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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Fly Fishing in Wonderland, by Klahowya
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Fly Fishing in Wonderland
+
+Author: Klahowya
+
+Release Date: August 31, 2011 [EBook #37278]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FLY FISHING IN WONDERLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Emmy and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: FLY FISHING in WONDERLAND Cover]
+
+
+_A HILL VAGABOND_
+
+ _Snakin' wood down the mount'ins,
+ Fishin' the little streams;
+ Smokin' my pipe in the twilight,
+ An' dreamin' over old dreams;_
+
+ _Breathin' the breath o' the cool snows,
+ Sniffin' the scent o' the pine;
+ Watchin' the hurryin' river,
+ An' hearin' the coyotes whine._
+
+ _This is life in the mount'ins,
+ Summer an' winter an' fall,
+ Up to the rainy springtime,
+ When the birds begin to call._
+
+ _Then I fix my rod and tackle,
+ I read, I smoke an' I sing.
+ Glad like the birds to be livin'--
+ Livin' the life of a king!_
+ --_Louise Paley in The Saturday Evening Post._
+
+
+
+ COPYRIGHT, 1910,
+ By O. P. BARNES
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+TO JOHN GILL
+
+ IN WHOSE COMPANIONSHIP I HAVE PASSED MANY DELIGHTFUL
+ DAYS ALONG THE STREAMS AND IN THE WOODS; QUIET
+ ENJOYABLE EVENINGS WATCHING THE ALPENGLOW
+ ILLUMINATE THE SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAINS;
+ AND STORMY NIGHTS BESIDE THE SEA
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+_TABLE OF CONTENTS_
+
+
+ _GOOD FISHING! A FOREWORD_ _6_
+ _IN THE DIM, RED DAWN_ _9_
+ _THE TROUT--NATIVE AND PLANTED_ _14_
+ _LET'S GO A-FISHING!_ _21_
+ _A CHAPTER ON TROUT FLIES_ _28_
+ _GRIZZLY LAKE AND LAKE ROSE_ _35_
+ _A MORNING ON IRON CREEK_ _40_
+ _AN AFTERNOON ON THE FIREHOLE_ _45_
+ _TRAILS FROM YANCEY'S AND OTHER TRAILS_ _51_
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+_GOOD FISHING!_
+
+
+_This little writing has to do with the streams and the trout therein of
+that portion of our country extending southward from the southern
+boundary of Montana to the Teton mountains, and eastward from the
+eastern boundary of Idaho to the Absaroka range. Lying on both sides of
+the continental divide, its surface is veined by the courses of a
+multitude of streams flowing either to the Pacific Ocean or to the Gulf
+of Mexico, while from the southern rim of this realm of wonders the
+waters reach the Gulf of California through the mighty canyons carved by
+the Colorado._
+
+_This region has abundant attractions for seekers of outdoor pleasures,
+and for none more than for the angler. Here, within a space about
+seventy miles square, nature has placed a bewildering diversity of
+rivers, mountains, lakes, canyons, geysers and waterfalls not found
+elsewhere in the world. Fortunately, Congress early reserved the greater
+part of this domain as a public pleasure ground. Under the wise
+administration of government officials the natural beauties are
+protected and made accessible by superb roads. The streams also, many of
+which were barren of fish, have, by successful plantings and intelligent
+protection, become all that the sportsman can wish. The angler who
+wanders through the woods in almost any direction will scarcely fail to
+find some picturesque lake or swift flowing stream where the best of
+sport may be had with the rod._
+
+_Several years ago I made my first visit to this country, and it has
+been my privilege to return thither annually on fishing excursions of
+varying duration. These outings have been so enjoyable and have yielded
+so much pleasure at the time and afterwards, that I should like to sound
+the angler's pack-cry, "Good Fishing!" loudly enough to lead others to
+go also._
+
+_The photographs from which the illustrations were made, except where
+due credit is given to others, were taken with a small hand camera which
+has hung at my belt in crossing mountains and wading streams, and are
+mainly of such scenes as one comes upon in out-of-the-way places while
+following that "most virtuous pastime" of fly-casting._
+
+ _THE AUTHOR._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration: _THE DIM, RED DAWN_]
+
+
+
+
+_IN THE DIM, RED DAWN_
+
+
+[Illustration: _A Leaping Salmon_
+
+_Photo by Hugh M. Smith_]
+
+BEFORE exercising the right of eminent domain over these waters, it may
+be profitable to say a word in explanation of the fact that hardly more
+than a score of years ago many of these beautiful lakes and streams were
+absolutely without fish life. This will aid us in understanding what the
+government has done and is still doing to create an ideal paradise for
+the angler among these mountains and plateaus.
+
+There was a time, and this too in comparatively recent geological eras,
+when the waters of that region now under consideration abounded with
+fish of many species. The clumsy catfish floundered along the shallows
+and reedy bayous in company with the solemn red-horse and a long line of
+other fishes of present and past generations. The lordly salmon found
+ideal spawning grounds in the gravelly beds of the streams draining to
+the westward, and doubtless came hither annually in great numbers. It
+may be that the habit of the Columbia river salmon to return yearly from
+the Pacific and ascend that stream was bred into the species during the
+days when its waters ran in an uninterrupted channel from source to sea.
+It is true that elsewhere salmon manifest this anadromous impulse in as
+marked a degree as in the Columbia and its tributaries, yet, the
+conclusion that these heroic pilgrimages are _habit_ resulting from
+similar movements, accidental at first, but extending over countless
+years, is natural, and probably correct. When one sees these noble fish
+congested by thousands at the foot of some waterfall up which not one in
+a hundred is able to leap, or observes them ascending the brooks in the
+distant mountains where there is not sufficient water to cover them,
+gasping, bleeding, dying, but pushing upward with their last breath, the
+figure of the crusaders in quest of an ancient patrimony arises in the
+mind, so strong is the simile and so active is your sympathy with the
+fish.
+
+[Illustration: _Mammoth Hot Springs_]
+
+In those distant days the altitude of this region was not great, nor was
+the ocean as remote from its borders as now. The forces which already
+had lifted considerable areas above the sea and fashioned them into an
+embryo continent were still at work. The earth-shell, yet soft and
+plastic, was not strong enough to resist the double strain caused by its
+cooling, shrinking outer crust and the expanding, molten interior.
+Volcanic eruptions, magnificent in extent, resulted and continued at
+intervals throughout the Pliocene period. These eruptions were
+accompanied by prodigious outpours of lava that altered the topography
+of the entire mountain section. Nowhere else in all creation has such an
+amount of matter been forced up from the interior of the earth to flow
+in red-hot rivers to the distant seas as in the western part of the
+United States. What a panorama of flame it was, and what a sublime
+impression it must have made on the minds of the primeval men who
+witnessed it from afar as they paddled their canoes over the troubled
+waters that reflected the red-litten heavens beneath them! Is it
+remarkable that the geyser region of the Park is a place of evil repute
+among the savages and a thing to be passed by on the other side, even to
+the present day?
+
+[Illustration: _Detail from Jupiter Terrace_]
+
+When the elemental forces subsided the waters were fishless, and all
+aquatic life had been destroyed in the creation of the glories of the
+Park and its surroundings. Streams that once had their origins in
+sluggish, lily-laden lagoons, now took their sources from the lofty
+continental plateaus. In reaching the lower levels these streams, in
+most instances, fell over cataracts so high as to be impassable to fish,
+thus precluding their being restocked by natural processes. From this
+cause the upper Gardiner, the Gibbon and the Firehole rivers and their
+tributaries--streams oftenest seen by the tourist--were found to contain
+no trout when man entered upon the scene. From a sportsman's viewpoint
+the troutless condition of the very choicest waters was fortunate, as it
+left them free for the planting of such varieties as are best adapted to
+the food and character of each stream.
