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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills, by 
+James Johnstone
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills
+
+Author: James Johnstone
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2011 [EBook #37839]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project
+Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously
+made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                             MY EXPERIENCES
+                                   IN
+                       MANIPUR AND THE NAGA HILLS
+
+                              By the late
+                   Major-General SIR JAMES JOHNSTONE
+                                K.C.S.I.
+
+                      With an introductory memoir
+
+
+                              Illustrated
+
+
+                                 London
+                    Sampson Low, Marston and Company
+                                Limited
+                          St. Dunstan's House
+                    Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.
+                                  1896
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                               I DEDICATE
+
+                      THESE PAGES TO THE MEMORY OF
+
+                                My Wife,
+
+             WHO SHARED IN MANY OF MY LABOURS AND ANXIETIES
+                    IN MANIPUR, AND THE NAGA HILLS,
+          AND WHOSE SPIRIT INSPIRED ME IN MY LAST ENTERPRISE,
+                        AND WHO, HAD SHE LIVED,
+                 WOULD HAVE WRITTEN A BETTER RECORD OF
+                      OUR EXPERIENCES THAN I HAVE
+                            BEEN ABLE TO DO.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
+
+
+When I first brought my wife out to India in 1873, I was struck by
+the comments she made on things which had so long been part of my
+daily life. I had almost ceased to observe them. Every day she noted
+something new, and her diary was so interesting that I advised her
+to write a book on her "First Impressions of India," and she meant
+to do so, but never had time. Had she lived, this would have been a
+pleasure to her, but it was otherwise ordained. I feel now that I am
+in some way carrying out her wishes, by attempting a description of
+our life in India, though I am fully sensible that I cannot hope to
+achieve the pleasant chatty style in which she excelled.
+
+I have also striven to give a fair record of the events with which I
+was connected; and perhaps, as they include a description of a state
+of things that has passed away for ever, they may not be devoid of
+interest. I am one of those old-fashioned Anglo-Indians who still
+believe in personal government, a system by which we gained India,
+solidified our rule, and made ourselves fairly acceptable to the
+people whom we govern. I believe the machine-like system which we have
+introduced and are endeavouring to force into every corner of India,
+till all personal influence is killed out, to be ill-adapted to the
+requirements of these Oriental races, and blighting in its effects. Not
+one native chief has adopted it in its integrity, which is in itself
+a fair argument that it is distasteful to the native mind; and we may
+be assured that if we evacuated India to-morrow, personal rule would
+again make itself felt throughout the length and breadth of the land,
+and grow stronger every day. I have always striven to be a reformer,
+but a reformer building on the solid foundations that we already find
+everywhere in India. Wherever you go, if there is a semblance of
+native rule left, you find a system admirably adapted to the needs
+of the population, though very often grown over with abuses. Clear
+away these abuses, and add a little in the way of modern progress,
+but always building on the foundation you find ready to hand, and
+you have a system acceptable to all.
+
+We are wonderfully timid in sweeping away real abuses, for fear of
+hurting the feelings of the people; at the same time we weigh them
+down with unnecessary, oppressive, and worrying forms, and deluge the
+country with paper returns, never realising that these cause far more
+annoyance than would be felt at our making some radical change in a
+matter which, after all, affects only a minority. Take, for instance,
+the case of suttee, or widow-burning. It was argued for years that
+we could not put it down without causing a rebellion. What are the
+facts? A governor-general, blessed with moral courage in a great
+degree, determined to abolish the barbarous custom, and his edict
+was obeyed without a murmur. So it has been in many other cases,
+and so it will be wherever we have the courage to do the right
+thing. An unpopular tax would cause more real dissatisfaction than
+any interference with bad old customs, only adhered to from innate
+conservatism. The great principle on which to act is to do what
+is right, and what commends itself to common sense, and to try and
+carry the people with you. Do not let us have more mystery than is
+necessary; telling the plain truth is the best course; vacillation
+is fatal; the strongest officer is generally the most popular, and
+is remembered by the people long after he is dead and gone.
+
+Personal rule is doomed, and men born to be personal rulers and a
+blessing to the governed, are now harassed by the authorities till
+they give up in despair, and swim with the stream.
+
+The machine system did not gain India, and will not keep it for us;
+we must go back to a better system, or be prepared to relax our
+grasp, and give up the grandest work any nation ever undertook--the
+regeneration of an empire!
+
+The House of Commons has to answer for much. No Indian administration
+is safe from the interference of theorists. To-day it is opium that
+is attacked by self-righteous individuals, who see in the usual, and
+in most cases harmless, stimulant of millions, a crying evil; while
+they view with apparent complacency the expenditure of £120,000,000
+per annum on intoxicating liquors in England, and long columns in
+almost every newspaper recording brutal outrages on helpless women
+and children as the result.
+
+Then the military administration is attacked, and in pursuance of
+another chimera, an iniquitous bill is forced on the Government
+of India calculated to produce results, which will probably sap
+the efficiency of our army at a critical moment. So it goes on,
+and it is hardly to be wondered at that the authorities in India
+give up resistance in sheer disgust, knowing all the while that,
+as the French say, le deluge must come after them.
+
+It may be said, "What has all this to do with Manipur and the Naga
+Hills?" Nothing perhaps directly, but indirectly a great deal. The
+system which I decry carries its evil influence everywhere, and Manipur
+has suffered from it. I describe the Naga Hills and Manipur as they
+were in old days. I strove hard for years to hold the floods back from
+this little State and to preserve it intact, while doing all I could
+to introduce reforms. Now the floods have overwhelmed it, and if it
+rises again above them it will not be the Manipur that I knew and
+loved. May it, in spite of my doubts and fears, be a better Manipur.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    Page
+
+Introduction                                                         xix
+
+
+Chapter I.
+
+    Arrival in India--Hospitable friends--The Lieut.-Governor--Journey
+    to the Naga Hills--Nigriting--Golaghat--A panther reminiscence--Hot
+    springs--A village dance--Dimapur--My new abode                    1
+
+
+Chapter II.
+
+    Samagudting--Unhealthy quarters--A callous widower--Want of
+    water--Inhabitants of the Naga Hills--Captain Butler--Other
+    officials--Our life in the wilds--A tiger carries off the
+    postman--An Indian forest--Encouragement                          12
+
+
+Chapter III.
+
+    Historical events connected with Manipur and the Naga
+    Hills--Different tribes--Their religion--Food and customs         22
+
+
+Chapter IV.
+
+    Value of keeping a promise--Episode of Sallajee--Protection
+    given to small villages, and the large one defied--"Thorough"
+    Government of India's views--A plea for Christian education in
+    the Naga Hills                                                    37
+
+
+Chapter V.
+
+    Visit Dimapur--A terrible storm--Cultivation--Aggression by
+    Konoma--My ultimatum--Konoma submits--Birth of a son--Forest
+    flowers--A fever patient--Proposed change of station--Leave
+    Naga Hills--March through the forest--Depredation by
+    tigers--Calcutta--Return to England                               45
+
+
+Chapter VI.
+
+    Return to India--Attached to Foreign Office--Imperial assemblage at
+    Delhi--Almorah--Appointed to Manipur--Journey to Shillong--Cherra
+    Poojee--Colonel McCulloch--Question of ceremony                   54
+
+
+Chapter VII.
+
+    Start for Manipur--March over the hills--Lovely scenery--View of
+    the valley--State reception--The Residency--Visitors              60
+
+
+Chapter VIII.
+
+    Visit the Maharajah--His ministers--Former revolutions--Thangal
+    Major                                                             69
+
+
+Chapter IX.
+
+    Manipur--Early history--Our connection with it--Ghumbeer
+    Singh--Burmese war                                                78
+
+
+Chapter X.
+
+    Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of him--Nur Singh and
+    attempt on his life--McCulloch--His wisdom and generosity--My
+    establishment--Settlement of frontier dispute                     88
+
+
+Chapter XI.
+
+    My early days in Manipur--The capital--The inhabitants--Good
+    qualities of Manipuris--Origin of valley of Manipur--Expedition
+    to the Naga Hills--Lovely scenery--Attack on Kongal Tannah by
+    Burmese--Return from Naga Hills--Visit Kongal Tannah              95
+
+
+Chapter XII.
+
+    Discussions as to new Residency--Its completion--Annual
+    boat-races--Kang-joop-kool--Daily work--Dealings with the
+    Durbar                                                           104
+
+
+Chapter XIII.
+
+    Violent conduct of Prince Koireng--A rebuke--Service
+    payment--Advantages of Manipuri system--Customs
+    duties--Slavery--Releasing slaves--Chowbas' fidelity--Sepoy's
+    kindness to children--Visit to the Yoma range                    112
+
+
+Chapter XIV.
+
+    An old acquaintance--Monetary crisis--A cure for breaking
+    crockery--Rumour of human sacrifices--Improved postal
+    system--Apricots--Mulberries--A snake story--Search after
+    treasure--Another snake story--Visit to Calcutta--Athletics--Ball
+    practice--A near shave                                           122
+
+
+Chapter XV.
+
+    Spring in Manipur--Visit Kombang--Manipuri orderlies--Parade of
+    the Maharajah's Guards--Birth of a daughter--An evening walk in
+    the capital--Polo--Visit to Cachar                               131
+
+
+Chapter XVI.
+
+    Punishment of female criminals--A man saved from execution--A Kuki
+    executed--Old customs abolished--Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh--The
+    Manipuri army--Effort to re-organise Manipur Levy--System
+    of rewards--"Nothing for nothing"--An English school--Hindoo
+    festivals--Rainbows--View from Kang-joop-kool                    138
+
+
+Chapter XVII.
+
+    Mr. Damant and the Naga Hills--Rumours on which I act--News
+    of revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant's murder--Maharajah's
+    loyalty--March to the relief of Kohima--Relief of Kohima--Incidents
+    of siege--Heroism of ladies--A noble defence                     147
+
+
+Chapter XVIII.
+
+    Restoring order and confidence--Arrival of Major Evans--Arrival
+    of Major Williamson--Keeping open communication--Attack on
+    Phesama--Visit to Manipur--General Nation arrives--Join him at
+    Suchema--Prepare to attack Konoma--Assault of Konoma             161
+
+
+Chapter XIX.
+
+    Konoma evacuated--Journey to Suchema for provisions and ammunition,
+    and return--We march to Suchema with General--Visit Manipur--Very
+    ill--Meet Sir Steuart Bayley in Cachar--His visit to Manipur--Grand
+    reception--Star of India--Chussad attack on Chingsow--March to
+    Kohima and back--Reflections on Maharajah's services--Naga Hills
+    campaign overshadowed by Afghan war                              175
+
+
+Chapter XX.
+
+    Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad outrage--Interesting
+    country--Rhododendrons--Splendid forest--Chingsow and the
+    murders--Chattik--March back across the hills                    182
+
+
+Chapter XXI.
+
+    Saving a criminal from execution--Konoma men visit me--A
+    terrible earthquake--Destruction wrought in the capital--Illness
+    of the Maharajah--Question as to the succession--Arrival of
+    the Queen's warrant--Reception by the Maharajah--The Burmese
+    question                                                         190
+
+
+Chapter XXII.
+
+    March to Mao and improvement of the road--Lieutenant
+    Raban--Constant troubles with Burmah--Visit to Mr. Elliott
+    at Kohima--A tiger hunt made easy--A perilous adventure--Rose
+    bushes--Brutal conduct of Prince Koireng--We leave Manipur for
+    England                                                          198
+
+
+Chapter XXIII.
+
+    Return to Manipur--Revolution in my absence--Arrangements for
+    boundary--Survey and settlement--Start for Kongal--Burmese will
+    not act--We settle boundary--Report to Government--Return to
+    England                                                          208
+
+
+Chapter XXIV.
+
+    Return to India--Visit to Shillong--Manipur again--Cordial
+    reception--Trouble with Thangal Major--New arts introduced       216
+
+
+Chapter XXV.
+
+    A friend in need--Tour round the valley--Meet the Chief
+    Commissioner--March to Cachar--Tour through the Tankhool
+    country--Metomi Saraméttie--Somrah--Terrace cultivators--A
+    dislocation--Old quarters at Kongal Tannah--Return to the valley
+    --A sad parting                                                  223
+
+
+Chapter XXVI.
+
+    More trouble with Thangal Major--Tit-for-tat--Visit to the Kubo
+    valley--A new Aya Pooiel--Journey to Shillong--War is declared--A
+    message to Kendat to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation agents--Anxiety
+    as to their fate--March to Mao                                   236
+
+
+Chapter XXVII.
+
+    News from Kendat--Mr. Morgan and his people safe--I determine to
+    march to Moreh Tannah--March to Kendat--Arrive in time to save
+    the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents--Visit of the Woon--Visit
+    to the Woon                                                      244
+
+
+Chapter XXVIII.
+
+    People fairly friendly--Crucifixion--Carelessness of Manipuris--I
+    cross the Chindwin--Recross the Chindwin--Collect provisions--Erect
+    stockades and fortify our position--Revolt at Kendat--We assume the
+    offensive--Capture boats and small stockades--Revolt put down--Woon
+    and Ruckstuhl rescued--Steamers arrive and leave                 251
+
+
+Chapter XXIX.
+
+    Mischief done by departure of steamers--Determine to establish the
+    Woon at Tamu--The country quieting down--Recovery of mails--Letter
+    from the Viceroy--Arrive at Manipur--Bad news--I return to
+    Tamu--Night march to Pot-thâ--An engagement--Wounded--Return to
+    Manipur--Farewell--Leave for England                             260
+
+
+Chapter XXX.
+
+Conclusion.
+
+    The events of 1890-1                                             271
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY MEMOIR.
+
+
+These experiences were written in brief intervals of leisure, during
+the last few months of the author's busy life, which was brought to
+a sudden close before they were finally revised. Only last March when
+his nearest relations met at Fulford Hall to take leave of the eldest
+son of the house, before he sailed for India, the manuscript was still
+incomplete, and Sir James read some part of it aloud. His health had
+suffered greatly from over-fatigue in the unhealthy parts of India,
+in which his lot had been chiefly cast, but it was now quite restored
+and a prolonged period of usefulness seemed before him.
+
+Improvements on the farms on his estate, a church within reach of his
+cottagers, to be built as a memorial to his late wife, and the hope
+of being once more employed abroad, probably as a colonial governor,
+were all plans for the immediate future, while the present was
+occupied with the magisterial and other business (including lectures
+on history in village institutes), which fill up so much of an English
+country gentleman's life. He had saved nothing in India. What the
+Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal wrote in 1872 of his early work at
+Keonjhur, applied to everything else he subsequently undertook:
+"Captain Johnstone's schools, twenty in number, continue to flourish,
+attracting an average attendance of 665 children. Captain Johnstone's
+efforts to improve the crops and cattle of Keonjhur have before been
+remarked by the Lieutenant-Governor. His sacrifices for this end and
+for his charge generally, are, His Honour believes, almost unique." [1]
+But in 1881 by the death of his late father's elder brother, he
+inherited the Fulford estate on the boundaries of Worcestershire and
+Warwickshire, as well as Dunsley Manor in Staffordshire. The old Hall
+at Fulford, a strongly built, black and white, half-timbered erection
+of some centuries back, had been pulled down a few years before,
+and Sir James built the present house close to the old site. It was
+here that he was brought back in a dying state on June 13th, 1895,
+about 10 A.M., after riding out of the grounds only ten minutes
+before, full of life and energy. No one witnessed what occurred;
+he was a splendid horseman, but there was evidence that the horse,
+always inclined to be restive, had taken fright on passing a cottager's
+gate and tried to turn back, and that, as its master's whip was still
+firmly grasped in his hand, there had been a struggle.
+
+He was engaged to assist the next day at the annual meeting of the
+Conservative and Unionist Association at Stratford-on-Avon. The Marquis
+of Hertford, who presided, when announcing the catastrophe in very
+feeling terms, spoke of the excellent work that Sir James Johnstone
+had done for the Unionist cause in Warwickshire. At Wythall Church
+(of which he was warden) the Vicar alluded, the following Sunday, to
+"the striking example he had set of a devout and attentive worshipper."
+
+A retired official who had been acquainted with him in India for
+over thirty years, wrote on the same occasion to Captain Charles
+Johnstone, R.N.: "Your brother was a type of character not at all
+common, high-principled, fearless, just, with an overwhelming sense
+of duty, and restless spirit of adventure. It is by characters of
+his type, that our great empire has been created, and it is only if
+such types continue that we may look forward and hope that it will
+be maintained and extended."
+
+Although the family from which Sir James Johnstone sprang is of
+Scottish origin, his own branch of it had lived in Worcestershire
+and Warwickshire for nearly a century and a half. "It has taken a
+prominent part in the social and public life of the Midlands, and
+has produced several eminent physicians." [2] He was the eleventh in
+direct male descent from William Johnstone of Graitney, who received
+a charter of the barony of Newbie for "distinguished services" to
+the Scottish crown in 1541. A remnant of the old Scottish estates was
+inherited by his great-grandfather, Dr. James Johnstone, who died at
+Worcester in 1802, and who, being the fourth son of his parents, had
+left Annandale at the age of twenty-one to settle in Worcestershire
+as a physician, but who always kept up his relations with Scotland,
+and meant to return there in his old age. His anxiety to secure this
+estate--Galabank--in the male line, really defeated his purpose; for
+he bequeathed it to his then unmarried younger son, the late Dr. John
+Johnstone, F.R.S., whose daughter now possesses it, to the exclusion of
+his elder sons who seemed likely to leave nothing but daughters. One
+of these elder sons was Sir James's grandfather, the late Dr. Edward
+Johnstone of Edgbaston Hall, who had married the heiress of Fulford,
+but was left a widower in 1800. Dr. Edward Johnstone was remarried
+in 1802 to Miss Pearson of Tettenhall, and of their two sons, the
+younger, James, born in 1806, practised for many years as a physician,
+and was President of the British Medical Association when it met
+in Birmingham in 1856. His eldest son, the subject of this notice,
+was born in a house now pulled down in the Old Square, Birmingham,
+on February 9th, 1841. Brought up in the midst of the large family of
+brothers and sisters, whose childhood was passed between their home
+in the Old Square and their grandfather's residence at Edgbaston Hall,
+where they spent the summer and autumn: he used also to look back with
+particular pleasure on his visits to his maternal grandfather's country
+house, where he first mounted a pony. His mother was his instructor,
+except occasional lessons from the Rev. T. Price, till at the age of
+nine he entered King Edward's Classical School, of which his father
+was a governor. The head master at that time (1850), was the Rev. (now
+Archdeacon) E. H. Gifford, D.D., and in the school list for 1852,
+Johnstone senior is placed next in the same class to Mackenzie (now
+Sir Alex.), the present Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal.
+
+In 1855, young James Johnstone went to a military college in Paris,
+which was swept away before 1870, with a great part of the older
+portion of the city. After a year and a half in Paris he was
+transferred to the Royal Naval and Military Academy, Gosport, and
+a few months later qualified for one of the last cadetships given
+under the old East India Company. Without delay he proceeded to
+India, which was at that period distracted by the Indian Mutiny,
+so that his regiment the 68th Bengal Native Infantry, consisted only
+of officers attached to different European regiments, or acting in a
+civil capacity. With the 73rd (Queen's Regiment) he marched through
+the country, and was actively employed in the suppression of the
+insurgents, after which he was stationed for some time in Assam where
+he also saw active service. There, in 1862, he met with the accident
+he alludes to on pp. 3 and 20. It came in the course of his duty, as
+the population of a village which had been disarmed had sent to the
+nearest military post to ask for assistance against a tiger (panther),
+causing destruction in the neighbourhood; but he was very much hurt,
+and the weakening effects of this accident, seem to have predisposed
+him to attacks of the malaria fever of the district, from which he
+frequently suffered afterwards.
+
+His next post was at Keonjhur, where there had been an outbreak
+against the Rajah by some of the hill-tribes and the chief insurgent
+had been executed. Lieutenant Johnstone was appointed special
+assistant to the superintendent of the Tributary Mehals at Cuttack,
+in whose official district Keonjhur lies. The Superintendent wrote
+to the Lieutenant-Governor (Sir William Grey) of Bengal in 1869:
+"Captain Johnstone has acquired their full confidence, and hopes
+very shortly to be able to dispense with the greater part of the
+Special Police Force posted at Keonjhur. He appears to take very
+great interest in his work, and is sanguine of success." The same
+official when enclosing Captain Johnstone's first report, wrote:
+"It contains much interesting matter regarding the people, and shows
+that he has taken great pains in bringing them into the present
+peaceable and apparently loyal condition," and a little further on,
+when describing an interview he had with the Rajah: "From the manner
+in which he spoke of Captain Johnstone, I was exceedingly glad to
+find that the most good feeling exists between them." He also adds,
+apropos of a recommendation that the Government should pay half the
+expense of the special commission instead of charging it all on the
+native state: "Nearly one half of Captain Johnstone's time has been
+occupied in Khedda (catching wild elephants) operations, which have
+been successful and profitable to Government, and totally unconnected
+with that officer's duty in Keonjhur." [3]
+
+A year later the superintendent (T. E. Ravenshaw, Esq.) reports:
+"Captain Johnstone, with his usual liberality and tact, has clothed
+two thousand naked savages, and has succeeded in inducing them to wear
+the garments;" and again, "Captain Johnstone's success in establishing
+schools has been most marked, and there are now nine hundred children
+receiving a rudimentary education.... Captain Johnstone has very
+correctly estimated the political importance of education and
+enlightenment among the hill people, and it is evident that he has
+worked most judiciously and successfully in this direction." And again:
+"In the matter of improvement of breed of cattle, Captain Johnstone
+has, at his own expense, formed a valuable herd of sixty cows and
+several young bulls ready to extend the experiment.... Captain
+Johnstone's experiments on rice and flax cultivation have been
+very successful" (two years later this is attributed to his having
+superintended them himself). The official report sums up, "Of Captain
+Johnstone I cannot speak too highly; his management has been efficient,
+and he has exercised careful and constant supervision over the Rajah
+and his estate, in a manner which has resulted in material improvement
+to both."
+
+Subsequently, when Captain Johnstone was on leave in England, the
+Keonjhur despatches show that he sent directions that the increase of
+his herd of cattle should be distributed gratis among the natives. They
+were at first afraid to accept them, hardly believing in the gift.
+
+"Keonjhur," says the Government report of India for 1870-1, "continues
+under the able administration of Captain Johnstone, who, it will be
+remembered, was mainly instrumental in restoring the country to quiet
+three years ago."
+
+Captain Johnstone was too good a classic not to remember the Roman
+method of conquering and subduing a province; and as far as funds
+would permit, he opened out roads and cleared away jungle. But he
+suffered again from the malaria so prevalent in the forest districts
+of India, and took three months' furlough in 1871, which meant just
+one month in England. Although he had lost his father in May, 1869,
+and his absence from home that year gave him some extra legal expense,
+he would not quit his work till he could leave it in a satisfactory
+state; yet the Lieut.-Governor of Bengal (Sir George Campbell) twice
+referred to this furlough as being "most unfortunate," particularly
+as it had to be repeated within a few months. The superintendent
+wrote from Cuttack in his yearly report to the Lieut.-Governor:
+"Captain Johnstone's serious and alarming illness necessitated his
+taking sick leave to England in August, 1871. He had only a short
+time previously returned from furlough, and with health half restored,
+over-tasked his strength in carrying out elephant Khedda work in the
+deadly jungles of Moburdhunj."
+
+In the spring of 1872, Captain Johnstone was married to Emma Mary
+Lloyd, with whose family his own had a hereditary friendship of
+three generations. Her father was at that time M.P. for Plymouth,
+and living at Moor Hall in Warwickshire. Their first child, James,
+died of bronchitis when six months old, and they returned to India
+a short time afterwards, at which point the experiences begin. Their
+second child, Richard, was born at Samagudting, and is now a junior
+officer in the battalion of the 60th King's Own Royal Rifles, quartered
+in India. The third son, Edward, was born at Dunsley Manor, and two
+younger children in Manipur.
+
+Manipur, to which Colonel Johnstone was appointed in 1877, was
+called by one of the Indian secretaries the Cinderella among
+political agencies. "They'll never," he said, "get a good man to
+take it." "Well," was the reply, "a good man has taken it now." The
+loneliness, the surrounding savages, and the ill-feeling excited by
+the Kubo valley (which so late as 1852 is placed in Manipur, in maps
+published in Calcutta) having been made over to Burmah, were among the
+reasons of its unpopularity. Colonel Johnstone's predecessor, Captain
+Durand (now Sir Edward) draws a very glaring picture in his official
+report for 1877, of the Maharajah's misgovernment; the wretched
+condition of the people, and the most unpleasant position of the
+Political Agent, whom he described as "in fact a British officer under
+Manipur surveillance.... He is surrounded by spies.... If the Maharajah
+is not pleased with the Political Agent he cannot get anything--he is
+ostracised. From bad coarse black atta, which the Maharajah sells him
+as a favour, to the dhoby who washes his clothes, and the Nagas who
+work in his garden, he cannot purchase anything." Yet, well knowing all
+this, Colonel Johnstone readily accepted the post, confident that with
+his great knowledge of Eastern languages, and of Eastern customs and
+modes of thought, he should be able to bring about a better state of
+things, both as regarded the oppressed inhabitants and the permanent
+influence of the representative of the British Government. Whether
+this confidence was justified, the following pages will show.
+
+
+                                                                 EDITOR.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR AND THE NAGA HILLS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Arrival in India--Hospitable friends--The
+    Lieutenant-Governor--Journey to the Naga
+    Hills--Nigriting--Golaghat--A Panther reminiscence--Hot springs--A
+    village dance--Dimapur--My new abode.
+
+
+I left England with my wife on November 13th, 1873, and after an
+uneventful voyage, reached Bombay, December 9th. We proceeded at once
+to Calcutta, where some of my old servants joined me, including two
+bearers, Seewa and Keptie, wild Bhooyas from the Cuttack Tributary
+Mehals, whom I had trained, and who had been with me for years in
+all my wanderings, in that wild territory. Thanks to the kindness of
+my friends the Bernards (now Sir C. and Lady Bernard), we spent only
+a day at an hotel, and remained under their hospitable roof till we
+left Calcutta.
+
+My old appointment in Keonjhur had been abolished, and I had to wait
+till another was open to me. I had several interviews on the subject
+with the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, Sir G. Campbell. Finally it
+was decided that I should go to Assam (then about to be made into a
+Chief Commissionership) and act as Political Agent of the Naga Hills,
+while the permanent official--Captain Butler--was away in the Interior,
+and subsequently on leave. I knew a large part of the district well,
+as one of the most malarious in India, and when asked if I would take
+the appointment, said, "Yes, I have no objection, but just hint to
+the Lieutenant-Governor that unless he wants to kill me off, it may
+be better policy to send me elsewhere, as the Medical Board in London
+said, I must not go to a malarious district, after the experience
+I have had of it in Keonjhur." The Secretary conveyed my hint, and
+when I next saw him, said, "The Lieutenant-Governor says, that is
+all stuff and nonsense." Later on Sir G. Campbell asked if my wife
+would go with me. I quietly replied that she would go anywhere with me.
+
+Finally, on December 30th, we left Calcutta, and after a night in the
+train, embarked in one of the I. G. S. N. Co.'s steamers at Goalundo,
+for Nigriting on the Burrhampooter, where we had to land for the Naga
+Hills. The steamers of those days, were not like the well-appointed
+mail boats now in use. The voyage was long, the steamers uncomfortable,
+and the company on board anything but desirable. All the same, the
+days passed pleasantly, while we slowly wended our way up the mighty
+river, amid lovely and interesting scenery all new to my wife, to
+whom I pointed out the different historic spots as they came in view.
+
+We halted at Gowhatty for the night, and early in the morning I swam
+across the river for the second time in my life, a distance of about
+three miles, as the current carried me in a slanting direction.
+
+At last we reached Nigriting, and were landed on a dry sandbank five
+or six miles from the celebrated tea gardens of that name, and the
+nearest habitations. Fortunately, I had brought a tent and all things
+needful for a march; and my servants, well accustomed to camp life,
+soon pitched it and made us comfortable, and my wife was charmed with
+her first experience. We had a message of welcome from Mr. Boyle,
+of Nigriting Factory, and the next day went to his house in canoes,
+whence we set out for Golaghat.
+
+It was to Nigriting that I was carried for change of air nearly
+twelve years before, when, in April, 1862, I was desperately wounded
+in an encounter with a large panther near Golaghat, where I had been
+stationed. I then lived for a week or so in a grass hut on a high
+bank, and the fresh air made my obstinate wounds begin to heal. Thus it
+happened that all the people knew me well, and I was long remembered by
+the name of "Baghé Khooah" literally the "tiger eaten," a name which I
+found was still familiar to every one. Loading our things on elephants,
+and having a pony for my wife, and a dandy (hill litter) in case she
+grew tired, we set off for Golaghat, and had a picnic luncheon on the
+way. How delightful are our first experiences of marching in India,
+even when we have, as in this case, to put up with some discomfort;
+the cool, crisp air in the morning; the good appetite that a ten-mile
+walk or ride gives; the feeling that breakfast has been earned, and
+finally breakfast itself; and such a good one. Where indeed but in
+India could we have a first-rate meal of three or four courses, and
+every dish hot, with no better appliances in the shape of a fireplace,
+than two or three clods of earth? Often have I had a dinner fit for
+a king, when heavy rain had been falling for hours, and there was no
+shelter for my men, but a tree with a sheet thrown over a branch.
+
+We breakfasted at a place called "Char Alleé" and the march being
+long (nearly twenty miles), the sun was low long before reaching
+Golaghat. As we passed some road coolies, I began a conversation with
+the old Tekla (overseer) in charge, and asked him if he could get me
+a few oranges. He said, "Oh no, they are all over." He then asked me
+how I came to speak Assamese so well. I said, "I have been in Assam
+before." He said, "Oh yes, there have been many sahibs in my time,"
+and he named several; "and then long ago there was a 'Baghé Khooah'
+sahib, I wonder where he is now?" I looked at him and said, "Ami Baghé
+Khooah" (I am the Baghé Khooah). The old man gazed equally hard at
+me for a moment and then ran in front of me and made a most profound
+obeisance. Having done this, he smilingly said, "I think I can find
+you some oranges after all," and at once ran off, and brought me some
+for which he refused to take anything. The good old man walked about a
+mile farther before he wished me good-bye; and my wife and I went on,
+greatly pleased to find that I was so well remembered.
+
+We did not get to Golaghat till long after dark, and pitched our tent
+on the site of the lines of my old detachment, which I had commanded
+twelve years before. What a change! Trees that I had remembered as
+small, had grown large, and some that were planted since I left,
+already a fair size.
+
+In the morning we received a perfect ovation. People who had known me
+before, crowded to see me and pay their respects, many of them bringing
+their children born since I had left. All this was pleasant enough and
+greatly delighted my wife, but we had to proceed on our way, and it
+is always difficult to get one's followers to move from a civilised
+place, where there is a bazaar, into the jungle, and henceforth our
+road lay through jungle, the Nambor forest beginning about five miles
+from Golaghat. At last coolies to carry my wife arrived, and I sent
+her on in her "dandy" with her ayah, charging the bearers to wait
+for me at a village I well knew, called "Sipahee Hoikeeah." The men
+replied, "Hoi Deota" (Yes, deity [4]) and started. The elephants
+were a great difficulty, and it was some hours before I could get
+off, and even then some had not arrived. However, off I started,
+and hurried on to "Sipahee Hoikeeah" so as not to keep my wife
+waiting, but when I reached the spot, I found to my amazement that
+the village had ceased to exist, having, as I subsequently learned,
+been abandoned for fear of the Nagas. I hurried on in much anxiety,
+as my wife did not speak Hindoostani, and neither ayah nor bearers
+spoke English. At last I caught them up at the Nambor hot springs,
+called by natives the "Noonpoong" where we were to halt.
+
+
+
+------
+FIGURE
+
+Camping Out.
+
+[Page 6.
+------
+
+
+
+The Noonpoong is situated in a lovely spot amidst fine forest. The
+hot water springs out of the ground, at a temperature of 112 degrees
+and fills a small pool. It is similar in taste to the waters
+of Aix-la-Chapelle, and is highly efficacious in skin diseases,
+being resorted to even for the cure of severe leech bites, which
+are easily obtained from the land leech infesting all the forests
+of Assam. Fortunately some of our cooking things, with chairs and a
+table arrived, also a mattress, but no bed and no tent. We waited
+till 9 P.M., and finding that no more elephants came up, I made
+up a bed for my wife on the ground under a table, to shelter her
+from the dew, but while sitting by the camp fire for a last warm,
+we heard the noise of an elephant, and saw one emerging from the
+forest. Fortunately he carried the tent which was quickly pitched,
+and we passed a comfortable night.
+
+The hot springs are not the only attraction of the neighbourhood, as
+about two miles off in the forest, there is a very pretty waterfall,
+not high, but the volume of water is considerable, and it comes down
+with a thundering sound heard for some distance. The natives call it
+the "phutta hil," literally "rent rock." The Nambor forest is noted
+for its Nahor or Nagessur trees (Mesua Ferma) a handsome tree, the
+heart of which is a fine red wood, very hard and very heavy, and quite
+impervious to the attacks of white ants. Europeans call it the iron
+wood of Assam. It is very plentiful in parts of the forest between
+the Noonpoong and Golaghat, and also grows in the lowlands of Manipur.
+
+The next morning we set out for Borpathar, a village with a fine sheet
+of cultivation on the banks of the Dunseree, and took up our quarters
+in the old blockhouse, which had been converted into a comfortable rest
+house. Here again we received a perfect ovation, the people, headed by
+my old friend Hova Ram, now promoted to a Mouzadar, coming in a body,
+with fruit and eggs, etc., to pay their respects. The population had
+sadly diminished since my early days, the people having in many cases
+fled the country for fear of Naga raids.
+
+The march having been a short one, all our baggage had time to come
+up. In the evening the girls of the village entertained us with one
+of their national dances, a very pretty and interesting sight. After
+a good night's rest we again started, our march lying through the
+noble forest, where buttressed trees formed an arch over the road,
+showing plainly that Gothic architecture was an adaptation from
+nature. I had never marched along the road since it was cleared; but
+I was there in 1862, in pursuit of some Naga raiders, when it would
+have been impassable, but for elephant and rhinoceros tracks. Even
+then I was struck by its great beauty, and now it was a fairly good
+cold weather track.
+
+We halted at Deo Panee, then at Hurreo Jan, and Nowkatta, and on the
+fourth day reached Dimapur, where we found a comfortable rest house,
+on the banks of a fine tank about two hundred yards square. This,
+with many others near it, spoke of days of civilisation that had long
+since passed away, before the Naga drove the Cacharee from the hills he
+now inhabits, and from the rich valley of the Dunseree. Near Dimapur
+we passed a Meekir hut built on posts ten or twelve feet high, and
+with a notched log resting against it, at an angle of about seventy
+degrees by way of a staircase, up which a dog ran like a squirrel
+at our approach. The Meekirs occupy some low hill ranges between the
+Naga hills and the Burrhampooter.
+
+The country round Dimapur is exceedingly rich, and everywhere bears
+the marks of having been thickly populated. It is well supplied
+with artificial square tanks, some much larger than the one already
+referred to, and on the opposite bank of the river we crossed to reach
+our halting place, are the remains of an old fortified city. Mounds
+containing broken pottery made with the wheel, abound, though the
+neighbouring tribes have forgotten its use. At Dimapur, in those days,
+there were three or four Government elephants and a few shops kept by
+"Khyahs," an enterprising race of merchants from Western India.
+
+The ruined city is worth describing. It was surrounded originally by
+solid brick walls twelve feet in height and six in thickness, the
+bricks admirably made and burned. The walls enclosed a space seven
+hundred yards square; it was entered by a Gothic archway, and not far
+off had a gap in the wall, said to have been made for cattle to enter
+by. Inside were tanks, some lined with brick walls, and with brick
+steps leading to the water. Though I carefully explored the interior,
+I never saw any other traces of brickwork, except perhaps a platform;
+but I found one or two sacrificial stones, for offerings of flowers,
+water and oil. One corner of the surrounding wall had been cut away
+by the river. The enclosure is covered with forest. Near the gateway
+are some huge monoliths, one eighteen feet in height. All are covered
+with sculpture, and some have deep grooves cut in the top, as if to
+receive beams. It is difficult to conjecture what they were brought
+there for, and how they were transported, as the nearest rocks from
+which they could have been cut, are at least ten miles away. If the
+Assam-Bengal Railway passes near Dimapur as is, I believe, arranged,
+this interesting old city wall will probably be used as a quarry for
+railway purposes, and soon none of it will remain. Alas, for Vandalism!
+
+History tells us little about the origin of Dimapur, but probably it
+was once a centre of Cacharee civilisation, and as the Angami Nagas
+advanced, the city wall was built, so as to afford a place of refuge
+against sudden raids. It is a strange sight to see the relics of a
+forgotten civilisation, in the midst of a pathless forest.
+
+On our march up, we frequently came upon the windings of the river
+Dunseree. At Nowkatta it runs parallel for a time with the road, and
+we took our evening walk on its dry sandbanks, finding many recent
+traces of tigers and wild elephants. From that time till we finally
+left the hills, the roar of tigers and the trumpeting of elephants
+were such common sounds, that we ceased to pay attention to them, and
+my wife, though naturally timid, became devoted to the wild solitude
+of our life.
+
+At Dimapur we enjoyed the luxury of fresh milk, which, of course,
+the forest did not supply. The night was delightfully cold, and the
+next morning crisp and invigorating, and we set off at an early hour,
+for our last march into Samagudting.
+
+For the first eight miles our road was through a level forest country,
+with the exception of a piece of low-lying grass land, and at a place
+called Nichu Guard the ascent of the hill commenced. This entrance of
+the gorge through which the Diphoo Panee river enters the low lands is
+very beautiful, the stream rushing out from the hills over a pebbly
+bottom, and it was a favourite encamping ground for us in our later
+marches. Now, we had not time to halt, so hurried on. The road up the
+hill was in fair condition for men and elephants, but did not admit
+of wheeled traffic, had there been any carts to use. We accomplished
+the ascent, a distance of four miles, in about two hours, obtaining
+several lovely views of the boundless forest, on our way.
+
+The vegetation on the hill itself had been much injured by the
+abominable practice hillmen have, of clearing a fresh space every two
+or three years, and deserting it for another, when the soil has been
+exhausted. This never gives it time to recover. At last we reached
+the summit, and took possession of the Political Agent's house, a
+large bungalow, built of grass and bamboo, the roof being supported by
+wooden posts, on the highest point of the hill. A glance showed me that
+the posts were nearly eaten through by white ants, and that the first
+high wind would level it with the ground. It had been built by a man
+who never intended to stay, and who only wanted it to last his time.
+
+Later in the day, I took over the charge from Mr. Coombs, who was
+acting till my arrival, and thus became, for the time, chief of the
+district. My staff consisted of Mr. Needham, Assistant Political Agent,
+and Mr. Cooper, in medical charge, the usual office establishment,
+and one hundred and fifty military police. Most of these, together with
+Captain Butler, for whom I was acting, were away in the Interior with
+a survey party. Mr. Coombs left in a day or two, and I then occupied
+his bungalow lower down the hill, and in a more exposed position, so
+as to allow of the larger house being rebuilt. Besides the Government
+establishment, we had a fair-sized Naga village on the hill, and
+just below the Political Agent's house. These people had long been
+friendly to us, and were willing, for a large recompense, to do all
+sorts of odd jobs, being entirely free from the caste prejudices of
+our Hindoo and degenerate Mussulman fellow-subjects.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Samagudting--Unhealthy quarters--A callous widower--Want of
+    water--Inhabitants of the Naga Hills--Captain Butler--Other
+    officials--Our life in the wilds--A tiger carries off the
+    postman--An Indian forest--Encouragement.
+
+
+My first impressions of Samagudting, were anything but favourable. It
+was eminently a "make-shift place." It had been occupied by us as
+a small outpost, from time to time, between 1846 and 1851, but it
+was never fit for a permanent post of more than twenty-five men,
+as the water supply was bad, there being no springs, and only a few
+water holes which were entirely dependent on the uncertain rainfall. A
+small tank had been constructed, but it was 500 feet below the summit,
+so that water was sold at an almost prohibitive rate. All articles
+of food were scarce, dear and bad, wood was enormously dear, and to
+crown all, the place was unhealthy and constantly enveloped in fog.
+
+Samagudting [5] ought never to have been occupied, and would not
+have been, had the Government taken ordinary precautions to verify
+the too roseate reports of an officer who wished to see it adopted
+as the headquarters of a new district, as a speedy road to promotion,
+and subsequent transfer to a more favoured appointment. The report in
+question which, among other things, mentioned the existence of springs
+of water, that existed only in imagination, having once been accepted
+by the authorities, and a large expenditure incurred, it became a
+very invidious task for future Political Agents to unmask the affair,
+and proclaim the extreme unsuitability of Samagudting for a station.
+
+Many other good and healthy sites were available, and I believe that
+our dealings with the Nagas were greatly retarded, by the adoption
+of such an unsuitable post. As it was, having made our road over the
+hill, it was necessary to climb an ascent of over two thousand feet,
+and an equal descent, before entering the really important portion
+of the Angami Naga country. I at once saw that the right entrance
+lay by the Diphoo Panee Gorge, and I recommended its adoption. I
+began to make this road during the Naga Hills Campaign of 1879-80,
+and it has since been regularly used.
+
+Having said all that there was to say against Samagudting, it is
+only fair to mention its good points. First, though never so cold in
+the winter, as the plains, the temperature was never so high in the
+hot and rainy seasons; and when the weather was fine, it was very
+enjoyable. The views from the hill were magnificent. To the south,
+the Burrail range, from which a broad and undulating valley divided
+us. To the west, a long stretch of hills and forests. To the east,
+the valley of the Dunseree, bordered by the Rengma and Lotah Naga
+hills, a vast forest, stretching as far as the eye could reach,
+with here and there a large patch of high grass land, one of which
+many miles in extent, was the Rengma Putha, a grand elephant catching
+ground in old times, where many a noble elephant became a victim to
+the untiring energy of the Bengali elephant phandaits or noosers,
+from the Morung. [6] To the north, the view extended over a pathless
+forest, the first break being the Doboka Hills. Behind these, a long
+bank of mist showed the line of the Burrhampooter, while on clear
+days in the cold weather, we might see the dark line of the Bhootan
+Hills, with the snowy peaks of the Himalayas towering above them. [7]
+Altogether, it was a sight once seen, never to be forgotten.
+
+
+
+------
+FIGURE
+
+Samagudting.
+
+[Page 14.
+------
+
+
+
+There was a footpath all round the hill, which, after a little
+alteration of level here and there, and a little repairing, where
+landslips had made it unsafe, was delightful for a morning or evening
+walk or ride. As my wife was fond of botany, she found a subject of
+never-ending interest in the many wild flowers, ferns, and climbing
+plants, and soon grew accustomed to riding along the edge of a dizzy
+precipice.
+
+Our private establishment consisted of ten or twelve servants in all,
+including a girl of the Kuki tribe, named Bykoout, who assisted the
+ayah; a very small establishment for India. Servants in Assam are
+bad and difficult to keep. Most of mine were imported, but, with the
+exception of my two faithful Bhooyas, Seewa and Keptie, and a syce
+(groom), by name Peewa, they were all soon corrupted, though some had
+been with me for years. Seewa once said to me, "The influence here
+is so bad, that we too shall be corrupted if we stay long." Seewa was
+quite a character. One day I got a letter from one of his relations,
+asking me to tell him that his wife was dead. I remembered her well;
+it was a love match, and she had run away with him. I feared it would
+be such a blow, that I felt quite nervous about telling him, and put it
+off till the evening, when, with a faltering voice, I broke the news as
+gently as I could. Instead of the outburst of grief I had looked for,
+he quietly asked, "What did she die of?" I said, "Fever." He replied,
+"Oh, yes, I thought it must be that. Will you write and see that all
+her property is made over to my brother, otherwise some of her people
+may steal it?"
+
+The state of things at Samagudting was very discouraging. I resented
+seeing the Government and the establishment being charged famine prices
+for everything, by the Nagas and Khyahs; also the general squalor which
+prevailed, and which I felt need not exist. It was the inheritance
+of the hand-to-mouth system in which everything had been commenced
+in early days. However, my wife set me an example of cheerfulness,
+and I made up my mind to remedy all the evils I could. First, the
+supply system was attacked, and I made arrangements with some old
+Khyah friends at Golaghat, to send up large supplies of rice and
+other kinds of food, and as the season advanced, I encouraged such of
+the military police as could be spared to take up land at Dimapur,
+and cultivate. For ourselves, I bought two cows at Borpathar, and
+established them at Nichu Guard, whence my gardener brought up the milk
+every day. In a short time we were more comfortable than could have
+been expected, and there was the additional satisfaction of seeing
+that the arrangements for cheaper food for the establishment proved
+successful. Water was the standing difficulty; we had to depend upon
+the caprice of the Naga water-carriers, and frequently my wife's
+bath, filled ready for the next morning, had to be emptied in the
+evening to provide water for cooking our evening meal! Sometimes I
+got clean water for drinking from the Diphoo Panee, otherwise what
+we had was as if it had been taken from a dirty puddle. The want
+of water prevented our having a garden near our house; we had a few
+hardy flowers, including the shoe-flower--a kind of hibiscus--roses,
+and passion-flower. Such vegetable-garden as we had was at Nichu Guard,
+where the soil was good, and water plentiful.
+
+Our house was watertight, and that was the best that could be said
+for it. It was thatched, with walls of split bamboos and strengthened
+by wooden posts; there were no glass windows, and the doors and
+shutters were of split bamboo tied together; the mud floor was also
+covered with thin split bamboos, and had to be swept constantly,
+as the dust worked through. We had one sitting-room, a bed-room,
+bath-room, pantry, and store-room, the latter full of rats. Snakes
+occasionally visited us, and a day or two after we had settled in,
+a cat rushed in while we were at breakfast, jumped on my knee and
+took away the meat from my plate, and bit and scratched me when I
+tried to catch her. My dressing-room was the shade of a tree outside,
+where I bathed Anglo-Indian camp fashion, substituting a large hollow
+bamboo for the usual mussuk, or skin of water.
+
+We arrived at Samagudting on January 23rd, 1874, and by the beginning
+of February felt quite old residents; hill-walking no longer tired me,
+and we had made acquaintance with all the Nagas of the village, and of
+many others, and were on quite friendly terms with "Jatsolé," the chief
+of Samagudting, a shrewd far-seeing man, with great force of character.
+
+I have mentioned the Burrail range, and the valley separating
+us. Besides Samagudting there were two other villages on our side,
+Sitekima, on the opposite bank of the Diphoo Panee Gorge, and
+Tesephima, on outlying spurs of Samagudting. I say Samagudting,
+as it has become the common appellation, but correctly speaking it
+should be Chumookodima.
+
+On the side of the Burrail facing us, were villages belonging to
+a tribe we call Kutcha Nagas, a race inferior in fighting power to
+the Angamis, but not unlike them in appearance, though of inferior
+physique. These villages were formerly inhabited by Cacharees. [8]
+
+On February 4th, I had a letter from Captain Butler, saying that
+he would be at Kohima in a day or two, and asking me to meet him
+there. He said that three of the police would be a sufficient escort. I
+accordingly took three men, and started on the 6th, marching to Piphima
+twenty-one miles, and the next morning another twenty-one into Kohima,
+two very hard marches. I was glad to renew my acquaintance with Butler,
+whom I had known when he first landed in India in 1861, and I was in
+Fort William, studying for my Hindustani examination. He was a fine
+manly fellow, admirably fitted to conduct an expedition, where pluck
+and perseverance were required. Here, I also met Dr. Brown, Political
+Agent of Manipur, and Captain (now Colonel) Badgley and Lieutenant
+(now Colonel C.B.) Woodthorpe, R.E., of the survey, also Lieutenant
+(now Major V.C.) Ridgeway, 44th N.I., I spent a pleasant evening,
+discussing various subjects with Captain Butler, and early on the
+8th started on my return journey.
+
+Captain Butler had done the whole forty-two miles into Samagudting
+in one day, and I determined to attempt it, and succeeded, though
+the last 2000 feet of ascent to my house was rather hard, tired as I
+was. My wife did not expect me, but I had arranged to fire three shots
+from my rifle as a signal, if I arrived at any time by night; this I
+did about 500 feet below my house, and I at once saw lanterns appear
+far above me, and in a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes, I was
+at my door. The sound of firing at 9 P.M. created quite a sensation
+among the weak-nerved ones on the hill, but it was good practice for
+the sentries to be kept on the alert. Ever after, three shots from
+a rifle or a revolver, were always my signal when I neared home,
+and often in after years were they heard in the dead of night, when
+I was thought to be miles away. My wife used to say that it kept the
+people in good order, never knowing when to expect me. I think it did.
+
+Life was never monotonous. I took long walks, after our morning
+walk round the hill, to inspect roads and bridges--a very important
+work. Then I attended Cutcherry (the court of justice) and heard cases,
+often with a loaded revolver in my hand, in case of any wild savage
+attempting to dispute my authority; then I finished off revenue work,
+of which there was little, and went home, had a cup of tea, visited
+hospitals and gaol, if I had not already done so; and afterwards
+went for an evening walk with my wife, round the hill or through
+the village.
