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diff --git a/37272.txt b/37272.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6496de2 --- /dev/null +++ b/37272.txt @@ -0,0 +1,13373 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Stage-coach and Tavern Days, by Alice Morse Earle + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Stage-coach and Tavern Days + +Author: Alice Morse Earle + +Release Date: August 30, 2011 [EBook #37272] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STAGE-COACH AND TAVERN DAYS *** + + + + +Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + +Stage-coach and Tavern Days + + + + +[Illustration: Travel in the South in the Thirties. _Frontispiece._] + + + + + STAGE-COACH AND TAVERN DAYS + + + By ALICE MORSE EARLE + + Author of _Home Life in Colonial Days_, _Child Life in + Colonial Days_, and other Social and Domestic + Histories of Colonial Times + + + "_Long ago, at the end of the route, + The stage pulled up, and the folks stepped out. + They have all passed under the tavern door-- + The youth and his bride and the gray three-score. + Their eyes were weary with dust and gleam, + The day had gone like an empty dream. + Soft may they slumber, and trouble no more + For their eager journey, its jolt and roar, + In the old coach over the mountain._" + + + NEW YORK + THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., LTD. + 1900 + + _All rights reserved_ + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1900, + BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY. + + + _Norwood Press + J. S. Cushing & Co.--Berwick & Smith + Norwood, Mass., U.S.A._ + + + + +_TO MY HUSBAND HENRY EARLE_ + + + + +Contents + + + Chapter Page + + I. The Puritan Ordinary 1 + + II. Old-time Taverns 30 + + III. The Tavern Landlord 62 + + IV. Tavern Fare and Tavern Ways 76 + + V. Kill-devil and its Affines 100 + + VI. Small Drink 121 + + VII. Signs and Symbols 138 + + VIII. The Tavern in War 170 + + IX. The Tavern Panorama 194 + + X. From Path to Turnpike 223 + + XI. Packhorse and Conestoga Wagon 241 + + XII. Early Stage-coaches and Other Vehicles 253 + + XIII. Two Stage Veterans of Massachusetts 291 + + XIV. A Staging Centre 308 + + XV. The Stage-driver 320 + + XVI. The Romance of the Road 340 + + XVII. The Pains of Stage-coach Travel 361 + + XVIII. Knights of the Road 373 + + XIX. Tavern Ghosts 409 + + + + +List of Illustrations + + + Travel in the South in the Thirties. From painting + by Edward Lamson Henry, N.A. _Frontispiece_ + + Page + + Ordinary at Duxbury, Mass. 3 + + Taproom Furnishings of an Old Ordinary. Owned by Miss + Elizabeth Nicholson, Providence, R. I. 7 + + Oldest House in Easton, Mass.; once an Ordinary 10 + + Leather Black-jack 14 + + Tavern Bill against East Church, Salem, Mass. Owned by + Essex Institute 16 + + Taproom of Wayside Inn, Sudbury, Mass. 19 + + Buckman Tavern, 1690, Lexington, Mass. 23 + + Hound-handle Tavern Pitcher 26 + + Sign-board of Hayden Tavern, Essex, Conn. Owned by + Connecticut Historical Society 28 + + Indian Queen Tavern, Bladensburg, Md. From painting by + Edward Lamson Henry, N.A. _facing_ 32 + + Old Road House, Md. 34 + + Plate, City Hotel, N. Y., Staffordshire Ware 38 + + Cato's House, N. Y. From an old print 41 + + Washington Tavern, Westfield, Mass. 43 + + Door Latch, Washington Tavern, Westfield, Mass. 45 + + Wadsworth Inn, Hartford, Conn. Photographed by Mr. George + C. Atwell, Hartford, Conn. 47 + + Taproom, Wadsworth Inn, Hartford, Conn. 51 + + Fountain Inn, Medford, Mass. 54 + + Sign-board of N. Mowry's Inn, Lime Rock, R. I. Owned by + Miss Elizabeth Nicholson, Providence, R. I. 57 + + Pine-tree Tavern and Eagle Tavern, East Poultney, Vt. 59 + + Sign-board of Washington Hotel, Salem, Mass. Owned by + Essex Institute 63 + + Sign-board of Hays' Tavern, West Brattleboro, Vt. 65 + + Cooper Tavern, Arlington, Mass. 68 + + Travellers' Rest, Shelbyville, Ky., 1783 71 + + Miller's Tavern, Lancaster, Penn. 73 + + Ellery Tavern, front, Gloucester, Mass. 79 + + Ellery Tavern, lean-to, Gloucester, Mass. 83 + + Bill of Cromwell's Head Tavern, Boston, Mass. Owned + by Mrs. H. M. Hunt, Kingston, R. I. _facing_ 86 + + Bill of Fare of City Hotel, Hartford, Conn. Owned by + Mr. George F. Ives, Danbury, Conn. 89 + + Platter, Mendenhall Ferry and Tavern, Schuylkill River, + Penn. Owned by Miss Frances C. Morse, Worcester, Mass. 93 + + Collin's Tavern, Naugatuck, Conn. Photographed by Mr. + George C. Atwell, Hartford, Conn. 97 + + Old Rum Bottles 102 + + Burgoyne Tavern, Westfield, Mass. 106 + + Tavern Pitcher, Happy Farmer, Crouch Ware 109 + + Flip Glasses, Loggerhead and Toddy Stick. Owned by + Pocumtuck Valley Historical Association 110 + + Porcelain Monteith Bowl, 1700 115 + + Punch Bowl, bearing Insignia of Order of the Cincinnati, + Chinese Ware 117 + + Sign-board of Amherst Hotel, Amherst, Mass. From History + of Amherst 123 + + Eagle Tavern and Sign-board, Newton, N. H. 126 + + Cider Pitcher and Cups, Copper Lustre Ware 129 + + Parsons' Tavern, Springfield, Mass. 131 + + Toby Fillpots, Staffordshire Ware. Owned by Miss Frances + C. Morse, Worcester, Mass. 134 + + Flip Glasses and Nutmeg Holders. Owned by Miss Frances + C. Morse, Worcester, Mass. 136 + + Sign-board, Stratton Tavern, Northfield Farms, Mass. Owned + by Pocumtuck Valley Historical Association 140 + + Sign-board, Three Crowns Tavern, Salisbury, Lancaster + County, Penn. Painted by Benjamin West 143 + + Browne's Hall, Danvers, Mass. 145 + + Hat Tavern and Sign-board, Leacock Township, Lancaster + County, Penn. Sign-board painted by Benjamin West 147 + + Sign-board, Bissell's Tavern, East Windsor, Conn. Owned + by Miss Emma B. King, Indianapolis, Ind. 151 + + Sign-board, Reverse Side, Bissell's Tavern, East Windsor, + Conn. Owned by Miss Emma B. King, Indianapolis, Ind. 153 + + Sign-board of William Pitt Tavern, Lancaster, Penn. 156 + + Sign-board, Doolittle Tavern 158 + + Sign-board, "A Man loaded with Mischief," London, Eng. + Painted by Hogarth _facing_ 160 + + Sign-board of Walker's Tavern, Charlestown, N. H. Owned + by Worcester Society of Antiquity 162 + + Drawing for Ames Sign-board, Dedham, Mass. 165 + + Buck Horn Tavern, N. Y., 1812. From an old print 168 + + Old North Bridge, Concord, Mass. _facing_ 172 + + Boston Liberty Tree and Tavern. From an old print 174 + + Stavers Inn, Portsmouth, N. H. 176 + + Handbill of Wolfe Tavern, Newburyport, Mass. _facing_ 178 + + Sign-board of Wolfe Tavern, Newburyport, Mass. 180 + + Hancock Tavern, Boston, Mass. 182 + + Sam Fraunces. From original drawing. Owned by Mrs. A. + Livingstone Mason, Newport, R. I. 184 + + Green Dragon Tavern, Boston, Mass. From an old print 187 + + Conkey Tavern, Pelham, Mass. From History of Pelham _facing_ 188 + + Sign-board of Conkey Tavern. From History of Pelham 190 + + Naval Pitcher, Liverpool Ware 192 + + Washington Tavern, North Wilbraham, Mass. 196 + + Black Horse Tavern, Salem, Mass. 199 + + Sign-board, Stickney Tavern, Concord, N. H. Owned by New + Hampshire Historical Society 203 + + Sign-board of Keeler's Tavern, Ridgefield, Conn. 205 + + Plate, Nahant Hotel, Staffordshire Ware 206 + + Sign-board of Wolfe Tavern, Brooklyn, Conn. Owned by + Connecticut Historical Society 211 + + Postlethwaite's Tavern, Lancaster County, Penn. 214 + + Sign-board of Pembroke Tavern, Plymouth Turnpike, Mass. + Owned by Bostonian Society 217 + + Map Pitcher, Liverpool Ware 220 + + Waiting at the Ferry. Painted by Edward Lamson Henry, + N.A. _facing_ 226 + + Old Chain Bridge, Newburyport, Mass. _facing_ 230 + + Bridge Toll-board. Owned by Mr. A. G. Richmond, + Canajoharie, N. Y. 233 + + Megunticook Turnpike 235 + + Advertisement of Mail-stage 236 + + Bridge Sign-board. Owned by Bucks County Historical + Society 239 + + A Wayside Friend, North Conway, N. H. From photograph + by T. E. M. and G. H. White _facing_ 242 + + Conestoga Wagon. Photographed from an old wagon _facing_ 246 + + Stage Wagons. From print in an old English story book 251 + + English Coach, 1747. From a painting by Hogarth 254 + + Quicksilver Royal Mail, 1835, London, Eng. From an old + print _facing_ 256 + + "One Hoss Shay" _facing_ 258 + + "Washington" Chariot. Owned by Misses Francis, Spring + Green Farm, Warwick, R. I. 259 + + Advertisement of Stage Lines. From first issue of New + York _Commercial Advertiser_, 1797 261 + + Stage-coach of 1818. From an old print 264 + + Stage-coach of 1828. From an old print 265 + + Concord Coach, built in 1863. Owned by "Buffalo Bill" 266 + + Concord Coach at Toll-gate. From photograph owned by + Major Lewis Downing, Jr., Concord, N. H. _facing_ 268 + + Advertisement of Pioneer Line Stage-coaches 278 + + The Omnibus "Accommodation" between Springfield and + Chicopee Falls, 1843 273 + + Notice of Post-rider, 1799 276 + + Old Mail-coach and Sign-board, Barre, Mass., 1840 280 + + Pitcher, Quincy Railway, Staffordshire Ware 284 + + Veazie Railway, Bangor, Me. From an old print 286 + + The Arrival of the Train. From a painting by Edward + Lamson Henry, N.A. _facing_ 288 + + Uncle Ame Morris's Oxen serving as Locomotive. From + an old print 289 + + Pease Tavern, Shrewsbury, Mass. 292 + + Old Arcade, Shrewsbury, Mass. 294 + + Harrington Tavern, Shrewsbury, Mass. 299 + + Balch Tavern, Shrewsbury, Mass. 301 + + Advertisement of Ginery Twichell's Stage Lines. Owned + by American Antiquarian Society, Worcester, Mass. _facing_ 304 + + Ginery Twichell's Ride. From drawing owned by Mr. + Frederick A. Currier, Fitchburg, Mass. 306 + + Sign-board of Tarleton Inn, Piermont, Cohos Turnpike, + N. H. Owned by Mr. Amos Tarleton, Haverhill, N. H. 310 + + Sign-board, Reverse, of Tarleton Inn, Piermont, N. H. + Owned by Mr. Amos Tarleton, Haverhill, N. H. 312 + + Bliss's Tavern, Haverhill, N. H. 314 + + Old Sleigh with Double Dashboard 316 + + Old Passenger Pung 318 + + Relay House, Dorchester, Mass. 321 + + The Relay. From painting by Edward Lamson Henry, N.A. _facing_ 324 + + View of Middletown, Conn. From an old print 327 + + Deerhide and Pigskin Trunks 331 + + Old Carpet Bag. Owned by Mrs. Voice Adams Beecher, + Brooklyn, N. Y. 333 + + Sign-board of David Reed's Tavern, Bedford, Mass. Owned + by Concord Antiquarian Society 337 + + Midsummer along the Pike _facing_ 344 + + A Vista of White Birches 346 + + The Hollyhock's Promise 348 + + The Cool Depths of the Pine Woods. From photograph by + T. E. M. and G. H. White _facing_ 348 + + Taylor's Tavern, 1777, Danbury, Conn. 350 + + M. M. Taylor's Milestone, Danbury, Conn. 351 + + Peleg Arnold's Milestone, Woonsocket, R. I. From + photograph by Mr. Edward Field, Providence, R. I. 352 + + The Watering Trough 355 + + Topsfield Bridge, 1760. Ipswich River, Mass. 357 + + The Shadowy Water under the Arches. From photograph + by T. E. M. and G. H. White _facing_ 358 + + Winter Stage, Dalton, Mass. _facing_ 362 + + Winter Stage, Chepachet. From photograph by Mr. Edward + Field, Providence, R. I. 364 + + Advertisements of Carriages and Wagons. From + Connecticut _Journal_, July 3, 1815 _facing_ 368 + + A Wet Start at Daybreak. From a painting by Edward + Lamson Henry, N.A. _facing_ 370 + + The Wayside Inn, Sudbury, Mass. _facing_ 372 + + Sign-board, Perkins Inn, Hopkinton, N. H. Owned by + Mr. E. R. Guerin, Hopkinton, N. H. 375 + + Russel Tavern, Arlington, Mass. 379 + + Sign-board of Gifford's Tavern, Barrington, R. I. Owned + by Mrs. Gifford, Bristol, R. I. 381 + + Sign-board of Wells Tavern, Greenfield Meadows, Mass. + Owned by Pocumtuck Valley Historical Association 382 + + Mattapan Tavern, Relay House 389 + + Wilde Tavern, Milton, Mass., 1770 391 + + Ashburnham Thief Detecting Society. Handbill Heading 393 + + Sign-board of Humphrey Williams Tavern, Centrebrook, + Conn. Owned by Mr. George F. Ives, Danbury, Conn. 396 + + Sign-board, Reverse, of Humphrey Williams Tavern, + Centrebrook, Conn. Owned by Mr. George F. Ives, + Danbury, Conn. 400 + + Poor Tavern and Sign-board, Newburyport, Mass. 405 + + Monroe Tavern, Lexington, Mass. _facing_ 406 + + Sign-board, Dewey Tavern 411 + + Sign-board, Cutter's Tavern, Jaffray, N. H. Owned by + Mrs. Anna Cutter Roberts, Roxbury, Mass. 412 + + Banjo Clock, with Painting of Pahquoique House on Glass + Door. Owned by Mr. George F. Ives, Danbury, Conn. 414 + + Wright Tavern, Concord, Mass. 417 + + Sign-board of Moses Hill's Inn, Douglas, Mass. 419 + + Sign-board of John Nash's Tavern, Amherst, Mass. From + History of Amherst 421 + + Montague City Tavern 425 + + Old Abbey, Bloomingdale Road, New York 428 + + After the Shower. From painting by Edward Lamson + Henry, N. A. _facing_ 430 + + Tavern Pitcher, Apotheosis of Washington. Liverpool Ware 430 + + Sign-board of Grosvenor Inn, Pomfret, Conn. 432 + + The Parting of the Ways, Dublin, N. H. _facing_ 434 + + + + +Stage-coach and Tavern Days + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THE PURITAN ORDINARY + + +In reverent and affectionate retrospective view of the influences and +conditions which had power and made mark upon the settlement of New +England, we are apt to affirm with earnest sentiment that religion was the +one force, the one aim, the one thought, of the lives of our forbears. It +was indeed an ever present thought and influence in their lives; but they +possessed another trait which is as evident in their records as their +piety, and which adds an element of human interest to their story which +their stern Puritanism never could have done; with them their +neighborliness, was as ever present and as sincere as their godliness. +Hence the establishment of an hostelry,--an ordinary it was usually +called,--for the entertainment of travellers and for the mutual comfort of +the settlers, was scarcely second to their providing a gathering-place for +the church. + +The General Court of Massachusetts at an early date took decisive measures +with regard to houses of common entertainment. No one was permitted to +keep without license "a common victuallyng house," under a penalty of +twenty shillings a week. Soon the power of granting licenses was +transferred to the County Courts, as the constant increase in the number +of ordinaries made too constant detailed work for so important a body as +the General Court. + +Consideration for the welfare of travellers, and a desire to regulate the +sale of intoxicating liquors, seemed to the magistrates important enough +reasons not only to counsel but to enforce the opening of some kind of a +public house in each community, and in 1656 the General Court of +Massachusetts made towns liable to a fine for not sustaining an ordinary. +Towns were fined and admonished for not conforming to this law; Concord, +Massachusetts, was one of the number. The Colonial Records of Connecticut, +in 1644, ordered "one sufficient inhabitant" in each town to keep an +ordinary, since "strangers were straitened" for want of entertainment. A +frequent and natural choice of location for establishing an ordinary was +at a ferry. Tristram Coffyn kept both ferry and ordinary at Newbury, +Massachusetts; there was an ordinary at Beverly Ferry, known until 1819 as +the "Old Ferry Tavern." + +Great inducements were offered to persons to keep an ordinary; sometimes +land was granted them, or pasturage for their cattle, or exemption from +church rates and school taxes. In 1682, Hugh March, of Newbury, +Massachusetts, petitioned for a renewal of his license to keep an +ordinary, saying thus: "The town of Newbury, some years since, were +destitute of an ordinary, and could not persuade any person to keep it. +For want of an ordinary they were twice fined by the county, and would +have been a third time had I not undertaken it." In 1668 the town had +persuaded one Captain White to "undertake an ordinary" on high moral +grounds; and it is painful to record that, though he did so unwillingly, +he found the occupation so profitable that he finally got into disgrace +through it. + + +[Illustration: Ordinary at Duxbury, Massachusetts.] + + +The early taverns were not opened wholly for the convenience of +travellers; they were for the comfort of the townspeople, for the +interchange of news and opinions, the sale of solacing liquors, and the +incidental sociability; in fact, the importance of the tavern to its local +neighbors was far greater than to travellers. There were many restrictions +upon the entertainment of unknown strangers. The landlord had to give the +name of all such strangers to the selectmen, who could, if they deemed +them detrimental or likely to become a charge upon the community, warn +them out of the town. The old town records are full of such warnings, some +of them most amusing. Nor could the landlord "knowingly harbor in house, +barn, or stable, any rogues, vagabonds, thieves, sturdy beggars, +masterless men or women." Our ancestors were kindly neighbors to godly +folk, but sternly intolerant of wrong-doers, or even of those suspected of +wrong. + +We cannot wonder that citizens did not seek to become ordinary-keepers +when we learn how they were hampered, or how the magistrates tried to +hamper them. They were at one time not to be permitted to sell "sack or +strong waters," nor have any dancing or singing within their walls. No +games could be played in their precincts. They were even hindered in the +selling of cakes and buns. Innholders and victuallers were prohibited the +brewing of beer, but that soon had to be revoked. The price and quality of +beer was constantly being established by law and as constantly changed. In +1634 the Court set the price of a single meal at sixpence, and not above a +penny for an ale-quart of beer out of meal time. Then, a little later, the +landlords were forbidden to change more than twelve pence for a meal; and +they were ordered to furnish meals to "pore people," as simply as called +for. + +One Richard Cluffe, in an utterance which sounds like the voice of +Shakespeare's clown, exclaimed at a mean meal served to him, "What! shall +I pay twelve pence for the fragments which the grand jury roages have +left?" The majesty of the law could not thus be attacked in Massachusetts +in the year 1640. Three pounds six shillings and eight pence did Cluffe +pay for his rash and angry words--truly a costly dinner. + +The ordinary called The Anchor, at Lynn, was kept by one Joseph Armitage. +Being a halfway house between Boston and Salem, the magistrates made it +their stopping-place on their various trips from court to court. The +accounts of this ordinary are still preserved. Governor Endicott's bills +for "vitals, beare, and logen," for "bear and caeks," were paid by the +Auditor. Governor Bradstreet had "beare and wyne." The succeeding landlord +of this ordinary was described by John Dunton in 1686 as a hearty, +talkative, fine old gentleman, one of Oliver Cromwell's soldiers. Dunton +had at The Anchor a good fowl and a bottle of sack, instead of the beer +and cakes of the abstemious Puritan governor. + +The "Sports of the Innyard" were sternly frowned upon by Puritan +magistrates. Among the games which were named as forbidden in the +ordinaries were "carding," dicing, tally, bowls, billiards, slidegroat, +shuffle-board, quoits, loggets, ninepins. After a time shuffle-board and +bowls were tolerated in private houses, though not deemed reputable at the +ordinary. + +The Puritan ordinary saw some wedding scenes, and apparently some +tentatively gay scenes, since in 1631 the magistrates of Massachusetts +Bay, in "consequence of some miscarriages at weddings" which had been +held in an ordinary, passed a law prohibiting dancing on such occasions in +public houses. + +Lord Ley lodged at the Boston ordinary in 1637; and when Governor Winthrop +urged him to come to his home from the inn, his lordship declined, saying +that the house where he was staying was so well ordered that he could be +as private there as elsewhere. + +In the towns a night-watch was soon instituted, and the instructions given +by the Boston magistrates smack strongly of Dogberry's famous charge. +Their number each night was eight; they were "to walk two by two together, +a youth joined to an older and more sober person." Lights had to be +out,--or hidden,--especially in the ordinaries. "If they see lights, to +inquire if there be warrantable cause; and if they hear any noise or +disorder, wisely to demand the reason; if they are dancing and singing +vainly, to admonish them to cease; if they do not discontinue after +moderate admonition, then the constable to take their names and acquaint +the authorities therewith. If they find young men and maidens, not of +known fidelity, walking after ten o'clock, modestly to demand the cause, +and if they appear ill-minded, to watch them narrowly, command them to go +to their lodgings, and if they refuse then to secure them till morning." +In 1663 Josselyn found that young sparks walking with their sweet-hearts, +or "Marmalet-Madams" as he called them, had to go home at nine o'clock. + +Constant and strenuous efforts were made from earliest days to prevent +drunkenness and all tavern disorders. As early as 1637 complaints had been +made that "much drunkenness, waste of the good creatures of God, mispense +of time, and other disorders" had taken place at the ordinaries. Frequent +laws were made about selling liquor to the "devilish bloudy salvages," and +many were the arrests and fines and punishments therefor. + + +[Illustration: Taproom Furnishings of an Old Ordinary.] + + +Landlords were forbidden by the Court in 1645 "to suffer anyone to be +drunk or drink excessively, or continue tippling above the space of half +an hour in any of their said houses under penalty of 5_s._ for every such +offence suffered; and every person found drunk in the said houses or +elsewhere shall forfeit 10_s._; and for every excessive drinking he shall +forfeit 3_s._ 4_d._; for sitting idle and continuing drinking above half +an hour, 2_s._ 6_d._; and it is declared to be excessive drinking of wine +when above half a pint of wine is allowed at one time to one person to +drink: provided that it shall be lawful for any strangers, or lodgers, or +any person or persons, in an orderly way to continue in such houses of +common entertainment during meal times or upon lawful business, what time +their occasions shall require." + +Drunkards were severely punished by being thrust into the bilboes, set in +the stocks, and whipped. In 1632 one "James Woodward shalbe sett in the +bilbowes for being drunke at New-Towne." Robert Wright was fined twenty +shillings and ordered to sit in the stocks an hour for being "twice +distempered in drink." On September 3, 1633, in Boston:-- + + "Robert Coles was fyned ten shillings and enjoynd to stand with a + white sheet of paper on his back, whereon Drunkard shalbe written in + great lres, and to stand therewith soe long as the Court find meet, + for abusing himself shamefully with drinke." + +This did not reform Robert Coles, for a year later his badge of disgrace +was made permanent:-- + + "Robert Coles for drunkenness by him committed at Rocksbury shalbe + disfranchizd, weare about his neck, and so to hang upon his outwd + garment a D. made of redd cloth & sett upon white: to continyu this + for a yeare, & not to have it off any time hee comes among company, + Vnder the penalty of xl _s._ for the first offence, and 5 L for the + second, and afterward to be punished by the Court as they think meet: + also _hee is to wear the D outwards_." + +It might be inferred from the clause I have italicized that the Puritan +drunkard was not without guile, and that some had worn the scarlet letter +and hidden it from public view as skilfully as the moral brand is often +hidden from public knowledge to-day. Women, also, were punished severely +for "intemperate drinking from one ordinary to another," but such examples +were rare. + +Lists of names of common drunkards were given to landlords in some towns +(among them New Castle, New Hampshire), and landlords were warned not to +sell liquor to them. Licenses were removed and fines imposed on those who +did not heed the warning. + +The tithing-man, that amusing but most bumptious public functionary of +colonial times, was at first the official appointed to spy specially upon +the ordinaries. He inspected these houses, made complaint of any disorders +he discovered, and gave in to the constable the names of idle drinkers and +gamers. He warned the keepers of public houses to sell no more liquor to +any whom he fancied had been tippling too freely. John Josselyn, an +English visitor in Boston in 1663, complained bitterly thus:-- + + "At houses of entertainment into which a stranger went, he was + presently followed by one appointed to that office, who would thrust + himself into the company uninvited, and if he called for more drink + than the officer thought in his judgement he could soberly bear away, + he would presently countermand it, and appoint the proportion, beyond + which he could not get one drop." + + +[Illustration: Old Tavern at Easton, Massachusetts.] + + +Now that certainly was trying. Nor could it have been agreeable to +would-be cheerful frequenters of Greyhound Tavern, in Roxbury, to have +godly Parson Danforth, when he saw from his study windows any neighbors or +strangers lingering within the tavern doors, come sallying forth from his +house across the way, and walk sternly into their company, and, as he +said, "chide them away." Patient must have been the Greyhound's landlord +to have stood such pious meddling and hindrance to trade. + +Governor Winthrop gives an account of the exploits of a Boston constable +in 1644, which shows the restraint held over a lodger in a Boston ordinary +at that date. + + "There fell out a troublesome business in Boston. An English sailor + happened to be drunk and was carried to his lodging; and the + Constable (a Godly man and much zealous against such disorders) + hearing of it, found him out, being upon his bed asleep; so he awaked + him, and led him to the stocks, no magistrate being at home. He being + left in the stocks, some one of La Tours French gentlemen visitors in + Boston lifted up the stocks and let him out. The Constable hearing of + it, went to the Frenchman (being then gone and quiet) and would needs + carry _him_ to the stocks. The Frenchman offered to yield himself to + go to prison but the Constable, not understanding his language, + pressed him to go to the stocks. The Frenchman resisted and drew his + sword. With that company came in and disarmed him, and carried him by + force to the stocks, but soon after the Constable took him out and + carried him to prison." + +Winthrop gravely enumerates the faults of the constable, such as his +"transgressing the bounds of his office, the fruits of ignorant and +misguided zeal, not putting a hook on the stocks," etc., and the matter +bade fair to assume some gravity, since it was deemed in France "most +ignominious to be laid in the stocks." Yet Winthrop took care not to +rebuke the Constable in public lest he "discourage and discountenance an +honest officer." + +It has been said that the homely injunction "to mind your own business" +was the most difficult lesson New Englanders ever had to learn, and that +even now it has been acquired and practised in the cities only, not in the +country. + +Administration of government in those days certainly consisted much of +meddlesome interference in the private affairs of daily life. Experience +has since taught that the free-will of the citizen is the best regulator +in such matters. + +It is one of the curiosities of old-time legislation that the use of +tobacco was in earliest colonial days plainly regarded by the magistrates +and elders as far more sinful, degrading, and harmful than indulgence in +intoxicating liquors. Both the use and the planting of it were forbidden, +the latter being permitted in small quantities "for meere necessitie, for +phisick, for preservaceon of the health, and that the same be taken +privately by auncient men." Landlords were ordered not to "suffer any +tobacco to be taken into their houses" on penalty of a fine to the +"victualler," and another to "the party that takes it." The "Creature +called Tobacko" seemed to have an immortal life. The laws were constantly +altered and were enforced, still tobacco was grown and was smoked. Soon it +was forbidden to "take tobacco in any wine or common victual house, except +in a private room there, so as the master of said house nor any guest +there shall take offense thereat; which, if any do, the said person shall +forbear upon pain of two shillings sixpence for every such offense." No +one could take tobacco "publicquely" nor in his own house or anywhere else +before strangers. Two men were forbidden to smoke together. Windsor +required a physician's certificate ere it could be used. No one could +smoke within two miles of the meeting-house on the Sabbath day. There were +wicked backsliders who were caught smoking around the corner of the +meeting-house, and others on the street, and they were fined, and set in +the stocks, and in cages. Until within a few years there were New England +towns where tobacco-smoking was prohibited on the streets, and innocent +cigar-loving travellers were astounded at being requested to cease +smoking. Mr. Drake wrote in 1886 that he knew men, then living, who had +had to plead guilty or not guilty in a Boston police court for smoking in +the streets of Boston. In Connecticut in early days a great indulgence was +permitted to travellers--a man could smoke once during a journey of ten +miles. + +The relationship of tavern and meeting-house in New England did not end +with their simultaneous establishment; they continued the most friendly +neighbors. And so long as a public house was commonly known as an +ordinary, those who were high in church counsels looked sharply to the +control of these houses of sojourn. The minister and tithing-man were +aided in their spying and their chiding by deacons, elders, and church +members. + +Usually the ordinary and the meeting-house were close companions. Licenses +to keep houses of entertainment were granted with the condition that the +tavern must be near the meeting-house--a keen contrast to our present laws +prohibiting the sale of liquor within a certain distance of any church. A +Boston ordinary-keeper, in 1651, was granted permission to keep a house of +common entertainment "provided hee keepe it neare the new meeting-house." + + +[Illustration: Leather Black-jack.] + + +Those who know of the old-time meeting-house can fully comprehend the +desire of the colonists to have a tavern near at hand, especially during +the winter services. Through autumn rains, and winter frosts and snows, +and fierce northwesters, the poorly-built meeting-house stood unheated, +growing more damp, more icy, more deadly, with each succeeding week. Women +cowered, shivering, half-frozen, over the feeble heat of a metal +foot-stove as the long sermon dragged on and the few coals became ashes. +Men stamped their feet and swung their arms in the vain attempt to warm +the blood. Gladly and eagerly did all troop from the gloomy meeting-house +to the cheerful tavern to thaw out before the afternoon service, and to +warm up before the ride or walk home in the late afternoon. It was a +scandal in many a town that godly church-members partook too freely of +tavern cheer at the nooning; the only wonder is that the entire +congregation did not succumb in a body to the potent flip and toddy of the +tavern-keeper. + +In midsummer the hot sun beat down on the meeting-house roof, and the +burning rays poured in the unshaded windows. The taproom of the tavern and +the green trees in its dooryard offered a pleasant shade to tired +church-goers, and its well-sweep afforded a grateful drink to those who +turned not to the taproom. + +There are ever backsliders in all church communities; many walked into the +ordinary door instead of up the church "alley." The chimney seat of the +inn was more comfortable than the narrow seat of the "pue." The General +Court of Massachusetts passed a law requiring all innkeepers within a mile +of any meeting-house, to clear their houses "during the hours of the +exercise." "Thus," Mr. Field says wittily, "the townsmen were frozen out +of the tavern to be frozen in the meeting-house." + +Our ancestors had no reverence for a church save as a literal +meeting-house, and it was not unusual to transform the house of God into a +tavern. The Great House at Charlestown, Massachusetts, the official +residence of Governor Winthrop, became a meeting-house in 1633, and then a +tavern, the Three Cranes, kept by Robert Leary and his descendants for +many years. It was destroyed in June, 1775, in the burning of the town. In +this Great House, destined to become a tavern, lived Governor Winthrop +when he announced his famous discountenance of health-drinking at the +tables and in public places. This first of all temperance pledges in New +England is recorded in his Diary in his own language, which was as +temperate as his intent:-- + + "The Governor, upon consideration of the inconveniences which had + grown in England by drinking one to another, restrained it at his own + table, and wished others to do the like; so it grew, little by little, + into disuse." + + +[Illustration] + + +Frequently religious services were held in the spacious rooms of the +tavern, until a meeting-house was built; as in the town of Fitchburg, +Massachusetts, and in Providence, Rhode Island, where Roger Williams +preached. Many of the Puritan ordinaries were thus used. + +Ecclesiastical affairs were managed at the ordinary, among them that most +ticklish and difficult of all adjustments and allotments, namely, seating +the meeting. The "Elders, Deacons, and Selectmen" of Cambridge were made a +"constant and settled power for regulating the seating of persons in the +meeting-house." They were ordered to meet at the ordinary, and such orders +and appointments as this were made:-- + + "Brother Richard Jackson's wife to sit where Sister Kempster was wont + to sit. Ester Sparhawke to sit in the place where Mrs. Upham is + removed from. Mr. Day to sit the second seat from the table. Ensign + Samuel Greene to sit at the Table. Goody Gates to sit at the end of + the Deacon's seat. Goody Wines to sit in the Gallery." + +It needed much consultation and thought to "seat the meeting." We can +imagine the deacons loosening their tongues over the tavern flip and +punch, and arguing confidentially over the standing, the wealth, and +temper of the various parties to be seated. + +There were in Boston at different times several ordinaries and taverns +known as the King's Arms. One of the earliest ones stood at the head of +Dock Square. In 1651 one Hugh Gunnison, vintner, and his wife, sold this +house, known by the sign of the King's Arms, with its furniture and +appurtenances, for the sum of L600 sterling, a goodly sum for the day. An +inventory of the "p'ticular goods and household stuffe" still exists, and +is of much interest not only as indicating the furnishings of a house of +that character in that colony at that date, but showing also the naming of +the chambers, as in the English inns of Shakespeare's day. + + "In the chamber called the Exchange one halfe bedstead with blew + pillows, one livery Cupbord coloured blue, one long table, benches, + two formes and one carved chaire. + + "In the Kitchen three formes dressers shelves. + + "In the Larder one square Table banisters dressers & shelves round. + + "In the Hall, three Small Roomes with tables and benches in them, one + table about six foote long in the Hall and one bench. + + "In the low parlor one bedstead one table and benches two formes, one + small frame of a form and shelves, one Closet with shelves. + + "In the room Vnder the closet one child's bedsted. + + "In the Chamber called London, one bedsted two benches. + + "In the Chamber over London one bedsted one crosse table one forme one + bench. + + "In the Closet next the Exchange, shelves. + + "In the barr by the hall, three shelves, the frame of a low stoole. + + "In the vpper p'lor one bedsted two chaires one table one forme bench + and shelves. + + "In the Nursery one Crosse Table with shelvs. + + "In the Court Chamber one Long table three formes one livery cupbord, + & benches. + + "In the closet within the Court chamber one bedsted and shelvs. + + "In the Starr chamber one long table, one bedsted, one livery Cupbord + one chaire three formes with benches. + + "In the Garret over the Court chamber one bedsted one table two + formes. + + "In the garret over the closet in the Court chamber one bedsted one + smale forme. + + "In the foure garrett chambers over the Starr chamber three bedsteds + four tables with benches. + + "In the brewhouse one Cop', twoe fatts, one vnder back, one vpper + back, one kneading trough one dresser one brake. + + "In the stable one Racke & manger. + + "In the yarde one pumpe, pipes to convey the water to the brew house, + fyve hogg styes, one house of office. + + "The signes of the Kinges Armes and signe posts." + +This was certainly a large house and amply furnished. It contained +thirteen bedsteads and a vast number of tables, forms, benches, shelves, +and cupboards. + +The rooms of the Blue Anchor, another Boston ordinary, also bore names: +the Rose and Sun Low room, the Cross Keys, the Green Dragon, the Anchor +and Castle. + +We can form, from the items of this inventory, a very good and detailed +picture of the interior of a Boston ordinary at that date. But it must not +be imagined that there were at the time of this sale many colonial +ordinaries as amply furnished as the King's Arms. The accommodations in +the public houses of small towns, indeed perhaps everywhere in New England +save in Boston and Salem, were very primitive. The ordinary was doubtless +as well furnished as the private homes of its neighbors, and that was very +simple of fashion, while the fare was scant of variety. + + +[Illustration: Taproom of Wayside Inn.] + + +We know that even the early ordinaries had sign-boards. + +The ordinary-keeper had his license granted with the proviso that "there +be sett up some inoffensive sign obvious for direction to +strangers"--this in Salem in 1645. In 1655 the Rhode Island courts ordered +that all persons appointed to keep an ordinary should "cause to be sett +out a convenient Signe at ye most perspicuous place of ye said house, +thereby to give notice to strangers yt it is a house of public +entertainment, and this to be done with all convenient speed." + +Women kept ordinaries and taverns from early days. Widows abounded, for +the life of the male colonists was hard, exposure was great, and many died +in middle age. War also had many victims. Tavern-keeping was the resort of +widows of small means then, just as the "taking of boarders" is to-day. +Women were skilled in business affairs and competent; many licenses were +granted to them to keep victualling-houses, to draw wine, and make and +sell beer. In 1684 the wife of one Nicholas Howard was licensed "to +entertain Lodgers in the absence of her husband"; while other women were +permitted to sell food and drink but could not entertain lodgers because +their husbands were absent from home, thus drawing nice distinctions. A +Salem dame in 1645 could keep an ordinary if she provided a "godly man" to +manage her business. Some women became renowned as good innkeepers, and +they were everywhere encouraged in the calling. + +The colonists did not have to complain long, nor to pine long for lack of +ordinaries. In 1675 Cotton Mather said every other house in Boston was an +ale-house. + +One of the first serious protests against the increase of ordinaries and +ale-houses in the colonies, and appreciation of their pernicious effects, +came from Nathaniel Saltonstall of Haverhill, Massachusetts. He was a +magistrate, and an officer in the militia. He was appointed one of the +judges in the Salem witchcraft trials; but in this latter capacity he +refused to serve, which may be taken as a proof of his advanced thought. +He was said to be "a man of superior powers of mind and rare talents." In +December, 1696, he sent a letter to the Salem Court which ran thus:-- + + "MUCH HON'D GENTLEMEN: + + "I allways thought it great prudence and Christianity in our former + leaders and rulers, by their laws to state the number of publique + houses in towns and for regulation of such houses, as were of + necessity, thereby to prevent all sorts, almost, of wickednesses which + daily grow in upon us like a flood. But alas! I see not but that now + the case is over, and such (as to some places I may term them) + pest-houses and places of enticement (tho not so intended by the + Justices) the sin are multiplied. It is multiplied too openly, that + the cause of it may be, the price of retailers' fees, etc. I pray what + need of six retailers in Salisbury, and of more than one in Haverhill, + and some other towns where the people, when taxes and rates for the + country and ministers are collecting, with open mouths complain of + povertie and being hardly dealt with, and yet I am fully informed, can + spend much time, and spend their estates at such blind holes, as are + clandestinely and unjustly petitioned for; and more threaten to get + licenses, chiefly by repairing to a remote court, where they are not + known or suspected, but pass for current, and thereby the towns are + abused, and the youth get evil habits; and men sent out on country + service at such places waste much of their time, yet expect pay for + it, in most pernicious loytering and what, and sometimes by foolish if + not pot-valiant firing and shooting off guns, not for the destruction + of enemies, but to the wonderful disturbance and affrightment of the + inhabitants, which is not the service a scout is allowed and + maintained for. + + "Please to see what good is done by giving a license to Robert + Hastings, in such a by-place about three miles from the publique house + in town. The man himself I am sure has no cause, nor do I believe the + town and travellers if they are sober men, will ever give the court + thanks for the first grant to him, or the further renewal thereof. + + "But now the bravado is made, what is done is not enough; we must have + a third tippling house at Peter Patey's about midway between the other + two, which they boast as cock-sure of, and have it is thought laid in, + for this very end, an unaccountable store of cyder, rum, molasses, and + what not. It is well if this stock be not now spent on, in procuring + subscriptions for to obtain the villain's license, which I fear, + knowing the man, we may be bold to say, wickedness will be practiced + and without control.... I have done my part in court, as to what I + heard of, to prevent such confiding licenses to persons unknown.... + + "I am now God's prisoner and cant come abroad, and have waited long to + speak of those, and others, but as yet cant meet with an opportunity. + You have nothing here of personal animosity of mine against any man, + but zeal and faithfulness to my country and town, and to the young and + rising generation that they be not too much at liberty to live and do + as they list. Accept of the good intentions of, gentlemen, your humble + servant, + + "N. SALTONSTALL." + +There is a sturdy ring about this letter, a freedom from cant and +conventional religious expressions, that serve to paint clearly the +character of the writer, and show us by one of those side-glimpses, which, +as Ruskin says, often afford more light than a full stare, the sort of man +that built up New England in the beginning, on its solid and noble +foundations. + + +[Illustration: Buckman Tavern, Lexington, Massachusetts, 1690.] + + +In spite of the forebodings of Saltonstall and other Christian gentlemen, +the flood of wickedness and disorder which he predicted was slow in its +approach. The orderly ways and close restrictions and surveillance of the +Puritan ordinary lasted until long after public houses were called +taverns. + +In the latter quarter of the seventeenth century and the first of the +eighteenth a nearly continual diary was kept by a resident of Boston, +Judge Samuel Sewall, who might be called Boston's first citizen. He was +rich, he was good, he was intelligent, and some portions of his diary are +of great value for the light they throw on contemporary customs and +events. He has been called a Puritan Pepys; but in one respect he is +markedly unlike Pepys, who gave us ample record of London taverns, and of +tavern life in his day. It is doubtful that Sewall knew much about tavern +life in Boston; for his private life was a great contrast to that of our +gay Pepys. Judge Sewall was a home-body, tenderly careful of his +children--he had fourteen; a "loving servant" to his wives--he had three; +especially devoted to his mother-in-law--he had but one, the richest woman +in Boston; kind to his neighbors, poor as well as rich; attentive to his +friends in sickness, and thoughtful of them in death; zealous in religious +duties both in the church and the family; public-spirited and upright in +his service to his town and state, from his high office as judge, down to +fulfilling petty duties such as serving on the watch. He had little time +for tavern life, and little inclination to it; and he condemned men who +"kept ordinaries and sold rum." He was a shining example of the +"New-English men," whose fast-thinning ranks he so sadly deplored, and +whose virtues he extolled. He occasionally refers in his diary to +ordinaries. Sometimes he soberly drank healths and grace-cups within +Boston and Cambridge tavern walls with the honored Deputies, at the +installation of a new Governor, on the King's Coronation Day, or a Royal +Birthday. Sometimes we read of his pleasuring trips with his wife to the +Greyhound Tavern in Roxbury, his gala dinner of boiled pork and roast +fowls, and his riding home at curfew in "brave moonshine." That clear June +moonlight shining down through the centuries does not display to us any +very gay figures, any very jolly riders. We can see the Judge in rich but +sad-colored attire, with his wife on a pillion behind him, soberly jogging +home, doubtless singing psalms as they went through the short stretches of +Roxbury woods; for he sang psalms everywhere apparently, when he was +permitted to do so. This is as might be expected of a man who on another +pleasure jaunt with his wife left her eating cherries in the orchard, +while he, like any other Puritan, "sweetened his mouth with a bit of +Calvin," that is, he sat indoors and read _Calvin on Psalms_. + + +[Illustration: Hound-handle Tavern Pitcher.] + + +At this time--in the year 1714--Boston had a population approaching ten +thousand. It had thirty-four ordinary- or inn-holders, of whom twelve were +women; four common victuallers, of whom one was a woman; forty-one +retailers of liquor, of whom seventeen were women, and a few cider +sellers. There were, therefore, ample places in which liquor could be +bought; but Sewall's entire diary gives proof of the orderliness of life +in Boston. There are not half a dozen entries which give any records or +show any evidence of tavern disorders. In 1708 an inquiry was made by the +magistrates "as to debaucheries at the Exchange," and as a result one +young man was fined five shillings for cursing, ten shillings for throwing +a beer-pot and scale-box at the maid, and twenty shillings for lying--that +was all. The longest entry is on the Queen's birthday in 1714:-- + + "My neighbor Colson knocks at my door about nine P.M., or past, to + tell of disorders at the ordinary at the South End, kept by Mr. + Wallace. He desired me that I would accompany Mr. Bromfield and + Constable Howell hither. It was 35 minutes past nine before Mr. + Bromfield came, then we went, took AEneas Salter with us. Found much + company. They refused to go away. Said was there to drink the Queen's + health and had many other healths to drink. Called for more drink and + drank to me: I took notice of the affront, to them. Said they must and + would stay upon that solemn occasion. Mr. Netmaker drank the Queen's + health to me. I told him I drank none; on that he ceased. Mr. Brinley + put on his hat to affront me. I made him take it off. I threatened to + send some of them to prison. They said they could but pay their fine + and doing that might stay. I told them if they had not a care they + would be guilty of a riot. Mr. Bromfield spake of raising a number of + men to quell them, and was in some heat ready to run into the street. + But I did not like that. Not having pen and ink I went to take their + names with my pencil and not knowing how to spell their names they + themselves of their own accord writ them. At last I addressed myself + to Mr. Banister. I told him he had been longest an inhabitant and + freeholder and I expected he would set a good example by departing + thence. Upon this he invited them to his own house, and away they + went. And we after them went away. I went directly home and found it + 25 minutes past ten at night when I entered my own house." + +No greater tribute to orderly Boston could be given than this record of +rare disturbance. Even in that day, half after nine was not a late hour, +and it took the Judge but an hour to walk from his house and back and +disperse these soberly rioting young men, whom we can picture, solemnly +writing down their own names with the Judge's pencil for him to bring them +up in the morning. The next day they were each fined five shillings. Some +paid, some appealed and gave bonds. Mr. Netmaker was Secretary to the +Commander of her Majesty's forces, and he had to pay five shillings for +cursing. They also attempted to make him give bonds to keep the peace, but +at this he and his friends lost patience and refused. Judges Sewall and +Bromfield promptly sent him to jail. It is not surprising to know that +the Governor released him, though under strenuous protest from the two +magistrates, who had, they contended, simply executed the laws. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Hayden Tavern, Essex, Connecticut.] + + +Judge Sewall records one scene, a typically Puritanical one, and worthy of +a Puritan tithing-man. It took place at the Castle Inn where he went with +some other good Bostonians to shut off a "vain show." + + "Treat with Brother Wing (the landlord) about his Setting a Room in + his House for a Man to shew Tricks in. He saith, seeing 'tis offensive + he will remedy it. It seems the Room is fitted with Seats. I read what + Dr. Ames saith of Callings, and spake as I could from this Principle, + that the Man's Practice was unlawfull, and therefore Capt. Wing could + not lawfully give him an accommodation for it. Sung the 90 Ps from the + 12 v to the end. Broke up." + +There is a suggestion of sober farce in this picture of those pious +gentlemen reading and expounding a sermon, whipping out their psalm books, +and singing a psalm to poor hospitable Landlord Wing in the parlor or +taproom of his own house. + +Naturally the Puritan planters, and all "true New-English men" like +Sewall, did not care to have the ordinaries of their quiet towns made into +places of gay resort, of what they called "the shewing of vain shews." +They deemed those hostelries places of hospitable convenience, not of +lively entertainment. A contemporary poet, Quarles, thus compares human +life to a stay at an inn:-- + + "Our life is nothing but a winter's day, + Some only break their fast and so away; + Others stay dinner and depart full fed; + The deepest age but sups and goes to bed. + He's most in debt who lingers out the day, + Who dies betimes, has less and less to pay." + +This somewhat melancholy view, both of life and of a public house, +lingered long in the colonies, for nearly a century; we might say, with +the life of the ordinary. When taverns came, their guests thought very +little of dying, and paid very much attention to living. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +OLD-TIME TAVERNS + + +By the close of the seventeenth century the word ordinary was passing into +disuse in America; public houses had multiplied vastly and had become +taverns, though a few old-fashioned folk--in letters, and doubtless in +conversation--still called them ordinaries--Judge Sewall was one. The word +inn, universal in English speech, was little heard here, and tavern was +universally adopted. Though to-day somewhat shadowed by a formless +reputation of being frequently applied to hostelries of vulgar resort and +coarse fare and ways, the word tavern is nevertheless a good one, resonant +of sound and accurate of application, since to this present time in the +commonwealth of Massachusetts and in other states such large and sumptuous +caravansaries as the Touraine and the Somerset Hotel of Boston are in the +eye and tongue of the law simply taverns, and their proprietors +inn-holders or tavern-keepers. + +In the Middle colonies ordinaries and inns were just as quickly opened, +just as important, just as frequent, as in New England; but in the +Southern colonies, the modes of settlement were so different, there were +so few towns and villages, that hospitality to the traveller was shown at +each plantation, every man's home was an inn; every planter was a +landlord. + +In general no charge was made for the entertainment of the chance visitor +whose stay was deemed a pleasure in the secluded life of the Virginia +tobacco planter. Indeed, unless a distinct contract had been made in +advance and terms stated, the host could not demand pay from a guest, no +matter how long the visitor remained. Rates of prices were set for the +first Virginian ordinaries; previous to 1639 six pounds of tobacco were +paid for a dinner, or about eighteen pence in coin; but as food soon grew +more abundant, the price was reduced to twelve pence, and it was enjoined +that the food must be wholesome and plentiful. Then the charges grew +exorbitant,--twenty pounds of tobacco for a meal for a master, fifteen for +a servant. Throughout the country the prices wavered up and down, but were +never low. There were apparently two causes for this: the fact that +ordinary-keepers captured so few guests, and also that the tobacco leaf +varied and depreciated in value. + +By 1668 so many small tippling-houses and petty ordinaries existed in the +colony of Virginia that laws were passed restricting the number in each +county to one at the court-house, and possibly one at a wharf or ferry. +Then the magistrates tried to limit the drinks sold in these houses to +beer and cider; and private individuals were warned not to sell "any sort +of drink or liquor whatsoever, by retail under any color, pretence, +delusion, or subtle evasion whatsoever." Those conditions did not last +long. Soon the Virginia ordinaries had plentiful domestic and imported +liquors, and at very low prices. Mr. Bruce says that "Madeira, Canary, +Malaga, and Fayal wines were probably much more abundant in the Colony +than in England at this time, and were drunk by classes which in the +mother country were content with strong and small-beer." + +But the ordinaries did scant business as lodging-places. Governor Harvey +complained that he could with as much justice be called the host as the +Governor of Virginia, from the great number of persons entertained by him. +This condition of affairs continued outside the cities till well into this +century. In the large towns, however, comfortable taverns were everywhere +established; and they were, as in the Northern colonies, the gathering +places of many serious and many frivolous assemblages. The best of our +American taverns were found in Southern cities; Baltimore had the Fountain +Inn built around a courtyard like an old English inn, and furnished very +handsomely. + +Few of these ancient taverns still remain. The old Indian Queen Tavern is +still standing at Bladensburg, Maryland. Its picture is given opposite +page 33. This view is from a painting by Mr. Edward Lamson Henry. It shows +also an old stage-wagon such as was used in the eighteenth century, +starting out from the tavern door. Mr. Henry has made a most exhaustive +study of old-time modes of travel, as well as a fine collection of old +vehicles, harnesses, costumes, etc. The copies of his paintings, which I +am honored by using in this book, are in every detail authoritative and +invaluable records of the olden time. + + +[Illustration: Indian Queen Tavern, Bladensburg, Maryland.] + + +With the establishment of turnpikes, road houses multiplied, and for a +time prospered. But their day was short; a typical Maryland road house is +shown on page 34, far gone in a decrepit and ugly old age. + +The history of Pennsylvania shows that its taverns were great in number +and good in quality, especially soon after the Revolution. This would be +the natural accompaniment of the excellent roads throughout the state. +Philadelphia had an extraordinary number of public houses, and many were +needed; for the city had a vast number of visitors, and a great current of +immigration poured into that port. In the chapter on Signs and Symbols, +many names and descriptions are given of old Philadelphia taverns. + +The first Dutch directors-general of New Netherland entertained infrequent +travellers and traders at their own homes, and were probably very glad to +have these visitors. But trade was rapidly increasing, and +Director-General Kieft, "in order to accommodate the English, from whom he +suffered great annoyance, built a fine inn of stone." The chronicler De +Vries had often dined in Kieft's house, and he says dryly of the building +of this inn, "It happened well for the travellers." + +The Stadt Harberg, or City Tavern, was built in where now stand the +warehouses, 71 and 73 Pearl Street. It was ordained that a well and +brew-house might be erected at the rear of the inn; right was given to +retail the East India Company's wine and brandy; and some dull records +exist of the use of the building as an inn. It had a career afterward of +years of use and honor as the Stadt Huys, or City Hall; I have told its +story at length in a paper in the _Half-Moon Series_ on Historic New York. + + +[Illustration: Old Maryland Road House.] + + +The building was certainly not needed as a tavern, for in 1648 one-fourth +of the buildings in New Amsterdam had been turned into tap-houses for the +sale of beer, brandy, and tobacco. Governor Stuyvesant placed some +restraint on these tapsters; they had to receive unanimous consent of the +Council to set up the business; they could not sell to Indians. +"Unreasonable night-tippling," that is, drinking after the curfew bell at +nine o'clock, and "intemperate drinking on the Sabbath," that is, drinking +by any one not a boarder before three o'clock on the Sabbath (when church +services were ended), were heavily fined. Untimely "sitting of clubs" was +also prohibited. These laws were evaded with as much ease as the Raines +Law provisions of later years in the same neighborhood. + +In 1664 the red cross of St. George floated over the city; the English +were in power; the city of New Amsterdam was now New York. The same tavern +laws as under the Dutch obtained, however, till 1748, and under the +English, taverns multiplied as fast as under Dutch rule. They had good old +English names on their sign-boards: the Thistle and Crown, the Rose and +Thistle, the Duke of Cumberland, the Bunch of Grapes, St. George and the +Dragon, Dog's Head in the Porridge Pot, the Fighting Cocks, the White +Lion, the King's Head. + +On the Boreel Building on Broadway is a bronze commemorative tablet, +placed there in 1890 by the Holland Society. + +The site of this building has indeed a history of note. In 1754 Edward +Willet opened there a tavern under the sign of the Province Arms; and many +a distinguished traveller was destined to be entertained for many a year +at this Province Arms and its successors. It had been the home residence +of the De Lanceys, built about 1700 by the father of Lieutenant-Governor +James De Lancey, and was deemed a noble mansion. The Province Arms began +its career with two very brilliant public dinners: one to the new English +Governor, Sir Charles Hardy; the other upon the laying of the corner-stone +of King's College. A grand function this was, and the Province Arms had +full share of honor. All the guests, from Governor to students, assembled +at the tavern, and proceeded to the college grounds; they laid the stone +and returned to Landlord Willet's, where, says the chronicle, "the usual +loyal healths were drunk, and Prosperity to the College; and the whole was +conducted with the utmost Decency and Propriety." + +In 1763 the Province Arms had a new landlord, George Burns, late of the +King's Head in the Whitehall, and ere that of the Cart and Horse. His +advertisements show his pretensions to good housekeeping, and his house +was chosen for a lottery-drawing of much importance--one for the building +of the lighthouse at Sandy Hook. This lottery was for six thousand pounds, +and lighthouse and lottery were special pets of Cadwallader Colden, then +President of his Majesty's Council. Lotteries were usually drawn at City +Hall, but just at that time repairs were being made upon that building, so +Mr. Burns's long room saw this important event. The lighthouse was built. +_The New York Magazine_ for 1790 has a picture and description of it. It +is there gravely stated that the light could be seen at a distance of ten +leagues, that is, thirty miles. As the present light at Sandy Hook is +officially registered to be seen at fifteen miles' distance, the marvel +of our ancestors must have shone with "a light that never was on land or +sea." + +Troublous times were now approaching. George Burns's long room held many +famous gatherings anent the Stamp Act--at the first the famous +Non-Importation Agreement was signed by two hundred stout-hearted New York +merchants. Sons of Liberty drank and toasted and schemed within the walls +of the Province Arms. Concerts and duels alternated with suppers and +society meetings; dancing committees and governors of the college poured +in and out of the Province Arms. In 1792 Peter De Lancey sold it to the +Tontine Association; the fine old mansion was torn down, and the City +Hotel sprang up in its place. + +The City Hotel filled the entire front of the block on Broadway between +Thomas and Cedar streets. Travellers said it had no equal in the United +States, but it was unpretentious in exterior, as may be seen through the +picture on the old blue and white plate (shown on page 38) which gives the +front view of the hotel with a man sawing wood on Broadway, this in about +1824. It was simply yet durably furnished, and substantial comfort was +found within. Though the dining room was simply a spacious, scrupulously +neat apartment, the waiters were numerous and well-trained. There was a +"lady's dining room" in which dances, lectures, and concerts were given. +The proprietors were two old bachelors, Jennings and Willard. It was +reported and believed that Willard never went to bed. He was never known +to be away from his post, and with ease and good nature performed his +parts of host, clerk, bookkeeper, and cashier. When Billy Niblo opened an +uptown coffee-house and garden, it was deemed a matter of courtesy that +Willard should attend the housewarming. When the hour of starting arrived, +it was found that Willard had not for years owned a hat. Two streets away +from the City Hall would have been to him a strange city, in which he +could be lost. Jennings was purveyor and attended to all matters of the +dining room, as well as relations with the external world. Both hosts had +the perfect memory of faces, names, and details, which often is an +accompaniment of the successful landlord. These two men were types of the +old-fashioned Boniface. + + +[Illustration: City Hotel.] + + +In the early half of the eighteenth century the genteel New York tavern +was that of Robert Todd, vintner. It was in Smith (now William) Street +between Pine and Cedar, near the Old Dutch Church. The house was known by +the sign of the Black Horse. Concerts, dinners, receptions, and balls took +place within its elegant walls. On the evening of January 19, 1736, a ball +was therein given in honor of the Prince of Wales's birthday. The healths +of the Royal Family, the Governor, and Council had been pledged loyally +and often at the fort through the day, and "the very great appearance of +ladies and gentlemen and an elegant entertainment" at the ball fitly ended +the celebration. The ladies were said to be "magnificent." The ball opened +with French dances and then proceeded to country dances, "upon which Mrs. +Morris led up to two new country dances made upon the occasion, the first +of which was called the Prince of Wales, the second the Princess of +Saxe-Gotha." + +The Black Horse was noted for its Todd drinks, mainly composed of choice +West India rum; and by tradition it is gravely asserted that from these +delectable beverages was derived the old drinking term "toddy." (Truth +compels the accompanying note that the word "toddy," like many of our +drinking names and the drinks themselves, came from India, and the word is +found in a geographical description of India written in 1671, before +Robert Todd was born, or the Black Horse Tavern thought of.) + +When Robert of toddy fame died, after nine years of successful +hospitality, his widow Margaret reigned in his stead. She had a turn for +trade, and advertised for sale, at wholesale, fine wines and playing +cards, at reasonable rates. In 1750 the Boston Post made this tavern its +headquarters, but its glory of popularity was waning and soon was wholly +gone. + +At the junction of 51st and 52d streets with the post-road stood Cato's +Road House, built in 1712. Cato was a negro slave who had so mastered +various specialties in cooking that he was able to earn enough money to +buy his freedom from his South Carolina master. He kept this inn for +forty-eight years. Those who tasted his okra soup, his terrapin, fried +chicken, curried oysters, roast duck, or drank his New York brandy-punch, +his Virginia egg-nogg, or South Carolina milk-punch, wondered how any one +who owned him ever could sell him even to himself. Alongside his road +house he built a ballroom which would let thirty couple swing widely in +energetic reels and quadrilles. When Christmas sleighing set in, the +Knickerbocker braves and belles drove out there to dance; and there was +_always_ sleighing at Christmas in old New York--all octogenarians will +tell you so. Cato's egg-nogg was mixed in single relays by the barrelful. +He knew precisely the mystic time when the separated white and yolk was +beaten enough, he knew the exact modicum of sugar, he could count with +precision the grains of nutmeg that should fleck the compound, he could +top to exactness the white egg foam. A picture of this old road house, +taken from a print, is here given. It seems but a shabby building to have +held so many gay scenes. + + +[Illustration: Cato's House.] + + +The better class of old-time taverns always had a parlor. This was used as +a sitting room for women travellers, or might be hired for the exclusive +use of some wealthy person or family. It was not so jovial a room as the +taproom, though in winter a glowing fire in the open fireplace gave to the +formal furnishings that look of good cheer and warmth and welcome which is +ever present, even in the meanest apartment, when from the great logs the +flames shot up and "the old rude-furnished room burst flower-like into +rosy bloom." We are more comfortable now, with our modern ways of +house-heating, but our rooms do not look as warm as when we had open +fires. In the summer time the fireplace still was an object of interest. A +poet writes:-- + + "'Tis summer now; instead of blinking flames + Sweet-smelling ferns are hanging o'er the grate. + With curious eyes I pore + Upon the mantel-piece with precious wares, + Glazed Scripture prints in black lugubrious frames, + Filled with old Bible lore; + The whale is casting Jonah on the shore: + Pharaoh is drowning in the curling wave. + And to Elijah sitting at his cave + The hospitable ravens fly in pairs + Celestial food within their horny beaks." + +The walls of one tavern parlor which I have seen were painted with scenes +from a tropical forest. On either side of the fireplace sprang a tall palm +tree. Coiled serpents, crouching tigers, monkeys, a white elephant, and +every form of vivid-colored bird and insect crowded each other on the +walls of this Vermont tavern. On the parlor of the Washington Tavern at +Westfield, Massachusetts, is a fine wallpaper with scenes of a fox-chase. +This tavern is shown on the opposite page; also on page 45 one of the fine +hand-wrought iron door-latches used on its doors. These were made in +England a century and a half ago. + + +[Illustration: Washington Tavern, Westfield, Massachusetts.] + + +The taproom was usually the largest room of the tavern. It had universally +a great fireplace, a bare, sanded floor, and ample seats and chairs. +Usually there was a tall, rather rude writing-desk, at which a traveller +might write a letter, or sign a contract, and where the landlord made out +his bills and kept his books. The bar was the most interesting furnishing +of this room. It was commonly made with a sort of portcullis grate, which +could be closed if necessary. But few of these bars remain; nearly all +have been removed, even if the tavern still stands. The taproom of the +Wayside Inn at Sudbury, Massachusetts, is shown on page 19. It is a +typical example of a room such as existed in hundreds of taverns a century +ago. Another taproom may still be seen in the Wadsworth Inn. This +well-built, fine old house, shown on page 47, is a good specimen of the +better class of old taverns. It is three miles from Hartford, Connecticut, +on the old Albany turnpike. It was one of twenty-one taverns within a +distance of twenty miles on that pike. It was not a staging inn for every +passing coach, but enjoyed an aristocratic patronage. The property has +been in the same family for five generations, but the present building was +erected by Elisha Wadsworth in 1828. It is not as old as the member of the +Wadsworth family who now lives in it, Miss Lucy Wadsworth, born in 1801. +Its old taproom is shown on page 51. This tavern was a public house till +the year 1862. + +Some of the furnishings of the taproom of the old Mowry Inn still are +owned by Landlord Mowry's descendants, and a group of them is shown on +page 7. Two heavy glass beakers brought from Holland, decorated with +vitrifiable colors like the Bristol glass, are unusual pieces. The wooden +tankard, certainly two centuries old, has the curious ancient lid hinge. +The Bellarmine jug was brought to America filled with fine old gin from +Holland by Mayor Willet, the first Mayor of New York City. The bowl is one +of the old Indian knot bowls. It has been broken and neatly repaired by +sewing the cracks together with waxed thread. The sign-board of this old +inn is shown on page 57. The house stood on the post-road between +Woonsocket and Providence, in a little village known as Lime Rock. As it +was a relay house for coaches, it had an importance beyond the size of the +settlement around it. + +Sometimes the taproom was decorated with broad hints to dilatory +customers. Such verses as this were hung over the bar:-- + + "I've trusted many to my sorrow. + Pay to-day. I'll trust to-morrow." + +Another ran:-- + + "My liquor's good, my measure just; + But, honest Sirs, I will not trust." + +Another showed a dead cat with this motto:-- + + "Care killed this Cat. + Trust kills the Landlord." + +Still another:-- + + "If Trust, + I must, + My ale, + Will pale." + + +[Illustration: Door-latch of Washington Tavern.] + + +The old Phillips farm-house at Wickford, Rhode Island, was at one time +used as a tavern. It has a splendid chimney over twenty feet square. So +much room does this occupy that there is no central staircase, and little +winding stairs ascend at three corners of the house. On each chimney-piece +are hooks to hang firearms, and at one side curious little drawers are set +for pipes and tobacco. I have seen these tobacco drawers in several old +taverns. In some Dutch houses in New York these tobacco shelves are found +in an unusual and seemingly ill-chosen place, namely, in the entry over +the front door; and a narrow flight of three or four steps leads up to +them. Hanging on a nail alongside the tobacco drawer or shelf would +usually be seen a pipe-tongs--or smoking tongs. They were slender little +tongs, usually of iron or steel; with them the smoker lifted a coal from +the fireplace to light his pipe. Sometimes the handle of the tongs had one +end elongated, knobbed, and ingeniously bent S-shaped into convenient form +to press down the tobacco into the bowl of the pipe. Other old-time +pipe-tongs were in the form of a lazy-tongs. A companion of the pipe-tongs +on the mantel was what was known as a comfortier; a little brazier of +metal in which small coals could be handed about for pipe lighting. An +unusual luxury was a comfortier of silver, which were found among the +wealthy Dutch settlers. + +Two old taverns of East Poultney, Vermont, are shown on page 59. Both +sheltered Horace Greeley in his sojourn there. The upper house, the Pine +Tree, is a "sun-line" house, facing due north, with its ends pointing east +and west. Throughout a century the other house, the Eagle Tavern, has +never lost its calling; now it is the only place in the village where the +tourist may find shelter for the night unless he takes advantage of the +kindness of some good-hearted housekeeper. + +The main portion of the Eagle Tavern of Newton, New Hampshire, is still +standing and is shown with its sign-board on page 126. It was the "halfway +house" on the much-travelled stage-road between Haverhill, Massachusetts, +and Exeter, New Hampshire. The house was kept by Eliphalet Bartlett in +Revolutionary times as account-books show, though the sign-board bears the +date 1798. The tavern originally had two long wings, in one of which was +kept a country store. Five generations of Bartletts were born in it before +it was sold to the present owners. The sign-board displays on one side the +eagle which confers the name; on the other, what was termed in old +descriptions a punch-bowl, but which is evidently a disjointed teapot. + + +[Illustration: Wadsworth Inn, Hartford, Connecticut.] + + +About the time when settlements in the New World had begun to assume the +appearance of towns, and some attempt at closely following English modes +of life became apparent, there were springing up in London at every street +corner coffee-houses, which flourished through the times of Dryden, +Johnson, and Goldsmith, till the close of the eighteenth century. Tea and +coffee came into public use in close companionship. The virtues of the +Turkish beverage were first introduced to Londoners by a retired Turkey +merchant named Daniel Edwards, and his Greek servant, Pasque Rosser. The +latter opened the first coffee-house in London in 1652. The first +advertisement of this first coffee venture is preserved in the British +Museum. + +The English of a certain class were always ready to turn an evil eye on +all new drinks, and coffee had to take its share of abuse. It was called +"syrup of soot," and "essence of old shoes," etc.; and the keeper of the +Rainbow Coffee-house was punished as a nuisance "for making and selling of +a drink called coffee whereby in making the same he annoyeth his +neighbours by evil smells." Soon, however, the smell of coffee was not +deemed evil, but became beloved; and every profession, trade, class, and +party had its coffee-house. The parsons met at one, "cits" at another; +soldiers did not drink coffee with lawyers, nor gamesters with +politicians. A penny was paid at the bar at entering, which covered +newspaper and lights; twopence paid for a dish of coffee. Coffee-houses +sprang up everywhere in America as in London. In 1752 in New York the New +or Royal Exchange was held to be so laudable an undertaking that L100 was +voted toward its construction by the Common Council. It was built like the +English exchanges, raised on brick arches, and was opened as a coffee-room +in 1754. The name of the Merchant's Coffee-house--on the southeast corner +of Wall and Water streets--appears in every old newspaper. It was a centre +of trade. Ships, cargoes, lands, houses, negroes, and varied merchandise +were "vendued" at this coffee-house. It also served as an insurance +office. Alexander Macraby wrote in 1768 in New York:-- + + "They have a vile practice here, which is peculiar to this city; I + mean that of playing back-gammon (a noise I detest) which is going + forward in the public coffee-houses from morning till night, + frequently ten or a dozen tables at a time." + +From this it will be seen that the English sin of gaming with cards did +not exist in New York coffee-houses. + +The London Coffee-house was famous in the history of Philadelphia. On +April 15, 1754, the printer, Bradford, put a notice in his journal for +subscribers to the coffee-house to meet at the court-house on the 19th to +choose trustees. Bradford applied for a license to the Governor and +Council thus:-- + + "Having been advised to keep a Coffee-House for the benefit of + merchants and traders, and as some people may be desirous at times to + be furnished with other liquors besides coffee, your petitioner + apprehends that it is necessary to have the government license." + +The coffee-house was duly opened; Bradford's account for opening day was +L9 6_s._ The trustees also lent him L259 of the L350 of subscriptions, +and this coffee-house became a factor in American history. The building, +erected about 1702, stood on the corner of Front and Market streets, on +land which had been given by Penn to his daughter Letitia. Bradford was a +grandson of the first printer Bradford, and father of the Attorney-General +of the United States under Washington. His standing at once gave the house +prestige and much custom. Westcott says "it was the headquarters of life +and action, the pulsating heart of excitement, enterprise, and +patriotism." Soldiers and merchants here met; slaves here were sold; +strangers resorted for news; captains sold cargoes; sheriffs held +"vandues." + +The Exchange Coffee-house of Boston was one of the most remarkable of all +these houses. It was a mammoth affair for its day, being seven stories in +height. It was completed in 1808, having been nearly three years in +building, and having cost half a million dollars. The principal floor was +an exchange. It ruined many of the workmen who helped to build it. During +the glorious days of stage-coach travel, its successor, built after it was +burnt in 1818, had a brilliant career as a staging tavern, for it had over +two hundred bedrooms, and was in the centre of the city. At this +Coffee-house Exchange was kept a register of marine news, arrivals, +departures, etc., and many distinguished naval officers were registered +there. At a sumptuous dinner given to President Monroe, who had rooms +there, in July, 1817, there were present Commodores Bainbridge, Hull, and +Perry; ex-President John Adams; Generals Swift, Dearborn, Cobb, and +Humphreys; Judges Story, Parker, Davis, Adams, and Jackson; Governor +Brooks, Governor Phillips, and many other distinguished men. + + +[Illustration: Taproom of Wadsworth Inn.] + + +It would be a curious and entertaining study to trace the evolution of our +great hotels, from the cheerful taverns and country inns, beloved of all +travellers, to more pretentious road houses, to coffee-houses, then to +great crowded hotels. We could see the growth of these vast hotels, +especially those of summer resorts, and also their decay. In many +fashionable watering-places great hotels have been torn down within a few +years to furnish space for lawns and grounds around a splendid private +residence. Many others are deserted and closed, some flourish in +exceptional localities which are in isolated or remote parts of the +country, such as southern Florida, the Virginia mountains, etc.; many have +been forced to build so-called cottages where families can have a little +retirement and privacy between meals, which are still eaten in a vast +common dining room. But the average American of means in the Northern +states, whose parents never left the city till after the 4th of July, and +then spent a few weeks in the middle of the summer in a big hotel at +Saratoga, or Niagara Falls, or Far Rockaway, or in the White Mountains, +now spends as many months in his own country home. A few extraordinary +exceptions in hotel life in America remain prosperous, however, the chief +examples on our Eastern coast being at Atlantic City and Old Point +Comfort. + +The study of tavern history often brings to light much evidence of sad +domestic changes. Many a cherished and beautiful home, rich in annals of +family prosperity and private hospitality, ended its days as a tavern. +Many a stately building of historic note was turned into an inn in its +later career. The Indian Queen in Philadelphia had been at various times +the home of Sir Richard Penn, the headquarters of General Howe and of +General Benedict, the home of Robert Morris and Presidents Washington and +Adams. Benjamin Franklin's home became a tavern; so also did the splendid +Bingham mansion, which was built in 1790 by the richest man of his day. +Governor Lloyd's house became the Cross Trees Inn. Boston mansions had the +same fate. That historic building--the Province House--served its term as +a tavern. + +Sometimes an old-time tavern had a special petty charm of its own, some +peculiarity of furnishing or fare. One of these was the Fountain Inn of +Medford, Massachusetts. It was built in 1725 and soon became vastly +frequented. No town could afford a better site for inns than Medford. All +the land travel to Boston from Maine, eastern New Hampshire, and +northeastern Massachusetts poured along the main road through Medford, +which was just distant enough from Boston centre to insure the halting and +patronage of every passer-by. The Fountain Inn bustled with constant +customers, and I can well believe that all wanderers gladly stopped to +board and bait at this hospitable tavern. For I know nothing more +attractive, "under the notion of an inn," than this old tavern must have +been, especially through the long summer months. It was a road house and +stood close to the country road, so was never quiet; yet it afforded +nevertheless a charming and restful retreat for weary and heated +wanderers. For on either side of the front dooryard grew vast +low-spreading trees, and in their heavy branches platforms were built and +little bridges connected tree to tree, and both to the house. Perhaps the +happy memories of hours and days of my childhood spent in a like tree nest +built in an old apple tree, endow these tree rooms of the Fountain Inn +with charms which cannot be equally endorsed and appreciated by all who +read of them; but to me they form an ideal traveller's joy. To sit there +through the long afternoon or in the early twilight, cool and half remote +among the tree branches, drinking a dish of tea; watching horsemen and +cartmen and sturdy pedestrians come and go, and the dashing mail-coach +rattle up, a flash of color and noise and life, and pour out its motley +passengers, and speedily roll away with renewed patrons and splendor--why, +it was like a scene in a light opera. + + +[Illustration: Fountain Inn.] + + +The tree abodes and the bridges fell slowly in pieces, and one great tree +died; but its companion lived till 1879, when it, too, was cut down and +the bald old commonplace building crowded on the dusty street stood bare +and ugly, without a vestige or suggestion of past glory around it. Now +that, too, is gone, and only the picture on the opposite page, of the +tavern in its dying poverty, remains to show what was once the scene of so +much bustle and good cheer. + +The State House Inn of Philadelphia was built in 1693, and was long known +as Clark's Inn. It was a poor little building which stood in a yard, not +green with grass, but white with oysters and clam shells. Its proximity to +the State House gave it the custom of the members and hangers-on of the +colonial assemblies. William Penn often smoked his pipe on its porch. +Clark had a sign-board, the Coach and Horses, and he had something else +which was as common perhaps in Philadelphia as tavern sign-boards, namely, +turnspit dogs--little patient creatures, long-bodied and crook-legged, +whose lives were spent in the exquisite tantalization of helping to cook +the meat, whose appetizing odors of roasting they sniffed for hours +without any realization of tasting at the end of their labors. + +Dr. Caius, founder of the college at Cambridge, England, that bears his +name, is the earliest English writer upon the dog, and he tells thus of +turnspits: "Certain dogs in kitchen service excellent. When meat is to be +roasted they go into a wheel, where, turning about with the weight of +their bodies they so diligently look to their business that no drudge or +scullion can do the feat more cunningly." The Philadelphia landlord says +in his advertisement of dogs for sale, "No clock or jack so cunningly." +The summary and inhuman mode of teaching these turnspits their humble +duties is described in a book of anecdotes published at Newcastle-on-Tyne +in 1809. The dog was put in the wheel. A burning coal was placed with him. +If he stopped, his legs were burned. That was all. He soon learned his +lesson. It was hard work, for often the great piece of beef was twice the +weight of the dog, and took at least three long hours' roasting. I am glad +to know that these hard-working turn-broches usually grew shrewd with age; +learned to vanish at the approach of the cook or the appearance of the +wheel. At one old-time tavern in New York little brown Jesse listened +daily at the kitchen doorstep while the orders were detailed to the +kitchen maids, and he could never be found till nightfall on roast-meat +days; nay, more, he, as was the custom of dogs in that day, went with his +mistress to meeting and lay at her feet in the pew. And when the parson +one Sunday chose to read and expound from the first chapter of Ezekiel, +Jesse fled with silent step and slunken tail and drooping ears at the +unpleasant verse, "And when the living creatures went, the wheels went by +them; and when the living creatures were lifted up from the earth, the +wheels were lifted up." Naturally Jesse never suspected that these +Biblical wheels were only parts of innocent allegorical chariots, but +deemed them instead a very untimely and unkind reminder on a day of rest +of his own hated turnspit wheel. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of N. Mowry's Inn.] + + +One of the sweetest of all tales of an inn is that begun by Professor +Reichel and ended by Mr. John W. Jordan of the Historical Society of +Pennsylvania; it is called "A Red Rose from the Olden Time." It is a story +of _Der neue Gasthof_ or "The Tavern behind Nazareth," as it was modestly +called, the tavern of the Moravian settlement at Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. +It was a substantial building, "quartered, brick-nogged, and snugly +weatherboarded, with a yard looking North and a Garden looking South." In +1754, under the regency of its first ruler, one Schaub, the cooper, and +Divert Mary, his faithful wife, it bore a sign-board charged with a +full-blown rose, and was ever after known as the Rose. This was not +because the walls were coated with Spanish red; this rose bloomed with a +life derived from sentiment and history, for it was built on land released +by William Penn on an annual payment as rental of ONE RED ROSE. + +There is something most restful and beautiful in the story of this old +inn. Perhaps part of the hidden charm comes from the Biblical names of the +towns. For, without our direct consciousness, there is ever something +impressive in Biblical association; there is a magical power in Biblical +comparison, a tenderness in the use of Biblical words and terms which we +feel without actively noting. So this Red Rose of Nazareth seems built on +the road to Paradise. An inventory was made of the homely contents of the +Rose in 1765, when a new landlord entered therein; and they smack of the +world, the flesh, and the devil. Ample store was there of rum, both of New +England and the West Indies, of Lisbon wine, of cider and madigolum, which +may have been metheglin. Punch-bowls, tumblers, decanters, funnels, black +bottles, and nutmeg-graters and nutmegs also. Feather-beds and pillows +were there in abundance, and blankets and coverlets, much pewter and +little china, ample kitchen supplies of all sorts. In war and peace its +record was of interest, and its solid walls stood still colored a deep red +till our own day. + + +[Illustration: Pine-tree Tavern and Eagle Tavern.] + + +The night-watch went his rounds in many of our colonial towns, and called +the hour and the weather. Stumbling along with his long staff and his dim +horn-lantern, he formed no very formidable figure either to affright +marauders or warn honest citizens that they tarried too long in the +taproom. But his voice gave a certain sense of protection to all who +chanced to wake in the night, a knowledge that a friend was near. All who +dwelt in the old towns of Bethlehem and Nazareth in Pennsylvania could +listen and be truly cheered by the sound of the beautiful verses written +for the night watchman by Count Zinzendorf. In winter the watchman began +his rounds at eight o'clock, in summer at nine. No scenes of brawling or +tippling could have prevailed at the Rose Inn when these words of peace +and piety rang out:-- + + Eight o'clock: + The clock is eight! To Bethlehem all is told, + How Noah and his seven were saved of old. + + Nine o'clock: + Hear, Brethren, hear! The hour of nine is come; + Keep pure each heart and chasten every home. + + Ten o'clock: + Hear, Brethren, hear! Now ten the hour-hand shows; + They only rest who long for night's repose. + + Eleven o'clock: + The clock's eleven! And ye have heard it all, + How in that hour the mighty God did call. + + Twelve o'clock: + It's midnight now! And at that hour ye know + With lamps to meet the bridegroom we must go. + + One o'clock: + The hour is one! Through darkness steals the day. + Shines in your hearts the morning star's first ray? + + Two o'clock: + The clock is two! Who comes to meet the day, + And to the Lord of Days his homage pay? + + Three o'clock: + The clock is three! The three in one above + Let body, soul, and spirit truly love. + + Four o'clock: + The clock is four! Where'er on earth are three, + The Lord has promised He the fourth will be. + + Five o'clock: + The clock is five! While five away were sent, + Five other virgins to the marriage went. + + Six o'clock: + The clock is six! And from the watch I'm free, + And every one may his own watchman be. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +THE TAVERN LANDLORD + + +The landlord of colonial days may not have been the greatest man in town, +but he was certainly the best-known, often the most popular, and ever the +most picturesque and cheerful figure. Travellers did not fail to note him +and his virtues in their accounts of their sojourns. In 1686 a gossiping +London bookseller and author, named John Dunton, made a cheerful visit to +Boston. He did not omit to pay tribute in his story of colonial life to +colonial landlords. He thus pictures George Monk, the landlord of the Blue +Anchor of Boston:-- + + "A person so remarkable that, had I not been acquainted with him, it + would be a hard matter to make any New England man believe I had been + in Boston; for there was no one house in all the town more noted, or + where a man might meet with better accommodation. Besides, he was a + brisk and jolly man, whose conversation was coveted by all his guests + as the life and spirit of the company." + +This picture of an old-time publican seems more suited to English +atmosphere than to the stern air of New England Puritanism. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Washington Hotel.] + + +Grave and respectable citizens were chosen to keep the early ordinaries +and sell liquor. The first "house of intertainment" at Cambridge, +Massachusetts, was kept by a deacon of the church, afterward Steward of +Harvard College. The first license in that town to sell wine and strong +water was to Nicholas Danforth, a selectman, and Representative to the +General Court. In the Plymouth Colony Mr. William Collier and Mr. Constant +Southworth, one of the honored Deputies, sold wine to their neighbors. +These sober and discreet citizens were men of ample means, who took the +duty of wine-selling to aid the colony rather than their own incomes. + +The first ordinary in the town of Duxbury was kept by one Francis Sprague, +said by a local chronicler to be of "ardent temperament." His license was +granted October 1, 1638, "to keep a victualling on Duxburrow side." His +ardent temperament shaped him into a somewhat gay reveller, and his +license was withdrawn. It was regranted and again recalled in 1666. His +son succeeded him, another jovial fellow. Duxbury folk were circumspect +and sober, and desired innkeepers of cooler blood. Mr. Seabury, one of the +tavern inspectors, was granted in 1678 "to sell liquors unto such +sober-minded neighbours as hee shall thinke meet; soe as hee sell not +lesse than the quantie of a gallon att a tyme to one pson, and not in +smaller quantities by retaile to the occationing of drunkeness." + +The license to sell liquor and keep a tavern explained clearly the +limitations placed on a tavern-keeper. The one given the Andover landlord +in 1692 ran thus:-- + + "The Condition of this Obligation is sent. That Whereas the above said + William Chandler is admitted and allowed by their Majesties' Justices + at a General Sessions of the Peace to keep a common Home of + Entertainment and to use common selling of Ale, Beer, Syder, etc., + till the General Session of Peace next, in the now-Dwelling house of + said Chandler in Andover, commonly known by the sign of the Horse Shoe + and no other, if therefore the said William Chandler, during the time + of keeping a Publick House shall not permit, suffer, or have any + playing at Dice, Cards, Tables, Quoits, Loggets, Bowls, Ninepins, + Billiards, or any other unlawful Game or Games in his House, yard, + Garden, or Backside, nor shall suffer to be or remain in his House any + person or persons not being of his own family upon Saturday nights + after it is Dark, nor any time on the Sabbath Day or Evening after the + Sabbath, nor shall suffer any person to lodge or stay in his House + above one Day or Night, but such whose Name and Surname he shall + deliver to some one of the Selectmen or Constables or some one of the + Officers of the Town, unless they be such as he very well knoweth, and + will answer for his or their forthcoming: nor shall sell any Wine or + Liquors to any Indians or Negroes nor suffer any apprentices or + servants or any other persons to remain in his house tippling or + drinking after nine of the Clock in the night time; nor buy or take to + Pawn any stolen goods, nor willingly Harbor in his said House, Barn, + Stable, or Otherwhere any Rogues, Vagabonds, Thieves, nor other + notorious offenders whatsoever, nor shall suffer any person or persons + to sell or utter any ale, beer, syder, etc., by Deputation or by + colour of this License, and also keep the true assize and measure in + his Pots, Bread and otherwise in uttering of ale, beer, syder, rum, + wine, &c., and the same sell by sealed measure. And in his said house + shall and do use and maintain good order and Rule: Then this present + Obligation to be either void, or else to stand in full Force, Power, + and Virtue." + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Hays' Tavern.] + + +Dr. Dwight in his Travels said that Englishmen often laughed at the fact +that inns in New England were kept by men of consequence. He says:-- + + "Our ancestors considered the inn a place where corruption might + naturally arise and easily spread; also as a place where travellers + must trust themselves, their horses, baggage, and money, and where + women must not be subjected to disagreeable experiences. To provide + for safety and comfort and against danger and mischief they took + particular pains in their laws to prevent inns from being kept by + unprincipled or worthless men. Every innkeeper in Connecticut must be + recommended by the selectmen and civil authorities, constables and + grand jurors of the town in which he resides, and then licensed at the + discretion of the Court of Common Pleas. It was substantially the same + in Massachusetts and New Hampshire." + +Lieutenant Francis Hall, travelling through America in 1817, wrote:-- + + "The innkeepers of America are in most villages what we call vulgarly, + topping men--field officers of militia, with good farms attached to + their taverns, so that they are apt to think what, perhaps, in a newly + settled country is not very wide of the truth, that travellers rather + receive than confer a favour by being accommodated at their houses. + The daughters of the host officiate at tea and breakfast and generally + wait at dinner." + +An English traveller who visited this country shortly after the Revolution +speaks in no uncertain terms of "the uncomplying temper of the landlords +of the country inns in America." Another adds this testimony:-- + + "They will not bear the treatment we too often give ours at home. They + feel themselves in some degree independent of travellers, as all of + them have other occupations to follow; nor will they put themselves + into a bustle on your account; but with good language, they are very + civil, and will accommodate you as well as they can." + +Brissot comprehended the reason for this appearance of independence; he +wrote in 1788:-- + + "You will not go into one without meeting neatness, decency, and + dignity. The table is served by a maiden well-dressed and pretty; by a + pleasant mother whose age has not effaced the agreeableness of her + features; and by men _who have that air of respectability which is + inspired by the idea of equality_, and are not ignoble and base like + the greater part of our own tavern-keepers." + +Captain Basil Hall, a much-quoted English traveller who came to America in +1827, designated a Salem landlord as the person who most pleased him in +his extended visit. Sad to say he gives neither the name of the tavern nor +the host who was "so devoid of prejudice, so willing to take all matters +on their favourable side, so well informed about everything in his own and +other countries, so ready to impart his knowledge to others; had such +mirthfulness of fancy, such genuine heartiness of good-humour," etc. + + +[Illustration: Cooper Tavern.] + + +In 1828 a series of very instructive and entertaining letters on the +United States was published under the title, _Notions of the Americans_. +They are accredited to James Fenimore Cooper, and were addressed to +various foreigners of distinction. The travels took place in 1824, at the +same time as the visit of Lafayette, and frequently in his company. +Naturally inns, hotels, and modes of travel receive much attention. He +speaks thus lucidly and pleasantly of the landlords:-- + + "The innkeeper of Old England and the innkeeper of New England form + the very extremes of their class. The former is obsequious to the + rich; the other unmoved and often apparently cold. The first seems to + calculate at a glance the amount of profit you are likely to leave + behind you, while his opposite appears to calculate only in what + manner he can most contribute to your comfort without materially + impairing his own.... He is often a magistrate, the chief of a + battalion of militia or even a member of a state legislature. He is + almost always a man of character, for it is difficult for any other to + obtain a license to exercise the calling." + +John Adams thus described the host and hostess of the Ipswich Inn:-- + + "Landlord and landlady are some of the grandest people alive, landlady + is the great-granddaughter of Governor Endicott and has all the + notions of high family that you find in the Winslows, Hutchinsons, + Quincys, Saltonstalls, Chandlers, Otises, Learneds, and as you might + find with more propriety in the Winthrops. As to landlord, he is as + happy and as big, as proud, as conceited, as any nobleman in England, + always calm and good-natured and lazy, but the contemplation of his + farm and his sons, his house and pasture and cows, his sound judgment + as he thinks, and his great holiness as well as that of his wife, keep + him as erect in his thoughts as a noble or a prince." + +The curiosity and inquisitiveness of many landlords was a standing jest. + +"I have heard Dr. Franklin relate with great pleasantry," said one of his +friends, "that in travelling when he was young, the first step he took for +his tranquillity and to obtain immediate attention at the inns, was to +anticipate inquiry by saying, 'My name is Benjamin Franklin. I was born in +Boston. I am a printer by profession, am travelling to Philadelphia, shall +have to return at such a time, and have no news. Now, what can you give +me for dinner?'" + +The landlord was usually a politician, sometimes a rank demagogue. He +often held public office, was selectman, road commissioner, tax assessor, +tax collector, constable, or town moderator; occasionally he performed all +these duties. John Adams wrote bitterly that at public houses men sat +drinking heavily while "plotting with the landlord to get him at the next +town-meeting an election either for selectman or representative." + +They were most frequently soldiers, either officers in the militia or +brave fighters who had served in the army. It was a favorite calling for +Revolutionary soldiers who lived till times of peace. They were usually +cheerful men; a gloomy landlord made customers disappear like flowers +before a frost. And these cheery hosts were fond of practical jokes. + +One of the old hotels with the long piazza across the entire front was +owned by a jesting landlord who never failed to spring an April-fool joke +on his forgetful customers each year. The tavern had two doors, and every +winter these were protected by portable storm porches the width of the +door and about four feet deep. On the first day of April the landlord +moved the porches a few feet down the piazza, so they opened upon the +blank wall of the house. The house and piazza sat at such an angle with +the walk from the street that the uncovered front doors were not visible +to the visitor, so the delusion was complete. Grocerymen, butchers, +bakers, travellers, even the tavern servants, invariably fell into the +trap, thrust open the door, which swung with a slam and left them facing +the blank wall. Any tavern frequenter, caught early in the day, was always +ready to tole in a group of victims. As they walked up the steps he would +say, "Come, boys, let's all pile into the office in a bunch and holler, +'Hullo, old Jed,' all together." All agreed and charged with a rush into +the 4 x 6 storm box, while the plotter of the trick went in the real door +and sat coolly sipping a rum punch as the confused and angry contingent +came in with battered hats and bruised elbows, after its scuffle in the +trap. + + +[Illustration: Shelby's Traveller's Rest.] + + +One landlord had the name of frequently tricking travellers who stopped +for a single meal by having the driver call out "Stage is ready" before +they could eat the dinner they had ordered and paid for. A Yankee +passenger disregarded this hasty summons and leisurely ate his dinner +while the stage drove off without him. He finished the roast and called at +last for a bowl of bread and milk to top off with as dessert. Not a spoon +could be found for this dish, though plenty of silver spoons had been on +the table when the stage stopped. To the distracted landlord the Yankee +drawled out, "Do you think them passengers was going away without +something for their money? I could p'int out the man that took them +spoons." A stable boy on a fleet horse was promptly despatched after the +stage, and overtook it two miles down the road. A low-spoken explanation +and request to the driver caused him to turn quickly around and drive back +to the tavern door with all the angry protesting passengers. The excited +landlord called out to the Yankee as the coach stopped, "You just p'int +out the man that took them spoons."--"Sartainly, Squire," said he, as he +climbed into the coach, "I'll p'int him out. I took 'em myself. You'll +find 'em all in the big coffee pot on the table. Hurry up, driver, I've +had my dinner. All aboard." + +Grant Thorburn quaintly tells of this custom at another tavern:-- + + "At Providence coaches were ready: on flew through the dust and sweat + of the day like Jehus. At the tavern dinner was ready, but there was + no contract for time to eat; after grace from Dr. Cox (too long for + the occasion) we begun to eat. Scarcely had I swallowed half my first + course when in came driver hallowing "All ready." I thought there was + a stable-yard understanding between him and the landlord, for while we + were brushing the dust from our clothes, mustering and saying grace, + he was eating and drinking as fast as he could, and I did not observe + that he paid anything. We arrived at the Eagle Tavern (Boston) about + sundown; the ladies' hats and frocks which had shewed colours enough + to have decked fifteen rainbows were now one, viz.: ashes on ashes and + dust on dust." + +The graceless modern reader might suspect that the "stable-yard +understanding" included the parson. + + +[Illustration: Miller's Tavern.] + + +A very amusing and original landlord was "Devil" Dave Miller, of the old +General Washington Tavern which stood on East King Street, Lancaster, +Pennsylvania. He was very stout and was generally seen in public +bestriding an unusually small horse, which he would ride into his barroom +to get a drink for both. When he wished to dismount, he rode to the +doorway and hung on the frame of the door with his hands. The horse would +walk from under him and go unguided to the stable. An old print of this +tavern marked D. Miller's Hotel, is shown on page 73. The various vehicles +standing in front of the hotel are interesting in shape,--old chaises, +chairs, and a coach. + +An old landlord named Ramsay had a spacious and popular inn on a +much-travelled turnpike road, and was the proprietor of a prosperous line +of stage-coaches. He waxed rich, but though looked up to by all in the +community, plainly showed by the precarious condition of his health in his +advancing years that he partook too freely of his own "pure old rye." His +family and friends, though thoroughly alarmed, did not dare to caution the +high-spirited old gentleman against this over-indulgence; and the family +doctor was deputed to deal with the squire in the most delicate and +tactful manner possible. The doctor determined to employ a parable, as did +Nathan to David, and felt confident of success; and to deliver his +metaphorical dose he entered the taproom and cheerfully engaged the squire +in conversation upon an ever favorite topic, the stage-coach. He finally +ran on to know how long a well-built coach would last on the road, and +then said: "Now, Squire, if you had a fine well-built old coach that had +done good service, but showed age by being a little shackling, being +sprung a little, having the seams open, would you hitch it up with young +horses and put it on a rough road, or would you favor it with steady old +stagers and the smoothest road you could find?"--"Well, Doctor," answered +the squire, "if I had such a coach as that _I would soak it_." And that +seemed to bring the doctor's parable to a somewhat sudden and unprofitable +ending. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +TAVERN FARE AND TAVERN WAYS + + +In the year 1704 a Boston widow named Sarah Knights journeyed "by post," +that is, went on horseback, in the company of the government postman, from +Boston to New York, and returned a few months later. She kept a journal of +her trip, and as she was a shrewd woman with a sharp eye and sharper +tongue, her record is of interest. She stopped at the various hostelries +on the route, some of which were well-established taverns, others +miserable makeshifts; and she gives us some glimpses of rather rude fare. +On the first night of her journey she rode late to "overtake the post," +and this is the account of her reception at her first lodging-place:-- + + "My guide dismounted and very complasently shewed the door signing to + me to Go in, which I Gladly did. But had not gone many steps into the + room ere I was interrogated by a young Lady with these or words to + this purpose, viz., Law for mee--what in the world brings you here + this time-a-night? I never see a Woman on the Rode so Late in all my + Varsall Life! Who are you? Where are you goeing? Im scar'd out of my + witts.... She then turned agen to mee and fell anew into her silly + questions without asking mee to sit down. I told her she treated me + very Rudely and I did not think it my duty to answer her unmannerly + questions. But to get ridd of them I told her I come there to have the + Posts company with me to morrow on my journey." + +She thus describes one stopping-place:-- + + "I pray'd her to show me where I must lodge. Shee conducted mee to a + parlour in a little back Lento, which was almost filled with the + bedstead, which was so high that I was forced to climb on a chair to + gitt up to ye wretched bed that lay on it, on which having Strecht my + tired Limbs and lay'd my Head on a Sad-coloured pillow, I began to + think on the transactions of ye past day." + +At another place she complained that the dinner had been boiled in the +dye-kettle, that the black slaves ate at the table with their master, "and +into the dish goes the black hoof as freely as the white hand...." Again +she says:-- + + "We would have eat a morsell, but the Pumpkin and Indian-mixt Bread + had such an aspect, and the Bare-legg'd Punch so awkerd or rather + awfull a sound that we left both." + +At Rye, New York, she lodged at an ordinary kept by a Frenchman. She thus +writes:-- + + "Being very hungry I desired a Fricassee which the landlord + undertaking managed so contrary to my notion of Cookery that I + hastened to Bed superless. Being shew'd the way up a pair of Stairs + which had such a narrow passage that I had almost stopt by the Bulk of + my Body; But arriving at my Apartment found it to be a little Lento + Chamber furnisht among other Rubbish with a High Bedd and a Low one, a + Long Table, a Bench and a Bottomless Chair. Little Miss went to + scratch up my Kennell whch Russelled as if shee'd bin in the Barn + among the Husks and supose such was the contents of the + Tickin--nevertheless being exceedingly weary down I laid my poor + Carkes never more tired and found my Covering as scanty as my bed was + hard. Anon I heard another Russelling noise in the room--called to + know the matter--Little Miss said she was making a bed for the men; + who when they were in Bed complain'd their Leggs lay out of it by + reason of its shortness--my poor bones complained bitterly not being + used to such Lodgings, and so did the man who was with us; and poor I + made but one Grone which was from the time I went to bed to the time I + riss which was about three in the morning Setting up by the fire till + light." + +Manners were rude enough at many country taverns until well into the +century. There could be no putting on of airs, no exclusiveness. All +travellers sat at the same table. Many of the rooms were double-bedded, +and four who were strangers to each other often slept in each other's +company. + +An English officer wrote of this custom in America:-- + + "The general custom of having two or three beds in a room to be sure + is very disagreeable; it arises from the great increase of travelling + within the last few years, and the smallness of their houses, which + were not built for houses of entertainment." + +Mr. Twining said that after you were asleep the landlord entered, candle +in hand, and escorted a stranger to your side, and he calmly shared the +bed till morning. Thurlow Weed said that any one who objected to a +stranger as a bedfellow was regarded as obnoxious and as unreasonably +fastidious. Still Captain Basil Hall declared that even at remote taverns +his family had exclusive apartments; while in crowded inns it was never +even suggested to him that other travellers should share his quarters. + + +[Illustration: Ellery Tavern.] + + +Many old tavern account-books and bills exist to show us the price of +tavern fare at various dates. + +Mr. Field gives a bill of board at the Bowen Inn at Barrington, Rhode +Island. John Tripp and his wife put up at the inn on the 11th of May, +1776. + + _s._ _d._ + + "To 1 Dinner 9 + To Bread and Cheese 7 + To breakfast & dinner 1 3 + To 1 Bowl Toddy 9 + To Lodging you and wife 6 + To 1-1/2 Bowl Toddy 1 1-1/2 + To 1/2 Mug Cyder 1-1/2 + To lodge self and wife 6 + To 1 Gill Brandy 5-1/2 + To breakfast 9-1/2 + Mug Cyder 1-1/2 + To 1/2 bowl Toddy 4-1/2 + Dinner 8 + To 15 Lb Tobacco at 6_d._ 7 6 + To 1/4 Bowl Toddy 4-1/2 + To 1/2 Mug Cyder 1-1/2 + To Supper 6" + +I suppose the quarter bowls of toddy were for Madam Tripp. + +The house known for many years as the Ellery Tavern is still standing in +Gloucester, Massachusetts, and is a very good example of the overhanging +second story, as is shown in the front view of it given on page 79; and +also of the lean-to, or sloping-roofed ell, which is shown by the picture +on page 83 of the rear of the house. This house was built by Parson White +in 1707, and afterward kept as a tavern by James Stevens till 1740; then +it came into the hands of Landlord Ellery. As in scores of other taverns +in other towns, the selectmen of the town held their meetings within its +doors. There were five selectmen in 1744, and their annual salary for +transacting the town's business was five dollars apiece. The tavern +charges, however, for their entertainment amounted to L30, old tenor. It +is not surprising, therefore, to read in the town records of the following +year that the citizens voted the selectmen a salary of L5, old tenor, +apiece, and "to find themselves." Nevertheless, in 1749, there was another +bill from the Ellery Tavern of L78, old tenor, for the selectmen who had +been sworn in the year previously and thus welcomed, "Expense for +selectmen and Licker, L3. 18_s._" The Ellery Tavern has seen many another +meeting of good cheer since those days. + +The selectmen of the town of Cambridge, Massachusetts, met at the Blue +Anchor Tavern, which was established as an ordinary as early as 1652. +Their bill for 1769 runs thus:-- + + "The Selectmen of the Town of Cambridge to Ebenezer Bradish, Dr. 1769: + + March, To dinners and drink L0. 17. 8 + April, To flip and punch 2. + May, To wine and eating 6. 8 + May, To dinners, drink and suppers 18. + May, To flip and cheese 1. 8 + May, To wine and flip 4. + June, To punch 2. 8 + July, To punch and eating 4. + August, To punch and cheese 3. 7 + October, To punch and flip 4. 8 + October, To dinners and drink 13. 8 + Sundries 12. + -------- + L4. 10. 7" + +"Ordination Day" was almost as great a day for the tavern as for the +meeting-house. The visiting ministers who came to assist at the religious +service of ordination of a new minister were usually entertained at the +tavern. Often a specially good beer was brewed called "ordination beer," +and in Connecticut an "ordination ball" was given at the tavern--this with +the sanction of the parsons. The bills for entertaining the visitors, for +the dinner and lodging at the local taverns, are in many cases preserved. +One of the most characteristic was at a Hartford ordination. It runs:-- + + L _s._ _d._ + "To keeping Ministers 2. 4 + 2 Mugs tody 5. 10 + 5 Segars 3 + 1 Pint Wine 9 + 3 Lodgings 9 + 3 Bitters 9 + 3 Breakfasts 3. 6 + 15 boles Punch 1. 10 + 24 dinners 1. 16 + 11 bottles wine 3. 6 + 5 Mugs flip 5. 10 + 5 Boles Punch 6 + 3 Boles Tody 3. 6" + +The bill is endorsed with unconscious humor, "This all paid for except the +Ministers Rum." + + +[Illustration: Lean-to of Ellery Tavern.] + + +The book already referred to, called _Notions of the Americans_, tells of +taverns during the triumphal tour of Lafayette in 1824. The author writes +thus of the stage-house, or tavern, on the regular stage line. He said he +stopped at fifty such, some not quite so good and some better than the one +he chooses to describe, namely, Bispham's at Trenton, New Jersey. + + "We were received by the landlord with perfect civility, but without + the slightest shade of obsequiousness. The deportment of the innkeeper + was manly, courteous, and even kind; but there was that in his air + which sufficiently proved that both parties were expected to manifest + the same qualities. We were asked if we all formed one party, or + whether the gentlemen who alighted from stage number one wished to be + by themselves. We were shown into a neat well-furnished little + parlour, where our supper made its appearance in the course of twenty + minutes. The table contained many little delicacies, such as game, + oysters, and choice fish, and several things were named to us as at + hand if needed. The tea was excellent, the coffee as usual indifferent + enough. The papers of New York and Philadelphia were brought at our + request, and we sat with our two candles before a cheerful fire + reading them as long as we pleased. Our bed-chambers were spacious, + well-furnished, and as neat as possible; the beds as good as one + usually finds them out of France. Now for these accommodations, which + were just as good with one solitary exception (sanitary) as you would + meet in the better order of English provincial inns, and much better + in the quality and abundance of the food, we paid the sum of 4_s._ + 6_d._ each." + +A copy is given opposite page 86 of a bill of the "O. Cromwell's Head +Tavern" of Boston, which was made from a plate engraved by Paul Revere. +This tavern was kept for over half a century by members of the Brackett +family. It was distinctly the tavern of the gentry, and many a +distinguished guest had "board, lodging, and eating" within its walls, as +well as the wine, punch, porter, and liquor named on the bill. It will be +noted that the ancient measure--a pottle--is here used. Twenty years +before the Revolutionary War, and just after the crushing defeat of the +British general, Braddock, in what was then the West, an intelligent young +Virginian named George Washington, said to be a good engineer and soldier, +lodged at the Cromwell's Head Tavern, while he conferred with Governor +Shirley, the great war Governor of the day, on military affairs and +projects. When this same Virginian soldier entered Boston at the head of +a victorious army, he quartered his troops in Governor Shirley's mansion +and grounds. + +The sign-board of this tavern bore a portrait of the Lord Protector, and +it is said it was hung so low that all who passed under it had to make a +necessary reverence. + +While British martial law prevailed in Boston, the grim head of Cromwell +became distasteful to Tories, who turned one side rather than walk under +the shadow of the sign-board, and at last Landlord Brackett had to take +down and hide the obnoxious symbol. + +The English traveller Melish was loud in his praise of the taverns +throughout New York State as early as 1806. He noted at Little Falls, then +in the backwoods, and two hundred miles from New York, that on the +breakfast table were "table-cloth, tea tray, tea-pots, milk-pot, bowls, +cups, sugar-tongs, teaspoons, casters, plates, knives, forks, tea, sugar, +cream, bread, butter, steak, eggs, cheese, potatoes, beets, salt, vinegar, +pepper," and all for twenty-five cents. He said Johnstown had but sixty +houses, of which nine were taverns. + +Another English traveller told of the fare in American hotels in 1807. +While in Albany at "Gregory's," which he said was equal to many of the +London hotels, he wrote:-- + + "It is the custom in all American taverns, from the highest to the + lowest, to have a sort of public table at which the inmates of the + house and travellers dine together at a certain hour. It is also + frequented by many single gentlemen belonging to the town. At + Gregory's upwards of thirty sat down to dinner, though there were not + more than a dozen who resided in the house. A stranger is thus soon + introduced to an acquaintance with the people, and if he is travelling + alone he will find at these tables some relief from the ennui of his + situation. At the better sort of American taverns very excellent + dinners are provided, consisting of almost everything in season. The + hour is from two to three o'clock, and there are three meals in the + day. They breakfast at eight o'clock upon rump steaks, fish, eggs, and + a variety of cakes with tea or coffee. The last meal is at seven in + the evening, and consists of as substantial fare as the breakfast, + with the addition of cold fowl, ham, &c. The price of boarding at + these houses is from a dollar and a half to two dollars per day. + Brandy, hollands, and other spirits are allowed at dinner, but every + other liquor is paid for extra. English breakfasts and teas, generally + speaking, are meagre repasts compared with those of America, and as + far as I observed the people live with respect to eating in a much + more luxurious manner than we do. Many private families live in the + same style as at these houses; and have as great variety. Formerly + pies, puddings, and cyder used to grace the breakfast table, but now + they are discarded from the genteeler houses, and are found only in + the small taverns and farm-houses in the country." + +In spite of the vast number of inns in Philadelphia, another English +gentleman bore testimony in 1823 that he deemed the city ill-provided with +hostelries. This gentleman "put up" at the Mansion House, which was the +splendid Bingham Mansion on Third Street. He wrote:-- + + "The tavern-keepers will not receive you on any other terms except + boarded at so much a day or week; you cannot have your meals by + yourself, or at your own hours. This custom of boarding I disliked + very much. The terms are, however, very moderate, only ten dollars per + week. The table is always spread with the greatest profusion and + variety, even at breakfast, supper, and tea; all of which meals indeed + were it not for the absence of wine and soup, might be called so many + dinners." + + +[Illustration: Bill of Cromwell's Head Tavern.] + + +There lies before me a collection of twoscore old hotel bills of fare +about a half century old. They are of dates when stage-coaching had +reached its highest point of perfection, and the coaching tavern its +glory. There were railroads,--comparatively few lines, however,--but they +had not destroyed the constant use of coaches. + +These hotels were the best of their kind in the country, such as the +United States Hotel of Philadelphia, Foley's National Hotel of Norfolk, +Virginia, Union Place Hotel and New York Hotel of New York, Union Hotel of +Richmond, Virginia, American House of Springfield, Massachusetts, Dorsey's +Exchange Hotel and Barnum's City Hotel of Baltimore, Maryland, the Troy +House, the Tremont House of Boston, Massachusetts, etc. At this time all +have become hotels and houses, not a tavern nor an inn is among them. + +The menus are printed on long narrow slips of poor paper, not on +cardboard; often the names of many of the dishes are written in. They show +much excellence and variety in quality, and abundant quantity; they are, I +think, as good as hotels of similar size would offer to-day. There are +more boiled meats proportionately than would be served now, and fewer +desserts. Here is what the American House of Springfield had for its +guests on October 2, 1851: Mock-turtle soup; boiled blue-fish with oyster +sauce; boiled chickens with oyster sauce; boiled mutton with caper sauce; +boiled tongue, ham, corned beef and cabbage; boiled chickens with pork; +roast beef, lamb, chickens, veal, pork, and turkey; roast partridge; +fricasseed chicken, oyster patties, chicken pie, boiled rice, macaroni; +apple, squash, mince, custard, and peach pies; boiled custard; blanc +mange, tapioca pudding, peaches, nuts, and raisins. Vegetables were not +named; doubtless every autumnal vegetable was served. + +At the Union Place Hotel in 1850 the vegetables were mashed potatoes, +Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, boiled rice, onions, tomatoes, squash, +cauliflower, turnips, and spinach. At the United States Hotel in +Philadelphia the variety was still greater, and there were twelve entrees. +The Southern hotels offered nine entrees, and egg-plant appears among the +vegetables. The wine lists are ample; those of 1840 might be of to-day, +that is, in regard to familiar names; but the prices were different. +Mumm's champagne was two dollars and a half a quart; Ruinard and Cliquot +two dollars; the best Sauterne a dollar a quart; Rudesheimer 1811, and +Hockheimer, two dollars; clarets were higher priced, and Burgundies. +Madeiras were many in number, and high priced; Constantia (twenty years in +glass) and Diploma (forty years in wood) were six dollars a bottle. At +Barnum's Hotel there were Madeiras at ten dollars a bottle, sherries at +five, hock at six; this hotel offered thirty choice Madeiras--and these +dinners were served at two o'clock. Corkage was a dollar. + + +[Illustration: Bill of Fare of City Hotel.] + + +Certain taverns were noted for certain fare, for choice modes of cooking +special delicacies. One was resorted to for boiled trout, another for +planked shad. Travellers rode miles out of their way to have at a certain +hostelry calves-head soup, a most elaborate and tedious dish if properly +prepared, and a costly one, with its profuse wine, but as appetizing and +rich as it is difficult of making. More humble taverns with simpler +materials but good cooks had wonderful johnny-cakes, delightful waffles, +or even specially good mush and milk. Certain localities afforded certain +delicacies; salmon in one river town, and choice oysters. One landlord +raised and killed his own mutton; another prided himself on ducks. Another +cured his own hams. An old Dutch tavern was noted for rolliches and +head-cheese. + +During the eighteenth century turtle-feasts were eagerly attended--or +turtle-frolics as they were called. A travelling clergyman named Burnaby +wrote in 1759:-- + + "There are several taverns pleasantly situated upon East River, near + New York, where it is common to have these turtle-feasts. These happen + once or twice a week. Thirty or forty gentlemen and ladies meet and + dine together, drink tea in the afternoon, fish, and amuse themselves + till evening, and then return home in Italian chaises, a gentleman and + lady in each chaise. On the way there is a bridge, about three miles + distant from New York, which you always pass over as you return, + called the Kissing Bridge, where it is part of the etiquette to salute + the lady who has put herself under your protection." + +Every sea-captain who sailed to the West Indies was expected to bring home +a turtle on the return voyage for a feast to his expectant friends. A +turtle was deemed an elegant gift; usually a keg of limes accompanied the +turtle, for lime-juice was deemed the best of all "sourings" for punch. In +Newport a Guinea Coast negro named Cuffy Cockroach, the slave of Mr. +Jahleel Brenton, was deemed the prince of turtle cooks. He was lent far +and wide for these turtle-feasts, and was hired out at taverns. + +Near Philadelphia catfish suppers were popular. Mendenhall Ferry Tavern +was on the Schuylkill River about two miles below the Falls. It was +opposite a ford which landed on the east side, and from which a lane ran +up to the Ridge Turnpike. This lane still remains between the North and +South Laurel Hill cemeteries, just above the city of Philadelphia. +Previous to the Revolution the ferry was known as Garrigue's Ferry. A +cable was stretched across the stream; by it a flatboat with burdens was +drawn from side to side. The tavern was the most popular catfish-supper +tavern on the river drive. Waffles were served with the catfish. A large +Staffordshireware platter, printed in clear, dark, beautiful blue, made by +the English potter, Stubbs, shows this ferry and tavern, with its broad +piazza, and the river with its row of poplar trees. It is shown on page +93. Burnaby enjoyed the catfish-suppers as much as the turtle-feasts, but +I doubt if there was a Kissing Bridge in Philadelphia. + +Many were the good reasons that could be given to explain and justify +attendance at an old-time tavern; one was the fact that often the only +newspaper that came to town was kept therein. This dingy tavern sheet +often saw hard usage, for when it went its rounds some could scarce read +it, some but pretend to read it. One old fellow in Newburyport opened it +wide, gazed at it with interest, and cried out to his neighbor in much +excitement: "Bad news. Terrible gales, terrible gales, ships all bottom +side up," as indeed they were, in his way of holding the news sheet. + +The extent and purposes to which the tavern sheet might be applied can be +guessed from the notice written over the mantel-shelf of one taproom, +"Gentlemen learning to spell are requested to use last week's newsletter." + +The old taverns saw many rough jokes. Often there was a tavern butt on +whom all played practical jokes. These often ended in a rough fight. The +old Collin's Tavern shown on page 97 was in coaching days a famous tavern +in Naugatuck on the road between New Haven and Litchfield. One of the +hostlers at this tavern, a burly negro, was the butt of all the tavern +hangers-on, and a great source of amusement to travellers. His chief +accomplishment was "bunting." He bragged that he could with a single bunt +break down a door, overturn a carriage, or fell a horse. One night a group +of jokers promised to give him all the cheeses he could bunt through. He +bunted holes through three cheeses on the tavern porch, and then was +offered a grindstone, which he did not perceive either by his sense of +sight or feeling to be a stone until his alarmed tormentors forced him to +desist for fear he might kill himself. + +A picturesque and grotesque element of tavern life was found in those last +leaves on the tree, the few of Indian blood who lingered after the tribes +were scattered and nearly all were dead. These tawnies could not be made +as useful in the tavern yard as the shiftless and shifting negro element +that also drifted to the tavern, for the Eastern Indian never loved a +horse as did the negro, and seldom became handy in the care of horses. +These waifs of either race, and half-breeds of both races, circled around +the tavern chiefly because a few stray pennies might be earned there, and +also because within the tavern were plentiful supplies of cider and rum. + + +[Illustration: Mendenhall Ferry Platter.] + + +Almost every community had two or three of these semi-civilized Indian +residents, who performed some duties sometimes, but who often in the +summer, seized with the spirit of their fathers or the influence of their +early lives, wandered off for weeks and months, sometimes selling brooms +and baskets, sometimes reseating chairs, oftener working not, simply +tramping trustfully, sure of food whenever they asked for it. It is +curious to note how industrious, orderly Quaker and Puritan housewives +tolerated the laziness, offensiveness, and excesses of these +half-barbarians. Their uncouthness was endured when they were in health, +and when they fell sick they were cared for with somewhat the same charity +and forbearance that would be shown a naughty, unruly child. + +Often the landlady of the tavern or the mistress of the farm-house, +bustling into her kitchen in the gray dawn, would find a sodden Indian +sleeping on the floor by the fireplace, sometimes a squaw and pappoose by +his side. If the kitchen door had no latch-string out, the Indian would +crawl into the hay in the barn; but wherever he slept, he always found his +way to the kitchen in good time for an ample breakfast. + +Indian women often proved better helpers than the men. One Deb Browner +lived a severely respectable life all winter, ever ready to help in the +kitchen of the tavern if teamsters demanded meals; always on hand to help +dip candles in early winter, and make soap in early spring; and her strong +arms never tired. But when early autumn tinted the trees, and on came the +hunting season, she tore off her respectable calico gown and apron, kicked +off her shoes and stockings, and with black hair hanging wild, donned +moccasins and blanket, and literally fled to the woods for a breath of +life, for freedom. She took her flitting unseen in the night, but twice +was she noted many miles away by folk who knew her, tramping steadily +northward, bearing by a metomp of bark around her forehead a heavy burden +in a blanket. + +One Sabbath morning in May a travelling teamster saw her in her +ultra-civilized state on her way home from meeting, crowned, not only with +a discreet bonnet, but with a long green veil hanging down her back. She +was entering the tavern door to know whether they wished her to attack the +big spring washing and bleaching the following day. "Hello, Teppamoy!" he +said, staring at her, "how came you here and in them clothes?" Scowling +fiercely, she walked on in haughty silence, while the baffled teamster +told a group of tavern loafers that he had been a lumberman, and some +years there came to the camp in Maine a wild old squaw named Teppamoy who +raised the devil generally, but the constable had never caught her, and +that she "looked enough like that Mis' Browner to be her sister." + +Another half-breed Indian, old Tuggie Bannocks, lived in old Narragansett. +She was as much negro as Indian and was reputed to be a witch; she +certainly had some unusual peculiarities, the most marked being a full set +of double teeth all the way round, and an absolute refusal ever to sit on +a chair, sofa, stool, or anything that was intended to be sat upon. She +would sit on a table, or a churn, or a cradle-head, or squat on the floor; +or she would pull a drawer out of a high chest and recline on the edge of +that. It was firmly believed that in her own home she hung by her heels on +the oaken chair rail which ran around the room. She lived in the only +roofed portion of an old tumble-down house that had been at one time a +tavern, and she bragged that she could "raise" every one who had ever +stopped at that house as a guest, and often did so for company. Oh! what a +throng of shadows, some fair of face, some dark of life, would have filled +the dingy tavern at her command! I have told some incidents of her life in +my _Old Narragansett_, so will no longer keep her dusky presence here. + +Other Indian "walk-abouts," as tramps were called, lived in the vicinity +of Malden, Massachusetts; old "Moll Grush," who fiercely resented her +nickname; Deb Saco the fortune-teller, whose "counterfeit presentment" can +be seen in the East Indian Museum at Salem; Squaw Shiner, who died from +being blown off a bridge in a gale, and who was said to be "a faithful +friend, a sharp enemy, a judge of herbs, a weaver of baskets, and a lover +of rum." + +Another familiar and marked character was Sarah Boston. I have taken the +incidents of her life from _The Hundredth Town_, where it is told so +graphically. She lived on Keith Hill in Grafton, Massachusetts, an early +"praying town" of the Indians. A worn hearthstone and doorstone, +surrounded now by green grass and shadowed by dying lilacs, still show the +exact spot where once stood her humble walls, where once "her garden +smiled." + + +[Illustration: Collin's Tavern.] + + +The last of the Hassanamiscoes (a noble tribe of the Nipmuck race, first +led to Christ in 1654 by that gentle man John Eliot, the Apostle to the +Indians), she showed in her giant stature, her powerful frame, her vast +muscular power, no evidence of a debilitated race or of enfeebled +vitality. It is said she weighed over three hundred pounds. Her father was +Boston Phillips, also told of in story and tradition for his curious ways +and doings. Sarah dressed in short skirts, a man's boots and hat, a heavy +spencer (which was a man's wear in those days); and, like a true Indian, +always wore a blanket over her shoulders in winter. She was mahogany-red +of color, with coarse black hair, high cheek-bones, and all the +characteristic features of her race. Her great strength and endurance made +her the most desired farm-hand in the township to be employed in haying +time, in wall-building, or in any heavy farm work. Her fill of cider was +often her only pay for some powerful feat of strength, such as +stone-lifting or stump-pulling. At her leisure times in winter she made +and peddled baskets in true Indian fashion, and told improbable and +baseless fortunes, and she begged cider at the tavern, and drank cider +everywhere. "The more I drink the drier I am," was a favorite expression +of hers. Her insolence and power of abuse made her dreaded for domestic +service, though she freely entered every home, and sat smoking and +glowering for hours in the chimney corner of the tavern; but in those days +of few house-servants and scant "help," she often had to be endured that +she might assist the tired farm wife or landlady. + +A touch of grim humor is found in this tale of her--the more humorous +because, in spite of Apostle Eliot and her Christian forbears, she was +really a most godless old heathen. She tended with care her little garden, +whose chief ornament was a fine cherry tree bearing luscious blackhearts, +while her fellow-townsmen had only sour Morellos growing in their yards. +Each year the sons of her white neighbors, unrestrained by her threats and +entreaties, stripped her tree of its toothsome and beautiful crop before +Sarah Boston could gather it. One year the tree hung heavy with a +specially full crop; the boys watched eagerly and expectantly the glow +deepening on each branch, through tinted red to dark wine color, when one +morning the sound of a resounding axe was heard in Sarah's garden, and a +passer-by found her with powerful blows cutting down the heavily laden +tree. "Why, Sarah," he asked in surprise, "why are you cutting down your +splendid great cherry tree?"--"It shades the house," she growled; "I can't +see to read my Bible." + +A party of rollicking Yankee blades, bold with tavern liquor, pounded one +night on the wooden gate of the old Grafton burying-ground, and called out +in profane and drunken jest, "Arise, ye dead, the judgment day is come." +Suddenly from one of the old graves loomed up in the dark the gigantic +form of Sarah Boston, answering in loud voice, "Yes, Lord, I am coming." +Nearly paralyzed with fright, the drunken fellows fled, stumbling with +dismay before this terrifying and unrecognized apparition. + +Mrs. Forbes ends the story of Sarah Boston with a beautiful thought. The +old squaw now lies at rest in the same old shadowy burial place--no longer +the jest and gibe of jeering boys, the despised and drunken outcast. +Majestic with the calm dignity of death, she peacefully sleeps by the side +of her white neighbors. At the dawn of the last day may she once more +arise, and again answer with clear voice, "Yes, Lord, I am coming." + + + + +CHAPTER V + +"KILL-DEVIL" AND ITS AFFINES + + +Any account of old-time travel by stage-coach and lodging in old-time +taverns would be incomplete without frequent reference to that universal +accompaniment of travel and tavern sojourn, that most American of +comforting stimulants--rum. + +The name is doubtless American. A manuscript description of Barbadoes, +written twenty-five years after the English settlement of the island in +1651, is thus quoted in _The Academy_: "The chief fudling they make in the +island is Rumbullion, alias Kill-Divil, and this is made of sugar canes +distilled, a hot, hellish, and terrible liquor." This is the +earliest-known allusion to the liquor rum; the word is held by some +antiquaries in what seems rather a strained explanation to be the gypsy +rum, meaning potent, or mighty. The word rum was at a very early date +adopted and used as English university slang. The oldest American +reference to the word rum (meaning the liquor) which I have found is in +the act of the General Court of Massachusetts in May, 1657, prohibiting +the sale of strong liquors "whether knowne by the name of rumme, strong +water, wine, brandy, etc., etc." The traveller Josselyn wrote of it, +terming it that "cursed liquor rhum, rumbullion or kill-devil." English +sailors still call their grog rumbowling. But the word rum in this word +and in rumbooze and in rumfustian did not mean rum; it meant the gypsy +adjective powerful. Rumbooze or rambooze, distinctly a gypsy word, and an +English university drink also, is made of eggs, ale, wine, and sugar. +Rumfustian was made of a quart of strong beer, a bottle of white wine or +sherry, half a pint of gin, the yolks of twelve eggs, orange peel, nutmeg, +spices, and sugar. Rum-barge is another mixed drink of gypsy name. It will +be noted that none of these contains any rum. + +In some localities in America rum was called in early days +Barbadoes-liquor, a very natural name, occasionally also Barbadoes-brandy. +The Indians called it ocuby, or as it was spelled in the Norridgewock +tongue, ah-coobee. Many of the early white settlers called it by the same +name. Kill-devil was its most universal name, not only a slang name, but a +trading-term used in bills of sale. A description of Surinam written in +1651 says: "Rhum made from sugar-canes is called kill-devil in New +England." At thus early a date had the manufacture of rum become +associated with New England. + +The Dutch in New York called the liquor brandy-wine, and soon in that +colony wherever strong waters were named in tavern lists, the liquor was +neither aqua vitae nor gin nor brandy, but New England rum. + +It soon was cheap enough. Rev. Increase Mather, the Puritan parson, wrote, +in 1686: "It is an unhappy thing that in later years a Kind of Drink +called Rum has been common among us. They that are poor and wicked, too, +can for a penny make themselves drunk." From old account-books, bills of +lading, grocers' bills, family expenses, etc., we have the price of rum at +various dates, and find that his assertion was true. + + +[Illustration: Old Rum Bottles.] + + +In 1673 Barbadoes rum was worth 6_s._ a gallon. In 1687 its price had +vastly fallen, and New England rum sold for 1_s._ 6_d._ a gallon. In 1692 +2_s._ a gallon was the regular price. In 1711 the price was 3_s._ 3_d._ In +1757, as currency grew valueless, it was 21_s._ a gallon. In 1783 only a +little over a shilling; then it was but 8_d._ a quart. During this time +the average cost of molasses in the West Indies was 12_d._ a gallon; so, +though the distillery plant for its production was costly, it can be seen +that the profits were great. + +Burke said about 1750: "The quantity of spirits which they distill in +Boston from the molasses which they import is as surprising as the +cheapness at which they sell it, which is under two shillings a gallon; +but they are more famous for the quantity and cheapness than for the +excellency of their rum." An English traveller named Bennet wrote at the +same date of Boston society: "Madeira wine and rum punch are the liquors +they drink in common." Baron Riedesel, who commanded the foreign troops in +America during the Revolution, wrote of the New England inhabitants: "Most +of the males have a strong passion for strong drink, especially rum." +While President John Adams said caustically: "If the ancients drank wine +as our people drink rum and cider, it is no wonder we hear of so many +possessed with devils;" yet he himself, to the end of his life, always +began the day with a tankard of hard cider before breakfast. + +The Dutch were too constant beer drinkers to become with speed great rum +consumers, and they were too great lovers of gin and schnapps. But they +deprecated the sharp and intolerant prohibition of the sale of rum to the +Indians, saying: "To prohibit all strong liquor to them seems very hard +and very Turkish. Rum doth as little hurt as the Frenchman's Brandie, and +in the whole is much more wholesome." The English were fiercely abhorrent +of intemperance among the Indians, and court records abound in laws +restraining the sale of rum to the "bloudy salvages," of prosecutions and +fines of white traders who violated these laws, and of constant and fierce +punishment of the thirsty red men, who simply tried to gratify an appetite +instilled in them by the English. + +William Penn wrote to the Earl of Sutherland in 1683: "Ye Dutch, Sweed, +and English have by Brandy and Specially Rum, almost Debaucht ye Indians +all. When Drunk ye most Wretched of Spectacles. They had been very +Tractable but Rum is so dear to them." + +Rum formed the strong intoxicant of all popular tavern drinks; many are +still mixed to-day. Toddy, sling, grog, are old-time concoctions. + +A writer for the first _Galaxy_ thus parodied the poem, _I knew by the +smoke that so gracefully curled_:-- + + "I knew by the pole that's so gracefully crown'd + Beyond the old church, that a tavern was near, + And I said if there's black-strap on earth to be found, + A man who had credit might hope for it here." + +Josiah Quincy said that black-strap was a composition of which the secret, +he fervently hoped, reposed with the lost arts. Its principal ingredients +were rum and molasses, though there were other simples combined with it. +He adds, "Of all the detestable American drinks on which our inventive +genius has exercised itself, this black-strap was truly the most +outrageous." + +Casks of it stood in every country store and tavern, a salted cod-fish +hung alongside, slyly to tempt by thirst additional purchasers of +black-strap. "Calibogus," or "bogus," was unsweetened rum and beer. + +Mimbo, sometimes abbreviated to mim, was a drink made of rum and +loaf-sugar--and possibly water. The "Rates in Taverns" fixed in York +County in Pennsylvania, in 1752, for "the protecting of travellers against +the extortions of tavern-keepers," gives its price:-- + + "1 Quart Mimbo made best W. I. Rum and Loaf: 10_d._ + + 1 Quart Mimbo, made of New England Rum and Loaf: 9_d._" + +Many years ago, one bitter winter day, there stepped down from a rocking +mail-coach into the Washington Tavern in a Pennsylvania town, a dashing +young man who swaggered up to the bar and bawled out for a drink of +"Scotchem." The landlord was running here and there, talking to a score of +people and doing a score of things at once, and he called to his son, a +lubberly, countrified young fellow, to give the gentleman his Scotchem. +The boy was but a learner in the taproom, but he was a lad of few words, +so he hesitatingly mixed a glass of hot water and Scotch whiskey, which +the traveller scarcely tasted ere he roared out: "Don't you know what +Scotchem is? Apple-jack, and boiling water, and a good dash of ground +mustard. Here's a shilling to pay for it." The boy stared at the +uninviting recipe, but faithfully compounded it, when toot-toot sounded +the horn--the coach waited for no man, certainly not for a man to sip a +scalding drink--and such a drink, and off in a trice went full coach and +empty traveller. The young tapster looked dubiously at the great mug of +steaming drink; then he called to an old trapper, a town pauper, who, +crippled with rheumatism, sat ever in the warm chimney corner of the +taproom, telling stories of coons and catamounts and wolverines, and +taking such stray drops of liquid comfort as old companions or new +sympathizers might pityingly give him. "Here, Ezra," the boy said, "you +take the gentleman's drink. It's paid for." Ezra was ever thirsty and +never fastidious. He gulped down the Scotchem. "It's good," he swaggered +bravely, with eyes streaming from the scalding mustard, "an' it's tasty, +too, ef it does favor tomato ketchup." + + +[Illustration: Burgoyne Tavern.] + + +Forty years later an aged man was swung precariously out with a violent +jerk from a rampant trolley car in front of the Washington Hotel. He +wearily entered the gaudy office, and turned thence to the bar. The +barkeeper, a keen-eyed, lean old fellow of inscrutable countenance, +glanced sharply at him, pondered a moment, then opened a remote closet, +drew forth from its recess an ancient and dusty demijohn of apple-jack, +and with boiling water and a dash of mustard compounded a drink which he +placed unasked before the traveller. "Here's your Scotchem," he said +laconically. The surprised old man looked sharply around him. Outside the +window, in the stable yard, a single blasted and scaling buttonwood tree +alone remained of the stately green row whose mottled trunks and glossy +leaves once bordered the avenue. The varying grades of city streets had +entirely cut off the long porch beloved of old-time tavern loafers. The +creaking sign-board had vanished. Within was no cheerful chimney corner +and no welcoming blazing fire, but the old taproom still displayed its +raftered ceiling. The ancient traveller solemnly drank his long-paid-for +mug of Scotchem. "It's good," he said, "and tasty, if it does favor tomato +ketchup." + +A ray of memory darted across the brain of the old barkeeper, and albeit +he was not a member of the Society of Psychical Research and could not +formulate his brain impressions, yet he pondered on the curious problem +of thought transference, of forced sequence of ideas, of coincidences of +mental action resulting from similar physical conditions and influences. + +Flip was a dearly loved drink of colonial times, far more popular in +America than in England, much different in concoction in America than in +England, and much superior in America--a truly American drink. As its +chief ingredient is beer, it might be placed in the chapter on small +drink, but the large amount consumed entitles it to a place with more +rankly intoxicating liquors. + +The earliest date that I find flip named in New England is 1690. From that +year till the middle of this century there never was a day, never a minute +of the day, and scarce of the night, that some old Yankee flip drinker was +not plunging in a loggerhead, or smacking his lips over a mug of creaming +flip. + +In the _New England Almanac_ for 1704 we read under December:-- + + "The days are short, the weather's cold, + By tavern fires tales are told. + Some ask for dram when first come in, + Others with flip and bounce begin." + +American flip was made in a great pewter mug or earthen pitcher filled +two-thirds full of strong beer; sweetened with sugar, molasses, or dried +pumpkin, according to individual taste or capabilities; and flavored with +"a dash"--about a gill--of New England rum. Into this mixture was thrust +and stirred a red-hot loggerhead, made of iron and shaped like a poker, +and the seething iron made the liquor foam and bubble and mantle high, and +gave it the burnt, bitter taste so dearly loved. A famous tavern host of +Canton, Massachusetts, had a special fancy in flip. He mixed together a +pint of cream, four eggs, and four pounds of sugar, and kept this on hand. +When a mug of flip was called for, he filled a quart mug two-thirds full +of bitter beer, added four great spoonfuls of his creamy compound, a gill +of rum, and thrust in the loggerhead. If a fresh egg were beaten into the +mixture, the froth poured over the top of the mug, and the drink was +called "bellows-top." + + +[Illustration: Happy Farmer Pitcher.] + + +Let me not fail to speak of the splendid glasses in which flip was often +served--I mean the great glass tumblers without handles which, under the +name of flip glasses, still are found in New England homes. They are vast +drinking-vessels, sometimes holding three or four quarts apiece, and speak +to us distinctly of the unlimited bibulous capacities of our ancestors. +They are eagerly sought for by glass and china collectors, and are among +the prettiest and most interesting of old-time relics. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Hancock Tavern.] + + +English flip is not so simple nor so original nor so good a drink as +American flip. It might be anything but flip, since it is compounded in a +saucepan, and knows naught of the distinctive branding of flip, the +seething loggerhead. If it contained no spirits, it was called "egg-hot." + +A rule for flip which seems to combine the good points of the American and +English methods, uses ale instead of home-brewed. It may be given "in the +words of the Publican who made it":-- + + "Keep grated Ginger and Nutmeg with a fine dried Lemon Peel rubbed + together in a Mortar. To make a quart of Flip: Put the Ale on the Fire + to warm, and beat up three or four Eggs with four ounces of moist + Sugar, a teaspoonful of grated Nutmeg or Ginger, and a Quartern of + good old Rum or Brandy. When the Ale is near to boil, put it into one + pitcher, and the Rum and Eggs, etc., into another: turn it from one + Pitcher to another till it is as smooth as cream. To heat plunge in + the red hot Loggerhead or Poker. This quantity is styled One Yard of + Flannel." + +A quartern is a quarter of a gill, which is about the "dash" of rum. + +No flip was more widely known and more respected than the famous brew of +Abbott's Tavern at Holden, Massachusetts. This house, built in 1763, and +kept by three generations of Abbotts, never wavered in the quality of its +flip. It is said to have been famous from the Atlantic to the Pacific--and +few stage-coaches or travellers ever passed that door without adding to +its praises and thereafter spreading its reputation. It is sad to add that +I don't know exactly how it was made. A bill still existing tells its +price in Revolutionary days; other items show its relative valuation:-- + + "Mug New England Flip 9_d._ + " West India " 11_d._ + Lodging per night 3_d._ + Pot luck per meal 8_d._ + Boarding commons Men 4_s._ 8_d._ + " " Weomen 2_s._" + +This is the only tavern bill I have ever seen in which nice distinctions +were made in boarding men and women. I am glad to know that the "weomen" +traveller in those days had 2_s._ 8_d._ of daily advantage over the men. + +Other names for the hospital loggerhead were flip-dog and hottle. The +loggerhead was as much a part of the chimney furniture of an old-time New +England tavern and farm-house as the bellows or andirons. In all taverns +and many hospitable homes it was constantly kept warm in the ashes, ready +for speedy heating in a bed of hot coals, to burn a mug of fresh flip for +every visitor or passer by. Cider could be used instead of beer, if beer +could not be had. Some wise old flip tasters preferred cider to beer. +Every tavern bill of the eighteenth century was punctuated with entries of +flip. John Adams said if you spent the evening in a tavern, you found it +full of people drinking drams of flip, carousing, and swearing. The old +taprooms were certainly cheerful and inviting gathering-places; where mine +host sat behind his cagelike counter surrounded by cans and bottles and +glasses, jars of whole spices and whole loaves of sugar; where an +inspiring row of barrels of New England rum, hard cider, and beer ranged +in rivalry at an end of the room, and + + "Where dozed a fire of beechen logs that bred + Strange fancies in its embers golden-red, + And nursed the loggerhead, whose hissing dip, + Timed by wise instinct, creamed the bowl of flip." + + +[Illustration: Flip Glasses, Loggerhead, and Toddy Stick.] + + +These fine lines of Lowell's seem to idealize the homely flip and the +loggerhead as we love to idealize the customs of our forbears. Many a +reader of them, inspired by the picture, has heated an iron poker or +flip-dog and brewed and drunk a mug of flip. I did so not long ago, mixing +carefully by a rule for flip recommended and recorded and used by General +Putnam--Old Put--in the Revolution. I had the Revolutionary receipt and I +had the Revolutionary loggerhead, and I had the old-time ingredients, but +alas, I had neither the tastes nor the digestion of my Revolutionary +sires, and the indescribable scorched and puckering bitterness of taste +and pungency of smell of that rank compound which was flip, will serve for +some time in my memory as an antidote for any overweening longing for the +good old times. + +The toddy stick, beloved for the welcome ringing music it made on the +sides of glass tumblers, was used to stir up toddy and other sweetened +drinks. + +It was a stick six or eight inches long, with a knob at one end, or +flattened out at the end so it would readily crush the loaf sugar used in +the drink. The egg-nog stick was split at one end, and a cross-piece of +wood was set firmly in. It was a crude egg-beater. Whirled rapidly around, +while the upright stick was held firmly between the palms of the hands, it +was a grateful, graceful, and inviting machine in the hands of skilful +landlords of old. + +Another universal and potent colonial drink was punch. It came to the +English colonies in America from the English colonies in India. To the +Orientals we owe punch--as many other good things. The word is from the +Hindustani _panch_, five, referring to the five ingredients then used in +the drink, namely: tea, arrack, sugar, lemons, water. + +In 1675 one Tryer drank punch in India and, like the poor thing that he +was, basely libelled it as an enervating liquor. The English took very +quickly to the new drink, as they did to everything else in India, and +soon the word appeared in English ballads, showing that punch was well +known. + +Englishmen did not use without change the punch-bowls of India, but +invented an exceptionally elegant form known by the name of Monteith. It +was called after a man of fashion who was marked and remarkable for +wearing a scalloped coat. In the _Art of Cookery_ we find reference to him +and the Monteith punch bowl:-- + + "New things produce new words, and so Monteith + Has by one vessel saved himself from death." + + +[Illustration: Porcelain Monteith.] + + +Monteiths seem to have come into fashion about 1697. The rim was scalloped +like its namesake's coat, or cut in battlements, thus forming +indentations, in which a punch ladle and lemon strainer and tall +wine-glasses were hung on their sides, the foot out. The rim was usually +separate from the bowl, and was lifted off with the glasses and ladle and +strainer, for the punch to be brewed in the bowl. When the punch was duly +finished, the ornamental rim was replaced. A porcelain imitation of a +Monteith is here shown, which was made in China for an American +ship-owner, doubtless from a silver model. + +Punch became popular in New England just as it did in old England, in +fact, wherever English-speaking sea rovers could tell of the new drink. In +1682 John Winthrop wrote of the sale of a punch bowl in Boston, and in +1686 John Dunton told of more than one noble bowl of punch in New England. + +Every buffet of people of good station in prosperous times soon had a +punch bowl. Every dinner was prefaced by a bowl of punch passed from hand +to hand, while the liquor was drunk from the bowl. Double and "thribble" +bowls of punch were served in taverns; these held two and three quarts +each. + +To show the amount of punch drunk at a minister's ordination in New +England in 1785, I will state that the eighty people attending in the +morning had thirty bowls of punch before going to meeting; and the +sixty-eight who had dinner disposed of forty-four bowls of punch, eighteen +bottles of wine, eight bowls of brandy, and a quantity of cherry rum. + +Punch was popular in Virginia, it was popular in New York, it was popular +in Pennsylvania. William Black recorded in his diary in 1744 that in +Philadelphia he was given cider and punch for lunch; rum and brandy before +dinner; punch, Madeira, port, and sherry at dinner; punch and liqueurs +with the ladies; and wine, spirit, and punch till bedtime; all in punch +bowls big enough for a goose to swim in. + +In 1757 S. M. of Boston, who was doubtless Samuel Mather, the son of +Cotton Mather, sent to Sir Harry Frankland, the hero of the New England +romance of Agnes Surriage, a box of lemons with these lines:-- + + "You know from Eastern India came + The skill of making punch as did the name. + And as the name consists of letters five, + By five ingredients is it kept alive. + To purest water sugar must be joined, + With these the grateful acid is combined. + Some any sours they get contented use, + But men of taste do that from Tagus choose. + When now these three are mixed with care + Then added be of spirit a small share. + And that you may the drink quite perfect see, + Atop the musky nut must grated be." + + +[Illustration: Cincinnati Punch Bowl.] + + +From the accounts that have come down to us, the "spirits a small share" +of the Puritan Mather's punch receipt was seldom adhered to in New England +punches. + +The importation to England and America of lemons, oranges, and limes for +use as punch "sowrings," as they were called, was an important part of the +West Indian and Portuguese trade. The juices of lemons, oranges, limes, +and pineapples were all used in punches, and were imported in demijohns +and bottles. The appetizing advertisements of J. Crosby, a Boston fruit +importer, are frequent for many years in New England newspapers. Here is +one from the _Salem Gazette_ in 1741:-- + + "Extraordinary good and very fresh Orange juice which some of the very + best Punch Tasters prefer to Lemmon, at one dollar a gallon. Also very + good Lime Juice and Shrub to put into Punch at the Basket of Lemmons, + J. Crosby, Lemmon Trader." + +I don't know whether the punch tasters referred to were professional punch +mixers or whether it was simply a term applied to persons of well-known +experience and judgment in punch-drinking. + +In Salem, New Jersey, in 1729, tavern prices were regulated by the Court. +They were thus:-- + + "A rub of punch made with double-refined sugar + and one and a half gills of rum 9_d._ + + A rub of punch made with single refined sugar + and one and a half gills of rum 8_d._ + + A rub made of Muscovado sugar and one and a + half gills of rum 7_d._ + + A quart of flipp made with a pint of rum 9_d._ + + A pint of wine 1_s._ + + A gill of rum 3_d._ + + A quart of strong beer 4_d._ + + A gill of brandy or cordial 6_d._ + + A quart of metheglin 9_d._ + + A quart of cider royal 8_d._ + + A quart of cider 4_d._" + +Punches were many of name, scores of different ones were given by drink +compounders, both amateur and professional. Punches were named for +persons, for places; for taverns and hosts; for bar-tenders and +stage-coach drivers; for unusual ingredients or romantic incidents. +Sometimes honor was conferred by naming the punch for the person; +sometimes the punch was the only honor the original ever had. In these +punches all kinds of flavoring and spices were used, and all the strong +liquors of the world, all the spirits, wines, liqueurs, drops, distilled +waters and essences--but seldom and scant malt liquors, if it were truly +punch. + +With regard to the proper amounts of all these various fluids to be used +in composition opinions always differed. Many advised a light hand with +cordials, some disliked spices; others wished a plentiful amount of lemon +juice, others wished tea. In respect of the proportions of two important +and much-discussed ingredients, old-time landlords apparently heeded +directions similar to those I once heard given impressively by an old +Irish ecclesiastic of high office: "Shtop! shtop! ye are not commincin' +right and in due ordher! Ye musthn't iver put your whiskey or rum foorst +in your punch-bowl and thin add wather; for if ye do, ivery dhrop of +wather ye put in is just cruel spoilin' of the punch; but--foorst--put +some wather in the bowl--some, I say, since in conscience ye must--thin +pour in the rum; and sure ye can aisily parcaive that ivery dhrop ye put +in is afther makin' the punch betther and betther." + +Charles Lamb tells in his _Popular Fallacies_ of "Bully Dawson kicked by +half the town and half the town kicked by Bully Dawson." This Bully Dawson +was a famous punch brewer; his rule was precisely like that of a famous +New England landlord, and is worth choosing among a score of rules:-- + + "The man who sees, does, or thinks of anything else while he is making + Punch may as well look for the Northwest Passage on Mutton Hill. A man + can never make good punch unless he is satisfied, nay positive, that + no man breathing can make better. I can and do make good Punch, + because I do nothing else, and this is my way of doing it. I retire to + a solitary corner with my ingredients ready sorted; they are as + follows, and I mix them in the order they are here written. Sugar, + twelve tolerable lumps; hot water, one pint; lemons, two, the juice + and peel; old Jamaica rum, two gills; brandy, one gill; porter or + stout, half a gill; arrack, a slight dash. I allow myself five minutes + to make a bowl in the foregoing proportions, carefully stirring the + mixture as I furnish the ingredients until it actually foams; and then + Kangaroos! how beautiful it is!" + +With this nectar and a toast we may fitly close this chapter. May the +grass grow lightly o'er the grave of Bully Dawson, and weigh like lead on +the half the town that kicked him! + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +SMALL DRINK + + +"Under this tearme of small-drink," wrote an old chronicler, "do I endow +such drinks as are of comfort, to quench an honest thirst, not to heat the +brain, as one man hath ale, another cider, another metheglin, and one +sack." Under this title I also place such tavern and home drinks of +colonial times as were not deemed vastly intoxicating; though New England +cider might well be ranged very close to New England rum in intoxicating +powers. + +The American colonists were not enthusiastic water drinkers, and they soon +imported malt and established breweries to make the familiar ale and beer +of old England. The Dutch patroons found brewing a profitable business in +New York, and private families in all the colonies built home brew-houses +and planted barley and hops. + +In Virginia a makeshift ale was made from maize as early as 1620. George +Thorpe wrote that it was a good drink, much preferable to English beer. +Governor Berkeley wrote of Virginians a century later:-- + + "Their small-drink is either wine or water, beer, milk and water, or + water alone. Their richer sort generally brew their small-beer with + malt, which they have from England, though barley grows there very + well; but for the want of convenience of malt-houses, the inhabitants + take no care to sow it. The poorer sort brew their beer with molasses + and bran; with Indian corn malted with drying in a stove: with + persimmons dried in a cake and baked; with potatoes with the green + stalks of Indian corn cut small and bruised, with pompions, with the + Jerusalem artichoke which some people plant purposely for that use, + but this is the least esteemed." + +Similar beers were made in New England. The court records are full of +enactments to encourage beer-brewing. They had not learned that liberty to +brew, when and as each citizen pleased, would prove the best stimulus. +Much personal encouragement was also given. The President of Harvard +College did not disdain to write to the court on behalf of "Sister +Bradish," that she might be "encouraged and countenanced" in her baking of +bread and brewing and selling of penny beer. And he adds in testimony that +"such is her art, way, and skill that shee doth vend such comfortable +penniworths for the relief of all that send unto her as elsewhere they can +seldom meet with." College students were permitted to buy of her to a +certain amount; and with the light of some contemporary evidence as to the +quality of the college commons we can believe they needed very +"comfortable penniworths." + +Some New England taverns were famous for their spruce, birch, and +sassafras beer, boiled with scores of roots and herbs, with birch, +spruce, or sassafras bark, with pumpkin and apple parings, with sweetening +of molasses or maple syrup, or beet tops and other makeshifts. A colonial +song writer boasted-- + + "Oh, we can make liquor to sweeten our lips + Of pumpkins, of parsnips, of walnut-tree chips." + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Amherst Hotel.] + + +According to Diodorus Siculus, the ancient Britons drank on festive +occasions liquors made from honey, apples, and barley, viz., mead, cider, +and ale. The Celts drank mead and cider--natural drinks within the +capabilities of manufacture by slightly civilized nations; for wild honey +and wild apples could be found everywhere. Ale indicated agriculture and a +more advanced civilization. + +Mead, or metheglin, of fermented honey, herbs, and water, has been made by +every race and tribe on this globe, living where there was enough +vegetation to cherish bees. It had been a universal drink in England, but +was somewhat in disuse when this country was settled. + +Harrison wrote:-- + + "The Welsh make no less account of metheglin than the Greeks did of + their ambrosia or nectar, which for the pleasantness thereof was + supposed to be such as the gods themselves did delight in. There is a + kind of swishswash made also in Essex, and divers other places, with + honeycomb and water, which the homely country-wives putting some + pepper and a little other spice among, called mead: very good in mine + opinion for such as love to be loose-bodied at large, or a little + eased of the cough. Otherwise it differeth so much from true metheglin + as chalk from cheese; and one of the best things that I know belonging + thereto is, that they spend but little labour and less cost in making + of the same, and therefore no great loss if it were never occupied." + +Metheglin was one of the drinks of the American colonists. It was a +favorite drink in Kentucky till well into this century. As early as 1633, +the Piscataqua planters of New Hampshire, in their list of values which +they set in furs,--the currency of the colony,--made "6 Gallon Mathaglin +equal 2 Lb Beaver." In Virginia, whole plantations of honey locust were +set out to supply metheglin. The long beans of the locust were ground and +mixed with honey herbs and water, and fermented. + +In a letter written from Virginia in 1649, it is told of "an ancient +planter of twenty-five years standing," that he had good store of bees and +"made excellent good Matheglin, a pleasant and strong drink." + +Oldmixon, in _History of Carolina_ (1708), says, "the bees swarm there six +or seven times a year, and the metheglin made there is as good as Malaga +sack," which may be taken _cum grano salis_. + +In New England drinking habits soon underwent a marked and speedy change. +English grains did not thrive well those first years of settlement, and +were costly to import, so New Englanders soon drifted from beer-drinking +to cider-drinking. The many apple orchards planted first by Endicott and +Blackstone in Massachusetts, and Wolcott in Connecticut, and seen in a few +decades on every prosperous and thrifty farm, soon gave forth their +bountiful yield of juicy fruit. Perhaps this change in drinking habits was +indirectly the result of the influence of the New England climate. Cider +seemed more fitted for sharp New England air than ale. Cider was soon so +cheap and plentiful throughout the colony that all could have their fill. +Josselyn said in 1670: "I have had at the tap-houses of Boston an +ale-quart of cider spiced and sweetened with sugar for a groat." + + +[Illustration: Eagle Tavern and Sign-board, Newton, New Hampshire.] + + +All the colonists drank cider, old and young, and in all +places,--funerals, weddings, ordainings, vestry-meetings, church-raisings, +etc. Infants in arms drank mulled hard cider at night, a beverage which +would kill a modern babe. It was supplied to students at Harvard and Yale +colleges at dinner and bever, being passed in two quart tankards from hand +to hand down the commons table. Old men began the day with a quart or +more of hard cider before breakfast. Delicate women drank hard cider. All +laborers in the field drank it in great draughts that were often liberally +fortified with drams of New England rum. The apple crop was so wholly +devoted to the manufacture of cider that in the days of temperance reform +at the beginning of this century, Washingtonian zealots cut down great +orchards of full-bearing trees, not conceiving any adequate use of the +fruit for any purpose save cider-making. + +A friend--envious and emulous of the detective work so minutely described +by Conan Doyle--was driving last summer on an old New England road +entirely unfamiliar to him. He suddenly turned to the stage-driver by his +side and, pointing to a house alongside the road, said, "The man who lives +there is a drunkard."--"Why, yes," answered the driver in surprise, "do +you know him?"--"No," said the traveller, "I never saw him and don't know +his name, but he's a drunkard and his father was before him, and his +grandfather."--"It's true," answered the driver, with much astonishment; +"how could you tell?"--"Well, there is a large orchard of very old apple +trees round that house, while all his neighbors, even when the houses are +old, have younger orchards. When the 'Washingtonian or Temperance +Movement' reached this town, the owner of this place was too confirmed a +drunkard to reform and cut down his apple trees as his neighbors did, and +he kept on at his hard cider and cider brandy, and his son and grandson +grew up to be drunkards after him." Later inquiry in the town proved the +truth of the amateur detective's guesswork. + +Cider was tediously made at first by pounding the apples in wooden +mortars; the pomace was afterward pressed in baskets. Then rude mills with +a spring board and heavy maul crushed the apples in a hollowed log. Then +presses for cider-making began to be set up about the year 1650. + +Apples were at that time six to eight shillings a bushel; cider 1_s._ +8_d._ a gallon--as high-priced as New England rum a century later. + +Connecticut cider soon became specially famous. Roger Williams in 1660 +says John Winthrop's loving letter to him was as grateful as "a cup of +your Connecticut cider." By 1679 it was cheap enough, ten shillings a +barrel; and in the year 1700, about seven shillings only. It had then +replaced beer in nearly all localities in daily diet; yet at the +Commencement dinner at Harvard in 1703, four barrels of beer were served +and but one of cider, with eighteen gallons of wine. + +In 1721 one Massachusetts village of forty families made three thousand +barrels of cider, and Judge Joseph Wilder of Lancaster, Massachusetts, +made six hundred and sixteen barrels in the year 1728. + +Bennett, an English traveller, writing of Boston in the year 1740, says +that "the generality of the people with their victuals" drank cider, which +was plentiful and good at three shillings a barrel. It took a large amount +of cider to supply a family when all drank, and drank freely. Ministers +often stored forty barrels of cider for winter use. + + +[Illustration: Cider Pitcher and Cups.] + + +By the closing years of the seventeenth century nearly all Virginia +plantations had an apple orchard. Colonel Fitzhugh had twenty-five hundred +apple trees. So quickly did they mature, that six years after the scions +were planted, they bore fruit. Many varieties were common, such as +russets, costards, pippins, mains, marigolds, kings, and batchelors. So +great was the demand for cider in the South that apple orchards were +deemed the most desirable leasing property. Cider never reached a higher +price, however, than two shillings and a half in Virginia during the +seventeenth century. Thus it could be found in the house of every Maryland +and Virginia planter. It was supplied to the local courts during their +times of sitting. Many households used it in large quantity instead of +beer or metheglin, storing many barrels for everyday use. + +At a very early date apple trees were set out in New York, and cultivated +with much care and much success. Nowhere else in America, says Dankers, +the Labadist traveller, had he seen such fine apples. The names of the +Newton pippin, the Kingston spitzenburgh, the Poughkeepsie swaar apple, +the red streak, guelderleng, and others of well-known quality, show New +York's attention to apple-raising. Kalm, the Swedist naturalist, spoke of +the splendid apple orchards which he saw throughout New York in 1749, and +told of the use of the horse press in the Hudson Valley for making cider. +Cider soon rivalled in domestic use in this province the beer of the +Fatherland. It was constantly used during the winter season, and, diluted +with water, sweetened and flavored with nutmeg, made a grateful summer +drink. Combined with rum, it formed many of the most popular and +intoxicating colonial drinks, of which "stone-wall" was the most potent. +Cider-royal was made by boiling four barrels of cider into one barrel. P. +T. Barnum said cider-spirits was called "gumption." + +A New Hampshire settler carried on his back for twenty miles to his home a +load of young apple trees. They thrived and grew apace, and his first crop +was eight bushels. From these, he proudly recounted, he made one barrel of +cider, one barrel of water-cider, and "one barrel of charming good drink." +Water-cider, or ciderkin, was a very weak, slightly cidery beverage, which +was made by pouring water over the solid dregs left after the cider had +been pressed from the pomace, and pressing it over again. It was deemed +especially suitable for children to drink; sometimes a little molasses and +ginger was added to it. + +A very mild tavern drink was beverige; its concoction varied in different +localities. Sometimes beverige was water-cider or ciderkin; at other times +cider, spices, and water. Water flavored with molasses and ginger was +called beverige, and is a summer drink for New England country-folk +to-day. + + +[Illustration: Parson's Tavern.] + + +John Hammond wrote of Virginia in 1656 in his _Leah and Rachel_:-- + + "Beare is indeed in some places constantly drunken, in other some + nothing but Water or Milk, and Water or Beverige; and that is where + the good-wives (if I may so call them) are negligent and idle; for it + is not want of Corn to make Malt with, for the Country affords enough, + but because they are slothful and careless; and I hope this Item will + shame them out of these humours; that they will be adjudged by their + drinke, what kind of Housewives they are." + +Vinegar and water--a drink of the ancient Roman soldiery--was also called +beverige. Dr. Rush wrote a pamphlet recommending its use by harvest +laborers. + +Switchel was a similar drink, strengthened with a dash of rum. Ebulum was +the juice of elder and juniper berries, spiced and sweetened. Perry was +made from pears, and peachy from peaches. + +A terrible drink is said to have been popular in Salem. It is difficult to +decide which was worse, the drink or its name. It was sour household beer +simmered in a kettle, sweetened with molasses, filled with crumbs of +"ryneinjun" bread, and drunk piping hot; its name was +whistle-belly-vengeance, or whip-belly-vengeance. This name was not a +Yankee vulgarism, but a well-known old English term. Bickerdyke says small +beer was rightly stigmatized by this name. Dean Swift in his _Polite +Conversations_ gives this smart dialogue:-- + + "_Hostess_ (offering ale to Sir John Linger). I never taste + malt-liquor, but they say ours is well-hopp'd. + + _Sir John._ Hopp'd! why if it had hopp'd a little further, it would + have hopp'd into the river. + + _Hostess._ I was told ours was very strong. + + _Sir John._ Yes! strong of the water. I believe the brewer forgot the + malt, or the river was too near him. Faith! it is more + whip-belly-vengeance; he that drinks most has the worst share." + +This would hardly seem a word for "polite conversation," though it was +certainly a term in common use. Its vulgarity is in keen contrast to the +name of another "small drink," a name which brings to the mental vision +thoughts of the good cheer, the genial hospitality, the joy of living, of +Elizabethan days. A black letter copy of the _Loyal Garland_, a collection +of songs of the seventeenth century, thus names the drink in this gay +song:-- + + "To the Tavern lets away! + There have I a Mistress got, + Cloystered in a Pottle Pot; + Plump and bounding, soft and fair, + Bucksome, sweet and debonair, + And they call her _Sack_, my Dear!" + +It is vain to enter here into a discussion of exactly what sack was, since +so much has been written about it. The name was certainly applied to sweet +wines from many places. A contemporary authority, Gervayse Markham, says +in The _English Housewife_, "Your best Sackes are of Seres in Spain, your +smaller of Galicia or Portugall: your strong Sackes are of the islands of +the Canaries." + +Sack was, therefore, a special make of the strong, dry, sweet, +light-colored wines of the sherry family, such as come from the South, +from Portugal, Spain, and the Canary Islands. By the seventeenth century +the name was applied to all sweet wines of this class, as distinguished +from Rhenish wines on one hand and red wines on the other. Many do not +wish to acknowledge that sack was sherry, but there was little distinction +between them. Sherris-sack, named by Shakespeare, was practically also +sherry. + +Sack was so cheap that it could be used by all classes. From an original +license granted by Sir Walter Raleigh, in 1584, to one Bradshaw to keep a +tavern we learn that sack was then worth two shillings a gallon. + + +[Illustration: Toby Fillpots.] + + +Perhaps the most famous use of sack was in the making of sack-posset, that +drink of brides, of grooms, of wedding and christening parties. A rhymed +rule for sack-posset found its way into many collections, and into English +and American newspapers. It is said to have been written by Sir Fleetwood +Fletcher. It was thus printed in the _New York Gazette_ of February 13, +1744:-- + + "A Receipt for all young Ladies that are going to be Married. + To make a SACK-POSSET + + From famed Barbadoes on the Western Main + Fetch sugar half a pound; fetch sack from Spain + A pint; and from the Eastern Indian Coast + Nutmeg, the glory of our Northern toast. + O'er flaming coals together let them heat + Till the all-conquering sack dissolves the sweet. + O'er such another fire set eggs, twice ten, + New born from crowing cock and speckled hen; + Stir them with steady hand, and conscience pricking + To see the untimely fate of twenty chicken. + From shining shelf take down your brazen skillet, + A quart of milk from gentle cow will fill it. + When boiled and cooked, put milk and sack to egg, + Unite them firmly like the triple League. + Then covered close, together let them dwell + Till Miss twice sings: _You must not kiss and tell_. + Each lad and lass snatch up their murdering spoon, + And fall on fiercely like a starved dragoon." + +Sack was drunk in America during the first half-century of colonial life. +It was frequently imported to Virginia; and all the early instructions for +the voyage cross-seas, such as Governor Winthrop's to his wife and those +of the Plymouth Plantations, urge the shipping of sack for the sailors. +Even in Judge Sewall's day, a century after the planting of Boston, +sack-posset was drunk at Puritan weddings, but a psalm and a prayer made +it properly solemn. Judge Sewall wrote of a Boston wedding:-- + + "There was a pretty deal of company present. Many young gentlemen and + young gentlewomen. Mr. Noyes made a speech, said love was the sugar + to sweeten every condition in the marriage state. After the + Sack-Posset sang 45th Psalm from 8th verse to end." + + +[Illustration: Flip Glasses and Nutmeg Holders.] + + +Canary soon displaced sack in popular affection, and many varieties of +closely allied wines were imported. Sir Edmund Andros named in his excise +list "Fayal wines, or any other wines of the Western Islands, Madeira, +Malaga, Canary, Tent, and Alcant." Claret was not popular. The consumption +of sweet wines was astonishing, and the quality was exceeding good. Spiced +wines were much sold at taverns, sangaree and mulled wines. Brigham's +Tavern at Westborough had a simple recipe for mulled wine: simply a quart +of boiling hot Madeira, half a pint of boiling water, six eggs beaten to a +froth, all sweetened and spiced. Nutmeg was the favorite flavoring, and +nutmegs gilded and beribboned were an esteemed gift. The importation of +them was in early days wholly controlled by the Dutch. High livers--_bon +vivants_--carried nutmegs in their pockets, fashionable dames also. One +of the prettiest trinkets of colonial times is the dainty nutmeg holder, +of wrought silver or Battersea enamel, just large enough to hold a single +nutmeg. The inside of the cover is pierced or corrugated to form a grater. +The ones now before me, both a century and a half old, when opened exhale +a strong aroma of nutmeg, though it is many a year since they have been +used. With a nutmeg in a pocket holder, the exquisite traveller, whether +man or woman, could be sure of a dainty spiced wine flavored to taste; +"atop the musky nut could grated be," even in the most remote tavern, for +wine was everywhere to be found, but nutmegs were a luxury. Negus, a washy +warm wine-punch invented in Queen Anne's day by Colonel Negus, was also +improved by a flavoring of nutmeg. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +SIGNS AND SYMBOLS + + +Before named streets with numbered houses came into existence, and when +few persons could read, painted and carved sign-boards and figures were +more useful than they are to-day; and not only innkeepers, but men of all +trades and callings sought for signs that either for quaintness, +appropriateness, or costliness would attract the eyes of customers and +visitors, and fix in their memory the exact locality of the advertiser. +Signs were painted and carved in wood; they were carved in stone; modelled +in terra-cotta and plaster; painted on tiles; wrought of various metals; +and even were made of animals' heads stuffed. + +As education progressed, signs were less needed, and when thoroughfares +were named and sign-posts set up and houses numbered, the use of business +signs vanished. They lingered sometimes on account of their humor, +sometimes because they were a guarantee of an established business, but +chiefly because people were used to them. + +The shops in Boston were known by sign-boards. In 1761 Daniel Parker, +goldsmith, was at the Golden Ball, William Whitmore, grocer, at the Seven +Stars, Susannah Foster was "next the Great Cross," and John Loring, +chemist, at the Great Trees. One hatter had a "Hatt & Beaver," another a +"Hatt & Helmit"; butter was sold at the "Blue Glove" and "Brazen Head"; +dry-goods at the "Sign of the Stays" and at the "Wheat Sheaf"; rum at the +"Golden Keys"; pewter ware at the "Crown and Beehive"; knives at the "Sign +of the Crown and Razor." John Crosby, for many years a noted lemon trader, +had as a sign a basket of lemons. In front of a nautical instrument store +on the corner of State and Broad streets, Boston, still stands a quaint +wooden figure of an ancient naval officer resplendent in his blue coat, +cocked hat, short breeches, stockings, and buckles, holding in his hand a +quadrant. The old fellow has stood in this place, continually taking +observations of the sun, for upwards of one hundred years. It will be seen +that these signs were often incongruous and non-significant, both as to +their relation to the business they indicated, and in the association of +objects which they depicted. + +A rhyme printed in the _British Apollo_ in 1710 notes the curious +combination of names on London sign-boards:-- + + "I'm amazed at the signs + As I pass through the town; + To see the odd mixture + A Magpie and Crown, + The Whale and the Crow, + The Razor and Hen, + The Leg and Seven Stars, + The Axe and the Bottle, + The Sun and the Lute, + The Eagle and Child, + The Shovel and Boot." + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Stratton Tavern.] + + +Addison wrote nearly two centuries ago on the absurdity and incongruity of +these sign-boards, in _The Spectator_ of April 2, 1710. He says, +advocating a censorship of sign-boards:-- + + "Our streets are filled with blue boars, black swans, and red lions; + not to mention flying pigs, and hogs in armour, with many other + creatures more extraordinary than any in the deserts of Africa. My + first task therefore should be like that of Hercules, to clear the + city from monsters. In the second place I would forbid that creatures + of jarring and incongruous natures should be joined together in the + same sign; such as the bell and the neat's tongue; the dog and the + gridiron. The fox and goose may be supposed to have met, but what have + the fox and the seven stars to do together? And when did the lamb and + dolphin ever meet, except upon a sign-post? As for the cat and fiddle + there is a conceit in it, and therefore I do not intend that anything + I have said should affect it. I must, however, observe to you upon + this subject, that it is usual for a young tradesman, at his first + setting up, to add to his sign that of the master whom he has served; + as the husband, after marriage, gives a place to his mistress's arms + in his own coat. This I take to have given rise to many of those + absurdities which are committed over our heads; and as, I am informed, + first occasioned the three nuns and a hare, which we see so frequently + joined together." + +Many of the apparently meaningless names on tavern signs come through the +familiar corruptions of generations of use, through alterations both by +the dialect of speakers and by the successive mistakes of ignorant +sign-painters. Thus "The Bag o' Nails," a favorite sign, was originally +"The Bacchanalians." The familiar "Cat and Wheel" was the "Catherine +Wheel," and still earlier "St. Catherine's Wheel," in allusion to the +saint and her martyrdom. The "Goat and Compass" was the motto "God +encompasseth us." "The Pig and Carrot" was the "Pique et Carreau" (the +spade and diamond in playing cards). Addison thus explains the "Bell +Savage," a common sign in England, usually portrayed by an Indian standing +beside a bell. "I was formerly very much puzzled upon the conceit of it, +till I accidentally fell into the reading of an old romance translated out +of the French, which gives an account of a very beautiful woman who was +found in a wilderness, and is called in French, La Belle Sauvage, and is +everywhere translated by our countrymen the Bell Savage." + +"The Bull and Mouth" celebrates in corrupt wording the victory of Henry +VIII. in "Boulougne Mouth" or Harbor. In London the Bull and Mouth Inn was +a famous coach office, and the sign-board bore these lines:-- + + "Milo the Cretonian + An ox slew with his fist, + And ate it up at one meal, + Ye Gods! what a glorious twist." + +Twist was the old cant term for appetite. + +The universal use of sign-boards furnished employment to many painters of +inferior rank, and occasionally even to great artists, who, either as a +freak of genius, to win a wager, to crown a carouse, or perhaps to earn +with ease a needed sum, painted a sign-board. At the head of this list is +Hogarth. Richard Wilson painted "The Three Loggerheads" for an ale-house +in North Wales. George Morland has several assigned to him: "The Goat in +Boots," "The White Lion," "The Cricketers." Ibbetson paid his bill to +Landlord Burkett after a sketching and fishing excursion by a sign with +one pale and wan face and one equally rubicund. The accompanying lines +read:-- + + "Thou mortal man that livest by bread, + What makes thy face to look so red? + Thou silly fop that looks so pale, + 'Tis red with Tommy Burkett's ale." + +Gerome, Cox, Harlow, and Millais swell the list of English sign-painters, +while Holbein, Correggio, Watteau, Gerriault, and Horace Vernet make a +noble company. The splendid "Young Bull" of Paul Potter, in the museum of +The Hague, is said to have been painted for a butcher's sign. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Three Crowns Tavern.] + + +Benjamin West painted many tavern signs in the vicinity of Philadelphia, +among them in 1771 that of the Three Crowns, a noted hostelry that stood +on the King's Highway in Salisbury Township, Lancaster County. This +neighborhood was partly settled by English emigrants, and the old tavern +was kept by a Tory of the deepest dye. The sign-board still bears the +marks of the hostile bullets of the Continental Army, and the proprietor +came near sharing the bullets with the sign. This Three Crowns was removed +in 1816 to the Waterloo Tavern, kept by a relative of the old landlord. +The Waterloo Tavern was originally the Bull's Head, and was kept by a +Revolutionary officer. Both sides of the Three Crowns sign-board are shown +on page 143. By tradition West also painted the sign-board of the old Hat +Tavern shown on page 147. This was kept by Widow Caldwell in Leacock +Township, Lancaster County, on the old Philadelphia road. + +The Bull's Head Inn of Philadelphia had a sign suited to its title; it was +sold in the middle of this century to an Englishman as the work of +Benjamin West. The inn stood in Strawberry Alley, and West once lived in +the alley; and so also did Bernard Wilton, a painter and glazier, in the +days when the inn was young and had no sign-board. And as the glazier sat +one day in the taproom, a bull ran foaming into the yard and thrust his +head with a roar in the tavern window. The glazier had a ready wit, and +quoth he: "This means something. This bull thrust his head in as a sign, +so it shall be the sign of the inn, and bring luck and custom forever." I +think those were his words; at any rate, those were the deeds. + +West also painted the "Ale Bearers." One side had a man holding a glass of +ale and looking through it. The other side showed two brewers' porters +carrying an ale cask slung with case hooks on a pole--as was the way of +ale porters at that day. It is said that West was offered five hundred +dollars for a red lion sign-board he had painted in his youth. In the +vicinity of Philadelphia several taverns claimed to have sign-boards +painted by the Peales and by Gilbert Stuart, and an artist named Hicks is +said to have contributed some wonderful specimens to this field of art. + + +[Illustration: Browne's Hall, Danvers, Massachusetts, 1743.] + + +General Wolfe was a favorite name and figure for pre-Revolutionary taverns +and sign-boards. There was a Wolfe Tavern near Faneuil Hall in Boston; and +the faded sign-board of the Wolfe Tavern of Brooklyn, Connecticut, is +shown on page 211 as it swung when General Israel Putnam was the tavern +landlord. These figures of the English officer were usually removed as +obnoxious after the Declaration of Independence. But the Wolfe Tavern at +Newburyport continued to swing the old sign "in the very centre of the +place to be an insult to this truly republican town." This sign is shown +in its spruce freshness on page 180. It is a great contrast to "Old Put's" +Wolfe sign-board. + +A Philadelphia tavern with a clumsy name, though a significant one, was +the Federal Convention of 1787 Inn. I cannot imagine any band of tavern +tipplers or jovial roisterers ever meeting there, but it was doubtless +used for political gatherings. It had a most pretentious sign painted by +Matthew Pratt, a pupil of Benjamin West. It was said that his signs were +painted in a style that should have given them place in a picture gallery, +had it not been that the galleries of those days were few, and artists +found their most lucrative employment in painting signs for taverns and +stores. This inn kept first by a man named Hanna, then by George Poppal, +was at 178 South Street, near Fifth Street. The sign was a painting of the +National Convention which met May 14, 1787, in the State House or +Independence Hall to frame the Constitution of the United States. George +Washington was president, Mayor William Jackson was secretary. The +convention met in the East Room, which was distinctly and correctly +represented on the sign-board; its wainscoting, the Ionic pilasters +supporting a full entablature beneath a coved ceiling, all were taken down +by a "Commissioner of Repairs," and all now are happily reproduced and +restored. On one side of the sign-board Washington was seen seated under +the panel bearing the arms of Pennsylvania. The dignified Judge Wilson +occupied the chair, and Franklin sat near. All the heads were portraits. +On both sides of the sign-board were the lines:-- + + "These thirty-eight men together have agreed + That better times to us shall very soon succeed." + +Watson, writing in 1857, tells of the end of this historic sign-board:-- + + "This invaluable sign, which should have been copied by some eminent + artist and engraved for posterity, was bandied about like the Casa + Santa of Lorretto from post to pillar till it located at South Street + near the Old Theatre. The figures are now completely obliterated by a + heavy coat of brown paint on which is lettered Fed. Con. 1787." + + +[Illustration: Hat Tavern and Sign-board.] + + +This offence against historic decency can be added to the many other +crimes against good taste which lie heavily on the account of the middle +of the nineteenth century. The _fin du siecle_ has many evils which are +daily rehearsed to us; but the middle of the century was an era of bad +taste, dulness, affected and melancholic sentimentality and +commonplaceness in dress, architecture, household furnishings, +literature, society, and art--let us turn from it with haste. It is +equalled only in some aspects by some of the decades of dulness in England +in the reign of George III. + +Another sign-board painted by Woodside is described in Philadelphia +newspapers of August, 1820:-- + + "UNION HOTEL + + "Samuel E. Warwick respectfully informs his friends and the public + generally that he has opened a house of Entertainment at the northeast + corner of Seventh and Cedar Streets, and has copied for his sign Mr. + Binn's beautiful copperplate engraving of the Declaration of + Independence, by that justly celebrated artist, Mr. Woodside:-- + + "Whate'er may tend to soothe the soul below, + To dry the tear and blunt the shaft of woe, + To drown the ills that discompose the mind, + All those who drink at Warwick's Inn shall find." + +The Revolutionary War developed originality in American tavern signs. The +"King's Arms," "King's Head," "St. George and the Dragon," and other +British symbols gave place to rampant American eagles and portraits of +George Washington. Every town had a Washington Tavern, with varied +Washington sign-boards. That of the Washington Hotel at Salem, +Massachusetts, is on page 63. + +The landlord of the Washington Inn at Holmesburg, Pennsylvania, one James +Carson, issued this address in 1816:-- + + "Ye good and virtuous Americans--come! whether business or pleasure be + your object--call and be refreshed at the sign of Washington. Here + money and merit will secure you respect and honor, and a hearty + welcome to choice liquors and to sumptuous fare. Is it cold? You shall + find a comfortable fire. Is it warm? Sweet repose under a cool and + grassy shade. In short, every exertion shall be made to grace the sign + of the hero and statesman who was first in war, first in peace, and + first in the hearts of his countrymen." + +On Beach Street a tavern, with the name Washington Crossing the Delaware, +had as a sign-board a copy of Sully's famous picture. This must have been +a costly luxury. A similar one used as a bridge sign-board is on page 239. + +About 1840 one Washington Tavern in Philadelphia, on Second and Lombard +streets, displayed a sign which was a novelty at that time. It was what +was known as a "slat-sign"; perpendicular strips or slats were so set on +the sign that one view or picture was shown upon taking a full front view, +a second by looking at it from one side, a third from the other. The +portrait of Washington and other appropriate pictures were thus shown. + +Other patriotic designs became common,--the Patriotic Brothers having a +sign representing the Temple of Liberty with weapons of war. On the steps +of the temple a soldier and sailor grasp hands, with the motto, "Where +Liberty dwells, there is my country." + +A very interesting sign is in the possession of the Connecticut Historical +Society. It is shown on page 28. This sign is unusual in that it is +carved in good outline on one side with the British coat of arms, and on +the other a full-rigged ship under full sail, flying the Union Jack. At +the top on each side are the letters U. A. H., and 1766. It is enclosed in +a heavy frame, with heavy hangers of iron keyed to suspend from a beam. + +The initials U. A. H. stand for Uriah and Ann Hayden, who kept the tavern +for which this board was the sign. It stood near the river in Essex, then +Pettspung Parish, in the town of Saybrook, Connecticut. The sign was +relegated to a garret when the British lion and unicorn were in such +disrepute in the new land of freedom, and, being forgotten, was thus +preserved to our own day. + +An old sign shown on pages 151 and 153 swung for nearly a century by the +roadside before a house called Bissell's Tavern, at Bissell's Ferry, East +Windsor, Connecticut. Originally it bore an elaborate design of thirteen +interlacing rings, each having in its centre the representation of some +tree or plant peculiar to the state it designated. These interlacing links +surrounded the profile portrait of George Washington. Above this was the +legend, "The 13 United States." Beneath this, "Entertainment by David +Bissell, A.D. 1777." Ten years later the words David Bissell were painted +out and E. Wolcott substituted. The date 1787 was also placed in both +upper corners of the board. In 1801 the sign and house came to Joseph +Phelps. A new design was given: a copy of the first gold eagle of 1795, +and on the other the reverse side of same coin and the name J. Phelps. In +1816 J. Pelton bought the Ferry Tavern, and he painted out all of J. +Phelps's name save the initials, which were his own. He hung the sign on +the limb of a big elm tree over the Ferry road. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Bissell's Tavern.] + + +Arad Stratton, who kept the old tavern at Northfield Farms, had a splendid +eagle on his sign-board, which is shown on page 140. This tavern built in +1724 was pulled down in 1820. + +William Pitt's face and figure frequently appeared on sign-boards. One is +shown on page 156 which hung at the door of the Pitt Tavern in Lancaster, +Pennsylvania. This tavern was kept from 1808 to 1838 by Landlord Henry +Diffenbaugh. The sign-board was painted by an artist named Eicholtz, a +pupil of Sully and of Gilbert Stuart, whose work he imitated and copied. + +A small, single-storied ancient tavern used to stand near the old Swedes' +church. Over the door was a sign with an old hen with a brood of chickens; +an eagle hovered over them with a crown in its beak; the inscription was: +"May the Wings of Liberty cover the Chickens of Freedom, and pluck the +Crown from the Enemy's Head." This was a high flight of fancy, and the Hen +and Chickens was doubtless vastly admired in those days of high sentiment +and patriotism after the Revolution. + +Lafayette and Franklin showed their fame in many a sign-board. When the +sign of the Franklin Inn was set up in Philadelphia in 1774, it bore this +couplet:-- + + "Come view your patriot father! and your friend, + And toast to Freedom and to slavery's end." + +John Hancock was another popular patriot seen on tavern signs. The +sign-board which hung for many years before John Duggan's hostelry, the +Hancock Tavern in Corn Court, is shown on page 110. This portrait crudely +resembles one of Hancock, by Copley, and is said to have been painted by +order of Hancock's admirer, Landlord Duggan. At Hancock's death it was +draped with mourning emblems. It swung for many years over the narrow +alley shown on page 182, till it blew down in a heavy wind and killed a +citizen. Then it was nailed to the wall, and thereby injured. It was +preserved in Lexington Memorial Hall, but has recently been returned to +Boston. + +It was natural that horses, coaches, and sporting subjects should be +favorites for tavern signs. A very spirited one is that of the Perkins +Inn, at Hopkinton, New Hampshire, dated 1786, and showing horse, rider, +and hounds. The Williams Tavern of Centrebrook, Connecticut, stood on the +old Hartford and Saybrook turnpike. One side of its swinging sign +displayed a coach and horses. It is shown on page 400. The other, on page +396, portrays a well-fed gentleman seated at a well-spread table sedately +drinking a glass of wine. Sign-boards with figures of horses were common, +such as that of the Hays Tavern, page 65; of the Conkey Tavern, page 190; +of Mowry's Inn, page 57; and of the Pembroke Tavern, page 217. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Bissell's Tavern.] + + +Of course beasts and birds furnished many symbols for sign painters. On +the site where the Northfield Seminary buildings now stand, stood until +1880 the old Doolittle Tavern. It was on the main-travelled road from +Connecticut through Massachusetts to southern New Hampshire and Vermont. +Its sign-board, dated 1781, is on page 158. It bore a large rabbit and two +miniature pine trees. + +Joseph Cutter, a Revolutionary soldier, kept an inn in Jaffray, New +Hampshire, on the "Brattleboro' Pike" from Boston. His sign-board bore the +figure of a demure fox. It is shown on page 412. + +Indian chiefs were a favorite subject for sign-boards; three are here +shown, one on page 203, from the Stickney Tavern of Concord, New +Hampshire; another on page 382, from the Wells Tavern at Greenfield +Meadows, Massachusetts; a third on page 310, from the Tarleton Inn of +Haverhill, New Hampshire. + +Two Beehive Taverns, one in Philadelphia, one in Frankford, each bore the +sign-board a beehive with busy bees. The motto on the former, "By Industry +We Thrive," was scarcely so appropriate as-- + + "Here in this hive we're all alive, + Good liquor makes us funny. + If you are dry, step in and try + The flavor of our honey." + +The sign-board of Walker's Tavern, a famous house of entertainment in +Charlestown, New Hampshire, is shown on page 162. It bears a beehive and +bees. This sign is now owned by the Worcester Society of Antiquity. + +The Washington Hotel, at the corner of Sixth and Carpenter streets, had +several landlords, and in 1822 became the New Theatre Hotel. Woodside +painted a handsome sign, bearing a portrait of the famous old actor and +theatrical manager, William Warren, as Falstaff, with the inscription, +"Shall I not take mine ease at my inn?" A writer in the _Despatch_ says +the tavern did not prosper, though its rooms were let for meetings of +clubs, societies, audits, and legal proceedings. It was leased by Warren +himself in 1830, and still the tavern decayed. He left it and died, and +the fine sign-board faded, and was succeeded by the plain lettering, +Fallstaff Inn, and the appropriate motto, chosen by Warren, gave place to +"Bring me a cup of sack, Hal." The place was a "horrible old rattletrap," +and was soon and deservedly demolished. + +The Raleigh Inn, in Third Street, showed the story of the servant throwing +water over the nobleman at the sight of smoke issuing from his mouth. This +was a favorite tale of the day, and the portrayal of it may be seen in +many an old-time picture-book for children. + +On Thirteenth Street, near Locust, was a sign copied from a London one:-- + + "I William McDermott lives here, + I sells good porter, ale, and beer, + I've made my sign a little wider + To let you know I sell good cider." + +On the Germantown road the Woodman Tavern had a sign-board with a woodman, +axe, and the following lines:-- + + "In Freedom's happy land + My task of duty done, + In Mirth's light-hearted band + Why not the lowly woodman one?" + +The Yellow Cottage was a well-known Philadelphia tavern, half citified, +half countrified. Its sign read:-- + + "Rove not from sign to sign, but stop in here, + Where naught exceeds the prospect but the beer." + +These lines were a paraphrase of the witty and celebrated sign, said to +have been written by Dean Swift for a barber who kept a public house:-- + + "Rove not from pole to pole, but stop in here, + Where naught excels the shaving but the beer." + +Sir Walter Scott, in his _Fortunes of Nigel_, gives this version as a +chapter motto:-- + + "Rove not from pole to pole--the man lives here, + Whose razor's only equalled by his beer." + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of William Pitt Tavern.] + + +Entering a large double gate, the passer-by who was seduced by this sign +of the Yellow Cottage walked up a grand walk to this cottage, which was +surrounded by a brick pavement about five feet wide which was closely +bordered in front and sides by lilac bushes and some shrubs called +"Washington's bowers." These concealed all the lower story on three sides +except the front entrance. If you could pass the bar, you could go out the +back entrance to a porch which extended across the back of the house. Here +card-playing, dominos, etc., constantly went on; thence down a sloping +field, at the end of the field, was an exit. On one side of this field +was a stable, chicken-house, and pens which always held for view a fat hog +or ox or some unusual natural object. Shooting parties were held here; +quoit-playing, axe-throwing, weight-lifting, etc.; and it had also a +charming view of the river. + +Biblical names were not common on tavern sign-boards. "Adam and Eveses +Garden" in Philadelphia was not a Garden of Eden. This was and is a common +title in England. Noah's Ark seems somewhat inappropriate. The Angel had +originally a religious significance. The Bible and Peacock seems less +appropriate than the Bible and Key, for divination by Bible and key has +ever been as universal in America as in England. + +In Philadelphia, on Shippen Street, between Third and Fourth, was a tavern +sign representing a sailor and a woman, separated by these two lines:-- + + "The sea-worn sailor here will find + The porter good, the treatment kind." + +No doubt thirsty tars found this sign most attractive; more so, I am sure, +than the pretentious sign of Lebanon Tavern, corner of Tenth and South +streets. This sign was painted by the artist Pratt. On one side was +Neptune in his chariot, surrounded by Tritons; underneath the lines:-- + + "Neptune with his triumphant host + Commands the ocean to be silent, + Smooths the surface of its waters, + And universal calm succeeds." + +On the other side a marine view of ships, etc., with the lines:-- + + "Now calm at sea and peace on land + Have blest our Continental stores, + Our fleets are ready, at command, + To sway and curb contending powers." + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Doolittle Tavern.] + + +As the sign purveyor dropped easily into verse, albeit of the blankest +type, these lines surmounted the door:-- + + "Of the waters of Lebanon + Good cheer, good chocolate, and tea, + With kind entertainment + By John Kennedy." + +Chocolate and tea seem but dull bait to lure the sailor of that day. The +Three Jolly Sailors showed their cheerful faces on a sign-board +appropriately found on Water Street. One of the tars was busy strapping a +block, and the legend below read:-- + + "Brother Sailor! please to stop + And lend a hand to strap this block; + For if you do not stop or call, + I cannot strap this block at all." + +In Castleford, England, the Three Jolly Sailors has a different rhyme:-- + + "Coil up your ropes and anchor here, + Till better weather does appear." + +In Boston the Ship in Distress was a copy of a famous sign-board which +hung in Brighton, England, a century ago. Both had the appealing lines:-- + + "With sorrows I am compassed round, + Pray lend a hand, my ship's aground." + +Tippling-houses in both Philadelphia and Boston had a sign-board painted +with a tree, a bird, a ship, and a can of beer, and these quaint lines, an +excellent tavern rhyme:-- + + "This is the tree that never grew, + This is the bird that never flew, + This is the ship that never sailed, + This is the mug that never failed." + +Other Philadelphia sign-boards of especial allurement to sailors were "The +Wounded Tar," "The Top-Gallant," "The Brig and Snow," "The Jolly Sailors," +"The Two Sloops," "The Boatswain and Call," and "The Dolphin." The +sign-board of the Poore Tavern (page 405) shows a ship under full sail. + +In a small Philadelphia alley running from Spruce Street to Lock Street, +was a sign-board lettered "A Man Full of Trouble." It bore also a picture +of a man on whose arm a woman was leaning, and a monkey was perched on his +shoulder, and a bird, apparently a parrot, stood on his hand. The woman +carried a bandbox, on the top of which sat a cat. This sign has a long +history. It was copied from the famous sign-board of an old ale-house +still in Oxford Street, London; (it is here shown, opposite this page). +It is said to have been painted by Hogarth; at any rate, it is valued +enough to be specified in the lease of the premises as one of the +fixtures. The name by which it is known in London is The Man Loaded with +Mischief. The bird is a magpie, and the woman holds a glass of gin in her +hand. In the background at one side is a pot-house, at the other a +pawnbroker's shop. The engraving of this sign is signed "Drawn by +Experience, Engraved by Sorrow," and the rhyme:-- + + "A monkey, a magpie, and a wife + Is the true emblem of strife." + +A similar sign is in Norwich, another in Blewbury, England. One inn is +called The Mischief Inn, the other The Load of Mischief. Still another, at +Cambridge, England, showed the man and woman fastened together with a +chain and padlock. A kindred French sign-board is called _Le trio de +Malice_ (the trio being a cat, woman, and monkey). + +An old Philadelphia tavern on Sixth Street, below Catherine Street, had +the curious name, The Four Alls. The meaning was explained by the painting +on the sign, which was a very large one. It represented a palace, on the +steps of which stood a king, an officer in uniform, a clergyman in gown +and bands, and a laborer in plain dress. The satirical inscription read:-- + + "1. King--I govern All. + 2. General--I fight for All. + 3. Minister--I pray for All. + 4. Laborer--And I pay for All." + + +[Illustration: A Man Loaded with Mischief.] + + +This is an old historic sign, which may still be seen in the streets of +Malta. In Holland, two hundred years ago, there were four figures,--a +soldier, parson, lawyer, and farmer. The three said their "All" just as in +the Philadelphia sign-board, but the farmer answered:-- + + "Of gy vecht, of gy bidt, of gy pleyt, + Ik bin de boer die de eyeren layt." + +"You may fight, you may pay, you may plead, but I am the farmer who lays +the eggs,"--that is, finds the money for it all. Sometimes the English +sign-painters changed the lettering to The Four Awls. There are several +epigrams using the word "all"; one, an address to Janus I., is in the +Ashmolean Mss. It begins:-- + + "The Lords craved all, + The Queen granted all, + The Ladies of Honour ruled all," etc. + +A famous old English sign was "The Man Making His Way Through the World." +The design was a terrestrial globe with the head and shoulders of a naked +man breaking out like a chick out of an egg-shell; his nakedness betokened +extreme poverty. In Holland a similar sign reads, "Thus far have I got +through the World." One in England shows the head coming out in Russia, +while the feet stick out at South America. The man says, "Help me through +this World." This sign is sometimes called the Struggling Man. It was +displayed in front of a well-known Philadelphia inn, and also on one at +the South End in Boston. The story was told by a Revolutionary officer +that during that war a forlorn regiment of Continentals halted after a +weary march from Providence, in front of the Boston tavern and the +Struggling Man. The soldiers were broken with fatigue, covered with mud, +and ravenous for food and drink. One glared angrily at the sign-board and +at once roared out with derision: "'List, durn ye! 'List, and you'll get +through this world fast enough!" + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Walker's Tavern.] + + +Both in Philadelphia and Boston was found the sign known as the Good +Woman, the Quiet Woman, or the Silent Woman, which was a woman without a +head. The sign, originally intended to refer to some saint who had met +death by losing her head, was naturally too tempting and apparent a joke +to be overlooked. New Chelmsford in England had until recently a +sign-board with the Good Woman on one side and King Henry VIII. on the +other. In this case the Good Woman may have been Anne Boleyn. + +A popular Philadelphia inn was the one which bore the sign of the "Golden +Lion," standing on its hind legs. Lions fell into disrepute at the time of +the Revolution, and the gallant animal that was a lion in its youth became +the Yellow Cat in middle and old age. It was a vastly popular cat, +however, vending beer and porter of highest repute. It was kept in ancient +fashion unchanged until its antiquity made it an object alike of dignity +and interest--in fact, until our own day. With its worn and sanded floor, +tables unpainted, and snowy with daily scrubbing; with tallow candles when +gas lighted every "saloon" in the city; with the old-time bar fenced up to +the ceiling with rails, it had an old age as golden as its youth. Susan, +an ancient maiden of prehistoric age, fetched up the beer in old pewter +mugs on a pewter platter, and presented a pretzel with each mug. + +The great variety of tavern-signs in Philadelphia was noted even by +Englishmen, who were certainly acquainted with variety and number at home. +The Englishman Palmer wrote during his visit in 1818:-- + + "We observed several curious tavern signs in Philadelphia and on the + roadside, among others Noah's Ark; a variety of Apostles; Bunyan's + Pilgrim; a cock on a lion's back, crowing, with Liberty issuing from + his beak; naval engagements in which the British are in a desperate + situation; the most common signs are eagles, heads of public + characters, Indian Kings, &c." + +There had been so many sign-boards used by business firms in Philadelphia, +that they had been declared public nuisances, and in 1770 all sign-boards, +save those of innkeepers, had been ordered to be taken down and removed. + +From a famous old hostelry in Dedham, swung from the years 1658 to 1730 +the sign-board of Lieutenant Joshua Fisher, surveyor, apothecary, +innholder, and officer of "ye trayne band," and his son and successor, +Captain Fisher--also Joshua. About 1735 one of the latter's daughters +married Dr. Nathaniel Ames, who had already started that remarkable series +of annual publications, familiar now to antiquaries, and once to all New +England householders, as _Ames' Almanack_. The first of these interesting +almanacs had appeared in 1726, when Ames was only seventeen years old, but +he was assisted by his astronomer father. After the death successively of +his wife and infant child, the doctor entered into a famous lawsuit with +the family of his sisters-in-law for the tenure of the land and inn; and +the turning-point of the suit hung upon the settlement of the term "next +of kin." + +By ancient common law and English law real property never ascended, that +is, was never inherited by a father or mother from a child; but in absence +of husband, wife, or lineal descendant passed on to the "next of kin," +which might be a distant cousin. By general interpretation the Province +Laws substituted the so-called civilian method of counting kinship, by +which the father could inherit. + +Twice defeated in the courts, Dr. Ames boldly pushed his case in 1748 +before the "Superior Court of Judicature, etc., of the Province of +Massachusetts Bay," himself preparing unaided both case and argument, and +he triumphed. By the Province Laws he was given full possession of the +property inherited by his infant child from the mother--thus the inn +became Ames Tavern. + + +[Illustration: Drawing for Ames' Sign-board.] + + +Nervous in temperament, excited by his victory, indignant at the injustice +and loss to which he had been subjected; he was loudly intolerant of the +law's delay, and especially of the failure of Chief Justice Dudley and his +associate Lynde, to unite with the three other judges, Saltonstall, +Sewall, and Cushing, in the verdict; and in anger and derision he had +painted for him and his tavern a new and famous sign, and he hung it in +front of the tavern in caricature of the court. + +The sign is gone long ago; but in that entertaining book, _The Almanacks +of Nathaniel Ames 1726-1775_, the author, Sam Briggs, gives an +illustration of the painting from a drawing found among Dr. Ames' papers +after his death, a copy of which is shown on the foregoing page. On the +original sketch these words are written:-- + + "Sir:--I wish could have some talk on y{e} above subject, being the + bearer waits for an answer shal only observe M{r} Greenwood thinks + y{t} can not be done under L40 Old Tenor." + +This was a good price to pay to lampoon the court, for the sign +represented the whole court sitting in state in big wigs with an open book +before them entitled _Province Laws_. The dissenting judges, Dudley and +Lynde, were painted with their backs turned to the book. The court, +hearing of the offending sign-board, sent the sheriff from Boston to bring +it before them. Dr. Ames was in Boston at the time, heard of the order, +rode with speed to Dedham in advance of the sheriff, removed the sign, and +it is said had allowance of time sufficient to put up a board for the +reception of the officer with this legend, "A wicked and adulterous +generation seeketh after a sign, but there shall no sign be given it." + +The old road house, after this episode in its history, became more famous +than ever before; and The Almanac was a convenient method of its +advertisement, as it was of its distance from other taverns. In the issue +of 1751 is this notice:-- + + "ADVERTISEMENT. + + "These are to signify to all Persons that travel the great Post-Road + South West from Boston That I keep a house of Public Entertainment + Eleven Miles from Boston at the sign of the Sun. If they want + Refreshment and see Cause to be my Guests, they shall be well + entertained at a reasonable rate. + + N. AMES." + +Here lived the almanac-maker for fifteen years; here were born by a second +wife his famous sons, Dr. Nathaniel Ames and Hon. Fisher Ames. Here in +1774 his successor in matrimony and tavern-keeping, one Richard Woodward, +kept open house in September, 1774, for the famous Suffolk Convention, +where was chosen the committee that drafted the first resolutions in favor +of trying the issue with Great Britain with the sword. My +great-grandfather was a member of this convention at Ames Tavern, and it +has always seemed to me that this was the birthplace of the War for +Independence. During the Revolution, as in the French and Indian War, the +tavern doors swung open with constant excitement and interest. Washington, +Lafayette, Hancock, Adams, and scores of other patriots sat and drank +within its walls. It stood through another war, that of 1812, and in 1817 +its historic walls were levelled in the dust. + +The tavern sign-board was not necessarily or universally one of the +elaborate emblems I have described. Often it was only a board painted +legibly with the tavern name. It might be attached to a wooden arm +projecting from the tavern or a post; it might be hung from a near-by +tree. Often a wrought-iron arm, shaped like a fire crane, held the +sign-board. The ponderous wooden sign of the Barre Hotel hung from a +substantial frame erected on the green in front of the tavern. Two upright +poles about twenty feet long were set five feet apart, with a weather-vane +on top of each pole. A bar stretched from pole to pole and held the +sign-board. A drawing of it from an old print is shown on page 280. + + +[Illustration: Buckhorn Tavern.] + + +Rarely signs were hung from a beam stretched across the road on upright +posts. It is said there are twenty-five such still remaining and now in +use in England. A friend saw one at the village of Barley in Herts, the +Fox and Hounds. The figures were cut out of plank and nailed to the +cross-beam, the fox escaping into the thatch of the inn with hound in +full cry and huntsmen following. Silhouetted against the sky, it showed +well its inequality of outline. A similar sign of a livery stable in +Baltimore shows a row of galloping horses. + +Sometimes animals' heads or skins were nailed on a board and used as a +sign. Ox horns and deer horns were set over the door. The Buck Horn Tavern +with its pair of branching buck horns is shown on the opposite page. This +tavern stood on Broadway and Twenty-second Street, New York. + +The proverb "Good wine needs no bush" refers to the ancient sign for a +tavern, a green bush set on a pole or nailed to the tavern door. This was +obsolete, even in colonial days; but in Western mining camps and towns in +modern days this emblem has been used to point out the barroom or grocery +whiskey barrel. The name "Green Bush" was never a favorite in America. +There was a Green Bush Tavern in Barrington, Rhode Island, with a +sign-board painted with a green tree. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THE TAVERN IN WAR + + +The tavern has ever played an important part in social, political, and +military life, has helped to make history. From the earliest days when men +gathered to talk over the terrors of Indian warfare; through the renewal +of these fears in the French and Indian War; before and after the glories +of Louisburg; and through all the anxious but steadfast years preceding +and during the Revolution, these gatherings were held in the ordinaries or +taverns. What a scene took place in the Brookfield tavern, the town being +then called Quawbaug! The only ordinary, that of Goodman Ayers, was a +garrison house as well as tavern, and the sturdy landlord was commander of +the train-band. When the outbreak called King Philip's War took place, +things looked black for Quawbaug. Hostile and treacherous Indians set upon +the little frontier settlement, and the frightened families retreated from +their scarcely cleared farms to the tavern. Many of the men were killed +and wounded at the beginning of the fray, but there were eighty-two +persons, men, women, and children, shut up within the tavern walls, and +soon there were four more, for two women gave birth to twins. The +Indians, "like so many wild bulls," says a witness, shot into the house, +piled up hay and wood against the walls, and set it on fire. But the men +sallied out and quenched the flames. The next night the savages renewed +their attack. + + "They used several stratagems to fire us, namely, by wild-fire on + cotton and linen rags with brimstone in them, which rags they tied to + the piles of their arrows sharp for the purpose and shot them to the + roof of our house after they had set them on fire, which would have + much endangered in the burning thereof, had we not used means by + cutting holes through the roof and otherwise to beat the said arrows + down, and God being pleased to prosper our endeavours therein." + +Again they piled hay and flax against the house and fired it; again the +brave Englishmen went forth and put out the flames. Then the wily Indians +loaded a cart with inflammable material and thrust it down the hill to the +tavern. But the Lord sent a rain for the salvation of His people, and when +all were exhausted with the smoke, the August heat, the fumes of +brimstone, and the burning powder, relief came in a body of men from +Groton and one brought by a brave young man who had made his way by +stealth from the besieged tavern to Boston. Many of the old garrison +houses of New England had, as taverns, a peaceful end of their days. + +A centre of events, a centre of alarms, the tavern in many a large city +saw the most thrilling acts in our Revolutionary struggle which took place +off the battlefields. The tavern was the rendezvous for patriotic bands +who listened to the stirring words of American rebels, and mixed dark +treason to King George with every bowl of punch they drank. The story of +our War for Independence could not be dissociated from the old taverns, +they are a part of our national history; and those which still stand are +among our most interesting Revolutionary relics. + +John Adams left us a good contemporaneous picture of the first notes of +dissatisfaction such as were heard in every tavern, in every town, in the +years which were leading up to the Revolution. He wrote:-- + + "Within the course of the year, before the meeting of Congress in + 1774, on a journey to some of our circuit courts in Massachusetts, I + stopped one night at a tavern in Shrewsbury about forty miles from + Boston, and as I was cold and wet, I sat down at a good fire in the + bar-room to dry my great-coat and saddle-bags, till a fire could be + made in my chamber. There presently came in, one after another, half a + dozen, or half a score substantial yeomen of the neighborhood, who, + sitting down to the fire after lighting their pipes, began a lively + conversation on politics. As I believed I was unknown to all of them, + I sat in total silence to hear them. One said, 'The people of Boston + are distracted.' Another answered, 'No wonder the people of Boston are + distracted. Oppression will make wise men mad.' A third said, 'What + would you say if a fellow should come to your house and tell you he + was come to take a list of your cattle, that Parliament might tax you + for them at so much a head? And how should you feel if he was to go + and break open your barn or take down your oxen, cows, horses, and + sheep?' 'What should I say?' replied the first, 'I would knock him in + the head.' 