+
+The blob or miller's thumb existed in the Gibbon river, and perhaps in
+other streams, above the falls. Its presence in such places is due to
+its ability to ascend very precipitous water courses by means of the
+filamentous algae which usually border such torrents. I once discovered
+specimens of this odd fish in the algous growth covering the rocky face
+of the falls of the Des Chutes river, at Tumwater, in the state of
+Washington, and there is little doubt that they do ascend nearly
+vertical walls where the conditions are favorable.
+
+[Illustration: _Tumwater Falls_]
+
+The presence of the red-throat trout of the Snake river in the head
+waters of the Missouri is easily explained by the imperfect character of
+the water-shed between the Snake and Yellowstone rivers. Atlantic Creek,
+tributary to the Yellowstone, and Pacific Creek, tributary to the Snake,
+both rise in the same marshy meadow on the continental divide. From this
+it is argued that, during the sudden melting of heavy snows in early
+times, it was possible for specimens to cross from one side to the
+other, and it is claimed that an interchange of individuals might occur
+by this route at the present day.[A] Certain it is that these courageous
+fish exhibit the same disregard for their lives that is spoken of
+previously as characteristic of their congeners, the salmon. Trout are
+frequently found lying dead on the grass of a pasture or meadow where
+they were stranded the night previous in an attempt to explore a
+rivulet caused by a passing shower. The mortality among fish of this
+species in irrigated districts is alarming. At each opening of the
+sluice gates they go out with the current and perish in the fields.
+Unless there is a more rigid enforcement of the law requiring that the
+opening into the ditches be screened, trout must soon disappear from the
+irrigated sections.
+
+The supposition that these fish have crossed the continental divide, as
+it were, overland, serves the double purpose of explaining the presence
+of the trout, and the absence of the chub, sucker and white-fish of the
+Snake River from Yellowstone Lake. The latter are feeble fish at best,
+and generally display a preference for the quiet waters of the deeper
+pools where they feed near the bottom and with little exertion. Neither
+the chub, sucker nor white-fish possesses enough hardihood to undertake
+so precarious a journey nor sufficient vitality to survive it.
+
+[Illustration: _Gibbon Falls_]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[Footnote A: NOTE--"As already stated, the trout of Yellowstone Lake
+certainly came into the Missouri basin by way of Two-Ocean Pass from the
+Upper Snake River basin. One of the present writers has caught them in
+the very act of going over Two-Ocean Pass from Pacific into Atlantic
+drainage. The trout of the two sides of the pass cannot be separated,
+and constitute a single species."
+ Jordan & Evermann.]
+
+
+
+
+_THE TROUT--NATIVE AND PLANTED_
+
+
+[Illustration: _A Place to be Remembered_]
+
+TO MANY people a trout is merely a _trout_, with no distinction as to
+variety or origin; and some there be who know him only as a _fish_, to
+be eaten without grace and with much gossip. Again, there are those who
+have written at great length of this and that species and sub-species,
+with many words and nice distinctions relative to vomerine teeth,
+branchiostegal rays and other anatomical differences. I would not lead
+you, even if your patience permitted, along the tedious path of the
+scientist, but will follow the middle path and note only such
+differences in the members of this interesting family as may be apparent
+to the unpracticed eye and by which the novice may distinguish between
+the varieties that come to his creel.
+
+In a letter to Doctor David Starr Jordan, in September, 1889, Hon.
+Marshall McDonald, then U. S. Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries, wrote,
+"I have proposed to undertake to stock these waters with different
+species of Salmonidae, reserving a distinct river basin for each." Every
+one will commend the wisdom of the original intent as it existed in the
+mind of Mr. McDonald. It implied that a careful study would be made of
+the waters of each basin to determine the volume and character of the
+current, its temperature, the depth to which it froze during the
+sub-arctic winters, and the kinds and quantities of fish-food found in
+each. With this data well established, and knowing, as fish culturists
+have for centuries, what conditions are favorable to the most desirable
+kinds of trout, there was a field for experimentation and improvement
+probably not existing elsewhere.
+
+[Illustration: _Willow Park Camp_]
+
+[Illustration: _Klahowya_]
+
+The commission began its labors in 1889, and the record for that year
+shows among other plants, the placing of a quantity of Loch Leven trout
+in the Firehole above the Kepler Cascade. The year following nearly ten
+thousand German trout fry were planted in Nez Perce Creek, the principal
+tributary of the Firehole. Either the agents of the commission
+authorized to make these plants were ignorant of the purpose of the
+Commissioner at Washington, or they did not know with what immunity fish
+will pass over the highest falls. Whatever the reason for this error,
+the die is cast, and the only streams that have a single distinct
+variety are the upper Gardiner and its tributaries, where the eastern
+brook trout has the field, or rather the waters, to himself. The first
+attempt to stock any stream was a transfer of the native trout of
+another stream to Lava Creek above the falls. I mention this because the
+presence of the native trout in this locality has led some to believe
+that they were there from the first, and thus constituted an exception
+to the rule that no trout were found in streams above vertical
+waterfalls.
+
+[Illustration: _On the Trail to Grizzly Lake_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Little Firehole_]
+
+Many are confused by the variety of names applied to the native trout of
+the Yellowstone, _Salmo lewisi_. Red-throat trout, cut-throat trout,
+black-spotted trout, mountain trout, Rocky Mountain trout, salmon trout,
+and a host of other less generally known local names have been applied
+to him. This is in a measure due to the widely different localities and
+conditions under which he is found, and to the very close resemblance he
+bears to his first cousins, _Salmo clarkii_, of the streams flowing into
+the Pacific from northern California to southern Alaska; and to _Salmo
+mykiss_ of the Kamchatkan rivers. Perhaps the very abundance of this
+trout has cheapened the estimate in which he is held by some anglers.
+Nevertheless, he is a royal fish. In streams with rapid currents he is
+always a hard fighter, and his meat is high-colored and well-flavored.
+
+The name "black-spotted" trout describes this fish more accurately than
+any other of his cognomens. The spots are carbon-black and have none of
+the vermilion and purple colors that characterize the brook trout. The
+spots are not, however, always uniform in size and number. In some
+instances they are entirely wanting on the anterior part of the body,
+but their absence is not sufficiently important to constitute a varietal
+distinction. The red dash under the throat (inner edge of the mandible)
+from which the names "cut-throat" and "red-throat" are derived, is never
+absent in specimens taken here, and, as no other trout of this locality
+is so marked, it affords the tyro an unfailing means of determining the
+nature of his catch.
+
+[Illustration: _The Path Through the Pines_]
+
+If the eastern brook trout, _Salvelinus fontinalis_, could read and
+understand but a part of the praises that have been sung of him in prose
+and verse through all the years, what a pampered princeling and nuisance
+he would become! But to his credit, he has gone on being the same
+sensible, shrewd, wary and delightful fish, adapting himself to all
+sorts of mountain streams, lakes, ponds and rivers, and always giving
+the largest returns to the angler in the way of health and happiness.
+The literature concerning the methods employed in his capture alone
+would make a library in which we should find the names of soldiers,
+statesmen and sovereigns, and the great of the earth. Aelian, who lived
+in the second century A. D., describes, in his _De Animalium Natura_,
+how the Macedonians took a fish with speckled skin from a certain river
+by means of a hook tied about with red wool, to which were fitted two
+feathers from a cock's wattle. More than four hundred years prior to
+this Theocritus mentioned a method of fishing with a "fallacious bait
+suspended from a rod," but unfortunately failed to tell us how the fly
+was made. If by any chance you have never met the brook trout you may
+know him infallibly from his brethren by the dark olive, worm-like
+lines, technically called "vermiculations," along the back, as he alone
+displays these heraldic markings.
+
+[Illustration: _The Melan Bridge_]
+
+Throughout the northwest the brown trout, _Salmo fario_, is generally
+known as the "von Behr" trout, from the name of the German
+fish-culturist who sent the first shipment of their eggs to this
+country. This fish may be distinguished at sight by the coarse scales
+which give his body a dark grayish appearance, slightly resembling a
+mullet, and by the large dull red spots along the lateral line. There
+are also three beautiful red spots on the adipose fin.