+
+Sometimes duty took me to the plains, and we had a most delightful
+march to the Nambor hot springs, when I arranged to have a rest
+house built at Nowkatta, between Dimapur and Hurreo Jan. We reached
+the last place, just after a dreadful catastrophe had occurred. The
+rest house was raised on posts, six feet above the ground. One night
+when the man carrying the dak (post) had arrived from Borpathar,
+he hung up the letter bag under the house on a peg, and having had
+his evening meal, retired to rest in the house with one or two other
+travellers. Suddenly a huge tiger rushed up the steps, sprang through
+the open door, and seizing one of the sleepers, bounded off into
+the forest with him. One of my police who was there snatched up his
+rifle, pursued the tiger and fired, making him drop the man, but life
+was extinct, and when we arrived, there was a huge bloodstain on the
+floor, at least a yard long. Strange to say, the letter bag was on one
+occasion carried off by a tiger, but afterwards recovered, uninjured
+save by tooth marks. The policeman was promoted for his gallantry.
+
+The day after leaving Hurreo Jan, we met a party of Rengma Nagas coming
+to see me, with some little presents. They were the men who helped to
+kill the panther, that wounded me in 1862, [9] and they brought with
+them the son of one of their number, who was killed by the infuriated
+beast, a fine lad of fifteen; needless to say, that I rewarded these
+friendly people, whom I had not seen for twelve years. We halted a
+day or two at the springs, as I had to visit Golaghat on business,
+and unfortunately missed seeing a herd of wild elephants caught, a
+sight I had wished my wife to see. She did see the stockade, but the
+elephants had been already taken out. I hope farther on to describe
+an elephant drive.
+
+I do not know a more agreeable place to halt at than the hot springs
+in former days. In cold weather before the mosquitoes had arrived
+it was perfect rest. A little opening in the tall dark forest, in
+the centre some scrub jungle, including fragrant wild lemons and
+citrons, with the pool in the midst; a babbling stream flowed all
+round the opening, on the other side of which was a high bank. The
+bathing was delightful, and could be made quite private for ladies,
+by means of a cloth enclosure, well known to the Assamese by the name
+of "Âr Kapôr." Then the occasional weird cry of the hoolook ape, and
+the gambols of numerous monkeys in the tall trees on the high bank,
+gave plenty of interest to the scene, had the general aspect of the
+place failed in its attractions.
+
+Soon after our return to headquarters, the survey party arrived
+from the interior of the hills, and after a few days' rest, departed
+for their summer quarters. Captain Butler then started for England,
+and Mr. Needham came in to Samagudting.
+
+Thus left in charge for a considerable period, I felt justified
+in doing more than I should have done, had my stay only been of
+a temporary nature, and I went most thoroughly into all questions
+connected with the hills and their administration. My long experience
+in charge of a native state full of wild hill tribes, and my personal
+knowledge of many of the Naga and other wild tribes of Assam (a
+knowledge that went back as far as 1860), were a great help to me,
+as I was consequently not new to the work. The eastern frontier had
+always been to my mind the most interesting field of work in India,
+and now it was for me to learn all I could.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Historical events connected with Manipur and the Naga
+    Hills--Different tribes--Their religion--Food and customs.
+
+
+Shortly after my arrival at Samagudting, I received a cheering letter,
+just when I most needed it, from my old friend Wynne, then Acting
+Foreign Secretary, saying, "Don't be too disappointed at not receiving
+a better appointment than the Naga Hills. You will have plenty of
+good work to do, and you will increase your already very extensive
+knowledge of wild tribes." It was the last letter I ever received
+from him, as cholera quickly carried him off, and I lost in him one
+of the kindest friends I ever had, one who had constantly interested
+himself in my work, and given me advice. Such a friend would have been
+invaluable now. Our position in the Naga Hills was an anxious one, and
+can only be properly realised by knowing the course of previous events.
+
+Our first acquaintance with the Nagas practically began in 1832, when
+Captain Jenkins and Lieutenant Pemberton escorted by Rajah Ghumbeer
+Singh's Manipur troops, forced a passage through the hills with a view
+to ascertaining if there were a practicable route into Assam. They
+came viâ Paptongmai and Samagudting to Mohong Deejood. There is every
+reason to believe that the Manipuris in former days did penetrate
+into the Naga Hills, and exacted tribute when they felt strong enough
+to do so. All the villages have Manipur names in addition to their
+own. But during the period of her decadence, just before and during
+the Burmese War of 1819-25, any influence Manipur may have possessed
+fell into abeyance. At that time it was re-asserted, and Ghumbeer Singh
+reduced several villages to submission, including the largest of all,
+Kohima, at which place he stood upon a stone and had his footprints
+sculptured on it, in token of conquest. This was set up in a prominent
+position, together with an upright stone bearing carved figures and
+an inscription.
+
+The Nagas greatly respected this stone and cleaned it from time to
+time. They opened a large trade with Manipur, and whenever a Manipuri
+visited a Naga village he was treated as an honoured guest, at a time
+when a British subject could not venture into the interior without
+risk of being murdered.
+
+Even up to the Naga Hills campaign of 1879-80, the Nagas regarded
+Manipur as the greater power of the two, because her conduct was
+consistent; if she threatened, she acted. One British subject after
+another might be murdered with impunity, but woe betide the village
+that murdered a subject of Manipur. A force of Manipuris was instantly
+despatched, the village was attacked, destroyed, and ample compensation
+exacted. The system answered well for Manipur; many of the Nagas began
+to speak Manipuri, and several villages paid an annual tribute. Still,
+up to 1851, we considered that we had some shadowy claim to the hills,
+though we never openly asserted it.
+
+I may as well give a short account of the different tribes inhabiting
+the Naga Hills district when I took charge. The oldest were--
+
+
+
+CACHAREES.
+
+Their origin is obscure. They are first met with in the north-east
+portion of the Assam Valley between the Muttuk country and Sudya. Round
+the last in the vast forests, there are numerous ruins ascribed by the
+people to the Cacharee Rajahs, built of substantial brickwork. I have
+not seen any sculptured stonework, but it may exist. The traditions
+give no clue to their original home, which was probably in Thibet. From
+the neighbourhood of Sudya they penetrated down the valley, leaving
+buildings and remnants of their tribes here and there, notably in
+the Durrung district. The main body were, for a time settled in the
+neighbourhood of Dimapur, and the country lying between it and Doboka,
+the Cachar district, but when they arrived or how long they stayed we
+have no means of ascertaining. They occupied the first two or three
+ranges of the Burrails and stoutly contested possession with the
+Naga invaders, and after they had been dispossessed made a gallant
+attempt to retrieve their affairs by an attack on Sephema. They
+entered the hills by the Diphoo gorge and constructed a paved road
+up to the neighbourhood of Sephema where they would probably have
+succeeded in their operations, but that the Sephema Nagas, skilful
+then as now, in the use of poison, poisoned the waters and destroyed
+a large portion of the invaders; the rest retreated to Dimapur, and
+eventually left the neighbourhood and settled in Cachar, to which they
+gave their name. There are still a good many Cacharees on the banks
+of the Kopiti, in the neighbourhood of Mohung-dee-jood. They are a
+fine hardy race, and in my time the Naga Hills police was largely
+recruited from them. Under Captain Butler they did good service,
+and would have gone anywhere when led by him. [10] The Cacharees were
+governed formerly by a race of despotic chiefs.
+
+
+
+KUKIS.
+
+The Kukis are a wandering race consisting of several tribes who
+have long been working up from the South. They were first heard
+of as Kukis, in Manipur, between 1830 and 1840; though tribes of
+the same race had long been subject to the Rajah of Manipur. The
+new immigrants began to cause anxiety about the year 1845, and
+soon poured into the hill tracts of Manipur in such numbers, as to
+drive away many of the older inhabitants. Fortunately, the political
+agent (at this time Lieutenant afterwards Colonel McCulloch) [11]
+was a man well able to cope with the situation. Cool and resolute,
+he at once realised and faced the difficulty. Manipur in those days,
+owing to intestine quarrels, could have done nothing, and the Rajah
+Nur Singh gladly handed over the management of the new arrivals to him.
+
+Seeing that the Kukis had been driven north by kindred but more
+powerful tribes, and that their first object was to secure land for
+cultivation; McCulloch, as they arrived, settled them down, allotting
+to them lands in different places according to their numbers, and where
+their presence would be useful on exposed frontiers. He advanced them
+large sums from his own pocket, assigning different duties to each
+chief's followers. Some were made into irregular troops, others were
+told off to carry loads according to the customs of the state. Thus
+in time many thousands of fierce Kukis were settled down as peaceful
+subjects of Manipur, and Colonel McCulloch retained supreme control
+over them to the last. So great was his influence, that he had only
+to send round his silver mounted dao (Burmese sword) as a kind of
+fiery cross, when all able-bodied men at once assembled at his summons.
+
+Colonel McCulloch's policy of planting Kuki settlements on exposed
+frontiers, induced the Government of Bengal to try a similar
+experiment, and a large colony of Kukis were settled in 1855 in
+the neighbourhood of Langting, to act as a barrier for North Cachar
+against the raids of the Angami Nagas. The experiment answered well
+to a certain extent, and would have answered better, had we been
+a little less timid. The Kukis are strictly monarchical, and their
+chiefs are absolutely despotic, and may murder or sell their subjects
+into slavery without a murmur of dissent. Their original home cannot
+be correctly ascertained, but there seem to be traces of them as
+far south as the Malay peninsula. They are readily distinguishable
+from the Nagas, and are braver men. Their women are often very fair,
+and wear their hair in a long thick plait down the back. The men are
+mostly copper coloured, and have often good features.
+
+
+
+KUTCHA NAGAS.
+
+The tribe we call Kutcha Nagas, very much resemble the Angamis,
+though of inferior physique. They are closely allied to the Nagas
+in Manipur, as well as to the Angamis, and probably were pushed in
+front of the latter from the Northern North-East, as the Kukis were
+forced in by the pressure of stronger tribes to their South. They
+have always been less warlike than their powerful neighbours, though
+they could be troublesome at times.
+
+
+
+ANGAMI NAGAS.
+
+A strong built, hardy, active race, the men averaging 5 feet 8 inches
+to 6 feet in height, and the women tall in proportion. In colour they
+vary from a rich brown to a yellowish or light brown. They have a
+manly independent bearing, and are bred up to war from their earliest
+years. While the Kukis are monarchists, the Nagas are republicans,
+and their Peumahs, or chiefs, are elected, and though they often
+have great influence, they are in theory, only primus inter pares,
+and are liable at any time to be displaced. Practically they often
+remain in office for years, and are greatly respected.
+
+Where the Angamis came from must be uncertain till the languages
+of our Eastern frontier are scientifically analysed. The late
+Mr. Damant, a man of great talent and powers of research, had
+a valuable paper regarding them in hand, but it perished in the
+insurrection of 1879. The probability is, that they came originally
+from the south-eastern corner of Thibet.
+
+Some of the Maories of New Zealand reminded me of the Angamis. The
+well-defined nose is a prominent characteristic of the last,
+as it is of some of the inhabitants of Polynesia. The people of
+Samagudting--that is, the adults in 1874--told me that they had come
+from the north-east, and were the seventh generation that had been
+there. When they first occupied their village, the site was, they
+said, covered with the bones and tusks of elephants which had come
+there to die.
+
+Had I lived longer among the Nagas, I should have liked to have made
+deeper researches into their language and past history; as it was,
+all my time was taken up with my active duties, and I had not a moment
+to spare.
+
+Their dress is a short kilt of black cotton cloth, ornamented, in
+the case of warriors, with rows of cowrie shells. They have handsome
+cloths of dark blue and yellow thrown over their shoulders in cold
+weather. Their arms are spears and heavy short swords, called by the
+Assamese name of dao; helmets and shields of wicker work (used chiefly
+to cover the more vulnerable parts of the body) and sometimes clothed
+with skins of tigers or bears. They have also tails of wood decorated
+with goats' hair dyed red. The warspears are plain; the ornamental
+ones are covered with goats' hair dyed red, and are sometimes used in
+battle. Their drill is of a most complicated style, and requires much
+practice. An Angami in full war paint is a very formidable-looking
+individual. They are divided into many clans. Several clans often
+inhabit one village, and it frequently happened that two clans thus
+situated were at deadly feud with each other.
+
+Blood feuds were common among all the hill-tribes, but the system
+was carried to excess among the Angamis. Life for life was the rule,
+and until each of the opposing parties had lost an equal number,
+peace was impossible, and whenever members of one village met any
+belonging to the other, hostilities were sure to result. Sometimes
+an attempt was made to bring about a reconciliation, but then it
+frequently happened that the number of slain to the credit of each
+were unequal. Mozuma and Sephema might be at war, and Mozuma killed
+five, whereas Sephema had killed only four. Sephema says, "I must
+kill one more to make the balance, then I will treat for peace,"
+so war continues. Some day Sephema has a chance, but kills two
+instead of the one that was required; this gives her the advantage,
+and Mozuma refuses to treat. So it goes on interminably. The position
+of a small village at war with a large one, was often deplorable as
+no one dared to leave the village except under a strong escort. I
+once knew a case of some Sephema men at feud with Mozuma, hiring two
+women of the powerful village of Konoma to escort them along the road
+as thus accompanied no one dare touch them.
+
+Once at Piphima, when my assistant Mr. Needham was encamped there,
+parties from two hostile villages suddenly met each other and rushed
+to arms. He was equal to the occasion and stopped the combat. I made
+it a criminal offence to fight on our road called the "Political Path,"
+and it was generally respected as neutral ground.
+
+No Angami could assume the "toga virilis," in this case the kilt
+ornamented with cowrie shells, already described, until he had slain
+an enemy, and in the more powerful villages no girl could marry a man
+unless he was so decorated. The cowrie ornaments were taken off when
+a man was mourning the death of a relation.
+
+To kill a baby in arms, or a woman, was accounted a greater feat
+than killing a man, as it implied having penetrated to the innermost
+recesses of an enemy's country, whereas a man might be killed anywhere
+by a successful ambush. I knew a man who had killed sixty women and
+children, when on one occasion he happened to come upon them after
+all the men had left the village on a hunting expedition.
+
+Every Naga who was able to murder an enemy did so, and received great
+commendation for it by all his friends. Later, when I was in Manipur,
+I had a pleasant young fellow as interpreter. He often took my boys
+out for a walk when he had nothing else to do, and was a careful,
+trustworthy man. Once I asked him how many people he had killed (he
+wore the cowrie kilt, a sure sign he had killed some one). A modest
+blush suffused his face as if he did not like to boast of such a good
+deed, and he mildly said, "Two, a woman and a girl!"
+
+The Angamis when on friendly terms are an agreeable people to deal
+with, polite, courteous, and hospitable. I never knew any one take
+more pains or more successfully not to hurt the susceptibilities of
+those they are talking to, indeed they show a tact and good feeling
+worthy of imitation. My wife and I soon knew all the villagers well,
+and often visited them, when we were always offered beer, and asked to
+come into their verandahs and sit down, and just as we were leaving,
+our host would search the hen's nests to give us a few eggs. The beer
+we never took, but many Europeans like it and find it wholesome. It
+is made of rice and has rather a sharp taste. Their houses are large
+substantial structures built of wood and bamboo thatched with grass,
+and the eaves come low down. Houses with any pretensions always
+have verandahs. Besides the houses, there are granaries, often at
+a distance for fear of fire. The Angamis bury their dead in and
+about their villages, and for a time, decorate them with some of the
+belongings of the deceased. Naturally they strongly object to the
+graves being disturbed, and in making alterations I was careful not
+to hurt their feelings.
+
+The more powerful villages in the interior of the hills have a large
+area of cultivation on terraces cut out of the hillside, and carefully
+irrigated. Some of the terraces go up the hillsides to a great height,
+and show considerable skill in their formation. On these terraces
+lowland rice is grown and is very productive. Some of the smaller
+outlying villages like Samagudting have only ordinary hill cultivation,
+where upland rice is grown. The terrace land used to be greatly valued,
+and was often sold at prices equal to £22 to £25 per acre!
+
+The Angamis, in common with most hill-tribes that I have come across,
+have a vague indefinite belief in a supreme being, but look on him as
+too great and good to injure them. They believe themselves also to be
+subject to the influence of evil spirits, whom it is their constant
+endeavour to appease by sacrifices. Every misfortune is, as a rule,
+ascribed to evil spirits, and much money is spent on appeasing them,
+the usual way being to offer fowls, of which the head, feet, and
+entrails are offered to the demon, with many incantations. The other
+parts are eaten by the sacrificer.
+
+All kinds of animals are readily eaten by the Angamis, and those dying
+a natural death are not rejected. Dogs' flesh is highly esteemed. When
+a man wants to have a delicate dish, he starves his dog for a day to
+make him unusually voracious, and then cooks a huge dish of rice on
+which he feeds the hungry beast. As soon as the dog has eaten his
+fill, he is knocked on the head and roasted, cut up and divided,
+and the rice being taken out, is considered the bonne bouche. The
+Manipur dogs are regularly bred for sale to the hill-tribes, Nagas
+included, and a portion of the bazaar, or market, used to be allotted
+to them. I have seen a string of nineteen dogs being led away to be
+strangled. Poor things, they seemed to realise that all was not well.
+
+The Naga women are not handsome but very pleasant-looking, and
+many of the girls are pretty, but soon age with the hard toil they
+have to perform; working in the fields and carrying heavy loads up
+endless hills. They have plenty of spirit and can generally hold
+their own. They do not marry till they are nearly or quite grown
+up. Divorce can be easily obtained when there is an equal division of
+goods. Often a young man takes advantage of this, and marries a rich
+old widow, and soon divorces her, receiving half her property, when he
+is in a position to marry a nice young girl. The tribal name of the
+Angami Nagas is "Tengima." Naga is a name given by the inhabitants
+of the plains, and in the Assamese language means "naked." As some
+of the Naga tribes are seen habitually in that state, the name was
+arbitrarily applied to them all. It is the greatest mistake to connect
+them with the snake worshippers, "Nag Bungsees" of India. Neither Nagas
+or Manipuris, or any tribes on the eastern frontier, are addicted to
+this worship, or have any traditions connected with it, and any snake,
+cobra (Nag) or otherwise, would receive small mercy at their hands. The
+slightest personal acquaintance with the Assamese and their language,
+would have dispelled this myth for ever.
+
+The Nagas are skilful iron-workers and turn out very handsome
+spears. Their women weave substantial and pretty coloured cloths,
+and every man knows enough of rough carpentering to enable him to
+build his house, and make pestles and mortars for husking rice. They
+make rough pottery, but without the potter's wheel.
+
+After Ghumbeer Singh's Expedition, our next dealings with the Angamis
+were in 1833, when Lieut. Gordon, adjutant of the Manipur Levy,
+accompanied the Rajah of Manipur with a large force of Manipuris into
+the Angami hills. On this occasion, Kohima and other villages were
+subdued, as already stated, and an annual tribute exacted by Manipur.
+
+So far as the British territories were concerned, Naga raids went
+on as usual, but nothing was done till early in January 1839, when
+Mr. Grange, sub-Assistant Commissioner of the Nowgong District,
+was despatched with a detachment of the First Assam Sebundies (now
+43rd Goorkha Light Infantry), fifty men of the Cachar Infantry,
+and some Shan Militia, with orders to try and repress these annual
+outrages. His expedition was ill supplied, but fortunately returned
+without any severe losses. His route lay through North Cachar to
+Berrimeh; thence, viâ Razepima to Samagudting and Mohung Deejood;
+beyond gaining local knowledge there was no result, except perhaps
+to show that a well-armed party could march where it liked through
+the hills.
+
+In December 1839, Mr. Grange again visited the hills, and, excepting
+1843, an expedition was sent into the hills every year till 1846
+when a post was permanently established at Samagudting. None of these
+expeditions had any really satisfactory result. The Angamis submitted
+to our troops at the time, and directly we retreated, murder and the
+carrying off of slaves re-commenced. The establishment of the post
+at Samagudting had the effect of improving our relations with the
+people of that village; and Mozuma was always inclined to be friendly;
+beyond this nothing was accomplished.
+
+In August 1849, Bog Chand Darogal, a brave Assamese who was in charge
+of Samagudting, was murdered by one of the clans of Mozuma, owing
+to the rash way in which he interfered in a dispute with another
+clan, which latter remained faithful to us, and thus led to another
+expedition on a large scale. Finally, in December 1850, a large force
+was sent up with artillery. Kohima, which had sent a challenge, was
+destroyed on February 11th, 1851. In this last engagement over three
+hundred Nagas were killed, and our prestige thoroughly established. We
+might then, with great advantage to the people and our own districts,
+have occupied a permanent post, and while protecting our districts
+that had suffered so sorely from Naga raids, have spread civilisation
+far and wide among the hill-tribes. Of course we did nothing of the
+kind; on such occasions the Government of India always does the wrong
+thing; it was done now, and, instead of occupying a new position,
+we retreated, even abandoning our old post at Samagudting, and only
+maintaining a small body of Shan Militia at Dimapur. The Nagas ascribed
+our retreat to fear, the periodical raids on our unfortunate villages
+were renewed, and unheeded by us; and finally, in 1856, we withdrew
+the detachment from Dimapur and abandoned the post.
+
+After that, the Nagas ran riot, and one outrage after another was
+committed. In 1862 the guard and village of Borpathar were attacked
+and, one Sepoy and thirteen villagers killed and two children carried
+off as slaves, but no notice was taken; it was not till 1866 that,
+wearied out by repeated outrages and insults, we determined to
+establish ourselves in the hills, and once for all put down raiding.
+
+A kind of vague boundary between Manipur and the Naga Hills had been
+laid down in 1842, by Lieutenant Biggs on our part, and Captain Gordon
+on the part of the Durbar, but in 1851, when utterly sick of Naga
+affairs, we determined on a policy of non-intervention, permission in
+writing was given to the Durbar to extend its authority over the Naga
+villages on our side of the border. This must be remembered later
+on. Failing any intention on our part to annex the hills, it would
+have been good policy to have re-organised the Manipur territory,
+and to have aided the Maharajah to annex and subdue as much as he
+could under certain restrictions. Had this been done we should have
+saved ourselves much trouble. Personally, I would rather see the
+Naga Hills properly administered by ourselves, but the strong rule
+of Manipur would have been far better than the state of things that
+prevailed for many years after 1851.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Value of keeping a promise--Episode of Sallajee--Protection given
+    to small villages, and the large ones defied--"Thorough Government
+    of India" views--A plea for Christian education in the Naga Hills.
+
+
+Almost from the day I took charge, I let it be known that I was,
+as natives say, "a man of one word," and that if I said a thing,
+I meant it. If I promised a thing, whether a present or punishment,
+the man got it; and if I refused any request, months of importunity
+would not move me. This rule saved me much time and worry; instead
+of being pestered for weeks with some petition, in the hope that my
+patience would be worn out, I simply said Yes, or No, and the people
+soon learned that my decision was final. Later on, during the Naga
+Hills campaign, I found that my ways had not been forgotten, and this
+made dealing with the people much simpler than it might have been.
+
+A certain number of the villages kept one or two men, as the case
+might be, constantly in attendance on me to represent them. These were
+called delegates, and received ten rupees each per mensem. I gave the
+strictest orders to these men not to engage in their tribal raids,
+but to remain absolutely neutral. Sephema had two delegates, Sejile
+and Sallajee by name, and, one day, it was reported to me that the
+last had joined in a raid by his village on Mozuma, and I instantly
+summoned him to attend and put him on his trial for disobeying a lawful
+order. Some wise-acres in the place shook their heads, and doubted if
+I were strong enough to punish, or the advisability of doing so; but
+I held that an order must be obeyed, otherwise, it was no use issuing
+orders, also, that this was an opportunity of making an example. Of
+course it was an experiment, as no one had been punished before for
+a similar offence, and I well knew that resistance on his part would
+mean that to assert my authority I must attack and destroy Sephema,
+but I felt the time had come for vigorous action, and was prepared to
+go through with it. I tried Sallajee, found him guilty, and sentenced
+him to six months' imprisonment in Tezpore jail. In giving judgment,
+I said, "You have not been guilty of a disgraceful offence, therefore,
+I do not sentence you to hard labour, and shall not have you bound or
+handcuffed like a thief; but, remember, you cannot escape me, so do
+not be foolish enough to run away from the man in charge of you." I
+then sent him in charge of two police sepoys through one hundred miles
+of forest, and he underwent his imprisonment without attempting to get
+away. Right thankful I was that my experiment succeeded. Sallajee lived
+to fight against us, during the campaign in the Naga Hills in 1879-80.
+
+The orders of the Government of India were strictly against our
+responsibilities being extended. We took tribute from Samagudting,
+but it was the only village we considered as under our direct rule,
+and that only so long as it suited us. Before leaving Calcutta, the
+Foreign Secretary said to me emphatically, when I urged an extension
+of our sway--"but those villages (the Angami Nagas) are not British
+territory, and we do not want to extend the 'red line.'"
+
+However, Government may lay down rules, but as long as they are not
+sound, they cannot be kept to by artificial bonds, and sooner or later
+events prove stronger than theories. The fact is, that no Government of
+late years had ever interested itself in the Eastern Frontier tribes,
+except so far as to coax them or bribe them to keep quiet. The Abors
+on the banks of the Burrhampooter had long been paid "blackmail,"
+and any subterfuge was resorted to, that would stave off the day of
+reckoning which was nevertheless inevitable.
+
+As regards the Nagas, this timidity was highly reprehensible. We had
+acquired such a prestige, that the least sign of vigorous action on
+our part was sure to be crowned with success, so long as we did not
+make some foolish mistake.
+
+The people in the hills knew that we objected to the system of raiding,
+and could not understand why, such being the case, we did not put it
+down, and ascribed our not doing so to weakness, wherein they were
+right, and inability wherein they were wrong. The less powerful
+villages would at any time have been glad of our protection, and
+one of the most powerful--Mozuma, was anxious to become subject to
+us. Offers of submission had been made once or twice, but no one liked
+to take the responsibility of going against the policy and orders
+of the Government. At last an event occurred which brought things
+to a crisis, and forced us either to adopt a strong policy, or make
+ourselves contemptible by a confession of weakness, and indifference.
+
+Towards the end of March 1874, a deputation came to me from the
+village of Mezeffina begging for protection against Mozuma, with whom
+they had a feud, and from whom for some reason or other they daily
+expected an attack. They offered to become British subjects and pay
+revenue in return for protection. I considered the matter carefully,
+and before I had given my decision, crowds of old people, and women
+carrying their children, came in asking me to save their lives. I at
+once decided to grant their request, and promised them what they asked,
+on condition that they paid up a year's tribute in advance. This they
+at once did, and I immediately sent a messenger to proclaim to Mozuma
+that the people of Mezeffina were British subjects, and to threaten
+them or any one else with dire vengeance if they dared to lay hands
+on them. Our new subjects asked me and my wife, to go out and receive
+their submission in person, an invitation which we accepted, and next
+day a large number of men turned up to carry my wife, and our baggage,
+and that of our escort, consisting of twenty men.
+
+The Mezeffina men rested for the night in Samagudting, and early on
+the following morning we started, and reached the village in good
+time, where we were received with great demonstrations of respect. We
+spent the night there, and then were conveyed back to Samagudting,
+after a very pleasant visit.
+
+I did not underrate the grave responsibility that I incurred in
+going against the policy of Government, but I felt it was utterly
+impossible that I, as their representative, could quietly stand by,
+and see a savage massacre perpetrated, within sight of our station of
+Samagudting. There is no doubt that this would have speedily followed
+had I sent the people away without acceding to their wishes. Of course,
+I might have used my influence with Mozuma to prevent a raid in this
+particular instance, but that would have been giving protection, and,
+I argued, if we give protection, let us get a little revenue to help
+to pay for it. Why should all the advantage be on one side? Besides
+a half-and-half policy would never have succeeded. "Thorough" should
+be the motto of all who deal with savage and half-civilised races;
+a promise to refer to Government is of little avail when people are
+thinking of each other's blood. Action, immediate action, is what
+is required. A failure to realise this, brought on later the Mozuma
+expedition of 1877-78, in which a valuable officer lost his life.
+
+Besides the obvious objections I have pointed out, any attempt to make
+terms in favour of one village after another by negotiations with
+their adversaries, would have involved us in so many complications,
+that it would probably have ended in a combination against us.
+
+I reported the matter to Government, and before I could receive any
+answer, the village of Sitekima which had a feud with Sephema came
+in and asked for the same favour to be accorded to it, as had been
+granted to Mezeffina. I accordingly took them over on the same terms,
+and again issued a proclamation calling on all people to respect
+their rights as British subjects.
+
+Soon after I heard from the Chief Commissioner of Assam, directing
+me to take over no more villages without a reference. However, this
+could not be, there was no telegraph in those days, and the tide in
+favour of asking for our protection had set in in earnest, and must be
+taken at the flood. "Vestigia nulla retrorsum" there was no retreat;
+and having acted according to my judgment for the best interests of
+the State, I felt bound to take further responsibility on myself,
+when necessary. Accordingly when the little village of Phenina applied
+for protection and offered revenue, I at once acceded, and accepted
+their allegiance as British subjects, with the result that they were
+left in peace by their powerful neighbours, and had no more anxiety
+as to their safety. Phenina was followed by several other villages,
+to whom I granted the same terms.
+
+The Mozuma Nagas were always an intelligent set of men, and liked
+to be in the forefront of any movement. Seeing the part that other
+villages were taking, they came forward and offered to pay revenue,
+if we would establish a guard of police in their village, and set up
+a school for their children to attend. This was a question involving
+a considerable expenditure of money, and as they were not in need of
+protection, I felt that I could not accede to their request without
+further reference, but I sent on the proposal to Government with a
+strong recommendation that it should be adopted. The consideration of
+it was put off for a time, and when very tardily my recommendation
+was accepted, the Mozuma people had, as I predicted, changed their
+minds. Such cases are of constant occurrence. When will our rulers
+take the story of the Sibylline books to heart?
+
+The question of education generally, was one that greatly
+interested me, my success in Keonjhur [12] in the tributary Mehals
+of Orissa, where I had introduced schools, having been very great. In
+combination with other suggestions, I strongly urged the advisability
+of establishing a regular system of education, including religious
+instruction, under a competent clergyman of the Church of England. I
+pointed out that the Nagas had no religion; that they were highly
+intelligent and capable of receiving civilisation; that with it
+they would want a religion, and that we might just as well give
+them our own, and make them in that way a source of strength, by
+thus mutually attaching them to us. Failing this, I predicted that,
+following the example of other hill-tribes, they would sooner or later
+become debased Hindoos or Mussulmans, and in the latter case, as we
+knew by experience, be a constant source of trouble and annoyance,
+Mussulman converts in Assam and Eastern Bengal, being a particularly
+disagreeable and bigoted set. My suggestion did not find favour with
+the authorities, and I deeply regret it. A fine, interesting race
+like the Angamis, might, as a Christian tribe, occupy a most useful
+position on our Eastern Frontier, and I feel strongly that we are not
+justified in allowing them to be corrupted and gradually "converted"
+by the miserable, bigoted, caste-observing Mussulman of Bengal, men who
+have not one single good quality in common with the manly Afghans, and
+other real Mussulman tribes. I do not like to think it, but, unless we
+give the Nagas a helping hand in time, such is sure to be their fate,
+and we shall have ourselves to thank when they are utterly corrupted.
+
+The late General Dalton, C.S.I., when Commissioner of Chota Nagpure,
+did his utmost to aid Christian Mission among the wild Kols; his
+argument being like mine, that they wanted a religion, and that
+were they Christians, they would be a valuable counterpoise in time
+of trouble to the vast non-Christian population of Behar. In the
+same way it cannot be doubted, that a large population of Christian
+hill-men between Assam and Burmah, would be a valuable prop to the
+State. Properly taught and judiciously handled, the Angamis would
+have made a fine manly set of Christians, of a type superior to most
+Indian native converts, and probably devoted to our rule. As things
+stand at present, I fear they will be gradually corrupted and lose the
+good qualities, which have made them attractive in the past, and that,
+as time goes on, unless some powerful counter influence is brought to
+bear on them, they will adopt the vile, bigoted type of Mahommedanism
+prevalent in Assam and Cachar, and instead of becoming a tower of
+strength to us, be a perpetual weakness and source of annoyance. I
+earnestly hope that I may be wrong, and that their future may be as
+bright a one as I could wish for them.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Dimapur--A terrible storm--Cultivation--Aggression by Konoma--My
+    ultimatum--Konoma submits--Birth of a son--Forest flowers--A fever
+    patient--Proposed change of station--Leave Naga Hills--March
+    through the forest--Depredation by tigers--Calcutta--Return
+    to England.
+
+
+Once more before the weather began to be unpleasantly hot, we went
+down to Dimapur that I might inspect the road and a rest house being
+built at Nowkatta. Dimapur though hot, was pleasant enough in the
+evening, when I used to row my wife about on the large tank in a
+canoe which just held us both. We could see a few feet below the
+surface, the remains of the post set up when a tank is dedicated to
+the deity. This post is usually many feet above the water, but here
+it had rotted away from age. On a tree close to the rest house I shot
+a chestnut coloured flying squirrel.
+
+One sultry afternoon I rode out alone to Nowkatta. About half-way
+I was stopped by a sudden storm, one of the most terrific I have
+ever seen; the wind howled through the forest, and the trees swayed
+to and fro literally like blades of grass. As the storm increased,
+trees were torn up by the roots right and left, and some that were
+very firmly rooted were shattered in pieces. Many of these trees
+were 80 to 120 feet in height, and large in proportion, but the
+wind was so high that I never heard the sound of the crash. I hardly
+expected to escape being crushed by a falling tree, and nothing but
+the extreme activity of my pony, a little Manipuri, saved me. I was
+at length enabled to get on to Nowkatta, but as I returned, I had
+much difficulty in making my way through the masses of fallen trees
+which formed an obstacle often six feet in height, and I could only
+pass them by penetrating the dense underwood, and riding round one end.
+
+I returned to Dimapur later than I expected and drenched by the
+soaking rain. Next day we went back to Samagudting very glad to
+be again in a cooler atmosphere. We both paid for our visit to the
+lowlands in a sharp attack of intermittent fever. Luckily, my wife
+speedily recovered; but it told on my system, already saturated with
+malaria and was the forerunner of constant attacks.
+
+Except for its unhealthiness, Dimapur was a nice place, and, if
+properly opened out, and cultivated, the country would be far more
+salubrious. For this reason I advocated families being induced to
+settle there as cultivators; and I had a scheme for establishing a
+Police Militia Reserve in that district. I thought that a certain
+number of the Naga Hills police might with advantage be discharged
+every year and enlisted as reserve men, liable to serve when needed
+in case of trouble; a reduced rate of pay to be given to each man,
+and a grant of land to cultivate. I believe the system would have
+worked well, but it was not sanctioned.
+
+An incident occurred in the month of August which might have proved
+serious. A native of a Kutcha Naga village within sight of Samagudting
+came to complain that, while gathering wild tea-seed for sale, he
+had been driven off by a Konoma Naga. Konoma, though not the most
+populous village, had long been considered the most powerful and
+warlike in the hills, and a threat from one of its members was almost a
+sentence of death to a man from a weak village. The Merema clan also,
+one of the worst in the hills for lawless deeds, had never made its
+submission to Captain Butler, though it had on one occasion to his
+predecessor. On hearing the man's complaint, I at once sent off a
+message by a Naga calling upon the chiefs of Konoma to come in to me,
+and also to cease molesting their neighbours; but the man returned,
+saying that they refused to come in, and intended to do as they liked
+with the tea-seed, as it was theirs. This was more than I could put up
+with, and I selected a particularly trustworthy man, a naik (corporal)
+in the police named Kurum Singh, [13] who knew the Naga language, and
+would, I was convinced, speak out fearlessly, and deliver my message. I
+sent him off at once to Konoma to call upon the head-men to come in
+without delay, and make their humble submission to me within a day
+and a half of receiving the summons, failing which I would attack and
+destroy their village. Kurum Singh left, and I felt rather anxious,
+as Konoma contained five times as many warriors as I had police all
+told, and it occupied a strong position; however, I felt I had done
+my duty. It was a great satisfaction when Kurum Singh returned,
+saying that the chiefs were coming in, and they did so within the
+stipulated time, and made their submission and presented me with a
+large state spear as a token of it. They also humbly apologised and
+promised never to molest that Kutcha Naga village again; and when I
+spoke of the Queen, begged me to write to her and say, that she must
+not believe any idle tales against the Konoma men, as they would be
+her humble servants. It was a satisfactory ending to what might have
+been a troublesome business. The state spear now ornaments my hall.
+
+On the 23rd June, my wife presented me with a son, and he being the
+first child of pure European parentage born in the hills, the Nagas
+of Samagudting took great interest in the baby, and old Yatsolé the
+Péumah, said he should be their chief and named him "Naga Rajah." The
+friendly women and girls from the village constantly came to see
+him. We liked the hills and the people, and the work so much that we
+both felt we could willingly have passed our lives among them. All
+the same, our accommodation was really most wretched, and food was
+bad and scarce, and water scarcer. As the rainy season advanced the
+place grew more and more unhealthy, and having a baby to attend to,
+my wife never left Samagudting. I continued to go down to Dimapur
+occasionally, and sometimes rode out with my friend Needham to inspect
+the path that was being cut to Mohung Deejood and a rest house being
+built at a place in the forest on that road, called Borsali. It was
+pleasant to have a companion during a long lonely ride. Needham was an
+indefatigable worker, and always ready for a dash. He made a capital
+frontier officer, and has since greatly distinguished himself on the
+N.-E. Frontier.
+
+Towards the end of August, the Vanda Cærulea orchids began to come
+into flower. There was a magnificent plant of them in a large old tree
+on the summit of the hill, indeed the most splendid specimen of their
+kind that I ever saw; but wild flowers, many really beautiful, were
+generally procurable, especially a small snow-white flower rather like
+a periwinkle that grew in the jungle on a small ever-green bush. Ferns,
+including maidenhair, were very plentiful, and we made collections
+of them in our morning and evening walks. These walks often led us
+past stray huts, and once my wife was asked to come into one and
+prescribe for a sick Naga woman. We both entered it and finding that
+the woman had fever, we told her husband to keep her cool and quiet,
+and promised some medicine. When we again went to see her, the hut,
+about nine feet by seven feet in size, was full of little fires on the
+floor, over which several Nagas were drying strips of flesh from an
+elephant that had been killed a few miles away. The temperature must
+have been about 110 degrees, so little wonder that the poor woman was
+no better. The husband said she would not take her medicine, and when
+in our presence he attempted to give it she hit him on the head; yet he
+wore the warrior's kilt, so had taken at least one life. When my wife
+sat down by her and gave her the medicine she took it readily. Towards
+the end of the rainy season many were laid low by fever. Natives of
+other parts of India until thoroughly acclimatised, suffer greatly
+from the diseases peculiar to jungle districts, and our servants were
+not exceptions to the rule. Once acclimatised, a Hindoostani seems
+able to stand anything. It used to be said in my regiment, the 1st
+Assam Light Infantry Battalion, now 42nd, that Hindoostani recruits
+spent their first three years' service in hospital! I am sure that
+something of the same kind might have been said of those who came to
+the Naga Hills before the headquarters were removed to Kohima.
+
+Captain Butler, recognising the unsuitableness of Samagudting for
+a station, had recommended the removal of the headquarters to Woka,
+in the Lotah Naga country, and about sixty-three miles from Kohima. I
+spoke to him on the subject, and pointed out the superior advantages of
+Kohima as a central position, dominating the Angami Naga country. He
+quite agreed with me, but said he had advocated Woka as being nearer
+the plains, nearer water carriage, and altogether a more comfortable
+situation, especially for the officers. I went into the whole subject
+most carefully, and before leaving the Naga Hills I thought it right to
+record my opinion in a memorandum to the Government of Assam. This I
+did, pointing out as forcibly as I could the very superior advantages
+of Kohima, and urging most strongly that it should be adopted as our
+headquarters station in the Naga Hills. As I was only the officiating
+agent, I could not expect my views to carry as much weight as Captain
+Butler's, but convinced as I was, I was bound to state them. The
+question was not settled for some years when Kohima was the site
+selected, and it has ever since been the headquarters station.
+
+I had never got over the attack of fever I had in April, and as
+the rainy season advanced, and we were for days together enveloped
+in mist, I had constant attacks, with other complications, and as
+Captain Butler was coming out in November, and the doctor strongly
+recommended me to go to England again, I determined to apply for
+leave. My friend Needham had gone on leave to Shillong, so I could
+not think of starting till he returned. He was due at Samagudting
+early in November, and I prepared to leave then. It was with most
+sincere regret that we made arrangements for starting. We had got
+used to the discomforts of the place and had been very happy there
+and liked the people, and felt that they liked us; the cold weather
+too was just beginning and everything around us looked beautiful.
+
+I had determined to march straight through the forest to Doboka, and
+thence take boat down the Kullung river to Gowhatty. It was a dreadful
+march to undertake, along a mere track untraversed by any European for
+years, but my wife liked the idea of it, and it was shorter than the
+route viâ Nigriting. On November 6th, we reluctantly said "good-bye"
+to all our kind friends at Samagudting and marched to Dimapur, where
+we halted next day to get all our things into order. Some of the
+chiefs of Samagudting accompanied us so far on our way and bade us a
+sorrowful adieu on the 7th. One old fellow took quite an affectionate
+farewell of our baby Dick. When I saw him again in 1879, he was blind,
+and one of his pretty little girls was dying.
+
+We marched through dense forest on the 8th to Borsali, my wife
+riding and carrying the baby in her arms, there being no other mode
+of progression along such a bad road. On the 9th after seven hours'
+actual marching, we reached Mohung Deejood, a place prettily situated
+on the banks of the Jumoona river with the last speck of the Rengma
+Hills standing out in high relief behind the village, but at some
+distance from it. Next day we again had a tiring march of eleven hours,
+including a halt for breakfast at a place called "Silbheta" where
+there are splendid waterfalls, and did not reach our halting place,
+Bokuleea, till 6 P.M. The last two marches had been through a country
+devastated by tigers which had literally eaten up the population; each
+day we passed deserted village sites. At Bokuleea we made rafts and
+floated down the river to Doboka, which we reached on November 13th.
+
+Doboka is situated close to the hill of the same name and was
+a prominent object from Samagudting. There we took boats, and
+travelled in them down the Kullung river. We reached the junction
+with the Burrhampooter at daybreak on November 17th, and Gowhatty
+at midday. I was most thankful to see my wife and child safe in the
+Dak Bungalow after what was for delicate people a perilous journey,
+though an interesting and enjoyable one, through a country hardly ever
+traversed by European officials, and never by women and children. After
+a few days at Gowhatty to rest ourselves, we departed by steamer for
+Goalundo, arriving there early on November 29th, and immediately left
+for Calcutta, which we reached the same evening and went to stay with
+our kind friends the Rivers Thompsons, with whom we had travelled
+out to India in 1873. Glad as we were to be in civilised quarters
+once more after all our wanderings, we could not help regretting the
+kindly genial people we had left, and the beautiful scenery of the
+forest and mountain land, where we had lived so long and so happily.
+
+On arrival in Calcutta, I went before the Medical Board, but not liking
+to go to England again so soon, I applied for three months' leave
+to visit the North-West Provinces for change of air, and we visited
+Benares, Lucknow, Cawnpore, and other towns. I do not attempt to
+describe them, as it has been often done by abler pens than mine. The
+after symptoms of malaria increased, and it was vain to prolong my stay
+in India in the hope of a cure. The Medical Board said my appearance
+was sufficient without examination, so we left Calcutta by the next
+steamer, going by "long sea" to avoid the fatiguing journey across
+India to Bombay. After unusually rough weather in the Mediterranean
+and off the coast of Spain, we landed at Southampton, on March 9th,
+at 9 P.M., and went on to London next morning.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Return to India--Attached to Foreign Office--Imperial assemblage at
+    Delhi--Almorah--Appointed to Manipur--Journey to Shillong--Cherra
+    Poojee--Colonel McCulloch--Question of ceremony.
+
+
+Malaria, and all the evils that follow in its train, are more easily
+acquired than got rid of. Possibly two years in England, including
+four visits to Carlsbad, which high medical authorities seem to
+consider, and very justly, a sine quâ non, might give a man a good
+chance if he never again visited a malarious district, otherwise,
+my own experience shows me that two years are nothing. Every time I
+have gone before a Medical Board in London, preparatory to returning
+to duty, their last charge has been, "You must never again go to
+a malarious district!" Medical Boards propose, and Government and
+circumstances dispose.
+
+I stayed at home in a high and healthy part of the Midlands, and left
+for India again in October. I arrived in Calcutta in November, where
+I again suffered from malarious symptoms; but I soon got better,
+and was attached to the Foreign Office, at my own request, extra
+attachés being required for the Imperial Assemblage.
+
+I had the good fortune to see the whole of that gorgeous pageant,
+the like of which this generation will probably never witness again,
+under the most favourable auspices; and though I had on an average
+eighteen hours' work out of each twenty-four, I was well repaid by
+being able to take part in it. I met many old friends, and also became
+acquainted with Salar Jung, Maharajahs Scindiah and Holkar, Sir Dinkur
+Rao, Madhava Rao, and several other now historical celebrities. The
+Viceroy's reception-tent at night was a grand sight, filled with
+gallant soldiers, European and native, and great statesmen.
+
+Among the new arrivals was the Khan of Khelat, an intelligent but
+savage-looking chief, with eyes all about him. I was being constantly
+deputed to carry polite messages from the Viceroy to different chiefs
+and celebrities and to meet them at the railway stations. Among those
+whom I met were the envoy from the Chief of Muscat, also the Siamese
+Ambassador and his suite, a highly intelligent and sensible set of
+men. I remember well the rough-and-ready way in which the younger
+Siamese officers looked after their luggage and effects. They were
+provided with a handsome set of tents, and all dined together at
+one table in European fashion, in the most civilised way, with the
+British officer attached to them.
+
+I stayed at Delhi till the assemblage broke up, and after a few days
+in Calcutta with the Foreign Office, went to Bombay to meet my wife,
+who, with our two boys, arrived there on February 2nd. We at once set
+out on our way to Almorah in the Himalayas, where I was permitted to
+reside for a year and compile Foreign Office records.
+
+We were delayed at Moradabad for a few days, as the passes were covered
+with snow. At last we started, and found Nynee Tal deep in snow, and
+the lake frozen. Next day we marched across the track of an avalanche,
+and the following afternoon reached the Almorah Dak Bungalow, or
+rest house. The ground was covered with snow, and the cold intense,
+the bungalow draughty and very uncomfortable. After a few days we got
+into a house, which Sir H. Ramsey, who was then out on duty in the
+district, had kindly taken for us, and I dived deep into my records,
+consisting of early documents relating to Assam and the Singpho tribes.
+
+As the weather grew warmer, Almorah became very pleasant. I pined
+for active work, but our stay here gave my wife experience in the
+mode of life in India, for which she was afterwards very thankful,
+and she obtained hints on housekeeping subjects from other ladies,
+which were a help to her later on. Life in the Naga Hills was of
+course very different to what it is in more civilised parts of India.
+
+The Foreign Office had my name down in their list for an appointment. I
+could have gone to Manipur when I landed in Calcutta, but was not
+well enough. In July, I had a telegram to say that Lieut. Durand,
+who had lately been appointed, was ill, and must be relieved. Would
+I go? I at once replied in the affirmative, and off we started on
+July 16th. It was very short notice, but changing quarters at short
+notice is part of an Indian official's life, and the prospect of
+work was delightful to me. We had a trying journey down to Calcutta,
+as the rains had not begun in the North-West Provinces, and the heat
+was tremendous. However, we arrived none the worse for it, and stayed
+for a day or two with our kind friends, the Medlicotts.
+
+As Colonel Keatinge, the Chief Commissioner of Assam, wished to see
+me before I went to Manipur, I was ordered to join at Shillong, so
+we proceeded by rail to Goalundo, one night's journey from Calcutta,
+and thence by river steamer to Chuttuk, on the Soorma, where we
+changed into country boats, and proceeded up a smaller river and
+across great jheels or shallow lakes, often passing for miles through
+high grass growing in the water, which hid us from everything, till we
+reached a place called Bholagunj, situated on a river rapidly becoming
+narrower, where we again changed, this time into small canoes, the
+only conveyances that could take us up the rapids, with which the
+river abounds.
+
+From Chuttuk we had come through a country mostly covered with grass
+jungle, twelve to fifteen feet in height; now we passed through
+forest scenery, very lovely fine trees, with festoons of creepers
+and flowers overhanging the stream. At last we reached Thuria Ghât,
+where the ascent of the hills commenced, and there we halted for the
+night in the Dak Bungalow, or rest house. Most places situated as
+Thuria Ghât is, would be deadly on account of malaria, but it seems
+to be an exception, and, as far as I have seen, healthy.
+
+Knowing the servant difficulties in the province of Assam, we had
+brought servants with us from Almorah, men who had implored us to
+take them. When I consented to do so I voluntarily raised their wages
+from fifty to eighty per cent. above what they had been receiving,
+but with the exception of a Dhobee (washerman), and a bearer (a
+compound of housemaid and valet), they all became corrupted by the
+other servants they met at Shillong, and who spoke of Manipur in
+very disparaging terms, so before going farther I let them go, as
+they demanded an enormous increase of wages.
