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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Blanco y Colorado, by William C. Tetley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Blanco y Colorado
+       Old Days among the Gauchos of Uruguay
+
+Author: William C. Tetley
+
+Release Date: June 26, 2011 [EBook #36534]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLANCO Y COLORADO ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Barbara Kosker, Adrian Mastronardi and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+(This file was produced from images generously made
+available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  BLANCO Y COLORADO
+
+
+
+
+  BLANCO Y COLORADO
+
+  OLD DAYS AMONG THE
+  GA[~U]CHOS OF URUGUAY
+
+
+
+
+  BY
+
+  WILLIAM C. TETLEY
+
+
+
+
+  F. R. HOCKLIFFE
+  86 & 88, HIGH STREET, BEDFORD
+
+  LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL,
+  HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD.
+
+  1921
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+The following pages contain the writer's personal experiences in the
+"Republic of Uruguay" during a revolution in what are now known as the
+"Old Days."
+
+If they enable the reader to understand what life in that country really
+meant at that time, the object of this book will then be attained.
+
+  W. C. T.
+
+  The Close, Wavendon,
+  Woburn Sands,
+  Bucks.
+
+  July, 1919.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                           PAGE
+
+  PART   I. LAS SIERRAS DE MAL ABRIGO         9
+
+  PART  II. EL CERRO DEL PICHINANGO          68
+
+  PART III. LA ESTANCIA ESPERANZA           169
+
+
+
+
+BLANCO Y COLORADO.
+
+
+
+
+PART I.
+
+LAS SIERRAS DE MAL ABRIGO.
+
+
+The clock of the "Cathedral de la Matrix" was striking ten on a lovely
+morning in October, when our signal gun was fired, and the anchor of the
+S.S. "Copernicus" let go to find bottom in the muddy waters of
+La Plata.
+
+On the right the town of Monte Video, with its whitewashed "azotea," or
+flat-roofed houses, glistened in the bright sunshine; to the left the
+broad estuary stretched away towards the open sea; while in front of us
+the famous Cerro, a gently sloping hill, looked green and fresh and
+pleasant after our long sea voyage. The tug which brought off the
+Medical Officer of Health did not delay long before coming alongside,
+when permission was given to the passengers to land, and I soon found
+myself standing with my baggage on the Custom House wharf, and having
+duly passed it, made my way to the "Hotel Oriental."
+
+Here I enquired when a diligence would leave for the interior, which
+would take me within reasonable distance of my friend's estancia, whom I
+had come out to visit, which I believed to be situate about thirty-three
+leagues, or one hundred miles, up country. I was informed that it was to
+leave the next morning, but that, as it started from a "fonda," or inn,
+outside the town at 5 a.m., it would be necessary to sleep there,
+otherwise I should certainly miss it. At this time the diligence was
+the only public conveyance traversing the country, a railway being as
+yet unthought of. So I ordered some dinner at the "Hotel Oriental," and
+occupied the interval by having a look round the city. I was much
+pleased with the straight, wide streets, running at right angles, by the
+size and importance of the public buildings, and by many of the private
+houses, often opening on to a "plaza," or square, prettily planted with
+trees and flowering shrubs. But I was most impressed by the variety and
+beauty of the excellent shops, which I could hardly have expected to
+find in a South American town at that time, so remote from Europe. I
+also saw more than one of the famous "quintas," or villas, with large
+grounds, where semi-tropical flowers can be seen in all their beauty,
+and palms and magnolias everywhere flourish.
+
+I arrived at the inn whence the diligence started at 9 p.m. The
+proprietor received me with courtesy, and shewed me my bedroom, which
+was small and not very clean; but it had a window opening on the street,
+so I could get plenty of air. Some natives were making a noise in the
+bar below, where they had doubtless been drinking, and seemed inclined
+to quarrel. I gave instructions to be called, and the last thing I heard
+as I dropped off to sleep was the cry of the "sereno," or
+night-watchman, whose business it was, during the night, to call the
+time and state of the weather every half hour. A loud rapping at my door
+awoke me in time to look up my baggage and drink some hot coffee, before
+a start was made. Dawn was fast breaking in the East as five horses and
+three mules were being harnessed up, four abreast, to the old wooden
+diligence, which carried the mails and baggage piled on its top, the
+passengers sitting facing each other on hard wooden seats inside. In
+front, beneath a wooden shelter, sat the driver, with room for one
+passenger beside him. The diligence was heavily built, with large broad
+wooden wheels, and there were no springs. In front rode a native on
+horseback, with his lasso made fast to the leading horses, so that he
+was able to guide the course of the diligence. His was an office of
+importance, and he was called the "quartia dor." The team was evidently
+well accustomed to the streets, so we rumbled heavily along, passed
+suburb and quinta, until houses became less frequent, and by the end of
+the first stage had ceased to appear; and we then saw before us the
+rolling plains of Uruguay. A word as to my fellow-passengers. Four were
+apparently business men, probably buyers of produce, one of whom spoke
+French, and kindly gave me information as we went along. The fifth was
+an officer, in a lieutenant's uniform. Reaching the end of our first
+stage, we found another team shut up in a yard, waiting. This time they
+were all horses, diverse in colour, wilder, and more spirited than the
+others. But they were soon harnessed up, and we quickly got under weigh,
+the driver now increasing our speed. As we descended a decline we went
+mostly at full gallop, to get across the mud in the stream at the
+bottom, and so have a good impetus for the rise on the other side, the
+old diligence, which had seen much service, swaying and rolling like a
+ship in a sea-way. By eleven o'clock we reached Santa Lucia, then only a
+village, with one so-called hotel, and a straggling street of native
+huts. Here we waited for an hour for breakfast: meat, boiled and roast,
+with vegetables; bread, cheese, and coffee, which we much appreciated.
+Then, with four new passengers and a fresh team of horses, we made a
+start for the town of San Jose, where we were to stop for the night. As
+we proceeded, the country opened out before us on every side, the
+rolling plain, with here and there a clump of trees to mark some native
+estancia, where a flock of sheep, and also cattle, could be seen feeding
+in absolute freedom, for there were no fences or divisions of any kind,
+neither was there anything in the way of cultivation. Occasionally a
+native came into view, galloping after a troop of horses, his poncho
+fluttering in the wind, and then, as he passed over a roll of the plain,
+like some phantom, would seem to disappear. The afternoon was drawing to
+a close when we saw far in front of us the golden rays of the now
+fast-declining sun reflected on the cupola of the large church, flanking
+the principal square of the country town of San Jose. Gradually the
+houses rise up on the horizon, and half an hour later we drive up with
+the usual flourish in front of the "Hotel Oriental." It was apparently
+an old house, situate in the main street. We dined in a long low room,
+with the addition of soup and a sweet, much as we had breakfasted.
+Within its walls more than one murder had been planned, and many a
+political "cabale" concocted; indeed, I was told that at the very table
+where I sat an officer was dining with some boon companions. When
+sipping their coffee he turned to them and said, "Tengo rabia voy a
+matar un Gringo," "I feel in a rage, I am going to kill a foreigner." He
+went straight out, and turning up the street, met an Italian stonemason
+returning home from work. He pierced him through with his sword, and,
+walking off to where he had left his horse, mounted, and rode away. The
+poor man died, but the matter was hushed up, and nothing more was heard
+about it. I soon went to bed, feeling tired, and my limbs ached from the
+bumping and confinement of the diligence for so many hours.
+
+In the morning we started early. The sun was just rising above the
+horizon as we left the outskirts of San Jose, and made for the open
+plain, unbroken, save by the dull grey line which alone seemed to mark
+the "camino real," or Government road. At eleven o'clock we stopped at a
+pulperia, or store, for some breakfast, and for fresh horses, which were
+ready waiting for us. They were a wilder lot this time, and a chestnut
+and a piebald especially gave trouble, at first refusing to be
+harnessed. Once started, however, they had nothing for it but to settle
+down, aided by a free application of the driver's whip. Just before two
+o'clock we reached Guaycoru, where my journey by diligence ended; this
+being the nearest point to my friend's estancia. Gathering together my
+saddle, bridle and light baggage, I entered the pulperia, or store, to
+enquire in what direction my friend's estancia lay, and how far off it
+was. The pulpero, or storekeeper, fortunately could speak a little
+French, which was a great help. He was very polite, pointed out the
+direction, saying it was only between five and six miles distant, and
+was situate at the far end of some rocky country which stretched out
+before us. He offered to supply me with a couple of horses, one for
+myself and another for my baggage, and to send a rather
+ruffianly-looking mulatto, half Spanish and half negro, his face badly
+pitted with small pox, to act as guide, and also to bring back the
+horses. He soon appeared with a bay, a grey, and a piebald, and I at
+once occupied myself fitting my saddle and bridle on the former, and not
+apparently to his satisfaction. The headstall of the bridle was too
+long, the girths of the saddle too short; but at last I got them to
+meet, and, slinging my belongings over the back of the piebald and
+mounting his grey, my attendant made a start, and I followed a few paces
+behind. Our departure being watched with great interest by the pulpero
+and his family. We had not gone far when we got in among the rocks, or
+"sierras," as they were called, lying in long large masses, not very
+high except in places; although, often rising well above one's head as
+you rode along through the breaks between. Owing to the shelter thus
+afforded, this district was noted as being the resort of robbers. The
+lay of the land favoured these gentlemen, as they could easily hide both
+their horses and themselves among the rocks during the day, and then go
+out with the moon at night to kill a young cow, or steal a horse, as
+their fancy took them. They were not a pleasant lot to have to do with,
+and I could see that my not understanding Spanish alone prevented my
+dark-skinned guide from duly expatiating upon the dangers of the road.
+Meanwhile, the sun was declining, and there was no wind. You could
+hardly hear a sound, and a weird creepy kind of feeling came over me as
+we entered a passage between two large rocks, higher and steeper than
+hitherto, which seemed to twist and turn so that I could not help
+wondering when and where we were going to come out. Every now and then
+we came across a few cattle, which made off hurriedly as we approached,
+and when we happened to see a horse or two they instantly got out of
+sight round some turn of the rocks, evidently well-known to them, but
+which seemed to me an all but impossible path. And so we kept jogging
+along, until the rocks got smaller and fewer, and at length we came out
+into a piece of open country, where a large flock of sheep were quietly
+grazing, their faces apparently set, as their custom is at eventide,
+towards home. About half a mile in front of us was the estancia whither
+we were bound, quiet and peaceful as I first saw it in the rays of the
+now setting sun. An azotea, or flat-roofed house, whitewashed outside;
+near it two large "ombus," a tree much valued for its shade; to the left
+three or four "ranchos," or huts, the walls of mud, the roofs of a reed
+called "paja"; on one side a yard for sheep, and on the other a large
+corral, in which to shut in horses and cattle; it did not look
+imposing, but I saw it all with interest as being for me a resting
+place, and with pleasure, for I had now reached the end of my long
+journey. My friend, Robert Royd, saw me riding up, and came out to
+welcome me. He had a fall from his horse, and sprained his knee, so was
+prevented coming in to Monte Video to meet me, as he had hoped to do. I
+was glad to see him again. I had known him in England when life held out
+a different prospect for him, and we had neither of us heard of Uruguay.
+How he came to be located at Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo he could hardly
+have told you himself. He went out for a voyage to Monte Video, took a
+fancy to the country and its climate, and to the open-air life, made up
+his mind to set up as an estanciero in a small way, and here he was. I
+had now to make the acquaintance of another person, Mr. Henry Marsh,
+called by the natives Henriquez. He had exchanged life in a merchant's
+office in London for a similar position in Mexico, where he had met with
+misfortune. He had drifted down the coast, first to Pernambuco, and
+afterwards to Monte Video, where he at length found himself without
+money or friends. Royd happened to come across him, and taking a fancy
+to him, brought him up country to look after a flock of sheep. He was a
+pleasant little man, a regular cockney through and through. He became
+somewhat plaintive whenever he talked of the past, and was apt to be
+nervous and over-anxious; but he was willing and obliging, and always
+glad to help in any way he could. He professed to understand and rather
+to like Spaniards, but he was really in mortal fear of a native, and he
+never went out far without a large revolver, and also a big knife stuck
+in his belt behind, neither of which formidable weapons would he have
+been at all willing to use. When I arrived, a Frenchman, whom we called
+Pedro, was acting as cook. He was not at all fond of soap and water, nor
+did he take much pride in the culinary art, for he apparently gave us an
+endless succession of mutton chops. But however early you wanted to make
+a start in the morning, he was always ready with hot coffee, and would
+get you some food at almost any hour of the day. So as our movements
+were often erratic, there were compensations. A native "peon," or
+servant, and a boy to get up horses, completed the establishment. As
+regards the stock, there were the flock of sheep before mentioned, about
+nine hundred in number, and another larger one of about fifteen hundred,
+towards the other end of the estancia, at a "puesto," as it was called
+in the direction, but to the West of the pulperia of Guaycoru, where I
+had first arrived in the diligence. The country was open there, being
+outside the "sierras," and a young Englishman called Charles Bent had
+arranged to take charge of this flock not long before I came upon the
+scene. He was a nice young fellow, with fair hair and blue eyes. He had
+a quick temper, but a kind heart. Having learnt farming in England in
+the usual kind of way, he came out to Uruguay. He had some capital,
+which he invested in sheep, and renting land up towards the Rio Negro,
+started on his own account. But he was without South American
+experience, and he had also bad luck: many of his sheep were stolen,
+others died of disease, and after about three years his money had
+vanished, and he was compelled, like others, to earn his living; so he
+took to the usual occupation of looking after a flock of sheep. He was
+always tidy and neat in appearance, and had a nice sheep dog, called
+"Bob," which he had brought with him from England, then little more than
+a puppy, of which he was very fond. There were seven hundred head of
+cattle on the place, which fed in a semi-wild state among the rocks, on
+a stretch of country some three and a half miles long, and half to
+three-quarters of a mile broad, known as the estancia; as also did a
+troop of mares and colts, mostly pretty wild. These latter were often
+difficult to come across, and to run them up into the stone enclosure,
+or "manga," near the house was no easy matter. We had seventeen riding
+horses of varied quality, mostly brought up into the wooden corral near
+the house every morning, so that we might each catch up a horse for the
+needs of the day. The cattle were very apt to stray outside the boundary
+of the estancia, and so get mixed up with those belonging to neighbours,
+often causing annoyance. This was much more the case on the Eastern than
+on the Western boundary, which was fortunate, as the natives living on
+that side were not only more friendly, but had better places themselves,
+and were therefore able to give us more help in keeping the cattle
+apart. On the Western side the rocks became ever a greater feature of
+the landscape, with but little open land between, thus forming a
+suitable resort for "matreros," _i.e._, people in hiding, of doubtful
+reputation, with no character whatever to lose. Here was where we had
+reason to apprehend trouble, should a revolution break out. We each took
+a turn to "repuntar," or drive in the cattle, which fed together in
+groups, and the same thing took place with the mares and colts. They
+also had to be continually turned inwards, and gathered up every now and
+again into the "manga," or stone enclosure to be looked over. When you
+had been some time at this work, it was wonderful how keen your eyesight
+became, and how it adapted itself to your needs. For instance, you could
+make out cattle and horses at a distance, when the ordinary observer
+would hardly know they were animals at all. Moreover, your eye became
+accustomed to tell you whether they were your own or your neighbour's,
+by their manner of feeding when grouped, their apparent number, and
+their behaviour when disturbed. Early morning and late afternoon was the
+time for this work, especially in warm weather, as both horses and
+cattle were glad to take advantage of the shelter of the high rocks
+during the heat of the day. We had three dogs, which helped us greatly,
+as they yelped and barked and chased the cattle to their heart's
+content. I rather took to this work; there was a kind of excitement
+about it, as you never quite knew whom you were likely to come across,
+or what was likely to happen before you got home. At evening, too, if
+you chanced to be late, there was a certain weirdness about it all: the
+huge masses of rock casting their grey shadows as the sun fell towards
+the horizon, and then when it had fully set, a great silence seemed to
+fall upon everything. Scarcely a sound could be heard in any direction.
+The "pteru-pteru," or wild plover, ceased his shrill cry, and both bird
+and beast, active during daylight, quietly sought their rest. Not so,
+however, those of the night, for when the short twilight was over, and
+darkness had fairly set in you could hear strange sounds and noises, as
+if something or other was at work, never seen nor heard during the day,
+and the short bark of the wild fox would sound out sharp and clear as he
+sallied forth in search of his prey. Then, indeed, you feel truly glad
+when the welcome light of the estancia house tells you that you are
+nearly home. Your horse, too, knows that he is near, that his work for
+that day at any rate, is done, and he looks joyfully forward to joining
+his companions, and to a peaceful time till morning. It was usual, once
+a week, to gather up all the cattle together upon a spot selected for
+that purpose, where a high post is fixed in the ground, around which
+when collected the cattle revolve. Upon such an occasion, those who had
+furthest to go were on horseback soon after dawn, each taking an
+appointed route, and as he returned driving the cattle in front of him.
+On this estancia there were special difficulties to contend with, as the
+high masses of rock enabled here and there a point of cattle to break
+back unseen, or if you did see them, probably it was at a place where it
+was difficult to follow them. But the horses were truly wonderful, as
+they carried you at a gallop over the rocky and uneven ground. They
+seldom made a mistake; bred among the sierras, they were quite at home
+there, and you soon learnt to give them their head, and to trust that
+all would be well. With us this weekly gathering together of the cattle
+never seemed entirely satisfactory. They never came up together all at
+one time. One portion or another seemed always to be missing. The long,
+narrow position of the estancia, and its rough and rocky character
+probably accounted for this. Moreover, we were always short-handed, and
+we could not keep any consecutive line as is done in more open country.
+This was therefore a day of disappointment, and we could not help
+fearing some of the cattle had been stolen; certainly we did not know
+where to find them. Royd took this a good deal to heart, for when he
+bought the herd this trouble had not been anticipated. The fact was the
+cattle had got rather out of hand, and we also feared animals were being
+killed on the camp, by "matreros," or fugitive soldiers, of whose
+existence in the district we were at the time unaware, but who
+afterwards proved themselves dangerous neighbours. Our sheep never
+seemed to suffer; on the contrary, they did well; nor was Charles Bent
+troubled in any way. For this we were thankful, and kept up our spirits
+accordingly. As to the troop of mares and colts, they had things pretty
+much their own way. They could gallop like the wind, and go faster over
+the rough ground than we could, and we were obliged to try and run them
+up to the manga, or stone enclosure, just as we happened most easily to
+come across them. The summer, with its long hot afternoons, was now
+passing, and the early autumn, perhaps the most pleasant time of the
+southern year, was close upon us. As the weather got cooler, I was
+continually out among the sierras looking after cattle, and I almost
+always went alone. I had happened to fasten over a black bowler hat a
+white "pugaree," with its ends hanging down behind to protect the back
+of my neck from the sun, and late one afternoon when following a path
+among the rocks with which I was well acquainted, my horse took a wrong
+turn. In a few moments, passing from beneath the shadow of a large grey
+rock to my right, I suddenly found myself in a small open space, about
+one hundred yards long by thirty wide, where the grass grew green and
+long, and a tiny stream trickled; quite an oasis in a small way. Here,
+seated on the ground, their horses saddled and feeding near them, were
+five men, apparently soldiers, for each had a broad red band round his
+black felt hat, and a lance stuck in the ground, from which hung the red
+banner. A fire was already lighted, over which was a large roast, part
+of a young cow they had lately killed. A kettle was almost on the boil,
+and they were evidently about to enjoy a meal. Their "arms" and
+"ponchos" were piled in a heap, but each held either a knife or a short
+dagger in his hand, and I noticed that two at least carried revolvers in
+their belts. They were a rough-looking lot, as much surprised to see me
+as I was to see them. For the moment I hardly knew what best to do. I
+was quite unarmed, but did not wish to appear nervous or frightened; nor
+could I make a satisfactory retreat. So I sat on my horse, perfectly
+still, and then they all got up and surrounded me, gesticulating
+violently, and pointing to the white covering of my hat, which seemed to
+be the cause of the annoyance. My feigned composure somewhat calmed
+their excitement. They told me to hand over my hat and, placing it on a
+point of rock about fifteen paces distant, succeeded in putting a bullet
+through it with a revolver, to their great amusement and satisfaction.
+Meanwhile those who were not shooting tried to frighten me; making signs
+with their knives that it was all over with me, but seeing I was an
+Englishman they fortunately had no real motive to hurt me; had they
+wished to do so, I was completely at their mercy. Being "colorados,"
+soldiers belonging to the Red Party, they chose to assume that the white
+covering on my hat was a Blanco device; but of course, they knew this
+was not so. Finally, they allowed me to depart unharmed, returning to me
+my hat, minus its white covering which they tore in pieces, but still
+with the bullet hole in it as a proof of what happened. The matter was
+not much in itself, but it shewed that mischief was brewing, and that it
+was becoming unsafe to ride about in the rocks alone, more especially if
+unarmed. From that day forth I also started a revolver, to the proper
+loading of which I saw carefully before going any distance away. When I
+got home and related what happened, it did not tend to reassure poor
+Royd, who was rather in low spirits about things in general. He had
+moreover heard that afternoon from a passing traveller there was a
+rumour a revolution had actually broken out. However, a week passed, and
+we heard no more of it, so we followed our usual occupations, leaving
+matters to declare themselves. A few days later, when running up a point
+of mares, we managed to include three colts which hitherto had always
+eluded us. They were all chestnuts, very wild, very fast, with long
+flowing manes and tails. Two of them had a broad white blaze, each with
+two white hind feet. The third was larger than the others, with long,
+sloping quarters; rather a light chestnut, with a white star on his
+forehead and nothing more. He had good shoulders and a smooth easy way
+of slipping along which greatly took my fancy. So I bought him for a
+nominal sum and handed him over to a decent little native named Severo
+to break in for me. When he returned the horse to me I found he quite
+justified my expectations, and although still a bit raw he was easy and
+pleasant to ride; and I called him _Carnival_. I also took rather an
+interest in Severo, who was a beautiful rider, with a good seat and
+light hands. He could speak a few words of English; where he had learned
+them I did not know, but he seemed anxious to be communicative, and to
+teach me a few words of Spanish when I went to see how my horse was
+getting on. He had lately married, and lived in a rancho, or native hut,
+only a short distance from our Southern boundary. When I arrived I was
+invited to sit down on their only chair, placed in the centre of the
+room, Severo himself sitting on a little wooden stool, while the bride
+served Mate, a liquid made by pouring boiling water on a couple of
+spoonfuls of "yerba," a kind of tea grown in Brazil; a favourite
+beverage among the Spaniards. The Mate is really the gourd in which the
+tea is served. You suck it into your mouth through a bombilla, or silver
+tube, which latter, if you are not careful, is apt to get so hot as
+often to burn your lips. This beverage and the offer of a cigarette is
+the orthodox form of native hospitality.
+
+One morning a party of soldiers showing Red colours galloped up
+unexpectedly and took Severo prisoner, with a view to making him serve
+in the Government forces. Remonstrance was in vain! He had to saddle up
+his best horse and to start at once. His poor young wife was in despair,
+and she rode up in tears to tell Royd of her trouble. It was useless to
+attempt to get him back, so we comforted her as best we could, with the
+hope that her husband would manage to make his escape at the first
+convenient opportunity. If he belonged to any political party it was to
+the "Blancos," with whom his wife's people had always been mixed up.
+This made the enforced separation a greater trial to both of them. It
+was fortunate for me that "Carnival" had already been returned to me, or
+he also would probably have fallen into their hands. That same afternoon
+a party of "Colorados" called at the estancia to take our "peon," or
+native servant, for a soldier, but he saw them coming in time, and got
+away among the rocks and hid himself before they arrived, so they were
+obliged to go away without him. It was evident the Reds were taking up
+men not only for the ordinary strengthening of the Government forces,
+but for some special purpose. This, and the persistent rumour we were
+constantly hearing of a revolution having broken out in the direction of
+the "Rio Negro," put us upon our guard, and we took such measures as we
+could to look sharply after our stock, more especially our horses, and
+to avoid being taken unawares. We also looked up our arms and
+ammunition, and considered what we could do for the best in case of any
+serious and sudden trouble. The position of Uruguay was at this time
+probably unique in the usual stormy history of a South American
+republic. Torn by faction and internal strife, peace alone seemed
+wanting to ensure its progress and prosperity. The many natural
+advantages, such as a good climate, abundant water, grassy plains, and
+the beautiful woods which bordered the rivers, rendered it especially
+suitable for pastoral purposes. Agriculture was as yet almost unknown,
+except in the immediate neighbourhood of the towns, and was then of the
+most primitive description. But the land itself was fertile in many
+districts, consisting of a rich black loam, where crops of wheat and
+maize would give excellent results, and an abundant yield could be
+anticipated in suitable situations from a virgin and not easily
+exhausted soil. The Flores war, which had lasted for three years, had
+ended in the temporary subjugation of the Blanco, or White Party, and
+the placing in power of a "Colorado," or Red government. This was not in
+sympathy with the majority of the people, more especially those engaged
+in pastoral pursuits, such as the raising of sheep and cattle, headed by
+the large native land owners, mostly "Blancos," and therefore bitterly
+opposed to the "Colorados," or "Reds." These latter often had a majority
+in and near the provincial towns, and especially in Monte Video, the
+capital. They were led by what may be termed professional politicians,
+their soldiers being partly made up of paid foreigners, forming fairly
+efficient infantry, together with a large number of natives, whom they
+pressed in their service when in power. Some of these, too, received
+payment, so long as their party possessed sufficient funds, while a
+great number got very little except their food and arms. Their bands of
+irregular horse comprised anyone and everyone who had nothing to do,
+together with what might be termed the scum of the townsmen, who had
+nothing whatever to lose; least of all their reputation. Moreover, there
+were certain families, Reds by tradition, whose heads occupied the
+government posts when the "Colorados" were in power, and whose minor
+members and hangers-on swarmed in the Public Offices. There were also
+certain "estancieros" throughout the country, especially up towards the
+Brazilian frontier, many of them influential and wealthy, whose politics
+had always been Red, and who were supporters of the "Colorado Party."
+But they were not nearly so united either in heart or sympathy as were
+the Blancos, nor did they cultivate the same enthusiasm. The Blancos
+included the descendants of most of the old Castilian families, who had
+been the original Spanish Colonists, and they possessed, therefore, a
+certain aristocratic element, if you could justly so term it, as being
+part of the inner life of the republic. Their importance and influence,
+and comparative wealth, accrued mainly from landed property and the
+countless herds of sheep and cattle which spread themselves far and
+wide, finding good and abundant pasturage on the rolling and
+grass-covered plains. While therefore the "Reds" were enabled to
+maintain themselves in power by means of an ample supply of money, so
+long as they could control the resources of the republic, popular
+sympathy in general was with the White Party; indeed, so great was the
+disaffection and discontent at this particular time, it needed but a
+spark, as it were, applied to gunpowder to set the whole country in a
+flame. It only required a real leader, who commanded the full confidence
+of the native population, to come upon the scene, and to raise high the
+standard of revolt, for the people to flock to his banner far and wide
+throughout the country. Thus, as it were in a moment, in a South
+American republic, is a revolution born and made. Nor can this be
+wondered at when you consider that intrigue and revolution is but a
+natural attribute of all populations of purely Spanish descent, and when
+you come to mingle an Indian and Italian and foreign element, and then
+try to purify the whole by an admixture of the unruly blood of Spain,
+the result means a state of general unrest, and a condition of affairs
+in which the seeds of revolution are for ever present. Another incentive
+is that during a revolution, horses are looked upon as munitions of war,
+and may be taken from their owners as required, to be returned and paid
+for as Providence may permit. Sheep and cattle, too, required for food,
+may be commandeered by armed troops as necessity requires, a nominal
+receipt for their value being usually given by the officer in charge,
+which in all probability will never be paid. All this naturally gives an
+opportunity to the less honest and self-respecting classes of the
+community to live a free, roving, careless kind of life at other
+people's expense. Although natives will tell you they hate the law of
+conscription which obliges them to serve for a time in the army, this is
+by no means always really true. Moreover, many of those who are poor are
+apt to look upon time of war as a means of relief from the necessity for
+honest toil, always distasteful to the Spaniard of South America. They,
+moreover, manage to console themselves fairly well for a temporary
+absence from their home, with a dim and ill-defined hope that if only
+they have good luck they may possibly come out of it all considerably
+better off than they went in. One afternoon, a "tropero," or buyer of
+cattle, rode up to the house to enquire if we had any fat bullocks to
+sell. He told us he was making up a large troop round about the
+neighbourhood to take in to Monte Video. Of course, he was full of news
+about the revolution, and he should not be surprised if war were to
+break out at any time. As he offered Royd fifteen dollars each for any
+bullocks which were fat, the latter thought it best to turn anything he
+could into cash. So it was arranged we should have a gathering together
+of the cattle on the following day, so as to allow the purchaser to part
+out what he wished, and he also arranged to stay the night with us. He
+was a pleasant man, well-dressed, and the silver fittings of his native
+saddle and bridle were quite magnificent. A little before dawn next
+morning found us all on the move. The cook had already got hot coffee.
+Our horses had been tied up the night before, and we saddled up just as
+day was breaking, and one after another slipped quietly away, each of
+us taking his appointed line in the general drive up of the herd. The
+tropero himself did not go, but his two young men lent a hand, we, of
+course, finding them horses. This morning things went better with us
+than usual, and twice when the wildest of the bullocks made a rush and
+tried to break back they were effectively stopped and disappointed.
+Altogether we had a very good "para rodeo," but few of our cattle
+apparently remaining behind. Next followed the parting out of the fat
+animals. A short distance away from the general herd, which kept
+revolving round a large post placed in the centre of the "rodeo," about
+a dozen tame animals were stationed, guarded by a couple of young
+natives. Each fat bullock, as it was selected by the "tropero," was then
+run out of the herd into this little group, the tropero and his head man
+commencing operations by running them out himself. It was all very
+neatly done. They rode quietly in among the cattle, which we kept
+rounded up on every side. Fixing their attention upon a fat bullock,
+they placed their horses close up to it, one on either side, and so ran
+it out with a sudden rush in the direction of the tame animals.
+Sometimes it refused to be so dealt with, and persistently broke back at
+all costs. Then the lasso was brought into play, and after it had been
+lassoed and bullied about it generally thought better of it and did what
+was required. For this particular work the rider must possess not only
+skill, but he must be well mounted. His horse must be fast and active on
+his legs; he must be intelligent, so as to enter thoroughly into the
+spirit of the work, and he must also have plenty of courage. At the same
+time he must exercise caution, and thoroughly know his business,
+otherwise either he or his rider, probably both, may get caught on the
+horns of the bullock and so come to serious grief. But it is wonderful
+to see how a good horse will himself enjoy it, and with what marvellous
+perfection and accuracy he will perform his part. The rider, too, must
+have good nerves, and above all a firm seat, and an accurate eye for
+judging distance. As a rule, however, if he is really well mounted, the
+more he trusts to his horse and the less he worries him the better.
+Meanwhile, to Royd's gratification, the tropero parted out fifty fat
+bullocks; quite a good parting for our comparatively small herd, but, as
+a matter of fact, our cattle did wonderfully well among the rocks if
+only they were left quiet. They had plenty of clear water, and the
+grasses which grew there were sweet and nourishing, while in summer time
+they greatly enjoyed both the shade and shelter. On the following day,
+Friday, I rode over to the pulperia, or store, at Guaycoru and, as
+several things were wanted, I took the boy with me, mounted on an old
+grey horse, across the saddle of which a pair of large saddle bags were
+slung, in which to carry them. We had not long arrived at the pulperia
+when a native rode up, mounted on a fine "oscuro," or _dark_ brown
+horse, with a long flowing mane and tail, his reins, breastplate, and
+stirrups all mounted in solid silver. He was a good-looking man,
+something over thirty years of age; a slight but firmly knit figure as
+he sat on his horse, with the easy, graceful seat of one born almost in
+the saddle. His wide black "bombachos," or loose trousers, tucked inside
+high boots, ornamented with silver spurs. The broad-brimmed felt hat,
+the long "facon," a two-edged dagger, stuck in his belt, and a white
+silk handkerchief tied loosely round his neck, all betokened the
+"Spanish caballero," the free, independent life of the horseman on the
+open plain. Quickly dismounting, he carelessly strolled into the
+"pulperia," with the usual "Buenos tardes Senores," "Good afternoon,
+gentlemen." But as he passed me I noticed that he was fully armed, and
+had also an alert watchful look about him, and the thought passed
+through my mind that here at any rate was no ordinary man. He talked a
+few moments to the pulpero, somewhat earnestly, and then came forward,
+raising his hat, and offered me a cigarette, remarking something about
+the heat of the afternoon. Soon after, I and the boy, having collected
+our purchases, mounted our horses to return. Just as we rode round the
+edge of the outbuildings a dark-skinned individual in somewhat tattered
+garments rose from a low seat where he had been sitting smoking, and
+came hurriedly forward. "Did you speak to the Senor with the 'oscuro,'"
+he asked. "Yes!" I replied, "what about him?" The mulatto smiled and
+showed his white teeth, and then said, almost in a whisper, "You do not
+know him! Mamerto Godez! Cuidado! (Beware)."
+
+One afternoon just about three o'clock, I was sitting in the dining room
+writing a letter. It was quite warm, and both door and windows stood
+wide open. Royd and Henriquez had gone off to a pulperia owned by a man
+called Saballa, on the other side of the River Rosario, to buy some
+necessaries. I heard the dogs barking, but paid no attention, when
+suddenly half a dozen soldiers with the white device round their hats,
+and carrying the white banner on their lances, rode up from behind the
+house and halted at the front door. I went out and stood right in front
+of them. One who seemed superior to the others accosted me in Spanish,
+and I understood him to say that war had broken out, and that their
+business was to take up men and horses. Pedro the cook, so soon as he
+saw them, had gone to hide among the rocks, fearing, I suppose, lest he
+should be taken off for a soldier, Frenchman though he was! However, I
+explained as well as my scanty knowledge of Spanish would permit exactly
+who were employed, and I also told him about our horses. The result of
+it all was that they rode off more or less satisfied, saying that as
+"Don Roberto" was away they would call about them another time. About
+five o'clock Royd and Henriquez returned, having obtained all they
+wanted, and also bringing news. A revolution had broken out far and wide
+throughout the country, and a Colonel Aparicio, who had distinguished
+himself in a previous war, when General Flores and the Colorados were
+victorious, had apparently taken temporary command of the Blanco forces,
+which were increasing enormously day by day. That evening we held a
+consultation as to how we could act for the best. Royd was naturally
+rather despondent, for the rocky nature of the estancia obviously
+increased our difficulty in protecting and guarding the stock, besides
+affording a safe refuge for thieves and bad characters of every kind.
+This was always a drawback in time of peace, and, of course, the danger
+would be infinitely greater in time of war. However, there seemed
+nothing for it but to await events, and meanwhile do our best to keep
+our cattle and horses together as well as we could. The flock of sheep
+near the house fed where the land was open, and Henriquez looked after
+them. Should he be away, then either I or the boy did so for him. The
+other flock up towards Guaycoru fed also in open country, and Charles
+Bent was careful and reliable, and could be trusted to look well after
+them. He seldom went away from his "puesto," or hut, where he lived
+alone, his sole companion being his sheep-dog, "Bob," which he had
+brought out with him, when little more than a puppy, from England. He
+had one or two neighbours on his further side, who were friendly, and he
+also was no great distance from the pulperia where I had first arrived
+in the diligence; so up to now he had not found it quite so lonely as
+might have been expected. The stone manga, where we could shut in
+horses, and also a fair number of cattle, was in a broken and bad
+condition, and Royd decided that he would get an Italian stonemason and
+his son, who lived not very far away, towards the Rosario, to come over
+and build up all the gaps and so put it in good order. Meanwhile, we had
+to get the stone from where it lay among the big rocks; no easy job! It
+then had to be put upon a wooden truck to which a pair of bullocks were
+yoked, who slowly conveyed it to the corral. Fortunately, for a few days
+the weather was fine and cool. We all took our share of this work, which
+was tedious and tiring. We got a good supply by the time the stonemason
+and his son arrived. The father was a thin, rather careworn-looking man,
+beyond middle age, with hair fast turning grey; the son, a wiry-looking
+youth of about sixteen, with black hair and a sallow complexion. With
+them came a sandy-yellow coloured dog, eleven months old, very thin and
+lanky-looking, but with muscular limbs, a long, straight back, a broad
+forehead, small ears, and a pair of very intelligent eyes. For some
+reason or other he took a fancy to me, and I saw he was well fed, for
+which he seemed very grateful. He had the look of a lurcher, and was, of
+course, a mongrel. He was the son's dog, from whom I bought him for a
+couple of dollars. He was called "Napoleon," and I never altered his
+name. We saw no more of the soldiers, so we contented ourselves with
+keeping a constant eye on the horses, leaving the cattle for the time
+being to look after themselves, nor did we attempt to gather them up to
+the "rodeo," while the stonemason and his son were with us. Having
+finished their work they bid us adieu, received payment, and with many
+thanks, took their departure. "Napoleon" did not evince the least desire
+to go back with them, for when they mounted their horses he came and lay
+down by me, showing no sorrow at his change of owners. Following on all
+this, I resumed my work of riding out among the rocks to look up the
+cattle again, and the dog seemed very glad to go with me. I had not been
+at this more than a couple of days when I thought I missed a point of
+animals I had always been accustomed to find feeding more or less in the
+same locality. I reported this to Royd, who had not been very well. I
+think he had overdone himself, when we were all so busy collecting the
+stone. He decided we should have a "para rodeo," or gathering together
+of the herd, so as to form a better idea whether any of our cattle had
+been stolen. So on Saturday morning we all sallied forth just after
+daybreak, our horses having been tied up the night before. The gathering
+up, however, was not a successful one, for although we did not let any
+we saw break back, when we got them upon the rodeo they certainly seemed
+fewer than usual. From the way they came up we hardly thought any had
+stayed behind among the rocks. The next day Royd and I took a turn round
+to visit our neighbours, to enquire if any of our cattle had been seen
+by them. They welcomed us in a friendly manner, and were all apparently
+anxious to talk about the war, and to relate all they had heard
+regarding it. But we could hear nothing about our missing cattle. All,
+therefore, we could do was to arrange for another gathering up within a
+week, and two of our neighbours kindly offered to help us. They arranged
+to meet us at the far end of the estancia, just after sunrise, and a
+couple of native boys came with them. However, when we got the herd
+collected on the "rodeo," they again seemed to be fewer than usual, so
+we shut part of them up in the stone manga, for it would not hold them
+all, and first counted those outside and then those inside, and we were
+sadly compelled to conclude that quite fifty animals were missing. Where
+to find them we did not know, and we could only hope they would turn up
+again at the next para-rodeo.
+
+A few days later, Henriquez started off early in the afternoon to
+Saballa's pulperia, with the large saddle-bags slung over his saddle to
+bring back his purchases. He returned just before sunset, and we at once
+saw by his manner that something unusual had happened. He told us the
+people at the pulperia were much upset because on the previous day a
+little over a mile away, down near the wood which bordered the river
+Rosario, a poor Italian musician had been found lying with his throat
+cut from ear to ear. Whoever had done the deed appeared to have tied a
+poor little monkey to the ankle of the dead man, and so to have left
+them by the side of his small barrel-organ, which was also much broken.
