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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/36534-8.txt b/36534-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1563e0e --- /dev/null +++ b/36534-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6017 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Blanco y Colorado, by William C. Tetley + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Blanco y Colorado + Old Days among the Gauchos of Uruguay + +Author: William C. Tetley + +Release Date: June 26, 2011 [EBook #36534] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLANCO Y COLORADO *** + + + + +Produced by Barbara Kosker, Adrian Mastronardi and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + + BLANCO Y COLORADO + + + + + BLANCO Y COLORADO + + OLD DAYS AMONG THE + GA[~U]CHOS OF URUGUAY + + + + + BY + + WILLIAM C. TETLEY + + + + + F. R. HOCKLIFFE + 86 & 88, HIGH STREET, BEDFORD + + LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, + HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD. + + 1921 + + + + +PREFACE + +The following pages contain the writer's personal experiences in the +"Republic of Uruguay" during a revolution in what are now known as the +"Old Days." + +If they enable the reader to understand what life in that country really +meant at that time, the object of this book will then be attained. + + W. C. T. + + The Close, Wavendon, + Woburn Sands, + Bucks. + + July, 1919. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + PART I. LAS SIERRAS DE MAL ABRIGO 9 + + PART II. EL CERRO DEL PICHINANGO 68 + + PART III. LA ESTANCIA ESPERANZA 169 + + + + +BLANCO Y COLORADO. + + + + +PART I. + +LAS SIERRAS DE MAL ABRIGO. + + +The clock of the "Cathedral de la Matrix" was striking ten on a lovely +morning in October, when our signal gun was fired, and the anchor of the +S.S. "Copernicus" let go to find bottom in the muddy waters of +La Plata. + +On the right the town of Monte Video, with its whitewashed "azotea," or +flat-roofed houses, glistened in the bright sunshine; to the left the +broad estuary stretched away towards the open sea; while in front of us +the famous Cerro, a gently sloping hill, looked green and fresh and +pleasant after our long sea voyage. The tug which brought off the +Medical Officer of Health did not delay long before coming alongside, +when permission was given to the passengers to land, and I soon found +myself standing with my baggage on the Custom House wharf, and having +duly passed it, made my way to the "Hotel Oriental." + +Here I enquired when a diligence would leave for the interior, which +would take me within reasonable distance of my friend's estancia, whom I +had come out to visit, which I believed to be situate about thirty-three +leagues, or one hundred miles, up country. I was informed that it was to +leave the next morning, but that, as it started from a "fonda," or inn, +outside the town at 5 a.m., it would be necessary to sleep there, +otherwise I should certainly miss it. At this time the diligence was +the only public conveyance traversing the country, a railway being as +yet unthought of. So I ordered some dinner at the "Hotel Oriental," and +occupied the interval by having a look round the city. I was much +pleased with the straight, wide streets, running at right angles, by the +size and importance of the public buildings, and by many of the private +houses, often opening on to a "plaza," or square, prettily planted with +trees and flowering shrubs. But I was most impressed by the variety and +beauty of the excellent shops, which I could hardly have expected to +find in a South American town at that time, so remote from Europe. I +also saw more than one of the famous "quintas," or villas, with large +grounds, where semi-tropical flowers can be seen in all their beauty, +and palms and magnolias everywhere flourish. + +I arrived at the inn whence the diligence started at 9 p.m. The +proprietor received me with courtesy, and shewed me my bedroom, which +was small and not very clean; but it had a window opening on the street, +so I could get plenty of air. Some natives were making a noise in the +bar below, where they had doubtless been drinking, and seemed inclined +to quarrel. I gave instructions to be called, and the last thing I heard +as I dropped off to sleep was the cry of the "sereno," or +night-watchman, whose business it was, during the night, to call the +time and state of the weather every half hour. A loud rapping at my door +awoke me in time to look up my baggage and drink some hot coffee, before +a start was made. Dawn was fast breaking in the East as five horses and +three mules were being harnessed up, four abreast, to the old wooden +diligence, which carried the mails and baggage piled on its top, the +passengers sitting facing each other on hard wooden seats inside. In +front, beneath a wooden shelter, sat the driver, with room for one +passenger beside him. The diligence was heavily built, with large broad +wooden wheels, and there were no springs. In front rode a native on +horseback, with his lasso made fast to the leading horses, so that he +was able to guide the course of the diligence. His was an office of +importance, and he was called the "quartia dor." The team was evidently +well accustomed to the streets, so we rumbled heavily along, passed +suburb and quinta, until houses became less frequent, and by the end of +the first stage had ceased to appear; and we then saw before us the +rolling plains of Uruguay. A word as to my fellow-passengers. Four were +apparently business men, probably buyers of produce, one of whom spoke +French, and kindly gave me information as we went along. The fifth was +an officer, in a lieutenant's uniform. Reaching the end of our first +stage, we found another team shut up in a yard, waiting. This time they +were all horses, diverse in colour, wilder, and more spirited than the +others. But they were soon harnessed up, and we quickly got under weigh, +the driver now increasing our speed. As we descended a decline we went +mostly at full gallop, to get across the mud in the stream at the +bottom, and so have a good impetus for the rise on the other side, the +old diligence, which had seen much service, swaying and rolling like a +ship in a sea-way. By eleven o'clock we reached Santa Lucia, then only a +village, with one so-called hotel, and a straggling street of native +huts. Here we waited for an hour for breakfast: meat, boiled and roast, +with vegetables; bread, cheese, and coffee, which we much appreciated. +Then, with four new passengers and a fresh team of horses, we made a +start for the town of San José, where we were to stop for the night. As +we proceeded, the country opened out before us on every side, the +rolling plain, with here and there a clump of trees to mark some native +estancia, where a flock of sheep, and also cattle, could be seen feeding +in absolute freedom, for there were no fences or divisions of any kind, +neither was there anything in the way of cultivation. Occasionally a +native came into view, galloping after a troop of horses, his poncho +fluttering in the wind, and then, as he passed over a roll of the plain, +like some phantom, would seem to disappear. The afternoon was drawing to +a close when we saw far in front of us the golden rays of the now +fast-declining sun reflected on the cupola of the large church, flanking +the principal square of the country town of San José. Gradually the +houses rise up on the horizon, and half an hour later we drive up with +the usual flourish in front of the "Hotel Oriental." It was apparently +an old house, situate in the main street. We dined in a long low room, +with the addition of soup and a sweet, much as we had breakfasted. +Within its walls more than one murder had been planned, and many a +political "cabale" concocted; indeed, I was told that at the very table +where I sat an officer was dining with some boon companions. When +sipping their coffee he turned to them and said, "Tengo rabia voy à +matar un Gringo," "I feel in a rage, I am going to kill a foreigner." He +went straight out, and turning up the street, met an Italian stonemason +returning home from work. He pierced him through with his sword, and, +walking off to where he had left his horse, mounted, and rode away. The +poor man died, but the matter was hushed up, and nothing more was heard +about it. I soon went to bed, feeling tired, and my limbs ached from the +bumping and confinement of the diligence for so many hours. + +In the morning we started early. The sun was just rising above the +horizon as we left the outskirts of San José, and made for the open +plain, unbroken, save by the dull grey line which alone seemed to mark +the "camino real," or Government road. At eleven o'clock we stopped at a +pulperia, or store, for some breakfast, and for fresh horses, which were +ready waiting for us. They were a wilder lot this time, and a chestnut +and a piebald especially gave trouble, at first refusing to be +harnessed. Once started, however, they had nothing for it but to settle +down, aided by a free application of the driver's whip. Just before two +o'clock we reached Guaycoru, where my journey by diligence ended; this +being the nearest point to my friend's estancia. Gathering together my +saddle, bridle and light baggage, I entered the pulperia, or store, to +enquire in what direction my friend's estancia lay, and how far off it +was. The pulpero, or storekeeper, fortunately could speak a little +French, which was a great help. He was very polite, pointed out the +direction, saying it was only between five and six miles distant, and +was situate at the far end of some rocky country which stretched out +before us. He offered to supply me with a couple of horses, one for +myself and another for my baggage, and to send a rather +ruffianly-looking mulatto, half Spanish and half negro, his face badly +pitted with small pox, to act as guide, and also to bring back the +horses. He soon appeared with a bay, a grey, and a piebald, and I at +once occupied myself fitting my saddle and bridle on the former, and not +apparently to his satisfaction. The headstall of the bridle was too +long, the girths of the saddle too short; but at last I got them to +meet, and, slinging my belongings over the back of the piebald and +mounting his grey, my attendant made a start, and I followed a few paces +behind. Our departure being watched with great interest by the pulpero +and his family. We had not gone far when we got in among the rocks, or +"sierras," as they were called, lying in long large masses, not very +high except in places; although, often rising well above one's head as +you rode along through the breaks between. Owing to the shelter thus +afforded, this district was noted as being the resort of robbers. The +lay of the land favoured these gentlemen, as they could easily hide both +their horses and themselves among the rocks during the day, and then go +out with the moon at night to kill a young cow, or steal a horse, as +their fancy took them. They were not a pleasant lot to have to do with, +and I could see that my not understanding Spanish alone prevented my +dark-skinned guide from duly expatiating upon the dangers of the road. +Meanwhile, the sun was declining, and there was no wind. You could +hardly hear a sound, and a weird creepy kind of feeling came over me as +we entered a passage between two large rocks, higher and steeper than +hitherto, which seemed to twist and turn so that I could not help +wondering when and where we were going to come out. Every now and then +we came across a few cattle, which made off hurriedly as we approached, +and when we happened to see a horse or two they instantly got out of +sight round some turn of the rocks, evidently well-known to them, but +which seemed to me an all but impossible path. And so we kept jogging +along, until the rocks got smaller and fewer, and at length we came out +into a piece of open country, where a large flock of sheep were quietly +grazing, their faces apparently set, as their custom is at eventide, +towards home. About half a mile in front of us was the estancia whither +we were bound, quiet and peaceful as I first saw it in the rays of the +now setting sun. An azotea, or flat-roofed house, whitewashed outside; +near it two large "ombus," a tree much valued for its shade; to the left +three or four "ranchos," or huts, the walls of mud, the roofs of a reed +called "paja"; on one side a yard for sheep, and on the other a large +corral, in which to shut in horses and cattle; it did not look +imposing, but I saw it all with interest as being for me a resting +place, and with pleasure, for I had now reached the end of my long +journey. My friend, Robert Royd, saw me riding up, and came out to +welcome me. He had a fall from his horse, and sprained his knee, so was +prevented coming in to Monte Video to meet me, as he had hoped to do. I +was glad to see him again. I had known him in England when life held out +a different prospect for him, and we had neither of us heard of Uruguay. +How he came to be located at Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo he could hardly +have told you himself. He went out for a voyage to Monte Video, took a +fancy to the country and its climate, and to the open-air life, made up +his mind to set up as an estanciero in a small way, and here he was. I +had now to make the acquaintance of another person, Mr. Henry Marsh, +called by the natives Henriquez. He had exchanged life in a merchant's +office in London for a similar position in Mexico, where he had met with +misfortune. He had drifted down the coast, first to Pernambuco, and +afterwards to Monte Video, where he at length found himself without +money or friends. Royd happened to come across him, and taking a fancy +to him, brought him up country to look after a flock of sheep. He was a +pleasant little man, a regular cockney through and through. He became +somewhat plaintive whenever he talked of the past, and was apt to be +nervous and over-anxious; but he was willing and obliging, and always +glad to help in any way he could. He professed to understand and rather +to like Spaniards, but he was really in mortal fear of a native, and he +never went out far without a large revolver, and also a big knife stuck +in his belt behind, neither of which formidable weapons would he have +been at all willing to use. When I arrived, a Frenchman, whom we called +Pedro, was acting as cook. He was not at all fond of soap and water, nor +did he take much pride in the culinary art, for he apparently gave us an +endless succession of mutton chops. But however early you wanted to make +a start in the morning, he was always ready with hot coffee, and would +get you some food at almost any hour of the day. So as our movements +were often erratic, there were compensations. A native "peon," or +servant, and a boy to get up horses, completed the establishment. As +regards the stock, there were the flock of sheep before mentioned, about +nine hundred in number, and another larger one of about fifteen hundred, +towards the other end of the estancia, at a "puesto," as it was called +in the direction, but to the West of the pulperia of Guaycoru, where I +had first arrived in the diligence. The country was open there, being +outside the "sierras," and a young Englishman called Charles Bent had +arranged to take charge of this flock not long before I came upon the +scene. He was a nice young fellow, with fair hair and blue eyes. He had +a quick temper, but a kind heart. Having learnt farming in England in +the usual kind of way, he came out to Uruguay. He had some capital, +which he invested in sheep, and renting land up towards the Rio Negro, +started on his own account. But he was without South American +experience, and he had also bad luck: many of his sheep were stolen, +others died of disease, and after about three years his money had +vanished, and he was compelled, like others, to earn his living; so he +took to the usual occupation of looking after a flock of sheep. He was +always tidy and neat in appearance, and had a nice sheep dog, called +"Bob," which he had brought with him from England, then little more than +a puppy, of which he was very fond. There were seven hundred head of +cattle on the place, which fed in a semi-wild state among the rocks, on +a stretch of country some three and a half miles long, and half to +three-quarters of a mile broad, known as the estancia; as also did a +troop of mares and colts, mostly pretty wild. These latter were often +difficult to come across, and to run them up into the stone enclosure, +or "manga," near the house was no easy matter. We had seventeen riding +horses of varied quality, mostly brought up into the wooden corral near +the house every morning, so that we might each catch up a horse for the +needs of the day. The cattle were very apt to stray outside the boundary +of the estancia, and so get mixed up with those belonging to neighbours, +often causing annoyance. This was much more the case on the Eastern than +on the Western boundary, which was fortunate, as the natives living on +that side were not only more friendly, but had better places themselves, +and were therefore able to give us more help in keeping the cattle +apart. On the Western side the rocks became ever a greater feature of +the landscape, with but little open land between, thus forming a +suitable resort for "matreros," _i.e._, people in hiding, of doubtful +reputation, with no character whatever to lose. Here was where we had +reason to apprehend trouble, should a revolution break out. We each took +a turn to "repuntar," or drive in the cattle, which fed together in +groups, and the same thing took place with the mares and colts. They +also had to be continually turned inwards, and gathered up every now and +again into the "manga," or stone enclosure to be looked over. When you +had been some time at this work, it was wonderful how keen your eyesight +became, and how it adapted itself to your needs. For instance, you could +make out cattle and horses at a distance, when the ordinary observer +would hardly know they were animals at all. Moreover, your eye became +accustomed to tell you whether they were your own or your neighbour's, +by their manner of feeding when grouped, their apparent number, and +their behaviour when disturbed. Early morning and late afternoon was the +time for this work, especially in warm weather, as both horses and +cattle were glad to take advantage of the shelter of the high rocks +during the heat of the day. We had three dogs, which helped us greatly, +as they yelped and barked and chased the cattle to their heart's +content. I rather took to this work; there was a kind of excitement +about it, as you never quite knew whom you were likely to come across, +or what was likely to happen before you got home. At evening, too, if +you chanced to be late, there was a certain weirdness about it all: the +huge masses of rock casting their grey shadows as the sun fell towards +the horizon, and then when it had fully set, a great silence seemed to +fall upon everything. Scarcely a sound could be heard in any direction. +The "pteru-pteru," or wild plover, ceased his shrill cry, and both bird +and beast, active during daylight, quietly sought their rest. Not so, +however, those of the night, for when the short twilight was over, and +darkness had fairly set in you could hear strange sounds and noises, as +if something or other was at work, never seen nor heard during the day, +and the short bark of the wild fox would sound out sharp and clear as he +sallied forth in search of his prey. Then, indeed, you feel truly glad +when the welcome light of the estancia house tells you that you are +nearly home. Your horse, too, knows that he is near, that his work for +that day at any rate, is done, and he looks joyfully forward to joining +his companions, and to a peaceful time till morning. It was usual, once +a week, to gather up all the cattle together upon a spot selected for +that purpose, where a high post is fixed in the ground, around which +when collected the cattle revolve. Upon such an occasion, those who had +furthest to go were on horseback soon after dawn, each taking an +appointed route, and as he returned driving the cattle in front of him. +On this estancia there were special difficulties to contend with, as the +high masses of rock enabled here and there a point of cattle to break +back unseen, or if you did see them, probably it was at a place where it +was difficult to follow them. But the horses were truly wonderful, as +they carried you at a gallop over the rocky and uneven ground. They +seldom made a mistake; bred among the sierras, they were quite at home +there, and you soon learnt to give them their head, and to trust that +all would be well. With us this weekly gathering together of the cattle +never seemed entirely satisfactory. They never came up together all at +one time. One portion or another seemed always to be missing. The long, +narrow position of the estancia, and its rough and rocky character +probably accounted for this. Moreover, we were always short-handed, and +we could not keep any consecutive line as is done in more open country. +This was therefore a day of disappointment, and we could not help +fearing some of the cattle had been stolen; certainly we did not know +where to find them. Royd took this a good deal to heart, for when he +bought the herd this trouble had not been anticipated. The fact was the +cattle had got rather out of hand, and we also feared animals were being +killed on the camp, by "matreros," or fugitive soldiers, of whose +existence in the district we were at the time unaware, but who +afterwards proved themselves dangerous neighbours. Our sheep never +seemed to suffer; on the contrary, they did well; nor was Charles Bent +troubled in any way. For this we were thankful, and kept up our spirits +accordingly. As to the troop of mares and colts, they had things pretty +much their own way. They could gallop like the wind, and go faster over +the rough ground than we could, and we were obliged to try and run them +up to the manga, or stone enclosure, just as we happened most easily to +come across them. The summer, with its long hot afternoons, was now +passing, and the early autumn, perhaps the most pleasant time of the +southern year, was close upon us. As the weather got cooler, I was +continually out among the sierras looking after cattle, and I almost +always went alone. I had happened to fasten over a black bowler hat a +white "pugaree," with its ends hanging down behind to protect the back +of my neck from the sun, and late one afternoon when following a path +among the rocks with which I was well acquainted, my horse took a wrong +turn. In a few moments, passing from beneath the shadow of a large grey +rock to my right, I suddenly found myself in a small open space, about +one hundred yards long by thirty wide, where the grass grew green and +long, and a tiny stream trickled; quite an oasis in a small way. Here, +seated on the ground, their horses saddled and feeding near them, were +five men, apparently soldiers, for each had a broad red band round his +black felt hat, and a lance stuck in the ground, from which hung the red +banner. A fire was already lighted, over which was a large roast, part +of a young cow they had lately killed. A kettle was almost on the boil, +and they were evidently about to enjoy a meal. Their "arms" and +"ponchos" were piled in a heap, but each held either a knife or a short +dagger in his hand, and I noticed that two at least carried revolvers in +their belts. They were a rough-looking lot, as much surprised to see me +as I was to see them. For the moment I hardly knew what best to do. I +was quite unarmed, but did not wish to appear nervous or frightened; nor +could I make a satisfactory retreat. So I sat on my horse, perfectly +still, and then they all got up and surrounded me, gesticulating +violently, and pointing to the white covering of my hat, which seemed to +be the cause of the annoyance. My feigned composure somewhat calmed +their excitement. They told me to hand over my hat and, placing it on a +point of rock about fifteen paces distant, succeeded in putting a bullet +through it with a revolver, to their great amusement and satisfaction. +Meanwhile those who were not shooting tried to frighten me; making signs +with their knives that it was all over with me, but seeing I was an +Englishman they fortunately had no real motive to hurt me; had they +wished to do so, I was completely at their mercy. Being "colorados," +soldiers belonging to the Red Party, they chose to assume that the white +covering on my hat was a Blanco device; but of course, they knew this +was not so. Finally, they allowed me to depart unharmed, returning to me +my hat, minus its white covering which they tore in pieces, but still +with the bullet hole in it as a proof of what happened. The matter was +not much in itself, but it shewed that mischief was brewing, and that it +was becoming unsafe to ride about in the rocks alone, more especially if +unarmed. From that day forth I also started a revolver, to the proper +loading of which I saw carefully before going any distance away. When I +got home and related what happened, it did not tend to reassure poor +Royd, who was rather in low spirits about things in general. He had +moreover heard that afternoon from a passing traveller there was a +rumour a revolution had actually broken out. However, a week passed, and +we heard no more of it, so we followed our usual occupations, leaving +matters to declare themselves. A few days later, when running up a point +of mares, we managed to include three colts which hitherto had always +eluded us. They were all chestnuts, very wild, very fast, with long +flowing manes and tails. Two of them had a broad white blaze, each with +two white hind feet. The third was larger than the others, with long, +sloping quarters; rather a light chestnut, with a white star on his +forehead and nothing more. He had good shoulders and a smooth easy way +of slipping along which greatly took my fancy. So I bought him for a +nominal sum and handed him over to a decent little native named Severo +to break in for me. When he returned the horse to me I found he quite +justified my expectations, and although still a bit raw he was easy and +pleasant to ride; and I called him _Carnival_. I also took rather an +interest in Severo, who was a beautiful rider, with a good seat and +light hands. He could speak a few words of English; where he had learned +them I did not know, but he seemed anxious to be communicative, and to +teach me a few words of Spanish when I went to see how my horse was +getting on. He had lately married, and lived in a rancho, or native hut, +only a short distance from our Southern boundary. When I arrived I was +invited to sit down on their only chair, placed in the centre of the +room, Severo himself sitting on a little wooden stool, while the bride +served Matè, a liquid made by pouring boiling water on a couple of +spoonfuls of "yerba," a kind of tea grown in Brazil; a favourite +beverage among the Spaniards. The Matè is really the gourd in which the +tea is served. You suck it into your mouth through a bombilla, or silver +tube, which latter, if you are not careful, is apt to get so hot as +often to burn your lips. This beverage and the offer of a cigarette is +the orthodox form of native hospitality. + +One morning a party of soldiers showing Red colours galloped up +unexpectedly and took Severo prisoner, with a view to making him serve +in the Government forces. Remonstrance was in vain! He had to saddle up +his best horse and to start at once. His poor young wife was in despair, +and she rode up in tears to tell Royd of her trouble. It was useless to +attempt to get him back, so we comforted her as best we could, with the +hope that her husband would manage to make his escape at the first +convenient opportunity. If he belonged to any political party it was to +the "Blancos," with whom his wife's people had always been mixed up. +This made the enforced separation a greater trial to both of them. It +was fortunate for me that "Carnival" had already been returned to me, or +he also would probably have fallen into their hands. That same afternoon +a party of "Colorados" called at the estancia to take our "peon," or +native servant, for a soldier, but he saw them coming in time, and got +away among the rocks and hid himself before they arrived, so they were +obliged to go away without him. It was evident the Reds were taking up +men not only for the ordinary strengthening of the Government forces, +but for some special purpose. This, and the persistent rumour we were +constantly hearing of a revolution having broken out in the direction of +the "Rio Negro," put us upon our guard, and we took such measures as we +could to look sharply after our stock, more especially our horses, and +to avoid being taken unawares. We also looked up our arms and +ammunition, and considered what we could do for the best in case of any +serious and sudden trouble. The position of Uruguay was at this time +probably unique in the usual stormy history of a South American +republic. Torn by faction and internal strife, peace alone seemed +wanting to ensure its progress and prosperity. The many natural +advantages, such as a good climate, abundant water, grassy plains, and +the beautiful woods which bordered the rivers, rendered it especially +suitable for pastoral purposes. Agriculture was as yet almost unknown, +except in the immediate neighbourhood of the towns, and was then of the +most primitive description. But the land itself was fertile in many +districts, consisting of a rich black loam, where crops of wheat and +maize would give excellent results, and an abundant yield could be +anticipated in suitable situations from a virgin and not easily +exhausted soil. The Flores war, which had lasted for three years, had +ended in the temporary subjugation of the Blanco, or White Party, and +the placing in power of a "Colorado," or Red government. This was not in +sympathy with the majority of the people, more especially those engaged +in pastoral pursuits, such as the raising of sheep and cattle, headed by +the large native land owners, mostly "Blancos," and therefore bitterly +opposed to the "Colorados," or "Reds." These latter often had a majority +in and near the provincial towns, and especially in Monte Video, the +capital. They were led by what may be termed professional politicians, +their soldiers being partly made up of paid foreigners, forming fairly +efficient infantry, together with a large number of natives, whom they +pressed in their service when in power. Some of these, too, received +payment, so long as their party possessed sufficient funds, while a +great number got very little except their food and arms. Their bands of +irregular horse comprised anyone and everyone who had nothing to do, +together with what might be termed the scum of the townsmen, who had +nothing whatever to lose; least of all their reputation. Moreover, there +were certain families, Reds by tradition, whose heads occupied the +government posts when the "Colorados" were in power, and whose minor +members and hangers-on swarmed in the Public Offices. There were also +certain "estancieros" throughout the country, especially up towards the +Brazilian frontier, many of them influential and wealthy, whose politics +had always been Red, and who were supporters of the "Colorado Party." +But they were not nearly so united either in heart or sympathy as were +the Blancos, nor did they cultivate the same enthusiasm. The Blancos +included the descendants of most of the old Castilian families, who had +been the original Spanish Colonists, and they possessed, therefore, a +certain aristocratic element, if you could justly so term it, as being +part of the inner life of the republic. Their importance and influence, +and comparative wealth, accrued mainly from landed property and the +countless herds of sheep and cattle which spread themselves far and +wide, finding good and abundant pasturage on the rolling and +grass-covered plains. While therefore the "Reds" were enabled to +maintain themselves in power by means of an ample supply of money, so +long as they could control the resources of the republic, popular +sympathy in general was with the White Party; indeed, so great was the +disaffection and discontent at this particular time, it needed but a +spark, as it were, applied to gunpowder to set the whole country in a +flame. It only required a real leader, who commanded the full confidence +of the native population, to come upon the scene, and to raise high the +standard of revolt, for the people to flock to his banner far and wide +throughout the country. Thus, as it were in a moment, in a South +American republic, is a revolution born and made. Nor can this be +wondered at when you consider that intrigue and revolution is but a +natural attribute of all populations of purely Spanish descent, and when +you come to mingle an Indian and Italian and foreign element, and then +try to purify the whole by an admixture of the unruly blood of Spain, +the result means a state of general unrest, and a condition of affairs +in which the seeds of revolution are for ever present. Another incentive +is that during a revolution, horses are looked upon as munitions of war, +and may be taken from their owners as required, to be returned and paid +for as Providence may permit. Sheep and cattle, too, required for food, +may be commandeered by armed troops as necessity requires, a nominal +receipt for their value being usually given by the officer in charge, +which in all probability will never be paid. All this naturally gives an +opportunity to the less honest and self-respecting classes of the +community to live a free, roving, careless kind of life at other +people's expense. Although natives will tell you they hate the law of +conscription which obliges them to serve for a time in the army, this is +by no means always really true. Moreover, many of those who are poor are +apt to look upon time of war as a means of relief from the necessity for +honest toil, always distasteful to the Spaniard of South America. They, +moreover, manage to console themselves fairly well for a temporary +absence from their home, with a dim and ill-defined hope that if only +they have good luck they may possibly come out of it all considerably +better off than they went in. One afternoon, a "tropero," or buyer of +cattle, rode up to the house to enquire if we had any fat bullocks to +sell. He told us he was making up a large troop round about the +neighbourhood to take in to Monte Video. Of course, he was full of news +about the revolution, and he should not be surprised if war were to +break out at any time. As he offered Royd fifteen dollars each for any +bullocks which were fat, the latter thought it best to turn anything he +could into cash. So it was arranged we should have a gathering together +of the cattle on the following day, so as to allow the purchaser to part +out what he wished, and he also arranged to stay the night with us. He +was a pleasant man, well-dressed, and the silver fittings of his native +saddle and bridle were quite magnificent. A little before dawn next +morning found us all on the move. The cook had already got hot coffee. +Our horses had been tied up the night before, and we saddled up just as +day was breaking, and one after another slipped quietly away, each of +us taking his appointed line in the general drive up of the herd. The +tropero himself did not go, but his two young men lent a hand, we, of +course, finding them horses. This morning things went better with us +than usual, and twice when the wildest of the bullocks made a rush and +tried to break back they were effectively stopped and disappointed. +Altogether we had a very good "para rodeo," but few of our cattle +apparently remaining behind. Next followed the parting out of the fat +animals. A short distance away from the general herd, which kept +revolving round a large post placed in the centre of the "rodeo," about +a dozen tame animals were stationed, guarded by a couple of young +natives. Each fat bullock, as it was selected by the "tropero," was then +run out of the herd into this little group, the tropero and his head man +commencing operations by running them out himself. It was all very +neatly done. They rode quietly in among the cattle, which we kept +rounded up on every side. Fixing their attention upon a fat bullock, +they placed their horses close up to it, one on either side, and so ran +it out with a sudden rush in the direction of the tame animals. +Sometimes it refused to be so dealt with, and persistently broke back at +all costs. Then the lasso was brought into play, and after it had been +lassoed and bullied about it generally thought better of it and did what +was required. For this particular work the rider must possess not only +skill, but he must be well mounted. His horse must be fast and active on +his legs; he must be intelligent, so as to enter thoroughly into the +spirit of the work, and he must also have plenty of courage. At the same +time he must exercise caution, and thoroughly know his business, +otherwise either he or his rider, probably both, may get caught on the +horns of the bullock and so come to serious grief. But it is wonderful +to see how a good horse will himself enjoy it, and with what marvellous +perfection and accuracy he will perform his part. The rider, too, must +have good nerves, and above all a firm seat, and an accurate eye for +judging distance. As a rule, however, if he is really well mounted, the +more he trusts to his horse and the less he worries him the better. +Meanwhile, to Royd's gratification, the tropero parted out fifty fat +bullocks; quite a good parting for our comparatively small herd, but, as +a matter of fact, our cattle did wonderfully well among the rocks if +only they were left quiet. They had plenty of clear water, and the +grasses which grew there were sweet and nourishing, while in summer time +they greatly enjoyed both the shade and shelter. On the following day, +Friday, I rode over to the pulperia, or store, at Guaycoru and, as +several things were wanted, I took the boy with me, mounted on an old +grey horse, across the saddle of which a pair of large saddle bags were +slung, in which to carry them. We had not long arrived at the pulperia +when a native rode up, mounted on a fine "oscuro," or _dark_ brown +horse, with a long flowing mane and tail, his reins, breastplate, and +stirrups all mounted in solid silver. He was a good-looking man, +something over thirty years of age; a slight but firmly knit figure as +he sat on his horse, with the easy, graceful seat of one born almost in +the saddle. His wide black "bombachos," or loose trousers, tucked inside +high boots, ornamented with silver spurs. The broad-brimmed felt hat, +the long "facon," a two-edged dagger, stuck in his belt, and a white +silk handkerchief tied loosely round his neck, all betokened the +"Spanish caballero," the free, independent life of the horseman on the +open plain. Quickly dismounting, he carelessly strolled into the +"pulperia," with the usual "Buenos tardes Señores," "Good afternoon, +gentlemen." But as he passed me I noticed that he was fully armed, and +had also an alert watchful look about him, and the thought passed +through my mind that here at any rate was