+
+The Dhobee Nunnoo, and the bearer Horna, stuck to me to the very last,
+and proved admirable servants. It was fortunate that we had servants,
+as there were none at Thuria Ghât rest house; as it was, we managed
+very well, and were prepared to march in the morning before the coolies
+were ready to take up our luggage. We had a tiring march up the hill
+to Cherra Poojee; my wife and the children were in baskets on men's
+backs, but I was on foot and felt the march in the intense heat to be
+very fatiguing, though we halted to rest half-way. However, when we
+reached the plateau of Cherra Poojee, 4000 feet above Thuria Ghât,
+the cool air speedily set me right, and we all enjoyed the scenery,
+hills, plains, waterfalls in abundance, deep valleys, and the lowlands
+of Sylhet, covered with water, as far as the eye could reach. We had
+a comfortable bungalow to rest in, and a cool night at last.
+
+Next day we marched to Moflung, 6000 feet above the sea, and then to
+Shillong, where for the next few days we were hospitably entertained by
+the Chief Commissioner, Colonel (now General) Keatinge, V.C., C.S.I.,
+who kindly sent a carriage to meet us on the road. As Colonel Keatinge
+wished me to remain at Shillong for a time, and meet Mr. Carnegy,
+political officer in the Naga Hills, who was coming there later on,
+I arranged to stay, and took a house; so we settled down comfortably
+till the early part of October--a very pleasant arrangement for us
+instead of facing the intense heat of the Cachar Valley in August. It
+gave me a good opportunity of looking over the records of the Chief
+Commissioner's office, where I found much relating to Manipur, but
+I fear that it was lost when the Record Office was burnt down some
+years ago, the copies also having been destroyed in Manipur during
+the rebellion of 1891. At last the day for leaving came, and we packed
+up our things and prepared once more to set off on our travels.
+
+Before leaving, I paid several visits to Colonel McCulloch, who, since
+retiring from the service, had established himself at Shillong, and
+asked his advice on many points, and learned much from him regarding
+Manipur. He very kindly gave his opinion freely on all questions,
+telling me where some of my predecessors had failed, and pointing out
+the pitfalls to be avoided. He added to all his kindness by writing
+to the Maharajah, and telling him that, from what he had seen of me,
+he was sure it would be his fault if we did not get on together.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Start for Manipur--March over the hills--Lovely scenery--View of
+    the valleys--State reception--The Residency--Visitors.
+
+
+Lowremba Subadar, an excellent old fellow, formerly in the service
+of Colonel McCulloch, was sent to Shillong to be in attendance
+on me, and of course to find out all he could about me and report
+the result. Before I left, he sent a note to the Maharajah of my
+requirements in the way of coolies, etc., for our long journey of
+ten days between Cachar and Manipur, and I also intimated that, as
+the representative of the British Government, and as one who well
+knew what was due to me as such, I should expect to be received with
+proper ceremony.
+
+This was a point on which I laid much stress, as my experience had
+taught me that in a native state so tenacious of its dignity and
+ancient customs as Manipur, my future success depended in a great
+measure on my scrupulously requiring all that I was entitled to, and
+as much more as I could get. It had been a complaint against one of
+my predecessors that he had been discourteous, and I determined that
+the Manipuris should not have to complain of me on that score, and in
+my letters I took care to be as courteous and considerate as possible.
+
+On former occasions it had been the custom for a new political agent
+to enter the capital unattended, and to call on the Maharajah the
+next day, the latter repaying the visit a day later. This I did
+not consider sufficient, and I determined that he should come out
+to meet me in state. When Colonel McCulloch returned to Manipur the
+second time, this had been done, Colonel McCulloch being an old and
+intimate friend of the Maharajah. I quoted this as a precedent. I
+tried in vain to get the Foreign Department to back up my request,
+but could not induce them to interfere on my behalf, so I took the
+responsibility on myself, and sent a formal demand to the Maharajah
+to send a high officer--a major commanding a regiment--to meet me on
+the road, and to meet me himself in state at a suitable distance from
+the capital. The result will be described.
+
+All being ready we left Shillong, my wife, nurse and children on men's
+backs as before, for Cherra Poojee, where we arrived the second day;
+thence, on the third day, we went to Thuria Ghât, on by boat viâ
+Bholagunj, to Sylhet and Cachar. We reached Cachar on October 17th,
+after passing the historical fort of Budderpore, where a battle was
+fought with the Burmese in 1825, and settled down in the bungalow
+of our kind friend Major Boyd who was away. Our coolies arrived on
+October 18th, and we again packed our things and prepared to depart
+on our final march.
+
+We left Cachar for Manipur on October 20th, my wife and the nurse and
+boys in "doolies," a kind of tray four feet long by two in width,
+with sides and ends eight inches in height, supported by two long
+poles running along the bottom of each side, and slung at each end
+to loose bars of wood carried on men's shoulders. The passenger sits
+inside as best he can, and there is a light matting roof thrown over
+to protect him from the weather. To begin with, it is an uncomfortable
+and shaky conveyance, but in time one gets accustomed to it.
+
+Our baggage was carried mostly on men's backs, each load varying from
+sixty to seventy pounds in weight. Altogether we had, I daresay, one
+hundred coolies, as everything we required for a ten days' journey had
+to be carried, in addition to personal baggage and stores for our use
+on arrival. I had provided a tent in case of need, but did not use it,
+as rude huts were provided for us at all the stages along the road. Our
+first halt was at Luckipore, in British territory, and, as usual,
+the first march was the most trying; for servants, coolies, etc.,
+have to learn each other's ways. I had an escort of one hundred men
+of the 35th Native Infantry, under a subadar, as it was expected that
+I might have to go on an expedition soon after my arrival, and these
+men had their own special coolies, so we were a large party altogether.
+
+We halted at Luckipore, as I have said, a few miles from the Hoorung
+Hills and at Jeree Ghât. Next day we left British territory and entered
+Manipur, where we found some huts built for our accommodation. At Jeree
+Ghât the really interesting part of the journey commenced; thence, till
+Bissenpore in the valley of Manipur is reached, the traveller marches
+day after day over hills and across rivers. The first day from Jeree
+Ghât we crossed the Noon-jai-bang range, the summit of which is 1800
+to 1900 feet above the sea from whence a fine view of the next range,
+Kala Naga or in Manipuri, Wy-nang-nong, is obtained. The road which
+was made under the superintendence of Captain (afterwards Colonel)
+Guthrie, of the Bengal Engineers between 1837 and 1844, at the joint
+expense of the British and Manipuri Governments, the former paying
+the larger share, was excellent for foot passengers and pack animals,
+but not wide enough and too steep for wheeled traffic on a large scale.
+
+After descending from Noong-jai-bang we halted on the banks of the
+Mukker river amidst splendid forest, and next day ascended the Kala
+Naga range and halted on the crest close to a Manipuri guard house
+at a height of 3400 feet.
+
+From this spot a magnificent view of the plains of Cachar is
+obtained, and in fine weather, far beyond them the Kasia hills in the
+neighbourhood of Cherra Poojee may be descried. The scene at sunset
+is sometimes magnificent. In the foreground the dark forests, and in
+the far distance a huge bank of golden clouds with their reflection
+in the watery plain, and a mingled mass of colours, green fields,
+purple, crimson, red and gold, all mixed up in such a way as no
+painter would ever attempt to copy. As the sun sinks those colours
+change and re-arrange themselves every minute in quick succession,
+and when at last night closes in, the impression left on the mind is
+one of never-ending wonder and admiration.
+
+From Kala Naga to the Barâk river is a very stiff descent, calculated
+to shake the knees of an inexperienced hill-walker, and many is the
+toe-nail lost by the pressure of one's boots. Here as at the Mukker
+and other rivers farther on, the Barâk is crossed by cane suspension
+bridges, which vibrate and move at every step. In the dry season
+these rivers are crossed by very cleverly constructed bamboo pontoon
+bridges, but when the rainy season has commenced, they become raging
+torrents, which nothing but a fish could live in, and but for the
+suspension bridges, all communication with the outer world would be
+cut off. The bridge over the Eerung river was one hundred yards in
+length, and like all the others, was, when I first went to Manipur,
+constructed entirely of cane and bamboo, and could by great exertions,
+be finished in three days. During my period of office, wire ropes
+were substituted for the two main cables on which all rested, and the
+strength of the bridges greatly increased thereby. It was an important
+part of my duty to see that both roads and bridges were kept in order.
+
+Our march was interesting but uneventful. We started after breakfast
+and generally reached our halting place in time for a late luncheon
+or afternoon tea. Wherever we halted we had a hut to live in,
+generally in some picturesque spot, one day giving a splendid view
+of hill and valley with nothing but forests in view, on another we
+were perched on a hill overlooking the beautiful Kowpoom valley,
+a sheet of cultivation. At last, on the ninth day after crossing
+the Lai-metol river, and ascending the Lai-metol, we had our first
+view of the valley of Manipur [14] spread out like a huge map at our
+feet. Seen as it was by us at the end of the rainy season, and from a
+height of 2600 feet above it, is a vast expanse of flat land bordered
+by hills, and mostly covered with water, through which the rice crops
+are vigorously growing. To the south the Logtak lake is visible, with
+several island hills in it, while far away to the north-east might be
+seen the glittering roofs of the temples of Imphal, the capital. It
+requires time to take in the view and to appreciate it. In the dry
+season it looks very different with brown, dried-up hills in the
+place of green.
+
+The valley of Manipur possesses a few sacred groves, left, according to
+the universal aboriginal custom, throughout all parts of India that I
+have visited, for the wood spirits, when the land was first cleared;
+but no natural forest. These groves are little isolated patches of
+forest dotted here and there; the villages have plenty of planted
+trees, many of great antiquity, and from the heights above they have
+the appearance of woodland covered with grass. Besides this, all is one
+sheet of cultivation or waste covered with grass. It was once entirely
+cultivated, that is, before the Burmese invasion of 1819, when the
+population of the valley, was from 500 to 1000 per square mile.
+
+We halted to rest on the summit of the Lai-metol, and then descended,
+passing sometimes under a kind of wild apple tree with very
+eatable fruit, and once through a lovely grove of oak trees, called
+"Oui-ong-Moklung," and then, still far below us, saw some elephants
+sent for us by the Maharajah. These elephants were posted at Sebok
+Tannah, [15] a police station where the ground begins to grow level,
+and a mile farther brought us to Bissenpore, where there was a rude
+rest house. Here we halted for the night.
+
+I have mentioned my demand that I should be met with proper
+ceremony. It was of course stoutly resisted, every argument founded
+on old custom, etc., being used against it. However, I stood firm, and
+absolutely refused to go beyond Bissenpore, till the Maharajah gave me
+an assurance that he would do all I required. In the end he gave in,
+and a day before reaching that place, his uncle met me on the road with
+a letter saying that all should be done as I wished. This official,
+by name Samoo Major, became a great friend of mine, and remained so
+till I finally left; he is, alas, I believe, now a prisoner in the
+Andamans, having been supposed to be implicated in the rising in 1891.
+
+The next day we left Bissenpore in good time, and marched the seventeen
+miles to the capital, halting half-way at Phoiching, where I was
+met by some officials. Farther on, some of still higher rank came
+to greet me, and finally, at the entrance to the capital, I was met
+by the Maharajah himself, surrounded by all his sons. A carpet was
+spread with chairs for him and myself, we both of us having descended
+from our elephants, advanced and met in the centre of the carpet,
+and having made our salutations (a salute of eleven guns was fired
+in my honour), we sat and talked for two minutes. We then mounted,
+the Maharajah's elephant being driven by his third son, the master
+of the elephants; and we rode together through the great bazaar,
+till our roads diverged at the entrance to the fortified enclosure
+to the palace, where we took leave of each other, and he went home,
+and I went to the Residency, which I reached at four o'clock, my wife
+and children having made a short cut.
+
+The Residency then was a low and dark bungalow built of wattle
+and daub, and thatched. It had one large room in the centre, and a
+bedroom on either side with a small semicircular room in front and
+rear of the centre room; there was one bathroom (I speedily added
+more), and verandahs nearly all round. There were venetians to the
+windows, but no glass, and the house was very dark and very full of
+mosquitoes. However, all had been done by the Residency establishment
+to make the place comfortable, and we were too old travellers and
+too accustomed to rough it, to grumble. The house might be rude and
+uncomfortable, but some of my happiest days were spent in it. The
+building was at the end of a garden, with some nice mango, and other
+trees here and there, and had a little more ground attached to it,
+but we were on all sides surrounded by squalid villages and filthy
+tanks and cesspools, and the situation was very low, though well
+drained. Our English nurse grumbled incessantly, but we had engaged
+in advance, a nice pleasant Naga woman, named Chowkee, to help her,
+and soon made everything right for the night, but the mosquitoes were
+terrible, and though my life has been spent in countries swarming
+with them, I give Manipur the palm, it beats all others!
+
+No European lady or children of pure blood had ever before been
+seen in Manipur, and at first there was great excitement wherever
+we went, all the population turning out to look at us. By degrees
+they became accustomed to the novelty, but still occasionally people
+from distant villages coming to the capital stopped to stare. Every
+now and then my wife had visits from strange old ladies, often from
+the Kola Ranee, the widow of the last Rajah of Assam, and by birth a
+Manipuri princess, daughter of Rajah Chomjeet, and first cousin of
+the Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. Once an old woman of 106 years
+of age, with a daughter of 76, were visitors, and once or twice some
+other relic of a bygone age called on us. Among the latter was old
+Ram Singh, the last survivor of Wilcox's famous survey expeditions in
+Assam, in 1825-26-27-28. Wilcox was one of the giants of old, men who
+with limited resources, did a vast amount of work among wild people,
+and said little about it, being contented with doing their duty. In
+1828, accompanied by Lieutenant Burton, and ten men belonging to the
+Sudya Khamptis (Shans), he penetrated to the Bor Khamptis country, far
+beyond our borders, an exploit not repeated till after our annexation
+of Upper Burmah. Ram Singh had a great respect for his former leader,
+and loved to talk of old days.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Visit to the Maharajah--His minister--Former revolutions--Thangal
+    Major.
+
+
+After a day's rest I paid a visit to the Maharajah, having first
+stipulated as to my proper reception. I was received by the Jubraj
+(heir apparent) at the entrance to the private part of the palace,
+and by the Maharajah a few paces from the entrance to the Durbar room
+(hall of reception), and conducted by him to a seat opposite to his
+own, with a table between us, his sons and officials being seated on
+either side. I read the Viceroy's letter, informing the Maharajah of
+my appointment, and, after a short conversation, during which my age
+was asked (a question invariably put to European officers by Manipuris
+of rank), I took my leave, and was escorted back to the place where
+I was met on my arrival. I was favourably impressed by what I saw,
+but I at once realised that I was on no bed of roses, and that I would
+have to make a good fight to obtain and maintain my just influence with
+the Durbar. The Maharajah had undoubtedly grievances against us, and I
+felt that it was folly and injustice not to acknowledge these. At the
+same time, he and his ministers had on some occasions taken advantage
+of this state of affairs to behave in an unseemly way, and for this a
+sharp rebuke had to be administered. The natural sense of injustice
+is strong in mankind, and I saw that chafing under slights they had
+received, and often magnifying them, it was necessary for me first to
+acknowledge these, and try as far as possible to make amends, and then
+to come down on them very sharply for having forgotten their position.
+
+The Maharajah returned my visit, and we had one or two interviews
+when we discussed affairs. I pointed out the extreme gravity of
+resisting the British Government in any way, and we soon became
+very friendly. Colonel McCulloch's introduction had been a great
+advantage to me, and every one was inclined to give me credit for good
+intentions, at the same time that every effort was made to restrict
+my authority and influence.
+
+The Maharajah was a rather thick-set man of about five feet five
+inches in height and forty-five years of age. In India he would have
+been called fair. He had the features of the Indo-Chinese race, and the
+impassive face that generally goes with them, but which is often not so
+marked in the Manipuris. He was far the ablest man in his dominions,
+and a strong and capable ruler. He had a great taste for mechanical
+arts of all kinds, and a vast fund of information which he had acquired
+by questioning, for he questioned every one he met. English scientific
+works were explained to him, and his researches extended even to the
+anatomy of the human body, of which he had a very fair knowledge. He
+had a taste for European articles, and owned a large assortment. He had
+glass manufactured in his workshops, and once sent me a petroleum lamp,
+every portion of which was made by his own artificers. His rule, for
+such a strong man, was mild as compared with that of his predecessors,
+and he thoroughly realised that his prosperity depended on his loyalty
+to the British Government. At the same time, he was most tenacious
+of his rights, and earnestly desired to preserve his country intact,
+and to give us no excuse for annexing it.
+
+The fear of tempting us to annex was so great that, once when I
+thought of growing a little tea for my own consumption, he was much
+agitated. I, as a matter of courtesy, first sent to ask him if he
+had any objection to my growing a little, and, in reply, he sent an
+official to beg me not to think of it. This man said, "The Maharajah
+will supply you with all the tea you want free of cost, but begs you
+not to think of growing it." The officer went on to explain, that
+it was feared that, if I successfully demonstrated that tea could
+be grown in Manipur tea planters would come up, and there would be a
+cry for annexation! Certainly our annexation of the Muttuk country in
+1840 justified the suspicion, and we cannot blame people for having
+long memories.
+
+The Jubraj, or heir apparent, was an amiable young man of twenty-six or
+twenty-seven, with a pleasant smile which was wanting in his father. He
+was of a weak character, although possessing some ability. Like
+his father, he could speak Hindoostani, but both were ignorant of
+English. Backed up and influenced by an honest and capable Political
+Agent, he would probably have made an excellent ruler, and, had we
+done our duty by him, he might now be at the head of a flourishing
+little state, instead of having died an exile in Calcutta.
+
+The next son, Wankai Rakpar, afterwards known as the "Regent" during
+the recent troubles, was an ignorant, uncouth boor, who knew no
+language but his own, and was quite unfitted for any responsible work;
+he took little part in public affairs. The third known as Samoo Henjaba
+(Master of the Elephants), was a clever, pleasant, sensible young man,
+said by Thangal Major, no mean judge of character, to be the ablest
+of the ten sons of the Maharajah. He died during my tenure of office.
+
+The fourth son, Kotwal Koireng, who afterwards acquired an infamous
+reputation as the "Senaputtee," was always a bad character, cruel,
+coarse, and low minded. From early childhood he was given to foul
+language, and was absolutely dangerous when he grew up. His mother
+had been unfaithful to the Maharajah, who used to say that the son
+was worthy of her. Colonel McCulloch had always disliked him as a boy.
+
+None of the other six sons of the Maharajah were in my time mixed up
+in public affairs, so I need not describe them, except that Pucca
+Senna was the champion polo player, though not otherwise worthy of
+notice. The practical ministers were Bularam Singh, or Sawai Jamba
+Major, and Thangal Major. They were both faithful adherents of the
+Maharajah, although the first who had once had much influence had
+married the daughter of the former Rajah Nur Sing. He was nominally
+the first in rank, but Thangal Major was rapidly gaining ground,
+and viewed with increasing favour by the Maharajah.
+
+I quote the following description of the Government of Manipur from an
+article I wrote for The Nineteenth Century, by kind permission of the
+editor. "The government of Manipur has always been a pure despotism
+tempered by assassination and revolution. While he occupies the throne
+the rajah is perfectly absolute. A minister may be all powerful,
+and all the princes and people may tremble before him; for years he
+may practically rule the rajah; but he is after all a cipher before
+his sovereign, a single word from whom may send him into exile, make
+him an outcast, or reduce him to the lowest rank. Yet with all this
+power an obscure man may suddenly spring up, as if from the ground,
+to assert himself to be of the blood royal, and gathering a large
+party round him place himself on the throne. All this happened not
+unfrequently in days gone by, when many were the rajahs murdered
+or deposed. History tells us of rajahs being deposed, re-elected,
+and deposed again."
+
+There can be no doubt that in old days the people benefited by the
+system of constant revolutions, as a rajah was obliged to keep in touch
+with his subjects if he wished to occupy the throne for any length of
+time, and many concessions were made to gain a strong following. The
+average intelligence of the Manipuris being higher than that found
+among the cultivators of many other native states, the people knew
+what reforms to ask for, and often insisted on their being granted.
+
+Nothing can be harder on the people of a native state, than for the
+paramount power to hold a ruler on the throne with a firm grasp,
+and protect him against internal revolution, and at the same time to
+refrain from insisting on needful reform.
+
+Chandra Kirtee Singh's long reign and strong government, were in many
+ways a great benefit to the people, because he was a man of sound
+sense, and though selfish and unscrupulous, naturally of a kindly
+disposition, a fact proved by the few executions that took place in his
+reign. In his earlier years he had the benefit of Colonel McCulloch's
+good advice, enforced by his great influence. All the same there
+can be no doubt that a little more interference judiciously applied,
+would have vastly improved the state of affairs during the time he
+occupied the throne. Of course an individual Political Agent might
+bring about improvements in the administration, but these all rested
+on his personal influence and lasted only while he remained. Had the
+Government of India stepped in and exerted its authority they would
+have been permanent.
+
+Bularam Singh was a typical Manipuri in face and had good manners,
+but he had no force of character, and gradually yielded to his more
+able colleague. He was generally known as the Toolee-Hel major, i.e.,
+the major or commander of the Hel regiment.
+
+Thangal Major was a remarkable character, and had a chequered
+history. His uncle had saved the life of Rajah Ghumbeer Singh (Chandra
+Kirtee Singh's father), then a child, when his older brother Marjeet
+attempted the murder of all his relations. Thangal Major was one of
+the props of the throne when Ghumbeer Singh ascended it. He had been
+introduced at Court at an early age, and accompanied the Rajah in
+an expedition against the village of Thangal inhabited by a tribe
+of Nagas. He was given the name Thangal in memory of the event. He
+accompanied the old Ranee with her infant son Chandra Kirtee Singh
+into exile, when she fled after attempting the Regent Nursing's
+life while he was engaged in worship in the temple of Govindjee in
+1844; had stayed with him and carefully watched over his childhood
+and youth. When in 1850 the young Rajah came to Manipur to assert
+his rights, Thangal accompanied him and greatly contributed to his
+success. This naturally made him a favourite, and his bold, active,
+energetic character always brought him to the front when hard or
+dangerous work had to be done. For a time he fell into disfavour,
+but Colonel McCulloch, recognising his strong and useful qualities,
+and the fact that he was an exceedingly able man, interceded for him
+with the Maharajah, and he again came to the front. In person he was
+short and thickset, darker than the average of Manipuris, with piercing
+eyes and rather a prominent nose, a pleasant and straightforward but
+abrupt manner, and, though a very devoted and patriotic Manipuri,
+was extremely partial to Europeans. He knew our ways well, and soon
+took a man's measure. He was acquainted with every part of Manipur,
+and, though ignorant of English, could point out any village in
+the state, on an English map. In fact, he had studied geography in
+every branch to enable him to defend the cause of Manipur against
+the survey officers who were suspected by the Manipuris of wishing
+to include all they could within British territory. He knew all our
+technical terms such as "watershed" in English, and had gained much
+credit for enabling the survey to carry on their work in 1872, when
+the patriotic but ill-judged zeal of an older officer, Rooma Singh,
+nearly brought about a rupture. Thangal Major's knowledge of us and
+our customs, as well as of our moral code, was astonishing. He realised
+the power of the British Government, and though he would resist us to
+the utmost in the interests of Manipur, nothing would have induced
+him to join in any plot against our rule in India. When I say that
+he was unscrupulous and capable of anything, I only say that he was
+what circumstances and education had made him, and would make any
+man under similar conditions. He had not the polish of a native of
+Western India, and had not had the advantage of English training that
+many ministers in other states have. The internal administration of
+Manipur had never been interfered with by us, and Thangal Major was
+the strong able man of the old type. A strong and capable political
+agent might do well with him, but a weak one would soon go to the
+wall. He commanded the Toolee Nehah, and was often called by that
+title, but was better known as Thangal Major.
+
+One of my predecessors had quarrelled with Thangal Major, and this
+had led to recrimination, and very unseemly conduct on the part of the
+Durbar. This conduct I had rebuked as directed, but it was a question
+as to how Thangal Major was to be dealt with. I was authorised to
+demand his dismissal from office, and for some time he had not been
+received by my two immediate predecessors. I made careful inquiries,
+and feeling convinced that there was a good deal to be said on
+Thangal's side, and that by careful management I should be able to
+keep him well in hand, I sent for him. The old man, he was then sixty,
+having been born in 1817, came in a quiet unostentatious way, and after
+a severe rebuke, and receiving an ample apology from him, I forgave
+him, and restored him to the position of minister in attendance upon
+me; and thenceforth I saw him daily, generally for an hour or two.
+
+In addition to the Minister, two Subadars, Lowremba and Moirang,
+were placed in attendance on me, but as time went on, and I and the
+Durbar became friends, we transacted business in a friendly way,
+through any one.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Manipur--Early history--Our connection with it--Ghumbeer
+    Singh--Burmese war.
+
+
+Manipur consists of about 8000 square miles, chiefly hills surrounding
+a valley 650 square miles in extent. This valley from north to south
+is about 35 miles, and from east to west 25. The capital Imphal,
+as it formerly existed, was a large mass of villages looking like a
+forest from the neighbouring heights, and covering about 15 square
+miles. Every house was in the centre of its own well-planted garden,
+and every garden contained a few forest trees. The census of 1881 gave
+the population of the capital as 60,000, that of the rest of the valley
+an equal number, while the hills were estimated to have 100,000. It
+was only in the capital that pure Manipuris lived, except the soldiers
+in the military posts which were scattered all over the country.
+
+The valley itself is 2600 feet above the sea, and the hills rise
+on an average to an equal height above it, though here and there
+some of the distant peaks are 10,000 to 12,000 feet in height. Thus
+Manipur contains within its borders a variety of climate from almost
+tropical, to a greater cold than that of England. The heat is never
+very excessive in the valley, and for eight months in the year it is
+most enjoyable. Foreigners suffer much from bronchial affections,
+doubtless owing to the waterlogged soil, but these complaints are
+not more prevalent among the native population than elsewhere, and
+if sanitary laws were properly observed, the valley might be a most
+healthy place and the population would rapidly overflow.
+
+The capital is almost intersected by the 25th parallel north latitude,
+and 95° east longitude, and is 132 miles by road from Silchar, the
+capital of Cachar, and 70 from Tamu in the Kubo valley. The valley of
+Manipur forms the centre of a chain of valleys, viz., Cachar, Manipur,
+and Kubo, connecting Bengal with Burmah proper. The sides of the
+hills facing the valley of Manipur are generally covered with grass
+or scant jungle which rapidly dries up as the cold season advances,
+but when once the crest is passed, a fine forest is reached; except
+where the hill-tribes have destroyed it, to raise one crop and then
+let it relapse into grass and scrub. Alas, I have seen noble oak
+forests laid low and burned for this purpose. It is an abominable
+custom, and nothing can justify our permitting it where we hold
+sway. That it is not necessary is shown by the Angamis and some of
+the Tankhool tribes, who though they do occasionally indulge in this
+wasteful cultivation are quite independent of it, as they terrace
+their hillsides and cultivate the same tract for generations. The
+forests of Manipur are plentifully supplied with fine timber trees;
+several varieties of oak and chestnut exist, and many others unknown
+in England such as Woo-Ningtho, an excellent timber said to resist the
+ravages of white ants; wang, which can be worked in its green state
+as it never warps; teak, etc. Fir trees are found in abundance to the
+south, east, and north-east of the valley, and bamboos of many kinds,
+including the giant, are plentiful.
+
+Rhododendrons and wild azaleas of several kinds, as well as many
+species of brilliant orchids, add greatly to the beauty of the forests,
+and in some parts tree ferns are abundant. I know nothing more lovely
+in the world, than some of the forest scenery of Manipur with its
+solemn stillness.
+
+The early history of Manipur is lost in obscurity, but there can be
+no doubt that it has existed as an independent kingdom from a very
+early period. In the days when the Indian branch of the Aryan race
+was still in its progressive and colonising stage, this district
+was repeatedly passed over by one wave after another of invaders,
+intent on penetrating into the remotest parts of Burmah. We have no
+means of ascertaining what government it had before the year 700 A.D.,
+but it is believed that a monarchy prevailed at that era. About the
+year 1250 A.D., a large Chinese force invaded the country, and was
+signally defeated; all who were not killed being made prisoners. These
+taught the Manipuris silk culture, and a number of them were settled
+at Susa Rameng in the valley, where they have still descendants. The
+Chinese also taught the art of brick-making, and erected two solid
+blocks of masonry in the palace, between which the road to the Lion
+Gate passed. These blocks were levelled with the ground by the Burmese
+invaders, but rebuilt on the old foundations by Ghumbeer Singh.
+
+Manipur in old days possessed a famous breed of ponies, larger and
+better bred than the so-called Burmese ponies that come from the Shan
+states. On these ponies were mounted the formidable cavalry that
+in the last century made Manipur feared throughout Upper Burmah,
+and enabled her rulers on more than one occasion, to carry their
+victorious arms within sight of Ava, where their Rajah Pamheiba erected
+a stone pillar to commemorate the event. The cavalry used the regular
+Manipuri saddle protecting the legs, and were armed with spears and
+two quivers of darts. These darts in a retreat were grasped by a loop
+and swung round in a peculiar way, when the shaft formed of peacock
+feathers with an iron head suddenly became detached, and flying with
+great force inflicted a fatal wound wherever it struck. A skilful
+man could throw them with great precision.
+
+The territories of Manipur varied according to the mettle of its
+rulers. Sometimes they held a considerable territory east of the
+Chindwin river in subjection, at other times only the Kubo valley,
+a strip of territory, inhabited, not by Burmese, but by Shans, and
+lying between Manipur proper and the Chindwin. Again they were driven
+back into Manipur proper. For the greater part of the last century,
+the Kubo valley unquestionably belonged to Manipur, and it was never
+in any sense a Burmese province, being, when not under Manipur,
+a feudatory of the great Shan kingdom of Pong.
+
+In the middle of the last century one of those extraordinary men who
+appear from time to time in the East, destined to shine like a blazing
+meteor, imparting exceeding brilliancy to their country, and then as
+suddenly vanishing, so that it returns to its original obscurity,
+appeared in Burmah. His name, Along Pra, has been corrupted by us
+into Alompra, by which he is always known. He speedily raised Burmah
+to a commanding position. The kingdom of Pong was overthrown and
+its territories mostly annexed, Pegu was conquered, our district of
+Chittagong threatened, and Siam forced to relinquish several coveted
+possessions. The war fever did not die with Alompra, and in 1817 and
+1819 Assam and Manipur were respectively invaded, internal dissensions
+having bred traitors, who, in both countries, made the path of the
+invaders easy. But the master spirit was gone, and when we appeared
+upon the scene, they could make no efficient stand. Had we then marched
+to Ava, the Burmese Empire would have collapsed like a house of cards,
+and the events of 1885 been anticipated by sixty years. As it was, we
+did not realise our strength and the Burmese weakness, and contented
+ourselves with annexing Assam and Cachar and protecting Manipur.
+
+It is not very evident what the religion of Manipur was in early days,
+but we see no trace of Buddhism. Probably, whatever the belief in
+early years when the people may have been affected by the intermittent
+stream of Aryans passing through, for many centuries no religious rites
+were used before the recent rise of Hindooism, further than to appease
+evil spirits, as is the custom of the surrounding tribes. There can be
+little doubt that some time or other the Naga tribes to the north made
+one of their chiefs Rajah of Manipur, and that his family, while, like
+the Manchus in China and other conquerors, adopting the civilisation
+of the country, retained some of their old customs. This is shown in
+the curious practice at the installation of a Rajah, when he and the
+Ranee appear in Naga costume; also that he always has in his palace
+a house built like a Naga's, and wherever he goes he is attended by
+two or three Manipuris with Naga arms and accoutrements. I once told
+a Manipuri what I thought on the subject, and he was greatly struck
+by it, and admitted the force of what I said.
+
+Towards the middle of the last century, for some reason or other,
+a great Hindoo revival took place in the East of India. Assam was
+once Hindoo but had long become Buddhist under its Ahom kings,
+and now became converted to Hindooism, by Brahmins from Bengal. All
+difficulties were smoothed over, and converts were made by tens of
+thousands. It is to be regretted that it was so, as these "converts"
+quickly deteriorated. The easy conquest of Hindooised Assam by the
+Burmese, when Buddhist Assam had successfully resisted a powerful army
+sent by Arungzebe from India and composed largely of recruits from
+Central Asia, seems proof of it, if all other evidence were wanting.
+
+The process of conversion in Manipur began a generation later than in
+Assam, and proceeded on somewhat different lines, but it was not less
+effective, and was still going on at a late date. It had not the same
+deteriorating effect, for the Rajahs assumed to themselves a position
+greater than that of High Pontiff, and could at any time by their
+simple fiat have changed the religion of the country and degraded
+all the Brahmins, in fact all admissions to the Hindoo pale from the
+outer world of unorthodoxy were made by the Rajah himself. Sometimes
+the inhabitants of a village were elevated en masse from the level
+of outcasts, to that of Hindoos of pure caste, but more often single
+individuals were "converted." A man belonging to a hill-tribe, for
+instance, could, if the Rajah chose, at any time receive the sacred
+thread of the twice-born castes, and on payment of a small sum of money
+be admitted as a Hindoo and was thenceforth called a Khetree. [16]
+This privilege was not accorded to Mussulmans. I once asked a Manipuri
+why they received hill-men and not Mussulmans, both being Mlechas, [17]
+according to Hindoo theory. He said it was because the hill people had
+sinned in ignorance, whereas Mussulmans knew the evil of their ways.
+
+Of course, every one who knows anything of Hindooism is aware that
+theoretically a man must be born a Hindoo, and that proselytism
+is not admitted. Practically, however, this rule is ignored on the
+eastern frontier, and all along it from Sudya down to Chittagong,
+where conversions are daily taking place. I remember villages in
+Assam where caste was unknown thirty-five years ago, but where now the
+people live in the odour of sanctity as highly orthodox and bigoted
+Hindoos. Strange to say, the pure Hindoos of the North-West Provinces
+acknowledge the pretensions of these spurious converts sufficiently so
+as to allow of their drinking water brought by them. It is probably
+easier to take the people at their own valuation than to carry water
+one's self from a distance when tired. By the religious law of the
+Hindoos, it is forbidden to eat or drink anything touched by one of
+another tribe.
+
+Our first relations with Manipur date from 1762, when Governor
+Verelst of the Bengal Presidency--with that splendid self-reliance and
+large-mindedness characteristic of the makers of the British Indian
+Empire, men who acted instead of talking, and were always ready to
+extend our responsibilities when advisable--entered into a treaty with
+the Rajah of Manipur. As this treaty came to nothing, practically our
+connection with the little state really dates from 1823. It had been
+invaded by the Burmese in 1819, and its people driven out or carried
+off into slavery in Burmah. The royal family were fugitives.
+
+At that time Sylhet was our frontier station, and our relations with
+the Burmese, who were at the highest pitch of their power, were
+daily becoming more strained. On our side of the frontier we were
+ably represented by Mr. David Scott, agent to the Governor-General,
+and preparations were being made for the inevitable struggle. One
+day a young Manipuri prince waited on Mr. Scott and asked leave
+to raise a Manipuri force to fight on our side. He was short and
+slight, and of indomitable courage and energy, and the agent to
+the Governor-General recognising his ability, allowed him to raise
+500 men. These were soon increased to 2000, cavalry, infantry and
+artillery. Two English officers, Captain F. Grant and Lieutenant
+R. B. Pemberton, were attached to the force, thenceforth called the
+Manipur Levy, to drill and discipline it.
+
+In 1825 a general advance was made all along our line, Cachar was
+invaded and subdued, and we essayed to pursue the enemy into Manipur
+and thence into Burmah, but our transport arrangements failed. Hitherto
+we had been accustomed to wars in the arid plains of India, and our
+military authorities did not realise the necessities of an expedition
+into the eastern jungles. Hence, camels and bullocks were sent to
+dislocate their limbs in the tenacious mud and swamps of Cachar,
+and when the advance into Manipur was desired, our regular troops
+were powerless. At this crisis the Manipur Levy showed its immense
+value. The men could move lightly equipped without the paraphernalia
+of a regular army, and advance they did, and with such effect that in
+a short time not only was Manipur cleared, but the enemy driven out
+of the Kubo valley. Later on, Ghumbeer Singh was recognised as Rajah
+of Manipur, and the Kubo valley was included within his territories.
+
+Manipur at this time contained only 2000 inhabitants, the miserable
+remnants of a thriving population of at least 400,000, possibly
+600,000, that existed before the invasion. Ghumbeer Singh's task was to
+encourage exiles to return, and to attempt to rebuild the prosperity
+of his little kingdom. He was a wise and strong though severe ruler,
+and though he owed his throne greatly to his own efforts, he to the
+last retained the deepest feelings of loyalty and gratitude to the
+British Government, promptly obeying all its orders and doing his
+utmost to impress the same feeling on all his officers.
+
+As is always the case, though we had carried all before us in the
+war, we began to display great weakness afterwards. We had an agent,
+Colonel Burney, at Ava, and the Burmese who were not disposed to be
+at all friendly, constantly tried to impress on him the fact that
+all difficulties and disputes would be at an end if we ceded the
+Kubo valley to them, that territory belonging to our ally Ghumbeer
+Singh of Manipur. Of course the proposal ought to have been rejected
+with scorn, and a severe snub given to the Burmese officials. The
+advisers of the Government of India, however, being generally officers
+brought up in the Secretariat, and with little practical knowledge of
+Asiatics, the manly course was not followed. It was not realised that
+a display of self-confidence and strength is the best diplomacy with
+people like the Burmese, and with a view to winning their good-will
+we basely consented to deprive our gallant and loyal ally of part
+of his territories. An attempt was made to negotiate with him, but
+Major Grant said, "It is no use bargaining with Ghumbeer Singh,"
+and refused to take any part in it. He was asked what compensation
+should be given, and he said 6000 sicca rupees per annum.
+
+When Ghumbeer Singh heard the final decision he quietly accepted
+it, saying, "You gave it me and you can take it away. I accept your
+decree." The proposed transfer was very distasteful to many of the
+inhabitants, including the Sumjok (Thoungdoot) Tsawbwa, [18] but they
+were not consulted. The Kubo valley was handed over to the Burmese
+on the 9th of January, 1834, and on that day Ghumbeer Singh died in
+Manipur of cholera. Perhaps he was happy in the hour of his death,
+as he felt the treatment of our Government most severely.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of him--Nur Singh and
+    attempt on his life--McCulloch--His wisdom and generosity--My
+    establishment--Settlement of frontier dispute.
+
+
+Ghumbeer Singh did much for Manipur during his comparatively short
+reign. He made all the roads in his territory safe, and subdued the
+different hill-tribes who had asserted their independence during
+the troubles with Burmah. Imphal, the old capital, had not been
+re-occupied, though the sacred spot where the temple of Govindjee
+stood was cared for; but a new palace had been built at Langthabal
+at a distance of three and a half miles from Imphal where several
+fine masonry buildings were erected, and a canal dug for the annual
+boat races. Langthabal [19] was deserted in 1844 and the old site
+re-occupied, and in my time, the buildings at Langthabal were
+picturesque ruins, having been greatly injured by time and the
+earthquakes of 1869 and 1880. Ghumbeer Singh left an infant son,
+Chandra Kirtee Singh who was two years of age at his father's death
+and a distant cousin, Nur Singh, was appointed Regent. Contrary to all
+precedent, the Regent was loyal to his charge and governed well and
+ably for the infant prince, in spite of constant attempts to overthrow
+his government. In 1844, the Queen-Mother wishing to govern herself,
+attempted to procure Nur Singh's murder as he was at prayers in the
+temple. She failed and fled with her son the young Rajah Chandra
+Kirtee Singh to British territory. The Regent then proclaimed himself
+Rajah with the consent of all the people. The Manipur Levy had been
+maintained up till 1835 when the Government of India withdrew their
+connection from it, and ceased to pay the men. Major Grant left
+Manipur, and Captain Gordon, who had been adjutant since 1827, was
+made Political Agent of Manipur. Captain Pemberton had long since
+been on special survey duty.
+
+Captain Gordon died in December 1844. He was much liked and long
+remembered by the people whom he had greatly benefited, among other
+ways by introducing English vegetables, and fruits. He was succeeded
+by Lieutenant (afterwards Colonel) McCulloch.
+
+Rajah Nur Singh died in 1850, and was succeeded by his brother
+Debindro, a weak man, quite unfit for the position. In 1850, young
+Chandra Kirtee Singh invaded the valley with a body of followers,
+Debindro fled, and he mounted the throne without opposition. Up to
+this time the Government of India had always acknowledged the de facto
+Rajah of Manipur, and revolutions with much accompanying bloodshed
+were common. Now, however, McCulloch strongly urged the advisability
+of supporting Chandra Kirtee Singh, and he received authority to
+"make a public avowal of the determination of the British Government
+to uphold the present Rajah and to resist and punish any parties
+attempting hereafter to dispossess him." The Court of Directors of
+the East India Company, in a despatch dated May 5th, 1852, confirmed
+the order of the Government of India and commented thus: "The position
+you have assumed of pledged protector of the Rajah, imposes on you as
+a necessary consequence the obligation of attempting to guide him,
+by your advice, but if needful of protecting his subjects against
+oppression on his part; otherwise our guarantee of his rule may be
+the cause of inflicting on them a continuance of reckless tyranny."
+
+These words of justice and wisdom were steadily ignored by successive
+governments. On no occasion did the Government of India ever seriously
+remonstrate with the Rajah, or make a sustained effort to improve
+his system of administration. The East India Company's order became
+a dead letter, but the resolution to uphold Chandra Kirtee Singh
+bore good fruit, and during his long reign of thirty-five years no
+successful attempt against his authority was ever made, and he on
+his part displayed unswerving fidelity to the British Government.
+
+I have already mentioned the great work that Colonel McCulloch
+accomplished with regard to the Kukis. This added to his long
+experience, gave him great influence in the State, and when he
+retired from the service in 1861, it was amidst the regrets of the
+whole people. Able, high-minded, respected, and having accomplished
+a task few could even have attempted, he left without honour or
+reward from his Government. How many men of inferior capacity,
+and quite without his old-fashioned single-minded devotion to duty,
+are nowadays covered with stars! When he left he made every effort
+to hand over his vast power and influence intact to his successor,
+and to smooth his way as much as possible. Had the Government of
+India exercised the slightest tact and discretion in the selection of
+its agent, he might have carried on the good work so ably commenced,
+and brought Manipur by rapid strides into the path of progress. As it
+was it would have been difficult to find an officer more unfitted to
+succeed Colonel McCulloch than the one selected; he was soon involved
+in difficulties, and after a troubled period was ordered by Government
+to leave at three days' notice. For a time the agency remained vacant,
+but the Rajah applied for another officer, and Colonel McCulloch was
+requested by the Government to quit his retirement, and again assume
+charge. He did so, and was received with acclamations by Rajah and
+people, the whole State turning out to meet him. His first effort was
+to restore the confidence forfeited by the late political agent, and
+everything went on as smoothly as ever; but, towards the end of 1867,
+he finally retired, staying on a few days after his successor's arrival
+to post him up in his work. This time it would have been thought that
+some judgment would be shown in the selection of an officer for the
+post; but the next political agent was eminently unfitted and for
+some years before his death in 1876, was on very indifferent terms
+with the Durbar.
+
+During the brief period that elapsed between the last event and my
+taking charge, two different officers held the post.
+
+My Government establishment consisted of a head clerk, a most excellent
+man, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo; a native doctor, Lachman Parshad;
+native secretary and Manipuri interpreter; Burmese interpreter;
+Naga interpreter; Kuki interpreter; and latterly six chuprassies,
+i.e., orderlies or lictors. As for private servants we had three Naga
+girls, a Mugh cook and assistant, who could turn out a dinner equal to
+any of the London clubs for one hundred people at a couple of days'
+notice, and under him I had four young Nagas learning their work,
+as I was determined to do more for my successors than my predecessors
+had done for me, viz., teach and train up a staff of servants so as
+to save the necessity of importing the scum of Calcutta. I had an
+excellent bearer, Horna, as I have already stated, and under him were
+two or three Nagas; washermen, syces, gardeners, water-carriers,
+etc., made up the number. All my interpreters, chuprassies, and
+servants, I clothed in scarlet livery which made a great impression,
+and gradually the air of squalor which prevailed when I arrived began
+to disappear. I had charge of a Government Treasury from which I used
+to pay myself and the Government establishment. The currency of the
+country was a small bell-metal coin called "Sel," of which 400 to
+480 went to the rupee, also current, but copper pice were not used,
+and all Manipuri accounts were kept in "Sel."
+
+At this time the Naga Hills were still under a political officer
+whose actual jurisdiction was limited to the villages which had paid
+tribute to me, as already described. He was supposed to exercise a
+certain influence over many of the large villages, but the influence
+was lessened by the feeling entertained by the Nagas that our stay
+in the hills was uncertain, and that for all practical purposes the
+Manipuris were the power most to be reckoned with, and from our
+point of view it was very desirable that our headquarter station
+should be removed to Kohima. A dispute with Mozuma, due chiefly to
+our vacillating conduct, was now going on, but its chiefs would not
+accept our terms, and an expedition to coerce them was in preparation
+in which I was to take part. Mr. Carnegy was political officer, a man
+of ability and determination, and very pleasant to deal with. During
+the dispute with Mozuma, the other villages held aloof, thinking Mozuma
+was able to hold its own, and waiting to see which side gained the day.
+
+Burmah was still under its native rulers. There were constant frontier
+disputes going on between it and Manipur, but that state of things
+was chronic.
+
+To the south of Manipur, the Chin and Lushai tribes were quiet.
+
+There was a long standing boundary dispute between Manipur and the
+Naga Hills. The boundary had been most arbitrarily settled by us
+when the survey was carried out, so far as a certain point, beyond
+that it was vague. Manipur claimed territory which we certainly did
+not possess, and which she had visited from time to time, but did not
+actually hold in subjection. Other portions, as I afterwards proved,
+were occupied by her, though the fact had not been ascertained. Over
+and over again efforts had been made to bring the Durbar to terms,
+but without success. I determined to grapple with the question at
+once. I took a map and drew a line including all that I thought Manipur
+entitled to, in the neighbourhood of the Naga Hills, and advised the
+Maharajah to accept the arrangement on the understanding that when I
+visited the country claimed further eastward, I would recommend the
+Government of India to allow him to retain all that he actually held in
+his possession. This was agreed to by him and confirmed by Government,
+and I believe that substantial justice was done to both parties.
+
+I should like to have seen Manipur get more, as a set-off against our
+unjust treatment in former years, but as we were sure eventually, to
+occupy all the Naga Hills, it was necessary to make such an adjustment
+as would not injure British interests in the future.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    My early days in Manipur--The capital--The inhabitants--Good
+    qualities of Manipuris--Origin of valley of Manipur--Expedition
+    to the Naga Hills--Lovely scenery--Attack on Kongal Tannah by
+    Burmese--Return from Naga Hills--Visit Kongal Tannah.
+
+
+The first few weeks in Manipur were taken up in making acquaintance
+with the place and people, and doing all that was possible to disarm
+the fears of the Durbar. Never was there one so suspicious. At
+first all my movements were watched, and wherever I went spies,
+open or secret, followed; however, I encouraged it to the utmost,
+and told the officials to inquire into everything I did, and they
+very soon saw that there was no necessity for special espionage,
+though all my acts were still noted and reported. Several little
+difficulties cropped up regarding British subjects, and required some
+care in dealing with them. In one case, a man had taken upon himself
+to intrigue with some of the Nagas under Manipur, and urged them to
+declare themselves British subjects, and in another, a man had robbed
+the Maharajah. In both instances the Durbar had acted foolishly and
+precipitately, though under much provocation. However, I turned both
+men out of the country, with orders never to return.
+
+The question of British subjects and their rights was one that gave
+me much trouble for years. Judging by a decision of the High Court
+of Calcutta that all the descendants of European British subjects
+were European British subjects, I insisted on all descendants
+of British subjects being considered as such, and subject to my
+jurisdiction. After a long struggle I carried my point, and it very
+greatly strengthened my position.
+
+A few more words about the capital and the Manipuris may not be
+amiss. Imphal, as has been said, [20] covered a space of fifteen
+square miles. On the north side it touches on some low hills, called
+Ching-mai-roong, and running westward is bounded by a shallow lake,
+which is partly enclosed by a continuation of the hills, here called
+Langol, on which grows a celebrated cane used for polo sticks. Then,
+running south, it is intersected by several roads, notably the road
+to Silchar, which enters the capital at a place called Kooak-Kaithel
+(i.e. crow bazaar). Here it is bounded by rice cultivation. Going
+farther south, and sweeping round in an easterly direction, it is
+bounded by the Plain of Lang-thabal, at one extremity of which lies
+the old capital; here two rivers intersect it. And going farther east,
+it is bounded by the lower slopes of a hill rising 2500 feet above the
+valley. Then turning to the northward and crossing two rivers, we come
+again to the place from which we started. The want of the town was a
+good water-supply; there were one or two fair-sized tanks, or ponds,
+as they would be called in England, and the afore-mentioned rivers,
+of which the water is not improved by receiving the ashes of the
+dead burned on their banks. Beyond this, all the water obtainable was
+derived from small ponds, one or more of which was to be found in every
+garden enclosure. The ground on which the capital stands must at one
+time have been very low, probably a marsh, and it has been artificially
+raised from time to time by digging these tanks; every raised road,
+too, meant a deep stagnant ditch on either side. The people are not
+sanitary in their habits, and when heavy rain falls the gardens are
+flooded, and a fair share of the accumulated filth is washed into
+the drinking-tanks, the result being frequent epidemics of cholera.