+The body was lying at the pulperia when Henriquez arrived, waiting
+permission for burial; and he also saw the monkey, which was being taken
+care of. It certainly shewed there were some very wicked people about,
+as from the footprints round the place where the body was found, it
+would seem that whoever did it was not alone. The Italian had been
+playing two nights before at the house of a native, where there had been
+a small dance, when several girls and young men were present, all of
+whom, however, were well-known. In the morning he had some coffee given
+to him, and left the house quite well, en route for the pulperia, and
+late that afternoon his body was found by a casual passer-by, who at
+once gave notice of what had happened. Poor Henriquez was greatly
+affected during the evening, and kept repeating over and over again,
+"Pobre Italiano" (poor Italian). "There he lay with his throat cut from
+ear to ear. Oh! it's 'orrid, 'orrid, 'orrid!" For in his distress the
+cockney accent became more pronounced than ever.
+
+When, however, he had somewhat recovered his composure, he told us the
+Whites were assembling in large force up towards Paysandu, and that many
+Blancos from our neighbourhood had already gone outside to join them.
+Meanwhile, the Reds were assembling in the province of San Jose, as also
+in the Department of Colonia, and he seemed to think at present we had
+more to fear from the Government forces so far as our horses and cattle
+were concerned than we had from the revolutionists. As "Carnival" was
+rather a good-looking horse, I caught him up most days, although I only
+rode him occasionally. I let him out to feed late in the afternoon, when
+so far as we knew all seemed to be quiet. Royd had an "ovaro," or
+piebald, he thought a lot of, and also a grey he often rode, and
+Henriquez took all the care he could of a nice little chestnut he was
+very proud of, and always rode on special occasions. Things now went on
+much as usual, and we had no visit from the Red soldiers, for which we
+were thankful. I was out pretty regularly looking up the cattle, and I
+kept on fancying from time to time that some were missing; nor, when we
+had the para rodeo did I ever think as many came up as used to do. We
+had some of the small fallow deer of the pampas about among the rocks,
+and they could often be seen coming out towards late afternoon into the
+open glades to feed. I managed to shoot four of them with my rifle, and
+took off their skins which, when dried in the sun, soften easily. I also
+shot a couple of "carpinchos," a kind of water-pig, which could often be
+seen about sunset on the bank of the stream running along the western
+side of the camp. They are hard to get near, and easily frightened.
+Their skins are much thought of by the natives, who get them tanned, and
+put them across the top of their "recados," or saddles. A few days later
+we were all sitting at breakfast when Charles Bent arrived. He had
+someone staying with him at the puesto for a few days, so was able to
+get away. He told us he had not been troubled by soldiers, and that the
+sheep were all right. But he said it was rumoured cattle had been stolen
+from a small native estancia, beyond where he lived, which belonged to a
+"Blanco," and it was supposed they had been taken by some "Colorado"
+soldiers, who wished to escape service, and whose chief hiding place was
+said to be among the large sierras on our camp. Royd did not like the
+look of this at all, as if true it would prove a great danger to our
+cattle, and might easily account for the number we thought missing. Bent
+stayed the night, and did not go back until next afternoon. He told me
+privately he believed there were some bad characters hiding among the
+rocks, but that he did not wish to say more than he could help to Royd,
+as he was apt to take things so much to heart, and it might cause him
+needless worry. But he begged me to be careful, and take every
+precaution when riding about among the sierras alone, looking up the
+cattle, and he advised me to have "Napoleon" with me, and to see that I
+was well armed. He also said he did not feel very happy himself, living
+alone at the "puesto," but as it was well outside the rocks, surrounded
+by open country, he intended to keep a sharp look-out and if possible to
+avoid being taken unawares.
+
+Fortunately, he had a placid, easy-going temperament, and was not at all
+nervous, nor was he inclined to meet trouble half-way. The following
+Friday, a little before eleven, a Blanco officer arrived, and with him
+about fifty soldiers. They were passing from the town of Colla, towards
+Guaycoru, and going on to join the White army. They had several extra
+horses with them, so they did not trouble much about ours, except a
+saino, or brown, which was feeding not far from the house, and this they
+asked to take along with them. I had "Carnival" tied up and saddled, as
+also was Royd's piebald, and Henriquez happened to be riding his
+chestnut down with the sheep. The other horses were among the rocks, so
+they did not see them. We invited the officer in to breakfast, which,
+after the Spanish fashion, we were accustomed to have at eleven o'clock,
+and dinner at sundown. He was quite young, having served but a short
+time in the army. He asked if his men might have something to eat, which
+meant they would like to kill a couple of sheep, and roast the meat over
+two fires made in the open. They also had some "farenha," a kind of
+meal, which they eat raw, with roast meat, and cooked into a sort of
+pudding with boiled. We also gave them "yerba" and sugar to make their
+mate, or native tea, and they were quite happy. They were all more or
+less armed with either lances or guns, and many carried both. Many had a
+revolver, and often a facon, or double-edged knife, stuck in their belts
+behind; but taking them all round, they were quite orderly, and the
+young officer seemed to have them under good control. He told us that
+the revolution was extremely popular. Men were flocking far and wide to
+the White banner, and up towards Paysandu had already joined in very
+large numbers. He asked us if any of the "Colorados" had come to the
+estancia, and if we knew of any being about in our neighbourhood. As
+they departed they looked quite picturesque, with the Blanco device
+round their hats, and the white banner flying from their lances, many
+leading their spare horses. They all rode off at a trotte-cito, or
+jog-trot, the young officer following alone in solitary grandeur behind.
+But their visit, although it passed off quite well, seemed unduly to
+depress poor Royd, whom we found it difficult to persuade into taking
+anything like a cheerful view of the situation.
+
+Towards the end of the next week, Henriquez said he should like to ride
+over and visit a friend who lived at a small native place on the other
+side of Guaycoru. So it was arranged he should go on Saturday morning,
+returning home on the Monday, and that I should keep an eye on the flock
+of sheep. They did not feed far distant from the house, and when once
+turned early in the afternoon, usually fed quietly on their way home. So
+on Saturday morning after coffee, Henriquez caught and saddled up his
+chestnut, putting on his best gear, and wearing a clean white shirt, a
+black jacket and waistcoat, and a pair of black "merino bombachos," or
+wide trousers, tucked inside a pair of carefully polished long boots. On
+these he buckled a pair of silver spurs, of which he was very proud, as
+also of the handsome silver buttons fastening the wide belt of carpincho
+skin he wore round his waist. Finally he put on his summer poncho, a
+very nice one, and a soft broad-brimmed felt hat completed his
+appearance, which seemed to give him every satisfaction. Just before
+mounting his horse he examined his revolver, which he carefully fixed in
+its proper place inside his belt. I rode with him for about half a mile,
+and the last I saw of him was as he turned round the corner of a large
+grey mass of rock which bordered the track, and so disappeared from
+view. He did not return on the Monday as expected, and on the Tuesday
+morning when the boy drove up the riding horses to the corral, much to
+our surprise his chestnut was among them, with a bit of broken hide
+hanging loosely down from where it was fastened round the horse's neck.
+We supposed, however, it had been collared to a mare where Henriquez was
+staying, as was a usual custom, and had broken away during the early
+part of the previous night, and so found its way home. However, both
+Tuesday and Wednesday passed and he did not return, as we felt quite
+sure he would do, on a horse borrowed from his friends. So on Thursday
+morning I started to ride over to the place where Henriquez had gone,
+and during my absence the boy was to watch the sheep. Arriving there, as
+I did, about nine o'clock, my surprise may be imagined when I was told
+that Henriquez had left them about two o'clock on the Monday afternoon,
+quite well, mounted on his own horse, and that he seemed anxious to
+reach home with as little delay as possible. I stayed about half an hour
+discussing the situation, and then started to ride to the pulperia at
+Guaycoru, to make further enquiries. When I got there the owner knew
+nothing, nor had he heard anything regarding Henriquez from anyone who
+had come to his pulperia. He was a kind little man, and much concerned
+at my news, and he promised to enquire from anyone who called at his
+house if perchance they might have seen Henriquez, or heard any news of
+him. I stayed a little while and got some coffee and two or three
+biscuits, and then remounted a big brown horse I was riding, somewhat
+loosely put together, but sure-footed all the same, and well-accustomed
+to stony country. He had a head quite half of it white, and two wall
+eyes, known to the natives as a "pampa," by which name he usually went.
+Horses of this type and colour were said to have belonged to the
+original Indians of the "Pampas," at the time of the Spanish
+colonisation. After again talking things over with the pulpero, we
+agreed my best plan would be to ride round by Bent's puesto, in case he
+should have heard anything, and if not, I could let him know what had
+happened, so that he too might make enquiries. I arrived a little before
+one o'clock, and saw Bent walking close to his house as I rode up. "Bob"
+ran out barking, but immediately knew me and gave me a friendly
+greeting. Bent, of course, had known Henriquez well, and was much
+perturbed by what I had to tell him. He had neither seen nor heard
+anything. All he could tell me was that it was rumoured there were a
+party of thieves supposed to be fugitives from the Reds, who were said
+to have taken up their quarters in the rocks, and were stealing small
+points of cattle and sheep as opportunity offered. These they were
+supposed to drive off at night if there was any moon, or else
+immediately after daybreak, to a place some considerable distance away,
+where they were said to collect them, and where doubtless they had
+friends ready to receive them. All this, however, was not very
+comforting, but I asked Bent to be sure and let us know at once if he
+heard any news of Henriquez, and also to make his disappearance known to
+anyone he might happen to come across, for he lived not very far from
+the "camino real," or Government road. I then mounted my horse,
+determined to lose no time in getting back to the estancia as soon as
+might be. I knocked the "pampa" along at about his best pace,
+considering the broken ground over which I had to pass. I always had a
+queer feeling passing through the rocks. You could see so little in
+front of you, and were so easily apt to miss your way. However, it was
+barely half past two when I rode up. Royd was at home, and at once came
+out of the house. He was much shocked and greatly upset by what I had to
+tell him, saying again and again he felt quite sure the worst had
+happened, and that we should none of us ever see or hear of poor
+Henriquez again. On Friday Royd and I spent the day searching the tracks
+which ran through the rocky part of the estancia; first those over which
+a horseman returning direct to the house was most likely to pass, and
+then the ones which ran out on either side, which it was not usual for a
+traveller to follow. We came across various signs that men with horses
+had recently been passing in and out of the sierras, for twice we came
+across places where apparently a young cow had been killed and a fire
+made near, where part of it at any rate had evidently been roasted, and
+that quite recently. On Saturday we carefully searched over another
+portion of the estancia, but all without result. Not a sign could we see
+of the missing man. Henriquez "had simply vanished!" On Monday morning
+we sent the boy over to the pulperia at Guaycoru with a letter to the
+pulpero, asking if he could give us any news. But all in vain; no one
+had seen or heard anything of him since he started from his friends'
+house on his chestnut horse to return home on that Monday afternoon, now
+exactly a week ago. Tuesday passed and nothing came to relieve our
+suspense. But on Wednesday morning Bent turned up about eleven o'clock,
+and I saw at once by his face that something had happened. Having his
+friend with him, he started on his horse to come down to the estancia,
+and not wishing to be away longer than he could help, he chose a track
+which ran through the centre of the rocks in a diagonal direction, not
+usually followed, which came out not more than three-quarters of a mile
+from the estancia house itself. Contrary to his custom, "Bob" followed
+his master, instead of staying at the puesto, where the sheep were,
+until his return. Bent was riding carefully along this track when "Bob"
+suddenly began to whine and bark, and turning off on one side
+disappeared round a big rock.
+
+Bent whistled and called, but the dog did not return. So he got off his
+horse and tied him up to a low bush which happened to be near. He then
+took out his revolver and followed on foot in the direction the dog had
+gone. He only went about fifty yards just round the edge of the large
+rock already mentioned when he found himself in a small open glade, some
+thirty yards long, and perhaps fifteen wide, at the far end of which
+stood "Bob," close by an object which lay stretched on the ground. Here
+was all that remained of poor Henriquez. He was lying slightly on one
+side, face downwards; his hat and poncho, and his long boots and silver
+spurs, his jacket and waistcoat, belt and revolver all gone! How he ever
+came there goodness only knew. Nothing was left but his white shirt, his
+black bombachos, and his stockings. It seemed as if the body must have
+been either carried or dragged to the place where it lay. His face
+looked peaceful, and the only thing to be noticed were signs of a wound
+where a bullet had entered just between the shoulders, apparently fired
+from behind. There were no signs of bruised or broken grass or horses'
+footprints, if indeed a horse could have got round the very narrow space
+beside the big rock. Bent covered the face with his pocket handkerchief,
+leaving the body lying exactly as it was when he found it, and then
+returning to where he had left his horse came on straight to the
+estancia. Royd was greatly affected by the sad news which Bent brought
+us, as well he might be. However, he said that he and I had better go
+back with Bent to the place, taking the native peon and a spade and pick
+with us, so that we might dig a grave, and so give the body a decent
+burial. Fortunately, we found a spot close by, where the stones and rock
+underneath the surface soil were more or less loose and detached. When
+we had finished digging the grave, Bent read a portion of the burial
+service, as we lowered all that remained of poor Henriquez into his last
+resting-place. We then filled in the earth again, placing the loose
+pieces of rock we had got out so that they covered and protected the
+top, our intention being later on to fix a wooden cross, suitably
+inscribed at the head of the grave, permanently to mark the place where
+our poor friend lay. It was late afternoon as Royd and I slowly and
+sorrowfully wended our way home, closely followed by the native peon,
+for Bent had returned to his puesto so soon as the interment was finally
+completed. Nothing much happened during the next few days. We had a
+gathering together of the cattle, but we were short-handed, and when we
+got them up to the rodeo we were compelled to conclude that a good many
+of them were missing. One morning, about nine o'clock, a dozen
+Government soldiers rode up, each with a red band round his hat and the
+red banner flying from their lances. They were not too civil, and merely
+said they were taking up horses and men. Our native peon was away among
+the rocks, looking for two of our riding horses, which were missing.
+Pedro, the cook, had retired to a dark corner of the kitchen. Our other
+horses were feeding at some distance from the house, but they asked for
+them to be brought up into the corral, so that they might take what they
+required. So we sent off the native boy to bring them in. Fortunately,
+"Carnival" and Royd's two horses happened to be feeding alone much
+further away, so they did not come up with the others, and the soldiers
+never saw them. They ended by taking five, including the pampa,
+previously mentioned, and they left us two in very poor condition. It
+was rather a trial to see them go off, but the soldiers gave us no
+choice in the matter, so we could not do otherwise than let them go.
+They also asked for some meat, and taking with them the greater part of
+a sheep which was hanging in the galpon, they rode off in the direction
+of Guaycoru, and we were pleased to see them depart without causing us
+further trouble.
+
+On the Monday following, Royd rode over to stay until the end of the
+week with some friends who had an estancia a few miles on our side of
+the town of San Jose. Nothing happened during his absence until Friday,
+when Bent rode up about eight o'clock in the morning, looking much
+perturbed. Fortunately, his friend had been staying with him at the
+puesto as he so often did, for he told me that during the night not only
+had about two-thirds of his flock been driven off and could not be found
+anywhere in the morning, but that the puesto itself had been attacked
+just after midnight by four men, all apparently fully armed. They had
+doubtless expected Bent to be alone, but his dog "Bob" was sleeping at
+the foot of his bed, and woke him up from sleep by his growling, and so
+gave the alarm.
+
+The puesto was a long, narrow building, built mostly of wood, thickly
+plastered inside and out with mud, the inside being well whitewashed
+throughout. The roof was thatched with a reed called "paja," much used
+for the purpose, for it kept the house both warm in winter, and cool in
+summer, and was an excellent protection against heavy rain. The front
+door stood close up towards one end of the building, facing West. Inside
+were two rooms, each with a window facing East, divided by a wall, so as
+to make a living-room, into which you entered, with a sleeping-room
+beyond. This latter had also an extra piece built on to it at right
+angles, so as to give more sleeping accommodation, one of the walls of
+which overlooked the front door. In the middle of this wall, about four
+feet from the ground was a small wooden frame about eighteen inches
+square which had been put in the wall for the purpose of ventilation,
+and inside this was a moveable shutter which slid easily sideways,
+secured by a small iron hook to keep it in its place. Both frame and
+shutter were somewhat discoloured, so they were not easily noticed,
+appearing more or less the same as the mud wall outside. The moon was
+almost full, every now and again shaded over by light cloud, which came
+slowly sailing up from the south, although there was really but little
+wind.
+
+The flock had gone quietly to rest on the large bare open space, where
+they usually passed the night, perhaps one hundred and fifty yards
+distant from the front door of the building. Bent had taken a look at
+them between nine and ten o'clock, before retiring to rest, when they
+appeared quite still, and everything quiet. It would be about two
+o'clock in the morning, when "Bob" began to growl in low but savage
+tones, which awoke Bent and his friend, who soon got into their clothes
+and had hold of their revolvers, which were always kept loaded.
+Meanwhile, Bent thought he could hear low voices outside the front door,
+so with great presence of mind he pushed the table which stood in the
+middle of the sitting-room up against it, and the chairs also, thus
+forming a sort of barricade. Leaving his friend to press the table
+inside against the front door as hard as he could, and also "Bob," who
+was then barking violently. Bent hurried round to the wooden shutter in
+his friend's bedroom wall, already mentioned, and drew it quietly back
+without making any noise. Looking through it he saw four men fully armed
+trying to force open the front door. He could also see their horses
+standing saddled near the outside kitchen only a few yards away. He
+promptly fired full at the nearest man, who forthwith uttered a loud
+cry, apparently wounded. He then fired two more shots in quick
+succession, but after the first shot the men made for their horses in
+great confusion, mounted them, and hurriedly rode away.
+
+The two horses which were missing a week ago had not yet turned up, so I
+sent out the boy to have a good look round among the rocks, and if
+possible to find them, for I feared lest they had been stolen, which
+ultimately proved to be the case, for we never saw them again. Leaving
+the native peon at the house to look after the sheep, I started with
+Bent to go to the puesto, so that we might try if we could hear
+anything of all the sheep he told me were missing. His friend appeared
+glad to see us, for he had received rather a shock, and did not much
+like, after all that had happened, being there by himself. When we came
+to count up the sheep we found the number remaining to be barely six
+hundred some nine hundred having disappeared, which was indeed a heavy
+loss. Poor Bent seemed very sad about it, and well he might be! We could
+only conclude that the four men who attacked the puesto must have had
+accomplices, who drove off the sheep earlier in the night without
+causing much disturbance, by first turning them off the bare place where
+the flock was resting across the ground where they were accustomed to
+feed, before finally driving them off, as they appeared to have done. In
+so doing the strongest and best sheep would naturally go in front, while
+those which were weaker and less valuable would be the ones to stay
+behind. Seeing that four armed men had attacked the puesto, it seemed
+probable that at least an equal number had carried off the sheep. The
+fact that there was so much rocky and broken country in the
+neighbourhood of the estancia, and not very far away, made it all the
+more difficult to obtain any clue as to the route the thieves might have
+taken. The ground was hard, and we could find no trace of where the
+stolen sheep had passed.
+
+Having done all we could in this direction, Bent and I separated, each
+of us riding round to two or three of the neighbours whom we knew, to
+make them aware of what had happened. Late in the afternoon I called at
+the pulperia at Guaycoru, hoping I might perhaps hear something
+there--but all the owner could tell me was he had heard a rumour that
+Mamerto Gomez, the man I had once spoken to at his house, had been seen
+three days previously with half a dozen other men entering the rocks,
+fully armed, from the opposite side, but for what purpose or whether
+they were in any way connected with the carrying off of the sheep, it
+was impossible to say! It was easy to surmise they were up to no good,
+but this was of course merely conjecture, and I completely failed to
+learn anything which might lead to the recovery of the large number of
+sheep which were missing. Royd was to come home the next afternoon, and
+I knew what a blow this would be to him, when he came to hear of his
+loss. I had "Carnival" tied up that night, and sunrise saw me in the
+saddle on my way to the puesto, to consult with Bent as to what we could
+do further, with a view to obtaining some reliable information if
+possible by the time Royd would return. When I got there Bent had heard
+nothing, although he had communicated with more than one traveller
+riding towards the road along which the diligence passed. We arranged
+the direction in which Bent should search during the day, and I took the
+opposite one, and made a long round, calling up anywhere I thought it
+possible I might hear anything. By mid-day, I found myself not very far
+from the pulperia at Guaycoru, so stopped there, and arranged with the
+owner to send over a messenger at once to the estancia should he hear
+anything which would help us. I then rode back to the puesto to consult
+once more with Bent, who by this time--it was now two o'clock--had
+returned from his search, without having obtained any information,
+although he had questioned at least a dozen people since I left him in
+the morning. It was all very trying and disappointing. There seemed
+nothing for it but to return to the estancia to meet Royd when he got
+home, and tell him what had happened.
+
+It was nearly four o'clock when I arrived, and about half an hour later
+Royd turned up, having much enjoyed his little outing. He brought a
+young English boy, about fifteen, with him, tall for his age, with broad
+shoulders, and an upright figure. His name was Frank Tryon, but he was
+generally known as "Francisco." He was an excellent rider, and fond of
+horses and dogs, especially of the pretty "alazan," or chestnut pony he
+was riding when he arrived, with its flowing mane and tail, of which it
+was easy to see he was really very proud.
+
+I helped them to unsaddle, and told the cook to get some coffee ready,
+as they told me they had breakfast as they came along. Royd then sat
+down in an easy chair and began to smoke. "Well, Royd," I said, "I am
+very glad to see you back. I have just come down from Bent's puesto. It
+was attacked by thieves on Thursday night, and two-thirds of the sheep
+were stolen. Bent and I have searched in every direction both yesterday
+and to-day, and we can learn nothing whatever about them." "Goodness
+gracious! that is indeed bad luck," replied Royd, "but I am glad poor
+Bent got off all right; it must have given him a great shock. I hope his
+friend was with him so that he would not be alone." I then told him all
+that had happened, and also what I had heard about Mamerto Gomez and his
+men having been seen entering the sierras. "It is not unlikely he may be
+the real cause of it all," said Royd. "I fully expect that fellow had a
+hand in it, for I believe him to be a regular scoundrel, in spite of his
+suave manner and grand appearance." Certainly Royd bore his misfortune
+with more fortitude than I expected, for the loss was indeed a heavy
+one. The late afternoon was now drawing on, and I sent the native boy to
+bring up the "tropilla," which happened to be feeding not far away, up
+into the corral, so that we might collar Francisco's pony to the
+tropilla mare, and we then let them all out again to feed for the night.
+After dinner we talked the whole affair over before going to bed,
+without, however, coming to any conclusion as to what prospect there was
+of our ever again hearing of the missing sheep. Early on Monday morning,
+leaving Francisco at the house, who said he would keep an eye on the
+sheep, Royd and I rode over to the puesto, where Bent had nothing
+whatever to report. He had managed to interview during Sunday some half
+dozen horsemen who were riding along within reach of him, but could
+obtain nothing in the way of information. Royd and I both took a long
+turn round in opposite directions, each returning to the puesto about
+three o'clock; but it was all in vain: we could learn nothing which
+would help us from anybody. We again held a consultation, and Royd
+determined that for the present Bent should stay on at the puesto and
+have his friend with him, maintaining as strict a watch as possible over
+the sheep which remained. Later, if we failed to hear anything of the
+ones that had been stolen, the only thing to do would be for Bent to
+come down with his sheep to the estancia, and join them on to those
+which were there. As by leaving the puesto he would not only be safer
+and more secure himself, but he could then look after all the sheep
+remaining on the estancia by keeping them together in one flock.
+
+The autumn of the Southern year was now well advanced, and there was
+still plenty of grass within reasonable reach of the estancia house--but
+meanwhile we only thought of this plan as being one suitable for the
+near future. Royd and I then rode home, having had a fairly long day.
+Everything seemed quiet as we followed along the narrow track which
+wound itself like a snake among the big masses of grey rock. Suddenly
+Napoleon, who was with us, started off as if in pursuit of something,
+and I took out my revolver and followed him up. Reaching an open space
+quite hidden from the track, I came upon the remains of a young cow, the
+best joints of the meat having evidently been cut up and taken away with
+the hide on them, while the animal was still warm; indeed, it was plain
+the cow had only been recently killed. I called to Royd who was only a
+little way behind me to come and look. It certainly looked as if thieves
+were not very far off, and in view of recent events it did not tend to
+make either of us feel very comfortable. Probably one of the grey foxes
+often to be seen as evening approached had been visiting the remains,
+and Napoleon had caught scent of it, which attracted his attention. When
+we got home we found Francisco quite happy, and he and I took a turn
+round and brought up the riding horses, shutting them up for the night
+in the stone "manga," instead of leaving them out to feed as usual. We
+also saw to our guns and ammunition. All this gave us food for
+reflection, and we sat up talking and smoking until quite late.
+
+Towards the end of the week we made up our minds to have another
+gathering together of the cattle. Francisco looked forward to this with
+much pleasure, as he was anxious to see how his chestnut would acquit
+himself among the rocks, which were quite new to him. We tied up horses
+over night, and were on the move just after dawn. It was a beautiful
+morning, the sun rose in a clear sky, the herald of a fine day. I and
+the native peon went together to quite the far end of the camp. Royd and
+Francisco taking a position a little nearer home The cattle appeared to
+be coming up well, nor did any so far as we knew succeed in breaking
+back. When, however, we got them up to the rodeo and made a count, at
+least two hundred and fifty animals seemed missing. The native peon and
+boy with the aid of Francisco, kept them there, not allowing them to go
+back to their feeding ground until twelve o'clock. Meanwhile, Royd and I
+went back over the ground again to try and discover if any, and if so
+how many, might have escaped us. However, we failed to find them in any
+direction. That being so the only conclusion we could come to was that a
+large number of the herd, certainly more than two hundred had
+disappeared, and in all probability been stolen. This was by no means a
+pleasant conclusion. Poor Royd was very depressed, and as we sat by the
+fire that evening, turned to me and said, "If this sort of thing goes on
+it will be about time for me to clear out." I tried to comfort him as
+well as I could, although I did not feel at all happy in my own mind;
+far from it. "Suppose we have another gathering up in a week's time, we
+can see what happens then," I said. Meanwhile I will be about on
+horseback as much as I can among the rocks, and I will see if I can find
+a clue to the mystery. "Thank you!" replied Royd, "we will wait and see
+if more of them come up to the rodeo in a week's time." But before the
+day came I could see the matter was constantly weighing on his mind, nor
+did I at all wonder, and I really felt very sorry for him. Next morning
+we were up betimes, and all went to the corral to catch up horses for
+the day. There was a very pretty "dorodilla," or bay filly in the
+tropilla, with a black mane and tail, about two years old. This Royd
+proposed to give as a present to Francisco, as he said it would make a
+nice companion for his chestnut. This pleased him greatly, and he soon
+began to talk of catching it up and leading it about with a halter and
+rein if only it was sufficiently tame to allow this to be done. The
+following days I spent among the sierras, and I could not disguise from
+myself that the various groups of cattle when I saw them feeding, and I
+recollected what they used to look like seemed certainly smaller;
+indeed, several animals I knew and therefore quite expected to see I
+never managed to see at all. All seemed quiet, however, nor did they
+show any evidence of having been recently disturbed. I was riding home
+on Friday evening later than usual for it was close upon sunset, when I
+thought I heard voices. I immediately stopped and listened carefully. A
+light breeze rustling from where the sound came seemed to bring it
+nearer, and I judged it could not be more than one hundred and fifty
+yards distant. There happened to be an open space close to where I was,
+some twenty paces long by ten wide. It had a narrow entrance, and was
+quite surrounded and shut in by the high rocks. I knew well where it
+was, having been there before. So I dismounted and led my horse through
+this narrow entrance into the open space, where he was completely hidden
+from view, and hobbled him and tied him up. I then came out, and
+carefully concealing myself, stole along on foot in the direction from
+which I had heard the voices. I easily obtained sufficient cover, and
+had not advanced at all far when I saw four men, all armed, about sixty
+paces from me. One of them was Mamerto Gomez, the man I had seen at the
+pulperia; I recognised him at once, and he seemed to be directing the
+others, as if they were arranging some plan or other. I listened
+attentively, hoping I might perhaps hear some mention of the stolen
+sheep, but what with the subdued tone in which they conversed and the
+fact that I did not know much Spanish, I failed to make out what they
+were saying. Their horses stood saddled near them, and I noticed they
+wore the red device round their black felt hats. I remained perfectly
+still for quite ten minutes, well sheltered from their view by a large
+piece of rock, where I could see but could not be seen. At the end of
+that time they suddenly mounted their horses and rode away in the
+opposite direction to where I was hid, and I must allow I did not feel
+very sorry to see them depart. I then went back to my horse, and at once
+rode home. Royd also had just returned, and was unsaddling near the
+front door. He had been round to ask three or four of our neighbours to
+help us to gather up our cattle on the Monday morning following. He
+thought, perhaps, if we had more horsemen we might make a more
+successful "para rodeo" than we had done before.
+
+I told him my little adventure, and what I had seen, and he shook his
+head. "That fellow Mamerto is at the bottom of all this trouble, I do
+believe," he said, "and I do wish you had been able to hear distinctly
+what those thieves were planning and talking about."
+
+Only the first sign of dawn was appearing on Monday morning when we
+saddled up our horses and rode silently in among the grey rocks.
+Francisco did not go with us, but he joined us later at the rodeo. I had
+the furthest to go, quite to the end of the estancia, near Guaycoru.
+Bent came from his side, and four of our neighbours each fell into line
+at the place appointed. So this time we mustered a fairly strong force,
+and none of the cattle had any chance of breaking back. But by the time
+we had got them outside the sierras, and even before I could see them
+gathered together at close quarters, I felt sure in my own mind that
+quite a third of the herd was missing. Thanks to our neighbours'
+assistance we were able to make a correct count, and this we did twice
+over, so as to be sure we were correct. There were only four hundred and
+sixty-five animals, not counting a dozen very small calves, whereas
+there ought to have been over seven hundred at least. Anyway, making
+every possible allowance, there were certainly more than two hundred
+missing; not far different from what we had made them out to be ten days
+ago. There was no accounting in any way where the missing animals could
+be, so we had to accept the inevitable and conclude they must have been
+driven off, probably during the night, and stolen. They seemed just to
+have vanished in the same way as did the sheep. One misfortune so
+quickly following the other caused Royd to feel his loss very acutely,
+and it naturally made him despondent and down-hearted. I tried my best
+to cheer him up, but with little success. One day we succeeded in
+running the troop of mares and colts up into the stone enclosure. They
+were swift of foot, knew every turn and twist of the rocks, and so long
+as they kept inside the sierras it was difficult for anyone to get hold
+of them. When once in the corral it was a different matter. A chestnut
+colt, with a white star on his forehead, smaller and younger than
+"Carnival" was easily lassoed, and afterwards tied up to a post, from
+which to no purpose he made strenuous efforts to get loose. He had to
+remain where he was during the night, and next morning we collared him
+to a tame mare, so that he could easily be got hold of when wanted. A
+couple of mornings later, when the riding horses were brought up to the
+corral, Francisco's bay filly was missing, and, after a long search, was
+found, minus its skin, which was but of small value. Why it had been
+killed was a mystery, until some time afterwards it became known that a
+near neighbour was making a set of horse-gear of raw cowhide and mares
+hide; and as this set was a very particular one it required all the hide
+to be of the same colour. So the maker, having run out of mare's hide,
+searched round in the neighbourhood until he found an animal to suit
+him, which happened to be Francisco's filly. The latter was greatly
+distressed by his potrilla coming to so premature an end, but there it
+lay dead, so there was nothing more to be done. This shews the small
+amount of respect there was for property in those days in the country
+districts of the Republic. Immediately following this little event,
+Colonel Pinto Mallada who held an important position in the Department,
+arrived with two hundred and fifty soldiers and encamped near the
+estancia for a couple of days. He sent his adjutant up to say he would
+require a supply of meat for his men to eat, but that orders had been
+given them not to take any horses. Consequently, those we wanted to save
+were brought up to feed within easy distance of the house, as Mallada's
+orders were generally obeyed.
+
+Francisco happened to be left alone at the estancia with Pedro the cook,
+and when he went out to see if the horses were all right, he noticed
+that his chestnut pony was missing. So he went down on an old brown
+horse he was riding to the Colonel's tent, situate under a tree, but he
+was not allowed to see him, as he was taking his "siesta." However, his
+sergeant, whom he interviewed, said he was to come later. The Colonel,
+who was a stern half Indian, was much feared; he spoke little, and had
+but little mercy for his enemies. So Francisco returned to the house and
+went down again to see him later on. He found him sitting sucking
+"mate," while the sergeant stood beside him combing carefully for him
+his long hair, which hung down almost to his shoulders. Francisco told
+the Colonel his pony had gone, whereupon the latter directed his
+sergeant to take him round the encampment, as the soldiers were
+scattered in different places in lots of eight or ten together. No pony
+could be found, so Francisco and the sergeant returned to see the
+Colonel, who then said if the pony was not in the encampment some men he
+had sent away must have taken it, but that Francisco need not fear, as
+he should have his pony back again.
+
+Thereupon Francisco once again returned to the house very sorry not to
+have found his pony--but still hoping for the best. Sure enough in three
+days a soldier rode up with the chestnut pony, apparently none the worse
+for his enforced absence.
+
+This shews the Colonel had a certain kind of feeling about him, although
+at the same time he had little regard for the lives of those who
+happened to oppose his wishes. I believe in the end, a long time
+afterwards, he was shot in Rosario, during some political trouble. Early
+in the next week I rode over to what was known as the "Swiss Colony,"
+some fourteen miles distant from us in more or less a Southerly
+direction. There was a pulperia there where the diligence which came out
+from Monte Video stopped, and often brought us letters--which usually
+came to hand sooner or later, as opportunity offered. However, just now
+Royd was expecting some, and as a few small purchases were also required
+I saddled up poor Henriquez's chestnut, and taking a pair of saddle-bags
+with me, made a start. He was a good little horse, the morning was
+bright and fine, and I enjoyed my ride as I galloped along over the
+rolling country in front of me. I just pulled up at Saballa's pulperia
+as I passed to hear if there was any news. But everything was quiet, and
+no soldiers seemed to be about. Just about a mile distant from the pass
+over the river Rosario, leading to the Swiss Colony, I overtook Mr.
+Frederick Dampier, owner of the Estancia del Pichinango. He also was on
+his way to Quincke's pulperia, so we rode on together. He asked me a
+good deal about Royd, and how he was getting on, etc, and he looked very
+serious when I related to him all that had happened. "I doubt if you
+will ever see either those sheep or cattle again," he said. "I expect
+there is a regular gang of thieves located inside the sierras, with
+Mamerto Gomez as their leader."
+
+"I hope they won't take it into their heads to come our way; it would
+not be the first time such a thing has happened; although, fortunately,
+there is no secure hiding place for them in the day-time here, like
+there is inside the sierras."
+
+When we got to the pulperia I found three letters, two for Royd and one
+for me. I soon completed my small purchases, and half an hour later was
+ready to start on my return journey. Mr. Dampier was also returning by
+the same way we had come, so we rode on together. When we had got
+through the pass, he turned to me and said, "I wonder if you would care
+to go and take charge up at the Cerro. It is where my partner lived
+before he returned to England, a little more than a year ago. You might
+find yourself fairly comfortable there; anyway, you would have plenty of
+room, and you could assist me in the management of the estancia." This
+proposal certainly took me somewhat by surprise, for I had only been
+about nine months in the country, but I thanked him, and said I would
+see what Royd thought about it when I got back, and let him know without
+unnecessary delay. We then parted company, just about in the same place
+where we had met in the morning. The chestnut was going well, the sun,
+now past the meridian, was shining brightly, the air was fresh and cool,
+and my ride was a pleasant one. I thought a good deal as I rode along
+about what Mr. Dampier had said to me, and the more I thought of it the
+better I liked the idea of what he had proposed. The only difficulty was
+that if Royd was going to have continued trouble at the rocks, I did not
+wish to leave him, as it were, in the lurch.
+
+Now that the war had definitely broken out, it seemed to me that if I
+went to the "Cerro," it would certainly be an experience, and there
+would probably prove to be a fair amount of excitement as well. It was
+just after two o'clock when I reached the estancia. Royd had ridden out,
+and did not return until towards sunset. I unsaddled the chestnut and
+let him go. He at once trotted off to find his friends and enjoy a quiet
+feed. He knew they would not be very far away. Meanwhile Pedro got me
+some food and coffee, and I sat down and read my letter, which had come
+from England, over again, and smoked a quiet pipe. When Royd returned I
+handed him his letters and showed him my purchases, which he found
+satisfactory. He had been out among the sierras, and had taken a turn
+round to see a native neighbour, where doubtless he had discussed the
+situation, and why so many cattle were missing when we got them up to
+the rodeo. Perhaps his native friend had given him comfort, for he
+seemed in better spirits than usual. I said nothing to him until we had
+finished dinner and were sitting smoking by the fire in the dining room;
+for winter was coming on, and the evenings began to be chilly. Then I
+told him how I had met Mr. Dampier, and what he had said to me. He
+looked up rather amused. "I think if I were you I should go," he said.
+"Mr. Dampier is an exceedingly nice man, and I feel sure you will get on
+very well with him; and you will be sure to gain a lot of experience at
+a large estancia like the Pichinango." "But what about the trouble in
+the rocks," I replied. "I should not like to leave you without seeing
+you through; that is if I can be of any help to you." "Well," said Royd,
+"I have been thinking things over this afternoon. I can bring Bent and
+the remaining sheep down, and join them on to the flock we already have
+here. He can then look after them all together. Curiously enough, one of
+the letters you brought me is from my friends, with whom I stayed the
+other day, who have their estancia on this side of San Jose. They
+propose, if things get worse over here, I should take what cattle and
+sheep I may have to their camp, and join up with them. They have more
+land, you know, than they really want, and it could carry comfortably
+more stock than I am likely to have remaining here. At any rate, the
+idea seems worth considering, for if this war continues, it might
+perhaps turn out to be the best thing to do." "Well," I said, "we will
+sleep over it all, and then if you are still in the same mind I will see
+about accepting Mr. Dampier's offer." Next morning, we had just finished
+our coffee and were walking down to the corral to catch our horses as
+usual. "Well, Royd, what do you think about it this morning?" I said.
+"Are you still of the same opinion about my going to the 'Cerro'?" "Yes,
+I am," he said. "I think it would be a great pity for you to refuse the
+offer. I have got some letters to write, and as the diligence will be
+passing Quincke's in a couple of days on its way back to San Jose, I
+will send the native peon over with them early to-morrow morning. I will
+finish the letters first, and then you and I can ride over to the puesto
+and see Bent."