+
+The Loch Leven trout, _Salmo levenensis_, comes from a lake of that name
+in southern Scotland. He is a canny, uncertain fellow, and nothing like
+as hardy as we might expect from his origin. In the Park waters he has
+not justified the fame for gameness which he brings from abroad, but
+there are occasions, particularly in the vicinity of the Lone Star
+geyser, when he comes on with a very pretty rush. In general appearance
+he somewhat resembles the von Behr trout, but is a more graceful and
+finely organized fish than the latter. He is the only trout of this
+locality that has no red on his body, and its absence is sufficient to
+distinguish him from all others.
+
+[Illustration: _Distant View of Mt. Holmes_]
+
+No one can possibly mistake the rainbow trout, _Salmo irideus_, for any
+other species. The large, brilliant spots with which his silvery-bluish
+body is covered, and that filmy iridescence so admired by every one,
+will identify him anywhere. There is, however, a marked difference in
+the brilliance of this iridescence between fish of different ages as
+well as between stream-raised and hatchery-bred specimens, and even
+among fish from the upper and lower courses of the same stream.
+
+[Illustration: _Learning to Cast_]
+
+The question as to which is the more beautiful, the rainbow or the brook
+trout, has often been debated with much feeling by their respective
+champions, and will doubtless remain undecided so long as both may be
+taken from clear-flowing brooks, where sky and landscape blend with the
+soul of man to make him as supremely happy as it is ever the lot of
+mortals to become. For it is the joy within and around you that supplies
+a mingled pleasure far deeper than that afforded by the mere beauty of
+the fish. You will remember that "Doctor Boteler" said of the
+strawberry, "Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but
+doubtless God never did." So, I have said at different times of _both_
+brook and rainbow trout, "Doubtless God could have made a more beautiful
+fish than this, but doubtless God never did."
+
+[Illustration: _Scene on the Gibbon River_]
+
+[Illustration: _Above Kepler Cascade_]
+
+During a recent trip through the Rocky Mountains I remained over night
+in a town of considerable mining importance. In the evening I walked up
+the main street passing an almost unbroken line of saloons, gambling
+houses and dance halls, then crossed the street to return, and found the
+same conditions on that side, except that, if possible, the crowds were
+noisier. Just before reaching the hotel, I came upon a small restaurant
+in the window of which was an aquarium containing a number of rainbow
+trout. One beautiful fish rested quivering, pulsating, resplendent,
+poised apparently in mid air, while the rays from an electric light
+within were so refracted that they formed an aureola about the fish,
+seemingly transfiguring it. I paused long in meditation on the scene,
+till aroused from my revery by the blare of a graphophone from a resort
+across the street. It sang:
+
+ "Last night as I lay sleeping, there came a dream so fair,
+ I stood in old Jerusalem, beside the temple there;
+ I heard the children singing and ever as they sang
+ Methought the voice of angels from heaven in answer rang,
+ Jerusalem, Jerusalem, lift up your gates and sing
+ Hosanna in the highest, hosanna to your king."
+
+I made the sign of Calvary in the vapor on the glass and departed into
+the night pondering of many things.
+
+
+
+
+_LETS GO A-FISHING_
+
+ "No man is in perfect condition to enjoy scenery
+ unless he has a fly-rod in his hand and a fly-hook in
+ his pocket."
+ _Wm. C. Prime_
+
+[Illustration: _Lower Falls of the Yellowstone_]
+
+MANY who know these mountains and valleys best have gained their
+knowledge with a rod in hand, and you will hear these individuals often
+express surprise that a greater number of tourists do not avail
+themselves of the splendid opportunities offered for fishing. In no
+other way can so much pleasure be found on the trip, and by no other
+means can you put yourself so immediately and completely in sympathy
+with the spirit of the wilderness. Besides, it is this doing something
+more than being a mere passenger that gives the real interest and zest
+to existence and that yields the best returns in the memories of
+delightful days. The ladies may be taken along without the least
+inconvenience and to the greater enjoyment of the outing. What if the
+good dame has never seen an artificial fly! Take her anyway, if she will
+go, and we will make her acquainted with streams where she shall have
+moderate success if she but stand in the shadow of the willows and
+tickle the surface of the pool with a single fly. You will feel
+mutually grateful, each for the presence of the other; and, depend upon
+it, it will make the recollection doubly enjoyable.
+
+We shall never know and name all the hot springs and geysers of this
+wonderland, but we may become acquainted with the voice of a stream and
+know it as the speech of a friend. We may establish fairly intimate
+relations with the creatures of the wood and be admitted to some sort of
+brotherhood with them if we conduct ourselves becomingly. The timid
+grouse will acknowledge the caress of our bamboo with an arching of the
+neck, and the beaver will bring for our inspection his freight of willow
+or alder, and will at times swim confidently between our legs when we
+are wading in deep water.
+
+[Illustration: _The Black Giant Geyser_]
+
+The author of "Little Rivers" draws this pleasing picture of the
+delights of fishing: "You never get so close to the birds as when you
+are wading quietly down a little river, casting your fly deftly under
+the branches for the wary trout, but ever on the lookout for all the
+pleasant things that nature has to bestow upon you. Here you shall come
+upon the catbird at her morning bath, and hear her sing, in a clump of
+pussy-willows, that low, tender, confidential song which she keeps for
+the hours of domestic intimacy. The spotted sand-piper will run along
+the stones before you, crying, 'wet-feet, wet-feet!' and bowing and
+teetering in the friendliest manner, as if to show you the best pools."
+Surely, if this invitation move you not, no voice of mine will serve to
+stir your laggard legs.
+
+One should not, however, go to the wilderness and expect it to receive
+him at once with open arms. It was there before him and will remain long
+after he is forgotten. But approach it humbly and its asperities will
+soften and in time become akin to affection. As one looks for the first
+time through the black, basaltic archway at the entrance to the Park,
+the nearby mountains have an air of distance and unfriendliness, nor do
+they speedily assume a more sympathetic relation toward the visitor. A
+region in which the world's formative forces linger ten thousand years
+after they have disappeared elsewhere will make no hasty alliance with
+strangers. The heavy foot of time treads so slowly here that one must
+come often and with observant eye to note the advance from season to
+season and to feel that he has any part or interest in it.
+
+[Illustration: _Park Gateway_]
+
+When we can judge correctly from the height of the up-springing
+vegetation whether the forest fire that blackened this hillside raged
+one year ago or ten; when we have noted that the bowl of this terrace,
+increasing in height by the insensible deposit of carbonate of lime from
+the overflowing waters, appears to outstrip from year to year the growth
+of the neighboring cedars; when these and a multitude of kindred
+phenomena are comprehended, how interested we become!
+
+Nothing said here is intended to encourage undue familiarity with the
+wild game. "Shinny on your own side," is a good motto with any game, and
+more than one can testify of sudden and unexpected trouble brought on
+themselves by meddlesomeness. In following an elk trail through the
+woods one afternoon, I found a pine tree had fallen across the path
+making a barrier about hip-high. While looking about to see whether any
+elk had gone over the trail since the tree fell, and, if so, whether
+they had leaped the barrier or had passed around it by way of the root
+or top, a squirrel with a pine cone in his teeth, sprang on the butt of
+the tree and came jauntily along the log. Some twenty feet away he spied
+me, and suddenly his whole manner and bearing changed. He dropped the
+cone and came on with a bow-legged, swaggering air, the very embodiment
+of insolent proprietorship. The top of my rod extended over the log,
+and as he came under it I gave him a smart switch across the back. Now,
+there had been nothing in my previous acquaintance with squirrels to
+lead me to think them other than most timid animals. But the slight blow
+of the rod-tip transformed this one into a Fury. With a peculiar
+half-bark, half-scream, he leaped at my face and slashed at my neck and
+ears with his powerful jaws. So strong was he that I could not drag him
+loose when his teeth were buried in my coat collar. I finally choked him
+till he loosened his hold and flung him ten feet away. Back he came to
+the attack with the speed of a wild cat. It was either retreat for me or
+death to the squirrel, and I retreated. Never before had I witnessed
+such an exhibition of diabolical malevolence, and, though I have laughed
+over it since, I was too much upset for an hour afterward to see the
+funny side of the encounter.