+
+The Manipuris themselves are a fine stalwart race descended from an
+Indo-Chinese stock, with some admixture of Aryan blood, derived from
+the successive waves of Aryan invaders that have passed through the
+valley in prehistoric days. It may be this, or from an admixture of
+Chinese blood, but certainly the Manipuris have stable and industrious
+qualities which the Burmese and Shans do not possess. Since then the
+race has been constantly fed by additions from the various hill-tribes
+surrounding the valley. The result is a fairly homogeneous people of
+great activity and energy, with much of the Japanese aptitude for
+acquiring new arts. The men seem capable of learning anything, and
+the women are famous as weavers, and in many cases have completely
+killed out the manufacture of cloths formerly peculiar to certain
+of the hill-tribes, over whom the Manipuris have obtained mastery
+by superior intellect. They are always cheerful, even on a long and
+trying march, and are good-humoured under any difficulties and never
+apparently conscious of fatigue. They are very abstemious, and live
+chiefly on rice and fish, which is often rotten from preference. Though
+rigid Hindoos outwardly, they have a curious custom by which a man
+of low caste, marrying a high-caste woman, can be adopted into her
+tribe, the exact reverse of what prevails in India, where a woman of
+high caste marrying a low-caste man is hopelessly degraded and her
+children outcasts.
+
+It is impossible for those who have marched much in the hills with
+Manipuris to avoid liking them. Their caste prejudices, though rigid,
+give no trouble to others. Hungry or not, they are always ready to
+march, and march all day and all night, if necessary. Still, the
+Indo-Chinese races exceed even the ordinary Asiatic in reserve and
+sphinx-like characteristics, and the Manipuris are an inscrutable
+set. I had many intimate friends among them, yet, on the whole,
+prefer the pure Hindoo.
+
+What is now the valley of Manipur was evidently once a series of
+valleys and ranges of hills, between the higher ranges which now border
+it and converge to the south. The rivers now flowing through the valley
+then flowed through it like the Barak, Eerung, and others, at a much
+lower level. One of the great earthquakes, to which these regions are
+so subject, closed the outlet and raised a permanent barrier; thus
+a lake was formed, and in the course of ages the alluvium brought
+down by the streams filled it up to its present level leaving the
+Logtak Lake in its lowest part, a lake which has constantly lessened
+and is still lessening in size. The crests of the sunken ranges are
+still to be seen running down the valley, and mostly parallel to the
+bordering ranges, such are Langol, Langthabal, Phoiching, Lokching,
+and others. Sometimes a river, as at a place called "Eeroce Semba,"
+runs at the base of a hill, and cuts away the alluvium, showing the
+solid rock. This alluvium forms one of the deepest and richest soils
+in the world.
+
+I have referred to the proposed expedition to the Naga Hills, to aid
+the troops there in the operations against the powerful village of
+Mozuma. In order to take part in this expedition I had brought up one
+hundred men of the 35th Native Infantry, from Cachar, and I started
+from Manipur on December 3rd, 1877, having sent on the 35th and a
+Manipuri force of over three hundred men under the Minister Bularam
+Singh. I rode out the first day to Mayang Khang, a distance of forty
+miles, where I caught up my men. I passed Sengmai at a distance of
+thirteen miles on the border of the valley, and up to which the road
+is flat, and soon entered a broken country, first grass, then scrub,
+then forest. The road lay over a succession of spurs of the Kowpree
+Hills which run down into a very narrow valley, and was as bad as
+can be imagined--very steep ascents and descents. At last we reached
+Kaithemabee, the second stage, and fourteen miles from Sengmai. It
+is exceedingly picturesquely situated, having a splendid view of the
+Kowpree range, here rising to over 8000 feet. The outpost is situated
+on a high bank overlooking a stream, and beyond it a splendid rolling
+slope of grass extending for miles.
+
+All this part of the country is covered with beehive-shaped cairns,
+built of well-selected stones. They are said to have been made by
+the Köereng Nagas, formerly a very powerful race, whose miserable
+remnants now inhabit the neighbouring hills. Farther on the bee-hives
+end suddenly, and a region of monoliths is entered. Probably both
+monoliths and bee-hives were erected to commemorate great events
+in the lives of the builders, the death of a chief, the birth of
+a son, the giving of a great feast when a bison, or possibly many,
+were killed. Monoliths are common, and exist all over the Naga Hills
+and among the Kolarian and Dravidian tribes, as well as all over
+Europe. Cairns also are common, but the beehive-shaped cairns are,
+I believe, unique, and found only in Manipur and in this neighbourhood.
+
+I reached Mayung Khang at 4 P.M., having an hour before crossed the
+watershed, all the streams south of it falling into the tributaries of
+the Chindwin Irrawaddy, all to the north running into the tributaries
+of the Ganges and Burrhampooter.
+
+Mayung Khang is a highly undulating grassy slope, the Kowpree rising
+to nearly nine thousand feet in the west, while after crossing a small
+stream a lower range closes it in on the east. We halted there for
+the night close to a monolith, and the next day marched to Mythephum.
+
+Mythephum or Muphum (lit. Manipuri settlement) was a small military
+post, and we encamped below in a wide valley among recently cut
+rice fields, with a river rushing by us. The place is so named from
+having been a Manipuri settlement, in the old days before the Burmese
+invasion. High hills rose above us on all sides, the valley running
+in and out among them and following the course of the stream. To
+our north, and at a distance of a mile or two, was the once powerful
+village of Muram, still populous but submissive. I had a small but
+most comfortable straw-built hut, and well remember how delightful the
+early morning was next day, when I had breakfast at sunrise and saw
+my thermometer at thirty-two degrees. Only those accustomed to great
+heat realise the delights of a low thermometer. Mythephum is over
+4000 feet above the sea, and being a low valley is often extremely
+cold. Sometimes in winter the stream is for a day quite choked by
+blocks of ice, and I have seen the thermometer at twenty-six degrees,
+150 feet above the valley, which probably meant eighteen degrees at
+the lowest level on the grass.
+
+It was my intention to march on Mozuma by a track which would avoid
+the powerful villages of Viswema, Kohima, Jotsuma and Konoma, and
+enable me to attack the enemy in the rear. Half-way I was delayed
+by receiving no letter from Mr. Carnegy, with whom I had to act in
+concert, and this prevented me from reaching the scene of operations,
+as I received the startling news that the Manipuri outpost of Kongal
+Tannah on the borders of the Kubo valley had been attacked on December
+14th by a party of men sent by the Rajah of Sumjok or Thoungdoot,
+and eight men killed. This threw the whole population of Manipur into
+a state of commotion, and the Maharajah begged me to return at once,
+and I felt it my duty to do so, as my chief work was to protect Manipur
+and its interests. I therefore returned to Manipur on December 17th,
+leaving my party on the frontier, where they remained some time longer,
+the Nagas being unwilling to submit; and making overtures instead to
+the Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. He sternly declined their offers,
+and threatened that if they did not speedily yield to the British
+authorities, he would send a large force to our aid.
+
+The Naga Hills Campaign of that year had no further interest for
+Manipur, and it had a sad ending for us, as Mr. Carnegy was accidently
+shot by a sentry.
+
+The "Kongal outrage," as it was thenceforth called, was so serious and
+so evidently premeditated, that a most thorough inquiry was needed. It
+took some time to collect evidence as wounded men had to be brought
+in, and it was the end of the month before I was able to proceed to
+the spot. At last I started and crossed the Yoma range of hills for
+the first time. What a lovely march it was and what an anxious one,
+as I left my wife not at all well, and no one but an ignorant and
+not very sweet-tempered English nurse to look after her. However,
+duty must come first, and off I started, posting relays of ponies on
+the way to enable me to return quickly when the work was done. Thangal
+Major accompanied me.
+
+The first part of our march lay across the valley, and we began the
+ascent of the hills at a place called Ingorok. After a wearisome ascent
+of 3500 feet and a more gradual one along the crest, we made a rapid
+descent of 4000 feet to the Turet river, where we encamped. The river
+runs at the bottom of an exceedingly narrow valley, and the ascent on
+both sides is one of the most wearisome I have ever made. On a dark
+night lights on the hillside above, appear as stars from the bed of
+the stream. The scenery was majestic, and the vegetation very fine. The
+next day we commenced with a steep ascent of 2500 feet, and ended with
+a descent of 3000 feet to the Maghung river. From the Maghung next
+morning we started for Kongal Tannah, which we reached in good time.
+
+I carefully examined the place and saw the charred remains of the
+murdered men, and many bullets still sticking in the stockade. The
+evidence being complete, I turned homewards, and by travelling
+incessantly reached Manipur next morning to find that my wife had
+presented me with another son, the first pure European child born in
+Manipur. It had been an anxious time for me, and I was thankful to
+find both her and the baby well. We named the baby Arthur.
+
+I sent a full report of the Kongal case to the Government of India,
+and a demand for reparation was made at the Court of Mandalay,
+but it was not backed up with sufficient vigour. The outrage was
+unprovoked, and nothing less than the execution of the ringleaders,
+who were well known, would have satisfied Manipur, and, indeed,
+the claims of justice, but though the case dragged on for years, no
+redress was ever given. I predicted at the time that failure to do
+justice would eventually lead to underhand reprisals on the part of
+Manipur, as the Durbar could not understand our Government tolerating
+an attack of this kind on a protected state, and naturally ascribed our
+forbearance to weakness. I shall have to refer to the case farther on.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Discussions as to New Residency--Its completion--Annual boat
+    races--Kang-joop-kool--Daily work--Dealings with the Durbar.
+
+
+I have briefly described the old Residency which was rented from
+the Heir Apparent. Money had been sanctioned for a new Residency,
+to belong to the British Government, but there had been squabbles
+for a long time between my predecessors and the Durbar regarding a
+suitable site. Also such a building as was required could only be
+built with the help of the Durbar whom it was advisable to conciliate.
+
+One of my predecessors wished to build on a small hill called
+"Chinga," about a mile from the palace. It was an admirable site,
+and had the position of the Political Agent been similar to that in
+other Indian States, it could not have been better. But in Manipur, the
+representative of the Government of India was regarded by the Maharajah
+as a powerful prop and support in case of his throne being attacked,
+as was constantly the case in former years. On this ground the Durbar
+objected that it was too far off; also that the place was reported
+to be the residence of an evil spirit inimical to the Royal family,
+so that it was not a convenient spot for the Maharajah to visit. So,
+after many acrimonious disputes, the negotiation fell through.
+
+Another Political Agent chose a site called Ching-mai-roong, which
+in many ways was very satisfactory, and the Durbar reluctantly
+consented to give it, but it was a mile and a half from the palace,
+and therefore much out of the way. The question was still in abeyance
+when I arrived. As soon as I had time, I discussed the matter with
+the Durbar, and found the Maharajah much averse to my removal from
+the old site. He said "Where you are now, I can call to you; but if
+you go to a distance, I shall be cut off entirely."
+
+I quite saw the advisability of being on the spot, also in what I may
+call the fashionable quarter of the town; and, as from a sanitary point
+of view, the position was as good as any other, I agreed to stay, on
+condition that all the squalid houses and slums in the neighbourhood
+were cleared away, dirty tanks filled, and others deepened, and a fine
+large space cleared and handed over to me. I further insisted that
+I should have all the assistance necessary in building a suitable
+Residency. My terms were agreed to, and the work put in hand. I
+determined to have a building worthy of the representative of the
+British Government, and sacrificed everything to suitable rooms, and
+sound construction, so that it was not till the end of 1880 that it
+was finished.
+
+I was greatly indebted to my head clerk, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo, who
+acted as clerk of the works. The result was a charming residence. It
+was in the half-timber style of old English houses, modified to suit
+the climate, all on one floor, but raised on a solid brick foundation,
+which gave a lower storey seven feet in height, thus keeping us high
+and dry, the house being approached on four sides by flights of solid
+masonry steps. The lower storey was built so as to be shot proof, as I
+designed it as a place of retreat from stray shot for non-combatants,
+in the event of the Residency being again, as it had been before,
+subjected to a cross-fire from contending parties during one of the
+many revolutions so common to Manipur. Little did I dream that folly,
+and incompetency would ever lead to our being directly attacked!
+
+The large compound, about sixteen acres in extent, was surrounded
+by a mud breastwork and ditch, quite capable of being defended, if
+necessary, and there were four entrances which I named respectively,
+the Great Gate, the Milking Gate, my cows'-shed being close to it,
+the Water Gate and the Kang-joop-kool Gate. I made a riding road all
+round to exercise ponies, and besides making a splendid kitchen garden,
+adding considerably to Colonel McCulloch's, we laid out flower beds,
+and had cool shady spots for the heat of the day. Deodars and other
+exotic trees were imported by me and throve wonderfully. One large
+sheet of water with an island in the centre was cleared, deepened,
+and the banks repaired, and as I never allowed a bird to be killed, it
+was covered in winter with water-fowls to the number of four hundred
+and fifty or five hundred of every kind, from wild geese downwards,
+and rare birds took refuge in the trees. In the north-east corner of
+the compound were the lines for my escort, with a tank of the purest
+drinking water, where formerly squalor and filth had held sway. Finally
+I covered most of the large trees with beautiful orchids, so that in
+the season we had a blaze of colour. I spared no expense on the garden,
+and we were rewarded. Altogether the Residency and its grounds formed
+a beautiful and comfortable resting-place.
+
+The new building was also commodious and contained a handsome
+Durbar-room for receptions 24 feet square, fine dining and
+drawing-rooms, very airy and comfortable bedrooms, etc., with an
+office for myself. The pantry was so arranged that cold draughts
+of air, so great a drawback in Indian houses in cold weather,
+were avoided when dinner was being brought in. The bedrooms had
+fireplaces, and the sitting-rooms excellent stoves which in winter
+were very necessary. The shot-proof rooms in the basement were not
+used, except one for a storeroom, and the one under the verandah of
+the Durbar-room, used as a sleeping place by the men of my guard.
+
+The Great Gate was a picturesque half-timber structure, with rooms on
+either side, one of which I built specially as a pneumonia hospital,
+so it was designed with a view to maintaining an equable temperature,
+pneumonia being a great scourge among newly arrived Hindoostani
+sepoys. Not long after I left, it was diverted to other purposes,
+being considered too good for a hospital!
+
+"With the exception of the Residency, no house when I left Manipur,
+was built of brick, partly from fear of earthquakes, partly on
+account of expense. The ordinary houses of the people are huts with
+wattle and daub or mud walls, those of greater folks the same, but
+on a larger scale. Every house has a verandah in front with the main
+entrance leading from it, and a little side door on the north side
+close to the west end, the houses invariably facing east. The roofs
+are all of thatch, with the exception of the Rajah's, which was of
+corrugated iron. There were several temples built of brick stuccoed
+over. One in the palace had an iron roof, another a gilded one. I
+sent some models of these temples and several other buildings to the
+Indian and Colonial Exhibition of 1886, every beam and rafter being
+represented and made according to scale. The larger of the temples
+had bells of a fine deep tone. Some of the approaches to the Rajah's
+dwelling-house were made of brick. Formerly the palace enclosure
+was entered from the front by a quaint and picturesque old gateway,
+not beautiful, but characteristic of Manipur; the old Rajah Chandra
+Kirtee Singh substituted for it a tawdry and fantastic structure with
+a corrugated iron roof, a structure without any merit, and quite out
+of keeping with its surroundings. I remonstrated in vain; shoddy and
+vulgar tastes had penetrated even to Manipur, and the picturesque
+old building that spoke of bygone ages was doomed; but we who have
+destroyed so many fine buildings, have little right to criticise.
+
+"Close to the gateway is the place where the grand stand is erected,
+from which the Rajah and his relations view the boat races on the
+palace moat. I say 'view,' as in old age, a Rajah sits there all
+the time; but in the prime of life he takes part in these races,
+steering one of the boats himself. These boat races generally take
+place in September when the moat is full, and are the great event
+of the year. Every one turns out to see them, the Ranees and other
+female relations being on the opposite side of the moat, for in Manipur
+there is no concealment of women, while the side next to the road is
+thronged with spectators. The boatmen have a handsome dress peculiar
+to the occasion, and the whole scene is highly interesting. The boats
+are canoes hewn out of single trees of great size, and are decorated
+with colour and carving." [21]
+
+The valley of Manipur is hot and steamy in the rainy season, and
+Colonel McCulloch built a small hut at a place called Kang-joop-kool,
+situated on a spur of the Kowpree range, to the west of the valley
+at a height of 5170 feet above the sea. The distance from the capital
+was fourteen miles, and four from the foot of the hills, and he lived
+there for the whole of the rainy season, except for a few visits to
+the capital. His successors till my time did not stay there much,
+but I bought a small hut from my immediate predecessor, and pulled it
+down, and built a new one far more commodious. I enclosed the land,
+and laid out a small garden, and planted a wood of Khasia pines,
+the land being quite bare, and in time it became a most charming
+place. It was pleasant to leave the ceremonial life at the capital,
+where I never walked out without a train of followers clad in scarlet
+liveries, and settle down quietly at Kang-joop-kool where we could
+roam about the hills as if we had been in England.
+
+I spent little or no time in sporting, my eyes were never very good,
+and before I came to Manipur had become so deficient in what oculists
+call power of "accommodation," that, though formerly a fairly good
+shot, I was then a bad one. In one way this was an advantage, as all
+my interests were concentrated on my work, and nothing of greater
+interest could have been found. Somehow or other, there was subject
+for conversation with State officials and non-officials, to last me
+from early morning till night, and fill up every spare moment. My
+door was always open, and the guard at the great gate had orders to
+let every one pass. All the minor gates were unguarded.
+
+No attempt was made by the Durbar, as in other native states, to
+bribe the Residency servants, except in one notable case that happened
+before my time. All negotiations were carried on with the Political
+Agent direct, and the penurious Manipuris would have thought it waste
+of money to bribe his servants. This was a very satisfactory state
+of things, and probably saved many unpleasant complications.
+
+In my dealings with the Durbar, I always tried to bear in mind that
+I was the representative of the strong dealing with the weak, and
+so to ignore little silly acts of self-assertion, such as a native
+court loves to indulge in, and childish ebullitions, as unworthy of
+notice. Whenever it became necessary for me to interfere, I did so
+with great firmness, but always tried to carry the Maharajah and his
+ministers with me, and make any desired reform appear to emanate from
+him. Except on one occasion, I never experienced any rudeness from
+an official.
+
+At the same time when any attempt was made to infringe on the rights of
+the British Government or its subjects, I spoke in very unmistakable
+language. I think the Durbar gave me credit for good intentions and
+appreciated my desire to work with them; of course they tried to get
+all they could out of me, and it was a daily, but, on the whole,
+friendly struggle between us. I knew perfectly well that to exalt
+themselves, the Court party spoke of me behind my back in disparaging
+terms, and boasted of what they could do, and of their independence
+of the British Government, but I was quite satisfied that they did
+not believe what they said, and that in all important matters they
+deferred to me on every point, and were always coming to me to help
+them out of difficulties. I kept in mind Colonel McCulloch's wise
+saying to the Rajah: "I don't care what you say of me, so long as
+you do as I tell you."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Violent conduct of Prince Koireng--A rebuke--Service
+    payment--Advantage of Manipuri system--Customs
+    duty--Slavery--Releasing slaves--Chowba's fidelity--Sepoy's
+    kindness to children--Visit to the Yoma range.
+
+
+An incident occurred which might have caused some trouble, while
+it served to show the violent disposition of Kotwal Koireng, later
+known as the Senaputtee. One evening my Naga interpreter reported
+to me that an Angami Naga of Kohima had been cruelly assaulted by
+that prince, while he was passing along the road to the east of the
+palace enclosure. Soon after the man was brought in to me, and an
+examination by my native doctor proved that he was suffering from a
+severe contusion above the right eye, which might or might not prove
+fatal. Now, strictly speaking, the man was not a British subject,
+but some day or other he was sure to be one, and we had assumed an
+indefinite control over his people. This made me feel that passing
+over the offence as one not concerning us, would be to lose prestige
+with Manipur, as well as with the Naga tribes, who ought, I felt,
+to be assured of my sympathy. I therefore at once sent a strong
+remonstrance to the Durbar, claiming the man as a British subject, and
+demanding prompt recognition of, and reparation for the outrage. On
+further investigation it appeared, that the man was with some of his
+friends carrying a large joint of beef on his shoulder just as Kotwal
+Koireng was passing, and a few drops of blood fell on the ground;
+this enraged the Prince so much that he at once attacked the man
+with a thick stick which he carried, and beat him till he was almost
+senseless. There was no real provocation, as eating the flesh of cows
+that had died a natural death was always allowed, and any dead cow
+was at once handed over to the Nagas and other hill-tribes; it was
+simply an outburst of temper. The result was, that until the man's
+recovery was assured, Kotwal was held in a species of arrest; then
+he was released and sent with the Jubraj to make an apology to me;
+the man received a sum of money, and the affair ended amicably. I
+did not often come across the princes, though sometimes I met them
+out riding, and then we were very friendly. Once when I was walking
+out, I met one of the younger ones riding in state on an elephant,
+he forgot to make the usual salutation. This was reported to the
+Maharajah, who sent him with Thangal Major to apologize.
+
+The Manipuris paid very little revenue in money, and none in direct
+taxes. The land all belonged to the Rajah, and every holding paid a
+small quantity of rice each year. The chief payment was in personal
+service. This system known by the name of "Lalloop," and by us often
+miscalled "forced labour," was much the same as formerly existed
+in Assam under its Ahom Rajahs. According to it, each man in the
+country was bound to render ten days' service out of every forty,
+to the Rajah, and it extended to every class in the community. Women
+were naturally exempt, but, among men, the blacksmith, goldsmith,
+carpenters, etc., pursued their different crafts in the Rajah's
+workshops for the stated time, while the bulk of the population,
+the field workers, served as soldiers, and made roads or dug canals,
+in fact executed great public works for the benefit of the state.
+
+The system was a good one, and when not carried to excess, pressed
+heavily on nobody. It was especially adapted to a poor state sparsely
+populated. In such a state, under ordinary circumstances, where the
+amount of revenue is small, and the rate of wages often comparatively
+high, it is next door to impossible to carry out many much-needed
+public works by payment. On the other hand, every man in India who
+lives by cultivation, has much spare time on his hands, and the
+"Lalloop" system very profitably utilises this, and for the benefit
+of the community at large. I never heard of it being complained of as
+a hardship. The system in Assam led to the completion of many useful
+and magnificent public works. High embanked roads were made throughout
+the country, and large tanks, lakes, appropriately termed "seas," were
+excavated under this arrangement. Many of the great works of former
+ages in other parts of India are due to something of the same kind.
+
+It was a sad mistake giving up the system in Assam, without retaining
+the right of the state to a certain number of days' labour on the
+roads every year, as is the custom to this day, I believe, in Canada,
+Ceylon, and other countries.
+
+Unfortunately, our so-called statesmen are carried away by false
+ideas of humanitarianism, and a desire to pose in every way as the
+exponents of civilisation, that is the last fad that is uppermost,
+and the experience of ages and the real good of primitive people are
+often sacrificed to this ignis fatuus. I hear that "Lalloop" has been
+abolished in Manipur since we took the state in charge. We may live
+to regret it; the unfortunate puppet Rajah certainly will. Why cannot
+we leave well alone, and attack the real evils of India that remain
+still unredressed, evils that to hear of them, would make the hair of
+any decent thinking man stand on end? We have still to learn that the
+native system has much good in it, much to recommend it, and that it is
+in many cases the natural outgrowth of the requirements of the people.
+
+Manipur in old days required very little to make it a model
+native state of a unique type, and its people the happiest of the
+happy. All it required was a better administration of justice, and a
+few smaller reforms, also more enlightened fiscal regulations such as
+many European states have not yet attained. Given these, no one would
+have wished for more. No one asked for high pay; enough to live on,
+and the system of rewards already in force from time immemorial,
+satisfied all aspirations. The people were contented and happy, and
+it should have been our aim and object to keep them and leave them
+so. Shall we have accomplished this desirable object when we hand
+over the state to its future ruler, that is if it ever does again
+come under a Native Government?
+
+One of the standing grievances of the Government of India against
+Manipur, was the levying of customs duties on all articles
+imported into the state, and on some articles exported to British
+territory. These duties supplied almost the only money revenue
+the Maharajah had, and also to some extent protected Manipuri
+industries. During my tenure of office I did something towards
+regulating the system, and in the case of articles not produced in
+Manipur, induced the Durbar to lower the rates. In the case of cloths,
+however, I strongly advocated the duties being kept up, where, as
+in the case of coarse cloths the imports entered into competition
+with the excellent manufactures of Manipur, which I wished to see
+preserved in all their integrity.
+
+Our system of free trade has done much to injure useful trades in
+India, and none more than those in cotton goods. Among an ignorant
+people the incentives of cheapness and outward appearance are so great,
+that the sudden importation of cheap and inferior foreign goods may
+kill out an ancient art, and the people only discover when too late
+what they have lost, and then lament having abandoned the really good
+for the attractive flimsy article. Thus, in many parts of India,
+the beautiful chintzes which were common thirty-five years ago,
+are now nowhere to be had, and every year sees the decay of some
+branch of manufacture. This was very noticeable in Assam, and the
+arts there lost were only kept up in Manipur, owing to its having a
+Native Court where tradition and taste encouraged them. Soon after
+I went to Manipur, I found that the valley had almost been drained
+of ponies by their exportation to Cachar. The ministers consulted me
+about it, and I gave my consent to the trade being stopped, and this
+was done for years until the numbers had again increased.
+
+On the whole the duties on almost every article were lowered during
+my term of office, and the imports largely increased. Indeed, but for
+the cumbersome system of levying the custom charges, they would have
+been no grievance at all; and as it was they hardly added anything to
+the cost of the articles when sold in Manipur, many of which could
+be bought for little more than the price paid in Cachar, plus the
+charge for carriage.
+
+Slavery of a mild form existed in Manipur, the slaves being hereditary
+ones, or people, and the descendants of people who had sold themselves
+for debt, their services being pledged as interest for the debt. For
+instance a Naga (a very common case), marries a girl of another Naga
+village, thereby incurring a debt of forty rupees to the father,
+that being the price of a Naga bride. The man not being able to pay,
+his father-in-law says, "Sell yourself, and pay me." This is done, and
+the man pays the forty rupees and has to work for his master till he
+can pay the debt, something being sometimes allowed for subsistence,
+or they agree upon a monthly payment, which if not paid is added
+to the principal. The wife probably works and supports the family,
+and, if the creditor is a fairly good fellow, things go smoothly,
+and the debtor never attempts to fulfil his obligations more than
+he can help. The law allows a man to transfer his services to any
+one who will take up the debt. Here and there great abuses crop up,
+and the master takes advantage of the corrupt courts to bind the
+slave more and more securely in the chains of debt, and then every
+effort is made to escape. I often paid the debts of slaves who came
+to me for help and let them work off the money. Once a little girl
+named Nowbee came to me. Her mother had sold her to pay her father's
+funeral expenses. She stayed with us, working in the nursery for years,
+and when I left I forgave her the remainder of her debt which was
+unpaid, as, of course, I did with all the others. I once offered to
+redeem the mother, who, in turn, had sold herself, but the old woman
+declined, as some one told her that we should take her to England,
+and she was afraid to go. Sometimes cases of very cruel ill-treatment
+came before me, or cases where people had been made slaves contrary
+to the laws, and then I made a strong remonstrance to the Durbar,
+and insisted on justice. Once or twice I took the complainants under
+my protection immediately, and insisted on keeping them. One day a
+young man and a small boy came to me for protection: the case was
+a bad one, and I at once took them into my service as the best way
+of settling the difficulty, the young man as a gardener and the boy
+to work in the kitchen and wait at table; both were named "Chowba,"
+i.e. big; a name as common out there as John in England. We gave
+little Chowba clothes, and he stood behind my wife's chair at dinner,
+the first evening crying bitterly from fear. However, he learned his
+work, and became an excellent servant. When I went on leave in 1882,
+I offered to place him with my locum tenens, but the boy said, "No,
+sahib, you have been kind to me; I have broken your things and you have
+threatened to beat me, but have never done so; you have threatened to
+cut my pay, but have never done so; I will never serve any one but
+you!" The poor boy kept his word; he preferred hard toil, cutting
+wood and such-like work; but unfortunately died before I returned.
+
+Another bad case I remember, in which a woman complained to me that her
+child had been stolen from her house while she was away. I ordered the
+child to be brought to me; the poor little thing was only four years
+old, and could hardly stand from having been made to walk a great
+distance by the man who had stolen her, and whose only excuse was,
+that her father, who was dead, owed him nine rupees. I gave her to
+her mother, and insisted on the Durbar punishing him. The story was a
+sad one. The father of the child, a debtor slave, had been told by his
+master to leave his home and go with him, and the man in desperation
+attempted to kill his wife and little girl, and then committed suicide.
+
+While in Manipur I did all I could to afford relief in individual
+cases. It was a great abuse, but slavery in Manipur must not be put
+in the same rank as slavery in Brazil, the West Indies, or Turkey and
+Arabia. A thorough reform of the judicial system of Manipur would have
+entirely taken the sting out of it. All the same, I wish I could have
+abolished it.
+
+My wife's nurse very speedily left us, and we were left to natives
+and did much better with them. We always had three or four Naga girls
+who did their work well in a rough-and-ready way. Chowbee, Nembee,
+and Nowbee, just mentioned, were the best. Chowbee was the wife of
+a Naga bearer named Lintoo, and Nembee afterwards married our head
+bearer Horna. We engaged a tailor named Suleiman, brother of Sooltan,
+one of our chuprassies, as a permanent servant, to do the ordinary
+household sewing and mending. My two boys, Dick and Edward, became
+very friendly with all the people, and were drilled daily by a naick
+(corporal of my escort), and the good-natured sepoys used to allow
+themselves to be drilled by the boys. One afternoon, I met these two
+walking up the lines with my orderly. I asked what they were going
+for, and they replied that the sepoys had not done their drill well
+that day, and they were going to give them some more. Whenever a
+new detachment came, the boys were formally introduced to the new
+native officers and men. As they grew older they learned to ride,
+and rode out morning and evening when I went for a walk.
+
+As the Burmese difficulty did not show signs of decreasing, I went out
+in February to Kongjang on the Yoma range, to reconnoitre and select
+a place for a new stockade, if necessary. At three and a half miles
+on my way, I passed Langthabal, the old capital of Ghumbeer Singh,
+a pretty place where the cantonment of the Manipur Levy used to be,
+and where Captain Gordon was buried under a tree. The ruined palace
+lies nestling under a hill, on a spur of which is a magnificent
+fir tree; behind the palace a garden run to waste and wood, with
+a few ponds, formed an admirable cover for ducks, which I saw in
+abundance. After leaving Langthabal, we passed a place called Leelong,
+the place of execution for members of the Royal family, who are sewn
+up in sacks and drowned in the river. Farther on is a great fishing
+weir, where a small lake discharges itself into a river. At last,
+after a march of thirty miles, I halted at Pullel, a village of low
+caste Manipuris. Next morning we ascended the Yoma range, reaching
+Aimole, a village picturesquely situated and inhabited by a tribe
+of that name. The head of the village was an intelligent old man,
+who remembered Captain Gordon and talked a good deal about him. I
+gave him a coat, and the girls and boys of the village got up a dance
+for my benefit, the most graceful and modest that I ever saw among
+a wild people.
+
+I reached Kongjang in the afternoon, a place very picturesquely
+situated, with a fine view of the valley of the Lokchao and the hills
+beyond, and of a portion of the Kubo valley. I selected a spot for a
+stockade, and, after reconnoitring in the neighbourhood, marched back
+next day to Pullel, and thence to Manipur, again passing Langthabal. I
+never saw Langthabal without regretting its abandonment, there is
+something very charming about the situation, and it is nearer to
+Bissenpore on the Cachar road than Imphal; also a few miles nearer the
+Kubo valley. It has always had the reputation of being very healthy,
+which is not invariably the case with Imphal, and is, if anything,
+a little cooler. Before leaving in 1886, I strongly recommended it
+as the site for a cantonment, in the event of troops being stationed
+in the valley. My recommendation was adopted.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+    An old acquaintance--Monetary crisis--A cure for breaking
+    crockery--Rumour of human sacrifices--Improved postal
+    system--Apricots and mulberries--A snake story--Search after
+    treasure--Another snake story--Visit to Calcutta--Athletics--Ball
+    practice--A near shave.
+
+
+We had not been dull in the Naga Hills, still less in Manipur, for
+I was always interested in native life. Something to vary one's work
+was constantly occurring.
+
+One day some men in Shan costume came and asked me for a pass to enter
+Burmah. I inquired who they were, and one said he was the Chowmengti
+Gohain. I remembered him fourteen years before, at Sudya, in Assam,
+when he was but a boy. He was the son of a Khampti chief, long since
+dead. I asked him if he remembered me, and after a minute or two,
+he did. I managed to keep up a conversation in Singpho, though I had
+not spoken it for many years, and have never done so since. He was
+going to Mandalay to marry a daughter to the king.
+
+Time went on fairly smoothly. I was occupied all day long, and used to
+talk for hours to the ministers and others who came to see me, while my
+wife looked after the house and children, and taught the Naga girls to
+knit and sew, and other useful things. When the weather grew too hot,
+we migrated to Kang-joop-kool, and enjoyed the change. About this time
+much dissatisfaction was caused by speculators in the capital hoarding
+"sel," the coin of the country. The usual rate at which they were
+exchanged for the rupee was 480 = 1 rupee, but there were occasional
+fluctuations; large sums were paid in rupees, but the amount was
+always reckoned in sel. Consequently, when the latter were hoarded,
+a man having only rupees in his possession found their purchasing
+power greatly diminished. On this occasion, almost all the "sel" in
+circulation were collected in a few hands and a panic was the result;
+the bazaar was in an uproar, and business ceased. I spoke to the
+Maharajah on the subject, and represented the very great injury to
+the country that would inevitably result if immediate steps were not
+taken to rectify the mischief done, and urged him to issue a large
+quantity of sel. This he did, and the exchange which had gone down
+to 240, at once rose to 400, and at this rate he fixed it, and so it
+remained all the time I was in Manipur.
+
+Our Naga boys, though intelligent and willing to learn, were careless
+and often worse, as in playing and fighting with each other, they broke
+much crockery, and the loss was serious, as it took months to replace
+it. I threatened in vain, as I could not bear to make the poor lads
+pay. At last, in desperation, I hit upon a remedy; I said that the
+next time anything was broken, the breaker should pound it up to a
+fine powder with a pestle and mortar, and mix it with water and drink
+it. This threat had some effect, but at last one day the old cook
+brought up Murumboo, our musalchee (i.e. dishwasher) with a vegetable
+dish in pieces, broken, as usual, in play. I said very severely,
+"Very well, grind it to powder in a pestle and mortar, and then you
+shall mix it with water and drink it." So Murumboo sat for hours in
+the sun, pounding away. At last it was reduced to a fine powder, and I
+told him to mix it with water and drink it in my presence. Of course,
+what I had foreseen, happened, all the other servants headed by the
+old cook, Horna and Sultan, came up and humbly begged that he might
+be forgiven this time, a request which I graciously acceded to, and
+Murumboo went away very penitent. The result was excellent, as for the
+future I hardly lost any crockery. Poor Murumboo; he served me well,
+and became an excellent cook and got a good place when I finally left.
+
+The summer and autumn passed quietly, except for a rumour that human
+sacrifices had been offered up, though no actual complaint was made. I
+believe the report to have been true. I had seen enough of countries
+where within a few years they had been undoubtedly offered, to know
+that such things did occasionally happen among ignorant people, where
+appeasing evil spirits is a common custom. I took such precautions
+as effectually prevented any recurrence of this horrible practice.
+
+One reform carried out was in our postal arrangements. When I first
+arrived, the post, which came in every other day, frequently took eight
+days to reach us from Cachar, a distance of 132 miles. By altering
+the system, I reduced it to a maximum of four days, though it often
+came more quickly, and by constantly hammering at all concerned,
+I achieved the triumph of a daily post delivered in less than two
+days from Cachar before I left.
+
+Once when riding between Manipur and Kang-joop-kool, I saw, in passing
+a small bazaar, a woman selling apricots. I made inquiries about them,
+and was told that they had existed from time immemorial, but that they
+would give me a violent internal pain if I ate them. I did try them,
+raw and cooked, but the statement was quite true, nothing made them
+agreeable, and I did suffer pain. They were probably introduced from
+China in early days, and having been neglected had degenerated. They
+blossom in January. I tried Himalayan apricots, and the trees throve
+wonderfully, but could never, while I was in Manipur, learn to blossom
+at the right time. They blossomed as they were accustomed to do in
+their native country, that is three months too late, and the fruit was
+destroyed by the early rains. Perhaps they have by this time adapted
+themselves to the climate. I introduced Kabulee mulberries and they
+did well, but those in the valley grew long like the Indian variety,
+while those at Kang-joop-kool were shaped like the common European
+mulberry, and very good to eat.
+
+Another time when out riding in the evening, I witnessed a strange
+sight. I was near Kooak Kaithel when I saw a large number of sparrows
+assembled on the road in front, and perched on a clump of bamboos near;
+others were constantly joining them, and numbers were flying to the
+spot from all sides. They first joined the assemblage on the road,
+and then flew up to and around the bamboos, which were already covered
+with the first-comers. I asked one of my mounted orderlies what it all
+meant. He said that a snake was concealed among the bamboos, and that
+the birds were come to see him and try and drive him out. Whatever be
+the explanation, it was a very interesting sight, and I never at any
+time saw such a large number of small birds together. Once when riding
+along this same road, but farther on, in company with Thangal Major,
+I happened to see a deep hole freshly dug in the side of a hill,
+apparently without any object. I asked him what it was dug for, and
+he replied that it was probably some refugee returned to the land of
+his ancestors, who had dug it, in search for treasure buried during
+the Burmese invasion by a relation, who had left an exact description
+of the spot as a guide to any of his descendants who might return. He
+said that there were many cases of this kind. I used to hear the same
+story many years ago in Assam where the truth was never questioned,
+and many were the tumuli that bore the marks of having been opened by
+searchers "for buried gold." I never knew of an authentic case of the
+kind in Manipur, but doubtless old Thangal could tell of many such;
+possibly he had shared in the proceeds.
+
+I have just related a story of birds attacking a snake, and I
+may as well tell another story in which one of his tribe was the
+aggressor. When returning from my cottage at Kang-joop-kool, after
+a day spent there in October, I saw an enormous python poised up
+on the high embanked road with its head erect, and body and tail in
+coils on the slope, ready to spring on some young buffaloes grazing
+near; it must have been at the lowest estimate thirty feet long and
+of proportionate thickness. I was too near, and riding too fast, to
+stop my pony, so gave a loud shout, and urged him to speed, and the
+snake turned itself back and fell with a crash into a morass by the
+road side, and I saw no more of it. I spoke to Thangal Major about
+it, and he told me that pythons were known to exist about the place
+where I saw this. I once shot a young one on the Diphoo Panee river,
+near Sudya, which measured nine feet, and a sepoy of my old regiment
+shot one near Borpathar fifteen feet in length.
+
+Several very deadly snakes abound in Manipur, notably the "Tanglei"
+and the "Ophiophagus," a terrible looking creature, eight to twelve
+feet in length. No house is safe from snakes, and in the old Residency
+one fell from the roof once in my bedroom, from where a few minutes
+previously the baby's bassinette had hung, so the child had a narrow
+escape. I never dare let the children play alone in the garden for
+fear of their being bitten.
+
+The extreme loneliness of Manipur, and the necessity of leaving my
+wife and children quite alone sometimes, made me very anxious to get
+some trustworthy English nurse for her, but we quite failed in doing
+so. In this emergency, one of her sisters volunteered to come out,
+which was a great help and relief. As I had to go to Calcutta to see
+the Viceroy in December, we asked her to meet us there. We left Manipur
+on November 27th, 1878, and returned on January 23rd, bringing her
+with us. Kohima was occupied by the Political Agent of the Naga Hills
+(Mr. Damant), in November, and before leaving for Calcutta I had some
+correspondence with him, and, at his request, sent my escort--then
+consisting of Cachar Frontier Police; men, for service qualities in the
+hills, far superior to the Native Infantry I had--to his assistance.
+
+In Calcutta, I met Sir Steuart Bayley, who had been lately appointed
+Chief Commissioner of Assam, and had interviews with the Viceroy,
+Lord Lytton, and the Foreign Secretary, Mr. (now Sir Alfred) Lyall.
+
+Early in 1879, there was some discontent on account of the dearness of
+rice, owing to a deficient crop, but there was no real anxiety, as the
+stock of rice in hand was sufficient. I remember that during that time
+I was rather scandalised at hearing that the old Ranee had gone off to
+Moirang on the Logtak lake for change of air, accompanied by a retinue
+of over one thousand persons. Many people had been employed for weeks
+past in building a little temporary town for their accommodation,
+and all for five days' stay. I remonstrated with Thangal Major at
+this useless waste of resources at a time when food was scarce, and
+told him that he ought to prevent such thoughtlessness. He told me,
+and I believe sincerely, that he greatly regretted it, and promised
+to use his influence to amend matters, but said what was perfectly
+true, that if he gave good advice, there were plenty of people quite
+ready to offer the reverse, and contradict his statements. I often
+thought what an advantage it would have been, if we had insisted on
+all authority being in the hands of one powerful minister responsible
+to us. Under a strong man like Chandra Kirtee Singh there would have
+been some difficulty in arranging it, but under his weak, though
+amiable and intelligent successor, Soor Chandra, it would have been
+easy, and would have saved us one of the most painful and disgraceful
+episodes in our history.
+
+Almost every day brought some exciting news from the frontier. One
+day, an incursion by Chussad Kukies on the Kubo side; another, an
+outrage committed by Sookti Kukies. Then a little later a report that
+the Muram Nagas were restless. All these reports came to me at once,
+and I had to decide what was to be done. Occasionally an expedition
+was the result, regarding the conduct of which I gave general
+instructions. Sometimes late at night a minister came to me in a high
+state of excitement at some outrage on the Burmese frontier, in which,
+of course, every one, from the Court of Mandalay downwards, was said
+to be implicated. Anything against Burmah was readily believed, and
+not without reason, perhaps, judging from past history, and I had,
+on the spur of the moment, to decide on the policy to be adopted,
+and calm down and convince my impulsive visitor.
+
+Manipur is a great place for athletics, and some fine wrestling is to
+be seen there. Athletic sports are regularly held at stated periods,
+sometimes for Manipuris, at other times for Nagas. At the last there
+are races run by men, carrying heavy weights on their backs. At the
+conclusion of these exhibitions of strength and skill, four Manipuris,
+dressed in Naga costume, executed a Naga war dance. This I always
+thought the most interesting part of the performance, showing as
+in many other cases, the tacit acknowledgment of a connection with
+the hill-tribes surrounding them. It always reminded me of the
+same connection between the Rajahs in the hill tracts of Orissa,
+Sumbulpore and Chota Nagpore, and their aboriginal subjects. I am
+rather inclined to believe that in the case of Manipur some of the
+customs point distinctly to the Rajahs being descended from, or having
+been originally installed by, the hill-tribes, as was notably the
+case in Keonjhur one of the Cuttack Tributary Mehals. To this subject,
+however, I have already referred.
+
+During each cold season, I insisted on the Manipuri troops being put
+through musketry practice with ball cartridge, and often attended
+for hours together, with the Maharajah, to see how the men acquitted
+themselves. Sometimes the firing went on all day, the targets being
+erected at one end of the private polo ground in the palace, with a
+mountain of rice straw in their rear to catch stray bullets. Sometimes
+the bullets went through everything, and one evening, as my wife
+and myself with the children, were taking our evening walk, we had
+ocular demonstration of this, as a shot passed close to my second
+boy's (Edward) head. I spoke to Thangal Major about it, suggesting
+that the pile of straw should be made thicker, but only elicited the
+reply, "Of course, if you go in the line of fire, you must expect to
+be shot." This reminded me of my early days in Assam, when my old
+regimental friend Ross shot another friend out snipe shooting. The
+latter complained, but all the satisfaction he got from Ross was,
+"Well, you must have been in the way."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+    Spring in Manipur--Visit to Kombang--Manipuri orderlies--Parade
+    of the Maharajah's guards--Birth of a daughter--An evening walk
+    in the capital--Polo--Visit to Cachar.
+
+
+The spring in Manipur is a charming time, the nights are still cool,
+though the days are hot, and abundance of flowering trees come into
+blossom; among them one that attains a considerable size, called
+in Manipuri "Chinghow." It has two kinds, one with pink and the
+other white and pink flowers, Out in the hills are wild pears and
+azaleas in abundance, and rhododendrons, while here and there are
+beautiful orchids. The oak forests too are splendid with the fresh
+young leaves, and every hill village has peach trees in flower, so
+that it is a delightful season for marching, and one can be out from
+morning till night. I took advantage of the fine weather, and early
+in April again visited the Yoma range, and went along the road to
+Jangapokee Tannah, as far as a place called Kombang, 4600 feet above
+the sea. On my way there and back I halted at Haitoo-pokpee, 2600
+feet above the sea, where the thermometer at sunrise stood at 55 and
+56 degrees respectively; but the day between, when I was at Kombang,
+it was 67 degrees at sunrise, the additional elevation raising the
+thermometer. I noticed the phenomenon over and over again in Manipur,
+and in the cold weather generally found the sunrise temperature lower
+in the valley than in the hills. Upland valleys were sometimes colder
+than that of Manipur, and now and then to the north I found very great
+cold prevailing on high land, as at Mythephum. The day temperature
+in the hills was invariably lower than that in the valley, in short,
+it was more equable. The road to Kombang was pretty, but the place not
+particularly so. The night I was there I heard the loud crackling of
+a burning oak forest set on fire to clear the ground for one crop. It
+is difficult to speak with patience of this abominable system, which
+is gradually clearing the hills in Eastern India, and destroying
+valuable timber, while it encourages nomadic habits in the tribes.
+
+Whenever I went on an expedition into the hills, besides the usual
+Manipuri Guard in attendance, four or five officers or non-commissioned
+officers were told off to accompany me. Jemadars Thamur Singh, Sowpa,
+Sundha, Thut-tôt, and Thûrûng were those generally sent, excellent
+men who never left me from morning till night, on the hardest
+march. Many was the adventure we had together, and any one of them
+could march fifty miles on end. They were well known throughout the
+hill territory of Manipur. A bugler always formed one of my party,
+and it was his duty to sound a lively quick march as we approached
+our camp in the evening. Of course, he always got a special reward
+from me on my return to headquarters.
+
+One day the Maharajah invited me to attend a review of his regiment
+of guards called the "Soor Pultun." I went, and he asked me whether
+he should put them through their manoeuvres himself, or let one of
+his officers do it. Not wishing him, as I thought, to expose his
+ignorance, I suggested the last; but, to my surprise, he conducted
+the parade himself very creditably, giving the word of command in
+English with great clearness. The men's marching was poor, and the
+step not free enough, but otherwise they did well. They were fairly
+well up in the Light Infantry exercises of ten years back, and their
+drill generally was a slight modification of that of 1859. On this,
+as on most occasions, when an invitation was sent by the Maharajah,
+it was conveyed by two or three officers of not lower rank than that
+of subadar or captain, and generally by word of mouth. If I was away
+in camp all communications were by letter, sometimes accompanied by
+a verbal message.
