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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Advanced Toy Making for Schools, by David M.
+Mitchell
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Advanced Toy Making for Schools
+
+
+Author: David M. Mitchell
+
+
+
+Release Date: July 22, 2011 [eBook #36815]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVANCED TOY MAKING FOR SCHOOLS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Chris Curnow and the Online Distributed Proofreading
+Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by
+Internet Archive (http://www.archive.org)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations.
+ See 36815-h.htm or 36815-h.zip:
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/36815/36815-h/36815-h.htm)
+ or
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/36815/36815-h.zip)
+
+
+ Images of the original pages are available through
+ Internet Archive. See
+ http://www.archive.org/details/advancedtoymakin00mitc
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+ Text enclosed by "pound" or "number" signs is in bold
+ face (#bold#).
+
+
+
+
+
+ADVANCED TOY MAKING FOR SCHOOLS
+
+by
+
+DAVID M. MITCHELL
+
+Instructor Manual Arts
+Willson Junior High School, Cleveland, Ohio
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Manual Arts Press
+Peoria, Illinois
+
+Copyright 1922
+David M. Mitchell
+12 B 22
+
+Printed in United States of America
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+Toys are today regarded as educational factors in the life of boys and
+girls. New toys come into demand at frequent intervals in the growth and
+mental development of the child. On account of the unfailing interest on
+the part of the pupils in toys and because of the unlimited educational
+possibilities contained in toy making, this work is rightfully taking an
+increasingly important place in the manual arts program in the schools.
+
+This book is the outgrowth of toy-making problems given to junior-high
+and high-school pupils. The author claims no originality for some of the
+toys. However, most of them have been originated or improved upon in the
+author's classes.
+
+While it is entirely satisfactory to have any of the toys mentioned in
+this book made as individual projects, they are here offered as suitable
+group projects or production projects, and it is hoped that the
+suggested form of shop organization for production work as treated in
+Part I is flexible enough so that the plan can be applied to most any
+shop conditions.
+
+The drawings of toys in Part II will suggest a variety of articles which
+may be used in carrying out the production work.
+
+Of course, the success of organizing and conducting classes for this
+kind of work depends largely upon the instructor. He must know
+definitely what he is trying to get done. He must adopt and pursue such
+methods of dealing with both the members of the class and the material
+as will contribute directly towards the desired end.
+
+Toy making carried on by the so-called productive plan, if handled
+properly, will bring out many of the essentials of an organization
+typical of the commercial industries. Together with its educational
+possibilities and its power to attract the attention of those engaged in
+this activity, toy making will rightfully take its place alongside other
+important subjects offered in a complete industrial arts course.
+
+The author wishes to acknowledge his indebtedness to William E.
+Roberts, supervisor of manual training, Cleveland Public Schools, for
+valuable suggestions and inspiration; to Joseph A. Shelley, Jersey City,
+N. J., for suggestions on finishing kiddie car wheels; to the Eclipse
+Air Brush Company, Newark, N. J., for valuable information and
+photographs of air brush equipment; and to the American Wood Working
+Machinery Co., for the use of the illustrations showing the operation of
+the turning lathe, universal saw, and other woodworking machines.
+
+ D. M. MITCHELL
+
+Cleveland, Ohio, 1921.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+PART I
+
+OPERATIONS IN TOY MAKING
+
+ CHAPTER I. PRODUCTIVE WORK 11
+
+ 1. Suggested plan for shop organization. 2. Grouping
+ of students. 3. The time clerk and tool-room clerk.
+ 4. Recording attendance. 5. Time cards. 6. Using time
+ card. 7. Grading students. 8. Preliminary discussion and
+ preparation for shopwork. 9. Bazaars, toy sales, etc.
+
+ CHAPTER II. COLORING TOYS 21
+
+ 10. Sanitation emphasized. 11. Preparation of surfaces.
+ 12. Application of water colors. 13. Analine water stains.
+ 14. Formulas for analine water stains. 15. Oil stains.
+ 16. Shellacking. 17. Varnishing. 18. Points on Varnishing.
+ 19. Colored varnish. 20. Another suggestion for finishing.
+ 21. Use of paint. 22. Ingredients of good paint.
+ 23. Application of paint. 24. Preparation of surface.
+ 25. Tinting materials. 26. Mixing paints. 27. Paint formulas.
+ 28. Formulas for making tinted paint. 29. Enameling.
+ 30. The dipping method. 31. Polishing by tumbling. 32. Care of
+ brushes. 33. Paint application by means of compressed air.
+ 34. Uses of pneumatic sprayers. 35. Construction of pneumatic
+ painting outfit. 36. Special attachments for different surfaces.
+ 37. Cleaning pneumatic machines. 38. Directions for cleaning
+ machine. 39. Directions for operating pneumatic equipment.
+ 40. Preparing colors.
+
+ CHAPTER III. COMMON WOODS USED IN TOY MAKING 42
+
+ 41. Economy in selecting material. 42. Qualities of
+ different woods used.
+
+ CHAPTER IV. USE OF JIGS AND FIXTURES 43
+
+ 43. Value of jigs and fixtures. 44. Cutting small wheels.
+ 45. Turning wheels. 46. Use of wheel cutter. 47. Use of
+ coping saw. 48. Cutting sharp corners. 49. Removing the
+ saw-blade from frame. 50. Making heavy wheels. 51. Designs
+ for wheels. 52. Cutting wheels on band-saw. 53. Boring
+ holes in wheels.
+
+ CHAPTER V. OPERATION OF WOODWORKING MACHINES 54
+
+ 54. Importance of machine operations. 55. Operating the
+ lathe. 56. Face plate turning. 57. The universal saw.
+ 58. The hand jointer. 59. The sander.
+
+
+PART II
+
+DRAWINGS FOR TOYS
+
+ PAGE
+ Plate 1. Fox and Geese Game 64
+ " 2. Ring Toss 65
+ " 3. Baby's Cart 66
+ " 4. Hay Cart 67
+ " 5. Horse Head 68
+ " 6. Horse on Wheels 69
+ " 7. Kido Kar Trailer 70
+ " 8. Auto Roadster 71
+ " 9. Auto Racer 72
+ " 10. Passenger Car 73
+ " 11. Milk Wagon 74
+ " 12. Table for Doll House 75
+ " 13. Chair and Rocker 76
+ " 14. Buffet 77
+ " 15. Toy Wheel-Barrow 78
+ " 16. Horse Barrow 79
+ " 17. Doll's Carriage 80
+ " 18. Noah's Ark 81
+ " 19. "Bean Bag" Game Board 82
+ " 20. Child's Swing No. 1 83
+ " 21. Child's Swing No. 2 84
+ " 22. Doll's Bed, No. 1 85
+ " 23. Doll's Bed, No. 2 86
+ " 24. Adjustable Stilts 87
+ " 25. Scooter 88
+ " 26. Steering Coaster 89
+ " 27. Kido Kar 90
+ " 28. Kid Kar Junior 91
+ " 29. Pony Kar 92
+ " 30. Duplex Speedster 93
+ " 31. Rock-a-Doodle 94
+ " 32. Sled 95
+ " 33. "Sturdy Flyer" Sled 96
+ " 34. Ducky Loo 97
+ " 35. Duck Rocker 98
+ " 36. Jitney 99
+ " 37. Junior Roadster 100
+ " 38. Details of Junior Roadster 101
+ " 39. Senior Coaster 102
+ " 40. Details of Senior Coaster 103
+ " 41. Auto-Kar 104
+ " 42. Choo-Choo-Kar 105
+ " 43. Teeter-Totter 106
+ " 44. Teeter Rocker 107
+ " 45. Checker Board 108
+ " 46. Child's Costumer 109
+ " 47. Baby's Chair 110
+ " 48. Children's Sand Box 111
+ " 49. Sand Box No. 2 112
+ " 50. Doll's House No. 1 113
+ " 51. Doll's House No. 2 114
+ " 52. Doll's House No. 2 115
+ " 53. Dumb Bell & Indian Club 116
+ " 54. Bats 117
+
+
+
+
+SUGGESTIONS TO TEACHERS
+
+
+Where the work is to be done on the so-called productive basis, it is of
+utmost importance that, before starting, the classes should be so
+organized as to allow the work to be carried on in the most efficient,
+progressive manner. The form of shop organization suggested in this book
+is recommended. However, the instructor may, particularly if he has had
+good practical shop experience, employ other methods of organization
+that are just as good and possibly even better for his particular class
+and the conditions under which he has to work.
+
+It is also of great importance that the instructor should acquaint
+himself with the processes involved in the making of each toy before
+allowing the class to begin it. This may be accomplished by the making
+of a sample of the contemplated project, carefully analyzing its
+different parts and arranging the operations in a logical sequence.