no ordinary man. He talked a +few moments to the pulpero, somewhat earnestly, and then came forward, +raising his hat, and offered me a cigarette, remarking something about +the heat of the afternoon. Soon after, I and the boy, having collected +our purchases, mounted our horses to return. Just as we rode round the +edge of the outbuildings a dark-skinned individual in somewhat tattered +garments rose from a low seat where he had been sitting smoking, and +came hurriedly forward. "Did you speak to the Señor with the 'oscuro,'" +he asked. "Yes!" I replied, "what about him?" The mulatto smiled and +showed his white teeth, and then said, almost in a whisper, "You do not +know him! Mamerto Godez! Cuidado! (Beware)." + +One afternoon just about three o'clock, I was sitting in the dining room +writing a letter. It was quite warm, and both door and windows stood +wide open. Royd and Henriquez had gone off to a pulperia owned by a man +called Saballa, on the other side of the River Rosario, to buy some +necessaries. I heard the dogs barking, but paid no attention, when +suddenly half a dozen soldiers with the white device round their hats, +and carrying the white banner on their lances, rode up from behind the +house and halted at the front door. I went out and stood right in front +of them. One who seemed superior to the others accosted me in Spanish, +and I understood him to say that war had broken out, and that their +business was to take up men and horses. Pedro the cook, so soon as he +saw them, had gone to hide among the rocks, fearing, I suppose, lest he +should be taken off for a soldier, Frenchman though he was! However, I +explained as well as my scanty knowledge of Spanish would permit exactly +who were employed, and I also told him about our horses. The result of +it all was that they rode off more or less satisfied, saying that as +"Don Roberto" was away they would call about them another time. About +five o'clock Royd and Henriquez returned, having obtained all they +wanted, and also bringing news. A revolution had broken out far and wide +throughout the country, and a Colonel Aparicio, who had distinguished +himself in a previous war, when General Flores and the Colorados were +victorious, had apparently taken temporary command of the Blanco forces, +which were increasing enormously day by day. That evening we held a +consultation as to how we could act for the best. Royd was naturally +rather despondent, for the rocky nature of the estancia obviously +increased our difficulty in protecting and guarding the stock, besides +affording a safe refuge for thieves and bad characters of every kind. +This was always a drawback in time of peace, and, of course, the danger +would be infinitely greater in time of war. However, there seemed +nothing for it but to await events, and meanwhile do our best to keep +our cattle and horses together as well as we could. The flock of sheep +near the house fed where the land was open, and Henriquez looked after +them. Should he be away, then either I or the boy did so for him. The +other flock up towards Guaycoru fed also in open country, and Charles +Bent was careful and reliable, and could be trusted to look well after +them. He seldom went away from his "puesto," or hut, where he lived +alone, his sole companion being his sheep-dog, "Bob," which he had +brought out with him, when little more than a puppy, from England. He +had one or two neighbours on his further side, who were friendly, and he +also was no great distance from the pulperia where I had first arrived +in the diligence; so up to now he had not found it quite so lonely as +might have been expected. The stone manga, where we could shut in +horses, and also a fair number of cattle, was in a broken and bad +condition, and Royd decided that he would get an Italian stonemason and +his son, who lived not very far away, towards the Rosario, to come over +and build up all the gaps and so put it in good order. Meanwhile, we had +to get the stone from where it lay among the big rocks; no easy job! It +then had to be put upon a wooden truck to which a pair of bullocks were +yoked, who slowly conveyed it to the corral. Fortunately, for a few days +the weather was fine and cool. We all took our share of this work, which +was tedious and tiring. We got a good supply by the time the stonemason +and his son arrived. The father was a thin, rather careworn-looking man, +beyond middle age, with hair fast turning grey; the son, a wiry-looking +youth of about sixteen, with black hair and a sallow complexion. With +them came a sandy-yellow coloured dog, eleven months old, very thin and +lanky-looking, but with muscular limbs, a long, straight back, a broad +forehead, small ears, and a pair of very intelligent eyes. For some +reason or other he took a fancy to me, and I saw he was well fed, for +which he seemed very grateful. He had the look of a lurcher, and was, of +course, a mongrel. He was the son's dog, from whom I bought him for a +couple of dollars. He was called "Napoleon," and I never altered his +name. We saw no more of the soldiers, so we contented ourselves with +keeping a constant eye on the horses, leaving the cattle for the time +being to look after themselves, nor did we attempt to gather them up to +the "rodeo," while the stonemason and his son were with us. Having +finished their work they bid us adieu, received payment, and with many +thanks, took their departure. "Napoleon" did not evince the least desire +to go back with them, for when they mounted their horses he came and lay +down by me, showing no sorrow at his change of owners. Following on all +this, I resumed my work of riding out among the rocks to look up the +cattle again, and the dog seemed very glad to go with me. I had not been +at this more than a couple of days when I thought I missed a point of +animals I had always been accustomed to find feeding more or less in the +same locality. I reported this to Royd, who had not been very well. I +think he had overdone himself, when we were all so busy collecting the +stone. He decided we should have a "para rodeo," or gathering together +of the herd, so as to form a better idea whether any of our cattle had +been stolen. So on Saturday morning we all sallied forth just after +daybreak, our horses having been tied up the night before. The gathering +up, however, was not a successful one, for although we did not let any +we saw break back, when we got them upon the rodeo they certainly seemed +fewer than usual. From the way they came up we hardly thought any had +stayed behind among the rocks. The next day Royd and I took a turn round +to visit our neighbours, to enquire if any of our cattle had been seen +by them. They welcomed us in a friendly manner, and were all apparently +anxious to talk about the war, and to relate all they had heard +regarding it. But we could hear nothing about our missing cattle. All, +therefore, we could do was to arrange for another gathering up within a +week, and two of our neighbours kindly offered to help us. They arranged +to meet us at the far end of the estancia, just after sunrise, and a +couple of native boys came with them. However, when we got the herd +collected on the "rodeo," they again seemed to be fewer than usual, so +we shut part of them up in the stone manga, for it would not hold them +all, and first counted those outside and then those inside, and we were +sadly compelled to conclude that quite fifty animals were missing. Where +to find them we did not know, and we could only hope they would turn up +again at the next para-rodeo. + +A few days later, Henriquez started off early in the afternoon to +Saballa's pulperia, with the large saddle-bags slung over his saddle to +bring back his purchases. He returned just before sunset, and we at once +saw by his manner that something unusual had happened. He told us the +people at the pulperia were much upset because on the previous day a +little over a mile away, down near the wood which bordered the river +Rosario, a poor Italian musician had been found lying with his throat +cut from ear to ear. Whoever had done the deed appeared to have tied a +poor little monkey to the ankle of the dead man, and so to have left +them by the side of his small barrel-organ, which was also much broken. +The body was lying at the pulperia when Henriquez arrived, waiting +permission for burial; and he also saw the monkey, which was being taken +care of. It certainly shewed there were some very wicked people about, +as from the footprints round the place where the body was found, it +would seem that whoever did it was not alone. The Italian had been +playing two nights before at the house of a native, where there had been +a small dance, when several girls and young men were present, all of +whom, however, were well-known. In the morning he had some coffee given +to him, and left the house quite well, en route for the pulperia, and +late that afternoon his body was found by a casual passer-by, who at +once gave notice of what had happened. Poor Henriquez was greatly +affected during the evening, and kept repeating over and over again, +"Pobre Italiano" (poor Italian). "There he lay with his throat cut from +ear to ear. Oh! it's 'orrid, 'orrid, 'orrid!" For in his distress the +cockney accent became more pronounced than ever. + +When, however, he had somewhat recovered his composure, he told us the +Whites were assembling in large force up towards Paysandu, and that many +Blancos from our neighbourhood had already gone outside to join them. +Meanwhile, the Reds were assembling in the province of San José, as also +in the Department of Colonia, and he seemed to think at present we had +more to fear from the Government forces so far as our horses and cattle +were concerned than we had from the revolutionists. As "Carnival" was +rather a good-looking horse, I caught him up most days, although I only +rode him occasionally. I let him out to feed late in the afternoon, when +so far as we knew all seemed to be quiet. Royd had an "ovaro," or +piebald, he thought a lot of, and also a grey he often rode, and +Henriquez took all the care he could of a nice little chestnut he was +very proud of, and always rode on special occasions. Things now went on +much as usual, and we had no visit from the Red soldiers, for which we +were thankful. I was out pretty regularly looking up the cattle, and I +kept on fancying from time to time that some were missing; nor, when we +had the para rodeo did I ever think as many came up as used to do. We +had some of the small fallow deer of the pampas about among the rocks, +and they could often be seen coming out towards late afternoon into the +open glades to feed. I managed to shoot four of them with my rifle, and +took off their skins which, when dried in the sun, soften easily. I also +shot a couple of "carpinchos," a kind of water-pig, which could often be +seen about sunset on the bank of the stream running along the western +side of the camp. They are hard to get near, and easily frightened. +Their skins are much thought of by the natives, who get them tanned, and +put them across the top of their "recados," or saddles. A few days later +we were all sitting at breakfast when Charles Bent arrived. He had +someone staying with him at the puesto for a few days, so was able to +get away. He told us he had not been troubled by soldiers, and that the +sheep were all right. But he said it was rumoured cattle had been stolen +from a small native estancia, beyond where he lived, which belonged to a +"Blanco," and it was supposed they had been taken by some "Colorado" +soldiers, who wished to escape service, and whose chief hiding place was +said to be among the large sierras on our camp. Royd did not like the +look of this at all, as if true it would prove a great danger to our +cattle, and might easily account for the number we thought missing. Bent +stayed the night, and did not go back until next afternoon. He told me +privately he believed there were some bad characters hiding among the +rocks, but that he did not wish to say more than he could help to Royd, +as he was apt to take things so much to heart, and it might cause him +needless worry. But he begged me to be careful, and take every +precaution when riding about among the sierras alone, looking up the +cattle, and he advised me to have "Napoleon" with me, and to see that I +was well armed. He also said he did not feel very happy himself, living +alone at the "puesto," but as it was well outside the rocks, surrounded +by open country, he intended to keep a sharp look-out and if possible to +avoid being taken unawares. + +Fortunately, he had a placid, easy-going temperament, and was not at all +nervous, nor was he inclined to meet trouble half-way. The following +Friday, a little before eleven, a Blanco officer arrived, and with him +about fifty soldiers. They were passing from the town of Colla, towards +Guaycoru, and going on to join the White army. They had several extra +horses with them, so they did not trouble much about ours, except a +saino, or brown, which was feeding not far from the house, and this they +asked to take along with them. I had "Carnival" tied up and saddled, as +also was Royd's piebald, and Henriquez happened to be riding his +chestnut down with the sheep. The other horses were among the rocks, so +they did not see them. We invited the officer in to breakfast, which, +after the Spanish fashion, we were accustomed to have at eleven o'clock, +and dinner at sundown. He was quite young, having served but a short +time in the army. He asked if his men might have something to eat, which +meant they would like to kill a couple of sheep, and roast the meat over +two fires made in the open. They also had some "farenha," a kind of +meal, which they eat raw, with roast meat, and cooked into a sort of +pudding with boiled. We also gave them "yerba" and sugar to make their +matè, or native tea, and they were quite happy. They were all more or +less armed with either lances or guns, and many carried both. Many had a +revolver, and often a facon, or double-edged knife, stuck in their belts +behind; but taking them all round, they were quite orderly, and the +young officer seemed to have them under good control. He told us that +the revolution was extremely popular. Men were flocking far and wide to +the White banner, and up towards Paysandu had already joined in very +large numbers. He asked us if any of the "Colorados" had come to the +estancia, and if we knew of any being about in our neighbourhood. As +they departed they looked quite picturesque, with the Blanco device +round their hats, and the white banner flying from their lances, many +leading their spare horses. They all rode off at a trotte-cito, or +jog-trot, the young officer following alone in solitary grandeur behind. +But their visit, although it passed off quite well, seemed unduly to +depress poor Royd, whom we found it difficult to persuade into taking +anything like a cheerful view of the situation. + +Towards the end of the next week, Henriquez said he should like to ride +over and visit a friend who lived at a small native place on the other +side of Guaycoru. So it was arranged he should go on Saturday morning, +returning home on the Monday, and that I should keep an eye on the flock +of sheep. They did not feed far distant from the house, and when once +turned early in the afternoon, usually fed quietly on their way home. So +on Saturday morning after coffee, Henriquez caught and saddled up his +chestnut, putting on his best gear, and wearing a clean white shirt, a +black jacket and waistcoat, and a pair of black "merino bombachos," or +wide trousers, tucked inside a pair of carefully polished long boots. On +these he buckled a pair of silver spurs, of which he was very proud, as +also of the handsome silver buttons fastening the wide belt of carpincho +skin he wore round his waist. Finally he put on his summer poncho, a +very nice one, and a soft broad-brimmed felt hat completed his +appearance, which seemed to give him every satisfaction. Just before +mounting his horse he examined his revolver, which he carefully fixed in +its proper place inside his belt. I rode with him for about half a mile, +and the last I saw of him was as he turned round the corner of a large +grey mass of rock which bordered the track, and so disappeared from +view. He did not return on the Monday as expected, and on the Tuesday +morning when the boy drove up the riding horses to the corral, much to +our surprise his chestnut was among them, with a bit of broken hide +hanging loosely down from where it was fastened round the horse's neck. +We supposed, however, it had been collared to a mare where Henriquez was +staying, as was a usual custom, and had broken away during the early +part of the previous night, and so found its way home. However, both +Tuesday and Wednesday passed and he did not return, as we felt quite +sure he would do, on a horse borrowed from his friends. So on Thursday +morning I started to ride over to the place where Henriquez had gone, +and during my absence the boy was to watch the sheep. Arriving there, as +I did, about nine o'clock, my surprise may be imagined when I was told +that Henriquez had left them about two o'clock on the Monday afternoon, +quite well, mounted on his own horse, and that he seemed anxious to +reach home with as little delay as possible. I stayed about half an hour +discussing the situation, and then started to ride to the pulperia at +Guaycoru, to make further enquiries. When I got there the owner knew +nothing, nor had he heard anything regarding Henriquez from anyone who +had come to his pulperia. He was a kind little man, and much concerned +at my news, and he promised to enquire from anyone who called at his +house if perchance they might have seen Henriquez, or heard any news of +him. I stayed a little while and got some coffee and two or three +biscuits, and then remounted a big brown horse I was riding, somewhat +loosely put together, but sure-footed all the same, and well-accustomed +to stony country. He had a head quite half of it white, and two wall +eyes, known to the natives as a "pampa," by which name he usually went. +Horses of this type and colour were said to have belonged to the +original Indians of the "Pampas," at the time of the Spanish +colonisation. After again talking things over with the pulpero, we +agreed my best plan would be to ride round by Bent's puesto, in case he +should have heard anything, and if not, I could let him know what had +happened, so that he too might make enquiries. I arrived a little before +one o'clock, and saw Bent walking close to his house as I rode up. "Bob" +ran out barking, but immediately knew me and gave me a friendly +greeting. Bent, of course, had known Henriquez well, and was much +perturbed by what I had to tell him. He had neither seen nor heard +anything. All he could tell me was that it was rumoured there were a +party of thieves supposed to be fugitives from the Reds, who were said +to have taken up their quarters in the rocks, and were stealing small +points of cattle and sheep as opportunity offered. These they were +supposed to drive off at night if there was any moon, or else +immediately after daybreak, to a place some considerable distance away, +where they were said to collect them, and where doubtless they had +friends ready to receive them. All this, however, was not very +comforting, but I asked Bent to be sure and let us know at once if he +heard any news of Henriquez, and also to make his disappearance known to +anyone he might happen to come across, for he lived not very far from +the "camino real," or Government road. I then mounted my horse, +determined to lose no time in getting back to the estancia as soon as +might be. I knocked the "pampa" along at about his best pace, +considering the broken ground over which I had to pass. I always had a +queer feeling passing through the rocks. You could see so little in +front of you, and were so easily apt to miss your way. However, it was +barely half past two when I rode up. Royd was at home, and at once came +out of the house. He was much shocked and greatly upset by what I had to +tell him, saying again and again he felt quite sure the worst had +happened, and that we should none of us ever see or hear of poor +Henriquez again. On Friday Royd and I spent the day searching the tracks +which ran through the rocky part of the estancia; first those over which +a horseman returning direct to the house was most likely to pass, and +then the ones which ran out on either side, which it was not usual for a +traveller to follow. We came across various signs that men with horses +had recently been passing in and out of the sierras, for twice we came +across places where apparently a young cow had been killed and a fire +made near, where part of it at any rate had evidently been roasted, and +that quite recently. On Saturday we carefully searched over another +portion of the estancia, but all without result. Not a sign could we see +of the missing man. Henriquez "had simply vanished!" On Monday morning +we sent the boy over to the pulperia at Guaycoru with a letter to the +pulpero, asking if he could give us any news. But all in vain; no one +had seen or heard anything of him since he started from his friends' +house on his chestnut horse to return home on that Monday afternoon, now +exactly a week ago. Tuesday passed and nothing came to relieve our +suspense. But on Wednesday morning Bent turned up about eleven o'clock, +and I saw at once by his face that something had happened. Having his +friend with him, he started on his horse to come down to the estancia, +and not wishing to be away longer than he could help, he chose a track +which ran through the centre of the rocks in a diagonal direction, not +usually followed, which came out not more than three-quarters of a mile +from the estancia house itself. Contrary to his custom, "Bob" followed +his master, instead of staying at the puesto, where the sheep were, +until his return. Bent was riding carefully along this track when "Bob" +suddenly began to whine and bark, and turning off on one side +disappeared round a big rock. + +Bent whistled and called, but the dog did not return. So he got off his +horse and tied him up to a low bush which happened to be near. He then +took out his revolver and followed on foot in the direction the dog had +gone. He only went about fifty yards just round the edge of the large +rock already mentioned when he found himself in a small open glade, some +thirty yards long, and perhaps fifteen wide, at the far end of which +stood "Bob," close by an object which lay stretched on the ground. Here +was all that remained of poor Henriquez. He was lying slightly on one +side, face downwards; his hat and poncho, and his long boots and silver +spurs, his jacket and waistcoat, belt and revolver all gone! How he ever +came there goodness only knew. Nothing was left but his white shirt, his +black bombachos, and his stockings. It seemed as if the body must have +been either carried or dragged to the place where it lay. His face +looked peaceful, and the only thing to be noticed were signs of a wound +where a bullet had entered just between the shoulders, apparently fired +from behind. There were no signs of bruised or broken grass or horses' +footprints, if indeed a horse could have got round the very narrow space +beside the big rock. Bent covered the face with his pocket handkerchief, +leaving the body lying exactly as it was when he found it, and then +returning to where he had left his horse came on straight to the +estancia. Royd was greatly affected by the sad news which Bent brought +us, as well he might be. However, he said that he and I had better go +back with Bent to the place, taking the native peon and a spade and pick +with us, so that we might dig a grave, and so give the body a decent +burial. Fortunately, we found a spot close by, where the stones and rock +underneath the surface soil were more or less loose and detached. When +we had finished digging the grave, Bent read a portion of the burial +service, as we lowered all that remained of poor Henriquez into his last +resting-place. We then filled in the earth again, placing the loose +pieces of rock we had got out so that they covered and protected the +top, our intention being later on to fix a wooden cross, suitably +inscribed at the head of the grave, permanently to mark the place where +our poor friend lay. It was late afternoon as Royd and I slowly and +sorrowfully wended our way home, closely followed by the native peon, +for Bent had returned to his puesto so soon as the interment was finally +completed. Nothing much happened during the next few days. We had a +gathering together of the cattle, but we were short-handed, and when we +got them up to the rodeo we were compelled to conclude that a good many +of them were missing. One morning, about nine o'clock, a dozen +Government soldiers rode up, each with a red band round his hat and the +red banner flying from their lances. They were not too civil, and merely +said they were taking up horses and men. Our native peon was away among +the rocks, looking for two of our riding horses, which were missing. +Pedro, the cook, had retired to a dark corner of the kitchen. Our other +horses were feeding at some distance from the house, but they asked for +them to be brought up into the corral, so that they might take what they +required. So we sent off the native boy to bring them in. Fortunately, +"Carnival" and Royd's two horses happened to be feeding alone much +further away, so they did not come up with the others, and the soldiers +never saw them. They ended by taking five, including the pampa, +previously mentioned, and they left us two in very poor condition. It +was rather a trial to see them go off, but the soldiers gave us no +choice in the matter, so we could not do otherwise than let them go. +They also asked for some meat, and taking with them the greater part of +a sheep which was hanging in the galpon, they rode off in the direction +of Guaycoru, and we were pleased to see them depart without causing us +further trouble. + +On the Monday following, Royd rode over to stay until the end of the +week with some friends who had an estancia a few miles on our side of +the town of San José. Nothing happened during his absence until Friday, +when Bent rode up about eight o'clock in the morning, looking much +perturbed. Fortunately, his friend had been staying with him at the +puesto as he so often did, for he told me that during the night not only +had about two-thirds of his flock been driven off and could not be found +anywhere in the morning, but that the puesto itself had been attacked +just after midnight by four men, all apparently fully armed. They had +doubtless expected Bent to be alone, but his dog "Bob" was sleeping at +the foot of his bed, and woke him up from sleep by his growling, and so +gave the alarm. + +The puesto was a long, narrow building, built mostly of wood, thickly +plastered inside and out with mud, the inside being well whitewashed +throughout. The roof was thatched with a reed called "paja," much used +for the purpose, for it kept the house both warm in winter, and cool in +summer, and was an excellent protection against heavy rain. The front +door stood close up towards one end of the building, facing West. Inside +were two rooms, each with a window facing East, divided by a wall, so as +to make a living-room, into which you entered, with a sleeping-room +beyond. This latter had also an extra piece built on to it at right +angles, so as to give more sleeping accommodation, one of the walls of +which overlooked the front door. In the middle of this wall, about four +feet from the ground was a small wooden frame about eighteen inches +square which had been put in the wall for the purpose of ventilation, +and inside this was a moveable shutter which slid easily sideways, +secured by a small iron hook to keep it in its place. Both frame and +shutter were somewhat discoloured, so they were not easily noticed, +appearing more or less the same as the mud wall outside. The moon was +almost full, every now and again shaded over by light cloud, which came +slowly sailing up from the south, although there was really but little +wind. + +The flock had gone quietly to rest on the large bare open space, where +they usually passed the night, perhaps one hundred and fifty yards +distant from the front door of the building. Bent had taken a look at +them between nine and ten o'clock, before retiring to rest, when they +appeared quite still, and everything quiet. It would be about two +o'clock in the morning, when "Bob" began to growl in low but savage +tones, which awoke Bent and his friend, who soon got into their clothes +and had hold of their revolvers, which were always kept loaded. +Meanwhile, Bent thought he could hear low voices outside the front door, +so with great presence of mind he pushed the table which stood in the +middle of the sitting-room up against it, and the chairs also, thus +forming a sort of barricade. Leaving his friend to press the table +inside against the front door as hard as he could, and also "Bob," who +was then barking violently. Bent hurried round to the wooden shutter in +his friend's bedroom wall, already mentioned, and drew it quietly back +without making any noise. Looking through it he saw four men fully armed +trying to force open the front door. He could also see their horses +standing saddled near the outside kitchen only a few yards away. He +promptly fired full at the nearest man, who forthwith uttered a loud +cry, apparently wounded. He then fired two more shots in quick +succession, but after the first shot the men made for their horses in +great confusion, mounted them, and hurriedly rode away. + +The two horses which were missing a week ago had not yet turned up, so I +sent out the boy to have a good look round among the rocks, and if +possible to find them, for I feared lest they had been stolen, which +ultimately proved to be the case, for we never saw them again. Leaving +the native peon at the house to look after the sheep, I started with +Bent to go to the puesto, so that we might try if we could hear +anything of all the sheep he told me were missing. His friend appeared +glad to see us, for he had received rather a shock, and did not much +like, after all that had happened, being there by himself. When we came +to count up the sheep we found the number remaining to be barely six +hundred some nine hundred having disappeared, which was indeed a heavy +loss. Poor Bent seemed very sad about it, and well he might be! We could +only conclude that the four men who attacked the puesto must have had +accomplices, who drove off the sheep earlier in the night without +causing much disturbance, by first turning them off the bare place where +the flock was resting across the ground where they were accustomed to +feed, before finally driving them off, as they appeared to have done. In +so doing the strongest and best sheep would naturally go in front, while +those which were weaker and less valuable would be the ones to stay +behind. Seeing that four armed men had attacked the puesto, it seemed +probable that at least an equal number had carried off the sheep. The +fact that there was so much rocky and broken country in the +neighbourhood of the estancia, and not very far away, made it all the +more difficult to obtain any clue as to the route the thieves might have +taken. The ground was hard, and we could find no trace of where the +stolen sheep had passed. + +Having done all we could in this direction, Bent and I separated, each +of us riding round to two or three of the neighbours whom we knew, to +make them aware of what had happened. Late in the afternoon I called at +the pulperia at Guaycoru, hoping I might perhaps hear something +there--but all the owner could tell me was he had heard a rumour that +Mamerto Gomez, the man I had once spoken to at his house, had been seen +three days previously with half a dozen other men entering the rocks, +fully armed, from the opposite side, but for what purpose or whether +they were in any way connected with the carrying off of the sheep, it +was impossible to say! It was easy to surmise they were up to no good, +but this was of course merely conjecture, and I completely failed to +learn anything which might lead to the recovery of the large number of +sheep which were missing. Royd was to come home the next afternoon, and +I knew what a blow this would be to him, when he came to hear of his +loss. I had "Carnival" tied up that night, and sunrise saw me in the +saddle on my way to the puesto, to consult with Bent as to what we could +do further, with a view to obtaining some reliable information if +possible by the time Royd would return. When I got there Bent had heard +nothing, although he had communicated with more than one traveller +riding towards the road along which the diligence passed. We arranged +the direction in which Bent should search during the day, and I took the +opposite one, and made a long round, calling up anywhere I thought it +possible I might hear anything. By mid-day, I found myself not very far +from the pulperia at Guaycoru, so stopped there, and arranged with the +owner to send over a messenger at once to the estancia should he hear +anything which would help us. I then rode back to the puesto to consult +once more with Bent, who by this time--it was now two o'clock--had +returned from his search, without having obtained any information, +although he had questioned at least a dozen people since I left him in +the morning. It was all very trying and disappointing. There seemed +nothing for it but to return to the estancia to meet Royd when he got +home, and tell him what had happened. + +It was nearly four o'clock when I arrived, and about half an hour later +Royd turned up, having much enjoyed his little outing. He brought a +young English boy, about fifteen, with him, tall for his age, with broad +shoulders, and an upright figure. His name was Frank Tryon, but he was +generally known as "Francisco." He was an excellent rider, and fond of +horses and dogs, especially of the pretty "alazan," or chestnut pony he +was riding when he arrived, with its flowing mane and tail, of which it +was easy to see he was really very proud. + +I helped them to unsaddle, and told the cook to get some coffee ready, +as they told me they had breakfast as they came along. Royd then sat +down in an easy chair and began to smoke. "Well, Royd," I said, "I am +very glad to see you back. I have just come down from Bent's puesto. It +was attacked by thieves on Thursday night, and two-thirds of the sheep +were stolen. Bent and I have searched in every direction both yesterday +and to-day, and we can learn nothing whatever about them." "Goodness +gracious! that is indeed bad luck," replied Royd, "but I am glad poor +Bent got off all right; it must have given him a great shock. I hope his +friend was with him so that he would not be alone." I then told him all +that had happened, and also what I had heard about Mamerto Gomez and his +men having been seen entering the sierras. "It is not unlikely he may be +the real cause of it all," said Royd. "I fully expect that fellow had a +hand in it, for I believe him to be a regular scoundrel, in spite of his +suave manner and grand appearance." Certainly Royd bore his misfortune +with more fortitude than I expected, for the loss was indeed a heavy +one. The late afternoon was now drawing on, and I sent the native boy to +bring up the "tropilla," which happened to be feeding not far away, up +into the corral, so that we might collar Francisco's pony to the +tropilla mare, and we then let them all out again to feed for the night. +After dinner we talked the whole affair over before going to bed, +without, however, coming to any conclusion as to what prospect there was +of our ever again hearing of the missing sheep. Early on Monday morning, +leaving Francisco at the house, who said he would keep an eye on the +sheep, Royd and I rode over to the puesto, where Bent had nothing +whatever to report. He had managed to interview during Sunday some half +dozen horsemen who were riding along within reach of him, but could +obtain nothing in the way of information. Royd and I both took a long +turn round in opposite directions, each returning to the puesto about +three o'clock; but it was all in vain: we could learn nothing which +would help us from anybody. We again held a consultation, and Royd +determined that for the present Bent should stay on at the puesto and +have his friend with him, maintaining as strict a watch as possible over +the sheep which remained. Later, if we failed to hear anything of the +ones that had been stolen, the only thing to do would be for Bent to +come down with his sheep to the estancia, and join them on to those +which were there. As by leaving the puesto he would not only be safer +and more secure himself, but he could then look after all the sheep +remaining on the estancia by keeping them together in one flock. + +The autumn of the Southern year was now well advanced, and there was +still plenty of grass within reasonable reach of the estancia house--but +meanwhile we only thought of this plan as being one suitable for the +near future. Royd and I then rode home, having had a fairly long day. +Everything seemed quiet as we followed along the narrow track which +wound itself like a snake among the big masses of grey rock. Suddenly +Napoleon, who was with us, started off as if in pursuit of something, +and I took out my revolver and followed him up. Reaching an open space +quite hidden from the track, I came upon the remains of a young cow, the +best joints of the meat having evidently been cut up and taken away with +the hide on them, while the animal was still warm; indeed, it was plain +the cow had only been recently killed. I called to Royd who was only a +little way behind me to come and look. It certainly looked as if thieves +were not very far off, and in view of recent events it did not tend to +make either of us feel very comfortable. Probably one of the grey foxes +often to be seen as evening approached had been visiting the remains, +and Napoleon had caught scent of it, which attracted his attention. When +we got home we found Francisco quite happy, and he and I took a turn +round and brought up the riding horses, shutting them up for the night +in the stone "manga," instead of leaving them out to feed as usual. We +also saw to our guns and ammunition. All this gave us food for +reflection, and we sat up talking and smoking until quite late. + +Towards the end of the week we made up our minds to have another +gathering together of the cattle. Francisco looked forward to this with +much pleasure, as he was anxious to see how his chestnut would acquit +himself among the rocks, which were quite new to him. We tied up horses +over night, and were on the move just after dawn. It was a beautiful +morning, the sun rose in a clear sky, the herald of a fine day. I and +the native peon went together to quite the far end of the camp. Royd and +Francisco taking a position a little nearer home The cattle appeared to +be coming up well, nor did any so far as we knew succeed in breaking +back. When, however, we got them up to the rodeo and made a count, at +least two hundred and fifty animals seemed missing. The native peon and +boy with the aid of Francisco, kept them there, not allowing them to go +back to