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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Fly Fishing in Wonderland, by Klahowya
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Fly Fishing in Wonderland
+
+Author: Klahowya
+
+Release Date: August 31, 2011 [EBook #37278]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FLY FISHING IN WONDERLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Emmy and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: FLY FISHING in WONDERLAND Cover]
+
+
+_A HILL VAGABOND_
+
+  _Snakin' wood down the mount'ins,
+    Fishin' the little streams;
+  Smokin' my pipe in the twilight,
+    An' dreamin' over old dreams;_
+
+  _Breathin' the breath o' the cool snows,
+    Sniffin' the scent o' the pine;
+  Watchin' the hurryin' river,
+  An' hearin' the coyotes whine._
+
+  _This is life in the mount'ins,
+    Summer an' winter an' fall,
+  Up to the rainy springtime,
+    When the birds begin to call._
+
+  _Then I fix my rod and tackle,
+    I read, I smoke an' I sing.
+  Glad like the birds to be livin'--
+    Livin' the life of a king!_
+        --_Louise Paley in The Saturday Evening Post._
+
+
+
+  COPYRIGHT, 1910,
+  By O. P. BARNES
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+TO JOHN GILL
+
+  IN WHOSE COMPANIONSHIP I HAVE PASSED MANY DELIGHTFUL
+  DAYS ALONG THE STREAMS AND IN THE WOODS; QUIET
+  ENJOYABLE EVENINGS WATCHING THE ALPENGLOW
+  ILLUMINATE THE SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAINS;
+  AND STORMY NIGHTS BESIDE THE SEA
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+_TABLE OF CONTENTS_
+
+
+    _GOOD FISHING! A FOREWORD_                    _6_
+    _IN THE DIM, RED DAWN_                        _9_
+    _THE TROUT--NATIVE AND PLANTED_              _14_
+    _LET'S GO A-FISHING!_                        _21_
+    _A CHAPTER ON TROUT FLIES_                   _28_
+    _GRIZZLY LAKE AND LAKE ROSE_                 _35_
+    _A MORNING ON IRON CREEK_                    _40_
+    _AN AFTERNOON ON THE FIREHOLE_               _45_
+    _TRAILS FROM YANCEY'S AND OTHER TRAILS_      _51_
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+_GOOD FISHING!_
+
+
+_This little writing has to do with the streams and the trout therein of
+that portion of our country extending southward from the southern
+boundary of Montana to the Teton mountains, and eastward from the
+eastern boundary of Idaho to the Absaroka range. Lying on both sides of
+the continental divide, its surface is veined by the courses of a
+multitude of streams flowing either to the Pacific Ocean or to the Gulf
+of Mexico, while from the southern rim of this realm of wonders the
+waters reach the Gulf of California through the mighty canyons carved by
+the Colorado._
+
+_This region has abundant attractions for seekers of outdoor pleasures,
+and for none more than for the angler. Here, within a space about
+seventy miles square, nature has placed a bewildering diversity of
+rivers, mountains, lakes, canyons, geysers and waterfalls not found
+elsewhere in the world. Fortunately, Congress early reserved the greater
+part of this domain as a public pleasure ground. Under the wise
+administration of government officials the natural beauties are
+protected and made accessible by superb roads. The streams also, many of
+which were barren of fish, have, by successful plantings and intelligent
+protection, become all that the sportsman can wish. The angler who
+wanders through the woods in almost any direction will scarcely fail to
+find some picturesque lake or swift flowing stream where the best of
+sport may be had with the rod._
+
+_Several years ago I made my first visit to this country, and it has
+been my privilege to return thither annually on fishing excursions of
+varying duration. These outings have been so enjoyable and have yielded
+so much pleasure at the time and afterwards, that I should like to sound
+the angler's pack-cry, "Good Fishing!" loudly enough to lead others to
+go also._
+
+_The photographs from which the illustrations were made, except where
+due credit is given to others, were taken with a small hand camera which
+has hung at my belt in crossing mountains and wading streams, and are
+mainly of such scenes as one comes upon in out-of-the-way places while
+following that "most virtuous pastime" of fly-casting._
+
+                                                      _THE AUTHOR._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration: _THE DIM, RED DAWN_]
+
+
+
+
+_IN THE DIM, RED DAWN_
+
+
+[Illustration: _A Leaping Salmon_
+
+_Photo by Hugh M. Smith_]
+
+BEFORE exercising the right of eminent domain over these waters, it may
+be profitable to say a word in explanation of the fact that hardly more
+than a score of years ago many of these beautiful lakes and streams were
+absolutely without fish life. This will aid us in understanding what the
+government has done and is still doing to create an ideal paradise for
+the angler among these mountains and plateaus.
+
+There was a time, and this too in comparatively recent geological eras,
+when the waters of that region now under consideration abounded with
+fish of many species. The clumsy catfish floundered along the shallows
+and reedy bayous in company with the solemn red-horse and a long line of
+other fishes of present and past generations. The lordly salmon found
+ideal spawning grounds in the gravelly beds of the streams draining to
+the westward, and doubtless came hither annually in great numbers. It
+may be that the habit of the Columbia river salmon to return yearly from
+the Pacific and ascend that stream was bred into the species during the
+days when its waters ran in an uninterrupted channel from source to sea.
+It is true that elsewhere salmon manifest this anadromous impulse in as
+marked a degree as in the Columbia and its tributaries, yet, the
+conclusion that these heroic pilgrimages are _habit_ resulting from
+similar movements, accidental at first, but extending over countless
+years, is natural, and probably correct. When one sees these noble fish
+congested by thousands at the foot of some waterfall up which not one in
+a hundred is able to leap, or observes them ascending the brooks in the
+distant mountains where there is not sufficient water to cover them,
+gasping, bleeding, dying, but pushing upward with their last breath, the
+figure of the crusaders in quest of an ancient patrimony arises in the
+mind, so strong is the simile and so active is your sympathy with the
+fish.
+
+[Illustration: _Mammoth Hot Springs_]
+
+In those distant days the altitude of this region was not great, nor was
+the ocean as remote from its borders as now. The forces which already
+had lifted considerable areas above the sea and fashioned them into an
+embryo continent were still at work. The earth-shell, yet soft and
+plastic, was not strong enough to resist the double strain caused by its
+cooling, shrinking outer crust and the expanding, molten interior.
+Volcanic eruptions, magnificent in extent, resulted and continued at
+intervals throughout the Pliocene period. These eruptions were
+accompanied by prodigious outpours of lava that altered the topography
+of the entire mountain section. Nowhere else in all creation has such an
+amount of matter been forced up from the interior of the earth to flow
+in red-hot rivers to the distant seas as in the western part of the
+United States. What a panorama of flame it was, and what a sublime
+impression it must have made on the minds of the primeval men who
+witnessed it from afar as they paddled their canoes over the troubled
+waters that reflected the red-litten heavens beneath them! Is it
+remarkable that the geyser region of the Park is a place of evil repute
+among the savages and a thing to be passed by on the other side, even to
+the present day?
+
+[Illustration: _Detail from Jupiter Terrace_]
+
+When the elemental forces subsided the waters were fishless, and all
+aquatic life had been destroyed in the creation of the glories of the
+Park and its surroundings. Streams that once had their origins in
+sluggish, lily-laden lagoons, now took their sources from the lofty
+continental plateaus. In reaching the lower levels these streams, in
+most instances, fell over cataracts so high as to be impassable to fish,
+thus precluding their being restocked by natural processes. From this
+cause the upper Gardiner, the Gibbon and the Firehole rivers and their
+tributaries--streams oftenest seen by the tourist--were found to contain
+no trout when man entered upon the scene. From a sportsman's viewpoint
+the troutless condition of the very choicest waters was fortunate, as it
+left them free for the planting of such varieties as are best adapted to
+the food and character of each stream.
+
+The blob or miller's thumb existed in the Gibbon river, and perhaps in
+other streams, above the falls. Its presence in such places is due to
+its ability to ascend very precipitous water courses by means of the
+filamentous algae which usually border such torrents. I once discovered
+specimens of this odd fish in the algous growth covering the rocky face
+of the falls of the Des Chutes river, at Tumwater, in the state of
+Washington, and there is little doubt that they do ascend nearly
+vertical walls where the conditions are favorable.
+
+[Illustration: _Tumwater Falls_]
+
+The presence of the red-throat trout of the Snake river in the head
+waters of the Missouri is easily explained by the imperfect character of
+the water-shed between the Snake and Yellowstone rivers. Atlantic Creek,
+tributary to the Yellowstone, and Pacific Creek, tributary to the Snake,
+both rise in the same marshy meadow on the continental divide. From this
+it is argued that, during the sudden melting of heavy snows in early
+times, it was possible for specimens to cross from one side to the
+other, and it is claimed that an interchange of individuals might occur
+by this route at the present day.[A] Certain it is that these courageous
+fish exhibit the same disregard for their lives that is spoken of
+previously as characteristic of their congeners, the salmon. Trout are
+frequently found lying dead on the grass of a pasture or meadow where
+they were stranded the night previous in an attempt to explore a
+rivulet caused by a passing shower. The mortality among fish of this
+species in irrigated districts is alarming. At each opening of the
+sluice gates they go out with the current and perish in the fields.
+Unless there is a more rigid enforcement of the law requiring that the
+opening into the ditches be screened, trout must soon disappear from the
+irrigated sections.
+
+The supposition that these fish have crossed the continental divide, as
+it were, overland, serves the double purpose of explaining the presence
+of the trout, and the absence of the chub, sucker and white-fish of the
+Snake River from Yellowstone Lake. The latter are feeble fish at best,
+and generally display a preference for the quiet waters of the deeper
+pools where they feed near the bottom and with little exertion. Neither
+the chub, sucker nor white-fish possesses enough hardihood to undertake
+so precarious a journey nor sufficient vitality to survive it.
+
+[Illustration: _Gibbon Falls_]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[Footnote A: NOTE--"As already stated, the trout of Yellowstone Lake
+certainly came into the Missouri basin by way of Two-Ocean Pass from the
+Upper Snake River basin. One of the present writers has caught them in
+the very act of going over Two-Ocean Pass from Pacific into Atlantic
+drainage. The trout of the two sides of the pass cannot be separated,
+and constitute a single species."
+                                                   Jordan & Evermann.]
+
+
+
+
+_THE TROUT--NATIVE AND PLANTED_
+
+
+[Illustration: _A Place to be Remembered_]
+
+TO MANY people a trout is merely a _trout_, with no distinction as to
+variety or origin; and some there be who know him only as a _fish_, to
+be eaten without grace and with much gossip. Again, there are those who
+have written at great length of this and that species and sub-species,
+with many words and nice distinctions relative to vomerine teeth,
+branchiostegal rays and other anatomical differences. I would not lead
+you, even if your patience permitted, along the tedious path of the
+scientist, but will follow the middle path and note only such
+differences in the members of this interesting family as may be apparent
+to the unpracticed eye and by which the novice may distinguish between
+the varieties that come to his creel.
+
+In a letter to Doctor David Starr Jordan, in September, 1889, Hon.
+Marshall McDonald, then U. S. Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries, wrote,
+"I have proposed to undertake to stock these waters with different
+species of Salmonidae, reserving a distinct river basin for each." Every
+one will commend the wisdom of the original intent as it existed in the
+mind of Mr. McDonald. It implied that a careful study would be made of
+the waters of each basin to determine the volume and character of the
+current, its temperature, the depth to which it froze during the
+sub-arctic winters, and the kinds and quantities of fish-food found in
+each. With this data well established, and knowing, as fish culturists
+have for centuries, what conditions are favorable to the most desirable
+kinds of trout, there was a field for experimentation and improvement
+probably not existing elsewhere.
+
+[Illustration: _Willow Park Camp_]
+
+[Illustration: _Klahowya_]
+
+The commission began its labors in 1889, and the record for that year
+shows among other plants, the placing of a quantity of Loch Leven trout
+in the Firehole above the Kepler Cascade. The year following nearly ten
+thousand German trout fry were planted in Nez Perce Creek, the principal
+tributary of the Firehole. Either the agents of the commission
+authorized to make these plants were ignorant of the purpose of the
+Commissioner at Washington, or they did not know with what immunity fish
+will pass over the highest falls. Whatever the reason for this error,
+the die is cast, and the only streams that have a single distinct
+variety are the upper Gardiner and its tributaries, where the eastern
+brook trout has the field, or rather the waters, to himself. The first
+attempt to stock any stream was a transfer of the native trout of
+another stream to Lava Creek above the falls. I mention this because the
+presence of the native trout in this locality has led some to believe
+that they were there from the first, and thus constituted an exception
+to the rule that no trout were found in streams above vertical
+waterfalls.
+
+[Illustration: _On the Trail to Grizzly Lake_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Little Firehole_]
+
+Many are confused by the variety of names applied to the native trout of
+the Yellowstone, _Salmo lewisi_. Red-throat trout, cut-throat trout,
+black-spotted trout, mountain trout, Rocky Mountain trout, salmon trout,
+and a host of other less generally known local names have been applied
+to him. This is in a measure due to the widely different localities and
+conditions under which he is found, and to the very close resemblance he
+bears to his first cousins, _Salmo clarkii_, of the streams flowing into
+the Pacific from northern California to southern Alaska; and to _Salmo
+mykiss_ of the Kamchatkan rivers. Perhaps the very abundance of this
+trout has cheapened the estimate in which he is held by some anglers.
+Nevertheless, he is a royal fish. In streams with rapid currents he is
+always a hard fighter, and his meat is high-colored and well-flavored.
+
+The name "black-spotted" trout describes this fish more accurately than
+any other of his cognomens. The spots are carbon-black and have none of
+the vermilion and purple colors that characterize the brook trout. The
+spots are not, however, always uniform in size and number. In some
+instances they are entirely wanting on the anterior part of the body,
+but their absence is not sufficiently important to constitute a varietal
+distinction. The red dash under the throat (inner edge of the mandible)
+from which the names "cut-throat" and "red-throat" are derived, is never
+absent in specimens taken here, and, as no other trout of this locality
+is so marked, it affords the tyro an unfailing means of determining the
+nature of his catch.
+
+[Illustration: _The Path Through the Pines_]
+
+If the eastern brook trout, _Salvelinus fontinalis_, could read and
+understand but a part of the praises that have been sung of him in prose
+and verse through all the years, what a pampered princeling and nuisance
+he would become! But to his credit, he has gone on being the same
+sensible, shrewd, wary and delightful fish, adapting himself to all
+sorts of mountain streams, lakes, ponds and rivers, and always giving
+the largest returns to the angler in the way of health and happiness.
+The literature concerning the methods employed in his capture alone
+would make a library in which we should find the names of soldiers,
+statesmen and sovereigns, and the great of the earth. Aelian, who lived
+in the second century A. D., describes, in his _De Animalium Natura_,
+how the Macedonians took a fish with speckled skin from a certain river
+by means of a hook tied about with red wool, to which were fitted two
+feathers from a cock's wattle. More than four hundred years prior to
+this Theocritus mentioned a method of fishing with a "fallacious bait
+suspended from a rod," but unfortunately failed to tell us how the fly
+was made. If by any chance you have never met the brook trout you may
+know him infallibly from his brethren by the dark olive, worm-like
+lines, technically called "vermiculations," along the back, as he alone
+displays these heraldic markings.
+
+[Illustration: _The Melan Bridge_]
+
+Throughout the northwest the brown trout, _Salmo fario_, is generally
+known as the "von Behr" trout, from the name of the German
+fish-culturist who sent the first shipment of their eggs to this
+country. This fish may be distinguished at sight by the coarse scales
+which give his body a dark grayish appearance, slightly resembling a
+mullet, and by the large dull red spots along the lateral line. There
+are also three beautiful red spots on the adipose fin.
+
+The Loch Leven trout, _Salmo levenensis_, comes from a lake of that name
+in southern Scotland. He is a canny, uncertain fellow, and nothing like
+as hardy as we might expect from his origin. In the Park waters he has
+not justified the fame for gameness which he brings from abroad, but
+there are occasions, particularly in the vicinity of the Lone Star
+geyser, when he comes on with a very pretty rush. In general appearance
+he somewhat resembles the von Behr trout, but is a more graceful and
+finely organized fish than the latter. He is the only trout of this
+locality that has no red on his body, and its absence is sufficient to
+distinguish him from all others.
+
+[Illustration: _Distant View of Mt. Holmes_]
+
+No one can possibly mistake the rainbow trout, _Salmo irideus_, for any
+other species. The large, brilliant spots with which his silvery-bluish
+body is covered, and that filmy iridescence so admired by every one,
+will identify him anywhere. There is, however, a marked difference in
+the brilliance of this iridescence between fish of different ages as
+well as between stream-raised and hatchery-bred specimens, and even
+among fish from the upper and lower courses of the same stream.
+
+[Illustration: _Learning to Cast_]
+
+The question as to which is the more beautiful, the rainbow or the brook
+trout, has often been debated with much feeling by their respective
+champions, and will doubtless remain undecided so long as both may be
+taken from clear-flowing brooks, where sky and landscape blend with the
+soul of man to make him as supremely happy as it is ever the lot of
+mortals to become. For it is the joy within and around you that supplies
+a mingled pleasure far deeper than that afforded by the mere beauty of
+the fish. You will remember that "Doctor Boteler" said of the
+strawberry, "Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but
+doubtless God never did." So, I have said at different times of _both_
+brook and rainbow trout, "Doubtless God could have made a more beautiful
+fish than this, but doubtless God never did."
+
+[Illustration: _Scene on the Gibbon River_]
+
+[Illustration: _Above Kepler Cascade_]
+
+During a recent trip through the Rocky Mountains I remained over night
+in a town of considerable mining importance. In the evening I walked up
+the main street passing an almost unbroken line of saloons, gambling
+houses and dance halls, then crossed the street to return, and found the
+same conditions on that side, except that, if possible, the crowds were
+noisier. Just before reaching the hotel, I came upon a small restaurant
+in the window of which was an aquarium containing a number of rainbow
+trout. One beautiful fish rested quivering, pulsating, resplendent,
+poised apparently in mid air, while the rays from an electric light
+within were so refracted that they formed an aureola about the fish,
+seemingly transfiguring it. I paused long in meditation on the scene,
+till aroused from my revery by the blare of a graphophone from a resort
+across the street. It sang:
+
+  "Last night as I lay sleeping, there came a dream so fair,
+   I stood in old Jerusalem, beside the temple there;
+   I heard the children singing and ever as they sang
+   Methought the voice of angels from heaven in answer rang,
+       Jerusalem, Jerusalem, lift up your gates and sing
+       Hosanna in the highest, hosanna to your king."
+
+I made the sign of Calvary in the vapor on the glass and departed into
+the night pondering of many things.
+
+
+
+
+_LETS GO A-FISHING_
+
+      "No man is in perfect condition to enjoy scenery
+      unless he has a fly-rod in his hand and a fly-hook in
+      his pocket."
+                                             _Wm. C. Prime_
+
+[Illustration: _Lower Falls of the Yellowstone_]
+
+MANY who know these mountains and valleys best have gained their
+knowledge with a rod in hand, and you will hear these individuals often
+express surprise that a greater number of tourists do not avail
+themselves of the splendid opportunities offered for fishing. In no
+other way can so much pleasure be found on the trip, and by no other
+means can you put yourself so immediately and completely in sympathy
+with the spirit of the wilderness. Besides, it is this doing something
+more than being a mere passenger that gives the real interest and zest
+to existence and that yields the best returns in the memories of
+delightful days. The ladies may be taken along without the least
+inconvenience and to the greater enjoyment of the outing. What if the
+good dame has never seen an artificial fly! Take her anyway, if she will
+go, and we will make her acquainted with streams where she shall have
+moderate success if she but stand in the shadow of the willows and
+tickle the surface of the pool with a single fly. You will feel
+mutually grateful, each for the presence of the other; and, depend upon
+it, it will make the recollection doubly enjoyable.
+
+We shall never know and name all the hot springs and geysers of this
+wonderland, but we may become acquainted with the voice of a stream and
+know it as the speech of a friend. We may establish fairly intimate
+relations with the creatures of the wood and be admitted to some sort of
+brotherhood with them if we conduct ourselves becomingly. The timid
+grouse will acknowledge the caress of our bamboo with an arching of the
+neck, and the beaver will bring for our inspection his freight of willow
+or alder, and will at times swim confidently between our legs when we
+are wading in deep water.
+
+[Illustration: _The Black Giant Geyser_]
+
+The author of "Little Rivers" draws this pleasing picture of the
+delights of fishing: "You never get so close to the birds as when you
+are wading quietly down a little river, casting your fly deftly under
+the branches for the wary trout, but ever on the lookout for all the
+pleasant things that nature has to bestow upon you. Here you shall come
+upon the catbird at her morning bath, and hear her sing, in a clump of
+pussy-willows, that low, tender, confidential song which she keeps for
+the hours of domestic intimacy. The spotted sand-piper will run along
+the stones before you, crying, 'wet-feet, wet-feet!' and bowing and
+teetering in the friendliest manner, as if to show you the best pools."
+Surely, if this invitation move you not, no voice of mine will serve to
+stir your laggard legs.
+
+One should not, however, go to the wilderness and expect it to receive
+him at once with open arms. It was there before him and will remain long
+after he is forgotten. But approach it humbly and its asperities will
+soften and in time become akin to affection. As one looks for the first
+time through the black, basaltic archway at the entrance to the Park,
+the nearby mountains have an air of distance and unfriendliness, nor do
+they speedily assume a more sympathetic relation toward the visitor. A
+region in which the world's formative forces linger ten thousand years
+after they have disappeared elsewhere will make no hasty alliance with
+strangers. The heavy foot of time treads so slowly here that one must
+come often and with observant eye to note the advance from season to
+season and to feel that he has any part or interest in it.
+
+[Illustration: _Park Gateway_]
+
+When we can judge correctly from the height of the up-springing
+vegetation whether the forest fire that blackened this hillside raged
+one year ago or ten; when we have noted that the bowl of this terrace,
+increasing in height by the insensible deposit of carbonate of lime from
+the overflowing waters, appears to outstrip from year to year the growth
+of the neighboring cedars; when these and a multitude of kindred
+phenomena are comprehended, how interested we become!
+
+Nothing said here is intended to encourage undue familiarity with the
+wild game. "Shinny on your own side," is a good motto with any game, and
+more than one can testify of sudden and unexpected trouble brought on
+themselves by meddlesomeness. In following an elk trail through the
+woods one afternoon, I found a pine tree had fallen across the path
+making a barrier about hip-high. While looking about to see whether any
+elk had gone over the trail since the tree fell, and, if so, whether
+they had leaped the barrier or had passed around it by way of the root
+or top, a squirrel with a pine cone in his teeth, sprang on the butt of
+the tree and came jauntily along the log. Some twenty feet away he spied
+me, and suddenly his whole manner and bearing changed. He dropped the
+cone and came on with a bow-legged, swaggering air, the very embodiment
+of insolent proprietorship. The top of my rod extended over the log,
+and as he came under it I gave him a smart switch across the back. Now,
+there had been nothing in my previous acquaintance with squirrels to
+lead me to think them other than most timid animals. But the slight blow
+of the rod-tip transformed this one into a Fury. With a peculiar
+half-bark, half-scream, he leaped at my face and slashed at my neck and
+ears with his powerful jaws. So strong was he that I could not drag him
+loose when his teeth were buried in my coat collar. I finally choked him
+till he loosened his hold and flung him ten feet away. Back he came to
+the attack with the speed of a wild cat. It was either retreat for me or
+death to the squirrel, and I retreated. Never before had I witnessed
+such an exhibition of diabolical malevolence, and, though I have laughed
+over it since, I was too much upset for an hour afterward to see the
+funny side of the encounter.
