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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills, by 
+James Johnstone
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills
+
+Author: James Johnstone
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2011 [EBook #37839]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project
+Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously
+made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                             MY EXPERIENCES
+                                   IN
+                       MANIPUR AND THE NAGA HILLS
+
+                              By the late
+                   Major-General SIR JAMES JOHNSTONE
+                                K.C.S.I.
+
+                      With an introductory memoir
+
+
+                              Illustrated
+
+
+                                 London
+                    Sampson Low, Marston and Company
+                                Limited
+                          St. Dunstan's House
+                    Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.
+                                  1896
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                               I DEDICATE
+
+                      THESE PAGES TO THE MEMORY OF
+
+                                My Wife,
+
+             WHO SHARED IN MANY OF MY LABOURS AND ANXIETIES
+                    IN MANIPUR, AND THE NAGA HILLS,
+          AND WHOSE SPIRIT INSPIRED ME IN MY LAST ENTERPRISE,
+                        AND WHO, HAD SHE LIVED,
+                 WOULD HAVE WRITTEN A BETTER RECORD OF
+                      OUR EXPERIENCES THAN I HAVE
+                            BEEN ABLE TO DO.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
+
+
+When I first brought my wife out to India in 1873, I was struck by
+the comments she made on things which had so long been part of my
+daily life. I had almost ceased to observe them. Every day she noted
+something new, and her diary was so interesting that I advised her
+to write a book on her "First Impressions of India," and she meant
+to do so, but never had time. Had she lived, this would have been a
+pleasure to her, but it was otherwise ordained. I feel now that I am
+in some way carrying out her wishes, by attempting a description of
+our life in India, though I am fully sensible that I cannot hope to
+achieve the pleasant chatty style in which she excelled.
+
+I have also striven to give a fair record of the events with which I
+was connected; and perhaps, as they include a description of a state
+of things that has passed away for ever, they may not be devoid of
+interest. I am one of those old-fashioned Anglo-Indians who still
+believe in personal government, a system by which we gained India,
+solidified our rule, and made ourselves fairly acceptable to the
+people whom we govern. I believe the machine-like system which we have
+introduced and are endeavouring to force into every corner of India,
+till all personal influence is killed out, to be ill-adapted to the
+requirements of these Oriental races, and blighting in its effects. Not
+one native chief has adopted it in its integrity, which is in itself
+a fair argument that it is distasteful to the native mind; and we may
+be assured that if we evacuated India to-morrow, personal rule would
+again make itself felt throughout the length and breadth of the land,
+and grow stronger every day. I have always striven to be a reformer,
+but a reformer building on the solid foundations that we already find
+everywhere in India. Wherever you go, if there is a semblance of
+native rule left, you find a system admirably adapted to the needs
+of the population, though very often grown over with abuses. Clear
+away these abuses, and add a little in the way of modern progress,
+but always building on the foundation you find ready to hand, and
+you have a system acceptable to all.
+
+We are wonderfully timid in sweeping away real abuses, for fear of
+hurting the feelings of the people; at the same time we weigh them
+down with unnecessary, oppressive, and worrying forms, and deluge the
+country with paper returns, never realising that these cause far more
+annoyance than would be felt at our making some radical change in a
+matter which, after all, affects only a minority. Take, for instance,
+the case of suttee, or widow-burning. It was argued for years that
+we could not put it down without causing a rebellion. What are the
+facts? A governor-general, blessed with moral courage in a great
+degree, determined to abolish the barbarous custom, and his edict
+was obeyed without a murmur. So it has been in many other cases,
+and so it will be wherever we have the courage to do the right
+thing. An unpopular tax would cause more real dissatisfaction than
+any interference with bad old customs, only adhered to from innate
+conservatism. The great principle on which to act is to do what
+is right, and what commends itself to common sense, and to try and
+carry the people with you. Do not let us have more mystery than is
+necessary; telling the plain truth is the best course; vacillation
+is fatal; the strongest officer is generally the most popular, and
+is remembered by the people long after he is dead and gone.
+
+Personal rule is doomed, and men born to be personal rulers and a
+blessing to the governed, are now harassed by the authorities till
+they give up in despair, and swim with the stream.
+
+The machine system did not gain India, and will not keep it for us;
+we must go back to a better system, or be prepared to relax our
+grasp, and give up the grandest work any nation ever undertook--the
+regeneration of an empire!
+
+The House of Commons has to answer for much. No Indian administration
+is safe from the interference of theorists. To-day it is opium that
+is attacked by self-righteous individuals, who see in the usual, and
+in most cases harmless, stimulant of millions, a crying evil; while
+they view with apparent complacency the expenditure of �120,000,000
+per annum on intoxicating liquors in England, and long columns in
+almost every newspaper recording brutal outrages on helpless women
+and children as the result.
+
+Then the military administration is attacked, and in pursuance of
+another chimera, an iniquitous bill is forced on the Government
+of India calculated to produce results, which will probably sap
+the efficiency of our army at a critical moment. So it goes on,
+and it is hardly to be wondered at that the authorities in India
+give up resistance in sheer disgust, knowing all the while that,
+as the French say, le deluge must come after them.
+
+It may be said, "What has all this to do with Manipur and the Naga
+Hills?" Nothing perhaps directly, but indirectly a great deal. The
+system which I decry carries its evil influence everywhere, and Manipur
+has suffered from it. I describe the Naga Hills and Manipur as they
+were in old days. I strove hard for years to hold the floods back from
+this little State and to preserve it intact, while doing all I could
+to introduce reforms. Now the floods have overwhelmed it, and if it
+rises again above them it will not be the Manipur that I knew and
+loved. May it, in spite of my doubts and fears, be a better Manipur.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    Page
+
+Introduction                                                         xix
+
+
+Chapter I.
+
+    Arrival in India--Hospitable friends--The Lieut.-Governor--Journey
+    to the Naga Hills--Nigriting--Golaghat--A panther reminiscence--Hot
+    springs--A village dance--Dimapur--My new abode                    1
+
+
+Chapter II.
+
+    Samagudting--Unhealthy quarters--A callous widower--Want of
+    water--Inhabitants of the Naga Hills--Captain Butler--Other
+    officials--Our life in the wilds--A tiger carries off the
+    postman--An Indian forest--Encouragement                          12
+
+
+Chapter III.
+
+    Historical events connected with Manipur and the Naga
+    Hills--Different tribes--Their religion--Food and customs         22
+
+
+Chapter IV.
+
+    Value of keeping a promise--Episode of Sallajee--Protection
+    given to small villages, and the large one defied--"Thorough"
+    Government of India's views--A plea for Christian education in
+    the Naga Hills                                                    37
+
+
+Chapter V.
+
+    Visit Dimapur--A terrible storm--Cultivation--Aggression by
+    Konoma--My ultimatum--Konoma submits--Birth of a son--Forest
+    flowers--A fever patient--Proposed change of station--Leave
+    Naga Hills--March through the forest--Depredation by
+    tigers--Calcutta--Return to England                               45
+
+
+Chapter VI.
+
+    Return to India--Attached to Foreign Office--Imperial assemblage at
+    Delhi--Almorah--Appointed to Manipur--Journey to Shillong--Cherra
+    Poojee--Colonel McCulloch--Question of ceremony                   54
+
+
+Chapter VII.
+
+    Start for Manipur--March over the hills--Lovely scenery--View of
+    the valley--State reception--The Residency--Visitors              60
+
+
+Chapter VIII.
+
+    Visit the Maharajah--His ministers--Former revolutions--Thangal
+    Major                                                             69
+
+
+Chapter IX.
+
+    Manipur--Early history--Our connection with it--Ghumbeer
+    Singh--Burmese war                                                78
+
+
+Chapter X.
+
+    Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of him--Nur Singh and
+    attempt on his life--McCulloch--His wisdom and generosity--My
+    establishment--Settlement of frontier dispute                     88
+
+
+Chapter XI.
+
+    My early days in Manipur--The capital--The inhabitants--Good
+    qualities of Manipuris--Origin of valley of Manipur--Expedition
+    to the Naga Hills--Lovely scenery--Attack on Kongal Tannah by
+    Burmese--Return from Naga Hills--Visit Kongal Tannah              95
+
+
+Chapter XII.
+
+    Discussions as to new Residency--Its completion--Annual
+    boat-races--Kang-joop-kool--Daily work--Dealings with the
+    Durbar                                                           104
+
+
+Chapter XIII.
+
+    Violent conduct of Prince Koireng--A rebuke--Service
+    payment--Advantages of Manipuri system--Customs
+    duties--Slavery--Releasing slaves--Chowbas' fidelity--Sepoy's
+    kindness to children--Visit to the Yoma range                    112
+
+
+Chapter XIV.
+
+    An old acquaintance--Monetary crisis--A cure for breaking
+    crockery--Rumour of human sacrifices--Improved postal
+    system--Apricots--Mulberries--A snake story--Search after
+    treasure--Another snake story--Visit to Calcutta--Athletics--Ball
+    practice--A near shave                                           122
+
+
+Chapter XV.
+
+    Spring in Manipur--Visit Kombang--Manipuri orderlies--Parade of
+    the Maharajah's Guards--Birth of a daughter--An evening walk in
+    the capital--Polo--Visit to Cachar                               131
+
+
+Chapter XVI.
+
+    Punishment of female criminals--A man saved from execution--A Kuki
+    executed--Old customs abolished--Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh--The
+    Manipuri army--Effort to re-organise Manipur Levy--System
+    of rewards--"Nothing for nothing"--An English school--Hindoo
+    festivals--Rainbows--View from Kang-joop-kool                    138
+
+
+Chapter XVII.
+
+    Mr. Damant and the Naga Hills--Rumours on which I act--News
+    of revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant's murder--Maharajah's
+    loyalty--March to the relief of Kohima--Relief of Kohima--Incidents
+    of siege--Heroism of ladies--A noble defence                     147
+
+
+Chapter XVIII.
+
+    Restoring order and confidence--Arrival of Major Evans--Arrival
+    of Major Williamson--Keeping open communication--Attack on
+    Phesama--Visit to Manipur--General Nation arrives--Join him at
+    Suchema--Prepare to attack Konoma--Assault of Konoma             161
+
+
+Chapter XIX.
+
+    Konoma evacuated--Journey to Suchema for provisions and ammunition,
+    and return--We march to Suchema with General--Visit Manipur--Very
+    ill--Meet Sir Steuart Bayley in Cachar--His visit to Manipur--Grand
+    reception--Star of India--Chussad attack on Chingsow--March to
+    Kohima and back--Reflections on Maharajah's services--Naga Hills
+    campaign overshadowed by Afghan war                              175
+
+
+Chapter XX.
+
+    Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad outrage--Interesting
+    country--Rhododendrons--Splendid forest--Chingsow and the
+    murders--Chattik--March back across the hills                    182
+
+
+Chapter XXI.
+
+    Saving a criminal from execution--Konoma men visit me--A
+    terrible earthquake--Destruction wrought in the capital--Illness
+    of the Maharajah--Question as to the succession--Arrival of
+    the Queen's warrant--Reception by the Maharajah--The Burmese
+    question                                                         190
+
+
+Chapter XXII.
+
+    March to Mao and improvement of the road--Lieutenant
+    Raban--Constant troubles with Burmah--Visit to Mr. Elliott
+    at Kohima--A tiger hunt made easy--A perilous adventure--Rose
+    bushes--Brutal conduct of Prince Koireng--We leave Manipur for
+    England                                                          198
+
+
+Chapter XXIII.
+
+    Return to Manipur--Revolution in my absence--Arrangements for
+    boundary--Survey and settlement--Start for Kongal--Burmese will
+    not act--We settle boundary--Report to Government--Return to
+    England                                                          208
+
+
+Chapter XXIV.
+
+    Return to India--Visit to Shillong--Manipur again--Cordial
+    reception--Trouble with Thangal Major--New arts introduced       216
+
+
+Chapter XXV.
+
+    A friend in need--Tour round the valley--Meet the Chief
+    Commissioner--March to Cachar--Tour through the Tankhool
+    country--Metomi Saram�ttie--Somrah--Terrace cultivators--A
+    dislocation--Old quarters at Kongal Tannah--Return to the valley
+    --A sad parting                                                  223
+
+
+Chapter XXVI.
+
+    More trouble with Thangal Major--Tit-for-tat--Visit to the Kubo
+    valley--A new Aya Pooiel--Journey to Shillong--War is declared--A
+    message to Kendat to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation agents--Anxiety
+    as to their fate--March to Mao                                   236
+
+
+Chapter XXVII.
+
+    News from Kendat--Mr. Morgan and his people safe--I determine to
+    march to Moreh Tannah--March to Kendat--Arrive in time to save
+    the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents--Visit of the Woon--Visit
+    to the Woon                                                      244
+
+
+Chapter XXVIII.
+
+    People fairly friendly--Crucifixion--Carelessness of Manipuris--I
+    cross the Chindwin--Recross the Chindwin--Collect provisions--Erect
+    stockades and fortify our position--Revolt at Kendat--We assume the
+    offensive--Capture boats and small stockades--Revolt put down--Woon
+    and Ruckstuhl rescued--Steamers arrive and leave                 251
+
+
+Chapter XXIX.
+
+    Mischief done by departure of steamers--Determine to establish the
+    Woon at Tamu--The country quieting down--Recovery of mails--Letter
+    from the Viceroy--Arrive at Manipur--Bad news--I return to
+    Tamu--Night march to Pot-th�--An engagement--Wounded--Return to
+    Manipur--Farewell--Leave for England                             260
+
+
+Chapter XXX.
+
+Conclusion.
+
+    The events of 1890-1                                             271
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY MEMOIR.
+
+
+These experiences were written in brief intervals of leisure, during
+the last few months of the author's busy life, which was brought to
+a sudden close before they were finally revised. Only last March when
+his nearest relations met at Fulford Hall to take leave of the eldest
+son of the house, before he sailed for India, the manuscript was still
+incomplete, and Sir James read some part of it aloud. His health had
+suffered greatly from over-fatigue in the unhealthy parts of India,
+in which his lot had been chiefly cast, but it was now quite restored
+and a prolonged period of usefulness seemed before him.
+
+Improvements on the farms on his estate, a church within reach of his
+cottagers, to be built as a memorial to his late wife, and the hope
+of being once more employed abroad, probably as a colonial governor,
+were all plans for the immediate future, while the present was
+occupied with the magisterial and other business (including lectures
+on history in village institutes), which fill up so much of an English
+country gentleman's life. He had saved nothing in India. What the
+Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal wrote in 1872 of his early work at
+Keonjhur, applied to everything else he subsequently undertook:
+"Captain Johnstone's schools, twenty in number, continue to flourish,
+attracting an average attendance of 665 children. Captain Johnstone's
+efforts to improve the crops and cattle of Keonjhur have before been
+remarked by the Lieutenant-Governor. His sacrifices for this end and
+for his charge generally, are, His Honour believes, almost unique." [1]
+But in 1881 by the death of his late father's elder brother, he
+inherited the Fulford estate on the boundaries of Worcestershire and
+Warwickshire, as well as Dunsley Manor in Staffordshire. The old Hall
+at Fulford, a strongly built, black and white, half-timbered erection
+of some centuries back, had been pulled down a few years before,
+and Sir James built the present house close to the old site. It was
+here that he was brought back in a dying state on June 13th, 1895,
+about 10 A.M., after riding out of the grounds only ten minutes
+before, full of life and energy. No one witnessed what occurred;
+he was a splendid horseman, but there was evidence that the horse,
+always inclined to be restive, had taken fright on passing a cottager's
+gate and tried to turn back, and that, as its master's whip was still
+firmly grasped in his hand, there had been a struggle.
+
+He was engaged to assist the next day at the annual meeting of the
+Conservative and Unionist Association at Stratford-on-Avon. The Marquis
+of Hertford, who presided, when announcing the catastrophe in very
+feeling terms, spoke of the excellent work that Sir James Johnstone
+had done for the Unionist cause in Warwickshire. At Wythall Church
+(of which he was warden) the Vicar alluded, the following Sunday, to
+"the striking example he had set of a devout and attentive worshipper."
+
+A retired official who had been acquainted with him in India for
+over thirty years, wrote on the same occasion to Captain Charles
+Johnstone, R.N.: "Your brother was a type of character not at all
+common, high-principled, fearless, just, with an overwhelming sense
+of duty, and restless spirit of adventure. It is by characters of
+his type, that our great empire has been created, and it is only if
+such types continue that we may look forward and hope that it will
+be maintained and extended."
+
+Although the family from which Sir James Johnstone sprang is of
+Scottish origin, his own branch of it had lived in Worcestershire
+and Warwickshire for nearly a century and a half. "It has taken a
+prominent part in the social and public life of the Midlands, and
+has produced several eminent physicians." [2] He was the eleventh in
+direct male descent from William Johnstone of Graitney, who received
+a charter of the barony of Newbie for "distinguished services" to
+the Scottish crown in 1541. A remnant of the old Scottish estates was
+inherited by his great-grandfather, Dr. James Johnstone, who died at
+Worcester in 1802, and who, being the fourth son of his parents, had
+left Annandale at the age of twenty-one to settle in Worcestershire
+as a physician, but who always kept up his relations with Scotland,
+and meant to return there in his old age. His anxiety to secure this
+estate--Galabank--in the male line, really defeated his purpose; for
+he bequeathed it to his then unmarried younger son, the late Dr. John
+Johnstone, F.R.S., whose daughter now possesses it, to the exclusion of
+his elder sons who seemed likely to leave nothing but daughters. One
+of these elder sons was Sir James's grandfather, the late Dr. Edward
+Johnstone of Edgbaston Hall, who had married the heiress of Fulford,
+but was left a widower in 1800. Dr. Edward Johnstone was remarried
+in 1802 to Miss Pearson of Tettenhall, and of their two sons, the
+younger, James, born in 1806, practised for many years as a physician,
+and was President of the British Medical Association when it met
+in Birmingham in 1856. His eldest son, the subject of this notice,
+was born in a house now pulled down in the Old Square, Birmingham,
+on February 9th, 1841. Brought up in the midst of the large family of
+brothers and sisters, whose childhood was passed between their home
+in the Old Square and their grandfather's residence at Edgbaston Hall,
+where they spent the summer and autumn: he used also to look back with
+particular pleasure on his visits to his maternal grandfather's country
+house, where he first mounted a pony. His mother was his instructor,
+except occasional lessons from the Rev. T. Price, till at the age of
+nine he entered King Edward's Classical School, of which his father
+was a governor. The head master at that time (1850), was the Rev. (now
+Archdeacon) E. H. Gifford, D.D., and in the school list for 1852,
+Johnstone senior is placed next in the same class to Mackenzie (now
+Sir Alex.), the present Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal.
+
+In 1855, young James Johnstone went to a military college in Paris,
+which was swept away before 1870, with a great part of the older
+portion of the city. After a year and a half in Paris he was
+transferred to the Royal Naval and Military Academy, Gosport, and
+a few months later qualified for one of the last cadetships given
+under the old East India Company. Without delay he proceeded to
+India, which was at that period distracted by the Indian Mutiny,
+so that his regiment the 68th Bengal Native Infantry, consisted only
+of officers attached to different European regiments, or acting in a
+civil capacity. With the 73rd (Queen's Regiment) he marched through
+the country, and was actively employed in the suppression of the
+insurgents, after which he was stationed for some time in Assam where
+he also saw active service. There, in 1862, he met with the accident
+he alludes to on pp. 3 and 20. It came in the course of his duty, as
+the population of a village which had been disarmed had sent to the
+nearest military post to ask for assistance against a tiger (panther),
+causing destruction in the neighbourhood; but he was very much hurt,
+and the weakening effects of this accident, seem to have predisposed
+him to attacks of the malaria fever of the district, from which he
+frequently suffered afterwards.
+
+His next post was at Keonjhur, where there had been an outbreak
+against the Rajah by some of the hill-tribes and the chief insurgent
+had been executed. Lieutenant Johnstone was appointed special
+assistant to the superintendent of the Tributary Mehals at Cuttack,
+in whose official district Keonjhur lies. The Superintendent wrote
+to the Lieutenant-Governor (Sir William Grey) of Bengal in 1869:
+"Captain Johnstone has acquired their full confidence, and hopes
+very shortly to be able to dispense with the greater part of the
+Special Police Force posted at Keonjhur. He appears to take very
+great interest in his work, and is sanguine of success." The same
+official when enclosing Captain Johnstone's first report, wrote:
+"It contains much interesting matter regarding the people, and shows
+that he has taken great pains in bringing them into the present
+peaceable and apparently loyal condition," and a little further on,
+when describing an interview he had with the Rajah: "From the manner
+in which he spoke of Captain Johnstone, I was exceedingly glad to
+find that the most good feeling exists between them." He also adds,
+apropos of a recommendation that the Government should pay half the
+expense of the special commission instead of charging it all on the
+native state: "Nearly one half of Captain Johnstone's time has been
+occupied in Khedda (catching wild elephants) operations, which have
+been successful and profitable to Government, and totally unconnected
+with that officer's duty in Keonjhur." [3]
+
+A year later the superintendent (T. E. Ravenshaw, Esq.) reports:
+"Captain Johnstone, with his usual liberality and tact, has clothed
+two thousand naked savages, and has succeeded in inducing them to wear
+the garments;" and again, "Captain Johnstone's success in establishing
+schools has been most marked, and there are now nine hundred children
+receiving a rudimentary education.... Captain Johnstone has very
+correctly estimated the political importance of education and
+enlightenment among the hill people, and it is evident that he has
+worked most judiciously and successfully in this direction." And again:
+"In the matter of improvement of breed of cattle, Captain Johnstone
+has, at his own expense, formed a valuable herd of sixty cows and
+several young bulls ready to extend the experiment.... Captain
+Johnstone's experiments on rice and flax cultivation have been
+very successful" (two years later this is attributed to his having
+superintended them himself). The official report sums up, "Of Captain
+Johnstone I cannot speak too highly; his management has been efficient,
+and he has exercised careful and constant supervision over the Rajah
+and his estate, in a manner which has resulted in material improvement
+to both."
+
+Subsequently, when Captain Johnstone was on leave in England, the
+Keonjhur despatches show that he sent directions that the increase of
+his herd of cattle should be distributed gratis among the natives. They
+were at first afraid to accept them, hardly believing in the gift.
+
+"Keonjhur," says the Government report of India for 1870-1, "continues
+under the able administration of Captain Johnstone, who, it will be
+remembered, was mainly instrumental in restoring the country to quiet
+three years ago."
+
+Captain Johnstone was too good a classic not to remember the Roman
+method of conquering and subduing a province; and as far as funds
+would permit, he opened out roads and cleared away jungle. But he
+suffered again from the malaria so prevalent in the forest districts
+of India, and took three months' furlough in 1871, which meant just
+one month in England. Although he had lost his father in May, 1869,
+and his absence from home that year gave him some extra legal expense,
+he would not quit his work till he could leave it in a satisfactory
+state; yet the Lieut.-Governor of Bengal (Sir George Campbell) twice
+referred to this furlough as being "most unfortunate," particularly
+as it had to be repeated within a few months. The superintendent
+wrote from Cuttack in his yearly report to the Lieut.-Governor:
+"Captain Johnstone's serious and alarming illness necessitated his
+taking sick leave to England in August, 1871. He had only a short
+time previously returned from furlough, and with health half restored,
+over-tasked his strength in carrying out elephant Khedda work in the
+deadly jungles of Moburdhunj."
+
+In the spring of 1872, Captain Johnstone was married to Emma Mary
+Lloyd, with whose family his own had a hereditary friendship of
+three generations. Her father was at that time M.P. for Plymouth,
+and living at Moor Hall in Warwickshire. Their first child, James,
+died of bronchitis when six months old, and they returned to India
+a short time afterwards, at which point the experiences begin. Their
+second child, Richard, was born at Samagudting, and is now a junior
+officer in the battalion of the 60th King's Own Royal Rifles, quartered
+in India. The third son, Edward, was born at Dunsley Manor, and two
+younger children in Manipur.
+
+Manipur, to which Colonel Johnstone was appointed in 1877, was
+called by one of the Indian secretaries the Cinderella among
+political agencies. "They'll never," he said, "get a good man to
+take it." "Well," was the reply, "a good man has taken it now." The
+loneliness, the surrounding savages, and the ill-feeling excited by
+the Kubo valley (which so late as 1852 is placed in Manipur, in maps
+published in Calcutta) having been made over to Burmah, were among the
+reasons of its unpopularity. Colonel Johnstone's predecessor, Captain
+Durand (now Sir Edward) draws a very glaring picture in his official
+report for 1877, of the Maharajah's misgovernment; the wretched
+condition of the people, and the most unpleasant position of the
+Political Agent, whom he described as "in fact a British officer under
+Manipur surveillance.... He is surrounded by spies.... If the Maharajah
+is not pleased with the Political Agent he cannot get anything--he is
+ostracised. From bad coarse black atta, which the Maharajah sells him
+as a favour, to the dhoby who washes his clothes, and the Nagas who
+work in his garden, he cannot purchase anything." Yet, well knowing all
+this, Colonel Johnstone readily accepted the post, confident that with
+his great knowledge of Eastern languages, and of Eastern customs and
+modes of thought, he should be able to bring about a better state of
+things, both as regarded the oppressed inhabitants and the permanent
+influence of the representative of the British Government. Whether
+this confidence was justified, the following pages will show.
+
+
+                                                                 EDITOR.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR AND THE NAGA HILLS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Arrival in India--Hospitable friends--The
+    Lieutenant-Governor--Journey to the Naga
+    Hills--Nigriting--Golaghat--A Panther reminiscence--Hot springs--A
+    village dance--Dimapur--My new abode.
+
+
+I left England with my wife on November 13th, 1873, and after an
+uneventful voyage, reached Bombay, December 9th. We proceeded at once
+to Calcutta, where some of my old servants joined me, including two
+bearers, Seewa and Keptie, wild Bhooyas from the Cuttack Tributary
+Mehals, whom I had trained, and who had been with me for years in
+all my wanderings, in that wild territory. Thanks to the kindness of
+my friends the Bernards (now Sir C. and Lady Bernard), we spent only
+a day at an hotel, and remained under their hospitable roof till we
+left Calcutta.
+
+My old appointment in Keonjhur had been abolished, and I had to wait
+till another was open to me. I had several interviews on the subject
+with the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, Sir G. Campbell. Finally it
+was decided that I should go to Assam (then about to be made into a
+Chief Commissionership) and act as Political Agent of the Naga Hills,
+while the permanent official--Captain Butler--was away in the Interior,
+and subsequently on leave. I knew a large part of the district well,
+as one of the most malarious in India, and when asked if I would take
+the appointment, said, "Yes, I have no objection, but just hint to
+the Lieutenant-Governor that unless he wants to kill me off, it may
+be better policy to send me elsewhere, as the Medical Board in London
+said, I must not go to a malarious district, after the experience
+I have had of it in Keonjhur." The Secretary conveyed my hint, and
+when I next saw him, said, "The Lieutenant-Governor says, that is
+all stuff and nonsense." Later on Sir G. Campbell asked if my wife
+would go with me. I quietly replied that she would go anywhere with me.
+
+Finally, on December 30th, we left Calcutta, and after a night in the
+train, embarked in one of the I. G. S. N. Co.'s steamers at Goalundo,
+for Nigriting on the Burrhampooter, where we had to land for the Naga
+Hills. The steamers of those days, were not like the well-appointed
+mail boats now in use. The voyage was long, the steamers uncomfortable,
+and the company on board anything but desirable. All the same, the
+days passed pleasantly, while we slowly wended our way up the mighty
+river, amid lovely and interesting scenery all new to my wife, to
+whom I pointed out the different historic spots as they came in view.
+
+We halted at Gowhatty for the night, and early in the morning I swam
+across the river for the second time in my life, a distance of about
+three miles, as the current carried me in a slanting direction.
+
+At last we reached Nigriting, and were landed on a dry sandbank five
+or six miles from the celebrated tea gardens of that name, and the
+nearest habitations. Fortunately, I had brought a tent and all things
+needful for a march; and my servants, well accustomed to camp life,
+soon pitched it and made us comfortable, and my wife was charmed with
+her first experience. We had a message of welcome from Mr. Boyle,
+of Nigriting Factory, and the next day went to his house in canoes,
+whence we set out for Golaghat.
+
+It was to Nigriting that I was carried for change of air nearly
+twelve years before, when, in April, 1862, I was desperately wounded
+in an encounter with a large panther near Golaghat, where I had been
+stationed. I then lived for a week or so in a grass hut on a high
+bank, and the fresh air made my obstinate wounds begin to heal. Thus it
+happened that all the people knew me well, and I was long remembered by
+the name of "Bagh� Khooah" literally the "tiger eaten," a name which I
+found was still familiar to every one. Loading our things on elephants,
+and having a pony for my wife, and a dandy (hill litter) in case she
+grew tired, we set off for Golaghat, and had a picnic luncheon on the
+way. How delightful are our first experiences of marching in India,
+even when we have, as in this case, to put up with some discomfort;
+the cool, crisp air in the morning; the good appetite that a ten-mile
+walk or ride gives; the feeling that breakfast has been earned, and
+finally breakfast itself; and such a good one. Where indeed but in
+India could we have a first-rate meal of three or four courses, and
+every dish hot, with no better appliances in the shape of a fireplace,
+than two or three clods of earth? Often have I had a dinner fit for
+a king, when heavy rain had been falling for hours, and there was no
+shelter for my men, but a tree with a sheet thrown over a branch.
+
+We breakfasted at a place called "Char Alle�" and the march being
+long (nearly twenty miles), the sun was low long before reaching
+Golaghat. As we passed some road coolies, I began a conversation with
+the old Tekla (overseer) in charge, and asked him if he could get me
+a few oranges. He said, "Oh no, they are all over." He then asked me
+how I came to speak Assamese so well. I said, "I have been in Assam
+before." He said, "Oh yes, there have been many sahibs in my time,"
+and he named several; "and then long ago there was a 'Bagh� Khooah'
+sahib, I wonder where he is now?" I looked at him and said, "Ami Bagh�
+Khooah" (I am the Bagh� Khooah). The old man gazed equally hard at
+me for a moment and then ran in front of me and made a most profound
+obeisance. Having done this, he smilingly said, "I think I can find
+you some oranges after all," and at once ran off, and brought me some
+for which he refused to take anything. The good old man walked about a
+mile farther before he wished me good-bye; and my wife and I went on,
+greatly pleased to find that I was so well remembered.
+
+We did not get to Golaghat till long after dark, and pitched our tent
+on the site of the lines of my old detachment, which I had commanded
+twelve years before. What a change! Trees that I had remembered as
+small, had grown large, and some that were planted since I left,
+already a fair size.
+
+In the morning we received a perfect ovation. People who had known me
+before, crowded to see me and pay their respects, many of them bringing
+their children born since I had left. All this was pleasant enough and
+greatly delighted my wife, but we had to proceed on our way, and it
+is always difficult to get one's followers to move from a civilised
+place, where there is a bazaar, into the jungle, and henceforth our
+road lay through jungle, the Nambor forest beginning about five miles
+from Golaghat. At last coolies to carry my wife arrived, and I sent
+her on in her "dandy" with her ayah, charging the bearers to wait
+for me at a village I well knew, called "Sipahee Hoikeeah." The men
+replied, "Hoi Deota" (Yes, deity [4]) and started. The elephants
+were a great difficulty, and it was some hours before I could get
+off, and even then some had not arrived. However, off I started,
+and hurried on to "Sipahee Hoikeeah" so as not to keep my wife
+waiting, but when I reached the spot, I found to my amazement that
+the village had ceased to exist, having, as I subsequently learned,
+been abandoned for fear of the Nagas. I hurried on in much anxiety,
+as my wife did not speak Hindoostani, and neither ayah nor bearers
+spoke English. At last I caught them up at the Nambor hot springs,
+called by natives the "Noonpoong" where we were to halt.
+
+
+
+------
+FIGURE
+
+Camping Out.
+
+[Page 6.
+------
+
+
+
+The Noonpoong is situated in a lovely spot amidst fine forest. The
+hot water springs out of the ground, at a temperature of 112 degrees
+and fills a small pool. It is similar in taste to the waters
+of Aix-la-Chapelle, and is highly efficacious in skin diseases,
+being resorted to even for the cure of severe leech bites, which
+are easily obtained from the land leech infesting all the forests
+of Assam. Fortunately some of our cooking things, with chairs and a
+table arrived, also a mattress, but no bed and no tent. We waited
+till 9 P.M., and finding that no more elephants came up, I made
+up a bed for my wife on the ground under a table, to shelter her
+from the dew, but while sitting by the camp fire for a last warm,
+we heard the noise of an elephant, and saw one emerging from the
+forest. Fortunately he carried the tent which was quickly pitched,
+and we passed a comfortable night.
+
+The hot springs are not the only attraction of the neighbourhood, as
+about two miles off in the forest, there is a very pretty waterfall,
+not high, but the volume of water is considerable, and it comes down
+with a thundering sound heard for some distance. The natives call it
+the "phutta hil," literally "rent rock." The Nambor forest is noted
+for its Nahor or Nagessur trees (Mesua Ferma) a handsome tree, the
+heart of which is a fine red wood, very hard and very heavy, and quite
+impervious to the attacks of white ants. Europeans call it the iron
+wood of Assam. It is very plentiful in parts of the forest between
+the Noonpoong and Golaghat, and also grows in the lowlands of Manipur.
+
+The next morning we set out for Borpathar, a village with a fine sheet
+of cultivation on the banks of the Dunseree, and took up our quarters
+in the old blockhouse, which had been converted into a comfortable rest
+house. Here again we received a perfect ovation, the people, headed by
+my old friend Hova Ram, now promoted to a Mouzadar, coming in a body,
+with fruit and eggs, etc., to pay their respects. The population had
+sadly diminished since my early days, the people having in many cases
+fled the country for fear of Naga raids.
+
+The march having been a short one, all our baggage had time to come
+up. In the evening the girls of the village entertained us with one
+of their national dances, a very pretty and interesting sight. After
+a good night's rest we again started, our march lying through the
+noble forest, where buttressed trees formed an arch over the road,
+showing plainly that Gothic architecture was an adaptation from
+nature. I had never marched along the road since it was cleared; but
+I was there in 1862, in pursuit of some Naga raiders, when it would
+have been impassable, but for elephant and rhinoceros tracks. Even
+then I was struck by its great beauty, and now it was a fairly good
+cold weather track.
+
+We halted at Deo Panee, then at Hurreo Jan, and Nowkatta, and on the
+fourth day reached Dimapur, where we found a comfortable rest house,
+on the banks of a fine tank about two hundred yards square. This,
+with many others near it, spoke of days of civilisation that had long
+since passed away, before the Naga drove the Cacharee from the hills he
+now inhabits, and from the rich valley of the Dunseree. Near Dimapur
+we passed a Meekir hut built on posts ten or twelve feet high, and
+with a notched log resting against it, at an angle of about seventy
+degrees by way of a staircase, up which a dog ran like a squirrel
+at our approach. The Meekirs occupy some low hill ranges between the
+Naga hills and the Burrhampooter.
+
+The country round Dimapur is exceedingly rich, and everywhere bears
+the marks of having been thickly populated. It is well supplied
+with artificial square tanks, some much larger than the one already
+referred to, and on the opposite bank of the river we crossed to reach
+our halting place, are the remains of an old fortified city. Mounds
+containing broken pottery made with the wheel, abound, though the
+neighbouring tribes have forgotten its use. At Dimapur, in those days,
+there were three or four Government elephants and a few shops kept by
+"Khyahs," an enterprising race of merchants from Western India.
+
+The ruined city is worth describing. It was surrounded originally by
+solid brick walls twelve feet in height and six in thickness, the
+bricks admirably made and burned. The walls enclosed a space seven
+hundred yards square; it was entered by a Gothic archway, and not far
+off had a gap in the wall, said to have been made for cattle to enter
+by. Inside were tanks, some lined with brick walls, and with brick
+steps leading to the water. Though I carefully explored the interior,
+I never saw any other traces of brickwork, except perhaps a platform;
+but I found one or two sacrificial stones, for offerings of flowers,
+water and oil. One corner of the surrounding wall had been cut away
+by the river. The enclosure is covered with forest. Near the gateway
+are some huge monoliths, one eighteen feet in height. All are covered
+with sculpture, and some have deep grooves cut in the top, as if to
+receive beams. It is difficult to conjecture what they were brought
+there for, and how they were transported, as the nearest rocks from
+which they could have been cut, are at least ten miles away. If the
+Assam-Bengal Railway passes near Dimapur as is, I believe, arranged,
+this interesting old city wall will probably be used as a quarry for
+railway purposes, and soon none of it will remain. Alas, for Vandalism!
+
+History tells us little about the origin of Dimapur, but probably it
+was once a centre of Cacharee civilisation, and as the Angami Nagas
+advanced, the city wall was built, so as to afford a place of refuge
+against sudden raids. It is a strange sight to see the relics of a
+forgotten civilisation, in the midst of a pathless forest.
+
+On our march up, we frequently came upon the windings of the river
+Dunseree. At Nowkatta it runs parallel for a time with the road, and
+we took our evening walk on its dry sandbanks, finding many recent
+traces of tigers and wild elephants. From that time till we finally
+left the hills, the roar of tigers and the trumpeting of elephants
+were such common sounds, that we ceased to pay attention to them, and
+my wife, though naturally timid, became devoted to the wild solitude
+of our life.
+
+At Dimapur we enjoyed the luxury of fresh milk, which, of course,
+the forest did not supply. The night was delightfully cold, and the
+next morning crisp and invigorating, and we set off at an early hour,
+for our last march into Samagudting.
+
+For the first eight miles our road was through a level forest country,
+with the exception of a piece of low-lying grass land, and at a place
+called Nichu Guard the ascent of the hill commenced. This entrance of
+the gorge through which the Diphoo Panee river enters the low lands is
+very beautiful, the stream rushing out from the hills over a pebbly
+bottom, and it was a favourite encamping ground for us in our later
+marches. Now, we had not time to halt, so hurried on. The road up the
+hill was in fair condition for men and elephants, but did not admit
+of wheeled traffic, had there been any carts to use. We accomplished
+the ascent, a distance of four miles, in about two hours, obtaining
+several lovely views of the boundless forest, on our way.
+
+The vegetation on the hill itself had been much injured by the
+abominable practice hillmen have, of clearing a fresh space every two
+or three years, and deserting it for another, when the soil has been
+exhausted. This never gives it time to recover. At last we reached
+the summit, and took possession of the Political Agent's house, a
+large bungalow, built of grass and bamboo, the roof being supported by
+wooden posts, on the highest point of the hill. A glance showed me that
+the posts were nearly eaten through by white ants, and that the first
+high wind would level it with the ground. It had been built by a man
+who never intended to stay, and who only wanted it to last his time.
+
+Later in the day, I took over the charge from Mr. Coombs, who was
+acting till my arrival, and thus became, for the time, chief of the
+district. My staff consisted of Mr. Needham, Assistant Political Agent,
+and Mr. Cooper, in medical charge, the usual office establishment,
+and one hundred and fifty military police. Most of these, together with
+Captain Butler, for whom I was acting, were away in the Interior with
+a survey party. Mr. Coombs left in a day or two, and I then occupied
+his bungalow lower down the hill, and in a more exposed position, so
+as to allow of the larger house being rebuilt. Besides the Government
+establishment, we had a fair-sized Naga village on the hill, and
+just below the Political Agent's house. These people had long been
+friendly to us, and were willing, for a large recompense, to do all
+sorts of odd jobs, being entirely free from the caste prejudices of
+our Hindoo and degenerate Mussulman fellow-subjects.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Samagudting--Unhealthy quarters--A callous widower--Want of
+    water--Inhabitants of the Naga Hills--Captain Butler--Other
+    officials--Our life in the wilds--A tiger carries off the
+    postman--An Indian forest--Encouragement.
+
+
+My first impressions of Samagudting, were anything but favourable. It
+was eminently a "make-shift place." It had been occupied by us as
+a small outpost, from time to time, between 1846 and 1851, but it
+was never fit for a permanent post of more than twenty-five men,
+as the water supply was bad, there being no springs, and only a few
+water holes which were entirely dependent on the uncertain rainfall. A
+small tank had been constructed, but it was 500 feet below the summit,
+so that water was sold at an almost prohibitive rate. All articles
+of food were scarce, dear and bad, wood was enormously dear, and to
+crown all, the place was unhealthy and constantly enveloped in fog.
+
+Samagudting [5] ought never to have been occupied, and would not
+have been, had the Government taken ordinary precautions to verify
+the too roseate reports of an officer who wished to see it adopted
+as the headquarters of a new district, as a speedy road to promotion,
+and subsequent transfer to a more favoured appointment. The report in
+question which, among other things, mentioned the existence of springs
+of water, that existed only in imagination, having once been accepted
+by the authorities, and a large expenditure incurred, it became a
+very invidious task for future Political Agents to unmask the affair,
+and proclaim the extreme unsuitability of Samagudting for a station.
+
+Many other good and healthy sites were available, and I believe that
+our dealings with the Nagas were greatly retarded, by the adoption
+of such an unsuitable post. As it was, having made our road over the
+hill, it was necessary to climb an ascent of over two thousand feet,
+and an equal descent, before entering the really important portion
+of the Angami Naga country. I at once saw that the right entrance
+lay by the Diphoo Panee Gorge, and I recommended its adoption. I
+began to make this road during the Naga Hills Campaign of 1879-80,
+and it has since been regularly used.
+
+Having said all that there was to say against Samagudting, it is
+only fair to mention its good points. First, though never so cold in
+the winter, as the plains, the temperature was never so high in the
+hot and rainy seasons; and when the weather was fine, it was very
+enjoyable. The views from the hill were magnificent. To the south,
+the Burrail range, from which a broad and undulating valley divided
+us. To the west, a long stretch of hills and forests. To the east,
+the valley of the Dunseree, bordered by the Rengma and Lotah Naga
+hills, a vast forest, stretching as far as the eye could reach,
+with here and there a large patch of high grass land, one of which
+many miles in extent, was the Rengma Putha, a grand elephant catching
+ground in old times, where many a noble elephant became a victim to
+the untiring energy of the Bengali elephant phandaits or noosers,
+from the Morung. [6] To the north, the view extended over a pathless
+forest, the first break being the Doboka Hills. Behind these, a long
+bank of mist showed the line of the Burrhampooter, while on clear
+days in the cold weather, we might see the dark line of the Bhootan
+Hills, with the snowy peaks of the Himalayas towering above them. [7]
+Altogether, it was a sight once seen, never to be forgotten.
+
+
+
+------
+FIGURE
+
+Samagudting.
+
+[Page 14.
+------
+
+
+
+There was a footpath all round the hill, which, after a little
+alteration of level here and there, and a little repairing, where
+landslips had made it unsafe, was delightful for a morning or evening
+walk or ride. As my wife was fond of botany, she found a subject of
+never-ending interest in the many wild flowers, ferns, and climbing
+plants, and soon grew accustomed to riding along the edge of a dizzy
+precipice.
+
+Our private establishment consisted of ten or twelve servants in all,
+including a girl of the Kuki tribe, named Bykoout, who assisted the
+ayah; a very small establishment for India. Servants in Assam are
+bad and difficult to keep. Most of mine were imported, but, with the
+exception of my two faithful Bhooyas, Seewa and Keptie, and a syce
+(groom), by name Peewa, they were all soon corrupted, though some had
+been with me for years. Seewa once said to me, "The influence here
+is so bad, that we too shall be corrupted if we stay long." Seewa was
+quite a character. One day I got a letter from one of his relations,
+asking me to tell him that his wife was dead. I remembered her well;
+it was a love match, and she had run away with him. I feared it would
+be such a blow, that I felt quite nervous about telling him, and put it
+off till the evening, when, with a faltering voice, I broke the news as
+gently as I could. Instead of the outburst of grief I had looked for,
+he quietly asked, "What did she die of?" I said, "Fever." He replied,
+"Oh, yes, I thought it must be that. Will you write and see that all
+her property is made over to my brother, otherwise some of her people
+may steal it?"
+
+The state of things at Samagudting was very discouraging. I resented
+seeing the Government and the establishment being charged famine prices
+for everything, by the Nagas and Khyahs; also the general squalor which
+prevailed, and which I felt need not exist. It was the inheritance
+of the hand-to-mouth system in which everything had been commenced
+in early days. However, my wife set me an example of cheerfulness,
+and I made up my mind to remedy all the evils I could. First, the
+supply system was attacked, and I made arrangements with some old
+Khyah friends at Golaghat, to send up large supplies of rice and
+other kinds of food, and as the season advanced, I encouraged such of
+the military police as could be spared to take up land at Dimapur,
+and cultivate. For ourselves, I bought two cows at Borpathar, and
+established them at Nichu Guard, whence my gardener brought up the milk
+every day. In a short time we were more comfortable than could have
+been expected, and there was the additional satisfaction of seeing
+that the arrangements for cheaper food for the establishment proved
+successful. Water was the standing difficulty; we had to depend upon
+the caprice of the Naga water-carriers, and frequently my wife's
+bath, filled ready for the next morning, had to be emptied in the
+evening to provide water for cooking our evening meal! Sometimes I
+got clean water for drinking from the Diphoo Panee, otherwise what
+we had was as if it had been taken from a dirty puddle. The want
+of water prevented our having a garden near our house; we had a few
+hardy flowers, including the shoe-flower--a kind of hibiscus--roses,
+and passion-flower. Such vegetable-garden as we had was at Nichu Guard,
+where the soil was good, and water plentiful.
+
+Our house was watertight, and that was the best that could be said
+for it. It was thatched, with walls of split bamboos and strengthened
+by wooden posts; there were no glass windows, and the doors and
+shutters were of split bamboo tied together; the mud floor was also
+covered with thin split bamboos, and had to be swept constantly,
+as the dust worked through. We had one sitting-room, a bed-room,
+bath-room, pantry, and store-room, the latter full of rats. Snakes
+occasionally visited us, and a day or two after we had settled in,
+a cat rushed in while we were at breakfast, jumped on my knee and
+took away the meat from my plate, and bit and scratched me when I
+tried to catch her. My dressing-room was the shade of a tree outside,
+where I bathed Anglo-Indian camp fashion, substituting a large hollow
+bamboo for the usual mussuk, or skin of water.
+
+We arrived at Samagudting on January 23rd, 1874, and by the beginning
+of February felt quite old residents; hill-walking no longer tired me,
+and we had made acquaintance with all the Nagas of the village, and of
+many others, and were on quite friendly terms with "Jatsol�," the chief
+of Samagudting, a shrewd far-seeing man, with great force of character.
+
+I have mentioned the Burrail range, and the valley separating
+us. Besides Samagudting there were two other villages on our side,
+Sitekima, on the opposite bank of the Diphoo Panee Gorge, and
+Tesephima, on outlying spurs of Samagudting. I say Samagudting,
+as it has become the common appellation, but correctly speaking it
+should be Chumookodima.
+
+On the side of the Burrail facing us, were villages belonging to
+a tribe we call Kutcha Nagas, a race inferior in fighting power to
+the Angamis, but not unlike them in appearance, though of inferior
+physique. These villages were formerly inhabited by Cacharees. [8]
+
+On February 4th, I had a letter from Captain Butler, saying that
+he would be at Kohima in a day or two, and asking me to meet him
+there. He said that three of the police would be a sufficient escort. I
+accordingly took three men, and started on the 6th, marching to Piphima
+twenty-one miles, and the next morning another twenty-one into Kohima,
+two very hard marches. I was glad to renew my acquaintance with Butler,
+whom I had known when he first landed in India in 1861, and I was in
+Fort William, studying for my Hindustani examination. He was a fine
+manly fellow, admirably fitted to conduct an expedition, where pluck
+and perseverance were required. Here, I also met Dr. Brown, Political
+Agent of Manipur, and Captain (now Colonel) Badgley and Lieutenant
+(now Colonel C.B.) Woodthorpe, R.E., of the survey, also Lieutenant
+(now Major V.C.) Ridgeway, 44th N.I., I spent a pleasant evening,
+discussing various subjects with Captain Butler, and early on the
+8th started on my return journey.
+
+Captain Butler had done the whole forty-two miles into Samagudting
+in one day, and I determined to attempt it, and succeeded, though
+the last 2000 feet of ascent to my house was rather hard, tired as I
+was. My wife did not expect me, but I had arranged to fire three shots
+from my rifle as a signal, if I arrived at any time by night; this I
+did about 500 feet below my house, and I at once saw lanterns appear
+far above me, and in a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes, I was
+at my door. The sound of firing at 9 P.M. created quite a sensation
+among the weak-nerved ones on the hill, but it was good practice for
+the sentries to be kept on the alert. Ever after, three shots from
+a rifle or a revolver, were always my signal when I neared home,
+and often in after years were they heard in the dead of night, when
+I was thought to be miles away. My wife used to say that it kept the
+people in good order, never knowing when to expect me. I think it did.
+
+Life was never monotonous. I took long walks, after our morning
+walk round the hill, to inspect roads and bridges--a very important
+work. Then I attended Cutcherry (the court of justice) and heard cases,
+often with a loaded revolver in my hand, in case of any wild savage
+attempting to dispute my authority; then I finished off revenue work,
+of which there was little, and went home, had a cup of tea, visited
+hospitals and gaol, if I had not already done so; and afterwards
+went for an evening walk with my wife, round the hill or through
+the village.
+
+Sometimes duty took me to the plains, and we had a most delightful
+march to the Nambor hot springs, when I arranged to have a rest
+house built at Nowkatta, between Dimapur and Hurreo Jan. We reached
+the last place, just after a dreadful catastrophe had occurred. The
+rest house was raised on posts, six feet above the ground. One night
+when the man carrying the dak (post) had arrived from Borpathar,
+he hung up the letter bag under the house on a peg, and having had
+his evening meal, retired to rest in the house with one or two other
+travellers. Suddenly a huge tiger rushed up the steps, sprang through
+the open door, and seizing one of the sleepers, bounded off into
+the forest with him. One of my police who was there snatched up his
+rifle, pursued the tiger and fired, making him drop the man, but life
+was extinct, and when we arrived, there was a huge bloodstain on the
+floor, at least a yard long. Strange to say, the letter bag was on one
+occasion carried off by a tiger, but afterwards recovered, uninjured
+save by tooth marks. The policeman was promoted for his gallantry.
+
+The day after leaving Hurreo Jan, we met a party of Rengma Nagas coming
+to see me, with some little presents. They were the men who helped to
+kill the panther, that wounded me in 1862, [9] and they brought with
+them the son of one of their number, who was killed by the infuriated
+beast, a fine lad of fifteen; needless to say, that I rewarded these
+friendly people, whom I had not seen for twelve years. We halted a
+day or two at the springs, as I had to visit Golaghat on business,
+and unfortunately missed seeing a herd of wild elephants caught, a
+sight I had wished my wife to see. She did see the stockade, but the
+elephants had been already taken out. I hope farther on to describe
+an elephant drive.
+
+I do not know a more agreeable place to halt at than the hot springs
+in former days. In cold weather before the mosquitoes had arrived
+it was perfect rest. A little opening in the tall dark forest, in
+the centre some scrub jungle, including fragrant wild lemons and
+citrons, with the pool in the midst; a babbling stream flowed all
+round the opening, on the other side of which was a high bank. The
+bathing was delightful, and could be made quite private for ladies,
+by means of a cloth enclosure, well known to the Assamese by the name
+of "�r Kap�r." Then the occasional weird cry of the hoolook ape, and
+the gambols of numerous monkeys in the tall trees on the high bank,
+gave plenty of interest to the scene, had the general aspect of the
+place failed in its attractions.
+
+Soon after our return to headquarters, the survey party arrived
+from the interior of the hills, and after a few days' rest, departed
+for their summer quarters. Captain Butler then started for England,
+and Mr. Needham came in to Samagudting.
+
+Thus left in charge for a considerable period, I felt justified
+in doing more than I should have done, had my stay only been of
+a temporary nature, and I went most thoroughly into all questions
+connected with the hills and their administration. My long experience
+in charge of a native state full of wild hill tribes, and my personal
+knowledge of many of the Naga and other wild tribes of Assam (a
+knowledge that went back as far as 1860), were a great help to me,
+as I was consequently not new to the work. The eastern frontier had
+always been to my mind the most interesting field of work in India,
+and now it was for me to learn all I could.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Historical events connected with Manipur and the Naga
+    Hills--Different tribes--Their religion--Food and customs.
+
+
+Shortly after my arrival at Samagudting, I received a cheering letter,
+just when I most needed it, from my old friend Wynne, then Acting
+Foreign Secretary, saying, "Don't be too disappointed at not receiving
+a better appointment than the Naga Hills. You will have plenty of
+good work to do, and you will increase your already very extensive
+knowledge of wild tribes." It was the last letter I ever received
+from him, as cholera quickly carried him off, and I lost in him one
+of the kindest friends I ever had, one who had constantly interested
+himself in my work, and given me advice. Such a friend would have been
+invaluable now. Our position in the Naga Hills was an anxious one, and
+can only be properly realised by knowing the course of previous events.
+
+Our first acquaintance with the Nagas practically began in 1832, when
+Captain Jenkins and Lieutenant Pemberton escorted by Rajah Ghumbeer
+Singh's Manipur troops, forced a passage through the hills with a view
+to ascertaining if there were a practicable route into Assam. They
+came vi� Paptongmai and Samagudting to Mohong Deejood. There is every
+reason to believe that the Manipuris in former days did penetrate
+into the Naga Hills, and exacted tribute when they felt strong enough
+to do so. All the villages have Manipur names in addition to their
+own. But during the period of her decadence, just before and during
+the Burmese War of 1819-25, any influence Manipur may have possessed
+fell into abeyance. At that time it was re-asserted, and Ghumbeer Singh
+reduced several villages to submission, including the largest of all,
+Kohima, at which place he stood upon a stone and had his footprints
+sculptured on it, in token of conquest. This was set up in a prominent
+position, together with an upright stone bearing carved figures and
+an inscription.
+
+The Nagas greatly respected this stone and cleaned it from time to
+time. They opened a large trade with Manipur, and whenever a Manipuri
+visited a Naga village he was treated as an honoured guest, at a time
+when a British subject could not venture into the interior without
+risk of being murdered.
+
+Even up to the Naga Hills campaign of 1879-80, the Nagas regarded
+Manipur as the greater power of the two, because her conduct was
+consistent; if she threatened, she acted. One British subject after
+another might be murdered with impunity, but woe betide the village
+that murdered a subject of Manipur. A force of Manipuris was instantly
+despatched, the village was attacked, destroyed, and ample compensation
+exacted. The system answered well for Manipur; many of the Nagas began
+to speak Manipuri, and several villages paid an annual tribute. Still,
+up to 1851, we considered that we had some shadowy claim to the hills,
+though we never openly asserted it.
+
+I may as well give a short account of the different tribes inhabiting
+the Naga Hills district when I took charge. The oldest were--
+
+
+
+CACHAREES.
+
+Their origin is obscure. They are first met with in the north-east
+portion of the Assam Valley between the Muttuk country and Sudya. Round
+the last in the vast forests, there are numerous ruins ascribed by the
+people to the Cacharee Rajahs, built of substantial brickwork. I have
+not seen any sculptured stonework, but it may exist. The traditions
+give no clue to their original home, which was probably in Thibet. From
+the neighbourhood of Sudya they penetrated down the valley, leaving
+buildings and remnants of their tribes here and there, notably in
+the Durrung district. The main body were, for a time settled in the
+neighbourhood of Dimapur, and the country lying between it and Doboka,
+the Cachar district, but when they arrived or how long they stayed we
+have no means of ascertaining. They occupied the first two or three
+ranges of the Burrails and stoutly contested possession with the
+Naga invaders, and after they had been dispossessed made a gallant
+attempt to retrieve their affairs by an attack on Sephema. They
+entered the hills by the Diphoo gorge and constructed a paved road
+up to the neighbourhood of Sephema where they would probably have
+succeeded in their operations, but that the Sephema Nagas, skilful
+then as now, in the use of poison, poisoned the waters and destroyed
+a large portion of the invaders; the rest retreated to Dimapur, and
+eventually left the neighbourhood and settled in Cachar, to which they
+gave their name. There are still a good many Cacharees on the banks
+of the Kopiti, in the neighbourhood of Mohung-dee-jood. They are a
+fine hardy race, and in my time the Naga Hills police was largely
+recruited from them. Under Captain Butler they did good service,
+and would have gone anywhere when led by him. [10] The Cacharees were
+governed formerly by a race of despotic chiefs.
+
+
+
+KUKIS.
+
+The Kukis are a wandering race consisting of several tribes who
+have long been working up from the South. They were first heard
+of as Kukis, in Manipur, between 1830 and 1840; though tribes of
+the same race had long been subject to the Rajah of Manipur. The
+new immigrants began to cause anxiety about the year 1845, and
+soon poured into the hill tracts of Manipur in such numbers, as to
+drive away many of the older inhabitants. Fortunately, the political
+agent (at this time Lieutenant afterwards Colonel McCulloch) [11]
+was a man well able to cope with the situation. Cool and resolute,
+he at once realised and faced the difficulty. Manipur in those days,
+owing to intestine quarrels, could have done nothing, and the Rajah
+Nur Singh gladly handed over the management of the new arrivals to him.
+
+Seeing that the Kukis had been driven north by kindred but more
+powerful tribes, and that their first object was to secure land for
+cultivation; McCulloch, as they arrived, settled them down, allotting
+to them lands in different places according to their numbers, and where
+their presence would be useful on exposed frontiers. He advanced them
+large sums from his own pocket, assigning different duties to each
+chief's followers. Some were made into irregular troops, others were
+told off to carry loads according to the customs of the state. Thus
+in time many thousands of fierce Kukis were settled down as peaceful
+subjects of Manipur, and Colonel McCulloch retained supreme control
+over them to the last. So great was his influence, that he had only
+to send round his silver mounted dao (Burmese sword) as a kind of
+fiery cross, when all able-bodied men at once assembled at his summons.
+
+Colonel McCulloch's policy of planting Kuki settlements on exposed
+frontiers, induced the Government of Bengal to try a similar
+experiment, and a large colony of Kukis were settled in 1855 in
+the neighbourhood of Langting, to act as a barrier for North Cachar
+against the raids of the Angami Nagas. The experiment answered well
+to a certain extent, and would have answered better, had we been
+a little less timid. The Kukis are strictly monarchical, and their
+chiefs are absolutely despotic, and may murder or sell their subjects
+into slavery without a murmur of dissent. Their original home cannot
+be correctly ascertained, but there seem to be traces of them as
+far south as the Malay peninsula. They are readily distinguishable
+from the Nagas, and are braver men. Their women are often very fair,
+and wear their hair in a long thick plait down the back. The men are
+mostly copper coloured, and have often good features.
+
+
+
+KUTCHA NAGAS.
+
+The tribe we call Kutcha Nagas, very much resemble the Angamis,
+though of inferior physique. They are closely allied to the Nagas
+in Manipur, as well as to the Angamis, and probably were pushed in
+front of the latter from the Northern North-East, as the Kukis were
+forced in by the pressure of stronger tribes to their South. They
+have always been less warlike than their powerful neighbours, though
+they could be troublesome at times.
+
+
+
+ANGAMI NAGAS.
+
+A strong built, hardy, active race, the men averaging 5 feet 8 inches
+to 6 feet in height, and the women tall in proportion. In colour they
+vary from a rich brown to a yellowish or light brown. They have a
+manly independent bearing, and are bred up to war from their earliest
+years. While the Kukis are monarchists, the Nagas are republicans,
+and their Peumahs, or chiefs, are elected, and though they often
+have great influence, they are in theory, only primus inter pares,
+and are liable at any time to be displaced. Practically they often
+remain in office for years, and are greatly respected.
+
+Where the Angamis came from must be uncertain till the languages
+of our Eastern frontier are scientifically analysed. The late
+Mr. Damant, a man of great talent and powers of research, had
+a valuable paper regarding them in hand, but it perished in the
+insurrection of 1879. The probability is, that they came originally
+from the south-eastern corner of Thibet.
+
+Some of the Maories of New Zealand reminded me of the Angamis. The
+well-defined nose is a prominent characteristic of the last,
+as it is of some of the inhabitants of Polynesia. The people of
+Samagudting--that is, the adults in 1874--told me that they had come
+from the north-east, and were the seventh generation that had been
+there. When they first occupied their village, the site was, they
+said, covered with the bones and tusks of elephants which had come
+there to die.
+
+Had I lived longer among the Nagas, I should have liked to have made
+deeper researches into their language and past history; as it was,
+all my time was taken up with my active duties, and I had not a moment
+to spare.
+
+Their dress is a short kilt of black cotton cloth, ornamented, in
+the case of warriors, with rows of cowrie shells. They have handsome
+cloths of dark blue and yellow thrown over their shoulders in cold
+weather. Their arms are spears and heavy short swords, called by the
+Assamese name of dao; helmets and shields of wicker work (used chiefly
+to cover the more vulnerable parts of the body) and sometimes clothed
+with skins of tigers or bears. They have also tails of wood decorated
+with goats' hair dyed red. The warspears are plain; the ornamental
+ones are covered with goats' hair dyed red, and are sometimes used in
+battle. Their drill is of a most complicated style, and requires much
+practice. An Angami in full war paint is a very formidable-looking
+individual. They are divided into many clans. Several clans often
+inhabit one village, and it frequently happened that two clans thus
+situated were at deadly feud with each other.
+
+Blood feuds were common among all the hill-tribes, but the system
+was carried to excess among the Angamis. Life for life was the rule,
+and until each of the opposing parties had lost an equal number,
+peace was impossible, and whenever members of one village met any
+belonging to the other, hostilities were sure to result. Sometimes
+an attempt was made to bring about a reconciliation, but then it
+frequently happened that the number of slain to the credit of each
+were unequal. Mozuma and Sephema might be at war, and Mozuma killed
+five, whereas Sephema had killed only four. Sephema says, "I must
+kill one more to make the balance, then I will treat for peace,"
+so war continues. Some day Sephema has a chance, but kills two
+instead of the one that was required; this gives her the advantage,
+and Mozuma refuses to treat. So it goes on interminably. The position
+of a small village at war with a large one, was often deplorable as
+no one dared to leave the village except under a strong escort. I
+once knew a case of some Sephema men at feud with Mozuma, hiring two
+women of the powerful village of Konoma to escort them along the road
+as thus accompanied no one dare touch them.
+
+Once at Piphima, when my assistant Mr. Needham was encamped there,
+parties from two hostile villages suddenly met each other and rushed
+to arms. He was equal to the occasion and stopped the combat. I made
+it a criminal offence to fight on our road called the "Political Path,"
+and it was generally respected as neutral ground.
+
+No Angami could assume the "toga virilis," in this case the kilt
+ornamented with cowrie shells, already described, until he had slain
+an enemy, and in the more powerful villages no girl could marry a man
+unless he was so decorated. The cowrie ornaments were taken off when
+a man was mourning the death of a relation.
+
+To kill a baby in arms, or a woman, was accounted a greater feat
+than killing a man, as it implied having penetrated to the innermost
+recesses of an enemy's country, whereas a man might be killed anywhere
+by a successful ambush. I knew a man who had killed sixty women and
+children, when on one occasion he happened to come upon them after
+all the men had left the village on a hunting expedition.
+
+Every Naga who was able to murder an enemy did so, and received great
+commendation for it by all his friends. Later, when I was in Manipur,
+I had a pleasant young fellow as interpreter. He often took my boys
+out for a walk when he had nothing else to do, and was a careful,
+trustworthy man. Once I asked him how many people he had killed (he
+wore the cowrie kilt, a sure sign he had killed some one). A modest
+blush suffused his face as if he did not like to boast of such a good
+deed, and he mildly said, "Two, a woman and a girl!"
+
+The Angamis when on friendly terms are an agreeable people to deal
+with, polite, courteous, and hospitable. I never knew any one take
+more pains or more successfully not to hurt the susceptibilities of
+those they are talking to, indeed they show a tact and good feeling
+worthy of imitation. My wife and I soon knew all the villagers well,
+and often visited them, when we were always offered beer, and asked to
+come into their verandahs and sit down, and just as we were leaving,
+our host would search the hen's nests to give us a few eggs. The beer
+we never took, but many Europeans like it and find it wholesome. It
+is made of rice and has rather a sharp taste. Their houses are large
+substantial structures built of wood and bamboo thatched with grass,
+and the eaves come low down. Houses with any pretensions always
+have verandahs. Besides the houses, there are granaries, often at
+a distance for fear of fire. The Angamis bury their dead in and
+about their villages, and for a time, decorate them with some of the
+belongings of the deceased. Naturally they strongly object to the
+graves being disturbed, and in making alterations I was careful not
+to hurt their feelings.
+
+The more powerful villages in the interior of the hills have a large
+area of cultivation on terraces cut out of the hillside, and carefully
+irrigated. Some of the terraces go up the hillsides to a great height,
+and show considerable skill in their formation. On these terraces
+lowland rice is grown and is very productive. Some of the smaller
+outlying villages like Samagudting have only ordinary hill cultivation,
+where upland rice is grown. The terrace land used to be greatly valued,
+and was often sold at prices equal to �22 to �25 per acre!
+
+The Angamis, in common with most hill-tribes that I have come across,
+have a vague indefinite belief in a supreme being, but look on him as
+too great and good to injure them. They believe themselves also to be
+subject to the influence of evil spirits, whom it is their constant
+endeavour to appease by sacrifices. Every misfortune is, as a rule,
+ascribed to evil spirits, and much money is spent on appeasing them,
+the usual way being to offer fowls, of which the head, feet, and
+entrails are offered to the demon, with many incantations. The other
+parts are eaten by the sacrificer.
+
+All kinds of animals are readily eaten by the Angamis, and those dying
+a natural death are not rejected. Dogs' flesh is highly esteemed. When
+a man wants to have a delicate dish, he starves his dog for a day to
+make him unusually voracious, and then cooks a huge dish of rice on
+which he feeds the hungry beast. As soon as the dog has eaten his
+fill, he is knocked on the head and roasted, cut up and divided,
+and the rice being taken out, is considered the bonne bouche. The
+Manipur dogs are regularly bred for sale to the hill-tribes, Nagas
+included, and a portion of the bazaar, or market, used to be allotted
+to them. I have seen a string of nineteen dogs being led away to be
+strangled. Poor things, they seemed to realise that all was not well.
+
+The Naga women are not handsome but very pleasant-looking, and
+many of the girls are pretty, but soon age with the hard toil they
+have to perform; working in the fields and carrying heavy loads up
+endless hills. They have plenty of spirit and can generally hold
+their own. They do not marry till they are nearly or quite grown
+up. Divorce can be easily obtained when there is an equal division of
+goods. Often a young man takes advantage of this, and marries a rich
+old widow, and soon divorces her, receiving half her property, when he
+is in a position to marry a nice young girl. The tribal name of the
+Angami Nagas is "Tengima." Naga is a name given by the inhabitants
+of the plains, and in the Assamese language means "naked." As some
+of the Naga tribes are seen habitually in that state, the name was
+arbitrarily applied to them all. It is the greatest mistake to connect
+them with the snake worshippers, "Nag Bungsees" of India. Neither Nagas
+or Manipuris, or any tribes on the eastern frontier, are addicted to
+this worship, or have any traditions connected with it, and any snake,
+cobra (Nag) or otherwise, would receive small mercy at their hands. The
+slightest personal acquaintance with the Assamese and their language,
+would have dispelled this myth for ever.
+
+The Nagas are skilful iron-workers and turn out very handsome
+spears. Their women weave substantial and pretty coloured cloths,
+and every man knows enough of rough carpentering to enable him to
+build his house, and make pestles and mortars for husking rice. They
+make rough pottery, but without the potter's wheel.
+
+After Ghumbeer Singh's Expedition, our next dealings with the Angamis
+were in 1833, when Lieut. Gordon, adjutant of the Manipur Levy,
+accompanied the Rajah of Manipur with a large force of Manipuris into
+the Angami hills. On this occasion, Kohima and other villages were
+subdued, as already stated, and an annual tribute exacted by Manipur.
+
+So far as the British territories were concerned, Naga raids went
+on as usual, but nothing was done till early in January 1839, when
+Mr. Grange, sub-Assistant Commissioner of the Nowgong District,
+was despatched with a detachment of the First Assam Sebundies (now
+43rd Goorkha Light Infantry), fifty men of the Cachar Infantry,
+and some Shan Militia, with orders to try and repress these annual
+outrages. His expedition was ill supplied, but fortunately returned
+without any severe losses. His route lay through North Cachar to
+Berrimeh; thence, vi� Razepima to Samagudting and Mohung Deejood;
+beyond gaining local knowledge there was no result, except perhaps
+to show that a well-armed party could march where it liked through
+the hills.
+
+In December 1839, Mr. Grange again visited the hills, and, excepting
+1843, an expedition was sent into the hills every year till 1846
+when a post was permanently established at Samagudting. None of these
+expeditions had any really satisfactory result. The Angamis submitted
+to our troops at the time, and directly we retreated, murder and the
+carrying off of slaves re-commenced. The establishment of the post
+at Samagudting had the effect of improving our relations with the
+people of that village; and Mozuma was always inclined to be friendly;
+beyond this nothing was accomplished.
+
+In August 1849, Bog Chand Darogal, a brave Assamese who was in charge
+of Samagudting, was murdered by one of the clans of Mozuma, owing
+to the rash way in which he interfered in a dispute with another
+clan, which latter remained faithful to us, and thus led to another
+expedition on a large scale. Finally, in December 1850, a large force
+was sent up with artillery. Kohima, which had sent a challenge, was
+destroyed on February 11th, 1851. In this last engagement over three
+hundred Nagas were killed, and our prestige thoroughly established. We
+might then, with great advantage to the people and our own districts,
+have occupied a permanent post, and while protecting our districts
+that had suffered so sorely from Naga raids, have spread civilisation
+far and wide among the hill-tribes. Of course we did nothing of the
+kind; on such occasions the Government of India always does the wrong
+thing; it was done now, and, instead of occupying a new position,
+we retreated, even abandoning our old post at Samagudting, and only
+maintaining a small body of Shan Militia at Dimapur. The Nagas ascribed
+our retreat to fear, the periodical raids on our unfortunate villages
+were renewed, and unheeded by us; and finally, in 1856, we withdrew
+the detachment from Dimapur and abandoned the post.
+
+After that, the Nagas ran riot, and one outrage after another was
+committed. In 1862 the guard and village of Borpathar were attacked
+and, one Sepoy and thirteen villagers killed and two children carried
+off as slaves, but no notice was taken; it was not till 1866 that,
+wearied out by repeated outrages and insults, we determined to
+establish ourselves in the hills, and once for all put down raiding.
+
+A kind of vague boundary between Manipur and the Naga Hills had been
+laid down in 1842, by Lieutenant Biggs on our part, and Captain Gordon
+on the part of the Durbar, but in 1851, when utterly sick of Naga
+affairs, we determined on a policy of non-intervention, permission in
+writing was given to the Durbar to extend its authority over the Naga
+villages on our side of the border. This must be remembered later
+on. Failing any intention on our part to annex the hills, it would
+have been good policy to have re-organised the Manipur territory,
+and to have aided the Maharajah to annex and subdue as much as he
+could under certain restrictions. Had this been done we should have
+saved ourselves much trouble. Personally, I would rather see the
+Naga Hills properly administered by ourselves, but the strong rule
+of Manipur would have been far better than the state of things that
+prevailed for many years after 1851.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Value of keeping a promise--Episode of Sallajee--Protection given
+    to small villages, and the large ones defied--"Thorough Government
+    of India" views--A plea for Christian education in the Naga Hills.
+
+
+Almost from the day I took charge, I let it be known that I was,
+as natives say, "a man of one word," and that if I said a thing,
+I meant it. If I promised a thing, whether a present or punishment,
+the man got it; and if I refused any request, months of importunity
+would not move me. This rule saved me much time and worry; instead
+of being pestered for weeks with some petition, in the hope that my
+patience would be worn out, I simply said Yes, or No, and the people
+soon learned that my decision was final. Later on, during the Naga
+Hills campaign, I found that my ways had not been forgotten, and this
+made dealing with the people much simpler than it might have been.
+
+A certain number of the villages kept one or two men, as the case
+might be, constantly in attendance on me to represent them. These were
+called delegates, and received ten rupees each per mensem. I gave the
+strictest orders to these men not to engage in their tribal raids,
+but to remain absolutely neutral. Sephema had two delegates, Sejile
+and Sallajee by name, and, one day, it was reported to me that the
+last had joined in a raid by his village on Mozuma, and I instantly
+summoned him to attend and put him on his trial for disobeying a lawful
+order. Some wise-acres in the place shook their heads, and doubted if
+I were strong enough to punish, or the advisability of doing so; but
+I held that an order must be obeyed, otherwise, it was no use issuing
+orders, also, that this was an opportunity of making an example. Of
+course it was an experiment, as no one had been punished before for
+a similar offence, and I well knew that resistance on his part would
+mean that to assert my authority I must attack and destroy Sephema,
+but I felt the time had come for vigorous action, and was prepared to
+go through with it. I tried Sallajee, found him guilty, and sentenced
+him to six months' imprisonment in Tezpore jail. In giving judgment,
+I said, "You have not been guilty of a disgraceful offence, therefore,
+I do not sentence you to hard labour, and shall not have you bound or
+handcuffed like a thief; but, remember, you cannot escape me, so do
+not be foolish enough to run away from the man in charge of you." I
+then sent him in charge of two police sepoys through one hundred miles
+of forest, and he underwent his imprisonment without attempting to get
+away. Right thankful I was that my experiment succeeded. Sallajee lived
+to fight against us, during the campaign in the Naga Hills in 1879-80.
+
+The orders of the Government of India were strictly against our
+responsibilities being extended. We took tribute from Samagudting,
+but it was the only village we considered as under our direct rule,
+and that only so long as it suited us. Before leaving Calcutta, the
+Foreign Secretary said to me emphatically, when I urged an extension
+of our sway--"but those villages (the Angami Nagas) are not British
+territory, and we do not want to extend the 'red line.'"
+
+However, Government may lay down rules, but as long as they are not
+sound, they cannot be kept to by artificial bonds, and sooner or later
+events prove stronger than theories. The fact is, that no Government of
+late years had ever interested itself in the Eastern Frontier tribes,
+except so far as to coax them or bribe them to keep quiet. The Abors
+on the banks of the Burrhampooter had long been paid "blackmail,"
+and any subterfuge was resorted to, that would stave off the day of
+reckoning which was nevertheless inevitable.
+
+As regards the Nagas, this timidity was highly reprehensible. We had
+acquired such a prestige, that the least sign of vigorous action on
+our part was sure to be crowned with success, so long as we did not
+make some foolish mistake.
+
+The people in the hills knew that we objected to the system of raiding,
+and could not understand why, such being the case, we did not put it
+down, and ascribed our not doing so to weakness, wherein they were
+right, and inability wherein they were wrong. The less powerful
+villages would at any time have been glad of our protection, and
+one of the most powerful--Mozuma, was anxious to become subject to
+us. Offers of submission had been made once or twice, but no one liked
+to take the responsibility of going against the policy and orders
+of the Government. At last an event occurred which brought things
+to a crisis, and forced us either to adopt a strong policy, or make
+ourselves contemptible by a confession of weakness, and indifference.
+
+Towards the end of March 1874, a deputation came to me from the
+village of Mezeffina begging for protection against Mozuma, with whom
+they had a feud, and from whom for some reason or other they daily
+expected an attack. They offered to become British subjects and pay
+revenue in return for protection. I considered the matter carefully,
+and before I had given my decision, crowds of old people, and women
+carrying their children, came in asking me to save their lives. I at
+once decided to grant their request, and promised them what they asked,
+on condition that they paid up a year's tribute in advance. This they
+at once did, and I immediately sent a messenger to proclaim to Mozuma
+that the people of Mezeffina were British subjects, and to threaten
+them or any one else with dire vengeance if they dared to lay hands
+on them. Our new subjects asked me and my wife, to go out and receive
+their submission in person, an invitation which we accepted, and next
+day a large number of men turned up to carry my wife, and our baggage,
+and that of our escort, consisting of twenty men.
+
+The Mezeffina men rested for the night in Samagudting, and early on
+the following morning we started, and reached the village in good
+time, where we were received with great demonstrations of respect. We
+spent the night there, and then were conveyed back to Samagudting,
+after a very pleasant visit.
+
+I did not underrate the grave responsibility that I incurred in
+going against the policy of Government, but I felt it was utterly
+impossible that I, as their representative, could quietly stand by,
+and see a savage massacre perpetrated, within sight of our station of
+Samagudting. There is no doubt that this would have speedily followed
+had I sent the people away without acceding to their wishes. Of course,
+I might have used my influence with Mozuma to prevent a raid in this
+particular instance, but that would have been giving protection, and,
+I argued, if we give protection, let us get a little revenue to help
+to pay for it. Why should all the advantage be on one side? Besides
+a half-and-half policy would never have succeeded. "Thorough" should
+be the motto of all who deal with savage and half-civilised races;
+a promise to refer to Government is of little avail when people are
+thinking of each other's blood. Action, immediate action, is what
+is required. A failure to realise this, brought on later the Mozuma
+expedition of 1877-78, in which a valuable officer lost his life.
+
+Besides the obvious objections I have pointed out, any attempt to make
+terms in favour of one village after another by negotiations with
+their adversaries, would have involved us in so many complications,
+that it would probably have ended in a combination against us.
+
+I reported the matter to Government, and before I could receive any
+answer, the village of Sitekima which had a feud with Sephema came
+in and asked for the same favour to be accorded to it, as had been
+granted to Mezeffina. I accordingly took them over on the same terms,
+and again issued a proclamation calling on all people to respect
+their rights as British subjects.
+
+Soon after I heard from the Chief Commissioner of Assam, directing
+me to take over no more villages without a reference. However, this
+could not be, there was no telegraph in those days, and the tide in
+favour of asking for our protection had set in in earnest, and must be
+taken at the flood. "Vestigia nulla retrorsum" there was no retreat;
+and having acted according to my judgment for the best interests of
+the State, I felt bound to take further responsibility on myself,
+when necessary. Accordingly when the little village of Phenina applied
+for protection and offered revenue, I at once acceded, and accepted
+their allegiance as British subjects, with the result that they were
+left in peace by their powerful neighbours, and had no more anxiety
+as to their safety. Phenina was followed by several other villages,
+to whom I granted the same terms.
+
+The Mozuma Nagas were always an intelligent set of men, and liked
+to be in the forefront of any movement. Seeing the part that other
+villages were taking, they came forward and offered to pay revenue,
+if we would establish a guard of police in their village, and set up
+a school for their children to attend. This was a question involving
+a considerable expenditure of money, and as they were not in need of
+protection, I felt that I could not accede to their request without
+further reference, but I sent on the proposal to Government with a
+strong recommendation that it should be adopted. The consideration of
+it was put off for a time, and when very tardily my recommendation
+was accepted, the Mozuma people had, as I predicted, changed their
+minds. Such cases are of constant occurrence. When will our rulers
+take the story of the Sibylline books to heart?
+
+The question of education generally, was one that greatly
+interested me, my success in Keonjhur [12] in the tributary Mehals
+of Orissa, where I had introduced schools, having been very great. In
+combination with other suggestions, I strongly urged the advisability
+of establishing a regular system of education, including religious
+instruction, under a competent clergyman of the Church of England. I
+pointed out that the Nagas had no religion; that they were highly
+intelligent and capable of receiving civilisation; that with it
+they would want a religion, and that we might just as well give
+them our own, and make them in that way a source of strength, by
+thus mutually attaching them to us. Failing this, I predicted that,
+following the example of other hill-tribes, they would sooner or later
+become debased Hindoos or Mussulmans, and in the latter case, as we
+knew by experience, be a constant source of trouble and annoyance,
+Mussulman converts in Assam and Eastern Bengal, being a particularly
+disagreeable and bigoted set. My suggestion did not find favour with
+the authorities, and I deeply regret it. A fine, interesting race
+like the Angamis, might, as a Christian tribe, occupy a most useful
+position on our Eastern Frontier, and I feel strongly that we are not
+justified in allowing them to be corrupted and gradually "converted"
+by the miserable, bigoted, caste-observing Mussulman of Bengal, men who
+have not one single good quality in common with the manly Afghans, and
+other real Mussulman tribes. I do not like to think it, but, unless we
+give the Nagas a helping hand in time, such is sure to be their fate,
+and we shall have ourselves to thank when they are utterly corrupted.
+
+The late General Dalton, C.S.I., when Commissioner of Chota Nagpure,
+did his utmost to aid Christian Mission among the wild Kols; his
+argument being like mine, that they wanted a religion, and that
+were they Christians, they would be a valuable counterpoise in time
+of trouble to the vast non-Christian population of Behar. In the
+same way it cannot be doubted, that a large population of Christian
+hill-men between Assam and Burmah, would be a valuable prop to the
+State. Properly taught and judiciously handled, the Angamis would
+have made a fine manly set of Christians, of a type superior to most
+Indian native converts, and probably devoted to our rule. As things
+stand at present, I fear they will be gradually corrupted and lose the
+good qualities, which have made them attractive in the past, and that,
+as time goes on, unless some powerful counter influence is brought to
+bear on them, they will adopt the vile, bigoted type of Mahommedanism
+prevalent in Assam and Cachar, and instead of becoming a tower of
+strength to us, be a perpetual weakness and source of annoyance. I
+earnestly hope that I may be wrong, and that their future may be as
+bright a one as I could wish for them.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Dimapur--A terrible storm--Cultivation--Aggression by Konoma--My
+    ultimatum--Konoma submits--Birth of a son--Forest flowers--A fever
+    patient--Proposed change of station--Leave Naga Hills--March
+    through the forest--Depredation by tigers--Calcutta--Return
+    to England.
+
+
+Once more before the weather began to be unpleasantly hot, we went
+down to Dimapur that I might inspect the road and a rest house being
+built at Nowkatta. Dimapur though hot, was pleasant enough in the
+evening, when I used to row my wife about on the large tank in a
+canoe which just held us both. We could see a few feet below the
+surface, the remains of the post set up when a tank is dedicated to
+the deity. This post is usually many feet above the water, but here
+it had rotted away from age. On a tree close to the rest house I shot
+a chestnut coloured flying squirrel.
+
+One sultry afternoon I rode out alone to Nowkatta. About half-way
+I was stopped by a sudden storm, one of the most terrific I have
+ever seen; the wind howled through the forest, and the trees swayed
+to and fro literally like blades of grass. As the storm increased,
+trees were torn up by the roots right and left, and some that were
+very firmly rooted were shattered in pieces. Many of these trees
+were 80 to 120 feet in height, and large in proportion, but the
+wind was so high that I never heard the sound of the crash. I hardly
+expected to escape being crushed by a falling tree, and nothing but
+the extreme activity of my pony, a little Manipuri, saved me. I was
+at length enabled to get on to Nowkatta, but as I returned, I had
+much difficulty in making my way through the masses of fallen trees
+which formed an obstacle often six feet in height, and I could only
+pass them by penetrating the dense underwood, and riding round one end.
+
+I returned to Dimapur later than I expected and drenched by the
+soaking rain. Next day we went back to Samagudting very glad to
+be again in a cooler atmosphere. We both paid for our visit to the
+lowlands in a sharp attack of intermittent fever. Luckily, my wife
+speedily recovered; but it told on my system, already saturated with
+malaria and was the forerunner of constant attacks.
+
+Except for its unhealthiness, Dimapur was a nice place, and, if
+properly opened out, and cultivated, the country would be far more
+salubrious. For this reason I advocated families being induced to
+settle there as cultivators; and I had a scheme for establishing a
+Police Militia Reserve in that district. I thought that a certain
+number of the Naga Hills police might with advantage be discharged
+every year and enlisted as reserve men, liable to serve when needed
+in case of trouble; a reduced rate of pay to be given to each man,
+and a grant of land to cultivate. I believe the system would have
+worked well, but it was not sanctioned.
+
+An incident occurred in the month of August which might have proved
+serious. A native of a Kutcha Naga village within sight of Samagudting
+came to complain that, while gathering wild tea-seed for sale, he
+had been driven off by a Konoma Naga. Konoma, though not the most
+populous village, had long been considered the most powerful and
+warlike in the hills, and a threat from one of its members was almost a
+sentence of death to a man from a weak village. The Merema clan also,
+one of the worst in the hills for lawless deeds, had never made its
+submission to Captain Butler, though it had on one occasion to his
+predecessor. On hearing the man's complaint, I at once sent off a
+message by a Naga calling upon the chiefs of Konoma to come in to me,
+and also to cease molesting their neighbours; but the man returned,
+saying that they refused to come in, and intended to do as they liked
+with the tea-seed, as it was theirs. This was more than I could put up
+with, and I selected a particularly trustworthy man, a naik (corporal)
+in the police named Kurum Singh, [13] who knew the Naga language, and
+would, I was convinced, speak out fearlessly, and deliver my message. I
+sent him off at once to Konoma to call upon the head-men to come in
+without delay, and make their humble submission to me within a day
+and a half of receiving the summons, failing which I would attack and
+destroy their village. Kurum Singh left, and I felt rather anxious,
+as Konoma contained five times as many warriors as I had police all
+told, and it occupied a strong position; however, I felt I had done
+my duty. It was a great satisfaction when Kurum Singh returned,
+saying that the chiefs were coming in, and they did so within the
+stipulated time, and made their submission and presented me with a
+large state spear as a token of it. They also humbly apologised and
+promised never to molest that Kutcha Naga village again; and when I
+spoke of the Queen, begged me to write to her and say, that she must
+not believe any idle tales against the Konoma men, as they would be
+her humble servants. It was a satisfactory ending to what might have
+been a troublesome business. The state spear now ornaments my hall.
+
+On the 23rd June, my wife presented me with a son, and he being the
+first child of pure European parentage born in the hills, the Nagas
+of Samagudting took great interest in the baby, and old Yatsol� the
+P�umah, said he should be their chief and named him "Naga Rajah." The
+friendly women and girls from the village constantly came to see
+him. We liked the hills and the people, and the work so much that we
+both felt we could willingly have passed our lives among them. All
+the same, our accommodation was really most wretched, and food was
+bad and scarce, and water scarcer. As the rainy season advanced the
+place grew more and more unhealthy, and having a baby to attend to,
+my wife never left Samagudting. I continued to go down to Dimapur
+occasionally, and sometimes rode out with my friend Needham to inspect
+the path that was being cut to Mohung Deejood and a rest house being
+built at a place in the forest on that road, called Borsali. It was
+pleasant to have a companion during a long lonely ride. Needham was an
+indefatigable worker, and always ready for a dash. He made a capital
+frontier officer, and has since greatly distinguished himself on the
+N.-E. Frontier.
+
+Towards the end of August, the Vanda C�rulea orchids began to come
+into flower. There was a magnificent plant of them in a large old tree
+on the summit of the hill, indeed the most splendid specimen of their
+kind that I ever saw; but wild flowers, many really beautiful, were
+generally procurable, especially a small snow-white flower rather like
+a periwinkle that grew in the jungle on a small ever-green bush. Ferns,
+including maidenhair, were very plentiful, and we made collections
+of them in our morning and evening walks. These walks often led us
+past stray huts, and once my wife was asked to come into one and
+prescribe for a sick Naga woman. We both entered it and finding that
+the woman had fever, we told her husband to keep her cool and quiet,
+and promised some medicine. When we again went to see her, the hut,
+about nine feet by seven feet in size, was full of little fires on the
+floor, over which several Nagas were drying strips of flesh from an
+elephant that had been killed a few miles away. The temperature must
+have been about 110 degrees, so little wonder that the poor woman was
+no better. The husband said she would not take her medicine, and when
+in our presence he attempted to give it she hit him on the head; yet he
+wore the warrior's kilt, so had taken at least one life. When my wife
+sat down by her and gave her the medicine she took it readily. Towards
+the end of the rainy season many were laid low by fever. Natives of
+other parts of India until thoroughly acclimatised, suffer greatly
+from the diseases peculiar to jungle districts, and our servants were
+not exceptions to the rule. Once acclimatised, a Hindoostani seems
+able to stand anything. It used to be said in my regiment, the 1st
+Assam Light Infantry Battalion, now 42nd, that Hindoostani recruits
+spent their first three years' service in hospital! I am sure that
+something of the same kind might have been said of those who came to
+the Naga Hills before the headquarters were removed to Kohima.
+
+Captain Butler, recognising the unsuitableness of Samagudting for
+a station, had recommended the removal of the headquarters to Woka,
+in the Lotah Naga country, and about sixty-three miles from Kohima. I
+spoke to him on the subject, and pointed out the superior advantages of
+Kohima as a central position, dominating the Angami Naga country. He
+quite agreed with me, but said he had advocated Woka as being nearer
+the plains, nearer water carriage, and altogether a more comfortable
+situation, especially for the officers. I went into the whole subject
+most carefully, and before leaving the Naga Hills I thought it right to
+record my opinion in a memorandum to the Government of Assam. This I
+did, pointing out as forcibly as I could the very superior advantages
+of Kohima, and urging most strongly that it should be adopted as our
+headquarters station in the Naga Hills. As I was only the officiating
+agent, I could not expect my views to carry as much weight as Captain
+Butler's, but convinced as I was, I was bound to state them. The
+question was not settled for some years when Kohima was the site
+selected, and it has ever since been the headquarters station.
+
+I had never got over the attack of fever I had in April, and as
+the rainy season advanced, and we were for days together enveloped
+in mist, I had constant attacks, with other complications, and as
+Captain Butler was coming out in November, and the doctor strongly
+recommended me to go to England again, I determined to apply for
+leave. My friend Needham had gone on leave to Shillong, so I could
+not think of starting till he returned. He was due at Samagudting
+early in November, and I prepared to leave then. It was with most
+sincere regret that we made arrangements for starting. We had got
+used to the discomforts of the place and had been very happy there
+and liked the people, and felt that they liked us; the cold weather
+too was just beginning and everything around us looked beautiful.
+
+I had determined to march straight through the forest to Doboka, and
+thence take boat down the Kullung river to Gowhatty. It was a dreadful
+march to undertake, along a mere track untraversed by any European for
+years, but my wife liked the idea of it, and it was shorter than the
+route vi� Nigriting. On November 6th, we reluctantly said "good-bye"
+to all our kind friends at Samagudting and marched to Dimapur, where
+we halted next day to get all our things into order. Some of the
+chiefs of Samagudting accompanied us so far on our way and bade us a
+sorrowful adieu on the 7th. One old fellow took quite an affectionate
+farewell of our baby Dick. When I saw him again in 1879, he was blind,
+and one of his pretty little girls was dying.
+
+We marched through dense forest on the 8th to Borsali, my wife
+riding and carrying the baby in her arms, there being no other mode
+of progression along such a bad road. On the 9th after seven hours'
+actual marching, we reached Mohung Deejood, a place prettily situated
+on the banks of the Jumoona river with the last speck of the Rengma
+Hills standing out in high relief behind the village, but at some
+distance from it. Next day we again had a tiring march of eleven hours,
+including a halt for breakfast at a place called "Silbheta" where
+there are splendid waterfalls, and did not reach our halting place,
+Bokuleea, till 6 P.M. The last two marches had been through a country
+devastated by tigers which had literally eaten up the population; each
+day we passed deserted village sites. At Bokuleea we made rafts and
+floated down the river to Doboka, which we reached on November 13th.
+
+Doboka is situated close to the hill of the same name and was
+a prominent object from Samagudting. There we took boats, and
+travelled in them down the Kullung river. We reached the junction
+with the Burrhampooter at daybreak on November 17th, and Gowhatty
+at midday. I was most thankful to see my wife and child safe in the
+Dak Bungalow after what was for delicate people a perilous journey,
+though an interesting and enjoyable one, through a country hardly ever
+traversed by European officials, and never by women and children. After
+a few days at Gowhatty to rest ourselves, we departed by steamer for
+Goalundo, arriving there early on November 29th, and immediately left
+for Calcutta, which we reached the same evening and went to stay with
+our kind friends the Rivers Thompsons, with whom we had travelled
+out to India in 1873. Glad as we were to be in civilised quarters
+once more after all our wanderings, we could not help regretting the
+kindly genial people we had left, and the beautiful scenery of the
+forest and mountain land, where we had lived so long and so happily.
+
+On arrival in Calcutta, I went before the Medical Board, but not liking
+to go to England again so soon, I applied for three months' leave
+to visit the North-West Provinces for change of air, and we visited
+Benares, Lucknow, Cawnpore, and other towns. I do not attempt to
+describe them, as it has been often done by abler pens than mine. The
+after symptoms of malaria increased, and it was vain to prolong my stay
+in India in the hope of a cure. The Medical Board said my appearance
+was sufficient without examination, so we left Calcutta by the next
+steamer, going by "long sea" to avoid the fatiguing journey across
+India to Bombay. After unusually rough weather in the Mediterranean
+and off the coast of Spain, we landed at Southampton, on March 9th,
+at 9 P.M., and went on to London next morning.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Return to India--Attached to Foreign Office--Imperial assemblage at
+    Delhi--Almorah--Appointed to Manipur--Journey to Shillong--Cherra
+    Poojee--Colonel McCulloch--Question of ceremony.
+
+
+Malaria, and all the evils that follow in its train, are more easily
+acquired than got rid of. Possibly two years in England, including
+four visits to Carlsbad, which high medical authorities seem to
+consider, and very justly, a sine qu� non, might give a man a good
+chance if he never again visited a malarious district, otherwise,
+my own experience shows me that two years are nothing. Every time I
+have gone before a Medical Board in London, preparatory to returning
+to duty, their last charge has been, "You must never again go to
+a malarious district!" Medical Boards propose, and Government and
+circumstances dispose.
+
+I stayed at home in a high and healthy part of the Midlands, and left
+for India again in October. I arrived in Calcutta in November, where
+I again suffered from malarious symptoms; but I soon got better,
+and was attached to the Foreign Office, at my own request, extra
+attach�s being required for the Imperial Assemblage.
+
+I had the good fortune to see the whole of that gorgeous pageant,
+the like of which this generation will probably never witness again,
+under the most favourable auspices; and though I had on an average
+eighteen hours' work out of each twenty-four, I was well repaid by
+being able to take part in it. I met many old friends, and also became
+acquainted with Salar Jung, Maharajahs Scindiah and Holkar, Sir Dinkur
+Rao, Madhava Rao, and several other now historical celebrities. The
+Viceroy's reception-tent at night was a grand sight, filled with
+gallant soldiers, European and native, and great statesmen.
+
+Among the new arrivals was the Khan of Khelat, an intelligent but
+savage-looking chief, with eyes all about him. I was being constantly
+deputed to carry polite messages from the Viceroy to different chiefs
+and celebrities and to meet them at the railway stations. Among those
+whom I met were the envoy from the Chief of Muscat, also the Siamese
+Ambassador and his suite, a highly intelligent and sensible set of
+men. I remember well the rough-and-ready way in which the younger
+Siamese officers looked after their luggage and effects. They were
+provided with a handsome set of tents, and all dined together at
+one table in European fashion, in the most civilised way, with the
+British officer attached to them.
+
+I stayed at Delhi till the assemblage broke up, and after a few days
+in Calcutta with the Foreign Office, went to Bombay to meet my wife,
+who, with our two boys, arrived there on February 2nd. We at once set
+out on our way to Almorah in the Himalayas, where I was permitted to
+reside for a year and compile Foreign Office records.
+
+We were delayed at Moradabad for a few days, as the passes were covered
+with snow. At last we started, and found Nynee Tal deep in snow, and
+the lake frozen. Next day we marched across the track of an avalanche,
+and the following afternoon reached the Almorah Dak Bungalow, or
+rest house. The ground was covered with snow, and the cold intense,
+the bungalow draughty and very uncomfortable. After a few days we got
+into a house, which Sir H. Ramsey, who was then out on duty in the
+district, had kindly taken for us, and I dived deep into my records,
+consisting of early documents relating to Assam and the Singpho tribes.
+
+As the weather grew warmer, Almorah became very pleasant. I pined
+for active work, but our stay here gave my wife experience in the
+mode of life in India, for which she was afterwards very thankful,
+and she obtained hints on housekeeping subjects from other ladies,
+which were a help to her later on. Life in the Naga Hills was of
+course very different to what it is in more civilised parts of India.
+
+The Foreign Office had my name down in their list for an appointment. I
+could have gone to Manipur when I landed in Calcutta, but was not
+well enough. In July, I had a telegram to say that Lieut. Durand,
+who had lately been appointed, was ill, and must be relieved. Would
+I go? I at once replied in the affirmative, and off we started on
+July 16th. It was very short notice, but changing quarters at short
+notice is part of an Indian official's life, and the prospect of
+work was delightful to me. We had a trying journey down to Calcutta,
+as the rains had not begun in the North-West Provinces, and the heat
+was tremendous. However, we arrived none the worse for it, and stayed
+for a day or two with our kind friends, the Medlicotts.
+
+As Colonel Keatinge, the Chief Commissioner of Assam, wished to see
+me before I went to Manipur, I was ordered to join at Shillong, so
+we proceeded by rail to Goalundo, one night's journey from Calcutta,
+and thence by river steamer to Chuttuk, on the Soorma, where we
+changed into country boats, and proceeded up a smaller river and
+across great jheels or shallow lakes, often passing for miles through
+high grass growing in the water, which hid us from everything, till we
+reached a place called Bholagunj, situated on a river rapidly becoming
+narrower, where we again changed, this time into small canoes, the
+only conveyances that could take us up the rapids, with which the
+river abounds.
+
+From Chuttuk we had come through a country mostly covered with grass
+jungle, twelve to fifteen feet in height; now we passed through
+forest scenery, very lovely fine trees, with festoons of creepers
+and flowers overhanging the stream. At last we reached Thuria Gh�t,
+where the ascent of the hills commenced, and there we halted for the
+night in the Dak Bungalow, or rest house. Most places situated as
+Thuria Gh�t is, would be deadly on account of malaria, but it seems
+to be an exception, and, as far as I have seen, healthy.
+
+Knowing the servant difficulties in the province of Assam, we had
+brought servants with us from Almorah, men who had implored us to
+take them. When I consented to do so I voluntarily raised their wages
+from fifty to eighty per cent. above what they had been receiving,
+but with the exception of a Dhobee (washerman), and a bearer (a
+compound of housemaid and valet), they all became corrupted by the
+other servants they met at Shillong, and who spoke of Manipur in
+very disparaging terms, so before going farther I let them go, as
+they demanded an enormous increase of wages.
+
+The Dhobee Nunnoo, and the bearer Horna, stuck to me to the very last,
+and proved admirable servants. It was fortunate that we had servants,
+as there were none at Thuria Gh�t rest house; as it was, we managed
+very well, and were prepared to march in the morning before the coolies
+were ready to take up our luggage. We had a tiring march up the hill
+to Cherra Poojee; my wife and the children were in baskets on men's
+backs, but I was on foot and felt the march in the intense heat to be
+very fatiguing, though we halted to rest half-way. However, when we
+reached the plateau of Cherra Poojee, 4000 feet above Thuria Gh�t,
+the cool air speedily set me right, and we all enjoyed the scenery,
+hills, plains, waterfalls in abundance, deep valleys, and the lowlands
+of Sylhet, covered with water, as far as the eye could reach. We had
+a comfortable bungalow to rest in, and a cool night at last.
+
+Next day we marched to Moflung, 6000 feet above the sea, and then to
+Shillong, where for the next few days we were hospitably entertained by
+the Chief Commissioner, Colonel (now General) Keatinge, V.C., C.S.I.,
+who kindly sent a carriage to meet us on the road. As Colonel Keatinge
+wished me to remain at Shillong for a time, and meet Mr. Carnegy,
+political officer in the Naga Hills, who was coming there later on,
+I arranged to stay, and took a house; so we settled down comfortably
+till the early part of October--a very pleasant arrangement for us
+instead of facing the intense heat of the Cachar Valley in August. It
+gave me a good opportunity of looking over the records of the Chief
+Commissioner's office, where I found much relating to Manipur, but
+I fear that it was lost when the Record Office was burnt down some
+years ago, the copies also having been destroyed in Manipur during
+the rebellion of 1891. At last the day for leaving came, and we packed
+up our things and prepared once more to set off on our travels.
+
+Before leaving, I paid several visits to Colonel McCulloch, who, since
+retiring from the service, had established himself at Shillong, and
+asked his advice on many points, and learned much from him regarding
+Manipur. He very kindly gave his opinion freely on all questions,
+telling me where some of my predecessors had failed, and pointing out
+the pitfalls to be avoided. He added to all his kindness by writing
+to the Maharajah, and telling him that, from what he had seen of me,
+he was sure it would be his fault if we did not get on together.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Start for Manipur--March over the hills--Lovely scenery--View of
+    the valleys--State reception--The Residency--Visitors.
+
+
+Lowremba Subadar, an excellent old fellow, formerly in the service
+of Colonel McCulloch, was sent to Shillong to be in attendance
+on me, and of course to find out all he could about me and report
+the result. Before I left, he sent a note to the Maharajah of my
+requirements in the way of coolies, etc., for our long journey of
+ten days between Cachar and Manipur, and I also intimated that, as
+the representative of the British Government, and as one who well
+knew what was due to me as such, I should expect to be received with
+proper ceremony.
+
+This was a point on which I laid much stress, as my experience had
+taught me that in a native state so tenacious of its dignity and
+ancient customs as Manipur, my future success depended in a great
+measure on my scrupulously requiring all that I was entitled to, and
+as much more as I could get. It had been a complaint against one of
+my predecessors that he had been discourteous, and I determined that
+the Manipuris should not have to complain of me on that score, and in
+my letters I took care to be as courteous and considerate as possible.
+
+On former occasions it had been the custom for a new political agent
+to enter the capital unattended, and to call on the Maharajah the
+next day, the latter repaying the visit a day later. This I did
+not consider sufficient, and I determined that he should come out
+to meet me in state. When Colonel McCulloch returned to Manipur the
+second time, this had been done, Colonel McCulloch being an old and
+intimate friend of the Maharajah. I quoted this as a precedent. I
+tried in vain to get the Foreign Department to back up my request,
+but could not induce them to interfere on my behalf, so I took the
+responsibility on myself, and sent a formal demand to the Maharajah
+to send a high officer--a major commanding a regiment--to meet me on
+the road, and to meet me himself in state at a suitable distance from
+the capital. The result will be described.
+
+All being ready we left Shillong, my wife, nurse and children on men's
+backs as before, for Cherra Poojee, where we arrived the second day;
+thence, on the third day, we went to Thuria Gh�t, on by boat vi�
+Bholagunj, to Sylhet and Cachar. We reached Cachar on October 17th,
+after passing the historical fort of Budderpore, where a battle was
+fought with the Burmese in 1825, and settled down in the bungalow
+of our kind friend Major Boyd who was away. Our coolies arrived on
+October 18th, and we again packed our things and prepared to depart
+on our final march.
+
+We left Cachar for Manipur on October 20th, my wife and the nurse and
+boys in "doolies," a kind of tray four feet long by two in width,
+with sides and ends eight inches in height, supported by two long
+poles running along the bottom of each side, and slung at each end
+to loose bars of wood carried on men's shoulders. The passenger sits
+inside as best he can, and there is a light matting roof thrown over
+to protect him from the weather. To begin with, it is an uncomfortable
+and shaky conveyance, but in time one gets accustomed to it.
+
+Our baggage was carried mostly on men's backs, each load varying from
+sixty to seventy pounds in weight. Altogether we had, I daresay, one
+hundred coolies, as everything we required for a ten days' journey had
+to be carried, in addition to personal baggage and stores for our use
+on arrival. I had provided a tent in case of need, but did not use it,
+as rude huts were provided for us at all the stages along the road. Our
+first halt was at Luckipore, in British territory, and, as usual,
+the first march was the most trying; for servants, coolies, etc.,
+have to learn each other's ways. I had an escort of one hundred men
+of the 35th Native Infantry, under a subadar, as it was expected that
+I might have to go on an expedition soon after my arrival, and these
+men had their own special coolies, so we were a large party altogether.
+
+We halted at Luckipore, as I have said, a few miles from the Hoorung
+Hills and at Jeree Gh�t. Next day we left British territory and entered
+Manipur, where we found some huts built for our accommodation. At Jeree
+Gh�t the really interesting part of the journey commenced; thence, till
+Bissenpore in the valley of Manipur is reached, the traveller marches
+day after day over hills and across rivers. The first day from Jeree
+Gh�t we crossed the Noon-jai-bang range, the summit of which is 1800
+to 1900 feet above the sea from whence a fine view of the next range,
+Kala Naga or in Manipuri, Wy-nang-nong, is obtained. The road which
+was made under the superintendence of Captain (afterwards Colonel)
+Guthrie, of the Bengal Engineers between 1837 and 1844, at the joint
+expense of the British and Manipuri Governments, the former paying
+the larger share, was excellent for foot passengers and pack animals,
+but not wide enough and too steep for wheeled traffic on a large scale.
+
+After descending from Noong-jai-bang we halted on the banks of the
+Mukker river amidst splendid forest, and next day ascended the Kala
+Naga range and halted on the crest close to a Manipuri guard house
+at a height of 3400 feet.
+
+From this spot a magnificent view of the plains of Cachar is
+obtained, and in fine weather, far beyond them the Kasia hills in the
+neighbourhood of Cherra Poojee may be descried. The scene at sunset
+is sometimes magnificent. In the foreground the dark forests, and in
+the far distance a huge bank of golden clouds with their reflection
+in the watery plain, and a mingled mass of colours, green fields,
+purple, crimson, red and gold, all mixed up in such a way as no
+painter would ever attempt to copy. As the sun sinks those colours
+change and re-arrange themselves every minute in quick succession,
+and when at last night closes in, the impression left on the mind is
+one of never-ending wonder and admiration.
+
+From Kala Naga to the Bar�k river is a very stiff descent, calculated
+to shake the knees of an inexperienced hill-walker, and many is the
+toe-nail lost by the pressure of one's boots. Here as at the Mukker
+and other rivers farther on, the Bar�k is crossed by cane suspension
+bridges, which vibrate and move at every step. In the dry season
+these rivers are crossed by very cleverly constructed bamboo pontoon
+bridges, but when the rainy season has commenced, they become raging
+torrents, which nothing but a fish could live in, and but for the
+suspension bridges, all communication with the outer world would be
+cut off. The bridge over the Eerung river was one hundred yards in
+length, and like all the others, was, when I first went to Manipur,
+constructed entirely of cane and bamboo, and could by great exertions,
+be finished in three days. During my period of office, wire ropes
+were substituted for the two main cables on which all rested, and the
+strength of the bridges greatly increased thereby. It was an important
+part of my duty to see that both roads and bridges were kept in order.
+
+Our march was interesting but uneventful. We started after breakfast
+and generally reached our halting place in time for a late luncheon
+or afternoon tea. Wherever we halted we had a hut to live in,
+generally in some picturesque spot, one day giving a splendid view
+of hill and valley with nothing but forests in view, on another we
+were perched on a hill overlooking the beautiful Kowpoom valley,
+a sheet of cultivation. At last, on the ninth day after crossing
+the Lai-metol river, and ascending the Lai-metol, we had our first
+view of the valley of Manipur [14] spread out like a huge map at our
+feet. Seen as it was by us at the end of the rainy season, and from a
+height of 2600 feet above it, is a vast expanse of flat land bordered
+by hills, and mostly covered with water, through which the rice crops
+are vigorously growing. To the south the Logtak lake is visible, with
+several island hills in it, while far away to the north-east might be
+seen the glittering roofs of the temples of Imphal, the capital. It
+requires time to take in the view and to appreciate it. In the dry
+season it looks very different with brown, dried-up hills in the
+place of green.
+
+The valley of Manipur possesses a few sacred groves, left, according to
+the universal aboriginal custom, throughout all parts of India that I
+have visited, for the wood spirits, when the land was first cleared;
+but no natural forest. These groves are little isolated patches of
+forest dotted here and there; the villages have plenty of planted
+trees, many of great antiquity, and from the heights above they have
+the appearance of woodland covered with grass. Besides this, all is one
+sheet of cultivation or waste covered with grass. It was once entirely
+cultivated, that is, before the Burmese invasion of 1819, when the
+population of the valley, was from 500 to 1000 per square mile.
+
+We halted to rest on the summit of the Lai-metol, and then descended,
+passing sometimes under a kind of wild apple tree with very
+eatable fruit, and once through a lovely grove of oak trees, called
+"Oui-ong-Moklung," and then, still far below us, saw some elephants
+sent for us by the Maharajah. These elephants were posted at Sebok
+Tannah, [15] a police station where the ground begins to grow level,
+and a mile farther brought us to Bissenpore, where there was a rude
+rest house. Here we halted for the night.
+
+I have mentioned my demand that I should be met with proper
+ceremony. It was of course stoutly resisted, every argument founded
+on old custom, etc., being used against it. However, I stood firm, and
+absolutely refused to go beyond Bissenpore, till the Maharajah gave me
+an assurance that he would do all I required. In the end he gave in,
+and a day before reaching that place, his uncle met me on the road with
+a letter saying that all should be done as I wished. This official,
+by name Samoo Major, became a great friend of mine, and remained so
+till I finally left; he is, alas, I believe, now a prisoner in the
+Andamans, having been supposed to be implicated in the rising in 1891.
+
+The next day we left Bissenpore in good time, and marched the seventeen
+miles to the capital, halting half-way at Phoiching, where I was
+met by some officials. Farther on, some of still higher rank came
+to greet me, and finally, at the entrance to the capital, I was met
+by the Maharajah himself, surrounded by all his sons. A carpet was
+spread with chairs for him and myself, we both of us having descended
+from our elephants, advanced and met in the centre of the carpet,
+and having made our salutations (a salute of eleven guns was fired
+in my honour), we sat and talked for two minutes. We then mounted,
+the Maharajah's elephant being driven by his third son, the master
+of the elephants; and we rode together through the great bazaar,
+till our roads diverged at the entrance to the fortified enclosure
+to the palace, where we took leave of each other, and he went home,
+and I went to the Residency, which I reached at four o'clock, my wife
+and children having made a short cut.
+
+The Residency then was a low and dark bungalow built of wattle
+and daub, and thatched. It had one large room in the centre, and a
+bedroom on either side with a small semicircular room in front and
+rear of the centre room; there was one bathroom (I speedily added
+more), and verandahs nearly all round. There were venetians to the
+windows, but no glass, and the house was very dark and very full of
+mosquitoes. However, all had been done by the Residency establishment
+to make the place comfortable, and we were too old travellers and
+too accustomed to rough it, to grumble. The house might be rude and
+uncomfortable, but some of my happiest days were spent in it. The
+building was at the end of a garden, with some nice mango, and other
+trees here and there, and had a little more ground attached to it,
+but we were on all sides surrounded by squalid villages and filthy
+tanks and cesspools, and the situation was very low, though well
+drained. Our English nurse grumbled incessantly, but we had engaged
+in advance, a nice pleasant Naga woman, named Chowkee, to help her,
+and soon made everything right for the night, but the mosquitoes were
+terrible, and though my life has been spent in countries swarming
+with them, I give Manipur the palm, it beats all others!
+
+No European lady or children of pure blood had ever before been
+seen in Manipur, and at first there was great excitement wherever
+we went, all the population turning out to look at us. By degrees
+they became accustomed to the novelty, but still occasionally people
+from distant villages coming to the capital stopped to stare. Every
+now and then my wife had visits from strange old ladies, often from
+the Kola Ranee, the widow of the last Rajah of Assam, and by birth a
+Manipuri princess, daughter of Rajah Chomjeet, and first cousin of
+the Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. Once an old woman of 106 years
+of age, with a daughter of 76, were visitors, and once or twice some
+other relic of a bygone age called on us. Among the latter was old
+Ram Singh, the last survivor of Wilcox's famous survey expeditions in
+Assam, in 1825-26-27-28. Wilcox was one of the giants of old, men who
+with limited resources, did a vast amount of work among wild people,
+and said little about it, being contented with doing their duty. In
+1828, accompanied by Lieutenant Burton, and ten men belonging to the
+Sudya Khamptis (Shans), he penetrated to the Bor Khamptis country, far
+beyond our borders, an exploit not repeated till after our annexation
+of Upper Burmah. Ram Singh had a great respect for his former leader,
+and loved to talk of old days.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Visit to the Maharajah--His minister--Former revolutions--Thangal
+    Major.
+
+
+After a day's rest I paid a visit to the Maharajah, having first
+stipulated as to my proper reception. I was received by the Jubraj
+(heir apparent) at the entrance to the private part of the palace,
+and by the Maharajah a few paces from the entrance to the Durbar room
+(hall of reception), and conducted by him to a seat opposite to his
+own, with a table between us, his sons and officials being seated on
+either side. I read the Viceroy's letter, informing the Maharajah of
+my appointment, and, after a short conversation, during which my age
+was asked (a question invariably put to European officers by Manipuris
+of rank), I took my leave, and was escorted back to the place where
+I was met on my arrival. I was favourably impressed by what I saw,
+but I at once realised that I was on no bed of roses, and that I would
+have to make a good fight to obtain and maintain my just influence with
+the Durbar. The Maharajah had undoubtedly grievances against us, and I
+felt that it was folly and injustice not to acknowledge these. At the
+same time, he and his ministers had on some occasions taken advantage
+of this state of affairs to behave in an unseemly way, and for this a
+sharp rebuke had to be administered. The natural sense of injustice
+is strong in mankind, and I saw that chafing under slights they had
+received, and often magnifying them, it was necessary for me first to
+acknowledge these, and try as far as possible to make amends, and then
+to come down on them very sharply for having forgotten their position.
+
+The Maharajah returned my visit, and we had one or two interviews
+when we discussed affairs. I pointed out the extreme gravity of
+resisting the British Government in any way, and we soon became
+very friendly. Colonel McCulloch's introduction had been a great
+advantage to me, and every one was inclined to give me credit for good
+intentions, at the same time that every effort was made to restrict
+my authority and influence.
+
+The Maharajah was a rather thick-set man of about five feet five
+inches in height and forty-five years of age. In India he would have
+been called fair. He had the features of the Indo-Chinese race, and the
+impassive face that generally goes with them, but which is often not so
+marked in the Manipuris. He was far the ablest man in his dominions,
+and a strong and capable ruler. He had a great taste for mechanical
+arts of all kinds, and a vast fund of information which he had acquired
+by questioning, for he questioned every one he met. English scientific
+works were explained to him, and his researches extended even to the
+anatomy of the human body, of which he had a very fair knowledge. He
+had a taste for European articles, and owned a large assortment. He had
+glass manufactured in his workshops, and once sent me a petroleum lamp,
+every portion of which was made by his own artificers. His rule, for
+such a strong man, was mild as compared with that of his predecessors,
+and he thoroughly realised that his prosperity depended on his loyalty
+to the British Government. At the same time, he was most tenacious
+of his rights, and earnestly desired to preserve his country intact,
+and to give us no excuse for annexing it.
+
+The fear of tempting us to annex was so great that, once when I
+thought of growing a little tea for my own consumption, he was much
+agitated. I, as a matter of courtesy, first sent to ask him if he
+had any objection to my growing a little, and, in reply, he sent an
+official to beg me not to think of it. This man said, "The Maharajah
+will supply you with all the tea you want free of cost, but begs you
+not to think of growing it." The officer went on to explain, that
+it was feared that, if I successfully demonstrated that tea could
+be grown in Manipur tea planters would come up, and there would be a
+cry for annexation! Certainly our annexation of the Muttuk country in
+1840 justified the suspicion, and we cannot blame people for having
+long memories.
+
+The Jubraj, or heir apparent, was an amiable young man of twenty-six or
+twenty-seven, with a pleasant smile which was wanting in his father. He
+was of a weak character, although possessing some ability. Like
+his father, he could speak Hindoostani, but both were ignorant of
+English. Backed up and influenced by an honest and capable Political
+Agent, he would probably have made an excellent ruler, and, had we
+done our duty by him, he might now be at the head of a flourishing
+little state, instead of having died an exile in Calcutta.
+
+The next son, Wankai Rakpar, afterwards known as the "Regent" during
+the recent troubles, was an ignorant, uncouth boor, who knew no
+language but his own, and was quite unfitted for any responsible work;
+he took little part in public affairs. The third known as Samoo Henjaba
+(Master of the Elephants), was a clever, pleasant, sensible young man,
+said by Thangal Major, no mean judge of character, to be the ablest
+of the ten sons of the Maharajah. He died during my tenure of office.
+
+The fourth son, Kotwal Koireng, who afterwards acquired an infamous
+reputation as the "Senaputtee," was always a bad character, cruel,
+coarse, and low minded. From early childhood he was given to foul
+language, and was absolutely dangerous when he grew up. His mother
+had been unfaithful to the Maharajah, who used to say that the son
+was worthy of her. Colonel McCulloch had always disliked him as a boy.
+
+None of the other six sons of the Maharajah were in my time mixed up
+in public affairs, so I need not describe them, except that Pucca
+Senna was the champion polo player, though not otherwise worthy of
+notice. The practical ministers were Bularam Singh, or Sawai Jamba
+Major, and Thangal Major. They were both faithful adherents of the
+Maharajah, although the first who had once had much influence had
+married the daughter of the former Rajah Nur Sing. He was nominally
+the first in rank, but Thangal Major was rapidly gaining ground,
+and viewed with increasing favour by the Maharajah.
+
+I quote the following description of the Government of Manipur from an
+article I wrote for The Nineteenth Century, by kind permission of the
+editor. "The government of Manipur has always been a pure despotism
+tempered by assassination and revolution. While he occupies the throne
+the rajah is perfectly absolute. A minister may be all powerful,
+and all the princes and people may tremble before him; for years he
+may practically rule the rajah; but he is after all a cipher before
+his sovereign, a single word from whom may send him into exile, make
+him an outcast, or reduce him to the lowest rank. Yet with all this
+power an obscure man may suddenly spring up, as if from the ground,
+to assert himself to be of the blood royal, and gathering a large
+party round him place himself on the throne. All this happened not
+unfrequently in days gone by, when many were the rajahs murdered
+or deposed. History tells us of rajahs being deposed, re-elected,
+and deposed again."
+
+There can be no doubt that in old days the people benefited by the
+system of constant revolutions, as a rajah was obliged to keep in touch
+with his subjects if he wished to occupy the throne for any length of
+time, and many concessions were made to gain a strong following. The
+average intelligence of the Manipuris being higher than that found
+among the cultivators of many other native states, the people knew
+what reforms to ask for, and often insisted on their being granted.
+
+Nothing can be harder on the people of a native state, than for the
+paramount power to hold a ruler on the throne with a firm grasp,
+and protect him against internal revolution, and at the same time to
+refrain from insisting on needful reform.
+
+Chandra Kirtee Singh's long reign and strong government, were in many
+ways a great benefit to the people, because he was a man of sound
+sense, and though selfish and unscrupulous, naturally of a kindly
+disposition, a fact proved by the few executions that took place in his
+reign. In his earlier years he had the benefit of Colonel McCulloch's
+good advice, enforced by his great influence. All the same there
+can be no doubt that a little more interference judiciously applied,
+would have vastly improved the state of affairs during the time he
+occupied the throne. Of course an individual Political Agent might
+bring about improvements in the administration, but these all rested
+on his personal influence and lasted only while he remained. Had the
+Government of India stepped in and exerted its authority they would
+have been permanent.
+
+Bularam Singh was a typical Manipuri in face and had good manners,
+but he had no force of character, and gradually yielded to his more
+able colleague. He was generally known as the Toolee-Hel major, i.e.,
+the major or commander of the Hel regiment.
+
+Thangal Major was a remarkable character, and had a chequered
+history. His uncle had saved the life of Rajah Ghumbeer Singh (Chandra
+Kirtee Singh's father), then a child, when his older brother Marjeet
+attempted the murder of all his relations. Thangal Major was one of
+the props of the throne when Ghumbeer Singh ascended it. He had been
+introduced at Court at an early age, and accompanied the Rajah in
+an expedition against the village of Thangal inhabited by a tribe
+of Nagas. He was given the name Thangal in memory of the event. He
+accompanied the old Ranee with her infant son Chandra Kirtee Singh
+into exile, when she fled after attempting the Regent Nursing's
+life while he was engaged in worship in the temple of Govindjee in
+1844; had stayed with him and carefully watched over his childhood
+and youth. When in 1850 the young Rajah came to Manipur to assert
+his rights, Thangal accompanied him and greatly contributed to his
+success. This naturally made him a favourite, and his bold, active,
+energetic character always brought him to the front when hard or
+dangerous work had to be done. For a time he fell into disfavour,
+but Colonel McCulloch, recognising his strong and useful qualities,
+and the fact that he was an exceedingly able man, interceded for him
+with the Maharajah, and he again came to the front. In person he was
+short and thickset, darker than the average of Manipuris, with piercing
+eyes and rather a prominent nose, a pleasant and straightforward but
+abrupt manner, and, though a very devoted and patriotic Manipuri,
+was extremely partial to Europeans. He knew our ways well, and soon
+took a man's measure. He was acquainted with every part of Manipur,
+and, though ignorant of English, could point out any village in
+the state, on an English map. In fact, he had studied geography in
+every branch to enable him to defend the cause of Manipur against
+the survey officers who were suspected by the Manipuris of wishing
+to include all they could within British territory. He knew all our
+technical terms such as "watershed" in English, and had gained much
+credit for enabling the survey to carry on their work in 1872, when
+the patriotic but ill-judged zeal of an older officer, Rooma Singh,
+nearly brought about a rupture. Thangal Major's knowledge of us and
+our customs, as well as of our moral code, was astonishing. He realised
+the power of the British Government, and though he would resist us to
+the utmost in the interests of Manipur, nothing would have induced
+him to join in any plot against our rule in India. When I say that
+he was unscrupulous and capable of anything, I only say that he was
+what circumstances and education had made him, and would make any
+man under similar conditions. He had not the polish of a native of
+Western India, and had not had the advantage of English training that
+many ministers in other states have. The internal administration of
+Manipur had never been interfered with by us, and Thangal Major was
+the strong able man of the old type. A strong and capable political
+agent might do well with him, but a weak one would soon go to the
+wall. He commanded the Toolee Nehah, and was often called by that
+title, but was better known as Thangal Major.
+
+One of my predecessors had quarrelled with Thangal Major, and this
+had led to recrimination, and very unseemly conduct on the part of the
+Durbar. This conduct I had rebuked as directed, but it was a question
+as to how Thangal Major was to be dealt with. I was authorised to
+demand his dismissal from office, and for some time he had not been
+received by my two immediate predecessors. I made careful inquiries,
+and feeling convinced that there was a good deal to be said on
+Thangal's side, and that by careful management I should be able to
+keep him well in hand, I sent for him. The old man, he was then sixty,
+having been born in 1817, came in a quiet unostentatious way, and after
+a severe rebuke, and receiving an ample apology from him, I forgave
+him, and restored him to the position of minister in attendance upon
+me; and thenceforth I saw him daily, generally for an hour or two.
+
+In addition to the Minister, two Subadars, Lowremba and Moirang,
+were placed in attendance on me, but as time went on, and I and the
+Durbar became friends, we transacted business in a friendly way,
+through any one.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Manipur--Early history--Our connection with it--Ghumbeer
+    Singh--Burmese war.
+
+
+Manipur consists of about 8000 square miles, chiefly hills surrounding
+a valley 650 square miles in extent. This valley from north to south
+is about 35 miles, and from east to west 25. The capital Imphal,
+as it formerly existed, was a large mass of villages looking like a
+forest from the neighbouring heights, and covering about 15 square
+miles. Every house was in the centre of its own well-planted garden,
+and every garden contained a few forest trees. The census of 1881 gave
+the population of the capital as 60,000, that of the rest of the valley
+an equal number, while the hills were estimated to have 100,000. It
+was only in the capital that pure Manipuris lived, except the soldiers
+in the military posts which were scattered all over the country.
+
+The valley itself is 2600 feet above the sea, and the hills rise
+on an average to an equal height above it, though here and there
+some of the distant peaks are 10,000 to 12,000 feet in height. Thus
+Manipur contains within its borders a variety of climate from almost
+tropical, to a greater cold than that of England. The heat is never
+very excessive in the valley, and for eight months in the year it is
+most enjoyable. Foreigners suffer much from bronchial affections,
+doubtless owing to the waterlogged soil, but these complaints are
+not more prevalent among the native population than elsewhere, and
+if sanitary laws were properly observed, the valley might be a most
+healthy place and the population would rapidly overflow.
+
+The capital is almost intersected by the 25th parallel north latitude,
+and 95� east longitude, and is 132 miles by road from Silchar, the
+capital of Cachar, and 70 from Tamu in the Kubo valley. The valley of
+Manipur forms the centre of a chain of valleys, viz., Cachar, Manipur,
+and Kubo, connecting Bengal with Burmah proper. The sides of the
+hills facing the valley of Manipur are generally covered with grass
+or scant jungle which rapidly dries up as the cold season advances,
+but when once the crest is passed, a fine forest is reached; except
+where the hill-tribes have destroyed it, to raise one crop and then
+let it relapse into grass and scrub. Alas, I have seen noble oak
+forests laid low and burned for this purpose. It is an abominable
+custom, and nothing can justify our permitting it where we hold
+sway. That it is not necessary is shown by the Angamis and some of
+the Tankhool tribes, who though they do occasionally indulge in this
+wasteful cultivation are quite independent of it, as they terrace
+their hillsides and cultivate the same tract for generations. The
+forests of Manipur are plentifully supplied with fine timber trees;
+several varieties of oak and chestnut exist, and many others unknown
+in England such as Woo-Ningtho, an excellent timber said to resist the
+ravages of white ants; wang, which can be worked in its green state
+as it never warps; teak, etc. Fir trees are found in abundance to the
+south, east, and north-east of the valley, and bamboos of many kinds,
+including the giant, are plentiful.
+
+Rhododendrons and wild azaleas of several kinds, as well as many
+species of brilliant orchids, add greatly to the beauty of the forests,
+and in some parts tree ferns are abundant. I know nothing more lovely
+in the world, than some of the forest scenery of Manipur with its
+solemn stillness.
+
+The early history of Manipur is lost in obscurity, but there can be
+no doubt that it has existed as an independent kingdom from a very
+early period. In the days when the Indian branch of the Aryan race
+was still in its progressive and colonising stage, this district
+was repeatedly passed over by one wave after another of invaders,
+intent on penetrating into the remotest parts of Burmah. We have no
+means of ascertaining what government it had before the year 700 A.D.,
+but it is believed that a monarchy prevailed at that era. About the
+year 1250 A.D., a large Chinese force invaded the country, and was
+signally defeated; all who were not killed being made prisoners. These
+taught the Manipuris silk culture, and a number of them were settled
+at Susa Rameng in the valley, where they have still descendants. The
+Chinese also taught the art of brick-making, and erected two solid
+blocks of masonry in the palace, between which the road to the Lion
+Gate passed. These blocks were levelled with the ground by the Burmese
+invaders, but rebuilt on the old foundations by Ghumbeer Singh.
+
+Manipur in old days possessed a famous breed of ponies, larger and
+better bred than the so-called Burmese ponies that come from the Shan
+states. On these ponies were mounted the formidable cavalry that
+in the last century made Manipur feared throughout Upper Burmah,
+and enabled her rulers on more than one occasion, to carry their
+victorious arms within sight of Ava, where their Rajah Pamheiba erected
+a stone pillar to commemorate the event. The cavalry used the regular
+Manipuri saddle protecting the legs, and were armed with spears and
+two quivers of darts. These darts in a retreat were grasped by a loop
+and swung round in a peculiar way, when the shaft formed of peacock
+feathers with an iron head suddenly became detached, and flying with
+great force inflicted a fatal wound wherever it struck. A skilful
+man could throw them with great precision.
+
+The territories of Manipur varied according to the mettle of its
+rulers. Sometimes they held a considerable territory east of the
+Chindwin river in subjection, at other times only the Kubo valley,
+a strip of territory, inhabited, not by Burmese, but by Shans, and
+lying between Manipur proper and the Chindwin. Again they were driven
+back into Manipur proper. For the greater part of the last century,
+the Kubo valley unquestionably belonged to Manipur, and it was never
+in any sense a Burmese province, being, when not under Manipur,
+a feudatory of the great Shan kingdom of Pong.
+
+In the middle of the last century one of those extraordinary men who
+appear from time to time in the East, destined to shine like a blazing
+meteor, imparting exceeding brilliancy to their country, and then as
+suddenly vanishing, so that it returns to its original obscurity,
+appeared in Burmah. His name, Along Pra, has been corrupted by us
+into Alompra, by which he is always known. He speedily raised Burmah
+to a commanding position. The kingdom of Pong was overthrown and
+its territories mostly annexed, Pegu was conquered, our district of
+Chittagong threatened, and Siam forced to relinquish several coveted
+possessions. The war fever did not die with Alompra, and in 1817 and
+1819 Assam and Manipur were respectively invaded, internal dissensions
+having bred traitors, who, in both countries, made the path of the
+invaders easy. But the master spirit was gone, and when we appeared
+upon the scene, they could make no efficient stand. Had we then marched
+to Ava, the Burmese Empire would have collapsed like a house of cards,
+and the events of 1885 been anticipated by sixty years. As it was, we
+did not realise our strength and the Burmese weakness, and contented
+ourselves with annexing Assam and Cachar and protecting Manipur.
+
+It is not very evident what the religion of Manipur was in early days,
+but we see no trace of Buddhism. Probably, whatever the belief in
+early years when the people may have been affected by the intermittent
+stream of Aryans passing through, for many centuries no religious rites
+were used before the recent rise of Hindooism, further than to appease
+evil spirits, as is the custom of the surrounding tribes. There can be
+little doubt that some time or other the Naga tribes to the north made
+one of their chiefs Rajah of Manipur, and that his family, while, like
+the Manchus in China and other conquerors, adopting the civilisation
+of the country, retained some of their old customs. This is shown in
+the curious practice at the installation of a Rajah, when he and the
+Ranee appear in Naga costume; also that he always has in his palace
+a house built like a Naga's, and wherever he goes he is attended by
+two or three Manipuris with Naga arms and accoutrements. I once told
+a Manipuri what I thought on the subject, and he was greatly struck
+by it, and admitted the force of what I said.
+
+Towards the middle of the last century, for some reason or other,
+a great Hindoo revival took place in the East of India. Assam was
+once Hindoo but had long become Buddhist under its Ahom kings,
+and now became converted to Hindooism, by Brahmins from Bengal. All
+difficulties were smoothed over, and converts were made by tens of
+thousands. It is to be regretted that it was so, as these "converts"
+quickly deteriorated. The easy conquest of Hindooised Assam by the
+Burmese, when Buddhist Assam had successfully resisted a powerful army
+sent by Arungzebe from India and composed largely of recruits from
+Central Asia, seems proof of it, if all other evidence were wanting.
+
+The process of conversion in Manipur began a generation later than in
+Assam, and proceeded on somewhat different lines, but it was not less
+effective, and was still going on at a late date. It had not the same
+deteriorating effect, for the Rajahs assumed to themselves a position
+greater than that of High Pontiff, and could at any time by their
+simple fiat have changed the religion of the country and degraded
+all the Brahmins, in fact all admissions to the Hindoo pale from the
+outer world of unorthodoxy were made by the Rajah himself. Sometimes
+the inhabitants of a village were elevated en masse from the level
+of outcasts, to that of Hindoos of pure caste, but more often single
+individuals were "converted." A man belonging to a hill-tribe, for
+instance, could, if the Rajah chose, at any time receive the sacred
+thread of the twice-born castes, and on payment of a small sum of money
+be admitted as a Hindoo and was thenceforth called a Khetree. [16]
+This privilege was not accorded to Mussulmans. I once asked a Manipuri
+why they received hill-men and not Mussulmans, both being Mlechas, [17]
+according to Hindoo theory. He said it was because the hill people had
+sinned in ignorance, whereas Mussulmans knew the evil of their ways.
+
+Of course, every one who knows anything of Hindooism is aware that
+theoretically a man must be born a Hindoo, and that proselytism
+is not admitted. Practically, however, this rule is ignored on the
+eastern frontier, and all along it from Sudya down to Chittagong,
+where conversions are daily taking place. I remember villages in
+Assam where caste was unknown thirty-five years ago, but where now the
+people live in the odour of sanctity as highly orthodox and bigoted
+Hindoos. Strange to say, the pure Hindoos of the North-West Provinces
+acknowledge the pretensions of these spurious converts sufficiently so
+as to allow of their drinking water brought by them. It is probably
+easier to take the people at their own valuation than to carry water
+one's self from a distance when tired. By the religious law of the
+Hindoos, it is forbidden to eat or drink anything touched by one of
+another tribe.
+
+Our first relations with Manipur date from 1762, when Governor
+Verelst of the Bengal Presidency--with that splendid self-reliance and
+large-mindedness characteristic of the makers of the British Indian
+Empire, men who acted instead of talking, and were always ready to
+extend our responsibilities when advisable--entered into a treaty with
+the Rajah of Manipur. As this treaty came to nothing, practically our
+connection with the little state really dates from 1823. It had been
+invaded by the Burmese in 1819, and its people driven out or carried
+off into slavery in Burmah. The royal family were fugitives.
+
+At that time Sylhet was our frontier station, and our relations with
+the Burmese, who were at the highest pitch of their power, were
+daily becoming more strained. On our side of the frontier we were
+ably represented by Mr. David Scott, agent to the Governor-General,
+and preparations were being made for the inevitable struggle. One
+day a young Manipuri prince waited on Mr. Scott and asked leave
+to raise a Manipuri force to fight on our side. He was short and
+slight, and of indomitable courage and energy, and the agent to
+the Governor-General recognising his ability, allowed him to raise
+500 men. These were soon increased to 2000, cavalry, infantry and
+artillery. Two English officers, Captain F. Grant and Lieutenant
+R. B. Pemberton, were attached to the force, thenceforth called the
+Manipur Levy, to drill and discipline it.
+
+In 1825 a general advance was made all along our line, Cachar was
+invaded and subdued, and we essayed to pursue the enemy into Manipur
+and thence into Burmah, but our transport arrangements failed. Hitherto
+we had been accustomed to wars in the arid plains of India, and our
+military authorities did not realise the necessities of an expedition
+into the eastern jungles. Hence, camels and bullocks were sent to
+dislocate their limbs in the tenacious mud and swamps of Cachar,
+and when the advance into Manipur was desired, our regular troops
+were powerless. At this crisis the Manipur Levy showed its immense
+value. The men could move lightly equipped without the paraphernalia
+of a regular army, and advance they did, and with such effect that in
+a short time not only was Manipur cleared, but the enemy driven out
+of the Kubo valley. Later on, Ghumbeer Singh was recognised as Rajah
+of Manipur, and the Kubo valley was included within his territories.
+
+Manipur at this time contained only 2000 inhabitants, the miserable
+remnants of a thriving population of at least 400,000, possibly
+600,000, that existed before the invasion. Ghumbeer Singh's task was to
+encourage exiles to return, and to attempt to rebuild the prosperity
+of his little kingdom. He was a wise and strong though severe ruler,
+and though he owed his throne greatly to his own efforts, he to the
+last retained the deepest feelings of loyalty and gratitude to the
+British Government, promptly obeying all its orders and doing his
+utmost to impress the same feeling on all his officers.
+
+As is always the case, though we had carried all before us in the
+war, we began to display great weakness afterwards. We had an agent,
+Colonel Burney, at Ava, and the Burmese who were not disposed to be
+at all friendly, constantly tried to impress on him the fact that
+all difficulties and disputes would be at an end if we ceded the
+Kubo valley to them, that territory belonging to our ally Ghumbeer
+Singh of Manipur. Of course the proposal ought to have been rejected
+with scorn, and a severe snub given to the Burmese officials. The
+advisers of the Government of India, however, being generally officers
+brought up in the Secretariat, and with little practical knowledge of
+Asiatics, the manly course was not followed. It was not realised that
+a display of self-confidence and strength is the best diplomacy with
+people like the Burmese, and with a view to winning their good-will
+we basely consented to deprive our gallant and loyal ally of part
+of his territories. An attempt was made to negotiate with him, but
+Major Grant said, "It is no use bargaining with Ghumbeer Singh,"
+and refused to take any part in it. He was asked what compensation
+should be given, and he said 6000 sicca rupees per annum.
+
+When Ghumbeer Singh heard the final decision he quietly accepted
+it, saying, "You gave it me and you can take it away. I accept your
+decree." The proposed transfer was very distasteful to many of the
+inhabitants, including the Sumjok (Thoungdoot) Tsawbwa, [18] but they
+were not consulted. The Kubo valley was handed over to the Burmese
+on the 9th of January, 1834, and on that day Ghumbeer Singh died in
+Manipur of cholera. Perhaps he was happy in the hour of his death,
+as he felt the treatment of our Government most severely.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of him--Nur Singh and
+    attempt on his life--McCulloch--His wisdom and generosity--My
+    establishment--Settlement of frontier dispute.
+
+
+Ghumbeer Singh did much for Manipur during his comparatively short
+reign. He made all the roads in his territory safe, and subdued the
+different hill-tribes who had asserted their independence during
+the troubles with Burmah. Imphal, the old capital, had not been
+re-occupied, though the sacred spot where the temple of Govindjee
+stood was cared for; but a new palace had been built at Langthabal
+at a distance of three and a half miles from Imphal where several
+fine masonry buildings were erected, and a canal dug for the annual
+boat races. Langthabal [19] was deserted in 1844 and the old site
+re-occupied, and in my time, the buildings at Langthabal were
+picturesque ruins, having been greatly injured by time and the
+earthquakes of 1869 and 1880. Ghumbeer Singh left an infant son,
+Chandra Kirtee Singh who was two years of age at his father's death
+and a distant cousin, Nur Singh, was appointed Regent. Contrary to all
+precedent, the Regent was loyal to his charge and governed well and
+ably for the infant prince, in spite of constant attempts to overthrow
+his government. In 1844, the Queen-Mother wishing to govern herself,
+attempted to procure Nur Singh's murder as he was at prayers in the
+temple. She failed and fled with her son the young Rajah Chandra
+Kirtee Singh to British territory. The Regent then proclaimed himself
+Rajah with the consent of all the people. The Manipur Levy had been
+maintained up till 1835 when the Government of India withdrew their
+connection from it, and ceased to pay the men. Major Grant left
+Manipur, and Captain Gordon, who had been adjutant since 1827, was
+made Political Agent of Manipur. Captain Pemberton had long since
+been on special survey duty.
+
+Captain Gordon died in December 1844. He was much liked and long
+remembered by the people whom he had greatly benefited, among other
+ways by introducing English vegetables, and fruits. He was succeeded
+by Lieutenant (afterwards Colonel) McCulloch.
+
+Rajah Nur Singh died in 1850, and was succeeded by his brother
+Debindro, a weak man, quite unfit for the position. In 1850, young
+Chandra Kirtee Singh invaded the valley with a body of followers,
+Debindro fled, and he mounted the throne without opposition. Up to
+this time the Government of India had always acknowledged the de facto
+Rajah of Manipur, and revolutions with much accompanying bloodshed
+were common. Now, however, McCulloch strongly urged the advisability
+of supporting Chandra Kirtee Singh, and he received authority to
+"make a public avowal of the determination of the British Government
+to uphold the present Rajah and to resist and punish any parties
+attempting hereafter to dispossess him." The Court of Directors of
+the East India Company, in a despatch dated May 5th, 1852, confirmed
+the order of the Government of India and commented thus: "The position
+you have assumed of pledged protector of the Rajah, imposes on you as
+a necessary consequence the obligation of attempting to guide him,
+by your advice, but if needful of protecting his subjects against
+oppression on his part; otherwise our guarantee of his rule may be
+the cause of inflicting on them a continuance of reckless tyranny."
+
+These words of justice and wisdom were steadily ignored by successive
+governments. On no occasion did the Government of India ever seriously
+remonstrate with the Rajah, or make a sustained effort to improve
+his system of administration. The East India Company's order became
+a dead letter, but the resolution to uphold Chandra Kirtee Singh
+bore good fruit, and during his long reign of thirty-five years no
+successful attempt against his authority was ever made, and he on
+his part displayed unswerving fidelity to the British Government.
+
+I have already mentioned the great work that Colonel McCulloch
+accomplished with regard to the Kukis. This added to his long
+experience, gave him great influence in the State, and when he
+retired from the service in 1861, it was amidst the regrets of the
+whole people. Able, high-minded, respected, and having accomplished
+a task few could even have attempted, he left without honour or
+reward from his Government. How many men of inferior capacity,
+and quite without his old-fashioned single-minded devotion to duty,
+are nowadays covered with stars! When he left he made every effort
+to hand over his vast power and influence intact to his successor,
+and to smooth his way as much as possible. Had the Government of
+India exercised the slightest tact and discretion in the selection of
+its agent, he might have carried on the good work so ably commenced,
+and brought Manipur by rapid strides into the path of progress. As it
+was it would have been difficult to find an officer more unfitted to
+succeed Colonel McCulloch than the one selected; he was soon involved
+in difficulties, and after a troubled period was ordered by Government
+to leave at three days' notice. For a time the agency remained vacant,
+but the Rajah applied for another officer, and Colonel McCulloch was
+requested by the Government to quit his retirement, and again assume
+charge. He did so, and was received with acclamations by Rajah and
+people, the whole State turning out to meet him. His first effort was
+to restore the confidence forfeited by the late political agent, and
+everything went on as smoothly as ever; but, towards the end of 1867,
+he finally retired, staying on a few days after his successor's arrival
+to post him up in his work. This time it would have been thought that
+some judgment would be shown in the selection of an officer for the
+post; but the next political agent was eminently unfitted and for
+some years before his death in 1876, was on very indifferent terms
+with the Durbar.
+
+During the brief period that elapsed between the last event and my
+taking charge, two different officers held the post.
+
+My Government establishment consisted of a head clerk, a most excellent
+man, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo; a native doctor, Lachman Parshad;
+native secretary and Manipuri interpreter; Burmese interpreter;
+Naga interpreter; Kuki interpreter; and latterly six chuprassies,
+i.e., orderlies or lictors. As for private servants we had three Naga
+girls, a Mugh cook and assistant, who could turn out a dinner equal to
+any of the London clubs for one hundred people at a couple of days'
+notice, and under him I had four young Nagas learning their work,
+as I was determined to do more for my successors than my predecessors
+had done for me, viz., teach and train up a staff of servants so as
+to save the necessity of importing the scum of Calcutta. I had an
+excellent bearer, Horna, as I have already stated, and under him were
+two or three Nagas; washermen, syces, gardeners, water-carriers,
+etc., made up the number. All my interpreters, chuprassies, and
+servants, I clothed in scarlet livery which made a great impression,
+and gradually the air of squalor which prevailed when I arrived began
+to disappear. I had charge of a Government Treasury from which I used
+to pay myself and the Government establishment. The currency of the
+country was a small bell-metal coin called "Sel," of which 400 to
+480 went to the rupee, also current, but copper pice were not used,
+and all Manipuri accounts were kept in "Sel."
+
+At this time the Naga Hills were still under a political officer
+whose actual jurisdiction was limited to the villages which had paid
+tribute to me, as already described. He was supposed to exercise a
+certain influence over many of the large villages, but the influence
+was lessened by the feeling entertained by the Nagas that our stay
+in the hills was uncertain, and that for all practical purposes the
+Manipuris were the power most to be reckoned with, and from our
+point of view it was very desirable that our headquarter station
+should be removed to Kohima. A dispute with Mozuma, due chiefly to
+our vacillating conduct, was now going on, but its chiefs would not
+accept our terms, and an expedition to coerce them was in preparation
+in which I was to take part. Mr. Carnegy was political officer, a man
+of ability and determination, and very pleasant to deal with. During
+the dispute with Mozuma, the other villages held aloof, thinking Mozuma
+was able to hold its own, and waiting to see which side gained the day.
+
+Burmah was still under its native rulers. There were constant frontier
+disputes going on between it and Manipur, but that state of things
+was chronic.
+
+To the south of Manipur, the Chin and Lushai tribes were quiet.
+
+There was a long standing boundary dispute between Manipur and the
+Naga Hills. The boundary had been most arbitrarily settled by us
+when the survey was carried out, so far as a certain point, beyond
+that it was vague. Manipur claimed territory which we certainly did
+not possess, and which she had visited from time to time, but did not
+actually hold in subjection. Other portions, as I afterwards proved,
+were occupied by her, though the fact had not been ascertained. Over
+and over again efforts had been made to bring the Durbar to terms,
+but without success. I determined to grapple with the question at
+once. I took a map and drew a line including all that I thought Manipur
+entitled to, in the neighbourhood of the Naga Hills, and advised the
+Maharajah to accept the arrangement on the understanding that when I
+visited the country claimed further eastward, I would recommend the
+Government of India to allow him to retain all that he actually held in
+his possession. This was agreed to by him and confirmed by Government,
+and I believe that substantial justice was done to both parties.
+
+I should like to have seen Manipur get more, as a set-off against our
+unjust treatment in former years, but as we were sure eventually, to
+occupy all the Naga Hills, it was necessary to make such an adjustment
+as would not injure British interests in the future.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    My early days in Manipur--The capital--The inhabitants--Good
+    qualities of Manipuris--Origin of valley of Manipur--Expedition
+    to the Naga Hills--Lovely scenery--Attack on Kongal Tannah by
+    Burmese--Return from Naga Hills--Visit Kongal Tannah.
+
+
+The first few weeks in Manipur were taken up in making acquaintance
+with the place and people, and doing all that was possible to disarm
+the fears of the Durbar. Never was there one so suspicious. At
+first all my movements were watched, and wherever I went spies,
+open or secret, followed; however, I encouraged it to the utmost,
+and told the officials to inquire into everything I did, and they
+very soon saw that there was no necessity for special espionage,
+though all my acts were still noted and reported. Several little
+difficulties cropped up regarding British subjects, and required some
+care in dealing with them. In one case, a man had taken upon himself
+to intrigue with some of the Nagas under Manipur, and urged them to
+declare themselves British subjects, and in another, a man had robbed
+the Maharajah. In both instances the Durbar had acted foolishly and
+precipitately, though under much provocation. However, I turned both
+men out of the country, with orders never to return.
+
+The question of British subjects and their rights was one that gave
+me much trouble for years. Judging by a decision of the High Court
+of Calcutta that all the descendants of European British subjects
+were European British subjects, I insisted on all descendants
+of British subjects being considered as such, and subject to my
+jurisdiction. After a long struggle I carried my point, and it very
+greatly strengthened my position.
+
+A few more words about the capital and the Manipuris may not be
+amiss. Imphal, as has been said, [20] covered a space of fifteen
+square miles. On the north side it touches on some low hills, called
+Ching-mai-roong, and running westward is bounded by a shallow lake,
+which is partly enclosed by a continuation of the hills, here called
+Langol, on which grows a celebrated cane used for polo sticks. Then,
+running south, it is intersected by several roads, notably the road
+to Silchar, which enters the capital at a place called Kooak-Kaithel
+(i.e. crow bazaar). Here it is bounded by rice cultivation. Going
+farther south, and sweeping round in an easterly direction, it is
+bounded by the Plain of Lang-thabal, at one extremity of which lies
+the old capital; here two rivers intersect it. And going farther east,
+it is bounded by the lower slopes of a hill rising 2500 feet above the
+valley. Then turning to the northward and crossing two rivers, we come
+again to the place from which we started. The want of the town was a
+good water-supply; there were one or two fair-sized tanks, or ponds,
+as they would be called in England, and the afore-mentioned rivers,
+of which the water is not improved by receiving the ashes of the
+dead burned on their banks. Beyond this, all the water obtainable was
+derived from small ponds, one or more of which was to be found in every
+garden enclosure. The ground on which the capital stands must at one
+time have been very low, probably a marsh, and it has been artificially
+raised from time to time by digging these tanks; every raised road,
+too, meant a deep stagnant ditch on either side. The people are not
+sanitary in their habits, and when heavy rain falls the gardens are
+flooded, and a fair share of the accumulated filth is washed into
+the drinking-tanks, the result being frequent epidemics of cholera.
+
+The Manipuris themselves are a fine stalwart race descended from an
+Indo-Chinese stock, with some admixture of Aryan blood, derived from
+the successive waves of Aryan invaders that have passed through the
+valley in prehistoric days. It may be this, or from an admixture of
+Chinese blood, but certainly the Manipuris have stable and industrious
+qualities which the Burmese and Shans do not possess. Since then the
+race has been constantly fed by additions from the various hill-tribes
+surrounding the valley. The result is a fairly homogeneous people of
+great activity and energy, with much of the Japanese aptitude for
+acquiring new arts. The men seem capable of learning anything, and
+the women are famous as weavers, and in many cases have completely
+killed out the manufacture of cloths formerly peculiar to certain
+of the hill-tribes, over whom the Manipuris have obtained mastery
+by superior intellect. They are always cheerful, even on a long and
+trying march, and are good-humoured under any difficulties and never
+apparently conscious of fatigue. They are very abstemious, and live
+chiefly on rice and fish, which is often rotten from preference. Though
+rigid Hindoos outwardly, they have a curious custom by which a man
+of low caste, marrying a high-caste woman, can be adopted into her
+tribe, the exact reverse of what prevails in India, where a woman of
+high caste marrying a low-caste man is hopelessly degraded and her
+children outcasts.
+
+It is impossible for those who have marched much in the hills with
+Manipuris to avoid liking them. Their caste prejudices, though rigid,
+give no trouble to others. Hungry or not, they are always ready to
+march, and march all day and all night, if necessary. Still, the
+Indo-Chinese races exceed even the ordinary Asiatic in reserve and
+sphinx-like characteristics, and the Manipuris are an inscrutable
+set. I had many intimate friends among them, yet, on the whole,
+prefer the pure Hindoo.
+
+What is now the valley of Manipur was evidently once a series of
+valleys and ranges of hills, between the higher ranges which now border
+it and converge to the south. The rivers now flowing through the valley
+then flowed through it like the Barak, Eerung, and others, at a much
+lower level. One of the great earthquakes, to which these regions are
+so subject, closed the outlet and raised a permanent barrier; thus
+a lake was formed, and in the course of ages the alluvium brought
+down by the streams filled it up to its present level leaving the
+Logtak Lake in its lowest part, a lake which has constantly lessened
+and is still lessening in size. The crests of the sunken ranges are
+still to be seen running down the valley, and mostly parallel to the
+bordering ranges, such are Langol, Langthabal, Phoiching, Lokching,
+and others. Sometimes a river, as at a place called "Eeroce Semba,"
+runs at the base of a hill, and cuts away the alluvium, showing the
+solid rock. This alluvium forms one of the deepest and richest soils
+in the world.
+
+I have referred to the proposed expedition to the Naga Hills, to aid
+the troops there in the operations against the powerful village of
+Mozuma. In order to take part in this expedition I had brought up one
+hundred men of the 35th Native Infantry, from Cachar, and I started
+from Manipur on December 3rd, 1877, having sent on the 35th and a
+Manipuri force of over three hundred men under the Minister Bularam
+Singh. I rode out the first day to Mayang Khang, a distance of forty
+miles, where I caught up my men. I passed Sengmai at a distance of
+thirteen miles on the border of the valley, and up to which the road
+is flat, and soon entered a broken country, first grass, then scrub,
+then forest. The road lay over a succession of spurs of the Kowpree
+Hills which run down into a very narrow valley, and was as bad as
+can be imagined--very steep ascents and descents. At last we reached
+Kaithemabee, the second stage, and fourteen miles from Sengmai. It
+is exceedingly picturesquely situated, having a splendid view of the
+Kowpree range, here rising to over 8000 feet. The outpost is situated
+on a high bank overlooking a stream, and beyond it a splendid rolling
+slope of grass extending for miles.
+
+All this part of the country is covered with beehive-shaped cairns,
+built of well-selected stones. They are said to have been made by
+the K�ereng Nagas, formerly a very powerful race, whose miserable
+remnants now inhabit the neighbouring hills. Farther on the bee-hives
+end suddenly, and a region of monoliths is entered. Probably both
+monoliths and bee-hives were erected to commemorate great events
+in the lives of the builders, the death of a chief, the birth of
+a son, the giving of a great feast when a bison, or possibly many,
+were killed. Monoliths are common, and exist all over the Naga Hills
+and among the Kolarian and Dravidian tribes, as well as all over
+Europe. Cairns also are common, but the beehive-shaped cairns are,
+I believe, unique, and found only in Manipur and in this neighbourhood.
+
+I reached Mayung Khang at 4 P.M., having an hour before crossed the
+watershed, all the streams south of it falling into the tributaries of
+the Chindwin Irrawaddy, all to the north running into the tributaries
+of the Ganges and Burrhampooter.
+
+Mayung Khang is a highly undulating grassy slope, the Kowpree rising
+to nearly nine thousand feet in the west, while after crossing a small
+stream a lower range closes it in on the east. We halted there for
+the night close to a monolith, and the next day marched to Mythephum.
+
+Mythephum or Muphum (lit. Manipuri settlement) was a small military
+post, and we encamped below in a wide valley among recently cut
+rice fields, with a river rushing by us. The place is so named from
+having been a Manipuri settlement, in the old days before the Burmese
+invasion. High hills rose above us on all sides, the valley running
+in and out among them and following the course of the stream. To
+our north, and at a distance of a mile or two, was the once powerful
+village of Muram, still populous but submissive. I had a small but
+most comfortable straw-built hut, and well remember how delightful the
+early morning was next day, when I had breakfast at sunrise and saw
+my thermometer at thirty-two degrees. Only those accustomed to great
+heat realise the delights of a low thermometer. Mythephum is over
+4000 feet above the sea, and being a low valley is often extremely
+cold. Sometimes in winter the stream is for a day quite choked by
+blocks of ice, and I have seen the thermometer at twenty-six degrees,
+150 feet above the valley, which probably meant eighteen degrees at
+the lowest level on the grass.
+
+It was my intention to march on Mozuma by a track which would avoid
+the powerful villages of Viswema, Kohima, Jotsuma and Konoma, and
+enable me to attack the enemy in the rear. Half-way I was delayed
+by receiving no letter from Mr. Carnegy, with whom I had to act in
+concert, and this prevented me from reaching the scene of operations,
+as I received the startling news that the Manipuri outpost of Kongal
+Tannah on the borders of the Kubo valley had been attacked on December
+14th by a party of men sent by the Rajah of Sumjok or Thoungdoot,
+and eight men killed. This threw the whole population of Manipur into
+a state of commotion, and the Maharajah begged me to return at once,
+and I felt it my duty to do so, as my chief work was to protect Manipur
+and its interests. I therefore returned to Manipur on December 17th,
+leaving my party on the frontier, where they remained some time longer,
+the Nagas being unwilling to submit; and making overtures instead to
+the Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. He sternly declined their offers,
+and threatened that if they did not speedily yield to the British
+authorities, he would send a large force to our aid.
+
+The Naga Hills Campaign of that year had no further interest for
+Manipur, and it had a sad ending for us, as Mr. Carnegy was accidently
+shot by a sentry.
+
+The "Kongal outrage," as it was thenceforth called, was so serious and
+so evidently premeditated, that a most thorough inquiry was needed. It
+took some time to collect evidence as wounded men had to be brought
+in, and it was the end of the month before I was able to proceed to
+the spot. At last I started and crossed the Yoma range of hills for
+the first time. What a lovely march it was and what an anxious one,
+as I left my wife not at all well, and no one but an ignorant and
+not very sweet-tempered English nurse to look after her. However,
+duty must come first, and off I started, posting relays of ponies on
+the way to enable me to return quickly when the work was done. Thangal
+Major accompanied me.
+
+The first part of our march lay across the valley, and we began the
+ascent of the hills at a place called Ingorok. After a wearisome ascent
+of 3500 feet and a more gradual one along the crest, we made a rapid
+descent of 4000 feet to the Turet river, where we encamped. The river
+runs at the bottom of an exceedingly narrow valley, and the ascent on
+both sides is one of the most wearisome I have ever made. On a dark
+night lights on the hillside above, appear as stars from the bed of
+the stream. The scenery was majestic, and the vegetation very fine. The
+next day we commenced with a steep ascent of 2500 feet, and ended with
+a descent of 3000 feet to the Maghung river. From the Maghung next
+morning we started for Kongal Tannah, which we reached in good time.