+This phase of the work may be done during class discussions and
+demonstrations at which time the different jigs and fixtures needed for
+progressive production may also be developed.
+
+The different methods of coloring toys have been suggested with the hope
+that the student will gain a realization of the importance of finishing,
+from both the artistic and the practical point of view. The application
+of paint by means of compressed air is the latest development in the
+coloring of toys, and an equipment in the school shop illustrating the
+principles of compressed air as applied to productive finishing of toys,
+is a step forward in making school shops function as they should.
+
+The working drawings in this book should serve as suggestions. They have
+been so constructed as to be free from unnecessary technicalities, and
+to leave as much opportunity as possible for the exercise and
+development of the student's judgment.
+
+It will be found that toy making offers itself readily to the desired
+co-operation and correlation with other departments in the school. For
+instance, the art department may aid with the designing and color scheme
+to be used on toys; the general metal shop may help in the making of
+necessary metal parts: the mechanical drawing department can co-operate
+in the making of working drawings; the mathematics department can figure
+the costs of production, etc., etc.
+
+It is hoped that the purpose of this book is not merely to set forth a
+few plans and drawings for the construction of toys, but to give the
+work the broadest possible application; creating a constructive
+influence on the minds of the students, in which case it will also act
+as a means of bringing into closer relationship their life outside of
+school with the work in school.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: TOY MAKING ON A PRODUCTIVE BASIS EMPLOYING FACTORY METHODS]
+
+
+
+
+PART I
+
+OPERATIONS IN TOY MAKING
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+PRODUCTIVE WORK
+
+
+#1. Suggested Plan for Shop Organization.#--While it is entirely
+satisfactory to have any of the toys mentioned in this book made as
+individual projects, they are here offered as suitable group projects or
+production projects. Production work may be defined as work done by a
+class to turn out a number of similar projects that have a marketable
+value, with the aid of jigs, fixtures, and other means of duplication,
+illustrating the industrial or practical application to the tasks in
+hand, Figs. 1, 2, and 3. This does not mean, however, that the school
+shops be transformed into a factory in the full sense of the word. It
+should differ from a factory in that the education of the student is the
+major part of the product, while in the factory production is the
+foremost aim.
+
+In doing work by the productive plan two important problems will present
+themselves at the outset; first, the time element; and second,
+industrial or practical application to the tasks in hand.
+
+A brief explanation of the plan of organization in one of the author's
+classes will attempt to show how nearly these problems can be solved.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1. Material for toys, prepared on a large scale]
+
+#2. Grouping of Students.#--Classes are divided into groups of between
+four and six boys, with a boy foreman appointed at the head of each
+group. The foreman is held responsible for the work turned out by his
+boys. He is to see that they understand just what is to be done and how
+it is to be done. All the group foremen are directly responsible to the
+general foreman who in turn is responsible to the instructor. The
+general foreman is to act as an inspector of finished work after it has
+received the group foreman's O.K. He is also held responsible for the
+condition of the shop during his class hour. This includes looking after
+all material, the manner in which stock is put away after class, and
+adherence to all shop rules that have been adopted to help in the
+efficiency of shop procedure.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 2. A large order of toys partly constructed]
+
+#3. The Time Clerk and Tool-Room Clerk.#--A "_Time Clerk_" is appointed
+to take charge of the time cards. He is also held responsible for all
+the clerical work that is to be done in the shop.
+
+A _Tool-Room Clerk_ is appointed to take charge of the shop tool room.
+He is to keep check of all tools given out and taken in. His spare time
+should be devoted to the care of tools.
+
+If possible, each boy in the class should be given an opportunity to act
+in each capacity that has been created, so that he may get the most
+varied experience in shop procedure. This will necessitate the changing
+of boys from one group to another; the changing of foremen, clerks,
+etc., at intervals which will of course be governed by the size of the
+class and the number of hours devoted to the work.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3. Milk wagons completed by the production method]
+
+#4. Recording Attendance.#--Boys, upon entering the shop, register their
+presence at the Time-Card Rack, Fig. 4. This is done by turning the time
+card shown in Fig. 5, so that the back side, which has the word present
+printed at top, is exposed. The time clerk then inspects the cards and
+notes those that have not been turned, and records the absences. He then
+fills in the date and passes the cards out to the boys in the shop.
+Toward the latter part of the period, a few minutes time is given the
+boys to fill in the necessary data on the time card.
+
+The time cards are then collected by the time clerk and put into a box
+where the time cards of all the classes are kept. In the meantime the
+time clerk puts back into the time rack the cards of the incoming class.
+This duty is performed by the time clerks of all the classes, thereby
+necessitating the use of only one time card rack.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4. The time-card rack.]
+
+#5. Time Cards.#--Referring to the time card mentioned in Fig. 5 it will
+be seen that the workman's shop number is filled in at the top. Then
+under the heading of "Woodworking Department" are two horizontal rows of
+items which need very little explanation. Following are three columns
+headed "Operation," "Assignment," and "Time." Below the word "Operation"
+are set down the various operations undertaken in the woodworking
+department, with several vacant spaces provided where other and special
+operations can be filled in. It will also be noticed that "Operations"
+are divided into two kinds, machine work and bench work. The
+instructor's glance at the time card will tell him at once what phase of
+the work the boy has been employed in and will help him in apportioning
+the work so that the boy is offered a varied experience.
+
+#6. Using Time Card.#--For shops that are not equipped with the kind of
+machines marked on the illustrated card, it would be well to omit the
+names of machines in the "operation" column. The instructor may then
+fill in the operation whatever it may be.
+
+Under the heading "Assignment" and against the operation which is to be
+undertaken by the student, the instructor writes in the name of the part
+to be made. This is the student's assignment and it should be read by
+him at the time he records his presence at the time-card rack upon
+entering the shop.
+
+In making assignments, the instructor may find it rather difficult to
+keep up with large classes of boys. This difficulty may be overcome by
+making an assignment to an entire group instead of to each boy. For
+example, in a class of twenty-five that would probably be divided into
+five groups, the instructor may make the assignment to the foreman of
+each group and each foreman in turn can inform the boys of his group as
+to the nature of the assignment. The boys can then enter the assignment
+on their time cards at the end of the period when the time spent on the
+job at hand is also recorded.
+
+The student's shop number, name, and grade should be filled in by the
+time clerk who can get out a number of cards for each student in advance
+and these are kept ready for use by the instructor. The instructor can
+then mark the project and the job number together with the student's
+assignment. At the same time he estimates the journeyman's time and rate
+and enters them in the space provided.
+
+The time card in Fig. 5, is 3-1/2 inches by 9 inches, made of three-ply
+bristol board. All worker's cards are printed on white colored bristol
+while those of the foremen are of blue colored bristol. This plan is for
+the instructor's convenience to be able to pick out the foremen's time
+cards at a glance.
+
+In the triple column under the heading "TIME" is provided room for the
+date and spaces in which the student can write the time in minutes spent
+on the various operations on that date. The triple columns on each side
+of the card allow of the cards being used for six days. If a job lasts
+longer than six days another card should be used marking them No. 1 and
+No. 2, respectively, in the space marked "Card No." Both cards should be
+fastened and kept together.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5. Time card]
+
+Effort should always be made to have all the assignments short (less
+than six days) so that the student's record may be computed at the end
+of each week by the time clerk.
+
+#7. Grading Students.#--The next four spaces contain in condensed form,
+the information itemized in other parts of the card. This, together with
+other information set down by the instructor, is the vital material
+sought for.
+
+The item A "Journeyman's Time" is very easily recorded by the
+instructor. It is arrived at in the same way as in making out the
+estimate for any piece of work and can be recorded almost at once. The
+main purpose here is to set for the student a standard of time on which
+to work.
+
+The item B is the rate in points per hour, based on the journeyman's
+time.
+
+The item C is the total of the student's time added together from the
+various spaces under "Time."
+
+Item D "Quality Decimal" is the quality of the student's job expressed
+in the form of a decimal, with 100% as the maximum. This mark should be
+filled in by the instructor when the student completes his job.
+
+The next item, the number of points the student earns is found by the
+formula Points = (AxB)D
+
+ Points earned per hour = ((AxB)D)/C
+
+For example, a student receives an assignment to cut to thickness,
+width, and length, sixty chair legs. The size of the legs he is to get
+from the job blueprint. He spends 60 minutes a day, for three days,
+making a total of 180 minutes or 3 hours. The time it would take a
+journeyman to do the same job is estimated at 2 hours. The rate
+adopted is at 80 points per hour; the journeyman therefore earns
+AxB = 2x80 = 160 Points. The quality of the student's job is graded by
+the instructor as 75%. The number of points the student earns is found
+by the formula Points = (AxB)D = (2x80).75 = 120 Points. To find the
+number of points the student earns per hour, divide 120 points by the
+number of hours it took the student to complete the job, which equals
+120/3 = 40, the number of points the student earns per hour. However,
+if the student would be graded 100%, he would earn the same number of
+points as the journeyman. But of course, he would have done it in three
+hours where the journeyman has earned the same number of points in two
+hours. It will readily be seen that this scheme offers the student an
+everlasting incentive to equal the journeyman's record.