+
+[Illustration: _Bear Cubs_
+
+_Photo by F. J. Haynes_]
+
+The ways of the wilderness have ever been pleasant to my feet, and
+whether it was taking the ouananiche in Canada or the Beardslee trout in
+the shadow of the Olympics, it has all been good. Without detracting
+from the sport afforded by any other locality, I honestly believe that,
+taking into consideration climate, comfort, scenery, environment, and
+the opportunities for observing wild life, this region has no equal for
+trout fishing under the sun. I am aware that he who praises the fishing
+on any stream will ever have two classes of critics--the unthinking and
+the unsuccessful. To these I would say, "Whether your success shall be
+greater or less than mine will depend upon the conditions of weather and
+stream and on your own skill, and none of these do I control." In that
+splendid book, "Fly-Rods and Fly-Tackle," Mr. Henry P. Wells relates an
+instance in which he and his guide took an angler to a distant lake with
+the certain promise and expectation of fine fishing. After recording the
+keen disappointment he felt that not a single trout would show itself,
+he says, "Then I vowed a vow, which I commend to the careful
+consideration of all anglers, old and new alike--never again, under any
+circumstances, will I recommend any fishing locality in terms
+substantially stronger than these 'At that place I have done so and so;
+under like conditions it is believed that you can repeat it.' We are apt
+to speak of a place and the sport it affords as we found it, whereas
+reflection and experience should teach us that it is seldom exactly the
+same, even for two successive days."
+
+[Illustration: _Elk In Winter_
+
+  _Photo by F. J. Haynes_]
+
+There is a large number of fly-fishermen in the east who sincerely
+believe that the best sport cannot be had in the streams of the Rocky
+Mountains, and this belief has a grain of truth when the fishing is
+confined solely to native trout and to streams of indifferent interest.
+But when the waters flow through such picturesque surroundings as are
+found in the Yellowstone National Park, when from among these waters one
+may select the stream that shall furnish the trout he loves most to
+take, the objection is most fully answered. The writer can attest how
+difficult it was to outgrow the conviction that a certain brook of the
+Alleghanies had no equal, but he now gladly concedes that there are
+streams in the west just as prolific of fish and as pleasant to look
+upon as the one he followed in boyhood. It is proper enough to maintain
+that: "The fields are greenest where our childish feet have strayed,"
+but when we permit a mere sentiment to prevent the fullest enjoyment of
+the later opportunities of life, your beautiful sentiment becomes a
+harmful prejudice.
+
+When the prophet required Naaman to go down and bathe in the river
+Jordan, Naaman was exceeding wroth, and exclaimed, "Are not Abana and
+Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better than any in Israel?" The record hath
+it that Naaman went and bathed in the Jordan, and that his _body_ was
+healed of its _leprosy_ and his _mind_ of its _conceit_. So, when my
+angling friend from New Brunswick inquires whether I have fished the
+Waskahegan or have tried the lower pools of the Assametaquaghan for
+salmon, I am compelled to answer _no_. But there comes a longing to give
+him a day's outing on Hell-Roaring Creek or to see him a-foul of a
+five-pound von Behr trout amid the steam of the Riverside Geyser. The
+streams of Maine and Canada are delightful and possess a charm that
+lingers in the mind like the minor chords of almost forgotten music, but
+they cannot be compared with the full-throated torrents of the
+Absarokas. As well liken a fugue with flute and cymbals to an oratorio
+with bombardon and sky-rockets!
+
+[Illustration: _Having Eaten and Drunk_]
+
+[Illustration: _Who Hath Seen the Beaver Busied?_
+
+  _Photo by Biological Survey_]
+
+  Who hath seen the beaver busied? Who hath watched the black-tail
+          mating?
+  Who hath lain alone to hear the wild-goose cry?
+  Who hath worked the chosen water where the ouananiche is waiting,
+  Or the sea-trout's jumping-crazy for the fly?
+  He must go--go--go--away from here!
+  On the other side the world he's overdue.
+  'Send your road is clear before you when the old Spring-fret comes
+          o'er you
+    And the Red Gods call for you!
+
+  Do you know the blackened timber--do you know that racing stream
+    With the raw right-angled log-jam at the end:
+  And the bar of sun-warmed shingle where a man may bask and dream
+    To the click of shod canoe poles round the bend?
+  It is there that we are going with our rods and reels and traces,
+    To a silent smoky Indian that we know--
+  To a couch of new-pulled hemlock with the starlight on our faces,
+    For the Red Gods call us out and we must go!
+                            The Feet of the Young Men--_Kipling._
+
+
+
+
+_A CHAPTER ON TROUT FLIES_
+
+      "Thyse ben xij. flyes wyth whytch ye shall angle to ye
+      trought and graylling, and dubbe lyke as ye shall now
+      hear me tell."
+                                     _Dame Juliana Berners._
+
+
+[Illustration: Water is the Master Mason]
+
+FIVE centuries have passed since the dignified and devout prioress of
+St. Albans indited the above sentence, and the tribute to the sterling
+good sense therein is that the growing years have but added to its
+authority. A dozen well selected varieties of flies, dubbe them how ye
+lyke, are well-nigh sufficient for any locality. There may be streams
+that require a wider range of choice, but these are so rare that they
+may safely be considered as exceptional. Not that any particular harm
+has resulted from the unreasonable increase in the number and varieties
+of artificial flies. They amuse and gratify the tyro and in no wise
+disturb the master of the art. But an over-plethoric fly book in the
+possession of a stranger will, with the knowing, place the angling
+ability of the owner under suspicion. Better a thousand-fold, are the
+single half-dozen flies the uses and seasons of which are fully
+understood than a multitude of meaningless creations.
+
+The angler should strive to attain an intelligent understanding of the
+principal features of the artificial fly and how a change in the form
+and color of these features affects the behavior of the fish for which
+he angles. In studying this matter men have gone down in diving suits
+that they might better see the fly as it appeared when presented to the
+fish, and there is nothing in their reports to encourage extremely fine
+niceties in fly-dressing. One may know a great deal of artists and their
+work and yet truly know but little of the value of _art_ itself; or have
+been a great reader of economics, and yet have little practical
+knowledge of that complex product of society called _civilization_. So,
+I had rather possess the knowledge a dear friend of mine has of Dickens,
+Shakespeare, and the Bible alone than to be able to discuss "literature"
+in general before clubs and societies.
+
+Several years of angling experience in the far west have convinced the
+writer that flies of full bodies and positive colors are the most
+killing, and that the palmers are slightly better than the hackles. Of
+the standard patterns of flies the most successful are the coachman,
+royal coachman, black hackle, Parmacheene Belle, with the silver doctor
+for lake fishing, in the order named. The trout here, with the exception
+of those in Lake Yellowstone, are fairly vigorous fighters, and it is
+important that your tackle should be strong and sure rather than
+elegant.
+
+With a view of determining whether it were possible to make a fly that
+would answer nearly all the needs of the mountain fisherman, I began, in
+1897, a series of experiments in fly-tying that continued over a period
+of five years. The result is the production of what is widely known in
+the west as the Pitcher fly. As before indicated, this fly did not
+spring full panoplied into being, but was evolved from standard types by
+gradual modifications. The body is a furnace hackle, tied palmer; tail
+of barred wood-duck feather; wing snow-white, to which is added a blue
+cheek. The name, "Pitcher," was given to it as a compliment to Major
+John Pitcher, who, as acting superintendent of the Yellowstone National
+Park, has done much to improve the quality of the fishing in these
+streams.
+
+From a dozen states anglers have written testifying to the killing
+qualities of the Pitcher Fly, and the extracts following show that its
+success is not confined to any locality nor to any single species of
+trout:
+
+"The Pitcher flies you gave me have aided me in filling my twenty-pound
+basket three times in the last three weeks. Have had the best sport this
+season I have ever enjoyed on the Coeur d'Alene waters, and I can
+truthfully say I owe it all to the Pitcher fly and its designer."
+
+                                       E. R. DENNY,
+                                             Wallace, Idaho.
+
+[Illustration: _Following a Little River_]
+
+[Illustration: _At the Head of the Meadow_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Tongue River_
+
+  _Photo by N. H. Darton_]
+
+"One afternoon I had put up my rod and strolled down to the river where
+one of our party was whipping a pool of the Big Hole, trying to induce a
+fish to strike. He said: 'There's an old villain in there; he wants to
+strike but can't make up his mind to do it.' I said: 'I have a fly that
+will make him strike,' and as I had my book in my pocket I handed him a
+No. 8 Pitcher. He made two casts and hooked a beautiful trout, that
+weighed nineteen ounces, down. I regard the Pitcher as the best killer
+in my book."
+
+                         J. E. MONROE, Dillon, Montana.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"I determined to follow the stream up into the mountains, but as I
+neared the woods at the upper end of the meadow I stopped to cast into a
+long, straight reach of the river where the breeze from the ocean was
+rippling the surface of the stream. The grassy bank rose steep behind me
+and only a little fringe of wild roses partly concealed me from the
+water. I cast the Pitcher flies you gave me well out on the rough water,
+allowed them to sink a hand-breadth, and at the first movement of the
+line I saw that heart-expanding flash of a broad silver side gleaming
+from the clear depths. The trout fastened on savagely, and as he was
+coming my way, I assisted his momentum with all the spring of the rod,
+and he came flying out into the clean, fresh grass of the meadow behind
+me. It was a half-pound speckled brook trout. I did not stop to pouch
+him, but cast again. In a moment I was fast to another such, and again I
+sprung him bodily out, glistening like a silver ingot, to where his
+brother lay. In my first twelve casts I took ten such fish, all from ten
+to twelve inches long, mostly without any playing. I took twenty-two
+fine fish without missing one strike, and landed every one safely. I was
+not an hour in taking the lot. Then oddly enough, I whipped the water
+for fifty yards without another rise. Satisfied that the circus was
+over, I climbed up into the meadow and gathered the spoils into my
+basket. Nearly all were brook trout, but two or three silvery salmon
+trout among them had struck quite as gamely. I had such a weight of fish
+as I never took before on the Nekanicum in our most fortunate fishing."
+
+[Illustration: _Talking It Over_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _Beaver Dam and Reservoir_]
+
+"Walking back along the trail, I came again to the long reach where I
+had my luck an hour before, and cast again to see if there might be
+another fish. Two silver glints shone up through the waves in the same
+instant. I struck one of the two fish, though I might have had both if I
+had left the flies unmoved the fraction of a second. Three times I
+refused such doublets, for I had not changed an inch of tackle, and
+scarcely even looked the casting line over. It was no time to allow two
+good fish to go raking that populous pool. However I did take chances
+with one doublet. So out of the same lucky spot on my return, I took ten
+more fish each about a foot long. I brought nearly every one flying out
+as I struck him, and I never put such a merciless strain on a rod
+before.
+
+[Illustration: "_That Populous Pool_"
+
+  _Photo by John Gill_]
+
+"I had concluded again that the new tenantry had all been evicted, and
+was casting 'most extended' trying the powers of the rod and reaching, I
+should say, sixty feet out. As the flies came half-way in and I was just
+about snatching them out for a long back cast, the father of the family
+soared after them in a gleaming arc. He missed by not three inches and
+bored his way straight down into the depths of the clear green water.
+'My heart went out to him,' as our friend Wells said, but coaxing was
+in vain. I tried them above and below, sinking the flies deeply, or
+dropping them airily upon the waves, but to no purpose. I had the
+comforting thought that we may pick him up when you are here this
+summer."
+
+                              JOHN GILL, Portland, Oregon.
+
+
+_THE BONNY RED HECKLE_
+
+      Away frae the smoke an' the smother,
+        Away frae the crush o' the thrang!
+      Away frae the labour an' pother
+        That have fettered our freedom sae lang!
+      For the May's i' full bloom i' the hedges
+        And the laverock's aloft i' the blue,
+      An' the south wind sings low i' the sedges,
+        By haughs that are silvery wi' dew.
+      Up, angler, off wi' each shackle!
+        Up, gad and gaff, and awa'!
+      Cry 'Hurrah for the canny red heckle,
+        The heckle that tackled them a'!'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+      Then back to the smoke and the smother,
+        The uproar and crush o' the thrang;
+      An' back to the labour and pother,
+        But happy and hearty and strang.
+      Wi' a braw light o' mountain and muirland,
+        Outflashing frae forehead and e'e,
+      Wi' a blessing flung back to the norland,
+        An' a thousand, dear Coquet, to thee!
+      As again we resume the old shackle,
+        Our gad an' our gaff stowed awa',
+      An'--goodbye to the canny 'red heckle,'
+        The heckle that tackled them a'!'
+             --From "The Lay of the Lea." By _Thomas Westwood_.
+
+      NOTE--I am indebted to Mrs. Mary Orvis Marbury, author
+      of "Favorite Flies," for copies of "Hey for Coquet,"
+      and "Farewell to Coquet," from the former of which the
+      foregoing are extracts.
+
+
+
+
+_GRIZZLY LAKE AND LAKE ROSE_
+
+  "And best of all, through twilight's calm
+  The hermit-thrush repeats his psalm."
+                           _Henry Van Dyke_
+
+
+[Illustration: _Grizzly Lake_]
+
+GRIZZLY LAKE lies secluded among the timbered hills, four miles
+south--south and west--from Willow Park. The long narrow bed of the lake
+was furrowed by a glacier that once debouched here from the mountains to
+the west, and through the gravel and detritus that surround it the
+melting snows and rain are filtered till the water is fit for the
+Olympian deities. No more profitable place can be found for the angler
+to visit. The lake swarms with brook trout weighing from one to five
+pounds, and in the ice-cold water which is supplied with an abundance of
+insect and crustacean food the fish are in prime condition after July
+first. The best fishing is at the southern end, near where Straight
+Creek enters the lake. A little investigation will discover close at
+hand, several large springs that flow into the lake at this point, and
+here the trout congregate after the spawning season.
+
+[Illustration: _Lake Rose_]
+
+In order to reach this location conveniently, I, early in 1902,
+constructed a light raft of dry pine logs, about six by ten feet, well
+spiked together with drift bolts; since which time other parties have
+added a substantial row boat. Both the boat and the raft may be found at
+the lower end of the lake, just where the trail brings you to it. The
+canvas boat that was set up on the lake earlier, was destroyed the first
+winter by bears, but the boat and raft now there will probably hold
+their own against the beasts of the field for some time. If you use
+either of them you will, of course, return it to the outlet of the lake,
+that he who cometh after may also enjoy.
+
+The route to Grizzly Lake follows very closely the Bannock Indian trail
+from the point where Straight Creek enters the meadows of Willow Park to
+the outlet of the lake. The trail itself is interesting. It was the
+great Indian thoroughfare between Idaho and the Big Horn Basin in
+Wyoming, and was doubtless an ancient one at the time the Romans
+dominated Britain. How plainly the record tells you that it was made by
+an aboriginal people. Up hill and down hill, across marsh or meadow, it
+is always a single trail, trodden into furrow-like distinctness by
+moccasined feet. Nowhere does it permit the going abreast of the beasts
+of draft or burden. At no place does it suggest the side-by-side travel
+of the white man for companionship's sake, nor the hand-in-hand
+converse of mother and child, lover and maid. Ease your pony a moment
+here and dream. Here comes the silent procession on its way to barter in
+the land of the stranger, and here again it will return in the autumn,
+as it has done for a thousand years. In the van are the blanketed
+braves, brimful of in-toeing, painful dignity. Behind these follow the
+ponies drawing the lodge-poles and camp outfit, and then come the squaws
+and the children. Just there is a bend in the trail and the lodge-poles
+have abraded the tree in the angle till it is worn half through. A
+little further on, in an open glade, they camped for the night. Decades
+have come and gone since the last Indian party passed this way, yet a
+cycle hence the trail will be distinct at intervals.
+
+[Illustration: _The Bighorn Range_
+
+  _Photo by N. H. Darton_]
+
+By turning to the west at Winter Creek and passing over the sharp hills
+that border that stream you will come, at the end of a nine-mile
+journey, to Lake Rose. The way is upward through groves of pane,
+thickets of aspen, and steep open glades surrounded by silver fir trees
+that would be the delight of a landscape gardener if he could cause them
+to grow in our city parks as they do here. Elk are everywhere. We ride
+through and around bands of them, male, female, and odd-shapen calves
+with wobbly legs and luminous, questioning eyes. As you pause now and
+then to contemplate some new view of the wilderness unfolding before
+you, the beauty, and freedom and serenity of it are irresistible, and
+you comprehend for the first time the spirit of the Argonauts of '49 and
+the nobility of the pæan they chanted to express their exalted
+brotherhood:
+
+  "The days of old,
+   The days of gold,
+   The days of '49."
+
+[Illustration: _Gorge of the Firehole River_]
+
+[Illustration: _A Wooded Islet_]
+
+Suddenly the ground slopes away before us and Lake Rose lies at our
+feet, like an amethyst in a chalice of jade-green onyx. The surroundings
+are picturesque. The mountains descend abruptly to the water's edge and
+the snow never quite disappears from its banks in the longest summer.
+Here in June may be seen that incredible thing, the wild strawberry
+blossoming bravely above the slush-snow that still hides the plant
+below, and the bitter-root putting forth buds in the lee of a snow bank.
+A small stream enters the lake at the northwest, and here the trout are
+most abundant. They rise eagerly to the silver doctor fly, a half dozen
+often breaking at once, any one of which is a weight for a rod. Probably
+not more than a score of anglers have ever cast a fly from this point,
+and a word of caution may for this reason be pardoned. The low
+temperature of the water retards the spawning season till midsummer,
+consequently trout should not be taken here earlier than the third week
+of July. Again, nature has given to every true sportsman the good sense
+to stop when he has enough, and as this unwritten law is practically his
+only restraint, he should feel that its observance is in safe hands and
+that the sportsman's limit will be strictly observed.
+
+[Illustration: _Bear Up!_]
+
+
+
+
+_A MORNING ON IRON CREEK_
+
+
+[Illustration: _The Boy and the von Behr_]
+
+WHEN the snows have disappeared from the valleys and lower hills, and
+the streams have fallen to the level of their banks and their waters
+have lost the brown stain filtered from decaying leaves, and have
+resumed the chatty, confidential tones of summer, then is the time to
+angle for the brown trout. If you would know the exact hour, listen for
+the brigadier bird as he sings morning and evening from a tall tree at
+the mouth of Iron Creek. When you hear his lonely wood-note, joint your
+rod and take the path through the lodge-pole pines that brings you to
+the creek about three hundred yards above its confluence with the river.
+The lush grass of the meadow is ankle-deep with back water from the main
+stream, and Iron Creek and the Little Firehole lie level-lipped and
+currentless. As you look quietly on from the shade of a tree, the water
+breaks into circles in a dozen places, and just at the edge of a bank
+where the sod overhangs the stream there is a mighty splash which is
+repeated several times. Move softly, for the ground is spongy and
+vibrates under a heavy tread sufficiently to warn the fish for many
+yards, then the stream becomes suddenly silent and you will wait long
+for the trout to resume their feeding.
+
+[Illustration: _Rapids of the Gibbon River_]
+
+[Illustration: _Along Iron Creek_]
+
+Stealthily drop the fly just over the edge of the bank, as though some
+witless insect had lost his hold above and fallen!--Right Honorable Dean
+of the Guild, I read the other day an article in which you stated that
+the brown trout never leaps on a slack line. Surely you are right, and
+this is not a trout after all, but a flying fish, for he went down
+stream in three mighty and unexpected leaps that wrecked your theory and
+the top joint of the rod before the line could be retrieved. Then the
+fly comes limply home and nothing remains of the sproat hook but the
+shank.
+
+[Illustration: _Divinity and Infinity_]
+
+These things happened to a friend in less time than is taken in the
+telling. When he had recovered from the shock he remarked, smilingly,
+"That wasn't half bad for a Dutchman, now, was it?" As he is a sensible
+fellow and has no "tendency toward effeminate attenuation" in tackle, he
+graciously accepted and used the proffered cast of Pitcher flies tied on
+number six O'Shaughnessy hooks.
+
+Having ventured this much concerning what the writer considers _proper_
+tackle, he would like to go further and record here his disapproval of
+the individual who turns up his nose at any rod of over five ounces in
+weight, and who tells you with an air from which you are expected to
+infer much, that fly fishing is really the only _honorable_ and
+_gentlemanly_ manner of taking trout. In the language of one who was a
+master of concise and forceful phrase, "This is one of the deplorable
+fishing affectations and pretences which the rank and file of the
+fraternity ought openly to expose and repudiate. Our irritation is
+greatly increased when we recall the fact that every one of these
+super-refined fly-casting dictators, when he fails to allure trout by
+his most scientific casts, will chase grasshoppers to the point of
+profuse perspiration, and turn over logs and stones with feverish
+anxiety in quest of worms and grubs, if haply he can with these save
+himself from empty-handedness."[B] Fly fishing as a recreation justifies
+all good that has been written of it, but it is a tell-tale sport that
+infallibly informs your associates what manner of being you are. It is
+self-purifying like the limpid mountain stream its followers love, and
+no wrong-minded individual nor set of individuals can ever pollute it.
+It is too cosmopolitan a pleasure to belong to the exclusive, and too
+robust in sentiment to be confined to gossamer gut leaders and midge
+hooks.
+
+Much, in fact everything, of your success in taking fish in Iron Creek
+depends on the time of your visit. For three hundred, thirty days of the
+year it is profitless water. Then come the days when the German trout
+begin their annual _auswanderung_. No one need be told that these trout
+do not live in this creek throughout the year. For trout are brook-wise
+or river-wise according as they have been reared, and the habits,
+attitudes and behavior of the one are as different from the other as are
+those of the boys and girls reared in the country from the city-bred. If
+one of these river-bred fish breaks from the hook here he does not
+immediately bore up stream into deep water and disappear beneath a
+sheltering log, bank or submerged tree-top as one would having a claim
+on these waters, but heading down-stream, he stays not for brake and he
+stops not for stone till the river is reached. In his headlong haste to
+escape he reminds one of a country boy going for a doctor.
+
+[Illustration: _Virginia Cascade_]
+
+It is one of the unexplained phenomena of trout life and habit, why
+these fish leap as they do here at this season, when hooked. In no other
+stream and at no other time have I known them to exhibit this quality.
+It is one of those problems of trout activity for which apparently no
+reason can be given further than the one which is said to control the
+fair sex;
+
+  "When she will she will,
+   And you may depend on't;
+   When she won't she won't,
+   And that's an end on't."
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+      "I'm wrapped up in my plaid, and lyin' a' my length on
+      a bit green platform, fit for the fairies' feet, wi' a
+      craig hangin' ower me a thousand feet high, yet bright
+      and balmy a' the way up wi' flowers and briars, and
+      broom and birks, and mosses maist beautiful to behold
+      wi' half shut e'e, and through aneath ane's arm
+      guardin' the face frae the cloudless sunshine; and
+      perhaps a bit bonny butterfly is resting wi' faulded
+      wings on a gowan, no a yard frae your cheek; and noo
+      waukening out o' a simmer dream floats awa' in its
+      wavering beauty, but, as if unwilling to leave its
+      place of mid-day sleep, comin' back and back, and
+      roun' and roun' on this side and that side, and ettlin
+      in its capricious happiness to fasten again on some
+      brighter floweret, till the same breath o' wund that
+      lifts up your hair so refreshingly catches the airy
+      voyager and wafts her away into some other nook of her
+      ephemeral paradise."
+                                   CHRISTOPHER NORTH.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[Footnote B: Hon. Grover Cleveland in _The Saturday Evening Post_.]
+
+
+
+
+_AN AFTERNOON ON THE FIREHOLE_
+
+
+[Illustration: _First View of the Firehole_]
+
+THE Firehole is a companionable river. Notwithstanding its forbidding
+name, it is pre-eminently a stream for the angler, and always does its
+best to put him at his ease. Like some hospitable manorial lord, it
+comes straight down the highway for a league to greet the stranger and
+to offer him the freedom of its estate. Every fisherman who goes much
+alone along streams will unconsciously associate certain human
+attributes with the qualities of the waters he fishes. It may be a quiet
+charm that lulls to rest, or a bold current that challenges his
+endurance and caution. Between these extremes there is all that infinite
+range of moods and fancies which find their counterpart in the emotions.