+
+I carefully examined the place and saw the charred remains of the
+murdered men, and many bullets still sticking in the stockade. The
+evidence being complete, I turned homewards, and by travelling
+incessantly reached Manipur next morning to find that my wife had
+presented me with another son, the first pure European child born in
+Manipur. It had been an anxious time for me, and I was thankful to
+find both her and the baby well. We named the baby Arthur.
+
+I sent a full report of the Kongal case to the Government of India,
+and a demand for reparation was made at the Court of Mandalay,
+but it was not backed up with sufficient vigour. The outrage was
+unprovoked, and nothing less than the execution of the ringleaders,
+who were well known, would have satisfied Manipur, and, indeed,
+the claims of justice, but though the case dragged on for years, no
+redress was ever given. I predicted at the time that failure to do
+justice would eventually lead to underhand reprisals on the part of
+Manipur, as the Durbar could not understand our Government tolerating
+an attack of this kind on a protected state, and naturally ascribed our
+forbearance to weakness. I shall have to refer to the case farther on.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Discussions as to New Residency--Its completion--Annual boat
+    races--Kang-joop-kool--Daily work--Dealings with the Durbar.
+
+
+I have briefly described the old Residency which was rented from
+the Heir Apparent. Money had been sanctioned for a new Residency,
+to belong to the British Government, but there had been squabbles
+for a long time between my predecessors and the Durbar regarding a
+suitable site. Also such a building as was required could only be
+built with the help of the Durbar whom it was advisable to conciliate.
+
+One of my predecessors wished to build on a small hill called
+"Chinga," about a mile from the palace. It was an admirable site,
+and had the position of the Political Agent been similar to that in
+other Indian States, it could not have been better. But in Manipur, the
+representative of the Government of India was regarded by the Maharajah
+as a powerful prop and support in case of his throne being attacked,
+as was constantly the case in former years. On this ground the Durbar
+objected that it was too far off; also that the place was reported
+to be the residence of an evil spirit inimical to the Royal family,
+so that it was not a convenient spot for the Maharajah to visit. So,
+after many acrimonious disputes, the negotiation fell through.
+
+Another Political Agent chose a site called Ching-mai-roong, which
+in many ways was very satisfactory, and the Durbar reluctantly
+consented to give it, but it was a mile and a half from the palace,
+and therefore much out of the way. The question was still in abeyance
+when I arrived. As soon as I had time, I discussed the matter with
+the Durbar, and found the Maharajah much averse to my removal from
+the old site. He said "Where you are now, I can call to you; but if
+you go to a distance, I shall be cut off entirely."
+
+I quite saw the advisability of being on the spot, also in what I may
+call the fashionable quarter of the town; and, as from a sanitary point
+of view, the position was as good as any other, I agreed to stay, on
+condition that all the squalid houses and slums in the neighbourhood
+were cleared away, dirty tanks filled, and others deepened, and a fine
+large space cleared and handed over to me. I further insisted that
+I should have all the assistance necessary in building a suitable
+Residency. My terms were agreed to, and the work put in hand. I
+determined to have a building worthy of the representative of the
+British Government, and sacrificed everything to suitable rooms, and
+sound construction, so that it was not till the end of 1880 that it
+was finished.
+
+I was greatly indebted to my head clerk, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo, who
+acted as clerk of the works. The result was a charming residence. It
+was in the half-timber style of old English houses, modified to suit
+the climate, all on one floor, but raised on a solid brick foundation,
+which gave a lower storey seven feet in height, thus keeping us high
+and dry, the house being approached on four sides by flights of solid
+masonry steps. The lower storey was built so as to be shot proof, as I
+designed it as a place of retreat from stray shot for non-combatants,
+in the event of the Residency being again, as it had been before,
+subjected to a cross-fire from contending parties during one of the
+many revolutions so common to Manipur. Little did I dream that folly,
+and incompetency would ever lead to our being directly attacked!
+
+The large compound, about sixteen acres in extent, was surrounded
+by a mud breastwork and ditch, quite capable of being defended, if
+necessary, and there were four entrances which I named respectively,
+the Great Gate, the Milking Gate, my cows'-shed being close to it,
+the Water Gate and the Kang-joop-kool Gate. I made a riding road all
+round to exercise ponies, and besides making a splendid kitchen garden,
+adding considerably to Colonel McCulloch's, we laid out flower beds,
+and had cool shady spots for the heat of the day. Deodars and other
+exotic trees were imported by me and throve wonderfully. One large
+sheet of water with an island in the centre was cleared, deepened,
+and the banks repaired, and as I never allowed a bird to be killed, it
+was covered in winter with water-fowls to the number of four hundred
+and fifty or five hundred of every kind, from wild geese downwards,
+and rare birds took refuge in the trees. In the north-east corner of
+the compound were the lines for my escort, with a tank of the purest
+drinking water, where formerly squalor and filth had held sway. Finally
+I covered most of the large trees with beautiful orchids, so that in
+the season we had a blaze of colour. I spared no expense on the garden,
+and we were rewarded. Altogether the Residency and its grounds formed
+a beautiful and comfortable resting-place.
+
+The new building was also commodious and contained a handsome
+Durbar-room for receptions 24 feet square, fine dining and
+drawing-rooms, very airy and comfortable bedrooms, etc., with an
+office for myself. The pantry was so arranged that cold draughts
+of air, so great a drawback in Indian houses in cold weather,
+were avoided when dinner was being brought in. The bedrooms had
+fireplaces, and the sitting-rooms excellent stoves which in winter
+were very necessary. The shot-proof rooms in the basement were not
+used, except one for a storeroom, and the one under the verandah of
+the Durbar-room, used as a sleeping place by the men of my guard.
+
+The Great Gate was a picturesque half-timber structure, with rooms on
+either side, one of which I built specially as a pneumonia hospital,
+so it was designed with a view to maintaining an equable temperature,
+pneumonia being a great scourge among newly arrived Hindoostani
+sepoys. Not long after I left, it was diverted to other purposes,
+being considered too good for a hospital!
+
+"With the exception of the Residency, no house when I left Manipur,
+was built of brick, partly from fear of earthquakes, partly on
+account of expense. The ordinary houses of the people are huts with
+wattle and daub or mud walls, those of greater folks the same, but
+on a larger scale. Every house has a verandah in front with the main
+entrance leading from it, and a little side door on the north side
+close to the west end, the houses invariably facing east. The roofs
+are all of thatch, with the exception of the Rajah's, which was of
+corrugated iron. There were several temples built of brick stuccoed
+over. One in the palace had an iron roof, another a gilded one. I
+sent some models of these temples and several other buildings to the
+Indian and Colonial Exhibition of 1886, every beam and rafter being
+represented and made according to scale. The larger of the temples
+had bells of a fine deep tone. Some of the approaches to the Rajah's
+dwelling-house were made of brick. Formerly the palace enclosure
+was entered from the front by a quaint and picturesque old gateway,
+not beautiful, but characteristic of Manipur; the old Rajah Chandra
+Kirtee Singh substituted for it a tawdry and fantastic structure with
+a corrugated iron roof, a structure without any merit, and quite out
+of keeping with its surroundings. I remonstrated in vain; shoddy and
+vulgar tastes had penetrated even to Manipur, and the picturesque
+old building that spoke of bygone ages was doomed; but we who have
+destroyed so many fine buildings, have little right to criticise.
+
+"Close to the gateway is the place where the grand stand is erected,
+from which the Rajah and his relations view the boat races on the
+palace moat. I say 'view,' as in old age, a Rajah sits there all
+the time; but in the prime of life he takes part in these races,
+steering one of the boats himself. These boat races generally take
+place in September when the moat is full, and are the great event
+of the year. Every one turns out to see them, the Ranees and other
+female relations being on the opposite side of the moat, for in Manipur
+there is no concealment of women, while the side next to the road is
+thronged with spectators. The boatmen have a handsome dress peculiar
+to the occasion, and the whole scene is highly interesting. The boats
+are canoes hewn out of single trees of great size, and are decorated
+with colour and carving." [21]
+
+The valley of Manipur is hot and steamy in the rainy season, and
+Colonel McCulloch built a small hut at a place called Kang-joop-kool,
+situated on a spur of the Kowpree range, to the west of the valley
+at a height of 5170 feet above the sea. The distance from the capital
+was fourteen miles, and four from the foot of the hills, and he lived
+there for the whole of the rainy season, except for a few visits to
+the capital. His successors till my time did not stay there much,
+but I bought a small hut from my immediate predecessor, and pulled it
+down, and built a new one far more commodious. I enclosed the land,
+and laid out a small garden, and planted a wood of Khasia pines,
+the land being quite bare, and in time it became a most charming
+place. It was pleasant to leave the ceremonial life at the capital,
+where I never walked out without a train of followers clad in scarlet
+liveries, and settle down quietly at Kang-joop-kool where we could
+roam about the hills as if we had been in England.
+
+I spent little or no time in sporting, my eyes were never very good,
+and before I came to Manipur had become so deficient in what oculists
+call power of "accommodation," that, though formerly a fairly good
+shot, I was then a bad one. In one way this was an advantage, as all
+my interests were concentrated on my work, and nothing of greater
+interest could have been found. Somehow or other, there was subject
+for conversation with State officials and non-officials, to last me
+from early morning till night, and fill up every spare moment. My
+door was always open, and the guard at the great gate had orders to
+let every one pass. All the minor gates were unguarded.
+
+No attempt was made by the Durbar, as in other native states, to
+bribe the Residency servants, except in one notable case that happened
+before my time. All negotiations were carried on with the Political
+Agent direct, and the penurious Manipuris would have thought it waste
+of money to bribe his servants. This was a very satisfactory state
+of things, and probably saved many unpleasant complications.
+
+In my dealings with the Durbar, I always tried to bear in mind that
+I was the representative of the strong dealing with the weak, and
+so to ignore little silly acts of self-assertion, such as a native
+court loves to indulge in, and childish ebullitions, as unworthy of
+notice. Whenever it became necessary for me to interfere, I did so
+with great firmness, but always tried to carry the Maharajah and his
+ministers with me, and make any desired reform appear to emanate from
+him. Except on one occasion, I never experienced any rudeness from
+an official.
+
+At the same time when any attempt was made to infringe on the rights of
+the British Government or its subjects, I spoke in very unmistakable
+language. I think the Durbar gave me credit for good intentions and
+appreciated my desire to work with them; of course they tried to get
+all they could out of me, and it was a daily, but, on the whole,
+friendly struggle between us. I knew perfectly well that to exalt
+themselves, the Court party spoke of me behind my back in disparaging
+terms, and boasted of what they could do, and of their independence
+of the British Government, but I was quite satisfied that they did
+not believe what they said, and that in all important matters they
+deferred to me on every point, and were always coming to me to help
+them out of difficulties. I kept in mind Colonel McCulloch's wise
+saying to the Rajah: "I don't care what you say of me, so long as
+you do as I tell you."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Violent conduct of Prince Koireng--A rebuke--Service
+    payment--Advantage of Manipuri system--Customs
+    duty--Slavery--Releasing slaves--Chowba's fidelity--Sepoy's
+    kindness to children--Visit to the Yoma range.
+
+
+An incident occurred which might have caused some trouble, while
+it served to show the violent disposition of Kotwal Koireng, later
+known as the Senaputtee. One evening my Naga interpreter reported
+to me that an Angami Naga of Kohima had been cruelly assaulted by
+that prince, while he was passing along the road to the east of the
+palace enclosure. Soon after the man was brought in to me, and an
+examination by my native doctor proved that he was suffering from a
+severe contusion above the right eye, which might or might not prove
+fatal. Now, strictly speaking, the man was not a British subject,
+but some day or other he was sure to be one, and we had assumed an
+indefinite control over his people. This made me feel that passing
+over the offence as one not concerning us, would be to lose prestige
+with Manipur, as well as with the Naga tribes, who ought, I felt,
+to be assured of my sympathy. I therefore at once sent a strong
+remonstrance to the Durbar, claiming the man as a British subject, and
+demanding prompt recognition of, and reparation for the outrage. On
+further investigation it appeared, that the man was with some of his
+friends carrying a large joint of beef on his shoulder just as Kotwal
+Koireng was passing, and a few drops of blood fell on the ground;
+this enraged the Prince so much that he at once attacked the man
+with a thick stick which he carried, and beat him till he was almost
+senseless. There was no real provocation, as eating the flesh of cows
+that had died a natural death was always allowed, and any dead cow
+was at once handed over to the Nagas and other hill-tribes; it was
+simply an outburst of temper. The result was, that until the man's
+recovery was assured, Kotwal was held in a species of arrest; then
+he was released and sent with the Jubraj to make an apology to me;
+the man received a sum of money, and the affair ended amicably. I
+did not often come across the princes, though sometimes I met them
+out riding, and then we were very friendly. Once when I was walking
+out, I met one of the younger ones riding in state on an elephant,
+he forgot to make the usual salutation. This was reported to the
+Maharajah, who sent him with Thangal Major to apologize.
+
+The Manipuris paid very little revenue in money, and none in direct
+taxes. The land all belonged to the Rajah, and every holding paid a
+small quantity of rice each year. The chief payment was in personal
+service. This system known by the name of "Lalloop," and by us often
+miscalled "forced labour," was much the same as formerly existed
+in Assam under its Ahom Rajahs. According to it, each man in the
+country was bound to render ten days' service out of every forty,
+to the Rajah, and it extended to every class in the community. Women
+were naturally exempt, but, among men, the blacksmith, goldsmith,
+carpenters, etc., pursued their different crafts in the Rajah's
+workshops for the stated time, while the bulk of the population,
+the field workers, served as soldiers, and made roads or dug canals,
+in fact executed great public works for the benefit of the state.
+
+The system was a good one, and when not carried to excess, pressed
+heavily on nobody. It was especially adapted to a poor state sparsely
+populated. In such a state, under ordinary circumstances, where the
+amount of revenue is small, and the rate of wages often comparatively
+high, it is next door to impossible to carry out many much-needed
+public works by payment. On the other hand, every man in India who
+lives by cultivation, has much spare time on his hands, and the
+"Lalloop" system very profitably utilises this, and for the benefit
+of the community at large. I never heard of it being complained of as
+a hardship. The system in Assam led to the completion of many useful
+and magnificent public works. High embanked roads were made throughout
+the country, and large tanks, lakes, appropriately termed "seas," were
+excavated under this arrangement. Many of the great works of former
+ages in other parts of India are due to something of the same kind.
+
+It was a sad mistake giving up the system in Assam, without retaining
+the right of the state to a certain number of days' labour on the
+roads every year, as is the custom to this day, I believe, in Canada,
+Ceylon, and other countries.
+
+Unfortunately, our so-called statesmen are carried away by false
+ideas of humanitarianism, and a desire to pose in every way as the
+exponents of civilisation, that is the last fad that is uppermost,
+and the experience of ages and the real good of primitive people are
+often sacrificed to this ignis fatuus. I hear that "Lalloop" has been
+abolished in Manipur since we took the state in charge. We may live
+to regret it; the unfortunate puppet Rajah certainly will. Why cannot
+we leave well alone, and attack the real evils of India that remain
+still unredressed, evils that to hear of them, would make the hair of
+any decent thinking man stand on end? We have still to learn that the
+native system has much good in it, much to recommend it, and that it is
+in many cases the natural outgrowth of the requirements of the people.
+
+Manipur in old days required very little to make it a model
+native state of a unique type, and its people the happiest of the
+happy. All it required was a better administration of justice, and a
+few smaller reforms, also more enlightened fiscal regulations such as
+many European states have not yet attained. Given these, no one would
+have wished for more. No one asked for high pay; enough to live on,
+and the system of rewards already in force from time immemorial,
+satisfied all aspirations. The people were contented and happy, and
+it should have been our aim and object to keep them and leave them
+so. Shall we have accomplished this desirable object when we hand
+over the state to its future ruler, that is if it ever does again
+come under a Native Government?
+
+One of the standing grievances of the Government of India against
+Manipur, was the levying of customs duties on all articles
+imported into the state, and on some articles exported to British
+territory. These duties supplied almost the only money revenue
+the Maharajah had, and also to some extent protected Manipuri
+industries. During my tenure of office I did something towards
+regulating the system, and in the case of articles not produced in
+Manipur, induced the Durbar to lower the rates. In the case of cloths,
+however, I strongly advocated the duties being kept up, where, as
+in the case of coarse cloths the imports entered into competition
+with the excellent manufactures of Manipur, which I wished to see
+preserved in all their integrity.
+
+Our system of free trade has done much to injure useful trades in
+India, and none more than those in cotton goods. Among an ignorant
+people the incentives of cheapness and outward appearance are so great,
+that the sudden importation of cheap and inferior foreign goods may
+kill out an ancient art, and the people only discover when too late
+what they have lost, and then lament having abandoned the really good
+for the attractive flimsy article. Thus, in many parts of India,
+the beautiful chintzes which were common thirty-five years ago,
+are now nowhere to be had, and every year sees the decay of some
+branch of manufacture. This was very noticeable in Assam, and the
+arts there lost were only kept up in Manipur, owing to its having a
+Native Court where tradition and taste encouraged them. Soon after
+I went to Manipur, I found that the valley had almost been drained
+of ponies by their exportation to Cachar. The ministers consulted me
+about it, and I gave my consent to the trade being stopped, and this
+was done for years until the numbers had again increased.
+
+On the whole the duties on almost every article were lowered during
+my term of office, and the imports largely increased. Indeed, but for
+the cumbersome system of levying the custom charges, they would have
+been no grievance at all; and as it was they hardly added anything to
+the cost of the articles when sold in Manipur, many of which could
+be bought for little more than the price paid in Cachar, plus the
+charge for carriage.
+
+Slavery of a mild form existed in Manipur, the slaves being hereditary
+ones, or people, and the descendants of people who had sold themselves
+for debt, their services being pledged as interest for the debt. For
+instance a Naga (a very common case), marries a girl of another Naga
+village, thereby incurring a debt of forty rupees to the father,
+that being the price of a Naga bride. The man not being able to pay,
+his father-in-law says, "Sell yourself, and pay me." This is done, and
+the man pays the forty rupees and has to work for his master till he
+can pay the debt, something being sometimes allowed for subsistence,
+or they agree upon a monthly payment, which if not paid is added
+to the principal. The wife probably works and supports the family,
+and, if the creditor is a fairly good fellow, things go smoothly,
+and the debtor never attempts to fulfil his obligations more than
+he can help. The law allows a man to transfer his services to any
+one who will take up the debt. Here and there great abuses crop up,
+and the master takes advantage of the corrupt courts to bind the
+slave more and more securely in the chains of debt, and then every
+effort is made to escape. I often paid the debts of slaves who came
+to me for help and let them work off the money. Once a little girl
+named Nowbee came to me. Her mother had sold her to pay her father's
+funeral expenses. She stayed with us, working in the nursery for years,
+and when I left I forgave her the remainder of her debt which was
+unpaid, as, of course, I did with all the others. I once offered to
+redeem the mother, who, in turn, had sold herself, but the old woman
+declined, as some one told her that we should take her to England,
+and she was afraid to go. Sometimes cases of very cruel ill-treatment
+came before me, or cases where people had been made slaves contrary
+to the laws, and then I made a strong remonstrance to the Durbar,
+and insisted on justice. Once or twice I took the complainants under
+my protection immediately, and insisted on keeping them. One day a
+young man and a small boy came to me for protection: the case was
+a bad one, and I at once took them into my service as the best way
+of settling the difficulty, the young man as a gardener and the boy
+to work in the kitchen and wait at table; both were named "Chowba,"
+i.e. big; a name as common out there as John in England. We gave
+little Chowba clothes, and he stood behind my wife's chair at dinner,
+the first evening crying bitterly from fear. However, he learned his
+work, and became an excellent servant. When I went on leave in 1882,
+I offered to place him with my locum tenens, but the boy said, "No,
+sahib, you have been kind to me; I have broken your things and you have
+threatened to beat me, but have never done so; you have threatened to
+cut my pay, but have never done so; I will never serve any one but
+you!" The poor boy kept his word; he preferred hard toil, cutting
+wood and such-like work; but unfortunately died before I returned.
+
+Another bad case I remember, in which a woman complained to me that her
+child had been stolen from her house while she was away. I ordered the
+child to be brought to me; the poor little thing was only four years
+old, and could hardly stand from having been made to walk a great
+distance by the man who had stolen her, and whose only excuse was,
+that her father, who was dead, owed him nine rupees. I gave her to
+her mother, and insisted on the Durbar punishing him. The story was a
+sad one. The father of the child, a debtor slave, had been told by his
+master to leave his home and go with him, and the man in desperation
+attempted to kill his wife and little girl, and then committed suicide.
+
+While in Manipur I did all I could to afford relief in individual
+cases. It was a great abuse, but slavery in Manipur must not be put
+in the same rank as slavery in Brazil, the West Indies, or Turkey and
+Arabia. A thorough reform of the judicial system of Manipur would have
+entirely taken the sting out of it. All the same, I wish I could have
+abolished it.
+
+My wife's nurse very speedily left us, and we were left to natives
+and did much better with them. We always had three or four Naga girls
+who did their work well in a rough-and-ready way. Chowbee, Nembee,
+and Nowbee, just mentioned, were the best. Chowbee was the wife of
+a Naga bearer named Lintoo, and Nembee afterwards married our head
+bearer Horna. We engaged a tailor named Suleiman, brother of Sooltan,
+one of our chuprassies, as a permanent servant, to do the ordinary
+household sewing and mending. My two boys, Dick and Edward, became
+very friendly with all the people, and were drilled daily by a naick
+(corporal of my escort), and the good-natured sepoys used to allow
+themselves to be drilled by the boys. One afternoon, I met these two
+walking up the lines with my orderly. I asked what they were going
+for, and they replied that the sepoys had not done their drill well
+that day, and they were going to give them some more. Whenever a
+new detachment came, the boys were formally introduced to the new
+native officers and men. As they grew older they learned to ride,
+and rode out morning and evening when I went for a walk.
+
+As the Burmese difficulty did not show signs of decreasing, I went out
+in February to Kongjang on the Yoma range, to reconnoitre and select
+a place for a new stockade, if necessary. At three and a half miles
+on my way, I passed Langthabal, the old capital of Ghumbeer Singh,
+a pretty place where the cantonment of the Manipur Levy used to be,
+and where Captain Gordon was buried under a tree. The ruined palace
+lies nestling under a hill, on a spur of which is a magnificent
+fir tree; behind the palace a garden run to waste and wood, with
+a few ponds, formed an admirable cover for ducks, which I saw in
+abundance. After leaving Langthabal, we passed a place called Leelong,
+the place of execution for members of the Royal family, who are sewn
+up in sacks and drowned in the river. Farther on is a great fishing
+weir, where a small lake discharges itself into a river. At last,
+after a march of thirty miles, I halted at Pullel, a village of low
+caste Manipuris. Next morning we ascended the Yoma range, reaching
+Aimole, a village picturesquely situated and inhabited by a tribe
+of that name. The head of the village was an intelligent old man,
+who remembered Captain Gordon and talked a good deal about him. I
+gave him a coat, and the girls and boys of the village got up a dance
+for my benefit, the most graceful and modest that I ever saw among
+a wild people.
+
+I reached Kongjang in the afternoon, a place very picturesquely
+situated, with a fine view of the valley of the Lokchao and the hills
+beyond, and of a portion of the Kubo valley. I selected a spot for a
+stockade, and, after reconnoitring in the neighbourhood, marched back
+next day to Pullel, and thence to Manipur, again passing Langthabal. I
+never saw Langthabal without regretting its abandonment, there is
+something very charming about the situation, and it is nearer to
+Bissenpore on the Cachar road than Imphal; also a few miles nearer the
+Kubo valley. It has always had the reputation of being very healthy,
+which is not invariably the case with Imphal, and is, if anything,
+a little cooler. Before leaving in 1886, I strongly recommended it
+as the site for a cantonment, in the event of troops being stationed
+in the valley. My recommendation was adopted.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+    An old acquaintance--Monetary crisis--A cure for breaking
+    crockery--Rumour of human sacrifices--Improved postal
+    system--Apricots and mulberries--A snake story--Search after
+    treasure--Another snake story--Visit to Calcutta--Athletics--Ball
+    practice--A near shave.
+
+
+We had not been dull in the Naga Hills, still less in Manipur, for
+I was always interested in native life. Something to vary one's work
+was constantly occurring.
+
+One day some men in Shan costume came and asked me for a pass to enter
+Burmah. I inquired who they were, and one said he was the Chowmengti
+Gohain. I remembered him fourteen years before, at Sudya, in Assam,
+when he was but a boy. He was the son of a Khampti chief, long since
+dead. I asked him if he remembered me, and after a minute or two,
+he did. I managed to keep up a conversation in Singpho, though I had
+not spoken it for many years, and have never done so since. He was
+going to Mandalay to marry a daughter to the king.
+
+Time went on fairly smoothly. I was occupied all day long, and used to
+talk for hours to the ministers and others who came to see me, while my
+wife looked after the house and children, and taught the Naga girls to
+knit and sew, and other useful things. When the weather grew too hot,
+we migrated to Kang-joop-kool, and enjoyed the change. About this time
+much dissatisfaction was caused by speculators in the capital hoarding
+"sel," the coin of the country. The usual rate at which they were
+exchanged for the rupee was 480 = 1 rupee, but there were occasional
+fluctuations; large sums were paid in rupees, but the amount was
+always reckoned in sel. Consequently, when the latter were hoarded,
+a man having only rupees in his possession found their purchasing
+power greatly diminished. On this occasion, almost all the "sel" in
+circulation were collected in a few hands and a panic was the result;
+the bazaar was in an uproar, and business ceased. I spoke to the
+Maharajah on the subject, and represented the very great injury to
+the country that would inevitably result if immediate steps were not
+taken to rectify the mischief done, and urged him to issue a large
+quantity of sel. This he did, and the exchange which had gone down
+to 240, at once rose to 400, and at this rate he fixed it, and so it
+remained all the time I was in Manipur.
+
+Our Naga boys, though intelligent and willing to learn, were careless
+and often worse, as in playing and fighting with each other, they broke
+much crockery, and the loss was serious, as it took months to replace
+it. I threatened in vain, as I could not bear to make the poor lads
+pay. At last, in desperation, I hit upon a remedy; I said that the
+next time anything was broken, the breaker should pound it up to a
+fine powder with a pestle and mortar, and mix it with water and drink
+it. This threat had some effect, but at last one day the old cook
+brought up Murumboo, our musalchee (i.e. dishwasher) with a vegetable
+dish in pieces, broken, as usual, in play. I said very severely,
+"Very well, grind it to powder in a pestle and mortar, and then you
+shall mix it with water and drink it." So Murumboo sat for hours in
+the sun, pounding away. At last it was reduced to a fine powder, and I
+told him to mix it with water and drink it in my presence. Of course,
+what I had foreseen, happened, all the other servants headed by the
+old cook, Horna and Sultan, came up and humbly begged that he might
+be forgiven this time, a request which I graciously acceded to, and
+Murumboo went away very penitent. The result was excellent, as for the
+future I hardly lost any crockery. Poor Murumboo; he served me well,
+and became an excellent cook and got a good place when I finally left.
+
+The summer and autumn passed quietly, except for a rumour that human
+sacrifices had been offered up, though no actual complaint was made. I
+believe the report to have been true. I had seen enough of countries
+where within a few years they had been undoubtedly offered, to know
+that such things did occasionally happen among ignorant people, where
+appeasing evil spirits is a common custom. I took such precautions
+as effectually prevented any recurrence of this horrible practice.
+
+One reform carried out was in our postal arrangements. When I first
+arrived, the post, which came in every other day, frequently took eight
+days to reach us from Cachar, a distance of 132 miles. By altering
+the system, I reduced it to a maximum of four days, though it often
+came more quickly, and by constantly hammering at all concerned,
+I achieved the triumph of a daily post delivered in less than two
+days from Cachar before I left.
+
+Once when riding between Manipur and Kang-joop-kool, I saw, in passing
+a small bazaar, a woman selling apricots. I made inquiries about them,
+and was told that they had existed from time immemorial, but that they
+would give me a violent internal pain if I ate them. I did try them,
+raw and cooked, but the statement was quite true, nothing made them
+agreeable, and I did suffer pain. They were probably introduced from
+China in early days, and having been neglected had degenerated. They
+blossom in January. I tried Himalayan apricots, and the trees throve
+wonderfully, but could never, while I was in Manipur, learn to blossom
+at the right time. They blossomed as they were accustomed to do in
+their native country, that is three months too late, and the fruit was
+destroyed by the early rains. Perhaps they have by this time adapted
+themselves to the climate. I introduced Kabulee mulberries and they
+did well, but those in the valley grew long like the Indian variety,
+while those at Kang-joop-kool were shaped like the common European
+mulberry, and very good to eat.
+
+Another time when out riding in the evening, I witnessed a strange
+sight. I was near Kooak Kaithel when I saw a large number of sparrows
+assembled on the road in front, and perched on a clump of bamboos near;
+others were constantly joining them, and numbers were flying to the
+spot from all sides. They first joined the assemblage on the road,
+and then flew up to and around the bamboos, which were already covered
+with the first-comers. I asked one of my mounted orderlies what it all
+meant. He said that a snake was concealed among the bamboos, and that
+the birds were come to see him and try and drive him out. Whatever be
+the explanation, it was a very interesting sight, and I never at any
+time saw such a large number of small birds together. Once when riding
+along this same road, but farther on, in company with Thangal Major,
+I happened to see a deep hole freshly dug in the side of a hill,
+apparently without any object. I asked him what it was dug for, and
+he replied that it was probably some refugee returned to the land of
+his ancestors, who had dug it, in search for treasure buried during
+the Burmese invasion by a relation, who had left an exact description
+of the spot as a guide to any of his descendants who might return. He
+said that there were many cases of this kind. I used to hear the same
+story many years ago in Assam where the truth was never questioned,
+and many were the tumuli that bore the marks of having been opened by
+searchers "for buried gold." I never knew of an authentic case of the
+kind in Manipur, but doubtless old Thangal could tell of many such;
+possibly he had shared in the proceeds.
+
+I have just related a story of birds attacking a snake, and I
+may as well tell another story in which one of his tribe was the
+aggressor. When returning from my cottage at Kang-joop-kool, after
+a day spent there in October, I saw an enormous python poised up
+on the high embanked road with its head erect, and body and tail in
+coils on the slope, ready to spring on some young buffaloes grazing
+near; it must have been at the lowest estimate thirty feet long and
+of proportionate thickness. I was too near, and riding too fast, to
+stop my pony, so gave a loud shout, and urged him to speed, and the
+snake turned itself back and fell with a crash into a morass by the
+road side, and I saw no more of it. I spoke to Thangal Major about
+it, and he told me that pythons were known to exist about the place
+where I saw this. I once shot a young one on the Diphoo Panee river,
+near Sudya, which measured nine feet, and a sepoy of my old regiment
+shot one near Borpathar fifteen feet in length.
+
+Several very deadly snakes abound in Manipur, notably the "Tanglei"
+and the "Ophiophagus," a terrible looking creature, eight to twelve
+feet in length. No house is safe from snakes, and in the old Residency
+one fell from the roof once in my bedroom, from where a few minutes
+previously the baby's bassinette had hung, so the child had a narrow
+escape. I never dare let the children play alone in the garden for
+fear of their being bitten.
+
+The extreme loneliness of Manipur, and the necessity of leaving my
+wife and children quite alone sometimes, made me very anxious to get
+some trustworthy English nurse for her, but we quite failed in doing
+so. In this emergency, one of her sisters volunteered to come out,
+which was a great help and relief. As I had to go to Calcutta to see
+the Viceroy in December, we asked her to meet us there. We left Manipur
+on November 27th, 1878, and returned on January 23rd, bringing her
+with us. Kohima was occupied by the Political Agent of the Naga Hills
+(Mr. Damant), in November, and before leaving for Calcutta I had some
+correspondence with him, and, at his request, sent my escort--then
+consisting of Cachar Frontier Police; men, for service qualities in the
+hills, far superior to the Native Infantry I had--to his assistance.
+
+In Calcutta, I met Sir Steuart Bayley, who had been lately appointed
+Chief Commissioner of Assam, and had interviews with the Viceroy,
+Lord Lytton, and the Foreign Secretary, Mr. (now Sir Alfred) Lyall.
+
+Early in 1879, there was some discontent on account of the dearness of
+rice, owing to a deficient crop, but there was no real anxiety, as the
+stock of rice in hand was sufficient. I remember that during that time
+I was rather scandalised at hearing that the old Ranee had gone off to
+Moirang on the Logtak lake for change of air, accompanied by a retinue
+of over one thousand persons. Many people had been employed for weeks
+past in building a little temporary town for their accommodation,
+and all for five days' stay. I remonstrated with Thangal Major at
+this useless waste of resources at a time when food was scarce, and
+told him that he ought to prevent such thoughtlessness. He told me,
+and I believe sincerely, that he greatly regretted it, and promised
+to use his influence to amend matters, but said what was perfectly
+true, that if he gave good advice, there were plenty of people quite
+ready to offer the reverse, and contradict his statements. I often
+thought what an advantage it would have been, if we had insisted on
+all authority being in the hands of one powerful minister responsible
+to us. Under a strong man like Chandra Kirtee Singh there would have
+been some difficulty in arranging it, but under his weak, though
+amiable and intelligent successor, Soor Chandra, it would have been
+easy, and would have saved us one of the most painful and disgraceful
+episodes in our history.
+
+Almost every day brought some exciting news from the frontier. One
+day, an incursion by Chussad Kukies on the Kubo side; another, an
+outrage committed by Sookti Kukies. Then a little later a report that
+the Muram Nagas were restless. All these reports came to me at once,
+and I had to decide what was to be done. Occasionally an expedition
+was the result, regarding the conduct of which I gave general
+instructions. Sometimes late at night a minister came to me in a high
+state of excitement at some outrage on the Burmese frontier, in which,
+of course, every one, from the Court of Mandalay downwards, was said
+to be implicated. Anything against Burmah was readily believed, and
+not without reason, perhaps, judging from past history, and I had,
+on the spur of the moment, to decide on the policy to be adopted,
+and calm down and convince my impulsive visitor.
+
+Manipur is a great place for athletics, and some fine wrestling is to
+be seen there. Athletic sports are regularly held at stated periods,
+sometimes for Manipuris, at other times for Nagas. At the last there
+are races run by men, carrying heavy weights on their backs. At the
+conclusion of these exhibitions of strength and skill, four Manipuris,
+dressed in Naga costume, executed a Naga war dance. This I always
+thought the most interesting part of the performance, showing as
+in many other cases, the tacit acknowledgment of a connection with
+the hill-tribes surrounding them. It always reminded me of the
+same connection between the Rajahs in the hill tracts of Orissa,
+Sumbulpore and Chota Nagpore, and their aboriginal subjects. I am
+rather inclined to believe that in the case of Manipur some of the
+customs point distinctly to the Rajahs being descended from, or having
+been originally installed by, the hill-tribes, as was notably the
+case in Keonjhur one of the Cuttack Tributary Mehals. To this subject,
+however, I have already referred.
+
+During each cold season, I insisted on the Manipuri troops being put
+through musketry practice with ball cartridge, and often attended
+for hours together, with the Maharajah, to see how the men acquitted
+themselves. Sometimes the firing went on all day, the targets being
+erected at one end of the private polo ground in the palace, with a
+mountain of rice straw in their rear to catch stray bullets. Sometimes
+the bullets went through everything, and one evening, as my wife
+and myself with the children, were taking our evening walk, we had
+ocular demonstration of this, as a shot passed close to my second
+boy's (Edward) head. I spoke to Thangal Major about it, suggesting
+that the pile of straw should be made thicker, but only elicited the
+reply, "Of course, if you go in the line of fire, you must expect to
+be shot." This reminded me of my early days in Assam, when my old
+regimental friend Ross shot another friend out snipe shooting. The
+latter complained, but all the satisfaction he got from Ross was,
+"Well, you must have been in the way."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+    Spring in Manipur--Visit to Kombang--Manipuri orderlies--Parade
+    of the Maharajah's guards--Birth of a daughter--An evening walk
+    in the capital--Polo--Visit to Cachar.
+
+
+The spring in Manipur is a charming time, the nights are still cool,
+though the days are hot, and abundance of flowering trees come into
+blossom; among them one that attains a considerable size, called
+in Manipuri "Chinghow." It has two kinds, one with pink and the
+other white and pink flowers, Out in the hills are wild pears and
+azaleas in abundance, and rhododendrons, while here and there are
+beautiful orchids. The oak forests too are splendid with the fresh
+young leaves, and every hill village has peach trees in flower, so
+that it is a delightful season for marching, and one can be out from
+morning till night. I took advantage of the fine weather, and early
+in April again visited the Yoma range, and went along the road to
+Jangapokee Tannah, as far as a place called Kombang, 4600 feet above
+the sea. On my way there and back I halted at Haitoo-pokpee, 2600
+feet above the sea, where the thermometer at sunrise stood at 55 and
+56 degrees respectively; but the day between, when I was at Kombang,
+it was 67 degrees at sunrise, the additional elevation raising the
+thermometer. I noticed the phenomenon over and over again in Manipur,
+and in the cold weather generally found the sunrise temperature lower
+in the valley than in the hills. Upland valleys were sometimes colder
+than that of Manipur, and now and then to the north I found very great
+cold prevailing on high land, as at Mythephum. The day temperature
+in the hills was invariably lower than that in the valley, in short,
+it was more equable. The road to Kombang was pretty, but the place not
+particularly so. The night I was there I heard the loud crackling of
+a burning oak forest set on fire to clear the ground for one crop. It
+is difficult to speak with patience of this abominable system, which
+is gradually clearing the hills in Eastern India, and destroying
+valuable timber, while it encourages nomadic habits in the tribes.
+
+Whenever I went on an expedition into the hills, besides the usual
+Manipuri Guard in attendance, four or five officers or non-commissioned
+officers were told off to accompany me. Jemadars Thamur Singh, Sowpa,
+Sundha, Thut-t�t, and Th�r�ng were those generally sent, excellent
+men who never left me from morning till night, on the hardest
+march. Many was the adventure we had together, and any one of them
+could march fifty miles on end. They were well known throughout the
+hill territory of Manipur. A bugler always formed one of my party,
+and it was his duty to sound a lively quick march as we approached
+our camp in the evening. Of course, he always got a special reward
+from me on my return to headquarters.
+
+One day the Maharajah invited me to attend a review of his regiment
+of guards called the "Soor Pultun." I went, and he asked me whether
+he should put them through their manoeuvres himself, or let one of
+his officers do it. Not wishing him, as I thought, to expose his
+ignorance, I suggested the last; but, to my surprise, he conducted
+the parade himself very creditably, giving the word of command in
+English with great clearness. The men's marching was poor, and the
+step not free enough, but otherwise they did well. They were fairly
+well up in the Light Infantry exercises of ten years back, and their
+drill generally was a slight modification of that of 1859. On this,
+as on most occasions, when an invitation was sent by the Maharajah,
+it was conveyed by two or three officers of not lower rank than that
+of subadar or captain, and generally by word of mouth. If I was away
+in camp all communications were by letter, sometimes accompanied by
+a verbal message.
+
+On February 28th, 1879, we were gladdened by the birth of a little
+daughter. Being a girl, her arrival did not cause as much excitement
+as Arthur's, but when she was old enough to be carried out in a small
+litter, all the population turned out to see her, and passers-by
+would sometimes offer her a flower. How interesting our daily walks
+were. Turning to the left, after leaving our gate by the guard-house,
+we passed along by the wide moat surrounding the palace, and in which
+as has been said the great annual boat races were held. There, might
+be seen women washing their babies by the waterside in wooden tubs,
+cut out of a single block bought for the purpose. At every step, if
+in the evening, we passed or were passed by gaily clad women carrying
+baskets of goods to sell in the great bazaar, "Sena Kaithel," i.e.,
+Golden Bazaar, assembled opposite the great gate of the palace, the
+picturesque structure already alluded to. In this bazaar the women
+sat in long rows on raised banks of earth, without any other covering
+in the rainy weather than large umbrellas. Here could be bought cloth
+of all kinds, ornaments, rice, etc., fowls and vegetables. Dogs were
+also sold for food. As a rule, articles of food other than fowls,
+were more plentiful in the morning bazaar. Blind people and other
+beggars would post themselves in different parts of the market,
+and women as they passed would give them a handful of rice, or any
+other article of food they possessed. Women are the great traders,
+and many would walk miles in the morning, and buy things in the more
+distant bazaars to sell again in the capital in the evening. It was
+not considered etiquette for men too often to frequent the bazaars,
+and few Manipuris did so, but crowds of hill-men were constantly
+to be seen there, and it presented a very gay and animated scene,
+the contrast between the snow-white garments of Manipuri men, the
+parti-coloured petticoats of the women, and the many-coloured clothes
+of the hill-men being very picturesque. Opposite the great gateway on
+the right-hand side, Royal proclamations were posted up. There, too,
+in presence of all the bazaar, offenders were flogged, generally with
+the utmost severity. This was, I am sorry to say, rather an attractive
+spectacle to foreigners. Going through the bazaar along a fine broad
+road, the only masonry bridge in the country was seen crossing the
+river, and on the opposite bank the road turned sharp to the left,
+and went off to Cachar. Before crossing it, and to the left was a
+piece of waste ground with a rather ill-looking tree in it, under
+which men were executed. Opposite, and to the right of the road,
+was the sight of the morning bazaar. Here I have seen boat-loads of
+pine-apples landed, fruit that would have done credit to Covent Garden.
+
+Between the Residency grounds, the "Sena Kaithel" and the great road,
+was the famous polo ground, where the best play in the world might be
+seen. There was a grand stand for the Royal family on the western side,
+and one for myself on the north. Sunday evening was the favourite day,
+and then the princes appeared, and in earlier days the Maharajah. In
+my time one of the Maharajah's sons, Pucca Sena, and the artillery
+major, were the champion players. In Manipur, every man who can muster
+a pony plays, and every boy who cannot, plays on foot.
+
+But to continue our walk. Passing the bazaar, we still skirt the
+palace, meeting fresh groups and turning sharp round at one of the
+angles of the moat, here covered with water lilies, come upon an
+exceedingly picturesque temple once shaded with a peepul tree (Ficus
+religiosa); this tree was torn off by the great earthquake of June
+30th, 1880. Afterwards taking two turns to the right, and one to the
+left, and crossing a most dangerous-looking bamboo bridge, we came upon
+a piece of woodland on the opposite bank of the stream. This is the
+"Mah Wathee," a bit of forest left as it originally was for the wood
+spirits. It is now filled with monkeys, which are great favourites
+with my children who have brought rice for them which causes great
+excitement. But it is soon bedtime for the young monkeys, and the
+river being deep, they spring on to the backs of their mothers who
+swim across with them in the most human fashion. Saying good-night to
+the monkeys, we go homewards, passing Moirang Khung, a tumulus said
+to be the site of a battle between the Mungang and Moirang tribes; to
+this day a Moirang avoids it. We pass a couple of boys riding jauntily
+on one pony, determined to get as much pleasure out of life as they
+can. Finally, we reach home in time for a game with the children,
+and dinner.
+
+I have alluded to the high esteem in which the game of polo was held in
+this, its native home, and of the splendid play that could be seen on
+Sundays. I never played myself, much as I should have enjoyed it. Had
+I been a highly experienced player, able to contend with the best in
+Manipur, I might have done so; but I did not think I was justified,
+holding the important position I did, in running the risk of being
+hustled and jostled by any one with whom I played: men whom I was
+bound to keep at arm's length. Had I done so I should have lost
+influence. I could not be hail-fellow-well-met, and though talking
+freely with all, I at once checked all disposition to familiarity,
+and people rarely attempted it.
+
+Colonel McCulloch, it is true played, but he began life in Manipur
+as an Assistant Political Agent, and also did not succeed to office
+as I did, when our prestige had dwindled down to nothing.
+
+In September 1879, hearing that Sir Steuart Bayley, Chief Commissioner
+and Acting Lieut.-Governor of Bengal, was about to visit Cachar,
+I went there to see him, performing the double journey including a
+night there, in less than seven days. It was the first time I had
+made the march in the rainy season, and I was greatly struck by the
+extreme beauty of the scenery which was much enhanced by the number
+of waterfalls, that a month later would have been dry. The masses
+of clouds and the clearness of the air when rain was not falling,
+added greatly to the effect, and I enjoyed the journey till I got
+to the low-lying land. There the mud, slush, and great heat were
+unpleasant. It was very satisfactory to be able to discuss the affairs
+of Manipur with the Chief Commissioner, as though I was not then
+directly under him, I was from my position very dependent on him,
+and was anxious to hear his views on many subjects.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+    Punishment of female criminals--A man saved from execution--A Kuki
+    executed--Old customs abolished--Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh--The
+    Manipuri army--Effort to re-organise Manipur levy--System
+    of rewards--"Nothing for nothing"--An English school--Hindoo
+    festivals--Rainbows--View from Kang-joop-kool.
+
+
+Manipur professed to follow the old Hindoo laws, and accordingly no
+woman was ever put to death, or to very severe punishment. When one was
+convicted of any heinous or disgraceful offence she was exposed on a
+high platform in every bazaar in the country, stripped to the waist,
+round which a rope, one end of which was held by her guard, was tied
+and her breasts painted red. A crier at the same time proclaimed her
+crime, and with a loud voice called out from time to time, "Come and
+look at this naughty woman!"
+
+Exposure on a platform was also a punishment inflicted occasionally
+on male offenders. Sometimes it was followed by death. Once I saved a
+man from this part of the sentence, his crime being one for which our
+law would not have exacted so severe a penalty. Fortunately, I heard
+in time, and a message to the Maharajah in courteous, but unmistakable
+terms, brought about a remission of the capital portion. The ministers
+generally consulted me before carrying out sentence of death. Once in
+a case of murder by a Kuki they asked my opinion, so I requested them
+to send the man to me that I might examine him myself. This was done,
+and as he confessed openly to being guilty, I told them they might
+execute him, and as an after-thought said "How shall you put him to
+death?" Bularam Singh replied, "According to the custom of Manipur,
+in the way in which he committed the murder. As he split his victim's
+head open with an axe so will his head be split open." I said "I have
+no objection in this case on the score of humanity, but it is not a
+pretty mode of execution; some day there will be a case accompanied
+by circumstances of cruelty, when I shall be obliged to interfere;
+so take my advice, and on this occasion and all future ones, adopt
+decapitation as the mode of carrying out a death sentence. You can
+do it now with a good grace, and without any apparent interference
+on my part to offend your dignity." Old Bularam Singh said, "Oh no,
+the laws of Manipur are unalterable, we cannot change; we must do
+as we have always done." I said, "Nonsense, my old friend, go with
+Chumder Singh (my native secretary and interpreter) and give my kind
+message to the Maharajah, and say what I advise, as his friend." In
+half-an-hour Chumder Singh returned with an assurance that my advice
+was accepted, and from that time decapitation was the form of capital
+punishment adopted.
+
+I never knew a case of torture being employed, but otherwise the laws
+were carried out with severity. Ghumbeer Singh (reigned 1825-34)
+occasionally tore out an offender's eyes, but such things had been
+forgotten in the days of his son, and though the Government was
+strong, probably there were fewer acts of cruelty than in most native
+states. Once when Ghumbeer Singh had lately introduced tame geese
+into the country; he gave two to a Brahmin to take care of. It was
+reported that a goose was dead. "Tell the Brahmin to eat it," said
+the indignant Rajah. The severity of such an order to a Hindoo will be
+appreciated, by any one knowing what loss of caste entails. Ghumbeer
+Singh's orders were always implicitly obeyed, so I am afraid that
+the sentence was carried into effect.
+
+The army consisted of about 5000 men at the outside, in eight regiments
+of infantry and an artillery corps. The famous cavalry was a thing
+of the past, and many of the infantry were quite unacquainted with
+drill. There were eight three-pounder brass guns, and two seven-pounder
+mountain guns given as a reward for services in the Naga Hills,
+one of which did admirable service in the Burmese war. Most of the
+infantry were armed with smooth-bore muskets, some being of the
+Enfield pattern. Besides the above, there were about 1000 to 12,000
+Kuki Irregulars. A Manipuri military expedition was a strange sight,
+the men besides their arms and ammunition carrying their spare clothes,
+cooking vessels, food, etc., on their backs. All the same, they could
+make long and tiring marches day after day on poor fare and without
+a complaint, and at the end of a hard day would hut themselves and
+fortify their position with great skill, however great the fatigue
+they had undergone. It was a standing rule that in an enemy's country
+a small force should always stockade itself, and a Manipuri army well
+commanded was then able to hold its own against a sudden attack. On
+their return from a successful expedition the troops were greatly
+honoured, and the general in command accorded a kind of triumph, and
+it was an interesting sight to see the long thin line of picturesque
+and often gaily-clad troops, regulars and irregulars winding their
+way through the streets and groves of the capital bearing with them
+spoils and trophies gained in war. Here a party headed by banners,
+there some Kukis beating small gongs and chanting in a monotonous
+tone. Finally, after marching round two sides of the palace, they
+enter by the great gate, pass between the Chinese walls, and again
+between the two lions (so called), and being received by the Maharajah
+at the Gate of Triumph, their General throws himself at his feet and
+receives his chief's benediction, the greatest reward that he can have.
+
+I realised from the first that it would be an immense advantage
+to reconstitute the Manipur Levy, and keep up a permanent force of
+800 men under my direct orders, properly paid, armed, clothed and
+disciplined. I foresaw that a war with Burmah was a mere question of
+time, and wished to have a force ready, so as to enable the British
+Government to act with effect at a moment's notice through Manipur,
+on the outbreak of hostilities. Regular troops eat no more than
+irregular, and are ten times as valuable. My plan was to have 800 men
+enlisted, of whom 200 would have come on duty in rotation, according
+to the Manipur system, all being liable to assemble at a moment's
+notice. Thus a splendid battalion of hardy men could have been formed,
+with which I could have marched to Mandalay. Such a force would have
+been absolutely invaluable when the war broke out in 1885, men able to
+stand the climate, march, fight, row boats, dig, build stockades, in
+fact do all that the best men could be called upon to do. However, to
+my great disappointment, the idea did not commend itself to Government,
+and I never ceased to regret it. I often later on thought of the lives
+and money that might have been saved in 1885-86 had we been better
+prepared, the cost of the proposed levy would have been trifling.
+
+One part of the Manipuri system ever struck me as very admirable,
+and I tried always to encourage it; that was the system of rewarding
+services by honorary distinctions. The permission to wear a peculiar
+kind of turban, coat, or feather, or to assume a certain title was
+more valued than any money reward, and men would exert themselves
+for years for the coveted distinction. It is charming to see such
+simple tastes and to aspire no higher than to do one's duty and earn
+the approval of our fellow-creatures.
+
+One day the two ministers Thangal Major and Bularam Singh came to
+see me, accompanied by old Rooma Singh Major. They looked rather
+uneasy, and I suspected something was coming out. Presently Thangal
+rose and saluted me, and said, "The Maharajah has promoted us to
+be generals." I received the intelligence without any enthusiasm,
+feeling assured that the act had been dictated by a desire to give
+them a more high-sounding title than my military one, I being then
+only a lieut.-colonel. It was in fact a piece of self-assertion. Any
+one understanding Asiatics will know what I mean, and that I knew
+instinctively it was a move in the game against me which I ought to
+check. I coldly replied that of course the Maharajah would please
+himself, but that I loved old things, old names, and old faces, and
+that I had so many pleasant associations with the old titles that I
+could not bring myself to use the new ones, and should continue to
+call them by the dear old name of Major. I then shook hands with them
+most cordially and said good-bye, and they left rather crestfallen,
+where they had hoped and intended to be triumphant. I may as well tell
+the remainder of the story. Time after time was I begged to address
+my three friends as "General," but I was inexorable, and the titles
+almost fell into disuse among the Manipuris who had at first adopted
+them. Old Thangal once had a long talk about it, and I said plainly,
+"I give nothing for nothing: some day when you do something I shall
+address you as General." Years passed. I went on leave, and my locum
+tenens too good-naturedly gave in, and addressed them as General, and
+even induced the Chief Commissioner of the day to do likewise. When
+he wrote to me and told me of it, I was naturally not very pleased,
+and mentioned it to an old Indian friend, who said, "Well, you will
+have to do the same now that the Chief Commissioner has." However,
+I was not going to swerve from my word. I returned to Manipur, and one
+of the ministers met me on the boundary river. I again greeted him as
+"Major Sahib," and immediately the new titles again began to fall into
+disuse. I told the Chief Commissioner my views when I next met him,
+and he approved, as I said I could not alter my word.
+
+Some time after this I again renewed efforts that I had long been
+making for the establishment of an English school in Manipur. The
+Durbar naturally objected; wisely from their point of view, they knew
+as well as I did that the fact of their subjects learning English would
+eventually mean a better administration of justice, and a gradual
+sweeping away of abuses. I felt, however, that the time was come,
+and I urged the question with great force, and one day said to the
+ministers, "You have long wanted to be addressed as 'General,' and I
+told you that when you did something worthy of it I should do so. Now
+the day that the Maharajah gives his consent to an English school being
+established, I shall address you as General." A few days afterwards the
+Maharajah's consent was brought. I immediately stood up and shook hands
+most warmly with them, saying, "I thank you cordially, Generals." From
+that day the question was finally set at rest, after years of longing
+on the part of the old fellows. We had always understood each other,
+and they felt and respected the part I had taken, and, I believe,
+valued their titles all the more from my not having given in at once.
+
+The Rath Jatra Festival, i.e., the drawing of the Car of Juggernaut,
+is greatly honoured in Manipur, and every village has its Rath
+(car). The Dewali, the feast of lights, is also faithfully kept. Also
+the Rathwal, one of the feasts of Krishna, when there are many
+dances, and an enormous bird is cleverly constructed of cloth with a
+bamboo framework, and a man inside, who struts about to the delight
+of the children. The Koli Saturnalia is also duly celebrated; the
+red powder "Abeer," is thrown about amongst those who can get it,
+and the burning of the temporary shrines lights up the sky at night,
+and the holes where the poles stood, are a fertile source of danger to
+ponies and pedestrians for weeks afterwards. The Durga Poojah is kept,
+but is a feast of minor importance. At the Rath Jatra the number of
+people drawn together was enormous, and the white mass could be very
+distinctly seen from Kang-joop-kool with a telescope, when the weather
+was clear. This view was sometimes obscured by clouds, and often when
+staying there did I wake up to see the whole of the valley filled up
+with fog, like a vast sea of cotton-wool, stretching across to the
+Yoma range of hills many miles away.
+
+Lunar rainbows were not uncommon in Manipur, and I often saw them from
+Kang-joop-kool. Often, too, from thence have I seen a complete solar
+rainbow, each end resting on the level surface of the valley. Once,
+in riding to Sengmai on a misty morning, I saw a white rainbow rising
+from the ground; a fine and weird sight it was.
+
+The view over the valley at night from the surrounding hills was
+sometimes wonderful. I never shall forget one night in the rainy
+season, when the moon was shining brightly in the valley, but obscured
+from my view by an intervening cloud; the bright reflection on the
+watery plain sent out a long stream of light which brightened up
+the glistening temples of the Capelat. This, and the dim hills in
+the distance, and the whole amphitheatre enclosed by them lighted
+up faintly, while the dark threatening cloud hanging in air between
+me and the rising moon, that had not yet apparently reached my level
+(I was 2500 feet above the valley, and seemed to be looking down on
+the moon), made a picture never to be forgotten.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+    Mr. Damant--The Naga Hills--Rumours on which I act--News of
+    revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant's surrender--Maharajah's
+    loyalty--March to the relief of Kohima--Relief of Kohima--Incidents
+    of siege--Heroism of ladies--A noble defence.
+
+
+In November, 1878, Mr. Damant removed the headquarters of the Naga
+Hills District from Samagudting to Kohima, and established himself
+there with his party, in two stockades. He had a very ample force for
+maintaining his position, but he had not sufficient to make coercing
+a powerful village an easy task. He was an able man, with much force
+of character, high-minded and upright, and had been greatly respected
+in Manipur, where he acted as Political Agent for some months after
+Dr. Brown's death. He was also a scholar, and was perhaps the only
+man of his generation in Assam capable of taking a comprehensive view
+of the languages of the Eastern Frontier, and searching out their
+origin. His premature death was an irreparable loss to philology.
+
+With all this he had not had sufficient experience with wild tribes to
+be a fit match for the astute Nagas, and was constantly harassed by the
+difficulty in the way of securing supplies, which ought to have been
+arranged for him, in the early days of our occupation of Samagudting,
+by making terms with the Nagas as to providing food carriage. It was
+his misfortune that he inherited an evil system. We had been forced
+into the hills by the lawlessness of the Naga tribes, and we ought to
+have made them bear their full share of the inconveniences attendant
+on our occupation, instead of making our own people suffer.
+
+Mr. Damant at first contemplated getting his supplies from Manipur,
+through the Durbar, but they objected, it being their traditional
+policy to prevent the export of rice for fear of famines, the distance
+and cost of transport making the import, in case of scarcity, an
+impossibility. I declined to put pressure, as I saw the reasonableness
+of the Durbar argument, and I objected to force the hill population
+of Manipur to spend their time in carrying heavy loads, to save the
+turbulent and lazy Angamis. In September, 1879, however, I heard a
+rumour from native sources that Mr. Damant was in great difficulties
+and straits for want of provisions, [22] and I wrote and told him
+that if it were true, I would make every effort to send him some
+supplies, and to help him in every way I could. I did not receive
+any answer to this letter, and subsequently ascertained that it had
+never reached him.
+
+I knew the Angamis well, and was very anxious about Mr. Damant and
+his party, and felt sure that some trouble was at hand.
+
+About this time my wife's health began to give me much anxiety; she
+had one or two severe attacks of illness, and was much reduced in
+strength. Who that has not experienced it can imagine the terrible,
+wearing anxiety of life on a distant frontier, without adequate medical
+aid for those nearest and dearest to us. She was better, though still
+very weak, when an event occurred that shook the whole frontier.
+
+Early in the morning of October 21st, I received a report from Mao
+Tannah, the Manipuri outpost on the borders of the Naga Hills, to the
+effect that a rumour had reached the officer there, that the Mozuma
+Nagas had attacked either Kohima, or a party of our men somewhere else,
+and had killed one hundred men. I have already mentioned my anxiety
+about Mr. Damant's position, and there was an air of authenticity
+about the report which made me feel sure that some catastrophe had
+occurred, and that he was in sore need. I said to Thangal Major,
+"We will take off fifty per cent. for exaggeration, and even then the
+garrison of Kohima will be so weakened that it is sure to be attacked,
+and there will be a rising in the Naga Hills."
+
+I instantly took my resolve and detained my escort of the 34th B.I.,
+which had just been relieved by a party of Frontier Police, and was
+about to march for Cachar. I also applied to the Maharajah for nine
+hundred Manipuris, and sufficient coolies to convey our baggage. He
+at once promised them, and I made arrangements to march as soon as
+the men were ready; but there was some delay, as the men had to be
+collected from distant villages. The next morning, before sunrise,
+Thangal Major came to see me, bringing two letters from Mr. Cawley,
+Assistant Political Agent, Naga Hills, and District Superintendent of
+Police. The letters told me that Mr. Damant had been killed by the
+Konoma men, and that he and the remainder were besieged in Kohima,
+and sorely pressed by Nagas of several villages. Immediately after
+this, the Maharajah himself came and placed his whole resources at
+my disposal, and asked me what I would have. I said two thousand men,
+and he replied that that was the number he himself thought necessary,
+and asked if he should fire the usual five alarm guns, as a signal
+to call every able-bodied man to the capital. I consented, and in
+ten minutes they thundered forth their summons. Coolies to carry the
+loads were the chief difficulty, as they, being hill-men, lived at
+a greater distance. I also despatched a special messenger to Cachar
+to ask for more troops and a doctor; and I made arrangements for
+assisting them on the road. I despatched two hundred Manipuris by a
+difficult and little-frequented path to Paplongmai (Kenoma [23]),
+to make a diversion in the rear of Konoma, as, from all I heard,
+it seemed that the astute Mozuma was not involved. I sent on a man
+I could trust to the Mozuma people, to secure their neutrality. I
+also sent my Naga interpreter, Patakee, to Kohima, to do his best
+to spread dissension amongst its seven different clans and prevent
+their uniting against me. I gave him a pony, and told him to ride it
+till it dropped under him, and then to march on foot for his life,
+and promised him 200 rupees reward if he could deliver a letter to
+Mr. Cawley before the place fell. In the letter I begged Mr. Cawley
+to hold out to the last as I was marching to his assistance.
+
+One day, about a year before, a fine young Naga of Viswema, a powerful
+village of 1000 houses, a few miles beyond the frontier of Manipur and
+right on our track, had come to me and asked me to take him into my
+service. I did so, thinking he might be useful some day, and now that
+the day had arrived, I sent him off to his people to win them over,
+threatening to exterminate them if they opposed my march.
+
+I had fifty men of the Cachar Police and thirty-four of the 34th B.I.,
+including two invalids, one of them a Naik, by name Buldeo Doobey,
+who came out of hospital to go with me, as I wanted every man who could
+shoulder a musket. For the same reason I enlisted a volunteer, Narain
+Singh, a fine fellow, a J�t [24] from beyond Delhi, who had served
+in the 35th B.I., so he took a breach-loader belonging to a sick man
+of the 34th. I shall refer to him again. He carried one hundred and
+twenty rounds of ball cartridge on his person, three times as much
+as the men of the 34th. I sent off my combined escort with all the
+Manipuris who were ready under Thangal Major, and stayed behind to
+collect and despatch supplies and write official letters and send off
+telegrams to Sir Steuart Bayley, and on the 23rd rode out, and caught
+up my men at Mayang Khang, forty miles from Manipur. The rear-guard
+of the 34th had not come up when I went to bed that night at 11 P.M.
+
+I left my poor wife still very weak and I was thankful that she had her
+good sister as a stay and support. Just before leaving, our youngest
+boy Arthur held out his arms to be taken. I paused from my work for
+a moment and took him. It was the last time I saw him. Sad as was my
+parting, I rode off in high spirits; who would not do so when he feels
+that he may be privileged to do his country signal service! Besides,
+I hoped to find all well when I returned.
+
+We left Mayang Khang on October 24th and marched to Mythephum, twenty
+miles along a terribly difficult mountain path, much overgrown by
+jungle. It was all I could do to get the 34th along, as they were
+completely knocked up. I had a pony which I lent for part of the way
+to one of my invalids and so helped him on. I was continually obliged
+to halt myself and wait for the stragglers, cheer them up, and then
+run to the front again. Narain Singh was invaluable and seemed not
+to know fatigue. We reached Mythephum after dark, but the rear-guard
+did not arrive till next morning.
+
+At Mythephum I mustered my forces. The Maharajah had sent the Jubraj
+and Kotwal Koireng with me (little did I think of the fate in store
+for them and for old Thangal [25]) and found that very few Manipuris
+had arrived, and almost all of the force with me were so knocked
+up that, to my intense disappointment, I had to make a halt. I was
+too restless to sit still, so spent the day in reconnoitring the
+country. In the evening I had an interview with Thangal Major and
+afterwards with the Jubraj. Old Thangal was for halting till we
+could collect a large force as he said a large one was required,
+and he begged me to halt for a few days. I finally pointed out that
+a day's halt might cause the annihilation of the garrison of Kohima,
+and said that if the Manipuris were not ready to move, I would go
+along with any of my own men who could march. I appealed to the
+Jubraj to support me which he did, [26] and for which I was ever
+grateful, and we arranged to march next day. I found that the Nagas
+of Manipur were infected with a rebellious spirit, and not entirely
+to be depended on, and any vacillation on our part might have been
+fatal, and would certainly have sealed the fate of Kohima.
+
+We left Mythephum at daybreak on the 26th, and marched as hard as we
+could, as I hoped to cover the forty miles to Kohima by nightfall. We
+stopped to drink water at the Mao river, which we forded, and to
+prevent men wasting time, I drew my revolver and threatened to shoot
+any one who dawdled. We ascended the steep hillside, and passing
+through one of the villages marched on to Khoijami, a village on the
+English side of the border. We had been so long, owing to the extreme
+badness of the roads, and the fatigue of the men, that we only reached
+it at 3 P.M., so I reluctantly halted for the night.
+
+Here my emissary to Viswema joined me, and told me that he had induced
+his fellow-villagers to be friendly, and that presents would be sent. I
+sent him back to demand hostages, and the formal submission of the
+village, as otherwise I would attack them on the morrow and spare no
+one. It was not a time for soft speeches, and I heard rumours that
+we were to be opposed next day.
+
+Late in the afternoon some Mao Nagas brought in seven Nepaulee coolies
+who had escaped from Kohima the previous day, and wandered through the
+jungle expecting every moment to be killed. I gave the Mao men twenty
+rupees as a reward. The Nepaulees said that they had been shut outside
+the gate of the stockade by mistake, and had hidden themselves and
+so got away. They gave a deplorable account of affairs, and said that
+there was no food, and that the ammunition was almost all spent, and
+that two ladies were in the stockade, Mrs. Damant and Mrs. Cawley. They
+stated that Mr. Damant was taken unawares and shot dead, and fifty men
+killed on the spot, and that thirty ran away and hid in the jungles,
+some saving their arms, others not. Each man had fifty rounds of ball
+cartridge. Most of the rifles lost were breech-loaders. The men told
+me that early that morning they had seen smoke rising from Kohima,
+and thought it might have been burned.
+
+All this made me very anxious, as the men said that Mr. Cawley was
+treating for a safe passage to Samagudting. Late in the evening I heard
+that a building inside the stockade had been burned by the Nagas, who
+threw stones wrapped in burning cloth on to the thatched roofs. The
+Nagas in arms were said to number six thousand, and they had erected
+a stockade opposite ours from which they fired. The fugitives were
+in a miserable state of semi-starvation, and ashy pale from terror,
+and seemed more dead than alive when they were brought to me. We slept
+on our arms that night, at least such as could sleep, and rose at 3
+A.M. in case of an attack, that being a favourite time for the Nagas
+to make one.
+
+When ready, I addressed my men, telling them the danger of the
+enterprise, but assuring them of its success, and urging them, in
+case of my being killed or wounded, to leave me and push on to save
+the garrison. I promised the Frontier Police that every man should
+be promoted if we reached Kohima safely that night. This promise the
+Government faithfully kept.
+
+At sunrise I received two little slips of paper brought by two
+Nepaulese coolies who had managed to escape, signed by Mr. Hinde,
+Extra Assistant Commissioner, and hidden by them in their hair. On
+them was written:--
+
+
+Surrounded by Nagas, cut off from water Must be relieved at once. Send
+flying column to bring away garrison at once. Relief must be immediate
+to be of any use
+
+H. M. Hinde. A. P. A. Kohima. 25 x. 79.
+
+
+and--
+
+
+We are in extremity, come on sharp Kohima not abandoned.
+Kohima not abandoned
+
+
+H. M. Hinde. A. P. A. 26 x. 79.
+
+
+After getting these, I could not wait any longer, and, as the Manipuris
+were not all ready, I started off at once with fifty of them under
+an old officer, Eerungba Polla and sixty of my escort, all that were
+able to make a rapid march, and Narain Singh. We carried with us my
+camp Union Jack.
+
+I obtained hostages from Viswema and placed them under a guard with
+orders to shoot them instantly, if we were attacked, and on our arrival
+at the village we were well received. At Rigwema, as we afterwards
+discovered, a force of Nagas was placed in ambush to attack us, but
+the precautions we took prevented their doing so, and we passed on
+unmolested, and soon had the satisfaction of seeing the stockade at
+Kohima still intact. A few miles farther, and on rounding the spur of
+a hill, the stockade appeared in full view and we sounded our bugles
+which were quickly answered by a flourish from Kohima.
+
+We marched on with our standard flying, we reached the valley below,
+we began the ascent of the last slope, and forming into as good order
+as the ground would allow, we at last gained the summit and saw the
+stockade, to save which, we had marched so far and so well, before
+us at a distance of one hundred yards.
+
+The garrison gave a loud cheer, which we answered, and numbers of them
+poured out. Messrs. Cawley and Hinde grasped my hand, and others of the
+garrison formed a line on either side of the gateway, and we marched
+in between them. I recognised many old faces not seen since I had left
+the Naga Hills in 1874, and warmly greeted them; especially Mema Ram,
+a Subadar in the Frontier Police; Kurum Singh, and others. I was told
+afterwards that when Mema Ram first heard that I was marching to their
+relief, he said, "Oh, if Johnstone Sahib is coming we are all right."
+
+I at once told the officers of the garrison that there could be no
+divided authority, and that they must consider themselves subject to my
+orders, to which they agreed. I then saw the poor widowed Mrs. Damant,
+and Mrs. Cawley who had behaved nobly during the siege. While talking
+to the last, one of her two children asked for some water. Her mother
+said in a feeling tone, "Yes, my dear, you can have some now." Seldom
+have I heard words that sounded more eloquent.
+
+The Manipuris now began to pour in, in one long stream, and were
+greeted by the garrison with effusion, and I gave them the site of a
+stockade that had been destroyed by Mr. Cawley, in order to reduce the
+space to be defended as much as possible, and told them to stockade
+themselves, which they did at once. After arranging for the defence
+of our position, I sent off a letter to my wife to say that I was
+safe, and that Kohima had been relieved, and telegrams to the Chief
+Commissioner, and Government of India, to be sent on at once to Cachar,
+the nearest telegraph office, informing them of the good news.
+
+It appeared from what Mr. Cawley told me, that on the 14th of October,
+Mr. Damant had gone to Konoma from Jotsoma, to try and enforce some
+demands he had made. He had been warned several times that the Merema
+Clan of Konoma meant mischief, and several Nagas had implored him
+not to go, and finding him deaf to their entreaties, begged him to go
+through the friendly Semema Clan's quarter of the village. However,
+he insisted on having his own way, and went to the gate of the Merema
+Clan at the top of a steep, narrow path. The gate was closed, and
+while demanding an entrance, he was shot dead. His men were massed
+in rear of him, and a large number were at once shot down, while
+the others took to flight. Some of the fugitives reached Kohima that
+night, and Mr. Cawley at once, grasping the gravity of the situation,
+pulled down one stockade, and dismantled the buildings as already
+related, concentrating all his men in the other, and making it as
+strong as possible. The neighbouring villages had already risen,
+and were sending contingents to attack Kohima.
+
+Mr. Cawley had just time to send a messenger to Mr. Hinde, the
+extra-Assistant Commissioner at Woka, a distance of sixty-three miles,
+ordering him to come in with the detachment of fifty police under
+him. These orders Mr. Hinde most skilfully carried out, by marching
+only at night, and on the 19th he reached Kohima, thus strengthening
+the garrison and making it more able to hold its own, for the number
+of the attacking party now greatly increased.
+
+Most fortunately, owing to the zealous care of Major T. N. Walker,
+44th R. L. Infantry, there were some rations in reserve for the troops,
+which were shared with the non-combatants and police. These he had
+insisted on being collected and stored up, when he paid a visit of
+inspection to Kohima some months before. But for this small stock
+the place could not have held out for two days, but must inevitably
+have fallen, as all supplies were cut off during the progress of
+the siege. The water was poisoned by having a human head thrown into
+it. The Nagas fired at the stockade continually, but made no regular
+assault. They seemed to have tried picking off every man who showed
+himself, and starving out the garrison. The quantity of jungle that
+had been allowed to remain standing all round afforded them admirable
+cover, and, as before stated, they erected another small stockade
+from which to fire. This they constantly brought nearer and nearer
+by moving the timbers.
+
+At length, the garrison wearied out, entered into negotiations,
+and agreed to surrender the stockade, if allowed a free passage to
+Samagudting. This fatal arrangement would have been carried into
+effect within an hour or two, had not my letter arrived assuring them
+of help. What the result would have been no one who knows the Nagas can
+doubt; 545 headless and naked bodies would have been lying outside the
+blockade. Five hundred stands of arms, and 250,000 rounds of ammunition
+would have been in possession of the enemy, enough to keep the hills
+in a blaze for three years, and to give employment to half-a-dozen
+regiments during all that time, and to oblige an expenditure of a
+million sterling, to say nothing of valuable lives. [27]
+
+Throughout the siege, Mrs. Damant, and Mrs. Cawley had displayed much
+heroism. The first undertook to look after the wounded, and went to
+visit them daily, exposed to the enemy's fire. Mrs. Cawley took charge
+of the women and children of the sepoys, and looked after them, keeping
+them in a sheltered spot. The poor little children could not understand
+the situation at all, or why it was that the Nagas were firing.
+
+The casualties would have been more numerous than they were, but that
+the Nagas were careful of the cherished ammunition, and seldom fired,
+unless pretty sure of hitting. All the same, the situation was a very
+critical one, and not to be judged by people sitting quietly at home
+by their firesides. It is certainly a very awful thing, after a great
+disaster and massacre, to be shut up in a weak stockade built of highly
+inflammable material, and surrounded by 6000 howling savages who spare
+no one. In addition to that too, to have the water supply cut off,
+and at most ten days' full provision; for this was what it amounted
+to. It must be also remembered that the non-combatants far out-numbered
+the combatants, and that the two officers who undertook the defence
+were both civilians. Anyhow, the view taken of it by the defenders is
+shown by the fact that they were willing to surrender to the enemy,
+rather than face the situation and its terrible uncertainty any longer,
+as they were quite in doubt as to whether relief was coming or whether
+their letters having miscarried they would be left to perish.
+
+Looking back, after a lapse of fifteen years, and calmly reviewing
+the events connected with the siege of Kohima, I think I was right
+at the time in describing the defence as a "noble one."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+    Returning order and confidence--Arrival of Major Evans--Arrival
+    of Major Williamson--Keeping open communication--Attack on
+    Phesama--Visit to Manipur--General Nation arrives--Join him at
+    Suchema--Prepare to attack Konoma--Assault of Konoma.
+
+
+Early on the morning of the 28th, I took out all the men I could
+collect and set to work to clear away the jungle in the neighbourhood
+of the stockade so as to give no covert to enemies. I also did my
+utmost to collect supplies. Kohima, with its twelve hundred houses,
+was able to give a little, and I sent to distant villages. I also sent
+to the head-man of Konoma to ask for Mr. Damant's body. The man at
+once sent in the head, but said that the body had been destroyed. A
+true statement, I have no doubt, as the head is all the Nagas value,
+and the body would have been given up instantly had it existed. His
+signet ring, and several other little articles were also sent. The
+head was buried with due honours, the Manipuri chiefs drawing up
+their men and saluting as the funeral procession passed. The Jubraj,
+Soor Chandra Singh, spoke very feelingly on the subject.
+
+The watercourse, which formerly supplied the garrison, had been
+diverted, and the only other supply had been, as already stated,
+poisoned by a head being thrown into it. My first business was to see
+that the water communication was restored, to every one's comfort. Some
+of my old acquaintances among the Nagas began to come in, and there
+was a great disposition to be friendly.
+
+The next day a sepoy of the 43rd, who had escaped the massacre and
+lived in the jungle, was brought in by some friendly Nagas. He was
+almost out of his mind, and nearly speechless from terror, and could
+not walk, so was carried on the man's back.
+
+I made up my mind to attack Konoma as soon as I could, and the people
+knowing this, tried negotiations with my Manipuri allies. So great
+was the fear we inspired that at first I believe I could without
+difficulty have imposed more severe terms than were obtained later
+on after four months' fighting. With Asiatics especially, everything
+depends on the vigour with which an enterprise is pushed forward. The
+Nagas never expecting an attack from the side of Manipur, were at
+first paralysed. All the villages were without any but the most
+rudimentary defences, in addition to those which nature had given
+them from their position; not one of them could have stood against
+a well-directed attack.
+
+I was in the midst of my preparations when, on the 30th October, Major
+(now Major-General) Evans, of the 43rd Assam Light Infantry, arrived
+with two hundred men, who had come with him from Dibroogurh. I also
+received a telegram saying that General Nation was coming up with
+one thousand men and two mountain-guns, and might be expected on the
+9th November. I was also given strict orders to engage in no active
+operations till his arrival. These orders I at first disregarded,
+feeling the urgent necessity of instant action before the Nagas had
+time to recover from their surprise. However, next day the order was
+reiterated so strongly, and in the Chief Commissioner's name, that,
+believing that the Government had some special reason for the order,
+I accepted it, much to my disappointment, as I felt the urgent
+necessity of an immediate advance. Konoma was still unfortified,
+and a few days would have sufficed to capture it, and place the Naga
+Hills at our feet. As it was, the delay, not till November 9th, but
+November 22nd, owing to defective transport arrangements, gave the
+enemy time to recover, and when we tardily appeared before Konoma, we
+found a scientifically defended fortress, whose capture cost us many
+valuable lives. The order, it subsequently appeared, was not issued by
+Sir Steuart Bayley, [28] and was altogether due to a misapprehension.
+
+As there was to be no immediate work, I urged Major Evans to take
+up his post at Samagudting, where a magazine containing 200,000
+rounds of ammunition was very inefficiently guarded; he, however,
+left a subaltern, Lieut. (now Captain) Barrett with me, as I wanted
+another officer. On their way, some men of the 43rd had shot two
+Nagas, one a relation of the chief of the Hepromah clan of Kohima,
+a most unfortunate proceeding, and quite uncalled for, as the men were
+quietly working in their fields. I was already sufficiently embarrassed
+by the promises made by the garrison to the so-called friendly clans
+of Kohima, to induce them to be neutral during the siege, and which
+I felt bound to keep, and this additional complication added to my
+troubles. People situated as the garrison were should make no promises
+except in return for real help.
+
+All this time troops and supplies came pouring in from Manipur in
+one long thin stream, and the greatest efforts were made to collect
+supplies on the spot. I also forced the unfriendly Chitonoma clan of
+Kohima to surrender six rifles they had captured, and to pay a fine of
+200 maunds of rice. We had been expecting a force of Kuki irregulars
+from Manipur; these now arrived, and I had a talk with the chief,
+who said: "Our great desire is to attack that village," pointing to
+Kohima, "and to kill every man, woman, and child in it!" He looked
+as if he meant it.
+
+One day a cat was caught that had given great trouble stealing
+provisions, etc., we all wanted to get rid of it, but Hindoos do
+not like having cats killed, and I respected their prejudices when
+possible, and there were many Hindoos about us, so I said, "I won't
+have it killed, unless some one wants to eat it." A Kuki soon came and
+asked to be allowed to make a dinner of it, and then I gave my consent,
+and our scourge was removed. I once asked a sepoy of my old regiment
+why they objected to killing cats. He said, "People do say that if
+you kill a cat now you will have to give a golden cat in exchange in
+the next world as a punishment, and where are we to get one?"
+
+To keep open communications, I established Manipuri posts in strong
+stockades at all the principal villages on the road to the frontier,
+and had daily posts from Manipur. To my great distress, I heard that
+my youngest boy, Arthur, was ill, and my wife in much anxiety about
+him; but I could not leave to help her.
+
+Our forced inaction had, as I anticipated, been misinterpreted by the
+Nagas. Some decisive action was much needed, and I attacked the hostile
+Chitonoma clan of Kohima, and destroyed part of their village. On the
+10th, as a party of men were bringing in provisions from Manipur,
+they had been attacked by some of the Chitonoma clan in the valley
+below our position. I heard the firing, and ran out of the stockade
+with a party to drive off the enemy.
+
+At the gate, a man who had just arrived, put a letter in my hand. I
+read it anxiously, it told me that my child was dead. My wife and I
+had chosen a spot at Kang-joop-kool where we wished to be buried in
+case either of us died, and there she buried him.
+
+We soon cleared out the Chitonoma men, and I found that with the
+troops escorting the provisions was Dr. Campbell from Cachar, whose
+arrival was very welcome. I remember in connection with him a striking
+incident showing the courage of Manipuris in suffering. A man who
+had been wounded in an encounter had to have an operation performed
+on his arm. Dr. Campbell wanted to give him chloroform as it would be
+very painful. But the man refused, saying, "I will not take anything
+that intoxicates," and at once held out his arm and submitted to the
+knife without flinching!
+
+Every day the delay in the commencement of active operations made the
+Nagas more and more confident, and some vigorous action on our part
+was absolutely necessary. I heard from spies that our Manipuri post at
+Phesama was about to be attacked by the people of the village, who held
+nightly converse with emissaries from Konoma. I therefore determined to
+punish Phesama, which was not far from Kohima, and on November 11th,
+I sent a party of Manipuris and Kukis who destroyed the village in a
+night attack, and killed a large number of people. They brought in
+twenty-one women and children as prisoners whom the Manipuris had
+saved from the Kukis, who would have spared neither age nor sex had
+they gone alone.
+
+The next day my old friend Captain Williamson arrived to act as my
+assistant, I having been appointed Chief Political Officer with the
+Field Force that was being formed. Having now a competent man to leave
+in charge, I determined to go to Manipur for a few days, and marched
+to Mythephum on the 13th, and rode thence on the 14th to Manipur,
+accomplishing the whole distance of over 100 miles in thirty-one
+and a half hours. I stayed one day in Manipur and then returned,
+reaching Kohima on the 17th.
+
+On November 20th, General Nation having arrived at Suchema, ten
+miles from Kohima, Williamson and I left to join him. We were fired
+at on the road, but got in safely and found all well and in good
+spirits. The troops consisted of 43rd and 44th Assam Light Infantry and
+two seven-pound mountain-guns under Lieut. Mansel, R.A. Lieut. (now
+Major) Raban, R.E., was engineer-officer and Deputy Surgeon-General
+(now Surgeon-General, C.B.) De Renzy was in charge of the Medical
+Department. Major Cock, a well-known soldier and sportsman, was
+Brigade Major.
+
+On the 21st, the guns arrived on elephants, and feeling sure that
+no proper carriage could have been provided for their transport, I
+had taken the precaution to bring one hundred Kuki coolies to carry
+them. The assault was to be next day. Mozuma remained neutral, and
+even gave us a few coolies and guides. [29]
+
+How well I remember the night of the 21st. Williamson and I dined
+with the General and all the staff, and poor Cock, great on all
+sporting subjects, told us in the most animated way, stories of whaling
+adventures when he was on leave at the Cape. He warmed to his subject
+and greatly interested us; he was a fine gaunt man of over six feet
+in height, and great strength and ready for any enterprise; some of
+the Mozuma Nagas knew him and liked him as they had, years before,
+been on shooting expeditions with him in the Nowgong jungles. Besides
+this we had a surgical address from Dr. De Renzy, who told us what to
+do if any of us were wounded. How we all laughed over it, he joining
+us. I knew we should have some hard fighting, but we all counted
+on carrying everything before us with a rush, and who is there who
+expects to be wounded? We are ready for it if it comes, but we all
+think that we are to be the exception. It is as well that it is so.
+
+We were under arms at 4.30 A.M. on the 22nd. The first party consisting
+of two companies of the 43rd Assam Light Infantry and twenty-eight
+Naga Hills Police, under Major Evans and Lieut. Barrett, conducted by
+Captain Williamson, who knew the country, were directed to proceed to
+the rear of Konoma and occupy the saddle connecting the spur on which
+it is built with the main road, so as to cut off the line of retreat.
+
+At 7.30 A.M., the remaining portion of the force marched off. We
+all went together to the Mozuma Hill, where Lieut. Raban, R.E.,
+was detached with part of a rocket battery, to take up a position on
+the hillside and open fire on Konoma, simultaneously with the guns. A
+small force was left in Suchema, to which, on my own responsibility, I
+added one hundred and ten Kuki irregulars, as I thought it dangerously
+small for a place containing all our stores and reserve ammunition. At
+the General's request, I had posted a force of two hundred men in a
+valley to intercept fugitives, and cut them off from Jotsuma.
+
+After leaving Lieut. Raban, we crossed the valley dividing Mozuma
+and Konoma, and when half-way between the hills, Lieut. Ridgeway (now
+Colonel Ridgeway, V.C.) was sent with a company of the 44th to skirmish
+up to the Konoma hill. The main body with the guns then gradually
+ascended to the Government Road. Just before reaching it, we found
+a headless Aryan corpse in a stream, it was probably that of a sepoy
+of the 43rd, who formed part of Mr. Damant's ill-fated expedition.
+
+After going for a short distance along the road, we found a
+place up which the guns could go, and a party of fifty men under
+Lieut. Henderson, 44th Assam Light Infantry, was sent ahead to skirmish
+up the hillside, the guns carried by my coolies following with the
+General and his Staff, including myself. As we ascended the hill,
+Colonel Nuttall, with the remainder of the 44th, exclusive of the
+gun escort, proceeded along the road, crossing the small valley
+that divides the Konoma hill from the ridge of the Basoma hill
+which we were ascending, a few hundred yards from where it joins
+the main valley, and halted at the foot. After incredible labour,
+we succeeded in getting the guns into position at about 1200 yards
+distance from the highest point of Konoma, and at once opened fire,
+while Lieut. Raban did the same with his rockets which, however, for
+the most part fell short over the heads of Lieut. Ridgeway's party,
+though once two struck the village. On being signalled, Lieut. Raban
+withdrew his rockets and joined us. Meanwhile, the guns had made little
+impression on the people, and none on the stone forts of Konoma, but
+the 44th were advancing gallantly to the attack up the steep ascent
+to the village, a brisk fire being kept up on both sides.
+
+At about 2.30, the position of the guns was changed, and they were
+advanced to within eight hundred yards of the works, here one of my
+gun coolies was wounded by a shot from the village. The change of
+position had little effect, and Lieutenant Henderson's party which
+had skirmished along the hillside, effectually prevented the enemy
+from evacuating his strong position.
+
+At this time we saw a body of men on the ridge above Konoma, and a
+gun and rocket fire was opened on them, but speedily stopped as the
+regimental call of the 43rd sounding in the distance, followed by a
+close observation with our glasses, led us to the conclusion that it
+was the party with Captain Williamson and not the enemy who occupied
+the point at which we had directed our fire. Subsequently it was
+discovered that the stockade there had been captured and occupied
+by the party of the 43rd. After firing a few shots from our new
+position, and imagining that the force under Colonel Nuttall was in
+full possession of the hill we unlimbered, and, crossing the small
+valley before mentioned, we followed Mr. Damant's path up the hill,
+entering the village by the gate where he met his death. As we neared
+the place where we had last seen Colonel Nuttall's party, ominous
+sights met our eyes, dead bodies here and there and men badly wounded,
+while sepoys left in charge of the latter told us that the Nagas were
+still holding out in the upper forts. After advancing a few paces
+further we had to pick our way over ground studded with pangees, [30]
+and covered with thorns and bamboo and cane entanglements, exposed
+to the fire of the enemy, and passing the bodies of several Nagas
+we ascended a kind of staircase, and after again passing under the
+Naga fire climbed up a perpendicular stone wall and found ourselves
+in a small tower, which, with the adjoining work, was held by a small
+party of the 44th. I asked Colonel Nuttall where all his men were, and
+he pointed to the handful around him and said, "These are all." The
+situation was indeed a desperate one, and I felt that without some
+immediate action our power in the Naga Hills for the moment trembled
+in the balance. The needed action was taken as the guns had now arrived
+under a heavy fire, and they opened on the upper forts at a distance of
+eighty to one hundred yards, Lieutenant Mansel and his three European
+bombardiers pointing them, fully exposed to the fire of the enemy. I
+strongly urged on the General the necessity of making an attempt to
+dislodge him before nightfall, and he was about to lead out a party
+to the attack when it was deemed more prudent to try the guns from
+another point first. After a series of rounds with such heavy charges
+that the guns were upset at every shot, the order for the assault was
+given, and we all rushed out in two parties, led by nine officers,
+viz., General Nation, Colonel Nuttall, Major Cock, Major Walker,
+Lieutenant Ridgeway, Lieutenant Raban, Lieutenant Boileau, Lieutenant
+Forbes, and myself, with all the men we could collect. The party I was
+with, which included the general, Colonel Nuttall, and Major Cock,
+attempted to scale the front face of the fort, the other the left,
+i.e., on our right. The right column of attack led by Ridgeway and
+Forbes advanced splendidly; I seem to hear to this day Ridgeway's
+shout of "Chulleao," i.e., "Come along," to his men as he dashed to
+the front, and I saw him mounting the parapet.
+
+The Nagas met us with a heavy fire and showers of spears and
+stones. One of the spears struck Forbes, and Ridgeway was badly wounded
+in the left shoulder by a shot fired at ten paces, and Nir Beer Sai,
+a gallant subadar, shot dead. My faithful orderly, Narain Singh, was
+also killed. Unfortunately we had no force to support the assaulting
+parties and the men began to retire. While this was doing on the
+right, our column, the left, was scaling an almost perpendicular wall
+in front but unsuccessfully, as those of us not killed were pushed
+back by showers of falling stones and earth, and as we alighted at
+a lower level the remnants of the right column who were retiring
+met us. I tried to rally them, but I was a stranger to them and it
+was no use. Lieutenant Raban was equally unsuccessful, the men had
+acted gallantly, but our party was too small, and as I had before
+predicted the fire was concentrated on the European officers. Major
+Cock walked back leisurely to get under cover, and just before he
+reached it turned round to take a parting shot. I saw him thus far,
+and immediately after heard that he had been shot. Seeing that our
+only chance of safety lay in a retreat, I shouted to Mansel to open
+an artillery fire over our heads which he did, this saved us. In
+another minute, the general, Colonel Nuttall, myself and five sepoys
+were the only men left. I suggested to the former that we had better
+go too and retire, which we did over the embers of a burning house.
+
+As I retired with the General we found Major Cock mortally wounded,
+laid under cover in a sheltered spot; a little farther on under a heavy
+fire we met Lieutenant Boileau bringing out a stretcher for him. As
+Cock was being carried in, a bearer was shot dead, and Dr. Campbell
+took his place and brought him into hospital.
+
+It was a strange situation, as in our retreat we were alternately
+exposed to a fire, and quite sheltered. Luckily the place selected
+for a hospital was safe, and there a sad sight met my eyes. In the
+short period that elapsed between the commencement of the assault
+and my return, the hospital had been filled. Young Forbes was on his
+back, pale as a sheet, but cheerful. Ridgeway flushed with the glow
+of battle on him. "Certamis gaudia," I said, "I hope you are not
+much hurt." "Only my shoulder smashed," he said. Colonel Nuttall
+was slightly wounded, making four out of nine Europeans. Besides
+these were men of the 44th of all ranks, some almost insensible,
+others in great pain, some composed, others despondent. Outside lay a
+heap of dead. Twenty-five per cent. of the native ranks had fallen,
+killed or wounded. Some of my gun coolies were among the latter,
+besides one or two killed.
+
+I remember a wounded Kuki who was supporting himself by leaning
+against a great vat of Naga beer prepared to refresh the defenders of
+the fortress, and by him lay a dead Naga. The Kuki had a dao (sword)
+in his hand, and every now and then he fortified himself with a deep
+draught of the grateful fluid, and thus strengthened made a savage
+cut at the body of his foe.
+
+We had captured all but the highest forts, and a renewed attack with
+our small numbers was out of the question, as night was closing in,
+and we were very anxious as to the safety of our detached parties
+under Evans, Macgregor, and Henderson. [31]
+
+It was determined to remain where we were for the night, and Lieutenant
+Raban represented to the General the necessity of fortifying our
+position. This duty he and Mansel and I undertook, I bringing my Kuki
+coolies to the work, which we accomplished by 7 P.M.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+    Konoma evacuated--Journey to Suchema for provisions and ammunition,
+    and return--We march to Suchema with General--Visit Manipur--Very
+    ill--Meet Sir Steuart Bayley in Cachar--His visit to Manipur--Grand
+    reception--Star of India--Chussad attack on Chingsow--March to
+    Kohima and back--Reflections on Maharajah's services--Naga Hills
+    campaign overshadowed by Afghan War.
+
+
+General Nation had intended to capture Konoma and return to Suchema
+at once, but the stout resistance offered by the Nagas upset all
+calculations, and we were thus stranded without warm clothing or
+provisions on a bleak spot, 5000 or 6000 feet above the sea. I sent
+off some of my Naga emissaries, and induced the neutral men of Mozuma
+to go to Suchema and bring the bedding of the wounded men and some food
+which was done. With difficulty we got enough water to drink, but there
+was none for washing, and when at last we sat down on the ground to
+eat our frugal meal, the doctors had to eat with hands covered with
+blood, indeed, none of our hands were very presentable. At last, to
+our great relief, our detached parties returned one by one. Lieutenant
+(now Colonel) C. R. Macgregor, D.S.O., a most gallant and capable
+officer, had been out all day with only fifteen men, and inflicted
+some injury on the Nagas. He was Quartermaster-General of the force,
+and did good service throughout. The accession of numbers was a great
+relief, as we now had the means of renewing the attack next day, but
+ammunition and supplies were required, and Williamson and I volunteered
+to go to Suchema for them next day. The night was very cold, but we
+managed to sleep all huddled up together, the dead lying all round us.
+
+Early next morning, Williamson and I started with all our coolies and
+an escort of fifty men. We saw no signs of the enemy, but came across
+several men of the 43rd who had strayed away from their detachments
+in the dark and hidden in the jungles. At Suchema we found all right,
+but before we got there, we saw our flag flying over Konoma, showing,
+as I had expected, that it had been evacuated during the night. This
+event immediately made our neutral friends of Mozuma, our allies, and
+they gave us hearty assistance, and we took back an ample supply of
+provisions. The Mozuma people told us that the Konoma men had never
+contemplated the possibility of being driven out, and that they had
+stored up 2000 maunds of rice which had fallen into our hands.
+
+The enemy had retired into some fortified stockades called Chukka on
+the main range to their rear, a most difficult position to attack. I
+offered the General to carry the guns into position for him if he
+cared to assault them, but our loss, especially in officers, had been
+so great that he declined, and probably he was right, as the risk
+was very great if the enemy stood his ground, so the General decided
+to await reinforcements. All the same it was to be regretted that we
+were unable to deliver two or three blows in rapid succession.
+
+We left a party at Konoma and marched to Suchema with the wounded,
+Ridgeway, with great courage, marching all the way on foot, rather
+than endure the shaking of an improvised litter. On the 27th, I
+joined a force, with which we attacked and destroyed the unfriendly
+portion of Jotsuma, a large and powerful village, and on the 29th,
+as there was nothing else to do, made a rapid journey to Manipur with
+Lieutenant Raban, that he might survey the road as I wanted the trace
+for a cart road cut. We returned on December 4th.
+
+On December 6th, Williamson and I started for Golaghat, to meet
+Sir Steuart Bayley. At Samagudting I had a perfect ovation, all
+the village turning out to see me, and greeting me warmly as an old
+acquaintance. Alas! many were suffering from a disease we called Naga
+sores, and several had died. The once lovely place looked desolate and
+miserable, almost all the fine trees had been ruthlessly cut down by
+one of my successors, in a panic, lest they should afford cover for
+hostile Nagas. The place looked so sad that I could not bear to stay
+there as I had intended, and left again almost directly. We reached
+Golaghat on December 9th, and stayed with the Chief Commissioner and
+started again on the 12th, and rode fifty-five miles into Dimapur, but
+I was not at all well, indeed had been much the reverse for several
+days, bad food and hard work having upset me. We reached Suchema on
+the 14th.
+
+Overtures for submission were made by some of the hostile villages,
+but I said that an unconditional surrender of all fire-arms must
+precede any negotiations. Meanwhile, I grew daily worse, and the
+doctors told me that I must go to Manipur for change and quiet,
+which, as there was nothing to be done just then, I did, leaving
+Captain Williamson in charge of the Political Department.
+
+I reached Manipur on December 22nd, and a day or two's rest did me so
+much good that I left again on the 27th, and rode to Mythephum, sixty
+miles, but was taken ill on the road, and suffered most dreadful pain
+for the last twenty miles, arriving completely prostrated. The next
+day, being worse, I sent a message to Manipur, asking for the native
+doctor and a litter to be sent to meet me, while I got back as far as
+Mayang Khang on my pony, though hardly able to sit upright. I halted
+here for the night, but had no sleep, and in the morning started in a
+rough litter, but the shaking increased the pain, so that I again tried
+riding till I reached Kong-nang-pokhee, twenty miles from Manipur,
+where, to my intense relief, I found my doolai and our native doctor,
+Lachman Parshad. I reached Manipur at 11 P.M.
+
+Next day, December 30th, I was no better, and as the doctor was very
+anxious, not understanding my case, which was acute inflammation,
+my wife wrote to Dr. O'Brien of the 44th, asking him to come and
+see me. I was laid up till January 17th, and only narrowly escaped
+with life, my suffering being aggravated by a deficiency of medicine
+in our hospital, and a week's delay in getting it from Cachar. One
+day I got out of bed to see Thangal Major on very important business
+connected with Konoma, of which some of the inhabitants had tried to
+open an intrigue with Manipur. Dr. O'Brien arrived about the 13th,
+and left on the 18th, and I was preparing to follow in a few days,
+when complications on the Lushai frontier detained me, and then as the
+Chief Commissioner was about to come up en route to the Naga Hills,
+to present the Maharajah with the order of the Star of India in
+recognition of his services, I waited till I could march up with him.
+
+On January 30th, I heard that the Baladhun tea factory in Cachar
+had been attacked, and a European and several coolies killed by
+the Merema clan of Konoma. Knowing that Cachar was badly off for
+troops, I asked the Durbar to send two hundred men to the frontier,
+close to the tea factory, to aid the Cachar authorities, and this
+was done. On February 6th, I started for Cachar to meet the Chief
+Commissioner, reaching that place on the 7th, and marched back with
+him, arriving at Manipur on February 20th, where he was received with
+every demonstration of respect, the Maharajah turning out with all
+his court to meet him at the usual place, and escorting him to the
+spot where the road turned off to the Residency.
+
+The Chief Commissioner's visit gave the greatest satisfaction to
+every one in Manipur. He stayed five days, during which he had several
+interviews with the Maharajah, and held a grand Durbar, at which he
+invested him with the star and badge of a K.C.S.I. He also attended a
+review held by the Rajah, besides seeing all the sights of the place,
+including a game of polo by picked players. In fact the visit was a
+thorough success, and the Manipuris often spoke of it with pleasure
+years afterwards.
+
+Just before we started for the Naga Hills, I received the news of an
+attack by the Chussad Kukis on the Tankhool village of Chingsow, to
+the north-east of Manipur, forty-five people were said to have been
+killed or carried off; and the excitement was all the greater from
+the belief entertained that the attack had been instigated by the
+Burmese. I determined, after consultation with Sir Steuart Bayley,
+to proceed to the spot myself, and investigate the whole affair;
+and it was, therefore, decided that, after escorting him to Kohima,
+I should return to Manipur and take up the case. We marched to Kohima,
+which we reached on March 1st, and on the 2nd, I returned to Mao,
+en route to Manipur, where I arrived on March 5th.
+
+Before leaving the subject of the Naga Hills, I ought to say, that,
+it is difficult to over-estimate our obligation to the Maharajah,
+for his loyal conduct during the insurrection and subsequent
+troubles. According to his own belief, we had deprived him of
+territory belonging to him, and which he had been allowed to claim as
+his own. The Nagas asked him to help them, and promised to become his
+feudatories, if only he would not act against them. The temptation must
+have been strong, to at least serve us as we deserved, by leaving us
+in the lurch to get out of the mess, as best as we could. Instead of
+this, Chandra Kirtee Singh loyally and cheerfully placed his resources
+at our disposal, and certainly by enabling me to march to its relief,
+prevented the fall of Kohima, and the disastrous results which would
+have inevitably followed. It is grievous to think that his son, the
+then Jubraj Soor Chandra Singh, who served us so well, was allowed to
+die in exile, and that Thangal Major died on the scaffold: while many
+others who accompanied the expedition, were transported as criminals,
+across the dreaded "black water" to the Andamans.
+
+It was the misfortune of those engaged in the Naga Hills expedition,
+that they were overshadowed, and their gallant deeds almost ignored, by
+the Afghan war then in progress. Some of the English papers imagined
+that the operations in the Naga Hills were included in it, and the
+Government of India, which has only eyes for the North-West Frontier,
+showed little desire to recognise the hard work, and good service
+rendered on its eastern border, amidst difficulties far greater than
+those which beset our troops in Afghanistan. The force engaged, hoped
+that the capture of Konoma, which was achieved after such hard fighting
+and at so great a loss, would have been at least recognised by some
+special decoration, but this hope was disappointed, apparently for
+no other reason, than that the troops engaged, fought in the east,
+and not in the west of India. Kaye, the historian, once said that,
+"the countries to the east of the Bay of Bengal, were the grave
+of fame." Well did the Naga Hills campaign, prove the truth of his
+words. A bronze star was the reward of a bloodless march from Kabul
+to Kandahar, but not even a clasp could be spared to commemorate
+the capture of Konoma, and those who never saw a shot fired, shared
+the medal awarded equally with those who fought and bled in that
+bloody fight.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+    Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad outrage--Interesting
+    country--Rhododendrons--Splendid forest--Chingsow and the
+    murder--Chattik--March back across the hills.
+
+
+I had not fully recovered my strength after my illness, and besides
+there was much to do, so I did not start for Chingsow till the 11th,
+when I marched to Lairen, twenty-five miles distant. Near a place
+called Susa Kameng, where the hills approach each other very closely,
+from either side of the valley, a rampart connects them. It was built
+in former days as a barrier against the Tankhools, when they were
+the scourge of the neighbourhood.
+
+After leaving Susa Kameng, the valley narrowed for some miles, and
+then we crossed a ridge about 1000 feet above it, and finally descended
+into a charming little upland valley, which, but for the Kukis, those
+terrible enemies of trees and animal life, would be the cherished home
+of wild elephants. After crossing this, we again made a slight descent,
+and found ourselves close to the camp on a lovely stream. There I
+found Bularam Singh, who was to be minister in attendance on me during
+my march, that part of the country being under his jurisdiction. The
+next day we went on to Noong-suong-kong over a most lovely country,
+often 5000 feet above the sea, and with hill villages in the most
+romantic situation; and--remarkable sign of the peace produced by
+the rule of Manipur--we met large numbers of unarmed wayfarers. This
+day we also saw terrace cultivation, in which the Tankhools excel,
+and rhododendrons in full flower, a splendid sight. The next day,
+after another most interesting march, we halted in a pretty upland
+valley, 5100 feet above the sea; the valley was long, and a stream
+meandered through it, the banks being clothed with willows and wild
+pear trees, covered with blossoms. The hillsides were well-wooded,
+the trees being chiefly pines with rhododendrons here and there.
+
+On March 14th, we descended the Kongou-Chow-Ching, and in a village I
+saw for the first time shingle roofs. We passed the last fir tree at
+5800 feet, and reached the watershed at 7300 feet. At the top of the
+pass in a slightly sheltered position, was a solitary rhododendron. The
+cold was so great that, though walking, I was glad to put on a thick
+great-coat; the winds were exceedingly piercing. Some of the hills
+round were denuded of trees, and the hill people said that it was
+the severity of the winds that prevented their growth. The view from
+the highest point was splendid, on all sides a magnificent array of
+hills and valleys. Near to us were some of the most luxuriant forests I
+have ever seen, the trees of large size, and many of them with gnarled
+trunks, recalling the giants of an English park. Under some of these
+trees was a greensward where it would have been delightful to encamp,
+had time allowed, but the difficulty of obtaining water limits one's
+halting place in the hills. Everywhere on the western face of the hills
+pines seemed to stop at 5800 feet; but on the east they rose to 9400!
+
+Four villages, in the Tankhool country, apparently monopolised the bulk
+of the cloth manufactures, and different tribal patterns were made to
+suit the purchaser. Some of these cloths are very handsome and strong,
+and calculated to wear for a long time. But the superior energy of the
+Manipuris in cloth weaving, has greatly injured the trade in the hill
+villages; in the same way that Manchester and Paisley have injured the
+weaving trade in most of India. The Manipuris supply a fair pattern
+of the different tribal cloths at a lower price, and thus manage to
+undersell those of native manufacture, but the quality is not nearly
+so good as in the original. The prices in the hills are decidedly
+high. Every village has its blacksmith, but some devote themselves
+more especially to ironwork.
+
+We reached Chingsow on March 15th, after a march of twelve miles
+that morning, chiefly made up of ascents and descents, some being so
+steep that it was with difficulty that we got along. Finally, after
+a direct ascent of 4980 feet, followed by a descent of 3600 feet,
+we reached our encamping ground below the village which towered
+above us. The next day I investigated the case, and found that, as
+reported, twenty males and twenty-five females had been murdered. I
+saw the fresh graves and dug up one as evidence, the bodies contained
+in it were those of a mother and child, and presented a frightful
+spectacle with half of the heads cut off, including the scalp, and
+both in an advanced state of decomposition. It appeared that a demand
+has been made by Tonghoo, the Chussad Chief, that the Chingsow Nagas
+should submit to him and pay tribute, but they, of course, refused
+as subjects of Manipur. They heard of nothing more till they were
+attacked on the morning of the fatal day. The people had just begun
+to stir, and some had lighted their fires, when suddenly they heard
+the fire of musketry at the entrance of the village. They ran out
+of their houses, and the Chussads fell upon them, and the massacre
+commenced. The assailants were about fifty in number, and the people
+in their terror were driven in all directions, and slaughtered,
+some being shot and others being cut down by daos.
+
+While this was going on, some of the men assembled with spears and
+advanced on the Chussads, who then retreated firing the village,
+and carrying off all the pigs, spears and iron hoes they could lay
+hands on. Five Nagas of Chattik came with the Chussads and were
+recognised. The village of Chingsow was most strongly situated, even
+more so than Konoma, indeed, the same might be said of many villages
+in that part of the country, and is entered by long winding paths
+cut through the rock, by which only one man at a time could pass,
+so that well defended it would be difficult to take. But the fact
+was that Manipur having put a stop to blood feuds among its subjects,
+had rather placed them at a disadvantage, as they were not quite as
+well prepared for an attack as formerly.
+
+After leaving Chingsow, we marched through a pretty country, part of
+our way lying along a high ridge with a precipice on one side, and a
+deep ravine on the other, and we finally halted in a stream far below
+our last camp. Every march was a succession of steep ascents and then
+equally steep descents into narrow valleys. It was most exasperating
+sometimes to see how needlessly an ascent was made over a high ridge,
+when a path of no greater length could have been made round it.
+
+On the 17th, I encamped beside a river where I was visited by many
+Tankhools, including children, who crowded round me fearlessly. The
+people were a fine race, but almost inconceivably dirty, some of them
+seemed grimed with the dirt of years. There were plenty of fine pieces
+of terrace cultivation. It was very curious to find that among the
+Tankhools there seemed to be a universal belief that they originally
+sprung from the "Mahawullee," or sacred grove in Manipur.
+
+On March 18th, we reached Chattik, a fine village on a ridge from
+which we had a splendid view, including the Chussad villages. As
+I had done all I had come for, and wished to see a new country,
+I determined to march back straight to Manipur across the hills. It
+was not the beaten track which lay by Kongal Tannah, and no one in
+my camp knew it, but I felt sure it could be found, and old Bularam
+Singh cheerfully agreed. We started on the 19th, and after passing
+a village that had been plundered by the Chussads, we halted after a
+sixteen-mile march, during which I was badly hurt by a bamboo which
+pierced my leg. On the march we passed some terrible-looking pits,
+12 feet deep, and about 3 or 3-1/2 feet wide with sharp stakes at the
+bottom. They are meant to catch enemies on the war path, or deer,
+and are placed in the centre of the roads and covered lightly. God
+help the poor man or animal who is impaled in these horrible pits
+and dies in agony, for no one else will.
+
+On the 20th, we halted at Pong, after an interesting but tiring march,
+during which we crossed the summit of a high range at 7100 feet,
+covered with forest, and small and very solid bamboos. The descent
+was through a noble pine forest with trees that must have been two
+hundred feet high. It rained heavily, and when we halted I should
+have had a miserable night of it but for the care of the Manipuris,
+who built me a comfortable hut, and went away smiling and cheerful
+to cook their food, though they looked half drowned. Never did I see
+men work better under difficulties. Owing to them I had as nice a
+resting-place as a man on the march could want, and an hour after I
+had an excellent dinner.
+
+We started early next morning, and made a gradual ascent till we
+reached Hoondoong, a Tankhool village 5200 feet above the sea. After
+that our road lay through a splendid fir forest, with here and there
+an avenue of oaks, but from time to time we came across large tracts
+of forest that had been laid low and burned. At Hoondoong I saw some
+curious graves, high mounds shaped like a large H.
+
+They were outside the village. There were also more and better-looking
+women and children than are to be seen in most Tankhool villages. The
+men of the Tankhool race are, in physique, quite equal to the Angamis.
+
+In the main street of Hoondoong, there were two rows of dead trees
+about twenty feet high, planted in front of the houses, and orchids
+were growing on them. The people seemed happy and contented under the
+rule of Manipur, and their houses were large and commodious structures.
+
+We reached Eethum Tannah in the valley of Manipur after a terrible
+descent, rendered all the more difficult by heavy rain, which made
+the narrow path so slippery as to be almost impassable. During the
+whole of my long march through a wild country covered with forest
+I had, with the exception of the Hoolook monkey (Hylohete) seen no
+wild animals, scarcely a bird!
+
+I reached Manipur on March 22nd, having greatly enjoyed my tour in
+the hills, and had hardly arrived when Thangal Major came to see me
+and talk about the Chussad business. Soon after I sent to Tonghoo,
+the Chussad chief, to demand his submission. He did not come himself,
+but sent his brother Yankapo. The Manipuris thought this a grand
+opportunity to secure hostages, and begged me to allow the arrest
+of him and his followers. I severely rebuked them for making such a
+treacherous proposal.
+
+I had several interviews with the young chief and his followers who
+spoke Manipuri fluently, and admitted that they were subjects of
+the Maharajah. This visit eventually led to a better understanding
+with the Chussads, and to the submission of Tonghoo himself, who
+subsequently became a peaceable subject. For the present, however,
+I had to exact reparation for the attack on Chingsow, and for some
+months the affair cost me much anxiety.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+    Saving a criminal from execution--Konoma men visit me--A terrible
+    earthquake--Destruction wrought in the capital--Illness of the
+    Maharajah--Question as to the succession--Arrival of the Queen's
+    warrant--Reception by Maharajah--The Burmese question.
+
+
+About this time I heard one morning that a man had been convicted
+in concert with a woman of committing a grave offence, and that the
+woman had, according to custom, been sentenced to be exposed in every
+bazaar in the country, in the way already described. The man had
+been sentenced to death, and ordered to Shoogoonoo for execution. As
+the offence was not one which our courts would punish with death, I
+sent a friendly remonstrance to the Maharajah, and requested that he
+might be produced before me, that I might satisfy myself that he was
+uninjured. The Maharajah at once consented, and in a few days the man
+was brought before me safe and sound, and after having been exposed as
+a criminal in several bazaars, he was sentenced with my approval to
+a fitting term of imprisonment. I also asked the minister in future,
+to let me know for certain when a sentence of death was passed, that I
+might advise them, without appearing to the outer world to interfere,
+in case they inadvertently condemned a man to capital punishment,
+for a crime which our laws would not approve of being visited so
+severely. Realising that my object was to save them from discredit,
+they at once consented, and I hinted that I would never sanction the
+penalty of death for cow-killing.
+
+As I have stated, it had been almost always the custom to refer death
+sentences to me. Often and often when I made a remonstrance to the
+ministers about any contemplated action of which I disapproved, I was
+told that I misapprehended the state of things, and that nothing of
+the kind was intended. Of course, I let them down easily, and appeared
+satisfied with their assurances. However, neither party was deceived,
+they accepted my strong hint in a friendly spirit, and knew well that
+I took their denial as a mere matter of form. The result was what I
+cared for, and it was generally achieved without friction.
+
+One of the most unpleasant parts of my duty was the perpetual necessity
+of saying "No" to the ministers. My great object was to be continually
+building up our prestige. Colonel McCulloch had said to me, "Never
+make any concession to the Manipuris without an equivalent," and it is
+inconceivable how many times in our daily intercourse I had to refuse
+little apparently insignificant, but really insidious requests. The
+struggle on behalf of native British subjects was long kept up, but
+in the end I gained my point, and their rights and privileges were
+fully recognised.
+
+Early in June, some men of the Merema clan of Konoma who were
+fugitives in a very wild part of the hills of Manipur bordering
+on the Naga Hills, came to me, making a piteous appeal for mercy,
+saying they would have nothing to do with the Naga Hills officials,
+but came to me as their old friend and master in the days when I was at
+Samagudting. As they came in trusting to my honour, I would not have
+them arrested, but sent them away, telling them that nothing but good
+and loyal conduct on their part could win my esteem, and that they
+must make their submission and deliver up Mr. Damant's murderers to
+the Political Officer in the Naga Hills, before I consented to deal
+with them. I also gave orders to the Manipuri troops on the frontier,
+to act with the utmost vigour against all Konoma men found within
+the territory of Manipur.
+
+Soon after some Lushais visited me, and we settled up a long-standing
+dispute between them and Manipur.
+
+The Konoma men continued to give much trouble, and to keep some check
+on them, I refused at last to allow any to enter Manipur, except by
+the Mao Tannah, and furnished with a pass from the Political Officer,
+Colonel Michell. I also arrested one of the supposed murderers,
+but the evidence against him was not considered quite satisfactory.
+
+On the morning of June 30th, at 4.45, when we were at Kang-joop-kool
+there was a violent earthquake, the oscillations continuing with great
+force from north to south, and apparently in a less degree from east to
+west for some minutes. Plaster was shaken from the walls, and crockery
+and bottles thrown down, and furniture upset. Locked doors were flung
+open and the whole house, built of wood and bamboo, shaken as by a
+giant hand. Two Naga girls sleeping in my children's room next to the
+one my wife and I occupied, sprang up and ran outside, my two boys,
+not realising what was up, seemed to think it a good joke. We all got
+up and hurried on our things to be ready for an emergency, but I soon
+saw that all present danger was over. At 8.50 A.M., there was another
+sharp shock, and again about 2 P.M., besides several slighter ones.
+
+In the valley, and especially at the capital, the shocks were of the
+utmost violence and the earthquake said to be the worst known with the
+exception of the terrible one of January 1869. Many houses built of
+wood and bamboo were levelled with the ground, the ruins at Langthabal
+greatly injured, and a peepul tree growing over a picturesque old
+temple torn off. The old Residency was greatly injured, part being
+thrown down, and the fireplace and chimney shaken into fragments,
+but still, strange to say, standing. Some houses in the Residency
+compound were rendered useless. The great brick bridge on the Cachar
+road was cracked and much damage done. The earth opened in several
+places. The new Residency, which was nearly finished, and was built
+in the old English half-timbered style, was intact.
+
+During the next few days several more shocks occurred, causing much
+alarm among the people, who predicted something still worse. The
+earthquake was followed by the severest outbreak of cholera that I had
+witnessed since a dreadful epidemic in Assam in 1860. There were many
+deaths in the palace, and public business was at a standstill. I was
+unable to lay any question before the Durbar, as half the officials
+were performing the funeral ceremonies of relations. The great bazaar
+was closed at sunset, and even then many of the sellers went home
+to find their children dead or dying. Everywhere on the banks of
+the rivers, and streams, people might be seen performing the funeral
+obsequies of relations and lamenting the dead. Amid this trouble, the
+attitude of all classes was such as to excite admiration, there were no
+cases of sick being deserted and every one appeared calm and collected.
+
+Later on, the cholera attacked my village of Kang-joop-kool, and ten
+per cent. of the population died.
+
+Early in the autumn, the Maharajah was taken ill with an abscess
+behind the ear, and great apprehensions were entertained for his
+life. The whole capital was for weeks in a state of alarm, fearing a
+struggle for the throne in case of his death. The four eldest sons,
+and also some members of the family of the late Rajah Nur Singh,
+had their followers armed so as to be ready to assert their several
+claims immediately the Maharajah died, the former were constantly in
+attendance on their father night and day. The Maharajah was himself
+very anxious about the conduct of his younger sons. As suffocation
+might any moment have terminated the invalid's life, I made all
+necessary plans, with a view to acting promptly, if required, and,
+in conjunction with Thangal Major, arranged so as to secure the
+guns and bring them over to the Residency the moment that he died. I
+also desired the Jubraj (heir apparent) to come over to me at once,
+in the event of the death of his father, that I might instantly
+proclaim him and give him my support. I had a most grateful message
+from the Maharajah in reply, as also from the Jubraj, who promised
+to abide entirely by my instructions. However, the abscess burst,
+and the Maharajah recovered, and though a shot imprudently fired
+one evening led to a panic when the bazaar was deserted, things soon
+settled down again.
+
+As soon as the Maharajah was again able to transact business, he
+begged me to write to the Government of India and request that the
+Jubraj should be acknowledged by them as his successor. I did so, at
+the same time strongly urging that the guarantee should be extended to
+the Jubraj's children, so as to preclude the possibility of a disputed
+succession on his death. The Jubraj earnestly supported this request,
+but the Maharajah preferred adhering to the old Manipuri custom,
+which really seemed made to encourage strife. If, for instance, a man
+had ten sons, they all succeeded one after the other, passing over
+the children of the elder ones, but when the last one died, then his
+children succeeded as children of the last Rajah, to the exclusion of
+all the elder brothers' children. All the same, if these could make
+good their claim by force of arms, they were cheerfully accepted by
+the people who were ready to take any scion of Royalty.
+
+The consequence had always been in former days that to prevent
+troublesome claims, a man, on ascending the throne, immediately made
+every effort to murder all possible competitors. It is obvious that
+such a cumbersome system was undesirable, and I held that having once
+interfered we ought to set things on a proper and sensible basis, and
+that there was no middle course between this and leaving the people to
+themselves. Thangal Major, who always greatly dreaded the violent and
+unscrupulous disposition of Kotwal Koireng (afterwards Senaputtee),
+agreed with me. The Maharajah, however, with a father's tenderness
+for his sons, would not advocate my proposal, but still, would have
+gladly accepted it. The Government of India judged differently,
+and only sanctioned my proposal so far as to allow me to say that
+they would guarantee the Jubraj's succession, and maintain him on
+his throne. This decision gave great satisfaction.
+
+This year was unpleasantly distinguished by a great deficiency of rain
+in the valley, and a corresponding superfluity, though at irregular
+intervals, in the hills. For a long time there were apprehensions
+of scarcity, while in the hills the rainfall was so heavy that the
+Laimetak bridge was washed away and the river rose six feet above its
+banks. On one side, a large portion of its pebbly bed was hollowed
+out, and much widened, and 80 feet width of solid boulders carried
+away. The Eerung rose about 40 feet, and portions of the hill road
+were cut away, but the want of steady rain was felt.
+
+By the end of September, the Maharajah was able to transact business,
+though, as he was not well enough to visit me, I visited him, that
+I might congratulate him on his recovery, and present him with Her
+Majesty's warrant, appointing him a Knight Commander of the Star of
+India. The papers bearing the Queen's signature were received with a
+salute of thirty-one guns, and the Maharajah rose to take it from my
+hand, and at once placed it on his forehead, making an obeisance. I
+then made a speech to all assembled, expressing my satisfaction at
+the Maharajah's recovery, and the gratification it gave me to be the
+means of conveying the warrant to him.
+
+Nothing of great importance now occurred, but I was constantly
+occupied by the troubled state of the eastern frontier of Manipur
+where Sumjok (Thoungdoot) continued to intrigue with the Chussad and
+Choomyang Kukis, who were a ceaseless trouble to the Tankhool Nagas,
+about Chattik. These intrigues were conducted with a view to gaining
+over the latter as subjects. The chief difficulty of Manipur was,
+that the boundary had never been properly defined, so neither party
+had a good case against the other. Manipur was in possession, but
+otherwise everything was unsatisfactory, our failure to settle the
+Kongal case having encouraged the Burmese authorities to resistance.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+    March to Mao and improvement of the road--Lieutenant
+    Raban--Constant troubles with Burmah--Visit to Mr. Elliott
+    at Kohima--A tiger hunt made easy--A perilous adventure--Rose
+    bushes--Brutal conduct of Prince Koireng--We leave Manipur for
+    England.
+
+
+In November, I marched to Mao on the Naga Hills frontier, and arranged
+for the improvement of some of the halting places on the way. I also
+asked Sir Steuart Bayley, the Chief Commissioner, to allow Lieutenant
+Raban, R.E., to visit Manipur, with a view to laying out the line
+of a cart road from the Manipur valley to Mao. This arrangement he
+sanctioned, and Lieutenant Raban arrived in Manipur on December 30th,
+1880. The line from Sengmai was bad throughout, and an exceedingly
+difficult one in many places. Thangal Major accompanied us, and
+I had induced the Maharajah to open out a narrow road, on being
+supplied with the necessary tools. We carefully examined the whole
+of the road in detail, and, after deciding on the line to adopt,
+cut the trace. It was a matter requiring great skill and patience,
+both of which Lieutenant Raban had. He was very ably seconded by the
+Manipuris, whose keen intelligence made them good auxiliaries. Often
+the line had to be cut along the face of a cliff, but fortunately the
+rock was soft, and the work was accomplished without accident. The
+way we turned the head of the Mao river, the descent to and ascent
+from which I had so often, so painfully accomplished, was a great
+success, and did not materially increase the distance, as we saved
+it by striking the main path at different points. [32]
+
+In the village of Mukhel near which we passed, we saw a pear tree
+three or four hundred years old, and greatly venerated by the
+villagers. In the same village I saw a Naga cut another man's hair
+with a dao (sword). The operation was performed most dexterously
+and neatly, by holding the dao under the hair, and then slightly
+tapping the latter with a small piece of wood. The result was that
+the hair-cutting was as neatly accomplished as it could have been
+by the best London hair-dresser. I asked a fine young Naga why all
+his tribe wore a single long tuft of hair at the back? He at once
+replied, "To make the girls admire me," and added that without it,
+he should be laughed at. This is the only explanation I ever had
+of the curious fact that most of the Naga tribes wear a long tuft
+behind, like Hindoos. By the third week in January we had laid out
+the line of road. Thangal Major approved of most of it, but said,
+regarding the piece between Sengmai and Kaithemahee, "I will cut it
+as I promised, but who will ever use it?" I differed from him, as
+nothing could exceed the tortuous and hilly nature of the old road,
+running as it did across one succession of spurs and deep ravines,
+one of the most heart-breaking paths I ever went along. Within a
+month of its completion the old path was entirely deserted.
+
+My health was beginning to break down entirely. I had been very ill
+during and immediately after the Naga Hills Expedition, and during
+the last march I was laid up one or two days. My wife had long been
+a sufferer, but she did not like to leave me, and I did not like
+to leave Manipur while the frontier was disturbed and the Kongal
+case unsettled. However, now I felt that we both must have change,
+and our children also were of an age to go home.
+
+On my return from looking after the road, fresh complications awaited
+me. News came from Chattik of the Sumjok (Thoungdoot) authorities
+having again caused dissension and joined with another village in
+firing on a Manipuri piquet. This had led to reprisals on the part
+of the Manipuris, who attacked and drove out the enemy. All this was
+done without our relations with Sumjok being anything but strained,
+the act of hostility being unauthorised. The ill-defined nature of
+the frontier was such, that neither party could be said to be in the
+right or wrong. The Kuki, Chussad, and other frontier villages took
+advantage of the state of things to plunder the Tankhools, and the
+latter in their turn appealed to Manipur.
+
+I felt that, until something was done to set things on a right
+footing, I could not leave. Sir Steuart Bayley was about this time
+appointed to Hyderabad, which added to my difficulties, as he was
+intimately acquainted with the situation, and of course a change in
+the administration necessarily means delay. The Burmese authorities,
+knowing what I now do, were always, as I then believed, favourably
+inclined to us; the ill-feeling was entirely on the part of Sumjok,
+whose Tsawbwa had influence at Mandalay, and was able to prevent
+justice being done in the case in which he was so discreditably
+concerned. He also took advantage of this influence to carry on the
+guerilla warfare he did through the Chussads, who disliked Manipur,
+on account of some treacherous behaviour on her part in former years.
+
+As the spring advanced, of course the danger of hostilities became
+less. C�sar said, "Omnia bella hieme requiescunt." The reverse holds
+good in India, and on the eastern frontier the fiercest tribes keep
+quiet in the rainy season. [33]
+
+In March, I heard that Mr. (now Sir Charles) Elliott, the new Chief
+Commissioner, was about to visit Kohima, where he wished to meet
+me, and I set off on my way there, arriving on the 19th, being
+well received all along the road by the people of the different
+villages. I had a long talk with the Chief Commissioner about the
+affairs of Manipur, and the necessity for a survey and delimitation of
+the boundary between it and Burmah during the ensuing cold weather,
+and then returned. The new road had been opened out to such a width,
+except here and there--I was able to ride the whole distance.
+
+The weather was lovely, and the rhododendrons near Mao, and the wild
+pears, azaleas, and many other flowering trees along my route, made
+the long journey a most pleasant one. Let me say here, while on the
+subject of the road, that, notwithstanding all the criticisms passed
+on it and predictions of its uselessness, it proved of immense,
+nay, incalculable value during the Burmese War of 1885-86, and the
+sad troubles of 1891. It was throughout of an easy gradient, never
+exceeding one in twenty, and, had a bullock train been established,
+might have been used from an early date for conveying produce from
+Manipur to the stations of Kohima.
+
+This was my last visit to Kohima, a place fraught with so deep an
+interest to me, and so many pleasant and painful associations. I shall
+always regret that the site chosen by myself and Major Williamson
+was not adopted for the new cantonment, which, with the larger
+space available, would have admitted of a greater development than
+is possible under present circumstances. Still the place will always
+possess an undying interest for me, filled as it is with the memory
+of events bearing on my work from the early triumphs of old Ghumbeer
+Singh, and my predecessor, Lieut. Gordon, to the day when I marched in
+at the head of the relieving party, and heard the fair-haired English
+child told by her mother that at last she could have water to drink!
+
+On my return to Manipur, I intended to have started for England,
+and our passages were taken by a steamer leaving in April. But the
+unsettled state of the Burmese frontier forced me to stay till the
+rains had set in in the hills. During this spring we had a visitor,
+Mr. Hume, C.B., the well-known ornithologist, who spent three months
+in studying the birds of Manipur, with the result, I believe, that
+very few new species were found.
+
+In April, we had a little excitement to vary the monotony of life,
+though to me my work was of such never-ending interest, that I needed
+nothing of the kind. On April 13th, the Maharajah sent to tell me
+that a tiger had been surrounded, and asked me to go out and help
+to shoot it. The place was about fourteen miles from the capital,
+and we started early and rode off to a spot a few miles from Thobal.
+
+I took my sister and the two boys with me, my wife staying with
+the baby. The tiger had, according to Manipuri custom, been first
+enclosed by a long net, about eight feet high, and outside this a
+bamboo palisading had been erected, on which the platforms were built
+for the spectators. The space enclosed was eighty to a hundred yards
+in diameter, and contained grass and scrub jungle, and a log of wood
+tied to strong ropes was arranged, so that it might be dragged up and
+down to drive the tiger out of the covert. As soon as we were all in
+our places this rope was vigorously pulled, with the result that a
+tigress, followed by two cubs, sprang out with a loud roar. The Jubraj
+was present, and took command of the proceedings, courteously asking
+me from time to time what I wished done. After the first charge, the
+tiger was not very lively, and this being the case, several Manipuris,
+contrary to orders, jumped down into the arena with long and heavy
+spears in the right hand, and a small forked stick in the left. With
+the latter they held up a portion of the net, which had been allowed
+to fall on the ground to shield their faces, if necessary, and with
+the right hand poised the spear, shouting to irritate the tiger,
+whom others in the stockade tried to drive out by throwing stones.
+
+Roused by this, the infuriated brute charged in earnest at one of the
+men on foot, the latter awaited her with the utmost coolness, and, as
+she approached, struck her with the spear; the tiger, however, made
+good her charge, but the net stopped her, and she rolled over, and
+when released, she retreated. This was repeated, both by the tigress
+and the cubs, and after a shot or two, the men on foot attacked them
+with spears and finished them off.
+
+The whole scene was a very exciting one and a very fine display of
+courage and coolness on the part of the Manipuris.
+
+We did not reach home till 10 P.M., but the weather was splendid,
+not unbearably hot as it would have been in India so late in the
+season. The day was a memorable one to the boys, and I well remember
+the astonishment they caused when, stopping at Shillong on their way
+home, some one jokingly said, "And how many tigers have you shot?" The
+boys gravely replied "Three."
+
+The day was very nearly proving the last to some of us. The two
+boys were being carried in a litter, and my sister and I riding on
+ponies. On leaving the village where we had halted, we were riding
+down a narrow path with only room for one to pass at a time, when,
+suddenly, I heard a shout behind me and saw an elephant following
+me at a great pace, the mahout (driver) vainly endeavoured to stop
+him, he had been frightened by the tiger's dead body and was quite
+unmanageable. I called to my sister, who was in front, to ride at
+full speed, and I followed as quickly as her pony would allow. It
+was a race for life, as, had the elephant gained on us, I, at least,
+must have been crushed. Luckily, the mahout recovered his control,
+and managed to slacken the pace.
+
+On our way home, we passed bushes of wild roses twenty feet in diameter
+and quite impenetrable.
+
+Finally, the tiger was taken to the Maharajah, who had not been well
+enough to come, and, next morning, was brought to us and skinned.
+
+I have already alluded to the turbulent character of Kotwal Koireng,
+the Maharajah's fourth son, and now, again, I was to have fresh
+evidence of it. Early in May, I heard of his having three men so
+severely beaten that one had died, and two were dangerously ill. On
+investigation, I found that the men had been tied up and beaten on
+the back, it was said, for two hours and slapped on the face at the
+same time. I questioned the ministers, and practically there was no
+defence, and, as I heard that the Maharajah was enquiring into the
+matter, I said no more, beyond a warning that a case of murder must
+not be passed over.
+
+The Maharajah handed over the case to the Cherap Court [34] for trial,
+and, as might be expected, they acquitted Kotwal of the charge of
+causing death and found him guilty of injuring the other two. The
+Maharajah sentenced him to banishment for a year to the island of
+Thanga, in the Logtak Lake, and temporary degradation of caste. As
+a sentence of two years' imprisonment had been passed some years
+previously in our own territory, for death caused under similar
+circumstances, the sentence was not so lenient as might have been
+expected. I reported the matter to the Government of India, expressing
+my approval of the sentence, under the circumstances, and my verdict
+was ratified. I intimated to the Durbar that, should such a thing
+occur again, I should insist on his permanent banishment from Manipur.
+
+This I was prepared to carry out myself if necessary. I should
+have liked on this occasion to have procured his banishment, but,
+in dealing with Native States that in these matters are practically
+independent, it is not always well to press matters too far. In old
+days, under our early political agents, such an offence would have
+passed unnoticed. It was a point gained to have the case investigated
+and adjudicated on by the Maharajah, and anything approaching to an
+adequate sentence inflicted. Since the troubles in Manipur, I have
+seen it stated that the sentence was a nominal one; that it certainly
+was not, the prince was banished to Thanga, and if he surreptitiously
+appeared at the capital, he did not appear in public, and when I left
+Manipur on long leave, early in 1882, was still in banishment.
+
+On May 31st, we all left Manipur on our way to England, and my children
+bade adieu to a most happy home. It was a sad parting for most of us,
+and though my wife's health and mine urgently required change, we left
+the valley with regret, and felt deep sorrow as we took our last look
+of it from the adjacent range of hills. We reached Cachar on June 8th,
+having halted as much as possible on high ground. The rivers were in
+flood, and sometimes there was a little difficulty in crossing. We left
+for Shillong on June 9th, and arrived there on the 15th, leaving again
+on the 21st for Bombay, from which, on July 5th, we sailed for England.
+
+While at Shillong we were the guests of the Chief Commissioner,
+so that I had an ample opportunity of talking over affairs with him,
+and it was finally settled that I was to take Shillong on my way back,
+and see Mr. Elliott before leaving, to settle the knotty question of
+the boundary between Manipur and Burmah on the spot, in accordance
+with orders lately received from the Government of India.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+    Return to Manipur--Revolution in my absence--Arrangements for
+    boundary--Survey and settlement--Start for Kongal--Burmah will not
+    act--We settle boundary--Report to Government--Return to England.
+
+
+I was really not fit to undertake any work in India till my health
+was re-established, but could not bear to leave the interests of
+Manipur in other hands until the boundary was settled. I felt that
+I alone had the threads of the whole affair in my hands, and that I
+could not honourably leave my post till I had seen Manipur out of the
+difficulty. Thus it came that I left England again on September 7th,
+and my devoted wife, far less fit than I was for the trials of the
+long journey, accompanied me, as she would not leave me alone.
+
+We reached Shillong on October 18th, 1881, and, after arranging
+all matters connected with the boundary settlement with the Chief
+Commissioner, started for Cachar, and reached that place on October
+25th, leaving again for Manipur next day, and marching to Jeree Gh�t,
+where we were met by Thangal Major. We made the usual marches, and
+reached Manipur on November 4th, the Jubraj coming out with a large
+retinue to meet me at Phoiching, eight miles from the capital.
+
+While I was away in the month of June, an attempt at a revolution
+had occurred, the standard of revolt having been raised by a man
+named Eerengha, an unknown individual, but claiming to be of Royal
+lineage; such revolutions were of common occurrence in former days. In
+Colonel McCulloch's time there were eighteen. In this case there was no
+result, except that Eerengha and seventeen followers were captured and
+executed. The treatment was undoubtedly severe, but not necessarily
+too much so, as too great leniency might have led to a repetition,
+and much consequent suffering and bloodshed.
+
+I had an interview with the Maharajah, who was ill when I arrived,
+as soon as he was well enough; and set to work to make preparations
+for our march to the Burmese frontier. I intimated my desire to the
+Maharajah that Bularam Singh, and not Thangal Major, should accompany
+me, as I wished the last to stay at the capital, and also not to let
+him appear to be absolutely indispensable.
+
+I had been appointed Commissioner for settling the boundary with
+plenipotentiary powers, and Mr. R. Phayre, C.S., who was in the
+Burmese commission, and a good Burmese scholar, was appointed as my
+assistant. There was also a survey party under my old friend Colonel
+Badgley, and Mr. Ogle, while Lieutenant (now Major, D.S.O.) Dun, [35]
+came on behalf of the Intelligence Department. Mr. Oldham represented
+the Geological Survey. Dr. Watt was naturalist and medical officer,
+while Captain Angelo, with two hundred men of the 12th Khelat-i-Ghilzie
+Regiment, commanded my escort. Mr. Phayre arrived first, and I sent him
+off to Tamu to try and smooth over matters with the Burmese authorities
+there. Then my old friend Dun came, soon followed by Dr. Watt, then the
+survey party arrived, and Captain Angelo with my escort, and last of
+all Mr. Oldham. Never had Manipur seen so many European officers. Some
+time was required for necessary triangulations before we could start.
+
+On November 30th, just as the sun was rising, Thangal Major came to
+see me, and told me that the Maharajah was very ill and suffering
+great pain. While talking, two guns were fired from the palace, when
+the old man turned pale, evidently thinking that the Maharajah was
+dead. A few minutes after a messenger came to inform us that the guns
+merely announced a domestic event, but Thangal Major was nervous and
+soon took leave, running away to the palace at a pace that did credit
+to his sixty-four years.
+
+On December 1st, Mr. Phayre returned from Tamu, having had a friendly
+but unsatisfactory interview with the Phoongyee. The Pagan Woon had
+been expected but did not arrive, and the Phoongyee had no authority
+to act.
+
+Before starting, the Maharajah visited me in state, and I introduced
+all the officers of the party to him. He looked pale and haggard after
+his illness, but seemed in good spirits. At last, on December 16th,
+we made a move and marched to Thobal-Yaira-pok, and on the following
+day to Ingorok, at the foot of the hills. My wife accompanied us, as
+I was exceedingly anxious to show the Burmese my peaceful intentions,
+and felt sure that the presence of a lady would be a better proof of
+my bona fides than any other I could offer. I heard before leaving
+the frontier, that had it not been for this, a rupture would have
+been certain while our relations were in a state of great tension,
+but the fact of my wife being there, convinced the authorities in
+the Kubo valley, that I had no idea of hostile action.
+
+I have already described the route to Kongal, and my escort were much
+tried by the severity of the marches over such a rough country. The men
+had only lately returned from Afghanistan, and were in fine condition,
+but they said that the country between Kandahar and Kabul, was nothing
+to that between Ingorok and Kongal Tannah. Every day many men were
+footsore, and reached camp, hours after me and my Manipuris. There
+can be no doubt that for some reason or other the Eastern hills and
+jungles are far more trying than those of the North-West frontier.
+
+However, at last we arrived safely at Kongal, and though the Burmese
+and Sumjok officials, to whom I had written polite letters asking
+them to meet me, did not turn up, the survey work went on merrily.
+
+On the 18th, Colonel Badgley, who had come by an independent route
+through the hills, joined my camp, and after a conference we came to
+the conclusion that at any rate I was right in claiming the country
+occupied by the Chussads and Choomyangs, as Manipuri territory. This
+was very satisfactory, as the day before I had been much annoyed by the
+Sumjok authorities having prevented some of the former fears coming
+to pay their respects to me. The attitude of the Sumjok people was
+passively hostile, they refused to join in making out the boundary,
+and threw every obstacle in the way of my doing so, but they were
+evidently not inclined to be the first to shed blood.
+
+On December 19th, I sent out two unarmed parties to clear some
+ground for survey marks, but one of them was stopped by an armed
+party of Sumjok men. On hearing this the next day I ordered the
+Manipuri subadar in charge, to halt where he was, and I wrote to
+the Pagan Woon to complain, and to ask him to order the Tsawbwa to
+interfere. On the 21st, I heard that another party had been stopped,
+and I asked with regard to them as I had done with the first. That
+afternoon I received a civil letter from the Pagan Woon brought by
+a Bo (captain), saying that he had orders to conduct negotiations
+at Tamu, and was not authorised to come to Kongal Tannah. I wrote a
+conciliatory reply urging him to visit us.
+
+On the 22nd of December, I heard that my two parties had been
+forcibly driven out by large bodies of armed men. I therefore called
+in some Manipuri detachments lest there should be a collision, as
+the atmosphere was getting very warlike, and only required a spark
+to produce a conflagration. All the population of the Kubo valley
+were said to be arming. The Burmese we talked to frankly admitted
+if there was a rupture the fault would lie with Mandalay, for not
+sending a proper representative to meet me, in accordance with the
+request of the Government of India, conveyed months before.
+
+Certainly one false move on our part would have provoked a
+rupture. However, everything comes to him who waits. We made every
+effort to keep the peace, and while the authorities were opposing
+us we kept up a friendly intercourse with all the individual Burmese
+and Shans near us, and I carried on negotiation with the Kukis. The
+Chussads were inclined to be friendly, but the Choomyangs were still
+under the influence of Sumjok. Fortunately Colonel Badgley found that
+he could dispense with the two points from whence our men had been
+driven, and we discovered a little stream that formed an admirable
+boundary line entirely in accordance with the terms laid down in
+Pemberton's definition of the boundary.
+
+Further north, I knew the country well myself, and we had now no
+difficulty in laying down a definite boundary line about which there
+could be no doubt. This was done, and pillars were erected, and the
+line marked on the map. Manipur might, according to Pemberton's
+statement, have claimed a good deal of territory occupied by
+Burmese subjects, but this I refused to allow, as it would have been
+interfering with the "status quo," which I desired to preserve. I
+called all the Sumjok people I could to witness what I had done,
+and they all agreed that what I said was fair, and that the fault,
+if any, lay with the Burmese authorities, for not taking part in
+the arrangement. This was willing testimony, as none of the people
+need have come near me. Even Tamoo, the chief of Old Sumjok, or Taap,
+as the Manipuris call it, visited me, and expressed his satisfaction
+with what had been done. On Christmas Day, 1881, my wife and I had a
+party of seven at our table, an unprecedented sight, and probably the
+last time that nine Europeans will ever assemble at Kongal Tannah. My
+friend Dun, who had been badly wounded by a pangee (bamboo stake)
+had to be carried in.
+
+Before leaving Kongal, I went round all the pillars that had been
+erected, and saw that they were intact. Mr. Ogle's party went off to
+the north, escorted through the village of Choomyang by Lieutenant
+Dun. These people being under the influence of Sumjok, it was a
+very delicate business getting through their village without a
+rupture. This affair Dun managed with great tact. We left Kongal
+on our homeward journey on the 6th of January, but previous to
+starting I brought my long-standing negotiations with the Chussads
+to a successful conclusion. They agreed to negotiate with me but not
+with the Manipuris, and to abide by my decision entirely.
+
+I sent a message to the Choomyangs and other Kukis who had
+given trouble, telling them that they were undoubtedly within
+Manipur, and that I gave them forty-two days in which to submit,
+or clear out, adding, that if at the end of that time they gave any
+trouble, they would be treated as rebels and attacked without more
+ceremony. Eventually they submitted and became peaceful subjects
+of Manipur. As to the great question--that of the boundary--I may
+here add that it received the sanction of the Government of India,
+and proved a thorough success. Though not noticing it officially,
+the Burmese practically acknowledged it, and it remained intact,
+till the Kubo valley became a British possession in December 1885.
+
+My wife and I reached Manipur on the 9th of January, having made the
+last two marches in one, and next day were joined by Mr. Phayre, who
+had come, vi� Tamu. He gave it as his opinion, that the Pagan Woon
+was greatly disappointed at having had no authority from Mandalay to
+negotiate with me, and described him as a sensible well-disposed man.
+
+I had now to write my report of my mission, and having finished this,
+and handed over charge to my successor, I left Manipur with my wife
+on the 29th of January, reaching Cachar, where we met Mr. Elliott,
+the Chief Commissioner, on 5th of February. We left that evening by
+boat, and travelling with the utmost speed possible, with such means
+as we possessed, reached Naraingunge, near Dacca, and after waiting
+two days for a steamer went to Calcutta, vi� Goalundo, and thence to
+Bombay and England, where we arrived in March, both of us very much
+in need of a prolonged rest.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+    Return to India--Visit Shillong--Manipur again--Cordial
+    reception--Trouble with Thangal Major--New arts introduced.
+
+
+I left for India again in August 1884. I had had but a sad period
+of sick leave, as my wife never recovered from her fatigue and
+illness, and died in 1883. I was obliged to prolong my leave to make
+arrangements for my children.
+
+I took over charge of the Manipur Agency on the 1st October, 1884,
+at Shillong, and stayed a few days with the Chief Commissioner. I
+left again on 8th October and reached Cachar on the 15th, having
+made every effort to push on, and given my boatmen double pay for
+doing so. On my way to Cachar, I met people who complained to me of
+the way they had been treated in Manipur while I was away, and of the
+arrogance displayed by old Thangal Major, who, during my absence, had
+become almost despotic. Thangal was an excellent man when kept well
+in hand, but he required to be managed with great firmness. During
+the Maharajah's increasing illness, a good opportunity was given to
+a strong man to come to the front, and Thangal took advantage of
+it. On 20th October, I reached Jeeree Gh�t, and was received with
+great effusion by the Minister Bularam Singh. At Kala Naga on the
+22nd, I heard definite complaints against Thangal, a sure proof that
+something very bad was going on, as no one would have ventured to
+complain without grave provocation. Bularam Singh was Thangal's rival,
+so I asked him nothing, knowing well that I should hear as much as I
+wanted at Manipur. At Noongha, next day, there were fresh complaints,
+the charge being, that men told off to work on the roads were being
+used by Thangal to carry merchandize for himself.
+
+At Leelanong, overlooking the beautiful Kowpoom valley, some Nagas
+(Koupooees) brought me a man of their tribe who had been carried off
+as a boy by the Lushais, and only lately redeemed. He was still in
+Lushai costume, and though shorter and fairer, he greatly resembled
+one of that tribe, showing what an influence dress has.
+
+On 28th October, I arrived at Bissenpore, intending to march to the
+capital next day, but was delayed by an unpleasant circumstance. It
+was, as already mentioned, the custom for the Maharajah to meet me
+at the entrance to the capital on my arrival, but knowing that he was
+not well, I asked the minister to write and say that I did not expect
+him to do so, but I would invite the Jubraj to meet me at Phoiching,
+half-way between the capital and Bissenpore instead. I also wrote the
+same to my head clerk, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo, asking him to notify
+my wishes to the Durbar, as I felt it extremely likely that were
+Bularam Singh alone to write, old Thangal might intrigue and throw
+obstacles in the way to discredit him with me and the Durbar. The
+minister's letters were not answered, but I heard from Rusni Lall
+Coondoo, that he asked to see the Jubraj who had already heard from
+Bularam Singh, but he was told that he was ill. After a great deal of
+delay an interview was accorded, and though he appeared quite well,
+the Jubraj said he was too ill to come, but would send a younger
+brother. Feeling sure that there was nothing to prevent his coming,
+I sent a message of sympathy, also to say, that I would wait at
+Bissenpore till he recovered. I knew perfectly well that all this
+story had emanated from Thangal Major's brain, and that I was to be
+subjected to inconvenience and want of courtesy, in order to snub his
+colleague. He had suffered from a sore foot which prevented his coming
+to Jeeree Gh�t to meet me and he could not forgive Bularam Singh for
+having taken his place. The Jubraj ought to have known better, but
+among natives any slight offered to a superior is an enhancement to
+one's own dignity, so from this point of view he would gain in his
+own estimation.
+
+On the morning of October 30th, as soon as I was dressed, I saw
+Thangal Major outside my hut. I heard afterwards that, directly my
+decision had been communicated to the Durbar, he had volunteered
+to come out, and as he said, bring me in. When we had had a little
+friendly conversation, he with his usual bluntness, which I did
+not object to, asked me to go in, saying that the Wankai Rakpa [36]
+would meet me, the Jubraj being ill. I firmly declined, saying that I
+would wait till he recovered. He then assured me that the real cause
+was the critical state of the Jubraj's wife. I doubted the truth,
+but a lady being in the case, courtesy and good feeling demanded
+that I should accept the statement as an excuse, and I therefore
+said I would leave, if the Wankai Rakpa and another prince met me
+on behalf of the Jubraj. This was at once agreed to, and I therefore
+marched off, being met in great state by the two princes, who rode by
+my side all the way. As I neared the capital, a vast crowd came out
+to meet me, the numbers increasing at every step, and I was received
+with every demonstration of respect and sympathy, many of those who
+knew my wife showing a delicacy of feeling that greatly moved me. Old
+Thangal, when I met him, spoke very kindly on the subject, saying,
+"It is sad to see you return alone, and we know what it must be to
+you." Numberless were the enquiries by name after all the children. At
+last I reached the Residency, where my old attendants were ready
+to do all they could for me. It was something like home, old books,
+furniture, children's toys, still here and there, and in a corner of
+the verandah my little girl's litter, in which she was carried out
+morning and evening, but the faces that make home were away.
+
+I mention the foregoing incident regarding the Jubraj, as it is a good
+example of the small difficulties connected with etiquette, that one
+has to contend with in a place like Manipur. The question is far more
+important than it seems. Any relaxation in a trifling matter like this,
+seems to Asiatics a sign that you are disposed to relax your vigilance
+in graver questions. Indeed, to a native chief, etiquette itself is a
+very grave matter, and many terrible quarrels have arisen from it. I
+well remember a slight being offered to the Viceroy, because a Rajah
+fancied he had not received all the honours due to him.
+
+I found a crop of small difficulties awaiting me in Manipur, the
+Durbar, and especially old Thangal, had got out of hand, and had
+to be pulled up a little. There were numberless complaints from
+British subjects of petty oppression which had to be listened to,
+and I felt it rather hard having this unpleasant duty to perform
+just after my return; but it was duty, and had to be done, and by
+dint of firmness, combined with courtesy, I soon set things right,
+but Thangal Major rather resented the steady pressure which I found
+it necessary to apply.
+
+Before leaving Manipur in 1881, I had sent off some Manipuris to
+Cawnpore to learn carpet making and leather work. When I returned,
+these men had long been making use of their knowledge in Manipur,
+and I found that first-rate cotton carpets and boots, shoes and
+saddles of English patterns, had been manufactured for the Maharajah,
+the workmanship being in all cases creditable, and in that of the
+carpets most excellent.
+
+I tried to send men to Bombay to learn to make art pottery, and the
+Maharajah was at one time anxious about it, but the correspondence
+with the School of Art was conducted in so leisurely a manner on
+their side, extending over nearly a year, that he got tired of it,
+and declined to send the men. I had a little pottery made in Manipur,
+which I brought home with me, the only existing specimens of an art
+that died out in its infancy.
+
+I had several pieces of silver work made to try the mettle of the
+Manipuri silversmiths, one bowl, a most perfect copy of a Burmese
+bowl with figures on it in high relief, was beautifully executed,
+and still excites the admiration of all who see it.
+
+The Mussulman population of Manipur, was descended from early
+immigrants from India, Sylhet, and Cachar, who had married Manipuri
+wives; they numbered about 5000, and were rather kept under by the
+Durbar, but to nothing like the same extent that Hindoos would have
+been under a Mussulman Government. Formerly, they had to prostrate
+themselves before the Rajah like other subjects, but they having
+represented that this was against their religion, Chandra Kirtee Singh
+excused them from doing it, allowing a simple salaam instead. They,
+(probably owing to their dependent position), were not such an
+ill-mannered and disagreeable set as their co-religionists of Cachar,
+and were generally quiet and inoffensive. The headman of the sect
+received the title of Nawab from the Rajah. These men had a grievance
+to bring forward when I returned, and I procured them some redress.
+
+I visited the Maharajah in due course, and found him better than I
+expected, and I took an early opportunity of announcing my return to
+the Burmese authorities in the Kubo valley, receiving civil letters in
+return. Unfortunately, I found that great soreness still prevailed
+in Manipur on account of the non-settlement of the Kongal case,
+and I was constantly on the alert lest evil results should follow,
+as I always suspected old Thangal of a desire to make reprisals.
+
+When I had a day to spare, I went to see my experimental garden and fir
+wood, at Kang-joop-kool, finding everything in a flourishing state,
+the wood a tangled thicket, with foxgloves and other English flowers
+growing in wild profusion. One morning when walking out, I saw some
+prisoners going to work, and as they passed me, one or two looked as
+if they would like to speak. I accordingly passed by them again to
+give them an opportunity, when a man ran up and complained that he
+was imprisoned without any definite period being assigned, a common
+practice in Manipur. Another man, whom he called as a witness, spoke
+good Hindoostani, and on my enquiring where he learned it, he said
+he was a Manipuri from Sylhet. I sent for him directly I got home,
+and he came with Thangal Major, and, as he was a British subject,
+and the Durbar had no right to imprison him, I sent for a smith, and
+had his irons struck off in my presence. I spoke quietly, but firmly
+to the Minister, but showed him plainly that I would not stand having
+British subjects imprisoned except by my orders. The man's offence
+was not paying a debt for which he was security, and the punishment
+was just, according to the laws of Manipur, and would have been in
+England before 1861.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+    A friend in need--Tour round the valley--Meet the Chief
+    Commissioner--March to Cachar--Tour through the Tankhool
+    country--Metomie--Saramettie--Somrah--Terrace cultivators--A
+    dislocation--Old quarters at Kongal Tannah--Return to the valley--A
+    sad parting.
+
+
+On the 26th of November, my old friend Lieutenant Dun (now Major
+Dun, D.S.O.), joined me. Knowing I wanted a friend to cheer me
+in my loneliness, he had very kindly accepted the permission of
+his department to accompany me on a tour through the hills to the
+north-east of Manipur. No European was more deservedly popular of
+late years among all classes in Manipur, where he had visited me
+once or twice before. I felt his kindness deeply, he was always a
+charming, genial and highly intellectual companion, and many a long
+and tiring march was cheered by his society. On the 2nd of December,
+we started on a preliminary tour round the west and south of the
+valley, visiting the Logtak lake, with its floating islands, its
+island-hill of Thanga, with its orange gardens and place of exile,
+and large fishing establishment. When I first arrived in Manipur,
+oranges were a rarity. Now, owing to the enterprise of the Maharajah
+in planting trees, they were fairly common, and here we were able
+to gather them. The orange tree is capricious and all soils will not
+suit it, and up to the fifth or sixth year it is always liable to be
+attacked by a grub that kills it, after that it becomes hardier. I
+never was very successful with orange trees, though I took great
+pains with them. From the Logtak lake, we marched to a place called
+Thonglel, in the hills, where we were met by all the representatives
+of the Kukis in that direction, thence to a place called Koombee,
+a settlement of Loees, low-caste Manipuris. Afterwards we marched to
+Chairel on the main river into which all the rivers of Manipur flow
+before it enters the hills to the south of the valley. After visiting
+Shoogoonoo, a frontier post, we returned to the capital, on December
+11th, after a very pleasant tour of one hundred and forty-six miles
+in nine marching days.
+
+We next marched up the road to the Naga Hills, meeting the Chief
+Commissioner, Mr. Elliott, at Mao, and returning with him to Manipur,
+where the usual visits were exchanged. After a day or two's halt,
+the Chief Commissioner set out for Cachar and I accompanied him to the
+frontier at Jeeree Gh�t, returning to Manipur by forced marches. The
+bridge over the Mukker had been broken by a fallen tree, but the river,
+so formidable in the rains, was easily fordable. A short time before
+reaching the summit of Kala Naga, a pretty little incident occurred,
+which I have never forgotten. Some of my coolies were toiling up the
+steep ascent with their loads, when two young Kukis met us with smiling
+faces as if something had given them great pleasure. They immediately
+made two of the men with me put down their loads, and took them up
+themselves to relieve the wearied ones. On my enquiry who they were,
+they said they were friends of my coolies and had come to help them. It
+was one of the prettiest sights I ever saw, the pleasure the two men
+seemed to derive from doing a kind act. Dun and I reached Manipur
+on the 10th of January. Soon after my return, in fact before the
+evening, a Lushai was brought to me who had been found in the jungle
+with his hands tightly fastened together by a bar of iron fashioned
+into a rude pair of handcuffs. He appeared to be mad, but harmless,
+and had probably been kept in confinement by his own people and had
+escaped. I had the irons taken off, and ordered him to be cared for,
+but he soon ran off in the direction of his own country.
+
+On the 21st of January, Dun and I set off on our tour through the
+Tankhool country. We marched vi� Lairen and Noongsuangkong, already
+described. The country had been surveyed, but the surveyors had
+taken names of villages given by men from the Naga Hills district,
+and they were unrecognisable to the native inhabitants. Much of my
+march, after leaving Noongsuangkong, was through a new country,
+and a very interesting and lovely country it was. The benefits
+of being under a strong government were evident in the peace that
+reigned everywhere. The Manipuri language also had spread, and in some
+villages seemed to be used by every one, while in others even children
+understood it. It was evidently the common commercial language.
+
+On the 26th, we halted on the Lainer river, the large village of
+Gazephimi being far above us at some miles distant. It was late in
+the afternoon but Dun wanted to see all he could, and accompanied
+by some hardy Manipuris started. They all returned in a suspiciously
+short space of time, just at nightfall, Dun having astonished every
+one by his marching powers. He described the villagers as a surly,
+morose set, the description always given of them.
+
+On January 28th we reached Jessami, a fine village of the Sozai tribe;
+they much resembled the Mao people. They crowded round us and were
+much pleased when we showed them our watches, and allowed them to feel
+our boots and socks. Some of the houses were large and well stocked
+with rice. One old man took us into his house and showed us a shield
+carefully wrapped up in cloth that bore the tokens of his having slain
+fifteen people. The village contained no skulls, and our friends told
+us that they obeyed orders and killed no one. We enquired about the
+snowy peak of Saramettie, which was visible from some point not far
+distant, but the people assured us that they had never heard of it.
+
+On the 29th, some Metomi men came in with a young man who acted
+as interpreter, he having been captured, and then kept as a guest
+in Manipur for some time, to learn the language, by Bularam Singh,
+who was the Minister accompanying me. He seemed quite pleased to see
+his old host. The Metomi people were a strange set, quite naked,
+except for a cloth over the shoulders in cold weather. They are
+slighter built than the Angamis and Tankhools. They could count up
+to one hundred, and three of their numerals, four, six and seven,
+are the same as in the Manipuri language. They wear their hair cut
+across the forehead like some of the tribes in Assam. Their patterns
+of weaving rather resembled those of the Abors and Kasias, but were
+finer. They wore ear-rings of brass wire very cleverly made, the wire
+being imported through other tribes.
