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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Advanced Toy Making for Schools, by David M.
+Mitchell
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Advanced Toy Making for Schools
+
+
+Author: David M. Mitchell
+
+
+
+Release Date: July 22, 2011  [eBook #36815]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVANCED TOY MAKING FOR SCHOOLS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Chris Curnow and the Online Distributed Proofreading
+Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by
+Internet Archive (http://www.archive.org)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 36815-h.htm or 36815-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/36815/36815-h/36815-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/36815/36815-h.zip)
+
+
+      Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive. See
+      http://www.archive.org/details/advancedtoymakin00mitc
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+      Text enclosed by "pound" or "number" signs is in bold
+      face (#bold#).
+
+
+
+
+
+ADVANCED TOY MAKING FOR SCHOOLS
+
+by
+
+DAVID M. MITCHELL
+
+Instructor Manual Arts
+Willson Junior High School, Cleveland, Ohio
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Manual Arts Press
+Peoria, Illinois
+
+Copyright 1922
+David M. Mitchell
+12 B 22
+
+Printed in United States of America
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+Toys are today regarded as educational factors in the life of boys and
+girls. New toys come into demand at frequent intervals in the growth and
+mental development of the child. On account of the unfailing interest on
+the part of the pupils in toys and because of the unlimited educational
+possibilities contained in toy making, this work is rightfully taking an
+increasingly important place in the manual arts program in the schools.
+
+This book is the outgrowth of toy-making problems given to junior-high
+and high-school pupils. The author claims no originality for some of the
+toys. However, most of them have been originated or improved upon in the
+author's classes.
+
+While it is entirely satisfactory to have any of the toys mentioned in
+this book made as individual projects, they are here offered as suitable
+group projects or production projects, and it is hoped that the
+suggested form of shop organization for production work as treated in
+Part I is flexible enough so that the plan can be applied to most any
+shop conditions.
+
+The drawings of toys in Part II will suggest a variety of articles which
+may be used in carrying out the production work.
+
+Of course, the success of organizing and conducting classes for this
+kind of work depends largely upon the instructor. He must know
+definitely what he is trying to get done. He must adopt and pursue such
+methods of dealing with both the members of the class and the material
+as will contribute directly towards the desired end.
+
+Toy making carried on by the so-called productive plan, if handled
+properly, will bring out many of the essentials of an organization
+typical of the commercial industries. Together with its educational
+possibilities and its power to attract the attention of those engaged in
+this activity, toy making will rightfully take its place alongside other
+important subjects offered in a complete industrial arts course.
+
+The author wishes to acknowledge his indebtedness to William E.
+Roberts, supervisor of manual training, Cleveland Public Schools, for
+valuable suggestions and inspiration; to Joseph A. Shelley, Jersey City,
+N. J., for suggestions on finishing kiddie car wheels; to the Eclipse
+Air Brush Company, Newark, N. J., for valuable information and
+photographs of air brush equipment; and to the American Wood Working
+Machinery Co., for the use of the illustrations showing the operation of
+the turning lathe, universal saw, and other woodworking machines.
+
+                                                        D. M. MITCHELL
+
+Cleveland, Ohio, 1921.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+PART I
+
+OPERATIONS IN TOY MAKING
+
+  CHAPTER I. PRODUCTIVE WORK                                        11
+
+    1. Suggested plan for shop organization. 2. Grouping
+    of students. 3. The time clerk and tool-room clerk.
+    4. Recording attendance. 5. Time cards. 6. Using time
+    card. 7. Grading students. 8. Preliminary discussion and
+    preparation for shopwork. 9. Bazaars, toy sales, etc.
+
+  CHAPTER II. COLORING TOYS                                         21
+
+    10. Sanitation emphasized. 11. Preparation of surfaces.
+    12. Application of water colors. 13. Analine water stains.
+    14. Formulas for analine water stains. 15. Oil stains.
+    16. Shellacking. 17. Varnishing. 18. Points on Varnishing.
+    19. Colored varnish. 20. Another suggestion for finishing.
+    21. Use of paint. 22. Ingredients of good paint.
+    23. Application of paint. 24. Preparation of surface.
+    25. Tinting materials. 26. Mixing paints. 27. Paint formulas.
+    28. Formulas for making tinted paint. 29. Enameling.
+    30. The dipping method. 31. Polishing by tumbling. 32. Care of
+    brushes. 33. Paint application by means of compressed air.
+    34. Uses of pneumatic sprayers. 35. Construction of pneumatic
+    painting outfit. 36. Special attachments for different surfaces.
+    37. Cleaning pneumatic machines. 38. Directions for cleaning
+    machine. 39. Directions for operating pneumatic equipment.
+    40. Preparing colors.
+
+  CHAPTER III. COMMON WOODS USED IN TOY MAKING                      42
+
+    41. Economy in selecting material. 42. Qualities of
+    different woods used.
+
+  CHAPTER IV. USE OF JIGS AND FIXTURES                              43
+
+    43. Value of jigs and fixtures. 44. Cutting small wheels.
+    45. Turning wheels. 46. Use of wheel cutter. 47. Use of
+    coping saw. 48. Cutting sharp corners. 49. Removing the
+    saw-blade from frame. 50. Making heavy wheels. 51. Designs
+    for wheels. 52. Cutting wheels on band-saw. 53. Boring
+    holes in wheels.
+
+  CHAPTER V. OPERATION OF WOODWORKING MACHINES                      54
+
+    54. Importance of machine operations. 55. Operating the
+    lathe. 56. Face plate turning. 57. The universal saw.
+    58. The hand jointer. 59. The sander.
+
+
+PART II
+
+DRAWINGS FOR TOYS
+
+                                                                  PAGE
+  Plate  1. Fox and Geese Game                                      64
+    "    2. Ring Toss                                               65
+    "    3. Baby's Cart                                             66
+    "    4. Hay Cart                                                67
+    "    5. Horse Head                                              68
+    "    6. Horse on Wheels                                         69
+    "    7. Kido Kar Trailer                                        70
+    "    8. Auto Roadster                                           71
+    "    9. Auto Racer                                              72
+    "   10. Passenger Car                                           73
+    "   11. Milk Wagon                                              74
+    "   12. Table for Doll House                                    75
+    "   13. Chair and Rocker                                        76
+    "   14. Buffet                                                  77
+    "   15. Toy Wheel-Barrow                                        78
+    "   16. Horse Barrow                                            79
+    "   17. Doll's Carriage                                         80
+    "   18. Noah's Ark                                              81
+    "   19. "Bean Bag" Game Board                                   82
+    "   20. Child's Swing No. 1                                     83
+    "   21. Child's Swing No. 2                                     84
+    "   22. Doll's Bed, No. 1                                       85
+    "   23. Doll's Bed, No. 2                                       86
+    "   24. Adjustable Stilts                                       87
+    "   25. Scooter                                                 88
+    "   26. Steering Coaster                                        89
+    "   27. Kido Kar                                                90
+    "   28. Kid Kar Junior                                          91
+    "   29. Pony Kar                                                92
+    "   30. Duplex Speedster                                        93
+    "   31. Rock-a-Doodle                                           94
+    "   32. Sled                                                    95
+    "   33. "Sturdy Flyer" Sled                                     96
+    "   34. Ducky Loo                                               97
+    "   35. Duck Rocker                                             98
+    "   36. Jitney                                                  99
+    "   37. Junior Roadster                                        100
+    "   38. Details of Junior Roadster                             101
+    "   39. Senior Coaster                                         102
+    "   40. Details of Senior Coaster                              103
+    "   41. Auto-Kar                                               104
+    "   42. Choo-Choo-Kar                                          105
+    "   43. Teeter-Totter                                          106
+    "   44. Teeter Rocker                                          107
+    "   45. Checker Board                                          108
+    "   46. Child's Costumer                                       109
+    "   47. Baby's Chair                                           110
+    "   48. Children's Sand Box                                    111
+    "   49. Sand Box No. 2                                         112
+    "   50. Doll's House No. 1                                     113
+    "   51. Doll's House No. 2                                     114
+    "   52. Doll's House No. 2                                     115
+    "   53. Dumb Bell & Indian Club                                116
+    "   54. Bats                                                   117
+
+
+
+
+SUGGESTIONS TO TEACHERS
+
+
+Where the work is to be done on the so-called productive basis, it is of
+utmost importance that, before starting, the classes should be so
+organized as to allow the work to be carried on in the most efficient,
+progressive manner. The form of shop organization suggested in this book
+is recommended. However, the instructor may, particularly if he has had
+good practical shop experience, employ other methods of organization
+that are just as good and possibly even better for his particular class
+and the conditions under which he has to work.
+
+It is also of great importance that the instructor should acquaint
+himself with the processes involved in the making of each toy before
+allowing the class to begin it. This may be accomplished by the making
+of a sample of the contemplated project, carefully analyzing its
+different parts and arranging the operations in a logical sequence.
+This phase of the work may be done during class discussions and
+demonstrations at which time the different jigs and fixtures needed for
+progressive production may also be developed.
+
+The different methods of coloring toys have been suggested with the hope
+that the student will gain a realization of the importance of finishing,
+from both the artistic and the practical point of view. The application
+of paint by means of compressed air is the latest development in the
+coloring of toys, and an equipment in the school shop illustrating the
+principles of compressed air as applied to productive finishing of toys,
+is a step forward in making school shops function as they should.
+
+The working drawings in this book should serve as suggestions. They have
+been so constructed as to be free from unnecessary technicalities, and
+to leave as much opportunity as possible for the exercise and
+development of the student's judgment.
+
+It will be found that toy making offers itself readily to the desired
+co-operation and correlation with other departments in the school. For
+instance, the art department may aid with the designing and color scheme
+to be used on toys; the general metal shop may help in the making of
+necessary metal parts: the mechanical drawing department can co-operate
+in the making of working drawings; the mathematics department can figure
+the costs of production, etc., etc.
+
+It is hoped that the purpose of this book is not merely to set forth a
+few plans and drawings for the construction of toys, but to give the
+work the broadest possible application; creating a constructive
+influence on the minds of the students, in which case it will also act
+as a means of bringing into closer relationship their life outside of
+school with the work in school.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: TOY MAKING ON A PRODUCTIVE BASIS EMPLOYING FACTORY METHODS]
+
+
+
+
+PART I
+
+OPERATIONS IN TOY MAKING
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+PRODUCTIVE WORK
+
+
+#1. Suggested Plan for Shop Organization.#--While it is entirely
+satisfactory to have any of the toys mentioned in this book made as
+individual projects, they are here offered as suitable group projects or
+production projects. Production work may be defined as work done by a
+class to turn out a number of similar projects that have a marketable
+value, with the aid of jigs, fixtures, and other means of duplication,
+illustrating the industrial or practical application to the tasks in
+hand, Figs. 1, 2, and 3. This does not mean, however, that the school
+shops be transformed into a factory in the full sense of the word. It
+should differ from a factory in that the education of the student is the
+major part of the product, while in the factory production is the
+foremost aim.
+
+In doing work by the productive plan two important problems will present
+themselves at the outset; first, the time element; and second,
+industrial or practical application to the tasks in hand.
+
+A brief explanation of the plan of organization in one of the author's
+classes will attempt to show how nearly these problems can be solved.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1. Material for toys, prepared on a large scale]
+
+#2. Grouping of Students.#--Classes are divided into groups of between
+four and six boys, with a boy foreman appointed at the head of each
+group. The foreman is held responsible for the work turned out by his
+boys. He is to see that they understand just what is to be done and how
+it is to be done. All the group foremen are directly responsible to the
+general foreman who in turn is responsible to the instructor. The
+general foreman is to act as an inspector of finished work after it has
+received the group foreman's O.K. He is also held responsible for the
+condition of the shop during his class hour. This includes looking after
+all material, the manner in which stock is put away after class, and
+adherence to all shop rules that have been adopted to help in the
+efficiency of shop procedure.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 2. A large order of toys partly constructed]
+
+#3. The Time Clerk and Tool-Room Clerk.#--A "_Time Clerk_" is appointed
+to take charge of the time cards. He is also held responsible for all
+the clerical work that is to be done in the shop.
+
+A _Tool-Room Clerk_ is appointed to take charge of the shop tool room.
+He is to keep check of all tools given out and taken in. His spare time
+should be devoted to the care of tools.
+
+If possible, each boy in the class should be given an opportunity to act
+in each capacity that has been created, so that he may get the most
+varied experience in shop procedure. This will necessitate the changing
+of boys from one group to another; the changing of foremen, clerks,
+etc., at intervals which will of course be governed by the size of the
+class and the number of hours devoted to the work.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3. Milk wagons completed by the production method]
+
+#4. Recording Attendance.#--Boys, upon entering the shop, register their
+presence at the Time-Card Rack, Fig. 4. This is done by turning the time
+card shown in Fig. 5, so that the back side, which has the word present
+printed at top, is exposed. The time clerk then inspects the cards and
+notes those that have not been turned, and records the absences. He then
+fills in the date and passes the cards out to the boys in the shop.
+Toward the latter part of the period, a few minutes time is given the
+boys to fill in the necessary data on the time card.
+
+The time cards are then collected by the time clerk and put into a box
+where the time cards of all the classes are kept. In the meantime the
+time clerk puts back into the time rack the cards of the incoming class.
+This duty is performed by the time clerks of all the classes, thereby
+necessitating the use of only one time card rack.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4. The time-card rack.]
+
+#5. Time Cards.#--Referring to the time card mentioned in Fig. 5 it will
+be seen that the workman's shop number is filled in at the top. Then
+under the heading of "Woodworking Department" are two horizontal rows of
+items which need very little explanation. Following are three columns
+headed "Operation," "Assignment," and "Time." Below the word "Operation"
+are set down the various operations undertaken in the woodworking
+department, with several vacant spaces provided where other and special
+operations can be filled in. It will also be noticed that "Operations"
+are divided into two kinds, machine work and bench work. The
+instructor's glance at the time card will tell him at once what phase of
+the work the boy has been employed in and will help him in apportioning
+the work so that the boy is offered a varied experience.
+
+#6. Using Time Card.#--For shops that are not equipped with the kind of
+machines marked on the illustrated card, it would be well to omit the
+names of machines in the "operation" column. The instructor may then
+fill in the operation whatever it may be.
+
+Under the heading "Assignment" and against the operation which is to be
+undertaken by the student, the instructor writes in the name of the part
+to be made. This is the student's assignment and it should be read by
+him at the time he records his presence at the time-card rack upon
+entering the shop.
+
+In making assignments, the instructor may find it rather difficult to
+keep up with large classes of boys. This difficulty may be overcome by
+making an assignment to an entire group instead of to each boy. For
+example, in a class of twenty-five that would probably be divided into
+five groups, the instructor may make the assignment to the foreman of
+each group and each foreman in turn can inform the boys of his group as
+to the nature of the assignment. The boys can then enter the assignment
+on their time cards at the end of the period when the time spent on the
+job at hand is also recorded.
+
+The student's shop number, name, and grade should be filled in by the
+time clerk who can get out a number of cards for each student in advance
+and these are kept ready for use by the instructor. The instructor can
+then mark the project and the job number together with the student's
+assignment. At the same time he estimates the journeyman's time and rate
+and enters them in the space provided.
+
+The time card in Fig. 5, is 3½ inches by 9 inches, made of three-ply
+bristol board. All worker's cards are printed on white colored bristol
+while those of the foremen are of blue colored bristol. This plan is for
+the instructor's convenience to be able to pick out the foremen's time
+cards at a glance.
+
+In the triple column under the heading "TIME" is provided room for the
+date and spaces in which the student can write the time in minutes spent
+on the various operations on that date. The triple columns on each side
+of the card allow of the cards being used for six days. If a job lasts
+longer than six days another card should be used marking them No. 1 and
+No. 2, respectively, in the space marked "Card No." Both cards should be
+fastened and kept together.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5. Time card]
+
+Effort should always be made to have all the assignments short (less
+than six days) so that the student's record may be computed at the end
+of each week by the time clerk.
+
+#7. Grading Students.#--The next four spaces contain in condensed form,
+the information itemized in other parts of the card. This, together with
+other information set down by the instructor, is the vital material
+sought for.
+
+The item A "Journeyman's Time" is very easily recorded by the
+instructor. It is arrived at in the same way as in making out the
+estimate for any piece of work and can be recorded almost at once. The
+main purpose here is to set for the student a standard of time on which
+to work.
+
+The item B is the rate in points per hour, based on the journeyman's
+time.
+
+The item C is the total of the student's time added together from the
+various spaces under "Time."
+
+Item D "Quality Decimal" is the quality of the student's job expressed
+in the form of a decimal, with 100% as the maximum. This mark should be
+filled in by the instructor when the student completes his job.
+
+The next item, the number of points the student earns is found by the
+formula Points = (A×B)D
+
+  Points earned per hour = ((A×B)D)/C
+
+For example, a student receives an assignment to cut to thickness,
+width, and length, sixty chair legs. The size of the legs he is to get
+from the job blueprint. He spends 60 minutes a day, for three days,
+making a total of 180 minutes or 3 hours. The time it would take a
+journeyman to do the same job is estimated at 2 hours. The rate
+adopted is at 80 points per hour; the journeyman therefore earns
+A×B = 2×80 = 160 Points. The quality of the student's job is graded by
+the instructor as 75%. The number of points the student earns is found
+by the formula Points = (A×B)D = (2×80).75 = 120 Points. To find the
+number of points the student earns per hour, divide 120 points by the
+number of hours it took the student to complete the job, which equals
+120÷3 = 40, the number of points the student earns per hour. However,
+if the student would be graded 100%, he would earn the same number of
+points as the journeyman. But of course, he would have done it in three
+hours where the journeyman has earned the same number of points in two
+hours. It will readily be seen that this scheme offers the student an
+everlasting incentive to equal the journeyman's record.
+
+Having obtained the points on the time card or assignment card as it may
+be called, these are then transferred to a monthly accomplishment sheet
+as shown in Fig. 6, which is provided for all the students in all
+classes.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 6. Monthly accomplishment sheet]
+
+The total number of points for each boy, group, and class can then be
+easily obtained. These totals can be put up in poster form and hung on
+the shop's bulletin board, showing the standing of each boy, group, and
+class. It is surprising the amount of interest and competition that can
+be aroused; everyone working for the highest honors, unconsciously, with
+a competitive spirit that will bring out considerable thought and effort
+to the matter of handling material for maximum production.
+
+#8. Preliminary Discussion and Preparation for Shopwork.#--Of course, no
+time card or assignment-record scheme can hope entirely to eliminate the
+necessary preliminary discussions and preparation. The author has found
+it of material help to meet the foremen of all the classes at hours
+other than their regular class hour and discuss such topics as "Securing
+Cooperation," "Instructing Workers," "Maintaining Cleanliness and
+Order," "Records and Reports," "Inspecting Work," "Routing Material Thru
+Shop," "Care of Stock," etc.
+
+Details regarding construction and assembling should be worked out by
+the instructor beforehand, and also developed with the class as the work
+progresses. Care should be taken that plans are carefully made regarding
+the storage of stock and unfinished parts.
+
+The old saying, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," is an
+old one, but a good one.
+
+#9. Bazaars, Toy Sales, Etc.#--The plan of selling toys, that are made
+in the school shop, to the boys and girls of the school is a plausible
+one. It can very easily be accomplished in the form of bazaars,
+exhibitions, or school toy sales.
+
+The writer has had a number of samples of different toys made and put on
+exhibition, and orders taken, requiring a deposit on each order. These
+were then turned in to the shop department and the toys made on the
+productive plan.
+
+The boys in the shop would receive school checks, Fig. 7, for the total
+number of points that they earned for the semester. These checks could
+then be used by them towards the purchasing of any of the toys that were
+put on sale; a certain number of points required for the purchase of
+different toys.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7. Credit check, based on number of points carved]
+
+This plan was made possible by adding on to the number of orders
+received an additional number equal to the number of boys in the shop.
+For example, twenty-four orders for toy milk wagons were received by a
+class of twenty-four boys. Then instead of making twenty-four toy milk
+wagons we doubled the number and made forty-eight of them. The price
+that was figured on for the twenty-four orders would more than cover the
+cost of material for the other twenty-four articles that the boys would
+be able to buy with their earned checks.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+COLORING TOYS
+
+
+#10. Sanitation Emphasized.#--All application of color to toys should
+carry with it a realization that toys are meant primarily for children
+and that all paints should therefore be free from poisonous compounds.
+
+All paints used should be of good quality so that it will not come off
+easily to discolor the hands or tongues of children who cannot resist
+the temptation of sticking everything possible into their mouths.
+
+#11. Preparation of Surfaces.#--Wooden toys may be finished quite bright
+and in various colors.
+
+Before applying the color it is absolutely necessary that every part of
+the toy has been thoroly sanded. Where sanding is done by machine, care
+should be taken not to sand the wood too much. Many difficulties may
+arise from too much as well as from too little sanding. In hand sanding,
+the use of a block 2½" × 3½", to which is glued a piece of cork,
+is recommended.
+
+#12. Application of Water Colors.#--Toys may be colored by the use of
+different materials and by various methods. Kalsomine colors, opaque
+water colors, variously known as show card colors, liquid tempera, and
+letterine,--all come under the heading of water colors. All but the
+kalsomine may be obtained in small jars and ready for use. Kalsomine
+colors come in powder form in various colors and may easily be prepared
+by mixing with water and a little glue to bind the parts together. They
+are much cheaper than the ordinary forms of transparent and opaque water
+colors. They may be applied with the ordinary water color brushes.
+
+After a coat of water color has been applied to the toy, it may be
+necessary to remove the rough parts with very fine sand paper. Care
+should be taken not to "cut thru" when sanding.
+
+To preserve and protect the water color on the toy a coat of white
+shellac may be applied. If a more durable finish is desired a coat of
+good clear varnish over the shellac will serve the purpose.
+
+#13. Analine Water Stains.#--For general finishing of toys analine water
+stains will produce excellent results. They are known for their ability
+to penetrate the wood deeply and the ease with which any shade can be
+produced. Water stain raises the grain of the wood more than any other.
+This makes it necessary to sandpaper down the raised grain until smooth
+and then proceed with the shellacking and varnishing until the desired
+results are obtained.
+
+In preparing analine water stains, only analines that are soluble in
+water are used. Place an ounce of the analine to a quart of hot or
+boiling water, pouring the water over the dye-stuff and stirring
+meanwhile with a wooden paddle or stick. Soft water is the best. In
+about an hour the dye may be filtered thru a piece of fine woven cloth.
+As metal is apt to discolor the dye, it is better to use a glass
+container. If the prepared solution is too strong it may be diluted in
+more water. Use hot water for diluting the stain.
+
+The work with water stain must be done quickly in order to obtain a
+uniform coloring on the surface. Water stains are used a great deal
+where the dipping process is employed in the finishing of toys. A hot
+dipping stain is preferable to a cold dipping stain, first, because it
+penetrates more readily and second, because it dries quicker.
+
+#14. Formulas for Analine Water Stains.#--(Stock Solutions).
+
+_Red_: Rose benzol five parts, water ten parts.
+
+_Rose Red_: Dissolve 3 oz. Rose Bengal in 5 pints of water.
+
+_Blue_: (a) Dissolve 1 oz. of the best indigo carmine in 8 oz. of
+water. (b) Prussian blue dissolved in water.
+
+_Dark Blue_: Dissolve 3 oz. Bengal blue in 3½ pints of boiling water,
+and stir and filter the fluid in ten minutes time.
+
+_Green_: Mix Prussian blue and raw sienna in such proportions as will
+give the desired color. Mix in water.
+
+_Brown_: Dissolve 3 oz. of Bismark brown in ½ gal. of water.
+
+_Yellow_: Auramine 4 parts, sulphate of soda 10 parts, mixed in water.
+
+_Black_: Nigrosine black, four ounces, dissolved in one gallon of
+boiling water.
+
+When wanted for use, these analines may be diluted with water. The rule
+is, an ounce of analine to the gallon of water to form a working stain.
+Or to a pint of the stock solution, as it is called, you may add three
+pints of water.
+
+#15. Oil Stains.#--It will be found that quicker work can be done with
+oil stain than with water colors. For that reason, oil stains are also
+used a great deal as a dipping stain. In preparing oil stains, the best
+mineral or earth pigments to dissolve with turpentine are Van Dyke
+brown, chrome green, burnt and raw sienna, and lamp black.
+
+#16. Shellacking.#--There are two kinds of shellac, orange and white.
+The white shellac is orange shellac that has been bleached. The purpose
+of shellac as commonly understood is to give a quick coat over the
+stain. The thin coat formed serves as a protector for the stain and also
+as an undercoater for the following coat of varnish. In this way at
+least one coat of varnish is eliminated and a great deal of time saved
+because the shellac dries within a few minutes. To thin shellac use
+denatured alcohol.
+
+On cheaper toys a coat of shellac only may be used as a covering for the
+color stain. If orange shellac is used it will be found that it effects
+the color of the stain used. White shellac also produces a slight change
+in color and for this reason many working with toys will use a good
+clear varnish instead.
+
+#17. Varnishing.#--Two or three coats of varnish will produce a very
+durable finish. The first coat of varnish ought not be quite as heavy as
+the succeeding coats. If the varnish is of extra heavy body it should be
+reduced slightly for the first coat. The best varnish reducer is thin
+varnish. To prepare this reducer, take one part varnish (the same
+varnish to be reduced), and two parts of turpentine. Shake these
+together well and let stand twenty-four hours before using. This will
+reduce the consistency of the varnish without tearing down the body as
+pure turpentine would. The first coat of varnish should be allowed to
+dry thoroly before the second coat is applied.
+
+Oil varnishes made from good hard gums, pure linseed oil, and
+turpentine, are the most valuable. In using turpentine to thin varnish
+care should be taken that adulterated turpentine is not used. To play
+the game safe it is advisable to use a little benzine, for it will not
+injure the varnish, but will evaporate entirely, and not flatten the
+varnish as turpentine does.
+
+#18. Points on Varnishing.#--(1) The less varnish is worked under the
+brush the better its luster. (2) Use clean brush and pot, and clean
+varnish. See that the surface is clean before beginning to varnish. (3)
+Allow a coat of varnish plenty of time for drying until it becomes hard.
+
+#19. Colored Varnish.#--Colored varnish is that in which a proportion of
+varnish is added to the pigment and thinned. The base is usually an
+earth color such as ochre, sienna, venitian red, Van Dyke brown, umber,
+lamp black, etc.
+
+With this the work can be done in one coat. This method of finishing is
+usually employed on the cheaper class of toys where it isn't advisable
+to apply an expensive finish.
+
+#20. Another Suggestion for Finishing.#--Tint a gallon of benzine or
+gasoline with chrome green, chrome yellow, and vermilion, ground in
+Japan until the desired shade is obtained. This formulae is especially
+good for dipping purposes.
+
+#21. Use of Paint.#--Although paint can be bought ready prepared and in
+any color, as has been stated, it is advisable to have the students mix
+their own colors and choose their own color scheme.
+
+#22. Ingredients of good Paint.#--The best paints are usually made by
+mixing together white lead, linseed oil, pigment of the desired color
+(colors ground in oil), and a drier.
+
+While white lead is sufficient as the pigment for white paint, a better
+result is obtained by mixing zinc oxide with the white lead. These two
+substances have the convenient property of balancing each other's
+disadvantages. For instance, zinc oxide has a tendency to crack and to
+peal, which is overcome by the tougher coating formed by the white lead.
+Again, when white lead is exposed to light and weathering, it becomes
+chalky, which fault is remedied by the property possessed by zinc oxide,
+of remaining hard.
+
+The linseed oil used is obtained from flaxseed by pressing the thoroly
+ground seed. About twenty-three gallons of oil can be obtained from one
+bushel of the seed. By boiling the oil with lead oxide or manganese
+oxide it can take more oxygen from the air, and thereby its drying
+powers are increased.