+
+Having obtained the points on the time card or assignment card as it may
+be called, these are then transferred to a monthly accomplishment sheet
+as shown in Fig. 6, which is provided for all the students in all
+classes.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 6. Monthly accomplishment sheet]
+
+The total number of points for each boy, group, and class can then be
+easily obtained. These totals can be put up in poster form and hung on
+the shop's bulletin board, showing the standing of each boy, group, and
+class. It is surprising the amount of interest and competition that can
+be aroused; everyone working for the highest honors, unconsciously, with
+a competitive spirit that will bring out considerable thought and effort
+to the matter of handling material for maximum production.
+
+#8. Preliminary Discussion and Preparation for Shopwork.#--Of course, no
+time card or assignment-record scheme can hope entirely to eliminate the
+necessary preliminary discussions and preparation. The author has found
+it of material help to meet the foremen of all the classes at hours
+other than their regular class hour and discuss such topics as "Securing
+Cooperation," "Instructing Workers," "Maintaining Cleanliness and
+Order," "Records and Reports," "Inspecting Work," "Routing Material Thru
+Shop," "Care of Stock," etc.
+
+Details regarding construction and assembling should be worked out by
+the instructor beforehand, and also developed with the class as the work
+progresses. Care should be taken that plans are carefully made regarding
+the storage of stock and unfinished parts.
+
+The old saying, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," is an
+old one, but a good one.
+
+#9. Bazaars, Toy Sales, Etc.#--The plan of selling toys, that are made
+in the school shop, to the boys and girls of the school is a plausible
+one. It can very easily be accomplished in the form of bazaars,
+exhibitions, or school toy sales.
+
+The writer has had a number of samples of different toys made and put on
+exhibition, and orders taken, requiring a deposit on each order. These
+were then turned in to the shop department and the toys made on the
+productive plan.
+
+The boys in the shop would receive school checks, Fig. 7, for the total
+number of points that they earned for the semester. These checks could
+then be used by them towards the purchasing of any of the toys that were
+put on sale; a certain number of points required for the purchase of
+different toys.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7. Credit check, based on number of points carved]
+
+This plan was made possible by adding on to the number of orders
+received an additional number equal to the number of boys in the shop.
+For example, twenty-four orders for toy milk wagons were received by a
+class of twenty-four boys. Then instead of making twenty-four toy milk
+wagons we doubled the number and made forty-eight of them. The price
+that was figured on for the twenty-four orders would more than cover the
+cost of material for the other twenty-four articles that the boys would
+be able to buy with their earned checks.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+COLORING TOYS
+
+
+#10. Sanitation Emphasized.#--All application of color to toys should
+carry with it a realization that toys are meant primarily for children
+and that all paints should therefore be free from poisonous compounds.
+
+All paints used should be of good quality so that it will not come off
+easily to discolor the hands or tongues of children who cannot resist
+the temptation of sticking everything possible into their mouths.
+
+#11. Preparation of Surfaces.#--Wooden toys may be finished quite bright
+and in various colors.
+
+Before applying the color it is absolutely necessary that every part of
+the toy has been thoroly sanded. Where sanding is done by machine, care
+should be taken not to sand the wood too much. Many difficulties may
+arise from too much as well as from too little sanding. In hand sanding,
+the use of a block 2-1/2" x 3-1/2", to which is glued a piece of cork,
+is recommended.
+
+#12. Application of Water Colors.#--Toys may be colored by the use of
+different materials and by various methods. Kalsomine colors, opaque
+water colors, variously known as show card colors, liquid tempera, and
+letterine,--all come under the heading of water colors. All but the
+kalsomine may be obtained in small jars and ready for use. Kalsomine
+colors come in powder form in various colors and may easily be prepared
+by mixing with water and a little glue to bind the parts together. They
+are much cheaper than the ordinary forms of transparent and opaque water
+colors. They may be applied with the ordinary water color brushes.
+
+After a coat of water color has been applied to the toy, it may be
+necessary to remove the rough parts with very fine sand paper. Care
+should be taken not to "cut thru" when sanding.
+
+To preserve and protect the water color on the toy a coat of white
+shellac may be applied. If a more durable finish is desired a coat of
+good clear varnish over the shellac will serve the purpose.
+
+#13. Analine Water Stains.#--For general finishing of toys analine water
+stains will produce excellent results. They are known for their ability
+to penetrate the wood deeply and the ease with which any shade can be
+produced. Water stain raises the grain of the wood more than any other.
+This makes it necessary to sandpaper down the raised grain until smooth
+and then proceed with the shellacking and varnishing until the desired
+results are obtained.
+
+In preparing analine water stains, only analines that are soluble in
+water are used. Place an ounce of the analine to a quart of hot or
+boiling water, pouring the water over the dye-stuff and stirring
+meanwhile with a wooden paddle or stick. Soft water is the best. In
+about an hour the dye may be filtered thru a piece of fine woven cloth.
+As metal is apt to discolor the dye, it is better to use a glass
+container. If the prepared solution is too strong it may be diluted in
+more water. Use hot water for diluting the stain.
+
+The work with water stain must be done quickly in order to obtain a
+uniform coloring on the surface. Water stains are used a great deal
+where the dipping process is employed in the finishing of toys. A hot
+dipping stain is preferable to a cold dipping stain, first, because it
+penetrates more readily and second, because it dries quicker.
+
+#14. Formulas for Analine Water Stains.#--(Stock Solutions).
+
+_Red_: Rose benzol five parts, water ten parts.
+
+_Rose Red_: Dissolve 3 oz. Rose Bengal in 5 pints of water.
+
+_Blue_: (a) Dissolve 1 oz. of the best indigo carmine in 8 oz. of
+water. (b) Prussian blue dissolved in water.
+
+_Dark Blue_: Dissolve 3 oz. Bengal blue in 3-1/2 pints of boiling water,
+and stir and filter the fluid in ten minutes time.
+
+_Green_: Mix Prussian blue and raw sienna in such proportions as will
+give the desired color. Mix in water.
+
+_Brown_: Dissolve 3 oz. of Bismark brown in 1/2 gal. of water.
+
+_Yellow_: Auramine 4 parts, sulphate of soda 10 parts, mixed in water.
+
+_Black_: Nigrosine black, four ounces, dissolved in one gallon of
+boiling water.
+
+When wanted for use, these analines may be diluted with water. The rule
+is, an ounce of analine to the gallon of water to form a working stain.
+Or to a pint of the stock solution, as it is called, you may add three
+pints of water.
+
+#15. Oil Stains.#--It will be found that quicker work can be done with
+oil stain than with water colors. For that reason, oil stains are also
+used a great deal as a dipping stain. In preparing oil stains, the best
+mineral or earth pigments to dissolve with turpentine are Van Dyke
+brown, chrome green, burnt and raw sienna, and lamp black.
+
+#16. Shellacking.#--There are two kinds of shellac, orange and white.
+The white shellac is orange shellac that has been bleached. The purpose
+of shellac as commonly understood is to give a quick coat over the
+stain. The thin coat formed serves as a protector for the stain and also
+as an undercoater for the following coat of varnish. In this way at
+least one coat of varnish is eliminated and a great deal of time saved
+because the shellac dries within a few minutes. To thin shellac use
+denatured alcohol.
+
+On cheaper toys a coat of shellac only may be used as a covering for the
+color stain. If orange shellac is used it will be found that it effects
+the color of the stain used. White shellac also produces a slight change
+in color and for this reason many working with toys will use a good
+clear varnish instead.
+
+#17. Varnishing.#--Two or three coats of varnish will produce a very
+durable finish. The first coat of varnish ought not be quite as heavy as
+the succeeding coats. If the varnish is of extra heavy body it should be
+reduced slightly for the first coat. The best varnish reducer is thin
+varnish. To prepare this reducer, take one part varnish (the same
+varnish to be reduced), and two parts of turpentine. Shake these
+together well and let stand twenty-four hours before using. This will
+reduce the consistency of the varnish without tearing down the body as
+pure turpentine would. The first coat of varnish should be allowed to
+dry thoroly before the second coat is applied.
+
+Oil varnishes made from good hard gums, pure linseed oil, and
+turpentine, are the most valuable. In using turpentine to thin varnish
+care should be taken that adulterated turpentine is not used. To play
+the game safe it is advisable to use a little benzine, for it will not
+injure the varnish, but will evaporate entirely, and not flatten the
+varnish as turpentine does.