+
+On the 31st, having heard that I should be well received, Dun and
+I started for Metomi, with an escort of Manipuris. We first made a
+descent of 2000 feet to the Lainer, which we forded, the water being
+knee deep; there were the remains of a suspension bridge for use
+in the rainy season. We then ascended for about 1000 or 1500 feet,
+till near the village, when I halted my men and sent on my Angami
+interpreter, and one of the Metomi men, to ask that a party might
+come down to welcome us, as I had reason to think that the villagers
+were undecided as to what they should do, and I feared to frighten
+them. After waiting a long time, we heard a war-cry, and we all
+started to our feet and seized our arms, in case of an attack; the next
+minute, however, there was another cry, showing that the people were
+carrying loads. Soon after a long line of men appeared, each carrying
+a small quantity of rice, and the heads of the village came forward,
+presenting us with fowls, and heaped up the rice in front of me. We
+then walked on to the village, distant about a mile and a quarter,
+along an avenue of pollarded oaks, backed by fir trees. At last,
+after passing a ditch and small rampart, we reached the outer gate,
+then passed along a narrow path, with a precipice to our right, and a
+thick thorn hedge to our left for about eighty yards, as far as the
+inner gate, on entering which we found ourselves in the village. We
+were then led along a series of winding streets till we came to the
+highest part.
+
+This was the most picturesque Naga village I have ever seen, and
+reminded me of an old continental town, the ground it covered, being
+very hilly, and the houses, constructed of timber with thatched roofs
+with the eaves touching one another, built in streets. Sometimes one
+side of a street was higher than the other, and the upper side had
+a little vacant space railed in, in front of the houses.
+
+The houses were more like those of the Tankhools than the Angamis,
+and contained round tubs for beer cut out of a solid block of wood,
+in shape like old-fashioned standard churns. The village contained
+pigs and dogs, and the houses were decorated with cows' and buffaloes'
+horns. We were welcomed in a friendly way, but our hosts did not
+seem to like the idea of our staying the night, of which we had no
+intention. Our watches and binoculars greatly interested them. We
+tried in vain to induce the women to come out, the men saying they
+feared lest we should seize them. This seemed very strange, as it was
+the only hill village I ever saw where the women had the slightest
+objection to appear. As the Manipuris always respect women, it could
+not be due to their presence, even had they had experience of them,
+which was not the case. On leaving the village, we passed through
+a splendid grove of giant bamboos, and then turned into our old path
+again. Metomi was said to contain seven hundred houses, but that seemed
+to me a very low estimate. We reached our camp near Jessami at 7 P.M.,
+narrowly escaping a severe scorching, as some torch-bearers who came
+to meet us, set fire to the grass prematurely, and we had to run hard
+to escape the flames. I wanted to make a vocabulary of the Metomi
+language the next day, but the whole village had a drinking bout,
+and every one was incapacitated during the rest of our stay.
+
+We marched to a place called Lapvomai on February 3rd, and next day,
+wishing to explore the country beyond, Dun and I, with a picked party
+of Manipuris, crossed the ridge above the village, and descending
+to the stream below, began the ascent of the great Eastern range,
+encamping in a most lovely spot in a pine forest. Every one was
+too tired to search for water, so the Manipuris went supperless to
+bed. Dun and I had brought a supply, which we shared with our few
+Naga followers, the Manipuris being prevented from doing the same,
+by their caste prejudices. Early next morning we started up the hill
+again, leaving the bulk of our party a mile or two in advance of our
+halting place, to search for water and cook. We, with two or three
+plucky Manipuris, whom hunger and thirst could not induce to leave
+us, pursued our upward path. At last we came on patches of snow, and
+in a hollow tree found the remains of a bear which had gone there to
+die. After a toilsome ascent, often impeded by a thick undergrowth of
+thorny bamboo, we, having long passed the region of fir trees, reached
+the summit at 8000 feet, only to find, to our great disappointment,
+a spur from the main range blocking our view. As this range might have
+taken another day to surmount, and after all be only the precursor
+of another, we reluctantly traced our steps backwards, and reached
+our party who found water and cooked their food. We witnessed some
+amusing instances of rapid eating, on the part of our hungry followers,
+who had well deserved their dinner. We then descended to the stream,
+and encamped on its banks after being on foot for eleven hours.
+
+Next day, we marched to our old encampment at Lapvomai. On February
+7th, we marched to Wallong, passing through lovely scenery, a series
+of deep valleys and ravines and high hills, with a splendid view down
+the valley of Thetzir and Lainer, and beyond, the junction of the
+latter with its north-eastern confluent, we finally encamped close
+to a very remarkable gorge. On the 8th, we had another march to the
+village of Lusour, where I greatly pleased a woman and some children,
+by giving them red cloths, the former would have denuded herself to
+put hers on, had I not prevented her. Next morning, before starting,
+we had our breakfast in public, and ordered some boiled eggs; the
+hill people are supremely indifferent to the age of an egg, and even
+seem to think the richness of flavour enhanced by age, so that almost
+all brought to us were either addled or had chickens in them. At
+least two dozen were boiled before we found one that we could eat,
+and as soon as an egg was proved to be bad, there was a great rush
+of Tankhools to seize the delicacy, and our bad taste in not liking
+them gave great satisfaction.
+
+On February 9th, we reached Somrah, a most interesting but severe march
+of eighteen miles. We first crossed a ridge 8000 feet in height, where
+among other trees we found a new species of yew--Cephalotaxus. After
+reaching the summit, we made a gradual descent along an exceedingly
+steep hillside, where a false step would have landed us in the stream
+2000 feet below. After this we descended more rapidly, and, crossing
+a stream, followed a beautifully constructed watercourse through
+some recently cleared land. We traced our way along its windings
+for some miles, and then, after another ascent, at last came to a
+lovely undulating path through a forest of firs and rhododendrons,
+the latter just coming into flower. The path at length, after an
+ascent of 200 feet, brought us to the village, a finely built one of
+the regular Tankhool type, with over two hundred houses, built with
+stout plank walls, and having an appearance of much comfort.
+
+The next day we went to Kongailon, one of the Somrah group, making
+a descent of 2000 feet to cross a river, and again ascending 5600
+feet. We passed many skilfully constructed watercourses and much
+terrace cultivation, indeed, the Somrah villages have the finest
+system of irrigation I have ever seen, and the long parallel line of
+watercourses on a hillside present a most remarkable appearance. At
+Kongailon, we halted a day to explore the country, and receive
+deputies from various villages. From the ridge behind the village,
+at a height of from 7000 to 8000 feet, there was a fine view of the
+Somrah basin--valley it cannot be called; it is a huge basin, the rim
+of which consists of hills, having an average height of over 8000 feet,
+the villages being on the inner slopes or on bold spurs.
+
+On February 12th, a very severe march took us to Guachan,
+a miserable-looking village full of very dirty people, many of
+whom were naked, their bodies being covered with a thick coating
+of dirt. We had to halt next day to rest the coolies, and to have
+a path cleared ahead. On February 14th, we again started, halting
+on the Cherebee river, at a height of 4400 feet. On our way, while
+passing along a lovely ridge, covered with rhododendrons in flower,
+we had a fine view of Saramettie, with its snow cap.
+
+Next day, we marched over Kachao-phung, 8000 feet high, and encamped
+on its slopes at 7600 feet. So perverse are the ways of the hill-men,
+that the road, a well-used one, was carried within fifty feet of
+the summit, though it would have been easy to cross at a much lower
+level. We encamped in a primeval forest of huge trees, the branches
+of which, moved by the fierce wind that blew all night, waved to and
+fro with such a threatening noise as to preclude sleep for a long time.
+
+On the evening of the 12th, one of our coolies was brought to me,
+who had dislocated his shoulder. We had no doctor of any kind with us,
+and no one who understood how to reduce it. Dun and I tried our utmost,
+and I put the poor fellow under chloroform, to relax the muscles and
+spare him pain, but, alas! with no result. I tried to induce him to go
+to Manipur, and be treated by my native doctor there; but he objected,
+and preferred going to his home; so I gave him a present and let him
+go, and very sorry we were to see him relinquish his only chance
+of getting right again. Every one ought to be taught practically
+to reduce a dislocation; I had often heard the process described,
+but never seen it done, and my lack of experience cost the poor Naga
+the use of his arm. It is one of the saddest parts of one's life
+in the wilds of India to meet cases of sickness and injury without
+the power to give relief. Simple complaints I treated extensively,
+and with great success, but it was grievous to see such suffering in
+more complicated cases, and to be unable to do anything. A skilful and
+sympathetic doctor has a fine field for good work in such regions. A
+sick savage is the most miserable of mortals.
+
+The good points of the Manipuris, as excellent material for
+hardy soldiers, were brought out very prominently on these long
+marches. No men could have borne the fatigue and hardships better or
+more patiently than they did. It quite confirmed me in the opinion
+I had long since formed that, taken every way, the Manipuris were
+superior to any of the hill-tribes around them. I remember that
+when at Jessami, one of the Manipuris, at my suggestion, challenged
+any Naga, who liked, to a wrestling match, none would come forward,
+though the villagers were a fine sturdy set. It was impossible, also,
+to help noticing, as we went along, the very remarkable aptitude the
+Manipuris possess for dealing with hill-tribes. The Burmese tried in
+vain to subdue the Tankhools, and in one case a force of seven hundred
+men, that they sent against them, was entirely annihilated. However,
+as the Manipuris advanced, the different tribes, after one struggle,
+quietly submitted, and on both occasions when I marched through the
+north-eastern Tankhool country, the people were in admirable order,
+and behaved as if they had always been peaceful subjects of Manipur.
+
+Next morning, though the thermometer was at thirty-six degrees,
+the Manipuris felt the cold so severely from the terrible wind
+that had been blowing all night, that they did not attempt to cook
+before marching, but started off and hurried down the hill to get
+to a warmer region. I never knew the hardy fellows do this before,
+and it shows the influence of a piercing wind in making cold felt,
+as I have often seen them quite happy on a still night with the
+thermometer at twenty-six degrees or lower.
+
+Five more marches brought us to Kongal Tannah, where I encamped on the
+ground we occupied in 1881-1882 when I was Boundary Commissioner. On
+our way, we received a visit from Tonghoo, the redoubtable Chussad
+chief, now a peaceful subject of Manipur, a man of the usual Kuki type,
+imperturbable and inscrutable. Next day, I inspected the boundary
+pillars I had set up, and found them intact, a satisfactory proof
+that the settlement was not unacceptable to either Manipur or Burmah.
+
+We marched back by the old route, encamping as we had done more than
+four years before in the deep valleys of the Maglung and Turet. On the
+24th, from the crest of the Yoma range, we saw the valley of Manipur
+once more at our feet, and in the evening encamped at Ingorok. Next
+day, I parted from my friend, I riding into Manipur, and Dun going
+north for a few days' more survey of the country. He rejoined me
+on March 2nd. Thus ended one of the hardest, but, at the same time,
+one of the pleasantest marches I ever made, all the pleasanter for
+the society of such a clever and charming companion. We spent one
+more week together, and then Dun went back to his appointment in the
+Intelligence Department, to my great regret, and I settled down to my
+usual routine work, constantly varied by interesting little episodes.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+    More troubles with Thangal Major--Tit-for-tat--Visit to the Kubo
+    valley--A new Aya Pooiel--Journey to Shillong--War is declared--A
+    message to Kendat, to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents--Anxiety
+    as to their fate--March to Mao.
+
+
+During the spring of 1885, I had constant trouble with Thangal
+Major; the old man was perpetually doing illegal acts. He had lost
+his head during my absence in England, and though treated with every
+courtesy, he greatly resented being called to order. Some Mussulmans
+had complained to Mr. Elliott about the oppression exercised towards
+them, and in my absence Thangal was foolish enough to imprison them. Of
+course, I heard of it, and insisted on their release, and this weakened
+his authority. Again, he, as "Aya Pooiel," i.e. Minister for Burmese
+Affairs, greatly resented our not having settled the Kongal case,
+and insisted on the authors being punished. We were very good friends
+privately, though I always expected further trouble with him. The
+Maharajah's ill health also gave me anxiety, as he was no longer the
+active man he once was, and was daily falling more and more under
+Thangal's influence.
+
+At last matters came to a crisis. On May 23rd, I received a letter from
+the Burmese authorities at Tamu, brought by a deputation reporting that
+some murders had been committed by Manipuri subjects, and the next
+day when the visitors came to see me, they openly accused the Mombee
+Kukis of having done the deed. I felt sure that the outrage had been
+carried out at the instigation of Thangal Major, as a set-off against
+the Kongal case, and I sent for him. He came to see me on May 25th,
+and, when I opened the subject, he assumed rather a jaunty air. I
+spoke very gravely, and told him that it was a very serious business,
+and that an investigation must take place, and that I wished him, as
+Aya Pooiel, to accompany me. He replied in a very unbecoming manner,
+and began to make all sorts of frivolous excuses, the burden of his
+speech being that, as justice had not been done in the Kongal case,
+there was no need to investigate a case brought by the Burmese. I was
+very calm, and remonstrated several times, but seeing that it had no
+effect, I requested him to leave my presence, which he did. I then
+wrote to the Maharajah asking him to appoint Bularam Singh to aid me
+in the investigation, also reporting Thangal's conduct, and saying
+that I could not allow him to attend on me till he had apologised. The
+worst of Thangal's behaviour was, that he spoke in Manipuri, and in
+the presence of the Burmese messengers, who understood it, instead of
+in Hindoostani which no one but myself understood. Thinking carefully
+over the matter, I wrote to the Maharajah on May 26th, requesting
+him to replace Thangal in the Aya Pooielship by another officer,
+suggesting Bularam Singh, as I did not consider it safe to leave him
+in charge of the Burmese frontier.
+
+There was the greatest opposition offered to my request, and the
+Maharajah made every effort to evade it. It was currently stated by
+people in the Court circle that it would be easier to depose the
+Maharajah himself, but I remained firm. Meanwhile, Bularam Singh
+was appointed to accompany me, and, on June 8th, I left for Moreh
+Tannah, near Tamu, halting the first day at Thobal. Before leaving,
+I received an apologetic letter from Thangal, and later he called
+on me, and made an ample apology, speaking very nicely. I accepted
+the apology personally, quite reciprocating his friendly sentiments,
+but told him that, having acted in the way he did, I could not trust
+him as Aya Pooiel.
+
+I reached Moreh Tannah on June 13th, and was visited by some
+Burmese. The next day, I proceeded to the scene of the murder,
+and exhumed two headless bodies, and took evidence regarding the
+raid. Before reaching Manipur, I heard through some Kukis the most
+convincing proofs that the Mombee people had committed the raid, and
+at Thangal Major's instigation. I obtained all the necessary details
+later on, but the Burmese war prevented my undertaking an expedition
+for the release of some Burmese captives who had been carried away
+and sold, though I accomplished it later on.
+
+At Moreh Tannah, I obtained some excellent mangoes, the only ones
+free from insects that I ever saw on the eastern frontier, those in
+Assam and Manipur being so full of them as to be uneatable when ripe,
+though beautiful to look at. Here also I had most unpleasant evidence
+of the existence of a plant that has the smell of decomposed flesh. I
+imagined that a dead body had been buried under the temporary hut I
+lived in, till a Manipuri explained matters to me, and showed me the
+plant in question.
+
+I reached Manipur on June 20th, and a day or two after wrote to the
+Maharajah, calling to mind my letter respecting the Aya Pooielship, and
+again requesting Thangal's removal. The next day the old fellow called,
+and we had a very friendly interview, and I explained my reasons for
+acting as I had done. He seemed convinced, and rose and seized my hand,
+and said, "You are right. I understand thoroughly." He then said he
+would cheerfully submit, and went away in an apparently excellent
+frame of mind. It is said that after this, his son, Lumph�l Singh,
+a very bad young man, talked him over and urged him to resist, but,
+anyhow, he soon after went to see the Maharajah, and recanted all he
+had said to me. However, I was determined to persist, and told the
+Maharajah plainly that he must choose between me and Thangal, with the
+result that he consented, and the Aya Pooielship was given to another.
+
+This struggle caused me great regret, as Thangal had many good
+qualities, and but for his having had his own way too much during my
+absence in England, would never have lost his head as he did. However,
+there was one good result, as I established very friendly relations
+with the Burmese authorities, who saw that I wished to be just,
+and this stood me in good stead when the war broke out.
+
+During the whole time that the dispute was going on, I had the support
+of the Jubraj, who said I was in the right, and most people, I believe,
+thought likewise. All the same it was painful to gain a victory over
+one who had worked well with me for years, more especially as I felt
+that the weakness of our own Government in not insisting on justice
+being done in the Kongal case, had given him some justification in
+his own eyes, though this was a plea that I could never admit.
+
+In October 1885, I went to Shillong to see the Acting Chief
+Commissioner, Mr. Ward, and as he was intending to march through
+Manipur on his way to the Naga Hills, I stayed with him, and we all
+left Shillong together on November 4th. We left Cachar on November
+12th, and halted that evening at Jeeree Gh�t, I on the Manipuri
+side of the river, the Chief Commissioner and his following on the
+British. A short time before dinner--we were all Mr. Ward's guests--I
+received a note from him, directing my attention to a telegram,
+and asking me to act on it. The telegram was a startling one, and
+was to the effect that war with Burmah was to commence, and that our
+troops would pass the frontier on a certain date; that there were
+nine European and many native British subjects in the employ of the
+Bombay-Burmah Corporation in the Chindwin forests with whom it had
+been impossible to communicate, and to ask me to make every effort
+to let them know the facts, and to do anything I could to assist
+them. The matter was extremely urgent, as, if I remember rightly,
+the 25th was the day for the troops to enter Upper Burmah, and every
+moment was of the utmost importance.
+
+I thought it over for five minutes, and determined on a course of
+action, and set to work at once to follow it out. I knew perfectly
+well that with the frontier and all roads so carefully guarded, as
+I had seen those in the Kubo valley to be, there was absolutely no
+chance of a secret messenger advancing ten miles on Burmese soil,
+and I therefore resolved to send my letter through the Kendat Woon
+(Governor of Kendat), the great Burmese province of which the Kubo
+valley was part. I wrote a letter to the European employ�s of the
+Bombay-Burmah Corporation, giving the message I was asked to transmit,
+and urging them to make every effort to accept my hospitality and
+protection in Manipur. To this letter I appended Burmese and Manipuri
+translations, and put them in an open envelope addressed in the three
+languages, hoping and believing that, seeing that the contents were
+the same in both languages, which they had the means of understanding,
+the Burmese authorities would, on the principle of the Rosetta stone,
+assume that I had said the same in English.
+
+This done, I enclosed the envelope in a letter to the Kendat Woon, in
+which I told him exactly how matters stood, and that in a short time
+Burmah would be annexed, and urging him, as he valued the goodwill of
+the conquerors, to make every effort to protect and aid the British
+subjects in his province. I asked him to deliver the letter, to which I
+had appended translations that he might read what I said, and to bear
+in mind that any service he might render would be richly rewarded and
+never forgotten, while he might rely on my word as his well-wisher;
+that a terrible punishment would befall any one who injured a hair of
+the head of a British subject. In addition to this, I wrote letters
+to the Burmese authorities at Tamu, with whom I was on friendly terms,
+begging them, as they valued their lives, and my goodwill, to forward
+the letter to the Woon with all possible speed.
+
+This done, I went to dine with the Chief Commissioner, and when he
+asked if I had received his note, I told him I had acted on it. Feeling
+that I had done all that I could for the best, I took no further steps
+at the time than to issue orders to the Manipuri frontier stations,
+to give all aid requisite to fugitives from Burmah, and to make
+arrangements for their being entertained in Manipur, should they
+arrive in my absence.
+
+I heard afterwards that there was great anxiety in Burmah when it was
+known that I had communicated with our isolated countrymen through the
+Burmese authorities, it being regarded as likely to seal their fate.
+
+I marched to Mao on the Naga Hills frontier with the Chief
+Commissioner, and then returned to Manipur, arriving on the 4th,
+and on the 5th heard from Moreh Tannah that a European was being
+kept a prisoner at Kendat. I wrote at once to the Tamu Phoongyee,
+asking him to use his influence to release him, saying that I was in
+a position to march to his aid in case my letter had no effect.
+
+On December 9th, I heard that all the Europeans at Kendat had been
+murdered, the Queen of Burmah's secretary having arrived with one
+hundred regular troops on a steamer and ordered their execution,
+and that forty of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation's elephants and all
+their native followers had been arrested.
+
+On December 10th, the news of the capture of Mandalay arrived. It gave
+immense satisfaction, and it was said that many of the old people,
+who knew what Burmah was, were so pleased that they could not eat
+their dinners. The Jubraj visited me to offer his congratulations,
+and a salute of thirty-one guns was fired.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+    News from Kendat--Mr. Morgan and his people safe--I determine to
+    march to Moreh Tannah--March to Kendat--Arrive in time to save
+    the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents--Visit of the Woon--Visit
+    to the Woon.
+
+
+On December 17th, I at last received a letter from Mr. A. J. Morgan,
+the chief agent of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation at Kendat,
+acknowledging my letter of November 12th. He told me that three
+Europeans, Messrs. Allan, Roberts and Moncur, had been murdered on the
+River Chindwin by the Queen's Secretary; that he and Messrs. Ruckstuhl
+and Bretto had been protected by the Kendat Woon, and four others by
+the Mengin Woon. He said the Chindwin valley was filling with dacoits,
+i.e., brigands, and that their position was very precarious. I at
+once wrote to the Woon thanking him warmly for the protection he
+had accorded to my fellow-subjects, and sent him a pair of handsome
+double-barrelled guns, one of them a rifle, as a present, also five
+hundred rupees, which I asked him to give to Mr. Morgan.
+
+Feeling certain of the dangerous position of the British subjects at
+Kendat, if they were surrounded by disbanded soldiery who had turned
+brigands, I determined to march to the frontier, so as to be ready
+to give aid, if necessary. I accordingly asked the Maharajah to lend
+me 400 Manipuris, and 500 Kukis, and one mountain gun. With these,
+and fifty men of my escort of the 4th Bengal Infantry, under Subadar
+Baluk Ram Chowby, I marched off on December 19th.
+
+My escort consisted of sixty men of all ranks, but I weeded out
+ten as not likely to stand the severe marches we might have to
+undertake. I then paraded the remainder and addressed them, saying
+that any man who felt himself unfit for service might fall out, and I
+should think none the worse of him. All stood fast, and then I said,
+"Now, I will not take you, unless you promise me not to fall sick,
+till you have escorted me back safely to Manipur." The men gave a
+shout of acclamation, and I gave the order to march, and never had I
+better, braver or more devoted men under me, or men who bore hardship
+and want of all the little comforts of life more cheerfully.
+
+We reached Moreh Tannah, where I had intended to halt and watch events,
+on December 23rd, and there I received a letter from Mr. Morgan,
+who described the state of things at Kendat as daily getting worse,
+and expressed his conviction that if the dacoits reached Kendat,
+the Woon would be unable to hold his own; he therefore hoped I might
+be able to afford them the aid they so sorely needed, as, unless a
+force marched to their assistance speedily, their lives would not
+be safe. On hearing this, I determined to march for Kendat at once,
+and by the rapidity of our movements overcome all resistance; indeed,
+not to allow the Burmese time to think of it. Accordingly we marched
+to Tamu, where the authorities at once submitted, and I declared the
+country annexed, and reappointed the old officials, pending further
+orders, promising my protection to all classes, and calling on the
+people to complain at once if any of my followers injured them.
+
+All this done, we marched to Mamo, some miles beyond Tamu, where
+we halted in the rice fields attached to the village which was very
+strongly stockaded. My camp was at once filled with men, women and
+children, all disposed to be friendly and all willing to receive
+little presents. It was a pretty feature of the Kubo valley, as of
+Upper Burmah generally, and as in Assam formerly, that immediately
+on leaving the village cultivation you plunged at once into forest.
+
+My party was not so numerous as I could have wished. The Minister,
+Bularam Singh, accompanied me, but the nine hundred men all told,
+that I had asked for, were not there, and the supply of provisions
+was scanty. I made all my escort take ten days' food per man, with
+orders not to touch it, without my direct permission, and I procured
+supplies wherever I could, as we went along. I also took a large
+supply of money.
+
+As Bularam Singh was holding the appointment formerly held by Thangal,
+he had not the knowledge to help him in all petty details that the
+other would have had. However, realising more keenly than ever from
+my experience at the relief of Kohima, the extreme value of time,
+and of rapid strokes, I pushed on at all hazards, trusting to have
+my numbers made up.
+
+I had a few first-rate Manipuri officers with me, and my old orderlies,
+Sowpa, Thutot, and Sundha. I took my excellent hospital assistant,
+Lachman Parshad, and my Manipuri secretary and interpreter, Chumder
+Singh, and most of my old chuprassies, who were invaluable. My head
+clerk, Rusni Lall Coondoo, was unfortunately on leave, marrying his
+daughter, and I greatly missed him.
+
+On the morning of December 24th, we started from Mamo, determined
+to reach Kendat next day, though the Burmese said it was absolutely
+impossible to do it. I had with me my escort of fifty men of the 4th
+B.I., and between three hundred and four hundred Manipuris, the Kukis
+not having arrived. The old road had been disused, and our path was
+a perfect zigzag. We halted long after sunset at Pendowa on a small
+stream, the Nunparoo. The mountain gun did not arrive, and half our
+force was not up till midnight. When all the coolies had arrived,
+I told them that if we reached Kendat next evening, they should have
+buffalo to eat.
+
+The country through which we had passed was not naturally a difficult
+one, but there had been no attempt to make it good, and in places it
+was very bad, all the more so from the unnecessary number of times that
+we crossed the same river. I was much interested to see large numbers
+of bullock carts in the villages, such not being used in Manipur.
+
+Next morning, we started early, and soon began to ascend the Ungocking
+hills. This seemed endless, one range succeeded another, here and there
+we saw coal cropping out of the hillside. After about 12.30 P.M., the
+path was alternately along the bed of a stream and over high ridges,
+one of those meaningless, winding roads that seem made expressly to
+irritate people with no time to spare. At last, in the far distance,
+we saw a scarped hill, that was said to be close to Kendat, and cheered
+by the sight, we pressed on, but it was hours before we reached the
+goal. About 4 P.M., I met a Burmese, who spoke Hindoostani, and gave
+me a letter from Mr. Morgan, telling me that he and his party were all
+well, and earnestly longing for our arrival. The man told me that he
+was the "Hath�e Jemadar," i.e., the man in charge of the elephants,
+and he accompanied us.
+
+At last, just after sunset we reached the Chindwin river, even then,
+in the dry season, six hundred yards wide. We gave a loud cheer and
+hoisted the Union Jack; and the "Hath�e Jemadar" went over to tell
+the Europeans we had come to save, of our arrival. All my escort and
+most of the Manipuris marched in with me; every man had done his best
+and hearty were the congratulations that passed between us.
+
+We had marched sixty-five miles over a terribly rough country, the
+last thirty being quite impassable for even laden mules, in thirty
+hours. A havildar of the 4th said, "Sahib, is not our march one of
+the greatest on record?" I told him that it was. It was pleasant to
+think that we had arrived on Christmas Day. How little my children
+in England realised the way I was employed.
+
+In less than an hour Mr. Morgan, who had seen our arrival, came over
+accompanied by Messrs. Ruckstuhl and Bretto, his subordinates, all
+dressed in Burmese costume, everything they had having been plundered
+in the Woon's absence. Mr. Morgan brought over a message from the
+Woon to me, saying that he submitted to my authority, and would come
+over to-morrow, and tender his formal submission.
+
+Next day he appeared with Mr. Morgan and made his submission. He
+was a dignified old man, with a pleasant face expressive of much
+character. I thanked him on behalf of Government for his services in
+protecting British subjects, and told him that, while assuming charge
+of the country on the part of the British Government, I wished him
+to remain in office, and conduct the administration pending definite
+instructions. I told him that I expected him to maintain order,
+and quiet down the country, and promised him any assistance which he
+might require to aid him in the endeavour.
+
+After this, I set to work to secure supplies with Mr. Morgan's aid,
+so as to be ready for any emergency, and then crossed the river and
+called on the Woon and inspected the stockade, a huge enclosure, 420
+yards long and 163 wide, with a wall of solid teak logs, 18 feet high,
+and none less than a foot square, with strong heavy gates. I returned
+to my camp before nightfall, and the mountain gun arrived under the
+escort of Gour Duan Subadar. Next day, I heard that the Mengin Woon
+had absconded, finding his position untenable.
+
+Had I had a trained levy at my disposal, as would have been the case
+had my advice been followed, I could have easily sent a force to
+occupy Mengin, and might indeed have marched to Mandalay. As it was,
+commanding only irregulars, my position was one of daily anxiety.
+
+The site of Kendat was very picturesque, situated on the high left
+bank of the Chindwin, up and down which a view of many miles is
+obtained, the reach being there a long one. The stockade contained
+the greater part of the official residences, and a good proportion of
+the inhabitants, but there were many houses outside, and temples and
+phoongyes' residences. Below the town was a large Manipuri village,
+inhabited by the descendants of captives taken in the war of 1819-25.
+
+In the rainy season, when the Chindwin is at its height, and 1200 yards
+wide, with the long ranges of the Manipuri Hills in the background,
+the view is said to be very beautiful. For many miles round Kendat,
+to the east of the Chindwin, the country is flat, but studded here
+and there with strange-looking hills with scarped sides, that rise
+abruptly out of the plains, calling to mind the hill-forests of Central
+India. Kendat was well supplied with boats, many of them being most
+elaborately carved.
+
+It was a great misfortune that none of the men of my escort understood
+the management of boats, a most useful accomplishment on the eastern
+side of India, where rivers abound, and one in which the men of the
+old Assam regiments used to be proficient.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+    People fairly friendly--Crucifixion--Carelessness of Manipuris--I
+    cross the Chindwin--Recross the Chindwin--Collect provisions--Erect
+    stockades and fortify our position--Revolt at Kendat--We assume
+    the offensive--Capture boats and small stockades--Revolt put
+    down--Woon and Ruckstuhl rescued--Steamers arrive and leave.
+
+
+The Burmese were fairly friendly to us, though they did not display
+any love for the Manipuris, and the latter showed rather too plainly
+that they thought the tables were turned, and that they now had the
+upper hand of the Burmese.
+
+In many of the villages along our line of route in the Kubo valley,
+we had observed crosses ready for the crucifixion of malefactors,
+especially dacoits. These were also to be seen here and there, on
+the banks of the river at Kendat, but the Woon afterwards told me
+that he rarely crucified offenders and disliked employing torture;
+indeed he had the reputation of being a merciful old man. However,
+the people at large seemed quite to approve of strong measures, and
+knowing what Burmese dacoits are capable of, I hardly wonder. After
+I left, the man who introduced himself to me as "Hath�e Jemadar"
+incautiously surrendered to some dacoits, who first broke the bones
+of his legs and arms inch by inch, and then ripped him up!
+
+On the 28th December, I crossed the river with my whole force, and
+entrenched myself on the sandbank of the Chindwin. That evening, I
+heard from Mr. Morgan, that there was a strong party opposed to the
+Woon, and greatly dissatisfied with him for having submitted. Troops
+had been expected up the river from the British force at Mandalay, and
+their delay encouraged the Burmese to hold up their heads. Next day,
+December 29th, the air was full of rumours, and some of the Burmese
+Manipuris, I have just alluded to, plied my Manipuris with all sorts
+of stories, of a rising against us, on the part of the Burmese. These
+stories had a great effect on the Manipuris, and they displayed so
+much unsteadiness, and at the same time such gross carelessness,
+that I determined to recross the river. I heard too that six men
+coming to join me, had been killed, and three wounded on the road,
+report said, by Burmese. I laughed at the idea, as I was sure that
+the assailants were wild Chins, as the Burmese would not show their
+hand prematurely. However, the news spread, and served to dishearten
+the men.
+
+On the 30th I transported my whole force to the opposite bank,
+it cost me incredible trouble, and I had to superintend the most
+petty details myself. I sent over a party to construct a stockade
+into which the Manipuris could be penned like a flock of sheep for
+the night and which I could enlarge afterwards, and I insisted on
+the work being finished that day. It was finished, and last of all
+I crossed the river with my escort.
+
+Next day, Mr. Morgan told me that things had quieted down very much
+among the Burmese; we did all in our power to collect provisions, and
+I enlarged the stockade, improving it from day to day, till it at last
+became a commodious and strong defensive building, scientifically
+constructed. I occupied a small stockade on a hillock above it,
+whence I had a good view, and could overlook the Manipuris. I had a
+circle of outlying pickets supplied by the Kuki irregulars with me,
+and these were a perpetual safe-guard against surprise during the
+long dark nights. We cleared the jungle from round our stockade,
+and did all we could to make our position secure.
+
+Still the Manipuris were a constant anxiety, illustrating the
+well-known saying, "Fools rush in, where angels fear to tread." Their
+carelessness was astonishing. I had the utmost difficulty in
+getting them to take the most ordinary precautions. The bravest and
+best-disciplined troops in the world would never think of neglecting
+every rule of warfare in the way that they did. Fire was a constant
+danger, and having no warm clothes, the Manipuris could hardly be
+prevented from lighting fires at night, thereby incurring a double
+danger, viz., that of setting fire to the stockade, also lighting
+up our position and enabling an enemy to fire at us. I was as a rule
+eighteen or nineteen hours on foot out of the twenty-four, and during
+the five or six allotted to sleep, I generally got up three times,
+to see that all was right.
+
+Provisions began to come in, and on the last day of the year, I sent
+off 400 coolies to Moreh Tannah for provisions, so as to reduce the
+useless mouths, and to lessen the danger from fire. I rebuilt all
+the huts of green grass, as less inflammable than dry materials.
+
+On January 1st, evil rumours were again afloat, and I asked the Woon if
+he were sure of his position. He replied that he was, and had perfect
+confidence that he could keep every one in hand. However, I went on
+collecting provisions, and while hoping for the arrival of the troops
+expected up the river, prepared for any eventuality. On January 3rd,
+large supplies of rice came in. The Issekai, an officer holding the
+rank of major, came twice to see me, and all seemed well. Mr. Morgan
+was with me all day helping with the rice sellers, but left about 4
+P.M. About an hour afterwards, he reappeared with Mr. Bretto, saying
+that they had been shut out of the stockade, but that Mr. Ruckstuhl
+was detained there. They suspected a rising throughout the country,
+as a rumour had just been spread that a Royal prince was about to
+arrive at Kendat with 3000 men.
+
+This was bad news, and I begged Messrs. Morgan and Bretto to stay the
+night with me. There was no time to be lost; I felt certain that the
+country had risen, and that in a few hours our communications would
+be cut, so I wrote to Manipur asking the Maharajah to send me 1000
+men under Thangal Major at once to Moreh Tannah, to await events,
+and 500 to join me at Kendat, also a good supply of provisions. I
+telegraphed also to Government saying what had happened, and that
+I had taken every precaution, and that they might rely on my doing
+all that man could. I asked for no help, feeling that, if, with my
+present resources, I could not retrieve my position, I should soon
+be past help. I also wrote a few lines home, explaining matters in
+case I was killed, with a few last words to my children.
+
+These letters I sent off by swift and trusty men well armed, with
+orders to push on with all speed. Having done this, I prepared for
+a life-and-death struggle next day.
+
+As the morning broke and the heavy mist began to rise earlier
+than usual, we speedily saw the changed aspect of affairs. We
+had secured two boats under a guard the night before, but all
+besides had been taken from our side of the river. All the people
+had left a neighbouring village, but just below us we saw one boat
+after another leaving, heavily laden with the inhabitants and their
+portable goods. The opposite sandbank too, was occupied in force by
+the Burmese, who held our former entrenchment, and one or two small
+stockades. By this time also the country in our rear had risen, so
+we were completely cut off. The opposite bank was crowded with large
+boats, giving every opportunity to the enemy to send a strong party
+over to attack us by night, were he so disposed.
+
+Immediate action was necessary, if only to save the British subjects,
+and the faithful Woon who had suffered in our cause. The good old
+Minister, Bularam Singh, quite lost his nerve, and begged and implored
+me to make terms and retreat, as the only means of saving ourselves. I
+told him that my very children and friends would despise me, if I,
+for a moment, contemplated such a course, and that there was nothing
+for it but to fight it out.
+
+"Which man should you respect most?" I said, "one who cringed at
+your feet, or one who boldly struck you?" "The man who struck me," he
+replied. "Exactly so," I said; "and it is the same with the Burmese. I
+intend to strike a hard blow."
+
+I had an ultimatum written in Burmese, demanding the surrender of the
+Woon, and his officers, and of all British subjects within two hours,
+under pain of my attacking the stockade; this I did, to run as little
+risk of injury to the captives, as possible. I had the ultimatum tied
+to a bamboo, and sent in a boat to a shallow part of the river, and I
+called to a Burmese to take it. This was done. I looked at my watch,
+and when the time expired, opened fire on the stockade.
+
+For the first time in my life, I laid a gun. I judged the distance from
+the high bank where we stood, to the great stockade, to be 1250 yards,
+and the first shell went over it. I lessened the range by 50 yards,
+and again fired, and this time struck the stockade fair and well. We
+saw and heard the shell explode, and our men raised a loud shout of
+triumph. This little success gave the Manipuris renewed confidence. I
+lined our bank with picked shots of the 4th B.I., and under cover of
+these and the gun, sent two parties across in the boats, with orders
+to attack and destroy all the small stockades, and to capture some
+boats to convey more of our men across, and to burn all the rest,
+so as to prevent the enemy assuming the offensive.
+
+Mr. Morgan, eager for the fray, went as a volunteer and assumed the
+natural position of leader. We kept up the fight all day. Shot after
+shot struck the great stockade, all the small ones were captured and
+burned, the enemy driven from the shore and every boat within sight
+either brought over to our side, or sent burning down the river.
+
+Meanwhile, the Burmese had not been entirely passive, they had opened
+an artillery fire on us, and one or one-and-a-half-pound shots
+began to fall on our side. Old Bularam Singh walked up and down,
+notwithstanding this, with the greatest indifference, having now
+recovered his spirits, and behaved very well.
+
+By sunset, nothing remained to be captured but the great stockade,
+and many were the volunteers, both Hindoostanis and Manipuris who
+begged to be allowed to cross once more and attack it. However,
+I would not consent, only two men, Messrs. Morgan and Bretto, knew
+all the turns and windings of the place, and one false move might
+convert our success into a disaster. All the same, I felt terribly
+anxious as to the fate of the Woon and of the British subjects.
+
+I went to my hut in the evening, feeling that we had done all we
+could. As I passed through the stockade, I was surprised to see the
+clever way in which the coolies remaining with us had strengthened it,
+by digging deep trenches sufficient to afford a man perfect protection
+against rifle fire, even without the stockade.
+
+I rose early on January 5th, after an anxious night, having given
+orders for a party to be ready to cross the river with me, to attack
+the great stockade; but, just as I left my hut to make a start,
+I was met by Mr. Ruckstuhl with irons on his ankles--he had got rid
+of the connecting bars--who told me that it had been evacuated. The
+facts I learned were as follows.
+
+On the evening of January 3rd, incited by the near approach of three
+thousand men and the promised support of the Tsawbwas of Thoungdoot,
+Wuntha, Kubo, and six other districts, the bad spirits in the town rose
+against the Woon, and put him and his family and chief officials, with
+Mr. Ruckstuhl, in irons. It was only by a mistake that Messrs. Morgan
+and Bretto were shut out of the stockade and not arrested.
+
+When my ultimatum arrived, the Burmese laughed at the idea of my
+doing anything, and when our fire opened on them they were just about
+to crucify the Woon and Ruckstuhl. When, however, our attack began
+to make an impression on them, and shells burst in the stockade,
+especially one in a room where the chief men were deliberating,
+they retreated, leaving their prisoners. Mr. Ruckstuhl had hidden
+under a hedge, and the Woon and his family were taking refuge in a
+Phoongye's house. This was good news and an immense relief to every
+one; we felt we had done our work.
+
+I immediately took a party across the river and rescued the Woon,
+and took possession of the huge stockade, which would have cost us
+many a life to capture, had it been well defended. We took sixteen
+guns and a large number of wall pieces, all said to have been wrested
+from Manipur in former days.
+
+The Woon's house was apparently intact, but empty, and the town
+was deserted. In a house we found a hen on a brood of chickens,
+unmoved apparently by all the firing and commotion. I made over
+the Woon's house to him again, and I established a Manipuri guard
+for his protection. With reference to the guns, I should say that I
+did not take them from the stockade on my first arrival at Kendat,
+not wishing in any way to lower the prestige of the Woon who had
+done us such good service, and who professed himself quite able to
+account for them, and to keep the people in order. As events proved,
+we were quite able to take them when necessary.
+
+Just as we had finished our work, and Mr. Morgan and I were taking
+some food in the afternoon, two steamers came in sight far down the
+Chindwin. These proved to be the party sent to rescue the British
+subjects at Kendat, under Major Campbell, 23rd Madras Infantry;
+and consisted of a company of the Hampshire Regiment and some blue
+jackets, and some of the 23rd Madras Infantry, and great was their
+disappointment to find that the work had been done before they
+arrived. However, had we waited for them, there would have been no
+one to rescue on their arrival.
+
+To my intense surprise, I heard that Kendat was to be abandoned, but
+no arrangements had been made for carrying away the Native British
+subjects. Mr. Morgan would not abandon these and the valuable property
+of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation, and elected together with Mr. Bretto
+to stay with me. I strongly urged Mr. Ruckstuhl (whose brother, one
+of the refugees from Mengin, had been brought up by Major Campbell)
+to leave for Rangoon with the steamers, as I thought, after twice
+narrowly escaping a violent death, he had better run no more risks. He
+took my advice. The steamers left on January 8th.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+    Mischief done by departure of steamers--Determine to establish the
+    Woon at Tamu--The Country quieting down--Recovery of mails--Letter
+    from the Viceroy--Arrive at Manipur--Bad news--I return to
+    Tamu--Night march, to Pot-tha--An engagement--Wounded--Return to
+    Manipur--Farewell--Leave for England.
+
+
+We had gained immense prestige by the vigorous way in which we had
+put down the revolt, and the people from the neighbouring country
+began to come in and make their submission, but the departure of the
+steamers was a great blow to it. Of course, the natives attributed
+it to fear. Had they stayed, all trouble would have been at an end,
+and the country would have quietly settled down. As it was, this
+unfortunate retreat again upset the minds of all.
+
+The Chindwin, and the route to it through Manipur, had not been
+considered when the campaign was decided on. No part of a country
+that it is intended to annex can with safety be neglected, and the
+Chindwin valley was a very important part of Burmah.
+
+As I have said before, a properly organised Manipur Levy would have
+solved all difficulties at the outbreak of war; failing that, a
+force specially devoted to the Chindwin valley, and entering through
+Manipur, and aided by local knowledge acquired during many years
+on that frontier, might have occupied the province of Kendat before
+any time had been given for the spread of lawlessness. It is almost
+incredible that, considering the part taken by Manipur, and troops
+moving through Manipur during the war of 1885-6, showing the immense
+facilities offered by that route, that no inquiry whatever was made
+regarding it before the outbreak of hostilities.
+
+I saw plainly that without the certainty of troops and one steamer at
+least arriving to reinforce us, it would be unwise to attempt to hold
+Kendat so far from our base at Manipur, therefore I made preparations
+for escorting all British subjects and property to Tamu, within
+the Woon's jurisdiction, advising the latter to establish himself
+there for the present, and from that point gradually reconsolidate
+his authority. He greatly approved of the suggestion, and I made
+arrangements with a view to carrying it into effect.
+
+It was not till the 10th of January that any post arrived from
+Manipur. The Kubo valley had risen, it was said, in obedience to
+orders received from the Kul� Tsawbwa and a man called the Lay
+Kahiyine Oke, and it was reported that we had been annihilated;
+but the sight of all the captured guns, which I at once sent to
+Manipur, told the people a different tale, and they soon subsided
+and returned to their allegiance. I sent out a party to attack and
+destroy the house of a hostile chief, east of the Chindwin, and it
+was successfully accomplished.
+
+Several letter bags which had been stolen were now given up, and I
+issued proclamations to all the neighbouring chiefs calling on them
+to remain quiet, and keep their people in order.
+
+Two hundred of the troops I had sent for from Manipur, arrived at
+Kendat, and 300 more I ordered to be stationed at different points
+on the road. The 1000 men under Thangal Major were directed by me
+to return to Manipur. Before leaving Kendat, I sent on the Woon,
+with his family and 250 native British subjects, en route to Tamu,
+with a strong escort. The road had been much improved during my
+occupation of Kendat, and was now passable for lightly laden elephants.
+
+I left some Burmese officials at Kendat with orders to report regularly
+to the Woon, and collect taxes due, and having made all arrangements
+that I could for the peace of the country, I quitted it, with the
+remaining portion of my force, on January 14th, encamping at a place
+called M�jong. We reached Tamu on the 17th, where the Woon was well
+received.
+
+I had written to the Thoungdoot (Sumjok) Tsawbwa, asking him to come
+and see me, but he was nervous, and sent his Minister instead. The
+man arrived on the 19th, with a very civil letter from the Tsawbwa,
+making his submission. I explained to him that I should hold his
+master responsible for the good behaviour of his people, and sent
+him to pay his respects to the Woon, which he did. About this time I
+received some very complimentary telegrams from Government, thanking
+me for what I had done; these being followed by an autograph letter
+from the Viceroy, Lord Dufferin.
+
+Being completely worn out with the work and anxiety I had gone through,
+so much so, that I could not sleep without a dose of bromide of
+potassium, I set off for Manipur, to get a little rest, on the 20th
+of January, and reached it, by forced marches, on the 22nd. Mr. Morgan
+came with me, and my escort followed two days after. The men had kept
+their promise, and not one man had "gone sick" for a day, and they
+had always been ready for work; often, since the outbreak on the 3rd
+of January, living for days on rice fresh cut from the enemy's fields
+by the Manipuris.
+
+I left a strong guard of Manipuris in a stockade at Tamu as a help
+to the Woon, and let the Minister Bularam Singh and all the rest of
+the party return with me.
+
+Before leaving Tamu, I handed over one or two men, supposed to
+be rebels, to the Woon, and gave him authority to execute them,
+should he consider it necessary, as an example, saying, however,
+that he must, in that case shoot, hang, or decapitate, as we could
+not allow painful modes of putting to death.
+
+I found, on arrival at Manipur, that another detachment of the 4th
+B.I. had arrived, and I very soon found use for them.
+
+I had hoped to have had some much-needed rest, but on the 24th I
+received a letter from the Woon telling me that two of the leading
+rebels in the outbreak of the 3rd, who had fled towards Wuntho,
+had returned, and were leading about bands of brigands. I heard from
+another source that the men I had delivered into his hands had been
+released on paying heavy fines, and had joined the rebel leaders. The
+Woon had an ample force at his disposal, but, as I saw that another
+storm was brewing, I sent off the new detachment of the 4th, towards
+Tamu, on the 26th, and followed myself (Mr. Morgan having preceded me)
+on the 28th; and on the 30th we marched into Tamu together.
+
+I met the poor old Woon ten miles within the Manipur frontier; he
+had evidently lost his nerve and had fled, the ill-treatment he had
+undergone, and the narrow escape from crucifixion, were too much for
+him. I at once sent him on to Manipur, with orders that he should be
+my guest, and marched on.
+
+As we crossed the frontier, the Burmese left the jungles where they
+had hidden from the dreaded dacoits, and returned with us to their
+villages. Tamu was quiet, the Manipuri guard had stood firm at their
+posts, and held the stockade intact, a work Manipuris are admirably
+fitted for, and thoroughly to be trusted with. My arrival seemed to
+quiet down the valley for many miles, indeed all the inhabitants for
+miles round were by the next day pursuing their ordinary avocations,
+and the only fear was from the dacoits.
+
+On January 31st, at about 6 P.M., I received a report that a party
+of the enemy had hoisted the white flag (the Burmese Royal Standard),
+and taken up their quarters at Pot-tha, a disaffected village twenty
+miles from Tamu. This was an opportunity not to be lost, and I
+prepared to strike a decisive blow. We left Tamu about midnight,
+the force consisting of myself and Mr. Morgan, fifty of the 4th
+B.I., seventy Manipuris, and fifty Kuki irregulars. We had to march
+in single file through the forest, carrying torches to light us,
+and a most picturesque sight it was, the long line winding in and
+out under the tall trees, which the blaze of the torches lighted up,
+producing a very weird effect. We took with us guides from Tamu, and
+marched in deep silence, every now and then passing a village opening,
+though we generally avoided them, if possible.
+
+At last, just after daybreak, we heard the sound of a musket shot;
+our Shan guides said: "This is the place," and instantly evaporated. I
+can use no other term; I saw them one moment, the next they had gone,
+where I know not. We went on, and after a hundred yards, passed
+fortifications just evacuated, and soon after entered the village,
+the enemy retiring before us without firing a shot; we rushed on,
+and searched the houses. I saw the white standard planted outside a
+large house on a platform; I ran up and seized it, close by was a tree
+called in Bengali, "Poppeya," the papaw, I believe, of the West Indies,
+with a soft trunk. A minute after, while I was looking about to see
+if I could observe any of the enemy, a volley was fired, evidently
+intended for me, the royal standard in my hand making me a conspicuous
+mark. I was not struck (probably just at the moment I moved), but
+the tree was, and fell, cut in two by at least twenty musket balls.
+
+I then saw some of the enemy strongly posted, under a house,
+built like all in those parts on strong posts, affording excellent
+cover. I sprang down from the platform, calling to my scattered men to
+follow. One man was ahead of me, and was shot down mortally wounded;
+another minute, and I myself was struck by a shot on the left temple,
+and almost stunned. I was able to rise, but with the blood streaming
+down, not fit to pursue. I called to Mr. Morgan and asked him to head
+a party of the 4th B.I. and clear the village, which was done with
+great gallantry, the men, when they returned, greatly applauding
+Mr. Morgan's courage and dash. Having driven out the enemy who, we
+subsequently ascertained, lost seven killed and twenty-five wounded,
+we set fire to the village and 10,000 maunds of rice stored there,
+i.e., about 360 tons, which, of course, we could not carry away,
+and marched back to Tamil which we reached about nightfall carrying
+our wounded with us. Besides myself, we had one mortally wounded,
+one severely and one slightly. I was able to march back. We took
+three prisoners and heard that the enemy, who did not stop till he
+had crossed the Chindwin, had a force of 400 to 500 men engaged,
+commanded by Boh Moung Schway L�.
+
+On February 6th, all the principal chiefs of the Kubo valley came
+in and made their formal submission to me, promising to remain
+quiet and obey the orders of the Tamu Myo Thugee, whom I appointed
+to administer the valley till further orders. Next day, I made them
+all go to the Pagoda, and swear allegiance to the British Government,
+the oath being most solemnly administered by the Phoongyees. I gave
+definite instructions to all, and urged them to keep the peace,
+and buy, sell and cultivate as usual.
+
+I proclaimed the passes into Manipur open to traders, which gave great
+satisfaction to all, and having satisfied myself that everything
+was quiet I set out for Manipur to consult Dr. Eteson, the Deputy
+Surgeon-General, who was passing through, about my wound. I arrived
+by forced marches on February 9th, and found that the sepoy mortally
+wounded on February 1st, had died on the 8th.
+
+Dr. Eteson urged me to go to England on sick leave, and I very
+reluctantly determined to follow his advice. But, before leaving, I
+had the satisfaction of seeing the whole of the Kubo valley in a state
+of profound peace for a month and a half. Provisions were no longer
+a difficulty. They were freely brought in, and the little luxuries
+that Hindoostani troops require over and above what can be bought on
+the spot, were taken down by traders. So great was the energy of the
+latter, that 2000 buffaloes were exported through Manipur to Cachar
+during this short period, and when I finally bade adieu to my friends
+at Tamu, Mr. Morgan and I both expected that war was at an end, and
+that perfect peace would prevail. It was not our fault that it did not.
+
+Let me here offer a tribute to one who stood by me nobly in the hour
+of need, but who, unfortunately, died of cholera at Kul�, after his
+return from well-earned leave in England. Morgan was a thoroughly good
+fellow all round, a devoted servant of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation,
+and one who put their affairs before everything. As gentle and kind
+as he was brave, he was a great favourite with the Burmese, and had
+evidently much influence with them. He was always in favour of mild
+measures, unless strong ones appeared absolutely necessary.
+
+While still in Burmah, I had sent in my despatches to General Sir
+H. Prendergast, K.C.B., who commanded the army of invasion, in which I
+strongly commended to his notice the admirable services of my escort,
+mentioning specially several men whom I thought particularly deserving
+of it, though all had done so well, and shown such devotion to duty
+and soldier-like spirit, that it was a difficult task to select any
+one in particular. General Prendergast forwarded my recommendation
+to the Commander-in-Chief, and it was a great satisfaction to me
+when I heard afterwards that Baluk Ram Chowby, then Subadar Major
+of his Regiment, had received the Order of British India, with the
+title of "Bahadur," and that other decorations and promotions had
+been bestowed. The detachment of the gallant 4th Bengal Infantry,
+took with them, as trophies to their regiment, a standard they had
+captured, and also one of the sixteen guns taken at Kendat.
+
+I left the old Woon at Manipur, having strongly recommended him to the
+favour of Government. He stood by our people in a dark hour, and saved
+them from torture and death. He was of high family, and had fought
+against us in 1852. He had the air of a thorough gentleman, and was,
+with all his family, most amiable in conversation and demeanour.
+
+Before leaving, I paid one last visit to Kang-joop-kool and saw my
+child's grave, [37] and the peaceful scenery and lovely views over
+the hills and the broad valley, thinking of the past and its many
+memories connected with the place. I paid my last visit to the Rajah,
+when I told him that I had strongly urged the restoration to him of
+his old possession, the Kubo valley. I visited all the familiar spots
+round the capital. I said good-bye to old Thangal, Bularam Singh,
+and all my old followers, and, on the 19th of March, bade adieu to
+Manipur, which I felt I had raised out of the mire of a bad reputation.
+
+I left it as it had been of yore, a faithful and devoted, though
+humble, ally of the British Government to whom it had done transcendent
+service. Alas! little did I think of the fate that would befall it
+before a few short years had passed by.
+
+My escort turned out to salute me as I left the Residency gate,
+and I gave them an address, thanking them for their services. Then
+the Subadar Baluk Ram Chowby insisted on their accompanying me for
+some distance. When time for them to return, he halted his party,
+drew them in line by the side of the road, and presented arms, and as
+they did it they gave a loud shout of "Colonel Sahib Bahad�r ke jye,"
+i.e. "Vive Monsieur le Colonel Victorieux;" we have no equivalent for
+it in English. My heart was too heavy to say much; I said a few words,
+and we parted.
+
+As I crossed the summit of the Lai-metol range I gave a last look at
+the valley, and saw it no more.
+
+I passed through Shillong, where I was hospitably entertained by the
+Chief Commissioner, Mr. Ward, and on reaching Calcutta received a
+command to visit Lord Dufferin at Benares. He received me very kindly,
+and under his roof I spent a most enjoyable day. I left Bombay on the
+9th of April, and reached home on the 28th, thus practically finishing
+my active Indian career, after nearly twenty-eight years' service.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+    The Events of 1890 and 1891.
+
+
+When I first began this book it was my intention to have given a
+connected account of the Palace Revolution of September 1890, and
+that of 1891, against the British Government. Being probably the only
+living person in full possession of the whole facts connected with
+the startling events that then took place, and the circumstances that
+led up to them, and having, moreover, a strong conviction that it
+is best for all parties that the truth should be known, I felt that
+a fair and impartial statement could do no harm, and might act as
+a warning. Further reflection has led me to alter my determination,
+and to ask myself the question, "Cui bono?" The Government of India
+has shown no desire to make more disclosures than necessary, and it
+is not for me, a loyal old servant, to lift the veil.
+
+
+        "Let the dead past bury its dead."
+
+
+However much, therefore, I may wish to see the right horse saddled, I
+shall for the present, at any rate, avoid criticism as far as possible,
+and confine myself to a few general remarks.
+
+Nothing that I can say will undo the past, and all that remains is
+to hope for the future.
+
+After I left Manipur fresh disturbances broke out in the Kubo valley,
+where I had left all peaceful, prosperous, and contented, and a
+considerable strain was put on the resources of Manipur. Had I been
+ordered to return I would gladly have done so, but my health was
+too bad to make it advisable for me to volunteer my services. [38]
+I regret that I did not, as I might in that case have again urged
+the claims of Manipur to have the Kubo valley restored to her, as she
+had a right to expect that it would be; substantial hopes having been
+on at least one occasion held out to her, and her many good services
+and constant loyalty entitling her to consideration.
+
+However, it was not to be; and in the summer of 1886 another misfortune
+befell her, in the death of Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. Perhaps,
+like his father, Ghumbeer Singh, he was happy in the hour of his
+death, as he did not live to see the disgrace of his country, and
+the ingratitude of our Government to his family.
+
+Now was the grand opportunity for the Government and an able Political
+Agent to step in and make the many needful reforms, and introduce
+necessary changes, and instil a more modern spirit in keeping with the
+times, into the institutions of the country. Did we take advantage of
+it? Of course we did not; but, true to our happy-go-lucky traditions,
+let one precious opportunity after another pass by unheeded. Year after
+year during my period of office had I struggled hard, and carried
+on a never-ending fight for influence and prestige, with the strong
+and capable old Chandra Kirtee Singh, gaining ground steadily; but
+realising that, while I worked, the full advantage would be reaped
+by that one of my successors who might chance to be in office when
+my old friend closed his eventful life. At such a time, in addition
+to the result of my labours, a weaker occupant of the throne would
+afford many opportunities such as were not vouchsafed to me, and now
+the time had arrived when we might have worked unimpeded for the good
+of all classes.
+
+Soor Chandra Singh, the former Jubraj, or heir apparent, succeeded
+his father, a good, amiable man, with plenty of ability, but very
+weak. He was loyal to the British Government, and had on several
+occasions given strong proof of it, and he was much respected by his
+own people. Had he been taken in hand properly all would have been
+well, but the Government of India seems never to have realised that
+excessive care and caution were necessary. The records of the past
+plainly showed that the appointment of a Political Agent was always
+a difficult one to fill satisfactorily, but no pains seem to have
+been at any time taken to find a suitable man; if one happened to be
+appointed, it was a matter of chance, and the post seems generally
+to have been put up to a kind of Dutch auction. On one occasion I
+believe that an officer, who was at the time doing well, and liked
+the place, was taken away, and another, who did not wish to go,
+sent up, to die within a month of a long-standing complaint. For all
+this, of course the Foreign Office must be held responsible, as it
+had a long traditional knowledge of Manipur; and though its powers
+were delegated to the Chief Commissioner of Assam, it should have
+ascertained that that officer was capable of making a good selection,
+and had an officer under him fit for the appointment. The work may not
+have been of a nature requiring the very highest class of intellect,
+but it certainly did require a rather rare combination of qualities,
+together with one indispensable to make a good officer, namely,
+a real love for the work, the country, and the people. My immediate
+successor had these latter qualities, but he died of wounds received
+within six weeks of my leaving. [39]
+
+It is to be regretted, also, that the Government of India acts so much
+on the principle that the private claims of some of its servants should
+be considered before the claims of the State generally, and the people
+over whom they are put, in particular. It seems to be thought that
+the great object, in many cases, is to secure a certain amount of pay
+to an individual, quite irrespective of his qualifications, rather
+than to seek out an officer in every way competent to administer
+a great province, and satisfy the requirements of its people. I
+say this especially with reference to Assam. Few provinces of India
+require more special qualities in its ruler, containing, as it does,
+many races of different grades of civilisation; the situation being
+further complicated by the presence of a large European population of
+tea-planters. These, by their energy and the judicious application of a
+large amount of capital, have raised it to a great pitch of prosperity,
+and they naturally require to be dealt with in a different way to
+their less civilised native fellow-subjects.
+
+An officer may be an admirable accountant, or very well able to
+decide between two litigants, or, may be, to look after stamps and
+stationery; but without special administrative experience, or those
+abilities which enable a genius to grasp any subject he takes up,
+he cannot be considered fit to be trusted with the government of a
+great and flourishing province. His claims as regards pay should not
+be allowed to weigh at all with the Government of India; it is unjust
+to the people, and would be cheaper to give an enhanced pension than
+ruin a province. Yet it cannot be denied that the considerations
+I have referred to, do prevail, and that the Manipur disaster was,
+in a great measure, due to the system, and that with proper care it
+could never have happened.
+
+When I was in Manipur no European could enter the state without
+obtaining the permission of the Durbar through the Political Agent, and
+the Maharajah, very wisely, did his utmost to discourage such visitors,
+unless they were friends of the latter. Orchid collectors, and such
+like, were rigorously excluded, wisely, again I say, considering the
+havoc wrought by selfish traders with these lovely denizens of the
+forests of Manipur and Burmah, and when the Burmese war broke out,
+very few were those of our countrymen who had visited the interesting
+little state. As for myself I quite sympathised with the Maharajah and
+I even said a word on behalf of the Sungai (swamp deer) peculiar to
+Manipur and Burmah, and advised him to preserve it strictly. I fear it
+must be extinct in Manipur by this time. The Burmese war changed all
+this; troops poured through the country, and European officers were
+constantly passing to and fro, much to the annoyance of the Durbar. Of
+course, a stay-at-home Englishman will hardly understand this, but to
+anyone knowing natives of India well, it is self-evident, a European
+cannot go through a state like Manipur where suspicion reigns rampant,
+and where people are wedded to their own peculiar ways, without causing
+a great deal of trouble. All sorts of things have to be provided for
+him, and though he pays liberally, some one suffers. The presence
+of one or two Europeans constantly moving about would no doubt in
+itself be a source of annoyance to the high officials of Manipur,
+who would always suspect them of making enquiries with a view to an
+unfavourable report to Government. All natives of India are suspicious,
+and this remark applies with tenfold force to Manipuris.
+
+It cannot, I fear, be denied, that as a race we are a little careless
+of the feelings of others. It is possibly due in a great measure
+to our insularity; but, whatever be the cause, it is an undesirable
+quality to possess. With a regiment of Native Infantry stationed at
+Langthabal to support our authority, our prestige ought to have rapidly
+increased; apparently the reverse was the case, and from time to time
+incidents occurred, which indicated how events were drifting. On one
+occasion some sepoys of the Political Agent's escort were hustled
+and beaten by some Manipuris at a public festival, and on another the
+man carrying the Government mail bag between Imphal and Langthabal,
+was stopped and robbed of the mails. Everything seemed to show that
+our position was not what it had been. In former days such things
+could not have happened.
+
+Kotwal Koireng had always been a bad character, and had for years
+been under a cloud. Had I remained in Manipur I should have turned
+him out when the Maharajah his father died, and reported the matter
+to Government. He was allowed to remain, and proved the ruin of
+the state. His blood-thirsty nature soon showed itself, and he
+half-roasted two men after a most cruel flogging, the Maharajah
+was asked to turn him out of the state, and would probably have
+consented, but just at the time a European sergeant shot a cow, the
+sacred animal of the Hindoos, an outrage far exceeding any that our
+imagination can paint, and the Rajah in his wrath flatly refused to
+punish his brother, while such a fearful crime as cow killing, was
+allowed to pass unnoticed. Of course the last was an untoward event,
+that should never have occurred. We ought not to allow uncultured
+Europeans likely to be careless of native feeling and susceptibilities
+to enter a state so full of prejudice and suspicion as Manipur.
+
+Thus events followed one another in rapid succession, signs every
+now and then appearing which showed that all was not as quiet as
+it seemed. I heard from time to time things that made me uneasy,
+as I gathered that Kotwal Koireng, now become Senaputtee or
+Commander-in-Chief, had much power and influence, and I felt sure
+that he would soon make an attempt to oust his brother, the Maharajah.
+
+At last the attempt was made. In September, 1890, the Maharajah Soor
+Chandra Singh was attacked in his palace at night, and driven out. He
+fled to Cachar and having petitioned the Government of India for
+his restoration, proceeded to Calcutta. The case was a simple one,
+a palace revolution had occurred and our nominee whose succession
+and whose throne we had guaranteed, had been deposed. The course to
+be adopted by Government was as clear as the day, Soor Chandra Singh
+should have been restored at once and the usurper severely punished
+for insulting the majesty of the British Government. Nothing of the
+kind was done. It was decided, on what grounds I know not, to break
+our pledged word; the Maharajah was to be exiled with a pittance for
+his support; his stupid boorish brother who had been set up as puppet
+by the Senaputtee was to be Rajah; while the evil genius of Manipur,
+the treacherous Senaputtee, was to be exiled. The Government of India
+then ordered the Chief Commissioner of Assam to proceed to Manipur
+and carry out their decision, including the Senaputtee's arrest.
+
+It is difficult to say which showed the greatest want of wisdom,
+the Government in issuing such an order, or the Chief Commissioner
+in accepting such a mission, quite derogatory to one of such high
+rank. We all know how it ended. The less said about it the better,
+it reflects no credit on us. [40]
+
+With one or two things, however, I am concerned, and one of these
+is the sentence on Thangal Major, or General as he was called; in
+the correspondence usually ignorantly referred to, as "The Thangal
+General," a misnomer, Thangal being a name and not a title. This old
+man seventy-four years of age had long almost retired into private
+life. He was a devoted follower of Soor Chandra Singh, and hated
+the Senaputtee whose evil influence he always feared would wreck
+Manipur. This probably made the latter recall him to public life, so
+as to keep him under his eye; anyhow, he was by force of circumstances
+obliged, however unwillingly, to act as a loyal subject of his own
+de facto chief.
+
+I have said so much about the old man, that his character will be
+well understood. He was a strong, able, unscrupulous man, not likely
+to stick at trifles, and, like most Asiatics of his type, capable
+of anything. This does not, however, mean that he was worse than his
+neighbours, our characters are made by our surroundings, and in Manipur
+the surroundings are not of an elevating nature. Thangal was in many
+ways kind hearted, in others ruthless, and for the moment cruel,
+his wrath flared up and, except when kept aglow for policy's sake,
+soon burned itself out.
+
+When first I heard of the outbreak I made two predictions, both proved
+to be true. One of these was that, whoever was guilty, Thangal Major
+would be accused. I never did think him guilty by premeditation,
+but I knew that, as for so long a time he was the strong head of
+the executive, he was not loved, and that to save the Senaputtee,
+whom I of course at once pitched upon as the "fons et origo" of the
+rebellion, and who like all of the blood royal was looked upon as
+semi-divine, he would be accused. I read the evidence published,
+which I can quite understand appeared conclusive to the tribunal
+before which he was tried; reading between the lines, however, with a
+thorough knowledge of Manipur as I was able to do, it gave me quite a
+different impression. Knowing the old man so intimately as I did, his
+way of talking and his way of acting, I am convinced that he was in no
+way a willing accessory to the rebellion, that he in no way connived
+at the invitation to our officers to enter the palace at night, and
+further that he never suggested or consented to their murder! The
+whole proceeding was so totally opposed to his policy that he would
+never have sanctioned such an act of folly, to say the least. The
+Senaputtee richly deserved all he got and more. An unscrupulous and
+selfish butcher by nature he played his cards badly and when he lost,
+determined to involve his whole family and loyal dependents in the ruin
+which his own insensate folly had brought on him. I quite acknowledge
+old Thangal's many faults, but I also remember his good qualities,
+and shall ever regret that he came to such an untimely end.
+
+As regards the disposition of the throne I have a word to
+say. Recognising as I do the necessity of maintaining the firmness of
+our rule and prestige to the utmost, a rule that is of incalculable
+benefit to millions, I quite approved of a heavy punishment being
+exacted as a terrible warning to all time, when we re-conquered
+Manipur. It cannot be denied that we showed unseemly want of nerve when
+the news of the disaster arrived. There was no necessity to place Assam
+under a military ruler, nor was there any need for such a formidable
+muster of troops, at a vast expenditure of money and suffering, to
+retrieve a disaster brought about by such an extraordinary want of
+courage, nerve, forethought and common-sense. [41] Our position in
+Manipur had never been a dangerous one, and even after the murder
+of the Chief Commissioner's party the troops in the Residency might
+easily have held their own till daybreak, when all opposition would
+have collapsed, and the rebels would have fled, leaving our people
+masters of the situation.
+
+I have expressed my opinion as to the mistake we made in not restoring
+the Rajah before the outbreak of March, and now I ask the question,
+why, after the rebellion was put down, we did not do our best to
+repair the evil by restoring Soor Chandra Singh to his own? He,
+or his infant son, might have been restored, and have been kept in
+a state of tutelage as long as necessary, and good government would
+have been secured and our pledge to Chandra Kirtee Singh have been
+maintained intact. Instead of this, an obscure child, a descendant not
+of Ghumbeer Singh, but of Nur Singh, was selected, and the old line cut
+off from the succession, and yet three generations had been faithful
+to us. Ghumbeer Singh, Chandra Kirtee Singh, and Soor Chandra Singh
+all served us loyally, and yet we suffered the last to die of a broken
+heart in exile. Well might he exclaim, "And is this the reward for so
+many years' service!" For my part I say emphatically, let us beware,
+we have not heard the last of Manipur!
+
+My sense of right and justice make me record facts as they strike me,
+and yet I cannot help acknowledging as I do so, that the Government
+of India is the best government in the world. When has India been
+so governed, and what country in Europe has such an able and just
+administration? Surrounded by difficulties, material, financial and
+political, badgered by ignorant members of the House of Commons,
+for ever asking foolish questions and moving foolish resolutions;
+the stately bureaucracy plods steadily on with one object in view,
+the good of the people. If at times it makes mistakes, who does
+not? The greatest General is he who makes fewest mistakes, and,
+judged by this standard alone, the Government of India has the first
+rank among governing bodies. It has, however, a title to honour which
+no one can assail. It is the only instance in history of a body of
+foreigners who govern an Empire, not for their own benefit, but for
+the benefit of the races committed by Providence to their charge. May
+Providence long watch over it!
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+
+[1] Resolution. Political Department, No. 87, 1872.
+
+[2] Birmingham Daily Post, June 15, 1895.
+
+[3] Printed official reports.
+
+[4] One of the witnesses at the trial of the Regent and Senaputtee of
+Manipur, in 1891, stated that Mr. Quinton was partly induced to enter
+the palace from which he never emerged alive, by the Manipuris saying,
+"Are you not our deity?"--Ed.
+
+[5] The Assam Administration Report of 1877-8 writes of it as
+"notoriously unhealthy, and it had long been proposed to move the
+troops to a higher and less feverish spot."--Ed.
+
+[6] When I first went to Assam almost all elephant-catching was done
+by noosing.
+
+[7] The country bordering on the Bhootan Dooars in the Ringpore
+district.
+
+[8] See subsequent sketch of Naga tribes in Chapter III.
+
+[9] Sir James (then Lieut.) Johnstone headed a party to clear an
+Assamese village from a panther that had killed several natives and was
+terrifying the district. It retreated into a house which he ordered
+to be pulled down, and as his men were thus engaged it sprang from a
+window on to his shoulder. With his other arm--the left--he fired at it
+behind his back and wounded it sufficiently to make it loose its hold,
+and rush off into the jungle, where it was killed in the course of the
+afternoon. His arm was terribly injured, and he always considered that
+he owed complete recovery of the use of it to the kindness and skill
+of an English medical friend who came from a great distance to attend
+him. Every one else who was wounded by the same panther died.--Ed.
+
+[10] Captain Butler was struck by a spear from a Naga ambuscade,
+near the village of Pangti in the Naga Hills on December 25, 1876. He
+died on January 7. He had held the appointment of Political Agent
+for seven years, and was the son of Colonel Butler, the author of
+'Scenes in Assam' and 'A Sketch in Assam,' the earliest accounts of
+that eastern border.--Ed.
+
+[11] "The influence exercised by Colonel McCulloch as a political
+agent at Manipur was most beneficial," wrote the Times, April 1, 1891,
+"and since his time no one has been more successful than Colonel
+Johnstone, who took charge in 1877, and rendered conspicuous service
+by raising the siege of Kohima by the Nagas in 1879."--Ed.
+
+[12] As Assist-sup. of the tributary Mehals, Sir James (then
+Lieutenant) Johnstone endowed schools at Keonjhur and presented the
+Government with some land he had bought for the purpose. When the
+Rajah, during whose minority he had managed the affairs of Keonjhur
+as political officer, came of age, the agency was abolished for
+economy.--Ed.
+
+[13] I rewarded Kurum, and he distinguished himself later on.
+
+[14] The name means beautiful garden.--Ed.
+
+[15] Tannah means outpost.--Ed.
+
+[16] Probably a corruption of Khatyra.
+
+[17] I.e. Unclean.
+
+[18] Mentioned frequently later on. In August, 1891, he was a
+fugitive from the British Government, hiding himself on the Chinese
+frontier.--Ed.
+
+[19] Here a British native regiment was stationed, after Sir
+J. Johnstone's retirement, but some time before the troubles of
+1891.--Ed.
+
+[20] Quoted by kind permission of editor from my article in Nineteenth
+Century.
+
+[21] Quoted by kind permission of editor from my article in Nineteenth
+Century.
+
+[22] It will be seen later on that this rumour was not correct.--Ed.
+
+[23] A different place from Konoma.--Ed.
+
+[24] A Sikh.--Ed.
+
+[25] The Jubraj, who afterwards reigned as the Maharajah Soor Chandra
+Singh, died in exile; Kotwal Koireng and Thangal Major were hanged in
+August, 1891, by order of the sentence passed upon them for resisting
+the British Government.--Ed.
+
+[26] In 1891, the Jubraj, then the ex-Maharajah, brought forward
+this fact in his appeal to the British Government, as a reason for
+his restoration.--Ed.
+
+[27] The savage mode in which the Nagas conduct their warfare is
+vividly described by a correspondent of the Englishman writing from
+Cachar, January 28, 1880, after a raid on the Baladhun Tea Gardens
+by a band of the same tribe as those of Konoma. He ends with "The
+whole was a horribly sickening scene, and a complete wreck; and such
+surely as none but the veriest of devils in human form could have
+perpetrated."--Ed.
+
+[28] The order came in a telegram purporting to be from the Chief
+Commissioner, and by whom really transmitted is a mystery. The
+Deputy-Assistant Quartermaster General's Report of this Naga Hill
+Expedition states, that after Lieutenant-Colonel Johnstone's Kuki
+levies had attacked Phesama, and killed about two hundred of the enemy
+in consequence of the loss of some of their own men from an assault
+from this village, the Manipuri army performed no other operation in
+this war (except as coolies and bringing in supplies, and in this
+respect they were invaluable). But he adds, "Colonel Johnstone,
+it is understood, was anxious to attack Konoma on his own account
+without waiting for General Nation and the troops." Colonel Johnstone
+explained in a memorandum that no arrangements had been made by the
+military authorities for the carriage of the guns, and that up to
+the evening before the attack on Konoma he had received no request
+for coolies, but foreseeing some neglect of this kind he had kept
+over one hundred reliable Manipuris for the work, and without them
+the guns could not have gone into action. As to the rest of his levy,
+they had lost three hundred men by sickness, and like all irregulars,
+had been injured by the long delay and enforced idleness. They had
+also been already fired upon by our troops in mistake for Nagas,
+and he feared some unfortunate complication if he brought them again
+to the front. But one hundred and fifty at the request of General
+Nation were posted in the valley to intercept fugitives, and they did
+what they were told. Another force was also left to help to protect
+the camp at Suchema. Colonel Johnstone therein states that he felt
+confident he could have captured Konoma with his Manipuris alone,
+directly after the relief of Kohima. The Konoma men, in fact, offered
+to submit on harsher terms to themselves to Colonel Johnstone than
+were afterwards wrested from them by General Nation with the loss of
+valuable lives, and at a heavy pecuniary cost.--Ed.
+
+[29] I also heard from an old Mozuma friend, Lotoj�, that the enemy
+intended to concentrate all his fire on the officers, so as to
+render the men helpless. I told this to the General and Major Cock,
+and strongly advised them to do as I did, and cover their white
+helmets with blue turbans to render themselves less conspicuous,
+urging the inadvisability of needlessly rendering themselves marks
+for the enemy's fire. The General refused, and Cock said he should do
+as the General did, so I said no more; admiring their dogged courage,
+but wishing that they would take advice.
+
+[30] Sharp stakes of bamboo hardened in the fire.
+
+[31] The official medical report of this campaign gives a deplorable
+account of the sufferings of the wounded, and the gangrene which
+affected the wounds in consequence of the extremely insanitary
+condition of the Naga villages and stockades, where the Naga warriors
+had been congregated for weeks expecting the attack--an additional
+reason why the immediate pursuit into their strongholds which Colonel
+Johnstone had recommended after the relief of Kohima should have been
+carried out--failing the acceptance of the harsh terms of peace. See
+ante.--Ed.
+
+[32] This was the road along which Colonel Johnstone had marched to
+relieve Kohima. The old route from the capital of Manipur to Cachar
+was easy enough in comparison.--Ed.
+
+[33] All wars rest in winter.
+
+[34] Chief Court.
+
+[35] Major Edward Dun died on the 5th of June, 1895.--Ed.
+
+[36] Known as Regent during the recent troubles.
+
+[37] "The Senaputtee seemed determined to wipe away all signs of
+British connection with the State. Not only were the charred remains
+of the Residency still further demolished, but every building in the
+neighbourhood, and the very walls of the compound and garden were
+levelled, and the graves of British officers were desecrated. The
+Kang-joop-kool Sanatorium, twelve miles from the capital, built by
+Sir J. Johnstone, was burnt, and his child's grave dug up."--Times'
+telegram, May 3, 1891.--Ed.
+
+It appears by the official correspondence that the Senaputtee sent
+seven Manipur sepahis to open the child's grave, and scatter the
+remains, out of spite to Sir J. Johnstone, whom he knew had wished him
+to be banished, and who (on account of the Senaputtee's exceptionally
+bad character) would never admit him into the Residency. For this act
+the British military authorities had the sepahis flogged.--Nos. 1-11,
+East India (Manipur) Blue Books.--Ed.
+
+[38] "Oh! for a moment of Colonel Johnstone's presence at such a
+crisis," wrote a British official from Manipur, to the Pioneer, in
+1891. "One strong word with the ominous raising of the forefinger,
+would have paralyzed the treacherous rebel Koireng (Senaputtee)
+from perpetrating this outrage."--Ed.
+
+[39] Major Trotter. He received wounds from an ambuscade, and died
+of their effects, July, 1886.--Ed.
+
+[40] "The general history of the Manipur incident," wrote the Times
+in a leading article, Aug. 14, 1891, "must inspire mingled feelings
+in the breasts of most Englishmen. The policy in which it originated,
+cannot be said to reflect credit on the Government of India, while the
+actual explosion itself was precipitated by a series of blunders which
+have never been explained. There seems to be little doubt that had
+the Government of India made up its mind promptly on the merits of the
+dynastic quarrel between the dethroned Maharajah and his brothers, the
+Senaputtee would hardly have been able to commit the crimes which have
+cost him his life. But for five months the Government of India seemed
+to accept the revolution accomplished last September in the palace of
+Manipur. That revolution was notoriously the work of the Senaputtee,
+although he chose, for his own reasons, to place one of his brothers
+on the throne. The Government did not indeed assent to the change,
+but their local representative does not appear to have taken marked
+steps to express his disapproval. He is said to have tolerated and
+condoned it to this extent, that he kept up friendly relations with the
+new ruler as with the old. On the deplorable mistakes which led up to
+the massacre, and made it possible, it is unnecessary to dwell. They
+are still unaccounted for, and so many of the chief actors in that
+fatal business have perished, that it is more than doubtful whether
+we shall ever know exactly to whom they severally were due."--Ed.
+
+[41] Three columns (one alone numbering 1000 strong), were marched
+at once on Imphal, which was found deserted. The Regent was the
+last of the princes who fled. He released the surviving English
+prisoner, and sent him to the British camp to ask for an armistice;
+but this was refused until he delivered up the Englishmen already
+dead. The Manipuris, then expecting no mercy, opposed the march of
+the troops.--Ed.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga
+Hills, by James Johnstone
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR ***
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills, by 
+James Johnstone
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills
+
+Author: James Johnstone
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2011 [EBook #37839]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project
+Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously
+made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<div class="front">
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"></p>
+<div class="figure xd20e106width"><img src="images/frontcover.jpg" alt=
+"Original Front Cover." width="480" height="720"></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"></p>
+<div class="figure xd20e112width"><img src="images/titlepage.gif" alt=
+"Original Title Page." width="432" height="720"></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first xd20e118">My Experiences in Manipur<br>
+and<br>
+the Naga Hills</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"></p>
+<div class="figure xd20e127width"><img src="images/frontispiece.jpg"
+alt="Major General Sir James Johnstone, K.C.S.I." width="508" height=
+"720">
+<div class="figAnnotation xd20e127width"><span class=
+"figBottomLeft">Graham Photo, Leamington Spa.</span> <span class=
+"figTop">&nbsp;</span><span class="figBottomRight">Walker &amp;
+Boutall, Ph. Sc.</span></div>
+<p class="figureHead">Major General Sir James Johnstone, K.C.S.I.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="titlePage">
+<div class="docTitle">
+<div class="mainTitle">My Experiences<br>
+in<br>
+Manipur and the Naga Hills</div>
+</div>
+<div class="byline">By the late<br>
+Major-General <span class="docAuthor">Sir James Johnstone</span><br>
+K.C.S.I.<br>
+With an introductory memoir</div>
+<div class="docImprint"><i>Illustrated</i><br>
+London<br>
+Sampson Low, Marston and Company <i>Limited</i><br>
+St. Dunstan&rsquo;s House<br>
+<i>Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.</i><br>
+<span class="docDate">1896</span></div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first xd20e118">London:<br>
+Printed by William Clowes and Sons, Limited,<br>
+Stamford Street and Charing Cross. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"xd20e183" href="#xd20e183" name="xd20e183">5</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first xd20e185">I DEDICATE</p>
+<p class="xd20e187">THESE PAGES TO THE MEMORY OF</p>
+<p class="xd20e185">My Wife,</p>
+<p class="xd20e187">WHO SHARED IN MANY OF MY LABOURS AND ANXIETIES<br>
+IN MANIPUR, AND THE NAGA HILLS,<br>
+AND WHOSE SPIRIT INSPIRED ME IN MY LAST ENTERPRISE,<br>
+AND WHO, HAD SHE LIVED,<br>
+WOULD HAVE WRITTEN A BETTER RECORD OF<br>
+OUR EXPERIENCES THAN I HAVE<br>
+BEEN ABLE TO DO. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e206" href=
+"#xd20e206" name="xd20e206">vii</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Author&rsquo;s Preface.</h2>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">When I first brought my wife out to India in 1873, I
+was struck by the comments she made on things which had so long been
+part of my daily life. I had almost ceased to observe them. Every day
+she noted something new, and her diary was so interesting that I
+advised her to write a book on her &ldquo;First Impressions of
+India,&rdquo; and she meant to do so, but never had time. Had she
+lived, this would have been a pleasure to her, but it was otherwise
+ordained. I feel now that I am in some way carrying out her wishes, by
+attempting a description of our life in India, though I am fully
+sensible that I cannot hope to achieve the pleasant chatty style in
+which she excelled.</p>
+<p>I have also striven to give a fair record of the events with which I
+was connected; and perhaps, as they include a description of a state of
+things that has passed away for ever, they may not be devoid of
+interest. I am one of those old-fashioned Anglo-Indians who still
+believe in personal government, a system by which we gained India,
+solidified our rule, and made ourselves fairly acceptable to the people
+whom we govern. I believe the machine-like <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e214" href="#xd20e214" name=
+"xd20e214">viii</a>]</span>system which we have introduced and are
+endeavouring to force into every corner of India, till all personal
+influence is killed out, to be ill-adapted to the requirements of these
+Oriental races, and blighting in its effects. Not one native chief has
+adopted it in its integrity, which is in itself a fair argument that it
+is distasteful to the native mind; and we may be assured that if we
+evacuated India to-morrow, personal rule would again make itself felt
+throughout the length and breadth of the land, and grow stronger every
+day. I have always striven to be a reformer, but a reformer building on
+the solid foundations that we already find everywhere in India.
+Wherever you go, if there is a semblance of native rule left, you find
+a system admirably adapted to the needs of the population, though very
+often grown over with abuses. Clear away these abuses, and add a little
+in the way of modern progress, but always building on the foundation
+you find ready to hand, and you have a system acceptable to all.</p>
+<p>We are wonderfully timid in sweeping away real abuses, for fear of
+hurting the feelings of the people; at the same time we weigh them down
+with unnecessary, oppressive, and worrying forms, and deluge the
+country with paper returns, never realising that these cause far more
+annoyance than would be felt at our making some radical change in a
+matter which, after all, affects only a minority. Take, for instance,
+the case of suttee, or widow-burning. It was argued for years that we
+could not put it down without causing a rebellion. What are the facts?
+A governor-general, blessed with moral courage in <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e218" href="#xd20e218" name=
+"xd20e218">ix</a>]</span>a great degree, determined to abolish the
+barbarous custom, and his edict was obeyed without a murmur. So it has
+been in many other cases, and so it will be wherever we have the
+courage to do the right thing. An unpopular tax would cause more real
+dissatisfaction than any interference with bad old customs, only
+adhered to from innate conservatism. The great principle on which to
+act is to do what is right, and what commends itself to common sense,
+and to try and carry the people with you. Do not let us have more
+mystery than is necessary; telling the plain truth is the best course;
+vacillation is fatal; the strongest officer is generally the most
+popular, and is remembered by the people long after he is dead and
+gone.</p>
+<p>Personal rule is doomed, and men born to be personal rulers and a
+blessing to the governed, are now harassed by the authorities till they
+give up in despair, and swim with the stream.</p>
+<p>The machine system did not gain India, and will not keep it for us;
+we must go back to a better system, or be prepared to relax our grasp,
+and give up the grandest work any nation ever undertook&mdash;the
+regeneration of an empire!</p>
+<p>The House of Commons has to answer for much. No Indian
+administration is safe from the interference of theorists. To-day it is
+opium that is attacked by self-righteous individuals, who see in the
+usual, and in most cases harmless, stimulant of millions, a crying
+evil; while they view with apparent complacency the expenditure of
+&pound;120,000,000 per annum on intoxicating liquors in England, and
+long columns in almost every newspaper recording <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e226" href="#xd20e226" name=
+"xd20e226">x</a>]</span>brutal outrages on helpless women and children
+as the result.</p>
+<p>Then the military administration is attacked, and in pursuance of
+another chimera, an iniquitous bill is forced on the Government of
+India calculated to produce results, which will probably sap the
+efficiency of our army at a critical moment. So it goes on, and it is
+hardly to be wondered at that the authorities in India give up
+resistance in sheer disgust, knowing all the while that, as the French
+say, <i>le deluge</i> must come after them.</p>
+<p>It may be said, &ldquo;What has all this to do with Manipur and the
+Naga Hills?&rdquo; Nothing perhaps directly, but indirectly a great
+deal. The system which I decry carries its evil influence everywhere,
+and Manipur has suffered from it. I describe the Naga Hills and Manipur
+as they were in old days. I strove hard for years to hold the floods
+back from this little State and to preserve it intact, while doing all
+I could to introduce reforms. Now the floods have overwhelmed it, and
+if it rises again above them it will not be the Manipur that I knew and
+loved. May it, in spite of my doubts and fears, be a better Manipur.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e235" href="#xd20e235" name=
+"xd20e235">xi</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="toc" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Contents</h2>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">Page</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#intro"><span class=
+"sc">Introduction</span></a> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">xix</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch1"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> I.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Arrival in India&mdash;Hospitable
+friends&mdash;The Lieut.-Governor&mdash;Journey to the Naga
+Hills&mdash;Nigriting&mdash;Golaghat&mdash;A panther
+reminiscence&mdash;Hot springs&mdash;A village
+dance&mdash;Dimapur&mdash;My new abode &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">1</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch2"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> II.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Samagudting&mdash;Unhealthy quarters&mdash;A
+callous widower&mdash;Want of water&mdash;Inhabitants of the Naga
+Hills&mdash;Captain Butler&mdash;Other officials&mdash;Our life in the
+wilds&mdash;A tiger carries off the postman&mdash;An Indian
+forest&mdash;Encouragement &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">12</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch3"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> III.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Historical events connected with Manipur and the
+Naga Hills&mdash;Different tribes&mdash;Their religion&mdash;Food and
+customs &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">22</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch4"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> IV.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Value of keeping a promise&mdash;Episode of
+Sallajee&mdash;Protection given to small villages, and the large one
+defied&mdash;&ldquo;Thorough&rdquo; Government of India&rsquo;s
+views&mdash;A plea for Christian education in the Naga Hills
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">37</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch5"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> V.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Visit Dimapur&mdash;A terrible
+storm&mdash;Cultivation&mdash;Aggression by Konoma&mdash;My
+ultimatum&mdash;Konoma submits&mdash;Birth of a son&mdash;Forest
+flowers&mdash;A fever patient&mdash;Proposed change of
+station&mdash;Leave Naga Hills&mdash;March through the
+forest&mdash;Depredation by tigers&mdash;Calcutta&mdash;Return to
+England &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">45</span>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e307" href="#xd20e307" name=
+"xd20e307">xii</a>]</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch6"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> VI.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Return to India&mdash;Attached to Foreign
+Office&mdash;Imperial assemblage at Delhi&mdash;Almorah&mdash;Appointed
+to Manipur&mdash;Journey to Shillong&mdash;Cherra Poojee&mdash;Colonel
+McCulloch&mdash;Question of ceremony &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">54</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch7"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> VII.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Start for Manipur&mdash;March over the
+hills&mdash;Lovely scenery&mdash;View of the valley&mdash;State
+reception&mdash;The Residency&mdash;Visitors &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">60</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch8"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> VIII.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Visit the Maharajah&mdash;His
+ministers&mdash;Former revolutions&mdash;Thangal Major
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">69</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch9"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> IX.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Manipur&mdash;Early history&mdash;Our connection
+with it&mdash;Ghumbeer Singh&mdash;Burmese war &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">78</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch10"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> X.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of
+him&mdash;Nur Singh and attempt on his life&mdash;McCulloch&mdash;His
+wisdom and generosity&mdash;My establishment&mdash;Settlement of
+frontier dispute &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">88</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch11"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XI.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">My early days in Manipur&mdash;The
+capital&mdash;The inhabitants&mdash;Good qualities of
+Manipuris&mdash;Origin of valley of Manipur&mdash;Expedition to the
+Naga Hills&mdash;Lovely scenery&mdash;Attack on Kongal Tannah by
+Burmese&mdash;Return from Naga Hills&mdash;Visit Kongal Tannah
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">95</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch12"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XII.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Discussions as to new Residency&mdash;Its
+completion&mdash;Annual boat-races&mdash;Kang-joop-kool&mdash;Daily
+work&mdash;Dealings with the Durbar &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">104</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch13"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XIII.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Violent conduct of Prince Koireng&mdash;A
+rebuke&mdash;Service payment&mdash;Advantages of Manipuri
+system&mdash;Customs duties&mdash;Slavery&mdash;Releasing
+slaves&mdash;Chowbas&rsquo; fidelity&mdash;Sepoy&rsquo;s kindness to
+children&mdash;Visit to the Yoma range &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">112</span> <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"xd20e397" href="#xd20e397" name="xd20e397">xiii</a>]</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch4"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XIV.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">An old acquaintance&mdash;Monetary
+crisis&mdash;A cure for breaking crockery&mdash;Rumour of human
+sacrifices&mdash;Improved postal
+system&mdash;Apricots&mdash;Mulberries&mdash;A snake story&mdash;Search
+after treasure&mdash;Another snake story&mdash;Visit to
+Calcutta&mdash;Athletics&mdash;Ball practice&mdash;A near shave
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">122</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch15"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XV.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Spring in Manipur&mdash;Visit
+Kombang&mdash;Manipuri orderlies&mdash;Parade of the Maharajah&rsquo;s
+Guards&mdash;Birth of a daughter&mdash;An evening walk in the
+capital&mdash;Polo&mdash;Visit to Cachar &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">131</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch16"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XVI.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Punishment of female criminals&mdash;A man saved
+from execution&mdash;A Kuki executed&mdash;Old customs
+abolished&mdash;Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh&mdash;The Manipuri
+army&mdash;Effort to re-organise Manipur Levy&mdash;System of
+rewards&mdash;&ldquo;Nothing for nothing&rdquo;&mdash;An English
+school&mdash;Hindoo festivals&mdash;Rainbows&mdash;View from
+Kang-joop-kool &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">138</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch17"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XVII.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Mr. Damant and the Naga Hills&mdash;Rumours on
+which I act&mdash;News of revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant&rsquo;s
+murder&mdash;Maharajah&rsquo;s loyalty&mdash;March to the relief of
+Kohima&mdash;Relief of Kohima&mdash;Incidents of siege&mdash;Heroism of
+ladies&mdash;A noble defence &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">147</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch18"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XVIII.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Restoring order and confidence&mdash;Arrival of
+Major Evans&mdash;Arrival of Major Williamson&mdash;Keeping open
+communication&mdash;Attack on Phesama&mdash;Visit to
+Manipur&mdash;General Nation arrives&mdash;Join him at
+Suchema&mdash;Prepare to attack Konoma&mdash;Assault of Konoma
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">161</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch19"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XIX.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Konoma evacuated&mdash;Journey to Suchema for
+provisions and ammunition, and return&mdash;We march to Suchema with
+General&mdash;Visit Manipur&mdash;Very ill&mdash;Meet Sir Steuart
+Bayley in Cachar&mdash;His visit to Manipur&mdash;Grand
+reception&mdash;Star of India&mdash;Chussad attack on
+Chingsow&mdash;March to Kohima and back&mdash;Reflections on
+Maharajah&rsquo;s services&mdash;Naga Hills campaign overshadowed by
+Afghan war &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">175</span>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e465" href="#xd20e465" name=
+"xd20e465">xiv</a>]</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch20"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XX.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad
+outrage&mdash;Interesting country&mdash;Rhododendrons&mdash;Splendid
+forest&mdash;Chingsow and the murders&mdash;Chattik&mdash;March back
+across the hills &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">182</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch21"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXI.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Saving a criminal from execution&mdash;Konoma
+men visit me&mdash;A terrible earthquake&mdash;Destruction wrought in
+the capital&mdash;Illness of the Maharajah&mdash;Question as to the
+succession&mdash;Arrival of the Queen&rsquo;s warrant&mdash;Reception
+by the Maharajah&mdash;The Burmese question &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">190</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch22"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXII.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">March to Mao and improvement of the
+road&mdash;Lieutenant Raban&mdash;Constant troubles with
+Burmah&mdash;Visit to Mr. Elliott at Kohima&mdash;A tiger hunt made
+easy&mdash;A perilous adventure&mdash;Rose bushes&mdash;Brutal conduct
+of Prince Koireng&mdash;We leave Manipur for England
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">198</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch23"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXIII.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Return to Manipur&mdash;Revolution in my
+absence&mdash;Arrangements for boundary&mdash;Survey and
+settlement&mdash;Start for Kongal&mdash;Burmese will not act&mdash;We
+settle boundary&mdash;Report to Government&mdash;Return to England
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">208</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch24"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXIV.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Return to India&mdash;Visit to
+Shillong&mdash;Manipur again&mdash;Cordial reception&mdash;Trouble with
+Thangal Major&mdash;New arts introduced &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">216</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch25"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXV.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">A friend in need&mdash;Tour round the
+valley&mdash;Meet the Chief Commissioner&mdash;March to
+Cachar&mdash;Tour through the Tankhool country&mdash;Metomi
+Saram&eacute;ttie&mdash;Somrah&mdash;Terrace cultivators&mdash;A
+dislocation&mdash;Old quarters at Kongal Tannah&mdash;Return to the
+valley&mdash;A sad parting &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">223</span> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e533" href=
+"#xd20e533" name="xd20e533">xv</a>]</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch26"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXVI.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">More trouble with Thangal
+Major&mdash;Tit-for-tat&mdash;Visit to the Kubo valley&mdash;A new Aya
+Pooiel&mdash;Journey to Shillong&mdash;War is declared&mdash;A message
+to Kendat to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation agents&mdash;Anxiety as to
+their fate&mdash;March to Mao &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">236</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch27"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXVII.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">News from Kendat&mdash;Mr. Morgan and his people
+safe&mdash;I determine to march to Moreh Tannah&mdash;March to
+Kendat&mdash;Arrive in time to save the Bombay-Burmah Corporation
+Agents&mdash;Visit of the Woon&mdash;Visit to the Woon
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">244</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch28"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXVIII.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">People fairly
+friendly&mdash;Crucifixion&mdash;Carelessness of Manipuris&mdash;I
+cross the Chindwin&mdash;Recross the Chindwin&mdash;Collect
+provisions&mdash;Erect stockades and fortify our position&mdash;Revolt
+at Kendat&mdash;We assume the offensive&mdash;Capture boats and small
+stockades&mdash;Revolt put down&mdash;Woon and Ruckstuhl
+rescued&mdash;Steamers arrive and leave &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">251</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch29"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXIX.</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Mischief done by departure of
+steamers&mdash;Determine to establish the Woon at Tamu&mdash;The
+country quieting down&mdash;Recovery of mails&mdash;Letter from the
+Viceroy&mdash;Arrive at Manipur&mdash;Bad news&mdash;I return to
+Tamu&mdash;Night march to Pot-th&acirc;&mdash;An
+engagement&mdash;Wounded&mdash;Return to
+Manipur&mdash;Farewell&mdash;Leave for England &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">260</span></p>
+<p class="toc&lt;hi rend=sc&gt;Chapter&lt;/hi&gt;"><a href=
+"#ch30"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXX.</a></p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><span class="sc">Conclusion.</span></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">The events of 1890&ndash;1
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">271</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#index"><span class=
+"sc">Index</span></a> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">284</span> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e602" href=
+"#xd20e602" name="xd20e602">xix</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="intro" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Introductory Memoir.</h2>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">These experiences were written in brief intervals of
+leisure, during the last few months of the author&rsquo;s busy life,
+which was brought to a sudden close before they were finally revised.
+Only last March when his nearest relations met at Fulford Hall to take
+leave of the eldest son of the house, before he sailed for India, the
+manuscript was still incomplete, and Sir James read some part of it
+aloud. His health had suffered greatly from over-fatigue in the
+unhealthy parts of India, in which his lot had been chiefly cast, but
+it was now quite restored and a prolonged period of usefulness seemed
+before him.</p>
+<p>Improvements on the farms on his estate, a church within reach of
+his cottagers, to be built as a memorial to his late wife, and the hope
+of being once more employed abroad, probably as a colonial governor,
+were all plans for the immediate future, while the present was occupied
+with the magisterial and other business (including lectures on history
+in village institutes), which fill up so much of an English country
+gentleman&rsquo;s life. He had saved nothing in India. What the
+Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal wrote in 1872 of his early work at
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e610" href="#xd20e610" name=
+"xd20e610">xx</a>]</span>Keonjhur, applied to everything else he
+subsequently undertook: &ldquo;Captain Johnstone&rsquo;s schools,
+twenty in number, continue to flourish, attracting an average
+attendance of 665 children. Captain Johnstone&rsquo;s efforts to
+improve the crops and cattle of Keonjhur have before been remarked by
+the Lieutenant-Governor. His sacrifices for this end and for his charge
+generally, are, His Honour believes, almost unique.&rdquo;<a class=
+"noteref" id="xd20e612src" href="#xd20e612" name="xd20e612src">1</a>
+But in 1881 by the death of his late father&rsquo;s elder brother, he
+inherited the Fulford estate on the boundaries of Worcestershire and
+Warwickshire, as well as Dunsley Manor in Staffordshire. The old Hall
+at Fulford, a strongly built, black and white, half-timbered erection
+of some centuries back, had been pulled down a few years before, and
+Sir James built the present house close to the old site. It was here
+that he was brought back in a dying state on June 13th, 1895, about 10
+<span class="sc">A.M.</span>, after riding out of the grounds only ten
+minutes before, full of life and energy. No one witnessed what
+occurred; he was a splendid horseman, but there was evidence that the
+horse, always inclined to be restive, had taken fright on passing a
+cottager&rsquo;s gate and tried to turn back, and that, as its
+master&rsquo;s whip was still firmly grasped in his hand, there had
+been a struggle.</p>
+<p>He was engaged to assist the next day at the annual meeting of the
+Conservative and Unionist Association at Stratford-on-Avon. The Marquis
+of Hertford, who presided, when announcing the catastrophe in very
+feeling terms, spoke of the excellent work that Sir James Johnstone had
+done for <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e620" href="#xd20e620" name=
+"xd20e620">xxi</a>]</span>the Unionist cause in Warwickshire. At
+Wythall Church (of which he was warden) the Vicar alluded, the
+following Sunday, to &ldquo;the striking example he had set of a devout
+and attentive worshipper.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>A retired official who had been acquainted with him in India for
+over thirty years, wrote on the same occasion to Captain Charles
+Johnstone, R.N.: &ldquo;Your brother was a type of character not at all
+common, high-principled, fearless, just, with an overwhelming sense of
+duty, and restless spirit of adventure. It is by characters of his
+type, that our great empire has been created, and it is only if such
+types continue that we may look forward and hope that it will be
+maintained and extended.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Although the family from which Sir James Johnstone sprang is of
+Scottish origin, his own branch of it had lived in Worcestershire and
+Warwickshire for nearly a century and a half. &ldquo;It has taken a
+prominent part in the social and public life of the Midlands, and has
+produced several eminent physicians.&rdquo;<a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e626src" href="#xd20e626" name="xd20e626src">2</a> He was the
+eleventh in direct male descent from William Johnstone of Graitney, who
+received a charter of the barony of Newbie for &ldquo;distinguished
+services&rdquo; to the Scottish crown in 1541. A remnant of the old
+Scottish estates was inherited by his great-grandfather, Dr. James
+Johnstone, who died at Worcester in 1802, and who, being the fourth son
+of his parents, had left Annandale at the age of twenty-one to settle
+in Worcestershire as a physician, but who always kept up his relations
+with Scotland, and meant to return there in his old age. His anxiety to
+secure this estate&mdash;Galabank&mdash;in the male <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e631" href="#xd20e631" name=
+"xd20e631">xxii</a>]</span>line, really defeated his purpose; for he
+bequeathed it to his then unmarried younger son, the late Dr. John
+Johnstone, F.R.S., whose daughter now possesses it, to the exclusion of
+his elder sons who seemed likely to leave nothing but daughters. One of
+these elder sons was Sir James&rsquo;s grandfather, the late Dr. Edward
+Johnstone of Edgbaston Hall, who had married the heiress of Fulford,
+but was left a widower in 1800. Dr. Edward Johnstone was remarried in
+1802 to Miss Pearson of Tettenhall, and of their two sons, the younger,
+James, born in 1806, practised for many years as a physician, and was
+President of the British Medical Association when it met in Birmingham
+in 1856. His eldest son, the subject of this notice, was born in a
+house now pulled down in the Old Square, Birmingham, on February 9th,
+1841. Brought up in the midst of the large family of brothers and
+sisters, whose childhood was passed between their home in the Old
+Square and their grandfather&rsquo;s residence at Edgbaston Hall, where
+they spent the summer and autumn: he used also to look back with
+particular pleasure on his visits to his maternal grandfather&rsquo;s
+country house, where he first mounted a pony. His mother was his
+instructor, except occasional lessons from the Rev. T. Price, till at
+the age of nine he entered King Edward&rsquo;s Classical School, of
+which his father was a governor. The head master at that time (1850),
+was the Rev. (now Archdeacon) E. H. Gifford, D.D., and in the school
+list for 1852, Johnstone senior is placed next in the same class to
+Mackenzie (now Sir Alex.), the present Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e633" href="#xd20e633" name=
+"xd20e633">xxiii</a>]</span></p>
+<p>In 1855, young James Johnstone went to a military college in Paris,
+which was swept away before 1870, with a great part of the older
+portion of the city. After a year and a half in Paris he was
+transferred to the Royal Naval and Military Academy, Gosport, and a few
+months later qualified for one of the last cadetships given under the
+old East India Company. Without delay he proceeded to India, which was
+at that period distracted by the Indian Mutiny, so that his regiment
+the 68th Bengal Native Infantry, consisted only of officers attached to
+different European regiments, or acting in a civil capacity. With the
+73rd (Queen&rsquo;s Regiment) he marched through the country, and was
+actively employed in the suppression of the insurgents, after which he
+was stationed for some time in Assam where he also saw active service.
+There, in 1862, he met with the accident he alludes to on pp. 3 and 20.
+It came in the course of his duty, as the population of a village which
+had been disarmed had sent to the nearest military post to ask for
+assistance against a tiger (panther), causing destruction in the
+neighbourhood; but he was very much hurt, and the weakening effects of
+this accident, seem to have predisposed him to attacks of the malaria
+fever of the district, from which he frequently suffered
+afterwards.</p>
+<p>His next post was at Keonjhur, where there had been an outbreak
+against the Rajah by some of the hill-tribes and the chief insurgent
+had been executed. Lieutenant Johnstone was appointed special assistant
+to the superintendent of the Tributary Mehals at Cuttack, in whose
+official district Keonjhur lies. The <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"xd20e638" href="#xd20e638" name=
+"xd20e638">xxiv</a>]</span>Superintendent wrote to the
+Lieutenant-Governor (Sir William Grey) of Bengal in 1869:
+&ldquo;Captain Johnstone has acquired their full confidence, and hopes
+very shortly to be able to dispense with the greater part of the
+Special Police Force posted at Keonjhur. He appears to take very great
+interest in his work, and is sanguine of success.&rdquo; The same
+official when enclosing Captain Johnstone&rsquo;s first report, wrote:
+&ldquo;It contains much interesting matter regarding the people, and
+shows that he has taken great pains in bringing them into the present
+peaceable and apparently loyal condition,&rdquo; and a little further
+on, when describing an interview he had with the Rajah: &ldquo;From the
+manner in which he spoke of Captain Johnstone, I was exceedingly glad
+to find that the most good feeling exists between them.&rdquo; He also
+adds, apropos of a recommendation that the Government should pay half
+the expense of the special commission instead of charging it all on the
+native state: &ldquo;Nearly one half of Captain Johnstone&rsquo;s time
+has been occupied in Khedda (catching wild elephants) operations, which
+have been successful and profitable to Government, and totally
+unconnected with that officer&rsquo;s duty in Keonjhur.&rdquo;<a class=
+"noteref" id="xd20e640src" href="#xd20e640" name=
+"xd20e640src">3</a></p>
+<p>A year later the superintendent (T. E. Ravenshaw, Esq.) reports:
+&ldquo;Captain Johnstone, with his usual liberality and tact, has
+clothed two thousand naked savages, and has succeeded in inducing them
+to wear the garments;&rdquo; and again, &ldquo;Captain
+Johnstone&rsquo;s success in establishing schools has been most marked,
+and there are now nine hundred children receiving a rudimentary
+education.... Captain Johnstone <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e645"
+href="#xd20e645" name="xd20e645">xxv</a>]</span>has very correctly
+estimated the political importance of education and enlightenment among
+the hill people, and it is evident that he has worked most judiciously
+and successfully in this direction.&rdquo; And again: &ldquo;In the
+matter of improvement of breed of cattle, Captain Johnstone has, at his
+own expense, formed a valuable herd of sixty cows and several young
+bulls ready to extend the experiment.... Captain Johnstone&rsquo;s
+experiments on rice and flax cultivation have been very
+successful&rdquo; (two years later this is attributed to his having
+superintended them himself). The official report sums up, &ldquo;Of
+Captain Johnstone I cannot speak too highly; his management has been
+efficient, and he has exercised careful and constant supervision over
+the Rajah and his estate, in a manner which has resulted in material
+improvement to both.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Subsequently, when Captain Johnstone was on leave in England, the
+Keonjhur despatches show that he sent directions that the increase of
+his herd of cattle should be distributed gratis among the natives. They
+were at first afraid to accept them, hardly believing in the gift.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Keonjhur,&rdquo; says the Government report of India for
+1870&ndash;1, &ldquo;continues under the able administration of Captain
+Johnstone, who, it will be remembered, was mainly instrumental in
+restoring the country to quiet three years ago.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Captain Johnstone was too good a classic not to remember the Roman
+method of conquering and subduing a province; and as far as funds would
+permit, he opened out roads and cleared away jungle. But he suffered
+again from the malaria so prevalent <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"xd20e654" href="#xd20e654" name="xd20e654">xxvi</a>]</span>in the
+forest districts of India, and took three months&rsquo; furlough in
+1871, which meant just one month in England. Although he had lost his
+father in May, 1869, and his absence from home that year gave him some
+extra legal expense, he would not quit his work till he could leave it
+in a satisfactory state; yet the Lieut.-Governor of Bengal (Sir George
+Campbell) twice referred to this furlough as being &ldquo;most
+unfortunate,&rdquo; particularly as it had to be repeated within a few
+months. The superintendent wrote from Cuttack in his yearly report to
+the Lieut.-Governor: &ldquo;Captain Johnstone&rsquo;s serious and
+alarming illness necessitated his taking sick leave to England in
+August, 1871. He had only a short time previously returned from
+furlough, and with health half restored, over-tasked his strength in
+carrying out elephant Khedda work in the deadly jungles of
+Moburdhunj.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>In the spring of 1872, Captain Johnstone was married to Emma Mary
+Lloyd, with whose family his own had a hereditary friendship of three
+generations. Her father was at that time M.P. for Plymouth, and living
+at Moor Hall in Warwickshire. Their first child, James, died of
+bronchitis when six months old, and they returned to India a short time
+afterwards, at which point the experiences begin. Their second child,
+Richard, was born at Samagudting, and is now a junior officer in the
+battalion of the 60th King&rsquo;s Own Royal Rifles, quartered in
+India. The third son, Edward, was born at Dunsley Manor, and two
+younger children in Manipur.</p>
+<p>Manipur, to which Colonel Johnstone was appointed <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e660" href="#xd20e660" name=
+"xd20e660">xxvii</a>]</span>in 1877, was called by one of the Indian
+secretaries the Cinderella among political agencies.
+&ldquo;They&rsquo;ll never,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;get a good man to
+take it.&rdquo; &ldquo;Well,&rdquo; was the reply, &ldquo;a good man
+has taken it now.&rdquo; The loneliness, the surrounding savages, and
+the ill-feeling excited by the Kubo valley (which so late as 1852 is
+placed in Manipur, in maps published in Calcutta) having been made over
+to Burmah, were among the reasons of its unpopularity. Colonel
+Johnstone&rsquo;s predecessor, Captain Durand (now Sir Edward) draws a
+very glaring picture in his official report for 1877, of the
+Maharajah&rsquo;s misgovernment; the wretched condition of the people,
+and the most unpleasant position of the Political Agent, whom he
+described as &ldquo;in fact a British officer under Manipur
+surveillance.... He is surrounded by spies.... If the Maharajah is not
+pleased with the Political Agent he cannot get anything&mdash;he is
+ostracised. From bad coarse black atta, which the Maharajah sells him
+as a favour, to the dhoby who washes his clothes, and the Nagas who
+work in his garden, he cannot purchase anything.&rdquo; Yet, well
+knowing all this, Colonel Johnstone readily accepted the post,
+confident that with his great knowledge of Eastern languages, and of
+Eastern customs and modes of thought, he should be able to bring about
+a better state of things, both as regarded the oppressed inhabitants
+and the permanent influence of the representative of the British
+Government. Whether this confidence was justified, the following pages
+will show.</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Editor.</span> <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb1" href="#pb1" name="pb1">1</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e612" href="#xd20e612src" name="xd20e612">1</a></span> Resolution.
+Political Department, No. 87, 1872.</p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e626" href="#xd20e626src" name="xd20e626">2</a></span>
+<i>Birmingham Daily Post</i>, June 15, 1895.</p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e640" href="#xd20e640src" name="xd20e640">3</a></span> Printed
+official reports.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="body">
+<div id="ch1" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="super">My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills.</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Chapter I.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Arrival in India&mdash;Hospitable friends&mdash;The
+Lieutenant-Governor&mdash;Journey to the Naga
+Hills&mdash;Nigriting&mdash;Golaghat&mdash;A Panther
+reminiscence&mdash;Hot springs&mdash;A village
+dance&mdash;Dimapur&mdash;My new abode.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">I left England with my wife on November 13th, 1873,
+and after an uneventful voyage, reached Bombay, December 9th. We
+proceeded at once to Calcutta, where some of my old servants joined me,
+including two bearers, Seewa and Keptie, wild Bhooyas from the Cuttack
+Tributary Mehals, whom I had trained, and who had been with me for
+years in all my wanderings, in that wild territory. Thanks to the
+kindness of my friends the Bernards (now Sir C. and Lady Bernard), we
+spent only a day at an hotel, and remained under their hospitable roof
+till we left Calcutta.</p>
+<p>My old appointment in Keonjhur had been abolished, and I had to wait
+till another was open to me. I had several interviews on the subject
+with the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, Sir G. Campbell. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb2" href="#pb2" name="pb2">2</a>]</span>Finally it
+was decided that I should go to Assam (then about to be made into a
+Chief Commissionership) and act as Political Agent of the Naga Hills,
+while the permanent official&mdash;Captain Butler&mdash;was away in the
+Interior, and subsequently on leave. I knew a large part of the
+district well, as one of the most malarious in India, and when asked if
+I would take the appointment, said, &ldquo;Yes, I have no objection,
+but just hint to the Lieutenant-Governor that unless he wants to kill
+me off, it may be better policy to send me elsewhere, as the Medical
+Board in London said, I must not go to a malarious district, after the
+experience I have had of it in Keonjhur.&rdquo; The Secretary conveyed
+my hint, and when I next saw him, said, &ldquo;The Lieutenant-Governor
+says, that is all stuff and nonsense.&rdquo; Later on Sir G. Campbell
+asked if my wife would go with me. I quietly replied that she would go
+anywhere with me.</p>
+<p>Finally, on December 30th, we left Calcutta, and after a night in
+the train, embarked in one of the I. G. S. N. Co.&rsquo;s steamers at
+Goalundo, for Nigriting on the Burrhampooter, where we had to land for
+the Naga Hills. The steamers of those days, were not like the
+well-appointed mail boats now in use. The voyage was long, the steamers
+uncomfortable, and the company on board anything but desirable. All the
+same, the days passed pleasantly, while we slowly wended our way up the
+mighty river, amid lovely and interesting scenery all new to my wife,
+to whom I pointed out the different historic spots as they came in
+view.</p>
+<p>We halted at Gowhatty for the night, and early in the morning I swam
+across the river for the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb3" href="#pb3"
+name="pb3">3</a>]</span>second time in my life, a distance of about
+three miles, as the current carried me in a slanting direction.</p>
+<p>At last we reached Nigriting, and were landed on a dry sandbank five
+or six miles from the celebrated tea gardens of that name, and the
+nearest habitations. Fortunately, I had brought a tent and all things
+needful for a march; and my servants, well accustomed to camp life,
+soon pitched it and made us comfortable, and my wife was charmed with
+her first experience. We had a message of welcome from Mr. Boyle, of
+Nigriting Factory, and the next day went to his house in canoes, whence
+we set out for Golaghat.</p>
+<p>It was to Nigriting that I was carried for change of air nearly
+twelve years before, when, in April, 1862, I was desperately wounded in
+an encounter with a large panther near Golaghat, where I had been
+stationed. I then lived for a week or so in a grass hut on a high bank,
+and the fresh air made my obstinate wounds begin to heal. Thus it
+happened that all the people knew me well, and I was long remembered by
+the name of &ldquo;Bagh&eacute; Khooah&rdquo; literally the
+&ldquo;tiger eaten,&rdquo; a name which I found was still familiar to
+every one. Loading our things on elephants, and having a pony for my
+wife, and a dandy (hill litter) in case she grew tired, we set off for
+Golaghat, and had a picnic luncheon on the way. How delightful are our
+first experiences of marching in India, even when we have, as in this
+case, to put up with some discomfort; the cool, crisp air in the
+morning; the good appetite that a ten-mile walk or ride gives; the
+feeling that breakfast has been <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb4"
+href="#pb4" name="pb4">4</a>]</span>earned, and finally breakfast
+itself; and such a good one. Where indeed but in India could we have a
+first-rate meal of three or four courses, and every dish hot, with no
+better appliances in the shape of a fireplace, than two or three clods
+of earth? Often have I had a dinner fit for a king, when heavy rain had
+been falling for hours, and there was no shelter for my men, but a tree
+with a sheet thrown over a branch.</p>
+<p>We breakfasted at a place called &ldquo;Char Alle&eacute;&rdquo; and
+the march being long (nearly twenty miles), the sun was low long before
+reaching Golaghat. As we passed some road coolies, I began a
+conversation with the old Tekla (overseer) in charge, and asked him if
+he could get me a few oranges. He said, &ldquo;Oh no, they are all
+over.&rdquo; He then asked me how I came to speak Assamese so well. I
+said, &ldquo;I have been in Assam before.&rdquo; He said, &ldquo;Oh
+yes, there have been many sahibs in my time,&rdquo; and he named
+several; &ldquo;and then long ago there was a &lsquo;Bagh&eacute;
+Khooah&rsquo; sahib, I wonder where he is now?&rdquo; I looked at him
+and said, &ldquo;Ami Bagh&eacute; Khooah&rdquo; (I am the Bagh&eacute;
+Khooah). The old man gazed equally hard at me for a moment and then ran
+in front of me and made a most profound obeisance. Having done this, he
+smilingly said, &ldquo;I think I can find you some oranges after
+all,&rdquo; and at once ran off, and brought me some for which he
+refused to take anything. The good old man walked about a mile farther
+before he wished me good-bye; and my wife and I went on, greatly
+pleased to find that I was so well remembered.</p>
+<p>We did not get to Golaghat till long after dark, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb5" href="#pb5" name="pb5">5</a>]</span>and pitched
+our tent on the site of the lines of my old detachment, which I had
+commanded twelve years before. What a change! Trees that I had
+remembered as small, had grown large, and some that were planted since
+I left, already a fair size.</p>
+<p>In the morning we received a perfect ovation. People who had known
+me before, crowded to see me and pay their respects, many of them
+bringing their children born since I had left. All this was pleasant
+enough and greatly delighted my wife, but we had to proceed on our way,
+and it is always difficult to get one&rsquo;s followers to move from a
+civilised place, where there is a bazaar, into the jungle, and
+henceforth our road lay through jungle, the Nambor forest beginning
+about five miles from Golaghat. At last coolies to carry my wife
+arrived, and I sent her on in her &ldquo;dandy&rdquo; with her ayah,
+charging the bearers to wait for me at a village I well knew, called
+&ldquo;Sipahee Hoikeeah.&rdquo; The men replied, &ldquo;Hoi
+Deota&rdquo; (Yes, deity<a class="noteref" id="xd20e703src" href=
+"#xd20e703" name="xd20e703src">1</a>) and started. The elephants were a
+great difficulty, and it was some hours before I could get off, and
+even then some had not arrived. However, off I started, and hurried on
+to &ldquo;Sipahee Hoikeeah&rdquo; so as not to keep my wife waiting,
+but when I reached the spot, I found to my amazement that the village
+had ceased to exist, having, as I subsequently learned, been abandoned
+for fear of the Nagas. I hurried on in much anxiety, as my wife did not
+speak Hindoostani, and neither ayah nor bearers spoke English. At
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb6" href="#pb6" name=
+"pb6">6</a>]</span>last I caught them up at the Nambor hot springs,
+called by natives the &ldquo;Noonpoong&rdquo; where we were to
+halt.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e714width"><img src="images/p006.jpg" alt=
+"Camping Out." width="720" height="481">
+<p class="figureHead">Camping Out.</p>
+<p class="first">[<i>Page 6.</i></p>
+</div>
+<p>The Noonpoong is situated in a lovely spot amidst fine forest. The
+hot water springs out of the ground, at a temperature of 112 degrees
+and fills a small pool. It is similar in taste to the waters of
+Aix-la-Chapelle, and is highly efficacious in skin diseases, being
+resorted to even for the cure of severe leech bites, which are easily
+obtained from the land leech infesting all the forests of Assam.
+Fortunately some of our cooking things, with chairs and a table
+arrived, also a mattress, but no bed and no tent. We waited till 9
+<span class="sc">P.M.</span>, and finding that no more elephants came
+up, I made up a bed for my wife on the ground under a table, to shelter
+her from the dew, but while sitting by the camp fire for a last warm,
+we heard the noise of an elephant, and saw one emerging from the
+forest. Fortunately he carried the tent which was quickly pitched, and
+we passed a comfortable night.</p>
+<p>The hot springs are not the only attraction of the neighbourhood, as
+about two miles off in the forest, there is a very pretty waterfall,
+not high, but the volume of water is considerable, and it comes down
+with a thundering sound heard for some distance. The natives call it
+the &ldquo;phutta hil,&rdquo; literally &ldquo;rent rock.&rdquo; The
+Nambor forest is noted for its Nahor or Nagessur trees (<i>Mesua
+Ferma</i>) a handsome tree, the heart of which is a fine red wood, very
+hard and very heavy, and quite impervious to the attacks of white ants.
+Europeans call it the iron wood of Assam. It is very plentiful in parts
+of the forest <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb7" href="#pb7" name=
+"pb7">7</a>]</span>between the Noonpoong and Golaghat, and also grows
+in the lowlands of Manipur.</p>
+<p>The next morning we set out for Borpathar, a village with a fine
+sheet of cultivation on the banks of the Dunseree, and took up our
+quarters in the old blockhouse, which had been converted into a
+comfortable rest house. Here again we received a perfect ovation, the
+people, headed by my old friend Hova Ram, now promoted to a Mouzadar,
+coming in a body, with fruit and eggs, etc., to pay their respects. The
+population had sadly diminished since my early days, the people having
+in many cases fled the country for fear of Naga raids.</p>
+<p>The march having been a short one, all our baggage had time to come
+up. In the evening the girls of the village entertained us with one of
+their national dances, a very pretty and interesting sight. After a
+good night&rsquo;s rest we again started, our march lying through the
+noble forest, where buttressed trees formed an arch over the road,
+showing plainly that Gothic architecture was an adaptation from nature.
+I had never marched along the road since it was cleared; but I was
+there in 1862, in pursuit of some Naga raiders, when it would have been
+impassable, but for elephant and rhinoceros tracks. Even then I was
+struck by its great beauty, and now it was a fairly good cold weather
+track.</p>
+<p>We halted at Deo Panee, then at Hurreo Jan, and Nowkatta, and on the
+fourth day reached Dimapur, where we found a comfortable rest house, on
+the banks of a fine tank about two hundred yards square. This, with
+many others near it, spoke of days of civilisation that had long since
+passed away, before <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb8" href="#pb8"
+name="pb8">8</a>]</span>the Naga drove the Cacharee from the hills he
+now inhabits, and from the rich valley of the Dunseree. Near Dimapur we
+passed a Meekir hut built on posts ten or twelve feet high, and with a
+notched log resting against it, at an angle of about seventy degrees by
+way of a staircase, up which a dog ran like a squirrel at our approach.
+The Meekirs occupy some low hill ranges between the Naga hills and the
+Burrhampooter.</p>
+<p>The country round Dimapur is exceedingly rich, and everywhere bears
+the marks of having been thickly populated. It is well supplied with
+artificial square tanks, some much larger than the one already referred
+to, and on the opposite bank of the river we crossed to reach our
+halting place, are the remains of an old fortified city. Mounds
+containing broken pottery made with the wheel, abound, though the
+neighbouring tribes have forgotten its use. At Dimapur, in those days,
+there were three or four Government elephants and a few shops kept by
+&ldquo;Khyahs,&rdquo; an enterprising race of merchants from Western
+India.</p>
+<p>The ruined city is worth describing. It was surrounded originally by
+solid brick walls twelve feet in height and six in thickness, the
+bricks admirably made and burned. The walls enclosed a space seven
+hundred yards square; it was entered by a Gothic archway, and not far
+off had a gap in the wall, said to have been made for cattle to enter
+by. Inside were tanks, some lined with brick walls, and with brick
+steps leading to the water. Though I carefully explored the interior, I
+never saw any other traces of brickwork, except perhaps a platform;
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb9" href="#pb9" name=
+"pb9">9</a>]</span>but I found one or two sacrificial stones, for
+offerings of flowers, water and oil. One corner of the surrounding wall
+had been cut away by the river. The enclosure is covered with forest.
+Near the gateway are some huge monoliths, one eighteen feet in height.
+All are covered with sculpture, and some have deep grooves cut in the
+top, as if to receive beams. It is difficult to conjecture what they
+were brought there for, and how they were transported, as the nearest
+rocks from which they could have been cut, are at least ten miles away.
+If the Assam-Bengal Railway passes near Dimapur as is, I believe,
+arranged, this interesting old city wall will probably be used as a
+quarry for railway purposes, and soon none of it will remain. Alas, for
+Vandalism!</p>
+<p>History tells us little about the origin of Dimapur, but probably it
+was once a centre of Cacharee civilisation, and as the Angami Nagas
+advanced, the city wall was built, so as to afford a place of refuge
+against sudden raids. It is a strange sight to see the relics of a
+forgotten civilisation, in the midst of a pathless forest.</p>
+<p>On our march up, we frequently came upon the windings of the river
+Dunseree. At Nowkatta it runs parallel for a time with the road, and we
+took our evening walk on its dry sandbanks, finding many recent traces
+of tigers and wild elephants. From that time till we finally left the
+hills, the roar of tigers and the trumpeting of elephants were such
+common sounds, that we ceased to pay attention to them, and my wife,
+though naturally timid, became devoted to the wild solitude of our
+life. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb10" href="#pb10" name=
+"pb10">10</a>]</span></p>
+<p>At Dimapur we enjoyed the luxury of fresh milk, which, of course,
+the forest did not supply. The night was delightfully cold, and the
+next morning crisp and invigorating, and we set off at an early hour,
+for our last march into Samagudting.</p>
+<p>For the first eight miles our road was through a level forest
+country, with the exception of a piece of low-lying grass land, and at
+a place called Nichu Guard the ascent of the hill commenced. This
+entrance of the gorge through which the Diphoo Panee river enters the
+low lands is very beautiful, the stream rushing out from the hills over
+a pebbly bottom, and it was a favourite encamping ground for us in our
+later marches. Now, we had not time to halt, so hurried on. The road up
+the hill was in fair condition for men and elephants, but did not admit
+of wheeled traffic, had there been any carts to use. We accomplished
+the ascent, a distance of four miles, in about two hours, obtaining
+several lovely views of the boundless forest, on our way.</p>
+<p>The vegetation on the hill itself had been much injured by the
+abominable practice hillmen have, of clearing a fresh space every two
+or three years, and deserting it for another, when the soil has been
+exhausted. This never gives it time to recover. At last we reached the
+summit, and took possession of the Political Agent&rsquo;s house, a
+large bungalow, built of grass and bamboo, the roof being supported by
+wooden posts, on the highest point of the hill. A glance showed me that
+the posts were nearly eaten through by white ants, and that the first
+high wind would level it with the ground. It had been built
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb11" href="#pb11" name=
+"pb11">11</a>]</span>by a man who never intended to stay, and who only
+wanted it to last his time.</p>
+<p>Later in the day, I took over the charge from Mr. Coombs, who was
+acting till my arrival, and thus became, for the time, chief of the
+district. My staff consisted of Mr. Needham, Assistant Political Agent,
+and Mr. Cooper, in medical charge, the usual office establishment, and
+one hundred and fifty military police. Most of these, together with
+Captain Butler, for whom I was acting, were away in the Interior with a
+survey party. Mr. Coombs left in a day or two, and I then occupied his
+bungalow lower down the hill, and in a more exposed position, so as to
+allow of the larger house being rebuilt. Besides the Government
+establishment, we had a fair-sized Naga village on the hill, and just
+below the Political Agent&rsquo;s house. These people had long been
+friendly to us, and were willing, for a large recompense, to do all
+sorts of odd jobs, being entirely free from the caste prejudices of our
+Hindoo and degenerate Mussulman fellow-subjects. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb12" href="#pb12" name="pb12">12</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e703" href="#xd20e703src" name="xd20e703">1</a></span> One of the
+witnesses at the trial of the Regent and <span class="corr" id=
+"xd20e705" title="Source: Senaputty">Senaputtee</span> of Manipur, in
+1891, stated that Mr. Quinton was partly induced to enter the palace
+from which he never emerged alive, by the Manipuris saying, &ldquo;Are
+you not our deity?&rdquo;&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter II.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Samagudting&mdash;Unhealthy quarters&mdash;A callous
+widower&mdash;Want of water&mdash;Inhabitants of the Naga
+Hills&mdash;Captain Butler&mdash;Other officials&mdash;Our life in the
+wilds&mdash;A tiger carries off the postman&mdash;An Indian
+forest&mdash;Encouragement.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">My first impressions of Samagudting, were anything but
+favourable. It was eminently a &ldquo;make-shift place.&rdquo; It had
+been occupied by us as a small outpost, from time to time, between 1846
+and 1851, but it was never fit for a permanent post of more than
+twenty-five men, as the water supply was bad, there being no springs,
+and only a few water holes which were entirely dependent on the
+uncertain rainfall. A small tank had been constructed, but it was 500
+feet below the summit, so that water was sold at an almost prohibitive
+rate. All articles of food were scarce, dear and bad, wood was
+enormously dear, and to crown all, the place was unhealthy and
+constantly enveloped in fog.</p>
+<p>Samagudting<a class="noteref" id="xd20e775src" href="#xd20e775"
+name="xd20e775src">1</a> ought never to have been occupied, and would
+not have been, had the Government taken ordinary precautions to verify
+the too roseate reports of an officer who wished to see it adopted as
+the headquarters of a new district, as a speedy road <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb13" href="#pb13" name="pb13">13</a>]</span>to
+promotion, and subsequent transfer to a more favoured appointment. The
+report in question which, among other things, mentioned the existence
+of springs of water, that existed only in imagination, having once been
+accepted by the authorities, and a large expenditure incurred, it
+became a very invidious task for future Political Agents to unmask the
+affair, and proclaim the extreme unsuitability of Samagudting for a
+station.</p>
+<p>Many other good and healthy sites were available, and I believe that
+our dealings with the Nagas were greatly retarded, by the adoption of
+such an unsuitable post. As it was, having made our road over the hill,
+it was necessary to climb an ascent of over two thousand feet, and an
+equal descent, before entering the really important portion of the
+Angami Naga country. I at once saw that the right entrance lay by the
+Diphoo Panee Gorge, and I recommended its adoption. I began to make
+this road during the Naga Hills Campaign of 1879&ndash;80, and it has
+since been regularly used.</p>
+<p>Having said all that there was to say against Samagudting, it is
+only fair to mention its good points. First, though never so cold in
+the winter, as the plains, the temperature was never so high in the hot
+and rainy seasons; and when the weather was fine, it was very
+enjoyable. The views from the hill were magnificent. To the south, the
+Burrail range, from which a broad and undulating valley divided us. To
+the west, a long stretch of hills and forests. To the east, the valley
+of the Dunseree, bordered by the Rengma and Lotah Naga hills, a vast
+forest, stretching as far as the eye could reach, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb14" href="#pb14" name="pb14">14</a>]</span>with
+here and there a large patch of high grass land, one of which many
+miles in extent, was the Rengma Putha, a grand elephant catching ground
+in old times, where many a noble elephant became a victim to the
+untiring energy of the Bengali elephant phandaits or noosers, from the
+Morung.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e788src" href="#xd20e788" name=
+"xd20e788src">2</a> To the north, the view extended over a pathless
+forest, the first break being the Doboka Hills. Behind these, a long
+bank of mist showed the line of the Burrhampooter, while on clear days
+in the cold weather, we might see the dark line of the Bhootan Hills,
+with the snowy peaks of the Himalayas towering above them.<a class=
+"noteref" id="xd20e791src" href="#xd20e791" name="xd20e791src">3</a>
+Altogether, it was a sight once seen, never to be forgotten.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e795width"><img src="images/p014.jpg" alt=
+"Samagudting." width="720" height="450">
+<p class="figureHead">Samagudting.</p>
+<p class="first">[<i>Page 14.</i></p>
+</div>
+<p>There was a footpath all round the hill, which, after a little
+alteration of level here and there, and a little repairing, where
+landslips had made it unsafe, was delightful for a morning or evening
+walk or ride. As my wife was fond of botany, she found a subject of
+never-ending interest in the many wild flowers, ferns, and climbing
+plants, and soon grew accustomed to riding along the edge of a dizzy
+precipice.</p>
+<p>Our private establishment consisted of ten or twelve servants in
+all, including a girl of the Kuki tribe, named Bykoout, who assisted
+the ayah; a very small establishment for India. Servants in Assam are
+bad and difficult to keep. Most of mine were imported, but, with the
+exception of my two faithful Bhooyas, Seewa and Keptie, and a
+<i>syce</i> (groom), by name <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb15" href=
+"#pb15" name="pb15">15</a>]</span>Peewa, they were all soon corrupted,
+though some had been with me for years. Seewa once said to me,
+&ldquo;The influence here is so bad, that we too shall be corrupted if
+we stay long.&rdquo; Seewa was quite a character. One day I got a
+letter from one of his relations, asking me to tell him that his wife
+was dead. I remembered her well; it was a love match, and she had run
+away with him. I feared it would be such a blow, that I felt quite
+nervous about telling him, and put it off till the evening, when, with
+a faltering voice, I broke the news as gently as I could. Instead of
+the outburst of grief I had looked for, he quietly asked, &ldquo;What
+did she die of?&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;Fever.&rdquo; He replied,
+&ldquo;Oh, yes, I thought it must be that. Will you write and see that
+all her property is made over to my brother, otherwise some of her
+people may steal it?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The state of things at Samagudting was very discouraging. I resented
+seeing the Government and the establishment being charged famine prices
+for everything, by the Nagas and Khyahs; also the general squalor which
+prevailed, and which I felt need not exist. It was the inheritance of
+the hand-to-mouth system in which everything had been commenced in
+early days. However, my wife set me an example of cheerfulness, and I
+made up my mind to remedy all the evils I could. First, the supply
+system was attacked, and I made arrangements with some old Khyah
+friends at Golaghat, to send up large supplies of rice and other kinds
+of food, and as the season advanced, I encouraged such of the military
+police as could be spared to take up land at Dimapur, and cultivate.
+For ourselves, I bought <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb16" href=
+"#pb16" name="pb16">16</a>]</span>two cows at Borpathar, and
+established them at Nichu Guard, whence my gardener brought up the milk
+every day. In a short time we were more comfortable than could have
+been expected, and there was the additional satisfaction of seeing that
+the arrangements for cheaper food for the establishment proved
+successful. Water was the standing difficulty; we had to depend upon
+the caprice of the Naga water-carriers, and frequently my wife&rsquo;s
+bath, filled ready for the next morning, had to be emptied in the
+evening to provide water for cooking our evening meal! Sometimes I got
+clean water for drinking from the Diphoo Panee, otherwise what we had
+was as if it had been taken from a dirty puddle. The want of water
+prevented our having a garden near our house; we had a few hardy
+flowers, including the shoe-flower&mdash;a kind of
+hibiscus&mdash;roses, and passion-flower. Such vegetable-garden as we
+had was at Nichu Guard, where the soil was good, and water
+plentiful.</p>
+<p>Our house was watertight, and that was the best that could be said
+for it. It was thatched, with walls of split bamboos and strengthened
+by wooden posts; there were no glass windows, and the doors and
+shutters were of split bamboo tied together; the mud floor was also
+covered with thin split bamboos, and had to be swept constantly, as the
+dust worked through. We had one sitting-room, a bed-room, bath-room,
+pantry, and store-room, the latter full of rats. Snakes occasionally
+visited us, and a day or two after we had settled in, a cat rushed in
+while we were at breakfast, jumped on my knee and took away the meat
+from my plate, and bit and scratched <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb17" href="#pb17" name="pb17">17</a>]</span>me when I tried to catch
+her. My dressing-room was the shade of a tree outside, where I bathed
+Anglo-Indian camp fashion, substituting a large hollow bamboo for the
+usual <i>mussuk</i>, or skin of water.</p>
+<p>We arrived at Samagudting on January 23rd, 1874, and by the
+beginning of February felt quite old residents; hill-walking no longer
+tired me, and we had made acquaintance with all the Nagas of the
+village, and of many others, and were on quite friendly terms with
+&ldquo;Jatsol&eacute;,&rdquo; the chief of Samagudting, a shrewd
+far-seeing man, with great force of character.</p>
+<p>I have mentioned the Burrail range, and the valley separating us.
+Besides Samagudting there were two other villages on our side,
+Sitekima, on the opposite bank of the Diphoo Panee Gorge, and
+Tesephima, on outlying spurs of Samagudting. I say Samagudting, as it
+has become the common appellation, but correctly speaking it should be
+Chumookodima.</p>
+<p>On the side of the Burrail facing us, were villages belonging to a
+tribe we call Kutcha Nagas, a race inferior in fighting power to the
+Angamis, but not unlike them in appearance, though of inferior
+physique. These villages were formerly inhabited by Cacharees.<a class=
+"noteref" id="xd20e830src" href="#xd20e830" name=
+"xd20e830src">4</a></p>
+<p>On February 4th, I had a letter from Captain Butler, saying that he
+would be at Kohima in a day or two, and asking me to meet him there. He
+said that three of the police would be a sufficient escort. I
+accordingly took three men, and started on the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb18" href="#pb18" name="pb18">18</a>]</span>6th,
+marching to Piphima twenty-one miles, and the next morning another
+twenty-one into Kohima, two very hard marches. I was glad to renew my
+acquaintance with Butler, whom I had known when he first landed in
+India in 1861, and I was in Fort William, studying for my <span class=
+"corr" id="xd20e840" title="Source: Hindustani">Hindoostani</span>
+examination. He was a fine manly fellow, admirably fitted to conduct an
+expedition, where pluck and perseverance were required. Here, I also
+met Dr. Brown, Political Agent of Manipur, and Captain (now Colonel)
+Badgley and Lieutenant (now Colonel C.B.) Woodthorpe, R.E., of the
+survey, also Lieutenant (now Major V.C.) Ridgeway, 44th N.I.<a id=
+"xd20e843" name="xd20e843"></a>, I spent a pleasant evening, discussing
+various subjects with Captain Butler, and early on the 8th started on
+my return journey.</p>
+<p>Captain Butler had done the whole forty-two miles into Samagudting
+in one day, and I determined to attempt it, and succeeded, though the
+last 2000 feet of ascent to my house was rather hard, tired as I was.
+My wife did not expect me, but I had arranged to fire three shots from
+my rifle as a signal, if I arrived at any time by night; this I did
+about 500 feet below my house, and I at once saw lanterns appear far
+above me, and in a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes, I was at my
+door. The sound of firing at 9 P.M. created quite a sensation among the
+weak-nerved ones on the hill, but it was good practice for the sentries
+to be kept on the alert. Ever after, three shots from a rifle or a
+revolver, were always my signal when I neared home, and often in after
+years were they heard in the dead of night, when I was thought to be
+miles away. My wife used to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb19" href=
+"#pb19" name="pb19">19</a>]</span>say that it kept the people in good
+order, never knowing when to expect me. I think it did.</p>
+<p>Life was never monotonous. I took long walks, after our morning walk
+round the hill, to inspect roads and bridges&mdash;a very important
+work. Then I attended Cutcherry (the court of justice) and heard cases,
+often with a loaded revolver in my hand, in case of any wild savage
+attempting to dispute my authority; then I finished off revenue work,
+of which there was little, and went home, had a cup of tea, visited
+hospitals and gaol, if I had not already done so; and afterwards went
+for an evening walk with my wife, round the hill or through the
+village.</p>
+<p>Sometimes duty took me to the plains, and we had a most delightful
+march to the Nambor hot springs, when I arranged to have a rest house
+built at Nowkatta, between Dimapur and Hurreo Jan. We reached the last
+place, just after a dreadful catastrophe had occurred. The rest house
+was raised on posts, six feet above the ground. One night when the man
+carrying the dak (post) had arrived from Borpathar, he hung up the
+letter bag <i>under the house</i> on a peg, and having had his evening
+meal, retired to rest in the house with one or two other travellers.
+Suddenly a huge tiger rushed up the steps, sprang through the open
+door, and seizing one of the sleepers, bounded off into the forest with
+him. One of my police who was there snatched up his rifle, pursued the
+tiger and fired, making him drop the man, but life was extinct, and
+when we arrived, there was a huge bloodstain on the floor, at least a
+yard long. Strange to say, the letter bag was on one occasion carried
+off by a tiger, but afterwards <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb20"
+href="#pb20" name="pb20">20</a>]</span>recovered, uninjured save by
+tooth marks. The policeman was promoted for his gallantry.</p>
+<p>The day after leaving Hurreo Jan, we met a party of Rengma Nagas
+coming to see me, with some little presents. They were the men who
+helped to kill the panther, that wounded me in 1862,<a class="noteref"
+id="xd20e860src" href="#xd20e860" name="xd20e860src">5</a> and they
+brought with them the son of one of their number, who was killed by the
+infuriated beast, a fine lad of fifteen; needless to say, that I
+rewarded these friendly people, whom I had not seen for twelve years.
+We halted a day or two at the springs, as I had to visit Golaghat on
+business, and unfortunately missed seeing a herd of wild elephants
+caught, a sight I had wished my wife to see. She did see the stockade,
+but the elephants had been already taken out. I hope farther on to
+describe an elephant drive.</p>
+<p>I do not know a more agreeable place to halt at than the hot springs
+in former days. In cold weather before the mosquitoes had arrived it
+was perfect rest. A little opening in the tall dark forest, in the
+centre some scrub jungle, including fragrant wild lemons and citrons,
+with the pool in the midst; a babbling stream flowed all round the
+opening, on the other side of which was a high bank. The <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb21" href="#pb21" name="pb21">21</a>]</span>bathing
+was delightful, and could be made quite private for ladies, by means of
+a cloth enclosure, well known to the Assamese by the name of
+&rdquo;&Acirc;r Kap&ocirc;r.&rdquo; Then the occasional weird cry of
+the <span class="corr" id="xd20e869" title=
+"Source: hoo-cook">hoolook</span> ape, and the gambols of numerous
+monkeys in the tall trees on the high bank, gave plenty of interest to
+the scene, had the general aspect of the place failed in its
+attractions.</p>
+<p>Soon after our return to headquarters, the survey party arrived from
+the interior of the hills, and after a few days&rsquo; rest, departed
+for their summer quarters. Captain Butler then started for England, and
+Mr. Needham came in to Samagudting.</p>
+<p>Thus left in charge for a considerable period, I felt justified in
+doing more than I should have done, had my stay only been of a
+temporary nature, and I went most thoroughly into all questions
+connected with the hills and their administration. My long experience
+in charge of a native state full of wild hill tribes, and my personal
+knowledge of many of the Naga and other wild tribes of Assam (a
+knowledge that went back as far as 1860), were a great help to me, as I
+was consequently not new to the work. The eastern frontier had always
+been to my mind the most interesting field of work in India, and now it
+was for me to learn all I could. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb22"
+href="#pb22" name="pb22">22</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e775" href="#xd20e775src" name="xd20e775">1</a></span> The Assam
+Administration Report of 1877&ndash;8 writes of it as
+&ldquo;notoriously unhealthy, and it had long been proposed to move the
+troops to a higher and less feverish spot.&rdquo;&mdash;<span class=
+"sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e788" href="#xd20e788src" name="xd20e788">2</a></span> When I
+first went to Assam almost all elephant-catching was done by
+noosing.</p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e791" href="#xd20e791src" name="xd20e791">3</a></span> The country
+bordering on the Bhootan Dooars in the Ringpore district.</p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e830" href="#xd20e830src" name="xd20e830">4</a></span> See
+subsequent sketch of Naga tribes in <a href="#ch3">Chapter III</a>.</p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e860" href="#xd20e860src" name="xd20e860">5</a></span> Sir James
+(then Lieut.) Johnstone headed a party to clear an Assamese village
+from a panther that had killed several natives and was terrifying the
+district. It retreated into a house which he ordered to be pulled down,
+and as his men were thus engaged it sprang from a window on to his
+shoulder. With his other arm&mdash;the left&mdash;he fired at it behind
+his back and wounded it sufficiently to make it loose its hold, and
+rush off into the jungle, where it was killed in the course of the
+afternoon. His arm was terribly injured, and he always considered that
+he owed complete recovery of the use of it to the kindness and skill of
+an English medical friend who came from a great distance to attend him.
+Every one else who was wounded by the same panther
+died.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch3" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter III.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Historical events connected with Manipur and the Naga
+Hills&mdash;Different tribes&mdash;Their religion&mdash;Food and
+customs.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Shortly after my arrival at Samagudting, I received a
+cheering letter, just when I most needed it, from my old friend Wynne,
+then Acting Foreign Secretary, saying, &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t be too
+disappointed at not receiving a better appointment than the Naga Hills.
+You will have plenty of good work to do, and you will increase your
+already very extensive knowledge of wild tribes.&rdquo; It was the last
+letter I ever received from him, as cholera quickly carried him off,
+and I lost in him one of the kindest friends I ever had, one who had
+constantly interested himself in my work, and given me advice. Such a
+friend would have been invaluable now. Our position in the Naga
+<span class="corr" id="xd20e885" title="Source: Nills">Hills</span> was
+an anxious one, and can only be properly realised by knowing the course
+of previous events.</p>
+<p>Our first acquaintance with the Nagas practically began in 1832,
+when Captain Jenkins and Lieutenant Pemberton escorted by Rajah
+Ghumbeer Singh&rsquo;s Manipur troops, forced a passage through the
+hills with a view to ascertaining if there were a practicable route
+into Assam. They came <i>vi&acirc;</i> Paptongmai and Samagudting to
+Mohong Deejood. There is every <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb23"
+href="#pb23" name="pb23">23</a>]</span>reason to believe that the
+Manipuris in former days did penetrate into the Naga Hills, and exacted
+tribute when they felt strong enough to do so. All the villages have
+Manipur names in addition to their own. But during the period of her
+decadence, just before and during the Burmese War of 1819&ndash;25, any
+influence Manipur may have possessed fell into abeyance. At that time
+it was re-asserted, and Ghumbeer Singh reduced several villages to
+submission, including the largest of all, Kohima, at which place he
+stood upon a stone and had his footprints sculptured on it, in token of
+conquest. This was set up in a prominent position, together with an
+upright stone bearing carved figures and an inscription.</p>
+<p>The Nagas greatly respected this stone and cleaned it from time to
+time. They opened a large trade with Manipur, and whenever a Manipuri
+visited a Naga village he was treated as an honoured guest, at a time
+when a British subject could not venture into the interior without risk
+of being murdered.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e898width"><img src="images/p023.jpg" alt=
+"Kohima Stone." width="513" height="684">
+<p class="figureHead">Kohima Stone.</p>
+<p class="first">[<i>Page 23.</i></p>
+</div>
+<p>Even up to the Naga Hills campaign of 1879&ndash;80, the Nagas
+regarded Manipur as the greater power of the two, because her conduct
+was consistent; if she threatened, she acted. One British subject after
+another might be murdered with impunity, but woe betide the village
+that murdered a subject of Manipur. A force of Manipuris was instantly
+despatched, the village was attacked, destroyed, and ample compensation
+exacted. The system answered well for Manipur; many of the Nagas began
+to speak Manipuri, and several villages paid an annual tribute. Still,
+up to 1851, we considered that we <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb24"
+href="#pb24" name="pb24">24</a>]</span>had some shadowy claim to the
+hills, though we never openly asserted it.</p>
+<p>I may as well give a short account of the different tribes
+inhabiting the Naga Hills district when I took charge. The oldest
+were&mdash;</p>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">Cacharees.</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Their origin is obscure. They are first met with in
+the north-east portion of the Assam Valley between the Muttuk country
+and Sudya. Round the last in the vast forests, there are numerous ruins
+ascribed by the people to the Cacharee Rajahs, built of substantial
+brickwork. I have not seen any sculptured stonework, but it may exist.
+The traditions give no clue to their original home, which was probably
+in Thibet. From the neighbourhood of Sudya they penetrated down the
+valley, leaving buildings and remnants of their tribes here and there,
+notably in the Durrung district. The main body were, for a time settled
+in the <span class="corr" id="xd20e917" title=
+"Source: nighbourhood">neighbourhood</span> of Dimapur, and the country
+lying between it and Doboka, the Cachar district, but when they arrived
+or how long they stayed we have no means of ascertaining. They occupied
+the first two or three ranges of the Burrails and stoutly contested
+possession with the Naga invaders, and after they had been dispossessed
+made a gallant attempt to retrieve their affairs by an attack on
+Sephema. They entered the hills by the Diphoo gorge and constructed a
+paved road up to the neighbourhood of Sephema where they would probably
+have succeeded in their operations, but that the Sephema Nagas, skilful
+then as <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb25" href="#pb25" name=
+"pb25">25</a>]</span>now, in the use of poison, poisoned the waters and
+destroyed a large portion of the invaders; the rest retreated to
+Dimapur, and eventually left the neighbourhood and settled in Cachar,
+to which they gave their name. There are still a good many Cacharees on
+the banks of the Kopiti, in the neighbourhood of Mohung-dee-jood. They
+are a fine hardy race, and in my time the Naga Hills police was largely
+recruited from them. Under Captain Butler they did good service, and
+would have gone anywhere when led by him.<a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e922src" href="#xd20e922" name="xd20e922src">1</a> The Cacharees
+were governed formerly by a race of despotic chiefs.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">Kukis.</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The Kukis are a wandering race consisting of several
+tribes who have long been working up from the South. They were first
+heard of as Kukis, in Manipur, between 1830 and 1840; though tribes of
+the same race had long been subject to the Rajah of Manipur. The new
+immigrants began to cause anxiety about the year 1845, and soon poured
+into the hill tracts of Manipur in such numbers, as to drive away many
+of the older inhabitants. Fortunately, the political agent (at this
+time Lieutenant afterwards Colonel McCulloch)<a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e932src" href="#xd20e932" name="xd20e932src">2</a> was a man well
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb26" href="#pb26" name=
+"pb26">26</a>]</span>able to cope with the situation. Cool and
+resolute, he at once realised and faced the difficulty. Manipur in
+those days, owing to intestine quarrels, could have done nothing, and
+the Rajah Nur Singh gladly handed over the management of the new
+arrivals to him.</p>
+<p>Seeing that the Kukis had been driven north by kindred but more
+powerful tribes, and that their first object was to secure land for
+cultivation; McCulloch, as they arrived, settled them down, allotting
+to them lands in different places according to their numbers, and where
+their presence would be useful on exposed frontiers. He advanced them
+large sums from his own pocket, assigning different duties to each
+chief&rsquo;s followers. Some were made into irregular troops, others
+were told off to carry loads according to the customs of the state.
+Thus in time many thousands of fierce Kukis were settled down as
+peaceful subjects of Manipur, and Colonel McCulloch retained supreme
+control over them to the last. So great was his influence, that he had
+only to send round his silver mounted dao (Burmese sword) as a kind of
+fiery cross, when all able-bodied men at once assembled at his
+summons.</p>
+<p>Colonel McCulloch&rsquo;s policy of planting Kuki settlements on
+exposed frontiers, induced the Government of Bengal to try a similar
+experiment, and a large colony of Kukis were settled in 1855 in the
+neighbourhood of Langting, to act as a barrier for North Cachar against
+the raids of the Angami Nagas. The <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb27"
+href="#pb27" name="pb27">27</a>]</span>experiment answered well to a
+certain extent, and would have answered better, had we been a little
+less timid. The Kukis are strictly monarchical, and their chiefs are
+absolutely despotic, and may murder or sell their subjects into slavery
+without a murmur of dissent. Their original home cannot be correctly
+ascertained, but there seem to be traces of them as far south as the
+Malay peninsula. They are readily distinguishable from the Nagas, and
+are braver men. Their women are often very fair, and wear their hair in
+a long thick plait down the back. The men are mostly copper coloured,
+and have often good features.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">Kutcha Nagas.</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The tribe we call Kutcha Nagas, very much resemble the
+Angamis, though of inferior physique. They are closely allied to the
+Nagas in Manipur, as well as to the Angamis, and probably were pushed
+in front of the latter from the Northern North-East, as the Kukis were
+forced in by the pressure of stronger tribes to their South. They have
+always been less warlike than their powerful neighbours, though they
+could be troublesome at times.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">Angami Nagas.</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">A strong built, hardy, active race, the men averaging
+5 feet 8 inches to 6 feet in height, and the women tall in proportion.
+In colour they vary from a rich brown to a yellowish or light brown.
+They have a manly independent bearing, and are bred up to war from
+their earliest years. While the Kukis <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb28" href="#pb28" name="pb28">28</a>]</span>are monarchists, the
+Nagas are republicans, and their Peumahs, or chiefs, are elected, and
+though they often have great influence, they are in theory, only
+<i>primus inter pares</i>, and are liable at any time to be displaced.
+Practically they often remain in office for years, and are greatly
+respected.</p>
+<p>Where the Angamis came from must be uncertain till the languages of
+our Eastern frontier are scientifically analysed. The late Mr. Damant,
+a man of great talent and powers of research, had a valuable paper
+regarding them in hand, but it perished in the insurrection of 1879.