+
+Driers are substances that absorb oxygen from the air and give part of
+it to the oil. The raw linseed oil absorbs the oxygen from the air very
+slowly, but the addition of turpentine is a great aid in overcoming this
+defect.
+
+To insure the best results in painting, one must first consider the kind
+and condition of the surface to be painted, and to what use the toy will
+be put; then decide on the proper composition and consistency of the
+paint.
+
+#23. Application of Paint.#--In applying the paint to the toy the first
+coat should be thinned. This will act as a primer or undercoat for the
+succeeding coats of paint. Care should be taken that plenty of time is
+allowed between coats for the paint to dry thoroly. Three coats of paint
+will produce a good finish.
+
+#24. Preparation of surface.#--All woodwork must be sanded and thoroly
+dry before any paint is applied. Care should be taken to see that all
+knots and sappy streaks shall be covered with a coat of orange shellac.
+Then apply the first coat.
+
+After the priming coat of paint is thoroly dry, putty up all knot holes,
+dents, cracks, and other defects in the surface with a pure linseed oil
+putty composed of equal parts of white lead and whiting. When putty is
+dry, proceed with the other coats.
+
+#25. Tinting Materials.#--Formulas for making tints are to be followed
+only in a general way. Make some allowance for slight variations in the
+strength and tone of different makes of colors. Chromes and ochres vary
+noticeably. Weigh out your color and add it gradually, not all at once,
+noting the effect as you go. When you reach the desired shade, stop,
+regardless of what the formula calls for. Turpentine and dark driers
+will slightly alter shades. Make allowance for this.
+
+#26. Mixing Paints.#--Faulty mixing, even with the best of materials, is
+not likely to make durable paint. The important thing is to give the
+lead and oil a chance to incorporate themselves in that close union
+which they always make if allowed to do so. The following directions
+give best results. The order is important.
+
+(1) Break up the white lead with a paddle, using only enough oil to
+bring it to the consistency of colors in oil.
+
+(2) Add your colors for tinting. Coloring matter added after the paint
+has been thinned is likely to break up in lumps which leave streaks
+when brushed out.
+
+(3) Put in drier.
+
+(4) Add remainder of oil, stirring well.
+
+(5) Last of all, put in turpentine.
+
+Thinners help only the flow of the paint never the quality.
+
+To strain paint thru cheese cloth before using will be a safeguard
+against lumpy colors and streakiness. Paint also spreads further if
+strained.
+
+#27. Paint Formulas.#--As most toys are exposed to the weather a great
+deal, the following formulas are recommended. These take no account of
+tinting materials.
+
+(a) Priming Coat:
+
+  25 pounds pure white lead
+  1 gallon pure raw linseed oil
+  ½ gallon pure turpentine
+  ¼ pint drier, free from rosin
+
+(b) Body Coat:
+
+  25 pounds pure white lead
+  3/8 gallon pure raw linseed oil
+  3/8 gallon pure turpentine
+  ¼ pint drier, free from rosin
+
+(c) Finishing Coat:
+
+  25 pounds pure white lead
+  1 gallon pure raw linseed oil
+  ¼ pint pure turpentine
+  ¼ pint drier.
+
+One must exercise his own discretion in using a larger or smaller
+quantity of oil according to whether the wood is oil absorbing, as white
+pine, poplar, and basswood, or less permeable, as yellow pine, cypress,
+spruce, and hemlock.
+
+#28. Formulas for Making Tinted Paint.#--Any color or tint may be
+obtained by varying the addition of tinting colors. These tinting colors
+are called "colors in oil." The colors should be added to the white lead
+before the paint is thinned.
+
+To twenty-five pounds of white lead ground in oil add colors in oil as
+follows:
+
+  Medium Blue Slate      3½ oz. lamp black
+
+  Gray Blue              ¼ oz. lamp black
+                         1 oz. Prussian blue
+                         ¼ oz. medium chrome green
+
+  Dark Drab              5 lbs. French ochre
+                         ½ lb. lamp black
+                         ¼ lb. Venitian red
+
+  Dark Slate             2 oz. lamp black
+                         3 oz. medium chrome yellow
+
+  Dark Lilac             1 oz. lamp black
+                         5 oz. Venitian red
+
+  Lilac                  ½ oz. lamp black
+                         1½ oz. Venitian red
+
+  Forest Green           1½ oz. lamp black
+                         8 lbs. light green
+                         5 oz. medium chrome yellow
+
+  Buff                   1½ lb. French ochre
+                         3/8 oz. Venitian Red
+
+  Cream                  5 oz. French ochre
+
+  Sea Green              3/8 oz. lamp black
+                         ½ oz. medium chrome green
+                         1¼ oz. medium chrome yellow
+
+Where tinting colors are used in sufficiently large quantities to alter
+the consistency of the paint, add one-half as much linseed oil and
+turpentine, by weight, as you add tinting material.
+
+#29. Enameling.#--When using enamel as a finish for toys, care should be
+taken that the surface of the toy is in proper condition. To obtain good
+results proceed as follows: Give the wood a coat of shellac. Sand
+lightly and dust. The following coat should consist of part of white
+paint and one part of the enamel to be used. This coat should be
+slightly tinted with the finishing color, if the finishing coat is not
+white. Allow twenty-four hours for drying thoroly; then sand with
+No. OO sand paper. Next apply a coat of enamel of the color desired for
+the finished work. (Enamels may be tinted with colors ground in oil.)
+
+Should the enamel not work freely, add a spoonful of benzine to a gallon
+of enamel. Turpentine may also be used as a thinner for enamel.
+
+A better finish of enamel consists of two coats of paint before applying
+the enamel. This gives it a stronger body and of course makes it more
+durable.
+
+Because of its durability and for sanitary reasons enamel is the most
+desirable finish for toys. Its glossy finish is attractive and very
+appealing to children.
+
+#30. The Dipping Method.#--When a considerable quantity of toys is to be
+finished, the problem to be faced will be the cost of application of the
+paint rather than the cost of the paint itself. The dipping process,
+(immersing the material to be covered) is found to be the most
+successful, especially in toy making, where so many small parts are
+used.
+
+Many of the small pieces made can be subjected to the dipping process at
+quite a saving of time and labor, with probably better results than
+where the application of paint or stain is done with a brush.
+
+The success of the dipping process depends on the arrangement adopted
+for holding the toys while the actual dipping is done and while they are
+drying. Here the exercise of a little ingenuity on the part of the
+students and teacher, will overcome most difficulties.
+
+Supposing that a number of checkers, or handles, or small wheels are to
+be stained. A dipping frame as shown in Fig. 8 could very easily be
+prepared. You will notice the screen tray (which is removable), and the
+tin sheet which slopes towards the container. The small pieces to be
+stained can be handled in wire baskets with mesh just small enough so
+that the pieces will not fall thru.
+
+The wire basket is then immersed in the container and worked up and
+down, so that the liquid will penetrate and touch all pieces. It is then
+pulled up and swung over the screen tray, where the contents of the wire
+basket is dumped. Here, the superfluous paint will drip off on the tin
+sheet, which, because of its slope, will cause the superfluous paint to
+flow back in to the container. Fig. 9 shows the dipping frame in use.
+
+The screen tray can be removed and placed in a rack to allow for further
+drying. Several trays could then be made and a rack to hold them could
+very easily be constructed.
+
+The paint used for dipping purposes must so be prepared that too much
+does not run off or too much stay on, for this is surely one way to
+spoil the work. It should be thinned to the right consistency and care
+should be taken that the thinners used are of the best quality.
+
+Where larger pieces of work are to be dipped, wire attachments could be
+devised and each part hung separately over the dipping frame until ready
+to be placed in a rack. If the wire attachment forms a hook on one end,
+it will be possible to hang up the toy until drained and dried. In
+removing the toy from the paint it should be drawn out very slowly so
+that the surface of the paint may be left as smooth as possible.
+
+Where one desires line effects on toys, these may be lined in afterwards
+with a small size striping brush or sign painter's pencil.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8. Dipping frame]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9. Using the dipping frame]
+
+#31. Polishing by Tumbling.#---Excellent results in polishing large
+quantities of small pieces, may be obtained by tumbling. The material to
+be polished should be thoroly dry. The parts are then placed in a
+tumbler as shown in Fig. 10. Cut up paraffine wax into small pieces,
+using about one-fourth pound to each tumbler full of toys. Allow these
+to tumble several hours. This will distribute the wax evenly over the
+parts and produce a polished surface.
+
+The tumbler as shown in Fig. 10 is turned by hand, altho it could very
+easily be placed in a lathe, where one is available.
+
+#32. Care of Brushes.#--A suitable place should be provided for brushes
+that are not in use. A tin-lined keeper is recommended. Brushes should
+be suspended so that their bristles will not touch the bottom of the
+keeper, and have the liquid in which they are kept come well up over the
+bristles, so that none of the paint or varnish may dry in the butt of
+the brush.
+
+#33. Paint Application by Means of Compressed Air.#--In recent years,
+great advancement has been made in the application of paint by means of
+compressed air. The early use of pneumatic painting equipment was
+confined almost exclusively to the application of finishing materials
+such as japans, enamels, lacquers, varnishes, etc., on manufactured
+products. But in the past few years improvements have been made which
+eliminate all of the difficulties originally experienced and make
+possible the use of this method for interior and exterior painting, such
+as buildings, ships, etc.; and at present, a large portion of factory
+maintenance work is done in this manner. Excessive fumes have been
+eliminated and all materials can be applied without removing the
+volatile thinners, solvents, binders, etc., thru air reduction. This is
+brought about thru the use of low pressure and the perfection of
+ingenious patent nozzles and other improvements.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10. Tumbler for polishing small pieces]
+
+#34. Uses of Pneumatic Sprayers.#--Pneumatic paint sprayers, or air
+brushes, are extensively used in the manufacture of toys, furniture,
+automobile bodies, sewing machines, telephones, electrical equipment; in
+fact, very nearly all manufactured products, as well as on ships,
+structural steel and iron work, bridges and buildings.
+
+The speed of the air brush is very great compared with hand-brush work.
+Usually, an air-brush operator will accomplish as much in one hour as a
+hand or bristle-brush worker will in one day; and it is possible to
+obtain an even coating, free from sags, runs or brush-marks and better
+results are obtained than with the hand brush method. A film of paint
+can be applied in one operation equal to two hand-brush coats, as it is
+not necessary to reduce paints by thinning as much for air brush
+application, in a great many instances, as is the usual practice for
+hand-brushing. The air sprayer can also reach places inaccessible to the
+hand brush, and a perfect coat can be applied over rough, uneven
+surfaces, which could not be obtained by hand-brushing.
+
+In considering pneumatic painting equipment, the most important thing to
+be kept in mind is the proper application of materials. This can be
+successfully accomplished only thru the use of compressed air at low
+pressures. By this is meant using only sufficient main-line air to lay
+the paint, enamel, varnish or whatever finish may be used, on the
+object. Excessive pressure results in fumes, waste of material and air
+reduction taking place. By air reduction is meant the removal of the
+more volatile solvents, thinners, binders, etc., thru evaporation, and
+the material thus loses its adherent and coherent properties.
+
+Both types of air-brush equipment illustrated here require three cubic
+feet of air per minute to operate and the pressure necessary depends on
+the density, consistency or viscosity of the material used. For example,
+undercoaters, japans, etc.; require from twelve to fifteen pounds of
+pressure to apply perfectly; while enamels and varnishes take from
+eighteen to twenty-five pounds. Water stains require about five pounds
+of pressure.
+
+#35. Construction of Pneumatic Painting Outfit.#--A pneumatic painting
+outfit for finishing work consists essentially of an air brush, either
+of the attached-container type or the gun-type with separate paint
+tank, and a small compressor of sufficient capacity to operate the air
+brush, which can be belt-driven from shafting or direct connected. An
+exhaust hood with fan, for the removal of fumes, is advisable where the
+operation is reasonably continuous and especially where lacquers are
+used. The paint, ready for application, is poured into the tank; and the
+compressed air line leads to the tank with a branch line for air and
+paint from the tank to the nozzle of the gun type of machine; while only
+the air line is required with the attached-container type.
+
+The air hose used is 5/16" in diameter while the paint or fluid hose is
+the same size. The paint hose is made of a special compound to resist
+the action of the thinners, solvents, etc., used in the paint; and it is
+important to have this correct, so that the lining will not disintegrate
+and clog the air brush or gun.
+
+Fig. 11 shows a five-gallon container type. It will be noticed that the
+fluid connection is nearest the nozzle and that the air connection is at
+the bottom of the grip.
+
+#36. Special Attachments for Different Surfaces.#--A cone nozzle is
+furnished for painting irregular surfaces and a fan nozzle for wide,
+flat work. Adjusting and locking the nozzle regulates the degree of
+atomization. The jets of the fan nozzle are depressed to prevent being
+knocked out of alignment. Final regulation of the flow of material is
+made on the back of the gun, independent of the pressure on the material
+container. A wide variety of adjustment is possible with this positive
+regulation.
+
+The first pull on the trigger gives air only, which can be used for
+dusting ahead of the work; and as the trigger is released, the air valve
+closes last, which prevents clogging and dripping. When adjustments have
+been made the trigger action is the only moving part of the machine.
+Figs. 12 and 13 show the five-gallon container type in actual use.
+
+#37. Cleaning Pneumatic Machines.#--It is not necessary to take the gun
+apart nor disconnect the hose to clean the machine. Thinner can be run
+thru the device without loss by placing a small can of reducer of the
+last material used in the machine, and forcing it thru in the usual
+manner.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 11. A five-gallon air brush outfit]
+
+#38. Directions for Cleaning Machine.#--Close right-hand Air Valve and
+open release valve. Unscrew air nozzle a few turns. Obstruct outlet with
+thumb and pull trigger. Spraying pressure is thus forced thru gun and
+fluid hose and the material backed into the container. It is advisable
+frequently to run thinner thru the machine as follows: (1) Place small
+can of thinner in center of container directly beneath fluid tube. (2)
+Replace cover and tighten wing-nuts. (3) Close left-hand air valve and
+open right-hand air valve. Pressure on container will force thinner thru
+the machine and clean perfectly without loss. Do not use spraying
+pressure in cleaning. The thinner can be used again for either cleaning
+or thinning purposes.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12. Using pneumatic paint sprayers]
+
+#39. Directions for Operating Pneumatic Equipment.#--
+
+1. Attach main-line air hose to air filter.
+
+2. Attach fluid hose to connection marked "Fluid" on tank and to the
+front connection near air nozzle on hand-piece.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13. A five-gallon outfit in actual use]
+
+3. Attach air hose to connection marked "Air" on cover and to the handle
+connection on hand-piece.
+
+4. Thoroly mix and strain material so that it is entirely free from
+skins, lumps, and foreign materials.
+
+5. Tighten wing-nuts until paint container is air-tight.
+
+6. See that release valve is closed. Then open right-hand air valve,
+turn fluid-pressure regulator until gage shows 5 lbs. pressure in
+container. Pull trigger and use fluid regulator on gun to control the
+flow. If material is heavy, increase pressure in container.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14. Attached container type of sprayer]
+
+7. Open left-hand air valve and turn spraying pressure regulator until
+sufficient pressure (5 lbs. to 25 lbs.), is obtained to lay the material
+on.
+
+8. Make final adjustment of the flow of material with fluid regulator on
+back of hand-piece and get proper spray by adjusting the air nozzle.
+
+9. Spraying pressure and pressure in the container depends upon the
+density of the material used and the size of the surface to be coated. A
+little experimenting on the part of the operator will determine the best
+pressure to use. When the fan nozzle is used, 3 to 5 lbs. more pressure
+should be applied to the material container and from 5 to 8 lbs. more
+atomizing or spraying pressure used.
+
+Fig. 14 shows a complete attached container which operates on
+identically the same principles as the type shown in Fig. 11. It
+consists of a 1½ pint container, reducing outfit, compressor, and air
+tank. The 1½ pint container as shown in Fig. 15 is supplied complete
+with two fluid tips, gasket, agitator tube, cup-holder, hose union, and
+six feet of air hose.
+
+The reducing outfit in Fig. 16 consists of a regulative valve, an air
+gage, and an air filter, complete with connections and fittings. This
+outfit is for the purpose of maintaining an even low spraying pressure.
+
+Regulated pressure is applied to the air-tight material container,
+raising the coating material to the nozzle where only sufficient
+main-line pressure is used to lay the coating on. The spraying pressure
+necessarily depends on the density, consistency and viscosity of the
+material used.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 15. A one and one-half pint container and parts]
+
+For fine finishing work, where the quantity of materials used each day
+is not great, or where the colors are changed frequently, the attached
+container type is recommended.
+
+#40. Preparing Colors.#--The three primary colors are red, blue and
+yellow. With the three primary colors at hand, almost every variety of
+color desirable for ordinary use can be easily prepared. Fig. 17 shows a
+color chart.
+
+  Red mixed with yellow will result in orange.
+  Red mixed with blue will result in purple.
+  Yellow mixed with blue will result in green.
+
+The colors obtained by mixing any two primaries are called secondary
+colors. Therefor the secondary colors are orange, purple and green.
+
+Orange mixed with purple will result in brown.
+
+Orange mixed with green will result in olive.
+
+Purple mixed with green will result in slate.
+
+The colors obtained by mixing any two secondaries are called tertiary
+colors.
+
+The tertiary colors are brown, olive and slate.
+
+Of course different tones of each color can be made up by mixing unequal
+proportions.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16. Reducing outfit]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17. Chart showing proportions required for standard
+colors]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+COMMON WOODS USED IN TOY MAKING
+
+
+#41. Economy in Selecting Material.#--Economic use of materials should
+be encouraged at all times. Toy making offers an excellent opportunity
+where economy may be taught in the most practical way.
+
+Where toys are to be painted, more than one kind of wood may be used in
+the same toy and thereby using up small pieces of wood that would
+otherwise be called scrap. Yet, it is not advisable to sacrifice the
+strength and durability of the whole toy for the sake of using up a
+piece of scrap wood which weakens the particular part of the toy where
+it is used. For that, in the long run, is not economy.
+
+#42. Qualities of Different Woods Used.#--The following are some of the
+common woods used in toy making.
+
+Maple: hard, fine grained, compact, tough, used for wheels, axles,
+handles, dowel rods, etc.
+
+Ash: white, strong, open grained, easily worked; used for bodies of
+coasters, wheels, axles, oars, etc.
+
+Oak: hard, firm and compact, strong and durable, hard to work.
+
+Birch: moderately hard and heavy, even grained; difficult to split, but
+easily worked.
+
+Chestnut: resembles oak in appearance, is much softer, moderately hard,
+course grained, not strong, but durable.
+
+Cypress: moderately hard, very fine and close grained, virtually
+indestructable; known as "the wood eternal".
+
+Basswood: white, light, soft, tough, closed grained, easily worked, not
+strong, but durable; used for almost any part of a toy where much
+strength is not required.
+
+White Pine: very light, soft, close and straight grained, inferior; easy
+to work.
+
+Yellow Pine, yellowish, grain noticeable, harder than white pine,
+stronger.
+
+Tulip (yellow poplar): light, soft, close and straight grained; tougher
+than many woods equally soft, compact, not very strong or durable,
+easily worked.
+
+Spruce: straight growing, light, straight and even in grain, tough,
+elastic, easy to work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+USE OF JIGS AND FIXTURES
+
+
+#43. Value of Jigs and Fixtures.#--The use of jigs, fixtures, and other
+labor-saving devices is an important factor in illustrating industrial
+and practical applications in the school shop. It is advisable to let
+each group of boys work out its own jig or fixture for the particular
+job they have on hand.
+
+The three most common forms of jigs are cutting jigs, boring jigs, and
+assembling jigs. The important reasons for the use of such devices are:
+(1) They illustrate the speed of output in shop work. (2) They give the
+student a good idea of machine operation. (3) They help in making the
+parts interchangeable. (4) They offer an opportunity for getting first
+hand information on cutting edge tools and their proper uses. (5) They
+show the boy the value of the use of jigs in factory work.
+
+The toys illustrated in this book have many simple operations, such as
+cutting stock to length, drilling holes, surfacing, etc., that can be
+easily done by the use of the proper fixtures.
+
+For that reason toys are desirable projects to be made by the productive
+plan. Fig. 18 shows the use of a jig and the miter box.
+
+#44. Cutting Small Wheels.#--A circle of the desired size wheel may be
+laid out on the wood with the aid of a compass, and cut in the outline
+with a coping saw or band saw. Of course, it would take quite a long
+time by this method to make the small wheels in large quantities and
+besides the result would not be as good as when the wheels are made by
+machine.
+
+#45. Turning Wheels.#--Another way to produce wheels is to turn a
+cylinder to the required diameter, on the turning lathe. Then cut the
+cylinder on the circular saw into required thicknesses of wheels
+desired. This method is recommended for quick work.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18. Production of toys by use of jigs]
+
+If it is desired to round the end of wheels the operation can be done by
+leaving the cylinder in the lathe and applying the broad side of the
+skew chisel as shown in Fig. 33. The wheels may then be polished with a
+cloth after they have been sanded and while rotating in the lathe as
+shown in Fig. 34. In sanding, use first a fairly course grade of
+sandpaper, No. 1 or 1½ and afterwards a fine grade, No. O or OO.
+Before applying the cloth the wood may be varnished lightly while the
+lathe is not running, taking care to wipe off all the surplus varnish.
+The varnish will assist in giving the surface a fine polish when the
+cloth is applied. For further explanations of the use of the turning
+lathe, see Sec. 55.
+
+#46. Use of Wheel Cutter.#--Still another method of making small wheels
+is by use of the wheel cutter as shown in Fig. 19. This wheel cutter may
+be used in the ordinary bit brace. Good results may be obtained where
+the wheels are made out of thin, soft wood.
+
+This wheel cutter is known on the market as a leather washer cutter. If
+one cannot be obtained it can easily be made in the school machine shop
+at a small cost. Fig. 20 shows a drawing of a wheel cutter.
+
+You will notice that the blade can be adjusted to cut any diameter
+desired.
+
+#47. Use of Coping Saw.#--Where a band saw is not included in the shop
+equipment, many articles such as animal forms and small wheels could
+very easily be cut out with a coping saw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19. Wheel cutter in use]
+
+A saw board, as shown in Fig. 21 should be fastened to a table top with
+an iron clamp; or, a saw board made to fasten in a vise may also be
+used.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20. Details of a wheel cutter which may be made in
+school]
+
+When cutting out the toy part, the coping saw should be held in a
+vertical position as shown in Fig. 22, and in an up-and-down motion,
+with short fast strokes, following the outline carefully. Cut on the
+line. Do not press hard on the saw for the blade is very thin and can
+very easily be broken, but it should last a long time if used correctly.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21. Clamping the saw board to the bench]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22. Correct method of holding coping saw]
+
+#48. Cutting Sharp Corners.#--When cutting a sharp turn in the wood with
+the coping saw, care should be taken not to twist the saw blade out of
+shape. Upon reaching the sharp turn, continue the up-and-down motion,
+but without doing any cutting; turn the wood very slowly until you have
+made the complete turn, then continue with the sawing and follow the
+rest of the outline carefully.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23. Removing the saw-blade]
+
+#49. Removing the Saw-Blade from Frame.#--To remove the saw-blade from
+the frame, place the head of the frame against the table top as shown in
+Fig. 23. Pressing down on the handle will release the saw-blade. When
+inserting the blade into the frame the same method may be followed,
+being careful that the teeth of the saw-blade point toward the handle of
+the frame. The blade may be put in the end or the side slots of the
+frame, using the side slots only when the end slots will not serve the
+purpose.
+
+#50. Making Heavy Wheels.#--In turning heavier wheels that are to be
+used for coasters, kiddie cars, etc., the work is done with the head
+stock only, the wood being supported by the screw-center chuck or face
+plate.
+
+In turning the wheel the first step is the scraping cut as shown in Fig.
+24. This cut is properly made with the concave chisel held in such a
+position as to give a light scraping cut. Care should be exercised not
+to allow the chisel to extend too deeply, otherwise the material will
+chip with the grain.
+
+After the desired circumference has been obtained the surface should be
+worked to the desired form as shown in Fig. 25. This is accomplished by
+using the lathe rest, set at right angles with the bed or parallel with
+the face plate. The illustration in Fig. 26 shows the use of the
+dividers in marking off the position of the various corrugations in the
+wheel that is being turned. The sanding should be done while the wheel
+is in the lathe. Use first a fairly course grade of sand paper and
+afterwards a fine grade, No. O or OO.
+
+#51. Designs for Wheels.#--Suggestions for wooden toy wheels are shown
+in Fig. 27. Those numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 are plain wooden
+wheels varying in design only. No. 8 and 9 are re-enforced with zinc and
+large iron washers. No. 10 shows a segment of an iron pipe fitted in the
+center of the wheel to prevent wearing away of material. No. 11 shows a
+spoke wheel. The spokes are made of dowel rods; these fitting into a hub
+that can easily be turned out on the lathe. No. 13 shows a wheel built
+in segments which is then cut out on the band saw to resemble a standard
+spoke wheel. The rim is 1/8" steel, fastened to spokes with very small
+rivets.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24. Making heavy wheels. The scraping cut]
+
+#52. Cutting Wheels on Band-Saw.#--A circle of the required size wheel
+may be marked off on the wood with a compass, then cut in the outline on
+the band-saw. This method will leave square corners and will be more or
+less out of truth with the center of the wheel. To true up and smooth
+the outside of the wheel the lathe attachment as shown in Fig. 28 can be
+easily prepared. This attachment consists of a block _A_ fastened to the
+lathe bed with a single bolt, and a stop _B_ fastened to the upper face
+of the block _A_. The carriage _C_ is a loose piece the same thickness
+as the stop _B_ and is provided with a dowel rod to fit the central hole
+in the wheel. This dowel rod is so located that when the edge of the
+carriage _C_ is tight against the edge of the stop _D_, the distance
+from the center of the dowel rod to the face of the abrasive material
+on the disk, will be equal to the radius of the finished wheel.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25. Smoothing the side of wheels]
+
+The wood is cut out on the band saw a scant 1/16" over-size in diameter,
+and is then placed on the dowel rod in the carriage _C_ which is held
+flat on block _A_ while the edge of the blank is brought in contact with
+the grinding disc face by pushing the carriage forward with the left
+hand while the blank is slowly revolved with the right. This grinding is
+continued until the edges of stop _B_ and carriage _C_ will remain in
+contact during a complete revolution of the wheel blank. During this
+grinding process, the carriage should be moved back and forth from the
+edge to the center of the grinding disc so that the wear on the abrasive
+material may be equalized.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26. Using dividers to mark for cuts]
+
+A similar device used for chamfering the edges of the blanks is also
+shown in Fig. 28, as it looks when viewed from the front of the lathe.
+The preceding description will suffice for this as the same system of
+lettering has been used. It differs only in that block _A_ is made to
+set at an angle of 45 degrees instead of being level.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27. Many ways of making wheels for toys]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28. Simple attachments which may be made for lathe]
+
+Grinding discs may be made either of metal or wood. Metal is preferable
+but a hardwood disc fastened to a metal face plate will answer very
+well. There are many methods of fastening the abrasing material to the
+disc but the most convenient way is by the use of stick belt dressing.
+The disc is coated with dressing by holding the stick against it as it
+revolves and the abrasive is applied before the dressing has set. A pair
+of dividers or trammels is used to cut the abrasive material to the same
+diameter as the disc and it should be warmed on the uncoated side before
+it is applied. It sticks tightly to the disc but is easily removed and
+replaced with fresh material in a few minutes.