+
+On February 28th, 1879, we were gladdened by the birth of a little
+daughter. Being a girl, her arrival did not cause as much excitement
+as Arthur's, but when she was old enough to be carried out in a small
+litter, all the population turned out to see her, and passers-by
+would sometimes offer her a flower. How interesting our daily walks
+were. Turning to the left, after leaving our gate by the guard-house,
+we passed along by the wide moat surrounding the palace, and in which
+as has been said the great annual boat races were held. There, might
+be seen women washing their babies by the waterside in wooden tubs,
+cut out of a single block bought for the purpose. At every step, if
+in the evening, we passed or were passed by gaily clad women carrying
+baskets of goods to sell in the great bazaar, "Sena Kaithel," i.e.,
+Golden Bazaar, assembled opposite the great gate of the palace, the
+picturesque structure already alluded to. In this bazaar the women
+sat in long rows on raised banks of earth, without any other covering
+in the rainy weather than large umbrellas. Here could be bought cloth
+of all kinds, ornaments, rice, etc., fowls and vegetables. Dogs were
+also sold for food. As a rule, articles of food other than fowls,
+were more plentiful in the morning bazaar. Blind people and other
+beggars would post themselves in different parts of the market,
+and women as they passed would give them a handful of rice, or any
+other article of food they possessed. Women are the great traders,
+and many would walk miles in the morning, and buy things in the more
+distant bazaars to sell again in the capital in the evening. It was
+not considered etiquette for men too often to frequent the bazaars,
+and few Manipuris did so, but crowds of hill-men were constantly
+to be seen there, and it presented a very gay and animated scene,
+the contrast between the snow-white garments of Manipuri men, the
+parti-coloured petticoats of the women, and the many-coloured clothes
+of the hill-men being very picturesque. Opposite the great gateway on
+the right-hand side, Royal proclamations were posted up. There, too,
+in presence of all the bazaar, offenders were flogged, generally with
+the utmost severity. This was, I am sorry to say, rather an attractive
+spectacle to foreigners. Going through the bazaar along a fine broad
+road, the only masonry bridge in the country was seen crossing the
+river, and on the opposite bank the road turned sharp to the left,
+and went off to Cachar. Before crossing it, and to the left was a
+piece of waste ground with a rather ill-looking tree in it, under
+which men were executed. Opposite, and to the right of the road,
+was the sight of the morning bazaar. Here I have seen boat-loads of
+pine-apples landed, fruit that would have done credit to Covent Garden.
+
+Between the Residency grounds, the "Sena Kaithel" and the great road,
+was the famous polo ground, where the best play in the world might be
+seen. There was a grand stand for the Royal family on the western side,
+and one for myself on the north. Sunday evening was the favourite day,
+and then the princes appeared, and in earlier days the Maharajah. In
+my time one of the Maharajah's sons, Pucca Sena, and the artillery
+major, were the champion players. In Manipur, every man who can muster
+a pony plays, and every boy who cannot, plays on foot.
+
+But to continue our walk. Passing the bazaar, we still skirt the
+palace, meeting fresh groups and turning sharp round at one of the
+angles of the moat, here covered with water lilies, come upon an
+exceedingly picturesque temple once shaded with a peepul tree (Ficus
+religiosa); this tree was torn off by the great earthquake of June
+30th, 1880. Afterwards taking two turns to the right, and one to the
+left, and crossing a most dangerous-looking bamboo bridge, we came upon
+a piece of woodland on the opposite bank of the stream. This is the
+"Mah Wathee," a bit of forest left as it originally was for the wood
+spirits. It is now filled with monkeys, which are great favourites
+with my children who have brought rice for them which causes great
+excitement. But it is soon bedtime for the young monkeys, and the
+river being deep, they spring on to the backs of their mothers who
+swim across with them in the most human fashion. Saying good-night to
+the monkeys, we go homewards, passing Moirang Khung, a tumulus said
+to be the site of a battle between the Mungang and Moirang tribes; to
+this day a Moirang avoids it. We pass a couple of boys riding jauntily
+on one pony, determined to get as much pleasure out of life as they
+can. Finally, we reach home in time for a game with the children,
+and dinner.
+
+I have alluded to the high esteem in which the game of polo was held in
+this, its native home, and of the splendid play that could be seen on
+Sundays. I never played myself, much as I should have enjoyed it. Had
+I been a highly experienced player, able to contend with the best in
+Manipur, I might have done so; but I did not think I was justified,
+holding the important position I did, in running the risk of being
+hustled and jostled by any one with whom I played: men whom I was
+bound to keep at arm's length. Had I done so I should have lost
+influence. I could not be hail-fellow-well-met, and though talking
+freely with all, I at once checked all disposition to familiarity,
+and people rarely attempted it.
+
+Colonel McCulloch, it is true played, but he began life in Manipur
+as an Assistant Political Agent, and also did not succeed to office
+as I did, when our prestige had dwindled down to nothing.
+
+In September 1879, hearing that Sir Steuart Bayley, Chief Commissioner
+and Acting Lieut.-Governor of Bengal, was about to visit Cachar,
+I went there to see him, performing the double journey including a
+night there, in less than seven days. It was the first time I had
+made the march in the rainy season, and I was greatly struck by the
+extreme beauty of the scenery which was much enhanced by the number
+of waterfalls, that a month later would have been dry. The masses
+of clouds and the clearness of the air when rain was not falling,
+added greatly to the effect, and I enjoyed the journey till I got
+to the low-lying land. There the mud, slush, and great heat were
+unpleasant. It was very satisfactory to be able to discuss the affairs
+of Manipur with the Chief Commissioner, as though I was not then
+directly under him, I was from my position very dependent on him,
+and was anxious to hear his views on many subjects.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+    Punishment of female criminals--A man saved from execution--A Kuki
+    executed--Old customs abolished--Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh--The
+    Manipuri army--Effort to re-organise Manipur levy--System
+    of rewards--"Nothing for nothing"--An English school--Hindoo
+    festivals--Rainbows--View from Kang-joop-kool.
+
+
+Manipur professed to follow the old Hindoo laws, and accordingly no
+woman was ever put to death, or to very severe punishment. When one was
+convicted of any heinous or disgraceful offence she was exposed on a
+high platform in every bazaar in the country, stripped to the waist,
+round which a rope, one end of which was held by her guard, was tied
+and her breasts painted red. A crier at the same time proclaimed her
+crime, and with a loud voice called out from time to time, "Come and
+look at this naughty woman!"
+
+Exposure on a platform was also a punishment inflicted occasionally
+on male offenders. Sometimes it was followed by death. Once I saved a
+man from this part of the sentence, his crime being one for which our
+law would not have exacted so severe a penalty. Fortunately, I heard
+in time, and a message to the Maharajah in courteous, but unmistakable
+terms, brought about a remission of the capital portion. The ministers
+generally consulted me before carrying out sentence of death. Once in
+a case of murder by a Kuki they asked my opinion, so I requested them
+to send the man to me that I might examine him myself. This was done,
+and as he confessed openly to being guilty, I told them they might
+execute him, and as an after-thought said "How shall you put him to
+death?" Bularam Singh replied, "According to the custom of Manipur,
+in the way in which he committed the murder. As he split his victim's
+head open with an axe so will his head be split open." I said "I have
+no objection in this case on the score of humanity, but it is not a
+pretty mode of execution; some day there will be a case accompanied
+by circumstances of cruelty, when I shall be obliged to interfere;
+so take my advice, and on this occasion and all future ones, adopt
+decapitation as the mode of carrying out a death sentence. You can
+do it now with a good grace, and without any apparent interference
+on my part to offend your dignity." Old Bularam Singh said, "Oh no,
+the laws of Manipur are unalterable, we cannot change; we must do
+as we have always done." I said, "Nonsense, my old friend, go with
+Chumder Singh (my native secretary and interpreter) and give my kind
+message to the Maharajah, and say what I advise, as his friend." In
+half-an-hour Chumder Singh returned with an assurance that my advice
+was accepted, and from that time decapitation was the form of capital
+punishment adopted.
+
+I never knew a case of torture being employed, but otherwise the laws
+were carried out with severity. Ghumbeer Singh (reigned 1825-34)
+occasionally tore out an offender's eyes, but such things had been
+forgotten in the days of his son, and though the Government was
+strong, probably there were fewer acts of cruelty than in most native
+states. Once when Ghumbeer Singh had lately introduced tame geese
+into the country; he gave two to a Brahmin to take care of. It was
+reported that a goose was dead. "Tell the Brahmin to eat it," said
+the indignant Rajah. The severity of such an order to a Hindoo will be
+appreciated, by any one knowing what loss of caste entails. Ghumbeer
+Singh's orders were always implicitly obeyed, so I am afraid that
+the sentence was carried into effect.
+
+The army consisted of about 5000 men at the outside, in eight regiments
+of infantry and an artillery corps. The famous cavalry was a thing
+of the past, and many of the infantry were quite unacquainted with
+drill. There were eight three-pounder brass guns, and two seven-pounder
+mountain guns given as a reward for services in the Naga Hills,
+one of which did admirable service in the Burmese war. Most of the
+infantry were armed with smooth-bore muskets, some being of the
+Enfield pattern. Besides the above, there were about 1000 to 12,000
+Kuki Irregulars. A Manipuri military expedition was a strange sight,
+the men besides their arms and ammunition carrying their spare clothes,
+cooking vessels, food, etc., on their backs. All the same, they could
+make long and tiring marches day after day on poor fare and without
+a complaint, and at the end of a hard day would hut themselves and
+fortify their position with great skill, however great the fatigue
+they had undergone. It was a standing rule that in an enemy's country
+a small force should always stockade itself, and a Manipuri army well
+commanded was then able to hold its own against a sudden attack. On
+their return from a successful expedition the troops were greatly
+honoured, and the general in command accorded a kind of triumph, and
+it was an interesting sight to see the long thin line of picturesque
+and often gaily-clad troops, regulars and irregulars winding their
+way through the streets and groves of the capital bearing with them
+spoils and trophies gained in war. Here a party headed by banners,
+there some Kukis beating small gongs and chanting in a monotonous
+tone. Finally, after marching round two sides of the palace, they
+enter by the great gate, pass between the Chinese walls, and again
+between the two lions (so called), and being received by the Maharajah
+at the Gate of Triumph, their General throws himself at his feet and
+receives his chief's benediction, the greatest reward that he can have.
+
+I realised from the first that it would be an immense advantage
+to reconstitute the Manipur Levy, and keep up a permanent force of
+800 men under my direct orders, properly paid, armed, clothed and
+disciplined. I foresaw that a war with Burmah was a mere question of
+time, and wished to have a force ready, so as to enable the British
+Government to act with effect at a moment's notice through Manipur,
+on the outbreak of hostilities. Regular troops eat no more than
+irregular, and are ten times as valuable. My plan was to have 800 men
+enlisted, of whom 200 would have come on duty in rotation, according
+to the Manipur system, all being liable to assemble at a moment's
+notice. Thus a splendid battalion of hardy men could have been formed,
+with which I could have marched to Mandalay. Such a force would have
+been absolutely invaluable when the war broke out in 1885, men able to
+stand the climate, march, fight, row boats, dig, build stockades, in
+fact do all that the best men could be called upon to do. However, to
+my great disappointment, the idea did not commend itself to Government,
+and I never ceased to regret it. I often later on thought of the lives
+and money that might have been saved in 1885-86 had we been better
+prepared, the cost of the proposed levy would have been trifling.
+
+One part of the Manipuri system ever struck me as very admirable,
+and I tried always to encourage it; that was the system of rewarding
+services by honorary distinctions. The permission to wear a peculiar
+kind of turban, coat, or feather, or to assume a certain title was
+more valued than any money reward, and men would exert themselves
+for years for the coveted distinction. It is charming to see such
+simple tastes and to aspire no higher than to do one's duty and earn
+the approval of our fellow-creatures.
+
+One day the two ministers Thangal Major and Bularam Singh came to
+see me, accompanied by old Rooma Singh Major. They looked rather
+uneasy, and I suspected something was coming out. Presently Thangal
+rose and saluted me, and said, "The Maharajah has promoted us to
+be generals." I received the intelligence without any enthusiasm,
+feeling assured that the act had been dictated by a desire to give
+them a more high-sounding title than my military one, I being then
+only a lieut.-colonel. It was in fact a piece of self-assertion. Any
+one understanding Asiatics will know what I mean, and that I knew
+instinctively it was a move in the game against me which I ought to
+check. I coldly replied that of course the Maharajah would please
+himself, but that I loved old things, old names, and old faces, and
+that I had so many pleasant associations with the old titles that I
+could not bring myself to use the new ones, and should continue to
+call them by the dear old name of Major. I then shook hands with them
+most cordially and said good-bye, and they left rather crestfallen,
+where they had hoped and intended to be triumphant. I may as well tell
+the remainder of the story. Time after time was I begged to address
+my three friends as "General," but I was inexorable, and the titles
+almost fell into disuse among the Manipuris who had at first adopted
+them. Old Thangal once had a long talk about it, and I said plainly,
+"I give nothing for nothing: some day when you do something I shall
+address you as General." Years passed. I went on leave, and my locum
+tenens too good-naturedly gave in, and addressed them as General, and
+even induced the Chief Commissioner of the day to do likewise. When
+he wrote to me and told me of it, I was naturally not very pleased,
+and mentioned it to an old Indian friend, who said, "Well, you will
+have to do the same now that the Chief Commissioner has." However,
+I was not going to swerve from my word. I returned to Manipur, and one
+of the ministers met me on the boundary river. I again greeted him as
+"Major Sahib," and immediately the new titles again began to fall into
+disuse. I told the Chief Commissioner my views when I next met him,
+and he approved, as I said I could not alter my word.
+
+Some time after this I again renewed efforts that I had long been
+making for the establishment of an English school in Manipur. The
+Durbar naturally objected; wisely from their point of view, they knew
+as well as I did that the fact of their subjects learning English would
+eventually mean a better administration of justice, and a gradual
+sweeping away of abuses. I felt, however, that the time was come,
+and I urged the question with great force, and one day said to the
+ministers, "You have long wanted to be addressed as 'General,' and I
+told you that when you did something worthy of it I should do so. Now
+the day that the Maharajah gives his consent to an English school being
+established, I shall address you as General." A few days afterwards the
+Maharajah's consent was brought. I immediately stood up and shook hands
+most warmly with them, saying, "I thank you cordially, Generals." From
+that day the question was finally set at rest, after years of longing
+on the part of the old fellows. We had always understood each other,
+and they felt and respected the part I had taken, and, I believe,
+valued their titles all the more from my not having given in at once.
+
+The Rath Jatra Festival, i.e., the drawing of the Car of Juggernaut,
+is greatly honoured in Manipur, and every village has its Rath
+(car). The Dewali, the feast of lights, is also faithfully kept. Also
+the Rathwal, one of the feasts of Krishna, when there are many
+dances, and an enormous bird is cleverly constructed of cloth with a
+bamboo framework, and a man inside, who struts about to the delight
+of the children. The Koli Saturnalia is also duly celebrated; the
+red powder "Abeer," is thrown about amongst those who can get it,
+and the burning of the temporary shrines lights up the sky at night,
+and the holes where the poles stood, are a fertile source of danger to
+ponies and pedestrians for weeks afterwards. The Durga Poojah is kept,
+but is a feast of minor importance. At the Rath Jatra the number of
+people drawn together was enormous, and the white mass could be very
+distinctly seen from Kang-joop-kool with a telescope, when the weather
+was clear. This view was sometimes obscured by clouds, and often when
+staying there did I wake up to see the whole of the valley filled up
+with fog, like a vast sea of cotton-wool, stretching across to the
+Yoma range of hills many miles away.
+
+Lunar rainbows were not uncommon in Manipur, and I often saw them from
+Kang-joop-kool. Often, too, from thence have I seen a complete solar
+rainbow, each end resting on the level surface of the valley. Once,
+in riding to Sengmai on a misty morning, I saw a white rainbow rising
+from the ground; a fine and weird sight it was.
+
+The view over the valley at night from the surrounding hills was
+sometimes wonderful. I never shall forget one night in the rainy
+season, when the moon was shining brightly in the valley, but obscured
+from my view by an intervening cloud; the bright reflection on the
+watery plain sent out a long stream of light which brightened up
+the glistening temples of the Capelat. This, and the dim hills in
+the distance, and the whole amphitheatre enclosed by them lighted
+up faintly, while the dark threatening cloud hanging in air between
+me and the rising moon, that had not yet apparently reached my level
+(I was 2500 feet above the valley, and seemed to be looking down on
+the moon), made a picture never to be forgotten.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+    Mr. Damant--The Naga Hills--Rumours on which I act--News of
+    revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant's surrender--Maharajah's
+    loyalty--March to the relief of Kohima--Relief of Kohima--Incidents
+    of siege--Heroism of ladies--A noble defence.
+
+
+In November, 1878, Mr. Damant removed the headquarters of the Naga
+Hills District from Samagudting to Kohima, and established himself
+there with his party, in two stockades. He had a very ample force for
+maintaining his position, but he had not sufficient to make coercing
+a powerful village an easy task. He was an able man, with much force
+of character, high-minded and upright, and had been greatly respected
+in Manipur, where he acted as Political Agent for some months after
+Dr. Brown's death. He was also a scholar, and was perhaps the only
+man of his generation in Assam capable of taking a comprehensive view
+of the languages of the Eastern Frontier, and searching out their
+origin. His premature death was an irreparable loss to philology.
+
+With all this he had not had sufficient experience with wild tribes to
+be a fit match for the astute Nagas, and was constantly harassed by the
+difficulty in the way of securing supplies, which ought to have been
+arranged for him, in the early days of our occupation of Samagudting,
+by making terms with the Nagas as to providing food carriage. It was
+his misfortune that he inherited an evil system. We had been forced
+into the hills by the lawlessness of the Naga tribes, and we ought to
+have made them bear their full share of the inconveniences attendant
+on our occupation, instead of making our own people suffer.
+
+Mr. Damant at first contemplated getting his supplies from Manipur,
+through the Durbar, but they objected, it being their traditional
+policy to prevent the export of rice for fear of famines, the distance
+and cost of transport making the import, in case of scarcity, an
+impossibility. I declined to put pressure, as I saw the reasonableness
+of the Durbar argument, and I objected to force the hill population
+of Manipur to spend their time in carrying heavy loads, to save the
+turbulent and lazy Angamis. In September, 1879, however, I heard a
+rumour from native sources that Mr. Damant was in great difficulties
+and straits for want of provisions, [22] and I wrote and told him
+that if it were true, I would make every effort to send him some
+supplies, and to help him in every way I could. I did not receive
+any answer to this letter, and subsequently ascertained that it had
+never reached him.
+
+I knew the Angamis well, and was very anxious about Mr. Damant and
+his party, and felt sure that some trouble was at hand.
+
+About this time my wife's health began to give me much anxiety; she
+had one or two severe attacks of illness, and was much reduced in
+strength. Who that has not experienced it can imagine the terrible,
+wearing anxiety of life on a distant frontier, without adequate medical
+aid for those nearest and dearest to us. She was better, though still
+very weak, when an event occurred that shook the whole frontier.
+
+Early in the morning of October 21st, I received a report from Mao
+Tannah, the Manipuri outpost on the borders of the Naga Hills, to the
+effect that a rumour had reached the officer there, that the Mozuma
+Nagas had attacked either Kohima, or a party of our men somewhere else,
+and had killed one hundred men. I have already mentioned my anxiety
+about Mr. Damant's position, and there was an air of authenticity
+about the report which made me feel sure that some catastrophe had
+occurred, and that he was in sore need. I said to Thangal Major,
+"We will take off fifty per cent. for exaggeration, and even then the
+garrison of Kohima will be so weakened that it is sure to be attacked,
+and there will be a rising in the Naga Hills."
+
+I instantly took my resolve and detained my escort of the 34th B.I.,
+which had just been relieved by a party of Frontier Police, and was
+about to march for Cachar. I also applied to the Maharajah for nine
+hundred Manipuris, and sufficient coolies to convey our baggage. He
+at once promised them, and I made arrangements to march as soon as
+the men were ready; but there was some delay, as the men had to be
+collected from distant villages. The next morning, before sunrise,
+Thangal Major came to see me, bringing two letters from Mr. Cawley,
+Assistant Political Agent, Naga Hills, and District Superintendent of
+Police. The letters told me that Mr. Damant had been killed by the
+Konoma men, and that he and the remainder were besieged in Kohima,
+and sorely pressed by Nagas of several villages. Immediately after
+this, the Maharajah himself came and placed his whole resources at
+my disposal, and asked me what I would have. I said two thousand men,
+and he replied that that was the number he himself thought necessary,
+and asked if he should fire the usual five alarm guns, as a signal
+to call every able-bodied man to the capital. I consented, and in
+ten minutes they thundered forth their summons. Coolies to carry the
+loads were the chief difficulty, as they, being hill-men, lived at
+a greater distance. I also despatched a special messenger to Cachar
+to ask for more troops and a doctor; and I made arrangements for
+assisting them on the road. I despatched two hundred Manipuris by a
+difficult and little-frequented path to Paplongmai (Kenoma [23]),
+to make a diversion in the rear of Konoma, as, from all I heard,
+it seemed that the astute Mozuma was not involved. I sent on a man
+I could trust to the Mozuma people, to secure their neutrality. I
+also sent my Naga interpreter, Patakee, to Kohima, to do his best
+to spread dissension amongst its seven different clans and prevent
+their uniting against me. I gave him a pony, and told him to ride it
+till it dropped under him, and then to march on foot for his life,
+and promised him 200 rupees reward if he could deliver a letter to
+Mr. Cawley before the place fell. In the letter I begged Mr. Cawley
+to hold out to the last as I was marching to his assistance.
+
+One day, about a year before, a fine young Naga of Viswema, a powerful
+village of 1000 houses, a few miles beyond the frontier of Manipur and
+right on our track, had come to me and asked me to take him into my
+service. I did so, thinking he might be useful some day, and now that
+the day had arrived, I sent him off to his people to win them over,
+threatening to exterminate them if they opposed my march.
+
+I had fifty men of the Cachar Police and thirty-four of the 34th B.I.,
+including two invalids, one of them a Naik, by name Buldeo Doobey,
+who came out of hospital to go with me, as I wanted every man who could
+shoulder a musket. For the same reason I enlisted a volunteer, Narain
+Singh, a fine fellow, a Jât [24] from beyond Delhi, who had served
+in the 35th B.I., so he took a breach-loader belonging to a sick man
+of the 34th. I shall refer to him again. He carried one hundred and
+twenty rounds of ball cartridge on his person, three times as much
+as the men of the 34th. I sent off my combined escort with all the
+Manipuris who were ready under Thangal Major, and stayed behind to
+collect and despatch supplies and write official letters and send off
+telegrams to Sir Steuart Bayley, and on the 23rd rode out, and caught
+up my men at Mayang Khang, forty miles from Manipur. The rear-guard
+of the 34th had not come up when I went to bed that night at 11 P.M.
+
+I left my poor wife still very weak and I was thankful that she had her
+good sister as a stay and support. Just before leaving, our youngest
+boy Arthur held out his arms to be taken. I paused from my work for
+a moment and took him. It was the last time I saw him. Sad as was my
+parting, I rode off in high spirits; who would not do so when he feels
+that he may be privileged to do his country signal service! Besides,
+I hoped to find all well when I returned.
+
+We left Mayang Khang on October 24th and marched to Mythephum, twenty
+miles along a terribly difficult mountain path, much overgrown by
+jungle. It was all I could do to get the 34th along, as they were
+completely knocked up. I had a pony which I lent for part of the way
+to one of my invalids and so helped him on. I was continually obliged
+to halt myself and wait for the stragglers, cheer them up, and then
+run to the front again. Narain Singh was invaluable and seemed not
+to know fatigue. We reached Mythephum after dark, but the rear-guard
+did not arrive till next morning.
+
+At Mythephum I mustered my forces. The Maharajah had sent the Jubraj
+and Kotwal Koireng with me (little did I think of the fate in store
+for them and for old Thangal [25]) and found that very few Manipuris
+had arrived, and almost all of the force with me were so knocked
+up that, to my intense disappointment, I had to make a halt. I was
+too restless to sit still, so spent the day in reconnoitring the
+country. In the evening I had an interview with Thangal Major and
+afterwards with the Jubraj. Old Thangal was for halting till we
+could collect a large force as he said a large one was required,
+and he begged me to halt for a few days. I finally pointed out that
+a day's halt might cause the annihilation of the garrison of Kohima,
+and said that if the Manipuris were not ready to move, I would go
+along with any of my own men who could march. I appealed to the
+Jubraj to support me which he did, [26] and for which I was ever
+grateful, and we arranged to march next day. I found that the Nagas
+of Manipur were infected with a rebellious spirit, and not entirely
+to be depended on, and any vacillation on our part might have been
+fatal, and would certainly have sealed the fate of Kohima.
+
+We left Mythephum at daybreak on the 26th, and marched as hard as we
+could, as I hoped to cover the forty miles to Kohima by nightfall. We
+stopped to drink water at the Mao river, which we forded, and to
+prevent men wasting time, I drew my revolver and threatened to shoot
+any one who dawdled. We ascended the steep hillside, and passing
+through one of the villages marched on to Khoijami, a village on the
+English side of the border. We had been so long, owing to the extreme
+badness of the roads, and the fatigue of the men, that we only reached
+it at 3 P.M., so I reluctantly halted for the night.
+
+Here my emissary to Viswema joined me, and told me that he had induced
+his fellow-villagers to be friendly, and that presents would be sent. I
+sent him back to demand hostages, and the formal submission of the
+village, as otherwise I would attack them on the morrow and spare no
+one. It was not a time for soft speeches, and I heard rumours that
+we were to be opposed next day.
+
+Late in the afternoon some Mao Nagas brought in seven Nepaulee coolies
+who had escaped from Kohima the previous day, and wandered through the
+jungle expecting every moment to be killed. I gave the Mao men twenty
+rupees as a reward. The Nepaulees said that they had been shut outside
+the gate of the stockade by mistake, and had hidden themselves and
+so got away. They gave a deplorable account of affairs, and said that
+there was no food, and that the ammunition was almost all spent, and
+that two ladies were in the stockade, Mrs. Damant and Mrs. Cawley. They
+stated that Mr. Damant was taken unawares and shot dead, and fifty men
+killed on the spot, and that thirty ran away and hid in the jungles,
+some saving their arms, others not. Each man had fifty rounds of ball
+cartridge. Most of the rifles lost were breech-loaders. The men told
+me that early that morning they had seen smoke rising from Kohima,
+and thought it might have been burned.
+
+All this made me very anxious, as the men said that Mr. Cawley was
+treating for a safe passage to Samagudting. Late in the evening I heard
+that a building inside the stockade had been burned by the Nagas, who
+threw stones wrapped in burning cloth on to the thatched roofs. The
+Nagas in arms were said to number six thousand, and they had erected
+a stockade opposite ours from which they fired. The fugitives were
+in a miserable state of semi-starvation, and ashy pale from terror,
+and seemed more dead than alive when they were brought to me. We slept
+on our arms that night, at least such as could sleep, and rose at 3
+A.M. in case of an attack, that being a favourite time for the Nagas
+to make one.
+
+When ready, I addressed my men, telling them the danger of the
+enterprise, but assuring them of its success, and urging them, in
+case of my being killed or wounded, to leave me and push on to save
+the garrison. I promised the Frontier Police that every man should
+be promoted if we reached Kohima safely that night. This promise the
+Government faithfully kept.
+
+At sunrise I received two little slips of paper brought by two
+Nepaulese coolies who had managed to escape, signed by Mr. Hinde,
+Extra Assistant Commissioner, and hidden by them in their hair. On
+them was written:--
+
+
+Surrounded by Nagas, cut off from water Must be relieved at once. Send
+flying column to bring away garrison at once. Relief must be immediate
+to be of any use
+
+H. M. Hinde. A. P. A. Kohima. 25 x. 79.
+
+
+and--
+
+
+We are in extremity, come on sharp Kohima not abandoned.
+Kohima not abandoned
+
+
+H. M. Hinde. A. P. A. 26 x. 79.
+
+
+After getting these, I could not wait any longer, and, as the Manipuris
+were not all ready, I started off at once with fifty of them under
+an old officer, Eerungba Polla and sixty of my escort, all that were
+able to make a rapid march, and Narain Singh. We carried with us my
+camp Union Jack.
+
+I obtained hostages from Viswema and placed them under a guard with
+orders to shoot them instantly, if we were attacked, and on our arrival
+at the village we were well received. At Rigwema, as we afterwards
+discovered, a force of Nagas was placed in ambush to attack us, but
+the precautions we took prevented their doing so, and we passed on
+unmolested, and soon had the satisfaction of seeing the stockade at
+Kohima still intact. A few miles farther, and on rounding the spur of
+a hill, the stockade appeared in full view and we sounded our bugles
+which were quickly answered by a flourish from Kohima.
+
+We marched on with our standard flying, we reached the valley below,
+we began the ascent of the last slope, and forming into as good order
+as the ground would allow, we at last gained the summit and saw the
+stockade, to save which, we had marched so far and so well, before
+us at a distance of one hundred yards.
+
+The garrison gave a loud cheer, which we answered, and numbers of them
+poured out. Messrs. Cawley and Hinde grasped my hand, and others of the
+garrison formed a line on either side of the gateway, and we marched
+in between them. I recognised many old faces not seen since I had left
+the Naga Hills in 1874, and warmly greeted them; especially Mema Ram,
+a Subadar in the Frontier Police; Kurum Singh, and others. I was told
+afterwards that when Mema Ram first heard that I was marching to their
+relief, he said, "Oh, if Johnstone Sahib is coming we are all right."
+
+I at once told the officers of the garrison that there could be no
+divided authority, and that they must consider themselves subject to my
+orders, to which they agreed. I then saw the poor widowed Mrs. Damant,
+and Mrs. Cawley who had behaved nobly during the siege. While talking
+to the last, one of her two children asked for some water. Her mother
+said in a feeling tone, "Yes, my dear, you can have some now." Seldom
+have I heard words that sounded more eloquent.
+
+The Manipuris now began to pour in, in one long stream, and were
+greeted by the garrison with effusion, and I gave them the site of a
+stockade that had been destroyed by Mr. Cawley, in order to reduce the
+space to be defended as much as possible, and told them to stockade
+themselves, which they did at once. After arranging for the defence
+of our position, I sent off a letter to my wife to say that I was
+safe, and that Kohima had been relieved, and telegrams to the Chief
+Commissioner, and Government of India, to be sent on at once to Cachar,
+the nearest telegraph office, informing them of the good news.
+
+It appeared from what Mr. Cawley told me, that on the 14th of October,
+Mr. Damant had gone to Konoma from Jotsoma, to try and enforce some
+demands he had made. He had been warned several times that the Merema
+Clan of Konoma meant mischief, and several Nagas had implored him
+not to go, and finding him deaf to their entreaties, begged him to go
+through the friendly Semema Clan's quarter of the village. However,
+he insisted on having his own way, and went to the gate of the Merema
+Clan at the top of a steep, narrow path. The gate was closed, and
+while demanding an entrance, he was shot dead. His men were massed
+in rear of him, and a large number were at once shot down, while
+the others took to flight. Some of the fugitives reached Kohima that
+night, and Mr. Cawley at once, grasping the gravity of the situation,
+pulled down one stockade, and dismantled the buildings as already
+related, concentrating all his men in the other, and making it as
+strong as possible. The neighbouring villages had already risen,
+and were sending contingents to attack Kohima.
+
+Mr. Cawley had just time to send a messenger to Mr. Hinde, the
+extra-Assistant Commissioner at Woka, a distance of sixty-three miles,
+ordering him to come in with the detachment of fifty police under
+him. These orders Mr. Hinde most skilfully carried out, by marching
+only at night, and on the 19th he reached Kohima, thus strengthening
+the garrison and making it more able to hold its own, for the number
+of the attacking party now greatly increased.
+
+Most fortunately, owing to the zealous care of Major T. N. Walker,
+44th R. L. Infantry, there were some rations in reserve for the troops,
+which were shared with the non-combatants and police. These he had
+insisted on being collected and stored up, when he paid a visit of
+inspection to Kohima some months before. But for this small stock
+the place could not have held out for two days, but must inevitably
+have fallen, as all supplies were cut off during the progress of
+the siege. The water was poisoned by having a human head thrown into
+it. The Nagas fired at the stockade continually, but made no regular
+assault. They seemed to have tried picking off every man who showed
+himself, and starving out the garrison. The quantity of jungle that
+had been allowed to remain standing all round afforded them admirable
+cover, and, as before stated, they erected another small stockade
+from which to fire. This they constantly brought nearer and nearer
+by moving the timbers.
+
+At length, the garrison wearied out, entered into negotiations,
+and agreed to surrender the stockade, if allowed a free passage to
+Samagudting. This fatal arrangement would have been carried into
+effect within an hour or two, had not my letter arrived assuring them
+of help. What the result would have been no one who knows the Nagas can
+doubt; 545 headless and naked bodies would have been lying outside the
+blockade. Five hundred stands of arms, and 250,000 rounds of ammunition
+would have been in possession of the enemy, enough to keep the hills
+in a blaze for three years, and to give employment to half-a-dozen
+regiments during all that time, and to oblige an expenditure of a
+million sterling, to say nothing of valuable lives. [27]
+
+Throughout the siege, Mrs. Damant, and Mrs. Cawley had displayed much
+heroism. The first undertook to look after the wounded, and went to
+visit them daily, exposed to the enemy's fire. Mrs. Cawley took charge
+of the women and children of the sepoys, and looked after them, keeping
+them in a sheltered spot. The poor little children could not understand
+the situation at all, or why it was that the Nagas were firing.
+
+The casualties would have been more numerous than they were, but that
+the Nagas were careful of the cherished ammunition, and seldom fired,
+unless pretty sure of hitting. All the same, the situation was a very
+critical one, and not to be judged by people sitting quietly at home
+by their firesides. It is certainly a very awful thing, after a great
+disaster and massacre, to be shut up in a weak stockade built of highly
+inflammable material, and surrounded by 6000 howling savages who spare
+no one. In addition to that too, to have the water supply cut off,
+and at most ten days' full provision; for this was what it amounted
+to. It must be also remembered that the non-combatants far out-numbered
+the combatants, and that the two officers who undertook the defence
+were both civilians. Anyhow, the view taken of it by the defenders is
+shown by the fact that they were willing to surrender to the enemy,
+rather than face the situation and its terrible uncertainty any longer,
+as they were quite in doubt as to whether relief was coming or whether
+their letters having miscarried they would be left to perish.
+
+Looking back, after a lapse of fifteen years, and calmly reviewing
+the events connected with the siege of Kohima, I think I was right
+at the time in describing the defence as a "noble one."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+    Returning order and confidence--Arrival of Major Evans--Arrival
+    of Major Williamson--Keeping open communication--Attack on
+    Phesama--Visit to Manipur--General Nation arrives--Join him at
+    Suchema--Prepare to attack Konoma--Assault of Konoma.
+
+
+Early on the morning of the 28th, I took out all the men I could
+collect and set to work to clear away the jungle in the neighbourhood
+of the stockade so as to give no covert to enemies. I also did my
+utmost to collect supplies. Kohima, with its twelve hundred houses,
+was able to give a little, and I sent to distant villages. I also sent
+to the head-man of Konoma to ask for Mr. Damant's body. The man at
+once sent in the head, but said that the body had been destroyed. A
+true statement, I have no doubt, as the head is all the Nagas value,
+and the body would have been given up instantly had it existed. His
+signet ring, and several other little articles were also sent. The
+head was buried with due honours, the Manipuri chiefs drawing up
+their men and saluting as the funeral procession passed. The Jubraj,
+Soor Chandra Singh, spoke very feelingly on the subject.
+
+The watercourse, which formerly supplied the garrison, had been
+diverted, and the only other supply had been, as already stated,
+poisoned by a head being thrown into it. My first business was to see
+that the water communication was restored, to every one's comfort. Some
+of my old acquaintances among the Nagas began to come in, and there
+was a great disposition to be friendly.
+
+The next day a sepoy of the 43rd, who had escaped the massacre and
+lived in the jungle, was brought in by some friendly Nagas. He was
+almost out of his mind, and nearly speechless from terror, and could
+not walk, so was carried on the man's back.
+
+I made up my mind to attack Konoma as soon as I could, and the people
+knowing this, tried negotiations with my Manipuri allies. So great
+was the fear we inspired that at first I believe I could without
+difficulty have imposed more severe terms than were obtained later
+on after four months' fighting. With Asiatics especially, everything
+depends on the vigour with which an enterprise is pushed forward. The
+Nagas never expecting an attack from the side of Manipur, were at
+first paralysed. All the villages were without any but the most
+rudimentary defences, in addition to those which nature had given
+them from their position; not one of them could have stood against
+a well-directed attack.
+
+I was in the midst of my preparations when, on the 30th October, Major
+(now Major-General) Evans, of the 43rd Assam Light Infantry, arrived
+with two hundred men, who had come with him from Dibroogurh. I also
+received a telegram saying that General Nation was coming up with
+one thousand men and two mountain-guns, and might be expected on the
+9th November. I was also given strict orders to engage in no active
+operations till his arrival. These orders I at first disregarded,
+feeling the urgent necessity of instant action before the Nagas had
+time to recover from their surprise. However, next day the order was
+reiterated so strongly, and in the Chief Commissioner's name, that,
+believing that the Government had some special reason for the order,
+I accepted it, much to my disappointment, as I felt the urgent
+necessity of an immediate advance. Konoma was still unfortified,
+and a few days would have sufficed to capture it, and place the Naga
+Hills at our feet. As it was, the delay, not till November 9th, but
+November 22nd, owing to defective transport arrangements, gave the
+enemy time to recover, and when we tardily appeared before Konoma, we
+found a scientifically defended fortress, whose capture cost us many
+valuable lives. The order, it subsequently appeared, was not issued by
+Sir Steuart Bayley, [28] and was altogether due to a misapprehension.
+
+As there was to be no immediate work, I urged Major Evans to take
+up his post at Samagudting, where a magazine containing 200,000
+rounds of ammunition was very inefficiently guarded; he, however,
+left a subaltern, Lieut. (now Captain) Barrett with me, as I wanted
+another officer. On their way, some men of the 43rd had shot two
+Nagas, one a relation of the chief of the Hepromah clan of Kohima,
+a most unfortunate proceeding, and quite uncalled for, as the men were
+quietly working in their fields. I was already sufficiently embarrassed
+by the promises made by the garrison to the so-called friendly clans
+of Kohima, to induce them to be neutral during the siege, and which
+I felt bound to keep, and this additional complication added to my
+troubles. People situated as the garrison were should make no promises
+except in return for real help.
+
+All this time troops and supplies came pouring in from Manipur in
+one long thin stream, and the greatest efforts were made to collect
+supplies on the spot. I also forced the unfriendly Chitonoma clan of
+Kohima to surrender six rifles they had captured, and to pay a fine of
+200 maunds of rice. We had been expecting a force of Kuki irregulars
+from Manipur; these now arrived, and I had a talk with the chief,
+who said: "Our great desire is to attack that village," pointing to
+Kohima, "and to kill every man, woman, and child in it!" He looked
+as if he meant it.
+
+One day a cat was caught that had given great trouble stealing
+provisions, etc., we all wanted to get rid of it, but Hindoos do
+not like having cats killed, and I respected their prejudices when
+possible, and there were many Hindoos about us, so I said, "I won't
+have it killed, unless some one wants to eat it." A Kuki soon came and
+asked to be allowed to make a dinner of it, and then I gave my consent,
+and our scourge was removed. I once asked a sepoy of my old regiment
+why they objected to killing cats. He said, "People do say that if
+you kill a cat now you will have to give a golden cat in exchange in
+the next world as a punishment, and where are we to get one?"
+
+To keep open communications, I established Manipuri posts in strong
+stockades at all the principal villages on the road to the frontier,
+and had daily posts from Manipur. To my great distress, I heard that
+my youngest boy, Arthur, was ill, and my wife in much anxiety about
+him; but I could not leave to help her.
+
+Our forced inaction had, as I anticipated, been misinterpreted by the
+Nagas. Some decisive action was much needed, and I attacked the hostile
+Chitonoma clan of Kohima, and destroyed part of their village. On the
+10th, as a party of men were bringing in provisions from Manipur,
+they had been attacked by some of the Chitonoma clan in the valley
+below our position. I heard the firing, and ran out of the stockade
+with a party to drive off the enemy.
+
+At the gate, a man who had just arrived, put a letter in my hand. I
+read it anxiously, it told me that my child was dead. My wife and I
+had chosen a spot at Kang-joop-kool where we wished to be buried in
+case either of us died, and there she buried him.
+
+We soon cleared out the Chitonoma men, and I found that with the
+troops escorting the provisions was Dr. Campbell from Cachar, whose
+arrival was very welcome. I remember in connection with him a striking
+incident showing the courage of Manipuris in suffering. A man who
+had been wounded in an encounter had to have an operation performed
+on his arm. Dr. Campbell wanted to give him chloroform as it would be
+very painful. But the man refused, saying, "I will not take anything
+that intoxicates," and at once held out his arm and submitted to the
+knife without flinching!
+
+Every day the delay in the commencement of active operations made the
+Nagas more and more confident, and some vigorous action on our part
+was absolutely necessary. I heard from spies that our Manipuri post at
+Phesama was about to be attacked by the people of the village, who held
+nightly converse with emissaries from Konoma. I therefore determined to
+punish Phesama, which was not far from Kohima, and on November 11th,
+I sent a party of Manipuris and Kukis who destroyed the village in a
+night attack, and killed a large number of people. They brought in
+twenty-one women and children as prisoners whom the Manipuris had
+saved from the Kukis, who would have spared neither age nor sex had
+they gone alone.
+
+The next day my old friend Captain Williamson arrived to act as my
+assistant, I having been appointed Chief Political Officer with the
+Field Force that was being formed. Having now a competent man to leave
+in charge, I determined to go to Manipur for a few days, and marched
+to Mythephum on the 13th, and rode thence on the 14th to Manipur,
+accomplishing the whole distance of over 100 miles in thirty-one
+and a half hours. I stayed one day in Manipur and then returned,
+reaching Kohima on the 17th.
+
+On November 20th, General Nation having arrived at Suchema, ten
+miles from Kohima, Williamson and I left to join him. We were fired
+at on the road, but got in safely and found all well and in good
+spirits. The troops consisted of 43rd and 44th Assam Light Infantry and
+two seven-pound mountain-guns under Lieut. Mansel, R.A. Lieut. (now
+Major) Raban, R.E., was engineer-officer and Deputy Surgeon-General
+(now Surgeon-General, C.B.) De Renzy was in charge of the Medical
+Department. Major Cock, a well-known soldier and sportsman, was
+Brigade Major.
+
+On the 21st, the guns arrived on elephants, and feeling sure that
+no proper carriage could have been provided for their transport, I
+had taken the precaution to bring one hundred Kuki coolies to carry
+them. The assault was to be next day. Mozuma remained neutral, and
+even gave us a few coolies and guides. [29]
+
+How well I remember the night of the 21st. Williamson and I dined
+with the General and all the staff, and poor Cock, great on all
+sporting subjects, told us in the most animated way, stories of whaling
+adventures when he was on leave at the Cape. He warmed to his subject
+and greatly interested us; he was a fine gaunt man of over six feet
+in height, and great strength and ready for any enterprise; some of
+the Mozuma Nagas knew him and liked him as they had, years before,
+been on shooting expeditions with him in the Nowgong jungles. Besides
+this we had a surgical address from Dr. De Renzy, who told us what to
+do if any of us were wounded. How we all laughed over it, he joining
+us. I knew we should have some hard fighting, but we all counted
+on carrying everything before us with a rush, and who is there who
+expects to be wounded? We are ready for it if it comes, but we all
+think that we are to be the exception. It is as well that it is so.
+
+We were under arms at 4.30 A.M. on the 22nd. The first party consisting
+of two companies of the 43rd Assam Light Infantry and twenty-eight
+Naga Hills Police, under Major Evans and Lieut. Barrett, conducted by
+Captain Williamson, who knew the country, were directed to proceed to
+the rear of Konoma and occupy the saddle connecting the spur on which
+it is built with the main road, so as to cut off the line of retreat.
+
+At 7.30 A.M., the remaining portion of the force marched off. We
+all went together to the Mozuma Hill, where Lieut. Raban, R.E.,
+was detached with part of a rocket battery, to take up a position on
+the hillside and open fire on Konoma, simultaneously with the guns. A
+small force was left in Suchema, to which, on my own responsibility, I
+added one hundred and ten Kuki irregulars, as I thought it dangerously
+small for a place containing all our stores and reserve ammunition. At
+the General's request, I had posted a force of two hundred men in a
+valley to intercept fugitives, and cut them off from Jotsuma.
+
+After leaving Lieut. Raban, we crossed the valley dividing Mozuma
+and Konoma, and when half-way between the hills, Lieut. Ridgeway (now
+Colonel Ridgeway, V.C.) was sent with a company of the 44th to skirmish
+up to the Konoma hill. The main body with the guns then gradually
+ascended to the Government Road. Just before reaching it, we found
+a headless Aryan corpse in a stream, it was probably that of a sepoy
+of the 43rd, who formed part of Mr. Damant's ill-fated expedition.
+
+After going for a short distance along the road, we found a
+place up which the guns could go, and a party of fifty men under
+Lieut. Henderson, 44th Assam Light Infantry, was sent ahead to skirmish
+up the hillside, the guns carried by my coolies following with the
+General and his Staff, including myself. As we ascended the hill,
+Colonel Nuttall, with the remainder of the 44th, exclusive of the
+gun escort, proceeded along the road, crossing the small valley
+that divides the Konoma hill from the ridge of the Basoma hill
+which we were ascending, a few hundred yards from where it joins
+the main valley, and halted at the foot. After incredible labour,
+we succeeded in getting the guns into position at about 1200 yards
+distance from the highest point of Konoma, and at once opened fire,
+while Lieut. Raban did the same with his rockets which, however, for
+the most part fell short over the heads of Lieut. Ridgeway's party,
+though once two struck the village. On being signalled, Lieut. Raban
+withdrew his rockets and joined us. Meanwhile, the guns had made little
+impression on the people, and none on the stone forts of Konoma, but
+the 44th were advancing gallantly to the attack up the steep ascent
+to the village, a brisk fire being kept up on both sides.
+
+At about 2.30, the position of the guns was changed, and they were
+advanced to within eight hundred yards of the works, here one of my
+gun coolies was wounded by a shot from the village. The change of
+position had little effect, and Lieutenant Henderson's party which
+had skirmished along the hillside, effectually prevented the enemy
+from evacuating his strong position.
+
+At this time we saw a body of men on the ridge above Konoma, and a
+gun and rocket fire was opened on them, but speedily stopped as the
+regimental call of the 43rd sounding in the distance, followed by a
+close observation with our glasses, led us to the conclusion that it
+was the party with Captain Williamson and not the enemy who occupied
+the point at which we had directed our fire. Subsequently it was
+discovered that the stockade there had been captured and occupied
+by the party of the 43rd. After firing a few shots from our new
+position, and imagining that the force under Colonel Nuttall was in
+full possession of the hill we unlimbered, and, crossing the small
+valley before mentioned, we followed Mr. Damant's path up the hill,
+entering the village by the gate where he met his death. As we neared
+the place where we had last seen Colonel Nuttall's party, ominous
+sights met our eyes, dead bodies here and there and men badly wounded,
+while sepoys left in charge of the latter told us that the Nagas were
+still holding out in the upper forts. After advancing a few paces
+further we had to pick our way over ground studded with pangees, [30]
+and covered with thorns and bamboo and cane entanglements, exposed
+to the fire of the enemy, and passing the bodies of several Nagas
+we ascended a kind of staircase, and after again passing under the
+Naga fire climbed up a perpendicular stone wall and found ourselves
+in a small tower, which, with the adjoining work, was held by a small
+party of the 44th. I asked Colonel Nuttall where all his men were, and
+he pointed to the handful around him and said, "These are all." The
+situation was indeed a desperate one, and I felt that without some
+immediate action our power in the Naga Hills for the moment trembled
+in the balance. The needed action was taken as the guns had now arrived
+under a heavy fire, and they opened on the upper forts at a distance of
+eighty to one hundred yards, Lieutenant Mansel and his three European
+bombardiers pointing them, fully exposed to the fire of the enemy. I
+strongly urged on the General the necessity of making an attempt to
+dislodge him before nightfall, and he was about to lead out a party
+to the attack when it was deemed more prudent to try the guns from
+another point first. After a series of rounds with such heavy charges
+that the guns were upset at every shot, the order for the assault was
+given, and we all rushed out in two parties, led by nine officers,
+viz., General Nation, Colonel Nuttall, Major Cock, Major Walker,
+Lieutenant Ridgeway, Lieutenant Raban, Lieutenant Boileau, Lieutenant
+Forbes, and myself, with all the men we could collect. The party I was
+with, which included the general, Colonel Nuttall, and Major Cock,
+attempted to scale the front face of the fort, the other the left,
+i.e., on our right. The right column of attack led by Ridgeway and
+Forbes advanced splendidly; I seem to hear to this day Ridgeway's
+shout of "Chulleao," i.e., "Come along," to his men as he dashed to
+the front, and I saw him mounting the parapet.
+
+The Nagas met us with a heavy fire and showers of spears and
+stones. One of the spears struck Forbes, and Ridgeway was badly wounded
+in the left shoulder by a shot fired at ten paces, and Nir Beer Sai,
+a gallant subadar, shot dead. My faithful orderly, Narain Singh, was
+also killed. Unfortunately we had no force to support the assaulting
+parties and the men began to retire. While this was doing on the
+right, our column, the left, was scaling an almost perpendicular wall
+in front but unsuccessfully, as those of us not killed were pushed
+back by showers of falling stones and earth, and as we alighted at
+a lower level the remnants of the right column who were retiring
+met us. I tried to rally them, but I was a stranger to them and it
+was no use. Lieutenant Raban was equally unsuccessful, the men had
+acted gallantly, but our party was too small, and as I had before
+predicted the fire was concentrated on the European officers. Major
+Cock walked back leisurely to get under cover, and just before he
+reached it turned round to take a parting shot. I saw him thus far,
+and immediately after heard that he had been shot. Seeing that our
+only chance of safety lay in a retreat, I shouted to Mansel to open
+an artillery fire over our heads which he did, this saved us. In
+another minute, the general, Colonel Nuttall, myself and five sepoys
+were the only men left. I suggested to the former that we had better
+go too and retire, which we did over the embers of a burning house.