+The probability is, that they came originally from the south-eastern
+corner of Thibet.</p>
+<p>Some of the Maories of New Zealand reminded me of the Angamis. The
+well-defined nose is a prominent characteristic of the last, as it is
+of some of the inhabitants of Polynesia. The people of
+Samagudting&mdash;that is, the adults in 1874&mdash;told me that they
+had come from the north-east, and were the seventh generation that had
+been there. When they first occupied their village, the site was, they
+said, covered with the bones and tusks of elephants which had come
+there to die.</p>
+<p>Had I lived longer among the Nagas, I should have liked to have made
+deeper researches into their language and past history; as it was, all
+my time was taken up with my active duties, and I had not a moment to
+spare.</p>
+<p>Their dress is a short kilt of black cotton cloth, ornamented, in
+the case of warriors, with rows of cowrie shells. They have handsome
+cloths of dark blue and yellow thrown over their shoulders in cold
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb29" href="#pb29" name=
+"pb29">29</a>]</span>weather. Their arms are spears and heavy short
+swords, called by the Assamese name of <i>dao</i>; helmets and shields
+of wicker work (used chiefly to cover the more vulnerable parts of the
+body) and sometimes clothed with skins of tigers or bears. They have
+also tails of wood decorated with goats&rsquo; hair dyed red. The
+warspears are plain; the ornamental ones are covered with goats&rsquo;
+hair dyed red, and are sometimes used in battle. Their drill is of a
+most complicated style, and requires much practice. An Angami in full
+war paint is a very formidable-looking individual. They are divided
+into many clans. Several clans often inhabit one village, and it
+frequently happened that two clans thus situated were at deadly feud
+with each other.</p>
+<p>Blood feuds were common among all the <span class="corr" id=
+"xd20e984" title="Source: hill tribes">hill-tribes</span>, but the
+system was carried to excess among the Angamis. Life for life was the
+rule, and until each of the opposing parties had lost an equal number,
+peace was impossible, and whenever members of one village met any
+belonging to the other, hostilities were sure to result. Sometimes an
+attempt was made to bring about a reconciliation, but then it
+frequently happened that the number of slain to the credit of each were
+unequal. Mozuma and Sephema might be at war, and Mozuma killed five,
+whereas Sephema had killed only four. Sephema says, &ldquo;I must kill
+one more to make the balance, then I will treat for peace,&rdquo; so
+war continues. Some day Sephema has a chance, but kills two instead of
+the <i>one</i> that was required; this gives her the advantage, and
+Mozuma refuses to treat. So it goes on interminably. The position of a
+small <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb30" href="#pb30" name=
+"pb30">30</a>]</span>village at war with a large one, was often
+deplorable as no one dared to leave the village except under a strong
+escort. I once knew a case of some Sephema men at feud with Mozuma,
+hiring two women of the powerful village of Konoma to escort them along
+the road as thus accompanied no one dare touch them.</p>
+<p>Once at Piphima, when my assistant Mr. Needham was encamped there,
+parties from two hostile villages suddenly met each other and rushed to
+arms. He was equal to the occasion and stopped the combat. I made it a
+criminal offence to fight on our road called the &ldquo;Political
+Path,&rdquo; and it was generally respected as neutral ground.</p>
+<p>No Angami could assume the &ldquo;toga virilis,&rdquo; in this case
+the kilt ornamented with cowrie shells, already described, until he had
+slain an enemy, and in the more powerful villages no girl could marry a
+man unless he was so decorated. The cowrie ornaments were taken off
+when a man was mourning the death of a relation.</p>
+<p>To kill a baby in arms, or a woman, was accounted a greater feat
+than killing a man, as it implied having penetrated to the innermost
+recesses of an enemy&rsquo;s country, whereas a man might be killed
+anywhere by a successful ambush. I knew a man who had killed sixty
+women and children, when on one occasion he happened to come upon them
+after all the men had left the village on a hunting expedition.</p>
+<p>Every Naga who was able to murder an enemy did so, and received
+great commendation for it by all his friends. Later, when I was in
+Manipur, I had a pleasant young fellow as interpreter. He often took my
+boys out for a walk when he had <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb31"
+href="#pb31" name="pb31">31</a>]</span>nothing else to do, and was a
+careful, trustworthy man. Once I asked him how many people he had
+killed (he wore the cowrie kilt, a sure sign he had killed some one). A
+modest blush suffused his face as if he did not like to boast of such a
+good deed, and he mildly said, &ldquo;Two, a woman and a
+girl!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The Angamis when on friendly terms are an agreeable people to deal
+with, polite, courteous, and hospitable. I never knew any one take more
+pains or more successfully not to hurt the susceptibilities of those
+they are talking to, indeed they show a tact and good feeling worthy of
+imitation. My wife and I soon knew all the villagers well, and often
+visited them, when we were always offered beer, and asked to come into
+their verandahs and sit down, and just as we were leaving, our host
+would search the hen&rsquo;s nests to give us a few eggs. The beer we
+never took, but many Europeans like it and find it wholesome. It is
+made of rice and has rather a sharp taste. Their houses are large
+substantial structures built of wood and bamboo thatched with grass,
+and the eaves come low down. Houses with any pretensions always have
+verandahs. Besides the houses, there are granaries, often at a distance
+for fear of fire. The Angamis bury their dead in and about their
+villages, and for a time, decorate them with some of the belongings of
+the deceased. Naturally they strongly object to the graves being
+disturbed, and in making alterations I was careful not to hurt their
+feelings.</p>
+<p>The more powerful villages in the interior of the hills have a large
+area of cultivation on terraces cut out of the hillside, and carefully
+irrigated. Some of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb32" href="#pb32"
+name="pb32">32</a>]</span>the terraces go up the hillsides to a great
+height, and show considerable skill in their formation. On these
+terraces lowland rice is grown and is very productive. Some of the
+smaller outlying villages like Samagudting have only ordinary hill
+cultivation, where upland rice is grown. The terrace land used to be
+greatly valued, and was often sold at prices equal to &pound;22 to
+&pound;25 per acre!</p>
+<p>The Angamis, in common with most hill-tribes that I have come
+across, have a vague indefinite belief in a supreme being, but look on
+him as too great and good to injure them. They believe themselves also
+to be subject to the influence of evil spirits, whom it is their
+constant endeavour to appease by sacrifices. Every misfortune is, as a
+rule, ascribed to evil spirits, and much money is spent on appeasing
+them, the usual way being to offer fowls, of which the head, feet, and
+entrails are offered to the demon, with many incantations. The other
+parts are eaten by the sacrificer.</p>
+<p>All kinds of animals are readily eaten by the Angamis, and those
+dying a natural death are not rejected. Dogs&rsquo; flesh is highly
+esteemed. When a man wants to have a delicate dish, he starves his dog
+for a day to make him unusually voracious, and then cooks a huge dish
+of rice on which he feeds the hungry beast. As soon as the dog has
+eaten his fill, he is knocked on the head and roasted, cut up and
+divided, and the rice being taken out, is considered the <i>bonne
+bouche</i>. The Manipur dogs are regularly bred for sale to the
+hill-tribes, Nagas included, and a portion of the bazaar, or market,
+used to be allotted to them. I have seen a string of <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb33" href="#pb33" name="pb33">33</a>]</span>nineteen
+dogs being led away to be strangled. Poor things, they seemed to
+realise that all was not well.</p>
+<p>The Naga women are not handsome but very pleasant-looking, and many
+of the girls are pretty, but soon age with the hard toil they have to
+perform; working in the fields and carrying heavy loads up endless
+hills. They have plenty of spirit and can generally hold their own.
+They do not marry till they are nearly or quite grown up. Divorce can
+be easily obtained when there is an equal division of goods. Often a
+young man takes advantage of this, and marries a rich old widow, and
+soon divorces her, receiving half her property, when he is in a
+position to marry a nice young girl. The tribal name of the Angami
+Nagas is &ldquo;Tengima.&rdquo; Naga is a name given by the inhabitants
+of the plains, and in the Assamese language means &ldquo;naked.&rdquo;
+As some of the Naga tribes are seen habitually in that state, the name
+was <span class="corr" id="xd20e1020" title=
+"Source: abitrarily">arbitrarily</span> applied to them all. It is the
+greatest mistake to connect them with the snake worshippers, &ldquo;Nag
+Bungsees&rdquo; of India. Neither Nagas or Manipuris, or any tribes on
+the eastern frontier, are addicted to this worship, or have any
+traditions connected with it, and any snake, cobra (Nag) or otherwise,
+would receive small mercy at their hands. The slightest personal
+acquaintance with the Assamese and their language, would have dispelled
+this myth for ever.</p>
+<p>The Nagas are skilful iron-workers and turn out very handsome
+spears. Their women weave substantial and pretty coloured cloths, and
+every man knows enough of rough carpentering to enable him <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb34" href="#pb34" name="pb34">34</a>]</span>to build
+his house, and make pestles and mortars for husking rice. They make
+rough pottery, but without the potter&rsquo;s wheel.</p>
+<p>After Ghumbeer Singh&rsquo;s Expedition, our next dealings with the
+Angamis were in 1833, when Lieut. Gordon, adjutant of the Manipur Levy,
+accompanied the Rajah of Manipur with a large force of Manipuris into
+the Angami hills. On this occasion, Kohima and other villages were
+subdued, as already stated, and an annual tribute exacted by
+Manipur.</p>
+<p>So far as the British territories were concerned, Naga raids went on
+as usual, but nothing was done till early in January 1839, when Mr.
+Grange, sub-Assistant Commissioner of the Nowgong District, was
+despatched with a detachment of the First Assam Sebundies (now 43rd
+Goorkha Light Infantry), fifty men of the Cachar Infantry, and some
+Shan Militia, with orders to try and repress these annual outrages. His
+expedition was ill supplied, but fortunately returned without any
+severe losses. His route lay through North Cachar to Berrimeh; thence,
+<i>vi&acirc;</i> Razepima to Samagudting and Mohung Deejood; beyond
+gaining local knowledge there was no result, except perhaps to show
+that a well-armed party could march where it liked through the
+hills.</p>
+<p>In December 1839, Mr. Grange again visited the hills, and, excepting
+1843, an expedition was sent into the hills every year till 1846 when a
+post was permanently established at Samagudting. None of these
+expeditions had any really satisfactory result. The Angamis submitted
+to our troops at the time, and directly we retreated, murder and the
+carrying <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb35" href="#pb35" name=
+"pb35">35</a>]</span>off of slaves re-commenced. The establishment of
+the post at Samagudting had the effect of improving our relations with
+the people of that village; and Mozuma was always inclined to be
+friendly; beyond this nothing was accomplished.</p>
+<p>In August 1849, Bog Chand Darogal, a brave Assamese who was in
+charge of Samagudting, was murdered by one of the clans of Mozuma,
+owing to the rash way in which he interfered in a dispute with another
+clan, which latter <span class="corr" id="xd20e1040" title=
+"Source: remaind">remained</span> faithful to us, and thus led to
+another expedition on a large scale. Finally, in December 1850, a large
+force was sent up with artillery. Kohima, which had sent a challenge,
+was destroyed on February 11th, 1851. In this last engagement over
+three hundred Nagas were killed, and our prestige thoroughly
+established. We might then, with great advantage to the people and our
+own districts, have occupied a permanent post, and while protecting our
+districts that had suffered so sorely from Naga raids, have spread
+civilisation far and wide among the hill-tribes. Of course we did
+nothing of the kind; on such occasions the Government of India always
+does the wrong thing; it was done now, and, instead of occupying a new
+position, we retreated, even abandoning our old post at Samagudting,
+and only maintaining a small body of Shan Militia at Dimapur. The Nagas
+ascribed <span class="corr" id="xd20e1043" title=
+"Source: out">our</span> retreat to fear, the periodical raids on our
+unfortunate villages were renewed, and unheeded by us; and finally, in
+1856, we <span class="corr" id="xd20e1046" title=
+"Source: withrew">withdrew</span> the detachment from Dimapur and
+abandoned the post.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e1050width"><a href="images/maph.gif"><img src=
+"images/map.gif" alt="The Naga Hills and Manipur." width="720" height=
+"552"></a>
+<p class="figureHead">The Naga Hills and Manipur.</p>
+<p class="first">[<i>Page 35.</i></p>
+</div>
+<p>After that, the Nagas ran riot, and one outrage after another was
+committed. In 1862 the guard <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb36" href=
+"#pb36" name="pb36">36</a>]</span>and village of Borpathar were
+attacked and, one Sepoy and thirteen villagers killed and two children
+carried off as slaves, but no notice was taken; it was not till 1866
+that, wearied out by repeated outrages and insults, we determined to
+establish ourselves in the hills, and once for all put down
+raiding.</p>
+<p>A kind of vague boundary between Manipur and the Naga Hills had been
+laid down in 1842, by Lieutenant Biggs on our part, and Captain Gordon
+on the part of the Durbar, but in 1851, when utterly sick of Naga
+affairs, we determined on a policy of non-intervention, permission in
+writing was given to the Durbar to extend its authority over the Naga
+villages on our side of the border. This must be remembered later on.
+Failing any intention on our part to annex the hills, it would have
+been good policy to have re-organised the Manipur territory, and to
+have aided the Maharajah to annex and subdue as much as he could under
+certain restrictions. Had this been done we should have saved ourselves
+much trouble. Personally, I would rather see the Naga Hills properly
+administered by ourselves, but the strong rule of Manipur would have
+been far better than the state of things that prevailed for many years
+after 1851. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb37" href="#pb37" name=
+"pb37">37</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e922" href="#xd20e922src" name="xd20e922">1</a></span> Captain
+Butler was struck by a spear from a Naga ambuscade, near the village of
+Pangti in the Naga Hills on December 25, 1876. He died on January 7. He
+had held the appointment of Political Agent for seven years, and was
+the son of Colonel Butler, the author of &lsquo;Scenes in Assam&rsquo;
+and &lsquo;A Sketch in Assam,&rsquo; the earliest accounts of that
+eastern border.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e932" href="#xd20e932src" name="xd20e932">2</a></span> &ldquo;The
+influence exercised by Colonel McCulloch as a political agent at
+Manipur was most beneficial,&rdquo; wrote the <i>Times</i>, April 1,
+1891, &ldquo;and since his time no one has been more successful than
+Colonel Johnstone, who took charge in 1877, and rendered conspicuous
+service by raising the siege of <span class="corr" id="xd20e939" title=
+"Source: Kohimas">Kohima</span> by the Nagas in
+1879.&rdquo;&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch4" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter IV.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Value of keeping a promise&mdash;Episode of
+Sallajee&mdash;Protection given to small villages, and the large ones
+defied&mdash;&ldquo;Thorough Government of India&rdquo; views&mdash;A
+plea for Christian education in the Naga Hills.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Almost from the day I took charge, I let it be known
+that I was, as natives say, &ldquo;a man of one word,&rdquo; and that
+if I said a thing, I meant it. If I promised a thing, whether a present
+or punishment, the man got it; and if I refused any request, months of
+importunity would not move me. This rule saved me much time and worry;
+instead of being pestered for weeks with some petition, in the hope
+that my patience would be worn out, I simply said Yes, or No, and the
+people soon learned that my decision was final. Later on, during the
+Naga Hills campaign, I found that my ways had not been forgotten, and
+this made dealing with the people much simpler than it might have
+been.</p>
+<p>A certain number of the villages kept one or two men, as the case
+might be, constantly in attendance on me to represent them. These were
+called delegates, and received ten rupees each per mensem. I gave the
+strictest orders to these men not to engage in their tribal raids, but
+to remain absolutely neutral. Sephema had two delegates, Sejile and
+Sallajee by name, and, one day, it was reported to me that the
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb38" href="#pb38" name=
+"pb38">38</a>]</span>last had joined in a raid by his village on
+Mozuma, and I instantly summoned him to attend and put him on his trial
+for disobeying a lawful order. Some wise-acres in the place shook their
+heads, and doubted if I were strong enough to punish, or the
+<span class="corr" id="xd20e1078" title=
+"Source: advisibility">advisability</span> of doing so; but I held that
+an order must be obeyed, otherwise, it was no use issuing orders, also,
+that this was an opportunity of making an example. Of course it was an
+experiment, as no one had been punished before for a similar offence,
+and I well knew that resistance on his part would mean that to assert
+my authority I must attack and destroy Sephema, but I felt the time had
+come for vigorous action, and was prepared to go through with it. I
+tried Sallajee, found him guilty, and sentenced him to six
+months&rsquo; imprisonment in Tezpore jail. In giving judgment, I said,
+&ldquo;You have not been guilty of a disgraceful offence, therefore, I
+do not sentence you to hard labour, and shall not have you bound or
+handcuffed like a thief; but, remember, you cannot escape me, so do not
+be foolish enough to run away from the man in charge of you.&rdquo; I
+then sent him in charge of two police sepoys through one hundred miles
+of forest, and he underwent his imprisonment without attempting to get
+away. Right thankful I was that my experiment succeeded. Sallajee lived
+to fight against us, during the campaign in the Naga Hills in
+1879&ndash;80.</p>
+<p>The orders of the Government of India were strictly against our
+responsibilities being extended. We took tribute from Samagudting, but
+it was the only village we considered as under our direct rule, and
+that only so long as it suited us. Before leaving <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb39" href="#pb39" name=
+"pb39">39</a>]</span>Calcutta, the Foreign Secretary said to me
+emphatically, when I urged an extension of our sway&mdash;&ldquo;but
+those villages (the Angami Nagas) are not British territory, and we do
+not want to extend the &lsquo;red line.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+<p>However, Government may lay down rules, but as long as they are not
+sound, they cannot be kept to by artificial bonds, and sooner or later
+events prove stronger than theories. The fact is, that no Government of
+late years had ever interested itself in the Eastern Frontier tribes,
+except so far as to coax them or bribe them to keep quiet. The Abors on
+the banks of the Burrhampooter had long been paid
+&ldquo;blackmail,&rdquo; and any subterfuge was resorted to, that would
+stave off the day of reckoning which was nevertheless inevitable.</p>
+<p>As regards the Nagas, this timidity was highly reprehensible. We had
+acquired such a prestige, that the least sign of vigorous action on our
+part was sure to be crowned with success, so long as we did not make
+some foolish mistake.</p>
+<p>The people in the hills knew that we objected to the system of
+raiding, and could not understand why, such being the case, we did not
+put it down, and ascribed our not doing so to weakness, wherein they
+were right, and inability wherein they were wrong. The less powerful
+villages would at any time have been glad of our protection, and one of
+the most powerful&mdash;Mozuma, was anxious to become subject to us.
+Offers of submission had been made once or twice, but no one liked to
+take the responsibility of going against the policy and orders of the
+Government. At last an event occurred which brought <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb40" href="#pb40" name="pb40">40</a>]</span>things
+to a crisis, and forced us either to adopt a strong policy, or make
+ourselves contemptible by a confession of weakness, and
+indifference.</p>
+<p>Towards the end of March 1874, a deputation came to me from the
+village of Mezeffina begging for protection against Mozuma, with whom
+they had a feud, and from whom for some reason or other they daily
+expected an attack. They offered to become British subjects and pay
+revenue in return for protection. I considered the matter carefully,
+and before I had given my decision, crowds of old people, and women
+carrying their children, came in asking me to save their lives. I at
+once decided to grant their request, and promised them what they asked,
+on condition that they paid up a year&rsquo;s tribute in advance. This
+they at once did, and I immediately sent a messenger to proclaim to
+Mozuma that the people of Mezeffina were British subjects, and to
+threaten them or any one else with dire vengeance if they dared to lay
+hands on them. Our new subjects asked me and my wife, to go out and
+receive their submission in person, an invitation which we accepted,
+and next day a large number of men turned up to carry my wife, and our
+baggage, and that of our escort, consisting of twenty men.</p>
+<p>The Mezeffina men rested for the night in Samagudting, and early on
+the following morning we started, and reached the village in good time,
+where we were received with great demonstrations of respect. We spent
+the night there, and then were conveyed back to Samagudting, after a
+very pleasant visit.</p>
+<p>I did not underrate the grave responsibility that I <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb41" href="#pb41" name="pb41">41</a>]</span>incurred
+in going against the policy of Government, but I felt it was utterly
+impossible that I, as their representative, could quietly stand by, and
+see a savage massacre perpetrated, within sight of our station of
+Samagudting. There is no doubt that this would have speedily followed
+had I sent the people away without acceding to their wishes. Of course,
+I might have used my influence with Mozuma to prevent a raid in this
+particular instance, but that <i>would have been giving protection</i>,
+and, I argued, if we give protection, let us get a little revenue to
+help to pay for it. Why should all the advantage be on one side?
+Besides a half-and-half policy would never have succeeded.
+&ldquo;Thorough&rdquo; should be the motto of all who deal with savage
+and half-civilised races; a promise to refer to Government is of little
+avail when people are thinking of each other&rsquo;s blood. Action,
+immediate action, is what is required. A failure to realise this,
+brought on later the Mozuma expedition of 1877&ndash;78, in which a
+valuable officer lost his life.</p>
+<p>Besides the obvious objections I have pointed out, any attempt to
+make terms in favour of one village after another by negotiations with
+their adversaries, would have involved us in so many complications,
+that it would probably have ended in a combination against us.</p>
+<p>I reported the matter to Government, and before I could receive any
+answer, the village of Sitekima which had a feud with Sephema came in
+and asked for the same favour to be accorded to it, as had been granted
+to Mezeffina. I accordingly took them over on the same terms, and again
+issued a proclamation <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb42" href="#pb42"
+name="pb42">42</a>]</span>calling on all people to respect their rights
+as British subjects.</p>
+<p>Soon after I heard from the Chief Commissioner of Assam, directing
+me to take over no more villages without a reference. However, this
+could not be, there was no telegraph in those days, and the tide in
+favour of asking for our protection had set in in earnest, and must be
+taken at the flood. &rdquo;<i lang="la">Vestigia nulla
+retrorsum</i>&rdquo; there was no retreat; and having acted according
+to my judgment for the best interests of the State, I felt bound to
+take further responsibility on myself, when necessary. Accordingly when
+the little village of Phenina applied for protection and offered
+revenue, I at once acceded, and accepted their allegiance as British
+subjects, with the result that they were left in peace by their
+powerful neighbours, and had no more anxiety as to their safety.
+Phenina was followed by several other villages, to whom I granted the
+same terms.</p>
+<p>The Mozuma Nagas were always an intelligent set of men, and liked to
+be in the forefront of any movement. Seeing the part that other
+villages were taking, they came forward and offered to pay revenue, if
+we would establish a guard of police in their village, and set up a
+school for their children to attend. This was a question involving a
+considerable expenditure of money, and as they were not in need of
+protection, I felt that I could not accede to their request without
+further reference, but I sent on the proposal to Government with a
+strong recommendation that it should be adopted. The consideration of
+it was put off for a time, and when very tardily my recommendation was
+accepted, the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb43" href="#pb43" name=
+"pb43">43</a>]</span>Mozuma people had, as I predicted, changed their
+minds. Such cases are of constant occurrence. When will our rulers take
+the story of the Sibylline books to heart?</p>
+<p>The question of education generally, was one that greatly interested
+me, my success in Keonjhur<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1122src" href=
+"#xd20e1122" name="xd20e1122src">1</a> in the tributary Mehals of
+Orissa, where I had introduced schools, having been very great. In
+combination with other suggestions, I strongly urged the advisability
+of establishing a regular system of education, including religious
+instruction, under a competent clergyman of the Church of England. I
+pointed out that the Nagas had no religion; that they were highly
+intelligent and capable of receiving civilisation; that with it they
+would want a religion, and that we might just as well give them our
+own, and make them in that way a source of strength, by thus mutually
+attaching them to us. Failing this, I predicted that, following the
+example of other hill-tribes, they would sooner or later become debased
+Hindoos or Mussulmans, and in the latter case, as we knew by
+experience, be a constant source of trouble and annoyance, Mussulman
+converts in Assam and Eastern Bengal, being a particularly disagreeable
+and bigoted set. My suggestion did not find favour with the
+authorities, and I deeply regret it. A fine, interesting race like the
+Angamis, might, as a Christian tribe, occupy a most useful position on
+our Eastern Frontier, and I feel strongly <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb44" href="#pb44" name="pb44">44</a>]</span>that we are not justified
+in allowing them to be corrupted and gradually &ldquo;converted&rdquo;
+by the miserable, bigoted, caste-observing Mussulman of Bengal, men who
+have not one single good quality in common with the manly Afghans, and
+other real Mussulman tribes. I do not like to think it, but, unless we
+give the Nagas a helping hand in time, such is sure to be their fate,
+and we shall have ourselves to thank when they are utterly
+corrupted.</p>
+<p>The late General Dalton, C.S.I., when Commissioner of Chota Nagpure,
+did his utmost to aid Christian Mission among the wild Kols; his
+argument being like mine, that they wanted a religion, and that were
+they Christians, they would be a valuable counterpoise in time of
+trouble to the vast non-Christian population of Behar. In the same way
+it cannot be doubted, that a large population of Christian hill-men
+between Assam and Burmah, would be a valuable prop to the State.
+Properly taught and judiciously handled, the Angamis would have made a
+fine manly set of Christians, of a type superior to most Indian native
+converts, and probably devoted to our rule. As things stand at present,
+I fear they will be gradually corrupted and lose the good qualities,
+which have made them attractive in the past, and that, as time goes on,
+unless some powerful counter influence is brought to bear on them, they
+will adopt the vile, bigoted type of Mahommedanism prevalent in Assam
+and Cachar, and instead of becoming a tower of strength to us, be a
+perpetual weakness and source of annoyance. I earnestly hope that I may
+be wrong, and that their future may be as bright a one as I could wish
+for them. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb45" href="#pb45" name=
+"pb45">45</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1122" href="#xd20e1122src" name="xd20e1122">1</a></span> As
+Assist-sup. of the tributary Mehals, Sir James (then Lieutenant)
+Johnstone endowed schools at Keonjhur and presented the Government with
+some land he had bought for the purpose. When the Rajah, during whose
+minority he had managed the affairs of Keonjhur as political officer,
+came of age, the agency was abolished for economy.&mdash;<span class=
+"sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch5" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter V.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Dimapur&mdash;A terrible
+storm&mdash;Cultivation&mdash;Aggression by Konoma&mdash;My
+ultimatum&mdash;Konoma submits&mdash;Birth of a son&mdash;Forest
+flowers&mdash;A fever patient&mdash;Proposed change of
+station&mdash;Leave Naga Hills&mdash;March through the
+forest&mdash;Depredation by tigers&mdash;Calcutta&mdash;Return to
+England.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Once more before the weather began to be unpleasantly
+hot, we went down to Dimapur that I might inspect the road and a rest
+house being built at Nowkatta. Dimapur though hot, was pleasant enough
+in the evening, when I used to row my wife about on the large tank in a
+canoe which just held us both. We could see a few feet below the
+surface, the remains of the post set up when a tank is dedicated to the
+deity. This post is usually many feet above the water, but here it had
+rotted away from age. On a tree close to the rest house I shot a
+chestnut coloured flying squirrel.</p>
+<p>One sultry afternoon I rode out alone to Nowkatta. About half-way I
+was stopped by a sudden storm, one of the most terrific I have ever
+seen; the wind howled through the forest, and the trees swayed to and
+fro literally like blades of grass. As the storm increased, trees were
+torn up by the roots right and left, and some that were very firmly
+rooted were shattered in pieces. Many of these trees were 80 to 120
+feet in height, and large in proportion, but the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb46" href="#pb46" name="pb46">46</a>]</span>wind was
+so high that I never heard the sound of the crash. I hardly expected to
+escape being crushed by a falling tree, and nothing but the extreme
+activity of my pony, a little Manipuri, saved me. I was at length
+enabled to get on to Nowkatta, but as I returned, I had much difficulty
+in making my way through the masses of fallen trees which formed an
+obstacle often six feet in height, and I could only pass them by
+penetrating the dense underwood, and riding round one end.</p>
+<p>I returned to Dimapur later than I expected and drenched by the
+soaking rain. Next day we went back to Samagudting very glad to be
+again in a cooler atmosphere. We both paid for our visit to the
+lowlands in a sharp attack of intermittent fever. Luckily, my wife
+speedily recovered; but it told on my system, already saturated with
+malaria and was the forerunner of constant attacks.</p>
+<p>Except for its unhealthiness, Dimapur was a nice place, and, if
+properly opened out, and cultivated, the country would be far more
+salubrious. For this reason I advocated families being induced to
+settle there as cultivators; and I had a scheme for establishing a
+Police Militia Reserve in that district. I thought that a certain
+number of the Naga Hills police might with advantage be discharged
+every year and enlisted as reserve men, liable to serve when needed in
+case of trouble; a reduced rate of pay to be given to each man, and a
+grant of land to cultivate. I believe the system would have worked
+well, but it was not sanctioned.</p>
+<p>An incident occurred in the month of August which might have proved
+serious. A native of a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb47" href="#pb47"
+name="pb47">47</a>]</span>Kutcha Naga village within sight of
+Samagudting came to complain that, while gathering wild tea-seed for
+sale, he had been driven off by a Konoma Naga. Konoma, though not the
+most populous village, had long been considered the most powerful and
+warlike in the hills, and a threat from one of its members was almost a
+sentence of death to a man from a weak village. The Merema clan also,
+one of the worst in the hills for lawless deeds, had never made its
+submission to Captain Butler, though it had on one occasion to his
+predecessor. On hearing the man&rsquo;s complaint, I at once sent off a
+message by a Naga calling upon the chiefs of Konoma to come in to me,
+and also to cease molesting their neighbours; but the man returned,
+saying that they refused to come in, and intended to do as they liked
+with the tea-seed, as it was theirs. This was more than I could put up
+with, and I selected a particularly trustworthy man, a naik (corporal)
+in the police named Kurum Singh,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1152src"
+href="#xd20e1152" name="xd20e1152src">1</a> who knew the Naga language,
+and would, I was convinced, speak out fearlessly, and deliver my
+message. I sent him off at once to Konoma to call upon the head-men to
+come in without delay, and make their humble submission to me within a
+day and a half of receiving the summons, failing which I would attack
+and destroy their village. Kurum Singh left, and I felt rather anxious,
+as Konoma contained five times as many warriors as I had police all
+told, and it occupied a strong position; however, I felt I had done my
+duty. It was a great satisfaction when Kurum Singh returned, saying
+that the chiefs were coming in, and they did so <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb48" href="#pb48" name="pb48">48</a>]</span>within
+the stipulated time, and made their submission and presented me with a
+large state spear as a token of it. They also humbly apologised and
+promised never to molest that Kutcha Naga village again; and when I
+spoke of the Queen, begged me to write to her and say, that she must
+not believe any idle tales against the Konoma men, as they would be her
+humble servants. It was a satisfactory ending to what might have been a
+troublesome business. The state spear now ornaments my hall.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e1158width"><img src="images/p048.jpg" alt=
+"Fulford Hall." width="618" height="519">
+<p class="figureHead">Fulford Hall.</p>
+<p class="first">[<i>Page 48.</i></p>
+</div>
+<p>On the 23rd June, my wife presented me with a son, and he being the
+first child of pure European parentage born in the hills, the Nagas of
+Samagudting took great interest in the baby, and old Yatsol&eacute; the
+P&eacute;umah, said he should be their chief and named him &ldquo;Naga
+Rajah.&rdquo; The friendly women and girls from the village constantly
+came to see him. We liked the hills and the people, and the work so
+much that we both felt we could willingly have passed our lives among
+them. All the same, our accommodation was really most wretched, and
+food was bad and scarce, and water scarcer. As the rainy season
+advanced the place grew more and more unhealthy, and having a baby to
+attend to, my wife never left Samagudting. I continued to go down to
+Dimapur occasionally, and sometimes rode out with my friend Needham to
+inspect the path that was being cut to Mohung Deejood and a rest house
+being built at a place in the forest on that road, called Borsali. It
+was pleasant to have a companion during a long lonely ride. Needham was
+an indefatigable worker, and always ready for a dash. He made a capital
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb49" href="#pb49" name=
+"pb49">49</a>]</span>frontier officer, and has since greatly
+distinguished himself on the N.-E. Frontier.</p>
+<p>Towards the end of August, the <span class="corr" id="xd20e1172"
+title="Source: Vauda">Vanda</span> C&aelig;rulea orchids began to come
+into flower. There was a magnificent plant of them in a large old tree
+on the summit of the hill, indeed the most splendid specimen of their
+kind that I ever saw; but wild flowers, many really beautiful, were
+generally procurable, especially a small snow-white flower rather like
+a periwinkle that grew in the jungle on a small ever-green bush. Ferns,
+including maidenhair, were very plentiful, and we made collections of
+them in our morning and evening walks. These walks often led us past
+stray huts, and once my wife was asked to come into one and prescribe
+for a sick Naga woman. We both entered it and finding that the woman
+had fever, we told her husband to keep her cool and quiet, and promised
+some medicine. When we again went to see her, the hut, about nine feet
+by seven feet in size, was full of little fires on the floor, over
+which several Nagas were drying strips of flesh from an elephant that
+had been killed a few miles away. The temperature must have been about
+110 degrees, so little wonder that the poor woman was no better. The
+husband said she would not take her medicine, and when in our presence
+he attempted to give it she hit him on the head; yet he wore the
+warrior&rsquo;s kilt, so had taken at least one life. When my wife sat
+down by her and gave her the medicine she took it readily. Towards the
+end of the rainy season many were laid low by fever. Natives of other
+parts of India until thoroughly acclimatised, suffer greatly from the
+diseases peculiar to jungle districts, <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb50" href="#pb50" name="pb50">50</a>]</span>and our servants were not
+exceptions to the rule. Once acclimatised, a Hindoostani seems able to
+stand anything. It used to be said in my regiment, the 1st Assam Light
+Infantry Battalion, now 42nd, that Hindoostani recruits spent their
+first three years&rsquo; service in hospital! I am sure that something
+of the same kind might have been said of those who came to the Naga
+Hills before the headquarters were removed to Kohima.</p>
+<p>Captain Butler, recognising the unsuitableness of Samagudting for a
+station, had recommended the removal of the headquarters to Woka, in
+the Lotah Naga country, and about sixty-three miles from Kohima. I
+spoke to him on the subject, and pointed out the superior advantages of
+Kohima as a central position, dominating the Angami Naga country. He
+quite agreed with me, but said he had advocated Woka as being nearer
+the plains, nearer water carriage, and altogether a more comfortable
+situation, especially for the officers. I went into the whole subject
+most carefully, and before leaving the Naga Hills I thought it right to
+record my opinion in a memorandum to the Government of Assam. This I
+did, pointing out as forcibly as I could the very superior advantages
+of Kohima, and urging most strongly that it should be adopted as our
+headquarters station in the Naga Hills. As I was only the officiating
+agent, I could not expect my views to carry as much weight as Captain
+Butler&rsquo;s, but convinced as I was, I was bound to state them. The
+question was not settled for some years when Kohima was the site
+selected, and it has ever since been the headquarters station.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb51" href="#pb51" name=
+"pb51">51</a>]</span></p>
+<p>I had never got over the attack of fever I had in April, and as the
+rainy season advanced, and we were for days together enveloped in mist,
+I had constant attacks, with other complications, and as Captain Butler
+was coming out in November, and the doctor strongly recommended me to
+go to England again, I determined to apply for leave. My friend Needham
+had gone on leave to Shillong, so I could not think of starting till he
+returned. He was due at Samagudting early in November, and I prepared
+to leave then. It was with most sincere regret that we made
+arrangements for starting. We had got used to the discomforts of the
+place and had been very happy there and liked the people, and felt that
+they liked us; the cold weather too was just beginning and everything
+around us looked beautiful.</p>
+<p>I had determined to march straight through the forest to Doboka, and
+thence take boat down the Kullung river to Gowhatty. It was a dreadful
+march to undertake, along a mere track untraversed by any European for
+years, but my wife liked the idea of it, and it was shorter than the
+route <i>vi&acirc;</i> Nigriting. On November 6th, we reluctantly said
+&ldquo;good-bye&rdquo; to all our kind friends at Samagudting and
+marched to Dimapur, where we halted next day to get all our things into
+order. Some of the chiefs of Samagudting accompanied us so far on our
+way and bade us a sorrowful adieu on the 7th. One old fellow took quite
+an affectionate farewell of our baby Dick. When I saw him again in
+1879, he was blind, and one of his pretty little girls was dying.</p>
+<p>We marched through dense forest on the 8th to <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb52" href="#pb52" name="pb52">52</a>]</span>Borsali,
+my wife riding and carrying the baby in her arms, there being no other
+mode of progression along such a bad road. On the 9th after seven
+hours&rsquo; actual marching, we reached Mohung Deejood, a place
+prettily situated on the banks of the Jumoona river with the last speck
+of the Rengma Hills standing out in high relief behind the village, but
+at some distance from it. Next day we again had a tiring march of
+eleven hours, including a halt for breakfast at a place called
+&ldquo;Silbheta&rdquo; where there are splendid waterfalls, and did not
+reach our halting place, Bokuleea, till 6 P.M. The last two marches had
+been through a country devastated by tigers which had literally eaten
+up the population; each day we passed deserted village sites. At
+Bokuleea we made rafts and floated down the river to Doboka, which we
+reached on November 13th.</p>
+<p>Doboka is situated close to the hill of the same name and was a
+prominent object from Samagudting. There we took boats, and travelled
+in them down the Kullung river. We reached the junction with the
+Burrhampooter at daybreak on November 17th, and Gowhatty at midday. I
+was most thankful to see my wife and child safe in the Dak Bungalow
+after what was for delicate people a perilous journey, though an
+interesting and enjoyable one, through a country hardly ever traversed
+by European officials, and never by women and children. After a few
+days at Gowhatty to rest ourselves, we departed by steamer for
+Goalundo, arriving there early on November 29th, and immediately left
+for Calcutta, which we reached the same evening and went to stay with
+our kind friends the Rivers Thompsons, <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb53" href="#pb53" name="pb53">53</a>]</span>with whom we had
+travelled out to India in 1873. Glad as we were to be in civilised
+quarters once more after all our wanderings, we could not help
+regretting the kindly genial people we had left, and the beautiful
+scenery of the forest and mountain land, where we had lived so long and
+so happily.</p>
+<p>On arrival in Calcutta, I went before the Medical Board, but not
+liking to go to England again so soon, I applied for three
+months&rsquo; leave to visit the North-West Provinces for change of
+air, and we visited Benares, Lucknow, Cawnpore, and other towns. I do
+not attempt to describe them, as it has been often done by abler pens
+than mine. The after symptoms of malaria increased, and it was vain to
+prolong my stay in India in the hope of a cure. The Medical Board said
+my appearance was sufficient without examination, so we left Calcutta
+by the next steamer, going by &ldquo;long sea&rdquo; to avoid the
+fatiguing journey across India to Bombay. After unusually rough weather
+in the Mediterranean and off the coast of Spain, we landed at
+Southampton, on March 9th, at 9 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, and went
+on to London next morning. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb54" href=
+"#pb54" name="pb54">54</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1152" href="#xd20e1152src" name="xd20e1152">1</a></span> I
+rewarded Kurum, and he distinguished himself later on.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch6" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter VI.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Return to India&mdash;Attached to Foreign
+Office&mdash;Imperial assemblage at Delhi&mdash;Almorah&mdash;Appointed
+to Manipur&mdash;Journey to Shillong&mdash;Cherra Poojee&mdash;Colonel
+McCulloch&mdash;Question of ceremony.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Malaria, and all the evils that follow in its train,
+are more easily acquired than got rid of. Possibly two years in
+England, including four visits to Carlsbad, which high medical
+authorities seem to consider, and very justly, a <i>sine qu&acirc;
+non</i>, might give a man a good chance if he never again visited a
+malarious district, otherwise, my own experience shows me that two
+years are nothing. Every time I have gone before a Medical Board in
+London, preparatory to returning to duty, their last charge has been,
+&ldquo;You must never again go to a malarious district!&rdquo; Medical
+Boards propose, and Government and circumstances dispose.</p>
+<p>I stayed at home in a high and healthy part of the Midlands, and
+left for India again in October. I arrived in Calcutta in November,
+where I again suffered from malarious symptoms; but I soon got better,
+and was attached to the Foreign Office, at my own request, extra
+attach&eacute;s being required for the Imperial Assemblage.</p>
+<p>I had the good fortune to see the whole of that gorgeous pageant,
+the like of which this generation <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb55"
+href="#pb55" name="pb55">55</a>]</span>will probably never witness
+again, under the most favourable auspices; and though I had on an
+average eighteen hours&rsquo; work out of each twenty-four, I was well
+repaid by being able to take part in it. I met many old friends, and
+also became acquainted with Salar Jung, Maharajahs Scindiah and Holkar,
+Sir Dinkur Rao, Madhava Rao, and several other now historical
+celebrities. The Viceroy&rsquo;s reception-tent at night was a grand
+sight, filled with gallant soldiers, European and native, and great
+statesmen.</p>
+<p>Among the new arrivals was the Khan of Khelat, an intelligent but
+savage-looking chief, with eyes all about him. I was being constantly
+deputed to carry polite messages from the Viceroy to different chiefs
+and celebrities and to meet them at the railway stations. Among those
+whom I met were the envoy from the Chief of Muscat, also the Siamese
+Ambassador and his suite, a highly intelligent and sensible set of men.
+I remember well the rough-and-ready way in which the younger Siamese
+officers looked after their luggage and effects. They were provided
+with a handsome set of tents, and all dined together at one table in
+European fashion, in the most civilised way, with the British officer
+attached to them.</p>
+<p>I stayed at Delhi till the assemblage broke up, and after a few days
+in Calcutta with the Foreign Office, went to Bombay to meet my wife,
+who, with our two boys, arrived there on February 2nd. We at once set
+out on our way to Almorah in the Himalayas, where I was permitted to
+reside for a year and compile Foreign Office records. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb56" href="#pb56" name="pb56">56</a>]</span></p>
+<p>We were delayed at Moradabad for a few days, as the passes were
+covered with snow. At last we started, and found Nynee Tal deep in
+snow, and the lake frozen. Next day we marched across the track of an
+avalanche, and the following afternoon reached the Almorah Dak
+Bungalow, or rest house. The ground was covered with snow, and the cold
+intense, the bungalow draughty and very uncomfortable. After a few days
+we got into a house, which Sir H. Ramsey, who was then out on duty in
+the district, had kindly taken for us, and I dived deep into my
+records, consisting of early documents relating to Assam and the
+Singpho tribes.</p>
+<p>As the weather grew warmer, Almorah became very pleasant. I pined
+for active work, but our stay here gave my wife experience in the mode
+of life in India, for which she was afterwards very thankful, and she
+obtained hints on housekeeping subjects from other ladies, which were a
+help to her later on. Life in the Naga Hills was of course very
+different to what it is in more civilised parts of India.</p>
+<p>The Foreign Office had my name down in their list for an
+appointment. I could have gone to Manipur when I landed in Calcutta,
+but was not well enough. In July, I had a telegram to say that Lieut.
+Durand, who had lately been appointed, was ill, and must be relieved.
+Would I go? I at once replied in the affirmative, and off we started on
+July 16th. It was very short notice, but changing quarters at short
+notice is part of an Indian official&rsquo;s life, and the prospect of
+work was delightful to me. We had a trying journey down to Calcutta, as
+the rains had not begun in the North-West Provinces, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb57" href="#pb57" name="pb57">57</a>]</span>and the
+heat was tremendous. However, we arrived none the worse for it, and
+stayed for a day or two with our kind friends, the Medlicotts.</p>
+<p>As Colonel Keatinge, the Chief Commissioner of Assam, wished to see
+me before I went to Manipur, I was ordered to join at Shillong, so we
+proceeded by rail to Goalundo, one night&rsquo;s journey from Calcutta,
+and thence by river steamer to Chuttuk, on the Soorma, where we changed
+into country boats, and proceeded up a smaller river and across great
+jheels or shallow lakes, often passing for miles through high grass
+growing in the water, which hid us from everything, till we reached a
+place called Bholagunj, situated on a river rapidly becoming narrower,
+where we again changed, this time into small canoes, the only
+conveyances that could take us up the rapids, with which the river
+abounds.</p>
+<p>From Chuttuk we had come through a country mostly covered with grass
+jungle, twelve to fifteen feet in height; now we passed through forest
+scenery, very lovely fine trees, with festoons of creepers and flowers
+overhanging the stream. At last we reached Thuria Gh&acirc;t, where the
+ascent of the hills commenced, and there we halted for the night in the
+Dak Bungalow, or rest house. Most places situated as Thuria Gh&acirc;t
+is, would be deadly on account of malaria, but it seems to be an
+exception, and, as far as I have seen, healthy.</p>
+<p>Knowing the servant difficulties in the province of Assam, we had
+brought servants with us from Almorah, men who had implored us to take
+them. When I consented to do so I voluntarily raised <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb58" href="#pb58" name="pb58">58</a>]</span>their
+wages from fifty to eighty per cent. above what they had been
+receiving, but with the exception of a Dhobee (washerman), and a bearer
+(a compound of housemaid and valet), they all became corrupted by the
+other servants they met at Shillong, and who spoke of Manipur in very
+disparaging terms, so before going farther I let them go, as they
+demanded an enormous increase of wages.</p>
+<p>The Dhobee Nunnoo, and the bearer Horna, stuck to me to the very
+last, and proved admirable servants. It was fortunate that we had
+servants, as there were none at Thuria Gh&acirc;t rest house; as it
+was, we managed very well, and were prepared to march in the morning
+before the coolies were ready to take up our luggage. We had a tiring
+march up the hill to Cherra Poojee; my wife and the children were in
+baskets on men&rsquo;s backs, but I was on foot and felt the march in
+the intense heat to be very fatiguing, though we halted to rest
+half-way. However, when we reached the plateau of Cherra Poojee, 4000
+feet above Thuria Gh&acirc;t, the cool air speedily set me right, and
+we all enjoyed the scenery, hills, plains, waterfalls in abundance,
+deep valleys, and the lowlands of Sylhet, covered with water, as far as
+the eye could reach. We had a comfortable bungalow to rest in, and a
+cool night at last.</p>
+<p>Next day we marched to Moflung, 6000 feet above the sea, and then to
+Shillong, where for the next few days we were hospitably entertained by
+the Chief Commissioner, Colonel (now General) Keatinge, V.C., C.S.I.,
+who kindly sent a carriage to meet us on the road. As Colonel Keatinge
+wished me to remain at Shillong for a time, and meet Mr. Carnegy,
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb59" href="#pb59" name=
+"pb59">59</a>]</span>political officer in the Naga Hills, who was
+coming there later on, I arranged to stay, and took a house; so we
+settled down comfortably till the early part of October&mdash;a very
+pleasant arrangement for us instead of facing the intense heat of the
+Cachar Valley in August. It gave me a good opportunity of looking over
+the records of the Chief Commissioner&rsquo;s office, where I found
+much relating to Manipur, but I fear that it was lost when the Record
+Office was burnt down some years ago, the copies also having been
+destroyed in Manipur during the rebellion of 1891. At last the day for
+leaving came, and we packed up our things and prepared once more to set
+off on our travels.</p>
+<p>Before leaving, I paid several visits to Colonel McCulloch, who,
+since retiring from the service, had established himself at Shillong,
+and asked his advice on many points, and learned much from him
+regarding Manipur. He very kindly gave his opinion freely on all
+questions, telling me where some of my predecessors had failed, and
+pointing out the pitfalls to be avoided. He added to all his kindness
+by writing to the Maharajah, and telling him that, from what he had
+seen of me, he was sure it would be his fault if we did not get on
+together. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb60" href="#pb60" name=
+"pb60">60</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch7" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter VII.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Start for Manipur&mdash;March over the
+hills&mdash;Lovely scenery&mdash;View of the valleys&mdash;State
+reception&mdash;The Residency&mdash;Visitors.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Lowremba Subadar, an excellent old fellow, formerly in
+the service of Colonel McCulloch, was sent to Shillong to be in
+attendance on me, and of course to find out all he could about me and
+report the result. Before I left, he sent a note to the Maharajah of my
+requirements in the way of coolies, etc., for our long journey of ten
+days between Cachar and Manipur, and I also intimated that, as the
+representative of the British Government, and as one who well knew what
+was due to me as such, I should expect to be received with proper
+ceremony.</p>
+<p>This was a point on which I laid much stress, as my experience had
+taught me that in a native state so tenacious of its dignity and
+ancient customs as Manipur, my future success depended in a great
+measure on my scrupulously requiring all that I was entitled to, and as
+much more as I could get. It had been a complaint against one of my
+predecessors that he had been discourteous, and I determined that the
+Manipuris should not have to complain of me on that score, and in my
+letters I took care to be as courteous and considerate as possible.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb61" href="#pb61" name=
+"pb61">61</a>]</span></p>
+<p>On former occasions it had been the custom for a new political agent
+to enter the capital unattended, and to call on the Maharajah the next
+day, the latter repaying the visit a day later. This I did not consider
+sufficient, and I determined that he should come out to meet me in
+state. When Colonel McCulloch returned to Manipur the second time, this
+had been done, Colonel McCulloch being an old and intimate friend of
+the Maharajah. I quoted this as a precedent. I tried in vain to get the
+Foreign Department to back up my request, but could not induce them to
+interfere on my behalf, so I took the responsibility on myself, and
+sent a formal demand to the Maharajah to send a high officer&mdash;a
+major commanding a regiment&mdash;to meet me on the road, and to meet
+me himself in state at a suitable distance from the capital. The result
+will be described.</p>
+<p>All being ready we left Shillong, my wife, nurse and children on
+men&rsquo;s backs as before, for Cherra Poojee, where we arrived the
+second day; thence, on the third day, we went to Thuria Gh&acirc;t, on
+by boat <i>vi&acirc;</i> Bholagunj, to Sylhet and Cachar. We reached
+Cachar on October 17th, after passing the historical fort of
+Budderpore, where a battle was fought with the Burmese in 1825, and
+settled down in the bungalow of our kind friend Major Boyd who was
+away. Our coolies arrived on October 18th, and we again packed our
+things and prepared to depart on our final march.</p>
+<p>We left Cachar for Manipur on October 20th, my wife and the nurse
+and boys in &ldquo;doolies,&rdquo; a kind of tray four feet long by two
+in width, with sides and ends eight inches in height, supported by two
+long <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb62" href="#pb62" name=
+"pb62">62</a>]</span>poles running along the bottom of each side, and
+slung at each end to loose bars of wood carried on men&rsquo;s
+shoulders. The passenger sits inside as best he can, and there is a
+light matting roof thrown over to protect him from the weather. To
+begin with, it is an uncomfortable and shaky conveyance, but in time
+one gets accustomed to it.</p>
+<p>Our baggage was carried mostly on men&rsquo;s backs, each load
+varying from sixty to seventy pounds in weight. Altogether we had, I
+daresay, one hundred coolies, as everything we required for a ten
+days&rsquo; journey had to be carried, in addition to personal baggage
+and stores for our use on arrival. I had provided a tent in case of
+need, but did not use it, as rude huts were provided for us at all the
+stages along the road. Our first halt was at Luckipore, in British
+territory, and, as usual, the first march was the most trying; for
+servants, coolies, etc., have to learn each other&rsquo;s ways. I had
+an escort of one hundred men of the 35th Native Infantry, under a
+subadar, as it was expected that I might have to go on an expedition
+soon after my arrival, and these men had their own special coolies, so
+we were a large party altogether.</p>
+<p>We halted at Luckipore, as I have said, a few miles from the Hoorung
+Hills and at Jeree Gh&acirc;t. Next day we left British territory and
+entered Manipur, where we found some huts built for our accommodation.
+At Jeree Gh&acirc;t the really interesting part of the journey
+commenced; thence, till Bissenpore in the valley of Manipur is reached,
+the traveller marches day after day over hills and across rivers. The
+first day from Jeree Gh&acirc;t we crossed the Noon-jai-bang
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb63" href="#pb63" name=
+"pb63">63</a>]</span>range, the summit of which is 1800 to 1900 feet
+above the sea from whence a fine view of the next range, Kala Naga or
+in Manipuri, Wy-nang-nong, is obtained. The road which was made under
+the superintendence of Captain (afterwards Colonel) Guthrie, of the
+Bengal Engineers between 1837 and 1844, at the joint expense of the
+British and Manipuri Governments, the former paying the larger share,
+was excellent for foot passengers and pack animals, but not wide enough
+and too steep for wheeled traffic on a large scale.</p>
+<p>After descending from Noong-jai-bang we halted on the banks of the
+Mukker river amidst splendid forest, and next day ascended the Kala
+Naga range and halted on the crest close to a Manipuri guard house at a
+height of 3400 feet.</p>
+<p>From this spot a magnificent view of the plains of Cachar is
+obtained, and in fine weather, far beyond them the Kasia hills in the
+neighbourhood of Cherra Poojee may be descried. The scene at sunset is
+sometimes magnificent. In the foreground the dark forests, and in the
+far distance a huge bank of golden clouds with their reflection in the
+watery plain, and a mingled mass of colours, green fields, purple,
+crimson, red and gold, all mixed up in such a way as no painter would
+ever attempt to copy. As the sun sinks those colours change and
+re-arrange themselves every minute in quick succession, and when at
+last night closes in, the impression left on the mind is one of
+never-ending wonder and admiration.</p>
+<p>From Kala Naga to the Bar&acirc;k river is a very stiff descent,
+calculated to shake the knees of an inexperienced hill-walker, and many
+is the toe-nail lost <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb64" href="#pb64"
+name="pb64">64</a>]</span>by the pressure of one&rsquo;s boots. Here as
+at the Mukker and other rivers farther on, the Bar&acirc;k is crossed
+by cane suspension bridges, which vibrate and move at every step. In
+the dry season these rivers are crossed by very cleverly constructed
+bamboo pontoon bridges, but when the rainy season has commenced, they
+become raging torrents, which nothing but a fish could live in, and but
+for the suspension bridges, all communication with the outer world
+would be cut off. The bridge over the Eerung river was one hundred
+yards in length, and like all the others, was, when I first went to
+Manipur, constructed entirely of cane and bamboo, and could by great
+exertions, be finished in three days. During my period of office, wire
+ropes were substituted for the two main cables on which all rested, and
+the strength of the bridges greatly increased thereby. It was an
+important part of my duty to see that both roads and bridges were kept
+in order.</p>
+<p>Our march was interesting but uneventful. We started after breakfast
+and generally reached our halting place in time for a late luncheon or
+afternoon tea. Wherever we halted we had a hut to live in, generally in
+some picturesque spot, one day giving a splendid view of hill and
+valley with nothing but forests in view, on another we were perched on
+a hill overlooking the beautiful Kowpoom valley, a sheet of
+cultivation. At last, on the ninth day after crossing the Lai-metol
+river, and ascending the Lai-metol, we had our first view of the valley
+of Manipur<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1289src" href="#xd20e1289" name=
+"xd20e1289src">1</a> spread out like a huge map at our feet. Seen as it
+was by us at the end of the rainy season, and from a <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb65" href="#pb65" name="pb65">65</a>]</span>height
+of 2600 feet above it, is a vast expanse of flat land bordered by
+hills, and mostly covered with water, through which the rice crops are
+vigorously growing. To the south the Logtak lake is visible, with
+several island hills in it, while far away to the north-east might be
+seen the glittering roofs of the temples of Imphal, the capital. It
+requires time to take in the view and to appreciate it. In the dry
+season it looks very different with brown, dried-up hills in the place
+of green.</p>
+<p>The valley of Manipur possesses a few sacred groves, left, according
+to the universal aboriginal custom, throughout all parts of India that
+I have visited, for the wood spirits, when the land was first cleared;
+but no natural forest. These groves are little isolated patches of
+forest dotted here and there; the villages have plenty of planted
+trees, many of great antiquity, and from the heights above they have
+the appearance of woodland covered with grass. Besides this, all is one
+sheet of cultivation or waste covered with grass. It was once entirely
+cultivated, that is, before the Burmese invasion of 1819, when the
+population of the valley, was from 500 to 1000 per square mile.</p>
+<p>We halted to rest on the summit of the Lai-metol, and then
+descended, passing sometimes under a kind of wild apple tree with very
+eatable fruit, and once through a lovely grove of oak trees, called
+&ldquo;Oui-ong-Moklung,&rdquo; and then, still far below us, saw some
+elephants sent for us by the Maharajah. These elephants were posted at
+Sebok Tannah,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1300src" href="#xd20e1300"
+name="xd20e1300src">2</a> a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb66" href=
+"#pb66" name="pb66">66</a>]</span>police station where the ground
+begins to grow level, and a mile farther brought us to Bissenpore,
+where there was a rude rest house. Here we halted for the night.</p>
+<p>I have mentioned my demand that I should be met with proper
+ceremony. It was of course stoutly resisted, every argument founded on
+old custom, etc., being used against it. However, I stood firm, and
+absolutely refused to go beyond Bissenpore, till the Maharajah gave me
+an assurance that he would do all I required. In the end he gave in,
+and a day before reaching that place, his uncle met me on the road with
+a letter saying that all should be done as I wished. This official, by
+name Samoo Major, became a great friend of mine, and remained so till I
+finally left; he is, alas, I believe, now a prisoner in the Andamans,
+having been supposed to be implicated in the rising in 1891.</p>
+<p>The next day we left Bissenpore in good time, and marched the
+seventeen miles to the capital, halting half-way at Phoiching, where I
+was met by some officials. Farther on, some of still higher rank came
+to greet me, and finally, at the entrance to the capital, I was met by
+the Maharajah himself, surrounded by all his sons. A carpet was spread
+with chairs for him and myself, we both of us having descended from our
+elephants, advanced and met in the centre of the carpet, and having
+made our salutations (a salute of eleven guns was fired in my honour),
+we sat and talked for two minutes. We then mounted, the
+Maharajah&rsquo;s elephant being driven by his third son, the master of
+the elephants; and we rode together through the great bazaar, till our
+roads diverged at <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb67" href="#pb67"
+name="pb67">67</a>]</span>the entrance to the fortified enclosure to
+the palace, where we took leave of each other, and he went home, and I
+went to the Residency, which I reached at four o&rsquo;clock, my wife
+and children having made a short cut.</p>
+<p>The Residency then was a low and dark bungalow built of wattle and
+daub, and thatched. It had one large room in the centre, and a bedroom
+on either side with a small semicircular room in front and rear of the
+centre room; there was one bathroom (I speedily added more), and
+verandahs nearly all round. There were venetians to the windows, but no
+glass, and the house was very dark and very full of mosquitoes.
+However, all had been done by the Residency establishment to make the
+place comfortable, and we were too old travellers and too accustomed to
+rough it, to grumble. The house might be rude and uncomfortable, but
+some of my happiest days were spent in it. The building was at the end
+of a garden, with some nice mango, and other trees here and there, and
+had a little more ground attached to it, but we were on all sides
+surrounded by squalid villages and filthy tanks and cesspools, and the
+situation was very low, though well drained. Our English nurse grumbled
+incessantly, but we had engaged in advance, a nice pleasant Naga woman,
+named Chowkee, to help her, and soon made everything right for the
+night, but the mosquitoes were terrible, and though my life has been
+spent in countries swarming with them, I give Manipur the palm, it
+beats all others!</p>
+<p>No European lady or children of pure blood had ever before been seen
+in Manipur, and at first there <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb68"
+href="#pb68" name="pb68">68</a>]</span>was great excitement wherever we
+went, all the population turning out to look at us. By degrees they
+became accustomed to the novelty, but still occasionally people from
+distant villages coming to the capital stopped to stare. Every now and
+then my wife had visits from strange old ladies, often from the Kola
+Ranee, the widow of the last Rajah of Assam, and by birth a Manipuri
+princess, daughter of Rajah Chomjeet, and first cousin of the Maharajah
+Chandra Kirtee Singh. Once an old woman of 106 years of age, with a
+daughter of 76, were visitors, and once or twice some other relic of a
+bygone age called on us. Among the latter was old Ram Singh, the last
+survivor of Wilcox&rsquo;s famous survey expeditions in Assam, in
+1825&ndash;26&ndash;27&ndash;28. Wilcox was one of the giants of old,
+men who with limited resources, did a vast amount of work among wild
+people, and said little about it, being contented with doing their
+duty. In 1828, accompanied by Lieutenant Burton, and ten men belonging
+to the Sudya Khamptis (Shans), he penetrated to the Bor Khamptis
+country, far beyond our borders, an exploit not repeated till after our
+annexation of Upper Burmah. Ram Singh had a great respect for his
+former leader, and loved to talk of old days. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb69" href="#pb69" name="pb69">69</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1289" href="#xd20e1289src" name="xd20e1289">1</a></span> The name
+means beautiful garden.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1300" href="#xd20e1300src" name="xd20e1300">2</a></span> Tannah
+means outpost.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch8" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter VIII.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Visit to the Maharajah&mdash;His minister&mdash;Former
+revolutions&mdash;Thangal Major.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">After a day&rsquo;s rest I paid a visit to the
+Maharajah, having first stipulated as to my proper reception. I was
+received by the Jubraj (heir apparent) at the entrance to the private
+part of the palace, and by the Maharajah a few paces from the entrance
+to the Durbar room (hall of reception), and conducted by him to a seat
+opposite to his own, with a table between us, his sons and officials
+being seated on either side. I read the Viceroy&rsquo;s letter,
+informing the Maharajah of my appointment, and, after a short
+conversation, during which my age was asked (a question invariably put
+to European officers by Manipuris of rank), I took my leave, and was
+escorted back to the place where I was met on my arrival. I was
+favourably impressed by what I saw, but I at once realised that I was
+on no bed of roses, and that I would have to make a good fight to
+obtain and maintain my just influence with the Durbar. The Maharajah
+had undoubtedly grievances against us, and I felt that it was folly and
+injustice not to acknowledge these. At the same time, he and his
+ministers had on some occasions taken advantage of this state of
+affairs to behave in an <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb70" href=
+"#pb70" name="pb70">70</a>]</span>unseemly way, and for this a sharp
+rebuke had to be administered. The natural sense of injustice is strong
+in mankind, and I saw that chafing under slights they had received, and
+often magnifying them, it was necessary for me first to acknowledge
+these, and try as far as possible to make amends, and then to come down
+on them very sharply for having forgotten their position.</p>
+<p>The Maharajah returned my visit, and we had one or two interviews
+when we discussed affairs. I pointed out the extreme gravity of
+resisting the British Government in any way, and we soon became very
+friendly. Colonel McCulloch&rsquo;s introduction had been a great
+advantage to me, and every one was inclined to give me credit for good
+intentions, at the same time that every effort was made to restrict my
+authority and influence.</p>
+<p>The Maharajah was a rather thick-set man of about five feet five
+inches in height and forty-five years of age. In India he would have
+been called fair. He had the features of the Indo-Chinese race, and the
+impassive face that generally goes with them, but which is often not so
+marked in the Manipuris. He was far the ablest man in his dominions,
+and a strong and capable ruler. He had a great taste for mechanical
+arts of all kinds, and a vast fund of information which he had acquired
+by questioning, for he questioned every one he met. English scientific
+works were explained to him, and his researches extended even to the
+anatomy of the human body, of which he had a very fair knowledge. He
+had a taste for European articles, and owned a large assortment. He had
+glass manufactured in his <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb71" href=
+"#pb71" name="pb71">71</a>]</span>workshops, and once sent me a
+petroleum lamp, every portion of which was made by his own artificers.
+His rule, for such a strong man, was mild as compared with that of his
+predecessors, and he thoroughly realised that his prosperity depended
+on his loyalty to the British Government. At the same time, he was most
+tenacious of his rights, and earnestly desired to preserve his country
+intact, and to give us no excuse for annexing it.</p>
+<p>The fear of tempting us to annex was so great that, once when I
+thought of growing a little tea for my own consumption, he was much
+agitated. I, as a matter of courtesy, first sent to ask him if he had
+any objection to my growing a little, and, in reply, he sent an
+official to beg me not to think of it. This man said, &ldquo;The
+Maharajah will supply you with all the tea you want free of cost, but
+begs you not to think of growing it.&rdquo; The officer went on to
+explain, that it was feared that, if I successfully demonstrated that
+tea could be grown in Manipur tea planters would come up, and there
+would be a cry for annexation! Certainly our annexation of the Muttuk
+country in 1840 justified the suspicion, and we cannot blame people for
+having long memories.</p>
+<p>The Jubraj, or heir apparent, was an amiable young man of twenty-six
+or twenty-seven, with a pleasant smile which was wanting in his father.
+He was of a weak character, although possessing some ability. Like his
+father, he could speak Hindoostani, but both were ignorant of English.
+Backed up and influenced by an honest and capable Political Agent, he
+would probably have made an excellent <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb72" href="#pb72" name="pb72">72</a>]</span>ruler, and, had we done
+our duty by him, he might now be at the head of a flourishing little
+state, instead of having died an exile in Calcutta.</p>
+<p>The next son, Wankai Rakpar, afterwards known as the
+&ldquo;Regent&rdquo; during the recent troubles, was an ignorant,
+uncouth boor, who knew no language but his own, and was quite unfitted
+for any responsible work; he took little part in public affairs. The
+third known as Samoo Henjaba (Master of the Elephants), was a clever,
+pleasant, sensible young man, said by Thangal Major, no mean judge of
+character, to be the ablest of the ten sons of the Maharajah. He died
+during my tenure of office.</p>
+<p>The fourth son, Kotwal Koireng, who afterwards acquired an infamous
+reputation as the &ldquo;Senaputtee,&rdquo; was always a bad character,
+cruel, coarse, and low minded. From early childhood he was given to
+foul language, and was absolutely dangerous when he grew up. His mother
+had been unfaithful to the Maharajah, who used to say that the son was
+worthy of her. Colonel McCulloch had always disliked him as a boy.</p>
+<p>None of the other six sons of the Maharajah were in my time mixed up
+in public affairs, so I need not describe them, except that Pucca Senna
+was the champion polo player, though not otherwise worthy of notice.
+The practical ministers were Bularam Singh, or Sawai Jamba Major, and
+Thangal Major. They were both faithful adherents of the Maharajah,
+although the first who had once had much influence had married the
+daughter of the former Rajah Nur Sing. He was nominally the first in
+rank, but <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb73" href="#pb73" name=
+"pb73">73</a>]</span>Thangal Major was rapidly gaining ground, and
+viewed with increasing favour by the Maharajah.</p>
+<p>I quote the following description of the Government of Manipur from
+an article I wrote for <i>The Nineteenth Century</i>, by kind
+permission of the editor. &ldquo;The government of Manipur has always
+been a pure despotism tempered by assassination and revolution. While
+he occupies the throne the rajah is perfectly absolute. A minister may
+be all powerful, and all the princes and people may tremble before him;
+for years he may practically rule the rajah; but he is after all a
+cipher before his sovereign, a single word from whom may send him into
+exile, make him an outcast, or reduce him to the lowest rank. Yet with
+all this power an obscure man may suddenly spring up, as if from the
+ground, to assert himself to be of the blood royal, and gathering a
+large party round him place himself on the throne. All this happened
+not unfrequently in days gone by, when many were the rajahs murdered or
+deposed. History tells us of rajahs being deposed, re-elected, and
+deposed again.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>There can be no doubt that in old days the people benefited by the
+system of constant revolutions, as a rajah was obliged to keep in touch
+with his subjects if he wished to occupy the throne for any length of
+time, and many concessions were made to gain a strong following. The
+average intelligence of the Manipuris being higher than that found
+among the cultivators of many other native states, the people knew what
+reforms to ask for, and often insisted on their being granted.</p>
+<p>Nothing can be harder on the people of a native <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb74" href="#pb74" name="pb74">74</a>]</span>state,
+than for the paramount power to hold a ruler on the throne with a firm
+grasp, and protect him against internal revolution, and at the same
+time to refrain from insisting on needful reform.</p>
+<p>Chandra Kirtee Singh&rsquo;s long reign and strong government, were
+in many ways a great benefit to the people, because he was a man of
+sound sense, and though selfish and unscrupulous, naturally of a kindly
+disposition, a fact proved by the few executions that took place in his
+reign. In his earlier years he had the benefit of Colonel
+McCulloch&rsquo;s good advice, enforced by his great influence. All the
+same there can be no doubt that a little more interference judiciously
+applied, would have vastly improved the state of affairs during the
+time he occupied the throne. Of course an individual Political Agent
+might bring about improvements in the administration, but these all
+rested on his personal influence and lasted only while he remained. Had
+the Government of India stepped in and exerted its authority they would
+have been permanent.</p>
+<p>Bularam Singh was a typical Manipuri in face and had good manners,
+but he had no force of character, and gradually yielded to his more
+able colleague. He was generally known as the Toolee-Hel major,
+<i>i.e.</i>, the major or commander of the Hel regiment.</p>
+<p>Thangal Major was a remarkable character, and had a chequered
+history. His uncle had saved the life of Rajah Ghumbeer Singh (Chandra
+Kirtee Singh&rsquo;s father), then a child, when his older brother
+Marjeet attempted the murder of all his relations. Thangal Major was
+one of the props of the throne <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb75"
+href="#pb75" name="pb75">75</a>]</span>when Ghumbeer Singh ascended it.
+He had been introduced at Court at an early age, and accompanied the
+Rajah in an expedition against the village of Thangal inhabited by a
+tribe of Nagas. He was given the name Thangal in memory of the event.
+He accompanied the old Ranee with her infant son Chandra Kirtee Singh
+into exile, when she fled after attempting the Regent Nursing&rsquo;s
+life while he was engaged in worship in the temple of Govindjee in
+1844; had stayed with him and carefully watched over his childhood and
+youth. When in 1850 the young Rajah came to Manipur to assert his
+rights, Thangal accompanied him and greatly contributed to his success.
+This naturally made him a favourite, and his bold, active, energetic
+character always brought him to the front when hard or dangerous work
+had to be done. For a time he fell into disfavour, but Colonel
+McCulloch, recognising his strong and useful qualities, and the fact
+that he was an exceedingly able man, interceded for him with the
+Maharajah, and he again came to the front. In person he was short and
+thickset, darker than the average of Manipuris, with piercing eyes and
+rather a prominent nose, a pleasant and straightforward but abrupt
+manner, and, though a very devoted and patriotic Manipuri, was
+extremely partial to Europeans. He knew our ways well, and soon took a
+man&rsquo;s measure. He was acquainted with every part of Manipur, and,
+though ignorant of English, could point out any village in the state,
+on an English map. In fact, he had studied geography in every branch to
+enable him to defend the cause of Manipur against the survey officers
+who were suspected by <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb76" href="#pb76"
+name="pb76">76</a>]</span>the Manipuris of wishing to include all they
+could within British territory. He knew all our technical terms such as
+&ldquo;watershed&rdquo; in English, and had gained much credit for
+enabling the survey to carry on their work in 1872, when the patriotic
+but ill-judged zeal of an older officer, Rooma Singh, nearly brought
+about a rupture. Thangal Major&rsquo;s knowledge of us and our customs,
+as well as of our moral code, was astonishing. He realised the power of
+the British Government, and though he would resist us to the utmost in
+the interests of Manipur, nothing would have induced him to join in any
+plot against our rule in India. When I say that he was unscrupulous and
+capable of anything, I only say that he was what circumstances and
+education had made him, and would make any man under similar
+conditions. He had not the polish of a native of Western India, and had
+not had the advantage of English training that many ministers in other
+states have. The internal administration of Manipur had never been
+interfered with by us, and Thangal Major was the strong able man of the
+old type. A strong and capable political agent might do well with him,
+but a weak one would soon go to the wall. He commanded the Toolee
+Nehah, and was often called by that title, but was better known as
+Thangal Major.</p>
+<p>One of my predecessors had quarrelled with Thangal Major, and this
+had led to recrimination, and very unseemly conduct on the part of the
+Durbar. This conduct I had rebuked as directed, but it was a question
+as to how Thangal Major was to be dealt with. I was authorised to
+demand his <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb77" href="#pb77" name=
+"pb77">77</a>]</span>dismissal from office, and for some time he had
+not been received by my two immediate predecessors. I made careful
+inquiries, and feeling convinced that there was a good deal to be said
+on Thangal&rsquo;s side, and that by careful management I should be
+able to keep him well in hand, I sent for him. The old man, he was then
+sixty, having been born in 1817, came in a quiet unostentatious way,
+and after a severe rebuke, and receiving an ample apology from him, I
+forgave him, and restored him to the position of minister in attendance
+upon me; and thenceforth I saw him daily, generally for an hour or
+two.</p>
+<p>In addition to the Minister, two Subadars, Lowremba and Moirang,
+were placed in attendance on me, but as time went on, and I and the
+Durbar became friends, we transacted business in a friendly way,
+through any one. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb78" href="#pb78" name=
+"pb78">78</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch9" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter IX.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Manipur&mdash;Early history&mdash;Our connection with
+it&mdash;Ghumbeer Singh&mdash;Burmese war.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Manipur consists of about 8000 square miles, chiefly
+hills surrounding a valley 650 square miles in extent. This valley from
+north to south is about 35 miles, and from east to west 25. The capital
+Imphal, as it formerly existed, was a large mass of villages looking
+like a forest from the neighbouring heights, and covering about 15
+square miles. Every house was in the centre of its own well-planted
+garden, and every garden contained a few forest trees. The census of
+1881 gave the population of the capital as 60,000, that of the rest of
+the valley an equal number, while the hills were estimated to have
+100,000. It was only in the capital that pure Manipuris lived, except
+the soldiers in the military posts which were scattered all over the
+country.</p>
+<p>The valley itself is 2600 feet above the sea, and the hills rise on
+an average to an equal height above it, though here and there some of
+the distant peaks are 10,000 to 12,000 feet in height. Thus Manipur
+contains within its borders a variety of climate from almost tropical,
+to a greater cold than that of England. The heat is never very
+excessive in the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb79" href="#pb79" name=
+"pb79">79</a>]</span>valley, and for eight months in the year it is
+most enjoyable. Foreigners suffer much from bronchial affections,
+doubtless owing to the waterlogged soil, but these complaints are not
+more prevalent among the native population than elsewhere, and if
+sanitary laws were properly observed, the valley might be a most
+healthy place and the population would rapidly overflow.</p>
+<p>The capital is almost intersected by the 25th parallel north
+latitude, and 95&deg; east longitude, and is 132 miles by road from
+Silchar, the capital of Cachar, and 70 from Tamu in the Kubo valley.
+The valley of Manipur forms the centre of a chain of valleys, viz.,
+Cachar, Manipur, and Kubo, connecting Bengal with Burmah proper. The
+sides of the hills facing the valley of Manipur are generally covered
+with grass or scant jungle which rapidly dries up as the cold season
+advances, but when once the crest is passed, a fine forest is reached;
+except where the hill-tribes have destroyed it, to raise one crop and
+then let it relapse into grass and scrub. Alas, I have seen noble oak
+forests laid low and burned for this purpose. It is an abominable
+custom, and nothing can justify our permitting it where we hold sway.
+That it is not necessary is shown by the Angamis and some of the
+Tankhool tribes, who though they do occasionally indulge in this
+wasteful cultivation are quite independent of it, as they terrace their
+hillsides and cultivate the same tract for generations. The forests of
+Manipur are plentifully supplied with fine timber trees; several
+varieties of oak and chestnut exist, and many others unknown in England
+such as Woo-Ningtho, an excellent timber said to resist <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb80" href="#pb80" name="pb80">80</a>]</span>the
+ravages of white ants; wang, which can be worked in its green state as
+it never warps; teak, etc. Fir trees are found in abundance to the
+south, east, and north-east of the valley, and bamboos of many kinds,
+including the giant, are plentiful.</p>
+<p>Rhododendrons and wild azaleas of several kinds, as well as many
+species of brilliant orchids, add greatly to the beauty of the forests,
+and in some parts tree ferns are abundant. I know nothing more lovely
+in the world, than some of the forest scenery of Manipur with its
+solemn stillness.</p>
+<p>The early history of Manipur is lost in obscurity, but there can be
+no doubt that it has existed as an independent kingdom from a very
+early period. In the days when the Indian branch of the Aryan race was
+still in its progressive and colonising stage, this district was
+repeatedly passed over by one wave after another of invaders, intent on
+penetrating into the remotest parts of Burmah. We have no means of
+ascertaining what government it had before the year 700 <span class=
+"sc">A.D.</span>, but it is believed that a monarchy prevailed at that
+era. About the year 1250 <span class="sc">A.D.</span>, a large Chinese
+force invaded the country, and was signally defeated; all who were not
+killed being made prisoners. These taught the Manipuris silk culture,
+and a number of them were settled at Susa Rameng in the valley, where
+they have still descendants. The Chinese also taught the art of
+brick-making, and erected two solid blocks of masonry in the palace,
+between which the road to the Lion Gate passed. These blocks were
+levelled with the ground by the Burmese invaders, but rebuilt on the
+old foundations by Ghumbeer Singh. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb81"
+href="#pb81" name="pb81">81</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Manipur in old days possessed a famous breed of ponies, larger and
+better bred <span class="corr" id="xd20e1411" title=
+"Source: that">than</span> the so-called Burmese ponies that come from
+the Shan states. On these ponies were mounted the formidable cavalry
+that in the last century made Manipur feared throughout Upper Burmah,
+and enabled her rulers on more than one occasion, to carry their
+victorious arms within sight of Ava, where their Rajah Pamheiba erected
+a stone pillar to commemorate the event. The cavalry used the regular
+Manipuri saddle protecting the legs, and were armed with spears and two
+quivers of darts. These darts in a retreat were grasped by a loop and
+swung round in a peculiar way, when the shaft formed of peacock
+feathers with an iron head suddenly became detached, and flying with
+great force inflicted a fatal wound wherever it struck. A skilful man
+could throw them with great precision.</p>
+<p>The territories of Manipur varied according to the mettle of its
+rulers. Sometimes they held a considerable territory east of the
+Chindwin river in subjection, at other times only the Kubo valley, a
+strip of territory, inhabited, not by Burmese, but by Shans, and lying
+between Manipur proper and the Chindwin. Again they were driven back
+into Manipur proper. For the greater part of the last century, the Kubo
+valley unquestionably belonged to Manipur, and it was never in any
+sense a Burmese province, being, when not under Manipur, a feudatory of
+the great Shan kingdom of Pong.</p>
+<p>In the middle of the last century one of those extraordinary men who
+appear from time to time in the East, destined to shine like a blazing
+meteor, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb82" href="#pb82" name=
+"pb82">82</a>]</span>imparting exceeding brilliancy to their country,
+and then as suddenly vanishing, so that it returns to its original
+obscurity, appeared in Burmah. His name, Along Pra, has been corrupted
+by us into Alompra, by which he is always known. He speedily raised
+Burmah to a commanding position. The kingdom of Pong was overthrown and
+its territories mostly annexed, Pegu was conquered, our district of
+Chittagong threatened, and Siam forced to relinquish several coveted
+possessions. The war fever did not die with Alompra, and in 1817 and
+1819 Assam and Manipur were respectively invaded, internal dissensions
+having bred traitors, who, in both countries, made the path of the
+invaders easy. But the master spirit was gone, and when we appeared
+upon the scene, they could make no efficient stand. Had we then marched
+to Ava, the Burmese Empire would have collapsed like a house of cards,
+and the events of 1885 been anticipated by sixty years. As it was, we
+did not realise our strength and the Burmese weakness, and contented
+ourselves with annexing Assam and Cachar and protecting Manipur.</p>
+<p>It is not very evident what the religion of Manipur was in early
+days, but we see no trace of Buddhism. Probably, whatever the belief in
+early years when the people may have been affected by the intermittent
+stream of Aryans passing through, for many centuries no religious rites
+were used before the recent rise of Hindooism, further than to appease
+evil spirits, as is the custom of the surrounding tribes. There can be
+little doubt that some time or other the Naga tribes to the north made
+one of their chiefs Rajah of Manipur, and that his family, while,
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb83" href="#pb83" name=
+"pb83">83</a>]</span>like the Manchus in China and other conquerors,
+adopting the civilisation of the country, retained some of their old
+customs. This is shown in the curious practice at the installation of a
+Rajah, when he and the Ranee appear in Naga costume; also that he
+always has in his palace a house built like a Naga&rsquo;s, and
+wherever he goes he is attended by two or three Manipuris with Naga
+arms and accoutrements. I once told a Manipuri what I thought on the
+subject, and he was greatly struck by it, and admitted the force of
+what I said.</p>
+<p>Towards the middle of the last century, for some reason or other, a
+great Hindoo revival took place in the East of India. Assam was once
+Hindoo but had long become Buddhist under its Ahom kings, and now
+became converted to Hindooism, by Brahmins from Bengal. All
+difficulties were smoothed over, and converts were made by tens of
+thousands. It is to be regretted that it was so, as these
+&ldquo;converts&rdquo; quickly deteriorated. The easy conquest of
+Hindooised Assam by the Burmese, when Buddhist Assam had successfully
+resisted a powerful army sent by Arungzebe from India and composed
+largely of recruits from Central Asia, seems proof of it, if all other
+evidence were wanting.</p>
+<p>The process of conversion in Manipur began a generation later than
+in Assam, and proceeded on somewhat different lines, but it was not
+less effective, and was still going on at a late date. It had not the
+same deteriorating effect, for the Rajahs assumed to themselves a
+position greater than that of High Pontiff, and could at any time by
+their simple fiat have changed the religion of the country and degraded
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb84" href="#pb84" name=
+"pb84">84</a>]</span>all the Brahmins, in fact all admissions to the
+Hindoo pale from the outer world of unorthodoxy were made by the Rajah
+himself. Sometimes the inhabitants of a village were elevated <i>en
+masse</i> from the level of outcasts, to that of Hindoos of pure caste,
+but more often single individuals were &ldquo;converted.&rdquo; A man
+belonging to a hill-tribe, for instance, could, if the Rajah chose, at
+any time receive the sacred thread of the twice-born castes, and on
+payment of a small sum of money be admitted as a Hindoo and was
+thenceforth called a Khetree.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1434src" href=
+"#xd20e1434" name="xd20e1434src">1</a> This privilege was not accorded
+to Mussulmans. I once asked a Manipuri why they received hill-men and
+not Mussulmans, both being Mlechas,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1437src"
+href="#xd20e1437" name="xd20e1437src">2</a> according to Hindoo theory.
+He said it was because the hill people had sinned in ignorance, whereas
+Mussulmans knew the evil of their ways.</p>
+<p>Of course, every one who knows anything of Hindooism is aware that
+theoretically a man must be born a Hindoo, and that proselytism is not
+admitted. Practically, however, this rule is ignored on the eastern
+frontier, and all along it from Sudya down to Chittagong, where
+conversions are daily taking place. I remember villages in Assam where
+caste was unknown thirty-five years ago, but where now the people live
+in the odour of sanctity as highly orthodox and bigoted Hindoos.
+Strange to say, the pure Hindoos of the North-West Provinces
+acknowledge the pretensions of these spurious converts sufficiently so
+as to allow of their drinking water brought by them. It is probably
+easier to take the people at their own valuation than to carry water
+one&rsquo;s self from a distance when tired. By the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb85" href="#pb85" name=
+"pb85">85</a>]</span>religious law of the Hindoos, it is forbidden to
+eat or drink anything touched by one of another tribe.</p>
+<p>Our first relations with Manipur date from 1762, when Governor
+Verelst of the Bengal Presidency&mdash;with that splendid self-reliance
+and large-mindedness characteristic of the makers of the British Indian
+Empire, men who acted instead of talking, and were always ready to
+extend our responsibilities when advisable&mdash;entered into a treaty
+with the Rajah of Manipur. As this treaty came to nothing, practically
+our connection with the little state really dates from 1823. It had
+been invaded by the Burmese in 1819, and its people driven out or
+carried off into slavery in Burmah. The royal family were
+fugitives.</p>
+<p>At that time Sylhet was our frontier station, and our relations with
+the Burmese, who were at the highest pitch of their power, were daily
+becoming more strained. On our side of the frontier we were ably
+represented by Mr. David Scott, agent to the Governor-General, and
+preparations were being made for the inevitable struggle. One day a
+young Manipuri prince waited on Mr. Scott and asked leave to raise a
+Manipuri force to fight on our side. He was short and slight, and of
+indomitable courage and energy, and the agent to the Governor-General
+recognising his ability, allowed him to raise 500 men. These were soon
+increased to 2000, cavalry, infantry and artillery. Two English
+officers, Captain F. Grant and Lieutenant R. B. Pemberton, were
+attached to the force, thenceforth called the Manipur Levy, to drill
+and discipline it.</p>
+<p>In 1825 a general advance was made all along our line, Cachar was
+invaded and subdued, and we <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb86" href=
+"#pb86" name="pb86">86</a>]</span>essayed to pursue the enemy into
+Manipur and thence into Burmah, but our transport arrangements failed.
+Hitherto we had been accustomed to wars in the arid plains of India,
+and our military authorities did not realise the necessities of an
+expedition into the eastern jungles. Hence, camels and bullocks were
+sent to dislocate their limbs in the tenacious mud and swamps of
+Cachar, and when the advance into Manipur was desired, our regular
+troops were powerless. At this crisis the Manipur Levy showed its
+immense value. The men could move lightly equipped without the
+paraphernalia of a regular army, and advance they did, and with such
+effect that in a short time not only was Manipur cleared, but the enemy
+driven out of the Kubo valley. Later on, Ghumbeer Singh was recognised
+as Rajah of Manipur, and the Kubo valley was included within his
+territories.</p>
+<p>Manipur at this time contained only 2000 inhabitants, the miserable
+remnants of a thriving population of at least 400,000, possibly
+600,000, that existed before the invasion. Ghumbeer Singh&rsquo;s task
+was to encourage exiles to return, and to attempt to rebuild the
+prosperity of his little kingdom. He was a wise and strong though
+severe ruler, and though he owed his throne greatly to his own efforts,
+he to the last retained the deepest feelings of loyalty and gratitude
+to the British Government, promptly obeying all its orders and doing
+his utmost to impress the same feeling on all his officers.</p>
+<p>As is always the case, though we had carried all before us in the
+war, we began to display great weakness afterwards. We had an agent,
+Colonel Burney, at Ava, and the Burmese who were not <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb87" href="#pb87" name="pb87">87</a>]</span>disposed
+to be at all friendly, constantly tried to impress on him the fact that
+all difficulties and disputes would be at an end if we ceded the Kubo
+valley to them, that territory belonging to our ally Ghumbeer Singh of
+Manipur. Of course the proposal ought to have been rejected with scorn,
+and a severe snub given to the Burmese officials. The advisers of the
+Government of India, however, being generally officers brought up in
+the Secretariat, and with little practical knowledge of Asiatics, the
+manly course was not followed. It was not realised that a display of
+self-confidence and strength is the best diplomacy with people like the
+Burmese, and with a view to winning their good-will we basely consented
+to deprive our gallant and loyal ally of part of his territories. An
+attempt was made to negotiate with him, but Major Grant said, &ldquo;It
+is no use bargaining with Ghumbeer Singh,&rdquo; and refused to take
+any part in it. He was asked what compensation should be given, and he
+said 6000 sicca rupees per annum.</p>
+<p>When Ghumbeer Singh heard the final decision he quietly accepted it,
+saying, &ldquo;You gave it me and you can take it away. I accept your
+decree.&rdquo; The proposed transfer was very distasteful to many of
+the inhabitants, including the Sumjok (Thoungdoot) Tsawbwa,<a class=
+"noteref" id="xd20e1462src" href="#xd20e1462" name="xd20e1462src">3</a>
+but they were not consulted. The Kubo valley was handed over to the
+Burmese on the 9th of January, 1834, and on that day Ghumbeer Singh
+died in Manipur of cholera. Perhaps he was happy in the hour of his
+death, as he felt the treatment of our Government most severely.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb88" href="#pb88" name=
+"pb88">88</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1434" href="#xd20e1434src" name="xd20e1434">1</a></span> Probably
+a corruption of Khatyra.</p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1437" href="#xd20e1437src" name="xd20e1437">2</a></span>
+<i>I.e.</i> Unclean.</p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1462" href="#xd20e1462src" name="xd20e1462">3</a></span>
+Mentioned frequently later on. In August, 1891, he was a fugitive from
+the British Government, hiding himself on the Chinese
+frontier.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch10" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter X.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of him&mdash;Nur
+Singh and attempt on his life&mdash;McCulloch&mdash;His wisdom and
+generosity&mdash;My establishment&mdash;Settlement of frontier
+dispute.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Ghumbeer Singh did much for Manipur during his
+comparatively short reign. He made all the roads in his territory safe,
+and subdued the different hill-tribes who had asserted their
+independence during the troubles with Burmah. Imphal, the old capital,
+had not been re-occupied, though the sacred spot where the temple of
+Govindjee stood was cared for; but a new palace had been built at
+Langthabal at a distance of three and a half miles from Imphal where
+several fine masonry buildings were erected, and a canal dug for the
+annual boat races. Langthabal<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1476src" href=
+"#xd20e1476" name="xd20e1476src">1</a> was deserted in 1844 and the old
+site re-occupied, and in my time, the buildings at Langthabal were
+picturesque ruins, having been greatly injured by time and the
+earthquakes of 1869 and 1880. Ghumbeer Singh left an infant son,
+Chandra Kirtee Singh who was two years of age at his father&rsquo;s
+death and a distant cousin, Nur Singh, was appointed Regent. Contrary
+to all precedent, the Regent was loyal to his charge and governed well
+and ably for the infant <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb89" href=
+"#pb89" name="pb89">89</a>]</span>prince, in spite of constant attempts
+to overthrow his government. In 1844, the Queen-Mother wishing to
+govern herself, attempted to procure Nur Singh&rsquo;s murder as he was
+at prayers in the temple. She failed and fled with her son the young
+Rajah Chandra Kirtee Singh to British territory. The Regent then
+proclaimed himself Rajah with the consent of all the people. The
+Manipur Levy had been maintained up till 1835 when the Government of
+India withdrew their connection from it, and ceased to pay the men.
+Major Grant left Manipur, and Captain Gordon, who had been adjutant
+since 1827, was made Political Agent of Manipur. Captain Pemberton had
+long since been on special survey duty.</p>
+<p>Captain Gordon died in December 1844. He was much liked and long
+remembered by the people whom he had greatly benefited, among other
+ways by introducing English vegetables, and fruits. He was succeeded by
+Lieutenant (afterwards Colonel) McCulloch.</p>
+<p>Rajah Nur Singh died in 1850, and was succeeded by his brother
+Debindro, a weak man, quite unfit for the position. In 1850, young
+Chandra Kirtee Singh invaded the valley with a body of followers,
+Debindro fled, and he mounted the throne without opposition. Up to this
+time the Government of India had always acknowledged the <i>de
+facto</i> Rajah of Manipur, and revolutions with much accompanying
+bloodshed were common. Now, however, McCulloch strongly urged the
+advisability of supporting Chandra Kirtee Singh, and he received
+authority to &ldquo;make a public avowal of the determination of the
+British Government to uphold the present Rajah and <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb90" href="#pb90" name="pb90">90</a>]</span>to
+resist and punish any parties attempting hereafter to dispossess
+him.&rdquo; The Court of Directors of the East India Company, in a
+despatch dated May 5th, 1852, confirmed the order of the Government of
+India and commented thus: &ldquo;The position you have assumed of
+pledged protector of the Rajah, imposes on you as a necessary
+consequence the obligation of attempting to guide him, by your advice,
+but if needful of protecting his subjects against oppression on his
+part; otherwise our guarantee of his rule may be the cause of
+inflicting on them a continuance of reckless tyranny.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>These words of justice and wisdom were steadily ignored by
+successive governments. On no occasion did the Government of India ever
+seriously remonstrate with the Rajah, or make a sustained effort to
+improve his system of administration. The East India Company&rsquo;s
+order became a dead letter, but the resolution to uphold Chandra Kirtee
+Singh bore good fruit, and during his long reign of thirty-five years
+no successful attempt against his authority was ever made, and he on
+his part displayed unswerving fidelity to the British Government.</p>
+<p>I have already mentioned the great work that Colonel McCulloch
+accomplished with regard to the Kukis. This added to his long
+experience, gave him great influence in the State, and when he retired
+from the service in 1861, it was amidst the regrets of the whole
+people. Able, high-minded, respected, and having accomplished a task
+few could even have attempted, he left without honour or reward from
+his Government. How many men of inferior capacity, and quite without
+his old-fashioned <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb91" href="#pb91"
+name="pb91">91</a>]</span>single-minded devotion to duty, are nowadays
+covered with stars! When he left he made every effort to hand over his
+vast power and influence intact to his successor, and to smooth his way
+as much as possible. Had the Government of India exercised the
+slightest tact and discretion in the selection of its agent, he might
+have carried on the good work so ably commenced, and brought Manipur by
+rapid strides into the path of progress. As it was it would have been
+difficult to find an officer more unfitted to succeed Colonel McCulloch
+than the one selected; he was soon involved in difficulties, and after
+a troubled period was ordered by Government to leave at three
+days&rsquo; notice. For a time the agency remained vacant, but the
+Rajah applied for another officer, and Colonel McCulloch was requested
+by the Government to quit his retirement, and again assume charge. He
+did so, and was received with acclamations by Rajah and people, the
+whole State turning out to meet him. His first effort was to restore
+the confidence forfeited by the late political agent, and everything
+went on as smoothly as ever; but, towards the end of 1867, he finally
+retired, staying on a few days after his successor&rsquo;s arrival to
+post him up in his work. This time it would have been thought that some
+judgment would be shown in the selection of an officer for the post;
+but the next political agent was eminently unfitted and for some years
+before his death in 1876, was on very indifferent terms with the
+Durbar.</p>
+<p>During the brief period that elapsed between the last event and my
+taking charge, two different officers held the post. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb92" href="#pb92" name="pb92">92</a>]</span></p>
+<p>My Government establishment consisted of a head clerk, a most
+excellent man, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo; a native doctor, Lachman
+Parshad; native secretary and Manipuri interpreter; Burmese
+interpreter; Naga interpreter; Kuki interpreter; and latterly six
+chuprassies, i.e., orderlies or lictors. As for private servants we had
+three Naga girls, a Mugh cook and assistant, who could turn out a
+dinner equal to any of the London clubs for one hundred people at a
+couple of days&rsquo; notice, and under him I had four young Nagas
+learning their work, as I was determined to do more for my successors
+than my predecessors had done for me, viz., teach and train up a staff
+of servants so as to save the necessity of importing the scum of
+Calcutta. I had an excellent bearer, Horna, as I have already stated,
+and under him were two or three Nagas; <span class="corr" id=
+"xd20e1503" title="Source: washerman">washermen</span>, syces,
+gardeners, water-carriers, etc., made up the number. All my
+interpreters, chuprassies, and servants, I clothed in scarlet livery
+which made a great impression, and gradually the air of squalor which
+prevailed when I arrived began to disappear. I had charge of a
+Government Treasury from which I used to pay myself and the Government
+establishment. The currency of the country was a small bell-metal coin
+called &ldquo;Sel,&rdquo; of which 400 to 480 went to the rupee, also
+current, but copper pice were not used, and all Manipuri accounts were
+kept in &ldquo;Sel.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>At this time the Naga Hills were still under a political officer
+whose actual jurisdiction was limited to the villages which had paid
+tribute to me, as already described. He was supposed to exercise a
+certain influence over many of the large villages, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb93" href="#pb93" name="pb93">93</a>]</span>but the
+influence was lessened by the feeling entertained by the Nagas that our
+stay in the hills was uncertain, and that for all practical purposes
+the Manipuris were the power most to be reckoned with, and from our
+point of view it was very desirable that our headquarter station should
+be removed to Kohima. A dispute with Mozuma, due chiefly to our
+vacillating conduct, was now going on, but its chiefs would not accept
+our terms, and an expedition to coerce them was in preparation in which
+I was to take part. Mr. Carnegy was political officer, a man of ability
+and determination, and very pleasant to deal with. During the dispute
+with Mozuma, the other villages held aloof, thinking Mozuma was able to
+hold its own, and waiting to see which side gained the day.</p>
+<p>Burmah was still under its native rulers. There were constant
+frontier disputes going on between it and Manipur, but that state of
+things was chronic.</p>
+<p>To the south of Manipur, the Chin and Lushai tribes were quiet.</p>
+<p>There was a long standing boundary dispute between Manipur and the
+Naga Hills. The boundary had been most arbitrarily settled by us when
+the survey was carried out, so far as a certain point, beyond that it
+was vague. Manipur claimed territory which we certainly did not
+possess, and which she had visited from time to time, but did not
+actually hold in subjection. Other portions, as I afterwards proved,
+were occupied by her, though the fact had not been ascertained. Over
+and over again efforts had been made to bring the Durbar to terms, but
+without success. I determined to grapple with <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb94" href="#pb94" name="pb94">94</a>]</span>the
+question at once. I took a map and drew a line including all that I
+thought Manipur entitled to, in the neighbourhood of the Naga Hills,
+and advised the Maharajah to accept the arrangement on the
+understanding that when I visited the country claimed further eastward,
+I would recommend the Government of India to allow him to retain all
+that he actually held in his possession. This was agreed to by him and
+confirmed by Government, and I believe that substantial justice was
+done to both parties.</p>
+<p>I should like to have seen Manipur get more, as a set-off against
+our unjust treatment in former years, but as we were sure eventually,
+to occupy all the Naga Hills, it was necessary to make such an
+adjustment as would not injure British interests in the future.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb95" href="#pb95" name=
+"pb95">95</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1476" href="#xd20e1476src" name="xd20e1476">1</a></span> Here a
+British native regiment was stationed, after Sir J. Johnstone&rsquo;s
+retirement, but some time before the troubles of
+1891.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch11" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XI.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">My early days in Manipur&mdash;The capital&mdash;The
+inhabitants&mdash;Good qualities of Manipuris&mdash;Origin of valley of
+Manipur&mdash;Expedition to the Naga Hills&mdash;Lovely
+scenery&mdash;Attack on Kongal Tannah by Burmese&mdash;Return from Naga
+Hills&mdash;Visit Kongal Tannah.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The first few weeks in Manipur were taken up in making
+acquaintance with the place and people, and doing all that was possible
+to disarm the fears of the Durbar. Never was there one so suspicious.
+At first all my movements were watched, and wherever I went spies, open
+or secret, followed; however, I encouraged it to the utmost, and told
+the officials to inquire into everything I did, and they very soon saw
+that there was no necessity for special espionage, though all my acts
+were still noted and reported. Several little difficulties cropped up
+regarding British subjects, and required some care in dealing with
+them. In one case, a man had taken upon himself to intrigue with some
+of the Nagas under Manipur, and urged them to declare themselves
+British subjects, and in another, a man had robbed the Maharajah. In
+both instances the Durbar had acted foolishly and precipitately, though
+under much provocation. However, I turned both men out of the country,
+with orders never to return.</p>
+<p>The question of British subjects and their rights was one that gave
+me much trouble for years. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb96" href=
+"#pb96" name="pb96">96</a>]</span>Judging by a decision of the High
+Court of Calcutta that all the descendants of European British subjects
+were European British subjects, I insisted on all descendants of
+British subjects being considered as such, and subject to my
+jurisdiction. After a long struggle I carried my point, and it very
+greatly strengthened my position.</p>
+<p>A few more words about the capital and the Manipuris may not be
+amiss. Imphal, as has been said,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1536src"
+href="#xd20e1536" name="xd20e1536src">1</a> covered a space of fifteen
+square miles. On the north side it touches on some low hills, called
+Ching-mai-roong, and running westward is bounded by a shallow lake,
+which is partly enclosed by a continuation of the hills, here called
+Langol, on which grows a celebrated cane used for polo sticks. Then,
+running south, it is intersected by several roads, notably the road to
+Silchar, which enters the capital at a place called Kooak-Kaithel
+(<i>i.e.</i> crow bazaar). Here it is bounded by rice cultivation.
+Going farther south, and sweeping round in an easterly direction, it is
+bounded by the Plain of Lang-thabal, at one extremity of which lies the
+old capital; here two rivers intersect it. And going farther east, it
+is bounded by the lower slopes of a hill rising 2500 feet above the
+valley. Then turning to the northward and crossing two rivers, we come
+again to the place from which we started. The want of the town was a
+good water-supply; there were one or two fair-sized tanks, or ponds, as
+they would be called in England, and the afore-mentioned rivers, of
+which the water is not improved by receiving <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb97" href="#pb97" name="pb97">97</a>]</span>the
+ashes of the dead burned on their banks. Beyond this, all the water
+obtainable was derived from small ponds, one or more of which was to be
+found in every garden enclosure. The ground on which the capital stands
+must at one time have been very low, probably a marsh, and it has been
+artificially raised from time to time by digging these tanks; every
+raised road, too, meant a deep stagnant ditch on either side. The
+people are not sanitary in their habits, and when heavy rain falls the
+gardens are flooded, and a fair share of the accumulated filth is
+washed into the drinking-tanks, the result being frequent epidemics of
+cholera.</p>
+<p>The Manipuris themselves are a fine stalwart race descended from an
+Indo-Chinese stock, with some admixture of Aryan blood, derived from
+the successive waves of Aryan invaders that have passed through the
+valley in prehistoric days. It may be this, or from an admixture of
+Chinese blood, but certainly the Manipuris have stable and industrious
+qualities which the Burmese and Shans do not possess. Since then the
+race has been constantly fed by additions from the various hill-tribes
+surrounding the valley. The result is a fairly homogeneous people of
+great activity and energy, <span class="corr" id="xd20e1549" title=
+"Source: w&icirc;th">with</span> much of the Japanese aptitude for
+acquiring new arts. The men seem capable of learning anything, and the
+women are famous as weavers, and in many cases have completely killed
+out the manufacture of cloths formerly peculiar to certain of the
+hill-tribes, over whom the Manipuris have obtained mastery by superior
+intellect. They are always cheerful, even on a long and trying march,
+and are good-humoured <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb98" href="#pb98"
+name="pb98">98</a>]</span>under any difficulties and never apparently
+conscious of fatigue. They are very abstemious, and live chiefly on
+rice and fish, which is often rotten from preference. Though rigid
+Hindoos outwardly, they have a curious custom by which a man of low
+caste, marrying a high-caste woman, can be adopted into her tribe, the
+exact reverse of what prevails in India, where a woman of high caste
+marrying a low-caste man is hopelessly degraded and her children
+outcasts.</p>
+<p>It is impossible for those who have marched much in the hills with
+Manipuris to avoid liking them. Their caste prejudices, though rigid,
+give no trouble to others. Hungry or not, they are always ready to
+march, and march all day and all night, if necessary. Still, the
+Indo-Chinese races exceed even the ordinary Asiatic in reserve and
+sphinx-like characteristics, and the Manipuris are an inscrutable set.
+I had many intimate friends among them, yet, on the whole, prefer the
+pure Hindoo.</p>
+<p>What is now the valley of Manipur was evidently once a series of
+valleys and ranges of hills, between the higher ranges which now border
+it and converge to the south. The rivers now flowing through the valley
+then flowed through it like the Barak, Eerung, and others, at a much
+lower level. One of the great earthquakes, to which these regions are
+so subject, closed the outlet and raised a permanent barrier; thus a
+lake was formed, and in the course of ages the alluvium brought down by
+the streams filled it up to its present level leaving the Logtak Lake
+in its lowest part, a lake which has constantly lessened and is still
+lessening in size. The crests of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb99"
+href="#pb99" name="pb99">99</a>]</span>the sunken ranges are still to
+be seen running down the valley, and mostly parallel to the bordering
+ranges, such are Langol, Langthabal, Phoiching, Lokching, and others.
+Sometimes a river, as at a place called &ldquo;Eeroce Semba,&rdquo;
+runs at the base of a hill, and cuts away the alluvium, showing the
+solid rock. This alluvium forms one of the deepest and richest soils in
+the world.</p>
+<p>I have referred to the proposed expedition to the Naga Hills, to aid
+the troops there in the operations against the powerful village of
+Mozuma. In order to take part in this expedition I had brought up one
+hundred men of the 35th Native Infantry, from Cachar, and I started
+from Manipur on December 3rd, 1877, having sent on the 35th and a
+Manipuri force of over three hundred men under the Minister
+<span class="corr" id="xd20e1562" title=
+"Source: Bularem">Bularam</span> Singh. I rode out the first day to
+Mayang Khang, a distance of forty miles, where I caught up my men. I
+passed Sengmai at a distance of thirteen miles on the border of the
+valley, and up to which the road is flat, and soon entered a broken
+country, first grass, then scrub, then forest. The road lay over a
+succession of spurs of the Kowpree Hills which run down into a very
+narrow valley, and was as bad as can be imagined&mdash;very steep
+ascents and descents. At last we reached Kaithemabee, the second stage,
+and fourteen miles from Sengmai. It is exceedingly picturesquely
+situated, having a splendid view of the Kowpree range, here rising to
+over 8000 feet. The outpost is situated on a high bank overlooking a
+stream, and beyond it a splendid rolling slope of grass extending for
+miles.</p>
+<p>All this part of the country is covered with beehive-shaped
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb100" href="#pb100" name=
+"pb100">100</a>]</span>cairns, built of well-selected stones. They are
+said to have been made by the K&ouml;ereng Nagas, formerly a very
+powerful race, whose miserable remnants now inhabit the neighbouring
+hills. Farther on the bee-hives end suddenly, and a region of monoliths
+is entered. Probably both monoliths and bee-hives were erected to
+commemorate great events in the lives of the builders, the death of a
+chief, the birth of a son, the giving of a great feast when a bison, or
+possibly many, were killed. Monoliths are common, and exist all over
+the Naga Hills and among the Kolarian and Dravidian tribes, as well as
+all over Europe. Cairns also are common, but the beehive-shaped cairns
+are, I believe, unique, and found only in Manipur and in this
+neighbourhood.</p>
+<p>I reached Mayung Khang at 4 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, having an
+hour before crossed the watershed, all the streams south of it falling
+into the tributaries of the Chindwin Irrawaddy, all to the north
+running into the tributaries of the Ganges and Burrhampooter.</p>
+<p>Mayung Khang is a highly undulating grassy slope, the Kowpree rising
+to nearly nine thousand feet in the west, while after crossing a small
+stream a lower range closes it in on the east. We halted there for the
+night close to a monolith, and the next day marched to Mythephum.</p>
+<p>Mythephum or Muphum (<i>lit.</i> Manipuri settlement) was a small
+military post, and we encamped below in a wide valley among recently
+cut rice fields, with a river rushing by us. The place is so named from
+having been a Manipuri settlement, in the old days before the Burmese
+invasion. High hills rose above <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb101"
+href="#pb101" name="pb101">101</a>]</span>us on all sides, the valley
+running in and out among them and following the course of the stream.
+To our north, and at a distance of a mile or two, was the once powerful
+village of Muram, still populous but submissive. I had a small but most
+comfortable straw-built hut, and well remember how delightful the early
+morning was next day, when I had breakfast at sunrise and saw my
+thermometer at thirty-two degrees. Only those accustomed to great heat
+realise the delights of a low thermometer. Mythephum is over 4000 feet
+above the sea, and being a low valley is often extremely cold.
+Sometimes in winter the stream is for a day quite choked by blocks of
+ice, and I have seen the thermometer at twenty-six degrees, 150 feet
+above the valley, which probably meant eighteen degrees at the lowest
+level on the grass.</p>
+<p>It was my intention to march on Mozuma by a track which would avoid
+the powerful villages of <span class="corr" id="xd20e1586" title=
+"Source: Viswena">Viswema</span>, Kohima, Jotsuma and Konoma, and
+enable me to attack the enemy in the rear. Half-way I was delayed by
+receiving no letter from Mr. Carnegy, with whom I had to act in
+concert, and this prevented me from reaching the scene of operations,
+as I received the startling news that the Manipuri outpost of Kongal
+Tannah on the borders of the Kubo valley had been attacked on December
+14th by a party of men sent by the Rajah of Sumjok or Thoungdoot, and
+eight men killed. This threw the whole population of Manipur into a
+state of commotion, and the Maharajah begged me to return at once, and
+I felt it my duty to do so, as my chief work was to protect Manipur and
+its interests. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb102" href="#pb102" name=
+"pb102">102</a>]</span>I therefore returned to Manipur on December
+17th, leaving my party on the frontier, where they remained some time
+longer, the Nagas being unwilling to submit; and making overtures
+instead to the Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. He sternly declined
+their offers, and threatened that if they did not speedily yield to the
+British authorities, he would send a large force to our aid.</p>
+<p>The Naga Hills Campaign of that year had no further interest for
+Manipur, and it had a sad ending for us, as Mr. Carnegy was accidently
+shot by a sentry.</p>
+<p>The &ldquo;Kongal outrage,&rdquo; as it was thenceforth called, was
+so serious and so evidently premeditated, that a most thorough inquiry
+was needed. It took some time to collect evidence as wounded men had to
+be brought in, and it was the end of the month before I was able to
+proceed to the spot. At last I started and crossed the Yoma range of
+hills for the first time. What a lovely march it was and what an
+anxious one, as I left my wife not at all well, and no one but an
+ignorant and not very sweet-tempered English nurse to look after her.
+However, duty must come first, and off I started, posting relays of
+ponies on the way to enable me to return quickly when the work was
+done. Thangal Major accompanied me.</p>
+<p>The first part of our march lay across the valley, and we began the
+ascent of the hills at a place called Ingorok. After a wearisome ascent
+of 3500 feet and a more gradual one along the crest, we made a rapid
+descent of 4000 feet to the Turet river, where we encamped. The river
+runs at the bottom of an <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb103" href=
+"#pb103" name="pb103">103</a>]</span>exceedingly narrow valley, and the
+ascent on both sides is one of the most wearisome I have ever made. On
+a dark night lights on the hillside above, appear as stars from the bed
+of the stream. The scenery was majestic, and the vegetation very fine.
+The next day we commenced with a steep ascent of 2500 feet, and ended
+with a descent of 3000 feet to the Maghung river. From the Maghung next
+morning we started for Kongal Tannah, which we reached in good
+time.</p>
+<p>I carefully examined the place and saw the charred remains of the
+murdered men, and many bullets still sticking in the stockade. The
+evidence being complete, I turned homewards, and by travelling
+incessantly reached Manipur next morning to find that my wife had
+presented me with another son, the first pure European child born in
+Manipur. It had been an anxious time for me, and I was thankful to find
+both her and the baby well. We named the baby Arthur.</p>
+<p>I sent a full report of the Kongal case to the Government of India,
+and a demand for reparation was made at the Court of Mandalay, but it
+was not backed up with sufficient vigour. The outrage was unprovoked,
+and nothing less than the execution of the ringleaders, who were well
+known, would have satisfied Manipur, and, indeed, the claims of
+justice, but though the case dragged on for years, no redress was ever
+given. I predicted at the time that failure to do justice would
+eventually lead to underhand reprisals on the part of Manipur, as the
+Durbar could not understand our Government tolerating an attack of this
+kind on a protected state, and naturally ascribed our forbearance to
+weakness. I shall have to refer to the case farther on. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb104" href="#pb104" name="pb104">104</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1536" href="#xd20e1536src" name="xd20e1536">1</a></span> Quoted
+by kind permission of editor from my article in <i>Nineteenth
+Century</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch12" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XII.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Discussions as to New Residency&mdash;Its
+completion&mdash;Annual boat races&mdash;<span class="corr" id=
+"xd20e1611" title=
+"Source: Kangjoopkool">Kang-joop-kool</span>&mdash;Daily
+work&mdash;Dealings with the Durbar.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">I have briefly described the old Residency which was
+rented from the Heir Apparent. Money had been sanctioned for a new
+Residency, to belong to the British Government, but there had been
+squabbles for a long time between my predecessors and the Durbar
+regarding a suitable site. Also such a building as was required could
+only be built with the help of the Durbar whom it was advisable to
+conciliate.</p>
+<p>One of my predecessors wished to build on a small hill called
+&ldquo;Chinga,&rdquo; about a mile from the palace. It was an admirable
+site, and had the position of the Political Agent been <span class=
+"corr" id="xd20e1618" title="Source: similiar">similar</span> to that
+in other Indian States, it could not have been better. But in Manipur,
+the representative of the Government of India was regarded by the
+Maharajah as a powerful prop and support in case of his throne being
+attacked, as was constantly the case in former years. On this ground
+the Durbar objected that it was too far off; also that the place was
+reported to be the residence of an evil spirit inimical to the Royal
+family, so that it was not a convenient spot for the Maharajah to
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb105" href="#pb105" name=
+"pb105">105</a>]</span>visit. So, after many acrimonious disputes, the
+negotiation fell through.</p>
+<p>Another Political Agent chose a site called Ching-mai-roong, which
+in many ways was very satisfactory, and the Durbar reluctantly
+consented to give it, but it was a mile and a half from the palace, and
+therefore much out of the way. The question was still in abeyance when
+I arrived. As soon as I had time, I discussed the matter with the
+Durbar, and found the Maharajah much averse to my removal from the old
+site. He said &ldquo;Where you are now, I can call to you; but if you
+go to a distance, I shall be cut off entirely.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I quite saw the advisability of being on the spot, also in what I
+may call the fashionable quarter of the town; and, as from a sanitary
+point of view, the position was as good as any other, I agreed to stay,
+on condition that all the squalid houses and slums in the neighbourhood
+were cleared away, dirty tanks filled, and others deepened, and a fine
+large space cleared and handed over to me. I further insisted that I
+should have all the assistance necessary in building a suitable
+Residency. My terms were agreed to, and the work put in hand. I
+determined to have a building worthy of the representative of the
+British Government, and sacrificed everything to suitable rooms, and
+sound construction, so that it was not till the end of 1880 that it was
+finished.</p>
+<p>I was greatly indebted to my head clerk, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo,
+who acted as clerk of the works. The result was a charming residence.
+It was in the half-timber style of old English houses, modified to suit
+the climate, all on one floor, but raised on a solid <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb106" href="#pb106" name=
+"pb106">106</a>]</span>brick foundation, which gave a lower storey
+seven feet in height, thus keeping us high and dry, the house being
+approached on four sides by flights of solid masonry steps. The lower
+storey was built so as to be shot proof, as I designed it as a place of
+retreat from stray shot for non-combatants, in the event of the
+Residency being again, as it had been before, subjected to a cross-fire
+from contending parties during one of the many revolutions so common to
+Manipur. Little did I dream that folly, and incompetency would ever
+lead to our being directly attacked!</p>
+<p>The large compound, about sixteen acres in extent, was surrounded by
+a mud breastwork and ditch, quite capable of being defended, if
+necessary, and there were four entrances which I named respectively,
+the Great Gate, the Milking Gate, my cows&rsquo;-shed being close to
+it, the Water Gate and the Kang-joop-kool Gate. I made a riding road
+all round to exercise ponies, and besides making a splendid kitchen
+garden, adding considerably to Colonel McCulloch&rsquo;s, we laid out
+flower beds, and had cool shady spots for the heat of the day. Deodars
+and other exotic trees were imported by me and throve wonderfully. One
+large sheet of water with an island in the centre was cleared,
+deepened, and the banks repaired, and as I never allowed a bird to be
+killed, it was covered in winter with water-fowls to the number of four
+hundred and fifty or five hundred of every kind, from wild geese
+downwards, and rare birds took refuge in the trees. In the north-east
+corner of the compound were the lines for my escort, with a tank of the
+purest drinking water, where formerly squalor <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb107" href="#pb107" name="pb107">107</a>]</span>and
+filth had held sway. Finally I covered most of the large trees with
+beautiful orchids, so that in the season we had a blaze of colour. I
+spared no expense on the garden, and we were rewarded. Altogether the
+Residency and its grounds formed a beautiful and comfortable
+resting-place.</p>
+<p>The new building was also commodious and contained a handsome
+Durbar-room for receptions 24 feet square, fine dining and
+drawing-rooms, very airy and comfortable bedrooms, etc., with an office
+for myself. The pantry was so arranged that cold draughts of air, so
+great a drawback in Indian houses in cold weather, were avoided when
+dinner was being brought in. The bedrooms had fireplaces, and the
+sitting-rooms excellent stoves which in winter were very necessary. The
+shot-proof rooms in the basement were not used, except one for a
+storeroom, and the one under the verandah of the Durbar-room, used as a
+sleeping place by the men of my guard.</p>
+<p>The Great Gate was a picturesque half-timber structure, with rooms
+on either side, one of which I built specially as a pneumonia hospital,
+so it was designed with a view to maintaining an equable temperature,
+pneumonia being a great scourge among newly arrived Hindoostani sepoys.
+Not long after I left, it was diverted to other purposes, being
+considered too good for a hospital!</p>
+<p>&ldquo;With the exception of the Residency, no house when I left
+Manipur, was built of brick, partly from fear of earthquakes, partly on
+account of expense. The ordinary houses of the people are huts with
+wattle and daub or mud walls, those of greater folks <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb108" href="#pb108" name="pb108">108</a>]</span>the
+same, but on a larger scale. Every house has a verandah in front with
+the main entrance leading from it, and a little side door on the north
+side close to the west end, the houses invariably facing east. The
+roofs are all of thatch, with the exception of the Rajah&rsquo;s, which
+was of corrugated iron. There were several temples built of brick
+stuccoed over. One in the palace had an iron roof, another a gilded
+one. I sent some models of these temples and several other buildings to
+the Indian and Colonial Exhibition of 1886, every beam and rafter being
+represented and made according to scale. The larger of the temples had
+bells of a fine deep tone. Some of the approaches to the Rajah&rsquo;s
+dwelling-house were made of brick. Formerly the palace enclosure was
+entered from the front by a quaint and picturesque old gateway, not
+beautiful, but characteristic of Manipur; the old Rajah Chandra Kirtee
+Singh substituted for it a tawdry and fantastic structure with a
+corrugated iron roof, a structure without any merit, and quite out of
+keeping with its surroundings. I remonstrated in vain; shoddy and
+vulgar tastes had penetrated even to Manipur, and the picturesque old
+building that spoke of bygone ages was doomed; but we who have
+destroyed so many fine buildings, have little right to criticise.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Close to the gateway is the place where the grand stand is
+erected, from which the Rajah and his relations view the boat races on
+the palace moat. I say &lsquo;view,&rsquo; as in old age, a Rajah sits
+there all the time; but in the prime of life he takes part in these
+races, steering one of the boats himself. These boat races generally
+take place in September when the moat is full, and are the great event
+of the year. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb109" href="#pb109" name=
+"pb109">109</a>]</span>Every one turns out to see them, the Ranees and
+other female relations being on the opposite side of the moat, for in
+Manipur there is no concealment of women, while the side next to the
+road is thronged with spectators. The boatmen have a handsome dress
+peculiar to the occasion, and the whole scene is highly interesting.
+The boats are canoes hewn out of single trees of great size, and are
+decorated with colour and carving.&rdquo;<a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1648src" href="#xd20e1648" name="xd20e1648src">1</a></p>
+<p>The valley of Manipur is hot and steamy in the rainy season, and
+Colonel McCulloch built a small hut at a place called Kang-joop-kool,
+situated on a spur of the Kowpree range, to the west of the valley at a
+height of 5170 feet above the sea. The distance from the capital was
+fourteen miles, and four from the foot of the hills, and he lived there
+for the whole of the rainy season, except for a few visits to the
+capital. His successors till my time did not stay there much, but I
+bought a small hut from my immediate predecessor, and pulled it down,
+and built a new one far more commodious. I enclosed the land, and laid
+out a small garden, and planted a wood of Khasia pines, the land being
+quite bare, and in time it became a most charming place. It was
+pleasant to leave the ceremonial life at the capital, where I never
+walked out without a train of followers clad in scarlet liveries, and
+settle down quietly at Kang-joop-kool where we could roam about the
+hills as if we had been in England.</p>
+<p>I spent little or no time in sporting, my eyes were never very good,
+and before I came to Manipur had <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb110"
+href="#pb110" name="pb110">110</a>]</span>become so deficient in what
+oculists call power of &ldquo;accommodation,&rdquo; that, though
+formerly a fairly good shot, I was then a bad one. In one way this was
+an advantage, as all my interests were concentrated on my work, and
+nothing of greater interest could have been found. Somehow or other,
+there was subject for conversation with State officials and
+non-officials, to last me from early morning till night, and fill up
+every spare moment. My door was always open, and the guard at the great
+gate had orders to let every one pass. All the minor gates were
+unguarded.</p>
+<p>No attempt was made by the Durbar, as in other native states, to
+bribe the Residency servants, except in one notable case that happened
+before my time. All negotiations were carried on with the Political
+Agent direct, and the penurious Manipuris would have thought it waste
+of money to bribe his servants. This was a very satisfactory state of
+things, and probably saved many unpleasant complications.</p>
+<p>In my dealings with the Durbar, I always tried to bear in mind that
+I was the representative of the strong dealing with the weak, and so to
+ignore little silly acts of self-assertion, such as a native court
+loves to indulge in, and childish ebullitions, as unworthy of notice.
+Whenever it became necessary for me to interfere, I did so with great
+firmness, but always tried to carry the Maharajah and his ministers
+with me, and make any desired reform appear to emanate from him. Except
+on one occasion, I never experienced any rudeness from an official.</p>
+<p>At the same time when any attempt was made to infringe on the rights
+of the British Government or <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb111" href=
+"#pb111" name="pb111">111</a>]</span>its subjects, I spoke in very
+unmistakable language. I think the Durbar gave me credit for good
+intentions and appreciated my desire to work with them; of course they
+tried to get all they could out of me, and it was a daily, but, on the
+whole, friendly struggle between us. I knew perfectly well that to
+exalt themselves, the Court party spoke of me behind my back in
+disparaging terms, and boasted of what they could do, and of their
+independence of the British Government, but I was quite satisfied that
+they did not believe what they said, and that in all important matters
+they deferred to me on every point, and were always coming to me to
+help them out of difficulties. I kept in mind Colonel McCulloch&rsquo;s
+wise saying to the Rajah: &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t care what you say of me,
+so long as you do as I tell you.&rdquo; <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb112" href="#pb112" name="pb112">112</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1648" href="#xd20e1648src" name="xd20e1648">1</a></span> Quoted
+by kind permission of editor from my article in <i>Nineteenth
+Century</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch13" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XIII.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Violent conduct of Prince Koireng&mdash;A
+rebuke&mdash;Service payment&mdash;Advantage of Manipuri
+system<span class="corr" id="xd20e1675" title=
+"Source: . ">&mdash;</span>Customs duty&mdash;Slavery&mdash;Releasing
+slaves&mdash;Chowba&rsquo;s fidelity&mdash;Sepoy&rsquo;s kindness to
+children&mdash;Visit to the Yoma range.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">An incident occurred which might have caused some
+trouble, while it served to show the violent disposition of Kotwal
+Koireng, later known as the Senaputtee. One evening my Naga interpreter
+reported to me that an Angami Naga of Kohima had been cruelly assaulted
+by that prince, while he was passing along the road to the east of the
+palace enclosure. Soon after the man was brought in to me, and an
+examination by my native doctor proved that he was suffering from a
+severe contusion above the right eye, which might or might not prove
+fatal. Now, strictly speaking, the man was not a British subject, but
+some day or other he was sure to be one, and we had assumed an
+indefinite control over his people. This made me feel that passing over
+the offence as one not concerning us, would be to lose prestige with
+Manipur, as well as with the Naga tribes, who ought, I felt, to be
+assured of my sympathy. I therefore at once sent a strong remonstrance
+to the Durbar, claiming the man as a British subject, and demanding
+prompt recognition of, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb113" href=
+"#pb113" name="pb113">113</a>]</span>reparation for the outrage. On
+further investigation it appeared, that the man was with some of his
+friends carrying a large joint of beef on his shoulder just as Kotwal
+Koireng was passing, and a few drops of blood fell on the ground; this
+enraged the Prince so much that he at once attacked the man with a
+thick stick which he carried, and beat him till he was almost
+senseless. There was no real provocation, as eating the flesh of cows
+that had died a natural death was always allowed, and any dead cow was
+at once handed over to the Nagas and other hill-tribes; it was simply
+an outburst of temper. The result was, that until the man&rsquo;s
+recovery was assured, Kotwal was held in a species of arrest; then he
+was released and sent with the Jubraj to make an apology to me; the man
+received a sum of money, and the affair ended amicably. I did not often
+come across the princes, though sometimes I met them out riding, and
+then we were very friendly. Once when I was walking out, I met one of
+the younger ones riding in state on an elephant, he forgot to make the
+usual salutation. This was reported to the Maharajah, who sent him with
+Thangal Major to apologize.</p>
+<p>The Manipuris paid very little revenue in money, and none in direct
+taxes. The land all belonged to the Rajah, and every holding paid a
+small quantity of rice each year. The chief payment was in personal
+service. This system known by the name of &ldquo;Lalloop,&rdquo; and by
+us often miscalled &ldquo;forced labour,&rdquo; was much the same as
+formerly existed in Assam under its Ahom Rajahs. According to it, each
+man in the country was bound to render ten <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb114" href="#pb114" name=
+"pb114">114</a>]</span>days&rsquo; service out of every forty, to the
+Rajah, and it extended to every class in the community. Women were
+naturally exempt, but, among men, the blacksmith, goldsmith,
+carpenters, etc., pursued their different crafts in the Rajah&rsquo;s
+workshops for the stated time, while the bulk of the population, the
+field workers, served as soldiers, and made roads or dug canals, in
+fact executed great public works for the benefit of the state.</p>
+<p>The system was a good one, and when not carried to excess, pressed
+heavily on nobody. It was especially adapted to a poor state sparsely
+populated. In such a state, under ordinary circumstances, where the
+amount of revenue is small, and the rate of wages often comparatively
+high, it is next door to impossible to carry out many much-needed
+public works by payment. On the other hand, every man in India who
+lives by cultivation, has much spare time on his hands, and the
+&ldquo;Lalloop&rdquo; system very profitably utilises this, and for the
+benefit of the community at large. I never heard of it being complained
+of as a hardship. The system in Assam led to the completion of many
+useful and magnificent public works. High embanked roads were made
+throughout the country, and large tanks, lakes, appropriately termed
+&ldquo;seas,&rdquo; were excavated under this arrangement. Many of the
+great works of former ages in other parts of India are due to something
+of the same kind.</p>
+<p>It was a sad mistake giving up the system in Assam, without
+retaining the right of the state to a certain number of days&rsquo;
+labour on the roads every year, as is the custom to this <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb115" href="#pb115" name="pb115">115</a>]</span>day,
+I believe, in Canada, Ceylon, and other countries.</p>
+<p>Unfortunately, our so-called statesmen are carried away by false
+ideas of humanitarianism, and a desire to pose in every way as the
+exponents of civilisation, that is the last fad that is uppermost, and
+the experience of ages and the real good of primitive people are often
+sacrificed to this <i>ignis fatuus</i>. I hear that
+&ldquo;Lalloop&rdquo; has been abolished in Manipur since we took the
+state in charge. We may live to regret it; the unfortunate puppet Rajah
+certainly will. Why cannot we leave well alone, and attack the real
+evils of India that remain still unredressed, evils that to hear of
+them, would make the hair of any decent thinking man stand on end? We
+have still to learn that the native system has much good in it, much to
+recommend it, and that it is in many cases the natural outgrowth of the
+requirements of the people.</p>
+<p>Manipur in old days required very little to make it a model native
+state of a unique type, and its people the happiest of the happy. All
+it required was a better administration of justice, and a few smaller
+reforms, also more enlightened fiscal regulations such as many European
+states have not yet attained. Given these, no one would have wished for
+more. No one asked for high pay; enough to live on, and the system of
+rewards already in force from time immemorial, satisfied all
+aspirations. The people were contented and happy, and it should have
+been our aim and object to keep them and leave them so. Shall we have
+accomplished this desirable object when we hand over the state to its
+future <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb116" href="#pb116" name=
+"pb116">116</a>]</span>ruler, that is if it ever does again come under
+a Native Government?</p>
+<p>One of the standing grievances of the Government of India against
+Manipur, was the levying of customs duties on all articles imported
+into the state, and on some articles exported to British territory.
+These duties supplied almost the only money revenue the Maharajah had,
+and also to some extent protected Manipuri industries. During my tenure
+of office I did something towards regulating the system, and in the
+case of articles not produced in Manipur, induced the Durbar to lower
+the rates. In the case of cloths, however, I strongly advocated the
+duties being kept up, where, as in the case of coarse cloths the
+imports entered into competition with the excellent manufactures of
+Manipur, which I wished to see preserved in all their integrity.</p>
+<p>Our system of free trade has done much to injure useful trades in
+India, and none more than those in cotton goods. Among an ignorant
+people the incentives of cheapness and outward appearance are so great,
+that the sudden importation of cheap and inferior foreign goods may
+kill out an ancient art, and the people only discover when too late
+what they have lost, and then lament having abandoned the really good
+for the attractive flimsy article. Thus, in many parts of India, the
+beautiful chintzes which were common thirty-five years ago, are now
+nowhere to be had, and every year sees the decay of some branch of
+manufacture. This was very noticeable in Assam, and the arts there lost
+were only kept up in Manipur, owing to its having a Native Court where
+tradition and taste encouraged <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb117"
+href="#pb117" name="pb117">117</a>]</span>them. Soon after I went to
+Manipur, I found that the valley had almost been drained of ponies by
+their exportation to Cachar. The ministers consulted me about it, and I
+gave my consent to the trade being stopped, and this was done for years
+until the numbers had again increased.</p>
+<p>On the whole the duties on almost every article were lowered during
+my term of office, and the imports largely increased. Indeed, but for
+the cumbersome system of levying the custom charges, they would have
+been no grievance at all; and as it was they hardly added anything to
+the cost of the articles when sold in Manipur, many of which could be
+bought for little more than the price paid in Cachar, plus the charge
+for carriage.</p>
+<p>Slavery of a mild form existed in Manipur, the slaves being
+hereditary ones, or people, and the descendants of people who had sold
+themselves for debt, their services being pledged as interest for the
+debt. For instance a Naga (a very common case), marries a girl of
+another Naga village, thereby incurring a debt of forty rupees to the
+father, that being the price of a Naga bride. The man not being able to
+pay, his father-in-law says, &ldquo;Sell yourself, and pay me.&rdquo;
+This is done, and the man pays the forty rupees and has to work for his
+master till he can pay the debt, something being sometimes allowed for
+subsistence, or they agree upon a monthly payment, which if not paid is
+added to the principal. The wife probably works and supports the
+family, and, if the creditor is a fairly good fellow, things go
+smoothly, and the debtor never attempts to fulfil his obligations more
+than he can help. The law allows <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb118"
+href="#pb118" name="pb118">118</a>]</span>a man to transfer his
+services to any one who will take up the debt. Here and there great
+abuses crop up, and the master takes advantage of the corrupt courts to
+bind the slave more and more securely in the chains of debt, and then
+every effort is made to escape. I often paid the debts of slaves who
+came to me for help and let them work off the money. Once a little girl
+named Nowbee came to me. Her mother had sold her to pay her
+father&rsquo;s funeral expenses. She stayed with us, working in the
+nursery for years, and when I left I forgave her the remainder of her
+debt which was unpaid, as, of course, I did with all the others. I once
+offered to redeem the mother, who, in turn, had sold herself, but the
+old woman declined, as some one told her that we should take her to
+England, and she was afraid to go. Sometimes cases of very cruel
+ill-treatment came before me, or cases where people had been made
+slaves contrary to the laws, and then I made a strong remonstrance to
+the Durbar, and insisted on justice. Once or twice I took the
+complainants under my protection immediately, and insisted on keeping
+them. One day a young man and a small boy came to me for protection:
+the case was a bad one, and I at once took them into my service as the
+best way of settling the difficulty, the young man as a gardener and
+the boy to work in the kitchen and wait at table; both were named
+&ldquo;Chowba,&rdquo; <i>i.e.</i> big; a name as common out there as
+John in England. We gave little Chowba clothes, and he stood behind my
+wife&rsquo;s chair at dinner, the first evening crying bitterly from
+fear. However, he learned his work, and became an excellent servant.
+When I went on <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb119" href="#pb119" name=
+"pb119">119</a>]</span>leave in 1882, I offered to place him with my
+<i>locum tenens</i>, but the boy said, &ldquo;No, sahib, you have been
+kind to me; I have broken your things and you have threatened to beat
+me, but have never done so; you have threatened to cut my pay, but have
+never done so; I will never serve any one but you!&rdquo; The poor boy
+kept his word; he preferred hard toil, cutting wood and such-like work;
+but unfortunately died before I returned.</p>
+<p>Another bad case I remember, in which a woman complained to me that
+her child had been stolen from her house while she was away. I ordered
+the child to be brought to me; the poor little thing was only four
+years old, and could hardly stand from having been made to walk a great
+distance by the man who had stolen her, and whose only excuse was, that
+her father, who was dead, owed him nine rupees. I gave her to her
+mother, and insisted on the Durbar punishing him. The story was a sad
+one. The father of the child, a debtor slave, had been told by his
+master to leave his home and go with him, and the man in desperation
+attempted to kill his wife and little girl, and then committed
+suicide.</p>
+<p>While in Manipur I did all I could to afford relief in individual
+cases. It was a great abuse, but slavery in Manipur must not be put in
+the same rank as slavery in Brazil, the West Indies, or Turkey and
+Arabia. A thorough reform of the judicial system of Manipur would have
+entirely taken the sting out of it. All the same, I wish I could have
+abolished it.</p>
+<p>My wife&rsquo;s nurse very speedily left us, and we were left to
+natives and did much better with them. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb120" href="#pb120" name="pb120">120</a>]</span>We always had three
+or four Naga girls who did their work well in a rough-and-ready way.
+Chowbee, Nembee, and Nowbee, just mentioned, were the best. Chowbee was
+the wife of a Naga bearer named Lintoo, and Nembee afterwards married
+our head bearer Horna. We engaged a tailor named Suleiman, brother of
+Sooltan, one of our chuprassies, as a permanent servant, to do the
+ordinary household sewing and mending. My two boys, Dick and Edward,
+became very friendly with all the people, and were drilled daily by a
+naick (corporal of my escort), and the good-natured sepoys used to
+allow themselves to be drilled by the boys. One afternoon, I met these
+two walking up the lines with my orderly. I asked what they were going
+for, and they replied that the sepoys had not done their drill well
+that day, and they were going to give them some more. Whenever a new
+detachment came, the boys were formally introduced to the new native
+officers and men. As they grew older they learned to ride, and rode out
+morning and evening when I went for a walk.</p>
+<p>As the Burmese difficulty did not show signs of decreasing, I went
+out in February to Kongjang on the Yoma range, to reconnoitre and
+select a place for a new stockade, if necessary. At three and a half
+miles on my way, I passed Langthabal, the old capital of Ghumbeer
+Singh, a pretty place where the cantonment of the Manipur Levy used to
+be, and where Captain Gordon was buried under a tree. The ruined palace
+lies nestling under a hill, on a spur of which is a magnificent fir
+tree; behind the palace a garden run to waste and wood, with a few
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb121" href="#pb121" name=
+"pb121">121</a>]</span>ponds, formed an admirable cover for ducks,
+which I saw in abundance. After leaving Langthabal, we passed a place
+called Leelong, the place of execution for members of the Royal family,
+who are sewn up in sacks and drowned in the river. Farther on is a
+great fishing weir, where a small lake discharges itself into a river.
+At last, after a march of thirty miles, I halted at Pullel, a village
+of low caste Manipuris. Next morning we ascended the Yoma range,
+reaching Aimole, a village picturesquely situated and inhabited by a
+tribe of that name. The head of the village was an intelligent old man,
+who remembered Captain Gordon and talked a good deal about him. I gave
+him a coat, and the girls and boys of the village got up a dance for my
+benefit, the most graceful and modest that I ever saw among a wild
+people.</p>
+<p>I reached Kongjang in the afternoon, a place very picturesquely
+situated, with a fine view of the valley of the Lokchao and the hills
+beyond, and of a portion of the Kubo valley. I selected a spot for a
+stockade, and, after reconnoitring in the neighbourhood, marched back
+next day to Pullel, and thence to Manipur, again passing Langthabal. I
+never saw Langthabal without regretting its abandonment, there is
+something very charming about the situation, and it is nearer to
+Bissenpore on the Cachar road than Imphal; also a few miles nearer the
+Kubo valley. It has always had the reputation of being very healthy,
+which is not invariably the case with Imphal, and is, if anything, a
+little cooler. Before leaving in 1886, I strongly recommended it as the
+site for a cantonment, in the event of troops being stationed in the
+valley. My recommendation was adopted. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb122" href="#pb122" name="pb122">122</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XIV.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">An old acquaintance&mdash;Monetary crisis&mdash;A cure
+for breaking crockery&mdash;Rumour of human sacrifices&mdash;Improved
+postal system&mdash;Apricots and mulberries&mdash;A snake
+story&mdash;Search after treasure&mdash;Another snake story&mdash;Visit
+to Calcutta&mdash;Athletics&mdash;Ball practice&mdash;A near shave.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">We had not been dull in the Naga Hills, still less in
+Manipur, for I was always interested in native life. Something to vary
+one&rsquo;s work was constantly occurring.</p>
+<p>One day some men in Shan costume came and asked me for a pass to
+enter Burmah. I inquired who they were, and one said he was the
+Chowmengti Gohain. I remembered him fourteen years before, at Sudya, in
+Assam, when he was but a boy. He was the son of a Khampti chief, long
+since dead. I asked him if he remembered me, and after a minute or two,
+he did. I managed to keep up a conversation in Singpho, though I had
+not spoken it for many years, and have never done so since. He was
+going to Mandalay to marry a daughter to the king.</p>
+<p>Time went on fairly smoothly. I was occupied all day long, and used
+to talk for hours to the ministers and others who came to see me, while
+my wife looked after the house and children, and taught the Naga girls
+to knit and sew, and other useful things. When the weather grew too
+hot, we <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb123" href="#pb123" name=
+"pb123">123</a>]</span>migrated to Kang-joop-kool, and enjoyed the
+change. About this time much dissatisfaction was caused by speculators
+in the capital hoarding &ldquo;sel,&rdquo; the coin of the country. The
+usual rate at which they were exchanged for the rupee was 480 = 1
+rupee, but there were occasional fluctuations; large sums were paid in
+rupees, but the amount was always reckoned in sel. Consequently, when
+the latter were hoarded, a man having only rupees in his possession
+found their purchasing power greatly diminished. On this occasion,
+almost all the &ldquo;sel&rdquo; in circulation were collected in a few
+hands and a panic was the result; the bazaar was in an uproar, and
+business ceased. I spoke to the Maharajah on the subject, and
+represented the very great injury to the country that would inevitably
+result if immediate steps were not taken to rectify the mischief done,
+and urged him to issue a large quantity of sel. This he did, and the
+exchange which had gone down to 240, at once rose to 400, and at this
+rate he fixed it, and so it remained all the time I was in Manipur.</p>
+<p>Our Naga boys, though intelligent and willing to learn, were
+careless and often worse, as in playing and fighting with each other,
+they broke much crockery, and the loss was serious, as it took months
+to replace it. I threatened in vain, as I could not bear to make the
+poor lads pay. At last, in desperation, I hit upon a remedy; I said
+that the next time anything was broken, the breaker should pound it up
+to a fine powder with a pestle and mortar, and mix it with water and
+drink it. This threat had some effect, but at last one day the old cook
+brought up <span class="corr" id="xd20e1753" title=
+"Source: Murumbo">Murumboo</span>, our musalchee (<i>i.e.</i>
+dishwasher) with <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb124" href="#pb124"
+name="pb124">124</a>]</span>a vegetable dish in pieces, broken, as
+usual, in play. I said very severely, &ldquo;Very well, grind it to
+powder in a pestle and mortar, and then you shall mix it with water and
+drink it.&rdquo; So Murumboo sat for hours in the sun, pounding away.
+At last it was reduced to a fine powder, and I told him to mix it with
+water and drink it in my presence. Of course, what I had foreseen,
+happened, all the other servants headed by the old cook, Horna and
+Sultan, came up and humbly begged that he might be forgiven this time,
+a request which I graciously acceded to, and Murumboo went away very
+penitent. The result was excellent, as for the future I hardly lost any
+crockery. Poor Murumboo; he served me well, and became an excellent
+cook and got a good place when I finally left.</p>
+<p>The summer and autumn passed quietly, except for a rumour that human
+sacrifices had been offered up, though no actual complaint was made. I
+believe the report to have been true. I had seen enough of countries
+where within a few years they had been undoubtedly offered, to know
+that such things did occasionally happen among ignorant people, where
+appeasing evil spirits is a common custom. I took such precautions as
+effectually prevented any recurrence of this horrible practice.</p>
+<p>One reform carried out was in our postal arrangements. When I first
+arrived, the post, which came in every other day, frequently took eight
+days to reach us from Cachar, a distance of 132 miles. By altering the
+system, I reduced it to a maximum of four days, though it often came
+more quickly, and by constantly hammering at all concerned, I achieved
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb125" href="#pb125" name=
+"pb125">125</a>]</span>the triumph of a daily post delivered in less
+than two days from Cachar before I left.</p>
+<p>Once when riding between Manipur and Kang-joop-kool, I saw, in
+passing a small bazaar, a woman selling apricots. I made inquiries
+about them, and was told that they had existed from time immemorial,
+but that they would give me a violent internal pain if I ate them. I
+did try them, raw and cooked, but the statement was quite true, nothing
+made them agreeable, and I did suffer pain. They were probably
+introduced from China in early days, and having been neglected had
+degenerated. They blossom in January. I tried Himalayan apricots, and
+the trees throve wonderfully, but could never, while I was in Manipur,
+learn to blossom at the right time. They blossomed as they were
+accustomed to do in their native country, that is three months too
+late, and the fruit was destroyed by the early rains. Perhaps they have
+by this time adapted themselves to the climate. I introduced Kabulee
+mulberries and they did well, but those in the valley grew long like
+the Indian variety, while those at Kang-joop-kool were shaped like the
+common European mulberry, and very good to eat.</p>
+<p>Another time when out riding in the evening, I witnessed a strange
+sight. I was near Kooak Kaithel when I saw a large number of sparrows
+assembled on the road in front, and perched on a clump of bamboos near;
+others were constantly joining them, and numbers were flying to the
+spot from all sides. They first joined the assemblage on the road, and
+then flew up to and around the bamboos, which were already covered with
+the first-comers. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb126" href="#pb126"
+name="pb126">126</a>]</span>I asked one of my mounted orderlies what it
+all meant. He said that a snake was concealed among the bamboos, and
+that the birds were come to see him and try and drive him out. Whatever
+be the explanation, it was a very interesting sight, and I never at any
+time saw such a large number of small birds together. Once when riding
+along this same road, but farther on, in company with Thangal Major, I
+happened to see a deep hole freshly dug in the side of a hill,
+apparently without any object. I asked him what it was dug for, and he
+replied that it was probably some refugee returned to the land of his
+ancestors, who had dug it, in search for treasure buried during the
+Burmese invasion by a relation, who had left an exact description of
+the spot as a guide to any of his descendants who might return. He said
+that there were many cases of this kind. I used to hear the same story
+many years ago in Assam where the truth was never questioned, and many
+were the tumuli that bore the marks of having been opened by searchers
+&ldquo;for buried gold.&rdquo; I never knew of an authentic case of the
+kind in Manipur, but doubtless old Thangal could tell of many such;
+possibly he had shared in the proceeds.</p>
+<p>I have just related a story of birds attacking a snake, and I may as
+well tell another story in which one of his tribe was the aggressor.
+When returning from my cottage at Kang-joop-kool, after a day spent
+there in October, I saw an enormous python poised up on the high
+embanked road with its head erect, and body and tail in coils on the
+slope, ready to spring on some young buffaloes grazing near; it must
+have been at the lowest estimate thirty feet <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb127" href="#pb127" name="pb127">127</a>]</span>long
+and of proportionate thickness. I was too near, and riding too fast, to
+stop my pony, so gave a loud shout, and urged him to speed, and the
+snake turned itself back and fell with a crash into a morass by the
+road side, and I saw no more of it. I spoke to Thangal Major about it,
+and he told me that pythons were known to exist about the place where I
+saw this. I once shot a young one on the Diphoo Panee river, near
+Sudya, which measured nine feet, and a sepoy of my old regiment shot
+one near Borpathar fifteen feet in length.</p>
+<p>Several very deadly snakes abound in Manipur, notably the
+&ldquo;Tanglei&rdquo; and the &ldquo;Ophiophagus,&rdquo; a terrible
+looking creature, eight to twelve feet in length. No house is safe from
+snakes, and in the old Residency one fell from the roof once in my
+bedroom, from where a few minutes previously the baby&rsquo;s
+bassinette had hung, so the child had a narrow escape. I never dare let
+the children play alone in the garden for fear of their being
+bitten.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e1781width"><img src="images/p127.jpg" alt=
+"Kohima." width="720" height="473">
+<p class="figureHead">Kohima.</p>
+<p class="first">[<i>Page 127.</i></p>
+</div>
+<p>The extreme loneliness of Manipur, and the necessity of leaving my
+wife and children quite alone sometimes, made me very anxious to get
+some trustworthy English nurse for her, but we quite failed in doing
+so. In this emergency, one of her sisters volunteered to come out,
+which was a great help and relief. As I had to go to Calcutta to see
+the Viceroy in December, we asked her to meet us there. We left Manipur
+on November 27th, 1878, and returned on January 23rd, bringing her with
+us. Kohima was occupied by the Political Agent of the Naga Hills (Mr.
+Damant), in November, and before leaving for Calcutta I had some
+correspondence <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb128" href="#pb128" name=
+"pb128">128</a>]</span>with him, and, at his request, sent my
+escort&mdash;then consisting of Cachar Frontier Police; men, for
+service qualities in the hills, far superior to the Native Infantry I
+had&mdash;to his assistance.</p>
+<p>In Calcutta, I met Sir Steuart Bayley, who had been lately appointed
+Chief Commissioner of Assam, and had interviews with the Viceroy, Lord
+Lytton, and the Foreign Secretary, Mr. (now Sir Alfred) Lyall.</p>
+<p>Early in 1879, there was some discontent on account of the dearness
+of rice, owing to a deficient crop, but there was no real anxiety, as
+the stock of rice in hand was sufficient. I remember that during that
+time I was rather scandalised at hearing that the old Ranee had gone
+off to Moirang on the Logtak lake for change of air, accompanied by a
+retinue of over one thousand persons. Many people had been employed for
+weeks past in building a little temporary town for their accommodation,
+and all for five days&rsquo; stay. I remonstrated with Thangal Major at
+this useless waste of resources at a time when food was scarce, and
+told him that he ought to prevent such thoughtlessness. He told me, and
+I believe sincerely, that he greatly regretted it, and promised to use
+his influence to amend matters, but said what was perfectly true, that
+if he gave good advice, there were plenty of people quite ready to
+offer the reverse, and contradict his statements. I often thought what
+an advantage it would have been, if we had insisted on all authority
+being in the hands of one powerful minister responsible to us. Under a
+strong man like Chandra Kirtee Singh there would have been some
+difficulty in arranging it, but under <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb129" href="#pb129" name="pb129">129</a>]</span>his weak, though
+amiable and intelligent successor, Soor Chandra, it would have been
+easy, and would have saved us one of the most painful and disgraceful
+episodes in our history.</p>
+<p>Almost every day brought some exciting news from the frontier. One
+day, an incursion by Chussad Kukies on the Kubo side; another, an
+outrage committed by Sookti Kukies. Then a little later a report that
+the Muram Nagas were restless. All these reports came to me at once,
+and I had to decide what was to be done. Occasionally an expedition was
+the result, regarding the conduct of which I gave general instructions.
+Sometimes late at night a minister came to me in a high state of
+excitement at some outrage on the Burmese frontier, in which, of
+course, every one, from the Court of Mandalay downwards, was said to be
+implicated. Anything against Burmah was readily believed, and not
+without reason, perhaps, judging from past history, and I had, on the
+spur of the moment, to decide on the policy to be adopted, and calm
+down and convince my impulsive visitor.</p>
+<p>Manipur is a great place for athletics, and some fine wrestling is
+to be seen there. Athletic sports are regularly held at stated periods,
+sometimes for Manipuris, at other times for Nagas. At the last there
+are races run by men, carrying heavy weights on their backs. At the
+conclusion of these exhibitions of strength and skill, four Manipuris,
+dressed in Naga costume, executed a Naga war dance. This I always
+thought the most interesting part of the performance, showing as in
+many other cases, the tacit acknowledgment of a connection with the
+hill-tribes surrounding them. It always reminded me of the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb130" href="#pb130" name="pb130">130</a>]</span>same
+connection between the Rajahs in the hill tracts of Orissa, Sumbulpore
+and Chota Nagpore, and their aboriginal subjects. I am rather inclined
+to believe that in the case of Manipur some of the customs point
+distinctly to the Rajahs being descended from, or having been
+originally installed by, the hill-tribes, as was notably the case in
+Keonjhur one of the Cuttack Tributary Mehals. To this subject, however,
+I have already referred.</p>
+<p>During each cold season, I insisted on the Manipuri troops being put
+through musketry practice with ball cartridge, and often attended for
+hours together, with the Maharajah, to see how the men acquitted
+themselves. Sometimes the firing went on all day, the targets being
+erected at one end of the private polo ground in the palace, with a
+mountain of rice straw in their rear to catch stray bullets. Sometimes
+the bullets went through everything, and one evening, as my wife and
+myself with the children, were taking our evening walk, we had ocular
+demonstration of this, as a shot passed close to my second boy&rsquo;s
+(Edward) head. I spoke to Thangal Major about it, suggesting that the
+pile of straw should be made thicker, but only elicited the reply,
+&ldquo;Of course, if you go in the line of fire, you must expect to be
+shot.&rdquo; This reminded me of my early days in Assam, when my old
+regimental friend Ross shot another friend out snipe shooting. The
+latter complained, but all the satisfaction he got from Ross was,
+&ldquo;Well, you must have been in the way.&rdquo; <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb131" href="#pb131" name="pb131">131</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch15" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XV.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Spring in Manipur&mdash;Visit to
+Kombang&mdash;Manipuri orderlies&mdash;Parade of the Maharajah&rsquo;s
+guards&mdash;Birth of a daughter&mdash;An evening walk in the
+capital&mdash;Polo&mdash;Visit to Cachar.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The spring in Manipur is a charming time, the nights
+are still cool, though the days are hot, and abundance of flowering
+trees come into blossom; among them one that attains a considerable
+size, called in Manipuri &ldquo;Chinghow.&rdquo; It has two kinds, one
+with pink and the other white and pink flowers, Out in the hills are
+wild pears and azaleas in abundance, and rhododendrons, while here and
+there are beautiful orchids. The oak forests too are splendid with the
+fresh young leaves, and every hill village has peach trees in flower,
+so that it is a delightful season for marching, and one can be out from
+morning till night. I took advantage of the fine weather, and early in
+April again visited the Yoma range, and went along the road to
+Jangapokee Tannah, as far as a place called Kombang, 4600 feet above
+the sea. On my way there and back I halted at Haitoo-pokpee, 2600 feet
+above the sea, where the thermometer at sunrise stood at 55 and 56
+degrees respectively; but the day between, when I was at Kombang, it
+was 67 degrees at sunrise, the additional elevation raising the
+thermometer. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb132" href="#pb132" name=
+"pb132">132</a>]</span>I noticed the phenomenon over and over again in
+Manipur, and in the cold weather generally found the sunrise
+temperature lower in the valley than in the hills. Upland valleys were
+sometimes colder than that of Manipur, and now and then to the north I
+found very great cold prevailing on high land, as at Mythephum. The day
+temperature in the hills was invariably lower than that in the valley,
+in short, it was more equable. The road to Kombang was pretty, but the
+place not particularly so. The night I was there I heard the loud
+crackling of a burning oak forest set on fire to clear the ground for
+<i>one crop</i>. It is difficult to speak with patience of this
+abominable system, which is gradually clearing the hills in Eastern
+India, and destroying valuable timber, while it encourages nomadic
+habits in the tribes.</p>
+<p>Whenever I went on an expedition into the hills, besides the usual
+Manipuri Guard in attendance, four or five officers or non-commissioned
+officers were told off to accompany me. Jemadars Thamur Singh, Sowpa,
+Sundha, Th&#365;t-t&ocirc;t, and Th&ucirc;r&ucirc;ng were those
+generally sent, excellent men who never left me from morning till
+night, on the hardest march. Many was the adventure we had together,
+and any one of them could march fifty miles on end. They were well
+known throughout the hill territory of Manipur. A bugler always formed
+one of my party, and it was his duty to sound a lively quick march as
+we approached our camp in the evening. Of course, he always got a
+special reward from me on my return to headquarters.</p>
+<p>One day the Maharajah invited me to attend a review of his regiment
+of guards called the &ldquo;Soor Pultun.&rdquo; <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb133" href="#pb133" name="pb133">133</a>]</span>I
+went, and he asked me whether he should put them through their
+man&oelig;uvres himself, or let one of his officers do it. Not wishing
+him, as I thought, to expose his ignorance, I suggested the last; but,
+to my surprise, he conducted the parade himself very creditably, giving
+the word of command in English with great clearness. The men&rsquo;s
+marching was poor, and the step not free enough, but otherwise they did
+well. They were fairly well up in the Light Infantry exercises of ten
+years back, and their drill generally was a slight modification of that
+of 1859. On this, as on most occasions, when an invitation was sent by
+the Maharajah, it was conveyed by two or three officers of not lower
+rank than that of subadar or captain, and generally by word of mouth.
+If I was away in camp all communications were by letter, sometimes
+accompanied by a verbal message.</p>
+<p>On February 28th, 1879, we were gladdened by the birth of a little
+daughter. Being a girl, her arrival did not cause as much excitement as
+Arthur&rsquo;s, but when she was old enough to be carried out in a
+small litter, all the population turned out to see her, and passers-by
+would sometimes offer her a flower. How interesting our daily walks
+were. Turning to the left, after leaving our gate by the guard-house,
+we passed along by the wide moat surrounding the palace, and in which
+as has been said the great annual boat races were held. There, might be
+seen women washing their babies by the waterside in wooden tubs, cut
+out of a single block bought for the purpose. At every step, if in the
+evening, we passed or were passed by gaily clad women carrying baskets
+of goods to sell in the great bazaar, &ldquo;Sena Kaithel,&rdquo;
+<i>i.e.</i>, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb134" href="#pb134" name=
+"pb134">134</a>]</span>Golden Bazaar, assembled opposite the great gate
+of the palace, the picturesque structure already alluded to. In this
+bazaar the women sat in long rows on raised banks of earth, without any
+other covering in the rainy weather than large umbrellas. Here could be
+bought cloth of all kinds, ornaments, rice, etc., fowls and vegetables.
+Dogs were also sold for food. As a rule, articles of food other than
+fowls, were more plentiful in the morning bazaar. Blind people and
+other beggars would post themselves in different parts of the market,
+and women as they passed would give them a handful of rice, or any
+other article of food they possessed. Women are the great traders, and
+many would walk miles in the morning, and buy things in the more
+distant bazaars to sell again in the capital in the evening. It was not
+considered etiquette for men too often to frequent the bazaars, and few
+Manipuris did so, but crowds of hill-men were constantly to be seen
+there, and it presented a very gay and animated scene, the contrast
+between the snow-white garments of Manipuri men, the parti-coloured
+petticoats of the women, and the many-coloured clothes of the hill-men
+being very picturesque. Opposite the great gateway on the right-hand
+side, Royal proclamations were posted up. There, too, in presence of
+all the bazaar, offenders were flogged, generally with the utmost
+severity. This was, I am sorry to say, rather an attractive spectacle
+to foreigners. Going through the bazaar along a fine broad road, the
+only masonry bridge in the country was seen crossing the river, and on
+the opposite bank the road turned sharp to the left, and went off to
+Cachar. Before crossing it, and to the left was a piece of <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb135" href="#pb135" name=
+"pb135">135</a>]</span>waste ground with a rather ill-looking tree in
+it, under which men were executed. Opposite, and to the right of the
+road, was the sight of the morning bazaar. Here I have seen boat-loads
+of pine-apples landed, fruit that would have done credit to Covent
+Garden.</p>
+<p>Between the Residency grounds, the &ldquo;Sena Kaithel&rdquo; and
+the great road, was the famous polo ground, where the best play in the
+world might be seen. There was a grand stand for the Royal family on
+the western side, and one for myself on the north. Sunday evening was
+the favourite day, and then the princes appeared, and in earlier days
+the Maharajah. In my time one of the Maharajah&rsquo;s sons, Pucca
+Sena, and the artillery major, were the champion players. In Manipur,
+every man who can muster a pony plays, and every boy who cannot, plays
+on foot.</p>
+<p>But to continue our walk. Passing the bazaar, we still skirt the
+palace, meeting fresh groups and turning sharp round at one of the
+angles of the moat, here covered with water lilies, come upon an
+exceedingly picturesque temple once shaded with a peepul tree
+(<i><span class="corr" id="xd20e1841" title=
+"Source: Frecis">Ficus</span> religiosa</i>); this tree was torn off by
+the great earthquake of June 30th, 1880. Afterwards taking two turns to
+the right, and one to the left, and crossing a most dangerous-looking
+bamboo bridge, we came upon a piece of woodland on the opposite bank of
+the stream. This is the &ldquo;Mah Wathee,&rdquo; a bit of forest left
+as it originally was for the wood spirits. It is now filled with
+monkeys, which are great favourites with my children who have brought
+rice for them which causes great excitement. But it is soon bedtime for
+the young <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb136" href="#pb136" name=
+"pb136">136</a>]</span>monkeys, and the river being deep, they spring
+on to the backs of their mothers who swim across with them in the most
+human fashion. Saying good-night to the monkeys, we go homewards,
+passing Moirang Khung, a tumulus said to be the site of a battle
+between the Mungang and Moirang tribes; to this day a Moirang avoids
+it. We pass a couple of boys riding jauntily on one pony, determined to
+get as much pleasure out of life as they can. Finally, we reach home in
+time for a game with the children, and dinner.</p>
+<p>I have alluded to the high esteem in which the game of polo was held
+in this, its native home, and of the splendid play that could be seen
+on Sundays. I never played myself, much as I should have enjoyed it.