+
+"That being so," I replied, "I think I cannot do better than write a
+letter to Mr. Dampier, accepting his proposal, and tell him I will go
+over to the 'Cerro' on Wednesday in next week. The peon could leave my
+letter at Mr. Dampier's house as he passes by."
+
+"So be it," said Royd, "and I sincerely wish you all luck and prosperity
+in the new departure." So I wrote my letter while I was waiting for
+Royd, thanking Mr. Dampier for what he had said to me, accepting his
+offer, and saying I would go over to the "Cerro" on Wednesday morning in
+the following week. All appeared quiet as Royd and I rode among the
+rocks to the puesto. Here and there we passed a few cattle, a silver fox
+we disturbed ran in front of us for a hundred yards or so, and then
+dodged round the corner of a rock, where he probably had his lair. We
+noticed the smell of a skunk a little further along. He, too, had been
+out and about for his morning exercise. Silence reigned everywhere,
+broken only by the shrill cry of the "pteru-pteru," or plover, a cry we
+were so accustomed to hear that we hardly noticed it. When we arrived we
+found Bent all right, having just come to his house to see about some
+breakfast. The sheep were quietly feeding a little distance away. There
+was no news. He had heard nothing; nor had he seen anyone just lately.
+His friend had gone away for a few hours to see a native he knew up
+towards Guaycoru.
+
+Royd told Bent he thought he had better come down with the sheep to the
+estancia, leaving the puesto for the time being unoccupied. This seemed
+to please him rather than otherwise, and it was settled he should come
+down with his belongings on the following Monday, and Royd promised to
+send up the native peon to help him to drive the sheep. Anything he had
+to leave behind could remain in the house, which he could lock up,
+bringing the key away with him, and whatever there was could be sent for
+later. I also told Bent about Mr. Dampier's offer to me, at which he
+seemed somewhat amused, although his good manners prevented him saying
+all that was perhaps passing through his mind. Royd and I then rode
+round by the pulperia at Guaycoru to see if by chance we could hear
+anything which might afford us a clue as to what had become of our
+missing cattle; or indeed, of the stolen sheep. Early next morning the
+native peon rode off with Royd's letters for the Swiss Colony, and I
+gave him mine to deliver at Mr. Dampier's house as he passed. On the
+Monday following he and Francisco made an early start to go and help to
+bring down the sheep from the puesto. The latter rode his chestnut pony
+and hoped to enjoy the ride.
+
+The sheep travelled down well. Bent brought his two horses with him,
+riding one and leading the other as a pack-horse with his things. "Bob,"
+of course, followed, greatly interested, behind the sheep; indeed, he
+seemed to enjoy the excitement of making the move. "Napoleon" gave him
+an affectionate welcome, for they had always been friends. On the
+Tuesday I put together my things. Royd kindly said he would send the
+native peon with me, who could lead the extra horse which was to carry
+them, and then bring him back afterwards. Anything I could not take was
+put into a big box, which was to be sent to Saballa's pulperia by the
+first cart which might pass, whence I could easily get it brought on to
+the "Cerro." I took my Colts revolver and all my cartridges with me,
+also my "Service" rifle, which I had given to me just as I was leaving
+England, and I found I could pack all I was likely to need for the
+present quite easily in two large bundles, which could be fixed on
+either side of the "recado," on the led horse. The peon took a large
+pair of saddle-bags for me on the horse he rode, and I had a smaller
+pair on mine. Wednesday morning, June 15th, proved fine, the sun shining
+in a clear sky. So I bid adieu to Royd and Bent and Francisco, and with
+many good wishes from them all, mounted "Carnival," accompanied by
+Napoleon, and duly followed the native peon who, with the pack-horse
+behind him, had already made a start. And so I bid adieu not without
+regret to "Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo," for I had been very happy there,
+and as I passed along my way it seemed to me, at any rate for the time
+being, a step into the great unknown. When we arrived at the "Cerro del
+Pichinango" I was received by an Englishman called Robinson, who acted
+as cook and general caretaker inside the house. He soon got me some food
+and coffee ready, and he also found something to eat for the man who had
+come with me. There were three peones, or out-door servants about; an
+uncle, and two of his nephews. They were natives of Uruguay, but by
+parentage were Indians of the Pampas, which also showed very clearly in
+their countenances. I wrote a message to Royd on a piece of paper, which
+I gave to the peon for him, just to say I had arrived all right.
+Meantime I had unsaddled "Carnival," and tied him up in a grass-covered
+court or enclosure, surrounded by a high stone wall, where there were
+also several trees and two large iron gates at the bottom, which were
+usually kept locked. The house itself certainly looked imposing. It was
+built the whole width of the upper end of the court, and was divided
+into two parts by a high stone archway, the front of which stood level
+with the court, while the back led direct into the large "galpon," or
+wool-shed, which was joined to the house its full length behind, with
+two large openings on its outer side, closed by wide wooden doors, both
+ends being quite shut in. The house had nine rooms, large and small;
+four on one side of the open archway, which was shut off from the galpon
+by a door in the centre, and five on the other. Each had a large window
+overlooking the court, protected outside by thick iron bars. First came
+the kitchen, with a door leading direct into the open, and a bedroom
+above, for the cook; then, the dining room, with two large windows
+opening on the court; next, a small room, with a little iron stove
+called the gun-room, and next again a bedroom; each having a window
+looking on the court. This bedroom had also a door opening into the
+stone archway. On the other side of this were five rooms, all leading
+one into another; but the fourth had a door opening on the court; while
+the fifth room was called the visitors' room, and had a large high
+window in the middle of the end of the house, which gave abundance of
+light, although it, too, was heavily barred. This room was comfortably
+furnished, while from the others on this side of the archway the
+furniture had been mostly removed, one of them being at this time used
+as a storeroom.
+
+The whole house was an "azotea," having one long flat roof throughout,
+all round which was a low battlemented parapet with open spaces, between
+where you could place firearms for self-defence in the event of a siege
+or an attack from outside. Out of the dining room was an inside passage
+and ladder leading to the roof, which was removable, having a small
+shelter or covering built over it at the top. The roof itself was
+carefully tiled and cemented, collecting all the rain-water which fell
+upon it, and carrying it through pipes into the large Alhibi, or
+reservoir, carefully tiled, which stood in the middle of the court. Here
+the water remained quite cool in summer, an ample supply being collected
+during the rainy weather, sufficient to last the whole year.
+
+There were no wells or springs, for the house stood high on an eminence
+overlooking the surrounding country, the ground all round being of a
+rocky nature, the surface soil in places having scarcely any depth at
+all; indeed, nowhere near the house was it at all suitable for either
+crops or cultivation.
+
+During the afternoon I had one of the tropillas of horses brought up
+into the corral, and we collared "Carnival" to a nice little grey mare,
+so that he could go out to feed with the other horses. But he could not
+escape back again to the rocks, as he certainly would have done had he
+been left loose. The mare, however, seemed very considerate and good to
+him, and he afterwards became quite fond of her. Napoleon, too, seemed
+to settle down easily into his new surroundings, and it was not long
+before he obtained control over the three or four mongrels who barked at
+him on his arrival. I took a little walk round the establishment during
+the afternoon, and had a look over a small flock of "southdowns" which
+fed near the house, and were shut up into their sheep yard at night,
+surrounded by a stone wall. They were now feeding with their faces
+towards home, and were generally looked after by one of the Indian boys.
+
+As I walked along through the long grass, a brace of partridges got up
+close to me, and flew away straight in front of me. Had I taken a gun
+with me they would have been an easy shot. Behind the "Cerro" the
+country seemed to roll away into distance, like the waves of the sea, so
+characteristic of the Pampas of South America.
+
+As I returned I climbed up to the top of the group of rocks just behind
+the house itself, enclosed by a stone wall not by any means in good
+condition. From there the country on one side appeared rocky and broken,
+with a valley running down at right angles, where apparently stone had
+been got out of a kind of quarry, near which I could see two or three
+stone erections, which might be either huts or temporary shelters. Far
+in the distance were woods which seemed to border a river. This I found
+to be the river Pichinango, which was the boundary of the estate on that
+side.
+
+I had some dinner at sundown, and then enjoyed a quiet pipe, and thought
+over the events of the day. Later, I fixed up my things in the bedroom
+joining the archway, in the corner of which latter I placed an old
+wool-bag I found lying about, for Napoleon to sleep on, and I too went
+to bed, asking the cook to be sure and call me in good time in the
+morning. I slept soundly, and the air felt fresh and keen when I went
+out into the courtyard not long after sunrise, where I was
+affectionately greeted by Napoleon, who seemed very pleased to see me
+again. The Indians were already sitting round their fire in the galpon,
+sucking Mate, and Robinson was busy in his kitchen, preparing the early
+coffee. The first thing I did was to have the horses belonging to the
+"Cerro" brought up into the corral, so that I might look them over. They
+were a mixed lot, some seventy in all, and varied greatly in colour and
+appearance. But this was only to be expected, and there were some useful
+horses among them.
+
+A little before eleven, Don Frederico Dampier rode up from his house,
+"La Concordia," situate at the other end of the estancia. I saw him
+coming so went out a little way to meet him. His well-knit but spare
+figure looked remarkably well on horseback. We first took a turn
+outside, and Don Frederico pointed out certain things which needed
+attention. We then went inside, and he gave me the keys of two large
+cupboards which contained linen and household necessaries. He also gave
+me a book called the "log-book," in which I was to write down anything
+which happened, and also the work which was done each day, as it passed.
+By this time, Robinson had got ready some breakfast for us, after which
+we mounted our horses and rode round a troop of cattle called the
+"tamberos," or tame animals; supposed to come up to their "rodeo" every
+day before sundown. However, as a matter of fact, they were quite as
+wild as the larger herd, and it was some little time before I got them
+well under control. We then went on to two of the puestos, each in
+charge of a puestero, or shepherd, who looked after his flock of
+something under three thousand sheep. The first puesto we came to was in
+charge of a "basco" named Laborde, who had emigrated, while yet young,
+to Uruguay, from the Spanish shores of the Bay of Biscay. He was a
+fresh-coloured, good-tempered looking man, still in middle life, and he
+seemed cheerful and comfortable with his wife and three children round
+him. He gave us many particulars about his flock; how they were getting
+on, etc. He had been with them most of the morning; had just ridden home
+to get something to eat, and was going out to give them a turn towards
+home a little later on. He said he had not been troubled by soldiers,
+although he had noticed small detachments passing towards the Sierras,
+but they had not come near either the flock or his puesto. We then rode
+on to the second, kept also by a basco, called Martin, the number of
+sheep being more or less the same as the one previously visited. Martin
+was a fine, robust, good-looking man, in the prime of life; very alert
+and intelligent, and apparently well-versed in the ways of estancia
+life. We passed alongside his flock as they were quietly feeding; and we
+looked over three large points of cattle, and also some mares and colts
+as I accompanied Don Frederico a little further on his way home.
+
+I then bid him farewell and rode back direct to the Cerro, and with one
+of the Indians got the tamberos, before-mentioned, up to their rodeo in
+the afternoon, keeping them there about three-quarters of an hour as a
+matter of discipline, and then as the sun fell towards the horizon on
+the late autumn afternoon the little flock of Southdown sheep drew
+towards home, to be shut in their sheepyard for the night. So I took the
+opportunity of looking them carefully over, and making a correct count
+of them; they were just over three hundred, so that I might the more
+easily become aware, if by ill-luck any should be missing.
+
+The old cook, Robinson, had gone through some exciting experiences in
+his earlier life. When little more than a boy he sailed for the
+Southern seas in one of "Green's" whaling ships, fitted out for a three
+years' cruise beyond Cape Horn, in pursuit of the sperm whale. This was
+then a very profitable occupation. From captain to cabin-boy, everyone
+had a share in the results of the voyage, and when the good ship
+returned, fully loaded with her valuable cargo of sperm oil, she had a
+great welcome from her owner, who often went down to greet her arrival
+in Plymouth Sound. Eventually he rose to be a first-class hand aboard;
+indeed, it was his office to throw the harpoon, as he stood upright in
+the bow of the boat, into the whale, an act requiring not only courage,
+but also great judgment and skill. It was only upon rare occasions that
+the old man could be induced to talk of his sea-faring days. A kind of
+gloom always seemed to lie behind them all, and it was but by a mere
+chance that I happened later to find out what it meant. Like so many of
+the sea-faring class with him drink was the trouble, and after a bout of
+it he would sometimes fall into a kind of delirium, talking incessantly
+to himself, yet hardly aware of what he was saying. It seems he had been
+wrecked on the northern coast of New Zealand in the days of long ago,
+and there he had lived with a Maori tribe, and had wedded a Maori
+spouse. Then came a war with a neighbouring tribe, who proved
+victorious, and he saw his wife tomahawked before his eyes, while he
+himself was unable to render her any assistance.
+
+Following this, he fled into the bush, where he subsisted on fern-root,
+and anything else he could obtain, until by great good fortune he
+managed to signal and attract the attention of a passing vessel, who
+lowered a boat and took him off.
+
+He then worked his way back to England, and afterwards went out to the
+Falkland Islands Company, at Port Stanley.
+
+Finally, he came over to Uruguay, drifted to the "Cerro del Pichinango"
+during the war of "Oribe," where he had remained ever since. So long as
+all went well, he was attentive to duty inside the house; clean and tidy
+in preparing the meals; indeed, never happier than when fully employed
+with his scrubbing brush and an ample supply of soap and water. One of
+his great pleasures was to hoist the Union Jack on the small standard on
+the top of the azotea on feast-days and holidays, when he would again
+lower it at sunset, the same as he would have done on board ship. His
+failing compelled me to keep all Canya, or white rum, under lock and key,
+although I was instructed to deal him out his daily allowance twice
+during the day; when the sun got over the fore-yard, as he was wont to
+express it, and at sundown. Outside he chiefly employed himself in
+chopping and splitting up wood for the stove in the kitchen, with his
+two axes, of which he took great care, and of which he was apparently
+very proud.
+
+We happened to have a spell of fine weather during the first few days
+after I arrived at the "Cerro," so I was enabled to see things generally
+better than I could otherwise have done.
+
+
+
+
+PART II.
+
+EL CERRO DEL PICHINANGO.
+
+
+The Cerro del Pichinango comprised something over sixteen thousand
+acres, on which fed twenty thousand sheep, two thousand head of cattle,
+and three hundred and fifty horses. The sheep were divided into seven
+flocks, not counting a small flock of Southdowns at the Cerro. Each
+flock had its own area of camp, over which to feed, and was located at
+its own "puesto," where its "puestero," or shepherd, lived and looked
+after it. The cattle grazed at will all over the estate, which was quite
+open, without fences of any kind, here and there, in large groups, and
+often in small points of twenty or thirty animals. There was good
+pasturage, and abundant water. The river Rosario, which bordered the
+estate on the West, did not run in a straight line, but curved in its
+course, while at the South-West corner it took a much larger curve,
+forming almost a semi-circle, and here the woods were wider than
+hitherto. All this gave the scenery quite a park-like aspect, which was
+very attractive. On the Southern side the river Pichinango did the same,
+the woods which bordered its banks being even more beautiful, hung with
+creepers and flowering plants, the river winding peacefully in between.
+Here, too, fish could be caught, and the carpincho, or water-pig, was
+able to enjoy himself undisturbed to his heart's content. Moreover, a
+considerable stream called the Canyada Grande, passed right through the
+centre of the estate, running for the most part clean and pure over a
+stony and rocky bed. La Concordia, where Mr. Dampier lived with his
+family, was situate at the opposite end of the estancia to the Cerro.
+The house stood on elevated ground overlooking the river Rosario, and
+its woods on the west, while towards the south it commanded a distant
+view of the Swiss Colony, with its red-roofed houses and patches of
+arable land between. On the right were the wide and beautiful woods
+which bordered the banks of the river Pichinango, where it joined the
+Rosario, at which juncture of the two rivers a broad rincon, or corner,
+was in itself quite a feature of the landscape. To the left the
+grass-covered plain, with here and there a large bed of tall thistles,
+rolled away for some four miles to the northern boundary of the
+estancia. The house was modern and comfortable: built on three sides of
+an open "patio," or court, which you entered through iron gates, and the
+drawing room spacious and airy, with its three large windows coming down
+to the ground, occupied the whole length of the house at the back. On
+the left and in front was the flower garden, divided by a carriage
+drive, which led out past a lodge to the open camp. The "peones'," or
+servants' quarters lay to the right, forming a square, in the centre of
+which was a large "euremada," or shed, with four open sides, used for
+tying up horses under and for the "peones" to seek shelter from the sun
+during the "siesta."
+
+Further away was the "corral," or yard, in which to shut up horses, and
+beyond again were the sheepyards. There was also a considerable area of
+cultivated land, where maize, and potatoes, and "alfalfa," a species of
+clover, flourished, as did a large quantity of fruit trees, planted all
+round an open space, used for the production of vegetables. Winter had
+now come, and the weather had become stormy, with cold nights and cold
+winds from the South.
+
+I was out in the camp pretty continually, nevertheless, visiting the
+various puestos, and turning inwards the cattle, especially on our
+northern boundary. When fine enough I had the Indians at work mending up
+the walls of the sheepyards, which were made of loose stones piled one
+upon another. These had been greatly neglected at the "Cerro" and needed
+building up and repairing, as many gaps were to be seen. Three of the
+gates, too, required attention. After a week, however, the weather
+improved, so a "para rodeo" of the cattle was arranged for the next day
+but one, which was a Saturday. We had our horses tied up the night
+before, and were all ready for a start just before sunrise, Don
+Frederico and his party coming up from La Concordia just about the same
+time. The rodeo, or meeting-place for the cattle, was situate in a
+direct line between the Cerro and La Concordia, about half a mile
+distant from the former. It had the usual big post planted in the
+centre, round which the cattle revolved, and the ground all round was
+quite bare of herbage, evidently well trodden by numerous animals. We
+had help from three of the puesteros, especially from one named
+Marmasola, who not only came himself, but brought three boys with him,
+all well mounted. Laborde and Martin arrived from their own side,
+accompanied by two or three dogs. I was riding "Carnival," who had now
+settled down at the "Cerro," having attached himself to the little grey
+mare with one eye, to which he had been collared on his first arrival.
+"Napoleon" was in great spirits, paying no attention whatever to the
+couple of mongrel terriers who followed behind him. He was quite aware
+that serious business was on foot. I got over with the Indians to the
+north-western corner of the estancia, and we spread ourselves out,
+driving the cattle before us. Some of them seemed inclined to break
+back. This was easily prevented, and I found it much easier to do this
+here, where it was all open camp, than it had been at the Sierras de Mal
+Abrigo, when hindered and surrounded by large masses of rock. Don
+Frederico came up from his side with a good deal of help; so altogether
+we made a very satisfactory "para rodeo." I had no experience of dealing
+with cattle in such large numbers, nor was I surprised to find that care
+was needed to keep them all together on the "rodeo," when we got them
+there. I felt pretty sure, however, that by bringing them up constantly,
+and always keeping them up some time when collected, we should soon get
+the herd under complete control. Don Frederico brought with him a Mr.
+John Jennings, who was living with him at La Concordia. He was a good
+Spanish scholar, and an excellent accountant, fond of gardening, and was
+much occupied at the time with the cultivated land there, to which I
+have before alluded. His figure was decidedly burly; he had a
+good-natured face and thin legs. He did not look well on horseback, as
+he appeared too heavy above the saddle, nor was he really much of a
+rider. Upon this occasion he bestrode a very dark grey, somewhat low in
+condition, and not apparently up to his weight. They both came up to the
+Cerro for breakfast: some mutton stewed with rice, hot coffee and camp
+biscuits; all very acceptable after the morning's gallop. I let go
+"Carnival," and had a little bay horse, with a white blaze and two white
+stockings caught up, and when they returned I rode with them as far as
+La Concordia. Here I stopped for awhile, and then rode over into the
+Swiss Colony to arrange some business which had to be attended to; nor
+did I get back to the "Cerro" until about an hour before sunset.
+
+Curiously enough, since my first arrival, but little seemed to have
+happened in regard to the war. Every now and again a party of Blanco
+soldiers would ride up, have some food, and go on their way. They did
+not take our horses, for these were as yet plentiful, and probably they
+had better ones of their own. The Colorados had not come our way at all,
+being mostly concentrated near Monte Video, the capital, while a fairly
+large force were also encamped in the province of San Jose. Meanwhile
+the Blanco army was said to be in great strength out beyond Paysandu,
+waiting for finer weather, and until the horses should pick up after the
+somewhat early winter. Spring, when it came, advanced rapidly. The days
+soon seemed longer and the weather warmer. We had a good deal of
+sheep-working on hand, as the flocks came up from the "puestos" to the
+Cerro, to be passed through the sheepyards, when it was our custom to
+get through one flock in a day. Don Frederico generally rode up to see
+how the work progressed, bringing two or three "peones" from La
+Concordia, as this winter there was a certain amount of foot-rot among
+the sheep, which needed attention. Fortunately, however, this was never
+really bad at the Pichinango, as a great part of the camp lay high, and
+therefore dry, covered with a hard kind of grass, which grew profusely
+between the longer tussock-grass. The flocks near La Concordia, however,
+fed on lower ground, but they were passed through the sheepyards there,
+when I went down from the Cerro, taking two of the Indians with me to
+assist. And so the days passed on one much like another, until the sun
+began to shine longer, and the weather to get warmer when at length we
+began to realise that summer was not far off. Some four weeks passed
+without anything particular happening, and then came the branding of the
+calves, always an event of supreme importance on a large South American
+estancia. First there was a general "para rodeo" of the cattle, and then
+they had to be shut up in the large stone enclosure, or "manga." Our
+native neighbours had to be advised beforehand of the appointed day, so
+that they might be present to see if any of their animals were by chance
+mixed up with our herd. I also obtained the services of three or four
+natives in the neighbourhood, known to be good camp men, _i.e._, skilled
+in the management of cattle, and especially so at this particular work.
+When the appointed day came round, it proved fine and fortunately there
+was but little wind. We all made an early start from both ends of the
+estancia, and were well on our way when the sun rose in a blue sky.
+Having plenty of horsemen, the cattle came up particularly well to the
+rodeo, where we kept them revolving round for quite half an hour, and
+then by driving a point of tame cattle in front of them, we managed to
+get the entire herd inside the "manga" without much difficulty. They did
+not quite like the operation; odd animals would try to break away, but
+they were quickly brought back, and they looked to me a very large
+number, when once inside the stone enclosure; far larger than I had ever
+seen shut up together before. Meanwhile two big fires had been lighted
+to heat the brands, and all being ready, two natives entered the "manga"
+on horseback with their lassoes, and one by one caught and easily
+brought out the calves. And so the work progressed, until quite a large
+number of calves had already been marked. Then came the time for
+breakfast. A young cow was lassoed and killed, its hide quickly taken
+off, and the meat cut up into large joints, and placed before the fires
+to roast. Biscuits were handed out, also farinha, a kind of
+coarsely-ground flour, grown from a plant in Brazil. The neighbours
+appeared, each mounted on his best horse, with such silver on their
+reins and headstalls, bits, stirrups, or "recados," as they happened to
+possess. They mostly wore a gay-coloured summer "poncho," a
+broad-brimmed felt hat, black bombachos, or very loose trousers, tucked
+into long boots, often ornamented with heavy silver spurs, so that the
+whole scene looked quite picturesque. After breakfast there was a short
+pause, and then the work went on, and it was between three and four
+o'clock in the afternoon before all the calves were branded. The herd
+was now let go, and quickly dispersed, doubtless, very glad to be once
+more free--now that their knocking about was at length over. And then as
+evening drew on young women made their appearance, riding up on
+horseback, dressed in their best clothes, and a couple of musicians
+turned up anxious to have a meal and to earn a few coppers. Music was
+heard on every side, and it was not long before a dance on quite a large
+scale was in progress, and apparently greatly enjoyed. Meanwhile the
+moon rose and shed its silver light upon the scene. The evening was fine
+and warm, and it was after eight o'clock before the company dispersed. I
+watched the scene from the flat roof of the Cerro with much interest and
+amusement, for it was all quite new to me. However, before half-past
+nine o'clock all was quiet, the Indians in the galpon had already gone
+to sleep. I heard old Robinson snoring loudly in his room above the
+kitchen, so I locked up the doors and retired to my bedroom with the
+feeling that all had gone off well; indeed, to me it seemed to have been
+nothing less than quite an exciting and altogether satisfactory day.
+
+Early in November shearing began, which, on an estancia, is the big
+business of the year. It took place at the Cerro in the large "galpon,"
+and suddenly, as it were, the old place began to assume an air of
+importance and activity. Old Robinson, who managed the wooden wool-press
+during shearing, and for the time being abandoned the culinary art,
+started to get all ready, another cook taking his place. Mr. John
+Jennings, usually known as Don Juan, came up to take charge inside the
+woolshed, being a man of knowledge and experience, while I superintended
+the work outside, such as getting up the sheep so that there were always
+sufficient ready waiting to keep the shearers going. The afternoon
+before shearing was to begin a gang of fifteen shearers arrived on
+horseback. They were rather a rough-looking lot, indifferently mounted.
+I had half a dozen of their horses collared, and the others, which were
+poor, and in bad condition, were turned out to feed with them. These
+shearers were supplemented by other natives in our neighbourhood, and by
+those of our own people who knew how to shear, so that quite a good
+number were ready to commence the important work. A number of sheep were
+brought into the yards, and passed up into the small pens, which ran
+along outside the galpon, facing the two wide wooden doors. Two men were
+ready, waiting to catch the sheep: tie their legs and lay them on the
+floor, ready for the shearers. To each shearer, as he finished his sheep
+a little tin token called a "lata" was given, these being counted, and
+entered up in a book in his name at the end of the day and week. Most of
+the payment in money being made at the end of the time. As the wool was
+shorn it was gathered up and carried to two large wooden tables, where
+it was roughly classified according to quality. It was then put into
+long bags, made of a thin open canvas material, which were pressed in
+the wooden wool-press before being packed into the carts, which carried
+them away. The shearers had all to be fed with their proper allowance of
+rations, a matter requiring care and attention, and sheep had to be
+slaughtered each morning, and every now and again a fat cow, as they
+managed to consume quite a large amount of meat. Don Juan was very
+good-natured and pleasant to do with. He thoroughly understood how the
+work should be carried on, and how best to control shearers, and as I
+was glad to assist him in my spare time, I was able to gain a good deal
+of useful experience which might not otherwise have come my way.
+Shearing could only go on during fine weather; after rain the sheep had
+to get quite dry again before they could be shorn. When this happened,
+as also in the evenings, Don Juan would instruct me in book-keeping, and
+in writing Spanish, both of which I was well aware would be of value to
+me as time went on. Day succeeded day, and fortunately during the second
+half of November we had an exceptionally fine spell of weather, without
+it being unduly hot. So the shearing of the sheep made good progress.
+Don Frederico Dampier, who rode up from La Concordia nearly every day,
+seemed very pleased to see how things were going; indeed, the second
+week of December found us finishing up the last of the sheep. One
+afternoon Charles Bent came over from the Sierras for a short visit,
+which was a great pleasure, as I was able to hear how Royd was getting
+on, and how things were going over there, and if many soldiers were
+about. He appeared mounted on his best horse, a good-looking light
+brown, with a white star on his forehead, and a white stocking on the
+off hind leg, also a few white hairs at the root of his tail, apparently
+in the pink of condition. He told us that Royd had now removed all his
+remaining stock to his friend's estancia near San Jose, where he seemed
+to have settled down, and to be quite happy. Nothing now was left at the
+Sierras, and the place was to be handed back to its owner very shortly.
+Bent said he himself intended to go back to his relatives, up towards
+the Rio Negro, so we persuaded him to prolong his visit to the Cerro
+before doing so. He lent a hand inside the galpon, gave out latas to
+the shearers, and saw to various little matters needing attention, so
+both Jennings and I were very glad to have him with us during the last
+days of the shearing. When it ended it was a not unusual custom for the
+day following to be kept as a general holiday before the company finally
+dispersed, and the shearers took their departure. Don Juan, who was
+quite _au fait_ at this kind of thing, thereupon arranged that on this
+day there should be a grand race, in which Bent proposed to ride his own
+horse, and a native, who had a "rosillo," or roan, he fancied very much,
+whom the natives generally thought a lot of, offered to ride his horse
+against him. The course arranged, was to be from the Canyada Grande,
+opposite Laborde's puesto, up to the Cerro, which was about a mile and a
+quarter, more or less. Both riders accordingly paid much attention to
+their steeds, giving them a daily ration of maize, and morning and
+evening exercise. Of course, there was a good deal of betting amongst
+the people in the galpon, for the South American Spaniard is a real
+gambler at heart, and the race was a much more exciting affair than the
+games of cards and dice throwing, etc., which habitually went on among
+the shearers during the evening when work was over. Don Juan, too, had
+always been fond of a bit of racing, and did not hesitate to back Bent's
+horse, which he pronounced the best of the two, supposing always he was
+able to stay the course. It was somewhat a stiff one, and longer than
+usual, the ground rising considerably during the last part of it. Bent
+considered this to be to his advantage, as his horse, accustomed to the
+Sierras, went exceedingly well over uneven ground, and he felt quite
+confident he should win the race. On the appointed day the weather was
+fine, and, as it happened there was no wind. The start was to be at
+eleven o'clock, and I was one of those chosen to see it made, and to
+send the horses and their riders on their way. Both apparently looked
+all right as they jogged quietly down to the starting point. Quite a
+crowd had collected to see the finish. Everyone wore their best clothes,
+and the old Cerro for the moment looked quite gay. It had seen many
+events and happenings in its time. A first-rate start was made, and the
+horses got away quite even. Then Bent's horse took a slight lead, but at
+the end of half a mile, to our great astonishment, suddenly collapsed,
+shivering all over, and breaking out all at once into a thick lather of
+white sweat; indeed, for four or five minutes he could scarcely stand,
+swaying all the time to and fro on his legs, like a drunken man. I did
+not know the least what had happened, but Jennings, who was well up in
+these matters, at once stated his opinion that the horse had been got at
+early that morning by one of the natives, who must have given him some
+poison, probably the leaves of a shrub which grew on the banks of the
+river Pichinango, for he said all the symptoms were just those which the
+leaves of that plant would produce, and he had known it done more than
+once before. These began to pass off during the afternoon, and the horse
+to recover; indeed, by next morning he looked as if nothing had been the
+matter with him. Of course, however, nothing could be proved: the stakes
+had to be paid over, and the bets, which were mostly in favour of the
+rosillo, had to be paid also. I myself had bet nothing on either horse,
+so I was no loser, for, unlike Jennings, as a matter of fact, I really
+had no taste for racing. There was, of course, a good deal of
+excitement, and some quarrelling, in the galpon during the evening--more
+especially as that day, being a general holiday, there had been a
+certain amount of Canya on the go; but Don Juan managed to quiet things
+down. Then the night came, and as it always does, overshadowed all
+things. The next morning all the shearers, having received payment for
+their work, mounted their horses and departed, and the old Cerro once
+again resumed its usual aspect of quiet and dignified seclusion. The old
+year passed peacefully away, and the new one came in with all its
+possibilities and all its hopes and fears. Meanwhile, Mrs. Dampier and
+the children had returned to La Concordia, from their visit to Monte
+Video, which really had been prolonged longer than they expected.
+
+This was chiefly owing to the war, which made the long journey less safe
+than in time of peace, and there was always the danger of having the
+horses taken as you travelled through the open country. Don Frederico
+had gone into town to return with them, taking two peones with him, and
+quite a large tropilla of horses. People generally in disturbed times
+travelled by the diligence, which plied to and fro pretty regularly on
+the "Camino Real," or Government road--but it was a most uncomfortable
+mode of conveyance for a lady with children, so in spite of the risk it
+was preferable to travel in one's own carriage, with a good supply of
+horses and a reasonable escort. Fortunately, all went well, and they
+reached home safely without any trouble or contretemps of any kind.
+
+During the middle of January the weather became very hot, and work had
+to be suspended from twelve until two o'clock as a matter of course, and
+very often longer, for in those good old days, as they were called, the
+custom of keeping the siesta during the summer months held sway over the
+length and breadth of the republic. The old Indian, Feliciano, who lived
+in a little house built of stone down below the big manga, was a
+wonderful old man. He looked after the flock of rams, and was now quite
+old; a true Indian of the Pampas, both in appearance and character, and
+his son, Juan, who was up with me at the Cerro, must have been himself
+well over fifty years of age. Old Feliciano himself was extremely silent
+and reserved. I don't think I ever heard him speak more than three or
+four consecutive words at any one time. But he was most scrupulous in
+the performance of duty in regard to looking after his flock, which was
+never neglected under any circumstances whatever. He had been years at
+the Cerro, where for a long time it was impossible to get him to live in
+any kind of house. He preferred to live in a "tolda," a shelter made of
+mare's hides, stretched over a light wooden frame, as did the original
+Indians of the Pampa, from whom he sprang, and among whom he was reputed
+to have been a leader or chief. As the sun set below the western horizon
+he would walk to some little rise of the ground, where he could better
+see it, and facing it, fall down on his knees and say a short prayer. He
+did not like being observed, but I have myself watched him do this when
+he was not aware that I was within sight. He had descendants living
+round him to the second and third generation. He was said to have been a
+famous horseman in his time, as indeed were all his race, for they
+practically passed their whole lives on horseback.
+
+I had been riding a brown horse, with a wall-eye, and some white hairs
+in his tail; he was not much to look at, but I found him to be
+sure-footed and comfortable, and a good horse among cattle. There was a
+little chestnut, too, which was very pleasant to ride. The Indians had
+horses of various sorts and colours, which they had been accustomed to
+ride themselves. Among these was a little rosillo, or roan, which I
+noticed Justiano liked to saddle up frequently, particularly when work
+amongst cattle was going on. He was not much to look at, being small,
+with rather a hollow back, and he seemed to me poor in condition, and to
+be overworked. Moreover, I saw that he had a nasty sore underneath the
+recado, one day when he was being unsaddled, so I took pity on him, and
+told the Indian not to ride him in future, as I would try to dress the
+wound, and if possible get it well. So I washed it myself, night and
+morning, applying a solution of tincture of arnica, and it soon began to
+mend. The horse, too, improved in condition by a little rest and freedom
+from pain. When the wound seemed nearly all right again, I saddled him
+up with my English saddle, and took him out for about an hour. I enjoyed
+riding him; he was so full of go; but at the same time docile and quiet.
+When I saw Don Frederico, he told me his history. One afternoon at the
+end of the Flores War, a soldier rode up to La Concordia, and asked for
+a fresh horse. "I cannot think what has come to this one," he said. "He
+is a real good one, but no sooner did we cross the river Rosario, coming
+from the Swiss colony, than he seemed to collapse all at once. He has
+come nearly ten leagues (30 miles), without shewing any sign of being
+tired." Don Frederico himself came out at the moment, and looked at the
+horse. "I can tell you," he said. "The rosillo has our mark, and so soon
+as he crossed the river he knew he was on his own camp, where he was
+born. He must have been caught as a 'potro,' or colt, and have been
+tamed by the soldiers. Except that he carries the mark of this estancia,
+we none of us know anything about him. However, go to the kitchen and
+get some refreshment, and we will give you another horse, and doubtless
+the rosillo will be glad enough to find himself at home again." No
+sooner, however, was he let loose, than he gave two or three neighs of
+joy and then he trotted off, straight up to the Cerro, and joined the
+horses there, so we could only conclude he must have originally been
+caught and taken from the Cerro end of the estancia. Such was his
+history, and I now saw after him myself, and took him for my own riding.
+He was a real good little horse, and I liked him more and more as time
+went on. Napoleon liked him, too, and used to lie down beside him when I
+had him tied up under the "ombu" tree, which gave so good a protection
+from the sun in the courtyard, and then as evening came I let him loose,
+so that he might join the other horses, and feed and enjoy himself to
+his heart's content.
+
+As it happened, since the New Year, no soldiers had passed the Cerro,
+nor had we heard any news of the war, but I was quite prepared to look
+upon this as merely an interlude, and we kept a good look out,
+especially in the early morning and late evening. So soon as the hot
+spell passed, and the weather became cooler, our first business was a
+gathering together of the horses. This meant a general sweep up of
+everything in the shape of a horse on the estancia: the riding horses at
+La Concordia and the Cerro alone excepted, for these were brought up
+into the corral each morning, in accordance with the daily routine.
+There were two large "manadas," or troops of mares with foals at the
+Pichinango, one called the "saino," or brown, and the other the "moro,"
+or dark blue roan; these being the colours of the respective stallions
+which presided over them. These "manadas" usually fed quite apart, on
+different portions of the camp. They each made up a large number, as
+they included not only yearling foals, but both colts and fillies of two
+and three years old, although the former of these usually cut themselves
+off from the main body, forming small points feeding by themselves. To
+gather together so many horses and keep them in control a good many
+horsemen were needed, so nearly everyone who could ride joined in.
+Marmasola, who had a small lot of mares of his own which fed on the
+estate, was in great force with his sons and two other native friends.
+Laborde and Martin were always ready to help, and the Indians were
+delighted at the prospect of a really first-class gallop. I got a man
+called Pedro Lima, living in the Swiss Colony, but really himself a
+native, and a first-rate camp man, to come and take charge of the
+operation of getting all the horses shut up in the big manga; not an
+easy matter unless they were skilfully handled; and I asked him to bring
+two or three of his native friends well-mounted with him. In accordance
+with camp etiquette, I sent round to our native neighbours, inviting
+them to come and join us, as we intended branding some foals, so giving
+them the opportunity to come and see if any of their animals were by
+chance mixed up with our horses. The appointed day proved fine, and we
+were all in the saddle before sunrise, old Robinson alone excepted. We
+had arranged to join up with Marmasola and the party from La Concordia
+and so form a continuous line, driving everything in the shape of a
+horse straight in front of us in the direction of the Cerro. It must be
+remembered that this was a much more critical job than gathering up the
+cattle, as the horses could travel as fast or faster than we could.
+Moreover, when dealing with them in large numbers, care and good
+management were a real necessity if they were to be shut up inside the
+manga at all. I rode "Carnival"; the Indians were mounted as they liked
+themselves; "Napoleon," although he was no use, would not be left
+behind. Don Frederico and Mr. Jennings and their people joined us at the
+place appointed, as did Pedro Lima and his friends, as well as the
+puesteros, when plans were laid down and instructions given all round as
+to how the work was to be carried out. Don Frederico, who was a
+beautiful rider, was mounted on his gay rosillo. He always rode on a
+recado, with silver mounting in front and behind; he had silver fittings
+to his bridle, and chain reins for a little way, just where they joined
+the bit, then made of well-worked and softened hide, with silver rings.
+He wore long boots, silver spurs, and carried a light summer poncho
+across his saddle in front of him. Altogether, a picturesque figure!--a
+true estanciero of the old regime--nor do I think he was ever happier
+than when he felt his best horse under him, and work of this particular
+kind was the order of the day.
+
+Jennings, on his dark grey, cut a different figure; he did not look the
+genuine camp man at all, neither was he in the slightest degree; and it
+was easy to see that work of this kind was not congenial to him.