their feeding ground until twelve o'clock. Meanwhile, Royd and I +went back over the ground again to try and discover if any, and if so +how many, might have escaped us. However, we failed to find them in any +direction. That being so the only conclusion we could come to was that a +large number of the herd, certainly more than two hundred had +disappeared, and in all probability been stolen. This was by no means a +pleasant conclusion. Poor Royd was very depressed, and as we sat by the +fire that evening, turned to me and said, "If this sort of thing goes on +it will be about time for me to clear out." I tried to comfort him as +well as I could, although I did not feel at all happy in my own mind; +far from it. "Suppose we have another gathering up in a week's time, we +can see what happens then," I said. Meanwhile I will be about on +horseback as much as I can among the rocks, and I will see if I can find +a clue to the mystery. "Thank you!" replied Royd, "we will wait and see +if more of them come up to the rodeo in a week's time." But before the +day came I could see the matter was constantly weighing on his mind, nor +did I at all wonder, and I really felt very sorry for him. Next morning +we were up betimes, and all went to the corral to catch up horses for +the day. There was a very pretty "dorodilla," or bay filly in the +tropilla, with a black mane and tail, about two years old. This Royd +proposed to give as a present to Francisco, as he said it would make a +nice companion for his chestnut. This pleased him greatly, and he soon +began to talk of catching it up and leading it about with a halter and +rein if only it was sufficiently tame to allow this to be done. The +following days I spent among the sierras, and I could not disguise from +myself that the various groups of cattle when I saw them feeding, and I +recollected what they used to look like seemed certainly smaller; +indeed, several animals I knew and therefore quite expected to see I +never managed to see at all. All seemed quiet, however, nor did they +show any evidence of having been recently disturbed. I was riding home +on Friday evening later than usual for it was close upon sunset, when I +thought I heard voices. I immediately stopped and listened carefully. A +light breeze rustling from where the sound came seemed to bring it +nearer, and I judged it could not be more than one hundred and fifty +yards distant. There happened to be an open space close to where I was, +some twenty paces long by ten wide. It had a narrow entrance, and was +quite surrounded and shut in by the high rocks. I knew well where it +was, having been there before. So I dismounted and led my horse through +this narrow entrance into the open space, where he was completely hidden +from view, and hobbled him and tied him up. I then came out, and +carefully concealing myself, stole along on foot in the direction from +which I had heard the voices. I easily obtained sufficient cover, and +had not advanced at all far when I saw four men, all armed, about sixty +paces from me. One of them was Mamerto Gomez, the man I had seen at the +pulperia; I recognised him at once, and he seemed to be directing the +others, as if they were arranging some plan or other. I listened +attentively, hoping I might perhaps hear some mention of the stolen +sheep, but what with the subdued tone in which they conversed and the +fact that I did not know much Spanish, I failed to make out what they +were saying. Their horses stood saddled near them, and I noticed they +wore the red device round their black felt hats. I remained perfectly +still for quite ten minutes, well sheltered from their view by a large +piece of rock, where I could see but could not be seen. At the end of +that time they suddenly mounted their horses and rode away in the +opposite direction to where I was hid, and I must allow I did not feel +very sorry to see them depart. I then went back to my horse, and at once +rode home. Royd also had just returned, and was unsaddling near the +front door. He had been round to ask three or four of our neighbours to +help us to gather up our cattle on the Monday morning following. He +thought, perhaps, if we had more horsemen we might make a more +successful "para rodeo" than we had done before. + +I told him my little adventure, and what I had seen, and he shook his +head. "That fellow Mamerto is at the bottom of all this trouble, I do +believe," he said, "and I do wish you had been able to hear distinctly +what those thieves were planning and talking about." + +Only the first sign of dawn was appearing on Monday morning when we +saddled up our horses and rode silently in among the grey rocks. +Francisco did not go with us, but he joined us later at the rodeo. I had +the furthest to go, quite to the end of the estancia, near Guaycoru. +Bent came from his side, and four of our neighbours each fell into line +at the place appointed. So this time we mustered a fairly strong force, +and none of the cattle had any chance of breaking back. But by the time +we had got them outside the sierras, and even before I could see them +gathered together at close quarters, I felt sure in my own mind that +quite a third of the herd was missing. Thanks to our neighbours' +assistance we were able to make a correct count, and this we did twice +over, so as to be sure we were correct. There were only four hundred and +sixty-five animals, not counting a dozen very small calves, whereas +there ought to have been over seven hundred at least. Anyway, making +every possible allowance, there were certainly more than two hundred +missing; not far different from what we had made them out to be ten days +ago. There was no accounting in any way where the missing animals could +be, so we had to accept the inevitable and conclude they must have been +driven off, probably during the night, and stolen. They seemed just to +have vanished in the same way as did the sheep. One misfortune so +quickly following the other caused Royd to feel his loss very acutely, +and it naturally made him despondent and down-hearted. I tried my best +to cheer him up, but with little success. One day we succeeded in +running the troop of mares and colts up into the stone enclosure. They +were swift of foot, knew every turn and twist of the rocks, and so long +as they kept inside the sierras it was difficult for anyone to get hold +of them. When once in the corral it was a different matter. A chestnut +colt, with a white star on his forehead, smaller and younger than +"Carnival" was easily lassoed, and afterwards tied up to a post, from +which to no purpose he made strenuous efforts to get loose. He had to +remain where he was during the night, and next morning we collared him +to a tame mare, so that he could easily be got hold of when wanted. A +couple of mornings later, when the riding horses were brought up to the +corral, Francisco's bay filly was missing, and, after a long search, was +found, minus its skin, which was but of small value. Why it had been +killed was a mystery, until some time afterwards it became known that a +near neighbour was making a set of horse-gear of raw cowhide and mares +hide; and as this set was a very particular one it required all the hide +to be of the same colour. So the maker, having run out of mare's hide, +searched round in the neighbourhood until he found an animal to suit +him, which happened to be Francisco's filly. The latter was greatly +distressed by his potrilla coming to so premature an end, but there it +lay dead, so there was nothing more to be done. This shews the small +amount of respect there was for property in those days in the country +districts of the Republic. Immediately following this little event, +Colonel Pinto Mallada who held an important position in the Department, +arrived with two hundred and fifty soldiers and encamped near the +estancia for a couple of days. He sent his adjutant up to say he would +require a supply of meat for his men to eat, but that orders had been +given them not to take any horses. Consequently, those we wanted to save +were brought up to feed within easy distance of the house, as Mallada's +orders were generally obeyed. + +Francisco happened to be left alone at the estancia with Pedro the cook, +and when he went out to see if the horses were all right, he noticed +that his chestnut pony was missing. So he went down on an old brown +horse he was riding to the Colonel's tent, situate under a tree, but he +was not allowed to see him, as he was taking his "siesta." However, his +sergeant, whom he interviewed, said he was to come later. The Colonel, +who was a stern half Indian, was much feared; he spoke little, and had +but little mercy for his enemies. So Francisco returned to the house and +went down again to see him later on. He found him sitting sucking +"matè," while the sergeant stood beside him combing carefully for him +his long hair, which hung down almost to his shoulders. Francisco told +the Colonel his pony had gone, whereupon the latter directed his +sergeant to take him round the encampment, as the soldiers were +scattered in different places in lots of eight or ten together. No pony +could be found, so Francisco and the sergeant returned to see the +Colonel, who then said if the pony was not in the encampment some men he +had sent away must have taken it, but that Francisco need not fear, as +he should have his pony back again. + +Thereupon Francisco once again returned to the house very sorry not to +have found his pony--but still hoping for the best. Sure enough in three +days a soldier rode up with the chestnut pony, apparently none the worse +for his enforced absence. + +This shews the Colonel had a certain kind of feeling about him, although +at the same time he had little regard for the lives of those who +happened to oppose his wishes. I believe in the end, a long time +afterwards, he was shot in Rosario, during some political trouble. Early +in the next week I rode over to what was known as the "Swiss Colony," +some fourteen miles distant from us in more or less a Southerly +direction. There was a pulperia there where the diligence which came out +from Monte Video stopped, and often brought us letters--which usually +came to hand sooner or later, as opportunity offered. However, just now +Royd was expecting some, and as a few small purchases were also required +I saddled up poor Henriquez's chestnut, and taking a pair of saddle-bags +with me, made a start. He was a good little horse, the morning was +bright and fine, and I enjoyed my ride as I galloped along over the +rolling country in front of me. I just pulled up at Saballa's pulperia +as I passed to hear if there was any news. But everything was quiet, and +no soldiers seemed to be about. Just about a mile distant from the pass +over the river Rosario, leading to the Swiss Colony, I overtook Mr. +Frederick Dampier, owner of the Estancia del Pichinango. He also was on +his way to Quincke's pulperia, so we rode on together. He asked me a +good deal about Royd, and how he was getting on, etc, and he looked very +serious when I related to him all that had happened. "I doubt if you +will ever see either those sheep or cattle again," he said. "I expect +there is a regular gang of thieves located inside the sierras, with +Mamerto Gomez as their leader." + +"I hope they won't take it into their heads to come our way; it would +not be the first time such a thing has happened; although, fortunately, +there is no secure hiding place for them in the day-time here, like +there is inside the sierras." + +When we got to the pulperia I found three letters, two for Royd and one +for me. I soon completed my small purchases, and half an hour later was +ready to start on my return journey. Mr. Dampier was also returning by +the same way we had come, so we rode on together. When we had got +through the pass, he turned to me and said, "I wonder if you would care +to go and take charge up at the Cerro. It is where my partner lived +before he returned to England, a little more than a year ago. You might +find yourself fairly comfortable there; anyway, you would have plenty of +room, and you could assist me in the management of the estancia." This +proposal certainly took me somewhat by surprise, for I had only been +about nine months in the country, but I thanked him, and said I would +see what Royd thought about it when I got back, and let him know without +unnecessary delay. We then parted company, just about in the same place +where we had met in the morning. The chestnut was going well, the sun, +now past the meridian, was shining brightly, the air was fresh and cool, +and my ride was a pleasant one. I thought a good deal as I rode along +about what Mr. Dampier had said to me, and the more I thought of it the +better I liked the idea of what he had proposed. The only difficulty was +that if Royd was going to have continued trouble at the rocks, I did not +wish to leave him, as it were, in the lurch. + +Now that the war had definitely broken out, it seemed to me that if I +went to the "Cerro," it would certainly be an experience, and there +would probably prove to be a fair amount of excitement as well. It was +just after two o'clock when I reached the estancia. Royd had ridden out, +and did not return until towards sunset. I unsaddled the chestnut and +let him go. He at once trotted off to find his friends and enjoy a quiet +feed. He knew they would not be very far away. Meanwhile Pedro got me +some food and coffee, and I sat down and read my letter, which had come +from England, over again, and smoked a quiet pipe. When Royd returned I +handed him his letters and showed him my purchases, which he found +satisfactory. He had been out among the sierras, and had taken a turn +round to see a native neighbour, where doubtless he had discussed the +situation, and why so many cattle were missing when we got them up to +the rodeo. Perhaps his native friend had given him comfort, for he +seemed in better spirits than usual. I said nothing to him until we had +finished dinner and were sitting smoking by the fire in the dining room; +for winter was coming on, and the evenings began to be chilly. Then I +told him how I had met Mr. Dampier, and what he had said to me. He +looked up rather amused. "I think if I were you I should go," he said. +"Mr. Dampier is an exceedingly nice man, and I feel sure you will get on +very well with him; and you will be sure to gain a lot of experience at +a large estancia like the Pichinango." "But what about the trouble in +the rocks," I replied. "I should not like to leave you without seeing +you through; that is if I can be of any help to you." "Well," said Royd, +"I have been thinking things over this afternoon. I can bring Bent and +the remaining sheep down, and join them on to the flock we already have +here. He can then look after them all together. Curiously enough, one of +the letters you brought me is from my friends, with whom I stayed the +other day, who have their estancia on this side of San Josè. They +propose, if things get worse over here, I should take what cattle and +sheep I may have to their camp, and join up with them. They have more +land, you know, than they really want, and it could carry comfortably +more stock than I am likely to have remaining here. At any rate, the +idea seems worth considering, for if this war continues, it might +perhaps turn out to be the best thing to do." "Well," I said, "we will +sleep over it all, and then if you are still in the same mind I will see +about accepting Mr. Dampier's offer." Next morning, we had just finished +our coffee and were walking down to the corral to catch our horses as +usual. "Well, Royd, what do you think about it this morning?" I said. +"Are you still of the same opinion about my going to the 'Cerro'?" "Yes, +I am," he said. "I think it would be a great pity for you to refuse the +offer. I have got some letters to write, and as the diligence will be +passing Quincke's in a couple of days on its way back to San Josè, I +will send the native peon over with them early to-morrow morning. I will +finish the letters first, and then you and I can ride over to the puesto +and see Bent." + +"That being so," I replied, "I think I cannot do better than write a +letter to Mr. Dampier, accepting his proposal, and tell him I will go +over to the 'Cerro' on Wednesday in next week. The peon could leave my +letter at Mr. Dampier's house as he passes by." + +"So be it," said Royd, "and I sincerely wish you all luck and prosperity +in the new departure." So I wrote my letter while I was waiting for +Royd, thanking Mr. Dampier for what he had said to me, accepting his +offer, and saying I would go over to the "Cerro" on Wednesday morning in +the following week. All appeared quiet as Royd and I rode among the +rocks to the puesto. Here and there we passed a few cattle, a silver fox +we disturbed ran in front of us for a hundred yards or so, and then +dodged round the corner of a rock, where he probably had his lair. We +noticed the smell of a skunk a little further along. He, too, had been +out and about for his morning exercise. Silence reigned everywhere, +broken only by the shrill cry of the "pteru-pteru," or plover, a cry we +were so accustomed to hear that we hardly noticed it. When we arrived we +found Bent all right, having just come to his house to see about some +breakfast. The sheep were quietly feeding a little distance away. There +was no news. He had heard nothing; nor had he seen anyone just lately. +His friend had gone away for a few hours to see a native he knew up +towards Guaycoru. + +Royd told Bent he thought he had better come down with the sheep to the +estancia, leaving the puesto for the time being unoccupied. This seemed +to please him rather than otherwise, and it was settled he should come +down with his belongings on the following Monday, and Royd promised to +send up the native peon to help him to drive the sheep. Anything he had +to leave behind could remain in the house, which he could lock up, +bringing the key away with him, and whatever there was could be sent for +later. I also told Bent about Mr. Dampier's offer to me, at which he +seemed somewhat amused, although his good manners prevented him saying +all that was perhaps passing through his mind. Royd and I then rode +round by the pulperia at Guaycoru to see if by chance we could hear +anything which might afford us a clue as to what had become of our +missing cattle; or indeed, of the stolen sheep. Early next morning the +native peon rode off with Royd's letters for the Swiss Colony, and I +gave him mine to deliver at Mr. Dampier's house as he passed. On the +Monday following he and Francisco made an early start to go and help to +bring down the sheep from the puesto. The latter rode his chestnut pony +and hoped to enjoy the ride. + +The sheep travelled down well. Bent brought his two horses with him, +riding one and leading the other as a pack-horse with his things. "Bob," +of course, followed, greatly interested, behind the sheep; indeed, he +seemed to enjoy the excitement of making the move. "Napoleon" gave him +an affectionate welcome, for they had always been friends. On the +Tuesday I put together my things. Royd kindly said he would send the +native peon with me, who could lead the extra horse which was to carry +them, and then bring him back afterwards. Anything I could not take was +put into a big box, which was to be sent to Saballa's pulperia by the +first cart which might pass, whence I could easily get it brought on to +the "Cerro." I took my Colts revolver and all my cartridges with me, +also my "Service" rifle, which I had given to me just as I was leaving +England, and I found I could pack all I was likely to need for the +present quite easily in two large bundles, which could be fixed on +either side of the "recado," on the led horse. The peon took a large +pair of saddle-bags for me on the horse he rode, and I had a smaller +pair on mine. Wednesday morning, June 15th, proved fine, the sun shining +in a clear sky. So I bid adieu to Royd and Bent and Francisco, and with +many good wishes from them all, mounted "Carnival," accompanied by +Napoleon, and duly followed the native peon who, with the pack-horse +behind him, had already made a start. And so I bid adieu not without +regret to "Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo," for I had been very happy there, +and as I passed along my way it seemed to me, at any rate for the time +being, a step into the great unknown. When we arrived at the "Cerro del +Pichinango" I was received by an Englishman called Robinson, who acted +as cook and general caretaker inside the house. He soon got me some food +and coffee ready, and he also found something to eat for the man who had +come with me. There were three peones, or out-door servants about; an +uncle, and two of his nephews. They were natives of Uruguay, but by +parentage were Indians of the Pampas, which also showed very clearly in +their countenances. I wrote a message to Royd on a piece of paper, which +I gave to the peon for him, just to say I had arrived all right. +Meantime I had unsaddled "Carnival," and tied him up in a grass-covered +court or enclosure, surrounded by a high stone wall, where there were +also several trees and two large iron gates at the bottom, which were +usually kept locked. The house itself certainly looked imposing. It was +built the whole width of the upper end of the court, and was divided +into two parts by a high stone archway, the front of which stood level +with the court, while the back led direct into the large "galpon," or +wool-shed, which was joined to the house its full length behind, with +two large openings on its outer side, closed by wide wooden doors, both +ends being quite shut in. The house had nine rooms, large and small; +four on one side of the open archway, which was shut off from the galpon +by a door in the centre, and five on the other. Each had a large window +overlooking the court, protected outside by thick iron bars. First came +the kitchen, with a door leading direct into the open, and a bedroom +above, for the cook; then, the dining room, with two large windows +opening on the court; next, a small room, with a little iron stove +called the gun-room, and next again a bedroom; each having a window +looking on the court. This bedroom had also a door opening into the +stone archway. On the other side of this were five rooms, all leading +one into another; but the fourth had a door opening on the court; while +the fifth room was called the visitors' room, and had a large high +window in the middle of the end of the house, which gave abundance of +light, although it, too, was heavily barred. This room was comfortably +furnished, while from the others on this side of the archway the +furniture had been mostly removed, one of them being at this time used +as a storeroom. + +The whole house was an "azotea," having one long flat roof throughout, +all round which was a low battlemented parapet with open spaces, between +where you could place firearms for self-defence in the event of a siege +or an attack from outside. Out of the dining room was an inside passage +and ladder leading to the roof, which was removable, having a small +shelter or covering built over it at the top. The roof itself was +carefully tiled and cemented, collecting all the rain-water which fell +upon it, and carrying it through pipes into the large Alhibi, or +reservoir, carefully tiled, which stood in the middle of the court. Here +the water remained quite cool in summer, an ample supply being collected +during the rainy weather, sufficient to last the whole year. + +There were no wells or springs, for the house stood high on an eminence +overlooking the surrounding country, the ground all round being of a +rocky nature, the surface soil in places having scarcely any depth at +all; indeed, nowhere near the house was it at all suitable for either +crops or cultivation. + +During the afternoon I had one of the tropillas of horses brought up +into the corral, and we collared "Carnival" to a nice little grey mare, +so that he could go out to feed with the other horses. But he could not +escape back again to the rocks, as he certainly would have done had he +been left loose. The mare, however, seemed very considerate and good to +him, and he afterwards became quite fond of her. Napoleon, too, seemed +to settle down easily into his new surroundings, and it was not long +before he obtained control over the three or four mongrels who barked at +him on his arrival. I took a little walk round the establishment during +the afternoon, and had a look over a small flock of "southdowns" which +fed near the house, and were shut up into their sheep yard at night, +surrounded by a stone wall. They were now feeding with their faces +towards home, and were generally looked after by one of the Indian boys. + +As I walked along through the long grass, a brace of partridges got up +close to me, and flew away straight in front of me. Had I taken a gun +with me they would have been an easy shot. Behind the "Cerro" the +country seemed to roll away into distance, like the waves of the sea, so +characteristic of the Pampas of South America. + +As I returned I climbed up to the top of the group of rocks just behind +the house itself, enclosed by a stone wall not by any means in good +condition. From there the country on one side appeared rocky and broken, +with a valley running down at right angles, where apparently stone had +been got out of a kind of quarry, near which I could see two or three +stone erections, which might be either huts or temporary shelters. Far +in the distance were woods which seemed to border a river. This I found +to be the river Pichinango, which was the boundary of the estate on that +side. + +I had some dinner at sundown, and then enjoyed a quiet pipe, and thought +over the events of the day. Later, I fixed up my things in the bedroom +joining the archway, in the corner of which latter I placed an old +wool-bag I found lying about, for Napoleon to sleep on, and I too went +to bed, asking the cook to be sure and call me in good time in the +morning. I slept soundly, and the air felt fresh and keen when I went +out into the courtyard not long after sunrise, where I was +affectionately greeted by Napoleon, who seemed very pleased to see me +again. The Indians were already sitting round their fire in the galpon, +sucking Matè, and Robinson was busy in his kitchen, preparing the early +coffee. The first thing I did was to have the horses belonging to the +"Cerro" brought up into the corral, so that I might look them over. They +were a mixed lot, some seventy in all, and varied greatly in colour and +appearance. But this was only to be expected, and there were some useful +horses among them. + +A little before eleven, Don Frederico Dampier rode up from his house, +"La Concordia," situate at the other end of the estancia. I saw him +coming so went out a little way to meet him. His well-knit but spare +figure looked remarkably well on horseback. We first took a turn +outside, and Don Frederico pointed out certain things which needed +attention. We then went inside, and he gave me the keys of two large +cupboards which contained linen and household necessaries. He also gave +me a book called the "log-book," in which I was to write down anything +which happened, and also the work which was done each day, as it passed. +By this time, Robinson had got ready some breakfast for us, after which +we mounted our horses and rode round a troop of cattle called the +"tamberos," or tame animals; supposed to come up to their "rodeo" every +day before sundown. However, as a matter of fact, they were quite as +wild as the larger herd, and it was some little time before I got them +well under control. We then went on to two of the puestos, each in +charge of a puestero, or shepherd, who looked after his flock of +something under three thousand sheep. The first puesto we came to was in +charge of a "basco" named Laborde, who had emigrated, while yet young, +to Uruguay, from the Spanish shores of the Bay of Biscay. He was a +fresh-coloured, good-tempered looking man, still in middle life, and he +seemed cheerful and comfortable with his wife and three children round +him. He gave us many particulars about his flock; how they were getting +on, etc. He had been with them most of the morning; had just ridden home +to get something to eat, and was going out to give them a turn towards +home a little later on. He said he had not been troubled by soldiers, +although he had noticed small detachments passing towards the Sierras, +but they had not come near either the flock or his puesto. We then rode +on to the second, kept also by a basco, called Martin, the number of +sheep being more or less the same as the one previously visited. Martin +was a fine, robust, good-looking man, in the prime of life; very alert +and intelligent, and apparently well-versed in the ways of estancia +life. We passed alongside his flock as they were quietly feeding; and we +looked over three large points of cattle, and also some mares and colts +as I accompanied Don Frederico a little further on his way home. + +I then bid him farewell and rode back direct to the Cerro, and with one +of the Indians got the tamberos, before-mentioned, up to their rodeo in +the afternoon, keeping them there about three-quarters of an hour as a +matter of discipline, and then as the sun fell towards the horizon on +the late autumn afternoon the little flock of Southdown sheep drew +towards home, to be shut in their sheepyard for the night. So I took the +opportunity of looking them carefully over, and making a correct count +of them; they were just over three hundred, so that I might the more +easily become aware, if by ill-luck any should be missing. + +The old cook, Robinson, had gone through some exciting experiences in +his earlier life. When little more than a boy he sailed for the +Southern seas in one of "Green's" whaling ships, fitted out for a three +years' cruise beyond Cape Horn, in pursuit of the sperm whale. This was +then a very profitable occupation. From captain to cabin-boy, everyone +had a share in the results of the voyage, and when the good ship +returned, fully loaded with her valuable cargo of sperm oil, she had a +great welcome from her owner, who often went down to greet her arrival +in Plymouth Sound. Eventually he rose to be a first-class hand aboard; +indeed, it was his office to throw the harpoon, as he stood upright in +the bow of the boat, into the whale, an act requiring not only courage, +but also great judgment and skill. It was only upon rare occasions that +the old man could be induced to talk of his sea-faring days. A kind of +gloom always seemed to lie behind them all, and it was but by a mere +chance that I happened later to find out what it meant. Like so many of +the sea-faring class with him drink was the trouble, and after a bout of +it he would sometimes fall into a kind of delirium, talking incessantly +to himself, yet hardly aware of what he was saying. It seems he had been +wrecked on the northern coast of New Zealand in the days of long ago, +and there he had lived with a Maori tribe, and had wedded a Maori +spouse. Then came a war with a neighbouring tribe, who proved +victorious, and he saw his wife tomahawked before his eyes, while he +himself was unable to render her any assistance. + +Following this, he fled into the bush, where he subsisted on fern-root, +and anything else he could obtain, until by great good fortune he +managed to signal and attract the attention of a passing vessel, who +lowered a boat and took him off. + +He then worked his way back to England, and afterwards went out to the +Falkland Islands Company, at Port Stanley. + +Finally, he came over to Uruguay, drifted to the "Cerro del Pichinango" +during the war of "Oribé," where he had remained ever since. So long as +all went well, he was attentive to duty inside the house; clean and tidy +in preparing the meals; indeed, never happier than when fully employed +with his scrubbing brush and an ample supply of soap and water. One of +his great pleasures was to hoist the Union Jack on the small standard on +the top of the azotea on feast-days and holidays, when he would again +lower it at sunset, the same as he would have done on board ship. His +failing compelled me to keep all Caña, or white rum, under lock and key, +although I was instructed to deal him out his daily allowance twice +during the day; when the sun got over the fore-yard, as he was wont to +express it, and at sundown. Outside he chiefly employed himself in +chopping and splitting up wood for the stove in the kitchen, with his +two axes, of which he took great care, and of which he was apparently +very proud. + +We happened to have a spell of fine weather during the first few days +after I arrived at the "Cerro," so I was enabled to see things generally +better than I could otherwise have done. + + + + +PART II. + +EL CERRO DEL PICHINANGO. + + +The Cerro del Pichinango comprised something over sixteen thousand +acres, on which fed twenty thousand sheep, two thousand head of cattle, +and three hundred and fifty horses. The sheep were divided into seven +flocks, not counting a small flock of Southdowns at the Cerro. Each +flock had its own area of camp, over which to feed, and was located at +its own "puesto," where its "puestero," or shepherd, lived and looked +after it. The cattle grazed at will all over the estate, which was quite +open, without fences of any kind, here and there, in large groups, and +often in small points of twenty or thirty animals. There was good +pasturage, and abundant water. The river Rosario, which bordered the +estate on the West, did not run in a straight line, but curved in its +course, while at the South-West corner it took a much larger curve, +forming almost a semi-circle, and here the woods were wider than +hitherto. All this gave the scenery quite a park-like aspect, which was +very attractive. On the Southern side the river Pichinango did the same, +the woods which bordered its banks being even more beautiful, hung with +creepers and flowering plants, the river winding peacefully in between. +Here, too, fish could be caught, and the carpincho, or water-pig, was +able to enjoy himself undisturbed to his heart's content. Moreover, a +considerable stream called the Cañada Grande, passed right through the +centre of the estate, running for the most part clean and pure over a +stony and rocky bed. La Concordia, where Mr. Dampier lived with his +family, was situate at the opposite end of the estancia to the Cerro. +The house stood on elevated ground overlooking the river Rosario, and +its woods on the west, while towards the south it commanded a distant +view of the Swiss Colony, with its red-roofed houses and patches of +arable land between. On the right were the wide and beautiful woods +which bordered the banks of the river Pichinango, where it joined the +Rosario, at which juncture of the two rivers a broad rincon, or corner, +was in itself quite a feature of the landscape. To the left the +grass-covered plain, with here and there a large bed of tall thistles, +rolled away for some four miles to the northern boundary of the +estancia. The house was modern and comfortable: built on three sides of +an open "patio," or court, which you entered through iron gates, and the +drawing room spacious and airy, with its three large windows coming down +to the ground, occupied the whole length of the house at the back. On +the left and in front was the flower garden, divided by a carriage +drive, which led out past a lodge to the open camp. The "peones'," or +servants' quarters lay to the right, forming a square, in the centre of +which was a large "euremada," or shed, with four open sides, used for +tying up horses under and for the "peones" to seek shelter from the sun +during the "siesta." + +Further away was the "corral," or yard, in which to shut up horses, and +beyond again were the sheepyards. There was also a considerable area of +cultivated land, where maize, and potatoes, and "alfalfa," a species of +clover, flourished, as did a large quantity of fruit trees, planted all +round an open space, used for the production of vegetables. Winter had +now come, and the weather had become stormy, with cold nights and cold +winds from the South. + +I was out in the camp pretty continually, nevertheless, visiting the +various puestos, and turning inwards the cattle, especially on our +northern boundary. When fine enough I had the Indians at work mending up +the walls of the sheepyards, which were made of loose stones piled one +upon another. These had been greatly neglected at the "Cerro" and needed +building up and repairing, as many gaps were to be seen. Three of the +gates, too, required attention. After a week, however, the weather +improved, so a "para rodeo" of the cattle was arranged for the next day +but one, which was a Saturday. We had our horses tied up the night +before, and were all ready for a start just before sunrise, Don +Frederico and his party coming up from La Concordia just about the same +time. The rodeo, or meeting-place for the cattle, was situate in a +direct line between the Cerro and La Concordia, about half a mile +distant from the former. It had the usual big post planted in the +centre, round which the cattle revolved, and the ground all round was +quite bare of herbage, evidently well trodden by numerous animals. We +had help from three of the puesteros, especially from one named +Marmasola, who not only came himself, but brought three boys with him, +all well mounted. Laborde and Martin arrived from their own side, +accompanied by two or three dogs. I was riding "Carnival," who had now +settled down at the "Cerro," having attached himself to the little grey +mare with one eye, to which he had been collared on his first arrival. +"Napoleon" was in great spirits, paying no attention whatever to the +couple of mongrel terriers who followed behind him. He was quite aware +that serious business was on foot. I got over with the Indians to the +north-western corner of the estancia, and we spread ourselves out, +driving the cattle before us. Some of them seemed inclined to break +back. This was easily prevented, and I found it much easier to do this +here, where it was all open camp, than it had been at the Sierras de Mal +Abrigo, when hindered and surrounded by large masses of rock. Don +Frederico came up from his side with a good deal of help; so altogether +we made a very satisfactory "para rodeo." I had no experience of dealing +with cattle in such large numbers, nor was I surprised to find that care +was needed to keep them all together on the "rodeo," when we got them +there. I felt pretty sure, however, that by bringing them up constantly, +and always keeping them up some time when collected, we should soon get +the herd under complete control. Don Frederico brought with him a Mr. +John Jennings, who was living with him at La Concordia. He was a good +Spanish scholar, and an excellent accountant, fond of gardening, and was +much occupied at the time with the cultivated land there, to which I +have before alluded. His figure was decidedly burly; he had a +good-natured face and thin legs. He did not look well on horseback, as +he appeared too heavy above the saddle, nor was he really much of a +rider. Upon this occasion he bestrode a very dark grey, somewhat low in +condition, and not apparently up to his weight. They both came up to the +Cerro for