+The Firehole possesses many of these qualities in a high degree. It can
+be broad, sunny and genial, or whisper with a scarcely audible lisp over
+languid, trailing beds of conferva; and anon, lead you with tumultuous
+voice between rocky walls where a misstep would be disastrous. The
+unfortunate person who travels in its company for the time required to
+make the tour of the Park and remains indifferent to all phases of its
+many-sidedness, should turn back. Nature will have no communion with
+him, nor will he gain her little secrets and confidences:
+
+  "They're just beyond the skyline,
+   Howe'er so far you cruise."
+
+[Illustration: _Cascades of the Madison_]
+
+[Illustration: _Below the Cascades_]
+
+During the restful period following the noon-hour, when there is a truce
+between fisherman and fish, we lie in the shadow of the pines and read
+"Our Lady's Tumbler," till, in the drowsy mind fancy plays an interlude
+with fact. The ripple of the distant stream becomes the patter of
+priestly feet down dim corridors, and the whisper of the pines the
+rustle of sacerdotal robes. Through half-shut lids we see the clouds
+drift across the slopes of a distant mountain, double as it were, cloud
+and snow bank vying with each other in whiteness.
+
+[Illustration: _Undine Falls_]
+
+Neither the companionship of man nor that of a boisterous stream will
+accord with our present mood. So, with rod in hand, we ford the stream
+above the island and lie down amid the wild flowers in the shadow of the
+western hill. For wild flowers, like patriotism, seemingly reach their
+highest perfection amid conditions of soil and climate that are
+apparently most uncongenial. Here almost in reach of hand, are a variety
+and profusion of flowers rarely found in the most favored spots;
+columbines, gentians, forget-me-nots, asters and larkspurs, are all in
+bloom at the same moment, for the summer is short and nature has trained
+them to thrust forth their leaves beneath the very heel of winter and to
+bear bud, flower, and fruit within the compass of fifty days.
+
+I strongly urge every tourist, angling or otherwise, to carry with him
+both a camera and a herbarium. With these he may preserve invaluable
+records of his outing; one to remind him of the lavish panorama of
+beauty of mountain, lake and waterfall; the other to hold within its
+leaves the delicately colored flowers that delight the senses. A great
+deal is said about the cheap tourist nowadays, with the emphasis so
+placed on the word "cheap" as to create a wrong impression. With the
+manner of your travel, whether in Pullman cars, Concord coaches,
+buck-board wagons, or on foot, this adjective has nothing to do. It
+does, however, describe pretty accurately a quality of mind too often
+found among visitors to such places--a mind that looks only to the
+present and passing events, and that between intervals of
+geyser-chasing, is busied with inconsequential gabble, with no thought
+of selecting the abiding, permanent things as treasures for the
+storehouse of memory.
+
+What fisherman is there who has not in his fly-book a dozen or more
+flies that are perennial reminders of great piscatorial events? And what
+angler is there who does not love to go over them at times, one by one,
+and recall the incidents surrounding the history of each?
+
+  We fondle the flies in our fancy,
+    Selecting a cast that will kill,
+  Then wait till a breeze from the canyon
+    Has rimpled the water so still;--
+      Teal, and Fern, and Beaver,
+  Coachman, and Caddis, and Herl,--
+  And dream that the king of the river
+  Lies under the foam of that swirl.
+
+  There's a feather from far Tioga,
+    And one from the Nepigon,
+  And one from the upper Klamath
+    That tell of battles won--
+      Palmer, and Hackle, and Alder,
+  Claret, and Polka, and Brown,--
+  Each one a treasured memento
+  Of days that have come and gone.
+
+  A joust of hardiest conflict
+    With knight in times of eld
+  Would bring a lesser pleasure
+    Than each of these victories held.
+      Rapids, and foam, and smother,
+  Lunge, and thrust, and leap,--
+  And to know that the barbed feather
+  Is fastened sure and deep.
+
+  Abbey, and Chantry, and Quaker,
+    Dorset and Canada,
+  Premier, Hare's Ear, and Hawthorne,
+    Brown Ant, and Yellow May,
+      Jungle-Cock, Pheasant, and Triumph,
+  Romeyn, and Montreal,
+  Are names that will ever linger
+  In the sunlight of Memory Hall.
+
+The whole field of angling literature contains nothing more exquisite
+than the following description of the last days of Christopher North, as
+written by his daughter:
+
+"It was an affecting sight to see him busy, nay, quite absorbed with the
+fishing tackle scattered about the bed, propped up with pillows--his
+noble head, yet glorious with its flowing locks, carefully combed by
+attentive hands, and falling on each side of his unfaded face. How
+neatly he picked out each elegantly dressed fly from its little bunch,
+drawing it out with trembling hand along the white coverlet, and then
+replacing it in his pocket-book, he would tell ever and anon of the
+streams he used to fish in of old."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _Picturesque Rocks in River_]
+
+By four o'clock the stream is hidden from the sun and the shadow of the
+wooded summit at your back has crossed the roadway and is climbing the
+heights beyond. As if moved by some signal unheard by the listener, the
+trout begin to feed all along the surface of the water. Leap follows or
+accompanies leap as far as the eye can discern up stream, and down
+stream to where the water breaks to the downpull of the gorge below.
+Select a clear space for your back-cast, wait till a cloud obscures the
+sun. * * * * The trout took the fly from below and with a momentum that
+carried him full-length into the air. But there was no turning of the
+body in the arc that artists love to picture. He dropped straight down
+as he arose and the waters closed over him with a "plop" which you learn
+afterward is characteristic of the rise and strike of the German trout.
+All this may not be observed at first, for if he is one of the big
+fellows, he will cut out some busy-work for you to prevent his going
+under the top of that submerged tree which you had not noticed before.
+As it was, you brought him clear by a scant hand's breadth, only to
+have him dive for another similar one with greater energy.
+
+[Illustration: "_That Delectable Island_"]
+
+Well, it's the same old story over again, but one that never becomes
+altogether tedious to the angler. And the profitable part of this tale
+is that it may be re-enacted here on any summer afternoon.
+
+Some day a canoe will float down the river and land on the gravelly
+beach at the upper end of that delectable island, just where the trees
+are mirrored in the water so picturesquely. Then a tent will be set up
+and two shall possess that island for a whole, happy week. If you are
+coming by that road then, give the "Hallo" of the fellow craft and you
+shall have a loaf and as many fish as you like, and be sent on your way
+as becomes a man and brother.
+
+
+
+
+_TRAILS FROM YANCEY'S AND OTHER TRAILS_
+
+
+[Illustration: _Yancey's_]
+
+WHEN "Uncle" John Yancey, peace to his ashes, selected the site for his
+home and built his cabin under the shelter of the mountain at the north
+end of Pleasant Valley, he displayed that capacity to discover and
+appropriate the best things of the earth which is characteristic of
+American pioneers. Here game was abundant and everything that a remote,
+mountainous country could supply to the frontiersman was at hand. A
+stream of purest water ran by the door, and the open, grassy meadows
+were ample for the supply of hay and pasturage. The scenery is
+delightful, varied and picturesque. No other locality in the Park is
+comparable with it as a place of abode, and there is no pleasanter place
+in which to spend a week than at "Yancey's."
+
+The government has recently completed a road from the canyon of the
+Yellowstone, over Mt. Washburn, down the valley near Yancey's, and
+reaching Mammoth Hot Springs by way of Lava Creek. This has added
+another day to the itinerary of the Park as planned by the
+transportation companies, and one which for scenic interest surpasses
+any other day of the tour. A mere category of the places of interest
+that may be seen in this region would be lengthy.
+
+The lower canyon of the Yellowstone with its overhanging walls five
+hundred feet high, with pillars of columnar basalt reaching more than
+half-way from base to summit, the petrified trees, lofty cliffs, and
+romantic waterfalls, will delight and charm the visitor.
+
+[Illustration: "_Swirl and Sweep of the Water_"]
+
+The angler will find the waters of this region as abundantly supplied
+with trout as any area of like extent anywhere. No amount of fishing
+will ever exhaust the "Big Eddy" of the Yellowstone, and it is worth a
+day's journey to witness the swirl and sweep of the water after it
+emerges from the confining, vertical walls. The velocity of the current
+at this point is very great, and surely, during a flood, attains a speed
+of sixteen or more miles an hour. In the eddy itself the trout rise
+indifferently to the fly, but will come to the red-legged grasshopper as
+long as the supply lasts.
+
+Strange to say, they will not take the grasshopper on the surface of the
+water. Two bright faced boys who had climbed down into the canyon
+watched me whip the pool in every direction for a quarter of an hour
+without taking a single trout. Satisfied that something was wrong, I
+fastened a good sized Rangeley sinker to the leader about a foot above
+the hook and pitched the grasshopper into the buffeting currents. An
+hour later we carried back to camp twenty-five trout which, placed
+endwise, head to tail, measured twenty-five feet on a tape line.
+
+This use of a sinker under the circumstances was not a great discovery,
+but it spelled the difference between success and failure at the time.
+So I have been glad at most times to learn by experience and from others
+the little things that help make a better day's angling.
+
+[Illustration: _The Palisades_]
+
+Once when I knew more about trout fishing than I have ever convinced
+myself that I knew since, I visited a famous stream in a wilderness new
+and unknown to me, fully resolved to show the natives how to do things.
+Near the end of the third day of almost fruitless fishing, the modest
+guide volunteered to take me out that evening, if I cared to go. Of
+course I cared to go, and I shall never forget that moonlight night on
+Beaver Creek. We returned to camp about ten o'clock with twenty-eight
+trout, four of which weighed better than three pounds apiece.
+
+[Illustration: _A Young Corsair of the Plains_]
+
+It may be a severe shock to the sensibilities of the "super-refined
+fly-caster" to suggest so mean a bait as grasshoppers, yet he may obtain
+some comfort, as did one aforetime, by labeling the can in which the
+hoppers are carried:
+
+                  "_CALOPTENOUS FEMUR-RUBRUM_."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Then there are Slough Creek, Hell-Roaring Creek, East Fork, Trout Lake,
+and a host of other streams and lakes that have been favorite resorts
+with anglers for years, and in which may be taken the very leviathans of
+six, seven, eight, and even ten, pounds' weight. He must be difficult to
+please who finds not a day of days among them. Up to the present time
+only the red-throat trout inhabit these waters, but plants of other
+varieties have been made and will doubtless thrive quite as well as the
+native trout.
+
+[Illustration: _Tower Falls_]
+
+Owing probably to the fact that, until recently, the region around Tower
+Creek and Falls was not accessible by roads, this stream received no
+attention from the fish commission till the summer of 1903, when a
+meager plant of 15,000 brook trout fry was made there. The scenery in
+this neighborhood is unsurpassed, and when the stream becomes well
+stocked it will, doubtless, be a favorite resort with anglers who
+delight in mountain fastnesses or in the study of geological records of
+past ages. The drainage basin of Tower Creek coincides with the limits
+of the extinct crater of an ancient volcano. As you stand amid the dark
+forests with which the walls of the crater are clothed and see the
+evidences on all sides of the Titanic forces once at work here, fancy
+has but little effort in picturing something of the tremendous scenes
+once enacted on this spot. Now all is peace and quiet, the quiet of the
+wilderness, which save for the rush of the torrential stream, is
+absolutely noiseless. No song of bird gladdens the darkened forests, and
+in its gloom the wild animals are seldom or never seen. How strikingly
+the silence and wonder of the scene proclaim that nature has formed the
+world for the happiness of man.
+
+Within two hundred yards of the Yellowstone River, Tower Creek passes
+over a fall of singular and romantic beauty. Major Chittenden in his
+book "The Yellowstone" thus describes it: "This waterfall is the most
+beautiful in the Park, if one takes into consideration all its
+surroundings. The fall itself is very graceful in form. The deep
+cavernous basin into which it pours itself is lined with shapely
+evergreen trees, so that the fall is partially screened from view. Above
+it stand those peculiar forms of rock characteristic of that
+locality--detached pinnacles or towers which give rise to the name. The
+lapse of more than thirty years since Lieutenant Doane saw these falls,
+has given us nothing descriptive of them that can compare with the
+simple words of his report penned upon the first inspiration of a new
+discovery: 'Nothing can be more chastely beautiful than this lovely
+cascade, hidden away in the dim light of overshadowing rocks and woods,
+its very voice hushed to a low murmur unheard at the distance of a few
+hundred yards. Thousands might pass by within half a mile and not dream
+of its existence; but once seen, it passes to the list of most pleasant
+memories.'"
+
+[Illustration: _The Shadow of a Cliff_]
+
+If the angler wanders farther into the wilderness than any waters named
+herein would lead him, he will find other streams to bear him company
+amid scenes that will live long in his memory and where the trout are
+ever ready to pay him the compliment of a rise. To the eastward flows
+Shoshone river with its myriad tributaries, teeming with trout and
+draining a region far more rugged and lofty than the Park proper. To the
+south and west are those wonderfully beautiful lakes that form the
+source of the Snake river. Here, early in the season, the great lake or
+Macinac trout, _Salvelinus namaycush_, are occasionally taken with a
+trolling spoon.
+
+From north to south, from the Absaroka Mountains to the Tetons, on both
+sides of the continental divide, this peerless pleasuring-ground is
+netted with a lace-work of streams. Two score lakes and more than one
+hundred, sixty streams are named on the map of this domain which is
+forever secured and safeguarded
+
+  "_FOR THE BENEFIT AND ENJOYMENT OF THE PEOPLE_"
+
+[Illustration: _Good Bye Till Next Year_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+Obvious punctuation errors repaired.
+
+Page 26, "Whpskehegan" changed to "Waskahegan" (fished the Waskahegan)
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Fly Fishing in Wonderland, by Klahowya
+
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Fly Fishing in Wonderland, by Klahowya.
+    </title>
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+    .poem2   {margin-left: 35%; text-align: left; margin-right: 25%; }
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Fly Fishing in Wonderland, by Klahowya
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Fly Fishing in Wonderland
+
+Author: Klahowya
+
+Release Date: August 31, 2011 [EBook #37278]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FLY FISHING IN WONDERLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Emmy and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
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+Internet Archive)
+
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+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="600" height="400" alt="FLY FISHING in WONDERLAND Cover" title="" />
+</div>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i-01.jpg" width="600" height="390" alt="FLY FISHING in WONDERLAND title" title="" />
+</div>
+<div class='center'><i>A HILL VAGABOND</i></div>
+
+<div class='poem2'>
+<i>Snakin' wood down the mount'ins,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fishin' the little streams;</span><br />
+Smokin' my pipe in the twilight,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">An' dreamin' over old dreams;</span></i><br />
+<br />
+<i>Breathin' the breath o' the cool snows,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sniffin' the scent o' the pine;</span><br />
+Watchin' the hurryin' river,<br />
+An' hearin' the coyotes whine.</i><br />
+<br />
+<i>This is life in the mount'ins,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Summer an' winter an' fall,</span><br />
+Up to the rainy springtime,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When the birds begin to call.</span></i><br />
+<br />
+<i>Then I fix my rod and tackle,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">I read, I smoke an' I sing.</span><br />
+Glad like the birds to be livin'&mdash;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Livin' the life of a king!</span></i><br />
+
+
+<div class='sig'>
+&mdash;<i>Louise Paley in The Saturday Evening Post.</i><br />
+</div></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class='copyright'>
+<span class="smcap">Copyright, 1910</span>,<br />
+By <span class="smcap">O. P. Barnes</span><br />
+</div>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i-02.jpg" width="600" height="470" alt="Dedication" title="" />
+</div>
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<div class='bbox'><div class='center'>TO JOHN GILL<br />
+
+<br />
+<span class='small'>IN WHOSE COMPANIONSHIP I HAVE PASSED MANY DELIGHTFUL<br />
+DAYS ALONG THE STREAMS AND IN THE WOODS; QUIET<br />
+ENJOYABLE EVENINGS WATCHING THE ALPENGLOW<br />
+ILLUMINATE THE SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAINS;<br />
+AND STORMY NIGHTS BESIDE THE SEA</span><br />
+</div></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2><i>TABLE OF CONTENTS</i></h2>
+
+
+
+<div class='center'> <table class="contents" summary="contents">
+<tr><td align='left'><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents">
+<tr><td align='left'><i>GOOD FISHING! A FOREWORD</i></td><td align='right'><i><a href="#Page_6">6</a></i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><i>IN THE DIM, RED DAWN</i></td><td align='right'><i><a href="#Page_9">9</a></i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><i>THE TROUT&mdash;NATIVE AND PLANTED</i></td><td align='right'><i><a href="#Page_14">14</a></i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><i>LETS GO A-FISHING!</i></td><td align='right'><i><a href="#Page_21">21</a></i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><i>A CHAPTER ON TROUT FLIES</i></td><td align='right'><i><a href="#Page_28">28</a></i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><i>GRIZZLY LAKE AND LAKE ROSE</i></td><td align='right'><i><a href="#Page_35">35</a></i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><i>A MORNING ON IRON CREEK</i></td><td align='right'><i><a href="#Page_40">40</a></i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><i>AN AFTERNOON ON THE FIREHOLE</i></td><td align='right'><i><a href="#Page_45">45</a></i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><i>TRAILS FROM YANCEY'S AND OTHER TRAILS</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align='right'><i><a href="#Page_51">51</a></i></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+<br /><br /><br /><br /></td>
+</tr></table></div>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/i_007.png" width="450" height="86" alt="crossed fishing poles" title="" />
+</div>
+<h2><i>GOOD FISHING!</i></h2>
+
+
+<p><i>This little writing has to do with the streams and the trout therein of that portion of our country extending
+southward from the southern boundary of Montana to the Teton mountains, and eastward from the eastern
+boundary of Idaho to the Absaroka range. Lying on both sides of the continental divide, its surface is veined
+by the courses of a multitude of streams flowing either to the Pacific Ocean or to the Gulf of Mexico, while
+from the southern rim of this realm of wonders the waters reach the Gulf of California through the mighty
+canyons carved by the Colorado.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>This region has abundant attractions for seekers of outdoor pleasures, and for none more than for the
+angler. Here, within a space about seventy miles square, nature has placed a bewildering diversity of
+rivers, mountains, lakes, canyons, geysers and waterfalls not found elsewhere in the world. Fortunately,
+Congress early reserved the greater part of this domain as a public pleasure ground. Under the wise administration
+of government officials the natural beauties are protected and made accessible by superb roads. The
+streams also, many of which were barren of fish, have, by successful plantings and intelligent protection, become
+all that the sportsman can wish. The angler who wanders through the woods in almost any direction will
+scarcely fail to find some picturesque lake or swift flowing stream where the best of sport may be had with the
+rod.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Several years ago I made my first visit to this country, and it has been my privilege to return thither
+annually on fishing excursions of varying duration. These outings have been so enjoyable and have yielded
+so much pleasure at the time and afterwards, that I should like to sound the angler's pack-cry, "Good Fishing!"
+loudly enough to lead others to go also.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>The photographs from which the illustrations were made, except where due credit is given to others,
+were taken with a small hand camera which has hung at my belt in crossing mountains and wading streams,
+and are mainly of such scenes as one comes upon in out-of-the-way places while following that "most
+virtuous pastime" of fly-casting.</i></p>
+
+<div class='sig'>
+<i>THE AUTHOR.</i><br />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/i_008.png" width="450" height="202" alt="Creel and flies" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i-04.jpg" width="600" height="372" alt="THE DIM, RED DAWN" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE DIM, RED DAWN</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>IN THE DIM, RED DAWN</i></h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 293px;">
+<img src="images/i-05.jpg" width="293" height="350" alt="A Leaping Salmon Photo by Hugh M. Smith" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Leaping Salmon<br /> Photo by Hugh M. Smith</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="unindent"><br />EFORE exercising the right of eminent domain over these
+waters, it may be profitable to say a word in explanation of
+the fact that hardly more than a score of years ago many
+of these beautiful lakes and streams were absolutely without
+fish life. This will aid us in understanding what the
+government has done and is still doing to create an ideal
+paradise for the angler among these mountains and plateaus.</div>
+
+<p>There was a time, and this too in comparatively recent
+geological eras, when the waters of that region now under
+consideration abounded with fish of many species. The clumsy
+catfish floundered along the shallows and reedy bayous in company
+with the solemn red-horse and a long line of other fishes of present and
+past generations. The lordly salmon found ideal spawning grounds
+in the gravelly beds of the streams draining to the westward, and
+doubtless came hither annually in great numbers. It may be that
+the habit of the Columbia river salmon to return yearly from the
+Pacific and ascend that stream was bred into the species during the
+days when its waters ran in an uninterrupted channel from source
+to sea. It is true that elsewhere salmon manifest this anadromous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>
+impulse in as marked a degree as in the Columbia and its tributaries, yet, the conclusion that these
+heroic pilgrimages are <i>habit</i> resulting from similar movements, accidental at first, but extending over
+countless years, is natural, and probably correct. When one sees these noble fish congested by thousands
+at the foot of some waterfall up which not one in a hundred is able to leap, or observes them
+ascending the brooks in the distant mountains where there is not sufficient water to cover them,
+gasping, bleeding, dying, but pushing upward with their last breath, the figure of the crusaders in
+quest of an ancient patrimony arises in the mind, so strong is the simile and so active is your sympathy
+with the fish.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i-06.jpg" width="400" height="304" alt="Mammoth Hot Springs" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Mammoth Hot Springs</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In those distant days the altitude of this region was not great, nor was the ocean as remote from
+its borders as now. The forces which already had lifted considerable
+areas above the sea and fashioned them into an embryo continent
+were still at work. The earth-shell, yet soft and
+plastic, was not strong enough to resist the double strain
+caused by its cooling, shrinking outer crust and the
+expanding, molten interior. Volcanic eruptions, magnificent
+in extent, resulted and continued at intervals
+throughout the Pliocene period. These eruptions were
+accompanied by prodigious outpours of lava that
+altered the topography of the entire mountain section.
+Nowhere else in all creation has such an amount of
+matter been forced up from the interior of the earth to
+flow in red-hot rivers to the distant seas as in the western
+part of the United States. What a panorama of flame it
+was, and what a sublime impression it must have made on
+the minds of the primeval men who witnessed it from afar as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>
+they paddled their canoes over the troubled waters
+that reflected the red-litten heavens beneath them!
+Is it remarkable that the geyser region of the Park
+is a place of evil repute among the savages and a
+thing to be passed by on the other side, even to
+the present day?</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 345px;">
+<img src="images/i-07.jpg" width="345" height="301" alt="Detail from Jupiter Terrace" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail from Jupiter Terrace</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When the elemental forces subsided the waters
+were fishless, and all aquatic life had been destroyed
+in the creation of the glories of the Park
+and its surroundings. Streams that once had their
+origins in sluggish, lily-laden lagoons, now took
+their sources from the lofty continental plateaus.
+In reaching the lower levels these streams, in
+most instances, fell over cataracts so high as to be
+impassable to fish, thus precluding their being restocked
+by natural processes. From this cause the
+upper Gardiner, the Gibbon and the Firehole rivers
+and their tributaries&mdash;streams oftenest seen by the tourist&mdash;were found to contain no trout when man
+entered upon the scene. From a sportsman's viewpoint the troutless condition of the very choicest
+waters was fortunate, as it left them free for the planting of such varieties as are best adapted to the
+food and character of each stream.</p>
+
+<p>The blob or miller's thumb existed in the Gibbon river, and perhaps in other streams, above the
+falls. Its presence in such places is due to its ability to ascend very precipitous water courses by means
+of the filamentous algae which usually border such torrents. I once discovered specimens of this odd
+fish in the algous growth covering the rocky face of the falls of the Des Chutes river, at Tumwater, in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>
+state of Washington, and there is little doubt that they
+do ascend nearly vertical walls where the conditions are
+favorable.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 295px;">
+<img src="images/i-08.jpg" width="295" height="399" alt="Tumwater Falls" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Tumwater Falls</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The presence of the red-throat trout of the Snake
+river in the head waters of the Missouri is easily explained
+by the imperfect character of the water-shed between the
+Snake and Yellowstone rivers. Atlantic Creek, tributary
+to the Yellowstone, and Pacific Creek, tributary to the
+Snake, both rise in the same marshy meadow on the
+continental divide. From this it is argued that, during
+the sudden melting of heavy snows in early times, it was
+possible for specimens to cross from one side to the other,
+and it is claimed that an interchange of individuals might
+occur by this route at the present day.<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> Certain it is that
+these courageous fish exhibit the same disregard for their
+lives that is spoken of previously as characteristic of their
+congeners, the salmon. Trout are frequently found lying
+dead on the grass of a pasture or meadow where they
+were stranded the night previous in an attempt to explore<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>
+a rivulet caused by a passing shower. The mortality among fish of this species in irrigated districts is
+alarming. At each opening of the sluice gates they go out with the current and perish in the fields.