+Marmasola and his boys were in great spirits. What he did not know about
+horses was not worth knowing, although he himself was not a great rider;
+advancing years were beginning to tell their tale. But he had been
+through the war of Oribe, generally known as the Big War. He remembered
+the traditions of "the past," and as he had now been on the estate for a
+great number of years, certain privileges were accorded to him; but at
+the same time he would spare no trouble and was always willing to do
+anything he could to benefit the estancia and its owner. We all formed
+into line on the western boundary, facing towards the Cerro, stretching
+out both to right and left, and riding some three hundred yards apart.
+We allowed the cattle to go back between us, but drove all horses of
+every kind in front of us. Some of the colts tried hard to break back,
+and for the moment succeeded, but were eventually rounded up and brought
+back within the line. "Carnival" carried me splendidly: he was really
+very fast, and at the same time perfectly sure-footed. He made one feel
+quite safe even at full speed, and it was a pleasure to be so well
+mounted. Meanwhile, the line kept drawing in, and as the horses in front
+of us began to get up towards the manga, Pedro Lima and a couple of
+natives, by making a swift detour, got round in front of them so as to
+round them up as much as possible, more or less where the rodeo of the
+cattle was situate, and so to keep them in some measure under control
+until we all came up from behind and were able to form a regular ring
+round them. Meanwhile the old Indian, Feliciano, had some half a dozen
+tame horses not very far from the open gateway of the manga, and as
+these gave a convenient lead to all the others, we got the whole lot
+safely inside without much difficulty. This was fortunate, because if
+horses in a round-up of this description once succeed in breaking away
+in any number together, they are very difficult to get back again, owing
+to the speed at which they can travel. Once inside the manga, however,
+we were able to look them over at our leisure. There were a good many
+foals to be branded, so a fire was got ready. Moreover, breakfast had to
+be thought of, and it was not very long before a couple of roasts were
+preparing in front of it. We found there were nearly a dozen colts over
+four years old which in the ordinary way ought to have been caught up to
+be tamed, but owing to the war, it was decided to put this off for a
+year, for the reason that a good-looking colt which shewed any signs of
+having been handled, was more likely to be taken by soldiers than one
+which had been left entirely alone. They were very clever at seeing into
+this, even when the animals were feeding in the open camp. We found some
+riding horses shut up with the troop which did not belong to the
+estancia, but had probably been left behind by soldiers as they passed.
+These we caught up and took down to La Concordia, so that they might
+meanwhile do such work as they were able. If they could do nothing else
+they would be good enough for the puesteros to look after their sheep
+on, or for the ordinary routine work of the estancia. It was very
+interesting to watch all the horses when gathered together in the manga.
+I had never, of course, seen so many collected before, and it was a
+pretty sight to watch them and to note their different colours and
+characteristics. During the interval for breakfast the two stallions
+occupied themselves in having a fight, attacking each other fiercely;
+standing on their hind legs and striking at each other with their fore
+feet; then they would go round in a circle, each looking out for an
+opportunity to strike more effectively. Many of the mares too were busy
+picking up their belongings,--as they would often have a foal and a
+yearling, and even a two-year-old descendant regularly following after
+them.
+
+It was very interesting to watch them all, and to observes their ways
+and manners. There was plenty of opportunity to do this, as after the
+foals were branded we did not let them go until between three and four
+o'clock. When at last they were turned loose, they did not let the grass
+grow under their feet, but soon divided themselves off more or less into
+their own lots, and with their own companions. Indeed, had they been
+looked up early on the following morning they would have probably been
+found feeding more or less together in the same groups, and on the same
+particular part of the estancia where we had originally found them. The
+weather had now become quite hot again, and we had continual sunshine
+for nearly a fortnight. There was a stone puesto about half way between
+the Cerro and the "Pass of the Pichinango," where an old negro called
+Tio Benigno lived, looking after a flock of sheep. He was now dead, and
+the flock had been removed, but his so-called widow, black like himself,
+was still living on there, with a numerous progeny of various sorts and
+sizes, almost destitute of clothes who ran in and out of the abode like
+rabbits, when anyone happened to ride up. They seemed to be living on
+the rations which had been allowed to the departed parent, which were
+still being allowed to them. Don Frederico would have been glad if I
+could have got them to leave the puesto altogether, but the question was
+where were they to go? I was riding down to La Concordia during the
+siesta when I saw a peculiar sight. As I was about to cross the Canyada
+Grande, a short way further up the stream, the black lady was sitting
+astride an old dun horse, short both of mane and tail in the middle of a
+large pool, with a fishing rod in her hand, apparently intent on
+fishing. Of clothes she had none. Such garments as she possessed lay in
+a heap on the bank by the water. Her black skin fairly shone and
+glistened in the sunshine. On her head was an old black silk top hat,
+which also reflected the rays of light. It had doubtless been a gift to
+her departed husband from one of the young Englishmen who might have
+been staying at the Cerro, presumably with no idea, however, that it
+would be put to its present use. The lady saw me pass, but did not
+appear in the least to mind. She simply gave a broad grin, and leaving
+her to pursue her peaceful occupation, I passed on my way. Not very long
+afterwards someone who had known her husband asked her to go and keep an
+eye on quite a small lot of sheep, and also to act as "lavandera," or
+washer-woman, as well. So I persuaded her not to lose the opportunity of
+changing her abode, and gladly sent a cart to move such belongings as
+she had. Indeed, I was glad to have the puesto empty, for it was in the
+direct route along which soldiers would pass coming from the town of
+Colla, and going north, and it seemed better that they should have the
+road clear in front of them. Rumour in time of revolution was always
+busy, and it was said that the Colorados intended for some reason best
+known to themselves to fall back before very long from the province of
+Colonia, and join up with their main force in the province of San Jose.
+Should this prove correct, it seemed probable that a portion of the
+Blanco army, which, during all this time had been steadily concentrating
+up beyond Paysandu, would seize the opportunity to occupy that province
+themselves. That being so, it seemed obvious that open hostilities,
+which had now for some time seemed far away from us, would come much
+nearer. The fact was it was impossible to foresee what lay before us in
+the future, and all we could do was to carry on as well as we could for
+the present, and hope for the best.
+
+Up to now we had certainly been very fortunate, for our horses had not
+been taken; all had gone on very much as usual; nor had there been any
+interference either with our sheep or cattle. There happened to be two
+colts among the horses at the Cerro nearly five years old: a bay and a
+brown, and I determined to have these tamed. One was the foal of the bay
+"madrina" mare, and the other had joined the troop on its own account.
+They were both accustomed to come up each day into the corral, and to
+see people about, nor had either of them led the wild life of the open
+camp. So there was every reason to suppose they would prove docile, and
+I did not trouble to look out for a regular "domador," or horse-tamer,
+as I thought that Juan, the Indian, would manage, with the help of his
+nephews, both of whom were good riders. The rough and ready system of
+taming in the old days consisted of lassoing a colt in the yard, tying
+him up to a post for the night, and next morning saddling him up with a
+"recado," with the "cincha," or broad hide girth, as tight as possible.
+A narrow piece of hide nicely softened was then tied twice round the
+lower jaw, to which the reins were attached, a couple of pieces of soft
+sheepskin were fastened over the framework of the recado, while the four
+legs of the animal were tied together by a "maneador," or long thong of
+hide, in such a manner that by giving one pull it would all come loose
+and fall to the ground. The colt was then untied from the post to which
+he had been made fast, and up got the rider, who was going to give him
+his first gallop. Two men were ready on horseback, one on either side,
+while a third man on foot gave the thong round the horse's legs a sharp
+pull, when it fell loose. Usually the colt would make a wild rush
+forward, the two horsemen keeping each as close to him as they could on
+either side, so as to steer him in a straight line. Old Juan was now
+over fifty, nor was he a regular tamer; but he could still sit tight on
+a horse which did not buck-jump too hard or too long, and there was
+always the chance that he would not buck-jump at all, but just bolt off
+across the open camp. With the bay colt even this did not happen, for he
+merely lunged forward at a sort of uneven trot, wondering very much at
+finding anyone on his back. Then he stopped, unwilling to proceed, which
+Justiniano quickly made him do by a free application of his whip.
+Eventually he made his first gallop all right and came back apparently
+having had quite enough of it. That evening the brown colt was tied up
+as had been the bay, and the same procedure was followed in the early
+morning. Unfortunately, however, he buck-jumped rather badly, so soon as
+he was mounted and let loose, and he gave Old Juan a bit of a shaking,
+but he did not do it for long, and the Indian was able to sit tight and
+give the colt his first gallop, bringing him back quite sufficiently
+subdued for one day at any rate.
+
+The gallops went on each morning, with both the colts for about ten
+days, by the end of which time not only was there no more buck-jumping,
+but they were beginning to get handy even to the extent of answering the
+pressure of the rein on the side of the neck, and of turning in some
+measure as required.
+
+Juan was quite proud of his performance, and began to imagine he was a
+young man again and a regular horse tamer. Moreover, an extra allowance
+of Canya, or white rum, of which he was always fond, and at once took
+effect upon him, made him talk most amusingly of all the colts he had
+tamed in his early life, and the wonderful things he had done. At the
+end of three weeks, both the colts were bitted and could be ridden
+either by Margarito or Justiniano, and it was not long before they were
+able to take their place among the tame horses.
+
+Attached, as they were, to the tropillas, they were as likely to be
+taken by soldiers as colts as they would be when tamed, for they would
+know well enough that young horses among their surroundings were not at
+all likely to be difficult to break in. I had been lately riding a
+"manchado," or piebald horse, which had been bred and born town of
+Colla. He had not much to commend him, but he was easy and quiet to
+ride. A sad story was connected with him. Between two and three years
+previously a young Englishman of good position who had come out to have
+a look at the country, was staying as a guest at the Cerro. One day he
+rode the "manchado" over to the little country town of Colla. He had not
+much to recommend him. Returning late at night, he unsaddled the horse
+in the small yard, just outside the stable. He then took off the bridle,
+and then, not thinking what he was doing, gave the horse a hit with the
+reins on his quarters, to drive him out of the yard. The horse kicked
+out sharply with both hind feet, one hoof catching him just under the
+throat, and the other at the pit of the stomach. He fell senseless to
+the ground, and must have remained unconscious for some time. When he
+came round, he managed to crawl into the galpon and awake the Indians,
+who, as usual, were fast asleep. They gave the alarm, and a messenger
+was sent in all haste for a doctor, who was then living on a small place
+he had beyond and to the eastward of the Cerro. He kindly came over at
+once, and applied such remedies as he could, but to no purpose, for the
+poor young man during the morning again became unconscious, and late in
+the afternoon passed quietly to his rest. It was indeed a sad business,
+and what made it worse was the thought of how easily it might have been
+avoided. The "manchado" used to rear a bit at times, but not really
+badly, and I never knew him show the least sign of kicking during the
+time I had anything to do with him. Later on, I handed him over to
+Justiniano, who always gave his heels an uncommonly wide berth, and
+eventually he was taken by a party of soldiers, and we saw no more of
+him. About a week later I had occasion to ride over one afternoon to the
+pulperia on the other side of the pass across the river Rosario,
+opposite to Marmasola's puesto. I called in as I passed to enquire if
+there was any news, and I saw his wife, who told me her husband was out
+with the flock. Reaching the pulperia, I found the owner, a tall
+good-natured looking man, at home, and we soon arranged the business
+about which I had come. He then told me that towards the end of the
+previous week Mamerto Gomez, a captain in the Red army, was coming out
+of the town of Colla with a troop of Colorado soldiers, on his way
+towards the province of San Jose. A short distance beyond the furthest
+houses a poor cripple sat by the side of the road begging. Mamerto
+halted as he passed, and turning to one of his soldiers, said, "Mata me
+aquel Bicho amigo," "Friend, kill that reptile for me," whereupon the
+man got off his horse and cut the poor cripple's throat from ear to ear.
+Leaving the dead body by the roadside, Mamerto Gomez and his troop
+passed on their way as if nothing had happened. I asked the pulpero if
+he had ever seen Mamerto, and what he was like? "Yes, Senor, I have seen
+him two or three times," he said, "and not long ago"; and he at once
+gave me particulars as to his appearance. Of course, I had no difficulty
+in recognizing him as the same Mamerto Gomez I had first seen at the
+Pulperia de Guaycoru, when the old negro said to me, "Cuidado, beware!"
+and as the man who had been seen entering the Sierras de Mai Abrigo,
+whom Royd had always believed to be the real cause of all his trouble
+and ill-luck, viz., the sad death of poor Henriquez, and the stealing of
+Bent's flock, and the attempt to break in to his puesto at night. I
+called at Marmasola's as I rode back, and found him in, and, as usual,
+we discussed the war. He, too, had heard that the Reds were leaving
+Colonia, and thought it would not be long before the Blancos turned up
+there in considerable force, when he thought it likely we might have
+parties of soldiers coming our way, as we should then be in the direct
+line of route between them and the concentration of their main army out
+towards Paysandu; so there was pretty sure to be a certain amount of
+coming and going. He also told me a story of two young Englishmen who
+came out to Monte Video during the Flores War, with the intention of
+making their way up country. They started to ride out from there alone,
+without any guide, and very foolishly, before leaving the city, they
+drew a considerable sum of money from the bank, which they carried out
+with them. They reached San Jose all right, and the following day
+proceeded on their way in the direction of the Cerro del Pichinango,
+where they intended to pass the night. They stopped at a pulperia, or
+store, for some refreshment about eleven o'clock, where there happened
+to be about a dozen natives, among whom were four or five of very bad
+character. Such was the account given to the police, who afterwards made
+enquiries. Whether they let these men know they had money with them
+nobody ever knew. They were known to be dressed each in a light tweed
+suit, with a large check pattern on it. The two young Englishmen were
+never heard of again, but a long time afterwards pieces of the cloth
+they were said to have been wearing were found in the wood on the
+further side of the river Rosario, not far from the pass which led over
+to the Estancia Pichinango. The conclusion come to was that three or
+four of the natives got on in front of them and attacked them, probably
+just as they were about to enter the pass, which was rather a wide one,
+and having shot them, either dragged or carried the bodies into the
+wood; of course, taking the money and everything they possessed from
+them. Whether or where they buried the bodies, of course, was not known.
+So much time having elapsed, it was impossible to make further
+enquiries. They had simply vanished--and being war-time, it was supposed
+that anything might have happened to them, for at that time in the camp
+murders even in broad daylight were by no means uncommon.
+
+Marmasola always assumed a very serious aspect when telling this story,
+which usually ended by his sitting down on a "banco," or low wooden
+stool, and drawing the size of the check pattern on the garments of the
+deceased on the mud floor with the point of his knife, at the same time
+saying in a solemn tone, "Los dos pobres finados caramba!" "Alas, for
+the two poor dead men!"
+
+I allowed him to finish without interruption, and then I mounted my
+horse and rode home to the Cerro, pondering on the many vicissitudes
+which it seemed possible might happen to the unwary during life in
+war-time in a South American republic. Nothing had happened during my
+absence. We got the "tamberos" up to their rodeo, and kept them there
+awhile, and when I got back the little flock of southdowns were about
+ready to be shut up in their sheepyard for the night. I looked them over
+to see that they were all right, and then I went up on to the flat roof
+of the house to have a good look round with the glass, and so see if all
+was quiet. The sun meanwhile was about to set, and it was not long
+before the light began to fade, and one more day had passed and was
+gone. When next I saw Don Frederico he discussed the situation, and said
+he thought it would be wise to sell a certain number of the "capones,"
+or wether sheep, which were now in good condition, and also to get a
+tropero, or buyer of cattle of good position to come and purchase as
+many "novillos," or bullocks, as we could get him to take, as by so
+doing we should not only lessen the stock we had to look after on the
+estancia, but it would do away with the risk of losing them. The
+"capones" chiefly fed together in one flock near La Concordia, with a
+certain number in two of the other flocks, so there need be no delay in
+having them parted out so soon as we could arrange with a purchaser. So
+he decided to attend to this within the next day or two. Meanwhile, if I
+heard of anyone likely to purchase up in my direction, I was to let him
+know. He also said he would write to one or two of the troperos, who had
+been accustomed to buy novillos from us, informing them that we had a
+good number for sale, and asking them whether they would be able to make
+up a troop. It was not long before two buyers of sheep applied at La
+Concordia. A day was fixed for parting them out, and I went down early
+with two of the Indians to help to pass the flock through the
+sheepyards. The purchasers happened to be friends, so agreed to part
+both together on the same day, and divide the sheep between them
+afterwards. Altogether they took between six and seven hundred, and
+after they had finished we helped them over the Pass of the Rosario,
+facing the Swiss Colony, where they intended to shut them up for the
+night, before continuing their journey to the town of Colla, where one
+of them resided. During the following week we passed the other two
+flocks through the sheepyards at the Cerro, drafting out all the capones
+and sending them down to the flock at La Concordia to replace the sheep
+there which had been already sold.
+
+Early in the following week, a little before eleven o'clock, a tropero
+arrived at the Cerro, and enquired if he could see Don Frederico, as he
+wanted to buy some "novillos." I had been out early on horseback, and
+had not long returned, and was just about to have some breakfast. I told
+him that he was at La Concordia, at the other end of the estancia, and
+invited him to come inside and join me, which he seemed pleased to do.
+He had a peon with him with a led horse in addition to the ones they
+rode, whom I directed to get something to eat in the galpon. The tropero
+was grandly dressed in full native costume, a beautiful summer poncho,
+bombachos of very fine black merino, tucked inside long boots, the
+latter adorned with large silver spurs, and I noticed he was fully
+armed. He was an agreeable man, evidently well educated, and he told me
+he had two other men and a tropilla of horses in the neighbourhood who
+had gone to look at some bullocks at a small native estancia. Breakfast
+over, I left him to finish his coffee and smoke, while I went out to
+tell Justiniano to catch me up another horse. I then offered to
+accompany him as far as La Concordia, so that if Don Frederico happened
+to be out, I could have him sent for with as little delay as possible. I
+gathered the tropero wished to make up quite a large troop, en route for
+Monte Video, and as we had a good many animals to sell, I did my best to
+make conversation. Fortunately, when we reached La Concordia, we found
+Don Frederico at home. The tropero's credentials were quite satisfactory
+to him, as was the price offered. It was therefore agreed that he should
+part out and purchase all the novillos on the estancia which he thought
+old enough and in sufficiently good condition to take. We on our part
+undertook to have all the cattle gathered on the rodeo on Thursday
+morning, so that he could part out his bullocks, and to help him to the
+best of our power--payment, as usual, to be made on delivery. The
+business concluded, the tropero had a glass or two of wine and departed.
+He said he had plenty of horses with him for his men. I then rode back
+at once to the Cerro, and sent off one of the Indians to advise our
+native neighbours and the other round to Laborde, Martin and Marmasola,
+to inform them at their puestos of what we had arranged, so that they
+might give help as usual. We tied up horses on Wednesday evening, and
+made all ready for an early start. I rode "Carnival," the Indians, too,
+were fairly well mounted. We met the party from La Concordia, Don
+Frederico riding his rosillo, with two big dogs following him, and
+Jennings mounted on his dark grey; he seldom rode anything else. The
+tropero and his men did not take part in gathering the cattle, but
+joined us at the rodeo, near the Cerro, mounted on their best horses,
+while the others they had with them were meanwhile feeding not far off,
+with a boy in attendance, to look after them. The cattle came up well,
+and just as we got to the rodeo, Pedro Lima arrived with a couple of
+natives, and also three or four of our neighbours beyond the Cerro
+turned up, so we had plenty of help to keep the cattle well under
+control. Don Frederico and the tropero came up to the house for some
+coffee and a biscuit, but we were soon back again, when the work of
+parting out the bullocks at once began. A point of tame cattle had
+meanwhile been brought up to a suitable position a short distance from
+the herd. These were guarded by Juan, the Indian, with his two nephews
+to help him. The tropero was mounted on an "oscuro," or black brown
+horse, and his two men rode one a grey and the other a bay.
+
+He began by riding in among the cattle with one of his men, singling out
+a suitable bullock, and then the two together, one on either side, ran
+it out into the point of tame cattle, where it had to remain whether it
+liked to or not. Then a second bullock was run out, and so on, one after
+another, until quite a good number were parted. One of the tropero's men
+now went to help the Indians to guard them, as every now and again one
+would try to escape, intent on rejoining the main herd, and occasionally
+a bullock would break loose and make for the open camp, determined to
+fight hard for liberty. But it was not to be! for the men were
+well-mounted and knew their business, and the horses knew theirs. They
+were, of course, faster than the bullocks, and when an animal was
+desperate, and really refractory the lasso came into play, and he was
+brought back his energy spent, and having been well bullied about he
+generally thought it better to keep quiet for the time being. A really
+good horse for work of this kind must be safe and quick on his legs, and
+have plenty of courage. Indeed, the best thing the rider can do, if well
+mounted, is to sit tight and leave as much as he can to his horse, who
+seemed to know all that was expected of him, and was seldom found to
+fail.
+
+It was now eleven o'clock, seventy-five bullocks had been parted; each
+one being counted as it went by two people. So a fire was lighted, and a
+large "asado," or roast of mutton, put on, a little coffee and sugar,
+some biscuits, farinha and yerba, for the men's Mate were brought down
+from the Cerro, and it was not long before breakfast was ready. When up
+at the house I let "Carnival" go, and saddled up the rosillo, who was
+now in first-rate condition. Work was resumed with as little delay as
+possible, and when the tropero announced it was time to stop one hundred
+and sixty bullocks had been parted. The tropero seemed well satisfied,
+and so were we. Our next business was to give him every assistance to
+get the animals outside the boundary of the estancia, where they would
+be easier to manage than they were on their own camp. Meanwhile we kept
+the tame animals with the novillos which had been parted, to give them a
+lead and so render them easier to drive, and we made a start towards the
+pass of the Rosario, beyond Marmasola's puesto. There being many of us,
+we had no difficulty in getting them across the pass, and when they had
+gone a short distance on strange ground we parted out the tame cattle,
+and I returned with them to the Cerro. Don Frederico and Jennings, also
+the tropero, rode to La Concordia, to receive payment and give the usual
+certificate, shewing the mark and number of the animals sold, this
+document being required for the police. The sun was now declining fast
+towards the horizon, and we had made a fairly long day. Supper, when it
+came, was welcome, and the pipe which followed it; and having duly
+recorded particulars in the log-book, I was not sorry to lock up and get
+early to bed. Autumn was now past, and it would not be long before
+winter, with its rain and storm, cold nights and early mornings, would
+be really upon us. I had three cart-loads of wood brought up from the
+"monte," where we had some men working. Some of the flocks had to be
+passed through the sheepyards, and what with attending to one thing and
+another, I always found the day pretty fully occupied. Ten days later a
+party of Blanco soldiers rode up and asked if they could have some food,
+and also fresh horses. They were on their way to the town of Colla,
+having passed not far from Guaycoru, as they travelled from outside.
+With them was Colonel Mallada, who had sent back Francisco's pony at Las
+Sierras de Mal Abrigo. He had a great reputation among the natives as a
+fighter. When I went out I found him sitting on his horse, surrounded by
+some twenty soldiers. I invited him to get off and come in and have some
+breakfast while the soldiers lit a fire at a little distance, and made
+themselves a roast outside, for, as it happened, we had a whole sheep
+hanging in the galpon, ready skinned and dressed. I was amused to see
+the attitude of the Indians when the Colonel passed through into the
+courtyard. They stood up together on one side, as it were, at attention,
+with a very solemn expression of countenance, and they evidently looked
+upon him as a man to be feared rather than loved. He was quite civil
+during our meal, and told me that a large division of the Blancos were
+coming down to occupy the province of Colonia, while the main army was
+now largely concentrated outside, waiting for a favourable opportunity
+to march in to the province of San Jose, and so on towards the capital
+itself. He seemed to enjoy a cigarette with his coffee after our meal,
+and a glass of Canya also met with approval. Meanwhile, I had told
+Justiniano to get all the horses up into the corral. I had "Carnival"
+tied up under the ombu tree in the courtyard. The Colonel himself was
+well-mounted on a good-looking grey, apparently quite fresh. The
+soldiers caught five of our horses, and left us three tired ones, so we
+did not get off so badly after all, and I was very glad to think that
+the rosillo, whose back I had cured, was not among them. They all rode
+off, apparently satisfied, towards the Pass of the Pichinango, and we
+were all glad to see them depart. But it made me think, and realise what
+now might at any time happen, and I determined to have the rosillo
+caught up and tied in the courtyard oftener than I had done, and to keep
+a sharp look-out over "Carnival." At two of the puestos the shepherds
+were each somewhat of a character in their way. They were both of them
+"bascos," _i.e._, either natives of or having originated from one of the
+Bay of Biscay provinces in Spain. One of them, whose name was Gaitan,
+looked after what was known as the "Fine Flock," because it contained
+the highest strain of Negretti blood. From it were selected the male
+lambs, which were to be the future rams for the other flocks. He was now
+no longer in middle age, bent in figure, and slow in his movements. He
+lived quite alone, doing his own cooking and washing, and he wore
+remarkably old clothes. He had been for many years on the estancia,
+getting the usual pay of a puestero, viz., fifteen dollars and
+thirty-six cents per month (just over L3), together with his allowance
+of meat and rations, viz., farinha, yerba and salt, which he received
+monthly. His only luxury was a little tobacco, and he was said to be
+somewhat of a miser, and to be quite rich. He was usually seen
+bestriding an old and rather poor horse, but he was a very good
+shepherd, and except when cooking or eating his meals, or towards
+evening, when his sheep were drawing home, I never knew him to be long
+absent from his flock. He was extremely reserved and silent, and I
+always found it difficult to carry on a conversation with him. His
+puesto was situate to the north of La Concordia, rather towards the
+centre of the estancia, and really not very far distant from the
+former. The other shepherd was called Anjel; he was a much younger man,
+although he looked older than he really was. He, too, was reserved and
+silent, and I often wondered if it was the solitary life he led which
+tended towards this, and whether he would have appeared a somewhat
+different man if he had been cast among other surroundings. He had
+neither wife nor child, and like Gaitan, was but a poor rider, and I
+never saw him on a decent-looking horse. But he had usually a dog with
+him, and I often saw a cat or two when I visited his puesto, situate
+close to the river Pichinango, some little distance below the pass. Here
+the grass was good and plentiful, and his flock, which was rather a
+large one, did very well. He was a most careful and conscientious
+shepherd, and a skilled worker in wasca, or raw hide, of which he
+manufactured reins and headstalls, and whips and hobbles; indeed,
+everything of the kind a well-equipped horseman would require. Just
+about this time I did not happen to be very busy, so was able to shoot a
+few partridge, more correctly described as "quail," which were now in
+good condition, and made a pleasant variation in diet. There was a
+little single barrel gun available, which I found very nice to shoot
+with. I also managed to shoot some of the common deer of the Pampas
+(Cervus Gampestris) with my rifle, the flesh of which is not very
+appetising, but the skins were easy to dry and soften, and were not only
+useful as a covering for my "recado," or native saddle, but also served
+well as rugs for the floor of the sitting-room. The natives mostly chase
+the deer on horseback with dogs. There is a very curious peculiarity
+attaching to the young of this species of deer when not more than three
+or four days old, when the perfection of its instincts at that tender
+age seems very wonderful in a ruminant. When the doe with fawn is
+approached by a horseman, even when accompanied by dogs, she stands
+perfectly motionless, gazing fixedly at the enemy, with her fawn at her
+side. Then suddenly, as if at a preconcerted signal, the fawn rushes
+away from her at its utmost speed and, going to a distance of perhaps
+six hundred yards, conceals itself in a hollow on the ground, or among
+the long grass; lying down very close, with head stretched out
+horizontally, and will thus remain until sought by the dam. When very
+young it will allow itself to be taken, making no further effort to
+escape. After the fawn has run away the doe still maintains her
+statuesque attitude, as if to await the onset. Then, but only when the
+dogs are close upon her, she too rushes away; but invariably in a
+direction as nearly opposite to the fawn as possible. At first she runs
+slowly, with a limping gait, and frequently pausing as if to entice her
+enemy on, just like a partridge, duck, or plover when driven from its
+young. But as the dogs begin to press her more closely her speed
+increases, becoming greater the further she succeeds in leading them
+from the starting point. Truly a marvellous combination of both instinct
+and sagacity, and also of maternal love.
+
+Winter was now come, and we had a spell of cold and stormy weather, with
+a fair amount of rain. I was out in the camp and round the puestos
+pretty constantly, to see that the flocks were all right, and that there
+had been no trouble from soldiers. One afternoon I called at La
+Concordia to see Don Frederico, as I thought it advisable to have three
+of the flocks passed through the sheepyards, to part out sheep which did
+not belong to them, and have their feet attended to. This was necessary
+from time to time, as during bad and stormy weather a certain amount of
+mixing was apt to occur, however careful the puestero might be. It was
+obviously more difficult to prevent where the land over which one of
+the flocks was accustomed to feed lay in the same direction on the
+estancia, and not very far distant from the land occupied by another.
+Don Frederico told me he was making arrangements to send Mrs. Dampier
+and the children on a visit to England, and that he was already in
+communication with the shipping company about taking their passage. His
+idea was that they should go into Monte Video about a week before the
+steamer left, and that he would drive them himself in his own carriage
+with horses and a couple of servants, while their luggage could be sent
+in a cart to San Jose, and on from there by diligence to Monte Video.
+The visit to England had been thought of some little time, but, as,
+owing to the war, things seemed to be getting more and more unsettled,
+he thought it better not to delay longer than was necessary. He spoke to
+me about two or three matters needing attention, and said that Jennings
+would remain at La Concordia during his absence, and would help me in
+any way should anything of consequence happen, or an unforeseen
+difficulty arise. When I got back, I found old Robinson in a very
+unsatisfactory state; he had evidently got hold of some Canya, but how I
+could not imagine, as I always kept it securely locked up. He talked a
+lot of nonsense about being tired of life at the Cerro, and of his
+determination, although he knew he was an old man, to go off somewhere
+or other, he did not care where, with a view to bettering himself. I
+concluded this phase would be a passing one, and by next morning he
+would be himself again. However, when it came, he was both dull and
+disagreeable, and although he had always been subject to occasional fits
+of the kind, I felt that his present state of mental irritation and
+unrest really proceeded from something more than his having drunk a
+little more than was good for him. I enquired of the Indians if anyone
+had been to see him. Margarito had seen no one, but Justiniano said he
+had been looking up the "tamberos," and as he was riding back he saw
+someone in the distance come out of the door of the kitchen, mount a
+horse, and ride off towards the Pichinango; and he thought by the way he
+rode he looked like a "gringo," the native term for a foreigner.
+However, next day Robinson seemed better, and the little household
+disturbance for the moment at any rate passed over. At the end of the
+week seven Blanco soldiers rode up and asked for food and horses. They
+had evidently come a good distance, and were en route for Colonia. They
+had four tired horses, which they left with us, taking the two horses
+previously left by soldiers, and two of ours as well. However, they were
+quite civil, and one of them told me we might expect to have a good many
+more coming our way before long. "Carnival" and the rosillo happened
+both to be tied up in the courtyard, nor did they trouble the least
+about them. Old Juan, the Indian, mostly kept himself out of sight when
+soldiers arrived. I suppose he had a sort of idea they might take him
+off, as they probably would have done had he been younger. I noticed he
+was always very talkative, and apparently in extra good spirits when
+they had gone. After about a week the bad weather cleared up, and it set
+in fine and dry. I went down to La Concordia the afternoon before Don
+Frederico and the family were to leave for Monte Video. Everything was
+now ready; the luggage had been sent on two days previously, and they
+were to make an early start the following morning, which happened to be
+a Wednesday. It turned out a lovely day for the time of the year,
+continual sunshine, with a cool breeze, perfect for travelling. On
+Saturday I had our usual para rodeo of the cattle, and they came up
+well. Early on Monday morning I started on "Carnival" to ride down to
+the far end of the Swiss Colony, whence the land stretched away to the
+Estuary de la Plata, which divided the republic of Uruguay from that of
+Argentina. I called at La Concordia on my way, and had a talk with
+Jennings about the business I had on hand. My object was to see a man,
+Emile Gunther by name, who was a buyer of hides and sheepskins. We had a
+large number of these at the Cerro, and I was anxious to be rid of them,
+as they were apt to get damp and out of condition during the winter. I
+crossed the Pass of the Rosario below La Concordia, into the Colony,
+following the track which led out of it, gradually rising to higher
+ground. Every here and there "chacras," or farms, each surrounded by
+more or less cultivated land. Many of the houses were built of bricks,
+plastered and whitewashed outside, one storey only, with bright red
+tiles on the roof, and they usually had a wide open verandah, very
+convenient to sit in, and also to eat one's meals during warm weather.
+Each house seemed to have its garden, where vegetables did well, for the
+soil was good and easy to work, and it was rare to find one without a
+few flowers, while clumps of "eucalypti," the blue gum of Australia,
+planted either round or near the homesteads, were almost universal. The
+stables and outbuildings were mostly mud-huts, with roofs of "paja," a
+reed which was quite common, and very suitable for the purpose. All this
+was that part of the Colony which could be seen in the distance from La
+Concordia, where the original Colonists had first settled themselves
+down and made their homes. As I rode on, I came to a much wider track,
+with wire fencing stretched on wooden posts on either side, running at
+right angles to the one I had hitherto followed. Turning to the left, I
+rode along this in a south-westerly direction, and as I proceeded the
+farms got fewer, and further apart, while the land intervening was
+thickly covered by a shrub, with a small leaf, the knobby roots of
+which, when dried, made excellent firewood. Here cattle and horses could
+be seen feeding, for the soil was rich and fertile, and where the shrub,
+or "chirca," as it was called, was not too thick, good grasses grew in
+between. I had no difficulty in finding Senor Gunther's farm, which was
+quite an important one, for, in addition to land under cultivation,
+where wheat and maize were grown, there were two large "portreros," or
+paddocks, fenced in with wire, affording ample pasturage to a
+considerable number of stock. Trees of various kinds had been planted,
+including fruit trees, and were growing well. There was a little
+"monte," or wood of "eucalypti," and some were also planted on either
+side of the drive leading up to the house, forming quite a respectable
+avenue. The house was an "azotea," one storey high, with a flat roof,
+the rooms spacious and comfortable, overlooking on their further side a
+garden, with fruit trees and flowers. As I rode up, I was welcomed by
+the owner's wife and daughter, who told me he had only gone down the
+farm for half an hour, and would soon return. Meanwhile, they invited me
+to come in and sit down, shewing me where to tie up my horse. Senor
+Gunther, when he came, was a fine-looking man, above middle height, well
+set up, apparently about fifty. He looked shrewd and intelligent, with a
+pair of keen blue eyes and light hair, already beginning to turn a
+little grey. "Buen dia Senor" (Good morning, Sir) he exclaimed genially,
+as he came up to shake hands. "I have heard of you." "I, too, am equally
+pleased," I replied in Spanish. "What a nice situation you have, and how
+well the trees must have grown!" "Yes, indeed they have," he said,
+"considering the time we have been here." He said he had a number of
+milk cows, and had already made a fair amount of Swiss cheese, which
+sold well, and he had reason to think it would prove profitable, and
+hoped to increase it. He told me to unsaddle and turn out my horse into
+a small paddock close by, and invited me to stay and have some
+breakfast, which would be ready in half an hour. "After this," he said,
+"if you have sufficient time to spare, I would like to show you round
+the farm." Our meal was enjoyable, and he pressed me to drink some
+excellent muscatel wine of a rich golden colour, which he had himself
+purchased, and brought out from Monte Video. Coffee and cigarettes
+followed, and he had evidently become able to surround himself with an
+amount of comfort by no means easily attainable on some of the estancias
+outside. Of course, we discussed the war, and I then spoke to him as to
+the business about which I had come. Finally, it was arranged that he
+should purchase all the hides and sheepskins at the Cerro at the price I
+asked for them, and he was to send a cart and fetch them away in about a
+week. He told me they were fortunately situate in regard to soldiers,
+being out of their track, and that scarcely any seemed to come their
+way, nor did he think they were likely to unless anything unforeseen
+occurred. After a turn round the garden, he went and had a look at
+"Carnival," whom he seemed to admire. I told him I had brought him from
+the Sierras de Mal Abrigo, where he was bred and born, and that I was
+greatly afraid lest the soldiers should take him at the Cerro, as we
+heard so many were coming our way it seemed hardly possible he could
+escape. He then said if I cared to leave "Carnival" with him I was
+welcome to do so, and he would do his best to look after him, at any
+rate until the worst of the trouble we were looking forward to should
+pass over. I gladly accepted this offer, with very grateful thanks. My
+host suggested I should saddle him up now, when taking our turn round to
+farm, and then just have a look at the Piedmontese Colony, which was
+not far distant. He further proposed that on our return I could leave
+"Carnival," now he was here with him, and he would lend me a horse to
+ride home on, which could be brought back when he sent a cart for the
+hides, etc. I gladly agreed to this arrangement, and we made a start
+forthwith. A peon was ploughing on the arable land, using a somewhat
+heavy plough, drawn by a yoke of oxen. It was a slow business, but had
+the advantage of turning up the soil fairly deep. The milk cows and a
+small flock of sheep were feeding together in one large paddock, while
+some nice-looking young stock and the horses were feeding in the other;
+besides these was a small flock of fifteen goats, the milk of which I
+concluded was used in the manufacture of cheese. Near the house was the
+usual corral to shut up animals, and attached to the outbuildings which
+were roomy and convenient was a well-arranged dairy.
+
+We were not long in reaching the Piedmontese Colony, which at that time
+consisted only of one pulperia, or general store, and half a dozen
+houses, more or less near it. From there the land which stretched away
+towards the river Plate was mostly covered with "chirca," and evidently
+at that time but sparsely occupied. You could just see the smoke rising
+from the chimneys of perhaps a dozen mud ranchos, a considerable
+distance apart, evidently in possession of people only recently settled
+there, who as yet had not had time to do much in the way of agriculture.
+However, I was glad to have a chance of seeing the country, and I
+wondered as we rode back what kind of future might possibly lie before
+it. Returning to the house we had some coffee and little cakes served
+with it. Meanwhile, a chestnut was ready tied up, on which I was to ride
+home; not very attractive-looking, but good enough for the purpose.
+Indeed, in time of war I had learned that a good-looking horse was a
+certain care and an uncertain pleasure. So I bid good-bye to Senor Emile
+and his family, with many thanks for their kindness and hospitality, and
+the request that should he at any time find himself in the neighbourhood
+of the Cerro, he would not fail to call and see me. The chestnut
+travelled along quite comfortably, if not very fast, and the sun was
+nearly down when I reached home. The first thing Justiniano told me was
+that Robinson had departed. Two men from the stonemason's, who lived on
+the other side of the Pichinango, had come for him with a led horse,
+about the middle of the morning, and old Robinson had put together a few
+clothes and belongings and had accompanied them. The craving for drink
+had probably been his motive, for the stonemason himself was given that
+way, and at his house Canya was generally more or less on the go. Old
+Robinson had always kept up a sort of friendship with these people, much
+against my wish, for I prophesied they would one day be the ruin of him.