+Had I been a highly experienced player, able to contend with the best
+in Manipur, I might have done so; but I did not think I was justified,
+holding the important position I did, in running the risk of being
+hustled and jostled by any one with whom I played: men whom I was bound
+to keep at arm&rsquo;s length. Had I done so I should have lost
+influence. I could not be hail-fellow-well-met, and though talking
+freely with all, I at once checked all disposition to familiarity, and
+people rarely attempted it.</p>
+<p>Colonel McCulloch, it is true played, but he began life in Manipur
+as an Assistant Political Agent, and also did not succeed to office as
+I did, when our prestige had dwindled down to nothing.</p>
+<p>In September 1879, hearing that Sir Steuart Bayley, Chief
+Commissioner and Acting Lieut.-Governor of Bengal, was about to visit
+Cachar, I went there to see him, performing the double journey
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb137" href="#pb137" name=
+"pb137">137</a>]</span>including a night there, in less than seven
+days. It was the first time I had made the march in the rainy season,
+and I was greatly struck by the extreme beauty of the scenery which was
+much enhanced by the number of waterfalls, that a month later would
+have been dry. The masses of clouds and the clearness of the air when
+rain was not falling, added greatly to the effect, and I enjoyed the
+journey till I got to the low-lying land. There the mud, slush, and
+great heat were unpleasant. It was very satisfactory to be able to
+discuss the affairs of Manipur with the Chief Commissioner, as though I
+was not then directly under him, I was from my position very dependent
+on him, and was anxious to hear his views on many subjects.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb138" href="#pb138" name=
+"pb138">138</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch16" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XVI.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Punishment of female criminals&mdash;A man saved from
+execution&mdash;A Kuki executed&mdash;Old customs
+abolished&mdash;Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh&mdash;The Manipuri
+army&mdash;Effort to re-organise Manipur levy&mdash;System of
+rewards&mdash;&ldquo;Nothing for nothing&rdquo;&mdash;An English
+school&mdash;Hindoo festivals&mdash;Rainbows&mdash;View from
+Kang-joop-kool.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Manipur professed to follow the old Hindoo laws, and
+accordingly no woman was ever put to death, or to very severe
+punishment. When one was convicted of any heinous or disgraceful
+offence she was exposed on a high platform in every bazaar in the
+country, stripped to the waist, round which a rope, one end of which
+was held by her guard, was tied and her breasts painted red. A crier at
+the same time proclaimed her crime, and with a loud voice called out
+from time to time, &ldquo;Come and look at this naughty
+woman!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Exposure on a platform was also a punishment inflicted occasionally
+on male offenders. Sometimes it was followed by death. Once I saved a
+man from this part of the sentence, his crime being one for which our
+law would not have exacted so severe a penalty. Fortunately, I heard in
+time, and a message to the Maharajah in courteous, but unmistakable
+terms, brought about a remission of the capital portion. The ministers
+generally consulted me before carrying out sentence of death. Once in a
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb139" href="#pb139" name=
+"pb139">139</a>]</span>case of murder by a Kuki they asked my opinion,
+so I requested them to send the man to me that I might examine him
+myself. This was done, and as he confessed openly to being guilty, I
+told them they might execute him, and as an after-thought said
+&ldquo;How shall you put him to death?&rdquo; <span class="corr" id=
+"xd20e1868" title="Source: Bularaam">Bularam</span> Singh replied,
+&ldquo;According to the custom of Manipur, in the way in which he
+committed the murder. As he split his victim&rsquo;s head open with an
+axe so will his head be split open.&rdquo; I said &ldquo;I have no
+objection in this case on the score of humanity, but it is not a pretty
+mode of execution; some day there will be a case accompanied by
+circumstances of cruelty, when I shall be obliged to interfere; so take
+my advice, and on this occasion and all future ones, adopt decapitation
+as the mode of carrying out a death sentence. You can do it now with a
+good grace, and without any apparent interference on my part to offend
+your dignity.&rdquo; Old <span class="corr" id="xd20e1871" title=
+"Source: Bularaam">Bularam</span> Singh said, &ldquo;Oh no, the laws of
+Manipur are unalterable, we cannot change; we must do as we have always
+done.&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;Nonsense, my old friend, go with Chumder
+Singh (my native secretary and interpreter) and give my kind message to
+the Maharajah, and say what I advise, as his friend.&rdquo; In
+half-an-hour Chumder Singh returned with an assurance that my advice
+was accepted, and from that time decapitation was the form of capital
+punishment adopted.</p>
+<p>I never knew a case of torture being employed, but otherwise the
+laws were carried out with severity. Ghumbeer Singh (reigned
+1825&ndash;34) occasionally tore out an offender&rsquo;s eyes, but such
+things had been forgotten in the days of his son, and <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb140" href="#pb140" name=
+"pb140">140</a>]</span>though the Government was strong, probably there
+were fewer acts of cruelty than in most native states. Once when
+Ghumbeer Singh had lately introduced tame geese into the country; he
+gave two to a Brahmin to take care of. It was reported that a goose was
+dead. &ldquo;Tell the Brahmin to eat it,&rdquo; said the indignant
+Rajah. The severity of such an order to a Hindoo will be appreciated,
+by any one knowing what loss of caste entails. Ghumbeer Singh&rsquo;s
+orders were always implicitly obeyed, so I am afraid that the sentence
+was carried into effect.</p>
+<p>The army consisted of about 5000 men at the outside, in eight
+regiments of infantry and an artillery corps. The famous cavalry was a
+thing of the past, and many of the infantry were quite unacquainted
+with drill. There were eight three-pounder brass guns, and two
+seven-pounder mountain guns given as a reward for services in the Naga
+Hills, one of which did admirable service in the Burmese war. Most of
+the infantry were armed with smooth-bore muskets, some being of the
+Enfield pattern. Besides the above, there were about 1000 to 12,000
+Kuki Irregulars. A Manipuri military expedition was a strange sight,
+the men besides their arms and ammunition carrying their spare clothes,
+cooking vessels, food, etc., on their backs. All the same, they could
+make long and tiring marches day after day on poor fare and without a
+complaint, and at the end of a hard day would hut themselves and
+fortify their position with great skill, however great the fatigue they
+had undergone. It was a standing rule that in an enemy&rsquo;s country
+a small force should always stockade itself, and a Manipuri army well
+commanded <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb141" href="#pb141" name=
+"pb141">141</a>]</span>was then able to hold its own against a sudden
+attack. On their return from a successful expedition the troops were
+greatly honoured, and the general in command accorded a kind of
+triumph, and it was an interesting sight to see the long thin line of
+picturesque and often gaily-clad troops, regulars and irregulars
+winding their way through the streets and groves of the capital bearing
+with them spoils and trophies gained in war. Here a party headed by
+banners, there some Kukis beating small gongs and chanting in a
+monotonous tone. Finally, after marching round two sides of the palace,
+they enter by the great gate, pass between the Chinese walls, and again
+between the two lions (so called), and being received by the Maharajah
+at the Gate of Triumph, their General throws himself at his feet and
+receives his chief&rsquo;s benediction, the greatest reward that he can
+have.</p>
+<p>I realised from the first that it would be an immense advantage to
+reconstitute the Manipur Levy, and keep up a permanent force of 800 men
+under my direct orders, properly paid, armed, clothed and disciplined.
+I foresaw that a war with Burmah was a mere question of time, and
+wished to have a force ready, so as to enable the British Government to
+act with effect at a moment&rsquo;s notice through Manipur, on the
+outbreak of hostilities. Regular troops eat no more than irregular, and
+are ten times as valuable. My plan was to have 800 men enlisted, of
+whom 200 would have come on duty in rotation, according to the Manipur
+system, all being liable to assemble at a moment&rsquo;s notice. Thus a
+splendid battalion of hardy men could have been formed, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb142" href="#pb142" name="pb142">142</a>]</span>with
+which I could have marched to Mandalay. Such a force would have been
+absolutely invaluable when the war broke out in 1885, men able to stand
+the climate, march, fight, row boats, dig, build stockades, in fact do
+all that the best men could be called upon to do. However, to my great
+disappointment, the idea did not commend itself to Government, and I
+never ceased to regret it. I often later on thought of the lives and
+money that might have been saved in 1885&ndash;86 had we been better
+prepared, the cost of the proposed levy would have been trifling.</p>
+<p>One part of the Manipuri system ever struck me as very admirable,
+and I tried always to encourage it; that was the system of rewarding
+services by honorary distinctions. The permission to wear a peculiar
+kind of turban, coat, or feather, or to assume a certain title was more
+valued than any money reward, and men would exert themselves for years
+for the coveted distinction. It is charming to see such simple tastes
+and to aspire no higher than to do one&rsquo;s duty and earn the
+approval of our fellow-creatures.</p>
+<p>One day the two ministers Thangal Major and <span class="corr" id=
+"xd20e1890" title="Source: Bularaam">Bularam</span> Singh came to see
+me, accompanied by old Rooma Singh Major. They looked rather uneasy,
+and I suspected something was coming out. Presently Thangal rose and
+saluted me, and said, &ldquo;The Maharajah has promoted us to be
+generals.&rdquo; I received the intelligence without any enthusiasm,
+feeling assured that the act had been dictated by a desire to give them
+a more high-sounding title than my military one, I being then only a
+lieut.-colonel. It was in fact a piece of self-assertion. Any one
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb143" href="#pb143" name=
+"pb143">143</a>]</span>understanding Asiatics will know what I mean,
+and that I knew instinctively it was a move in the game against me
+which I ought to check. I coldly replied that of course the Maharajah
+would please himself, but that I loved old things, old names, and old
+faces, and that I had so many pleasant associations with the old titles
+that I could not bring myself to use the new ones, and should continue
+to call them by the dear old name of Major. I then shook hands with
+them most cordially and said good-bye, and they left rather
+crestfallen, where they had hoped and intended to be triumphant. I may
+as well tell the remainder of the story. Time after time was I begged
+to address my three friends as &ldquo;General,&rdquo; but I was
+inexorable, and the titles almost fell into disuse among the Manipuris
+who had at first adopted them. Old Thangal once had a long talk about
+it, and I said plainly, &ldquo;I give nothing for nothing: some day
+when you do something I shall address you as General.&rdquo; Years
+passed. I went on leave, and my <i>locum tenens</i> too good-naturedly
+gave in, and addressed them as General, and even induced the Chief
+Commissioner of the day to do likewise. When he wrote to me and told me
+of it, I was naturally not very pleased, and mentioned it to an old
+Indian friend, who said, &ldquo;Well, you will have to do the same now
+that the Chief Commissioner has.&rdquo; However, I was not going to
+swerve from my word. I returned to Manipur, and one of the ministers
+met me on the boundary river. I again greeted him as &ldquo;Major
+Sahib,&rdquo; and immediately the new titles again began to fall into
+disuse. I told the Chief Commissioner my views when I next met him,
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb144" href="#pb144" name=
+"pb144">144</a>]</span>and he approved, as I said I could not alter my
+word.</p>
+<p>Some time after this I again renewed efforts that I had long been
+making for the establishment of an English school in Manipur. The
+Durbar naturally objected; wisely from their point of view, they knew
+as well as I did that the fact of their subjects learning English would
+eventually mean a better administration of justice, and a gradual
+sweeping away of abuses. I felt, however, that the time was come, and I
+urged the question with great force, and one day said to the ministers,
+&ldquo;You have long wanted to be addressed as &lsquo;General,&rsquo;
+and I told you that when you did something worthy of it I should do so.
+Now the day that the Maharajah gives his consent to an English school
+being established, I shall address you as General.&rdquo; A few days
+afterwards the Maharajah&rsquo;s consent was brought. I immediately
+stood up and shook hands most warmly with them, saying, &ldquo;I thank
+you cordially, Generals.&rdquo; From that day the question was finally
+set at rest, after years of longing on the part of the old fellows. We
+had always understood each other, and they felt and respected the part
+I had taken, and, I believe, valued their titles all the more from my
+not having given in at once.</p>
+<p>The Rath Jatra Festival, <i>i.e.</i>, the drawing of the Car of
+Juggernaut, is greatly honoured in Manipur, and every village has its
+Rath (car). The Dewali, the feast of lights, is also faithfully kept.
+Also the Rathwal, one of the feasts of Krishna, when there are many
+dances, and an enormous bird is cleverly constructed of cloth with a
+bamboo framework, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb145" href=
+"#pb145" name="pb145">145</a>]</span>a man inside, who struts about to
+the delight of the children. The Koli Saturnalia is also duly
+celebrated; the red powder &ldquo;Abeer,&rdquo; is thrown about amongst
+those who can get it, and the burning of the temporary shrines lights
+up the sky at night, and the holes where the poles stood, are a fertile
+source of danger to ponies and pedestrians for weeks afterwards. The
+Durga Poojah is kept, but is a feast of minor importance. At the Rath
+Jatra the number of people drawn together was enormous, and the white
+mass could be very distinctly seen from Kang-joop-kool with a
+telescope, when the weather was clear. This view was sometimes obscured
+by clouds, and often when staying there did I wake up to see the whole
+of the valley filled up with fog, like a vast sea of cotton-wool,
+stretching across to the Yoma range of hills many miles away.</p>
+<p>Lunar rainbows were not uncommon in Manipur, and I often saw them
+from Kang-joop-kool. Often, too, from thence have I seen a complete
+solar rainbow, each end resting on the level surface of the valley.
+Once, in riding to Sengmai on a misty morning, I saw a white rainbow
+rising from the ground; a fine and weird sight it was.</p>
+<p>The view over the valley at night from the surrounding hills was
+sometimes wonderful. I never shall forget one night in the rainy
+season, when the moon was shining brightly in the valley, but obscured
+from my view by an intervening cloud; the bright reflection on the
+watery plain sent out a long stream of light which brightened up the
+glistening temples of the Capelat. This, and the dim hills in the
+distance, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb146" href="#pb146" name=
+"pb146">146</a>]</span>and the whole amphitheatre enclosed by them
+lighted up faintly, while the dark threatening cloud hanging in air
+between me and the rising moon, that had not yet apparently reached my
+level (I was 2500 feet above the valley, and seemed to be looking down
+on the moon), made a picture never to be forgotten. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb147" href="#pb147" name="pb147">147</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch17" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XVII.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Mr. Damant&mdash;The Naga Hills&mdash;Rumours on which
+I act&mdash;News of revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant&rsquo;s
+surrender&mdash;Maharajah&rsquo;s loyalty&mdash;March to the relief of
+Kohima&mdash;Relief of Kohima&mdash;Incidents of siege&mdash;Heroism of
+ladies&mdash;A noble defence.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">In November, 1878, Mr. Damant removed the headquarters
+of the Naga Hills District from Samagudting to Kohima, and established
+himself there with his party, in two stockades. He had a very ample
+force for maintaining his position, but he had not sufficient to make
+coercing a powerful village an easy task. He was an able man, with much
+force of character, high-minded and upright, and had been greatly
+respected in Manipur, where he acted as Political Agent for some months
+after Dr. Brown&rsquo;s death. He was also a scholar, and was perhaps
+the only man of his generation in Assam capable of taking a
+comprehensive view of the languages of the Eastern Frontier, and
+searching out their origin. His premature death was an irreparable loss
+to philology.</p>
+<p>With all this he had not had sufficient experience with wild tribes
+to be a fit match for the astute Nagas, and was constantly harassed by
+the difficulty in the way of securing supplies, which ought to have
+been arranged for him, in the early days of our <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb148" href="#pb148" name=
+"pb148">148</a>]</span>occupation of Samagudting, by making terms with
+the Nagas as to providing food carriage. It was his misfortune that he
+inherited an evil system. We had been forced into the hills by the
+lawlessness of the Naga tribes, and we ought to have made them bear
+their full share of the inconveniences attendant on our occupation,
+instead of making our own people suffer.</p>
+<p>Mr. Damant at first contemplated getting his supplies from Manipur,
+through the Durbar, but they objected, it being their traditional
+policy to prevent the export of rice for fear of famines, the distance
+and cost of transport making the import, in case of scarcity, an
+impossibility. I declined to put pressure, as I saw the reasonableness
+of the Durbar argument, and I objected to force the hill population of
+Manipur to spend their time in carrying heavy loads, to save the
+turbulent and lazy Angamis. In September, 1879, however, I heard a
+rumour from native sources that Mr. Damant was in great difficulties
+and straits for want of provisions,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1931src"
+href="#xd20e1931" name="xd20e1931src">1</a> and I wrote and told him
+that if it were true, I would make every effort to send him some
+supplies, and to help him in every way I could. I did not receive any
+answer to this letter, and subsequently ascertained that it had never
+reached him.</p>
+<p>I knew the Angamis well, and was very anxious about Mr. Damant and
+his party, and felt sure that some trouble was at hand.</p>
+<p>About this time my wife&rsquo;s health began to give me much
+anxiety; she had one or two severe attacks of illness, and was much
+reduced in strength. Who <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb149" href=
+"#pb149" name="pb149">149</a>]</span>that has not experienced it can
+imagine the terrible, wearing anxiety of life on a distant frontier,
+without adequate medical aid for those nearest and dearest to us. She
+was better, though still very weak, when an event occurred that shook
+the whole frontier.</p>
+<p>Early in the morning of October 21st, I received a report from Mao
+Tannah, the Manipuri outpost on the borders of the Naga Hills, to the
+effect that a rumour had reached the officer there, that the Mozuma
+Nagas had attacked either Kohima, or a party of our men somewhere else,
+and had killed one hundred men. I have already mentioned my anxiety
+about Mr. Damant&rsquo;s position, and there was an air of authenticity
+about the report which made me feel sure that some catastrophe had
+occurred, and that he was in sore need. I said to Thangal Major,
+&ldquo;We will take off fifty per cent. for exaggeration, and even then
+the garrison of Kohima will be so weakened that it is sure to be
+attacked, and there will be a rising in the Naga Hills.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I instantly took my resolve and detained my escort of the 34th B.I.,
+which had just been relieved by a party of Frontier Police, and was
+about to march for Cachar. I also applied to the Maharajah for nine
+hundred Manipuris, and sufficient coolies to convey our baggage. He at
+once promised them, and I made arrangements to march as soon as the men
+were ready; but there was some delay, as the men had to be collected
+from distant villages. The next morning, before sunrise, Thangal Major
+came to see me, bringing two letters from Mr. Cawley, Assistant
+Political Agent, Naga Hills, and District Superintendent of Police. The
+letters told <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb150" href="#pb150" name=
+"pb150">150</a>]</span>me that Mr. Damant had been killed by the Konoma
+men, and that he and the remainder were besieged in Kohima, and sorely
+pressed by Nagas of several villages. Immediately after this, the
+Maharajah himself came and placed his whole resources at my disposal,
+and asked me what I would have. I said two thousand men, and he replied
+that that was the number he himself thought necessary, and asked if he
+should fire the usual five alarm guns, as a signal to call every
+able-bodied man to the capital. I consented, and in ten minutes they
+thundered forth their summons. Coolies to carry the loads were the
+chief difficulty, as they, being hill-men, lived at a greater distance.
+I also despatched a special messenger to Cachar to ask for more troops
+and a doctor; and I made arrangements for assisting them on the road. I
+despatched two hundred Manipuris by a difficult and little-frequented
+path to Paplongmai (Kenoma<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1948src" href=
+"#xd20e1948" name="xd20e1948src">2</a>), to make a diversion in the
+rear of Konoma, as, from all I heard, it seemed that the astute Mozuma
+was not involved. I sent on a man I could trust to the Mozuma people,
+to secure their neutrality. I also sent my Naga interpreter, Patakee,
+to Kohima, to do his best to spread dissension amongst its seven
+different clans and prevent their uniting against me. I gave him a
+pony, and told him to ride it till it dropped under him, and then to
+march on foot for his life, and promised him 200 rupees reward if he
+could deliver a letter to Mr. Cawley before the place fell. In the
+letter I begged Mr. Cawley to hold out to the last as I was marching to
+his assistance. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb151" href="#pb151"
+name="pb151">151</a>]</span></p>
+<p>One day, about a year before, a fine young Naga of Viswema, a
+powerful village of 1000 houses, a few miles beyond the frontier of
+Manipur and right on our track, had come to me and asked me to take him
+into my service. I did so, thinking he might be useful some day, and
+now that the day had arrived, I sent him off to his people to win them
+over, threatening to exterminate them if they opposed my march.</p>
+<p>I had fifty men of the Cachar Police and thirty-four of the 34th
+B.I., including two invalids, one of them a Naik, by name Buldeo
+Doobey, who came out of hospital to go with me, as I wanted every man
+who could shoulder a musket. For the same reason I enlisted a
+volunteer, Narain Singh, a fine fellow, a J&acirc;t<a class="noteref"
+id="xd20e1958src" href="#xd20e1958" name="xd20e1958src">3</a> from
+beyond Delhi, who had served in the 35th B.I., so he took a
+breach-loader belonging to a sick man of the 34th. I shall refer to him
+again. He carried one hundred and twenty rounds of ball cartridge on
+his person, three times as much as the men of the 34th. I sent off my
+combined escort with all the Manipuris who were ready under Thangal
+Major, and stayed behind to collect and despatch supplies and write
+official letters and send off telegrams to Sir Steuart Bayley, and on
+the 23rd rode out, and caught up my men at Mayang Khang, forty miles
+from Manipur. The rear-guard of the 34th had not come up when I went to
+bed that night at 11 <span class="sc">P.M.</span></p>
+<p>I left my poor wife still very weak and I was thankful that she had
+her good sister as a stay and support. Just before leaving, our
+youngest boy <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb152" href="#pb152" name=
+"pb152">152</a>]</span>Arthur held out his arms to be taken. I paused
+from my work for a moment and took him. It was the last time I saw him.
+Sad as was my parting, I rode off in high spirits; who would not do so
+when he feels that he may be privileged to do his country signal
+service! Besides, I hoped to find all well when I returned.</p>
+<p>We left Mayang Khang on October 24th and marched to Mythephum,
+twenty miles along a terribly difficult mountain path, much overgrown
+by jungle. It was all I could do to get the 34th along, as they were
+completely knocked up. I had a pony which I lent for part of the way to
+one of my invalids and so helped him on. I was continually obliged to
+halt myself and wait for the stragglers, cheer them up, and then run to
+the front again. Narain Singh was invaluable and seemed not to know
+fatigue. We reached Mythephum after dark, but the rear-guard did not
+arrive till next morning.</p>
+<p>At Mythephum I mustered my forces. The Maharajah had sent the Jubraj
+and Kotwal Koireng with me (little did I think of the fate in store for
+them and for old Thangal<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1975src" href=
+"#xd20e1975" name="xd20e1975src">4</a>) and found that very few
+Manipuris had arrived, and almost all of the force with me were so
+knocked up that, to my intense disappointment, I had to make a halt. I
+was too restless to sit still, so spent the day in reconnoitring the
+country. In the evening I had an interview with Thangal Major and
+afterwards with the Jubraj. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb153" href=
+"#pb153" name="pb153">153</a>]</span>Old Thangal was for halting till
+we could collect a large force as he said a large one was required, and
+he begged me to halt for a few days. I finally pointed out that a
+day&rsquo;s halt might cause the annihilation of the garrison of
+Kohima, and said that if the Manipuris were not ready to move, I would
+go along with any of my own men who could march. I appealed to the
+Jubraj to support me which he did,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1982src"
+href="#xd20e1982" name="xd20e1982src">5</a> and for which I was ever
+grateful, and we arranged to march next day. I found that the Nagas of
+Manipur were infected with a rebellious spirit, and not entirely to be
+depended on, and any vacillation on our part might have been fatal, and
+would certainly have sealed the fate of Kohima.</p>
+<p>We left Mythephum at daybreak on the 26th, and marched as hard as we
+could, as I hoped to cover the forty miles to Kohima by nightfall. We
+stopped to drink water at the Mao river, which we forded, and to
+prevent men wasting time, I drew my revolver and threatened to shoot
+any one who dawdled. We ascended the steep hillside, and passing
+through one of the villages marched on to Khoijami, a village on the
+English side of the border. We had been so long, owing to the extreme
+badness of the roads, and the fatigue of the men, that we only reached
+it at 3 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, so I reluctantly halted for the
+night.</p>
+<p>Here my emissary to Viswema joined me, and told me that he had
+induced his fellow-villagers to be friendly, and that presents would be
+sent. I sent him back to demand hostages, and the formal submission
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb154" href="#pb154" name=
+"pb154">154</a>]</span>of the village, as otherwise I would attack them
+on the morrow and spare no one. It was not a time for soft speeches,
+and I heard rumours that we were to be opposed next day.</p>
+<p>Late in the afternoon some Mao Nagas brought in seven Nepaulee
+coolies who had escaped from Kohima the previous day, and wandered
+through the jungle expecting every moment to be killed. I gave the Mao
+men twenty rupees as a reward. The Nepaulees said that they had been
+shut outside the gate of the stockade by mistake, and had hidden
+themselves and so got away. They gave a deplorable account of affairs,
+and said that there was no food, and that the ammunition was almost all
+spent, and that two ladies were in the stockade, Mrs. Damant and Mrs.
+Cawley. They stated that Mr. Damant was taken unawares and shot dead,
+and fifty men killed on the spot, and that thirty ran away and hid in
+the jungles, some saving their arms, others not. Each man had fifty
+rounds of ball cartridge. Most of the rifles lost were breech-loaders.
+The men told me that early that morning they had seen smoke rising from
+Kohima, and thought it might have been burned.</p>
+<p>All this made me very anxious, as the men said that Mr. Cawley was
+treating for a safe passage to Samagudting. Late in the evening I heard
+that a building inside the stockade had been burned by the Nagas, who
+threw stones wrapped in burning cloth on to the thatched roofs. The
+Nagas in arms were said to number six thousand, and they had erected a
+stockade opposite ours from which they fired. The fugitives were in a
+miserable state of semi-starvation, <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb155" href="#pb155" name="pb155">155</a>]</span>and ashy pale from
+terror, and seemed more dead than alive when they were brought to me.
+We slept on our arms that night, at least such as could sleep, and rose
+at 3 <span class="sc">A.M.</span> in case of an attack, that being a
+favourite time for the Nagas to make one.</p>
+<p>When ready, I addressed my men, telling them the danger of the
+enterprise, but assuring them of its success, and urging them, in case
+of my being killed or wounded, to leave me and push on to save the
+garrison. I promised the Frontier Police that every man should be
+promoted if we reached Kohima safely that night. This promise the
+Government faithfully kept.</p>
+<p>At sunrise I received two little slips of paper brought by two
+Nepaulese coolies who had managed to escape, signed by Mr. Hinde, Extra
+Assistant Commissioner, and hidden by them in their hair. On them was
+written:&mdash;</p>
+<div class="blockquote">
+<p class="first">Surrounded by Nagas, cut off from water Must be
+relieved at once. Send flying column to bring away garrison at once.
+Relief must be immediate to be of any use</p>
+<p class="signed">H. M. Hinde. A. P. A. Kohima. 25 x. 79.</p>
+</div>
+<p>and&mdash;</p>
+<div class="blockquote">
+<p class="first">We are in extremity, come on sharp Kohima not
+abandoned.<br>
+Kohima not abandoned</p>
+<p class="signed">H. M. Hinde. A. P. A. 26 x. 79.</p>
+</div>
+<p>After getting these, I could not wait any longer, and, as the
+Manipuris were not all ready, I started off at once with fifty of them
+under an old officer, Eerungba Polla and sixty of my escort, all that
+were able to make a rapid march, and Narain Singh. We carried with us
+my camp Union Jack. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb156" href="#pb156"
+name="pb156">156</a>]</span></p>
+<p>I obtained hostages from Viswema and placed them under a guard with
+orders to shoot them instantly, if we were attacked, and on our arrival
+at the village we were well received. At Rigwema, as we afterwards
+discovered, a force of Nagas was placed in ambush to attack us, but the
+precautions we took prevented their doing so, and we passed on
+unmolested, and soon had the satisfaction of seeing the stockade at
+Kohima still intact. A few miles farther, and on rounding the spur of a
+hill, the stockade appeared in full view and we sounded our bugles
+which were quickly answered by a flourish from Kohima.</p>
+<p>We marched on with our standard flying, we reached the valley below,
+we began the ascent of the last slope, and forming into as good order
+as the ground would allow, we at last gained the summit and saw the
+stockade, to save which, we had marched so far and so well, before us
+at a distance of one hundred yards.</p>
+<p>The garrison gave a loud cheer, which we answered, and numbers of
+them poured out. Messrs. Cawley and Hinde grasped my hand, and others
+of the garrison formed a line on either side of the gateway, and we
+marched in between them. I recognised many old faces not seen since I
+had left the Naga Hills in 1874, and warmly greeted them; especially
+Mema Ram, a Subadar in the Frontier Police; Kurum Singh, and others. I
+was told afterwards that when Mema Ram first heard that I was marching
+to their relief, he said, &ldquo;Oh, if Johnstone Sahib is coming we
+are all right.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I at once told the officers of the garrison that <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb157" href="#pb157" name=
+"pb157">157</a>]</span>there could be no divided authority, and that
+they must consider themselves subject to my orders, to which they
+agreed. I then saw the poor widowed Mrs. Damant, and Mrs. Cawley who
+had behaved nobly during the siege. While talking to the last, one of
+her two children asked for some water. Her mother said in a feeling
+tone, &ldquo;Yes, my dear, you can have some now.&rdquo; Seldom have I
+heard words that sounded more eloquent.</p>
+<p>The Manipuris now began to pour in, in one long stream, and were
+greeted by the garrison with effusion, and I gave them the site of a
+stockade that had been destroyed by Mr. Cawley, in order to reduce the
+space to be defended as much as possible, and told them to stockade
+themselves, which they did at once. After arranging for the defence of
+our position, I sent off a letter to my wife to say that I was safe,
+and that Kohima had been relieved, and telegrams to the Chief
+Commissioner, and Government of India, to be sent on at once to Cachar,
+the nearest telegraph office, informing them of the good news.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2042width"><img src="images/p157.jpg" alt=
+"Colonel Johnstone, the Princes of Manipur, Thangal Major, the European Officers in Kohima, etc."
+width="720" height="454">
+<p class="figureHead">Colonel Johnstone, the Princes of Manipur,
+Thangal Major, the European Officers in Kohima, etc.</p>
+<p class="first">[<i>Page 157.</i></p>
+</div>
+<p>It appeared from what Mr. Cawley told me, that on the 14th of
+October, Mr. Damant had gone to Konoma from Jotsoma, to try and enforce
+some demands he had made. He had been warned several times that the
+Merema Clan of Konoma meant mischief, and several Nagas had implored
+him not to go, and finding him deaf to their entreaties, begged him to
+go through the friendly Semema Clan&rsquo;s quarter of the village.
+However, he insisted on having his own way, and went to the gate of the
+Merema Clan at the top of a steep, narrow path. The <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb158" href="#pb158" name="pb158">158</a>]</span>gate
+was closed, and while demanding an entrance, he was shot dead. His men
+were massed in rear of him, and a large number were at once shot down,
+while the others took to flight. Some of the fugitives reached Kohima
+that night, and Mr. Cawley at once, grasping the gravity of the
+situation, pulled down one stockade, and dismantled the buildings as
+already related, concentrating all his men in the other, and making it
+as strong as possible. The neighbouring villages had already risen, and
+were sending contingents to attack Kohima.</p>
+<p>Mr. Cawley had just time to send a messenger to Mr. Hinde, the
+extra-Assistant Commissioner at Woka, a distance of sixty-three miles,
+ordering him to come in with the detachment of fifty police under him.
+These orders Mr. Hinde most skilfully carried out, by marching only at
+night, and on the 19th he reached Kohima, thus strengthening the
+garrison and making it more able to hold its own, for the number of the
+attacking party now greatly increased.</p>
+<p>Most fortunately, owing to the zealous care of Major T. N. Walker,
+44th R. L. Infantry, there were some rations in reserve for the troops,
+which were shared with the non-combatants and police. These he had
+insisted on being collected and stored up, when he paid a visit of
+inspection to Kohima some months before. But for this small stock the
+place could not have held out for two days, but must inevitably have
+fallen, as all supplies were cut off during the progress of the siege.
+The water was poisoned by having a human head thrown into it. The Nagas
+fired at the stockade continually, but <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb159" href="#pb159" name="pb159">159</a>]</span>made no regular
+assault. They seemed to have tried picking off every man who showed
+himself, and starving out the garrison. The quantity of jungle that had
+been allowed to remain standing all round afforded them admirable
+cover, and, as before stated, they erected another small stockade from
+which to fire. This they constantly brought nearer and nearer by moving
+the timbers.</p>
+<p>At length, the garrison wearied out, entered into negotiations, and
+agreed to surrender the stockade, if allowed a free passage to
+Samagudting. This fatal arrangement would have been carried into effect
+within an hour or two, had not my letter arrived assuring them of help.
+What the result would have been no one who knows the Nagas can doubt;
+545 headless and naked bodies would have been lying outside the
+blockade. Five hundred stands of arms, and 250,000 rounds of ammunition
+would have been in possession of the enemy, enough to keep the hills in
+a blaze for three years, and to give employment to half-a-dozen
+regiments during all that time, and to oblige an expenditure of a
+million sterling, to say nothing of valuable lives.<a class="noteref"
+id="xd20e2062src" href="#xd20e2062" name="xd20e2062src">6</a></p>
+<p>Throughout the siege, Mrs. Damant, and Mrs. Cawley had displayed
+much heroism. The first undertook to look after the wounded, and went
+to visit them daily, exposed to the enemy&rsquo;s fire. Mrs. Cawley
+took charge of the women and children of <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb160" href="#pb160" name="pb160">160</a>]</span>the sepoys, and
+looked after them, keeping them in a sheltered spot. The poor little
+children could not understand the situation at all, or why it was that
+the Nagas were firing.</p>
+<p>The casualties would have been more numerous than they were, but
+that the Nagas were careful of the cherished ammunition, and seldom
+fired, unless pretty sure of hitting. All the same, the situation was a
+very critical one, and not to be judged by people sitting quietly at
+home by their firesides. It is certainly a very awful thing, after a
+great disaster and massacre, to be shut up in a weak stockade built of
+highly inflammable material, and surrounded by 6000 howling savages who
+spare no one. In addition to that too, to have the water supply cut
+off, and at most ten days&rsquo; full provision; for this was what it
+amounted to. It must be also remembered that the non-combatants far
+out-numbered the combatants, and that the two officers who undertook
+the defence were both civilians. Anyhow, the view taken of it by the
+defenders is shown by the fact that they were willing to surrender to
+the enemy, rather than face the situation and its terrible uncertainty
+any longer, as they were quite in doubt as to whether relief was coming
+or whether their letters having miscarried they would be left to
+perish.</p>
+<p>Looking back, after a lapse of fifteen years, and calmly reviewing
+the events connected with the siege of Kohima, I think I was right at
+the time in describing the defence as a &ldquo;noble one.&rdquo;
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb161" href="#pb161" name=
+"pb161">161</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1931" href="#xd20e1931src" name="xd20e1931">1</a></span> It will
+be seen later on that this rumour was not correct.&mdash;<span class=
+"sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1948" href="#xd20e1948src" name="xd20e1948">2</a></span> A
+different place from Konoma.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1958" href="#xd20e1958src" name="xd20e1958">3</a></span> A
+Sikh.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1975" href="#xd20e1975src" name="xd20e1975">4</a></span> The
+Jubraj, who afterwards reigned as the Maharajah Soor Chandra Singh,
+died in exile; Kotwal Koireng and Thangal Major were hanged in August,
+1891, by order of the sentence passed upon them for resisting the
+British Government.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1982" href="#xd20e1982src" name="xd20e1982">5</a></span> In 1891,
+the Jubraj, then the ex-Maharajah, brought forward this fact in his
+appeal to the British Government, as a reason for his
+restoration.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2062" href="#xd20e2062src" name="xd20e2062">6</a></span> The
+savage mode in which the Nagas conduct their warfare is vividly
+described by a correspondent of the <i>Englishman</i> writing from
+Cachar, January 28, 1880, after a raid on the Baladhun Tea Gardens by a
+band of the same tribe as those of Konoma. He ends with &ldquo;The
+whole was a horribly sickening scene, and a complete wreck; and such
+surely as none but the veriest of devils in human form could have
+perpetrated.&rdquo;&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch18" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XVIII.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Returning order and confidence&mdash;Arrival of Major
+Evans&mdash;Arrival of Major Williamson&mdash;Keeping open
+communication&mdash;Attack on Phesama&mdash;Visit to
+Manipur&mdash;General Nation arrives&mdash;Join him at
+Suchema&mdash;Prepare to attack Konoma&mdash;Assault of Konoma.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Early on the morning of the 28th, I took out all the
+men I could collect and set to work to clear away the jungle in the
+neighbourhood of the stockade so as to give no covert to enemies. I
+also did my utmost to collect supplies. Kohima, with its twelve hundred
+houses, was able to give a little, and I sent to distant villages. I
+also sent to the head-man of Konoma to ask for Mr. Damant&rsquo;s body.
+The man at once sent in the head, but said that the body had been
+destroyed. A true statement, I have no doubt, as the head is all the
+Nagas value, and the body would have been given up instantly had it
+existed. His signet ring, and several other little articles were also
+sent. The head was buried with due honours, the Manipuri chiefs drawing
+up their men and saluting as the funeral procession passed. The Jubraj,
+Soor Chandra Singh, spoke very feelingly on the subject.</p>
+<p>The watercourse, which formerly supplied the garrison, had been
+diverted, and the only other supply had been, as already stated,
+poisoned by a head being thrown into it. My first business was to see
+that the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb162" href="#pb162" name=
+"pb162">162</a>]</span>water communication was restored, to every
+one&rsquo;s comfort. Some of my old acquaintances among the Nagas began
+to come in, and there was a great disposition to be friendly.</p>
+<p>The next day a sepoy of the 43rd, who had escaped the massacre and
+lived in the jungle, was brought in by some friendly Nagas. He was
+almost out of his mind, and nearly speechless from terror, and could
+not walk, so was carried on the man&rsquo;s back.</p>
+<p>I made up my mind to attack Konoma as soon as I could, and the
+people knowing this, tried negotiations with my Manipuri allies. So
+great was the fear we inspired that at first I believe I could without
+difficulty have imposed more severe terms than were obtained later on
+after four months&rsquo; fighting. With Asiatics especially, everything
+depends on the vigour with which an enterprise is pushed forward. The
+Nagas never expecting an attack from the side of Manipur, were at first
+paralysed. All the villages were without any but the most rudimentary
+defences, in addition to those which nature had given them from their
+position; not one of them could have stood against a well-directed
+attack.</p>
+<p>I was in the midst of my preparations when, on the 30th October,
+Major (now Major-General) Evans, of the 43rd Assam Light Infantry,
+arrived with two hundred men, who had come with him from Dibroogurh. I
+also received a telegram saying that General Nation was coming up with
+one thousand men and two mountain-guns, and might be expected on the
+9th November. I was also given strict orders to engage in no active
+operations till his arrival. These orders I at first disregarded,
+feeling the urgent <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb163" href="#pb163"
+name="pb163">163</a>]</span>necessity of instant action before the
+Nagas had time to recover from their surprise. However, next day the
+order was reiterated so strongly, and in the Chief Commissioner&rsquo;s
+name, that, believing that the Government had some special reason for
+the order, I accepted it, much to my disappointment, as I felt the
+urgent necessity of an immediate advance. Konoma was still unfortified,
+and a few days would have sufficed to capture it, and place the Naga
+Hills at our feet. As it was, the delay, not till November 9th, but
+November 22nd, owing to defective transport arrangements, gave the
+enemy time to recover, and when we tardily appeared before Konoma, we
+found a scientifically defended fortress, whose capture cost us many
+valuable lives. The order, it subsequently appeared, was not issued by
+Sir Steuart Bayley,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2100src" href=
+"#xd20e2100" name="xd20e2100src">1</a> and was altogether due to a
+misapprehension. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb164" href="#pb164"
+name="pb164">164</a>]</span></p>
+<p>As there was to be no immediate work, I urged Major Evans to take up
+his post at Samagudting, where a magazine containing 200,000 rounds of
+ammunition was very inefficiently guarded; he, however, left a
+subaltern, Lieut. (now Captain) Barrett with me, as I wanted another
+officer. On their way, some men of the 43rd had shot two Nagas, one a
+relation of the chief of the Hepromah clan of Kohima, a most
+unfortunate proceeding, and quite uncalled for, as the men were quietly
+working in their fields. I was already sufficiently embarrassed by the
+promises made by the garrison to the <i>so-called friendly</i> clans of
+Kohima, to induce them to be neutral during the siege, and which I felt
+bound to keep, and this additional complication added to my troubles.
+People situated as the garrison were should make no promises except in
+return for real help.</p>
+<p>All this time troops and supplies came pouring in from Manipur in
+one long thin stream, and the greatest efforts were made to collect
+supplies on the spot. I also forced the unfriendly Chitonoma clan of
+Kohima to surrender six rifles they had captured, and to pay a fine of
+200 maunds of rice. We had been expecting a force of Kuki irregulars
+from Manipur; these now arrived, and I had a talk with the chief, who
+said: &ldquo;Our great desire is to attack <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb165" href="#pb165" name="pb165">165</a>]</span>that
+village,&rdquo; pointing to Kohima, &ldquo;and to kill every man,
+woman, and child in it!&rdquo; He looked as if he meant it.</p>
+<p>One day a cat was caught that had given great trouble stealing
+provisions, etc., we all wanted to get rid of it, but Hindoos do not
+like having cats killed, and I respected their prejudices when
+possible, and there were many Hindoos about us, so I said, &ldquo;I
+won&rsquo;t have it killed, unless some one wants to eat it.&rdquo; A
+Kuki soon came and asked to be allowed to make a dinner of it, and then
+I gave my consent, and our scourge was removed. I once asked a sepoy of
+my old regiment why they objected to killing cats. He said,
+&ldquo;People do say that if you kill a cat now you will have to give a
+golden cat in exchange in the next world as a punishment, and where are
+we to get one?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>To keep open communications, I established Manipuri posts in strong
+stockades at all the principal villages on the road to the frontier,
+and had daily posts from Manipur. To my great distress, I heard that my
+youngest boy, Arthur, was ill, and my wife in much anxiety about him;
+but I could not leave to help her.</p>
+<p>Our forced inaction had, as I anticipated, been misinterpreted by
+the Nagas. Some decisive action was much needed, and I attacked the
+hostile Chitonoma clan of Kohima, and destroyed part of their village.
+On the 10th, as a party of men were bringing in provisions from
+Manipur, they had been attacked by some of the Chitonoma clan in the
+valley below our position. I heard the firing, and ran out of the
+stockade with a party to drive off the enemy. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb166" href="#pb166" name="pb166">166</a>]</span></p>
+<p>At the gate, a man who had just arrived, put a letter in my hand. I
+read it anxiously, it told me that my child was dead. My wife and I had
+chosen a spot at Kang-joop-kool where we wished to be buried in case
+either of us died, and there she buried him.</p>
+<p>We soon cleared out the Chitonoma men, and I found that with the
+troops escorting the provisions was Dr. Campbell from Cachar, whose
+arrival was very welcome. I remember in connection with him a striking
+incident showing the courage of Manipuris in suffering. A man who had
+been wounded in an encounter had to have an operation performed on his
+arm. Dr. Campbell wanted to give him chloroform as it would be very
+painful. But the man refused, saying, &ldquo;I will not take anything
+that intoxicates,&rdquo; and at once held out his arm and submitted to
+the knife without flinching!</p>
+<p>Every day the delay in the commencement of active operations made
+the Nagas more and more confident, and some vigorous action on our part
+was absolutely necessary. I heard from spies that our Manipuri post at
+Phesama was about to be attacked by the people of the village, who held
+nightly converse with emissaries from Konoma. I therefore determined to
+punish Phesama, which was not far from Kohima, and on November 11th, I
+sent a party of Manipuris and Kukis who destroyed the village in a
+night attack, and killed a large number of people. They brought in
+twenty-one women and children as prisoners whom the Manipuris had saved
+from the Kukis, who would have spared neither age nor sex had they gone
+alone. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb167" href="#pb167" name=
+"pb167">167</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The next day my old friend Captain Williamson arrived to act as my
+assistant, I having been appointed Chief Political Officer with the
+Field Force that was being formed. Having now a competent man to leave
+in charge, I determined to go to Manipur for a few days, and marched to
+Mythephum on the 13th, and rode thence on the 14th to Manipur,
+accomplishing the whole distance of over 100 miles in thirty-one and a
+half hours. I stayed one day in Manipur and then returned, reaching
+Kohima on the 17th.</p>
+<p>On November 20th, General Nation having arrived at Suchema, ten
+miles from Kohima, Williamson and I left to join him. We were fired at
+on the road, but got in safely and found all well and in good spirits.
+The troops consisted of 43rd and 44th Assam Light Infantry and two
+seven-pound mountain-guns under Lieut. Mansel, R.A. Lieut. (now Major)
+Raban, R.E., was engineer-officer and Deputy Surgeon-General (now
+Surgeon-General, C.B.) De Renzy was in charge of the Medical
+Department. Major Cock, a well-known soldier and sportsman, was Brigade
+Major.</p>
+<p>On the 21st, the guns arrived on elephants, and feeling sure that no
+proper carriage could have been provided for their transport, I had
+taken the precaution to bring one hundred Kuki coolies to carry them.
+The assault was to be next day. Mozuma remained neutral, and even gave
+us a few coolies and guides.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2138src" href=
+"#xd20e2138" name="xd20e2138src">2</a> <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb168" href="#pb168" name="pb168">168</a>]</span></p>
+<p>How well I remember the night of the 21st. Williamson and I dined
+with the General and all the staff, and poor Cock, great on all
+sporting subjects, told us in the most animated way, stories of whaling
+adventures when he was on leave at the Cape. He warmed to his subject
+and greatly interested us; he was a fine gaunt man of over six feet in
+height, and great strength and ready for any enterprise; some of the
+Mozuma Nagas knew him and liked him as they had, years before, been on
+shooting expeditions with him in the Nowgong jungles. Besides this we
+had a surgical address from Dr. De Renzy, who told us what to do if any
+of us were wounded. How we all laughed over it, he joining us. I knew
+we should have some hard fighting, but we all counted on carrying
+everything before us with a rush, and who is there who expects to be
+wounded? We are ready for it if it comes, but we all think that we are
+to be the exception. It is as well that it is so.</p>
+<p>We were under arms at 4.30 <span class="sc">A.M.</span> on the 22nd.
+The first party consisting of two companies of the 43rd Assam Light
+Infantry and twenty-eight Naga Hills Police, under Major Evans and
+Lieut. Barrett, conducted by Captain Williamson, who knew the country,
+were directed to proceed to the rear of Konoma and occupy the saddle
+connecting the spur on which it is built with the main road, so as to
+cut off the line of retreat.</p>
+<p>At 7.30 <span class="sc">A.M.</span>, the remaining portion of the
+force <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb169" href="#pb169" name=
+"pb169">169</a>]</span>marched off. We all went together to the Mozuma
+Hill, where Lieut. Raban, R.E., was detached with part of a rocket
+battery, to take up a position on the hillside and open fire on Konoma,
+simultaneously with the guns. A small force was left in Suchema, to
+which, on my own responsibility, I added one hundred and ten Kuki
+irregulars, as I thought it dangerously small for a place containing
+all our stores and reserve ammunition. At the General&rsquo;s request,
+I had posted a force of two hundred men in a valley to intercept
+fugitives, and cut them off from Jotsuma.</p>
+<p>After leaving Lieut. Raban, we crossed the valley dividing Mozuma
+and Konoma, and when half-way between the hills, Lieut. Ridgeway (now
+Colonel Ridgeway, V.C.) was sent with a company of the 44th to skirmish
+up to the Konoma hill. The main body with the guns then gradually
+ascended to the Government Road. Just before reaching it, we found a
+headless Aryan corpse in a stream, it was probably that of a sepoy of
+the 43rd, who formed part of Mr. Damant&rsquo;s ill-fated
+expedition.</p>
+<p>After going for a short distance along the road, we found a place up
+which the guns could go, and a party of fifty men under Lieut.
+Henderson, 44th Assam Light Infantry, was sent ahead to skirmish up the
+hillside, the guns carried by my coolies following with the General and
+his Staff, including myself. As we ascended the hill, Colonel Nuttall,
+with the remainder of the 44th, exclusive of the gun escort, proceeded
+along the road, crossing the small valley that divides the Konoma hill
+from the ridge of the Basoma hill which we were ascending, a few
+hundred <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb170" href="#pb170" name=
+"pb170">170</a>]</span>yards from where it joins the main valley, and
+halted at the foot. After incredible labour, we succeeded in getting
+the guns into position at about 1200 yards distance from the highest
+point of Konoma, and at once opened fire, while Lieut. Raban did the
+same with his rockets which, however, for the most part fell short over
+the heads of Lieut. Ridgeway&rsquo;s party, though once two struck the
+village. On being signalled, Lieut. Raban withdrew his rockets and
+joined us. Meanwhile, the guns had made little impression on the
+people, and none on the stone forts of Konoma, but the 44th were
+advancing gallantly to the attack up the steep ascent to the village, a
+brisk fire being kept up on both sides.</p>
+<p>At about 2.30, the position of the guns was changed, and they were
+advanced to within eight hundred yards of the works, here one of my gun
+coolies was wounded by a shot from the village. The change of position
+had little effect, and Lieutenant Henderson&rsquo;s party which had
+skirmished along the hillside, effectually prevented the enemy from
+evacuating his strong position.</p>
+<p>At this time we saw a body of men on the ridge above Konoma, and a
+gun and rocket fire was opened on them, but speedily stopped as the
+regimental call of the 43rd sounding in the distance, followed by a
+close observation with our glasses, led us to the conclusion that it
+was the party with Captain Williamson and not the enemy who occupied
+the point at which we had directed our fire. Subsequently it was
+discovered that the stockade there had been captured and occupied by
+the party of the 43rd. After firing a few shots from our new
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb171" href="#pb171" name=
+"pb171">171</a>]</span>position, and imagining that the force under
+Colonel Nuttall was in full possession of the hill we unlimbered, and,
+crossing the small valley before mentioned, we followed Mr.
+Damant&rsquo;s path up the hill, entering the village by the gate where
+he met his death. As we neared the place where we had last seen Colonel
+Nuttall&rsquo;s party, ominous sights met our eyes, dead bodies here
+and there and men badly wounded, while sepoys left in charge of the
+latter told us that the Nagas were still holding out in the upper
+forts. After advancing a few paces further we had to pick our way over
+ground studded with pangees,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2171src" href=
+"#xd20e2171" name="xd20e2171src">3</a> and covered with thorns and
+bamboo and cane entanglements, exposed to the fire of the enemy, and
+passing the bodies of several Nagas we ascended a kind of staircase,
+and after again passing under the Naga fire climbed up a <span class=
+"corr" id="xd20e2174" title=
+"Source: perpenpicular">perpendicular</span> stone wall and found
+ourselves in a small tower, which, with the adjoining work, was held by
+a small party of the 44th. I asked Colonel Nuttall where all his men
+were, and he pointed to the handful around him and said, &ldquo;These
+are all.&rdquo; The situation was indeed a desperate one, and I felt
+that without some immediate action our power in the Naga Hills for the
+moment trembled in the balance. The needed action was taken as the guns
+had now arrived under a heavy fire, and they opened on the upper forts
+at a distance of eighty to one hundred yards, Lieutenant Mansel and his
+three European bombardiers pointing them, fully exposed to the fire of
+the enemy. I strongly urged on the General the necessity of making an
+attempt to dislodge him <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb172" href=
+"#pb172" name="pb172">172</a>]</span>before nightfall, and he was about
+to lead out a party to the attack when it was deemed more prudent to
+try the guns from another point first. After a series of rounds with
+such heavy charges that the guns were upset at every shot, the order
+for the assault was given, and we all rushed out in two parties, led by
+nine officers, viz., General Nation, Colonel Nuttall, Major Cock, Major
+Walker, Lieutenant Ridgeway, Lieutenant Raban, Lieutenant Boileau,
+Lieutenant Forbes, and myself, with all the men we could collect. The
+party I was with, which included the general, Colonel Nuttall, and
+Major Cock, attempted to scale the front face of the fort, the other
+the left, <i>i.e.</i>, on our right. The right column of attack led by
+Ridgeway and Forbes advanced splendidly; I seem to hear to this day
+Ridgeway&rsquo;s shout of &ldquo;Chulleao,&rdquo; <i>i.e.</i>,
+&ldquo;Come along,&rdquo; to his men as he dashed to the front, and I
+saw him mounting the parapet.</p>
+<p>The Nagas met us with a heavy fire and showers of spears and stones.
+One of the spears struck Forbes, and Ridgeway was badly wounded in the
+left shoulder by a shot fired at ten paces, and Nir Beer Sai, a gallant
+subadar, shot dead. My faithful orderly, Narain Singh, was also killed.
+Unfortunately we had no force to support the assaulting parties and the
+men began to retire. While this was doing on the right, our column, the
+left, was scaling an almost perpendicular wall in front but
+unsuccessfully, as those of us not killed were pushed back by showers
+of falling stones and earth, and as we alighted at a lower level the
+remnants of the right column who were retiring met us. I tried to
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb173" href="#pb173" name=
+"pb173">173</a>]</span>rally them, but I was a stranger to them and it
+was no use. Lieutenant Raban was equally unsuccessful, the men had
+acted gallantly, but our party was too small, and as I had before
+predicted the fire was concentrated on the European officers. Major
+Cock walked back leisurely to get under cover, and just before he
+reached it turned round to take a parting shot. I saw him thus far, and
+immediately after heard that he had been shot. Seeing that our only
+chance of safety lay in a retreat, I shouted to Mansel to open an
+artillery fire over our heads which he did, this saved us. In another
+minute, the general, Colonel Nuttall, myself and five sepoys were the
+only men left. I suggested to the former that we had better go too and
+retire, which we did over the embers of a burning house.</p>
+<p>As I retired with the General we found Major Cock mortally wounded,
+laid under cover in a sheltered spot; a little farther on under a heavy
+fire we met Lieutenant Boileau bringing out a stretcher for him. As
+Cock was being carried in, a bearer was shot dead, and Dr. Campbell
+took his place and brought him into hospital.</p>
+<p>It was a strange situation, as in our retreat we were alternately
+exposed to a fire, and quite sheltered. Luckily the place selected for
+a hospital was safe, and there a sad sight met my eyes. In the short
+period that elapsed between the commencement of the assault and my
+return, the hospital had been filled. Young Forbes was on his back,
+pale as a sheet, but cheerful. Ridgeway flushed with the glow of battle
+on him. &ldquo;Certamis gaudia,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;I hope you are
+not much hurt.&rdquo; &ldquo;Only my <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb174" href="#pb174" name="pb174">174</a>]</span>shoulder
+smashed,&rdquo; he said. Colonel Nuttall was slightly wounded, making
+four out of nine Europeans. Besides these were men of the 44th of all
+ranks, some almost insensible, others in great pain, some composed,
+others despondent. Outside lay a heap of dead. Twenty-five per cent. of
+the native ranks had fallen, killed or wounded. Some of my gun coolies
+were among the latter, besides one or two killed.</p>
+<p>I remember a wounded Kuki who was supporting himself by leaning
+against a great vat of Naga beer prepared to refresh the defenders of
+the fortress, and by him lay a dead Naga. The Kuki had a dao (sword) in
+his hand, and every now and then he fortified himself with a deep
+draught of the grateful fluid, and thus strengthened made a savage cut
+at the body of his foe.</p>
+<p>We had captured all but the highest forts, and a renewed attack with
+our small numbers was out of the question, as night was closing in, and
+we were very anxious as to the safety of our detached parties under
+Evans, Macgregor, and Henderson.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2200src"
+href="#xd20e2200" name="xd20e2200src">4</a></p>
+<p>It was determined to remain where we were for the night, and
+Lieutenant Raban represented to the General the necessity of fortifying
+our position. This duty he and Mansel and I undertook, I bringing my
+Kuki coolies to the work, which we accomplished by 7 <span class=
+"sc">P.M.</span> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb175" href="#pb175"
+name="pb175">175</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2100" href="#xd20e2100src" name="xd20e2100">1</a></span> The
+order came in a telegram purporting to be from the Chief Commissioner,
+and by whom really transmitted is a mystery. The Deputy-Assistant
+Quartermaster General&rsquo;s Report of this Naga Hill Expedition
+states, that after Lieutenant-Colonel Johnstone&rsquo;s Kuki levies had
+attacked Phesama, and killed about two hundred of the enemy in
+consequence of the loss of some of their own men from an assault from
+this village, the Manipuri army performed no other operation in this
+war (except as coolies and bringing in supplies, and in this respect
+they were invaluable). But he adds, &ldquo;Colonel Johnstone, it is
+understood, was anxious to attack Konoma on his own account without
+waiting for General Nation and the troops.&rdquo; Colonel Johnstone
+explained in a memorandum that no arrangements had been made by the
+military authorities for the carriage of the guns, and that up to the
+evening before the attack on Konoma he had received no request for
+coolies, but foreseeing some neglect of this kind he had kept over one
+hundred reliable Manipuris for the work, and without them the guns
+could not have gone into action. As to the rest of his levy, they had
+lost three hundred men by sickness, and like all irregulars, had been
+injured by the long delay and enforced idleness. They had also been
+already fired upon by our troops in mistake for Nagas, and he feared
+some unfortunate complication if he brought them again to the front.
+But one hundred and fifty at the request of General Nation were posted
+in the valley to intercept fugitives, and they did what they were told.
+Another force was also left to help to protect the camp at Suchema.
+Colonel Johnstone therein states that he felt confident he could have
+captured Konoma with his Manipuris alone, directly after the relief of
+Kohima. The Konoma men, in fact, offered to submit on harsher terms to
+themselves to Colonel Johnstone than were afterwards wrested from them
+by General Nation with the loss of valuable lives, and at a heavy
+pecuniary cost.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2138" href="#xd20e2138src" name="xd20e2138">2</a></span> I also
+heard from an old Mozuma friend, Lotoj&eacute;, that the enemy intended
+to concentrate all his fire on the officers, so as to render the men
+helpless. I told this to the General and Major Cock, and strongly
+advised them to do as I did, and cover their white helmets with blue
+turbans to render themselves less conspicuous, urging the
+inadvisability of needlessly rendering themselves marks for the
+enemy&rsquo;s fire. The General refused, and Cock said he should do as
+the General did, so I said no more; admiring their dogged courage, but
+wishing that they would take advice.</p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2171" href="#xd20e2171src" name="xd20e2171">3</a></span> Sharp
+stakes of bamboo hardened in the fire.</p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2200" href="#xd20e2200src" name="xd20e2200">4</a></span> The
+official medical report of this campaign gives a deplorable account of
+the sufferings of the wounded, and the gangrene which affected the
+wounds in consequence of the extremely insanitary condition of the Naga
+villages and stockades, where the Naga warriors had been congregated
+for weeks expecting the attack&mdash;an additional reason why the
+immediate pursuit into their strongholds which Colonel Johnstone had
+recommended after the relief of Kohima should have been carried
+out&mdash;failing the acceptance of the harsh terms of peace. See
+<i>ante</i>.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch19" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XIX.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Konoma evacuated&mdash;Journey to Suchema for
+provisions and ammunition, and return&mdash;We march to Suchema with
+General&mdash;Visit Manipur&mdash;Very ill&mdash;Meet Sir Steuart
+Bayley in Cachar&mdash;His visit to Manipur&mdash;Grand
+reception&mdash;Star of India&mdash;Chussad attack on
+Chingsow&mdash;March to Kohima and back&mdash;Reflections on
+Maharajah&rsquo;s services&mdash;Naga Hills campaign overshadowed by
+Afghan War.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">General Nation had intended to capture Konoma and
+return to Suchema at once, but the stout resistance offered by the
+Nagas upset all calculations, and we were thus stranded without warm
+clothing or provisions on a bleak spot, 5000 or 6000 feet above the
+sea. I sent off some of my Naga emissaries, and induced the neutral men
+of Mozuma to go to Suchema and bring the bedding of the wounded men and
+some food which was done. With difficulty we got enough water to drink,
+but there was none for washing, and when at last we sat down on the
+ground to eat our frugal meal, the doctors had to eat with hands
+covered with blood, indeed, none of our hands were very presentable. At
+last, to our great relief, our <span class="corr" id="xd20e2222" title=
+"Source: detatched">detached</span> parties returned one by one.
+Lieutenant (now Colonel<span class="corr" id="xd20e2225" title=
+"Not in source">)</span> C. R. <span class="corr" id="xd20e2228" title=
+"Source: Macregor">Macgregor</span>, D.S.O.<a id="xd20e2231" name=
+"xd20e2231"></a>, a most gallant and capable officer, had been out all
+day with only fifteen men, and inflicted some injury on the Nagas. He
+was Quartermaster-General of the force, and did good service
+throughout. The accession of numbers was a great relief, as we now
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb176" href="#pb176" name=
+"pb176">176</a>]</span>had the means of renewing the attack next day,
+but ammunition and supplies were required, and Williamson and I
+volunteered to go to Suchema for them next day. The night was very
+cold, but we managed to sleep all huddled up together, the dead lying
+all round us.</p>
+<p>Early next morning, Williamson and I started with all our coolies
+and an escort of fifty men. We saw no signs of the enemy, but came
+across several men of the 43rd who had strayed away from their
+detachments in the dark and hidden in the jungles. At Suchema we found
+all right, but before we got there, we saw our flag flying over Konoma,
+showing, as I had expected, that it had been evacuated during the
+night. This event immediately made our neutral friends of Mozuma, our
+allies, and they gave us hearty assistance, and we took back an ample
+supply of provisions. The Mozuma people told us that the Konoma men had
+never contemplated the possibility of being driven out, and that they
+had stored up 2000 maunds of rice which had fallen into our hands.</p>
+<p>The enemy had retired into some fortified stockades called Chukka on
+the main range to their rear, a most difficult position to attack. I
+offered the General to carry the guns into position for him if he cared
+to assault them, but our loss, especially in officers, had been so
+great that he declined, and probably he was right, as the risk was very
+great if the enemy stood his ground, so the General decided to await
+reinforcements. All the same it was to be regretted that we were unable
+to deliver two or three blows in rapid succession. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb177" href="#pb177" name="pb177">177</a>]</span></p>
+<p>We left a party at Konoma and marched to Suchema with the wounded,
+Ridgeway, with great courage, marching all the way on foot, rather than
+endure the shaking of an improvised litter. On the 27th, I joined a
+force, with which we attacked and destroyed the unfriendly portion of
+Jotsuma, a large and powerful village, and on the 29th, as there was
+nothing else to do, made a rapid journey to Manipur with Lieutenant
+Raban, that he might survey the road as I wanted the trace for a cart
+road cut. We returned on December 4th.</p>
+<p>On December 6th, Williamson and I started for Golaghat, to meet Sir
+Steuart Bayley. At Samagudting I had a perfect ovation, all the village
+turning out to see me, and greeting me warmly as an old acquaintance.
+Alas! many were suffering from a disease we called Naga sores, and
+several had died. The once lovely place looked desolate and miserable,
+almost all the fine trees had been ruthlessly cut down by one of my
+successors, in a panic, lest they should afford cover for hostile
+Nagas. The place looked so sad that I could not bear to stay there as I
+had intended, and left again almost directly. We reached Golaghat on
+December 9th, and stayed with the Chief Commissioner and started again
+on the 12th, and rode fifty-five miles into Dimapur, but I was not at
+all well, indeed had been much the reverse for several days, bad food
+and hard work having upset me. We reached Suchema on the 14th.</p>
+<p>Overtures for submission were made by some of the hostile villages,
+but I said that an unconditional surrender of all fire-arms must
+precede any negotiations. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb178" href=
+"#pb178" name="pb178">178</a>]</span>Meanwhile, I grew daily worse, and
+the doctors told me that I must go to Manipur for change and quiet,
+which, as there was nothing to be done just then, I did, leaving
+Captain Williamson in charge of the Political Department.</p>
+<p>I reached Manipur on December 22nd, and a day or two&rsquo;s rest
+did me so much good that I left again on the 27th, and rode to
+Mythephum, sixty miles, but was taken ill on the road, and suffered
+most dreadful pain for the last twenty miles, arriving completely
+prostrated. The next day, being worse, I sent a message to Manipur,
+asking for the native doctor and a litter to be sent to meet me, while
+I got back as far as Mayang Khang on my pony, though hardly able to sit
+upright. I halted here for the night, but had no sleep, and in the
+morning started in a rough litter, but the shaking increased the pain,
+so that I again tried riding till I reached Kong-nang-pokhee, twenty
+miles from Manipur, where, to my intense relief, I found my doolai and
+our native doctor, Lachman Parshad. I reached Manipur at 11
+<span class="sc">P.M.</span></p>
+<p>Next day, December 30th, I was no better, and as the doctor was very
+anxious, not understanding my case, which was acute inflammation, my
+wife wrote to Dr. O&rsquo;Brien of the 44th, asking him to come and see
+me. I was laid up till January 17th, and only narrowly escaped with
+life, my suffering being aggravated by a deficiency of medicine in our
+hospital, and a week&rsquo;s delay in getting it from Cachar. One day I
+got out of bed to see Thangal Major on very important business
+connected with Konoma, of which some of the inhabitants had tried
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb179" href="#pb179" name=
+"pb179">179</a>]</span>to open an intrigue with Manipur. Dr.
+O&rsquo;Brien arrived about the 13th, and left on the 18th, and I was
+preparing to follow in a few days, when complications on the Lushai
+frontier detained me, and then as the Chief Commissioner was about to
+come up <i>en route</i> to the Naga Hills, to present the Maharajah
+with the order of the Star of India in recognition of his services, I
+waited till I could march up with him.</p>
+<p>On January 30th, I heard that the Baladhun tea factory in Cachar had
+been attacked, and a European and several coolies killed by the Merema
+clan of Konoma. Knowing that Cachar was badly off for troops, I asked
+the Durbar to send two hundred men to the frontier, close to the tea
+factory, to aid the Cachar authorities, and this was done. On February
+6th, I started for Cachar to meet the Chief Commissioner, reaching that
+place on the 7th, and marched back with him, arriving at Manipur on
+February 20th, where he was received with every demonstration of
+respect, the Maharajah turning out with all his court to meet him at
+the usual place, and escorting him to the spot where the road turned
+off to the Residency.</p>
+<p>The Chief Commissioner&rsquo;s visit gave the greatest satisfaction
+to every one in Manipur. He stayed five days, during which he had
+several interviews with the Maharajah, and held a grand Durbar, at
+which he invested him with the star and badge of a K.C.S.I. He also
+attended a review held by the Rajah, besides seeing all the sights of
+the place, including a game of polo by picked players. In fact the
+visit was a thorough success, and the Manipuris often spoke of it with
+pleasure years afterwards. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb180" href=
+"#pb180" name="pb180">180</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Just before we started for the Naga Hills, I received the news of an
+attack by the Chussad Kukis on the Tankhool village of Chingsow, to the
+north-east of Manipur, forty-five people were said to have been killed
+or carried off; and the excitement was all the greater from the belief
+entertained that the attack had been instigated by the Burmese. I
+determined, after consultation with Sir Steuart Bayley, to proceed to
+the spot myself, and investigate the whole affair; and it was,
+therefore, decided that, after escorting him to Kohima, I should return
+to Manipur and take up the case. We marched to Kohima, which we reached
+on March 1st, and on the 2nd, I returned to Mao, <i>en route</i> to
+Manipur, where I arrived on March 5th.</p>
+<p>Before leaving the subject of the <span class="corr" id="xd20e2273"
+title="Source: Nago">Naga</span> Hills, I ought to say, that, it is
+difficult to over-estimate our obligation to the Maharajah, for his
+loyal conduct during the insurrection and subsequent troubles.
+According to his own belief, we had deprived him of territory belonging
+to him, and which he had been allowed to claim as his own. The Nagas
+asked him to help them, and promised to become his feudatories, if only
+he would not act against them. The temptation must have been strong, to
+at least serve us as we deserved, by leaving us in the lurch to get out
+of the mess, as best as we could. Instead of this, Chandra Kirtee Singh
+loyally and cheerfully placed his resources at our disposal, and
+certainly by enabling me to march to its relief, prevented the fall of
+Kohima, and the disastrous results which would have inevitably
+followed. It is grievous to think that his son, the then Jubraj Soor
+Chandra Singh, who served <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb181" href=
+"#pb181" name="pb181">181</a>]</span>us so well, was allowed to die in
+exile, and that Thangal Major died on the scaffold: while many others
+who accompanied the expedition, were transported as criminals, across
+the dreaded &ldquo;black water&rdquo; to the Andamans.</p>
+<p>It was the misfortune of those engaged in the Naga Hills expedition,
+that they were overshadowed, and their gallant deeds almost ignored, by
+the Afghan war then in progress. Some of the English papers imagined
+that the operations in the Naga Hills were included in it, and the
+Government of India, which has only eyes for the North-West Frontier,
+showed little desire to recognise the hard work, and good service
+rendered on its eastern border, amidst difficulties far greater than
+those which beset our troops in Afghanistan. The force engaged, hoped
+that the capture of Konoma, which was achieved after such hard fighting
+and at so great a loss, would have been at least recognised by some
+special decoration, but this hope was disappointed, apparently for no
+other reason, than that the troops engaged, fought in the east, and not
+in the west of India. Kaye, the historian, once said that, &ldquo;the
+countries to the east of the Bay of Bengal, were the grave of
+fame.&rdquo; Well did the Naga Hills campaign, prove the truth of his
+words. A bronze star was the reward of a bloodless march from Kabul to
+Kandahar, but not even a clasp could be spared to commemorate the
+capture of Konoma, and those who never saw a shot fired, shared the
+medal awarded equally with those who fought and bled in that bloody
+fight. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb182" href="#pb182" name=
+"pb182">182</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch20" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XX.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad
+outrage&mdash;Interesting country&mdash;Rhododendrons&mdash;Splendid
+forest&mdash;Chingsow and the murder&mdash;Chattik&mdash;March back
+across the hills.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">I had not fully recovered my strength after my
+illness, and besides there was much to do, so I did not start for
+Chingsow till the 11th, when I marched to Lairen, twenty-five miles
+distant. Near a place called Susa Kameng, where the hills approach each
+other very closely, from either side of the valley, a rampart connects
+them. It was built in former days as a barrier against the Tankhools,
+when they were the scourge of the neighbourhood.</p>
+<p>After leaving Susa Kameng, the valley narrowed for some miles, and
+then we crossed a ridge about 1000 feet above it, and finally descended
+into a charming little upland valley, which, but for the Kukis, those
+terrible enemies of trees and animal life, would be the cherished home
+of wild elephants. After crossing this, we again made a slight descent,
+and found ourselves close to the camp on a lovely stream. There I found
+Bularam Singh, who was to be minister in attendance on me during my
+march, that part of the country being under his jurisdiction. The next
+day we went on to Noong-suong-kong <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb183"
+href="#pb183" name="pb183">183</a>]</span>over a most lovely country,
+often 5000 feet above the sea, and with hill villages in the most
+romantic situation; and&mdash;remarkable sign of the peace produced by
+the rule of Manipur&mdash;we met large numbers of unarmed wayfarers.
+This day we also saw terrace cultivation, in which the Tankhools excel,
+and rhododendrons in full flower, a splendid sight. The next day, after
+another most interesting march, we halted in a pretty upland valley,
+5100 feet above the sea; the valley was long, and a stream meandered
+through it, the banks being clothed with willows and wild pear trees,
+covered with blossoms. The hillsides were well-wooded, the trees being
+chiefly pines with rhododendrons here and there.</p>
+<p>On March 14th, we descended the Kongou-Chow-Ching, and in a village
+I saw for the first time shingle roofs. We passed the last fir tree at
+5800 feet, and reached the watershed at 7300 feet. At the top of the
+pass in a slightly sheltered position, was a solitary rhododendron. The
+cold was so great that, though walking, I was glad to put on a thick
+great-coat; the winds were exceedingly piercing. Some of the hills
+round were denuded of trees, and the hill people said that it was the
+severity of the winds that prevented their growth. The view from the
+highest point was splendid, on all sides a magnificent array of hills
+and valleys. Near to us were some of the most luxuriant forests I have
+ever seen, the trees of large size, and many of them with gnarled
+trunks, recalling the giants of an English park. Under some of these
+trees was a greensward where it would have been delightful to encamp,
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb184" href="#pb184" name=
+"pb184">184</a>]</span>had time allowed, but the difficulty of
+obtaining water limits one&rsquo;s halting place in the hills.
+Everywhere on the western face of the hills pines seemed to stop at
+5800 feet; but on the east they rose to 9400!</p>
+<p>Four villages, in the Tankhool country, apparently monopolised the
+bulk of the cloth manufactures, and different tribal patterns were made
+to suit the purchaser. Some of these cloths are very handsome and
+strong, and calculated to wear for a long time. But the superior energy
+of the Manipuris in cloth weaving, has greatly injured the trade in the
+hill villages; in the same way that Manchester and Paisley have injured
+the weaving trade in most of India. The Manipuris supply a fair pattern
+of the different tribal cloths at a lower price, and thus manage to
+undersell those of native manufacture, but the quality is not nearly so
+good as in the original. The prices in the hills are decidedly high.
+Every village has its blacksmith, but some devote themselves more
+especially to ironwork.</p>
+<p>We reached Chingsow on March 15th, after a march of twelve miles
+that morning, chiefly made up of ascents and descents, some being so
+steep that it was with difficulty that we got along. Finally, after a
+direct ascent of 4980 feet, followed by a descent of 3600 feet, we
+reached our encamping ground below the village which towered above us.
+The next day I investigated the case, and found that, as reported,
+twenty males and twenty-five females had been murdered. I saw the fresh
+graves and dug up one as evidence, the bodies contained in it were
+those of a mother and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb185" href=
+"#pb185" name="pb185">185</a>]</span>child, and presented a frightful
+spectacle with half of the heads cut off, including the scalp, and both
+in an advanced state of decomposition. It appeared that a demand has
+been made by Tonghoo, the Chussad Chief, that the Chingsow Nagas should
+submit to him and pay tribute, but they, of course, refused as subjects
+of Manipur. They heard of nothing more till they were attacked on the
+morning of the fatal day. The people had just begun to stir, and some
+had lighted their fires, when suddenly they heard the fire of musketry
+at the entrance of the village. They ran out of their houses, and the
+Chussads fell upon them, and the massacre commenced. The assailants
+were about fifty in number, and the people in their terror were driven
+in all directions, and slaughtered, some being shot and others being
+cut down by daos.</p>
+<p>While this was going on, some of the men assembled with spears and
+advanced on the Chussads, who then retreated firing the village, and
+carrying off all the pigs, spears and iron hoes they could lay hands
+on. Five Nagas of Chattik came with the Chussads and were recognised.
+The village of Chingsow was most strongly situated, even more so than
+Konoma, indeed, the same might be said of many villages in that part of
+the country, and is entered by long winding paths cut through the rock,
+by which only one man at a time could pass, so that well defended it
+would be difficult to take. But the fact was that Manipur having put a
+stop to blood feuds among its subjects, had rather placed them at a
+disadvantage, as they were not quite as well prepared for an attack as
+formerly. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb186" href="#pb186" name=
+"pb186">186</a>]</span></p>
+<p>After leaving Chingsow, we marched through a pretty country, part of
+our way lying along a high ridge with a precipice on one side, and a
+deep ravine on the other, and we finally halted in a stream far below
+our last camp. Every march was a succession of steep ascents and then
+equally steep descents into narrow valleys. It was most exasperating
+sometimes to see how needlessly an ascent was made over a high ridge,
+when a path of no greater length could have been made round it.</p>
+<p>On the 17th, I encamped beside a river where I was visited by many
+Tankhools, including children, who crowded round me fearlessly. The
+people were a fine race, but almost inconceivably dirty, some of them
+seemed grimed with the dirt of years. There were plenty of fine pieces
+of terrace cultivation. It was very curious to find that among the
+Tankhools there seemed to be a universal belief that they originally
+sprung from the &ldquo;Mahawullee,&rdquo; or sacred grove in
+Manipur.</p>
+<p>On March 18th, we reached Chattik, a fine village on a ridge from
+which we had a splendid view, including the Chussad villages. As I had
+done all I had come for, and wished to see a new country, I determined
+to march back straight to Manipur across the hills. It was not the
+beaten track which lay by Kongal Tannah, and no one in my camp knew it,
+but I felt sure it could be found, and old Bularam Singh cheerfully
+agreed. We started on the 19th, and after passing a village that had
+been plundered by the Chussads, we halted after a sixteen-mile march,
+during which I was badly hurt by a bamboo which <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb187" href="#pb187" name=
+"pb187">187</a>]</span>pierced my leg. On the march we passed some
+terrible-looking pits, 12 feet deep, and about 3 or 3&frac12; feet wide
+with sharp stakes at the bottom. They are meant to catch enemies on the
+war path, or deer, and are placed in the centre of the roads and
+covered lightly. God help the poor man or animal who is impaled in
+these horrible pits and dies in agony, for no one else will.</p>
+<p>On the 20th, we halted at Pong, after an interesting but tiring
+march, during which we crossed the summit of a high range at 7100 feet,
+covered with forest, and small and very solid bamboos. The descent was
+through a noble pine forest with trees that must have been two hundred
+feet high. It rained heavily, and when we halted I should have had a
+miserable night of it but for the care of the Manipuris, who built me a
+comfortable hut, and went away smiling and cheerful to cook their food,
+though they looked half drowned. Never did I see men work better under
+difficulties. Owing to them I had as nice a resting-place as a man on
+the march could want, and an hour after I had an excellent dinner.</p>
+<p>We started early next morning, and made a gradual ascent till we
+reached Hoondoong, a Tankhool village 5200 feet above the sea. After
+that our road lay through a splendid fir forest, with here and there an
+avenue of oaks, but from time to time we came across large tracts of
+forest that had been laid low and burned. At Hoondoong I saw some
+curious graves, high mounds shaped like a large <b>H</b>.</p>
+<p>They were outside the village. There were also <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb188" href="#pb188" name="pb188">188</a>]</span>more
+and better-looking women and children than are to be seen in most
+Tankhool villages. The men of the Tankhool race are, in physique, quite
+equal to the Angamis.</p>
+<p>In the main street of Hoondoong, there were two rows of dead trees
+about twenty feet high, planted in front of the houses, and orchids
+were growing on them. The people seemed happy and contented under the
+rule of Manipur, and their houses were large and commodious
+structures.</p>
+<p>We reached Eethum Tannah in the valley of Manipur after a terrible
+descent, rendered all the more difficult by heavy rain, which made the
+narrow path so slippery as to be almost impassable. During the whole of
+my long march through a wild country covered with forest I had, with
+the exception of the Hoolook monkey (<i>Hylohete</i>) seen no wild
+animals, scarcely a bird!</p>
+<p>I reached Manipur on March 22nd, having greatly enjoyed my tour in
+the hills, and had hardly arrived when <span class="corr" id=
+"xd20e2335" title="Source: Thangel">Thangal</span> Major came to see me
+and talk about the Chussad business. Soon after I sent to Tonghoo, the
+Chussad chief, to demand his submission. He did not come himself, but
+sent his brother Yankapo. The Manipuris thought this a grand
+opportunity to secure hostages, and begged me to allow the arrest of
+him and his followers. I severely rebuked them for making such a
+treacherous proposal.</p>
+<p>I had several interviews with the young chief and his followers who
+spoke Manipuri fluently, and admitted that they were subjects of the
+Maharajah. This visit eventually led to a better understanding
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb189" href="#pb189" name=
+"pb189">189</a>]</span>with the Chussads, and to the submission of
+Tonghoo himself, who subsequently became a peaceable subject. For the
+present, however, I had to exact reparation for the attack on Chingsow,
+and for some months the affair cost me much anxiety. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb190" href="#pb190" name="pb190">190</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch21" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XXI.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Saving a criminal from execution&mdash;Konoma men
+visit me&mdash;A terrible earthquake&mdash;Destruction wrought in the
+capital&mdash;Illness of the Maharajah&mdash;Question as to the
+succession&mdash;Arrival of the Queen&rsquo;s warrant&mdash;Reception
+by Maharajah&mdash;The Burmese question.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">About this time I heard one morning that a man had
+been convicted in concert with a woman of committing a grave offence,
+and that the woman had, according to custom, been sentenced to be
+exposed in every bazaar in the country, in the way already described.
+The man had been sentenced to death, and ordered to Shoogoonoo for
+execution. As the offence was not one which our courts would punish
+with death, I sent a friendly remonstrance to the Maharajah, and
+requested that he might be produced before me, that I might satisfy
+myself that he was uninjured. The Maharajah at once consented, and in a
+few days the man was brought before me safe and sound, and after having
+been exposed as a criminal in several bazaars, he was sentenced with my
+approval to a fitting term of imprisonment. I also asked the minister
+in future, to let me know for certain when a sentence of death was
+passed, that I might advise them, without appearing to the outer world
+to interfere, in case they inadvertently condemned a man to capital
+punishment, for a crime <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb191" href=
+"#pb191" name="pb191">191</a>]</span>which our laws would not approve
+of being visited so severely. Realising that my object was to save them
+from discredit, they at once consented, and I hinted that I would never
+sanction the penalty of death for cow-killing.</p>
+<p>As I have stated, it had been almost always the custom to refer
+death sentences to me. Often and often when I made a remonstrance to
+the ministers about any contemplated action of which I disapproved, I
+was told that I misapprehended the state of things, and that nothing of
+the kind was intended. Of course, I let them down easily, and appeared
+satisfied with their assurances. However, neither party was deceived,
+they accepted my strong hint in a friendly spirit, and knew well that I
+took their denial as a mere matter of form. The result was what I cared
+for, and it was generally achieved without friction.</p>
+<p>One of the most unpleasant parts of my duty was the perpetual
+necessity of saying &ldquo;No&rdquo; to the ministers. My great object
+was to be continually building up our prestige. Colonel McCulloch had
+said to me, &ldquo;Never make any concession to the Manipuris without
+an equivalent,&rdquo; and it is inconceivable how many times in our
+daily intercourse I had to refuse little apparently insignificant, but
+really insidious requests. The struggle on behalf of native British
+subjects was long kept up, but in the end I gained my point, and their
+rights and privileges were fully recognised.</p>
+<p>Early in June, some men of the Merema clan of Konoma who were
+fugitives in a very wild part of the hills of Manipur bordering on the
+Naga Hills, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb192" href="#pb192" name=
+"pb192">192</a>]</span>came to me, making a piteous appeal for mercy,
+saying they would have nothing to do with the Naga Hills officials, but
+came to me as their old friend and master in the days when I was at
+Samagudting. As they came in trusting to my honour, I would not have
+them arrested, but sent them away, telling them that nothing but good
+and loyal conduct on their part could win my esteem, and that they must
+make their submission and deliver up Mr. Damant&rsquo;s murderers to
+the Political Officer in the Naga Hills, before I consented to deal
+with them. I also gave orders to the Manipuri troops on the frontier,
+to act with the utmost vigour against all Konoma men found within the
+territory of Manipur.</p>
+<p>Soon after some Lushais visited me, and we settled up a
+long-standing dispute between them and Manipur.</p>
+<p>The Konoma men continued to give much trouble, and to keep some
+check on them, I refused at last to allow any to enter Manipur, except
+by the Mao Tannah, and furnished with a pass from the Political
+Officer, Colonel Michell. I also arrested one of the supposed
+murderers, but the evidence against him was not considered quite
+satisfactory.</p>
+<p>On the morning of June 30th, at 4.45, when we were at Kang-joop-kool
+there was a violent earthquake, the oscillations continuing with great
+force from north to south, and <i>apparently</i> in a less degree from
+east to west for some minutes. Plaster was shaken from the walls, and
+crockery and bottles thrown down, and furniture upset. Locked doors
+were flung open and the whole house, built of wood and bamboo, shaken
+as by a giant hand. Two Naga <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb193" href=
+"#pb193" name="pb193">193</a>]</span>girls sleeping in my
+children&rsquo;s room next to the one my wife and I occupied, sprang up
+and ran outside, my two boys, not realising what was up, seemed to
+think it a good joke. We all got up and hurried on our things to be
+ready for an emergency, but I soon saw that all present danger was
+over. At 8.50 <span class="sc">A.M.</span>, there was another sharp
+shock, and again about 2 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, besides several
+slighter ones.</p>
+<p>In the valley, and especially at the capital, the shocks were of the
+utmost violence and the earthquake said to be the worst known with the
+exception of the terrible one of January 1869. Many houses built of
+wood and bamboo were levelled with the ground, the ruins at Langthabal
+greatly injured, and a peepul tree growing over a picturesque old
+temple torn off. The old Residency was greatly injured, part being
+thrown down, and the fireplace and chimney shaken into fragments, but
+still, strange to say, standing. Some houses in the Residency compound
+were rendered useless. The great brick bridge on the Cachar road was
+cracked and much damage done. The earth opened in several places. The
+new Residency, which was nearly finished, and was built in the old
+English half-timbered style, was intact.</p>
+<p>During the next few days several more shocks occurred, causing much
+alarm among the people, who predicted something still worse. The
+earthquake was followed by the severest outbreak of cholera that I had
+witnessed since a dreadful epidemic in Assam in 1860. There were many
+deaths in the palace, and public business was at a standstill. I was
+unable to lay any question before the Durbar, as half <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb194" href="#pb194" name="pb194">194</a>]</span>the
+officials were performing the funeral ceremonies of relations. The
+great bazaar was closed at sunset, and even then many of the sellers
+went home to find their children dead or dying. Everywhere on the banks
+of the rivers, and streams, people might be seen performing the funeral
+obsequies of relations and lamenting the dead. Amid this trouble, the
+attitude of all classes was such as to excite admiration, there were no
+cases of sick being deserted and every one appeared calm and
+collected.</p>
+<p>Later on, the cholera attacked my village of Kang-joop-kool, and ten
+per cent. of the population died.</p>
+<p>Early in the autumn, the Maharajah was taken ill with an abscess
+behind the ear, and great apprehensions were entertained for his life.
+The whole capital was for weeks in a state of alarm, fearing a struggle
+for the throne in case of his death. The four eldest sons, and also
+some members of the family of the late Rajah Nur Singh, had their
+followers armed so as to be ready to assert their several claims
+immediately the Maharajah died, the former were constantly in
+attendance on their father night and day. The Maharajah was himself
+very anxious about the conduct of his younger sons. As suffocation
+might any moment have terminated the invalid&rsquo;s life, I made all
+necessary plans, with a view to acting promptly, if required, and, in
+conjunction with Thangal Major, arranged so as to secure the guns and
+bring them over to the Residency the moment that he died. I also
+desired the Jubraj (heir apparent) to come over to me at once, in the
+event of the death of his father, that I might instantly proclaim him
+and give him my support. I had a most <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb195" href="#pb195" name="pb195">195</a>]</span>grateful message from
+the Maharajah in reply, as also from the Jubraj, who promised to abide
+entirely by my instructions. However, the abscess burst, and the
+Maharajah recovered, and though a shot imprudently fired one evening
+led to a panic when the bazaar was deserted, things soon settled down
+again.</p>
+<p>As soon as the Maharajah was again able to transact business, he
+begged me to write to the Government of India and request that the
+Jubraj should be acknowledged by them as his successor. I did so, at
+the same time strongly urging that the guarantee should be extended to
+the Jubraj&rsquo;s children, so as to preclude the possibility of a
+disputed succession on his death. The Jubraj earnestly supported this
+request, but the Maharajah preferred adhering to the old Manipuri
+custom, which really seemed made to encourage strife. If, for instance,
+a man had ten sons, they all succeeded one after the other, passing
+over the children of the elder ones, but when the last one died, then
+his children succeeded as children of the last Rajah, to the exclusion
+of all the elder brothers&rsquo; children. All the same, if these could
+make good their claim by force of arms, they were cheerfully accepted
+by the people who were ready to take any scion of Royalty.</p>
+<p>The consequence had always been in former days that to prevent
+troublesome claims, a man, on ascending the throne, immediately made
+every effort to murder all possible competitors. It is obvious that
+such a cumbersome system was undesirable, and I held that having once
+interfered we ought to set things on a proper and sensible basis, and
+that there <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb196" href="#pb196" name=
+"pb196">196</a>]</span>was no middle course between this and leaving
+the people to themselves. Thangal Major, who always greatly dreaded the
+violent and unscrupulous disposition of Kotwal Koireng (afterwards
+<span class="corr" id="xd20e2397" title=
+"Source: Senapattee">Senaputtee</span>), agreed with me. The Maharajah,
+however, with a father&rsquo;s tenderness for his sons, would not
+advocate my proposal, but still, would have gladly accepted it. The
+Government of India judged differently, and only sanctioned my proposal
+so far as to allow me to say that they would guarantee the
+Jubraj&rsquo;s succession, and maintain him on his throne. This
+decision gave great satisfaction.</p>
+<p>This year was unpleasantly distinguished by a great deficiency of
+rain in the valley, and a corresponding superfluity, though at
+irregular intervals, in the hills. For a long time there were
+apprehensions of scarcity, while in the hills the rainfall was so heavy
+that the Laimetak bridge was washed away and the river rose six feet
+above its banks. On one side, a large portion of its pebbly bed was
+hollowed out, and much widened, and 80 feet width of solid boulders
+carried away. The Eerung rose about 40 feet, and portions of the hill
+road were cut away, but the want of steady rain was felt.</p>
+<p>By the end of September, the Maharajah was able to transact
+business, though, as he was not well enough to visit me, I visited him,
+that I might congratulate him on his recovery, and present him with Her
+Majesty&rsquo;s warrant, appointing him a Knight Commander of the Star
+of India. The papers bearing the Queen&rsquo;s signature were received
+with a salute of thirty-one guns, and the Maharajah rose to take it
+from my hand, and at once placed it <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb197" href="#pb197" name="pb197">197</a>]</span>on his forehead,
+making an obeisance. I then made a speech to all assembled, expressing
+my satisfaction at the Maharajah&rsquo;s recovery, and the
+gratification it gave me to be the means of conveying the warrant to
+him.</p>
+<p>Nothing of great importance now occurred, but I was constantly
+occupied by the troubled state of the eastern frontier of Manipur where
+Sumjok (Thoungdoot) continued to intrigue with the Chussad and
+Choomyang Kukis, who were a ceaseless trouble to the Tankhool Nagas,
+about Chattik. These intrigues were conducted with a view to gaining
+over the latter as subjects. The chief difficulty of Manipur was, that
+the boundary had never been properly defined, so neither party had a
+good case against the other. Manipur was in possession, but otherwise
+everything was unsatisfactory, our failure to settle the Kongal case
+having encouraged the Burmese authorities to resistance. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb198" href="#pb198" name="pb198">198</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch22" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XXII.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">March to Mao and improvement of the
+road&mdash;Lieutenant Raban&mdash;Constant troubles with
+Burmah&mdash;Visit to Mr. Elliott at Kohima&mdash;A tiger hunt made
+easy&mdash;A perilous adventure&mdash;Rose bushes&mdash;Brutal conduct
+of Prince Koireng&mdash;We leave Manipur for England.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">In November, I marched to Mao on the Naga Hills
+frontier, and arranged for the improvement of some of the halting
+places on the way. I also asked Sir Steuart Bayley, the Chief
+Commissioner, to allow Lieutenant Raban, R.E., to visit Manipur, with a
+view to laying out the line of a cart road from the Manipur valley to
+Mao. This arrangement he sanctioned, and Lieutenant Raban arrived in
+Manipur on December 30th, 1880. The line from Sengmai was bad
+throughout, and an exceedingly difficult one in many places. Thangal
+Major accompanied us, and I had induced the Maharajah to open out a
+narrow road, on being supplied with the necessary tools. We carefully
+examined the whole of the road in detail, and, after deciding on the
+line to adopt, cut the trace. It was a matter requiring great skill and
+patience, both of which Lieutenant Raban had. He was very ably seconded
+by the Manipuris, whose keen intelligence made them good auxiliaries.
+Often the line had to be cut along the face of a cliff, but fortunately
+the rock was soft, and the work was accomplished without accident. The
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb199" href="#pb199" name=
+"pb199">199</a>]</span>way we turned the head of the Mao river, the
+descent to and ascent from which I had so often, so painfully
+accomplished, was a great success, and did not materially increase the
+distance, as we saved it by striking the main path at different
+points.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2419src" href="#xd20e2419" name=
+"xd20e2419src">1</a></p>
+<p>In the village of Mukhel near which we passed, we saw a pear tree
+three or four hundred years old, and greatly venerated by the
+villagers. In the same village I saw a Naga cut another man&rsquo;s
+hair with a dao (sword). The operation was performed most dexterously
+and neatly, by holding the dao under the hair, and then slightly
+tapping the latter with a small piece of wood. The result was that the
+hair-cutting was as neatly accomplished as it could have been by the
+best London hair-dresser. I asked a fine young Naga why all his tribe
+wore a single long tuft of hair at the back? He at once replied,
+&ldquo;To make the girls admire me,&rdquo; and added that without it,
+he should be laughed at. This is the only explanation I ever had of the
+curious fact that most of the Naga tribes wear a long tuft behind, like
+Hindoos. By the third week in January we had laid out the line of road.
+Thangal Major approved of most of it, but said, regarding the piece
+between Sengmai and Kaithemahee, &ldquo;I will cut it as I promised,
+but who will ever use it?&rdquo; I differed from him, as nothing could
+exceed the tortuous and hilly nature of the old road, running as it did
+across one succession of spurs and deep ravines, one of the most
+heart-breaking paths I ever went along. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb200" href="#pb200" name="pb200">200</a>]</span>Within a month of its
+completion the old path was entirely deserted.</p>
+<p>My health was beginning to break down entirely. I had been very ill
+during and immediately after the Naga Hills Expedition, and during the
+last march I was laid up one or two days. My wife had long been a
+sufferer, but she did not like to leave me, and I did not like to leave
+Manipur while the frontier was disturbed and the Kongal case unsettled.
+However, now I felt that we both must have change, and our children
+also were of an age to go home.</p>
+<p>On my return from looking after the road, fresh complications
+awaited me. News came from Chattik of the Sumjok (Thoungdoot)
+authorities having again caused dissension and joined with another
+village in firing on a Manipuri piquet. This had led to reprisals on
+the part of the Manipuris, who attacked and drove out the enemy. All
+this was done without our relations with Sumjok being anything but
+strained, the act of hostility being unauthorised. The ill-defined
+nature of the frontier was such, that neither party could be said to be
+in the right or wrong. The Kuki, Chussad, and other frontier villages
+took advantage of the state of things to plunder the Tankhools, and the
+latter in their turn appealed to Manipur.</p>
+<p>I felt that, until something was done to set things on a right
+footing, I could not leave. Sir Steuart Bayley was about this time
+appointed to Hyderabad, which added to my difficulties, as he was
+intimately acquainted with the situation, and of course a change in the
+administration necessarily means delay. The Burmese authorities,
+knowing what I now do, were <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb201" href=
+"#pb201" name="pb201">201</a>]</span>always, as I then believed,
+favourably inclined to us; the ill-feeling was entirely on the part of
+Sumjok, whose Tsawbwa had influence at Mandalay, and was able to
+prevent justice being done in the case in which he was so discreditably
+concerned. He also took advantage of this influence to carry on the
+guerilla warfare he did through the Chussads, who disliked Manipur, on
+account of some treacherous behaviour on her part in former years.</p>
+<p>As the spring advanced, of course the danger of hostilities became
+less. C&aelig;sar said, &rdquo;<i lang="la">Omnia bella hieme
+requiescunt</i>.&rdquo; The reverse holds good in India, and on the
+eastern frontier the fiercest tribes keep quiet in the rainy
+season.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2441src" href="#xd20e2441" name=
+"xd20e2441src">2</a></p>
+<p>In March, I heard that Mr. (now Sir Charles) Elliott, the new Chief
+Commissioner, was about to visit Kohima, where he wished to meet me,
+and I set off on my way there, arriving on the 19th, being well
+received all along the road by the people of the different villages. I
+had a long talk with the Chief Commissioner about the affairs of
+Manipur, and the necessity for a survey and delimitation of the
+boundary between it and Burmah during the ensuing cold weather, and
+then returned. The new road had been opened out to such a width, except
+here and there&mdash;I was able to ride the whole distance.</p>
+<p>The weather was lovely, and the rhododendrons near Mao, and the wild
+pears, azaleas, and many other flowering trees along my route, made the
+long journey a most pleasant one. Let me say here, while on the subject
+of the road, that, notwithstanding all the criticisms passed on it and
+predictions of its <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb202" href="#pb202"
+name="pb202">202</a>]</span>uselessness, it proved of immense, nay,
+incalculable value during the Burmese War of 1885&ndash;86, and the sad
+troubles of 1891. It was throughout of an easy gradient, never
+exceeding one in twenty, and, had a bullock train been established,
+might have been used from an early date for conveying produce from
+Manipur to the stations of Kohima.</p>
+<p>This was my last visit to Kohima, a place fraught with so deep an
+interest to me, and so many pleasant and painful associations. I shall
+always regret that the site chosen by myself and Major Williamson was
+not adopted for the new cantonment, which, with the larger space
+available, would have admitted of a greater development than is
+possible under present circumstances. Still the place will always
+possess an undying interest for me, filled as it is with the memory of
+events bearing on my work from the early triumphs of old Ghumbeer
+Singh, and my predecessor, Lieut. Gordon, to the day when I marched in
+at the head of the relieving party, and heard the fair-haired English
+child told by her mother that at last she could have water to
+drink!</p>
+<p>On my return to Manipur, I intended to have started for England, and
+our passages were taken by a steamer leaving in April. But the
+unsettled state of the Burmese frontier forced me to stay till the
+rains had set in in the hills. During this spring we had a visitor, Mr.
+Hume, C.B., the well-known ornithologist, who spent three months in
+studying the birds of Manipur, with the result, I believe, that very
+few new species were found.</p>
+<p>In April, we had a little excitement to vary the monotony of life,
+though to me my work was of such <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb203"
+href="#pb203" name="pb203">203</a>]</span>never-ending interest, that I
+needed nothing of the kind. On April 13th, the Maharajah sent to tell
+me that a tiger had been surrounded, and asked me to go out and help to
+shoot it. The place was about fourteen miles from the capital, and we
+started early and rode off to a spot a few miles from Thobal.</p>
+<p>I took my sister and the two boys with me, my wife staying with the
+baby. The tiger had, according to Manipuri custom, been first enclosed
+by a long net, about eight feet high, and outside this a bamboo
+palisading had been erected, on which the platforms were built for the
+spectators. The space enclosed was eighty to a hundred yards in
+diameter, and contained grass and scrub jungle, and a log of wood tied
+to strong ropes was arranged, so that it might be dragged up and down
+to drive the tiger out of the covert. As soon as we were all in our
+places this rope was vigorously pulled, with the result that a tigress,
+followed by two cubs, sprang out with a loud roar. The Jubraj was
+present, and took command of the proceedings, courteously asking me
+from time to time what I wished done. After the first charge, the tiger
+was not very lively, and this being the case, several Manipuris,
+contrary to orders, jumped down into the arena with long and heavy
+spears in the right hand, and a small forked stick in the left. With
+the latter they held up a portion of the net, which had been allowed to
+fall on the ground to shield their faces, if necessary, and with the
+right hand poised the spear, shouting to irritate the tiger, whom
+others in the stockade tried to drive out by throwing stones.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb204" href="#pb204" name=
+"pb204">204</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Roused by this, the infuriated brute charged in earnest at one of
+the men on foot, the latter awaited her with the utmost coolness, and,
+as she approached, struck her with the spear; the tiger, however, made
+good her charge, but the net stopped her, and she rolled over, and when
+released, she retreated. This was repeated, both by the tigress and the
+cubs, and after a shot or two, the men on foot attacked them with
+spears and finished them off.</p>
+<p>The whole scene was a very exciting one and a very fine display of
+courage and coolness on the part of the Manipuris.</p>
+<p>We did not reach home till 10 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, but the
+weather was splendid, not unbearably hot as it would have been in India
+so late in the season. The day was a memorable one to the boys, and I
+well remember the astonishment they caused when, stopping at Shillong
+on their way home, some one jokingly said, &ldquo;And how many tigers
+have you shot?&rdquo; The boys gravely replied &ldquo;Three.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The day was very nearly proving the last to some of us. The two boys
+were being carried in a litter, and my sister and I riding on ponies.
+On leaving the village where we had halted, we were riding down a
+narrow path with only room for one to pass at a time, when, suddenly, I
+heard a shout behind me and saw an elephant following me at a great
+pace, the mahout (driver) vainly endeavoured to stop him, he had been
+frightened by the tiger&rsquo;s dead body and was quite unmanageable. I
+called to my sister, who was in front, to ride at full speed, and I
+followed as quickly as her pony would allow. It was a race for life,
+as, had the elephant gained on us, I, at least, must <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb205" href="#pb205" name="pb205">205</a>]</span>have
+been crushed. Luckily, the mahout recovered his control, and managed to
+slacken the pace.</p>
+<p>On our way home, we passed bushes of wild roses twenty feet in
+diameter and quite impenetrable.</p>
+<p>Finally, the tiger was taken to the Maharajah, who had not been well
+enough to come, and, next morning, was brought to us and skinned.</p>
+<p>I have already alluded to the turbulent character of Kotwal Koireng,
+the Maharajah&rsquo;s fourth son, and now, again, I was to have fresh
+evidence of it. Early in May, I heard of his having three men so
+severely beaten that one had died, and two were dangerously ill. On
+investigation, I found that the men had been tied up and beaten on the
+back, it was said, for two hours and slapped on the face at the same
+time. I questioned the ministers, and practically there was no defence,
+and, as I heard that the Maharajah was enquiring into the matter, I
+said no more, beyond a warning that a case of murder must not be passed
+over.</p>
+<p>The Maharajah handed over the case to the Cherap Court<a class=
+"noteref" id="xd20e2483src" href="#xd20e2483" name="xd20e2483src">3</a>
+for trial, and, as might be expected, they acquitted Kotwal of the
+charge of causing death and found him guilty of injuring the other two.
+The Maharajah sentenced him to banishment for a year to the island of
+Thanga, in the Logtak Lake, and temporary degradation of caste. As a
+sentence of two years&rsquo; imprisonment had been passed some years
+previously in our own territory, for death caused under similar
+circumstances, the sentence was not so lenient as might have been
+expected. I reported the matter to the Government of India, expressing
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb206" href="#pb206" name=
+"pb206">206</a>]</span>my approval of the sentence, under the
+circumstances, and my verdict was ratified. I intimated to the Durbar
+that, should such a thing occur again, I should insist on his permanent
+banishment from Manipur.</p>
+<p>This I was prepared to carry out myself if necessary. I should have
+liked on this occasion to have procured his banishment, but, in dealing
+with Native States that in these matters are practically <span class=
+"corr" id="xd20e2491" title="Source: indepedent">independent</span>, it
+is not always well to press matters too far. In old days, under our
+early political agents, such an offence would have passed unnoticed. It
+was a point gained to have the case investigated and adjudicated on by
+the Maharajah, and anything approaching to an adequate sentence
+inflicted. Since the troubles in Manipur, I have seen it stated that
+the sentence was a nominal one; that it certainly was not, the prince
+was banished to Thanga, and if he surreptitiously appeared at the
+capital, he did not appear in public, and when I left Manipur on long
+leave, early in 1882, was still in banishment.</p>
+<p>On May 31st, we all left Manipur on our way to England, and my
+children bade adieu to a most happy home. It was a sad parting for most
+of us, and though my wife&rsquo;s health and mine urgently required
+change, we left the valley with regret, and felt deep sorrow as we took
+our last look of it from the adjacent range of hills. We reached Cachar
+on June 8th, having halted as much as possible on high ground. The
+rivers were in flood, and sometimes there was a little difficulty in
+crossing. We left for Shillong on June 9th, and arrived there on the
+15th, leaving again on the 21st for Bombay, from which, on July 5th, we
+sailed for England. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb207" href="#pb207"
+name="pb207">207</a>]</span></p>
+<p>While at Shillong we were the guests of the Chief Commissioner, so
+that I had an ample opportunity of talking over affairs with him, and
+it was finally settled that I was to take Shillong on my way back, and
+see Mr. Elliott before leaving, to settle the knotty question of the
+boundary between Manipur and Burmah on the spot, in accordance with
+orders lately received from the Government of India. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb208" href="#pb208" name="pb208">208</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2419" href="#xd20e2419src" name="xd20e2419">1</a></span> This was
+the road along which Colonel Johnstone had marched to relieve Kohima.
+The old route from the capital of Manipur to Cachar was easy enough in
+comparison.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2441" href="#xd20e2441src" name="xd20e2441">2</a></span> All wars
+rest in winter.</p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2483" href="#xd20e2483src" name="xd20e2483">3</a></span> Chief
+Court.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch23" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XXIII.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Return to Manipur&mdash;Revolution in my
+absence&mdash;Arrangements for boundary&mdash;Survey and
+settlement&mdash;Start for Kongal&mdash;Burmah will not act&mdash;We
+settle boundary&mdash;Report to Government&mdash;Return to England.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">I was really not fit to undertake any work in India
+till my health was re-established, but could not bear to leave the
+interests of Manipur in other hands until the boundary was settled. I
+felt that I alone had the threads of the whole affair in my hands, and
+that I could not honourably leave my post till I had seen Manipur out
+of the difficulty. Thus it came that I left England again on September
+7th, and my devoted wife, far less fit than I was for the trials of the
+long journey, accompanied me, as she would not leave me alone.</p>
+<p>We reached Shillong on October 18th, 1881, and, after arranging all
+matters connected with the boundary settlement with the Chief
+Commissioner, started for Cachar, and reached that place on October
+25th, leaving again for Manipur next day, and marching to Jeree
+Gh&acirc;t, where we were met by Thangal Major. We made the usual
+marches, and reached Manipur on November 4th, the Jubraj coming out
+with a large retinue to meet me at Phoiching, eight miles from the
+capital.</p>
+<p>While I was away in the month of June, an <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb209" href="#pb209" name=
+"pb209">209</a>]</span>attempt at a revolution had occurred, the
+standard of revolt having been raised by a man named Eerengha, an
+unknown individual, but claiming to be of Royal lineage; such
+revolutions were of common occurrence in former days. In Colonel
+McCulloch&rsquo;s time there were eighteen. In this case there was no
+result, except that Eerengha and seventeen followers were captured and
+executed. The treatment was undoubtedly severe, but not necessarily too
+much so, as too great leniency might have led to a repetition, and much
+consequent suffering and bloodshed.</p>
+<p>I had an interview with the Maharajah, who was ill when I arrived,
+as soon as he was well enough; and set to work to make preparations for
+our march to the Burmese frontier. I intimated my desire to the
+Maharajah that Bularam Singh, and not Thangal Major, should accompany
+me, as I wished the last to stay at the capital, and also not to let
+him appear to be absolutely indispensable.</p>
+<p>I had been appointed Commissioner for settling the boundary with
+plenipotentiary powers, and Mr. R. Phayre, C.S., who was in the Burmese
+commission, and a good Burmese scholar, was appointed as my assistant.
+There was also a survey party under my old friend Colonel Badgley, and
+Mr. Ogle, while Lieutenant (now Major, D.S.O.) Dun,<a class="noteref"
+id="xd20e2519src" href="#xd20e2519" name="xd20e2519src">1</a> came on
+behalf of the Intelligence Department. Mr. Oldham represented the
+Geological Survey. Dr. Watt was naturalist and medical officer, while
+Captain Angelo, with two hundred men of the 12th Khelat-i-Ghilzie
+Regiment, commanded my escort. Mr. Phayre arrived first, and I sent him
+off to Tamu to try and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb210" href=
+"#pb210" name="pb210">210</a>]</span>smooth over matters with the
+Burmese authorities there. Then my old friend Dun came, soon followed
+by Dr. Watt, then the survey party arrived, and Captain Angelo with my
+escort, and last of all Mr. Oldham. Never had Manipur seen so many
+European officers. Some time was required for necessary triangulations
+before we could start.</p>
+<p>On November 30th, just as the sun was rising, Thangal Major came to
+see me, and told me that the Maharajah was very ill and suffering great
+pain. While talking, two guns were fired from the palace, when the old
+man turned pale, evidently thinking that the Maharajah was dead. A few
+minutes after a messenger came to inform us that the guns merely
+announced a domestic event, but Thangal Major was nervous and soon took
+leave, running away to the palace at a pace that did credit to his
+sixty-four years.</p>
+<p>On December 1st, Mr. Phayre returned from Tamu, having had a
+friendly but unsatisfactory interview with the Phoongyee. The Pagan
+Woon had been expected but did not arrive, and the Phoongyee had no
+authority to act.</p>
+<p>Before starting, the Maharajah visited me in state, and I introduced
+all the officers of the party to him. He looked pale and haggard after
+his illness, but seemed in good spirits. At last, on December 16th, we
+made a move and marched to Thobal-Yaira-pok, and on the following day
+to Ingorok, at the foot of the hills. My wife accompanied us, as I was
+exceedingly anxious to show the Burmese my peaceful intentions, and
+felt sure that the presence of a lady would be a better proof of my
+<i>bona fides</i> than any <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb211" href=
+"#pb211" name="pb211">211</a>]</span>other I could offer. I heard
+before leaving the frontier, that had it not been for this, a rupture
+would have been certain while our relations were in a state of great
+tension, but the fact of my wife being there, convinced the authorities
+in the Kubo valley, that I had no idea of hostile action.</p>
+<p>I have already described the route to Kongal, and my escort were
+much tried by the severity of the marches over such a rough country.
+The men had only lately returned from Afghanistan, and were in fine
+condition, but they said that the country between Kandahar and Kabul,
+was nothing to that between Ingorok and Kongal Tannah. Every day many
+men were footsore, and reached camp, hours after me and my Manipuris.
+There can be no doubt that for some reason or other the Eastern hills
+and jungles are far more trying than those of the North-West
+frontier.</p>
+<p>However, at last we arrived safely at Kongal, and though the Burmese
+and Sumjok officials, to whom I had written polite letters asking them
+to meet me, did not turn up, the survey work went on merrily.</p>
+<p>On the 18th, Colonel Badgley, who had come by an independent route
+through the hills, joined my camp, and after a conference we came to
+the conclusion that at any rate I was right in claiming the country
+occupied by the Chussads and Choomyangs, as Manipuri territory. This
+was very satisfactory, as the day before I had been much annoyed by the
+Sumjok authorities having prevented some of the former <i>fears</i>
+coming to pay their respects to me. The attitude of the Sumjok people
+was passively hostile, they refused to join in making out the boundary,
+and threw every obstacle in the way of <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb212" href="#pb212" name="pb212">212</a>]</span>my doing so, but they
+were evidently not inclined to be the first to shed blood.</p>
+<p>On December 19th, I sent out two unarmed parties to clear some
+ground for survey marks, but one of them was stopped by an armed party
+of Sumjok men. On hearing this the next day I ordered the Manipuri
+subadar in charge, to halt where he was, and I wrote to the Pagan Woon
+to complain, and to ask him to order the <span class="corr" id=
+"xd20e2551" title="Source: Tsawbwaa">Tsawbwa</span> to interfere. On
+the 21st, I heard that another party had been stopped, and I asked with
+regard to them as I had done with the first. That afternoon I received
+a civil letter from the Pagan Woon brought by a Bo (captain), saying
+that he had orders to conduct negotiations at Tamu, and was not
+authorised to come to Kongal Tannah. I wrote a conciliatory reply
+urging him to visit us.</p>
+<p>On the 22nd of December, I heard that my two parties had been
+forcibly driven out by large bodies of armed men. I therefore called in
+some Manipuri detachments lest there should be a collision, as the
+atmosphere was getting very warlike, and only required a spark to
+produce a conflagration. All the population of the Kubo valley were
+said to be arming. The Burmese we talked to frankly admitted if there
+was a rupture the fault would lie with Mandalay, for not sending a
+proper representative to meet me, in accordance with the request of the
+Government of India, conveyed months before.</p>
+<p>Certainly one false move on our part would have provoked a rupture.
+However, everything comes to him who waits. We made every effort to
+keep <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb213" href="#pb213" name=
+"pb213">213</a>]</span>the peace, and while the authorities were
+opposing us we kept up a friendly intercourse with all the individual
+Burmese and Shans near us, and I carried on negotiation with the Kukis.
+The Chussads were inclined to be friendly, but the Choomyangs were
+still under the influence of Sumjok. Fortunately Colonel Badgley found
+that he could dispense with the two points from whence our men had been
+driven, and we discovered a little stream that formed an admirable
+boundary line entirely in accordance with the terms laid down in
+Pemberton&rsquo;s definition of the boundary.</p>
+<p>Further north, I knew the country well myself, and we had now no
+difficulty in laying down a definite boundary line about which there
+could be no doubt. This was done, and pillars were erected, and the
+line marked on the map. Manipur might, according to Pemberton&rsquo;s
+statement, have claimed a good deal of territory occupied by Burmese
+subjects, but this I refused to allow, as it would have been
+interfering with the &rdquo;<i>status quo</i>,&rdquo; which I desired
+to preserve. I called all the Sumjok people I could to witness what I
+had done, and they all agreed that what I said was fair, and that the
+fault, if any, lay with the Burmese authorities, for not taking part in
+the arrangement. This was willing testimony, as none of the people need
+have come near me. Even Tamoo, the chief of Old Sumjok, or Taap, as the
+Manipuris call it, visited me, and expressed his satisfaction with what
+had been done. On Christmas Day, 1881, my wife and I had a party of
+seven at our table, an unprecedented sight, and probably the last time
+that nine Europeans will ever assemble at <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb214" href="#pb214" name="pb214">214</a>]</span>Kongal Tannah. My
+friend Dun, who had been badly wounded by a pangee (bamboo stake) had
+to be carried in.</p>
+<p>Before leaving Kongal, I went round all the pillars that had been
+erected, and saw that they were intact. Mr. Ogle&rsquo;s party went off
+to the north, escorted through the village of Choomyang by Lieutenant
+Dun. These people being under the influence of Sumjok, it was a very
+delicate business getting through their village without a rupture. This
+affair Dun managed with great tact. We left Kongal on our homeward
+journey on the 6th of January, but previous to starting I brought my
+long-standing negotiations with the Chussads to a successful
+conclusion. They agreed to negotiate with me but not with the
+Manipuris, and to abide by my decision entirely.</p>
+<p>I sent a message to the Choomyangs and other Kukis who had given
+trouble, telling them that they were undoubtedly within Manipur, and
+that I gave them forty-two days in which to submit, or clear out,
+adding, that if at the end of that time they gave any trouble, they
+would be treated as rebels and attacked without more ceremony.
+Eventually they submitted and became peaceful subjects of Manipur. As
+to the great question&mdash;that of the boundary&mdash;I may here add
+that it received the sanction of the Government of India, and proved a
+thorough success. Though not noticing it officially, the Burmese
+practically acknowledged it, and it remained intact, till the Kubo
+valley became a British possession in December 1885.</p>
+<p>My wife and I reached Manipur on the 9th of <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb215" href="#pb215" name=
+"pb215">215</a>]</span>January, having made the last two marches in
+one, and next day were joined by Mr. Phayre, who had come,
+<i>vi&acirc;</i> Tamu. He gave it as his opinion, that the Pagan Woon
+was greatly disappointed at having had no authority from Mandalay to
+negotiate with me, and described him as a sensible well-disposed
+man.</p>
+<p>I had now to write my report of my mission, and having finished
+this, and handed over charge to my successor, I left Manipur with my
+wife on the 29th of January, reaching Cachar, where we met Mr. Elliott,
+the Chief Commissioner, on 5th of February. We left that evening by
+boat, and travelling with the utmost speed possible, with such means as
+we possessed, reached Naraingunge, near Dacca, and after waiting two
+days for a steamer went to Calcutta, <i>vi&acirc;</i> Goalundo, and
+thence to Bombay and England, where we arrived in March, both of us
+very much in need of a prolonged rest. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb216" href="#pb216" name="pb216">216</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2519" href="#xd20e2519src" name="xd20e2519">1</a></span> Major
+Edward Dun died on the 5th of June, 1895.&mdash;<span class=
+"sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch24" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XXIV.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Return to India&mdash;Visit Shillong&mdash;Manipur
+again&mdash;Cordial reception&mdash;Trouble with Thangal
+Major&mdash;New arts introduced.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">I left for India again in August 1884. I had had but a
+sad period of sick leave, as my wife never recovered from her fatigue
+and illness, and died in 1883. I was obliged to prolong my leave to
+make arrangements for my children.</p>
+<p>I took over charge of the Manipur Agency on the 1st October, 1884,
+at Shillong, and stayed a few days with the Chief Commissioner. I left
+again on 8th October and reached Cachar on the 15th, having made every
+effort to push on, and given my boatmen double pay for doing so. On my
+way to Cachar, I met people who complained to me of the way they had
+been treated in Manipur while I was away, and of the arrogance
+displayed by old Thangal Major, who, during my absence, had become
+almost despotic. Thangal was an excellent man when kept well in hand,
+but he required to be managed with great firmness. During the
+Maharajah&rsquo;s increasing illness, a good opportunity was given to a
+strong man to come to the front, and Thangal took advantage of it. On
+20th October, I reached Jeeree Gh&acirc;t, and was received with great
+effusion by the Minister Bularam Singh. At Kala Naga on the 22nd, I
+heard definite complaints against Thangal, a <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb217" href="#pb217" name="pb217">217</a>]</span>sure
+proof that something very bad was going on, as no one would have
+ventured to complain without grave provocation. Bularam Singh was
+Thangal&rsquo;s rival, so I asked him nothing, knowing well that I
+should hear as much as I wanted at Manipur. At Noongha, next day, there
+were fresh complaints, the charge being, that men told off to work on
+the roads were being used by Thangal to carry merchandize for
+himself.</p>
+<p>At Leelanong, overlooking the beautiful Kowpoom valley, some Nagas
+(Koupooees) brought me a man of their tribe who had been carried off as
+a boy by the Lushais, and only lately redeemed. He was still in Lushai
+costume, and though shorter and fairer, he greatly resembled one of
+that tribe, showing what an influence dress has.</p>
+<p>On 28th October, I arrived at Bissenpore, intending to march to the
+capital next day, but was delayed by an unpleasant circumstance. It
+was, as already mentioned, the custom for the Maharajah to meet me at
+the entrance to the capital on my arrival, but knowing that he was not
+well, I asked the minister to write and say that I did not expect him
+to do so, but I would invite the Jubraj to meet me at Phoiching,
+half-way between the capital and Bissenpore instead. I also wrote the
+same to my head clerk, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo, asking him to notify
+my wishes to the Durbar, as I felt it extremely likely that were
+Bularam Singh alone to write, old Thangal might intrigue and throw
+obstacles in the way to discredit him with me and the Durbar. The
+minister&rsquo;s letters were not answered, but I heard from Rusni Lall
+Coondoo, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb218" href="#pb218" name=
+"pb218">218</a>]</span>that he asked to see the Jubraj who had already
+heard from Bularam Singh, but he was told that he was ill. After a
+great deal of delay an interview was accorded, and though he appeared
+quite well, the Jubraj said he was too ill to come, but would send a
+younger brother. Feeling sure that there was nothing to prevent his
+coming, I sent a message of sympathy, also to say, that I would wait at
+Bissenpore till he recovered. I knew perfectly well that all this story
+had emanated from Thangal Major&rsquo;s brain, and that I was to be
+subjected to inconvenience and want of courtesy, in order to snub his
+colleague. He had suffered from a sore foot which prevented his coming
+to Jeeree Gh&acirc;t to meet me and he could not forgive Bularam Singh
+for having taken his place. The Jubraj ought to have known better, but
+among natives any slight offered to a superior is an enhancement to
+one&rsquo;s own dignity, so from this point of view he would gain in
+his own estimation.</p>
+<p>On the morning of October 30th, as soon as I was dressed, I saw
+Thangal Major outside my hut. I heard afterwards that, directly my
+decision had been communicated to the Durbar, he had volunteered to
+come out, and as he said, bring me in. When we had had a little
+friendly conversation, he with his usual bluntness, which I did not
+object to, asked me to go in, saying that the Wankai Rakpa<a class=
+"noteref" id="xd20e2604src" href="#xd20e2604" name="xd20e2604src">1</a>
+would meet me, the Jubraj being ill. I firmly declined, saying that I
+would wait till he recovered. He then assured me that the real cause
+was the critical state of the Jubraj&rsquo;s wife. I doubted the truth,
+but a lady being in the case, courtesy and good feeling <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb219" href="#pb219" name=
+"pb219">219</a>]</span>demanded that I should accept the statement as
+an excuse, and I therefore said I would leave, if the Wankai Rakpa and
+another prince met me on behalf of the Jubraj. This was at once agreed
+to, and I therefore marched off, being met in great state by the two
+princes, who rode by my side all the way. As I neared the capital, a
+vast crowd came out to meet me, the numbers increasing at every step,
+and I was received with every demonstration of respect and sympathy,
+many of those who knew my wife showing a delicacy of feeling that
+greatly moved me. Old Thangal, when I met him, spoke very kindly on the
+subject, saying, &ldquo;It is sad to see you return alone, and we know
+what it must be to you.&rdquo; Numberless were the enquiries by name
+after all the children. At last I reached the Residency, where my old
+attendants were ready to do all they could for me. It was something
+like home, old books, furniture, children&rsquo;s toys, still here and
+there, and in a corner of the verandah my little girl&rsquo;s litter,
+in which she was carried out morning and evening, but the faces that
+make home were away.</p>
+<p>I mention the foregoing incident regarding the Jubraj, as it is a
+good example of the small difficulties connected with etiquette, that
+one has to contend with in a place like Manipur. The question is far
+more important than it seems. Any relaxation in a trifling matter like
+this, seems to Asiatics a sign that you are disposed to relax your
+vigilance in graver questions. Indeed, to a native chief, etiquette
+itself is a very grave matter, and many terrible quarrels have arisen
+from it. I well remember a slight being offered to the Viceroy, because
+a Rajah <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb220" href="#pb220" name=
+"pb220">220</a>]</span>fancied he had not received all the honours due
+to him.</p>
+<p>I found a crop of small difficulties awaiting me in Manipur, the
+Durbar, and especially old Thangal, had got out of hand, and had to be
+pulled up a little. There were numberless complaints from British
+subjects of petty oppression which had to be listened to, and I felt it
+rather hard having this unpleasant duty to perform just after my
+return; but it was duty, and had to be done, and by dint of firmness,
+combined with courtesy, I soon set things right, but Thangal Major
+rather resented the steady pressure which I found it necessary to
+apply.</p>
+<p>Before leaving Manipur in 1881, I had sent off some Manipuris to
+Cawnpore to learn carpet making and leather work. When I returned,
+these men had long been making use of their knowledge in Manipur, and I
+found that first-rate cotton carpets and boots, shoes and saddles of
+English patterns, had been manufactured for the Maharajah, the
+workmanship being in all cases creditable, and in that of the carpets
+most excellent.</p>
+<p>I tried to send men to Bombay to learn to make art pottery, and the
+Maharajah was at one time anxious about it, but the correspondence with
+the School of Art was conducted in so leisurely a manner on their side,
+extending over nearly a year, that he got tired of it, and declined to
+send the men. I had a little pottery made in Manipur, which I brought
+home with me, the only existing specimens of an art that died out in
+its infancy.</p>
+<p>I had several pieces of silver work made to try the mettle of the
+Manipuri silversmiths, one bowl, a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb221"
+href="#pb221" name="pb221">221</a>]</span>most perfect copy of a
+Burmese bowl with figures on it in high relief, was beautifully
+executed, and still excites the admiration of all who see it.</p>
+<p>The Mussulman population of Manipur, was descended from early
+immigrants from India, Sylhet, and Cachar, who had married Manipuri
+wives; they numbered about 5000, and were rather kept under by the
+Durbar, but to nothing like the same extent that Hindoos would have
+been under a Mussulman Government. Formerly, they had to prostrate
+themselves before the Rajah like other subjects, but they having
+represented that this was against their religion, Chandra Kirtee Singh
+excused them from doing it, allowing a simple salaam instead. They,
+(probably owing to their dependent position), were not such an
+ill-mannered and disagreeable set as their co-religionists of Cachar,
+and were generally quiet and inoffensive. The headman of the sect
+received the title of Nawab from the Rajah. These men had a grievance
+to bring forward when I returned, and I procured them some redress.</p>
+<p>I visited the Maharajah in due course, and found him better than I
+expected, and I took an early opportunity of announcing my return to
+the Burmese authorities in the Kubo valley, receiving civil letters in
+return. Unfortunately, I found that great soreness still prevailed in
+Manipur on account of the non-settlement of the Kongal case, and I was
+constantly on the alert lest evil results should follow, as I always
+suspected old Thangal of a desire to make reprisals.</p>
+<p>When I had a day to spare, I went to see my experimental garden and
+fir wood, at Kang-joop-kool, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb222" href=
+"#pb222" name="pb222">222</a>]</span>finding everything in a
+flourishing state, the wood a tangled thicket, with foxgloves and other
+English flowers growing in wild profusion. One morning when walking
+out, I saw some prisoners going to work, and as they passed me, one or
+two looked as if they would like to speak. I accordingly passed by them
+again to give them an opportunity, when a man ran up and complained
+that he was imprisoned without any definite period being assigned, a
+common practice in Manipur. Another man, whom he called as a witness,
+spoke good Hindoostani, and on my enquiring where he learned it, he
+said he was a Manipuri from Sylhet. I sent for him directly I got home,
+and he came with Thangal Major, and, as he was a British subject, and
+the Durbar had no right to imprison him, I sent for a smith, and had
+his irons struck off in my presence. I spoke quietly, but firmly to the
+Minister, but showed him plainly that I would not stand having British
+subjects imprisoned except by my orders. The man&rsquo;s offence was
+not paying a debt for which he was security, and the punishment was
+just, according to the laws of Manipur, and would have been in England
+before 1861. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb223" href="#pb223" name=
+"pb223">223</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2604" href="#xd20e2604src" name="xd20e2604">1</a></span> Known as
+Regent during the recent troubles.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch25" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XXV.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">A friend in need&mdash;Tour round the
+valley&mdash;Meet the Chief Commissioner&mdash;March to
+Cachar&mdash;Tour through the Tankhool
+country&mdash;Metomie&mdash;Saramettie&mdash;Somrah&mdash;Terrace
+cultivators&mdash;A dislocation&mdash;Old quarters at Kongal
+Tannah&mdash;Return to the valley&mdash;A sad parting.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">On the 26th of November, my old friend Lieutenant Dun
+(now Major Dun, D.S.O.), joined me. Knowing I wanted a friend to cheer
+me in my loneliness, he had very kindly accepted the permission of his
+department to accompany me on a tour through the hills to the
+north-east of Manipur. No European was more deservedly popular of late
+years among all classes in Manipur, where he had visited me once or
+twice before. I felt his kindness deeply, he was always a charming,
+genial and highly intellectual companion, and many a long and tiring
+march was cheered by his society. On the 2nd of December, we started on
+a preliminary tour round the west and south of the valley, visiting the
+Logtak lake, with its floating islands, its island-hill of Thanga, with
+its orange gardens and place of exile, and large fishing establishment.
+When I first arrived in Manipur, oranges were a rarity. Now, owing to
+the enterprise of the Maharajah in planting trees, they were fairly
+common, and here we were able to gather them. The orange tree is
+capricious and all soils <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb224" href=
+"#pb224" name="pb224">224</a>]</span>will not suit it, and up to the
+fifth or sixth year it is always liable to be attacked by a grub that
+kills it, after that it becomes hardier. I never was very successful
+with orange trees, though I took great pains with them. From the Logtak
+lake, we marched to a place called Thonglel, in the hills, where we
+were met by all the representatives of the Kukis in that direction,
+thence to a place called Koombee, a settlement of Loees, low-caste
+Manipuris. Afterwards we marched to Chairel on the main river into
+which all the rivers of Manipur flow before it enters the hills to the
+south of the valley. After visiting Shoogoonoo, a frontier post, we
+returned to the capital, on December 11th, after a very pleasant tour
+of one hundred and forty-six miles in nine marching days.</p>
+<p>We next marched up the road to the Naga Hills, meeting the Chief
+Commissioner, Mr. Elliott, at Mao, and returning with him to Manipur,
+where the usual visits were exchanged. After a day or two&rsquo;s halt,
+the Chief Commissioner set out for Cachar and I accompanied him to the
+frontier at Jeeree Gh&acirc;t, returning to Manipur by forced marches.
+The bridge over the Mukker had been broken by a fallen tree, but the
+river, so formidable in the rains, was easily fordable. A short time
+before reaching the summit of Kala Naga, a pretty little incident
+occurred, which I have never forgotten. Some of my coolies were toiling
+up the steep ascent with their loads, when two young Kukis met us with
+smiling faces as if something had given them great pleasure. They
+immediately made two of the men with me put down their loads, and took
+them up <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb225" href="#pb225" name=
+"pb225">225</a>]</span>themselves to relieve the wearied ones. On my
+enquiry who they were, they said they were friends of my coolies and
+had come to help them. It was one of the prettiest sights I ever saw,
+the pleasure the two men seemed to derive from doing a kind act. Dun
+and I reached Manipur on the 10th of January. Soon after my return, in
+fact before the evening, a Lushai was brought to me who had been found
+in the jungle with his hands tightly fastened together by a bar of iron
+fashioned into a rude pair of handcuffs. He appeared to be mad, but
+harmless, and had probably been kept in confinement by his own people
+and had escaped. I had the irons taken off, and ordered him to be cared
+for, but he soon ran off in the direction of his own country.</p>
+<p>On the 21st of January, Dun and I set off on our tour through the
+Tankhool country. We marched <i>vi&acirc;</i> Lairen and
+Noongsuangkong, already described. The country had been surveyed, but
+the surveyors had taken names of villages given by men from the Naga
+Hills district, and they were unrecognisable to the native inhabitants.
+Much of my march, after leaving <span class="corr" id="xd20e2652"
+title="Source: Noonsuangkoong">Noongsuangkong</span>, was through a new
+country, and a very interesting and lovely country it was. The benefits
+of being under a strong government were evident in the peace that
+reigned everywhere. The Manipuri language also had spread, and in some
+villages seemed to be used by every one, while in others even children
+understood it. It was evidently the common commercial language.</p>
+<p>On the 26th, we halted on the Lainer river, the large village of
+Gazephimi being far above us at some miles distant. It was late in the
+afternoon but <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb226" href="#pb226" name=
+"pb226">226</a>]</span>Dun wanted to see all he could, and accompanied
+by some hardy Manipuris started. They all returned in a suspiciously
+short space of time, just at nightfall, Dun having astonished every one
+by his marching powers. He described the villagers as a surly, morose
+set, the description always given of them.</p>
+<p>On January 28th we reached Jessami, a fine village of the Sozai
+tribe; they much resembled the Mao people. They crowded round us and
+were much pleased when we showed them our watches, and allowed them to
+feel our boots and socks. Some of the houses were large and well
+stocked with rice. One old man took us into his house and showed us a
+shield carefully wrapped up in cloth that bore the tokens of his having
+slain fifteen people. The village contained no skulls, and our friends
+told us that they obeyed orders and killed no one. We enquired about
+the snowy peak of Saramettie, which was visible from some point not far
+<span class="corr" id="xd20e2661" title=
+"Source: dis ant">distant</span>, but the people assured us that they
+had never heard of it.</p>
+<p>On the 29th, some Metomi men came in with a young man who acted as
+interpreter, he having been captured, and then kept as a guest in
+Manipur for some time, to learn the language, by Bularam Singh, who was
+the Minister accompanying me. He seemed quite pleased to see his old
+host. The Metomi people were a strange set, quite naked, except for a
+cloth over the shoulders in cold weather. They are slighter built than
+the Angamis and Tankhools. They could count up to one hundred, and
+three of their numerals, four, six and seven, are the same as in the
+Manipuri language. They wear their hair <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb227" href="#pb227" name="pb227">227</a>]</span>cut across the
+forehead like some of the tribes in Assam. Their patterns of weaving
+rather resembled those of the Abors and Kasias, but were finer. They
+wore ear-rings of brass wire very cleverly made, the wire being
+imported through other tribes.</p>
+<p>On the 31st, having heard that I should be well received, Dun and I
+started for Metomi, with an escort of Manipuris. We first made a
+descent of 2000 feet to the Lainer, which we forded, the water being
+knee deep; there were the remains of a suspension bridge for use in the
+rainy season. We then ascended for about 1000 or 1500 feet, till near
+the village, when I halted my men and sent on my Angami interpreter,
+and one of the Metomi men, to ask that a party might come down to
+welcome us, as I had reason to think that the villagers were undecided
+as to what they should do, and I feared to frighten them. After waiting
+a long time, we heard a war-cry, and we all started to our feet and
+seized our arms, in case of an attack; the next minute, however, there
+was another cry, showing that the people were carrying loads. Soon
+after a long line of men appeared, each carrying a small quantity of
+rice, and the heads of the village came forward, presenting us with
+fowls, and heaped up the rice in front of me. We then walked on to the
+village, distant about a mile and a quarter, along an avenue of
+pollarded oaks, backed by fir trees. At last, after passing a ditch and
+small rampart, we reached the outer gate, then passed along a narrow
+path, with a precipice to our right, and a thick thorn hedge to our
+left for about eighty yards, as far as the inner gate, on entering
+which we found ourselves in the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb228"
+href="#pb228" name="pb228">228</a>]</span>village. We were then led
+along a series of winding streets till we came to the highest part.</p>
+<p>This was the most picturesque Naga village I have ever seen, and
+reminded me of an old continental town, the ground it covered, being
+very hilly, and the houses, constructed of timber with thatched roofs
+with the eaves touching one another, built in streets. Sometimes one
+side of a street was higher than the other, and the upper side had a
+little vacant space railed in, in front of the houses.</p>
+<p>The houses were more like those of the Tankhools than the Angamis,
+and contained round tubs for beer cut out of a solid block of wood, in
+shape like old-fashioned standard churns. The village contained pigs
+and dogs, and the houses were decorated with cows&rsquo; and
+buffaloes&rsquo; horns. We were welcomed in a friendly way, but our
+hosts did not seem to like the idea of our staying the night, of which
+we had no intention. Our watches and binoculars greatly interested
+them. We tried in vain to induce the women to come out, the men saying
+they feared lest we should seize them. This seemed very strange, as it
+was the only hill village I ever saw where the women had the slightest
+objection to appear. As the Manipuris always respect women, it could
+not be due to their presence, even had they had experience of them,
+which was not the case. On leaving the village, we passed through a
+splendid grove of giant bamboos, and then turned into our old path
+again. Metomi was said to contain seven hundred houses, but that seemed
+to me a very low estimate. We reached our camp near Jessami at 7
+<span class="sc">P.M.</span>, narrowly escaping a severe scorching, as
+some torch-bearers who came <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb229" href=
+"#pb229" name="pb229">229</a>]</span>to meet us, set fire to the grass
+prematurely, and we had to run hard to escape the flames. I wanted to
+make a vocabulary of the Metomi language the next day, but the whole
+village had a drinking bout, and every one was incapacitated during the
+rest of our stay.</p>
+<p>We marched to a place called Lapvomai on <span class="corr" id=
+"xd20e2684" title="Source: Febuary">February</span> 3rd, and next day,
+wishing to explore the country beyond, Dun and I, with a picked party
+of Manipuris, crossed the ridge above the village, and descending to
+the stream below, began the ascent of the great Eastern range,
+encamping in a most lovely spot in a pine forest. Every one was too
+tired to search for water, so the Manipuris went supperless to bed. Dun
+and I had brought a supply, which we shared with our few Naga
+followers, the Manipuris being prevented from doing the same, by their
+caste prejudices. Early next morning we started up the hill again,
+leaving the bulk of our party a mile or two in advance of our halting
+place, to search for water and cook. We, with two or three plucky
+Manipuris, whom hunger and thirst could not induce to leave us, pursued
+our upward path. At last we came on patches of snow, and in a hollow
+tree found the remains of a bear which had gone there to die. After a
+toilsome ascent, often impeded by a thick undergrowth of thorny bamboo,
+we, having long passed the region of fir trees, reached the summit at
+8000 feet, only to find, to our great disappointment, a spur from the
+main range blocking our view. As this range might have taken another
+day to surmount, and after all be only the precursor of another, we
+reluctantly traced our steps backwards, and reached <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb230" href="#pb230" name="pb230">230</a>]</span>our
+party who found water and cooked their food. We witnessed some amusing
+instances of rapid eating, on the part of our hungry followers, who had
+well deserved their dinner. We then descended to the stream, and
+encamped on its banks after being on foot for eleven hours.</p>
+<p>Next day, we marched to our old encampment at Lapvomai. On
+<span class="corr" id="xd20e2691" title=
+"Source: Febuary">February</span> 7th, we marched to Wallong, passing
+through lovely scenery, a series of deep valleys and ravines and high
+hills, with a splendid view down the valley of Thetzir and Lainer, and
+beyond, the junction of the latter with its north-eastern confluent, we
+finally encamped close to a very remarkable gorge. On the 8th, we had
+another march to the village of Lusour, where I greatly pleased a woman
+and some children, by giving them red cloths, the former would have
+denuded herself to put hers on, had I not prevented her. Next morning,
+before starting, we had our breakfast in public, and ordered some
+boiled eggs; the hill people are supremely indifferent to the age of an
+egg, and even seem to think the richness of flavour enhanced by age, so
+that almost all brought to us were either addled or had chickens in
+them. At least two dozen were boiled before we found one that we could
+eat, and as soon as an egg was proved to be bad, there was a great rush
+of Tankhools to seize the delicacy, and our bad taste in not liking
+them gave great satisfaction.</p>
+<p>On February 9th, we reached Somrah, a most interesting but severe
+march of eighteen miles. We first crossed a ridge 8000 feet in height,
+where among other trees we found a new species of
+yew&mdash;<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb231" href="#pb231" name=
+"pb231">231</a>]</span><i><span class="corr" id="xd20e2698" title=
+"Source: Cephelotaxus">Cephalotaxus</span></i>. After reaching the
+summit, we made a gradual descent along an exceedingly steep hillside,
+where a false step would have landed us in the stream 2000 feet below.
+After this we descended more rapidly, and, crossing a stream, followed
+a beautifully constructed watercourse through some recently cleared
+land. We traced our way along its windings for some miles, and then,
+after another ascent, at last came to a lovely undulating path through
+a forest of firs and rhododendrons, the latter just coming into flower.
+The path at length, after an ascent of 200 feet, brought us to the
+village, a finely built one of the regular Tankhool type, with over two
+hundred houses, built with stout plank walls, and having an appearance
+of much comfort.</p>
+<p>The next day we went to Kongailon, one of the Somrah group, making a
+descent of 2000 feet to cross a river, and again ascending 5600 feet.
+We passed many skilfully constructed watercourses and much terrace
+cultivation, indeed, the Somrah villages have the finest system of
+irrigation I have ever seen, and the long parallel line of watercourses
+on a hillside present a most remarkable appearance. At Kongailon, we
+halted a day to explore the country, and receive deputies from various
+villages. From the ridge behind the village, at a height of from 7000
+to 8000 feet, there was a fine view of the Somrah basin&mdash;valley it
+cannot be called; it is a huge basin, the rim of which consists of
+hills, having an average height of over 8000 feet, the villages being
+on the inner slopes or on bold spurs.</p>
+<p>On February 12th, a very severe march took us to <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb232" href="#pb232" name=
+"pb232">232</a>]</span>Guachan, a miserable-looking village full of
+very dirty people, many of whom were naked, their bodies being covered
+with a thick coating of dirt. We had to halt next day to rest the
+coolies, and to have a path cleared ahead. On February 14th, we again
+started, halting on the Cherebee river, at a height of 4400 feet. On
+our way, while passing along a lovely ridge, covered with rhododendrons
+in flower, we had a fine view of Saramettie, with its snow cap.</p>
+<p>Next day, we marched over Kachao-phung, 8000 feet high, and encamped
+on its slopes at 7600 feet. So perverse are the ways of the hill-men,
+that the road, a well-used one, was carried within fifty feet of the
+summit, though it would have been easy to cross at a much lower level.
+We encamped in a primeval forest of huge trees, the branches of which,
+moved by the fierce wind that blew all night, waved to and fro with
+such a threatening noise as to preclude sleep for a long time.</p>
+<p>On the evening of the 12th, one of our coolies was brought to me,
+who had dislocated his shoulder. We had no doctor of any kind with us,
+and no one who understood how to reduce it. Dun and I tried our utmost,
+and I put the poor fellow under chloroform, to relax the muscles and
+spare him pain, but, alas! with no result. I tried to induce him to go
+to Manipur, and be treated by my native doctor there; but he objected,
+and preferred going to his home; so I gave him a present and let him
+go, and very sorry we were to see him relinquish his only chance of
+getting right again. Every one ought to be taught practically to reduce
+a dislocation; I had often heard <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb233"
+href="#pb233" name="pb233">233</a>]</span>the process described, but
+never seen it done, and my lack of experience cost the poor Naga the
+use of his arm. It is one of the saddest parts of one&rsquo;s life in
+the wilds of India to meet cases of sickness and injury without the
+power to give relief. Simple complaints I treated extensively, and with
+great success, but it was grievous to see such suffering in more
+complicated cases, and to be unable to do anything. A skilful and
+sympathetic doctor has a fine field for good work in such regions. A
+sick savage is the most miserable of mortals.</p>
+<p>The good points of the Manipuris, as excellent material for hardy
+soldiers, were brought out very prominently on these long marches. No
+men could have borne the fatigue and hardships better or more patiently
+than they did. It quite confirmed me in the opinion I had long since
+formed that, taken every way, the Manipuris were superior to any of the
+hill-tribes around them. I remember that when at Jessami, one of the
+Manipuris, at my suggestion, challenged any Naga, who liked, to a
+wrestling match, none would come forward, though the villagers were a
+fine sturdy set. It was impossible, also, to help noticing, as we went
+along, the very remarkable aptitude the Manipuris possess for dealing
+with hill-tribes. The Burmese tried in vain to subdue the Tankhools,
+and in one case a force of seven hundred men, that they sent against
+them, was entirely annihilated. However, as the Manipuris advanced, the
+different tribes, after one struggle, quietly submitted, and on both
+occasions when I marched through the north-eastern Tankhool country,
+the people were in admirable order, and behaved <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb234" href="#pb234" name="pb234">234</a>]</span>as
+if they had always been peaceful subjects of Manipur.</p>
+<p>Next morning, though the thermometer was at thirty-six degrees, the
+Manipuris felt the cold so severely from the terrible wind that had
+been blowing all night, that they did not attempt to cook before
+marching, but started off and hurried down the hill to get to a warmer
+region. I never knew the hardy fellows do this before, and it shows the
+influence of a piercing wind in making cold felt, as I have often seen
+them quite happy on a still night with the thermometer at twenty-six
+degrees or lower.</p>
+<p>Five more marches brought us to Kongal Tannah, where I encamped on
+the ground we occupied in 1881&ndash;1882 when I was Boundary
+Commissioner. On our way, we received a visit from Tonghoo, the
+redoubtable Chussad chief, now a peaceful subject of Manipur, a man of
+the usual Kuki type, imperturbable and inscrutable. Next day, I
+inspected the boundary pillars I had set up, and found them intact, a
+satisfactory proof that the settlement was not unacceptable to either
+Manipur or Burmah.</p>
+<p>We marched back by the old route, encamping as we had done more than
+four years before in the deep valleys of the Maglung and Turet. On the
+24th, from the crest of the Yoma range, we saw the valley of Manipur
+once more at our feet, and in the evening encamped at Ingorok. Next
+day, I parted from my friend, I riding into Manipur, and Dun going
+north for a few days&rsquo; more survey of the country. He rejoined me
+on March 2nd. Thus ended one of the hardest, but, at <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb235" href="#pb235" name="pb235">235</a>]</span>the
+same time, one of the pleasantest marches I ever made, all the
+pleasanter for the society of such a clever and charming companion. We
+spent one more week together, and then Dun went back to his appointment
+in the Intelligence Department, to my great regret, and I settled down
+to my usual routine work, constantly varied by interesting little
+episodes. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb236" href="#pb236" name=
+"pb236">236</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch26" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XXVI.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">More troubles with Thangal
+Major&mdash;Tit-for-tat&mdash;Visit to the Kubo valley&mdash;A new Aya
+Pooiel&mdash;Journey to Shillong&mdash;War is declared&mdash;A message
+to Kendat, to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents&mdash;Anxiety as to
+their fate&mdash;March to Mao.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">During the spring of 1885, I had constant trouble with
+Thangal Major; the old man was perpetually doing illegal acts. He had
+lost his head during my absence in England, and though treated with
+every courtesy, he greatly resented being called to order. Some
+Mussulmans had complained to Mr. Elliott about the oppression exercised
+towards them, and in my absence Thangal was foolish enough to imprison
+them. Of course, I heard of it, and insisted on their release, and this
+weakened his authority. Again, he, as &ldquo;Aya Pooiel,&rdquo;
+<i>i.e.</i> Minister for Burmese Affairs, greatly resented our not
+having settled the Kongal case, and insisted on the authors being
+punished. We were very good friends privately, though I always expected
+further trouble with him. The Maharajah&rsquo;s ill health also gave me
+anxiety, as he was no longer the active man he once was, and was daily
+falling more and more under Thangal&rsquo;s influence.</p>
+<p>At last matters came to a crisis. On May 23rd, I received a letter
+from the Burmese authorities at Tamu, brought by a deputation reporting
+that <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb237" href="#pb237" name=
+"pb237">237</a>]</span>some murders had been committed by Manipuri
+subjects, and the next day when the visitors came to see me, they
+openly accused the Mombee Kukis of having done the deed. I felt sure
+that the outrage had been carried out at the instigation of Thangal
+Major, as a set-off against the Kongal case, and I sent for him. He
+came to see me on May 25th, and, when I opened the subject, he assumed
+rather a jaunty air. I spoke very gravely, and told him that it was a
+very serious business, and that an investigation must take place, and
+that I wished him, as Aya Pooiel, to accompany me. He replied in a very
+unbecoming manner, and began to make all sorts of frivolous excuses,
+the burden of his speech being that, as justice had not been done in
+the Kongal case, there was no need to investigate a case brought by the
+Burmese. I was very calm, and remonstrated several times, but seeing
+that it had no effect, I requested him to leave my presence, which he
+did. I then wrote to the Maharajah asking him to appoint Bularam Singh
+to aid me in the investigation, also reporting Thangal&rsquo;s conduct,
+and saying that I could not allow him to attend on me till he had
+apologised. The worst of Thangal&rsquo;s behaviour was, that he spoke
+in Manipuri, and in the presence of the Burmese messengers, who
+understood it, instead of in Hindoostani which no one but myself
+understood. Thinking carefully over the matter, I wrote to the
+Maharajah on May 26th, requesting him to replace Thangal in the Aya
+Pooielship by another officer, suggesting Bularam Singh, as I did not
+consider it safe to leave him in charge of the Burmese frontier.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb238" href="#pb238" name=
+"pb238">238</a>]</span></p>
+<p>There was the greatest opposition offered to my request, and the
+Maharajah made every effort to evade it. It was currently stated by
+people in the Court circle that it would be easier to depose the
+Maharajah himself, but I remained firm. Meanwhile, Bularam Singh was
+appointed to accompany me, and, on June 8th, I left for Moreh Tannah,
+near Tamu, halting the first day at Thobal. Before leaving, I received
+an apologetic letter from Thangal, and later he called on me, and made
+an ample apology, speaking very nicely. I accepted the apology
+personally, quite reciprocating his friendly sentiments, but told him
+that, having acted in the way he did, I could not trust him as Aya
+Pooiel.</p>
+<p>I reached Moreh Tannah on June 13th, and was visited by some
+Burmese. The next day, I proceeded to the scene of the murder, and
+exhumed two headless bodies, and took evidence regarding the raid.
+Before reaching Manipur, I heard through some Kukis the most convincing
+proofs that the Mombee people had committed the raid, and at Thangal
+Major&rsquo;s instigation. I obtained all the necessary details later
+on, but the Burmese war prevented my undertaking an expedition for the
+release of some Burmese captives who had been carried away and sold,
+though I accomplished it later on.</p>
+<p>At Moreh Tannah, I obtained some excellent mangoes, the only ones
+free from insects that I ever saw on the eastern frontier, those in
+Assam and Manipur being so full of them as to be uneatable when ripe,
+though beautiful to look at. Here also I had most unpleasant evidence
+of the existence of a plant that has the smell of decomposed flesh. I
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb239" href="#pb239" name=
+"pb239">239</a>]</span>imagined that a dead body had been buried under
+the temporary hut I lived in, till a Manipuri explained matters to me,
+and showed me the plant in question.</p>
+<p>I reached Manipur on June 20th, and a day or two after wrote to the
+Maharajah, calling to mind my letter respecting the Aya Pooielship, and
+again requesting Thangal&rsquo;s removal. The next day the old fellow
+called, and we had a very friendly interview, and I explained my
+reasons for acting as I had done. He seemed convinced, and rose and
+seized my hand, and said, &ldquo;You are right. I understand
+thoroughly.&rdquo; He then said he would cheerfully submit, and went
+away in an apparently excellent frame of mind. It is said that after
+this, his son, Lumph&eacute;l Singh, a very bad young man, talked him
+over and urged him to resist, but, anyhow, he soon after went to see
+the Maharajah, and recanted all he had said to me. However, I was
+determined to persist, and told the Maharajah plainly that he must
+choose between me and Thangal, with the result that he consented, and
+the Aya Pooielship was given to another.</p>
+<p>This struggle caused me great regret, as Thangal had many good
+qualities, and but for his having had his own way too much during my
+absence in England, would never have lost his head as he did. However,
+there was one good result, as I established very friendly relations
+with the Burmese authorities, who saw that I wished to be just, and
+this stood me in good stead when the war broke out.</p>
+<p>During the whole time that the dispute was going on, I had the
+support of the Jubraj, who said I was <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb240" href="#pb240" name="pb240">240</a>]</span>in the right, and
+most people, I believe, thought likewise. All the same it was painful
+to gain a victory over one who had worked well with me for years, more
+especially as I felt that the weakness of our own Government in not
+insisting on justice being done in the Kongal case, had given him some
+justification in his own eyes, though this was a plea that I could
+never admit.</p>
+<p>In October 1885, I went to Shillong to see the Acting Chief
+Commissioner, Mr. Ward, and as he was intending to march through
+Manipur on his way to the Naga Hills, I stayed with him, and we all
+left Shillong together on November 4th. We left Cachar on November
+12th, and halted that evening at Jeeree Gh&acirc;t, I on the Manipuri
+side of the river, the Chief Commissioner and his following on the
+British. A short time before dinner&mdash;we were all Mr. Ward&rsquo;s
+guests&mdash;I received a note from him, directing my attention to a
+telegram, and asking me to act on it. The telegram was a startling one,
+and was to the effect that war with Burmah was to commence, and that
+our troops would pass the frontier on a certain date; that there were
+nine European and many native British subjects in the employ of the
+Bombay-Burmah Corporation in the Chindwin forests with whom it had been
+impossible to communicate, and to ask me to make every effort to let
+them know the facts, and to do anything I could to assist them. The
+matter was extremely urgent, as, if I remember rightly, the 25th was
+the day for the troops to enter Upper Burmah, and every moment was of
+the utmost importance. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb241" href=
+"#pb241" name="pb241">241</a>]</span></p>
+<p>I thought it over for five minutes, and determined on a course of
+action, and set to work at once to follow it out. I knew perfectly well
+that with the frontier and all roads so carefully guarded, as I had
+seen those in the Kubo valley to be, there was absolutely no chance of
+a secret messenger advancing ten miles on Burmese soil, and I therefore
+resolved to send my letter through the Kendat Woon (Governor of
+Kendat), the great Burmese province of which the Kubo valley was part.
+I wrote a letter to the European employ&eacute;s of the Bombay-Burmah
+Corporation, giving the message I was asked to transmit, and urging
+them to make every effort to accept my hospitality and protection in
+Manipur. To this letter I appended Burmese and Manipuri translations,
+and put them in an open envelope addressed in the three languages,
+hoping and believing that, seeing that the contents were the same in
+both languages, which they had the means of understanding, the Burmese
+authorities would, on the principle of the Rosetta stone, assume that I
+had said the same in English.</p>
+<p>This done, I enclosed the envelope in a letter to the Kendat Woon,
+in which I told him exactly how matters stood, and that in a short time
+Burmah would be annexed, and urging him, as he valued the goodwill of
+the conquerors, to make every effort to protect and aid the British
+subjects in his province. I asked him to deliver the letter, to which I
+had appended translations that he might read what I said, and to bear
+in mind that any service he might render would be richly rewarded and
+never forgotten, while he might rely on my <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb242" href="#pb242" name="pb242">242</a>]</span>word
+as his well-wisher; that a terrible punishment would befall any one who
+injured a hair of the head of a British subject. In addition to this, I
+wrote letters to the Burmese authorities at Tamu, with whom I was on
+friendly terms, begging them, as they valued their lives, and my
+goodwill, to forward the letter to the Woon with all possible
+speed.</p>
+<p>This done, I went to dine with the Chief Commissioner, and when he
+asked if I had received his note, I told him I had acted on it. Feeling
+that I had done all that I could for the best, I took no further steps
+at the time than to issue orders to the Manipuri frontier stations, to
+give all aid requisite to fugitives from Burmah, and to make
+arrangements for their being entertained in Manipur, should they arrive
+in my absence.</p>
+<p>I heard afterwards that there was great anxiety in Burmah when it
+was known that I had communicated with our isolated countrymen through
+the Burmese authorities, it being regarded as likely to seal their
+fate.</p>
+<p>I marched to Mao on the Naga Hills frontier with the Chief
+Commissioner, and then returned to Manipur, arriving on the 4th, and on
+the 5th heard from Moreh Tannah that a European was being kept a
+prisoner at Kendat. I wrote at once to the Tamu Phoongyee, asking him
+to use his influence to release him, saying that I was in a position to
+march to his aid in case my letter had no effect.</p>
+<p>On December 9th, I heard that all the Europeans at Kendat had been
+murdered, the Queen of Burmah&rsquo;s secretary having arrived with one
+hundred regular troops on a steamer and ordered their execution, and
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb243" href="#pb243" name=
+"pb243">243</a>]</span>that forty of the Bombay-Burmah
+Corporation&rsquo;s elephants and all their native followers had been
+arrested.</p>
+<p>On December 10th, the news of the capture of Mandalay arrived. It
+gave immense satisfaction, and it was said that many of the old people,
+who knew what Burmah was, were so pleased that they could not eat their
+dinners. The Jubraj visited me to offer his congratulations, and a
+salute of thirty-one guns was fired. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb244" href="#pb244" name="pb244">244</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch27" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XXVII.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">News from Kendat&mdash;Mr. Morgan and his people
+safe&mdash;I determine to march to Moreh Tannah&mdash;March to
+Kendat&mdash;Arrive in time to save the Bombay-Burmah Corporation
+Agents&mdash;Visit of the Woon&mdash;Visit to the Woon.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">On December 17th, I at last received a letter from Mr.
+A. J. Morgan, the chief agent of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation at
+Kendat, acknowledging my letter of November 12th. He told me that three
+Europeans, Messrs. Allan, Roberts and Moncur, had been murdered on the
+River Chindwin by the Queen&rsquo;s Secretary; that he and Messrs.
+Ruckstuhl and Bretto had been protected by the Kendat Woon, and four
+others by the Mengin Woon. He said the Chindwin valley was filling with
+dacoits, <i>i.e.</i>, brigands, and that their position was very
+precarious. I at once wrote to the Woon thanking him warmly for the
+protection he had accorded to my fellow-subjects, and sent him a pair
+of handsome double-barrelled guns, one of them a rifle, as a present,
+also five hundred rupees, which I asked him to give to Mr. Morgan.</p>
+<p>Feeling certain of the dangerous position of the British subjects at
+Kendat, if they were surrounded by disbanded soldiery who had turned
+brigands, I determined to march to the frontier, so as to be ready to
+give aid, if necessary. I accordingly asked the Maharajah to lend me
+400 Manipuris, and 500 Kukis, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb245"
+href="#pb245" name="pb245">245</a>]</span>and one mountain gun. With
+these, and fifty men of my escort of the 4th Bengal Infantry, under
+Subadar Baluk Ram Chowby, I marched off on December 19th.</p>
+<p>My escort consisted of sixty men of all ranks, but I weeded out ten
+as not likely to stand the severe marches we might have to undertake. I
+then paraded the remainder and addressed them, saying that any man who
+felt himself unfit for service might fall out, and I should think none
+the worse of him. All stood fast, and then I said, &ldquo;Now, I will
+not take you, unless you promise me not to fall sick, till you have
+escorted me back safely to Manipur.&rdquo; The men gave a shout of
+acclamation, and I gave the order to march, and never had I better,
+braver or more devoted men under me, or men who bore hardship and want
+of all the little comforts of life more cheerfully.</p>
+<p>We reached Moreh Tannah, where I had intended to halt and watch
+events, on December 23rd, and there I received a letter from Mr.