+
+#53. Boring Holes in Wheels.#--The center holes in wheels may be bored
+with bit and brace, but better results are obtained if the holes are
+bored in the lathe. A drill chuck fitted to the live spindle and a
+drilling pad for the tail stock spindle will be required to do this job
+efficiently. The tail stock is locked fast and the wheel to be drilled
+is placed against the drilling pad and fed up to the revolving bit by
+turning the tail spindle feed wheel. This method will produce a cleaner
+hole and one that is square with the wheel face.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+OPERATION OF WOODWORKING MACHINES
+
+
+#54. Importance of Machine Operations.#--A fair understanding of what is
+the correct position to take at some of the principal machines such as
+the lathe, universal saw, jointer, and sander, is very important to the
+student in the wood-working department. Such knowledge is of special
+importance to the one engaged in toy making, where every knowledge of
+use of machines, is put to the test.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29. The roughing cut]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30. The sizing cut]
+
+Sufficient examples are given to enable the student to arrive at a fair
+understanding of the correct postures.
+
+#55. Operating the Lathe.#--The lathe is perhaps one of the most
+important machines used in toy making. It lends itself to unlimited
+varieties of work and for that reason is really indispensible in the
+shop.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31. The paring cut]
+
+In Fig. 29 the student is preparing to take the _roughing cut_ in
+turning a cylinder. This operation consists of removing the corners of
+the square piece and is done with the tool known as the _gouge_.
+
+After the roughing cut has been taken, calipers set to the diameter
+desired will determine the depth of the next cut, _sizing cut_. The
+illustration in Fig. 30 shows the student performing this operation with
+the _cut-off tool_.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32. Using the cut-off tool]
+
+When the correct dimension has been found, the next step in the process
+of turning a cylinder is the _paring cut_ or finishing cut, Fig. 31.
+This is done with the _skew_ or _bevel chisel_. A very thin shaving is
+removed by this operation.
+
+The ends are then cut by using the cut-off tool as shown in Fig. 32. It
+is merely taking a slice off the end. If a very thin slice is to be
+removed, it is usually made by the long point of the skew chisel. If it
+is more than a quarter of an inch it should be _sized_ and then removed
+by the skew.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33. Making convex surfaces]
+
+If it is desired to round the end of a piece or to produce a convex
+surface the operation can be done by applying the broad side of the skew
+chisel, as in Fig. 33.
+
+#56. Face Plate Turning.#--The preceding paragraphs describe the process
+of turning when the piece is supported between the live and the dead
+centers. The processes shown in Figs. 24, 25 and 26, illustrate the
+character of the work done with the head stock only when the piece is
+supported by the screw-center chuck or face plate.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34. Polishing wood in lathe]
+
+The first step in face plate turning is the scraping cut, Fig. 24. This
+cut is properly made with the concave chisel held in such a position as
+to give a light scraping cut. Care should be exercised not to allow the
+chisel to extend too deeply, otherwise the material will chip with the
+grain. After the desired circumference has been obtained the surface
+should be smoothed with the skew chisel.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35. Cutting off stock]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 36. Fluting on circular saw]
+
+Fig. 25 shows the student modeling a rosette, using the rest, set at
+right angles with the bed or parallel with the face plate. Prior to the
+modeling a shearing cut should be taken with the skew chisel to face
+off the material to an even surface.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37. Cutting with special fence]
+
+The illustration in Fig. 26 shows the use of the dividers. The student
+is marking off to a uniform scale the position of the various
+corrugations in the rosette he is turning.
+
+#57. The Universal Saw.#--The operations that can be performed on the
+universal saw are so many that no attempt will be made to illustrate
+them all here. But enough are given to show the characteristic
+operations involved in cross-cutting, ripping, and dadoing,--the three
+basic uses of a circular saw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 38. Grooving, or ripping special work]
+
+It is a more dangerous tool than the lathe and the guard should be kept
+over the saw at all times, except of course, in dadoing when it can not
+be used.
+
+Figs. 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, illustrate the basic uses of a circular saw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 39. Cutting segments]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 40. Surfacing board on jointer]
+
+#58. The Hand Jointer.#--The great variety of work that can be done on a
+hand jointer depends very largely upon the knowledge and skill of the
+operator. It lends itself to so many operations, that the student gains
+much in knowledge and efficiency.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 41. Cutting bevels on jointer]
+
+The five operations shown in Figs. 40, 41, 42, 43 and 44, give a fair
+idea of the scope of work that is usually accomplished on a hand jointer
+and show something of the method by which the work should be done.
+
+The jointer is another tool where the use of the guard should never be
+omitted.
+
+#59. The Sander.#--The sander is an interesting machine in the school
+shop for on it considerable "forming" can be done as with the lathe,
+altho its prime use is to make smooth or polish.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 42. Jointing the edge]
+
+In Fig. 45 the boy at the left is forming a mitre while the one on the
+right is smoothing surface.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 43. Rabetting on the jointer]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 44. Cutting miter joints]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 45. The machine sander in operation]
+
+
+
+
+PART II.
+
+DRAWINGS FOR TOYS
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 1
+  _FOX and GEESE GAME_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 2
+  _RING TOSS_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 3
+  _BABY'S CART_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 4
+  _HAY CART_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 5
+  _Horse Head_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 6
+  _HORSE ON WHEELS
+  For Milk Wagon_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 7
+  _KIDO KAR TRAILER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 8
+  _AUTO ROADSTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 9
+  _AUTO RACER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 10
+  _PASSENGER CAR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 11
+  _MILK WAGON_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 12
+  _TABLE_
+  _Toy Furniture For Doll House_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 13
+  _CHAIR and ROCKER_
+  _Toy Furniture For Doll House_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 14
+  _BUFFET_
+  _Toy Furniture For Doll House_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 15
+  _TOY WHEEL-BARROW_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 16
+  _HORSE BARROW_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 17
+  _DOLL'S CARRIAGE_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 18
+  _NOAH'S ARK_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 19
+  _"BEAN BAG" GAME BOARD_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 20
+  _CHILD'S SWING_ #1]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 21
+  _CHILD'S SWING_ #2]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 22
+  _DOLL'S BED_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 23
+  _DOLL'S BED_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 24
+  _ADJUSTABLE STILTS_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 25
+  _SCOOTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 26
+  _STEERING COASTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 27
+  _KIDO KAR & DETAILS_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 28
+  _KID KAR JUNIOR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 29
+  _PONY KAR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 30
+  _DUPLEX SPEEDSTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 31
+  _ROCK-A-DOODLE_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 32
+  _SLED_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 33
+  _"Sturdy Flyer" Sled_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 34
+  _DUCKY LOO_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 35
+  _DUCK ROCKER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 36
+  _JITNEY_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 37
+  _JUNIOR ROADSTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 38
+  _Details of JUNIOR ROADSTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 39
+  _SENIOR COASTER & DETAILS_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 40
+  _DETAILS OF SENIOR COASTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 41
+  _AUTO-KAR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 42
+  _MOTO-KAR_
+  _CHOO-CHOO-KAR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 43
+  _Teetter-Totter_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 44
+  _TEETER ROCKER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 45
+  _CHECKER BOARD_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 46
+  _CHILD'S COSTUMER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 47
+  _BABY'S CHAIR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 48
+  _CHILDREN'S SAND BOX_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 49
+  _SAND BOX #2_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 50
+  _DOLL'S HOUSE-#1_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 51
+  _DOLL'S HOUSE-#2_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 52
+  _DOLL'S HOUSE-#2_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 53
+  _DUMB BELL_
+  _INDIAN CLUB_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 54
+  _BATS_]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+A
+
+  Auto kar, Plate 41, 104
+
+  Auto racer, Plate 9, 72
+
+  Auto Roadster, Plate 8, 71
+
+
+B
+
+  Bats, base ball, Plate 54, 117
+
+  Bazaars, toy sales, etc., 19
+
+  Bed, doll's, Plates 22, 23, 85, 86
+
+  Boring holes in wheels, 53
+
+  Brushes, care of, 31
+
+  Buffet, Plate 14, 77
+
+
+C
+
+  Car, baby's, Plate 36, 99
+
+  Car, passenger, Plate 10, 73
+
+  Cars, auto, motor, choo-choo, Plates 41, 42, 104, 105
+
+  Cart, baby's, Plate 3, 66
+
+  Cart, hay, Plate 4, 67
+
+  Carriage, dolls, Plate 17, 80
+
+  Chair & rocker, Plate 13, 76
+
+  Chair, baby's, Plate 47, 110
+
+  Checker board, Plate 45, 108
+
+  Check, credit, Fig. 7, 20
+
+  Coasters, Plates 26, 37, 39, 89, 101, 103
+
+  Coloring toys, 21
+    Sanitation emphasized, 21
+    Preparation of surfaces, 21
+    Application of water colors, 21
+    Analine water stains, 22
+    Formulas for analine water stains, 22
+    Oil stains, 23
+    Shellacking, 23
+    Varnishing, 23
+    Points on varnishing, 24
+    Color varnish, 24
+    Use of paint, 24
+    Dipping method, 28, 30
+    Polishing by tumbling, 31
+    Paint application by compressed air, 31
+
+  Colors, preparing, 39
+
+  Color chart, Fig. 17, 41
+
+  Contents, Table of, 5
+
+  Coping saw, use of, 45
+
+  Correlation, 7
+
+  Costumer, child's, Plate 46, 109
+
+
+D
+
+  Doll's house, Plates 50, 51, 52, 113, 114, 115
+
+  Dipping frame, 29
+
+  Drawings for toys, 63
+
+  Dumb bell, Plate 53, 116
+
+
+E
+
+  Enameling, 27
+
+
+F
+
+  Foremen, shop, 11
+
+  Fox & geese game, Plate 1, 64
+
+  Furniture, doll, 75, 76, 77
+
+
+G
+
+  Game board, "Bean Bag," Plate 19, 82
+
+  Game board, "Fox & Geese," Plate 1, 64
+
+  Grading students, 17
+
+
+H
+
+  Horse head, Plate 5, 68
+
+  Horse on wheels, Plate 6, 69
+
+  House, doll's, Plates 50, 51, 52, 113, 114, 115
+
+
+I
+
+  Indian club, Plate 53, 116
+
+
+J
+
+  Jigs & fixtures, 43
+
+  Jointer, hand, 59
+
+
+K
+
+  Kiddie kars, Plates 27, 28, 29, 90, 91, 92
+
+
+L
+
+  Lathe, operating the, 54, 55, 56, 57
+
+
+M
+
+  Machines, operating of woodworking, 54
+
+
+N
+
+  Noah's ark, Plate 18, 81
+
+
+O
+
+  Organization, plan for shop, 11
+
+
+P
+
+  Paint, use of, 24
+    Ingredients of, 24
+    Application, 25
+    Preparation of surface, 25
+    Tinting materials, 25
+    Mixing, 25
+    Formulas, 26
+    Formulas for tinted paint, 26
+    Enameling, 27
+
+  Plan for shop organization, 11
+    Grouping students, 11
+    Time clerk, 13
+    Tool-room clerk, 13
+    Recording attendance, 14
+    Time-card rack, 14
+    Time cards, 15
+    Grading students, 17
+    Accomplishment sheet, 18
+    Preparation for shop work, 19
+
+  Pneumatic equipment, 36
+
+  Preface, 3
+
+  Productive work, 11
+
+
+R
+
+  Ring toss, Plate 2, 65
+
+  Rocking chair, Plate 13, 76
+
+  Rocker, duck, Plate 35, 98
+
+  Rocker, ducky loo, Plate 34, 97
+
+  Rock-a-doodle, Plate 31, 94
+
+
+S
+
+  Sand box, Plates 48, 49, 111, 112
+
+  Sander, 60, 62
+
+  Saw, universal, 58
+
+  Scooter, Plate 25, 88
+
+  Sleds, Plates 32, 33, 95, 96
+
+  Sprayer, pneumatic air, 31, 33, 34
+
+  Sprayer, directions for operating, 36
+
+  Speedster, duplex, Plate 30, 93
+
+  Stain, oil, 23
+
+  Stain, analine water, 22
+
+  Stilts, adjustable, Plate 24, 87
+
+  Suggestions to teachers, 7
+
+  Swing, child's, Plates 20, 21, 83, 84
+
+
+T
+
+  Table for doll house, Plate 12, 75
+
+  Teeter-totter, Plate 43, 106
+
+  Teeter-rocker, Plate 44, 107
+
+  Time clerk, 13
+
+  Time cards, 15
+
+  Tool-room clerk, 13
+
+  Toy sales, 19
+
+  Trailer, kido-kar, Plate 7, 70
+
+  Tumbler, drawing of, 32
+
+  Tumbling, polishing by, 31, 32
+
+
+V
+
+  Varnishing, 23
+
+  Varnish, colored, 24
+
+  Varnishing, points on, 24
+
+
+W
+
+  Wagon, milk, Plate 11, 74
+
+  Water colors, 21
+
+  Wax polishing, 31
+
+  Wheel-barrow, toy, Plate 15, 78
+
+  Wheel-barrow, horse design, Plate 16, 79
+
+  Wheel cutter, 45, 46
+
+  Wheels, cutting small, 43
+
+  Wheels, designs, Fig. 27, 49, 51
+
+  Wheels, turning, 43
+
+  Woods used in toy making, 42
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVANCED TOY MAKING FOR SCHOOLS***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 36815-8.txt or 36815-8.zip *******
+
+
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+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" />
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Advanced Toy Making for Schools, by David M. Mitchell</title>
+    <style type="text/css">
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+<body>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Advanced Toy Making for Schools, by David M.
+Mitchell</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Advanced Toy Making for Schools</p>
+<p>Author: David M. Mitchell</p>
+<p>Release Date: July 22, 2011  [eBook #36815]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVANCED TOY MAKING FOR SCHOOLS***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4>E-text prepared by Chris Curnow<br />
+    and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br />
+    from page images generously made available by<br />
+    Internet Archive<br />
+    (<a href="http://www.archive.org/">http://www.archive.org</a>)</h4>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
+  <tr>
+    <td valign="top">
+      Note:
+    </td>
+    <td>
+      Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive. See
+      <a href="http://www.archive.org/details/advancedtoymakin00mitc">
+      http://www.archive.org/details/advancedtoymakin00mitc</a>
+	</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<img src="images/i_cover.jpg" width="1024" height="749" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h1>ADVANCED TOY MAKING<br />
+<small>FOR SCHOOLS</small></h1>
+
+<h4>BY</h4>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">David M. Mitchell</span></h2>
+
+<h4><i>Instructor Manual Arts<br />
+Willson Junior High School, Cleveland, Ohio</i></h4>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 196px;">
+<img src="images/i_002.png" width="196" height="202" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h3><big><span class="smcap">The Manual Arts Press</span></big><br />
+<small><span class="smcap">Peoria, Illinois</span></small></h3>
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Copyright 1922<br />
+David M. Mitchell</span><br />
+12 B 22<br />
+
+<br />
+<i>Printed in United States of America</i></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p>
+<h2>PREFACE</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft1" style="width: 100px;">
+<img src="images/i_004.png" width="100" height="100" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p style='text-indent: -1em;'>oys are today regarded as educational
+factors in the life of boys and
+girls. New toys come into demand
+at frequent intervals in the growth
+and mental development of the child. On account
+of the unfailing interest on the part of
+the pupils in toys and because of the unlimited
+educational possibilities contained in toy making,
+this work is rightfully taking an increasingly
+important place in the manual arts
+program in the schools.</p>
+
+<p>This book is the outgrowth of toy-making
+problems given to junior-high and high-school
+pupils. The author claims no originality for
+some of the toys. However, most of them
+have been originated or improved upon in the
+author's classes.</p>
+
+<p>While it is entirely satisfactory to have any
+of the toys mentioned in this book made as
+individual projects, they are here offered as
+suitable group projects or production projects,
+and it is hoped that the suggested form of shop
+organization for production work as treated in
+Part I is flexible enough so that the plan can
+be applied to most any shop conditions.</p>
+
+<p>The drawings of toys in Part II will suggest
+a variety of articles which may be used in
+carrying out the production work.</p>
+
+<p>Of course, the success of organizing and conducting
+classes for this kind of work depends
+largely upon the instructor. He must know
+definitely what he is trying to get done. He
+must adopt and pursue such methods of
+dealing with both the members of the class and
+the material as will contribute directly towards
+the desired end.</p>
+
+<p>Toy making carried on by the so-called productive
+plan, if handled properly, will bring
+out many of the essentials of an organization
+typical of the commercial industries. Together
+with its educational possibilities and its power
+to attract the attention of those engaged in
+this activity, toy making will rightfully take
+its place alongside other important subjects
+offered in a complete industrial arts course.</p>
+
+<p>The author wishes to acknowledge his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>
+indebtedness to William E. Roberts, supervisor
+of manual training, Cleveland Public Schools,
+for valuable suggestions and inspiration; to
+Joseph A. Shelley, Jersey City, N. J., for suggestions
+on finishing kiddie car wheels; to the
+Eclipse Air Brush Company, Newark, N. J., for
+valuable information and photographs of air
+brush equipment; and to the American Wood
+Working Machinery Co., for the use of the
+illustrations showing the operation of the turning
+lathe, universal saw, and other woodworking
+machines.</p>
+
+<div id="textbox">
+  <p class="alignleft">Cleveland, Ohio, 1921.</p>
+  <p class="alignright"><span class="smcap">D. M. Mitchell</span></p>
+</div>
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+
+
+<h3><a href="#PART_I"><b>PART I</b></a><br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Operations in Toy Making</span></h3>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="10" summary="" width="70%">
+<tr><td align='left'><big><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">Chapter I.</a> Productive Work</span></big></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='justify'>1. Suggested plan for shop organization. 2.
+Grouping of students. 3. The time clerk and tool-room
+clerk. 4. Recording attendance. 5. Time
+cards. 6. Using time card. 7. Grading students.
+8. Preliminary discussion and preparation for shopwork.
+9. Bazaars, toy sales, etc.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><big><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">Chapter II.</a> Coloring Toys</span></big></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='justify'>10. Sanitation emphasized. 11. Preparation of
+surfaces. 12. Application of water colors. 13.
+Analine water stains. 14. Formulas for analine
+water stains. 15. Oil stains. 16. Shellacking. 17.
+Varnishing. 18. Points on Varnishing. 19. Colored
+varnish. 20. Another suggestion for finishing.
+21. Use of paint. 22. Ingredients of good paint.
+23. Application of paint. 24. Preparation of surface.
+25. Tinting materials. 26. Mixing paints.
+27. Paint formulas. 28. Formulas for making
+tinted paint. 29. Enameling. 30. The dipping
+method. 31. Polishing by tumbling. 32. Care of
+brushes. 33. Paint application by means of compressed
+air. 34. Uses of pneumatic sprayers. 35.
+Construction of pneumatic painting outfit. 36.
+Special attachments for different surfaces. 37.
+Cleaning pneumatic machines. 38. Directions for
+cleaning machine. 39. Directions for operating
+pneumatic equipment. 40. Preparing colors.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><big><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">Chapter III.</a> Common Woods Used in Toy Making</span></big></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='justify'>41. Economy in selecting material. 42. Qualities
+of different woods used.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><big><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">Chapter IV.</a> Use of Jigs and Fixtures</span></big></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='justify'>43. Value of jigs and fixtures. 44. Cutting small
+wheels. 45. Turning wheels. 46. Use of wheel
+cutter. 47. Use of coping saw. 48. Cutting
+sharp corners. 49. Removing the saw-blade
+from frame. 50. Making heavy wheels. 51. Designs
+for wheels. 52. Cutting wheels on band-saw.
+53. Boring holes in wheels.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><big><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">Chapter V.</a> Operation of Woodworking Machines</span></big></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='justify'>54. Importance of machine operations. 55. Operating
+the lathe. 56. Face plate turning. 57. The
+universal saw. 58. The hand jointer. 59. The
+sander.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a href="#PART_II"><b>PART II</b></a><br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Drawings for Toys</span></h3>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" width="50%">
+<tr><td align='center'>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>Plate</td><td align='left'>1. Fox and Geese Game</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>2. Ring Toss</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>3. Baby's Cart</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>4. Hay Cart</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>5. Horse Head</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>6. Horse on Wheels</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>7. Kido Kar Trailer</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>8. Auto Roadster</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>9. Auto Racer</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>10. Passenger Car</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>11. Milk Wagon</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>12. Table for Doll House</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>13. Chair and Rocker</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>14. Buffet</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_77">77</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>15. Toy Wheel-Barrow</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>16. Horse Barrow</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>17. Doll's Carriage</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>18. Noah's Ark</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>19. "Bean Bag" Game Board</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>20. Child's Swing No. 1</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>21. Child's Swing No. 2</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>22. Doll's Bed, No. 1</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>23. Doll's Bed, No. 2</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_86">86</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>24. Adjustable Stilts</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>25. Scooter</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>26. Steering Coaster</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>27. Kido Kar</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>28. Kid Kar Junior</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>29. Pony Kar</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>30. Duplex Speedster</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>31. Rock-a-Doodle</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>32. Sled</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>33. "Sturdy Flyer" Sled</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>34. Ducky Loo</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>35. Duck Rocker</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>36. Jitney</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>37. Junior Roadster</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>38. Details of Junior Roadster</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>39. Senior Coaster</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>40. Details of Senior Coaster</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_103">103</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>41. Auto-Kar</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>42. Choo-Choo-Kar</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>43. Teeter-Totter</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>44. Teeter Rocker</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>45. Checker Board</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>46. Child's Costumer</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>47. Baby's Chair</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_110">110</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>48. Children's Sand Box</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>49. Sand Box No. 2</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>50. Doll's House No. 1</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>51. Doll's House No. 2</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_114">114</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>52. Doll's House No. 2</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>53. Dumb Bell &amp; Indian Club</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>54. Bats</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+<h2>SUGGESTIONS TO TEACHERS</h2>
+
+
+<p>Where the work is to be done on the so-called
+productive basis, it is of utmost importance
+that, before starting, the classes should be so
+organized as to allow the work to be carried
+on in the most efficient, progressive manner.
+The form of shop organization suggested in this
+book is recommended. However, the instructor
+may, particularly if he has had good practical
+shop experience, employ other methods of
+organization that are just as good and possibly
+even better for his particular class and the
+conditions under which he has to work.</p>
+
+<p>It is also of great importance that the
+instructor should acquaint himself with the
+processes involved in the making of each toy
+before allowing the class to begin it. This may
+be accomplished by the making of a sample of
+the contemplated project, carefully analyzing
+its different parts and arranging the operations
+in a logical sequence. This phase of the work
+may be done during class discussions and
+demonstrations at which time the different jigs
+and fixtures needed for progressive production
+may also be developed.</p>
+
+<p>The different methods of coloring toys have
+been suggested with the hope that the student
+will gain a realization of the importance of
+finishing, from both the artistic and the practical
+point of view. The application of paint by
+means of compressed air is the latest development
+in the coloring of toys, and an equipment
+in the school shop illustrating the principles of
+compressed air as applied to productive finishing
+of toys, is a step forward in making school
+shops function as they should.</p>
+
+<p>The working drawings in this book should
+serve as suggestions. They have been so constructed
+as to be free from unnecessary technicalities,
+and to leave as much opportunity as
+possible for the exercise and development of the
+student's judgment.</p>
+
+<p>It will be found that toy making offers itself
+readily to the desired co-operation and correlation
+with other departments in the school. For
+instance, the art department may aid with the
+designing and color scheme to be used on toys;
+the general metal shop may help in the making
+of necessary metal parts: the mechanical
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>
+drawing department can co-operate in the making
+of working drawings; the mathematics
+department can figure the costs of production,
+etc., etc.</p>
+
+<p>It is hoped that the purpose of this book is
+not merely to set forth a few plans and drawings
+for the construction of toys, but to give
+the work the broadest possible application;
+creating a constructive influence on the minds
+of the students, in which case it will also act as
+a means of bringing into closer relationship their
+life outside of school with the work in school.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<span class="smcap caption">Toy Making on a Productive Basis Employing Factory Methods</span>
+<img src="images/i_011.jpg" width="1024" height="655" alt="Toy Making on a Productive Basis Employing Factory Methods" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+<h1><a name="PART_I" id="PART_I"></a>PART I</h1>
+
+<h1><span class="smcap">Operations in Toy Making</span></h1>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Productive Work</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><b>1. Suggested Plan for Shop Organization.</b>&mdash;While
+it is entirely satisfactory to have any of
+the toys mentioned in this book made as
+individual projects, they are here offered as
+suitable group projects or production projects.
+Production work may be defined as work done
+by a class to turn out a number of similar projects
+that have a marketable value, with the
+aid of jigs, fixtures, and other means of duplication,
+illustrating the industrial or practical
+application to the tasks in hand, Figs. 1, 2, and
+3. This does not mean, however, that the
+school shops be transformed into a factory in
+the full sense of the word. It should differ from
+a factory in that the education of the student is
+the major part of the product, while in the
+factory production is the foremost aim.</p>
+
+<p>In doing work by the productive plan two
+important problems will present themselves at
+the outset; first, the time element; and second,
+industrial or practical application to the tasks in
+hand.</p>
+
+<p>A brief explanation of the plan of organization
+in one of the author's classes will attempt to
+show how nearly these problems can be solved.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 1. Material for toys, prepared on a large scale</span>
+<img src="images/i_013.jpg" width="1024" height="629" alt="Fig. 1. Material for toys, prepared on a large scale" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><b>2. Grouping of Students.</b>&mdash;Classes are divided
+into groups of between four and six boys, with
+a boy foreman appointed at the head of each
+group. The foreman is held responsible for the
+work turned out by his boys. He is to see that
+they understand just what is to be done and
+how it is to be done. All the group foremen are
+directly responsible to the general foreman who
+in turn is responsible to the instructor. The
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>general foreman is to act as an inspector of
+finished work after it has received the group
+foreman's O.K. He is also held responsible for
+the condition of the shop during his class hour.
+This includes looking after all material, the
+manner in which stock is put away after class,
+and adherence to all shop rules that have been
+adopted to help in the efficiency of shop procedure.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 2. A large order of toys partly constructed</span>
+<img src="images/i_014.jpg" width="1024" height="532" alt="Fig. 2. A large order of toys partly constructed" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><b>3. The Time Clerk and Tool-Room Clerk.</b>&mdash;A
+"<i>Time Clerk</i>" is appointed to take charge of
+the time cards. He is also held responsible for
+all the clerical work that is to be done in the
+shop.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>Tool-Room Clerk</i> is appointed to take charge
+of the shop tool room. He is to keep check of
+all tools given out and taken in. His spare
+time should be devoted to the care of tools.</p>
+
+<p>If possible, each boy in the class should be
+given an opportunity to act in each capacity
+that has been created, so that he may get the
+most varied experience in shop procedure. This
+will necessitate the changing of boys from one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>
+group to another; the changing of foremen,
+clerks, etc., at intervals which will of course be
+governed by the size of the class and the number
+of hours devoted to the work.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 3. Milk wagons completed by the production method</span>
+<img src="images/i_015.jpg" width="1024" height="517" alt="Fig. 3. Milk wagons completed by the production method" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 4. The time-card rack.</span>
+<img src="images/i_016.jpg" width="480" height="620" alt="Fig. 4. The time-card rack." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><b>4. Recording Attendance.</b>&mdash;Boys, upon entering
+the shop, register their presence at the
+Time-Card Rack, Fig. 4. This is done by
+turning the time card shown in Fig. 5, so that
+the back side, which has the word present
+printed at top, is exposed. The time clerk then
+inspects the cards and notes those that have
+not been turned, and records the absences. He
+then fills in the date and passes the cards out
+to the boys in the shop. Toward the latter part
+of the period, a few minutes time is given the
+boys to fill in the necessary data on the time card.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The time cards are then collected by the time
+clerk and put into a box where the time cards
+of all the classes are kept. In the meantime
+the time clerk puts back into the time rack
+the cards of the incoming class. This duty is
+performed by the time clerks of all the classes,
+thereby necessitating the use of only one time
+card rack.</p>
+
+<p><b>5. Time Cards.</b>&mdash;Referring to the time card
+mentioned in Fig. 5 it will be seen that the
+workman's shop number is filled in at the top.