+However, the fact I had to face was that I was now without a cook, but
+Juan got me some coffee, and supper ready on the fire in the galpon,
+which I myself carried into the dining room, and then I smoked a pipe
+and thought over my pleasant day. Later I locked all up and went early
+to bed. Next morning, when I went out, "Napoleon" greeted me joyfully. I
+had left him at home the day before. The Indians got me some hot coffee
+at their fire, and after seeing to some things that were necessary, I
+saddled up the "mala-kara," or bay, with white blaze and stockings, and
+started off to La Concordia to consult with Jennings as to what I had
+better do in regard to Robinson's departure. I found him already busy in
+the garden pruning the fruit trees, and told him what I had arranged
+with Senor Gunther, and how I was now left without a cook. He said he
+thought the best thing was to leave Robinson where he was; it was no
+good attempting to fetch him back, as he would by this time probably be
+drunk and incapable, or, to say the least of it, very difficult to
+manage. He proposed to send me a nice-looking young Swiss, called
+Vicente, who was looking after the "capones," up to the Cerro, to take
+Robinson's place, and also keep an eye on the southdowns, and I could
+send Margarito down to La Concordia in his stead. Vicente was handy, and
+obliging, getting on for nineteen, nor would he at all object to doing a
+little cooking and housework if required. Jennings asked me to stay and
+have breakfast, which I did, and said he had received a letter from Don
+Frederico, written from Santa Lucia, saying all had gone well, and that
+so far they had travelled comfortably. We saw Vicente before I left; he
+had just come in from his flock. He said he would be pleased to go up to
+the Cerro, and would do his best to make things comfortable, and
+promised to be there a little before sundown. I then bid adieu to
+Jennings, and rode round by Anjel's puesto. He was out with his flock,
+and I came across him without having to go so far as his house. He was
+silent and serious as usual, but gave it as his opinion that Robinson
+"would come to no good with those people over there," and promised,
+should he hear of anything further happening, he would manage to let me
+know. When I got home, we got the "tamberos" up on to their rodeo. No
+one had arrived during my absence, and I sent Margarito down to La
+Concordia as arranged.
+
+Early in the following week, one morning just after ten o'clock, Colonel
+Medina rode up to the Cerro, accompanied by seventy Blanco soldiers. I
+had met him before, and Don Frederico knew him well, for he lived not so
+very far from the Pichinango, and we had always looked upon him more or
+less as a neighbour. I at once invited him to dismount and come inside
+and have breakfast, assuring him it would not be long before it was
+ready. As for the soldiers, I said they had better make a fire down
+below the house, towards the big "manga," and if one was not enough,
+they could make two. Meanwhile, I would have a couple of sheep killed,
+so that they could make themselves a roast, as they wanted, and I would
+send them down a supply of farinha, salt and yerba, in order that they
+might do what a native always dearly loves, viz., have a rest and suck
+Mate.
+
+The colonel was a man of middle height, his hair beginning to turn a
+little grey. I daresay he would be getting on towards fifty. He was
+well-educated, and had to a certain extent travelled, having held a
+minor office in the Blanco Government previous to the Flores war, when
+the Reds came into power. Probably, too, he looked forward before very
+long to taking office again, when the present revolution should be over,
+and the success of his own party assured. He told me he was on his way
+to Colonia, where a division of the Blanco army would probably be
+concentrated, to hold the province before very long, but that the main
+advance contemplated, whenever the proper time should come, was to lay
+siege to the city of Monte Video itself, and he believed it would be
+quite powerful enough to accomplish this when a really suitable
+opportunity should arise. This was certainly good news so far as it
+went, but at the same time he warned me that the war was as yet far from
+being over, for the Colorados were still fairly strong on the inside
+camps, especially in the direction of the capital, where they were able
+to command the assistance of both infantry and artillery and also, if
+necessary, that of mercenary troops as well. I was greatly interested;
+indeed, I felt quite sorry when breakfast was over, and the colonel said
+it was time to make a move. Neither he nor his soldiers asked for
+horses, having a troop of spare ones in first-rate condition, which they
+were driving along with them. We parted with mutual compliments, and
+with the usual "Hasta la vista amigo!" (Friend, until we meet again!),
+and he further told me that if he could do anything for me during the
+changes and chances of war-time, I was to be sure to let him know,
+which, to say the least of it, was very civil of him. The soldiers
+quickly marshalled up near the door leading out of the courtyard,
+through which he passed, and I accompanied him. He then mounted a grey
+horse, which was being held ready for him, and gave the word of command
+to go forward, and we all watched them jogging along towards the Pass of
+the Pichinango, when that little excitement was over. It came on to rain
+early in the afternoon, and we got the sheepskins turned over, and put
+together again, ready for the purchaser when he should think well to
+send for them.
+
+Early next morning the sun shone bright, and warm, but it did not last
+long, for a "pampero," or southerly wind, from the Pampas, blew up soon
+after mid-day, and towards evening it became very cold and
+stormy-looking. I was able to "repuntar," or turn inwards, the cattle on
+the northern boundary of the estancia, and also to visit three of the
+puestos, where I found everything all right. The following day a bad
+spell of weather set in, with cold winds and constant showers of rain.
+However, I kept on the move as well as I could, for it was in stormy
+weather that a little supervision was most needed. Vicente was an
+obliging young man, and did his best in his new occupation, and he made
+me a nice little fire in the gun-room stove, where it was comfortable to
+sit after supper, especially after having had a bit of a wetting
+outside. Jennings had given me two little bull terrier puppies. They
+were an amusing little pair about five months old, small in size, with
+all the characteristics of a bulldog, except that they were very quick
+and active on their legs. One I called "Bully"; he was the colour of
+yellow sand, and the other was a brindle, like its mother, and to him I
+gave the name of "Brag." As they grew up they hunted the "legatos," a
+very large lizard, who lived among the rocks, behind the house. They
+also went with me when I took a gun and went after a brace or two of
+partridge, and they joined joyfully in the general uproar and barking
+when any stranger rode up, or indeed near the house. This was so much to
+the good, as it lessened the chance of our being taken unawares as to
+what might be coming, always a distinct advantage in time of war. The
+rosillo had now quite recovered and greatly improved in condition, and I
+often had him tied up in the courtyard, where I gave him a little maize,
+which he had learned to eat with satisfaction. I was now able to ride
+him with my recado, as well as my English saddle, and I made up my mind
+to take all the care I could of him, for the more I rode him the better
+I liked him. After about a week the weather became fine, and I decided
+to ride in to the little country town of Colla, which lay some nine
+miles south of the river Pichinango, as I wanted to go to the "policia,"
+or police station about some business connected with the estancia. I had
+intended to put off going until Don Frederico's return, as I rather
+wished to see him before doing so. However, as I understood from
+Jennings it was more than likely he would not be able to come home so
+soon as he expected, I decided to delay no longer, but to start early
+the next morning. I did not want to take a good-looking horse, for I
+knew the town would be full of soldiers, so I told Justiniano to have
+the horses in the corral in good time, and to catch me up rather an
+oldish bay, left by soldiers, nothing whatever to look at, but really a
+good deal better horse than he appeared, and also to tie up the rosillo
+in the courtyard, about eleven o'clock, so that he might be safer if
+anyone came. The little town of Colla lay pleasantly situate on the bank
+of a small river. It consisted of one main street, with houses unevenly
+built, and somewhat scattered on either side. About half way down this
+widened a little, forming a small plaza, or square, where a band played
+on summer evenings, and people walked round and round, or sat about and
+listened to the music, and enjoyed also the pleasure of looking at their
+neighbours. There was a Roman Catholic Church, and some rather
+sordid-looking barracks, and quarters for soldiers. Half a dozen
+pulperias, and general stores, and two or three "fondes," or second-rate
+hotels, with here and there a private residence, often enclosed inside a
+garden, completed the buildings of any importance, while stretching away
+behind these, on either side were the smaller houses and ranchos,
+occupied by natives, more or less of the working class. Some of these
+had spaces of cultivated ground attached, and at others two or three
+cows and a horse or two, and some poultry would be kept, just as
+happened to be most convenient. There were plenty of soldiers about in
+the streets, as well as in the cafes and fondas. I rode straight up to
+the police station, and it was not very long before I was able to
+conclude my business. Having done this, I did not go to an hotel, as I
+should otherwise have done, to put up my horse and have some breakfast,
+on account of the soldiers, but I made my way to the house of a man
+called Pedro Dominguez. It was next to a large general store, which he
+owned as well, where he carried on an extensive and profitable business,
+as a buyer of produce and a seller of merchandise, and had long had
+dealings with the Estancia Pichinango. He received me with courtesy. A
+man below the middle height, getting on in years, and somewhat bent in
+figure, he looked to me as much like a Portuguese as anything else.
+"Buen dia, Senor," he said, as I rode up and explained who I was.
+"Please come inside, and I can put up your horse in my stable."
+Moreover, he invited me to have some breakfast, which was very good of
+him, for I began to feel hungry after my ride. His house was
+comfortable, and he had a good sized garden attached, very well kept,
+and he told me he was a great lover of flowers. While we were enjoying
+our meal one of the black, hairless dogs, greatly esteemed by natives,
+trotted into the room. It was about the size of a small terrier, with a
+perfectly smooth black skin, entirely devoid of hair. It had a pointed
+nose and a pair of very bright eyes, and they are said to be very
+affectionate. Senor Dominguez told me he had a widowed daughter and a
+grandchild who lived with him, but just then they were away on a visit
+to friends in Colonia. Of course, we talked about the war. He said he
+had never taken any part in politics, but his sympathies were with the
+Blancos, and he was very glad to think that for the present Colla at any
+rate, had seen the last of the Colorados, who he believed as a
+Government were self-seeking and corrupt, and he felt sure if they were
+allowed to continue in power, would bring certain ruin on the country.
+We had some coffee and a cigar, and it was after two o'clock when I
+saddled up the bay, and with many thanks for his kind hospitality,
+started on my return journey. The old horse travelled back faster than
+he had come, and I reached the Cerro somewhat earlier than I expected.
+As the sun declined, it got quite cold, and I was glad to find a fire
+lit in the gun-room stove to welcome me. Justiniano had got up the
+"tamberos" on to their rodeo, and the southdowns were already shut up in
+their yard, as I rode up to the house. "Napoleon" was delighted to see
+me, and even "Brag" and "Bully" gave me a sort of welcome in their way.
+I let go my horse, and wrote up the log-book, and so ended what had been
+quite an agreeable day. I had the usual "para rodeo" on Saturday, which
+was quite satisfactory, and I saw reason to think we were now getting
+the cattle well in hand. This was important during time of revolution,
+when we were likely to have fewer people to look after them. On the next
+Tuesday morning, I had just got in from a turn round the puestos, when
+the cart arrived to take away the hides and sheepskins. The Indians gave
+the cartman some breakfast in the galpon, and we then counted and handed
+over the hides and skins, for which the cartman gave me a receipt, while
+I handed to him a certificate that we had sold them. He started for home
+about one o'clock, taking with him the chestnut horse, which Senor
+Gunther had lent me to ride home on. The cartman told me that "Carnival"
+was all right, and seemed quite happy in his new quarters. The middle of
+the following week Don Frederico returned to La Concordia. I rode down
+to see him, and he said he could hardly believe he had been away nearly
+a month. The fact was his family did not leave for England in the
+steamer he intended, but waited for the next one, and he naturally
+wished to see them safe, and as comfortable as might be on board. I told
+him about old Robinson, and he said the arrangement we had made would do
+quite well for the present, though later on he should want Vicente back
+at La Concordia. Meanwhile, however, I could look about and see if I
+could find a cook. The winter was now passing, and every now and again
+we had two or three days when the sun would be quite warm, with every
+sign of approaching spring. We saw but few soldiers, and they were only
+passers-by, anxious to reach the end of their journey as soon as might
+be, but we had every reason to believe a considerable movement of troops
+would take place before very long. Early in August we had begun to see
+symptoms of what is known as epidemia, or sickness among the cattle. At
+first a single animal would be found in the camp dead, looking in good
+condition, and from no apparent cause. Later two or three might be seen,
+and in different parts of the estancia. Then you would find here and
+there an animal looking young and even fat, standing by itself, away
+from the others, not moving or eating, and with obviously something the
+matter with it. If taken in time and got to move quickly, and the
+horseman could give it a sharp run, it would probably recover. Should
+it, however, have gone too far, all one could do was to kill it, and
+take off its hide, rather than let it lie down on the ground and die
+slowly by inches. The epidemic went on for some little time, and we lost
+a good many cattle, and curiously enough it was much more towards the
+Cerro end of the estancia than it was at La Concordia. During this time,
+I was constantly out in the camp, looking up sick animals, and I took
+Juan and Justiniano with me, to take off the hides when necessary.
+Towards the end of the month I was out with the latter having a look
+round, and we came across a cow evidently very bad, for it could hardly
+stand on its legs and, when I tried to move it, it seemed only to totter
+from side to side. I jumped off my horse, handing the reins to the
+Indian, and caught hold of its tail with both hands to pull it over. I
+pulled my hardest, when the hair came suddenly out of the tail, and
+before I could recover myself I fell sideway into a bunch of big
+thistles which stood near. Unfortunately, I fell right among them, and
+felt one of the stiff sharp thorns pierce the flesh on the inside of my
+left arm, just below the elbow. I turned up my sleeve and tried to get
+it out with my knife but was unable to do so. We killed the poor cow,
+and I left Justiniano to commence taking off the hide while I rode back
+to the Cerro and sent his uncle Juan to help him. I then had another try
+to get out the thorn, but could not manage it. I bathed it with hot
+water, and as it was getting a bit painful, applied a hot poultice and
+hoped for the best. September came in fine, and towards noon the sun
+began to feel quite warm. At the beginning of its second week,
+twenty-two soldiers rode up, and said they wanted horses. I saw they
+meant business, so I told Justiniano to get all our horses into the
+corral. I had the rosillo saddled in the courtyard, so he was all right,
+as it was unusual for soldiers to take a horse one had saddled, except
+for some special reason, or because they really wished to be as
+disagreeable as they could. They were travelling out north, and were
+evidently pressed for time. They took six of our horses, including the
+"manchado," which had caused the death of the poor young Englishman, and
+left us one, an old bay, and he looked a very poor one. However, there
+was no alternative, so we had to put up with it, but it gave me a
+reminder of what we had to expect. The two colts we had tamed, now
+well-behaved horses, they paid no attention to whatever, and for this I
+was glad. My arm had become swollen and inflamed, and continued to give
+me a good deal of pain, and I was obliged to have it in a sling. It was
+rather a nuisance, for it was my bridle hand, but I consoled myself by
+thinking had it been my right arm it would have been worse, and as it
+was I could get about as usual. One fine morning, about eleven o'clock,
+an old negro woman rode up to the Cerro mounted on a rather thin
+"gatiado," or drab-coloured horse, with a dark stripe down its back,
+from which is derived its name. She had a maiden with her, black, like
+herself, mounted on an old grey. Each had a rug thrown over her horse,
+made fast with a surcingle, on which she sat, and appeared quite
+comfortable. The old lady asked me if they could stay for a while, and
+have a rest before proceeding on their journey. "By all means," I
+replied, and told Juan, who happened to be about, to give them a couple
+of bancos, or stools by the fire in the galpon, and I also asked them if
+they would like anything to eat. "Pero con mucho gusto, Senor," "But
+with great pleasure, Sir," they replied, "and if you could kindly give
+us a little yerba and sugar we should greatly enjoy drinking Mate, for
+we both feel very thirsty." Juan soon made up a good fire, and put on
+the kettle for hot water, and gave them a piece of meat to roast, and
+some "farinha," and the ladies seemed quite happy. Later on, as I was
+passing out through the galpon, the old one came up to thank me for the
+hospitality we had shewn them. "But pardon, Senor," she said, "may I ask
+what is the matter with your arm, for I see you have it bound up. I
+myself am a 'curandera,' or healer, and I am on my way to see a man who
+is very ill. Please let me have a look at it." This I gladly did, and
+she told me it was the thorn still in it which was causing the trouble,
+but she hoped it might work its way out. She said I must take care of
+it, as my arm looked to her rather as if it had been poisoned. She
+further said I was to send one of the Indians down to the wood which
+bordered the bank of the river Pichinango, and he was to get the leaves
+of a certain shrub which grew there. I was to make these leaves into a
+poultice and put it on my arm as hot as I could bear it every night for
+about a fortnight. Further, I was to put the water in which the leaves
+were boiled into a jug and drink it cold each morning as soon as I
+awoke. She interviewed both Juan and Justiniano and made them clearly
+understand what was the shrub the leaves of which were to be brought:
+what it was like, and how and where it grew. She then explained to
+Vicente exactly how to make the poultice, and how much of the leaves to
+use at a time. Then came the curious part of the would-be cure. The old
+lady insisted that I should begin it on the first evening of the new
+moon, and at no other time but then. We were all somewhat impressed, the
+Indians very much so, for they looked up the "curandera" with a certain
+amount of superstitious awe. However, I determined to try the "remedio,"
+and as there happened to be a new moon that evening I sent Justiniano at
+once off to the Pichinango to find the leaves. He returned with a good
+supply of them. It was a small leaf, a little larger than the ordinary
+tea leaf, and it reminded me very much of the leaf of a small tree known
+as the "manouka" tree, of New Zealand. So the poultice was duly made;
+the water in which the leaves were boiled was put ready to drink the
+first thing next morning, and forthwith the prescribed treatment began.
+A few days passed, when one morning, between seven and eight o'clock
+fifteen soldiers rode up and demanded horses. The tropillas had not long
+been turned out of the corral, so our horses were quite close for the
+soldiers to see. There was nothing for it but to shut them in and let
+them take what they wanted. I did the best I could, but they took four
+and left one, an old gatiado, with a stripe down its back, the same
+colour as the one the curandera had ridden. The soldiers only stayed
+long enough to get horses, and then resumed their journey, travelling
+north. The weather was now getting warm, when one afternoon about four
+o'clock, an elderly negro rode up to the Cerro, mounted on a very
+poor-looking old "bayo," or cream-coloured horse. The Indians, who had
+been out in the camp, were sitting by the galpon fire, sucking Mate. I
+was in the courtyard unsaddling the rosillo, whom I had been riding,
+but not far away. I heard a great barking of dogs, "Napoleon's" voice
+being loud among them; "Brag" and "Bully" were also doing their best to
+increase the noise. I passed out through the small door, and there was
+an old man, surrounded by the barking dogs, sitting quietly on his
+horse, calling out "Ave Maria," the customary form of salutation, and
+waiting for someone to ask him to dismount. This I did, and he enquired
+if here was the Cerro del Pichinango, and if I would allow him to put up
+in the galpon for the night. As for his horse, he said it was worth very
+little, and if let go he did not think it would move far away. He looked
+tired, and weary, as did his steed, and said what most he needed was a
+real good sleep. He had a bundle with him, tied up in a roll at the back
+of his old "recado," a battered black felt hat and a much-dilapidated
+summer poncho, while some old "bombachos" and a pair of alpargatas, or
+canvas shoes, completed his attire. I told him to make himself
+comfortable, and left him to rest as I was just thinking of saddling up
+the bay colt we had tamed, and riding down to Marmasola's puesto. I
+found his flock quite near it, ready to be shut in for the night. He
+himself was at home, and he told me that a soldier who had passed by not
+long before had told him there had been an engagement some distance out
+beyond Guaycoru, and that the Blancos had been victorious, and had
+driven the Reds off in full flight to the north of the Sierras de Mal
+Abrigo, and so on towards the province of San Jose. How far this was
+really true, and whether it was an affair of much importance he did not
+know. He thought, however we should all do well to be on the alert, and
+promised to send me up word should he hear any further news. Everything
+seemed quiet as I rode back: the epidemia among the cattle was now dying
+out, and there was only an isolated case now and then, and I was
+thankful to think we had been able to get through the trouble so easily.
+
+My arm by this time had become less inflamed, and much less painful, so
+I thought it better to go on with the treatment for a few days longer
+than the "curandera" had suggested. When I saw the negro again next
+morning he told me he had slept well, and felt all the better for it. He
+told me he had passed through a rough time with General Lopez Jordan up
+in Paraguay during the war between that country and Brazil. Having
+drifted down into Uruguay, he found himself with hardly any money, and
+no friends. Had it not been time of revolution, he did not doubt but
+that he could easily have got work. He said his nerves had been
+completely shattered, and what he wanted was a feeling of security and a
+little rest. He asked me if I would allow him to stay on a bit at the
+Cerro, as he liked the look of the place, for you had a good view all
+round, and could see anyone who might be coming. He said if I would
+permit him to stay he would be glad to do anything he could to make
+himself useful. I thereupon asked him if he would act as cook. "Pero con
+mucho gusto," "But with great pleasure," he replied. When I next saw Don
+Frederico he said I had better arrange with the negro, whose name was
+Correo, to do the cooking, and such housework as had to be done. Vicente
+could then come back to him, as he needed him rather badly. He also told
+me I had better take a little boy about twelve years old, a grandson of
+the old Indian, Feliciano, to help to look after the southdowns, and to
+look up horses, as otherwise I should find myself short-handed. He was a
+funny little person, with a pair of sharp-looking black eyes. His father
+was said to have been killed in a quarrel during the war, and although,
+of course, a relative of Justiniano, he had every appearance of mixed
+blood. Correo seemed very pleased at the prospect of staying on at the
+Cerro, and settled down quite comfortably. He kept the rooms clean and
+tidy, and could cook anything that was required. For the next ten days
+or so we had sheep-working on hand, and I was kept pretty busy; and we
+had the regular para rodeo of the cattle on Saturday as usual, which was
+now quite easy to manage.
+
+A few days later, I started to ride over to an estancia belonging to a
+Mr. Trafford, which lay beyond the town of Colla, well on towards
+Colonia. My object was to see some rams we needed for the Fine Flock,
+and which Don Frederico had heard were for sale there. I rode a dark
+chestnut horse, which had been left tired and almost done up by
+soldiers, but had now recovered. I preferred taking him to a horse of
+our own mark, as I thought it quite possible I might have to pass
+through the Blanco lines. Should this be so and they took the chestnut
+they would probably give me another in exchange which would do to bring
+me home. I was up early and in the saddle just after sunrise. It was a
+nice morning, and the chestnut was in good spirits, and went along
+smoothly and easily. When I reached Colla I found the place full of
+troops, so did not delay, but rode straight on and beyond, being asked
+as I passed the Police Station who I was, and where I was going. No one
+interfered with me. I stayed that night and over the next day with Mr.
+Trafford, who was very kind and hospitable. He had no one with him when
+I arrived, for his daughter, not yet grown up, was away at school in
+Buenos Aires. His house was comfortable, well-built, and well-arranged,
+with a very wide verandah on one side of it. He saw me ride up, and came
+forward to welcome me, a thin, tall man, with a somewhat serious
+expression, which made him look older than he really was. He kept up the
+English custom of having tea in the afternoon about four o'clock, with
+bread and butter, cakes, jam, etc., which to me were quite a luxury.
+After partaking of this, I had a look over the rams, which were then in
+a large paddock not far from the house. They were a nice lot, well cared
+for, and in good condition, and on hearing the price I came to the
+conclusion they would be just about what Don Frederico required. So I
+arranged provisionally to buy twenty of them, and to pick out the ones
+we would have in the morning; this arrangement being subject to Don
+Frederico's approval. I further proposed he should write to Mr. Trafford
+immediately after my return, and so complete the purchase, and then we
+could send over to fetch them, as might seem convenient. The following
+day I much enjoyed as we rode over the estancia, and inspected both the
+sheep and cattle, for, as a matter of fact, Mr. Trafford had, for that
+time, some exceptionally good stock. He took great interest in his
+garden, which appeared well-stocked with both flowers and vegetables,
+and his numerous fruit trees were evidently a source of great pleasure
+to him. Next morning, after coffee, I saddled up the chestnut and
+started for home. On my way back I passed close to a place where a
+Spaniard, who was really a "basco," was driving a good sized flock of
+sheep up towards his house. A nice-looking sheep-dog, which looked well
+bred, was helping him very efficiently. I pulled up for a while to give
+my horse a rest, and I took a great fancy to the dog, for I liked the
+way he went about his work. We were getting a bit short-handed, and I
+thought a dog like this one would be useful, so I made his owner a bid
+for him, just in case he might care to part with him. Rather to my
+surprise, the man said he would not mind selling him, but only because
+he contemplated leaving where he was to go and live in a town, where the
+dog would be no use to him. The only condition he made was that I would
+be kind to him and treat him well. He was black and light tan in colour,
+and the true sheep-dog breed, with a nice head and intelligent eyes. The
+only fault I could see in him was he had rather too heavy a coat for
+work in hot weather. His name was Ramonou. He did not at all like being
+taken away from his home by a stranger, and I was obliged to lead him
+with a thin thong of hide, fastened to his collar, which I held in my
+hand. Fortunately the chestnut was very quiet and tractable, but having
+the dog with me naturally delayed my progress, so that it was late when
+I reached home. However, there was a moon which shone brightly, so it
+did not much matter. "Napoleon," as usual, was glad to see me back.
+Nothing had happened during my absence, and Correo soon got me some
+supper, and seemed quite contented and happy. Next morning "Ramonou"
+seemed none the worse for his journey. I had tied him up for the night
+and given him some food, and I now let him loose in the courtyard, just
+to stretch his legs. "Napoleon" was not at all quarrelsome, and the two
+dogs happily took to each other, and soon became great friends. I had
+the bay horse caught up, and started down to La Concordia, as I wished
+to lose no time in letting Don Frederico know what I had arranged about
+the rams. He was perfectly satisfied, and said he would at once write to
+Mr. Trafford. He told me he had heard that old Robinson was lying very
+ill over at the stonemason's, from the effect of too much Canya, and he
+went so far as to say he was doubtful if he would recover. "You know we
+should not like him to die over there," he said; "after being so many
+years at the Cerro, we had come to look upon him as almost part of the
+place!" "Supposing I send Steff, the Swiss peon, with a light cart to
+be at Anjel's puesto, say at eleven o'clock to-morrow morning. You might
+then send Juan and Justiniano to meet him there at that time, and they
+could all three go on together to the other side of the Pichinango. If
+there is plenty of 'paja' in the cart and he is well wrapped up, I do
+not see why he should not travel all right." So it was arranged; and I
+promised to see that the Indians were at the place appointed at the hour
+named. As a matter of fact, they both rather liked old Robinson, and
+would be sorry for him being so ill, and I felt sure they would do their
+best to bring him back with as little suffering as possible. I then rode
+back to the Cerro, round by Anjel's puesto.
+
+When the cart arrived at the Cerro with the poor old man lying full
+length in it, I saw at once that he was very ill. We got him out of the
+cart and into the kitchen, where we laid him down in front of the fire
+and started rubbing his hands and feet, for he really seemed in all but
+a comatose condition. After a while he somewhat recovered, and I got him
+to swallow two or three spoonfuls of mutton broth made strong and quite
+plain. Towards evening he seemed better, and said he wished us to get
+him up into his bedroom above the kitchen. He could not speak above a
+whisper, but I understood him to say he felt cold, and would rather be
+in his own room above the kitchen stove than in one of the larger rooms
+on the ground floor. For two or three days he seemed to mend, and then
+one afternoon he sank into an unconscious state, and I knew it would not
+be long before all was over. He could take nothing whatever, but he
+lasted through the night, and passed peacefully away about eleven
+o'clock next morning. I sent down at once to tell Don Frederico, and he
+sent me word he would have a shell coffin sent up as soon as possible.
+During the afternoon we got the remains down from the bedroom and laid
+them on a "quatre," or wooden camp bedstead, in the last room but one at
+the far end of the house, which had a door in it, opening into the
+courtyard, covering the body over with a white sheet. Late in the
+evening the wooden shell arrived, and we reverently laid him in it. I
+put a couple of screws in half way down, just to hold on the lid for the
+time being. The Indians said they would light a candle and watch by the
+coffin, and Correo said he would like to take a turn also. It was a fine
+clear night, calm and still, with the moon now in its second quarter,
+and about nine o'clock I went to bed. I was awakened some three hours
+later by a loud knocking at my door. I jumped up, hastily putting on
+some clothes, and took up my revolver, which was lying by my bedside.
+When I opened my door, leading into the covered archway, there was
+Correo, his face an ashy grey colour, gesticulating violently outside,
+and begging me to come at once to the room where we had placed the
+coffin. He said the Indians who had been on guard were terribly
+frightened, because while they were on watch the ghost of the "finado,"
+or dead man, had appeared, and was then to be seen passing like a shadow
+up and down the room. As I went out into the courtyard "Napoleon" came
+and put his cold nose in my hand, and the rosillo who was shut in there
+for the night, gave a little neigh. I went to the door, opened it, and
+entered the room, followed by the negro, who was almost in tears. Of
+course, there was nothing, and I showed him the two screws half way down
+in the lid, exactly as we had left them. Meanwhile the Indians had fled
+and hid themselves in the galpon; the candle they had left lighted was
+flickering down in its socket, and the room was in semi-darkness. I with
+difficulty persuaded Correo to go to his bed and have a sleep, for he
+was much upset, and trembling all over, but at last I succeeded. I
+thereupon locked the door of the room, taking the key with me, and
+returned to my bed for the rest of the night, which passed without
+further disturbance of any kind. The next morning, but one, Steff drove
+up in his cart with the coffin, into which we silently placed the
+remains, and he started at once to convey it to the cemetery in the
+Swiss Colony. At the same time I rode down to La Concordia to advise Don
+Frederico that it was on its way to its last resting place. When I got
+there I unsaddled my horse and tied him up under the euremada before
+going inside the house. A little later I was sitting in the dining room
+talking to Jennings, when Don Frederico came hurriedly in. "Good
+gracious!" he said, "there is Steff crossing the rincon towards the Pass
+of the Rosario standing up in the cart and trotting ever so fast. Do go
+down and stop him, and tell him only to go at a foot pace." A "moro
+rosillo" (blue roan horse) was standing ready saddled outside. I jumped
+up on him and went down the high bank behind the house somewhat faster
+than he liked. He started bucking as he got nearly to the bottom, and
+what with being taken unprepared and only having my right hand on the
+reins, I narrowly escaped what might have been a nasty fall; but I was
+able to stop the cart before it crossed the pass. I returned to the
+house, and shortly afterwards Don Frederico started to go to the
+cemetery in the Swiss Colony, in order to attend the funeral, while I
+rode up to the Cerro, as some sheep-working was going on there I wanted
+to see after. Ramonou came and helped, and soon proved himself useful in
+getting the sheep through the yards. We were now in the first week of
+October, and as work of this kind would be pretty constant throughout
+the month it seemed as if he had arrived on the scene just about the
+right time. One morning I was busy superintending this work; the weather
+was becoming hot, and progress somewhat slow. Before going to breakfast,
+I went to my room to wash my hands; my arm had now got much better, the
+inflammation and swelling having gone. I had turned up my shirt sleeve,
+and was rubbing the soap gently between my hands, when a thistle thorn
+half an inch long suddenly popped out of my arm, somewhat in the same
+way as a cork flies out of a bottle, and fell into the soapy water. By
+its appearance it should have been a larger thorn, so that part must
+have broken off when it entered the arm. Anyway, I was only too glad to
+be rid of it, for it might easily have caused me more trouble than it
+had done, and I felt thankful to the "curandera" for the advice she had
+given me. The thorns of the big thistle are very sharp and strong, so
+much so that when riding through them I have known a thorn pierce right
+through a long leather riding boot.
+
+The spring had so far been a dry one, and we were looking forward to
+soon beginning the shearing, partly because the season was an early one,
+and also on account of the difficulty of getting shearers. Soldiers were
+everywhere more or less on the move, and on an estancia this is always a
+hindrance to work of every kind. Saturday came round again with its
+"para rodeo" of the cattle, and on Monday morning, between ten and
+eleven o'clock, thirty soldiers arrived asking for food and horses. They
+were travelling north to join the main army. I had a sheep killed for
+them, as they said they were hungry, and gave them some farinha and
+yerba, and I ordered our horses to be got up into the corral; it was, in
+fact, the only thing to do. They ended by taking thirteen horses, six of
+our own mark, including the brown colt we had tamed, and seven which had
+been left with us by soldiers, among them the chestnut I had ridden
+over to Mr. Trafford's estancia. They left us five, apparently tired
+out, and weary, and all in poor condition.
+
+I had the rosillo saddled; indeed, I now had him up very constantly,
+letting him out to feed at night. Our own horses were gradually
+disappearing, and I saw it would not be long before we ran short of
+them. We were now busy getting ready for shearing, and I had to go round
+to all the native neighbours and find out how many and when they would
+be likely to come. This year, owing to the scarcity of outside people,
+it seemed probable that more of our own people would have to shear than
+usual. Meanwhile, Don Frederico was doing all he could in the Swiss
+Colony, although as a rule the colonists were not great shearers, for at
+that particular time their own farms often needed attention. I had the
+stone walls of the sheepyards attended to, and saw to the gates, and
+also that the doors and belongings of the galpon were all in proper
+order. I also had an ample supply of wood brought up from the Monte, the
+necessary provisions had to be got ready as well as numerous other
+articles, all of which were sure to be wanted at such a busy time. On
+November 1st a small gang of nine shearers arrived. They had been
+previously engaged, and commenced work on the following day. Meantime,
+Jennings duly turned up at the Cerro to take charge inside the galpon,
+while I looked after matters outside, and also helped him in my spare
+time. It was not long before we found out how useful Ramonou could make
+himself. He helped to get the sheep through the yards, and also to hurry
+a flock from one of the puestos, which otherwise would have come too
+slowly, and so kept the shearers waiting for sheep. The weather favoured
+us--for the month proved warm and exceptionally dry, so work got on
+faster than it could otherwise have done. Soldiers called up half a
+dozen at a time, but no large number came to trouble us, for which we
+were very thankful. Pedrito now kept an eye on the southdowns, and also
+got up the horses, for both old Juan and Justiniano took a turn at
+shearing, although neither of them were very efficient.
+
+Work progressed as the days passed, and time went on, so that by the end
+of the first week in December, we made a finish, and the gang of
+shearers having received their money, at length took their departure. No
+sooner was shearing over than we had to see about marking the calves.
+This should have been done earlier, but perhaps owing to the same causes
+which had produced the epidemia the cattle this spring had been in
+rather poor condition, and the calves generally both younger and weaker
+than usual. The third week in December began on a Wednesday, and Don
+Frederico fixed that day for the marking. I went round to let our native
+neighbours know, and asked them all to come and help. Fortunately, the
+morning was fine, and we were all on the move at the Cerro even earlier
+than usual. I rode a black horse with a white star and two white hind
+feet. Pedrito was quite proud of himself, mounted on a small bay which
+had been left tired by soldiers, but had now recovered. He was a good
+rider, inherited no doubt from his Indian ancestry, and he never pulled
+his horse's mouth about more than was necessary. As it happened,
+although we were fewer horsemen than usual, the cattle came up well, and
+we left them to go round and round on the rodeo while Don Frederico and
+Jennings came up to the Cerro to have some coffee which Correo had ready
+for us. I let go the black horse and saddled up the rosillo, and on
+returning to the rodeo was pleased to find that several of our native
+neighbours had arrived. With the aid of a point of tame cattle to lead
+them, we got the herd shut up in the manga, and I felt relieved to
+think that my responsibility was now over. Two large fires were lit, and
+the brands heated, and then two of our native neighbours rode in among
+the cattle to lasso and bring out the calves. And so the work
+progressed, until about eleven o'clock a halt was made for breakfast.
+Seeing we depended so much upon the help of our native neighbours, Don
+Frederico said we had better regale them with what was known as "Carne
+con cuiro," or beef roasted in the hide. So a young cow had been killed
+and cut up in a much shorter time than the uninitiated would deem
+possible, and two big roasts with the hide on them were already cooking
+before the fires. This above everything is a delicacy the South American
+native dearly loves, and Pedrito's face was a picture when he learnt
+what was going to happen. Canya, farinha, salt, and yerba were served
+out, and the company were all enjoying their repast when a horseman
+appeared approaching, perhaps two hundred and fifty yards away. As he
+got nearer I saw he was riding a colt, known as a "redamon," _i.e._,
+only about half tamed, with a piece of hide tied round its lower jaw,
+instead of a bit, and as he rode on towards us the animal, a beautiful
+"rosillo," answering the slightest touch of the rider's hand on the
+rein, he was indeed a sight to see. His long black hair well oiled and
+curling beneath a worn and battered old felt hat, fell almost down to
+his shoulders. Over a shirt anything but clean was a dilapidated old
+summer "poncho," with a rag of a white handkerchief tied loosely round
+his neck. An old worn coloured "cheripa," over a pair of cotton drawers,
+covered his waist and the upper part of his legs, and below were a pair
+of potro boots, made of the skin of a wild mare, from which the hair had
+been removed; mounted with a pair of large iron spurs, completed his
+footgear. As he rode among the crowd, he raised his hat above his head
+with a "Buen dia Senores" (Good-day, gentlemen) as he sat on his horse
+like a statue waiting to be invited to dismount. Then came a cry from
+the assembled company, "Cypriano caramba! Cypriano!" but the tribute was
+certainly not to his wealth, nor indeed, to his character, for he was a
+well-known horse stealer, as well as a famous "domador," or horse-tamer,
+but rather a spontaneous and unpremeditated recognition of his wonderful
+horsemanship. This touched the hearts of the "Gauchos" as nothing else
+could have done. In spite of his rags and his dirt and his poverty, he
+was to them a true aristocrat, rising for the moment head and shoulders
+above his fellows; for such, indeed, at that time, was the way and
+custom and manner of the "Pampas."
+
+Breakfast being finished, work was resumed. By three o'clock the marking
+was over, and the herd of cattle let go, when, owing to the times
+through which we were living, the company at once dispersed. The weather
+continued hot and dry right into the New Year, when I found the water in
+the alhibi, or reservoir in the courtyard was becoming exhausted. As I
+have previously stated, all our water came from collecting the rainfall
+on the roof, whence it passed through pipes into the "alhibi." Usually
+the supply was sufficient, but probably the water had been used in
+excess and wasted during the shearing, and as no rain had fallen now for
+some weeks, it was easy to account for the shortage I wished to preserve
+what there was for the house, and indoor use; so we caught up an old
+petiso called Waddle, and Justiniano mounted him and made fast his lasso
+to the forked branch of a tree with a barrel fixed on its top, and
+started for the Canyada Grande to fetch water. He did not go very fast,
+for Waddle had seen much of life, and had an enlarged knee; but he had
+done the job before, and he did not mind. I daresay, too, he knew by
+experience it was not likely to last very long. So with the daily barrel
+brought up each morning, we managed to get along quite comfortably. As
+to the stock, they always had plenty of water, with the river Rosario on
+one side and the river Pichinango on the other, not to speak of the
+Canyada Grande, which was hardly ever dry; nor, indeed, had they to go
+any distance to drink. Of course the "seca" had its effect on the
+pasture, and the grass everywhere got very dry. Where, however, the camp
+was not overstocked, and there was good water, the animals could pass
+through time of drought without coming to any harm. One morning Pedrito,
+who had been out on an old horse looking after the southdowns, came back
+and said he had seen an ostrich nest with several eggs in it, which he
+thought were still quite good; so I sent Juan with him to fetch them.