+
+#18. Points on Varnishing.#--(1) The less varnish is worked under the
+brush the better its luster. (2) Use clean brush and pot, and clean
+varnish. See that the surface is clean before beginning to varnish. (3)
+Allow a coat of varnish plenty of time for drying until it becomes hard.
+
+#19. Colored Varnish.#--Colored varnish is that in which a proportion of
+varnish is added to the pigment and thinned. The base is usually an
+earth color such as ochre, sienna, venitian red, Van Dyke brown, umber,
+lamp black, etc.
+
+With this the work can be done in one coat. This method of finishing is
+usually employed on the cheaper class of toys where it isn't advisable
+to apply an expensive finish.
+
+#20. Another Suggestion for Finishing.#--Tint a gallon of benzine or
+gasoline with chrome green, chrome yellow, and vermilion, ground in
+Japan until the desired shade is obtained. This formulae is especially
+good for dipping purposes.
+
+#21. Use of Paint.#--Although paint can be bought ready prepared and in
+any color, as has been stated, it is advisable to have the students mix
+their own colors and choose their own color scheme.
+
+#22. Ingredients of good Paint.#--The best paints are usually made by
+mixing together white lead, linseed oil, pigment of the desired color
+(colors ground in oil), and a drier.
+
+While white lead is sufficient as the pigment for white paint, a better
+result is obtained by mixing zinc oxide with the white lead. These two
+substances have the convenient property of balancing each other's
+disadvantages. For instance, zinc oxide has a tendency to crack and to
+peal, which is overcome by the tougher coating formed by the white lead.
+Again, when white lead is exposed to light and weathering, it becomes
+chalky, which fault is remedied by the property possessed by zinc oxide,
+of remaining hard.
+
+The linseed oil used is obtained from flaxseed by pressing the thoroly
+ground seed. About twenty-three gallons of oil can be obtained from one
+bushel of the seed. By boiling the oil with lead oxide or manganese
+oxide it can take more oxygen from the air, and thereby its drying
+powers are increased.
+
+Driers are substances that absorb oxygen from the air and give part of
+it to the oil. The raw linseed oil absorbs the oxygen from the air very
+slowly, but the addition of turpentine is a great aid in overcoming this
+defect.
+
+To insure the best results in painting, one must first consider the kind
+and condition of the surface to be painted, and to what use the toy will
+be put; then decide on the proper composition and consistency of the
+paint.
+
+#23. Application of Paint.#--In applying the paint to the toy the first
+coat should be thinned. This will act as a primer or undercoat for the
+succeeding coats of paint. Care should be taken that plenty of time is
+allowed between coats for the paint to dry thoroly. Three coats of paint
+will produce a good finish.
+
+#24. Preparation of surface.#--All woodwork must be sanded and thoroly
+dry before any paint is applied. Care should be taken to see that all
+knots and sappy streaks shall be covered with a coat of orange shellac.
+Then apply the first coat.
+
+After the priming coat of paint is thoroly dry, putty up all knot holes,
+dents, cracks, and other defects in the surface with a pure linseed oil
+putty composed of equal parts of white lead and whiting. When putty is
+dry, proceed with the other coats.
+
+#25. Tinting Materials.#--Formulas for making tints are to be followed
+only in a general way. Make some allowance for slight variations in the
+strength and tone of different makes of colors. Chromes and ochres vary
+noticeably. Weigh out your color and add it gradually, not all at once,
+noting the effect as you go. When you reach the desired shade, stop,
+regardless of what the formula calls for. Turpentine and dark driers
+will slightly alter shades. Make allowance for this.
+
+#26. Mixing Paints.#--Faulty mixing, even with the best of materials, is
+not likely to make durable paint. The important thing is to give the
+lead and oil a chance to incorporate themselves in that close union
+which they always make if allowed to do so. The following directions
+give best results. The order is important.
+
+(1) Break up the white lead with a paddle, using only enough oil to
+bring it to the consistency of colors in oil.
+
+(2) Add your colors for tinting. Coloring matter added after the paint
+has been thinned is likely to break up in lumps which leave streaks
+when brushed out.
+
+(3) Put in drier.
+
+(4) Add remainder of oil, stirring well.
+
+(5) Last of all, put in turpentine.
+
+Thinners help only the flow of the paint never the quality.
+
+To strain paint thru cheese cloth before using will be a safeguard
+against lumpy colors and streakiness. Paint also spreads further if
+strained.
+
+#27. Paint Formulas.#--As most toys are exposed to the weather a great
+deal, the following formulas are recommended. These take no account of
+tinting materials.
+
+(a) Priming Coat:
+
+ 25 pounds pure white lead
+ 1 gallon pure raw linseed oil
+ 1/2 gallon pure turpentine
+ 1/4 pint drier, free from rosin
+
+(b) Body Coat:
+
+ 25 pounds pure white lead
+ 3/8 gallon pure raw linseed oil
+ 3/8 gallon pure turpentine
+ 1/4 pint drier, free from rosin
+
+(c) Finishing Coat:
+
+ 25 pounds pure white lead
+ 1 gallon pure raw linseed oil
+ 1/4 pint pure turpentine
+ 1/4 pint drier.
+
+One must exercise his own discretion in using a larger or smaller
+quantity of oil according to whether the wood is oil absorbing, as white
+pine, poplar, and basswood, or less permeable, as yellow pine, cypress,
+spruce, and hemlock.
+
+#28. Formulas for Making Tinted Paint.#--Any color or tint may be
+obtained by varying the addition of tinting colors. These tinting colors
+are called "colors in oil." The colors should be added to the white lead
+before the paint is thinned.
+
+To twenty-five pounds of white lead ground in oil add colors in oil as
+follows:
+
+ Medium Blue Slate 3-1/2 oz. lamp black
+
+ Gray Blue 1/4 oz. lamp black
+ 1 oz. Prussian blue
+ 1/4 oz. medium chrome green
+
+ Dark Drab 5 lbs. French ochre
+ 1/2 lb. lamp black
+ 1/4 lb. Venitian red
+
+ Dark Slate 2 oz. lamp black
+ 3 oz. medium chrome yellow
+
+ Dark Lilac 1 oz. lamp black
+ 5 oz. Venitian red
+
+ Lilac 1/2 oz. lamp black
+ 1-1/2 oz. Venitian red
+
+ Forest Green 1-1/2 oz. lamp black
+ 8 lbs. light green
+ 5 oz. medium chrome yellow
+
+ Buff 1-1/2 lb. French ochre
+ 3/8 oz. Venitian Red
+
+ Cream 5 oz. French ochre
+
+ Sea Green 3/8 oz. lamp black
+ 1/2 oz. medium chrome green
+ 1-1/4 oz. medium chrome yellow
+
+Where tinting colors are used in sufficiently large quantities to alter
+the consistency of the paint, add one-half as much linseed oil and
+turpentine, by weight, as you add tinting material.
+
+#29. Enameling.#--When using enamel as a finish for toys, care should be
+taken that the surface of the toy is in proper condition. To obtain good
+results proceed as follows: Give the wood a coat of shellac. Sand
+lightly and dust. The following coat should consist of part of white
+paint and one part of the enamel to be used. This coat should be
+slightly tinted with the finishing color, if the finishing coat is not
+white. Allow twenty-four hours for drying thoroly; then sand with
+No. OO sand paper. Next apply a coat of enamel of the color desired for
+the finished work. (Enamels may be tinted with colors ground in oil.)
+
+Should the enamel not work freely, add a spoonful of benzine to a gallon
+of enamel. Turpentine may also be used as a thinner for enamel.
+
+A better finish of enamel consists of two coats of paint before applying
+the enamel. This gives it a stronger body and of course makes it more
+durable.
+
+Because of its durability and for sanitary reasons enamel is the most
+desirable finish for toys. Its glossy finish is attractive and very
+appealing to children.
+
+#30. The Dipping Method.#--When a considerable quantity of toys is to be
+finished, the problem to be faced will be the cost of application of the
+paint rather than the cost of the paint itself. The dipping process,
+(immersing the material to be covered) is found to be the most
+successful, especially in toy making, where so many small parts are
+used.
+
+Many of the small pieces made can be subjected to the dipping process at
+quite a saving of time and labor, with probably better results than
+where the application of paint or stain is done with a brush.
+
+The success of the dipping process depends on the arrangement adopted
+for holding the toys while the actual dipping is done and while they are
+drying. Here the exercise of a little ingenuity on the part of the
+students and teacher, will overcome most difficulties.
+
+Supposing that a number of checkers, or handles, or small wheels are to
+be stained. A dipping frame as shown in Fig. 8 could very easily be
+prepared. You will notice the screen tray (which is removable), and the
+tin sheet which slopes towards the container. The small pieces to be
+stained can be handled in wire baskets with mesh just small enough so
+that the pieces will not fall thru.