+
+[Illustration: _Bear Cubs_
+
+_Photo by F. J. Haynes_]
+
+The ways of the wilderness have ever been pleasant to my feet, and
+whether it was taking the ouananiche in Canada or the Beardslee trout in
+the shadow of the Olympics, it has all been good. Without detracting
+from the sport afforded by any other locality, I honestly believe that,
+taking into consideration climate, comfort, scenery, environment, and
+the opportunities for observing wild life, this region has no equal for
+trout fishing under the sun. I am aware that he who praises the fishing
+on any stream will ever have two classes of critics--the unthinking and
+the unsuccessful. To these I would say, "Whether your success shall be
+greater or less than mine will depend upon the conditions of weather and
+stream and on your own skill, and none of these do I control." In that
+splendid book, "Fly-Rods and Fly-Tackle," Mr. Henry P. Wells relates an
+instance in which he and his guide took an angler to a distant lake with
+the certain promise and expectation of fine fishing. After recording the
+keen disappointment he felt that not a single trout would show itself,
+he says, "Then I vowed a vow, which I commend to the careful
+consideration of all anglers, old and new alike--never again, under any
+circumstances, will I recommend any fishing locality in terms
+substantially stronger than these 'At that place I have done so and so;
+under like conditions it is believed that you can repeat it.' We are apt
+to speak of a place and the sport it affords as we found it, whereas
+reflection and experience should teach us that it is seldom exactly the
+same, even for two successive days."
+
+[Illustration: _Elk In Winter_
+
+ _Photo by F. J. Haynes_]
+
+There is a large number of fly-fishermen in the east who sincerely
+believe that the best sport cannot be had in the streams of the Rocky
+Mountains, and this belief has a grain of truth when the fishing is
+confined solely to native trout and to streams of indifferent interest.
+But when the waters flow through such picturesque surroundings as are
+found in the Yellowstone National Park, when from among these waters one
+may select the stream that shall furnish the trout he loves most to
+take, the objection is most fully answered. The writer can attest how
+difficult it was to outgrow the conviction that a certain brook of the
+Alleghanies had no equal, but he now gladly concedes that there are
+streams in the west just as prolific of fish and as pleasant to look
+upon as the one he followed in boyhood. It is proper enough to maintain
+that: "The fields are greenest where our childish feet have strayed,"
+but when we permit a mere sentiment to prevent the fullest enjoyment of
+the later opportunities of life, your beautiful sentiment becomes a
+harmful prejudice.
+
+When the prophet required Naaman to go down and bathe in the river
+Jordan, Naaman was exceeding wroth, and exclaimed, "Are not Abana and
+Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better than any in Israel?" The record hath
+it that Naaman went and bathed in the Jordan, and that his _body_ was
+healed of its _leprosy_ and his _mind_ of its _conceit_. So, when my
+angling friend from New Brunswick inquires whether I have fished the
+Waskahegan or have tried the lower pools of the Assametaquaghan for
+salmon, I am compelled to answer _no_. But there comes a longing to give
+him a day's outing on Hell-Roaring Creek or to see him a-foul of a
+five-pound von Behr trout amid the steam of the Riverside Geyser. The
+streams of Maine and Canada are delightful and possess a charm that
+lingers in the mind like the minor chords of almost forgotten music, but
+they cannot be compared with the full-throated torrents of the
+Absarokas. As well liken a fugue with flute and cymbals to an oratorio
+with bombardon and sky-rockets!
+
+[Illustration: _Having Eaten and Drunk_]
+
+[Illustration: _Who Hath Seen the Beaver Busied?_
+
+ _Photo by Biological Survey_]
+
+ Who hath seen the beaver busied? Who hath watched the black-tail
+ mating?
+ Who hath lain alone to hear the wild-goose cry?
+ Who hath worked the chosen water where the ouananiche is waiting,
+ Or the sea-trout's jumping-crazy for the fly?
+ He must go--go--go--away from here!
+ On the other side the world he's overdue.
+ 'Send your road is clear before you when the old Spring-fret comes
+ o'er you
+ And the Red Gods call for you!
+
+ Do you know the blackened timber--do you know that racing stream
+ With the raw right-angled log-jam at the end:
+ And the bar of sun-warmed shingle where a man may bask and dream
+ To the click of shod canoe poles round the bend?
+ It is there that we are going with our rods and reels and traces,
+ To a silent smoky Indian that we know--
+ To a couch of new-pulled hemlock with the starlight on our faces,
+ For the Red Gods call us out and we must go!
+ The Feet of the Young Men--_Kipling._
+
+
+
+
+_A CHAPTER ON TROUT FLIES_
+
+ "Thyse ben xij. flyes wyth whytch ye shall angle to ye
+ trought and graylling, and dubbe lyke as ye shall now
+ hear me tell."
+ _Dame Juliana Berners._
+
+
+[Illustration: Water is the Master Mason]
+
+FIVE centuries have passed since the dignified and devout prioress of
+St. Albans indited the above sentence, and the tribute to the sterling
+good sense therein is that the growing years have but added to its
+authority. A dozen well selected varieties of flies, dubbe them how ye
+lyke, are well-nigh sufficient for any locality. There may be streams
+that require a wider range of choice, but these are so rare that they
+may safely be considered as exceptional. Not that any particular harm
+has resulted from the unreasonable increase in the number and varieties
+of artificial flies. They amuse and gratify the tyro and in no wise
+disturb the master of the art. But an over-plethoric fly book in the
+possession of a stranger will, with the knowing, place the angling
+ability of the owner under suspicion. Better a thousand-fold, are the
+single half-dozen flies the uses and seasons of which are fully
+understood than a multitude of meaningless creations.
+
+The angler should strive to attain an intelligent understanding of the
+principal features of the artificial fly and how a change in the form
+and color of these features affects the behavior of the fish for which
+he angles. In studying this matter men have gone down in diving suits
+that they might better see the fly as it appeared when presented to the
+fish, and there is nothing in their reports to encourage extremely fine
+niceties in fly-dressing. One may know a great deal of artists and their
+work and yet truly know but little of the value of _art_ itself; or have
+been a great reader of economics, and yet have little practical
+knowledge of that complex product of society called _civilization_. So,
+I had rather possess the knowledge a dear friend of mine has of Dickens,
+Shakespeare, and the Bible alone than to be able to discuss "literature"
+in general before clubs and societies.
+
+Several years of angling experience in the far west have convinced the
+writer that flies of full bodies and positive colors are the most
+killing, and that the palmers are slightly better than the hackles. Of
+the standard patterns of flies the most successful are the coachman,
+royal coachman, black hackle, Parmacheene Belle, with the silver doctor
+for lake fishing, in the order named. The trout here, with the exception
+of those in Lake Yellowstone, are fairly vigorous fighters, and it is
+important that your tackle should be strong and sure rather than
+elegant.
+
+With a view of determining whether it were possible to make a fly that
+would answer nearly all the needs of the mountain fisherman, I began, in
+1897, a series of experiments in fly-tying that continued over a period
+of five years. The result is the production of what is widely known in
+the west as the Pitcher fly. As before indicated, this fly did not
+spring full panoplied into being, but was evolved from standard types by
+gradual modifications. The body is a furnace hackle, tied palmer; tail
+of barred wood-duck feather; wing snow-white, to which is added a blue
+cheek. The name, "Pitcher," was given to it as a compliment to Major
+John Pitcher, who, as acting superintendent of the Yellowstone National
+Park, has done much to improve the quality of the fishing in these
+streams.