+There were seven, and they turned out to be but recently laid. The
+female bird will lay her eggs out in the open, choosing a place where
+the grass is long and dry, and well exposed to the sun. The yolk is
+somewhat rich, both in taste and colour; but when fried in a frying pan
+or made into an omelette is excellent eating. One of his other pastimes
+was going after partridges also on horseback, holding a long stick in
+his hand, at the end of which was fastened a thin running noose. When he
+saw a bird lying in the grass, which they were fond of doing during hot
+and dry weather, he would ride round and round in a circle, gradually
+getting nearer and nearer, until he could drop the noose over the head
+of the bird as it lay still, as it often would do for some time. Correo
+could cook both the ostrich eggs and partridge very well, and I found
+them a pleasant change after a prolonged course of mutton roast and
+boiled. During hot weather he often wore a beautiful suit of white
+cotton; he had two of these with him, and when he brought in my meal to
+the dining room he would occasionally stand behind my chair, in a solemn
+manner while I was eating, which certainly looked imposing, for his
+black skin shone like ebony, but was at the same time quite unnecessary.
+He did not much like talking about his experiences during the war in
+Paraguay, which I always realised had given him a pretty severe shock,
+for he told me he had passed through villages where not a single man had
+been left alive, and where a stranger entering them would find himself
+surrounded by only women and children, all of whom were in a state of
+semi-starvation, and of abject terror and misery. All the crops and
+animals had been destroyed by the troops as they passed, and there was
+nothing suitable in the way of food anywhere within reach. I liked the
+old man, whom I always found very willing and obliging, and I was glad
+to see his health improve, as it certainly did, doubtless owing to the
+rest, and quiet, and to freedom for the time being from any care or
+anxiety as to where or how he could get a living.
+
+The New Year came in exceptionally hot; day after day brought continual
+sunshine from a blue sky, in which scarcely a cloud could be seen.
+Towards mid-day the rays of heat poured down so fiercely, they seemed as
+if they would scorch the very tussock grass itself. The rocks behind the
+house fairly glistened and shimmered in the noon-tide glare, and the
+large lizards were very happy, constantly running in and out of their
+holes, and indeed had a glorious time. Out in the camp, the ground
+itself got warm, and everything dried up. The cattle could be seen here
+and there in groups; by this formation they seemed to think they might
+escape the burning rays of the sun, and it was in the night and early
+morning, as well as late afternoon, that they were able to feed in
+comfort. They went gladly enough to the rivers to drink, but they could
+not stay long by the woods on account of the number of flies which were
+ever ready to pester and torment them, until they hardly knew how to
+bear. The sheep, also, could be seen clumping themselves together, each
+trying, as it were, to get shade by standing in each other's shadow.
+
+If the pasturage on the estancia was hard and dry, there was yet plenty
+of it, and as there was abundant water I had no fear of anything like
+starvation for the stock. During the great heat the "siesta" in the
+middle of the day had to be longer than usual, and practically all work
+was suspended, except during the early morning and late afternoon. The
+rooms, however, were very comfortable during hot weather, for being so
+high, and opening one into another, there was always plenty of air, even
+when the heavily-barred windows were, according to the Spanish custom,
+kept shut during the middle of the day in order to keep out the heat. We
+had no garden to suffer, and were thankful for the grateful shade of the
+"ombu," and also of the figtrees in the courtyard, so that, except for
+the want of water, we had little to complain of during the period of the
+"seca." Curiously enough, during the great heat we had no thunderstorm,
+the atmosphere remaining perfectly clear and dry. This, however, was
+quite unusual.
+
+One morning, not long after sunrise, two Blanco officers, and about
+eighty soldiers rode up to the Cerro. They said they were en route for
+Colonia, and had been travelling the greater part of the night, taking
+advantage of a nearly full moon. I invited the two officers into the
+house to have some coffee, but before accepting, they said what they
+wanted were horses, for many of those they had with them were tired, and
+it was important they should get on with as little delay as possible. I
+asked if the soldiers wanted food, but all they were allowed to do was
+to make a couple of fires and suck some Mate, before proceeding on their
+journey. As to the horses, there was nothing for it but to get all our
+horses up into the corral--they had not long been let go--and let the
+soldiers take what they wanted. There were now but few of our own mark
+to choose from; the others being horses previously left with us.
+However, they took seventeen and left us twelve tired ones, poor in
+condition, and not one of them looking as if he was much account. As it
+happened, the bay colt we had tamed was with his mother and the
+wall-eyed horse I often rode, and old Waddle some distance further away.
+So these did not come up with the others, thus the bay colt once more
+escaped attention. I had the rosillo tied up and saddled, and Pedrito
+was riding the little "mala kara," so he got off, but a very light bay
+horse, called an "andador," or pacer, which Justiniano was fond of
+riding, was one of the first chosen by the soldiers. The officers told
+me they were going to join a large division of the Blanco army, now in
+the province of Colonia, which was thought likely to be moving in our
+direction, and it was supposed General Aparicio himself was coming down
+shortly just to see how things were going. The officers were quite
+civil, but when they were gone, and I had time to think matters over, I
+realised that this hardly compensated for the fact that we had now
+hardly any horses of our own mark left to us. Such, indeed, was so often
+the fortune of those whose business it was in "the old days" to try and
+carry on an estancia during time of revolution.
+
+On January the twentieth, we had three or four very short and slight
+showers, and on the day following, heavy rain fell and continued without
+intermission for twenty-four hours. The "seca" had now broken up, the
+"alhibi" was more than half full, and we had no further trouble in
+regard to water. Soon after two o'clock on the last afternoon in the
+month, a party of soldiers rode up, and one of them, who appeared to be
+their leader, told me I was to go with them to where a division of the
+Blanco army was encamped, some two and a half leagues to the south-east
+of the Cerro. As they seemed to attach importance to the request, I did
+not care to quite refuse or indeed argue the point as to whether I
+should go or not. Moreover, I thought it would be an experience, and
+possibly somewhat of an adventure. As it happened, I had caught up the
+rosillo a short time before, intending to take a turn round the camp. I
+told them I would be ready in a quarter of an hour, saddled him up,
+strapped the belt of my revolver round my waist, slipped a light summer
+poncho over my head, and we made a start forthwith. Meanwhile, the
+Indians had hid themselves in the galpon, and I bid adieu to Correo, who
+looked greatly perturbed when he saw me depart. We travelled rapidly
+along, for something over an hour, and then, as I looked ahead, I saw an
+interesting scene spread out before me. In a large "rincon," at the back
+of which was a stream, lightly bordered by trees, were quite a large
+number of soldiers. Horses were either feeding loose or tethered
+everywhere. The men were scattered about in every sort of attitude and
+position, mostly resting and smoking, and some enjoying a game of cards,
+while others were chatting and talking together, and apparently enjoying
+themselves. Meanwhile, fires had been lighted in front of which large
+joints of meat were already roasting. A little to the right, half a
+dozen "Gauchos" were busy giving some colts they had got hold of a
+gallop, which, from their appearance, had only been recently caught up.
+Behind all these, on slightly rising ground, a group of officers were
+gathered. One of these was seated on some rugs and saddle gear, which
+had been piled up for the purpose, and he was at the time occupied in
+sucking Mate through a silver "bombilla," or tube. He was a remarkable
+looking man, somewhat above middle height, with rather broad shoulders,
+over which his long hair hung down in a slight curl at the back, swarthy
+in complexion, with a very keen-looking pair of black eyes. I realised
+at once that I was in the presence of no less a personage than General
+Aparicio himself. Meanwhile, he invited me to dismount, and asked me who
+I was, and where I had come from, and what had brought me there. When I
+told him, he said, "This ought not to have happened! There must have
+been some mistake!" Then he continued, "Siente se Senor," "Sit down,
+Sir." "Vamos a tomar un matecito," "Let us drink a little Mate." In the
+meantime, a soldier was holding my horse, and behind where we were
+sitting, two lances were stuck in the ground, from which the white
+banner was flying. The General's sharp eyes caught my horse. "That
+little rosillo seems made of some good stuff," he said. "You had better
+take good care of him." I told him he had the mark of the Estancia
+Pichinango, and was about the only one we had left. "Pero que quiere mi
+amigo? Es tiempo de guerra." ("But what could you wish, my friend? It is
+time of war,") he replied, with a laugh. The General then told me that a
+good many matreros (deserters from the army) and bad characters, were
+said to be hiding in the woods our way, and that he would send a couple
+of soldiers with me when I went back, who could also stay at the Cerro
+for a time, in case I should find myself in any trouble. Thereupon I
+thanked him, and about half an hour later made my adieux. As I left the
+camp the two soldiers rode in front of me, each carrying his lance,
+with the white banner flying, while I followed immediately behind. Upon
+reaching the Cerro, which we did just after sundown, I got quite a
+reception from Correo and the Indians, in which "Napoleon" and
+"Ramonou," also "Brag" and "Bully," took part, in fact, they all
+appeared quite relieved, and very pleased to see me back again. On the
+next morning, I rode down to La Concordia to see Don Frederico. He was
+greatly amused when I told him of my little expedition, and at once
+asked me if I thought the Blancos were likely to be coming our way. I
+told him I thought not, as from what I had gathered their intention was
+to make straight for Colonia across country, as it were, without
+touching the town of Colla, in which case they would not be likely to
+come near the Pichinango. He further said the two soldiers who had come
+back with me would be a help rather than a hindrance, for he had been
+wondering how we could manage to get the horses all gathered up into the
+"manga" this year, and the foals marked, seeing there was hardly any
+outside person available. He said that now I had the two soldiers, who
+doubtless understood camp work, at disposal, he would arrange a day to
+gather up the horses, with as little delay as possible, and let me know.
+I could then inform our native neighbours, and possibly succeed in
+getting a certain amount of help. I rode back by Marmasola's puesto, and
+told him if he knew of anyone likely to be of any use, to be sure and
+let me know. That same evening, a little before sundown, a young
+Englishman, Mr. Frank Turnor, arrived, with three horses and a peon. He
+was "Major Domo" on a large English estancia up the country, and he
+asked if we could put him up for the night. This I was delighted to do,
+and we had the horses collared and sent out to feed. He was a
+fine-looking young man, with broad shoulders, and a tall, upright
+figure. We were sitting smoking after dinner, when the conversation
+turned upon "matreros," men wanted by the police, hiding in the woods,
+whereupon he told me the following story. He said where he was living
+they had large woods bordering the river, in which "matreros" would come
+and stay for a time, living on the estancia cattle, and then move off
+again to other secure places, where the police could not catch them.
+They were a desperate lot, and murdered one of the shepherds of the
+place because he mended up the fence after they had cut the wires, so as
+to pass backwards and forwards, which was a cause of annoyance to them.
+He said it was his business, together with two men, to search the woods
+every Saturday to see if they were there, as they always left some trace
+or other, such as the remains of food or tracks of horses. Both he and
+his men always carried rifles, but he was never very keen about finding
+the thieves, as they were known to be very dangerous characters. A new
+Chief of Police had come, whose ambition was to catch these men. Knowing
+the outlaws were in the woods, he thereupon notified him, and the police
+officer appeared early one Sunday morning with ten men, all fully armed,
+when he at once went with him to show more or less where the matreros
+were to be found. On the way they met a half Indian man called the Negro
+Largo, who in peace time was allowed three sheep a week to keep him from
+stealing, and in time of revolution forty dollars a month to save the
+horses; as the Indian then had some thirty men under his command. He
+went on to say that as he and the Negro Largo knew the woods, they were
+asked to go quietly ahead, so as to try and find the encampment, the
+police following.
+
+At last some horses were seen tied out near some little "talditos," or
+coverings made of branches, but all was quiet; it was very hot, and the
+thieves were sleeping. He and the Negro Largo then returned to the
+police, without disturbing the sleepers. Turnor wanted the "comisario"
+to charge right up on horseback, but being an infantry officer, he
+preferred to do so on foot. So after approaching a little nearer he
+ordered his men to dismount and form line, and himself heading them with
+drawn sword, charged up to the place where the horses were tied. Owing,
+however, to the noise caused by dismounting, etc., the outlaws, hearing
+what was going on, made a bolt into the thick wood, so that only the
+horses, saddles, etc., were captured. He further mentioned that he and
+the Negro Largo were not in the charge, but behind a tree watching.
+
+The police officer was intensely proud of his achievement, and at once
+ordered one of the best looking horses to be saddled up for him. When he
+mounted, however, the horse reared, and coming over backwards, gave him
+a bad fall, much to the general amusement.
+
+Turnor said that this was his only encounter with the "matreros," but
+that some time after two of the men with rifles who were revising the
+woods as usual came right upon the outlaws over a bank, with their
+horses saddled. Instead of trying to escape they at once mounted and
+attacked them, firing their pistols, when they on their part being taken
+by surprise, made a bolt of it, and being better mounted succeeded in
+getting safely away. Eventually all the outlaws were captured and put in
+prison.
+
+It was getting late when we turned in, but as Turnor wished to make an
+early start on the morrow, I had already told Correo to get some coffee
+the first thing. Fortunately, he was always an early riser. The morning
+was fine, and the sun had but lately risen, when my visitor and his man
+mounted their horses and started on their way, the latter leading the
+spare horse, so that either could change to it as they went along.
+
+During the afternoon Margarito arrived with a note to say that we were
+to have a "para rodeo" of the cattle on Saturday as usual, and a general
+gathering up of the horses on the Wednesday following. I therefore lost
+no time in advising our native neighbours, and getting them to come and
+help us. To make this doubly sure I rode next morning to pay a visit to
+two or three of the principal ones in person. Both the soldiers
+accompanied me with their lances, and the Blanco device on their hats
+and the white banner flying. When I arrived at the first native house I
+saw at once that I was about to make an impression. I thought the dogs
+barked if anything louder than usual as we sat on our horses calling out
+"Ave Maria," the usual form of salutation. For the moment no one
+appeared, but I saw signs of first one and then another woman or child
+peeping out through a window and so on. Then the front door was opened,
+and the master of the house appeared bare-headed, and with a bow
+desiring me to dismount. Whereupon I did so, and went into the house,
+the two soldiers meanwhile holding my horse outside. I delivered my
+message, and we discussed the war, and I was invited to have some
+refreshment, which I declined. When I thought sufficient time had
+elapsed I got up to leave, being accompanied outside by apparently the
+whole family. I then walked solemnly to my horse, mounted and signed to
+the two soldiers to move on, and altogether I flattered myself that I
+made a very dignified departure. The same mode of procedure took place
+at two other houses, each with the same satisfactory result. The fact
+was, we were getting very short of horses in our neighbourhood, and as
+hardly any of these people, friendly as they might appear on the
+surface, would have at all objected to coming inside our camp and
+picking up and carrying off any stray horse which, having been left
+there, would otherwise have proved useful to us, I thought it a good
+opportunity to let them know that, up at the Cerro I was in a position
+of some authority, and therefore not to be trifled with. On the Saturday
+the two soldiers went with us to the "para rodeo" of the cattle;
+"Napoleon" enjoyed himself greatly, and all went well.
+
+Wednesday morning was fine, and we were all early on the move. I rode
+the rosillo, who was in excellent form, while the two soldiers and the
+Indians were mounted on horses which had been left by passing soldiers.
+As we got the troop up towards the "rodeo" a portion of them tried their
+utmost to break back, but the rosillo was quite equal to the occasion;
+he was indeed a good little horse, and his speed and energy soon
+succeeded in rounding them up and forcing them to rejoin the others, so
+that we managed to get them all shut up in the stone "manga" with less
+difficulty than I had expected. Our native neighbours duly turned up,
+fires were lighted, and we were able to mark quite a fair number of
+foals. We also picked out about a dozen stray riding horses from among
+the troop, which had probably been left by soldiers as they passed
+along. These we divided between the Cerro and La Concordia, attaching
+them to the tropillas, in order that so long as they remained to us they
+might be made useful, and earn their living for the time being. Don
+Frederico was mounted on his rosillo allazan (chestnut roan), otherwise
+known as his war-horse; but Jennings no longer rode his usual dark grey,
+for it had been taken by soldiers about a month previously, so he was
+compelled to bestride a rather ancient-looking bay horse, which was also
+in but poor condition, instead.
+
+At the beginning of March the two soldiers were recalled to Colla. When
+they bid us adieu they both thanked me for the pleasant time at the
+Cerro, and when they departed took with them our good wishes. Towards
+the end of the month, Charles Bent turned up quite unexpectedly. His
+relatives outside had been unfortunate, and had lost a lot of stock,
+both sheep and cattle, during the war, and his idea was to make his way
+to Monte Video later on, for he seemed to have a hope that the war would
+soon be over. He had lost his race-horse not very long after the
+disastrous affair at the Cerro, now getting on for a year and a half
+ago, and he rode up on an old "Bayo Negro," or dark cream, with a black
+mane and tail, which had been left by soldiers, and seemed to be of very
+little account. I was glad to see him again, for I always liked him.
+Moreover, he did not look very well; he was never really strong, so I
+asked him to stay on a bit at the Cerro, as we had ample room, and I
+knew he would be glad to help in any work which had to be done. With the
+exception of the rosillo, we were entirely dependent upon what I might
+call outside horses, for we had now scarcely one of our own mark left.
+The bay colt old Juan had tamed, was still with us, but he had managed
+to sprain his shoulder rather badly, so was for the time being of no
+use.
+
+We had a room at the Cerro with a strong brick floor, which had at one
+time been used for stores, and I had this arranged for the rosillo, so
+that in case of necessity he could be shut up there at night. Generally,
+when the weather was fine, I could have him tied up in the courtyard,
+but when the nights got cold and he was unable to feed there, I knew it
+would be difficult to keep him in good condition. As it turned out, I
+found that the shelter from wind and rain, together with a small but
+regular allowance of maize, greatly contributed to his welfare. When I
+next saw Don Frederico I spoke to him about Charles Bent, and he said
+he should be very glad for him to stay on at the Cerro for he knew he
+would always willingly lend a hand at any work which might be going. He
+said he thought he would be much better there than if he were to go into
+Monte Video at present, as it was generally believed by those who knew,
+that before very long the Blancos intended to try and besiege the city,
+and if they should do so would probably succeed. During the next three
+weeks we had a good deal of sheep-working on hand, as the flocks from
+the puestos were being passed through the sheepyards, both at the Cerro
+and at La Concordia. Ramonou was really a great help; he was obedient
+and good at his work, and gave satisfaction all round. Bent had left his
+sheep dog, "Bob," with his relations. He told me it was some time since
+he had heard of Royd, but he believed he had sustained many losses with
+his stock at his friend's place near San Jose, and that he either had
+sailed or was about to sail for England. At this I was not surprised,
+for he never seemed to me well suited to camp life. He was naturally
+somewhat despondent, and there was no denying he had been very hard hit
+at the Sierras de Mal Abrigo.
+
+Correo seemed now to have recovered his health and spirits, and to enjoy
+preparing our simple menu. He was always willing and attentive; indeed,
+since his arrival at the Cerro, everything inside the house had gone on
+quite comfortably.
+
+Some three weeks passed and nothing happened except the ordinary routine
+of estancia work. During this time either Bent or I had been accustomed
+to go up on to the flat (azotea) roof once or twice daily with the
+glass, so as to have a good look round. The Cerro stood high, so that
+from its roof we could overlook the greater part of the estancia. This
+was a distinct advantage in times like the present, for it not only let
+us know anything that might be going on among the stock, but also
+allowed us time to prepare beforehand for any soldiers who might ride up
+to the house with the intention of causing us trouble. One afternoon
+Bent and I were up on the "azotea" together, having a look round with
+the glass. It was just about two-thirty when suddenly we saw some twenty
+soldiers coming our way from the East, at an angle which would make them
+pass to the front of the Cerro, about half a mile distant. We could,
+moreover, see they were Colorados, for the red banner was clearly flying
+from their lances. At the same time a troop of Blancos appeared, coming
+up from the Pass of the Pichinango, so that the two parties came into
+collision just about the place where Tio Benigno's deserted puesto still
+stood. We could see it all perfectly. They galloped furiously one toward
+the other two or three times, but seemed always to manage to avoid close
+contact. They fired their guns and revolvers, some of the shots at any
+rate being hurriedly let off into the air. Then the Reds made a bolt,
+and thereupon the Blancos, seeing this, galloped furiously after them,
+with their lances. One of the Reds was wounded by a shot, for we saw his
+arm hang useless by his side as he rode away. Another got a lance wound
+in his back, which was apparently more serious, as he fell from his
+horse after the Reds got a little further away, and had to be picked up
+by his comrades. So the Blancos remained masters of the situation, and
+after the Colorados had disappeared, they passed the Cerro at a gallop,
+about a quarter of a mile distant, following a northerly direction, as
+if they were making for Guaycoru, and we were all very glad to see both
+lots clear out. Some ten days later we were both up on the "azotea,"
+about an hour before sundown. After taking a look round, I said to Bent,
+"Do you see that point of cattle feeding almost at the same place where
+the Blancos and Colorados met? And can you see a dark lump on the
+ground, a little way removed, just on the far side of them? If I am not
+mistaken that is a matrero, out 'bombiando.' You know what that means,
+'looking for and marking down a young heifer, so that he and his
+companions can come and kill it at night,' and there will be a moon
+to-night up to twelve o'clock, you know!" "I believe you are right,"
+replied Bent. "Have a look through the glass. I fancy you will find that
+animal standing alone a little further away to be a horse saddled, and
+he is probably hobbled as well." Taking the telescope, I soon saw this
+to be the case. "I will give that fellow a bit of a fright," I said, at
+once going down into the courtyard, where I had the rosillo ready
+saddled. It took but a moment to lead him out through the small door,
+jump on his back, and gallop off. I had not got more than half way, when
+the matrero, who must have seen me coming, ran to his horse, mounted,
+and made off towards the woods of the Pichinango as quickly as he could.
+The rosillo was going strong, and I should certainly have overtaken him,
+when an unfortunate thing happened. The ground was very rough and
+uneven, with numerous pieces of pointed rock rising up above it in every
+direction. The horse unluckily caught his off fore foot on one of these,
+and as he was going fast, it tripped him up, and he came down a regular
+cropper, rolling right over. I, of course, came down with him, having my
+revolver tightly held in my right hand, fully loaded, the trigger at
+half cock. When I fell it somehow got jammed between me and the hard
+ground, with the end of the barrel against my chest, slightly bruising
+the flesh. Fortunately, it did not explode! It was a Colt's muzzle
+loader, and I felt grateful to them for its reliability and their
+excellent workmanship. I remounted, and continued the chase, but the
+delay gave the man too much of a lead, and I only arrived in time to see
+him enter the woods and disappear. Bent seemed quite glad to see me
+return without any further mishap, and when I explained to him how I
+came to have the tumble, which he had been able to see with the
+telescope from the house, he remarked, "That revolver of yours is indeed
+worth more than anything it may have cost, old man!" This pleased me,
+for as a matter of fact, I had bought it second-hand, when I was at the
+Sierras de Mal Abrigo, upon its eminent firm of maker's reputation,
+knowing otherwise but little about it. Bent and I then got up the
+"tamberos" to their rodeo. They were now well in hand, and went up
+easily. As we returned, Justiniano was bringing up the southdowns, to
+shut them in for the night; I looked them over, and saw them safely
+inside their yard. Correo was always pretty punctual with supper when we
+were at home, for he was glad when work was over and he could retire to
+rest. Afterwards we had a quiet talk and a smoke, and both went early to
+bed.
+
+A week later we were both on the "azotea" about four o'clock in the
+afternoon. A Mr. Fenton, who had formerly stayed a good deal at the
+Cerro, had left his "moro," or blue-grey horse behind him when he went
+away, attached to one of the tropillas. The horse was not there when I
+came, having detached himself, and joined up with the "saino manada," or
+troop of mares and foals. We had not been looking round long when I
+noticed a horse coming at pretty nearly full speed in the direction of
+the Cerro, with two soldiers in full pursuit. "I believe it is Fenton's
+'moro,'" I said to Bent, "and what is more those two fellows are going
+to have him." Just then the "moro" passed, some three hundred yards
+distant, in front of the house. One soldier flung his "boleadores," but
+as it happened they fell short. The second thereupon immediately
+increased his speed, and flung his with such accuracy that they twisted
+themselves round the "moro's" hind legs, and soon brought him to a
+standstill. The soldiers then slipped a halter over his head, loosed the
+"boleadores" from his hind legs, and led him off with them, riding in
+the direction of the Pichinango Pass.
+
+The "boleadores," or "bolas," as they are often called, are a very
+effective weapon in the hands of a skilled horseman who is well mounted.
+They are chiefly used to capture horses and wild mares in the open camp,
+and are a very important part of a "Gaucho's" equipment. They are made
+of twisted strands of raw horse-hide. There are three thongs united
+together at a common centre, each about a yard in length. At the other
+end of each thong is a leaden ball, covered with hide. The horseman
+holds one ball in his right hand while he swings the two others quickly
+round his head. He then lets go the ball he had in his hand, so that the
+three go whirling swiftly forward in a circle, and their weight and
+impetus causes the thongs to twist themselves round the hind legs of any
+horse at which they may be aimed, which, chiefly owing to the speed at
+which it is moving, soon finds itself with its hind legs tied up
+together, and so falls helpless to the ground.
+
+Much smaller balls fastened together in the same manner, with quite thin
+thongs, are used by the natives to capture the wild ostrich.
+
+Indeed, I have always been given to understand that the "boleadores"
+were in use among the Indians of the Pampas from quite remote times. A
+few days passed, and nothing happened, and then one morning just after
+ten o'clock a Blanco officer and between seventy and eighty soldiers
+arrived, who asked for food and horses. Accordingly I had two sheep
+killed, and gave them what else they required, and told them to make a
+couple of fires outside, over which to roast their meat and boil their
+kettles. As to horses, I told them we had none left, only a few more or
+less useless ones, which had been left by soldiers. As, however, they
+said they had four tired ones which could go no further, I sent Pedrito
+to bring up what we had into the corral, so that they could suit
+themselves, for under the circumstances it was the only thing to do.
+Finally, they took five and left their broken-down ones in their place.
+So we were not much worse off after all. The rosillo I had saddled, and
+regarding him they gave me no trouble whatever, so I really had cause to
+be thankful, for I particularly did not wish to lose him. We invited the
+officer to come in and have breakfast. He was a good-looking man, not
+more than thirty years of age. He told us they had come from the north,
+and were going to join their division near Colonia. He said the main
+White army was now very strong indeed, and it was their intention before
+long to push right through the province of San Jose, where they expected
+to easily drive the Colorados before them, and then to besiege Monte
+Video, thus stopping all supplies coming in from the interior. Should
+they succeed in carrying out their intention, which he fully believed
+they would do, we might have reason to hope the war would soon be over.
+In due course, the soldiers having refreshed themselves, took their
+departure, proceeding at a "trotte-cito," or jog-trot, towards the Pass
+of the Pichinango, the officer riding in solitary grandeur behind. One
+afternoon in the middle of the week following, Bent and I were up on the
+azotea taking a look round. We had not been there long when we saw
+something which looked like a man on horseback going slowly, leaning
+forward in the saddle, with his arms resting upon the horse's neck. He
+seemed to sit more or less helpless, and the horse, which was
+three-quarters of a mile distant, appeared to be making his own way,
+having come from the East, behind the Cerro, towards the road which led
+from it to La Concordia. I sent Justiniano, who had a horse saddled, to
+see if anything was amiss, and if so, told him to bring the horse and
+rider back with him. This he did, and the latter turned out to be a
+Swiss, weak and faint from loss of blood. We got him off his horse, and
+carried him into the galpon, where we laid him on a "quatre," or light
+wooden bedstead, and I then managed to pour a little Canya and water down
+his throat, for, as we lifted him from his horse, he had suddenly
+fainted. After a few moments he came round, and told us he was coming in
+from outside with a considerable sum of money on him. Suddenly three men
+appeared, whom he took to be "matreros," or deserters, for they had no
+device on their hats, although all were armed. They compelled him to
+hand over all the money, his poncho, spurs, and silver-handled whip,
+even to a large gold ring which he wore on the fourth finger of his
+right hand. They threatened to cut his throat if he made any resistance,
+and as it was he had a deep wound from a stab with a knife, just about
+the middle of the forearm, inside and below the elbow of the bridle
+hand. This had evidently bled profusely, and was even then bleeding, and
+it was clear the poor man had lost a good deal of blood. He thought the
+wound must have been made when one of them was taking the ring from his
+finger. However, Bent and I managed to improvise a small tourniquet, and
+so get pressure to bear, which easily controlled the bleeding. We then
+bound up the arm with a cold water bandage, and made the man as
+comfortable as we could. Correo made him some "bouillon," and when he
+had taken this he soon sank off into a doze. About an hour and a half
+later he woke up, feeling better, whereupon we readjusted the bandage
+and enquired his name and address, and where his home was situate in the
+Swiss Colony. I told him to make himself as comfortable as he could
+during the night, and early in the morning I would send a messenger to
+advise his friends what had happened, so that they could bring a light
+cart to fetch him, for he was too weak to ride. I told Justiniano to tie
+up a horse and start as soon after daylight as he could, taking at the
+same time a note I wrote to Don Frederico, telling him what had
+happened. This Justiniano could leave at La Concordia as he passed,
+without really going out of his way. Meanwhile, old Juan said he would
+keep an eye on the man during the early part of the night, and advise me
+if anything went wrong. Bent and I then turned in, feeling pretty sure
+that if the Swiss could get some sleep he would probably be better in
+the morning. Fortunately, this turned out to be the case, although the
+patient was still very weak. About ten o'clock a friend and a relation
+arrived in a light covered cart, with a straw mattress and suitable
+coverings. We carried the Swiss, and placed him carefully in the cart,
+it was evident he had received altogether a great shock. I gave his
+relative a written statement of what we saw; how we had found him; and
+what we had done, so that if necessary it could be shewn to the police,
+and I said I was prepared and willing to answer any further enquiries.
+They soon made a start, and this little excitement was over. May was now
+well advanced, and sheep-working among the flocks, which had been pretty
+constant, was drawing to its close. One morning, towards the end of the
+month, Bent and I rode down early to La Concordia, where the fine flock
+was to be passed through the yards. The work made good progress, so that
+we were both back again at the Cerro a little before twelve o'clock.
+When I saw Correo he told me a Swiss baker had called during our
+absence, on his way outside with bread, and that he had bought three
+loaves from him. We were glad of this, as being a pleasant change from
+the "galleta," or hard camp biscuit. According to our usual custom, we
+were both again up on the "azotea" about four o'clock in the afternoon.
+
+Everything seemed quiet, but we had not been there long before our
+attention was arrested by what looked like a covered cart slowly
+crossing the camp, about a mile and a half away, in the direction of the
+Canyada Grande, opposite to Laborde's puesto. Every now and again it
+seemed to stop, and the two horses, which we could see were drawing it,
+appeared to be grazing. Altogether, it gave us the impression that
+either there was no driver in the cart, or that if one was there, he was
+either drunk or incapable. I then decided to send Justiniano to see what
+was the matter. He had the bay colt his uncle had tamed saddled, whose
+shoulder was even yet not quite sound. I told him if he found anything
+wrong to make his lasso fast to the horses, and so bring them cart and
+all, up to the Cerro. By this time, from Correo's description, we had
+identified the cart as belonging to the Swiss baker, who had passed in
+the morning. Of course, it was possible that he had somehow got
+separated from his cart, which was now moving towards home without him.
+Meanwhile, we watched Justiniano reach the cart, get off his horse, and
+go round to the back to look in behind. He then came round and made fast
+his lasso to the horses' heads, remounted, and made start with the cart
+in tow in the direction of the Cerro. All this we could see quite
+clearly through the telescope. When he arrived, I went down to meet him,
+and Correo and Pedrito and uncle Juan were all in attendance. I saw at
+once from Justiniano's countenance, that something serious had happened.
+Our consternation may be imagined when he told us that the body of the
+baker was lying inside the cart, and that he was quite dead, with his
+throat cut from ear to ear. How he had come to his death we were unable
+to form any idea. We could only suppose that two or three "matreros" had
+come across him in the open camp, far from any dwelling, and that they
+had done the dastardly deed from sheer devilry. The poor man apparently
+had no revolver or weapon with him in the cart; if he had one it had
+been taken away, neither was there any sign of shots having been fired
+at him; nor was either of the horses in any way maimed or injured. In
+fact the whole thing was a complete mystery. Correo and the Indians
+seemed greatly impressed. Naturally, the former could identify the body
+and the cart as being that of the man from whom he had bought the three
+loaves of bread in the morning, but beyond that there was nothing
+whatever to point as to how the tragedy had come about. Inside the cart
+was indeed a sickening sight. The loaves that remained, and the floor of
+the cart, were covered with blood. I took a note of all the gruesome
+details, and then we got the body out of the cart, and laid it on a heap
+of sheepskins inside the galpon, and covered it over with a white sheet.
+When I first saw it the body was quite cold, and probably the poor man
+had already been dead for more than two or three hours, for already the
+arms and legs had begun to get slightly stiff. By the time all this was
+done, it was getting dusk. The sun had already set, so I postponed
+sending down to the Swiss Colony to convey the sad news until early the
+following morning.
+
+Soon after sunrise Justiniano started, and I told him to call at La
+Concordia on his way back, and tell Don Frederico what had happened.
+About ten o'clock two men arrived, who took away the cart and the
+remains. I made out a written statement of the whole affair, so far as
+we knew about it, and were concerned in it. This I signed and dated, and
+got Bent to witness. I then gave it to one of the two men, who turned
+out to be a relation of the "finado," or deceased. In the afternoon I
+rode down to Marmasola's puesto. He had just returned from Solarez's
+pulperia on the other side of the pass. He told me he had heard that a
+large division of the Colorado army, with infantry and artillery, was
+coming up to turn the Blancos out of the province of Colonia, and that
+there was pretty sure to be a battle very shortly. Hearing this, I rode
+on to La Concordia to acquaint Don Frederico, who said it was just about
+what he expected, and we had better be on the alert, and keep a sharp
+look-out. I then went back to the Cerro, and we got the "tamberos" up on
+to their "rodeo," and I saw the southdowns safely shut in, and by the
+time I had unsaddled and put the "rosillo" into the stable, it was
+already sundown. Next morning we were all early on the move. We
+carefully shut all the doors and entrances to the galpon, and so far as
+we could made all fast. We looked to our firearms, and had our long
+ladder which reached to the roof of the house, carefully concealed in
+the galpon, so that no one could get up there from outside; in fact, we
+prepared everything to make as good a defence as we could in the event
+of our being attacked.
+
+Next morning, after all our preparations, everything appeared quiet, but
+about three o'clock in the afternoon we heard the constant firing of big
+guns out towards Colla, although, by their sound, we were able to tell
+they must have been a good long distance away. The firing continued
+intermittently until sundown. We spent the afternoon on the roof, which
+we could reach with the small ladder inside the house. Nothing happened
+during the night, but half an hour after sunrise the first signs of the
+battle which had taken place began to show themselves. First a small
+party of Blanco soldiers were seen crossing the estancia at a gallop
+from the Pass of the Pichinango, shaping their course straight for the
+Sierras de Mal Abrigo. These were followed by others and by single
+soldiers, galloping for all they were worth. Then, later on, came the
+main body of the Blancos in full flight. Stretching in a long uneven,
+but continuous line, they passed about two hundred yards in front of the
+Cerro, the wounded in carts without springs, drawn by horses, and what
+looked in some cases like half-tamed mares, were continually passing, to
+which any amount of whip was forthcoming to make them move. Early in the
+day none of the soldiers came up to the Cerro, but about three o'clock a
+light cart, with a canvas covering, drove up to the house, with three
+horses attached to it. A negro, who sat in front with a whip, which he
+evidently had made good use of, was driving. In attendance were two
+soldiers, with their lances, and fully armed. They told us that a
+wounded colonel lay inside, who was in great pain, so much so that he
+could with difficulty bear the jolting of the vehicle, which had no
+springs. They asked if we could do anything to help him in his plight. I
+proposed that we should get him out of the cart and lay him on a
+"quatre" in the covered way which led from the galpon into the court,
+where he would get plenty of air, and we could then see if anything
+could be done for him. This we did, and then Bent and I attended to him.
+He had a severe lance wound in the right side, just above the hip bone.
+It was only very roughly bound up with some dirty calico, and he had
+evidently lost a good deal of blood. We first gave him a little Canya and
+water, and I told Correo to bring him a cup of bouillon, made of mutton,
+with rice in it, which he happened to have cooking on the kitchen stove.
+We undid the bandage, sponging the wound with warm water, so as to get
+it clean so far as we could. I then put on three pads made of linen
+soaked in cold water, fresh from the "alhibi," covered them with a piece
+of oil-silk I happened to have, and over these a broad linen bandage, to
+do which I remember I tore up the last remaining dress shirt I
+possessed. Above all this, we firmly fastened a broad strip of blanket,
+so that it would not easily move. Meanwhile, Correo and the Indians
+roughly fixed up three small bags filled with the dead leaf of the maize
+plant, and some old wool we had in the galpon; one for him to lie upon,
+with the other two on either side, in order, so far as possible, to
+deaden the jolting of the cart. By this time he seemed to have somewhat
+recovered, and although we could not persuade him to eat anything solid
+he took some more "bouillon," with a little biscuit broken into it. He
+seemed a very nice man, about forty years of age, and he told us his
+name was Antonio Martinez, and gave me an address which would always
+find him. He was very grateful for the little we had been able to do for
+him, and told me if at any time he could be of any service to us I was
+to be sure to let him know. We then carried him carefully to the cart,
+where we made him as comfortable as might be. The soldiers and the negro
+had meanwhile got something to eat, and sucked some Mate in the galpon,
+so they were quite refreshed, and we watched them make a start, with the
+sincere hope that the wounded colonel might safely reach his journey's
+end. The passing of the soldiers went on during the day; it did not
+finish until about half an hour before sunset. Bent and I watched it to
+the end from the "azotea," and it was indeed a wonderful sight. The
+excitement and the desire to get on was intense, and it was quite clear
+the Blancos had been defeated, and were now making a pretty good run of
+it, and that the whole division, of which we had from time to time seen
+portions, and heard so much, was hastening to join their main army, lest
+the victorious Colorados should again come up with them. We also
+remained watchful and alert, and continued to have everything made fast
+for the next two or three days, so that should they happen to come our
+way they would not catch us unprepared. The dogs, however, did not at
+all approve of it, because they could not run in and out of the galpon
+at will, but "Napoleon" and "Ramonou" managed to take exercise in the
+courtyard, and "Brag" and "Bully" did very much the same. However, a
+week went by and we heard nothing of the Colorados after the battle; all
+we knew was that none of them seemed to come our way, and for this we
+were thankful. One afternoon, a few days later, about half an hour
+before sunset, a captain in the Blanco army rode up to the Cerro,
+attended by a soldier, carrying his lance and wearing the white device
+on his hat. They had a led horse with them in addition to the two they
+rode, and all three were in first-rate condition. The captain asked me
+if we could put them up for the night. So soon as they had unsaddled, I
+had one of the tropillas brought up, and we collared their horses for
+them. Correo soon made up a bed, and it was not long before Bent and I
+and the captain sat down to supper, the soldier, meanwhile, making
+himself quite happy with the Indians in the galpon. After it was over we
+sat and smoked and talked in the gun-room, where Correo had lit a small
+fire in the stove, so that we were warm and comfortable. Our guest told
+us his name was Eduardo Suares; he was very polite, and appeared to be
+well educated; and he looked certainly not more than thirty years of
+age. He told us the battle of Colonia would have no influence whatever
+upon the movements of the main Blanco army, which he expected would now
+very shortly be moving forward, and that it would not be long before
+Monte Video would be besieged. He did not think for a moment that the
+Colorados would be able to make any firm stand outside the capital. All
+this being so, he considered that early in July the revolution might
+probably be at an end, and the Colorados would be compelled to resign
+office. Captain Suarez also said he had passed a great part of his life
+in the province of Entre Rios, where his relations had an estancia, but
+that he himself was a native of the republic of Uruguay. He gave us the
+following interesting account of the great Urguiza, Governour and despot
+of the province of Entre Rios, who was one of the strongest, ablest and
+most savage lieutenants of the famous Dictator Rosas. He ruled his
+province with the dagger and the bullet; himself shut up in a strong
+castle in the midst of the "Pampa." Eventually he succeeded to supreme
+power after the fall of Rosas, and his first important administrative
+act was to assemble all the provincial governours and to ratify the
+Fundamental Agreement of January, 1831, as the basis of the Constitution
+of the Argentine Confederation. He further told us that he himself was
+present at the death of Urguiza, when he was assassinated in 1870. He
+said that when Urguiza's body lay dead an Indian chief who was present
+exclaimed "Impossibile! El General Urguiza nunca muere!" "Impossible!