+
+As I retired with the General we found Major Cock mortally wounded,
+laid under cover in a sheltered spot; a little farther on under a heavy
+fire we met Lieutenant Boileau bringing out a stretcher for him. As
+Cock was being carried in, a bearer was shot dead, and Dr. Campbell
+took his place and brought him into hospital.
+
+It was a strange situation, as in our retreat we were alternately
+exposed to a fire, and quite sheltered. Luckily the place selected
+for a hospital was safe, and there a sad sight met my eyes. In the
+short period that elapsed between the commencement of the assault
+and my return, the hospital had been filled. Young Forbes was on his
+back, pale as a sheet, but cheerful. Ridgeway flushed with the glow
+of battle on him. "Certamis gaudia," I said, "I hope you are not
+much hurt." "Only my shoulder smashed," he said. Colonel Nuttall
+was slightly wounded, making four out of nine Europeans. Besides
+these were men of the 44th of all ranks, some almost insensible,
+others in great pain, some composed, others despondent. Outside lay a
+heap of dead. Twenty-five per cent. of the native ranks had fallen,
+killed or wounded. Some of my gun coolies were among the latter,
+besides one or two killed.
+
+I remember a wounded Kuki who was supporting himself by leaning
+against a great vat of Naga beer prepared to refresh the defenders of
+the fortress, and by him lay a dead Naga. The Kuki had a dao (sword)
+in his hand, and every now and then he fortified himself with a deep
+draught of the grateful fluid, and thus strengthened made a savage
+cut at the body of his foe.
+
+We had captured all but the highest forts, and a renewed attack with
+our small numbers was out of the question, as night was closing in,
+and we were very anxious as to the safety of our detached parties
+under Evans, Macgregor, and Henderson. [31]
+
+It was determined to remain where we were for the night, and Lieutenant
+Raban represented to the General the necessity of fortifying our
+position. This duty he and Mansel and I undertook, I bringing my Kuki
+coolies to the work, which we accomplished by 7 P.M.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+    Konoma evacuated--Journey to Suchema for provisions and ammunition,
+    and return--We march to Suchema with General--Visit Manipur--Very
+    ill--Meet Sir Steuart Bayley in Cachar--His visit to Manipur--Grand
+    reception--Star of India--Chussad attack on Chingsow--March to
+    Kohima and back--Reflections on Maharajah's services--Naga Hills
+    campaign overshadowed by Afghan War.
+
+
+General Nation had intended to capture Konoma and return to Suchema
+at once, but the stout resistance offered by the Nagas upset all
+calculations, and we were thus stranded without warm clothing or
+provisions on a bleak spot, 5000 or 6000 feet above the sea. I sent
+off some of my Naga emissaries, and induced the neutral men of Mozuma
+to go to Suchema and bring the bedding of the wounded men and some food
+which was done. With difficulty we got enough water to drink, but there
+was none for washing, and when at last we sat down on the ground to
+eat our frugal meal, the doctors had to eat with hands covered with
+blood, indeed, none of our hands were very presentable. At last, to
+our great relief, our detached parties returned one by one. Lieutenant
+(now Colonel) C. R. Macgregor, D.S.O., a most gallant and capable
+officer, had been out all day with only fifteen men, and inflicted
+some injury on the Nagas. He was Quartermaster-General of the force,
+and did good service throughout. The accession of numbers was a great
+relief, as we now had the means of renewing the attack next day, but
+ammunition and supplies were required, and Williamson and I volunteered
+to go to Suchema for them next day. The night was very cold, but we
+managed to sleep all huddled up together, the dead lying all round us.
+
+Early next morning, Williamson and I started with all our coolies and
+an escort of fifty men. We saw no signs of the enemy, but came across
+several men of the 43rd who had strayed away from their detachments
+in the dark and hidden in the jungles. At Suchema we found all right,
+but before we got there, we saw our flag flying over Konoma, showing,
+as I had expected, that it had been evacuated during the night. This
+event immediately made our neutral friends of Mozuma, our allies, and
+they gave us hearty assistance, and we took back an ample supply of
+provisions. The Mozuma people told us that the Konoma men had never
+contemplated the possibility of being driven out, and that they had
+stored up 2000 maunds of rice which had fallen into our hands.
+
+The enemy had retired into some fortified stockades called Chukka on
+the main range to their rear, a most difficult position to attack. I
+offered the General to carry the guns into position for him if he
+cared to assault them, but our loss, especially in officers, had been
+so great that he declined, and probably he was right, as the risk
+was very great if the enemy stood his ground, so the General decided
+to await reinforcements. All the same it was to be regretted that we
+were unable to deliver two or three blows in rapid succession.
+
+We left a party at Konoma and marched to Suchema with the wounded,
+Ridgeway, with great courage, marching all the way on foot, rather
+than endure the shaking of an improvised litter. On the 27th, I
+joined a force, with which we attacked and destroyed the unfriendly
+portion of Jotsuma, a large and powerful village, and on the 29th,
+as there was nothing else to do, made a rapid journey to Manipur with
+Lieutenant Raban, that he might survey the road as I wanted the trace
+for a cart road cut. We returned on December 4th.
+
+On December 6th, Williamson and I started for Golaghat, to meet
+Sir Steuart Bayley. At Samagudting I had a perfect ovation, all
+the village turning out to see me, and greeting me warmly as an old
+acquaintance. Alas! many were suffering from a disease we called Naga
+sores, and several had died. The once lovely place looked desolate and
+miserable, almost all the fine trees had been ruthlessly cut down by
+one of my successors, in a panic, lest they should afford cover for
+hostile Nagas. The place looked so sad that I could not bear to stay
+there as I had intended, and left again almost directly. We reached
+Golaghat on December 9th, and stayed with the Chief Commissioner and
+started again on the 12th, and rode fifty-five miles into Dimapur, but
+I was not at all well, indeed had been much the reverse for several
+days, bad food and hard work having upset me. We reached Suchema on
+the 14th.
+
+Overtures for submission were made by some of the hostile villages,
+but I said that an unconditional surrender of all fire-arms must
+precede any negotiations. Meanwhile, I grew daily worse, and the
+doctors told me that I must go to Manipur for change and quiet,
+which, as there was nothing to be done just then, I did, leaving
+Captain Williamson in charge of the Political Department.
+
+I reached Manipur on December 22nd, and a day or two's rest did me so
+much good that I left again on the 27th, and rode to Mythephum, sixty
+miles, but was taken ill on the road, and suffered most dreadful pain
+for the last twenty miles, arriving completely prostrated. The next
+day, being worse, I sent a message to Manipur, asking for the native
+doctor and a litter to be sent to meet me, while I got back as far as
+Mayang Khang on my pony, though hardly able to sit upright. I halted
+here for the night, but had no sleep, and in the morning started in a
+rough litter, but the shaking increased the pain, so that I again tried
+riding till I reached Kong-nang-pokhee, twenty miles from Manipur,
+where, to my intense relief, I found my doolai and our native doctor,
+Lachman Parshad. I reached Manipur at 11 P.M.
+
+Next day, December 30th, I was no better, and as the doctor was very
+anxious, not understanding my case, which was acute inflammation,
+my wife wrote to Dr. O'Brien of the 44th, asking him to come and
+see me. I was laid up till January 17th, and only narrowly escaped
+with life, my suffering being aggravated by a deficiency of medicine
+in our hospital, and a week's delay in getting it from Cachar. One
+day I got out of bed to see Thangal Major on very important business
+connected with Konoma, of which some of the inhabitants had tried to
+open an intrigue with Manipur. Dr. O'Brien arrived about the 13th,
+and left on the 18th, and I was preparing to follow in a few days,
+when complications on the Lushai frontier detained me, and then as the
+Chief Commissioner was about to come up en route to the Naga Hills,
+to present the Maharajah with the order of the Star of India in
+recognition of his services, I waited till I could march up with him.
+
+On January 30th, I heard that the Baladhun tea factory in Cachar
+had been attacked, and a European and several coolies killed by
+the Merema clan of Konoma. Knowing that Cachar was badly off for
+troops, I asked the Durbar to send two hundred men to the frontier,
+close to the tea factory, to aid the Cachar authorities, and this
+was done. On February 6th, I started for Cachar to meet the Chief
+Commissioner, reaching that place on the 7th, and marched back with
+him, arriving at Manipur on February 20th, where he was received with
+every demonstration of respect, the Maharajah turning out with all
+his court to meet him at the usual place, and escorting him to the
+spot where the road turned off to the Residency.
+
+The Chief Commissioner's visit gave the greatest satisfaction to
+every one in Manipur. He stayed five days, during which he had several
+interviews with the Maharajah, and held a grand Durbar, at which he
+invested him with the star and badge of a K.C.S.I. He also attended a
+review held by the Rajah, besides seeing all the sights of the place,
+including a game of polo by picked players. In fact the visit was a
+thorough success, and the Manipuris often spoke of it with pleasure
+years afterwards.
+
+Just before we started for the Naga Hills, I received the news of an
+attack by the Chussad Kukis on the Tankhool village of Chingsow, to
+the north-east of Manipur, forty-five people were said to have been
+killed or carried off; and the excitement was all the greater from
+the belief entertained that the attack had been instigated by the
+Burmese. I determined, after consultation with Sir Steuart Bayley,
+to proceed to the spot myself, and investigate the whole affair;
+and it was, therefore, decided that, after escorting him to Kohima,
+I should return to Manipur and take up the case. We marched to Kohima,
+which we reached on March 1st, and on the 2nd, I returned to Mao,
+en route to Manipur, where I arrived on March 5th.
+
+Before leaving the subject of the Naga Hills, I ought to say, that,
+it is difficult to over-estimate our obligation to the Maharajah,
+for his loyal conduct during the insurrection and subsequent
+troubles. According to his own belief, we had deprived him of
+territory belonging to him, and which he had been allowed to claim as
+his own. The Nagas asked him to help them, and promised to become his
+feudatories, if only he would not act against them. The temptation must
+have been strong, to at least serve us as we deserved, by leaving us
+in the lurch to get out of the mess, as best as we could. Instead of
+this, Chandra Kirtee Singh loyally and cheerfully placed his resources
+at our disposal, and certainly by enabling me to march to its relief,
+prevented the fall of Kohima, and the disastrous results which would
+have inevitably followed. It is grievous to think that his son, the
+then Jubraj Soor Chandra Singh, who served us so well, was allowed to
+die in exile, and that Thangal Major died on the scaffold: while many
+others who accompanied the expedition, were transported as criminals,
+across the dreaded "black water" to the Andamans.
+
+It was the misfortune of those engaged in the Naga Hills expedition,
+that they were overshadowed, and their gallant deeds almost ignored, by
+the Afghan war then in progress. Some of the English papers imagined
+that the operations in the Naga Hills were included in it, and the
+Government of India, which has only eyes for the North-West Frontier,
+showed little desire to recognise the hard work, and good service
+rendered on its eastern border, amidst difficulties far greater than
+those which beset our troops in Afghanistan. The force engaged, hoped
+that the capture of Konoma, which was achieved after such hard fighting
+and at so great a loss, would have been at least recognised by some
+special decoration, but this hope was disappointed, apparently for
+no other reason, than that the troops engaged, fought in the east,
+and not in the west of India. Kaye, the historian, once said that,
+"the countries to the east of the Bay of Bengal, were the grave
+of fame." Well did the Naga Hills campaign, prove the truth of his
+words. A bronze star was the reward of a bloodless march from Kabul
+to Kandahar, but not even a clasp could be spared to commemorate
+the capture of Konoma, and those who never saw a shot fired, shared
+the medal awarded equally with those who fought and bled in that
+bloody fight.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+    Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad outrage--Interesting
+    country--Rhododendrons--Splendid forest--Chingsow and the
+    murder--Chattik--March back across the hills.
+
+
+I had not fully recovered my strength after my illness, and besides
+there was much to do, so I did not start for Chingsow till the 11th,
+when I marched to Lairen, twenty-five miles distant. Near a place
+called Susa Kameng, where the hills approach each other very closely,
+from either side of the valley, a rampart connects them. It was built
+in former days as a barrier against the Tankhools, when they were
+the scourge of the neighbourhood.
+
+After leaving Susa Kameng, the valley narrowed for some miles, and
+then we crossed a ridge about 1000 feet above it, and finally descended
+into a charming little upland valley, which, but for the Kukis, those
+terrible enemies of trees and animal life, would be the cherished home
+of wild elephants. After crossing this, we again made a slight descent,
+and found ourselves close to the camp on a lovely stream. There I
+found Bularam Singh, who was to be minister in attendance on me during
+my march, that part of the country being under his jurisdiction. The
+next day we went on to Noong-suong-kong over a most lovely country,
+often 5000 feet above the sea, and with hill villages in the most
+romantic situation; and--remarkable sign of the peace produced by
+the rule of Manipur--we met large numbers of unarmed wayfarers. This
+day we also saw terrace cultivation, in which the Tankhools excel,
+and rhododendrons in full flower, a splendid sight. The next day,
+after another most interesting march, we halted in a pretty upland
+valley, 5100 feet above the sea; the valley was long, and a stream
+meandered through it, the banks being clothed with willows and wild
+pear trees, covered with blossoms. The hillsides were well-wooded,
+the trees being chiefly pines with rhododendrons here and there.
+
+On March 14th, we descended the Kongou-Chow-Ching, and in a village I
+saw for the first time shingle roofs. We passed the last fir tree at
+5800 feet, and reached the watershed at 7300 feet. At the top of the
+pass in a slightly sheltered position, was a solitary rhododendron. The
+cold was so great that, though walking, I was glad to put on a thick
+great-coat; the winds were exceedingly piercing. Some of the hills
+round were denuded of trees, and the hill people said that it was
+the severity of the winds that prevented their growth. The view from
+the highest point was splendid, on all sides a magnificent array of
+hills and valleys. Near to us were some of the most luxuriant forests I
+have ever seen, the trees of large size, and many of them with gnarled
+trunks, recalling the giants of an English park. Under some of these
+trees was a greensward where it would have been delightful to encamp,
+had time allowed, but the difficulty of obtaining water limits one's
+halting place in the hills. Everywhere on the western face of the hills
+pines seemed to stop at 5800 feet; but on the east they rose to 9400!
+
+Four villages, in the Tankhool country, apparently monopolised the bulk
+of the cloth manufactures, and different tribal patterns were made to
+suit the purchaser. Some of these cloths are very handsome and strong,
+and calculated to wear for a long time. But the superior energy of the
+Manipuris in cloth weaving, has greatly injured the trade in the hill
+villages; in the same way that Manchester and Paisley have injured the
+weaving trade in most of India. The Manipuris supply a fair pattern
+of the different tribal cloths at a lower price, and thus manage to
+undersell those of native manufacture, but the quality is not nearly
+so good as in the original. The prices in the hills are decidedly
+high. Every village has its blacksmith, but some devote themselves
+more especially to ironwork.
+
+We reached Chingsow on March 15th, after a march of twelve miles
+that morning, chiefly made up of ascents and descents, some being so
+steep that it was with difficulty that we got along. Finally, after
+a direct ascent of 4980 feet, followed by a descent of 3600 feet,
+we reached our encamping ground below the village which towered
+above us. The next day I investigated the case, and found that, as
+reported, twenty males and twenty-five females had been murdered. I
+saw the fresh graves and dug up one as evidence, the bodies contained
+in it were those of a mother and child, and presented a frightful
+spectacle with half of the heads cut off, including the scalp, and
+both in an advanced state of decomposition. It appeared that a demand
+has been made by Tonghoo, the Chussad Chief, that the Chingsow Nagas
+should submit to him and pay tribute, but they, of course, refused
+as subjects of Manipur. They heard of nothing more till they were
+attacked on the morning of the fatal day. The people had just begun
+to stir, and some had lighted their fires, when suddenly they heard
+the fire of musketry at the entrance of the village. They ran out
+of their houses, and the Chussads fell upon them, and the massacre
+commenced. The assailants were about fifty in number, and the people
+in their terror were driven in all directions, and slaughtered,
+some being shot and others being cut down by daos.
+
+While this was going on, some of the men assembled with spears and
+advanced on the Chussads, who then retreated firing the village,
+and carrying off all the pigs, spears and iron hoes they could lay
+hands on. Five Nagas of Chattik came with the Chussads and were
+recognised. The village of Chingsow was most strongly situated, even
+more so than Konoma, indeed, the same might be said of many villages
+in that part of the country, and is entered by long winding paths
+cut through the rock, by which only one man at a time could pass,
+so that well defended it would be difficult to take. But the fact
+was that Manipur having put a stop to blood feuds among its subjects,
+had rather placed them at a disadvantage, as they were not quite as
+well prepared for an attack as formerly.
+
+After leaving Chingsow, we marched through a pretty country, part of
+our way lying along a high ridge with a precipice on one side, and a
+deep ravine on the other, and we finally halted in a stream far below
+our last camp. Every march was a succession of steep ascents and then
+equally steep descents into narrow valleys. It was most exasperating
+sometimes to see how needlessly an ascent was made over a high ridge,
+when a path of no greater length could have been made round it.
+
+On the 17th, I encamped beside a river where I was visited by many
+Tankhools, including children, who crowded round me fearlessly. The
+people were a fine race, but almost inconceivably dirty, some of them
+seemed grimed with the dirt of years. There were plenty of fine pieces
+of terrace cultivation. It was very curious to find that among the
+Tankhools there seemed to be a universal belief that they originally
+sprung from the "Mahawullee," or sacred grove in Manipur.
+
+On March 18th, we reached Chattik, a fine village on a ridge from
+which we had a splendid view, including the Chussad villages. As
+I had done all I had come for, and wished to see a new country,
+I determined to march back straight to Manipur across the hills. It
+was not the beaten track which lay by Kongal Tannah, and no one in
+my camp knew it, but I felt sure it could be found, and old Bularam
+Singh cheerfully agreed. We started on the 19th, and after passing
+a village that had been plundered by the Chussads, we halted after a
+sixteen-mile march, during which I was badly hurt by a bamboo which
+pierced my leg. On the march we passed some terrible-looking pits,
+12 feet deep, and about 3 or 3-1/2 feet wide with sharp stakes at the
+bottom. They are meant to catch enemies on the war path, or deer,
+and are placed in the centre of the roads and covered lightly. God
+help the poor man or animal who is impaled in these horrible pits
+and dies in agony, for no one else will.
+
+On the 20th, we halted at Pong, after an interesting but tiring march,
+during which we crossed the summit of a high range at 7100 feet,
+covered with forest, and small and very solid bamboos. The descent
+was through a noble pine forest with trees that must have been two
+hundred feet high. It rained heavily, and when we halted I should
+have had a miserable night of it but for the care of the Manipuris,
+who built me a comfortable hut, and went away smiling and cheerful
+to cook their food, though they looked half drowned. Never did I see
+men work better under difficulties. Owing to them I had as nice a
+resting-place as a man on the march could want, and an hour after I
+had an excellent dinner.
+
+We started early next morning, and made a gradual ascent till we
+reached Hoondoong, a Tankhool village 5200 feet above the sea. After
+that our road lay through a splendid fir forest, with here and there
+an avenue of oaks, but from time to time we came across large tracts
+of forest that had been laid low and burned. At Hoondoong I saw some
+curious graves, high mounds shaped like a large H.
+
+They were outside the village. There were also more and better-looking
+women and children than are to be seen in most Tankhool villages. The
+men of the Tankhool race are, in physique, quite equal to the Angamis.
+
+In the main street of Hoondoong, there were two rows of dead trees
+about twenty feet high, planted in front of the houses, and orchids
+were growing on them. The people seemed happy and contented under the
+rule of Manipur, and their houses were large and commodious structures.
+
+We reached Eethum Tannah in the valley of Manipur after a terrible
+descent, rendered all the more difficult by heavy rain, which made
+the narrow path so slippery as to be almost impassable. During the
+whole of my long march through a wild country covered with forest
+I had, with the exception of the Hoolook monkey (Hylohete) seen no
+wild animals, scarcely a bird!
+
+I reached Manipur on March 22nd, having greatly enjoyed my tour in
+the hills, and had hardly arrived when Thangal Major came to see me
+and talk about the Chussad business. Soon after I sent to Tonghoo,
+the Chussad chief, to demand his submission. He did not come himself,
+but sent his brother Yankapo. The Manipuris thought this a grand
+opportunity to secure hostages, and begged me to allow the arrest
+of him and his followers. I severely rebuked them for making such a
+treacherous proposal.
+
+I had several interviews with the young chief and his followers who
+spoke Manipuri fluently, and admitted that they were subjects of
+the Maharajah. This visit eventually led to a better understanding
+with the Chussads, and to the submission of Tonghoo himself, who
+subsequently became a peaceable subject. For the present, however,
+I had to exact reparation for the attack on Chingsow, and for some
+months the affair cost me much anxiety.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+    Saving a criminal from execution--Konoma men visit me--A terrible
+    earthquake--Destruction wrought in the capital--Illness of the
+    Maharajah--Question as to the succession--Arrival of the Queen's
+    warrant--Reception by Maharajah--The Burmese question.
+
+
+About this time I heard one morning that a man had been convicted
+in concert with a woman of committing a grave offence, and that the
+woman had, according to custom, been sentenced to be exposed in every
+bazaar in the country, in the way already described. The man had
+been sentenced to death, and ordered to Shoogoonoo for execution. As
+the offence was not one which our courts would punish with death, I
+sent a friendly remonstrance to the Maharajah, and requested that he
+might be produced before me, that I might satisfy myself that he was
+uninjured. The Maharajah at once consented, and in a few days the man
+was brought before me safe and sound, and after having been exposed as
+a criminal in several bazaars, he was sentenced with my approval to
+a fitting term of imprisonment. I also asked the minister in future,
+to let me know for certain when a sentence of death was passed, that I
+might advise them, without appearing to the outer world to interfere,
+in case they inadvertently condemned a man to capital punishment,
+for a crime which our laws would not approve of being visited so
+severely. Realising that my object was to save them from discredit,
+they at once consented, and I hinted that I would never sanction the
+penalty of death for cow-killing.
+
+As I have stated, it had been almost always the custom to refer death
+sentences to me. Often and often when I made a remonstrance to the
+ministers about any contemplated action of which I disapproved, I was
+told that I misapprehended the state of things, and that nothing of
+the kind was intended. Of course, I let them down easily, and appeared
+satisfied with their assurances. However, neither party was deceived,
+they accepted my strong hint in a friendly spirit, and knew well that
+I took their denial as a mere matter of form. The result was what I
+cared for, and it was generally achieved without friction.
+
+One of the most unpleasant parts of my duty was the perpetual necessity
+of saying "No" to the ministers. My great object was to be continually
+building up our prestige. Colonel McCulloch had said to me, "Never
+make any concession to the Manipuris without an equivalent," and it is
+inconceivable how many times in our daily intercourse I had to refuse
+little apparently insignificant, but really insidious requests. The
+struggle on behalf of native British subjects was long kept up, but
+in the end I gained my point, and their rights and privileges were
+fully recognised.
+
+Early in June, some men of the Merema clan of Konoma who were
+fugitives in a very wild part of the hills of Manipur bordering
+on the Naga Hills, came to me, making a piteous appeal for mercy,
+saying they would have nothing to do with the Naga Hills officials,
+but came to me as their old friend and master in the days when I was at
+Samagudting. As they came in trusting to my honour, I would not have
+them arrested, but sent them away, telling them that nothing but good
+and loyal conduct on their part could win my esteem, and that they
+must make their submission and deliver up Mr. Damant's murderers to
+the Political Officer in the Naga Hills, before I consented to deal
+with them. I also gave orders to the Manipuri troops on the frontier,
+to act with the utmost vigour against all Konoma men found within
+the territory of Manipur.
+
+Soon after some Lushais visited me, and we settled up a long-standing
+dispute between them and Manipur.
+
+The Konoma men continued to give much trouble, and to keep some check
+on them, I refused at last to allow any to enter Manipur, except by
+the Mao Tannah, and furnished with a pass from the Political Officer,
+Colonel Michell. I also arrested one of the supposed murderers,
+but the evidence against him was not considered quite satisfactory.
+
+On the morning of June 30th, at 4.45, when we were at Kang-joop-kool
+there was a violent earthquake, the oscillations continuing with great
+force from north to south, and apparently in a less degree from east to
+west for some minutes. Plaster was shaken from the walls, and crockery
+and bottles thrown down, and furniture upset. Locked doors were flung
+open and the whole house, built of wood and bamboo, shaken as by a
+giant hand. Two Naga girls sleeping in my children's room next to the
+one my wife and I occupied, sprang up and ran outside, my two boys,
+not realising what was up, seemed to think it a good joke. We all got
+up and hurried on our things to be ready for an emergency, but I soon
+saw that all present danger was over. At 8.50 A.M., there was another
+sharp shock, and again about 2 P.M., besides several slighter ones.
+
+In the valley, and especially at the capital, the shocks were of the
+utmost violence and the earthquake said to be the worst known with the
+exception of the terrible one of January 1869. Many houses built of
+wood and bamboo were levelled with the ground, the ruins at Langthabal
+greatly injured, and a peepul tree growing over a picturesque old
+temple torn off. The old Residency was greatly injured, part being
+thrown down, and the fireplace and chimney shaken into fragments,
+but still, strange to say, standing. Some houses in the Residency
+compound were rendered useless. The great brick bridge on the Cachar
+road was cracked and much damage done. The earth opened in several
+places. The new Residency, which was nearly finished, and was built
+in the old English half-timbered style, was intact.
+
+During the next few days several more shocks occurred, causing much
+alarm among the people, who predicted something still worse. The
+earthquake was followed by the severest outbreak of cholera that I had
+witnessed since a dreadful epidemic in Assam in 1860. There were many
+deaths in the palace, and public business was at a standstill. I was
+unable to lay any question before the Durbar, as half the officials
+were performing the funeral ceremonies of relations. The great bazaar
+was closed at sunset, and even then many of the sellers went home
+to find their children dead or dying. Everywhere on the banks of
+the rivers, and streams, people might be seen performing the funeral
+obsequies of relations and lamenting the dead. Amid this trouble, the
+attitude of all classes was such as to excite admiration, there were no
+cases of sick being deserted and every one appeared calm and collected.
+
+Later on, the cholera attacked my village of Kang-joop-kool, and ten
+per cent. of the population died.
+
+Early in the autumn, the Maharajah was taken ill with an abscess
+behind the ear, and great apprehensions were entertained for his
+life. The whole capital was for weeks in a state of alarm, fearing a
+struggle for the throne in case of his death. The four eldest sons,
+and also some members of the family of the late Rajah Nur Singh,
+had their followers armed so as to be ready to assert their several
+claims immediately the Maharajah died, the former were constantly in
+attendance on their father night and day. The Maharajah was himself
+very anxious about the conduct of his younger sons. As suffocation
+might any moment have terminated the invalid's life, I made all
+necessary plans, with a view to acting promptly, if required, and,
+in conjunction with Thangal Major, arranged so as to secure the
+guns and bring them over to the Residency the moment that he died. I
+also desired the Jubraj (heir apparent) to come over to me at once,
+in the event of the death of his father, that I might instantly
+proclaim him and give him my support. I had a most grateful message
+from the Maharajah in reply, as also from the Jubraj, who promised
+to abide entirely by my instructions. However, the abscess burst,
+and the Maharajah recovered, and though a shot imprudently fired
+one evening led to a panic when the bazaar was deserted, things soon
+settled down again.
+
+As soon as the Maharajah was again able to transact business, he
+begged me to write to the Government of India and request that the
+Jubraj should be acknowledged by them as his successor. I did so, at
+the same time strongly urging that the guarantee should be extended to
+the Jubraj's children, so as to preclude the possibility of a disputed
+succession on his death. The Jubraj earnestly supported this request,
+but the Maharajah preferred adhering to the old Manipuri custom,
+which really seemed made to encourage strife. If, for instance, a man
+had ten sons, they all succeeded one after the other, passing over
+the children of the elder ones, but when the last one died, then his
+children succeeded as children of the last Rajah, to the exclusion of
+all the elder brothers' children. All the same, if these could make
+good their claim by force of arms, they were cheerfully accepted by
+the people who were ready to take any scion of Royalty.
+
+The consequence had always been in former days that to prevent
+troublesome claims, a man, on ascending the throne, immediately made
+every effort to murder all possible competitors. It is obvious that
+such a cumbersome system was undesirable, and I held that having once
+interfered we ought to set things on a proper and sensible basis, and
+that there was no middle course between this and leaving the people to
+themselves. Thangal Major, who always greatly dreaded the violent and
+unscrupulous disposition of Kotwal Koireng (afterwards Senaputtee),
+agreed with me. The Maharajah, however, with a father's tenderness
+for his sons, would not advocate my proposal, but still, would have
+gladly accepted it. The Government of India judged differently,
+and only sanctioned my proposal so far as to allow me to say that
+they would guarantee the Jubraj's succession, and maintain him on
+his throne. This decision gave great satisfaction.
+
+This year was unpleasantly distinguished by a great deficiency of rain
+in the valley, and a corresponding superfluity, though at irregular
+intervals, in the hills. For a long time there were apprehensions
+of scarcity, while in the hills the rainfall was so heavy that the
+Laimetak bridge was washed away and the river rose six feet above its
+banks. On one side, a large portion of its pebbly bed was hollowed
+out, and much widened, and 80 feet width of solid boulders carried
+away. The Eerung rose about 40 feet, and portions of the hill road
+were cut away, but the want of steady rain was felt.
+
+By the end of September, the Maharajah was able to transact business,
+though, as he was not well enough to visit me, I visited him, that
+I might congratulate him on his recovery, and present him with Her
+Majesty's warrant, appointing him a Knight Commander of the Star of
+India. The papers bearing the Queen's signature were received with a
+salute of thirty-one guns, and the Maharajah rose to take it from my
+hand, and at once placed it on his forehead, making an obeisance. I
+then made a speech to all assembled, expressing my satisfaction at
+the Maharajah's recovery, and the gratification it gave me to be the
+means of conveying the warrant to him.
+
+Nothing of great importance now occurred, but I was constantly
+occupied by the troubled state of the eastern frontier of Manipur
+where Sumjok (Thoungdoot) continued to intrigue with the Chussad and
+Choomyang Kukis, who were a ceaseless trouble to the Tankhool Nagas,
+about Chattik. These intrigues were conducted with a view to gaining
+over the latter as subjects. The chief difficulty of Manipur was,
+that the boundary had never been properly defined, so neither party
+had a good case against the other. Manipur was in possession, but
+otherwise everything was unsatisfactory, our failure to settle the
+Kongal case having encouraged the Burmese authorities to resistance.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+    March to Mao and improvement of the road--Lieutenant
+    Raban--Constant troubles with Burmah--Visit to Mr. Elliott
+    at Kohima--A tiger hunt made easy--A perilous adventure--Rose
+    bushes--Brutal conduct of Prince Koireng--We leave Manipur for
+    England.
+
+
+In November, I marched to Mao on the Naga Hills frontier, and arranged
+for the improvement of some of the halting places on the way. I also
+asked Sir Steuart Bayley, the Chief Commissioner, to allow Lieutenant
+Raban, R.E., to visit Manipur, with a view to laying out the line
+of a cart road from the Manipur valley to Mao. This arrangement he
+sanctioned, and Lieutenant Raban arrived in Manipur on December 30th,
+1880. The line from Sengmai was bad throughout, and an exceedingly
+difficult one in many places. Thangal Major accompanied us, and
+I had induced the Maharajah to open out a narrow road, on being
+supplied with the necessary tools. We carefully examined the whole
+of the road in detail, and, after deciding on the line to adopt,
+cut the trace. It was a matter requiring great skill and patience,
+both of which Lieutenant Raban had. He was very ably seconded by the
+Manipuris, whose keen intelligence made them good auxiliaries. Often
+the line had to be cut along the face of a cliff, but fortunately the
+rock was soft, and the work was accomplished without accident. The
+way we turned the head of the Mao river, the descent to and ascent
+from which I had so often, so painfully accomplished, was a great
+success, and did not materially increase the distance, as we saved
+it by striking the main path at different points. [32]
+
+In the village of Mukhel near which we passed, we saw a pear tree
+three or four hundred years old, and greatly venerated by the
+villagers. In the same village I saw a Naga cut another man's hair
+with a dao (sword). The operation was performed most dexterously
+and neatly, by holding the dao under the hair, and then slightly
+tapping the latter with a small piece of wood. The result was that
+the hair-cutting was as neatly accomplished as it could have been
+by the best London hair-dresser. I asked a fine young Naga why all
+his tribe wore a single long tuft of hair at the back? He at once
+replied, "To make the girls admire me," and added that without it,
+he should be laughed at. This is the only explanation I ever had
+of the curious fact that most of the Naga tribes wear a long tuft
+behind, like Hindoos. By the third week in January we had laid out
+the line of road. Thangal Major approved of most of it, but said,
+regarding the piece between Sengmai and Kaithemahee, "I will cut it
+as I promised, but who will ever use it?" I differed from him, as
+nothing could exceed the tortuous and hilly nature of the old road,
+running as it did across one succession of spurs and deep ravines,
+one of the most heart-breaking paths I ever went along. Within a
+month of its completion the old path was entirely deserted.
+
+My health was beginning to break down entirely. I had been very ill
+during and immediately after the Naga Hills Expedition, and during
+the last march I was laid up one or two days. My wife had long been
+a sufferer, but she did not like to leave me, and I did not like
+to leave Manipur while the frontier was disturbed and the Kongal
+case unsettled. However, now I felt that we both must have change,
+and our children also were of an age to go home.
+
+On my return from looking after the road, fresh complications awaited
+me. News came from Chattik of the Sumjok (Thoungdoot) authorities
+having again caused dissension and joined with another village in
+firing on a Manipuri piquet. This had led to reprisals on the part
+of the Manipuris, who attacked and drove out the enemy. All this was
+done without our relations with Sumjok being anything but strained,
+the act of hostility being unauthorised. The ill-defined nature of
+the frontier was such, that neither party could be said to be in the
+right or wrong. The Kuki, Chussad, and other frontier villages took
+advantage of the state of things to plunder the Tankhools, and the
+latter in their turn appealed to Manipur.
+
+I felt that, until something was done to set things on a right
+footing, I could not leave. Sir Steuart Bayley was about this time
+appointed to Hyderabad, which added to my difficulties, as he was
+intimately acquainted with the situation, and of course a change in
+the administration necessarily means delay. The Burmese authorities,
+knowing what I now do, were always, as I then believed, favourably
+inclined to us; the ill-feeling was entirely on the part of Sumjok,
+whose Tsawbwa had influence at Mandalay, and was able to prevent
+justice being done in the case in which he was so discreditably
+concerned. He also took advantage of this influence to carry on the
+guerilla warfare he did through the Chussads, who disliked Manipur,
+on account of some treacherous behaviour on her part in former years.
+
+As the spring advanced, of course the danger of hostilities became
+less. Cæsar said, "Omnia bella hieme requiescunt." The reverse holds
+good in India, and on the eastern frontier the fiercest tribes keep
+quiet in the rainy season. [33]
+
+In March, I heard that Mr. (now Sir Charles) Elliott, the new Chief
+Commissioner, was about to visit Kohima, where he wished to meet
+me, and I set off on my way there, arriving on the 19th, being
+well received all along the road by the people of the different
+villages. I had a long talk with the Chief Commissioner about the
+affairs of Manipur, and the necessity for a survey and delimitation of
+the boundary between it and Burmah during the ensuing cold weather,
+and then returned. The new road had been opened out to such a width,
+except here and there--I was able to ride the whole distance.
+
+The weather was lovely, and the rhododendrons near Mao, and the wild
+pears, azaleas, and many other flowering trees along my route, made
+the long journey a most pleasant one. Let me say here, while on the
+subject of the road, that, notwithstanding all the criticisms passed
+on it and predictions of its uselessness, it proved of immense,
+nay, incalculable value during the Burmese War of 1885-86, and the
+sad troubles of 1891. It was throughout of an easy gradient, never
+exceeding one in twenty, and, had a bullock train been established,
+might have been used from an early date for conveying produce from
+Manipur to the stations of Kohima.
+
+This was my last visit to Kohima, a place fraught with so deep an
+interest to me, and so many pleasant and painful associations. I shall
+always regret that the site chosen by myself and Major Williamson
+was not adopted for the new cantonment, which, with the larger
+space available, would have admitted of a greater development than
+is possible under present circumstances. Still the place will always
+possess an undying interest for me, filled as it is with the memory
+of events bearing on my work from the early triumphs of old Ghumbeer
+Singh, and my predecessor, Lieut. Gordon, to the day when I marched in
+at the head of the relieving party, and heard the fair-haired English
+child told by her mother that at last she could have water to drink!
+
+On my return to Manipur, I intended to have started for England,
+and our passages were taken by a steamer leaving in April. But the
+unsettled state of the Burmese frontier forced me to stay till the
+rains had set in in the hills. During this spring we had a visitor,
+Mr. Hume, C.B., the well-known ornithologist, who spent three months
+in studying the birds of Manipur, with the result, I believe, that
+very few new species were found.
+
+In April, we had a little excitement to vary the monotony of life,
+though to me my work was of such never-ending interest, that I needed
+nothing of the kind. On April 13th, the Maharajah sent to tell me
+that a tiger had been surrounded, and asked me to go out and help
+to shoot it. The place was about fourteen miles from the capital,
+and we started early and rode off to a spot a few miles from Thobal.
+
+I took my sister and the two boys with me, my wife staying with
+the baby. The tiger had, according to Manipuri custom, been first
+enclosed by a long net, about eight feet high, and outside this a
+bamboo palisading had been erected, on which the platforms were built
+for the spectators. The space enclosed was eighty to a hundred yards
+in diameter, and contained grass and scrub jungle, and a log of wood
+tied to strong ropes was arranged, so that it might be dragged up and
+down to drive the tiger out of the covert. As soon as we were all in
+our places this rope was vigorously pulled, with the result that a
+tigress, followed by two cubs, sprang out with a loud roar. The Jubraj
+was present, and took command of the proceedings, courteously asking
+me from time to time what I wished done. After the first charge, the
+tiger was not very lively, and this being the case, several Manipuris,
+contrary to orders, jumped down into the arena with long and heavy
+spears in the right hand, and a small forked stick in the left. With
+the latter they held up a portion of the net, which had been allowed
+to fall on the ground to shield their faces, if necessary, and with
+the right hand poised the spear, shouting to irritate the tiger,
+whom others in the stockade tried to drive out by throwing stones.
+
+Roused by this, the infuriated brute charged in earnest at one of the
+men on foot, the latter awaited her with the utmost coolness, and, as
+she approached, struck her with the spear; the tiger, however, made
+good her charge, but the net stopped her, and she rolled over, and
+when released, she retreated. This was repeated, both by the tigress
+and the cubs, and after a shot or two, the men on foot attacked them
+with spears and finished them off.
+
+The whole scene was a very exciting one and a very fine display of
+courage and coolness on the part of the Manipuris.
+
+We did not reach home till 10 P.M., but the weather was splendid,
+not unbearably hot as it would have been in India so late in the
+season. The day was a memorable one to the boys, and I well remember
+the astonishment they caused when, stopping at Shillong on their way
+home, some one jokingly said, "And how many tigers have you shot?" The
+boys gravely replied "Three."
+
+The day was very nearly proving the last to some of us. The two
+boys were being carried in a litter, and my sister and I riding on
+ponies. On leaving the village where we had halted, we were riding
+down a narrow path with only room for one to pass at a time, when,
+suddenly, I heard a shout behind me and saw an elephant following
+me at a great pace, the mahout (driver) vainly endeavoured to stop
+him, he had been frightened by the tiger's dead body and was quite
+unmanageable. I called to my sister, who was in front, to ride at
+full speed, and I followed as quickly as her pony would allow. It
+was a race for life, as, had the elephant gained on us, I, at least,
+must have been crushed. Luckily, the mahout recovered his control,
+and managed to slacken the pace.
+
+On our way home, we passed bushes of wild roses twenty feet in diameter
+and quite impenetrable.
+
+Finally, the tiger was taken to the Maharajah, who had not been well
+enough to come, and, next morning, was brought to us and skinned.
+
+I have already alluded to the turbulent character of Kotwal Koireng,
+the Maharajah's fourth son, and now, again, I was to have fresh
+evidence of it. Early in May, I heard of his having three men so
+severely beaten that one had died, and two were dangerously ill. On
+investigation, I found that the men had been tied up and beaten on
+the back, it was said, for two hours and slapped on the face at the
+same time. I questioned the ministers, and practically there was no
+defence, and, as I heard that the Maharajah was enquiring into the
+matter, I said no more, beyond a warning that a case of murder must
+not be passed over.
+
+The Maharajah handed over the case to the Cherap Court [34] for trial,
+and, as might be expected, they acquitted Kotwal of the charge of
+causing death and found him guilty of injuring the other two. The
+Maharajah sentenced him to banishment for a year to the island of
+Thanga, in the Logtak Lake, and temporary degradation of caste. As
+a sentence of two years' imprisonment had been passed some years
+previously in our own territory, for death caused under similar
+circumstances, the sentence was not so lenient as might have been
+expected. I reported the matter to the Government of India, expressing
+my approval of the sentence, under the circumstances, and my verdict
+was ratified. I intimated to the Durbar that, should such a thing
+occur again, I should insist on his permanent banishment from Manipur.
+
+This I was prepared to carry out myself if necessary. I should
+have liked on this occasion to have procured his banishment, but,
+in dealing with Native States that in these matters are practically
+independent, it is not always well to press matters too far. In old
+days, under our early political agents, such an offence would have
+passed unnoticed. It was a point gained to have the case investigated
+and adjudicated on by the Maharajah, and anything approaching to an
+adequate sentence inflicted. Since the troubles in Manipur, I have
+seen it stated that the sentence was a nominal one; that it certainly
+was not, the prince was banished to Thanga, and if he surreptitiously
+appeared at the capital, he did not appear in public, and when I left
+Manipur on long leave, early in 1882, was still in banishment.
+
+On May 31st, we all left Manipur on our way to England, and my children
+bade adieu to a most happy home. It was a sad parting for most of us,
+and though my wife's health and mine urgently required change, we left
+the valley with regret, and felt deep sorrow as we took our last look
+of it from the adjacent range of hills. We reached Cachar on June 8th,
+having halted as much as possible on high ground. The rivers were in
+flood, and sometimes there was a little difficulty in crossing. We left
+for Shillong on June 9th, and arrived there on the 15th, leaving again
+on the 21st for Bombay, from which, on July 5th, we sailed for England.
+
+While at Shillong we were the guests of the Chief Commissioner,
+so that I had an ample opportunity of talking over affairs with him,
+and it was finally settled that I was to take Shillong on my way back,
+and see Mr. Elliott before leaving, to settle the knotty question of
+the boundary between Manipur and Burmah on the spot, in accordance
+with orders lately received from the Government of India.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+    Return to Manipur--Revolution in my absence--Arrangements for
+    boundary--Survey and settlement--Start for Kongal--Burmah will not
+    act--We settle boundary--Report to Government--Return to England.
+
+
+I was really not fit to undertake any work in India till my health
+was re-established, but could not bear to leave the interests of
+Manipur in other hands until the boundary was settled. I felt that
+I alone had the threads of the whole affair in my hands, and that I
+could not honourably leave my post till I had seen Manipur out of the
+difficulty. Thus it came that I left England again on September 7th,
+and my devoted wife, far less fit than I was for the trials of the
+long journey, accompanied me, as she would not leave me alone.
+
+We reached Shillong on October 18th, 1881, and, after arranging
+all matters connected with the boundary settlement with the Chief
+Commissioner, started for Cachar, and reached that place on October
+25th, leaving again for Manipur next day, and marching to Jeree Ghât,
+where we were met by Thangal Major. We made the usual marches, and
+reached Manipur on November 4th, the Jubraj coming out with a large
+retinue to meet me at Phoiching, eight miles from the capital.
+
+While I was away in the month of June, an attempt at a revolution
+had occurred, the standard of revolt having been raised by a man
+named Eerengha, an unknown individual, but claiming to be of Royal
+lineage; such revolutions were of common occurrence in former days. In
+Colonel McCulloch's time there were eighteen. In this case there was no
+result, except that Eerengha and seventeen followers were captured and
+executed. The treatment was undoubtedly severe, but not necessarily
+too much so, as too great leniency might have led to a repetition,
+and much consequent suffering and bloodshed.
+
+I had an interview with the Maharajah, who was ill when I arrived,
+as soon as he was well enough; and set to work to make preparations
+for our march to the Burmese frontier. I intimated my desire to the
+Maharajah that Bularam Singh, and not Thangal Major, should accompany
+me, as I wished the last to stay at the capital, and also not to let
+him appear to be absolutely indispensable.
+
+I had been appointed Commissioner for settling the boundary with
+plenipotentiary powers, and Mr. R. Phayre, C.S., who was in the
+Burmese commission, and a good Burmese scholar, was appointed as my
+assistant. There was also a survey party under my old friend Colonel
+Badgley, and Mr. Ogle, while Lieutenant (now Major, D.S.O.) Dun, [35]
+came on behalf of the Intelligence Department. Mr. Oldham represented
+the Geological Survey. Dr. Watt was naturalist and medical officer,
+while Captain Angelo, with two hundred men of the 12th Khelat-i-Ghilzie
+Regiment, commanded my escort. Mr. Phayre arrived first, and I sent him
+off to Tamu to try and smooth over matters with the Burmese authorities
+there. Then my old friend Dun came, soon followed by Dr. Watt, then the
+survey party arrived, and Captain Angelo with my escort, and last of
+all Mr. Oldham. Never had Manipur seen so many European officers. Some
+time was required for necessary triangulations before we could start.
+
+On November 30th, just as the sun was rising, Thangal Major came to
+see me, and told me that the Maharajah was very ill and suffering
+great pain. While talking, two guns were fired from the palace, when
+the old man turned pale, evidently thinking that the Maharajah was
+dead. A few minutes after a messenger came to inform us that the guns
+merely announced a domestic event, but Thangal Major was nervous and
+soon took leave, running away to the palace at a pace that did credit
+to his sixty-four years.
+
+On December 1st, Mr. Phayre returned from Tamu, having had a friendly
+but unsatisfactory interview with the Phoongyee. The Pagan Woon had
+been expected but did not arrive, and the Phoongyee had no authority
+to act.
+
+Before starting, the Maharajah visited me in state, and I introduced
+all the officers of the party to him. He looked pale and haggard after
+his illness, but seemed in good spirits. At last, on December 16th,
+we made a move and marched to Thobal-Yaira-pok, and on the following
+day to Ingorok, at the foot of the hills. My wife accompanied us, as
+I was exceedingly anxious to show the Burmese my peaceful intentions,
+and felt sure that the presence of a lady would be a better proof of
+my bona fides than any other I could offer. I heard before leaving
+the frontier, that had it not been for this, a rupture would have
+been certain while our relations were in a state of great tension,
+but the fact of my wife being there, convinced the authorities in
+the Kubo valley, that I had no idea of hostile action.
+
+I have already described the route to Kongal, and my escort were much
+tried by the severity of the marches over such a rough country. The men
+had only lately returned from Afghanistan, and were in fine condition,
+but they said that the country between Kandahar and Kabul, was nothing
+to that between Ingorok and Kongal Tannah. Every day many men were
+footsore, and reached camp, hours after me and my Manipuris. There
+can be no doubt that for some reason or other the Eastern hills and
+jungles are far more trying than those of the North-West frontier.
+
+However, at last we arrived safely at Kongal, and though the Burmese
+and Sumjok officials, to whom I had written polite letters asking
+them to meet me, did not turn up, the survey work went on merrily.
+
+On the 18th, Colonel Badgley, who had come by an independent route
+through the hills, joined my camp, and after a conference we came to
+the conclusion that at any rate I was right in claiming the country
+occupied by the Chussads and Choomyangs, as Manipuri territory. This
+was very satisfactory, as the day before I had been much annoyed by the
+Sumjok authorities having prevented some of the former fears coming
+to pay their respects to me. The attitude of the Sumjok people was
+passively hostile, they refused to join in making out the boundary,
+and threw every obstacle in the way of my doing so, but they were
+evidently not inclined to be the first to shed blood.
+
+On December 19th, I sent out two unarmed parties to clear some
+ground for survey marks, but one of them was stopped by an armed
+party of Sumjok men. On hearing this the next day I ordered the
+Manipuri subadar in charge, to halt where he was, and I wrote to
+the Pagan Woon to complain, and to ask him to order the Tsawbwa to
+interfere. On the 21st, I heard that another party had been stopped,
+and I asked with regard to them as I had done with the first. That
+afternoon I received a civil letter from the Pagan Woon brought by
+a Bo (captain), saying that he had orders to conduct negotiations
+at Tamu, and was not authorised to come to Kongal Tannah. I wrote a
+conciliatory reply urging him to visit us.
+
+On the 22nd of December, I heard that my two parties had been
+forcibly driven out by large bodies of armed men. I therefore called
+in some Manipuri detachments lest there should be a collision, as
+the atmosphere was getting very warlike, and only required a spark
+to produce a conflagration. All the population of the Kubo valley
+were said to be arming. The Burmese we talked to frankly admitted
+if there was a rupture the fault would lie with Mandalay, for not
+sending a proper representative to meet me, in accordance with the
+request of the Government of India, conveyed months before.