breakfast: some mutton stewed with rice, hot coffee and camp +biscuits; all very acceptable after the morning's gallop. I let go +"Carnival," and had a little bay horse, with a white blaze and two white +stockings caught up, and when they returned I rode with them as far as +La Concordia. Here I stopped for awhile, and then rode over into the +Swiss Colony to arrange some business which had to be attended to; nor +did I get back to the "Cerro" until about an hour before sunset. + +Curiously enough, since my first arrival, but little seemed to have +happened in regard to the war. Every now and again a party of Blanco +soldiers would ride up, have some food, and go on their way. They did +not take our horses, for these were as yet plentiful, and probably they +had better ones of their own. The Colorados had not come our way at all, +being mostly concentrated near Monte Video, the capital, while a fairly +large force were also encamped in the province of San Josè. Meanwhile +the Blanco army was said to be in great strength out beyond Paysandû, +waiting for finer weather, and until the horses should pick up after the +somewhat early winter. Spring, when it came, advanced rapidly. The days +soon seemed longer and the weather warmer. We had a good deal of +sheep-working on hand, as the flocks came up from the "puestos" to the +Cerro, to be passed through the sheepyards, when it was our custom to +get through one flock in a day. Don Frederico generally rode up to see +how the work progressed, bringing two or three "peones" from La +Concordia, as this winter there was a certain amount of foot-rot among +the sheep, which needed attention. Fortunately, however, this was never +really bad at the Pichinango, as a great part of the camp lay high, and +therefore dry, covered with a hard kind of grass, which grew profusely +between the longer tussock-grass. The flocks near La Concordia, however, +fed on lower ground, but they were passed through the sheepyards there, +when I went down from the Cerro, taking two of the Indians with me to +assist. And so the days passed on one much like another, until the sun +began to shine longer, and the weather to get warmer when at length we +began to realise that summer was not far off. Some four weeks passed +without anything particular happening, and then came the branding of the +calves, always an event of supreme importance on a large South American +estancia. First there was a general "para rodeo" of the cattle, and then +they had to be shut up in the large stone enclosure, or "manga." Our +native neighbours had to be advised beforehand of the appointed day, so +that they might be present to see if any of their animals were by chance +mixed up with our herd. I also obtained the services of three or four +natives in the neighbourhood, known to be good camp men, _i.e._, skilled +in the management of cattle, and especially so at this particular work. +When the appointed day came round, it proved fine and fortunately there +was but little wind. We all made an early start from both ends of the +estancia, and were well on our way when the sun rose in a blue sky. +Having plenty of horsemen, the cattle came up particularly well to the +rodeo, where we kept them revolving round for quite half an hour, and +then by driving a point of tame cattle in front of them, we managed to +get the entire herd inside the "manga" without much difficulty. They did +not quite like the operation; odd animals would try to break away, but +they were quickly brought back, and they looked to me a very large +number, when once inside the stone enclosure; far larger than I had ever +seen shut up together before. Meanwhile two big fires had been lighted +to heat the brands, and all being ready, two natives entered the "manga" +on horseback with their lassoes, and one by one caught and easily +brought out the calves. And so the work progressed, until quite a large +number of calves had already been marked. Then came the time for +breakfast. A young cow was lassoed and killed, its hide quickly taken +off, and the meat cut up into large joints, and placed before the fires +to roast. Biscuits were handed out, also farinha, a kind of +coarsely-ground flour, grown from a plant in Brazil. The neighbours +appeared, each mounted on his best horse, with such silver on their +reins and headstalls, bits, stirrups, or "recados," as they happened to +possess. They mostly wore a gay-coloured summer "poncho," a +broad-brimmed felt hat, black bombachos, or very loose trousers, tucked +into long boots, often ornamented with heavy silver spurs, so that the +whole scene looked quite picturesque. After breakfast there was a short +pause, and then the work went on, and it was between three and four +o'clock in the afternoon before all the calves were branded. The herd +was now let go, and quickly dispersed, doubtless, very glad to be once +more free--now that their knocking about was at length over. And then as +evening drew on young women made their appearance, riding up on +horseback, dressed in their best clothes, and a couple of musicians +turned up anxious to have a meal and to earn a few coppers. Music was +heard on every side, and it was not long before a dance on quite a large +scale was in progress, and apparently greatly enjoyed. Meanwhile the +moon rose and shed its silver light upon the scene. The evening was fine +and warm, and it was after eight o'clock before the company dispersed. I +watched the scene from the flat roof of the Cerro with much interest and +amusement, for it was all quite new to me. However, before half-past +nine o'clock all was quiet, the Indians in the galpon had already gone +to sleep. I heard old Robinson snoring loudly in his room above the +kitchen, so I locked up the doors and retired to my bedroom with the +feeling that all had gone off well; indeed, to me it seemed to have been +nothing less than quite an exciting and altogether satisfactory day. + +Early in November shearing began, which, on an estancia, is the big +business of the year. It took place at the Cerro in the large "galpon," +and suddenly, as it were, the old place began to assume an air of +importance and activity. Old Robinson, who managed the wooden wool-press +during shearing, and for the time being abandoned the culinary art, +started to get all ready, another cook taking his place. Mr. John +Jennings, usually known as Don Juan, came up to take charge inside the +woolshed, being a man of knowledge and experience, while I superintended +the work outside, such as getting up the sheep so that there were always +sufficient ready waiting to keep the shearers going. The afternoon +before shearing was to begin a gang of fifteen shearers arrived on +horseback. They were rather a rough-looking lot, indifferently mounted. +I had half a dozen of their horses collared, and the others, which were +poor, and in bad condition, were turned out to feed with them. These +shearers were supplemented by other natives in our neighbourhood, and by +those of our own people who knew how to shear, so that quite a good +number were ready to commence the important work. A number of sheep were +brought into the yards, and passed up into the small pens, which ran +along outside the galpon, facing the two wide wooden doors. Two men were +ready, waiting to catch the sheep: tie their legs and lay them on the +floor, ready for the shearers. To each shearer, as he finished his sheep +a little tin token called a "lata" was given, these being counted, and +entered up in a book in his name at the end of the day and week. Most of +the payment in money being made at the end of the time. As the wool was +shorn it was gathered up and carried to two large wooden tables, where +it was roughly classified according to quality. It was then put into +long bags, made of a thin open canvas material, which were pressed in +the wooden wool-press before being packed into the carts, which carried +them away. The shearers had all to be fed with their proper allowance of +rations, a matter requiring care and attention, and sheep had to be +slaughtered each morning, and every now and again a fat cow, as they +managed to consume quite a large amount of meat. Don Juan was very +good-natured and pleasant to do with. He thoroughly understood how the +work should be carried on, and how best to control shearers, and as I +was glad to assist him in my spare time, I was able to gain a good deal +of useful experience which might not otherwise have come my way. +Shearing could only go on during fine weather; after rain the sheep had +to get quite dry again before they could be shorn. When this happened, +as also in the evenings, Don Juan would instruct me in book-keeping, and +in writing Spanish, both of which I was well aware would be of value to +me as time went on. Day succeeded day, and fortunately during the second +half of November we had an exceptionally fine spell of weather, without +it being unduly hot. So the shearing of the sheep made good progress. +Don Frederico Dampier, who rode up from La Concordia nearly every day, +seemed very pleased to see how things were going; indeed, the second +week of December found us finishing up the last of the sheep. One +afternoon Charles Bent came over from the Sierras for a short visit, +which was a great pleasure, as I was able to hear how Royd was getting +on, and how things were going over there, and if many soldiers were +about. He appeared mounted on his best horse, a good-looking light +brown, with a white star on his forehead, and a white stocking on the +off hind leg, also a few white hairs at the root of his tail, apparently +in the pink of condition. He told us that Royd had now removed all his +remaining stock to his friend's estancia near San José, where he seemed +to have settled down, and to be quite happy. Nothing now was left at the +Sierras, and the place was to be handed back to its owner very shortly. +Bent said he himself intended to go back to his relatives, up towards +the Rio Negro, so we persuaded him to prolong his visit to the Cerro +before doing so. He lent a hand inside the galpon, gave out latas to +the shearers, and saw to various little matters needing attention, so +both Jennings and I were very glad to have him with us during the last +days of the shearing. When it ended it was a not unusual custom for the +day following to be kept as a general holiday before the company finally +dispersed, and the shearers took their departure. Don Juan, who was +quite _au fait_ at this kind of thing, thereupon arranged that on this +day there should be a grand race, in which Bent proposed to ride his own +horse, and a native, who had a "rosillo," or roan, he fancied very much, +whom the natives generally thought a lot of, offered to ride his horse +against him. The course arranged, was to be from the Cañada Grande, +opposite Laborde's puesto, up to the Cerro, which was about a mile and a +quarter, more or less. Both riders accordingly paid much attention to +their steeds, giving them a daily ration of maize, and morning and +evening exercise. Of course, there was a good deal of betting amongst +the people in the galpon, for the South American Spaniard is a real +gambler at heart, and the race was a much more exciting affair than the +games of cards and dice throwing, etc., which habitually went on among +the shearers during the evening when work was over. Don Juan, too, had +always been fond of a bit of racing, and did not hesitate to back Bent's +horse, which he pronounced the best of the two, supposing always he was +able to stay the course. It was somewhat a stiff one, and longer than +usual, the ground rising considerably during the last part of it. Bent +considered this to be to his advantage, as his horse, accustomed to the +Sierras, went exceedingly well over uneven ground, and he felt quite +confident he should win the race. On the appointed day the weather was +fine, and, as it happened there was no wind. The start was to be at +eleven o'clock, and I was one of those chosen to see it made, and to +send the horses and their riders on their way. Both apparently looked +all right as they jogged quietly down to the starting point. Quite a +crowd had collected to see the finish. Everyone wore their best clothes, +and the old Cerro for the moment looked quite gay. It had seen many +events and happenings in its time. A first-rate start was made, and the +horses got away quite even. Then Bent's horse took a slight lead, but at +the end of half a mile, to our great astonishment, suddenly collapsed, +shivering all over, and breaking out all at once into a thick lather of +white sweat; indeed, for four or five minutes he could scarcely stand, +swaying all the time to and fro on his legs, like a drunken man. I did +not know the least what had happened, but Jennings, who was well up in +these matters, at once stated his opinion that the horse had been got at +early that morning by one of the natives, who must have given him some +poison, probably the leaves of a shrub which grew on the banks of the +river Pichinango, for he said all the symptoms were just those which the +leaves of that plant would produce, and he had known it done more than +once before. These began to pass off during the afternoon, and the horse +to recover; indeed, by next morning he looked as if nothing had been the +matter with him. Of course, however, nothing could be proved: the stakes +had to be paid over, and the bets, which were mostly in favour of the +rosillo, had to be paid also. I myself had bet nothing on either horse, +so I was no loser, for, unlike Jennings, as a matter of fact, I really +had no taste for racing. There was, of course, a good deal of +excitement, and some quarrelling, in the galpon during the evening--more +especially as that day, being a general holiday, there had been a +certain amount of Caña on the go; but Don Juan managed to quiet things +down. Then the night came, and as it always does, overshadowed all +things. The next morning all the shearers, having received payment for +their work, mounted their horses and departed, and the old Cerro once +again resumed its usual aspect of quiet and dignified seclusion. The old +year passed peacefully away, and the new one came in with all its +possibilities and all its hopes and fears. Meanwhile, Mrs. Dampier and +the children had returned to La Concordia, from their visit to Monte +Video, which really had been prolonged longer than they expected. + +This was chiefly owing to the war, which made the long journey less safe +than in time of peace, and there was always the danger of having the +horses taken as you travelled through the open country. Don Frederico +had gone into town to return with them, taking two peones with him, and +quite a large tropilla of horses. People generally in disturbed times +travelled by the diligence, which plied to and fro pretty regularly on +the "Camino Real," or Government road--but it was a most uncomfortable +mode of conveyance for a lady with children, so in spite of the risk it +was preferable to travel in one's own carriage, with a good supply of +horses and a reasonable escort. Fortunately, all went well, and they +reached home safely without any trouble or contretemps of any kind. + +During the middle of January the weather became very hot, and work had +to be suspended from twelve until two o'clock as a matter of course, and +very often longer, for in those good old days, as they were called, the +custom of keeping the siesta during the summer months held sway over the +length and breadth of the republic. The old Indian, Feliciano, who lived +in a little house built of stone down below the big manga, was a +wonderful old man. He looked after the flock of rams, and was now quite +old; a true Indian of the Pampas, both in appearance and character, and +his son, Juan, who was up with me at the Cerro, must have been himself +well over fifty years of age. Old Feliciano himself was extremely silent +and reserved. I don't think I ever heard him speak more than three or +four consecutive words at any one time. But he was most scrupulous in +the performance of duty in regard to looking after his flock, which was +never neglected under any circumstances whatever. He had been years at +the Cerro, where for a long time it was impossible to get him to live in +any kind of house. He preferred to live in a "tolda," a shelter made of +mare's hides, stretched over a light wooden frame, as did the original +Indians of the Pampa, from whom he sprang, and among whom he was reputed +to have been a leader or chief. As the sun set below the western horizon +he would walk to some little rise of the ground, where he could better +see it, and facing it, fall down on his knees and say a short prayer. He +did not like being observed, but I have myself watched him do this when +he was not aware that I was within sight. He had descendants living +round him to the second and third generation. He was said to have been a +famous horseman in his time, as indeed were all his race, for they +practically passed their whole lives on horseback. + +I had been riding a brown horse, with a wall-eye, and some white hairs +in his tail; he was not much to look at, but I found him to be +sure-footed and comfortable, and a good horse among cattle. There was a +little chestnut, too, which was very pleasant to ride. The Indians had +horses of various sorts and colours, which they had been accustomed to +ride themselves. Among these was a little rosillo, or roan, which I +noticed Justiano liked to saddle up frequently, particularly when work +amongst cattle was going on. He was not much to look at, being small, +with rather a hollow back, and he seemed to me poor in condition, and to +be overworked. Moreover, I saw that he had a nasty sore underneath the +recado, one day when he was being unsaddled, so I took pity on him, and +told the Indian not to ride him in future, as I would try to dress the +wound, and if possible get it well. So I washed it myself, night and +morning, applying a solution of tincture of arnica, and it soon began to +mend. The horse, too, improved in condition by a little rest and freedom +from pain. When the wound seemed nearly all right again, I saddled him +up with my English saddle, and took him out for about an hour. I enjoyed +riding him; he was so full of go; but at the same time docile and quiet. +When I saw Don Frederico, he told me his history. One afternoon at the +end of the Flores War, a soldier rode up to La Concordia, and asked for +a fresh horse. "I cannot think what has come to this one," he said. "He +is a real good one, but no sooner did we cross the river Rosario, coming +from the Swiss colony, than he seemed to collapse all at once. He has +come nearly ten leagues (30 miles), without shewing any sign of being +tired." Don Frederico himself came out at the moment, and looked at the +horse. "I can tell you," he said. "The rosillo has our mark, and so soon +as he crossed the river he knew he was on his own camp, where he was +born. He must have been caught as a 'potro,' or colt, and have been +tamed by the soldiers. Except that he carries the mark of this estancia, +we none of us know anything about him. However, go to the kitchen and +get some refreshment, and we will give you another horse, and doubtless +the rosillo will be glad enough to find himself at home again." No +sooner, however, was he let loose, than he gave two or three neighs of +joy and then he trotted off, straight up to the Cerro, and joined the +horses there, so we could only conclude he must have originally been +caught and taken from the Cerro end of the estancia. Such was his +history, and I now saw after him myself, and took him for my own riding. +He was a real good little horse, and I liked him more and more as time +went on. Napoleon liked him, too, and used to lie down beside him when I +had him tied up under the "ombu" tree, which gave so good a protection +from the sun in the courtyard, and then as evening came I let him loose, +so that he might join the other horses, and feed and enjoy himself to +his heart's content. + +As it happened, since the New Year, no soldiers had passed the Cerro, +nor had we heard any news of the war, but I was quite prepared to look +upon this as merely an interlude, and we kept a good look out, +especially in the early morning and late evening. So soon as the hot +spell passed, and the weather became cooler, our first business was a +gathering together of the horses. This meant a general sweep up of +everything in the shape of a horse on the estancia: the riding horses at +La Concordia and the Cerro alone excepted, for these were brought up +into the corral each morning, in accordance with the daily routine. +There were two large "manadas," or troops of mares with foals at the +Pichinango, one called the "saino," or brown, and the other the "moro," +or dark blue roan; these being the colours of the respective stallions +which presided over them. These "manadas" usually fed quite apart, on +different portions of the camp. They each made up a large number, as +they included not only yearling foals, but both colts and fillies of two +and three years old, although the former of these usually cut themselves +off from the main body, forming small points feeding by themselves. To +gather together so many horses and keep them in control a good many +horsemen were needed, so nearly everyone who could ride joined in. +Marmasola, who had a small lot of mares of his own which fed on the +estate, was in great force with his sons and two other native friends. +Laborde and Martin were always ready to help, and the Indians were +delighted at the prospect of a really first-class gallop. I got a man +called Pedro Lima, living in the Swiss Colony, but really himself a +native, and a first-rate camp man, to come and take charge of the +operation of getting all the horses shut up in the big manga; not an +easy matter unless they were skilfully handled; and I asked him to bring +two or three of his native friends well-mounted with him. In accordance +with camp etiquette, I sent round to our native neighbours, inviting +them to come and join us, as we intended branding some foals, so giving +them the opportunity to come and see if any of their animals were by +chance mixed up with our horses. The appointed day proved fine, and we +were all in the saddle before sunrise, old Robinson alone excepted. We +had arranged to join up with Marmasola and the party from La Concordia +and so form a continuous line, driving everything in the shape of a +horse straight in front of us in the direction of the Cerro. It must be +remembered that this was a much more critical job than gathering up the +cattle, as the horses could travel as fast or faster than we could. +Moreover, when dealing with them in large numbers, care and good +management were a real necessity if they were to be shut up inside the +manga at all. I rode "Carnival"; the Indians were mounted as they liked +themselves; "Napoleon," although he was no use, would not be left +behind. Don Frederico and Mr. Jennings and their people joined us at the +place appointed, as did Pedro Lima and his friends, as well as the +puesteros, when plans were laid down and instructions given all round as +to how the work was to be carried out. Don Frederico, who was a +beautiful rider, was mounted on his gay rosillo. He always rode on a +recado, with silver mounting in front and behind; he had silver fittings +to his bridle, and chain reins for a little way, just where they joined +the bit, then made of well-worked and softened hide, with silver rings. +He wore long boots, silver spurs, and carried a light summer poncho +across his saddle in front of him. Altogether, a picturesque figure!--a +true estanciero of the old régime--nor do I think he was ever happier +than when he felt his best horse under him, and work of this particular +kind was the order of the day. + +Jennings, on his dark grey, cut a different figure; he did not look the +genuine camp man at all, neither was he in the slightest degree; and it +was easy to see that work of this kind was not congenial to him. +Marmasola and his boys were in great spirits. What he did not know about +horses was not worth knowing, although he himself was not a great rider; +advancing years were beginning to tell their tale. But he had been +through the war of Oribé, generally known as the Big War. He remembered +the traditions of "the past," and as he had now been on the estate for a +great number of years, certain privileges were accorded to him; but at +the same time he would spare no trouble and was always willing to do +anything he could to benefit the estancia and its owner. We all formed +into line on the western boundary, facing towards the Cerro, stretching +out both to right and left, and riding some three hundred yards apart. +We allowed the cattle to go back between us, but drove all horses of +every kind in front of us. Some of the colts tried hard to break back, +and for the moment succeeded, but were eventually rounded up and brought +back within the line. "Carnival" carried me splendidly: he was really +very fast, and at the same time perfectly sure-footed. He made one feel +quite safe even at full speed, and it was a pleasure to be so well +mounted. Meanwhile, the line kept drawing in, and as the horses in front +of us began to get up towards the manga, Pedro Lima and a couple of +natives, by making a swift detour, got round in front of them so as to +round them up as much as possible, more or less where the rodeo of the +cattle was situate, and so to keep them in some measure under control +until we all came up from behind and were able to form a regular ring +round them. Meanwhile the old Indian, Feliciano, had some half a dozen +tame horses not very far from the open gateway of the manga, and as +these gave a convenient lead to all the others, we got the whole lot +safely inside without much difficulty. This was fortunate, because if +horses in a round-up of this description once succeed in breaking away +in any number together, they are very difficult to get back again, owing +to the speed at which they can travel. Once inside the manga, however, +we were able to look them over at our leisure. There were a good many +foals to be branded, so a fire was got ready. Moreover, breakfast had to +be thought of, and it was not very long before a couple of roasts were +preparing in front of it. We found there were nearly a dozen colts over +four years old which in the ordinary way ought to have been caught up to +be tamed, but owing to the war, it was decided to put this off for a +year, for the reason that a good-looking colt which shewed any signs of +having been handled, was more likely to be taken by soldiers than one +which had been left entirely alone. They were very clever at seeing into +this, even when the animals were feeding in the open camp. We found some +riding horses shut up with the troop which did not belong to the +estancia, but had probably been left behind by soldiers as they passed. +These we caught up and took down to La Concordia, so that they might +meanwhile do such work as they were able. If they could do nothing else +they would be good enough for the puesteros to look after their sheep +on, or for the ordinary routine work of the estancia. It was very +interesting to watch all the horses when gathered together in the manga. +I had never, of course, seen so many collected before, and it was a +pretty sight to watch them and to note their different colours and +characteristics. During the interval for breakfast the two stallions +occupied themselves in having a fight, attacking each other fiercely; +standing on their hind legs and striking at each other with their fore +feet; then they would go round in a circle, each looking out for an +opportunity to strike more effectively. Many of the mares too were busy +picking up their belongings,--as they would often have a foal and a +yearling, and even a two-year-old descendant regularly following after +them. + +It was very interesting to watch them all, and to observes their ways +and manners. There was plenty of opportunity to do this, as after the +foals were branded we did not let them go until between three and four +o'clock. When at last they were turned loose, they did not let the grass +grow under their feet, but soon divided themselves off more or less into +their own lots, and with their own companions. Indeed, had they been +looked up early on the following morning they would have probably been +found feeding more or less together in the same groups, and on the same +particular part of the estancia where we had originally found them. The +weather had now become quite hot again, and we had continual sunshine +for nearly a fortnight. There was a stone puesto about half way between +the Cerro and the "Pass of the Pichinango," where an old negro called +Tio Benigno lived, looking after a flock of sheep. He was now dead, and +the flock had been removed, but his so-called widow, black like himself, +was still living on there, with a numerous progeny of various sorts and +sizes, almost destitute of clothes who ran in and out of the abode like +rabbits, when anyone happened to ride up. They seemed to be living on +the rations which had been allowed to the departed parent, which were +still being allowed to them. Don Frederico would have been glad if I +could have got them to leave the puesto altogether, but the question was +where were they to go? I was riding down to La Concordia during the +siesta when I saw a peculiar sight. As I was about to cross the Cañada +Grande, a short way further up the stream, the black lady was sitting +astride an old dun horse, short both of mane and tail in the middle of a +large pool, with a fishing rod in her hand, apparently intent on +fishing. Of clothes she had none. Such garments as she possessed lay in +a heap on the bank by the water. Her black skin fairly shone and +glistened in the sunshine. On her head was an old black silk top hat, +which also reflected the rays of light. It had doubtless been a gift to +her departed husband from one of the young Englishmen who might have +been staying at the Cerro, presumably with no idea, however, that it +would be put to its present use. The lady saw me pass, but did not +appear in the least to mind. She simply gave a broad grin, and leaving +her to pursue her peaceful occupation, I passed on my way. Not very long +afterwards someone who had known her husband asked her to go and keep an +eye on quite a small lot of sheep, and also to act as "lavandera," or +washer-woman, as well. So I persuaded her not to lose the opportunity of +changing her abode, and gladly sent a cart to move such belongings as +she had. Indeed, I was glad to have the puesto empty, for it was in the +direct route along which soldiers would pass coming from the town of +Colla, and going north, and it seemed better that they should have the +road clear in front of them. Rumour in time of revolution was always +busy, and it was said that the Colorados intended for some reason best +known to themselves to fall back before very long from the province of +Colonia, and join up with their main force in the province of San Josè. +Should this prove correct, it seemed probable that a portion of the +Blanco army, which, during all this time had been steadily concentrating +up beyond Paysandû, would seize the opportunity to occupy that province +themselves. That being so, it seemed obvious that open hostilities, +which had now for some time seemed far away from us, would come much +nearer. The fact was it was impossible to foresee what lay before us in +the future, and all we could do was to carry on as well as we could for +the present, and hope for the best. + +Up to now we had certainly been very fortunate, for our horses had not +been taken; all had gone on very much as usual; nor had there been any +interference either with our sheep or cattle. There happened to be two +colts among the horses at the Cerro nearly five years old: a bay and a +brown, and I determined to have these tamed. One was the foal of the bay +"madrina" mare, and the other had joined the troop on its own account. +They were both accustomed to come up each day into the corral, and to +see people about, nor had either of them led the wild life of the open +camp. So there was every reason to suppose they would prove docile, and +I did not trouble to look out for a regular "domador," or horse-tamer, +as I thought that Juan, the Indian, would manage, with the help of his +nephews, both of whom were good riders. The rough and ready system of +taming in the old days consisted of lassoing a colt in the yard, tying +him up to a post for the night, and next morning saddling him up with a +"recado," with the "cincha," or broad hide girth, as tight as possible. +A narrow piece of hide nicely softened was then tied twice round the +lower jaw, to which the reins were attached, a couple of pieces of soft +sheepskin were fastened over the framework of the recado, while the four +legs of the animal were tied together by a "maneador," or long thong of +hide, in such a manner that by giving one pull it would all come loose +and fall to the ground. The colt was then untied from the post to which +he had been made fast, and up got the rider, who was going to give him +his first gallop. Two men were ready on horseback, one on either side, +while a third man on foot gave the thong round the horse's legs a sharp +pull, when it fell loose. Usually the colt would make a wild rush +forward, the two horsemen keeping each as close to him as they could on +either side, so as to steer him in a straight line. Old Juan was now +over fifty, nor was he a regular tamer; but he could still sit tight on +a horse which did not buck-jump too hard or too long, and there was +always the chance that he would not buck-jump at all, but just bolt off +across the open camp. With the bay colt even this did not happen, for he +merely lunged forward at a sort of uneven trot, wondering very much at +finding anyone on his back. Then he stopped, unwilling to proceed, which +Justiniano quickly made him do by a free application of his whip. +Eventually he made his first gallop all right and came back apparently +having had quite enough of it. That evening the brown colt was tied up +as had been the bay, and the same procedure was followed in the early +morning. Unfortunately, however, he buck-jumped rather badly, so soon as +he was mounted and let loose, and he gave Old Juan a bit of a shaking, +but he did not do it for long, and the Indian was able to sit tight and +give the colt his first gallop, bringing him back quite sufficiently +subdued for one day at any rate. + +The gallops went on each morning, with both the colts for about ten +days, by the end of which time not only was there no more buck-jumping, +but they were beginning to get handy even to the extent of answering the +pressure of the rein on the side of the neck, and of turning in some +measure as required. + +Juan was quite proud of his performance, and began to imagine he was a +young man again and a regular horse tamer. Moreover, an extra allowance +of Caña, or white rum, of which he was always fond, and at once took +effect upon him, made him talk most amusingly of all the colts he had +tamed in his early life, and the wonderful things he had done. At the +end of three weeks, both the colts were bitted and could be ridden +either by Margarito or Justiniano, and it was not long before they were +able to take their place among the tame horses. + +Attached, as they were, to the tropillas, they were as likely to be +taken by soldiers as colts as they would be when tamed, for they would +know well enough that young horses among their surroundings were not at +all likely to be difficult to break in. I had been lately riding a +"manchado," or piebald horse, which had been bred and born town of +Colla. He had not much to commend him, but he was easy and quiet to +ride. A sad story was connected with him. Between two and three years +previously a young Englishman of good position who had come out to have +a look at the country, was staying as a guest at the Cerro. One day he +rode the "manchado" over to the little country town of Colla. He had not +much to recommend him. Returning late at night, he unsaddled the horse +in the small yard, just outside the stable. He then took off the bridle, +and then, not thinking what he was doing, gave the horse a hit with the +reins on his quarters, to drive him out of the yard. The horse kicked +out sharply with both hind feet, one hoof catching him just under the +throat, and the other at the pit of the stomach. He fell senseless to +the ground, and must have remained unconscious for some time. When he +came round, he managed to crawl into the galpon and awake the Indians, +who, as usual, were fast asleep. They gave the alarm, and a messenger +was sent in all haste for a doctor, who was then living on a small place +he had beyond and to the eastward of the Cerro. He kindly came over at +once, and applied such remedies as he could, but to no purpose, for the +poor young man during the morning again became unconscious, and late in +the afternoon passed quietly to his rest. It was indeed a sad business, +and what made it worse was the thought of how easily it might have been +avoided. The "manchado" used to rear a bit at times, but not really +badly, and I never knew him show the least sign of kicking during the +time I had anything to do with him. Later on, I handed him over to +Justiniano, who always gave his heels an uncommonly wide berth, and +eventually he was taken by a party of soldiers, and we saw no more of +him. About a week later I had occasion to ride over one afternoon to the +pulperia on the other side of the pass across the river Rosario, +opposite to Marmasola's puesto. I called in as I passed to enquire if +there was any news, and I saw his wife, who told me her husband was out +with the flock. Reaching the pulperia, I found the owner, a tall +good-natured looking man, at home, and we soon arranged the business +about which I had come. He then told me that towards the end of the +previous week Mamerto Gomez, a captain in the Red army, was coming out +of the town of Colla with a troop of Colorado soldiers, on his way +towards the province of San Josè. A short distance beyond the furthest +houses a poor cripple sat by the side of the road begging. Mamerto +halted as he passed, and turning to one of his soldiers, said, "Mata me +aquel Bicho amigo," "Friend, kill that reptile for me," whereupon the +man got off his horse and cut the poor cripple's throat from ear to ear. +Leaving the dead body by the roadside, Mamerto Gomez and his troop +passed on their way as if nothing had happened. I asked the pulpero if +he had ever seen Mamerto, and what he was like? "Yes, Señor, I have seen +him two or three times," he said, "and not long ago"; and he at once +gave me particulars as to his appearance. Of course, I had no difficulty +in recognizing him as the same Mamerto Gomez I had first seen at the +Pulperia de Guaycoru, when the old negro said to me, "Cuidado, beware!" +and as the man who had been seen entering the Sierras de Mai Abrigo, +whom Royd had always believed to be the real cause of all his trouble +and ill-luck, viz., the sad death of poor Henriquez, and the stealing of +Bent's flock, and the attempt to break in to his puesto at night. I +called at Marmasola's as I rode back, and found him in, and, as usual, +we discussed the war. He, too, had heard that the Reds