+Unless there is a more rigid enforcement of the law requiring that the opening into the ditches be
+screened, trout must soon disappear from the irrigated sections.</p>
+
+<p>The supposition that these fish have crossed the continental divide, as it were, overland, serves the
+double purpose of explaining the presence of the trout, and the absence of the chub, sucker and white-fish
+of the Snake River from Yellowstone Lake. The latter are feeble fish at best, and generally display
+a preference for the quiet waters of the deeper pools where they feed near the bottom and with little
+exertion. Neither the chub, sucker nor white-fish possesses enough hardihood to undertake so precarious
+a journey nor sufficient vitality to survive it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 403px;">
+<img src="images/i-09.jpg" width="403" height="301" alt="Gibbon Falls" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Gibbon Falls</span>
+<br /><br /></div><div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Note</span>&mdash;"As already stated, the trout of Yellowstone Lake certainly
+came into the Missouri basin by way of Two-Ocean Pass from the Upper
+Snake River basin. One of the present writers has caught them in the
+very act of going over Two-Ocean Pass from Pacific into Atlantic drainage.
+The trout of the two sides of the pass cannot be separated, and constitute
+a single species."
+</p><div class='sig'>
+Jordan &amp; Evermann.<br />
+</div></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h2><i>THE TROUT&mdash;NATIVE AND PLANTED</i></h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 267px;">
+<img src="images/i-10.jpg" width="267" height="336" alt="A Place to be Remembered" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Place to be Remembered</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class='unindent'><br /><br /><br />O MANY people a trout is merely a <i>trout</i>, with no distinction
+as to variety or origin; and some there be who know him
+only as a <i>fish</i>, to be eaten without grace and with much
+gossip. Again, there are those who have written at great
+length of this and that species and sub-species, with many
+words and nice distinctions relative to vomerine teeth, branchiostegal
+rays and other anatomical differences. I would not lead
+you, even if your patience permitted, along the tedious path of
+the scientist, but will follow the middle path and note only such
+differences in the members of this interesting family as may be
+apparent to the unpracticed eye and by which the novice may
+distinguish between the varieties that come to his creel.</div>
+
+<p>In a letter to Doctor David Starr Jordan, in September,
+1889, Hon. Marshall McDonald, then U. S. Commissioner of
+Fish and Fisheries, wrote, "I have proposed to undertake
+to stock these waters with different species of Salmonidae,
+reserving a distinct river basin for each." Every one
+will commend the wisdom of the original intent as it existed
+in the mind of Mr. McDonald. It implied that a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>
+careful study would be made of the waters of each basin to
+determine the volume and character of the current, its temperature,
+the depth to which it froze during the sub-arctic winters,
+and the kinds and quantities of fish-food found in each. With
+this data well established, and knowing, as fish culturists have
+for centuries, what conditions are favorable to the most desirable
+kinds of trout, there was a field for experimentation and
+improvement probably not existing elsewhere.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 286px;">
+<img src="images/i-11.jpg" width="286" height="197" alt="Willow Park Camp" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Willow Park Camp</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 330px;">
+<img src="images/i-12.jpg" width="330" height="245" alt="Klahowya" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Klahowya</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The commission began its labors in 1889, and the record for
+that year shows among other plants, the placing of a
+quantity of Loch Leven trout in the Firehole above the
+Kepler Cascade. The year following nearly ten thousand
+German trout fry were planted in Nez Perce Creek, the principal tributary of the Firehole. Either
+the agents of the commission authorized to make these plants
+were ignorant of the purpose of the Commissioner at Washington,
+or they did not know with what immunity fish will
+pass over the highest falls. Whatever the reason for this
+error, the die is cast, and the only streams that have a single
+distinct variety are the upper Gardiner and its tributaries,
+where the eastern brook trout has the field, or rather the
+waters, to himself. The first attempt to stock any stream
+was a transfer of the native trout of another stream to Lava
+Creek above the falls. I mention this because the presence
+of the native trout in this locality has led some to believe
+that they were there from the first, and thus constituted an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>
+exception to the rule that no trout
+were found in streams above vertical
+waterfalls.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i-13.jpg" width="600" height="389" alt="On the Trail to Grizzly Lake" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Little Firehole</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p>Many are confused by the variety
+of names applied to the native trout
+of the Yellowstone, <i>Salmo lewisi</i>.
+Red-throat trout, cut-throat trout,
+black-spotted trout, mountain trout,
+Rocky Mountain trout, salmon trout,
+and a host of other less generally
+known local names have been applied<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>
+to him. This is in a measure due to the widely different localities and conditions under which he is found,
+and to the very close resemblance he bears to his first cousins, <i>Salmo clarkii</i>, of the streams flowing into the
+Pacific from northern California to southern Alaska; and to <i>Salmo mykiss</i> of the Kamchatkan rivers.
+Perhaps the very abundance of this trout has cheapened the estimate in which he is held by some
+anglers. Nevertheless, he is a royal fish. In streams with rapid currents he is always a hard fighter, and
+his meat is high-colored and well-flavored.</p>
+
+<p>The name "black-spotted" trout describes this fish more accurately than any other of his cognomens.
+The spots are carbon-black and have none of the vermilion and purple colors that characterize
+the brook trout. The spots are not, however, always uniform in size and number. In some instances
+they are entirely wanting on the anterior part of the body, but their absence is not sufficiently important
+to constitute a varietal distinction. The red dash under the throat (inner edge of the mandible)
+from which the names "cut-throat" and "red-throat" are derived, is never absent in specimens taken
+here, and, as no other trout of this locality is so marked, it affords the tyro an unfailing means of
+determining the nature of his catch.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 343px;">
+<img src="images/i-14.jpg" width="343" height="302" alt="The Path Through the Pines" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Path Through the Pines</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>If the eastern brook trout, <i>Salvelinus fontinalis</i>, could read and
+understand but a part of the praises that have been sung of him in
+prose and verse through all the years, what a pampered princeling
+and nuisance he would become! But to his credit, he has gone on
+being the same sensible, shrewd, wary and delightful fish, adapting
+himself to all sorts of mountain streams, lakes, ponds and rivers, and
+always giving the largest returns to the angler in the way of health
+and happiness. The literature concerning the methods employed
+in his capture alone would make a library in which we should find
+the names of soldiers, statesmen and sovereigns, and the great of
+the earth. Aelian, who lived in the second century A. D., describes,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>
+in his <i>De Animalium Natura</i>, how the Macedonians
+took a fish with speckled skin from
+a certain river by means of a hook tied
+about with red wool, to which were fitted
+two feathers from a cock's wattle. More
+than four hundred years prior to this
+Theocritus mentioned a method of fishing
+with a "fallacious bait suspended from a
+rod," but unfortunately failed to tell us how
+the fly was made. If by any chance you
+have never met the brook trout you may
+know him infallibly from his brethren by
+the dark olive, worm-like lines, technically
+called "vermiculations," along the back, as
+he alone displays these heraldic markings.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 392px;">
+<img src="images/i-15.jpg" width="392" height="282" alt="The Melan Bridge" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Melan Bridge</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Throughout the northwest the brown
+trout, <i>Salmo fario</i>, is generally known as the "von Behr"
+trout, from the name of the German fish-culturist who sent the first shipment of their eggs to this country.
+This fish may be distinguished at sight by the coarse scales which give his body a dark grayish
+appearance, slightly resembling a mullet, and by the large dull red spots along the lateral line. There
+are also three beautiful red spots on the adipose fin.</p>
+
+<p>The Loch Leven trout, <i>Salmo levenensis</i>, comes from a lake of that name in southern Scotland.
+He is a canny, uncertain fellow, and nothing like as hardy as we might expect from his origin. In the
+Park waters he has not justified the fame for gameness which he brings from abroad, but there are
+occasions, particularly in the vicinity of the Lone Star geyser, when he comes on with a very pretty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>
+rush. In general appearance he somewhat resembles
+the von Behr trout, but is a more graceful and finely
+organized fish than the latter. He is the only trout
+of this locality that has no red on his body, and its
+absence is sufficient to distinguish him from all others.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 369px;">
+<img src="images/i-16.jpg" width="369" height="249" alt="Distant View of Mt. Holmes" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Distant View of Mt. Holmes</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>No one can possibly mistake the rainbow trout,
+<i>Salmo irideus</i>, for any other species. The large,
+brilliant spots with which his silvery-bluish body is
+covered, and that filmy iridescence so admired
+by every one, will identify him anywhere. There
+is, however, a marked difference in the brilliance
+of this iridescence between fish of different ages
+as well as between stream-raised and hatchery-bred
+specimens, and even among fish from the
+upper and lower courses of the same stream.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 275px;">
+<img src="images/i-17.jpg" width="275" height="200" alt="Learning to Cast" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Learning to Cast</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The question as to which is the more beautiful, the rainbow
+or the brook trout, has often been debated with much feeling by
+their respective champions, and will doubtless remain undecided
+so long as both may be taken from clear-flowing brooks, where
+sky and landscape blend with the soul of man to make him as
+supremely happy as it is ever the lot of mortals to become. For
+it is the joy within and around you that supplies a mingled
+pleasure far deeper than that afforded by the mere beauty of the
+fish. You will remember that "Doctor Boteler" said of the
+strawberry, "Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>
+doubtless God never did." So, I have said at different times of <i>both</i> brook
+and rainbow trout, "Doubtless God could have made a more beautiful fish
+than this, but doubtless God never did."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/i-18.jpg" width="300" height="237" alt="Scene on the Gibbon River" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Scene on the Gibbon River</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 203px;">
+<img src="images/i-18b.jpg" width="203" height="288" alt="Above Kepler Cascade" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Above Kepler Cascade</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>During a recent trip through the Rocky Mountains I remained over night
+in a town of considerable mining importance. In the evening I walked up
+the main street passing an almost unbroken line of saloons, gambling
+houses and dance halls, then crossed the street to return, and found
+the same conditions on that side, except that, if possible, the crowds
+were noisier. Just before reaching the hotel, I came upon a small
+restaurant in the window of which was an aquarium containing a number
+of rainbow trout. One beautiful fish rested quivering, pulsating, resplendent, poised apparently
+in mid air, while the rays from an electric light within were so refracted
+that they formed an aureola about the fish, seemingly transfiguring it. I
+paused long in meditation on the scene, till aroused from my revery by
+the blare of a graphophone from a resort across the street. It sang:</p>
+
+<div class='poem'>
+"Last night as I lay sleeping, there came a dream so fair,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I stood in old Jerusalem, beside the temple there;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I heard the children singing and ever as they sang</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Methought the voice of angels from heaven in answer rang,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Jerusalem, Jerusalem, lift up your gates and sing</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Hosanna in the highest, hosanna to your king."</span><br />
+</div>
+
+<p>I made the sign of Calvary in the vapor on the glass and departed
+into the night pondering of many things.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>LETS GO A-FISHING</i></h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"No man is in perfect condition to enjoy scenery unless he
+has a fly-rod in his hand and a fly-hook in his pocket."</p>
+
+<div class='sig'>
+<i>Wm. C. Prime</i><br />
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 366px;">
+<img src="images/i-19.jpg" width="366" height="302" alt="Lower Falls of the Yellowstone" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Lower Falls of the Yellowstone</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class='unindent'><br /><br /><br />ANY who know these mountains and valleys best
+have gained their knowledge with a rod in hand,
+and you will hear these individuals often express
+surprise that a greater number of tourists do not
+avail themselves of the splendid opportunities
+offered for fishing. In no other way can so much
+pleasure be found on the trip, and by no other means
+can you put yourself so immediately and completely
+in sympathy with the spirit of the wilderness. Besides,
+it is this doing something more than being a
+mere passenger that gives the real interest and zest to
+existence and that yields the best returns in the
+memories of delightful days. The ladies may be
+taken along without the least inconvenience and
+to the greater enjoyment of the outing. What
+if the good dame has never seen an artificial fly!
+Take her anyway, if she will go, and we will make her acquainted with streams where she shall have
+moderate success if she but stand in the shadow of the willows and tickle the surface of the pool with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>
+single fly. You will feel mutually grateful, each for the presence of the other; and, depend upon it,
+it will make the recollection doubly enjoyable.</div>
+
+<p>We shall never know and name all the hot springs and geysers of this wonderland, but we may become
+acquainted with the voice of a stream and know it as the speech of a friend. We may establish
+fairly intimate relations with the creatures of the wood and be admitted to some sort of brotherhood with
+them if we conduct ourselves becomingly. The timid grouse will acknowledge the caress of our bamboo
+with an arching of the neck, and the beaver will bring for our inspection his freight of willow or alder,
+and will at times swim confidently between our legs when we are wading in deep water.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 346px;">
+<img src="images/i-20.jpg" width="346" height="256" alt="The Black Giant Geyser" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Black Giant Geyser</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The author of "Little Rivers" draws this pleasing picture of the delights of fishing: "You never get
+so close to the birds as when you are wading quietly down a little river, casting your fly deftly under the
+branches for the wary trout, but ever on the lookout for all the pleasant things that nature has to bestow
+upon you. Here you shall come upon the catbird at her morning bath, and hear her sing, in a clump
+of pussy-willows, that low, tender, confidential song which she keeps for the hours of domestic intimacy.
+The spotted sand-piper will run along the stones before you,
+crying, 'wet-feet, wet-feet!' and bowing and teetering in the
+friendliest manner, as if to show you the best pools."
+Surely, if this invitation move you not, no voice of
+mine will serve to stir your laggard legs.</p>
+
+<p>One should not, however, go to the wilderness
+and expect it to receive him at once with open arms.
+It was there before him and will remain long after
+he is forgotten. But approach it humbly and its
+asperities will soften and in time become akin to affection.
+As one looks for the first time through the black,
+basaltic archway at the entrance to the Park, the nearby<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>
+mountains have an air of distance and unfriendliness, nor do
+they speedily assume a more sympathetic relation toward the
+visitor. A region in which the world's formative forces linger
+ten thousand years after they have disappeared elsewhere will
+make no hasty alliance with strangers. The heavy foot of time
+treads so slowly here that one must come often and with observant
+eye to note the advance from season to season and to
+feel that he has any part or interest in it.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 285px;">
+<img src="images/i-21.jpg" width="285" height="233" alt="Park Gateway" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Park Gateway</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When we can judge correctly from the height of the up-springing
+vegetation whether the forest fire that blackened
+this hillside raged one year ago or ten; when we have noted
+that the bowl of this terrace, increasing in height by the
+insensible deposit of carbonate of lime from the overflowing
+waters, appears to outstrip from year to year the growth of the
+neighboring cedars; when these and a multitude of kindred phenomena are comprehended, how interested
+we become!</p>
+
+<p>Nothing said here is intended to encourage undue familiarity with the wild game. "Shinny on your
+own side," is a good motto with any game, and more than one can testify of sudden and unexpected
+trouble brought on themselves by meddlesomeness. In following an elk trail through the woods one
+afternoon, I found a pine tree had fallen across the path making a barrier about hip-high. While
+looking about to see whether any elk had gone over the trail since the tree fell, and, if so, whether
+they had leaped the barrier or had passed around it by way of the root or top, a squirrel with a pine
+cone in his teeth, sprang on the butt of the tree and came jauntily along the log. Some twenty feet away
+he spied me, and suddenly his whole manner and bearing changed. He dropped the cone and came on
+with a bow-legged, swaggering air, the very embodiment of insolent proprietorship. The top of my rod<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>
+extended over the log, and as he came under it I gave him a
+smart switch across the back. Now, there had been nothing
+in my previous acquaintance with squirrels to lead me
+to think them other than most timid animals. But the
+slight blow of the rod-tip transformed this one into a Fury.
+With a peculiar half-bark, half-scream, he leaped at my face
+and slashed at my neck and ears with his powerful jaws.
+So strong was he that I could not drag him loose when his
+teeth were buried in my coat collar. I finally choked him
+till he loosened his hold and flung him ten feet away. Back
+he came to the attack with the speed of a wild cat. It was
+either retreat for me or death to the squirrel, and I retreated.
+Never before had I witnessed such an exhibition
+of diabolical malevolence, and, though I have laughed over
+it since, I was too much upset for an hour afterward to
+see the funny side of the encounter.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 298px;">
+<img src="images/i-22.jpg" width="298" height="389" alt="Bear Cubs Photo by F. J. Haynes" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Bear Cubs<br />Photo by F. J. Haynes</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The ways of the wilderness have ever been pleasant
+to my feet, and whether it was taking the ouananiche
+in Canada or the Beardslee trout in the shadow of the
+Olympics, it has all been good. Without detracting from
+the sport afforded by any other locality, I honestly believe
+that, taking into consideration climate, comfort, scenery,
+environment, and the opportunities for observing wild life, this region has no equal for trout fishing
+under the sun. I am aware that he who praises the fishing on any stream will ever have two classes
+of critics&mdash;the unthinking and the unsuccessful. To these I would say, "Whether your success shall<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>
+be greater or less than mine will depend upon the conditions of weather and stream and on your own
+skill, and none of these do I control." In that splendid book, "Fly-Rods and Fly-Tackle," Mr. Henry
+P. Wells relates an instance in which he and his guide took an angler to a distant lake with the certain
+promise and expectation of fine fishing. After recording the keen disappointment he felt that not a
+single trout would show itself, he says, "Then I vowed a vow, which I commend to the careful consideration
+of all anglers, old and new alike&mdash;never again, under any circumstances, will I recommend any fishing
+locality in terms substantially stronger than these 'At that place I have done so and so; under like
+conditions it is believed that you can repeat it.' We are apt to speak of a place and the sport it affords
+as we found it, whereas reflection and
+experience should teach us that it is
+seldom exactly the same, even for two
+successive days."</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 445px;">
+<img src="images/i-23.jpg" width="445" height="296" alt="Elk In Winter Photo by F. J. Haynes" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Elk In Winter<br />Photo by F. J. Haynes</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is a large number of fly-fishermen
+in the east who sincerely
+believe that the best sport cannot be
+had in the streams of the Rocky
+Mountains, and this belief has a grain
+of truth when the fishing is confined
+solely to native trout and to streams
+of indifferent interest. But when the
+waters flow through such picturesque
+surroundings as are found in the
+Yellowstone National Park, when
+from among these waters one may
+select the stream that shall furnish<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>
+the trout he loves most to take, the objection is most fully answered. The writer can attest how difficult
+it was to outgrow the conviction that a certain brook of the Alleghanies had no equal, but he now gladly
+concedes that there are streams in the west just as prolific of fish and as pleasant to look upon as the
+one he followed in boyhood. It is proper enough to maintain that: "The fields are greenest where our
+childish feet have strayed," but when we permit a mere sentiment to prevent the fullest enjoyment of
+the later opportunities of life, your beautiful sentiment becomes a harmful prejudice.</p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 410px;">
+<img src="images/i-24.jpg" width="410" height="304" alt="Having Eaten and Drunk" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Having Eaten and Drunk</span>
+</div>
+<p>When the prophet required Naaman to go down and bathe in the river Jordan, Naaman was exceeding
+wroth, and exclaimed, "Are not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better than any in Israel?"
+The record hath it that Naaman went and bathed in the
+Jordan, and that his <i>body</i> was healed of its <i>leprosy</i> and
+his <i>mind</i> of its <i>conceit</i>. So, when my angling friend
+from New Brunswick inquires whether I have
+fished the Waskahegan or have tried the lower
+pools of the Assametaquaghan for salmon, I am
+compelled to answer <i>no</i>. But there comes a
+longing to give him a day's outing on Hell-Roaring
+Creek or to see him a-foul of a five-pound
+von Behr trout amid the steam of the
+Riverside Geyser. The streams of Maine and
+Canada are delightful and possess a charm that
+lingers in the mind like the minor chords of
+almost forgotten music, but they cannot be
+compared with the full-throated torrents of
+the Absarokas. As well liken a fugue with
+flute and cymbals to an oratorio with
+bombardon and sky-rockets!</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<div class='poem'>
+Who hath seen the beaver busied? Who hath watched the black-tail mating?<br />
+Who hath lain alone to hear the wild-goose cry?<br />
+Who hath worked the chosen water where the ouananiche is waiting,<br />
+Or the sea-trout's jumping-crazy for the fly?<br />
+He must go&mdash;go&mdash;go&mdash;away from here!<br />
+On the other side the world he's overdue.<br />
+'Send your road is clear before you when the old Spring-fret comes o'er you<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And the Red Gods call for you!</span><br />
+<br />
+Do you know the blackened timber&mdash;do you know that racing stream<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With the raw right-angled log-jam at the end:</span><br />
+And the bar of sun-warmed shingle where a man may bask and dream<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To the click of shod canoe poles round the bend?</span><br />
+It is there that we are going with our rods and reels and traces,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To a silent smoky Indian that we know&mdash;</span><br />
+To a couch of new-pulled hemlock with the starlight on our faces,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For the Red Gods call us out and we must go!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 13em;">The Feet of the Young Men&mdash;<i>Kipling.</i></span><br />
+<br /><br /></div>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 252px;">
+<img src="images/i-25.jpg" width="252" height="335" alt="Who Hath Seen the Beaver Busied? Photo by Biological Survey" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Who Hath Seen the Beaver Busied?<br />Photo by<br />Biological Survey</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><i>A CHAPTER ON TROUT FLIES</i></h2>
+
+<div class='blockquot'><p>"Thyse ben xij. flyes wyth whytch ye shall
+angle to ye trought and graylling, and dubbe
+lyke as ye shall now hear me tell."</p>
+
+<div class="sig">
+<i>Dame Juliana Berners.</i><br />
+</div></div>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 279px;">
+<img src="images/i-26.jpg" width="279" height="211" alt="Water is the Master Mason" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Water is the Master Mason</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="unindent"><br /><br /><br />IVE centuries have passed since the dignified
+and devout prioress of St. Albans indited the
+above sentence, and the tribute to the sterling
+good sense therein is that the growing years
+have but added to its authority. A dozen well
+selected varieties of flies, dubbe them how ye
+lyke, are well-nigh sufficient for any locality.