'Well,' said a fourth, 'if Parliament can take away Mr. + Hancock's wharf and Mr. Rowe's wharf, they can take away your barn and + my house.' After much more reasoning in this style, a fifth, who had + as yet been silent, broke out: 'Well, it's high time for us to rebel; + we must rebel some time or other, and we had better rebel now than at + any time to come. If we put it off for ten or twenty years, and let + them go on as they have begun, they will get a strong party among us, + and plague us a great deal more than they can now.'" + + +[Illustration: Old North Bridge, Concord, Mass.] + + +These discussions soon brought decisions, and by 1768 the Sons of Liberty +were organized and were holding their meetings, explaining conditions, and +advocating union and action. They adopted the name given by Colonel Barre +to the enemies of passive obedience in America. Soon scores of towns in +the colonies had their liberty trees or liberty poles. + +These patriots grew amazingly bold in proclaiming their dissatisfaction +with the Crown and their allegiance to their new nation. The landlord of +the tavern at York, Maine, speedily set up a sign-board bearing a portrait +of Pitt and the words, "Entertainment for the Sons of Liberty." Young +women formed into companies called Daughters of Liberty, pledged to wear +homespun and drink no tea. I have told the story of feminine revolt at +length in my book _Colonial Dames and Goodwives_. John Adams glowed with +enthusiasm when he heard two Worcester girls sing the "New Liberty Song," +in a Worcester tavern. In 1768 a Liberty Tree was dedicated in +Providence, Rhode Island. It was a vast elm which stood in the dooryard of +the Olney Tavern on Constitution Hill. On a platform built in its branches +about twenty feet from the ground, stood the orator of the day, and in an +eloquent discourse dedicated the tree to the cause of Liberty. In the +trying years that followed, the wise fathers and young enthusiasts of +Providence gathered under its branches for counsel. The most famous of +these trees of patriotism was the Liberty Tree of Boston. It stood near a +tavern of the same name at the junction of Essex and Washington streets, +then known as Hanover Square. The name was given in 1765 at a patriotic +celebration in honor of the expected repeal of the Stamp Act. Even before +that time effigies of Lord Oliver and a boot for Lord Bute, placards and +mottoes had hung from its branches. A metal plate was soon attached to it, +bearing this legend, "This tree was planted in 1646 and pruned by order of +the Sons of Liberty February 14, 1766." Under the tree and at the tavern +met all patriot bands, until the tree was cut down by the roistering +British soldiers and supplied them with fourteen cords of firewood. The +tavern stood till 1833. A picture of the Boston Liberty Tree and Tavern of +the same name is shown on the opposite page. It is from an old drawing. + + +[Illustration: Boston Liberty Tree and Tavern.] + + +The fourteenth of August, 1769, was a merry day in Boston and vicinity. +The Sons of Liberty, after assembling at the Liberty Tree in Boston, all +adjourned for dinner at the Liberty Tree Tavern, or Robinson's Tavern in +Dorchester. Tables were spread in an adjoining field under a tent, and +over three hundred people sat down to an abundant feast, which included +three barbecued pigs. Speeches and songs inspired and livened the diners. +The last toast given was, "Strong halters, firm blocks, and sharp axes to +all such as deserve them." At five o'clock the Boston Sons, headed by John +Hancock in his chariot, started for home. Although fourteen toasts were +given in Boston and forty-five in Dorchester, John Adams says in his Diary +that "to the honor of the Sons I did not see one person intoxicated or +near it." + + +[Illustration: Stavers Inn.] + + +The tavern in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, known by the sign of Earl of +Halifax, was regarded by Portsmouth patriots as a hotbed of Tories. It +had always been the resort of Government officials; and in 1775, the +meeting of these laced and ruffled gentlemen became most obnoxious to the +Sons of Liberty, and soon a mob gathered in front of the tavern, and the +irate landlord heard the blows of an axe cutting down his Earl of Halifax +sign-post. Seizing an axe he thrust it into the hands of one of his +powerful negro slaves, telling him to go and threaten the chopper of the +sign-post. Excited by the riotous scene, the black man, without a word, at +once dealt a powerful blow upon the head of a man named Noble, who was +wielding the encroaching axe. Noble lived forty years after this blow, but +never had his reason. This terrible assault of course enraged the mob, and +a general assault was made on the tavern; windows and doors were broken; +Landlord Stavers fled on horseback, and the terrified black man was found +in a cistern in the tavern cellar, up to his chin in water. When Stavers +returned, he was seized by the Committee of Safety and thrust into Exeter +jail. He took the oath of allegiance and returned to his battered house. +He would not reglaze the broken windows, but boarded them up, and it is +said that many a distinguished group of officers feasted in rooms without +a pane of glass in the windows. + +Popular opinion was against the Earl of Halifax, however, and when the old +sign-board was touched up, the name of William Pitt, the friend of +America, appeared on the sign. + +The portion of the old Earl of Halifax or Stavers Inn which is still +standing is shown in its forlorn old age on the opposite page. + +Mr. George Davenport, of Boston, a lineal descendant of old William +Davenport, owns one of the most interesting tavern bills I have ever seen. +It is of the old Wolfe Tavern at Newburyport. To those who can read +between the lines it reveals means and methods which were calculated to +arouse enthusiasm and create public sentiment during the exciting days of +the Stamp Act. The bill and its items read thus:-- + + "Dr. Messrs. Joseph Stanwood & Others of the Town of Newburyport for + Sunday expences at My House on Thirsday, Septr. 26th, A.D. 1765. At + the Grate Uneasiness and Tumult on Occasion of the Stamp Act. + + To William Davenport Old Tenor + To 3 Double Bowls punch by Capt. Robud's Order L3, 7, 6 + To 7 Double Bowls of punch 7, 7, 6 + To Double Bowl of Egg Toddy 14 + To Double Punch 22/6 Single bowl 11/3 1, 13, 9 + To Double Bowl Punch 22/6 Double bowl toddy 12/ 1, 14, 6 + To Bowl Punch 11/3 Bowl Toddy 6/ 17, 3 + To Double Bowl Toddy 12/ bowl punch 11/3 1, 3, 3 + To Double Bowl punch 22/6 Nip Toddy 3/ 1, 5, 6 + To Mug Flip 5/ To a Thrible Bowl Punch 33/9 1, 18, 9 + To Double Bowl Punch 22/6 To a Thrible Bowl + Ditto 33/9 2, 16, 3 + To Double Bowl Punch 22/6 1, 2, 6 + To a Double Bowl Punch 22/6 1, 2, 6 + To Thrible Bowl Punch 33/9 Double Bowl Ditto + 22/6 2, 16, 3 + To Double Bowl Punch 22/6 Bowl Ditto 11/3 1, 13, 9 + To Double Bowl Punch 22/6 To Double Ditto + 22/6 Bowl 2, 5 + To 6 Lemons 15/ To Bowl of Punch 11/3 1, 6, 3 + To 2 Double Bowls Punch 2, 5 + To Double Bowle Punch 22/6 bowl Punch 11/3 1, 13, 9 + To 2 Double Bowles punch 1/5 To bowl punch 11/3 2, 16, 3 + To bowl Punch 11/3 To bowl punch 11/3 1, 2, 6 + To the Suppers which were cooked Hot 2, 5 + To 8 Double Bowles Punch after Supper 9 + To Double Bowl Toddy 12/ Bowl Punch 11/3 1, 2, 6 + To Bowl Egg Toddy 7/ 7 + To 6 pintes and 1/2 of Spirits @ 10/ per pint 3, 5 + To a Breakfast of Coffee for Sd Company 2, 5 + ----------- + 59, 17, 3 + Lawful Money 7, 19, 7-1/2 + + Newbury Port 28 Sept. 1765. + Errors excepted William Davenport." + + +[Illustration: Handbill of Wolfe Tavern.] + + +There was also a credit account of eleven pounds received in various sums +from Captain Robud, Richard Farrow, and one Celeby. + +It is impossible to do more than to name, almost at haphazard, a few of +the taverns that had some share in scenes of Revolutionary struggle. Many +served as court-rooms when court-martials were held; others were seized +for military prisons; others were fired upon; others served as barracks; +some as officers' headquarters; others held secret meetings of patriots; +many were used as hospitals. + +Many an old tavern is still standing which saw these scenes in the +Revolutionary War. A splendid group of these hale and hearty old veterans +is found in the rural towns near Boston. At the Wright Tavern, in Concord +(shown on page 417), lodged Major Pitcairn, the British commander, and in +the parlor on the morning before the battle of Concord, he stirred his +glass of brandy with his bloody finger, saying he would thus stir the +rebel's blood before night. The Monroe Tavern, of Lexington (facing page +406), was the headquarters of Lord Percy on the famous 19th of April, +1775. The Buckman Tavern, of the same town (page 23), was the rallying +place of the Minute Men on April 18th, and contains many a bullet hole +made by the shots of British soldiers. The Cooper Tavern (page 68) and the +Russel Tavern (page 379), both of Arlington, were also scenes of activity +and participation in the war. The Wayside Inn of Sudbury (page 372) and +the Black Horse Tavern of Winchester were the scenes of the reassembling +of the soldiers after the battle of Lexington. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Wolfe Tavern.] + + +On the south side of Faneuil Hall Square in Boston, a narrow passageway +leads into the gloomy recesses of a yard or court of irregular shape; this +is Corn Court, and in the middle of this court stands, overshadowed by +tall modern neighbors, the oldest inn in Boston. It has been raised and +added to, and disfigured with vast painted signs, and hideous fire +escapes, but within still retains its taproom and ancient appearance. As +early as 1634, Samuel Cole had an ordinary on this spot, and in 1636, +Governor Vane entertained there Miantonomah and his twenty warriors. This +building, built nearly two centuries ago, was given the name of Hancock in +1780, when he became governor. In 1794, Talleyrand was a guest at this old +hostelry, and Louis Philippe in 1797. Washington, Franklin, and scores of +other patriots have tarried within its walls; and in its taproom were held +meetings of the historic Boston Tea-party. + +The Green Dragon Inn was one of the most famous of historic taverns. A +representation of it from an old print is shown on page 187. The metal +dragon which gave the name projected from the wall on an iron rod. + +Warren was the first Grand Master of the first Grand Lodge of Masons that +held its meetings at this inn; and other patriots came to the inn to +confer with him on the troublous times. The inn was a famous resort for +the sturdy mechanics of the North End. Paul Revere wrote:-- + + "In the fall of 1774 and winter of 1775, I was one of upwards of + thirty men, chiefly mechanics, who formed ourselves with a Committee + for the purpose of watching the movements of the British soldiers and + gaining every intelligence of the movements of the Tories. We held our + meetings at the Green Dragon Tavern. This committee were astonished to + find all their secrets known to General Gage, although every time they + met every member swore not to reveal their transactions even to + Hancock, Adams, Otis, Warren or Church." + +The latter, Dr. Church, proved to be the traitor. The mass meeting of +these mechanics and their friends held in this inn when the question of +the adoption of the Federal Constitution was being considered was deemed +by Samuel Adams one of the most important factors of its acceptance. +Daniel Webster styled the Green Dragon the Headquarters of the Revolution. +During the war it was used as a hospital. + + +[Illustration: Hancock Tavern.] + + +It is pleasant to note how many old taverns in New England, though no +longer public hostelries, still are occupied by descendants of the +original owners. Such is the home of Hon. John Winn in Burlington, +Massachusetts. It stands on the road to Lowell by way of Woburn, about +eleven miles out of Boston. The house was used at the time of the battle +of Bunker Hill as a storage-place for the valuables of Boston and +Charlestown families. The present home of the Winns was built in 1734 +upon the exact site of the house built in 1640 by the first Edward Winn, +the emigrant. In it the first white child was born in the town of Woburn, +December 5, 1641. + +The tavern was kept in Revolutionary days by Lieutenant Joseph Winn, who +marched off to join the Lexington farmers on April 19, 1775, at two +o'clock in the morning, when the alarm came "to every Middlesex village +and farm" to gather against the redcoats. He came home late that night, +and fought again at Bunker Hill. + +The tavern sign bore the coat of arms of the Winns; it was--not to use +strict heraldic terms--three spread eagles on a shield. As it was not +painted with any too strict obedience to the rules of heraldry or art, nor +was it hung in a community that had any very profound knowledge or +reverence on either subject, the three noble birds soon received a +comparatively degraded title, and the sign-board and tavern were known as +the Three Broiled Chickens. + +A building in New York which was owned by the De Lanceys before it became +a public house is still standing on the southeast corner of Broad and +Pearl streets; its name is well known to-day, Fraunces' Tavern. This name +came from the stewardship of Samuel Fraunces, "Black Sam," a soldier of +the American Revolution. The tavern originally bore a sign with the device +of the head of Queen Charlotte, and was known as the Queen's Head, but in +Revolutionary times Black Sam was a patriot, and in his house were held +many patriotic and public meetings. The most famous of these meetings, +one which has given the name of Washington's Headquarters to the tavern, +was held in the Long Room on December 4, 1783: whereat Washington sadly +bade farewell to his fellow-officers who had fought with him in the War +for Independence. In this room, ten days previously, had been celebrated +the evacuation of the city of New York by the British, by a dinner given +to General Washington by Governor Clinton, at which the significant +thirteen toasts were drunk to the new nation. Black Sam was a public +benefactor as well as a patriot. He established a course of lectures on +natural philosophy, and opened an exhibition of wax figures, seventy in +all, for the amusement of New Yorkers. His story, and that of the tavern +bearing his name, have been told at length many times in print. + + +[Illustration: Sam Fraunces.] + + +Another interesting Revolutionary inn in New York was the Golden Hill Inn. +The general estimate of the date of its building is 1694; then 122 William +Street was a golden grainfield, on one corner of the Damon Farm. After +three-quarters of a century of good hospitality it was chosen as the +headquarters of the Sons of Liberty in New York, and within its walls +gathered the committee in 1769, to protest against Lieutenant-governor +Colden's dictum that the colonists must pay for supplies for the British +soldiers. The result was a call for a meeting of the citizens and the +governor's angry offer of a reward for knowledge of the place of meeting. +The cutting down of the liberty pole on the night of January 17, 1770, and +the seizure of four red-coats by the patriots ended in a fight in the inn +garden and the death of one patriot. A century of stirring life followed +until 1896, when the old tavern sadly closed its doors under the pressure +of the Raines Law. + +The Keeler Tavern was a famous hostelry for travellers between New York +and Boston. Its old sign-board is shown on page 205. During the +Revolution, landlord Keeler was well known to be a patriot, and was +suspected of manufacturing cartridges in his tavern. The British poured a +special fire upon the building, and one cannon ball lodged in a timber on +the north side of the house still is to be seen by drawing aside the +shingle that usually conceals it. A companion cannon ball whistled so +close to a man who was climbing the stairs of the house that he tumbled +down backward screaming, "I'm a dead man," until his friends with +difficulty silenced him, and assured him he was living. A son of the +landlord, Jeremiah Keeler, enlisted in the Continental army when but +seventeen; he became a sergeant, and was the first man to scale the +English breastworks at Yorktown. He was presented with a sword by his +commanding officer, Lafayette, and it is still preserved. + +When Lafayette made his triumphal progress through the United States in +1824, he visited Ridgefield and the tavern to see Jeremiah Keeler, and a +big ball was given in the tavern in his honor. Jerome Bonaparte and his +beautiful Baltimore bride stopped there in 1804. Oliver Wolcott and +Timothy Pickering were other sojourners under its roof. Peter Parley gave +to the Keeler Tavern the palm for good cooking. + +The old Conkey Tavern at Prescott, Massachusetts, saw the gathering of a +very futile but picturesque windstorm of Revolutionary grievance. It was +built in 1758 by William Conkey, on a lovely but lonely valley midway +between the east and west hills of Pelham. The Swift River running through +this valley was made the boundary in the town division in 1822, which made +eastern Pelham into Prescott. Captain Daniel Shays, the leader of Shays' +Rebellion, lived half a mile from the tavern on the Centre Range Road. In +the cheerful rooms of this tavern, Shays, aided by the well-stocked +tavern-bar, incited the debt-burdened farmers to rebel against their state +government. Here he drilled his "flood-wood," and from hence he led them +forth to Springfield, and on January 25, 1787, was promptly repulsed by +the state militia under General Lincoln. Eleven hundred men trooped back +to Pelham, and after four days of what must have proved scant and cold +fare in those barren winter hilltops, again sallied out to Petersham. Here +he was again routed by Lincoln, who, with his men, had marched thirty +miles without halt, from eight o'clock at night to nine the following +morning through a blinding, northeast New England snowstorm. A hundred and +fifty of Shays' men were captured, but their valiant and wordy leader +escaped. + + +[Illustration: Green Dragon Tavern.] + + +When the photograph (shown opposite page 188) was taken, in 1883, the old +timbers within the house were sound and firm, and the beams overhead still +bore the marks of the muskets of Shays' impatient men. It was a +characteristic "deserted home" of New England. + +Nothing could more fully picture Whittier's lines:-- + + "Against the wooded hills it stands, + Ghost of a dead house; staring through + Its broken lights on wasted lands + Where old-time harvests grew. + + "Unploughed, unsown, by scythe unshorn, + The poor forsaken farm-fields lie, + Once rich and rife with golden corn + And pale-green breadths of rye. + + "So sad, so drear; it seems almost + Some haunting Presence makes its sign, + That down some shadowy lane some ghost + Might drive his spectral kine." + +Since then the old tavern has fallen down, a sad ruin, like many another +on New England hills, in a country as wild and lonely, probably far +lonelier, than in the days of the Revolution and Shays' Rebellion. The +sign-board (page 190) is still preserved. + +Eighteenth-century taverns had a special function which had a bearing on +their war relations; they were "improved" as recruiting offices. During +the years 1742 to 1748, and from 1756 to 1763, while England was at war +with France, the "listing" was brisk. Here is a typical advertisement +dated 1759:-- + + "All able-bodied fit Men that have an Inclination to serve his Majesty + King George the Second, in the First Independent Company of Rangers, + now in the Province of _Nova Scotia_ commanded by _Joseph Gorham, + Esq._; shall, on enlisting, receive good Pay and Cloathing, a large + Bounty, with a Crown to drink the King's Health. And by repairing to + the Sign of the Bear in King-Street, _Boston_, and to Mr. + _Cornelius Crocker_, Innholder in _Barnstable_, may hear the + particular Encouragement, and many Advantages accruing to a Soldier, + in the Course of the Duty of that Company, too long to insert here; + and further may depend on being discharged at the expiration of the + Time entertain'd for, and to have every other Encouragement punctually + compli'd with." + + +[Illustration: Conkey Tavern.] + + +In the "French War of 1744," the Governor of Jamaica sent his "leftenants" +to Philadelphia to fill up his regiments. It was worth "listing" at the +Widow Roberts' Coffee-house in those days, when every "sojer" got six +shillings a week extra, and his family carried free to Antigua if he +wished it, and land to settle on in that glorious country when war was +over. Brisk and cheerful was the enrolment, and I trust all lived happy +ever after in the tropic land, so far away in miles and environment from +the Quaker town of their youth. + +It was pleasant work, also, for "gentlemen sailors" in 1744. The colonies +whisked out on the high seas that year a hundred and thirteen full-manned +privateers. Wealthy merchants gathered around the inn tables to join +fortunes in these ventures; plans were quickly matured; and the articles +of agreement signed by these rich ship-owners were quickly followed by +articles of agreement to be signed by the seamen. Oh, what prizes these +cruisers brought into port! There are no items in the newspapers of that +day under the head of Philadelphia and New York news save lists of prizes. +When these half-pirates came in, cannon were fired, the whole town turned +out, and the taverns were filled with rejoicings. The names of the ships +and their captains were household words. The captured cargoes were carried +ashore; inventories were posted in the taprooms, and often the goods were +sold within the welcoming tavern doors. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Conkey Tavern.] + + +It has been said that taverns bearing names of ships, maritime phrases, +and seafaring titles were usually chosen as shipping offices for the +enlistment of privateersmen and marines on men-of-war. It is more probable +that the most popular tavern in any locality frequented by sailors and +seamen was the one chosen, whatever its name. In the _Boston Post Boy_ of +June, 1762, is the following notice:-- + + "NOW BOUND ON A CRUIZE OF SIX MONTHS + + Against His Majesties enemies, The Brigantine _Tartar_, a Prime Sailor + mounting Fourteen Six Pounders, Twenty Culverines, and will carry One + Hundred and Twenty Men. Commanded by William Augustus Peck. All + + GENTLEMEN SEAMEN + + and able bodied Landsmen who have a mind to make their Fortunes, and + are inclined to take a Cruize in this said Vessel, by applying at this + King's Head Tavern at the North End, may view the Articles which are + more advantageous to the Ship's Company than were ever before offered + in this Place." + +To those who know the condition of Jack Tar aboard ship a century ago, and +the attitude which Captain Peck doubtless assumed to his seamen the moment +the _Tartar_ was started on this "Cruize," there is a sarcastic pleasantry +in the term Gentlemen Seamen used by him in common with other captains +ashore, that might be swallowed in a taproom with bowls of grog and flip, +but would never go down smoothly on shipboard. + +Gentlemen sailors were frequently impressed in a very different manner. +The press-gang was one of the peculiar institutions of Great Britain, and +its aggressive outrages formed one of the causes of "Madison's War," as +old people liked to term the War of 1812. The _Virginia Gazette_ of the +first of October, 1767, tells of a far different scene from that indicated +by the plausible words of Captain Peck; one in which a Norfolk tavern took +a part:-- + + "It appears that Captain Morgan of the Hornet, Sloop of War, concerted + a bloody riotous Plan, to impress Seamen, at Norfolk, Virginia, for + which Purpose his Tender was equipped with Guns and Men, and under + cover of the Night, said Morgan landed at a public wharff, having + first made proper Dispositions either for an Attack or Retreat; then + went to a Tavern, and took a chearful Glass, after which they went to + work and took every Person they met with and knock'd all down that + resisted; and dragg'd them on board the Tender but the Town soon took + the Alarm, and being headed by Paul Loyal, Esq., a Magistrate, they + endeavor'd to convince Captain Morgan of his Error; but being deaf to + all they said he ordered the People in the Tender to fire on the + Inhabitants, but they refused to obey their Commander's orders and he + was soon oblig'd to fly, leaving some of his Hornets behind, who were + sent to Gaol." + + +[Illustration: Naval Pitcher.] + + +It is astonishing to read of such ruffianly kidnappings under the +protection of the British Government, and to know that seamen and sailors +who had been so treated would assist in such outrages on others. It is +only one of the many proofs that we meet everywhere in history of the +thick-skinned indifference and cruelty of nearly all of the human race a +century ago. + +It was far worse in these matters in England than in the colonies. Mr. +Ashton tells us that in one night over two thousand one hundred men were +pressed in London alone. Riot and bloodshed accompanied those infamous +raids; sometimes a whole town turned out to resist the officers and ship's +men. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +THE TAVERN PANORAMA + + +We have to-day scores of places of amusement, and means of amusement, +where in earlier days all diversions centred at the tavern. The furnishing +of food and shelter to travellers and to horses, and of liquid comfort to +neighbors, was not the only function of the tavern, nor the meeting for +cheerful interchange of news and sentiment. Whatever there was of novelty +in entertainment or instruction, was delivered at the tavern, and it +served as the gathering place for folk on scores of duties or pleasures +bent. There was in fact a constant panorama passing within the walls and +before the doors of an old tavern, not only in the shape of distinguished, +picturesque, and unwonted guests, but through the variety of uses to which +the tavern was put. It would be impossible to enumerate them all. Many of +the chapters of this book indicate some of them. We can simply glance at a +few more of the most common and of the most interesting ones. + +Though guests of colonial days are often named as having visited the old +taverns which still linger intact, the names of importance which are most +frequently heard are those of Revolutionary heroes and visitors, those of +Franklin, Washington, and Lafayette being most proudly enumerated. +Franklin was a great local traveller. His post-office affairs took him +frequently along the road. He was fond of visiting, and people were +naturally fond of having him visit them. He was such a welcome guest that +he need not have entered a tavern from Maine to Georgia. Washington made +several trips through the states, one of much ceremony. He gives the names +of the taverns at which he stopped. + +I have been in tavern-rooms honored a century ago by the sleeping presence +of Washington, but I have never slept in them. I would rather look at them +than sleep in them; and I have moralized over the simplicity and lack of +luxury which was the best that the tavern could offer, even to that great +man. + +Lafayette was made welcome in many private houses in his tour in 1824, but +he also was a tavern guest. His journal is preserved in Paris, +untranslated. In it he tells of seeing the well-known Landing of Lafayette +plates and dishes for the first time at a tavern in a small town in +western New York. + +All the statesmen of the South stopped at taverns on the old National +road: Harrison, Houston, Taylor, Polk, and Allen. Homespun Davy Crockett, +popular General Jackson, stately Henry Clay, furnished a show for the +country by-standers to gape at. In the Northern states Daniel Webster was +the god whose coming was adored. A halo of glory shed by his presence +still hangs round many a tavern room, and well it may, for he was a giant +among men. + + +[Illustration: Washington Tavern, North Wilbraham, Massachusetts.] + + +To show the variety of the tavern panorama let me quote what Edwin +Lasseter Bynner wrote of the inns of Boston:-- + + "They were the centres of so much of its life and affairs, the resort + at once of judge and jury, of the clergy and the laity, of the + politician and the merchant; where the selectmen came to talk over the + affairs of the town, and higher officials to discuss the higher + interests of the province; where royal governors and distinguished + strangers were entertained alike with the humblest wayfarer and the + meanest citizen; where were held the carousals of roistering red-coat + officers, and the midnight plottings of muttering stern-lipped + patriots; where, in fine, the swaggering ensign of the royal army, + the frowning Puritan, the obnoxious Quaker, the Huguenot refugee, and + the savage Indian chief from the neighboring forest might perchance + jostle each other in the common taproom." + +Naturally the tavern proved the exhibition place and temporary +lodging-place of all secular shows which could not be housed in the +meeting-house. It contained the second assembly room in size, and often +the only other large room in town save that devoted to religious +gatherings. Hence, when in Salem in 1781 "the Sentimentalists and all +Volontiers who are pleased to encourage the extensive Propogation of +Polite Literature" were invited to attend a book auction by a "Provedore +and Professor of Auctioneering," this sale of books was held at Mr. +Goodhue's tavern. At the American Coffee-house in Boston the firm that +vendued books within doors also sold jackasses on the street. + +"Monstrous Sights" found at the tavern a congenial temporary home, where +discussion of their appearance was held before the tavern bar, while the +tavern barn restrained and confined the monster if he chanced to be a wild +beast. A moose, a walrus, a camel, a lion, a leopard, appeared in +succession in Salem taverns, chiefly at the Black Horse. Then came a +wonder of natural history, a Pygarg, said to be from Russia. We have a +description of it: it had "the likeness of a camel, bear, mule, goat, and +common bullock"; it is spoken of in the book of Deuteronomy, Chapter XIV. +I am not sure that we would recognize our native American moose if he were +not called by name, in the creature advertised as having "a face like a +mouse, ears like an ass, neck and back like a camel, hind-parts like a +horse, tail like a rabbit, and feet like a heifer." Cassowaries, learned +pigs, learned horses, and rabbits were shown for petty sums. Deformed +beasts and persons were exhibited. Pictures, "prospects," statues, +elaborate clocks, moving puppets, and many mechanical contrivances could +be viewed in the tavern parlor. + +"Electrical machines" were the wonder of their day. Solemn professors and +gay "fakirs" exhibited them from tavern to tavern. The first +lightning-rods also made a great show. Shortly after the invention of +balloons, came their advent as popular shows in many towns. They often +ascended from the green in front of the tavern. They bore many pompous +names,--"Archimedial Phaetons," "Vertical Aerial Coaches," "Patent +Foederal Balloons." The public was assured that "persons of timid nature" +would find nothing to terrify them in the ascent. They were not only +recommended as engines of amusement and wonder, but were urged upon +"Invaletudinarians" as hygienic factors, in that they caused in the ascent +the "sudden revulsion of the blood and humours" of aeronautic travellers. + +The Bunch of Grapes housed Mr. Douglas when he delivered his famous +lecture on "Heads, Coats of Arms, Wigs, Ladies' Head Dresses," etc.; it +was an office for John Hurd, an early insurance broker, chiefly for marine +risks. Nearly all the first insurance offices were in taverns. + + +[Illustration: Black Horse Tavern, Salem, Massachusetts.] + + +One intelligent chronicler relates:-- + + "The taverns of Boston were the original business Exchanges; they + combined the Counting House, the Exchange-office, the Reading-room, + and the Bank: each represented a locality. To the Lamb Tavern, called + by the sailors 'sheep's baby,' people went 'to see a man from + Dedham'--it was the resort of all from Norfolk County. The old Eastern + Stage House in Ann Street was frequented by 'down Easters,' captains + of vessels, formerly from the Penobscot and Kennebec; there were to be + seen groups of sturdy men seated round an enormous fire-place, + chalking down the price of bark and lumber, and shippers bringing in a + vagrant tarpaulin to 'sign the articles.' To the Exchange Coffee-House + resorted the nabobs of Essex County; here those aristocratic eastern + towns, Newburyport and Portsmouth, were represented by ship owners and + ship builders, merchants of the first class." + +The first attempt at the production of plays in New England was a signal +for prompt and vital opposition. Little plays called drolls were exhibited +in the taverns and coffee-houses; such plays as _Pickle Herring_, _Taylor +riding to Brentford_, _Harlequin and Scaramouch_. About 1750 two young +English strollers produced what must have been a mightily bald rendering +of _Otway's Orphans_ in a Boston coffee-house; this was a step too far in +frivolity, and stern Boston magistrates took rigid care there were no more +similar offences. Many ingenious ruses were invented and presented to the +public to avoid the hated term and conceal the hated fact of play acting. +"Histrionic academies" were a sneaking introduction of plays. In 1762 a +clever but sanctimonious manager succeeded in crowding his company and his +play into a Newport tavern. Here is his truckling play-bill:-- + + "KINGS ARMS TAVERN NEWPORT RHODE ISLAND + + On Monday, June 10th, at the Public Room of the Above Inn will be + delivered a series of + + Moral Dialogues + + _In Five Parts_ + + Depicting the evil effects of jealousy and other bad passions and + Proving that happiness can only spring from the pursuit of Virtue. + + MR. DOUGLASS--Will represent a noble magnanimous Moor called Othello, + who loves a young lady named Desdemona, and, after he marries her, + harbours (as in too many cases) the dreadful passion of jealousy. + + _Of jealousy, our being's bane + Mark the small cause and the most dreadful pain._ + + MR. ALLYN--Will depict the character of a specious villain, in the + regiment of Othello, who is so base as to hate his commander on mere + suspicion and to impose on his best friend. Of such characters, it is + to be feared, there are thousands in the world, and the one in + question may present to us a salutary warning. + + _The man that wrongs his master and his friend + What can he come to but a shameful end?_ + + MR. HALLAM--Will delineate a young and thoughtless officer who is + traduced by Mr. Allyn and, getting drunk, loses his situation and his + general's esteem. All young men whatsoever take example from Cassio. + + _The ill effects of drinking would you see? + Be warned and fly from evil company._ + + MR. MORRIS--Will represent an old gentleman, the father of Desdemona, + who is not cruel or covetous, but is foolish enough to dislike the + noble Moor, his son-in-law, because his face is not white, forgetting + that we all spring from one root. Such prejudices are very numerous + and very wrong. + + _Fathers beware what sense and love ye lack! + 'Tis crime, not colour, that makes the being black._ + + MR. QUELCH--Will depict a fool who wishes to become a knave, and, + trusting to one, gets killed by one. Such is the friendship of rogues! + Take heed! + + _Where fools would become, how often you'll + Perceive the knave not wiser than the fool._ + + MRS. MORRIS--Will represent a young and virtuous wife, who being + wrongfully suspected, gets smothered (in an adjoining room) by her + husband. + + _Reader, attend, and ere thou goest hence + Let fall a tear to helpless innocence._ + + MRS. DOUGLASS--Will be her faithful attendant who will hold out a good + example to all servants male and female, and to all people in + subjection. + + _Obedience and gratitude + Are things as rare as they are good._ + + Various other Dialogues, too numerous to mention here, will be + delivered at night, all adapted to the mind and manners. The whole + will be repeated on Wednesday and on Saturday. Tickets, six shillings + each, to be had within. Commencement at 7. Conclusion at half-past + ten: in order that every Spectator may go home at a sober hour and + reflect upon what he has seen, before he retired to rest. + + God save the King + Long may he sway. + East, north, and south + And fair America." + +We can see the little public room of the tavern with its rows of chairs +and benches at one end and the group of starveling actors at the other, +who never played a greater farce than when they set up as being solely +ministers of piety and virtue. + +"Consorts" of music were given in the taverns, and, most exciting of all, +lotteries were drawn there. This licensed and highly approved form of +gambling had the sanction of the law and the participation of every +community. Churches had lotteries "for promoting public worship and the +advancement of religion." Colleges and schools thus increased their +endowments. Towns and states raised money to pay the public debt by means +of lotteries. + + +[Illustration: Stickney Tavern.] + + +It was asserted that "the interests of literature and learning were +supported, the arts and sciences were encouraged, religion was extended, +the wastes of war were repaired, inundation prevented, travel increased, +and the burthen of taxes lessened by lotteries." Many private lotteries +were drawn at the taverns, which were thronged at that time with excited +ticket-owners. + +Lodges of Freemasons in America, following the custom which prevailed in +England, met at the taverns. In Philadelphia they met at Peg Mullen's +Beefsteak House. The lodges were often known by the names of the taverns +at which the meetings were held. One Boston lodge met at the Royal +Exchange Tavern, and hence was known by its name. That hostelry was, +however, so popular with the visiting public that sometimes the brethren +had to suspend their meetings for want of room. In December, 1749, the +Masons of Boston celebrated the feast of St. John, and appeared in +procession on the streets. This excited the greatest curiosity and +ridicule. Joseph Green wrote a poem in which the chief object of his wit +was Luke Vardy, the keeper of the Royal Exchange:-- + + "Where's honest Luke, that cook from London? + For without Luke the Lodge is undone. + 'Twas he who oft dispell'd their sadness, + And filled the _Brethren's_ hearts with gladness. + _Luke_ in return is made a brother + As good and true as any other. + And still, though broke with age and wine, + Preserves the _token_ and the _sign_." + +Massachusetts Grand Lodge organized at Green Dragon, and the first lodge +of all, St. John's Lodge, met in 1733 at the Bunch of Grapes in King (now +State) Street. One of the three bunches of grapes that formed the original +tavern sign still hangs in front of the lodge room of St. John's Lodge in +Masonic Temple, Boston. This tavern had an early and lasting reputation as +"the best punch-house in Boston." In Revolutionary days it became the +headquarters of High Whigs, and a scarlet coat was an inflammatory signal +in that taproom. The "Whig Tavern" was a proper centre for popular +gatherings after the evacuation of Boston; General Stark's victory at +Bennington was celebrated there "to high taste," says a participant. The +firing of cannon, discharge of rockets, playing of fifes and drums, made +satisfactory noise. The gentlemen had ample liquor within doors, and two +barrels of grog were distributed to outsiders on the streets--all "with +the greatest propriety." When General Stark arrived, a few weeks later, +there was equal rejoicing. The glories of the entertainment of Washington +and a series of gallant soldiers and distinguished travellers do not, +perhaps, reflect the honor upon the old tavern that comes from its having +been the scene of a most significant fact in our history. It was the +gathering place and place of organization of the Ohio Company--the first +concerted movement of New England toward the Great West. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Keeler's Tavern.] + + +The famous Craft's Tavern in the little town of Walpole, New Hampshire, +kept by Major Asa Bullard, was the gathering place in 1796 of one of the +most brilliant groups of writers ever engaged in a literary undertaking in +this country. It was called the Literary Club of Walpole, and is a +landmark in the literary life of New England. In this rustic New Hampshire +tavern this Club might repeat Beaumont's lines to Jonson beginning:-- + + "What things have we seen + Done at the Mermaid, heard words that have been + So nimble, and so full of subtle flame." + + +[Illustration: Plate, Nahant Hotel.] + + +The head of this Yankee collection of wits was the Lay Preacher, Joseph +Dennie, who, at the death of the novelist, Charles Brockden Brown, was the +only man in the United States who made a profession of literature. He was +born in Boston, studied law in Charlestown, New Hampshire, then an +important and bustling town, went to Walpole, and became conductor of the +_New Hampshire Journal and Farmer's Museum_. For this newspaper and in +this Craft's Tavern he wrote his famous _Lay Sermons_ which were read from +Maine to Georgia. In the talented tavern circle was Royall Tyler, author +of the play _The Contrast_ and the novel _The Algerine Captive_. He became +Chief Justice of Vermont. Another contributor was David Everett, author of +the well-known juvenile spouting-piece, beginning:-- + + "You'd scarce expect one of my age + To speak in public on the stage." + +Still another, Thomas G. Fessenden, wrote _Terrible Tractoration_. It was +a day of pseudonyms; Fessenden wrote as Simon Spunky and Christopher +Caustic; Everett called himself Peter Peveril; Isaac Story was Peter +Quinn; Dennie was Oliver Old-school; Tyler was Colon and Spondee. + +A day of great sport at the tavern was when there was a turkey-shoot; +these often took place on Thanksgiving Day. Notices such as this were +frequently found in the autumnal newspapers:-- + + "SHARP-SHOOTING. + + "Thos. D. Ponsland informs his Friends and the Friends of _Sport_ that + he will on Friday, 7th day of December next, set up for SHOOTING a + number of + + FINE FAT TURKEYS + + and invites all _Gunners_ and others who would wish to recreate + themselves to call on the day after Thanksgiving at the Old Bakers' + Tavern, Upp. Parish Beverly, where every accommodation would be + afforded." + +In the _Boston Evening Post_ of January 11, 1773, notice was given that "a +Bear and Number of Turkeys" would be set up as a mark at the Punch Bowl +Tavern in Brookline. + +Captain Basil Hall, travelling in America in 1827, was much surprised at +the account of one of these turkey-shoots, which he thus fully +describes:-- + + "At a country inn bearing the English name of Andover, close to the + Indian river Shawsheen, I observed the following printed bill stuck up + in the bar. + + SPORTSMEN ATTEND + + 300 FOWLS + + will be set up for the sportsmen at the Subscriber's Hotel in + Tewksbury, on Friday the 12 October, inst. at 8 A.M. + + Gentlemen of Tewksbury, Lowell and vicinity are invited to attend. + + WILLIAM HARDY. + + "This placard was utterly unintelligible to me; and the Landlord + laughed at my curiosity but good humouredly enlightened my ignorance + by explaining that these shooting matches were so common in America, + that he had no doubt I would fall in with them often. I regretted very + much having passed one day too late for this transatlantic battle. It + appears that these birds were literally barn door fowls, placed at + certain distances, and fired at by any one who chooses to pay the + allotted sum for a shot. If he kills the bird, he is allowed to carry + it off; otherwise, like a true sportsman, he has the amusement for + his money. Cocks and hens being small birds, are placed at the + distance of 165 feet; and for every shot with ball the sportsman has + to pay four cents. Turkeys are placed at twice the distance, or 110 + yards, if a common musket be used; but at 165 yards if the weapon be a + rifle. In both those cases the price per shot is from six to ten + cents." + +There were other sports offered at the taverns, as shown by an +advertisement in the _Essex Register_ of June, 1806:-- + + "SPORTSMEN ATTEND. + + The Gentlemen _Sportsmen_ of this town and Vicinity are informed that + a Grand Combat will take place between the URUS ZEBU and Spanish BULL + on 4th of July if fair weather. If not the next fair day at the HALF + WAY HOUSE on the _Salem Turnpike_. No danger need be apprehended + during the performance, as the Circus is very convenient. After the + performance there will be a Grand FOX CHASE on the Marshes near the + Circus to start precisely at 6 o'clock." + +A woman tavern-keeper on Boston Neck, Sally Barton, of the George, also +had bull-baiting as one of the attractions of her home. In 1763, the +keeper of the DeLancey Arms in New York had a bull-baiting. The English +officers stationed in America brought over this fashion. In the year 1774, +there was a bull-baiting held every day for many months on what is now a +quiet street near my home. Landlord Loosely,--most appropriately +named,--of the King's Head Tavern, took charge of these bull-baitings and +advertised for good active bulls and strong dogs. One advertisement, in +rhyme, begins:-- + + "This notice gives to all who covet + Baiting the bull, and dearly love it." + +Fox-hunting, too, was beloved of the British visitors, and of Southern +planters as well. The Middle and Southern states saw frequent meets of +mounted gentlemen with hounds, usually at the tavern, to which they +returned after the day's run to end with suitable jollity. + +The old English "drift of the forest" became in America a wolf-rout or +wolf-drive. Then circles of men and boys were formed to drive in toward +the centre of the ring and kill squirrels and hares which pestered the +farmers. Then came shooting matches in which every living wild creature +was a prey. The extent to which these devastating hunting parties could be +carried is shown by an article in a Bedford County (Pennsylvania) +newspaper. On Friday, December 4, 1818, about seven hundred men from +neighboring townships formed such a party. The signal was first given on +French Town Mountain, and the circle of forty miles of horn blowing to +horn was completed in fifteen minutes. The hunters progressed to a centre +in Wysox township, using guns as long as they could with safety, then +bayonets, clubs, poles, pitchforks, etc. Five bears, nine wolves, and +fourteen foxes were killed, and three hundred deer--it makes one's heart +ache. It was estimated that more than double the number escaped. The +expedition closed with great mirth at the tavern. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Wolfe Tavern, Brooklyn, Connecticut.] + + +I find through many legal reports and accounts of trials and arrests, that +upper rooms in the taverns were frequently used as lockups or temporary +jails. Mr. S. L. Frey, of Palatine Bridge, in his charming account of +olden days in that town, tells an amusing episode of tavern life connected +with this custom. Near the village schoolhouse lived a man named Fisk--a +quiet citizen, friendly to the boys, but given, however, to frequent +disappearances, and a profound reticence as to his means of livelihood +which was naturally a distinct grievance and indeed an injustice to every +respectably inquisitive neighbor. The boys noted that he was a great lover +of horses, and seemed to have a constant succession of new ones in his +stable, and that these newcomers vanished in as silent and unaccountable a +manner as they had arrived. + +One morning the scholars were excited and delighted to learn that the +band of horse thieves that had for years ravaged the valley had at last +been ferreted out, the two leaders captured and safely lodged during the +night in the village jail, namely, a doubly locked and outside bolted room +in Uncle Jesse Vincent's tavern. And the climax of all the excitement and +pleasure was the fact that Neighbor Fisk was the leader of the gang. + +Court was called in the tavern parlor at noon. The sheriff and his +officers, lawyers from neighboring towns, all importance and pomposity, +all the men and all the boys from miles around were waiting eagerly to see +once more the mysterious Fisk, when a loud shout came from the men who had +gone to lead forth the prisoners that both had escaped. Of course they +had! An open window, a leanto roof, a trellis and a high fence,--no decent +prisoner could help escaping. + +But they had been startled in their plans, and hurried while exchanging +clothes, and it was plain from the garments left behind that one man had +vanished clad only in his shirt, stockings, and shoes. The dire confusion +of the first mortifying discovery soon changed to organized plans of +pursuit, and the chase turned to a great piece of woodland behind the +tavern. Oak and hickory with undergrowth of witchhazel--a prime place for +partridges and gray squirrels--led back from the river to the hills and a +deep gorge filled with solemn pines and hemlocks. + +The rampant boys were snubbed early in the day by the sheriff and told to +keep back; and one tall boy--"mad" at the insult--conceived the plan of +personating the thief. He was a famous runner, the best in the school. He +hid his coat in a hollow log, pulled his shirt over his trousers, Chinaman +fashion, worked his way around on the edge of the hunting party, and was +soon "discovered" by his boy friends, whose shouts of "Stop thief!" "Here +he is!" brought the whole army of searchers after him. Oh! what a hunt +followed. All were on foot, for no horses could pass through the heavy +undergrowth; the white flag of the pursued fluttered in and out far in +front into the swamp, under the bushes. Talk of hare and hounds! no game +was ever run like that. The fleet young horse thief in front easily +distanced the puffing sheriffs in the rear, and at last the pursuit was +given over. Fisk escaped, thanks to his friends the boys, but the story of +the wrath that was visited on the conspirators when their fun was +discovered the next day at the tavern is "another story." + +Sittings of courts were often held in the public room of taverns, not only +in small towns where assembly rooms were few, but in large cities. From +the settlement of Philadelphia till 1759, justices of peace heard and +decided causes in the public inns of Philadelphia, and the Common Council +had frequent sittings there. In Boston the courts were held in suburban +taverns when the smallpox scourged the town. In Postlethwaite's Tavern +(shown on page 214) the first courts of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, +were held in 1729, and propositions were made to make it the county seat; +but the present site of the city of Lancaster was finally chosen, though +Landlord Postlethwaite made strenuous endeavors to retain his tavern as a +centre. + + +[Illustration: Postlethwaite's Tavern, 1729.] + + +Our ancestors found in criminals and all the accompaniments of crime their +chief source of diversion. They did not believe in lonely captivity but in +public obloquy for criminals. The only exciting and stirring emotions +which entered their lives came through the recounting of crimes and +offences, and the sight of the punishment of these crimes and offences; +rising of course to the highest point of excitement in witnessing the +public executions of criminals. The bilboes were the first engine of +punishment in Boston, and were used until 1639, and perhaps much later. +The drinkers of a cup of sack at the Boston ordinary had much diversion in +seeing James Woodward, who had had too much sack at the Cambridge +ordinary, "laid by the heels" on the ground with a great bar of iron +fastened and locked to his legs with sliding shackles and a bolt. Still +more satisfaction had all honest Puritans when Thomas Morton, of +Merrymount, that amusing old debauchee and roisterer, was "clapt into the +bilbowes," where "the harmless salvages" gathered around and stared at him +like "poor silly lambes." + +The stocks soon superseded the bilboes and were near neighbors and +amusement purveyors to the tavern. Towns were forced by law to set up +"good sufficient stocks." Warwick, Rhode Island, ordered that "John Lowe +should erect the public stocks and whipping-post near David Arnold's +Tavern, and procure iron and timber for the same." The stocks were simple +to make; a heavy timber or plank had on the upper edge two half-circle +holes which met two similar notches or holes in a movable upper timber. +When this was in place these notches formed round holes to enclose the +legs of the prisoner, who could then be locked in. + +The whipping-post, a good sound British institution, was promptly set up +in every town, and the sound of the cat often entered the tavern windows. +I can imagine all the young folk thronging to witness the whipping of some +ardent young swain who had dared to make love to some fair damsel without +the consent of her parents. There was no room for the escape of any man +who thus "inveagled" a girl; the New Haven colony specified that any +tempting without the parents' sanction could not be done by "speech, +writing, message, company-keeping, unnecessary familiarity, disorderly +night meetings, sinful dalliance, gifts, or (as a wholesale blow to +lovers' inventions) in any other way." + +But sly Puritan maids found that even the "any other way" of Puritan +law-makers could be circumvented. Jacob Murline, in Hartford, on May-day +in 1660, without asking any permission of Goodman Tuttle, had some very +boisterous love-making with Sarah Tuttle, his daughter. It began by +Jacob's seizing Sarah's gloves and demanding the mediaeval forfeit--a kiss. +"Whereupon," writes the scandalized Puritan chronicler, "they sat down +together, his arm being about her, and her arm upon his shoulder or about +his neck, and hee kissed her and shee kissed him, or they kissed one +another, continuing in this posture about half an hour." The angry father, +on hearing of this, haled Jacob into court and sued him for damages in +"inveagling" his daughter's affections. There were plenty of witnesses of +the kissing, and Jacob seemed doomed to heavy fines and the +cat-o'-nine-tails, when crafty Sarah informed the Court that Jacob did not +inveigle her, that she wished him to kiss her--in fact, that she enticed +him. The baffled Court therefore had to fine Sarah, and of course Sarah's +father had to pay the fine; but the magistrate called her justly a "Bould +Virgin," and lectured her severely. To all this she gave the demure answer +"that she hoped God would help her to Carry it Better for time to come," +which would seem to be somewhat superfluous, since she had, without any +help, seemed to do about as well for herself as any girl could wish to +under the circumstances. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Pembroke Tavern.] + + +For some years the Quakers never were absent from the whipping-post. They +were trying enough, preaching everywhere, and on all occasions, yet never +willing to keep silent when the Puritan preacher held forth; not willing, +even, to keep away from the Puritan meeting. They interrupted these +meetings in most offensive ways, and were promptly whipped. One poor +Quakeress, Lydia Wardwell, "a young tender chaste person," but almost +demented with religious excitement, was taken forcibly from the Ipswich +meeting-house and "tyed to the fence-post of the Tavern," and then sorely +lashed. + +The pillory sometimes took the place of the stocks. In enduring this +punishment the culprit stood on a sort of bench, and his head and hands +were confined in holes cut in a hinged or divisible board. Lecture day was +often chosen as the day of punishment; as Hawthorne said, "it was a day of +public shame, the day on which transgressors received their reward of +ignominy." Thus Nicholas Olmstead, sentenced to the pillory in Hartford +"next Lecture day," was "sett on a lytle before the beginning and to stay +on a lytle after the end." In Maryland offenders were "nayled by both +eares to the Pillory, 3 Nailes in each Eare, and the Nailes to be slit +out." Samuel Breck says that in 1771, in Boston, men and women were +constantly seen pilloried, exposed to insults and jeers, and pelted with +filth and garbage. + +The 18th of September, 1755, was a great day in Cambridge, Massachusetts. +A negro woman named Phyllis was then and there burned to death--in +punishment for her share in the murder of her master. The diary of a +Boston gentleman still exists which shows us how he passed the day; +cheerfully drinking punch from tavern to tavern, and cheerfully watching +the hanging of the man-murderer and the burning of the woman. The day's +record ends: "Went home, went to bed and slept and woke up very finely +refreshed." Criminals were preached at in public, read their dying +confessions in public, were carted through the streets in open tumbrils, +and were hanged in public. On all those occasions the taverns flowed with +good cheer and merry meetings, for people came for many miles to witness +the interesting sight, and many were the happy reunions of friends. + +Another bustling busy day at the tavern was when "vandues" were held +within its walls. Due notice of these "vandues" had been given by posters +displayed in the tavern and village store, and occasionally by scant +newspaper advertisements. These auction sales were rarely of mixed +merchandise, but were of some special goods, such as India cotton stuffs, +foreign books, or boots and shoes. Criminals and paupers were also sold +for terms of service; usually the former were some of the varied tribe of +sneak-thieves which wandered through the country. In one case the human +"lot" offered for sale was a "prygman"--he had, like Autolycus, stolen the +bleaching linen from the grass and hedges. + +Another was an habitual fruit and vegetable thief (and he must have been +an extraordinary one to have been noted in a country where fruit and +vegetables on every farm were so freely shared with all passers-by). +Another, an Indian, stole from the lobster and eel pots of his honest +white neighbors. A sheep thief, sold at public auction in Clifford's +Tavern in Dunbarton, New Hampshire, took part in an interesting prologue, +as well as in the main performance, in the shape of a whipping of thirteen +stripes administered to him by the vigorous sheriff. Nevertheless, he +found a purchaser, who took his subdued and sore servant home to his farm +and set him to breaking and hatchelling flax. The convict fell to work as +cheerfully and assiduously as any honest laborer, but when he had cleaned +as much flax as he could carry, he added an unexpected epilogue to this +New England comedy by departing with his dressed flax for parts unknown; +thus proving that he laughs best who laughs last. Though it would seem +that the selectmen of the town, who had been amply paid "damages and +costs" through his sale, and who had also effectually banished a rogue +from their township, might join with him in a mirthful chorus. + + +[Illustration: Map Pitcher.] + + +The sale of paupers at the tavern was much more frequent than of +criminals. It was an exhibition of curious contrasts: the prosperous and +thirsty townsmen drinking at the tavern bar, and the forlorn group of +homeless, friendless creatures, usually young children and aged folk, +waiting to be sold to the lowest bidder for a term of feeble service and +meagre keep. The children were known after the sale as "bound boys" and +"bound girls," and much sympathy has been expended in modern books over +the hardness of their lives, and many pathetic stories written of them. +This method was, however, as good a solution of the problem of infant +pauperism as we have yet discovered. The children were removed from +vicious associations in almshouses, and isolated in homes where they had +to work just as the daughters and sons of the household worked. In many +cases they entered childless homes, and grew to be the prop and happiness +of their adopted parents, and the heirs of their little savings. The +auction at the tavern was frankly brutal, but the end accomplished was so +satisfactory that the custom has within a few years been resumed by the +more advanced and thoughtful guardians of paupers in many New England +towns. As for the auction sale of aged and infirm paupers, it is not +wholly a thing of the past. In Lackawanna township in Pike County, +Pennsylvania, paupers still are sold to the lowest bidder. A year ago, in +1899, at Rowland Station in that township the signs were posted, "A Woman +for Sale," and as of old the "vandue" was held at a tavern, one called +Rutan's Hotel. The bar-room was crowded, and Mrs. Elmira Quick, +seventy-seven years old, was put up "to be sold to the lowest bidder for +keep for a year." The bidding was spirited and ran quickly down from four +dollars a week. A backwoodsman had just offered to take her for a dollar +and a half a week, when Mrs. Quick firmly bid a dollar and a quarter. The +Overseer of the Poor hesitated, but Mrs. Quick stated she could maintain +herself on that amount--sixteen cents a day--and no one made an offer to +take her for less; so he was forced to conclude the bargain and draw up +the sale-papers. Let me add that this woman has three sons and a daughter +living--and these are our good _new_ times. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +FROM PATH TO TURNPIKE + + +The first roads in New England are called in the early court-records +"trodden paths." They were narrow worn lines, scarce two feet wide, +lightly trodden over pine needles and fallen leaves among the tree trunks +by the soft moccasined foot of the tawny savages as they walked silently +in Indian file through the forests. These paths were soon deepened and +worn bare by the heavy hobnailed shoes of the white settlers, others were +formed by the slow tread of domestic cattle, the best of all path makers, +as they wound around the hillsides to pasture or drinking place. Then a +scarcely broader bridle-path for horses, perhaps with blazed trees as +guide-posts, widened slowly to travelled roads and uneven cart-ways. These +roads followed and still wind to-day in the very lines of the foot-path +and the cattle-track. + +The early colonists walked as did their predecessors, the Indians, on +their own stout legs, when they travelled by land. We find even the +governors of the colonies walking off sturdily into the forests; crossing +the rivers and brooks on fallen trees; and sometimes being carried across +"pick-a-back" by vigorous Indian guides. We have one record of Governor +Winthrop in that dependent and rather un-governor-like attitude, and it is +well to think of this picture of him as affording a glimpse of one of the +human sides of his life, to balance the prevailing Chinese worship and +idealization of him and our other ancestors. + +The earliest trail or path was the old Plymouth or Coast Path, which +connected the capitols of two colonies, Boston and Plymouth. It ran +through old Braintree, and its permanence was established by an action of +the General Court in 1639. The Old Connecticut Path started from +Cambridge, ran through Marlborough, Grafton, Oxford, and on to Springfield +and Albany. The New Connecticut Path or Road started also from Cambridge, +thence to Grafton, then to Worcester, Brookfield, and on to Albany. The +Providence Path ran through Narragansett and Providence Plantations. The +Nipmuck Trail was made from Norwich. The "Kennebunk Road by the Sea" was +ordered by the Massachusetts Commissioners in 1653, sufficient highway +"between towns and towns for horse and foot." Kittery and York were +enjoined to "make straight and convenient way along East for Man and +Horse." + +The most famous of all these paths was the one known as the Bay Path. It +was in existence in 1673, and doubtless before. It left the Old +Connecticut Path at Wayland, Massachusetts, and ran through Marlborough to +Worcester, then to Oxford, Charlton, and Brookfield, where jutted off the +Hadley Path, to Ware, Belchertown, and Hadley, while the Bay Path +rejoined the Old Connecticut Path and thus on to Springfield. Holland +wrote of the Bay Path in his novel of that title:-- + + "It was marked by trees a portion of the distance and by slight + clearings of brush and thicket for the remainder. No stream was + bridged, no hill was graded, and no marsh drained. The path led + through woods which bore the mark of centuries, over barren hills + which had been licked by the Indian hounds of fire, and along the + banks of streams that the seine had never dragged. A powerful interest + was attached to the Bay Path. It was the channel through which laws + were communicated, through which flowed news from distant friends, and + through which came long, loving letters and messages. That rough + thread of soil, chipped by the blades of a hundred streams, was a + trail that radiated at each terminus into a thousand fibres of love, + and interest, and hope, and memory. Every rod had been prayed over by + friends on the journey and friends at home." + +Born in a home almost by the wayside of the old Bay Path, I feel deeply +the inexplicable charm which attaches itself to these old paths or trails. +I have ridden hundreds of miles on these various Indian paths, and I ever +love to trace the roadway where it is now the broad, travelled road, and +where it turns aside in an overgrown and narrow lane which is to-day +almost as neglected and wild as the old path. There still seems to cling +to it something of the human interest ever found in a foot-path, the +intangible attraction which makes even the simplest foot-path across a +pasture, or up a wooded hill, full of charm, of suggestion, of sentiment. + +It is interesting to see how quickly the colonists acquired horses. Before +John Winthrop died Massachusetts had a cavalry corps. Restrictive measures +were enjoined by the magistrates to improve the breed and limit the number +of horses. These horses were poor and scrubby and small, but before 1635 a +cargo of Flemish draft horses was imported. A characteristic American +breed, the Narragansett Pacers, was reared in Rhode Island. They were +famous saddle-horses, giving ease of motion to the rider, being +sure-footed and most tough and enduring. For a century they were raised in +large numbers and sold at good prices, but became little valued after +trotting-horses were bred and folk drove instead of riding horseback. I +saw the last of the Narragansett Pacers. She died about twenty years ago; +of an ugly sorrel color, with broad back and short legs and a curious +rocking pace, she seemed almost a caricature of a horse, but was, +nevertheless, a source of inordinate pride to her owner. + +Women rode with as much ease and frequency as men. Young girls rode on +side saddles for long journeys. Older women rode behind men on pillions, +which were padded cushions which had a sort of platform stirrup. An +excellent representation of a pillion is here given in Mr. Henry's +charming picture, "Waiting at the Ferry," as well as of an old-time gig +used at the end of the eighteenth and in the early part of the nineteenth +century. + + +[Illustration: Waiting for the Ferry.] + + +Horseflesh was so plentiful that "no one walked save a vagabond or a +fool." Doubtless our national characteristic of never walking a step when +we can ride dates from the days "when we lived under the King." Driving +alone, that is, a man or woman driving for pleasure alone, without a +driver or post-boy, is an American fashion. It was carried back to Europe +by both the French and English officers who were here in Revolutionary +times. The custom was noted with approval by the French in their various +books and letters on this country. They also, La Rochefoucauld among them, +praised our roads. + +Mr. Ernst, an authority upon transportation and postal matters, believes +that our roads in the northern provinces, on the whole, were excellent. He +says that the actual cost of the roads as contained in Massachusetts +records proves that the notion that our New England roads were wretched is +not founded on fact. He notes our great use of pleasure carriages as a +proof of good roads; in 1753 Massachusetts had about seven such carriages +to every thousand persons. The English carriages were very heavy. In +America we adopted the light-weight continental carriages--because our +roads were good. + +The corduroy road was one of the common road improvements made to render +the roads passable by carts and stage-wagons. Marshy places and +chuck-holes were filled up with saplings and logs from the crowded +forests, and whole roads were made of logs which were cut in lengths about +ten or twelve feet long, and laid close to each other across the road. +Many corduroy roads still remain, and some are veritable antiques; in +Canada they still are built. A few years ago I rode many miles over one in +a miner's springless cart over the mountains of the Alexandrite range in +upper Canada, and I deem it the most trying ordeal I ever experienced. + +As soon as there were roads, there were ferries and bridges. Out from +Boston to the main were ferries in 1639 to Chelsea and Charlestown. There +was a "cart-bridge" built by Boston and Roxbury over Muddy River in 1633. +There was a "foot-bridge" also at Scituate, and at Ipswich in 1635. In +1634 a "horse-bridge" was built at Neponset, and others soon followed. +These had a railing on one side only. It was a great step when the "Bay" +granted fifty pounds to Lynn for a cart-bridge where there had been only a +ferry. After King Philip's War, cart-bridges multiplied; there was one in +Scituate, one in Bristol, one in Cambridge. + +These early bridges of provincial days were but insecure makeshifts in +many cases, miserable floating bridges being common across the wide +rivers. In England bridges were poor also. We were to be early in fine +bridge-building, and to excel in it as we have to this day. We were also +in advance of the mother country in laying macadamized roads, in the use +of mail-coaches, in modes of steam travel by water, just as we were in +using flintlock firearms, and other advanced means of warfare. + +The Charles River between Boston and Charlestown was about as wide at the +point where the old ferry crossed as was the Thames at London Bridge, and +Americans were emulative of that structure. Much talking and planning was +done, but no bridge was built across the Charles till after the +Revolution. Then Lemuel Cox, a Medford shipwright, planned and built a +successful bridge in 1786. It was the longest bridge in the world, and +deemed a triumph of engineering. The following year he built the Malden +Bridge, then the fine Essex Bridge at Salem. In 1770 Cox went to Ireland +and built a bridge nine hundred feet long over the deep Foyle at +Londonderry, Ireland. This was another American victory, for the great +English engineer, Milne, had pronounced the deed impossible. This bridge +was of American oak and pine, and was built by Maine lumbermen and +carpenters. + +According to the universal "Gust of the Age"--as Dr. Prince said--the aid +of the Muses was called in to celebrate the opening of the Charlestown +Bridge. This took place on the anniversary of the battle of Bunker Hill, +and a vast feast was given. Broadsides were distributed bearing "poems" as +long as the bridge. Here are a few specimen verses:-- + + "I sing the day in which the BRIDGE + Is finished and done. + Boston and Charlestown lads rejoice + And fire your cannon guns. + + "The BRIDGE is finished now I say + Each other bridge outvies + For London Bridge compared with ours + Appears in dim disguise. + + "Now Boston Charlestown nobly join + And roast a fatted Ox + On noted Bunker Hill combine + To toast our Patriot Cox. + + "May North and South and Charlestown all + Agree with one consent + To love each one like Indian's rum + On publick good be bent." + +A perfect epidemic of bridge-building broke out all over the states. In +our pride we wished to exhibit our superiority over the English +everywhere. Throughout Maryland, Pennsylvania, and upper Virginia, fine +wooden and stone bridges were built. On all the turnpikes the bridges +equalled the roads. Many of those bridges still are in use. The oldest +suspension bridge in America, the "chain-bridge" at Newburyport, +Massachusetts, is still standing. A picture of it here is shown. It is a +graceful bridge, and its lovely surroundings add to its charm. + +The traveller Melish noted specially, in 1812, the fine Trenton Bridge, +"very elegant, nine hundred and seventy feet long, with two carriage +ways"; the West Boston Bridge "three thousand feet long, with a causeway +three thousand more"; the Schuylkill Bridge, which cost over two hundred +thousand dollars. + +So bad was the state of English roads at the end of the eighteenth century +that it took two days' and three nights' incessant travel to get from +Manchester to Glasgow. The crossroads were worse. In many cases when +mail-coaches had been granted, the roads were too poor to receive them. +The ruts, or rather trenches, were up to the axletrees. When a mail-coach +was put on the Holyhead Road in 1808, twenty-two townships were indicted +for having their roads in a dangerous condition. This road had vast +sums spent upon it; in the six years succeeding 1825 it had L83,700 for +"improvements," and repairs were paid by the tolls. Its condition now is +very mean, grass-grown in places, and in ill-repair. + + +[Illustration: Old Chain bridge, Newburyport, Massachusetts.] + + +The system of road-making known as macadamizing received its name from Mr. +Loudon McAdam, who came to England from America in 1783 at a time when +many new roads were being made in Scotland. These roads he studied and in +1816 became road surveyor in Bristol, where he was able to carry his +principles into practice. The leading feature of his system was setting a +limit in size and weight to the stones to be used on the roads, the weight +limit being six ounces; also to prohibit any mixture of clay, earth, or +chalk with the stone. Similar roads had been made in Pennsylvania long +before they were laid in England, and had been tested; and without doubt +McAdam simply followed methods he had seen successfully used in America. +Among others the Salem and Boston Turnpike, the Essex Turnpike (between +Salem and Andover), and the Newburyport Turnpike, all macadamized roads, +were in successful operation before Telford and McAdam had perfected their +systems. + +McAdam's son, Sir James McAdam, was General Superintendent of Metropolitan +Roads in England when, as he expressed it, "the calamity of railways fell +upon us." This "calamity" brought these results: coaches ran less +frequently, and all horse-carriage decreased, toll receipts diminished, +many turnpike roads became bankrupt and passed into possession of towns +and parishes, and are kept in scarcely passable repair. Many English +macadamized roads are only kept in order in half, while the other part of +the road bears weeds and grass. + +The first American turnpike was not in Pennsylvania, as is usually stated, +but in Virginia. It connected Alexandria (then supposed to be the rising +metropolis) with "Sniggers and Vesta's Gaps"--that is, the lower +Shenandoah. This turnpike was started in 1785-86, and Thomas Jefferson +pronounced it a success. In 1787 the Grand Jury of Baltimore reported the +state of the country roads as a public grievance, and the Frederick, +Reisterstown, and York roads were laid out anew by the county as turnpikes +with toll-gates. In 1804 these roads were granted to corporate companies. +Others soon followed, till all the main roads through Maryland were +turnpikes. + +The most important early turnpike was the one known as the National Road +because it was made by the national government. It extended at first from +Cumberland to Wheeling, and was afterward carried farther. When first +opened it was a hundred and thirty miles long, and cost one and +three-quarters millions of dollars. Proposed in Congress in 1797, an act +providing for its construction was passed nine years later, and the first +mail-coach carrying the United States mail travelled over it in August, +1818. It was a splendid road, sixty feet wide, of stone broken to pass +through a three-inch ring, then covered with gravel and rolled down with +an iron roller. One who saw the constructive work on it wrote:-- + + "That great contractor, Mordecai Cochran, with his immortal Irish + brigade--a thousand strong, with their carts, wheelbarrows, picks, + shovels, and blasting-tools, graded the commons and climbed the + mountain side, leaving behind them a roadway good enough for an + emperor." + + +[Illustration: Bridge Toll-board.] + + +Over this National Road journeyed many congressmen to and from Washington; +and the mail contractors, anxious to make a good impression on these +senators and representatives, and