+Morgan, who described the state of things at Kendat as daily getting
+worse, and expressed his conviction that if the dacoits reached Kendat,
+the Woon would be unable to hold his own; he therefore hoped I might be
+able to afford them the aid they so sorely needed, as, unless a force
+marched to their assistance speedily, their lives would not be safe. On
+hearing this, I determined to march for Kendat at once, and by the
+rapidity of our movements overcome all resistance; indeed, not to allow
+the Burmese time to think of it. Accordingly we marched to Tamu, where
+the authorities at once submitted, and I declared the country
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb246" href="#pb246" name=
+"pb246">246</a>]</span>annexed, and reappointed the old officials,
+pending further orders, promising my protection to all classes, and
+calling on the people to complain at once if any of my followers
+injured them.</p>
+<p>All this done, we marched to Mamo, some miles beyond Tamu, where we
+halted in the rice fields attached to the village which was very
+strongly stockaded. My camp was at once filled with men, women and
+children, all disposed to be friendly and all willing to receive little
+presents. It was a pretty feature of the Kubo valley, as of Upper
+Burmah generally, and as in Assam formerly, that immediately on leaving
+the village cultivation you plunged at once into forest.</p>
+<p>My party was not so numerous as I could have wished. The Minister,
+Bularam Singh, accompanied me, but the nine hundred men all told, that
+I had asked for, were not there, and the supply of provisions was
+scanty. I made all my escort take ten days&rsquo; food per man, with
+orders not to touch it, without my direct permission, and I procured
+supplies <span class="corr" id="xd20e2806" title=
+"Source: where-ever">wherever</span> I could, as we went along. I also
+took a large supply of money.</p>
+<p>As Bularam Singh was holding the appointment formerly held by
+Thangal, he had not the knowledge to help him in all petty details that
+the other would have had. However, realising more keenly than ever from
+my experience at the relief of Kohima, the extreme value of time, and
+of rapid strokes, I pushed on at all hazards, trusting to have my
+numbers made up.</p>
+<p>I had a few first-rate Manipuri officers with me, and my old
+orderlies, Sowpa, Thutot, and Sundha. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb247" href="#pb247" name="pb247">247</a>]</span>I took my excellent
+hospital assistant, Lachman Parshad, and my Manipuri secretary and
+interpreter, Chumder Singh, and most of my old chuprassies, who were
+invaluable. My head clerk, Rusni Lall Coondoo, was unfortunately on
+leave, marrying his daughter, and I greatly missed him.</p>
+<p>On the morning of December 24th, we started from Mamo, determined to
+reach Kendat next day, though the Burmese said it was <i>absolutely
+impossible</i> to do it. I had with me my escort of fifty men of the
+4th B.I., and between three hundred and four hundred Manipuris, the
+Kukis not having arrived. The old road had been disused, and our path
+was a perfect zigzag. We halted long after sunset at Pendowa on a small
+stream, the Nunparoo. The mountain gun did not arrive, and half our
+force was not up till midnight. When all the coolies had arrived, I
+told them that if we reached Kendat next evening, they should have
+buffalo to eat.</p>
+<p>The country through which we had passed was not naturally a
+difficult one, but there had been no attempt to make it good, and in
+places it was very bad, all the more so from the unnecessary number of
+times that we crossed the same river. I was much interested to see
+large numbers of bullock carts in the villages, such not being used in
+Manipur.</p>
+<p>Next morning, we started early, and soon began to ascend the
+Ungocking hills. This seemed endless, one range succeeded another, here
+and there we saw coal cropping out of the hillside. After about 12.30
+<span class="sc">P.M.</span>, the path was alternately along the bed of
+a stream and over high ridges, one of those meaningless, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb248" href="#pb248" name=
+"pb248">248</a>]</span>winding roads that seem made expressly to
+irritate people with no time to spare. At last, in the far distance, we
+saw a scarped hill, that was said to be close to Kendat, and cheered by
+the sight, we pressed on, but it was hours before we reached the goal.
+About 4 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, I met a Burmese, who spoke
+Hindoostani, and gave me a letter from Mr. Morgan, telling me that he
+and his party were all well, and earnestly longing for our arrival. The
+man told me that he was the &ldquo;Hath&eacute;e Jemadar,&rdquo;
+<i>i.e.</i>, the man in charge of the elephants, and he accompanied
+us.</p>
+<p>At last, just after sunset we reached the Chindwin river, even then,
+in the dry season, six hundred yards wide. We gave a loud cheer and
+hoisted the Union Jack; and the &ldquo;Hath&eacute;e Jemadar&rdquo;
+went over to tell the Europeans we had come to save, of our arrival.
+All my escort and most of the Manipuris marched in with me; every man
+had done his best and hearty were the congratulations that passed
+between us.</p>
+<p>We had marched sixty-five miles over a terribly rough country, the
+last thirty being quite impassable for even laden mules, in thirty
+hours. A havildar of the 4th said, &ldquo;Sahib, is not our march one
+of the greatest on record?&rdquo; I told him that it was. It was
+pleasant to think that we had arrived on Christmas Day. How little my
+children in England realised the way I was employed.</p>
+<p>In less than an hour Mr. Morgan, who had seen our arrival, came over
+accompanied by Messrs. Ruckstuhl and Bretto, his subordinates, all
+dressed in Burmese costume, everything they had having been plundered
+in the Woon&rsquo;s absence. Mr. Morgan brought over a message from the
+Woon to me, saying that he <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb249" href=
+"#pb249" name="pb249">249</a>]</span>submitted to my authority, and
+would come over to-morrow, and tender his formal submission.</p>
+<p>Next day he appeared with Mr. Morgan and made his submission. He was
+a dignified old man, with a pleasant face expressive of much character.
+I thanked him on behalf of Government for his services in protecting
+British subjects, and told him that, while assuming charge of the
+country on the part of the British Government, I wished him to remain
+in office, and conduct the administration pending definite
+instructions. I told him that I expected him to maintain order, and
+quiet down the country, and promised him any assistance which he might
+require to aid him in the endeavour.</p>
+<p>After this, I set to work to secure supplies with Mr. Morgan&rsquo;s
+aid, so as to be ready for any emergency, and then crossed the river
+and called on the Woon and inspected the stockade, a huge enclosure,
+420 yards long and 163 wide, with a wall of solid teak logs, 18 feet
+high, and none less than a foot square, with strong heavy gates. I
+returned to my camp before nightfall, and the mountain gun arrived
+under the escort of Gour Duan Subadar. Next day, I heard that the
+Mengin Woon had absconded, finding his position untenable.</p>
+<p>Had I had a trained levy at my disposal, as would have been the case
+had my advice been followed, I could have easily sent a force to occupy
+Mengin, and might indeed have marched to Mandalay. As it was,
+commanding only irregulars, my position was one of daily anxiety.</p>
+<p>The site of Kendat was very picturesque, situated on the high left
+bank of the Chindwin, up and down <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb250"
+href="#pb250" name="pb250">250</a>]</span>which a view of many miles is
+obtained, the reach being there a long one. The stockade contained the
+greater part of the official residences, and a good proportion of the
+inhabitants, but there were many houses outside, and temples and
+phoongyes&rsquo; residences. Below the town was a large Manipuri
+village, inhabited by the descendants of captives taken in the war of
+1819&ndash;25.</p>
+<p>In the rainy season, when the Chindwin is at its height, and 1200
+yards wide, with the long ranges of the Manipuri Hills in the
+background, the view is said to be very beautiful. For many miles round
+Kendat, to the east of the Chindwin, the country is flat, but studded
+here and there with strange-looking hills with scarped sides, that rise
+abruptly out of the plains, calling to mind the hill-forests of Central
+India. Kendat was well supplied with boats, many of them being most
+elaborately carved.</p>
+<p>It was a great misfortune that none of the men of my escort
+understood the management of boats, a most useful accomplishment on the
+eastern side of India, where rivers abound, and one in which the men of
+the old Assam regiments used to be proficient. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb251" href="#pb251" name="pb251">251</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch28" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XXVIII.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">People fairly
+friendly&mdash;Crucifixion&mdash;Carelessness of Manipuris&mdash;I
+cross the Chindwin&mdash;Recross the Chindwin&mdash;Collect
+provisions&mdash;Erect stockades and fortify our position&mdash;Revolt
+at Kendat&mdash;We assume the offensive&mdash;Capture boats and small
+stockades&mdash;Revolt put down&mdash;Woon and Ruckstuhl
+rescued&mdash;Steamers arrive and leave.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The Burmese were fairly friendly to us, though they
+did not display any love for the Manipuris, and the latter showed
+rather too plainly that they thought the tables were turned, and that
+they now had the upper hand of the Burmese.</p>
+<p>In many of the villages along our line of route in the Kubo valley,
+we had observed crosses ready for the crucifixion of malefactors,
+especially dacoits. These were also to be seen here and there, on the
+banks of the river at Kendat, but the Woon afterwards told me that he
+rarely crucified offenders and disliked employing torture; indeed he
+had the reputation of being a merciful old man. However, the people at
+large seemed quite to approve of strong measures, and knowing what
+Burmese dacoits are capable of, I hardly wonder. After I left, the man
+who introduced himself to me as &ldquo;Hath&eacute;e Jemadar&rdquo;
+incautiously surrendered to some dacoits, who first broke the bones of
+his legs and arms inch by inch, and then ripped him up!</p>
+<p>On the 28th December, I crossed the river with my <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb252" href="#pb252" name=
+"pb252">252</a>]</span>whole force, and entrenched myself on the
+sandbank of the Chindwin. That evening, I heard from Mr. Morgan, that
+there was a strong party opposed to the Woon, and greatly dissatisfied
+with him for having submitted. Troops had been expected up the river
+from the British force at Mandalay, and their delay encouraged the
+Burmese to hold up their heads. Next day, December 29th, the air was
+full of rumours, and some of the Burmese Manipuris, I have just alluded
+to, plied my Manipuris with all sorts of stories, of a rising against
+us, on the part of the Burmese. These stories had a great effect on the
+Manipuris, and they displayed so much unsteadiness, and at the same
+time such gross carelessness, that I determined to recross the river. I
+heard too that six men coming to join me, had been killed, and three
+wounded on the road, report said, by Burmese. I laughed at the idea, as
+I was sure that the assailants were wild Chins, as the Burmese would
+not show their hand prematurely. However, the news spread, and served
+to dishearten the men.</p>
+<p>On the 30th I transported my whole force to the opposite bank, it
+cost me incredible trouble, and I had to superintend the most petty
+details myself. I sent over a party to construct a stockade into which
+the Manipuris could be penned like a flock of sheep for the night and
+which I could enlarge afterwards, and I insisted on the work being
+finished that day. It <i>was</i> finished, and last of all I crossed
+the river with my escort.</p>
+<p>Next day, Mr. Morgan told me that things had quieted down very much
+among the Burmese; we did all in our power to collect provisions, and I
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb253" href="#pb253" name=
+"pb253">253</a>]</span>enlarged the stockade, improving it from day to
+day, till it at last became a commodious and strong defensive building,
+scientifically constructed. I occupied a small stockade on a hillock
+above it, whence I had a good view, and could overlook the Manipuris. I
+had a circle of outlying pickets supplied by the Kuki irregulars with
+me, and these were a perpetual safe-guard against surprise during the
+long dark nights. We cleared the jungle from round our stockade, and
+did all we could to make our position secure.</p>
+<p>Still the Manipuris were a constant anxiety, illustrating the
+well-known saying, &ldquo;Fools rush in, where angels fear to
+tread.&rdquo; Their carelessness was astonishing. I had the utmost
+difficulty in getting them to take the most ordinary precautions. The
+bravest and best-disciplined troops in the world would never think of
+neglecting every rule of warfare in the way that they did. Fire was a
+constant danger, and having no warm clothes, the Manipuris could hardly
+be prevented from lighting fires at night, thereby incurring a double
+danger, viz., that of setting fire to the stockade, also lighting up
+our position and enabling an enemy to fire at us. I was as a rule
+eighteen or nineteen hours on foot out of the twenty-four, and during
+the five or six allotted to sleep, I generally got up three times, to
+see that all was right.</p>
+<p>Provisions began to come in, and on the last day of the year, I sent
+off 400 coolies to Moreh Tannah for provisions, so as to reduce the
+useless mouths, and to lessen the danger from fire. I rebuilt all the
+huts of green grass, as less inflammable than dry materials.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb254" href="#pb254" name=
+"pb254">254</a>]</span></p>
+<p>On January 1st, evil rumours were again afloat, and I asked the Woon
+if he were sure of his position. He replied that he was, and had
+perfect confidence that he could keep every one in hand. However, I
+went on collecting provisions, and while hoping for the arrival of the
+troops expected up the river, prepared for any eventuality. On January
+3rd, large supplies of rice came in. The Issekai, an officer holding
+the rank of major, came twice to see me, and all seemed well. Mr.
+Morgan was with me all day helping with the rice sellers, but left
+about 4 <span class="sc">P.M.</span> About an hour afterwards, he
+reappeared with Mr. Bretto, saying that they had been shut out of the
+stockade, but that Mr. Ruckstuhl was detained there. They suspected a
+rising throughout the country, as a rumour had just been spread that a
+Royal prince was about to arrive at Kendat with 3000 men.</p>
+<p>This was bad news, and I begged Messrs. Morgan and Bretto to stay
+the night with me. There was no time to be lost; I felt certain that
+the country had risen, and that in a few hours our communications would
+be cut, so I wrote to Manipur asking the Maharajah to send me 1000 men
+under Thangal Major at once to Moreh Tannah, to await events, and 500
+to join me at Kendat, also a good supply of provisions. I telegraphed
+also to Government saying what had happened, and that I had taken every
+precaution, and that they might rely on my doing all that man could. I
+asked for no help, feeling that, if, with my present resources, I could
+not retrieve my position, I should soon be past help. I also wrote a
+few lines home, explaining matters in <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb255" href="#pb255" name="pb255">255</a>]</span>case I was killed,
+with a few last words to my children.</p>
+<p>These letters I sent off by swift and trusty men well armed, with
+orders to push on with all speed. Having done this, I prepared for a
+life-and-death struggle next day.</p>
+<p>As the morning broke and the heavy mist began to rise earlier than
+usual, we speedily saw the changed aspect of affairs. We had secured
+two boats under a guard the night before, but all besides had been
+taken from our side of the river. All the people had left a
+neighbouring village, but just below us we saw one boat after another
+leaving, heavily laden with the inhabitants and their portable goods.
+The opposite sandbank too, was occupied in force by the Burmese, who
+held our former entrenchment, and one or two small stockades. By this
+time also the country in our rear had risen, so we were completely cut
+off. The opposite bank was crowded with large boats, giving every
+opportunity to the enemy to send a strong party over to attack us by
+night, were he so disposed.</p>
+<p>Immediate action was necessary, if only to save the British
+subjects, and the faithful Woon who had suffered in our cause. The good
+old Minister, Bularam Singh, quite lost his nerve, and begged and
+implored me to make terms and retreat, as the only means of saving
+ourselves. I told him that my very children and friends would despise
+me, if I, for a moment, contemplated such a course, and that there was
+nothing for it but to fight it out.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Which man should you respect most?&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;one
+who cringed at your feet, or one who boldly <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb256" href="#pb256" name=
+"pb256">256</a>]</span>struck you?&rdquo; &ldquo;The man who struck
+me,&rdquo; he replied. &ldquo;Exactly so,&rdquo; I said; &ldquo;and it
+is the same with the Burmese. I intend to strike a hard
+blow.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I had an ultimatum written in Burmese, demanding the surrender of
+the Woon, and his officers, and of all British subjects within two
+hours, under pain of my attacking the stockade; this I did, to run as
+little risk of injury to the captives, as possible. I had the ultimatum
+tied to a bamboo, and sent in a boat to a shallow part of the river,
+and I called to a Burmese to take it. This was done. I looked at my
+watch, and when the time expired, opened fire on the stockade.</p>
+<p>For the first time in my life, I laid a gun. I judged the distance
+from the high bank where we stood, to the great stockade, to be 1250
+yards, and the first shell went over it. I lessened the range by 50
+yards, and again fired, and this time struck the stockade fair and
+well. We saw and heard the shell explode, and our men raised a loud
+shout of triumph. This little success gave the Manipuris renewed
+confidence. I lined our bank with picked shots of the 4th B.I., and
+under cover of these and the gun, sent two parties across in the boats,
+with orders to attack and destroy all the small stockades, and to
+capture some boats to convey more of our men across, and to burn all
+the rest, so as to prevent the enemy assuming the offensive.</p>
+<p>Mr. Morgan, eager for the fray, went as a volunteer and assumed the
+natural position of leader. We kept up the fight all day. Shot after
+shot struck the great stockade, all the small ones were captured and
+burned, the enemy driven from the shore and <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb257" href="#pb257" name=
+"pb257">257</a>]</span>every boat within sight either brought over to
+our side, or sent burning down the river.</p>
+<p>Meanwhile, the Burmese had not been entirely passive, they had
+opened an artillery fire on us, and one or one-and-a-half-pound shots
+began to fall on our side. Old Bularam Singh walked up and down,
+notwithstanding this, with the greatest indifference, having now
+recovered his spirits, and behaved very well.</p>
+<p>By sunset, nothing remained to be captured but the great stockade,
+and many were the volunteers, both Hindoostanis and Manipuris who
+begged to be allowed to cross once more and attack it. However, I would
+not consent, only two men, Messrs. Morgan and Bretto, knew all the
+turns and windings of the place, and one false move might convert our
+success into a disaster. All the same, I felt terribly anxious as to
+the fate of the Woon and of the British subjects.</p>
+<p>I went to my hut in the evening, feeling that we had done all we
+could. As I passed through the stockade, I was surprised to see the
+clever way in which the coolies remaining with us had strengthened it,
+by digging deep trenches sufficient to afford a man perfect protection
+against rifle fire, even without the stockade.</p>
+<p>I rose early on January 5th, after an anxious night, having given
+orders for a party to be ready to cross the river with me, to attack
+the great stockade; but, just as I left my hut to make a start, I was
+met by Mr. Ruckstuhl with irons on his ankles&mdash;he had got rid of
+the connecting bars&mdash;who told me that it had been evacuated. The
+facts I learned were as follows. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb258"
+href="#pb258" name="pb258">258</a>]</span></p>
+<p>On the evening of January 3rd, incited by the near approach of three
+thousand men and the promised support of the Tsawbwas of Thoungdoot,
+Wuntha, Kubo, and six other districts, the bad spirits in the town rose
+against the Woon, and put him and his family and chief officials, with
+Mr. Ruckstuhl, in irons. It was only by a mistake that Messrs. Morgan
+and Bretto were shut out of the stockade and not arrested.</p>
+<p>When my ultimatum arrived, the Burmese laughed at the idea of my
+doing anything, and when our fire opened on them they were just about
+to crucify the Woon and Ruckstuhl. When, however, our attack began to
+make an impression on them, and shells burst in the stockade,
+especially one in a room where the chief men were deliberating, they
+retreated, leaving their prisoners. Mr. Ruckstuhl had hidden under a
+hedge, and the Woon and his family were taking refuge in a
+Phoongye&rsquo;s house. This was good news and an immense relief to
+every one; we felt we had done our work.</p>
+<p>I immediately took a party across the river and rescued the Woon,
+and took possession of the huge stockade, which would have cost us many
+a life to capture, had it been well defended. We took sixteen guns and
+a large number of wall pieces, all said to have been wrested from
+Manipur in former days.</p>
+<p>The Woon&rsquo;s house was apparently intact, but empty, and the
+town was deserted. In a house we found a hen on a brood of chickens,
+unmoved apparently by all the firing and commotion. I made over the
+Woon&rsquo;s house to him again, and I established a Manipuri guard for
+his protection. With <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb259" href="#pb259"
+name="pb259">259</a>]</span>reference to the guns, I should say that I
+did not take them from the stockade on my first arrival at Kendat, not
+wishing in any way to lower the prestige of the Woon who had done us
+such good service, and who professed himself quite able to account for
+them, and to keep the people in order. As events proved, we were quite
+able to take them when necessary.</p>
+<p>Just as we had finished our work, and Mr. Morgan and I were taking
+some food in the afternoon, two steamers came in sight far down the
+Chindwin. These proved to be the party sent to rescue the British
+subjects at Kendat, under Major Campbell, 23rd Madras Infantry; and
+consisted of a company of the Hampshire Regiment and some blue jackets,
+and some of the 23rd Madras Infantry, and great was their
+disappointment to find that the work had been done before they arrived.
+However, had we waited for them, there would have been no one to rescue
+on their arrival.</p>
+<p>To my intense surprise, I heard that Kendat was to be abandoned, but
+no arrangements had been made for carrying away the Native British
+subjects. Mr. Morgan would not abandon these and the valuable property
+of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation, and elected together with Mr. Bretto
+to stay with me. I strongly urged Mr. Ruckstuhl (whose brother, one of
+the refugees from Mengin, had been brought up by Major Campbell) to
+leave for Rangoon with the steamers, as I thought, after twice narrowly
+escaping a violent death, he had better run no more risks. He took my
+advice. The steamers left on January 8th. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb260" href="#pb260" name="pb260">260</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch29" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XXIX.</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Mischief done by departure of steamers&mdash;Determine
+to establish the Woon at Tamu&mdash;The Country quieting
+down&mdash;Recovery of mails&mdash;Letter from the Viceroy&mdash;Arrive
+at Manipur&mdash;Bad news&mdash;I return to Tamu&mdash;Night march, to
+Pot-tha&mdash;An engagement&mdash;Wounded&mdash;Return to
+Manipur&mdash;Farewell&mdash;Leave for England.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">We had gained immense prestige by the vigorous way in
+which we had put down the revolt, and the people from the neighbouring
+country began to come in and make their submission, but the departure
+of the steamers was a great blow to it. Of course, the natives
+attributed it to fear. Had they stayed, all trouble would have been at
+an end, and the country would have quietly settled down. As it was,
+this unfortunate retreat again upset the minds of all.</p>
+<p>The Chindwin, and the route to it through Manipur, had not been
+considered when the campaign was decided on. No part of a country that
+it is intended to annex can with safety be neglected, and the Chindwin
+valley was a very important part of Burmah.</p>
+<p>As I have said before, a properly organised Manipur Levy would have
+solved all difficulties at the outbreak of war; failing that, a force
+specially devoted to the Chindwin valley, and entering through Manipur,
+and aided by local knowledge acquired during many years on that
+frontier, might have occupied the province of Kendat before any
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb261" href="#pb261" name=
+"pb261">261</a>]</span>time had been given for the spread of
+lawlessness. It is almost incredible that, considering the part taken
+by Manipur, and troops moving through Manipur during the war of
+1885&ndash;6, showing the immense facilities offered by that route,
+that no inquiry whatever was made regarding it before the outbreak of
+hostilities.</p>
+<p>I saw plainly that without the certainty of troops and one steamer
+at least arriving to reinforce us, it would be unwise to attempt to
+hold Kendat so far from our base at Manipur, therefore I made
+preparations for escorting all British subjects and property to Tamu,
+within the Woon&rsquo;s jurisdiction, advising the latter to establish
+himself there for the present, and from that point gradually
+reconsolidate his authority. He greatly approved of the suggestion, and
+I made arrangements with a view to carrying it into effect.</p>
+<p>It was not till the 10th of January that any post arrived from
+Manipur. The Kubo valley had risen, it was said, in obedience to orders
+received from the Kul&eacute; Tsawbwa and a man called the Lay Kahiyine
+Oke, and it was reported that we had been annihilated; but the sight of
+all the captured guns, which I at once sent to Manipur, told the people
+a different tale, and they soon subsided and returned to their
+allegiance. I sent out a party to attack and destroy the house of a
+hostile chief, east of the Chindwin, and it was successfully
+accomplished.</p>
+<p>Several letter bags which had been stolen were now given up, and I
+issued proclamations to all the neighbouring chiefs calling on them to
+remain quiet, and keep their people in order. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb262" href="#pb262" name="pb262">262</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Two hundred of the troops I had sent for from Manipur, arrived at
+Kendat, and 300 more I ordered to be stationed at different points on
+the road. The 1000 men under Thangal Major were directed by me to
+return to Manipur. Before leaving Kendat, I sent on the Woon, with his
+family and 250 native British subjects, <i>en route</i> to Tamu, with a
+strong escort. The road had been much improved during my occupation of
+Kendat, and was now passable for lightly laden elephants.</p>
+<p>I left some Burmese officials at Kendat with orders to report
+regularly to the Woon, and collect taxes due, and having made all
+arrangements that I could for the peace of the country, I quitted it,
+with the remaining portion of my force, on January 14th, encamping at a
+place called M&eacute;jong. We reached Tamu on the 17th, where the Woon
+was well received.</p>
+<p>I had written to the Thoungdoot (Sumjok) Tsawbwa, asking him to come
+and see me, but he was nervous, and sent his Minister instead. The man
+arrived on the 19th, with a very civil letter from the Tsawbwa, making
+his submission. I explained to him that I should hold his master
+responsible for the good behaviour of his people, and sent him to pay
+his respects to the Woon, which he did. About this time I received some
+very complimentary telegrams from Government, thanking me for what I
+had done; these being followed by an autograph letter from the Viceroy,
+Lord Dufferin.</p>
+<p>Being completely worn out with the work and anxiety I had gone
+through, so much so, that I could not sleep without a dose of bromide
+of potassium, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb263" href="#pb263" name=
+"pb263">263</a>]</span>I set off for Manipur, to get a little rest, on
+the 20th of January, and reached it, by forced marches, on the 22nd.
+Mr. Morgan came with me, and my escort followed two days after. The men
+had kept their promise, and not one man had &ldquo;gone sick&rdquo; for
+a day, and they had always been ready for work; often, since the
+outbreak on the 3rd of January, living for days on rice fresh cut from
+the enemy&rsquo;s fields by the Manipuris.</p>
+<p>I left a strong guard of Manipuris in a stockade at Tamu as a help
+to the Woon, and let the Minister Bularam Singh and all the rest of the
+party return with me.</p>
+<p>Before leaving Tamu, I handed over one or two men, supposed to be
+rebels, to the Woon, and gave him authority to execute them, should he
+consider it necessary, as an example, saying, however, that he must, in
+that case shoot, hang, or decapitate, as we could not allow painful
+modes of putting to death.</p>
+<p>I found, on arrival at Manipur, that another detachment of the 4th
+B.I. had arrived, and I very soon found use for them.</p>
+<p>I had hoped to have had some much-needed rest, but on the 24th I
+received a letter from the Woon telling me that two of the leading
+rebels in the outbreak of the 3rd, who had fled towards Wuntho, had
+returned, and were leading about bands of brigands. I heard from
+another source that the men I had delivered into his hands had been
+released on paying heavy fines, and had joined the rebel leaders. The
+Woon had an ample force at his disposal, but, as I saw that another
+storm was brewing, I sent off the new detachment of the 4th, towards
+Tamu, on the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb264" href="#pb264" name=
+"pb264">264</a>]</span>26th, and followed myself (Mr. Morgan having
+preceded me) on the 28th; and on the 30th we marched into Tamu
+together.</p>
+<p>I met the poor old Woon ten miles within the Manipur frontier; he
+had evidently lost his nerve and had fled, the ill-treatment he had
+undergone, and the narrow escape from crucifixion, were too much for
+him. I at once sent him on to Manipur, with orders that he should be my
+guest, and marched on.</p>
+<p>As we crossed the frontier, the Burmese left the jungles where they
+had hidden from the dreaded dacoits, and returned with us to their
+villages. Tamu was quiet, the Manipuri guard had stood firm at their
+posts, and held the stockade intact, a work Manipuris are admirably
+fitted for, and thoroughly to be trusted with. My arrival seemed to
+quiet down the valley for many miles, indeed all the inhabitants for
+miles round were by the next day pursuing their ordinary avocations,
+and the only fear was from the dacoits.</p>
+<p>On January 31st, at about 6 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, I received
+a report that a party of the enemy had hoisted the white flag (the
+Burmese Royal Standard), and taken up their quarters at Pot-tha, a
+disaffected village twenty miles from Tamu. This was an opportunity not
+to be lost, and I prepared to strike a decisive blow. We left Tamu
+about midnight, the force consisting of myself and Mr. Morgan, fifty of
+the 4th B.I., seventy Manipuris, and fifty Kuki irregulars. We had to
+march in single file through the forest, carrying torches to light us,
+and a most picturesque sight it was, the long line winding in and out
+under the tall <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb265" href="#pb265" name=
+"pb265">265</a>]</span>trees, which the blaze of the torches lighted
+up, producing a very weird effect. We took with us guides from Tamu,
+and marched in deep silence, every now and then passing a village
+opening, though we generally avoided them, if possible.</p>
+<p>At last, just after daybreak, we heard the sound of a musket shot;
+our Shan guides said: &ldquo;This is the place,&rdquo; and instantly
+evaporated. I can use no other term; I saw them one moment, the next
+they had gone, where I know not. We went on, and after a hundred yards,
+passed fortifications just evacuated, and soon after entered the
+village, the enemy retiring before us without firing a shot; we rushed
+on, and searched the houses. I saw the white standard planted outside a
+large house on a platform; I ran up and seized it, close by was a tree
+called in Bengali, &ldquo;Poppeya,&rdquo; the papaw, I believe, of the
+West Indies, with a soft trunk. A minute after, while I was looking
+about to see if I could observe any of the enemy, a volley was fired,
+evidently intended for me, the royal standard in my hand making me a
+conspicuous mark. I was not struck (probably just at the moment I
+moved), but the tree was, and fell, cut in two by at least twenty
+musket balls.</p>
+<p>I then saw some of the enemy strongly posted, under a house, built
+like all in those parts on strong posts, affording excellent cover. I
+sprang down from the platform, calling to my scattered men to follow.
+One man was ahead of me, and was shot down mortally wounded; another
+minute, and I myself was struck by a shot on the left temple, and
+almost stunned. I was able to rise, but with the blood streaming down,
+not fit to pursue. I called to Mr. Morgan and asked <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb266" href="#pb266" name="pb266">266</a>]</span>him
+to head a party of the 4th B.I. and clear the village, which was done
+with great gallantry, the men, when they returned, greatly applauding
+Mr. Morgan&rsquo;s courage and dash. Having driven out the enemy who,
+we subsequently ascertained, lost seven killed and twenty-five wounded,
+we set fire to the village and 10,000 maunds of rice stored there,
+<i>i.e.</i>, about 360 tons, which, of course, we could not carry away,
+and marched back to Tamil which we reached about nightfall carrying our
+wounded with us. Besides myself, we had one mortally wounded, one
+severely and one slightly. I was able to march back. We took three
+prisoners and heard that the enemy, who did not stop till he had
+crossed the Chindwin, had a force of 400 to 500 men engaged, commanded
+by Boh Moung Schway L&eacute;.</p>
+<p>On February 6th, all the principal chiefs of the Kubo valley came in
+and made their formal submission to me, promising to remain quiet and
+obey the orders of the Tamu Myo Thugee, whom I appointed to administer
+the valley till further orders. Next day, I made them all go to the
+Pagoda, and swear allegiance to the British Government, the oath being
+most solemnly administered by the Phoongyees. I gave definite
+instructions to all, and urged them to keep the peace, and buy, sell
+and cultivate as usual.</p>
+<p>I proclaimed the passes into Manipur open to traders, which gave
+great satisfaction to all, and having satisfied myself that everything
+was quiet I set out for Manipur to consult Dr. Eteson, the Deputy
+Surgeon-General, who was passing through, about my wound. I arrived by
+forced marches on <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb267" href="#pb267"
+name="pb267">267</a>]</span>February 9th, and found that the sepoy
+mortally wounded on February 1st, had died on the 8th.</p>
+<p>Dr. Eteson urged me to go to England on sick leave, and I very
+reluctantly determined to follow his advice. But, before leaving, I had
+the satisfaction of seeing the whole of the Kubo valley in a state of
+profound peace for a month and a half. Provisions were no longer a
+difficulty. They were freely brought in, and the little luxuries that
+Hindoostani troops require over and above what can be bought on the
+spot, were taken down by traders. So great was the energy of the
+latter, that 2000 buffaloes were exported through Manipur to Cachar
+during this short period, and when I finally bade adieu to my friends
+at Tamu, Mr. Morgan and I both expected that war was at an end, and
+that perfect peace would prevail. It was not our fault that it did
+not.</p>
+<p>Let me here offer a tribute to one who stood by me nobly in the hour
+of need, but who, unfortunately, died of cholera at Kul&eacute;, after
+his return from well-earned leave in England. Morgan was a thoroughly
+good fellow all round, a devoted servant of the Bombay-Burmah
+Corporation, and one who put their affairs before everything. As gentle
+and kind as he was brave, he was a great favourite with the Burmese,
+and had evidently much influence with them. He was always in favour of
+mild measures, unless strong ones appeared absolutely necessary.</p>
+<p>While still in Burmah, I had sent in my despatches to General Sir H.
+Prendergast, K.C.B., who commanded the army of invasion, in which I
+strongly commended to his notice the admirable services of <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb268" href="#pb268" name="pb268">268</a>]</span>my
+escort, mentioning specially several men whom I thought particularly
+deserving of it, though all had done so well, and shown such devotion
+to duty and soldier-like spirit, that it was a difficult task to select
+any one in particular. General Prendergast forwarded my recommendation
+to the Commander-in-Chief, and it was a great satisfaction to me when I
+heard afterwards that Baluk Ram Chowby, then Subadar Major of his
+Regiment, had received the Order of British India, with the title of
+&ldquo;Bahadur,&rdquo; and that other decorations and promotions had
+been bestowed. The detachment of the gallant 4th Bengal Infantry, took
+with them, as trophies to their regiment, a standard they had captured,
+and also one of the sixteen guns taken at Kendat.</p>
+<p>I left the old Woon at Manipur, having strongly recommended him to
+the favour of Government. He stood by our people in a dark hour, and
+saved them from torture and death. He was of high family, and had
+fought against us in 1852. He had the air of a thorough gentleman, and
+was, with all his family, most amiable in conversation and
+demeanour.</p>
+<p>Before leaving, I paid one last visit to Kang-joop-kool and saw my
+child&rsquo;s grave,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e3024src" href=
+"#xd20e3024" name="xd20e3024src">1</a> and the peaceful <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb269" href="#pb269" name=
+"pb269">269</a>]</span>scenery and lovely views over the hills and the
+broad valley, thinking of the past and its many memories connected with
+the place. I paid my last visit to the Rajah, when I told him that I
+had strongly urged the restoration to him of his old possession, the
+Kubo valley. I visited all the familiar spots round the capital. I said
+good-bye to old Thangal, Bularam Singh, and all my old followers, and,
+on the 19th of March, bade adieu to Manipur, which I felt I had raised
+out of the mire of a bad reputation.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e3043width"><img src="images/p268.jpg" alt=
+"Arthur Johnstone&rsquo;s Grave." width="451" height="507">
+<p class="figureHead">Arthur Johnstone&rsquo;s Grave.</p>
+<p class="first">[<i>Page 268.</i></p>
+</div>
+<p>I left it as it had been of yore, a faithful and devoted, though
+humble, ally of the British Government to whom it had done transcendent
+service. Alas! little did I think of the fate that would befall it
+before a few short years had passed by.</p>
+<p>My escort turned out to salute me as I left the Residency gate, and
+I gave them an address, thanking them for their services. Then the
+Subadar Baluk Ram Chowby insisted on their accompanying me for some
+distance. When time for them to return, he halted his party, drew them
+in line by the side of the road, and presented arms, and as they did it
+they gave a loud shout of &ldquo;Colonel Sahib Bahad&ucirc;r ke
+jye,&rdquo; <i>i.e.</i> &ldquo;<span lang="fr">Vive Monsieur le Colonel
+Victorieux</span>;&rdquo; we have no equivalent for it in English. My
+heart was too heavy to say much; I said a few words, and we parted.</p>
+<p>As I crossed the summit of the Lai-metol range I <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb270" href="#pb270" name="pb270">270</a>]</span>gave
+a last look at the valley, and saw it no more.</p>
+<p>I passed through Shillong, where I was hospitably entertained by the
+Chief Commissioner, Mr. Ward, and on reaching Calcutta received a
+command to visit Lord Dufferin at Benares. He received me very kindly,
+and under his roof I spent a most enjoyable day. I left Bombay on the
+9th of April, and reached home on the 28th, thus practically finishing
+my active Indian career, after nearly twenty-eight years&rsquo;
+service. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb271" href="#pb271" name=
+"pb271">271</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e3024" href="#xd20e3024src" name="xd20e3024">1</a></span>
+&ldquo;The Senaputtee seemed determined to wipe away all signs of
+British connection with the State. Not only were the charred remains of
+the Residency still further demolished, but every building in the
+neighbourhood, and the very walls of the compound and garden were
+levelled, and the graves of British officers were desecrated. The
+Kang-joop-kool Sanatorium, twelve miles from the capital, built by Sir
+J. Johnstone, was burnt, and his child&rsquo;s grave dug
+up.&rdquo;&mdash;<i>Times</i>&rsquo; telegram, May 3,
+1891.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote">It appears by the official correspondence that the
+Senaputtee sent seven Manipur sepahis to open the child&rsquo;s grave,
+and scatter the remains, out of spite to Sir J. Johnstone, whom he knew
+had wished him to be banished, and who (on account of the
+Senaputtee&rsquo;s exceptionally bad character) would never admit him
+into the Residency. For this act the British military authorities had
+the sepahis flogged.&mdash;Nos. 1&ndash;11, East India (Manipur) Blue
+Books.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch30" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Chapter XXX.</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Conclusion.</h2>
+<h2 class="sub">The Events of 1890 and 1891.</h2>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">When I first began this book it was my intention to
+have given a connected account of the Palace Revolution of September
+1890, and that of 1891, against the British Government. Being probably
+the only living person in full possession of the whole facts connected
+with the startling events that then took place, and the circumstances
+that led up to them, and having, moreover, a strong conviction that it
+is best for all parties that the truth should be known, I felt that a
+fair and impartial statement could do no harm, and might act as a
+warning. Further reflection has led me to alter my determination, and
+to ask myself the question, &rdquo;<i lang="la">Cui bono?</i>&rdquo;
+The Government of India has shown no desire to make more disclosures
+than necessary, and it is not for me, a loyal old servant, to lift the
+veil.</p>
+<div class="blockquote">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;Let the dead past bury its dead.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p>However much, therefore, I may wish to see the right horse saddled,
+I shall for the present, at any rate, avoid criticism as far as
+possible, and confine myself to a few general remarks. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb272" href="#pb272" name="pb272">272</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Nothing that I can say will undo the past, and all that remains is
+to hope for the future.</p>
+<p>After I left Manipur fresh disturbances broke out in the Kubo
+valley, where I had left all peaceful, prosperous, and contented, and a
+considerable strain was put on the resources of Manipur. Had I been
+ordered to return I would gladly have done so, but my health was too
+bad to make it advisable for me to volunteer my services.<a class=
+"noteref" id="xd20e3091src" href="#xd20e3091" name="xd20e3091src">1</a>
+I regret that I did not, as I might in that case have again urged the
+claims of Manipur to have the Kubo valley restored to her, as she had a
+right to expect that it would be; substantial hopes having been on at
+least one occasion held out to her, and her many good services and
+constant loyalty entitling her to consideration.</p>
+<p>However, it was not to be; and in the summer of 1886 another
+misfortune befell her, in the death of Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh.
+Perhaps, like his father, Ghumbeer Singh, he was happy in the hour of
+his death, as he did not live to see the disgrace of his country, and
+the ingratitude of our Government to his family.</p>
+<p>Now was the grand opportunity for the Government and an able
+Political Agent to step in and make the many needful reforms, and
+introduce necessary changes, and instil a more modern spirit in keeping
+with the times, into the institutions of the country. Did we take
+advantage of it? Of course we did not; but, true to our happy-go-lucky
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb273" href="#pb273" name=
+"pb273">273</a>]</span>traditions, let one precious opportunity after
+another pass by unheeded. Year after year during my period of office
+had I struggled hard, and carried on a never-ending fight for influence
+and prestige, with the strong and capable old Chandra Kirtee Singh,
+gaining ground steadily; but realising that, while I worked, the full
+advantage would be reaped by that one of my successors who might chance
+to be in office when my old friend closed his eventful life. At such a
+time, in addition to the result of my labours, a weaker occupant of the
+throne would afford many opportunities such as were not vouchsafed to
+me, and now the time had arrived when we might have worked unimpeded
+for the good of all classes.</p>
+<p>Soor Chandra Singh, the former Jubraj, or heir apparent, succeeded
+his father, a good, amiable man, with plenty of ability, but very weak.
+He was loyal to the British Government, and had on several occasions
+given strong proof of it, and he was much respected by his own people.
+Had he been taken in hand properly all would have been well, but the
+Government of India seems never to have realised that excessive care
+and caution were necessary. The records of the past plainly showed that
+the appointment of a Political Agent was always a difficult one to fill
+satisfactorily, but no pains seem to have been at any time taken to
+find a suitable man; if one happened to be appointed, it was a matter
+of chance, and the post seems generally to have been put up to a kind
+of Dutch auction. On one occasion I believe that an officer, who was at
+the time doing well, and liked the place, was taken <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb274" href="#pb274" name=
+"pb274">274</a>]</span>away, and another, who did not wish to go, sent
+up, to die within a month of a long-standing complaint. For all this,
+of course the Foreign Office must be held responsible, as it had a long
+traditional knowledge of Manipur; and though its powers were delegated
+to the Chief Commissioner of Assam, it should have ascertained that
+that officer was capable of making a good selection, and had an officer
+under him fit for the appointment. The work may not have been of a
+nature requiring the very highest class of intellect, but it certainly
+did require a rather rare combination of qualities, together with one
+indispensable to make a good officer, namely, a real love for the work,
+the country, and the people. My immediate successor had these latter
+qualities, but he died of wounds received within six weeks of my
+leaving.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e3109src" href="#xd20e3109" name=
+"xd20e3109src">2</a></p>
+<p>It is to be regretted, also, that the Government of India acts so
+much on the principle that the private claims of some of its servants
+should be considered before the claims of the State generally, and the
+people over whom they are put, in particular. It seems to be thought
+that the great object, in many cases, is to secure a certain amount of
+pay to an individual, quite irrespective of his qualifications, rather
+than to seek out an officer in every way competent to administer a
+great province, and satisfy the requirements of its people. I say this
+especially with reference to Assam. Few provinces of India require more
+special qualities in its ruler, containing, as it does, many races of
+different grades of civilisation; the situation being further
+complicated by the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb275" href="#pb275"
+name="pb275">275</a>]</span>presence of a large European population of
+tea-planters. These, by their energy and the judicious application of a
+large amount of capital, have raised it to a great pitch of prosperity,
+and they naturally require to be dealt with in a different way to their
+less civilised native fellow-subjects.</p>
+<p>An officer may be an admirable accountant, or very well able to
+decide between two litigants, or, may be, to look after stamps and
+stationery; but without special administrative experience, or those
+abilities which enable a genius to grasp any subject he takes up, he
+cannot be considered fit to be trusted with the government of a great
+and flourishing province. His claims as regards pay should not be
+allowed to weigh at all with the Government of India; it is unjust to
+the people, and would be cheaper to give an enhanced pension than ruin
+a province. Yet it cannot be denied that the considerations I have
+referred to, do prevail, and that the Manipur disaster was, in a great
+measure, due to the system, and that with proper care it could never
+have happened.</p>
+<p>When I was in Manipur no European could enter the state without
+obtaining the permission of the Durbar through the Political Agent, and
+the Maharajah, very wisely, did his utmost to discourage such visitors,
+unless they were friends of the latter. Orchid collectors, and such
+like, were rigorously excluded, wisely, again I say, considering the
+havoc wrought by selfish traders with these lovely denizens of the
+forests of Manipur and Burmah, and when the Burmese war broke out, very
+few were those of our countrymen who had visited the interesting little
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb276" href="#pb276" name=
+"pb276">276</a>]</span>state. As for myself I quite sympathised with
+the Maharajah and I even said a word on behalf of the Sungai (swamp
+deer) peculiar to Manipur and Burmah, and advised him to preserve it
+strictly. I fear it must be extinct in Manipur by this time. The
+Burmese war changed all this; troops poured through the country, and
+European officers were constantly passing to and fro, much to the
+annoyance of the Durbar. Of course, a stay-at-home Englishman will
+hardly understand this, but to anyone knowing natives of India well, it
+is self-evident, a European cannot go through a state like Manipur
+where suspicion reigns rampant, and where people are wedded to their
+own peculiar ways, without causing a great deal of trouble. All sorts
+of things have to be provided for him, and though he pays liberally,
+some one suffers. The presence of one or two Europeans constantly
+moving about would no doubt in itself be a source of annoyance to the
+high officials of Manipur, who would always suspect them of making
+enquiries with a view to an unfavourable report to Government. All
+natives of India are suspicious, and this remark applies with tenfold
+force to Manipuris.</p>
+<p>It cannot, I fear, be denied, that as a race we are a little
+careless of the feelings of others. It is possibly due in a great
+measure to our insularity; but, whatever be the cause, it is an
+undesirable quality to possess. With a regiment of Native Infantry
+stationed at Langthabal to support our authority, our prestige ought to
+have rapidly increased; apparently the reverse was the case, and from
+time to time incidents occurred, which indicated how events were
+drifting. On one occasion some sepoys of the Political <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb277" href="#pb277" name=
+"pb277">277</a>]</span>Agent&rsquo;s escort were hustled and beaten by
+some Manipuris at a public festival, and on another the man carrying
+the Government mail bag between Imphal and Langthabal, was stopped and
+robbed of the mails. Everything seemed to show that our position was
+not what it had been. In former days such things could not have
+happened.</p>
+<p>Kotwal Koireng had always been a bad character, and had for years
+been under a cloud. Had I remained in Manipur I should have turned him
+out when the Maharajah his father died, and reported the matter to
+Government. He was allowed to remain, and proved the ruin of the state.
+His blood-thirsty nature soon showed itself, and he half-roasted two
+men after a most cruel flogging, the Maharajah was asked to turn him
+out of the state, and would probably have consented, but just at the
+time a European sergeant shot a cow, the sacred animal of the Hindoos,
+an outrage far exceeding any that our imagination can paint, and the
+Rajah in his wrath flatly refused to punish his brother, while such a
+fearful crime as cow killing, was allowed to pass unnoticed. Of course
+the last was an untoward event, that should never have occurred. We
+ought not to allow uncultured Europeans likely to be careless of native
+feeling and susceptibilities to enter a state so full of prejudice and
+suspicion as Manipur.</p>
+<p>Thus events followed one another in rapid succession, signs every
+now and then appearing which showed that all was not as quiet as it
+seemed. I heard from time to time things that made me uneasy, as I
+gathered that Kotwal Koireng, now become Senaputtee or
+Commander-in-Chief, had much power <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb278"
+href="#pb278" name="pb278">278</a>]</span>and influence, and I felt
+sure that he would soon make an attempt to oust his brother, the
+Maharajah.</p>
+<p>At last the attempt was made. In September, 1890, the Maharajah Soor
+Chandra Singh was attacked in his palace at night, and driven out. He
+fled to Cachar and having petitioned the Government of India for his
+restoration, proceeded to Calcutta. The case was a simple one, a palace
+revolution had occurred and our nominee whose succession and whose
+throne we had guaranteed, had been deposed. The course to be adopted by
+Government was as clear as the day, Soor Chandra Singh should have been
+restored at once and the usurper severely punished for insulting the
+majesty of the British Government. Nothing of the kind was done. It was
+decided, on what grounds I know not, to break our pledged word; the
+Maharajah was to be exiled with a pittance for his support; his stupid
+boorish brother who had been set up as puppet by the Senaputtee was to
+be Rajah; while the evil genius of Manipur, the treacherous Senaputtee,
+was to be exiled. The Government of India then ordered the Chief
+Commissioner of Assam to proceed to Manipur and carry out their
+decision, including the Senaputtee&rsquo;s arrest.</p>
+<p>It is difficult to say which showed the greatest want of wisdom, the
+Government in issuing such an order, or the Chief Commissioner in
+accepting such a mission, quite derogatory to one of such high rank. We
+all know how it ended. The less said about it the better, it reflects
+no credit on us.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e3139src" href="#xd20e3139"
+name="xd20e3139src">3</a> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb279" href=
+"#pb279" name="pb279">279</a>]</span></p>
+<p>With one or two things, however, I am concerned, and one of these is
+the sentence on Thangal Major, or General as he was called; in the
+correspondence usually ignorantly referred to, as &ldquo;The Thangal
+General,&rdquo; a misnomer, Thangal being a name and not a title. This
+old man seventy-four years of age had long almost retired into private
+life. He was a devoted follower of Soor Chandra Singh, and hated the
+Senaputtee whose evil influence he always feared would wreck Manipur.
+This probably made the latter recall him to public life, so as to keep
+him under his eye; anyhow, he was by force of circumstances obliged,
+however unwillingly, to act as a loyal subject of his own <i>de
+facto</i> chief.</p>
+<p>I have said so much about the old man, that his character will be
+well understood. He was a strong, able, unscrupulous man, not likely to
+stick at trifles, and, like most Asiatics of his type, capable of
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb280" href="#pb280" name=
+"pb280">280</a>]</span>anything. This does not, however, mean that he
+was worse than his neighbours, our characters are made by our
+surroundings, and in Manipur the surroundings are not of an elevating
+nature. Thangal was in many ways kind hearted, in others ruthless, and
+for the moment cruel, his wrath flared up and, except when kept aglow
+for policy&rsquo;s sake, soon burned itself out.</p>
+<p>When first I heard of the outbreak I made two predictions, both
+proved to be true. One of these was that, whoever was guilty, Thangal
+Major would be accused. I never did think him guilty by premeditation,
+but I knew that, as for so long a time he was the strong head of the
+executive, he was not loved, and that to save the Senaputtee, whom I of
+course at once pitched upon as the &rdquo;<i lang="la">fons et
+origo</i>&rdquo; of the rebellion, and who like all of the blood royal
+was looked upon as semi-divine, he would be accused. I read the
+evidence published, which I can quite understand appeared conclusive to
+the tribunal before which he was tried; reading between the lines,
+however, with a thorough knowledge of Manipur as I was able to do, it
+gave me quite a different impression. Knowing the old man so intimately
+as I did, his way of talking and his way of acting, I am convinced that
+he was in no way a willing accessory to the rebellion, that he in no
+way connived at the invitation to our officers to enter the palace at
+night, and further that he never suggested or consented to their
+murder! The whole proceeding was so totally opposed to his policy that
+he would never have sanctioned such an act of folly, to say the least.
+The Senaputtee richly deserved all he got and more. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb281" href="#pb281" name="pb281">281</a>]</span>An
+unscrupulous and selfish butcher by nature he played his cards badly
+and when he lost, determined to involve his whole family and loyal
+dependents in the ruin which his own insensate folly had brought on
+him. I quite acknowledge old Thangal&rsquo;s many faults, but I also
+remember his good qualities, and shall ever regret that he came to such
+an untimely end.</p>
+<p>As regards the disposition of the throne I have a word to say.
+Recognising as I do the necessity of maintaining the firmness of our
+rule and prestige to the utmost, a rule that is of incalculable benefit
+to millions, I quite approved of a heavy punishment being exacted as a
+terrible warning to all time, when we re-conquered Manipur. It cannot
+be denied that we showed unseemly want of nerve when the news of the
+disaster arrived. There was no necessity to place Assam under a
+military ruler, nor was there any need for such a formidable muster of
+troops, at a vast expenditure of money and suffering, to retrieve a
+disaster brought about by such an extraordinary want of courage, nerve,
+forethought and common-sense.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e3168src" href=
+"#xd20e3168" name="xd20e3168src">4</a> Our position in Manipur had
+never been a dangerous one, and even after the murder of the Chief
+Commissioner&rsquo;s party the troops in the Residency might easily
+have held their own till daybreak, when all opposition <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb282" href="#pb282" name=
+"pb282">282</a>]</span>would have collapsed, and the rebels would have
+fled, leaving our people masters of the situation.</p>
+<p>I have expressed my opinion as to the mistake we made in not
+restoring the Rajah <i>before</i> the outbreak of March, and now I ask
+the question, why, after the rebellion was put down, we did not do our
+best to repair the evil by restoring Soor Chandra Singh to his own? He,
+or his infant son, might have been restored, and have been kept in a
+state of tutelage as long as necessary, and good government would have
+been secured and our pledge to Chandra Kirtee Singh have been
+maintained intact. Instead of this, an obscure child, a descendant not
+of Ghumbeer Singh, but of Nur Singh, was selected, and the old line cut
+off from the succession, and yet three generations had been faithful to
+us. Ghumbeer Singh, Chandra Kirtee Singh, and Soor Chandra Singh all
+served us loyally, and yet we suffered the last to die of a broken
+heart in exile. Well might he exclaim, &ldquo;And is this the reward
+for so many years&rsquo; service!&rdquo; For my part I say
+emphatically, <i>let us beware, we have not heard the last of
+Manipur</i>!</p>
+<p>My sense of right and justice make me record facts as they strike
+me, and yet I cannot help acknowledging as I do so, that the Government
+of India is the best government in the world. When has India been so
+governed, and what country in Europe has such an able and just
+administration? Surrounded by difficulties, material, financial and
+political, badgered by ignorant members of the House of Commons, for
+ever asking foolish questions and moving foolish resolutions; the
+stately bureaucracy plods steadily on with one object in view, the
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb283" href="#pb283" name=
+"pb283">283</a>]</span>good of the people. If at times it makes
+mistakes, who does not? The greatest General is he who makes fewest
+mistakes, and, judged by this standard alone, the Government of India
+has the first rank among governing bodies. It has, however, a title to
+honour which no one can assail. It is the only instance in history of a
+body of foreigners who govern an Empire, not for their own benefit, but
+for the benefit of the races committed by Providence to their charge.
+May Providence long watch over it! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb284"
+href="#pb284" name="pb284">284</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e3091" href="#xd20e3091src" name="xd20e3091">1</a></span>
+&ldquo;Oh! for a moment of Colonel Johnstone&rsquo;s presence at such a
+crisis,&rdquo; wrote a British official from Manipur, to the
+<i>Pioneer</i>, in 1891. &ldquo;One strong word with the ominous
+raising of the forefinger, would have paralyzed the treacherous rebel
+Koireng (Senaputtee) from perpetrating this
+outrage.&rdquo;&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e3109" href="#xd20e3109src" name="xd20e3109">2</a></span> Major
+Trotter. He received wounds from an ambuscade, and died of their
+effects, July, 1886.&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e3139" href="#xd20e3139src" name="xd20e3139">3</a></span>
+&ldquo;The general history of the Manipur incident,&rdquo; wrote the
+<i>Times</i> in a leading article, Aug. 14, 1891, &ldquo;must inspire
+mingled feelings in the breasts of most Englishmen. The policy in which
+it originated, cannot be said to reflect credit on the Government of
+India, while the actual explosion itself was precipitated by a series
+of blunders which have never been explained. There seems to be little
+doubt that had the Government of India made up its mind promptly on the
+merits of the dynastic quarrel between the dethroned Maharajah and his
+brothers, the Senaputtee would hardly have been able to commit the
+crimes which have cost him his life. But for five months the Government
+of India seemed to accept the revolution accomplished last September in
+the palace of Manipur. That revolution was notoriously the work of the
+Senaputtee, although he chose, for his own reasons, to place one of his
+brothers on the throne. The Government did not indeed assent to the
+change, but their local representative does not appear to have taken
+marked steps to express his disapproval. He is said to have tolerated
+and condoned it to this extent, that he kept up friendly relations with
+the new ruler as with the old. On the deplorable mistakes which led up
+to the massacre, and made it possible, it is unnecessary to dwell. They
+are still unaccounted for, and so many of the chief actors in that
+fatal business have perished, that it is more than doubtful whether we
+shall ever know exactly to whom they severally were
+due.&rdquo;&mdash;<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e3168" href="#xd20e3168src" name="xd20e3168">4</a></span> Three
+columns (one alone numbering 1000 strong), were marched at once on
+Imphal, which was found deserted. The Regent was the last of the
+princes who fled. He released the surviving English prisoner, and sent
+him to the British camp to ask for an armistice; but this was refused
+until he delivered up the Englishmen already dead. The Manipuris, then
+expecting no mercy, opposed the march of the troops.&mdash;<span class=
+"sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="back">
+<div id="index" class="div1 index"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Index.</h2>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">A</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Abors, <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a></p>
+<p>Allen, Mr., <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a></p>
+<p>Almorah, <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a></p>
+<p>Alongpra, <a href="#pb82" class="pageref">82</a></p>
+<p>Angamis, <a href="#pb9" class="pageref">9</a>, <a href="#pb27"
+class="pageref">27</a>, <a href="#pb148" class="pageref">148</a></p>
+<p>Angao Senna, <a href="#pb113" class="pageref">113</a></p>
+<p>Angelo, Captain, <a href="#pb208" class="pageref">208</a></p>
+<p>Arracan, <a href="#pb82" class="pageref">82</a></p>
+<p>Assam, <a href="#pb3" class="pageref">3</a>, <a href="#pb56" class=
+"pageref">56</a>, <a href="#pb274" class="pageref">274</a></p>
+<p>Ava, <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">B</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Badgley, Colonel, <a href="#pb18" class=
+"pageref">18</a>, <a href="#pb211" class="pageref">211</a></p>
+<p>Barrett, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb164" class="pageref">164</a></p>
+<p>Bayley, Sir Steuart, <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a>,
+<a href="#pb136" class="pageref">136</a>, <a href="#pb177" class=
+"pageref">177</a>&ndash;180</p>
+<p>Bernard, Sir C. and Lady, <a href="#pb1" class="pageref">1</a></p>
+<p>Biggs, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb36" class="pageref">36</a></p>
+<p>Boileau, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb173" class="pageref">173</a></p>
+<p>Bombay-Burmah Corporation, <a href="#pb244" class=
+"pageref">244</a></p>
+<p>Bretto, <a href="#pb249" class="pageref">249</a></p>
+<p>Boyd, Major, <a href="#pb61" class="pageref">61</a></p>
+<p>Boyle, Mr., <a href="#pb3" class="pageref">3</a></p>
+<p>Brown, Dr., <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a></p>
+<p>Buddhism, <a href="#pb83" class="pageref">83</a></p>
+<p>Bularam Singh, <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a></p>
+<p>Burmah, <a href="#pb80" class="pageref">80</a>, <a href="#pb240"
+class="pageref">240</a></p>
+<p>Burrail Range <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>, <a href=
+"#pb24" class="pageref">24</a></p>
+<p>Burney, Colonel, <a href="#pb86" class="pageref">86</a></p>
+<p>Burrhampooter, R., <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a>, <a href=
+"#pb100" class="pageref">100</a></p>
+<p>Burton, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a></p>
+<p>Butler, Captain, <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>, <a href=
+"#pb25" class="pageref">25</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">C</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Cacharees, <a href="#pb24" class="pageref">24</a></p>
+<p>Cachar, <a href="#pb124" class="pageref">124</a>, <a href="#pb149"
+class="pageref">149</a>, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a></p>
+<p>Calcutta, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a>, <a href="#pb127"
+class="pageref">127</a></p>
+<p>Campbell, Sir G., <a href="#pb2" class="pageref">2</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash;, Dr., <a href="#pb166" class="pageref">166</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash;, Major, <a href="#pb258" class="pageref">258</a></p>
+<p>Carnegy, Mr., <a href="#pb59" class="pageref">59</a>, <a href=
+"#pb93" class="pageref">93</a>, <a href="#pb102" class=
+"pageref">102</a></p>
+<p>Cawley, Mr., <a href="#pb149" class="pageref">149</a>, <a href=
+"#pb157" class="pageref">157</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash;, Mrs., <a href="#pb157" class="pageref">157</a></p>
+<p>Chandra Kirtee Singh, <a href="#pb69" class="pageref">69</a>,
+<a href="#pb74" class="pageref">74</a>, <a href="#pb89" class=
+"pageref">89</a></p>
+<p>China, <a href="#pb89" class="pageref">89</a></p>
+<p>Chindwin, R., <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a>, <a href=
+"#pb100" class="pageref">100</a>, <a href="#pb250" class=
+"pageref">250</a>&ndash;260</p>
+<p>Chomjet, Rajah, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a></p>
+<p>Cock, Major, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a></p>
+<p>Coombs, Mr., <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a></p>
+<p>Cooper, Mr., <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a></p>
+<p>Cuttack, <a href="#pb1" class="pageref">1</a>, <a href="#pb44"
+class="pageref">44</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">D</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Dalton, General, <a href="#pb43" class=
+"pageref">43</a></p>
+<p>Damant, Mr., <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>, <a href=
+"#pb147" class="pageref">147</a>, <a href="#pb161" class=
+"pageref">161</a></p>
+<p>Debindro, <a href="#pb89" class="pageref">89</a></p>
+<p>Delhi Assembly, <a href="#pb54" class="pageref">54</a></p>
+<p>Deo Panee, <a href="#pb7" class="pageref">7</a></p>
+<p>De Renzy, Dr., <a href="#pb168" class="pageref">168</a></p>
+<p>Dimapur, <a href="#pb8" class="pageref">8</a>, <a href="#pb45"
+class="pageref">45</a></p>
+<p>Diphoo Panee, <a href="#pb10" class="pageref">10</a></p>
+<p>Dufferin, Earl of, <a href="#pb262" class=
+"pageref">262</a>&ndash;270</p>
+<p>Dun, Captain, <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a>, <a href=
+"#pb222" class="pageref">222</a></p>
+<p>Dunseree, R., <a href="#pb9" class="pageref">9</a></p>
+<p>Durand, Colonel, <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">E</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Eerung, <a href="#pb98" class="pageref">98</a></p>
+<p>Elliott, Sir C., <a href="#pb201" class="pageref">201</a>, <a href=
+"#pb207" class="pageref">207</a>, <a href="#pb215" class=
+"pageref">215</a>, <a href="#pb223" class="pageref">223</a></p>
+<p>England, <a href="#pb1" class="pageref">1</a>, <a href="#pb206"
+class="pageref">206</a></p>
+<p>Eteson, Dr., <a href="#pb266" class="pageref">266</a></p>
+<p>Evans, Major, <a href="#pb162" class="pageref">162</a> <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb285" href="#pb285" name="pb285">285</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">E</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Forbes, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb172" class=
+"pageref">172</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">G</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Ganges R., <a href="#pb100" class=
+"pageref">100</a></p>
+<p>Ghumbeer Singh, <a href="#pb86" class="pageref">86</a>, <a href=
+"#pb139" class="pageref">139</a></p>
+<p>Goalundo, <a href="#pb2" class="pageref">2</a>, <a href="#pb214"
+class="pageref">214</a></p>
+<p>Golaghat, <a href="#pb3" class="pageref">3</a>, <a href="#pb177"
+class="pageref">177</a></p>
+<p>Gordon, Captain, <a href="#pb36" class="pageref">36</a>, <a href=
+"#pb89" class="pageref">89</a>, <a href="#pb120" class=
+"pageref">120</a></p>
+<p>Gowhatty, <a href="#pb2" class="pageref">2</a>, <a href="#pb51"
+class="pageref">51</a></p>
+<p>Grange, Mr., <a href="#pb34" class="pageref">34</a></p>
+<p>Grant, Captain, <a href="#pb85" class="pageref">85</a></p>
+<p>Guthrie, Colonel, <a href="#pb63" class="pageref">63</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">H</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Henderson, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb169" class=
+"pageref">169</a></p>
+<p>Himalayas, <a href="#pb14" class="pageref">14</a>, <a href="#pb55"
+class="pageref">55</a></p>
+<p>Hinde, Mr., <a href="#pb155" class="pageref">155</a>&ndash;158</p>
+<p>Hurreo Jan, <a href="#pb19" class="pageref">19</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">I</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Indian-Colonial Exhibition, <a href="#pb108" class=
+"pageref">108</a></p>
+<p>Imphal, <a href="#pb65" class="pageref">65</a>, <a href="#pb121"
+class="pageref">121</a></p>
+<p>Irrawaddy R., <a href="#pb252" class="pageref">252</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">J</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Jenkins, Captain, <a href="#pb22" class=
+"pageref">22</a></p>
+<p>Johnstone, Sir James&rsquo;s wife, <a href="#pb2" class=
+"pageref">2</a>, <a href="#pb48" class="pageref">48</a>, <a href=
+"#pb151" class="pageref">151</a>, <a href="#pb216" class=
+"pageref">216</a></p>
+<p>Johnstone, Sir James&rsquo;s children, <a href="#pb48" class=
+"pageref">48</a>, <a href="#pb133" class="pageref">133</a>, <a href=
+"#pb166" class="pageref">166</a></p>
+<p>Joobraj (Soor Chandra Singh), <a href="#pb69" class=
+"pageref">69</a>, <a href="#pb152" class="pageref">152</a></p>
+<p>Juggernaut, Feast of, <a href="#pb144" class="pageref">144</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">K</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Keatinge, General, <a href="#pb57" class=
+"pageref">57</a></p>
+<p>Kendat, <a href="#pb249" class="pageref">249</a>, <a href="#pb250"
+class="pageref">250</a></p>
+<p>Kenoma, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a></p>
+<p>Keonjhur, <a href="#pb130" class="pageref">130</a></p>
+<p>Khyahs, <a href="#pb15" class="pageref">15</a></p>
+<p>Kohima, <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>, <a href="#pb23"
+class="pageref">23</a>, <a href="#pb35" class="pageref">35</a>,
+<a href="#pb149" class="pageref">149</a></p>
+<p>Kongal Tannah, <a href="#pb101" class="pageref">101</a>, <a href=
+"#pb210" class="pageref">210</a></p>
+<p>Kong-hoop-kool, <a href="#pb109" class="pageref">109</a>, <a href=
+"#pb166" class="pageref">166</a>, <a href="#pb268" class=
+"pageref">268</a></p>
+<p>Koireng Singh (Senaputtee), <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a>,
+<a href="#pb112" class="pageref">112</a>, <a href="#pb152" class=
+"pageref">152</a>, <a href="#pb280" class="pageref">280</a></p>
+<p>Kola Ranee, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a></p>
+<p>Konoma, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>, <a href="#pb157"
+class="pageref">157</a>&ndash;164, <a href="#pb170" class=
+"pageref">170</a></p>
+<p>Kooak Kaithel (crow bazaar), <a href="#pb96" class=
+"pageref">96</a></p>
+<p>Kubo valley, <a href="#pb79" class="pageref">79</a>, <a href="#pb86"
+class="pageref">86</a>, <a href="#pb101" class="pageref">101</a>,
+<a href="#pb200" class="pageref">200</a>, <a href="#pb212" class=
+"pageref">212</a>, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a>, <a href=
+"#pb264" class="pageref">264</a></p>
+<p>Kuki tribe, <a href="#pb25" class="pageref">25</a>, <a href="#pb164"
+class="pageref">164</a>, <a href="#pb166" class="pageref">166</a>,
+<a href="#pb180" class="pageref">180</a>, <a href="#pb196" class=
+"pageref">196</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">L</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Langthabal, <a href="#pb88" class="pageref">88</a>,
+<a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a></p>
+<p>Logtak Lake, <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a>, <a href=
+"#pb205" class="pageref">205</a></p>
+<p>Lumphal, <a href="#pb239" class="pageref">239</a></p>
+<p>Lushais, <a href="#pb93" class="pageref">93</a>, <a href="#pb192"
+class="pageref">192</a></p>
+<p>Lyall, Sir A., <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a></p>
+<p>Lytton, Lord, <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">M</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Macgregor, Colonel, <a href="#pb174" class=
+"pageref">174</a></p>
+<p>Mahometans, <a href="#pb84" class="pageref">84</a>, <a href="#pb221"
+class="pageref">221</a></p>
+<p>Mansel, Colonel, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a></p>
+<p>Mao Tannah, <a href="#pb149" class="pageref">149</a>, <a href=
+"#pb198" class="pageref">198</a>, <a href="#pb242" class=
+"pageref">242</a></p>
+<p>McCulloch, Colonel, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a>, <a href=
+"#pb60" class="pageref">60</a>, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>,
+<a href="#pb89" class="pageref">89</a></p>
+<p>Medlicotts, <a href="#pb41" class="pageref">41</a></p>
+<p>Michell, Colonel, <a href="#pb192" class="pageref">192</a></p>
+<p>Mingin, <a href="#pb259" class="pageref">259</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash;, Woon of, <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a>,
+<a href="#pb249" class="pageref">249</a></p>
+<p>Moncur, Mr., <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a></p>
+<p>Mozuma, <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a>, <a href="#pb42"
+class="pageref">42</a>, <a href="#pb93" class="pageref">93</a>,
+<a href="#pb176" class="pageref">176</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">N</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Nambor Forest, <a href="#pb6" class=
+"pageref">6</a></p>
+<p>Nation, General, <a href="#pb162" class="pageref">162</a></p>
+<p>Needham, Mr., <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a>, <a href=
+"#pb48" class="pageref">48</a></p>
+<p>Nichu Guard, <a href="#pb16" class="pageref">16</a></p>
+<p>Nigriting, <a href="#pb3" class="pageref">3</a></p>
+<p>Noonpong, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a></p>
+<p>Nowkattu, <a href="#pb9" class="pageref">9</a>, <a href="#pb42"
+class="pageref">42</a></p>
+<p>Nur Singh, Rajah, <a href="#pb89" class="pageref">89</a>, <a href=
+"#pb282" class="pageref">282</a></p>
+<p>Nuttall, Colonel, <a href="#pb169" class="pageref">169</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">O</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">O&rsquo;Brien, Dr., <a href="#pb178" class=
+"pageref">178</a></p>
+<p>Ogle, Mr., <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a></p>
+<p>Oldham, Mr., <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">P</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Pegu, <a href="#pb82" class="pageref">82</a></p>
+<p>Pemberton, <span class="corr" id="xd20e4142" title=
+"Source: Lieuteuant">Lieutenant</span>, <a href="#pb85" class=
+"pageref">85</a></p>
+<p>Phayre, Mr., <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a>&ndash;214</p>
+<p>Phoiching, <a href="#pb66" class="pageref">66</a></p>
+<p>Pong, <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a></p>
+<p>Prendergast, General, <a href="#pb267" class="pageref">267</a></p>
+<p>Pullel, <a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">Q</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Quinton, Mr., <a href="#pb5" class="pageref">5</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">R</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Raban, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb169" class=
+"pageref">169</a>, <a href="#pb198" class="pageref">198</a></p>
+<p>Ramsey, Sir H., <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a> <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb286" href="#pb286" name="pb286">286</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Ram Singh, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a></p>
+<p>Roberts, Mr., <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a></p>
+<p>Ridgeway, Major, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a>, <a href=
+"#pb173" class="pageref">173</a></p>
+<p>Ruckstuhl, Mr., <a href="#pb257" class="pageref">257</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">S</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"><span class="corr" id="xd20e4226" title=
+"Source: Samagooting">Samagudting</span>, <a href="#pb12" class=
+"pageref">12</a>, <a href="#pb41" class="pageref">41</a>, <a href=
+"#pb177" class="pageref">177</a></p>
+<p>Samoo Singh, <a href="#pb66" class="pageref">66</a></p>
+<p>Scott, David, <a href="#pb85" class="pageref">85</a></p>
+<p>Sena Kaithel (Golden bazaar), <a href="#pb134" class=
+"pageref">134</a></p>
+<p>Shillong, <a href="#pb58" class="pageref">58</a>, <a href="#pb270"
+class="pageref">270</a></p>
+<p>Sudya, <a href="#pb122" class="pageref">122</a></p>
+<p>Sumjok, <a href="#pb87" class="pageref">87</a>, <a href="#pb200"
+class="pageref">200</a>, <a href="#pb207" class="pageref">207</a></p>
+<p>Suktis, <a href="#pb129" class="pageref">129</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">T</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Tangul, Major, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>,
+<a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>, <a href="#pb236" class=
+"pageref">236</a></p>
+<p>Tamu, <a href="#pb79" class="pageref">79</a>, <a href="#pb246"
+class="pageref">246</a>, <a href="#pb263" class="pageref">263</a></p>
+<p>Thobal, <a href="#pb210" class="pageref">210</a></p>
+<p>Thompson, Sir Rivers, <a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a></p>
+<p>Trotter, Major, <a href="#pb274" class="pageref">274</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">V</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Verelst, Governor, <a href="#pb85" class=
+"pageref">85</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">W</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Walker, Major, <a href="#pb158" class=
+"pageref">158</a></p>
+<p>Wankai Rakpar, <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a>, <a href=
+"#pb281" class="pageref">281</a></p>
+<p>Ward, Mr., <a href="#pb240" class="pageref">240</a>, <a href=
+"#pb270" class="pageref">270</a></p>
+<p>Watt, Dr., <a href="#pb210" class="pageref">210</a></p>
+<p>Wilcox, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a></p>
+<p>Williamson, Major, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a></p>
+<p>Woodthorpe, Colonel, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a></p>
+<p>Wynne, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">Y</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Yoma Mountains, <a href="#pb102" class=
+"pageref">102</a>, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb287" href="#pb287" name=
+"pb287">287</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first xd20e118">London:<br>
+Printed by William Clowes and Sons, Limited,<br>
+Stamford Street and Charing Cross.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="transcribernote">
+<h2 class="main">Colophon</h2>
+<h3 class="main">Availability</h3>
+<p class="first">This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no
+cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give
+it away or re-use it under the terms of the <a class="exlink xd20e41"
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+online at <a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href=
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+<p>This ebook has been prepared from <a class="exlink xd20e41" title=
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+"http://www.archive.org/details/myexperiencesin00johngoog">1</a>,
+<a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href=
+"http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924024089744">2,</a> <a class=
+"exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href=
+"http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924098843083">3).</a></p>
+<p>Related Library of Congress catalog page: <a class="catlink" href=
+"http://lccn.loc.gov/45041575">45041575</a>.</p>
+<p>Related Open Library catalog page (for source): <a class="catlink"
+href="http://openlibrary.org/books/OL7203316M">OL7203316M</a>.</p>
+<p>Related Open Library catalog page (for work): <a class="catlink"
+href="http://openlibrary.org/works/OL6050142W">OL6050142W</a>.</p>
+<p>Related WorldCat catalog page: <a class="catlink" href=
+"http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/3874583">3874583</a>.</p>
+<h3 class="main">Encoding</h3>
+<p class="first"></p>
+<h3 class="main">Revision History</h3>
+<ul>
+<li>2011-10-21 Started.</li>
+</ul>
+<h3 class="main">External References</h3>
+<p>This Project Gutenberg eBook contains external references. These
+links may not work for you.</p>
+<h3 class="main">Corrections</h3>
+<p>The following corrections have been applied to the text:</p>
+<table class="correctiontable" summary=
+"Overview of corrections applied to the text.">
+<tr>
+<th>Page</th>
+<th>Source</th>
+<th>Correction</th>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e705">5</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Senaputty</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Senaputtee</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e840">18</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Hindustani</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Hindoostani</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e843">18</a>,
+<a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2231">175</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">)</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">[<i>Deleted</i>]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e869">21</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">hoo-cook</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">hoolook</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e885">22</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Nills</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Hills</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e917">24</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">nighbourhood</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">neighbourhood</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e939">N.A.</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Kohimas</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Kohima</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e984">29</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">hill tribes</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">hill-tribes</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1020">33</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">abitrarily</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">arbitrarily</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1040">35</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">remaind</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">remained</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1043">35</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">out</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">our</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1046">35</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">withrew</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">withdrew</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1078">38</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">advisibility</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">advisability</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1172">49</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Vauda</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Vanda</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1411">81</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">that</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">than</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1503">92</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">washerman</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">washermen</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1549">97</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">w&icirc;th</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">with</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1562">99</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Bularem</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Bularam</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1586">101</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Viswena</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Viswema</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1611">104</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Kangjoopkool</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Kang-joop-kool</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1618">104</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">similiar</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">similar</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1675">112</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">.</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1753">123</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Murumbo</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Murumboo</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1841">135</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Frecis</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Ficus</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1868">139</a>,
+<a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1871">139</a>, <a class="pageref" href=
+"#xd20e1890">142</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Bularaam</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Bularam</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2174">171</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">perpenpicular</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">perpendicular</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2222">175</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">detatched</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">detached</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2225">175</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">[<i>Not in source</i>]</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">)</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2228">175</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Macregor</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Macgregor</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2273">180</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Nago</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Naga</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2335">188</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Thangel</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Thangal</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2397">196</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Senapattee</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Senaputtee</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2491">206</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">indepedent</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">independent</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2551">212</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Tsawbwaa</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Tsawbwa</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2652">225</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Noonsuangkoong</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Noongsuangkong</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2661">226</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">dis ant</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">distant</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2684">229</a>,
+<a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2691">230</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Febuary</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">February</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2698">231</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Cephelotaxus</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Cephalotaxus</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2806">246</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">where-ever</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">wherever</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e4142">285</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Lieuteuant</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Lieutenant</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e4226">286</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Samagooting</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Samagudting</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga
+Hills, by James Johnstone
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR ***
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills, by
+James Johnstone
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills
+
+Author: James Johnstone
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2011 [EBook #37839]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project
+Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously
+made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                             MY EXPERIENCES
+                                   IN
+                       MANIPUR AND THE NAGA HILLS
+
+                              By the late
+                   Major-General SIR JAMES JOHNSTONE
+                                K.C.S.I.
+
+                      With an introductory memoir
+
+
+                              Illustrated
+
+
+                                 London
+                    Sampson Low, Marston and Company
+                                Limited
+                          St. Dunstan's House
+                    Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.
+                                  1896
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                               I DEDICATE
+
+                      THESE PAGES TO THE MEMORY OF
+
+                                My Wife,
+
+             WHO SHARED IN MANY OF MY LABOURS AND ANXIETIES
+                    IN MANIPUR, AND THE NAGA HILLS,
+          AND WHOSE SPIRIT INSPIRED ME IN MY LAST ENTERPRISE,
+                        AND WHO, HAD SHE LIVED,
+                 WOULD HAVE WRITTEN A BETTER RECORD OF
+                      OUR EXPERIENCES THAN I HAVE
+                            BEEN ABLE TO DO.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
+
+
+When I first brought my wife out to India in 1873, I was struck by
+the comments she made on things which had so long been part of my
+daily life. I had almost ceased to observe them. Every day she noted
+something new, and her diary was so interesting that I advised her
+to write a book on her "First Impressions of India," and she meant
+to do so, but never had time. Had she lived, this would have been a
+pleasure to her, but it was otherwise ordained. I feel now that I am
+in some way carrying out her wishes, by attempting a description of
+our life in India, though I am fully sensible that I cannot hope to
+achieve the pleasant chatty style in which she excelled.
+
+I have also striven to give a fair record of the events with which I
+was connected; and perhaps, as they include a description of a state
+of things that has passed away for ever, they may not be devoid of
+interest. I am one of those old-fashioned Anglo-Indians who still
+believe in personal government, a system by which we gained India,
+solidified our rule, and made ourselves fairly acceptable to the
+people whom we govern. I believe the machine-like system which we have
+introduced and are endeavouring to force into every corner of India,
+till all personal influence is killed out, to be ill-adapted to the
+requirements of these Oriental races, and blighting in its effects. Not
+one native chief has adopted it in its integrity, which is in itself
+a fair argument that it is distasteful to the native mind; and we may
+be assured that if we evacuated India to-morrow, personal rule would
+again make itself felt throughout the length and breadth of the land,
+and grow stronger every day. I have always striven to be a reformer,
+but a reformer building on the solid foundations that we already find
+everywhere in India. Wherever you go, if there is a semblance of
+native rule left, you find a system admirably adapted to the needs
+of the population, though very often grown over with abuses. Clear
+away these abuses, and add a little in the way of modern progress,
+but always building on the foundation you find ready to hand, and
+you have a system acceptable to all.
+
+We are wonderfully timid in sweeping away real abuses, for fear of
+hurting the feelings of the people; at the same time we weigh them
+down with unnecessary, oppressive, and worrying forms, and deluge the
+country with paper returns, never realising that these cause far more
+annoyance than would be felt at our making some radical change in a
+matter which, after all, affects only a minority. Take, for instance,
+the case of suttee, or widow-burning. It was argued for years that
+we could not put it down without causing a rebellion. What are the
+facts? A governor-general, blessed with moral courage in a great
+degree, determined to abolish the barbarous custom, and his edict
+was obeyed without a murmur. So it has been in many other cases,
+and so it will be wherever we have the courage to do the right
+thing. An unpopular tax would cause more real dissatisfaction than
+any interference with bad old customs, only adhered to from innate
+conservatism. The great principle on which to act is to do what
+is right, and what commends itself to common sense, and to try and
+carry the people with you. Do not let us have more mystery than is
+necessary; telling the plain truth is the best course; vacillation
+is fatal; the strongest officer is generally the most popular, and
+is remembered by the people long after he is dead and gone.
+
+Personal rule is doomed, and men born to be personal rulers and a
+blessing to the governed, are now harassed by the authorities till
+they give up in despair, and swim with the stream.
+
+The machine system did not gain India, and will not keep it for us;
+we must go back to a better system, or be prepared to relax our
+grasp, and give up the grandest work any nation ever undertook--the
+regeneration of an empire!
+
+The House of Commons has to answer for much. No Indian administration
+is safe from the interference of theorists. To-day it is opium that
+is attacked by self-righteous individuals, who see in the usual, and
+in most cases harmless, stimulant of millions, a crying evil; while
+they view with apparent complacency the expenditure of L120,000,000
+per annum on intoxicating liquors in England, and long columns in
+almost every newspaper recording brutal outrages on helpless women
+and children as the result.
+
+Then the military administration is attacked, and in pursuance of
+another chimera, an iniquitous bill is forced on the Government
+of India calculated to produce results, which will probably sap
+the efficiency of our army at a critical moment. So it goes on,
+and it is hardly to be wondered at that the authorities in India
+give up resistance in sheer disgust, knowing all the while that,
+as the French say, le deluge must come after them.
+
+It may be said, "What has all this to do with Manipur and the Naga
+Hills?" Nothing perhaps directly, but indirectly a great deal. The
+system which I decry carries its evil influence everywhere, and Manipur
+has suffered from it. I describe the Naga Hills and Manipur as they
+were in old days. I strove hard for years to hold the floods back from
+this little State and to preserve it intact, while doing all I could
+to introduce reforms. Now the floods have overwhelmed it, and if it
+rises again above them it will not be the Manipur that I knew and
+loved. May it, in spite of my doubts and fears, be a better Manipur.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    Page
+
+Introduction                                                         xix
+
+
+Chapter I.
+
+    Arrival in India--Hospitable friends--The Lieut.-Governor--Journey
+    to the Naga Hills--Nigriting--Golaghat--A panther reminiscence--Hot
+    springs--A village dance--Dimapur--My new abode                    1
+
+
+Chapter II.
+
+    Samagudting--Unhealthy quarters--A callous widower--Want of
+    water--Inhabitants of the Naga Hills--Captain Butler--Other
+    officials--Our life in the wilds--A tiger carries off the
+    postman--An Indian forest--Encouragement                          12
+
+
+Chapter III.
+
+    Historical events connected with Manipur and the Naga
+    Hills--Different tribes--Their religion--Food and customs         22
+
+
+Chapter IV.
+
+    Value of keeping a promise--Episode of Sallajee--Protection
+    given to small villages, and the large one defied--"Thorough"
+    Government of India's views--A plea for Christian education in
+    the Naga Hills                                                    37
+
+
+Chapter V.
+
+    Visit Dimapur--A terrible storm--Cultivation--Aggression by
+    Konoma--My ultimatum--Konoma submits--Birth of a son--Forest
+    flowers--A fever patient--Proposed change of station--Leave
+    Naga Hills--March through the forest--Depredation by
+    tigers--Calcutta--Return to England                               45
+
+
+Chapter VI.
+
+    Return to India--Attached to Foreign Office--Imperial assemblage at
+    Delhi--Almorah--Appointed to Manipur--Journey to Shillong--Cherra
+    Poojee--Colonel McCulloch--Question of ceremony                   54
+
+
+Chapter VII.
+
+    Start for Manipur--March over the hills--Lovely scenery--View of
+    the valley--State reception--The Residency--Visitors              60
+
+
+Chapter VIII.
+
+    Visit the Maharajah--His ministers--Former revolutions--Thangal
+    Major                                                             69
+
+
+Chapter IX.
+
+    Manipur--Early history--Our connection with it--Ghumbeer
+    Singh--Burmese war                                                78
+
+
+Chapter X.
+
+    Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of him--Nur Singh and
+    attempt on his life--McCulloch--His wisdom and generosity--My
+    establishment--Settlement of frontier dispute                     88
+
+
+Chapter XI.
+
+    My early days in Manipur--The capital--The inhabitants--Good
+    qualities of Manipuris--Origin of valley of Manipur--Expedition
+    to the Naga Hills--Lovely scenery--Attack on Kongal Tannah by
+    Burmese--Return from Naga Hills--Visit Kongal Tannah              95
+
+
+Chapter XII.
+
+    Discussions as to new Residency--Its completion--Annual
+    boat-races--Kang-joop-kool--Daily work--Dealings with the
+    Durbar                                                           104
+
+
+Chapter XIII.
+
+    Violent conduct of Prince Koireng--A rebuke--Service
+    payment--Advantages of Manipuri system--Customs
+    duties--Slavery--Releasing slaves--Chowbas' fidelity--Sepoy's
+    kindness to children--Visit to the Yoma range                    112
+
+
+Chapter XIV.
+
+    An old acquaintance--Monetary crisis--A cure for breaking
+    crockery--Rumour of human sacrifices--Improved postal
+    system--Apricots--Mulberries--A snake story--Search after
+    treasure--Another snake story--Visit to Calcutta--Athletics--Ball
+    practice--A near shave                                           122
+
+
+Chapter XV.
+
+    Spring in Manipur--Visit Kombang--Manipuri orderlies--Parade of
+    the Maharajah's Guards--Birth of a daughter--An evening walk in
+    the capital--Polo--Visit to Cachar                               131
+
+
+Chapter XVI.
+
+    Punishment of female criminals--A man saved from execution--A Kuki
+    executed--Old customs abolished--Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh--The
+    Manipuri army--Effort to re-organise Manipur Levy--System
+    of rewards--"Nothing for nothing"--An English school--Hindoo
+    festivals--Rainbows--View from Kang-joop-kool                    138
+
+
+Chapter XVII.
+
+    Mr. Damant and the Naga Hills--Rumours on which I act--News
+    of revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant's murder--Maharajah's
+    loyalty--March to the relief of Kohima--Relief of Kohima--Incidents
+    of siege--Heroism of ladies--A noble defence                     147
+
+
+Chapter XVIII.
+
+    Restoring order and confidence--Arrival of Major Evans--Arrival
+    of Major Williamson--Keeping open communication--Attack on
+    Phesama--Visit to Manipur--General Nation arrives--Join him at
+    Suchema--Prepare to attack Konoma--Assault of Konoma             161
+
+
+Chapter XIX.
+
+    Konoma evacuated--Journey to Suchema for provisions and ammunition,
+    and return--We march to Suchema with General--Visit Manipur--Very
+    ill--Meet Sir Steuart Bayley in Cachar--His visit to Manipur--Grand
+    reception--Star of India--Chussad attack on Chingsow--March to
+    Kohima and back--Reflections on Maharajah's services--Naga Hills
+    campaign overshadowed by Afghan war                              175
+
+
+Chapter XX.
+
+    Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad outrage--Interesting
+    country--Rhododendrons--Splendid forest--Chingsow and the
+    murders--Chattik--March back across the hills                    182
+
+
+Chapter XXI.
+
+    Saving a criminal from execution--Konoma men visit me--A
+    terrible earthquake--Destruction wrought in the capital--Illness
+    of the Maharajah--Question as to the succession--Arrival of
+    the Queen's warrant--Reception by the Maharajah--The Burmese
+    question                                                         190
+
+
+Chapter XXII.
+
+    March to Mao and improvement of the road--Lieutenant
+    Raban--Constant troubles with Burmah--Visit to Mr. Elliott
+    at Kohima--A tiger hunt made easy--A perilous adventure--Rose
+    bushes--Brutal conduct of Prince Koireng--We leave Manipur for
+    England                                                          198
+
+
+Chapter XXIII.
+
+    Return to Manipur--Revolution in my absence--Arrangements for
+    boundary--Survey and settlement--Start for Kongal--Burmese will
+    not act--We settle boundary--Report to Government--Return to
+    England                                                          208
+
+
+Chapter XXIV.
+
+    Return to India--Visit to Shillong--Manipur again--Cordial
+    reception--Trouble with Thangal Major--New arts introduced       216
+
+
+Chapter XXV.
+
+    A friend in need--Tour round the valley--Meet the Chief
+    Commissioner--March to Cachar--Tour through the Tankhool
+    country--Metomi Saramettie--Somrah--Terrace cultivators--A
+    dislocation--Old quarters at Kongal Tannah--Return to the valley
+    --A sad parting                                                  223
+
+
+Chapter XXVI.
+
+    More trouble with Thangal Major--Tit-for-tat--Visit to the Kubo
+    valley--A new Aya Pooiel--Journey to Shillong--War is declared--A
+    message to Kendat to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation agents--Anxiety
+    as to their fate--March to Mao                                   236
+
+
+Chapter XXVII.
+
+    News from Kendat--Mr. Morgan and his people safe--I determine to
+    march to Moreh Tannah--March to Kendat--Arrive in time to save
+    the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents--Visit of the Woon--Visit
+    to the Woon                                                      244
+
+
+Chapter XXVIII.
+
+    People fairly friendly--Crucifixion--Carelessness of Manipuris--I
+    cross the Chindwin--Recross the Chindwin--Collect provisions--Erect
+    stockades and fortify our position--Revolt at Kendat--We assume the
+    offensive--Capture boats and small stockades--Revolt put down--Woon
+    and Ruckstuhl rescued--Steamers arrive and leave                 251
+
+
+Chapter XXIX.
+
+    Mischief done by departure of steamers--Determine to establish the
+    Woon at Tamu--The country quieting down--Recovery of mails--Letter
+    from the Viceroy--Arrive at Manipur--Bad news--I return to
+    Tamu--Night march to Pot-tha--An engagement--Wounded--Return to
+    Manipur--Farewell--Leave for England                             260
+
+
+Chapter XXX.
+
+Conclusion.
+
+    The events of 1890-1                                             271
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY MEMOIR.
+
+
+These experiences were written in brief intervals of leisure, during
+the last few months of the author's busy life, which was brought to
+a sudden close before they were finally revised. Only last March when
+his nearest relations met at Fulford Hall to take leave of the eldest
+son of the house, before he sailed for India, the manuscript was still
+incomplete, and Sir James read some part of it aloud. His health had
+suffered greatly from over-fatigue in the unhealthy parts of India,
+in which his lot had been chiefly cast, but it was now quite restored
+and a prolonged period of usefulness seemed before him.
+
+Improvements on the farms on his estate, a church within reach of his
+cottagers, to be built as a memorial to his late wife, and the hope
+of being once more employed abroad, probably as a colonial governor,
+were all plans for the immediate future, while the present was
+occupied with the magisterial and other business (including lectures
+on history in village institutes), which fill up so much of an English
+country gentleman's life. He had saved nothing in India. What the
+Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal wrote in 1872 of his early work at
+Keonjhur, applied to everything else he subsequently undertook:
+"Captain Johnstone's schools, twenty in number, continue to flourish,
+attracting an average attendance of 665 children. Captain Johnstone's
+efforts to improve the crops and cattle of Keonjhur have before been
+remarked by the Lieutenant-Governor. His sacrifices for this end and
+for his charge generally, are, His Honour believes, almost unique." [1]
+But in 1881 by the death of his late father's elder brother, he
+inherited the Fulford estate on the boundaries of Worcestershire and
+Warwickshire, as well as Dunsley Manor in Staffordshire. The old Hall
+at Fulford, a strongly built, black and white, half-timbered erection
+of some centuries back, had been pulled down a few years before,
+and Sir James built the present house close to the old site. It was
+here that he was brought back in a dying state on June 13th, 1895,
+about 10 A.M., after riding out of the grounds only ten minutes
+before, full of life and energy. No one witnessed what occurred;
+he was a splendid horseman, but there was evidence that the horse,
+always inclined to be restive, had taken fright on passing a cottager's
+gate and tried to turn back, and that, as its master's whip was still
+firmly grasped in his hand, there had been a struggle.
+
+He was engaged to assist the next day at the annual meeting of the
+Conservative and Unionist Association at Stratford-on-Avon. The Marquis
+of Hertford, who presided, when announcing the catastrophe in very
+feeling terms, spoke of the excellent work that Sir James Johnstone
+had done for the Unionist cause in Warwickshire. At Wythall Church
+(of which he was warden) the Vicar alluded, the following Sunday, to
+"the striking example he had set of a devout and attentive worshipper."
+
+A retired official who had been acquainted with him in India for
+over thirty years, wrote on the same occasion to Captain Charles
+Johnstone, R.N.: "Your brother was a type of character not at all
+common, high-principled, fearless, just, with an overwhelming sense
+of duty, and restless spirit of adventure. It is by characters of
+his type, that our great empire has been created, and it is only if
+such types continue that we may look forward and hope that it will
+be maintained and extended."
+
+Although the family from which Sir James Johnstone sprang is of
+Scottish origin, his own branch of it had lived in Worcestershire
+and Warwickshire for nearly a century and a half. "It has taken a
+prominent part in the social and public life of the Midlands, and
+has produced several eminent physicians." [2] He was the eleventh in
+direct male descent from William Johnstone of Graitney, who received
+a charter of the barony of Newbie for "distinguished services" to
+the Scottish crown in 1541. A remnant of the old Scottish estates was
+inherited by his great-grandfather, Dr. James Johnstone, who died at
+Worcester in 1802, and who, being the fourth son of his parents, had
+left Annandale at the age of twenty-one to settle in Worcestershire
+as a physician, but who always kept up his relations with Scotland,
+and meant to return there in his old age. His anxiety to secure this
+estate--Galabank--in the male line, really defeated his purpose; for
+he bequeathed it to his then unmarried younger son, the late Dr. John
+Johnstone, F.R.S., whose daughter now possesses it, to the exclusion of
+his elder sons who seemed likely to leave nothing but daughters. One
+of these elder sons was Sir James's grandfather, the late Dr. Edward
+Johnstone of Edgbaston Hall, who had married the heiress of Fulford,
+but was left a widower in 1800. Dr. Edward Johnstone was remarried
+in 1802 to Miss Pearson of Tettenhall, and of their two sons, the
+younger, James, born in 1806, practised for many years as a physician,
+and was President of the British Medical Association when it met
+in Birmingham in 1856. His eldest son, the subject of this notice,
+was born in a house now pulled down in the Old Square, Birmingham,
+on February 9th, 1841. Brought up in the midst of the large family of
+brothers and sisters, whose childhood was passed between their home
+in the Old Square and their grandfather's residence at Edgbaston Hall,
+where they spent the summer and autumn: he used also to look back with
+particular pleasure on his visits to his maternal grandfather's country
+house, where he first mounted a pony. His mother was his instructor,
+except occasional lessons from the Rev. T. Price, till at the age of
+nine he entered King Edward's Classical School, of which his father
+was a governor. The head master at that time (1850), was the Rev. (now
+Archdeacon) E. H. Gifford, D.D., and in the school list for 1852,
+Johnstone senior is placed next in the same class to Mackenzie (now
+Sir Alex.), the present Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal.
+
+In 1855, young James Johnstone went to a military college in Paris,
+which was swept away before 1870, with a great part of the older
+portion of the city. After a year and a half in Paris he was
+transferred to the Royal Naval and Military Academy, Gosport, and
+a few months later qualified for one of the last cadetships given
+under the old East India Company. Without delay he proceeded to
+India, which was at that period distracted by the Indian Mutiny,
+so that his regiment the 68th Bengal Native Infantry, consisted only
+of officers attached to different European regiments, or acting in a
+civil capacity. With the 73rd (Queen's Regiment) he marched through
+the country, and was actively employed in the suppression of the
+insurgents, after which he was stationed for some time in Assam where
+he also saw active service. There, in 1862, he met with the accident
+he alludes to on pp. 3 and 20. It came in the course of his duty, as
+the population of a village which had been disarmed had sent to the
+nearest military post to ask for assistance against a tiger (panther),
+causing destruction in the neighbourhood; but he was very much hurt,
+and the weakening effects of this accident, seem to have predisposed
+him to attacks of the malaria fever of the district, from which he
+frequently suffered afterwards.
+
+His next post was at Keonjhur, where there had been an outbreak
+against the Rajah by some of the hill-tribes and the chief insurgent
+had been executed. Lieutenant Johnstone was appointed special
+assistant to the superintendent of the Tributary Mehals at Cuttack,
+in whose official district Keonjhur lies. The Superintendent wrote
+to the Lieutenant-Governor (Sir William Grey) of Bengal in 1869:
+"Captain Johnstone has acquired their full confidence, and hopes
+very shortly to be able to dispense with the greater part of the
+Special Police Force posted at Keonjhur. He appears to take very
+great interest in his work, and is sanguine of success." The same
+official when enclosing Captain Johnstone's first report, wrote:
+"It contains much interesting matter regarding the people, and shows
+that he has taken great pains in bringing them into the present
+peaceable and apparently loyal condition," and a little further on,
+when describing an interview he had with the Rajah: "From the manner
+in which he spoke of Captain Johnstone, I was exceedingly glad to
+find that the most good feeling exists between them." He also adds,
+apropos of a recommendation that the Government should pay half the
+expense of the special commission instead of charging it all on the
+native state: "Nearly one half of Captain Johnstone's time has been
+occupied in Khedda (catching wild elephants) operations, which have
+been successful and profitable to Government, and totally unconnected
+with that officer's duty in Keonjhur." [3]
+
+A year later the superintendent (T. E. Ravenshaw, Esq.) reports:
+"Captain Johnstone, with his usual liberality and tact, has clothed
+two thousand naked savages, and has succeeded in inducing them to wear
+the garments;" and again, "Captain Johnstone's success in establishing
+schools has been most marked, and there are now nine hundred children
+receiving a rudimentary education.... Captain Johnstone has very
+correctly estimated the political importance of education and
+enlightenment among the hill people, and it is evident that he has
+worked most judiciously and successfully in this direction." And again:
+"In the matter of improvement of breed of cattle, Captain Johnstone
+has, at his own expense, formed a valuable herd of sixty cows and
+several young bulls ready to extend the experiment.... Captain
+Johnstone's experiments on rice and flax cultivation have been
+very successful" (two years later this is attributed to his having
+superintended them himself). The official report sums up, "Of Captain
+Johnstone I cannot speak too highly; his management has been efficient,
+and he has exercised careful and constant supervision over the Rajah
+and his estate, in a manner which has resulted in material improvement
+to both."
+
+Subsequently, when Captain Johnstone was on leave in England, the
+Keonjhur despatches show that he sent directions that the increase of
+his herd of cattle should be distributed gratis among the natives. They
+were at first afraid to accept them, hardly believing in the gift.
+
+"Keonjhur," says the Government report of India for 1870-1, "continues
+under the able administration of Captain Johnstone, who, it will be
+remembered, was mainly instrumental in restoring the country to quiet
+three years ago."
+
+Captain Johnstone was too good a classic not to remember the Roman
+method of conquering and subduing a province; and as far as funds
+would permit, he opened out roads and cleared away jungle. But he
+suffered again from the malaria so prevalent in the forest districts
+of India, and took three months' furlough in 1871, which meant just
+one month in England. Although he had lost his father in May, 1869,
+and his absence from home that year gave him some extra legal expense,
+he would not quit his work till he could leave it in a satisfactory
+state; yet the Lieut.-Governor of Bengal (Sir George Campbell) twice
+referred to this furlough as being "most unfortunate," particularly
+as it had to be repeated within a few months. The superintendent
+wrote from Cuttack in his yearly report to the Lieut.-Governor:
+"Captain Johnstone's serious and alarming illness necessitated his
+taking sick leave to England in August, 1871. He had only a short
+time previously returned from furlough, and with health half restored,
+over-tasked his strength in carrying out elephant Khedda work in the
+deadly jungles of Moburdhunj."
+
+In the spring of 1872, Captain Johnstone was married to Emma Mary
+Lloyd, with whose family his own had a hereditary friendship of
+three generations. Her father was at that time M.P. for Plymouth,
+and living at Moor Hall in Warwickshire. Their first child, James,
+died of bronchitis when six months old, and they returned to India
+a short time afterwards, at which point the experiences begin. Their
+second child, Richard, was born at Samagudting, and is now a junior
+officer in the battalion of the 60th King's Own Royal Rifles, quartered
+in India. The third son, Edward, was born at Dunsley Manor, and two
+younger children in Manipur.
+
+Manipur, to which Colonel Johnstone was appointed in 1877, was
+called by one of the Indian secretaries the Cinderella among
+political agencies. "They'll never," he said, "get a good man to
+take it." "Well," was the reply, "a good man has taken it now." The
+loneliness, the surrounding savages, and the ill-feeling excited by
+the Kubo valley (which so late as 1852 is placed in Manipur, in maps
+published in Calcutta) having been made over to Burmah, were among the
+reasons of its unpopularity. Colonel Johnstone's predecessor, Captain
+Durand (now Sir Edward) draws a very glaring picture in his official
+report for 1877, of the Maharajah's misgovernment; the wretched
+condition of the people, and the most unpleasant position of the
+Political Agent, whom he described as "in fact a British officer under
+Manipur surveillance.... He is surrounded by spies.... If the Maharajah
+is not pleased with the Political Agent he cannot get anything--he is
+ostracised. From bad coarse black atta, which the Maharajah sells him
+as a favour, to the dhoby who washes his clothes, and the Nagas who
+work in his garden, he cannot purchase anything." Yet, well knowing all
+this, Colonel Johnstone readily accepted the post, confident that with
+his great knowledge of Eastern languages, and of Eastern customs and
+modes of thought, he should be able to bring about a better state of
+things, both as regarded the oppressed inhabitants and the permanent
+influence of the representative of the British Government. Whether
+this confidence was justified, the following pages will show.
+
+
+                                                                 EDITOR.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR AND THE NAGA HILLS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Arrival in India--Hospitable friends--The
+    Lieutenant-Governor--Journey to the Naga
+    Hills--Nigriting--Golaghat--A Panther reminiscence--Hot springs--A
+    village dance--Dimapur--My new abode.
+
+
+I left England with my wife on November 13th, 1873, and after an
+uneventful voyage, reached Bombay, December 9th. We proceeded at once
+to Calcutta, where some of my old servants joined me, including two
+bearers, Seewa and Keptie, wild Bhooyas from the Cuttack Tributary
+Mehals, whom I had trained, and who had been with me for years in
+all my wanderings, in that wild territory. Thanks to the kindness of
+my friends the Bernards (now Sir C. and Lady Bernard), we spent only
+a day at an hotel, and remained under their hospitable roof till we
+left Calcutta.
+
+My old appointment in Keonjhur had been abolished, and I had to wait
+till another was open to me. I had several interviews on the subject
+with the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, Sir G. Campbell. Finally it
+was decided that I should go to Assam (then about to be made into a
+Chief Commissionership) and act as Political Agent of the Naga Hills,
+while the permanent official--Captain Butler--was away in the Interior,
+and subsequently on leave. I knew a large part of the district well,
+as one of the most malarious in India, and when asked if I would take
+the appointment, said, "Yes, I have no objection, but just hint to
+the Lieutenant-Governor that unless he wants to kill me off, it may
+be better policy to send me elsewhere, as the Medical Board in London
+said, I must not go to a malarious district, after the experience
+I have had of it in Keonjhur." The Secretary conveyed my hint, and
+when I next saw him, said, "The Lieutenant-Governor says, that is
+all stuff and nonsense." Later on Sir G. Campbell asked if my wife
+would go with me. I quietly replied that she would go anywhere with me.
+
+Finally, on December 30th, we left Calcutta, and after a night in the
+train, embarked in one of the I. G. S. N. Co.'s steamers at Goalundo,
+for Nigriting on the Burrhampooter, where we had to land for the Naga
+Hills. The steamers of those days, were not like the well-appointed
+mail boats now in use. The voyage was long, the steamers uncomfortable,
+and the company on board anything but desirable. All the same, the
+days passed pleasantly, while we slowly wended our way up the mighty
+river, amid lovely and interesting scenery all new to my wife, to
+whom I pointed out the different historic spots as they came in view.
+
+We halted at Gowhatty for the night, and early in the morning I swam
+across the river for the second time in my life, a distance of about
+three miles, as the current carried me in a slanting direction.
+
+At last we reached Nigriting, and were landed on a dry sandbank five
+or six miles from the celebrated tea gardens of that name, and the
+nearest habitations. Fortunately, I had brought a tent and all things
+needful for a march; and my servants, well accustomed to camp life,
+soon pitched it and made us comfortable, and my wife was charmed with
+her first experience. We had a message of welcome from Mr. Boyle,
+of Nigriting Factory, and the next day went to his house in canoes,
+whence we set out for Golaghat.
+
+It was to Nigriting that I was carried for change of air nearly
+twelve years before, when, in April, 1862, I was desperately wounded
+in an encounter with a large panther near Golaghat, where I had been
+stationed. I then lived for a week or so in a grass hut on a high
+bank, and the fresh air made my obstinate wounds begin to heal. Thus it
+happened that all the people knew me well, and I was long remembered by
+the name of "Baghe Khooah" literally the "tiger eaten," a name which I
+found was still familiar to every one. Loading our things on elephants,
+and having a pony for my wife, and a dandy (hill litter) in case she
+grew tired, we set off for Golaghat, and had a picnic luncheon on the
+way. How delightful are our first experiences of marching in India,
+even when we have, as in this case, to put up with some discomfort;
+the cool, crisp air in the morning; the good appetite that a ten-mile
+walk or ride gives; the feeling that breakfast has been earned, and
+finally breakfast itself; and such a good one. Where indeed but in
+India could we have a first-rate meal of three or four courses, and
+every dish hot, with no better appliances in the shape of a fireplace,
+than two or three clods of earth? Often have I had a dinner fit for
+a king, when heavy rain had been falling for hours, and there was no
+shelter for my men, but a tree with a sheet thrown over a branch.
+
+We breakfasted at a place called "Char Allee" and the march being
+long (nearly twenty miles), the sun was low long before reaching
+Golaghat. As we passed some road coolies, I began a conversation with
+the old Tekla (overseer) in charge, and asked him if he could get me
+a few oranges. He said, "Oh no, they are all over." He then asked me
+how I came to speak Assamese so well. I said, "I have been in Assam
+before." He said, "Oh yes, there have been many sahibs in my time,"
+and he named several; "and then long ago there was a 'Baghe Khooah'
+sahib, I wonder where he is now?" I looked at him and said, "Ami Baghe
+Khooah" (I am the Baghe Khooah). The old man gazed equally hard at
+me for a moment and then ran in front of me and made a most profound
+obeisance. Having done this, he smilingly said, "I think I can find
+you some oranges after all," and at once ran off, and brought me some
+for which he refused to take anything. The good old man walked about a
+mile farther before he wished me good-bye; and my wife and I went on,
+greatly pleased to find that I was so well remembered.
+
+We did not get to Golaghat till long after dark, and pitched our tent
+on the site of the lines of my old detachment, which I had commanded
+twelve years before. What a change! Trees that I had remembered as
+small, had grown large, and some that were planted since I left,
+already a fair size.
+
+In the morning we received a perfect ovation. People who had known me
+before, crowded to see me and pay their respects, many of them bringing
+their children born since I had left. All this was pleasant enough and
+greatly delighted my wife, but we had to proceed on our way, and it
+is always difficult to get one's followers to move from a civilised
+place, where there is a bazaar, into the jungle, and henceforth our
+road lay through jungle, the Nambor forest beginning about five miles
+from Golaghat. At last coolies to carry my wife arrived, and I sent
+her on in her "dandy" with her ayah, charging the bearers to wait
+for me at a village I well knew, called "Sipahee Hoikeeah." The men
+replied, "Hoi Deota" (Yes, deity [4]) and started. The elephants
+were a great difficulty, and it was some hours before I could get
+off, and even then some had not arrived. However, off I started,
+and hurried on to "Sipahee Hoikeeah" so as not to keep my wife
+waiting, but when I reached the spot, I found to my amazement that
+the village had ceased to exist, having, as I subsequently learned,
+been abandoned for fear of the Nagas. I hurried on in much anxiety,
+as my wife did not speak Hindoostani, and neither ayah nor bearers
+spoke English. At last I caught them up at the Nambor hot springs,
+called by natives the "Noonpoong" where we were to halt.
+
+
+
+------
+FIGURE
+
+Camping Out.
+
+[Page 6.
+------
+
+
+
+The Noonpoong is situated in a lovely spot amidst fine forest. The
+hot water springs out of the ground, at a temperature of 112 degrees
+and fills a small pool. It is similar in taste to the waters
+of Aix-la-Chapelle, and is highly efficacious in skin diseases,
+being resorted to even for the cure of severe leech bites, which
+are easily obtained from the land leech infesting all the forests
+of Assam. Fortunately some of our cooking things, with chairs and a
+table arrived, also a mattress, but no bed and no tent. We waited
+till 9 P.M., and finding that no more elephants came up, I made
+up a bed for my wife on the ground under a table, to shelter her
+from the dew, but while sitting by the camp fire for a last warm,
+we heard the noise of an elephant, and saw one emerging from the
+forest. Fortunately he carried the tent which was quickly pitched,
+and we passed a comfortable night.
+
+The hot springs are not the only attraction of the neighbourhood, as
+about two miles off in the forest, there is a very pretty waterfall,
+not high, but the volume of water is considerable, and it comes down
+with a thundering sound heard for some distance. The natives call it
+the "phutta hil," literally "rent rock." The Nambor forest is noted
+for its Nahor or Nagessur trees (Mesua Ferma) a handsome tree, the
+heart of which is a fine red wood, very hard and very heavy, and quite
+impervious to the attacks of white ants. Europeans call it the iron
+wood of Assam. It is very plentiful in parts of the forest between
+the Noonpoong and Golaghat, and also grows in the lowlands of Manipur.
+
+The next morning we set out for Borpathar, a village with a fine sheet
+of cultivation on the banks of the Dunseree, and took up our quarters
+in the old blockhouse, which had been converted into a comfortable rest
+house. Here again we received a perfect ovation, the people, headed by
+my old friend Hova Ram, now promoted to a Mouzadar, coming in a body,
+with fruit and eggs, etc., to pay their respects. The population had
+sadly diminished since my early days, the people having in many cases
+fled the country for fear of Naga raids.
+
+The march having been a short one, all our baggage had time to come
+up. In the evening the girls of the village entertained us with one
+of their national dances, a very pretty and interesting sight. After
+a good night's rest we again started, our march lying through the
+noble forest, where buttressed trees formed an arch over the road,
+showing plainly that Gothic architecture was an adaptation from
+nature. I had never marched along the road since it was cleared; but
+I was there in 1862, in pursuit of some Naga raiders, when it would
+have been impassable, but for elephant and rhinoceros tracks. Even
+then I was struck by its great beauty, and now it was a fairly good
+cold weather track.
+
+We halted at Deo Panee, then at Hurreo Jan, and Nowkatta, and on the
+fourth day reached Dimapur, where we found a comfortable rest house,
+on the banks of a fine tank about two hundred yards square. This,
+with many others near it, spoke of days of civilisation that had long
+since passed away, before the Naga drove the Cacharee from the hills he
+now inhabits, and from the rich valley of the Dunseree. Near Dimapur
+we passed a Meekir hut built on posts ten or twelve feet high, and
+with a notched log resting against it, at an angle of about seventy
+degrees by way of a staircase, up which a dog ran like a squirrel
+at our approach. The Meekirs occupy some low hill ranges between the
+Naga hills and the Burrhampooter.
+
+The country round Dimapur is exceedingly rich, and everywhere bears
+the marks of having been thickly populated. It is well supplied
+with artificial square tanks, some much larger than the one already
+referred to, and on the opposite bank of the river we crossed to reach
+our halting place, are the remains of an old fortified city. Mounds
+containing broken pottery made with the wheel, abound, though the
+neighbouring tribes have forgotten its use. At Dimapur, in those days,
+there were three or four Government elephants and a few shops kept by
+"Khyahs," an enterprising race of merchants from Western India.
+
+The ruined city is worth describing. It was surrounded originally by
+solid brick walls twelve feet in height and six in thickness, the
+bricks admirably made and burned. The walls enclosed a space seven
+hundred yards square; it was entered by a Gothic archway, and not far
+off had a gap in the wall, said to have been made for cattle to enter
+by. Inside were tanks, some lined with brick walls, and with brick
+steps leading to the water. Though I carefully explored the interior,
+I never saw any other traces of brickwork, except perhaps a platform;
+but I found one or two sacrificial stones, for offerings of flowers,
+water and oil. One corner of the surrounding wall had been cut away
+by the river. The enclosure is covered with forest. Near the gateway
+are some huge monoliths, one eighteen feet in height. All are covered
+with sculpture, and some have deep grooves cut in the top, as if to
+receive beams. It is difficult to conjecture what they were brought
+there for, and how they were transported, as the nearest rocks from
+which they could have been cut, are at least ten miles away. If the
+Assam-Bengal Railway passes near Dimapur as is, I believe, arranged,
+this interesting old city wall will probably be used as a quarry for
+railway purposes, and soon none of it will remain. Alas, for Vandalism!
+
+History tells us little about the origin of Dimapur, but probably it
+was once a centre of Cacharee civilisation, and as the Angami Nagas
+advanced, the city wall was built, so as to afford a place of refuge
+against sudden raids. It is a strange sight to see the relics of a
+forgotten civilisation, in the midst of a pathless forest.
+
+On our march up, we frequently came upon the windings of the river
+Dunseree. At Nowkatta it runs parallel for a time with the road, and
+we took our evening walk on its dry sandbanks, finding many recent
+traces of tigers and wild elephants. From that time till we finally
+left the hills, the roar of tigers and the trumpeting of elephants
+were such common sounds, that we ceased to pay attention to them, and
+my wife, though naturally timid, became devoted to the wild solitude
+of our life.
+
+At Dimapur we enjoyed the luxury of fresh milk, which, of course,
+the forest did not supply. The night was delightfully cold, and the
+next morning crisp and invigorating, and we set off at an early hour,
+for our last march into Samagudting.
+
+For the first eight miles our road was through a level forest country,
+with the exception of a piece of low-lying grass land, and at a place
+called Nichu Guard the ascent of the hill commenced. This entrance of
+the gorge through which the Diphoo Panee river enters the low lands is
+very beautiful, the stream rushing out from the hills over a pebbly
+bottom, and it was a favourite encamping ground for us in our later
+marches. Now, we had not time to halt, so hurried on. The road up the
+hill was in fair condition for men and elephants, but did not admit
+of wheeled traffic, had there been any carts to use. We accomplished
+the ascent, a distance of four miles, in about two hours, obtaining
+several lovely views of the boundless forest, on our way.
+
+The vegetation on the hill itself had been much injured by the
+abominable practice hillmen have, of clearing a fresh space every two
+or three years, and deserting it for another, when the soil has been
+exhausted. This never gives it time to recover. At last we reached
+the summit, and took possession of the Political Agent's house, a
+large bungalow, built of grass and bamboo, the roof being supported by
+wooden posts, on the highest point of the hill. A glance showed me that
+the posts were nearly eaten through by white ants, and that the first
+high wind would level it with the ground. It had been built by a man
+who never intended to stay, and who only wanted it to last his time.
+
+Later in the day, I took over the charge from Mr. Coombs, who was
+acting till my arrival, and thus became, for the time, chief of the
+district. My staff consisted of Mr. Needham, Assistant Political Agent,
+and Mr. Cooper, in medical charge, the usual office establishment,
+and one hundred and fifty military police. Most of these, together with
+Captain Butler, for whom I was acting, were away in the Interior with
+a survey party. Mr. Coombs left in a day or two, and I then occupied
+his bungalow lower down the hill, and in a more exposed position, so
+as to allow of the larger house being rebuilt. Besides the Government
+establishment, we had a fair-sized Naga village on the hill, and
+just below the Political Agent's house. These people had long been
+friendly to us, and were willing, for a large recompense, to do all
+sorts of odd jobs, being entirely free from the caste prejudices of
+our Hindoo and degenerate Mussulman fellow-subjects.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Samagudting--Unhealthy quarters--A callous widower--Want of
+    water--Inhabitants of the Naga Hills--Captain Butler--Other
+    officials--Our life in the wilds--A tiger carries off the
+    postman--An Indian forest--Encouragement.
+
+
+My first impressions of Samagudting, were anything but favourable. It
+was eminently a "make-shift place." It had been occupied by us as
+a small outpost, from time to time, between 1846 and 1851, but it
+was never fit for a permanent post of more than twenty-five men,
+as the water supply was bad, there being no springs, and only a few
+water holes which were entirely dependent on the uncertain rainfall. A
+small tank had been constructed, but it was 500 feet below the summit,
+so that water was sold at an almost prohibitive rate. All articles
+of food were scarce, dear and bad, wood was enormously dear, and to
+crown all, the place was unhealthy and constantly enveloped in fog.
+
+Samagudting [5] ought never to have been occupied, and would not
+have been, had the Government taken ordinary precautions to verify
+the too roseate reports of an officer who wished to see it adopted
+as the headquarters of a new district, as a speedy road to promotion,
+and subsequent transfer to a more favoured appointment. The report in
+question which, among other things, mentioned the existence of springs
+of water, that existed only in imagination, having once been accepted
+by the authorities, and a large expenditure incurred, it became a
+very invidious task for future Political Agents to unmask the affair,
+and proclaim the extreme unsuitability of Samagudting for a station.
+
+Many other good and healthy sites were available, and I believe that
+our dealings with the Nagas were greatly retarded, by the adoption
+of such an unsuitable post. As it was, having made our road over the
+hill, it was necessary to climb an ascent of over two thousand feet,
+and an equal descent, before entering the really important portion
+of the Angami Naga country. I at once saw that the right entrance
+lay by the Diphoo Panee Gorge, and I recommended its adoption. I
+began to make this road during the Naga Hills Campaign of 1879-80,
+and it has since been regularly used.
+
+Having said all that there was to say against Samagudting, it is
+only fair to mention its good points. First, though never so cold in
+the winter, as the plains, the temperature was never so high in the
+hot and rainy seasons; and when the weather was fine, it was very
+enjoyable. The views from the hill were magnificent. To the south,
+the Burrail range, from which a broad and undulating valley divided
+us. To the west, a long stretch of hills and forests. To the east,
+the valley of the Dunseree, bordered by the Rengma and Lotah Naga
+hills, a vast forest, stretching as far as the eye could reach,
+with here and there a large patch of high grass land, one of which
+many miles in extent, was the Rengma Putha, a grand elephant catching
+ground in old times, where many a noble elephant became a victim to
+the untiring energy of the Bengali elephant phandaits or noosers,
+from the Morung. [6] To the north, the view extended over a pathless
+forest, the first break being the Doboka Hills. Behind these, a long
+bank of mist showed the line of the Burrhampooter, while on clear
+days in the cold weather, we might see the dark line of the Bhootan
+Hills, with the snowy peaks of the Himalayas towering above them. [7]
+Altogether, it was a sight once seen, never to be forgotten.
+
+
+
+------
+FIGURE
+
+Samagudting.
+
+[Page 14.
+------
+
+
+
+There was a footpath all round the hill, which, after a little
+alteration of level here and there, and a little repairing, where
+landslips had made it unsafe, was delightful for a morning or evening
+walk or ride. As my wife was fond of botany, she found a subject of
+never-ending interest in the many wild flowers, ferns, and climbing
+plants, and soon grew accustomed to riding along the edge of a dizzy
+precipice.
+
+Our private establishment consisted of ten or twelve servants in all,
+including a girl of the Kuki tribe, named Bykoout, who assisted the
+ayah; a very small establishment for India. Servants in Assam are
+bad and difficult to keep. Most of mine were imported, but, with the
+exception of my two faithful Bhooyas, Seewa and Keptie, and a syce
+(groom), by name Peewa, they were all soon corrupted, though some had
+been with me for years. Seewa once said to me, "The influence here
+is so bad, that we too shall be corrupted if we stay long." Seewa was
+quite a character. One day I got a letter from one of his relations,
+asking me to tell him that his wife was dead. I remembered her well;
+it was a love match, and she had run away with him. I feared it would
+be such a blow, that I felt quite nervous about telling him, and put it
+off till the evening, when, with a faltering voice, I broke the news as
+gently as I could. Instead of the outburst of grief I had looked for,
+he quietly asked, "What did she die of?" I said, "Fever." He replied,
+"Oh, yes, I thought it must be that. Will you write and see that all
+her property is made over to my brother, otherwise some of her people
+may steal it?"
+
+The state of things at Samagudting was very discouraging. I resented
+seeing the Government and the establishment being charged famine prices
+for everything, by the Nagas and Khyahs; also the general squalor which
+prevailed, and which I felt need not exist. It was the inheritance
+of the hand-to-mouth system in which everything had been commenced
+in early days. However, my wife set me an example of cheerfulness,
+and I made up my mind to remedy all the evils I could. First, the
+supply system was attacked, and I made arrangements with some old
+Khyah friends at Golaghat, to send up large supplies of rice and
+other kinds of food, and as the season advanced, I encouraged such of
+the military police as could be spared to take up land at Dimapur,
+and cultivate. For ourselves, I bought two cows at Borpathar, and
+established them at Nichu Guard, whence my gardener brought up the milk
+every day. In a short time we were more comfortable than could have
+been expected, and there was the additional satisfaction of seeing
+that the arrangements for cheaper food for the establishment proved
+successful. Water was the standing difficulty; we had to depend upon
+the caprice of the Naga water-carriers, and frequently my wife's
+bath, filled ready for the next morning, had to be emptied in the
+evening to provide water for cooking our evening meal! Sometimes I
+got clean water for drinking from the Diphoo Panee, otherwise what
+we had was as if it had been taken from a dirty puddle. The want
+of water prevented our having a garden near our house; we had a few
+hardy flowers, including the shoe-flower--a kind of hibiscus--roses,
+and passion-flower. Such vegetable-garden as we had was at Nichu Guard,
+where the soil was good, and water plentiful.
+
+Our house was watertight, and that was the best that could be said
+for it. It was thatched, with walls of split bamboos and strengthened
+by wooden posts; there were no glass windows, and the doors and
+shutters were of split bamboo tied together; the mud floor was also
+covered with thin split bamboos, and had to be swept constantly,
+as the dust worked through. We had one sitting-room, a bed-room,
+bath-room, pantry, and store-room, the latter full of rats. Snakes
+occasionally visited us, and a day or two after we had settled in,
+a cat rushed in while we were at breakfast, jumped on my knee and
+took away the meat from my plate, and bit and scratched me when I
+tried to catch her. My dressing-room was the shade of a tree outside,
+where I bathed Anglo-Indian camp fashion, substituting a large hollow
+bamboo for the usual mussuk, or skin of water.
+
+We arrived at Samagudting on January 23rd, 1874, and by the beginning
+of February felt quite old residents; hill-walking no longer tired me,
+and we had made acquaintance with all the Nagas of the village, and of
+many others, and were on quite friendly terms with "Jatsole," the chief
+of Samagudting, a shrewd far-seeing man, with great force of character.
+
+I have mentioned the Burrail range, and the valley separating
+us. Besides Samagudting there were two other villages on our side,
+Sitekima, on the opposite bank of the Diphoo Panee Gorge, and
+Tesephima, on outlying spurs of Samagudting. I say Samagudting,
+as it has become the common appellation, but correctly speaking it
+should be Chumookodima.
+
+On the side of the Burrail facing us, were villages belonging to
+a tribe we call Kutcha Nagas, a race inferior in fighting power to
+the Angamis, but not unlike them in appearance, though of inferior
+physique. These villages were formerly inhabited by Cacharees. [8]
+
+On February 4th, I had a letter from Captain Butler, saying that
+he would be at Kohima in a day or two, and asking me to meet him
+there. He said that three of the police would be a sufficient escort. I
+accordingly took three men, and started on the 6th, marching to Piphima
+twenty-one miles, and the next morning another twenty-one into Kohima,
+two very hard marches. I was glad to renew my acquaintance with Butler,
+whom I had known when he first landed in India in 1861, and I was in
+Fort William, studying for my Hindustani examination. He was a fine
+manly fellow, admirably fitted to conduct an expedition, where pluck
+and perseverance were required. Here, I also met Dr. Brown, Political
+Agent of Manipur, and Captain (now Colonel) Badgley and Lieutenant
+(now Colonel C.B.) Woodthorpe, R.E., of the survey, also Lieutenant
+(now Major V.C.) Ridgeway, 44th N.I., I spent a pleasant evening,
+discussing various subjects with Captain Butler, and early on the
+8th started on my return journey.
+
+Captain Butler had done the whole forty-two miles into Samagudting
+in one day, and I determined to attempt it, and succeeded, though
+the last 2000 feet of ascent to my house was rather hard, tired as I
+was. My wife did not expect me, but I had arranged to fire three shots
+from my rifle as a signal, if I arrived at any time by night; this I
+did about 500 feet below my house, and I at once saw lanterns appear
+far above me, and in a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes, I was
+at my door. The sound of firing at 9 P.M. created quite a sensation
+among the weak-nerved ones on the hill, but it was good practice for
+the sentries to be kept on the alert. Ever after, three shots from
+a rifle or a revolver, were always my signal when I neared home,
+and often in after years were they heard in the dead of night, when
+I was thought to be miles away. My wife used to say that it kept the
+people in good order, never knowing when to expect me. I think it did.
+
+Life was never monotonous. I took long walks, after our morning
+walk round the hill, to inspect roads and bridges--a very important
+work. Then I attended Cutcherry (the court of justice) and heard cases,
+often with a loaded revolver in my hand, in case of any wild savage
+attempting to dispute my authority; then I finished off revenue work,
+of which there was little, and went home, had a cup of tea, visited
+hospitals and gaol, if I had not already done so; and afterwards
+went for an evening walk with my wife, round the hill or through
+the village.
+
+Sometimes duty took me to the plains, and we had a most delightful
+march to the Nambor hot springs, when I arranged to have a rest
+house built at Nowkatta, between Dimapur and Hurreo Jan. We reached
+the last place, just after a dreadful catastrophe had occurred. The
+rest house was raised on posts, six feet above the ground. One night
+when the man carrying the dak (post) had arrived from Borpathar,
+he hung up the letter bag under the house on a peg, and having had
+his evening meal, retired to rest in the house with one or two other
+travellers. Suddenly a huge tiger rushed up the steps, sprang through
+the open door, and seizing one of the sleepers, bounded off into
+the forest with him. One of my police who was there snatched up his
+rifle, pursued the tiger and fired, making him drop the man, but life
+was extinct, and when we arrived, there was a huge bloodstain on the
+floor, at least a yard long. Strange to say, the letter bag was on one
+occasion carried off by a tiger, but afterwards recovered, uninjured
+save by tooth marks. The policeman was promoted for his gallantry.
+
+The day after leaving Hurreo Jan, we met a party of Rengma Nagas coming
+to see me, with some little presents. They were the men who helped to
+kill the panther, that wounded me in 1862, [9] and they brought with
+them the son of one of their number, who was killed by the infuriated
+beast, a fine lad of fifteen; needless to say, that I rewarded these
+friendly people, whom I had not seen for twelve years. We halted a
+day or two at the springs, as I had to visit Golaghat on business,
+and unfortunately missed seeing a herd of wild elephants caught, a
+sight I had wished my wife to see. She did see the stockade, but the
+elephants had been already taken out. I hope farther on to describe
+an elephant drive.
+
+I do not know a more agreeable place to halt at than the hot springs
+in former days. In cold weather before the mosquitoes had arrived
+it was perfect rest. A little opening in the tall dark forest, in
+the centre some scrub jungle, including fragrant wild lemons and
+citrons, with the pool in the midst; a babbling stream flowed all
+round the opening, on the other side of which was a high bank. The
+bathing was delightful, and could be made quite private for ladies,
+by means of a cloth enclosure, well known to the Assamese by the name
+of "Ar Kapor." Then the occasional weird cry of the hoolook ape, and
+the gambols of numerous monkeys in the tall trees on the high bank,
+gave plenty of interest to the scene, had the general aspect of the
+place failed in its attractions.
+
+Soon after our return to headquarters, the survey party arrived
+from the interior of the hills, and after a few days' rest, departed
+for their summer quarters. Captain Butler then started for England,
+and Mr. Needham came in to Samagudting.
+
+Thus left in charge for a considerable period, I felt justified
+in doing more than I should have done, had my stay only been of
+a temporary nature, and I went most thoroughly into all questions
+connected with the hills and their administration. My long experience
+in charge of a native state full of wild hill tribes, and my personal
+knowledge of many of the Naga and other wild tribes of Assam (a
+knowledge that went back as far as 1860), were a great help to me,
+as I was consequently not new to the work. The eastern frontier had
+always been to my mind the most interesting field of work in India,
+and now it was for me to learn all I could.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Historical events connected with Manipur and the Naga
+    Hills--Different tribes--Their religion--Food and customs.
+
+
+Shortly after my arrival at Samagudting, I received a cheering letter,
+just when I most needed it, from my old friend Wynne, then Acting
+Foreign Secretary, saying, "Don't be too disappointed at not receiving
+a better appointment than the Naga Hills. You will have plenty of
+good work to do, and you will increase your already very extensive
+knowledge of wild tribes." It was the last letter I ever received
+from him, as cholera quickly carried him off, and I lost in him one
+of the kindest friends I ever had, one who had constantly interested
+himself in my work, and given me advice. Such a friend would have been
+invaluable now. Our position in the Naga Hills was an anxious one, and
+can only be properly realised by knowing the course of previous events.
+
+Our first acquaintance with the Nagas practically began in 1832, when
+Captain Jenkins and Lieutenant Pemberton escorted by Rajah Ghumbeer
+Singh's Manipur troops, forced a passage through the hills with a view
+to ascertaining if there were a practicable route into Assam. They
+came via Paptongmai and Samagudting to Mohong Deejood. There is every
+reason to believe that the Manipuris in former days did penetrate
+into the Naga Hills, and exacted tribute when they felt strong enough
+to do so. All the villages have Manipur names in addition to their
+own. But during the period of her decadence, just before and during
+the Burmese War of 1819-25, any influence Manipur may have possessed
+fell into abeyance. At that time it was re-asserted, and Ghumbeer Singh
+reduced several villages to submission, including the largest of all,
+Kohima, at which place he stood upon a stone and had his footprints
+sculptured on it, in token of conquest. This was set up in a prominent
+position, together with an upright stone bearing carved figures and
+an inscription.
+
+The Nagas greatly respected this stone and cleaned it from time to
+time. They opened a large trade with Manipur, and whenever a Manipuri
+visited a Naga village he was treated as an honoured guest, at a time
+when a British subject could not venture into the interior without
+risk of being murdered.
+
+Even up to the Naga Hills campaign of 1879-80, the Nagas regarded
+Manipur as the greater power of the two, because her conduct was
+consistent; if she threatened, she acted. One British subject after
+another might be murdered with impunity, but woe betide the village
+that murdered a subject of Manipur. A force of Manipuris was instantly
+despatched, the village was attacked, destroyed, and ample compensation
+exacted. The system answered well for Manipur; many of the Nagas began
+to speak Manipuri, and several villages paid an annual tribute. Still,
+up to 1851, we considered that we had some shadowy claim to the hills,
+though we never openly asserted it.
+
+I may as well give a short account of the different tribes inhabiting
+the Naga Hills district when I took charge. The oldest were--
+
+
+
+CACHAREES.
+
+Their origin is obscure. They are first met with in the north-east
+portion of the Assam Valley between the Muttuk country and Sudya. Round
+the last in the vast forests, there are numerous ruins ascribed by the
+people to the Cacharee Rajahs, built of substantial brickwork. I have
+not seen any sculptured stonework, but it may exist. The traditions
+give no clue to their original home, which was probably in Thibet. From
+the neighbourhood of Sudya they penetrated down the valley, leaving
+buildings and remnants of their tribes here and there, notably in
+the Durrung district. The main body were, for a time settled in the
+neighbourhood of Dimapur, and the country lying between it and Doboka,
+the Cachar district, but when they arrived or how long they stayed we
+have no means of ascertaining. They occupied the first two or three
+ranges of the Burrails and stoutly contested possession with the
+Naga invaders, and after they had been dispossessed made a gallant
+attempt to retrieve their affairs by an attack on Sephema. They
+entered the hills by the Diphoo gorge and constructed a paved road
+up to the neighbourhood of Sephema where they would probably have
+succeeded in their operations, but that the Sephema Nagas, skilful
+then as now, in the use of poison, poisoned the waters and destroyed
+a large portion of the invaders; the rest retreated to Dimapur, and
+eventually left the neighbourhood and settled in Cachar, to which they
+gave their name. There are still a good many Cacharees on the banks
+of the Kopiti, in the neighbourhood of Mohung-dee-jood. They are a
+fine hardy race, and in my time the Naga Hills police was largely
+recruited from them. Under Captain Butler they did good service,
+and would have gone anywhere when led by him. [10] The Cacharees were
+governed formerly by a race of despotic chiefs.
+
+
+
+KUKIS.
+
+The Kukis are a wandering race consisting of several tribes who
+have long been working up from the South. They were first heard
+of as Kukis, in Manipur, between 1830 and 1840; though tribes of
+the same race had long been subject to the Rajah of Manipur. The
+new immigrants began to cause anxiety about the year 1845, and
+soon poured into the hill tracts of Manipur in such numbers, as to
+drive away many of the older inhabitants. Fortunately, the political
+agent (at this time Lieutenant afterwards Colonel McCulloch) [11]
+was a man well able to cope with the situation. Cool and resolute,
+he at once realised and faced the difficulty. Manipur in those days,
+owing to intestine quarrels, could have done nothing, and the Rajah
+Nur Singh gladly handed over the management of the new arrivals to him.
+
+Seeing that the Kukis had been driven north by kindred but more
+powerful tribes, and that their first object was to secure land for
+cultivation; McCulloch, as they arrived, settled them down, allotting
+to them lands in different places according to their numbers, and where
+their presence would be useful on exposed frontiers. He advanced them
+large sums from his own pocket, assigning different duties to each
+chief's followers. Some were made into irregular troops, others were
+told off to carry loads according to the customs of the state. Thus
+in time many thousands of fierce Kukis were settled down as peaceful
+subjects of Manipur, and Colonel McCulloch retained supreme control
+over them to the last. So great was his influence, that he had only
+to send round his silver mounted dao (Burmese sword) as a kind of
+fiery cross, when all able-bodied men at once assembled at his summons.
+
+Colonel McCulloch's policy of planting Kuki settlements on exposed
+frontiers, induced the Government of Bengal to try a similar
+experiment, and a large colony of Kukis were settled in 1855 in
+the neighbourhood of Langting, to act as a barrier for North Cachar
+against the raids of the Angami Nagas. The experiment answered well
+to a certain extent, and would have answered better, had we been
+a little less timid. The Kukis are strictly monarchical, and their
+chiefs are absolutely despotic, and may murder or sell their subjects
+into slavery without a murmur of dissent. Their original home cannot
+be correctly ascertained, but there seem to be traces of them as
+far south as the Malay peninsula. They are readily distinguishable
+from the Nagas, and are braver men. Their women are often very fair,
+and wear their hair in a long thick plait down the back. The men are
+mostly copper coloured, and have often good features.
+
+
+
+KUTCHA NAGAS.
+
+The tribe we call Kutcha Nagas, very much resemble the Angamis,
+though of inferior physique. They are closely allied to the Nagas
+in Manipur, as well as to the Angamis, and probably were pushed in
+front of the latter from the Northern North-East, as the Kukis were
+forced in by the pressure of stronger tribes to their South. They
+have always been less warlike than their powerful neighbours, though
+they could be troublesome at times.
+
+
+
+ANGAMI NAGAS.
+
+A strong built, hardy, active race, the men averaging 5 feet 8 inches
+to 6 feet in height, and the women tall in proportion. In colour they
+vary from a rich brown to a yellowish or light brown. They have a
+manly independent bearing, and are bred up to war from their earliest
+years. While the Kukis are monarchists, the Nagas are republicans,
+and their Peumahs, or chiefs, are elected, and though they often
+have great influence, they are in theory, only primus inter pares,
+and are liable at any time to be displaced. Practically they often
+remain in office for years, and are greatly respected.
+
+Where the Angamis came from must be uncertain till the languages
+of our Eastern frontier are scientifically analysed. The late
+Mr. Damant, a man of great talent and powers of research, had
+a valuable paper regarding them in hand, but it perished in the
+insurrection of 1879. The probability is, that they came originally
+from the south-eastern corner of Thibet.
+
+Some of the Maories of New Zealand reminded me of the Angamis. The
+well-defined nose is a prominent characteristic of the last,
+as it is of some of the inhabitants of Polynesia. The people of
+Samagudting--that is, the adults in 1874--told me that they had come
+from the north-east, and were the seventh generation that had been
+there. When they first occupied their village, the site was, they
+said, covered with the bones and tusks of elephants which had come
+there to die.
+
+Had I lived longer among the Nagas, I should have liked to have made
+deeper researches into their language and past history; as it was,
+all my time was taken up with my active duties, and I had not a moment
+to spare.
+
+Their dress is a short kilt of black cotton cloth, ornamented, in
+the case of warriors, with rows of cowrie shells. They have handsome
+cloths of dark blue and yellow thrown over their shoulders in cold
+weather. Their arms are spears and heavy short swords, called by the
+Assamese name of dao; helmets and shields of wicker work (used chiefly
+to cover the more vulnerable parts of the body) and sometimes clothed
+with skins of tigers or bears. They have also tails of wood decorated
+with goats' hair dyed red. The warspears are plain; the ornamental
+ones are covered with goats' hair dyed red, and are sometimes used in
+battle. Their drill is of a most complicated style, and requires much
+practice. An Angami in full war paint is a very formidable-looking
+individual. They are divided into many clans. Several clans often
+inhabit one village, and it frequently happened that two clans thus
+situated were at deadly feud with each other.
+
+Blood feuds were common among all the hill-tribes, but the system
+was carried to excess among the Angamis. Life for life was the rule,
+and until each of the opposing parties had lost an equal number,
+peace was impossible, and whenever members of one village met any
+belonging to the other, hostilities were sure to result. Sometimes
+an attempt was made to bring about a reconciliation, but then it
+frequently happened that the number of slain to the credit of each
+were unequal. Mozuma and Sephema might be at war, and Mozuma killed
+five, whereas Sephema had killed only four. Sephema says, "I must
+kill one more to make the balance, then I will treat for peace,"
+so war continues. Some day Sephema has a chance, but kills two
+instead of the one that was required; this gives her the advantage,
+and Mozuma refuses to treat. So it goes on interminably. The position
+of a small village at war with a large one, was often deplorable as
+no one dared to leave the village except under a strong escort. I
+once knew a case of some Sephema men at feud with Mozuma, hiring two
+women of the powerful village of Konoma to escort them along the road
+as thus accompanied no one dare touch them.
+
+Once at Piphima, when my assistant Mr. Needham was encamped there,
+parties from two hostile villages suddenly met each other and rushed
+to arms. He was equal to the occasion and stopped the combat. I made
+it a criminal offence to fight on our road called the "Political Path,"
+and it was generally respected as neutral ground.
+
+No Angami could assume the "toga virilis," in this case the kilt
+ornamented with cowrie shells, already described, until he had slain
+an enemy, and in the more powerful villages no girl could marry a man
+unless he was so decorated. The cowrie ornaments were taken off when
+a man was mourning the death of a relation.
+
+To kill a baby in arms, or a woman, was accounted a greater feat
+than killing a man, as it implied having penetrated to the innermost
+recesses of an enemy's country, whereas a man might be killed anywhere
+by a successful ambush. I knew a man who had killed sixty women and
+children, when on one occasion he happened to come upon them after
+all the men had left the village on a hunting expedition.
+
+Every Naga who was able to murder an enemy did so, and received great
+commendation for it by all his friends. Later, when I was in Manipur,
+I had a pleasant young fellow as interpreter. He often took my boys
+out for a walk when he had nothing else to do, and was a careful,
+trustworthy man. Once I asked him how many people he had killed (he
+wore the cowrie kilt, a sure sign he had killed some one). A modest
+blush suffused his face as if he did not like to boast of such a good
+deed, and he mildly said, "Two, a woman and a girl!"
+
+The Angamis when on friendly terms are an agreeable people to deal
+with, polite, courteous, and hospitable. I never knew any one take
+more pains or more successfully not to hurt the susceptibilities of
+those they are talking to, indeed they show a tact and good feeling
+worthy of imitation. My wife and I soon knew all the villagers well,
+and often visited them, when we were always offered beer, and asked to
+come into their verandahs and sit down, and just as we were leaving,
+our host would search the hen's nests to give us a few eggs. The beer
+we never took, but many Europeans like it and find it wholesome. It
+is made of rice and has rather a sharp taste. Their houses are large
+substantial structures built of wood and bamboo thatched with grass,
+and the eaves come low down. Houses with any pretensions always
+have verandahs. Besides the houses, there are granaries, often at
+a distance for fear of fire. The Angamis bury their dead in and
+about their villages, and for a time, decorate them with some of the
+belongings of the deceased. Naturally they strongly object to the
+graves being disturbed, and in making alterations I was careful not
+to hurt their feelings.
+
+The more powerful villages in the interior of the hills have a large
+area of cultivation on terraces cut out of the hillside, and carefully
+irrigated. Some of the terraces go up the hillsides to a great height,
+and show considerable skill in their formation. On these terraces
+lowland rice is grown and is very productive. Some of the smaller
+outlying villages like Samagudting have only ordinary hill cultivation,
+where upland rice is grown. The terrace land used to be greatly valued,
+and was often sold at prices equal to L22 to L25 per acre!
+
+The Angamis, in common with most hill-tribes that I have come across,
+have a vague indefinite belief in a supreme being, but look on him as
+too great and good to injure them. They believe themselves also to be
+subject to the influence of evil spirits, whom it is their constant
+endeavour to appease by sacrifices. Every misfortune is, as a rule,
+ascribed to evil spirits, and much money is spent on appeasing them,
+the usual way being to offer fowls, of which the head, feet, and
+entrails are offered to the demon, with many incantations. The other
+parts are eaten by the sacrificer.
+
+All kinds of animals are readily eaten by the Angamis, and those dying
+a natural death are not rejected. Dogs' flesh is highly esteemed. When
+a man wants to have a delicate dish, he starves his dog for a day to
+make him unusually voracious, and then cooks a huge dish of rice on
+which he feeds the hungry beast. As soon as the dog has eaten his
+fill, he is knocked on the head and roasted, cut up and divided,
+and the rice being taken out, is considered the bonne bouche. The
+Manipur dogs are regularly bred for sale to the hill-tribes, Nagas
+included, and a portion of the bazaar, or market, used to be allotted
+to them. I have seen a string of nineteen dogs being led away to be
+strangled. Poor things, they seemed to realise that all was not well.
+
+The Naga women are not handsome but very pleasant-looking, and
+many of the girls are pretty, but soon age with the hard toil they
+have to perform; working in the fields and carrying heavy loads up
+endless hills. They have plenty of spirit and can generally hold
+their own. They do not marry till they are nearly or quite grown
+up. Divorce can be easily obtained when there is an equal division of
+goods. Often a young man takes advantage of this, and marries a rich
+old widow, and soon divorces her, receiving half her property, when he
+is in a position to marry a nice young girl. The tribal name of the
+Angami Nagas is "Tengima." Naga is a name given by the inhabitants
+of the plains, and in the Assamese language means "naked." As some
+of the Naga tribes are seen habitually in that state, the name was
+arbitrarily applied to them all. It is the greatest mistake to connect
+them with the snake worshippers, "Nag Bungsees" of India. Neither Nagas
+or Manipuris, or any tribes on the eastern frontier, are addicted to
+this worship, or have any traditions connected with it, and any snake,
+cobra (Nag) or otherwise, would receive small mercy at their hands. The
+slightest personal acquaintance with the Assamese and their language,
+would have dispelled this myth for ever.
+
+The Nagas are skilful iron-workers and turn out very handsome
+spears. Their women weave substantial and pretty coloured cloths,
+and every man knows enough of rough carpentering to enable him to
+build his house, and make pestles and mortars for husking rice. They
+make rough pottery, but without the potter's wheel.
+
+After Ghumbeer Singh's Expedition, our next dealings with the Angamis
+were in 1833, when Lieut. Gordon, adjutant of the Manipur Levy,
+accompanied the Rajah of Manipur with a large force of Manipuris into
+the Angami hills. On this occasion, Kohima and other villages were
+subdued, as already stated, and an annual tribute exacted by Manipur.
+
+So far as the British territories were concerned, Naga raids went
+on as usual, but nothing was done till early in January 1839, when
+Mr. Grange, sub-Assistant Commissioner of the Nowgong District,
+was despatched with a detachment of the First Assam Sebundies (now
+43rd Goorkha Light Infantry), fifty men of the Cachar Infantry,
+and some Shan Militia, with orders to try and repress these annual
+outrages. His expedition was ill supplied, but fortunately returned
+without any severe losses. His route lay through North Cachar to
+Berrimeh; thence, via Razepima to Samagudting and Mohung Deejood;
+beyond gaining local knowledge there was no result, except perhaps
+to show that a well-armed party could march where it liked through
+the hills.
+
+In December 1839, Mr. Grange again visited the hills, and, excepting
+1843, an expedition was sent into the hills every year till 1846
+when a post was permanently established at Samagudting. None of these
+expeditions had any really satisfactory result. The Angamis submitted
+to our troops at the time, and directly we retreated, murder and the
+carrying off of slaves re-commenced. The establishment of the post
+at Samagudting had the effect of improving our relations with the
+people of that village; and Mozuma was always inclined to be friendly;
+beyond this nothing was accomplished.
+
+In August 1849, Bog Chand Darogal, a brave Assamese who was in charge
+of Samagudting, was murdered by one of the clans of Mozuma, owing
+to the rash way in which he interfered in a dispute with another
+clan, which latter remained faithful to us, and thus led to another
+expedition on a large scale. Finally, in December 1850, a large force
+was sent up with artillery. Kohima, which had sent a challenge, was
+destroyed on February 11th, 1851. In this last engagement over three
+hundred Nagas were killed, and our prestige thoroughly established. We
+might then, with great advantage to the people and our own districts,
+have occupied a permanent post, and while protecting our districts
+that had suffered so sorely from Naga raids, have spread civilisation
+far and wide among the hill-tribes. Of course we did nothing of the
+kind; on such occasions the Government of India always does the wrong
+thing; it was done now, and, instead of occupying a new position,
+we retreated, even abandoning our old post at Samagudting, and only
+maintaining a small body of Shan Militia at Dimapur. The Nagas ascribed
+our retreat to fear, the periodical raids on our unfortunate villages
+were renewed, and unheeded by us; and finally, in 1856, we withdrew
+the detachment from Dimapur and abandoned the post.
+
+After that, the Nagas ran riot, and one outrage after another was
+committed. In 1862 the guard and village of Borpathar were attacked
+and, one Sepoy and thirteen villagers killed and two children carried
+off as slaves, but no notice was taken; it was not till 1866 that,
+wearied out by repeated outrages and insults, we determined to
+establish ourselves in the hills, and once for all put down raiding.
+
+A kind of vague boundary between Manipur and the Naga Hills had been
+laid down in 1842, by Lieutenant Biggs on our part, and Captain Gordon
+on the part of the Durbar, but in 1851, when utterly sick of Naga
+affairs, we determined on a policy of non-intervention, permission in
+writing was given to the Durbar to extend its authority over the Naga
+villages on our side of the border. This must be remembered later
+on. Failing any intention on our part to annex the hills, it would
+have been good policy to have re-organised the Manipur territory,
+and to have aided the Maharajah to annex and subdue as much as he
+could under certain restrictions. Had this been done we should have
+saved ourselves much trouble. Personally, I would rather see the
+Naga Hills properly administered by ourselves, but the strong rule
+of Manipur would have been far better than the state of things that
+prevailed for many years after 1851.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Value of keeping a promise--Episode of Sallajee--Protection given
+    to small villages, and the large ones defied--"Thorough Government
+    of India" views--A plea for Christian education in the Naga Hills.
+
+
+Almost from the day I took charge, I let it be known that I was,
+as natives say, "a man of one word," and that if I said a thing,
+I meant it. If I promised a thing, whether a present or punishment,
+the man got it; and if I refused any request, months of importunity
+would not move me. This rule saved me much time and worry; instead
+of being pestered for weeks with some petition, in the hope that my
+patience would be worn out, I simply said Yes, or No, and the people
+soon learned that my decision was final. Later on, during the Naga
+Hills campaign, I found that my ways had not been forgotten, and this
+made dealing with the people much simpler than it might have been.
+
+A certain number of the villages kept one or two men, as the case
+might be, constantly in attendance on me to represent them. These were
+called delegates, and received ten rupees each per mensem. I gave the
+strictest orders to these men not to engage in their tribal raids,
+but to remain absolutely neutral. Sephema had two delegates, Sejile
+and Sallajee by name, and, one day, it was reported to me that the
+last had joined in a raid by his village on Mozuma, and I instantly
+summoned him to attend and put him on his trial for disobeying a lawful
+order. Some wise-acres in the place shook their heads, and doubted if
+I were strong enough to punish, or the advisability of doing so; but
+I held that an order must be obeyed, otherwise, it was no use issuing
+orders, also, that this was an opportunity of making an example. Of
+course it was an experiment, as no one had been punished before for
+a similar offence, and I well knew that resistance on his part would
+mean that to assert my authority I must attack and destroy Sephema,
+but I felt the time had come for vigorous action, and was prepared to
+go through with it. I tried Sallajee, found him guilty, and sentenced
+him to six months' imprisonment in Tezpore jail. In giving judgment,
+I said, "You have not been guilty of a disgraceful offence, therefore,
+I do not sentence you to hard labour, and shall not have you bound or
+handcuffed like a thief; but, remember, you cannot escape me, so do
+not be foolish enough to run away from the man in charge of you." I
+then sent him in charge of two police sepoys through one hundred miles
+of forest, and he underwent his imprisonment without attempting to get
+away. Right thankful I was that my experiment succeeded. Sallajee lived
+to fight against us, during the campaign in the Naga Hills in 1879-80.
+
+The orders of the Government of India were strictly against our
+responsibilities being extended. We took tribute from Samagudting,
+but it was the only village we considered as under our direct rule,
+and that only so long as it suited us. Before leaving Calcutta, the
+Foreign Secretary said to me emphatically, when I urged an extension
+of our sway--"but those villages (the Angami Nagas) are not British
+territory, and we do not want to extend the 'red line.'"
+
+However, Government may lay down rules, but as long as they are not
+sound, they cannot be kept to by artificial bonds, and sooner or later
+events prove stronger than theories. The fact is, that no Government of
+late years had ever interested itself in the Eastern Frontier tribes,
+except so far as to coax them or bribe them to keep quiet. The Abors
+on the banks of the Burrhampooter had long been paid "blackmail,"
+and any subterfuge was resorted to, that would stave off the day of
+reckoning which was nevertheless inevitable.
+
+As regards the Nagas, this timidity was highly reprehensible. We had
+acquired such a prestige, that the least sign of vigorous action on
+our part was sure to be crowned with success, so long as we did not
+make some foolish mistake.
+
+The people in the hills knew that we objected to the system of raiding,
+and could not understand why, such being the case, we did not put it
+down, and ascribed our not doing so to weakness, wherein they were
+right, and inability wherein they were wrong. The less powerful
+villages would at any time have been glad of our protection, and
+one of the most powerful--Mozuma, was anxious to become subject to
+us. Offers of submission had been made once or twice, but no one liked
+to take the responsibility of going against the policy and orders
+of the Government. At last an event occurred which brought things
+to a crisis, and forced us either to adopt a strong policy, or make
+ourselves contemptible by a confession of weakness, and indifference.
+
+Towards the end of March 1874, a deputation came to me from the
+village of Mezeffina begging for protection against Mozuma, with whom
+they had a feud, and from whom for some reason or other they daily
+expected an attack. They offered to become British subjects and pay
+revenue in return for protection. I considered the matter carefully,
+and before I had given my decision, crowds of old people, and women
+carrying their children, came in asking me to save their lives. I at
+once decided to grant their request, and promised them what they asked,
+on condition that they paid up a year's tribute in advance. This they
+at once did, and I immediately sent a messenger to proclaim to Mozuma
+that the people of Mezeffina were British subjects, and to threaten
+them or any one else with dire vengeance if they dared to lay hands
+on them. Our new subjects asked me and my wife, to go out and receive
+their submission in person, an invitation which we accepted, and next
+day a large number of men turned up to carry my wife, and our baggage,
+and that of our escort, consisting of twenty men.
+
+The Mezeffina men rested for the night in Samagudting, and early on
+the following morning we started, and reached the village in good
+time, where we were received with great demonstrations of respect. We
+spent the night there, and then were conveyed back to Samagudting,
+after a very pleasant visit.
+
+I did not underrate the grave responsibility that I incurred in
+going against the policy of Government, but I felt it was utterly
+impossible that I, as their representative, could quietly stand by,
+and see a savage massacre perpetrated, within sight of our station of
+Samagudting. There is no doubt that this would have speedily followed
+had I sent the people away without acceding to their wishes. Of course,
+I might have used my influence with Mozuma to prevent a raid in this
+particular instance, but that would have been giving protection, and,
+I argued, if we give protection, let us get a little revenue to help
+to pay for it. Why should all the advantage be on one side? Besides
+a half-and-half policy would never have succeeded. "Thorough" should
+be the motto of all who deal with savage and half-civilised races;
+a promise to refer to Government is of little avail when people are
+thinking of each other's blood. Action, immediate action, is what
+is required. A failure to realise this, brought on later the Mozuma
+expedition of 1877-78, in which a valuable officer lost his life.
+
+Besides the obvious objections I have pointed out, any attempt to make
+terms in favour of one village after another by negotiations with
+their adversaries, would have involved us in so many complications,
+that it would probably have ended in a combination against us.
+
+I reported the matter to Government, and before I could receive any
+answer, the village of Sitekima which had a feud with Sephema came
+in and asked for the same favour to be accorded to it, as had been
+granted to Mezeffina. I accordingly took them over on the same terms,
+and again issued a proclamation calling on all people to respect
+their rights as British subjects.
+
+Soon after I heard from the Chief Commissioner of Assam, directing
+me to take over no more villages without a reference. However, this
+could not be, there was no telegraph in those days, and the tide in
+favour of asking for our protection had set in in earnest, and must be
+taken at the flood. "Vestigia nulla retrorsum" there was no retreat;
+and having acted according to my judgment for the best interests of
+the State, I felt bound to take further responsibility on myself,
+when necessary. Accordingly when the little village of Phenina applied
+for protection and offered revenue, I at once acceded, and accepted
+their allegiance as British subjects, with the result that they were
+left in peace by their powerful neighbours, and had no more anxiety
+as to their safety. Phenina was followed by several other villages,
+to whom I granted the same terms.
+
+The Mozuma Nagas were always an intelligent set of men, and liked
+to be in the forefront of any movement. Seeing the part that other
+villages were taking, they came forward and offered to pay revenue,
+if we would establish a guard of police in their village, and set up
+a school for their children to attend. This was a question involving
+a considerable expenditure of money, and as they were not in need of
+protection, I felt that I could not accede to their request without
+further reference, but I sent on the proposal to Government with a
+strong recommendation that it should be adopted. The consideration of
+it was put off for a time, and when very tardily my recommendation
+was accepted, the Mozuma people had, as I predicted, changed their
+minds. Such cases are of constant occurrence. When will our rulers
+take the story of the Sibylline books to heart?
+
+The question of education generally, was one that greatly
+interested me, my success in Keonjhur [12] in the tributary Mehals
+of Orissa, where I had introduced schools, having been very great. In
+combination with other suggestions, I strongly urged the advisability
+of establishing a regular system of education, including religious
+instruction, under a competent clergyman of the Church of England. I
+pointed out that the Nagas had no religion; that they were highly
+intelligent and capable of receiving civilisation; that with it
+they would want a religion, and that we might just as well give
+them our own, and make them in that way a source of strength, by
+thus mutually attaching them to us. Failing this, I predicted that,
+following the example of other hill-tribes, they would sooner or later
+become debased Hindoos or Mussulmans, and in the latter case, as we
+knew by experience, be a constant source of trouble and annoyance,
+Mussulman converts in Assam and Eastern Bengal, being a particularly
+disagreeable and bigoted set. My suggestion did not find favour with
+the authorities, and I deeply regret it. A fine, interesting race
+like the Angamis, might, as a Christian tribe, occupy a most useful
+position on our Eastern Frontier, and I feel strongly that we are not
+justified in allowing them to be corrupted and gradually "converted"
+by the miserable, bigoted, caste-observing Mussulman of Bengal, men who
+have not one single good quality in common with the manly Afghans, and
+other real Mussulman tribes. I do not like to think it, but, unless we
+give the Nagas a helping hand in time, such is sure to be their fate,
+and we shall have ourselves to thank when they are utterly corrupted.