were leaving +Colonia, and thought it would not be long before the Blancos turned up +there in considerable force, when he thought it likely we might have +parties of soldiers coming our way, as we should then be in the direct +line of route between them and the concentration of their main army out +towards Paysandû; so there was pretty sure to be a certain amount of +coming and going. He also told me a story of two young Englishmen who +came out to Monte Video during the Flores War, with the intention of +making their way up country. They started to ride out from there alone, +without any guide, and very foolishly, before leaving the city, they +drew a considerable sum of money from the bank, which they carried out +with them. They reached San Josè all right, and the following day +proceeded on their way in the direction of the Cerro del Pichinango, +where they intended to pass the night. They stopped at a pulperia, or +store, for some refreshment about eleven o'clock, where there happened +to be about a dozen natives, among whom were four or five of very bad +character. Such was the account given to the police, who afterwards made +enquiries. Whether they let these men know they had money with them +nobody ever knew. They were known to be dressed each in a light tweed +suit, with a large check pattern on it. The two young Englishmen were +never heard of again, but a long time afterwards pieces of the cloth +they were said to have been wearing were found in the wood on the +further side of the river Rosario, not far from the pass which led over +to the Estancia Pichinango. The conclusion come to was that three or +four of the natives got on in front of them and attacked them, probably +just as they were about to enter the pass, which was rather a wide one, +and having shot them, either dragged or carried the bodies into the +wood; of course, taking the money and everything they possessed from +them. Whether or where they buried the bodies, of course, was not known. +So much time having elapsed, it was impossible to make further +enquiries. They had simply vanished--and being war-time, it was supposed +that anything might have happened to them, for at that time in the camp +murders even in broad daylight were by no means uncommon. + +Marmasola always assumed a very serious aspect when telling this story, +which usually ended by his sitting down on a "banco," or low wooden +stool, and drawing the size of the check pattern on the garments of the +deceased on the mud floor with the point of his knife, at the same time +saying in a solemn tone, "Los dos pobres finados caramba!" "Alas, for +the two poor dead men!" + +I allowed him to finish without interruption, and then I mounted my +horse and rode home to the Cerro, pondering on the many vicissitudes +which it seemed possible might happen to the unwary during life in +war-time in a South American republic. Nothing had happened during my +absence. We got the "tamberos" up to their rodeo, and kept them there +awhile, and when I got back the little flock of southdowns were about +ready to be shut up in their sheepyard for the night. I looked them over +to see that they were all right, and then I went up on to the flat roof +of the house to have a good look round with the glass, and so see if all +was quiet. The sun meanwhile was about to set, and it was not long +before the light began to fade, and one more day had passed and was +gone. When next I saw Don Frederico he discussed the situation, and said +he thought it would be wise to sell a certain number of the "capones," +or wether sheep, which were now in good condition, and also to get a +tropero, or buyer of cattle of good position to come and purchase as +many "novillos," or bullocks, as we could get him to take, as by so +doing we should not only lessen the stock we had to look after on the +estancia, but it would do away with the risk of losing them. The +"capones" chiefly fed together in one flock near La Concordia, with a +certain number in two of the other flocks, so there need be no delay in +having them parted out so soon as we could arrange with a purchaser. So +he decided to attend to this within the next day or two. Meanwhile, if I +heard of anyone likely to purchase up in my direction, I was to let him +know. He also said he would write to one or two of the troperos, who had +been accustomed to buy novillos from us, informing them that we had a +good number for sale, and asking them whether they would be able to make +up a troop. It was not long before two buyers of sheep applied at La +Concordia. A day was fixed for parting them out, and I went down early +with two of the Indians to help to pass the flock through the +sheepyards. The purchasers happened to be friends, so agreed to part +both together on the same day, and divide the sheep between them +afterwards. Altogether they took between six and seven hundred, and +after they had finished we helped them over the Pass of the Rosario, +facing the Swiss Colony, where they intended to shut them up for the +night, before continuing their journey to the town of Colla, where one +of them resided. During the following week we passed the other two +flocks through the sheepyards at the Cerro, drafting out all the capones +and sending them down to the flock at La Concordia to replace the sheep +there which had been already sold. + +Early in the following week, a little before eleven o'clock, a tropero +arrived at the Cerro, and enquired if he could see Don Frederico, as he +wanted to buy some "novillos." I had been out early on horseback, and +had not long returned, and was just about to have some breakfast. I told +him that he was at La Concordia, at the other end of the estancia, and +invited him to come inside and join me, which he seemed pleased to do. +He had a peon with him with a led horse in addition to the ones they +rode, whom I directed to get something to eat in the galpon. The tropero +was grandly dressed in full native costume, a beautiful summer poncho, +bombachos of very fine black merino, tucked inside long boots, the +latter adorned with large silver spurs, and I noticed he was fully +armed. He was an agreeable man, evidently well educated, and he told me +he had two other men and a tropilla of horses in the neighbourhood who +had gone to look at some bullocks at a small native estancia. Breakfast +over, I left him to finish his coffee and smoke, while I went out to +tell Justiniano to catch me up another horse. I then offered to +accompany him as far as La Concordia, so that if Don Frederico happened +to be out, I could have him sent for with as little delay as possible. I +gathered the tropero wished to make up quite a large troop, en route for +Monte Video, and as we had a good many animals to sell, I did my best to +make conversation. Fortunately, when we reached La Concordia, we found +Don Frederico at home. The tropero's credentials were quite satisfactory +to him, as was the price offered. It was therefore agreed that he should +part out and purchase all the novillos on the estancia which he thought +old enough and in sufficiently good condition to take. We on our part +undertook to have all the cattle gathered on the rodeo on Thursday +morning, so that he could part out his bullocks, and to help him to the +best of our power--payment, as usual, to be made on delivery. The +business concluded, the tropero had a glass or two of wine and departed. +He said he had plenty of horses with him for his men. I then rode back +at once to the Cerro, and sent off one of the Indians to advise our +native neighbours and the other round to Laborde, Martin and Marmasola, +to inform them at their puestos of what we had arranged, so that they +might give help as usual. We tied up horses on Wednesday evening, and +made all ready for an early start. I rode "Carnival," the Indians, too, +were fairly well mounted. We met the party from La Concordia, Don +Frederico riding his rosillo, with two big dogs following him, and +Jennings mounted on his dark grey; he seldom rode anything else. The +tropero and his men did not take part in gathering the cattle, but +joined us at the rodeo, near the Cerro, mounted on their best horses, +while the others they had with them were meanwhile feeding not far off, +with a boy in attendance, to look after them. The cattle came up well, +and just as we got to the rodeo, Pedro Lima arrived with a couple of +natives, and also three or four of our neighbours beyond the Cerro +turned up, so we had plenty of help to keep the cattle well under +control. Don Frederico and the tropero came up to the house for some +coffee and a biscuit, but we were soon back again, when the work of +parting out the bullocks at once began. A point of tame cattle had +meanwhile been brought up to a suitable position a short distance from +the herd. These were guarded by Juan, the Indian, with his two nephews +to help him. The tropero was mounted on an "oscuro," or black brown +horse, and his two men rode one a grey and the other a bay. + +He began by riding in among the cattle with one of his men, singling out +a suitable bullock, and then the two together, one on either side, ran +it out into the point of tame cattle, where it had to remain whether it +liked to or not. Then a second bullock was run out, and so on, one after +another, until quite a good number were parted. One of the tropero's men +now went to help the Indians to guard them, as every now and again one +would try to escape, intent on rejoining the main herd, and occasionally +a bullock would break loose and make for the open camp, determined to +fight hard for liberty. But it was not to be! for the men were +well-mounted and knew their business, and the horses knew theirs. They +were, of course, faster than the bullocks, and when an animal was +desperate, and really refractory the lasso came into play, and he was +brought back his energy spent, and having been well bullied about he +generally thought it better to keep quiet for the time being. A really +good horse for work of this kind must be safe and quick on his legs, and +have plenty of courage. Indeed, the best thing the rider can do, if well +mounted, is to sit tight and leave as much as he can to his horse, who +seemed to know all that was expected of him, and was seldom found to +fail. + +It was now eleven o'clock, seventy-five bullocks had been parted; each +one being counted as it went by two people. So a fire was lighted, and a +large "asado," or roast of mutton, put on, a little coffee and sugar, +some biscuits, farinha and yerba, for the men's Matè were brought down +from the Cerro, and it was not long before breakfast was ready. When up +at the house I let "Carnival" go, and saddled up the rosillo, who was +now in first-rate condition. Work was resumed with as little delay as +possible, and when the tropero announced it was time to stop one hundred +and sixty bullocks had been parted. The tropero seemed well satisfied, +and so were we. Our next business was to give him every assistance to +get the animals outside the boundary of the estancia, where they would +be easier to manage than they were on their own camp. Meanwhile we kept +the tame animals with the novillos which had been parted, to give them a +lead and so render them easier to drive, and we made a start towards the +pass of the Rosario, beyond Marmasola's puesto. There being many of us, +we had no difficulty in getting them across the pass, and when they had +gone a short distance on strange ground we parted out the tame cattle, +and I returned with them to the Cerro. Don Frederico and Jennings, also +the tropero, rode to La Concordia, to receive payment and give the usual +certificate, shewing the mark and number of the animals sold, this +document being required for the police. The sun was now declining fast +towards the horizon, and we had made a fairly long day. Supper, when it +came, was welcome, and the pipe which followed it; and having duly +recorded particulars in the log-book, I was not sorry to lock up and get +early to bed. Autumn was now past, and it would not be long before +winter, with its rain and storm, cold nights and early mornings, would +be really upon us. I had three cart-loads of wood brought up from the +"monte," where we had some men working. Some of the flocks had to be +passed through the sheepyards, and what with attending to one thing and +another, I always found the day pretty fully occupied. Ten days later a +party of Blanco soldiers rode up and asked if they could have some food, +and also fresh horses. They were on their way to the town of Colla, +having passed not far from Guaycoru, as they travelled from outside. +With them was Colonel Mallada, who had sent back Francisco's pony at Las +Sierras de Mal Abrigo. He had a great reputation among the natives as a +fighter. When I went out I found him sitting on his horse, surrounded by +some twenty soldiers. I invited him to get off and come in and have some +breakfast while the soldiers lit a fire at a little distance, and made +themselves a roast outside, for, as it happened, we had a whole sheep +hanging in the galpon, ready skinned and dressed. I was amused to see +the attitude of the Indians when the Colonel passed through into the +courtyard. They stood up together on one side, as it were, at attention, +with a very solemn expression of countenance, and they evidently looked +upon him as a man to be feared rather than loved. He was quite civil +during our meal, and told me that a large division of the Blancos were +coming down to occupy the province of Colonia, while the main army was +now largely concentrated outside, waiting for a favourable opportunity +to march in to the province of San Josè, and so on towards the capital +itself. He seemed to enjoy a cigarette with his coffee after our meal, +and a glass of Caña also met with approval. Meanwhile, I had told +Justiniano to get all the horses up into the corral. I had "Carnival" +tied up under the ombu tree in the courtyard. The Colonel himself was +well-mounted on a good-looking grey, apparently quite fresh. The +soldiers caught five of our horses, and left us three tired ones, so we +did not get off so badly after all, and I was very glad to think that +the rosillo, whose back I had cured, was not among them. They all rode +off, apparently satisfied, towards the Pass of the Pichinango, and we +were all glad to see them depart. But it made me think, and realise what +now might at any time happen, and I determined to have the rosillo +caught up and tied in the courtyard oftener than I had done, and to keep +a sharp look-out over "Carnival." At two of the puestos the shepherds +were each somewhat of a character in their way. They were both of them +"bascos," _i.e._, either natives of or having originated from one of the +Bay of Biscay provinces in Spain. One of them, whose name was Gaitan, +looked after what was known as the "Fine Flock," because it contained +the highest strain of Negretti blood. From it were selected the male +lambs, which were to be the future rams for the other flocks. He was now +no longer in middle age, bent in figure, and slow in his movements. He +lived quite alone, doing his own cooking and washing, and he wore +remarkably old clothes. He had been for many years on the estancia, +getting the usual pay of a puestero, viz., fifteen dollars and +thirty-six cents per month (just over £3), together with his allowance +of meat and rations, viz., farinha, yerba and salt, which he received +monthly. His only luxury was a little tobacco, and he was said to be +somewhat of a miser, and to be quite rich. He was usually seen +bestriding an old and rather poor horse, but he was a very good +shepherd, and except when cooking or eating his meals, or towards +evening, when his sheep were drawing home, I never knew him to be long +absent from his flock. He was extremely reserved and silent, and I +always found it difficult to carry on a conversation with him. His +puesto was situate to the north of La Concordia, rather towards the +centre of the estancia, and really not very far distant from the +former. The other shepherd was called Anjel; he was a much younger man, +although he looked older than he really was. He, too, was reserved and +silent, and I often wondered if it was the solitary life he led which +tended towards this, and whether he would have appeared a somewhat +different man if he had been cast among other surroundings. He had +neither wife nor child, and like Gaitan, was but a poor rider, and I +never saw him on a decent-looking horse. But he had usually a dog with +him, and I often saw a cat or two when I visited his puesto, situate +close to the river Pichinango, some little distance below the pass. Here +the grass was good and plentiful, and his flock, which was rather a +large one, did very well. He was a most careful and conscientious +shepherd, and a skilled worker in wasca, or raw hide, of which he +manufactured reins and headstalls, and whips and hobbles; indeed, +everything of the kind a well-equipped horseman would require. Just +about this time I did not happen to be very busy, so was able to shoot a +few partridge, more correctly described as "quail," which were now in +good condition, and made a pleasant variation in diet. There was a +little single barrel gun available, which I found very nice to shoot +with. I also managed to shoot some of the common deer of the Pampas +(Cervus Gampestris) with my rifle, the flesh of which is not very +appetising, but the skins were easy to dry and soften, and were not only +useful as a covering for my "recado," or native saddle, but also served +well as rugs for the floor of the sitting-room. The natives mostly chase +the deer on horseback with dogs. There is a very curious peculiarity +attaching to the young of this species of deer when not more than three +or four days old, when the perfection of its instincts at that tender +age seems very wonderful in a ruminant. When the doe with fawn is +approached by a horseman, even when accompanied by dogs, she stands +perfectly motionless, gazing fixedly at the enemy, with her fawn at her +side. Then suddenly, as if at a preconcerted signal, the fawn rushes +away from her at its utmost speed and, going to a distance of perhaps +six hundred yards, conceals itself in a hollow on the ground, or among +the long grass; lying down very close, with head stretched out +horizontally, and will thus remain until sought by the dam. When very +young it will allow itself to be taken, making no further effort to +escape. After the fawn has run away the doe still maintains her +statuesque attitude, as if to await the onset. Then, but only when the +dogs are close upon her, she too rushes away; but invariably in a +direction as nearly opposite to the fawn as possible. At first she runs +slowly, with a limping gait, and frequently pausing as if to entice her +enemy on, just like a partridge, duck, or plover when driven from its +young. But as the dogs begin to press her more closely her speed +increases, becoming greater the further she succeeds in leading them +from the starting point. Truly a marvellous combination of both instinct +and sagacity, and also of maternal love. + +Winter was now come, and we had a spell of cold and stormy weather, with +a fair amount of rain. I was out in the camp and round the puestos +pretty constantly, to see that the flocks were all right, and that there +had been no trouble from soldiers. One afternoon I called at La +Concordia to see Don Frederico, as I thought it advisable to have three +of the flocks passed through the sheepyards, to part out sheep which did +not belong to them, and have their feet attended to. This was necessary +from time to time, as during bad and stormy weather a certain amount of +mixing was apt to occur, however careful the puestero might be. It was +obviously more difficult to prevent where the land over which one of +the flocks was accustomed to feed lay in the same direction on the +estancia, and not very far distant from the land occupied by another. +Don Frederico told me he was making arrangements to send Mrs. Dampier +and the children on a visit to England, and that he was already in +communication with the shipping company about taking their passage. His +idea was that they should go into Monte Video about a week before the +steamer left, and that he would drive them himself in his own carriage +with horses and a couple of servants, while their luggage could be sent +in a cart to San Josè, and on from there by diligence to Monte Video. +The visit to England had been thought of some little time, but, as, +owing to the war, things seemed to be getting more and more unsettled, +he thought it better not to delay longer than was necessary. He spoke to +me about two or three matters needing attention, and said that Jennings +would remain at La Concordia during his absence, and would help me in +any way should anything of consequence happen, or an unforeseen +difficulty arise. When I got back, I found old Robinson in a very +unsatisfactory state; he had evidently got hold of some Caña, but how I +could not imagine, as I always kept it securely locked up. He talked a +lot of nonsense about being tired of life at the Cerro, and of his +determination, although he knew he was an old man, to go off somewhere +or other, he did not care where, with a view to bettering himself. I +concluded this phase would be a passing one, and by next morning he +would be himself again. However, when it came, he was both dull and +disagreeable, and although he had always been subject to occasional fits +of the kind, I felt that his present state of mental irritation and +unrest really proceeded from something more than his having drunk a +little more than was good for him. I enquired of the Indians if anyone +had been to see him. Margarito had seen no one, but Justiniano said he +had been looking up the "tamberos," and as he was riding back he saw +someone in the distance come out of the door of the kitchen, mount a +horse, and ride off towards the Pichinango; and he thought by the way he +rode he looked like a "gringo," the native term for a foreigner. +However, next day Robinson seemed better, and the little household +disturbance for the moment at any rate passed over. At the end of the +week seven Blanco soldiers rode up and asked for food and horses. They +had evidently come a good distance, and were en route for Colonia. They +had four tired horses, which they left with us, taking the two horses +previously left by soldiers, and two of ours as well. However, they were +quite civil, and one of them told me we might expect to have a good many +more coming our way before long. "Carnival" and the rosillo happened +both to be tied up in the courtyard, nor did they trouble the least +about them. Old Juan, the Indian, mostly kept himself out of sight when +soldiers arrived. I suppose he had a sort of idea they might take him +off, as they probably would have done had he been younger. I noticed he +was always very talkative, and apparently in extra good spirits when +they had gone. After about a week the bad weather cleared up, and it set +in fine and dry. I went down to La Concordia the afternoon before Don +Frederico and the family were to leave for Monte Video. Everything was +now ready; the luggage had been sent on two days previously, and they +were to make an early start the following morning, which happened to be +a Wednesday. It turned out a lovely day for the time of the year, +continual sunshine, with a cool breeze, perfect for travelling. On +Saturday I had our usual para rodeo of the cattle, and they came up +well. Early on Monday morning I started on "Carnival" to ride down to +the far end of the Swiss Colony, whence the land stretched away to the +Estuary de la Plata, which divided the republic of Uruguay from that of +Argentina. I called at La Concordia on my way, and had a talk with +Jennings about the business I had on hand. My object was to see a man, +Emile Gunther by name, who was a buyer of hides and sheepskins. We had a +large number of these at the Cerro, and I was anxious to be rid of them, +as they were apt to get damp and out of condition during the winter. I +crossed the Pass of the Rosario below La Concordia, into the Colony, +following the track which led out of it, gradually rising to higher +ground. Every here and there "chacras," or farms, each surrounded by +more or less cultivated land. Many of the houses were built of bricks, +plastered and whitewashed outside, one storey only, with bright red +tiles on the roof, and they usually had a wide open verandah, very +convenient to sit in, and also to eat one's meals during warm weather. +Each house seemed to have its garden, where vegetables did well, for the +soil was good and easy to work, and it was rare to find one without a +few flowers, while clumps of "eucalypti," the blue gum of Australia, +planted either round or near the homesteads, were almost universal. The +stables and outbuildings were mostly mud-huts, with roofs of "paja," a +reed which was quite common, and very suitable for the purpose. All this +was that part of the Colony which could be seen in the distance from La +Concordia, where the original Colonists had first settled themselves +down and made their homes. As I rode on, I came to a much wider track, +with wire fencing stretched on wooden posts on either side, running at +right angles to the one I had hitherto followed. Turning to the left, I +rode along this in a south-westerly direction, and as I proceeded the +farms got fewer, and further apart, while the land intervening was +thickly covered by a shrub, with a small leaf, the knobby roots of +which, when dried, made excellent firewood. Here cattle and horses could +be seen feeding, for the soil was rich and fertile, and where the shrub, +or "chirca," as it was called, was not too thick, good grasses grew in +between. I had no difficulty in finding Señor Gunther's farm, which was +quite an important one, for, in addition to land under cultivation, +where wheat and maize were grown, there were two large "portreros," or +paddocks, fenced in with wire, affording ample pasturage to a +considerable number of stock. Trees of various kinds had been planted, +including fruit trees, and were growing well. There was a little +"monte," or wood of "eucalypti," and some were also planted on either +side of the drive leading up to the house, forming quite a respectable +avenue. The house was an "azotea," one storey high, with a flat roof, +the rooms spacious and comfortable, overlooking on their further side a +garden, with fruit trees and flowers. As I rode up, I was welcomed by +the owner's wife and daughter, who told me he had only gone down the +farm for half an hour, and would soon return. Meanwhile, they invited me +to come in and sit down, shewing me where to tie up my horse. Señor +Gunther, when he came, was a fine-looking man, above middle height, well +set up, apparently about fifty. He looked shrewd and intelligent, with a +pair of keen blue eyes and light hair, already beginning to turn a +little grey. "Buen dia Señor" (Good morning, Sir) he exclaimed genially, +as he came up to shake hands. "I have heard of you." "I, too, am equally +pleased," I replied in Spanish. "What a nice situation you have, and how +well the trees must have grown!" "Yes, indeed they have," he said, +"considering the time we have been here." He said he had a number of +milk cows, and had already made a fair amount of Swiss cheese, which +sold well, and he had reason to think it would prove profitable, and +hoped to increase it. He told me to unsaddle and turn out my horse into +a small paddock close by, and invited me to stay and have some +breakfast, which would be ready in half an hour. "After this," he said, +"if you have sufficient time to spare, I would like to show you round +the farm." Our meal was enjoyable, and he pressed me to drink some +excellent muscatel wine of a rich golden colour, which he had himself +purchased, and brought out from Monte Video. Coffee and cigarettes +followed, and he had evidently become able to surround himself with an +amount of comfort by no means easily attainable on some of the estancias +outside. Of course, we discussed the war, and I then spoke to him as to +the business about which I had come. Finally, it was arranged that he +should purchase all the hides and sheepskins at the Cerro at the price I +asked for them, and he was to send a cart and fetch them away in about a +week. He told me they were fortunately situate in regard to soldiers, +being out of their track, and that scarcely any seemed to come their +way, nor did he think they were likely to unless anything unforeseen +occurred. After a turn round the garden, he went and had a look at +"Carnival," whom he seemed to admire. I told him I had brought him from +the Sierras de Mal Abrigo, where he was bred and born, and that I was +greatly afraid lest the soldiers should take him at the Cerro, as we +heard so many were coming our way it seemed hardly possible he could +escape. He then said if I cared to leave "Carnival" with him I was +welcome to do so, and he would do his best to look after him, at any +rate until the worst of the trouble we were looking forward to should +pass over. I gladly accepted this offer, with very grateful thanks. My +host suggested I should saddle him up now, when taking our turn round to +farm, and then just have a look at the Piedmontese Colony, which was +not far distant. He further proposed that on our return I could leave +"Carnival," now he was here with him, and he would lend me a horse to +ride home on, which could be brought back when he sent a cart for the +hides, etc. I gladly agreed to this arrangement, and we made a start +forthwith. A peon was ploughing on the arable land, using a somewhat +heavy plough, drawn by a yoke of oxen. It was a slow business, but had +the advantage of turning up the soil fairly deep. The milk cows and a +small flock of sheep were feeding together in one large paddock, while +some nice-looking young stock and the horses were feeding in the other; +besides these was a small flock of fifteen goats, the milk of which I +concluded was used in the manufacture of cheese. Near the house was the +usual corral to shut up animals, and attached to the outbuildings which +were roomy and convenient was a well-arranged dairy. + +We were not long in reaching the Piedmontese Colony, which at that time +consisted only of one pulperia, or general store, and half a dozen +houses, more or less near it. From there the land which stretched away +towards the river Plate was mostly covered with "chirca," and evidently +at that time but sparsely occupied. You could just see the smoke rising +from the chimneys of perhaps a dozen mud ranchos, a considerable +distance apart, evidently in possession of people only recently settled +there, who as yet had not had time to do much in the way of agriculture. +However, I was glad to have a chance of seeing the country, and I +wondered as we rode back what kind of future might possibly lie before +it. Returning to the house we had some coffee and little cakes served +with it. Meanwhile, a chestnut was ready tied up, on which I was to ride +home; not very attractive-looking, but good enough for the purpose. +Indeed, in time of war I had learned that a good-looking horse was a +certain care and an uncertain pleasure. So I bid good-bye to Señor Emile +and his family, with many thanks for their kindness and hospitality, and +the request that should he at any time find himself in the neighbourhood +of the Cerro, he would not fail to call and see me. The chestnut +travelled along quite comfortably, if not very fast, and the sun was +nearly down when I reached home. The first thing Justiniano told me was +that Robinson had departed. Two men from the stonemason's, who lived on +the other side of the Pichinango, had come for him with a led horse, +about the middle of the morning, and old Robinson had put together a few +clothes and belongings and had accompanied them. The craving for drink +had probably been his motive, for the stonemason himself was given that +way, and at his house Caña was generally more or less on the go. Old +Robinson had always kept up a sort of friendship with these people, much +against my wish, for I prophesied they would one day be the ruin of him. +However, the fact I had to face was that I was now without a cook, but +Juan got me some coffee, and supper ready on the fire in the galpon, +which I myself carried into the dining room, and then I smoked a pipe +and thought over my pleasant day. Later I locked all up and went early +to bed. Next morning, when I went out, "Napoleon" greeted me joyfully. I +had left him at home the day before. The Indians got me some hot coffee +at their fire, and after seeing to some things that were necessary, I +saddled up the "mala-kara," or bay, with white blaze and stockings, and +started off to La Concordia to consult with Jennings as to what I had +better do in regard to Robinson's departure. I found him already busy in +the garden pruning the fruit trees, and told him what I had arranged +with Señor Gunther, and how I was now left without a cook. He said he +thought the best thing was to leave Robinson where he was; it was no +good attempting to fetch him back, as he would by this time probably be +drunk and incapable, or, to say the least of it, very difficult to +manage. He proposed to send me a nice-looking young Swiss, called +Vicente, who was looking after the "capones," up to the Cerro, to take +Robinson's place, and also keep an eye on the southdowns, and I could +send Margarito down to La Concordia in his stead. Vicente was handy, and +obliging, getting on for nineteen, nor would he at all object to doing a +little cooking and housework if required. Jennings asked me to stay and +have breakfast, which I did, and said he had received a letter from Don +Frederico, written from Santa Lucia, saying all had gone well, and that +so far they had travelled comfortably. We saw Vicente before I left; he +had just come in from his flock. He said he would be pleased to go up to +the Cerro, and would do his best to make things comfortable, and +promised to be there a little before sundown. I then bid adieu to +Jennings, and rode round by Anjel's puesto. He was out with his flock, +and I came across him without having to go so far as his house. He was +silent and serious as usual, but gave it as his opinion that Robinson +"would come to no good with those people over there," and promised, +should he hear of anything further happening, he would manage to let me +know. When I got home, we got the "tamberos" up on to their rodeo. No +one had arrived during my absence, and I sent Margarito down to La +Concordia as arranged. + +Early in the following week, one morning just after ten o'clock, Colonel +Medina rode up to the Cerro, accompanied by seventy Blanco soldiers. I +had met him before, and Don Frederico knew him well, for he lived not so +very far from the Pichinango, and we had always looked upon him more or +less as a neighbour. I at once invited him to dismount and come inside +and have breakfast, assuring him it would not be long before it was +ready. As for the soldiers, I said they had better make a fire down +below the house, towards the big "manga," and if one was not enough, +they could make two. Meanwhile, I would have a couple of sheep killed, +so that they could make themselves a roast, as they wanted, and I would +send them down a supply of farinha, salt and yerba, in order that they +might do what a native always dearly loves, viz., have a rest and suck +Matè. + +The colonel was a man of middle height, his hair beginning to turn a +little grey. I daresay he would be getting on towards fifty. He was +well-educated, and had to a certain extent travelled, having held a +minor office in the Blanco Government previous to the Flores war, when +the Reds came into power. Probably, too, he looked forward before very +long to taking office again, when the present revolution should be over, +and the success of his own party assured. He told me he was on his way +to Colonia, where a division of the Blanco army would probably be +concentrated, to hold the province before very long, but that the main +advance contemplated, whenever the proper time should come, was to lay +siege to the city of Monte Video itself, and he believed it would be +quite powerful enough to accomplish this when a really suitable +opportunity should arise. This was certainly good news so far as it +went, but at the same time he warned me that the war was as yet far from +being over, for the Colorados were still fairly strong on the inside +camps, especially in the direction of the capital, where they were able +to command the assistance of both infantry and artillery and also, if +necessary, that of mercenary troops as well. I was greatly interested; +indeed, I felt quite sorry when breakfast was over, and the colonel said +it was time to make a move. Neither he nor his soldiers asked for +horses, having a troop of spare ones in first-rate condition, which they +were driving along with them. We parted with mutual compliments, and +with the usual "Hasta la vista amigo!" (Friend, until we meet again!), +and he further told me that if he could do anything for me during the +changes and chances of war-time, I was to be sure to let him know, +which, to say the least of it, was very civil of him. The soldiers +quickly marshalled up near the door leading out of the courtyard, +through which he passed, and I accompanied him. He then mounted a grey +horse, which was being held ready for him, and gave the word of command +to go forward, and we all watched them jogging along towards the Pass of +the Pichinango, when that little excitement was over. It came on to rain +early in the afternoon, and we got the sheepskins turned over, and put +together again, ready for the purchaser when he should think well to +send for them. + +Early next morning the sun shone bright, and warm, but it did not last +long, for a "pampero," or southerly wind, from the Pampas, blew up soon +after mid-day, and towards evening it became very cold and +stormy-looking. I was able to "repuntar," or turn inwards, the cattle on +the northern boundary of the estancia, and also to visit three of the +puestos, where I found everything all right. The following day a bad +spell of weather set in, with cold winds and constant showers of rain. +However, I kept on the move as well as I could, for it was in stormy +weather that a little supervision was most needed. Vicente was an +obliging young man, and did his best in his new occupation, and he made +me a nice little fire in the gun-room stove, where it was comfortable to +sit after supper, especially after having had a bit of a wetting +outside. Jennings had given me two little bull terrier puppies. They +were an amusing little pair about five months old, small in size, with +all the characteristics of a bulldog, except that they were very quick +and active on their legs. One I called "Bully"; he was the colour of +yellow sand, and the other was a brindle, like its mother, and to him I +gave the name of "Brag." As they grew up they hunted the "legatos," a +very large lizard, who lived among the rocks, behind the house. They +also went with me when I took a gun and went after a brace or two of +partridge, and they joined joyfully in the general uproar and barking +when any stranger rode up, or indeed near the house. This was so much to +the good, as it lessened the chance