+
+Certainly one false move on our part would have provoked a
+rupture. However, everything comes to him who waits. We made every
+effort to keep the peace, and while the authorities were opposing
+us we kept up a friendly intercourse with all the individual Burmese
+and Shans near us, and I carried on negotiation with the Kukis. The
+Chussads were inclined to be friendly, but the Choomyangs were still
+under the influence of Sumjok. Fortunately Colonel Badgley found that
+he could dispense with the two points from whence our men had been
+driven, and we discovered a little stream that formed an admirable
+boundary line entirely in accordance with the terms laid down in
+Pemberton's definition of the boundary.
+
+Further north, I knew the country well myself, and we had now no
+difficulty in laying down a definite boundary line about which there
+could be no doubt. This was done, and pillars were erected, and the
+line marked on the map. Manipur might, according to Pemberton's
+statement, have claimed a good deal of territory occupied by
+Burmese subjects, but this I refused to allow, as it would have been
+interfering with the "status quo," which I desired to preserve. I
+called all the Sumjok people I could to witness what I had done,
+and they all agreed that what I said was fair, and that the fault,
+if any, lay with the Burmese authorities, for not taking part in
+the arrangement. This was willing testimony, as none of the people
+need have come near me. Even Tamoo, the chief of Old Sumjok, or Taap,
+as the Manipuris call it, visited me, and expressed his satisfaction
+with what had been done. On Christmas Day, 1881, my wife and I had a
+party of seven at our table, an unprecedented sight, and probably the
+last time that nine Europeans will ever assemble at Kongal Tannah. My
+friend Dun, who had been badly wounded by a pangee (bamboo stake)
+had to be carried in.
+
+Before leaving Kongal, I went round all the pillars that had been
+erected, and saw that they were intact. Mr. Ogle's party went off to
+the north, escorted through the village of Choomyang by Lieutenant
+Dun. These people being under the influence of Sumjok, it was a
+very delicate business getting through their village without a
+rupture. This affair Dun managed with great tact. We left Kongal
+on our homeward journey on the 6th of January, but previous to
+starting I brought my long-standing negotiations with the Chussads
+to a successful conclusion. They agreed to negotiate with me but not
+with the Manipuris, and to abide by my decision entirely.
+
+I sent a message to the Choomyangs and other Kukis who had
+given trouble, telling them that they were undoubtedly within
+Manipur, and that I gave them forty-two days in which to submit,
+or clear out, adding, that if at the end of that time they gave any
+trouble, they would be treated as rebels and attacked without more
+ceremony. Eventually they submitted and became peaceful subjects
+of Manipur. As to the great question--that of the boundary--I may
+here add that it received the sanction of the Government of India,
+and proved a thorough success. Though not noticing it officially,
+the Burmese practically acknowledged it, and it remained intact,
+till the Kubo valley became a British possession in December 1885.
+
+My wife and I reached Manipur on the 9th of January, having made the
+last two marches in one, and next day were joined by Mr. Phayre, who
+had come, viâ Tamu. He gave it as his opinion, that the Pagan Woon
+was greatly disappointed at having had no authority from Mandalay to
+negotiate with me, and described him as a sensible well-disposed man.
+
+I had now to write my report of my mission, and having finished this,
+and handed over charge to my successor, I left Manipur with my wife
+on the 29th of January, reaching Cachar, where we met Mr. Elliott,
+the Chief Commissioner, on 5th of February. We left that evening by
+boat, and travelling with the utmost speed possible, with such means
+as we possessed, reached Naraingunge, near Dacca, and after waiting
+two days for a steamer went to Calcutta, viâ Goalundo, and thence to
+Bombay and England, where we arrived in March, both of us very much
+in need of a prolonged rest.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+    Return to India--Visit Shillong--Manipur again--Cordial
+    reception--Trouble with Thangal Major--New arts introduced.
+
+
+I left for India again in August 1884. I had had but a sad period
+of sick leave, as my wife never recovered from her fatigue and
+illness, and died in 1883. I was obliged to prolong my leave to make
+arrangements for my children.
+
+I took over charge of the Manipur Agency on the 1st October, 1884,
+at Shillong, and stayed a few days with the Chief Commissioner. I
+left again on 8th October and reached Cachar on the 15th, having
+made every effort to push on, and given my boatmen double pay for
+doing so. On my way to Cachar, I met people who complained to me of
+the way they had been treated in Manipur while I was away, and of the
+arrogance displayed by old Thangal Major, who, during my absence, had
+become almost despotic. Thangal was an excellent man when kept well
+in hand, but he required to be managed with great firmness. During
+the Maharajah's increasing illness, a good opportunity was given to
+a strong man to come to the front, and Thangal took advantage of
+it. On 20th October, I reached Jeeree Ghât, and was received with
+great effusion by the Minister Bularam Singh. At Kala Naga on the
+22nd, I heard definite complaints against Thangal, a sure proof that
+something very bad was going on, as no one would have ventured to
+complain without grave provocation. Bularam Singh was Thangal's rival,
+so I asked him nothing, knowing well that I should hear as much as I
+wanted at Manipur. At Noongha, next day, there were fresh complaints,
+the charge being, that men told off to work on the roads were being
+used by Thangal to carry merchandize for himself.
+
+At Leelanong, overlooking the beautiful Kowpoom valley, some Nagas
+(Koupooees) brought me a man of their tribe who had been carried off
+as a boy by the Lushais, and only lately redeemed. He was still in
+Lushai costume, and though shorter and fairer, he greatly resembled
+one of that tribe, showing what an influence dress has.
+
+On 28th October, I arrived at Bissenpore, intending to march to the
+capital next day, but was delayed by an unpleasant circumstance. It
+was, as already mentioned, the custom for the Maharajah to meet me
+at the entrance to the capital on my arrival, but knowing that he was
+not well, I asked the minister to write and say that I did not expect
+him to do so, but I would invite the Jubraj to meet me at Phoiching,
+half-way between the capital and Bissenpore instead. I also wrote the
+same to my head clerk, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo, asking him to notify
+my wishes to the Durbar, as I felt it extremely likely that were
+Bularam Singh alone to write, old Thangal might intrigue and throw
+obstacles in the way to discredit him with me and the Durbar. The
+minister's letters were not answered, but I heard from Rusni Lall
+Coondoo, that he asked to see the Jubraj who had already heard from
+Bularam Singh, but he was told that he was ill. After a great deal of
+delay an interview was accorded, and though he appeared quite well,
+the Jubraj said he was too ill to come, but would send a younger
+brother. Feeling sure that there was nothing to prevent his coming,
+I sent a message of sympathy, also to say, that I would wait at
+Bissenpore till he recovered. I knew perfectly well that all this
+story had emanated from Thangal Major's brain, and that I was to be
+subjected to inconvenience and want of courtesy, in order to snub his
+colleague. He had suffered from a sore foot which prevented his coming
+to Jeeree Ghât to meet me and he could not forgive Bularam Singh for
+having taken his place. The Jubraj ought to have known better, but
+among natives any slight offered to a superior is an enhancement to
+one's own dignity, so from this point of view he would gain in his
+own estimation.
+
+On the morning of October 30th, as soon as I was dressed, I saw
+Thangal Major outside my hut. I heard afterwards that, directly my
+decision had been communicated to the Durbar, he had volunteered
+to come out, and as he said, bring me in. When we had had a little
+friendly conversation, he with his usual bluntness, which I did
+not object to, asked me to go in, saying that the Wankai Rakpa [36]
+would meet me, the Jubraj being ill. I firmly declined, saying that I
+would wait till he recovered. He then assured me that the real cause
+was the critical state of the Jubraj's wife. I doubted the truth,
+but a lady being in the case, courtesy and good feeling demanded
+that I should accept the statement as an excuse, and I therefore
+said I would leave, if the Wankai Rakpa and another prince met me
+on behalf of the Jubraj. This was at once agreed to, and I therefore
+marched off, being met in great state by the two princes, who rode by
+my side all the way. As I neared the capital, a vast crowd came out
+to meet me, the numbers increasing at every step, and I was received
+with every demonstration of respect and sympathy, many of those who
+knew my wife showing a delicacy of feeling that greatly moved me. Old
+Thangal, when I met him, spoke very kindly on the subject, saying,
+"It is sad to see you return alone, and we know what it must be to
+you." Numberless were the enquiries by name after all the children. At
+last I reached the Residency, where my old attendants were ready
+to do all they could for me. It was something like home, old books,
+furniture, children's toys, still here and there, and in a corner of
+the verandah my little girl's litter, in which she was carried out
+morning and evening, but the faces that make home were away.
+
+I mention the foregoing incident regarding the Jubraj, as it is a good
+example of the small difficulties connected with etiquette, that one
+has to contend with in a place like Manipur. The question is far more
+important than it seems. Any relaxation in a trifling matter like this,
+seems to Asiatics a sign that you are disposed to relax your vigilance
+in graver questions. Indeed, to a native chief, etiquette itself is a
+very grave matter, and many terrible quarrels have arisen from it. I
+well remember a slight being offered to the Viceroy, because a Rajah
+fancied he had not received all the honours due to him.
+
+I found a crop of small difficulties awaiting me in Manipur, the
+Durbar, and especially old Thangal, had got out of hand, and had
+to be pulled up a little. There were numberless complaints from
+British subjects of petty oppression which had to be listened to,
+and I felt it rather hard having this unpleasant duty to perform
+just after my return; but it was duty, and had to be done, and by
+dint of firmness, combined with courtesy, I soon set things right,
+but Thangal Major rather resented the steady pressure which I found
+it necessary to apply.
+
+Before leaving Manipur in 1881, I had sent off some Manipuris to
+Cawnpore to learn carpet making and leather work. When I returned,
+these men had long been making use of their knowledge in Manipur,
+and I found that first-rate cotton carpets and boots, shoes and
+saddles of English patterns, had been manufactured for the Maharajah,
+the workmanship being in all cases creditable, and in that of the
+carpets most excellent.
+
+I tried to send men to Bombay to learn to make art pottery, and the
+Maharajah was at one time anxious about it, but the correspondence
+with the School of Art was conducted in so leisurely a manner on
+their side, extending over nearly a year, that he got tired of it,
+and declined to send the men. I had a little pottery made in Manipur,
+which I brought home with me, the only existing specimens of an art
+that died out in its infancy.
+
+I had several pieces of silver work made to try the mettle of the
+Manipuri silversmiths, one bowl, a most perfect copy of a Burmese
+bowl with figures on it in high relief, was beautifully executed,
+and still excites the admiration of all who see it.
+
+The Mussulman population of Manipur, was descended from early
+immigrants from India, Sylhet, and Cachar, who had married Manipuri
+wives; they numbered about 5000, and were rather kept under by the
+Durbar, but to nothing like the same extent that Hindoos would have
+been under a Mussulman Government. Formerly, they had to prostrate
+themselves before the Rajah like other subjects, but they having
+represented that this was against their religion, Chandra Kirtee Singh
+excused them from doing it, allowing a simple salaam instead. They,
+(probably owing to their dependent position), were not such an
+ill-mannered and disagreeable set as their co-religionists of Cachar,
+and were generally quiet and inoffensive. The headman of the sect
+received the title of Nawab from the Rajah. These men had a grievance
+to bring forward when I returned, and I procured them some redress.
+
+I visited the Maharajah in due course, and found him better than I
+expected, and I took an early opportunity of announcing my return to
+the Burmese authorities in the Kubo valley, receiving civil letters in
+return. Unfortunately, I found that great soreness still prevailed
+in Manipur on account of the non-settlement of the Kongal case,
+and I was constantly on the alert lest evil results should follow,
+as I always suspected old Thangal of a desire to make reprisals.
+
+When I had a day to spare, I went to see my experimental garden and fir
+wood, at Kang-joop-kool, finding everything in a flourishing state,
+the wood a tangled thicket, with foxgloves and other English flowers
+growing in wild profusion. One morning when walking out, I saw some
+prisoners going to work, and as they passed me, one or two looked as
+if they would like to speak. I accordingly passed by them again to
+give them an opportunity, when a man ran up and complained that he
+was imprisoned without any definite period being assigned, a common
+practice in Manipur. Another man, whom he called as a witness, spoke
+good Hindoostani, and on my enquiring where he learned it, he said
+he was a Manipuri from Sylhet. I sent for him directly I got home,
+and he came with Thangal Major, and, as he was a British subject,
+and the Durbar had no right to imprison him, I sent for a smith, and
+had his irons struck off in my presence. I spoke quietly, but firmly
+to the Minister, but showed him plainly that I would not stand having
+British subjects imprisoned except by my orders. The man's offence
+was not paying a debt for which he was security, and the punishment
+was just, according to the laws of Manipur, and would have been in
+England before 1861.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+    A friend in need--Tour round the valley--Meet the Chief
+    Commissioner--March to Cachar--Tour through the Tankhool
+    country--Metomie--Saramettie--Somrah--Terrace cultivators--A
+    dislocation--Old quarters at Kongal Tannah--Return to the valley--A
+    sad parting.
+
+
+On the 26th of November, my old friend Lieutenant Dun (now Major
+Dun, D.S.O.), joined me. Knowing I wanted a friend to cheer me
+in my loneliness, he had very kindly accepted the permission of
+his department to accompany me on a tour through the hills to the
+north-east of Manipur. No European was more deservedly popular of
+late years among all classes in Manipur, where he had visited me
+once or twice before. I felt his kindness deeply, he was always a
+charming, genial and highly intellectual companion, and many a long
+and tiring march was cheered by his society. On the 2nd of December,
+we started on a preliminary tour round the west and south of the
+valley, visiting the Logtak lake, with its floating islands, its
+island-hill of Thanga, with its orange gardens and place of exile,
+and large fishing establishment. When I first arrived in Manipur,
+oranges were a rarity. Now, owing to the enterprise of the Maharajah
+in planting trees, they were fairly common, and here we were able
+to gather them. The orange tree is capricious and all soils will not
+suit it, and up to the fifth or sixth year it is always liable to be
+attacked by a grub that kills it, after that it becomes hardier. I
+never was very successful with orange trees, though I took great
+pains with them. From the Logtak lake, we marched to a place called
+Thonglel, in the hills, where we were met by all the representatives
+of the Kukis in that direction, thence to a place called Koombee,
+a settlement of Loees, low-caste Manipuris. Afterwards we marched to
+Chairel on the main river into which all the rivers of Manipur flow
+before it enters the hills to the south of the valley. After visiting
+Shoogoonoo, a frontier post, we returned to the capital, on December
+11th, after a very pleasant tour of one hundred and forty-six miles
+in nine marching days.
+
+We next marched up the road to the Naga Hills, meeting the Chief
+Commissioner, Mr. Elliott, at Mao, and returning with him to Manipur,
+where the usual visits were exchanged. After a day or two's halt,
+the Chief Commissioner set out for Cachar and I accompanied him to the
+frontier at Jeeree Ghât, returning to Manipur by forced marches. The
+bridge over the Mukker had been broken by a fallen tree, but the river,
+so formidable in the rains, was easily fordable. A short time before
+reaching the summit of Kala Naga, a pretty little incident occurred,
+which I have never forgotten. Some of my coolies were toiling up the
+steep ascent with their loads, when two young Kukis met us with smiling
+faces as if something had given them great pleasure. They immediately
+made two of the men with me put down their loads, and took them up
+themselves to relieve the wearied ones. On my enquiry who they were,
+they said they were friends of my coolies and had come to help them. It
+was one of the prettiest sights I ever saw, the pleasure the two men
+seemed to derive from doing a kind act. Dun and I reached Manipur
+on the 10th of January. Soon after my return, in fact before the
+evening, a Lushai was brought to me who had been found in the jungle
+with his hands tightly fastened together by a bar of iron fashioned
+into a rude pair of handcuffs. He appeared to be mad, but harmless,
+and had probably been kept in confinement by his own people and had
+escaped. I had the irons taken off, and ordered him to be cared for,
+but he soon ran off in the direction of his own country.
+
+On the 21st of January, Dun and I set off on our tour through the
+Tankhool country. We marched viâ Lairen and Noongsuangkong, already
+described. The country had been surveyed, but the surveyors had
+taken names of villages given by men from the Naga Hills district,
+and they were unrecognisable to the native inhabitants. Much of my
+march, after leaving Noongsuangkong, was through a new country,
+and a very interesting and lovely country it was. The benefits
+of being under a strong government were evident in the peace that
+reigned everywhere. The Manipuri language also had spread, and in some
+villages seemed to be used by every one, while in others even children
+understood it. It was evidently the common commercial language.
+
+On the 26th, we halted on the Lainer river, the large village of
+Gazephimi being far above us at some miles distant. It was late in
+the afternoon but Dun wanted to see all he could, and accompanied
+by some hardy Manipuris started. They all returned in a suspiciously
+short space of time, just at nightfall, Dun having astonished every
+one by his marching powers. He described the villagers as a surly,
+morose set, the description always given of them.
+
+On January 28th we reached Jessami, a fine village of the Sozai tribe;
+they much resembled the Mao people. They crowded round us and were
+much pleased when we showed them our watches, and allowed them to feel
+our boots and socks. Some of the houses were large and well stocked
+with rice. One old man took us into his house and showed us a shield
+carefully wrapped up in cloth that bore the tokens of his having slain
+fifteen people. The village contained no skulls, and our friends told
+us that they obeyed orders and killed no one. We enquired about the
+snowy peak of Saramettie, which was visible from some point not far
+distant, but the people assured us that they had never heard of it.
+
+On the 29th, some Metomi men came in with a young man who acted
+as interpreter, he having been captured, and then kept as a guest
+in Manipur for some time, to learn the language, by Bularam Singh,
+who was the Minister accompanying me. He seemed quite pleased to see
+his old host. The Metomi people were a strange set, quite naked,
+except for a cloth over the shoulders in cold weather. They are
+slighter built than the Angamis and Tankhools. They could count up
+to one hundred, and three of their numerals, four, six and seven,
+are the same as in the Manipuri language. They wear their hair cut
+across the forehead like some of the tribes in Assam. Their patterns
+of weaving rather resembled those of the Abors and Kasias, but were
+finer. They wore ear-rings of brass wire very cleverly made, the wire
+being imported through other tribes.
+
+On the 31st, having heard that I should be well received, Dun and
+I started for Metomi, with an escort of Manipuris. We first made a
+descent of 2000 feet to the Lainer, which we forded, the water being
+knee deep; there were the remains of a suspension bridge for use
+in the rainy season. We then ascended for about 1000 or 1500 feet,
+till near the village, when I halted my men and sent on my Angami
+interpreter, and one of the Metomi men, to ask that a party might
+come down to welcome us, as I had reason to think that the villagers
+were undecided as to what they should do, and I feared to frighten
+them. After waiting a long time, we heard a war-cry, and we all
+started to our feet and seized our arms, in case of an attack; the next
+minute, however, there was another cry, showing that the people were
+carrying loads. Soon after a long line of men appeared, each carrying
+a small quantity of rice, and the heads of the village came forward,
+presenting us with fowls, and heaped up the rice in front of me. We
+then walked on to the village, distant about a mile and a quarter,
+along an avenue of pollarded oaks, backed by fir trees. At last,
+after passing a ditch and small rampart, we reached the outer gate,
+then passed along a narrow path, with a precipice to our right, and a
+thick thorn hedge to our left for about eighty yards, as far as the
+inner gate, on entering which we found ourselves in the village. We
+were then led along a series of winding streets till we came to the
+highest part.
+
+This was the most picturesque Naga village I have ever seen, and
+reminded me of an old continental town, the ground it covered, being
+very hilly, and the houses, constructed of timber with thatched roofs
+with the eaves touching one another, built in streets. Sometimes one
+side of a street was higher than the other, and the upper side had
+a little vacant space railed in, in front of the houses.
+
+The houses were more like those of the Tankhools than the Angamis,
+and contained round tubs for beer cut out of a solid block of wood,
+in shape like old-fashioned standard churns. The village contained
+pigs and dogs, and the houses were decorated with cows' and buffaloes'
+horns. We were welcomed in a friendly way, but our hosts did not
+seem to like the idea of our staying the night, of which we had no
+intention. Our watches and binoculars greatly interested them. We
+tried in vain to induce the women to come out, the men saying they
+feared lest we should seize them. This seemed very strange, as it was
+the only hill village I ever saw where the women had the slightest
+objection to appear. As the Manipuris always respect women, it could
+not be due to their presence, even had they had experience of them,
+which was not the case. On leaving the village, we passed through
+a splendid grove of giant bamboos, and then turned into our old path
+again. Metomi was said to contain seven hundred houses, but that seemed
+to me a very low estimate. We reached our camp near Jessami at 7 P.M.,
+narrowly escaping a severe scorching, as some torch-bearers who came
+to meet us, set fire to the grass prematurely, and we had to run hard
+to escape the flames. I wanted to make a vocabulary of the Metomi
+language the next day, but the whole village had a drinking bout,
+and every one was incapacitated during the rest of our stay.
+
+We marched to a place called Lapvomai on February 3rd, and next day,
+wishing to explore the country beyond, Dun and I, with a picked party
+of Manipuris, crossed the ridge above the village, and descending
+to the stream below, began the ascent of the great Eastern range,
+encamping in a most lovely spot in a pine forest. Every one was
+too tired to search for water, so the Manipuris went supperless to
+bed. Dun and I had brought a supply, which we shared with our few
+Naga followers, the Manipuris being prevented from doing the same,
+by their caste prejudices. Early next morning we started up the hill
+again, leaving the bulk of our party a mile or two in advance of our
+halting place, to search for water and cook. We, with two or three
+plucky Manipuris, whom hunger and thirst could not induce to leave
+us, pursued our upward path. At last we came on patches of snow, and
+in a hollow tree found the remains of a bear which had gone there to
+die. After a toilsome ascent, often impeded by a thick undergrowth of
+thorny bamboo, we, having long passed the region of fir trees, reached
+the summit at 8000 feet, only to find, to our great disappointment,
+a spur from the main range blocking our view. As this range might have
+taken another day to surmount, and after all be only the precursor
+of another, we reluctantly traced our steps backwards, and reached
+our party who found water and cooked their food. We witnessed some
+amusing instances of rapid eating, on the part of our hungry followers,
+who had well deserved their dinner. We then descended to the stream,
+and encamped on its banks after being on foot for eleven hours.
+
+Next day, we marched to our old encampment at Lapvomai. On February
+7th, we marched to Wallong, passing through lovely scenery, a series
+of deep valleys and ravines and high hills, with a splendid view down
+the valley of Thetzir and Lainer, and beyond, the junction of the
+latter with its north-eastern confluent, we finally encamped close
+to a very remarkable gorge. On the 8th, we had another march to the
+village of Lusour, where I greatly pleased a woman and some children,
+by giving them red cloths, the former would have denuded herself to
+put hers on, had I not prevented her. Next morning, before starting,
+we had our breakfast in public, and ordered some boiled eggs; the
+hill people are supremely indifferent to the age of an egg, and even
+seem to think the richness of flavour enhanced by age, so that almost
+all brought to us were either addled or had chickens in them. At
+least two dozen were boiled before we found one that we could eat,
+and as soon as an egg was proved to be bad, there was a great rush
+of Tankhools to seize the delicacy, and our bad taste in not liking
+them gave great satisfaction.
+
+On February 9th, we reached Somrah, a most interesting but severe march
+of eighteen miles. We first crossed a ridge 8000 feet in height, where
+among other trees we found a new species of yew--Cephalotaxus. After
+reaching the summit, we made a gradual descent along an exceedingly
+steep hillside, where a false step would have landed us in the stream
+2000 feet below. After this we descended more rapidly, and, crossing
+a stream, followed a beautifully constructed watercourse through
+some recently cleared land. We traced our way along its windings
+for some miles, and then, after another ascent, at last came to a
+lovely undulating path through a forest of firs and rhododendrons,
+the latter just coming into flower. The path at length, after an
+ascent of 200 feet, brought us to the village, a finely built one of
+the regular Tankhool type, with over two hundred houses, built with
+stout plank walls, and having an appearance of much comfort.
+
+The next day we went to Kongailon, one of the Somrah group, making
+a descent of 2000 feet to cross a river, and again ascending 5600
+feet. We passed many skilfully constructed watercourses and much
+terrace cultivation, indeed, the Somrah villages have the finest
+system of irrigation I have ever seen, and the long parallel line of
+watercourses on a hillside present a most remarkable appearance. At
+Kongailon, we halted a day to explore the country, and receive
+deputies from various villages. From the ridge behind the village,
+at a height of from 7000 to 8000 feet, there was a fine view of the
+Somrah basin--valley it cannot be called; it is a huge basin, the rim
+of which consists of hills, having an average height of over 8000 feet,
+the villages being on the inner slopes or on bold spurs.
+
+On February 12th, a very severe march took us to Guachan,
+a miserable-looking village full of very dirty people, many of
+whom were naked, their bodies being covered with a thick coating
+of dirt. We had to halt next day to rest the coolies, and to have
+a path cleared ahead. On February 14th, we again started, halting
+on the Cherebee river, at a height of 4400 feet. On our way, while
+passing along a lovely ridge, covered with rhododendrons in flower,
+we had a fine view of Saramettie, with its snow cap.
+
+Next day, we marched over Kachao-phung, 8000 feet high, and encamped
+on its slopes at 7600 feet. So perverse are the ways of the hill-men,
+that the road, a well-used one, was carried within fifty feet of
+the summit, though it would have been easy to cross at a much lower
+level. We encamped in a primeval forest of huge trees, the branches
+of which, moved by the fierce wind that blew all night, waved to and
+fro with such a threatening noise as to preclude sleep for a long time.
+
+On the evening of the 12th, one of our coolies was brought to me,
+who had dislocated his shoulder. We had no doctor of any kind with us,
+and no one who understood how to reduce it. Dun and I tried our utmost,
+and I put the poor fellow under chloroform, to relax the muscles and
+spare him pain, but, alas! with no result. I tried to induce him to go
+to Manipur, and be treated by my native doctor there; but he objected,
+and preferred going to his home; so I gave him a present and let him
+go, and very sorry we were to see him relinquish his only chance
+of getting right again. Every one ought to be taught practically
+to reduce a dislocation; I had often heard the process described,
+but never seen it done, and my lack of experience cost the poor Naga
+the use of his arm. It is one of the saddest parts of one's life
+in the wilds of India to meet cases of sickness and injury without
+the power to give relief. Simple complaints I treated extensively,
+and with great success, but it was grievous to see such suffering in
+more complicated cases, and to be unable to do anything. A skilful and
+sympathetic doctor has a fine field for good work in such regions. A
+sick savage is the most miserable of mortals.
+
+The good points of the Manipuris, as excellent material for
+hardy soldiers, were brought out very prominently on these long
+marches. No men could have borne the fatigue and hardships better or
+more patiently than they did. It quite confirmed me in the opinion
+I had long since formed that, taken every way, the Manipuris were
+superior to any of the hill-tribes around them. I remember that
+when at Jessami, one of the Manipuris, at my suggestion, challenged
+any Naga, who liked, to a wrestling match, none would come forward,
+though the villagers were a fine sturdy set. It was impossible, also,
+to help noticing, as we went along, the very remarkable aptitude the
+Manipuris possess for dealing with hill-tribes. The Burmese tried in
+vain to subdue the Tankhools, and in one case a force of seven hundred
+men, that they sent against them, was entirely annihilated. However,
+as the Manipuris advanced, the different tribes, after one struggle,
+quietly submitted, and on both occasions when I marched through the
+north-eastern Tankhool country, the people were in admirable order,
+and behaved as if they had always been peaceful subjects of Manipur.
+
+Next morning, though the thermometer was at thirty-six degrees,
+the Manipuris felt the cold so severely from the terrible wind
+that had been blowing all night, that they did not attempt to cook
+before marching, but started off and hurried down the hill to get
+to a warmer region. I never knew the hardy fellows do this before,
+and it shows the influence of a piercing wind in making cold felt,
+as I have often seen them quite happy on a still night with the
+thermometer at twenty-six degrees or lower.
+
+Five more marches brought us to Kongal Tannah, where I encamped on the
+ground we occupied in 1881-1882 when I was Boundary Commissioner. On
+our way, we received a visit from Tonghoo, the redoubtable Chussad
+chief, now a peaceful subject of Manipur, a man of the usual Kuki type,
+imperturbable and inscrutable. Next day, I inspected the boundary
+pillars I had set up, and found them intact, a satisfactory proof
+that the settlement was not unacceptable to either Manipur or Burmah.
+
+We marched back by the old route, encamping as we had done more than
+four years before in the deep valleys of the Maglung and Turet. On the
+24th, from the crest of the Yoma range, we saw the valley of Manipur
+once more at our feet, and in the evening encamped at Ingorok. Next
+day, I parted from my friend, I riding into Manipur, and Dun going
+north for a few days' more survey of the country. He rejoined me
+on March 2nd. Thus ended one of the hardest, but, at the same time,
+one of the pleasantest marches I ever made, all the pleasanter for
+the society of such a clever and charming companion. We spent one
+more week together, and then Dun went back to his appointment in the
+Intelligence Department, to my great regret, and I settled down to my
+usual routine work, constantly varied by interesting little episodes.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+    More troubles with Thangal Major--Tit-for-tat--Visit to the Kubo
+    valley--A new Aya Pooiel--Journey to Shillong--War is declared--A
+    message to Kendat, to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents--Anxiety
+    as to their fate--March to Mao.
+
+
+During the spring of 1885, I had constant trouble with Thangal
+Major; the old man was perpetually doing illegal acts. He had lost
+his head during my absence in England, and though treated with every
+courtesy, he greatly resented being called to order. Some Mussulmans
+had complained to Mr. Elliott about the oppression exercised towards
+them, and in my absence Thangal was foolish enough to imprison them. Of
+course, I heard of it, and insisted on their release, and this weakened
+his authority. Again, he, as "Aya Pooiel," i.e. Minister for Burmese
+Affairs, greatly resented our not having settled the Kongal case,
+and insisted on the authors being punished. We were very good friends
+privately, though I always expected further trouble with him. The
+Maharajah's ill health also gave me anxiety, as he was no longer the
+active man he once was, and was daily falling more and more under
+Thangal's influence.
+
+At last matters came to a crisis. On May 23rd, I received a letter from
+the Burmese authorities at Tamu, brought by a deputation reporting that
+some murders had been committed by Manipuri subjects, and the next
+day when the visitors came to see me, they openly accused the Mombee
+Kukis of having done the deed. I felt sure that the outrage had been
+carried out at the instigation of Thangal Major, as a set-off against
+the Kongal case, and I sent for him. He came to see me on May 25th,
+and, when I opened the subject, he assumed rather a jaunty air. I
+spoke very gravely, and told him that it was a very serious business,
+and that an investigation must take place, and that I wished him, as
+Aya Pooiel, to accompany me. He replied in a very unbecoming manner,
+and began to make all sorts of frivolous excuses, the burden of his
+speech being that, as justice had not been done in the Kongal case,
+there was no need to investigate a case brought by the Burmese. I was
+very calm, and remonstrated several times, but seeing that it had no
+effect, I requested him to leave my presence, which he did. I then
+wrote to the Maharajah asking him to appoint Bularam Singh to aid me
+in the investigation, also reporting Thangal's conduct, and saying
+that I could not allow him to attend on me till he had apologised. The
+worst of Thangal's behaviour was, that he spoke in Manipuri, and in
+the presence of the Burmese messengers, who understood it, instead of
+in Hindoostani which no one but myself understood. Thinking carefully
+over the matter, I wrote to the Maharajah on May 26th, requesting
+him to replace Thangal in the Aya Pooielship by another officer,
+suggesting Bularam Singh, as I did not consider it safe to leave him
+in charge of the Burmese frontier.
+
+There was the greatest opposition offered to my request, and the
+Maharajah made every effort to evade it. It was currently stated by
+people in the Court circle that it would be easier to depose the
+Maharajah himself, but I remained firm. Meanwhile, Bularam Singh
+was appointed to accompany me, and, on June 8th, I left for Moreh
+Tannah, near Tamu, halting the first day at Thobal. Before leaving,
+I received an apologetic letter from Thangal, and later he called
+on me, and made an ample apology, speaking very nicely. I accepted
+the apology personally, quite reciprocating his friendly sentiments,
+but told him that, having acted in the way he did, I could not trust
+him as Aya Pooiel.
+
+I reached Moreh Tannah on June 13th, and was visited by some
+Burmese. The next day, I proceeded to the scene of the murder,
+and exhumed two headless bodies, and took evidence regarding the
+raid. Before reaching Manipur, I heard through some Kukis the most
+convincing proofs that the Mombee people had committed the raid, and
+at Thangal Major's instigation. I obtained all the necessary details
+later on, but the Burmese war prevented my undertaking an expedition
+for the release of some Burmese captives who had been carried away
+and sold, though I accomplished it later on.
+
+At Moreh Tannah, I obtained some excellent mangoes, the only ones
+free from insects that I ever saw on the eastern frontier, those in
+Assam and Manipur being so full of them as to be uneatable when ripe,
+though beautiful to look at. Here also I had most unpleasant evidence
+of the existence of a plant that has the smell of decomposed flesh. I
+imagined that a dead body had been buried under the temporary hut I
+lived in, till a Manipuri explained matters to me, and showed me the
+plant in question.
+
+I reached Manipur on June 20th, and a day or two after wrote to the
+Maharajah, calling to mind my letter respecting the Aya Pooielship, and
+again requesting Thangal's removal. The next day the old fellow called,
+and we had a very friendly interview, and I explained my reasons for
+acting as I had done. He seemed convinced, and rose and seized my hand,
+and said, "You are right. I understand thoroughly." He then said he
+would cheerfully submit, and went away in an apparently excellent
+frame of mind. It is said that after this, his son, Lumphél Singh,
+a very bad young man, talked him over and urged him to resist, but,
+anyhow, he soon after went to see the Maharajah, and recanted all he
+had said to me. However, I was determined to persist, and told the
+Maharajah plainly that he must choose between me and Thangal, with the
+result that he consented, and the Aya Pooielship was given to another.
+
+This struggle caused me great regret, as Thangal had many good
+qualities, and but for his having had his own way too much during my
+absence in England, would never have lost his head as he did. However,
+there was one good result, as I established very friendly relations
+with the Burmese authorities, who saw that I wished to be just,
+and this stood me in good stead when the war broke out.
+
+During the whole time that the dispute was going on, I had the support
+of the Jubraj, who said I was in the right, and most people, I believe,
+thought likewise. All the same it was painful to gain a victory over
+one who had worked well with me for years, more especially as I felt
+that the weakness of our own Government in not insisting on justice
+being done in the Kongal case, had given him some justification in
+his own eyes, though this was a plea that I could never admit.
+
+In October 1885, I went to Shillong to see the Acting Chief
+Commissioner, Mr. Ward, and as he was intending to march through
+Manipur on his way to the Naga Hills, I stayed with him, and we all
+left Shillong together on November 4th. We left Cachar on November
+12th, and halted that evening at Jeeree Ghât, I on the Manipuri
+side of the river, the Chief Commissioner and his following on the
+British. A short time before dinner--we were all Mr. Ward's guests--I
+received a note from him, directing my attention to a telegram,
+and asking me to act on it. The telegram was a startling one, and
+was to the effect that war with Burmah was to commence, and that our
+troops would pass the frontier on a certain date; that there were
+nine European and many native British subjects in the employ of the
+Bombay-Burmah Corporation in the Chindwin forests with whom it had
+been impossible to communicate, and to ask me to make every effort
+to let them know the facts, and to do anything I could to assist
+them. The matter was extremely urgent, as, if I remember rightly,
+the 25th was the day for the troops to enter Upper Burmah, and every
+moment was of the utmost importance.
+
+I thought it over for five minutes, and determined on a course of
+action, and set to work at once to follow it out. I knew perfectly
+well that with the frontier and all roads so carefully guarded, as
+I had seen those in the Kubo valley to be, there was absolutely no
+chance of a secret messenger advancing ten miles on Burmese soil,
+and I therefore resolved to send my letter through the Kendat Woon
+(Governor of Kendat), the great Burmese province of which the Kubo
+valley was part. I wrote a letter to the European employés of the
+Bombay-Burmah Corporation, giving the message I was asked to transmit,
+and urging them to make every effort to accept my hospitality and
+protection in Manipur. To this letter I appended Burmese and Manipuri
+translations, and put them in an open envelope addressed in the three
+languages, hoping and believing that, seeing that the contents were
+the same in both languages, which they had the means of understanding,
+the Burmese authorities would, on the principle of the Rosetta stone,
+assume that I had said the same in English.
+
+This done, I enclosed the envelope in a letter to the Kendat Woon, in
+which I told him exactly how matters stood, and that in a short time
+Burmah would be annexed, and urging him, as he valued the goodwill of
+the conquerors, to make every effort to protect and aid the British
+subjects in his province. I asked him to deliver the letter, to which I
+had appended translations that he might read what I said, and to bear
+in mind that any service he might render would be richly rewarded and
+never forgotten, while he might rely on my word as his well-wisher;
+that a terrible punishment would befall any one who injured a hair of
+the head of a British subject. In addition to this, I wrote letters
+to the Burmese authorities at Tamu, with whom I was on friendly terms,
+begging them, as they valued their lives, and my goodwill, to forward
+the letter to the Woon with all possible speed.
+
+This done, I went to dine with the Chief Commissioner, and when he
+asked if I had received his note, I told him I had acted on it. Feeling
+that I had done all that I could for the best, I took no further steps
+at the time than to issue orders to the Manipuri frontier stations,
+to give all aid requisite to fugitives from Burmah, and to make
+arrangements for their being entertained in Manipur, should they
+arrive in my absence.
+
+I heard afterwards that there was great anxiety in Burmah when it was
+known that I had communicated with our isolated countrymen through the
+Burmese authorities, it being regarded as likely to seal their fate.
+
+I marched to Mao on the Naga Hills frontier with the Chief
+Commissioner, and then returned to Manipur, arriving on the 4th,
+and on the 5th heard from Moreh Tannah that a European was being
+kept a prisoner at Kendat. I wrote at once to the Tamu Phoongyee,
+asking him to use his influence to release him, saying that I was in
+a position to march to his aid in case my letter had no effect.
+
+On December 9th, I heard that all the Europeans at Kendat had been
+murdered, the Queen of Burmah's secretary having arrived with one
+hundred regular troops on a steamer and ordered their execution,
+and that forty of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation's elephants and all
+their native followers had been arrested.
+
+On December 10th, the news of the capture of Mandalay arrived. It gave
+immense satisfaction, and it was said that many of the old people,
+who knew what Burmah was, were so pleased that they could not eat
+their dinners. The Jubraj visited me to offer his congratulations,
+and a salute of thirty-one guns was fired.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+    News from Kendat--Mr. Morgan and his people safe--I determine to
+    march to Moreh Tannah--March to Kendat--Arrive in time to save
+    the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents--Visit of the Woon--Visit
+    to the Woon.
+
+
+On December 17th, I at last received a letter from Mr. A. J. Morgan,
+the chief agent of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation at Kendat,
+acknowledging my letter of November 12th. He told me that three
+Europeans, Messrs. Allan, Roberts and Moncur, had been murdered on the
+River Chindwin by the Queen's Secretary; that he and Messrs. Ruckstuhl
+and Bretto had been protected by the Kendat Woon, and four others by
+the Mengin Woon. He said the Chindwin valley was filling with dacoits,
+i.e., brigands, and that their position was very precarious. I at
+once wrote to the Woon thanking him warmly for the protection he
+had accorded to my fellow-subjects, and sent him a pair of handsome
+double-barrelled guns, one of them a rifle, as a present, also five
+hundred rupees, which I asked him to give to Mr. Morgan.
+
+Feeling certain of the dangerous position of the British subjects at
+Kendat, if they were surrounded by disbanded soldiery who had turned
+brigands, I determined to march to the frontier, so as to be ready
+to give aid, if necessary. I accordingly asked the Maharajah to lend
+me 400 Manipuris, and 500 Kukis, and one mountain gun. With these,
+and fifty men of my escort of the 4th Bengal Infantry, under Subadar
+Baluk Ram Chowby, I marched off on December 19th.
+
+My escort consisted of sixty men of all ranks, but I weeded out
+ten as not likely to stand the severe marches we might have to
+undertake. I then paraded the remainder and addressed them, saying
+that any man who felt himself unfit for service might fall out, and I
+should think none the worse of him. All stood fast, and then I said,
+"Now, I will not take you, unless you promise me not to fall sick,
+till you have escorted me back safely to Manipur." The men gave a
+shout of acclamation, and I gave the order to march, and never had I
+better, braver or more devoted men under me, or men who bore hardship
+and want of all the little comforts of life more cheerfully.
+
+We reached Moreh Tannah, where I had intended to halt and watch events,
+on December 23rd, and there I received a letter from Mr. Morgan,
+who described the state of things at Kendat as daily getting worse,
+and expressed his conviction that if the dacoits reached Kendat,
+the Woon would be unable to hold his own; he therefore hoped I might
+be able to afford them the aid they so sorely needed, as, unless a
+force marched to their assistance speedily, their lives would not
+be safe. On hearing this, I determined to march for Kendat at once,
+and by the rapidity of our movements overcome all resistance; indeed,
+not to allow the Burmese time to think of it. Accordingly we marched
+to Tamu, where the authorities at once submitted, and I declared the
+country annexed, and reappointed the old officials, pending further
+orders, promising my protection to all classes, and calling on the
+people to complain at once if any of my followers injured them.
+
+All this done, we marched to Mamo, some miles beyond Tamu, where
+we halted in the rice fields attached to the village which was very
+strongly stockaded. My camp was at once filled with men, women and
+children, all disposed to be friendly and all willing to receive
+little presents. It was a pretty feature of the Kubo valley, as of
+Upper Burmah generally, and as in Assam formerly, that immediately
+on leaving the village cultivation you plunged at once into forest.
+
+My party was not so numerous as I could have wished. The Minister,
+Bularam Singh, accompanied me, but the nine hundred men all told,
+that I had asked for, were not there, and the supply of provisions
+was scanty. I made all my escort take ten days' food per man, with
+orders not to touch it, without my direct permission, and I procured
+supplies wherever I could, as we went along. I also took a large
+supply of money.
+
+As Bularam Singh was holding the appointment formerly held by Thangal,
+he had not the knowledge to help him in all petty details that the
+other would have had. However, realising more keenly than ever from
+my experience at the relief of Kohima, the extreme value of time,
+and of rapid strokes, I pushed on at all hazards, trusting to have
+my numbers made up.
+
+I had a few first-rate Manipuri officers with me, and my old orderlies,
+Sowpa, Thutot, and Sundha. I took my excellent hospital assistant,
+Lachman Parshad, and my Manipuri secretary and interpreter, Chumder
+Singh, and most of my old chuprassies, who were invaluable. My head
+clerk, Rusni Lall Coondoo, was unfortunately on leave, marrying his
+daughter, and I greatly missed him.
+
+On the morning of December 24th, we started from Mamo, determined
+to reach Kendat next day, though the Burmese said it was absolutely
+impossible to do it. I had with me my escort of fifty men of the 4th
+B.I., and between three hundred and four hundred Manipuris, the Kukis
+not having arrived. The old road had been disused, and our path was
+a perfect zigzag. We halted long after sunset at Pendowa on a small
+stream, the Nunparoo. The mountain gun did not arrive, and half our
+force was not up till midnight. When all the coolies had arrived,
+I told them that if we reached Kendat next evening, they should have
+buffalo to eat.
+
+The country through which we had passed was not naturally a difficult
+one, but there had been no attempt to make it good, and in places it
+was very bad, all the more so from the unnecessary number of times that
+we crossed the same river. I was much interested to see large numbers
+of bullock carts in the villages, such not being used in Manipur.
+
+Next morning, we started early, and soon began to ascend the Ungocking
+hills. This seemed endless, one range succeeded another, here and there
+we saw coal cropping out of the hillside. After about 12.30 P.M., the
+path was alternately along the bed of a stream and over high ridges,
+one of those meaningless, winding roads that seem made expressly to
+irritate people with no time to spare. At last, in the far distance,
+we saw a scarped hill, that was said to be close to Kendat, and cheered
+by the sight, we pressed on, but it was hours before we reached the
+goal. About 4 P.M., I met a Burmese, who spoke Hindoostani, and gave
+me a letter from Mr. Morgan, telling me that he and his party were all
+well, and earnestly longing for our arrival. The man told me that he
+was the "Hathée Jemadar," i.e., the man in charge of the elephants,
+and he accompanied us.
+
+At last, just after sunset we reached the Chindwin river, even then,
+in the dry season, six hundred yards wide. We gave a loud cheer and
+hoisted the Union Jack; and the "Hathée Jemadar" went over to tell
+the Europeans we had come to save, of our arrival. All my escort and
+most of the Manipuris marched in with me; every man had done his best
+and hearty were the congratulations that passed between us.
+
+We had marched sixty-five miles over a terribly rough country, the
+last thirty being quite impassable for even laden mules, in thirty
+hours. A havildar of the 4th said, "Sahib, is not our march one of
+the greatest on record?" I told him that it was. It was pleasant to
+think that we had arrived on Christmas Day. How little my children
+in England realised the way I was employed.
+
+In less than an hour Mr. Morgan, who had seen our arrival, came over
+accompanied by Messrs. Ruckstuhl and Bretto, his subordinates, all
+dressed in Burmese costume, everything they had having been plundered
+in the Woon's absence. Mr. Morgan brought over a message from the
+Woon to me, saying that he submitted to my authority, and would come
+over to-morrow, and tender his formal submission.
+
+Next day he appeared with Mr. Morgan and made his submission. He
+was a dignified old man, with a pleasant face expressive of much
+character. I thanked him on behalf of Government for his services in
+protecting British subjects, and told him that, while assuming charge
+of the country on the part of the British Government, I wished him
+to remain in office, and conduct the administration pending definite
+instructions. I told him that I expected him to maintain order,
+and quiet down the country, and promised him any assistance which he
+might require to aid him in the endeavour.
+
+After this, I set to work to secure supplies with Mr. Morgan's aid,
+so as to be ready for any emergency, and then crossed the river and
+called on the Woon and inspected the stockade, a huge enclosure, 420
+yards long and 163 wide, with a wall of solid teak logs, 18 feet high,
+and none less than a foot square, with strong heavy gates. I returned
+to my camp before nightfall, and the mountain gun arrived under the
+escort of Gour Duan Subadar. Next day, I heard that the Mengin Woon
+had absconded, finding his position untenable.
+
+Had I had a trained levy at my disposal, as would have been the case
+had my advice been followed, I could have easily sent a force to
+occupy Mengin, and might indeed have marched to Mandalay. As it was,
+commanding only irregulars, my position was one of daily anxiety.
+
+The site of Kendat was very picturesque, situated on the high left
+bank of the Chindwin, up and down which a view of many miles is
+obtained, the reach being there a long one. The stockade contained
+the greater part of the official residences, and a good proportion of
+the inhabitants, but there were many houses outside, and temples and
+phoongyes' residences. Below the town was a large Manipuri village,
+inhabited by the descendants of captives taken in the war of 1819-25.
+
+In the rainy season, when the Chindwin is at its height, and 1200 yards
+wide, with the long ranges of the Manipuri Hills in the background,
+the view is said to be very beautiful. For many miles round Kendat,
+to the east of the Chindwin, the country is flat, but studded here
+and there with strange-looking hills with scarped sides, that rise
+abruptly out of the plains, calling to mind the hill-forests of Central
+India. Kendat was well supplied with boats, many of them being most
+elaborately carved.
+
+It was a great misfortune that none of the men of my escort understood
+the management of boats, a most useful accomplishment on the eastern
+side of India, where rivers abound, and one in which the men of the
+old Assam regiments used to be proficient.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+    People fairly friendly--Crucifixion--Carelessness of Manipuris--I
+    cross the Chindwin--Recross the Chindwin--Collect provisions--Erect
+    stockades and fortify our position--Revolt at Kendat--We assume
+    the offensive--Capture boats and small stockades--Revolt put
+    down--Woon and Ruckstuhl rescued--Steamers arrive and leave.
+
+
+The Burmese were fairly friendly to us, though they did not display
+any love for the Manipuris, and the latter showed rather too plainly
+that they thought the tables were turned, and that they now had the
+upper hand of the Burmese.
+
+In many of the villages along our line of route in the Kubo valley,
+we had observed crosses ready for the crucifixion of malefactors,
+especially dacoits. These were also to be seen here and there, on
+the banks of the river at Kendat, but the Woon afterwards told me
+that he rarely crucified offenders and disliked employing torture;
+indeed he had the reputation of being a merciful old man. However,
+the people at large seemed quite to approve of strong measures, and
+knowing what Burmese dacoits are capable of, I hardly wonder. After
+I left, the man who introduced himself to me as "Hathée Jemadar"
+incautiously surrendered to some dacoits, who first broke the bones
+of his legs and arms inch by inch, and then ripped him up!