thus gain fresh privileges and large +appropriations, ever kept up a splendid stage line. It was on this line +that the phrase "chalking his hat"--or the free pass system--originated. +Mr. Reeside, the agent of the road, occasionally tendered a free ride to +some member of Congress, and devised a hieroglyphic which he marked in +chalk on the representative's hat, in order that none of his drivers +should be imposed upon by forged passes. + +The intent was to extend this road to St. Louis. From Cumberland to +Baltimore the cost of construction fell on certain banks in Maryland, +which were rechartered on condition that they completed the road. Instead +of being a burden to them, it became a lucrative property, yielding twenty +per cent profit for many years. Not only was this road excellently +macadamized, but stone bridges were built for it over rivers and creeks; +the distances were indexed by iron mileposts, and the toll-houses were +supplied with strong iron gates. + +On other turnpikes throughout the country Irish laborers were employed to +dig the earth and break the stone. Until this time Irish immigration had +been slight in this country, and in many small communities where the new +turnpikes passed the first Irish immigrants were stared at as curiosities. + +The story of the old Mohawk Turnpike is one of deep interest. After the +Revolution a great movement of removal to the West swept through New +England; in the winter of 1795, in three days twelve hundred sleighs +passed through Albany bearing sturdy New England people as settlers to the +Genesee Valley. Others came on horseback, prospecting,--farmers with +well-filled saddle bags and pocketbooks. Among those thrifty New +Englanders were two young men named Whetmore and Norton, from Litchfield, +Connecticut, who noted the bad roads over which all this travel passed; +and being surveyors, they planned and eventually carried out a turnpike. +The first charter, granted in 1797, was for the sixteen miles between +Albany and Schenectady. When that was finished, in 1800, the turnpike +from Schenectady to Utica, sixty-eight miles long, was begun. The public +readily subscribed to build these roads; the flow of settlers increased; +the price of land advanced; everywhere activity prevailed. The turnpike +was filled with great trading wagons; there was a tavern at every mile on +the road; fifty-two within fifty miles of Albany, but there were not +taverns enough to meet the demand caused by the great travel. Eighty or +one hundred horses would sometimes be stabled at a single tavern. All +teamsters desired stable-room for their horses; but so crowded were the +tavern sheds that many carried sheets of oilcloth to spread over their +horses at night in case they could not find shelter. + + +[Illustration: Megunticook Turnpike.] + + +Common wagons with narrow tires cut grooves in the macadamized road; so +the Turnpike Company passed free all wagons with tires six inches broad or +wider. + + +[Illustration] + + +These helped to roll down the road, and by law were not required to turn +aside on the road save for wagons with like width of tire. + +The New York turnpikes were traversed by a steady procession of these +great wagons, marked often in great lettering with the magic words which +were in those days equivalent to Eldorado or Golconda--namely, "Ohio," or +"Genesee Valley." Freight rates from Albany to Utica were a dollar for a +hundred and twelve pounds. + +In 1793 the old horse-path from Albany over the mountains to the +Connecticut River was made wide enough for the passage of a coach. +Westward from Albany a coach ran to Whitestone, Oneida County. In 1783 the +first regular mail was delivered at Schenectady, nearly a century after +its settlement. Soon the "mail-stages" ran as far as Whitestone. An +advertisement of one of these clumsy old mail-stages is here shown. We +need not wonder at the misspelling in this advertisement of the name of +the town, for in 1792 the Postmaster-general advertised for contracts to +carry the mail from "Connojorharrie to Kanandarqua." + +There were twelve gates on the "pike" between Utica and Schenectady; at +Schenectady, Crane's Village, Caughnawaga (now Fonda), Schenck's Hollow, +east of Wagner's Hollow road, Garoga Creek, St. Johnsville, East Creek +Bridge, Fink's Ferry, Herkimer, Sterling, Utica. These gates did not swing +on hinges, but were portcullises; a custom in other countries referred to +in the beautiful passage in the Psalms, "Lift up your heads, O ye gates," +etc. + +On every toll-gate was a board with the rates of toll painted thereon. Mr. +Rufus A. Grider gives the list of rates on the Schenectady and Utica +Turnpike, a distance of sixty-eight miles. They seem to me exceedingly +high. + + Cents + "Sheep, per score 8 + Hogs, per score 8 + Cattle, per score 18 + Horses, per score 18 + Mules, per score 18 + Horse and Rider 5 + Tied horses, each 5 + Sulkies 12-1/2 + Chairs 12-1/2 + Chariots 25 + Coaches 25 + Coachers 25 + Phaetons 25 + Two horse Stages 12-1/2 + Four horse Stages 18-1/2 + One horse Wagons 9 + Two horse Wagons 12-1/2 + Three horse Wagons 15-1/2 + Four horse Wagons tires under six inches 75 + Five horse Wagons " " " " 87-1/2 + Six horse Wagons " " " " 1.00 + One horse cart 6 + Two ox cart 6 + Three ox cart 8 + Four ox cart 10 + Six ox cart 14 + One horse sleigh 6 + Two horse or ox sleigh 6 + Three horse or ox sleigh 8 + Four horse or ox sleigh 10 + Five horse or ox sleigh 12 + Six horse or ox sleigh 14" + +The toll-board which hung for many years on a bridge over the Susquehanna +River at Sidney, New York, is shown on page 233. + +Sometimes sign-boards were hung on bridges. One is shown on page 239 which +hung for many years on the wooden bridge at Washington's Crossing at +Taylorsville, Pennsylvania, on the Bucks County side. It was painted by +Benjamin Hicks, of Newtown, a copy of Trumbull's picture of Washington +crossing the Delaware. It was thrown in the garret of a store at +Taylorsville, and rescued by Mr. Mercer for the Bucks County Historical +Society. + + +[Illustration: Bridge Sign-board.] + + +The turnpike charters and toll-rates have revealed one thing to us, that +all single-horse carriages were two-wheeled, such as the sulky, chair, +chaise; while four-wheeled carriages always had at least two horses. + +Citizens and travellers deeply resented these tolls, and ofttimes rose up +against the payment. A toll-keeper in Pelham, Massachusetts, awoke one +morning to find his gate gone. A scrawled bit of paper read:-- + + "The man who stopped the boy when going to the mill, + Will find his gate at the bottom of the hill." + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +PACKHORSE AND CONESTOGA WAGON + + +Our predecessors, the North American Indians, had no horses. An early +explorer of Virginia said that if the country had horses and kine and were +peopled with English, no realm in Christendom could be compared with it. +The crude means of overland transportation common to all savages, the +carrying of burdens on the back by various strappings, was the only mode +known. + +Travel by land in the colonies was for many years very limited in amount, +and equally hazardous and inconvenient. Travel by boat was so greatly +preferred that most of the settlements continued to be made on the banks +of rivers and along the sea-coast. Even perilous canoes were preferable to +the miseries of land travel. + +We were slow in abandoning our water travel and water transportation. +Water lines controlled in the East till 1800, in the West till 1860, and +have now great revival. + +Transportation was wholly done by water. When horses multiplied, +merchandise was drawn short distances in the winter time on crude sledges. +Packhorses were in common use in England and on the Continent, and the +scrubby, enduring horses raised here soon were used as packhorses. Their +use lingered long over the Alleghany Mountains, as it did on the mountains +of the Pacific coast; in fact the advance guard of inland commerce in +America has always employed packhorses. + +The first appearance of the Conestoga wagon in history (though the wagons +were not then called by that name) was in 1755, when General Braddock set +out on his ill-fated expedition to western Pennsylvania. There led thither +no wagon-road, simply an Indian trail for packhorses. Braddock insisted +strenuously to the Pennsylvania Assembly upon obtaining their assistance +in widening the trail to a wagon-road, and also to secure one hundred and +fifty wagons for the army. The cutting of the road was done, but when +returns were made to Braddock at Frederick, Maryland, only twenty-five +wagons could be obtained. Franklin said it was a pity the troops had not +been landed in Philadelphia, since every farmer in the country thereabouts +had a wagon. At Braddock's earnest solicitation, Franklin issued an +ingenious and characteristic advertisement for one hundred and fifty +four-horse wagons, and fifteen hundred saddle- or packhorses, for the use +of this army. The value of transportation facilities at the time is proved +by Franklin's terms of payment, namely: fifteen shillings a day for each +wagon with four horses and driver, and two shillings a day for horse with +saddle or pack. Franklin agreed that the owners should be fairly +compensated for the loss of these wagons and horses if they were not +returned, and was eventually nearly ruined by this stipulation. For the +battle at Braddock's Field was disastrous to the English, and the claims +of the farmers against Franklin amounted to twenty thousand pounds. Upon +his appeal these claims were paid by the Government under order of General +Shirley. Franklin gathered these wagons and horses in York and Lancaster +counties, Pennsylvania, and I doubt if York and Lancaster, England, would +have been as good fields at that date. + + +[Illustration: A Wayside Friend.] + + +Braddock's trail became the famous route for crossing the Alleghany +Mountains for the principal pioneers who settled southwestern Pennsylvania +and western Virginia, and all their effects were carried to their new +homes on packhorses. The only wealth acquired in the wilds by these +pioneers was peltry and furs, and each autumn a caravan of packhorses was +sent over the mountains bearing the accumulated spoils of the +neighborhood, under the charge of a master driver and three or four +assistants. The horses were fitted with pack-saddles, to the hinder part +of which was fastened a pair of hobbles made of hickory withes; and a +collar with a bell was on each horse's neck. The horses' feed of shelled +corn was carried in bags destined to be filled with alum salt for the +return trip; and on the journey down, part of this feed was deposited for +the use of the return caravan. Large wallets filled with bread, jerked +bear's meat, ham, and cheese furnished food for the drivers. At night the +horses were hobbled and turned out into the woods or pasture, and the +bells which had been muffled in the daytime were unfastened, to serve as +a guide to the drivers in the morning. The furs were carried to and +exchanged first at Baltimore as a market; later the carriers went only to +Frederick; then to Hagerstown, Oldtown, and finally to Fort Cumberland. +Iron and steel in various forms, and salt, were the things most eagerly +desired by the settlers. Each horse could carry two bushels of alum salt, +each bushel weighing eighty-four pounds. Not a heavy load, but the horses +were scantily fed. Sometimes an iron pot or kettle was tied on either side +on top of the salt-bag. + +Ginseng, bears' grease, and snakeroot were at a later date collected and +added to the furs and hides. The horses marched in single file on a road +scarce two feet wide; the foremost horse was led by the master of the +caravan, and each successive horse was tethered to the pack-saddle of the +one in front. Other men or boys watched the packs and urged on laggard +horses. + +I do not know the exact mode of lading these packhorses. An English +gentlewoman named Celia Fiennes rode on horseback on a side-saddle over +many portions of England in the year 1695. She thus describes the +packhorses she saw in Devon and Cornwall:-- + + "Thus harvest is bringing in, on horse backe, with sort of crookes of + wood like yokes on either side; two or three on a side stands up in + which they stow ye corne, and so tie it with cords; but they cannot so + equally poise it but ye going of ye horse is like to cast it down + sometimes on ye one side sometimes on ye other, for they load them + from ye neck to ye taile, and pretty high, and are forced to support + it with their hands so to a horse they have two people women as well + as men." + +At a later date this packhorse system became that of common carriers. Five +hundred horses at a time, after the Revolution, could be seen winding over +the mountains. At Lancaster, Harrisburg, Shippensburg, Bedford, Fort Pitt, +and other towns were regular packhorse companies. One public carrier at +Harris Ferry in 1772 had over two hundred horses and mules. When the road +was widened and wagons were introduced, the packhorse drivers considered +it an invasion of their rights and fiercely opposed it. + +It is interesting to note that the trail of the Indians and the +horse-track of these men skilled only in woodcraft were the ones followed +in later years by trained engineers in laying out the turnpikes and +railroads. + +We are prone to pride ourselves in America on many things which we had no +part in producing, on some which are in no way distinctive, and on a few +which are not in the highest sense to our credit. Of the Conestoga wagon +as a perfect vehicle of transportation and as an important historical +factor we can honorably and rightfully be proud. It was a truly American +product evolved and multiplied to fit, perfectly, existing conditions. Its +day of usefulness is past, few ancient specimens exist; and little remains +to remind us of it; the derivative word stogey, meaning hard, enduring, +tough, is a legacy. Stogeys--shoes--are tough, coarse, leather footwear; +and the stogey cigar was a great, heavy, coarse cigar, originally, it is +said, a foot long, made to fit the enduring nerves and appetite of the +Conestoga teamsters. + +This splendid wagon was developed in Pennsylvania by topographical +conditions, by the soft soil, by trade requirements, and by native wit. It +was the highest type of a commodious freight-carrier by horse power that +this or any country has ever known; it was called the Conestoga wagon from +the vicinity in which they were first in common use. + +These wagons had a boat-shaped body with curved canoe-shaped bottom which +fitted them specially for mountain use; for in them freight remained +firmly in place at whatever angle the body might be. This wagon body was +painted blue or slate-color and had bright vermilion red sideboards. The +rear end could be lifted from its sockets; on it hung the feed-trough for +the horses. On one side of the body was a small tool-chest with a slanting +lid. This held hammer, wrench, hatchet, pincers, and other simple tools. +Under the rear axletree were suspended a tar-bucket and water-pail. + +In the interesting and extensive museum of old-time articles of domestic +use gathered intelligently by the Historical Society of Bucks County, +Pennsylvania, are preserved some of the wagon grease-pots or _Tar-lodel_, +which formed part of the furniture of the Conestoga wagon. A tree section +about a foot long and six inches in diameter was bored and scraped out to +make a pot. The outer upper rim was circumscribed with a groove, and +fitted with leather thongs, by which it was hung to the axle of the +wagon. Filled with grease and tar it was ever ready for use. Often a +leather _Tar-lodel_ took the place of this wooden grease-pot. The wheels +had broad tires, sometimes nearly a foot broad. The wagon bodies were +arched over with six or eight bows, of which the middle ones were the +lowest. These were covered with a strong, pure-white hempen cover corded +down strongly at the sides and ends. These wagons could be loaded up to +the top of the bows and carried four to six tons each,--about a ton's +weight to each horse. + + +[Illustration: Conestoga Wagon.] + + +Sleek, powerful horses of the Conestoga breed were used by prosperous +teamsters. These horses, usually from four to seven in number, were often +carefully matched, all dapple-gray or all bay. From Baltimore ran wagons +with twelve horses. They were so intelligent, so well cared for, so +perfectly broken, that they seemed to take pleasure in their work. The +heavy, broad harnesses were costly, of the best leather, trimmed with +brass plates; often each horse had a housing of deerskin or bearskin edged +with scarlet fringe, while the headstall was gay with ribbons and ivory +rings, and colored worsted rosettes. + +Bell-teams were common; an iron or brass arch was fastened upon the hames, +and collar and bells were suspended from it. Each horse save the +saddle-horse had a full set of musical bells tied with gay ribbons; among +these were the curious old ear-bells. In England these ear-bells dangled +two on each side on a strap which passed over the horse's head behind the +ears and buckled into the cheeks of the headstall. On the forehead stood +up from this strap a stiff tuft or brush (a Russian cockade) of colored +horsehair fixed in a brass socket. Even the reins were of high colors, +scarlet and orange and green. The driver walking alongside, or seated +astride the saddle-horse, governed the perfectly broken and intelligent +creatures with a precision and ease that was beautiful to see. A curious +adjustable seat called a lazy-board was sometimes hung at the side of the +wagon, and afforded a precarious resting place. + +These teamsters carried a whip, long and light, which, like everything +used by them, was of the finest and best materials. It had a fine +squirrel-skin or silk "cracker." This whip was carried under the arm, and +the Conestoga horses were guided more by the crack than by the blow. + +All chronicles agree that a fully equipped Conestoga wagon in the days +when those wagons were in their prime was a truly pleasing sight, giving +one that sense of satisfaction which ever comes from the regard of any +object, especially a piece of mechanism, which is perfectly fitted for the +object it is designed to attain. An American poet writes of them:-- + + "The old road blossoms with romance + Of covered vehicles of every grade + From ox-cart of most primitive design + To Conestoga wagons with their fine + Deep-dusted, six-horse teams in heavy gear, + High hames and chiming bells--to childish ear + And eye entrancing as the glittering train + Of some sun-smitten pageant of old Spain." + +The number of these wagons was vast. At one time over three thousand ran +constantly back and forward between Philadelphia and other Pennsylvania +towns. Sometimes a hundred would follow in close row; "the leaders of one +wagon with their noses in the trough of the wagon ahead." These "Regulars" +with fully equipped Conestoga wagons made freighting their constant and +only business. Farmers and teamsters who made occasional trips, chiefly +during the farmers' dull season--the winter--were called "Militia." + +A local poet wrote of them:-- + + "Militia-men drove narrow treads, + Four horses and plain red Dutch beds, + And always carried grub and feed." + +"Grub," food for the driver, and feed for the horses was seldom carried by +the Regulars; but the horses when unharnessed always fed from the long +troughs which were hitched to the wagon pole. + +All these teamsters carried their own blankets, and many carried also a +narrow mattress about two feet wide which they slept upon. This was +strapped in a roll in the morning and put into the wagon. Often the +teamsters slept on the barroom floor around the fireplace, feet to the +fire. Some taverns had bunks with wooden covers around the sides of the +room. The teamster spread his lunch on the top or cover of his bunk; when +he had finished he could lift the lid, and he had a coffinlike box to +sleep in--but this was an unusual luxury. McGowan's Tavern was a favorite +stopping place. The barroom had a double chimney and fire-places; fifteen +feet of blazing hearth meant comfort, and allured all teamsters. The blood +of battle stained the walls and ceiling, which the landlord never removed +to show that he "meant business." + +The Conestoga wagons were in constant use in times of war as well as in +peace. They were not only furnished to Braddock's army, as has been told, +but to the Continental army in the War of the Revolution. President Reed +of Pennsylvania wrote to General Washington in 1780 that "the army had +been chiefly supplied with horses and waggons from this state +(Pennsylvania) during the war," and it was also declared that half the +supplies furnished the army came from the same state. Reed deplored the +fact that a further demand for over one thousand teams was to be made on +them, and said the state could not stand it. + +During the War of 1812 these wagons transported arms, ammunition, and +supplies to the army on the frontier. Long lines of these teams could be +seen carrying solace and reenforcements to the soldiers. + + +[Illustration: THE STAGE WAGGON. + +While the old waggoner is stopping to drink, poor Jack the soldier is +bidding his wife good bye.--She has come a long way with her children to +see him once more: and now is going home again in the waggon. She does not +know whether she shall ever see him again.--Jack was obliged to leave his +country life, and his good master, and his plough and his comfortable +cottage, and his poor wife and little ones to go and be a soldier, and +learn to fight, because _other people_ would quarrel.] + + +In England a huge, clumsy wagon was used for common carrier and passenger +transportation, until our own day. It was inferior to the Conestoga wagon +in detail and equipments. Illustrations from an old print in a child's +story-book are given of these wagons on page 251. Their most marked +characteristic was the width of wheel tire. From the middle colonies the +Conestoga wagon found its way to every colony and every settlement; nor +did its life end in the Eastern states or with the establishment of +railroads. Renamed the "prairie schooner," it carried civilization and +emigration across the continent to the Golden Gate. Till our own day the +white tilts could be seen slowly travelling westward. The bleaching bones +of these wagons may be still seen in our far West, and are as distinct +relics of that old pioneer Western life as are the bones of the buffalo. A +few wagons still remain in Pennsylvania, in Lancaster County; the one +painted by Hovenden in "Westward Ho" is in the collection of the Bucks +County Historical Society. One toiled slowly and painfully, in the year +1899, up the green hillsides of Vermont, bearing two or three old people +and a few shattered household gods--the relics, human and material, of a +family that had "gone West" many years ago. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +EARLY STAGE-COACHES AND OTHER VEHICLES + + +The story of the stage-coach begins at a much later date than that of the +tavern; but the two allies reached the height of their glory together. No +more prosperous calling ever existed than that of landlord of an old-time +stage-tavern; no greater symbol of good cheer could be afforded. Though a +popular historical novel by one of our popular writers shows us the +heroine in a year of the seventeenth century conveyed away from her New +England home in a well-equipped stage-coach, there were no stage-coaches +at that date in New England, nor were they overfrequent in Old England. + +Stow says, in his _Survey of London_ (1633): "Of old time, Coaches were +not known in this Island but Chariots or Whirlicotes." The whirlicote is +described as a cot or bed on wheels, a sort of wheeled litter, and was +used as early as the time of Richard II. The first coach made in England +by Walter Rippen was for the Earl of Rutland, in 1555. The queen had one +the next year, and Queen Elizabeth a state coach eight years later from +the same maker. That splendid association--"The Company of Coach and +Harness Makers," was founded by Charles II. in May, 1667. + + +[Illustration: English Coach, 1747.] + + +Venomous diatribes were set in print against coaches, as is usual with all +innovations, useful and otherwise. Of them the assertions of Taylor the +"Water Poet" are good examples. He said that coaches dammed the streets, +and aided purse-cutting; that butchers could not pass with their cattle; +that market-folk were hindered in bringing victuals to town; that carts +and carriers were stopped; that milkmaids were flung in the dirt; that +people were "crowded and shrowded up against stalls and stoops"--still +coaches continued to be built. + +The early English stage-coaches were clumsy machines. One of the year 1747 +is shown on the opposite page. With no windows, no seats or railing on +top, and an uncomfortable basket rumble behind, they seem crude and +inconvenient enough when compared with the dashing mail-coaches which were +evolved a century later, and were such a favorite subject with English +painters, engravers, and lithographers for many years. Those pictures +expressed, as Dickens said, "past coachfulness: pictures of colored prints +of coaches starting, arriving, changing horses, coaches in the sunshine, +coaches in the snow, coaches in the wind, coaches in the mist and rain, +coaches in all circumstances compatible with their triumph and victory, +but never in the act of breaking down or overturning." + +A copy of one of those prints of an English mail-coach, in the height of +its career, is shown opposite page 256. + +Stage-wagons were used throughout England as a means of cheaper +conveyance. They were intolerably slow and equally clumsy. On page 251 a +leaf from an old-time English story-book shows two of these lumbering +vehicles, which ill compare with the English mail-coaches. + +Coaching days in England have had ample and entertaining record in +instructive and reminiscent books, such as: _Brighton and its Coaches_, by +William C. A. Blew, 1894; _The Brighton Road_, _etc._, by Charles G. +Harper, 1892; _Old Coaching Days_, by Stanley Harris, 1882; _Annals of the +Road_, by Captain Malet, 1876; _Down the Road_, _etc._, by C. T. S. Birch +Reynardson, 1875; _Coaching Days and Coaching Ways_, by W. Outram Tristam, +1888. + +We have no similar anecdotic and personal records of American coaching +life, though we have the two fine books of modern coaching ways entitled +_Driving for Pleasure_, by Francis T. Underhill, and _A Manual of +Coaching_, by Fairman Rogers, both most interesting and valuable. + +We began early in our history to have coaches. Even Governor Bradstreet in +his day rode in a hackney coach. John Winthrop, of Connecticut, had a +private coach in 1685; Sir Edmund Andros had one in Boston in 1687. At the +funeral of the lieutenant-governor in 1732 in Boston there were plenty of +coaches, though there were few in New York; the provincial governors +usually had one. Watson, in his _Annals of Philadelphia_, gives a list of +all private citizens who kept carriages in that city in 1761--there were +but thirty-eight. There were three coaches, two landaus, eighteen +chariots, and fifteen chairs. Eleven years later only eighty-four +Philadelphians had private carriages. In 1794, when the city had a +population of about fifty thousand, eight hundred and forty-seven +carriage-owners appear: among them were found thirty-three coaches and one +hundred and fifty-seven coachees. + +The testimony of the traveller Bennet, who was in Boston in 1740, is most +explicit on the subject of travel and transportation in that city and +vicinity:-- + + "There are several families in Boston that keep a coach and a pair of + horses, and some few drive with four horses; but for chaises and + saddle-horses, considering the bulk of the place, they outdo London. + They have some nimble, lively horses for the coach, but not any of + that beautiful black breed so common in London. Their saddle-horses + all pace naturally, and are generally counted sure-footed; but they + are not kept in that fine order as in England. The common + draught-horses used in carts about the town are very small and poor, + and seldom have their fill of anything but labor. The country carts + and wagons are generally drawn by oxen, from two to six according to + the distance, or the burden they are laden with." + + +[Illustration: Quicksilver Royal Mail, 1835.] + + +The traveller Weld thus described the peculiarly American carriage called +a "coachee":-- + + "The body of it is rather longer than a coach, but of the same shape. + In the front it is left quite open down to the bottom, and the driver + sits on a bench under the roof of the carriage. There are two seats in + it for passengers, who sit in it with their faces to the horses. The + roof is supported by small props which are placed at the corners. On + each side of the door, above the panels, it is quite open; and, to + guard against bad weather, there are curtains which let down from the + roof and fasten to buttons on the outside. The light wagons are in the + same construction, and are calculated to hold from four to twelve + people. The wagon has no doors, but the passengers scramble in the + best way they can over the seat of the driver. The wagons are used + universally for stage-coaches." + +A vehicle often mentioned by Judge Sewall and contemporary writers is a +calash. It was a clumsy thing, an open seat set on a low and heavy pair of +wheels. A curricle had two horses, a chaise one; both had what were called +whip springs behind and elbow springs in front. A whisky was a light body +fixed in shafts which were connected with long horizontal springs by +scroll irons. A French traveller tells of riding around Boston in a +whisky. The chair so often named in letters, wills, etc., was not a +sedan-chair, but was much like a chaise without a top. + +The French chaise was introduced here by the Huguenots before the year +1700. The Yankee "shay" is simply the fancied singular number of the +French chaise. We improved upon the French vehicle, and finally replaced +it by our characteristic carriage, the buggy. + +Chariots were a distinctly aristocratic vehicle, used as in England by +persons of wealth, and deemed a great luxury. One was advertised in Boston +in 1743 as "a very handsome chariot, fit for town or country, lined with +red coffy, handsomely carved and painted, with a whole front glass, the +seat-cloth embroided with silver, and a silk fringe round the seat." It +was offered for sale by John Lucas, a Boston coach-builder, and had +doubtless been built by him. + +The ancient chariot shown on page 259, formerly belonging to John Brown, +the founder of Brown University, is preserved at the old Occupasnetuxet +homestead in Warwick, Rhode Island, securely stored in one of the carriage +houses on the estate, a highly prized relic of days long ago. In this +ancient vehicle General Washington rode from place to place when he made +his visit to Rhode Island in August, 1790, escorted by John Brown, the +ancestor of its present owners. + + +[Illustration: "One Hoss Shay."] + + +The body of this old chariot is suspended on heavy thorough-braces +attached to heavy iron holders as large as a man's wrist, the forward ones +so curved as to allow the forward wheels to pass under them, in order that +the chariot may be turned within a short compass. It has but one seat for +passengers, which will accommodate two persons; and an elevated seat for +the driver, which is separate from the main body. The wheels are heavy, +the hind ones twice the height of the forward ones, the tires of which are +attached to the felloes in several distinct pieces. + + +[Illustration: Washington Chariot.] + + +It is easy to picture the importance attached to buying or owning a +wheeled vehicle in a community which rode chiefly on horseback. +Contemporary evidence of this is often found, such as these entries in the +diary of Rev. Joseph Emerson of Malden. In the winter of 1735 he writes:-- + + "Some talk about my buying a Shay. How much reason have I to watch and + pray and strive against inordinate Affection for the Things of the + World." + +A week later, however, he proudly recalls the buying of the "Shay" for L27 +10_s._, which must have made a decided hole in his year's salary. His +delight in his purchase and possession is somewhat marred by noting that +his parishioners smile as he is drawn past them in his magnificence; it is +also decidedly taken down by the vehicle being violently overturned, +though his wife and he were uninjured. It cost a pretty penny, moreover, +to get it repaired. He scarce gets the beloved but sighed-over "Shay" home +when he thus notes:-- + + "Went to the beach with 3 of the Children in my Shay. The beast being + frighted when we all were out of the shay, overturned and broke it. I + desire--I hope I desire it--that the Lord would teach me suitably to + repent this Providence, to make suitable remarks on it, and to be + suitably affected with it. Have I done well to get me a Shay? Have I + not been too fond & too proud of this convenience? Should I not be + more in my study and less fond of driving? Do I not withold more than + is meet from charity? &c." + +Shortly afterward, as the "beast" continued to be "frighted," he sold his +horse and shay to a fellow-preacher, Rev. Mr. Smith, who--I doubt +not--went through the same elations, depressions, frightings, and +self-scourgings in which the Puritan spirit and horseman's pride so +strongly clashed. + +On May 13, 1718, Jonathan Wardwell's stage-coach left Jonathan Wardwell's +Orange Tree in Boston and ran to Rhode Island--that is, the island proper. +At any rate, it was advertised in Boston newspapers as starting at that +date. In 1721 there was a road-wagon over the same route. In 1737 two +imported stage-coaches were advertised for this road, and doubtless many +travellers used these coaches, which connected with the boats for New +York. + + +[Illustration] + + +The early coaching conveyances were named. In 1767 it was a "stage-chaise" +that ran between Salem and Boston, while a "stage-coach" and "stage-wagon" +were on other short routes out of Boston. In 1772 a "stage-chariot" was on +the road between Boston and Marblehead. "Flying Mail-Stages" came later, +and in 1773 Thomas Beals ran "Mail Stage Carriages between Boston and +Providence." In England there were "Flying-Machines" and "Flying-Waggons." +An old English road-bill dated 1774 ends with this sentence, "The Rumsey +Machine, through Winchester, hung on Steel Springs begins flying on the +3rd of April from London to Poole in One Day." On the Paulus Hook route to +Philadelphia in 1772 the proprietor announced a vehicle "in imitation of a +coach"--and perhaps that is all that any of these carriages could be +rightfully called. + +One of the clearest pictures which has come down to us of travelling in +the early years of our national existence is found in the pages relating +the travels of a young Englishman named Thomas Twining, in the United +States in the year 1795. He journeyed by "stage-waggon" from Philadelphia, +through Chester and Wilmington, to Baltimore, then to Washington, then +back to Philadelphia. + +He fully describes the stage-wagon in which he made these journeys:-- + + "The vehicle was a long car with four benches. Three of these in the + interior held nine passengers. A tenth passenger was seated by the + side of the driver on the front bench. A light roof was supported by + eight slender pillars, four on each side. Three large leather curtains + suspended to the roof, one at each side and the third behind, were + rolled up or lowered at the pleasure of the passengers. There was no + place nor space for luggage, each person being expected to stow his + things as he could under his seat or legs. The entrance was in front + over the driver's bench. Of course the three passengers on the back + seat were obliged to crawl across all the other benches to get to + their places. There were no _backs_ to the benches to support and + relieve us during a rough and fatiguing journey over a newly and + ill-made road." + +Mr. Jansen, who resided in America from 1793 to 1806, wrote a book +entitled _The Stranger in America_. In it he described the coach between +Philadelphia and New York with some distinctness:-- + + "The vehicle, the American stage-coach, which is of like construction + throughout the country, is calculated to hold twelve persons, who sit + on benches placed across with their faces toward the horses. The front + seat holds three, one of whom is the driver. As there are no doors at + the sides, the passengers get in over the front wheels. The first get + seats behind the rest, the most esteemed seat because you can rest + your shaken frame against the back part of the wagon. Women are + generally indulged with it; and it is laughable to see them crawling + to this seat. If they have to be late they have to straddle over the + men seated further in front." + +It will be readily seen that the description of this coach is precisely +like that given by Weld in his _Travels_, and like the picture of it in +the latter book. An excellent representation of this stage-wagon is given +in Mr. Edward Lamson Henry's picture of the Indian Queen Tavern at +Blattensburg, Maryland, a copy of which is shown facing page 33. Cruder +ones may be seen in the various advertisements of eighteenth-century stage +lines. + +The coach-body of the year 1818 had an egg-shaped body and was suspended +on thick leather straps, called thorough-braces, which gave the vehicle a +comparatively easy motion. After being worn these frequently broke, and +one side of the coach would settle. The patient travellers then alighted, +took a rail from an adjoining fence, righted up the body of the coach, and +went on slowly to the next village for repairs. + +This coach had a foot-board for the driver's feet, and a trunk-rack bolted +to the axletrees. One is here shown, and an old cut on page 273. A few +still exist and are in use. + + +[Illustration: Stage-coach of 1818.] + + +Ten years later the fashion of coaches had changed, and of boats, as shown +by the cut on the opposite page. This view is at the first lock on Erie +Canal above Albany. + +All the various forms of coaches were superseded and made obsolete by the +incomparable Concord coach, first built in Concord, New Hampshire, in +1827. + +The story of the Concord coach is one of profound interest, and should be +given in detail. It has justly been pronounced the only perfect passenger +vehicle for travelling that has ever been built. To every state and +territory in the Union, to every country in the world where there are +roads on which such a coach could run, have these Concord coaches been +sent. In spite of steam and electric cars they still are manufactured in +large numbers, and are still of constant use. There is really very little +difference between the older Concord coaches, such as the one used by +Buffalo Bill, shown on page 266, and one of the stanch, well-equipped +modern ones used in mountain travel, such as is shown facing page 268. + + +[Illustration: Stage-coach of 1828.] + + +The word stage-coach was originally applied to a coach which ran from +station to station over a number of stages of the road, usually with fresh +horses for each stage. It was not used to designate a coach which ran only +a short distance. Mr. Fairman Rogers notes as an example of the curious +changes of language the custom in New York of calling a short-route +omnibus a stage. We all recall the tottering Broadway stages; we still +have the Fifth Avenue stages with us. This debased use of the word is not +an Americanism, nor is it modern. Swift speaks of riding in the six-penny +stage; and Cowper has a similar usage. The word drag, originally applied +to a public road-coach, now is used for a coach for private driving. The +incorrect American use of the word tally-ho, as a general name for a coach +and four, dates from 1876, when Colonel Delancey Kane first ran his +road-coach from the Brunswick Hotel in New York to Pelham. It chanced to +be named Tally-ho after English coaches of that name, and the word was +adopted from the individual to a class. Barge, as applied to a long +omnibus, is apparently a modern Americanism. I heard it first about ten +years ago. Alighting from the cars, travel-tired and dusty, at a New +England coast town one July afternoon, we asked the distance to a certain +hotel; and we were told it was four miles, and we could go either by sloop +or barge, and that "the barge got there first." We gladly welcomed the +possibility of closing our journey with a short, refreshing water trip, +but decided that the sloop might be delayed by adverse winds, and we would +trust to the barge, which we inferred was propelled by steam. On stating +our preference for the barge we were waved into a long, heavy omnibus +harnessed with a "spike" team of three jaded horses that soon stumbled +along the dry road, choking us with the dust of their slow progress. After +riding nearly half an hour we called out despondingly to the driver, "When +do we reach the wharf?" "We ain't goin' to the wharf," he drawled. "Where +do we take the barge then, and when?" "You're a-ridin' in the barge now," +he answered, and thus we added another example to our philological +studies. + + +[Illustration: Old Concord Coach.] + + +Our first conveyance of goods and persons was by water, and the word +transportation was one of our sea terms applied to inland traffic. Mr. +Ernst has pointed out that many sea terms besides the word barge have +received a land use. "The conductor shouts his marine 'All aboard,' and +railroad men tell of 'shipping' points that have nothing to do with +navigation. We ship by rail, and out West they used to have 'prairie +schooners.' Of late we go by 'trolley,' and that word is borrowed from the +sailors. Our locomotives have a 'pilot' each, and even 'freight' has a +marine origin." + +The first line of stages established between New York and Philadelphia +made the trip in about three days. The stage was simply a Jersey wagon +without springs. The quaint advertisement of the route appeared in the +_Weekly Mercury_ of March 8, 1759:-- + + "Philadelphia Stage Waggon and New York Stage Boat perform their + stages twice a week. John Butler with his waggon sets out on Monday + from his house at the sign of the 'Death of the Fox' in Strawberry + Alley, and drives the same day to Trenton Ferry, where Francis Holman + meets him, and the passengers and goods being shifted into the waggon + of Isaac Fitzrandolph, he takes them to the New Blazing Star to Jacob + Fitzrandolph's the same day, where Rubin Fitzrandolph, with a boat + well suited will receive them and take them to New York that night: + John Butler, returning to Philadelphia on Tuesday with the passengers + and goods delivered to him by Francis Holman, will set out again for + Trenton Ferry on Thursday, and Francis Holman, &c., will carry his + passengers and goods with the same expedition as above to New York." + +The driver of this flying machine, old Butler, was an aged huntsman who +kept a kennel of hounds till foxes were shy of Philadelphia streets, when +his old sporting companions thus made a place for him. + +With such a magnificent road as the National Road, it was natural there +should be splendid coaching upon it. At one time there were four lines of +stage-coaches on the Cumberland Road: the National Line, Pioneer, Good +Intent, and June Bug. Curiously enough, no one can find out, no one is +left to tell, why or wherefore the latter absurd and undignified name was +given. An advertisement of the "Pioneer Fast Stage Line" is given on page +270. Relays of horses were made every ten or twelve miles. It was +bragged that horses were changed ere the coach stopped rocking. No heavy +luggage was taken, and at its prime but nine passengers to a coach. These +were on what was called Troy coaches. The Troy coach was preceded by a +heavy coach built at Cumberland, and carrying sixteen persons, and a +lighter egg-shaped vehicle made at Trenton; and it was succeeded by the +famous Concord coach. Often fourteen coaches started off together loaded +with passengers. The mail-coach had a horn; it left Wheeling at six in the +morning, and twenty-four hours later dashed into Cumberland, one hundred +and thirty-two miles away. The mail was very heavy. Sometimes it took +three to four coaches to transport it; there often would be fourteen +lock-bags and seventy-two canvas sacks. + + +[Illustration: Concord Coach at Toll Gate.] + + +The drivers had vast rivalry. Here, as elsewhere all over the country, the +test of their mettle was the delivery of the President's message. There +was powerful reason for this rivalry; the letting of mail contracts hinged +on the speed of this special delivery. Dan Gordon claimed he carried the +message thirty-two miles in two hours and twenty minutes, changing teams +three times. Dan Noble professed to have driven from Wheeling to +Hagerstown, one hundred and eighty-five miles, in fifteen hours and a +half. + +The rivalry of drivers and coach-owners extended to passengers, who became +violent partisans of the road on which they travelled, and a threatening +exhibition of bowie knives and pistols was often made. When the Baltimore +and Ohio Railroad was completed to Wheeling, these stage-coaches had +their deathblow. + + +[Illustration] + + +The expense of travelling in 1812 between Philadelphia and Pittsburg, a +distance of two hundred and ninety-seven miles, was twenty dollars by +stage with way-expenses of seven dollars, and it took six days. The +expense by wagon was five dollars a hundred weight for persons and +property, and the way-expenses were twelve dollars, for it took twenty +days. + +In England, in the prime days of coaching, rates were fourpence or +fivepence a mile inside, and twopence or threepence outside. The highest +fares were of course on the mail-coaches and fast day-coaches; the lower +rates were on the heavy night-coaches. + +At an early date there were good lines of conveyance between Boston and +Providence, and from Providence to other towns. The early editions of old +almanacs tell of these coaching routes. _The New England Almanack_ for +1765 gave two routes to Hartford, the distances being given from tavern to +tavern. _The New England Town & County Almanack_ for 1769 announced a +coach between Providence and Norwich, "a day's journey only," and two +coaches a week between Providence and Boston, also performing this journey +in a day. In 1793, Israel Hatch announced daily stages between the two +towns; he had "six good coaches and experienced drivers," and the fare was +but a dollar. He closed his notice, "He is also determined, at the +expiration of the present contract for carrying the mail from Providence +to Boston, to carry it gratis, which will undoubtedly prevent any further +under-biddings of the Envious." + +"The Envious" was probably Thomas Beal, whose rival carriages were +pronounced "genteel and easy." His price was nine shillings "and less if +any other person will carry them for that sum." When passenger steamboats +were put on the route between Providence and New York these lines of +coaches became truly important. Often twenty full coach-loads were carried +each way each day. The editor of the _Providence Gazette_ wrote with +pride, "We were rattled from Providence to Boston in four hours and fifty +minutes--if any one wants to go faster he may send to Kentucky and charter +a streak of lightning." But with speed came increased fares--three dollars +a trip. This exorbitant sum soon produced a rival cheaper line--at two +dollars and a half a ticket. The others then lowered to two dollars, and +the two lines alternated in reduction till the conquered old line +announced it would carry the first booked applicants for nothing. The new +stage line then advertised that they would carry patrons free of expense, +and furnish a dinner at the end of the journey. The old line was rich and +added a bottle of wine to a like offer. + +Mr. Shaffer, a fashionable teacher of dancing and deportment in Boston, an +arbiter in social life, and man about town, had a gay ride on Monday to +Providence, a good dinner, and the promised bottle of wine. On Tuesday he +rode more gayly back to Boston, had his dinner and wine, and on Wednesday +started to Providence again. With a crowd of gay young sparks this frolic +continued till Saturday, when the rival coach lines compromised and signed +a contract to charge thereafter two dollars a trip. + + +[Illustration: New Omnibus "Accommodation."] + + +In 1818 all the lines in eastern Massachusetts and New Hampshire, and +others in Maine and Rhode Island, were formed into a syndicate, the +Eastern Stage Company; and it had an unusual career. The capital stock +consisted of four hundred and twenty-five shares at a hundred dollars +each. Curiously enough, the contracts and agreements signed at the time of +the union do not ever mention its object; it might be a sewing-machine +company, or an oil or ice trust. It had at once an enormous business, for +it was born great. The profits were likewise enormous; the directors' +meetings were symposiums of satisfaction, and stockholders gloated over +their incomes. In 1829 there were seventy-seven stage-coach lines from +Boston; the fare to Albany (about two hundred miles) was six dollars, and +eight dollars and seventy-five cents by the "Mail Line." The fare to +Worcester was two dollars; to Portland, eight dollars; to Providence, two +dollars and a half. In 1832 there were one hundred and six coach lines +from Boston. The _Boston Traveller_ was started as a stage-coach paper in +1825, whence its name. Time-tables and stage-lists were issued by Badger +and Porter from 1825 to 1836. After twelve years, the Eastern Stage +Company was incorporated in New Hampshire, but even then luck was turning. +There was no one shrewd enough to heed the warning which might have been +heard through the land, "Look out for the engine," and soon the assets of +the stage company were as dust and ashes; everything was sold out at vast +loss, and in 1838--merely a score of years, not even "come of age"--the +Eastern Stage Company ceased to exist. On its prosperous routes, during +the first ten years, myriads of taverns had sprung up; vast brick stables +had been built for the hundreds of horses, scores of blacksmiths' forges +had been set up, and some of these shops were very large. These buildings +were closed as suddenly as they were built, and rotted unused. + +This period of the brilliant existence of the Eastern Stage Company was +also the date of the coaching age of England, given by Stanley Harris as +from 1820 to 1840. The year 1836, which saw the publication of _Pickwick_, +wherein is so fine a picture of old coaching days, was the culminating +point of the mail-coach system. Just as it was perfected it was rendered +useless by the railroad. + +In the earliest colonial days, before the official appointment of any +regular post-rider, letters were carried along the coast or to the few +inland towns by chance travellers or by butchers who made frequent trips +to buy and sell cattle. John Winthrop, of New London, sent letters by +these butcher carriers. + +In 1672 "Indian posts" carried the Albany winter mail. With a +retrospective shiver we read a notice of 1730 that "whoever inclines to +perform the foot-post to Albany this winter may make application to the +Post-Master." Lonely must have been his solitary journey up the solemn +river, skating along under old Cro' Nest. + +The first regular mounted post from New York to Boston started January 1, +1673. He had two "port-mantles" which were crammed with letters, "small +portable goods and divers bags." It was enjoined that he must be active, +stout, indefatigable, and honest. He changed horses at Hartford. He was +ordered to keep an eye out for the best roads, best ways through forests, +for ferries, fords, etc., to watch keenly for all fugitive servants and +deserters, and to be kind to all persons travelling in his company. During +the month that he was gone the mail was collected in a box in the office +of the Colonial Secretary. The arrivals and departure of these posts were +very irregular. In 1704 we read, "Our Philadelphia post (to New York) is a +week behind, and not yet com'd in." + +In unusual or violent weather the slowness of mail carriage was appalling. +Salem and Portsmouth are about forty miles apart. In March, 1716, the +"post" took nine days for one trip between the two towns and eight days +the other. He was on snowshoes, and he reported drifts from six to +fourteen feet deep; but even so, four to five miles a day was rather +minute progress. + +It is pleasant to read in the _Winthrop Letters_ and other correspondence +of colonial days of "journeys with the Post." Madam Knight rode with him, +as did many another fair traveller with his successors at later dates. A +fragment of a journal of a young college graduate, written in 1790, tells +of "over-taking the Post, who rode with six Dames, neither young nor fair, +from Hartford to Boston." He tells that the patient Squire of Dames was +rather surly when joked about his harem. Mrs. Quincy tells of travelling, +when she was a little girl, with the Post, who occupied his monotonous +hours by stocking-knitting. + + +[Illustration] + + +The post-riders, whose advertisements (one of which is here shown) can be +found in many old-time newspapers, were private carriers. They "Resolv'd +to ride Post for the good of the Publick," etc. They were burdened by law +with restrictions, which they calmly evaded, for they materially +decreased the government revenue in sealed mail-matter, though they were +supposed to be merchandise carriers only. + +In 1773, Hugh Finlay was made postal surveyor by the British government of +the mail service from Quebec, Canada, to St. Augustine, Florida. He made a +very unfavorable report of postal conditions. He declared that postmasters +often had no offices, that tavern taprooms and family rooms in private +houses were used as gathering places for the mail. Letters were thrown +carelessly on an open table or tavern bar, for all comers to pull over +till the owners called; and fresh letters were irregularly forwarded. The +postmaster's salary was paid according to the number of letters he +handled, and of course the private conveyance of letters sadly diminished +his income. Private mail-carriage was forbidden by law, but the very +government post-riders were the chief offenders. Persons were allowed to +carry merchandise at their own rates for their own profit, so post-riders, +wagon-drivers, butchers, ship captains, or any one could carry large +sealed letters, provided they were tied to any bundle or box. Sham bundles +of paper or straw, weighing little, were thus used as kite-tails to the +letters. The government post-rider between Newport and Boston took +twenty-six hours to go eighty miles, carried all way-letters to his own +profit, and bought and sold on commission. If he had been complained of, +the informer was in danger of tarring and feathering. It was deemed all a +part of the revolt of the provinces against "slavery and oppression." The +rider between Saybrook and New York had been in his calling forty-six +years. He carried on a money exchange to his own profit, and pocketed all +way-postage. He superintended the return of horses for travellers; and +Finlay says he was coolly waiting, when he saw him, for a yoke of oxen +that he was going to transfer for a customer. No wonder the mails were +slow and uncertain. + +In 1788 it took four days for mail to go from New York to Boston--in +winter much longer. George Washington died on the 14th of December, 1799. +As an event of universal interest throughout the nation, the news was +doubtless conveyed with all speed possible by fleetest messenger. The +knowledge of this national loss was not known in Boston till December 24. +Two years later there was a state election in Massachusetts of most +profound interest, when party feeling ran high. It took a month, however, +to get in all the election returns, even in a single state. + +The first advertisement or bill of the first coaching line between Boston +and Portsmouth reads thus:-- + + "_For the Encouragement of Trade from Portsmouth to Boston._ + + "A LARGE STAGE CHAIR, + + "With two horses well equipped, will be ready by Monday the 20th inst. + to start out from _Mr. Stavers_, Inn-holder at the sign of the _Earl + of Halifax_, in this town for Boston, to perform once a week; to lodge + at Ipswich the same night; from thence through Medford to Charlestown + Ferry; to tarry at Charlestown till Thursday morning, so as to return + to this town next day: to set out again the Monday following: It will + be contrived to carry four persons besides the driver. In case only + two persons go, they may be accommodated to carry things of bulk and + value to make a third or fourth person. The Price will be _Thirteen + Shillings_ and _Six Pence_ sterling for each person from hence to + Boston, and at the same rate of conveyance back again; though under no + obligation to return in the same week in the same manner. + + "Those who would not be disappointed must enter their names at _Mr. + Stavers'_ on Saturdays, any time before nine in the evening, and pay + one half at entrance, the remainder at the end of the journey. Any + gentleman may have business transacted at Newbury or Boston with + fidelity and despatch on reasonable terms. + + "As gentlemen and ladies are often at a loss for good accommodations + for travelling from hence, and can't return in less than three weeks + or a month, it is hoped that this undertaking will meet with suitable + encouragement, as they will be wholly freed from the care and charge + of keeping chairs and horses, or returning them before they had + Finished their business. + + "Portsmouth, April, 1761." + +A picture and account of the Stavers Inn are given on page 176. + +These stages ran throughout the winter, except in bad weather, and the +fare was then three dollars a trip. This winter trip was often a hard one. +We read at one time of the ferries being so frozen over that travellers +had to make a hundred-mile circuit round by Cambridge. This line of stages +prospered; and two years later "The Portsmouth Flying Stage-coach," which +held six "insides," ran with four or six horses. The fare was the same. + + +[Illustration: Old Coach and Sign-board, Barre, Massachusetts.] + + +On this Stavers line were placed the first mail-coaches under the English +crown. When Finlay (the post-office surveyor just referred to) examined +the mail-service in the year 1773, he found these mail-coaches running +between Boston and Portsmouth. Mr. Ernst says, "The Stavers mail-coach was +stunning, used six horses in bad weather, and never was late." These +coaches were built by Paddock, the Boston coach-builder and Tory. Stavers +also was a Tory, and during the Revolution both fled to England, and may +have carried the notion of the mail-coach across the sea. At any rate the +first English mail-coach was not put on the road till 1784; it ran between +Bristol and London. It was started by a theatrical manager named Palmer, +office work or coaching. The service was very imperfect and far from +speedy. + +Herbert Joyce, historian of the British post-office, says, "In 1813 there +was not a single town in the British kingdom at the post-office of which +absolutely certain information could have been obtained as to the charge +to which a letter addressed to any other town would be subject." The +charge was regulated by the distance; but distances seemed movable, and +the letter-sender was wholly at the mercy of the postmaster. The +government of the United States early saw the injustice of doubt in these +matters, and Congress ordered a careful topographical survey, in 1811-12, +of the post-road from Passamaquoddy to St. Mary's, and also established +our peerless corps of topographical engineers. Foreigners were much +impressed with the value of this survey, and an old handkerchief, printed +in 1815 by R. Gillespie, at "Anderston Printfield near Glasgow," proves +that the practical effects of the survey were known in England before the +English people had a similar service. + +This handkerchief gives an interesting statement of postal rates and +routes at the beginning of this century. Around the edge is a floral +border, with the arms of the United States, the front and reverse of the +dollar of 1815, a quartette of ships of war, and portraits of Washington, +Adams, Jefferson, and "Maddison" intertwined. + +Its title is "A Geographical View of All the Post Towns in the United +States of America and Their Distance from Each Other According to the +Establishment of the Postmaster General in the Year 1815." By an +ingenious arrangement of the towns on the main coast line and those on the +cross post-roads, the distance from one of these points to any other could +easily be ascertained. The "main line of post towns" extended "from +Passamaquoddy in the District of Maine to Sunbury in the State of +Georgia." + +The object in publishing such a table as this was to make a durable record +by which it was possible for the people to compute easily and with a handy +helper what the cost of postage on letters would be. The following "rates +of postage" are given on the old handkerchief:-- + + "Single Letter conveyed by land for any distance not exceeding 10 + miles, 6 cents. + + Over 10, not exceeding 60 miles, 8 cents. + " 60 " " 100 " 10 " + " 100 " " 150 " 12 " + " 150 " " 200 " 15 " + " 200 " " 250 " 17 " + " 250 " " 350 " 20 " + " 350 " " 450 " 22 " + For 450 " 25 "" + +Double letters are charged double; and triple letters, three times these +rates, and a packet weighing one ounce avoirdupois at the rate of four +single letters. + +Let us compare conditions in these matters in America with those in +Scotland. While England had, in the first half of the eighteenth century, +coaches in enough number that country folk knew what they looked like, +Scotland was barren not only of coaches but of carriages. In 1720 there +were no chariots or chaises north of the Tay. Not till 1749 was there a +coach between Edinburgh and Glasgow; this journey of forty-six miles +could, by the end of the century, be done in twelve hours. In 1754 there +was once a month a coach from Edinburgh to London; it took twelve to +sixteen days to accomplish this journey, and was so perilous that +travellers made their wills before setting out. There were few carts and +no such splendid wagons as our Conestogas. Cadgers carried creels of goods +on horseback; and sledges, or creels borne on the backs of women, were the +means of transportation in northern Scotland until the end of the +eighteenth century. These sledges had tumbling wheels of solid wood a foot +and a half in diameter, revolving with the wooden axletree, and held +little more than a wheelbarrow. + +Scotch inns were as bad as the roads; "mean hovels with dirty rooms, dirty +food, dirty attendants." Servants without shoes or stockings, greasy +tables with no cloths, butter thick with cows' hairs, no knives and forks, +a single drinking-cup for all at the table, filthy smells and sights, were +universal; and this when English inns were the pleasantest places on +earth. + +Mail-carriage was even worse than personal transportation; hence +letter-writing was not popular. In 1746 the London mail-bag once carried +but a single letter from Edinburgh. So little attention was paid to the +post that as late as 1728 the letters were sometimes not taken from the +mail bag, and were brought back to their original starting place. Scotland +was in a miserable state of isolation and gloom until the Turnpike Road +Act was passed; the building of good roads made a complete revolution of +all economic conditions there, as it has everywhere. + + +[Illustration: Quincy Railway Pitcher.] + + +The first railway in America was the Quincy Railroad, or the "Experiment" +Railroad, built to carry stones to Bunker Hill Monument. A tavern-pitcher, +commemorative of this Quincy road, is shown here. Two views of the +Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, printed on plates and platters in rich dark +blue, are familiar to china collectors. One shows a stationary engine at +the top of a hill with a number of little freight cars at a very singular +angle going down a steep grade. The other displays a primitive locomotive +with coachlike passenger cars. + +All the first rail-cars were run by horse-power. + +Peter Parley's _First Book on History_ says, in the chapter on Maryland:-- + + "The people are building what is called a railroad. This consists of + iron bars laid down along the ground and made fast, so that carriages + with small wheels may run upon them with facility. In this way one + horse will be able to draw as much as ten horses on a common road. A + part of the railroad is already done, and if you choose to take a ride + upon it you can do so. You enter a car something like a stage, and + then you will be drawn along by two horses at a speed of twelve miles + per hour." + +The horse-car system, in its perfection, did not prevail until many years +after the establishment of steam cars. It is curious to note how suddenly, +in our own day, the horse cars were banished by cars run by electricity; +as speedily as were stage-coaches cast aside by steam. A short time ago a +little child of eight years came running to me in much excitement over an +unusual sight she had seen in a visit to a small town--"a trolley car +dragged by horses." + +Many strange plans were advanced for the new railways. I have seen a +wood-cut of a railway-coach rigged with masts and sails gayly running on a +track. I don't know whether the inventor of this wind-car ever rigged his +car-boat and tried to run it. Another much-derided suggestion was that the +motive power should be a long rope or chain, and the notion was scorned, +but we have lived to see many successful lines of cars run by cable. + +Kites and balloons also were seriously suggested as motive powers. It was +believed that in a short time any person would be permitted to run his own +private car or carriage over the tracks, by paying toll, as a coach did on +a turnpike. + +The body of the stage-coach furnished the model for the first passenger +cars on the railway. A copy is here given of an old print of a train on +the Veazie Railroad, which began to run from Bangor, Maine, in 1836. The +road had two locomotives of Stevenson's make from England. They had no +cabs when they arrived here, but rude ones were attached. They burned +wood. The cars were also English; a box resembling a stage-coach was +placed on a rude platform. Each coach carried eight people. The passengers +entered the side. The train ran about twelve miles in forty minutes. The +rails, like those of other railroads at the time, were of strap-iron +spiked down. These spikes soon rattled loose, so each engine carried a man +with a sledge hammer, who watched the track, and when he spied a spike +sticking up he would reach down and drive it home. These "snake heads," as +the rolled-up ends of the strap-iron were called, sometimes were forced up +through the cars and did great damage. "Snake heads" were as common in +railway travel as snags in the river in early steamboating. + + +[Illustration: Veazie Railway.] + + +The Boston and Lowell, Boston and Providence, and Boston and Worcester +railroads were all opened in 1835. The locomotive used on the Boston and +Worcester road was called the Meteor. The cars were coach-shaped and ran +on single trucks. The freight cars were short vans or wagon-bodies covered +with canvas like a Conestoga wagon. A picturesque view of an old railway +train is given opposite page 288 in the picture painted by Mr. Edward +Lamson Henry, called "The Arrival of the Train." It shows a train at a way +station between Harrisburg and Lancaster, in the year 1839, and a +comparison between the coaches on the track and the coach and horses +waiting near by will show that the same model served for both. + +Accidents were many on these early roads; some were fatal, some were +ridiculous. The clumsy locomotive often broke down, and horses and oxen +had to be impressed to drag the cars to the nearest station and repair +shop. An old print showing "Uncle Ame Morris's" oxen serving as a +locomotive on a railroad near Danbury, Connecticut, is given on page 289. +Coaching accidents had seldom been fatal, and ancient citizens were +appalled at the deaths on the rail. Never was the cry of "the good old +times" so loudly heard as in the early days of the railroad. Especially +were the injuries by escaping steam and by communicated fire deemed +horrible and unbearable. An old-school blood thus summarized all these +sentiments: "You got upset in a coach--and there you were! You get upset +in a rail-car--and, damme, where are you?" + +The roadbed of the track was laid thus, as shown in the words of a State +Report made to the Massachusetts Legislature on January 16, 1829:-- + + "A continuous stone wall, laid so deep in the ground as not to be + moved by the effects of the frost; and surmounted by a rail of split + granite about a foot in thickness and depth, with a bar of iron on top + of it of sufficient thickness for the carriage wheels to run." + +My father, who rode on one of these rock-bedded railways, told me that the +jarring was inexpressibly tiring and even distressing. They were in use +but a short time. But the cars had no springs, and the jarring continued +to some degree. It produced headaches and an incessant itching of the +skin. The primitive brake-power was a hand or foot brake, and a car +stopped with a jolting which was almost as severe as the shock felt to-day +in a collision. A more primitive brake-power was in vogue on the Newcastle +and Frenchtown Railroad, where the engineer would open his safety valve at +each station and several strong negroes would seize the end of the train +and hold it back while the station agent thrust sticks of wood through the +wheel-spokes. Crooked roads were favored, so the engineer and conductor +could "look back and see if the train was all right." These were easily +managed with the short coach-like railway carriages. + + +[Illustration: The Arrival of the Train.] + + +It would be impossible to repeat all the objections against the +establishment of the railroads, besides the loss of life. These objections +far outnumbered those made against coaches centuries previous. The +farmers would be ruined. Horses would have to be killed because wholly +useless. There would therefore be no market for oats or hay. Hens would +not lay eggs on account of the noise. It would cause insanity. There would +be constant fires from the sparks from the engine. It was declared that no +car could ever advance against the wind. The _Boston Courier_ of June 27, +1827, said in an editorial:-- + + "The project of a railroad from Boston to Albany is impracticable, as + every one knows who knows the simplest rule of arithmetic, and the + expense would be little less than the market value of the whole + territory of Massachusetts; and which, if practicable, every person of + common sense knows would be as useless as a railroad from Boston to + the moon." + + +[Illustration: Uncle Ame Morris' Oxen serving as a Locomotive.] + + +Captain Basil Hall rode by stage-coach in 1829 over the present route of +the Boston and Albany Railroad. He described the hills, ravines, and +rivers, and said, "Those Yankees talk of constructing a railroad over this +route; as a practical engineer, I pronounce it simply impossible." + +All the sentimental objections of all the sentimental objectors may be +summed up in the words of the best beloved of all coachmen, Tony Weller:-- + + "I consider that the rail is unconstitutional, and a inwader o' + privileges. As to the comfort--as an old coachman I may say it--veres + the comfort o' sitting in a harm-chair, a lookin' at brick walls, and + heaps o' mud, never comin' to a public 'ouse, never seein' a glass o' + ale, never goin' thro' a pike, never meetin' a change o' no kind + (hosses or otherwise) but always comin' to a place ven you comes to + vun at all, the werry picter o' the last! As to the honor and dignity + o' travellin', vere can that be vithout a coachman, and vats the rail + to sich coachmen as is sometimes forced to go by it, but a outrage and + a insult! And as to the ingen, a nasty, wheezin', creakin', gaspin', + puffin', bustin' monster always out o' breath, with a shiny green and + gold back like a onpleasant beetle; as to the ingen as is alvays a + pourin' out red-hot coals at night and black smoke in the day, the + sensiblest thing it does, in my opinion, is ven there's somethin' in + the vay, and it sets up that 'ere frightful scream vich seems to say, + 'now 'eres two hundred and forty passengers in the werry greatest + extremity o' danger, and 'eres their two hundred and forty screams in + vun!'" + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +TWO STAGE VETERANS OF MASSACHUSETTS + + +There still stands in Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, at the junction of the +Westborough road with the old "King's Highway," a weatherbeaten but +dignified house, the Pease Tavern; it is shown on page 292. This house was +for many years a popular resort for the teamsters and travellers who +passed back and forth on what was then an important road. Behind the house +was originally a large shed with roof and open sides for the protection +from rain or snow of the great numbers of loaded wagons. In another +covered shed at the side of the house were chairs and tables for the +teamsters and shelves for any baggage they took from their wagons. This +shed for the accommodation of the teamsters would indicate to me that they +were not so unreservedly welcome at this tavern as at many others on the +route. Miss Ward, in her entertaining book, _Old Times in Shrewsbury_, +says that under this shed, in the side boards of the house, slight holes +were cut one above the other to a window in the second story. These holes +were large enough to hold on by, and to admit the toe of a man's boot; by +dexterous use of hands and feet the teamsters were expected to climb up +the outside wall to the window, and thus reach their sleeping apartments +without passing through the hall and interior of the house. This was, it +was asserted, for the convenience both of the family and the travellers. +In the Wayside Inn at Sudbury a small special staircase winding in the +corner of the taproom led to the four "drivers' bedrooms" above. One of +the upper rooms in the Pease Tavern was a dancing hall. Across this hall +from wall to wall was a swing partition which could be hooked up to the +ceiling when a dance was given, but at other times divided the hall into +two large bedrooms. This was a common appurtenance of the old-time tavern. + + +[Illustration: Pease Tavern.] + + +Major John Farrar, an officer in the Revolution, first kept this +Shrewsbury inn, and greatly rejoiced when Washington visited it in his +triumphal journey through the country. His successor as landlord, Levi +Pease, was a man of note in the history of travel and transportation +systems in Massachusetts. He was a Shrewsbury blacksmith who served +through the entire Revolutionary War in a special function--which might be +entitled a confidential transportation agent: he transferred important +papers, carried special news, purchased horses and stores, foraged for the +army, and enjoyed the full confidence of the leaders, especially of +Lafayette. In 1783, when peace was established, he planned to establish a +line of stages between Boston and Hartford, and thus turn his knowledge of +roads and transportation to account. Wholly without funds, he found no one +ready to embark in the daring project and work with him, save one young +stage-driver, Reuben Sykes or Sikes, who braved parental opposition, as +well as universal discouragement, and started with a stage-wagon from +Hartford to Boston at the same hour that Captain Pease set out from Boston +to Hartford. Each made the allotted trip in four days. The fare was ten +dollars a trip. Empty stages were soon succeeded by prosperous trips, and +in two years the penniless stage agent owned the Boston Inn opposite the +Common, in Boston, on the spot where St. Paul's Church now stands. The +line was soon extended to New York. + + +[Illustration: Old Arcade, Shrewsbury, Massachusetts.] + + +Josiah Quincy gives a far from alluring picture of Pease's coaches in the +earliest days:-- + + "I set out from Boston in the line of stages lately established by an + enterprising Yankee, Pease by name, which at that day was considered a + method of transportation of wonderful expedition. The journey to New + York took up a week. The carriages were old and shackling, and much of + the harness made of ropes. One pair of horses carried the stage + eighteen miles. We generally reached our resting place for the night, + if no accident intervened, at ten o'clock, and after a frugal supper + went to bed with a notice that we should be called at three the next + morning, which generally proved to be half-past two. Then, whether it + snowed or rained, the traveller must rise and make ready by the help + of a horn-lantern and a farthing candle, and proceed on his way over + bad roads, sometimes with a driver showing no doubtful symptoms of + drunkenness, which good-hearted passengers never fail to improve at + every stopping place by urging upon him another glass of toddy. Thus + we travelled, eighteen miles a stage, sometimes obliged to get out and + help the coachman lift the coach out of a quagmire or rut, and arrived + at New York after a week's hard travelling, wondering at the ease as + well as expedition of our journey." + +It should be added to this tale that young Quincy was in love, and on his +way to see his sweetheart, which may have added to his impatience. + +This condition of affairs was not permitted to remain long. Captain Pease +bought better horses and more comfortable wagons, and he persuaded +townships to repair the roads; and he thus advertised in the +_Massachusetts Spy_, or the _Worcester Gazette_, under date of January 5, +1786:-- + + "Stages from Portsmouth in New Hampshire, to Savannah in Georgia. + + "There is now a line of Stages established from New Hampshire to + Georgia, which go and return regularly, and carry the several Mails, + by order and permission of Congress. + + "The stages from Boston to Hartford in Connecticut, set out, during + the winter season, from the house of Levi Pease, at the Sign of the + New York Stage, opposite the Mall, in Boston, every _Monday_ and + _Thursday_ morning, precisely at five o'clock, go as far as + _Worcester_ on the evenings of those days, and on the days following + proceed to _Palmer_, and on the third day reach _Hartford_; the first + Stage reaches the city of _New York_ on Saturday evening, and the + other on the Wednesday evening following. + + "The stages from _New York_ for _Boston_, set out on the same days, + and reach _Hartford_ at the same time as the Boston Stages. + + "The stages from _Boston_ exchange passengers with the stages from + _Hartford_ at _Spencer_, and the Hartford Stages exchange with those + from _New York_ at _Hartford_. Passengers are again exchanged at + _Stratford Ferry_, and not again until their arrival at _New York_. + + "By the present regulation of the stages, it is certainly the most + convenient and expeditious way of travelling that can possibly be had + in America, and in order to make it the cheapest, the proprietors of + the stages have lowered their price from four pence to three pence a + mile, with liberty to passengers to carry fourteen pounds baggage. + + "In the summer season the stages are to run with the mail three times + in a week instead of twice in the winter, by which means those who + take passage at Boston in the stage which sets off on Monday morning, + may arrive at New York on the Thursday evening following, and all the + mails during that season are to be but four days going from Boston to + New York, and so from New York to Boston. + + "Those who intend taking passage in the stages must leave their names + and baggage the evening preceding the morning that the stages set off, + at the several places where the stages put up, and pay one-half of + their passage to the place where the first exchange of passengers is + made, if bound so far, and if not, one-half of their passage so far as + they are bound. + + "N. B. Way passengers will be accommodated when the stages are not + full, at the same rate, viz. three pence only per mile. + + "Said PEASE keeps good lodging, &c. for gentlemen travellers, and + stabling for horses. + + "BOSTON, Jan. 2nd, 1786." + +Pease obtained the first Government contract within the new United States +for carrying the mails; and the first mail in this new service passed +through Worcester on the 7th of January, 1786--such changes had three +short years brought. + +All was not ease for him even then; he still drove the stage, and endured +heat and cold; and when New England snowstorms could not be overcome by +the mail-coach, like many another of his drivers, he shouldered the +mail-bag and carried the mail on snowshoes to Boston town. He died in +1824, after having received from the Government the first charter granted +in Massachusetts for a turnpike. It was laid out in 1808 from Boston +through South Shrewsbury to Worcester, nearly parallel to the old road. It +transformed travel in that vicinity and, indeed, served to alter all town +relations and conditions. This grant and his many incessant efforts to +establish turnpikes conferred on Levi Pease the title of the "Father of +the Turnpike." + +Many other charters were soon granted, and the state was covered with a +network of turnpikes which were in general thronged with vehicles and +livestock, and were therefore vastly profitable. From the prospectus of +the Sixth Massachusetts Turnpike Company, incorporated in 1799 to build a +road from Amherst to a point near Shrewsbury, we learn that the turnpike +from Northampton to Pittsfield paid twelve per cent dividend. + +On these great, bustling, living thoroughfares a sad change has fallen. In +Bedford, Raystown, Somerset, Greensbury, in scores of towns, weeds and +grass grow in the ruts of the turnpike. The taverns are silent; some are +turned into comfortless farm-houses, others are closed and unoccupied, sad +and deserted widows of the old "pikes," far gone in melancholy decline. + +Many of the methods familiar to us in railroad service to-day were +invented by Pease, and were crudely in practice by him. He introduced the +general ticket office in 1795, and no railroad office to-day sells tickets +to all the points served by Pease. His stage office was in State Street, +Boston. He evolved what we now term the "limited" and "accommodation" +service of railroads; in fact, the term "limited" originated with +mail-coaches limiting passengers to a specific number. Pease's fast mail +line took but four passengers in each coach, and ran to New York three +times a week with the mails. The slower line charging lower prices ran the +other days of the week and took all applicants, putting on extra coaches +if required. This service began in 1793. Tolls were commuted on +Massachusetts turnpikes before 1800, so that condition of railroad travel +is a century old. + +Not far from this Pease Tavern is a sulphur spring which has some +medicinal repute, and which attracted visitors. To reach it at one time +you passed close to the house of the Indian, Old Brazil, and his wife +Nancy, and this was always a ticklish experience. Miss Ward tells their +blood-curdling story. His real name was the gentle title Basil, but he had +been a pirate on the high seas, and Brazil was more appropriate. He and +his wife thriftily ran their little farm and industriously wove charming +baskets and peddled them around the neighboring towns. These last leaves +on the tree were, for all the perceptions of Shrewsbury folk, peaceful +creatures as they were honest; but when Brazil had been treated to a good +mug of hard cider at tavern or farm-house (and no one would fail thus to +treat him) he told of his past life with such fierce voice and horrid +gesture as made him equally a delight and a terror to the children and to +many older folk as well. + + +[Illustration: Harrington Tavern, Shrewsbury, Massachusetts.] + + +He had been a bloodthirsty villain; scores, perhaps hundreds, of helpless +souls on captured craft had perished at his gory hands. He detailed to the +gaping loungers at the tavern with a realism worthy a modern novelist how +he split the heads of his victims open with his broadaxe--exactly in the +middle--"one half would fall on one shoulder, tother half on tother +shoulder! ugh! ugh!" and with another pull of cider, husband and wife +trotted contentedly home. About 1850 they died as they had lived, +close--and loving--companions. As a fitting testimonial to the pirate's +end, the village boys put a charge of gunpowder in the brick oven of the +peaceful little kitchen and blew the pirate's house in fragments. + +At a time when he could not afford to pay high Boston rents, Pease made +Shrewsbury his headquarters. This may account for the large number of old +taverns in the town, several of which are portrayed in these pages,--the +Old Arcade on page 294, Harrington's Tavern on page 299, Balch Tavern on +page 301. + +The Exchange Hotel, still standing and still in use as a public house, was +the stage office for Pease's stage line in Worcester. This interesting old +landmark, built in 1784, was owned by Colonel Reuben Sykes, the partner of +Pease; and other coach lines than theirs centred at the Exchange, and made +it gay with arrival and departure. As the United States Arms, Sykes's +Coffee-house, Sykes's Stage-house, Thomas Exchange Coffee-house, and +Thomas Temperance Exchange in the days of the Washingtonian movement, this +hotel has had an interesting existence. President Washington in 1789 +"stopped at the United States Arms where he took breakfast, and then +proceeded on his journey. To gratify the inhabitants he politely passed +through town on horseback. He was dressed in a brown suit, and pleasure +glowed in every countenance as he came along." Lafayette was also a guest; +and through its situation opposite the Worcester court-houses on Court +Hill the tavern has seen within its walls a vast succession of men noted +in law and in lawsuits. + + +[Illustration: Balch Tavern, Shrewsbury, Massachusetts.] + + +From 1830 to 1846 a brilliant comet flashed its way through the +stage-driving world of New England; it was Hon. Ginery Twichell, who was +successively and successfully post-rider, stage-driver, stage proprietor, +most noted express rider of his times, railroad superintendent, president +of the Boston and Worcester Railroad, and member of Congress. Some thirty +years ago or more a small child sat in the "operating room" of a +photographer's gallery in Worcester. Her feet and hands were laboriously +placed in a tentatively graceful attitude and the back of her head firmly +fastened in that iron "branks-without-a-gag" fixture which then prevailed +in photographers' rooms and may still, for all that I know. A sudden +dashing inroad from an adjoining room of the photographer's assistant with +the loud and excited exclamation, "Ginery's coming, Ginery's coming," led +to the immediate and unceremonious unveiling of the artist from the heavy +black cloth that had enveloped his head while he was peeping wisely +through the instrument at his juvenile sitter, and to his violent exit; he +was followed with equal haste and lack of explanation by my own attendant. +Thus basely deserted I sat for some minutes wondering what a Ginery could +be, for there was to me a sort of menagerie-circus-like ring in the word, +and I deemed it some strange wild beast like the Pygarg once exhibited at +the old Salem Tavern. At last, though fully convinced that my moving would +break the camera, I boldly disengaged myself from the claws of the branks, +ran to a front window, and hung peering out at the Ginery over the heads +of the other occupants of the gallery, who regarded with eager delight no +wild or strange beast, but a great stage-coach with six horses which stood +reeking, foaming, pawing, in front of the Baystate House across the +street. A dignified and self-contained old man, ruddy of face, and dressed +in a heavy greatcoat and tall silk hat, sat erect on the coachman's seat, +reins well in hand--and suddenly Ginery and his six horses were off with +rattle of wheels and blowing of horn and cheers of the crowd; but not +before there was imprinted forever in unfading colors on my young brain a +clear picture of the dashing coaching life of olden days. It was an +anniversary of some memorable event, and the member of Congress celebrated +it by once more driving over his old-time coaching route to meet the +cheers and admiration of all beholders. + +The predecessor of Baystate House, the old Central Hotel, was the +headquarters of Twichell's stage line during the sixteen years of his +connection with it. It was built in 1722, and rooms in it served various +purposes besides those of good cheer--one being used as a county jail. + +I do not doubt that the coach which I saw was the one thus referred to in +the _Boston Traveller_ of June 1, 1867, as Mr. Twichell occasionally drove +it until the year of his death:-- + + "The venerable coach built by Moses T. Breck of Worcester, and used 30 + years ago in the heart of the Commonwealth by Hon. Ginery Twichell for + special occasions before railroads were fairly in vogue, passed + through our Boston streets on Friday. The vehicle was of a most + substantial pattern; no repairs have been needed through all these + years except an occasional coat of varnish and new upholstering. In + 1840, by request of the citizens of the town of Barre, seats were + added on the top of the vehicle, so that a party of 32 persons could + be accommodated (12 inside and 20 outside). The largest load ever + carried by the ponderous carriage was a party of (62) sixty-two young + ladies of Worcester who, uniformly dressed, were driven on a + blackberry excursion to the suburbs by Mr. Twichell himself, eight + matched horses being required on the occasion. During the exciting + Presidential Campaign of 1840, the staunch vehicle was used for + conveying the sovereigns to and from political gatherings in the town + surrounding old Quinsigamond." + +There is still living in Boston, at an advanced age, but of vigorous +mental powers, Mr. Henry S. Miner, the last stage-driver of Ginery +Twichell's stage-route, perhaps the last person living who was connected +with it. He has scores of tales of stage-coach days which he has capacity +to frame in interesting language. I am indebted to him for many letters +full of information and interest. He says: + + "Ginery Twichell was a shrewd, quiet, persevering man of but few + words, and those to the point; his voice was clear and low, never + raised to horses or men. Affable, sociable, he was a man that would + make friends and hold them. He was smooth-shaven and red-faced, but + strictly temperate. He had one habit of rubbing his hands rapidly when + in earnest conversation. He had but a common school education and + might be called a self-made man. Before through railroads were + completed, Mr. Twichell collected the November election votes on + horseback, from Greenfield to Worcester, 54 miles, covering the + distance in four and one-half hours. He had relays of horses and men + every 6 to 10 miles. As the work always came in the night, he was many + times thrown by his horse stumbling, but always came out all right. At + one time he slept in his clothes with buckskin underwear, at the + American House in Worcester, in wait for despatches from English + steamers. He had men and horses on the road to Norwich for one week + waiting also. When the dispatches arrived he mounted his horse and + started for Norwich; he met the boat, and the despatches were in New + York hours ahead of any other line. I am the only one of his + drivers living, and one hostler is living." + + +[Illustration: Advertisement of Twichell's Stage Line.] + + +A friend who remembers riding with Twichell eulogizes him in the warmest +terms for his accommodating spirit and happy faculty of making all his +passengers as comfortable as possible. He had an inexhaustible fund of +racy anecdotes which he would tell so well that it was a perfect treat to +ride upon the box with him. He was a general favorite, especially with the +country folks, and the boys and girls on the road, and with these he +always had a joke to crack whenever it came his way to do so, to the +infinite amusement of the travellers whom he had in charge. He carried +many small and valuable parcels, and executed commissions for the people +like an expressman. After a period of self-denial in early life, +throughout which he had saved his liberal earnings carefully, he was +enabled to purchase from Mr. Stockwell the stage and two horses which he +drove between Athol and Barre. About 1837 he started with Mr. Burt and Mr. +Billings a stage line from Brattleboro to Worcester. + + +[Illustration: Ginery Twichell's Ride.] + + +In 1843 he was engaged in driving a stage of his own between Barre and +Worcester. Not long afterwards he was sole owner of a line from +Greenfield, Massachusetts, to Brattleboro, Vermont. The Postmaster-general +about this time advertised for mail contracts, and Ginery Twichell went to +Washington. It was supposed by the owners of the other lines, who knew he +had gone thither, that he would not undertake to execute more than one +contract, but his own private views, it appears, were somewhat broader, +for he contracted with the Government to carry the mails upon a number of +routes, greatly to the astonishment of others in the business; and what +was better still, he accomplished what he had undertaken very +satisfactorily to the Postmaster-general, and came to be regarded as a +sort of Napoleon among mail contractors. He became the owner of a large +number of fine stages and horses. He ran a line from Worcester to +Northfield, sixty miles, three times a week; from Worcester to Winchester, +fifty-five miles, daily; from Worcester to Keene, fifty-four miles, three +times a week; to Templeton twenty-five miles, daily; from Templeton to +Greenfield, forty-eight miles, daily; from Barre to Worcester, forty-four +miles, daily. In all this was two hundred and eighty-six miles of +stage-route, and it took a hundred and fifty-six horses to do the work. + +The picture shown on page 306 is from a lithograph published in 1850, +entitled,-- + +"The Unrivaled Express Rider, Ginery Twichell, who rode from Worcester to +Hartford, a distance of Sixty miles in Three hours and Twenty minutes +through a deep snow, January 23, 1846." + +It commemorates an exploit of his which was much talked of at the time it +took place. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +A STAGING CENTRE + + +The story of the tavern and stage life of the town of Haverhill, New +Hampshire, may be told as an example of that aspect and era of social +history, as developed in a country town. It shows the power the +stage-coach was in bringing civilization and prosperity to remote parts of +the states, what an illumination, what an education. + +Haverhill is on the Connecticut River somewhat more than halfway up the +western boundary line of the state of New Hampshire, at the head of the +Cohos valley. It is a beautiful fertile tract of land which had been +cleared and cultivated by the Indians before the coming of the white man. +It is lovely and picturesque with its broad intervales, splendid +mountains, and peaceful river winding in the sweeps and reaches of the +Oxbow; so lovely that Longfellow declared Haverhill the most beautiful +spot he ever had seen. The town has but little colonial history. It had no +white settlers till 1761; but the first who did take up land and build +there were, as was the case with nearly all New Hampshire towns, men of +unusual force of character and energy of purpose; by Revolutionary times +the town was well established, and its situation and resources made it +the authorized place of rendezvous for the troops destined for Canada. At +the end of the war, when the danger of Indian invasion lessened, the town +grew rapidly, but there were still only bridle-paths blazed through the +woods by which to connect with the world, and until this century its only +roads were the river road, the Coventry Road over Morse Hill, and the old +Road from Plymouth, New Hampshire. + +But the day of the turnpike and vast changes was dawning. In 1805, in this +town, still poor and struggling, were men who contributed their share to +the building of the old Cohos Turnpike from Plymouth through Warren to +Haverhill. The old post-rider, faithful John Balch, who had carried on +foot and on horseback the scant letters throughout the dangerous days of +the Revolution, was succeeded by Colonel Silas May in a Dutch wagon, +carrying packages and the mail. As he drove into town blowing his horn he +inaugurated a change for Haverhill that was indeed a new life. By 1814 a +permanent stage line was established between Concord and Haverhill through +Plymouth; and the first coach came down the long hill on its first trip, +with loud and constant blasts of the horn, with a linchpin gone, but wheel +safely in place clean up to the tavern door, thanks to Silas May's skilful +driving. A leading spirit in obtaining the turnpike charter and one of the +proprietors of the first stage line was Colonel William Tarleton (or +Tarlton), then a dashing young fellow of great elegance of manners; he +kept the Tarleton Tavern on Tarleton Lake on the Pike till his death. +Every stage and team that went down or up the Pike stopped there to water +the horses, with water in which was thrown salt; and every passenger had +at least a hot drink. His hostelry was famous for two generations, and all +the while there swung in the breezes that swept over Tarleton Lake the old +sign-board which is shown here. It is an oaken board on which is painted +on one side an Indian and the name William Tarlton and date, 1774; on the +other a symbol of Plenty. It is owned by his grandson, Amos Tarleton, of +Haverhill, to whose cordial interest and intelligent help I owe much of +this story of Haverhill's coaching days. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Tarleton Inn.] + + +The turnpike line from Concord to Haverhill was scarcely under way when a +rival line was started which came through Hanover, and connected with the +stage line to New York. Others followed with surprising quickness; the +chief were lines to Boston, New York, and Stanstead, Canada; lesser lines +of coaches ran to the White Mountains, to Montpelier, Vermont, to +Chelsea, Vermont, and elsewhere. The reason for this sudden growth of +Haverhill was found in its position with regard to the neighboring +country; the topography of upper New England made it a proper and natural +travel centre. + +As many coaches came into Haverhill every night and started out early the +next morning, as many passengers changed coaches there, it can be readily +seen that the need of taverns was great, and a number at once were opened. +Often a hundred and fifty travellers were set down daily in Haverhill. The +Bliss Tavern was one of the first to be built and is still standing, a +dignified and comfortable mansion, as may be seen from its picture on page +314. Its landlord, Joseph Bliss, was a man of influence in the town, and +held several important offices; his house was the headquarters where the +judges of the court and the lawyers stopped when court was held; for +Haverhill was a shire town, a county seat, from 1773. At some of the +courts of the General Sessions of the Peace as many as twenty-two justices +were present; and court terms were longer then than now, so justices, +lawyers, clients, sheriffs, deputies, jurors, and witnesses came and +remained in town till their law business was settled. Sometimes the +taverns were crowded for weeks. The court and bar had a special dining +room and table at Bliss's Tavern, to which no layman, however high in +social standing, was admitted. On Sundays all went to the old +meeting-house at Piermont, where there was a "Judges' Pew." Sometimes +executions took place in town--a grand day for the taverns. When one +Burnham was hanged there in 1805, ten thousand people witnessed the sight. +Old and young, mothers with babes, lads and lasses, even confirmed +invalids thronged to this great occasion. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Tarlton Inn.] + + +Besides the court and its following, and the pampered travellers in +stage-coaches, Haverhill taverns had by 1825 other classes of customers. +Backward and forward from upper New Hampshire and Vermont to Boston, +Portsmouth, and Salem, rolled the great covered wagons with teams of six +or eight horses bearing the products of the soil and forest to the towns +and the products of the whole earth in return. These wagons, which were +the Conestoga wagons of Pennsylvania, made little appearance in New +England till this century; they were brought there by the War of 1812; but +they had there their day of glory and usefulness as elsewhere throughout +our whole northern continent. + +The two-wheeled cart of the earliest colonists, clumsily built and +wasteful of power, was used long in New England for overland +transportation; though the chief transfer of merchandise was in the winter +by "sledding." There seems to have always been plentiful snow and good +sledding every year in every part of New England in olden times, though it +is far from being so to-day. The farmer, at that season of the year, had +little else to do, and the ancient paths were soon made smooth by many +sleighs and sleds. + +Mr. Henry S. Miner gives me a very interesting account of these freight +wagons in New England as he remembers them in ante-railroad days. Though +the traffic was small in amount compared with that of the present day, it +was carried on in a way which gave a sense of great life and action on the +road. As even little towns furnished freight for several teams, the +aggregate was large, and as they neared Boston the number of teams on the +highway seemed enormous. These passed through towns on the turnpike every +day, Sundays included. No vocation called for sturdier or better men. The +drivers were almost invariably large, hearty, healthy Yankees, of good +sense and regular habits, though they were seldom total abstainers. They +could not be drunkards, for their life was too vigorous; long whip in +hand, they walked beside their teams. The whip was a sign of office, +seldom applied to a horse. They had to be keen traders, good merchants, to +sell advantageously the goods they carried to town and to choose wisely +for return trips. Country merchants seldom went to the cities, but +depended wholly on these teamsters for supplies. + + +[Illustration: Bliss's Tavern.] + + +The wagons were of monstrous size, broad and high. Each horse had a ton of +freight. No one was a regular teamster who drove less than four horses. +But there were other carriers. A three-horse team called a "spike," a +two-horse team called a "podanger," and a single horse with cart called a +"gimlet," were none of them in favor with tavern-keepers or other +teamsters. Still, if the smaller teams got stuck in the mud or snow, the +regulars would good-humoredly help them out. Whatever accident happened to +a teamster or his wagon or horses, his fellow-craftsmen assisted him, +while stage-drivers, drovers, or any other travelling citizens were never +looked upon for help. + +An old man who drove one of these teams in his youth says:-- + + "When these large teams were hooked to the wagons, the starting word + was 'whoo-up'; and the horses would at once place themselves in + position. Then, 'Order, whope, _git_.' To turn to the left, 'Whoa, + whoa,' softly; to the right, 'Geer there.' For a full stop, 'Whoa + who-oof,' in louder voice, and all would come to a standstill. It was + a fine sight to see six or eight good horses spread out, marching + along in each other's steps, and see how quick they were to mind the + driver's voice. Good drivers always spoke to their teams in a low + voice, never shouted. The teamsters walked beside their teams, twenty + miles a day the average. The reins were done up on each horse's hames, + allowing them to spread apart with ease, a check-rein from the bit + over the hames to keep them where they belonged. You could never teach + a horse anything that wasn't checked up. The wagons weighed from + eighteen hundred to twenty-two hundred pounds. Some wagons had an + adjustable seat called a lazy-board." + +With winter snows the wagons were generally housed; hundreds, yes, +thousands of sleighs, pods, and pungs took their place. The farmer no +longer sent to town by wagon and teamster; he carried his farm produce to +town himself, just as his grandfather had in the days of the cart and sled +before the Revolution. Winter brought red-letter days to the New England +farmer; summer and autumn were his time of increase, but winter was his +time of trade and of glorious recreation. + + +[Illustration: Old Sleigh with Double Dashboard.] + + +Friendly word was circulated from farm to farm, spread chiefly at the +Sabbath nooning, that at stated date, at break of day the long ride to +market would begin. Often twenty or thirty neighbors would start together +on the road to town. The two-horse pung or single-horse pod, shod with +steel shoes one inch thick, was closely packed with farm wealth--anything +that a New England farm could produce that could be sold in a New England +town. Frozen hogs, poultry, and venison; firkins of butter, casks of +cheeses,--four to a cask,--bags of beans, peas, sheep-pelts, deer hides, +skins of mink, fox, and fisher-cat that the boys had trapped, perhaps a +splendid bearskin, nuts that the boys had gathered, shoe pegs that they +had cut, yarn their sisters had spun, stockings and mittens they had +knitted, homespun cloth and linen, a forest of splint brooms strapped on +behind, birch brooms that the boys had whittled. So closely packed was the +sleigh that the driver could not sit; he stood on a little semicircular +step on the back of the sleigh, protected from the cutting mountain winds +by the high sleigh back. At times he ran alongside to keep his blood +briskly warm. + +To Troy and Portland went some winter commerce, but Boston, Portsmouth, +and Salem took far the greatest amount. On the old Cohos Turnpike trains +of these farm sleighs were often a half mile long. The tavern-keepers +might well have grown rich, had all these winter travellers paid for board +and lodging, but nearly all, even the wealthiest farmers, carried their +own provender and food. Part of their oats and hay for their horses +sometimes was deposited with honest tavern-keepers on the way down to be +used on the way home; and there was also plenty of food to last through +the journey: doughnuts, cooked sausages, roast pork, "rye and injun" +bread, cheese, and a bountiful mass of bean porridge. This latter, made in +a tub and frozen in a great mass, was hung by loops of twine by the side +of the sleigh, and great chunks were chopped off from time to time. This +itinerant picnic was called in some vicinities tuck-a-nuck, an Indian +word; also mitchin. It was not carried from home because tavern-fare was +expensive,--a "cold bite" was but twelve and a half cents, and a regular +meal but twenty-five cents; but the tavern-keeper did not expect to serve +meals to this class or to such a great number of travellers. His profits +were made on liquor he sold and sleeping room he gave. The latter was +often simple enough. Great fires were built in barroom and parlor; each +driver spread out a blanket or fur robe, and with feet to the fire, the +semicircle slept the sleep of the healthy and tired and cider-filled. Ten +cents this lodging cost; but the sale of rum and cider, toddy and flip, +brought in dimes and dollars to the tavern-keeper. Many a rough story was +told or old joke laughed at before the circle was quiet; quarrels, too, +took place among so many strong and independent men. + + +[Illustration: Old Passenger Pung.] + + +It can readily be seen how important the tavern must have been in such a +town as Haverhill, what a news centre, what an attraction, what an +education. Newspapers were infrequent, but none were needed when newcomers +from all points of the compass brought all there was to tell from +everywhere. Mine host was the medium through which information was spread; +he came into close contact with leaders in law, politics, and business, +and dull he must have been if he did not profit in mental growth. But he +could not be dull, he had to be companionable and intelligent; hence we +find the tavern-keeper the leading man in town, prominent in affairs, and +great in counsel, and it was to the stage-coach he owed much of his +intelligence and influence. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +THE STAGE-DRIVER + + +In a home-library in an old New England town there were for half a century +two sets of books which seemed strangely alien to the other staid +occupants of the bookshelves, which companions were chiefly rows of +encyclopaedias, Scott's novels, the _Spectator_ and _Tatler_, a large +number of books of travel, and scores of biographies, autobiographies and +memoirs of pious "gospellers," English and American, chiefly missionaries. +These two special sets of books were large volumes, but were not placed +primly and orderly with others of their own size; they were laid on their +sides thrust high up among the smaller books on the upper shelves as if to +escape notice under the frames of the glazed doors. They were strictly +tabooed to all the younger members of the family, and were, indeed, well +out of our reach; but Satan can find library steps for idle and very +inquisitive little souls to climb, and we had read them eagerly before we +were in our teens. One set was that inestimable and valuable work _London +Labour and London Poor_, which was held to be highly improper reading for +the young, but which I found very entertaining, as being of folk as +remote from my life as if they were gnomes and elves. The other volumes +were Pierce Egan's _Book of Sports_; and one, a prince of wicked books, +entitled _Life in London: or the Day and Night Scenes of Jerry Hawthorne, +Esq., and his elegant friend Corinthian Tom accompanied by Bob Logic, the +Oxonian, in their Rambles and Sprees through the Metropolis_. This also +was by Pierce Egan. + + +[Illustration: Relay House.] + + +That this latter most reprehensible book (from the standard of the Puritan +household in which it was found) should have been preserved at all must +have been, I think, from the fact that the illustrations were by +Cruikshank, and delightful pictures they were. Though this book was so +ill-regarded in New England, its career in England was a most brilliant +one. It was the most popular work in British literature in the years 1820 +to 1850; in fact, to many Englishmen it was _the_ book, _the_ literature, +of the period. One claim it has to the consideration of the reading public +to-day: it is perhaps the best picture existing of Society, or, as it was +termed in the words of the day, of "Life, Fashion, and Frolic," in the +times of George IV. Thackeray tells, in his article on George Cruikshank, +of the lingering fondness he had for this old book, but even when he wrote +could find no copy either in the British Museum or in London circulating +libraries. It was dramatized by several hands, and had long runs on the +stage both in England and the United States; and I do not doubt wealthy +young men in the large American cities tried to emulate the sports of the +London Tom and Jerry. In the peculiar affectations of the bucks and bloods +of that day, from the king down, shown in the love of all low sports, in +association, even familiarity, with low sportsmen, and in the domination +of the horse in sporting life, we see the reason for the high perfection +and participation of the rich in coaching in England--a perfection which +was aped in some respects in America. Coaching is less talked about than +other sports by Jerry and the elegant Corinthian Tom (whose surname is +never once given), probably because their dissipations and sprees were +those of the city, not of turnpike roads and green lanes. But the life of +the day, perhaps the idlest, most aimless era of fashion in English +history, the life most thoroughly devoid of any spirituality or +intellectuality, yet never exactly unintelligent and never dull, lives +forever in Pierce Egan's pages; and lives for me with the intensity of +reality from the eager imprinting on the fresh memory of a little child of +unfamiliar scenes and incomprehensible words, knowledge even of whose +existence was sternly forbidden. + +I obtained from these books a notion of an English coachman, as an +idealized being, a combination of Phoebus Apollo, a Roman charioteer, and +the Prince Regent. I fancied our American coach-drivers as glorious +likewise, though with a lesser refulgence; and I distinctly recall my +disappointment at the reality of the first coachman of my first coach-ride +from Charlestown, New Hampshire. A man, even on a day of Indian Summer, +all in hide and fur: moth-eaten fur gloves, worn fur cap with vast +ear-flaps and visor, and half-bare buffalo-hide coat, and out of all these +ancient skins but one visible feature, a great, shining, bulbous nose. But +even the paling days of stage-coaches were then long past; and the ancient +coachman had long been shorn of his glory. In the days of his prime he was +a power in the land, though he was not like the English coachman. + +From Mr. Miner and others who remember the great days of stage-coach +travel, I learn that our American drivers were a dignified and interesting +class of men. Imposing in bearskin caps, in vast greatcoats, and with +their teams covered with ivory rings, with fine horses and clean coaches, +they and their surroundings were pleasant to the eyes. They acquired +characteristic modes of speaking, of thinking. They were terse and +sententious in expression, had what is termed horse sense. They had +prudence and ability and sturdy intelligence. They carried from country to +town, from house to house, news of the health of loved ones, or of +sickness when weary nurses were too tired to write. A kindly driver would +stop his horses or walk them past a lane corner where an anxious mother or +sister waited, dreading; and passengers in the coach would hear him call +out to her, "John's better, fever's all gone." + +They were character-readers, of man and horse alike. They had great +influence in the community they called home, and their word was law. They +were autocrats in their own special domain, and respected everywhere. No +wonder they loved the life. Harrison Bryant, the veteran Yankee whip, +inherited a fine farm in Athol. He at once gave up his hard life as a +driver, bade good-by to the cold and exposure, the long hours of work, the +many hardships, and settled down to an existence of sheltered prosperity. +On the third day of his life on the farm he stood at the edge of a field +as a stage passed on the road. The driver gave "the Happy Farmer" a salute +and snapped his whip. The horses started ahead on the gallop, a passenger +on top waved good-by to him; the coach bounded on and disappeared. Farmer +Bryant walked sombrely across the field to his new home, packed his old +carpet-bag, went to the stage-office in the next town, and two days later +he swept down the same road on the same coach, snapping his whip, waving +his hand, leaving the miles behind him. He was thus one week off the +coach-box, and at the end of his long life had a well-established +record of over one hundred and thirty-five thousand miles of stage +driving, more than five times round the world. + + +[Illustration: The Relay.] + + +A letter written by an "old-timer" says:-- + + "I remember many of the old stage-drivers. What a line was the old + 'accommodation' put on by Gen. Holman and others! What a prince of + drivers was Driver Day! Handsome, dressy, and a perfect lady's man! + How many ladies were attracted to a seat on the box beside him! Then + such a team, and with what grace they were guided! How many young men + envied his grace as a driver! So, also, what gentlemen were the + tavern-keepers of that day! They studied to please the public by their + manners, though behind the scenes some of them could spice their + conversation with big words." + +A very vivid description of the dress of the old stage-drivers of +Haverhill and other New Hampshire towns was given me by Mr. Amos Tarleton, +an old inhabitant of the town. He says:-- + + "The winter dress of these old drivers was nearly all alike. Their + clothing was of heavy homespun, calfskin boots, thick trousers tucked + inside the boots, and fur-lined overshoes over the boots. Over all + these were worn Canadian hand-knit stockings, very heavy and thick, + colored bright red, which came up nearly to the thighs, and still over + that a light leather shoe. Their coats were generally fur or buffalo + skin with fur caps with ear protectors, either fur or wool tippets. + Also a red silk sash that went round the body and tied on the left + side with a double bow with tassels." + +Can you not see one of those hairy old bears peering out of his furs, vain +in scarlet sash and tassels, and with his vast feet planted on the +dashboard? What were on his fore paws? double-pegged mittens, leather +gauntlets, fur gloves, wristlets, and muffettees? + +Mr. Twining declared that the skill of American drivers equalled that of +English coachmen, though they had little of the smart appearance of the +latter, "neither having the hat worn on one side, nor greatcoat, nor +boots, but wearing coarse blue jackets, worsted stockings, and thick +shoes." + +A traveller calling himself a Citizen of the World, writing in 1829, noted +with pleasure that the drivers on American coaches neither asked for nor +took a fee, but simply wished the passengers a polite good morning. Other +Englishmen greeted this fact with approval. Mr. Miner tells us "tipping" +was unknown--which was so customary, indeed so imperative, in England. +Sometimes travellers who went frequently over the same route would make a +gift to the driver. + +The custom of "shouldering," which was for the coachman to take the fare +of a way-passenger--one who did not register or start at the +booking-office--and pocket it without making any return to the coach agent +or proprietor, was universal in England. Some coach companies suffered +much by it, and it was a tidy bit of profit to the unscrupulous coachman. +Shouldering was common also in the new world, and called by the same name. +There were no "spotters" on coaching lines as on street railways. + +As in every trade, profession, or calling, stage-coaching had a +vocabulary--call it coaching slang if you will. Among English coachmen +"skidding" was checking with a shoe or drag or "skid-pan" the wheels of +the coach when going down hill, thus preventing them from revolving, and +slackening the progress of the coach. "Fanning" the horses was, in +coachman's tongue, whipping them; "towelling" was flogging them; and +"chopping" the cruel practice of hitting the horse on the thigh with the +whip. "Pointing" was hitting the wheeler with the point of the whip. A +"draw" was a blow at the leader. If the thong of the whip lapped round any +part of the harness, it was called "having a bite." "Throat-lashing" was +another term. + + +[Illustration: View of Middletown, Connecticut.] + + +Another and expressive use of the word bite was to indicate a narrow strip +of gravel or broken stone on the near side of a winding road on a steep +hill. The additional friction on the wheel on one side made a natural drag +or brake, while the wheels of the ascending coach did not touch it. + +The drivers on local lines grew to be on terms of most friendly intimacy +with dwellers along the route. They bore messages, brought news, carried +letters and packages, transacted exchange, and did all kinds of shopping +at the citywards end of the route. An old coach-driver in Ayer, +Massachusetts, told me with much pride that he always bought bonnets in +Boston for all the women along his route who could not go to town; and +that often in the spring the bandboxes were piled high on the top of his +coach; that he never bought two alike, and that there wasn't another +driver on the road that the women would trust to perform this important +duty save himself. + +The great bell-crowned hat which the driver wore in summer on lines +leaving Boston often was crammed with papers and valuables, and one of the +rules of the Eastern Stage Company at one time was, "No driver shall carry +anything except in his pocket." It is said many of the drivers grew bald +from the constant weight on their heads. + +The constant imbibing of ale, brandy, and rum-and-milk by English coachmen +at coaching inns was echoed in America by drivers at every tavern at which +the stage-coach stopped. The driver was urged to drink by coach passengers +who had far better have implored him not to drink. Many an old driver +showed by the benignant purple glow of his nose that the importunities of +the travellers had been duly silenced by more than ample hard cider, gin, +and New England rum. + +A great day on the coaches was when schoolboys and college boys went home +on their vacations. The tops of the coaches were filled with their square +boxes, which packed like cord-wood. On these boxes and within the coach +swarmed the boys, pea-shooters in hand. A favorite target was the +pike-keeper at the toll-gate, and those who left the coach first fared +worst. Our boys have but a feeble imitation of these good times when they +riot into a railway car together for a few hours of hurried travel to +their city homes. + +The stage-drivers were universally kind and careful of all children placed +under their charge; even young children, boys and girls, were intrusted to +their care. + +One old gentleman tells me that in the days of his youth he rode by +stage-coach to and from school, and so strong was his longing for a +seafaring life, with such a flavor of salt water and tar did he englamour +every unusual event, that it was inevitable with the imaginativeness of a +child he should compare this trip by stage to a sea voyage; the roads and +fields he mentally termed the ocean, the driver was the captain, the +inside of the coach the cabin, the top the deck, and so on. He was honored +by having a seat with the driver; and as the day waned, and the ship came +to anchor, and all disembarked for supper at a stage tavern, he was +further honored by eating supper with the driver and being treated to a +glass of toddy. After the coach was again under way the driver had some +tardy compunctions that the toddy had been rather strong drink for a +growing boy, and said plainly that he feared the young traveller felt the +liquor and might tumble from his high seat. He was not reassured when the +boy answered dreamily, "Never mind, I can swim." After glancing sharply at +him, the driver stopped his horses, and ignominiously forced the boy to +descend and make the rest of the journey inside the coach. + +Nothing is more marked than the changes in travelling-bags and trunks from +those of stage-coach days. When our ancestors crossed the ocean they +transported their belongings in wooden chests--common sea-chests and +chests of carved wood. I have seen no mention of _trunks_ in any old +colonial inventories, though trunks existed and are named by Shakespere. +These old trunks were metal coffers, and usually small. When Judge Sewall +went to England in 1690, he bought trunks for his little daughters--trunks +of leather or hide with their initials studded in metal nails. This shape +of trunk lasted till the days of the railroad. Nearly all old families +have one or more of these old trunks in their garrets. They were stout +enough of frame, and heavy enough of frame to have lasted in larger +numbers, and for centuries, but their heavy deerskin or pigskin covering +often grew sorely offensive through harboring moths; and as they held but +little, and were very heavy, they were of no use for a modern wardrobe. +Their long narrow forms, however, were seen laden on every stage-coach, in +company with carpet bags and leather sacks, and the schoolboy who owned +one was a proud fellow. + +An ancient travelling bag is shown on page 333. It is of a heavy woollen +homespun stuff ribbed like corduroy, mounted with green leather bindings, +straps, handles, etc. It is shaped like a mail-bag, and the straps laced +through large eyelet holes. This bag is believed by its owners to have +held the possessions of John Carver on the _Mayflower_. + + +[Illustration: Deer's Hide and Pigskin Trunks.] + + +Not only were stage-drivers respected by all persons in every community, +but they had a high idea of their own dignity and of the importance of +their calling. Little Jack Mendum, who drove the Salem mail-coach, did +not deem it an exaggeration of his position when he roared out angrily in +answer to a hungry passenger who kept urging him to drive faster, "When I +drive this coach I am the whole United States of America." + +One coachman who drove from Boston to Hartford was deeply tanned by summer +suns and winter winds, and his mates spoke to each other of him as Black +Ben. An English traveller, bustling out of the coach office with +importance, shouted out: "I and my people want to go with Black Ben; are +you the coachman they call Black Ben?" "Blackguards call me Black Ben," +was the answer, "but gentlemen call me Mr. Jarvis." + +The list of the coach-drivers employed by the Eastern Stage Company still +exists, and has been printed by Mr. Rantoul. From it we learn that +coach-driving went by families--it was an hereditary calling. Many +families had two sons in this work, there were four Potter brothers, three +Ackermans, and three Annables, all coachmen. Their names were often +curious, Moses Caney, John Foss, Perley Annable, Eppes Potter, Ben Savory, +Fortune Tozzer. + +Mr. Miner writes thus of stage-terms and stage-horses:-- + + "Every horse had a name. It was 'Git up, Jo; gwan, boys or gals; you + are shirky, Bill; you want touching up, Ben; if you don't do better, + Ben, I'll swap you for a mule.' All kinds of expressions. Some drivers + would fret a team to death, while others would get over the road and + you would never hear hardly a loud word to the team. It was just as + drivers themselves were constituted. All kinds of horses were used in + a stage team, runaways, kickers, biters, and all kinds of tricksters. + If the owners could not manage them they went on stage teams, and did + good work, and never died. They were seldom sick, as they were + well-fed and groomed, and had quick time and short trips. We had some + fine teams of matched horses, especially on the Connecticut River + roads, which would have sold for seven hundred to a thousand dollars a + pair. The horses were usually what were termed native horses, large, + full of muscle and gimp, of English descent." + + +[Illustration: Old Carpet Bag.] + + +It was the testimony of John Lambert, an English gentleman who travelled +here in the early years of this century, that the horses used on coaches +in all settled parts of the United States were as good as English +coach-horses. + +It serves to show with force the pride and vanity of coach owners and +drivers to be told that on the Boston and Salem line the coachmen +sometimes attached false sweeping tails to the horses, to dress them up as +it were and put on a good appearance--this is ante- if not anti-docking +days. + +Elaborate rules for coach-driving are given in old-time and modern manuals +of coaching. Mr. Fairman Rogers's descriptions are the plainest. Mr. +Miner tells very simply of the old modes of driving in his day:-- + + "On four-horse teams were four reins. The near wheel-horse rein came + under the little finger of left hand, the leader over the next finger. + The off wheel-horse rein over third finger, right hand, leader over + first finger. Six horses would require two more reins, and one more + finger on each hand. Some drivers would wear mittens, and have one + rein over and one under the fingers. These among good reinsmen were + called Dummies or old Farmers. The whip was carried in the right hand, + horizontally pointing to the left, toward the ground, not as pictured + at the present day. A good driver who was interested in his team + always sat up straight, and kept his reins and whip in a stylish + manner. He talked to his horses as he would to a person. Every horse + knew him; they knew him by his voice whether they were late for cars + or early, and just where to make up time if late. A driver of this + kind always had a good team, able to respond under all conditions." + +Even the whip of good drivers was of regulation size. The rule of +perfection was that it should be five feet one and one-half inches from +butt to holder and twelve feet five inches long from holder to end of +point of lash--so it was an imposing machine. + +On summer routes in the mountains of New Hampshire the stage-driver +lingered long. Over the backbone of Vermont he guides in our own day a few +rusty coaches. + +Among the popular stage-drivers of the New Hampshire mountains before the +advent of frequent railroads, were Charles Sanborn, of Pittsfield, who +drove between Centre Harbor and West Ossipee; and H. P. Marden, who drove +between Plymouth and the Profile House, White Mountains, during the summer +months; and James F. Langdon, of Plymouth,--the three being among the last +to give up the reins and the whip, when called to that far-away country +"from whence no traveller returns." In 1861, Mr. Sanborn drove between +Centre Harbor and North Conway, a distance of thirty-five miles. He drove +over that route eleven years, at first requiring but forty horses, while +in 1872 no less than one hundred and twenty were in constant use, besides +a large number of coaches, wagons, and sleighs. On one of his round trips, +Mr. Sanborn took three hundred and fifty dollars in passenger fares alone, +while the express business was proportionately large. Of course all this +seems small to those who know little of the days before railroads ran by +every man's dooryard, but those who have "staged it" in the old times will +understand what a busy time the driver on such a route must have had. Mr. +Sanborn was over six feet in height and of Herculean frame, his broad +shoulders and sturdy gait betokening a strength which gave his passengers +the greatest confidence in his ability to carry them safely through any +accident. He seldom lost his temper, even under the most trying +circumstances, and was a jolly man withal. Major Lewis Downing of Concord +tells me that on his route Sanborn had the good-will of every one, and in +Pittsfield, where was his home, he was highly esteemed for his sterling +character and strict integrity. + +In England the coachmen and coaches had an Annual Parade, a coaching-day, +upon the Royal Birthday, when coach-horses, coachmen, and guards all were +in gala attire. In America similar annual meetings were held in many +vicinities. In Concord, New Hampshire, which was a great coaching centre, +an annual coaching parade was given in the afternoon and a "Stagemen's +Ball" in the evening. "Knights of the whip" from New Hampshire and +neighboring states attended this festival. The ball was held in the +celebrated Grecian Hall--celebrated for its spring floor--which was built +over the open carriage-houses and woodsheds attached to the Eagle +Coffee-house, called now the Eagle Hotel. This dancing hall, built in +1827, took its name from the style of its architecture. At one end was a +great painting of the battle of New Orleans, with Jackson on horseback. It +was the rallying-point for all great occasions,--caucuses, conventions, +concerts, even a six weeks' theatrical season. + +Political economists solve the problem of a sudden loss of one trade by +saying that others can easily be found. But it is difficult for a man +learned in one handicraft to become proficient in others; and it is most +difficult for the old or even middle-aged to learn a new trade. + +No more melancholy example of an entire class of workmen deprived of work +and subsistence through no fault of their own can be found than in these +old coachmen, especially in England. Their work left them with astonishing +rapidity, and they refused to realize the fact that their occupation was +going out of existence, and that railroads would supersede coaches. In +England the employment of the drivers of coaches on the railroads was +almost unknown; they ended their days as humble workers in stables or as +omnibus drivers, or, worse still, upon carts working on the road; sorry +lives compared to the cheery work on a coach. A few took to farming, and +made pretty poor work of it. + + +[Illustration: Sign of David Reed's Tavern.] + + +In America, especially in New England if they were young and strong and +quick-witted enough to read coming events and adjust themselves early in +the day to altered conditions, they obtained positions on the railroads, +as brakemen, conductors, ticket-sellers, express-agents, depot-masters, +never as engineers--driving horses does not fit a man to drive an engine. +Often these brakemen and conductors advanced in position as the railroads +grew. It was not unusual a decade ago in the obituary notices of men who +had acquired wealth through the railways, to read that these men had in +early life been stage-drivers; but they were usually men who had amassed +some capital before the era of the railroad, or very young stage-drivers +when steam carriage came. + +Benjamin Pierce Cheney, one of the wealthiest men of Boston, an owner of +vast railroad properties, founder of the rich Cheney Express Company, +chief owner of the American Express Company, one of the Wells-Fargo +Company, one of the builders of the Northern Pacific and other great +Western railroads, began his business life a strong boy of seventeen +driving the coach from Exeter, New Hampshire, to Nashua. For six years he +drove fifty miles every day; then he became stage agent, and agent for the +Lowell and Nashua Railroad, then railroad owner. Chester W. Chapin +(afterwards president of the Boston and Albany Railroad) ran a stage line +between Springfield and Hartford. The early members of the firm which +formed Harnden's Express were nearly all connected with stage-coach lines. + +Certainly much consideration was shown the old employees of the stage +roads. + +It was said by an old coachman of the Eastern Stage Company that all its +men were given positions on the railroads if so desired; "All who wished +had something to do," and facilities were given them also to benefit by +the new railroads. For instance, after the steam cars were running between +Salem and Boston the stage-drivers from Portsmouth and other towns were +given free passes on the railroad. They could thus go to Boston and +transact their old "errand-business," from which they had so much profit. +The fast-growing express companies of Harnden and Adams also employed +many of the old workers on the stage-coach lines. Some resisted the new +mode of travel. Major Shaw of Salem threatened to ruin the railroad with a +new opposition stage line, but Americans in general have been ever quicker +to accept changes and innovations than the English. They were more +"uptaking," as the Scotch say,--that is, quicker to perceive, accept, and +adopt; we breathe in that trait with the air of the new world; so American +coach employees accepted the railroad and profited by it. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +THE ROMANCE OF THE ROAD + + +The traveller in the old stage-coach was not tantalized by the fleeting +half-glimpse of places which we gain in railroad travel to-day. He had +ample time to view any unusual or beautiful spot as he passed, he had +leisure to make inquiry did he so desire, he had also many minutes, nay +hours, to hear any traveller's tale that could be told him by a +fellow-journeyer or by the driver. This last-named companion, going over +the stage road day after day, talking constantly, querying frequently, +grew deeply versed in its lore, its history. He knew the gossip, too, of +each house he passed, he knew the traditions and tales of each locality; +hence in his company every mile of the road had some point of deep +interest. + +Roger Mowry's Tavern was the first one established in the town of +Providence. It escaped destruction in King Philip's War, when nearly all +the town was burned, and stood till the present day. When a coach started +out from that old tavern, it passed the burying ground and a dense growth +of barberry bushes which grew along the roadside. There seems to have +been, in many places, a suspicion of uncanny reputation connected with +barberry bushes. In one spot a dense group of bushes was said to harbor a +vast snake; in another it shaded an Indian's grave; a third concealed a +ghost. The barberry was not a native of America; it is an immigrant, and +has the further ill name of blasting any wheat near which it is planted. +The grewsome growth of barberry bushes near Mowry's Tavern was the scene +of the first serious crime of the settlement of Providence Plantations. +The town carpenter, a thrifty and much respected young man named Clauson, +much beloved by Roger Williams, was found dying one winter morning in 1660 +near "a clump of barberry bushes" at the parting of the paths "near Roger +Mowry's Tavern." His head was cloven open with an axe, and the dying man +accused a neighbor named Herndon of being the instigator of the crime; and +with a spirit never learned from his old master, the gentle Williams, he +left a terrible curse upon the children and children's children of John +Herndon, that they should ever "be marked with split chins and be haunted +by barberry bushes." An Indian named Wanmanitt was arrested for having +done this terrible deed, and was locked up in the Mowry Tavern. He was +probably executed for it, though the town records only contain a +preliminary story of his trial. With bills for interpreters and for a boat +and guard and powder and shot and liquor, all to go with the prisoner to +Newport jail, the Indian murderer vanishes down the bay out of history. +John Herndon lived on peacefully for many years, branded, doubtless, in +the minds of many; but there is no record that the futile imprecation of +the dying man ever was fulfilled. + +As the stage-coach runs along through old Narragansett, it comes to +another scene of crime, of horrible crime and horrible punishment--that of +hanging in chains. This demoralizing sight was almost unknown in America. +You can scarcely read a tale, a history of old English life, without +hearing of men "hanging in chains." That most popular of children's books, +_The Fairchild Family_, has a typical English scene, wherein the solemn +English father, in order to make his children love each other the more, +takes them through a lonely wood to see the body of a man hanging in +chains on a gibbet, a horrible and revolting sight. Travellers on the +Portsmouth Road in England, after the year 1786, passed at Hind Head a +gibbet with three men swinging in chains, three barbarous murderers of an +unknown sailor--not a pleasant outlook for tired riders on the coach. By +the old South Ferry in Narragansett, a man was murdered by a +fellow-traveller. At the inn where they had rested the last night one of +them spent on this earth, a woman had dressed his hair, and she noted a +curious white lock which grew like our artist Whistler's in a thick head +of black hair. On this single identification was built a chain of evidence +which ended in that unusual and terrible sight in the new world, the body +of a criminal hanging in chains. It swung there till the poor bones +dropped to the earth, and finally the great chains rusted apart. Then +schoolboys took the heavy links which had bound a sight they had not +seen, and with equal bravado and apprehension cracked open their winter +store of hickory nuts and butternuts with the last emblem of an obsolete +law. + +Not far from this scene is a crossroads which could be viewed from the +stage-coach, but I trust no traveller saw there the execution of a law as +obsolete and as barbaric as hanging in chains. + +For on this crossroads took place several of those eccentric, ridiculous +performances known as "shift-marriages." Any widow, about to be married +again, could be free from all debts of her dead husband's contracting by +being married at the crossroads, "clad only in her shift." Sometimes she +was enjoined to cross the King's Highway four times thus scantily clad. + +George Hazard, Justice, made entry in the town book of South Kingston, +Rhode Island, that Abigail Calverwell on the 22d of February, 1719, was +taken in marriage "after she had gone four times across the highway in +only her shift and hair low and no other clothing." Think of this poor +creature, on this winter's night, going through such an ordeal. Another +Narragansett widow, Jemima Hill, was married at midnight "where four roads +meet," clad only in her shift. Another entry in a town record-book +specifies that the bride had "no other clothing but shifting or smock." +Let me hasten to add that these marriages were not peculiar to Rhode +Island; they took place in many of the colonies, certainly in Pennsylvania +and in all the New England states. + +As the old Narragansett coach sped on through Connecticut, it passed +lonely spots which were noted for other sad tales and traditions, but +were ever of keen interest to all passers-by. For at the crossroads "where +four roads meet," were buried suicides, with a stake thrust through the +heart. This was a cruel old English and Dutch law. We learn from Judge +Sewall all of the public obloquy and hatred of a suicide in Massachusetts. +One poor fellow found dead was buried in disgrace under a pile of stones +at a Connecticut crossroads, but the brand of self-destruction was taken +from him at a later date, when much evidence was secured that he was +murdered. + +If our Narragansett coach went over the Ridge Hill, the driver surely +pointed out the spot where a lover once hid his coach and horses till +there rode up from a bridle-path near by the beauty of Narragansett, +"Unhappy Hannah Robinson," who jumped from her horse into the coach and +drove off headlong to Providence to be married. An elopement should end +happily, but the adjective ever attached to her name tells the tale of +disappointment, and it was not many years ere she was borne back, deserted +and dying, lying on a horse-litter, to the spacious old home of her +childhood, which is still standing. And one day down this road there came +hotly lashing his horses a gay young fellow driving tandem a pair of +Narragansett pacers, and he scarcely halted at the tavern as he asked for +the home and whereabouts of the parson. But the tavern loungers peeped +under the chariot-hood and saw a beautiful blushing girl, and they stared +at a vast, yawning, empty portmanteau, strapped by a single handle to +the chariot's back. And soon two angry young men, the bride's brothers, +rode up after the elopers, who had been tracked by the articles of the +bride's hastily gathered outfit which had been strewn from the open +portmanteau along the road in the lovers' hasty flight. Who that rides on +a railway car ever hears anything about elopements or such romances! +Parson Flagg, of Chester, Vermont, made his home a sort of Yankee Gretna +Green; the old stage-drivers could tell plenty of stories of elopers on +saddle and pillion who rode to his door. + + +[Illustration: Midsummer along the Pike.] + + +The traveller by the coach learned constant lessons from that great +teacher, Nature. Even if he were city bred he grew to know, as he saw +them, the various duties of country life, the round of work on the farm, +the succession of crops, the names of grains, and he knew each grain and +grass when he saw it, which few of city life do now. He saw the timid +flight of wild creatures, rabbits, woodchucks, squirrels, sometimes a wily +fox. My father once, riding on a stage-coach in Vermont, chased down a +mountain road a young deer that ran, bewildered, before its terrible +pursuer. At night the traveller heard strange sounds, owls and a smothered +snarl as the coach entered the woods--a catamount perhaps. He heard the +singing birds of spring and noted the game-birds of autumn; and in winter +they could watch the broad and beautiful flight of the crows, free in +snowy woods and fields from the rivalry of all fellow feathered creatures. +He saw the procession of wild flowers, though he, perhaps, did not +consciously heed them, and he knew the trees by name. The stage-driver +showed his passengers "the biggest ellum in the county," and "the best +grove of sugar-maples in the state." He pointed out a lovely vista of +white birches as "the purtiest grove o' birch on the road," and there was +a dense grove of mulberry trees, the sole survivors of silk-worm culture +in which were buried so many hours and years of hard labor, so much +hard-earned capital, so many feverish hopes. And towering a giant among +lesser brothers, a glorious pine tree still showing the mark of the broad +arrow of the King, chosen to be a mast for his great ships, but living +long after he was dead and his ships were sunken and rotten, living to be +a king itself in a republican land. + + +[Illustration: A Vista of White Birches.] + + +The foot-farer, trudging along the outskirts of the village, is often shut +out by close stone or board barriers from any sight of the flowering +country gardens, the luxuriance of whose blossoming is promised by the +heads of the tall hollyhocks that bend over and nod pleasantly to him; but +the traveller on the coach could see into these old gardens, could feast +his eyes on all the glorious tangle of larkspur and phlox, of tiger lilies +and candytuft, of snowballs and lilacs, of marigolds and asters, each +season outdoing the other in brilliant bloom. + +And what odors were wafted out from those gardens! What sweetness came +from the lilacs and deutzias and syringas; from clove-pinks and spice bush +and honeysuckles; how weird was the anise-like scent of the fraxinella or +dittany; and how often all were stifled by the box, breathing, says +Holmes, the fragrance of eternity! The great botanist Linnaeus grouped the +odors of plants and flowers into classes, of which three were pleasing +perfumes. To these he gave the titles the aromatic, the fragrant, the +ambrosial--our stage-coach traveller had them all three. + +From the fields came the scent of flowering buckwheat and mellifluous +clover, and later of new-mown hay, sometimes varied by the tonic breath of +the salt hay on the sea marshes. The orchards wafted the perfumes from +apple blossoms, and from the pure blooms of cherry and plum and pear; in +the woods the beautiful wild cherries equalled their domestic sisters. + + +[Illustration: The Hollyhocks' Promise.] + + +How sweet, how healthful, were the cool depths of the pine woods, how +clean the hemlock, spruce, fir, pine, and juniper, and how sweet and +balsamic their united perfume. And from the woods and roadsides such +varied sweetness! The faint hint of perfume from the hidden arbutus in +early spring, and the violet; the azalea truly ambrosial with its pure +honey-smell; the intense cloying clethra with the strange odor of its +bruised foliage; the meadowsweet; the strong perfume of the barberry; and +freshest, purest, best of all, the bayberry throwing off balm from every +leaf and berry. Even in the late autumn the scent of the dying brakes and +ferns were as beloved by the country-lover as the fresh smell of the +upturned earth in the spring after the farmer's plough, or the scent of +burning brush. + + +[Illustration: The Cool Depths of the Pine Woods.] + + +Fruit odors came too to the happy traveller, the faint scent of +strawberries, the wild strawberry the most spicy of all, and later of the +dying strawberry leaves; even the strong and pungent onions are far from +offensive in the open air; while the rich fruity smell of great heaps of +ripe apples in the orchards is carried farther by the acid vapors from the +cider mills, which tempt the driver to stop and let all taste new +apple-juice. + +In the days of the stage-coach we had on our summer journeys all these +delights, the scents of the wood, the field, the garden; we had the genial +sunlight, the fresh air of mountain, plain, and sea; and all the wild and +beautiful sights which made the proper time for travel--the summer--truly +joyful. Now we may enjoy a place when we get there, but we have a poor +substitute for the coach for the actual travelling--a dirty railway car +heated almost to tinder by the sun, with close foul air (and the better +the car the fouler and closer the air) filled, if we try to have fresh +air, with black smoke and cinders; clattering and noisy ever, with +occasional louder-shrieking whistles and bells, and sometimes a horrible +tunnel--it has but one redeeming quality, its speed, for thereby the +journey is shortened. + + +[Illustration: Taylor's Tavern. 