+The General Urguiza never dies!" It was during Urguiza's governorship of
+Entre Rios that it was said you could hang up a pair of silver stirrups
+upon a tree in the Monte, on the bank of the river, where there was much
+traffic, and go and find them there in a month's time. But this state of
+things was certainly not the case in the Republic of Uruguay during La
+Guerra de Aparicio, from the year 1870 to the year 1872. We both enjoyed
+listening to our guest's descriptive and animated conversation, and
+having bid each other "Buena noche" (good-night), retired to rest, as
+the captain wished to start early next morning. The horses were up in
+the corral by sunrise, when the soldier caught up and saddled his own
+and the captain's horse, and after partaking of coffee the latter bid us
+"Adios" with many thanks for the very slight hospitality I had been able
+to afford them. Exactly three weeks from the day when the wounded
+colonel Antonio Martinez drove up to the Cerro, a negro rode up about
+twelve o'clock. I happened to be just returning from a ride round the
+camp in the opposite direction. He appeared to be well mounted on a
+good-looking "bayo," or cream horse, with a black mane and tail, and he
+was leading a "saino," or brown, with a white star on his forehead. He
+saluted me, and asked if I was in charge of the Cerro. I said "Yes,"
+whereupon he handed me a letter from Colonel Martinez, saying that after
+leaving us he had suffered very much less on his journey, that he had
+reached a hospital, and was now almost convalescent, for his wound had
+gone on well. It was a nice letter, couched in very friendly terms,
+thanking me for what we had done, which was really very little, and
+begging that I would accept the "saino" horse as a slight memento of
+what had happened. I told the negro to unsaddle and tie up the two
+horses and go into the galpon to get some breakfast, which he seemed
+very pleased to do. I then just had a look over the "saino." He was at
+first sight rather a long low-looking horse, with good shoulders and
+long sweeping quarters, and it was this length of body which made him
+appear, until you got close up to him, a smaller horse in height than he
+really was. He gave me the impression of being between six and seven
+years old. Bent had ridden down to the Swiss Colony, hoping to find some
+letters he was expecting, so I had to await his return before giving me
+his opinion regarding him. I wrote a letter to Colonel Martinez,
+thanking him for the horse, and for his kind thought about us, and gave
+it to the negro, who promised to deliver it, and after he was
+sufficiently refreshed he mounted his "bayo," to whom we had given a
+feed of maize, and departed. I then had the "tropilla" brought in, and
+collared the "saino" to the bay mare. Her colt, which old Juan had
+tamed, still suffered at times from his shoulder; hard ground seemed to
+affect him the most, for after rain he could then be ridden. A little
+before sundown Bent returned quite cheerful, having received his
+letters. There were several people at Quincke's pulperia, and the place
+seemed full of conversation and news. It was said that the advance on
+Monte Video by the Blanco army had already begun, and that the Colorados
+were now retiring before them. Those who had taken part in the battle of
+Colonia had already returned to the province of San Jose by a route
+which led them nearer to the estuary of La Plata, and I could not help
+fearing lest in their passing they might have gone to Monsieur Emile
+Gunther's, and so have taken "Carnival." However, I comforted myself by
+the certainty that if I had kept him on at the Cerro I must have lost
+him. When the horses came up in the morning, I saddled the "saino" and
+rode him down to La Concordia. Bent was not much impressed by his
+appearance, but when I saw Don Frederico, he said he thought him a good
+honest horse, likely to prove a good servant, and that I had better do
+all I could to look after him. We had now reached the second week in
+June, and winter had already come. However, we had plenty of grass, and
+both sheep and cattle had done very well since the New Year began. About
+eleven o'clock Marmasola sent me up a message by one of his boys to say
+that a battle on a somewhat large scale had taken place inside the
+province of San Jose; that the Blancos had been victorious, and that the
+Colorados were now completely disorganised, and fleeing before them.
+Further, it was supposed the main Blanco army would now move forward and
+besiege Monte Video. This was indeed great news, and we now felt we
+should soon see the end of the revolution, and peace would be declared
+at last. Two days later, about four o'clock, a Blanco officer rode up to
+the Cerro, carrying dispatches. He said his horse was tired, for he had
+travelled fast and far, and he begged me to lend him a really good
+horse, which would carry him along for five leagues (15 miles), without
+loss of time, at the end of which he felt certain of obtaining fresh
+horses and all he wanted. What was I to do? He said the dispatches were
+urgent, and he had been directed to make all possible haste. I thought
+it over a couple of minutes, and then told him I would lend him my
+rosillo, provided he would faithfully promise to let him go at the end
+of the five leagues, and this he promised to do. The moon was nearly at
+the full, and would be shining during the greater part of the night,
+which looked as if it would be fine and clear. The rosillo was in
+excellent form; he had not been ridden for nearly a week, and I knew he
+would carry him swiftly and well, and that if all went right, when let
+loose he would do his best to make his own way back to the Cerro with
+the moon. While he was being got ready, the officer, who looked as if
+his word could be relied on, told me that the news Marmasola had sent to
+me was correct, and that it was more than probable that the siege of the
+capital had already commenced. It was with a sore heart that I said,
+"Hasta la vista," "until we see each other again," to the rosillo, and
+saw the officer mount him and ride away. For it was the first and only
+time that a soldier had put a leg across him during the revolution. So
+I wished the officer "un buen viaje" (a good journey); the rosillo
+tossed up his head and set off at a gallop; he had the heart of a lion,
+and very soon both were out of sight.
+
+The first news I heard next morning was from Pedrito. He said he was
+bringing up the tropillas not long after sunrise, when he heard a neigh
+behind him, and looking back there was the rosillo, coming at a trot to
+join his troop, just as if nothing had happened. He looked none the
+worse for his journey, and a drink of water from the "alhibi" and a feed
+of maize pleased him greatly. "Napoleon," too, showed pleasure at his
+safe return, for they were great friends, and had passed many a night
+together when the rosillo was tied up in the court, and even when in his
+stable the dog would lie as close to it as he could. June passed away
+and nothing happened, except that the news of Monte Video being closely
+besieged by the Blancos was fully confirmed; and then early in July
+peace was declared. The revolution was over, and what had been known as
+"La Guerra de Aparicio" was at length a thing of the past. Thereupon the
+Blancos took over the government, and assumed power, and the whole
+country quickly settled down, as was the custom of a South American
+republic under similar circumstances.
+
+Charles Bent at once began to prepare to go into Monte Video, and left
+by the diligence from Quincke's pulperia the middle of the following
+week. His life in Uruguay had not been a very successful one, nor was he
+really fond of camp life; indeed, he was already looking forward with
+pleasure to the many conveniences and comparative comfort of life in a
+town. During the latter half of the month I too was turning over in my
+mind whether I would not take a journey out towards the Rio Negro,
+where I knew a man who had a large estancia. I had rather a fancy to go
+up country, for not only should I be able to see all that was to be
+seen, but also obtain a little more experience of estancia life,
+probably under somewhat different conditions and surroundings. However,
+while I was thinking it all over, I received a letter from Mr. James
+Jardine, who was living at his estancia La Esperanza, situate some six
+leagues from the town of San Jose in the direction of the river Plate,
+inviting me to come and stay with him there for a time. He said he had
+heard from a mutual friend in Monte Video that it was not unlikely I
+might be leaving the Cerro now the war was over, so he wrote at once
+lest I should be making any different plans. I rode down to La Concordia
+and showed the letter to Don Frederico, who advised me to take advantage
+of the opportunity offered. He said, however, that he was arranging to
+go away himself very shortly for about three weeks, and he hoped I
+should be able to stay on at the Cerro during his absence, and so look
+after things until his return. Accordingly, I dispatched a letter to Mr.
+Jardine, thanking him for what he so kindly said in his letter, and
+informing him how matters stood, and saying that I hoped to arrive at La
+Esperanza during the last week in August. I found myself fully occupied
+during Don Frederico's absence, and I kept the weekly "para rodeo" of
+the cattle going on regularly. On one of these occasions, I was riding
+the "saino," we were rather short-handed, and a big point of cattle made
+an attempt to break back. I had to put the "saino," therefore, into a
+full gallop, and was rather surprised to find that he seemed to me to
+have, when stretching himself out, quite a superior turn of speed. With
+a little care and rest he had considerably improved, both in looks and
+condition. One beautiful day, with a frosty air and a blue sky, I rode
+him down to Monsieur Emile Gunther's, to ask after "Carnival." I found
+him at home, and he kindly invited me to join them at breakfast.
+Although it was the end of winter, the Swiss Colony looked attractive as
+I rode through it, and this was doubtless due to the fact that the
+numerous and large clumps of "eucalypti" never lost their summer
+foliage. Monsieur Emile told me "Carnival" had kept well and safe from
+soldiers. Moreover, when from time to time he had been good enough to
+use him, as I had especially asked him to do, he had always found him a
+very pleasant horse to ride. I sincerely thanked him for his kindness,
+and, when I left, saddled up "Carnival," leading the "saino," who led
+very well, and I arrived home with my two horses feeling that I had
+greatly enjoyed my ride, and I am sure that "Napoleon" was glad to see
+his friend again. One afternoon during Don Frederico's absence I had
+been round the puestos, returning but a few minutes before sundown. The
+southdowns were shut up inside their sheepyard, and in it was a man in
+the act of catching hold of one of them. He was brandishing a large
+knife, and loudly gesticulating, and he looked to me as if he had been
+drinking too much Canya. It seems he had ridden up shortly before and
+asked the Indians to give him some mutton to eat, as he said he had been
+riding in the woods of the Pichinango, and that he was hungry, and
+wanted food. This they offered to do, but when he saw the southdowns in
+their yard he said he would have one of them, and when they remonstrated
+and told him I should be very angry, merely remarked "that he did not
+care for any Englishmen, whether he liked it or not. It did not matter
+the least to him." As it happened, I just rode up at the critical
+moment, when I at once jumped off my horse, went into the yard, and told
+the man to come out of it, and leave the sheep alone. He made a step or
+two forward, towards me, knife in hand, but I whipped out my Colts
+revolver, and covered him with the barrel, warning him that if he came a
+step forward I should fire. This calmed him down, and he put back his
+knife into its sheath and began to walk out of the yard. I told him to
+mount his horse at once, and clear out, and that if I found him again
+interfering with any of the stock upon the estancia, it would be the
+worse for him. So he rode away, looking very much subdued. I could only
+suppose him to be one of the matreros who were still said to be hovering
+about the woods in our neighbourhood.
+
+It had been Correo's intention to go into Monte Video so soon as peace
+was declared, but he told me he felt altogether so much better for his
+stay at the Cerro, he should like to remain on until I left. On August
+25th, Don Frederico returned, and I went down to see him the following
+morning. He very kindly said he wished me to keep the rosillo, seeing I
+had taken such care of him in memory of my stay at the Cerro. I proposed
+that "Ramonou" should go down to La Concordia, where I knew he would be
+useful, as there were plenty of sheep dogs where I was going. "Bully"
+and "Brag" were to go there with him. Jennings had been away for some
+time, but I thought perhaps he might like to have them back. Don
+Frederico also said I had better take Justiniano with me, as he could
+lead the "saino" with my light baggage. My box and portmanteau meanwhile
+could be sent over to Quincke's pulperia to await the next diligence
+passing on to San Jose, where it could be left at the Hotel Oriental,
+until I could send for them. I arranged to start three days later, and
+when I got back began putting my things together, and getting everything
+ready for a move. The morning proved fine, and Justiniano and I were all
+ready saddled up soon after sunrise.
+
+I rode "Carnival" and led the rosillo, while Justiniano bestrode a
+grey, not by any means a bad horse, which had been left by soldiers. He
+led the "saino," also saddled, and carrying my light baggage.
+
+Uncle Juan, and Correo, and Pedrito were all present to see us off, and
+thus I bid adieu to the Cerro del Pichinango, not without regret, as I
+thought of the day I had first arrived there, now more than two years
+ago, and of all that had happened since.
+
+
+
+
+PART III.
+
+LA ESTANCIA ESPERANZA.
+
+
+We rode quietly along, for we had about twelve and a half leagues in
+front of us, until we reached our journey's end. "Napoleon" appeared
+quite happy; not the least upset by the prospect of a change in his
+surroundings. I had brought some cold meat and biscuit, and a little
+coffee and sugar, so that we might enjoy a light meal between eleven and
+twelve o'clock, and also let the horses rest and graze for a while. We
+made a little fire by the side of the track, and then sat down until our
+coffee got warm. After that, we made good progress, so that we arrived
+at La Esperanza about three o'clock in the afternoon, where I received a
+very kind welcome from Mr. and Mrs. Jardine, who were at home at the
+time. When I had unsaddled, the former told me to turn my three horses
+into a large paddock, enclosed with wire fencing, where he said they
+would be all right. Justiniano, however, kept his grey, and tethered him
+out for the night, so that he could then get it early next morning, when
+he was to return to the Cerro. Mr. Jardine's house was both roomy and
+comfortable. It stood facing a picturesque river, less than half a mile
+distant, with woods on either bank. In front was a wide verandah, which
+also went further back in the middle, thus dividing the house, as it
+were, into two wings, united at the back by bedrooms, which lay behind.
+As you entered Mr. and Mrs. Jardine's apartments were on the right, and
+a large dining-room, with a kitchen and sundry outbuildings attached,
+lay to the left. Quite at the far end of the house to the right stood a
+high tower, with a comfortable sitting-room below, and a bedroom above.
+Beyond this again was a flower garden, with numerous fruit trees, and
+this joined on to another garden at the back, where both flowers and
+vegetables abundantly flourished. In front of the verandah, looking
+towards the river, was a wide open space. A brick house, with its roof
+of red tiles, a storehouse, and an office stood fairly removed on the
+right, while further away in front was a "galpon," or woolshed, with
+ranchos for employees adjoining, but these latter were at the same time
+so situate as not in any way to incommode the house itself, neither did
+they shut off the view of the woods and river beyond. Mr. James Jardine,
+or Don Diego, as he was mostly called, was a thin spare man, of middle
+height, and something over forty years of age. He was a great sportsman,
+and devoted to shooting; indeed, during the winter months he occupied
+himself in scarcely any other way. He really took but little interest in
+the work of the estancia, as he left this to his managing partner, Mr.
+Alexander Maclean, otherwise known as Don Alejandro, who, at the time of
+my arrival, was away in Monte Video, but was expected to return in about
+a fortnight. Mrs. Jardine was not very strong; she usually had her
+sister, Miss Denman, living with her, who, at the time I came, was away
+on a visit. There were two little boys, one five years old, called
+Peter, and the other two and a half, whose name was John. They were
+altogether a very happy family, greatly preferring the freedom of the
+camp to the conventions of town life.
+
+The Estancia Esperanza comprised somewhere about eleven thousand acres,
+but within this area were included three or four "banyados," or small
+lakes, and a certain amount of land, which was often covered with water
+during wet weather, but affording at the same time very useful
+pasturage. There were twelve hundred head of cattle, and a "manada" of
+mares and colts, beside something over thirteen thousand sheep. These
+were distributed at five puestos, more or less two thousand and five
+hundred at each, while perhaps five hundred fed at the estancia itself.
+Both cattle and sheep were each under the charge of a "capataz," or
+foreman, who carried on all work connected with them, the sheep being
+under the superintendence of a Scotchman, named John Gordon, and the
+cattle and horses of a native, who would then be more than fifty years
+of age. His name was Ramon Duran, a first-rate camp man, who knew his
+business thoroughly. Owing to the war, which had so recently ended, the
+estancia was short of riding horses. Mr. Jardine was much surprised when
+I told him I had succeeded in saving mine, for he had nearly had to part
+with the only horse he ever really cared to ride, a good-looking
+"rosillo alazan," or chestnut roan; indeed, he said it was more good
+luck than any care and management on his part which had enabled him to
+keep him. Meanwhile, all was well, he said, which ended well. Spring was
+now coming on, and September came in fine and warm. I went for a ride
+round the estancia, and came back along the bank of the river. It was
+pleasant riding here, and I could well imagine that later on in the
+summer the flowering creepers would be very beautiful. As I passed, it
+was drawing on to sunset; I noted the cry of a "carpincho," or
+water-pig, whom I had suddenly disturbed, while the shrill call of the
+"pteru-pteru," or plover, made itself heard on the plain beyond; and a
+flight of water-fowl, among whom I noticed a white egret crane, came
+quickly swooping down at the side of some marshy land, mostly covered
+with reeds, where doubtless they had their home. When I again reached
+the house I was glad to find my box and portmanteau had arrived, a
+cartman who was returning to La Esperanza having come across them at the
+Hotel Oriental in San Jose, and brought them along in his cart.
+"Napoleon" had already found a corner in the verandah, underneath the
+tower, in which to sleep. He was a very good-tempered dog, and I had no
+fear that he would be at all likely in any way to alarm the children.
+Next morning I walked down to the corral, to see the riding horses
+brought up, a good many of which had evidently been left by soldiers
+during the war. During the next couple of weeks the flocks from the
+puestos were being passed through the sheepyards at the estancia; the
+lambs had to be marked, and various matters attended to. I also went to
+my first "para rodeo" of the cattle. We had horses tied up the night
+before, and made an early start. I rode my rosillo, and went with Ramon
+Duran to the far end of the estancia, looking towards the river Plate.
+It was a beautiful morning, and the air was delightful as we galloped
+along. I soon perceived the cattle were well in hand. They came up very
+well to the "rodeo," and were easy to keep there. The first fortnight in
+October proved very fine and warm. Meanwhile, Miss Denman had returned,
+as also had Mr. Alexander Maclean, from Monte Video. I found him to be a
+big, burly, and apparently good-natured looking Scotchman. He proposed
+that I should take charge of the accounts, and also lend a hand in the
+ordinary routine work of the estancia. He took me into the office and
+shewed me the books, explaining how they had been kept. I had hitherto
+been occupying one of the bedrooms opening on the garden, which lay
+behind the house, but I now moved up into the bedroom above the tower.
+This was very agreeable, for there was a splendid look-out from either
+of the two windows, and I could imagine what it would appear on some
+clear night in summer, when a full moon was shining, the heat of the
+day over, and you could gaze far and wide in every direction, beyond
+lake and wood, and river, away to the distant horizon, which alone would
+appear to end the undulating plains of Uruguay. There was a very nice
+American wagonette at the estancia. It had four wheels, and was fitted
+with a pole, and drawn by a pair of small bay horses, with flowing manes
+and tails. Their brown harness was both light and strong, with brass
+mountings, so that altogether it was really a very pretty turn-out. A
+young Scotchman, who acted as coachman, sat in front, while those inside
+sat facing each other behind. When the weather permitted, Mrs. Jardine
+much enjoyed a drive down to Beatty's puesto, which was at the far end
+of the estancia, and she liked to take her sister and the children with
+her. Accordingly, one afternoon, they all made a start, inviting me to
+go with them. So I mounted "Carnival," whom I happened to have caught
+up, and "Napoleon" went with us. There were one or two wide tracks
+leading from La Esperanza, on either side of it, which had developed
+into quite respectable roads for driving on. Partly from having been
+beaten down by carts, and partly from the nature of the soil, they
+seemed to have caked down quite hard and firm, so that ruts and bad
+places were few, and the carriage was able to pass smoothly and easily
+along. Mrs. Beatty was a nice woman, with an engaging manner. She had
+two children, Susan, a little girl of nine, and David, a fine little
+fellow of five. She had unfortunately lost her eldest boy, who would now
+have been about fourteen, a little more than a year ago, owing to an
+accident with a horse, which had kicked him and seriously hurt him
+internally. This was a great grief to his mother; his name was Robert,
+and he had come out with his parents from Scotland. Mrs. Beatty welcomed
+us warmly when we arrived. It made quite a small picnic for the
+children, for she always insisted on their staying to have tea and some
+of the nice little Scotch cakes she made. So we took the horses out of
+the carriage, and tied them up under the "euremada," for the sun was now
+getting to be quite hot after mid-day. Beatty himself was a quiet,
+rather solemn-looking man, with a red complexion, and sandy-coloured
+hair. It was pleasant as we returned in the late afternoon, and as we
+passed along, we saw one of the blue silver foxes some distance ahead of
+us, already come out of his lair, preparing for an evening stroll. We
+made too much noise for him, however, and he soon made off, followed in
+full chase by "Napoleon," but naturally to no purpose. The sun was fast
+declining when we reached the estancia; however, I was pleased to hear
+both the ladies and children tell Mr. Jardine, who was in the verandah,
+they had enjoyed their drive, and had all of them spent a very pleasant
+afternoon. The next morning we had a heavy thunderstorm, with sharp and
+continuous flashes of lightning, which lasted upwards of an hour, and
+was then followed by torrential rain. This went on the greater part of
+the day.
+
+Shearing began on the tenth of November. There was only a small gang of
+six professional shearers employed. The remainder were made up of
+natives living in the neighbourhood, of which there were a good many,
+who not only could shear well, but had been accustomed to come year
+after year. The "galpon" was not nearly so large as that at the Cerro,
+in fact the room available was if anything too restricted for the number
+of sheep which had to be shorn. More time, therefore, was needed to
+complete the business. On November 20th a spell of bad weather set in
+which caused delay, as the sheep naturally were wet and could not easily
+be got dry again. However, a week later it cleared up, and after that
+work progressed satisfactorily. The shearers were very quiet, and
+orderly, and although they did not shear very fast, they did their work
+well. The month of December, however, was half through before the
+shearing was completed, and the shearers, having received the money due
+to them, finally took their departure. No festivities took place, as was
+so often customary at the end of shearing, but it was generally
+understood that a race or something of the kind would be held later on,
+probably on one of the days between Christmas and the New Year. John
+Gordon, the "capataz" of the sheep, had a nice bay horse, about five
+years old, belonging to himself, which had been born and grown up, and
+also been tamed on the estancia. His owner considered him to be
+something of a racer; indeed, had so high an opinion of him, I really
+believed him to think he would easily run away from anything likely to
+be put against him. When some talk was taking place about having a race
+one evening at dinner, I said I should not mind matching my old "saino"
+against Gordon's bay, provided the distance was anything over a mile.
+Don Alejandro told Gordon what I had said, and he was quite willing to
+ride his horse against mine, and as it happened we were both just about
+an equal weight. I had seen the bay several times, a good-looking horse,
+with a white star on his forehead, and two white hind fetlocks, and I
+reflected I had probably made a mistake in putting my "saino" against
+him. However, as the race was only to be for prizes given by Mr. Jardine
+and Don Alejandro, and there was to be no betting between Gordon and
+myself, nor indeed did I intend to bet with anyone else, I did not see
+any harm would be done, and if it gave any pleasure to the people on the
+estancia to see a bit of a gallop, all I had to say was I hoped they
+would enjoy the amusement of it, and that the best horse would win. The
+time being so short, it was obvious nothing could be done in regard to
+training either horse, beyond giving him half a dozen gallops or so,
+just to clear his wind; and it was agreed that both horses should run
+the race as they were, without giving them any maize or special
+preparation. The "saino" had improved a good bit in condition since he
+came to La Esperanza. A rest had done him good, especially as to his
+forelegs, which I felt sure had been a bit shaken. He had also got his
+summer coat, and this added to his appearance. We now knew the distance
+was to be a mile and a quarter, on the track leading from the estancia
+towards Beatty's puesto, and the finish was to end as close to the
+_former_ as possible. I caught the "saino" up for three hours every day,
+and gave him a brush over, and saw to his feet, taking him out for a
+gentle canter, and every other day I gave him a gallop on the course,
+but not at full speed; in fact, I only put him to this twice until the
+day of the race arrived, and then for not more than a quarter of a mile
+at a time. Gordon did much the same with his bay, only while I rode my
+horse late in the afternoon, he rode his early in the morning, when
+no-one was much about to see how he performed. New Year's Day was
+appointed for the race to be run, at three o'clock in the afternoon, the
+day being, of course, a holiday. There was a pretty general feeling at
+the estancia that the bay horse would win, and the odds were greatly in
+his favour. I knew, of course, that bets would be made on the race. I
+never knew a race in South America when they were not, but beyond the
+prizes that were given, I myself, as I have before mentioned, did not
+stand to win anything. These were to be an excellent English saddle and
+bridle complete, and a breech-loading revolver, of a good make, with a
+box containing a hundred cartridges to fit. New Year's Day proved fine
+and still; the sun shone from a blue sky, interspersed here and there
+with light "cirrus" cloud, but the air was fresh and cool, so it was not
+too hot; just the day, indeed, for everyone to enjoy a holiday. News of
+the race, of course, got about, and I was told that some natives who
+were interested in racing were coming to look on, probably inspired by
+curiosity to see how the Englishmen managed it. As Gordon and I rode
+quietly down, soon after half-past two o'clock, to the starting point,
+there seemed quite a little crowd gathering where the finish was to take
+place. Two friends of Gordon came with us to see us off. The start was
+quickly made, neither horse giving the slightest trouble. The bay took
+the lead from the first, and made the running throughout, the "saino"
+being in close attendance. When, however, we were about three hundred
+yards from the finish, and I fancied the bay seemed flagging a little,
+for I saw that Gordon was using his whip, I also made a call upon the
+"saino" which he immediately answered, and stretching himself out, shot
+forward like an arrow from a bow, winning easily by a couple of lengths.
+The natives at once came to inspect the winner, and one, who seemed
+somewhat of a principal man among them, asked me if I would like to part
+with him, offering me forty dollars for him. I asked him if he was
+buying him to keep or to sell again, and also if he would be sure and
+treat him all right. He promised to keep him, and to do this, so we rode
+back to the estancia. I unsaddled the "saino," the man paid me over the
+forty dollars, and he then took the horse straight away with him. I knew
+if I refused the offer, that it would not probably be very long before
+the old "saino" would be missing, for I had noticed one or two natives
+present, men who did not look too particular, shewing a somewhat
+peculiar interest in the horse, now they had seen how he could gallop.
+As a matter of fact, I had no real fancy for racing, and I thought it
+better to pass on the "saino" to an owner who did like it, and to a man
+who evidently appreciated the horse's good qualities, and would
+therefore be likely to take good care of him. I happened to hear of him
+again some time later from a man I met casually. He told me the horse
+had done a good bit of racing in a quiet way, and had been quite
+successful, and had done well for his new owner, so that he also would
+probably continue to do well by him. I received many congratulations
+upon the result of the race, and it seemed to be the general opinion
+that the native, when he bought the "saino" from me, got very good value
+for his money. In the middle of January the weather became very hot, and
+this lasted a little over a fortnight, and then came a succession of
+thunderstorms, with severe lightning, which rapidly cooled the air. I
+watched one of these with much interest about 9 p.m. through the windows
+of my room above the tower. Just an ordinary display of nature's
+fireworks, but how grand they were! as the vivid flashes shot like
+rockets in every direction through the overheated atmosphere of a summer
+in the Southern Hemisphere.
+
+Meantime, Mr. Jardine had received a letter from a Mr. Treherne, a
+friend of his residing in Buenos Aires, saying he purposed coming up to
+Monte Video for a little rest and change, and that if it were possible
+he should very much like to see him. Thereupon, he at once wrote
+inviting him to come and spend a few days at La Esperanza, and he asked
+him to fix his own day to travel to San Jose in the diligence, and to
+let us know, so that we might send in to meet him. Accordingly word came
+to expect him on February 4th, so I went in with a boy, mounted on a
+chestnut, and a nice little grey horse belonging to the estancia, and
+"Carnival" to welcome him. I also had a little business to arrange at
+the Policia, and I wanted if possible to have a short interview with the
+chief of police. So we started just before three o'clock, arriving at
+the Hotel Oriental not long before the diligence was expected. When it
+came it brought Mr. Treherne with it. He was rather a delicate-looking
+man, getting on towards fifty, his hair fast turning grey, and with the
+manner of the student rather than the man of affairs. He had only
+brought light luggage in a pair of canvas saddle bags, which the boy
+could easily sling across his "recado." I got him a comfortable bedroom
+at the hotel, and a smaller one for myself. We then had dinner. At eight
+o'clock next morning, I went to the police station, transacted my
+business, and before leaving was fortunate in obtaining ten minutes'
+conversation with the chief of police, a tall, grizzled-looking man, who
+was, however, very courteous, and polite. I had two or three small
+commissions to attend to for Mrs. Jardine, and some medicine to get at
+the chemist's for John, and then, having partaken of coffee and bread
+and butter, we were all ready for a start at half-past nine. I asked Mr.
+Treherne which horse he would prefer to ride, "Carnival" or the grey. He
+preferred the former, and we were soon jogging along through the
+outskirts of the town. My companion was not much of a horseman, but
+"Carnival" knew his business, and carried him smoothly and easily along;
+he was fortunately very safe on his legs, and knew well how to pick his
+way over rough ground; indeed, all the rider need do was to sit quiet
+and hold the reins, for "Carnival" himself would do all the rest.
+
+Mr. Treherne expressed great pleasure at seeing Mr. and Mrs. Jardine
+again, telling them he had a capital journey, and that the beautiful air
+of the open country, as he rode along, had given him quite an appetite
+for luncheon. He was very fond of plants and flowers, and, indeed,
+something of a botanist as well. During his stay he expressed a wish to
+see the coastline and shores of La Plata, and said how greatly he would
+enjoy an expedition there some fine day, when it was not too hot. Mr.
+Jardine could not accompany him, but he asked me to do so, and we
+arranged for an early start, as the shore of the estuary lay a good long
+way beyond the furthest point of the estancia in that direction, so that
+going there and back made a certain distance to ride. I again offered
+him "Carnival," as he seemed to like him so much, and I rode a bay horse
+belonging to the estancia.
+
+When we got beyond our own camp we passed through a kind of open wood
+with thinly-scattered "tala" trees. These were not large, much in shape
+of a prickly shrub, although on or near the banks of a river these trees
+grew much larger, and their wood was greatly used both for fencing and
+firewood. As we progressed the soil got poorer, until at last we came to
+what were really sand-dunes.
+
+These were undulating, and of large extent, and as we passed along my
+companion noticed every here and there rather a deep dell, with shrubs
+growing in it. Here the sand was deep, so we dismounted and led our
+horses, and leaving his with me, and going down into one of these, he
+was surprised to find it quite bright with flowers, "Petunias," and
+"Lantana," whose improved relations, he said, were great favourites in
+English gardens. We then were able to remount our horses, and so
+proceeded slowly on to the shore of the Estuary de la Plata. Here the
+outlook was most attractive. Nothing, not even a sail, visible on the
+wide waters, shining like silver in the sunshine on that early summer
+afternoon. A wide expanse of sand like the sea-shore stretched east and
+west, golden in colour, and hard and firm to ride on. Bordering this,
+along the edge of the dunes, were a row of large cacti, the kind you
+see in flower-pots in England, but here ten to fifteen feet high, with
+beautiful crimson blossoms in full bloom, hanging in profusion on the
+edge of their pendant branches. Here we unsaddled and tied up the horses
+beneath their shade. I soon had a fire lighted to keep off the flies,
+and also to warm some coffee I had brought with us. Our luncheon, too,
+was welcome, and we enjoyed it greatly. After a rest and a smoke we
+again saddled up, and had a good gallop on the sands, which the horses
+seemed to enjoy every bit as much as we did. We returned by a somewhat
+different route, turning towards the river bank, and following it during
+the latter portion of our ride. When crossing the camp, I pointed out
+the patches of verbena, some scarlet and some white, which in places
+quite covered the short grass, looking very bright and pretty. We now
+kept close to the woods, but the undergrowth was too thick and tangled
+to allow anyone easily to get inside. Mr. Treherne was much interested
+to see quite large trees apparently covered with flowers, but on nearer
+approach he found they did not belong to the tree itself, but were the
+blossoms of a creeper, which completely enveloped it. Some of them were
+quite brilliant in colour, in marked contrast to the festoons of grey
+lichen moss, which hung from other trees in close proximity. He
+dismounted and succeeded in getting some semi-tropical orchids, which it
+gave him pleasure to take back with him. We were also fortunate in
+seeing a family of the "carpincho," or water-pig; a mother and her
+little ones. They were a pretty brown colour, with thick, somewhat
+bristly coats, in form like a large guinea-pig, with short legs, and
+webbed feet. On hearing us they all sprang into the river, and swam
+hurriedly away, their heads only showing above the water. When taken
+young they make rather amusing pets, and become very affectionate and
+domesticated, though at the same time they will occasionally go down and
+join their wild companions for a swim in the river, provided it be near
+enough, returning back to the house afterwards.
+
+The summer's day was drawing to its close as we rode up to the estancia,
+unsaddled the horses, and let them go. When Mr. Treherne took his
+departure I lent him "Carnival," and accompanied him to San Jose. We
+arrived during the afternoon and, as I had some business to attend to, I
+left him at the hotel to rest after his ride. I also took the
+opportunity of calling upon Colonel Gonzales, who was then in residence
+at a house he owned in the town. A tall, aristocratic-looking man,
+descended from one of the old Spanish families, who had originally
+colonised Uruguay, he was now a widower with two daughters, the
+Senoritas Augusta and Isabella. The former resembled her father, having
+a somewhat pensive expression, a clear, pale complexion, and dark hair.
+She had a quiet, gentle manner, and her sister was wont to describe her
+as "muy religiosa" (very religious). She herself, on the contrary, was
+vivacious, and amusing, with brown hair and a bright complexion. I was
+accorded a kind and friendly reception by the colonel, who said he hoped
+when again in the town I should not fail to come and see them. Soon
+after I got back to the hotel we saw the arrival of the diligence from
+Paysandu; this was always an event in the day, and it was timed to start
+before six o'clock next morning for Monte Video. The horses were quickly
+taken out, and the passengers emerged, weary and hungry, and entered the
+hotel. Then dinner was served, when we were fortunate in securing a
+small table beside one of the large windows opening on the street to
+ourselves. We then had some coffee and a cigarette, and afterwards
+walked out to listen to the band which played in the "plaza" when the
+evening was warm enough. The musicians occupied a small stand in the
+centre, around which the audience walked on a wide path, or sat about on
+seats or chairs, as seemed most convenient. Just opposite to the "plaza"
+stood the Cathedral. The moon was shining brightly, and here and there
+an officer in uniform, or some other "caballero" in close attendance
+upon a Senorita wearing the very becoming "mantilla," added to the
+picturesqueness of the scene. Returning to the hotel, we went to bed,
+for we had to be up early in the morning, when I duly saw Mr. Treherne,
+together with his belongings, take his seat in the diligence, and with
+many thanks for the little I had been able to do for him, he bid me
+farewell, saying he hoped at some future time he might have the pleasure
+of seeing me again at his home in Buenos Aires. Among the usual loud
+exclamations and cracking of whips, the diligence then started, and was
+soon out of sight in a cloud of dust, as it rolled and swung forward on
+its long journey. I then mounted "Carnival" and led a bay horse I had
+been riding, and although travelling somewhat slowly, reached the
+estancia a little before ten o'clock. During the next week I received a
+letter from the wounded Colonel Antonio Martinez, saying he had taken
+office in the new Blanco Government, and was now living in Monte Video.