+There may be streams that require a wider range
+of choice, but these are so rare that they may
+safely be considered as exceptional. Not that
+any particular harm has resulted from the unreasonable
+increase in the number and varieties
+of artificial flies. They amuse and gratify the
+tyro and in no wise disturb the master of the
+art. But an over-plethoric fly book in the
+possession of a stranger will, with the knowing,
+place the angling ability of the owner under suspicion. Better a thousand-fold, are the single half-dozen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>
+flies the uses and seasons of which are fully understood than a multitude of meaningless creations.</div>
+
+<p>The angler should strive to attain an intelligent understanding of the principal features of the artificial
+fly and how a change in the form and color of these features affects the behavior of the fish for which he
+angles. In studying this matter men have gone down in diving suits that they might better see the fly
+as it appeared when presented to the fish, and there is nothing in their reports to encourage extremely
+fine niceties in fly-dressing. One may know a great deal of artists and their work and yet truly know
+but little of the value of <i>art</i> itself; or have been a great reader of economics, and yet have little practical
+knowledge of that complex product of society called <i>civilization</i>. So, I had rather possess the knowledge
+a dear friend of mine has of Dickens, Shakespeare, and the Bible alone than to be able to discuss
+"literature" in general before clubs and societies.</p>
+
+<p>Several years of angling experience in the far west have convinced the writer that flies of full bodies
+and positive colors are the most killing, and that the palmers are slightly better than the hackles. Of
+the standard patterns of flies the most successful are the coachman, royal coachman, black hackle,
+Parmacheene Belle, with the silver doctor for lake fishing, in the order named. The trout here, with
+the exception of those in Lake Yellowstone, are fairly vigorous fighters, and it is important that your
+tackle should be strong and sure rather than elegant.</p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i-27.jpg" width="600" height="384" alt="Following a Little River At the Head of the Meadow" title="" />
+<span class="caption">At the Head of the Meadow</span>
+</div>
+<p>With a view of determining whether it were possible to make a fly that would answer nearly all
+the needs of the mountain fisherman, I began, in 1897, a series of experiments in fly-tying that continued
+over a period of five years. The result is the production of what is widely known in the west as
+the Pitcher fly. As before indicated, this fly did not spring full panoplied into being, but was evolved from
+standard types by gradual modifications. The body is a furnace hackle, tied palmer; tail of barred
+wood-duck feather; wing snow-white, to which is added a blue cheek. The name, "Pitcher," was given
+to it as a compliment to Major John Pitcher, who, as acting superintendent of the Yellowstone National
+Park, has done much to improve the quality of the fishing in these streams.</p>
+
+<p>From a dozen states anglers have written testifying to the killing qualities of the Pitcher Fly, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>
+the extracts following show that its
+success is not confined to any locality
+nor to any single species of trout:</p>
+
+<p>"The Pitcher flies you gave me have
+aided me in filling my twenty-pound
+basket three times in the last three
+weeks. Have had the best sport this
+season I have ever enjoyed on the
+Coeur d'Alene waters, and I can truthfully
+say I owe it all to the
+Pitcher fly and its designer."</p>
+
+<div class="sig">
+<span style="margin-right: 2.5em;"><span class="smcap">E. R. Denny</span>,</span><br />
+Wallace, Idaho.<br />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 294px;">
+<img src="images/i-28.jpg" width="294" height="444" alt="The Tongue River Photo by N. H. Darton" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Tongue River<br />
+Photo by N. H. Darton</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"One afternoon I had put up my rod and strolled down
+to the river where one of our party was whipping a pool
+of the Big Hole, trying to induce a fish to strike. He said:
+'There's an old villain in there; he wants to strike but can't
+make up his mind to do it.' I said: 'I have a fly that will
+make him strike,' and as I had my book in my pocket I
+handed him a No. 8 Pitcher. He made two casts and
+hooked a beautiful trout, that weighed nineteen ounces,
+down. I regard the Pitcher as the best killer in my book."</p>
+
+<div class='sig'>
+<span class="smcap">J. E. Monroe</span>, Dillon, Montana.<br />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 285px;">
+<img src="images/i-29.jpg" width="285" height="226" alt="Talking It Over" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Talking It Over</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"I determined to follow the stream up into the mountains,
+but as I neared the woods at the upper end of the
+meadow I stopped to cast into a long, straight reach of the
+river where the breeze from the ocean was rippling the surface
+of the stream. The grassy bank rose steep behind me
+and only a little fringe of wild roses partly concealed me
+from the water. I cast the Pitcher flies you gave me well
+out on the rough water, allowed them to sink a hand-breadth,
+and at the first movement of the line I saw that heart-expanding
+flash of a broad silver side gleaming from the
+clear depths. The trout fastened on savagely, and as he
+was coming my way, I assisted his momentum with all
+the spring of the rod, and he came flying out into the
+clean, fresh grass of the meadow behind me. It was a half-pound<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>
+speckled brook trout. I did not stop
+to pouch him, but cast again. In a moment
+I was fast to another such, and again I
+sprung him bodily out, glistening like a
+silver ingot, to where his brother lay. In
+my first twelve casts I took ten such fish,
+all from ten to twelve inches long, mostly
+without any playing. I took twenty-two
+fine fish without missing one strike, and
+landed every one safely. I was not an
+hour in taking the lot. Then oddly enough,
+I whipped the water for fifty yards without
+another rise. Satisfied that the circus was over, I climbed up
+into the meadow and gathered the spoils into my basket.
+Nearly all were brook trout, but two or three silvery salmon trout
+among them had struck quite as gamely. I had such a weight
+of fish as I never took before on the Nekanicum in our most
+fortunate fishing."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 399px;">
+<img src="images/i-30.jpg" width="399" height="298" alt="Beaver Dam and Reservoir" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Beaver Dam and Reservoir</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class='center'>*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>
+
+
+<p>"Walking back along the trail, I came again to the long<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>
+reach where I had my luck an hour before,
+and cast again to see if there might be
+another fish. Two silver glints shone up
+through the waves in the same instant.
+I struck one of the two fish, though I
+might have had both if I had left the
+flies unmoved the fraction of a second.
+Three times I refused such doublets, for
+I had not changed an inch of tackle, and
+scarcely even looked the casting line over.
+It was no time to allow two good fish to
+go raking that populous pool. However
+I did take chances with one doublet.
+So out of the same lucky spot on my
+return, I took ten more fish each about a
+foot long. I brought nearly every one
+flying out as I struck him, and I never
+put such a merciless strain on a rod before.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 457px;">
+<img src="images/i-31.jpg" width="457" height="413" alt="&quot;That Populous Pool&quot;    Photo by John Gill" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;That Populous Pool&quot;<br /> Photo by John Gill</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"I had concluded again that the new tenantry had all been
+evicted, and was casting 'most extended' trying the powers
+of the rod and reaching, I should say, sixty feet out. As the
+flies came half-way in and I was just about snatching them out
+for a long back cast, the father of the family soared after them
+in a gleaming arc. He missed by not three inches and bored his
+way straight down into the depths of the clear green water. 'My heart went out to him,' as our friend<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>
+Wells said, but coaxing was in vain. I tried them above and below, sinking the flies deeply, or
+dropping them airily upon the waves, but to no purpose. I had the comforting thought that we may
+pick him up when you are here this summer."</p>
+
+<div class='sig'>
+<span class="smcap">John Gill</span>, Portland, Oregon.<br />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><i>THE BONNY RED HECKLE</i></h2>
+
+<div class='poem'>
+Away frae the smoke an' the smother,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Away frae the crush o' the thrang!</span><br />
+Away frae the labour an' pother<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That have fettered our freedom sae lang!</span><br />
+For the May's i' full bloom i' the hedges<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And the laverock's aloft i' the blue,</span><br />
+An' the south wind sings low i' the sedges,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By haughs that are silvery wi' dew.</span><br />
+Up, angler, off wi' each shackle!<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Up, gad and gaff, and awa'!</span><br />
+Cry 'Hurrah for the canny red heckle,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The heckle that tackled them a'!'</span><br />
+</div>
+
+<div class='center'>*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>
+
+
+<div class='poem'>
+Then back to the smoke and the smother,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The uproar and crush o' the thrang;</span><br />
+An' back to the labour and pother,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But happy and hearty and strang.</span><br />
+Wi' a braw light o' mountain and muirland,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Outflashing frae forehead and e'e,</span><br />
+Wi' a blessing flung back to the norland,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">An' a thousand, dear Coquet, to thee!</span><br />
+As again we resume the old shackle,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Our gad an' our gaff stowed awa',</span><br />
+An'&mdash;goodbye to the canny 'red heckle,'<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The heckle that tackled them a'!'</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">&mdash;From "The Lay of the Lea." By <i>Thomas Westwood</i>.</span><br />
+<br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><span class="smcap">Note</span>&mdash;I am indebted to Mrs. Mary Orvis Marbury, author of "Favorite Flies," for copies of "Hey for Coquet," and
+"Farewell to Coquet," from the former of which the foregoing are extracts.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span></p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><i>GRIZZLY LAKE AND LAKE ROSE</i></h2>
+
+<div class='poem'>
+"And best of all, through twilight's calm<br />
+The hermit-thrush repeats his psalm."<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 12.5em;"><i>Henry Van Dyke</i></span><br />
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 425px;">
+<img src="images/i-32.jpg" width="425" height="302" alt="Grizzly Lake" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Grizzly Lake</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class='unindent'><br /><br /><br />RIZZLY LAKE lies secluded among the
+timbered hills, four miles south&mdash;south and
+west&mdash;from Willow Park. The long narrow
+bed of the lake was furrowed by a
+glacier that once debouched here from
+the mountains to the west, and through
+the gravel and detritus that surround it
+the melting snows and rain are filtered
+till the water is fit for the Olympian
+deities. No more profitable place can be
+found for the angler to visit. The lake swarms
+with brook trout weighing from one to
+five pounds, and in the ice-cold water
+which is supplied with an abundance of
+insect and crustacean food the fish are in
+prime condition after July first. The best
+fishing is at the southern end, near where Straight Creek enters the lake. A little investigation will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>
+discover close at hand, several large springs that
+flow into the lake at this point, and here the trout
+congregate after the spawning season.</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 347px;">
+<img src="images/i-33.jpg" width="347" height="294" alt="Lake Rose" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Lake Rose</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In order to reach this location conveniently, I,
+early in 1902, constructed a light raft of dry pine
+logs, about six by ten feet, well spiked together
+with drift bolts; since which time other parties
+have added a substantial row boat. Both the boat
+and the raft may be found at the lower end of the
+lake, just where the trail brings you to it. The
+canvas boat that was set up on the lake earlier,
+was destroyed the first winter by bears, but the
+boat and raft now there will probably hold their
+own against the beasts of the field for some time.
+If you use either of them you will, of course, return
+it to the outlet of the lake, that he who cometh
+after may also enjoy.</p>
+
+<p>The route to Grizzly Lake follows very closely the Bannock
+Indian trail from the point where Straight Creek enters the meadows of Willow Park to the outlet of
+the lake. The trail itself is interesting. It was the great Indian thoroughfare between Idaho and the
+Big Horn Basin in Wyoming, and was doubtless an ancient one at the time the Romans dominated
+Britain. How plainly the record tells you that it was made by an aboriginal people. Up hill and
+down hill, across marsh or meadow, it is always a single trail, trodden into furrow-like distinctness
+by moccasined feet. Nowhere does it permit the going abreast of the beasts of draft or burden. At
+no place does it suggest the side-by-side travel of the white man for companionship's sake, nor the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>
+hand-in-hand converse of mother and
+child, lover and maid. Ease your
+pony a moment here and dream.
+Here comes the silent procession on
+its way to barter in the land of the
+stranger, and here again it will return
+in the autumn, as it has done for a
+thousand years. In the van are the
+blanketed braves, brimful of in-toeing,
+painful dignity. Behind these
+follow the ponies drawing the lodge-poles
+and camp outfit, and then come
+the squaws and the children. Just
+there is a bend in the trail and the
+lodge-poles have abraded the tree in
+the angle till it is worn half through.
+A little further on, in an open glade,
+they camped for the night. Decades
+have come and gone since the last
+Indian party passed this way, yet a cycle hence the trail will be distinct at intervals.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
+<img src="images/i-34.jpg" width="448" height="296" alt="The Bighorn Range Photo by N. H. Darton" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Bighorn Range Photo by N. H. Darton</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>By turning to the west at Winter Creek and passing over the sharp hills that border that stream
+you will come, at the end of a nine-mile journey, to Lake Rose. The way is upward through groves of
+pane, thickets of aspen, and steep open glades surrounded by silver fir trees that would be the delight
+of a landscape gardener if he could cause them to grow in our city parks as they do here. Elk
+are everywhere. We ride through and around bands of them, male, female, and odd-shapen calves with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>
+wobbly legs and luminous, questioning
+eyes. As you pause now and then to
+contemplate some new view of the
+wilderness unfolding before you, the
+beauty, and freedom and serenity of
+it are irresistible, and you comprehend
+for the first time the spirit of
+the Argonauts of '49 and the nobility
+of the p&aelig;an they chanted to express
+their exalted brotherhood:</p>
+
+<div class='poem'>
+"The days of old,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">The days of gold,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">The days of '49."</span><br />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i-35.jpg" width="600" height="386" alt="Gorge of the Firehole River and A Wooded Islet" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Wooded Islet</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Suddenly the ground slopes away before us and Lake Rose lies at our feet, like an amethyst in a chalice
+of jade-green onyx. The surroundings are picturesque. The mountains descend abruptly to the water's
+edge and the snow never quite disappears from its banks in the longest summer. Here in June may
+be seen that incredible thing, the wild strawberry blossoming bravely above the slush-snow that still
+hides the plant below, and the bitter-root putting forth buds in the lee of a snow
+bank. A small stream enters the lake at the northwest, and here the trout are
+most abundant. They rise eagerly to the silver doctor fly, a half dozen often
+breaking at once, any one of which is a weight for a rod. Probably not
+more than a score of anglers have ever cast a fly from this point, and a word
+of caution may for this reason be pardoned. The low temperature of
+the water retards the spawning season till midsummer, consequently trout
+should not be taken here earlier than the third week of July. Again,
+nature has given to every true sportsman the good sense to stop
+when he has enough, and as this unwritten law is practically his only
+restraint, he should feel that its observance is in safe hands and that
+the sportsman's limit will be strictly observed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 196px;">
+<img src="images/i-36.jpg" width="196" height="350" alt="Bear Up!" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Bear Up!</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>A MORNING ON IRON CREEK</i></h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 394px;">
+<img src="images/i-37.jpg" width="394" height="314" alt="The Boy and the von Behr" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Boy and the von Behr</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class='unindent'><br /><br /><br />HEN the snows have disappeared from the
+valleys and lower hills, and the streams have
+fallen to the level of their banks and their
+waters have lost the brown stain filtered from
+decaying leaves, and have resumed the chatty,
+confidential tones of summer, then is the time
+to angle for the brown trout. If you would
+know the exact hour, listen for the brigadier
+bird as he sings morning and evening from a
+tall tree at the mouth of Iron Creek. When
+you hear his lonely wood-note, joint your
+rod and take the path through the lodge-pole
+pines that brings you to the creek about
+three hundred yards above its confluence
+with the river. The lush grass of the meadow
+is ankle-deep with back water from the main
+stream, and Iron Creek and the Little Firehole lie level-lipped and currentless. As you look quietly on
+from the shade of a tree, the water breaks into circles in a dozen places, and just at the edge of a bank
+where the sod overhangs the stream there is a mighty splash which is repeated several times. Move<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>
+softly, for the ground is spongy and
+vibrates under a heavy tread sufficiently
+to warn the fish for many yards,
+then the stream becomes suddenly silent
+and you will wait long for the trout to resume
+their feeding.</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i-38.jpg" width="600" height="384" alt="Rapids of the Gibbon River and Along Iron Creek" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Along Iron Creek</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p>Stealthily drop the fly just over the
+edge of the bank, as though some witless
+insect had lost his hold above and
+fallen!&mdash;Right Honorable Dean of the
+Guild, I read the other day an article
+in which you stated that the brown
+trout never leaps on a slack line.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>
+Surely you are right, and this is not a trout after
+all, but a flying fish, for he went down stream in
+three mighty and unexpected leaps that wrecked
+your theory and the top joint of the rod before
+the line could be retrieved. Then the fly comes
+limply home and nothing remains of the sproat
+hook but the shank.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i-39.jpg" width="400" height="319" alt="Divinity and Infinity" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Divinity and Infinity</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>These things happened to a friend in less
+time than is taken in the telling. When he
+had recovered from the shock he remarked,
+smilingly, "That wasn't half bad for a Dutchman,
+now, was it?" As he is a sensible fellow
+and has no "tendency toward effeminate
+attenuation" in tackle, he graciously accepted
+and used the proffered cast of Pitcher flies
+tied on number six O'Shaughnessy hooks.</p>
+
+<p>Having ventured this much concerning what the writer considers <i>proper</i> tackle, he would like to go
+further and record here his disapproval of the individual who turns up his nose at any rod of over five
+ounces in weight, and who tells you with an air from which you are expected to infer much, that fly fishing
+is really the only <i>honorable</i> and <i>gentlemanly</i> manner of taking trout. In the language of one who was a
+master of concise and forceful phrase, "This is one of the deplorable fishing affectations and pretences
+which the rank and file of the fraternity ought openly to expose and repudiate. Our irritation is greatly
+increased when we recall the fact that every one of these super-refined fly-casting dictators, when he fails
+to allure trout by his most scientific casts, will chase grasshoppers to the point of profuse perspiration,
+and turn over logs and stones with feverish anxiety in quest of worms and grubs, if haply he can with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>
+these save himself from empty-handedness."<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a> Fly fishing as a recreation justifies all good that has been
+written of it, but it is a tell-tale sport that infallibly informs your associates what manner of being you
+are. It is self-purifying like the limpid mountain stream its followers love, and no wrong-minded individual
+nor set of individuals can ever pollute it. It is too cosmopolitan a pleasure to belong to the
+exclusive, and too robust in sentiment to be confined to gossamer gut leaders and midge hooks.</p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 241px;">
+<img src="images/i-40.jpg" width="241" height="197" alt="Virginia Cascade" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Virginia Cascade</span>
+</div>
+<p>Much, in fact everything, of your success in taking fish in Iron Creek depends on the time of your
+visit. For three hundred, thirty days of the year it is profitless water. Then come the days when the
+German trout begin their annual <i>auswanderung</i>. No one need be told that these trout do not live in
+this creek throughout the year. For trout are brook-wise or river-wise according as they have been
+reared, and the habits, attitudes and behavior of the one are as different from the other as are those
+of the boys and girls reared in the country from the city-bred. If one of these river-bred fish breaks
+from the hook here he does not immediately bore up stream into deep water and disappear beneath a
+sheltering log, bank or submerged tree-top as one would having a claim on these waters, but heading
+down-stream, he stays not for brake and he stops not for stone till the river is reached. In his headlong
+haste to escape he reminds one of a country boy going for a doctor.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 337px;">
+<img src="images/i-41.jpg" width="337" height="500" alt="Mountain" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>It is one of the unexplained phenomena of trout life and habit, why these fish leap as they do here
+at this season, when hooked. In no other stream and at no other
+time have I known them to exhibit this quality. It is one of those
+problems of trout activity for which apparently no reason can be
+given further than the one which is said to control the fair sex;</p>
+
+<div class='poem'>
+"When she will she will,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">And you may depend on't;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">When she won't she won't,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">And that's an end on't."</span><br />
+</div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"I'm wrapped up in my plaid, and lyin' a' my
+length on a bit green platform, fit for the fairies' feet,
+wi' a craig hangin' ower me a thousand feet high,
+yet bright and balmy a' the way up wi' flowers and
+briars, and broom and birks, and mosses maist beautiful
+to behold wi' half shut e'e, and through aneath
+ane's arm guardin' the face frae the cloudless sunshine;
+and perhaps a bit bonny butterfly is resting wi'
+faulded wings on a gowan, no a yard frae your
+cheek; and noo waukening out o' a simmer dream
+floats awa' in its wavering beauty, but, as if unwilling
+to leave its place of mid-day sleep, comin' back
+and back, and roun' and roun' on this side and
+that side, and ettlin in its capricious happiness to
+fasten again on some brighter floweret, till the same
+breath o' wund that lifts up your hair so refreshingly
+catches the airy voyager and wafts her away
+into some other nook of her ephemeral paradise."</p>
+
+<div class='sig'>
+<span class="smcap">Christopher North.</span><br /><br /><br />
+</div></div>
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> Hon. Grover Cleveland in <i>The Saturday Evening Post</i>.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><i>AN AFTERNOON ON THE FIREHOLE</i></h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/i-42.jpg" width="300" height="258" alt="First View of the Firehole" title="" />
+<span class="caption">First View of the Firehole</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class='unindent'><br /><br /><br />HE Firehole is a companionable river. Notwithstanding
+its forbidding name, it is pre-eminently a stream for
+the angler, and always does its best to put him at his ease.
+Like some hospitable manorial lord, it comes straight
+down the highway for a league to greet the stranger and
+to offer him the freedom of its estate. Every fisherman
+who goes much alone along streams will unconsciously
+associate certain human attributes with the qualities
+of the waters he fishes. It may be a quiet charm
+that lulls to rest, or a bold current that challenges
+his endurance and caution. Between these extremes
+there is all that infinite range of moods and
+fancies which find their counterpart in the emotions.
+The Firehole possesses many of these qualities in a
+high degree. It can be broad, sunny and genial, or
+whisper with a scarcely audible lisp over languid, trailing
+beds of conferva; and anon, lead you with tumultuous voice between rocky walls where a misstep
+would be disastrous. The unfortunate person who travels in its company for the time required to
+make the tour of the Park and remains indifferent to all phases of its many-sidedness, should turn<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>
+back. Nature will have no communion
+with him, nor will he gain her little secrets
+and confidences:</div>
+
+<div class='poem'>
+"They're just beyond the skyline,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Howe'er so far you cruise."</span><br />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i-43.jpg" width="600" height="382" alt="Cascades of the Madison and Below the Cascades" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Below the Cascades</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>During the restful period following
+the noon-hour, when there is a truce
+between fisherman and fish, we lie in
+the shadow of the pines and read "Our
+Lady's Tumbler," till, in the drowsy
+mind fancy plays an interlude with
+fact. The ripple of the distant stream<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>
+becomes the patter of priestly feet down dim corridors, and the whisper of the pines the rustle of sacerdotal
+robes. Through half-shut lids we see the clouds drift across the slopes of a distant mountain,
+double as it were, cloud and snow bank vying with each other in whiteness.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 251px;">
+<img src="images/i-44.jpg" width="251" height="300" alt="Undine Falls" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Undine Falls</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Neither the companionship of man nor that of a boisterous stream will accord with our present mood.