+
+The late General Dalton, C.S.I., when Commissioner of Chota Nagpure,
+did his utmost to aid Christian Mission among the wild Kols; his
+argument being like mine, that they wanted a religion, and that
+were they Christians, they would be a valuable counterpoise in time
+of trouble to the vast non-Christian population of Behar. In the
+same way it cannot be doubted, that a large population of Christian
+hill-men between Assam and Burmah, would be a valuable prop to the
+State. Properly taught and judiciously handled, the Angamis would
+have made a fine manly set of Christians, of a type superior to most
+Indian native converts, and probably devoted to our rule. As things
+stand at present, I fear they will be gradually corrupted and lose the
+good qualities, which have made them attractive in the past, and that,
+as time goes on, unless some powerful counter influence is brought to
+bear on them, they will adopt the vile, bigoted type of Mahommedanism
+prevalent in Assam and Cachar, and instead of becoming a tower of
+strength to us, be a perpetual weakness and source of annoyance. I
+earnestly hope that I may be wrong, and that their future may be as
+bright a one as I could wish for them.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Dimapur--A terrible storm--Cultivation--Aggression by Konoma--My
+    ultimatum--Konoma submits--Birth of a son--Forest flowers--A fever
+    patient--Proposed change of station--Leave Naga Hills--March
+    through the forest--Depredation by tigers--Calcutta--Return
+    to England.
+
+
+Once more before the weather began to be unpleasantly hot, we went
+down to Dimapur that I might inspect the road and a rest house being
+built at Nowkatta. Dimapur though hot, was pleasant enough in the
+evening, when I used to row my wife about on the large tank in a
+canoe which just held us both. We could see a few feet below the
+surface, the remains of the post set up when a tank is dedicated to
+the deity. This post is usually many feet above the water, but here
+it had rotted away from age. On a tree close to the rest house I shot
+a chestnut coloured flying squirrel.
+
+One sultry afternoon I rode out alone to Nowkatta. About half-way
+I was stopped by a sudden storm, one of the most terrific I have
+ever seen; the wind howled through the forest, and the trees swayed
+to and fro literally like blades of grass. As the storm increased,
+trees were torn up by the roots right and left, and some that were
+very firmly rooted were shattered in pieces. Many of these trees
+were 80 to 120 feet in height, and large in proportion, but the
+wind was so high that I never heard the sound of the crash. I hardly
+expected to escape being crushed by a falling tree, and nothing but
+the extreme activity of my pony, a little Manipuri, saved me. I was
+at length enabled to get on to Nowkatta, but as I returned, I had
+much difficulty in making my way through the masses of fallen trees
+which formed an obstacle often six feet in height, and I could only
+pass them by penetrating the dense underwood, and riding round one end.
+
+I returned to Dimapur later than I expected and drenched by the
+soaking rain. Next day we went back to Samagudting very glad to
+be again in a cooler atmosphere. We both paid for our visit to the
+lowlands in a sharp attack of intermittent fever. Luckily, my wife
+speedily recovered; but it told on my system, already saturated with
+malaria and was the forerunner of constant attacks.
+
+Except for its unhealthiness, Dimapur was a nice place, and, if
+properly opened out, and cultivated, the country would be far more
+salubrious. For this reason I advocated families being induced to
+settle there as cultivators; and I had a scheme for establishing a
+Police Militia Reserve in that district. I thought that a certain
+number of the Naga Hills police might with advantage be discharged
+every year and enlisted as reserve men, liable to serve when needed
+in case of trouble; a reduced rate of pay to be given to each man,
+and a grant of land to cultivate. I believe the system would have
+worked well, but it was not sanctioned.
+
+An incident occurred in the month of August which might have proved
+serious. A native of a Kutcha Naga village within sight of Samagudting
+came to complain that, while gathering wild tea-seed for sale, he
+had been driven off by a Konoma Naga. Konoma, though not the most
+populous village, had long been considered the most powerful and
+warlike in the hills, and a threat from one of its members was almost a
+sentence of death to a man from a weak village. The Merema clan also,
+one of the worst in the hills for lawless deeds, had never made its
+submission to Captain Butler, though it had on one occasion to his
+predecessor. On hearing the man's complaint, I at once sent off a
+message by a Naga calling upon the chiefs of Konoma to come in to me,
+and also to cease molesting their neighbours; but the man returned,
+saying that they refused to come in, and intended to do as they liked
+with the tea-seed, as it was theirs. This was more than I could put up
+with, and I selected a particularly trustworthy man, a naik (corporal)
+in the police named Kurum Singh, [13] who knew the Naga language, and
+would, I was convinced, speak out fearlessly, and deliver my message. I
+sent him off at once to Konoma to call upon the head-men to come in
+without delay, and make their humble submission to me within a day
+and a half of receiving the summons, failing which I would attack and
+destroy their village. Kurum Singh left, and I felt rather anxious,
+as Konoma contained five times as many warriors as I had police all
+told, and it occupied a strong position; however, I felt I had done
+my duty. It was a great satisfaction when Kurum Singh returned,
+saying that the chiefs were coming in, and they did so within the
+stipulated time, and made their submission and presented me with a
+large state spear as a token of it. They also humbly apologised and
+promised never to molest that Kutcha Naga village again; and when I
+spoke of the Queen, begged me to write to her and say, that she must
+not believe any idle tales against the Konoma men, as they would be
+her humble servants. It was a satisfactory ending to what might have
+been a troublesome business. The state spear now ornaments my hall.
+
+On the 23rd June, my wife presented me with a son, and he being the
+first child of pure European parentage born in the hills, the Nagas
+of Samagudting took great interest in the baby, and old Yatsole the
+Peumah, said he should be their chief and named him "Naga Rajah." The
+friendly women and girls from the village constantly came to see
+him. We liked the hills and the people, and the work so much that we
+both felt we could willingly have passed our lives among them. All
+the same, our accommodation was really most wretched, and food was
+bad and scarce, and water scarcer. As the rainy season advanced the
+place grew more and more unhealthy, and having a baby to attend to,
+my wife never left Samagudting. I continued to go down to Dimapur
+occasionally, and sometimes rode out with my friend Needham to inspect
+the path that was being cut to Mohung Deejood and a rest house being
+built at a place in the forest on that road, called Borsali. It was
+pleasant to have a companion during a long lonely ride. Needham was an
+indefatigable worker, and always ready for a dash. He made a capital
+frontier officer, and has since greatly distinguished himself on the
+N.-E. Frontier.
+
+Towards the end of August, the Vanda Caerulea orchids began to come
+into flower. There was a magnificent plant of them in a large old tree
+on the summit of the hill, indeed the most splendid specimen of their
+kind that I ever saw; but wild flowers, many really beautiful, were
+generally procurable, especially a small snow-white flower rather like
+a periwinkle that grew in the jungle on a small ever-green bush. Ferns,
+including maidenhair, were very plentiful, and we made collections
+of them in our morning and evening walks. These walks often led us
+past stray huts, and once my wife was asked to come into one and
+prescribe for a sick Naga woman. We both entered it and finding that
+the woman had fever, we told her husband to keep her cool and quiet,
+and promised some medicine. When we again went to see her, the hut,
+about nine feet by seven feet in size, was full of little fires on the
+floor, over which several Nagas were drying strips of flesh from an
+elephant that had been killed a few miles away. The temperature must
+have been about 110 degrees, so little wonder that the poor woman was
+no better. The husband said she would not take her medicine, and when
+in our presence he attempted to give it she hit him on the head; yet he
+wore the warrior's kilt, so had taken at least one life. When my wife
+sat down by her and gave her the medicine she took it readily. Towards
+the end of the rainy season many were laid low by fever. Natives of
+other parts of India until thoroughly acclimatised, suffer greatly
+from the diseases peculiar to jungle districts, and our servants were
+not exceptions to the rule. Once acclimatised, a Hindoostani seems
+able to stand anything. It used to be said in my regiment, the 1st
+Assam Light Infantry Battalion, now 42nd, that Hindoostani recruits
+spent their first three years' service in hospital! I am sure that
+something of the same kind might have been said of those who came to
+the Naga Hills before the headquarters were removed to Kohima.
+
+Captain Butler, recognising the unsuitableness of Samagudting for
+a station, had recommended the removal of the headquarters to Woka,
+in the Lotah Naga country, and about sixty-three miles from Kohima. I
+spoke to him on the subject, and pointed out the superior advantages of
+Kohima as a central position, dominating the Angami Naga country. He
+quite agreed with me, but said he had advocated Woka as being nearer
+the plains, nearer water carriage, and altogether a more comfortable
+situation, especially for the officers. I went into the whole subject
+most carefully, and before leaving the Naga Hills I thought it right to
+record my opinion in a memorandum to the Government of Assam. This I
+did, pointing out as forcibly as I could the very superior advantages
+of Kohima, and urging most strongly that it should be adopted as our
+headquarters station in the Naga Hills. As I was only the officiating
+agent, I could not expect my views to carry as much weight as Captain
+Butler's, but convinced as I was, I was bound to state them. The
+question was not settled for some years when Kohima was the site
+selected, and it has ever since been the headquarters station.
+
+I had never got over the attack of fever I had in April, and as
+the rainy season advanced, and we were for days together enveloped
+in mist, I had constant attacks, with other complications, and as
+Captain Butler was coming out in November, and the doctor strongly
+recommended me to go to England again, I determined to apply for
+leave. My friend Needham had gone on leave to Shillong, so I could
+not think of starting till he returned. He was due at Samagudting
+early in November, and I prepared to leave then. It was with most
+sincere regret that we made arrangements for starting. We had got
+used to the discomforts of the place and had been very happy there
+and liked the people, and felt that they liked us; the cold weather
+too was just beginning and everything around us looked beautiful.
+
+I had determined to march straight through the forest to Doboka, and
+thence take boat down the Kullung river to Gowhatty. It was a dreadful
+march to undertake, along a mere track untraversed by any European for
+years, but my wife liked the idea of it, and it was shorter than the
+route via Nigriting. On November 6th, we reluctantly said "good-bye"
+to all our kind friends at Samagudting and marched to Dimapur, where
+we halted next day to get all our things into order. Some of the
+chiefs of Samagudting accompanied us so far on our way and bade us a
+sorrowful adieu on the 7th. One old fellow took quite an affectionate
+farewell of our baby Dick. When I saw him again in 1879, he was blind,
+and one of his pretty little girls was dying.
+
+We marched through dense forest on the 8th to Borsali, my wife
+riding and carrying the baby in her arms, there being no other mode
+of progression along such a bad road. On the 9th after seven hours'
+actual marching, we reached Mohung Deejood, a place prettily situated
+on the banks of the Jumoona river with the last speck of the Rengma
+Hills standing out in high relief behind the village, but at some
+distance from it. Next day we again had a tiring march of eleven hours,
+including a halt for breakfast at a place called "Silbheta" where
+there are splendid waterfalls, and did not reach our halting place,
+Bokuleea, till 6 P.M. The last two marches had been through a country
+devastated by tigers which had literally eaten up the population; each
+day we passed deserted village sites. At Bokuleea we made rafts and
+floated down the river to Doboka, which we reached on November 13th.
+
+Doboka is situated close to the hill of the same name and was
+a prominent object from Samagudting. There we took boats, and
+travelled in them down the Kullung river. We reached the junction
+with the Burrhampooter at daybreak on November 17th, and Gowhatty
+at midday. I was most thankful to see my wife and child safe in the
+Dak Bungalow after what was for delicate people a perilous journey,
+though an interesting and enjoyable one, through a country hardly ever
+traversed by European officials, and never by women and children. After
+a few days at Gowhatty to rest ourselves, we departed by steamer for
+Goalundo, arriving there early on November 29th, and immediately left
+for Calcutta, which we reached the same evening and went to stay with
+our kind friends the Rivers Thompsons, with whom we had travelled
+out to India in 1873. Glad as we were to be in civilised quarters
+once more after all our wanderings, we could not help regretting the
+kindly genial people we had left, and the beautiful scenery of the
+forest and mountain land, where we had lived so long and so happily.
+
+On arrival in Calcutta, I went before the Medical Board, but not liking
+to go to England again so soon, I applied for three months' leave
+to visit the North-West Provinces for change of air, and we visited
+Benares, Lucknow, Cawnpore, and other towns. I do not attempt to
+describe them, as it has been often done by abler pens than mine. The
+after symptoms of malaria increased, and it was vain to prolong my stay
+in India in the hope of a cure. The Medical Board said my appearance
+was sufficient without examination, so we left Calcutta by the next
+steamer, going by "long sea" to avoid the fatiguing journey across
+India to Bombay. After unusually rough weather in the Mediterranean
+and off the coast of Spain, we landed at Southampton, on March 9th,
+at 9 P.M., and went on to London next morning.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Return to India--Attached to Foreign Office--Imperial assemblage at
+    Delhi--Almorah--Appointed to Manipur--Journey to Shillong--Cherra
+    Poojee--Colonel McCulloch--Question of ceremony.
+
+
+Malaria, and all the evils that follow in its train, are more easily
+acquired than got rid of. Possibly two years in England, including
+four visits to Carlsbad, which high medical authorities seem to
+consider, and very justly, a sine qua non, might give a man a good
+chance if he never again visited a malarious district, otherwise,
+my own experience shows me that two years are nothing. Every time I
+have gone before a Medical Board in London, preparatory to returning
+to duty, their last charge has been, "You must never again go to
+a malarious district!" Medical Boards propose, and Government and
+circumstances dispose.
+
+I stayed at home in a high and healthy part of the Midlands, and left
+for India again in October. I arrived in Calcutta in November, where
+I again suffered from malarious symptoms; but I soon got better,
+and was attached to the Foreign Office, at my own request, extra
+attaches being required for the Imperial Assemblage.
+
+I had the good fortune to see the whole of that gorgeous pageant,
+the like of which this generation will probably never witness again,
+under the most favourable auspices; and though I had on an average
+eighteen hours' work out of each twenty-four, I was well repaid by
+being able to take part in it. I met many old friends, and also became
+acquainted with Salar Jung, Maharajahs Scindiah and Holkar, Sir Dinkur
+Rao, Madhava Rao, and several other now historical celebrities. The
+Viceroy's reception-tent at night was a grand sight, filled with
+gallant soldiers, European and native, and great statesmen.
+
+Among the new arrivals was the Khan of Khelat, an intelligent but
+savage-looking chief, with eyes all about him. I was being constantly
+deputed to carry polite messages from the Viceroy to different chiefs
+and celebrities and to meet them at the railway stations. Among those
+whom I met were the envoy from the Chief of Muscat, also the Siamese
+Ambassador and his suite, a highly intelligent and sensible set of
+men. I remember well the rough-and-ready way in which the younger
+Siamese officers looked after their luggage and effects. They were
+provided with a handsome set of tents, and all dined together at
+one table in European fashion, in the most civilised way, with the
+British officer attached to them.
+
+I stayed at Delhi till the assemblage broke up, and after a few days
+in Calcutta with the Foreign Office, went to Bombay to meet my wife,
+who, with our two boys, arrived there on February 2nd. We at once set
+out on our way to Almorah in the Himalayas, where I was permitted to
+reside for a year and compile Foreign Office records.
+
+We were delayed at Moradabad for a few days, as the passes were covered
+with snow. At last we started, and found Nynee Tal deep in snow, and
+the lake frozen. Next day we marched across the track of an avalanche,
+and the following afternoon reached the Almorah Dak Bungalow, or
+rest house. The ground was covered with snow, and the cold intense,
+the bungalow draughty and very uncomfortable. After a few days we got
+into a house, which Sir H. Ramsey, who was then out on duty in the
+district, had kindly taken for us, and I dived deep into my records,
+consisting of early documents relating to Assam and the Singpho tribes.
+
+As the weather grew warmer, Almorah became very pleasant. I pined
+for active work, but our stay here gave my wife experience in the
+mode of life in India, for which she was afterwards very thankful,
+and she obtained hints on housekeeping subjects from other ladies,
+which were a help to her later on. Life in the Naga Hills was of
+course very different to what it is in more civilised parts of India.
+
+The Foreign Office had my name down in their list for an appointment. I
+could have gone to Manipur when I landed in Calcutta, but was not
+well enough. In July, I had a telegram to say that Lieut. Durand,
+who had lately been appointed, was ill, and must be relieved. Would
+I go? I at once replied in the affirmative, and off we started on
+July 16th. It was very short notice, but changing quarters at short
+notice is part of an Indian official's life, and the prospect of
+work was delightful to me. We had a trying journey down to Calcutta,
+as the rains had not begun in the North-West Provinces, and the heat
+was tremendous. However, we arrived none the worse for it, and stayed
+for a day or two with our kind friends, the Medlicotts.
+
+As Colonel Keatinge, the Chief Commissioner of Assam, wished to see
+me before I went to Manipur, I was ordered to join at Shillong, so
+we proceeded by rail to Goalundo, one night's journey from Calcutta,
+and thence by river steamer to Chuttuk, on the Soorma, where we
+changed into country boats, and proceeded up a smaller river and
+across great jheels or shallow lakes, often passing for miles through
+high grass growing in the water, which hid us from everything, till we
+reached a place called Bholagunj, situated on a river rapidly becoming
+narrower, where we again changed, this time into small canoes, the
+only conveyances that could take us up the rapids, with which the
+river abounds.
+
+From Chuttuk we had come through a country mostly covered with grass
+jungle, twelve to fifteen feet in height; now we passed through
+forest scenery, very lovely fine trees, with festoons of creepers
+and flowers overhanging the stream. At last we reached Thuria Ghat,
+where the ascent of the hills commenced, and there we halted for the
+night in the Dak Bungalow, or rest house. Most places situated as
+Thuria Ghat is, would be deadly on account of malaria, but it seems
+to be an exception, and, as far as I have seen, healthy.
+
+Knowing the servant difficulties in the province of Assam, we had
+brought servants with us from Almorah, men who had implored us to
+take them. When I consented to do so I voluntarily raised their wages
+from fifty to eighty per cent. above what they had been receiving,
+but with the exception of a Dhobee (washerman), and a bearer (a
+compound of housemaid and valet), they all became corrupted by the
+other servants they met at Shillong, and who spoke of Manipur in
+very disparaging terms, so before going farther I let them go, as
+they demanded an enormous increase of wages.
+
+The Dhobee Nunnoo, and the bearer Horna, stuck to me to the very last,
+and proved admirable servants. It was fortunate that we had servants,
+as there were none at Thuria Ghat rest house; as it was, we managed
+very well, and were prepared to march in the morning before the coolies
+were ready to take up our luggage. We had a tiring march up the hill
+to Cherra Poojee; my wife and the children were in baskets on men's
+backs, but I was on foot and felt the march in the intense heat to be
+very fatiguing, though we halted to rest half-way. However, when we
+reached the plateau of Cherra Poojee, 4000 feet above Thuria Ghat,
+the cool air speedily set me right, and we all enjoyed the scenery,
+hills, plains, waterfalls in abundance, deep valleys, and the lowlands
+of Sylhet, covered with water, as far as the eye could reach. We had
+a comfortable bungalow to rest in, and a cool night at last.
+
+Next day we marched to Moflung, 6000 feet above the sea, and then to
+Shillong, where for the next few days we were hospitably entertained by
+the Chief Commissioner, Colonel (now General) Keatinge, V.C., C.S.I.,
+who kindly sent a carriage to meet us on the road. As Colonel Keatinge
+wished me to remain at Shillong for a time, and meet Mr. Carnegy,
+political officer in the Naga Hills, who was coming there later on,
+I arranged to stay, and took a house; so we settled down comfortably
+till the early part of October--a very pleasant arrangement for us
+instead of facing the intense heat of the Cachar Valley in August. It
+gave me a good opportunity of looking over the records of the Chief
+Commissioner's office, where I found much relating to Manipur, but
+I fear that it was lost when the Record Office was burnt down some
+years ago, the copies also having been destroyed in Manipur during
+the rebellion of 1891. At last the day for leaving came, and we packed
+up our things and prepared once more to set off on our travels.
+
+Before leaving, I paid several visits to Colonel McCulloch, who, since
+retiring from the service, had established himself at Shillong, and
+asked his advice on many points, and learned much from him regarding
+Manipur. He very kindly gave his opinion freely on all questions,
+telling me where some of my predecessors had failed, and pointing out
+the pitfalls to be avoided. He added to all his kindness by writing
+to the Maharajah, and telling him that, from what he had seen of me,
+he was sure it would be his fault if we did not get on together.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Start for Manipur--March over the hills--Lovely scenery--View of
+    the valleys--State reception--The Residency--Visitors.
+
+
+Lowremba Subadar, an excellent old fellow, formerly in the service
+of Colonel McCulloch, was sent to Shillong to be in attendance
+on me, and of course to find out all he could about me and report
+the result. Before I left, he sent a note to the Maharajah of my
+requirements in the way of coolies, etc., for our long journey of
+ten days between Cachar and Manipur, and I also intimated that, as
+the representative of the British Government, and as one who well
+knew what was due to me as such, I should expect to be received with
+proper ceremony.
+
+This was a point on which I laid much stress, as my experience had
+taught me that in a native state so tenacious of its dignity and
+ancient customs as Manipur, my future success depended in a great
+measure on my scrupulously requiring all that I was entitled to, and
+as much more as I could get. It had been a complaint against one of
+my predecessors that he had been discourteous, and I determined that
+the Manipuris should not have to complain of me on that score, and in
+my letters I took care to be as courteous and considerate as possible.
+
+On former occasions it had been the custom for a new political agent
+to enter the capital unattended, and to call on the Maharajah the
+next day, the latter repaying the visit a day later. This I did
+not consider sufficient, and I determined that he should come out
+to meet me in state. When Colonel McCulloch returned to Manipur the
+second time, this had been done, Colonel McCulloch being an old and
+intimate friend of the Maharajah. I quoted this as a precedent. I
+tried in vain to get the Foreign Department to back up my request,
+but could not induce them to interfere on my behalf, so I took the
+responsibility on myself, and sent a formal demand to the Maharajah
+to send a high officer--a major commanding a regiment--to meet me on
+the road, and to meet me himself in state at a suitable distance from
+the capital. The result will be described.
+
+All being ready we left Shillong, my wife, nurse and children on men's
+backs as before, for Cherra Poojee, where we arrived the second day;
+thence, on the third day, we went to Thuria Ghat, on by boat via
+Bholagunj, to Sylhet and Cachar. We reached Cachar on October 17th,
+after passing the historical fort of Budderpore, where a battle was
+fought with the Burmese in 1825, and settled down in the bungalow
+of our kind friend Major Boyd who was away. Our coolies arrived on
+October 18th, and we again packed our things and prepared to depart
+on our final march.
+
+We left Cachar for Manipur on October 20th, my wife and the nurse and
+boys in "doolies," a kind of tray four feet long by two in width,
+with sides and ends eight inches in height, supported by two long
+poles running along the bottom of each side, and slung at each end
+to loose bars of wood carried on men's shoulders. The passenger sits
+inside as best he can, and there is a light matting roof thrown over
+to protect him from the weather. To begin with, it is an uncomfortable
+and shaky conveyance, but in time one gets accustomed to it.
+
+Our baggage was carried mostly on men's backs, each load varying from
+sixty to seventy pounds in weight. Altogether we had, I daresay, one
+hundred coolies, as everything we required for a ten days' journey had
+to be carried, in addition to personal baggage and stores for our use
+on arrival. I had provided a tent in case of need, but did not use it,
+as rude huts were provided for us at all the stages along the road. Our
+first halt was at Luckipore, in British territory, and, as usual,
+the first march was the most trying; for servants, coolies, etc.,
+have to learn each other's ways. I had an escort of one hundred men
+of the 35th Native Infantry, under a subadar, as it was expected that
+I might have to go on an expedition soon after my arrival, and these
+men had their own special coolies, so we were a large party altogether.
+
+We halted at Luckipore, as I have said, a few miles from the Hoorung
+Hills and at Jeree Ghat. Next day we left British territory and entered
+Manipur, where we found some huts built for our accommodation. At Jeree
+Ghat the really interesting part of the journey commenced; thence, till
+Bissenpore in the valley of Manipur is reached, the traveller marches
+day after day over hills and across rivers. The first day from Jeree
+Ghat we crossed the Noon-jai-bang range, the summit of which is 1800
+to 1900 feet above the sea from whence a fine view of the next range,
+Kala Naga or in Manipuri, Wy-nang-nong, is obtained. The road which
+was made under the superintendence of Captain (afterwards Colonel)
+Guthrie, of the Bengal Engineers between 1837 and 1844, at the joint
+expense of the British and Manipuri Governments, the former paying
+the larger share, was excellent for foot passengers and pack animals,
+but not wide enough and too steep for wheeled traffic on a large scale.
+
+After descending from Noong-jai-bang we halted on the banks of the
+Mukker river amidst splendid forest, and next day ascended the Kala
+Naga range and halted on the crest close to a Manipuri guard house
+at a height of 3400 feet.
+
+From this spot a magnificent view of the plains of Cachar is
+obtained, and in fine weather, far beyond them the Kasia hills in the
+neighbourhood of Cherra Poojee may be descried. The scene at sunset
+is sometimes magnificent. In the foreground the dark forests, and in
+the far distance a huge bank of golden clouds with their reflection
+in the watery plain, and a mingled mass of colours, green fields,
+purple, crimson, red and gold, all mixed up in such a way as no
+painter would ever attempt to copy. As the sun sinks those colours
+change and re-arrange themselves every minute in quick succession,
+and when at last night closes in, the impression left on the mind is
+one of never-ending wonder and admiration.
+
+From Kala Naga to the Barak river is a very stiff descent, calculated
+to shake the knees of an inexperienced hill-walker, and many is the
+toe-nail lost by the pressure of one's boots. Here as at the Mukker
+and other rivers farther on, the Barak is crossed by cane suspension
+bridges, which vibrate and move at every step. In the dry season
+these rivers are crossed by very cleverly constructed bamboo pontoon
+bridges, but when the rainy season has commenced, they become raging
+torrents, which nothing but a fish could live in, and but for the
+suspension bridges, all communication with the outer world would be
+cut off. The bridge over the Eerung river was one hundred yards in
+length, and like all the others, was, when I first went to Manipur,
+constructed entirely of cane and bamboo, and could by great exertions,
+be finished in three days. During my period of office, wire ropes
+were substituted for the two main cables on which all rested, and the
+strength of the bridges greatly increased thereby. It was an important
+part of my duty to see that both roads and bridges were kept in order.
+
+Our march was interesting but uneventful. We started after breakfast
+and generally reached our halting place in time for a late luncheon
+or afternoon tea. Wherever we halted we had a hut to live in,
+generally in some picturesque spot, one day giving a splendid view
+of hill and valley with nothing but forests in view, on another we
+were perched on a hill overlooking the beautiful Kowpoom valley,
+a sheet of cultivation. At last, on the ninth day after crossing
+the Lai-metol river, and ascending the Lai-metol, we had our first
+view of the valley of Manipur [14] spread out like a huge map at our
+feet. Seen as it was by us at the end of the rainy season, and from a
+height of 2600 feet above it, is a vast expanse of flat land bordered
+by hills, and mostly covered with water, through which the rice crops
+are vigorously growing. To the south the Logtak lake is visible, with
+several island hills in it, while far away to the north-east might be
+seen the glittering roofs of the temples of Imphal, the capital. It
+requires time to take in the view and to appreciate it. In the dry
+season it looks very different with brown, dried-up hills in the
+place of green.
+
+The valley of Manipur possesses a few sacred groves, left, according to
+the universal aboriginal custom, throughout all parts of India that I
+have visited, for the wood spirits, when the land was first cleared;
+but no natural forest. These groves are little isolated patches of
+forest dotted here and there; the villages have plenty of planted
+trees, many of great antiquity, and from the heights above they have
+the appearance of woodland covered with grass. Besides this, all is one
+sheet of cultivation or waste covered with grass. It was once entirely
+cultivated, that is, before the Burmese invasion of 1819, when the
+population of the valley, was from 500 to 1000 per square mile.
+
+We halted to rest on the summit of the Lai-metol, and then descended,
+passing sometimes under a kind of wild apple tree with very
+eatable fruit, and once through a lovely grove of oak trees, called
+"Oui-ong-Moklung," and then, still far below us, saw some elephants
+sent for us by the Maharajah. These elephants were posted at Sebok
+Tannah, [15] a police station where the ground begins to grow level,
+and a mile farther brought us to Bissenpore, where there was a rude
+rest house. Here we halted for the night.
+
+I have mentioned my demand that I should be met with proper
+ceremony. It was of course stoutly resisted, every argument founded
+on old custom, etc., being used against it. However, I stood firm, and
+absolutely refused to go beyond Bissenpore, till the Maharajah gave me
+an assurance that he would do all I required. In the end he gave in,
+and a day before reaching that place, his uncle met me on the road with
+a letter saying that all should be done as I wished. This official,
+by name Samoo Major, became a great friend of mine, and remained so
+till I finally left; he is, alas, I believe, now a prisoner in the
+Andamans, having been supposed to be implicated in the rising in 1891.
+
+The next day we left Bissenpore in good time, and marched the seventeen
+miles to the capital, halting half-way at Phoiching, where I was
+met by some officials. Farther on, some of still higher rank came
+to greet me, and finally, at the entrance to the capital, I was met
+by the Maharajah himself, surrounded by all his sons. A carpet was
+spread with chairs for him and myself, we both of us having descended
+from our elephants, advanced and met in the centre of the carpet,
+and having made our salutations (a salute of eleven guns was fired
+in my honour), we sat and talked for two minutes. We then mounted,
+the Maharajah's elephant being driven by his third son, the master
+of the elephants; and we rode together through the great bazaar,
+till our roads diverged at the entrance to the fortified enclosure
+to the palace, where we took leave of each other, and he went home,
+and I went to the Residency, which I reached at four o'clock, my wife
+and children having made a short cut.
+
+The Residency then was a low and dark bungalow built of wattle
+and daub, and thatched. It had one large room in the centre, and a
+bedroom on either side with a small semicircular room in front and
+rear of the centre room; there was one bathroom (I speedily added
+more), and verandahs nearly all round. There were venetians to the
+windows, but no glass, and the house was very dark and very full of
+mosquitoes. However, all had been done by the Residency establishment
+to make the place comfortable, and we were too old travellers and
+too accustomed to rough it, to grumble. The house might be rude and
+uncomfortable, but some of my happiest days were spent in it. The
+building was at the end of a garden, with some nice mango, and other
+trees here and there, and had a little more ground attached to it,
+but we were on all sides surrounded by squalid villages and filthy
+tanks and cesspools, and the situation was very low, though well
+drained. Our English nurse grumbled incessantly, but we had engaged
+in advance, a nice pleasant Naga woman, named Chowkee, to help her,
+and soon made everything right for the night, but the mosquitoes were
+terrible, and though my life has been spent in countries swarming
+with them, I give Manipur the palm, it beats all others!
+
+No European lady or children of pure blood had ever before been
+seen in Manipur, and at first there was great excitement wherever
+we went, all the population turning out to look at us. By degrees
+they became accustomed to the novelty, but still occasionally people
+from distant villages coming to the capital stopped to stare. Every
+now and then my wife had visits from strange old ladies, often from
+the Kola Ranee, the widow of the last Rajah of Assam, and by birth a
+Manipuri princess, daughter of Rajah Chomjeet, and first cousin of
+the Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. Once an old woman of 106 years
+of age, with a daughter of 76, were visitors, and once or twice some
+other relic of a bygone age called on us. Among the latter was old
+Ram Singh, the last survivor of Wilcox's famous survey expeditions in
+Assam, in 1825-26-27-28. Wilcox was one of the giants of old, men who
+with limited resources, did a vast amount of work among wild people,
+and said little about it, being contented with doing their duty. In
+1828, accompanied by Lieutenant Burton, and ten men belonging to the
+Sudya Khamptis (Shans), he penetrated to the Bor Khamptis country, far
+beyond our borders, an exploit not repeated till after our annexation
+of Upper Burmah. Ram Singh had a great respect for his former leader,
+and loved to talk of old days.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Visit to the Maharajah--His minister--Former revolutions--Thangal
+    Major.
+
+
+After a day's rest I paid a visit to the Maharajah, having first
+stipulated as to my proper reception. I was received by the Jubraj
+(heir apparent) at the entrance to the private part of the palace,
+and by the Maharajah a few paces from the entrance to the Durbar room
+(hall of reception), and conducted by him to a seat opposite to his
+own, with a table between us, his sons and officials being seated on
+either side. I read the Viceroy's letter, informing the Maharajah of
+my appointment, and, after a short conversation, during which my age
+was asked (a question invariably put to European officers by Manipuris
+of rank), I took my leave, and was escorted back to the place where
+I was met on my arrival. I was favourably impressed by what I saw,
+but I at once realised that I was on no bed of roses, and that I would
+have to make a good fight to obtain and maintain my just influence with
+the Durbar. The Maharajah had undoubtedly grievances against us, and I
+felt that it was folly and injustice not to acknowledge these. At the
+same time, he and his ministers had on some occasions taken advantage
+of this state of affairs to behave in an unseemly way, and for this a
+sharp rebuke had to be administered. The natural sense of injustice
+is strong in mankind, and I saw that chafing under slights they had
+received, and often magnifying them, it was necessary for me first to
+acknowledge these, and try as far as possible to make amends, and then
+to come down on them very sharply for having forgotten their position.
+
+The Maharajah returned my visit, and we had one or two interviews
+when we discussed affairs. I pointed out the extreme gravity of
+resisting the British Government in any way, and we soon became
+very friendly. Colonel McCulloch's introduction had been a great
+advantage to me, and every one was inclined to give me credit for good
+intentions, at the same time that every effort was made to restrict
+my authority and influence.
+
+The Maharajah was a rather thick-set man of about five feet five
+inches in height and forty-five years of age. In India he would have
+been called fair. He had the features of the Indo-Chinese race, and the
+impassive face that generally goes with them, but which is often not so
+marked in the Manipuris. He was far the ablest man in his dominions,
+and a strong and capable ruler. He had a great taste for mechanical
+arts of all kinds, and a vast fund of information which he had acquired
+by questioning, for he questioned every one he met. English scientific
+works were explained to him, and his researches extended even to the
+anatomy of the human body, of which he had a very fair knowledge. He
+had a taste for European articles, and owned a large assortment. He had
+glass manufactured in his workshops, and once sent me a petroleum lamp,
+every portion of which was made by his own artificers. His rule, for
+such a strong man, was mild as compared with that of his predecessors,
+and he thoroughly realised that his prosperity depended on his loyalty
+to the British Government. At the same time, he was most tenacious
+of his rights, and earnestly desired to preserve his country intact,
+and to give us no excuse for annexing it.
+
+The fear of tempting us to annex was so great that, once when I
+thought of growing a little tea for my own consumption, he was much
+agitated. I, as a matter of courtesy, first sent to ask him if he
+had any objection to my growing a little, and, in reply, he sent an
+official to beg me not to think of it. This man said, "The Maharajah
+will supply you with all the tea you want free of cost, but begs you
+not to think of growing it." The officer went on to explain, that
+it was feared that, if I successfully demonstrated that tea could
+be grown in Manipur tea planters would come up, and there would be a
+cry for annexation! Certainly our annexation of the Muttuk country in
+1840 justified the suspicion, and we cannot blame people for having
+long memories.
+
+The Jubraj, or heir apparent, was an amiable young man of twenty-six or
+twenty-seven, with a pleasant smile which was wanting in his father. He
+was of a weak character, although possessing some ability. Like
+his father, he could speak Hindoostani, but both were ignorant of
+English. Backed up and influenced by an honest and capable Political
+Agent, he would probably have made an excellent ruler, and, had we
+done our duty by him, he might now be at the head of a flourishing
+little state, instead of having died an exile in Calcutta.
+
+The next son, Wankai Rakpar, afterwards known as the "Regent" during
+the recent troubles, was an ignorant, uncouth boor, who knew no
+language but his own, and was quite unfitted for any responsible work;
+he took little part in public affairs. The third known as Samoo Henjaba
+(Master of the Elephants), was a clever, pleasant, sensible young man,
+said by Thangal Major, no mean judge of character, to be the ablest
+of the ten sons of the Maharajah. He died during my tenure of office.
+
+The fourth son, Kotwal Koireng, who afterwards acquired an infamous
+reputation as the "Senaputtee," was always a bad character, cruel,
+coarse, and low minded. From early childhood he was given to foul
+language, and was absolutely dangerous when he grew up. His mother
+had been unfaithful to the Maharajah, who used to say that the son
+was worthy of her. Colonel McCulloch had always disliked him as a boy.
+
+None of the other six sons of the Maharajah were in my time mixed up
+in public affairs, so I need not describe them, except that Pucca
+Senna was the champion polo player, though not otherwise worthy of
+notice. The practical ministers were Bularam Singh, or Sawai Jamba
+Major, and Thangal Major. They were both faithful adherents of the
+Maharajah, although the first who had once had much influence had
+married the daughter of the former Rajah Nur Sing. He was nominally
+the first in rank, but Thangal Major was rapidly gaining ground,
+and viewed with increasing favour by the Maharajah.
+
+I quote the following description of the Government of Manipur from an
+article I wrote for The Nineteenth Century, by kind permission of the
+editor. "The government of Manipur has always been a pure despotism
+tempered by assassination and revolution. While he occupies the throne
+the rajah is perfectly absolute. A minister may be all powerful,
+and all the princes and people may tremble before him; for years he
+may practically rule the rajah; but he is after all a cipher before
+his sovereign, a single word from whom may send him into exile, make
+him an outcast, or reduce him to the lowest rank. Yet with all this
+power an obscure man may suddenly spring up, as if from the ground,
+to assert himself to be of the blood royal, and gathering a large
+party round him place himself on the throne. All this happened not
+unfrequently in days gone by, when many were the rajahs murdered
+or deposed. History tells us of rajahs being deposed, re-elected,
+and deposed again."
+
+There can be no doubt that in old days the people benefited by the
+system of constant revolutions, as a rajah was obliged to keep in touch
+with his subjects if he wished to occupy the throne for any length of
+time, and many concessions were made to gain a strong following. The
+average intelligence of the Manipuris being higher than that found
+among the cultivators of many other native states, the people knew
+what reforms to ask for, and often insisted on their being granted.
+
+Nothing can be harder on the people of a native state, than for the
+paramount power to hold a ruler on the throne with a firm grasp,
+and protect him against internal revolution, and at the same time to
+refrain from insisting on needful reform.
+
+Chandra Kirtee Singh's long reign and strong government, were in many
+ways a great benefit to the people, because he was a man of sound
+sense, and though selfish and unscrupulous, naturally of a kindly
+disposition, a fact proved by the few executions that took place in his
+reign. In his earlier years he had the benefit of Colonel McCulloch's
+good advice, enforced by his great influence. All the same there
+can be no doubt that a little more interference judiciously applied,
+would have vastly improved the state of affairs during the time he
+occupied the throne. Of course an individual Political Agent might
+bring about improvements in the administration, but these all rested
+on his personal influence and lasted only while he remained. Had the
+Government of India stepped in and exerted its authority they would
+have been permanent.
+
+Bularam Singh was a typical Manipuri in face and had good manners,
+but he had no force of character, and gradually yielded to his more
+able colleague. He was generally known as the Toolee-Hel major, i.e.,
+the major or commander of the Hel regiment.
+
+Thangal Major was a remarkable character, and had a chequered
+history. His uncle had saved the life of Rajah Ghumbeer Singh (Chandra
+Kirtee Singh's father), then a child, when his older brother Marjeet
+attempted the murder of all his relations. Thangal Major was one of
+the props of the throne when Ghumbeer Singh ascended it. He had been
+introduced at Court at an early age, and accompanied the Rajah in
+an expedition against the village of Thangal inhabited by a tribe
+of Nagas. He was given the name Thangal in memory of the event. He
+accompanied the old Ranee with her infant son Chandra Kirtee Singh
+into exile, when she fled after attempting the Regent Nursing's
+life while he was engaged in worship in the temple of Govindjee in
+1844; had stayed with him and carefully watched over his childhood
+and youth. When in 1850 the young Rajah came to Manipur to assert
+his rights, Thangal accompanied him and greatly contributed to his
+success. This naturally made him a favourite, and his bold, active,
+energetic character always brought him to the front when hard or
+dangerous work had to be done. For a time he fell into disfavour,
+but Colonel McCulloch, recognising his strong and useful qualities,
+and the fact that he was an exceedingly able man, interceded for him
+with the Maharajah, and he again came to the front. In person he was
+short and thickset, darker than the average of Manipuris, with piercing
+eyes and rather a prominent nose, a pleasant and straightforward but
+abrupt manner, and, though a very devoted and patriotic Manipuri,
+was extremely partial to Europeans. He knew our ways well, and soon
+took a man's measure. He was acquainted with every part of Manipur,
+and, though ignorant of English, could point out any village in
+the state, on an English map. In fact, he had studied geography in
+every branch to enable him to defend the cause of Manipur against
+the survey officers who were suspected by the Manipuris of wishing
+to include all they could within British territory. He knew all our
+technical terms such as "watershed" in English, and had gained much
+credit for enabling the survey to carry on their work in 1872, when
+the patriotic but ill-judged zeal of an older officer, Rooma Singh,
+nearly brought about a rupture. Thangal Major's knowledge of us and
+our customs, as well as of our moral code, was astonishing. He realised
+the power of the British Government, and though he would resist us to
+the utmost in the interests of Manipur, nothing would have induced
+him to join in any plot against our rule in India. When I say that
+he was unscrupulous and capable of anything, I only say that he was
+what circumstances and education had made him, and would make any
+man under similar conditions. He had not the polish of a native of
+Western India, and had not had the advantage of English training that
+many ministers in other states have. The internal administration of
+Manipur had never been interfered with by us, and Thangal Major was
+the strong able man of the old type. A strong and capable political
+agent might do well with him, but a weak one would soon go to the
+wall. He commanded the Toolee Nehah, and was often called by that
+title, but was better known as Thangal Major.
+
+One of my predecessors had quarrelled with Thangal Major, and this
+had led to recrimination, and very unseemly conduct on the part of the
+Durbar. This conduct I had rebuked as directed, but it was a question
+as to how Thangal Major was to be dealt with. I was authorised to
+demand his dismissal from office, and for some time he had not been
+received by my two immediate predecessors. I made careful inquiries,
+and feeling convinced that there was a good deal to be said on
+Thangal's side, and that by careful management I should be able to
+keep him well in hand, I sent for him. The old man, he was then sixty,
+having been born in 1817, came in a quiet unostentatious way, and after
+a severe rebuke, and receiving an ample apology from him, I forgave
+him, and restored him to the position of minister in attendance upon
+me; and thenceforth I saw him daily, generally for an hour or two.
+
+In addition to the Minister, two Subadars, Lowremba and Moirang,
+were placed in attendance on me, but as time went on, and I and the
+Durbar became friends, we transacted business in a friendly way,
+through any one.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Manipur--Early history--Our connection with it--Ghumbeer
+    Singh--Burmese war.
+
+
+Manipur consists of about 8000 square miles, chiefly hills surrounding
+a valley 650 square miles in extent. This valley from north to south
+is about 35 miles, and from east to west 25. The capital Imphal,
+as it formerly existed, was a large mass of villages looking like a
+forest from the neighbouring heights, and covering about 15 square
+miles. Every house was in the centre of its own well-planted garden,
+and every garden contained a few forest trees. The census of 1881 gave
+the population of the capital as 60,000, that of the rest of the valley
+an equal number, while the hills were estimated to have 100,000. It
+was only in the capital that pure Manipuris lived, except the soldiers
+in the military posts which were scattered all over the country.
+
+The valley itself is 2600 feet above the sea, and the hills rise
+on an average to an equal height above it, though here and there
+some of the distant peaks are 10,000 to 12,000 feet in height. Thus
+Manipur contains within its borders a variety of climate from almost
+tropical, to a greater cold than that of England. The heat is never
+very excessive in the valley, and for eight months in the year it is
+most enjoyable. Foreigners suffer much from bronchial affections,
+doubtless owing to the waterlogged soil, but these complaints are
+not more prevalent among the native population than elsewhere, and
+if sanitary laws were properly observed, the valley might be a most
+healthy place and the population would rapidly overflow.
+
+The capital is almost intersected by the 25th parallel north latitude,
+and 95 deg. east longitude, and is 132 miles by road from Silchar, the
+capital of Cachar, and 70 from Tamu in the Kubo valley. The valley of
+Manipur forms the centre of a chain of valleys, viz., Cachar, Manipur,
+and Kubo, connecting Bengal with Burmah proper. The sides of the
+hills facing the valley of Manipur are generally covered with grass
+or scant jungle which rapidly dries up as the cold season advances,
+but when once the crest is passed, a fine forest is reached; except
+where the hill-tribes have destroyed it, to raise one crop and then
+let it relapse into grass and scrub. Alas, I have seen noble oak
+forests laid low and burned for this purpose. It is an abominable
+custom, and nothing can justify our permitting it where we hold
+sway. That it is not necessary is shown by the Angamis and some of
+the Tankhool tribes, who though they do occasionally indulge in this
+wasteful cultivation are quite independent of it, as they terrace
+their hillsides and cultivate the same tract for generations. The
+forests of Manipur are plentifully supplied with fine timber trees;
+several varieties of oak and chestnut exist, and many others unknown
+in England such as Woo-Ningtho, an excellent timber said to resist the
+ravages of white ants; wang, which can be worked in its green state
+as it never warps; teak, etc. Fir trees are found in abundance to the
+south, east, and north-east of the valley, and bamboos of many kinds,
+including the giant, are plentiful.
+
+Rhododendrons and wild azaleas of several kinds, as well as many
+species of brilliant orchids, add greatly to the beauty of the forests,
+and in some parts tree ferns are abundant. I know nothing more lovely
+in the world, than some of the forest scenery of Manipur with its
+solemn stillness.
+
+The early history of Manipur is lost in obscurity, but there can be
+no doubt that it has existed as an independent kingdom from a very
+early period. In the days when the Indian branch of the Aryan race
+was still in its progressive and colonising stage, this district
+was repeatedly passed over by one wave after another of invaders,
+intent on penetrating into the remotest parts of Burmah. We have no
+means of ascertaining what government it had before the year 700 A.D.,
+but it is believed that a monarchy prevailed at that era. About the
+year 1250 A.D., a large Chinese force invaded the country, and was
+signally defeated; all who were not killed being made prisoners. These
+taught the Manipuris silk culture, and a number of them were settled
+at Susa Rameng in the valley, where they have still descendants. The
+Chinese also taught the art of brick-making, and erected two solid
+blocks of masonry in the palace, between which the road to the Lion
+Gate passed. These blocks were levelled with the ground by the Burmese
+invaders, but rebuilt on the old foundations by Ghumbeer Singh.
+
+Manipur in old days possessed a famous breed of ponies, larger and
+better bred than the so-called Burmese ponies that come from the Shan
+states. On these ponies were mounted the formidable cavalry that
+in the last century made Manipur feared throughout Upper Burmah,
+and enabled her rulers on more than one occasion, to carry their
+victorious arms within sight of Ava, where their Rajah Pamheiba erected
+a stone pillar to commemorate the event. The cavalry used the regular
+Manipuri saddle protecting the legs, and were armed with spears and
+two quivers of darts. These darts in a retreat were grasped by a loop
+and swung round in a peculiar way, when the shaft formed of peacock
+feathers with an iron head suddenly became detached, and flying with
+great force inflicted a fatal wound wherever it struck. A skilful
+man could throw them with great precision.
+
+The territories of Manipur varied according to the mettle of its
+rulers. Sometimes they held a considerable territory east of the
+Chindwin river in subjection, at other times only the Kubo valley,
+a strip of territory, inhabited, not by Burmese, but by Shans, and
+lying between Manipur proper and the Chindwin. Again they were driven
+back into Manipur proper. For the greater part of the last century,
+the Kubo valley unquestionably belonged to Manipur, and it was never
+in any sense a Burmese province, being, when not under Manipur,
+a feudatory of the great Shan kingdom of Pong.
+
+In the middle of the last century one of those extraordinary men who
+appear from time to time in the East, destined to shine like a blazing
+meteor, imparting exceeding brilliancy to their country, and then as
+suddenly vanishing, so that it returns to its original obscurity,
+appeared in Burmah. His name, Along Pra, has been corrupted by us
+into Alompra, by which he is always known. He speedily raised Burmah
+to a commanding position. The kingdom of Pong was overthrown and
+its territories mostly annexed, Pegu was conquered, our district of
+Chittagong threatened, and Siam forced to relinquish several coveted
+possessions. The war fever did not die with Alompra, and in 1817 and
+1819 Assam and Manipur were respectively invaded, internal dissensions
+having bred traitors, who, in both countries, made the path of the
+invaders easy. But the master spirit was gone, and when we appeared
+upon the scene, they could make no efficient stand. Had we then marched
+to Ava, the Burmese Empire would have collapsed like a house of cards,
+and the events of 1885 been anticipated by sixty years. As it was, we
+did not realise our strength and the Burmese weakness, and contented
+ourselves with annexing Assam and Cachar and protecting Manipur.
+
+It is not very evident what the religion of Manipur was in early days,
+but we see no trace of Buddhism. Probably, whatever the belief in
+early years when the people may have been affected by the intermittent
+stream of Aryans passing through, for many centuries no religious rites
+were used before the recent rise of Hindooism, further than to appease
+evil spirits, as is the custom of the surrounding tribes. There can be
+little doubt that some time or other the Naga tribes to the north made
+one of their chiefs Rajah of Manipur, and that his family, while, like
+the Manchus in China and other conquerors, adopting the civilisation
+of the country, retained some of their old customs. This is shown in
+the curious practice at the installation of a Rajah, when he and the
+Ranee appear in Naga costume; also that he always has in his palace
+a house built like a Naga's, and wherever he goes he is attended by
+two or three Manipuris with Naga arms and accoutrements. I once told
+a Manipuri what I thought on the subject, and he was greatly struck
+by it, and admitted the force of what I said.
+
+Towards the middle of the last century, for some reason or other,
+a great Hindoo revival took place in the East of India. Assam was
+once Hindoo but had long become Buddhist under its Ahom kings,
+and now became converted to Hindooism, by Brahmins from Bengal. All
+difficulties were smoothed over, and converts were made by tens of
+thousands. It is to be regretted that it was so, as these "converts"
+quickly deteriorated. The easy conquest of Hindooised Assam by the
+Burmese, when Buddhist Assam had successfully resisted a powerful army
+sent by Arungzebe from India and composed largely of recruits from
+Central Asia, seems proof of it, if all other evidence were wanting.
+
+The process of conversion in Manipur began a generation later than in
+Assam, and proceeded on somewhat different lines, but it was not less
+effective, and was still going on at a late date. It had not the same
+deteriorating effect, for the Rajahs assumed to themselves a position
+greater than that of High Pontiff, and could at any time by their
+simple fiat have changed the religion of the country and degraded
+all the Brahmins, in fact all admissions to the Hindoo pale from the
+outer world of unorthodoxy were made by the Rajah himself. Sometimes
+the inhabitants of a village were elevated en masse from the level
+of outcasts, to that of Hindoos of pure caste, but more often single
+individuals were "converted." A man belonging to a hill-tribe, for
+instance, could, if the Rajah chose, at any time receive the sacred
+thread of the twice-born castes, and on payment of a small sum of money
+be admitted as a Hindoo and was thenceforth called a Khetree. [16]
+This privilege was not accorded to Mussulmans. I once asked a Manipuri
+why they received hill-men and not Mussulmans, both being Mlechas, [17]
+according to Hindoo theory. He said it was because the hill people had
+sinned in ignorance, whereas Mussulmans knew the evil of their ways.
+
+Of course, every one who knows anything of Hindooism is aware that
+theoretically a man must be born a Hindoo, and that proselytism
+is not admitted. Practically, however, this rule is ignored on the
+eastern frontier, and all along it from Sudya down to Chittagong,
+where conversions are daily taking place. I remember villages in
+Assam where caste was unknown thirty-five years ago, but where now the
+people live in the odour of sanctity as highly orthodox and bigoted
+Hindoos. Strange to say, the pure Hindoos of the North-West Provinces
+acknowledge the pretensions of these spurious converts sufficiently so
+as to allow of their drinking water brought by them. It is probably
+easier to take the people at their own valuation than to carry water
+one's self from a distance when tired. By the religious law of the
+Hindoos, it is forbidden to eat or drink anything touched by one of
+another tribe.
+
+Our first relations with Manipur date from 1762, when Governor
+Verelst of the Bengal Presidency--with that splendid self-reliance and
+large-mindedness characteristic of the makers of the British Indian
+Empire, men who acted instead of talking, and were always ready to
+extend our responsibilities when advisable--entered into a treaty with
+the Rajah of Manipur. As this treaty came to nothing, practically our
+connection with the little state really dates from 1823. It had been
+invaded by the Burmese in 1819, and its people driven out or carried
+off into slavery in Burmah. The royal family were fugitives.
+
+At that time Sylhet was our frontier station, and our relations with
+the Burmese, who were at the highest pitch of their power, were
+daily becoming more strained. On our side of the frontier we were
+ably represented by Mr. David Scott, agent to the Governor-General,
+and preparations were being made for the inevitable struggle. One
+day a young Manipuri prince waited on Mr. Scott and asked leave
+to raise a Manipuri force to fight on our side. He was short and
+slight, and of indomitable courage and energy, and the agent to
+the Governor-General recognising his ability, allowed him to raise
+500 men. These were soon increased to 2000, cavalry, infantry and
+artillery. Two English officers, Captain F. Grant and Lieutenant
+R. B. Pemberton, were attached to the force, thenceforth called the
+Manipur Levy, to drill and discipline it.
+
+In 1825 a general advance was made all along our line, Cachar was
+invaded and subdued, and we essayed to pursue the enemy into Manipur
+and thence into Burmah, but our transport arrangements failed. Hitherto
+we had been accustomed to wars in the arid plains of India, and our
+military authorities did not realise the necessities of an expedition
+into the eastern jungles. Hence, camels and bullocks were sent to
+dislocate their limbs in the tenacious mud and swamps of Cachar,
+and when the advance into Manipur was desired, our regular troops
+were powerless. At this crisis the Manipur Levy showed its immense
+value. The men could move lightly equipped without the paraphernalia
+of a regular army, and advance they did, and with such effect that in
+a short time not only was Manipur cleared, but the enemy driven out
+of the Kubo valley. Later on, Ghumbeer Singh was recognised as Rajah
+of Manipur, and the Kubo valley was included within his territories.
+
+Manipur at this time contained only 2000 inhabitants, the miserable
+remnants of a thriving population of at least 400,000, possibly
+600,000, that existed before the invasion. Ghumbeer Singh's task was to
+encourage exiles to return, and to attempt to rebuild the prosperity
+of his little kingdom. He was a wise and strong though severe ruler,
+and though he owed his throne greatly to his own efforts, he to the
+last retained the deepest feelings of loyalty and gratitude to the
+British Government, promptly obeying all its orders and doing his
+utmost to impress the same feeling on all his officers.
+
+As is always the case, though we had carried all before us in the
+war, we began to display great weakness afterwards. We had an agent,
+Colonel Burney, at Ava, and the Burmese who were not disposed to be
+at all friendly, constantly tried to impress on him the fact that
+all difficulties and disputes would be at an end if we ceded the
+Kubo valley to them, that territory belonging to our ally Ghumbeer
+Singh of Manipur. Of course the proposal ought to have been rejected
+with scorn, and a severe snub given to the Burmese officials. The
+advisers of the Government of India, however, being generally officers
+brought up in the Secretariat, and with little practical knowledge of
+Asiatics, the manly course was not followed. It was not realised that
+a display of self-confidence and strength is the best diplomacy with
+people like the Burmese, and with a view to winning their good-will
+we basely consented to deprive our gallant and loyal ally of part
+of his territories. An attempt was made to negotiate with him, but
+Major Grant said, "It is no use bargaining with Ghumbeer Singh,"
+and refused to take any part in it. He was asked what compensation
+should be given, and he said 6000 sicca rupees per annum.
+
+When Ghumbeer Singh heard the final decision he quietly accepted
+it, saying, "You gave it me and you can take it away. I accept your
+decree." The proposed transfer was very distasteful to many of the
+inhabitants, including the Sumjok (Thoungdoot) Tsawbwa, [18] but they
+were not consulted. The Kubo valley was handed over to the Burmese
+on the 9th of January, 1834, and on that day Ghumbeer Singh died in
+Manipur of cholera. Perhaps he was happy in the hour of his death,
+as he felt the treatment of our Government most severely.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of him--Nur Singh and
+    attempt on his life--McCulloch--His wisdom and generosity--My
+    establishment--Settlement of frontier dispute.
+
+
+Ghumbeer Singh did much for Manipur during his comparatively short
+reign. He made all the roads in his territory safe, and subdued the
+different hill-tribes who had asserted their independence during
+the troubles with Burmah. Imphal, the old capital, had not been
+re-occupied, though the sacred spot where the temple of Govindjee
+stood was cared for; but a new palace had been built at Langthabal
+at a distance of three and a half miles from Imphal where several
+fine masonry buildings were erected, and a canal dug for the annual
+boat races. Langthabal [19] was deserted in 1844 and the old site
+re-occupied, and in my time, the buildings at Langthabal were
+picturesque ruins, having been greatly injured by time and the
+earthquakes of 1869 and 1880. Ghumbeer Singh left an infant son,
+Chandra Kirtee Singh who was two years of age at his father's death
+and a distant cousin, Nur Singh, was appointed Regent. Contrary to all
+precedent, the Regent was loyal to his charge and governed well and
+ably for the infant prince, in spite of constant attempts to overthrow
+his government. In 1844, the Queen-Mother wishing to govern herself,
+attempted to procure Nur Singh's murder as he was at prayers in the
+temple. She failed and fled with her son the young Rajah Chandra
+Kirtee Singh to British territory. The Regent then proclaimed himself
+Rajah with the consent of all the people. The Manipur Levy had been
+maintained up till 1835 when the Government of India withdrew their
+connection from it, and ceased to pay the men. Major Grant left
+Manipur, and Captain Gordon, who had been adjutant since 1827, was
+made Political Agent of Manipur. Captain Pemberton had long since
+been on special survey duty.
+
+Captain Gordon died in December 1844. He was much liked and long
+remembered by the people whom he had greatly benefited, among other
+ways by introducing English vegetables, and fruits. He was succeeded
+by Lieutenant (afterwards Colonel) McCulloch.
+
+Rajah Nur Singh died in 1850, and was succeeded by his brother
+Debindro, a weak man, quite unfit for the position. In 1850, young
+Chandra Kirtee Singh invaded the valley with a body of followers,
+Debindro fled, and he mounted the throne without opposition. Up to
+this time the Government of India had always acknowledged the de facto
+Rajah of Manipur, and revolutions with much accompanying bloodshed
+were common. Now, however, McCulloch strongly urged the advisability
+of supporting Chandra Kirtee Singh, and he received authority to
+"make a public avowal of the determination of the British Government
+to uphold the present Rajah and to resist and punish any parties
+attempting hereafter to dispossess him." The Court of Directors of
+the East India Company, in a despatch dated May 5th, 1852, confirmed
+the order of the Government of India and commented thus: "The position
+you have assumed of pledged protector of the Rajah, imposes on you as
+a necessary consequence the obligation of attempting to guide him,
+by your advice, but if needful of protecting his subjects against
+oppression on his part; otherwise our guarantee of his rule may be
+the cause of inflicting on them a continuance of reckless tyranny."
+
+These words of justice and wisdom were steadily ignored by successive
+governments. On no occasion did the Government of India ever seriously
+remonstrate with the Rajah, or make a sustained effort to improve
+his system of administration. The East India Company's order became
+a dead letter, but the resolution to uphold Chandra Kirtee Singh
+bore good fruit, and during his long reign of thirty-five years no
+successful attempt against his authority was ever made, and he on
+his part displayed unswerving fidelity to the British Government.
+
+I have already mentioned the great work that Colonel McCulloch
+accomplished with regard to the Kukis. This added to his long
+experience, gave him great influence in the State, and when he
+retired from the service in 1861, it was amidst the regrets of the
+whole people. Able, high-minded, respected, and having accomplished
+a task few could even have attempted, he left without honour or
+reward from his Government. How many men of inferior capacity,
+and quite without his old-fashioned single-minded devotion to duty,
+are nowadays covered with stars! When he left he made every effort
+to hand over his vast power and influence intact to his successor,
+and to smooth his way as much as possible. Had the Government of
+India exercised the slightest tact and discretion in the selection of
+its agent, he might have carried on the good work so ably commenced,
+and brought Manipur by rapid strides into the path of progress. As it
+was it would have been difficult to find an officer more unfitted to
+succeed Colonel McCulloch than the one selected; he was soon involved
+in difficulties, and after a troubled period was ordered by Government
+to leave at three days' notice. For a time the agency remained vacant,
+but the Rajah applied for another officer, and Colonel McCulloch was
+requested by the Government to quit his retirement, and again assume
+charge. He did so, and was received with acclamations by Rajah and
+people, the whole State turning out to meet him. His first effort was
+to restore the confidence forfeited by the late political agent, and
+everything went on as smoothly as ever; but, towards the end of 1867,
+he finally retired, staying on a few days after his successor's arrival
+to post him up in his work. This time it would have been thought that
+some judgment would be shown in the selection of an officer for the
+post; but the next political agent was eminently unfitted and for
+some years before his death in 1876, was on very indifferent terms
+with the Durbar.
+
+During the brief period that elapsed between the last event and my
+taking charge, two different officers held the post.
+
+My Government establishment consisted of a head clerk, a most excellent
+man, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo; a native doctor, Lachman Parshad;
+native secretary and Manipuri interpreter; Burmese interpreter;
+Naga interpreter; Kuki interpreter; and latterly six chuprassies,
+i.e., orderlies or lictors. As for private servants we had three Naga
+girls, a Mugh cook and assistant, who could turn out a dinner equal to
+any of the London clubs for one hundred people at a couple of days'
+notice, and under him I had four young Nagas learning their work,
+as I was determined to do more for my successors than my predecessors
+had done for me, viz., teach and train up a staff of servants so as
+to save the necessity of importing the scum of Calcutta. I had an
+excellent bearer, Horna, as I have already stated, and under him were
+two or three Nagas; washermen, syces, gardeners, water-carriers,
+etc., made up the number. All my interpreters, chuprassies, and
+servants, I clothed in scarlet livery which made a great impression,
+and gradually the air of squalor which prevailed when I arrived began
+to disappear. I had charge of a Government Treasury from which I used
+to pay myself and the Government establishment. The currency of the
+country was a small bell-metal coin called "Sel," of which 400 to
+480 went to the rupee, also current, but copper pice were not used,
+and all Manipuri accounts were kept in "Sel."
+
+At this time the Naga Hills were still under a political officer
+whose actual jurisdiction was limited to the villages which had paid
+tribute to me, as already described. He was supposed to exercise a
+certain influence over many of the large villages, but the influence
+was lessened by the feeling entertained by the Nagas that our stay
+in the hills was uncertain, and that for all practical purposes the
+Manipuris were the power most to be reckoned with, and from our
+point of view it was very desirable that our headquarter station
+should be removed to Kohima. A dispute with Mozuma, due chiefly to
+our vacillating conduct, was now going on, but its chiefs would not
+accept our terms, and an expedition to coerce them was in preparation
+in which I was to take part. Mr. Carnegy was political officer, a man
+of ability and determination, and very pleasant to deal with. During
+the dispute with Mozuma, the other villages held aloof, thinking Mozuma
+was able to hold its own, and waiting to see which side gained the day.
+
+Burmah was still under its native rulers. There were constant frontier
+disputes going on between it and Manipur, but that state of things
+was chronic.
+
+To the south of Manipur, the Chin and Lushai tribes were quiet.
+
+There was a long standing boundary dispute between Manipur and the
+Naga Hills. The boundary had been most arbitrarily settled by us
+when the survey was carried out, so far as a certain point, beyond
+that it was vague. Manipur claimed territory which we certainly did
+not possess, and which she had visited from time to time, but did not
+actually hold in subjection. Other portions, as I afterwards proved,
+were occupied by her, though the fact had not been ascertained. Over
+and over again efforts had been made to bring the Durbar to terms,
+but without success. I determined to grapple with the question at
+once. I took a map and drew a line including all that I thought Manipur
+entitled to, in the neighbourhood of the Naga Hills, and advised the
+Maharajah to accept the arrangement on the understanding that when I
+visited the country claimed further eastward, I would recommend the
+Government of India to allow him to retain all that he actually held in
+his possession. This was agreed to by him and confirmed by Government,
+and I believe that substantial justice was done to both parties.
+
+I should like to have seen Manipur get more, as a set-off against our
+unjust treatment in former years, but as we were sure eventually, to
+occupy all the Naga Hills, it was necessary to make such an adjustment
+as would not injure British interests in the future.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    My early days in Manipur--The capital--The inhabitants--Good
+    qualities of Manipuris--Origin of valley of Manipur--Expedition
+    to the Naga Hills--Lovely scenery--Attack on Kongal Tannah by
+    Burmese--Return from Naga Hills--Visit Kongal Tannah.
+
+
+The first few weeks in Manipur were taken up in making acquaintance
+with the place and people, and doing all that was possible to disarm
+the fears of the Durbar. Never was there one so suspicious. At
+first all my movements were watched, and wherever I went spies,
+open or secret, followed; however, I encouraged it to the utmost,
+and told the officials to inquire into everything I did, and they
+very soon saw that there was no necessity for special espionage,
+though all my acts were still noted and reported. Several little
+difficulties cropped up regarding British subjects, and required some
+care in dealing with them. In one case, a man had taken upon himself
+to intrigue with some of the Nagas under Manipur, and urged them to
+declare themselves British subjects, and in another, a man had robbed
+the Maharajah. In both instances the Durbar had acted foolishly and
+precipitately, though under much provocation. However, I turned both
+men out of the country, with orders never to return.
+
+The question of British subjects and their rights was one that gave
+me much trouble for years. Judging by a decision of the High Court
+of Calcutta that all the descendants of European British subjects
+were European British subjects, I insisted on all descendants
+of British subjects being considered as such, and subject to my
+jurisdiction. After a long struggle I carried my point, and it very
+greatly strengthened my position.
+
+A few more words about the capital and the Manipuris may not be
+amiss. Imphal, as has been said, [20] covered a space of fifteen
+square miles. On the north side it touches on some low hills, called
+Ching-mai-roong, and running westward is bounded by a shallow lake,
+which is partly enclosed by a continuation of the hills, here called
+Langol, on which grows a celebrated cane used for polo sticks. Then,
+running south, it is intersected by several roads, notably the road
+to Silchar, which enters the capital at a place called Kooak-Kaithel
+(i.e. crow bazaar). Here it is bounded by rice cultivation. Going
+farther south, and sweeping round in an easterly direction, it is
+bounded by the Plain of Lang-thabal, at one extremity of which lies
+the old capital; here two rivers intersect it. And going farther east,
+it is bounded by the lower slopes of a hill rising 2500 feet above the
+valley. Then turning to the northward and crossing two rivers, we come
+again to the place from which we started. The want of the town was a
+good water-supply; there were one or two fair-sized tanks, or ponds,
+as they would be called in England, and the afore-mentioned rivers,
+of which the water is not improved by receiving the ashes of the
+dead burned on their banks. Beyond this, all the water obtainable was
+derived from small ponds, one or more of which was to be found in every
+garden enclosure. The ground on which the capital stands must at one
+time have been very low, probably a marsh, and it has been artificially
+raised from time to time by digging these tanks; every raised road,
+too, meant a deep stagnant ditch on either side. The people are not
+sanitary in their habits, and when heavy rain falls the gardens are
+flooded, and a fair share of the accumulated filth is washed into
+the drinking-tanks, the result being frequent epidemics of cholera.
+
+The Manipuris themselves are a fine stalwart race descended from an
+Indo-Chinese stock, with some admixture of Aryan blood, derived from
+the successive waves of Aryan invaders that have passed through the
+valley in prehistoric days. It may be this, or from an admixture of
+Chinese blood, but certainly the Manipuris have stable and industrious
+qualities which the Burmese and Shans do not possess. Since then the
+race has been constantly fed by additions from the various hill-tribes
+surrounding the valley. The result is a fairly homogeneous people of
+great activity and energy, with much of the Japanese aptitude for
+acquiring new arts. The men seem capable of learning anything, and
+the women are famous as weavers, and in many cases have completely
+killed out the manufacture of cloths formerly peculiar to certain
+of the hill-tribes, over whom the Manipuris have obtained mastery
+by superior intellect. They are always cheerful, even on a long and
+trying march, and are good-humoured under any difficulties and never
+apparently conscious of fatigue. They are very abstemious, and live
+chiefly on rice and fish, which is often rotten from preference. Though
+rigid Hindoos outwardly, they have a curious custom by which a man
+of low caste, marrying a high-caste woman, can be adopted into her
+tribe, the exact reverse of what prevails in India, where a woman of
+high caste marrying a low-caste man is hopelessly degraded and her
+children outcasts.
+
+It is impossible for those who have marched much in the hills with
+Manipuris to avoid liking them. Their caste prejudices, though rigid,
+give no trouble to others. Hungry or not, they are always ready to
+march, and march all day and all night, if necessary. Still, the
+Indo-Chinese races exceed even the ordinary Asiatic in reserve and
+sphinx-like characteristics, and the Manipuris are an inscrutable
+set. I had many intimate friends among them, yet, on the whole,
+prefer the pure Hindoo.
+
+What is now the valley of Manipur was evidently once a series of
+valleys and ranges of hills, between the higher ranges which now border
+it and converge to the south. The rivers now flowing through the valley
+then flowed through it like the Barak, Eerung, and others, at a much
+lower level. One of the great earthquakes, to which these regions are
+so subject, closed the outlet and raised a permanent barrier; thus
+a lake was formed, and in the course of ages the alluvium brought
+down by the streams filled it up to its present level leaving the
+Logtak Lake in its lowest part, a lake which has constantly lessened
+and is still lessening in size. The crests of the sunken ranges are
+still to be seen running down the valley, and mostly parallel to the
+bordering ranges, such are Langol, Langthabal, Phoiching, Lokching,
+and others. Sometimes a river, as at a place called "Eeroce Semba,"
+runs at the base of a hill, and cuts away the alluvium, showing the
+solid rock. This alluvium forms one of the deepest and richest soils
+in the world.
+
+I have referred to the proposed expedition to the Naga Hills, to aid
+the troops there in the operations against the powerful village of
+Mozuma. In order to take part in this expedition I had brought up one
+hundred men of the 35th Native Infantry, from Cachar, and I started
+from Manipur on December 3rd, 1877, having sent on the 35th and a
+Manipuri force of over three hundred men under the Minister Bularam
+Singh. I rode out the first day to Mayang Khang, a distance of forty
+miles, where I caught up my men. I passed Sengmai at a distance of
+thirteen miles on the border of the valley, and up to which the road
+is flat, and soon entered a broken country, first grass, then scrub,
+then forest. The road lay over a succession of spurs of the Kowpree
+Hills which run down into a very narrow valley, and was as bad as
+can be imagined--very steep ascents and descents. At last we reached
+Kaithemabee, the second stage, and fourteen miles from Sengmai. It
+is exceedingly picturesquely situated, having a splendid view of the
+Kowpree range, here rising to over 8000 feet. The outpost is situated
+on a high bank overlooking a stream, and beyond it a splendid rolling
+slope of grass extending for miles.
+
+All this part of the country is covered with beehive-shaped cairns,
+built of well-selected stones. They are said to have been made by
+the Koeereng Nagas, formerly a very powerful race, whose miserable
+remnants now inhabit the neighbouring hills. Farther on the bee-hives
+end suddenly, and a region of monoliths is entered. Probably both
+monoliths and bee-hives were erected to commemorate great events
+in the lives of the builders, the death of a chief, the birth of
+a son, the giving of a great feast when a bison, or possibly many,
+were killed. Monoliths are common, and exist all over the Naga Hills
+and among the Kolarian and Dravidian tribes, as well as all over
+Europe. Cairns also are common, but the beehive-shaped cairns are,
+I believe, unique, and found only in Manipur and in this neighbourhood.
+
+I reached Mayung Khang at 4 P.M., having an hour before crossed the
+watershed, all the streams south of it falling into the tributaries of
+the Chindwin Irrawaddy, all to the north running into the tributaries
+of the Ganges and Burrhampooter.
+
+Mayung Khang is a highly undulating grassy slope, the Kowpree rising
+to nearly nine thousand feet in the west, while after crossing a small
+stream a lower range closes it in on the east. We halted there for
+the night close to a monolith, and the next day marched to Mythephum.
+
+Mythephum or Muphum (lit. Manipuri settlement) was a small military
+post, and we encamped below in a wide valley among recently cut
+rice fields, with a river rushing by us. The place is so named from
+having been a Manipuri settlement, in the old days before the Burmese
+invasion. High hills rose above us on all sides, the valley running
+in and out among them and following the course of the stream. To
+our north, and at a distance of a mile or two, was the once powerful
+village of Muram, still populous but submissive. I had a small but
+most comfortable straw-built hut, and well remember how delightful the
+early morning was next day, when I had breakfast at sunrise and saw
+my thermometer at thirty-two degrees. Only those accustomed to great
+heat realise the delights of a low thermometer. Mythephum is over
+4000 feet above the sea, and being a low valley is often extremely
+cold. Sometimes in winter the stream is for a day quite choked by
+blocks of ice, and I have seen the thermometer at twenty-six degrees,
+150 feet above the valley, which probably meant eighteen degrees at
+the lowest level on the grass.
+
+It was my intention to march on Mozuma by a track which would avoid
+the powerful villages of Viswema, Kohima, Jotsuma and Konoma, and
+enable me to attack the enemy in the rear. Half-way I was delayed
+by receiving no letter from Mr. Carnegy, with whom I had to act in
+concert, and this prevented me from reaching the scene of operations,
+as I received the startling news that the Manipuri outpost of Kongal
+Tannah on the borders of the Kubo valley had been attacked on December
+14th by a party of men sent by the Rajah of Sumjok or Thoungdoot,
+and eight men killed. This threw the whole population of Manipur into
+a state of commotion, and the Maharajah begged me to return at once,
+and I felt it my duty to do so, as my chief work was to protect Manipur
+and its interests. I therefore returned to Manipur on December 17th,
+leaving my party on the frontier, where they remained some time longer,
+the Nagas being unwilling to submit; and making overtures instead to
+the Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. He sternly declined their offers,
+and threatened that if they did not speedily yield to the British
+authorities, he would send a large force to our aid.
+
+The Naga Hills Campaign of that year had no further interest for
+Manipur, and it had a sad ending for us, as Mr. Carnegy was accidently
+shot by a sentry.
+
+The "Kongal outrage," as it was thenceforth called, was so serious and
+so evidently premeditated, that a most thorough inquiry was needed. It
+took some time to collect evidence as wounded men had to be brought
+in, and it was the end of the month before I was able to proceed to
+the spot. At last I started and crossed the Yoma range of hills for
+the first time. What a lovely march it was and what an anxious one,
+as I left my wife not at all well, and no one but an ignorant and
+not very sweet-tempered English nurse to look after her. However,
+duty must come first, and off I started, posting relays of ponies on
+the way to enable me to return quickly when the work was done. Thangal
+Major accompanied me.
+
+The first part of our march lay across the valley, and we began the
+ascent of the hills at a place called Ingorok. After a wearisome ascent
+of 3500 feet and a more gradual one along the crest, we made a rapid
+descent of 4000 feet to the Turet river, where we encamped. The river
+runs at the bottom of an exceedingly narrow valley, and the ascent on
+both sides is one of the most wearisome I have ever made. On a dark
+night lights on the hillside above, appear as stars from the bed of
+the stream. The scenery was majestic, and the vegetation very fine. The
+next day we commenced with a steep ascent of 2500 feet, and ended with
+a descent of 3000 feet to the Maghung river. From the Maghung next
+morning we started for Kongal Tannah, which we reached in good time.
+
+I carefully examined the place and saw the charred remains of the
+murdered men, and many bullets still sticking in the stockade. The
+evidence being complete, I turned homewards, and by travelling
+incessantly reached Manipur next morning to find that my wife had
+presented me with another son, the first pure European child born in
+Manipur. It had been an anxious time for me, and I was thankful to
+find both her and the baby well. We named the baby Arthur.
+
+I sent a full report of the Kongal case to the Government of India,
+and a demand for reparation was made at the Court of Mandalay,
+but it was not backed up with sufficient vigour. The outrage was
+unprovoked, and nothing less than the execution of the ringleaders,
+who were well known, would have satisfied Manipur, and, indeed,
+the claims of justice, but though the case dragged on for years, no
+redress was ever given. I predicted at the time that failure to do
+justice would eventually lead to underhand reprisals on the part of
+Manipur, as the Durbar could not understand our Government tolerating
+an attack of this kind on a protected state, and naturally ascribed our
+forbearance to weakness. I shall have to refer to the case farther on.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Discussions as to New Residency--Its completion--Annual boat
+    races--Kang-joop-kool--Daily work--Dealings with the Durbar.
+
+
+I have briefly described the old Residency which was rented from
+the Heir Apparent. Money had been sanctioned for a new Residency,
+to belong to the British Government, but there had been squabbles
+for a long time between my predecessors and the Durbar regarding a
+suitable site. Also such a building as was required could only be
+built with the help of the Durbar whom it was advisable to conciliate.
+
+One of my predecessors wished to build on a small hill called
+"Chinga," about a mile from the palace. It was an admirable site,
+and had the position of the Political Agent been similar to that in
+other Indian States, it could not have been better. But in Manipur, the
+representative of the Government of India was regarded by the Maharajah
+as a powerful prop and support in case of his throne being attacked,
+as was constantly the case in former years. On this ground the Durbar
+objected that it was too far off; also that the place was reported
+to be the residence of an evil spirit inimical to the Royal family,
+so that it was not a convenient spot for the Maharajah to visit. So,
+after many acrimonious disputes, the negotiation fell through.
+
+Another Political Agent chose a site called Ching-mai-roong, which
+in many ways was very satisfactory, and the Durbar reluctantly
+consented to give it, but it was a mile and a half from the palace,
+and therefore much out of the way. The question was still in abeyance
+when I arrived. As soon as I had time, I discussed the matter with
+the Durbar, and found the Maharajah much averse to my removal from
+the old site. He said "Where you are now, I can call to you; but if
+you go to a distance, I shall be cut off entirely."
+
+I quite saw the advisability of being on the spot, also in what I may
+call the fashionable quarter of the town; and, as from a sanitary point
+of view, the position was as good as any other, I agreed to stay, on
+condition that all the squalid houses and slums in the neighbourhood
+were cleared away, dirty tanks filled, and others deepened, and a fine
+large space cleared and handed over to me. I further insisted that
+I should have all the assistance necessary in building a suitable
+Residency. My terms were agreed to, and the work put in hand. I
+determined to have a building worthy of the representative of the
+British Government, and sacrificed everything to suitable rooms, and
+sound construction, so that it was not till the end of 1880 that it
+was finished.
+
+I was greatly indebted to my head clerk, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo, who
+acted as clerk of the works. The result was a charming residence. It
+was in the half-timber style of old English houses, modified to suit
+the climate, all on one floor, but raised on a solid brick foundation,
+which gave a lower storey seven feet in height, thus keeping us high
+and dry, the house being approached on four sides by flights of solid
+masonry steps. The lower storey was built so as to be shot proof, as I
+designed it as a place of retreat from stray shot for non-combatants,
+in the event of the Residency being again, as it had been before,
+subjected to a cross-fire from contending parties during one of the
+many revolutions so common to Manipur. Little did I dream that folly,
+and incompetency would ever lead to our being directly attacked!
+
+The large compound, about sixteen acres in extent, was surrounded
+by a mud breastwork and ditch, quite capable of being defended, if
+necessary, and there were four entrances which I named respectively,
+the Great Gate, the Milking Gate, my cows'-shed being close to it,
+the Water Gate and the Kang-joop-kool Gate. I made a riding road all
+round to exercise ponies, and besides making a splendid kitchen garden,
+adding considerably to Colonel McCulloch's, we laid out flower beds,
+and had cool shady spots for the heat of the day. Deodars and other
+exotic trees were imported by me and throve wonderfully. One large
+sheet of water with an island in the centre was cleared, deepened,
+and the banks repaired, and as I never allowed a bird to be killed, it
+was covered in winter with water-fowls to the number of four hundred
+and fifty or five hundred of every kind, from wild geese downwards,
+and rare birds took refuge in the trees. In the north-east corner of
+the compound were the lines for my escort, with a tank of the purest
+drinking water, where formerly squalor and filth had held sway. Finally
+I covered most of the large trees with beautiful orchids, so that in
+the season we had a blaze of colour. I spared no expense on the garden,
+and we were rewarded. Altogether the Residency and its grounds formed
+a beautiful and comfortable resting-place.
+
+The new building was also commodious and contained a handsome
+Durbar-room for receptions 24 feet square, fine dining and
+drawing-rooms, very airy and comfortable bedrooms, etc., with an
+office for myself. The pantry was so arranged that cold draughts
+of air, so great a drawback in Indian houses in cold weather,
+were avoided when dinner was being brought in. The bedrooms had
+fireplaces, and the sitting-rooms excellent stoves which in winter
+were very necessary. The shot-proof rooms in the basement were not
+used, except one for a storeroom, and the one under the verandah of
+the Durbar-room, used as a sleeping place by the men of my guard.
+
+The Great Gate was a picturesque half-timber structure, with rooms on
+either side, one of which I built specially as a pneumonia hospital,
+so it was designed with a view to maintaining an equable temperature,
+pneumonia being a great scourge among newly arrived Hindoostani
+sepoys. Not long after I left, it was diverted to other purposes,
+being considered too good for a hospital!
+
+"With the exception of the Residency, no house when I left Manipur,
+was built of brick, partly from fear of earthquakes, partly on
+account of expense. The ordinary houses of the people are huts with
+wattle and daub or mud walls, those of greater folks the same, but
+on a larger scale. Every house has a verandah in front with the main
+entrance leading from it, and a little side door on the north side
+close to the west end, the houses invariably facing east. The roofs
+are all of thatch, with the exception of the Rajah's, which was of
+corrugated iron. There were several temples built of brick stuccoed
+over. One in the palace had an iron roof, another a gilded one. I
+sent some models of these temples and several other buildings to the
+Indian and Colonial Exhibition of 1886, every beam and rafter being
+represented and made according to scale. The larger of the temples
+had bells of a fine deep tone. Some of the approaches to the Rajah's
+dwelling-house were made of brick. Formerly the palace enclosure
+was entered from the front by a quaint and picturesque old gateway,
+not beautiful, but characteristic of Manipur; the old Rajah Chandra
+Kirtee Singh substituted for it a tawdry and fantastic structure with
+a corrugated iron roof, a structure without any merit, and quite out
+of keeping with its surroundings. I remonstrated in vain; shoddy and
+vulgar tastes had penetrated even to Manipur, and the picturesque
+old building that spoke of bygone ages was doomed; but we who have
+destroyed so many fine buildings, have little right to criticise.
+
+"Close to the gateway is the place where the grand stand is erected,
+from which the Rajah and his relations view the boat races on the
+palace moat. I say 'view,' as in old age, a Rajah sits there all
+the time; but in the prime of life he takes part in these races,
+steering one of the boats himself. These boat races generally take
+place in September when the moat is full, and are the great event
+of the year. Every one turns out to see them, the Ranees and other
+female relations being on the opposite side of the moat, for in Manipur
+there is no concealment of women, while the side next to the road is
+thronged with spectators. The boatmen have a handsome dress peculiar
+to the occasion, and the whole scene is highly interesting. The boats
+are canoes hewn out of single trees of great size, and are decorated
+with colour and carving." [21]
+
+The valley of Manipur is hot and steamy in the rainy season, and
+Colonel McCulloch built a small hut at a place called Kang-joop-kool,
+situated on a spur of the Kowpree range, to the west of the valley
+at a height of 5170 feet above the sea. The distance from the capital
+was fourteen miles, and four from the foot of the hills, and he lived
+there for the whole of the rainy season, except for a few visits to
+the capital. His successors till my time did not stay there much,
+but I bought a small hut from my immediate predecessor, and pulled it
+down, and built a new one far more commodious. I enclosed the land,
+and laid out a small garden, and planted a wood of Khasia pines,
+the land being quite bare, and in time it became a most charming
+place. It was pleasant to leave the ceremonial life at the capital,
+where I never walked out without a train of followers clad in scarlet
+liveries, and settle down quietly at Kang-joop-kool where we could
+roam about the hills as if we had been in England.
+
+I spent little or no time in sporting, my eyes were never very good,
+and before I came to Manipur had become so deficient in what oculists
+call power of "accommodation," that, though formerly a fairly good
+shot, I was then a bad one. In one way this was an advantage, as all
+my interests were concentrated on my work, and nothing of greater
+interest could have been found. Somehow or other, there was subject
+for conversation with State officials and non-officials, to last me
+from early morning till night, and fill up every spare moment. My
+door was always open, and the guard at the great gate had orders to
+let every one pass. All the minor gates were unguarded.
+
+No attempt was made by the Durbar, as in other native states, to
+bribe the Residency servants, except in one notable case that happened
+before my time. All negotiations were carried on with the Political
+Agent direct, and the penurious Manipuris would have thought it waste
+of money to bribe his servants. This was a very satisfactory state
+of things, and probably saved many unpleasant complications.
+
+In my dealings with the Durbar, I always tried to bear in mind that
+I was the representative of the strong dealing with the weak, and
+so to ignore little silly acts of self-assertion, such as a native
+court loves to indulge in, and childish ebullitions, as unworthy of
+notice. Whenever it became necessary for me to interfere, I did so
+with great firmness, but always tried to carry the Maharajah and his
+ministers with me, and make any desired reform appear to emanate from
+him. Except on one occasion, I never experienced any rudeness from
+an official.
+
+At the same time when any attempt was made to infringe on the rights of
+the British Government or its subjects, I spoke in very unmistakable
+language. I think the Durbar gave me credit for good intentions and
+appreciated my desire to work with them; of course they tried to get
+all they could out of me, and it was a daily, but, on the whole,
+friendly struggle between us. I knew perfectly well that to exalt
+themselves, the Court party spoke of me behind my back in disparaging
+terms, and boasted of what they could do, and of their independence
+of the British Government, but I was quite satisfied that they did
+not believe what they said, and that in all important matters they
+deferred to me on every point, and were always coming to me to help
+them out of difficulties. I kept in mind Colonel McCulloch's wise
+saying to the Rajah: "I don't care what you say of me, so long as
+you do as I tell you."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Violent conduct of Prince Koireng--A rebuke--Service
+    payment--Advantage of Manipuri system--Customs
+    duty--Slavery--Releasing slaves--Chowba's fidelity--Sepoy's
+    kindness to children--Visit to the Yoma range.
+
+
+An incident occurred which might have caused some trouble, while
+it served to show the violent disposition of Kotwal Koireng, later
+known as the Senaputtee. One evening my Naga interpreter reported
+to me that an Angami Naga of Kohima had been cruelly assaulted by
+that prince, while he was passing along the road to the east of the
+palace enclosure. Soon after the man was brought in to me, and an
+examination by my native doctor proved that he was suffering from a
+severe contusion above the right eye, which might or might not prove
+fatal. Now, strictly speaking, the man was not a British subject,
+but some day or other he was sure to be one, and we had assumed an
+indefinite control over his people. This made me feel that passing
+over the offence as one not concerning us, would be to lose prestige
+with Manipur, as well as with the Naga tribes, who ought, I felt,
+to be assured of my sympathy. I therefore at once sent a strong
+remonstrance to the Durbar, claiming the man as a British subject, and
+demanding prompt recognition of, and reparation for the outrage. On
+further investigation it appeared, that the man was with some of his
+friends carrying a large joint of beef on his shoulder just as Kotwal
+Koireng was passing, and a few drops of blood fell on the ground;
+this enraged the Prince so much that he at once attacked the man
+with a thick stick which he carried, and beat him till he was almost
+senseless. There was no real provocation, as eating the flesh of cows
+that had died a natural death was always allowed, and any dead cow
+was at once handed over to the Nagas and other hill-tribes; it was
+simply an outburst of temper. The result was, that until the man's
+recovery was assured, Kotwal was held in a species of arrest; then
+he was released and sent with the Jubraj to make an apology to me;
+the man received a sum of money, and the affair ended amicably. I
+did not often come across the princes, though sometimes I met them
+out riding, and then we were very friendly. Once when I was walking
+out, I met one of the younger ones riding in state on an elephant,
+he forgot to make the usual salutation. This was reported to the
+Maharajah, who sent him with Thangal Major to apologize.
+
+The Manipuris paid very little revenue in money, and none in direct
+taxes. The land all belonged to the Rajah, and every holding paid a
+small quantity of rice each year. The chief payment was in personal
+service. This system known by the name of "Lalloop," and by us often
+miscalled "forced labour," was much the same as formerly existed
+in Assam under its Ahom Rajahs. According to it, each man in the
+country was bound to render ten days' service out of every forty,
+to the Rajah, and it extended to every class in the community. Women
+were naturally exempt, but, among men, the blacksmith, goldsmith,
+carpenters, etc., pursued their different crafts in the Rajah's
+workshops for the stated time, while the bulk of the population,
+the field workers, served as soldiers, and made roads or dug canals,
+in fact executed great public works for the benefit of the state.
+
+The system was a good one, and when not carried to excess, pressed
+heavily on nobody. It was especially adapted to a poor state sparsely
+populated. In such a state, under ordinary circumstances, where the
+amount of revenue is small, and the rate of wages often comparatively
+high, it is next door to impossible to carry out many much-needed
+public works by payment. On the other hand, every man in India who
+lives by cultivation, has much spare time on his hands, and the
+"Lalloop" system very profitably utilises this, and for the benefit
+of the community at large. I never heard of it being complained of as
+a hardship. The system in Assam led to the completion of many useful
+and magnificent public works. High embanked roads were made throughout
+the country, and large tanks, lakes, appropriately termed "seas," were
+excavated under this arrangement. Many of the great works of former
+ages in other parts of India are due to something of the same kind.
+
+It was a sad mistake giving up the system in Assam, without retaining
+the right of the state to a certain number of days' labour on the
+roads every year, as is the custom to this day, I believe, in Canada,
+Ceylon, and other countries.
+
+Unfortunately, our so-called statesmen are carried away by false
+ideas of humanitarianism, and a desire to pose in every way as the
+exponents of civilisation, that is the last fad that is uppermost,
+and the experience of ages and the real good of primitive people are
+often sacrificed to this ignis fatuus. I hear that "Lalloop" has been
+abolished in Manipur since we took the state in charge. We may live
+to regret it; the unfortunate puppet Rajah certainly will. Why cannot
+we leave well alone, and attack the real evils of India that remain
+still unredressed, evils that to hear of them, would make the hair of
+any decent thinking man stand on end? We have still to learn that the
+native system has much good in it, much to recommend it, and that it is
+in many cases the natural outgrowth of the requirements of the people.
+
+Manipur in old days required very little to make it a model
+native state of a unique type, and its people the happiest of the
+happy. All it required was a better administration of justice, and a
+few smaller reforms, also more enlightened fiscal regulations such as
+many European states have not yet attained. Given these, no one would
+have wished for more. No one asked for high pay; enough to live on,
+and the system of rewards already in force from time immemorial,
+satisfied all aspirations. The people were contented and happy, and
+it should have been our aim and object to keep them and leave them
+so. Shall we have accomplished this desirable object when we hand
+over the state to its future ruler, that is if it ever does again
+come under a Native Government?
+
+One of the standing grievances of the Government of India against
+Manipur, was the levying of customs duties on all articles
+imported into the state, and on some articles exported to British
+territory. These duties supplied almost the only money revenue
+the Maharajah had, and also to some extent protected Manipuri
+industries. During my tenure of office I did something towards
+regulating the system, and in the case of articles not produced in
+Manipur, induced the Durbar to lower the rates. In the case of cloths,
+however, I strongly advocated the duties being kept up, where, as
+in the case of coarse cloths the imports entered into competition
+with the excellent manufactures of Manipur, which I wished to see
+preserved in all their integrity.
+
+Our system of free trade has done much to injure useful trades in
+India, and none more than those in cotton goods. Among an ignorant
+people the incentives of cheapness and outward appearance are so great,
+that the sudden importation of cheap and inferior foreign goods may
+kill out an ancient art, and the people only discover when too late
+what they have lost, and then lament having abandoned the really good
+for the attractive flimsy article. Thus, in many parts of India,
+the beautiful chintzes which were common thirty-five years ago,
+are now nowhere to be had, and every year sees the decay of some
+branch of manufacture. This was very noticeable in Assam, and the
+arts there lost were only kept up in Manipur, owing to its having a
+Native Court where tradition and taste encouraged them. Soon after
+I went to Manipur, I found that the valley had almost been drained
+of ponies by their exportation to Cachar. The ministers consulted me
+about it, and I gave my consent to the trade being stopped, and this
+was done for years until the numbers had again increased.
+
+On the whole the duties on almost every article were lowered during
+my term of office, and the imports largely increased. Indeed, but for
+the cumbersome system of levying the custom charges, they would have
+been no grievance at all; and as it was they hardly added anything to
+the cost of the articles when sold in Manipur, many of which could
+be bought for little more than the price paid in Cachar, plus the
+charge for carriage.
+
+Slavery of a mild form existed in Manipur, the slaves being hereditary
+ones, or people, and the descendants of people who had sold themselves
+for debt, their services being pledged as interest for the debt. For
+instance a Naga (a very common case), marries a girl of another Naga
+village, thereby incurring a debt of forty rupees to the father,
+that being the price of a Naga bride. The man not being able to pay,
+his father-in-law says, "Sell yourself, and pay me." This is done, and
+the man pays the forty rupees and has to work for his master till he
+can pay the debt, something being sometimes allowed for subsistence,
+or they agree upon a monthly payment, which if not paid is added
+to the principal. The wife probably works and supports the family,
+and, if the creditor is a fairly good fellow, things go smoothly,
+and the debtor never attempts to fulfil his obligations more than
+he can help. The law allows a man to transfer his services to any
+one who will take up the debt. Here and there great abuses crop up,
+and the master takes advantage of the corrupt courts to bind the
+slave more and more securely in the chains of debt, and then every
+effort is made to escape. I often paid the debts of slaves who came
+to me for help and let them work off the money. Once a little girl
+named Nowbee came to me. Her mother had sold her to pay her father's
+funeral expenses. She stayed with us, working in the nursery for years,
+and when I left I forgave her the remainder of her debt which was
+unpaid, as, of course, I did with all the others. I once offered to
+redeem the mother, who, in turn, had sold herself, but the old woman
+declined, as some one told her that we should take her to England,
+and she was afraid to go. Sometimes cases of very cruel ill-treatment
+came before me, or cases where people had been made slaves contrary
+to the laws, and then I made a strong remonstrance to the Durbar,
+and insisted on justice. Once or twice I took the complainants under
+my protection immediately, and insisted on keeping them. One day a
+young man and a small boy came to me for protection: the case was
+a bad one, and I at once took them into my service as the best way
+of settling the difficulty, the young man as a gardener and the boy
+to work in the kitchen and wait at table; both were named "Chowba,"
+i.e. big; a name as common out there as John in England. We gave
+little Chowba clothes, and he stood behind my wife's chair at dinner,
+the first evening crying bitterly from fear. However, he learned his
+work, and became an excellent servant. When I went on leave in 1882,
+I offered to place him with my locum tenens, but the boy said, "No,
+sahib, you have been kind to me; I have broken your things and you have
+threatened to beat me, but have never done so; you have threatened to
+cut my pay, but have never done so; I will never serve any one but
+you!" The poor boy kept his word; he preferred hard toil, cutting
+wood and such-like work; but unfortunately died before I returned.
+
+Another bad case I remember, in which a woman complained to me that her
+child had been stolen from her house while she was away. I ordered the
+child to be brought to me; the poor little thing was only four years
+old, and could hardly stand from having been made to walk a great
+distance by the man who had stolen her, and whose only excuse was,
+that her father, who was dead, owed him nine rupees. I gave her to
+her mother, and insisted on the Durbar punishing him. The story was a
+sad one. The father of the child, a debtor slave, had been told by his
+master to leave his home and go with him, and the man in desperation
+attempted to kill his wife and little girl, and then committed suicide.
+
+While in Manipur I did all I could to afford relief in individual
+cases. It was a great abuse, but slavery in Manipur must not be put
+in the same rank as slavery in Brazil, the West Indies, or Turkey and
+Arabia. A thorough reform of the judicial system of Manipur would have
+entirely taken the sting out of it. All the same, I wish I could have
+abolished it.
+
+My wife's nurse very speedily left us, and we were left to natives
+and did much better with them. We always had three or four Naga girls
+who did their work well in a rough-and-ready way. Chowbee, Nembee,
+and Nowbee, just mentioned, were the best. Chowbee was the wife of
+a Naga bearer named Lintoo, and Nembee afterwards married our head
+bearer Horna. We engaged a tailor named Suleiman, brother of Sooltan,
+one of our chuprassies, as a permanent servant, to do the ordinary
+household sewing and mending. My two boys, Dick and Edward, became
+very friendly with all the people, and were drilled daily by a naick
+(corporal of my escort), and the good-natured sepoys used to allow
+themselves to be drilled by the boys. One afternoon, I met these two
+walking up the lines with my orderly. I asked what they were going
+for, and they replied that the sepoys had not done their drill well
+that day, and they were going to give them some more. Whenever a
+new detachment came, the boys were formally introduced to the new
+native officers and men. As they grew older they learned to ride,
+and rode out morning and evening when I went for a walk.
+
+As the Burmese difficulty did not show signs of decreasing, I went out
+in February to Kongjang on the Yoma range, to reconnoitre and select
+a place for a new stockade, if necessary. At three and a half miles
+on my way, I passed Langthabal, the old capital of Ghumbeer Singh,
+a pretty place where the cantonment of the Manipur Levy used to be,
+and where Captain Gordon was buried under a tree. The ruined palace
+lies nestling under a hill, on a spur of which is a magnificent
+fir tree; behind the palace a garden run to waste and wood, with
+a few ponds, formed an admirable cover for ducks, which I saw in
+abundance. After leaving Langthabal, we passed a place called Leelong,
+the place of execution for members of the Royal family, who are sewn
+up in sacks and drowned in the river. Farther on is a great fishing
+weir, where a small lake discharges itself into a river. At last,
+after a march of thirty miles, I halted at Pullel, a village of low
+caste Manipuris. Next morning we ascended the Yoma range, reaching
+Aimole, a village picturesquely situated and inhabited by a tribe
+of that name. The head of the village was an intelligent old man,
+who remembered Captain Gordon and talked a good deal about him. I
+gave him a coat, and the girls and boys of the village got up a dance
+for my benefit, the most graceful and modest that I ever saw among
+a wild people.
+
+I reached Kongjang in the afternoon, a place very picturesquely
+situated, with a fine view of the valley of the Lokchao and the hills
+beyond, and of a portion of the Kubo valley. I selected a spot for a
+stockade, and, after reconnoitring in the neighbourhood, marched back
+next day to Pullel, and thence to Manipur, again passing Langthabal. I
+never saw Langthabal without regretting its abandonment, there is
+something very charming about the situation, and it is nearer to
+Bissenpore on the Cachar road than Imphal; also a few miles nearer the
+Kubo valley. It has always had the reputation of being very healthy,
+which is not invariably the case with Imphal, and is, if anything,
+a little cooler. Before leaving in 1886, I strongly recommended it
+as the site for a cantonment, in the event of troops being stationed
+in the valley. My recommendation was adopted.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+    An old acquaintance--Monetary crisis--A cure for breaking
+    crockery--Rumour of human sacrifices--Improved postal
+    system--Apricots and mulberries--A snake story--Search after
+    treasure--Another snake story--Visit to Calcutta--Athletics--Ball
+    practice--A near shave.
+
+
+We had not been dull in the Naga Hills, still less in Manipur, for
+I was always interested in native life. Something to vary one's work
+was constantly occurring.
+
+One day some men in Shan costume came and asked me for a pass to enter
+Burmah. I inquired who they were, and one said he was the Chowmengti
+Gohain. I remembered him fourteen years before, at Sudya, in Assam,
+when he was but a boy. He was the son of a Khampti chief, long since
+dead. I asked him if he remembered me, and after a minute or two,
+he did. I managed to keep up a conversation in Singpho, though I had
+not spoken it for many years, and have never done so since. He was
+going to Mandalay to marry a daughter to the king.
+
+Time went on fairly smoothly. I was occupied all day long, and used to
+talk for hours to the ministers and others who came to see me, while my
+wife looked after the house and children, and taught the Naga girls to
+knit and sew, and other useful things. When the weather grew too hot,
+we migrated to Kang-joop-kool, and enjoyed the change. About this time
+much dissatisfaction was caused by speculators in the capital hoarding
+"sel," the coin of the country. The usual rate at which they were
+exchanged for the rupee was 480 = 1 rupee, but there were occasional
+fluctuations; large sums were paid in rupees, but the amount was
+always reckoned in sel. Consequently, when the latter were hoarded,
+a man having only rupees in his possession found their purchasing
+power greatly diminished. On this occasion, almost all the "sel" in
+circulation were collected in a few hands and a panic was the result;
+the bazaar was in an uproar, and business ceased. I spoke to the
+Maharajah on the subject, and represented the very great injury to
+the country that would inevitably result if immediate steps were not
+taken to rectify the mischief done, and urged him to issue a large
+quantity of sel. This he did, and the exchange which had gone down
+to 240, at once rose to 400, and at this rate he fixed it, and so it
+remained all the time I was in Manipur.
+
+Our Naga boys, though intelligent and willing to learn, were careless
+and often worse, as in playing and fighting with each other, they broke
+much crockery, and the loss was serious, as it took months to replace
+it. I threatened in vain, as I could not bear to make the poor lads
+pay. At last, in desperation, I hit upon a remedy; I said that the
+next time anything was broken, the breaker should pound it up to a
+fine powder with a pestle and mortar, and mix it with water and drink
+it. This threat had some effect, but at last one day the old cook
+brought up Murumboo, our musalchee (i.e. dishwasher) with a vegetable
+dish in pieces, broken, as usual, in play. I said very severely,
+"Very well, grind it to powder in a pestle and mortar, and then you
+shall mix it with water and drink it." So Murumboo sat for hours in
+the sun, pounding away. At last it was reduced to a fine powder, and I
+told him to mix it with water and drink it in my presence. Of course,
+what I had foreseen, happened, all the other servants headed by the
+old cook, Horna and Sultan, came up and humbly begged that he might
+be forgiven this time, a request which I graciously acceded to, and
+Murumboo went away very penitent. The result was excellent, as for the
+future I hardly lost any crockery. Poor Murumboo; he served me well,
+and became an excellent cook and got a good place when I finally left.
+
+The summer and autumn passed quietly, except for a rumour that human
+sacrifices had been offered up, though no actual complaint was made. I
+believe the report to have been true. I had seen enough of countries
+where within a few years they had been undoubtedly offered, to know
+that such things did occasionally happen among ignorant people, where
+appeasing evil spirits is a common custom. I took such precautions
+as effectually prevented any recurrence of this horrible practice.
+
+One reform carried out was in our postal arrangements. When I first
+arrived, the post, which came in every other day, frequently took eight
+days to reach us from Cachar, a distance of 132 miles. By altering
+the system, I reduced it to a maximum of four days, though it often
+came more quickly, and by constantly hammering at all concerned,
+I achieved the triumph of a daily post delivered in less than two
+days from Cachar before I left.
+
+Once when riding between Manipur and Kang-joop-kool, I saw, in passing
+a small bazaar, a woman selling apricots. I made inquiries about them,
+and was told that they had existed from time immemorial, but that they
+would give me a violent internal pain if I ate them. I did try them,
+raw and cooked, but the statement was quite true, nothing made them
+agreeable, and I did suffer pain. They were probably introduced from
+China in early days, and having been neglected had degenerated. They
+blossom in January. I tried Himalayan apricots, and the trees throve
+wonderfully, but could never, while I was in Manipur, learn to blossom
+at the right time. They blossomed as they were accustomed to do in
+their native country, that is three months too late, and the fruit was
+destroyed by the early rains. Perhaps they have by this time adapted
+themselves to the climate. I introduced Kabulee mulberries and they
+did well, but those in the valley grew long like the Indian variety,
+while those at Kang-joop-kool were shaped like the common European
+mulberry, and very good to eat.
+
+Another time when out riding in the evening, I witnessed a strange
+sight. I was near Kooak Kaithel when I saw a large number of sparrows
+assembled on the road in front, and perched on a clump of bamboos near;
+others were constantly joining them, and numbers were flying to the
+spot from all sides. They first joined the assemblage on the road,
+and then flew up to and around the bamboos, which were already covered
+with the first-comers. I asked one of my mounted orderlies what it all
+meant. He said that a snake was concealed among the bamboos, and that
+the birds were come to see him and try and drive him out. Whatever be
+the explanation, it was a very interesting sight, and I never at any
+time saw such a large number of small birds together. Once when riding
+along this same road, but farther on, in company with Thangal Major,
+I happened to see a deep hole freshly dug in the side of a hill,
+apparently without any object. I asked him what it was dug for, and
+he replied that it was probably some refugee returned to the land of
+his ancestors, who had dug it, in search for treasure buried during
+the Burmese invasion by a relation, who had left an exact description
+of the spot as a guide to any of his descendants who might return. He
+said that there were many cases of this kind. I used to hear the same
+story many years ago in Assam where the truth was never questioned,
+and many were the tumuli that bore the marks of having been opened by
+searchers "for buried gold." I never knew of an authentic case of the
+kind in Manipur, but doubtless old Thangal could tell of many such;
+possibly he had shared in the proceeds.
+
+I have just related a story of birds attacking a snake, and I
+may as well tell another story in which one of his tribe was the
+aggressor. When returning from my cottage at Kang-joop-kool, after
+a day spent there in October, I saw an enormous python poised up
+on the high embanked road with its head erect, and body and tail in
+coils on the slope, ready to spring on some young buffaloes grazing
+near; it must have been at the lowest estimate thirty feet long and
+of proportionate thickness. I was too near, and riding too fast, to
+stop my pony, so gave a loud shout, and urged him to speed, and the
+snake turned itself back and fell with a crash into a morass by the
+road side, and I saw no more of it. I spoke to Thangal Major about
+it, and he told me that pythons were known to exist about the place
+where I saw this. I once shot a young one on the Diphoo Panee river,
+near Sudya, which measured nine feet, and a sepoy of my old regiment
+shot one near Borpathar fifteen feet in length.
+
+Several very deadly snakes abound in Manipur, notably the "Tanglei"
+and the "Ophiophagus," a terrible looking creature, eight to twelve
+feet in length. No house is safe from snakes, and in the old Residency
+one fell from the roof once in my bedroom, from where a few minutes
+previously the baby's bassinette had hung, so the child had a narrow
+escape. I never dare let the children play alone in the garden for
+fear of their being bitten.
+
+The extreme loneliness of Manipur, and the necessity of leaving my
+wife and children quite alone sometimes, made me very anxious to get
+some trustworthy English nurse for her, but we quite failed in doing
+so. In this emergency, one of her sisters volunteered to come out,
+which was a great help and relief. As I had to go to Calcutta to see
+the Viceroy in December, we asked her to meet us there. We left Manipur
+on November 27th, 1878, and returned on January 23rd, bringing her
+with us. Kohima was occupied by the Political Agent of the Naga Hills
+(Mr. Damant), in November, and before leaving for Calcutta I had some
+correspondence with him, and, at his request, sent my escort--then
+consisting of Cachar Frontier Police; men, for service qualities in the
+hills, far superior to the Native Infantry I had--to his assistance.
+
+In Calcutta, I met Sir Steuart Bayley, who had been lately appointed
+Chief Commissioner of Assam, and had interviews with the Viceroy,
+Lord Lytton, and the Foreign Secretary, Mr. (now Sir Alfred) Lyall.
+
+Early in 1879, there was some discontent on account of the dearness of
+rice, owing to a deficient crop, but there was no real anxiety, as the
+stock of rice in hand was sufficient. I remember that during that time
+I was rather scandalised at hearing that the old Ranee had gone off to
+Moirang on the Logtak lake for change of air, accompanied by a retinue
+of over one thousand persons. Many people had been employed for weeks
+past in building a little temporary town for their accommodation,
+and all for five days' stay. I remonstrated with Thangal Major at
+this useless waste of resources at a time when food was scarce, and
+told him that he ought to prevent such thoughtlessness. He told me,
+and I believe sincerely, that he greatly regretted it, and promised
+to use his influence to amend matters, but said what was perfectly
+true, that if he gave good advice, there were plenty of people quite
+ready to offer the reverse, and contradict his statements. I often
+thought what an advantage it would have been, if we had insisted on
+all authority being in the hands of one powerful minister responsible
+to us. Under a strong man like Chandra Kirtee Singh there would have
+been some difficulty in arranging it, but under his weak, though
+amiable and intelligent successor, Soor Chandra, it would have been
+easy, and would have saved us one of the most painful and disgraceful
+episodes in our history.
+
+Almost every day brought some exciting news from the frontier. One
+day, an incursion by Chussad Kukies on the Kubo side; another, an
+outrage committed by Sookti Kukies. Then a little later a report that
+the Muram Nagas were restless. All these reports came to me at once,
+and I had to decide what was to be done. Occasionally an expedition
+was the result, regarding the conduct of which I gave general
+instructions. Sometimes late at night a minister came to me in a high
+state of excitement at some outrage on the Burmese frontier, in which,
+of course, every one, from the Court of Mandalay downwards, was said
+to be implicated. Anything against Burmah was readily believed, and
+not without reason, perhaps, judging from past history, and I had,
+on the spur of the moment, to decide on the policy to be adopted,
+and calm down and convince my impulsive visitor.
+
+Manipur is a great place for athletics, and some fine wrestling is to
+be seen there. Athletic sports are regularly held at stated periods,
+sometimes for Manipuris, at other times for Nagas. At the last there
+are races run by men, carrying heavy weights on their backs. At the
+conclusion of these exhibitions of strength and skill, four Manipuris,
+dressed in Naga costume, executed a Naga war dance. This I always
+thought the most interesting part of the performance, showing as
+in many other cases, the tacit acknowledgment of a connection with
+the hill-tribes surrounding them. It always reminded me of the
+same connection between the Rajahs in the hill tracts of Orissa,
+Sumbulpore and Chota Nagpore, and their aboriginal subjects. I am
+rather inclined to believe that in the case of Manipur some of the
+customs point distinctly to the Rajahs being descended from, or having
+been originally installed by, the hill-tribes, as was notably the
+case in Keonjhur one of the Cuttack Tributary Mehals. To this subject,
+however, I have already referred.
+
+During each cold season, I insisted on the Manipuri troops being put
+through musketry practice with ball cartridge, and often attended
+for hours together, with the Maharajah, to see how the men acquitted
+themselves. Sometimes the firing went on all day, the targets being
+erected at one end of the private polo ground in the palace, with a
+mountain of rice straw in their rear to catch stray bullets. Sometimes
+the bullets went through everything, and one evening, as my wife
+and myself with the children, were taking our evening walk, we had
+ocular demonstration of this, as a shot passed close to my second
+boy's (Edward) head. I spoke to Thangal Major about it, suggesting
+that the pile of straw should be made thicker, but only elicited the
+reply, "Of course, if you go in the line of fire, you must expect to
+be shot." This reminded me of my early days in Assam, when my old
+regimental friend Ross shot another friend out snipe shooting. The
+latter complained, but all the satisfaction he got from Ross was,
+"Well, you must have been in the way."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+    Spring in Manipur--Visit to Kombang--Manipuri orderlies--Parade
+    of the Maharajah's guards--Birth of a daughter--An evening walk
+    in the capital--Polo--Visit to Cachar.
+
+
+The spring in Manipur is a charming time, the nights are still cool,
+though the days are hot, and abundance of flowering trees come into
+blossom; among them one that attains a considerable size, called
+in Manipuri "Chinghow." It has two kinds, one with pink and the
+other white and pink flowers, Out in the hills are wild pears and
+azaleas in abundance, and rhododendrons, while here and there are
+beautiful orchids. The oak forests too are splendid with the fresh
+young leaves, and every hill village has peach trees in flower, so
+that it is a delightful season for marching, and one can be out from
+morning till night. I took advantage of the fine weather, and early
+in April again visited the Yoma range, and went along the road to
+Jangapokee Tannah, as far as a place called Kombang, 4600 feet above
+the sea. On my way there and back I halted at Haitoo-pokpee, 2600
+feet above the sea, where the thermometer at sunrise stood at 55 and
+56 degrees respectively; but the day between, when I was at Kombang,
+it was 67 degrees at sunrise, the additional elevation raising the
+thermometer. I noticed the phenomenon over and over again in Manipur,
+and in the cold weather generally found the sunrise temperature lower
+in the valley than in the hills. Upland valleys were sometimes colder
+than that of Manipur, and now and then to the north I found very great
+cold prevailing on high land, as at Mythephum. The day temperature
+in the hills was invariably lower than that in the valley, in short,
+it was more equable. The road to Kombang was pretty, but the place not
+particularly so. The night I was there I heard the loud crackling of
+a burning oak forest set on fire to clear the ground for one crop. It
+is difficult to speak with patience of this abominable system, which
+is gradually clearing the hills in Eastern India, and destroying
+valuable timber, while it encourages nomadic habits in the tribes.
+
+Whenever I went on an expedition into the hills, besides the usual
+Manipuri Guard in attendance, four or five officers or non-commissioned
+officers were told off to accompany me. Jemadars Thamur Singh, Sowpa,
+Sundha, Thut-tot, and Thurung were those generally sent, excellent
+men who never left me from morning till night, on the hardest
+march. Many was the adventure we had together, and any one of them
+could march fifty miles on end. They were well known throughout the
+hill territory of Manipur. A bugler always formed one of my party,
+and it was his duty to sound a lively quick march as we approached
+our camp in the evening. Of course, he always got a special reward
+from me on my return to headquarters.
+
+One day the Maharajah invited me to attend a review of his regiment
+of guards called the "Soor Pultun." I went, and he asked me whether
+he should put them through their manoeuvres himself, or let one of
+his officers do it. Not wishing him, as I thought, to expose his
+ignorance, I suggested the last; but, to my surprise, he conducted
+the parade himself very creditably, giving the word of command in
+English with great clearness. The men's marching was poor, and the
+step not free enough, but otherwise they did well. They were fairly
+well up in the Light Infantry exercises of ten years back, and their
+drill generally was a slight modification of that of 1859. On this,
+as on most occasions, when an invitation was sent by the Maharajah,
+it was conveyed by two or three officers of not lower rank than that
+of subadar or captain, and generally by word of mouth. If I was away
+in camp all communications were by letter, sometimes accompanied by
+a verbal message.
+
+On February 28th, 1879, we were gladdened by the birth of a little
+daughter. Being a girl, her arrival did not cause as much excitement
+as Arthur's, but when she was old enough to be carried out in a small
+litter, all the population turned out to see her, and passers-by
+would sometimes offer her a flower. How interesting our daily walks
+were. Turning to the left, after leaving our gate by the guard-house,
+we passed along by the wide moat surrounding the palace, and in which
+as has been said the great annual boat races were held. There, might
+be seen women washing their babies by the waterside in wooden tubs,
+cut out of a single block bought for the purpose. At every step, if
+in the evening, we passed or were passed by gaily clad women carrying
+baskets of goods to sell in the great bazaar, "Sena Kaithel," i.e.,
+Golden Bazaar, assembled opposite the great gate of the palace, the
+picturesque structure already alluded to. In this bazaar the women
+sat in long rows on raised banks of earth, without any other covering
+in the rainy weather than large umbrellas. Here could be bought cloth
+of all kinds, ornaments, rice, etc., fowls and vegetables. Dogs were
+also sold for food. As a rule, articles of food other than fowls,
+were more plentiful in the morning bazaar. Blind people and other
+beggars would post themselves in different parts of the market,
+and women as they passed would give them a handful of rice, or any
+other article of food they possessed. Women are the great traders,
+and many would walk miles in the morning, and buy things in the more
+distant bazaars to sell again in the capital in the evening. It was
+not considered etiquette for men too often to frequent the bazaars,
+and few Manipuris did so, but crowds of hill-men were constantly
+to be seen there, and it presented a very gay and animated scene,
+the contrast between the snow-white garments of Manipuri men, the
+parti-coloured petticoats of the women, and the many-coloured clothes
+of the hill-men being very picturesque. Opposite the great gateway on
+the right-hand side, Royal proclamations were posted up. There, too,
+in presence of all the bazaar, offenders were flogged, generally with
+the utmost severity. This was, I am sorry to say, rather an attractive
+spectacle to foreigners. Going through the bazaar along a fine broad
+road, the only masonry bridge in the country was seen crossing the
+river, and on the opposite bank the road turned sharp to the left,
+and went off to Cachar. Before crossing it, and to the left was a
+piece of waste ground with a rather ill-looking tree in it, under
+which men were executed. Opposite, and to the right of the road,
+was the sight of the morning bazaar. Here I have seen boat-loads of
+pine-apples landed, fruit that would have done credit to Covent Garden.
+
+Between the Residency grounds, the "Sena Kaithel" and the great road,
+was the famous polo ground, where the best play in the world might be
+seen. There was a grand stand for the Royal family on the western side,
+and one for myself on the north. Sunday evening was the favourite day,
+and then the princes appeared, and in earlier days the Maharajah. In
+my time one of the Maharajah's sons, Pucca Sena, and the artillery
+major, were the champion players. In Manipur, every man who can muster
+a pony plays, and every boy who cannot, plays on foot.
+
+But to continue our walk. Passing the bazaar, we still skirt the
+palace, meeting fresh groups and turning sharp round at one of the
+angles of the moat, here covered with water lilies, come upon an
+exceedingly picturesque temple once shaded with a peepul tree (Ficus
+religiosa); this tree was torn off by the great earthquake of June
+30th, 1880. Afterwards taking two turns to the right, and one to the
+left, and crossing a most dangerous-looking bamboo bridge, we came upon
+a piece of woodland on the opposite bank of the stream. This is the
+"Mah Wathee," a bit of forest left as it originally was for the wood
+spirits. It is now filled with monkeys, which are great favourites
+with my children who have brought rice for them which causes great
+excitement. But it is soon bedtime for the young monkeys, and the
+river being deep, they spring on to the backs of their mothers who
+swim across with them in the most human fashion. Saying good-night to
+the monkeys, we go homewards, passing Moirang Khung, a tumulus said
+to be the site of a battle between the Mungang and Moirang tribes; to
+this day a Moirang avoids it. We pass a couple of boys riding jauntily
+on one pony, determined to get as much pleasure out of life as they
+can. Finally, we reach home in time for a game with the children,
+and dinner.
+
+I have alluded to the high esteem in which the game of polo was held in
+this, its native home, and of the splendid play that could be seen on
+Sundays. I never played myself, much as I should have enjoyed it. Had
+I been a highly experienced player, able to contend with the best in
+Manipur, I might have done so; but I did not think I was justified,
+holding the important position I did, in running the risk of being
+hustled and jostled by any one with whom I played: men whom I was
+bound to keep at arm's length. Had I done so I should have lost
+influence. I could not be hail-fellow-well-met, and though talking
+freely with all, I at once checked all disposition to familiarity,
+and people rarely attempted it.
+
+Colonel McCulloch, it is true played, but he began life in Manipur
+as an Assistant Political Agent, and also did not succeed to office
+as I did, when our prestige had dwindled down to nothing.
+
+In September 1879, hearing that Sir Steuart Bayley, Chief Commissioner
+and Acting Lieut.-Governor of Bengal, was about to visit Cachar,
+I went there to see him, performing the double journey including a
+night there, in less than seven days. It was the first time I had
+made the march in the rainy season, and I was greatly struck by the
+extreme beauty of the scenery which was much enhanced by the number
+of waterfalls, that a month later would have been dry. The masses
+of clouds and the clearness of the air when rain was not falling,
+added greatly to the effect, and I enjoyed the journey till I got
+to the low-lying land. There the mud, slush, and great heat were
+unpleasant. It was very satisfactory to be able to discuss the affairs
+of Manipur with the Chief Commissioner, as though I was not then
+directly under him, I was from my position very dependent on him,
+and was anxious to hear his views on many subjects.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+    Punishment of female criminals--A man saved from execution--A Kuki
+    executed--Old customs abolished--Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh--The
+    Manipuri army--Effort to re-organise Manipur levy--System
+    of rewards--"Nothing for nothing"--An English school--Hindoo
+    festivals--Rainbows--View from Kang-joop-kool.
+
+
+Manipur professed to follow the old Hindoo laws, and accordingly no
+woman was ever put to death, or to very severe punishment. When one was
+convicted of any heinous or disgraceful offence she was exposed on a
+high platform in every bazaar in the country, stripped to the waist,
+round which a rope, one end of which was held by her guard, was tied
+and her breasts painted red. A crier at the same time proclaimed her
+crime, and with a loud voice called out from time to time, "Come and
+look at this naughty woman!"
+
+Exposure on a platform was also a punishment inflicted occasionally
+on male offenders. Sometimes it was followed by death. Once I saved a
+man from this part of the sentence, his crime being one for which our
+law would not have exacted so severe a penalty. Fortunately, I heard
+in time, and a message to the Maharajah in courteous, but unmistakable
+terms, brought about a remission of the capital portion. The ministers
+generally consulted me before carrying out sentence of death. Once in
+a case of murder by a Kuki they asked my opinion, so I requested them
+to send the man to me that I might examine him myself. This was done,
+and as he confessed openly to being guilty, I told them they might
+execute him, and as an after-thought said "How shall you put him to
+death?" Bularam Singh replied, "According to the custom of Manipur,
+in the way in which he committed the murder. As he split his victim's
+head open with an axe so will his head be split open." I said "I have
+no objection in this case on the score of humanity, but it is not a
+pretty mode of execution; some day there will be a case accompanied
+by circumstances of cruelty, when I shall be obliged to interfere;
+so take my advice, and on this occasion and all future ones, adopt
+decapitation as the mode of carrying out a death sentence. You can
+do it now with a good grace, and without any apparent interference
+on my part to offend your dignity." Old Bularam Singh said, "Oh no,
+the laws of Manipur are unalterable, we cannot change; we must do
+as we have always done." I said, "Nonsense, my old friend, go with
+Chumder Singh (my native secretary and interpreter) and give my kind
+message to the Maharajah, and say what I advise, as his friend." In
+half-an-hour Chumder Singh returned with an assurance that my advice
+was accepted, and from that time decapitation was the form of capital
+punishment adopted.
+
+I never knew a case of torture being employed, but otherwise the laws
+were carried out with severity. Ghumbeer Singh (reigned 1825-34)
+occasionally tore out an offender's eyes, but such things had been
+forgotten in the days of his son, and though the Government was
+strong, probably there were fewer acts of cruelty than in most native
+states. Once when Ghumbeer Singh had lately introduced tame geese
+into the country; he gave two to a Brahmin to take care of. It was
+reported that a goose was dead. "Tell the Brahmin to eat it," said
+the indignant Rajah. The severity of such an order to a Hindoo will be
+appreciated, by any one knowing what loss of caste entails. Ghumbeer
+Singh's orders were always implicitly obeyed, so I am afraid that
+the sentence was carried into effect.
+
+The army consisted of about 5000 men at the outside, in eight regiments
+of infantry and an artillery corps. The famous cavalry was a thing
+of the past, and many of the infantry were quite unacquainted with
+drill. There were eight three-pounder brass guns, and two seven-pounder
+mountain guns given as a reward for services in the Naga Hills,
+one of which did admirable service in the Burmese war. Most of the
+infantry were armed with smooth-bore muskets, some being of the
+Enfield pattern. Besides the above, there were about 1000 to 12,000
+Kuki Irregulars. A Manipuri military expedition was a strange sight,
+the men besides their arms and ammunition carrying their spare clothes,
+cooking vessels, food, etc., on their backs. All the same, they could
+make long and tiring marches day after day on poor fare and without
+a complaint, and at the end of a hard day would hut themselves and
+fortify their position with great skill, however great the fatigue
+they had undergone. It was a standing rule that in an enemy's country
+a small force should always stockade itself, and a Manipuri army well
+commanded was then able to hold its own against a sudden attack. On
+their return from a successful expedition the troops were greatly
+honoured, and the general in command accorded a kind of triumph, and
+it was an interesting sight to see the long thin line of picturesque
+and often gaily-clad troops, regulars and irregulars winding their
+way through the streets and groves of the capital bearing with them
+spoils and trophies gained in war. Here a party headed by banners,
+there some Kukis beating small gongs and chanting in a monotonous
+tone. Finally, after marching round two sides of the palace, they
+enter by the great gate, pass between the Chinese walls, and again
+between the two lions (so called), and being received by the Maharajah
+at the Gate of Triumph, their General throws himself at his feet and
+receives his chief's benediction, the greatest reward that he can have.
+
+I realised from the first that it would be an immense advantage
+to reconstitute the Manipur Levy, and keep up a permanent force of
+800 men under my direct orders, properly paid, armed, clothed and
+disciplined. I foresaw that a war with Burmah was a mere question of
+time, and wished to have a force ready, so as to enable the British
+Government to act with effect at a moment's notice through Manipur,
+on the outbreak of hostilities. Regular troops eat no more than
+irregular, and are ten times as valuable. My plan was to have 800 men
+enlisted, of whom 200 would have come on duty in rotation, according
+to the Manipur system, all being liable to assemble at a moment's
+notice. Thus a splendid battalion of hardy men could have been formed,
+with which I could have marched to Mandalay. Such a force would have
+been absolutely invaluable when the war broke out in 1885, men able to
+stand the climate, march, fight, row boats, dig, build stockades, in
+fact do all that the best men could be called upon to do. However, to
+my great disappointment, the idea did not commend itself to Government,
+and I never ceased to regret it. I often later on thought of the lives
+and money that might have been saved in 1885-86 had we been better
+prepared, the cost of the proposed levy would have been trifling.
+
+One part of the Manipuri system ever struck me as very admirable,
+and I tried always to encourage it; that was the system of rewarding
+services by honorary distinctions. The permission to wear a peculiar
+kind of turban, coat, or feather, or to assume a certain title was
+more valued than any money reward, and men would exert themselves
+for years for the coveted distinction. It is charming to see such
+simple tastes and to aspire no higher than to do one's duty and earn
+the approval of our fellow-creatures.
+
+One day the two ministers Thangal Major and Bularam Singh came to
+see me, accompanied by old Rooma Singh Major. They looked rather
+uneasy, and I suspected something was coming out. Presently Thangal
+rose and saluted me, and said, "The Maharajah has promoted us to
+be generals." I received the intelligence without any enthusiasm,
+feeling assured that the act had been dictated by a desire to give
+them a more high-sounding title than my military one, I being then
+only a lieut.-colonel. It was in fact a piece of self-assertion. Any
+one understanding Asiatics will know what I mean, and that I knew
+instinctively it was a move in the game against me which I ought to
+check. I coldly replied that of course the Maharajah would please
+himself, but that I loved old things, old names, and old faces, and
+that I had so many pleasant associations with the old titles that I
+could not bring myself to use the new ones, and should continue to
+call them by the dear old name of Major. I then shook hands with them
+most cordially and said good-bye, and they left rather crestfallen,
+where they had hoped and intended to be triumphant. I may as well tell
+the remainder of the story. Time after time was I begged to address
+my three friends as "General," but I was inexorable, and the titles
+almost fell into disuse among the Manipuris who had at first adopted
+them. Old Thangal once had a long talk about it, and I said plainly,
+"I give nothing for nothing: some day when you do something I shall
+address you as General." Years passed. I went on leave, and my locum
+tenens too good-naturedly gave in, and addressed them as General, and
+even induced the Chief Commissioner of the day to do likewise. When
+he wrote to me and told me of it, I was naturally not very pleased,
+and mentioned it to an old Indian friend, who said, "Well, you will
+have to do the same now that the Chief Commissioner has." However,
+I was not going to swerve from my word. I returned to Manipur, and one
+of the ministers met me on the boundary river. I again greeted him as
+"Major Sahib," and immediately the new titles again began to fall into
+disuse. I told the Chief Commissioner my views when I next met him,
+and he approved, as I said I could not alter my word.
+
+Some time after this I again renewed efforts that I had long been
+making for the establishment of an English school in Manipur. The
+Durbar naturally objected; wisely from their point of view, they knew
+as well as I did that the fact of their subjects learning English would
+eventually mean a better administration of justice, and a gradual
+sweeping away of abuses. I felt, however, that the time was come,
+and I urged the question with great force, and one day said to the
+ministers, "You have long wanted to be addressed as 'General,' and I
+told you that when you did something worthy of it I should do so. Now
+the day that the Maharajah gives his consent to an English school being
+established, I shall address you as General." A few days afterwards the
+Maharajah's consent was brought. I immediately stood up and shook hands
+most warmly with them, saying, "I thank you cordially, Generals." From
+that day the question was finally set at rest, after years of longing
+on the part of the old fellows. We had always understood each other,
+and they felt and respected the part I had taken, and, I believe,
+valued their titles all the more from my not having given in at once.
+
+The Rath Jatra Festival, i.e., the drawing of the Car of Juggernaut,
+is greatly honoured in Manipur, and every village has its Rath
+(car). The Dewali, the feast of lights, is also faithfully kept. Also
+the Rathwal, one of the feasts of Krishna, when there are many
+dances, and an enormous bird is cleverly constructed of cloth with a
+bamboo framework, and a man inside, who struts about to the delight
+of the children. The Koli Saturnalia is also duly celebrated; the
+red powder "Abeer," is thrown about amongst those who can get it,
+and the burning of the temporary shrines lights up the sky at night,
+and the holes where the poles stood, are a fertile source of danger to
+ponies and pedestrians for weeks afterwards. The Durga Poojah is kept,
+but is a feast of minor importance. At the Rath Jatra the number of
+people drawn together was enormous, and the white mass could be very
+distinctly seen from Kang-joop-kool with a telescope, when the weather
+was clear. This view was sometimes obscured by clouds, and often when
+staying there did I wake up to see the whole of the valley filled up
+with fog, like a vast sea of cotton-wool, stretching across to the
+Yoma range of hills many miles away.
+
+Lunar rainbows were not uncommon in Manipur, and I often saw them from
+Kang-joop-kool. Often, too, from thence have I seen a complete solar
+rainbow, each end resting on the level surface of the valley. Once,
+in riding to Sengmai on a misty morning, I saw a white rainbow rising
+from the ground; a fine and weird sight it was.
+
+The view over the valley at night from the surrounding hills was
+sometimes wonderful. I never shall forget one night in the rainy
+season, when the moon was shining brightly in the valley, but obscured
+from my view by an intervening cloud; the bright reflection on the
+watery plain sent out a long stream of light which brightened up
+the glistening temples of the Capelat. This, and the dim hills in
+the distance, and the whole amphitheatre enclosed by them lighted
+up faintly, while the dark threatening cloud hanging in air between
+me and the rising moon, that had not yet apparently reached my level
+(I was 2500 feet above the valley, and seemed to be looking down on
+the moon), made a picture never to be forgotten.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+    Mr. Damant--The Naga Hills--Rumours on which I act--News of
+    revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant's surrender--Maharajah's
+    loyalty--March to the relief of Kohima--Relief of Kohima--Incidents
+    of siege--Heroism of ladies--A noble defence.
+
+
+In November, 1878, Mr. Damant removed the headquarters of the Naga
+Hills District from Samagudting to Kohima, and established himself
+there with his party, in two stockades. He had a very ample force for
+maintaining his position, but he had not sufficient to make coercing
+a powerful village an easy task. He was an able man, with much force
+of character, high-minded and upright, and had been greatly respected
+in Manipur, where he acted as Political Agent for some months after
+Dr. Brown's death. He was also a scholar, and was perhaps the only
+man of his generation in Assam capable of taking a comprehensive view
+of the languages of the Eastern Frontier, and searching out their
+origin. His premature death was an irreparable loss to philology.
+
+With all this he had not had sufficient experience with wild tribes to
+be a fit match for the astute Nagas, and was constantly harassed by the
+difficulty in the way of securing supplies, which ought to have been
+arranged for him, in the early days of our occupation of Samagudting,
+by making terms with the Nagas as to providing food carriage. It was
+his misfortune that he inherited an evil system. We had been forced
+into the hills by the lawlessness of the Naga tribes, and we ought to
+have made them bear their full share of the inconveniences attendant
+on our occupation, instead of making our own people suffer.
+
+Mr. Damant at first contemplated getting his supplies from Manipur,
+through the Durbar, but they objected, it being their traditional
+policy to prevent the export of rice for fear of famines, the distance
+and cost of transport making the import, in case of scarcity, an
+impossibility. I declined to put pressure, as I saw the reasonableness
+of the Durbar argument, and I objected to force the hill population
+of Manipur to spend their time in carrying heavy loads, to save the
+turbulent and lazy Angamis. In September, 1879, however, I heard a
+rumour from native sources that Mr. Damant was in great difficulties
+and straits for want of provisions, [22] and I wrote and told him
+that if it were true, I would make every effort to send him some
+supplies, and to help him in every way I could. I did not receive
+any answer to this letter, and subsequently ascertained that it had
+never reached him.
+
+I knew the Angamis well, and was very anxious about Mr. Damant and
+his party, and felt sure that some trouble was at hand.
+
+About this time my wife's health began to give me much anxiety; she
+had one or two severe attacks of illness, and was much reduced in
+strength. Who that has not experienced it can imagine the terrible,
+wearing anxiety of life on a distant frontier, without adequate medical
+aid for those nearest and dearest to us. She was better, though still
+very weak, when an event occurred that shook the whole frontier.
+
+Early in the morning of October 21st, I received a report from Mao
+Tannah, the Manipuri outpost on the borders of the Naga Hills, to the
+effect that a rumour had reached the officer there, that the Mozuma
+Nagas had attacked either Kohima, or a party of our men somewhere else,
+and had killed one hundred men. I have already mentioned my anxiety
+about Mr. Damant's position, and there was an air of authenticity
+about the report which made me feel sure that some catastrophe had
+occurred, and that he was in sore need. I said to Thangal Major,
+"We will take off fifty per cent. for exaggeration, and even then the
+garrison of Kohima will be so weakened that it is sure to be attacked,
+and there will be a rising in the Naga Hills."
+
+I instantly took my resolve and detained my escort of the 34th B.I.,
+which had just been relieved by a party of Frontier Police, and was
+about to march for Cachar. I also applied to the Maharajah for nine
+hundred Manipuris, and sufficient coolies to convey our baggage. He
+at once promised them, and I made arrangements to march as soon as
+the men were ready; but there was some delay, as the men had to be
+collected from distant villages. The next morning, before sunrise,
+Thangal Major came to see me, bringing two letters from Mr. Cawley,
+Assistant Political Agent, Naga Hills, and District Superintendent of
+Police. The letters told me that Mr. Damant had been killed by the
+Konoma men, and that he and the remainder were besieged in Kohima,
+and sorely pressed by Nagas of several villages. Immediately after
+this, the Maharajah himself came and placed his whole resources at
+my disposal, and asked me what I would have. I said two thousand men,
+and he replied that that was the number he himself thought necessary,
+and asked if he should fire the usual five alarm guns, as a signal
+to call every able-bodied man to the capital. I consented, and in
+ten minutes they thundered forth their summons. Coolies to carry the
+loads were the chief difficulty, as they, being hill-men, lived at
+a greater distance. I also despatched a special messenger to Cachar
+to ask for more troops and a doctor; and I made arrangements for
+assisting them on the road. I despatched two hundred Manipuris by a
+difficult and little-frequented path to Paplongmai (Kenoma [23]),
+to make a diversion in the rear of Konoma, as, from all I heard,
+it seemed that the astute Mozuma was not involved. I sent on a man
+I could trust to the Mozuma people, to secure their neutrality. I
+also sent my Naga interpreter, Patakee, to Kohima, to do his best
+to spread dissension amongst its seven different clans and prevent
+their uniting against me. I gave him a pony, and told him to ride it
+till it dropped under him, and then to march on foot for his life,
+and promised him 200 rupees reward if he could deliver a letter to
+Mr. Cawley before the place fell. In the letter I begged Mr. Cawley
+to hold out to the last as I was marching to his assistance.
+
+One day, about a year before, a fine young Naga of Viswema, a powerful
+village of 1000 houses, a few miles beyond the frontier of Manipur and
+right on our track, had come to me and asked me to take him into my
+service. I did so, thinking he might be useful some day, and now that
+the day had arrived, I sent him off to his people to win them over,
+threatening to exterminate them if they opposed my march.
+
+I had fifty men of the Cachar Police and thirty-four of the 34th B.I.,
+including two invalids, one of them a Naik, by name Buldeo Doobey,
+who came out of hospital to go with me, as I wanted every man who could
+shoulder a musket. For the same reason I enlisted a volunteer, Narain
+Singh, a fine fellow, a Jat [24] from beyond Delhi, who had served
+in the 35th B.I., so he took a breach-loader belonging to a sick man
+of the 34th. I shall refer to him again. He carried one hundred and
+twenty rounds of ball cartridge on his person, three times as much
+as the men of the 34th. I sent off my combined escort with all the
+Manipuris who were ready under Thangal Major, and stayed behind to
+collect and despatch supplies and write official letters and send off
+telegrams to Sir Steuart Bayley, and on the 23rd rode out, and caught
+up my men at Mayang Khang, forty miles from Manipur. The rear-guard
+of the 34th had not come up when I went to bed that night at 11 P.M.
+
+I left my poor wife still very weak and I was thankful that she had her
+good sister as a stay and support. Just before leaving, our youngest
+boy Arthur held out his arms to be taken. I paused from my work for
+a moment and took him. It was the last time I saw him. Sad as was my
+parting, I rode off in high spirits; who would not do so when he feels
+that he may be privileged to do his country signal service! Besides,
+I hoped to find all well when I returned.
+
+We left Mayang Khang on October 24th and marched to Mythephum, twenty
+miles along a terribly difficult mountain path, much overgrown by
+jungle. It was all I could do to get the 34th along, as they were
+completely knocked up. I had a pony which I lent for part of the way
+to one of my invalids and so helped him on. I was continually obliged
+to halt myself and wait for the stragglers, cheer them up, and then
+run to the front again. Narain Singh was invaluable and seemed not
+to know fatigue. We reached Mythephum after dark, but the rear-guard
+did not arrive till next morning.
+
+At Mythephum I mustered my forces. The Maharajah had sent the Jubraj
+and Kotwal Koireng with me (little did I think of the fate in store
+for them and for old Thangal [25]) and found that very few Manipuris
+had arrived, and almost all of the force with me were so knocked
+up that, to my intense disappointment, I had to make a halt. I was
+too restless to sit still, so spent the day in reconnoitring the
+country. In the evening I had an interview with Thangal Major and
+afterwards with the Jubraj. Old Thangal was for halting till we
+could collect a large force as he said a large one was required,
+and he begged me to halt for a few days. I finally pointed out that
+a day's halt might cause the annihilation of the garrison of Kohima,
+and said that if the Manipuris were not ready to move, I would go
+along with any of my own men who could march. I appealed to the
+Jubraj to support me which he did, [26] and for which I was ever
+grateful, and we arranged to march next day. I found that the Nagas
+of Manipur were infected with a rebellious spirit, and not entirely
+to be depended on, and any vacillation on our part might have been
+fatal, and would certainly have sealed the fate of Kohima.
+
+We left Mythephum at daybreak on the 26th, and marched as hard as we
+could, as I hoped to cover the forty miles to Kohima by nightfall. We
+stopped to drink water at the Mao river, which we forded, and to
+prevent men wasting time, I drew my revolver and threatened to shoot
+any one who dawdled. We ascended the steep hillside, and passing
+through one of the villages marched on to Khoijami, a village on the
+English side of the border. We had been so long, owing to the extreme
+badness of the roads, and the fatigue of the men, that we only reached
+it at 3 P.M., so I reluctantly halted for the night.
+
+Here my emissary to Viswema joined me, and told me that he had induced
+his fellow-villagers to be friendly, and that presents would be sent. I
+sent him back to demand hostages, and the formal submission of the
+village, as otherwise I would attack them on the morrow and spare no
+one. It was not a time for soft speeches, and I heard rumours that
+we were to be opposed next day.
+
+Late in the afternoon some Mao Nagas brought in seven Nepaulee coolies
+who had escaped from Kohima the previous day, and wandered through the
+jungle expecting every moment to be killed. I gave the Mao men twenty
+rupees as a reward. The Nepaulees said that they had been shut outside
+the gate of the stockade by mistake, and had hidden themselves and
+so got away. They gave a deplorable account of affairs, and said that
+there was no food, and that the ammunition was almost all spent, and
+that two ladies were in the stockade, Mrs. Damant and Mrs. Cawley. They
+stated that Mr. Damant was taken unawares and shot dead, and fifty men
+killed on the spot, and that thirty ran away and hid in the jungles,
+some saving their arms, others not. Each man had fifty rounds of ball
+cartridge. Most of the rifles lost were breech-loaders. The men told
+me that early that morning they had seen smoke rising from Kohima,
+and thought it might have been burned.
+
+All this made me very anxious, as the men said that Mr. Cawley was
+treating for a safe passage to Samagudting. Late in the evening I heard
+that a building inside the stockade had been burned by the Nagas, who
+threw stones wrapped in burning cloth on to the thatched roofs. The
+Nagas in arms were said to number six thousand, and they had erected
+a stockade opposite ours from which they fired. The fugitives were
+in a miserable state of semi-starvation, and ashy pale from terror,
+and seemed more dead than alive when they were brought to me. We slept
+on our arms that night, at least such as could sleep, and rose at 3
+A.M. in case of an attack, that being a favourite time for the Nagas
+to make one.
+
+When ready, I addressed my men, telling them the danger of the
+enterprise, but assuring them of its success, and urging them, in
+case of my being killed or wounded, to leave me and push on to save
+the garrison. I promised the Frontier Police that every man should
+be promoted if we reached Kohima safely that night. This promise the
+Government faithfully kept.
+
+At sunrise I received two little slips of paper brought by two
+Nepaulese coolies who had managed to escape, signed by Mr. Hinde,
+Extra Assistant Commissioner, and hidden by them in their hair. On
+them was written:--
+
+
+Surrounded by Nagas, cut off from water Must be relieved at once. Send
+flying column to bring away garrison at once. Relief must be immediate
+to be of any use
+
+H. M. Hinde. A. P. A. Kohima. 25 x. 79.
+
+
+and--
+
+
+We are in extremity, come on sharp Kohima not abandoned.
+Kohima not abandoned
+
+
+H. M. Hinde. A. P. A. 26 x. 79.
+
+
+After getting these, I could not wait any longer, and, as the Manipuris
+were not all ready, I started off at once with fifty of them under
+an old officer, Eerungba Polla and sixty of my escort, all that were
+able to make a rapid march, and Narain Singh. We carried with us my
+camp Union Jack.
+
+I obtained hostages from Viswema and placed them under a guard with
+orders to shoot them instantly, if we were attacked, and on our arrival
+at the village we were well received. At Rigwema, as we afterwards
+discovered, a force of Nagas was placed in ambush to attack us, but
+the precautions we took prevented their doing so, and we passed on
+unmolested, and soon had the satisfaction of seeing the stockade at
+Kohima still intact. A few miles farther, and on rounding the spur of
+a hill, the stockade appeared in full view and we sounded our bugles
+which were quickly answered by a flourish from Kohima.
+
+We marched on with our standard flying, we reached the valley below,
+we began the ascent of the last slope, and forming into as good order
+as the ground would allow, we at last gained the summit and saw the
+stockade, to save which, we had marched so far and so well, before
+us at a distance of one hundred yards.
+
+The garrison gave a loud cheer, which we answered, and numbers of them
+poured out. Messrs. Cawley and Hinde grasped my hand, and others of the
+garrison formed a line on either side of the gateway, and we marched
+in between them. I recognised many old faces not seen since I had left
+the Naga Hills in 1874, and warmly greeted them; especially Mema Ram,
+a Subadar in the Frontier Police; Kurum Singh, and others. I was told
+afterwards that when Mema Ram first heard that I was marching to their
+relief, he said, "Oh, if Johnstone Sahib is coming we are all right."
+
+I at once told the officers of the garrison that there could be no
+divided authority, and that they must consider themselves subject to my
+orders, to which they agreed. I then saw the poor widowed Mrs. Damant,
+and Mrs. Cawley who had behaved nobly during the siege. While talking
+to the last, one of her two children asked for some water. Her mother
+said in a feeling tone, "Yes, my dear, you can have some now." Seldom
+have I heard words that sounded more eloquent.
+
+The Manipuris now began to pour in, in one long stream, and were
+greeted by the garrison with effusion, and I gave them the site of a
+stockade that had been destroyed by Mr. Cawley, in order to reduce the
+space to be defended as much as possible, and told them to stockade
+themselves, which they did at once. After arranging for the defence
+of our position, I sent off a letter to my wife to say that I was
+safe, and that Kohima had been relieved, and telegrams to the Chief
+Commissioner, and Government of India, to be sent on at once to Cachar,
+the nearest telegraph office, informing them of the good news.
+
+It appeared from what Mr. Cawley told me, that on the 14th of October,
+Mr. Damant had gone to Konoma from Jotsoma, to try and enforce some
+demands he had made. He had been warned several times that the Merema
+Clan of Konoma meant mischief, and several Nagas had implored him
+not to go, and finding him deaf to their entreaties, begged him to go
+through the friendly Semema Clan's quarter of the village. However,
+he insisted on having his own way, and went to the gate of the Merema
+Clan at the top of a steep, narrow path. The gate was closed, and
+while demanding an entrance, he was shot dead. His men were massed
+in rear of him, and a large number were at once shot down, while
+the others took to flight. Some of the fugitives reached Kohima that
+night, and Mr. Cawley at once, grasping the gravity of the situation,
+pulled down one stockade, and dismantled the buildings as already
+related, concentrating all his men in the other, and making it as
+strong as possible. The neighbouring villages had already risen,
+and were sending contingents to attack Kohima.
+
+Mr. Cawley had just time to send a messenger to Mr. Hinde, the
+extra-Assistant Commissioner at Woka, a distance of sixty-three miles,
+ordering him to come in with the detachment of fifty police under
+him. These orders Mr. Hinde most skilfully carried out, by marching
+only at night, and on the 19th he reached Kohima, thus strengthening
+the garrison and making it more able to hold its own, for the number
+of the attacking party now greatly increased.
+
+Most fortunately, owing to the zealous care of Major T. N. Walker,
+44th R. L. Infantry, there were some rations in reserve for the troops,
+which were shared with the non-combatants and police. These he had
+insisted on being collected and stored up, when he paid a visit of
+inspection to Kohima some months before. But for this small stock
+the place could not have held out for two days, but must inevitably
+have fallen, as all supplies were cut off during the progress of
+the siege. The water was poisoned by having a human head thrown into
+it. The Nagas fired at the stockade continually, but made no regular
+assault. They seemed to have tried picking off every man who showed
+himself, and starving out the garrison. The quantity of jungle that
+had been allowed to remain standing all round afforded them admirable
+cover, and, as before stated, they erected another small stockade
+from which to fire. This they constantly brought nearer and nearer
+by moving the timbers.
+
+At length, the garrison wearied out, entered into negotiations,
+and agreed to surrender the stockade, if allowed a free passage to
+Samagudting. This fatal arrangement would have been carried into
+effect within an hour or two, had not my letter arrived assuring them
+of help. What the result would have been no one who knows the Nagas can
+doubt; 545 headless and naked bodies would have been lying outside the
+blockade. Five hundred stands of arms, and 250,000 rounds of ammunition
+would have been in possession of the enemy, enough to keep the hills
+in a blaze for three years, and to give employment to half-a-dozen
+regiments during all that time, and to oblige an expenditure of a
+million sterling, to say nothing of valuable lives. [27]
+
+Throughout the siege, Mrs. Damant, and Mrs. Cawley had displayed much
+heroism. The first undertook to look after the wounded, and went to
+visit them daily, exposed to the enemy's fire. Mrs. Cawley took charge
+of the women and children of the sepoys, and looked after them, keeping
+them in a sheltered spot. The poor little children could not understand
+the situation at all, or why it was that the Nagas were firing.
+
+The casualties would have been more numerous than they were, but that
+the Nagas were careful of the cherished ammunition, and seldom fired,
+unless pretty sure of hitting. All the same, the situation was a very
+critical one, and not to be judged by people sitting quietly at home
+by their firesides. It is certainly a very awful thing, after a great
+disaster and massacre, to be shut up in a weak stockade built of highly
+inflammable material, and surrounded by 6000 howling savages who spare
+no one. In addition to that too, to have the water supply cut off,
+and at most ten days' full provision; for this was what it amounted
+to. It must be also remembered that the non-combatants far out-numbered
+the combatants, and that the two officers who undertook the defence
+were both civilians. Anyhow, the view taken of it by the defenders is
+shown by the fact that they were willing to surrender to the enemy,
+rather than face the situation and its terrible uncertainty any longer,
+as they were quite in doubt as to whether relief was coming or whether
+their letters having miscarried they would be left to perish.
+
+Looking back, after a lapse of fifteen years, and calmly reviewing
+the events connected with the siege of Kohima, I think I was right
+at the time in describing the defence as a "noble one."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+    Returning order and confidence--Arrival of Major Evans--Arrival
+    of Major Williamson--Keeping open communication--Attack on
+    Phesama--Visit to Manipur--General Nation arrives--Join him at
+    Suchema--Prepare to attack Konoma--Assault of Konoma.
+
+
+Early on the morning of the 28th, I took out all the men I could
+collect and set to work to clear away the jungle in the neighbourhood
+of the stockade so as to give no covert to enemies. I also did my
+utmost to collect supplies. Kohima, with its twelve hundred houses,
+was able to give a little, and I sent to distant villages. I also sent
+to the head-man of Konoma to ask for Mr. Damant's body. The man at
+once sent in the head, but said that the body had been destroyed. A
+true statement, I have no doubt, as the head is all the Nagas value,
+and the body would have been given up instantly had it existed. His
+signet ring, and several other little articles were also sent. The
+head was buried with due honours, the Manipuri chiefs drawing up
+their men and saluting as the funeral procession passed. The Jubraj,
+Soor Chandra Singh, spoke very feelingly on the subject.
+
+The watercourse, which formerly supplied the garrison, had been
+diverted, and the only other supply had been, as already stated,
+poisoned by a head being thrown into it. My first business was to see
+that the water communication was restored, to every one's comfort. Some
+of my old acquaintances among the Nagas began to come in, and there
+was a great disposition to be friendly.
+
+The next day a sepoy of the 43rd, who had escaped the massacre and
+lived in the jungle, was brought in by some friendly Nagas. He was
+almost out of his mind, and nearly speechless from terror, and could
+not walk, so was carried on the man's back.
+
+I made up my mind to attack Konoma as soon as I could, and the people
+knowing this, tried negotiations with my Manipuri allies. So great
+was the fear we inspired that at first I believe I could without
+difficulty have imposed more severe terms than were obtained later
+on after four months' fighting. With Asiatics especially, everything
+depends on the vigour with which an enterprise is pushed forward. The
+Nagas never expecting an attack from the side of Manipur, were at
+first paralysed. All the villages were without any but the most
+rudimentary defences, in addition to those which nature had given
+them from their position; not one of them could have stood against
+a well-directed attack.
+
+I was in the midst of my preparations when, on the 30th October, Major
+(now Major-General) Evans, of the 43rd Assam Light Infantry, arrived
+with two hundred men, who had come with him from Dibroogurh. I also
+received a telegram saying that General Nation was coming up with
+one thousand men and two mountain-guns, and might be expected on the
+9th November. I was also given strict orders to engage in no active
+operations till his arrival. These orders I at first disregarded,
+feeling the urgent necessity of instant action before the Nagas had
+time to recover from their surprise. However, next day the order was
+reiterated so strongly, and in the Chief Commissioner's name, that,
+believing that the Government had some special reason for the order,
+I accepted it, much to my disappointment, as I felt the urgent
+necessity of an immediate advance. Konoma was still unfortified,
+and a few days would have sufficed to capture it, and place the Naga
+Hills at our feet. As it was, the delay, not till November 9th, but
+November 22nd, owing to defective transport arrangements, gave the
+enemy time to recover, and when we tardily appeared before Konoma, we
+found a scientifically defended fortress, whose capture cost us many
+valuable lives. The order, it subsequently appeared, was not issued by
+Sir Steuart Bayley, [28] and was altogether due to a misapprehension.
+
+As there was to be no immediate work, I urged Major Evans to take
+up his post at Samagudting, where a magazine containing 200,000
+rounds of ammunition was very inefficiently guarded; he, however,
+left a subaltern, Lieut. (now Captain) Barrett with me, as I wanted
+another officer. On their way, some men of the 43rd had shot two
+Nagas, one a relation of the chief of the Hepromah clan of Kohima,
+a most unfortunate proceeding, and quite uncalled for, as the men were
+quietly working in their fields. I was already sufficiently embarrassed
+by the promises made by the garrison to the so-called friendly clans
+of Kohima, to induce them to be neutral during the siege, and which
+I felt bound to keep, and this additional complication added to my
+troubles. People situated as the garrison were should make no promises
+except in return for real help.
+
+All this time troops and supplies came pouring in from Manipur in
+one long thin stream, and the greatest efforts were made to collect
+supplies on the spot. I also forced the unfriendly Chitonoma clan of
+Kohima to surrender six rifles they had captured, and to pay a fine of
+200 maunds of rice. We had been expecting a force of Kuki irregulars
+from Manipur; these now arrived, and I had a talk with the chief,
+who said: "Our great desire is to attack that village," pointing to
+Kohima, "and to kill every man, woman, and child in it!" He looked
+as if he meant it.
+
+One day a cat was caught that had given great trouble stealing
+provisions, etc., we all wanted to get rid of it, but Hindoos do
+not like having cats killed, and I respected their prejudices when
+possible, and there were many Hindoos about us, so I said, "I won't
+have it killed, unless some one wants to eat it." A Kuki soon came and
+asked to be allowed to make a dinner of it, and then I gave my consent,
+and our scourge was removed. I once asked a sepoy of my old regiment
+why they objected to killing cats. He said, "People do say that if
+you kill a cat now you will have to give a golden cat in exchange in
+the next world as a punishment, and where are we to get one?"
+
+To keep open communications, I established Manipuri posts in strong
+stockades at all the principal villages on the road to the frontier,
+and had daily posts from Manipur. To my great distress, I heard that
+my youngest boy, Arthur, was ill, and my wife in much anxiety about
+him; but I could not leave to help her.
+
+Our forced inaction had, as I anticipated, been misinterpreted by the
+Nagas. Some decisive action was much needed, and I attacked the hostile
+Chitonoma clan of Kohima, and destroyed part of their village. On the
+10th, as a party of men were bringing in provisions from Manipur,
+they had been attacked by some of the Chitonoma clan in the valley
+below our position. I heard the firing, and ran out of the stockade
+with a party to drive off the enemy.
+
+At the gate, a man who had just arrived, put a letter in my hand. I
+read it anxiously, it told me that my child was dead. My wife and I
+had chosen a spot at Kang-joop-kool where we wished to be buried in
+case either of us died, and there she buried him.
+
+We soon cleared out the Chitonoma men, and I found that with the
+troops escorting the provisions was Dr. Campbell from Cachar, whose
+arrival was very welcome. I remember in connection with him a striking
+incident showing the courage of Manipuris in suffering. A man who
+had been wounded in an encounter had to have an operation performed
+on his arm. Dr. Campbell wanted to give him chloroform as it would be
+very painful. But the man refused, saying, "I will not take anything
+that intoxicates," and at once held out his arm and submitted to the
+knife without flinching!