of our being taken unawares as to +what might be coming, always a distinct advantage in time of war. The +rosillo had now quite recovered and greatly improved in condition, and I +often had him tied up in the courtyard, where I gave him a little maize, +which he had learned to eat with satisfaction. I was now able to ride +him with my recado, as well as my English saddle, and I made up my mind +to take all the care I could of him, for the more I rode him the better +I liked him. After about a week the weather became fine, and I decided +to ride in to the little country town of Colla, which lay some nine +miles south of the river Pichinango, as I wanted to go to the "policia," +or police station about some business connected with the estancia. I had +intended to put off going until Don Frederico's return, as I rather +wished to see him before doing so. However, as I understood from +Jennings it was more than likely he would not be able to come home so +soon as he expected, I decided to delay no longer, but to start early +the next morning. I did not want to take a good-looking horse, for I +knew the town would be full of soldiers, so I told Justiniano to have +the horses in the corral in good time, and to catch me up rather an +oldish bay, left by soldiers, nothing whatever to look at, but really a +good deal better horse than he appeared, and also to tie up the rosillo +in the courtyard, about eleven o'clock, so that he might be safer if +anyone came. The little town of Colla lay pleasantly situate on the bank +of a small river. It consisted of one main street, with houses unevenly +built, and somewhat scattered on either side. About half way down this +widened a little, forming a small plaza, or square, where a band played +on summer evenings, and people walked round and round, or sat about and +listened to the music, and enjoyed also the pleasure of looking at their +neighbours. There was a Roman Catholic Church, and some rather +sordid-looking barracks, and quarters for soldiers. Half a dozen +pulperias, and general stores, and two or three "fondes," or second-rate +hotels, with here and there a private residence, often enclosed inside a +garden, completed the buildings of any importance, while stretching away +behind these, on either side were the smaller houses and ranchos, +occupied by natives, more or less of the working class. Some of these +had spaces of cultivated ground attached, and at others two or three +cows and a horse or two, and some poultry would be kept, just as +happened to be most convenient. There were plenty of soldiers about in +the streets, as well as in the cafés and fondas. I rode straight up to +the police station, and it was not very long before I was able to +conclude my business. Having done this, I did not go to an hotel, as I +should otherwise have done, to put up my horse and have some breakfast, +on account of the soldiers, but I made my way to the house of a man +called Pedro Dominguez. It was next to a large general store, which he +owned as well, where he carried on an extensive and profitable business, +as a buyer of produce and a seller of merchandise, and had long had +dealings with the Estancia Pichinango. He received me with courtesy. A +man below the middle height, getting on in years, and somewhat bent in +figure, he looked to me as much like a Portuguese as anything else. +"Buen dia, Señor," he said, as I rode up and explained who I was. +"Please come inside, and I can put up your horse in my stable." +Moreover, he invited me to have some breakfast, which was very good of +him, for I began to feel hungry after my ride. His house was +comfortable, and he had a good sized garden attached, very well kept, +and he told me he was a great lover of flowers. While we were enjoying +our meal one of the black, hairless dogs, greatly esteemed by natives, +trotted into the room. It was about the size of a small terrier, with a +perfectly smooth black skin, entirely devoid of hair. It had a pointed +nose and a pair of very bright eyes, and they are said to be very +affectionate. Señor Dominguez told me he had a widowed daughter and a +grandchild who lived with him, but just then they were away on a visit +to friends in Colonia. Of course, we talked about the war. He said he +had never taken any part in politics, but his sympathies were with the +Blancos, and he was very glad to think that for the present Colla at any +rate, had seen the last of the Colorados, who he believed as a +Government were self-seeking and corrupt, and he felt sure if they were +allowed to continue in power, would bring certain ruin on the country. +We had some coffee and a cigar, and it was after two o'clock when I +saddled up the bay, and with many thanks for his kind hospitality, +started on my return journey. The old horse travelled back faster than +he had come, and I reached the Cerro somewhat earlier than I expected. +As the sun declined, it got quite cold, and I was glad to find a fire +lit in the gun-room stove to welcome me. Justiniano had got up the +"tamberos" on to their rodeo, and the southdowns were already shut up in +their yard, as I rode up to the house. "Napoleon" was delighted to see +me, and even "Brag" and "Bully" gave me a sort of welcome in their way. +I let go my horse, and wrote up the log-book, and so ended what had been +quite an agreeable day. I had the usual "para rodeo" on Saturday, which +was quite satisfactory, and I saw reason to think we were now getting +the cattle well in hand. This was important during time of revolution, +when we were likely to have fewer people to look after them. On the next +Tuesday morning, I had just got in from a turn round the puestos, when +the cart arrived to take away the hides and sheepskins. The Indians gave +the cartman some breakfast in the galpon, and we then counted and handed +over the hides and skins, for which the cartman gave me a receipt, while +I handed to him a certificate that we had sold them. He started for home +about one o'clock, taking with him the chestnut horse, which Señor +Gunther had lent me to ride home on. The cartman told me that "Carnival" +was all right, and seemed quite happy in his new quarters. The middle of +the following week Don Frederico returned to La Concordia. I rode down +to see him, and he said he could hardly believe he had been away nearly +a month. The fact was his family did not leave for England in the +steamer he intended, but waited for the next one, and he naturally +wished to see them safe, and as comfortable as might be on board. I told +him about old Robinson, and he said the arrangement we had made would do +quite well for the present, though later on he should want Vicente back +at La Concordia. Meanwhile, however, I could look about and see if I +could find a cook. The winter was now passing, and every now and again +we had two or three days when the sun would be quite warm, with every +sign of approaching spring. We saw but few soldiers, and they were only +passers-by, anxious to reach the end of their journey as soon as might +be, but we had every reason to believe a considerable movement of troops +would take place before very long. Early in August we had begun to see +symptoms of what is known as epidemia, or sickness among the cattle. At +first a single animal would be found in the camp dead, looking in good +condition, and from no apparent cause. Later two or three might be seen, +and in different parts of the estancia. Then you would find here and +there an animal looking young and even fat, standing by itself, away +from the others, not moving or eating, and with obviously something the +matter with it. If taken in time and got to move quickly, and the +horseman could give it a sharp run, it would probably recover. Should +it, however, have gone too far, all one could do was to kill it, and +take off its hide, rather than let it lie down on the ground and die +slowly by inches. The epidemic went on for some little time, and we lost +a good many cattle, and curiously enough it was much more towards the +Cerro end of the estancia than it was at La Concordia. During this time, +I was constantly out in the camp, looking up sick animals, and I took +Juan and Justiniano with me, to take off the hides when necessary. +Towards the end of the month I was out with the latter having a look +round, and we came across a cow evidently very bad, for it could hardly +stand on its legs and, when I tried to move it, it seemed only to totter +from side to side. I jumped off my horse, handing the reins to the +Indian, and caught hold of its tail with both hands to pull it over. I +pulled my hardest, when the hair came suddenly out of the tail, and +before I could recover myself I fell sideway into a bunch of big +thistles which stood near. Unfortunately, I fell right among them, and +felt one of the stiff sharp thorns pierce the flesh on the inside of my +left arm, just below the elbow. I turned up my sleeve and tried to get +it out with my knife but was unable to do so. We killed the poor cow, +and I left Justiniano to commence taking off the hide while I rode back +to the Cerro and sent his uncle Juan to help him. I then had another try +to get out the thorn, but could not manage it. I bathed it with hot +water, and as it was getting a bit painful, applied a hot poultice and +hoped for the best. September came in fine, and towards noon the sun +began to feel quite warm. At the beginning of its second week, +twenty-two soldiers rode up, and said they wanted horses. I saw they +meant business, so I told Justiniano to get all our horses into the +corral. I had the rosillo saddled in the courtyard, so he was all right, +as it was unusual for soldiers to take a horse one had saddled, except +for some special reason, or because they really wished to be as +disagreeable as they could. They were travelling out north, and were +evidently pressed for time. They took six of our horses, including the +"manchado," which had caused the death of the poor young Englishman, and +left us one, an old bay, and he looked a very poor one. However, there +was no alternative, so we had to put up with it, but it gave me a +reminder of what we had to expect. The two colts we had tamed, now +well-behaved horses, they paid no attention to whatever, and for this I +was glad. My arm had become swollen and inflamed, and continued to give +me a good deal of pain, and I was obliged to have it in a sling. It was +rather a nuisance, for it was my bridle hand, but I consoled myself by +thinking had it been my right arm it would have been worse, and as it +was I could get about as usual. One fine morning, about eleven o'clock, +an old negro woman rode up to the Cerro mounted on a rather thin +"gatiado," or drab-coloured horse, with a dark stripe down its back, +from which is derived its name. She had a maiden with her, black, like +herself, mounted on an old grey. Each had a rug thrown over her horse, +made fast with a surcingle, on which she sat, and appeared quite +comfortable. The old lady asked me if they could stay for a while, and +have a rest before proceeding on their journey. "By all means," I +replied, and told Juan, who happened to be about, to give them a couple +of bancos, or stools by the fire in the galpon, and I also asked them if +they would like anything to eat. "Pero con mucho gusto, Señor," "But +with great pleasure, Sir," they replied, "and if you could kindly give +us a little yerba and sugar we should greatly enjoy drinking Matè, for +we both feel very thirsty." Juan soon made up a good fire, and put on +the kettle for hot water, and gave them a piece of meat to roast, and +some "farinha," and the ladies seemed quite happy. Later on, as I was +passing out through the galpon, the old one came up to thank me for the +hospitality we had shewn them. "But pardon, Señor," she said, "may I ask +what is the matter with your arm, for I see you have it bound up. I +myself am a 'curandera,' or healer, and I am on my way to see a man who +is very ill. Please let me have a look at it." This I gladly did, and +she told me it was the thorn still in it which was causing the trouble, +but she hoped it might work its way out. She said I must take care of +it, as my arm looked to her rather as if it had been poisoned. She +further said I was to send one of the Indians down to the wood which +bordered the bank of the river Pichinango, and he was to get the leaves +of a certain shrub which grew there. I was to make these leaves into a +poultice and put it on my arm as hot as I could bear it every night for +about a fortnight. Further, I was to put the water in which the leaves +were boiled into a jug and drink it cold each morning as soon as I +awoke. She interviewed both Juan and Justiniano and made them clearly +understand what was the shrub the leaves of which were to be brought: +what it was like, and how and where it grew. She then explained to +Vicente exactly how to make the poultice, and how much of the leaves to +use at a time. Then came the curious part of the would-be cure. The old +lady insisted that I should begin it on the first evening of the new +moon, and at no other time but then. We were all somewhat impressed, the +Indians very much so, for they looked up the "curandera" with a certain +amount of superstitious awe. However, I determined to try the "remedio," +and as there happened to be a new moon that evening I sent Justiniano at +once off to the Pichinango to find the leaves. He returned with a good +supply of them. It was a small leaf, a little larger than the ordinary +tea leaf, and it reminded me very much of the leaf of a small tree known +as the "manouka" tree, of New Zealand. So the poultice was duly made; +the water in which the leaves were boiled was put ready to drink the +first thing next morning, and forthwith the prescribed treatment began. +A few days passed, when one morning, between seven and eight o'clock +fifteen soldiers rode up and demanded horses. The tropillas had not long +been turned out of the corral, so our horses were quite close for the +soldiers to see. There was nothing for it but to shut them in and let +them take what they wanted. I did the best I could, but they took four +and left one, an old gatiado, with a stripe down its back, the same +colour as the one the curandera had ridden. The soldiers only stayed +long enough to get horses, and then resumed their journey, travelling +north. The weather was now getting warm, when one afternoon about four +o'clock, an elderly negro rode up to the Cerro, mounted on a very +poor-looking old "bayo," or cream-coloured horse. The Indians, who had +been out in the camp, were sitting by the galpon fire, sucking Matè. I +was in the courtyard unsaddling the rosillo, whom I had been riding, +but not far away. I heard a great barking of dogs, "Napoleon's" voice +being loud among them; "Brag" and "Bully" were also doing their best to +increase the noise. I passed out through the small door, and there was +an old man, surrounded by the barking dogs, sitting quietly on his +horse, calling out "Ave Maria," the customary form of salutation, and +waiting for someone to ask him to dismount. This I did, and he enquired +if here was the Cerro del Pichinango, and if I would allow him to put up +in the galpon for the night. As for his horse, he said it was worth very +little, and if let go he did not think it would move far away. He looked +tired, and weary, as did his steed, and said what most he needed was a +real good sleep. He had a bundle with him, tied up in a roll at the back +of his old "recado," a battered black felt hat and a much-dilapidated +summer poncho, while some old "bombachos" and a pair of alpargatas, or +canvas shoes, completed his attire. I told him to make himself +comfortable, and left him to rest as I was just thinking of saddling up +the bay colt we had tamed, and riding down to Marmasola's puesto. I +found his flock quite near it, ready to be shut in for the night. He +himself was at home, and he told me that a soldier who had passed by not +long before had told him there had been an engagement some distance out +beyond Guaycoru, and that the Blancos had been victorious, and had +driven the Reds off in full flight to the north of the Sierras de Mal +Abrigo, and so on towards the province of San Josè. How far this was +really true, and whether it was an affair of much importance he did not +know. He thought, however we should all do well to be on the alert, and +promised to send me up word should he hear any further news. Everything +seemed quiet as I rode back: the epidemia among the cattle was now dying +out, and there was only an isolated case now and then, and I was +thankful to think we had been able to get through the trouble so easily. + +My arm by this time had become less inflamed, and much less painful, so +I thought it better to go on with the treatment for a few days longer +than the "curandera" had suggested. When I saw the negro again next +morning he told me he had slept well, and felt all the better for it. He +told me he had passed through a rough time with General Lopez Jordan up +in Paraguay during the war between that country and Brazil. Having +drifted down into Uruguay, he found himself with hardly any money, and +no friends. Had it not been time of revolution, he did not doubt but +that he could easily have got work. He said his nerves had been +completely shattered, and what he wanted was a feeling of security and a +little rest. He asked me if I would allow him to stay on a bit at the +Cerro, as he liked the look of the place, for you had a good view all +round, and could see anyone who might be coming. He said if I would +permit him to stay he would be glad to do anything he could to make +himself useful. I thereupon asked him if he would act as cook. "Pero con +mucho gusto," "But with great pleasure," he replied. When I next saw Don +Frederico he said I had better arrange with the negro, whose name was +Correo, to do the cooking, and such housework as had to be done. Vicente +could then come back to him, as he needed him rather badly. He also told +me I had better take a little boy about twelve years old, a grandson of +the old Indian, Feliciano, to help to look after the southdowns, and to +look up horses, as otherwise I should find myself short-handed. He was a +funny little person, with a pair of sharp-looking black eyes. His father +was said to have been killed in a quarrel during the war, and although, +of course, a relative of Justiniano, he had every appearance of mixed +blood. Correo seemed very pleased at the prospect of staying on at the +Cerro, and settled down quite comfortably. He kept the rooms clean and +tidy, and could cook anything that was required. For the next ten days +or so we had sheep-working on hand, and I was kept pretty busy; and we +had the regular para rodeo of the cattle on Saturday as usual, which was +now quite easy to manage. + +A few days later, I started to ride over to an estancia belonging to a +Mr. Trafford, which lay beyond the town of Colla, well on towards +Colonia. My object was to see some rams we needed for the Fine Flock, +and which Don Frederico had heard were for sale there. I rode a dark +chestnut horse, which had been left tired and almost done up by +soldiers, but had now recovered. I preferred taking him to a horse of +our own mark, as I thought it quite possible I might have to pass +through the Blanco lines. Should this be so and they took the chestnut +they would probably give me another in exchange which would do to bring +me home. I was up early and in the saddle just after sunrise. It was a +nice morning, and the chestnut was in good spirits, and went along +smoothly and easily. When I reached Colla I found the place full of +troops, so did not delay, but rode straight on and beyond, being asked +as I passed the Police Station who I was, and where I was going. No one +interfered with me. I stayed that night and over the next day with Mr. +Trafford, who was very kind and hospitable. He had no one with him when +I arrived, for his daughter, not yet grown up, was away at school in +Buenos Aires. His house was comfortable, well-built, and well-arranged, +with a very wide verandah on one side of it. He saw me ride up, and came +forward to welcome me, a thin, tall man, with a somewhat serious +expression, which made him look older than he really was. He kept up the +English custom of having tea in the afternoon about four o'clock, with +bread and butter, cakes, jam, etc., which to me were quite a luxury. +After partaking of this, I had a look over the rams, which were then in +a large paddock not far from the house. They were a nice lot, well cared +for, and in good condition, and on hearing the price I came to the +conclusion they would be just about what Don Frederico required. So I +arranged provisionally to buy twenty of them, and to pick out the ones +we would have in the morning; this arrangement being subject to Don +Frederico's approval. I further proposed he should write to Mr. Trafford +immediately after my return, and so complete the purchase, and then we +could send over to fetch them, as might seem convenient. The following +day I much enjoyed as we rode over the estancia, and inspected both the +sheep and cattle, for, as a matter of fact, Mr. Trafford had, for that +time, some exceptionally good stock. He took great interest in his +garden, which appeared well-stocked with both flowers and vegetables, +and his numerous fruit trees were evidently a source of great pleasure +to him. Next morning, after coffee, I saddled up the chestnut and +started for home. On my way back I passed close to a place where a +Spaniard, who was really a "basco," was driving a good sized flock of +sheep up towards his house. A nice-looking sheep-dog, which looked well +bred, was helping him very efficiently. I pulled up for a while to give +my horse a rest, and I took a great fancy to the dog, for I liked the +way he went about his work. We were getting a bit short-handed, and I +thought a dog like this one would be useful, so I made his owner a bid +for him, just in case he might care to part with him. Rather to my +surprise, the man said he would not mind selling him, but only because +he contemplated leaving where he was to go and live in a town, where the +dog would be no use to him. The only condition he made was that I would +be kind to him and treat him well. He was black and light tan in colour, +and the true sheep-dog breed, with a nice head and intelligent eyes. The +only fault I could see in him was he had rather too heavy a coat for +work in hot weather. His name was Ramonou. He did not at all like being +taken away from his home by a stranger, and I was obliged to lead him +with a thin thong of hide, fastened to his collar, which I held in my +hand. Fortunately the chestnut was very quiet and tractable, but having +the dog with me naturally delayed my progress, so that it was late when +I reached home. However, there was a moon which shone brightly, so it +did not much matter. "Napoleon," as usual, was glad to see me back. +Nothing had happened during my absence, and Correo soon got me some +supper, and seemed quite contented and happy. Next morning "Ramonou" +seemed none the worse for his journey. I had tied him up for the night +and given him some food, and I now let him loose in the courtyard, just +to stretch his legs. "Napoleon" was not at all quarrelsome, and the two +dogs happily took to each other, and soon became great friends. I had +the bay horse caught up, and started down to La Concordia, as I wished +to lose no time in letting Don Frederico know what I had arranged about +the rams. He was perfectly satisfied, and said he would at once write to +Mr. Trafford. He told me he had heard that old Robinson was lying very +ill over at the stonemason's, from the effect of too much Caña, and he +went so far as to say he was doubtful if he would recover. "You know we +should not like him to die over there," he said; "after being so many +years at the Cerro, we had come to look upon him as almost part of the +place!" "Supposing I send Steff, the Swiss peon, with a light cart to +be at Anjel's puesto, say at eleven o'clock to-morrow morning. You might +then send Juan and Justiniano to meet him there at that time, and they +could all three go on together to the other side of the Pichinango. If +there is plenty of 'paja' in the cart and he is well wrapped up, I do +not see why he should not travel all right." So it was arranged; and I +promised to see that the Indians were at the place appointed at the hour +named. As a matter of fact, they both rather liked old Robinson, and +would be sorry for him being so ill, and I felt sure they would do their +best to bring him back with as little suffering as possible. I then rode +back to the Cerro, round by Anjel's puesto. + +When the cart arrived at the Cerro with the poor old man lying full +length in it, I saw at once that he was very ill. We got him out of the +cart and into the kitchen, where we laid him down in front of the fire +and started rubbing his hands and feet, for he really seemed in all but +a comatose condition. After a while he somewhat recovered, and I got him +to swallow two or three spoonfuls of mutton broth made strong and quite +plain. Towards evening he seemed better, and said he wished us to get +him up into his bedroom above the kitchen. He could not speak above a +whisper, but I understood him to say he felt cold, and would rather be +in his own room above the kitchen stove than in one of the larger rooms +on the ground floor. For two or three days he seemed to mend, and then +one afternoon he sank into an unconscious state, and I knew it would not +be long before all was over. He could take nothing whatever, but he +lasted through the night, and passed peacefully away about eleven +o'clock next morning. I sent down at once to tell Don Frederico, and he +sent me word he would have a shell coffin sent up as soon as possible. +During the afternoon we got the remains down from the bedroom and laid +them on a "quatre," or wooden camp bedstead, in the last room but one at +the far end of the house, which had a door in it, opening into the +courtyard, covering the body over with a white sheet. Late in the +evening the wooden shell arrived, and we reverently laid him in it. I +put a couple of screws in half way down, just to hold on the lid for the +time being. The Indians said they would light a candle and watch by the +coffin, and Correo said he would like to take a turn also. It was a fine +clear night, calm and still, with the moon now in its second quarter, +and about nine o'clock I went to bed. I was awakened some three hours +later by a loud knocking at my door. I jumped up, hastily putting on +some clothes, and took up my revolver, which was lying by my bedside. +When I opened my door, leading into the covered archway, there was +Correo, his face an ashy grey colour, gesticulating violently outside, +and begging me to come at once to the room where we had placed the +coffin. He said the Indians who had been on guard were terribly +frightened, because while they were on watch the ghost of the "finado," +or dead man, had appeared, and was then to be seen passing like a shadow +up and down the room. As I went out into the courtyard "Napoleon" came +and put his cold nose in my hand, and the rosillo who was shut in there +for the night, gave a little neigh. I went to the door, opened it, and +entered the room, followed by the negro, who was almost in tears. Of +course, there was nothing, and I showed him the two screws half way down +in the lid, exactly as we had left them. Meanwhile the Indians had fled +and hid themselves in the galpon; the candle they had left lighted was +flickering down in its socket, and the room was in semi-darkness. I with +difficulty persuaded Correo to go to his bed and have a sleep, for he +was much upset, and trembling all over, but at last I succeeded. I +thereupon locked the door of the room, taking the key with me, and +returned to my bed for the rest of the night, which passed without +further disturbance of any kind. The next morning, but one, Steff drove +up in his cart with the coffin, into which we silently placed the +remains, and he started at once to convey it to the cemetery in the +Swiss Colony. At the same time I rode down to La Concordia to advise Don +Frederico that it was on its way to its last resting place. When I got +there I unsaddled my horse and tied him up under the euremada before +going inside the house. A little later I was sitting in the dining room +talking to Jennings, when Don Frederico came hurriedly in. "Good +gracious!" he said, "there is Steff crossing the rincon towards the Pass +of the Rosario standing up in the cart and trotting ever so fast. Do go +down and stop him, and tell him only to go at a foot pace." A "moro +rosillo" (blue roan horse) was standing ready saddled outside. I jumped +up on him and went down the high bank behind the house somewhat faster +than he liked. He started bucking as he got nearly to the bottom, and +what with being taken unprepared and only having my right hand on the +reins, I narrowly escaped what might have been a nasty fall; but I was +able to stop the cart before it crossed the pass. I returned to the +house, and shortly afterwards Don Frederico started to go to the +cemetery in the Swiss Colony, in order to attend the funeral, while I +rode up to the Cerro, as some sheep-working was going on there I wanted +to see after. Ramonou came and helped, and soon proved himself useful in +getting the sheep through the yards. We were now in the first week of +October, and as work of this kind would be pretty constant throughout +the month it seemed as if he had arrived on the scene just about the +right time. One morning I was busy superintending this work; the weather +was becoming hot, and progress somewhat slow. Before going to breakfast, +I went to my room to wash my hands; my arm had now got much better, the +inflammation and swelling having gone. I had turned up my shirt sleeve, +and was rubbing the soap gently between my hands, when a thistle thorn +half an inch long suddenly popped out of my arm, somewhat in the same +way as a cork flies out of a bottle, and fell into the soapy water. By +its appearance it should have been a larger thorn, so that part must +have broken off when it entered the arm. Anyway, I was only too glad to +be rid of it, for it might easily have caused me more trouble than it +had done, and I felt thankful to the "curandera" for the advice she had +given me. The thorns of the big thistle are very sharp and strong, so +much so that when riding through them I have known a thorn pierce right +through a long leather riding boot. + +The spring had so far been a dry one, and we were looking forward to +soon beginning the shearing, partly because the season was an early one, +and also on account of the difficulty of getting shearers. Soldiers were +everywhere more or less on the move, and on an estancia this is always a +hindrance to work of every kind. Saturday came round again with its +"para rodeo" of the cattle, and on Monday morning, between ten and +eleven o'clock, thirty soldiers arrived asking for food and horses. They +were travelling north to join the main army. I had a sheep killed for +them, as they said they were hungry, and gave them some farinha and +yerba, and I ordered our horses to be got up into the corral; it was, in +fact, the only thing to do. They ended by taking thirteen horses, six of +our own mark, including the brown colt we had tamed, and seven which had +been left with us by soldiers, among them the chestnut I had ridden +over to Mr. Trafford's estancia. They left us five, apparently tired +out, and weary, and all in poor condition. + +I had the rosillo saddled; indeed, I now had him up very constantly, +letting him out to feed at night. Our own horses were gradually +disappearing, and I saw it would not be long before we ran short of +them. We were now busy getting ready for shearing, and I had to go round +to all the native neighbours and find out how many and when they would +be likely to come. This year, owing to the scarcity of outside people, +it seemed probable that more of our own people would have to shear than +usual. Meanwhile, Don Frederico was doing all he could in the Swiss +Colony, although as a rule the colonists were not great shearers, for at +that particular time their own farms often needed attention. I had the +stone walls of the sheepyards attended to, and saw to the gates, and +also that the doors and belongings of the galpon were all in proper +order. I also had an ample supply of wood brought up from the Monte, the +necessary provisions had to be got ready as well as numerous other +articles, all of which were sure to be wanted at such a busy time. On +November 1st a small gang of nine shearers arrived. They had been +previously engaged, and commenced work on the following day. Meantime, +Jennings duly turned up at the Cerro to take charge inside the galpon, +while I looked after matters outside, and also helped him in my spare +time. It was not long before we found out how useful Ramonou could make +himself. He helped to get the sheep through the yards, and also to hurry +a flock from one of the puestos, which otherwise would have come too +slowly, and so kept the shearers waiting for sheep. The weather favoured +us--for the month proved warm and exceptionally dry, so work got on +faster than it could otherwise have done. Soldiers called up half a +dozen at a time, but no large number came to trouble us, for which we +were very thankful. Pedrito now kept an eye on the southdowns, and also +got up the horses, for both old Juan and Justiniano took a turn at +shearing, although neither of them were very efficient. + +Work progressed as the days passed, and time went on, so that by the end +of the first week in December, we made a finish, and the gang of +shearers having received their money, at length took their departure. No +sooner was shearing over than we had to see about marking the calves. +This should have been done earlier, but perhaps owing to the same causes +which had produced the epidemia the cattle this spring had been in +rather poor condition, and the calves generally both younger and weaker +than usual. The third week in December began on a Wednesday, and Don +Frederico fixed that day for the marking. I went round to let our native +neighbours know, and asked them all to come and help. Fortunately, the +morning was fine, and we were all on the move at the Cerro even earlier +than usual. I rode a black horse with a white star and two white hind +feet. Pedrito was quite proud of himself, mounted on a small bay which +had been left tired by soldiers, but had now recovered. He was a good +rider, inherited no doubt from his Indian ancestry, and he never pulled +his horse's mouth about more than was necessary. As it happened, +although we were fewer horsemen than usual, the cattle came up well, and +we left them to go round and round on the rodeo while Don Frederico and +Jennings came up to the Cerro to have some coffee which Correo had ready +for us. I let go the black horse and saddled up the rosillo, and on +returning to the rodeo was pleased to find that several of our native +neighbours had arrived. With the aid of a point of tame cattle to lead +them, we got the herd shut up in the manga, and I felt relieved to +think that my responsibility was now over. Two large fires were lit, and +the brands heated, and then two of our native neighbours rode in among +the cattle to lasso and bring out the calves. And so the work +progressed, until about eleven o'clock a halt was made for breakfast. +Seeing we depended so much upon the help of our native neighbours, Don +Frederico said we had better regale them with what was known as "Carne +con cuiro," or beef roasted in the hide. So a young cow had been killed +and cut up in a much shorter time than the uninitiated would deem +possible, and two big roasts with the hide on them were already cooking +before the fires. This above everything is a delicacy the South American +native dearly loves, and Pedrito's face was a picture when he learnt +what was going to happen. Caña, farinha, salt, and yerba were served +out, and the company were all enjoying their repast when a horseman +appeared approaching, perhaps two hundred and fifty yards away. As he +got nearer I saw he was riding a colt, known as a "redamon," _i.e._, +only about half tamed, with a piece of hide tied round its lower jaw, +instead of a bit, and as he rode on towards us the animal, a beautiful +"rosillo," answering the slightest touch of the rider's hand on the +rein, he was indeed a sight to see. His long black hair well oiled and +curling beneath a worn and battered old felt hat, fell almost down to +his shoulders. Over a shirt anything but clean was a dilapidated old +summer "poncho," with a rag of a white handkerchief tied loosely round +his neck. An old worn coloured "cheripa," over a pair of cotton drawers, +covered his waist and the upper part of his legs, and below were a pair +of potro boots, made of the skin of a wild mare, from which the hair had +been removed; mounted with a pair of large iron spurs, completed his +footgear. As he rode among the crowd, he raised his hat above his head +with a "Buen dia Señores" (Good-day, gentlemen) as he sat on his horse +like a statue waiting to be invited to dismount. Then came a cry from +the assembled company, "Cypriano caramba! Cypriano!" but the tribute was +certainly not to his wealth, nor indeed, to his character, for he was a +well-known horse stealer, as well as a famous "domador," or horse-tamer, +but rather a spontaneous and unpremeditated recognition of his wonderful +horsemanship. This touched the hearts of the "Gauchos" as nothing else +could have done. In spite of his rags and his dirt and his poverty, he +was to them a true aristocrat, rising for the moment head and shoulders +above his fellows; for such, indeed, at that time, was the way and +custom and manner of the "Pampas." + +Breakfast being finished, work was resumed. By three o'clock the marking +was over, and the herd of cattle let go, when, owing to the times +through which we were living, the company at once dispersed. The weather +continued hot and dry right into the New Year, when I found the water in +the alhibi, or reservoir in the courtyard was becoming exhausted. As I +have previously stated, all our water came from collecting the rainfall +on the roof, whence it passed through pipes into the "alhibi." Usually +the supply was sufficient, but probably the water had been used in +excess and wasted during the shearing, and as no rain had fallen now for +some weeks, it was easy to account for the shortage I wished to preserve +what there was for the house, and indoor use; so we caught up an old +petiso called Waddle, and Justiniano mounted him and made fast his lasso +to the forked branch of a tree with a barrel fixed on its top, and +started for the Cañada Grande to fetch water. He did not go very fast, +for Waddle had seen much of life, and had an enlarged knee; but he had +done the job before, and he did not mind. I daresay, too, he knew by +experience it was not likely to last very long. So with the daily barrel +brought up each morning, we managed to get along quite comfortably. As +to the stock, they always had plenty of water, with the river Rosario on +one side and the river Pichinango on the other, not to speak of the +Cañada Grande, which was hardly ever dry; nor, indeed, had they to go +any distance to drink. Of course the "seca" had its effect on the +pasture, and the grass everywhere got very dry. Where, however, the camp +was not overstocked, and there was good water, the animals could pass +through time of drought without coming to any harm. One morning Pedrito, +who had been out on an old horse looking after the southdowns, came back +and said he had seen an ostrich nest with several eggs in it, which he +thought were still quite good; so I sent Juan with him to fetch them. +There were seven, and they turned out to be but recently laid. The +female bird will lay her eggs out in the open, choosing a place where +the grass is long and dry, and well exposed to the sun. The yolk is +somewhat rich, both in taste and colour; but when fried in a frying pan +or made into an omelette is excellent eating. One of his other pastimes +was going after partridges also on horseback, holding a long stick in +his hand, at the end of which was fastened a thin running noose. When he +saw a bird lying in the grass, which they were fond of doing during hot +and dry weather, he would ride round and round in a circle, gradually +getting nearer and nearer, until he could drop the noose over the head +of the bird as it lay still, as it often would do for some time. Correo +could cook both the ostrich eggs and partridge very well, and I found +them a pleasant change after a prolonged course of mutton roast and +boiled. During hot weather he often wore a beautiful suit of white +cotton; he had two of these with him, and when he brought in my meal to +the dining room he would occasionally stand behind my chair, in a solemn +manner while I was eating, which certainly looked imposing, for his +black skin shone like ebony, but was at the same time quite unnecessary. +He did not much like talking about his experiences during the war in +Paraguay, which I always realised had given him a pretty severe shock, +for he told me he had passed through villages where not a single man had +been left alive, and where a stranger entering them would find himself +surrounded by only women and children, all of whom were in a state of +semi-starvation, and of abject terror and misery. All the crops and +animals had been destroyed by the troops as they passed, and there was +nothing suitable in the way of food anywhere within reach. I liked the +old man, whom I always found very willing and obliging, and I was glad +to see his health improve, as it certainly did, doubtless owing to the +rest, and quiet, and to freedom for the time being from any care or +anxiety as to where or how he could get a living. + +The New Year came in exceptionally hot; day after day brought continual +sunshine from a blue sky, in which scarcely a cloud could be seen. +Towards mid-day the rays of heat poured down so fiercely, they seemed as +if they would scorch the very tussock grass itself. The rocks behind the +house fairly glistened and shimmered in the noon-tide glare, and the +large lizards were very happy, constantly running in and out of their +holes, and indeed had a glorious time. Out in the camp, the ground +itself got warm, and everything dried up. The cattle could be seen here +and there in groups; by this formation they seemed to think they might +escape the burning rays of the sun, and it was in the night and early +morning, as well as late afternoon, that they were able to feed in +comfort. They went gladly enough to the rivers to drink, but they could +not stay long by the woods on account of the number of flies which were +ever ready to pester and torment them, until they hardly knew how to +bear. The sheep, also, could be seen clumping themselves together, each +trying, as it were, to get shade by standing in each other's shadow. + +If the pasturage on the estancia was hard and dry, there was yet plenty +of it, and as there was abundant water I had no fear of anything like +starvation for the stock. During the great heat the "siesta" in the +middle of the day had to be longer than usual, and practically all work +was suspended, except during the early morning and late afternoon. The +rooms, however, were very comfortable during hot weather, for being so +high, and opening one into another, there was always plenty of air, even +when the heavily-barred windows were, according to the Spanish custom, +kept shut during the middle of the day in order to keep out the heat. We +had no garden to suffer, and were thankful for the grateful shade of the +"ombu," and also of the figtrees in the courtyard, so that, except for +the want of water, we had little to complain of during the period of the +"seca." Curiously enough, during the great heat we had no thunderstorm, +the atmosphere remaining perfectly clear and dry. This, however, was +quite unusual. + +One morning, not long after sunrise, two Blanco officers, and about +eighty soldiers rode up to the Cerro. They said they were en route for +Colonia, and had been travelling the greater part of the night, taking +advantage of a nearly full moon. I invited the two officers into the +house to have some coffee, but before accepting, they said what they +wanted were horses, for many of those they had with them were tired, and +it was important they should get on with as little delay as possible. I +asked if the soldiers wanted food, but all they were allowed to do was +to make a couple of fires and suck some Matè, before proceeding on their +journey. As to the horses, there was nothing for it but to get all our +horses up into the corral--they had not long been let go--and let the +soldiers take what they wanted. There were now but few of our own mark +to choose from; the others being horses previously left with us. +However, they took seventeen and left us twelve tired ones, poor in +condition, and not one of them looking as if he was much account. As it +happened, the bay colt we had tamed was with his mother and the +wall-eyed horse I often rode, and old Waddle some distance further away. +So these did not come up with the others, thus the bay colt once more +escaped attention. I had the rosillo tied up and saddled, and Pedrito +was riding the little "mala kara," so he got off, but a very light bay +horse, called an "andador," or pacer, which Justiniano was fond of +riding, was one of the first chosen by the soldiers. The officers told +me they were going to join a large division of the Blanco army, now in +the province of Colonia, which was thought likely to be moving in our +direction, and it was supposed General Aparicio himself was coming down +shortly just to see how things were going. The officers were quite +civil, but when they were gone, and I had time to think matters over, I +realised that this hardly compensated for the fact that we had now +hardly any horses of our own mark left to us. Such, indeed, was so often +the fortune of those whose business it was in "the old days" to try and +carry on an estancia during time of revolution. + +On January the twentieth, we had three or four very short and slight +showers, and on the day following, heavy rain fell and continued without +intermission for twenty-four hours. The "seca" had now broken up, the +"alhibi" was more than half full, and we had no further trouble in +regard to water. Soon after two o'clock on the last afternoon in the +month, a party of soldiers rode up, and one of them, who appeared to be +their leader, told me I was to go with them to where a division of the +Blanco army was encamped, some two and a half leagues to the south-east +of the Cerro. As they seemed to attach importance to the request, I did +not care to quite refuse or indeed argue the point as to whether I +should go or not. Moreover, I thought it would be an experience, and +possibly somewhat of an adventure. As it happened, I had caught up the +rosillo a short time before, intending to take a turn round the camp. I +told them I would be ready in a quarter of an hour, saddled him up, +strapped the belt of my revolver round my waist, slipped a light summer +poncho over my head, and we made a start forthwith. Meanwhile, the +Indians had hid themselves in the galpon, and I bid adieu to Correo, who +looked greatly perturbed when he saw me depart. We travelled rapidly +along, for something over an hour, and then, as I looked ahead, I saw an +interesting scene spread out before me. In a large "rincon," at the back +of which was a stream, lightly bordered by trees, were quite a large +number of soldiers. Horses were either feeding loose or tethered +everywhere. The men were scattered about in every sort of attitude and +position, mostly resting and smoking, and some enjoying a game of cards, +while others were chatting and talking together, and apparently enjoying +themselves. Meanwhile, fires had been lighted in front of which large +joints of meat were already roasting. A little to the right, half a +dozen "Gauchos" were busy giving some colts they had got hold of a +gallop, which, from their appearance, had only been recently caught up. +Behind all these, on slightly rising ground, a group of officers were +gathered. One of these was seated on some rugs and saddle gear, which +had been piled up for the purpose, and he was at the time occupied in +sucking Matè through a silver "bombilla," or tube. He was a remarkable +looking man, somewhat above middle height, with rather broad shoulders, +over which his long hair hung down in a slight curl at the back, swarthy +in complexion, with a very keen-looking pair of black eyes. I realised +at once that I was in the presence of no less a personage than General +Aparicio himself. Meanwhile, he invited me to dismount, and asked me who +I was, and where I had come from, and what had brought me there. When I +told him, he said, "This ought not to have happened! There must have +been some mistake!" Then he continued, "Siente sé Señor," "Sit down, +Sir." "Vamos à tomar un matecito," "Let us drink a little Matè." In the +meantime, a soldier was holding my horse, and behind where we were +sitting, two lances were stuck in the ground, from which the white +banner was flying. The General's sharp eyes caught my horse. "That +little rosillo seems made of some good stuff," he said. "You had better +take good care of him." I told him he had the mark of the Estancia +Pichinango, and was about the only one we had left. "Pero que quiere mi +amigo? Es tiempo de guerra." ("But what could you wish, my friend? It is +time of war,") he replied, with a laugh. The General then told me that a +good many matreros (deserters from the army) and bad characters, were +said to be hiding in the woods our way, and that he would send a couple +of soldiers with me when I went back, who could also stay at the Cerro +for a time, in case I should find myself in any trouble. Thereupon I +thanked him, and about half an hour later made my adieux. As I left the +camp the two soldiers rode in front of me, each carrying his lance, +with the white banner flying, while I followed immediately behind. Upon +reaching the Cerro, which we did just after sundown, I got quite a +reception from Correo and the Indians, in which "Napoleon" and +"Ramonou," also "Brag" and "Bully," took part, in fact, they all +appeared quite relieved, and very pleased to see me back again. On the +next morning, I rode down to La Concordia to see Don Frederico. He was +greatly amused when I told him of my little expedition, and at once +asked me if I thought the Blancos were likely to be coming our way. I +told him I thought not, as from what I had gathered their intention was +to make straight for Colonia across country, as it were, without +touching the town of Colla, in which case they would not be likely to +come near the Pichinango. He further said the two soldiers who had come +back with me would be a help rather than a hindrance, for he had been +wondering how we could manage to get the horses all gathered up into the +"manga" this year, and the foals marked, seeing there was hardly any +outside person available. He said that now I had the two soldiers, who +doubtless understood camp work, at disposal, he would arrange a day to +gather up the horses, with as little delay as possible, and let me know. +I could then inform our native neighbours, and possibly succeed in +getting a certain amount of help. I rode back by Marmasola's puesto, and +told him if he knew of anyone likely to be of any use, to be sure and +let me know. That same evening, a little before sundown, a young +Englishman, Mr. Frank Turnor, arrived, with three horses and a peon. He +was "Major Domo" on a large English estancia up the country, and he +asked if we could put him up for the night. This I was delighted to do, +and we had the horses collared and sent out to feed. He was a +fine-looking young man, with broad shoulders, and a tall, upright +figure. We were sitting smoking after dinner, when the conversation +turned upon "matreros," men wanted by the police, hiding in the woods, +whereupon he told me the following story. He said where he was living +they had large woods bordering the river, in which "matreros" would come +and stay for a time, living on the estancia cattle, and then move off +again to other secure places, where the police could not catch them. +They were a desperate lot, and murdered one of the shepherds of the +place because he mended up the fence after they had cut the wires, so as +to pass backwards and forwards, which was a cause of annoyance to them. +He said it was his business, together with two men, to search the woods +every Saturday to see if they were there, as they always left some trace +or other, such as the remains of food or tracks of horses. Both he and +his men always carried rifles, but he was never very keen about finding +the thieves, as they were known to be very dangerous characters. A new +Chief of Police had come, whose ambition was to catch these men. Knowing +the outlaws were in the woods, he thereupon notified him, and the police +officer appeared early one Sunday morning with ten men, all fully armed, +when he at once went with him to show more or less where the matreros +were to be found. On the way they met a half Indian man called the Negro +Largo, who in peace time was allowed three sheep a week to keep him from +stealing, and in time of revolution forty dollars a month to save the +horses; as the Indian then had some thirty men under his command. He +went on to say that as he and the Negro Largo knew the woods, they were +asked to go quietly ahead, so as to try and find the encampment, the +police following. + +At last some horses were seen tied out near some little "talditos," or +coverings made of branches, but all was quiet; it was very hot, and the +thieves were sleeping. He and the Negro Largo then returned to the +police, without disturbing the sleepers. Turnor wanted the "comisario" +to charge right up on horseback, but being an infantry officer, he +preferred to do so on foot. So after approaching a little nearer he +ordered his men to dismount and form line, and himself heading them with +drawn sword, charged up to the place where the horses were tied. Owing, +however, to the noise caused by dismounting, etc., the outlaws, hearing +what was going on, made a bolt into the thick wood, so that only the +horses, saddles, etc., were captured. He further mentioned that he and +the Negro Largo were not in the charge, but behind a tree watching. + +The police officer was intensely proud of his achievement, and at once +ordered one of the best looking horses to be saddled up for him. When he +mounted, however, the horse reared, and coming over backwards, gave him +a bad fall, much to the general amusement. + +Turnor said that this was his only encounter with the "matreros," but +that some time after two of the men with rifles who were revising the +woods as usual came right upon the outlaws over a bank, with their +horses saddled. Instead of trying to escape they at once mounted and +attacked them, firing their pistols, when they on their part being taken +by surprise, made a bolt of it, and being better mounted succeeded in +getting safely away. Eventually all the outlaws were captured and put in +prison. + +It was getting late when we turned in, but as Turnor wished to make an +early start on the morrow, I had already told Correo to get some coffee +the first thing. Fortunately, he was always an early riser. The morning +was fine, and the sun had but lately risen, when my visitor and his man +mounted their horses and started on their way, the latter leading the +spare horse, so that either could change to it as they went along. + +During the afternoon Margarito arrived with a note to say that we were +to have a "para rodeo" of the cattle on Saturday as usual, and a general +gathering up of the horses on the Wednesday following. I therefore lost +no time in advising our native neighbours, and getting them to come and +help us. To make this doubly sure I rode next morning to pay a visit to +two or three of the principal ones in person. Both the soldiers +accompanied me with their lances, and the Blanco device on their hats +and the white banner flying. When I arrived at the first native house I +saw at once that I was about to make an impression. I thought the dogs +barked if anything louder than usual as we sat on our horses calling out +"Ave Maria," the usual form of salutation. For the moment no one +appeared, but I saw signs of first one and then another woman or child +peeping out through a window and so on. Then the front door was opened, +and the master of the house appeared bare-headed, and with a bow +desiring me to dismount. Whereupon I did so, and went into the house, +the two soldiers meanwhile holding my horse outside. I delivered my +message, and we discussed the war, and I was invited to have some +refreshment, which I declined. When I thought sufficient time had +elapsed I got up to leave, being accompanied outside by apparently the +whole family. I then walked solemnly to my horse, mounted and signed to +the two soldiers to move on, and altogether I flattered myself that I +made a very dignified departure. The same mode of procedure took place +at two other houses, each with the same satisfactory result. The fact +was, we were getting very short of horses in our neighbourhood, and as +hardly any of these people, friendly as they might appear on the +surface, would have at all objected to coming inside our camp and +picking up and carrying off any stray horse which, having been left +there, would otherwise have proved useful to us, I thought it a good +opportunity to let them know that, up at the Cerro I was in a position +of some authority, and therefore not to be trifled with. On the Saturday +the two soldiers went with us to the "para rodeo" of the cattle; +"Napoleon" enjoyed himself greatly, and all went well. + +Wednesday morning was fine, and we were all early on the move. I rode +the rosillo, who was in excellent form, while the two soldiers and the +Indians were mounted on horses which had been left by passing soldiers. +As we got the troop up towards the "rodeo" a portion of them tried their +utmost to break back, but the rosillo was quite equal to the occasion; +he was indeed a good little horse, and his speed and energy soon +succeeded in rounding them up and forcing them to rejoin the others, so +that we managed to get them all shut up in the stone "manga" with less +difficulty than I had expected. Our native neighbours duly turned up, +fires were lighted, and we were able to mark quite a fair number of +foals. We also picked out about a dozen stray riding horses from among +the troop, which had probably been left by soldiers as they passed +along. These we divided between the Cerro and La Concordia, attaching +them to the tropillas, in order that so long as they remained to us they +might be made useful, and earn their living for the time being. Don +Frederico was mounted on his rosillo allazan (chestnut roan), otherwise +known as his war-horse; but Jennings no longer rode his usual dark grey, +for it had been taken by soldiers about a month previously, so he was +compelled to bestride a rather ancient-looking bay horse, which was also +in but poor condition, instead. + +At the beginning of March the two soldiers were recalled to Colla. When +they bid us adieu they both thanked me for the pleasant time at the +Cerro, and when they departed took with them our good wishes. Towards +the end of the month, Charles Bent turned up quite unexpectedly. His +relatives outside had been unfortunate, and had lost a lot of stock, +both sheep and cattle, during the war, and his idea was to make his way +to Monte Video later on, for he seemed to have a hope that the war would +soon be over. He had lost his race-horse not very long after the +disastrous affair at the Cerro, now getting on for a year and a half +ago, and he rode up on an old "Bayo Negro," or dark cream, with a black +mane and tail, which had been left by soldiers, and seemed to be of very +little account. I was glad to see him again, for I always liked him. +Moreover, he did not look very well; he was never really strong, so I +asked him to stay on a bit at the Cerro, as we had ample room, and I +knew he would be glad to help in any work which had to be done. With the +exception of the rosillo, we were entirely dependent upon what I might +call outside horses, for we had now scarcely one of our own mark left. +The bay colt old Juan had tamed, was still with us, but he had managed +to sprain his shoulder rather badly, so was for the time being of no +use. + +We had a room at the Cerro with a strong brick floor, which had at one +time been used for stores, and I had this arranged for the rosillo, so +that in case of necessity he could be shut up there at night. Generally, +when the weather was fine, I could have him tied up in the courtyard, +but when the nights got cold and he was unable to feed there, I knew it +would be difficult to keep him in good condition. As it turned out, I +found that the shelter from wind and rain, together with a small but +regular allowance of maize, greatly contributed to his welfare. When I +next saw Don Frederico I spoke to him about Charles Bent, and he said +he should be very glad for him to stay on at the Cerro for he knew he +would always willingly lend a hand at any work which might be going. He +said he thought he would be much better there than if he were to go into +Monte Video at present, as it was generally believed by those who knew, +that before very long the Blancos intended to try and besiege the city, +and if they should do so would probably succeed. During the next three +weeks we had a good deal of sheep-working on hand, as the flocks from +the puestos were being passed through the sheepyards, both at the Cerro +and at La Concordia. Ramonou was really a great help; he was obedient +and good at his work, and gave satisfaction all round. Bent had left his +sheep dog, "Bob," with his relations. He told me it was some time since +he had heard of Royd, but he believed he had sustained many losses with +his stock at his friend's place near San Josè, and that he either had +sailed or was about to sail for England. At this I was not surprised, +for he never seemed to me well suited to camp life. He was naturally +somewhat despondent, and there was no denying he had been very hard hit +at the Sierras de Mal Abrigo. + +Correo seemed now to have recovered his health and spirits, and to enjoy +preparing our simple menu. He was always willing and attentive; indeed, +since his arrival at the Cerro, everything inside the house had gone on +quite comfortably. + +Some three weeks passed and nothing happened except the ordinary routine +of estancia work. During this time either Bent or I had been accustomed +to go up on to the flat (azotea) roof once or twice daily with the +glass, so as to have a good look round. The Cerro stood high, so that +from its roof we could overlook the greater part of the estancia. This +was a distinct advantage in times like the present, for it not only let +us know anything that might be going on among the stock, but also +allowed us time to prepare beforehand for any soldiers who might ride up +to the house with the intention of causing us trouble. One afternoon +Bent and I were up on the "azotea" together, having a look round with +the glass. It was just about two-thirty when suddenly we saw some twenty +soldiers coming our way from the East, at an angle which would make them +pass to the front of the Cerro, about half a mile distant. We could, +moreover, see they were Colorados, for the red banner was clearly flying +from their lances. At the same time a troop of Blancos appeared, coming +up from the Pass of the Pichinango, so that the two parties came into +collision just about the place where Tio Benigno's deserted puesto still +stood. We could see it all perfectly. They galloped furiously one toward +the other two or three times, but seemed always to manage to avoid close +contact. They fired their guns and revolvers, some of the shots at any +rate being hurriedly let off into the air. Then the Reds made a bolt, +and thereupon the Blancos, seeing this, galloped furiously after them, +with their lances. One of the Reds was wounded by a shot, for we saw his +arm hang useless by his side as he rode away. Another got a lance wound +in his back, which was apparently more serious, as he fell from his +horse after the Reds got a little further away, and had to be picked up +by his comrades. So the Blancos remained masters of the situation, and +after the Colorados had disappeared, they passed the Cerro at a gallop, +about a quarter of a mile distant, following a northerly direction, as +if they were making for Guaycoru, and we were all very glad to see both +lots clear out. Some ten days later we were both up on the "azotea," +about an hour before sundown. After taking a look round, I said to Bent, +"Do you see that point of cattle feeding almost at the same place where +the Blancos and Colorados met? And can you see a dark lump on the +ground, a little way removed, just on the far side of them? If I am not +mistaken that is a matrero, out 'bombiando.' You know what that means, +'looking for and marking down a young heifer, so that he and his +companions can come and kill it at night,' and there will be a moon +to-night up to twelve o'clock, you know!" "I believe you are right," +replied Bent. "Have a look through the glass. I fancy you will find that +animal standing alone a little further away to be a horse saddled, and +he is probably hobbled as well." Taking the telescope, I soon saw this +to be the case. "I will give that fellow a bit of a fright," I said, at +once going down into the courtyard, where I had the rosillo ready +saddled. It took but a moment to lead him out through the small door, +jump on his back, and gallop off. I had not got more than half way, when +the matrero, who must have seen me coming, ran to his horse, mounted, +and made off towards the woods of the Pichinango as quickly as he could. +The rosillo was going strong, and I should certainly have overtaken him, +when an unfortunate thing happened. The ground was very rough and +uneven, with numerous pieces of pointed rock rising up above it in every +direction. The horse unluckily caught his off fore foot on one of these, +and as he was going fast, it tripped him up, and he came down a regular +cropper, rolling right over. I, of course, came down with him, having my +revolver tightly held in my right hand, fully loaded, the trigger at +half cock. When I fell it somehow got jammed between me and the hard +ground, with the end of the barrel against my chest, slightly bruising +the flesh. Fortunately, it did not explode! It was a Colt's muzzle +loader, and I felt grateful to them for its reliability and their +excellent workmanship. I remounted, and continued the chase, but the +delay gave the man too much of a lead, and I only arrived in time to see +him enter the woods and disappear. Bent seemed quite glad to see me +return without any further mishap, and when I explained to him how I +came to have the tumble, which he had been able to see with the +telescope from the house, he remarked, "That revolver of yours is indeed +worth more than anything it may have cost, old man!" This pleased me, +for as a matter of fact, I had bought it second-hand, when I was at the +Sierras de Mal Abrigo, upon its eminent firm of maker's reputation, +knowing otherwise but little about it. Bent and I then got up the +"tamberos" to their rodeo. They were now well in hand, and went up +easily. As we returned, Justiniano was bringing up the southdowns, to +shut them in for the night; I looked them over, and saw them safely +inside their yard. Correo was always pretty punctual with supper when we +were at home, for he was glad when work was over and he could retire to +rest. Afterwards we had a quiet talk and a smoke, and both went early to +bed. + +A week later we were both on the "azotea" about four o'clock in the +afternoon. A Mr. Fenton, who had formerly stayed a good deal at the +Cerro, had left his "moro," or blue-grey horse behind him when he went +away, attached to one of the tropillas. The horse was not there when I +came, having detached himself, and joined up with the "saino manada," or +troop of mares and foals. We had not been looking round long when I +noticed a horse coming at pretty nearly full speed in the direction of +the Cerro, with two soldiers in full pursuit. "I believe it is Fenton's +'moro,'" I said to Bent, "and what is more those two fellows are going +to have him." Just then the "moro" passed, some three hundred yards +distant, in front of the house. One soldier flung his "boleadores," but +as it happened they fell short. The second thereupon immediately +increased his speed, and flung his with such accuracy that they twisted +themselves round the "moro's" hind legs, and soon brought him to a +standstill. The soldiers then slipped a halter over his head, loosed the +"boleadores" from his hind legs, and led him off with them, riding in +the direction of the Pichinango Pass. + +The "boleadores," or "bolas," as they are often called, are a very +effective weapon in the hands of a skilled horseman who is well mounted. +They are chiefly used to capture horses and wild mares in the open camp, +and are a very important part of a "Gaucho's" equipment. They are made +of twisted strands of raw horse-hide. There are three thongs united +together at a common centre, each about a yard in length. At the other +end of each thong is a leaden ball, covered with hide. The horseman +holds one ball in his right hand while he swings the two others quickly +round his head. He then lets go the ball he had in his hand, so that the +three go whirling swiftly forward in a circle, and their weight and +impetus causes the thongs to twist themselves round the hind legs of any +horse at which they may be aimed, which, chiefly owing to the speed at +which it is moving, soon finds itself with its hind legs tied up +together, and so falls helpless to the ground. + +Much smaller balls fastened together in the same manner, with quite thin +thongs, are used by the natives to capture the wild ostrich. + +Indeed, I have always been given to understand that the "boleadores" +were in use among the Indians of the Pampas from quite remote times. A +few days passed, and nothing happened, and then one morning just after +ten o'clock a Blanco officer and between seventy and eighty soldiers +arrived, who asked for food and horses. Accordingly I had two sheep +killed, and gave them what else they required, and told them to make a +couple of fires outside, over which to roast their meat and boil their +kettles. As to horses, I told them we had none left, only a few more or +less useless ones, which had been left by soldiers. As, however, they +said they had four tired ones which could go no further, I sent Pedrito +to bring up what we had into the corral, so that they could suit +themselves, for under the circumstances it was the only thing to do. +Finally, they took five and left their broken-down ones in their place. +So we were not much worse off after all. The rosillo I had saddled, and +regarding him they gave me no trouble whatever, so I really had cause to +be thankful, for I particularly did not wish to lose him. We invited the +officer to come in and have breakfast. He was a good-looking man, not +more than thirty years of age. He told us they had come from the north, +and were going to join their division near Colonia. He said the main +White army was now very strong indeed, and it was their intention before +long to push right through the province of San Josè, where they expected +to easily drive the Colorados before them, and then to besiege Monte +Video, thus stopping all supplies coming in from the interior. Should +they succeed in carrying out their intention, which he fully believed +they would do, we might have reason to hope the war would soon be over. +In due course, the soldiers having refreshed themselves, took their +departure, proceeding at a "trotte-cito," or jog-trot, towards the Pass +of the Pichinango, the officer riding in solitary grandeur behind. One +afternoon in the middle of the week following, Bent and I were up on the +azotea taking a look round. We had not been there long when we saw +something which looked like a man on horseback going slowly, leaning +forward in the saddle, with his arms resting upon the horse's neck. He +seemed to sit more or less helpless, and the horse, which was +three-quarters of a mile distant, appeared to be making his own way, +having come from the East, behind the Cerro, towards the road which led +from it to La Concordia. I sent Justiniano, who had a horse saddled, to +see if anything was amiss, and if so, told him to bring the horse and +rider back with him. This he did, and the latter turned out to be a +Swiss, weak and faint from loss of blood. We got him off his horse, and +carried him into the galpon, where we laid him on a "quatre," or light +wooden bedstead, and I then managed to pour a little Caña and water down +his throat, for, as we lifted him from his horse, he had suddenly +fainted. After a few moments he came round, and told us he was coming in +from outside with a considerable sum of money on him. Suddenly three men +appeared, whom he took to be "matreros," or deserters, for they had no +device on their hats, although all were armed. They compelled him to +hand over all the money, his poncho, spurs, and silver-handled whip, +even to a large gold ring which he wore on the fourth finger of his +right hand. They threatened to cut his throat if he made any resistance, +and as it was he had a deep wound from a stab with a knife, just about +the middle of the forearm, inside and below the elbow of the bridle +hand. This had evidently bled profusely, and was even then bleeding, and +it was clear the poor man had lost a good deal of blood. He thought the +wound must have been made when one of them was taking the ring from his +finger. However, Bent and I managed to improvise a small tourniquet, and +so get pressure to bear, which easily controlled the bleeding. We then +bound up the arm with a cold water bandage, and made the man as +comfortable as we could. Correo made him some "bouillon," and when he +had taken this he soon sank off into a doze. About an hour and a half +later he woke up, feeling better, whereupon we readjusted the bandage +and enquired his name and address, and where his home was situate in the +Swiss Colony. I told him to make himself as comfortable as he could +during the night, and early in the morning I would send a messenger to +advise his friends what had happened, so that they could bring a light +cart to fetch him, for he was too weak to ride. I told Justiniano to tie +up a horse and start as soon after daylight as he could, taking at the +same time a note I wrote to Don Frederico, telling him what had +happened. This Justiniano could leave at La Concordia as he passed, +without really going out of his way. Meanwhile, old Juan said he would +keep an eye on the man during the early part of the night, and advise me +if anything went wrong. Bent and I then turned in, feeling pretty sure +that if the Swiss could get some sleep he would probably be better in +the morning. Fortunately, this turned out to be the case, although the +patient was still very weak. About ten o'clock a friend and a relation +arrived in a light covered cart, with a straw mattress and suitable +coverings. We carried the Swiss, and placed him carefully in the cart, +it was evident he had received altogether a great shock. I gave his +relative a written statement of what we saw; how we had found him; and +what we had done, so that if necessary it could be shewn to the police, +and I said I was prepared and willing to answer any further enquiries. +They soon made a start, and this little excitement was over. May was now +well advanced, and sheep-working among the flocks, which had been pretty +constant, was drawing to its close. One morning, towards the end of the +month, Bent and I rode down early to La Concordia, where the fine flock +was to be passed through the yards. The work made good progress, so that +we were both back again at the Cerro a little before twelve o'clock. +When I saw Correo he told me a Swiss baker had called during our +absence, on his way outside with bread, and that he had bought three +loaves from him. We were glad of this, as being a pleasant change from +the "galleta," or hard camp biscuit. According to our usual custom, we +were both again up on the "azotea" about four o'clock in the afternoon. + +Everything seemed quiet, but we had not been there long before our +attention was arrested by what looked like a covered cart slowly +crossing the camp, about a mile and a half away, in the direction of the +Cañada Grande, opposite to Laborde's puesto. Every now and again it +seemed to stop, and the two horses, which we could see were drawing it, +appeared to be grazing. Altogether, it gave us the impression that +either there was no driver in the cart, or that if one was there, he was +either drunk or incapable. I then decided to send Justiniano to see what +was the matter. He had the bay colt his uncle had tamed saddled, whose +shoulder was even yet not quite sound. I told him if he found anything +wrong to make his lasso fast to the horses, and so bring them cart and +all, up to the Cerro. By this time, from Correo's description, we had +identified the cart as belonging to the Swiss baker, who had passed in +the morning. Of course, it was possible that he had somehow got +separated from his cart, which was now moving towards home without him. +Meanwhile, we watched Justiniano reach the cart, get off his horse, and +go round to the back to look in behind. He then came round and made fast +his lasso to the horses' heads, remounted, and made start with the cart +in tow in the direction of the Cerro. All this we could see quite +clearly through the telescope. When he arrived, I went down to meet him, +and Correo and Pedrito and uncle Juan were all in attendance. I saw at +once from Justiniano's countenance, that something serious had happened. +Our consternation may be imagined when he told us that the body of the +baker was lying inside the cart, and that he was quite dead, with his +throat cut from ear to ear. How he had come to his death we were unable +to form any idea. We could only suppose that two or three "matreros" had +come across him in the open camp, far from any dwelling, and that they +had done the dastardly deed from sheer