+So, with rod in hand, we ford the stream above the island and lie down amid the wild flowers in the shadow
+of the western hill. For wild flowers, like patriotism, seemingly reach their highest perfection amid
+conditions of soil and climate that are apparently most uncongenial. Here almost in reach of hand,
+are a variety and profusion of flowers rarely found in the most favored spots; columbines,
+gentians, forget-me-nots, asters and larkspurs, are all in bloom at the same
+moment, for the summer is short and nature has trained them to thrust forth
+their leaves beneath the very heel of winter and to bear bud, flower, and fruit
+within the compass of fifty days.</p>
+
+<p>I strongly urge every tourist, angling or otherwise, to carry with him both
+a camera and a herbarium. With these he may preserve invaluable records
+of his outing; one to remind him of the lavish panorama of beauty of mountain,
+lake and waterfall; the other to hold within its leaves the delicately
+colored flowers that delight the senses. A great deal is said about the cheap
+tourist nowadays, with the emphasis so placed on the word "cheap" as
+to create a wrong impression. With the manner of your travel, whether
+in Pullman cars, Concord coaches, buck-board wagons, or on foot, this
+adjective has nothing to do. It does, however, describe pretty accurately
+a quality of mind too often found among visitors to such places&mdash;a mind
+that looks only to the present and passing events, and that between
+intervals of geyser-chasing, is busied with inconsequential gabble,
+with no thought of selecting the abiding, permanent things as
+treasures for the storehouse of memory.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>What fisherman is there who has not in his fly-book a dozen or more flies that are perennial reminders
+of great piscatorial events? And what angler is there who does not love to go over them at times, one
+by one, and recall the incidents surrounding the history of each?</p>
+
+<div class='poem'>
+We fondle the flies in our fancy,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Selecting a cast that will kill,</span><br />
+Then wait till a breeze from the canyon<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Has rimpled the water so still;&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Teal, and Fern, and Beaver,</span><br />
+Coachman, and Caddis, and Herl,&mdash;<br />
+And dream that the king of the river<br />
+Lies under the foam of that swirl.<br />
+<br />
+There's a feather from far Tioga,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And one from the Nepigon,</span><br />
+And one from the upper Klamath<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That tell of battles won&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Palmer, and Hackle, and Alder,</span><br />
+Claret, and Polka, and Brown,&mdash;<br />
+Each one a treasured memento<br />
+Of days that have come and gone.<br />
+<br />
+A joust of hardiest conflict<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">With knight in times of eld</span><br />
+Would bring a lesser pleasure<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Than each of these victories held.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Rapids, and foam, and smother,</span><br />
+Lunge, and thrust, and leap,&mdash;<br />
+And to know that the barbed feather<br />
+Is fastened sure and deep.<br />
+<br />
+Abbey, and Chantry, and Quaker,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dorset and Canada,</span><br />
+Premier, Hare's Ear, and Hawthorne,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brown Ant, and Yellow May,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Jungle-Cock, Pheasant, and Triumph,</span><br />
+Romeyn, and Montreal,<br />
+Are names that will ever linger<br />
+In the sunlight of Memory Hall.<br />
+</div>
+
+<p>The whole field of angling literature contains nothing more exquisite than the following description
+of the last days of Christopher North, as written by his daughter:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"It was an affecting sight to see him busy, nay, quite absorbed with the fishing tackle scattered
+about the bed, propped up with pillows&mdash;his noble head, yet glorious with its flowing locks, carefully
+combed by attentive hands, and falling on each side of his unfaded face. How neatly he picked out each
+elegantly dressed fly from its little bunch, drawing it out with trembling hand along the white coverlet,
+and then replacing it in his pocket-book, he would tell ever and anon of the streams he used to fish in
+of old."</p>
+
+<div class='center'>*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i-45.jpg" width="400" height="313" alt="Picturesque Rocks in River" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Picturesque Rocks in River</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>By four o'clock the stream is hidden from the sun and the shadow of the wooded summit at your
+back has crossed the roadway and is climbing the heights beyond. As if moved by some signal unheard
+by the listener, the trout begin to feed all along the surface
+of the water. Leap follows or accompanies leap as
+far as the eye can discern up stream, and down stream
+to where the water breaks to the downpull of the gorge
+below. Select a clear space for your back-cast, wait till a
+cloud obscures the sun. * * * * The trout took the
+fly from below and with a momentum that carried him
+full-length into the air. But there was no turning of the
+body in the arc that artists love to picture. He dropped
+straight down as he arose and the waters closed over him
+with a "plop" which you learn afterward is characteristic
+of the rise and strike of the German trout. All this may
+not be observed at first, for if he is one of the big fellows,
+he will cut out some busy-work for you to prevent his going
+under the top of that submerged tree which you had
+not noticed before. As it was, you brought him clear by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>
+a scant hand's breadth, only to have him
+dive for another similar one with greater
+energy.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i-46.jpg" width="400" height="308" alt="&quot;That Delectable Island&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;That Delectable Island&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Well, it's the same old story over again,
+but one that never becomes altogether tedious
+to the angler. And the profitable part
+of this tale is that it may be re-enacted here
+on any summer afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>Some day a canoe will float down the
+river and land on the gravelly beach at the
+upper end of that delectable island, just
+where the trees are mirrored in the water
+so picturesquely. Then a tent will be set up
+and two shall possess that island for a
+whole, happy week. If you are coming by
+that road then, give the "Hallo" of the
+fellow craft and you shall have a loaf and
+as many fish as you like, and be sent on your way as becomes a man and brother.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>TRAILS FROM YANCEY'S AND OTHER TRAILS</i></h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i-47.jpg" width="400" height="271" alt="Yancey&#39;s" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Yancey&#39;s</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class='unindent'><br /><br /><br />HEN "Uncle" John Yancey, peace to his
+ashes, selected the site for his home and
+built his cabin under the shelter of the
+mountain at the north end of Pleasant
+Valley, he displayed that capacity to discover
+and appropriate the best things of the
+earth which is characteristic of American
+pioneers. Here game was abundant and everything
+that a remote, mountainous country
+could supply to the frontiersman was at
+hand. A stream of purest water ran
+by the door, and the open, grassy
+meadows were ample for the supply
+of hay and pasturage. The scenery
+is delightful, varied and picturesque. No other locality in the Park is comparable with it as a place of
+abode, and there is no pleasanter place in which to spend a week than at "Yancey's."</div>
+
+<p>The government has recently completed a road from the canyon of the Yellowstone, over Mt. Washburn,
+down the valley near Yancey's, and reaching Mammoth Hot Springs by way of Lava Creek. This
+has added another day to the itinerary of the Park as planned by the transportation companies, and one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>
+which for scenic interest surpasses any other day of the tour. A mere category of the places of interest
+that may be seen in this region would be lengthy.</p>
+
+<p>The lower canyon of the Yellowstone with its overhanging walls five hundred feet high, with pillars
+of columnar basalt reaching more than half-way from base to summit, the petrified trees, lofty cliffs,
+and romantic waterfalls, will delight and charm the visitor.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 360px;">
+<img src="images/i-48.jpg" width="360" height="400" alt="&quot;Swirl and Sweep of the Water&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">&quot;Swirl and Sweep of the Water&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The angler will find the waters of this region as abundantly supplied with trout as any area of like
+extent anywhere. No amount of fishing will ever exhaust
+the "Big Eddy" of the Yellowstone, and it is worth a day's
+journey to witness the swirl and sweep of the water after it
+emerges from the confining, vertical walls. The velocity of
+the current at this point is very great, and surely, during a
+flood, attains a speed of sixteen or more miles an hour. In
+the eddy itself the trout rise indifferently to the fly, but
+will come to the red-legged grasshopper as long as the
+supply lasts.</p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 210px;">
+<img src="images/i-49.jpg" width="210" height="300" alt="The Palisades" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Palisades</span>
+</div>
+<p>Strange to say, they will not take the grasshopper on the
+surface of the water. Two bright faced boys who had
+climbed down into the canyon watched me whip the pool in
+every direction for a quarter of an hour without taking a
+single trout. Satisfied that something was wrong, I fastened
+a good sized Rangeley sinker to the leader about a foot
+above the hook and pitched the grasshopper into the
+buffeting currents. An hour later we carried back to
+camp twenty-five trout which, placed endwise, head
+to tail, measured twenty-five feet on a tape line.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This use of a sinker under the circumstances was not a great discovery, but it spelled the difference
+between success and failure at the time. So I have been glad at most times to learn by experience and
+from others the little things that help make a better day's angling.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>Once when I knew more about trout fishing than I have ever convinced myself
+that I knew since, I visited a famous stream in a wilderness new and
+unknown to me, fully resolved to show the natives how to do things.
+Near the end of the third day of almost fruitless fishing, the modest
+guide volunteered to take me out that evening, if I cared to go. Of
+course I cared to go, and I shall never forget that moonlight night
+on Beaver Creek. We returned to camp about ten o'clock with
+twenty-eight trout, four of which weighed better
+than three pounds apiece.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 205px;">
+<img src="images/i-50.jpg" width="205" height="293" alt="A Young Corsair of the Plains" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Young Corsair of the Plains</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It may be a severe shock to the sensibilities
+of the "super-refined fly-caster" to
+suggest so mean a bait as grasshoppers,
+yet he may obtain some comfort, as did
+one aforetime, by labeling the can in which
+the hoppers are carried:</p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+"<i>CALOPTENOUS FEMUR-RUBRUM</i>."<br />
+</div>
+
+<div class='center'>*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 307px;">
+<img src="images/i-51.jpg" width="307" height="388" alt="Tower Falls" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Tower Falls</span>
+</div>
+<p>Then there are Slough Creek, Hell-Roaring
+Creek, East Fork, Trout Lake, and a host of
+other streams and lakes that have been favorite resorts
+with anglers for years, and in which may be taken the very leviathans of six,
+seven, eight, and even ten, pounds' weight. He must be difficult to please<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>
+who finds not a day of days among them. Up to the present time only the red-throat trout inhabit
+these waters, but plants of other varieties have been made and will doubtless thrive quite as well as the
+native trout.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>Owing probably to the fact that, until recently, the region around Tower Creek and Falls was not
+accessible by roads, this stream received no attention from the fish commission till the summer of 1903,
+when a meager plant of 15,000 brook trout fry was made
+there. The scenery in this neighborhood is unsurpassed, and
+when the stream becomes well stocked it will, doubtless, be
+a favorite resort with anglers who delight in mountain fastnesses
+or in the study of geological records of past ages. The
+drainage basin of Tower Creek coincides with the limits of the
+extinct crater of an ancient volcano. As you stand amid the
+dark forests with which the walls of the crater are clothed
+and see the evidences on all sides of the Titanic forces once
+at work here, fancy has but little effort in picturing something
+of the tremendous scenes once enacted on this spot.
+Now all is peace and quiet, the quiet of the wilderness, which
+save for the rush of the torrential stream, is absolutely noiseless.
+No song of bird gladdens the darkened forests, and in
+its gloom the wild animals are seldom or never seen. How
+strikingly the silence and wonder of the scene proclaim that
+nature has formed the world for the happiness of man.</p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 261px;">
+<img src="images/i-52.jpg" width="261" height="332" alt="The Shadow of a Cliff" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Shadow of a Cliff</span>
+</div>
+<p>Within two hundred yards of the Yellowstone River,
+Tower Creek passes over a fall of singular and romantic
+beauty. Major Chittenden in his book "The Yellowstone"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>
+thus describes it: "This waterfall is the most beautiful in the
+Park, if one takes into consideration all its surroundings. The
+fall itself is very graceful in form. The deep cavernous basin into
+which it pours itself is lined with shapely evergreen trees, so
+that the fall is partially screened from view. Above it stand those
+peculiar forms of rock characteristic of that locality&mdash;detached
+pinnacles or towers which give rise to the name. The lapse of
+more than thirty years since Lieutenant Doane saw these falls,
+has given us nothing descriptive of them that can compare with
+the simple words of his report penned upon the first inspiration
+of a new discovery: 'Nothing can be more chastely beautiful than
+this lovely cascade, hidden away in the dim light of overshadowing
+rocks and woods, its very voice hushed to a low murmur
+unheard at the distance of a few hundred yards. Thousands
+might pass by within half a mile and not dream of its existence;
+but once seen, it passes to the list of most pleasant memories.'"</p>
+
+
+
+<p>If the angler wanders farther into the wilderness than
+any waters named herein would lead him, he will find other
+streams to bear him company amid scenes that will live long in
+his memory and where the trout are ever ready to pay him the
+compliment of a rise. To the eastward flows Shoshone river with its
+myriad tributaries, teeming with trout and draining a region far more rugged and lofty than the
+Park proper. To the south and west are those wonderfully beautiful lakes that form the source of
+the Snake river. Here, early in the season, the great lake or Macinac trout, <i>Salvelinus namaycush</i>, are
+occasionally taken with a trolling spoon.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>From north to south, from the Absaroka Mountains to the Tetons, on both sides of the continental
+divide, this peerless pleasuring-ground is netted with a lace-work of streams. Two score lakes and
+more than one hundred, sixty streams are named on the map of this domain which is forever secured
+and safeguarded</p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+"<i>FOR THE BENEFIT AND ENJOYMENT OF THE PEOPLE</i>"<br /><br /><br />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i-53.jpg" width="400" height="305" alt="Good Bye Till Next Year" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Good Bye Till Next Year</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes:</h3>
+<p>Obvious punctuation errors repaired.</p>
+<p><a href="#Page_26">Page 26</a>, "Whpskehegan" changed to "Waskahegan" (fished the Waskahegan)</p></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Fly Fishing in Wonderland, by Klahowya
+
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Fly Fishing in Wonderland, by Klahowya
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Fly Fishing in Wonderland
+
+Author: Klahowya
+
+Release Date: August 31, 2011 [EBook #37278]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FLY FISHING IN WONDERLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Emmy and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: FLY FISHING in WONDERLAND Cover]
+
+
+_A HILL VAGABOND_
+
+  _Snakin' wood down the mount'ins,
+    Fishin' the little streams;
+  Smokin' my pipe in the twilight,
+    An' dreamin' over old dreams;_
+
+  _Breathin' the breath o' the cool snows,
+    Sniffin' the scent o' the pine;
+  Watchin' the hurryin' river,
+  An' hearin' the coyotes whine._
+
+  _This is life in the mount'ins,
+    Summer an' winter an' fall,
+  Up to the rainy springtime,
+    When the birds begin to call._
+
+  _Then I fix my rod and tackle,
+    I read, I smoke an' I sing.
+  Glad like the birds to be livin'--
+    Livin' the life of a king!_
+        --_Louise Paley in The Saturday Evening Post._
+
+
+
+  COPYRIGHT, 1910,
+  By O. P. BARNES
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+TO JOHN GILL
+
+  IN WHOSE COMPANIONSHIP I HAVE PASSED MANY DELIGHTFUL
+  DAYS ALONG THE STREAMS AND IN THE WOODS; QUIET
+  ENJOYABLE EVENINGS WATCHING THE ALPENGLOW
+  ILLUMINATE THE SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAINS;
+  AND STORMY NIGHTS BESIDE THE SEA
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+_TABLE OF CONTENTS_
+
+
+    _GOOD FISHING! A FOREWORD_                    _6_
+    _IN THE DIM, RED DAWN_                        _9_
+    _THE TROUT--NATIVE AND PLANTED_              _14_
+    _LET'S GO A-FISHING!_                        _21_
+    _A CHAPTER ON TROUT FLIES_                   _28_
+    _GRIZZLY LAKE AND LAKE ROSE_                 _35_
+    _A MORNING ON IRON CREEK_                    _40_
+    _AN AFTERNOON ON THE FIREHOLE_               _45_
+    _TRAILS FROM YANCEY'S AND OTHER TRAILS_      _51_
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+_GOOD FISHING!_
+
+
+_This little writing has to do with the streams and the trout therein of
+that portion of our country extending southward from the southern
+boundary of Montana to the Teton mountains, and eastward from the
+eastern boundary of Idaho to the Absaroka range. Lying on both sides of
+the continental divide, its surface is veined by the courses of a
+multitude of streams flowing either to the Pacific Ocean or to the Gulf
+of Mexico, while from the southern rim of this realm of wonders the
+waters reach the Gulf of California through the mighty canyons carved by
+the Colorado._
+
+_This region has abundant attractions for seekers of outdoor pleasures,
+and for none more than for the angler. Here, within a space about
+seventy miles square, nature has placed a bewildering diversity of
+rivers, mountains, lakes, canyons, geysers and waterfalls not found
+elsewhere in the world. Fortunately, Congress early reserved the greater
+part of this domain as a public pleasure ground. Under the wise
+administration of government officials the natural beauties are
+protected and made accessible by superb roads. The streams also, many of
+which were barren of fish, have, by successful plantings and intelligent
+protection, become all that the sportsman can wish. The angler who
+wanders through the woods in almost any direction will scarcely fail to
+find some picturesque lake or swift flowing stream where the best of
+sport may be had with the rod._
+
+_Several years ago I made my first visit to this country, and it has
+been my privilege to return thither annually on fishing excursions of
+varying duration. These outings have been so enjoyable and have yielded
+so much pleasure at the time and afterwards, that I should like to sound
+the angler's pack-cry, "Good Fishing!" loudly enough to lead others to
+go also._
+
+_The photographs from which the illustrations were made, except where
+due credit is given to others, were taken with a small hand camera which
+has hung at my belt in crossing mountains and wading streams, and are
+mainly of such scenes as one comes upon in out-of-the-way places while
+following that "most virtuous pastime" of fly-casting._
+
+                                                      _THE AUTHOR._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration: _THE DIM, RED DAWN_]
+
+
+
+
+_IN THE DIM, RED DAWN_
+
+
+[Illustration: _A Leaping Salmon_
+
+_Photo by Hugh M. Smith_]
+
+BEFORE exercising the right of eminent domain over these waters, it may
+be profitable to say a word in explanation of the fact that hardly more
+than a score of years ago many of these beautiful lakes and streams were
+absolutely without fish life. This will aid us in understanding what the
+government has done and is still doing to create an ideal paradise for
+the angler among these mountains and plateaus.
+
+There was a time, and this too in comparatively recent geological eras,
+when the waters of that region now under consideration abounded with
+fish of many species. The clumsy catfish floundered along the shallows
+and reedy bayous in company with the solemn red-horse and a long line of
+other fishes of present and past generations. The lordly salmon found
+ideal spawning grounds in the gravelly beds of the streams draining to
+the westward, and doubtless came hither annually in great numbers. It
+may be that the habit of the Columbia river salmon to return yearly from
+the Pacific and ascend that stream was bred into the species during the
+days when its waters ran in an uninterrupted channel from source to sea.
+It is true that elsewhere salmon manifest this anadromous impulse in as
+marked a degree as in the Columbia and its tributaries, yet, the
+conclusion that these heroic pilgrimages are _habit_ resulting from
+similar movements, accidental at first, but extending over countless
+years, is natural, and probably correct. When one sees these noble fish
+congested by thousands at the foot of some waterfall up which not one in
+a hundred is able to leap, or observes them ascending the brooks in the
+distant mountains where there is not sufficient water to cover them,
+gasping, bleeding, dying, but pushing upward with their last breath, the
+figure of the crusaders in quest of an ancient patrimony arises in the
+mind, so strong is the simile and so active is your sympathy with the
+fish.
+
+[Illustration: _Mammoth Hot Springs_]
+
+In those distant days the altitude of this region was not great, nor was
+the ocean as remote from its borders as now. The forces which already
+had lifted considerable areas above the sea and fashioned them into an
+embryo continent were still at work. The earth-shell, yet soft and
+plastic, was not strong enough to resist the double strain caused by its
+cooling, shrinking outer crust and the expanding, molten interior.
+Volcanic eruptions, magnificent in extent, resulted and continued at
+intervals throughout the Pliocene period. These eruptions were
+accompanied by prodigious outpours of lava that altered the topography
+of the entire mountain section. Nowhere else in all creation has such an
+amount of matter been forced up from the interior of the earth to flow
+in red-hot rivers to the distant seas as in the western part of the
+United States. What a panorama of flame it was, and what a sublime
+impression it must have made on the minds of the primeval men who
+witnessed it from afar as they paddled their canoes over the troubled
+waters that reflected the red-litten heavens beneath them! Is it
+remarkable that the geyser region of the Park is a place of evil repute
+among the savages and a thing to be passed by on the other side, even to
+the present day?
+
+[Illustration: _Detail from Jupiter Terrace_]
+
+When the elemental forces subsided the waters were fishless, and all
+aquatic life had been destroyed in the creation of the glories of the
+Park and its surroundings. Streams that once had their origins in
+sluggish, lily-laden lagoons, now took their sources from the lofty
+continental plateaus. In reaching the lower levels these streams, in
+most instances, fell over cataracts so high as to be impassable to fish,
+thus precluding their being restocked by natural processes. From this
+cause the upper Gardiner, the Gibbon and the Firehole rivers and their
+tributaries--streams oftenest seen by the tourist--were found to contain
+no trout when man entered upon the scene. From a sportsman's viewpoint
+the troutless condition of the very choicest waters was fortunate, as it
+left them free for the planting of such varieties as are best adapted to
+the food and character of each stream.
+
+The blob or miller's thumb existed in the Gibbon river, and perhaps in
+other streams, above the falls. Its presence in such places is due to
+its ability to ascend very precipitous water courses by means of the
+filamentous algae which usually border such torrents. I once discovered
+specimens of this odd fish in the algous growth covering the rocky face
+of the falls of the Des Chutes river, at Tumwater, in the state of
+Washington, and there is little doubt that they do ascend nearly
+vertical walls where the conditions are favorable.
+
+[Illustration: _Tumwater Falls_]
+
+The presence of the red-throat trout of the Snake river in the head
+waters of the Missouri is easily explained by the imperfect character of
+the water-shed between the Snake and Yellowstone rivers. Atlantic Creek,
+tributary to the Yellowstone, and Pacific Creek, tributary to the Snake,
+both rise in the same marshy meadow on the continental divide. From this
+it is argued that, during the sudden melting of heavy snows in early
+times, it was possible for specimens to cross from one side to the
+other, and it is claimed that an interchange of individuals might occur
+by this route at the present day.[A] Certain it is that these courageous
+fish exhibit the same disregard for their lives that is spoken of
+previously as characteristic of their congeners, the salmon. Trout are
+frequently found lying dead on the grass of a pasture or meadow where
+they were stranded the night previous in an attempt to explore a
+rivulet caused by a passing shower. The mortality among fish of this
+species in irrigated districts is alarming. At each opening of the
+sluice gates they go out with the current and perish in the fields.
+Unless there is a more rigid enforcement of the law requiring that the
+opening into the ditches be screened, trout must soon disappear from the
+irrigated sections.
+
+The supposition that these fish have crossed the continental divide, as
+it were, overland, serves the double purpose of explaining the presence
+of the trout, and the absence of the chub, sucker and white-fish of the
+Snake River from Yellowstone Lake. The latter are feeble fish at best,
+and generally display a preference for the quiet waters of the deeper
+pools where they feed near the bottom and with little exertion. Neither
+the chub, sucker nor white-fish possesses enough hardihood to undertake
+so precarious a journey nor sufficient vitality to survive it.
+
+[Illustration: _Gibbon Falls_]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[Footnote A: NOTE--"As already stated, the trout of Yellowstone Lake
+certainly came into the Missouri basin by way of Two-Ocean Pass from the
+Upper Snake River basin. One of the present writers has caught them in
+the very act of going over Two-Ocean Pass from Pacific into Atlantic
+drainage. The trout of the two sides of the pass cannot be separated,
+and constitute a single species."
+                                                   Jordan & Evermann.]
+
+
+
+
+_THE TROUT--NATIVE AND PLANTED_
+
+
+[Illustration: _A Place to be Remembered_]
+
+TO MANY people a trout is merely a _trout_, with no distinction as to
+variety or origin; and some there be who know him only as a _fish_, to
+be eaten without grace and with much gossip. Again, there are those who
+have written at great length of this and that species and sub-species,
+with many words and nice distinctions relative to vomerine teeth,
+branchiostegal rays and other anatomical differences. I would not lead
+you, even if your patience permitted, along the tedious path of the
+scientist, but will follow the middle path and note only such
+differences in the members of this interesting family as may be apparent
+to the unpracticed eye and by which the novice may distinguish between
+the varieties that come to his creel.
+
+In a letter to Doctor David Starr Jordan, in September, 1889, Hon.
+Marshall McDonald, then U. S. Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries, wrote,
+"I have proposed to undertake to stock these waters with different
+species of Salmonidae, reserving a distinct river basin for each." Every
+one will commend the wisdom of the original intent as it existed in the
+mind of Mr. McDonald. It implied that a careful study would be made of
+the waters of each basin to determine the volume and character of the
+current, its temperature, the depth to which it froze during the
+sub-arctic winters, and the kinds and quantities of fish-food found in
+each. With this data well established, and knowing, as fish culturists
+have for centuries, what conditions are favorable to the most desirable
+kinds of trout, there was a field for experimentation and improvement
+probably not existing elsewhere.
+
+[Illustration: _Willow Park Camp_]
+
+[Illustration: _Klahowya_]
+
+The commission began its labors in 1889, and the record for that year
+shows among other plants, the placing of a quantity of Loch Leven trout
+in the Firehole above the Kepler Cascade. The year following nearly ten
+thousand German trout fry were planted in Nez Perce Creek, the principal
+tributary of the Firehole. Either the agents of the commission
+authorized to make these plants were ignorant of the purpose of the
+Commissioner at Washington, or they did not know with what immunity fish
+will pass over the highest falls. Whatever the reason for this error,
+the die is cast, and the only streams that have a single distinct
+variety are the upper Gardiner and its tributaries, where the eastern
+brook trout has the field, or rather the waters, to himself. The first
+attempt to stock any stream was a transfer of the native trout of
+another stream to Lava Creek above the falls. I mention this because the
+presence of the native trout in this locality has led some to believe
+that they were there from the first, and thus constituted an exception
+to the rule that no trout were found in streams above vertical
+waterfalls.
+
+[Illustration: _On the Trail to Grizzly Lake_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Little Firehole_]
+
+Many are confused by the variety of names applied to the native trout of
+the Yellowstone, _Salmo lewisi_. Red-throat trout, cut-throat trout,
+black-spotted trout, mountain trout, Rocky Mountain trout, salmon trout,
+and a host of other less generally known local names have been applied
+to him. This is in a measure due to the widely different localities and
+conditions under which he is found, and to the very close resemblance he
+bears to his first cousins, _Salmo clarkii_, of the streams flowing into
+the Pacific from northern California to southern Alaska; and to _Salmo
+mykiss_ of the Kamchatkan rivers. Perhaps the very abundance of this
+trout has cheapened the estimate in which he is held by some anglers.
+Nevertheless, he is a royal fish. In streams with rapid currents he is
+always a hard fighter, and his meat is high-colored and well-flavored.