+Then under the heading of "Woodworking
+Department" are two horizontal rows of items
+which need very little explanation. Following
+are three columns headed "Operation," "Assignment,"
+and "Time." Below the word
+"Operation" are set down the various operations
+undertaken in the woodworking department,
+with several vacant spaces provided
+where other and special operations can be filled
+in. It will also be noticed that "Operations"
+are divided into two kinds, machine work and
+bench work. The instructor's glance at the time
+card will tell him at once what phase of the
+work the boy has been employed in and will
+help him in apportioning the work so that the
+boy is offered a varied experience.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>6. Using Time Card.</b>&mdash;For shops that are not
+equipped with the kind of machines marked on
+the illustrated card, it would be well to omit
+the names of machines in the "operation"
+column. The instructor may then fill in the
+operation whatever it may be.</p>
+
+<p>Under the heading "Assignment" and against
+the operation which is to be undertaken by the
+student, the instructor writes in the name of the
+part to be made. This is the student's assignment
+and it should be read by him at the time
+he records his presence at the time-card rack
+upon entering the shop.</p>
+
+<p>In making assignments, the instructor may
+find it rather difficult to keep up with large
+classes of boys. This difficulty may be overcome
+by making an assignment to an entire
+group instead of to each boy. For example, in a
+class of twenty-five that would probably be
+divided into five groups, the instructor may
+make the assignment to the foreman of each
+group and each foreman in turn can inform the
+boys of his group as to the nature of the assignment.
+The boys can then enter the assignment
+on their time cards at the end of the period
+when the time spent on the job at hand is
+also recorded.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 466px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 5. Time card</span>
+<img src="images/i_018.jpg" width="466" height="640" alt="Fig. 5. Time card" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The student's shop number, name, and grade
+should be filled in by the time clerk who can
+get out a number of cards for each student in
+advance and these are kept ready for use by the
+instructor. The instructor can then mark the
+project and the job number together with the
+student's assignment. At the same time he
+estimates the journeyman's time and rate and
+enters them in the space provided.</p>
+
+<p>The time card in Fig. 5, is 3&frac12; inches by 9
+inches, made of three-ply bristol board. All
+worker's cards are printed on white colored
+bristol while those of the foremen are of blue
+colored bristol. This plan is for the instructor's
+convenience to be able to pick out the foremen's
+time cards at a glance.</p>
+
+<p>In the triple column under the heading
+"TIME" is provided room for the date and
+spaces in which the student can write the time
+in minutes spent on the various operations on
+that date. The triple columns on each side of
+the card allow of the cards being used for six
+days. If a job lasts longer than six days another
+card should be used marking them No. 1 and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>
+No. 2, respectively, in the space marked "Card
+No." Both cards should be fastened and kept
+together.</p>
+
+<p>Effort should always be made to have all the
+assignments short (less than six days) so that
+the student's record may be computed at the
+end of each week by the time clerk.</p>
+
+<p><b>7. Grading Students.</b>&mdash;The next four spaces
+contain in condensed form, the information
+itemized in other parts of the card. This,
+together with other information set down by
+the instructor, is the vital material sought for.</p>
+
+<p>The item A "Journeyman's Time" is very
+easily recorded by the instructor. It is arrived
+at in the same way as in making out the estimate
+for any piece of work and can be recorded almost
+at once. The main purpose here is to set for
+the student a standard of time on which to
+work.</p>
+
+<p>The item B is the rate in points per hour,
+based on the journeyman's time.</p>
+
+<p>The item C is the total of the student's time
+added together from the various spaces under
+"Time."</p>
+
+<p>Item D "Quality Decimal" is the quality of
+the student's job expressed in the form of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>
+decimal, with 100% as the maximum. This
+mark should be filled in by the instructor when
+the student completes his job.</p>
+
+<p>The next item, the number of points the
+student earns is found by the formula Points
+= (A&times;B)D</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td valign='top'>Points earned per hour =</td><td align='center'><span class="u">(A&times;B)D</span><br />C</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 453px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 6. Monthly accomplishment sheet</span>
+<img src="images/i_019.jpg" width="453" height="640" alt="Fig. 6. Monthly accomplishment sheet" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>For example, a student receives an assignment
+to cut to thickness, width, and length,
+sixty chair legs. The size of the legs he is to
+get from the job blueprint. He spends 60
+minutes a day, for three days, making a total
+of 180 minutes or 3 hours. The time it would
+take a journeyman to do the same job is
+estimated at 2 hours. The rate adopted is at
+80 points per hour; the journeyman therefore
+earns A&times;B = 2&times;80 = 160 Points. The quality of
+the student's job is graded by the instructor as
+75%. The number of points the student earns
+is found by the formula Points = (A&times;B)D =
+(2&times;80).75 = 120 Points. To find the number of
+points the student earns per hour, divide 120
+points by the number of hours it took the
+student to complete the job, which equals
+120 &divide; 3 = 40, the number of points the student
+earns per hour. However, if the student
+would be graded 100%, he would earn the
+same number of points as the journeyman.
+But of course, he would have done it in
+three hours where the journeyman has earned<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>
+the same number of points in two hours. It will
+readily be seen that this scheme offers the
+student an everlasting incentive to equal the
+journeyman's record.</p>
+
+<p>Having obtained the points on the time card
+or assignment card as it may be called, these
+are then transferred to a monthly accomplishment
+sheet as shown in Fig. 6, which is provided
+for all the students in all classes.</p>
+
+<p>The total number of points for each boy,
+group, and class can then be easily obtained.
+These totals can be put up in poster form
+and hung on the shop's bulletin board, showing
+the standing of each boy, group, and class.
+It is surprising the amount of interest and competition
+that can be aroused; everyone working
+for the highest honors, unconsciously, with a
+competitive spirit that will bring out considerable
+thought and effort to the matter of handling
+material for maximum production.</p>
+
+<p><b>8. Preliminary Discussion and Preparation for
+Shopwork.</b>&mdash;Of course, no time card or assignment-record
+scheme can hope entirely to eliminate
+the necessary preliminary discussions and
+preparation. The author has found it of
+material help to meet the foremen of all the
+classes at hours other than their regular class
+hour and discuss such topics as "Securing
+Cooperation," "Instructing Workers," "Maintaining
+Cleanliness and Order," "Records and
+Reports," "Inspecting Work," "Routing Material
+Thru Shop," "Care of Stock," etc.</p>
+
+<p>Details regarding construction and assembling
+should be worked out by the instructor
+beforehand, and also developed with the class
+as the work progresses. Care should be taken
+that plans are carefully made regarding the
+storage of stock and unfinished parts.</p>
+
+<p>The old saying, "An ounce of prevention is
+worth a pound of cure," is an old one, but a
+good one.</p>
+
+<p><b>9. Bazaars, Toy Sales, Etc.</b>&mdash;The plan of selling
+toys, that are made in the school shop, to
+the boys and girls of the school is a plausible
+one. It can very easily be accomplished in the
+form of bazaars, exhibitions, or school toy sales.</p>
+
+<p>The writer has had a number of samples of
+different toys made and put on exhibition,
+and orders taken, requiring a deposit on each
+order. These were then turned in to the shop
+department and the toys made on the productive
+plan.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The boys in the shop would receive school
+checks, Fig. 7, for the total number of points that
+they earned for the semester. These checks
+could then be used by them towards the purchasing
+of any of the toys that were put on
+sale; a certain number of points required for the
+purchase of different toys.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<a name="fig_7" id="fig_7"></a>
+<span class="caption">Fig. 7. Credit check, based on number of points carved</span>
+<img src="images/i_021.jpg" width="1024" height="439" alt="Fig. 7. Credit check, based on number of points carved" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>This plan was made possible by adding on to
+the number of orders received an additional
+number equal to the number of boys in the
+shop. For example, twenty-four orders for
+toy milk wagons were received by a class of
+twenty-four boys. Then instead of making
+twenty-four toy milk wagons we doubled the
+number and made forty-eight of them. The
+price that was figured on for the twenty-four
+orders would more than cover the cost of material
+for the other twenty-four articles that
+the boys would be able to buy with their
+earned checks.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Coloring Toys</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><b>10. Sanitation Emphasized.</b>&mdash;All application of
+color to toys should carry with it a realization
+that toys are meant primarily for children and
+that all paints should therefore be free from
+poisonous compounds.</p>
+
+<p>All paints used should be of good quality so
+that it will not come off easily to discolor the
+hands or tongues of children who cannot resist
+the temptation of sticking everything possible
+into their mouths.</p>
+
+<p><b>11. Preparation of Surfaces.</b>&mdash;Wooden toys
+may be finished quite bright and in various
+colors.</p>
+
+<p>Before applying the color it is absolutely
+necessary that every part of the toy has been
+thoroly sanded. Where sanding is done by
+machine, care should be taken not to sand the
+wood too much. Many difficulties may arise
+from too much as well as from too little sanding.
+In hand sanding, the use of a block 2&frac12;" &times; 3&frac12;",
+to which is glued a piece of cork, is recommended.</p>
+
+<p><b>12. Application of Water Colors.</b>&mdash;Toys may be
+colored by the use of different materials and by
+various methods. Kalsomine colors, opaque
+water colors, variously known as show card
+colors, liquid tempera, and letterine,&mdash;all come
+under the heading of water colors. All but the
+kalsomine may be obtained in small jars and
+ready for use. Kalsomine colors come in powder
+form in various colors and may easily be prepared
+by mixing with water and a little glue to
+bind the parts together. They are much
+cheaper than the ordinary forms of transparent
+and opaque water colors. They may be applied
+with the ordinary water color brushes.</p>
+
+<p>After a coat of water color has been applied
+to the toy, it may be necessary to remove the
+rough parts with very fine sand paper. Care
+should be taken not to "cut thru" when sanding.</p>
+
+<p>To preserve and protect the water color on
+the toy a coat of white shellac may be applied.
+If a more durable finish is desired a coat of
+good clear varnish over the shellac will serve the
+purpose.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>13. Analine Water Stains.</b>&mdash;For general finishing
+of toys analine water stains will produce
+excellent results. They are known for their
+ability to penetrate the wood deeply and the
+ease with which any shade can be produced.
+Water stain raises the grain of the wood more
+than any other. This makes it necessary to
+sandpaper down the raised grain until smooth
+and then proceed with the shellacking and
+varnishing until the desired results are obtained.</p>
+
+<p>In preparing analine water stains, only analines
+that are soluble in water are used. Place
+an ounce of the analine to a quart of hot or
+boiling water, pouring the water over the dye-stuff
+and stirring meanwhile with a wooden
+paddle or stick. Soft water is the best. In
+about an hour the dye may be filtered thru a
+piece of fine woven cloth. As metal is apt to
+discolor the dye, it is better to use a glass container.
+If the prepared solution is too strong
+it may be diluted in more water. Use hot
+water for diluting the stain.</p>
+
+<p>The work with water stain must be done
+quickly in order to obtain a uniform coloring
+on the surface. Water stains are used a great
+deal where the dipping process is employed in
+the finishing of toys. A hot dipping stain is
+preferable to a cold dipping stain, first, because
+it penetrates more readily and second, because
+it dries quicker.</p>
+
+<p><b>14. Formulas for Analine Water Stains.</b>&mdash;(Stock
+Solutions).</p>
+
+<p><i>Red</i>: Rose benzol five parts, water ten parts.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rose Red</i>: Dissolve 3 oz. Rose Bengal in 5
+pints of water.</p>
+
+<p><i>Blue</i>: (a) Dissolve 1 oz. of the best indigo
+carmine in 8 oz. of water. (b) Prussian blue
+dissolved in water.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dark Blue</i>: Dissolve 3 oz. Bengal blue in 3&frac12;
+pints of boiling water, and stir and filter the
+fluid in ten minutes time.</p>
+
+<p><i>Green</i>: Mix Prussian blue and raw sienna in
+such proportions as will give the desired color.
+Mix in water.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brown</i>: Dissolve 3 oz. of Bismark brown in
+&frac12; gal. of water.</p>
+
+<p><i>Yellow</i>: Auramine 4 parts, sulphate of soda
+10 parts, mixed in water.</p>
+
+<p><i>Black</i>: Nigrosine black, four ounces, dissolved
+in one gallon of boiling water.</p>
+
+<p>When wanted for use, these analines may be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>
+diluted with water. The rule is, an ounce of
+analine to the gallon of water to form a working
+stain. Or to a pint of the stock solution, as
+it is called, you may add three pints of water.</p>
+
+<p><b>15. Oil Stains.</b>&mdash;It will be found that quicker
+work can be done with oil stain than with water
+colors. For that reason, oil stains are also
+used a great deal as a dipping stain. In preparing
+oil stains, the best mineral or earth pigments
+to dissolve with turpentine are Van Dyke
+brown, chrome green, burnt and raw sienna, and
+lamp black.</p>
+
+<p><b>16. Shellacking.</b>&mdash;There are two kinds of shellac,
+orange and white. The white shellac is
+orange shellac that has been bleached. The
+purpose of shellac as commonly understood is
+to give a quick coat over the stain. The thin
+coat formed serves as a protector for the stain
+and also as an undercoater for the following coat
+of varnish. In this way at least one coat of
+varnish is eliminated and a great deal of time
+saved because the shellac dries within a few
+minutes. To thin shellac use denatured alcohol.</p>
+
+<p>On cheaper toys a coat of shellac only may be
+used as a covering for the color stain. If orange
+shellac is used it will be found that it effects
+the color of the stain used. White shellac also
+produces a slight change in color and for this
+reason many working with toys will use a good
+clear varnish instead.</p>
+
+<p><b>17. Varnishing.</b>&mdash;Two or three coats of varnish
+will produce a very durable finish. The first
+coat of varnish ought not be quite as heavy as
+the succeeding coats. If the varnish is of extra
+heavy body it should be reduced slightly for the
+first coat. The best varnish reducer is thin
+varnish. To prepare this reducer, take one part
+varnish (the same varnish to be reduced), and
+two parts of turpentine. Shake these together
+well and let stand twenty-four hours before
+using. This will reduce the consistency of the
+varnish without tearing down the body as pure
+turpentine would. The first coat of varnish
+should be allowed to dry thoroly before the
+second coat is applied.</p>
+
+<p>Oil varnishes made from good hard gums,
+pure linseed oil, and turpentine, are the most
+valuable. In using turpentine to thin varnish
+care should be taken that adulterated turpentine
+is not used. To play the game safe it is
+advisable to use a little benzine, for it will not
+injure the varnish, but will evaporate entirely,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>
+and not flatten the varnish as turpentine does.</p>
+
+<p><b>18. Points on Varnishing.</b>&mdash;(1) The less varnish
+is worked under the brush the better its
+luster. (2) Use clean brush and pot, and clean
+varnish. See that the surface is clean before
+beginning to varnish. (3) Allow a coat of
+varnish plenty of time for drying until it becomes
+hard.</p>
+
+<p><b>19. Colored Varnish.</b>&mdash;Colored varnish is that
+in which a proportion of varnish is added to the
+pigment and thinned. The base is usually an
+earth color such as ochre, sienna, venitian red,
+Van Dyke brown, umber, lamp black, etc.</p>
+
+<p>With this the work can be done in one coat.
+This method of finishing is usually employed
+on the cheaper class of toys where it isn't
+advisable to apply an expensive finish.</p>
+
+<p><b>20. Another Suggestion for Finishing.</b>&mdash;Tint a
+gallon of benzine or gasoline with chrome green,
+chrome yellow, and vermilion, ground in Japan
+until the desired shade is obtained. This
+formulae is especially good for dipping purposes.</p>
+
+<p><b>21. Use of Paint.</b>&mdash;Although paint can be
+bought ready prepared and in any color, as has
+been stated, it is advisable to have the students
+mix their own colors and choose their own color
+scheme.</p>
+
+<p><b>22. Ingredients of good Paint.</b>&mdash;The best
+paints are usually made by mixing together
+white lead, linseed oil, pigment of the desired
+color (colors ground in oil), and a drier.</p>
+
+<p>While white lead is sufficient as the pigment
+for white paint, a better result is obtained by
+mixing zinc oxide with the white lead. These
+two substances have the convenient property
+of balancing each other's disadvantages. For
+instance, zinc oxide has a tendency to crack and
+to peal, which is overcome by the tougher
+coating formed by the white lead. Again, when
+white lead is exposed to light and weathering, it
+becomes chalky, which fault is remedied by the
+property possessed by zinc oxide, of remaining
+hard.</p>
+
+<p>The linseed oil used is obtained from flaxseed
+by pressing the thoroly ground seed. About
+twenty-three gallons of oil can be obtained from
+one bushel of the seed. By boiling the oil with
+lead oxide or manganese oxide it can take more
+oxygen from the air, and thereby its drying
+powers are increased.</p>
+
+<p>Driers are substances that absorb oxygen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>
+from the air and give part of it to the oil. The
+raw linseed oil absorbs the oxygen from the air
+very slowly, but the addition of turpentine is a
+great aid in overcoming this defect.</p>
+
+<p>To insure the best results in painting, one
+must first consider the kind and condition of the
+surface to be painted, and to what use the toy
+will be put; then decide on the proper composition
+and consistency of the paint.</p>
+
+<p><b>23. Application of Paint.</b>&mdash;In applying the
+paint to the toy the first coat should be thinned.
+This will act as a primer or undercoat for the
+succeeding coats of paint. Care should be taken
+that plenty of time is allowed between coats
+for the paint to dry thoroly. Three coats of
+paint will produce a good finish.</p>
+
+<p><b>24. Preparation of surface.</b>&mdash;All woodwork
+must be sanded and thoroly dry before any
+paint is applied. Care should be taken to see
+that all knots and sappy streaks shall be covered
+with a coat of orange shellac. Then apply the
+first coat.</p>
+
+<p>After the priming coat of paint is thoroly
+dry, putty up all knot holes, dents, cracks, and
+other defects in the surface with a pure linseed
+oil putty composed of equal parts of white lead
+and whiting. When putty is dry, proceed with
+the other coats.</p>
+
+<p><b>25. Tinting Materials.</b>&mdash;Formulas for making
+tints are to be followed only in a general way.
+Make some allowance for slight variations in
+the strength and tone of different makes of
+colors. Chromes and ochres vary noticeably.
+Weigh out your color and add it gradually, not
+all at once, noting the effect as you go. When
+you reach the desired shade, stop, regardless of
+what the formula calls for. Turpentine and dark
+driers will slightly alter shades. Make allowance
+for this.</p>
+
+<p><b>26. Mixing Paints.</b>&mdash;Faulty mixing, even with
+the best of materials, is not likely to make durable
+paint. The important thing is to give the
+lead and oil a chance to incorporate themselves
+in that close union which they always make if
+allowed to do so. The following directions give
+best results. The order is important.</p>
+
+<p>(1) Break up the white lead with a paddle,
+using only enough oil to bring it to the consistency
+of colors in oil.</p>
+
+<p>(2) Add your colors for tinting. Coloring
+matter added after the paint has been thinned is
+likely to break up in lumps which leave streaks<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+when brushed out.</p>
+
+<p>(3) Put in drier.</p>
+
+<p>(4) Add remainder of oil, stirring well.</p>
+
+<p>(5) Last of all, put in turpentine.</p>
+
+<p>Thinners help only the flow of the paint
+never the quality.</p>
+
+<p>To strain paint thru cheese cloth before
+using will be a safeguard against lumpy colors
+and streakiness. Paint also spreads further if
+strained.</p>
+
+<p><b>27. Paint Formulas.</b>&mdash;As most toys are exposed
+to the weather a great deal, the following
+formulas are recommended. These take no
+account of tinting materials.</p>
+
+<p>(a) Priming Coat:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+25 pounds pure white lead<br />
+1 gallon pure raw linseed oil<br />
+&frac12; gallon pure turpentine<br />
+&frac14; pint drier, free from rosin<br />
+</p></div>
+
+<p>(b) Body Coat:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+25 pounds pure white lead<br />
+<sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>8</sub> gallon pure raw linseed oil<br />
+<sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>8</sub> gallon pure turpentine<br />
+&frac14; pint drier, free from rosin<br />
+</p></div>
+
+<p>(c) Finishing Coat:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+25 pounds pure white lead<br />
+1 gallon pure raw linseed oil<br />
+&frac14; pint pure turpentine<br />
+&frac14; pint drier.<br />
+</p></div>
+
+<p>One must exercise his own discretion in using
+a larger or smaller quantity of oil according to
+whether the wood is oil absorbing, as white
+pine, poplar, and basswood, or less permeable,
+as yellow pine, cypress, spruce, and hemlock.</p>
+
+<p><b>28. Formulas for Making Tinted Paint.</b>&mdash;Any
+color or tint may be obtained by varying
+the addition of tinting colors. These tinting
+colors are called "colors in oil." The colors
+should be added to the white lead before the
+paint is thinned.</p>
+
+<p>To twenty-five pounds of white lead ground
+in oil add colors in oil as follows:</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="" width="70%">
+<tr><td align='left'>Medium Blue Slate</td><td align='left'>3&frac12; oz. lamp black</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Gray Blue</td><td align='left'>&frac14; oz. lamp black</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz. Prussian blue</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>&frac14; oz. medium chrome green</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dark Drab</td><td align='left'>5 lbs. French ochre</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>&frac12; lb. lamp black</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>&frac14; lb. Venitian red</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dark Slate</td><td align='left'>2 oz. lamp black</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3 oz. medium chrome yellow</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dark Lilac</td><td align='left'>1 oz. lamp black</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>5 oz. Venitian red</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lilac</td><td align='left'>&frac12; oz. lamp black</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1&frac12; oz. Venitian red</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Forest Green</td><td align='left'>1&frac12; oz. lamp black</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>8 lbs. light green</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>5 oz. medium chrome yellow</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Buff</td><td align='left'>1&frac12; lb. French ochre</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'><sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>8</sub> oz. Venitian Red</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cream</td><td align='left'>5 oz. French ochre</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sea Green</td><td align='left'><sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>8</sub> oz. lamp black</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>&frac12; oz. medium chrome green</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1&frac14; oz. medium chrome yellow</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Where tinting colors are used in sufficiently
+large quantities to alter the consistency of the
+paint, add one-half as much linseed oil and
+turpentine, by weight, as you add tinting
+material.</p>
+
+<p><b>29. Enameling.</b>&mdash;When using enamel as a
+finish for toys, care should be taken that the
+surface of the toy is in proper condition. To
+obtain good results proceed as follows: Give the
+wood a coat of shellac. Sand lightly and dust.
+The following coat should consist of part of
+white paint and one part of the enamel to be
+used. This coat should be slightly tinted with
+the finishing color, if the finishing coat is not
+white. Allow twenty-four hours for drying
+thoroly; then sand with No. OO sand paper.
+Next apply a coat of enamel of the color desired
+for the finished work. (Enamels may be tinted
+with colors ground in oil.)</p>
+
+<p>Should the enamel not work freely, add a
+spoonful of benzine to a gallon of enamel. Turpentine
+may also be used as a thinner for
+enamel.</p>
+
+<p>A better finish of enamel consists of two coats
+of paint before applying the enamel. This gives
+it a stronger body and of course makes it more
+durable.</p>
+
+<p>Because of its durability and for sanitary
+reasons enamel is the most desirable finish for
+toys. Its glossy finish is attractive and very
+appealing to children.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>30. The Dipping Method.</b>&mdash;When a considerable
+quantity of toys is to be finished, the problem
+to be faced will be the cost of application of
+the paint rather than the cost of the paint
+itself. The dipping process, (immersing the
+material to be covered) is found to be the most
+successful, especially in toy making, where so
+many small parts are used.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the small pieces made can be subjected
+to the dipping process at quite a saving
+of time and labor, with probably better results
+than where the application of paint or stain is
+done with a brush.</p>
+
+<p>The success of the dipping process depends on
+the arrangement adopted for holding the toys
+while the actual dipping is done and while they
+are drying. Here the exercise of a little ingenuity
+on the part of the students and teacher, will
+overcome most difficulties.</p>
+
+<p>Supposing that a number of checkers, or
+handles, or small wheels are to be stained. A
+dipping frame as shown in Fig. 8 could very
+easily be prepared. You will notice the screen
+tray (which is removable), and the tin sheet
+which slopes towards the container. The small
+pieces to be stained can be handled in wire baskets
+with mesh just small enough so that the
+pieces will not fall thru.</p>
+
+<p>The wire basket is then immersed in the container
+and worked up and down, so that the
+liquid will penetrate and touch all pieces. It
+is then pulled up and swung over the screen
+tray, where the contents of the wire basket is
+dumped. Here, the superfluous paint will drip
+off on the tin sheet, which, because of its slope,
+will cause the superfluous paint to flow back
+in to the container. Fig. 9 shows the dipping
+frame in use.</p>
+
+<p>The screen tray can be removed and placed in
+a rack to allow for further drying. Several
+trays could then be made and a rack to hold them
+could very easily be constructed.</p>
+
+<p>The paint used for dipping purposes must so
+be prepared that too much does not run off or
+too much stay on, for this is surely one way to
+spoil the work. It should be thinned to the
+right consistency and care should be taken that
+the thinners used are of the best quality.</p>
+
+<p>Where larger pieces of work are to be dipped,
+wire attachments could be devised and each
+part hung separately over the dipping frame
+until ready to be placed in a rack. If the wire<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>
+attachment forms a hook on one end, it will be
+possible to hang up the toy until drained and
+dried. In removing the toy from the paint it
+should be drawn out very slowly so that the
+surface of the paint may be left as smooth as
+possible.</p>
+
+<p>Where one desires line effects on toys, these
+may be lined in afterwards with a small size
+striping brush or sign painter's pencil.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 984px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 8. Dipping frame</span>
+<img src="images/i_030.jpg" width="984" height="768" alt="Fig. 8. Dipping frame" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 970px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 9. Using the dipping frame</span>
+<img src="images/i_031.jpg" width="970" height="768" alt="Fig. 9. Using the dipping frame" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>31. Polishing by Tumbling.</b>&mdash;-Excellent results
+in polishing large quantities of small pieces,
+may be obtained by tumbling. The material
+to be polished should be thoroly dry. The
+parts are then placed in a tumbler as shown in
+Fig. 10. Cut up paraffine wax into small pieces,
+using about one-fourth pound to each tumbler
+full of toys. Allow these to tumble several
+hours. This will distribute the wax evenly over
+the parts and produce a polished surface.</p>
+
+<p>The tumbler as shown in Fig. 10 is turned by
+hand, altho it could very easily be placed in a
+lathe, where one is available.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 981px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 10. Tumbler for polishing small pieces</span>
+<img src="images/i_033.jpg" width="981" height="768" alt="Fig. 10. Tumbler for polishing small pieces" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><b>32. Care of Brushes.</b>&mdash;A suitable place should
+be provided for brushes that are not in use. A
+tin-lined keeper is recommended. Brushes
+should be suspended so that their bristles will
+not touch the bottom of the keeper, and have the
+liquid in which they are kept come well up over
+the bristles, so that none of the paint or varnish
+may dry in the butt of the brush.</p>
+
+<p><b>33. Paint Application by Means of Compressed
+Air.</b>&mdash;In recent years, great advancement has
+been made in the application of paint by means
+of compressed air. The early use of pneumatic
+painting equipment was confined almost exclusively
+to the application of finishing materials
+such as japans, enamels, lacquers, varnishes,
+etc., on manufactured products. But in the
+past few years improvements have been made
+which eliminate all of the difficulties originally
+experienced and make possible the use of this
+method for interior and exterior painting, such
+as buildings, ships, etc.; and at present, a large
+portion of factory maintenance work is done in
+this manner. Excessive fumes have been
+eliminated and all materials can be applied
+without removing the volatile thinners, solvents,
+binders, etc., thru air reduction. This is
+brought about thru the use of low pressure and
+the perfection of ingenious patent nozzles and
+other improvements.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>34. Uses of Pneumatic Sprayers.</b>&mdash;Pneumatic
+paint sprayers, or air brushes, are extensively
+used in the manufacture of toys, furniture,
+automobile bodies, sewing machines, telephones,
+electrical equipment; in fact, very nearly all
+manufactured products, as well as on ships,
+structural steel and iron work, bridges and
+buildings.</p>
+
+<p>The speed of the air brush is very great compared
+with hand-brush work. Usually, an air-brush
+operator will accomplish as much in one
+hour as a hand or bristle-brush worker will in
+one day; and it is possible to obtain an even
+coating, free from sags, runs or brush-marks
+and better results are obtained than with the
+hand brush method. A film of paint can be
+applied in one operation equal to two hand-brush
+coats, as it is not necessary to reduce
+paints by thinning as much for air brush application,
+in a great many instances, as is the usual
+practice for hand-brushing. The air sprayer
+can also reach places inaccessible to the hand
+brush, and a perfect coat can be applied over
+rough, uneven surfaces, which could not be
+obtained by hand-brushing.</p>
+
+<p>In considering pneumatic painting equipment,
+the most important thing to be kept in mind is
+the proper application of materials. This can
+be successfully accomplished only thru the use
+of compressed air at low pressures. By this is
+meant using only sufficient main-line air to lay
+the paint, enamel, varnish or whatever finish
+may be used, on the object. Excessive pressure
+results in fumes, waste of material and air reduction
+taking place. By air reduction is meant
+the removal of the more volatile solvents, thinners,
+binders, etc., thru evaporation, and the
+material thus loses its adherent and coherent
+properties.</p>
+
+<p>Both types of air-brush equipment illustrated
+here require three cubic feet of air per minute
+to operate and the pressure necessary depends
+on the density, consistency or viscosity of the
+material used. For example, undercoaters,
+japans, etc.; require from twelve to fifteen
+pounds of pressure to apply perfectly; while
+enamels and varnishes take from eighteen to
+twenty-five pounds. Water stains require about
+five pounds of pressure.</p>
+
+<p><b>35. Construction of Pneumatic Painting Outfit.</b>&mdash;A
+pneumatic painting outfit for finishing work
+consists essentially of an air brush, either of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>
+attached-container type or the gun-type with
+separate paint tank, and a small compressor of
+sufficient capacity to operate the air brush,
+which can be belt-driven from shafting or direct
+connected. An exhaust hood with fan, for the
+removal of fumes, is advisable where the operation
+is reasonably continuous and especially
+where lacquers are used. The paint, ready for
+application, is poured into the tank; and the
+compressed air line leads to the tank with a
+branch line for air and paint from the tank to
+the nozzle of the gun type of machine; while only
+the air line is required with the attached-container
+type.</p>
+
+<p>The air hose used is 5/16" in diameter while
+the paint or fluid hose is the same size. The
+paint hose is made of a special compound to
+resist the action of the thinners, solvents, etc.,
+used in the paint; and it is important to have
+this correct, so that the lining will not disintegrate
+and clog the air brush or gun.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. 11 shows a five-gallon container type.