+
+From a dozen states anglers have written testifying to the killing
+qualities of the Pitcher Fly, and the extracts following show that its
+success is not confined to any locality nor to any single species of
+trout:
+
+"The Pitcher flies you gave me have aided me in filling my twenty-pound
+basket three times in the last three weeks. Have had the best sport this
+season I have ever enjoyed on the Coeur d'Alene waters, and I can
+truthfully say I owe it all to the Pitcher fly and its designer."
+
+ E. R. DENNY,
+ Wallace, Idaho.
+
+[Illustration: _Following a Little River_]
+
+[Illustration: _At the Head of the Meadow_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Tongue River_
+
+ _Photo by N. H. Darton_]
+
+"One afternoon I had put up my rod and strolled down to the river where
+one of our party was whipping a pool of the Big Hole, trying to induce a
+fish to strike. He said: 'There's an old villain in there; he wants to
+strike but can't make up his mind to do it.' I said: 'I have a fly that
+will make him strike,' and as I had my book in my pocket I handed him a
+No. 8 Pitcher. He made two casts and hooked a beautiful trout, that
+weighed nineteen ounces, down. I regard the Pitcher as the best killer
+in my book."
+
+ J. E. MONROE, Dillon, Montana.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+"I determined to follow the stream up into the mountains, but as I
+neared the woods at the upper end of the meadow I stopped to cast into a
+long, straight reach of the river where the breeze from the ocean was
+rippling the surface of the stream. The grassy bank rose steep behind me
+and only a little fringe of wild roses partly concealed me from the
+water. I cast the Pitcher flies you gave me well out on the rough water,
+allowed them to sink a hand-breadth, and at the first movement of the
+line I saw that heart-expanding flash of a broad silver side gleaming
+from the clear depths. The trout fastened on savagely, and as he was
+coming my way, I assisted his momentum with all the spring of the rod,
+and he came flying out into the clean, fresh grass of the meadow behind
+me. It was a half-pound speckled brook trout. I did not stop to pouch
+him, but cast again. In a moment I was fast to another such, and again I
+sprung him bodily out, glistening like a silver ingot, to where his
+brother lay. In my first twelve casts I took ten such fish, all from ten
+to twelve inches long, mostly without any playing. I took twenty-two
+fine fish without missing one strike, and landed every one safely. I was
+not an hour in taking the lot. Then oddly enough, I whipped the water
+for fifty yards without another rise. Satisfied that the circus was
+over, I climbed up into the meadow and gathered the spoils into my
+basket. Nearly all were brook trout, but two or three silvery salmon
+trout among them had struck quite as gamely. I had such a weight of fish
+as I never took before on the Nekanicum in our most fortunate fishing."
+
+[Illustration: _Talking It Over_]
+
+ * * * * *
+
+[Illustration: _Beaver Dam and Reservoir_]
+
+"Walking back along the trail, I came again to the long reach where I
+had my luck an hour before, and cast again to see if there might be
+another fish. Two silver glints shone up through the waves in the same
+instant. I struck one of the two fish, though I might have had both if I
+had left the flies unmoved the fraction of a second. Three times I
+refused such doublets, for I had not changed an inch of tackle, and
+scarcely even looked the casting line over. It was no time to allow two
+good fish to go raking that populous pool. However I did take chances
+with one doublet. So out of the same lucky spot on my return, I took ten
+more fish each about a foot long. I brought nearly every one flying out
+as I struck him, and I never put such a merciless strain on a rod
+before.
+
+[Illustration: "_That Populous Pool_"
+
+ _Photo by John Gill_]
+
+"I had concluded again that the new tenantry had all been evicted, and
+was casting 'most extended' trying the powers of the rod and reaching, I
+should say, sixty feet out. As the flies came half-way in and I was just
+about snatching them out for a long back cast, the father of the family
+soared after them in a gleaming arc. He missed by not three inches and
+bored his way straight down into the depths of the clear green water.
+'My heart went out to him,' as our friend Wells said, but coaxing was
+in vain. I tried them above and below, sinking the flies deeply, or
+dropping them airily upon the waves, but to no purpose. I had the
+comforting thought that we may pick him up when you are here this
+summer."
+
+ JOHN GILL, Portland, Oregon.
+
+
+_THE BONNY RED HECKLE_
+
+ Away frae the smoke an' the smother,
+ Away frae the crush o' the thrang!
+ Away frae the labour an' pother
+ That have fettered our freedom sae lang!
+ For the May's i' full bloom i' the hedges
+ And the laverock's aloft i' the blue,
+ An' the south wind sings low i' the sedges,
+ By haughs that are silvery wi' dew.
+ Up, angler, off wi' each shackle!
+ Up, gad and gaff, and awa'!
+ Cry 'Hurrah for the canny red heckle,
+ The heckle that tackled them a'!'
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ Then back to the smoke and the smother,
+ The uproar and crush o' the thrang;
+ An' back to the labour and pother,
+ But happy and hearty and strang.
+ Wi' a braw light o' mountain and muirland,
+ Outflashing frae forehead and e'e,
+ Wi' a blessing flung back to the norland,
+ An' a thousand, dear Coquet, to thee!
+ As again we resume the old shackle,
+ Our gad an' our gaff stowed awa',
+ An'--goodbye to the canny 'red heckle,'
+ The heckle that tackled them a'!'
+ --From "The Lay of the Lea." By _Thomas Westwood_.
+
+ NOTE--I am indebted to Mrs. Mary Orvis Marbury, author
+ of "Favorite Flies," for copies of "Hey for Coquet,"
+ and "Farewell to Coquet," from the former of which the
+ foregoing are extracts.
+
+
+
+
+_GRIZZLY LAKE AND LAKE ROSE_
+
+ "And best of all, through twilight's calm
+ The hermit-thrush repeats his psalm."
+ _Henry Van Dyke_
+
+
+[Illustration: _Grizzly Lake_]
+
+GRIZZLY LAKE lies secluded among the timbered hills, four miles
+south--south and west--from Willow Park. The long narrow bed of the lake
+was furrowed by a glacier that once debouched here from the mountains to
+the west, and through the gravel and detritus that surround it the
+melting snows and rain are filtered till the water is fit for the
+Olympian deities. No more profitable place can be found for the angler
+to visit. The lake swarms with brook trout weighing from one to five
+pounds, and in the ice-cold water which is supplied with an abundance of
+insect and crustacean food the fish are in prime condition after July
+first. The best fishing is at the southern end, near where Straight
+Creek enters the lake. A little investigation will discover close at
+hand, several large springs that flow into the lake at this point, and
+here the trout congregate after the spawning season.
+
+[Illustration: _Lake Rose_]
+
+In order to reach this location conveniently, I, early in 1902,
+constructed a light raft of dry pine logs, about six by ten feet, well
+spiked together with drift bolts; since which time other parties have
+added a substantial row boat. Both the boat and the raft may be found at
+the lower end of the lake, just where the trail brings you to it. The
+canvas boat that was set up on the lake earlier, was destroyed the first
+winter by bears, but the boat and raft now there will probably hold
+their own against the beasts of the field for some time. If you use
+either of them you will, of course, return it to the outlet of the lake,
+that he who cometh after may also enjoy.