+
+The name "black-spotted" trout describes this fish more accurately than
+any other of his cognomens. The spots are carbon-black and have none of
+the vermilion and purple colors that characterize the brook trout. The
+spots are not, however, always uniform in size and number. In some
+instances they are entirely wanting on the anterior part of the body,
+but their absence is not sufficiently important to constitute a varietal
+distinction. The red dash under the throat (inner edge of the mandible)
+from which the names "cut-throat" and "red-throat" are derived, is never
+absent in specimens taken here, and, as no other trout of this locality
+is so marked, it affords the tyro an unfailing means of determining the
+nature of his catch.
+
+[Illustration: _The Path Through the Pines_]
+
+If the eastern brook trout, _Salvelinus fontinalis_, could read and
+understand but a part of the praises that have been sung of him in prose
+and verse through all the years, what a pampered princeling and nuisance
+he would become! But to his credit, he has gone on being the same
+sensible, shrewd, wary and delightful fish, adapting himself to all
+sorts of mountain streams, lakes, ponds and rivers, and always giving
+the largest returns to the angler in the way of health and happiness.
+The literature concerning the methods employed in his capture alone
+would make a library in which we should find the names of soldiers,
+statesmen and sovereigns, and the great of the earth. Aelian, who lived
+in the second century A. D., describes, in his _De Animalium Natura_,
+how the Macedonians took a fish with speckled skin from a certain river
+by means of a hook tied about with red wool, to which were fitted two
+feathers from a cock's wattle. More than four hundred years prior to
+this Theocritus mentioned a method of fishing with a "fallacious bait
+suspended from a rod," but unfortunately failed to tell us how the fly
+was made. If by any chance you have never met the brook trout you may
+know him infallibly from his brethren by the dark olive, worm-like
+lines, technically called "vermiculations," along the back, as he alone
+displays these heraldic markings.
+
+[Illustration: _The Melan Bridge_]
+
+Throughout the northwest the brown trout, _Salmo fario_, is generally
+known as the "von Behr" trout, from the name of the German
+fish-culturist who sent the first shipment of their eggs to this
+country. This fish may be distinguished at sight by the coarse scales
+which give his body a dark grayish appearance, slightly resembling a
+mullet, and by the large dull red spots along the lateral line. There
+are also three beautiful red spots on the adipose fin.
+
+The Loch Leven trout, _Salmo levenensis_, comes from a lake of that name
+in southern Scotland. He is a canny, uncertain fellow, and nothing like
+as hardy as we might expect from his origin. In the Park waters he has
+not justified the fame for gameness which he brings from abroad, but
+there are occasions, particularly in the vicinity of the Lone Star
+geyser, when he comes on with a very pretty rush. In general appearance
+he somewhat resembles the von Behr trout, but is a more graceful and
+finely organized fish than the latter. He is the only trout of this
+locality that has no red on his body, and its absence is sufficient to
+distinguish him from all others.
+
+[Illustration: _Distant View of Mt. Holmes_]
+
+No one can possibly mistake the rainbow trout, _Salmo irideus_, for any
+other species. The large, brilliant spots with which his silvery-bluish
+body is covered, and that filmy iridescence so admired by every one,
+will identify him anywhere. There is, however, a marked difference in
+the brilliance of this iridescence between fish of different ages as
+well as between stream-raised and hatchery-bred specimens, and even
+among fish from the upper and lower courses of the same stream.
+
+[Illustration: _Learning to Cast_]
+
+The question as to which is the more beautiful, the rainbow or the brook
+trout, has often been debated with much feeling by their respective
+champions, and will doubtless remain undecided so long as both may be
+taken from clear-flowing brooks, where sky and landscape blend with the
+soul of man to make him as supremely happy as it is ever the lot of
+mortals to become. For it is the joy within and around you that supplies
+a mingled pleasure far deeper than that afforded by the mere beauty of
+the fish. You will remember that "Doctor Boteler" said of the
+strawberry, "Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but
+doubtless God never did." So, I have said at different times of _both_
+brook and rainbow trout, "Doubtless God could have made a more beautiful
+fish than this, but doubtless God never did."
+
+[Illustration: _Scene on the Gibbon River_]
+
+[Illustration: _Above Kepler Cascade_]
+
+During a recent trip through the Rocky Mountains I remained over night
+in a town of considerable mining importance. In the evening I walked up
+the main street passing an almost unbroken line of saloons, gambling
+houses and dance halls, then crossed the street to return, and found the
+same conditions on that side, except that, if possible, the crowds were
+noisier. Just before reaching the hotel, I came upon a small restaurant
+in the window of which was an aquarium containing a number of rainbow
+trout. One beautiful fish rested quivering, pulsating, resplendent,
+poised apparently in mid air, while the rays from an electric light
+within were so refracted that they formed an aureola about the fish,
+seemingly transfiguring it. I paused long in meditation on the scene,
+till aroused from my revery by the blare of a graphophone from a resort
+across the street. It sang:
+
+  "Last night as I lay sleeping, there came a dream so fair,
+   I stood in old Jerusalem, beside the temple there;
+   I heard the children singing and ever as they sang
+   Methought the voice of angels from heaven in answer rang,
+       Jerusalem, Jerusalem, lift up your gates and sing
+       Hosanna in the highest, hosanna to your king."
+
+I made the sign of Calvary in the vapor on the glass and departed into
+the night pondering of many things.
+
+
+
+
+_LETS GO A-FISHING_
+
+      "No man is in perfect condition to enjoy scenery
+      unless he has a fly-rod in his hand and a fly-hook in
+      his pocket."
+                                             _Wm. C. Prime_
+
+[Illustration: _Lower Falls of the Yellowstone_]
+
+MANY who know these mountains and valleys best have gained their
+knowledge with a rod in hand, and you will hear these individuals often
+express surprise that a greater number of tourists do not avail
+themselves of the splendid opportunities offered for fishing. In no
+other way can so much pleasure be found on the trip, and by no other
+means can you put yourself so immediately and completely in sympathy
+with the spirit of the wilderness. Besides, it is this doing something
+more than being a mere passenger that gives the real interest and zest
+to existence and that yields the best returns in the memories of
+delightful days. The ladies may be taken along without the least
+inconvenience and to the greater enjoyment of the outing. What if the
+good dame has never seen an artificial fly! Take her anyway, if she will
+go, and we will make her acquainted with streams where she shall have
+moderate success if she but stand in the shadow of the willows and
+tickle the surface of the pool with a single fly. You will feel
+mutually grateful, each for the presence of the other; and, depend upon
+it, it will make the recollection doubly enjoyable.
+
+We shall never know and name all the hot springs and geysers of this
+wonderland, but we may become acquainted with the voice of a stream and
+know it as the speech of a friend. We may establish fairly intimate
+relations with the creatures of the wood and be admitted to some sort of
+brotherhood with them if we conduct ourselves becomingly. The timid
+grouse will acknowledge the caress of our bamboo with an arching of the
+neck, and the beaver will bring for our inspection his freight of willow
+or alder, and will at times swim confidently between our legs when we
+are wading in deep water.
+
+[Illustration: _The Black Giant Geyser_]
+
+The author of "Little Rivers" draws this pleasing picture of the
+delights of fishing: "You never get so close to the birds as when you
+are wading quietly down a little river, casting your fly deftly under
+the branches for the wary trout, but ever on the lookout for all the
+pleasant things that nature has to bestow upon you. Here you shall come
+upon the catbird at her morning bath, and hear her sing, in a clump of
+pussy-willows, that low, tender, confidential song which she keeps for
+the hours of domestic intimacy. The spotted sand-piper will run along
+the stones before you, crying, 'wet-feet, wet-feet!' and bowing and
+teetering in the friendliest manner, as if to show you the best pools."
+Surely, if this invitation move you not, no voice of mine will serve to
+stir your laggard legs.
+
+One should not, however, go to the wilderness and expect it to receive
+him at once with open arms. It was there before him and will remain long
+after he is forgotten. But approach it humbly and its asperities will
+soften and in time become akin to affection. As one looks for the first
+time through the black, basaltic archway at the entrance to the Park,
+the nearby mountains have an air of distance and unfriendliness, nor do
+they speedily assume a more sympathetic relation toward the visitor. A
+region in which the world's formative forces linger ten thousand years
+after they have disappeared elsewhere will make no hasty alliance with
+strangers. The heavy foot of time treads so slowly here that one must
+come often and with observant eye to note the advance from season to
+season and to feel that he has any part or interest in it.
+
+[Illustration: _Park Gateway_]
+
+When we can judge correctly from the height of the up-springing
+vegetation whether the forest fire that blackened this hillside raged
+one year ago or ten; when we have noted that the bowl of this terrace,
+increasing in height by the insensible deposit of carbonate of lime from
+the overflowing waters, appears to outstrip from year to year the growth
+of the neighboring cedars; when these and a multitude of kindred
+phenomena are comprehended, how interested we become!
+
+Nothing said here is intended to encourage undue familiarity with the
+wild game. "Shinny on your own side," is a good motto with any game, and
+more than one can testify of sudden and unexpected trouble brought on
+themselves by meddlesomeness. In following an elk trail through the
+woods one afternoon, I found a pine tree had fallen across the path
+making a barrier about hip-high. While looking about to see whether any
+elk had gone over the trail since the tree fell, and, if so, whether
+they had leaped the barrier or had passed around it by way of the root
+or top, a squirrel with a pine cone in his teeth, sprang on the butt of
+the tree and came jauntily along the log. Some twenty feet away he spied
+me, and suddenly his whole manner and bearing changed. He dropped the
+cone and came on with a bow-legged, swaggering air, the very embodiment
+of insolent proprietorship. The top of my rod extended over the log,
+and as he came under it I gave him a smart switch across the back. Now,
+there had been nothing in my previous acquaintance with squirrels to
+lead me to think them other than most timid animals. But the slight blow
+of the rod-tip transformed this one into a Fury. With a peculiar
+half-bark, half-scream, he leaped at my face and slashed at my neck and
+ears with his powerful jaws. So strong was he that I could not drag him
+loose when his teeth were buried in my coat collar. I finally choked him
+till he loosened his hold and flung him ten feet away. Back he came to
+the attack with the speed of a wild cat. It was either retreat for me or
+death to the squirrel, and I retreated. Never before had I witnessed
+such an exhibition of diabolical malevolence, and, though I have laughed
+over it since, I was too much upset for an hour afterward to see the
+funny side of the encounter.
+
+[Illustration: _Bear Cubs_
+
+_Photo by F. J. Haynes_]
+
+The ways of the wilderness have ever been pleasant to my feet, and
+whether it was taking the ouananiche in Canada or the Beardslee trout in
+the shadow of the Olympics, it has all been good. Without detracting
+from the sport afforded by any other locality, I honestly believe that,
+taking into consideration climate, comfort, scenery, environment, and
+the opportunities for observing wild life, this region has no equal for
+trout fishing under the sun. I am aware that he who praises the fishing
+on any stream will ever have two classes of critics--the unthinking and
+the unsuccessful. To these I would say, "Whether your success shall be
+greater or less than mine will depend upon the conditions of weather and
+stream and on your own skill, and none of these do I control." In that
+splendid book, "Fly-Rods and Fly-Tackle," Mr. Henry P. Wells relates an
+instance in which he and his guide took an angler to a distant lake with
+the certain promise and expectation of fine fishing. After recording the
+keen disappointment he felt that not a single trout would show itself,
+he says, "Then I vowed a vow, which I commend to the careful
+consideration of all anglers, old and new alike--never again, under any
+circumstances, will I recommend any fishing locality in terms
+substantially stronger than these 'At that place I have done so and so;
+under like conditions it is believed that you can repeat it.' We are apt
+to speak of a place and the sport it affords as we found it, whereas
+reflection and experience should teach us that it is seldom exactly the
+same, even for two successive days."
+
+[Illustration: _Elk In Winter_
+
+  _Photo by F. J. Haynes_]
+
+There is a large number of fly-fishermen in the east who sincerely
+believe that the best sport cannot be had in the streams of the Rocky
+Mountains, and this belief has a grain of truth when the fishing is
+confined solely to native trout and to streams of indifferent interest.
+But when the waters flow through such picturesque surroundings as are
+found in the Yellowstone National Park, when from among these waters one
+may select the stream that shall furnish the trout he loves most to
+take, the objection is most fully answered. The writer can attest how
+difficult it was to outgrow the conviction that a certain brook of the
+Alleghanies had no equal, but he now gladly concedes that there are
+streams in the west just as prolific of fish and as pleasant to look
+upon as the one he followed in boyhood. It is proper enough to maintain
+that: "The fields are greenest where our childish feet have strayed,"
+but when we permit a mere sentiment to prevent the fullest enjoyment of
+the later opportunities of life, your beautiful sentiment becomes a
+harmful prejudice.
+
+When the prophet required Naaman to go down and bathe in the river
+Jordan, Naaman was exceeding wroth, and exclaimed, "Are not Abana and
+Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better than any in Israel?" The record hath
+it that Naaman went and bathed in the Jordan, and that his _body_ was
+healed of its _leprosy_ and his _mind_ of its _conceit_. So, when my
+angling friend from New Brunswick inquires whether I have fished the
+Waskahegan or have tried the lower pools of the Assametaquaghan for
+salmon, I am compelled to answer _no_. But there comes a longing to give
+him a day's outing on Hell-Roaring Creek or to see him a-foul of a
+five-pound von Behr trout amid the steam of the Riverside Geyser. The
+streams of Maine and Canada are delightful and possess a charm that
+lingers in the mind like the minor chords of almost forgotten music, but
+they cannot be compared with the full-throated torrents of the
+Absarokas. As well liken a fugue with flute and cymbals to an oratorio
+with bombardon and sky-rockets!
+
+[Illustration: _Having Eaten and Drunk_]
+
+[Illustration: _Who Hath Seen the Beaver Busied?_
+
+  _Photo by Biological Survey_]
+
+  Who hath seen the beaver busied? Who hath watched the black-tail
+          mating?
+  Who hath lain alone to hear the wild-goose cry?
+  Who hath worked the chosen water where the ouananiche is waiting,
+  Or the sea-trout's jumping-crazy for the fly?
+  He must go--go--go--away from here!
+  On the other side the world he's overdue.
+  'Send your road is clear before you when the old Spring-fret comes
+          o'er you
+    And the Red Gods call for you!
+
+  Do you know the blackened timber--do you know that racing stream
+    With the raw right-angled log-jam at the end:
+  And the bar of sun-warmed shingle where a man may bask and dream
+    To the click of shod canoe poles round the bend?
+  It is there that we are going with our rods and reels and traces,
+    To a silent smoky Indian that we know--
+  To a couch of new-pulled hemlock with the starlight on our faces,
+    For the Red Gods call us out and we must go!
+                            The Feet of the Young Men--_Kipling._
+
+
+
+
+_A CHAPTER ON TROUT FLIES_
+
+      "Thyse ben xij. flyes wyth whytch ye shall angle to ye
+      trought and graylling, and dubbe lyke as ye shall now
+      hear me tell."
+                                     _Dame Juliana Berners._
+
+
+[Illustration: Water is the Master Mason]
+
+FIVE centuries have passed since the dignified and devout prioress of
+St. Albans indited the above sentence, and the tribute to the sterling
+good sense therein is that the growing years have but added to its
+authority. A dozen well selected varieties of flies, dubbe them how ye
+lyke, are well-nigh sufficient for any locality. There may be streams
+that require a wider range of choice, but these are so rare that they
+may safely be considered as exceptional. Not that any particular harm
+has resulted from the unreasonable increase in the number and varieties
+of artificial flies. They amuse and gratify the tyro and in no wise
+disturb the master of the art. But an over-plethoric fly book in the
+possession of a stranger will, with the knowing, place the angling
+ability of the owner under suspicion. Better a thousand-fold, are the
+single half-dozen flies the uses and seasons of which are fully
+understood than a multitude of meaningless creations.
+
+The angler should strive to attain an intelligent understanding of the
+principal features of the artificial fly and how a change in the form
+and color of these features affects the behavior of the fish for which
+he angles. In studying this matter men have gone down in diving suits
+that they might better see the fly as it appeared when presented to the
+fish, and there is nothing in their reports to encourage extremely fine
+niceties in fly-dressing. One may know a great deal of artists and their
+work and yet truly know but little of the value of _art_ itself; or have
+been a great reader of economics, and yet have little practical
+knowledge of that complex product of society called _civilization_. So,
+I had rather possess the knowledge a dear friend of mine has of Dickens,
+Shakespeare, and the Bible alone than to be able to discuss "literature"
+in general before clubs and societies.
+
+Several years of angling experience in the far west have convinced the
+writer that flies of full bodies and positive colors are the most
+killing, and that the palmers are slightly better than the hackles. Of
+the standard patterns of flies the most successful are the coachman,
+royal coachman, black hackle, Parmacheene Belle, with the silver doctor
+for lake fishing, in the order named. The trout here, with the exception
+of those in Lake Yellowstone, are fairly vigorous fighters, and it is
+important that your tackle should be strong and sure rather than
+elegant.
+
+With a view of determining whether it were possible to make a fly that
+would answer nearly all the needs of the mountain fisherman, I began, in
+1897, a series of experiments in fly-tying that continued over a period
+of five years. The result is the production of what is widely known in
+the west as the Pitcher fly. As before indicated, this fly did not
+spring full panoplied into being, but was evolved from standard types by
+gradual modifications. The body is a furnace hackle, tied palmer; tail
+of barred wood-duck feather; wing snow-white, to which is added a blue
+cheek. The name, "Pitcher," was given to it as a compliment to Major
+John Pitcher, who, as acting superintendent of the Yellowstone National
+Park, has done much to improve the quality of the fishing in these
+streams.
+
+From a dozen states anglers have written testifying to the killing
+qualities of the Pitcher Fly, and the extracts following show that its
+success is not confined to any locality nor to any single species of
+trout:
+
+"The Pitcher flies you gave me have aided me in filling my twenty-pound
+basket three times in the last three weeks. Have had the best sport this
+season I have ever enjoyed on the Coeur d'Alene waters, and I can
+truthfully say I owe it all to the Pitcher fly and its designer."
+
+                                       E. R. DENNY,
+                                             Wallace, Idaho.
+
+[Illustration: _Following a Little River_]
+
+[Illustration: _At the Head of the Meadow_]
+
+[Illustration: _The Tongue River_
+
+  _Photo by N. H. Darton_]
+
+"One afternoon I had put up my rod and strolled down to the river where
+one of our party was whipping a pool of the Big Hole, trying to induce a
+fish to strike. He said: 'There's an old villain in there; he wants to
+strike but can't make up his mind to do it.' I said: 'I have a fly that
+will make him strike,' and as I had my book in my pocket I handed him a
+No. 8 Pitcher. He made two casts and hooked a beautiful trout, that
+weighed nineteen ounces, down. I regard the Pitcher as the best killer
+in my book."
+
+                         J. E. MONROE, Dillon, Montana.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"I determined to follow the stream up into the mountains, but as I
+neared the woods at the upper end of the meadow I stopped to cast into a
+long, straight reach of the river where the breeze from the ocean was
+rippling the surface of the stream. The grassy bank rose steep behind me
+and only a little fringe of wild roses partly concealed me from the
+water. I cast the Pitcher flies you gave me well out on the rough water,
+allowed them to sink a hand-breadth, and at the first movement of the
+line I saw that heart-expanding flash of a broad silver side gleaming
+from the clear depths. The trout fastened on savagely, and as he was
+coming my way, I assisted his momentum with all the spring of the rod,
+and he came flying out into the clean, fresh grass of the meadow behind
+me. It was a half-pound speckled brook trout. I did not stop to pouch
+him, but cast again. In a moment I was fast to another such, and again I
+sprung him bodily out, glistening like a silver ingot, to where his
+brother lay. In my first twelve casts I took ten such fish, all from ten
+to twelve inches long, mostly without any playing. I took twenty-two
+fine fish without missing one strike, and landed every one safely. I was
+not an hour in taking the lot. Then oddly enough, I whipped the water
+for fifty yards without another rise. Satisfied that the circus was
+over, I climbed up into the meadow and gathered the spoils into my
+basket. Nearly all were brook trout, but two or three silvery salmon
+trout among them had struck quite as gamely. I had such a weight of fish
+as I never took before on the Nekanicum in our most fortunate fishing."
+
+[Illustration: _Talking It Over_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _Beaver Dam and Reservoir_]
+
+"Walking back along the trail, I came again to the long reach where I
+had my luck an hour before, and cast again to see if there might be
+another fish. Two silver glints shone up through the waves in the same
+instant. I struck one of the two fish, though I might have had both if I
+had left the flies unmoved the fraction of a second. Three times I
+refused such doublets, for I had not changed an inch of tackle, and
+scarcely even looked the casting line over. It was no time to allow two
+good fish to go raking that populous pool. However I did take chances
+with one doublet. So out of the same lucky spot on my return, I took ten
+more fish each about a foot long. I brought nearly every one flying out
+as I struck him, and I never put such a merciless strain on a rod
+before.
+
+[Illustration: "_That Populous Pool_"
+
+  _Photo by John Gill_]
+
+"I had concluded again that the new tenantry had all been evicted, and
+was casting 'most extended' trying the powers of the rod and reaching, I
+should say, sixty feet out. As the flies came half-way in and I was just
+about snatching them out for a long back cast, the father of the family
+soared after them in a gleaming arc. He missed by not three inches and
+bored his way straight down into the depths of the clear green water.
+'My heart went out to him,' as our friend Wells said, but coaxing was
+in vain. I tried them above and below, sinking the flies deeply, or
+dropping them airily upon the waves, but to no purpose. I had the
+comforting thought that we may pick him up when you are here this
+summer."
+
+                              JOHN GILL, Portland, Oregon.
+
+
+_THE BONNY RED HECKLE_
+
+      Away frae the smoke an' the smother,
+        Away frae the crush o' the thrang!
+      Away frae the labour an' pother
+        That have fettered our freedom sae lang!
+      For the May's i' full bloom i' the hedges
+        And the laverock's aloft i' the blue,
+      An' the south wind sings low i' the sedges,
+        By haughs that are silvery wi' dew.
+      Up, angler, off wi' each shackle!
+        Up, gad and gaff, and awa'!
+      Cry 'Hurrah for the canny red heckle,
+        The heckle that tackled them a'!'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+      Then back to the smoke and the smother,
+        The uproar and crush o' the thrang;
+      An' back to the labour and pother,
+        But happy and hearty and strang.
+      Wi' a braw light o' mountain and muirland,
+        Outflashing frae forehead and e'e,
+      Wi' a blessing flung back to the norland,
+        An' a thousand, dear Coquet, to thee!
+      As again we resume the old shackle,
+        Our gad an' our gaff stowed awa',
+      An'--goodbye to the canny 'red heckle,'
+        The heckle that tackled them a'!'
+             --From "The Lay of the Lea." By _Thomas Westwood_.
+
+      NOTE--I am indebted to Mrs. Mary Orvis Marbury, author
+      of "Favorite Flies," for copies of "Hey for Coquet,"
+      and "Farewell to Coquet," from the former of which the
+      foregoing are extracts.
+
+
+
+
+_GRIZZLY LAKE AND LAKE ROSE_
+
+  "And best of all, through twilight's calm
+  The hermit-thrush repeats his psalm."
+                           _Henry Van Dyke_
+
+
+[Illustration: _Grizzly Lake_]
+
+GRIZZLY LAKE lies secluded among the timbered hills, four miles
+south--south and west--from Willow Park. The long narrow bed of the lake
+was furrowed by a glacier that once debouched here from the mountains to
+the west, and through the gravel and detritus that surround it the
+melting snows and rain are filtered till the water is fit for the
+Olympian deities. No more profitable place can be found for the angler
+to visit. The lake swarms with brook trout weighing from one to five
+pounds, and in the ice-cold water which is supplied with an abundance of
+insect and crustacean food the fish are in prime condition after July
+first. The best fishing is at the southern end, near where Straight
+Creek enters the lake. A little investigation will discover close at
+hand, several large springs that flow into the lake at this point, and
+here the trout congregate after the spawning season.