+He gave me his new address, and told me that if he could do anything for
+me, and I would write and let him know, it would give him great
+pleasure. I accordingly wrote and thanked him for his letter and his
+kind thought, and told him I was no longer living at the Cerro del
+Pichinango, but was now at La Estancia Esperanza, some six leagues
+distant from the town of San Jose. Thereupon, shortly afterwards, I
+received another letter from him, saying he had a great friend, Don
+Carlos Mendoza, the recently appointed "Gefe Politico" (or Governour of
+the Department), and that he had written to give me an introduction to
+him, and to say that he had asked me to call upon him at his residence
+in San Jose the next time I happened to find myself in the town. I wrote
+and thanked him, expressing my gratitude, and saying it would give me
+great pleasure to avail myself of an opportunity which he had been so
+very good as to propose. We were now getting well on towards the end of
+March, and the weather was much cooler, but fine and pleasant, as is so
+often the case during the early autumn. About ten days later, two young
+brothers, Elliott by name, turned up at La Esperanza, about an hour
+before sundown. They were riding out from Monte Video to a small
+estancia belonging to a friend in the province of Colonia. They had a
+peon with them, who was leading an extra horse, and who was also engaged
+to act as guide, and they had ridden on that day from an estancia about
+twelve leagues distant, inside where they had been put up for the night,
+such being in these old-fashioned times a very common custom when
+travelling through the country. Seeing that they hailed from across the
+border, and that Don Alejandro and Mr. Jardine both happened to know
+something of their people at home, they were not only made welcome for
+the night, but were invited to stay until the beginning of the week
+following, so that they could rest their horses, see something of the
+estancia, and then proceed on their journey. They were in appearance one
+very like the other, with fair hair, blue eyes, and youthful, rosy,
+complexions. They had only lately landed in Monte Video, and after
+learning farming for a couple of years in the south of Scotland, had
+come out to Uruguay, having between them a moderate capital, with the
+intention of renting land, purchasing sheep and cattle, and so setting
+up as estancieros in a small way. There was only apparently about two
+years difference in their age; indeed, it would be difficult to surmise
+which was the elder. They had come out full of ideas and of hope for the
+future, being but little aware that the experience they might have had
+on the land at home would be of but little use to them in Uruguay,
+seeing what kind of a country it then was. But they were evidently a
+pair of cheery happy-go-lucky young fellows, and as I looked at them at
+dinner, and listened to their pleasant and interesting conversation, I
+could not help wondering what was destined to be their future. That
+evening, it was a Thursday, we were all smoking in the dining-room, when
+the talk turned upon the native method of taming young horses. Not
+thinking of its being taken seriously, I happened to say that I should
+not mind mounting a "potro," but I dare not say how long I should stay
+on his back. "Bravo! Don Guillermo," said Don Alejandro, with a laugh,
+"you shall mount one. We will have one tied up to-morrow afternoon, and
+you shall give him his first gallop on Saturday morning." I felt
+somewhat disconcerted, but did not like to draw back, and so it was
+arranged, and not long afterwards we all retired to rest. Accordingly, a
+portion of the "manada" was driven up into the corral, and with them was
+a colt, which must have been nearly six years old, of a muddly roan
+colour, with a flowing mane and tail, which had seldom come up before,
+having never been touched since he was marked late as a foal. A lasso
+was quickly thrown round his neck, and another round his hind legs, and
+falling helpless to the ground, a halter was put over his head and made
+fast with a stout thong of hide to a firm post. This would be about an
+hour before sundown, and here he had to remain during the night. This
+rough and ready treatment in handling a colt was quite a novelty to the
+two young men, who had never even imagined anything of the sort, and I
+feel sure they were looking forward with both interest and amusement to
+his having his first gallop on the next morning. I looked him over as he
+was being tied up, and came to the conclusion he was probably a bit of a
+tartar, although, as is well-known, appearances are often deceptive. Of
+course, the news of what was to happen became known, and about ten
+o'clock on Saturday morning, nearly everyone seemed on the look-out to
+see me start off. When we came to fix my "recado" he gave but little
+trouble, although I noticed he seemed sulky, with a nasty sullen look
+out of the corner of his eyes. He was now led away outside the
+buildings, where all four legs were tied together by a long hide thong,
+in such a manner that by giving one pull it all became instantly undone
+and fell to the ground. I now mounted, Ramon Duran coming on his horse
+alongside as "padrino," to accompany me, and help to guide the horse. A
+native pulled loose the leg-ropes, and I was at last ready for a start.
+The colt stood still a moment, wondering what had happened, and then
+made a violent plunge forward and started buck-jumping with all his
+might. He seemed to bend himself almost double, with his head and legs
+nearly touching underneath. I sat on for a time, while the bucking
+process continued, and then he threw me clean over his head, but I fell
+clear of him, and at once got up from the ground, none the worse for the
+fall. After getting my breath, I got on him again, with Ramon Duran
+close alongside me, but he again started buck-jumping, even more
+violently than before. I kept my seat until I felt my legs quite numb
+with the continued strain, and then I suddenly let loose the slight hold
+I had and came off a yard or two away on my feet. So I felt comforted;
+for this, even among the Indians, did not count as a fall. Ramon said he
+was "un diablo ungobernable" (an ungovernable devil), and urged me not
+to mount him again, but so soon as my legs had regained their feeling I
+persisted in doing so. This time he tried it on, but not so severely,
+and I managed to hold tight, punishing him at the same time with my
+"rebenque," or hide whip. I thus got him into a gallop straight ahead,
+Ramon following as close as he could behind, and with the open camp in
+front of me, I kept him at it until he completely succumbed, and in fact
+would now go any way I wished. For the moment he had enough, and I rode
+him back to the estancia, past the buildings and the people, who had
+gathered to see the fun, right up in front of the house. I received
+quite a small ovation, it was anyway very much more than the occasion
+deserved. I then dismounted, and the colt was collared to a mare, so
+that he could feed, and be got hold of easily again when wanted. The two
+Mr. Elliotts, who I am sure were very good-natured, both told me how
+pleased they were I had come to no harm, thanking me, and saying that
+what they had seen was quite a revelation to them. The end of it was
+that they all drank my health that evening at dinner, and next morning
+Mr. Jardine instructed the carpenter to cut out a round medal from a
+piece of lead with my initials on it, which was duly presented to me.
+Indeed, I believe I possess it somewhere or other to this day.
+
+On Monday morning the Elliotts resumed their journey towards Colonia,
+having, I am sure, enjoyed their little visit, and we all felt pleased
+to have been able to entertain them. The autumn had now come, and Mr.
+Jardine was beginning to think about his shooting, and looking over the
+guns and ammunition. The season had been a favourable one, partridges,
+or rather quail, were already getting into good condition, and it would
+not be long before the duck-shooting commenced. In shooting "quail," the
+custom was for two or three sportsmen to walk in a line, about fifty
+yards apart, and so catch the birds as they rose in front of them from
+the long grass, where they lay concealed. They were fairly plentiful,
+and, if the birds rose well, as they often did, afforded good sport,
+although to make a good bag often involved a fair amount of walking. Don
+Alejandro was fond of shooting, besides being well above an average
+shot. I sometimes made up a third and, although the same could certainly
+not be said of me, yet sometimes I was more successful than I had any
+reason to expect. Mr. Jardine liked to shoot two or three days a week
+during the winter, so that opportunity to improve was not lacking. The
+quail, although inferior both in size and flavour to an English
+partridge, were a pleasant change of diet, and made an excellent curry,
+both for breakfast or dinner, a dish which was always much appreciated.
+A few days later, poor little Peter contracted a somewhat severe chill,
+and as on the next day he seemed worse rather than better, and his
+mother was anxious about him, I offered to ride in to San Jose to get
+him a supply of medicine, and also to execute some other little
+commissions which were needed, so I saddled up "Carnival" soon after
+mid-day and reached the town a little before four o'clock. I finished
+the shopping I had to do, and then took the opportunity of making my
+call upon Don Carlos Mendoza, the new Gefe Politico at his town
+residence, facing the "plaza," or square. On reaching the house, I sent
+in my name, and was at once admitted. Don Carlos received me in his own
+room, and as I entered rose to greet me, and expressed his pleasure at
+making my acquaintance. He was a short man, apparently about forty years
+of age with an alert manner, and a very pleasant expression. "Colonel
+Antonio Martinez wrote to me about you," he said with a smile. "He is
+'muy amigo mio,' 'a great friend of mine,' and is now holding a rather
+important appointment in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs." After a few
+minutes' conversation, he took me into the "sala," where he presented me
+to his Senora, a stately-looking lady, who, I afterwards learned, was a
+member of one of the oldest Spanish families in Monte Video. Five
+minutes later a pretty-looking girl, who might be about fourteen,
+entered the room. The Senora said, "This is my daughter, Carmen, and I
+have a son Alfonso, who is younger, and is now away at school." Don
+Carlos appeared to be well-acquainted with Europe, having been educated
+in Paris and Madrid, and both he and his wife had paid more than one
+visit to the French Riviera. The Senora asked me how I liked South
+America, and I told her very much, but added, "You see this is the only
+year of peace I have known since I came out from England, three years
+and a half ago." Meanwhile, coffee and cakes were brought in, and some
+delicious liqueur, and half an hour later I made my adieux. Don Carlos
+said I must certainly call and see them again, and asking me if I was a
+smoker remarked, "Here is a cigar from Habana for you," and accompanying
+me to the door, shook hands, saying, "Hasta la vista, Senor" (until we
+meet again).
+
+On reaching the hotel, I had some dinner, and much enjoyed the Habana
+cigar, which I knew to be too good a one to light and smoke in the open
+street. I went early to bed, with the request that they would call me at
+sunrise next morning. This they did, having also prepared me some
+coffee. So I saddled up "Carnival," and reached the estancia just before
+nine o'clock. I was pleased to hear from Mr. Jardine that Peter was
+better, having fortunately passed a good night. One afternoon I and
+Ramon Duran had ridden down to look up some cattle not far from Beatty's
+puesto. As we were returning he told me there was a big dun-coloured
+bull, not bearing the estancia mark, which for some time had taken up
+his abode among the "tarlas," at the far end of the camp, within easy
+reach of the river bank. He made a constant disturbance among our
+cattle, his object no doubt being to cut some of them off, and so get
+control over them, and then form a small point of his own. Ramon
+suggested that we should lasso him and kill him, and so get rid of the
+nuisance once and for all. He asked if I would like to go down and
+assist, and I said I should very much. However, we came to the
+conclusion it would be better to have three horsemen for the job, so the
+matter remained for the moment in abeyance. The next day he told me he
+had seen Robert Mackie, a young Scotchman, who had come out to Uruguay
+as a boy, and was already something of a camp man, accustomed to
+lassoing on the "rodeo," and working amongst cattle, who wished to join
+us in our little adventure. He, moreover, described him as "un joven muy
+guapo," "a very capable youth," so it was agreed we should all three go
+in search of the bull on Saturday afternoon. Ramon was to ride his
+favourite "picaso" (a black horse, with a white blaze and two white hind
+fetlocks), while Mackie would saddle up a "moro" (or blue roan), which
+he often rode, as it was well-trained, and a first-rate horse at that
+kind of work. I was to ride my "rosillo," so we were all to be
+well-mounted. Our first idea had been that if we came across the bull we
+should all three try and get round to the far side of him, with the
+object of driving him in among a point of our own cattle, but on
+consideration we determined to approach him from the direction we were
+ourselves riding, and then by acting quickly and suddenly, try and get a
+lasso round him before he had time to reach his favourite woods. We were
+riding quietly along, when we made out the bull standing feeding by
+himself, quite a long distance inside the camp, and away from the
+woods, whereupon we widened out our line into a kind of semi-circle,
+Ramon being on the left, with Mackie in the centre, while I took the
+right, so that we might approach as near to him as possible without
+causing any alarm. This method seemed to answer for, as it happened, we
+managed to get closer up to him than we had any reason to expect.
+Suddenly, however, up went his head, and he saw us coming, when he
+immediately made off as fast as he could. We then followed at full
+gallop, and Mackie, who was in the centre, pushed ahead of Ramon and
+myself, for the "moro" was a fast horse, and his rider both young and
+eager. Running his horse close up behind the bull, he threw his lasso,
+the loop of which, instead of going round the horns of the animal, as it
+should have done, passed over his head and round his neck, thus giving
+the bull a much greater power of purchase than he would otherwise have
+had. Then a most unfortunate thing happened. Mackie had his foot out of
+the stirrup on the lasso side, which was not by any means unusual, but
+he also had his leg rather far forward, and as the coils of the lasso
+went out swiftly, owing to the speed at which the bull was now running,
+one of them caught his right leg, entangling it just below the knee. It
+was now a question of speed between the horse and the bull, with a man's
+life hanging in the balance. Ramon and I could do nothing, for if either
+of us pressed forward we should only help to increase the speed of the
+bull. So we both slowed down, edging off one to the left and the other
+to the right, which was the only thing to do. Fortunately, the "moro"
+rose to the occasion. He never made a mistake, in spite of the ground
+being rough and uneven, but shooting forward at an increased speed, he
+enabled Mackie to get his leg free from the coil of the lasso, and so
+saved the situation. Ramon had called to Mackie to take out his knife
+from its sheath and cut the lasso, but when he put his hand behind him
+both knife and sheath had fallen from his belt during the gallop. Now
+Mackie was able to bring purchase, with his lasso, to bear upon the
+bull, who was also by this time getting a bit pumped, and compelled to
+slacken his speed, so that in a couple of hundred yards more he was able
+to bring him to a standstill. Ramon now came up and threw his lasso
+round the bull's hind legs, when both the lassos straining at the same
+time, and in opposite directions, the bull, now completely mastered, was
+compelled to fall helpless to the ground. Ramon then dismounted his
+"picaso," still carefully keeping up the strain of the lasso, as a good
+horse is trained to do, and taking out his knife from his belt gave the
+bull his "coup de grace." Mackie and Ramon were not long in taking off
+the hide, which they slung across the back of the "moro," behind
+Mackie's recado, when we returned quietly to the estancia, reaching it
+just after five o'clock.
+
+Winter had now come, bringing with it continued bad weather, accompanied
+by cold winds and constant showers of heavy rain. This went on more or
+less until the third week in June, when it cleared up; but the beginning
+of July ushered in rain heavier than before, the river overflowed its
+banks, and low-lying land was mostly covered with water. Fortunately, at
+La Esperanza, there was plenty of higher ground for stock to feed on,
+for the constant rain day after day, so filled the "banyados," usually
+quite small pieces of water, that they developed into something much
+more like an inland sea, flooding all the surrounding land for a foot
+deep, and in some places even more. The cattle were well able to look
+after themselves, but as the floods increased considerable care was
+necessary to keep the sheep from being surrounded by water, for when
+danger threatens they are stupid animals, easily frightened, and apt to
+get drowned. The bad weather continued until the middle of July,
+moderating during the third week, although still very unsettled.
+However, on the morning of the twenty-fifth, I started to ride to Colla,
+to receive a considerable sum of money which was owing to the estancia.
+Mr. Jardine wished me to take his "rosillo alazan" (or chestnut roan), a
+good horse, above the ordinary height, which he said would help to keep
+me out of the mud. The morning was fine, and I made an early start, for
+I wished to reach my destination without delay. Instead of using my
+"recado," I put the saddle which had been given as a prize at the
+Christmas race on the "rosillo," this being the kind to which he was
+accustomed. The river alongside the estancia had mostly run down, but
+when I reached the "Cufre," I found it more or less in flood. As,
+however, the water only reached up to the flaps of the saddle, I got
+across quite dry, always a comfort when travelling on horseback. The
+horse carried me well, and I reached Colla about three o'clock in the
+afternoon, the track being less soft and slippery than I expected. I put
+up at the Hotel de la Paz (Hotel of Peace), and then went out to receive
+the sum of money for which I had come. It was all in paper notes, some
+of them very dilapidated, and I was obliged to look them over carefully
+to assure myself they were all good currency. This reminded me of a
+little incident which had once happened to me when paying an account.
+The man receiving it was a native in good circumstances, but he could
+neither read or write. As I handed over a bundle of notes to him he
+said, "El buey es bueno pero la oveja no vale por nada," "The bullock is
+good, but the sheep is worth nothing," referring to the pictures of the
+animals printed on the notes I was about to pay him. To him nothing
+else mattered. Having given a receipt for the money, I rolled up the
+notes and put them into the large pockets of my carpincho skin belt, and
+when I got into the street, I took out my revolver, just to see that it
+was all right. I then returned to the hotel to see my horse was
+comfortable, had some supper, and went early to bed. It was then fine,
+with a young moon shining brightly, but I had not long got off to sleep
+when I was awakened by a loud banging and knocking at my door. Thinking
+it might be someone come after the money, I first got hold of my
+revolver, before going to see, but it was nothing more than a visitor
+who had been drinking too much wine and failed to find his proper
+bedroom. It somehow seemed to me that the name of the hotel did not
+clearly describe its character. I awoke to find the sky dull and cloudy,
+and a very cold wind blowing from the south. I succeeded in getting some
+hot coffee, with bread and butter. I then saddled up, paid my bill, and
+made a start. When I got away from the town, I found the track very
+muddy and slippery. The "rosillo" was a good horse, who could pick his
+way carefully, and I was obliged to travel slowly. As I passed along,
+the country on either side looked dreary and desolate. Such cattle as I
+saw stood grouped with their backs to the cold wind, while the sheep
+were mostly huddled together, their fleeces wet and sodden with the
+rain. When I reached the river Cufre, I found the water high and
+swollen, having evidently come down a good deal during the night. I
+entered it as far up the bank as the pass would permit, so as to leave
+me as much room as possible to land on the other side, in case the water
+should be deeper in the middle than I expected. This turned out to be
+the case, for my horse lost his feet for a moment, gave a violent
+plunge, and I got wet through right up to my waist. However, he was not
+really nervous, and recovering himself, succeeding in making a landing a
+little lower down, so that we both reached the opposite side with
+nothing worse than a bit of a ducking. My first thought was about the
+money. My "carpincho" skin belt, which contained it was, of course,
+having been under water, soaked through and through; it was all in paper
+notes, many of them much worn and dilapidated, and I knew if I left them
+where they were they would soon turn into pulp, and become quite
+worthless. Moreover, to make things worse, it all of a sudden commenced
+to rain. Looking round, about half a mile distant on some higher ground
+to the right, I saw what appeared to be a small place belonging to a
+native. There were only two or three mud ranchos, with half a dozen
+poplar trees standing near them, but from one of the low chimneys I saw
+smoke rising. I thereupon determined to make straight for it, and see if
+I could get permission to dry the notes by the fire. It was not a very
+pleasant idea, as I was, of course, quite ignorant as to who might be
+inside, and my revolver, in case I were attacked for the sake of the
+somewhat large sum of money I carried, was now probably useless, owing
+to having been so saturated with water. However, I made up my mind to
+take the risk, and rode up. A dog barked loudly as usual, and a dark,
+middle-aged woman came to the door. I told her what had happened, and
+asked permission to dry the notes, saying I should be glad to pay for
+the use of the fire. To this she kindly agreed; indeed, from her manner
+I thought she seemed sorry for the plight in which I found myself. "You
+seem very wet, Senor," she said, "would you not like to dry some of your
+clothes as well?" I thanked her, but declined, saying they did not
+matter, as I wished to continue my journey without unnecessary delay,
+but I asked if I might lay my revolver down by the side of the fire as
+I feared it might be a bit damp, in case I should happen to need it
+before reaching home, for I had a good long way to go, and it might get
+dark. She smiled at this, and said I was fortunate to have come up to
+the house when I did, for only half an hour before three native Gauchos
+had ridden away, all fully armed, and two of them, she remarked, would
+murder anyone with any money as soon as look at them, for they were
+notorious bad characters, and had been in the hands of the police more
+than once already, supposed to have been connected with something of the
+kind. While she was talking, I succeeded in getting the notes fairly
+dry, and rolled them up in my pocket handkerchief, and placed them
+carefully in the large inside breast pocket of my jacket which, however,
+was scarcely big enough to hold them, but I was able to manage it by
+packing them tightly together, and now they were once more dry this did
+not matter. I realised it would have been more prudent to have done this
+before I entered the river. One is always apt to think of things only
+when it is too late! I thanked the woman for what she had done for me,
+and gave her a small present. "Muchas gracias Senor y adios" (many
+thanks, Sir, and good-bye). "Keep a sharp look-out on anyone you may
+happen to meet," she said, as I remounted and rode away. Fortunately,
+the rain had now ceased, and even a gleam of cold and fitful sunshine
+seemed every now and then to struggle to make itself felt at the edge of
+a heavy cloud. The track was extremely muddy, and slippery, but the
+"rosillo" took it all in good part, for he well knew he was going home.
+When we came to our own river, next to the estancia, I found it
+considerably higher than on the previous day, but we managed to get
+across all right, and I rode up to the house as the cold afternoon was
+passing, and the winter light was just beginning to fade.
+
+One morning at breakfast, early in August, Mr. Jardine told us he had
+heard from Mr. Herbert Fraser, and his brother Frederick, two young
+Englishmen, now staying in Monte Video, where they had broken their
+journey for a time, their intention being to go on by sea to Valparaiso,
+through the Straits of Magellan. They had brought letters of
+introduction to him from England, and he proposed to invite them out to
+La Esperanza for a short visit, so that they might have a little
+shooting. They arrived during the week following by diligence at San
+Jose, and the carriage was sent in there to bring them on to the
+estancia. They brought their own guns and cartridges with them, and
+seemed keen about sport. They were the type of young men with ample
+means to be found travelling for pleasure, not quite knowing at any
+particular time what they would do next. The morning after they arrived
+we drove in the wagonette to the end of some large swamps, on one side
+of the estate, with a boy in attendance to look after the horses, and on
+reaching the first lagoon we sent the Frasers to the further end, Mr.
+Dampier and I wading among the reeds along either side, with two men in
+the centre acting as beaters. The water generally did not come above our
+knees, but the thick weeds caused slow progress. There are three sorts
+of duck, the native names for which are the "picaso," the "baroso," and
+the "ovaro" duck. The first is the largest, with handsome black and
+white plumage, the "baroso" is a description of pintail, male and female
+being of a uniform brown colour, with yellow bills. The "ovaro" duck,
+known for its beautiful variegated plumage, is not nearly so common as
+the other two. It is also very wary, but when bagged is the best for the
+table. First rose half a dozen "picaso" ducks, and Mr. Dampier and I
+each getting a shot, one fell to each barrel. Next came a brace of
+teal, both easy shots, which I missed badly, but my companion brought
+down his bird. A flight of "barosos" came flying cross ways, but
+wheeling round, passed over the heads of the Frasers at the farther end,
+who brought down three of them in first-rate style. A little further on
+a pair of swans rose hurriedly, out of range for us, but although a long
+shot, one fell to our friend's gun, tumbling into the water with a
+tremendous splash. We then shot over some grass land for partridge,
+walking in line and beating them up, and in less than two hours we
+bagged nine brace. We afterwards went on to two of the other lagoons,
+where we met with success, so we drove home well-contented with our
+day's sport. Among the larger birds the ostrich merits the first place.
+It is not a true ostrich, but a "rhea," and its feathers and plumes are
+comparatively but of small value. Of large waders, several species of
+herons are found. Storks and the little egret are common, while the rosy
+spoon-bill and flamingo, although very shy, are seen occasionally. There
+are two kinds of eagle, and many different species of hawk. Snipe are
+plentiful during the winter months, being found in swampy lagoons and
+small streams; they are usually fat, and excellent eating. There are two
+kinds of teal, a blue and a brown, both of which are abundant. Golden
+plover and sandpipers abound, and as you ride along the spur-winged
+plover, or "pteru-pteru" rises with its shrill cry, and wheels round and
+round over one's head. Quite a number of small birds inhabit the
+country, and the plumage of some of them is very beautiful. There is the
+scissor-bird, with its curious tail; the oven-bird, which will make a
+round nest of mud, often as large as a man's head, on the top of a
+gatepost, quite close to a house where people are constantly passing;
+and others, with all the varying shades of yellow and black. Large
+flocks of the small green grey-breasted parakeet take up their abode in
+the woods, and make the whole place resound with their chatterings. A
+species of wood-dove is also very common, and affords good sport.
+Amongst the numerous spiders is the "tarantula," which is alarming, and
+its bite venomous, also another equally large grey spider, which is very
+pugnacious, and will jump up at you when disturbed. There is also a
+minute insect of the nature of a harvest-bug, called the "bicho
+colorado" (or red insect), which abounds during hot weather in summer,
+but disappears during the winter, and when the temperature is cold. It
+is a great nuisance, burying itself in one's skin, and causing great
+itching and irritation, and often producing sores on the human body by
+no means easy to heal. Mosquitos and flies of course are numerous,
+particularly near woods, and especially near water. There are several
+kinds of snakes, amongst them the coral snake, which is venomous, and a
+pretty little green snake, which hangs by its tail from the branches of
+a tree, so exactly like the green pod of a flowering creeper that it is
+difficult to tell one from the other. The Frasers stayed a fortnight at
+La Esperanza, getting several days' good shooting. They then returned to
+Monte Video, apparently well pleased with their visit.
+
+September had now come, the sunny spring-time of the Southern
+Hemisphere. It was more than a year since I left the Pichinango, and I
+made up my mind to return to England. When I bade good-bye to Mr.
+Treherne at San Jose, he told me to be sure and write and let him know
+whenever I should think of doing so, as he thought it would be a great
+pity were I to leave South America without seeing Buenos Aires. So I
+wrote him a letter to say I should be leaving La Esperanza towards the
+end of the month, with the intention of taking my passage in some
+steamer, leaving shortly for Europe. About ten days later, I received a
+reply suggesting that I should pay him a few days' visit at his quinta,
+(or villa, with a garden), situate in the then outskirts of Buenos
+Aires, and fix the day of my arrival just as I might find to be most
+convenient. I wrote at once to say what pleasure it gave me to take
+advantage of his kind proposal, promising to write again when I could
+tell him exactly when I hoped to arrive. He also mentioned that the
+S.S. "Dido" would be leaving Buenos Aires on or about October
+11th, in case I should think her a likely ship to suit me. On the Monday
+following I rode "Carnival" in to San Jose, and I took the opportunity
+to call again upon Don Carlos Mendoza, whom I was fortunate enough to
+find at home. We had some interesting conversation as to the prospects
+of the new Blanco Government, and the future of the country, and when we
+parted he expressed the hope that some day or somewhere he might have
+the pleasure of seeing me again. He was a nice man, and gave me the
+impression of being intellectual and cultivated, and I felt very glad to
+have had the pleasure of making his acquaintance. Colonel Gonzales and
+his two daughters were away paying a visit to their estancia. I got back
+in good time next morning, for "Carnival" carried me well. He was a
+good, reliable horse, and I felt sorry to think my rides on him were so
+soon to come to an end. I now fixed up my plans for departure, and wrote
+again to Mr. Treherne that I expected to leave La Esperanza on Tuesday,
+September 28th, for San Jose, go on from there by diligence to Monte
+Video, and travel by what was known as the river steamer, on the last
+evening of the month, arriving at Buenos Aires early the following
+morning. The first thing I did was to send my "rosillo," whom I had with
+me during the war, back again to the Pichinango, where for some years he
+led a pleasant, easy life, and ultimately died at a good old age Mr.
+Jardine said he should like to have "Carnival," and that he would take
+good care of him. For this I was glad, for I felt sure the horse would
+suit him in every way. I gave my dog "Napoleon" to Ramon Duran, who
+promised to treat him well. He was first-rate with cattle, and I wished
+him to go where he would be appreciated. Meanwhile, I sent my luggage to
+the Hotel Oriental in a cart which was going out to San Jose, keeping
+only what I could easily carry on horseback. When the day came to say
+good-bye, I thanked them all for their kindness and for having done so
+much to make my stay at La Esperanza such a pleasant one. Early in the
+afternoon I saddled up the grey, taking a boy on another horse with me
+to bring him back. And so ended a year which will always be to me a very
+enjoyable recollection. It was a fine afternoon, and as we rode quietly
+along the sun felt quite warm, so that we did not reach the hotel until
+just about five o'clock. I found my belongings there waiting for me, and
+not long afterwards the diligence arrived from Paysandu. It had come in
+somewhat earlier than usual, for the roads were now good, and probably
+the team of horses which were being quickly taken out, were better than
+usual. Immediately afterwards dinner was served. I chose a quiet seat,
+and sat on for a while just to smoke a contemplative pipe with my
+coffee, and to ponder over the events of the day. I had been very happy
+at La Esperanza, and one cannot help feeling regret when an agreeable
+time has come to an end. I then went to bed, instructing them to call me
+the first thing in the morning. I was up betimes, and able to see the
+boy start back to the estancia with the horses, and also to see to my
+things before the horses were harnessed up to the diligence, and all
+ready for a start. There were only half a dozen passengers, so there was
+plenty of room, and we rolled and rumbled along much as we had done now
+nearly four years previously, when I went out to Guaycoru to stay with
+my friend, Robert Royd, at Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo, little knowing all
+that lay before me. When we reached Monte Video, I made my way to the
+Hotel Oriental, feeling somewhat weary and tired, but a good sleep was
+all that was needed to make me feel completely restored. I had a little
+business to attend to during the day, and the late afternoon found me on
+board the river steamer, soon about to get under weigh, with her bows
+heading in the direction of Buenos Aires. It was more or less a twelve
+hours' run, and I came on deck next morning to find we were just about
+to let go our anchor; although still some distance from the shore. There
+were various methods of landing at the port of Buenos Aires in the good
+old days. The big ocean steamers lay at anchor in the estuary, from
+eight to ten miles distant from the land. Passengers were passed first
+into a tug, then into an open boat, whence they sometimes had to be
+shifted into a cart; indeed, it was not uncommon to carry them ashore on
+men's backs. However, a small steam launch came alongside and took the
+passengers aboard, afterwards transferring us to an open boat, so we
+reached the landing-place quite comfortably. I then got a carriage,
+which carried me and my belongings on to "Bella Vista," that being the
+name of Mr. Treherne's quinta. He came to meet me as I drove up, with a
+very kindly welcome and many enquiries after Mr. and Mrs. Jardine and
+all at La Esperanza. It was a roomy, comfortable house, with two wide
+verandahs, facing north and west. The garden was just entering upon its
+spring beauty, and would soon be a blaze of colour. The mimosa trees
+were just coming into flower, as also the paradise trees, with their
+purple blossom. That of the wistaria was already out, hanging in
+profusion all along the verandah, while a little further away was a
+long low hedge, thickly covered with "plumbago," and here and there a
+pomegranate. There were several kinds of palms and flowering cacti, and
+on the house itself was a magnificent magnolia, already covered with
+buds. The rose trees were an especial care, and some were even now
+beginning to flower. Moreover, there was provision for ample watering
+during hot weather. Breakfast was served at 11.30 in the wide verandah.
+Early in the afternoon my host took me into the town. I went first to
+the shipping office, and was afterwards to meet him at the "Strangers'
+Club," where he kindly said he would introduce me. I found the
+S.S. "Dido" to be a steamer of moderate size, bound for
+Antwerp, calling at Rio de Janeiro and Lisbon, and also at Southampton,
+to land her English passengers. She did not carry many, but hearing she
+was well-found, and reputed to be a good sea-boat, and finding a
+comfortable cabin was at disposal, I at once decided to take my passage
+in her. So the whole matter was easily settled. I found the "Club" very
+comfortable and well-arranged. Those who knew Buenos Aires at the time
+of which I write would indeed wonder at the beautiful city they would
+find to-day. The streets were then rough and ill-paved. The drainage was
+scanty and bad, and when it rained heavily the water poured like a
+torrent down the principal streets. But even then there were beautiful
+shops, and well-appointed carriages, with silver-mounted harness, so
+beloved of Spaniards, were quite a distinctive feature, and a great
+contrast to the rough and, uneven roads over which they were compelled
+to travel. The great net-work of railways which now traverses the
+republic was then a thing undreamed of, for the Buenos Aires Great
+Southern Railway, first among its fellows, then extended but a short
+way into the open country. Beyond it the wide "Pampas," the home of the
+roving Indian, with troops of wild mares, together with deer and
+ostrich, rolled into distance like waves of the sea, stretching one upon
+another far away into the great unknown. My visit proved agreeable, and
+I felt sorry when it came to an end. However, on Saturday, I was
+informed that the S.S. "Dido" had to pick up a late consignment
+of cargo at Monte Video, and would not leave Buenos Aires until late on
+Monday afternoon. Further, that the tug which was to take passengers on
+board, would leave the landing stage punctually at three o'clock, on
+October 11th. Mr. Treherne went with me to the place of embarkation, and
+we were both ready waiting there nearly half an hour before the
+appointed time. The tide was favourable, and there happened to be plenty
+of water. All was now ready to shove off, so I said good-bye to my host,
+with many thanks for his kindness, stepped on board the tug, and we at
+once got under weigh. The afternoon was beautifully fine as we hauled up
+alongside the steamer, which, her blue Peter flying at the fore, was due
+to reach Monte Video at daylight on the following morning. Dinner was
+served in the saloon at five o'clock. We were then steaming along in
+smooth water, so everything was steady. There were five passengers for
+Southampton besides myself. One of them, Mr. Philip Payne, took his seat
+beside me at table. He was a young man, perhaps a little older than I
+was, of middle height, with an active figure, with light brown hair, and
+grey eyes. I found out he was the son of a country clergyman and, after
+learning a little farming in England, had come out to South America with
+the well-known Henley Colony. When this undertaking, owing to Indian
+raids, and other circumstances, turned out to be a complete failure, he
+went round to Chile, through the Straits of Magellan, and at the end of
+the previous summer had come back again to Argentina, across the Andes,
+on mules, with a troop of Indians, then considered to be something of an
+adventure. When I came on deck next morning, a lighter, with cargo was
+already alongside, and the city of Monte Video lay glistening in the
+bright sunshine, much as I first saw it four years ago. I did not go
+ashore, for we were due to leave soon after mid-day, and the early
+afternoon found us again under easy steam, with a light breeze and a
+calm sea, and the ship's head pointing northwards. I now made the
+acquaintance of the other four passengers, a Mr. and Mrs. West, with
+their son Herbert, aged fourteen, and daughter Rose, a girl of ten. He
+told me he was an engineer by profession, and had come out to Argentina
+in delicate health, hoping the climate might benefit him, and that he
+might obtain suitable employment. Neither of these had been fulfilled,
+and I felt sorry to see him returning to England after a time which must
+have been to them one of disappointment. Mrs. West, too, looked anything
+but strong. Their son Herbert, was lame, having had a somewhat serious
+accident to his hip, but his parents hoped that if he went under proper
+treatment in England the difficulty would be overcome. Four days later,
+early in the morning, land was sighted, and by eight o'clock we were
+passing beneath the famous "Sugar Loaf," a high, conical-shaped hill,
+which guards the entrance to Rio de Janeiro. As we steamed slowly up to
+our anchorage the city lay to the left, its houses rising tier after
+tier up the hillsides, the whole overshadowed by the great "Corcovado,"
+a mountain which lay behind. To the right the magnificent harbour, with
+many a beautiful island and many a beautiful bay, stretched some ten
+miles southward towards "Petropolis." We were not due to sail until
+evening, so Payne and I had ample time to go on shore. We first amused
+ourselves walking through the town and making some purchases at the
+famous feather flower shop in the Rua d'Ouvidor. We then took the
+tramway and drove out to see the wonderful Avenue of Palms, supposed to
+be perhaps one of the finest in the world. Gay plumaged birds were
+flying to and fro, and bright coloured butterflies were hovering hither
+and thither, as we slowly walked between the long line of beautiful
+trees, the lovely plumes of which, as they hung down in clusters, fairly
+shimmered in the hot sunshine of that early afternoon. We got back on
+board soon after four o'clock, both of us ready for a wash and brush up,
+and for dinner when the bell rang. The sun had already set as the
+S.S. "Dido" was fast getting clear of the land, and I stood on
+deck and watched the shadows of the distant mountains in the fading
+light, and I realised I was now taking my last look at South America.
+Four Brazilian passengers had embarked at Rio de Janeiro for Lisbon, for
+which port we had also taken in a certain amount of cargo. We had fine
+weather and a good voyage, sighting land on November 8th, and passing up
+the Tagus soon after nine o'clock. We let go our anchor lower down the
+river than we might have done, and at some distance from the town.
+Lighters at once came alongside to take off the cargo, and the four
+Brazilian passengers were landed in the agents' boat. All this took
+place with very little delay. Indeed, our captain wished to get to sea
+again as soon as possible. So neither Payne nor I thought it worth while
+to go ashore. We got under weigh soon after three o'clock, and it was
+not long before a thick fog came on, which compelled us to slow down.
+Later in the evening the fog grew thicker, so that the ship had to be
+stopped for a time, and all through the night we made very slow
+progress. The following day the fog came on again, even thicker than
+before, but cleared towards evening, so that we could proceed on our
+course something under half speed. The morning of Wednesday was again
+foggy, clearing towards the afternoon, but the sky remained heavy and
+overhung with thick cloud, so that no observation could be obtained, and
+the ship had be navigated only by dead reckoning. The West family seemed
+very depressed, but my friend and I were accustomed to difficulties, and
+we made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would permit. The two
+following days the sun was again obscured by cloud, but we were able to
+go ahead full speed. On Saturday evening the captain considered we might
+be somewhere abreast of Ushant, but here we fell into what are known in
+the Channel as thick belts of fog. These are always very confusing and
+misleading, as the thick mist comes down like a curtain, enveloping
+everything, and rising and falling very rapidly. The ship had constantly
+to stop, and never could steam more than four knots an hour, and very
+often less. These conditions prevailed during Sunday, and we crept along
+gradually, as it were, feeling our way. Every precaution was taken, a
+sharp look-out was kept forward, a sailor being also stationed in the
+fore-top, while two men were continually in the chains, taking the depth
+of the water, and the foghorn was kept constantly going as well. About
+five o'clock, the dinner bell had just rung, Payne and I were standing
+by the port rail, looking over the side, near the after hatchway. A
+curtain of fog which had come thickly down was just lifting, when a cry
+rang out from the look-out forward, "Breakers ahead." Then came the
+order from the captain on the bridge, "_Hard a port!_" A second later
+the fog lifted further, and there alongside rose the precipitous rocky
+face of the "Bill of Portland." It looked almost as if you could throw a
+biscuit ashore. There was no wind, and the sea was gently lapping up
+against the base of the high cliff. Payne put his hand on my shoulder,
+"Look there," he said, "that is the place to swim for, where you see the
+grass growing down almost to the water's edge." In a moment it was all
+over, land and sea being once more completely enveloped in fog.
+Fortunately the ship had sufficient weigh on her to enable her to answer
+her helm, and she at once came round to starboard, when all danger was
+past. Mr. and Mrs. West were down in the saloon, and knew nothing of
+what had happened, nor did we either of us mention one word about it. We
+made slow progress during the night, but when daylight appeared, the sky
+was clear, and when I came on deck about nine o'clock, we were just
+about to pass inside the "Needles." We then steamed leisurely up the
+Solent, the tide was favourable, so that we got alongside the landing
+stage, and were able to go ashore soon after eleven. I then bid good-bye
+to my friend Payne, and having collected my belongings, got them
+conveyed to the railway station, where I took the first train to London,
+and so ended my experiences of "Old days among the Gauchos of Uruguay."
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+    +-----------------------------------------------+
+    |             Transcriber's Note:               |
+    |                                               |
+    | Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the  |
+    | original document have been preserved.        |
+    |                                               |
+    | Title Page: The tilde over the u in Gauchos   |
+    | is represented like so: Ga[~u]chos            |
+    |                                               |
+    | Typographical errors corrected in the text:   |
+    |                                               |
+    | Page  22  soliders changed to soldiers        |
+    | Page  22  spoonsful changed to spoonfuls      |
+    | Page  29  knowledged changed to knowledge     |
+    | Page  59  Dr. changed to Mr.                  |
+    | Page  67  lover changed to lower              |
+    | Page  68  fenecs changed to fences            |
+    | Page  70  attentiton changed to attention     |
+    | Page  71  somewhate changed to somewhat       |
+    | Page  76  Dcember changed to December         |
+    | Page  94  Nothting changed to Nothing         |
+    | Page  94  togethed changed to together        |
+    | Page  98  he changed to the                   |
+    | Page 101  Gaiten changed to Gaitan            |
+    | Page 115  terrior changed to terrier          |
+    | Page 116  cartmen changed to cartman          |
+    | Page 116  believed changed to believe         |
+    | Page 120  th changed to the                   |
+    | Page 135  is changed to in                    |
+    | Page 136  in added between standing and each  |
+    | Page 146  workisg changed to working          |
+    | Page 150  wih changed to with                 |
+    | Page 156  it in changed to in it              |
+    | Page 167  interefering changed to interfering |
+    | Page 180  in added between growing and it     |
+    | Page 187  One changed to On                   |
+    | Page 189  me changed to we                    |
+    | Page 197  waggonette changed to wagonette     |
+    | Page 198  specie changed to species           |
+    | Page 203  allong changed to along             |
+    | Page 204  myslf changed to myself             |
+    +-----------------------------------------------+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Blanco y Colorado, by William C. Tetley
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