+
+The route to Grizzly Lake follows very closely the Bannock Indian trail
+from the point where Straight Creek enters the meadows of Willow Park to
+the outlet of the lake. The trail itself is interesting. It was the
+great Indian thoroughfare between Idaho and the Big Horn Basin in
+Wyoming, and was doubtless an ancient one at the time the Romans
+dominated Britain. How plainly the record tells you that it was made by
+an aboriginal people. Up hill and down hill, across marsh or meadow, it
+is always a single trail, trodden into furrow-like distinctness by
+moccasined feet. Nowhere does it permit the going abreast of the beasts
+of draft or burden. At no place does it suggest the side-by-side travel
+of the white man for companionship's sake, nor the hand-in-hand
+converse of mother and child, lover and maid. Ease your pony a moment
+here and dream. Here comes the silent procession on its way to barter in
+the land of the stranger, and here again it will return in the autumn,
+as it has done for a thousand years. In the van are the blanketed
+braves, brimful of in-toeing, painful dignity. Behind these follow the
+ponies drawing the lodge-poles and camp outfit, and then come the squaws
+and the children. Just there is a bend in the trail and the lodge-poles
+have abraded the tree in the angle till it is worn half through. A
+little further on, in an open glade, they camped for the night. Decades
+have come and gone since the last Indian party passed this way, yet a
+cycle hence the trail will be distinct at intervals.
+
+[Illustration: _The Bighorn Range_
+
+ _Photo by N. H. Darton_]
+
+By turning to the west at Winter Creek and passing over the sharp hills
+that border that stream you will come, at the end of a nine-mile
+journey, to Lake Rose. The way is upward through groves of pane,
+thickets of aspen, and steep open glades surrounded by silver fir trees
+that would be the delight of a landscape gardener if he could cause them
+to grow in our city parks as they do here. Elk are everywhere. We ride
+through and around bands of them, male, female, and odd-shapen calves
+with wobbly legs and luminous, questioning eyes. As you pause now and
+then to contemplate some new view of the wilderness unfolding before
+you, the beauty, and freedom and serenity of it are irresistible, and
+you comprehend for the first time the spirit of the Argonauts of '49 and
+the nobility of the paean they chanted to express their exalted
+brotherhood:
+
+ "The days of old,
+ The days of gold,
+ The days of '49."
+
+[Illustration: _Gorge of the Firehole River_]
+
+[Illustration: _A Wooded Islet_]
+
+Suddenly the ground slopes away before us and Lake Rose lies at our
+feet, like an amethyst in a chalice of jade-green onyx. The surroundings
+are picturesque. The mountains descend abruptly to the water's edge and
+the snow never quite disappears from its banks in the longest summer.
+Here in June may be seen that incredible thing, the wild strawberry
+blossoming bravely above the slush-snow that still hides the plant
+below, and the bitter-root putting forth buds in the lee of a snow bank.
+A small stream enters the lake at the northwest, and here the trout are
+most abundant. They rise eagerly to the silver doctor fly, a half dozen
+often breaking at once, any one of which is a weight for a rod. Probably
+not more than a score of anglers have ever cast a fly from this point,
+and a word of caution may for this reason be pardoned. The low
+temperature of the water retards the spawning season till midsummer,
+consequently trout should not be taken here earlier than the third week
+of July. Again, nature has given to every true sportsman the good sense
+to stop when he has enough, and as this unwritten law is practically his
+only restraint, he should feel that its observance is in safe hands and
+that the sportsman's limit will be strictly observed.
+
+[Illustration: _Bear Up!_]
+
+
+
+
+_A MORNING ON IRON CREEK_
+
+
+[Illustration: _The Boy and the von Behr_]
+
+WHEN the snows have disappeared from the valleys and lower hills, and
+the streams have fallen to the level of their banks and their waters
+have lost the brown stain filtered from decaying leaves, and have
+resumed the chatty, confidential tones of summer, then is the time to
+angle for the brown trout. If you would know the exact hour, listen for
+the brigadier bird as he sings morning and evening from a tall tree at
+the mouth of Iron Creek. When you hear his lonely wood-note, joint your
+rod and take the path through the lodge-pole pines that brings you to
+the creek about three hundred yards above its confluence with the river.
+The lush grass of the meadow is ankle-deep with back water from the main
+stream, and Iron Creek and the Little Firehole lie level-lipped and
+currentless. As you look quietly on from the shade of a tree, the water
+breaks into circles in a dozen places, and just at the edge of a bank
+where the sod overhangs the stream there is a mighty splash which is
+repeated several times. Move softly, for the ground is spongy and
+vibrates under a heavy tread sufficiently to warn the fish for many
+yards, then the stream becomes suddenly silent and you will wait long
+for the trout to resume their feeding.
+
+[Illustration: _Rapids of the Gibbon River_]
+
+[Illustration: _Along Iron Creek_]
+
+Stealthily drop the fly just over the edge of the bank, as though some
+witless insect had lost his hold above and fallen!--Right Honorable Dean
+of the Guild, I read the other day an article in which you stated that
+the brown trout never leaps on a slack line. Surely you are right, and
+this is not a trout after all, but a flying fish, for he went down
+stream in three mighty and unexpected leaps that wrecked your theory and
+the top joint of the rod before the line could be retrieved. Then the
+fly comes limply home and nothing remains of the sproat hook but the
+shank.
+
+[Illustration: _Divinity and Infinity_]
+
+These things happened to a friend in less time than is taken in the
+telling. When he had recovered from the shock he remarked, smilingly,
+"That wasn't half bad for a Dutchman, now, was it?" As he is a sensible
+fellow and has no "tendency toward effeminate attenuation" in tackle, he
+graciously accepted and used the proffered cast of Pitcher flies tied on
+number six O'Shaughnessy hooks.
+
+Having ventured this much concerning what the writer considers _proper_
+tackle, he would like to go further and record here his disapproval of
+the individual who turns up his nose at any rod of over five ounces in
+weight, and who tells you with an air from which you are expected to
+infer much, that fly fishing is really the only _honorable_ and
+_gentlemanly_ manner of taking trout. In the language of one who was a
+master of concise and forceful phrase, "This is one of the deplorable
+fishing affectations and pretences which the rank and file of the
+fraternity ought openly to expose and repudiate. Our irritation is
+greatly increased when we recall the fact that every one of these
+super-refined fly-casting dictators, when he fails to allure trout by
+his most scientific casts, will chase grasshoppers to the point of
+profuse perspiration, and turn over logs and stones with feverish
+anxiety in quest of worms and grubs, if haply he can with these save
+himself from empty-handedness."[B] Fly fishing as a recreation justifies
+all good that has been written of it, but it is a tell-tale sport that
+infallibly informs your associates what manner of being you are. It is
+self-purifying like the limpid mountain stream its followers love, and
+no wrong-minded individual nor set of individuals can ever pollute it.
+It is too cosmopolitan a pleasure to belong to the exclusive, and too
+robust in sentiment to be confined to gossamer gut leaders and midge
+hooks.
+
+Much, in fact everything, of your success in taking fish in Iron Creek
+depends on the time of your visit. For three hundred, thirty days of the
+year it is profitless water. Then come the days when the German trout
+begin their annual _auswanderung_. No one need be told that these trout
+do not live in this creek throughout the year. For trout are brook-wise
+or river-wise according as they have been reared, and the habits,
+attitudes and behavior of the one are as different from the other as are
+those of the boys and girls reared in the country from the city-bred. If
+one of these river-bred fish breaks from the hook here he does not
+immediately bore up stream into deep water and disappear beneath a
+sheltering log, bank or submerged tree-top as one would having a claim
+on these waters, but heading down-stream, he stays not for brake and he
+stops not for stone till the river is reached. In his headlong haste to
+escape he reminds one of a country boy going for a doctor.
+
+[Illustration: _Virginia Cascade_]
+
+It is one of the unexplained phenomena of trout life and habit, why
+these fish leap as they do here at this season, when hooked. In no other
+stream and at no other time have I known them to exhibit this quality.
+It is one of those problems of trout activity for which apparently no
+reason can be given further than the one which is said to control the
+fair sex;
+
+ "When she will she will,
+ And you may depend on't;
+ When she won't she won't,
+ And that's an end on't."