+
+[Illustration: _Lake Rose_]
+
+In order to reach this location conveniently, I, early in 1902,
+constructed a light raft of dry pine logs, about six by ten feet, well
+spiked together with drift bolts; since which time other parties have
+added a substantial row boat. Both the boat and the raft may be found at
+the lower end of the lake, just where the trail brings you to it. The
+canvas boat that was set up on the lake earlier, was destroyed the first
+winter by bears, but the boat and raft now there will probably hold
+their own against the beasts of the field for some time. If you use
+either of them you will, of course, return it to the outlet of the lake,
+that he who cometh after may also enjoy.
+
+The route to Grizzly Lake follows very closely the Bannock Indian trail
+from the point where Straight Creek enters the meadows of Willow Park to
+the outlet of the lake. The trail itself is interesting. It was the
+great Indian thoroughfare between Idaho and the Big Horn Basin in
+Wyoming, and was doubtless an ancient one at the time the Romans
+dominated Britain. How plainly the record tells you that it was made by
+an aboriginal people. Up hill and down hill, across marsh or meadow, it
+is always a single trail, trodden into furrow-like distinctness by
+moccasined feet. Nowhere does it permit the going abreast of the beasts
+of draft or burden. At no place does it suggest the side-by-side travel
+of the white man for companionship's sake, nor the hand-in-hand
+converse of mother and child, lover and maid. Ease your pony a moment
+here and dream. Here comes the silent procession on its way to barter in
+the land of the stranger, and here again it will return in the autumn,
+as it has done for a thousand years. In the van are the blanketed
+braves, brimful of in-toeing, painful dignity. Behind these follow the
+ponies drawing the lodge-poles and camp outfit, and then come the squaws
+and the children. Just there is a bend in the trail and the lodge-poles
+have abraded the tree in the angle till it is worn half through. A
+little further on, in an open glade, they camped for the night. Decades
+have come and gone since the last Indian party passed this way, yet a
+cycle hence the trail will be distinct at intervals.
+
+[Illustration: _The Bighorn Range_
+
+  _Photo by N. H. Darton_]
+
+By turning to the west at Winter Creek and passing over the sharp hills
+that border that stream you will come, at the end of a nine-mile
+journey, to Lake Rose. The way is upward through groves of pane,
+thickets of aspen, and steep open glades surrounded by silver fir trees
+that would be the delight of a landscape gardener if he could cause them
+to grow in our city parks as they do here. Elk are everywhere. We ride
+through and around bands of them, male, female, and odd-shapen calves
+with wobbly legs and luminous, questioning eyes. As you pause now and
+then to contemplate some new view of the wilderness unfolding before
+you, the beauty, and freedom and serenity of it are irresistible, and
+you comprehend for the first time the spirit of the Argonauts of '49 and
+the nobility of the paean they chanted to express their exalted
+brotherhood:
+
+  "The days of old,
+   The days of gold,
+   The days of '49."
+
+[Illustration: _Gorge of the Firehole River_]
+
+[Illustration: _A Wooded Islet_]
+
+Suddenly the ground slopes away before us and Lake Rose lies at our
+feet, like an amethyst in a chalice of jade-green onyx. The surroundings
+are picturesque. The mountains descend abruptly to the water's edge and
+the snow never quite disappears from its banks in the longest summer.
+Here in June may be seen that incredible thing, the wild strawberry
+blossoming bravely above the slush-snow that still hides the plant
+below, and the bitter-root putting forth buds in the lee of a snow bank.
+A small stream enters the lake at the northwest, and here the trout are
+most abundant. They rise eagerly to the silver doctor fly, a half dozen
+often breaking at once, any one of which is a weight for a rod. Probably
+not more than a score of anglers have ever cast a fly from this point,
+and a word of caution may for this reason be pardoned. The low
+temperature of the water retards the spawning season till midsummer,
+consequently trout should not be taken here earlier than the third week
+of July. Again, nature has given to every true sportsman the good sense
+to stop when he has enough, and as this unwritten law is practically his
+only restraint, he should feel that its observance is in safe hands and
+that the sportsman's limit will be strictly observed.
+
+[Illustration: _Bear Up!_]
+
+
+
+
+_A MORNING ON IRON CREEK_
+
+
+[Illustration: _The Boy and the von Behr_]
+
+WHEN the snows have disappeared from the valleys and lower hills, and
+the streams have fallen to the level of their banks and their waters
+have lost the brown stain filtered from decaying leaves, and have
+resumed the chatty, confidential tones of summer, then is the time to
+angle for the brown trout. If you would know the exact hour, listen for
+the brigadier bird as he sings morning and evening from a tall tree at
+the mouth of Iron Creek. When you hear his lonely wood-note, joint your
+rod and take the path through the lodge-pole pines that brings you to
+the creek about three hundred yards above its confluence with the river.
+The lush grass of the meadow is ankle-deep with back water from the main
+stream, and Iron Creek and the Little Firehole lie level-lipped and
+currentless. As you look quietly on from the shade of a tree, the water
+breaks into circles in a dozen places, and just at the edge of a bank
+where the sod overhangs the stream there is a mighty splash which is
+repeated several times. Move softly, for the ground is spongy and
+vibrates under a heavy tread sufficiently to warn the fish for many
+yards, then the stream becomes suddenly silent and you will wait long
+for the trout to resume their feeding.
+
+[Illustration: _Rapids of the Gibbon River_]
+
+[Illustration: _Along Iron Creek_]
+
+Stealthily drop the fly just over the edge of the bank, as though some
+witless insect had lost his hold above and fallen!--Right Honorable Dean
+of the Guild, I read the other day an article in which you stated that
+the brown trout never leaps on a slack line. Surely you are right, and
+this is not a trout after all, but a flying fish, for he went down
+stream in three mighty and unexpected leaps that wrecked your theory and
+the top joint of the rod before the line could be retrieved. Then the
+fly comes limply home and nothing remains of the sproat hook but the
+shank.
+
+[Illustration: _Divinity and Infinity_]
+
+These things happened to a friend in less time than is taken in the
+telling. When he had recovered from the shock he remarked, smilingly,
+"That wasn't half bad for a Dutchman, now, was it?" As he is a sensible
+fellow and has no "tendency toward effeminate attenuation" in tackle, he
+graciously accepted and used the proffered cast of Pitcher flies tied on
+number six O'Shaughnessy hooks.
+
+Having ventured this much concerning what the writer considers _proper_
+tackle, he would like to go further and record here his disapproval of
+the individual who turns up his nose at any rod of over five ounces in
+weight, and who tells you with an air from which you are expected to
+infer much, that fly fishing is really the only _honorable_ and
+_gentlemanly_ manner of taking trout. In the language of one who was a
+master of concise and forceful phrase, "This is one of the deplorable
+fishing affectations and pretences which the rank and file of the
+fraternity ought openly to expose and repudiate. Our irritation is
+greatly increased when we recall the fact that every one of these
+super-refined fly-casting dictators, when he fails to allure trout by
+his most scientific casts, will chase grasshoppers to the point of
+profuse perspiration, and turn over logs and stones with feverish
+anxiety in quest of worms and grubs, if haply he can with these save
+himself from empty-handedness."[B] Fly fishing as a recreation justifies
+all good that has been written of it, but it is a tell-tale sport that
+infallibly informs your associates what manner of being you are. It is
+self-purifying like the limpid mountain stream its followers love, and
+no wrong-minded individual nor set of individuals can ever pollute it.
+It is too cosmopolitan a pleasure to belong to the exclusive, and too
+robust in sentiment to be confined to gossamer gut leaders and midge
+hooks.
+
+Much, in fact everything, of your success in taking fish in Iron Creek
+depends on the time of your visit. For three hundred, thirty days of the
+year it is profitless water. Then come the days when the German trout
+begin their annual _auswanderung_. No one need be told that these trout
+do not live in this creek throughout the year. For trout are brook-wise
+or river-wise according as they have been reared, and the habits,
+attitudes and behavior of the one are as different from the other as are
+those of the boys and girls reared in the country from the city-bred. If
+one of these river-bred fish breaks from the hook here he does not
+immediately bore up stream into deep water and disappear beneath a
+sheltering log, bank or submerged tree-top as one would having a claim
+on these waters, but heading down-stream, he stays not for brake and he
+stops not for stone till the river is reached. In his headlong haste to
+escape he reminds one of a country boy going for a doctor.
+
+[Illustration: _Virginia Cascade_]
+
+It is one of the unexplained phenomena of trout life and habit, why
+these fish leap as they do here at this season, when hooked. In no other
+stream and at no other time have I known them to exhibit this quality.
+It is one of those problems of trout activity for which apparently no
+reason can be given further than the one which is said to control the
+fair sex;
+
+  "When she will she will,
+   And you may depend on't;
+   When she won't she won't,
+   And that's an end on't."
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+      "I'm wrapped up in my plaid, and lyin' a' my length on
+      a bit green platform, fit for the fairies' feet, wi' a
+      craig hangin' ower me a thousand feet high, yet bright
+      and balmy a' the way up wi' flowers and briars, and
+      broom and birks, and mosses maist beautiful to behold
+      wi' half shut e'e, and through aneath ane's arm
+      guardin' the face frae the cloudless sunshine; and
+      perhaps a bit bonny butterfly is resting wi' faulded
+      wings on a gowan, no a yard frae your cheek; and noo
+      waukening out o' a simmer dream floats awa' in its
+      wavering beauty, but, as if unwilling to leave its
+      place of mid-day sleep, comin' back and back, and
+      roun' and roun' on this side and that side, and ettlin
+      in its capricious happiness to fasten again on some
+      brighter floweret, till the same breath o' wund that
+      lifts up your hair so refreshingly catches the airy
+      voyager and wafts her away into some other nook of her
+      ephemeral paradise."
+                                   CHRISTOPHER NORTH.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[Footnote B: Hon. Grover Cleveland in _The Saturday Evening Post_.]
+
+
+
+
+_AN AFTERNOON ON THE FIREHOLE_
+
+
+[Illustration: _First View of the Firehole_]
+
+THE Firehole is a companionable river. Notwithstanding its forbidding
+name, it is pre-eminently a stream for the angler, and always does its
+best to put him at his ease. Like some hospitable manorial lord, it
+comes straight down the highway for a league to greet the stranger and
+to offer him the freedom of its estate. Every fisherman who goes much
+alone along streams will unconsciously associate certain human
+attributes with the qualities of the waters he fishes. It may be a quiet
+charm that lulls to rest, or a bold current that challenges his
+endurance and caution. Between these extremes there is all that infinite
+range of moods and fancies which find their counterpart in the emotions.
+The Firehole possesses many of these qualities in a high degree. It can
+be broad, sunny and genial, or whisper with a scarcely audible lisp over
+languid, trailing beds of conferva; and anon, lead you with tumultuous
+voice between rocky walls where a misstep would be disastrous. The
+unfortunate person who travels in its company for the time required to
+make the tour of the Park and remains indifferent to all phases of its
+many-sidedness, should turn back. Nature will have no communion with
+him, nor will he gain her little secrets and confidences:
+
+  "They're just beyond the skyline,
+   Howe'er so far you cruise."
+
+[Illustration: _Cascades of the Madison_]
+
+[Illustration: _Below the Cascades_]
+
+During the restful period following the noon-hour, when there is a truce
+between fisherman and fish, we lie in the shadow of the pines and read
+"Our Lady's Tumbler," till, in the drowsy mind fancy plays an interlude
+with fact. The ripple of the distant stream becomes the patter of
+priestly feet down dim corridors, and the whisper of the pines the
+rustle of sacerdotal robes. Through half-shut lids we see the clouds
+drift across the slopes of a distant mountain, double as it were, cloud
+and snow bank vying with each other in whiteness.
+
+[Illustration: _Undine Falls_]
+
+Neither the companionship of man nor that of a boisterous stream will
+accord with our present mood. So, with rod in hand, we ford the stream
+above the island and lie down amid the wild flowers in the shadow of the
+western hill. For wild flowers, like patriotism, seemingly reach their
+highest perfection amid conditions of soil and climate that are
+apparently most uncongenial. Here almost in reach of hand, are a variety
+and profusion of flowers rarely found in the most favored spots;
+columbines, gentians, forget-me-nots, asters and larkspurs, are all in
+bloom at the same moment, for the summer is short and nature has trained
+them to thrust forth their leaves beneath the very heel of winter and to
+bear bud, flower, and fruit within the compass of fifty days.
+
+I strongly urge every tourist, angling or otherwise, to carry with him
+both a camera and a herbarium. With these he may preserve invaluable
+records of his outing; one to remind him of the lavish panorama of
+beauty of mountain, lake and waterfall; the other to hold within its
+leaves the delicately colored flowers that delight the senses. A great
+deal is said about the cheap tourist nowadays, with the emphasis so
+placed on the word "cheap" as to create a wrong impression. With the
+manner of your travel, whether in Pullman cars, Concord coaches,
+buck-board wagons, or on foot, this adjective has nothing to do. It
+does, however, describe pretty accurately a quality of mind too often
+found among visitors to such places--a mind that looks only to the
+present and passing events, and that between intervals of
+geyser-chasing, is busied with inconsequential gabble, with no thought
+of selecting the abiding, permanent things as treasures for the
+storehouse of memory.
+
+What fisherman is there who has not in his fly-book a dozen or more
+flies that are perennial reminders of great piscatorial events? And what
+angler is there who does not love to go over them at times, one by one,
+and recall the incidents surrounding the history of each?
+
+  We fondle the flies in our fancy,
+    Selecting a cast that will kill,
+  Then wait till a breeze from the canyon
+    Has rimpled the water so still;--
+      Teal, and Fern, and Beaver,
+  Coachman, and Caddis, and Herl,--
+  And dream that the king of the river
+  Lies under the foam of that swirl.
+
+  There's a feather from far Tioga,
+    And one from the Nepigon,
+  And one from the upper Klamath
+    That tell of battles won--
+      Palmer, and Hackle, and Alder,
+  Claret, and Polka, and Brown,--
+  Each one a treasured memento
+  Of days that have come and gone.
+
+  A joust of hardiest conflict
+    With knight in times of eld
+  Would bring a lesser pleasure
+    Than each of these victories held.
+      Rapids, and foam, and smother,
+  Lunge, and thrust, and leap,--
+  And to know that the barbed feather
+  Is fastened sure and deep.
+
+  Abbey, and Chantry, and Quaker,
+    Dorset and Canada,
+  Premier, Hare's Ear, and Hawthorne,
+    Brown Ant, and Yellow May,
+      Jungle-Cock, Pheasant, and Triumph,
+  Romeyn, and Montreal,
+  Are names that will ever linger
+  In the sunlight of Memory Hall.
+
+The whole field of angling literature contains nothing more exquisite
+than the following description of the last days of Christopher North, as
+written by his daughter:
+
+"It was an affecting sight to see him busy, nay, quite absorbed with the
+fishing tackle scattered about the bed, propped up with pillows--his
+noble head, yet glorious with its flowing locks, carefully combed by
+attentive hands, and falling on each side of his unfaded face. How
+neatly he picked out each elegantly dressed fly from its little bunch,
+drawing it out with trembling hand along the white coverlet, and then
+replacing it in his pocket-book, he would tell ever and anon of the
+streams he used to fish in of old."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _Picturesque Rocks in River_]
+
+By four o'clock the stream is hidden from the sun and the shadow of the
+wooded summit at your back has crossed the roadway and is climbing the
+heights beyond. As if moved by some signal unheard by the listener, the
+trout begin to feed all along the surface of the water. Leap follows or
+accompanies leap as far as the eye can discern up stream, and down
+stream to where the water breaks to the downpull of the gorge below.
+Select a clear space for your back-cast, wait till a cloud obscures the
+sun. * * * * The trout took the fly from below and with a momentum that
+carried him full-length into the air. But there was no turning of the
+body in the arc that artists love to picture. He dropped straight down
+as he arose and the waters closed over him with a "plop" which you learn
+afterward is characteristic of the rise and strike of the German trout.
+All this may not be observed at first, for if he is one of the big
+fellows, he will cut out some busy-work for you to prevent his going
+under the top of that submerged tree which you had not noticed before.
+As it was, you brought him clear by a scant hand's breadth, only to
+have him dive for another similar one with greater energy.
+
+[Illustration: "_That Delectable Island_"]
+
+Well, it's the same old story over again, but one that never becomes
+altogether tedious to the angler. And the profitable part of this tale
+is that it may be re-enacted here on any summer afternoon.
+
+Some day a canoe will float down the river and land on the gravelly
+beach at the upper end of that delectable island, just where the trees
+are mirrored in the water so picturesquely. Then a tent will be set up
+and two shall possess that island for a whole, happy week. If you are
+coming by that road then, give the "Hallo" of the fellow craft and you
+shall have a loaf and as many fish as you like, and be sent on your way
+as becomes a man and brother.
+
+
+
+
+_TRAILS FROM YANCEY'S AND OTHER TRAILS_
+
+
+[Illustration: _Yancey's_]
+
+WHEN "Uncle" John Yancey, peace to his ashes, selected the site for his
+home and built his cabin under the shelter of the mountain at the north
+end of Pleasant Valley, he displayed that capacity to discover and
+appropriate the best things of the earth which is characteristic of
+American pioneers. Here game was abundant and everything that a remote,
+mountainous country could supply to the frontiersman was at hand. A
+stream of purest water ran by the door, and the open, grassy meadows
+were ample for the supply of hay and pasturage. The scenery is
+delightful, varied and picturesque. No other locality in the Park is
+comparable with it as a place of abode, and there is no pleasanter place
+in which to spend a week than at "Yancey's."
+
+The government has recently completed a road from the canyon of the
+Yellowstone, over Mt. Washburn, down the valley near Yancey's, and
+reaching Mammoth Hot Springs by way of Lava Creek. This has added
+another day to the itinerary of the Park as planned by the
+transportation companies, and one which for scenic interest surpasses
+any other day of the tour. A mere category of the places of interest
+that may be seen in this region would be lengthy.
+
+The lower canyon of the Yellowstone with its overhanging walls five
+hundred feet high, with pillars of columnar basalt reaching more than
+half-way from base to summit, the petrified trees, lofty cliffs, and
+romantic waterfalls, will delight and charm the visitor.
+
+[Illustration: "_Swirl and Sweep of the Water_"]
+
+The angler will find the waters of this region as abundantly supplied
+with trout as any area of like extent anywhere. No amount of fishing
+will ever exhaust the "Big Eddy" of the Yellowstone, and it is worth a
+day's journey to witness the swirl and sweep of the water after it
+emerges from the confining, vertical walls. The velocity of the current
+at this point is very great, and surely, during a flood, attains a speed
+of sixteen or more miles an hour. In the eddy itself the trout rise
+indifferently to the fly, but will come to the red-legged grasshopper as
+long as the supply lasts.
+
+Strange to say, they will not take the grasshopper on the surface of the
+water. Two bright faced boys who had climbed down into the canyon
+watched me whip the pool in every direction for a quarter of an hour
+without taking a single trout. Satisfied that something was wrong, I
+fastened a good sized Rangeley sinker to the leader about a foot above
+the hook and pitched the grasshopper into the buffeting currents. An
+hour later we carried back to camp twenty-five trout which, placed
+endwise, head to tail, measured twenty-five feet on a tape line.
+
+This use of a sinker under the circumstances was not a great discovery,
+but it spelled the difference between success and failure at the time.
+So I have been glad at most times to learn by experience and from others
+the little things that help make a better day's angling.
+
+[Illustration: _The Palisades_]
+
+Once when I knew more about trout fishing than I have ever convinced
+myself that I knew since, I visited a famous stream in a wilderness new
+and unknown to me, fully resolved to show the natives how to do things.
+Near the end of the third day of almost fruitless fishing, the modest
+guide volunteered to take me out that evening, if I cared to go. Of
+course I cared to go, and I shall never forget that moonlight night on
+Beaver Creek. We returned to camp about ten o'clock with twenty-eight
+trout, four of which weighed better than three pounds apiece.
+
+[Illustration: _A Young Corsair of the Plains_]
+
+It may be a severe shock to the sensibilities of the "super-refined
+fly-caster" to suggest so mean a bait as grasshoppers, yet he may obtain
+some comfort, as did one aforetime, by labeling the can in which the
+hoppers are carried:
+
+                  "_CALOPTENOUS FEMUR-RUBRUM_."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Then there are Slough Creek, Hell-Roaring Creek, East Fork, Trout Lake,
+and a host of other streams and lakes that have been favorite resorts
+with anglers for years, and in which may be taken the very leviathans of
+six, seven, eight, and even ten, pounds' weight. He must be difficult to
+please who finds not a day of days among them. Up to the present time
+only the red-throat trout inhabit these waters, but plants of other
+varieties have been made and will doubtless thrive quite as well as the
+native trout.
+
+[Illustration: _Tower Falls_]
+
+Owing probably to the fact that, until recently, the region around Tower
+Creek and Falls was not accessible by roads, this stream received no
+attention from the fish commission till the summer of 1903, when a
+meager plant of 15,000 brook trout fry was made there. The scenery in
+this neighborhood is unsurpassed, and when the stream becomes well
+stocked it will, doubtless, be a favorite resort with anglers who
+delight in mountain fastnesses or in the study of geological records of
+past ages. The drainage basin of Tower Creek coincides with the limits
+of the extinct crater of an ancient volcano. As you stand amid the dark
+forests with which the walls of the crater are clothed and see the
+evidences on all sides of the Titanic forces once at work here, fancy
+has but little effort in picturing something of the tremendous scenes
+once enacted on this spot. Now all is peace and quiet, the quiet of the
+wilderness, which save for the rush of the torrential stream, is
+absolutely noiseless. No song of bird gladdens the darkened forests, and
+in its gloom the wild animals are seldom or never seen. How strikingly
+the silence and wonder of the scene proclaim that nature has formed the
+world for the happiness of man.
+
+Within two hundred yards of the Yellowstone River, Tower Creek passes
+over a fall of singular and romantic beauty. Major Chittenden in his
+book "The Yellowstone" thus describes it: "This waterfall is the most
+beautiful in the Park, if one takes into consideration all its
+surroundings. The fall itself is very graceful in form. The deep
+cavernous basin into which it pours itself is lined with shapely
+evergreen trees, so that the fall is partially screened from view. Above
+it stand those peculiar forms of rock characteristic of that
+locality--detached pinnacles or towers which give rise to the name. The
+lapse of more than thirty years since Lieutenant Doane saw these falls,
+has given us nothing descriptive of them that can compare with the
+simple words of his report penned upon the first inspiration of a new
+discovery: 'Nothing can be more chastely beautiful than this lovely
+cascade, hidden away in the dim light of overshadowing rocks and woods,
+its very voice hushed to a low murmur unheard at the distance of a few
+hundred yards. Thousands might pass by within half a mile and not dream
+of its existence; but once seen, it passes to the list of most pleasant
+memories.'"
+
+[Illustration: _The Shadow of a Cliff_]
+
+If the angler wanders farther into the wilderness than any waters named
+herein would lead him, he will find other streams to bear him company
+amid scenes that will live long in his memory and where the trout are
+ever ready to pay him the compliment of a rise. To the eastward flows
+Shoshone river with its myriad tributaries, teeming with trout and
+draining a region far more rugged and lofty than the Park proper. To the
+south and west are those wonderfully beautiful lakes that form the
+source of the Snake river. Here, early in the season, the great lake or
+Macinac trout, _Salvelinus namaycush_, are occasionally taken with a
+trolling spoon.
+
+From north to south, from the Absaroka Mountains to the Tetons, on both
+sides of the continental divide, this peerless pleasuring-ground is
+netted with a lace-work of streams. Two score lakes and more than one
+hundred, sixty streams are named on the map of this domain which is
+forever secured and safeguarded
+
+  "_FOR THE BENEFIT AND ENJOYMENT OF THE PEOPLE_"
+
+[Illustration: _Good Bye Till Next Year_]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+Obvious punctuation errors repaired.
+
+Page 26, "Whpskehegan" changed to "Waskahegan" (fished the Waskahegan)
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Fly Fishing in Wonderland, by Klahowya
+
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