+It will be noticed that the fluid connection is
+nearest the nozzle and that the air connection is
+at the bottom of the grip.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 11. A five-gallon air brush outfit</span>
+<img src="images/i_036.jpg" width="1024" height="743" alt="Fig. 11. A five-gallon air brush outfit" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><b>36. Special Attachments for Different Surfaces.</b>&mdash;A
+cone nozzle is furnished for painting irregular
+surfaces and a fan nozzle for wide, flat work.
+Adjusting and locking the nozzle regulates the
+degree of atomization. The jets of the fan
+nozzle are depressed to prevent being knocked
+out of alignment. Final regulation of the flow
+of material is made on the back of the gun,
+independent of the pressure on the material container.
+A wide variety of adjustment is possible
+with this positive regulation.</p>
+
+<p>The first pull on the trigger gives air only,
+which can be used for dusting ahead of the
+work; and as the trigger is released, the air
+valve closes last, which prevents clogging and
+dripping. When adjustments have been made
+the trigger action is the only moving part of
+the machine. Figs. 12 and 13 show the five-gallon
+container type in actual use.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 12. Using pneumatic paint sprayers</span>
+<img src="images/i_037.jpg" width="1024" height="647" alt="Fig. 12. Using pneumatic paint sprayers" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 13. A five-gallon outfit in actual use</span>
+<img src="images/i_038.jpg" width="1024" height="619" alt="Fig. 13. A five-gallon outfit in actual use" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><b>37. Cleaning Pneumatic Machines.</b>&mdash;It is not
+necessary to take the gun apart nor disconnect
+the hose to clean the machine. Thinner can
+be run thru the device without loss by placing
+a small can of reducer of the last material used
+in the machine, and forcing it thru in the usual
+manner.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>38. Directions for Cleaning Machine.</b>&mdash;Close
+right-hand Air Valve and open release valve.
+Unscrew air nozzle a few turns. Obstruct outlet
+with thumb and pull trigger. Spraying pressure
+is thus forced thru gun and fluid hose and
+the material backed into the container. It is
+advisable frequently to run thinner thru the
+machine as follows: (1) Place small can of thin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>ner
+in center of container directly beneath fluid
+tube. (2) Replace cover and tighten wing-nuts.
+(3) Close left-hand air valve and open right-hand
+air valve. Pressure on container will
+force thinner thru the machine and clean
+perfectly without loss. Do not use spraying
+pressure in cleaning. The thinner can be used
+again for either cleaning or thinning purposes.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 14. Attached container type of sprayer</span>
+<img src="images/i_039.jpg" width="480" height="563" alt="Fig. 14. Attached container type of sprayer" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><b>39. Directions for Operating Pneumatic Equipment.</b>&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>1. Attach main-line air hose to air filter.</p>
+
+<p>2. Attach fluid hose to connection marked
+"Fluid" on tank and to the front connection
+near air nozzle on hand-piece.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>3. Attach air hose to connection marked
+"Air" on cover and to the handle connection on
+hand-piece.</p>
+
+<p>4. Thoroly mix and strain material so that
+it is entirely free from skins, lumps, and foreign
+materials.</p>
+
+<p>5. Tighten wing-nuts until paint container
+is air-tight.</p>
+
+<p>6. See that release valve is closed. Then
+open right-hand air valve, turn fluid-pressure
+regulator until gage shows 5 lbs. pressure in
+container. Pull trigger and use fluid regulator<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>
+on gun to control the flow. If material is heavy,
+increase pressure in container.</p>
+
+<p>7. Open left-hand air valve and turn spraying
+pressure regulator until sufficient pressure
+(5 lbs. to 25 lbs.), is obtained to lay the material
+on.</p>
+
+<p>8. Make final adjustment of the flow of
+material with fluid regulator on back of hand-piece
+and get proper spray by adjusting the air
+nozzle.</p>
+
+<p>9. Spraying pressure and pressure in the
+container depends upon the density of the
+material used and the size of the surface to be
+coated. A little experimenting on the part of
+the operator will determine the best pressure to
+use. When the fan nozzle is used, 3 to 5 lbs.
+more pressure should be applied to the material
+container and from 5 to 8 lbs. more atomizing
+or spraying pressure used.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. 14 shows a complete attached container
+which operates on identically the same principles
+as the type shown in Fig. 11. It consists
+of a 1&frac12; pint container, reducing outfit, compressor,
+and air tank. The 1&frac12; pint container
+as shown in Fig. 15 is supplied complete with
+two fluid tips, gasket, agitator tube, cup-holder,
+hose union, and six feet of air hose.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 15. A one and one-half pint container and parts</span>
+<img src="images/i_040.jpg" width="1024" height="635" alt="Fig. 15. A one and one-half pint container and parts" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 640px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 16. Reducing outfit</span>
+<img src="images/i_041.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Fig. 16. Reducing outfit" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The reducing outfit in Fig. 16 consists of a
+regulative valve, an air gage, and an air filter,
+complete with connections and fittings. This
+outfit is for the purpose of maintaining an even
+low spraying pressure.</p>
+
+<p>Regulated pressure is applied to the air-tight
+material container, raising the coating<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>
+material to the nozzle where only sufficient
+main-line pressure is used to lay the coating on.
+The spraying pressure necessarily depends on
+the density, consistency and viscosity of the
+material used.</p>
+
+<p>For fine finishing work, where the quantity of
+materials used each day is not great, or where
+the colors are changed frequently, the attached
+container type is recommended.</p>
+
+<p><b>40. Preparing Colors.</b>&mdash;The three primary colors
+are red, blue and yellow. With the three
+primary colors at hand, almost every variety of
+color desirable for ordinary use can be easily
+prepared. Fig. 17 shows a color chart.</p>
+
+<p>Red mixed with yellow will result in orange.</p>
+
+<p>Red mixed with blue will result in purple.</p>
+
+<p>Yellow mixed with blue will result in green.</p>
+
+<p>The colors obtained by mixing any two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+primaries are called secondary colors. Therefor
+the secondary colors are orange, purple and
+green.</p>
+
+<p>Orange mixed with purple will result in
+brown.</p>
+
+<p>Orange mixed with green will result in olive.</p>
+
+<p>Purple mixed with green will result in slate.</p>
+
+<p>The colors obtained by mixing any two
+secondaries are called tertiary colors.</p>
+
+<p>The tertiary colors are brown, olive and
+slate.</p>
+
+<p>Of course different tones of each color can
+be made up by mixing unequal proportions.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 985px;">
+<a name="fig_17" id="fig_17"></a>
+<span class="caption">Fig. 17. Chart showing proportions required for standard colors</span>
+<img src="images/i_042.jpg" width="985" height="768" alt="Fig. 17. Chart showing proportions required for standard colors" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Common Woods Used in Toy Making</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><b>41. Economy in Selecting Material.</b>&mdash;Economic
+use of materials should be encouraged at all times.
+Toy making offers an excellent opportunity
+where economy may be taught in the
+most practical way.</p>
+
+<p>Where toys are to be painted, more than one
+kind of wood may be used in the same toy and
+thereby using up small pieces of wood that
+would otherwise be called scrap. Yet, it is not
+advisable to sacrifice the strength and durability
+of the whole toy for the sake of using up a
+piece of scrap wood which weakens the particular
+part of the toy where it is used. For that,
+in the long run, is not economy.</p>
+
+<p><b>42. Qualities of Different Woods Used.</b>&mdash;The
+following are some of the common woods used
+in toy making.</p>
+
+<p>Maple: hard, fine grained, compact, tough,
+used for wheels, axles, handles, dowel rods, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Ash: white, strong, open grained, easily
+worked; used for bodies of coasters, wheels,
+axles, oars, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Oak: hard, firm and compact, strong and
+durable, hard to work.</p>
+
+<p>Birch: moderately hard and heavy, even
+grained; difficult to split, but easily worked.</p>
+
+<p>Chestnut: resembles oak in appearance, is
+much softer, moderately hard, course grained,
+not strong, but durable.</p>
+
+<p>Cypress: moderately hard, very fine and
+close grained, virtually indestructable; known
+as "the wood eternal".</p>
+
+<p>Basswood: white, light, soft, tough, closed
+grained, easily worked, not strong, but durable;
+used for almost any part of a toy where much
+strength is not required.</p>
+
+<p>White Pine: very light, soft, close and
+straight grained, inferior; easy to work.</p>
+
+<p>Yellow Pine, yellowish, grain noticeable,
+harder than white pine, stronger.</p>
+
+<p>Tulip (yellow poplar): light, soft, close and
+straight grained; tougher than many woods
+equally soft, compact, not very strong or
+durable, easily worked.</p>
+
+<p>Spruce: straight growing, light, straight and
+even in grain, tough, elastic, easy to work.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Use of Jigs and Fixtures</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><b>43. Value of Jigs and Fixtures.</b>&mdash;The use of
+jigs, fixtures, and other labor-saving devices is
+an important factor in illustrating industrial
+and practical applications in the school shop.
+It is advisable to let each group of boys work
+out its own jig or fixture for the particular job
+they have on hand.</p>
+
+<p>The three most common forms of jigs are
+cutting jigs, boring jigs, and assembling jigs.
+The important reasons for the use of such
+devices are: (1) They illustrate the speed of
+output in shop work. (2) They give the
+student a good idea of machine operation.
+(3) They help in making the parts interchangeable.
+(4) They offer an opportunity for getting
+first hand information on cutting edge tools and
+their proper uses. (5) They show the boy the
+value of the use of jigs in factory work.</p>
+
+<p>The toys illustrated in this book have many
+simple operations, such as cutting stock to
+length, drilling holes, surfacing, etc., that can
+be easily done by the use of the proper fixtures.</p>
+
+<p>For that reason toys are desirable projects to
+be made by the productive plan. Fig. 18 shows
+the use of a jig and the miter box.</p>
+
+<p><b>44. Cutting Small Wheels.</b>&mdash;A circle of the desired
+size wheel may be laid out on the wood
+with the aid of a compass, and cut in the outline
+with a coping saw or band saw. Of course,
+it would take quite a long time by this method
+to make the small wheels in large quantities and
+besides the result would not be as good as when
+the wheels are made by machine.</p>
+
+<p><b>45. Turning Wheels.</b>&mdash;Another way to produce
+wheels is to turn a cylinder to the required
+diameter, on the turning lathe. Then cut the
+cylinder on the circular saw into required
+thicknesses of wheels desired. This method is
+recommended for quick work.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1022px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 18. Production of toys by use of jigs</span>
+<img src="images/i_045.jpg" width="1022" height="768" alt="Fig. 18. Production of toys by use of jigs" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 534px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 19. Wheel cutter in use</span>
+<img src="images/i_046.jpg" width="534" height="480" alt="Fig. 19. Wheel cutter in use" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>If it is desired to round the end of wheels the
+operation can be done by leaving the cylinder
+in the lathe and applying the broad side of the
+skew chisel as shown in Fig. 33. The wheels
+may then be polished with a cloth after they
+have been sanded and while rotating in the lathe
+as shown in Fig. 34. In sanding, use first a
+fairly course grade of sandpaper, No. 1 or 1&frac12;
+and afterwards a fine grade, No. O or OO.
+Before applying the cloth the wood may be
+varnished lightly while the lathe is not running,
+taking care to wipe off all the surplus varnish.
+The varnish will assist in giving the surface a
+fine polish when the cloth is applied. For
+further explanations of the use of the turning
+lathe, see Sec. 55.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>46. Use of Wheel Cutter.</b>&mdash;Still another method
+of making small wheels is by use of the wheel
+cutter as shown in Fig. 19. This wheel cutter
+may be used in the ordinary bit brace. Good
+results may be obtained where the wheels are
+made out of thin, soft wood.</p>
+
+<p>This wheel cutter is known on the market as
+a leather washer cutter. If one cannot be
+obtained it can easily be made in the school
+machine shop at a small cost. Fig. 20 shows a
+drawing of a wheel cutter.</p>
+
+<p>You will notice that the blade can be adjusted
+to cut any diameter desired.</p>
+
+<p><b>47. Use of Coping Saw.</b>&mdash;Where a band saw is
+not included in the shop equipment, many
+articles such as animal forms and small wheels
+could very easily be cut out with a coping saw.</p>
+
+<p>A saw board, as shown in Fig. 21 should be
+fastened to a table top with an iron clamp; or, a
+saw board made to fasten in a vise may also be
+used.</p>
+
+<p>When cutting out the toy part, the coping saw
+should be held in a vertical position as shown
+in Fig. 22, and in an up-and-down motion,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>
+with short fast strokes, following the outline
+carefully. Cut on the line. Do not press hard
+on the saw for the blade is very thin and can very
+easily be broken, but it should last a long time
+if used correctly.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 981px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 20. Details of a wheel cutter which may be made in school</span>
+<img src="images/i_047.jpg" width="981" height="768" alt="Fig. 20. Details of a wheel cutter which may be made in school" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1000px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 21. Clamping the saw board to the bench</span>
+<img src="images/i_048a.jpg" width="480" height="536" alt="Fig. 21. Clamping the saw board to the bench" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 22. Correct method of holding coping saw</span>
+<img src="images/i_048b.jpg" width="480" height="504" alt="Fig. 22. Correct method of holding coping saw" title="" />
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 23. Removing the saw-blade</span>
+<img src="images/i_049.jpg" width="480" height="491" alt="Fig. 23. Removing the saw-blade" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><b>48. Cutting Sharp Corners.</b>&mdash;When cutting a
+sharp turn in the wood with the coping saw,
+care should be taken not to twist the saw blade
+out of shape. Upon reaching the sharp turn,
+continue the up-and-down motion, but without
+doing any cutting; turn the wood very slowly
+until you have made the complete turn, then
+continue with the sawing and follow the rest of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>
+the outline carefully.</p>
+
+<p><b>49. Removing the Saw-Blade from Frame.</b>&mdash;To
+remove the saw-blade from the frame, place
+the head of the frame against the table top as
+shown in Fig. 23. Pressing down on the handle
+will release the saw-blade. When inserting
+the blade into the frame the same method may
+be followed, being careful that the teeth of the
+saw-blade point toward the handle of the frame.
+The blade may be put in the end or the side
+slots of the frame, using the side slots only
+when the end slots will not serve the purpose.</p>
+
+<p><b>50. Making Heavy Wheels.</b>&mdash;In turning heavier
+wheels that are to be used for coasters,
+kiddie cars, etc., the work is done with the
+head stock only, the wood being supported by
+the screw-center chuck or face plate.</p>
+
+<p>In turning the wheel the first step is the
+scraping cut as shown in Fig. 24. This cut is
+properly made with the concave chisel held in
+such a position as to give a light scraping cut.
+Care should be exercised not to allow the chisel
+to extend too deeply, otherwise the material
+will chip with the grain.</p>
+
+<p>After the desired circumference has been obtained
+the surface should be worked to the
+desired form as shown in Fig. 25. This is accomplished
+by using the lathe rest, set at right
+angles with the bed or parallel with the face
+plate. The illustration in Fig. 26 shows the use
+of the dividers in marking off the position of
+the various corrugations in the wheel that is
+being turned. The sanding should be done while<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+the wheel is in the lathe. Use first a fairly
+course grade of sand paper and afterwards a
+fine grade, No. O or OO.</p>
+
+<p><b>51. Designs for Wheels.</b>&mdash;Suggestions for
+wooden toy wheels are shown in Fig. 27. Those
+numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 are plain wooden
+wheels varying in design only. No. 8 and 9
+are re-enforced with zinc and large iron washers.
+No. 10 shows a segment of an iron pipe fitted in
+the center of the wheel to prevent wearing
+away of material. No. 11 shows a spoke wheel.
+The spokes are made of dowel rods; these
+fitting into a hub that can easily be turned out
+on the lathe. No. 13 shows a wheel built in
+segments which is then cut out on the band
+saw to resemble a standard spoke wheel. The
+rim is 1/8" steel, fastened to spokes with very
+small rivets.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 484px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 24. Making heavy wheels. The scraping cut</span>
+<img src="images/i_050.jpg" width="484" height="384" alt="Fig. 24. Making heavy wheels. The scraping cut" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><b>52. Cutting Wheels on Band-Saw.</b>&mdash;A circle of
+the required size wheel may be marked off on
+the wood with a compass, then cut in the outline
+on the band-saw. This method will leave
+square corners and will be more or less out of
+truth with the center of the wheel. To true up
+and smooth the outside of the wheel the lathe
+attachment as shown in Fig. 28 can be easily
+prepared. This attachment consists of a block <i>A</i>
+fastened to the lathe bed with a single bolt,
+and a stop <i>B</i> fastened to the upper face of the
+block <i>A</i>. The carriage <i>C</i> is a loose piece the
+same thickness as the stop <i>B</i> and is provided
+with a dowel rod to fit the central hole in the
+wheel. This dowel rod is so located that
+when the edge of the carriage <i>C</i> is tight against
+the edge of the stop <i>D</i>, the distance from the
+center of the dowel rod to the face of the abra<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>sive
+material on the disk, will be equal to the
+radius of the finished wheel.</p>
+
+<p>The wood is cut out on the band saw a scant
+1/16" over-size in diameter, and is then placed
+on the dowel rod in the carriage <i>C</i> which is
+held flat on block <i>A</i> while the edge of the
+blank is brought in contact with the grinding
+disc face by pushing the carriage forward with
+the left hand while the blank is slowly revolved
+with the right. This grinding is continued until
+the edges of stop <i>B</i> and carriage <i>C</i> will remain
+in contact during a complete revolution of the
+wheel blank. During this grinding process, the
+carriage should be moved back and forth from
+the edge to the center of the grinding disc
+so that the wear on the abrasive material may
+be equalized.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1050px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 507px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 25. Smoothing the side of wheels</span>
+<img src="images/i_051a.jpg" width="507" height="384" alt="Fig. 25. Smoothing the side of wheels" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 506px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 26. Using dividers to mark for cuts</span>
+<img src="images/i_051b.jpg" width="506" height="384" alt="Fig. 26. Using dividers to mark for cuts" title="" />
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+<p>A similar device used for chamfering the edges
+of the blanks is also shown in Fig. 28, as it
+looks when viewed from the front of the lathe.
+The preceding description will suffice for this
+as the same system of lettering has been used.
+It differs only in that block <i>A</i> is made to set at
+an angle of 45 degrees instead of being level.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 979px;">
+<a name="fig_27" id="fig_27"></a>
+<span class="caption">Fig. 27. Many ways of making wheels for toys</span>
+<img src="images/i_052.jpg" width="979" height="768" alt="Fig. 27. Many ways of making wheels for toys" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 978px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 28. Simple attachments which may be made for lathe</span>
+<img src="images/i_053.jpg" width="978" height="768" alt="Fig. 28. Simple attachments which may be made for lathe" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Grinding discs may be made either of metal
+or wood. Metal is preferable but a hardwood
+disc fastened to a metal face plate will answer
+very well. There are many methods of fastening
+the abrasing material to the disc but the
+most convenient way is by the use of stick belt
+dressing. The disc is coated with dressing by
+holding the stick against it as it revolves and
+the abrasive is applied before the dressing has
+set. A pair of dividers or trammels is used to
+cut the abrasive material to the same diameter
+as the disc and it should be warmed on the
+uncoated side before it is applied. It sticks
+tightly to the disc but is easily removed
+and replaced with fresh material in a few
+minutes.</p>
+
+<p><b>53. Boring Holes in Wheels.</b>&mdash;The center holes
+in wheels may be bored with bit and brace, but
+better results are obtained if the holes are bored
+in the lathe. A drill chuck fitted to the live
+spindle and a drilling pad for the tail stock
+spindle will be required to do this job efficiently.
+The tail stock is locked fast and the wheel to be
+drilled is placed against the drilling pad and
+fed up to the revolving bit by turning the tail
+spindle feed wheel. This method will produce
+a cleaner hole and one that is square with the
+wheel face.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Operation of Woodworking Machines</span></h2>
+
+
+<p><b>54. Importance of Machine Operations.</b>&mdash;A
+fair understanding of what is the correct
+position to take at some of the principal
+machines such as the lathe, universal saw,
+jointer, and sander, is very important to the
+student in the wood-working department. Such
+knowledge is of special importance to the one
+engaged in toy making, where every knowledge
+of use of machines, is put to the test.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1050px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 500px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 29. The roughing cut</span>
+<img src="images/i_055a.jpg" width="500" height="480" alt="Fig. 29. The roughing cut" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 500px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 30. The sizing cut</span>
+<img src="images/i_055b.jpg" width="500" height="480" alt="Fig. 30. The sizing cut" title="" />
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+<p>Sufficient examples are given to enable the
+student to arrive at a fair understanding of the
+correct postures.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>55. Operating the Lathe.</b>&mdash;The lathe is perhaps
+one of the most important machines used in
+toy making. It lends itself to unlimited varieties
+of work and for that reason is really indispensible
+in the shop.</p>
+
+<p>In Fig. 29 the student is preparing to take the
+<i>roughing cut</i> in turning a cylinder. This
+operation consists of removing the corners of
+the square piece and is done with the tool known
+as the <i>gouge</i>.</p>
+
+<p>After the roughing cut has been taken, calipers
+set to the diameter desired will determine
+the depth of the next cut, <i>sizing cut</i>. The
+illustration in Fig. 30 shows the student performing
+this operation with the <i>cut-off tool</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1050px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 504px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 31. The paring cut</span>
+<img src="images/i_056a.jpg" width="504" height="408" alt="Fig. 31. The paring cut" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 504px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 32. Using the cut-off tool</span>
+<img src="images/i_056b.jpg" width="504" height="413" alt="Fig. 32. Using the cut-off tool" title="" />
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+<p>When the correct dimension has been found,
+the next step in the process of turning a cylinder
+is the <i>paring cut</i> or finishing cut, Fig. 31. This
+is done with the <i>skew</i> or <i>bevel chisel</i>. A very thin
+shaving is removed by this operation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The ends are then cut by using the cut-off tool
+as shown in Fig. 32. It is merely taking a
+slice off the end. If a very thin slice is to be
+removed, it is usually made by the long point of
+the skew chisel. If it is more than a quarter of
+an inch it should be <i>sized</i> and then removed
+by the skew.</p>
+
+<p>If it is desired to round the end of a piece or
+to produce a convex surface the operation can
+be done by applying the broad side of the skew
+chisel, as in Fig. 33.</p>
+
+<p><b>56. Face Plate Turning.</b>&mdash;The preceding paragraphs
+describe the process of turning when
+the piece is supported between the live and the
+dead centers. The processes shown in Figs.