+
+The wire basket is then immersed in the container and worked up and
+down, so that the liquid will penetrate and touch all pieces. It is then
+pulled up and swung over the screen tray, where the contents of the wire
+basket is dumped. Here, the superfluous paint will drip off on the tin
+sheet, which, because of its slope, will cause the superfluous paint to
+flow back in to the container. Fig. 9 shows the dipping frame in use.
+
+The screen tray can be removed and placed in a rack to allow for further
+drying. Several trays could then be made and a rack to hold them could
+very easily be constructed.
+
+The paint used for dipping purposes must so be prepared that too much
+does not run off or too much stay on, for this is surely one way to
+spoil the work. It should be thinned to the right consistency and care
+should be taken that the thinners used are of the best quality.
+
+Where larger pieces of work are to be dipped, wire attachments could be
+devised and each part hung separately over the dipping frame until ready
+to be placed in a rack. If the wire attachment forms a hook on one end,
+it will be possible to hang up the toy until drained and dried. In
+removing the toy from the paint it should be drawn out very slowly so
+that the surface of the paint may be left as smooth as possible.
+
+Where one desires line effects on toys, these may be lined in afterwards
+with a small size striping brush or sign painter's pencil.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8. Dipping frame]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9. Using the dipping frame]
+
+#31. Polishing by Tumbling.#---Excellent results in polishing large
+quantities of small pieces, may be obtained by tumbling. The material to
+be polished should be thoroly dry. The parts are then placed in a
+tumbler as shown in Fig. 10. Cut up paraffine wax into small pieces,
+using about one-fourth pound to each tumbler full of toys. Allow these
+to tumble several hours. This will distribute the wax evenly over the
+parts and produce a polished surface.
+
+The tumbler as shown in Fig. 10 is turned by hand, altho it could very
+easily be placed in a lathe, where one is available.
+
+#32. Care of Brushes.#--A suitable place should be provided for brushes
+that are not in use. A tin-lined keeper is recommended. Brushes should
+be suspended so that their bristles will not touch the bottom of the
+keeper, and have the liquid in which they are kept come well up over the
+bristles, so that none of the paint or varnish may dry in the butt of
+the brush.
+
+#33. Paint Application by Means of Compressed Air.#--In recent years,
+great advancement has been made in the application of paint by means of
+compressed air. The early use of pneumatic painting equipment was
+confined almost exclusively to the application of finishing materials
+such as japans, enamels, lacquers, varnishes, etc., on manufactured
+products. But in the past few years improvements have been made which
+eliminate all of the difficulties originally experienced and make
+possible the use of this method for interior and exterior painting, such
+as buildings, ships, etc.; and at present, a large portion of factory
+maintenance work is done in this manner. Excessive fumes have been
+eliminated and all materials can be applied without removing the
+volatile thinners, solvents, binders, etc., thru air reduction. This is
+brought about thru the use of low pressure and the perfection of
+ingenious patent nozzles and other improvements.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10. Tumbler for polishing small pieces]
+
+#34. Uses of Pneumatic Sprayers.#--Pneumatic paint sprayers, or air
+brushes, are extensively used in the manufacture of toys, furniture,
+automobile bodies, sewing machines, telephones, electrical equipment; in
+fact, very nearly all manufactured products, as well as on ships,
+structural steel and iron work, bridges and buildings.
+
+The speed of the air brush is very great compared with hand-brush work.
+Usually, an air-brush operator will accomplish as much in one hour as a
+hand or bristle-brush worker will in one day; and it is possible to
+obtain an even coating, free from sags, runs or brush-marks and better
+results are obtained than with the hand brush method. A film of paint
+can be applied in one operation equal to two hand-brush coats, as it is
+not necessary to reduce paints by thinning as much for air brush
+application, in a great many instances, as is the usual practice for
+hand-brushing. The air sprayer can also reach places inaccessible to the
+hand brush, and a perfect coat can be applied over rough, uneven
+surfaces, which could not be obtained by hand-brushing.
+
+In considering pneumatic painting equipment, the most important thing to
+be kept in mind is the proper application of materials. This can be
+successfully accomplished only thru the use of compressed air at low
+pressures. By this is meant using only sufficient main-line air to lay
+the paint, enamel, varnish or whatever finish may be used, on the
+object. Excessive pressure results in fumes, waste of material and air
+reduction taking place. By air reduction is meant the removal of the
+more volatile solvents, thinners, binders, etc., thru evaporation, and
+the material thus loses its adherent and coherent properties.
+
+Both types of air-brush equipment illustrated here require three cubic
+feet of air per minute to operate and the pressure necessary depends on
+the density, consistency or viscosity of the material used. For example,
+undercoaters, japans, etc.; require from twelve to fifteen pounds of
+pressure to apply perfectly; while enamels and varnishes take from
+eighteen to twenty-five pounds. Water stains require about five pounds
+of pressure.
+
+#35. Construction of Pneumatic Painting Outfit.#--A pneumatic painting
+outfit for finishing work consists essentially of an air brush, either
+of the attached-container type or the gun-type with separate paint
+tank, and a small compressor of sufficient capacity to operate the air
+brush, which can be belt-driven from shafting or direct connected. An
+exhaust hood with fan, for the removal of fumes, is advisable where the
+operation is reasonably continuous and especially where lacquers are
+used. The paint, ready for application, is poured into the tank; and the
+compressed air line leads to the tank with a branch line for air and
+paint from the tank to the nozzle of the gun type of machine; while only
+the air line is required with the attached-container type.
+
+The air hose used is 5/16" in diameter while the paint or fluid hose is
+the same size. The paint hose is made of a special compound to resist
+the action of the thinners, solvents, etc., used in the paint; and it is
+important to have this correct, so that the lining will not disintegrate
+and clog the air brush or gun.
+
+Fig. 11 shows a five-gallon container type. It will be noticed that the
+fluid connection is nearest the nozzle and that the air connection is at
+the bottom of the grip.
+
+#36. Special Attachments for Different Surfaces.#--A cone nozzle is
+furnished for painting irregular surfaces and a fan nozzle for wide,
+flat work. Adjusting and locking the nozzle regulates the degree of
+atomization. The jets of the fan nozzle are depressed to prevent being
+knocked out of alignment. Final regulation of the flow of material is
+made on the back of the gun, independent of the pressure on the material
+container. A wide variety of adjustment is possible with this positive
+regulation.
+
+The first pull on the trigger gives air only, which can be used for
+dusting ahead of the work; and as the trigger is released, the air valve
+closes last, which prevents clogging and dripping. When adjustments have
+been made the trigger action is the only moving part of the machine.
+Figs. 12 and 13 show the five-gallon container type in actual use.
+
+#37. Cleaning Pneumatic Machines.#--It is not necessary to take the gun
+apart nor disconnect the hose to clean the machine. Thinner can be run
+thru the device without loss by placing a small can of reducer of the
+last material used in the machine, and forcing it thru in the usual
+manner.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 11. A five-gallon air brush outfit]
+
+#38. Directions for Cleaning Machine.#--Close right-hand Air Valve and
+open release valve. Unscrew air nozzle a few turns. Obstruct outlet with
+thumb and pull trigger. Spraying pressure is thus forced thru gun and
+fluid hose and the material backed into the container. It is advisable
+frequently to run thinner thru the machine as follows: (1) Place small
+can of thinner in center of container directly beneath fluid tube. (2)
+Replace cover and tighten wing-nuts. (3) Close left-hand air valve and
+open right-hand air valve. Pressure on container will force thinner thru
+the machine and clean perfectly without loss. Do not use spraying
+pressure in cleaning. The thinner can be used again for either cleaning
+or thinning purposes.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12. Using pneumatic paint sprayers]
+
+#39. Directions for Operating Pneumatic Equipment.#--
+
+1. Attach main-line air hose to air filter.
+
+2. Attach fluid hose to connection marked "Fluid" on tank and to the
+front connection near air nozzle on hand-piece.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13. A five-gallon outfit in actual use]
+
+3. Attach air hose to connection marked "Air" on cover and to the handle
+connection on hand-piece.
+
+4. Thoroly mix and strain material so that it is entirely free from
+skins, lumps, and foreign materials.
+
+5. Tighten wing-nuts until paint container is air-tight.
+
+6. See that release valve is closed. Then open right-hand air valve,
+turn fluid-pressure regulator until gage shows 5 lbs. pressure in
+container. Pull trigger and use fluid regulator on gun to control the
+flow. If material is heavy, increase pressure in container.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14. Attached container type of sprayer]
+
+7. Open left-hand air valve and turn spraying pressure regulator until
+sufficient pressure (5 lbs. to 25 lbs.), is obtained to lay the material
+on.