+
+On the 28th December, I crossed the river with my whole force, and
+entrenched myself on the sandbank of the Chindwin. That evening, I
+heard from Mr. Morgan, that there was a strong party opposed to the
+Woon, and greatly dissatisfied with him for having submitted. Troops
+had been expected up the river from the British force at Mandalay, and
+their delay encouraged the Burmese to hold up their heads. Next day,
+December 29th, the air was full of rumours, and some of the Burmese
+Manipuris, I have just alluded to, plied my Manipuris with all sorts
+of stories, of a rising against us, on the part of the Burmese. These
+stories had a great effect on the Manipuris, and they displayed so
+much unsteadiness, and at the same time such gross carelessness,
+that I determined to recross the river. I heard too that six men
+coming to join me, had been killed, and three wounded on the road,
+report said, by Burmese. I laughed at the idea, as I was sure that
+the assailants were wild Chins, as the Burmese would not show their
+hand prematurely. However, the news spread, and served to dishearten
+the men.
+
+On the 30th I transported my whole force to the opposite bank,
+it cost me incredible trouble, and I had to superintend the most
+petty details myself. I sent over a party to construct a stockade
+into which the Manipuris could be penned like a flock of sheep for
+the night and which I could enlarge afterwards, and I insisted on
+the work being finished that day. It was finished, and last of all
+I crossed the river with my escort.
+
+Next day, Mr. Morgan told me that things had quieted down very much
+among the Burmese; we did all in our power to collect provisions, and
+I enlarged the stockade, improving it from day to day, till it at last
+became a commodious and strong defensive building, scientifically
+constructed. I occupied a small stockade on a hillock above it,
+whence I had a good view, and could overlook the Manipuris. I had a
+circle of outlying pickets supplied by the Kuki irregulars with me,
+and these were a perpetual safe-guard against surprise during the
+long dark nights. We cleared the jungle from round our stockade,
+and did all we could to make our position secure.
+
+Still the Manipuris were a constant anxiety, illustrating the
+well-known saying, "Fools rush in, where angels fear to tread." Their
+carelessness was astonishing. I had the utmost difficulty in
+getting them to take the most ordinary precautions. The bravest and
+best-disciplined troops in the world would never think of neglecting
+every rule of warfare in the way that they did. Fire was a constant
+danger, and having no warm clothes, the Manipuris could hardly be
+prevented from lighting fires at night, thereby incurring a double
+danger, viz., that of setting fire to the stockade, also lighting
+up our position and enabling an enemy to fire at us. I was as a rule
+eighteen or nineteen hours on foot out of the twenty-four, and during
+the five or six allotted to sleep, I generally got up three times,
+to see that all was right.
+
+Provisions began to come in, and on the last day of the year, I sent
+off 400 coolies to Moreh Tannah for provisions, so as to reduce the
+useless mouths, and to lessen the danger from fire. I rebuilt all
+the huts of green grass, as less inflammable than dry materials.
+
+On January 1st, evil rumours were again afloat, and I asked the Woon if
+he were sure of his position. He replied that he was, and had perfect
+confidence that he could keep every one in hand. However, I went on
+collecting provisions, and while hoping for the arrival of the troops
+expected up the river, prepared for any eventuality. On January 3rd,
+large supplies of rice came in. The Issekai, an officer holding the
+rank of major, came twice to see me, and all seemed well. Mr. Morgan
+was with me all day helping with the rice sellers, but left about 4
+P.M. About an hour afterwards, he reappeared with Mr. Bretto, saying
+that they had been shut out of the stockade, but that Mr. Ruckstuhl
+was detained there. They suspected a rising throughout the country,
+as a rumour had just been spread that a Royal prince was about to
+arrive at Kendat with 3000 men.
+
+This was bad news, and I begged Messrs. Morgan and Bretto to stay the
+night with me. There was no time to be lost; I felt certain that the
+country had risen, and that in a few hours our communications would
+be cut, so I wrote to Manipur asking the Maharajah to send me 1000
+men under Thangal Major at once to Moreh Tannah, to await events,
+and 500 to join me at Kendat, also a good supply of provisions. I
+telegraphed also to Government saying what had happened, and that
+I had taken every precaution, and that they might rely on my doing
+all that man could. I asked for no help, feeling that, if, with my
+present resources, I could not retrieve my position, I should soon
+be past help. I also wrote a few lines home, explaining matters in
+case I was killed, with a few last words to my children.
+
+These letters I sent off by swift and trusty men well armed, with
+orders to push on with all speed. Having done this, I prepared for
+a life-and-death struggle next day.
+
+As the morning broke and the heavy mist began to rise earlier
+than usual, we speedily saw the changed aspect of affairs. We
+had secured two boats under a guard the night before, but all
+besides had been taken from our side of the river. All the people
+had left a neighbouring village, but just below us we saw one boat
+after another leaving, heavily laden with the inhabitants and their
+portable goods. The opposite sandbank too, was occupied in force by
+the Burmese, who held our former entrenchment, and one or two small
+stockades. By this time also the country in our rear had risen, so
+we were completely cut off. The opposite bank was crowded with large
+boats, giving every opportunity to the enemy to send a strong party
+over to attack us by night, were he so disposed.
+
+Immediate action was necessary, if only to save the British subjects,
+and the faithful Woon who had suffered in our cause. The good old
+Minister, Bularam Singh, quite lost his nerve, and begged and implored
+me to make terms and retreat, as the only means of saving ourselves. I
+told him that my very children and friends would despise me, if I,
+for a moment, contemplated such a course, and that there was nothing
+for it but to fight it out.
+
+"Which man should you respect most?" I said, "one who cringed at
+your feet, or one who boldly struck you?" "The man who struck me," he
+replied. "Exactly so," I said; "and it is the same with the Burmese. I
+intend to strike a hard blow."
+
+I had an ultimatum written in Burmese, demanding the surrender of the
+Woon, and his officers, and of all British subjects within two hours,
+under pain of my attacking the stockade; this I did, to run as little
+risk of injury to the captives, as possible. I had the ultimatum tied
+to a bamboo, and sent in a boat to a shallow part of the river, and I
+called to a Burmese to take it. This was done. I looked at my watch,
+and when the time expired, opened fire on the stockade.
+
+For the first time in my life, I laid a gun. I judged the distance from
+the high bank where we stood, to the great stockade, to be 1250 yards,
+and the first shell went over it. I lessened the range by 50 yards,
+and again fired, and this time struck the stockade fair and well. We
+saw and heard the shell explode, and our men raised a loud shout of
+triumph. This little success gave the Manipuris renewed confidence. I
+lined our bank with picked shots of the 4th B.I., and under cover of
+these and the gun, sent two parties across in the boats, with orders
+to attack and destroy all the small stockades, and to capture some
+boats to convey more of our men across, and to burn all the rest,
+so as to prevent the enemy assuming the offensive.
+
+Mr. Morgan, eager for the fray, went as a volunteer and assumed the
+natural position of leader. We kept up the fight all day. Shot after
+shot struck the great stockade, all the small ones were captured and
+burned, the enemy driven from the shore and every boat within sight
+either brought over to our side, or sent burning down the river.
+
+Meanwhile, the Burmese had not been entirely passive, they had opened
+an artillery fire on us, and one or one-and-a-half-pound shots
+began to fall on our side. Old Bularam Singh walked up and down,
+notwithstanding this, with the greatest indifference, having now
+recovered his spirits, and behaved very well.
+
+By sunset, nothing remained to be captured but the great stockade,
+and many were the volunteers, both Hindoostanis and Manipuris who
+begged to be allowed to cross once more and attack it. However,
+I would not consent, only two men, Messrs. Morgan and Bretto, knew
+all the turns and windings of the place, and one false move might
+convert our success into a disaster. All the same, I felt terribly
+anxious as to the fate of the Woon and of the British subjects.
+
+I went to my hut in the evening, feeling that we had done all we
+could. As I passed through the stockade, I was surprised to see the
+clever way in which the coolies remaining with us had strengthened it,
+by digging deep trenches sufficient to afford a man perfect protection
+against rifle fire, even without the stockade.
+
+I rose early on January 5th, after an anxious night, having given
+orders for a party to be ready to cross the river with me, to attack
+the great stockade; but, just as I left my hut to make a start,
+I was met by Mr. Ruckstuhl with irons on his ankles--he had got rid
+of the connecting bars--who told me that it had been evacuated. The
+facts I learned were as follows.
+
+On the evening of January 3rd, incited by the near approach of three
+thousand men and the promised support of the Tsawbwas of Thoungdoot,
+Wuntha, Kubo, and six other districts, the bad spirits in the town rose
+against the Woon, and put him and his family and chief officials, with
+Mr. Ruckstuhl, in irons. It was only by a mistake that Messrs. Morgan
+and Bretto were shut out of the stockade and not arrested.
+
+When my ultimatum arrived, the Burmese laughed at the idea of my
+doing anything, and when our fire opened on them they were just about
+to crucify the Woon and Ruckstuhl. When, however, our attack began
+to make an impression on them, and shells burst in the stockade,
+especially one in a room where the chief men were deliberating,
+they retreated, leaving their prisoners. Mr. Ruckstuhl had hidden
+under a hedge, and the Woon and his family were taking refuge in a
+Phoongye's house. This was good news and an immense relief to every
+one; we felt we had done our work.
+
+I immediately took a party across the river and rescued the Woon,
+and took possession of the huge stockade, which would have cost us
+many a life to capture, had it been well defended. We took sixteen
+guns and a large number of wall pieces, all said to have been wrested
+from Manipur in former days.
+
+The Woon's house was apparently intact, but empty, and the town
+was deserted. In a house we found a hen on a brood of chickens,
+unmoved apparently by all the firing and commotion. I made over
+the Woon's house to him again, and I established a Manipuri guard
+for his protection. With reference to the guns, I should say that I
+did not take them from the stockade on my first arrival at Kendat,
+not wishing in any way to lower the prestige of the Woon who had
+done us such good service, and who professed himself quite able to
+account for them, and to keep the people in order. As events proved,
+we were quite able to take them when necessary.
+
+Just as we had finished our work, and Mr. Morgan and I were taking
+some food in the afternoon, two steamers came in sight far down the
+Chindwin. These proved to be the party sent to rescue the British
+subjects at Kendat, under Major Campbell, 23rd Madras Infantry;
+and consisted of a company of the Hampshire Regiment and some blue
+jackets, and some of the 23rd Madras Infantry, and great was their
+disappointment to find that the work had been done before they
+arrived. However, had we waited for them, there would have been no
+one to rescue on their arrival.
+
+To my intense surprise, I heard that Kendat was to be abandoned, but
+no arrangements had been made for carrying away the Native British
+subjects. Mr. Morgan would not abandon these and the valuable property
+of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation, and elected together with Mr. Bretto
+to stay with me. I strongly urged Mr. Ruckstuhl (whose brother, one
+of the refugees from Mengin, had been brought up by Major Campbell)
+to leave for Rangoon with the steamers, as I thought, after twice
+narrowly escaping a violent death, he had better run no more risks. He
+took my advice. The steamers left on January 8th.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+    Mischief done by departure of steamers--Determine to establish the
+    Woon at Tamu--The Country quieting down--Recovery of mails--Letter
+    from the Viceroy--Arrive at Manipur--Bad news--I return to
+    Tamu--Night march, to Pot-tha--An engagement--Wounded--Return to
+    Manipur--Farewell--Leave for England.
+
+
+We had gained immense prestige by the vigorous way in which we had
+put down the revolt, and the people from the neighbouring country
+began to come in and make their submission, but the departure of the
+steamers was a great blow to it. Of course, the natives attributed
+it to fear. Had they stayed, all trouble would have been at an end,
+and the country would have quietly settled down. As it was, this
+unfortunate retreat again upset the minds of all.
+
+The Chindwin, and the route to it through Manipur, had not been
+considered when the campaign was decided on. No part of a country
+that it is intended to annex can with safety be neglected, and the
+Chindwin valley was a very important part of Burmah.
+
+As I have said before, a properly organised Manipur Levy would have
+solved all difficulties at the outbreak of war; failing that, a
+force specially devoted to the Chindwin valley, and entering through
+Manipur, and aided by local knowledge acquired during many years
+on that frontier, might have occupied the province of Kendat before
+any time had been given for the spread of lawlessness. It is almost
+incredible that, considering the part taken by Manipur, and troops
+moving through Manipur during the war of 1885-6, showing the immense
+facilities offered by that route, that no inquiry whatever was made
+regarding it before the outbreak of hostilities.
+
+I saw plainly that without the certainty of troops and one steamer at
+least arriving to reinforce us, it would be unwise to attempt to hold
+Kendat so far from our base at Manipur, therefore I made preparations
+for escorting all British subjects and property to Tamu, within
+the Woon's jurisdiction, advising the latter to establish himself
+there for the present, and from that point gradually reconsolidate
+his authority. He greatly approved of the suggestion, and I made
+arrangements with a view to carrying it into effect.
+
+It was not till the 10th of January that any post arrived from
+Manipur. The Kubo valley had risen, it was said, in obedience to
+orders received from the Kulé Tsawbwa and a man called the Lay
+Kahiyine Oke, and it was reported that we had been annihilated;
+but the sight of all the captured guns, which I at once sent to
+Manipur, told the people a different tale, and they soon subsided
+and returned to their allegiance. I sent out a party to attack and
+destroy the house of a hostile chief, east of the Chindwin, and it
+was successfully accomplished.
+
+Several letter bags which had been stolen were now given up, and I
+issued proclamations to all the neighbouring chiefs calling on them
+to remain quiet, and keep their people in order.
+
+Two hundred of the troops I had sent for from Manipur, arrived at
+Kendat, and 300 more I ordered to be stationed at different points
+on the road. The 1000 men under Thangal Major were directed by me
+to return to Manipur. Before leaving Kendat, I sent on the Woon,
+with his family and 250 native British subjects, en route to Tamu,
+with a strong escort. The road had been much improved during my
+occupation of Kendat, and was now passable for lightly laden elephants.
+
+I left some Burmese officials at Kendat with orders to report regularly
+to the Woon, and collect taxes due, and having made all arrangements
+that I could for the peace of the country, I quitted it, with the
+remaining portion of my force, on January 14th, encamping at a place
+called Méjong. We reached Tamu on the 17th, where the Woon was well
+received.
+
+I had written to the Thoungdoot (Sumjok) Tsawbwa, asking him to come
+and see me, but he was nervous, and sent his Minister instead. The
+man arrived on the 19th, with a very civil letter from the Tsawbwa,
+making his submission. I explained to him that I should hold his
+master responsible for the good behaviour of his people, and sent
+him to pay his respects to the Woon, which he did. About this time I
+received some very complimentary telegrams from Government, thanking
+me for what I had done; these being followed by an autograph letter
+from the Viceroy, Lord Dufferin.
+
+Being completely worn out with the work and anxiety I had gone through,
+so much so, that I could not sleep without a dose of bromide of
+potassium, I set off for Manipur, to get a little rest, on the 20th
+of January, and reached it, by forced marches, on the 22nd. Mr. Morgan
+came with me, and my escort followed two days after. The men had kept
+their promise, and not one man had "gone sick" for a day, and they
+had always been ready for work; often, since the outbreak on the 3rd
+of January, living for days on rice fresh cut from the enemy's fields
+by the Manipuris.
+
+I left a strong guard of Manipuris in a stockade at Tamu as a help
+to the Woon, and let the Minister Bularam Singh and all the rest of
+the party return with me.
+
+Before leaving Tamu, I handed over one or two men, supposed to
+be rebels, to the Woon, and gave him authority to execute them,
+should he consider it necessary, as an example, saying, however,
+that he must, in that case shoot, hang, or decapitate, as we could
+not allow painful modes of putting to death.
+
+I found, on arrival at Manipur, that another detachment of the 4th
+B.I. had arrived, and I very soon found use for them.
+
+I had hoped to have had some much-needed rest, but on the 24th I
+received a letter from the Woon telling me that two of the leading
+rebels in the outbreak of the 3rd, who had fled towards Wuntho,
+had returned, and were leading about bands of brigands. I heard from
+another source that the men I had delivered into his hands had been
+released on paying heavy fines, and had joined the rebel leaders. The
+Woon had an ample force at his disposal, but, as I saw that another
+storm was brewing, I sent off the new detachment of the 4th, towards
+Tamu, on the 26th, and followed myself (Mr. Morgan having preceded me)
+on the 28th; and on the 30th we marched into Tamu together.
+
+I met the poor old Woon ten miles within the Manipur frontier; he
+had evidently lost his nerve and had fled, the ill-treatment he had
+undergone, and the narrow escape from crucifixion, were too much for
+him. I at once sent him on to Manipur, with orders that he should be
+my guest, and marched on.
+
+As we crossed the frontier, the Burmese left the jungles where they
+had hidden from the dreaded dacoits, and returned with us to their
+villages. Tamu was quiet, the Manipuri guard had stood firm at their
+posts, and held the stockade intact, a work Manipuris are admirably
+fitted for, and thoroughly to be trusted with. My arrival seemed to
+quiet down the valley for many miles, indeed all the inhabitants for
+miles round were by the next day pursuing their ordinary avocations,
+and the only fear was from the dacoits.
+
+On January 31st, at about 6 P.M., I received a report that a party
+of the enemy had hoisted the white flag (the Burmese Royal Standard),
+and taken up their quarters at Pot-tha, a disaffected village twenty
+miles from Tamu. This was an opportunity not to be lost, and I
+prepared to strike a decisive blow. We left Tamu about midnight,
+the force consisting of myself and Mr. Morgan, fifty of the 4th
+B.I., seventy Manipuris, and fifty Kuki irregulars. We had to march
+in single file through the forest, carrying torches to light us,
+and a most picturesque sight it was, the long line winding in and
+out under the tall trees, which the blaze of the torches lighted up,
+producing a very weird effect. We took with us guides from Tamu, and
+marched in deep silence, every now and then passing a village opening,
+though we generally avoided them, if possible.
+
+At last, just after daybreak, we heard the sound of a musket shot;
+our Shan guides said: "This is the place," and instantly evaporated. I
+can use no other term; I saw them one moment, the next they had gone,
+where I know not. We went on, and after a hundred yards, passed
+fortifications just evacuated, and soon after entered the village,
+the enemy retiring before us without firing a shot; we rushed on,
+and searched the houses. I saw the white standard planted outside a
+large house on a platform; I ran up and seized it, close by was a tree
+called in Bengali, "Poppeya," the papaw, I believe, of the West Indies,
+with a soft trunk. A minute after, while I was looking about to see
+if I could observe any of the enemy, a volley was fired, evidently
+intended for me, the royal standard in my hand making me a conspicuous
+mark. I was not struck (probably just at the moment I moved), but
+the tree was, and fell, cut in two by at least twenty musket balls.
+
+I then saw some of the enemy strongly posted, under a house,
+built like all in those parts on strong posts, affording excellent
+cover. I sprang down from the platform, calling to my scattered men to
+follow. One man was ahead of me, and was shot down mortally wounded;
+another minute, and I myself was struck by a shot on the left temple,
+and almost stunned. I was able to rise, but with the blood streaming
+down, not fit to pursue. I called to Mr. Morgan and asked him to head
+a party of the 4th B.I. and clear the village, which was done with
+great gallantry, the men, when they returned, greatly applauding
+Mr. Morgan's courage and dash. Having driven out the enemy who, we
+subsequently ascertained, lost seven killed and twenty-five wounded,
+we set fire to the village and 10,000 maunds of rice stored there,
+i.e., about 360 tons, which, of course, we could not carry away,
+and marched back to Tamil which we reached about nightfall carrying
+our wounded with us. Besides myself, we had one mortally wounded,
+one severely and one slightly. I was able to march back. We took
+three prisoners and heard that the enemy, who did not stop till he
+had crossed the Chindwin, had a force of 400 to 500 men engaged,
+commanded by Boh Moung Schway Lé.
+
+On February 6th, all the principal chiefs of the Kubo valley came
+in and made their formal submission to me, promising to remain
+quiet and obey the orders of the Tamu Myo Thugee, whom I appointed
+to administer the valley till further orders. Next day, I made them
+all go to the Pagoda, and swear allegiance to the British Government,
+the oath being most solemnly administered by the Phoongyees. I gave
+definite instructions to all, and urged them to keep the peace,
+and buy, sell and cultivate as usual.
+
+I proclaimed the passes into Manipur open to traders, which gave great
+satisfaction to all, and having satisfied myself that everything
+was quiet I set out for Manipur to consult Dr. Eteson, the Deputy
+Surgeon-General, who was passing through, about my wound. I arrived
+by forced marches on February 9th, and found that the sepoy mortally
+wounded on February 1st, had died on the 8th.
+
+Dr. Eteson urged me to go to England on sick leave, and I very
+reluctantly determined to follow his advice. But, before leaving, I
+had the satisfaction of seeing the whole of the Kubo valley in a state
+of profound peace for a month and a half. Provisions were no longer
+a difficulty. They were freely brought in, and the little luxuries
+that Hindoostani troops require over and above what can be bought on
+the spot, were taken down by traders. So great was the energy of the
+latter, that 2000 buffaloes were exported through Manipur to Cachar
+during this short period, and when I finally bade adieu to my friends
+at Tamu, Mr. Morgan and I both expected that war was at an end, and
+that perfect peace would prevail. It was not our fault that it did not.
+
+Let me here offer a tribute to one who stood by me nobly in the hour
+of need, but who, unfortunately, died of cholera at Kulé, after his
+return from well-earned leave in England. Morgan was a thoroughly good
+fellow all round, a devoted servant of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation,
+and one who put their affairs before everything. As gentle and kind
+as he was brave, he was a great favourite with the Burmese, and had
+evidently much influence with them. He was always in favour of mild
+measures, unless strong ones appeared absolutely necessary.
+
+While still in Burmah, I had sent in my despatches to General Sir
+H. Prendergast, K.C.B., who commanded the army of invasion, in which I
+strongly commended to his notice the admirable services of my escort,
+mentioning specially several men whom I thought particularly deserving
+of it, though all had done so well, and shown such devotion to duty
+and soldier-like spirit, that it was a difficult task to select any
+one in particular. General Prendergast forwarded my recommendation
+to the Commander-in-Chief, and it was a great satisfaction to me
+when I heard afterwards that Baluk Ram Chowby, then Subadar Major
+of his Regiment, had received the Order of British India, with the
+title of "Bahadur," and that other decorations and promotions had
+been bestowed. The detachment of the gallant 4th Bengal Infantry,
+took with them, as trophies to their regiment, a standard they had
+captured, and also one of the sixteen guns taken at Kendat.
+
+I left the old Woon at Manipur, having strongly recommended him to the
+favour of Government. He stood by our people in a dark hour, and saved
+them from torture and death. He was of high family, and had fought
+against us in 1852. He had the air of a thorough gentleman, and was,
+with all his family, most amiable in conversation and demeanour.
+
+Before leaving, I paid one last visit to Kang-joop-kool and saw my
+child's grave, [37] and the peaceful scenery and lovely views over
+the hills and the broad valley, thinking of the past and its many
+memories connected with the place. I paid my last visit to the Rajah,
+when I told him that I had strongly urged the restoration to him of
+his old possession, the Kubo valley. I visited all the familiar spots
+round the capital. I said good-bye to old Thangal, Bularam Singh,
+and all my old followers, and, on the 19th of March, bade adieu to
+Manipur, which I felt I had raised out of the mire of a bad reputation.
+
+I left it as it had been of yore, a faithful and devoted, though
+humble, ally of the British Government to whom it had done transcendent
+service. Alas! little did I think of the fate that would befall it
+before a few short years had passed by.
+
+My escort turned out to salute me as I left the Residency gate,
+and I gave them an address, thanking them for their services. Then
+the Subadar Baluk Ram Chowby insisted on their accompanying me for
+some distance. When time for them to return, he halted his party,
+drew them in line by the side of the road, and presented arms, and as
+they did it they gave a loud shout of "Colonel Sahib Bahadûr ke jye,"
+i.e. "Vive Monsieur le Colonel Victorieux;" we have no equivalent for
+it in English. My heart was too heavy to say much; I said a few words,
+and we parted.
+
+As I crossed the summit of the Lai-metol range I gave a last look at
+the valley, and saw it no more.
+
+I passed through Shillong, where I was hospitably entertained by the
+Chief Commissioner, Mr. Ward, and on reaching Calcutta received a
+command to visit Lord Dufferin at Benares. He received me very kindly,
+and under his roof I spent a most enjoyable day. I left Bombay on the
+9th of April, and reached home on the 28th, thus practically finishing
+my active Indian career, after nearly twenty-eight years' service.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+    The Events of 1890 and 1891.
+
+
+When I first began this book it was my intention to have given a
+connected account of the Palace Revolution of September 1890, and
+that of 1891, against the British Government. Being probably the only
+living person in full possession of the whole facts connected with
+the startling events that then took place, and the circumstances that
+led up to them, and having, moreover, a strong conviction that it
+is best for all parties that the truth should be known, I felt that
+a fair and impartial statement could do no harm, and might act as
+a warning. Further reflection has led me to alter my determination,
+and to ask myself the question, "Cui bono?" The Government of India
+has shown no desire to make more disclosures than necessary, and it
+is not for me, a loyal old servant, to lift the veil.
+
+
+        "Let the dead past bury its dead."
+
+
+However much, therefore, I may wish to see the right horse saddled, I
+shall for the present, at any rate, avoid criticism as far as possible,
+and confine myself to a few general remarks.
+
+Nothing that I can say will undo the past, and all that remains is
+to hope for the future.
+
+After I left Manipur fresh disturbances broke out in the Kubo valley,
+where I had left all peaceful, prosperous, and contented, and a
+considerable strain was put on the resources of Manipur. Had I been
+ordered to return I would gladly have done so, but my health was
+too bad to make it advisable for me to volunteer my services. [38]
+I regret that I did not, as I might in that case have again urged
+the claims of Manipur to have the Kubo valley restored to her, as she
+had a right to expect that it would be; substantial hopes having been
+on at least one occasion held out to her, and her many good services
+and constant loyalty entitling her to consideration.
+
+However, it was not to be; and in the summer of 1886 another misfortune
+befell her, in the death of Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. Perhaps,
+like his father, Ghumbeer Singh, he was happy in the hour of his
+death, as he did not live to see the disgrace of his country, and
+the ingratitude of our Government to his family.
+
+Now was the grand opportunity for the Government and an able Political
+Agent to step in and make the many needful reforms, and introduce
+necessary changes, and instil a more modern spirit in keeping with the
+times, into the institutions of the country. Did we take advantage of
+it? Of course we did not; but, true to our happy-go-lucky traditions,
+let one precious opportunity after another pass by unheeded. Year after
+year during my period of office had I struggled hard, and carried
+on a never-ending fight for influence and prestige, with the strong
+and capable old Chandra Kirtee Singh, gaining ground steadily; but
+realising that, while I worked, the full advantage would be reaped
+by that one of my successors who might chance to be in office when
+my old friend closed his eventful life. At such a time, in addition
+to the result of my labours, a weaker occupant of the throne would
+afford many opportunities such as were not vouchsafed to me, and now
+the time had arrived when we might have worked unimpeded for the good
+of all classes.
+
+Soor Chandra Singh, the former Jubraj, or heir apparent, succeeded
+his father, a good, amiable man, with plenty of ability, but very
+weak. He was loyal to the British Government, and had on several
+occasions given strong proof of it, and he was much respected by his
+own people. Had he been taken in hand properly all would have been
+well, but the Government of India seems never to have realised that
+excessive care and caution were necessary. The records of the past
+plainly showed that the appointment of a Political Agent was always
+a difficult one to fill satisfactorily, but no pains seem to have
+been at any time taken to find a suitable man; if one happened to be
+appointed, it was a matter of chance, and the post seems generally
+to have been put up to a kind of Dutch auction. On one occasion I
+believe that an officer, who was at the time doing well, and liked
+the place, was taken away, and another, who did not wish to go,
+sent up, to die within a month of a long-standing complaint. For all
+this, of course the Foreign Office must be held responsible, as it
+had a long traditional knowledge of Manipur; and though its powers
+were delegated to the Chief Commissioner of Assam, it should have
+ascertained that that officer was capable of making a good selection,
+and had an officer under him fit for the appointment. The work may not
+have been of a nature requiring the very highest class of intellect,
+but it certainly did require a rather rare combination of qualities,
+together with one indispensable to make a good officer, namely,
+a real love for the work, the country, and the people. My immediate
+successor had these latter qualities, but he died of wounds received
+within six weeks of my leaving. [39]
+
+It is to be regretted, also, that the Government of India acts so much
+on the principle that the private claims of some of its servants should
+be considered before the claims of the State generally, and the people
+over whom they are put, in particular. It seems to be thought that
+the great object, in many cases, is to secure a certain amount of pay
+to an individual, quite irrespective of his qualifications, rather
+than to seek out an officer in every way competent to administer
+a great province, and satisfy the requirements of its people. I
+say this especially with reference to Assam. Few provinces of India
+require more special qualities in its ruler, containing, as it does,
+many races of different grades of civilisation; the situation being
+further complicated by the presence of a large European population of
+tea-planters. These, by their energy and the judicious application of a
+large amount of capital, have raised it to a great pitch of prosperity,
+and they naturally require to be dealt with in a different way to
+their less civilised native fellow-subjects.
+
+An officer may be an admirable accountant, or very well able to
+decide between two litigants, or, may be, to look after stamps and
+stationery; but without special administrative experience, or those
+abilities which enable a genius to grasp any subject he takes up,
+he cannot be considered fit to be trusted with the government of a
+great and flourishing province. His claims as regards pay should not
+be allowed to weigh at all with the Government of India; it is unjust
+to the people, and would be cheaper to give an enhanced pension than
+ruin a province. Yet it cannot be denied that the considerations
+I have referred to, do prevail, and that the Manipur disaster was,
+in a great measure, due to the system, and that with proper care it
+could never have happened.
+
+When I was in Manipur no European could enter the state without
+obtaining the permission of the Durbar through the Political Agent, and
+the Maharajah, very wisely, did his utmost to discourage such visitors,
+unless they were friends of the latter. Orchid collectors, and such
+like, were rigorously excluded, wisely, again I say, considering the
+havoc wrought by selfish traders with these lovely denizens of the
+forests of Manipur and Burmah, and when the Burmese war broke out,
+very few were those of our countrymen who had visited the interesting
+little state. As for myself I quite sympathised with the Maharajah and
+I even said a word on behalf of the Sungai (swamp deer) peculiar to
+Manipur and Burmah, and advised him to preserve it strictly. I fear it
+must be extinct in Manipur by this time. The Burmese war changed all
+this; troops poured through the country, and European officers were
+constantly passing to and fro, much to the annoyance of the Durbar. Of
+course, a stay-at-home Englishman will hardly understand this, but to
+anyone knowing natives of India well, it is self-evident, a European
+cannot go through a state like Manipur where suspicion reigns rampant,
+and where people are wedded to their own peculiar ways, without causing
+a great deal of trouble. All sorts of things have to be provided for
+him, and though he pays liberally, some one suffers. The presence
+of one or two Europeans constantly moving about would no doubt in
+itself be a source of annoyance to the high officials of Manipur,
+who would always suspect them of making enquiries with a view to an
+unfavourable report to Government. All natives of India are suspicious,
+and this remark applies with tenfold force to Manipuris.
+
+It cannot, I fear, be denied, that as a race we are a little careless
+of the feelings of others. It is possibly due in a great measure
+to our insularity; but, whatever be the cause, it is an undesirable
+quality to possess. With a regiment of Native Infantry stationed at
+Langthabal to support our authority, our prestige ought to have rapidly
+increased; apparently the reverse was the case, and from time to time
+incidents occurred, which indicated how events were drifting. On one
+occasion some sepoys of the Political Agent's escort were hustled
+and beaten by some Manipuris at a public festival, and on another the
+man carrying the Government mail bag between Imphal and Langthabal,
+was stopped and robbed of the mails. Everything seemed to show that
+our position was not what it had been. In former days such things
+could not have happened.
+
+Kotwal Koireng had always been a bad character, and had for years
+been under a cloud. Had I remained in Manipur I should have turned
+him out when the Maharajah his father died, and reported the matter
+to Government. He was allowed to remain, and proved the ruin of
+the state. His blood-thirsty nature soon showed itself, and he
+half-roasted two men after a most cruel flogging, the Maharajah
+was asked to turn him out of the state, and would probably have
+consented, but just at the time a European sergeant shot a cow, the
+sacred animal of the Hindoos, an outrage far exceeding any that our
+imagination can paint, and the Rajah in his wrath flatly refused to
+punish his brother, while such a fearful crime as cow killing, was
+allowed to pass unnoticed. Of course the last was an untoward event,
+that should never have occurred. We ought not to allow uncultured
+Europeans likely to be careless of native feeling and susceptibilities
+to enter a state so full of prejudice and suspicion as Manipur.
+
+Thus events followed one another in rapid succession, signs every
+now and then appearing which showed that all was not as quiet as
+it seemed. I heard from time to time things that made me uneasy,
+as I gathered that Kotwal Koireng, now become Senaputtee or
+Commander-in-Chief, had much power and influence, and I felt sure
+that he would soon make an attempt to oust his brother, the Maharajah.
+
+At last the attempt was made. In September, 1890, the Maharajah Soor
+Chandra Singh was attacked in his palace at night, and driven out. He
+fled to Cachar and having petitioned the Government of India for
+his restoration, proceeded to Calcutta. The case was a simple one,
+a palace revolution had occurred and our nominee whose succession
+and whose throne we had guaranteed, had been deposed. The course to
+be adopted by Government was as clear as the day, Soor Chandra Singh
+should have been restored at once and the usurper severely punished
+for insulting the majesty of the British Government. Nothing of the
+kind was done. It was decided, on what grounds I know not, to break
+our pledged word; the Maharajah was to be exiled with a pittance for
+his support; his stupid boorish brother who had been set up as puppet
+by the Senaputtee was to be Rajah; while the evil genius of Manipur,
+the treacherous Senaputtee, was to be exiled. The Government of India
+then ordered the Chief Commissioner of Assam to proceed to Manipur
+and carry out their decision, including the Senaputtee's arrest.
+
+It is difficult to say which showed the greatest want of wisdom,
+the Government in issuing such an order, or the Chief Commissioner
+in accepting such a mission, quite derogatory to one of such high
+rank. We all know how it ended. The less said about it the better,
+it reflects no credit on us. [40]
+
+With one or two things, however, I am concerned, and one of these
+is the sentence on Thangal Major, or General as he was called; in
+the correspondence usually ignorantly referred to, as "The Thangal
+General," a misnomer, Thangal being a name and not a title. This old
+man seventy-four years of age had long almost retired into private
+life. He was a devoted follower of Soor Chandra Singh, and hated
+the Senaputtee whose evil influence he always feared would wreck
+Manipur. This probably made the latter recall him to public life, so
+as to keep him under his eye; anyhow, he was by force of circumstances
+obliged, however unwillingly, to act as a loyal subject of his own
+de facto chief.
+
+I have said so much about the old man, that his character will be
+well understood. He was a strong, able, unscrupulous man, not likely
+to stick at trifles, and, like most Asiatics of his type, capable
+of anything. This does not, however, mean that he was worse than his
+neighbours, our characters are made by our surroundings, and in Manipur
+the surroundings are not of an elevating nature. Thangal was in many
+ways kind hearted, in others ruthless, and for the moment cruel,
+his wrath flared up and, except when kept aglow for policy's sake,
+soon burned itself out.
+
+When first I heard of the outbreak I made two predictions, both proved
+to be true. One of these was that, whoever was guilty, Thangal Major
+would be accused. I never did think him guilty by premeditation,
+but I knew that, as for so long a time he was the strong head of
+the executive, he was not loved, and that to save the Senaputtee,
+whom I of course at once pitched upon as the "fons et origo" of the
+rebellion, and who like all of the blood royal was looked upon as
+semi-divine, he would be accused. I read the evidence published,
+which I can quite understand appeared conclusive to the tribunal
+before which he was tried; reading between the lines, however, with a
+thorough knowledge of Manipur as I was able to do, it gave me quite a
+different impression. Knowing the old man so intimately as I did, his
+way of talking and his way of acting, I am convinced that he was in no
+way a willing accessory to the rebellion, that he in no way connived
+at the invitation to our officers to enter the palace at night, and
+further that he never suggested or consented to their murder! The
+whole proceeding was so totally opposed to his policy that he would
+never have sanctioned such an act of folly, to say the least. The
+Senaputtee richly deserved all he got and more. An unscrupulous and
+selfish butcher by nature he played his cards badly and when he lost,
+determined to involve his whole family and loyal dependents in the ruin
+which his own insensate folly had brought on him. I quite acknowledge
+old Thangal's many faults, but I also remember his good qualities,
+and shall ever regret that he came to such an untimely end.
+
+As regards the disposition of the throne I have a word to
+say. Recognising as I do the necessity of maintaining the firmness of
+our rule and prestige to the utmost, a rule that is of incalculable
+benefit to millions, I quite approved of a heavy punishment being
+exacted as a terrible warning to all time, when we re-conquered
+Manipur. It cannot be denied that we showed unseemly want of nerve when
+the news of the disaster arrived. There was no necessity to place Assam
+under a military ruler, nor was there any need for such a formidable
+muster of troops, at a vast expenditure of money and suffering, to
+retrieve a disaster brought about by such an extraordinary want of
+courage, nerve, forethought and common-sense. [41] Our position in
+Manipur had never been a dangerous one, and even after the murder
+of the Chief Commissioner's party the troops in the Residency might
+easily have held their own till daybreak, when all opposition would
+have collapsed, and the rebels would have fled, leaving our people
+masters of the situation.
+
+I have expressed my opinion as to the mistake we made in not restoring
+the Rajah before the outbreak of March, and now I ask the question,
+why, after the rebellion was put down, we did not do our best to
+repair the evil by restoring Soor Chandra Singh to his own? He,
+or his infant son, might have been restored, and have been kept in
+a state of tutelage as long as necessary, and good government would
+have been secured and our pledge to Chandra Kirtee Singh have been
+maintained intact. Instead of this, an obscure child, a descendant not
+of Ghumbeer Singh, but of Nur Singh, was selected, and the old line cut
+off from the succession, and yet three generations had been faithful
+to us. Ghumbeer Singh, Chandra Kirtee Singh, and Soor Chandra Singh
+all served us loyally, and yet we suffered the last to die of a broken
+heart in exile. Well might he exclaim, "And is this the reward for so
+many years' service!" For my part I say emphatically, let us beware,
+we have not heard the last of Manipur!
+
+My sense of right and justice make me record facts as they strike me,
+and yet I cannot help acknowledging as I do so, that the Government
+of India is the best government in the world. When has India been
+so governed, and what country in Europe has such an able and just
+administration? Surrounded by difficulties, material, financial and
+political, badgered by ignorant members of the House of Commons,
+for ever asking foolish questions and moving foolish resolutions;
+the stately bureaucracy plods steadily on with one object in view,
+the good of the people. If at times it makes mistakes, who does
+not? The greatest General is he who makes fewest mistakes, and,
+judged by this standard alone, the Government of India has the first
+rank among governing bodies. It has, however, a title to honour which
+no one can assail. It is the only instance in history of a body of
+foreigners who govern an Empire, not for their own benefit, but for
+the benefit of the races committed by Providence to their charge. May
+Providence long watch over it!
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+
+[1] Resolution. Political Department, No. 87, 1872.
+
+[2] Birmingham Daily Post, June 15, 1895.
+
+[3] Printed official reports.
+
+[4] One of the witnesses at the trial of the Regent and Senaputtee of
+Manipur, in 1891, stated that Mr. Quinton was partly induced to enter
+the palace from which he never emerged alive, by the Manipuris saying,
+"Are you not our deity?"--Ed.
+
+[5] The Assam Administration Report of 1877-8 writes of it as
+"notoriously unhealthy, and it had long been proposed to move the
+troops to a higher and less feverish spot."--Ed.
+
+[6] When I first went to Assam almost all elephant-catching was done
+by noosing.
+
+[7] The country bordering on the Bhootan Dooars in the Ringpore
+district.
+
+[8] See subsequent sketch of Naga tribes in Chapter III.
+
+[9] Sir James (then Lieut.) Johnstone headed a party to clear an
+Assamese village from a panther that had killed several natives and was
+terrifying the district. It retreated into a house which he ordered
+to be pulled down, and as his men were thus engaged it sprang from a
+window on to his shoulder. With his other arm--the left--he fired at it
+behind his back and wounded it sufficiently to make it loose its hold,
+and rush off into the jungle, where it was killed in the course of the
+afternoon. His arm was terribly injured, and he always considered that
+he owed complete recovery of the use of it to the kindness and skill
+of an English medical friend who came from a great distance to attend
+him. Every one else who was wounded by the same panther died.--Ed.
+
+[10] Captain Butler was struck by a spear from a Naga ambuscade,
+near the village of Pangti in the Naga Hills on December 25, 1876. He
+died on January 7. He had held the appointment of Political Agent
+for seven years, and was the son of Colonel Butler, the author of
+'Scenes in Assam' and 'A Sketch in Assam,' the earliest accounts of
+that eastern border.--Ed.
+
+[11] "The influence exercised by Colonel McCulloch as a political
+agent at Manipur was most beneficial," wrote the Times, April 1, 1891,
+"and since his time no one has been more successful than Colonel
+Johnstone, who took charge in 1877, and rendered conspicuous service
+by raising the siege of Kohima by the Nagas in 1879."--Ed.
+
+[12] As Assist-sup. of the tributary Mehals, Sir James (then
+Lieutenant) Johnstone endowed schools at Keonjhur and presented the
+Government with some land he had bought for the purpose. When the
+Rajah, during whose minority he had managed the affairs of Keonjhur
+as political officer, came of age, the agency was abolished for
+economy.--Ed.
+
+[13] I rewarded Kurum, and he distinguished himself later on.
+
+[14] The name means beautiful garden.--Ed.
+
+[15] Tannah means outpost.--Ed.
+
+[16] Probably a corruption of Khatyra.
+
+[17] I.e. Unclean.
+
+[18] Mentioned frequently later on. In August, 1891, he was a
+fugitive from the British Government, hiding himself on the Chinese
+frontier.--Ed.
+
+[19] Here a British native regiment was stationed, after Sir
+J. Johnstone's retirement, but some time before the troubles of
+1891.--Ed.
+
+[20] Quoted by kind permission of editor from my article in Nineteenth
+Century.
+
+[21] Quoted by kind permission of editor from my article in Nineteenth
+Century.
+
+[22] It will be seen later on that this rumour was not correct.--Ed.
+
+[23] A different place from Konoma.--Ed.
+
+[24] A Sikh.--Ed.
+
+[25] The Jubraj, who afterwards reigned as the Maharajah Soor Chandra
+Singh, died in exile; Kotwal Koireng and Thangal Major were hanged in
+August, 1891, by order of the sentence passed upon them for resisting
+the British Government.--Ed.
+
+[26] In 1891, the Jubraj, then the ex-Maharajah, brought forward
+this fact in his appeal to the British Government, as a reason for
+his restoration.--Ed.
+
+[27] The savage mode in which the Nagas conduct their warfare is
+vividly described by a correspondent of the Englishman writing from
+Cachar, January 28, 1880, after a raid on the Baladhun Tea Gardens
+by a band of the same tribe as those of Konoma. He ends with "The
+whole was a horribly sickening scene, and a complete wreck; and such
+surely as none but the veriest of devils in human form could have
+perpetrated."--Ed.
+
+[28] The order came in a telegram purporting to be from the Chief
+Commissioner, and by whom really transmitted is a mystery. The
+Deputy-Assistant Quartermaster General's Report of this Naga Hill
+Expedition states, that after Lieutenant-Colonel Johnstone's Kuki
+levies had attacked Phesama, and killed about two hundred of the enemy
+in consequence of the loss of some of their own men from an assault
+from this village, the Manipuri army performed no other operation in
+this war (except as coolies and bringing in supplies, and in this
+respect they were invaluable). But he adds, "Colonel Johnstone,
+it is understood, was anxious to attack Konoma on his own account
+without waiting for General Nation and the troops." Colonel Johnstone
+explained in a memorandum that no arrangements had been made by the
+military authorities for the carriage of the guns, and that up to
+the evening before the attack on Konoma he had received no request
+for coolies, but foreseeing some neglect of this kind he had kept
+over one hundred reliable Manipuris for the work, and without them
+the guns could not have gone into action. As to the rest of his levy,
+they had lost three hundred men by sickness, and like all irregulars,
+had been injured by the long delay and enforced idleness. They had
+also been already fired upon by our troops in mistake for Nagas,
+and he feared some unfortunate complication if he brought them again
+to the front. But one hundred and fifty at the request of General
+Nation were posted in the valley to intercept fugitives, and they did
+what they were told. Another force was also left to help to protect
+the camp at Suchema. Colonel Johnstone therein states that he felt
+confident he could have captured Konoma with his Manipuris alone,
+directly after the relief of Kohima. The Konoma men, in fact, offered
+to submit on harsher terms to themselves to Colonel Johnstone than
+were afterwards wrested from them by General Nation with the loss of
+valuable lives, and at a heavy pecuniary cost.--Ed.
+
+[29] I also heard from an old Mozuma friend, Lotojé, that the enemy
+intended to concentrate all his fire on the officers, so as to
+render the men helpless. I told this to the General and Major Cock,
+and strongly advised them to do as I did, and cover their white
+helmets with blue turbans to render themselves less conspicuous,
+urging the inadvisability of needlessly rendering themselves marks
+for the enemy's fire. The General refused, and Cock said he should do
+as the General did, so I said no more; admiring their dogged courage,
+but wishing that they would take advice.
+
+[30] Sharp stakes of bamboo hardened in the fire.
+
+[31] The official medical report of this campaign gives a deplorable
+account of the sufferings of the wounded, and the gangrene which
+affected the wounds in consequence of the extremely insanitary
+condition of the Naga villages and stockades, where the Naga warriors
+had been congregated for weeks expecting the attack--an additional
+reason why the immediate pursuit into their strongholds which Colonel
+Johnstone had recommended after the relief of Kohima should have been
+carried out--failing the acceptance of the harsh terms of peace. See
+ante.--Ed.
+
+[32] This was the road along which Colonel Johnstone had marched to
+relieve Kohima. The old route from the capital of Manipur to Cachar
+was easy enough in comparison.--Ed.
+
+[33] All wars rest in winter.
+
+[34] Chief Court.
+
+[35] Major Edward Dun died on the 5th of June, 1895.--Ed.
+
+[36] Known as Regent during the recent troubles.
+
+[37] "The Senaputtee seemed determined to wipe away all signs of
+British connection with the State. Not only were the charred remains
+of the Residency still further demolished, but every building in the
+neighbourhood, and the very walls of the compound and garden were
+levelled, and the graves of British officers were desecrated. The
+Kang-joop-kool Sanatorium, twelve miles from the capital, built by
+Sir J. Johnstone, was burnt, and his child's grave dug up."--Times'
+telegram, May 3, 1891.--Ed.
+
+It appears by the official correspondence that the Senaputtee sent
+seven Manipur sepahis to open the child's grave, and scatter the
+remains, out of spite to Sir J. Johnstone, whom he knew had wished him
+to be banished, and who (on account of the Senaputtee's exceptionally
+bad character) would never admit him into the Residency. For this act
+the British military authorities had the sepahis flogged.--Nos. 1-11,
+East India (Manipur) Blue Books.--Ed.
+
+[38] "Oh! for a moment of Colonel Johnstone's presence at such a
+crisis," wrote a British official from Manipur, to the Pioneer, in
+1891. "One strong word with the ominous raising of the forefinger,
+would have paralyzed the treacherous rebel Koireng (Senaputtee)
+from perpetrating this outrage."--Ed.
+
+[39] Major Trotter. He received wounds from an ambuscade, and died
+of their effects, July, 1886.--Ed.
+
+[40] "The general history of the Manipur incident," wrote the Times
+in a leading article, Aug. 14, 1891, "must inspire mingled feelings
+in the breasts of most Englishmen. The policy in which it originated,
+cannot be said to reflect credit on the Government of India, while the
+actual explosion itself was precipitated by a series of blunders which
+have never been explained. There seems to be little doubt that had
+the Government of India made up its mind promptly on the merits of the
+dynastic quarrel between the dethroned Maharajah and his brothers, the
+Senaputtee would hardly have been able to commit the crimes which have
+cost him his life. But for five months the Government of India seemed
+to accept the revolution accomplished last September in the palace of
+Manipur. That revolution was notoriously the work of the Senaputtee,
+although he chose, for his own reasons, to place one of his brothers
+on the throne. The Government did not indeed assent to the change,
+but their local representative does not appear to have taken marked
+steps to express his disapproval. He is said to have tolerated and
+condoned it to this extent, that he kept up friendly relations with the
+new ruler as with the old. On the deplorable mistakes which led up to
+the massacre, and made it possible, it is unnecessary to dwell. They
+are still unaccounted for, and so many of the chief actors in that
+fatal business have perished, that it is more than doubtful whether
+we shall ever know exactly to whom they severally were due."--Ed.
+
+[41] Three columns (one alone numbering 1000 strong), were marched
+at once on Imphal, which was found deserted. The Regent was the
+last of the princes who fled. He released the surviving English
+prisoner, and sent him to the British camp to ask for an armistice;
+but this was refused until he delivered up the Englishmen already
+dead. The Manipuris, then expecting no mercy, opposed the march of
+the troops.--Ed.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga
+Hills, by James Johnstone
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