+24, 25 and 26, illustrate the character of the
+work done with the head stock only when the
+piece is supported by the screw-center chuck
+or face plate.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1050px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 501px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 33. Making convex surfaces</span>
+<img src="images/i_057a.jpg" width="501" height="384" alt="Fig. 33. Making convex surfaces" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 502px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 34. Polishing wood in lathe</span>
+<img src="images/i_057b.jpg" width="502" height="446" alt="Fig. 34. Polishing wood in lathe" title="" />
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+<p>The first step in face plate turning is the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>
+scraping cut, Fig. 24. This cut is properly
+made with the concave chisel held in such a
+position as to give a light scraping cut. Care
+should be exercised not to allow the chisel to
+extend too deeply, otherwise the material will
+chip with the grain. After the desired circumference
+has been obtained the surface should
+be smoothed with the skew chisel.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 35. Cutting off stock</span>
+<img src="images/i_058a.jpg" width="480" height="510" alt="Fig. 35. Cutting off stock" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 36. Fluting on circular saw</span>
+<img src="images/i_058b.jpg" width="480" height="530" alt="Fig. 36. Fluting on circular saw" title="" />
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+<p>Fig. 25 shows the student modeling a rosette,
+using the rest, set at right angles with the bed
+or parallel with the face plate. Prior to the
+modeling a shearing cut should be taken with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>
+the skew chisel to face off the material to an
+even surface.</p>
+
+<p>The illustration in Fig. 26 shows the use of
+the dividers. The student is marking off to a
+uniform scale the position of the various corrugations
+in the rosette he is turning.</p>
+
+<p><b>57. The Universal Saw.</b>&mdash;The operations that
+can be performed on the universal saw are so
+many that no attempt will be made to illustrate
+them all here. But enough are given to show
+the characteristic operations involved in cross-cutting,
+ripping, and dadoing,&mdash;the three basic
+uses of a circular saw.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 37. Cutting with special fence</span>
+<img src="images/i_059a.jpg" width="480" height="547" alt="Fig. 37. Cutting with special fence" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 38. Grooving, or ripping special work</span>
+<img src="images/i_059b.jpg" width="480" height="509" alt="Fig. 38. Grooving, or ripping special work" title="" />
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It is a more dangerous tool than the lathe and
+the guard should be kept over the saw at all
+times, except of course, in dadoing when it can
+not be used.</p>
+
+<p>Figs. 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, illustrate the basic
+uses of a circular saw.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1050px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 39. Cutting segments</span>
+<img src="images/i_060a.jpg" width="480" height="495" alt="Fig. 39. Cutting segments" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 40. Surfacing board on jointer</span>
+<img src="images/i_060b.jpg" width="480" height="523" alt="Fig. 40. Surfacing board on jointer" title="" />
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+<p><b>58. The Hand Jointer.</b>&mdash;The great variety of
+work that can be done on a hand jointer depends
+very largely upon the knowledge and skill of
+the operator. It lends itself to so many operations,
+that the student gains much in knowledge
+and efficiency.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1050px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 41. Cutting bevels on jointer</span>
+<img src="images/i_061a.jpg" width="480" height="509" alt="Fig. 41. Cutting bevels on jointer" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 42. Jointing the edge</span>
+<img src="images/i_061b.jpg" width="480" height="515" alt="Fig. 42. Jointing the edge" title="" />
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+<p>The five operations shown in Figs. 40, 41, 42,
+43 and 44, give a fair idea of the scope of work
+that is usually accomplished on a hand jointer
+and show something of the method by which
+the work should be done.</p>
+
+<p>The jointer is another tool where the use of
+the guard should never be omitted.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1050px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 43. Rabetting on the jointer</span>
+<img src="images/i_062a.jpg" width="480" height="621" alt="Fig. 43. Rabetting on the jointer" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 44. Cutting miter joints</span>
+<img src="images/i_062b.jpg" width="480" height="618" alt="Fig. 44. Cutting miter joints" title="" />
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+
+<p><b>59. The Sander.</b>&mdash;The sander is an interesting
+machine in the school shop for on it considerable
+"forming" can be done as with the lathe, altho
+its prime use is to make smooth or polish.</p>
+
+<p>In Fig. 45 the boy at the left is forming a mitre
+while the one on the right is smoothing surface.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 768px;">
+<span class="caption">Fig. 45. The machine sander in operation</span>
+<img src="images/i_063.jpg" width="768" height="786" alt="Fig. 45. The machine sander in operation" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p>
+<h1><a name="PART_II" id="PART_II"></a>PART II.</h1>
+
+<h1><span class="smcap">Drawings For Toys</span></h1>
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 969px;">
+<a name="Pl_1" id="Pl_1"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_065.jpg" width="969" height="768" alt="PLATE 1" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 1</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 994px;">
+<a name="Pl_2" id="Pl_2"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_066.jpg" width="994" height="768" alt="PLATE 2" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 2</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 994px;">
+<a name="Pl_3" id="Pl_3"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_067.jpg" width="994" height="768" alt="PLATE 3" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 3</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 992px;">
+<a name="Pl_4" id="Pl_4"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_068.jpg" width="992" height="768" alt="PLATE 4" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 4</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 994px;">
+<a name="Pl_5" id="Pl_5"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_069.jpg" width="994" height="768" alt="PLATE 5" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 5</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 998px;">
+<a name="Pl_6" id="Pl_6"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_070.jpg" width="998" height="768" alt="PLATE 6" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 6</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 966px;">
+<a name="Pl_7" id="Pl_7"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_071.jpg" width="966" height="768" alt="PLATE 7" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 7</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 997px;">
+<a name="Pl_8" id="Pl_8"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_072.jpg" width="997" height="768" alt="PLATE 8" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 8</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 989px;">
+<a name="Pl_9" id="Pl_9"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_073.jpg" width="989" height="768" alt="PLATE 9" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 9</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 996px;">
+<a name="Pl_10" id="Pl_10"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_074.jpg" width="996" height="768" alt="PLATE 10" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 10</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 997px;">
+<a name="Pl_11" id="Pl_11"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_075.jpg" width="997" height="768" alt="PLATE 11" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 11</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1005px;">
+<a name="Pl_12" id="Pl_12"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_076.jpg" width="1005" height="768" alt="PLATE 12" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 12</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 987px;">
+<a name="Pl_13" id="Pl_13"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_077.jpg" width="987" height="768" alt="PLATE 13" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 13</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 984px;">
+<a name="Pl_14" id="Pl_14"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_078.jpg" width="984" height="768" alt="PLATE 14" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 14</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 995px;">
+<a name="Pl_15" id="Pl_15"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_079.jpg" width="995" height="768" alt="PLATE 15" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 15</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 985px;">
+<a name="Pl_16" id="Pl_16"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_080.jpg" width="985" height="768" alt="PLATE 16" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 16</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 991px;">
+<a name="Pl_17" id="Pl_17"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_081.jpg" width="991" height="768" alt="PLATE 17" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 17</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 989px;">
+<a name="Pl_18" id="Pl_18"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_082.jpg" width="989" height="768" alt="PLATE 18" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 18</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 963px;">
+<a name="Pl_19" id="Pl_19"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_083.jpg" width="963" height="768" alt="PLATE 19" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 19</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 970px;">
+<a name="Pl_20" id="Pl_20"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_084.jpg" width="970" height="768" alt="PLATE 20" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 20</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 963px;">
+<a name="Pl_21" id="Pl_21"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_085.jpg" width="963" height="768" alt="PLATE 21" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 21</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 970px;">
+<a name="Pl_22" id="Pl_22"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_086.jpg" width="970" height="768" alt="PLATE 22" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 22</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 981px;">
+<a name="Pl_23" id="Pl_23"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_087.jpg" width="981" height="768" alt="PLATE 23" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 23</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 972px;">
+<a name="Pl_24" id="Pl_24"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_088.jpg" width="972" height="768" alt="PLATE 24" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 24</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 976px;">
+<a name="Pl_25" id="Pl_25"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_089.jpg" width="976" height="768" alt="PLATE 25" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 25</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 974px;">
+<a name="Pl_26" id="Pl_26"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_090.jpg" width="974" height="768" alt="PLATE 26" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 26</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 984px;">
+<a name="Pl_27" id="Pl_27"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_091.jpg" width="984" height="768" alt="PLATE 27" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 27</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 980px;">
+<a name="Pl_28" id="Pl_28"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_092.jpg" width="980" height="768" alt="PLATE 28" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 28</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 971px;">
+<a name="Pl_29" id="Pl_29"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_093.jpg" width="971" height="768" alt="PLATE 29" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 29</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 960px;">
+<a name="Pl_30" id="Pl_30"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_094.jpg" width="960" height="768" alt="PLATE 30" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 30</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 985px;">
+<a name="Pl_31" id="Pl_31"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_095.jpg" width="985" height="768" alt="PLATE 31" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 31</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 997px;">
+<a name="Pl_32" id="Pl_32"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_096.jpg" width="997" height="768" alt="PLATE 32" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 32</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 983px;">
+<a name="Pl_33" id="Pl_33"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_097.jpg" width="983" height="768" alt="PLATE 33" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 33</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 971px;">
+<a name="Pl_34" id="Pl_34"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_098.jpg" width="971" height="768" alt="PLATE 34" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 34</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 978px;">
+<a name="Pl_35" id="Pl_35"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_099.jpg" width="978" height="768" alt="PLATE 35" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 35</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 967px;">
+<a name="Pl_36" id="Pl_36"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_100.jpg" width="967" height="768" alt="PLATE 36" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 36</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 960px;">
+<a name="Pl_37" id="Pl_37"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_101.jpg" width="960" height="768" alt="PLATE 37" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 37</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 984px;">
+<a name="Pl_38" id="Pl_38"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_102.jpg" width="984" height="768" alt="PLATE 38" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 38</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 963px;">
+<a name="Pl_39" id="Pl_39"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_103.jpg" width="963" height="768" alt="PLATE 39" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 39</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1000px;">
+<a name="Pl_40" id="Pl_40"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_104.jpg" width="1000" height="768" alt="PLATE 40" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 40</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 980px;">
+<a name="Pl_41" id="Pl_41"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_105.jpg" width="980" height="768" alt="PLATE 41" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 41</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 991px;">
+<a name="Pl_42" id="Pl_42"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_106.jpg" width="991" height="768" alt="PLATE 42" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 42</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 971px;">
+<a name="Pl_43" id="Pl_43"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_107.jpg" width="971" height="768" alt="PLATE 43" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 43</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1002px;">
+<a name="Pl_44" id="Pl_44"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_108.jpg" width="1002" height="768" alt="PLATE 44" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 44</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 984px;">
+<a name="Pl_45" id="Pl_45"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_109.jpg" width="984" height="768" alt="PLATE 45" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 45</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 989px;">
+<a name="Pl_46" id="Pl_46"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_110.jpg" width="989" height="768" alt="PLATE 46" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 46</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 954px;">
+<a name="Pl_47" id="Pl_47"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_111.jpg" width="954" height="768" alt="PLATE 47" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 47</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 976px;">
+<a name="Pl_48" id="Pl_48"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_112.jpg" width="976" height="768" alt="PLATE 48" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 48</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 971px;">
+<a name="Pl_49" id="Pl_49"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_113.jpg" width="971" height="768" alt="PLATE 49" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 49</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 995px;">
+<a name="Pl_50" id="Pl_50"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_114.jpg" width="995" height="768" alt="PLATE 50" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 50</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 983px;">
+<a name="Pl_51" id="Pl_51"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_115.jpg" width="983" height="768" alt="PLATE 51" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 51</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 991px;">
+<a name="Pl_52" id="Pl_52"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_116.jpg" width="991" height="768" alt="PLATE 52" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 52</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 972px;">
+<a name="Pl_53" id="Pl_53"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_117.jpg" width="972" height="768" alt="PLATE 53" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 53</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 994px;">
+<a name="Pl_54" id="Pl_54"></a>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i_118.jpg" width="994" height="768" alt="PLATE 54" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PLATE 54</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 80%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p>
+<h2>INDEX</h2>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>A</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Auto kar, <a href="#Pl_41">Plate 41</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Auto racer, <a href="#Pl_9">Plate 9</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Auto Roadster, <a href="#Pl_8">Plate 8</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>B</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bats, base ball, <a href="#Pl_54">Plate 54</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bazaars, toy sales, etc.</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Bed, doll's, Plates <a href="#Pl_22">22</a>, <a href="#Pl_23">23</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Boring holes in wheels</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Brushes, care of</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Buffet, <a href="#Pl_14">Plate 14</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_77">77</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>C</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Car, baby's, <a href="#Pl_36">Plate 36</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Car, passenger, <a href="#Pl_10">Plate 10</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cars, auto, motor, choo-choo, Plates <a href="#Pl_41">41</a>, <a href="#Pl_42">42</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cart, baby's, <a href="#Pl_3">Plate 3</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cart, hay, <a href="#Pl_4">Plate 4</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Carriage, dolls, <a href="#Pl_17">Plate 17</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chair &amp; rocker, <a href="#Pl_13">Plate 13</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chair, baby's, <a href="#Pl_47">Plate 47</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_110">110</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Checker board, <a href="#Pl_45">Plate 45</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Check, credit, <a href="#fig_7">Fig. 7</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Coasters, Plates <a href="#Pl_26">26</a>, <a href="#Pl_37">37</a>, <a href="#Pl_39">39</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Coloring toys</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Sanitation emphasized</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Preparation of surfaces</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Application of water colors</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Analine water stains</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Formulas for analine water stains</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Oil stains</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Shellacking</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Varnishing</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Points on varnishing</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Color varnish</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Use of paint</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Dipping method</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Polishing by tumbling</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Paint application by compressed air</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Colors, preparing</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Color chart, <a href="#fig_17">Fig. 17</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Contents, Table of</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Coping saw, use of</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Correlation</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Costumer, child's, <a href="#Pl_46">Plate 46</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>D</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Doll's house, Plates <a href="#Pl_50">50</a>, <a href="#Pl_51">51</a>, <a href="#Pl_52">52</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dipping frame</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Drawings for toys</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dumb bell, <a href="#Pl_53">Plate 53</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>E</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Enameling</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>F</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Foremen, shop</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fox &amp; geese game, <a href="#Pl_1">Plate 1</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Furniture, doll<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>G</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Game board, "Bean Bag," Plate 19</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Game board, "Fox &amp; Geese," Plate 1</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Grading students</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>H</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Horse head, <a href="#Pl_5">Plate 5</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Horse on wheels, <a href="#Pl_6">Plate 6</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>House, doll's, Plates <a href="#Pl_50">50</a>, <a href="#Pl_51">51</a>, <a href="#Pl_52">52</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>I</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Indian club, <a href="#Pl_53">Plate 53</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>J</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Jigs &amp; fixtures</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Jointer, hand</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>K</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Kiddie kars, Plates <a href="#Pl_27">27</a>, <a href="#Pl_28">28</a>, <a href="#Pl_29">29</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>L</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lathe, operating the</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>M</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Machines, operating of woodworking</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>N</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Noah's ark, <a href="#Pl_18">Plate 18</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>O</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Organization, plan for shop</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>P</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Paint, use of</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Ingredients of</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Application</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Preparation of surface</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Tinting materials</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Mixing</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Formulas</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Formulas for tinted paint</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Enameling</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Plan for shop organization</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Grouping students</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Time clerk</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Tool-room clerk</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Recording attendance</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Time-card rack</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Time cards</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Grading students</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Accomplishment sheet</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; Preparation for shop work</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pneumatic equipment</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Preface</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Productive work</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>R</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ring toss, <a href="#Pl_2">Plate 2</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rocking chair, <a href="#Pl_13">Plate 13</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rocker, duck, <a href="#Pl_35">Plate 35</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rocker, ducky loo, <a href="#Pl_34">Plate 34</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rock-a-doodle, <a href="#Pl_31">Plate 31</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>S</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sand box, Plates <a href="#Pl_48">48</a>, <a href="#Pl_49">49</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sander</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Saw, universal</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Scooter, <a href="#Pl_25">Plate 25</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sleds, Plates <a href="#Pl_32">32</a>, <a href="#Pl_33">33</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sprayer, pneumatic air<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sprayer, directions for operating</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Speedster, duplex, <a href="#Pl_30">Plate 30</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Stain, oil</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Stain, analine water</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Stilts, adjustable, <a href="#Pl_24">Plate 24</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Suggestions to teachers</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Swing, child's, Plates <a href="#Pl_20">20</a>, <a href="#Pl_21">21</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>T</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Table for doll house, <a href="#Pl_12">Plate 12</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Teeter-totter, <a href="#Pl_43">Plate 43</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Teeter-rocker, <a href="#Pl_44">Plate 44</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Time clerk</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Time cards</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tool-room clerk</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Toy sales</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Trailer, kido-kar, <a href="#Pl_7">Plate 7</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tumbler, drawing of</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Tumbling, polishing by</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>V</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Varnishing</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Varnish, colored</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Varnishing, points on</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>W</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wagon, milk, <a href="#Pl_11">Plate 11</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Water colors</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wax polishing</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wheel-barrow, toy, <a href="#Pl_15">Plate 15</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wheel-barrow, horse design, <a href="#Pl_16">Plate 16</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wheel cutter</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wheels, cutting small</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wheels, designs, <a href="#fig_27">Fig. 27</a></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Wheels, turning</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Woods used in toy making</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Advanced Toy Making for Schools, by David M.
+Mitchell
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Advanced Toy Making for Schools
+
+
+Author: David M. Mitchell
+
+
+
+Release Date: July 22, 2011  [eBook #36815]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVANCED TOY MAKING FOR SCHOOLS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Chris Curnow and the Online Distributed Proofreading
+Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by
+Internet Archive (http://www.archive.org)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 36815-h.htm or 36815-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/36815/36815-h/36815-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/36815/36815-h.zip)
+
+
+      Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive. See
+      http://www.archive.org/details/advancedtoymakin00mitc
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+      Text enclosed by "pound" or "number" signs is in bold
+      face (#bold#).
+
+
+
+
+
+ADVANCED TOY MAKING FOR SCHOOLS
+
+by
+
+DAVID M. MITCHELL
+
+Instructor Manual Arts
+Willson Junior High School, Cleveland, Ohio
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Manual Arts Press
+Peoria, Illinois
+
+Copyright 1922
+David M. Mitchell
+12 B 22
+
+Printed in United States of America
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+Toys are today regarded as educational factors in the life of boys and
+girls. New toys come into demand at frequent intervals in the growth and
+mental development of the child. On account of the unfailing interest on
+the part of the pupils in toys and because of the unlimited educational
+possibilities contained in toy making, this work is rightfully taking an
+increasingly important place in the manual arts program in the schools.
+
+This book is the outgrowth of toy-making problems given to junior-high
+and high-school pupils. The author claims no originality for some of the
+toys. However, most of them have been originated or improved upon in the
+author's classes.
+
+While it is entirely satisfactory to have any of the toys mentioned in
+this book made as individual projects, they are here offered as suitable
+group projects or production projects, and it is hoped that the
+suggested form of shop organization for production work as treated in
+Part I is flexible enough so that the plan can be applied to most any
+shop conditions.
+
+The drawings of toys in Part II will suggest a variety of articles which
+may be used in carrying out the production work.
+
+Of course, the success of organizing and conducting classes for this
+kind of work depends largely upon the instructor. He must know
+definitely what he is trying to get done. He must adopt and pursue such
+methods of dealing with both the members of the class and the material
+as will contribute directly towards the desired end.
+
+Toy making carried on by the so-called productive plan, if handled
+properly, will bring out many of the essentials of an organization
+typical of the commercial industries. Together with its educational
+possibilities and its power to attract the attention of those engaged in
+this activity, toy making will rightfully take its place alongside other
+important subjects offered in a complete industrial arts course.
+
+The author wishes to acknowledge his indebtedness to William E.
+Roberts, supervisor of manual training, Cleveland Public Schools, for
+valuable suggestions and inspiration; to Joseph A. Shelley, Jersey City,
+N. J., for suggestions on finishing kiddie car wheels; to the Eclipse
+Air Brush Company, Newark, N. J., for valuable information and
+photographs of air brush equipment; and to the American Wood Working
+Machinery Co., for the use of the illustrations showing the operation of
+the turning lathe, universal saw, and other woodworking machines.
+
+                                                        D. M. MITCHELL
+
+Cleveland, Ohio, 1921.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+PART I
+
+OPERATIONS IN TOY MAKING
+
+  CHAPTER I. PRODUCTIVE WORK                                        11
+
+    1. Suggested plan for shop organization. 2. Grouping
+    of students. 3. The time clerk and tool-room clerk.
+    4. Recording attendance. 5. Time cards. 6. Using time
+    card. 7. Grading students. 8. Preliminary discussion and
+    preparation for shopwork. 9. Bazaars, toy sales, etc.
+
+  CHAPTER II. COLORING TOYS                                         21
+
+    10. Sanitation emphasized. 11. Preparation of surfaces.
+    12. Application of water colors. 13. Analine water stains.
+    14. Formulas for analine water stains. 15. Oil stains.
+    16. Shellacking. 17. Varnishing. 18. Points on Varnishing.
+    19. Colored varnish. 20. Another suggestion for finishing.
+    21. Use of paint. 22. Ingredients of good paint.
+    23. Application of paint. 24. Preparation of surface.
+    25. Tinting materials. 26. Mixing paints. 27. Paint formulas.
+    28. Formulas for making tinted paint. 29. Enameling.
+    30. The dipping method. 31. Polishing by tumbling. 32. Care of
+    brushes. 33. Paint application by means of compressed air.
+    34. Uses of pneumatic sprayers. 35. Construction of pneumatic
+    painting outfit. 36. Special attachments for different surfaces.
+    37. Cleaning pneumatic machines. 38. Directions for cleaning
+    machine. 39. Directions for operating pneumatic equipment.
+    40. Preparing colors.
+
+  CHAPTER III. COMMON WOODS USED IN TOY MAKING                      42
+
+    41. Economy in selecting material. 42. Qualities of
+    different woods used.
+
+  CHAPTER IV. USE OF JIGS AND FIXTURES                              43
+
+    43. Value of jigs and fixtures. 44. Cutting small wheels.
+    45. Turning wheels. 46. Use of wheel cutter. 47. Use of
+    coping saw. 48. Cutting sharp corners. 49. Removing the
+    saw-blade from frame. 50. Making heavy wheels. 51. Designs
+    for wheels. 52. Cutting wheels on band-saw. 53. Boring
+    holes in wheels.
+
+  CHAPTER V. OPERATION OF WOODWORKING MACHINES                      54
+
+    54. Importance of machine operations. 55. Operating the
+    lathe. 56. Face plate turning. 57. The universal saw.
+    58. The hand jointer. 59. The sander.
+
+
+PART II
+
+DRAWINGS FOR TOYS
+
+                                                                  PAGE
+  Plate  1. Fox and Geese Game                                      64
+    "    2. Ring Toss                                               65
+    "    3. Baby's Cart                                             66
+    "    4. Hay Cart                                                67
+    "    5. Horse Head                                              68
+    "    6. Horse on Wheels                                         69
+    "    7. Kido Kar Trailer                                        70
+    "    8. Auto Roadster                                           71
+    "    9. Auto Racer                                              72
+    "   10. Passenger Car                                           73
+    "   11. Milk Wagon                                              74
+    "   12. Table for Doll House                                    75
+    "   13. Chair and Rocker                                        76
+    "   14. Buffet                                                  77
+    "   15. Toy Wheel-Barrow                                        78
+    "   16. Horse Barrow                                            79
+    "   17. Doll's Carriage                                         80
+    "   18. Noah's Ark                                              81
+    "   19. "Bean Bag" Game Board                                   82
+    "   20. Child's Swing No. 1                                     83
+    "   21. Child's Swing No. 2                                     84
+    "   22. Doll's Bed, No. 1                                       85
+    "   23. Doll's Bed, No. 2                                       86
+    "   24. Adjustable Stilts                                       87
+    "   25. Scooter                                                 88
+    "   26. Steering Coaster                                        89
+    "   27. Kido Kar                                                90
+    "   28. Kid Kar Junior                                          91
+    "   29. Pony Kar                                                92
+    "   30. Duplex Speedster                                        93
+    "   31. Rock-a-Doodle                                           94
+    "   32. Sled                                                    95
+    "   33. "Sturdy Flyer" Sled                                     96
+    "   34. Ducky Loo                                               97
+    "   35. Duck Rocker                                             98
+    "   36. Jitney                                                  99
+    "   37. Junior Roadster                                        100
+    "   38. Details of Junior Roadster                             101
+    "   39. Senior Coaster                                         102
+    "   40. Details of Senior Coaster                              103
+    "   41. Auto-Kar                                               104
+    "   42. Choo-Choo-Kar                                          105
+    "   43. Teeter-Totter                                          106
+    "   44. Teeter Rocker                                          107
+    "   45. Checker Board                                          108
+    "   46. Child's Costumer                                       109
+    "   47. Baby's Chair                                           110
+    "   48. Children's Sand Box                                    111
+    "   49. Sand Box No. 2                                         112
+    "   50. Doll's House No. 1                                     113
+    "   51. Doll's House No. 2                                     114
+    "   52. Doll's House No. 2                                     115
+    "   53. Dumb Bell & Indian Club                                116
+    "   54. Bats                                                   117
+
+
+
+
+SUGGESTIONS TO TEACHERS
+
+
+Where the work is to be done on the so-called productive basis, it is of
+utmost importance that, before starting, the classes should be so
+organized as to allow the work to be carried on in the most efficient,
+progressive manner. The form of shop organization suggested in this book
+is recommended. However, the instructor may, particularly if he has had
+good practical shop experience, employ other methods of organization
+that are just as good and possibly even better for his particular class
+and the conditions under which he has to work.
+
+It is also of great importance that the instructor should acquaint
+himself with the processes involved in the making of each toy before
+allowing the class to begin it. This may be accomplished by the making
+of a sample of the contemplated project, carefully analyzing its
+different parts and arranging the operations in a logical sequence.
+This phase of the work may be done during class discussions and
+demonstrations at which time the different jigs and fixtures needed for
+progressive production may also be developed.
+
+The different methods of coloring toys have been suggested with the hope
+that the student will gain a realization of the importance of finishing,
+from both the artistic and the practical point of view. The application
+of paint by means of compressed air is the latest development in the
+coloring of toys, and an equipment in the school shop illustrating the
+principles of compressed air as applied to productive finishing of toys,
+is a step forward in making school shops function as they should.
+
+The working drawings in this book should serve as suggestions. They have
+been so constructed as to be free from unnecessary technicalities, and
+to leave as much opportunity as possible for the exercise and
+development of the student's judgment.
+
+It will be found that toy making offers itself readily to the desired
+co-operation and correlation with other departments in the school. For
+instance, the art department may aid with the designing and color scheme
+to be used on toys; the general metal shop may help in the making of
+necessary metal parts: the mechanical drawing department can co-operate
+in the making of working drawings; the mathematics department can figure
+the costs of production, etc., etc.
+
+It is hoped that the purpose of this book is not merely to set forth a
+few plans and drawings for the construction of toys, but to give the
+work the broadest possible application; creating a constructive
+influence on the minds of the students, in which case it will also act
+as a means of bringing into closer relationship their life outside of
+school with the work in school.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: TOY MAKING ON A PRODUCTIVE BASIS EMPLOYING FACTORY METHODS]
+
+
+
+
+PART I
+
+OPERATIONS IN TOY MAKING
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+PRODUCTIVE WORK
+
+
+#1. Suggested Plan for Shop Organization.#--While it is entirely
+satisfactory to have any of the toys mentioned in this book made as
+individual projects, they are here offered as suitable group projects or
+production projects. Production work may be defined as work done by a
+class to turn out a number of similar projects that have a marketable
+value, with the aid of jigs, fixtures, and other means of duplication,
+illustrating the industrial or practical application to the tasks in
+hand, Figs. 1, 2, and 3. This does not mean, however, that the school
+shops be transformed into a factory in the full sense of the word. It
+should differ from a factory in that the education of the student is the
+major part of the product, while in the factory production is the
+foremost aim.
+
+In doing work by the productive plan two important problems will present
+themselves at the outset; first, the time element; and second,
+industrial or practical application to the tasks in hand.
+
+A brief explanation of the plan of organization in one of the author's
+classes will attempt to show how nearly these problems can be solved.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1. Material for toys, prepared on a large scale]
+
+#2. Grouping of Students.#--Classes are divided into groups of between
+four and six boys, with a boy foreman appointed at the head of each
+group. The foreman is held responsible for the work turned out by his
+boys. He is to see that they understand just what is to be done and how
+it is to be done. All the group foremen are directly responsible to the
+general foreman who in turn is responsible to the instructor. The
+general foreman is to act as an inspector of finished work after it has
+received the group foreman's O.K. He is also held responsible for the
+condition of the shop during his class hour. This includes looking after
+all material, the manner in which stock is put away after class, and
+adherence to all shop rules that have been adopted to help in the
+efficiency of shop procedure.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 2. A large order of toys partly constructed]
+
+#3. The Time Clerk and Tool-Room Clerk.#--A "_Time Clerk_" is appointed
+to take charge of the time cards. He is also held responsible for all
+the clerical work that is to be done in the shop.
+
+A _Tool-Room Clerk_ is appointed to take charge of the shop tool room.
+He is to keep check of all tools given out and taken in. His spare time
+should be devoted to the care of tools.
+
+If possible, each boy in the class should be given an opportunity to act
+in each capacity that has been created, so that he may get the most
+varied experience in shop procedure. This will necessitate the changing
+of boys from one group to another; the changing of foremen, clerks,
+etc., at intervals which will of course be governed by the size of the
+class and the number of hours devoted to the work.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3. Milk wagons completed by the production method]
+
+#4. Recording Attendance.#--Boys, upon entering the shop, register their
+presence at the Time-Card Rack, Fig. 4. This is done by turning the time
+card shown in Fig. 5, so that the back side, which has the word present
+printed at top, is exposed. The time clerk then inspects the cards and
+notes those that have not been turned, and records the absences. He then
+fills in the date and passes the cards out to the boys in the shop.
+Toward the latter part of the period, a few minutes time is given the
+boys to fill in the necessary data on the time card.
+
+The time cards are then collected by the time clerk and put into a box
+where the time cards of all the classes are kept. In the meantime the
+time clerk puts back into the time rack the cards of the incoming class.