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+ "I'm wrapped up in my plaid, and lyin' a' my length on
+ a bit green platform, fit for the fairies' feet, wi' a
+ craig hangin' ower me a thousand feet high, yet bright
+ and balmy a' the way up wi' flowers and briars, and
+ broom and birks, and mosses maist beautiful to behold
+ wi' half shut e'e, and through aneath ane's arm
+ guardin' the face frae the cloudless sunshine; and
+ perhaps a bit bonny butterfly is resting wi' faulded
+ wings on a gowan, no a yard frae your cheek; and noo
+ waukening out o' a simmer dream floats awa' in its
+ wavering beauty, but, as if unwilling to leave its
+ place of mid-day sleep, comin' back and back, and
+ roun' and roun' on this side and that side, and ettlin
+ in its capricious happiness to fasten again on some
+ brighter floweret, till the same breath o' wund that
+ lifts up your hair so refreshingly catches the airy
+ voyager and wafts her away into some other nook of her
+ ephemeral paradise."
+ CHRISTOPHER NORTH.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[Footnote B: Hon. Grover Cleveland in _The Saturday Evening Post_.]
+
+
+
+
+_AN AFTERNOON ON THE FIREHOLE_
+
+
+[Illustration: _First View of the Firehole_]
+
+THE Firehole is a companionable river. Notwithstanding its forbidding
+name, it is pre-eminently a stream for the angler, and always does its
+best to put him at his ease. Like some hospitable manorial lord, it
+comes straight down the highway for a league to greet the stranger and
+to offer him the freedom of its estate. Every fisherman who goes much
+alone along streams will unconsciously associate certain human
+attributes with the qualities of the waters he fishes. It may be a quiet
+charm that lulls to rest, or a bold current that challenges his
+endurance and caution. Between these extremes there is all that infinite
+range of moods and fancies which find their counterpart in the emotions.
+The Firehole possesses many of these qualities in a high degree. It can
+be broad, sunny and genial, or whisper with a scarcely audible lisp over
+languid, trailing beds of conferva; and anon, lead you with tumultuous
+voice between rocky walls where a misstep would be disastrous. The
+unfortunate person who travels in its company for the time required to
+make the tour of the Park and remains indifferent to all phases of its
+many-sidedness, should turn back. Nature will have no communion with
+him, nor will he gain her little secrets and confidences:
+
+ "They're just beyond the skyline,
+ Howe'er so far you cruise."
+
+[Illustration: _Cascades of the Madison_]
+
+[Illustration: _Below the Cascades_]
+
+During the restful period following the noon-hour, when there is a truce
+between fisherman and fish, we lie in the shadow of the pines and read
+"Our Lady's Tumbler," till, in the drowsy mind fancy plays an interlude
+with fact. The ripple of the distant stream becomes the patter of
+priestly feet down dim corridors, and the whisper of the pines the
+rustle of sacerdotal robes. Through half-shut lids we see the clouds
+drift across the slopes of a distant mountain, double as it were, cloud
+and snow bank vying with each other in whiteness.
+
+[Illustration: _Undine Falls_]
+
+Neither the companionship of man nor that of a boisterous stream will
+accord with our present mood. So, with rod in hand, we ford the stream
+above the island and lie down amid the wild flowers in the shadow of the
+western hill. For wild flowers, like patriotism, seemingly reach their
+highest perfection amid conditions of soil and climate that are
+apparently most uncongenial. Here almost in reach of hand, are a variety
+and profusion of flowers rarely found in the most favored spots;
+columbines, gentians, forget-me-nots, asters and larkspurs, are all in
+bloom at the same moment, for the summer is short and nature has trained
+them to thrust forth their leaves beneath the very heel of winter and to
+bear bud, flower, and fruit within the compass of fifty days.
+
+I strongly urge every tourist, angling or otherwise, to carry with him
+both a camera and a herbarium. With these he may preserve invaluable
+records of his outing; one to remind him of the lavish panorama of
+beauty of mountain, lake and waterfall; the other to hold within its
+leaves the delicately colored flowers that delight the senses. A great
+deal is said about the cheap tourist nowadays, with the emphasis so
+placed on the word "cheap" as to create a wrong impression. With the
+manner of your travel, whether in Pullman cars, Concord coaches,
+buck-board wagons, or on foot, this adjective has nothing to do. It
+does, however, describe pretty accurately a quality of mind too often
+found among visitors to such places--a mind that looks only to the
+present and passing events, and that between intervals of
+geyser-chasing, is busied with inconsequential gabble, with no thought
+of selecting the abiding, permanent things as treasures for the
+storehouse of memory.
+
+What fisherman is there who has not in his fly-book a dozen or more
+flies that are perennial reminders of great piscatorial events? And what
+angler is there who does not love to go over them at times, one by one,
+and recall the incidents surrounding the history of each?
+
+ We fondle the flies in our fancy,
+ Selecting a cast that will kill,
+ Then wait till a breeze from the canyon
+ Has rimpled the water so still;--
+ Teal, and Fern, and Beaver,
+ Coachman, and Caddis, and Herl,--
+ And dream that the king of the river
+ Lies under the foam of that swirl.
+
+ There's a feather from far Tioga,
+ And one from the Nepigon,
+ And one from the upper Klamath
+ That tell of battles won--
+ Palmer, and Hackle, and Alder,
+ Claret, and Polka, and Brown,--
+ Each one a treasured memento
+ Of days that have come and gone.
+
+ A joust of hardiest conflict
+ With knight in times of eld
+ Would bring a lesser pleasure
+ Than each of these victories held.
+ Rapids, and foam, and smother,
+ Lunge, and thrust, and leap,--
+ And to know that the barbed feather
+ Is fastened sure and deep.
+
+ Abbey, and Chantry, and Quaker,
+ Dorset and Canada,
+ Premier, Hare's Ear, and Hawthorne,
+ Brown Ant, and Yellow May,
+ Jungle-Cock, Pheasant, and Triumph,
+ Romeyn, and Montreal,
+ Are names that will ever linger
+ In the sunlight of Memory Hall.
+
+The whole field of angling literature contains nothing more exquisite
+than the following description of the last days of Christopher North, as
+written by his daughter:
+
+"It was an affecting sight to see him busy, nay, quite absorbed with the
+fishing tackle scattered about the bed, propped up with pillows--his
+noble head, yet glorious with its flowing locks, carefully combed by
+attentive hands, and falling on each side of his unfaded face. How
+neatly he picked out each elegantly dressed fly from its little bunch,
+drawing it out with trembling hand along the white coverlet, and then
+replacing it in his pocket-book, he would tell ever and anon of the
+streams he used to fish in of old."
+
+ * * * * *
+
+[Illustration: _Picturesque Rocks in River_]
+
+By four o'clock the stream is hidden from the sun and the shadow of the
+wooded summit at your back has crossed the roadway and is climbing the
+heights beyond. As if moved by some signal unheard by the listener, the
+trout begin to feed all along the surface of the water. Leap follows or
+accompanies leap as far as the eye can discern up stream, and down
+stream to where the water breaks to the downpull of the gorge below.
+Select a clear space for your back-cast, wait till a cloud obscures the
+sun. * * * * The trout took the fly from below and with a momentum that
+carried him full-length into the air. But there was no turning of the
+body in the arc that artists love to picture. He dropped straight down
+as he arose and the waters closed over him with a "plop" which you learn
+afterward is characteristic of the rise and strike of the German trout.
+All this may not be observed at first, for if he is one of the big
+fellows, he will cut out some busy-work for you to prevent his going
+under the top of that submerged tree which you had not noticed before.
+As it was, you brought him clear by a scant hand's breadth, only to
+have him dive for another similar one with greater energy.
+
+[Illustration: "_That Delectable Island_"]
+
+Well, it's the same old story over again, but one that never becomes
+altogether tedious to the angler. And the profitable part of this tale
+is that it may be re-enacted here on any summer afternoon.