+
+8. Make final adjustment of the flow of material with fluid regulator on
+back of hand-piece and get proper spray by adjusting the air nozzle.
+
+9. Spraying pressure and pressure in the container depends upon the
+density of the material used and the size of the surface to be coated. A
+little experimenting on the part of the operator will determine the best
+pressure to use. When the fan nozzle is used, 3 to 5 lbs. more pressure
+should be applied to the material container and from 5 to 8 lbs. more
+atomizing or spraying pressure used.
+
+Fig. 14 shows a complete attached container which operates on
+identically the same principles as the type shown in Fig. 11. It
+consists of a 1-1/2 pint container, reducing outfit, compressor, and air
+tank. The 1-1/2 pint container as shown in Fig. 15 is supplied complete
+with two fluid tips, gasket, agitator tube, cup-holder, hose union, and
+six feet of air hose.
+
+The reducing outfit in Fig. 16 consists of a regulative valve, an air
+gage, and an air filter, complete with connections and fittings. This
+outfit is for the purpose of maintaining an even low spraying pressure.
+
+Regulated pressure is applied to the air-tight material container,
+raising the coating material to the nozzle where only sufficient
+main-line pressure is used to lay the coating on. The spraying pressure
+necessarily depends on the density, consistency and viscosity of the
+material used.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 15. A one and one-half pint container and parts]
+
+For fine finishing work, where the quantity of materials used each day
+is not great, or where the colors are changed frequently, the attached
+container type is recommended.
+
+#40. Preparing Colors.#--The three primary colors are red, blue and
+yellow. With the three primary colors at hand, almost every variety of
+color desirable for ordinary use can be easily prepared. Fig. 17 shows a
+color chart.
+
+ Red mixed with yellow will result in orange.
+ Red mixed with blue will result in purple.
+ Yellow mixed with blue will result in green.
+
+The colors obtained by mixing any two primaries are called secondary
+colors. Therefor the secondary colors are orange, purple and green.
+
+Orange mixed with purple will result in brown.
+
+Orange mixed with green will result in olive.
+
+Purple mixed with green will result in slate.
+
+The colors obtained by mixing any two secondaries are called tertiary
+colors.
+
+The tertiary colors are brown, olive and slate.
+
+Of course different tones of each color can be made up by mixing unequal
+proportions.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16. Reducing outfit]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17. Chart showing proportions required for standard
+colors]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+COMMON WOODS USED IN TOY MAKING
+
+
+#41. Economy in Selecting Material.#--Economic use of materials should
+be encouraged at all times. Toy making offers an excellent opportunity
+where economy may be taught in the most practical way.
+
+Where toys are to be painted, more than one kind of wood may be used in
+the same toy and thereby using up small pieces of wood that would
+otherwise be called scrap. Yet, it is not advisable to sacrifice the
+strength and durability of the whole toy for the sake of using up a
+piece of scrap wood which weakens the particular part of the toy where
+it is used. For that, in the long run, is not economy.
+
+#42. Qualities of Different Woods Used.#--The following are some of the
+common woods used in toy making.
+
+Maple: hard, fine grained, compact, tough, used for wheels, axles,
+handles, dowel rods, etc.
+
+Ash: white, strong, open grained, easily worked; used for bodies of
+coasters, wheels, axles, oars, etc.
+
+Oak: hard, firm and compact, strong and durable, hard to work.
+
+Birch: moderately hard and heavy, even grained; difficult to split, but
+easily worked.
+
+Chestnut: resembles oak in appearance, is much softer, moderately hard,
+course grained, not strong, but durable.
+
+Cypress: moderately hard, very fine and close grained, virtually
+indestructable; known as "the wood eternal".
+
+Basswood: white, light, soft, tough, closed grained, easily worked, not
+strong, but durable; used for almost any part of a toy where much
+strength is not required.
+
+White Pine: very light, soft, close and straight grained, inferior; easy
+to work.
+
+Yellow Pine, yellowish, grain noticeable, harder than white pine,
+stronger.
+
+Tulip (yellow poplar): light, soft, close and straight grained; tougher
+than many woods equally soft, compact, not very strong or durable,
+easily worked.
+
+Spruce: straight growing, light, straight and even in grain, tough,
+elastic, easy to work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+USE OF JIGS AND FIXTURES
+
+
+#43. Value of Jigs and Fixtures.#--The use of jigs, fixtures, and other
+labor-saving devices is an important factor in illustrating industrial
+and practical applications in the school shop. It is advisable to let
+each group of boys work out its own jig or fixture for the particular
+job they have on hand.
+
+The three most common forms of jigs are cutting jigs, boring jigs, and
+assembling jigs. The important reasons for the use of such devices are:
+(1) They illustrate the speed of output in shop work. (2) They give the
+student a good idea of machine operation. (3) They help in making the
+parts interchangeable. (4) They offer an opportunity for getting first
+hand information on cutting edge tools and their proper uses. (5) They
+show the boy the value of the use of jigs in factory work.
+
+The toys illustrated in this book have many simple operations, such as
+cutting stock to length, drilling holes, surfacing, etc., that can be
+easily done by the use of the proper fixtures.
+
+For that reason toys are desirable projects to be made by the productive
+plan. Fig. 18 shows the use of a jig and the miter box.
+
+#44. Cutting Small Wheels.#--A circle of the desired size wheel may be
+laid out on the wood with the aid of a compass, and cut in the outline
+with a coping saw or band saw. Of course, it would take quite a long
+time by this method to make the small wheels in large quantities and
+besides the result would not be as good as when the wheels are made by
+machine.
+
+#45. Turning Wheels.#--Another way to produce wheels is to turn a
+cylinder to the required diameter, on the turning lathe. Then cut the
+cylinder on the circular saw into required thicknesses of wheels
+desired. This method is recommended for quick work.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18. Production of toys by use of jigs]
+
+If it is desired to round the end of wheels the operation can be done by
+leaving the cylinder in the lathe and applying the broad side of the
+skew chisel as shown in Fig. 33. The wheels may then be polished with a
+cloth after they have been sanded and while rotating in the lathe as
+shown in Fig. 34. In sanding, use first a fairly course grade of
+sandpaper, No. 1 or 1-1/2 and afterwards a fine grade, No. O or OO.
+Before applying the cloth the wood may be varnished lightly while the
+lathe is not running, taking care to wipe off all the surplus varnish.
+The varnish will assist in giving the surface a fine polish when the
+cloth is applied. For further explanations of the use of the turning
+lathe, see Sec. 55.
+
+#46. Use of Wheel Cutter.#--Still another method of making small wheels
+is by use of the wheel cutter as shown in Fig. 19. This wheel cutter may
+be used in the ordinary bit brace. Good results may be obtained where
+the wheels are made out of thin, soft wood.
+
+This wheel cutter is known on the market as a leather washer cutter. If
+one cannot be obtained it can easily be made in the school machine shop
+at a small cost. Fig. 20 shows a drawing of a wheel cutter.
+
+You will notice that the blade can be adjusted to cut any diameter
+desired.
+
+#47. Use of Coping Saw.#--Where a band saw is not included in the shop
+equipment, many articles such as animal forms and small wheels could
+very easily be cut out with a coping saw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19. Wheel cutter in use]
+
+A saw board, as shown in Fig. 21 should be fastened to a table top with
+an iron clamp; or, a saw board made to fasten in a vise may also be
+used.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20. Details of a wheel cutter which may be made in
+school]
+
+When cutting out the toy part, the coping saw should be held in a
+vertical position as shown in Fig. 22, and in an up-and-down motion,
+with short fast strokes, following the outline carefully. Cut on the
+line. Do not press hard on the saw for the blade is very thin and can
+very easily be broken, but it should last a long time if used correctly.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21. Clamping the saw board to the bench]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22. Correct method of holding coping saw]
+
+#48. Cutting Sharp Corners.#--When cutting a sharp turn in the wood with
+the coping saw, care should be taken not to twist the saw blade out of
+shape. Upon reaching the sharp turn, continue the up-and-down motion,
+but without doing any cutting; turn the wood very slowly until you have
+made the complete turn, then continue with the sawing and follow the
+rest of the outline carefully.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23. Removing the saw-blade]
+
+#49. Removing the Saw-Blade from Frame.#--To remove the saw-blade from
+the frame, place the head of the frame against the table top as shown in
+Fig. 23. Pressing down on the handle will release the saw-blade. When
+inserting the blade into the frame the same method may be followed,
+being careful that the teeth of the saw-blade point toward the handle of
+the frame. The blade may be put in the end or the side slots of the
+frame, using the side slots only when the end slots will not serve the
+purpose.
+
+#50. Making Heavy Wheels.#--In turning heavier wheels that are to be
+used for coasters, kiddie cars, etc., the work is done with the head
+stock only, the wood being supported by the screw-center chuck or face
+plate.