+This duty is performed by the time clerks of all the classes, thereby
+necessitating the use of only one time card rack.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4. The time-card rack.]
+
+#5. Time Cards.#--Referring to the time card mentioned in Fig. 5 it will
+be seen that the workman's shop number is filled in at the top. Then
+under the heading of "Woodworking Department" are two horizontal rows of
+items which need very little explanation. Following are three columns
+headed "Operation," "Assignment," and "Time." Below the word "Operation"
+are set down the various operations undertaken in the woodworking
+department, with several vacant spaces provided where other and special
+operations can be filled in. It will also be noticed that "Operations"
+are divided into two kinds, machine work and bench work. The
+instructor's glance at the time card will tell him at once what phase of
+the work the boy has been employed in and will help him in apportioning
+the work so that the boy is offered a varied experience.
+
+#6. Using Time Card.#--For shops that are not equipped with the kind of
+machines marked on the illustrated card, it would be well to omit the
+names of machines in the "operation" column. The instructor may then
+fill in the operation whatever it may be.
+
+Under the heading "Assignment" and against the operation which is to be
+undertaken by the student, the instructor writes in the name of the part
+to be made. This is the student's assignment and it should be read by
+him at the time he records his presence at the time-card rack upon
+entering the shop.
+
+In making assignments, the instructor may find it rather difficult to
+keep up with large classes of boys. This difficulty may be overcome by
+making an assignment to an entire group instead of to each boy. For
+example, in a class of twenty-five that would probably be divided into
+five groups, the instructor may make the assignment to the foreman of
+each group and each foreman in turn can inform the boys of his group as
+to the nature of the assignment. The boys can then enter the assignment
+on their time cards at the end of the period when the time spent on the
+job at hand is also recorded.
+
+The student's shop number, name, and grade should be filled in by the
+time clerk who can get out a number of cards for each student in advance
+and these are kept ready for use by the instructor. The instructor can
+then mark the project and the job number together with the student's
+assignment. At the same time he estimates the journeyman's time and rate
+and enters them in the space provided.
+
+The time card in Fig. 5, is 3-1/2 inches by 9 inches, made of three-ply
+bristol board. All worker's cards are printed on white colored bristol
+while those of the foremen are of blue colored bristol. This plan is for
+the instructor's convenience to be able to pick out the foremen's time
+cards at a glance.
+
+In the triple column under the heading "TIME" is provided room for the
+date and spaces in which the student can write the time in minutes spent
+on the various operations on that date. The triple columns on each side
+of the card allow of the cards being used for six days. If a job lasts
+longer than six days another card should be used marking them No. 1 and
+No. 2, respectively, in the space marked "Card No." Both cards should be
+fastened and kept together.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5. Time card]
+
+Effort should always be made to have all the assignments short (less
+than six days) so that the student's record may be computed at the end
+of each week by the time clerk.
+
+#7. Grading Students.#--The next four spaces contain in condensed form,
+the information itemized in other parts of the card. This, together with
+other information set down by the instructor, is the vital material
+sought for.
+
+The item A "Journeyman's Time" is very easily recorded by the
+instructor. It is arrived at in the same way as in making out the
+estimate for any piece of work and can be recorded almost at once. The
+main purpose here is to set for the student a standard of time on which
+to work.
+
+The item B is the rate in points per hour, based on the journeyman's
+time.
+
+The item C is the total of the student's time added together from the
+various spaces under "Time."
+
+Item D "Quality Decimal" is the quality of the student's job expressed
+in the form of a decimal, with 100% as the maximum. This mark should be
+filled in by the instructor when the student completes his job.
+
+The next item, the number of points the student earns is found by the
+formula Points = (AxB)D
+
+  Points earned per hour = ((AxB)D)/C
+
+For example, a student receives an assignment to cut to thickness,
+width, and length, sixty chair legs. The size of the legs he is to get
+from the job blueprint. He spends 60 minutes a day, for three days,
+making a total of 180 minutes or 3 hours. The time it would take a
+journeyman to do the same job is estimated at 2 hours. The rate
+adopted is at 80 points per hour; the journeyman therefore earns
+AxB = 2x80 = 160 Points. The quality of the student's job is graded by
+the instructor as 75%. The number of points the student earns is found
+by the formula Points = (AxB)D = (2x80).75 = 120 Points. To find the
+number of points the student earns per hour, divide 120 points by the
+number of hours it took the student to complete the job, which equals
+120/3 = 40, the number of points the student earns per hour. However,
+if the student would be graded 100%, he would earn the same number of
+points as the journeyman. But of course, he would have done it in three
+hours where the journeyman has earned the same number of points in two
+hours. It will readily be seen that this scheme offers the student an
+everlasting incentive to equal the journeyman's record.
+
+Having obtained the points on the time card or assignment card as it may
+be called, these are then transferred to a monthly accomplishment sheet
+as shown in Fig. 6, which is provided for all the students in all
+classes.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 6. Monthly accomplishment sheet]
+
+The total number of points for each boy, group, and class can then be
+easily obtained. These totals can be put up in poster form and hung on
+the shop's bulletin board, showing the standing of each boy, group, and
+class. It is surprising the amount of interest and competition that can
+be aroused; everyone working for the highest honors, unconsciously, with
+a competitive spirit that will bring out considerable thought and effort
+to the matter of handling material for maximum production.
+
+#8. Preliminary Discussion and Preparation for Shopwork.#--Of course, no
+time card or assignment-record scheme can hope entirely to eliminate the
+necessary preliminary discussions and preparation. The author has found
+it of material help to meet the foremen of all the classes at hours
+other than their regular class hour and discuss such topics as "Securing
+Cooperation," "Instructing Workers," "Maintaining Cleanliness and
+Order," "Records and Reports," "Inspecting Work," "Routing Material Thru
+Shop," "Care of Stock," etc.
+
+Details regarding construction and assembling should be worked out by
+the instructor beforehand, and also developed with the class as the work
+progresses. Care should be taken that plans are carefully made regarding
+the storage of stock and unfinished parts.
+
+The old saying, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," is an
+old one, but a good one.
+
+#9. Bazaars, Toy Sales, Etc.#--The plan of selling toys, that are made
+in the school shop, to the boys and girls of the school is a plausible
+one. It can very easily be accomplished in the form of bazaars,
+exhibitions, or school toy sales.
+
+The writer has had a number of samples of different toys made and put on
+exhibition, and orders taken, requiring a deposit on each order. These
+were then turned in to the shop department and the toys made on the
+productive plan.
+
+The boys in the shop would receive school checks, Fig. 7, for the total
+number of points that they earned for the semester. These checks could
+then be used by them towards the purchasing of any of the toys that were
+put on sale; a certain number of points required for the purchase of
+different toys.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7. Credit check, based on number of points carved]
+
+This plan was made possible by adding on to the number of orders
+received an additional number equal to the number of boys in the shop.
+For example, twenty-four orders for toy milk wagons were received by a
+class of twenty-four boys. Then instead of making twenty-four toy milk
+wagons we doubled the number and made forty-eight of them. The price
+that was figured on for the twenty-four orders would more than cover the
+cost of material for the other twenty-four articles that the boys would
+be able to buy with their earned checks.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+COLORING TOYS
+
+
+#10. Sanitation Emphasized.#--All application of color to toys should
+carry with it a realization that toys are meant primarily for children
+and that all paints should therefore be free from poisonous compounds.
+
+All paints used should be of good quality so that it will not come off
+easily to discolor the hands or tongues of children who cannot resist
+the temptation of sticking everything possible into their mouths.
+
+#11. Preparation of Surfaces.#--Wooden toys may be finished quite bright
+and in various colors.
+
+Before applying the color it is absolutely necessary that every part of
+the toy has been thoroly sanded. Where sanding is done by machine, care
+should be taken not to sand the wood too much. Many difficulties may
+arise from too much as well as from too little sanding. In hand sanding,
+the use of a block 2-1/2" x 3-1/2", to which is glued a piece of cork,
+is recommended.
+
+#12. Application of Water Colors.#--Toys may be colored by the use of
+different materials and by various methods. Kalsomine colors, opaque
+water colors, variously known as show card colors, liquid tempera, and
+letterine,--all come under the heading of water colors. All but the
+kalsomine may be obtained in small jars and ready for use. Kalsomine
+colors come in powder form in various colors and may easily be prepared
+by mixing with water and a little glue to bind the parts together. They
+are much cheaper than the ordinary forms of transparent and opaque water
+colors. They may be applied with the ordinary water color brushes.
+
+After a coat of water color has been applied to the toy, it may be
+necessary to remove the rough parts with very fine sand paper. Care
+should be taken not to "cut thru" when sanding.
+
+To preserve and protect the water color on the toy a coat of white
+shellac may be applied. If a more durable finish is desired a coat of
+good clear varnish over the shellac will serve the purpose.
+
+#13. Analine Water Stains.#--For general finishing of toys analine water
+stains will produce excellent results. They are known for their ability
+to penetrate the wood deeply and the ease with which any shade can be
+produced. Water stain raises the grain of the wood more than any other.
+This makes it necessary to sandpaper down the raised grain until smooth
+and then proceed with the shellacking and varnishing until the desired
+results are obtained.
+
+In preparing analine water stains, only analines that are soluble in
+water are used. Place an ounce of the analine to a quart of hot or
+boiling water, pouring the water over the dye-stuff and stirring
+meanwhile with a wooden paddle or stick. Soft water is the best. In
+about an hour the dye may be filtered thru a piece of fine woven cloth.
+As metal is apt to discolor the dye, it is better to use a glass
+container. If the prepared solution is too strong it may be diluted in
+more water. Use hot water for diluting the stain.
+
+The work with water stain must be done quickly in order to obtain a
+uniform coloring on the surface. Water stains are used a great deal
+where the dipping process is employed in the finishing of toys. A hot
+dipping stain is preferable to a cold dipping stain, first, because it
+penetrates more readily and second, because it dries quicker.
+
+#14. Formulas for Analine Water Stains.#--(Stock Solutions).
+
+_Red_: Rose benzol five parts, water ten parts.
+
+_Rose Red_: Dissolve 3 oz. Rose Bengal in 5 pints of water.
+
+_Blue_: (a) Dissolve 1 oz. of the best indigo carmine in 8 oz. of
+water. (b) Prussian blue dissolved in water.
+
+_Dark Blue_: Dissolve 3 oz. Bengal blue in 3-1/2 pints of boiling water,
+and stir and filter the fluid in ten minutes time.
+
+_Green_: Mix Prussian blue and raw sienna in such proportions as will
+give the desired color. Mix in water.
+
+_Brown_: Dissolve 3 oz. of Bismark brown in 1/2 gal. of water.
+
+_Yellow_: Auramine 4 parts, sulphate of soda 10 parts, mixed in water.
+
+_Black_: Nigrosine black, four ounces, dissolved in one gallon of
+boiling water.
+
+When wanted for use, these analines may be diluted with water. The rule
+is, an ounce of analine to the gallon of water to form a working stain.
+Or to a pint of the stock solution, as it is called, you may add three
+pints of water.
+
+#15. Oil Stains.#--It will be found that quicker work can be done with
+oil stain than with water colors. For that reason, oil stains are also
+used a great deal as a dipping stain. In preparing oil stains, the best
+mineral or earth pigments to dissolve with turpentine are Van Dyke
+brown, chrome green, burnt and raw sienna, and lamp black.
+
+#16. Shellacking.#--There are two kinds of shellac, orange and white.
+The white shellac is orange shellac that has been bleached. The purpose
+of shellac as commonly understood is to give a quick coat over the
+stain. The thin coat formed serves as a protector for the stain and also
+as an undercoater for the following coat of varnish. In this way at
+least one coat of varnish is eliminated and a great deal of time saved
+because the shellac dries within a few minutes. To thin shellac use
+denatured alcohol.
+
+On cheaper toys a coat of shellac only may be used as a covering for the
+color stain. If orange shellac is used it will be found that it effects
+the color of the stain used. White shellac also produces a slight change
+in color and for this reason many working with toys will use a good
+clear varnish instead.
+
+#17. Varnishing.#--Two or three coats of varnish will produce a very
+durable finish. The first coat of varnish ought not be quite as heavy as
+the succeeding coats. If the varnish is of extra heavy body it should be
+reduced slightly for the first coat. The best varnish reducer is thin
+varnish. To prepare this reducer, take one part varnish (the same
+varnish to be reduced), and two parts of turpentine. Shake these
+together well and let stand twenty-four hours before using. This will
+reduce the consistency of the varnish without tearing down the body as
+pure turpentine would. The first coat of varnish should be allowed to
+dry thoroly before the second coat is applied.
+
+Oil varnishes made from good hard gums, pure linseed oil, and
+turpentine, are the most valuable. In using turpentine to thin varnish
+care should be taken that adulterated turpentine is not used. To play
+the game safe it is advisable to use a little benzine, for it will not
+injure the varnish, but will evaporate entirely, and not flatten the
+varnish as turpentine does.
+
+#18. Points on Varnishing.#--(1) The less varnish is worked under the
+brush the better its luster. (2) Use clean brush and pot, and clean
+varnish. See that the surface is clean before beginning to varnish. (3)
+Allow a coat of varnish plenty of time for drying until it becomes hard.
+
+#19. Colored Varnish.#--Colored varnish is that in which a proportion of
+varnish is added to the pigment and thinned. The base is usually an
+earth color such as ochre, sienna, venitian red, Van Dyke brown, umber,
+lamp black, etc.
+
+With this the work can be done in one coat. This method of finishing is
+usually employed on the cheaper class of toys where it isn't advisable
+to apply an expensive finish.
+
+#20. Another Suggestion for Finishing.#--Tint a gallon of benzine or
+gasoline with chrome green, chrome yellow, and vermilion, ground in
+Japan until the desired shade is obtained. This formulae is especially
+good for dipping purposes.
+
+#21. Use of Paint.#--Although paint can be bought ready prepared and in
+any color, as has been stated, it is advisable to have the students mix
+their own colors and choose their own color scheme.
+
+#22. Ingredients of good Paint.#--The best paints are usually made by
+mixing together white lead, linseed oil, pigment of the desired color
+(colors ground in oil), and a drier.
+
+While white lead is sufficient as the pigment for white paint, a better
+result is obtained by mixing zinc oxide with the white lead. These two
+substances have the convenient property of balancing each other's
+disadvantages. For instance, zinc oxide has a tendency to crack and to
+peal, which is overcome by the tougher coating formed by the white lead.
+Again, when white lead is exposed to light and weathering, it becomes
+chalky, which fault is remedied by the property possessed by zinc oxide,
+of remaining hard.
+
+The linseed oil used is obtained from flaxseed by pressing the thoroly
+ground seed. About twenty-three gallons of oil can be obtained from one
+bushel of the seed. By boiling the oil with lead oxide or manganese
+oxide it can take more oxygen from the air, and thereby its drying
+powers are increased.
+
+Driers are substances that absorb oxygen from the air and give part of
+it to the oil. The raw linseed oil absorbs the oxygen from the air very
+slowly, but the addition of turpentine is a great aid in overcoming this
+defect.
+
+To insure the best results in painting, one must first consider the kind
+and condition of the surface to be painted, and to what use the toy will
+be put; then decide on the proper composition and consistency of the
+paint.
+
+#23. Application of Paint.#--In applying the paint to the toy the first
+coat should be thinned. This will act as a primer or undercoat for the
+succeeding coats of paint. Care should be taken that plenty of time is
+allowed between coats for the paint to dry thoroly. Three coats of paint
+will produce a good finish.
+
+#24. Preparation of surface.#--All woodwork must be sanded and thoroly
+dry before any paint is applied. Care should be taken to see that all
+knots and sappy streaks shall be covered with a coat of orange shellac.
+Then apply the first coat.
+
+After the priming coat of paint is thoroly dry, putty up all knot holes,
+dents, cracks, and other defects in the surface with a pure linseed oil
+putty composed of equal parts of white lead and whiting. When putty is
+dry, proceed with the other coats.
+
+#25. Tinting Materials.#--Formulas for making tints are to be followed
+only in a general way. Make some allowance for slight variations in the
+strength and tone of different makes of colors. Chromes and ochres vary
+noticeably. Weigh out your color and add it gradually, not all at once,
+noting the effect as you go. When you reach the desired shade, stop,
+regardless of what the formula calls for. Turpentine and dark driers
+will slightly alter shades. Make allowance for this.
+
+#26. Mixing Paints.#--Faulty mixing, even with the best of materials, is
+not likely to make durable paint. The important thing is to give the
+lead and oil a chance to incorporate themselves in that close union
+which they always make if allowed to do so. The following directions
+give best results. The order is important.
+
+(1) Break up the white lead with a paddle, using only enough oil to
+bring it to the consistency of colors in oil.
+
+(2) Add your colors for tinting. Coloring matter added after the paint
+has been thinned is likely to break up in lumps which leave streaks
+when brushed out.
+
+(3) Put in drier.
+
+(4) Add remainder of oil, stirring well.
+
+(5) Last of all, put in turpentine.
+
+Thinners help only the flow of the paint never the quality.
+
+To strain paint thru cheese cloth before using will be a safeguard
+against lumpy colors and streakiness. Paint also spreads further if
+strained.
+
+#27. Paint Formulas.#--As most toys are exposed to the weather a great
+deal, the following formulas are recommended. These take no account of
+tinting materials.
+
+(a) Priming Coat:
+
+  25 pounds pure white lead
+  1 gallon pure raw linseed oil
+  1/2 gallon pure turpentine
+  1/4 pint drier, free from rosin
+
+(b) Body Coat:
+
+  25 pounds pure white lead
+  3/8 gallon pure raw linseed oil
+  3/8 gallon pure turpentine
+  1/4 pint drier, free from rosin
+
+(c) Finishing Coat:
+
+  25 pounds pure white lead
+  1 gallon pure raw linseed oil
+  1/4 pint pure turpentine
+  1/4 pint drier.
+
+One must exercise his own discretion in using a larger or smaller
+quantity of oil according to whether the wood is oil absorbing, as white
+pine, poplar, and basswood, or less permeable, as yellow pine, cypress,
+spruce, and hemlock.
+
+#28. Formulas for Making Tinted Paint.#--Any color or tint may be
+obtained by varying the addition of tinting colors. These tinting colors
+are called "colors in oil." The colors should be added to the white lead
+before the paint is thinned.
+
+To twenty-five pounds of white lead ground in oil add colors in oil as
+follows:
+
+  Medium Blue Slate      3-1/2 oz. lamp black
+
+  Gray Blue              1/4 oz. lamp black
+                         1 oz. Prussian blue
+                         1/4 oz. medium chrome green
+
+  Dark Drab              5 lbs. French ochre
+                         1/2 lb. lamp black
+                         1/4 lb. Venitian red
+
+  Dark Slate             2 oz. lamp black
+                         3 oz. medium chrome yellow
+
+  Dark Lilac             1 oz. lamp black
+                         5 oz. Venitian red
+
+  Lilac                  1/2 oz. lamp black
+                         1-1/2 oz. Venitian red
+
+  Forest Green           1-1/2 oz. lamp black
+                         8 lbs. light green
+                         5 oz. medium chrome yellow
+
+  Buff                   1-1/2 lb. French ochre
+                         3/8 oz. Venitian Red
+
+  Cream                  5 oz. French ochre
+
+  Sea Green              3/8 oz. lamp black
+                         1/2 oz. medium chrome green
+                         1-1/4 oz. medium chrome yellow
+
+Where tinting colors are used in sufficiently large quantities to alter
+the consistency of the paint, add one-half as much linseed oil and
+turpentine, by weight, as you add tinting material.
+
+#29. Enameling.#--When using enamel as a finish for toys, care should be
+taken that the surface of the toy is in proper condition. To obtain good
+results proceed as follows: Give the wood a coat of shellac. Sand
+lightly and dust. The following coat should consist of part of white
+paint and one part of the enamel to be used. This coat should be
+slightly tinted with the finishing color, if the finishing coat is not
+white. Allow twenty-four hours for drying thoroly; then sand with
+No. OO sand paper. Next apply a coat of enamel of the color desired for
+the finished work. (Enamels may be tinted with colors ground in oil.)
+
+Should the enamel not work freely, add a spoonful of benzine to a gallon
+of enamel. Turpentine may also be used as a thinner for enamel.
+
+A better finish of enamel consists of two coats of paint before applying
+the enamel. This gives it a stronger body and of course makes it more
+durable.
+
+Because of its durability and for sanitary reasons enamel is the most
+desirable finish for toys. Its glossy finish is attractive and very
+appealing to children.
+
+#30. The Dipping Method.#--When a considerable quantity of toys is to be
+finished, the problem to be faced will be the cost of application of the
+paint rather than the cost of the paint itself. The dipping process,
+(immersing the material to be covered) is found to be the most
+successful, especially in toy making, where so many small parts are
+used.
+
+Many of the small pieces made can be subjected to the dipping process at
+quite a saving of time and labor, with probably better results than
+where the application of paint or stain is done with a brush.
+
+The success of the dipping process depends on the arrangement adopted
+for holding the toys while the actual dipping is done and while they are
+drying. Here the exercise of a little ingenuity on the part of the
+students and teacher, will overcome most difficulties.
+
+Supposing that a number of checkers, or handles, or small wheels are to
+be stained. A dipping frame as shown in Fig. 8 could very easily be
+prepared. You will notice the screen tray (which is removable), and the
+tin sheet which slopes towards the container. The small pieces to be
+stained can be handled in wire baskets with mesh just small enough so
+that the pieces will not fall thru.
+
+The wire basket is then immersed in the container and worked up and
+down, so that the liquid will penetrate and touch all pieces. It is then
+pulled up and swung over the screen tray, where the contents of the wire
+basket is dumped. Here, the superfluous paint will drip off on the tin
+sheet, which, because of its slope, will cause the superfluous paint to
+flow back in to the container. Fig. 9 shows the dipping frame in use.
+
+The screen tray can be removed and placed in a rack to allow for further
+drying. Several trays could then be made and a rack to hold them could
+very easily be constructed.
+
+The paint used for dipping purposes must so be prepared that too much
+does not run off or too much stay on, for this is surely one way to
+spoil the work. It should be thinned to the right consistency and care
+should be taken that the thinners used are of the best quality.
+
+Where larger pieces of work are to be dipped, wire attachments could be
+devised and each part hung separately over the dipping frame until ready
+to be placed in a rack. If the wire attachment forms a hook on one end,
+it will be possible to hang up the toy until drained and dried. In
+removing the toy from the paint it should be drawn out very slowly so
+that the surface of the paint may be left as smooth as possible.
+
+Where one desires line effects on toys, these may be lined in afterwards
+with a small size striping brush or sign painter's pencil.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8. Dipping frame]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9. Using the dipping frame]
+
+#31. Polishing by Tumbling.#---Excellent results in polishing large
+quantities of small pieces, may be obtained by tumbling. The material to
+be polished should be thoroly dry. The parts are then placed in a
+tumbler as shown in Fig. 10. Cut up paraffine wax into small pieces,
+using about one-fourth pound to each tumbler full of toys. Allow these
+to tumble several hours. This will distribute the wax evenly over the
+parts and produce a polished surface.
+
+The tumbler as shown in Fig. 10 is turned by hand, altho it could very
+easily be placed in a lathe, where one is available.
+
+#32. Care of Brushes.#--A suitable place should be provided for brushes
+that are not in use. A tin-lined keeper is recommended. Brushes should
+be suspended so that their bristles will not touch the bottom of the
+keeper, and have the liquid in which they are kept come well up over the
+bristles, so that none of the paint or varnish may dry in the butt of
+the brush.
+
+#33. Paint Application by Means of Compressed Air.#--In recent years,
+great advancement has been made in the application of paint by means of
+compressed air. The early use of pneumatic painting equipment was
+confined almost exclusively to the application of finishing materials
+such as japans, enamels, lacquers, varnishes, etc., on manufactured
+products. But in the past few years improvements have been made which
+eliminate all of the difficulties originally experienced and make
+possible the use of this method for interior and exterior painting, such
+as buildings, ships, etc.; and at present, a large portion of factory
+maintenance work is done in this manner. Excessive fumes have been
+eliminated and all materials can be applied without removing the
+volatile thinners, solvents, binders, etc., thru air reduction. This is
+brought about thru the use of low pressure and the perfection of
+ingenious patent nozzles and other improvements.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10. Tumbler for polishing small pieces]
+
+#34. Uses of Pneumatic Sprayers.#--Pneumatic paint sprayers, or air
+brushes, are extensively used in the manufacture of toys, furniture,
+automobile bodies, sewing machines, telephones, electrical equipment; in
+fact, very nearly all manufactured products, as well as on ships,
+structural steel and iron work, bridges and buildings.
+
+The speed of the air brush is very great compared with hand-brush work.
+Usually, an air-brush operator will accomplish as much in one hour as a
+hand or bristle-brush worker will in one day; and it is possible to
+obtain an even coating, free from sags, runs or brush-marks and better
+results are obtained than with the hand brush method. A film of paint
+can be applied in one operation equal to two hand-brush coats, as it is
+not necessary to reduce paints by thinning as much for air brush
+application, in a great many instances, as is the usual practice for
+hand-brushing. The air sprayer can also reach places inaccessible to the
+hand brush, and a perfect coat can be applied over rough, uneven
+surfaces, which could not be obtained by hand-brushing.
+
+In considering pneumatic painting equipment, the most important thing to
+be kept in mind is the proper application of materials. This can be
+successfully accomplished only thru the use of compressed air at low
+pressures. By this is meant using only sufficient main-line air to lay
+the paint, enamel, varnish or whatever finish may be used, on the
+object. Excessive pressure results in fumes, waste of material and air
+reduction taking place. By air reduction is meant the removal of the
+more volatile solvents, thinners, binders, etc., thru evaporation, and
+the material thus loses its adherent and coherent properties.
+
+Both types of air-brush equipment illustrated here require three cubic
+feet of air per minute to operate and the pressure necessary depends on
+the density, consistency or viscosity of the material used. For example,
+undercoaters, japans, etc.; require from twelve to fifteen pounds of
+pressure to apply perfectly; while enamels and varnishes take from
+eighteen to twenty-five pounds. Water stains require about five pounds
+of pressure.
+
+#35. Construction of Pneumatic Painting Outfit.#--A pneumatic painting
+outfit for finishing work consists essentially of an air brush, either
+of the attached-container type or the gun-type with separate paint
+tank, and a small compressor of sufficient capacity to operate the air
+brush, which can be belt-driven from shafting or direct connected. An
+exhaust hood with fan, for the removal of fumes, is advisable where the
+operation is reasonably continuous and especially where lacquers are
+used. The paint, ready for application, is poured into the tank; and the
+compressed air line leads to the tank with a branch line for air and
+paint from the tank to the nozzle of the gun type of machine; while only
+the air line is required with the attached-container type.
+
+The air hose used is 5/16" in diameter while the paint or fluid hose is
+the same size. The paint hose is made of a special compound to resist
+the action of the thinners, solvents, etc., used in the paint; and it is
+important to have this correct, so that the lining will not disintegrate
+and clog the air brush or gun.
+
+Fig. 11 shows a five-gallon container type. It will be noticed that the
+fluid connection is nearest the nozzle and that the air connection is at
+the bottom of the grip.
+
+#36. Special Attachments for Different Surfaces.#--A cone nozzle is
+furnished for painting irregular surfaces and a fan nozzle for wide,
+flat work. Adjusting and locking the nozzle regulates the degree of
+atomization. The jets of the fan nozzle are depressed to prevent being
+knocked out of alignment. Final regulation of the flow of material is
+made on the back of the gun, independent of the pressure on the material
+container. A wide variety of adjustment is possible with this positive
+regulation.
+
+The first pull on the trigger gives air only, which can be used for
+dusting ahead of the work; and as the trigger is released, the air valve
+closes last, which prevents clogging and dripping. When adjustments have
+been made the trigger action is the only moving part of the machine.