+
+Some day a canoe will float down the river and land on the gravelly
+beach at the upper end of that delectable island, just where the trees
+are mirrored in the water so picturesquely. Then a tent will be set up
+and two shall possess that island for a whole, happy week. If you are
+coming by that road then, give the "Hallo" of the fellow craft and you
+shall have a loaf and as many fish as you like, and be sent on your way
+as becomes a man and brother.
+
+
+
+
+_TRAILS FROM YANCEY'S AND OTHER TRAILS_
+
+
+[Illustration: _Yancey's_]
+
+WHEN "Uncle" John Yancey, peace to his ashes, selected the site for his
+home and built his cabin under the shelter of the mountain at the north
+end of Pleasant Valley, he displayed that capacity to discover and
+appropriate the best things of the earth which is characteristic of
+American pioneers. Here game was abundant and everything that a remote,
+mountainous country could supply to the frontiersman was at hand. A
+stream of purest water ran by the door, and the open, grassy meadows
+were ample for the supply of hay and pasturage. The scenery is
+delightful, varied and picturesque. No other locality in the Park is
+comparable with it as a place of abode, and there is no pleasanter place
+in which to spend a week than at "Yancey's."
+
+The government has recently completed a road from the canyon of the
+Yellowstone, over Mt. Washburn, down the valley near Yancey's, and
+reaching Mammoth Hot Springs by way of Lava Creek. This has added
+another day to the itinerary of the Park as planned by the
+transportation companies, and one which for scenic interest surpasses
+any other day of the tour. A mere category of the places of interest
+that may be seen in this region would be lengthy.
+
+The lower canyon of the Yellowstone with its overhanging walls five
+hundred feet high, with pillars of columnar basalt reaching more than
+half-way from base to summit, the petrified trees, lofty cliffs, and
+romantic waterfalls, will delight and charm the visitor.
+
+[Illustration: "_Swirl and Sweep of the Water_"]
+
+The angler will find the waters of this region as abundantly supplied
+with trout as any area of like extent anywhere. No amount of fishing
+will ever exhaust the "Big Eddy" of the Yellowstone, and it is worth a
+day's journey to witness the swirl and sweep of the water after it
+emerges from the confining, vertical walls. The velocity of the current
+at this point is very great, and surely, during a flood, attains a speed
+of sixteen or more miles an hour. In the eddy itself the trout rise
+indifferently to the fly, but will come to the red-legged grasshopper as
+long as the supply lasts.
+
+Strange to say, they will not take the grasshopper on the surface of the
+water. Two bright faced boys who had climbed down into the canyon
+watched me whip the pool in every direction for a quarter of an hour
+without taking a single trout. Satisfied that something was wrong, I
+fastened a good sized Rangeley sinker to the leader about a foot above
+the hook and pitched the grasshopper into the buffeting currents. An
+hour later we carried back to camp twenty-five trout which, placed
+endwise, head to tail, measured twenty-five feet on a tape line.
+
+This use of a sinker under the circumstances was not a great discovery,
+but it spelled the difference between success and failure at the time.
+So I have been glad at most times to learn by experience and from others
+the little things that help make a better day's angling.
+
+[Illustration: _The Palisades_]
+
+Once when I knew more about trout fishing than I have ever convinced
+myself that I knew since, I visited a famous stream in a wilderness new
+and unknown to me, fully resolved to show the natives how to do things.
+Near the end of the third day of almost fruitless fishing, the modest
+guide volunteered to take me out that evening, if I cared to go. Of
+course I cared to go, and I shall never forget that moonlight night on
+Beaver Creek. We returned to camp about ten o'clock with twenty-eight
+trout, four of which weighed better than three pounds apiece.
+
+[Illustration: _A Young Corsair of the Plains_]
+
+It may be a severe shock to the sensibilities of the "super-refined
+fly-caster" to suggest so mean a bait as grasshoppers, yet he may obtain
+some comfort, as did one aforetime, by labeling the can in which the
+hoppers are carried:
+
+ "_CALOPTENOUS FEMUR-RUBRUM_."
+
+ * * * * *
+
+Then there are Slough Creek, Hell-Roaring Creek, East Fork, Trout Lake,
+and a host of other streams and lakes that have been favorite resorts
+with anglers for years, and in which may be taken the very leviathans of
+six, seven, eight, and even ten, pounds' weight. He must be difficult to
+please who finds not a day of days among them. Up to the present time
+only the red-throat trout inhabit these waters, but plants of other
+varieties have been made and will doubtless thrive quite as well as the
+native trout.
+
+[Illustration: _Tower Falls_]
+
+Owing probably to the fact that, until recently, the region around Tower
+Creek and Falls was not accessible by roads, this stream received no
+attention from the fish commission till the summer of 1903, when a
+meager plant of 15,000 brook trout fry was made there. The scenery in
+this neighborhood is unsurpassed, and when the stream becomes well
+stocked it will, doubtless, be a favorite resort with anglers who
+delight in mountain fastnesses or in the study of geological records of
+past ages. The drainage basin of Tower Creek coincides with the limits
+of the extinct crater of an ancient volcano. As you stand amid the dark
+forests with which the walls of the crater are clothed and see the
+evidences on all sides of the Titanic forces once at work here, fancy
+has but little effort in picturing something of the tremendous scenes
+once enacted on this spot. Now all is peace and quiet, the quiet of the
+wilderness, which save for the rush of the torrential stream, is
+absolutely noiseless. No song of bird gladdens the darkened forests, and
+in its gloom the wild animals are seldom or never seen. How strikingly
+the silence and wonder of the scene proclaim that nature has formed the
+world for the happiness of man.
+
+Within two hundred yards of the Yellowstone River, Tower Creek passes
+over a fall of singular and romantic beauty. Major Chittenden in his
+book "The Yellowstone" thus describes it: "This waterfall is the most
+beautiful in the Park, if one takes into consideration all its
+surroundings. The fall itself is very graceful in form. The deep
+cavernous basin into which it pours itself is lined with shapely
+evergreen trees, so that the fall is partially screened from view. Above
+it stand those peculiar forms of rock characteristic of that
+locality--detached pinnacles or towers which give rise to the name. The
+lapse of more than thirty years since Lieutenant Doane saw these falls,
+has given us nothing descriptive of them that can compare with the
+simple words of his report penned upon the first inspiration of a new
+discovery: 'Nothing can be more chastely beautiful than this lovely
+cascade, hidden away in the dim light of overshadowing rocks and woods,
+its very voice hushed to a low murmur unheard at the distance of a few
+hundred yards. Thousands might pass by within half a mile and not dream
+of its existence; but once seen, it passes to the list of most pleasant
+memories.'"
+
+[Illustration: _The Shadow of a Cliff_]
+
+If the angler wanders farther into the wilderness than any waters named
+herein would lead him, he will find other streams to bear him company
+amid scenes that will live long in his memory and where the trout are
+ever ready to pay him the compliment of a rise. To the eastward flows
+Shoshone river with its myriad tributaries, teeming with trout and
+draining a region far more rugged and lofty than the Park proper. To the
+south and west are those wonderfully beautiful lakes that form the
+source of the Snake river. Here, early in the season, the great lake or
+Macinac trout, _Salvelinus namaycush_, are occasionally taken with a
+trolling spoon.
+
+From north to south, from the Absaroka Mountains to the Tetons, on both
+sides of the continental divide, this peerless pleasuring-ground is
+netted with a lace-work of streams. Two score lakes and more than one
+hundred, sixty streams are named on the map of this domain which is
+forever secured and safeguarded
+
+ "_FOR THE BENEFIT AND ENJOYMENT OF THE PEOPLE_"
+
+[Illustration: _Good Bye Till Next Year_]
+
+ * * * * *
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+Obvious punctuation errors repaired.
+
+Page 26, "Whpskehegan" changed to "Waskahegan" (fished the Waskahegan)
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Fly Fishing in Wonderland, by Klahowya
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