+
+Every day the delay in the commencement of active operations made the
+Nagas more and more confident, and some vigorous action on our part
+was absolutely necessary. I heard from spies that our Manipuri post at
+Phesama was about to be attacked by the people of the village, who held
+nightly converse with emissaries from Konoma. I therefore determined to
+punish Phesama, which was not far from Kohima, and on November 11th,
+I sent a party of Manipuris and Kukis who destroyed the village in a
+night attack, and killed a large number of people. They brought in
+twenty-one women and children as prisoners whom the Manipuris had
+saved from the Kukis, who would have spared neither age nor sex had
+they gone alone.
+
+The next day my old friend Captain Williamson arrived to act as my
+assistant, I having been appointed Chief Political Officer with the
+Field Force that was being formed. Having now a competent man to leave
+in charge, I determined to go to Manipur for a few days, and marched
+to Mythephum on the 13th, and rode thence on the 14th to Manipur,
+accomplishing the whole distance of over 100 miles in thirty-one
+and a half hours. I stayed one day in Manipur and then returned,
+reaching Kohima on the 17th.
+
+On November 20th, General Nation having arrived at Suchema, ten
+miles from Kohima, Williamson and I left to join him. We were fired
+at on the road, but got in safely and found all well and in good
+spirits. The troops consisted of 43rd and 44th Assam Light Infantry and
+two seven-pound mountain-guns under Lieut. Mansel, R.A. Lieut. (now
+Major) Raban, R.E., was engineer-officer and Deputy Surgeon-General
+(now Surgeon-General, C.B.) De Renzy was in charge of the Medical
+Department. Major Cock, a well-known soldier and sportsman, was
+Brigade Major.
+
+On the 21st, the guns arrived on elephants, and feeling sure that
+no proper carriage could have been provided for their transport, I
+had taken the precaution to bring one hundred Kuki coolies to carry
+them. The assault was to be next day. Mozuma remained neutral, and
+even gave us a few coolies and guides. [29]
+
+How well I remember the night of the 21st. Williamson and I dined
+with the General and all the staff, and poor Cock, great on all
+sporting subjects, told us in the most animated way, stories of whaling
+adventures when he was on leave at the Cape. He warmed to his subject
+and greatly interested us; he was a fine gaunt man of over six feet
+in height, and great strength and ready for any enterprise; some of
+the Mozuma Nagas knew him and liked him as they had, years before,
+been on shooting expeditions with him in the Nowgong jungles. Besides
+this we had a surgical address from Dr. De Renzy, who told us what to
+do if any of us were wounded. How we all laughed over it, he joining
+us. I knew we should have some hard fighting, but we all counted
+on carrying everything before us with a rush, and who is there who
+expects to be wounded? We are ready for it if it comes, but we all
+think that we are to be the exception. It is as well that it is so.
+
+We were under arms at 4.30 A.M. on the 22nd. The first party consisting
+of two companies of the 43rd Assam Light Infantry and twenty-eight
+Naga Hills Police, under Major Evans and Lieut. Barrett, conducted by
+Captain Williamson, who knew the country, were directed to proceed to
+the rear of Konoma and occupy the saddle connecting the spur on which
+it is built with the main road, so as to cut off the line of retreat.
+
+At 7.30 A.M., the remaining portion of the force marched off. We
+all went together to the Mozuma Hill, where Lieut. Raban, R.E.,
+was detached with part of a rocket battery, to take up a position on
+the hillside and open fire on Konoma, simultaneously with the guns. A
+small force was left in Suchema, to which, on my own responsibility, I
+added one hundred and ten Kuki irregulars, as I thought it dangerously
+small for a place containing all our stores and reserve ammunition. At
+the General's request, I had posted a force of two hundred men in a
+valley to intercept fugitives, and cut them off from Jotsuma.
+
+After leaving Lieut. Raban, we crossed the valley dividing Mozuma
+and Konoma, and when half-way between the hills, Lieut. Ridgeway (now
+Colonel Ridgeway, V.C.) was sent with a company of the 44th to skirmish
+up to the Konoma hill. The main body with the guns then gradually
+ascended to the Government Road. Just before reaching it, we found
+a headless Aryan corpse in a stream, it was probably that of a sepoy
+of the 43rd, who formed part of Mr. Damant's ill-fated expedition.
+
+After going for a short distance along the road, we found a
+place up which the guns could go, and a party of fifty men under
+Lieut. Henderson, 44th Assam Light Infantry, was sent ahead to skirmish
+up the hillside, the guns carried by my coolies following with the
+General and his Staff, including myself. As we ascended the hill,
+Colonel Nuttall, with the remainder of the 44th, exclusive of the
+gun escort, proceeded along the road, crossing the small valley
+that divides the Konoma hill from the ridge of the Basoma hill
+which we were ascending, a few hundred yards from where it joins
+the main valley, and halted at the foot. After incredible labour,
+we succeeded in getting the guns into position at about 1200 yards
+distance from the highest point of Konoma, and at once opened fire,
+while Lieut. Raban did the same with his rockets which, however, for
+the most part fell short over the heads of Lieut. Ridgeway's party,
+though once two struck the village. On being signalled, Lieut. Raban
+withdrew his rockets and joined us. Meanwhile, the guns had made little
+impression on the people, and none on the stone forts of Konoma, but
+the 44th were advancing gallantly to the attack up the steep ascent
+to the village, a brisk fire being kept up on both sides.
+
+At about 2.30, the position of the guns was changed, and they were
+advanced to within eight hundred yards of the works, here one of my
+gun coolies was wounded by a shot from the village. The change of
+position had little effect, and Lieutenant Henderson's party which
+had skirmished along the hillside, effectually prevented the enemy
+from evacuating his strong position.
+
+At this time we saw a body of men on the ridge above Konoma, and a
+gun and rocket fire was opened on them, but speedily stopped as the
+regimental call of the 43rd sounding in the distance, followed by a
+close observation with our glasses, led us to the conclusion that it
+was the party with Captain Williamson and not the enemy who occupied
+the point at which we had directed our fire. Subsequently it was
+discovered that the stockade there had been captured and occupied
+by the party of the 43rd. After firing a few shots from our new
+position, and imagining that the force under Colonel Nuttall was in
+full possession of the hill we unlimbered, and, crossing the small
+valley before mentioned, we followed Mr. Damant's path up the hill,
+entering the village by the gate where he met his death. As we neared
+the place where we had last seen Colonel Nuttall's party, ominous
+sights met our eyes, dead bodies here and there and men badly wounded,
+while sepoys left in charge of the latter told us that the Nagas were
+still holding out in the upper forts. After advancing a few paces
+further we had to pick our way over ground studded with pangees, [30]
+and covered with thorns and bamboo and cane entanglements, exposed
+to the fire of the enemy, and passing the bodies of several Nagas
+we ascended a kind of staircase, and after again passing under the
+Naga fire climbed up a perpendicular stone wall and found ourselves
+in a small tower, which, with the adjoining work, was held by a small
+party of the 44th. I asked Colonel Nuttall where all his men were, and
+he pointed to the handful around him and said, "These are all." The
+situation was indeed a desperate one, and I felt that without some
+immediate action our power in the Naga Hills for the moment trembled
+in the balance. The needed action was taken as the guns had now arrived
+under a heavy fire, and they opened on the upper forts at a distance of
+eighty to one hundred yards, Lieutenant Mansel and his three European
+bombardiers pointing them, fully exposed to the fire of the enemy. I
+strongly urged on the General the necessity of making an attempt to
+dislodge him before nightfall, and he was about to lead out a party
+to the attack when it was deemed more prudent to try the guns from
+another point first. After a series of rounds with such heavy charges
+that the guns were upset at every shot, the order for the assault was
+given, and we all rushed out in two parties, led by nine officers,
+viz., General Nation, Colonel Nuttall, Major Cock, Major Walker,
+Lieutenant Ridgeway, Lieutenant Raban, Lieutenant Boileau, Lieutenant
+Forbes, and myself, with all the men we could collect. The party I was
+with, which included the general, Colonel Nuttall, and Major Cock,
+attempted to scale the front face of the fort, the other the left,
+i.e., on our right. The right column of attack led by Ridgeway and
+Forbes advanced splendidly; I seem to hear to this day Ridgeway's
+shout of "Chulleao," i.e., "Come along," to his men as he dashed to
+the front, and I saw him mounting the parapet.
+
+The Nagas met us with a heavy fire and showers of spears and
+stones. One of the spears struck Forbes, and Ridgeway was badly wounded
+in the left shoulder by a shot fired at ten paces, and Nir Beer Sai,
+a gallant subadar, shot dead. My faithful orderly, Narain Singh, was
+also killed. Unfortunately we had no force to support the assaulting
+parties and the men began to retire. While this was doing on the
+right, our column, the left, was scaling an almost perpendicular wall
+in front but unsuccessfully, as those of us not killed were pushed
+back by showers of falling stones and earth, and as we alighted at
+a lower level the remnants of the right column who were retiring
+met us. I tried to rally them, but I was a stranger to them and it
+was no use. Lieutenant Raban was equally unsuccessful, the men had
+acted gallantly, but our party was too small, and as I had before
+predicted the fire was concentrated on the European officers. Major
+Cock walked back leisurely to get under cover, and just before he
+reached it turned round to take a parting shot. I saw him thus far,
+and immediately after heard that he had been shot. Seeing that our
+only chance of safety lay in a retreat, I shouted to Mansel to open
+an artillery fire over our heads which he did, this saved us. In
+another minute, the general, Colonel Nuttall, myself and five sepoys
+were the only men left. I suggested to the former that we had better
+go too and retire, which we did over the embers of a burning house.
+
+As I retired with the General we found Major Cock mortally wounded,
+laid under cover in a sheltered spot; a little farther on under a heavy
+fire we met Lieutenant Boileau bringing out a stretcher for him. As
+Cock was being carried in, a bearer was shot dead, and Dr. Campbell
+took his place and brought him into hospital.
+
+It was a strange situation, as in our retreat we were alternately
+exposed to a fire, and quite sheltered. Luckily the place selected
+for a hospital was safe, and there a sad sight met my eyes. In the
+short period that elapsed between the commencement of the assault
+and my return, the hospital had been filled. Young Forbes was on his
+back, pale as a sheet, but cheerful. Ridgeway flushed with the glow
+of battle on him. "Certamis gaudia," I said, "I hope you are not
+much hurt." "Only my shoulder smashed," he said. Colonel Nuttall
+was slightly wounded, making four out of nine Europeans. Besides
+these were men of the 44th of all ranks, some almost insensible,
+others in great pain, some composed, others despondent. Outside lay a
+heap of dead. Twenty-five per cent. of the native ranks had fallen,
+killed or wounded. Some of my gun coolies were among the latter,
+besides one or two killed.
+
+I remember a wounded Kuki who was supporting himself by leaning
+against a great vat of Naga beer prepared to refresh the defenders of
+the fortress, and by him lay a dead Naga. The Kuki had a dao (sword)
+in his hand, and every now and then he fortified himself with a deep
+draught of the grateful fluid, and thus strengthened made a savage
+cut at the body of his foe.
+
+We had captured all but the highest forts, and a renewed attack with
+our small numbers was out of the question, as night was closing in,
+and we were very anxious as to the safety of our detached parties
+under Evans, Macgregor, and Henderson. [31]
+
+It was determined to remain where we were for the night, and Lieutenant
+Raban represented to the General the necessity of fortifying our
+position. This duty he and Mansel and I undertook, I bringing my Kuki
+coolies to the work, which we accomplished by 7 P.M.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+    Konoma evacuated--Journey to Suchema for provisions and ammunition,
+    and return--We march to Suchema with General--Visit Manipur--Very
+    ill--Meet Sir Steuart Bayley in Cachar--His visit to Manipur--Grand
+    reception--Star of India--Chussad attack on Chingsow--March to
+    Kohima and back--Reflections on Maharajah's services--Naga Hills
+    campaign overshadowed by Afghan War.
+
+
+General Nation had intended to capture Konoma and return to Suchema
+at once, but the stout resistance offered by the Nagas upset all
+calculations, and we were thus stranded without warm clothing or
+provisions on a bleak spot, 5000 or 6000 feet above the sea. I sent
+off some of my Naga emissaries, and induced the neutral men of Mozuma
+to go to Suchema and bring the bedding of the wounded men and some food
+which was done. With difficulty we got enough water to drink, but there
+was none for washing, and when at last we sat down on the ground to
+eat our frugal meal, the doctors had to eat with hands covered with
+blood, indeed, none of our hands were very presentable. At last, to
+our great relief, our detached parties returned one by one. Lieutenant
+(now Colonel) C. R. Macgregor, D.S.O., a most gallant and capable
+officer, had been out all day with only fifteen men, and inflicted
+some injury on the Nagas. He was Quartermaster-General of the force,
+and did good service throughout. The accession of numbers was a great
+relief, as we now had the means of renewing the attack next day, but
+ammunition and supplies were required, and Williamson and I volunteered
+to go to Suchema for them next day. The night was very cold, but we
+managed to sleep all huddled up together, the dead lying all round us.
+
+Early next morning, Williamson and I started with all our coolies and
+an escort of fifty men. We saw no signs of the enemy, but came across
+several men of the 43rd who had strayed away from their detachments
+in the dark and hidden in the jungles. At Suchema we found all right,
+but before we got there, we saw our flag flying over Konoma, showing,
+as I had expected, that it had been evacuated during the night. This
+event immediately made our neutral friends of Mozuma, our allies, and
+they gave us hearty assistance, and we took back an ample supply of
+provisions. The Mozuma people told us that the Konoma men had never
+contemplated the possibility of being driven out, and that they had
+stored up 2000 maunds of rice which had fallen into our hands.
+
+The enemy had retired into some fortified stockades called Chukka on
+the main range to their rear, a most difficult position to attack. I
+offered the General to carry the guns into position for him if he
+cared to assault them, but our loss, especially in officers, had been
+so great that he declined, and probably he was right, as the risk
+was very great if the enemy stood his ground, so the General decided
+to await reinforcements. All the same it was to be regretted that we
+were unable to deliver two or three blows in rapid succession.
+
+We left a party at Konoma and marched to Suchema with the wounded,
+Ridgeway, with great courage, marching all the way on foot, rather
+than endure the shaking of an improvised litter. On the 27th, I
+joined a force, with which we attacked and destroyed the unfriendly
+portion of Jotsuma, a large and powerful village, and on the 29th,
+as there was nothing else to do, made a rapid journey to Manipur with
+Lieutenant Raban, that he might survey the road as I wanted the trace
+for a cart road cut. We returned on December 4th.
+
+On December 6th, Williamson and I started for Golaghat, to meet
+Sir Steuart Bayley. At Samagudting I had a perfect ovation, all
+the village turning out to see me, and greeting me warmly as an old
+acquaintance. Alas! many were suffering from a disease we called Naga
+sores, and several had died. The once lovely place looked desolate and
+miserable, almost all the fine trees had been ruthlessly cut down by
+one of my successors, in a panic, lest they should afford cover for
+hostile Nagas. The place looked so sad that I could not bear to stay
+there as I had intended, and left again almost directly. We reached
+Golaghat on December 9th, and stayed with the Chief Commissioner and
+started again on the 12th, and rode fifty-five miles into Dimapur, but
+I was not at all well, indeed had been much the reverse for several
+days, bad food and hard work having upset me. We reached Suchema on
+the 14th.
+
+Overtures for submission were made by some of the hostile villages,
+but I said that an unconditional surrender of all fire-arms must
+precede any negotiations. Meanwhile, I grew daily worse, and the
+doctors told me that I must go to Manipur for change and quiet,
+which, as there was nothing to be done just then, I did, leaving
+Captain Williamson in charge of the Political Department.
+
+I reached Manipur on December 22nd, and a day or two's rest did me so
+much good that I left again on the 27th, and rode to Mythephum, sixty
+miles, but was taken ill on the road, and suffered most dreadful pain
+for the last twenty miles, arriving completely prostrated. The next
+day, being worse, I sent a message to Manipur, asking for the native
+doctor and a litter to be sent to meet me, while I got back as far as
+Mayang Khang on my pony, though hardly able to sit upright. I halted
+here for the night, but had no sleep, and in the morning started in a
+rough litter, but the shaking increased the pain, so that I again tried
+riding till I reached Kong-nang-pokhee, twenty miles from Manipur,
+where, to my intense relief, I found my doolai and our native doctor,
+Lachman Parshad. I reached Manipur at 11 P.M.
+
+Next day, December 30th, I was no better, and as the doctor was very
+anxious, not understanding my case, which was acute inflammation,
+my wife wrote to Dr. O'Brien of the 44th, asking him to come and
+see me. I was laid up till January 17th, and only narrowly escaped
+with life, my suffering being aggravated by a deficiency of medicine
+in our hospital, and a week's delay in getting it from Cachar. One
+day I got out of bed to see Thangal Major on very important business
+connected with Konoma, of which some of the inhabitants had tried to
+open an intrigue with Manipur. Dr. O'Brien arrived about the 13th,
+and left on the 18th, and I was preparing to follow in a few days,
+when complications on the Lushai frontier detained me, and then as the
+Chief Commissioner was about to come up en route to the Naga Hills,
+to present the Maharajah with the order of the Star of India in
+recognition of his services, I waited till I could march up with him.
+
+On January 30th, I heard that the Baladhun tea factory in Cachar
+had been attacked, and a European and several coolies killed by
+the Merema clan of Konoma. Knowing that Cachar was badly off for
+troops, I asked the Durbar to send two hundred men to the frontier,
+close to the tea factory, to aid the Cachar authorities, and this
+was done. On February 6th, I started for Cachar to meet the Chief
+Commissioner, reaching that place on the 7th, and marched back with
+him, arriving at Manipur on February 20th, where he was received with
+every demonstration of respect, the Maharajah turning out with all
+his court to meet him at the usual place, and escorting him to the
+spot where the road turned off to the Residency.
+
+The Chief Commissioner's visit gave the greatest satisfaction to
+every one in Manipur. He stayed five days, during which he had several
+interviews with the Maharajah, and held a grand Durbar, at which he
+invested him with the star and badge of a K.C.S.I. He also attended a
+review held by the Rajah, besides seeing all the sights of the place,
+including a game of polo by picked players. In fact the visit was a
+thorough success, and the Manipuris often spoke of it with pleasure
+years afterwards.
+
+Just before we started for the Naga Hills, I received the news of an
+attack by the Chussad Kukis on the Tankhool village of Chingsow, to
+the north-east of Manipur, forty-five people were said to have been
+killed or carried off; and the excitement was all the greater from
+the belief entertained that the attack had been instigated by the
+Burmese. I determined, after consultation with Sir Steuart Bayley,
+to proceed to the spot myself, and investigate the whole affair;
+and it was, therefore, decided that, after escorting him to Kohima,
+I should return to Manipur and take up the case. We marched to Kohima,
+which we reached on March 1st, and on the 2nd, I returned to Mao,
+en route to Manipur, where I arrived on March 5th.
+
+Before leaving the subject of the Naga Hills, I ought to say, that,
+it is difficult to over-estimate our obligation to the Maharajah,
+for his loyal conduct during the insurrection and subsequent
+troubles. According to his own belief, we had deprived him of
+territory belonging to him, and which he had been allowed to claim as
+his own. The Nagas asked him to help them, and promised to become his
+feudatories, if only he would not act against them. The temptation must
+have been strong, to at least serve us as we deserved, by leaving us
+in the lurch to get out of the mess, as best as we could. Instead of
+this, Chandra Kirtee Singh loyally and cheerfully placed his resources
+at our disposal, and certainly by enabling me to march to its relief,
+prevented the fall of Kohima, and the disastrous results which would
+have inevitably followed. It is grievous to think that his son, the
+then Jubraj Soor Chandra Singh, who served us so well, was allowed to
+die in exile, and that Thangal Major died on the scaffold: while many
+others who accompanied the expedition, were transported as criminals,
+across the dreaded "black water" to the Andamans.
+
+It was the misfortune of those engaged in the Naga Hills expedition,
+that they were overshadowed, and their gallant deeds almost ignored, by
+the Afghan war then in progress. Some of the English papers imagined
+that the operations in the Naga Hills were included in it, and the
+Government of India, which has only eyes for the North-West Frontier,
+showed little desire to recognise the hard work, and good service
+rendered on its eastern border, amidst difficulties far greater than
+those which beset our troops in Afghanistan. The force engaged, hoped
+that the capture of Konoma, which was achieved after such hard fighting
+and at so great a loss, would have been at least recognised by some
+special decoration, but this hope was disappointed, apparently for
+no other reason, than that the troops engaged, fought in the east,
+and not in the west of India. Kaye, the historian, once said that,
+"the countries to the east of the Bay of Bengal, were the grave
+of fame." Well did the Naga Hills campaign, prove the truth of his
+words. A bronze star was the reward of a bloodless march from Kabul
+to Kandahar, but not even a clasp could be spared to commemorate
+the capture of Konoma, and those who never saw a shot fired, shared
+the medal awarded equally with those who fought and bled in that
+bloody fight.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+    Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad outrage--Interesting
+    country--Rhododendrons--Splendid forest--Chingsow and the
+    murder--Chattik--March back across the hills.
+
+
+I had not fully recovered my strength after my illness, and besides
+there was much to do, so I did not start for Chingsow till the 11th,
+when I marched to Lairen, twenty-five miles distant. Near a place
+called Susa Kameng, where the hills approach each other very closely,
+from either side of the valley, a rampart connects them. It was built
+in former days as a barrier against the Tankhools, when they were
+the scourge of the neighbourhood.
+
+After leaving Susa Kameng, the valley narrowed for some miles, and
+then we crossed a ridge about 1000 feet above it, and finally descended
+into a charming little upland valley, which, but for the Kukis, those
+terrible enemies of trees and animal life, would be the cherished home
+of wild elephants. After crossing this, we again made a slight descent,
+and found ourselves close to the camp on a lovely stream. There I
+found Bularam Singh, who was to be minister in attendance on me during
+my march, that part of the country being under his jurisdiction. The
+next day we went on to Noong-suong-kong over a most lovely country,
+often 5000 feet above the sea, and with hill villages in the most
+romantic situation; and--remarkable sign of the peace produced by
+the rule of Manipur--we met large numbers of unarmed wayfarers. This
+day we also saw terrace cultivation, in which the Tankhools excel,
+and rhododendrons in full flower, a splendid sight. The next day,
+after another most interesting march, we halted in a pretty upland
+valley, 5100 feet above the sea; the valley was long, and a stream
+meandered through it, the banks being clothed with willows and wild
+pear trees, covered with blossoms. The hillsides were well-wooded,
+the trees being chiefly pines with rhododendrons here and there.
+
+On March 14th, we descended the Kongou-Chow-Ching, and in a village I
+saw for the first time shingle roofs. We passed the last fir tree at
+5800 feet, and reached the watershed at 7300 feet. At the top of the
+pass in a slightly sheltered position, was a solitary rhododendron. The
+cold was so great that, though walking, I was glad to put on a thick
+great-coat; the winds were exceedingly piercing. Some of the hills
+round were denuded of trees, and the hill people said that it was
+the severity of the winds that prevented their growth. The view from
+the highest point was splendid, on all sides a magnificent array of
+hills and valleys. Near to us were some of the most luxuriant forests I
+have ever seen, the trees of large size, and many of them with gnarled
+trunks, recalling the giants of an English park. Under some of these
+trees was a greensward where it would have been delightful to encamp,
+had time allowed, but the difficulty of obtaining water limits one's
+halting place in the hills. Everywhere on the western face of the hills
+pines seemed to stop at 5800 feet; but on the east they rose to 9400!
+
+Four villages, in the Tankhool country, apparently monopolised the bulk
+of the cloth manufactures, and different tribal patterns were made to
+suit the purchaser. Some of these cloths are very handsome and strong,
+and calculated to wear for a long time. But the superior energy of the
+Manipuris in cloth weaving, has greatly injured the trade in the hill
+villages; in the same way that Manchester and Paisley have injured the
+weaving trade in most of India. The Manipuris supply a fair pattern
+of the different tribal cloths at a lower price, and thus manage to
+undersell those of native manufacture, but the quality is not nearly
+so good as in the original. The prices in the hills are decidedly
+high. Every village has its blacksmith, but some devote themselves
+more especially to ironwork.
+
+We reached Chingsow on March 15th, after a march of twelve miles
+that morning, chiefly made up of ascents and descents, some being so
+steep that it was with difficulty that we got along. Finally, after
+a direct ascent of 4980 feet, followed by a descent of 3600 feet,
+we reached our encamping ground below the village which towered
+above us. The next day I investigated the case, and found that, as
+reported, twenty males and twenty-five females had been murdered. I
+saw the fresh graves and dug up one as evidence, the bodies contained
+in it were those of a mother and child, and presented a frightful
+spectacle with half of the heads cut off, including the scalp, and
+both in an advanced state of decomposition. It appeared that a demand
+has been made by Tonghoo, the Chussad Chief, that the Chingsow Nagas
+should submit to him and pay tribute, but they, of course, refused
+as subjects of Manipur. They heard of nothing more till they were
+attacked on the morning of the fatal day. The people had just begun
+to stir, and some had lighted their fires, when suddenly they heard
+the fire of musketry at the entrance of the village. They ran out
+of their houses, and the Chussads fell upon them, and the massacre
+commenced. The assailants were about fifty in number, and the people
+in their terror were driven in all directions, and slaughtered,
+some being shot and others being cut down by daos.
+
+While this was going on, some of the men assembled with spears and
+advanced on the Chussads, who then retreated firing the village,
+and carrying off all the pigs, spears and iron hoes they could lay
+hands on. Five Nagas of Chattik came with the Chussads and were
+recognised. The village of Chingsow was most strongly situated, even
+more so than Konoma, indeed, the same might be said of many villages
+in that part of the country, and is entered by long winding paths
+cut through the rock, by which only one man at a time could pass,
+so that well defended it would be difficult to take. But the fact
+was that Manipur having put a stop to blood feuds among its subjects,
+had rather placed them at a disadvantage, as they were not quite as
+well prepared for an attack as formerly.
+
+After leaving Chingsow, we marched through a pretty country, part of
+our way lying along a high ridge with a precipice on one side, and a
+deep ravine on the other, and we finally halted in a stream far below
+our last camp. Every march was a succession of steep ascents and then
+equally steep descents into narrow valleys. It was most exasperating
+sometimes to see how needlessly an ascent was made over a high ridge,
+when a path of no greater length could have been made round it.
+
+On the 17th, I encamped beside a river where I was visited by many
+Tankhools, including children, who crowded round me fearlessly. The
+people were a fine race, but almost inconceivably dirty, some of them
+seemed grimed with the dirt of years. There were plenty of fine pieces
+of terrace cultivation. It was very curious to find that among the
+Tankhools there seemed to be a universal belief that they originally
+sprung from the "Mahawullee," or sacred grove in Manipur.
+
+On March 18th, we reached Chattik, a fine village on a ridge from
+which we had a splendid view, including the Chussad villages. As
+I had done all I had come for, and wished to see a new country,
+I determined to march back straight to Manipur across the hills. It
+was not the beaten track which lay by Kongal Tannah, and no one in
+my camp knew it, but I felt sure it could be found, and old Bularam
+Singh cheerfully agreed. We started on the 19th, and after passing
+a village that had been plundered by the Chussads, we halted after a
+sixteen-mile march, during which I was badly hurt by a bamboo which
+pierced my leg. On the march we passed some terrible-looking pits,
+12 feet deep, and about 3 or 3-1/2 feet wide with sharp stakes at the
+bottom. They are meant to catch enemies on the war path, or deer,
+and are placed in the centre of the roads and covered lightly. God
+help the poor man or animal who is impaled in these horrible pits
+and dies in agony, for no one else will.
+
+On the 20th, we halted at Pong, after an interesting but tiring march,
+during which we crossed the summit of a high range at 7100 feet,
+covered with forest, and small and very solid bamboos. The descent
+was through a noble pine forest with trees that must have been two
+hundred feet high. It rained heavily, and when we halted I should
+have had a miserable night of it but for the care of the Manipuris,
+who built me a comfortable hut, and went away smiling and cheerful
+to cook their food, though they looked half drowned. Never did I see
+men work better under difficulties. Owing to them I had as nice a
+resting-place as a man on the march could want, and an hour after I
+had an excellent dinner.
+
+We started early next morning, and made a gradual ascent till we
+reached Hoondoong, a Tankhool village 5200 feet above the sea. After
+that our road lay through a splendid fir forest, with here and there
+an avenue of oaks, but from time to time we came across large tracts
+of forest that had been laid low and burned. At Hoondoong I saw some
+curious graves, high mounds shaped like a large H.
+
+They were outside the village. There were also more and better-looking
+women and children than are to be seen in most Tankhool villages. The
+men of the Tankhool race are, in physique, quite equal to the Angamis.
+
+In the main street of Hoondoong, there were two rows of dead trees
+about twenty feet high, planted in front of the houses, and orchids
+were growing on them. The people seemed happy and contented under the
+rule of Manipur, and their houses were large and commodious structures.
+
+We reached Eethum Tannah in the valley of Manipur after a terrible
+descent, rendered all the more difficult by heavy rain, which made
+the narrow path so slippery as to be almost impassable. During the
+whole of my long march through a wild country covered with forest
+I had, with the exception of the Hoolook monkey (Hylohete) seen no
+wild animals, scarcely a bird!
+
+I reached Manipur on March 22nd, having greatly enjoyed my tour in
+the hills, and had hardly arrived when Thangal Major came to see me
+and talk about the Chussad business. Soon after I sent to Tonghoo,
+the Chussad chief, to demand his submission. He did not come himself,
+but sent his brother Yankapo. The Manipuris thought this a grand
+opportunity to secure hostages, and begged me to allow the arrest
+of him and his followers. I severely rebuked them for making such a
+treacherous proposal.
+
+I had several interviews with the young chief and his followers who
+spoke Manipuri fluently, and admitted that they were subjects of
+the Maharajah. This visit eventually led to a better understanding
+with the Chussads, and to the submission of Tonghoo himself, who
+subsequently became a peaceable subject. For the present, however,
+I had to exact reparation for the attack on Chingsow, and for some
+months the affair cost me much anxiety.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+    Saving a criminal from execution--Konoma men visit me--A terrible
+    earthquake--Destruction wrought in the capital--Illness of the
+    Maharajah--Question as to the succession--Arrival of the Queen's
+    warrant--Reception by Maharajah--The Burmese question.
+
+
+About this time I heard one morning that a man had been convicted
+in concert with a woman of committing a grave offence, and that the
+woman had, according to custom, been sentenced to be exposed in every
+bazaar in the country, in the way already described. The man had
+been sentenced to death, and ordered to Shoogoonoo for execution. As
+the offence was not one which our courts would punish with death, I
+sent a friendly remonstrance to the Maharajah, and requested that he
+might be produced before me, that I might satisfy myself that he was
+uninjured. The Maharajah at once consented, and in a few days the man
+was brought before me safe and sound, and after having been exposed as
+a criminal in several bazaars, he was sentenced with my approval to
+a fitting term of imprisonment. I also asked the minister in future,
+to let me know for certain when a sentence of death was passed, that I
+might advise them, without appearing to the outer world to interfere,
+in case they inadvertently condemned a man to capital punishment,
+for a crime which our laws would not approve of being visited so
+severely. Realising that my object was to save them from discredit,
+they at once consented, and I hinted that I would never sanction the
+penalty of death for cow-killing.
+
+As I have stated, it had been almost always the custom to refer death
+sentences to me. Often and often when I made a remonstrance to the
+ministers about any contemplated action of which I disapproved, I was
+told that I misapprehended the state of things, and that nothing of
+the kind was intended. Of course, I let them down easily, and appeared
+satisfied with their assurances. However, neither party was deceived,
+they accepted my strong hint in a friendly spirit, and knew well that
+I took their denial as a mere matter of form. The result was what I
+cared for, and it was generally achieved without friction.
+
+One of the most unpleasant parts of my duty was the perpetual necessity
+of saying "No" to the ministers. My great object was to be continually
+building up our prestige. Colonel McCulloch had said to me, "Never
+make any concession to the Manipuris without an equivalent," and it is
+inconceivable how many times in our daily intercourse I had to refuse
+little apparently insignificant, but really insidious requests. The
+struggle on behalf of native British subjects was long kept up, but
+in the end I gained my point, and their rights and privileges were
+fully recognised.
+
+Early in June, some men of the Merema clan of Konoma who were
+fugitives in a very wild part of the hills of Manipur bordering
+on the Naga Hills, came to me, making a piteous appeal for mercy,
+saying they would have nothing to do with the Naga Hills officials,
+but came to me as their old friend and master in the days when I was at
+Samagudting. As they came in trusting to my honour, I would not have
+them arrested, but sent them away, telling them that nothing but good
+and loyal conduct on their part could win my esteem, and that they
+must make their submission and deliver up Mr. Damant's murderers to
+the Political Officer in the Naga Hills, before I consented to deal
+with them. I also gave orders to the Manipuri troops on the frontier,
+to act with the utmost vigour against all Konoma men found within
+the territory of Manipur.
+
+Soon after some Lushais visited me, and we settled up a long-standing
+dispute between them and Manipur.
+
+The Konoma men continued to give much trouble, and to keep some check
+on them, I refused at last to allow any to enter Manipur, except by
+the Mao Tannah, and furnished with a pass from the Political Officer,
+Colonel Michell. I also arrested one of the supposed murderers,
+but the evidence against him was not considered quite satisfactory.
+
+On the morning of June 30th, at 4.45, when we were at Kang-joop-kool
+there was a violent earthquake, the oscillations continuing with great
+force from north to south, and apparently in a less degree from east to
+west for some minutes. Plaster was shaken from the walls, and crockery
+and bottles thrown down, and furniture upset. Locked doors were flung
+open and the whole house, built of wood and bamboo, shaken as by a
+giant hand. Two Naga girls sleeping in my children's room next to the
+one my wife and I occupied, sprang up and ran outside, my two boys,
+not realising what was up, seemed to think it a good joke. We all got
+up and hurried on our things to be ready for an emergency, but I soon
+saw that all present danger was over. At 8.50 A.M., there was another
+sharp shock, and again about 2 P.M., besides several slighter ones.
+
+In the valley, and especially at the capital, the shocks were of the
+utmost violence and the earthquake said to be the worst known with the
+exception of the terrible one of January 1869. Many houses built of
+wood and bamboo were levelled with the ground, the ruins at Langthabal
+greatly injured, and a peepul tree growing over a picturesque old
+temple torn off. The old Residency was greatly injured, part being
+thrown down, and the fireplace and chimney shaken into fragments,
+but still, strange to say, standing. Some houses in the Residency
+compound were rendered useless. The great brick bridge on the Cachar
+road was cracked and much damage done. The earth opened in several
+places. The new Residency, which was nearly finished, and was built
+in the old English half-timbered style, was intact.
+
+During the next few days several more shocks occurred, causing much
+alarm among the people, who predicted something still worse. The
+earthquake was followed by the severest outbreak of cholera that I had
+witnessed since a dreadful epidemic in Assam in 1860. There were many
+deaths in the palace, and public business was at a standstill. I was
+unable to lay any question before the Durbar, as half the officials
+were performing the funeral ceremonies of relations. The great bazaar
+was closed at sunset, and even then many of the sellers went home
+to find their children dead or dying. Everywhere on the banks of
+the rivers, and streams, people might be seen performing the funeral
+obsequies of relations and lamenting the dead. Amid this trouble, the
+attitude of all classes was such as to excite admiration, there were no
+cases of sick being deserted and every one appeared calm and collected.
+
+Later on, the cholera attacked my village of Kang-joop-kool, and ten
+per cent. of the population died.
+
+Early in the autumn, the Maharajah was taken ill with an abscess
+behind the ear, and great apprehensions were entertained for his
+life. The whole capital was for weeks in a state of alarm, fearing a
+struggle for the throne in case of his death. The four eldest sons,
+and also some members of the family of the late Rajah Nur Singh,
+had their followers armed so as to be ready to assert their several
+claims immediately the Maharajah died, the former were constantly in
+attendance on their father night and day. The Maharajah was himself
+very anxious about the conduct of his younger sons. As suffocation
+might any moment have terminated the invalid's life, I made all
+necessary plans, with a view to acting promptly, if required, and,
+in conjunction with Thangal Major, arranged so as to secure the
+guns and bring them over to the Residency the moment that he died. I
+also desired the Jubraj (heir apparent) to come over to me at once,
+in the event of the death of his father, that I might instantly
+proclaim him and give him my support. I had a most grateful message
+from the Maharajah in reply, as also from the Jubraj, who promised
+to abide entirely by my instructions. However, the abscess burst,
+and the Maharajah recovered, and though a shot imprudently fired
+one evening led to a panic when the bazaar was deserted, things soon
+settled down again.
+
+As soon as the Maharajah was again able to transact business, he
+begged me to write to the Government of India and request that the
+Jubraj should be acknowledged by them as his successor. I did so, at
+the same time strongly urging that the guarantee should be extended to
+the Jubraj's children, so as to preclude the possibility of a disputed
+succession on his death. The Jubraj earnestly supported this request,
+but the Maharajah preferred adhering to the old Manipuri custom,
+which really seemed made to encourage strife. If, for instance, a man
+had ten sons, they all succeeded one after the other, passing over
+the children of the elder ones, but when the last one died, then his
+children succeeded as children of the last Rajah, to the exclusion of
+all the elder brothers' children. All the same, if these could make
+good their claim by force of arms, they were cheerfully accepted by
+the people who were ready to take any scion of Royalty.
+
+The consequence had always been in former days that to prevent
+troublesome claims, a man, on ascending the throne, immediately made
+every effort to murder all possible competitors. It is obvious that
+such a cumbersome system was undesirable, and I held that having once
+interfered we ought to set things on a proper and sensible basis, and
+that there was no middle course between this and leaving the people to
+themselves. Thangal Major, who always greatly dreaded the violent and
+unscrupulous disposition of Kotwal Koireng (afterwards Senaputtee),
+agreed with me. The Maharajah, however, with a father's tenderness
+for his sons, would not advocate my proposal, but still, would have
+gladly accepted it. The Government of India judged differently,
+and only sanctioned my proposal so far as to allow me to say that
+they would guarantee the Jubraj's succession, and maintain him on
+his throne. This decision gave great satisfaction.
+
+This year was unpleasantly distinguished by a great deficiency of rain
+in the valley, and a corresponding superfluity, though at irregular
+intervals, in the hills. For a long time there were apprehensions
+of scarcity, while in the hills the rainfall was so heavy that the
+Laimetak bridge was washed away and the river rose six feet above its
+banks. On one side, a large portion of its pebbly bed was hollowed
+out, and much widened, and 80 feet width of solid boulders carried
+away. The Eerung rose about 40 feet, and portions of the hill road
+were cut away, but the want of steady rain was felt.
+
+By the end of September, the Maharajah was able to transact business,
+though, as he was not well enough to visit me, I visited him, that
+I might congratulate him on his recovery, and present him with Her
+Majesty's warrant, appointing him a Knight Commander of the Star of
+India. The papers bearing the Queen's signature were received with a
+salute of thirty-one guns, and the Maharajah rose to take it from my
+hand, and at once placed it on his forehead, making an obeisance. I
+then made a speech to all assembled, expressing my satisfaction at
+the Maharajah's recovery, and the gratification it gave me to be the
+means of conveying the warrant to him.
+
+Nothing of great importance now occurred, but I was constantly
+occupied by the troubled state of the eastern frontier of Manipur
+where Sumjok (Thoungdoot) continued to intrigue with the Chussad and
+Choomyang Kukis, who were a ceaseless trouble to the Tankhool Nagas,
+about Chattik. These intrigues were conducted with a view to gaining
+over the latter as subjects. The chief difficulty of Manipur was,
+that the boundary had never been properly defined, so neither party
+had a good case against the other. Manipur was in possession, but
+otherwise everything was unsatisfactory, our failure to settle the
+Kongal case having encouraged the Burmese authorities to resistance.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+    March to Mao and improvement of the road--Lieutenant
+    Raban--Constant troubles with Burmah--Visit to Mr. Elliott
+    at Kohima--A tiger hunt made easy--A perilous adventure--Rose
+    bushes--Brutal conduct of Prince Koireng--We leave Manipur for
+    England.
+
+
+In November, I marched to Mao on the Naga Hills frontier, and arranged
+for the improvement of some of the halting places on the way. I also
+asked Sir Steuart Bayley, the Chief Commissioner, to allow Lieutenant
+Raban, R.E., to visit Manipur, with a view to laying out the line
+of a cart road from the Manipur valley to Mao. This arrangement he
+sanctioned, and Lieutenant Raban arrived in Manipur on December 30th,
+1880. The line from Sengmai was bad throughout, and an exceedingly
+difficult one in many places. Thangal Major accompanied us, and
+I had induced the Maharajah to open out a narrow road, on being
+supplied with the necessary tools. We carefully examined the whole
+of the road in detail, and, after deciding on the line to adopt,
+cut the trace. It was a matter requiring great skill and patience,
+both of which Lieutenant Raban had. He was very ably seconded by the
+Manipuris, whose keen intelligence made them good auxiliaries. Often
+the line had to be cut along the face of a cliff, but fortunately the
+rock was soft, and the work was accomplished without accident. The
+way we turned the head of the Mao river, the descent to and ascent
+from which I had so often, so painfully accomplished, was a great
+success, and did not materially increase the distance, as we saved
+it by striking the main path at different points. [32]
+
+In the village of Mukhel near which we passed, we saw a pear tree
+three or four hundred years old, and greatly venerated by the
+villagers. In the same village I saw a Naga cut another man's hair
+with a dao (sword). The operation was performed most dexterously
+and neatly, by holding the dao under the hair, and then slightly
+tapping the latter with a small piece of wood. The result was that
+the hair-cutting was as neatly accomplished as it could have been
+by the best London hair-dresser. I asked a fine young Naga why all
+his tribe wore a single long tuft of hair at the back? He at once
+replied, "To make the girls admire me," and added that without it,
+he should be laughed at. This is the only explanation I ever had
+of the curious fact that most of the Naga tribes wear a long tuft
+behind, like Hindoos. By the third week in January we had laid out
+the line of road. Thangal Major approved of most of it, but said,
+regarding the piece between Sengmai and Kaithemahee, "I will cut it
+as I promised, but who will ever use it?" I differed from him, as
+nothing could exceed the tortuous and hilly nature of the old road,
+running as it did across one succession of spurs and deep ravines,
+one of the most heart-breaking paths I ever went along. Within a
+month of its completion the old path was entirely deserted.
+
+My health was beginning to break down entirely. I had been very ill
+during and immediately after the Naga Hills Expedition, and during
+the last march I was laid up one or two days. My wife had long been
+a sufferer, but she did not like to leave me, and I did not like
+to leave Manipur while the frontier was disturbed and the Kongal
+case unsettled. However, now I felt that we both must have change,
+and our children also were of an age to go home.
+
+On my return from looking after the road, fresh complications awaited
+me. News came from Chattik of the Sumjok (Thoungdoot) authorities
+having again caused dissension and joined with another village in
+firing on a Manipuri piquet. This had led to reprisals on the part
+of the Manipuris, who attacked and drove out the enemy. All this was
+done without our relations with Sumjok being anything but strained,
+the act of hostility being unauthorised. The ill-defined nature of
+the frontier was such, that neither party could be said to be in the
+right or wrong. The Kuki, Chussad, and other frontier villages took
+advantage of the state of things to plunder the Tankhools, and the
+latter in their turn appealed to Manipur.
+
+I felt that, until something was done to set things on a right
+footing, I could not leave. Sir Steuart Bayley was about this time
+appointed to Hyderabad, which added to my difficulties, as he was
+intimately acquainted with the situation, and of course a change in
+the administration necessarily means delay. The Burmese authorities,
+knowing what I now do, were always, as I then believed, favourably
+inclined to us; the ill-feeling was entirely on the part of Sumjok,
+whose Tsawbwa had influence at Mandalay, and was able to prevent
+justice being done in the case in which he was so discreditably
+concerned. He also took advantage of this influence to carry on the
+guerilla warfare he did through the Chussads, who disliked Manipur,
+on account of some treacherous behaviour on her part in former years.
+
+As the spring advanced, of course the danger of hostilities became
+less. Caesar said, "Omnia bella hieme requiescunt." The reverse holds
+good in India, and on the eastern frontier the fiercest tribes keep
+quiet in the rainy season. [33]
+
+In March, I heard that Mr. (now Sir Charles) Elliott, the new Chief
+Commissioner, was about to visit Kohima, where he wished to meet
+me, and I set off on my way there, arriving on the 19th, being
+well received all along the road by the people of the different
+villages. I had a long talk with the Chief Commissioner about the
+affairs of Manipur, and the necessity for a survey and delimitation of
+the boundary between it and Burmah during the ensuing cold weather,
+and then returned. The new road had been opened out to such a width,
+except here and there--I was able to ride the whole distance.
+
+The weather was lovely, and the rhododendrons near Mao, and the wild
+pears, azaleas, and many other flowering trees along my route, made
+the long journey a most pleasant one. Let me say here, while on the
+subject of the road, that, notwithstanding all the criticisms passed
+on it and predictions of its uselessness, it proved of immense,
+nay, incalculable value during the Burmese War of 1885-86, and the
+sad troubles of 1891. It was throughout of an easy gradient, never
+exceeding one in twenty, and, had a bullock train been established,
+might have been used from an early date for conveying produce from
+Manipur to the stations of Kohima.
+
+This was my last visit to Kohima, a place fraught with so deep an
+interest to me, and so many pleasant and painful associations. I shall
+always regret that the site chosen by myself and Major Williamson
+was not adopted for the new cantonment, which, with the larger
+space available, would have admitted of a greater development than
+is possible under present circumstances. Still the place will always
+possess an undying interest for me, filled as it is with the memory
+of events bearing on my work from the early triumphs of old Ghumbeer
+Singh, and my predecessor, Lieut. Gordon, to the day when I marched in
+at the head of the relieving party, and heard the fair-haired English
+child told by her mother that at last she could have water to drink!
+
+On my return to Manipur, I intended to have started for England,
+and our passages were taken by a steamer leaving in April. But the
+unsettled state of the Burmese frontier forced me to stay till the
+rains had set in in the hills. During this spring we had a visitor,
+Mr. Hume, C.B., the well-known ornithologist, who spent three months
+in studying the birds of Manipur, with the result, I believe, that
+very few new species were found.
+
+In April, we had a little excitement to vary the monotony of life,
+though to me my work was of such never-ending interest, that I needed
+nothing of the kind. On April 13th, the Maharajah sent to tell me
+that a tiger had been surrounded, and asked me to go out and help
+to shoot it. The place was about fourteen miles from the capital,
+and we started early and rode off to a spot a few miles from Thobal.
+
+I took my sister and the two boys with me, my wife staying with
+the baby. The tiger had, according to Manipuri custom, been first
+enclosed by a long net, about eight feet high, and outside this a
+bamboo palisading had been erected, on which the platforms were built
+for the spectators. The space enclosed was eighty to a hundred yards
+in diameter, and contained grass and scrub jungle, and a log of wood
+tied to strong ropes was arranged, so that it might be dragged up and
+down to drive the tiger out of the covert. As soon as we were all in
+our places this rope was vigorously pulled, with the result that a
+tigress, followed by two cubs, sprang out with a loud roar. The Jubraj
+was present, and took command of the proceedings, courteously asking
+me from time to time what I wished done. After the first charge, the
+tiger was not very lively, and this being the case, several Manipuris,
+contrary to orders, jumped down into the arena with long and heavy
+spears in the right hand, and a small forked stick in the left. With
+the latter they held up a portion of the net, which had been allowed
+to fall on the ground to shield their faces, if necessary, and with
+the right hand poised the spear, shouting to irritate the tiger,
+whom others in the stockade tried to drive out by throwing stones.
+
+Roused by this, the infuriated brute charged in earnest at one of the
+men on foot, the latter awaited her with the utmost coolness, and, as
+she approached, struck her with the spear; the tiger, however, made
+good her charge, but the net stopped her, and she rolled over, and
+when released, she retreated. This was repeated, both by the tigress
+and the cubs, and after a shot or two, the men on foot attacked them
+with spears and finished them off.
+
+The whole scene was a very exciting one and a very fine display of
+courage and coolness on the part of the Manipuris.
+
+We did not reach home till 10 P.M., but the weather was splendid,
+not unbearably hot as it would have been in India so late in the
+season. The day was a memorable one to the boys, and I well remember
+the astonishment they caused when, stopping at Shillong on their way
+home, some one jokingly said, "And how many tigers have you shot?" The
+boys gravely replied "Three."
+
+The day was very nearly proving the last to some of us. The two
+boys were being carried in a litter, and my sister and I riding on
+ponies. On leaving the village where we had halted, we were riding
+down a narrow path with only room for one to pass at a time, when,
+suddenly, I heard a shout behind me and saw an elephant following
+me at a great pace, the mahout (driver) vainly endeavoured to stop
+him, he had been frightened by the tiger's dead body and was quite
+unmanageable. I called to my sister, who was in front, to ride at
+full speed, and I followed as quickly as her pony would allow. It
+was a race for life, as, had the elephant gained on us, I, at least,
+must have been crushed. Luckily, the mahout recovered his control,
+and managed to slacken the pace.
+
+On our way home, we passed bushes of wild roses twenty feet in diameter
+and quite impenetrable.
+
+Finally, the tiger was taken to the Maharajah, who had not been well
+enough to come, and, next morning, was brought to us and skinned.
+
+I have already alluded to the turbulent character of Kotwal Koireng,
+the Maharajah's fourth son, and now, again, I was to have fresh
+evidence of it. Early in May, I heard of his having three men so
+severely beaten that one had died, and two were dangerously ill. On
+investigation, I found that the men had been tied up and beaten on
+the back, it was said, for two hours and slapped on the face at the
+same time. I questioned the ministers, and practically there was no
+defence, and, as I heard that the Maharajah was enquiring into the
+matter, I said no more, beyond a warning that a case of murder must
+not be passed over.
+
+The Maharajah handed over the case to the Cherap Court [34] for trial,
+and, as might be expected, they acquitted Kotwal of the charge of
+causing death and found him guilty of injuring the other two. The
+Maharajah sentenced him to banishment for a year to the island of
+Thanga, in the Logtak Lake, and temporary degradation of caste. As
+a sentence of two years' imprisonment had been passed some years
+previously in our own territory, for death caused under similar
+circumstances, the sentence was not so lenient as might have been
+expected. I reported the matter to the Government of India, expressing
+my approval of the sentence, under the circumstances, and my verdict
+was ratified. I intimated to the Durbar that, should such a thing
+occur again, I should insist on his permanent banishment from Manipur.
+
+This I was prepared to carry out myself if necessary. I should
+have liked on this occasion to have procured his banishment, but,
+in dealing with Native States that in these matters are practically
+independent, it is not always well to press matters too far. In old
+days, under our early political agents, such an offence would have
+passed unnoticed. It was a point gained to have the case investigated
+and adjudicated on by the Maharajah, and anything approaching to an
+adequate sentence inflicted. Since the troubles in Manipur, I have
+seen it stated that the sentence was a nominal one; that it certainly
+was not, the prince was banished to Thanga, and if he surreptitiously
+appeared at the capital, he did not appear in public, and when I left
+Manipur on long leave, early in 1882, was still in banishment.
+
+On May 31st, we all left Manipur on our way to England, and my children
+bade adieu to a most happy home. It was a sad parting for most of us,
+and though my wife's health and mine urgently required change, we left
+the valley with regret, and felt deep sorrow as we took our last look
+of it from the adjacent range of hills. We reached Cachar on June 8th,
+having halted as much as possible on high ground. The rivers were in
+flood, and sometimes there was a little difficulty in crossing. We left
+for Shillong on June 9th, and arrived there on the 15th, leaving again
+on the 21st for Bombay, from which, on July 5th, we sailed for England.
+
+While at Shillong we were the guests of the Chief Commissioner,
+so that I had an ample opportunity of talking over affairs with him,
+and it was finally settled that I was to take Shillong on my way back,
+and see Mr. Elliott before leaving, to settle the knotty question of
+the boundary between Manipur and Burmah on the spot, in accordance
+with orders lately received from the Government of India.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+    Return to Manipur--Revolution in my absence--Arrangements for
+    boundary--Survey and settlement--Start for Kongal--Burmah will not
+    act--We settle boundary--Report to Government--Return to England.
+
+
+I was really not fit to undertake any work in India till my health
+was re-established, but could not bear to leave the interests of
+Manipur in other hands until the boundary was settled. I felt that
+I alone had the threads of the whole affair in my hands, and that I
+could not honourably leave my post till I had seen Manipur out of the
+difficulty. Thus it came that I left England again on September 7th,
+and my devoted wife, far less fit than I was for the trials of the
+long journey, accompanied me, as she would not leave me alone.
+
+We reached Shillong on October 18th, 1881, and, after arranging
+all matters connected with the boundary settlement with the Chief
+Commissioner, started for Cachar, and reached that place on October
+25th, leaving again for Manipur next day, and marching to Jeree Ghat,
+where we were met by Thangal Major. We made the usual marches, and
+reached Manipur on November 4th, the Jubraj coming out with a large
+retinue to meet me at Phoiching, eight miles from the capital.
+
+While I was away in the month of June, an attempt at a revolution
+had occurred, the standard of revolt having been raised by a man
+named Eerengha, an unknown individual, but claiming to be of Royal
+lineage; such revolutions were of common occurrence in former days. In
+Colonel McCulloch's time there were eighteen. In this case there was no
+result, except that Eerengha and seventeen followers were captured and
+executed. The treatment was undoubtedly severe, but not necessarily
+too much so, as too great leniency might have led to a repetition,
+and much consequent suffering and bloodshed.
+
+I had an interview with the Maharajah, who was ill when I arrived,
+as soon as he was well enough; and set to work to make preparations
+for our march to the Burmese frontier. I intimated my desire to the
+Maharajah that Bularam Singh, and not Thangal Major, should accompany
+me, as I wished the last to stay at the capital, and also not to let
+him appear to be absolutely indispensable.
+
+I had been appointed Commissioner for settling the boundary with
+plenipotentiary powers, and Mr. R. Phayre, C.S., who was in the
+Burmese commission, and a good Burmese scholar, was appointed as my
+assistant. There was also a survey party under my old friend Colonel
+Badgley, and Mr. Ogle, while Lieutenant (now Major, D.S.O.) Dun, [35]
+came on behalf of the Intelligence Department. Mr. Oldham represented
+the Geological Survey. Dr. Watt was naturalist and medical officer,
+while Captain Angelo, with two hundred men of the 12th Khelat-i-Ghilzie
+Regiment, commanded my escort. Mr. Phayre arrived first, and I sent him
+off to Tamu to try and smooth over matters with the Burmese authorities
+there. Then my old friend Dun came, soon followed by Dr. Watt, then the
+survey party arrived, and Captain Angelo with my escort, and last of
+all Mr. Oldham. Never had Manipur seen so many European officers. Some
+time was required for necessary triangulations before we could start.
+
+On November 30th, just as the sun was rising, Thangal Major came to
+see me, and told me that the Maharajah was very ill and suffering
+great pain. While talking, two guns were fired from the palace, when
+the old man turned pale, evidently thinking that the Maharajah was
+dead. A few minutes after a messenger came to inform us that the guns
+merely announced a domestic event, but Thangal Major was nervous and
+soon took leave, running away to the palace at a pace that did credit
+to his sixty-four years.
+
+On December 1st, Mr. Phayre returned from Tamu, having had a friendly
+but unsatisfactory interview with the Phoongyee. The Pagan Woon had
+been expected but did not arrive, and the Phoongyee had no authority
+to act.
+
+Before starting, the Maharajah visited me in state, and I introduced
+all the officers of the party to him. He looked pale and haggard after
+his illness, but seemed in good spirits. At last, on December 16th,
+we made a move and marched to Thobal-Yaira-pok, and on the following
+day to Ingorok, at the foot of the hills. My wife accompanied us, as
+I was exceedingly anxious to show the Burmese my peaceful intentions,
+and felt sure that the presence of a lady would be a better proof of
+my bona fides than any other I could offer. I heard before leaving
+the frontier, that had it not been for this, a rupture would have
+been certain while our relations were in a state of great tension,
+but the fact of my wife being there, convinced the authorities in
+the Kubo valley, that I had no idea of hostile action.
+
+I have already described the route to Kongal, and my escort were much
+tried by the severity of the marches over such a rough country. The men
+had only lately returned from Afghanistan, and were in fine condition,
+but they said that the country between Kandahar and Kabul, was nothing
+to that between Ingorok and Kongal Tannah. Every day many men were
+footsore, and reached camp, hours after me and my Manipuris. There
+can be no doubt that for some reason or other the Eastern hills and
+jungles are far more trying than those of the North-West frontier.
+
+However, at last we arrived safely at Kongal, and though the Burmese
+and Sumjok officials, to whom I had written polite letters asking
+them to meet me, did not turn up, the survey work went on merrily.
+
+On the 18th, Colonel Badgley, who had come by an independent route
+through the hills, joined my camp, and after a conference we came to
+the conclusion that at any rate I was right in claiming the country
+occupied by the Chussads and Choomyangs, as Manipuri territory. This
+was very satisfactory, as the day before I had been much annoyed by the
+Sumjok authorities having prevented some of the former fears coming
+to pay their respects to me. The attitude of the Sumjok people was
+passively hostile, they refused to join in making out the boundary,
+and threw every obstacle in the way of my doing so, but they were
+evidently not inclined to be the first to shed blood.
+
+On December 19th, I sent out two unarmed parties to clear some
+ground for survey marks, but one of them was stopped by an armed
+party of Sumjok men. On hearing this the next day I ordered the
+Manipuri subadar in charge, to halt where he was, and I wrote to
+the Pagan Woon to complain, and to ask him to order the Tsawbwa to
+interfere. On the 21st, I heard that another party had been stopped,
+and I asked with regard to them as I had done with the first. That
+afternoon I received a civil letter from the Pagan Woon brought by
+a Bo (captain), saying that he had orders to conduct negotiations
+at Tamu, and was not authorised to come to Kongal Tannah. I wrote a
+conciliatory reply urging him to visit us.
+
+On the 22nd of December, I heard that my two parties had been
+forcibly driven out by large bodies of armed men. I therefore called
+in some Manipuri detachments lest there should be a collision, as
+the atmosphere was getting very warlike, and only required a spark
+to produce a conflagration. All the population of the Kubo valley
+were said to be arming. The Burmese we talked to frankly admitted
+if there was a rupture the fault would lie with Mandalay, for not
+sending a proper representative to meet me, in accordance with the
+request of the Government of India, conveyed months before.
+
+Certainly one false move on our part would have provoked a
+rupture. However, everything comes to him who waits. We made every
+effort to keep the peace, and while the authorities were opposing
+us we kept up a friendly intercourse with all the individual Burmese
+and Shans near us, and I carried on negotiation with the Kukis. The
+Chussads were inclined to be friendly, but the Choomyangs were still
+under the influence of Sumjok. Fortunately Colonel Badgley found that
+he could dispense with the two points from whence our men had been
+driven, and we discovered a little stream that formed an admirable
+boundary line entirely in accordance with the terms laid down in
+Pemberton's definition of the boundary.
+
+Further north, I knew the country well myself, and we had now no
+difficulty in laying down a definite boundary line about which there
+could be no doubt. This was done, and pillars were erected, and the
+line marked on the map. Manipur might, according to Pemberton's
+statement, have claimed a good deal of territory occupied by
+Burmese subjects, but this I refused to allow, as it would have been
+interfering with the "status quo," which I desired to preserve. I
+called all the Sumjok people I could to witness what I had done,
+and they all agreed that what I said was fair, and that the fault,
+if any, lay with the Burmese authorities, for not taking part in
+the arrangement. This was willing testimony, as none of the people
+need have come near me. Even Tamoo, the chief of Old Sumjok, or Taap,
+as the Manipuris call it, visited me, and expressed his satisfaction
+with what had been done. On Christmas Day, 1881, my wife and I had a
+party of seven at our table, an unprecedented sight, and probably the
+last time that nine Europeans will ever assemble at Kongal Tannah. My
+friend Dun, who had been badly wounded by a pangee (bamboo stake)
+had to be carried in.
+
+Before leaving Kongal, I went round all the pillars that had been
+erected, and saw that they were intact. Mr. Ogle's party went off to
+the north, escorted through the village of Choomyang by Lieutenant
+Dun. These people being under the influence of Sumjok, it was a
+very delicate business getting through their village without a
+rupture. This affair Dun managed with great tact. We left Kongal
+on our homeward journey on the 6th of January, but previous to
+starting I brought my long-standing negotiations with the Chussads
+to a successful conclusion. They agreed to negotiate with me but not
+with the Manipuris, and to abide by my decision entirely.
+
+I sent a message to the Choomyangs and other Kukis who had
+given trouble, telling them that they were undoubtedly within
+Manipur, and that I gave them forty-two days in which to submit,
+or clear out, adding, that if at the end of that time they gave any
+trouble, they would be treated as rebels and attacked without more
+ceremony. Eventually they submitted and became peaceful subjects
+of Manipur. As to the great question--that of the boundary--I may
+here add that it received the sanction of the Government of India,
+and proved a thorough success. Though not noticing it officially,
+the Burmese practically acknowledged it, and it remained intact,
+till the Kubo valley became a British possession in December 1885.
+
+My wife and I reached Manipur on the 9th of January, having made the
+last two marches in one, and next day were joined by Mr. Phayre, who
+had come, via Tamu. He gave it as his opinion, that the Pagan Woon
+was greatly disappointed at having had no authority from Mandalay to
+negotiate with me, and described him as a sensible well-disposed man.
+
+I had now to write my report of my mission, and having finished this,
+and handed over charge to my successor, I left Manipur with my wife
+on the 29th of January, reaching Cachar, where we met Mr. Elliott,
+the Chief Commissioner, on 5th of February. We left that evening by
+boat, and travelling with the utmost speed possible, with such means
+as we possessed, reached Naraingunge, near Dacca, and after waiting
+two days for a steamer went to Calcutta, via Goalundo, and thence to
+Bombay and England, where we arrived in March, both of us very much
+in need of a prolonged rest.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+    Return to India--Visit Shillong--Manipur again--Cordial
+    reception--Trouble with Thangal Major--New arts introduced.
+
+
+I left for India again in August 1884. I had had but a sad period
+of sick leave, as my wife never recovered from her fatigue and
+illness, and died in 1883. I was obliged to prolong my leave to make
+arrangements for my children.
+
+I took over charge of the Manipur Agency on the 1st October, 1884,
+at Shillong, and stayed a few days with the Chief Commissioner. I
+left again on 8th October and reached Cachar on the 15th, having
+made every effort to push on, and given my boatmen double pay for
+doing so. On my way to Cachar, I met people who complained to me of
+the way they had been treated in Manipur while I was away, and of the
+arrogance displayed by old Thangal Major, who, during my absence, had
+become almost despotic. Thangal was an excellent man when kept well
+in hand, but he required to be managed with great firmness. During
+the Maharajah's increasing illness, a good opportunity was given to
+a strong man to come to the front, and Thangal took advantage of
+it. On 20th October, I reached Jeeree Ghat, and was received with
+great effusion by the Minister Bularam Singh. At Kala Naga on the
+22nd, I heard definite complaints against Thangal, a sure proof that
+something very bad was going on, as no one would have ventured to
+complain without grave provocation. Bularam Singh was Thangal's rival,
+so I asked him nothing, knowing well that I should hear as much as I
+wanted at Manipur. At Noongha, next day, there were fresh complaints,
+the charge being, that men told off to work on the roads were being
+used by Thangal to carry merchandize for himself.
+
+At Leelanong, overlooking the beautiful Kowpoom valley, some Nagas
+(Koupooees) brought me a man of their tribe who had been carried off
+as a boy by the Lushais, and only lately redeemed. He was still in
+Lushai costume, and though shorter and fairer, he greatly resembled
+one of that tribe, showing what an influence dress has.
+
+On 28th October, I arrived at Bissenpore, intending to march to the
+capital next day, but was delayed by an unpleasant circumstance. It
+was, as already mentioned, the custom for the Maharajah to meet me
+at the entrance to the capital on my arrival, but knowing that he was
+not well, I asked the minister to write and say that I did not expect
+him to do so, but I would invite the Jubraj to meet me at Phoiching,
+half-way between the capital and Bissenpore instead. I also wrote the
+same to my head clerk, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo, asking him to notify
+my wishes to the Durbar, as I felt it extremely likely that were
+Bularam Singh alone to write, old Thangal might intrigue and throw
+obstacles in the way to discredit him with me and the Durbar. The
+minister's letters were not answered, but I heard from Rusni Lall
+Coondoo, that he asked to see the Jubraj who had already heard from
+Bularam Singh, but he was told that he was ill. After a great deal of
+delay an interview was accorded, and though he appeared quite well,
+the Jubraj said he was too ill to come, but would send a younger
+brother. Feeling sure that there was nothing to prevent his coming,
+I sent a message of sympathy, also to say, that I would wait at
+Bissenpore till he recovered. I knew perfectly well that all this
+story had emanated from Thangal Major's brain, and that I was to be
+subjected to inconvenience and want of courtesy, in order to snub his
+colleague. He had suffered from a sore foot which prevented his coming
+to Jeeree Ghat to meet me and he could not forgive Bularam Singh for
+having taken his place. The Jubraj ought to have known better, but
+among natives any slight offered to a superior is an enhancement to
+one's own dignity, so from this point of view he would gain in his
+own estimation.
+
+On the morning of October 30th, as soon as I was dressed, I saw
+Thangal Major outside my hut. I heard afterwards that, directly my
+decision had been communicated to the Durbar, he had volunteered
+to come out, and as he said, bring me in. When we had had a little
+friendly conversation, he with his usual bluntness, which I did
+not object to, asked me to go in, saying that the Wankai Rakpa [36]
+would meet me, the Jubraj being ill. I firmly declined, saying that I
+would wait till he recovered. He then assured me that the real cause
+was the critical state of the Jubraj's wife. I doubted the truth,
+but a lady being in the case, courtesy and good feeling demanded
+that I should accept the statement as an excuse, and I therefore
+said I would leave, if the Wankai Rakpa and another prince met me
+on behalf of the Jubraj. This was at once agreed to, and I therefore
+marched off, being met in great state by the two princes, who rode by
+my side all the way. As I neared the capital, a vast crowd came out
+to meet me, the numbers increasing at every step, and I was received
+with every demonstration of respect and sympathy, many of those who
+knew my wife showing a delicacy of feeling that greatly moved me. Old
+Thangal, when I met him, spoke very kindly on the subject, saying,
+"It is sad to see you return alone, and we know what it must be to
+you." Numberless were the enquiries by name after all the children. At
+last I reached the Residency, where my old attendants were ready
+to do all they could for me. It was something like home, old books,
+furniture, children's toys, still here and there, and in a corner of
+the verandah my little girl's litter, in which she was carried out
+morning and evening, but the faces that make home were away.
+
+I mention the foregoing incident regarding the Jubraj, as it is a good
+example of the small difficulties connected with etiquette, that one
+has to contend with in a place like Manipur. The question is far more
+important than it seems. Any relaxation in a trifling matter like this,
+seems to Asiatics a sign that you are disposed to relax your vigilance
+in graver questions. Indeed, to a native chief, etiquette itself is a
+very grave matter, and many terrible quarrels have arisen from it. I
+well remember a slight being offered to the Viceroy, because a Rajah
+fancied he had not received all the honours due to him.
+
+I found a crop of small difficulties awaiting me in Manipur, the
+Durbar, and especially old Thangal, had got out of hand, and had
+to be pulled up a little. There were numberless complaints from
+British subjects of petty oppression which had to be listened to,
+and I felt it rather hard having this unpleasant duty to perform
+just after my return; but it was duty, and had to be done, and by
+dint of firmness, combined with courtesy, I soon set things right,
+but Thangal Major rather resented the steady pressure which I found
+it necessary to apply.
+
+Before leaving Manipur in 1881, I had sent off some Manipuris to
+Cawnpore to learn carpet making and leather work. When I returned,
+these men had long been making use of their knowledge in Manipur,
+and I found that first-rate cotton carpets and boots, shoes and
+saddles of English patterns, had been manufactured for the Maharajah,
+the workmanship being in all cases creditable, and in that of the
+carpets most excellent.
+
+I tried to send men to Bombay to learn to make art pottery, and the
+Maharajah was at one time anxious about it, but the correspondence
+with the School of Art was conducted in so leisurely a manner on
+their side, extending over nearly a year, that he got tired of it,
+and declined to send the men. I had a little pottery made in Manipur,
+which I brought home with me, the only existing specimens of an art
+that died out in its infancy.
+
+I had several pieces of silver work made to try the mettle of the
+Manipuri silversmiths, one bowl, a most perfect copy of a Burmese
+bowl with figures on it in high relief, was beautifully executed,
+and still excites the admiration of all who see it.
+
+The Mussulman population of Manipur, was descended from early
+immigrants from India, Sylhet, and Cachar, who had married Manipuri
+wives; they numbered about 5000, and were rather kept under by the
+Durbar, but to nothing like the same extent that Hindoos would have
+been under a Mussulman Government. Formerly, they had to prostrate
+themselves before the Rajah like other subjects, but they having
+represented that this was against their religion, Chandra Kirtee Singh
+excused them from doing it, allowing a simple salaam instead. They,
+(probably owing to their dependent position), were not such an
+ill-mannered and disagreeable set as their co-religionists of Cachar,
+and were generally quiet and inoffensive. The headman of the sect
+received the title of Nawab from the Rajah. These men had a grievance
+to bring forward when I returned, and I procured them some redress.
+
+I visited the Maharajah in due course, and found him better than I
+expected, and I took an early opportunity of announcing my return to
+the Burmese authorities in the Kubo valley, receiving civil letters in
+return. Unfortunately, I found that great soreness still prevailed
+in Manipur on account of the non-settlement of the Kongal case,
+and I was constantly on the alert lest evil results should follow,
+as I always suspected old Thangal of a desire to make reprisals.
+
+When I had a day to spare, I went to see my experimental garden and fir
+wood, at Kang-joop-kool, finding everything in a flourishing state,
+the wood a tangled thicket, with foxgloves and other English flowers
+growing in wild profusion. One morning when walking out, I saw some
+prisoners going to work, and as they passed me, one or two looked as
+if they would like to speak. I accordingly passed by them again to
+give them an opportunity, when a man ran up and complained that he
+was imprisoned without any definite period being assigned, a common
+practice in Manipur. Another man, whom he called as a witness, spoke
+good Hindoostani, and on my enquiring where he learned it, he said
+he was a Manipuri from Sylhet. I sent for him directly I got home,
+and he came with Thangal Major, and, as he was a British subject,
+and the Durbar had no right to imprison him, I sent for a smith, and
+had his irons struck off in my presence. I spoke quietly, but firmly
+to the Minister, but showed him plainly that I would not stand having
+British subjects imprisoned except by my orders. The man's offence
+was not paying a debt for which he was security, and the punishment
+was just, according to the laws of Manipur, and would have been in
+England before 1861.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+    A friend in need--Tour round the valley--Meet the Chief
+    Commissioner--March to Cachar--Tour through the Tankhool
+    country--Metomie--Saramettie--Somrah--Terrace cultivators--A
+    dislocation--Old quarters at Kongal Tannah--Return to the valley--A
+    sad parting.
+
+
+On the 26th of November, my old friend Lieutenant Dun (now Major
+Dun, D.S.O.), joined me. Knowing I wanted a friend to cheer me
+in my loneliness, he had very kindly accepted the permission of
+his department to accompany me on a tour through the hills to the
+north-east of Manipur. No European was more deservedly popular of
+late years among all classes in Manipur, where he had visited me
+once or twice before. I felt his kindness deeply, he was always a
+charming, genial and highly intellectual companion, and many a long
+and tiring march was cheered by his society. On the 2nd of December,
+we started on a preliminary tour round the west and south of the
+valley, visiting the Logtak lake, with its floating islands, its
+island-hill of Thanga, with its orange gardens and place of exile,
+and large fishing establishment. When I first arrived in Manipur,
+oranges were a rarity. Now, owing to the enterprise of the Maharajah
+in planting trees, they were fairly common, and here we were able
+to gather them. The orange tree is capricious and all soils will not
+suit it, and up to the fifth or sixth year it is always liable to be
+attacked by a grub that kills it, after that it becomes hardier. I
+never was very successful with orange trees, though I took great
+pains with them. From the Logtak lake, we marched to a place called
+Thonglel, in the hills, where we were met by all the representatives
+of the Kukis in that direction, thence to a place called Koombee,
+a settlement of Loees, low-caste Manipuris. Afterwards we marched to
+Chairel on the main river into which all the rivers of Manipur flow
+before it enters the hills to the south of the valley. After visiting
+Shoogoonoo, a frontier post, we returned to the capital, on December
+11th, after a very pleasant tour of one hundred and forty-six miles
+in nine marching days.
+
+We next marched up the road to the Naga Hills, meeting the Chief
+Commissioner, Mr. Elliott, at Mao, and returning with him to Manipur,
+where the usual visits were exchanged. After a day or two's halt,
+the Chief Commissioner set out for Cachar and I accompanied him to the
+frontier at Jeeree Ghat, returning to Manipur by forced marches. The
+bridge over the Mukker had been broken by a fallen tree, but the river,
+so formidable in the rains, was easily fordable. A short time before
+reaching the summit of Kala Naga, a pretty little incident occurred,
+which I have never forgotten. Some of my coolies were toiling up the
+steep ascent with their loads, when two young Kukis met us with smiling
+faces as if something had given them great pleasure. They immediately
+made two of the men with me put down their loads, and took them up
+themselves to relieve the wearied ones. On my enquiry who they were,
+they said they were friends of my coolies and had come to help them. It
+was one of the prettiest sights I ever saw, the pleasure the two men
+seemed to derive from doing a kind act. Dun and I reached Manipur
+on the 10th of January. Soon after my return, in fact before the
+evening, a Lushai was brought to me who had been found in the jungle
+with his hands tightly fastened together by a bar of iron fashioned
+into a rude pair of handcuffs. He appeared to be mad, but harmless,
+and had probably been kept in confinement by his own people and had
+escaped. I had the irons taken off, and ordered him to be cared for,
+but he soon ran off in the direction of his own country.
+
+On the 21st of January, Dun and I set off on our tour through the
+Tankhool country. We marched via Lairen and Noongsuangkong, already
+described. The country had been surveyed, but the surveyors had
+taken names of villages given by men from the Naga Hills district,
+and they were unrecognisable to the native inhabitants. Much of my
+march, after leaving Noongsuangkong, was through a new country,
+and a very interesting and lovely country it was. The benefits
+of being under a strong government were evident in the peace that
+reigned everywhere. The Manipuri language also had spread, and in some
+villages seemed to be used by every one, while in others even children
+understood it. It was evidently the common commercial language.
+
+On the 26th, we halted on the Lainer river, the large village of
+Gazephimi being far above us at some miles distant. It was late in
+the afternoon but Dun wanted to see all he could, and accompanied
+by some hardy Manipuris started. They all returned in a suspiciously
+short space of time, just at nightfall, Dun having astonished every
+one by his marching powers. He described the villagers as a surly,
+morose set, the description always given of them.
+
+On January 28th we reached Jessami, a fine village of the Sozai tribe;
+they much resembled the Mao people. They crowded round us and were
+much pleased when we showed them our watches, and allowed them to feel
+our boots and socks. Some of the houses were large and well stocked
+with rice. One old man took us into his house and showed us a shield
+carefully wrapped up in cloth that bore the tokens of his having slain
+fifteen people. The village contained no skulls, and our friends told
+us that they obeyed orders and killed no one. We enquired about the
+snowy peak of Saramettie, which was visible from some point not far
+distant, but the people assured us that they had never heard of it.
+
+On the 29th, some Metomi men came in with a young man who acted
+as interpreter, he having been captured, and then kept as a guest
+in Manipur for some time, to learn the language, by Bularam Singh,
+who was the Minister accompanying me. He seemed quite pleased to see
+his old host. The Metomi people were a strange set, quite naked,
+except for a cloth over the shoulders in cold weather. They are
+slighter built than the Angamis and Tankhools. They could count up
+to one hundred, and three of their numerals, four, six and seven,
+are the same as in the Manipuri language. They wear their hair cut
+across the forehead like some of the tribes in Assam. Their patterns
+of weaving rather resembled those of the Abors and Kasias, but were
+finer. They wore ear-rings of brass wire very cleverly made, the wire
+being imported through other tribes.
+
+On the 31st, having heard that I should be well received, Dun and
+I started for Metomi, with an escort of Manipuris. We first made a
+descent of 2000 feet to the Lainer, which we forded, the water being
+knee deep; there were the remains of a suspension bridge for use
+in the rainy season. We then ascended for about 1000 or 1500 feet,
+till near the village, when I halted my men and sent on my Angami
+interpreter, and one of the Metomi men, to ask that a party might
+come down to welcome us, as I had reason to think that the villagers
+were undecided as to what they should do, and I feared to frighten
+them. After waiting a long time, we heard a war-cry, and we all
+started to our feet and seized our arms, in case of an attack; the next
+minute, however, there was another cry, showing that the people were
+carrying loads. Soon after a long line of men appeared, each carrying
+a small quantity of rice, and the heads of the village came forward,
+presenting us with fowls, and heaped up the rice in front of me. We
+then walked on to the village, distant about a mile and a quarter,
+along an avenue of pollarded oaks, backed by fir trees. At last,
+after passing a ditch and small rampart, we reached the outer gate,
+then passed along a narrow path, with a precipice to our right, and a
+thick thorn hedge to our left for about eighty yards, as far as the
+inner gate, on entering which we found ourselves in the village. We
+were then led along a series of winding streets till we came to the
+highest part.
+
+This was the most picturesque Naga village I have ever seen, and
+reminded me of an old continental town, the ground it covered, being
+very hilly, and the houses, constructed of timber with thatched roofs
+with the eaves touching one another, built in streets. Sometimes one
+side of a street was higher than the other, and the upper side had
+a little vacant space railed in, in front of the houses.
+
+The houses were more like those of the Tankhools than the Angamis,
+and contained round tubs for beer cut out of a solid block of wood,
+in shape like old-fashioned standard churns. The village contained
+pigs and dogs, and the houses were decorated with cows' and buffaloes'
+horns. We were welcomed in a friendly way, but our hosts did not
+seem to like the idea of our staying the night, of which we had no
+intention. Our watches and binoculars greatly interested them. We
+tried in vain to induce the women to come out, the men saying they
+feared lest we should seize them. This seemed very strange, as it was
+the only hill village I ever saw where the women had the slightest
+objection to appear. As the Manipuris always respect women, it could
+not be due to their presence, even had they had experience of them,
+which was not the case. On leaving the village, we passed through
+a splendid grove of giant bamboos, and then turned into our old path
+again. Metomi was said to contain seven hundred houses, but that seemed
+to me a very low estimate. We reached our camp near Jessami at 7 P.M.,
+narrowly escaping a severe scorching, as some torch-bearers who came
+to meet us, set fire to the grass prematurely, and we had to run hard
+to escape the flames. I wanted to make a vocabulary of the Metomi
+language the next day, but the whole village had a drinking bout,
+and every one was incapacitated during the rest of our stay.
+
+We marched to a place called Lapvomai on February 3rd, and next day,
+wishing to explore the country beyond, Dun and I, with a picked party
+of Manipuris, crossed the ridge above the village, and descending
+to the stream below, began the ascent of the great Eastern range,
+encamping in a most lovely spot in a pine forest. Every one was
+too tired to search for water, so the Manipuris went supperless to
+bed. Dun and I had brought a supply, which we shared with our few
+Naga followers, the Manipuris being prevented from doing the same,
+by their caste prejudices. Early next morning we started up the hill
+again, leaving the bulk of our party a mile or two in advance of our
+halting place, to search for water and cook. We, with two or three
+plucky Manipuris, whom hunger and thirst could not induce to leave
+us, pursued our upward path. At last we came on patches of snow, and
+in a hollow tree found the remains of a bear which had gone there to
+die. After a toilsome ascent, often impeded by a thick undergrowth of
+thorny bamboo, we, having long passed the region of fir trees, reached
+the summit at 8000 feet, only to find, to our great disappointment,
+a spur from the main range blocking our view. As this range might have
+taken another day to surmount, and after all be only the precursor
+of another, we reluctantly traced our steps backwards, and reached
+our party who found water and cooked their food. We witnessed some
+amusing instances of rapid eating, on the part of our hungry followers,
+who had well deserved their dinner. We then descended to the stream,
+and encamped on its banks after being on foot for eleven hours.
+
+Next day, we marched to our old encampment at Lapvomai. On February
+7th, we marched to Wallong, passing through lovely scenery, a series
+of deep valleys and ravines and high hills, with a splendid view down
+the valley of Thetzir and Lainer, and beyond, the junction of the
+latter with its north-eastern confluent, we finally encamped close
+to a very remarkable gorge. On the 8th, we had another march to the
+village of Lusour, where I greatly pleased a woman and some children,
+by giving them red cloths, the former would have denuded herself to
+put hers on, had I not prevented her. Next morning, before starting,
+we had our breakfast in public, and ordered some boiled eggs; the
+hill people are supremely indifferent to the age of an egg, and even
+seem to think the richness of flavour enhanced by age, so that almost
+all brought to us were either addled or had chickens in them. At
+least two dozen were boiled before we found one that we could eat,
+and as soon as an egg was proved to be bad, there was a great rush
+of Tankhools to seize the delicacy, and our bad taste in not liking
+them gave great satisfaction.
+
+On February 9th, we reached Somrah, a most interesting but severe march
+of eighteen miles. We first crossed a ridge 8000 feet in height, where
+among other trees we found a new species of yew--Cephalotaxus. After
+reaching the summit, we made a gradual descent along an exceedingly
+steep hillside, where a false step would have landed us in the stream
+2000 feet below. After this we descended more rapidly, and, crossing
+a stream, followed a beautifully constructed watercourse through
+some recently cleared land. We traced our way along its windings
+for some miles, and then, after another ascent, at last came to a
+lovely undulating path through a forest of firs and rhododendrons,
+the latter just coming into flower. The path at length, after an
+ascent of 200 feet, brought us to the village, a finely built one of
+the regular Tankhool type, with over two hundred houses, built with
+stout plank walls, and having an appearance of much comfort.
+
+The next day we went to Kongailon, one of the Somrah group, making
+a descent of 2000 feet to cross a river, and again ascending 5600
+feet. We passed many skilfully constructed watercourses and much
+terrace cultivation, indeed, the Somrah villages have the finest
+system of irrigation I have ever seen, and the long parallel line of
+watercourses on a hillside present a most remarkable appearance. At
+Kongailon, we halted a day to explore the country, and receive
+deputies from various villages. From the ridge behind the village,
+at a height of from 7000 to 8000 feet, there was a fine view of the
+Somrah basin--valley it cannot be called; it is a huge basin, the rim
+of which consists of hills, having an average height of over 8000 feet,
+the villages being on the inner slopes or on bold spurs.
+
+On February 12th, a very severe march took us to Guachan,
+a miserable-looking village full of very dirty people, many of
+whom were naked, their bodies being covered with a thick coating
+of dirt. We had to halt next day to rest the coolies, and to have
+a path cleared ahead. On February 14th, we again started, halting
+on the Cherebee river, at a height of 4400 feet. On our way, while
+passing along a lovely ridge, covered with rhododendrons in flower,
+we had a fine view of Saramettie, with its snow cap.
+
+Next day, we marched over Kachao-phung, 8000 feet high, and encamped
+on its slopes at 7600 feet. So perverse are the ways of the hill-men,
+that the road, a well-used one, was carried within fifty feet of
+the summit, though it would have been easy to cross at a much lower
+level. We encamped in a primeval forest of huge trees, the branches
+of which, moved by the fierce wind that blew all night, waved to and
+fro with such a threatening noise as to preclude sleep for a long time.
+
+On the evening of the 12th, one of our coolies was brought to me,
+who had dislocated his shoulder. We had no doctor of any kind with us,
+and no one who understood how to reduce it. Dun and I tried our utmost,
+and I put the poor fellow under chloroform, to relax the muscles and
+spare him pain, but, alas! with no result. I tried to induce him to go
+to Manipur, and be treated by my native doctor there; but he objected,
+and preferred going to his home; so I gave him a present and let him
+go, and very sorry we were to see him relinquish his only chance
+of getting right again. Every one ought to be taught practically
+to reduce a dislocation; I had often heard the process described,
+but never seen it done, and my lack of experience cost the poor Naga
+the use of his arm. It is one of the saddest parts of one's life
+in the wilds of India to meet cases of sickness and injury without
+the power to give relief. Simple complaints I treated extensively,
+and with great success, but it was grievous to see such suffering in
+more complicated cases, and to be unable to do anything. A skilful and
+sympathetic doctor has a fine field for good work in such regions. A
+sick savage is the most miserable of mortals.
+
+The good points of the Manipuris, as excellent material for
+hardy soldiers, were brought out very prominently on these long
+marches. No men could have borne the fatigue and hardships better or
+more patiently than they did. It quite confirmed me in the opinion
+I had long since formed that, taken every way, the Manipuris were
+superior to any of the hill-tribes around them. I remember that
+when at Jessami, one of the Manipuris, at my suggestion, challenged
+any Naga, who liked, to a wrestling match, none would come forward,
+though the villagers were a fine sturdy set. It was impossible, also,
+to help noticing, as we went along, the very remarkable aptitude the
+Manipuris possess for dealing with hill-tribes. The Burmese tried in
+vain to subdue the Tankhools, and in one case a force of seven hundred
+men, that they sent against them, was entirely annihilated. However,
+as the Manipuris advanced, the different tribes, after one struggle,
+quietly submitted, and on both occasions when I marched through the
+north-eastern Tankhool country, the people were in admirable order,
+and behaved as if they had always been peaceful subjects of Manipur.
+
+Next morning, though the thermometer was at thirty-six degrees,
+the Manipuris felt the cold so severely from the terrible wind
+that had been blowing all night, that they did not attempt to cook
+before marching, but started off and hurried down the hill to get
+to a warmer region. I never knew the hardy fellows do this before,
+and it shows the influence of a piercing wind in making cold felt,
+as I have often seen them quite happy on a still night with the
+thermometer at twenty-six degrees or lower.
+
+Five more marches brought us to Kongal Tannah, where I encamped on the
+ground we occupied in 1881-1882 when I was Boundary Commissioner. On
+our way, we received a visit from Tonghoo, the redoubtable Chussad
+chief, now a peaceful subject of Manipur, a man of the usual Kuki type,
+imperturbable and inscrutable. Next day, I inspected the boundary
+pillars I had set up, and found them intact, a satisfactory proof
+that the settlement was not unacceptable to either Manipur or Burmah.
+
+We marched back by the old route, encamping as we had done more than
+four years before in the deep valleys of the Maglung and Turet. On the
+24th, from the crest of the Yoma range, we saw the valley of Manipur
+once more at our feet, and in the evening encamped at Ingorok. Next
+day, I parted from my friend, I riding into Manipur, and Dun going
+north for a few days' more survey of the country. He rejoined me
+on March 2nd. Thus ended one of the hardest, but, at the same time,
+one of the pleasantest marches I ever made, all the pleasanter for
+the society of such a clever and charming companion. We spent one
+more week together, and then Dun went back to his appointment in the
+Intelligence Department, to my great regret, and I settled down to my
+usual routine work, constantly varied by interesting little episodes.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+    More troubles with Thangal Major--Tit-for-tat--Visit to the Kubo
+    valley--A new Aya Pooiel--Journey to Shillong--War is declared--A
+    message to Kendat, to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents--Anxiety
+    as to their fate--March to Mao.
+
+
+During the spring of 1885, I had constant trouble with Thangal
+Major; the old man was perpetually doing illegal acts. He had lost
+his head during my absence in England, and though treated with every
+courtesy, he greatly resented being called to order. Some Mussulmans
+had complained to Mr. Elliott about the oppression exercised towards
+them, and in my absence Thangal was foolish enough to imprison them. Of
+course, I heard of it, and insisted on their release, and this weakened
+his authority. Again, he, as "Aya Pooiel," i.e. Minister for Burmese
+Affairs, greatly resented our not having settled the Kongal case,
+and insisted on the authors being punished. We were very good friends
+privately, though I always expected further trouble with him. The
+Maharajah's ill health also gave me anxiety, as he was no longer the
+active man he once was, and was daily falling more and more under
+Thangal's influence.
+
+At last matters came to a crisis. On May 23rd, I received a letter from
+the Burmese authorities at Tamu, brought by a deputation reporting that
+some murders had been committed by Manipuri subjects, and the next
+day when the visitors came to see me, they openly accused the Mombee
+Kukis of having done the deed. I felt sure that the outrage had been
+carried out at the instigation of Thangal Major, as a set-off against
+the Kongal case, and I sent for him. He came to see me on May 25th,
+and, when I opened the subject, he assumed rather a jaunty air. I
+spoke very gravely, and told him that it was a very serious business,
+and that an investigation must take place, and that I wished him, as
+Aya Pooiel, to accompany me. He replied in a very unbecoming manner,
+and began to make all sorts of frivolous excuses, the burden of his
+speech being that, as justice had not been done in the Kongal case,
+there was no need to investigate a case brought by the Burmese. I was
+very calm, and remonstrated several times, but seeing that it had no
+effect, I requested him to leave my presence, which he did. I then
+wrote to the Maharajah asking him to appoint Bularam Singh to aid me
+in the investigation, also reporting Thangal's conduct, and saying
+that I could not allow him to attend on me till he had apologised. The
+worst of Thangal's behaviour was, that he spoke in Manipuri, and in
+the presence of the Burmese messengers, who understood it, instead of
+in Hindoostani which no one but myself understood. Thinking carefully
+over the matter, I wrote to the Maharajah on May 26th, requesting
+him to replace Thangal in the Aya Pooielship by another officer,
+suggesting Bularam Singh, as I did not consider it safe to leave him
+in charge of the Burmese frontier.
+
+There was the greatest opposition offered to my request, and the
+Maharajah made every effort to evade it. It was currently stated by
+people in the Court circle that it would be easier to depose the
+Maharajah himself, but I remained firm. Meanwhile, Bularam Singh
+was appointed to accompany me, and, on June 8th, I left for Moreh
+Tannah, near Tamu, halting the first day at Thobal. Before leaving,
+I received an apologetic letter from Thangal, and later he called
+on me, and made an ample apology, speaking very nicely. I accepted
+the apology personally, quite reciprocating his friendly sentiments,
+but told him that, having acted in the way he did, I could not trust
+him as Aya Pooiel.
+
+I reached Moreh Tannah on June 13th, and was visited by some
+Burmese. The next day, I proceeded to the scene of the murder,
+and exhumed two headless bodies, and took evidence regarding the
+raid. Before reaching Manipur, I heard through some Kukis the most
+convincing proofs that the Mombee people had committed the raid, and
+at Thangal Major's instigation. I obtained all the necessary details
+later on, but the Burmese war prevented my undertaking an expedition
+for the release of some Burmese captives who had been carried away
+and sold, though I accomplished it later on.
+
+At Moreh Tannah, I obtained some excellent mangoes, the only ones
+free from insects that I ever saw on the eastern frontier, those in
+Assam and Manipur being so full of them as to be uneatable when ripe,
+though beautiful to look at. Here also I had most unpleasant evidence
+of the existence of a plant that has the smell of decomposed flesh. I
+imagined that a dead body had been buried under the temporary hut I
+lived in, till a Manipuri explained matters to me, and showed me the
+plant in question.
+
+I reached Manipur on June 20th, and a day or two after wrote to the
+Maharajah, calling to mind my letter respecting the Aya Pooielship, and
+again requesting Thangal's removal. The next day the old fellow called,
+and we had a very friendly interview, and I explained my reasons for
+acting as I had done. He seemed convinced, and rose and seized my hand,
+and said, "You are right. I understand thoroughly." He then said he
+would cheerfully submit, and went away in an apparently excellent
+frame of mind. It is said that after this, his son, Lumphel Singh,
+a very bad young man, talked him over and urged him to resist, but,
+anyhow, he soon after went to see the Maharajah, and recanted all he
+had said to me. However, I was determined to persist, and told the
+Maharajah plainly that he must choose between me and Thangal, with the
+result that he consented, and the Aya Pooielship was given to another.
+
+This struggle caused me great regret, as Thangal had many good
+qualities, and but for his having had his own way too much during my
+absence in England, would never have lost his head as he did. However,
+there was one good result, as I established very friendly relations
+with the Burmese authorities, who saw that I wished to be just,
+and this stood me in good stead when the war broke out.
+
+During the whole time that the dispute was going on, I had the support
+of the Jubraj, who said I was in the right, and most people, I believe,
+thought likewise. All the same it was painful to gain a victory over
+one who had worked well with me for years, more especially as I felt
+that the weakness of our own Government in not insisting on justice
+being done in the Kongal case, had given him some justification in
+his own eyes, though this was a plea that I could never admit.
+
+In October 1885, I went to Shillong to see the Acting Chief
+Commissioner, Mr. Ward, and as he was intending to march through
+Manipur on his way to the Naga Hills, I stayed with him, and we all
+left Shillong together on November 4th. We left Cachar on November
+12th, and halted that evening at Jeeree Ghat, I on the Manipuri
+side of the river, the Chief Commissioner and his following on the
+British. A short time before dinner--we were all Mr. Ward's guests--I
+received a note from him, directing my attention to a telegram,
+and asking me to act on it. The telegram was a startling one, and
+was to the effect that war with Burmah was to commence, and that our
+troops would pass the frontier on a certain date; that there were
+nine European and many native British subjects in the employ of the
+Bombay-Burmah Corporation in the Chindwin forests with whom it had
+been impossible to communicate, and to ask me to make every effort
+to let them know the facts, and to do anything I could to assist
+them. The matter was extremely urgent, as, if I remember rightly,
+the 25th was the day for the troops to enter Upper Burmah, and every
+moment was of the utmost importance.
+
+I thought it over for five minutes, and determined on a course of
+action, and set to work at once to follow it out. I knew perfectly
+well that with the frontier and all roads so carefully guarded, as
+I had seen those in the Kubo valley to be, there was absolutely no
+chance of a secret messenger advancing ten miles on Burmese soil,
+and I therefore resolved to send my letter through the Kendat Woon
+(Governor of Kendat), the great Burmese province of which the Kubo
+valley was part. I wrote a letter to the European employes of the
+Bombay-Burmah Corporation, giving the message I was asked to transmit,
+and urging them to make every effort to accept my hospitality and
+protection in Manipur. To this letter I appended Burmese and Manipuri
+translations, and put them in an open envelope addressed in the three
+languages, hoping and believing that, seeing that the contents were
+the same in both languages, which they had the means of understanding,
+the Burmese authorities would, on the principle of the Rosetta stone,
+assume that I had said the same in English.
+
+This done, I enclosed the envelope in a letter to the Kendat Woon, in
+which I told him exactly how matters stood, and that in a short time
+Burmah would be annexed, and urging him, as he valued the goodwill of
+the conquerors, to make every effort to protect and aid the British
+subjects in his province. I asked him to deliver the letter, to which I
+had appended translations that he might read what I said, and to bear
+in mind that any service he might render would be richly rewarded and
+never forgotten, while he might rely on my word as his well-wisher;
+that a terrible punishment would befall any one who injured a hair of
+the head of a British subject. In addition to this, I wrote letters
+to the Burmese authorities at Tamu, with whom I was on friendly terms,
+begging them, as they valued their lives, and my goodwill, to forward
+the letter to the Woon with all possible speed.
+
+This done, I went to dine with the Chief Commissioner, and when he
+asked if I had received his note, I told him I had acted on it. Feeling
+that I had done all that I could for the best, I took no further steps
+at the time than to issue orders to the Manipuri frontier stations,
+to give all aid requisite to fugitives from Burmah, and to make
+arrangements for their being entertained in Manipur, should they
+arrive in my absence.
+
+I heard afterwards that there was great anxiety in Burmah when it was
+known that I had communicated with our isolated countrymen through the
+Burmese authorities, it being regarded as likely to seal their fate.
+
+I marched to Mao on the Naga Hills frontier with the Chief
+Commissioner, and then returned to Manipur, arriving on the 4th,
+and on the 5th heard from Moreh Tannah that a European was being
+kept a prisoner at Kendat. I wrote at once to the Tamu Phoongyee,
+asking him to use his influence to release him, saying that I was in
+a position to march to his aid in case my letter had no effect.
+
+On December 9th, I heard that all the Europeans at Kendat had been
+murdered, the Queen of Burmah's secretary having arrived with one
+hundred regular troops on a steamer and ordered their execution,
+and that forty of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation's elephants and all
+their native followers had been arrested.
+
+On December 10th, the news of the capture of Mandalay arrived. It gave
+immense satisfaction, and it was said that many of the old people,
+who knew what Burmah was, were so pleased that they could not eat
+their dinners. The Jubraj visited me to offer his congratulations,
+and a salute of thirty-one guns was fired.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+    News from Kendat--Mr. Morgan and his people safe--I determine to
+    march to Moreh Tannah--March to Kendat--Arrive in time to save
+    the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents--Visit of the Woon--Visit
+    to the Woon.
+
+
+On December 17th, I at last received a letter from Mr. A. J. Morgan,
+the chief agent of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation at Kendat,
+acknowledging my letter of November 12th. He told me that three
+Europeans, Messrs. Allan, Roberts and Moncur, had been murdered on the
+River Chindwin by the Queen's Secretary; that he and Messrs. Ruckstuhl
+and Bretto had been protected by the Kendat Woon, and four others by
+the Mengin Woon. He said the Chindwin valley was filling with dacoits,
+i.e., brigands, and that their position was very precarious. I at
+once wrote to the Woon thanking him warmly for the protection he
+had accorded to my fellow-subjects, and sent him a pair of handsome
+double-barrelled guns, one of them a rifle, as a present, also five
+hundred rupees, which I asked him to give to Mr. Morgan.
+
+Feeling certain of the dangerous position of the British subjects at
+Kendat, if they were surrounded by disbanded soldiery who had turned
+brigands, I determined to march to the frontier, so as to be ready
+to give aid, if necessary. I accordingly asked the Maharajah to lend
+me 400 Manipuris, and 500 Kukis, and one mountain gun. With these,
+and fifty men of my escort of the 4th Bengal Infantry, under Subadar
+Baluk Ram Chowby, I marched off on December 19th.
+
+My escort consisted of sixty men of all ranks, but I weeded out
+ten as not likely to stand the severe marches we might have to
+undertake. I then paraded the remainder and addressed them, saying
+that any man who felt himself unfit for service might fall out, and I
+should think none the worse of him. All stood fast, and then I said,
+"Now, I will not take you, unless you promise me not to fall sick,
+till you have escorted me back safely to Manipur." The men gave a
+shout of acclamation, and I gave the order to march, and never had I
+better, braver or more devoted men under me, or men who bore hardship
+and want of all the little comforts of life more cheerfully.
+
+We reached Moreh Tannah, where I had intended to halt and watch events,
+on December 23rd, and there I received a letter from Mr. Morgan,
+who described the state of things at Kendat as daily getting worse,
+and expressed his conviction that if the dacoits reached Kendat,
+the Woon would be unable to hold his own; he therefore hoped I might
+be able to afford them the aid they so sorely needed, as, unless a
+force marched to their assistance speedily, their lives would not
+be safe. On hearing this, I determined to march for Kendat at once,
+and by the rapidity of our movements overcome all resistance; indeed,
+not to allow the Burmese time to think of it. Accordingly we marched
+to Tamu, where the authorities at once submitted, and I declared the
+country annexed, and reappointed the old officials, pending further
+orders, promising my protection to all classes, and calling on the
+people to complain at once if any of my followers injured them.
+
+All this done, we marched to Mamo, some miles beyond Tamu, where
+we halted in the rice fields attached to the village which was very
+strongly stockaded. My camp was at once filled with men, women and
+children, all disposed to be friendly and all willing to receive
+little presents. It was a pretty feature of the Kubo valley, as of
+Upper Burmah generally, and as in Assam formerly, that immediately
+on leaving the village cultivation you plunged at once into forest.
+
+My party was not so numerous as I could have wished. The Minister,
+Bularam Singh, accompanied me, but the nine hundred men all told,
+that I had asked for, were not there, and the supply of provisions
+was scanty. I made all my escort take ten days' food per man, with
+orders not to touch it, without my direct permission, and I procured
+supplies wherever I could, as we went along. I also took a large
+supply of money.
+
+As Bularam Singh was holding the appointment formerly held by Thangal,
+he had not the knowledge to help him in all petty details that the
+other would have had. However, realising more keenly than ever from
+my experience at the relief of Kohima, the extreme value of time,
+and of rapid strokes, I pushed on at all hazards, trusting to have
+my numbers made up.
+
+I had a few first-rate Manipuri officers with me, and my old orderlies,
+Sowpa, Thutot, and Sundha. I took my excellent hospital assistant,
+Lachman Parshad, and my Manipuri secretary and interpreter, Chumder
+Singh, and most of my old chuprassies, who were invaluable. My head
+clerk, Rusni Lall Coondoo, was unfortunately on leave, marrying his
+daughter, and I greatly missed him.
+
+On the morning of December 24th, we started from Mamo, determined
+to reach Kendat next day, though the Burmese said it was absolutely
+impossible to do it. I had with me my escort of fifty men of the 4th
+B.I., and between three hundred and four hundred Manipuris, the Kukis
+not having arrived. The old road had been disused, and our path was
+a perfect zigzag. We halted long after sunset at Pendowa on a small
+stream, the Nunparoo. The mountain gun did not arrive, and half our
+force was not up till midnight. When all the coolies had arrived,
+I told them that if we reached Kendat next evening, they should have
+buffalo to eat.
+
+The country through which we had passed was not naturally a difficult
+one, but there had been no attempt to make it good, and in places it
+was very bad, all the more so from the unnecessary number of times that
+we crossed the same river. I was much interested to see large numbers
+of bullock carts in the villages, such not being used in Manipur.
+
+Next morning, we started early, and soon began to ascend the Ungocking
+hills. This seemed endless, one range succeeded another, here and there
+we saw coal cropping out of the hillside. After about 12.30 P.M., the
+path was alternately along the bed of a stream and over high ridges,
+one of those meaningless, winding roads that seem made expressly to
+irritate people with no time to spare. At last, in the far distance,
+we saw a scarped hill, that was said to be close to Kendat, and cheered
+by the sight, we pressed on, but it was hours before we reached the
+goal. About 4 P.M., I met a Burmese, who spoke Hindoostani, and gave
+me a letter from Mr. Morgan, telling me that he and his party were all
+well, and earnestly longing for our arrival. The man told me that he
+was the "Hathee Jemadar," i.e., the man in charge of the elephants,
+and he accompanied us.
+
+At last, just after sunset we reached the Chindwin river, even then,
+in the dry season, six hundred yards wide. We gave a loud cheer and
+hoisted the Union Jack; and the "Hathee Jemadar" went over to tell
+the Europeans we had come to save, of our arrival. All my escort and
+most of the Manipuris marched in with me; every man had done his best
+and hearty were the congratulations that passed between us.
+
+We had marched sixty-five miles over a terribly rough country, the
+last thirty being quite impassable for even laden mules, in thirty
+hours. A havildar of the 4th said, "Sahib, is not our march one of
+the greatest on record?" I told him that it was. It was pleasant to
+think that we had arrived on Christmas Day. How little my children
+in England realised the way I was employed.
+
+In less than an hour Mr. Morgan, who had seen our arrival, came over
+accompanied by Messrs. Ruckstuhl and Bretto, his subordinates, all
+dressed in Burmese costume, everything they had having been plundered
+in the Woon's absence. Mr. Morgan brought over a message from the
+Woon to me, saying that he submitted to my authority, and would come
+over to-morrow, and tender his formal submission.
+
+Next day he appeared with Mr. Morgan and made his submission. He
+was a dignified old man, with a pleasant face expressive of much
+character. I thanked him on behalf of Government for his services in
+protecting British subjects, and told him that, while assuming charge
+of the country on the part of the British Government, I wished him
+to remain in office, and conduct the administration pending definite
+instructions. I told him that I expected him to maintain order,
+and quiet down the country, and promised him any assistance which he
+might require to aid him in the endeavour.
+
+After this, I set to work to secure supplies with Mr. Morgan's aid,
+so as to be ready for any emergency, and then crossed the river and
+called on the Woon and inspected the stockade, a huge enclosure, 420
+yards long and 163 wide, with a wall of solid teak logs, 18 feet high,
+and none less than a foot square, with strong heavy gates. I returned
+to my camp before nightfall, and the mountain gun arrived under the
+escort of Gour Duan Subadar. Next day, I heard that the Mengin Woon
+had absconded, finding his position untenable.
+
+Had I had a trained levy at my disposal, as would have been the case
+had my advice been followed, I could have easily sent a force to
+occupy Mengin, and might indeed have marched to Mandalay. As it was,
+commanding only irregulars, my position was one of daily anxiety.
+
+The site of Kendat was very picturesque, situated on the high left
+bank of the Chindwin, up and down which a view of many miles is
+obtained, the reach being there a long one. The stockade contained
+the greater part of the official residences, and a good proportion of
+the inhabitants, but there were many houses outside, and temples and
+phoongyes' residences. Below the town was a large Manipuri village,
+inhabited by the descendants of captives taken in the war of 1819-25.
+
+In the rainy season, when the Chindwin is at its height, and 1200 yards
+wide, with the long ranges of the Manipuri Hills in the background,
+the view is said to be very beautiful. For many miles round Kendat,
+to the east of the Chindwin, the country is flat, but studded here
+and there with strange-looking hills with scarped sides, that rise
+abruptly out of the plains, calling to mind the hill-forests of Central
+India. Kendat was well supplied with boats, many of them being most
+elaborately carved.
+
+It was a great misfortune that none of the men of my escort understood
+the management of boats, a most useful accomplishment on the eastern
+side of India, where rivers abound, and one in which the men of the
+old Assam regiments used to be proficient.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+    People fairly friendly--Crucifixion--Carelessness of Manipuris--I
+    cross the Chindwin--Recross the Chindwin--Collect provisions--Erect
+    stockades and fortify our position--Revolt at Kendat--We assume
+    the offensive--Capture boats and small stockades--Revolt put
+    down--Woon and Ruckstuhl rescued--Steamers arrive and leave.
+
+
+The Burmese were fairly friendly to us, though they did not display
+any love for the Manipuris, and the latter showed rather too plainly
+that they thought the tables were turned, and that they now had the
+upper hand of the Burmese.
+
+In many of the villages along our line of route in the Kubo valley,
+we had observed crosses ready for the crucifixion of malefactors,
+especially dacoits. These were also to be seen here and there, on
+the banks of the river at Kendat, but the Woon afterwards told me
+that he rarely crucified offenders and disliked employing torture;
+indeed he had the reputation of being a merciful old man. However,
+the people at large seemed quite to approve of strong measures, and
+knowing what Burmese dacoits are capable of, I hardly wonder. After
+I left, the man who introduced himself to me as "Hathee Jemadar"
+incautiously surrendered to some dacoits, who first broke the bones
+of his legs and arms inch by inch, and then ripped him up!
+
+On the 28th December, I crossed the river with my whole force, and
+entrenched myself on the sandbank of the Chindwin. That evening, I
+heard from Mr. Morgan, that there was a strong party opposed to the
+Woon, and greatly dissatisfied with him for having submitted. Troops
+had been expected up the river from the British force at Mandalay, and
+their delay encouraged the Burmese to hold up their heads. Next day,
+December 29th, the air was full of rumours, and some of the Burmese
+Manipuris, I have just alluded to, plied my Manipuris with all sorts
+of stories, of a rising against us, on the part of the Burmese. These
+stories had a great effect on the Manipuris, and they displayed so
+much unsteadiness, and at the same time such gross carelessness,
+that I determined to recross the river. I heard too that six men
+coming to join me, had been killed, and three wounded on the road,
+report said, by Burmese. I laughed at the idea, as I was sure that
+the assailants were wild Chins, as the Burmese would not show their
+hand prematurely. However, the news spread, and served to dishearten
+the men.
+
+On the 30th I transported my whole force to the opposite bank,
+it cost me incredible trouble, and I had to superintend the most
+petty details myself. I sent over a party to construct a stockade
+into which the Manipuris could be penned like a flock of sheep for
+the night and which I could enlarge afterwards, and I insisted on
+the work being finished that day. It was finished, and last of all
+I crossed the river with my escort.
+
+Next day, Mr. Morgan told me that things had quieted down very much
+among the Burmese; we did all in our power to collect provisions, and
+I enlarged the stockade, improving it from day to day, till it at last
+became a commodious and strong defensive building, scientifically
+constructed. I occupied a small stockade on a hillock above it,
+whence I had a good view, and could overlook the Manipuris. I had a
+circle of outlying pickets supplied by the Kuki irregulars with me,
+and these were a perpetual safe-guard against surprise during the
+long dark nights. We cleared the jungle from round our stockade,
+and did all we could to make our position secure.
+
+Still the Manipuris were a constant anxiety, illustrating the
+well-known saying, "Fools rush in, where angels fear to tread." Their
+carelessness was astonishing. I had the utmost difficulty in
+getting them to take the most ordinary precautions. The bravest and
+best-disciplined troops in the world would never think of neglecting
+every rule of warfare in the way that they did. Fire was a constant
+danger, and having no warm clothes, the Manipuris could hardly be
+prevented from lighting fires at night, thereby incurring a double
+danger, viz., that of setting fire to the stockade, also lighting
+up our position and enabling an enemy to fire at us. I was as a rule
+eighteen or nineteen hours on foot out of the twenty-four, and during
+the five or six allotted to sleep, I generally got up three times,
+to see that all was right.
+
+Provisions began to come in, and on the last day of the year, I sent
+off 400 coolies to Moreh Tannah for provisions, so as to reduce the
+useless mouths, and to lessen the danger from fire. I rebuilt all
+the huts of green grass, as less inflammable than dry materials.
+
+On January 1st, evil rumours were again afloat, and I asked the Woon if
+he were sure of his position. He replied that he was, and had perfect
+confidence that he could keep every one in hand. However, I went on
+collecting provisions, and while hoping for the arrival of the troops
+expected up the river, prepared for any eventuality. On January 3rd,
+large supplies of rice came in. The Issekai, an officer holding the
+rank of major, came twice to see me, and all seemed well. Mr. Morgan
+was with me all day helping with the rice sellers, but left about 4
+P.M. About an hour afterwards, he reappeared with Mr. Bretto, saying
+that they had been shut out of the stockade, but that Mr. Ruckstuhl
+was detained there. They suspected a rising throughout the country,
+as a rumour had just been spread that a Royal prince was about to
+arrive at Kendat with 3000 men.
+
+This was bad news, and I begged Messrs. Morgan and Bretto to stay the
+night with me. There was no time to be lost; I felt certain that the
+country had risen, and that in a few hours our communications would
+be cut, so I wrote to Manipur asking the Maharajah to send me 1000
+men under Thangal Major at once to Moreh Tannah, to await events,
+and 500 to join me at Kendat, also a good supply of provisions. I
+telegraphed also to Government saying what had happened, and that
+I had taken every precaution, and that they might rely on my doing
+all that man could. I asked for no help, feeling that, if, with my
+present resources, I could not retrieve my position, I should soon
+be past help. I also wrote a few lines home, explaining matters in
+case I was killed, with a few last words to my children.
+
+These letters I sent off by swift and trusty men well armed, with
+orders to push on with all speed. Having done this, I prepared for
+a life-and-death struggle next day.
+
+As the morning broke and the heavy mist began to rise earlier
+than usual, we speedily saw the changed aspect of affairs. We
+had secured two boats under a guard the night before, but all
+besides had been taken from our side of the river. All the people
+had left a neighbouring village, but just below us we saw one boat
+after another leaving, heavily laden with the inhabitants and their
+portable goods. The opposite sandbank too, was occupied in force by
+the Burmese, who held our former entrenchment, and one or two small
+stockades. By this time also the country in our rear had risen, so
+we were completely cut off. The opposite bank was crowded with large
+boats, giving every opportunity to the enemy to send a strong party
+over to attack us by night, were he so disposed.
+
+Immediate action was necessary, if only to save the British subjects,
+and the faithful Woon who had suffered in our cause. The good old
+Minister, Bularam Singh, quite lost his nerve, and begged and implored
+me to make terms and retreat, as the only means of saving ourselves. I
+told him that my very children and friends would despise me, if I,
+for a moment, contemplated such a course, and that there was nothing
+for it but to fight it out.
+
+"Which man should you respect most?" I said, "one who cringed at
+your feet, or one who boldly struck you?" "The man who struck me," he
+replied. "Exactly so," I said; "and it is the same with the Burmese. I
+intend to strike a hard blow."
+
+I had an ultimatum written in Burmese, demanding the surrender of the
+Woon, and his officers, and of all British subjects within two hours,
+under pain of my attacking the stockade; this I did, to run as little
+risk of injury to the captives, as possible. I had the ultimatum tied
+to a bamboo, and sent in a boat to a shallow part of the river, and I
+called to a Burmese to take it. This was done. I looked at my watch,
+and when the time expired, opened fire on the stockade.
+
+For the first time in my life, I laid a gun. I judged the distance from
+the high bank where we stood, to the great stockade, to be 1250 yards,
+and the first shell went over it. I lessened the range by 50 yards,
+and again fired, and this time struck the stockade fair and well. We
+saw and heard the shell explode, and our men raised a loud shout of
+triumph. This little success gave the Manipuris renewed confidence. I
+lined our bank with picked shots of the 4th B.I., and under cover of
+these and the gun, sent two parties across in the boats, with orders
+to attack and destroy all the small stockades, and to capture some
+boats to convey more of our men across, and to burn all the rest,
+so as to prevent the enemy assuming the offensive.
+
+Mr. Morgan, eager for the fray, went as a volunteer and assumed the
+natural position of leader. We kept up the fight all day. Shot after
+shot struck the great stockade, all the small ones were captured and
+burned, the enemy driven from the shore and every boat within sight
+either brought over to our side, or sent burning down the river.
+
+Meanwhile, the Burmese had not been entirely passive, they had opened
+an artillery fire on us, and one or one-and-a-half-pound shots
+began to fall on our side. Old Bularam Singh walked up and down,
+notwithstanding this, with the greatest indifference, having now
+recovered his spirits, and behaved very well.
+
+By sunset, nothing remained to be captured but the great stockade,
+and many were the volunteers, both Hindoostanis and Manipuris who
+begged to be allowed to cross once more and attack it. However,
+I would not consent, only two men, Messrs. Morgan and Bretto, knew
+all the turns and windings of the place, and one false move might
+convert our success into a disaster. All the same, I felt terribly
+anxious as to the fate of the Woon and of the British subjects.
+
+I went to my hut in the evening, feeling that we had done all we
+could. As I passed through the stockade, I was surprised to see the
+clever way in which the coolies remaining with us had strengthened it,
+by digging deep trenches sufficient to afford a man perfect protection
+against rifle fire, even without the stockade.
+
+I rose early on January 5th, after an anxious night, having given
+orders for a party to be ready to cross the river with me, to attack
+the great stockade; but, just as I left my hut to make a start,
+I was met by Mr. Ruckstuhl with irons on his ankles--he had got rid
+of the connecting bars--who told me that it had been evacuated. The
+facts I learned were as follows.
+
+On the evening of January 3rd, incited by the near approach of three
+thousand men and the promised support of the Tsawbwas of Thoungdoot,
+Wuntha, Kubo, and six other districts, the bad spirits in the town rose
+against the Woon, and put him and his family and chief officials, with
+Mr. Ruckstuhl, in irons. It was only by a mistake that Messrs. Morgan
+and Bretto were shut out of the stockade and not arrested.
+
+When my ultimatum arrived, the Burmese laughed at the idea of my
+doing anything, and when our fire opened on them they were just about
+to crucify the Woon and Ruckstuhl. When, however, our attack began
+to make an impression on them, and shells burst in the stockade,
+especially one in a room where the chief men were deliberating,
+they retreated, leaving their prisoners. Mr. Ruckstuhl had hidden
+under a hedge, and the Woon and his family were taking refuge in a
+Phoongye's house. This was good news and an immense relief to every
+one; we felt we had done our work.
+
+I immediately took a party across the river and rescued the Woon,
+and took possession of the huge stockade, which would have cost us
+many a life to capture, had it been well defended. We took sixteen
+guns and a large number of wall pieces, all said to have been wrested
+from Manipur in former days.
+
+The Woon's house was apparently intact, but empty, and the town
+was deserted. In a house we found a hen on a brood of chickens,
+unmoved apparently by all the firing and commotion. I made over
+the Woon's house to him again, and I established a Manipuri guard
+for his protection. With reference to the guns, I should say that I
+did not take them from the stockade on my first arrival at Kendat,
+not wishing in any way to lower the prestige of the Woon who had
+done us such good service, and who professed himself quite able to
+account for them, and to keep the people in order. As events proved,
+we were quite able to take them when necessary.
+
+Just as we had finished our work, and Mr. Morgan and I were taking
+some food in the afternoon, two steamers came in sight far down the
+Chindwin. These proved to be the party sent to rescue the British
+subjects at Kendat, under Major Campbell, 23rd Madras Infantry;
+and consisted of a company of the Hampshire Regiment and some blue
+jackets, and some of the 23rd Madras Infantry, and great was their
+disappointment to find that the work had been done before they
+arrived. However, had we waited for them, there would have been no
+one to rescue on their arrival.
+
+To my intense surprise, I heard that Kendat was to be abandoned, but
+no arrangements had been made for carrying away the Native British
+subjects. Mr. Morgan would not abandon these and the valuable property
+of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation, and elected together with Mr. Bretto
+to stay with me. I strongly urged Mr. Ruckstuhl (whose brother, one
+of the refugees from Mengin, had been brought up by Major Campbell)
+to leave for Rangoon with the steamers, as I thought, after twice
+narrowly escaping a violent death, he had better run no more risks. He
+took my advice. The steamers left on January 8th.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+    Mischief done by departure of steamers--Determine to establish the
+    Woon at Tamu--The Country quieting down--Recovery of mails--Letter
+    from the Viceroy--Arrive at Manipur--Bad news--I return to
+    Tamu--Night march, to Pot-tha--An engagement--Wounded--Return to
+    Manipur--Farewell--Leave for England.
+
+
+We had gained immense prestige by the vigorous way in which we had
+put down the revolt, and the people from the neighbouring country
+began to come in and make their submission, but the departure of the
+steamers was a great blow to it. Of course, the natives attributed
+it to fear. Had they stayed, all trouble would have been at an end,
+and the country would have quietly settled down. As it was, this
+unfortunate retreat again upset the minds of all.
+
+The Chindwin, and the route to it through Manipur, had not been
+considered when the campaign was decided on. No part of a country
+that it is intended to annex can with safety be neglected, and the
+Chindwin valley was a very important part of Burmah.
+
+As I have said before, a properly organised Manipur Levy would have
+solved all difficulties at the outbreak of war; failing that, a
+force specially devoted to the Chindwin valley, and entering through
+Manipur, and aided by local knowledge acquired during many years
+on that frontier, might have occupied the province of Kendat before
+any time had been given for the spread of lawlessness. It is almost
+incredible that, considering the part taken by Manipur, and troops
+moving through Manipur during the war of 1885-6, showing the immense
+facilities offered by that route, that no inquiry whatever was made
+regarding it before the outbreak of hostilities.
+
+I saw plainly that without the certainty of troops and one steamer at
+least arriving to reinforce us, it would be unwise to attempt to hold
+Kendat so far from our base at Manipur, therefore I made preparations
+for escorting all British subjects and property to Tamu, within
+the Woon's jurisdiction, advising the latter to establish himself
+there for the present, and from that point gradually reconsolidate
+his authority. He greatly approved of the suggestion, and I made
+arrangements with a view to carrying it into effect.
+
+It was not till the 10th of January that any post arrived from
+Manipur. The Kubo valley had risen, it was said, in obedience to
+orders received from the Kule Tsawbwa and a man called the Lay
+Kahiyine Oke, and it was reported that we had been annihilated;
+but the sight of all the captured guns, which I at once sent to
+Manipur, told the people a different tale, and they soon subsided
+and returned to their allegiance. I sent out a party to attack and
+destroy the house of a hostile chief, east of the Chindwin, and it
+was successfully accomplished.
+
+Several letter bags which had been stolen were now given up, and I
+issued proclamations to all the neighbouring chiefs calling on them
+to remain quiet, and keep their people in order.
+
+Two hundred of the troops I had sent for from Manipur, arrived at
+Kendat, and 300 more I ordered to be stationed at different points
+on the road. The 1000 men under Thangal Major were directed by me
+to return to Manipur. Before leaving Kendat, I sent on the Woon,
+with his family and 250 native British subjects, en route to Tamu,
+with a strong escort. The road had been much improved during my
+occupation of Kendat, and was now passable for lightly laden elephants.
+
+I left some Burmese officials at Kendat with orders to report regularly
+to the Woon, and collect taxes due, and having made all arrangements
+that I could for the peace of the country, I quitted it, with the
+remaining portion of my force, on January 14th, encamping at a place
+called Mejong. We reached Tamu on the 17th, where the Woon was well
+received.
+
+I had written to the Thoungdoot (Sumjok) Tsawbwa, asking him to come
+and see me, but he was nervous, and sent his Minister instead. The
+man arrived on the 19th, with a very civil letter from the Tsawbwa,
+making his submission. I explained to him that I should hold his
+master responsible for the good behaviour of his people, and sent
+him to pay his respects to the Woon, which he did. About this time I
+received some very complimentary telegrams from Government, thanking
+me for what I had done; these being followed by an autograph letter
+from the Viceroy, Lord Dufferin.
+
+Being completely worn out with the work and anxiety I had gone through,
+so much so, that I could not sleep without a dose of bromide of
+potassium, I set off for Manipur, to get a little rest, on the 20th
+of January, and reached it, by forced marches, on the 22nd. Mr. Morgan
+came with me, and my escort followed two days after. The men had kept
+their promise, and not one man had "gone sick" for a day, and they
+had always been ready for work; often, since the outbreak on the 3rd
+of January, living for days on rice fresh cut from the enemy's fields
+by the Manipuris.
+
+I left a strong guard of Manipuris in a stockade at Tamu as a help
+to the Woon, and let the Minister Bularam Singh and all the rest of
+the party return with me.
+
+Before leaving Tamu, I handed over one or two men, supposed to
+be rebels, to the Woon, and gave him authority to execute them,
+should he consider it necessary, as an example, saying, however,
+that he must, in that case shoot, hang, or decapitate, as we could
+not allow painful modes of putting to death.
+
+I found, on arrival at Manipur, that another detachment of the 4th
+B.I. had arrived, and I very soon found use for them.
+
+I had hoped to have had some much-needed rest, but on the 24th I
+received a letter from the Woon telling me that two of the leading
+rebels in the outbreak of the 3rd, who had fled towards Wuntho,
+had returned, and were leading about bands of brigands. I heard from
+another source that the men I had delivered into his hands had been
+released on paying heavy fines, and had joined the rebel leaders. The
+Woon had an ample force at his disposal, but, as I saw that another
+storm was brewing, I sent off the new detachment of the 4th, towards
+Tamu, on the 26th, and followed myself (Mr. Morgan having preceded me)
+on the 28th; and on the 30th we marched into Tamu together.
+
+I met the poor old Woon ten miles within the Manipur frontier; he
+had evidently lost his nerve and had fled, the ill-treatment he had
+undergone, and the narrow escape from crucifixion, were too much for
+him. I at once sent him on to Manipur, with orders that he should be
+my guest, and marched on.
+
+As we crossed the frontier, the Burmese left the jungles where they
+had hidden from the dreaded dacoits, and returned with us to their
+villages. Tamu was quiet, the Manipuri guard had stood firm at their
+posts, and held the stockade intact, a work Manipuris are admirably
+fitted for, and thoroughly to be trusted with. My arrival seemed to
+quiet down the valley for many miles, indeed all the inhabitants for
+miles round were by the next day pursuing their ordinary avocations,
+and the only fear was from the dacoits.
+
+On January 31st, at about 6 P.M., I received a report that a party
+of the enemy had hoisted the white flag (the Burmese Royal Standard),
+and taken up their quarters at Pot-tha, a disaffected village twenty
+miles from Tamu. This was an opportunity not to be lost, and I
+prepared to strike a decisive blow. We left Tamu about midnight,
+the force consisting of myself and Mr. Morgan, fifty of the 4th
+B.I., seventy Manipuris, and fifty Kuki irregulars. We had to march
+in single file through the forest, carrying torches to light us,
+and a most picturesque sight it was, the long line winding in and
+out under the tall trees, which the blaze of the torches lighted up,
+producing a very weird effect. We took with us guides from Tamu, and
+marched in deep silence, every now and then passing a village opening,
+though we generally avoided them, if possible.
+
+At last, just after daybreak, we heard the sound of a musket shot;
+our Shan guides said: "This is the place," and instantly evaporated. I
+can use no other term; I saw them one moment, the next they had gone,
+where I know not. We went on, and after a hundred yards, passed
+fortifications just evacuated, and soon after entered the village,
+the enemy retiring before us without firing a shot; we rushed on,
+and searched the houses. I saw the white standard planted outside a
+large house on a platform; I ran up and seized it, close by was a tree
+called in Bengali, "Poppeya," the papaw, I believe, of the West Indies,
+with a soft trunk. A minute after, while I was looking about to see
+if I could observe any of the enemy, a volley was fired, evidently
+intended for me, the royal standard in my hand making me a conspicuous
+mark. I was not struck (probably just at the moment I moved), but
+the tree was, and fell, cut in two by at least twenty musket balls.
+
+I then saw some of the enemy strongly posted, under a house,
+built like all in those parts on strong posts, affording excellent
+cover. I sprang down from the platform, calling to my scattered men to
+follow. One man was ahead of me, and was shot down mortally wounded;
+another minute, and I myself was struck by a shot on the left temple,
+and almost stunned. I was able to rise, but with the blood streaming
+down, not fit to pursue. I called to Mr. Morgan and asked him to head
+a party of the 4th B.I. and clear the village, which was done with
+great gallantry, the men, when they returned, greatly applauding
+Mr. Morgan's courage and dash. Having driven out the enemy who, we
+subsequently ascertained, lost seven killed and twenty-five wounded,
+we set fire to the village and 10,000 maunds of rice stored there,
+i.e., about 360 tons, which, of course, we could not carry away,
+and marched back to Tamil which we reached about nightfall carrying
+our wounded with us. Besides myself, we had one mortally wounded,
+one severely and one slightly. I was able to march back. We took
+three prisoners and heard that the enemy, who did not stop till he
+had crossed the Chindwin, had a force of 400 to 500 men engaged,
+commanded by Boh Moung Schway Le.
+
+On February 6th, all the principal chiefs of the Kubo valley came
+in and made their formal submission to me, promising to remain
+quiet and obey the orders of the Tamu Myo Thugee, whom I appointed
+to administer the valley till further orders. Next day, I made them
+all go to the Pagoda, and swear allegiance to the British Government,
+the oath being most solemnly administered by the Phoongyees. I gave
+definite instructions to all, and urged them to keep the peace,
+and buy, sell and cultivate as usual.
+
+I proclaimed the passes into Manipur open to traders, which gave great
+satisfaction to all, and having satisfied myself that everything
+was quiet I set out for Manipur to consult Dr. Eteson, the Deputy
+Surgeon-General, who was passing through, about my wound. I arrived
+by forced marches on February 9th, and found that the sepoy mortally
+wounded on February 1st, had died on the 8th.
+
+Dr. Eteson urged me to go to England on sick leave, and I very
+reluctantly determined to follow his advice. But, before leaving, I
+had the satisfaction of seeing the whole of the Kubo valley in a state
+of profound peace for a month and a half. Provisions were no longer
+a difficulty. They were freely brought in, and the little luxuries
+that Hindoostani troops require over and above what can be bought on
+the spot, were taken down by traders. So great was the energy of the
+latter, that 2000 buffaloes were exported through Manipur to Cachar
+during this short period, and when I finally bade adieu to my friends
+at Tamu, Mr. Morgan and I both expected that war was at an end, and
+that perfect peace would prevail. It was not our fault that it did not.
+
+Let me here offer a tribute to one who stood by me nobly in the hour
+of need, but who, unfortunately, died of cholera at Kule, after his
+return from well-earned leave in England. Morgan was a thoroughly good
+fellow all round, a devoted servant of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation,
+and one who put their affairs before everything. As gentle and kind
+as he was brave, he was a great favourite with the Burmese, and had
+evidently much influence with them. He was always in favour of mild
+measures, unless strong ones appeared absolutely necessary.
+
+While still in Burmah, I had sent in my despatches to General Sir
+H. Prendergast, K.C.B., who commanded the army of invasion, in which I
+strongly commended to his notice the admirable services of my escort,
+mentioning specially several men whom I thought particularly deserving
+of it, though all had done so well, and shown such devotion to duty
+and soldier-like spirit, that it was a difficult task to select any
+one in particular. General Prendergast forwarded my recommendation
+to the Commander-in-Chief, and it was a great satisfaction to me
+when I heard afterwards that Baluk Ram Chowby, then Subadar Major
+of his Regiment, had received the Order of British India, with the
+title of "Bahadur," and that other decorations and promotions had
+been bestowed. The detachment of the gallant 4th Bengal Infantry,
+took with them, as trophies to their regiment, a standard they had
+captured, and also one of the sixteen guns taken at Kendat.
+
+I left the old Woon at Manipur, having strongly recommended him to the
+favour of Government. He stood by our people in a dark hour, and saved
+them from torture and death. He was of high family, and had fought
+against us in 1852. He had the air of a thorough gentleman, and was,
+with all his family, most amiable in conversation and demeanour.
+
+Before leaving, I paid one last visit to Kang-joop-kool and saw my
+child's grave, [37] and the peaceful scenery and lovely views over
+the hills and the broad valley, thinking of the past and its many
+memories connected with the place. I paid my last visit to the Rajah,
+when I told him that I had strongly urged the restoration to him of
+his old possession, the Kubo valley. I visited all the familiar spots
+round the capital. I said good-bye to old Thangal, Bularam Singh,
+and all my old followers, and, on the 19th of March, bade adieu to
+Manipur, which I felt I had raised out of the mire of a bad reputation.
+
+I left it as it had been of yore, a faithful and devoted, though
+humble, ally of the British Government to whom it had done transcendent
+service. Alas! little did I think of the fate that would befall it
+before a few short years had passed by.
+
+My escort turned out to salute me as I left the Residency gate,
+and I gave them an address, thanking them for their services. Then
+the Subadar Baluk Ram Chowby insisted on their accompanying me for
+some distance. When time for them to return, he halted his party,
+drew them in line by the side of the road, and presented arms, and as
+they did it they gave a loud shout of "Colonel Sahib Bahadur ke jye,"
+i.e. "Vive Monsieur le Colonel Victorieux;" we have no equivalent for
+it in English. My heart was too heavy to say much; I said a few words,
+and we parted.
+
+As I crossed the summit of the Lai-metol range I gave a last look at
+the valley, and saw it no more.
+
+I passed through Shillong, where I was hospitably entertained by the
+Chief Commissioner, Mr. Ward, and on reaching Calcutta received a
+command to visit Lord Dufferin at Benares. He received me very kindly,
+and under his roof I spent a most enjoyable day. I left Bombay on the
+9th of April, and reached home on the 28th, thus practically finishing
+my active Indian career, after nearly twenty-eight years' service.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+    The Events of 1890 and 1891.
+
+
+When I first began this book it was my intention to have given a
+connected account of the Palace Revolution of September 1890, and
+that of 1891, against the British Government. Being probably the only
+living person in full possession of the whole facts connected with
+the startling events that then took place, and the circumstances that
+led up to them, and having, moreover, a strong conviction that it
+is best for all parties that the truth should be known, I felt that
+a fair and impartial statement could do no harm, and might act as
+a warning. Further reflection has led me to alter my determination,
+and to ask myself the question, "Cui bono?" The Government of India
+has shown no desire to make more disclosures than necessary, and it
+is not for me, a loyal old servant, to lift the veil.
+
+
+        "Let the dead past bury its dead."
+
+
+However much, therefore, I may wish to see the right horse saddled, I
+shall for the present, at any rate, avoid criticism as far as possible,
+and confine myself to a few general remarks.
+
+Nothing that I can say will undo the past, and all that remains is
+to hope for the future.
+
+After I left Manipur fresh disturbances broke out in the Kubo valley,
+where I had left all peaceful, prosperous, and contented, and a
+considerable strain was put on the resources of Manipur. Had I been
+ordered to return I would gladly have done so, but my health was
+too bad to make it advisable for me to volunteer my services. [38]
+I regret that I did not, as I might in that case have again urged
+the claims of Manipur to have the Kubo valley restored to her, as she
+had a right to expect that it would be; substantial hopes having been
+on at least one occasion held out to her, and her many good services
+and constant loyalty entitling her to consideration.
+
+However, it was not to be; and in the summer of 1886 another misfortune
+befell her, in the death of Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. Perhaps,
+like his father, Ghumbeer Singh, he was happy in the hour of his
+death, as he did not live to see the disgrace of his country, and
+the ingratitude of our Government to his family.
+
+Now was the grand opportunity for the Government and an able Political
+Agent to step in and make the many needful reforms, and introduce
+necessary changes, and instil a more modern spirit in keeping with the
+times, into the institutions of the country. Did we take advantage of
+it? Of course we did not; but, true to our happy-go-lucky traditions,
+let one precious opportunity after another pass by unheeded. Year after
+year during my period of office had I struggled hard, and carried
+on a never-ending fight for influence and prestige, with the strong
+and capable old Chandra Kirtee Singh, gaining ground steadily; but
+realising that, while I worked, the full advantage would be reaped
+by that one of my successors who might chance to be in office when
+my old friend closed his eventful life. At such a time, in addition
+to the result of my labours, a weaker occupant of the throne would
+afford many opportunities such as were not vouchsafed to me, and now
+the time had arrived when we might have worked unimpeded for the good
+of all classes.
+
+Soor Chandra Singh, the former Jubraj, or heir apparent, succeeded
+his father, a good, amiable man, with plenty of ability, but very
+weak. He was loyal to the British Government, and had on several
+occasions given strong proof of it, and he was much respected by his
+own people. Had he been taken in hand properly all would have been
+well, but the Government of India seems never to have realised that
+excessive care and caution were necessary. The records of the past
+plainly showed that the appointment of a Political Agent was always
+a difficult one to fill satisfactorily, but no pains seem to have
+been at any time taken to find a suitable man; if one happened to be
+appointed, it was a matter of chance, and the post seems generally
+to have been put up to a kind of Dutch auction. On one occasion I
+believe that an officer, who was at the time doing well, and liked
+the place, was taken away, and another, who did not wish to go,
+sent up, to die within a month of a long-standing complaint. For all
+this, of course the Foreign Office must be held responsible, as it
+had a long traditional knowledge of Manipur; and though its powers
+were delegated to the Chief Commissioner of Assam, it should have
+ascertained that that officer was capable of making a good selection,
+and had an officer under him fit for the appointment. The work may not
+have been of a nature requiring the very highest class of intellect,
+but it certainly did require a rather rare combination of qualities,
+together with one indispensable to make a good officer, namely,
+a real love for the work, the country, and the people. My immediate
+successor had these latter qualities, but he died of wounds received
+within six weeks of my leaving. [39]
+
+It is to be regretted, also, that the Government of India acts so much
+on the principle that the private claims of some of its servants should
+be considered before the claims of the State generally, and the people
+over whom they are put, in particular. It seems to be thought that
+the great object, in many cases, is to secure a certain amount of pay
+to an individual, quite irrespective of his qualifications, rather
+than to seek out an officer in every way competent to administer
+a great province, and satisfy the requirements of its people. I
+say this especially with reference to Assam. Few provinces of India
+require more special qualities in its ruler, containing, as it does,
+many races of different grades of civilisation; the situation being
+further complicated by the presence of a large European population of
+tea-planters. These, by their energy and the judicious application of a
+large amount of capital, have raised it to a great pitch of prosperity,
+and they naturally require to be dealt with in a different way to
+their less civilised native fellow-subjects.
+
+An officer may be an admirable accountant, or very well able to
+decide between two litigants, or, may be, to look after stamps and
+stationery; but without special administrative experience, or those
+abilities which enable a genius to grasp any subject he takes up,
+he cannot be considered fit to be trusted with the government of a
+great and flourishing province. His claims as regards pay should not
+be allowed to weigh at all with the Government of India; it is unjust
+to the people, and would be cheaper to give an enhanced pension than
+ruin a province. Yet it cannot be denied that the considerations
+I have referred to, do prevail, and that the Manipur disaster was,
+in a great measure, due to the system, and that with proper care it
+could never have happened.
+
+When I was in Manipur no European could enter the state without
+obtaining the permission of the Durbar through the Political Agent, and
+the Maharajah, very wisely, did his utmost to discourage such visitors,
+unless they were friends of the latter. Orchid collectors, and such
+like, were rigorously excluded, wisely, again I say, considering the
+havoc wrought by selfish traders with these lovely denizens of the
+forests of Manipur and Burmah, and when the Burmese war broke out,
+very few were those of our countrymen who had visited the interesting
+little state. As for myself I quite sympathised with the Maharajah and
+I even said a word on behalf of the Sungai (swamp deer) peculiar to
+Manipur and Burmah, and advised him to preserve it strictly. I fear it
+must be extinct in Manipur by this time. The Burmese war changed all
+this; troops poured through the country, and European officers were
+constantly passing to and fro, much to the annoyance of the Durbar. Of
+course, a stay-at-home Englishman will hardly understand this, but to
+anyone knowing natives of India well, it is self-evident, a European
+cannot go through a state like Manipur where suspicion reigns rampant,
+and where people are wedded to their own peculiar ways, without causing
+a great deal of trouble. All sorts of things have to be provided for
+him, and though he pays liberally, some one suffers. The presence
+of one or two Europeans constantly moving about would no doubt in
+itself be a source of annoyance to the high officials of Manipur,
+who would always suspect them of making enquiries with a view to an
+unfavourable report to Government. All natives of India are suspicious,
+and this remark applies with tenfold force to Manipuris.
+
+It cannot, I fear, be denied, that as a race we are a little careless
+of the feelings of others. It is possibly due in a great measure
+to our insularity; but, whatever be the cause, it is an undesirable
+quality to possess. With a regiment of Native Infantry stationed at
+Langthabal to support our authority, our prestige ought to have rapidly
+increased; apparently the reverse was the case, and from time to time
+incidents occurred, which indicated how events were drifting. On one
+occasion some sepoys of the Political Agent's escort were hustled
+and beaten by some Manipuris at a public festival, and on another the
+man carrying the Government mail bag between Imphal and Langthabal,
+was stopped and robbed of the mails. Everything seemed to show that
+our position was not what it had been. In former days such things
+could not have happened.
+
+Kotwal Koireng had always been a bad character, and had for years
+been under a cloud. Had I remained in Manipur I should have turned
+him out when the Maharajah his father died, and reported the matter
+to Government. He was allowed to remain, and proved the ruin of
+the state. His blood-thirsty nature soon showed itself, and he
+half-roasted two men after a most cruel flogging, the Maharajah
+was asked to turn him out of the state, and would probably have
+consented, but just at the time a European sergeant shot a cow, the
+sacred animal of the Hindoos, an outrage far exceeding any that our
+imagination can paint, and the Rajah in his wrath flatly refused to
+punish his brother, while such a fearful crime as cow killing, was
+allowed to pass unnoticed. Of course the last was an untoward event,
+that should never have occurred. We ought not to allow uncultured
+Europeans likely to be careless of native feeling and susceptibilities
+to enter a state so full of prejudice and suspicion as Manipur.
+
+Thus events followed one another in rapid succession, signs every
+now and then appearing which showed that all was not as quiet as
+it seemed. I heard from time to time things that made me uneasy,
+as I gathered that Kotwal Koireng, now become Senaputtee or
+Commander-in-Chief, had much power and influence, and I felt sure
+that he would soon make an attempt to oust his brother, the Maharajah.
+
+At last the attempt was made. In September, 1890, the Maharajah Soor
+Chandra Singh was attacked in his palace at night, and driven out. He
+fled to Cachar and having petitioned the Government of India for
+his restoration, proceeded to Calcutta. The case was a simple one,
+a palace revolution had occurred and our nominee whose succession
+and whose throne we had guaranteed, had been deposed. The course to
+be adopted by Government was as clear as the day, Soor Chandra Singh
+should have been restored at once and the usurper severely punished
+for insulting the majesty of the British Government. Nothing of the
+kind was done. It was decided, on what grounds I know not, to break
+our pledged word; the Maharajah was to be exiled with a pittance for
+his support; his stupid boorish brother who had been set up as puppet
+by the Senaputtee was to be Rajah; while the evil genius of Manipur,
+the treacherous Senaputtee, was to be exiled. The Government of India
+then ordered the Chief Commissioner of Assam to proceed to Manipur
+and carry out their decision, including the Senaputtee's arrest.
+
+It is difficult to say which showed the greatest want of wisdom,
+the Government in issuing such an order, or the Chief Commissioner
+in accepting such a mission, quite derogatory to one of such high
+rank. We all know how it ended. The less said about it the better,
+it reflects no credit on us. [40]
+
+With one or two things, however, I am concerned, and one of these
+is the sentence on Thangal Major, or General as he was called; in
+the correspondence usually ignorantly referred to, as "The Thangal
+General," a misnomer, Thangal being a name and not a title. This old
+man seventy-four years of age had long almost retired into private
+life. He was a devoted follower of Soor Chandra Singh, and hated
+the Senaputtee whose evil influence he always feared would wreck
+Manipur. This probably made the latter recall him to public life, so
+as to keep him under his eye; anyhow, he was by force of circumstances
+obliged, however unwillingly, to act as a loyal subject of his own
+de facto chief.
+
+I have said so much about the old man, that his character will be
+well understood. He was a strong, able, unscrupulous man, not likely
+to stick at trifles, and, like most Asiatics of his type, capable
+of anything. This does not, however, mean that he was worse than his
+neighbours, our characters are made by our surroundings, and in Manipur
+the surroundings are not of an elevating nature. Thangal was in many
+ways kind hearted, in others ruthless, and for the moment cruel,
+his wrath flared up and, except when kept aglow for policy's sake,
+soon burned itself out.
+
+When first I heard of the outbreak I made two predictions, both proved
+to be true. One of these was that, whoever was guilty, Thangal Major
+would be accused. I never did think him guilty by premeditation,
+but I knew that, as for so long a time he was the strong head of
+the executive, he was not loved, and that to save the Senaputtee,
+whom I of course at once pitched upon as the "fons et origo" of the
+rebellion, and who like all of the blood royal was looked upon as
+semi-divine, he would be accused. I read the evidence published,
+which I can quite understand appeared conclusive to the tribunal
+before which he was tried; reading between the lines, however, with a
+thorough knowledge of Manipur as I was able to do, it gave me quite a
+different impression. Knowing the old man so intimately as I did, his
+way of talking and his way of acting, I am convinced that he was in no
+way a willing accessory to the rebellion, that he in no way connived
+at the invitation to our officers to enter the palace at night, and
+further that he never suggested or consented to their murder! The
+whole proceeding was so totally opposed to his policy that he would
+never have sanctioned such an act of folly, to say the least. The
+Senaputtee richly deserved all he got and more. An unscrupulous and
+selfish butcher by nature he played his cards badly and when he lost,
+determined to involve his whole family and loyal dependents in the ruin
+which his own insensate folly had brought on him. I quite acknowledge
+old Thangal's many faults, but I also remember his good qualities,
+and shall ever regret that he came to such an untimely end.
+
+As regards the disposition of the throne I have a word to
+say. Recognising as I do the necessity of maintaining the firmness of
+our rule and prestige to the utmost, a rule that is of incalculable
+benefit to millions, I quite approved of a heavy punishment being
+exacted as a terrible warning to all time, when we re-conquered
+Manipur. It cannot be denied that we showed unseemly want of nerve when
+the news of the disaster arrived. There was no necessity to place Assam
+under a military ruler, nor was there any need for such a formidable
+muster of troops, at a vast expenditure of money and suffering, to
+retrieve a disaster brought about by such an extraordinary want of
+courage, nerve, forethought and common-sense. [41] Our position in
+Manipur had never been a dangerous one, and even after the murder
+of the Chief Commissioner's party the troops in the Residency might
+easily have held their own till daybreak, when all opposition would
+have collapsed, and the rebels would have fled, leaving our people
+masters of the situation.
+
+I have expressed my opinion as to the mistake we made in not restoring
+the Rajah before the outbreak of March, and now I ask the question,
+why, after the rebellion was put down, we did not do our best to
+repair the evil by restoring Soor Chandra Singh to his own? He,
+or his infant son, might have been restored, and have been kept in
+a state of tutelage as long as necessary, and good government would
+have been secured and our pledge to Chandra Kirtee Singh have been
+maintained intact. Instead of this, an obscure child, a descendant not
+of Ghumbeer Singh, but of Nur Singh, was selected, and the old line cut
+off from the succession, and yet three generations had been faithful
+to us. Ghumbeer Singh, Chandra Kirtee Singh, and Soor Chandra Singh
+all served us loyally, and yet we suffered the last to die of a broken
+heart in exile. Well might he exclaim, "And is this the reward for so
+many years' service!" For my part I say emphatically, let us beware,
+we have not heard the last of Manipur!
+
+My sense of right and justice make me record facts as they strike me,
+and yet I cannot help acknowledging as I do so, that the Government
+of India is the best government in the world. When has India been
+so governed, and what country in Europe has such an able and just
+administration? Surrounded by difficulties, material, financial and
+political, badgered by ignorant members of the House of Commons,
+for ever asking foolish questions and moving foolish resolutions;
+the stately bureaucracy plods steadily on with one object in view,
+the good of the people. If at times it makes mistakes, who does
+not? The greatest General is he who makes fewest mistakes, and,
+judged by this standard alone, the Government of India has the first
+rank among governing bodies. It has, however, a title to honour which
+no one can assail. It is the only instance in history of a body of
+foreigners who govern an Empire, not for their own benefit, but for
+the benefit of the races committed by Providence to their charge. May
+Providence long watch over it!
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+
+[1] Resolution. Political Department, No. 87, 1872.
+
+[2] Birmingham Daily Post, June 15, 1895.
+
+[3] Printed official reports.
+
+[4] One of the witnesses at the trial of the Regent and Senaputtee of
+Manipur, in 1891, stated that Mr. Quinton was partly induced to enter
+the palace from which he never emerged alive, by the Manipuris saying,
+"Are you not our deity?"--Ed.
+
+[5] The Assam Administration Report of 1877-8 writes of it as
+"notoriously unhealthy, and it had long been proposed to move the
+troops to a higher and less feverish spot."--Ed.
+
+[6] When I first went to Assam almost all elephant-catching was done
+by noosing.
+
+[7] The country bordering on the Bhootan Dooars in the Ringpore
+district.
+
+[8] See subsequent sketch of Naga tribes in Chapter III.
+
+[9] Sir James (then Lieut.) Johnstone headed a party to clear an
+Assamese village from a panther that had killed several natives and was
+terrifying the district. It retreated into a house which he ordered
+to be pulled down, and as his men were thus engaged it sprang from a
+window on to his shoulder. With his other arm--the left--he fired at it
+behind his back and wounded it sufficiently to make it loose its hold,
+and rush off into the jungle, where it was killed in the course of the
+afternoon. His arm was terribly injured, and he always considered that
+he owed complete recovery of the use of it to the kindness and skill
+of an English medical friend who came from a great distance to attend
+him. Every one else who was wounded by the same panther died.--Ed.
+
+[10] Captain Butler was struck by a spear from a Naga ambuscade,
+near the village of Pangti in the Naga Hills on December 25, 1876. He
+died on January 7. He had held the appointment of Political Agent
+for seven years, and was the son of Colonel Butler, the author of
+'Scenes in Assam' and 'A Sketch in Assam,' the earliest accounts of
+that eastern border.--Ed.
+
+[11] "The influence exercised by Colonel McCulloch as a political
+agent at Manipur was most beneficial," wrote the Times, April 1, 1891,
+"and since his time no one has been more successful than Colonel
+Johnstone, who took charge in 1877, and rendered conspicuous service
+by raising the siege of Kohima by the Nagas in 1879."--Ed.
+
+[12] As Assist-sup. of the tributary Mehals, Sir James (then
+Lieutenant) Johnstone endowed schools at Keonjhur and presented the
+Government with some land he had bought for the purpose. When the
+Rajah, during whose minority he had managed the affairs of Keonjhur
+as political officer, came of age, the agency was abolished for
+economy.--Ed.
+
+[13] I rewarded Kurum, and he distinguished himself later on.
+
+[14] The name means beautiful garden.--Ed.
+
+[15] Tannah means outpost.--Ed.
+
+[16] Probably a corruption of Khatyra.
+
+[17] I.e. Unclean.
+
+[18] Mentioned frequently later on. In August, 1891, he was a
+fugitive from the British Government, hiding himself on the Chinese
+frontier.--Ed.
+
+[19] Here a British native regiment was stationed, after Sir
+J. Johnstone's retirement, but some time before the troubles of
+1891.--Ed.
+
+[20] Quoted by kind permission of editor from my article in Nineteenth
+Century.
+
+[21] Quoted by kind permission of editor from my article in Nineteenth
+Century.
+
+[22] It will be seen later on that this rumour was not correct.--Ed.
+
+[23] A different place from Konoma.--Ed.
+
+[24] A Sikh.--Ed.
+
+[25] The Jubraj, who afterwards reigned as the Maharajah Soor Chandra
+Singh, died in exile; Kotwal Koireng and Thangal Major were hanged in
+August, 1891, by order of the sentence passed upon them for resisting
+the British Government.--Ed.
+
+[26] In 1891, the Jubraj, then the ex-Maharajah, brought forward
+this fact in his appeal to the British Government, as a reason for
+his restoration.--Ed.
+
+[27] The savage mode in which the Nagas conduct their warfare is
+vividly described by a correspondent of the Englishman writing from
+Cachar, January 28, 1880, after a raid on the Baladhun Tea Gardens
+by a band of the same tribe as those of Konoma. He ends with "The
+whole was a horribly sickening scene, and a complete wreck; and such
+surely as none but the veriest of devils in human form could have
+perpetrated."--Ed.
+
+[28] The order came in a telegram purporting to be from the Chief
+Commissioner, and by whom really transmitted is a mystery. The
+Deputy-Assistant Quartermaster General's Report of this Naga Hill
+Expedition states, that after Lieutenant-Colonel Johnstone's Kuki
+levies had attacked Phesama, and killed about two hundred of the enemy
+in consequence of the loss of some of their own men from an assault
+from this village, the Manipuri army performed no other operation in
+this war (except as coolies and bringing in supplies, and in this
+respect they were invaluable). But he adds, "Colonel Johnstone,
+it is understood, was anxious to attack Konoma on his own account
+without waiting for General Nation and the troops." Colonel Johnstone
+explained in a memorandum that no arrangements had been made by the
+military authorities for the carriage of the guns, and that up to
+the evening before the attack on Konoma he had received no request
+for coolies, but foreseeing some neglect of this kind he had kept
+over one hundred reliable Manipuris for the work, and without them
+the guns could not have gone into action. As to the rest of his levy,
+they had lost three hundred men by sickness, and like all irregulars,
+had been injured by the long delay and enforced idleness. They had
+also been already fired upon by our troops in mistake for Nagas,
+and he feared some unfortunate complication if he brought them again
+to the front. But one hundred and fifty at the request of General
+Nation were posted in the valley to intercept fugitives, and they did
+what they were told. Another force was also left to help to protect
+the camp at Suchema. Colonel Johnstone therein states that he felt
+confident he could have captured Konoma with his Manipuris alone,
+directly after the relief of Kohima. The Konoma men, in fact, offered
+to submit on harsher terms to themselves to Colonel Johnstone than
+were afterwards wrested from them by General Nation with the loss of
+valuable lives, and at a heavy pecuniary cost.--Ed.
+
+[29] I also heard from an old Mozuma friend, Lotoje, that the enemy
+intended to concentrate all his fire on the officers, so as to
+render the men helpless. I told this to the General and Major Cock,
+and strongly advised them to do as I did, and cover their white
+helmets with blue turbans to render themselves less conspicuous,
+urging the inadvisability of needlessly rendering themselves marks
+for the enemy's fire. The General refused, and Cock said he should do
+as the General did, so I said no more; admiring their dogged courage,
+but wishing that they would take advice.
+
+[30] Sharp stakes of bamboo hardened in the fire.
+
+[31] The official medical report of this campaign gives a deplorable
+account of the sufferings of the wounded, and the gangrene which
+affected the wounds in consequence of the extremely insanitary
+condition of the Naga villages and stockades, where the Naga warriors
+had been congregated for weeks expecting the attack--an additional
+reason why the immediate pursuit into their strongholds which Colonel
+Johnstone had recommended after the relief of Kohima should have been
+carried out--failing the acceptance of the harsh terms of peace. See
+ante.--Ed.
+
+[32] This was the road along which Colonel Johnstone had marched to
+relieve Kohima. The old route from the capital of Manipur to Cachar
+was easy enough in comparison.--Ed.
+
+[33] All wars rest in winter.
+
+[34] Chief Court.
+
+[35] Major Edward Dun died on the 5th of June, 1895.--Ed.
+
+[36] Known as Regent during the recent troubles.
+
+[37] "The Senaputtee seemed determined to wipe away all signs of
+British connection with the State. Not only were the charred remains
+of the Residency still further demolished, but every building in the
+neighbourhood, and the very walls of the compound and garden were
+levelled, and the graves of British officers were desecrated. The
+Kang-joop-kool Sanatorium, twelve miles from the capital, built by
+Sir J. Johnstone, was burnt, and his child's grave dug up."--Times'
+telegram, May 3, 1891.--Ed.
+
+It appears by the official correspondence that the Senaputtee sent
+seven Manipur sepahis to open the child's grave, and scatter the
+remains, out of spite to Sir J. Johnstone, whom he knew had wished him
+to be banished, and who (on account of the Senaputtee's exceptionally
+bad character) would never admit him into the Residency. For this act
+the British military authorities had the sepahis flogged.--Nos. 1-11,
+East India (Manipur) Blue Books.--Ed.
+
+[38] "Oh! for a moment of Colonel Johnstone's presence at such a
+crisis," wrote a British official from Manipur, to the Pioneer, in
+1891. "One strong word with the ominous raising of the forefinger,
+would have paralyzed the treacherous rebel Koireng (Senaputtee)
+from perpetrating this outrage."--Ed.
+
+[39] Major Trotter. He received wounds from an ambuscade, and died
+of their effects, July, 1886.--Ed.
+
+[40] "The general history of the Manipur incident," wrote the Times
+in a leading article, Aug. 14, 1891, "must inspire mingled feelings
+in the breasts of most Englishmen. The policy in which it originated,
+cannot be said to reflect credit on the Government of India, while the
+actual explosion itself was precipitated by a series of blunders which
+have never been explained. There seems to be little doubt that had
+the Government of India made up its mind promptly on the merits of the
+dynastic quarrel between the dethroned Maharajah and his brothers, the
+Senaputtee would hardly have been able to commit the crimes which have
+cost him his life. But for five months the Government of India seemed
+to accept the revolution accomplished last September in the palace of
+Manipur. That revolution was notoriously the work of the Senaputtee,
+although he chose, for his own reasons, to place one of his brothers
+on the throne. The Government did not indeed assent to the change,
+but their local representative does not appear to have taken marked
+steps to express his disapproval. He is said to have tolerated and
+condoned it to this extent, that he kept up friendly relations with the
+new ruler as with the old. On the deplorable mistakes which led up to
+the massacre, and made it possible, it is unnecessary to dwell. They
+are still unaccounted for, and so many of the chief actors in that
+fatal business have perished, that it is more than doubtful whether
+we shall ever know exactly to whom they severally were due."--Ed.
+
+[41] Three columns (one alone numbering 1000 strong), were marched
+at once on Imphal, which was found deserted. The Regent was the
+last of the princes who fled. He released the surviving English
+prisoner, and sent him to the British camp to ask for an armistice;
+but this was refused until he delivered up the Englishmen already
+dead. The Manipuris, then expecting no mercy, opposed the march of
+the troops.--Ed.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga
+Hills, by James Johnstone
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