+
+In turning the wheel the first step is the scraping cut as shown in Fig.
+24. This cut is properly made with the concave chisel held in such a
+position as to give a light scraping cut. Care should be exercised not
+to allow the chisel to extend too deeply, otherwise the material will
+chip with the grain.
+
+After the desired circumference has been obtained the surface should be
+worked to the desired form as shown in Fig. 25. This is accomplished by
+using the lathe rest, set at right angles with the bed or parallel with
+the face plate. The illustration in Fig. 26 shows the use of the
+dividers in marking off the position of the various corrugations in the
+wheel that is being turned. The sanding should be done while the wheel
+is in the lathe. Use first a fairly course grade of sand paper and
+afterwards a fine grade, No. O or OO.
+
+#51. Designs for Wheels.#--Suggestions for wooden toy wheels are shown
+in Fig. 27. Those numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 are plain wooden
+wheels varying in design only. No. 8 and 9 are re-enforced with zinc and
+large iron washers. No. 10 shows a segment of an iron pipe fitted in the
+center of the wheel to prevent wearing away of material. No. 11 shows a
+spoke wheel. The spokes are made of dowel rods; these fitting into a hub
+that can easily be turned out on the lathe. No. 13 shows a wheel built
+in segments which is then cut out on the band saw to resemble a standard
+spoke wheel. The rim is 1/8" steel, fastened to spokes with very small
+rivets.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24. Making heavy wheels. The scraping cut]
+
+#52. Cutting Wheels on Band-Saw.#--A circle of the required size wheel
+may be marked off on the wood with a compass, then cut in the outline on
+the band-saw. This method will leave square corners and will be more or
+less out of truth with the center of the wheel. To true up and smooth
+the outside of the wheel the lathe attachment as shown in Fig. 28 can be
+easily prepared. This attachment consists of a block _A_ fastened to the
+lathe bed with a single bolt, and a stop _B_ fastened to the upper face
+of the block _A_. The carriage _C_ is a loose piece the same thickness
+as the stop _B_ and is provided with a dowel rod to fit the central hole
+in the wheel. This dowel rod is so located that when the edge of the
+carriage _C_ is tight against the edge of the stop _D_, the distance
+from the center of the dowel rod to the face of the abrasive material
+on the disk, will be equal to the radius of the finished wheel.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25. Smoothing the side of wheels]
+
+The wood is cut out on the band saw a scant 1/16" over-size in diameter,
+and is then placed on the dowel rod in the carriage _C_ which is held
+flat on block _A_ while the edge of the blank is brought in contact with
+the grinding disc face by pushing the carriage forward with the left
+hand while the blank is slowly revolved with the right. This grinding is
+continued until the edges of stop _B_ and carriage _C_ will remain in
+contact during a complete revolution of the wheel blank. During this
+grinding process, the carriage should be moved back and forth from the
+edge to the center of the grinding disc so that the wear on the abrasive
+material may be equalized.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26. Using dividers to mark for cuts]
+
+A similar device used for chamfering the edges of the blanks is also
+shown in Fig. 28, as it looks when viewed from the front of the lathe.
+The preceding description will suffice for this as the same system of
+lettering has been used. It differs only in that block _A_ is made to
+set at an angle of 45 degrees instead of being level.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27. Many ways of making wheels for toys]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28. Simple attachments which may be made for lathe]
+
+Grinding discs may be made either of metal or wood. Metal is preferable
+but a hardwood disc fastened to a metal face plate will answer very
+well. There are many methods of fastening the abrasing material to the
+disc but the most convenient way is by the use of stick belt dressing.
+The disc is coated with dressing by holding the stick against it as it
+revolves and the abrasive is applied before the dressing has set. A pair
+of dividers or trammels is used to cut the abrasive material to the same
+diameter as the disc and it should be warmed on the uncoated side before
+it is applied. It sticks tightly to the disc but is easily removed and
+replaced with fresh material in a few minutes.
+
+#53. Boring Holes in Wheels.#--The center holes in wheels may be bored
+with bit and brace, but better results are obtained if the holes are
+bored in the lathe. A drill chuck fitted to the live spindle and a
+drilling pad for the tail stock spindle will be required to do this job
+efficiently. The tail stock is locked fast and the wheel to be drilled
+is placed against the drilling pad and fed up to the revolving bit by
+turning the tail spindle feed wheel. This method will produce a cleaner
+hole and one that is square with the wheel face.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+OPERATION OF WOODWORKING MACHINES
+
+
+#54. Importance of Machine Operations.#--A fair understanding of what is
+the correct position to take at some of the principal machines such as
+the lathe, universal saw, jointer, and sander, is very important to the
+student in the wood-working department. Such knowledge is of special
+importance to the one engaged in toy making, where every knowledge of
+use of machines, is put to the test.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29. The roughing cut]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30. The sizing cut]
+
+Sufficient examples are given to enable the student to arrive at a fair
+understanding of the correct postures.
+
+#55. Operating the Lathe.#--The lathe is perhaps one of the most
+important machines used in toy making. It lends itself to unlimited
+varieties of work and for that reason is really indispensible in the
+shop.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31. The paring cut]
+
+In Fig. 29 the student is preparing to take the _roughing cut_ in
+turning a cylinder. This operation consists of removing the corners of
+the square piece and is done with the tool known as the _gouge_.
+
+After the roughing cut has been taken, calipers set to the diameter
+desired will determine the depth of the next cut, _sizing cut_. The
+illustration in Fig. 30 shows the student performing this operation with
+the _cut-off tool_.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32. Using the cut-off tool]
+
+When the correct dimension has been found, the next step in the process
+of turning a cylinder is the _paring cut_ or finishing cut, Fig. 31.
+This is done with the _skew_ or _bevel chisel_. A very thin shaving is
+removed by this operation.
+
+The ends are then cut by using the cut-off tool as shown in Fig. 32. It
+is merely taking a slice off the end. If a very thin slice is to be
+removed, it is usually made by the long point of the skew chisel. If it
+is more than a quarter of an inch it should be _sized_ and then removed
+by the skew.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33. Making convex surfaces]
+
+If it is desired to round the end of a piece or to produce a convex
+surface the operation can be done by applying the broad side of the skew
+chisel, as in Fig. 33.
+
+#56. Face Plate Turning.#--The preceding paragraphs describe the process
+of turning when the piece is supported between the live and the dead
+centers. The processes shown in Figs. 24, 25 and 26, illustrate the
+character of the work done with the head stock only when the piece is
+supported by the screw-center chuck or face plate.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34. Polishing wood in lathe]
+
+The first step in face plate turning is the scraping cut, Fig. 24. This
+cut is properly made with the concave chisel held in such a position as
+to give a light scraping cut. Care should be exercised not to allow the
+chisel to extend too deeply, otherwise the material will chip with the
+grain. After the desired circumference has been obtained the surface
+should be smoothed with the skew chisel.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35. Cutting off stock]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 36. Fluting on circular saw]
+
+Fig. 25 shows the student modeling a rosette, using the rest, set at
+right angles with the bed or parallel with the face plate. Prior to the
+modeling a shearing cut should be taken with the skew chisel to face
+off the material to an even surface.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37. Cutting with special fence]
+
+The illustration in Fig. 26 shows the use of the dividers. The student
+is marking off to a uniform scale the position of the various
+corrugations in the rosette he is turning.
+
+#57. The Universal Saw.#--The operations that can be performed on the
+universal saw are so many that no attempt will be made to illustrate
+them all here. But enough are given to show the characteristic
+operations involved in cross-cutting, ripping, and dadoing,--the three
+basic uses of a circular saw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 38. Grooving, or ripping special work]
+
+It is a more dangerous tool than the lathe and the guard should be kept
+over the saw at all times, except of course, in dadoing when it can not
+be used.
+
+Figs. 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, illustrate the basic uses of a circular saw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 39. Cutting segments]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 40. Surfacing board on jointer]
+
+#58. The Hand Jointer.#--The great variety of work that can be done on a
+hand jointer depends very largely upon the knowledge and skill of the
+operator. It lends itself to so many operations, that the student gains
+much in knowledge and efficiency.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 41. Cutting bevels on jointer]
+
+The five operations shown in Figs. 40, 41, 42, 43 and 44, give a fair
+idea of the scope of work that is usually accomplished on a hand jointer
+and show something of the method by which the work should be done.
+
+The jointer is another tool where the use of the guard should never be
+omitted.
+
+#59. The Sander.#--The sander is an interesting machine in the school
+shop for on it considerable "forming" can be done as with the lathe,
+altho its prime use is to make smooth or polish.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 42. Jointing the edge]
+
+In Fig. 45 the boy at the left is forming a mitre while the one on the
+right is smoothing surface.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 43. Rabetting on the jointer]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 44. Cutting miter joints]
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 45. The machine sander in operation]
+
+
+
+
+PART II.