+Figs. 12 and 13 show the five-gallon container type in actual use.
+
+#37. Cleaning Pneumatic Machines.#--It is not necessary to take the gun
+apart nor disconnect the hose to clean the machine. Thinner can be run
+thru the device without loss by placing a small can of reducer of the
+last material used in the machine, and forcing it thru in the usual
+manner.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 11. A five-gallon air brush outfit]
+
+#38. Directions for Cleaning Machine.#--Close right-hand Air Valve and
+open release valve. Unscrew air nozzle a few turns. Obstruct outlet with
+thumb and pull trigger. Spraying pressure is thus forced thru gun and
+fluid hose and the material backed into the container. It is advisable
+frequently to run thinner thru the machine as follows: (1) Place small
+can of thinner in center of container directly beneath fluid tube. (2)
+Replace cover and tighten wing-nuts. (3) Close left-hand air valve and
+open right-hand air valve. Pressure on container will force thinner thru
+the machine and clean perfectly without loss. Do not use spraying
+pressure in cleaning. The thinner can be used again for either cleaning
+or thinning purposes.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12. Using pneumatic paint sprayers]
+
+#39. Directions for Operating Pneumatic Equipment.#--
+
+1. Attach main-line air hose to air filter.
+
+2. Attach fluid hose to connection marked "Fluid" on tank and to the
+front connection near air nozzle on hand-piece.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13. A five-gallon outfit in actual use]
+
+3. Attach air hose to connection marked "Air" on cover and to the handle
+connection on hand-piece.
+
+4. Thoroly mix and strain material so that it is entirely free from
+skins, lumps, and foreign materials.
+
+5. Tighten wing-nuts until paint container is air-tight.
+
+6. See that release valve is closed. Then open right-hand air valve,
+turn fluid-pressure regulator until gage shows 5 lbs. pressure in
+container. Pull trigger and use fluid regulator on gun to control the
+flow. If material is heavy, increase pressure in container.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14. Attached container type of sprayer]
+
+7. Open left-hand air valve and turn spraying pressure regulator until
+sufficient pressure (5 lbs. to 25 lbs.), is obtained to lay the material
+on.
+
+8. Make final adjustment of the flow of material with fluid regulator on
+back of hand-piece and get proper spray by adjusting the air nozzle.
+
+9. Spraying pressure and pressure in the container depends upon the
+density of the material used and the size of the surface to be coated. A
+little experimenting on the part of the operator will determine the best
+pressure to use. When the fan nozzle is used, 3 to 5 lbs. more pressure
+should be applied to the material container and from 5 to 8 lbs. more
+atomizing or spraying pressure used.
+
+Fig. 14 shows a complete attached container which operates on
+identically the same principles as the type shown in Fig. 11. It
+consists of a 1-1/2 pint container, reducing outfit, compressor, and air
+tank. The 1-1/2 pint container as shown in Fig. 15 is supplied complete
+with two fluid tips, gasket, agitator tube, cup-holder, hose union, and
+six feet of air hose.
+
+The reducing outfit in Fig. 16 consists of a regulative valve, an air
+gage, and an air filter, complete with connections and fittings. This
+outfit is for the purpose of maintaining an even low spraying pressure.
+
+Regulated pressure is applied to the air-tight material container,
+raising the coating material to the nozzle where only sufficient
+main-line pressure is used to lay the coating on. The spraying pressure
+necessarily depends on the density, consistency and viscosity of the
+material used.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 15. A one and one-half pint container and parts]
+
+For fine finishing work, where the quantity of materials used each day
+is not great, or where the colors are changed frequently, the attached
+container type is recommended.
+
+#40. Preparing Colors.#--The three primary colors are red, blue and
+yellow. With the three primary colors at hand, almost every variety of
+color desirable for ordinary use can be easily prepared. Fig. 17 shows a
+color chart.
+
+  Red mixed with yellow will result in orange.
+  Red mixed with blue will result in purple.
+  Yellow mixed with blue will result in green.
+
+The colors obtained by mixing any two primaries are called secondary
+colors. Therefor the secondary colors are orange, purple and green.
+
+Orange mixed with purple will result in brown.
+
+Orange mixed with green will result in olive.
+
+Purple mixed with green will result in slate.
+
+The colors obtained by mixing any two secondaries are called tertiary
+colors.
+
+The tertiary colors are brown, olive and slate.
+
+Of course different tones of each color can be made up by mixing unequal
+proportions.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16. Reducing outfit]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17. Chart showing proportions required for standard
+colors]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+COMMON WOODS USED IN TOY MAKING
+
+
+#41. Economy in Selecting Material.#--Economic use of materials should
+be encouraged at all times. Toy making offers an excellent opportunity
+where economy may be taught in the most practical way.
+
+Where toys are to be painted, more than one kind of wood may be used in
+the same toy and thereby using up small pieces of wood that would
+otherwise be called scrap. Yet, it is not advisable to sacrifice the
+strength and durability of the whole toy for the sake of using up a
+piece of scrap wood which weakens the particular part of the toy where
+it is used. For that, in the long run, is not economy.
+
+#42. Qualities of Different Woods Used.#--The following are some of the
+common woods used in toy making.
+
+Maple: hard, fine grained, compact, tough, used for wheels, axles,
+handles, dowel rods, etc.
+
+Ash: white, strong, open grained, easily worked; used for bodies of
+coasters, wheels, axles, oars, etc.
+
+Oak: hard, firm and compact, strong and durable, hard to work.
+
+Birch: moderately hard and heavy, even grained; difficult to split, but
+easily worked.
+
+Chestnut: resembles oak in appearance, is much softer, moderately hard,
+course grained, not strong, but durable.
+
+Cypress: moderately hard, very fine and close grained, virtually
+indestructable; known as "the wood eternal".
+
+Basswood: white, light, soft, tough, closed grained, easily worked, not
+strong, but durable; used for almost any part of a toy where much
+strength is not required.
+
+White Pine: very light, soft, close and straight grained, inferior; easy
+to work.
+
+Yellow Pine, yellowish, grain noticeable, harder than white pine,
+stronger.
+
+Tulip (yellow poplar): light, soft, close and straight grained; tougher
+than many woods equally soft, compact, not very strong or durable,
+easily worked.
+
+Spruce: straight growing, light, straight and even in grain, tough,
+elastic, easy to work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+USE OF JIGS AND FIXTURES
+
+
+#43. Value of Jigs and Fixtures.#--The use of jigs, fixtures, and other
+labor-saving devices is an important factor in illustrating industrial
+and practical applications in the school shop. It is advisable to let
+each group of boys work out its own jig or fixture for the particular
+job they have on hand.
+
+The three most common forms of jigs are cutting jigs, boring jigs, and
+assembling jigs. The important reasons for the use of such devices are:
+(1) They illustrate the speed of output in shop work. (2) They give the
+student a good idea of machine operation. (3) They help in making the
+parts interchangeable. (4) They offer an opportunity for getting first
+hand information on cutting edge tools and their proper uses. (5) They
+show the boy the value of the use of jigs in factory work.
+
+The toys illustrated in this book have many simple operations, such as
+cutting stock to length, drilling holes, surfacing, etc., that can be
+easily done by the use of the proper fixtures.
+
+For that reason toys are desirable projects to be made by the productive
+plan. Fig. 18 shows the use of a jig and the miter box.
+
+#44. Cutting Small Wheels.#--A circle of the desired size wheel may be
+laid out on the wood with the aid of a compass, and cut in the outline
+with a coping saw or band saw. Of course, it would take quite a long
+time by this method to make the small wheels in large quantities and
+besides the result would not be as good as when the wheels are made by
+machine.
+
+#45. Turning Wheels.#--Another way to produce wheels is to turn a
+cylinder to the required diameter, on the turning lathe. Then cut the
+cylinder on the circular saw into required thicknesses of wheels
+desired. This method is recommended for quick work.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18. Production of toys by use of jigs]
+
+If it is desired to round the end of wheels the operation can be done by
+leaving the cylinder in the lathe and applying the broad side of the
+skew chisel as shown in Fig. 33. The wheels may then be polished with a
+cloth after they have been sanded and while rotating in the lathe as
+shown in Fig. 34. In sanding, use first a fairly course grade of
+sandpaper, No. 1 or 1-1/2 and afterwards a fine grade, No. O or OO.
+Before applying the cloth the wood may be varnished lightly while the
+lathe is not running, taking care to wipe off all the surplus varnish.
+The varnish will assist in giving the surface a fine polish when the
+cloth is applied. For further explanations of the use of the turning
+lathe, see Sec. 55.
+
+#46. Use of Wheel Cutter.#--Still another method of making small wheels
+is by use of the wheel cutter as shown in Fig. 19. This wheel cutter may
+be used in the ordinary bit brace. Good results may be obtained where
+the wheels are made out of thin, soft wood.
+
+This wheel cutter is known on the market as a leather washer cutter. If
+one cannot be obtained it can easily be made in the school machine shop
+at a small cost. Fig. 20 shows a drawing of a wheel cutter.
+
+You will notice that the blade can be adjusted to cut any diameter
+desired.
+
+#47. Use of Coping Saw.#--Where a band saw is not included in the shop
+equipment, many articles such as animal forms and small wheels could
+very easily be cut out with a coping saw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19. Wheel cutter in use]
+
+A saw board, as shown in Fig. 21 should be fastened to a table top with
+an iron clamp; or, a saw board made to fasten in a vise may also be
+used.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20. Details of a wheel cutter which may be made in
+school]
+
+When cutting out the toy part, the coping saw should be held in a
+vertical position as shown in Fig. 22, and in an up-and-down motion,
+with short fast strokes, following the outline carefully. Cut on the
+line. Do not press hard on the saw for the blade is very thin and can
+very easily be broken, but it should last a long time if used correctly.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21. Clamping the saw board to the bench]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22. Correct method of holding coping saw]
+
+#48. Cutting Sharp Corners.#--When cutting a sharp turn in the wood with
+the coping saw, care should be taken not to twist the saw blade out of
+shape. Upon reaching the sharp turn, continue the up-and-down motion,
+but without doing any cutting; turn the wood very slowly until you have
+made the complete turn, then continue with the sawing and follow the
+rest of the outline carefully.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23. Removing the saw-blade]
+
+#49. Removing the Saw-Blade from Frame.#--To remove the saw-blade from
+the frame, place the head of the frame against the table top as shown in
+Fig. 23. Pressing down on the handle will release the saw-blade. When
+inserting the blade into the frame the same method may be followed,
+being careful that the teeth of the saw-blade point toward the handle of
+the frame. The blade may be put in the end or the side slots of the
+frame, using the side slots only when the end slots will not serve the
+purpose.
+
+#50. Making Heavy Wheels.#--In turning heavier wheels that are to be
+used for coasters, kiddie cars, etc., the work is done with the head
+stock only, the wood being supported by the screw-center chuck or face
+plate.
+
+In turning the wheel the first step is the scraping cut as shown in Fig.
+24. This cut is properly made with the concave chisel held in such a
+position as to give a light scraping cut. Care should be exercised not
+to allow the chisel to extend too deeply, otherwise the material will
+chip with the grain.
+
+After the desired circumference has been obtained the surface should be
+worked to the desired form as shown in Fig. 25. This is accomplished by
+using the lathe rest, set at right angles with the bed or parallel with
+the face plate. The illustration in Fig. 26 shows the use of the
+dividers in marking off the position of the various corrugations in the
+wheel that is being turned. The sanding should be done while the wheel
+is in the lathe. Use first a fairly course grade of sand paper and
+afterwards a fine grade, No. O or OO.
+
+#51. Designs for Wheels.#--Suggestions for wooden toy wheels are shown
+in Fig. 27. Those numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 are plain wooden
+wheels varying in design only. No. 8 and 9 are re-enforced with zinc and
+large iron washers. No. 10 shows a segment of an iron pipe fitted in the
+center of the wheel to prevent wearing away of material. No. 11 shows a
+spoke wheel. The spokes are made of dowel rods; these fitting into a hub
+that can easily be turned out on the lathe. No. 13 shows a wheel built
+in segments which is then cut out on the band saw to resemble a standard
+spoke wheel. The rim is 1/8" steel, fastened to spokes with very small
+rivets.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24. Making heavy wheels. The scraping cut]
+
+#52. Cutting Wheels on Band-Saw.#--A circle of the required size wheel
+may be marked off on the wood with a compass, then cut in the outline on
+the band-saw. This method will leave square corners and will be more or
+less out of truth with the center of the wheel. To true up and smooth
+the outside of the wheel the lathe attachment as shown in Fig. 28 can be
+easily prepared. This attachment consists of a block _A_ fastened to the
+lathe bed with a single bolt, and a stop _B_ fastened to the upper face
+of the block _A_. The carriage _C_ is a loose piece the same thickness
+as the stop _B_ and is provided with a dowel rod to fit the central hole
+in the wheel. This dowel rod is so located that when the edge of the
+carriage _C_ is tight against the edge of the stop _D_, the distance
+from the center of the dowel rod to the face of the abrasive material
+on the disk, will be equal to the radius of the finished wheel.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25. Smoothing the side of wheels]
+
+The wood is cut out on the band saw a scant 1/16" over-size in diameter,
+and is then placed on the dowel rod in the carriage _C_ which is held
+flat on block _A_ while the edge of the blank is brought in contact with
+the grinding disc face by pushing the carriage forward with the left
+hand while the blank is slowly revolved with the right. This grinding is
+continued until the edges of stop _B_ and carriage _C_ will remain in
+contact during a complete revolution of the wheel blank. During this
+grinding process, the carriage should be moved back and forth from the
+edge to the center of the grinding disc so that the wear on the abrasive
+material may be equalized.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26. Using dividers to mark for cuts]
+
+A similar device used for chamfering the edges of the blanks is also
+shown in Fig. 28, as it looks when viewed from the front of the lathe.
+The preceding description will suffice for this as the same system of
+lettering has been used. It differs only in that block _A_ is made to
+set at an angle of 45 degrees instead of being level.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27. Many ways of making wheels for toys]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28. Simple attachments which may be made for lathe]
+
+Grinding discs may be made either of metal or wood. Metal is preferable
+but a hardwood disc fastened to a metal face plate will answer very
+well. There are many methods of fastening the abrasing material to the
+disc but the most convenient way is by the use of stick belt dressing.
+The disc is coated with dressing by holding the stick against it as it
+revolves and the abrasive is applied before the dressing has set. A pair
+of dividers or trammels is used to cut the abrasive material to the same
+diameter as the disc and it should be warmed on the uncoated side before
+it is applied. It sticks tightly to the disc but is easily removed and
+replaced with fresh material in a few minutes.
+
+#53. Boring Holes in Wheels.#--The center holes in wheels may be bored
+with bit and brace, but better results are obtained if the holes are
+bored in the lathe. A drill chuck fitted to the live spindle and a
+drilling pad for the tail stock spindle will be required to do this job
+efficiently. The tail stock is locked fast and the wheel to be drilled
+is placed against the drilling pad and fed up to the revolving bit by
+turning the tail spindle feed wheel. This method will produce a cleaner
+hole and one that is square with the wheel face.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+OPERATION OF WOODWORKING MACHINES
+
+
+#54. Importance of Machine Operations.#--A fair understanding of what is
+the correct position to take at some of the principal machines such as
+the lathe, universal saw, jointer, and sander, is very important to the
+student in the wood-working department. Such knowledge is of special
+importance to the one engaged in toy making, where every knowledge of
+use of machines, is put to the test.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29. The roughing cut]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30. The sizing cut]
+
+Sufficient examples are given to enable the student to arrive at a fair
+understanding of the correct postures.
+
+#55. Operating the Lathe.#--The lathe is perhaps one of the most
+important machines used in toy making. It lends itself to unlimited
+varieties of work and for that reason is really indispensible in the
+shop.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31. The paring cut]
+
+In Fig. 29 the student is preparing to take the _roughing cut_ in
+turning a cylinder. This operation consists of removing the corners of
+the square piece and is done with the tool known as the _gouge_.
+
+After the roughing cut has been taken, calipers set to the diameter
+desired will determine the depth of the next cut, _sizing cut_. The
+illustration in Fig. 30 shows the student performing this operation with
+the _cut-off tool_.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32. Using the cut-off tool]
+
+When the correct dimension has been found, the next step in the process
+of turning a cylinder is the _paring cut_ or finishing cut, Fig. 31.
+This is done with the _skew_ or _bevel chisel_. A very thin shaving is
+removed by this operation.
+
+The ends are then cut by using the cut-off tool as shown in Fig. 32. It
+is merely taking a slice off the end. If a very thin slice is to be
+removed, it is usually made by the long point of the skew chisel. If it
+is more than a quarter of an inch it should be _sized_ and then removed
+by the skew.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33. Making convex surfaces]
+
+If it is desired to round the end of a piece or to produce a convex
+surface the operation can be done by applying the broad side of the skew
+chisel, as in Fig. 33.
+
+#56. Face Plate Turning.#--The preceding paragraphs describe the process
+of turning when the piece is supported between the live and the dead
+centers. The processes shown in Figs. 24, 25 and 26, illustrate the
+character of the work done with the head stock only when the piece is
+supported by the screw-center chuck or face plate.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34. Polishing wood in lathe]
+
+The first step in face plate turning is the scraping cut, Fig. 24. This
+cut is properly made with the concave chisel held in such a position as
+to give a light scraping cut. Care should be exercised not to allow the
+chisel to extend too deeply, otherwise the material will chip with the
+grain. After the desired circumference has been obtained the surface
+should be smoothed with the skew chisel.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35. Cutting off stock]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 36. Fluting on circular saw]
+
+Fig. 25 shows the student modeling a rosette, using the rest, set at
+right angles with the bed or parallel with the face plate. Prior to the
+modeling a shearing cut should be taken with the skew chisel to face
+off the material to an even surface.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37. Cutting with special fence]
+
+The illustration in Fig. 26 shows the use of the dividers. The student
+is marking off to a uniform scale the position of the various
+corrugations in the rosette he is turning.
+
+#57. The Universal Saw.#--The operations that can be performed on the
+universal saw are so many that no attempt will be made to illustrate
+them all here. But enough are given to show the characteristic
+operations involved in cross-cutting, ripping, and dadoing,--the three
+basic uses of a circular saw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 38. Grooving, or ripping special work]
+
+It is a more dangerous tool than the lathe and the guard should be kept
+over the saw at all times, except of course, in dadoing when it can not
+be used.
+
+Figs. 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, illustrate the basic uses of a circular saw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 39. Cutting segments]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 40. Surfacing board on jointer]
+
+#58. The Hand Jointer.#--The great variety of work that can be done on a
+hand jointer depends very largely upon the knowledge and skill of the
+operator. It lends itself to so many operations, that the student gains
+much in knowledge and efficiency.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 41. Cutting bevels on jointer]
+
+The five operations shown in Figs. 40, 41, 42, 43 and 44, give a fair
+idea of the scope of work that is usually accomplished on a hand jointer
+and show something of the method by which the work should be done.
+
+The jointer is another tool where the use of the guard should never be
+omitted.
+
+#59. The Sander.#--The sander is an interesting machine in the school
+shop for on it considerable "forming" can be done as with the lathe,
+altho its prime use is to make smooth or polish.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 42. Jointing the edge]
+
+In Fig. 45 the boy at the left is forming a mitre while the one on the
+right is smoothing surface.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 43. Rabetting on the jointer]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 44. Cutting miter joints]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 45. The machine sander in operation]
+
+
+
+
+PART II.
+
+DRAWINGS FOR TOYS
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 1
+  _FOX and GEESE GAME_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 2
+  _RING TOSS_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 3
+  _BABY'S CART_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 4
+  _HAY CART_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 5
+  _Horse Head_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 6
+  _HORSE ON WHEELS
+  For Milk Wagon_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 7
+  _KIDO KAR TRAILER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 8
+  _AUTO ROADSTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 9
+  _AUTO RACER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 10
+  _PASSENGER CAR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 11
+  _MILK WAGON_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 12
+  _TABLE_
+  _Toy Furniture For Doll House_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 13
+  _CHAIR and ROCKER_
+  _Toy Furniture For Doll House_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 14
+  _BUFFET_
+  _Toy Furniture For Doll House_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 15
+  _TOY WHEEL-BARROW_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 16
+  _HORSE BARROW_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 17
+  _DOLL'S CARRIAGE_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 18
+  _NOAH'S ARK_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 19
+  _"BEAN BAG" GAME BOARD_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 20
+  _CHILD'S SWING_ #1]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 21
+  _CHILD'S SWING_ #2]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 22
+  _DOLL'S BED_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 23
+  _DOLL'S BED_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 24
+  _ADJUSTABLE STILTS_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 25
+  _SCOOTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 26
+  _STEERING COASTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 27
+  _KIDO KAR & DETAILS_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 28
+  _KID KAR JUNIOR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 29
+  _PONY KAR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 30
+  _DUPLEX SPEEDSTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 31
+  _ROCK-A-DOODLE_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 32
+  _SLED_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 33
+  _"Sturdy Flyer" Sled_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 34
+  _DUCKY LOO_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 35
+  _DUCK ROCKER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 36
+  _JITNEY_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 37
+  _JUNIOR ROADSTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 38
+  _Details of JUNIOR ROADSTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 39
+  _SENIOR COASTER & DETAILS_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 40
+  _DETAILS OF SENIOR COASTER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 41
+  _AUTO-KAR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 42
+  _MOTO-KAR_
+  _CHOO-CHOO-KAR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 43
+  _Teetter-Totter_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 44
+  _TEETER ROCKER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 45
+  _CHECKER BOARD_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 46
+  _CHILD'S COSTUMER_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 47
+  _BABY'S CHAIR_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 48
+  _CHILDREN'S SAND BOX_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 49
+  _SAND BOX #2_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 50
+  _DOLL'S HOUSE-#1_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 51
+  _DOLL'S HOUSE-#2_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 52
+  _DOLL'S HOUSE-#2_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 53
+  _DUMB BELL_
+  _INDIAN CLUB_]
+
+
+  [Illustration: PLATE 54
+  _BATS_]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+A
+
+  Auto kar, Plate 41, 104
+
+  Auto racer, Plate 9, 72
+
+  Auto Roadster, Plate 8, 71
+
+
+B
+
+  Bats, base ball, Plate 54, 117
+
+  Bazaars, toy sales, etc., 19
+
+  Bed, doll's, Plates 22, 23, 85, 86
+
+  Boring holes in wheels, 53
+
+  Brushes, care of, 31
+
+  Buffet, Plate 14, 77
+
+
+C
+
+  Car, baby's, Plate 36, 99
+
+  Car, passenger, Plate 10, 73
+
+  Cars, auto, motor, choo-choo, Plates 41, 42, 104, 105
+
+  Cart, baby's, Plate 3, 66
+
+  Cart, hay, Plate 4, 67
+
+  Carriage, dolls, Plate 17, 80
+
+  Chair & rocker, Plate 13, 76
+
+  Chair, baby's, Plate 47, 110
+
+  Checker board, Plate 45, 108
+
+  Check, credit, Fig. 7, 20
+
+  Coasters, Plates 26, 37, 39, 89, 101, 103
+
+  Coloring toys, 21
+    Sanitation emphasized, 21
+    Preparation of surfaces, 21
+    Application of water colors, 21
+    Analine water stains, 22
+    Formulas for analine water stains, 22
+    Oil stains, 23
+    Shellacking, 23
+    Varnishing, 23
+    Points on varnishing, 24
+    Color varnish, 24
+    Use of paint, 24
+    Dipping method, 28, 30
+    Polishing by tumbling, 31
+    Paint application by compressed air, 31
+
+  Colors, preparing, 39
+
+  Color chart, Fig. 17, 41
+
+  Contents, Table of, 5
+
+  Coping saw, use of, 45
+
+  Correlation, 7
+
+  Costumer, child's, Plate 46, 109
+
+
+D
+
+  Doll's house, Plates 50, 51, 52, 113, 114, 115
+
+  Dipping frame, 29
+
+  Drawings for toys, 63
+
+  Dumb bell, Plate 53, 116
+
+
+E
+
+  Enameling, 27
+
+
+F
+
+  Foremen, shop, 11
+
+  Fox & geese game, Plate 1, 64
+
+  Furniture, doll, 75, 76, 77
+
+
+G
+
+  Game board, "Bean Bag," Plate 19, 82
+
+  Game board, "Fox & Geese," Plate 1, 64
+
+  Grading students, 17
+
+
+H
+
+  Horse head, Plate 5, 68
+
+  Horse on wheels, Plate 6, 69
+
+  House, doll's, Plates 50, 51, 52, 113, 114, 115
+
+
+I
+
+  Indian club, Plate 53, 116
+
+
+J
+
+  Jigs & fixtures, 43
+
+  Jointer, hand, 59
+
+
+K
+
+  Kiddie kars, Plates 27, 28, 29, 90, 91, 92
+
+
+L
+
+  Lathe, operating the, 54, 55, 56, 57
+
+
+M
+
+  Machines, operating of woodworking, 54
+
+
+N
+
+  Noah's ark, Plate 18, 81
+
+
+O
+
+  Organization, plan for shop, 11
+
+
+P
+
+  Paint, use of, 24
+    Ingredients of, 24
+    Application, 25
+    Preparation of surface, 25
+    Tinting materials, 25
+    Mixing, 25
+    Formulas, 26
+    Formulas for tinted paint, 26
+    Enameling, 27
+
+  Plan for shop organization, 11
+    Grouping students, 11
+    Time clerk, 13
+    Tool-room clerk, 13
+    Recording attendance, 14
+    Time-card rack, 14
+    Time cards, 15
+    Grading students, 17
+    Accomplishment sheet, 18
+    Preparation for shop work, 19
+
+  Pneumatic equipment, 36
+
+  Preface, 3
+
+  Productive work, 11
+
+
+R
+
+  Ring toss, Plate 2, 65
+
+  Rocking chair, Plate 13, 76
+
+  Rocker, duck, Plate 35, 98
+
+  Rocker, ducky loo, Plate 34, 97
+
+  Rock-a-doodle, Plate 31, 94
+
+
+S
+
+  Sand box, Plates 48, 49, 111, 112
+
+  Sander, 60, 62
+
+  Saw, universal, 58
+
+  Scooter, Plate 25, 88
+
+  Sleds, Plates 32, 33, 95, 96
+
+  Sprayer, pneumatic air, 31, 33, 34
+
+  Sprayer, directions for operating, 36
+
+  Speedster, duplex, Plate 30, 93
+
+  Stain, oil, 23
+
+  Stain, analine water, 22
+
+  Stilts, adjustable, Plate 24, 87
+
+  Suggestions to teachers, 7
+
+  Swing, child's, Plates 20, 21, 83, 84
+
+
+T
+
+  Table for doll house, Plate 12, 75
+
+  Teeter-totter, Plate 43, 106
+
+  Teeter-rocker, Plate 44, 107
+
+  Time clerk, 13
+
+  Time cards, 15
+
+  Tool-room clerk, 13
+
+  Toy sales, 19
+
+  Trailer, kido-kar, Plate 7, 70
+
+  Tumbler, drawing of, 32
+
+  Tumbling, polishing by, 31, 32
+
+
+V
+
+  Varnishing, 23
+
+  Varnish, colored, 24
+
+  Varnishing, points on, 24
+
+
+W
+
+  Wagon, milk, Plate 11, 74
+
+  Water colors, 21
+
+  Wax polishing, 31
+
+  Wheel-barrow, toy, Plate 15, 78
+
+  Wheel-barrow, horse design, Plate 16, 79
+
+  Wheel cutter, 45, 46
+
+  Wheels, cutting small, 43
+
+  Wheels, designs, Fig. 27, 49, 51
+
+  Wheels, turning, 43
+
+  Woods used in toy making, 42
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVANCED TOY MAKING FOR SCHOOLS***
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