1777, Danbury, Connecticut.] + + +Cheerful friends on the old roads were the milestones and guideposts. +Milestones had an assured position in social life, a dignified standing. +It would be told of a road as a great honor and distinction, and told +fitly in capitalized sentences thus, "This Elegant road is fully Set with +well-cut Milestones." A few of the old provincial milestones remain, and +put us closely in touch with the past. In Governor Hutchinson's day +milestones were set on all the post-roads throughout Massachusetts. +Several of these are still standing; one is in Worcester, in the heart of +the city, marked "42 Mls. to Boston, 50 Mls. to Springfield, 1771." +Another is in Sutton. It is five feet high and nearly three feet wide. It +is marked "48 mls. to Boston. B. W." The letters B. W. stand for +Bartholomew Woodbury, a genial tavern-keeper of Sutton. It shows a custom +which obtained at that date. It was deemed most advantageous to a tavern +to have a milestone in front of it. Possibly the tale of the stone shown +in its lettering urged wayworn travellers to halt and rest within the +welcoming door. Bartholomew Woodbury's Tavern was a few rods from the spot +marked for the stone, but the government permitted him to set this stone +by his doorside, at his own expense, beside the great horse-block. +Tavern-keeper and tavern are gone, and the old road sees few travellers. +Occasionally some passer-by, inquisitive like myself of the presence of +the old stone, will halt as did the traveller of old, and pull away the +curtain of vines, and read the lettering of this gravestone of the old +Woodbury Tavern. + + +[Illustration: M. M. Taylor's Milestone.] + + +Another landlord who appreciated that the milestone served as a magnet to +draw customers to the tavern taproom was Landlord Taylor, who kept the old +tavern known as "Taylor's," in Danbury, Connecticut. The house with the +milestone is shown on page 350 and the milestone alone on page 351. + + +[Illustration: Peleg Arnold's Milestone.] + + +Judge Peleg Arnold was one of the most active patriots in northern Rhode +Island during the Revolution; for many years he carried on a tavern at +Union Village, a suburb of Woonsocket, and his house was noted for its +excellence and hospitality. Not far from his tavern to the northward the +"Great Road" from Smithfield into Mendon wound through woods and meadows +and over the northern hills of Rhode Island. + +In 1666 this great road was a small foot-path through the woods, and was +indicated by marked trees leading from cabin to cabin; but in 1733 it had +taken upon itself the dignity of a cart-path and then became the subject +of discussions on town-meeting days. Peleg Arnold had been one of the men +to re-lay the old road, and it was near the northern boundary of his farm +that he set up the old milestone shown here. For more than a hundred and +twenty-five years this stone has served to brighten the hearts of +travellers, for they have learned to know that this silent and inanimate +guide can be relied upon as to distances with much more certainty than can +the words of residents in the neighborhood. + +When Benjamin Franklin was Postmaster-general, he set an indelible +postmark in many ways on the history of our country; and many mementos of +him still exist. Among them are the old milestones set under his +supervision. He transacted this apparently prosaic business with that +picturesque originality which he brought to all his doings and which +renders to every detail of his life an interest which cannot be exceeded +and scarcely equalled by the events recorded of any other figure in +history. + +He drove over the roads which were to be marked by milestones, seated in a +comfortable chaise, of his own planning, and followed by a gang of men, +and heavy carts laden with the milestones. Attached to the chaise was a +machine of his invention which registered by the revolution of the wheels +the number of miles the chaise passed over. At each mile he halted, and a +stone was dropped which was afterward set. The King's Highway, the old +Pequot Trail, was thus marked and set. A few of these milestones between +Boston and Philadelphia are still standing, one in New London, another at +Stratford, and are glanced at carelessly by the hundreds of thousands who +glide swiftly past on wheels bearing more accurate cyclometers than that +of Franklin. + +Guide-boards always stood at the crossings of all travelled roads; indeed, +they stood where the roads were scarce more than lines among the grass and +low shrubs. Since our day of many railroads, and above all, since the +interlacing network of trolley lines has spread over all our Eastern lands +where once the stage-coach ran, many guide-boards have disappeared and +have not been replaced. You find them often at the angles of the road +lying flat in grass and bushes; or standing split, one-sided, askew, +pointing the road to the skies, or nowhere. When in trim and good repair +in the days of their utility and helpfulness, they were friendly things, +and the pointing hand gave them a half-human semblance of cheerful aid. +Where the road led through woods or rarely frequented ways, they were +friends indeed, for all ways looked alike, and one might readily go far +astray. The mile of the guide-board was an elastic one, and sometimes a +weary one. + +Guide-boards, even poor ones, are still most welcome. No one in the +country ever has any correct estimate of distances; a distance "a little +better than three miles" before you usually increases by an extraordinary +law instead of decreases after you have driven nearly a mile to "about +four mile." The next road-jogger says "nigh on to a mile"; and then you +may be sure a few hundred feet farther on to jump back to a slow and wise +rejoinder of the original distance, "hard on to four mile." + + +[Illustration: The Watering Trough.] + + +Another wayside friend of the traveller in coaching days was the watering +trough. It was frequently a log of wood hollowed out, Indian fashion, +like a dug-out, filled with the lavish bounty of untrammelled Nature by a +cool pure rill from a hillside spring. One of these watering troughs is +shown on this page. In the days of the glory of the stage-coach and +turnpike, fine stone troughs chiselled like an Egyptian sarcophagus took +the place of the log dug-out. They had their supply from a handled pump, +which was a more prosaic vehicle than the pipe made of hollowed +tree-trunks which brought the spring-water; but it had also a certain +interest as the water spouted out in response to the vigorous pumping, and +it has been immortalized by Hawthorne. Our artesian wells, and sunken +pipes, and vast reservoir systems are infinitely better than the old-time +modes of water supply, but we miss the pleasure that came from the sight +of the water, whether it was borne to us on the picturesque well-sweep by +wheel and bucket, or old chain pump; it was good to look at as well as to +taste, and it refreshed man even to see cattle and horses drinking from +the primitive trough. + +There is always something picturesque and pleasant in an old bridge, and +of historic associations as well. The great logs such as form a wooden +bridge over a narrow stream are the most natural waterspans, those of the +primitive savages. By fallen tree-trunks placed or utilized by the +Indians, the colonists first crossed the inland streams, adding parallel +trunks as years passed on and helping hands multiplied; and finally +placing heavy, flat cross-timbers and boards when hand-saws and sawmills +shaped the forests' wealth for domestic use. + +The old arched stone bridges are ever a delight to the eye and the +thoughtful mind. Look at the picture of the old Topsfield Bridge shown on +the opposite page. It was built in 1760 over the Ipswich River. It shows +the semicircle--simplest of all arched forms--which is happily within the +compass and ever the selection of rustic builders. The shallow voussoirs +speak of security and economy rather than of monumental effect; the +irregular shape and size of the stones tell a similar tale, that there was +ample and fitting material near by, in every field. The arched stone +bridge is a primitive structure; the sort of construction that may be +found in the so-called "Cyclopean" walls of earliest Greece; and this very +simplicity is a distinct beauty, that, added to its fitness and +durability, makes the bridge a thing of satisfaction. + + +[Illustration: Topsfield Bridge.] + + +How charming are the reflections in the stilly waters, the arch making the +perfect circle, ever an attractive and symbolic form. How cool and +beautiful is the shadowy water under these stone arches; but it cannot be +reached by the rider in stage-coach or on horseback, as can the brook +spanned by a wooden bridge. This has often a watering place which spreads +out on one side of the road, a shoal pool of clear, crystal, dancing +water. The bottom is cut with the ruts of travellers' wheels, but the +water is pure and glistening; the pool is edged heavily with mint and +thoroughwort and a tangle of greenery pierced with a few glorious scarlet +spires of cardinal flowers, and some duller blooms. How boys love to wade +in these pools, and dogs to swim in them, and horses to drink from them. +The wooden bridge seems in midsummer a useless structure, fit only to +serve as a trellis for clematis and sweet brier and many running vines, +and to be screened with azalea, clethra, and elder, and scores of +sweet-flowered shrubs that add their scent to the strong odor of mint that +fills the air, as the sensitive leaves are bruised by careless contact. + + +[Illustration: The Shadowy Water under the Arches.] + + +There was a closeness of association in stage-coach travel which made +fellow-passengers companionable. One would feel a decided intimacy with a +fellow-sufferer who had risen several mornings in succession with you, at +daybreak, and ridden all night, cheek by jowl. Even fellow-travellers on +short trips entered into conversation, and the characteristic +inquisitiveness was shown. Ralph Waldo Emerson took great delight in this +experience of his in stage-coach travel. A sharp-featured, keen-eyed, +elderly Yankee woman rode in a Vermont coach opposite a woman deeply +veiled and garbed in mourning attire, and the older woman thus entered +into conversation: "Have you lost friends?" "Yes," was the answer, "I +have." "Was they near friends?" "Yes, they was." "How near was they?" +"A husband and a brother." "Where did they die?" "Down in Mobile." "What +did they die of?" "Yellow fever." "How long was they sick?" "Not very +long." "Was they seafaring men?" "Yes, they was." "Did you save their +chists?" "Yes, I did." "Was they hopefully pious?" "I hope so." "Well, _if +you have got their chists_ (with emphasis) and they was hopefully pious, +you've got much to be thankful for." Perhaps this conversation should be +recorded in the succeeding chapter, but in truth the pleasures and pains +of stage-coach travel ran so closely side by side that they can scarce be +separated. Many pleasant intimacies and acquaintances were begun on the +stage-coach; flirtations, even courtships, were carried on. One gentleman +remembers that when he was a big schoolboy he rode on the coach from +Pittsfield, New Hampshire, to Dover, and he cast sheep's-eyes at a pretty +young woman who was a fellow-passenger. He had just gathered courage to +address her with some bold, manly remark when the coach stopped and a +middle-aged man of importance entered. Soon all other passengers got out +and the three were left in the coach; and the Boy heard the Man recall +himself to the Girl as having been her teacher when she was a child. He +soon proceeded to make love to her, and made her a proposal of marriage, +which she did not refuse, but asked a week's time to consider. "And during +all this courting," said my informant, with indignant reminiscence after +fifty years, "they paid no more attention to my presence than if I had +been Pickwick's Fat Boy." + +The pleasures of coaching days have been written by many an English author +in forcible and beautiful language. Thomas De Quincey sang in most glowing +speech the glories of the English mail-coach. He says:-- + + "Modern modes of travelling cannot compare with the old mail-coach + system in grandeur and power. They boast of more velocity, not, + however, as a consciousness, but as a fact of our lifeless knowledge, + resting upon _alien_ evidence; as, for instance, because somebody + _says_ that we have gone fifty miles in the hour, though we are far + from feeling it as a personal experience; or upon the evidence of a + result, as that we actually find ourselves in York four hours after + leaving London. Apart from such an assertion, or such a result, I + myself am little aware of the pace. But seated on the old mail-coach + we needed no evidence out of ourselves to indicate the velocity.... + The vital experiences of the glad animal sensibilities made doubts + impossible on the question of our speed. We heard our speed, we saw + it, we felt it a-thrilling; and this speed was not the product of + blind insensate energies that had no sympathy to give, but was + incarnated in the fiery eyeballs of the noblest among brutes, in his + dilated nostril, his spasmodic muscles and thunder-beating hoofs." + +Nothing more magnificent and inspiring could be written than his _Going +Down with Victory_--the carrying the news of the victory at Waterloo on +the mail-coach to English hamlets and towns; it is a gem of English +literature. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +THE PAINS OF STAGE-COACH TRAVEL + + +In describing the pleasures and pains, the delights and dangers, the +virtues and vicissitudes of the travel of early days by stage-coach in +America, I have chosen to employ largely the words and descriptions of +contemporary travellers rather than any wording of my own, not only +because any such description of mine would be simply a transcription of +their facts, but because there is a sense of closeness of touch, a +pleasant intimacy, and indeed a profound sympathy thereby established with +those old travellers and modes of travel which cannot be obtained by +modern wording; nor indeed can their descriptions and travellers' tales be +improved. Careless or ignorant writers often portray early stage-coach +travel in America in the same terms as would be used of similar travel in +England, and as having the same accessories; it was in truth very +different in nearly all of its conditions, as different as were the +vehicles used in America. + +I do not believe that travellers in coaching days found much pleasure in +long journeys by stage-coach. They doubtless enjoyed short trips, or +possibly a day on a coach, as we do now, but serious travel was serious +indeed. In winter it must have appeared a slow form of lingering death. + +Grant Thorburn, the New York seedsman, tells of the first journey he ever +made by land. It was in the winter of 1831; he was then fifty-eight years +old. + + "We left Hoboken with about fifteen passengers closely packed in a + stage with wheels, and a very neat coach, and so foolish was I and + ignorant (never having travelled on land) I thought this same fine + close carriage would go through thick and thin with me all the way to + Albany: in two short hours my eyes were opened. We stopped in + Hackensack at a tavern grocery grogshop and post-office all under one + roof, for we carried Uncle Sam's letter bags, which was another + grievance, as we had to stop every few miles to change the mails. The + keeper of the office began to bluster and swear he had neither + carriages covered or uncovered to forward so many passengers. He said + the Jockey Club in New York took all the money and gave him all the + trouble. In short, says he, unless you remain here till four o'clock + P.M. you must go on with such conveyance as I can furnish. We applied + to our Hoboken driver. He said his orders were to drop us at + Hackensack and bring back the coaches; and sure enough he turned about + and back he went. I stepped into the barroom--a large place. In the + centre stood a large old-fashioned tin-plate stove, surrounded by + fifteen or twenty large lazy fellows. After waiting an hour we were + sent forward, viz. two in an open chair, four in an open wagon, and + the remainder, eight I think, in a common Jersey farming wagon, all + the machines being without covers. It now commenced raining, and by + the time we got to the next stage, we looked like moving pillars of + salt, our hats and coats being covered to the thickness of an eighth + of an inch with ice transparents. At the town of Goshen we changed + the mail, thawed our garments, and ate our dinner. As we got north the + sleighing got better, so we were accommodated with a covered box and + runners, but alas! it was like the man's lantern without a candle. The + cover was of white wood boards placed a quarter of an inch apart + without paint, leather, or canvas to protect them from the weather. + + "We travelled all night. The rain and snow descending through the + roof, our hats were frozen to our capes, and our cloaks to one + another. In the morning we looked like some mountain of ice moving + down the Gulf Stream. I thought the machine used at the Dry Dock would + have been an excellent appendage to have lifted us bodily into the + breakfast room: and this is what the horse-flesh fraternity in New + York advertise as their _safe_, _cheap_, _comfortable_, and + expeditious winter establishment for Albany." + + +[Illustration: Dalton Winter Stage.] + + +This latter account is certainly a hard blow to the lover of the "good old +times." Of tough fibre and of vast powers of endurance, both mental and +physical, must have been our grandfathers who dared to travel overland in +winter time. Coaches were often "snowed up" and had to be deserted by the +passengers, who were rescued in old pods and pungs, such as are shown on +pages 316 and 318, and the journey had to be continued in some of the +awkward coach-bodies or "boobies" set on runners like those on pages 362 +and 364. Coaches were also overturned or blown off bridges by heavy winds. + +Somewhat varied was Captain Hall's experience on the trip from +Fredericksburg to Richmond during the following January. The stage-coach +was appointed to start at 2 A.M., but at the blank looks of the captain, +the stage agent said, "Well, if it is so disagreeable to the ladies, +suppose we make it five?" The fare was five dollars. It took seventeen +hours to travel the sixty-six miles, and the coach stopped at ten taverns +on the way. At each his fellow-passengers all got out and took a mint +julep; perhaps he did likewise, which might account for the fact that he +pronounced the trip a pleasant one, though it rained; "your feet get wet; +your clothes become plastered with mud from the wheel; the trunks drink in +half a gallon of water apiece; the gentlemen's boots and coats steamed in +the confined air; the horses are draggled and chafed by the traces; the +driver got his neckcloth saturated"--and yet, he adds, "the journey was +performed pleasantly." + + +[Illustration: Chepachet Winter Stage.] + + +There were days in July, in midsummer, when in spite of the beauties of +Nature, the journey by stage-coach on the unwatered roads was not a thing +of pleasure. Whether on "inside" or "outside," the traveller could not +escape the dust, nor could he escape the fervor of the July sun. And when +the eye turned for relief to green pastures and roadsides, there was +reflected back to him the heated gold of the sunlight, for the fields +flamed with yellow and orange color. Sometimes accidents occurred. One may +be described, using the contemporary account of it to show what danger was +incurred and through what motive powers. In January, 1823, there was a +sharp competition between the two stage lines running between Albany and +New York, and apparently the stage-drivers on the rival lines could no +more be kept from racing than the old-time steamboat captain. The accident +was thus told in a newspaper of the day:-- + + "_To the Public_: The stage from New York to Albany was overset on the + Highlands, on Friday last, with six passengers on board; one of whom, + a gentleman from Vermont, had his collar-bone broken, and the others + were more or less injured, and all placed in the utmost jeopardy of + their lives and limbs by the outrageous conduct of the driver. In + descending a hill half a mile in length, an opposition stage being + ahead, the driver put his horses in full speed to pass the forward + stage, and in this situation the stage overset with a heavy crash + which nearly destroyed it, and placed the wounded passengers in a + dreadful dilemma, especially as the driver could not assist them, as + it required all his efforts to restrain the frighted horses from + dashing down the hill which must have destroyed them all. It was, + therefore, with the greatest difficulty, and by repeated efforts, the + wounded passengers extricated themselves from the wreck of the stage. + Such repeated wanton and wilful acts of drivers to gratify their + caprice, ambition, or passions, generally under the stimulus of ardent + spirits, calls aloud on the community to expose and punish these + shameful aggressions." + +It should be added, in truth, that accidents on stage-coaches were seldom +with fatal results. Stage-coach travel was more disagreeable than deadly. +A stage-coach driver who had driven three hundred days a year for +thirty-five years, could boast that there had never been a serious +accident while he was driving, and scarcely any injury had been received +by any passenger. + +Before the days of the turnpike the miserable bridges, especially of the +Southern colonies, added to the terrors of travel, though I have not +learned of frequent accidents upon them. The poet Moore wrote in the year +1800 of Virginia bridges:-- + + "Made of a few uneasy planks + In open ranks, + Over rivers of mud." + +Near Fayetteville, North Carolina, in 1812, a traveller by coach thus +found the bridge:-- + + "Three large logs were stretched across the creek, called sleepers, + and these supported a number of misshapen pieces called rafters, + thrown on at random, without being fixed either by nails or pins. + They had been disturbed by a freshet, and the driver alighted to + adjust them. On entering the bridge, the fore wheels gathered the + rafters in a heap which stopped the progress of the coach. This was + just as the driver was whipping up the fore horses. They sprang + forward, and disengaging themselves with a jerk, by pulling out the + staple of the main singletree, they set off at full speed with the + singletree rattling at their heels." + +One horse was killed, the patient passengers alighted and pulled the coach +free themselves. At the next creek the horses plunged in the water and +swam across, while the passengers held up the mail-bags to keep them dry. +Weld tells of similar bridges and experiences in 1795 in Virginia. + +Many of the bridges were rickety floating bridges. Mr. Twining experienced +the sense of insecurity, the dread of sinking, which I have also felt in +crossing a floating bridge in a heavy vehicle. + +Mr. Twining tells also of the constant necessity of trimming and balancing +of the stage-wagon by all the passengers leaning to one side to prevent it +from overturning in the deep ruts which abounded. Mr. Weld wrote that the +driver "frequently called out, 'Now, gentlemen, to the right,' upon which +all the passengers stretched their bodies halfway out of the carriage to +balance on that side. 'Now, gentlemen, to the left,' and so on." + +One traveller tells of a facetious travelling companion,-- + + "'A son of Neptune and of Mars also,' and could adapt the technical + language of these professions to the different movements of the + stage. When the coach heeled to one side he would call out, 'To the + right and left and cover your flanks--Whiz!'--and when we passed a + stream or ford he would sing out, 'By the deep nine,' accompanied with + all the movements of heaving the lead. The day was clear, pleasant, + and healthy; and in this strain of merriment and good humor we + prosecuted our journey much to our satisfaction." + +Folk were easily amused in coaching days. One of the old stage-drivers +tells the following incident of stage travel. He was driving from Dover, +New Hampshire, to Haverhill, Massachusetts. During the spring months the +roads were often in a bad condition, and six horses and sometimes ten were +needed to draw the coach. In Epping, New Hampshire, was a particularly +hard place, locally known as the "Soap mine." Through this mine of mud the +driver hoped to guide his coach and six. But the coach was heavily loaded, +and in spite of the efforts of the skilful driver the team was soon fast +in the mud, the wheels settling to the hubs. All attempts of the horses to +start the coach were in vain. The driver finally climbed down from his +seat, opened the coach door and told the passengers the condition of +things, and politely asked them to get out and thereby lighten the load. +This they all positively refused to do; they had paid their fares and did +not think it their duty to get out into the mud. The driver said, "Very +well," quietly closed the door, and seated himself by the roadside. In a +few minutes the passengers asked, "What are you doing there?" The +driver calmly replied: "The horses cannot draw the load. There is only one +thing I can do. I shall wait until the mud dries up." + + +[Illustration: Advertisements from Connecticut Journal, July 3, 1815.] + + +It is needless to say that they did not wait for the mud to dry. + +The state of the roads and the regard of some persons for stage-coach +travelling is shown in a letter written early in this century by a mother +to a girl of eighteen, visiting at Cambridge, and impatient to return +home. As the roads were bad her father delayed his going for her. Her +mother says:-- + + "Your papa would not trust your life in the stage. It is a very unsafe + and improper conveyance for young ladies. Many have been the + accidents, many the cripples made by accidents in those vehicles. As + soon as your papa can go, you may be sure he will go or send for you." + +There was one curious and most depressing, even appalling, condition of +stage-coach travel. It seemed to matter little how long was your journey, +nor where you were going, nor whence you started, your coach always +started before daybreak. You had to rise in the dark, dress in the dark +most feebly illumined, eat a hurriedly prepared breakfast in the dark, and +start out in the blackness of night or the depressing chill of early +morning. We read that the greatest number of deaths take place in the +early morning, at daybreak, and it is not surprising, since it is the +time, of all the hours of the day, when earth offers the least to the +human soul to tempt it to remain here. It is no unusual thing to read in +travellers' accounts of journeys by stage-coach, of riding ten miles on +the coach, and then--breakfasting. We cannot wonder, therefore, at the +records of incessant dram-drinking during coach travel which we always +find in any minute accounts. + +An English eye-witness, Captain Basil Hall, thus described the beginning +of a trip from Providence to Hartford in October, 1829:-- + + "The nominal hour of starting was five in the morning; but as + everything in America comes sooner than one expects, a great tall man + walked into the room at ten minutes before four o'clock to say it + wanted half an hour of five: and presently we heard the rumbling of + the stage coming to the door upwards of thirty minutes before the time + specified. Fortunately there were only five passengers, so we had + plenty of room; and as the morning was fine we might have enjoyed the + journey much, had we not been compelled to start so miserably early. + At the village of Windham we dined in a cheerful sunny parlour on a + neatly dressed repast excellent in every way, and with very pleasant + chatty company." + +So forehanded were American coach-agents and coach-drivers that such +premature starts were not infrequent. Many a time an indignant passenger, +on time, but left behind, was sent off after the coach in a chaise with a +swift horse at full gallop. + +Josiah Quincy tells thus of a trip on the Lancaster road during the winter +of 1826:-- + + "At three o'clock this morning the light of a candle under the door + and a rousing knock told me that it was time to depart, and shortly + after I left Philadelphia by the Lancaster stage, otherwise a vast + illimitable wagon, capable of holding some sixteen passengers with + decent comfort to themselves, and actually encumbered with some dozen + more. After riding till eight o'clock we reached the breakfast house, + where we partook of a good meal." + + +[Illustration: "A Wet Start at Daybreak."] + + +Longfellow wrote of his first acquaintance, in the year 1840, with the +Wayside Inn, otherwise Howe's Tavern, at Sudbury, Massachusetts: "The +stage left Boston about three o'clock in the morning, reaching the Sudbury +Tavern for breakfast, a considerable portion of the route being travelled +in total darkness, and without your having the least idea who your +companion might be." + +Charles Sumner, writing in 1834 of a trip to Washington, says: "We started +from Boston at half-past three Monday morning with twelve passengers and +their full complement of baggage on board, and with six horses. The way +was very dark, so that, though I rode with the driver, it was some time +before I discovered we had six horses." + +The unfortunate soul who wished or was forced to travel from Boston to New +York in 1802 was permitted a very decent start at ten in the morning. He +arrived in Worcester at eight at night. Thereafter at Worcester, Hartford, +and Stamford he had to start at three in the morning and ride till eight +at night. We can imagine his condition when arriving in New York. The +Lancaster and Leominster stages left Boston at sunrise. John Melish, the +English traveller, in 1795, was called to start at two in the morning, +when he set out from Boston to New York. Badger and Porter's Stage +Register for 1829 gives the time of starting of the stage to Fitchburg as +2 A.M.; the Albany stage was the same hour. The stage for Keene set out at +4 A.M., and the one for Bennington at 2 A.M. The stage for Norwich, +Connecticut, in 1833 started at 3 A.M. In 1842, the Albany coach left at 4 +A.M. When we remember the meagre "light of other days," the pale rays of a +candle, usually a tallow one, the smoky flicker of a whale-oil lamp, the +dingy shadow of an ancient lantern, we can fancy the gloom of that early +morning departure; and when it was made in snow, or fog, or rain, there +seemed but scant romance in travel by stage-coach. A fine picture by Mr. +Edward Lamson Henry, "A Wet Start at Daybreak," is reproduced opposite +page 370. It is interesting and picturesque--to look at; but it was not +interesting to experience. + + +[Illustration: The Wayside Inn.] + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +KNIGHTS OF THE ROAD + + +It is impossible to read of the conditions of life on the public highway +in England and not wonder at the safety and security with which all travel +was carried on in the American colonies. In Great Britain shop-robbing, +foot-padding, street assaults, and highway robberies were daily incidents. +Stage-coach passengers were specially plundered. From end to end of +England was heard the cry of "Stand and deliver." Day after day, for weeks +together, the Hampstead, Islington, Dover, and Hackney coaches were +stopped in broad daylight, and the passengers threatened and robbed. The +mail from Bristol to London was robbed every week for five weeks. Scores +of prisoners were taken, and scores more strung up on the gallows; many +were shipped off to the Plantations because on hanging day at Tyburn, +there was not room enough on the gallows for the convicted men. All +classes turned outlaws. Well-to-do farmers and yeomen organized as +highwaymen in the Western counties under the name of "the Blacks." +Justices and landed gentry leagued with "the Owlers" to rob, to smuggle, +and defraud the customs. Even Adam Smith confessed to a weakness for +smuggling. + +Travellers journeyed with a prayer-book in one hand and a pistol in the +other. Nothing of this was known in America. Citizens of the colonies +travelled unhampered by either religion or fear. Men and women walked +through our little city streets by night and day in safety. The footpads +and highwaymen who were transported to this country either found new modes +of crimes or ceased their evil deeds. + +Not only on convict ships came highwaymen to America. As redemptioners +many rogues came hither, sure thus of passage across-seas and trusting to +luck or craft to escape the succeeding years of bound labor. Among the +honest men seized in English ports, kidnapped, and shipped to America were +found some thieves and highwaymen, but all--whether "free-willers," +convicts, or "kids"--seemed to drop highway robbery in the new world. We +were nigh to having one famous thief. Great Moll Cutpurse, had her +resources been of lesser sort, had been landed in Virginia, for she was +trapanned and put aboard ship, but escaped ere ship set sail. Perhaps +'twould have been of small avail, for in Virginia, with its dearth of +wives, even such a sturdy jade as Moll, "a very tomrig and rumpscuttle," +sure had found a husband and consequent domestic sobriety. + +There was one very good reason why there was little highway robbery in +America. Early in our history men began to use drafts and bills of +exchange, where the old world clung to cash. English travellers persisted +in carrying gold and bank-notes, while we carried cheques and letters of +credit. To this day the latter form of money-transfer is more common with +Americans than with the English. Express messengers in the far West +carrying gold did not have to wait long for a Jesse James. But our typical +American scamp has ever been the tramp, formerly the vagabond, not the +highwayman; though the horse thief kept him close companion. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Perkins Inn, Hopkinton, New Hampshire.] + + +By this absence of the highwaymen, our story of the road has lost much of +its picturesqueness and color. I have envied the English road-annalists +their possession of these gay and dashing creatures. Their reckless +buoyancy, their elegance, their gallantry, their humor, make me long to +adopt them and set them on our staid New England roads or on Pennsylvania +turnpikes. Dick Turpin, Claude Duval, Beau Brocade--how I should love to +have them hold up Benjamin Franklin or John Adams! + +There was no lack of rogues in the colonies, but their roguery did not +take the outlet of highway robbery. One Henry Tufts, a famous vagabond, +has left an amusing and detailed history of his life and deeds. He stole +scores of horses by sneaking methods, but never by open seizure on the +road. He began his wrong-doing after the universal custom of all bad boys +(but why be invidious?--of all good boys, too), by robbing orchards. He +soon raised himself to be a leader in deviltry by the following manoeuvre. +A group of bad boys were to have a stolen feast of bread and cucumbers; +for the latter esteemed viand they raided a cucumber patch. As they seated +themselves to gorge upon their ill-gotten fare, Henry Tufts raised a cry +that the robbed cucumber farmer was upon them. All fled, but Tufts quickly +returned and ate all the feast himself. He survived the cucumbers, but +pretended to his confederates that he had been captured and had promised +to work out the value of the spoils in a week's hard labor. This work +sentence he persuaded them to share; he then farmed out the lot of young +workmen at a profit, while they thought themselves nobly sharing his +punishment. He lived to great old age, and, though at the last he "carried +his dish pretty uprightly," it was by taking a hand at forgery and +counterfeiting that he lived when burglary became arduous; his nature, +though irretrievably bad, was never bold enough to venture his life by +robbing on the highway. + +A very interesting thread of Tuft's story is his connection with the War +of the Revolution; and it awakens deep compassion for Washington and his +fellow-generals when we think how many such scamps and adventurers must +have swarmed into the Federal army, to the disorder of the regiments and +to their discredit and to the harassment alike of patriot officers and +patriot soldiers. There were frequent aggressions at the hands of rogues +in the Middle states, and they became known by the name of Skinners. +Cooper's novel, _The Spy_, gives an account of these sneaking bands of +sham patriots. Among those who allied themselves on the side of the King +was a family of notorious scoundrels, five brothers named Doane. + +The story of the Doanes is both tragic and romantic. They were sons of +respectable Quaker parents of Bucks County, Pennsylvania, and during the +Revolutionary War became celebrated for their evil deeds. They were all +men of remarkable physical development, tall, strong, athletic, and all +fine horsemen. Before the war they were of good reputation, and it is said +proposed to remain neutral; but the Doanes were not permitted to take a +middle course, and soon enrolled themselves as Tories, which at once +engendered a bitter feeling between them and their Whig neighbors. They +began their career of infamy by robbing and plundering in the +neighborhood, gradually extending their field of operations into +neighboring counties. Sabine's _Loyalists_ gives the names of three other +Doanes--kinsmen who were allied with the five brothers in their evil +deeds. Their place in historical books and history comes to them through +their services to the British officers during the war. In a dingy +chap-book entitled _Annals of the Revolution, or a History of the Doanes_, +full credit is assigned to Moses Doane for giving information to General +Howe, and planning with him the stratagem which led to the victories of +the British on Long Island. The Edge Hill skirmish, laid out by Doane and +agreed to by Howe and Lord Cornwallis, was to be an important move of the +British. The move was lost by the prompt and brave action of Mrs. Lydia +Darrach, who overheard the plot and carried news of it to Washington. In +the terrible massacre at Wyoming the Doanes took prominent part. The close +of the war seemed but to increase their career of crime. Each brother had +a sled drawn by four horses. There was heavy snow and a long season of +sleighing in 1782, and they fairly raided the entire state, robbing again +and again on the highway. At last an act was passed by the General +Assembly of Pennsylvania "to encourage the speedy apprehending and +bringing to justice of divers Robbers, Burglars, and Felons," naming the +Doanes, and offering a large reward for their capture and a gift of L150 +to any person injured in helping to arrest them, or L300 to the family of +such a helper should he be killed while aiding the cause of justice. + +Joseph Doane was finally secured in prison. He broke jail, however, and +escaped to New Jersey, where, like many another thief and rogue of his +day, he found occupation as a school-teacher. He then fled to Canada, and +died peacefully at an advanced age. Two brothers, Abraham and Mahlon, were +hanged in Philadelphia. Moses, the leader of the outlaws, had the most +tragic end. He was the most cruel and powerful of them all; of famous +athletic powers, it was said he could run and jump over a Conestoga +wagon. In the latter part of the summer of 1783, the Doanes went to the +house of one Halsey who lived on Gallows Run, and asked for something to +eat, and Halsey sent his son to a neighboring mill to get flour for them. +The boy told that the Doanes were at his father's house, and the miller +sent the word to a vendue in the neighborhood. A party of fourteen armed +and mounted men promptly started to capture them. The house was +surrounded. On approaching the men saw through the clinks of the logs the +Doanes eating at table, with their guns standing near. William Hart opened +the door and commanded them to surrender, but they seized their arms and +fired. Hart seized Moses Doane, threw him down, and secured him. Then +Robert Gibson rushed into the cabin and shot Doane in the breast, killing +him instantly. Colonel Hart sent the body of the dead outlaw to his +unhappy father, who was also tried for sheltering the robbers, and burnt +in the hand and imprisoned. + + +[Illustration: Russel Tavern, Arlington, Massachusetts.] + + +The most noted scourge of the eighteenth century was Tom Bell. He was for +years the torment of the Middle colonies, alike in country and in town. He +was the despair of magistrates, the plague of sheriffs, the dread of +householders, and the special pest of horse-owners. Meagre advertisements +in the contemporary newspapers occasionally show his whereabouts and +doings. This is from the _New York Weekly Post Boy_ of November 5, 1744:-- + + "The noted Tom Bell was last week seen by several who knew him walking + about this city with a large Patch on his face and wrapt up in a Great + Coat, and is supposed to be still lurking." + +Two years later, in April 14, 1746, we read:-- + + "Tuesday last the famous and Notorious Villain Tom Bell was + apprehended in this city and committed to Jail on Suspicion of selling + a Horse he had hired some time ago of an Inhabitant of Long Island. + His accuser 'tis said has sworn expressly to his Person, + notwithstanding which he asserts his Innocence with a most undaunted + Front and matchless Impudence. We hear his trial is to come off this + week." + +His most famous piece of deviltry was his impersonation of a pious parson +in New Jersey. He preached with as much vigor as he stole, and his +accidental resemblance to the minister increased his welcome and his scope +for thieving. So convinced was the entire community that it was the real +parson who robbed their houses and stole their horses, that on his return +to his parish he was thrust into prison, and a clerical friend who +protested against this indignity was set in a pillory in Trenton for false +swearing. Still, Tom Bell was not a highwayman of the true English stamp; +he more closely resembled a sneak thief. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Gifford's Tavern.] + + +In the year 1741 the little child of Cornelius Cook, the blacksmith of +Westborough, Massachusetts, and of his wife Eunice, lay very close to +death. As was the custom of the day, the good old parson, Dr. Parkman, and +his deacons prayed earnestly over the boy, that the Lord's will be done; +but his mother in her distress pleaded thus: "Only spare his life, and I +care not what he becomes." Tom Cook recovered, and as years passed on it +became evident by his mischievous and evil deeds that he had entered into +a compact with the devil, perhaps by his mother's agonized words, perhaps +by his own pledge. The last year of this compact was at an end, and the +devil appeared to claim his own as Tom was dressing for another day's +mischief. Tom had all his wits about him, for he lived upon them. "Wait, +wait, can't you," he answered the imperative call of his visitor, "till I +get my galluses on?" The devil acquiesced to this last request, when Tom +promptly threw the suspenders in the fire, and therefore could never put +them on nor be required to answer the devil's demands. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Wells' Tavern.] + + +Tom Cook became well known throughout Massachusetts, and indeed throughout +New England, as a most extraordinary thief. His name appears in the +records of scores of New England towns; he was called "the honest thief"; +and his own name for himself was "the leveller." He stole from the rich +and well-to-do with the greatest boldness and dexterity, equalled by the +kindness and delicacy of feeling shown in the bestowal of his booty upon +the poor and needy. He stole the dinner from the wealthy farmer's kitchen +and dropped it into the kettle or on the spit in a poor man's house. He +stole meal and grain from passing wagons and gave it away before the +drivers' eyes. A poor neighbor was ill, and her bed was poor. He went to a +thrifty farm-house, selected the best feather bed in the house, tied it in +a sheet, carried it downstairs and to the front door, and asked if he +could leave his bundle there for a few days. The woman recognized him and +forbade him to bring it within doors, and he went off with an easy +conscience. + +In Dr. Parkman's diary, now in the library of the American Antiquarian +Society at Worcester, under the date of August 27, 1779, is this entry: +"The notorious Thom. Cook came in (he says) on Purpose to see me. I gave +him w{t} admonition, Instruction, and Caution I could--I beseech God to +give it force! He leaves me with fair Words--thankful and promising." +There came a time when his crime of arson or burglary led to his trial, +conviction, and sentence to death. He heard the awful words of the judge, +"I therefore sentence you to be hanged by the neck till you are dead, +dead, dead," and he called out cheerfully, "I shall not be there on that +day, day, day." And when that day came, surely enough, his cell was empty. + +Tom Cook was most attractive in personal appearance; agile, well formed, +well featured, with eyes of deepest blue, most piercing yet most kindly in +expression. He was adored by children, and his pockets were ever filled +with toys which he had stolen for their amusement. By older persons he was +feared and disliked. He extorted from many wealthy farmers an annual toll, +which exempted them from his depredations. One day a fire was seen rising +from the chimney of a disused schoolhouse in Brookline, and Tom was caught +within roasting a stolen goose, which he had taken from the wagon of a +farmer on his way to market. The squire took him to the tavern, which was +filled with farmers and carters, many of whom had been his victims. He +was given his choice of trial and jail, or to run a gantlet of the men +assembled. He chose the latter, and the long whips of the teamsters paid +out many an old score of years' standing. + +A very amusing story of highway robbery is told of John Buckman of +Buckman's Tavern, of Lexington, Massachusetts (which is shown on page 23). +An old toper bought a bottle of rum, and the by-standers jokingly asked +him what he would do if he were attacked on the road. He answered solemnly +that he would rather give up his life than his rum. John Buckman slipped +out of the room, took a brass candlestick that had a slide that could be +snapped with a noise like the trigger of a pistol. He waylaid the +rum-lover not far from the tavern, and terrified him so that he quickly +gave up his beloved bottle. This was a famous joke when John told it in +the tavern taproom, but John did not laugh the next day when he was +arrested for highway robbery and fined fifty dollars. + +In the year 1818 there took place the nearest approach to a highway +robbery on the English methods that had ever happened in America. It was +the robbery of the mail-coach which ran between Baltimore and +Philadelphia. The story is thus told by one of the victims:-- + + "HAVRE DE GRACE, + "Thursday morning, 4 o'clock. + + "JOHN H. BARNEY, Esq., + + "_Sir_: I take the earliest opportunity to send you by an express an + account of what happened to the mail last evening. About 2 miles from + this place the driver of your mail wagon and myself were attacked by + three highwaymen, each armed with a double barrelled pistol and a + dirk. They had, previous to our arrival, built a rail fence across the + road, and immediately on our driving up they leaped from behind the + same, where they lay concealed, and presented their pistols, + threatening to blow our brains out if we made any resistance. We were + then carried some distance from the road into the woods; there they + tied the driver and myself to a tree and commenced searching the mail. + Every letter was opened and all the bank notes taken out; they showed + me a large bundle of bills, and I much fear the loss will be found + very great. They were from 11 until 3 o'clock busily employed in + opening the letters. After they had done this they tied us to the back + of the wagon, mounted three of the horses and galloped off towards + Baltimore. They were all white men--had their faces blackened, and + neither of them appeared more than 20. I have just arrived at this + place and have stated the facts to the deputy postmaster, who will use + every exertion to recover the letters that remain in the woods. They + did not take anything belonging to me, & appeared not to wish anything + but bank notes. They were all dressed in sailor's trowsers and round + jackets, & were about the middle size; two wearing hats & the other + having a silk handkerchief tied around his head. + + "I am your obt. servt. + "THOS. W. LUDLOW. + + "P. S. They called each other by their several names--Johnson, Gibson, + and Smith, but I expect they were fictitious." + +At that date and season of the year the "Eastern mail," on account of the +heavy roads, was carried in a light carriage called a dearborn, with four +horses. This Lieutenant Ludlow of the United States Navy obtained +permission to accompany the driver in this mail-carriage. They left +Baltimore at three o'clock and were held up at eleven. One robber desired +to shoot Lieutenant Ludlow and the driver, but the others objected, and, +on leaving, offered the driver ten dollars. They took no money from +Ludlow, and though they looked at his handsome gold repeater to learn the +time, they carefully returned it to his pocket. The very next day two men +named Hare, known to be journeymen tailors of Baltimore, entered a +clothing shop in that city, and made such a lavish display of money that +they were promptly arrested, and over twenty thousand dollars in money and +drafts was found upon them. They were puny fellows, Levi Hare being but +twenty years old, and contemporary accounts say "one person of average +strength could easily manage them both." + +The total amount of bills and drafts recovered amounted to ninety thousand +dollars, and made the robbery the largest ever attempted. A few days later +a third brother Hare was arrested, and thirteen hundred dollars was found +in his house. The third robber proved to be John Alexander. + +A Baltimore newspaper dated May 18, gives an account of the sentence of +the three men after their interesting trial:-- + + "On Thursday last John Alexander, Joseph T. Hare, and Lewis Hare were + brought before Court to receive sentence. Judge Duval presided--first + addressed Lewis Hare and sentenced him to ten years' imprisonment--J. + T. Hare and Alexander sentenced to death. As Jos. T. Hare was + proceeding from the Court House to prison accompanied by the + constable, they had to cross Jones' Falls, over which the trunk of a + tree was laid for foot passengers to walk on; when they arrived in the + middle of the creek Hare made an attempt to release his hands from his + irons, and to knock the constable into the creek; it proved fruitless, + but in the scuffle Hare tore off the lappelle of the constable's coat. + After he reached prison he made an attack on the turnkey and nearly + bit off his finger." + +I have seen an amusing old chap-book entitled _The Life of the Celebrated +Mail Robber and Daring Highwayman Joseph Thompson Hare_, and it has a +comical illustration of "The Scuffle between Hare and the Constable," in +which the constable, much dressed up in tight trousers, tailed coat, and +high silk hat, struggles feebly with the outlaw as they balance like +acrobats on the narrow tree-trunk. + +The whole account of this mail robbery has a decidedly tame flavoring. The +pale tailors, so easily overcoming a presumably brave naval officer and a +government mail-carrier; the leisurely ransacking of the mail-bags; the +speedy and easy arrest of the tailors and recovery of their booty, and the +astonishing simplicity of transporting the scantily guarded felon across a +creek on a fallen tree as though on a pleasant country ramble, all combine +to render it far from being a tale of terror or wild excitement. + +The account of the death of the highwayman is thus told in the _Federal +Republican and Baltimore Telegraph_ of September 11, 1818. + + "THE EXECUTION. + + "Agreeably to public notice, the awful sentence of death was yesterday + inflicted on J. Thompson Hare and John Alexander, in the presence of a + vast concourse assembled to witness the ignominious ceremony. Their + lives have expiated the crime for which they suffered. Justice has no + demands on them in the grave. + + "The gallows was sufficiently elevated above the walls of the prison + to afford a distinct view of the unfortunate men to spectators at the + distance of several hundred yards. + + "Hare has made a confession which is now hawking about town for sale. + In it he observes that, 'for the last fourteen years of my life I have + been a robber, and have robbed on a large scale, and been more + successful than any robber either in Europe or in this country that I + ever heard of.'" + +This lying dying boast of Hare fitly closes his evident failure as a +highwayman. + +An account of a negro highwayman is given in the _Federal Republican and +Baltimore Telegraph_ of September 11, 1818. + + +[Illustration: Relay House, Mattapan Tavern.] + + +In the early years of this century there existed in eastern Massachusetts +an organized band of thieves. It is said they were but one link in a chain +of evil night-workers which, with a home or shelter in every community, +reached from Cape Hatteras to Canada. This band was well organized, well +trained, and well housed; it had skilful means of concealing stolen goods +in innocent-faced cottages, in barns of honest thrift, and in wells and +haystacks in simple dooryards. One mild-manered and humble house had a +deep cellar which could be entered by an ingeniously hidden broad-side +door in a woodshed; into this cave a stolen horse and wagon or a pursued +load of cribbed goods might be driven, be shut in, and leave no outward +sign. Other houses had secret cellars, a deep and wide one beneath a +shallow, innocuous storage place for domestic potato and apple bins, and +honest cider barrels. In a house sheltering one of these subterranean +mysteries, a hard-working young woman was laboriously and discreetly +washing clothes when surprised by the sheriff and his aids, who wisely +invaded but fruitlessly searched the house. Nothing save the simplest +household belongings was found in that abode of domesticity; but in later +years, after the gang was scattered, a trap-door and ladder were found +leading to the sub-cellar, and with chagrin and mortification the sheriff +remembered that the woman's washing tubs stood unharmed upon the trap-door +during the fruitless search. + +An amusing battering ram was used by another woman of this gang on the +sheriff who came to her house to arrest one of those thieves. The outlaw +fled upstairs at the approach of the officer, but his retreat was noted, +and the man of law attempted to follow and seize him. The wife of the +thief--his congenial mate--opposed the passage of the sheriff, and when he +attempted to push her one side and to crowd past her, she suddenly seized +the crosspiece over the staircase, swung back by her hands and arms, +planted both feet against the officer's chest, and knocked him down with +such a sudden blow and consequent loss of wind, that the thief was far +away ere the sheriff could move or breathe. + +The leader of this band of thieves was an ingenious and delightful +scamp--one George White. He was hard to catch, and harder to keep than to +catch. Handcuffs were to him but pleasing toys. His wrists were large, his +hands small; and when the right moment came, the steel bracelets were +quickly empty. Locks and bolts were as easily thrust aside and left far, +far behind him as were the handcuffs. At last he was branded on his +forehead H. T., which stands for horse thief; a mean trick of a stupid +constable who had scant self-confidence or inventiveness. Curling +lovelocks quickly grow, however, and are ill in no one's sight; indeed, +they were in high fashion in similar circles in England at that time, when +various letters of the alphabet might be seen on the cheeks and brow of +many a gay traveller on the highway when the wind blew among the long +locks. + + +[Illustration: Wilde Tavern, 1770. Milton, Massachusetts.] + + +Term after term in jail and prison were decreed to George White when luck +turned against him. Yet still was he pardoned, as he deserved to be, for +his decorous deportment when behind bars; and he had a habit of being +taken out on a writ of _habeas corpus_ or to be transferred; but he never +seemed to reach his journey's end, and soon he would appear on the road, +stealing and roistering. The last word which came from him to New England +was a letter from the Ohio Penitentiary, saying he was dying, and asking +some of his kin to visit him. They did not go, he had fooled them too +often. Perhaps they feared they might put new life into him. But the one +time they were sure he lied he told the truth--and his varied career thus +ended. + +Flying once along a Massachusetts highway on a stolen horse, George White +was hotly pursued. At the first sharp turn in the road he dismounted in a +flash, cut the horse a lash with his whip, altered the look of his garment +with a turn of his hand, tore off his hat brim and thus had a jaunty cap, +and started boldly back on foot. Meeting the sheriff and his men all in a +heat, he fairly got under their horses' feet, and as they pulled up they +bawled out to know whether he had seen a man riding fast on horseback. +"Why, yes," he answered ingenuously, "I met a man riding as though the +devil were after him." They found the horse in half an hour, but they +never found George White. + +He once stole a tavern-keeper's horse, trimmed the mane, thinned out the +tail, and dyed the horse's white feet. He led the renovated animal in to +the bereft landlord, saying innocently that he had heard his horse was +stolen, and thought he might want to buy another. He actually sold this +horse back to his owner, but in a short time the horse's too evident +familiarity with his wonted stable and yard and the fast-fading dye +revealed the rascal's work. To another tavern-keeper he owed a bill for +board and lodging, which, with the incongruity of ideals and morals which +is often characteristic of great minds, he really wished to pay. The +landlord had a fine black horse which he had displayed to his boarder +with pride. This horse was kept temporarily in a distant pasture. White +stole the horse one night, rode off a few miles, and sold it and was paid +for it. He stole it again that night from the purchaser, sold it, and was +paid. He stole it a third time and returned it to the pasture from whence +it never had been missed. He then paid his board-bill as an honest man +should. + + +[Illustration: Ashburnham Thief Detecting Society.] + + +These gangs of horse thieves became such pests, such scourges in the +Northern states, that harassed citizens in many towns gathered into bands +and associations for mutual protection and systematic detection of the +miscreants. A handbill of the "Ashburnham Thief Detecting Society" had an +engraved heading which is reproduced on this page, which showed a mounted +thief riding across country with honest citizens in hot pursuit. The Thief +Detecting Society of Hingham had, in 1847, eighty-seven members. It used a +similar print for a heading for handbills, also one of a boy stealing +apples--as a severe lesson to youth. + +In the year 1805 an abrupt and short but fierce attempt was made at +highway robbery and burglary in Albany. The story as told in a chap-book +is so simple, so antique, so soberly comic, that it might be three +centuries old instead of scarce one. The illustrations, though of the date +1836, are of the standard of art of the seventeenth century. + +It seems a piece of modern Philistinism to spoil the story--as I must--by +condensation. The title of the book is _The Robber, or Pye and The +Highwayman_, and the irony of giving Pye place before the highwayman or +any place at all will be apparent by the story. In this tale two sturdy +Albany dames shine as models of courage and fearlessness by the side of +the terror-stricken burghers of the entire town, whose reputation to a man +was only saved from the branding of utter and universal cowardice by the +appearance and manly carriage and triumph at the end of the night's fray +of old Winne the pennypost. + +There put up that year in December at an Albany tavern a young man who +gave his name as Johnson; he was aristocratic in bearing and dress, dark +of complexion, sombre of aspect, but courteous and pleasant, "with a +daring but cultivated eye." When questioned of himself and his business, +however, Johnson was silent and taciturn. His magnificent horse and pair +of splendid pistols were noted by the solid Dutch burghers and sharp +Yankee traders who smoked and drank beer within the tavern walls; and one +wintry afternoon the stranger was seen carefully cleaning the pair of +pistols. + +On that bitter night, a man--none other than our black-browed +highwayman--rode clattering up to the toll-gate two miles below the town, +and called out to open the gate; when the wife of the toll-keeper appeared +to do that duty he jumped from his horse, rushed in toward the house, +demanding in a terrible voice all the money in the toll till and chest. +The woman was terrified at this demand, yet not so scared but she could at +his first approach throw the fat bag with all the accumulation of toll +money under the porch, and do it unseen by the highwayman; and she at once +asserted tearfully, with the alacritous mendacity born of sharp terror +(the account says with great earnestness and womanish simplicity), that +her husband had gone to the agent in town with all the month's +collections, leaving her but a few shillings for change, which she +displayed in the gate-drawer for proof. Disgusted but credulous, the +villain rode off with loud oaths, baffled in the simplest fashion by Dame +Trusty No. 1. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Williams Tavern.] + + +He then went to the tavern of John Pye, the wealthy landlord, on the West +Troy road. He found the house locked peacefully for the night, but forced +a window and entered. In the barroom and kitchen, the fire was carefully +covered to keep till morning. Lighting his dark lantern with the coals, he +then poured water on both fires and extinguished them, and I have puzzled +long in my mind wondering why he dallied, risking detection by doing this. +He then went to the room where Pye and his wife were peacefully reposing, +and rudely awakened them. Mrs. Pye, promptly assuming the role she +carried throughout, jumped from her bed and asked him what he wished. He +answered, the chap-book says, "silently," "I deal with your husband, +Madam, not with you"--and a more fatuous mistake never issued from lips of +highwayman. To Pye he then said, "Your money or your life." Pye, heavy +with sleep--and natural stupidity--seemed to fancy some trick was being +played on him in mischief, and to the highwayman's demand for money +answered, half alarmed, half peevish, "It's damned little money you'll get +out of me, my lad, as the thing is but indifferently plenty with me." But +he was roused at last by the fierceness of threats and gestures, and +whimpered that his money was below; and the two proceeded downstairs to +the taproom by the light of the robber's lantern. The moment they left the +room, Mrs. Pye ran softly to a bedroom where slept two sojourners at the +inn, wakened them with hurried words of the robber's visit and her beloved +Pye's danger, and made appeals for help; and as an emphatic wakener +pulled them out of bed upon the floor. Then she ran swiftly back to bed. + +In the meantime the terrified Pye recalled that his wife had the keys of +the taproom till which held his money, and he and the highwayman returned +to her bedroom and demanded them from her. "I'll give the keys to thee nor +no man else," she stoutly answered. "Thee must, I tell thee," whined Pye, +"or worse may happen." "Pye, I'll not give up my keys," still she cried, +and seized a loaded gun by the bedside; for fierce answer the highwayman +fired his pistol at Pye. With lamentable outcries Pye called out he was a +dead man, and his arm fell to his side. His wife thrust the gun in his +hands, shouting, "Fire, Pye, fire! he's feeling for another pistol." "I +cannot," he quavered out, "I cannot hold the gun." She pushed it into his +hands, held up his arm, aimed for him, and between them they pulled the +trigger. In a second all was utter darkness and stillness: they had hit +the highwayman. He pitched forward, fell on his lantern, put it out, and +lay as one dead. Here was a situation for a good, thrifty, staid Albany +vrouw, a dying husband on one side, a dead highwayman on the other, all in +utter darkness. She ran for coals to the barroom and kitchen fires. Both +were wet and black. She had no tinder box, coals must be brought from a +neighbor's. She suddenly bethought of an unusual fire that had been +lighted in the parlor the previous evening for customers, where still +might be a live coal. This was her good fortune, and with lighted candle +she proceeded to the scene of attack. Pye lay in a swoon on the bed, but +by this time the highwayman had vanished; and safe and untouched under the +bed were five hundred dollars in gold and five hundred more in bills, +which, it is plain, Pye himself had wholly forgotten in his fright. + +In the meantime where were the two "knights of the bedchamber," as the +chap-book calls them? Far more silently than the robber they feared had +they slid downstairs, and away from the tavern into hiding, until the +highwayman rode past them. + +They then tracked him by trails of blood, and soon saw him dismounted and +rolling in the snow as if to quench the flow of blood. Though they knew he +was terribly wounded and they were two to one, they stole past him at a +safe distance in silence to the protection of the town, where they raised +the cry of "A robber! Watch! Murder! Help! A band of highwaymen! Pye is +dead!" Oh, how bravely they bawled and shouted! and soon a hue and cry was +started from end to end of Albany town. + +With an extraordinary lack of shrewdness which seemed to characterize the +whole of this episode of violence, and which proved Johnson no trained +"swift-nick," as Charles II. called highwaymen, instead of making off to +some of the smaller towns or into the country, he rode back to Albany; and +soon the night-capped heads thrust from the little Dutch windows, and +terrified men leaning out over the Dutch doors, and the few amazed groups +in the streets saw a fleet horseman, hatless, with bloody handkerchief +bound around his head, come galloping and thundering through Albany, down +one street, then back again to the river. When he reached the quay, the +horse fearlessly sprang without a moment's trembling a terrible leap, +eight feet perpendicular, twenty feet lateral, out on the ice. All +screamed out that horse and rider would go through the ice and perish. But +the ice was strong, and soon horse and rider were out of sight; but +mounted men were now following the distant sound of hoofs, and when the +outlaw reached what he thought was the opposite shore, but what was really +a marshy island, one bold pursuer rode up after him. The robber turned, +fired at him at random, and the Albany brave fled in dismay back to his +discreet neighbors. + +But honor and courage was now appearing across the ice in the figure of +Captain Winne, the pennypost, who was heard to mutter excitedly in his +semi-Dutch dialect: "Mine Cott! vat leeps das horse has mate! vull dwenty +feet! Dunder and bliksem! he's der tuyfel for rooning!" Winne was an old +Indian fighter, and soon he boldly grappled the highwayman, who drew a +dagger on him. Winne knocked it from his hand. The highwayman grappled +with him, wrenched away his club, and hit the pennypost a blow on his +mouth which loosened all his front teeth (which, the chap-book says, +"Winne afterwards took out at his leisure"). Winne then dallied no longer; +he pulled down the handkerchief from the robber's forehead, twisted it +around his neck, and choked him. In the morning twilight the great band of +cautious Albanians gravely advanced, bound the highwayman securely, and +carried him in triumph back to jail. He was placed in heavy irons, when he +said, "Iron me as you will, you can hold me but a short time." All thought +he meant to attempt an escape, but he spoke with fuller meaning; he felt +himself mortally wounded. They put an iron belt around his waist and +fastened it by a heavy chain to a staple in the floor. They placed great +rings around his ankles, chained them to the floor, and then chained +ankle-bands and belt together. They would have put an iron collar and +chain on him also, but he said, "Gentlemen! have some mercy!" and a +horrible wound at the base of the brain made them desist. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Williams Tavern.] + + +Poor Mrs. Pye visited him, with much distress of spirit, and sympathized +with him and grieved over him as he lay face downward on the stone floor. +And it arouses a sense of amused indignation to know that he asked +earnestly for Pye and expressed deep regret at having injured him--he +wasn't badly hurt, anyway. Our heroine, Dame Pye, certainly deserved a +better and braver husband, and it is pleasant to know that she outlived +Pye and found, if not a more courageous mate, certainly a very fine young +one--her bar-keeper, forty years younger than herself. + +The highwayman escaped the tree, for he died in jail. There is reason to +believe he was a Southerner of good birth. The horse was so widely +described and exploited that his story reached a Virginia gentleman, his +real owner, from whom he had been stolen. The sagacious animal had been +trained to follow a peculiar whistle, and to jump at anything. The +gentleman proved his ownership and took the splendid animal-hero home. + +In the year 1821 a highwayman was executed in Massachusetts, Mike Martin, +or Captain Lightfoot, who really was a very satisfactory outlaw, a real +hightoby-crack, though he was only an imported one, not a native +production. His life, as given by himself, is most entertaining. He had to +his father a Kilkenny Irishman, who apprenticed the boy early in life to +his uncle, a brewer. The brewer promptly beat him, he ran home, and got a +bigger beating. In truth, he was a most beatable brat. When sixteen years +old he joined the Ribbonmen, a political organization that committed many +petty crimes and misdemeanors, besides regulating landlords. When his +father found out the kind of company kept by the young rascal, he beat him +again. Mike promptly took as a salve five guineas from his father's trunk, +opening it with a master-key which had been kindly made for him by a +Ribbonman, and which he was enjoined to keep constantly with him as a +conveniency. He says, "I had always stolen in a small way." With his five +guineas he ran away to Dublin, and pretended reformation and remorse so +successfully to a cousin that the latter employed him in a distillery. In +return he stole petty amounts continually from his cousin's money chest, +by help of his master-key. Soon he was a settled outcast, and at this +juncture met at an inn a fine, handsome clergyman, about forty years of +age, over six feet tall, dark-eyed, of great muscle and strength; his name +was John Doherty. In spite of his black clerical dress he seemed somewhat +mysterious in character, and after pumping Martin he disclosed in turn +that he was the famous highwayman, Captain Thunderbolt. + +He at once claimed Martin as one of the real sort, and they were talking +over a union of forces and schemes when a party of dragoons came to the +inn in pursuit of Thunderbolt. He escaped through a window, but in a +week's time came back dressed as a Quaker and joined his companion, who at +the age of twenty-one thus blossomed out as a real knight of the road, as +Captain Lightfoot, with a pair of fine pistols and a splendid horse, "Down +the Banks," to keep company with Thunderbolt's "Beefsteak." Thus equipped, +these two gentlemen rode as gentlemen should, to the hunt. There, alone, +to prove what he could do, Mike Martin robbed four huntsmen, and to his +pride was mistaken by them for Thunderbolt himself. But the huntsmen soon +had their turn; sheriffs and soldiers drove the two knights to the woods; +and after weeks of uncomfortable hiding Mike Martin was properly penitent +and longed for an honest man's seat in a tavern taproom. There is no +retreat, however, in this career; the pair of robbers next entered a +house, called all the people together, and robbed the entire trembling +lot. Through Scotland and Ireland they rode till the highways got too hot +for them, advertisements were everywhere, a hue and cry was out, and +Thunderbolt fled to America. + +Mike Martin, terrified at the multiplying advertisements and rewards, +disguised himself, and sailed for New York. Quarrels and mutiny on +shipboard brought him ashore at Salem, where he worked for a time for Mr. +Derby. He soon received a sum of money from his father's estate and set up +as a brewer. But Salem Yankees were too sharp for the honest highwayman, +and he lost it all and had to take again to the road. From Portsmouth to +Canada,--from pedlers, from gentlemen,--on horseback, in chaises,--he ran +his rig; finally, in spite of advertisements in newspapers and printed +reports and handbills at every country inn, he worked his way back to New +Hampshire; and on a moonlight night he found himself horseless in the +bushes. Two men rode up, and one held back as Mike Martin stepped forth. +"Who's that?" said the foremost man. "I'm the bold Doherty from Scotland," +said he, taking Thunderbolt's name and not in vain. "And what are you +after?" said the shaking traveller. "Stop and I'll show you." Mike then +presented his pistol and demanded of the gentleman his money or his life. +Promptly money and papers were turned over. "Stand back by the fence," +said the highwayman. "Here, Jack, look after this fellow," he swaggered to +make the traveller think he had an accomplice; and he mounted the fine +horse and rode off. He robbed some one in some way every few miles on the +road till he was back in Salem. There he promptly acquiesced to the +decorous customs of the New England town, and went to a lecture; on his +way home from his intellectual refreshment, he asked the time of a +well-dressed man. "Can't you hear the clock strike?" was the surly answer. +"I'll hear your watch strike or strike your head," was the surprising +reply. Out came watch and money with the cowardly alacrity ever displayed +at his demands. From thence to the Sun Tavern in Boston, where he learned +of a grand party at Governor Brooks's at Medford. He said in his +confession, "I thought there might be some fat ones there and decided to +be of the company." After an evening of astonishing bravado and +recklessness, displaying himself at taverns and on the road, he held up +Major Bray and his wife on the Medford turnpike, near the Ten Mile Farm +which once belonged to Governor Winthrop. The gentlefolk were in "a +genteel horse and chaise." Madam Bray began to try to conceal her +watch-chain, but Captain Lightfoot politely told her he never robbed +ladies. Major Bray turned over his watch and pocketbook, but begged to +keep his papers. Martin said later, "The circumstances as given by Major +Bray at the trial were correct, only he forgot to state that he was much +frightened and trembled like a leaf." After stopping other chaises, he +took the surprisingly foolhardy step of going to the tavern at Medford, +where he found already much excitement about the robbery of Major Bray, +and met many suspicious glances. He rode off, and soon a crowd was after +him crying, "Stop Thief." + + +[Illustration: Poore Tavern and Sign-board.] + + +In his mad flight his stirrup broke, he fell from his horse and dislocated +his shoulder; thence through fields and marshes on foot till he dropped +senseless from pain and fatigue. When he recovered, he tied his suspenders +to a tree at one end and the other end to his wrist and pulled the +shoulder into place. Then by day and night through farms and woods to +Holliston. In the taproom of the tavern he called for brandy, but he saw +such a good description of himself with a reward for his capture, while he +was drinking off his glass, it took away his appetite for the dinner he +had ordered. + +He was then tired of foot travel, and stole a horse and rode to +Springfield. Here he put up at a tavern, where he slept so sound that he +was only awakened by landlord, sheriff, and a score of helpers who had +traced the horse to Springfield. Major Bray's robbery was unknown there, +but he was tried for it, however, when it was found out, on October 21, +and convicted and sentenced to death. He cheerfully announced that he +should escape if he could, but he was put in heavy irons. When in jail at +Lechmere Point he struck the turnkey, Mr. Coolidge, on the head with his +severed chain. He pushed past the stunned keeper, thrust open the door, +and ran for his life. He was captured in a cornfield and Coolidge was the +man who grabbed him. It was found that he had filed through the chain with +a case-knife, filled the cut with a paste of tallow and coal-dust, and +though the link had been frequently examined the cut had never been noted. +He declared he would have escaped, only the heavy chain and weight which +he had worn had made him lose the full use of his legs, and he had to run +with one end of the chain and a seventeen-pound weight in his hand. + + +[Illustration: Monroe Tavern, Lexington, Massachusetts.] + + +He was executed in December and behaved with great propriety and +sobriety. He showed neither cant, levity, nor bravado. He prayed silently +just before his death, professed penitence, and went to the gallows with +composure. He arranged his dress and hair carefully before a glass, showed +a kind disposition to all, and finally gave the signal himself for the +drop. A tall and handsome scamp, with piercing blue eyes and fine +complexion, his marked intelligence and sweetness of expression made him +most attractive. His frame was perfect in symmetry, and he was wonderful +in his strength and endurance--truly an ideal highwayman; it must have +been a pleasure to meet him. + +Thus it is very evident that neither highway robbery nor highwaymen +thrived in America. They mended their ways very promptly--and apparently +they wanted to. A very striking example of this is in the American career +of Captain Thunderbolt, the friend and teacher of Mike Martin. When he set +foot on American soil, he tamely abandoned all his old picturesque wicked +ways. He settled first in Dummerston, Vermont, where he taught school and +passed his leisure hours in seclusion and study. He then set up as a +physician, in Newfane, Vermont, calling himself Dr. Wilson, and he moved +from thence to Brattleboro, where his house stood on the present site of +the railroad station. He married the daughter of a prominent Brattleboro +farmer, but was too stern and reserved to prove a good American husband. +He lived to be about sixty-five years old, and had a good and lucrative +professional practice. + +I know two authentic cases of highway robbery of stage-coaches in New +England; one was from the driver, of a large sum of money which had been +entrusted to him. It was his wife who stole it. She was not prosecuted, +for she returned the money, and it was believed she would not have taken +it from any one else. The other theft was that of a bonnet. Just as a +stage was to start off from a tavern door, a woman jumped on the step, +seized the bonnet of a woman passenger, tore it from her head, and made +off with it before the outraged traveller's shrieks could reach the driver +and stop the coach; and--as the chronicler solemnly recounted to me--the +robber was never heard of more. These two highwaywomen have the honors of +the road. + +It may be deemed somewhat grandiloquent to term to-day this theft of a +bonnet "highway robbery"; but I can assure you a fine bonnet was a most +respected belonging in olden times, and if of real Dunstable or fine +Leghorn straw and trimmed with real ostrich plumes it might be also a +costly belonging, and to steal it was no light matter--indeed it was a +hanging matter. For in Boston, when John Hancock was governor, a woman was +hanged for snatching a bonnet from another's head and running off with +it. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +TAVERN GHOSTS + + +England was ever the birthplace and abiding-place of ghosts. Thoroughly +respectable most of these old residents were, their manifestations being +stereotyped with all the conventionalities of the spirit world. When the +colonists came to the new world the friendly and familiar spectres did not +desert their old companions, but emigrated also, and "sett down satysfyed" +in enlarged log cabins, and houses built of American pine, just as the +planters did; and in these humbler domiciles both classes of inhabitants +were soon as much at home as they had been in oaken manor houses and stone +castles in the "ould countrie." + +In New England the tavern was often the chosen place of abode and of +visitation of spirits; like other travellers on life's weary round, these +travellers on the round of the dead found their warmest welcome at an inn. +Naturally new conditions developed new phenomena; the spirits of unhappy +peasants, of cruel barons, of hated heirs at law, of lovelorn ladies, +found novel companions, among whom the manitous and wraiths of the red men +cut the strangest figure. The ghosts of pirates, too, were prime +favorites in America, especially in seaboard towns, but were never such +frequent visitors, nor on the whole such picturesque visitors, as were the +spirits of Indians:-- + + "The ghosts that come to haunt us + From the kingdom of Ponemah, + From the land of the Hereafter." + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Dewey Tavern.] + + +I have known a good many tavern ghosts of Indians--though their deeds as +recounted are often far from being original or aboriginal. Reuben Jencks +owned a tavern that had a very good Indian ghost. This ghost was not one +of the inconsiderate kind that comes when you are awake, and half scares +you to death; this noble red man stole in silently by night, so silently +that the sleeper never awakened, and hence was never frightened, for +nothing seems overstrange, uncanny, or impossible in a dream. Even when +the Indian brandished his tomahawk and seized the visited one by the hair +of the head, it never seemed to be anything more than might be expected, +nor did he ever appear overfierce in his threats and gestures. +Nevertheless in course of time his appearances gave a name to the +apartment he visited; it came to be known as the Indian Chamber. And +travelling chapmen, pedlers, or traders who had been over the route +frequently, and had heard the tale at every trip, sometimes objected to +sleeping in the room--not that they were afraid--but it was somewhat of a +nuisance. + +It was not known that any Indian ever had received aught of injury at the +hands of any at the Black Horse Tavern, save the derivative injury from +too frequent and liberal draughts of hard cider, which was freely dealt +out to every sorry brave who wandered there. There were some simpletons +who said that the Indian's visits were to resent the injury done to +another old inn, a rival down the road, named The Pine Tree, but which +bore the figure of an Indian on its sign-board, and was oftener known as +The Indian Tavern. This was nonsense. The Pine Tree had no visitors +because it did not deserve them, had a vile table and a worse stable, +while the Black Horse Tavern gave the best of the earth to its guests. + +Reuben Jencks had not been born in this tavern. He inherited it from an +uncle, and he was already married and had a family of small children when +the tavern came to him. Another baby was born soon after, and as the +Indian Chamber was the largest in the house, Mrs. Jencks quietly disposed +of the objections of timid and superstitious chapmen and pedlers by taking +the room for her own sleeping apartment. + +It would seem to be a brave warrior, albeit a savage and a ghost, who +would enter a room as densely populated as that of Mr. and Mrs. Jencks. +There was for the repose of landlord and landlady a vast four-post +bedstead with curtains, valance, and tester of white dimity; and under +this high bed was thrust by day a low trundle bed. At night it was drawn +out, and upon it slept the three little daughters of the Jencks family. +Upon an old high-backed settle set on rockers slept Reuben Jencks, Jr., +the deposed king of the family. Adjustable bars slipped in the front of +this settle made it a safe crib. This stood on one side of the fireplace, +and the new baby reposed, when he slept at all, in a deeply hooded +mahogany cradle. There was a great fire ever and cheerfully burning in the +fireplace--and yet to this chamber of infantile innocence and comfort came +the saturnine form of the Indian ghost. + + +[Illustration: Cutter's Tavern Sign-board.] + + +He was, in one sense, a thoroughly satisfactory apparition, being suitably +clad in full trappings of war, buckskin and turkey feathers, bear's teeth +and paint; he was none of those miserable half-breed travesties of Indians +who sometimes still sneaked round to the tavern kitchen, clad in vile +clothes of civilization, so greasy and worn and dirty that a blanket +would have been as stately in comparison as a Roman toga; Indians devoid +of bravery, dignity, and even of cunning, whose laziness, high +cheek-bones, and hair coarse as a horse's tail, and their unvarying love +of rum, were the only proofs of Indian blood; whose skin, even, had turned +from copper tawny to dingy yellow. + +To Mrs. Jencks, reposing in state among her abundant goose feathers on the +high bedstead, came one night the spectre in her dreams, pulled off her +nightcap, seized her by her long hair, dragged her downstairs and out of +doors, pointed fiercely to the roots of the great cedar at the gate, +muttering all the while in broken English of avenging an insult to his +race. As Mrs. Jencks awoke wholly uninjured, she merely laughed at her +vision, saying that all the talk she had heard had made her dream it. But +when she had dreamt it three times, three nights running, and the ghost +kept speaking of an act of insult to him, that it must be avenged, +removed, etc., and kept ever pointing to the base of the cedar tree, Ben +Jencks insisted on digging for what he felt sure was hidden treasure. He +and his menials dug deep and dug wide, and nearly killed the splendid old +cedar, but found nothing. The next time the ghost appeared he dragged the +astral body of Mrs. Jencks down to the other cedar tree on the right-hand +side of the gateway. Ben Jencks dug again with the same result. Neither he +nor the ghost was daunted, and a fine apple tree in the garden next the +orchard was the next victim. It was a Sapson apple tree, the variety +which all the children loved, and it ceased bearing for several years. As +it wilted and pined after the rough spading at its roots, Mrs. Jencks +doggedly vowed never to repeat any of the ghost's lies again. + + +[Illustration: Clock with Painting of Pahquoique House.] + + +We must not be too contemptuous of this unprincipled Indian spirit. He +simply belonged to a class of ghosts of whom Andrew Lang says +complainingly that they have a passion for pointing out places and saying +treasures or skeletons are buried within; whereas it always proves that +nothing of the sort is ever found. There are liars among the living as +well as of the dead, and Mrs. Jencks's Indian never said it was a +treasure--he only hinted darkly at the buried thing being associated with +some degradation or insult to the Indian race. The treasure was all in Ben +Jencks's brain--and the brains of his friends. Mrs. Jencks's silence to +her husband did not prevent her however from having several treasure-hunts +alone by herself, after the Indian's renewed visits and pointing finger, +for he changed nothing in his programme save the spot he indicated. She +spent an entire day pulling and poking among the attic rafters. She +rolled out several empty cider barrels from a distant cellar corner, and +even dug a hole there secretly. Her husband at last discovered her +mysteriously poking a hole down a disused well, and promptly had the well +cleaned out; but of course nothing was found save the usual well contents, +and thus the years rolled on. + +One morning Lucy Jencks whimpered that the Indian had pulled her out of +bed in the night and pointed out to her where to hunt. Lucy was nearly +eleven years old; a clever, sharp, active little Yankee, who helped to +shell peas and string beans and scour pewter, and who could knit famously +and spin pretty well. This brought her naturally in the company of her +elders, and she proved the influence of the ghost talk she had heard by +repeating the Indian's words that "the derision of his ancient race, the +degradation of his ancient customs, must be avenged." Derision and +degradation are too big words for a little girl to use untutored, or for +an Indian ghost either; and in truth they were not the precise words he +had spoken at first. But Parson Pillsbury had been present at the digging +under the Sapson apple tree, a piously sceptical but secretly interested +spectator, and he had thus explained the somewhat broken "Injun-talk" +which Mrs. Jencks reported. It proves the tractability and intelligence of +this ghost of a heathen that he ever after used the words of the Puritan +minister. + +The ghost pointed out to Lucy Jencks a very inaccessible spot to be +searched. It was the farther end of a loft over a shed, and had to be +entered by a short ladder from a leanto. This loft was packed solidly +with the accumulated debris of three-quarters of a century, portions of +farm tools, poor old furniture, boxes, barrels, every old stuff and piece +that was too mean even for the main attic, in which were poor enough +relics. It had never been searched or sorted out since Ben Jencks came to +the tavern, and I doubt whether Mrs. Jencks would have listened to a +ransacking then but for one circumstance, the Jencks family were going to +leave the Black House Tavern--and they really ought to know exactly what +was in it ere they sold it with its contents. They had not been driven +from the family home by this Indian spirit of dreams, but by a more +powerful spirit--that of emigration. Neighbors and friends in Rutland and +Worcester were going to Ohio--that strange new territory, and they would +go too. A single dead Indian, and such a liar, too, seemed of but little +account when they thought of the infinite bands of very live Indians in +their chosen home. + + +[Illustration: Wright Tavern, Concord, Massachusetts.] + + +Mrs. Jencks and Lucy climbed the ladder to the loft, opened the single +shutter, and let in a narrow dancing ray of dusty sunlight on the crowded +desolation within. Lucy pointed between bars and barrels and bags, with +slender white finger, at a large and remote box which a slender, strong, +copper-colored hand had pointed out to her in her dreams. Her mother +sternly sent her below to do her stent at quilt-piecing, and she tearfully +and unwillingly descended. It was nearly an hour ere the strong arms of +Mrs. Jencks had dislodged and repacked the unutterable chaos to the extent +of reaching the box. Clouds of dust dimmed the air. She untied and +removed a rotten rope that bound the box, which even in the dim litter +looked like the upper half of a coffin. Within lay something swathed in +linen bands and strips of old flannel--newspapers were then too precious +for wrappings. She struck it, and there came a faint rattle of metal. The +thought came to her of the description of a mummy which she had read a few +nights before in the almanac. She paused; then twisted in and among the +boxes to the head of the ladder. She could hear the sound of Perseverance +singing a hymn. Perseverance Abbott was the "help," the sister of a farmer +neighbor, and she was baking "rye and Injun" bread for the teamsters who +would stop there at nightfall. Mrs. Jencks called down, "Persy, come here +a minute!" "I'll tell her to come," piped up the shrill voice of Lucy, who +was hovering at the base of the ladder and evidently meant to be "in at +the death." Perseverance appeared, floury and serene, at the foot of the +ladder. "I'll come," she said, in answer to Mrs. Jencks's appeal for +assistance, "because I know you're scairt, and I ain't a-goin' to see Ben +Jencks a-huntin for them Indian bones again. I've been dyin', anyway, to +clear this out ever since I come here, an' this'll be the beginnin'." +"Persy," said Mrs. Jencks, hesitatingly, "it seems to be something dead." +"Dead!" answered her hand-maid, "I'll bet it's dead after layin' here +forty, perhaps a hundred year!" An atmosphere of good sense and +fearlessness seemed to halo her about; still both women unwrapped the +heavy thing, the mummy, with care. A bare shining scalp came first to +view. "It's a wig-block," shouted Perseverance in a moment, "yes, and +here's curling irons and wire wig-springs." + +It was "grandpa's wig-block," so Reuben Jencks said, when he saw it later; +his grandfather had added to his duties of tavern-keeper, roadmaster, +selectman, and deacon, that of wig-maker. And in that day, when all men of +any station wore handsome flowing wigs, and all, even poor men, wore wigs +of some kind, it was a calling of importance. Moreover, an Indian with a +tomahawk cut but a sorry figure when he tried to scalp a man who wore a +wig; it was a deriding insult to the warlike customs of the whole Indian +race. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of Moses Hill's Inn.] + + +There is a fine old brick tavern still standing in a New England seaboard +town, and now doing service as a rather disreputable road house. It is a +building rigidly square, set due north, south, east, and west, with four +long, narrow doors opening over broad door-stones to the four ends of the +earth. A long tail of summer and winter kitchens, a wash-room, brew-house, +smoke-house, wood-rooms, sheds, barns, piggeries, pigeon-houses, +hen-houses, once stretched a hundred feet or more adown the road, part of +which is now torn down. Each joint of the tail helped loyally in olden +times to furnish good cheer to the traveller. The great square rooms of +the main house are amply furnished; one was a taproom, and in each +second-story room still are two double beds, save in the corner room next +the kitchen tail of the house, where stands nailed firmly to the floor of +the room a somewhat battered oaken table. A little open staircase in the +corner of this room leads down to the working end of the house, and was +used in olden days to carry supplies to the upper table from the lower +kitchen. + +It has been many a year since good cheer was spread on that broad oaken +board, though at one time it was the favorite dining place of a choice +brotherhood of old salts, called the Mariners' Club, who gathered there +when on shore to tell tales of wild privateering, and of sharp foreign +trade, and to plan new and profitable ventures. Many of these Mariners' +Clubs and Marine Societies existed in seaport towns at that golden time in +New England's marine commercial history. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board of John Nash's Tavern.] + + +This room was the scene about seventy-five years ago of a somewhat unusual +expression of feminine revolt--that is, both the expression and the revolt +were unusual. One of the most constant frequenters of the tavern, the +heaviest eater and deepest drinker, the greatest money-spender at these +Mariners' dinners, was one Captain Sam Blood, who ran a large coasting +brig, which made but short trips to Atlantic seaports. Thus he was ever +on hand for tavern fun. He had a large and rather helpless family which he +kept somewhat in retreat on a gloomy farm two miles inland; his mother old +and feeble, yet ever hard-working; a large number of untidy children, and, +worst of all, a sickly wife, a tall, gaunt woman who whined, and whined, +and ever whined from her patch-covered couch, over the frequent desertions +of her spouse to the tavern-table, and his wilful waste of money, while +she could never leave the house. One night a specially good dinner was set +in the Mariners' room, roast and boiled meats, pies and puddings, a grand +array of full pitchers, decanters, and bottles; the assembled group of old +salts were about to ascend from the taproom to seat themselves comfortably +at the round table for solid work, when a terrible crash and scream were +heard, each seeming louder than the other, and before the startled eyes of +the landlord and his guests, as they rushed up and into the room, there +were all the steaming dishes, all the streaming bottles, with table-cloth +and plates in a disorderly hopeless wreck on the floor. "Who could have +done it?" "There he goes," shouted one captain, as he ran to the window; +and, surely enough, a slender man in nautical garb was seen striking out +from under the sheltering walls of the ell-kitchens and sheds, and running +desperately across the snowy fields. Full chase was given and the marauder +finally captured; he was swung roughly around with oaths and blows, when +sudden silence fell on all. It was Sam Blood's wife in Sam Blood's togs. +"I'll settle for this dinner," said Sam Blood, blackly. + +On his next voyage Mrs. Blood sailed with the captain. With the usual +ethical inconsistencies which prevail in small communities, Mrs. Sam Blood +the despoiler attracted more attention and sympathy than Mrs. Sam Blood +the poor, hard-working, sickly wife; it was the universal talk and +decision of all the women in town that the captain's wife needed a change +of scene; and she had to take it in that ironical form decreed to the +wives of old-time ship-owners, in a voyage of uncertain length and certain +discomfort on a sailing vessel, with no woman companion and the doubtful +welcome of the male members of the crew. Off she went to Savannah. At that +port she was no better, cried all the time (the first mate wrote home), +and seemed little like the woman of spirit who had wrecked the Mariners' +dinner. The captain decided to go with a cargo to South America to see how +the tropics would serve the ailing woman. His old home crew shipped back +to Boston, not caring for the trip far south, and a crew of creoles and +negroes was taken on the supplemental trip. + +When Captain Blood and his schooner at last came into port at home, he +landed with sombre countenance, a mourning widower, and soon was properly +clad in trappings of woe. Mrs. Sam Blood was no more. Her husband stated +briefly that she had died and was buried at sea off the island of Jamaica. +A discreet and decent term of mourning passed, and Mrs. Blood, as is the +way of the living--and of the dead--was quite forgotten. Once more the +Mariners' Club was to have a dinner, and once more the table in the +Mariners' room was spread with good cheer and ample drink. Captain Blood, +in somewhat mitigated bereavement, was among the thronging guests who +lingered over a final stomach-warmer at the bar. The landlord ran out of +the room and roared down the main stairs that dinner was ready, and even +as he spoke, crash! smash! came a din from the Mariners' room, and there +was all the dinner and all the broken bottles with the table-cloth and the +upset table on the floor. It was a very unpleasant reminder to Sam Blood +of a very mortifying event, and his friends sympathized with him in +silence. This time no miscreant could be found in house or on farm, but +the landlord suspected a discharged and ugly servant, who might have run +down the little corner staircase, as Mrs. Blood had before him. + +The ruined dinner was replaced by another a week later. The guests were +gathered, the landlord was bearing a last roast pig aloft, when smash! +crash! came again from the Mariners' room. Every one in the house rushed +up in tremendous excitement: the table-cloth was off, table upset, bottles +smashed. An ominous silence and a sense of the uncanny fell on all in the +room; some glanced askance at Sam Blood. More than one sharp-eyed old salt +noted that the great, hairy, tattooed hands of the widower shook +amazingly, though his face was the calmest of all the bronzed, +weather-beaten figure-heads staring around. + +_There has never been a meal served from that table since_, though many a +meal has been spread on it. The landlord, a stubborn man of no nonsense +and no whims, grimly nailed the legs of the table to the floor, and +proceeded to set the succeeding dinner on the bare boards. It mattered +not, cloth or no cloth, every dinner small or great was always wrecked. +Watchers were set, enjoined not to take their eyes from the table, nor +themselves from the room. Something always happened, an alarm of fire, a +sudden call for help, an apparent summons from the landlord--this but for +a single moment, but in that moment smash! crash! went the dinner. + +Captain Blood lived to a rather lonely and unpopular old age, for he was +held responsible for the decay and dissolution of the Mariners' Club; and +unjustly enough, for Neptune knows it was no wish of his. When occasional +dinners and suppers were given by nautical men in wholly mundane rooms in +other taverns, with no spiritual accompaniments,--that is, in the form of +ghosts,--the captain was left out. Men did not hanker for the +companionship of a man who left port with a wife and came home with a +ghost. He has been dead for decades, and is anchored in the old Hill +graveyard, where he sleeps the quiet sleep of the righteous; and the name +and virtues of Elvira, his beloved wife, are amply recorded on his +tombstone. But her ghost still walks, or at any rate still wrecks. I don't +like ghosts, but I really should like to meet this lively and persistent +Yankee wraith, clad in the meek and meagre drooping feminine attire which +was the mode in the early part of this century, or perhaps tentatively +mannish in peajacket and oilskins as in her day of riot of old. I really +wish I could see the spry and spiteful spirit of Mrs. Sam Blood, with her +expression of rampant victory as she twitches the table-cloth off, and +wrecks the bottles, and says in triumphal finality, "I'll settle for this +dinner"; thus gaining what is ever dear to a woman, even to the ghost of a +woman--the last word. + + +[Illustration: Montague City Tavern.] + + +Late on a November night in the early part of this century the landlord +and half a dozen teamsters sat drinking deep in the taproom of the Buxton +Inn. These rough travellers had driven into the yard during the afternoon +with their produce-laden wagons; for a heavy snow was falling, and it was +impossible wheeling, doubtful even whether they could leave the inn in +forty-eight hours--perhaps not for a week. Their board would not prove +very costly, for they carried their own horse-provender, and much of their +own food. Some paid for a bed, others slept free of charge round the fire; +but all spent money for drink. It was a fierce storm and a great fall of +snow for the month of the year--though November is none too mild any year +in New England. Though this snow was too early by half to be seasonable, +yet each teamster was roughly merry at the others' expense that he had not +"come down" on runners. + +With dull days of inaction before them there was no need for early hours +of sleep, so all talked loud and long and drank boisterously, when +suddenly a series of heavy knocks was heard at the front door of the inn. +Bang! bang! angrily pounded the iron knocker, and the landlord went slowly +into the little front entry, fumbled heavily at the bolt, and at last +threw open the door to a fine young spark who blustered in with a great +bank of snow which fell in at his feet, and who was covered with rolls and +drifts of snow, which he shook off debonairly on all around him, +displaying at last a handsome suit of garments, gold-laced, and very fine +to those country bumpkins, but which a "cit" would have noted were +somewhat antiquated of cut and fashion. + +He at once indicated and proved his claim to being a gentleman by swearing +roundly at the landlord, declaring that his horses and servant were housed +ere he was, that they had driven round and found shelter in the barn +before he could get into the front door. He could drink like a gentleman, +too, this fine young fellow, and he entered at once into the drinking and +singing and story-telling and laughing with as much zest as if he had been +only a poor common country clown. At last all fell to casting dice. The +stakes were low, but such as they were luck all went one way. After two +hours' rounds the gentleman had all the half-dollars and shillings, all +the pennies even, in his breeches pocket; and he laughed and sneered in +hateful triumph. Sobered by his losses, which were small but his all, one +teamster surlily said he was going to sleep, and another added, "'Tis high +time." And indeed it was, for at that moment old Janet, the tavern +housemaid, came in to begin her morning round of work, to pinch out the +candles, take up part of the ashes from the chimney-hearth, fill the +kitchen pots and kettles, gather in the empty bottles and glasses; and as +she did so, albeit she was of vast age, she glanced with warm interest at +the fine figure of fashion slapping his pockets, sneering, and drinking +off his glass. "Why, master," she said, staring, "you do be the very cut +of Sir Charles off our sign-board." "Let's see how he looks," swaggered +the young blade; "where's a window whence we can peep at him?" All trooped +to a nigh window in the tavern parlor to look at the portrait of Sir +Charles Buxton on the swing-sign, but to no avail, for there was yet but +scant light without, and they peered out only on thick snowdrifts on the +window panes. But when they reentered the kitchen, lo! their gay companion +was gone. Gone where? Back on the sign-board, of course. All who heard the +oft and ever repeated wonder-tale would have scoffed at the fuddled +notions of a drunken group of stupid teamsters, but the dollars and +shillings and pennies were gone too--the devil knows where; and who was to +pay the score for the double bowl of punch and the half-dozen mugs of +flip Sir Charles Buxton had ordered while the dicing was going on, and a +large share of which he had drunk off with all the zest of flesh and +blood? Besides, Janet had seen him, and Janet's eye for a young man could +never be doubted. + + +[Illustration: The Old Abbey, Bloomingdale Road, New York.] + + +I spent one night a few summers ago in a tavern haunted by the ghost of a +dead past. A sudden halt in our leisurely progress from town to town, +caused by a small but unsurmountable accident to our road-wagon, found us +in a little Massachusetts village of few houses. The blacksmith had gone +to a neighboring village to spend the night. It was twilight, and we +decided not to attempt to reach our intended place for sojourning, six +miles distant. We asked of a passer-by which house was the tavern. "There +isn't any," was the cheerful answer; "if you stay here over night you'll +have to stay at the poorhouse." Now this was rather an unalluring +alternative to any self-respecting citizen, but the night was coming on, +and, after vainly searching for some resident who had ever had summer +boarders, we determined to investigate the poorhouse. We found it the best +house in the village. It was the almshouse, but it had been for half a +century a tavern in reality, when the post-road lay through the town and +travellers were more frequent than to-day. There was evidence of its +tavern days in the old taproom, which had been converted into a +store-room. The house with twenty acres of land had been bequeathed to the +town by one of the old Bourne family that had lived in it so long. This +last Bourne owner was a childless widower, a St. Louis man, who had been +away from the home of his youth since early childhood and had little love +of it from old associations. + + +[Illustration: Tavern Pitcher. Apotheosis of Washington.] + + +The poormaster and his wife we found to be tidy, respectable folk, even +folk of a certain dignity, who owned the adjoining farm. Their own house +had burned down. So for ten years they had run the poorhouse. It had not +proved a very difficult task. Often there were no occupants; one year +there were two Portuguese cranberry pickers, stricken with rheumatism from +exposure in the cranberry bogs. Now both are married to American wives +and own prosperous cranberry bogs of their own. The poorhouse had its +usual quota on the night of our sojourn; we found two paupers living +there. + + +[Illustration: After the Shower.] + + +There was not time to prepare an extra meal of extra quality for the +travellers who came so suddenly for a night's shelter, but the good tea, +plentiful milk, fine bread and butter, honey, hot griddle-cakes, and fried +bacon bore testimony of ample fare and good housewifery. The two paupers +sat at the table and ate with us--a silver-haired old man of exquisite +cleanliness, and a grotesque little humpback. We noted that the old man +was ever addressed by all who spoke to him as Mr. Bourne, and during his +short absence from the room after supper the poor-mistress told us that +the almshouse had been the home and this the farm of his grandfather. The +supper was served in the great kitchen, and here we sat till a curfew bell +rang from the little church belfry at nine o'clock. + +Considerable jealousy was shown by both paupers in their eager desire to +talk with us, and we learned that the dwarf was regarded as a genius; he +composed wonderful epitaphs, and had written poetry for the county +newspaper. He could set type, and could thus earn his living, but was +temporarily more feeble than usual, on account of a weight falling on his +back; after a few months he would go to work again. He represented the +brilliant and intellectual element of communal life, but was hopelessly +plebeian; while Mr. Bourne stood for blood and breeding. This the dwarf +Peter scorned, being a Socialist in his creed. A curious and touching +atmosphere of simplicity and confidence filled the old kitchen. The farmer +and his wife were deeply solicitous for the comfort and health of their +two charges; and as I sat there, tired by my long drive, a little lonely +from the strangeness of the surroundings, there was nevertheless a +profound sense that this poorhouse was truly a home. + + +[Illustration: Sign-board Grosvenor Inn.] + + +It was in the middle of this night that the experience came to me of the +greatest sense of passive comfort that I have known--and think of the +absurdity, in a poorhouse! We heard at midnight a light patter of quick +rain, and soon soft footsteps entered and our window shutters were +carefully closed. "It's me," said our landlady, ungrammatically and +pleasantly. "I didn't mean to wake you, but I always go to Mr. Bourne's +room when it rains to close his window for fear he'll take cold, so I +looked at yours," and the old-time figure in petticoat, shawl, and ruffled +nightcap withdrew as quietly as it had entered. Then came the hour of +half-sleep, a true "dozy hour," as Thackeray said. In this poorhouse, with +no book, no ready light, I fain must lie in silence, hence an hour such as +has been told in perfection in a simple yet finished piece of descriptive +English; let me give the classic prose of Sam Pepys--the words are +his--but the happy hour was mine as well as his:-- + + "Rode easily to Welling, where we supped well, and had two beds in the + room, and so lay single, and still remember it that of all the nights + that I ever slept in my life I never did pass a night with more + epicurism of sleep; there being now and then a noise of people + stirring that wakened me, and then it was a very rainy night, and then + I was a little weary, that what between waking, and then sleeping + again one after another, I never had so much content in all my life." + +When we awoke the following morning Mr. Bourne was awaiting our coming +with some eagerness. The dwarf was absent, and the old man apologized for +one or two of Peter's remarks the night before which had seemed to him +uncivil. These were, however, only some of Peter's mild bitternesses about +division of property, the injustice of modern laws, the inequalities of +taxation, etc., which had seemed harmless enough in the mouth of a pauper. + +While waiting the leisurely repairs of our vehicle at the hands of the +captured blacksmith, I yielded to Mr. Bourne's eager invitation to come +with him to see a piece of land he owned. "It's been in the family near +two hundred years," he said proudly. "Peter says I ought to be ashamed to +tell of my folks' grasping all them years God's gift of the soil that +ought to be just as free as the ocean and the sky; but I'm glad I've got +it. Peter's folks came from Middleboro way, and never did own no land nor +nothin', and I've noticed it's them sort that's always maddest at folks as +does have family things." After a few minutes of silence he added: "Peter +can't help it. It's born in him to feel that way, just as it's born into +me to feel proud of my property." We walked along the sandy road under the +beautiful autumnal sky. A dense group of stunted cedars and one towering +fir tree rose sombrely in a little enclosed corner below the church. "This +is my property," said the old man, cheerfully, "and they're all Bournes +and Swifts in it. There lies my great-grandfather, the old parson, under +that flat stone come from England. Here is my mother. That slate headstone +over there is for my brother lost at sea on one of his voyages. I am going +to be put exactly here. Them four stones I put to mark it. And Peter +hasn't any graveyard--don't even know where his father is buried--so he's +going to lie over here in this corner. He's the only one as ain't a Swift +or a Bourne, and it's a great honor to him. He's had to pay me for it, +though; he's written me an epitaph, and it's a good one; it'll be the best +one in the whole graveyard." + + +[Illustration: The Parting of the Ways.] + + + + +Index + + + Abbott's Tavern, 111-112. + + Accidents on coaches, 365 _et seq._ + + "Accommodation," service in travel, 273, 298. + + _Adam and Eveses Garden_, 157. + + Adams, John, quoted, on landlord, 69; + on drinking habits, 103, 112; + on Revolutionary sentiments, 170-173, 175; + on Revolutionary song, 173. + + Addison, quoted, 140-141. + + Ah-coobee, 101. + + Albany, N. Y., tavern at, 85-86; + foot post to, 275; + stage line at, 365-366; + highway robbery in, 394 _et seq._ + + Ale, use of, 123. + + Alexander, John, highway robbery by, 384 _et seq._ + + Alexandria, Va., turnpike at, 232. + + Alleghany Mountains, pack-horses on, 242. + + Almshouse, ghost story of, 430 _et seq._ + + American House, Springfield, fare at, 88. + + Ames, Nathaniel, tavern of, 164 _et seq._; + almanacks of, 164; + sign-board of, 165. + + Amherst, Mass., sign-boards at, 123, 421. + + Anchor Inn, 5. + + Andover, Mass., tavern license in, 64-66. + + Andros, Sir Edmund, wine list of, 136; + coach of, 256. + + Angel Tavern, 157. + + Animals, at taverns, 197-198. + + Animals' heads, sign-boards of, 138. + + Annals of the Revolution, 377. + + Annual parade, 336. + + Apples, in New England, 125; + in Virginia, 129; + in New York, 130; + names of, 130. + + Arcade Tavern, 294. + + Arlington, Mass., taverns at, 180. + + Armitage, Joseph, ordinary-keeper, 5. + + Arnold, David, tavern of, 215. + + Arnold, Peleg, tavern of, 352; + roads of, 352; + milestone of, 352-353. + + Artists, as sign-board painters, 142 _et seq._ + + Ashburnham Thief Detecting Society, handbill of, 393. + + Ashton, John, cited, 193. + + Auctions. _See_ Vendues. + + Ayers, John, 170 _et seq._ + + + Bacchanalians, 141. + + Backgammon, at coffee-houses, 49. + + Badger and Porter's Stage Lists, 273, 372. + + Bag-o'-Nails, 141. + + Balancing on stage-coach, 367-368. + + Balch, John, post-rider, 309. + + Balloons, at taverns, 198; + on railroads, 285. + + Baltimore, Md., taverns in, 32; + wine prices at, 88-89; + turnpikes in, 232; + Conestoga wagons at, 247; + highway robbery in, 384 _et seq._ + + Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, 284. + + Bannocks, Tuggie, 95-96. + + Bar, in taverns, 43. + + Barbadoes, rum in, 100. + + Barbadoes brandy, 101. + + Barbadoes liquor, 101. + + Barberries, superstitions about, 340-341. + + Barge, use of word, 266-267. + + Barnum, P. T., quoted, 130. + + Barnum's Hotel, Baltimore, prices at, 88-89. + + Barre, sign-board at, 168. + + Barre, Colonel, 173. + + Barre and Worcester Stage Line, 305. + + Barrington, R I., prices at, 79-80. + + Bartlett, Eliphalet, tavern of, 47. + + Bay Path, 224-225. + + Beakers, glass, 44. + + Beal, Thomas, coach line of, 271-272. + + Bear, as a mark, 208. + + Beaumont, quoted, 207. + + Beehive Tavern, 154. + + Beer, brewing regulated by law, 4; + price established, 4; + in New York, 121; + in Virginia, 121-122. + + Bell Savage, 141. + + Bell teams, 247. + + Bell, Tom, story of, 380-381. + + Bellarmine jug, 44. + + Bellows-top, 109. + + Bells, on pack-horses, 243; + on Conestoga wagons, 247-248. + + Bennett, quoted, 103, 128, 256-257. + + Berkeley, Governor, quoted, 122. + + Bethlehem, Penn., tavern at, 57 _et seq._ + + Beverige, 131-132. + + Beverly, Mass., ordinary at, 2. + + Bible and Key, 157. + + Bible and Peacock, 157. + + Biblical names, of towns, 58; + of taverns, 157. + + Bickerdyke, quoted, 132. + + Bilboes, 8, 215. + + Billiards, forbidden, 5. + + Bills of fare, 87-88. + + Bingham house a tavern, 53. + + Birch, beer of, 123; + vistas of, 346. + + Bispham's Tavern, Trenton, 83-84. + + Bissell's Tavern, 150-151. + + "Bite," 327. + + Black Ben, anecdote of, 332. + + Black, William, quoted, 116. + + Black Horse Tavern, Winchester, 180. + + "Blacks," 373. + + Black Horse Tavern, 39; + shows at, 197. + + Black jacks, 14. + + Black Sam. _See_ Samuel Fraunces. + + Black strap, 104. + + Bladensburgh, Md., tavern at, 32. + + Bliss, Joseph, 311. + + Bliss Tavern, Haverhill, N. H., 311, 314. + + Blood, Sam, ghost story of, 420 _et seq._ + + Blue Anchor Tavern, Boston, names of chambers, 18; + landlord of, 62. + + Blue Anchor Tavern, Cambridge, bills at, 81. + + Bogus, 104. + + Bonaparte, Jerome, 186. + + Bonnets, bought by stage-drivers, 328; + highway robbery of, 408. + + Book auctions, 197. + + Boreel Building, 35. + + Boston, ordinaries in, 6, 9, 10-11, 13, 17-19; + night watch in, 6; + smoking fined in, 13; + ale-houses in, 20; + liquor sellers in, 25; + disorder in, 26-27; + taverns in, 154; + oldest inn in, 180; + pillory in, 218; + bridges in, 228 _et seq._; + coaches in, 256 _et seq._; + stage-coach lines from, 271 _et seq._, 371 _et seq._ + + Boston, Sarah, 96-99. + + Boston and Hartford Stage Line, 291 _et seq._ + + Boston and Lowell R. R., 287. + + Boston and Providence R. R., 287. + + Boston and Worcester R. R., first cars on, 287. + + Boston _Courier_, objects to railroads, 289. + + Boston Tea Party, 181. + + Boston _Traveller_, 273. + + Bound children, 221. + + Bowen Inn, prices at, 79-80. + + Bowls, forbidden, 5. + + Box, fragrance of, 347. + + Brackett, Landlord, 84-85. + + Braddock, General, horses and wagons for, 242 _et seq._ + + Braddock's trail, 243. + + Bradford, printer, of Philadelphia, 49-50. + + Bradish, Sister, encouraged in brewing, 122. + + Bradstreet, Simon, bills of, 5; + rides in coach, 256. + + Brakes, early, 288. + + Brandy-wine, 101. + + Bray, Major, robbery of, 405 _et seq._ + + Brazil, story of, 298 _et seq._ + + Breck, Samuel, cited, 218. + + Bridges, sign-boards on, 149; + of fallen trees, 223, 356; + building of, 228; + of stone, 356; + of wood, 357-358; + insecurity of, 366 _et seq._ + + Bridle-paths, 223. + + Brissot, quoted, 67. + + _British Apollo_, 139. + + Brookfield, Mass., tavern at, 140; + war at, 170 _et seq._ + + Brookline, Mass., turkey-shoot in, 208; + tavern, anecdote of, 383-384. + + Brown, John, chariot of, 258-259. + + Browner, Deb., 94-95. + + Bryant, Harrison, anecdote of, 324-325. + + Buck Horn Tavern, 169. + + Buckman Tavern, 23, 179-180, 384. + + Bucks County Historical Society, Pennsylvania, 239, 252. + + Buffalo Bill, coach of, 265. + + Buggy, 258. + + Bull and Mouth, 141-142. + + Bull-baiting, 209. + + Bully Dawson, punch recipe of, 119-120. + + Bunch of Grapes, lecture at, 198, 204-205. + + Bunting, 92. + + Burke, Edmund, quoted, 103. + + Burlington, Mass., tavern at, 182-183. + + Burnaby, quoted, 90. + + Burning at stake, 218-219. + + Burns, George, 36. + + Bush, as tavern-sign, 169. + + Butchers, as letter-carriers, 274. + + Butler, coach-driver, 268. + + Buxton Inn, ghost story of, 426 _et seq._ + + Bynner, Edwin Lasseter, quoted, 196-197. + + + Cable cars, 285. + + Calash, described, 257. + + Calibogus, 104. + + Calves' head soup, 89. + + Cambridge, Mass., seating meeting at, 16-17; + first landlord at, 63; + first liquor license at, 63; + selectmen's bills at, 81; + negro burned in, 218-219. + + Canajoharie, N. Y., stages at, 236; + spelling of name, 237. + + Canary, use of, 32. + + Canton, Mass., flip in, 109. + + Captain Lightfoot, 402. + + Captain Thunderbolt, 402-403, 407. + + "Carding," forbidden, 5. + + Carriages, for pleasure, 227; + in Philadelphia, 256. + + Cars on railroads, 285 _et seq._ + + Carts, near Boston, 257; + in New England, 313. + + Cart-bridges, 228. + + Cartways, 222. + + Castle Inn, scene at, 28-29. + + Cat and Wheel, 141. + + Catfish suppers, 90-91. + + Catherine Wheel, 141. + + Cato's House, 40-41. + + Cattle tracks, 223. + + Cavalry corps, in Massachusetts, 226. + + Central Hotel, Worcester, 303. + + Centrebrook, Conn., tavern at, 152-153. + + Chain bridge, Newburyport, 230. + + Chair, described, 258. + + Chaise, described, 257-258; + French, 258. + + Chalking his hat, 233. + + Chapin, C. W., 338. + + Chariots, 253, 258-259. + + Charles River, bridge over, 228 _et seq._ + + Charlestown, Mass., great house at, 15. + + Charlestown, N. H., tavern at, 154; + coachman at, 323. + + Cheney, B. P., 338. + + Chester, Vt., marriages at, 345. + + "Chopping," 327. + + Church, Dr., a traitor, 181. + + Cider, use of, 103 _et seq._; + price of, 125, 128, 129; + manufacture of, 128. + + Ciderkin, 130. + + Cider-royal, 130. + + City Hotel, Hartford, bill of fare, 89. + + City Hotel, New York, 37 _et seq._ + + City Tavern, New York, 33 _et seq._ + + Claret, use of, 136. + + Clark's Inn, Philadelphia, 55 _et seq._ + + Clawson, John, murder of, 341-342. + + Clifford's Tavern, thief sold at, 219-220. + + Clubs, in taverns, 35. + + Cluffe, Richard, anecdote of, 4-5. + + Coachee, described, 257. + + Coaches, in England, 253-256; + objections to, 254; + books about, 255-256; + in America, 256 _et seq._; + in Scotland, 283. + + Coachmen, in England, 323, 328, 336-337. + + Coast Path, 224. + + Cochran, Mordecai, 233. + + Coffee, introduction of, 48; + abuse of, 48. + + Coffee-houses, in London, 47-48; + in New York, 48-49; + in Philadelphia, 49-50; + in Boston, 50-51. + + Coffyn, Tristram, keeps ordinary, 2. + + Cohos Turnpike, 309. + + Cohos Valley, 308. + + Cole, Samuel, keeps ordinary, 180. + + Coles, Robert, two sentences of, 8. + + Collier, William, wine seller, 63. + + Collin's Tavern, 92. + + Comfortier, 46. + + Commutation, in travel, 298. + + Concerts, at taverns, 203. + + Concord, Mass., lack of ordinary in, 2; + tavern at, 179. + + Concord, N. H., coach-making in, 264-265; + stagemen's ball at, 336. + + Conestoga wagons, first appearance in history, 242-243; + payment for use of, 242; + a pride, 245; + shape of, 246; + equipment of, 247-248; + number of, 249; + in Revolution, 250; + in War of 1812, 250; + in New England, 312 _et seq._ + + Conkey Tavern, 186-188. + + Connecticut, laws in, 2; + apples in, 125. + + Convicts sent to America, 374. + + Cook, Tom, 381 _et seq._ + + Coolidge, turnkey, 406. + + Cooper, James Fenimore, quoted, 68-69. + + Cooper Tavern, 180. + + Corduroy roads, 227-228. + + Courts held in taverns, 213-214. + + Cowper, quoted, 266. + + Cox, Lemuel, bridges of, 229 _et seq._ + + Craft's Tavern, 205. + + Creels, transportation by, 283. + + Criminals, public punishment of, 214 _et seq._; + sale of, 219-220. + + Cromwell's Head Tavern, 84-85. + + Crosby, J., advertisement of, 117-118. + + Curricle, described, 257-258. + + Cutpurse, Moll, 374. + + Cutter, Joseph, tavern of, 153. + + + Danbury, Conn., railroad incident at, 287. + + Dancing, forbidden, 4, 6; + at New York ball, 39. + + Danforth, Nicholas, sells wine, 63. + + Danforth, Samuel, anecdote of, 10. + + Dankers, quoted, 130. + + Darrach, Mrs. Lydia, action of, 378. + + Daughters of Liberty, 173. + + Davenport, George, tavern bill of, 177-178. + + Deer seen from coach, 345. + + De Lanceys, house of, 35-36, 183-184. + + De Lancey Arms, bull-baiting at, 209. + + Dennie, Joseph, 206-207. + + De Quincey, quoted, 360. + + Dicing forbidden, 5. + + Dickens, Charles, quoted, 255. + + Distances, elastic, 354. + + Doanes, story of, 377 _et seq._ + + Dogs, turnspits, 55-57. + + Doherty, John, 402. + + Doolittle Tavern, 153. + + Door-latch, iron, 42. + + Dorchester, Mass., tavern at, 175. + + Drafts, in America, 374-375. + + "Draw," 327. + + Dress of stage-drivers, 325-326. + + Drift of the forest, 210. + + Drivers, rivalry of, 269; + of wagons in New England, 313. + + Driving, rules for, 333-334. + + Drunkenness, laws about, 7 _et seq._, 34-35; + of coachmen, 295, 328. + + Dunbarton, N. H., 219-220. + + Dunton, John, quoted on landlord, 5, 62; + on punch bowl, 116. + + Dutch, drink of, 103. + + Duxbury, Mass., ordinary at, 3, 64. + + Dwight, Dr., quoted on landlords, 66. + + + Eagle Coffee-house, Concord, N. H., 336. + + Eagle Tavern, East Poultney, Vt., 46. + + Eagle Tavern, Newton, N. H., 46-47. + + Ear-bells, 247. + + Earl of Halifax Tavern, 175-177, 278. + + Early start of stage-coaches, 294, 369 _et seq._ + + East Poultney, Vt., taverns at, 46. + + East Windsor, Conn., tavern at, 150-153. + + Eastern Stage Company, 273 _et seq._; + drivers of, 332, 338. + + Eastern Stage House, 199. + + Ebulum, 132. + + Egan, Pierce, books of, 321-322. + + Egg-hot, 111 + + Egg-nogg, Cato's, 41. + + Egg-nogg stick, 114. + + Eicholtz, sign-board by, 153. + + Electrical machines, at taverns, 198. + + Ellery Tavern, Gloucester, accounts at, 80-81. + + Elopements, 344-345. + + Emerson, Joseph, ownership of a "shay," 259-260. + + Emerson, R. W., anecdote told by, 358-359. + + Endicott, Governor, bills of, 5; + apples planted by, 125. + + Enlisting, 188 _et seq._ + + Epping, N. H., anecdote of coaching at, 368-369. + + Ernst, C. W., quoted, 227, 267, 280. + + Essex Bridge, 229. + + Essex Turnpike, 231. + + Everett, David, 207. + + Exchange Coffee-house, Boston, 50 _et seq._, 199. + + Exchange Hotel, Worcester, 300. + + Exchange Tavern, Boston, 45. + + Execution Day, 217, 312. + + Experiment railroad, 284. + + + Falstaff Inn, 155. + + Farming, 327. + + Farrar, Major John, keeps tavern, 293. + + Father of the Turnpike, 297. + + Fayal wine, use of, 32. + + Fayetteville, N. C., bridge at, 366-367. + + Federal Convention Inn, 145 _et seq._ + + Ferries, ordinaries at, 2; + establishment of, 228; + frozen in, 279. + + Fessenden, T. G., 207. + + Fiennes, Celia, quoted, 244-245. + + Finlay, Hugh, quoted, 277-278. + + Fireplaces, 41-42. + + Fisher, Joshua, 164. + + Fitchburg, Mass., tavern at, 16. + + Fitzhugh, Colonel, apple trees of, 129. + + Flagg, Parson, marriages of, 345. + + Flip, description of, 108; + early note of, 108; + in Canton, Mass., 109; + in England, 110; + recipe for, 111; + price of, 112; + taste of, 113. + + Flip dog, 112. + + Flip glasses, 109-110. + + Flip iron, 112. + + Floating bridges, 228, 367. + + Flowers, of gardens, 347; + of fields, 347; + of orchards, 348. + + Flying machines, 261. + + Flying Mail Stages, 261. + + Flying wagons, 261. + + Foot-bridges, 228. + + Foot-paths, 223, 225. + + Foot-port, 275. + + Fountain Inn, Baltimore, Md., 32. + + Fountain Inn, Medford, Mass., 53 _et seq._ + + Four Alls, 160-161. + + Fox and Hounds, 168. + + Fox-chase, 209, 210. + + Franklin, Benjamin, home of, a tavern, 53; + quoted, 69-70; + on sign-board, 152; + at tavern, 195; + secures wagons for Braddock's Army, 242-243; + milestones of, 353; + cyclometer of, 353. + + Franklin Inn, 159. + + Fraunces, Samuel, 183-184. + + Fraunces Tavern, 183-184. + + Freemasons, at tavern, 180, 203 _et seq._ + + Freight cars, 287. + + Frey, S. L., cited, 211. + + Furs, 243. + + + Games, prohibited, 5. + + Gardens, 347. + + Garrigues Ferry, 91. + + Gates on turnpikes, 237. + + General Ticket Office, of Pease, 298. + + Genessee Valley, 234. + + Gentlemen sailors, 189 _et seq._ + + Germantown, Penn., 155. + + Ghosts, in England, 409; + in taverns, 410; + of Indians, 410. + + Gig, 226. + + Gimlet team, 314. + + Gin, use of, 103. + + Gloucester, Mass., tavern bills at, 80-81. + + Goat and Compass, 141. + + _Going Down with Victory_, 360. + + Golden Hill Inn, 184-185. + + Golden Lion, 163. + + Good Intent Coach Line, 268. + + Good Woman, 162-163. + + Grafton, Mass., Indians at, 96. + + Grease-pot. _See_ Tar-lodel. + + Green Bush, 169. + + Green Dragon Inn, 180-181. + + Greenfield, Mass., tavern at, 153. + + Gregory's Tavern, Albany, 85-86. + + Greyhound Tavern, 10, 24. + + Grog, 104. + + "Grub," 249. + + Guide-boards, 354. + + "Gumption," 130. + + + Hall, Basil, quoted, 67, 79, 208-209, 290, 370. + + Hall, Francis, quoted on landlords, 66. + + Hammond, John, quoted, 131-132. + + Hancock, John, on sign-board, 152; + at Liberty Tavern, 175. + + Hancock Tavern, 152. + + Handkerchief with postal lists, 281 _et seq._ + + Hanging in chains, 342. + + Hardy, Governor, dinner to, 36. + + Hare Brothers, highway robbery by, 386 _et seq._ + + Harnesses of Conestoga wagons, 247. + + Harrington Tavern, Shrewsbury, Mass., 299. + + Hartford, Conn., tavern at, 43-44; + ordination bill at, 82. + + Harvard College, cider at, 125; + Commencement at, 128; + love-making in, 216-217; + pillory in, 218. + + Harvey, Governor, complaint of, 32. + + Hat Tavern and Sign-board, 147. + + Hatch, Israel, coach lines of, 271-272. + + Haverhill, N. H., tavern and stage life in, 309-319. + + Hawthorne, quoted, 218. + + Hayden Tavern, sign-board of, 28, 150. + + Hays' Tavern, Brattleboro, 65. + + Hen and Chickens, 151-152. + + Henry, Edward Lamson, collections of, 32-33. + + Herndon, John, curse of, 341. + + Hicks, sign-board by, 239. + + Highwaymen, in England, 373, 375; + in America, 374 _et seq._ + + Highwaywomen, 408. + + Hingham, Mass., Thief Detecting Society of, 393. + + Histrionic academies, 200. + + Hogarth, sign-board by, 160. + + Holden, Mass., flip at, 111-112. + + Holland, J. G., quoted, 225. + + Holyhead Road, 230-231. + + Horns as tavern-signs, 169. + + Horse-bridges, 228. + + Horse-cars, 285. + + Horse-paths, 237. + + Horse thief, 211 _et seq._ + + Horses as tavern-signs, 152; + rearing of, 226; + plenty of, 227; + of Conestoga breed, 247; + in Boston, 257; + on New England wagons, 315; + on stage-coaches, 332-333; + false tails on, 333. + + Hotels, evolution of, 51-52. + + Hottle, 112. + + Hound-handle pitcher, 26. + + Hundredth Town, 96. + + Hutchinson, Governor, milestones set by, 350. + + + Ibbetson, sign-board by, 142. + + Indian Queen Tavern, Bladensburg, 32. + + Indian Queen Tavern, Philadelphia, 52-53. + + Indians, sale of rum prohibited to, 7, 103; + leniency to, 92 _et seq._; + on sign-boards, 154; + attack on Brookfield, 170 _et seq._; + wars of, 170 _et seq._; + paths of, 223 _et seq._; + as mail-carriers, 274-275; + ghosts of, 410. + + Inn, use of word, 30. + + Insurance office in tavern, 198. + + Inveigling of girls' affections, 216-217. + + Ipswich, Mass., landlord at, 69; + shipping at, 217. + + Ipswich River, bridge on, 358. + + Irish workers on roads, 233-234. + + + Jackasses, sale of, 197. + + Jacks. _See_ Black-jacks. + + Jansen, quoted, 263. + + Jefferson, Thomas, quoted, 232. + + Jencks, Reuben, tavern of, 410 _et seq._ + + Jencks Tavern, ghost story of, 410-419. + + Johnstown, N. Y., tavern at, 85. + + Jokes, of landlords, 70 _et seq._; + at taverns, 92. + + Jordan, John V., account of The Rose Tavern, 57. + + Josselyn, John, quoted, 69, 129. + + Joyce, Herbert, quoted, 281. + + June Bug, coach line, 268. + + + Kalm, quoted, 130. + + Kennebunk Road by the Sea, 224. + + Kentucky, metheglin in, 124. + + "Kids," 374. + + Kieft, Director, quoted, 33. + + Kill devil, 100, 101. + + King's Arms, Boston, inventory of, 17 _et seq._ + + King's Arms, Newport, play at, 200 _et seq._ + + King's College, services at, 36. + + King's Head Tavern, Brooklyn, 209-210. + + Kittery, Me., makes road, 224. + + Knights, Sarah, quoted, 76 _et seq._; + journey of, 76. + + Knot bowl, Indian, 44. + + + Lackawanna, pauper sold at, 221. + + Lafayette, on sign-boards, 152; + at taverns, 186, 195, 301. + + Lamb, Charles, quoted, 119. + + Lamb Tavern, 199. + + Lambert, John, quoted, 333. + + Lancaster, Mass., cider at, 128. + + Lancaster, Penn., taverns in, 143 _et seq._, 213-214; + sign-boards in, 143; + Conestoga wagons in, 243, 252; + pack-horses at, 245; + steam cars at, 287; + stage-coach at, 370-371. + + Lang, Andrew, quoted, 414. + + Langdon, J. F., 334. + + La Rochefoucauld, cited, 227. + + La Tour, indignity to his companion, 11. + + Lay Preacher, 206-207. + + Lebanon Tavern, 157. + + Lecture Day, 218. + + Lemons, sign of, 139. + + Lemons, 117. + + "Leveller," 382. + + Lexington, Mass., taverns at, 179-180; + highway robbery at, 384. + + Ley, Lord, at Boston ordinary, 6. + + Liberty poles, 173. + + Liberty trees, 173 _et seq._ + + License, of taverns, 64 _et seq._ + + _Life in London_, 321-322. + + Lighthouse, Sandy Hook, 36-37. + + Lime Rock, R. I., tavern at, 44. + + "Limited" service, of travel, 298. + + Linnaeus, classification of, 347. + + Literary Club of Walpole, 205-207. + + Little Falls, N. Y., fare at, 85. + + Lloyd, Governor, house a tavern, 53. + + Locomotives, early, 284, 286. + + Loggerhead, 108-109. + + Loggets, forbidden, 5. + + London Coffee-house, Philadelphia, 49. + + Londonderry, Ireland, bridge at, 229. + + _London Labour and London Poor_, 320. + + Longfellow, quoted, 371. + + Lottery, for Sandy Hook Lighthouse, 36; + at taverns, 203. + + Louis Philippe, at tavern, 181. + + Lowell, quoted, 113. + + _Loyal Garland_, 133. + + _Loyalists_, 377. + + Lucas, John, chariot of, 258. + + Ludlow, Lt., robbery of, 384 _et seq._ + + + Macadamized roads, 231 _et seq._ + + Macraby, Alexander, quoted, 49. + + Madeira, use of, 32, 103; + prices of, 88, 89. + + Madigolum, 58. + + Madison's War, 191. + + Mail, transportation of, 269; + by butchers, 274; + by Indians, 275; + by post, 275; + irregularity of, 275; + conditions of service, 277-278; + in England, 281; + in Scotland, 283 _et seq._; + in United States, 297, 305. + + Mail-coaches, on Holyhead Road, 230-231; + at Whitestown, N. Y., 236; + at Canajoharie, 237; + in England, 255, 280; + in America, 269, 280 _et seq._; + glories of, 360. + + Mail Stage Carriages, 261. + + Maize, beer from, 121, 122. + + Malaga, use of, 30. + + Malden Bridge, 229. + + Man Full of Trouble, 159 _et seq._ + + Man Loaded with Mischief, 159 _et seq._ + + Man Making his Way through the World, 161-162. + + Manners at taverns, 78. + + Mansion House, Philadelphia, 86-87. + + March, Hugh, keeps an ordinary, 2-3. + + Marden, H. P., 335. + + Mariners' Club, 420. + + Market, winter ride to, 316-320. + + Markham, Gervayse, 133. + + Marlborough, Mass., 224. + + "Marmalet-madams," 6. + + Martin, Mike, career of, 401 _et seq._ + + Maryland, road house in, 33; + pillory in, 218; + turnpikes in, 232, 234; + railroads in, 284-285. + + Massachusetts Grand Lodge, 204. + + Mather, Cotton, quoted, 20. + + Mather, Increase, quoted, 102. + + Mather, Samuel, quoted, 117. + + May, Silas, opens stage line, 309. + + McAdam, James, 231. + + McAdam, Loudon, 231. + + McGowan's Tavern, 249-250. + + Mead, use of, 123-124. + + Meals, price of, 4; + at early taverns, 76-77, 317. + + Medford, Mass., tavern at, 53 _et seq._ + + Meeting-house, relation to tavern, 13-14; + discomforts of, 14. + + Melish, John, quoted, 85, 230, 371. + + Mendenhall Ferry Tavern, 90-91. + + Mendum, Jack, anecdote of, 331-332. + + Merchants' Coffee-house, 49. + + Metheglin, use of, 124-125; + price of, 124. + + Mileposts, in Massachusetts, 350-351; + in Connecticut, 351-352; + in Rhode Island, 352. + + Militia, 249. + + Miller, "Devil" Dave, 73-74. + + "Mimbo," 104. + + Miner, H. S., quoted, 313, 332, 334. + + "Mitchin," 317. + + Mohawk Turnpike, 234 _et seq._ + + Molasses, rum from, 103; + beer from, 122. + + Monk, George, 62. + + Monroe Tavern, 179. + + Monteith punch bowl, 115. + + Moore, Thomas, quoted, 366. + + Moose, exhibited, 197-198. + + Morland, George, sign-board by, 142. + + Morton, Thomas, punished in bilboes, 215. + + Mowry, Roger, tavern of, 340. + + Mowry's Inn, 44. + + Mulberry trees, 346. + + Mulled wine, recipe for, 136. + + Murline, Jacob, love-making of, 216-217. + + + Nahant Hotel plate, 206. + + Naming of chambers, 17-18. + + Nangatuck, Conn., tavern at, 92. + + Narragansett, travel in, 341, _et seq._; + murder in, 342; + shift marriages in, 343; + elopement in, 344-345; + burial of suicide in, 344. + + Narragansett Pacers, 226. + + National Line, 268. + + National Road, travellers on, 195, 233; + construction of, 232 _et seq._; + coach lines on, 268 _et seq._ + + Negro highwayman, 388. + + Negus, 137. + + Neighborliness, of colonists, 1. + + Newbury, Mass., ordinary at, 2. + + Newburyport, Mass., tavern at, 145; + bill at, 177-178; + bridge at, 230. + + Newburyport Turnpike, 231. + + New Connecticut Path, 224. + + New Exchange, N. Y., 48-49. + + New Hampshire, stage-drivers in, 334-336. + + _New Liberty Song_, 173. + + New London, Conn., milestone at, 353. + + New Netherland, taverns in, 33. + + Newport, R. I., turtle-feast at, 90; + play at, 200 _et seq._ + + Newspapers, at taverns, 91-92. + + New York, taverns in, 33 _et seq._, 90; + just from, 275. + + Night-watch, rules in Boston, 6; + in Bethlehem, Penn., 58 _et seq._; + rhymes of, 60. + + Ninepins, forbidden, 5. + + Nipmuck Trail, 224. + + Noah's Ark, 157. + + Norfolk, Va., impressment in, 191-192. + + _Notions of the Americans_, 68, 82-83. + + Nutmeg-holders, 137. + + Nutmegs, use of, 136-137. + + + "Ocuby," 101. + + Ohio Company, organization of, 205. + + Ohio, settlement of, 234 _et seq._; + emigration to, 416. + + Old Connecticut Path, 224. + + Oldmixon, quoted, 125. + + Olmstead, Nicholas, in pillory, 218. + + Olney Tavern, 174. + + Omnibus, 273. + + Ordinaries, use of word, 1, 30; + reasons for establishment of, 2; + inducements to keep, 2; + restrictions upon, 3-4, 7, 10-11. + + Ordination ball, 82. + + Ordination beer, 82. + + Ordination Day, 82; + liquor at, 116. + + "Owlers," 373. + + + Pack-horses, in England, 241, 244; + on Alleghany Mountains, 242-244; + common carriers, 245. + + Paddock, coaches of, 280. + + Palmer, starts mail-coaches, 280. + + Parkman, Dr., diary of, 383. + + Parley, Peter, quoted, 186, 284-285. + + Parlor, of tavern, 41-42. + + Patriot Brothers, sign-board, 149. + + Paulus Hook, stage-coaches from, 262. + + Paupers, sale of, 220-222. + + Peachy, 132. + + Pease, Levi, 293 _et seq._ + + Pease Tavern, 291 _et seq._ + + Peg Mullen's Beefsteak House, 203-204. + + Pelham, Mass., tavern at, 186-188; + tolls at, 240. + + Pembroke Tavern, sign-board of, 217. + + Penn, Richard, home a tavern, 53. + + Penn, William, quoted, 104. + + Pepys, Samuel, quoted, 433. + + Pequot Trail, milestone on, 353. + + Perkins Inn, sign-board of, 152. + + Perry, 132. + + Persimmons, beer from, 122. + + Phelps, Joseph, 150. + + Philadelphia, Penn., taverns in, 33, 86-87; + as a port, 33; + sign-boards in, 163; + freemasons in, 203; + courts in, 213; + carriages in, 256; + lines of stages, 261, 267-268. + + Phillips House, 45. + + Pick-a-back, across rivers, 223-224. + + Pig and Carrot, 141. + + Pillion, 226. + + Pillory, 218. + + Pine trees of the King, 346. + + Pine Tree Tavern, 46. + + Pioneer Line, 268-270. + + Pipe-tongs, 46. + + Pitcairn, Major, anecdote of, 179. + + Pitt, William, sign-board of, 151, 156, 173, 177. + + Pitt Tavern, 151. + + Plays, at taverns, 200 _et seq._ + + Plymouth, Mass., first wine sellers in, 63. + + Plymouth Path, 224. + + "Pod," 316. + + "Podanger," 314. + + "Pointing," 327. + + Pompoins. _See_ Pumpkins. + + Poore Tavern, 159. + + Portsmouth, N. H., tavern at, 175-176; + stage line at, 278 _et seq._ + + Portsmouth Road, 342. + + Post, riding with, 76; + by foot, 275-276; + duties of, 275; + in Haverhill, N. H., 309. + + Postal rates, 282. + + Postlethwaite's Tavern, 213-214. + + Postmaster, salary of, 277. + + Post-riders, 276-277. + + Potatoes, beer from, 122. + + Potter, Paul, sign-board by, 142-143. + + Pottle, 84. + + Prairie schooner, 252. + + Pratt, Matthew, sign-board by, 146. + + Prescott, Mass., tavern at, 186-188. + + Press-gang, 191-192. + + Prices of tavern fare, 4, 5, 31, 79-82, 84, 85, 88-89. + + Products, of New England farm, 316-317. + + Providence, R. I., first ordinary at, 16, 340; + Liberty Tree at, 174; + rival coach lines from, 271 _et seq._ + + Providence Path, 224. + + Province Arms, New York, 35 _et seq._ + + Province House, Boston, a tavern, 53. + + Prygman, 219. + + Pseudonyms, 207. + + Pumpkins, beer from, 122, 123. + + Punch, use of, 103, 115, 116; + derivation of, 114; + recipe for, 116-117, 120; + price of, 118, 177; + names of, 118-119. + + Punch bowls, 114 _et seq._ + + Punch Bowl Tavern, turkey-shoot at, 208. + + Punch-tasters, 118. + + "Pung," 316. + + Punishments, 214 _et seq._ + + Putnam, Israel, a landlord, 145. + + Pye, John, robbery of, 394 _et seq._ + + Pygarg, 197. + + + Quakers, whipped, 217. + + Quarles, quoted, 29. + + Quawbang, 170. + + Queen's Birthday, celebration of, 26. + + Queen's Head, 183. + + Quick, Elmira, sold as pauper, 221-222. + + Quincy, Eliza S., quoted, 276. + + Quincy, Josiah, quoted, 104, 294-295, 370-371. + + Quincy Railroad, 284. + + Quoits, forbidden, 5. + + + Rabbit, on sign-board, 153. + + Railroads, early, 284 _et seq._; + objections to, 288-290; + discomforts of, 349. + + Rainbow Coffee-house, 48. + + Raleigh Inn, 155. + + Rambarge. _See_ Rumbarge. + + Rambooze. _See_ Rumbooze. + + Ramsey, landlord, 74-75. + + Recruiting offices, taverns as, 188 _et seq._ + + Redemptioners, 374. + + Red Rose of the Olden Time, 57 _et seq._ + + Reed, President, quoted, 250. + + Regulars, 249. + + Reins, on Conestoga wagons, 248; + on stage-coaches, 334. + + Revere, Paul, engraving by, 84; + quoted, 181. + + Rhymes, of taprooms, 45; + of night-watch, 60-61. + + Ribbonmen, 401. + + Riedesel, Baron, quoted, 103. + + Road-bed of early railroads, 288. + + Road house, 33. + + Road wagon, 260. + + Roads, earliest, 223; + quality of, 227; + in England, 230 _et seq._ + + Robinson, Hannah, elopement of, 344. + + Robinson's Tavern, 175. + + Rogers, Fairman, quoted, 265. + + Rose Tavern, 57. + + Royal Exchange Tavern, Boston, 204. + + Rum, first use of word, 100; + derivation of word, 100; + varying prices, 102, 103; + in mixed drinks, 104 _et seq._ + + Rumbarge, 101. + + Rumbooze, description of, 101. + + Rum bottles, 102. + + Rumbowling, 101. + + Rumbullion, 100. + + Rumfustian, description of, 101. + + Russel Tavern, 180. + + Rye, N. Y., ordinary at, 77. + + + Sack, selling prohibited, 4; + early mention of, 133 _et seq._; + application of name, 133; + price of, 134; + in America, 135 _et seq._ + + Sack-posset, use of, 134; + recipe for, 134-135. + + Sail boats, on sign-boards, 159. + + Sailors, on sign-boards, 158-159. + + Salem, Mass., tavern bill of, 16; + sign-board in, 19-20; + woman keeps tavern in, 20; + animal shows at, 197. + + Salem, N. J., tavern prices at, 118. + + Salem and Boston Turnpike, 231. + + Salt, on pack-horses, 244. + + Saltonstall, Nathaniel, protest of, 21-22. + + Sanborn, Charles, 334. + + Sandy Hook Lighthouse, 36-37. + + Sangaree, 134. + + Sassafras, beer of, 123. + + Scents, of woods, 348; + of gardens, 348-349; + of fields, 347-349; + of fruits, 349. + + Schoolboys on coaches, 329-330. + + Schuylkill Bridge, 230. + + Scotchem, 105-108. + + Seabury, liquor seller, 64. + + Sea terms in land travel, 267. + + Seating the meeting, 16-17. + + Selectmen, bills of, 80-81. + + Sewall, Samuel, Judge, compared with Pepys, 24; + character of, 24-25; + on a wedding, 135-136; + buys trunks, 330; + on suicide, 344. + + Shad, planked, 89. + + Shaffer, anecdote of, 272. + + Shaw, Major, on railroads, 339. + + "Shay," 258; + cost of, 259. + + Shays's Rebellion, 186 _et seq._ + + Sherris-sack, 134. + + Shift marriages, 343. + + Ship in distress, 159. + + Shouldering, 326. + + Shows, in taverns, 28. + + Shrewsbury, Mass., tavern talk at, 172; + taverns at, 291 _et seq._ + + Shuffle-board, forbidden, 5. + + Sign-boards, in early ordinaries, 19-20; + use of, 138 _et seq._; + materials of, 138; + in business, 138-139; + incongruity of, 139 _et seq._; + on bridges, 238-239. + + Sign-posts, established, 138. + + Sikes. _See_ Sykes. + + Silent Woman, 162. + + Singing, forbidden, 4. + + Skidding, 327. + + Skinners, 377. + + Slat sign, 149. + + Sledding, 313. + + Sledges, transportation by, 241, 283. + + Sleeping accommodations, 77-79, 318. + + Slide-groat, forbidden, 5. + + Sling, 104. + + Small drink, described, 121. + + Smith, Adam, on smuggling, 373. + + Smoking-tongs, 46. + + Snake heads, 286. + + Sniggers and Vesta's Gap, turnpike to, 232. + + Snow-shoes, post on, 275; + mail carried on, 297. + + Sons of Liberty, 37, 173. + + South Kingston, R. I., shift manages at, 373. + + Southworth, Constant, wine seller, 63. + + Sowrings, 117-118. + + _Spectator_, 140. + + Spike team, 314. + + Sports of the innyards, 5. + + Sprague, Francis, ordinary-keeper, 64. + + Springfield, Mass., fare at, 88. + + Spruce, beer of, 122-123. + + Stadt Harberg, 33. + + Stage, use of word, 265-267. + + Stage-chair, 278. + + Stage-chaise, 261. + + Stage-chariot, 261. + + Stage-coaches, of year 1828, 218; + in England, 255, 274; + in Boston and Rhode Island, 260-261; + in Pennsylvania, 263; + of year 1818, 263-264; + application of word, 265; + in Pennsylvania, 268; + rates on, 270, 273; + rates in England, 271; + from Portsmouth, 278 _et seq._; + sights from, 345 _et seq._; + courtship on, 359-360. + + Stage-drivers, 323; + characteristics of, 324 _et seq._; + dress of, 325-326; + shopping done by, 328; + drinking habits of, 328; + names of, 332; + on railroads, 387; + tales of, 341. + + Stage-lists, 273. + + Stage-men's Ball, 336. + + Stage-wagons, in England, 251, 255; + out of Boston, 261; + in Pennsylvania, 262, 268. + + Stamp Act, 37. + + Stark, General, victory of, 205. + + State House Inn, Philadelphia, 55. + + Stavers Coaching Line, 278 _et seq._ + + Stavers Inn, 175-178, 278-279. + + Stickney Tavern, sign-board of, 203. + + St. John's Lodge, 204. + + Stocks, use of, 8, 215. + + "Stogies," 245-246. + + Stone wall, 130. + + Stow, quoted, 253. + + Stratford, Conn., milestone at, 353. + + Stratton, Arad, tavern of, 151. + + Streets, naming of, 138. + + Strong waters, selling prohibited, 4. + + Struggling Man, 161-162. + + Stuart, Gilbert, sign-board by, 145. + + Stuyvesant, Governor, laws of, 34. + + Sudbury, Mass., tavern at, 43, 180, 371. + + Suicides, burial of, 344. + + Sumner, Charles, quoted, 369. + + Sun-line house, 46. + + Suspension Bridge, 230. + + Swift, Dean, quoted, 132, 266. + + "Swiftnicks," 398. + + Switchel, 132. + + Sykes Coffee-house, 300. + + Sykes, Reuben, 293 _et seq._, 300. + + + Talleyrand, at tavern, 181. + + Tally, forbidden, 5. + + Tally-ho, use of word, 266. + + Tap-houses, New York, 34-35. + + Taproom rhymes, 45. + + Taprooms, 19, 42 _et seq._ + + Tar-bucket. _See_ Tar-lodel. + + Tar-lodel, 246-247. + + Tarleton Arms, 310. + + Tarleton Inn, story of, 309-310; + sign-board of, 310, 312. + + Tarleton, Wm., 309-310. + + Tavern behind Nazareth, 57. + + Taverns, use of word, 30; + in Southern colonies, 30 _et seq._; + establishment of laws about, 31, 34-35; + prices at, 31, 42, 118, 177-178; + names of rooms in, 17; + in New Netherlands, 33 _et seq._; + names of, 35; + as war rendezvous, 172; + as auction rooms, 197; + as business exchanges, 198; + as insurance offices, 198; + as jails, 212, 303; + on Albany Turnpike, 235; + in Scotland, 283. + Also see names of Towns and Ordinaries. + + Taylor, M. M., milestone of, 351; + tavern of, 352. + + Taylor, the Water Poet, quoted, 255. + + Taylorsville, Penn., bridge sign-board at, 239. + + Teamsters, 249. + + Thackeray, W. M., cited, 322. + + Thief Detecting Societies, 393. + + Thieves, band of, 388 _et seq._ + + Thomas' Exchange Coffee-house, 300. + + Thorburn, Grant, quoted, 72-73, 362-363. + + Three Broiled Chickens, 183. + + Three Crowns, Lancaster, Penn., 143-144. + + Three Jolly Sailors, 158. + + Three Loggerheads, 142. + + Throat-lashing, 327. + + Tipping, 326. + + Tippling-houses, 31. + + Tithing-man, duties of, 9. + + Tobacco, restrictions on use of, 12-13; + as payment, 31; + drawers for, 45. + + Toby Fillpots, 134. + + Todd, Margaret, 40. + + Todd, Robert, 39-40. + + Toddy, derivation of word, 39-40; + made of rum, 104; + price of, 178. + + Toddy-stick, description of, 114. + + Toll-boards, 237, 238. + + Toll-gates, on Mohawk Turnpike, 237. + + Tolls, rates of 237-238; + commuted, 298. + + Tontine Association, 37. + + Topsfield Bridge, 356. + + "Towelling," 327. + + Transportation, by water, 241; + on horse-back, 241 _et seq._ + + Travelling-bags, 331. + + Trenton, N. J., tavern fare at, 83, 84; + bridge at, 230. + + Trout, boiled, 89. + + Troy coaches, 269. + + Trunks, old time, 330. + + Tryer, on punch, 114. + + "Tuck-a-nuck," 317. + + Tufts, Henry, story of, 375 _et seq._ + + Turkey-shoot, 207-209. + + Turnpikes, 231 _et seq._, 297 _et seq._; + in Scotland, 284, 297; + profits on, 297; + desertion of, 297. + + Turnspit dogs, 55-56. + + Turtle, as gifts, 90. + + Turtle-feasts, 90. + + Tuttle, Sarah, love-making of, 216-217. + + Twining, Thomas, quoted, 263, 326, 367. + + Twist, slang term, 142. + + Twitchell, Ginery, career of, 301 _et seq._; + coach of, 303; + description of, 304; + makes election returns, 304; + obtains mail contracts, 305. + + Tyler, Royall, 207. + + + Union Place Hotel, New York, fare at, 88. + + + Vardy, Luke, 204. + + Veazie Road, 286. + + Vendues, at coffee-houses, 49, 197; + at taverns, 219; + of thieves, 220; + of paupers, 221 _et seq._ + + Victuallyng-house, 2. + + Virginia, ordinaries in, 30 _et seq._; + metheglin in, 125. + + + Wadsworth Inn, Springfield, 43-44. + + Wagons, going to Ohio, 235 _et seq._; + in England, 250; + rates on, 271; + in New England, 312-315. + + Walker's Tavern, 154, 162. + + Wall decorations, 42. + + Walnut tree chips, beer from, 123. + + Walpole, N. H., literary life in, 205-207. + + Wanmanitt, trial of, 341. + + Wardwell, John, stage-coach line of, 260-261. + + Wardwell, Lydia, whipped, 217. + + Warning out of town, 4. + + Warren, General, at tavern, 181. + + Warwick, R. I., stocks at, 215; + chariot at, 258-259. + + Washington bowers, 156. + + Washington Crossing the Delaware, 149. + + Washington, George, at Boston, 84; + farewell to army, 184; + at taverns, 195, 293, 300-301; + news of death, 278. + + Washington Tavern, Lancaster, Penn., 73; + Philadelphia, Penn., 149, 154; + Westfield, Mass., 42; + Holmesburgh, Penn., 148-149; + Wilbraham, Mass., 196. + + Washingtonian Reform, 127. + + Watch. _See_ Night-watch. + + Water, travel by, 241. + + Water-cider, 130. + + Watering-troughs, 354-356. + + Waterloo Tavern, Lancaster, Penn., 143-144. + + Watson, quoted, 147, 256. + + Wayside Inn, 43, 180, 292, 371. + + Webster, Daniel, cited, 182; + at taverns, 195-196. + + Weddings, at ordinary, 5. + + Weed, Thurlow, quoted, 79. + + Weld, quoted, 257, 367. + + Weller, Tony, quoted, 290. + + Wells' Tavern, sign-board of, 382. + + West, Benjamin, sign-boards by, 143 _et seq._ + + Westborough, Mass., tavern at, 136. + + West Boston Bridge, 230. + + Westfield, Mass., tavern at, 42. + + Whig Tavern, 205. + + Whip, of Conestoga teamsters, 248; + of stage-drivers, 334. + + Whipping-post, 215-216. + + Whirlicote, 253. + + Whiskey, described, 258. + + Whistle-belly-vengeance, 132. + + White, Captain, keeps ordinary, 3. + + White, George, exploits of, 390 _et seq._ + + Whitestown mail stages, 236. + + Whittier, quoted, 188. + + Wickford, R. I., tavern at, 45. + + Wilder, Joseph, cider of, 128. + + Willet, Edward, 35. + + Williams, Roger, quoted, 128. + + Williams Tavern, sign-board of, 152-153. + + Wilson, Richard, sign-board by, 142. + + Wines, in Virginia, 32; + prices of, 88-89. + + Winn, John, home of, 182 _et seq._ + + Winn, Joseph, in Revolution, 183. + + Winne, the penny-post, bravery of, 399-400. + + Winter, coach travel in, 362 _et seq._ + + Winthrop, John, on a disturbance in Boston, 10-11; + on health-drinking, 15; + quoted, 115; + pick-a-back, 224. + + Winthrop, John, Jr., owns a coach, 256; + sends letters, 274. + + Wolcott, Governor, apples planted by, 125. + + Wolcott, Oliver, at tavern, 186. + + Wolfe, General, sign-board of, 145, 211. + + Wolfe Tavern, Brooklyn, Conn., 145; + Boston, Mass., 145; + Newburyport, Mass., 145; + sign-board of, 211; + bill of, 177. + + Wolf-rout, 210. + + Women, as tavern-keepers, 20, 40; + burned at stake, 218; + on horse-back, 226; + in stage-coaches, 369; + as highway robbers, 408; + hanged in Boston, 408. + + Woodbury, Bartholomew, 351. + + Woodbury Tavern, milestone at, 351. + + Woodman Tavern, 155. + + Woodside, sign-boards by, 148. + + Woodward, James, punished, 8, 215. + + Worcester, Mass., singing at, 173; + milestone in, 350-351. + + Wright, Robert, punished, 8. + + Wright Tavern, 179. + + + Yale College, cider at, 126. + + Yard of Flannel, 111. + + Yellow Cat, 163. + + Yellow Cottage, 155-157. + + York, Me., sign-board at, 172; + road at, 224. + + York County, Penn., tavern rates in, 105. + + + Zinzendorf, Count, night-watch rhymes of, 59 _et seq._ + + + + +HOME LIFE IN COLONIAL DAYS + +By ALICE MORSE EARLE + +Illustrated by photographs, gathered by the author, of real things, works, +and happenings of the olden times + + Crown 8vo. Cloth. Gilt top. $2.50 + +The Mail and Express: + +"The volume is unique; nothing quite like it has ever been attempted +before. The result is a valuable as well as an entertaining work. It is +full of information, much of it curious, and all of importance to one who +desires to know how his forefathers lived." + +The Dial: + +"The work is mainly and essentially an antiquarian account of the tools, +implements, and utensils, as well as the processes of colonial domestic +industry; and it is full enough to serve as a moderate encyclopaedia in +that kind.... This useful and attractive book, with its profuse and +interesting pictures, its fair typography, and its quaint binding, +imitative of an old-time sampler, should prove a favorite." + +Education: + +"Mrs. Earle has made a very careful study of the details of domestic life +from the earliest days of the settlement of the country. The book is +sumptuously illustrated, and every famed article, such as the +spinning-wheel, the foot-stone, the brass knocker on the door, and the +old-time cider mill, is here presented to the eye, and faithfully pictured +in words. The volume is a fascinating one, and the vast army of admirers +and students of the olden days will be grateful to the author for +gathering together and putting into permanent form so much accurate +information concerning the homes of our ancestors." + +Literature: + +"Mrs. Earle's fidelity in study and her patient research are evident on +every page of this charming book, and her pleasantly colloquial style is +frequently assisted by very beautiful illustrations, both of the houses of +the colonists, from the primitive cave dug-out of the hillside and made to +answer for warmth and shelter, to the more comfortable log cabin, the +farmstead with its adjacent buildings, and the stately mansion abiding to +our own day." + + +CHILD LIFE IN COLONIAL DAYS + +By ALICE MORSE EARLE + +_Profusely Illustrated_ + + Crown 8vo. Cloth. Gilt top. $2.50 + +Commercial Advertiser: + +"Once more Mrs. Earle has drawn on her apparently inexhaustible store of +colonial lore, and has produced another interesting book of the olden +days.... Mrs. Earle's interesting style, the accuracy of her statements, +and the attractive illustrations she always supplies for her books make +the volume one to be highly prized." + +Buffalo Express: + +"Mrs. Alice Morse Earle performs a real historical service, and writes an +interesting book. It is not a compilation from, or condensation of, +previous books, but the fruit of personal and original investigation into +the conditions of life in the American colonies." + +American Hebrew: + +"Alice Morse Earle has written much to place us in intimate knowledge with +the life of old America. The most charming volume of all, however, is her +latest, 'Child Life in Colonial Days.'" + + + THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Passages in italics are indicated by _italics_. + +Superscripted characters are indicated by {superscript}. + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Stage-coach and Tavern Days, by Alice Morse Earle + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STAGE-COACH AND TAVERN DAYS *** + +***** This file should be named 37272.txt or 37272.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/2/7/37272/ + +Produced by Bryan Ness and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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