+
+DRAWINGS FOR TOYS
+
+
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 1
+ _FOX and GEESE GAME_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 2
+ _RING TOSS_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 3
+ _BABY'S CART_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 4
+ _HAY CART_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 5
+ _Horse Head_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 6
+ _HORSE ON WHEELS
+ For Milk Wagon_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 7
+ _KIDO KAR TRAILER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 8
+ _AUTO ROADSTER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 9
+ _AUTO RACER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 10
+ _PASSENGER CAR_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 11
+ _MILK WAGON_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 12
+ _TABLE_
+ _Toy Furniture For Doll House_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 13
+ _CHAIR and ROCKER_
+ _Toy Furniture For Doll House_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 14
+ _BUFFET_
+ _Toy Furniture For Doll House_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 15
+ _TOY WHEEL-BARROW_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 16
+ _HORSE BARROW_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 17
+ _DOLL'S CARRIAGE_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 18
+ _NOAH'S ARK_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 19
+ _"BEAN BAG" GAME BOARD_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 20
+ _CHILD'S SWING_ #1]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 21
+ _CHILD'S SWING_ #2]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 22
+ _DOLL'S BED_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 23
+ _DOLL'S BED_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 24
+ _ADJUSTABLE STILTS_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 25
+ _SCOOTER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 26
+ _STEERING COASTER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 27
+ _KIDO KAR & DETAILS_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 28
+ _KID KAR JUNIOR_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 29
+ _PONY KAR_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 30
+ _DUPLEX SPEEDSTER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 31
+ _ROCK-A-DOODLE_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 32
+ _SLED_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 33
+ _"Sturdy Flyer" Sled_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 34
+ _DUCKY LOO_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 35
+ _DUCK ROCKER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 36
+ _JITNEY_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 37
+ _JUNIOR ROADSTER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 38
+ _Details of JUNIOR ROADSTER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 39
+ _SENIOR COASTER & DETAILS_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 40
+ _DETAILS OF SENIOR COASTER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 41
+ _AUTO-KAR_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 42
+ _MOTO-KAR_
+ _CHOO-CHOO-KAR_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 43
+ _Teetter-Totter_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 44
+ _TEETER ROCKER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 45
+ _CHECKER BOARD_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 46
+ _CHILD'S COSTUMER_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 47
+ _BABY'S CHAIR_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 48
+ _CHILDREN'S SAND BOX_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 49
+ _SAND BOX #2_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 50
+ _DOLL'S HOUSE-#1_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 51
+ _DOLL'S HOUSE-#2_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 52
+ _DOLL'S HOUSE-#2_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 53
+ _DUMB BELL_
+ _INDIAN CLUB_]
+
+
+ [Illustration: PLATE 54
+ _BATS_]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+A
+
+ Auto kar, Plate 41, 104
+
+ Auto racer, Plate 9, 72
+
+ Auto Roadster, Plate 8, 71
+
+
+B
+
+ Bats, base ball, Plate 54, 117
+
+ Bazaars, toy sales, etc., 19
+
+ Bed, doll's, Plates 22, 23, 85, 86
+
+ Boring holes in wheels, 53
+
+ Brushes, care of, 31
+
+ Buffet, Plate 14, 77
+
+
+C
+
+ Car, baby's, Plate 36, 99
+
+ Car, passenger, Plate 10, 73
+
+ Cars, auto, motor, choo-choo, Plates 41, 42, 104, 105
+
+ Cart, baby's, Plate 3, 66
+
+ Cart, hay, Plate 4, 67
+
+ Carriage, dolls, Plate 17, 80
+
+ Chair & rocker, Plate 13, 76
+
+ Chair, baby's, Plate 47, 110
+
+ Checker board, Plate 45, 108
+
+ Check, credit, Fig. 7, 20
+
+ Coasters, Plates 26, 37, 39, 89, 101, 103
+
+ Coloring toys, 21
+ Sanitation emphasized, 21
+ Preparation of surfaces, 21
+ Application of water colors, 21
+ Analine water stains, 22
+ Formulas for analine water stains, 22
+ Oil stains, 23
+ Shellacking, 23
+ Varnishing, 23
+ Points on varnishing, 24
+ Color varnish, 24
+ Use of paint, 24
+ Dipping method, 28, 30
+ Polishing by tumbling, 31
+ Paint application by compressed air, 31
+
+ Colors, preparing, 39
+
+ Color chart, Fig. 17, 41
+
+ Contents, Table of, 5
+
+ Coping saw, use of, 45
+
+ Correlation, 7
+
+ Costumer, child's, Plate 46, 109
+
+
+D
+
+ Doll's house, Plates 50, 51, 52, 113, 114, 115
+
+ Dipping frame, 29
+
+ Drawings for toys, 63
+
+ Dumb bell, Plate 53, 116
+
+
+E
+
+ Enameling, 27
+
+
+F
+
+ Foremen, shop, 11
+
+ Fox & geese game, Plate 1, 64
+
+ Furniture, doll, 75, 76, 77
+
+
+G
+
+ Game board, "Bean Bag," Plate 19, 82
+
+ Game board, "Fox & Geese," Plate 1, 64
+
+ Grading students, 17
+
+
+H
+
+ Horse head, Plate 5, 68
+
+ Horse on wheels, Plate 6, 69
+
+ House, doll's, Plates 50, 51, 52, 113, 114, 115
+
+
+I
+
+ Indian club, Plate 53, 116
+
+
+J
+
+ Jigs & fixtures, 43
+
+ Jointer, hand, 59
+
+
+K
+
+ Kiddie kars, Plates 27, 28, 29, 90, 91, 92
+
+
+L
+
+ Lathe, operating the, 54, 55, 56, 57
+
+
+M
+
+ Machines, operating of woodworking, 54
+
+
+N
+
+ Noah's ark, Plate 18, 81
+
+
+O
+
+ Organization, plan for shop, 11
+
+
+P
+
+ Paint, use of, 24
+ Ingredients of, 24
+ Application, 25
+ Preparation of surface, 25
+ Tinting materials, 25
+ Mixing, 25
+ Formulas, 26
+ Formulas for tinted paint, 26
+ Enameling, 27
+
+ Plan for shop organization, 11
+ Grouping students, 11
+ Time clerk, 13
+ Tool-room clerk, 13
+ Recording attendance, 14
+ Time-card rack, 14
+ Time cards, 15
+ Grading students, 17
+ Accomplishment sheet, 18
+ Preparation for shop work, 19
+
+ Pneumatic equipment, 36
+
+ Preface, 3
+
+ Productive work, 11
+
+
+R
+
+ Ring toss, Plate 2, 65
+
+ Rocking chair, Plate 13, 76
+
+ Rocker, duck, Plate 35, 98
+
+ Rocker, ducky loo, Plate 34, 97
+
+ Rock-a-doodle, Plate 31, 94
+
+
+S
+
+ Sand box, Plates 48, 49, 111, 112
+
+ Sander, 60, 62
+
+ Saw, universal, 58
+
+ Scooter, Plate 25, 88
+
+ Sleds, Plates 32, 33, 95, 96
+
+ Sprayer, pneumatic air, 31, 33, 34
+
+ Sprayer, directions for operating, 36
+
+ Speedster, duplex, Plate 30, 93
+
+ Stain, oil, 23
+
+ Stain, analine water, 22
+
+ Stilts, adjustable, Plate 24, 87
+
+ Suggestions to teachers, 7
+
+ Swing, child's, Plates 20, 21, 83, 84
+
+
+T
+
+ Table for doll house, Plate 12, 75
+
+ Teeter-totter, Plate 43, 106
+
+ Teeter-rocker, Plate 44, 107
+
+ Time clerk, 13
+
+ Time cards, 15
+
+ Tool-room clerk, 13
+
+ Toy sales, 19
+
+ Trailer, kido-kar, Plate 7, 70
+
+ Tumbler, drawing of, 32
+
+ Tumbling, polishing by, 31, 32
+
+
+V
+
+ Varnishing, 23
+
+ Varnish, colored, 24
+
+ Varnishing, points on, 24
+
+
+W
+
+ Wagon, milk, Plate 11, 74
+
+ Water colors, 21
+
+ Wax polishing, 31
+
+ Wheel-barrow, toy, Plate 15, 78
+
+ Wheel-barrow, horse design, Plate 16, 79
+
+ Wheel cutter, 45, 46
+
+ Wheels, cutting small, 43
+
+ Wheels, designs, Fig. 27, 49, 51
+
+ Wheels, turning, 43
+
+ Woods used in toy making, 42
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVANCED TOY MAKING FOR SCHOOLS***
+
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