devilry. The poor man apparently +had no revolver or weapon with him in the cart; if he had one it had +been taken away, neither was there any sign of shots having been fired +at him; nor was either of the horses in any way maimed or injured. In +fact the whole thing was a complete mystery. Correo and the Indians +seemed greatly impressed. Naturally, the former could identify the body +and the cart as being that of the man from whom he had bought the three +loaves of bread in the morning, but beyond that there was nothing +whatever to point as to how the tragedy had come about. Inside the cart +was indeed a sickening sight. The loaves that remained, and the floor of +the cart, were covered with blood. I took a note of all the gruesome +details, and then we got the body out of the cart, and laid it on a heap +of sheepskins inside the galpon, and covered it over with a white sheet. +When I first saw it the body was quite cold, and probably the poor man +had already been dead for more than two or three hours, for already the +arms and legs had begun to get slightly stiff. By the time all this was +done, it was getting dusk. The sun had already set, so I postponed +sending down to the Swiss Colony to convey the sad news until early the +following morning. + +Soon after sunrise Justiniano started, and I told him to call at La +Concordia on his way back, and tell Don Frederico what had happened. +About ten o'clock two men arrived, who took away the cart and the +remains. I made out a written statement of the whole affair, so far as +we knew about it, and were concerned in it. This I signed and dated, and +got Bent to witness. I then gave it to one of the two men, who turned +out to be a relation of the "finado," or deceased. In the afternoon I +rode down to Marmasola's puesto. He had just returned from Solarez's +pulperia on the other side of the pass. He told me he had heard that a +large division of the Colorado army, with infantry and artillery, was +coming up to turn the Blancos out of the province of Colonia, and that +there was pretty sure to be a battle very shortly. Hearing this, I rode +on to La Concordia to acquaint Don Frederico, who said it was just about +what he expected, and we had better be on the alert, and keep a sharp +look-out. I then went back to the Cerro, and we got the "tamberos" up on +to their "rodeo," and I saw the southdowns safely shut in, and by the +time I had unsaddled and put the "rosillo" into the stable, it was +already sundown. Next morning we were all early on the move. We +carefully shut all the doors and entrances to the galpon, and so far as +we could made all fast. We looked to our firearms, and had our long +ladder which reached to the roof of the house, carefully concealed in +the galpon, so that no one could get up there from outside; in fact, we +prepared everything to make as good a defence as we could in the event +of our being attacked. + +Next morning, after all our preparations, everything appeared quiet, but +about three o'clock in the afternoon we heard the constant firing of big +guns out towards Colla, although, by their sound, we were able to tell +they must have been a good long distance away. The firing continued +intermittently until sundown. We spent the afternoon on the roof, which +we could reach with the small ladder inside the house. Nothing happened +during the night, but half an hour after sunrise the first signs of the +battle which had taken place began to show themselves. First a small +party of Blanco soldiers were seen crossing the estancia at a gallop +from the Pass of the Pichinango, shaping their course straight for the +Sierras de Mal Abrigo. These were followed by others and by single +soldiers, galloping for all they were worth. Then, later on, came the +main body of the Blancos in full flight. Stretching in a long uneven, +but continuous line, they passed about two hundred yards in front of the +Cerro, the wounded in carts without springs, drawn by horses, and what +looked in some cases like half-tamed mares, were continually passing, to +which any amount of whip was forthcoming to make them move. Early in the +day none of the soldiers came up to the Cerro, but about three o'clock a +light cart, with a canvas covering, drove up to the house, with three +horses attached to it. A negro, who sat in front with a whip, which he +evidently had made good use of, was driving. In attendance were two +soldiers, with their lances, and fully armed. They told us that a +wounded colonel lay inside, who was in great pain, so much so that he +could with difficulty bear the jolting of the vehicle, which had no +springs. They asked if we could do anything to help him in his plight. I +proposed that we should get him out of the cart and lay him on a +"quatre" in the covered way which led from the galpon into the court, +where he would get plenty of air, and we could then see if anything +could be done for him. This we did, and then Bent and I attended to him. +He had a severe lance wound in the right side, just above the hip bone. +It was only very roughly bound up with some dirty calico, and he had +evidently lost a good deal of blood. We first gave him a little Caña and +water, and I told Correo to bring him a cup of bouillon, made of mutton, +with rice in it, which he happened to have cooking on the kitchen stove. +We undid the bandage, sponging the wound with warm water, so as to get +it clean so far as we could. I then put on three pads made of linen +soaked in cold water, fresh from the "alhibi," covered them with a piece +of oil-silk I happened to have, and over these a broad linen bandage, to +do which I remember I tore up the last remaining dress shirt I +possessed. Above all this, we firmly fastened a broad strip of blanket, +so that it would not easily move. Meanwhile, Correo and the Indians +roughly fixed up three small bags filled with the dead leaf of the maize +plant, and some old wool we had in the galpon; one for him to lie upon, +with the other two on either side, in order, so far as possible, to +deaden the jolting of the cart. By this time he seemed to have somewhat +recovered, and although we could not persuade him to eat anything solid +he took some more "bouillon," with a little biscuit broken into it. He +seemed a very nice man, about forty years of age, and he told us his +name was Antonio Martinez, and gave me an address which would always +find him. He was very grateful for the little we had been able to do for +him, and told me if at any time he could be of any service to us I was +to be sure to let him know. We then carried him carefully to the cart, +where we made him as comfortable as might be. The soldiers and the negro +had meanwhile got something to eat, and sucked some Matè in the galpon, +so they were quite refreshed, and we watched them make a start, with the +sincere hope that the wounded colonel might safely reach his journey's +end. The passing of the soldiers went on during the day; it did not +finish until about half an hour before sunset. Bent and I watched it to +the end from the "azotea," and it was indeed a wonderful sight. The +excitement and the desire to get on was intense, and it was quite clear +the Blancos had been defeated, and were now making a pretty good run of +it, and that the whole division, of which we had from time to time seen +portions, and heard so much, was hastening to join their main army, lest +the victorious Colorados should again come up with them. We also +remained watchful and alert, and continued to have everything made fast +for the next two or three days, so that should they happen to come our +way they would not catch us unprepared. The dogs, however, did not at +all approve of it, because they could not run in and out of the galpon +at will, but "Napoleon" and "Ramonou" managed to take exercise in the +courtyard, and "Brag" and "Bully" did very much the same. However, a +week went by and we heard nothing of the Colorados after the battle; all +we knew was that none of them seemed to come our way, and for this we +were thankful. One afternoon, a few days later, about half an hour +before sunset, a captain in the Blanco army rode up to the Cerro, +attended by a soldier, carrying his lance and wearing the white device +on his hat. They had a led horse with them in addition to the two they +rode, and all three were in first-rate condition. The captain asked me +if we could put them up for the night. So soon as they had unsaddled, I +had one of the tropillas brought up, and we collared their horses for +them. Correo soon made up a bed, and it was not long before Bent and I +and the captain sat down to supper, the soldier, meanwhile, making +himself quite happy with the Indians in the galpon. After it was over we +sat and smoked and talked in the gun-room, where Correo had lit a small +fire in the stove, so that we were warm and comfortable. Our guest told +us his name was Eduardo Suares; he was very polite, and appeared to be +well educated; and he looked certainly not more than thirty years of +age. He told us the battle of Colonia would have no influence whatever +upon the movements of the main Blanco army, which he expected would now +very shortly be moving forward, and that it would not be long before +Monte Video would be besieged. He did not think for a moment that the +Colorados would be able to make any firm stand outside the capital. All +this being so, he considered that early in July the revolution might +probably be at an end, and the Colorados would be compelled to resign +office. Captain Suarez also said he had passed a great part of his life +in the province of Entre Rios, where his relations had an estancia, but +that he himself was a native of the republic of Uruguay. He gave us the +following interesting account of the great Urguiza, Governour and despot +of the province of Entre Rios, who was one of the strongest, ablest and +most savage lieutenants of the famous Dictator Rosas. He ruled his +province with the dagger and the bullet; himself shut up in a strong +castle in the midst of the "Pampa." Eventually he succeeded to supreme +power after the fall of Rosas, and his first important administrative +act was to assemble all the provincial governours and to ratify the +Fundamental Agreement of January, 1831, as the basis of the Constitution +of the Argentine Confederation. He further told us that he himself was +present at the death of Urguiza, when he was assassinated in 1870. He +said that when Urguiza's body lay dead an Indian chief who was present +exclaimed "Impossibile! El General Urguiza nunca muere!" "Impossible! +The General Urguiza never dies!" It was during Urguiza's governorship of +Entre Rios that it was said you could hang up a pair of silver stirrups +upon a tree in the Monte, on the bank of the river, where there was much +traffic, and go and find them there in a month's time. But this state of +things was certainly not the case in the Republic of Uruguay during La +Guerra de Aparicio, from the year 1870 to the year 1872. We both enjoyed +listening to our guest's descriptive and animated conversation, and +having bid each other "Buena noche" (good-night), retired to rest, as +the captain wished to start early next morning. The horses were up in +the corral by sunrise, when the soldier caught up and saddled his own +and the captain's horse, and after partaking of coffee the latter bid us +"Adios" with many thanks for the very slight hospitality I had been able +to afford them. Exactly three weeks from the day when the wounded +colonel Antonio Martinez drove up to the Cerro, a negro rode up about +twelve o'clock. I happened to be just returning from a ride round the +camp in the opposite direction. He appeared to be well mounted on a +good-looking "bayo," or cream horse, with a black mane and tail, and he +was leading a "saino," or brown, with a white star on his forehead. He +saluted me, and asked if I was in charge of the Cerro. I said "Yes," +whereupon he handed me a letter from Colonel Martinez, saying that after +leaving us he had suffered very much less on his journey, that he had +reached a hospital, and was now almost convalescent, for his wound had +gone on well. It was a nice letter, couched in very friendly terms, +thanking me for what we had done, which was really very little, and +begging that I would accept the "saino" horse as a slight memento of +what had happened. I told the negro to unsaddle and tie up the two +horses and go into the galpon to get some breakfast, which he seemed +very pleased to do. I then just had a look over the "saino." He was at +first sight rather a long low-looking horse, with good shoulders and +long sweeping quarters, and it was this length of body which made him +appear, until you got close up to him, a smaller horse in height than he +really was. He gave me the impression of being between six and seven +years old. Bent had ridden down to the Swiss Colony, hoping to find some +letters he was expecting, so I had to await his return before giving me +his opinion regarding him. I wrote a letter to Colonel Martinez, +thanking him for the horse, and for his kind thought about us, and gave +it to the negro, who promised to deliver it, and after he was +sufficiently refreshed he mounted his "bayo," to whom we had given a +feed of maize, and departed. I then had the "tropilla" brought in, and +collared the "saino" to the bay mare. Her colt, which old Juan had +tamed, still suffered at times from his shoulder; hard ground seemed to +affect him the most, for after rain he could then be ridden. A little +before sundown Bent returned quite cheerful, having received his +letters. There were several people at Quincke's pulperia, and the place +seemed full of conversation and news. It was said that the advance on +Monte Video by the Blanco army had already begun, and that the Colorados +were now retiring before them. Those who had taken part in the battle of +Colonia had already returned to the province of San Josè by a route +which led them nearer to the estuary of La Plata, and I could not help +fearing lest in their passing they might have gone to Monsieur Emile +Gunther's, and so have taken "Carnival." However, I comforted myself by +the certainty that if I had kept him on at the Cerro I must have lost +him. When the horses came up in the morning, I saddled the "saino" and +rode him down to La Concordia. Bent was not much impressed by his +appearance, but when I saw Don Frederico, he said he thought him a good +honest horse, likely to prove a good servant, and that I had better do +all I could to look after him. We had now reached the second week in +June, and winter had already come. However, we had plenty of grass, and +both sheep and cattle had done very well since the New Year began. About +eleven o'clock Marmasola sent me up a message by one of his boys to say +that a battle on a somewhat large scale had taken place inside the +province of San Josè; that the Blancos had been victorious, and that the +Colorados were now completely disorganised, and fleeing before them. +Further, it was supposed the main Blanco army would now move forward and +besiege Monte Video. This was indeed great news, and we now felt we +should soon see the end of the revolution, and peace would be declared +at last. Two days later, about four o'clock, a Blanco officer rode up to +the Cerro, carrying dispatches. He said his horse was tired, for he had +travelled fast and far, and he begged me to lend him a really good +horse, which would carry him along for five leagues (15 miles), without +loss of time, at the end of which he felt certain of obtaining fresh +horses and all he wanted. What was I to do? He said the dispatches were +urgent, and he had been directed to make all possible haste. I thought +it over a couple of minutes, and then told him I would lend him my +rosillo, provided he would faithfully promise to let him go at the end +of the five leagues, and this he promised to do. The moon was nearly at +the full, and would be shining during the greater part of the night, +which looked as if it would be fine and clear. The rosillo was in +excellent form; he had not been ridden for nearly a week, and I knew he +would carry him swiftly and well, and that if all went right, when let +loose he would do his best to make his own way back to the Cerro with +the moon. While he was being got ready, the officer, who looked as if +his word could be relied on, told me that the news Marmasola had sent to +me was correct, and that it was more than probable that the siege of the +capital had already commenced. It was with a sore heart that I said, +"Hasta la vista," "until we see each other again," to the rosillo, and +saw the officer mount him and ride away. For it was the first and only +time that a soldier had put a leg across him during the revolution. So +I wished the officer "un buen viaje" (a good journey); the rosillo +tossed up his head and set off at a gallop; he had the heart of a lion, +and very soon both were out of sight. + +The first news I heard next morning was from Pedrito. He said he was +bringing up the tropillas not long after sunrise, when he heard a neigh +behind him, and looking back there was the rosillo, coming at a trot to +join his troop, just as if nothing had happened. He looked none the +worse for his journey, and a drink of water from the "alhibi" and a feed +of maize pleased him greatly. "Napoleon," too, showed pleasure at his +safe return, for they were great friends, and had passed many a night +together when the rosillo was tied up in the court, and even when in his +stable the dog would lie as close to it as he could. June passed away +and nothing happened, except that the news of Monte Video being closely +besieged by the Blancos was fully confirmed; and then early in July +peace was declared. The revolution was over, and what had been known as +"La Guerra de Aparicio" was at length a thing of the past. Thereupon the +Blancos took over the government, and assumed power, and the whole +country quickly settled down, as was the custom of a South American +republic under similar circumstances. + +Charles Bent at once began to prepare to go into Monte Video, and left +by the diligence from Quincke's pulperia the middle of the following +week. His life in Uruguay had not been a very successful one, nor was he +really fond of camp life; indeed, he was already looking forward with +pleasure to the many conveniences and comparative comfort of life in a +town. During the latter half of the month I too was turning over in my +mind whether I would not take a journey out towards the Rio Negro, +where I knew a man who had a large estancia. I had rather a fancy to go +up country, for not only should I be able to see all that was to be +seen, but also obtain a little more experience of estancia life, +probably under somewhat different conditions and surroundings. However, +while I was thinking it all over, I received a letter from Mr. James +Jardine, who was living at his estancia La Esperanza, situate some six +leagues from the town of San Josè in the direction of the river Plate, +inviting me to come and stay with him there for a time. He said he had +heard from a mutual friend in Monte Video that it was not unlikely I +might be leaving the Cerro now the war was over, so he wrote at once +lest I should be making any different plans. I rode down to La Concordia +and showed the letter to Don Frederico, who advised me to take advantage +of the opportunity offered. He said, however, that he was arranging to +go away himself very shortly for about three weeks, and he hoped I +should be able to stay on at the Cerro during his absence, and so look +after things until his return. Accordingly, I dispatched a letter to Mr. +Jardine, thanking him for what he so kindly said in his letter, and +informing him how matters stood, and saying that I hoped to arrive at La +Esperanza during the last week in August. I found myself fully occupied +during Don Frederico's absence, and I kept the weekly "para rodeo" of +the cattle going on regularly. On one of these occasions, I was riding +the "saino," we were rather short-handed, and a big point of cattle made +an attempt to break back. I had to put the "saino," therefore, into a +full gallop, and was rather surprised to find that he seemed to me to +have, when stretching himself out, quite a superior turn of speed. With +a little care and rest he had considerably improved, both in looks and +condition. One beautiful day, with a frosty air and a blue sky, I rode +him down to Monsieur Emile Gunther's, to ask after "Carnival." I found +him at home, and he kindly invited me to join them at breakfast. +Although it was the end of winter, the Swiss Colony looked attractive as +I rode through it, and this was doubtless due to the fact that the +numerous and large clumps of "eucalypti" never lost their summer +foliage. Monsieur Emile told me "Carnival" had kept well and safe from +soldiers. Moreover, when from time to time he had been good enough to +use him, as I had especially asked him to do, he had always found him a +very pleasant horse to ride. I sincerely thanked him for his kindness, +and, when I left, saddled up "Carnival," leading the "saino," who led +very well, and I arrived home with my two horses feeling that I had +greatly enjoyed my ride, and I am sure that "Napoleon" was glad to see +his friend again. One afternoon during Don Frederico's absence I had +been round the puestos, returning but a few minutes before sundown. The +southdowns were shut up inside their sheepyard, and in it was a man in +the act of catching hold of one of them. He was brandishing a large +knife, and loudly gesticulating, and he looked to me as if he had been +drinking too much Caña. It seems he had ridden up shortly before and +asked the Indians to give him some mutton to eat, as he said he had been +riding in the woods of the Pichinango, and that he was hungry, and +wanted food. This they offered to do, but when he saw the southdowns in +their yard he said he would have one of them, and when they remonstrated +and told him I should be very angry, merely remarked "that he did not +care for any Englishmen, whether he liked it or not. It did not matter +the least to him." As it happened, I just rode up at the critical +moment, when I at once jumped off my horse, went into the yard, and told +the man to come out of it, and leave the sheep alone. He made a step or +two forward, towards me, knife in hand, but I whipped out my Colts +revolver, and covered him with the barrel, warning him that if he came a +step forward I should fire. This calmed him down, and he put back his +knife into its sheath and began to walk out of the yard. I told him to +mount his horse at once, and clear out, and that if I found him again +interfering with any of the stock upon the estancia, it would be the +worse for him. So he rode away, looking very much subdued. I could only +suppose him to be one of the matreros who were still said to be hovering +about the woods in our neighbourhood. + +It had been Correo's intention to go into Monte Video so soon as peace +was declared, but he told me he felt altogether so much better for his +stay at the Cerro, he should like to remain on until I left. On August +25th, Don Frederico returned, and I went down to see him the following +morning. He very kindly said he wished me to keep the rosillo, seeing I +had taken such care of him in memory of my stay at the Cerro. I proposed +that "Ramonou" should go down to La Concordia, where I knew he would be +useful, as there were plenty of sheep dogs where I was going. "Bully" +and "Brag" were to go there with him. Jennings had been away for some +time, but I thought perhaps he might like to have them back. Don +Frederico also said I had better take Justiniano with me, as he could +lead the "saino" with my light baggage. My box and portmanteau meanwhile +could be sent over to Quincke's pulperia to await the next diligence +passing on to San Josè, where it could be left at the Hotel Oriental, +until I could send for them. I arranged to start three days later, and +when I got back began putting my things together, and getting everything +ready for a move. The morning proved fine, and Justiniano and I were all +ready saddled up soon after sunrise. + +I rode "Carnival" and led the rosillo, while Justiniano bestrode a +grey, not by any means a bad horse, which had been left by soldiers. He +led the "saino," also saddled, and carrying my light baggage. + +Uncle Juan, and Correo, and Pedrito were all present to see us off, and +thus I bid adieu to the Cerro del Pichinango, not without regret, as I +thought of the day I had first arrived there, now more than two years +ago, and of all that had happened since. + + + + +PART III. + +LA ESTANCIA ESPERANZA. + + +We rode quietly along, for we had about twelve and a half leagues in +front of us, until we reached our journey's end. "Napoleon" appeared +quite happy; not the least upset by the prospect of a change in his +surroundings. I had brought some cold meat and biscuit, and a little +coffee and sugar, so that we might enjoy a light meal between eleven and +twelve o'clock, and also let the horses rest and graze for a while. We +made a little fire by the side of the track, and then sat down until our +coffee got warm. After that, we made good progress, so that we arrived +at La Esperanza about three o'clock in the afternoon, where I received a +very kind welcome from Mr. and Mrs. Jardine, who were at home at the +time. When I had unsaddled, the former told me to turn my three horses +into a large paddock, enclosed with wire fencing, where he said they +would be all right. Justiniano, however, kept his grey, and tethered him +out for the night, so that he could then get it early next morning, when +he was to return to the Cerro. Mr. Jardine's house was both roomy and +comfortable. It stood facing a picturesque river, less than half a mile +distant, with woods on either bank. In front was a wide verandah, which +also went further back in the middle, thus dividing the house, as it +were, into two wings, united at the back by bedrooms, which lay behind. +As you entered Mr. and Mrs. Jardine's apartments were on the right, and +a large dining-room, with a kitchen and sundry outbuildings attached, +lay to the left. Quite at the far end of the house to the right stood a +high tower, with a comfortable sitting-room below, and a bedroom above. +Beyond this again was a flower garden, with numerous fruit trees, and +this joined on to another garden at the back, where both flowers and +vegetables abundantly flourished. In front of the verandah, looking +towards the river, was a wide open space. A brick house, with its roof +of red tiles, a storehouse, and an office stood fairly removed on the +right, while further away in front was a "galpon," or woolshed, with +ranchos for employees adjoining, but these latter were at the same time +so situate as not in any way to incommode the house itself, neither did +they shut off the view of the woods and river beyond. Mr. James Jardine, +or Don Diego, as he was mostly called, was a thin spare man, of middle +height, and something over forty years of age. He was a great sportsman, +and devoted to shooting; indeed, during the winter months he occupied +himself in scarcely any other way. He really took but little interest in +the work of the estancia, as he left this to his managing partner, Mr. +Alexander Maclean, otherwise known as Don Alejandro, who, at the time of +my arrival, was away in Monte Video, but was expected to return in about +a fortnight. Mrs. Jardine was not very strong; she usually had her +sister, Miss Denman, living with her, who, at the time I came, was away +on a visit. There were two little boys, one five years old, called +Peter, and the other two and a half, whose name was John. They were +altogether a very happy family, greatly preferring the freedom of the +camp to the conventions of town life. + +The Estancia Esperanza comprised somewhere about eleven thousand acres, +but within this area were included three or four "banyados," or small +lakes, and a certain amount of land, which was often covered with water +during wet weather, but affording at the same time very useful +pasturage. There were twelve hundred head of cattle, and a "manada" of +mares and colts, beside something over thirteen thousand sheep. These +were distributed at five puestos, more or less two thousand and five +hundred at each, while perhaps five hundred fed at the estancia itself. +Both cattle and sheep were each under the charge of a "capataz," or +foreman, who carried on all work connected with them, the sheep being +under the superintendence of a Scotchman, named John Gordon, and the +cattle and horses of a native, who would then be more than fifty years +of age. His name was Ramon Duran, a first-rate camp man, who knew his +business thoroughly. Owing to the war, which had so recently ended, the +estancia was short of riding horses. Mr. Jardine was much surprised when +I told him I had succeeded in saving mine, for he had nearly had to part +with the only horse he ever really cared to ride, a good-looking +"rosillo alazan," or chestnut roan; indeed, he said it was more good +luck than any care and management on his part which had enabled him to +keep him. Meanwhile, all was well, he said, which ended well. Spring was +now coming on, and September came in fine and warm. I went for a ride +round the estancia, and came back along the bank of the river. It was +pleasant riding here, and I could well imagine that later on in the +summer the flowering creepers would be very beautiful. As I passed, it +was drawing on to sunset; I noted the cry of a "carpincho," or +water-pig, whom I had suddenly disturbed, while the shrill call of the +"pteru-pteru," or plover, made itself heard on the plain beyond; and a +flight of water-fowl, among whom I noticed a white egret crane, came +quickly swooping down at the side of some marshy land, mostly covered +with reeds, where doubtless they had their home. When I again reached +the house I was glad to find my box and portmanteau had arrived, a +cartman who was returning to La Esperanza having come across them at the +Hotel Oriental in San José, and brought them along in his cart. +"Napoleon" had already found a corner in the verandah, underneath the +tower, in which to sleep. He was a very good-tempered dog, and I had no +fear that he would be at all likely in any way to alarm the children. +Next morning I walked down to the corral, to see the riding horses +brought up, a good many of which had evidently been left by soldiers +during the war. During the next couple of weeks the flocks from the +puestos were being passed through the sheepyards at the estancia; the +lambs had to be marked, and various matters attended to. I also went to +my first "para rodeo" of the cattle. We had horses tied up the night +before, and made an early start. I rode my rosillo, and went with Ramon +Duran to the far end of the estancia, looking towards the river Plate. +It was a beautiful morning, and the air was delightful as we galloped +along. I soon perceived the cattle were well in hand. They came up very +well to the "rodeo," and were easy to keep there. The first fortnight in +October proved very fine and warm. Meanwhile, Miss Denman had returned, +as also had Mr. Alexander Maclean, from Monte Video. I found him to be a +big, burly, and apparently good-natured looking Scotchman. He proposed +that I should take charge of the accounts, and also lend a hand in the +ordinary routine work of the estancia. He took me into the office and +shewed me the books, explaining how they had been kept. I had hitherto +been occupying one of the bedrooms opening on the garden, which lay +behind the house, but I now moved up into the bedroom above the tower. +This was very agreeable, for there was a splendid look-out from either +of the two windows, and I could imagine what it would appear on some +clear night in summer, when a full moon was shining, the heat of the +day over, and you could gaze far and wide in every direction, beyond +lake and wood, and river, away to the distant horizon, which alone would +appear to end the undulating plains of Uruguay. There was a very nice +American wagonette at the estancia. It had four wheels, and was fitted +with a pole, and drawn by a pair of small bay horses, with flowing manes +and tails. Their brown harness was both light and strong, with brass +mountings, so that altogether it was really a very pretty turn-out. A +young Scotchman, who acted as coachman, sat in front, while those inside +sat facing each other behind. When the weather permitted, Mrs. Jardine +much enjoyed a drive down to Beatty's puesto, which was at the far end +of the estancia, and she liked to take her sister and the children with +her. Accordingly, one afternoon, they all made a start, inviting me to +go with them. So I mounted "Carnival," whom I happened to have caught +up, and "Napoleon" went with us. There were one or two wide tracks +leading from La Esperanza, on either side of it, which had developed +into quite respectable roads for driving on. Partly from having been +beaten down by carts, and partly from the nature of the soil, they +seemed to have caked down quite hard and firm, so that ruts and bad +places were few, and the carriage was able to pass smoothly and easily +along. Mrs. Beatty was a nice woman, with an engaging manner. She had +two children, Susan, a little girl of nine, and David, a fine little +fellow of five. She had unfortunately lost her eldest boy, who would now +have been about fourteen, a little more than a year ago, owing to an +accident with a horse, which had kicked him and seriously hurt him +internally. This was a great grief to his mother; his name was Robert, +and he had come out with his parents from Scotland. Mrs. Beatty welcomed +us warmly when we arrived. It made quite a small picnic for the +children, for she always insisted on their staying to have tea and some +of the nice little Scotch cakes she made. So we took the horses out of +the carriage, and tied them up under the "euremada," for the sun was now +getting to be quite hot after mid-day. Beatty himself was a quiet, +rather solemn-looking man, with a red complexion, and sandy-coloured +hair. It was pleasant as we returned in the late afternoon, and as we +passed along, we saw one of the blue silver foxes some distance ahead of +us, already come out of his lair, preparing for an evening stroll. We +made too much noise for him, however, and he soon made off, followed in +full chase by "Napoleon," but naturally to no purpose. The sun was fast +declining when we reached the estancia; however, I was pleased to hear +both the ladies and children tell Mr. Jardine, who was in the verandah, +they had enjoyed their drive, and had all of them spent a very pleasant +afternoon. The next morning we had a heavy thunderstorm, with sharp and +continuous flashes of lightning, which lasted upwards of an hour, and +was then followed by torrential rain. This went on the greater part of +the day. + +Shearing began on the tenth of November. There was only a small gang of +six professional shearers employed. The remainder were made up of +natives living in the neighbourhood, of which there were a good many, +who not only could shear well, but had been accustomed to come year +after year. The "galpon" was not nearly so large as that at the Cerro, +in fact the room available was if anything too restricted for the number +of sheep which had to be shorn. More time, therefore, was needed to +complete the business. On November 20th a spell of bad weather set in +which caused delay, as the sheep naturally were wet and could not easily +be got dry again. However, a week later it cleared up, and after that +work progressed satisfactorily. The shearers were very quiet, and +orderly, and although they did not shear very fast, they did their work +well. The month of December, however, was half through before the +shearing was completed, and the shearers, having received the money due +to them, finally took their departure. No festivities took place, as was +so often customary at the end of shearing, but it was generally +understood that a race or something of the kind would be held later on, +probably on one of the days between Christmas and the New Year. John +Gordon, the "capataz" of the sheep, had a nice bay horse, about five +years old, belonging to himself, which had been born and grown up, and +also been tamed on the estancia. His owner considered him to be +something of a racer; indeed, had so high an opinion of him, I really +believed him to think he would easily run away from anything likely to +be put against him. When some talk was taking place about having a race +one evening at dinner, I said I should not mind matching my old "saino" +against Gordon's bay, provided the distance was anything over a mile. +Don Alejandro told Gordon what I had said, and he was quite willing to +ride his horse against mine, and as it happened we were both just about +an equal weight. I had seen the bay several times, a good-looking horse, +with a white star on his forehead, and two white hind fetlocks, and I +reflected I had probably made a mistake in putting my "saino" against +him. However, as the race was only to be for prizes given by Mr. Jardine +and Don Alejandro, and there was to be no betting between Gordon and +myself, nor indeed did I intend to bet with anyone else, I did not see +any harm would be done, and if it gave any pleasure to the people on the +estancia to see a bit of a gallop, all I had to say was I hoped they +would enjoy the amusement of it, and that the best horse would win. The +time being so short, it was obvious nothing could be done in regard to +training either horse, beyond giving him half a dozen gallops or so, +just to clear his wind; and it was agreed that both horses should run +the race as they were, without giving them any maize or special +preparation. The "saino" had improved a good bit in condition since he +came to La Esperanza. A rest had done him good, especially as to his +forelegs, which I felt sure had been a bit shaken. He had also got his +summer coat, and this added to his appearance. We now knew the distance +was to be a mile and a quarter, on the track leading from the estancia +towards Beatty's puesto, and the finish was to end as close to the +_former_ as possible. I caught the "saino" up for three hours every day, +and gave him a brush over, and saw to his feet, taking him out for a +gentle canter, and every other day I gave him a gallop on the course, +but not at full speed; in fact, I only put him to this twice until the +day of the race arrived, and then for not more than a quarter of a mile +at a time. Gordon did much the same with his bay, only while I rode my +horse late in the afternoon, he rode his early in the morning, when +no-one was much about to see how he performed. New Year's Day was +appointed for the race to be run, at three o'clock in the afternoon, the +day being, of course, a holiday. There was a pretty general feeling at +the estancia that the bay horse would win, and the odds were greatly in +his favour. I knew, of course, that bets would be made on the race. I +never knew a race in South America when they were not, but beyond the +prizes that were given, I myself, as I have before mentioned, did not +stand to win anything. These were to be an excellent English saddle and +bridle complete, and a breech-loading revolver, of a good make, with a +box containing a hundred cartridges to fit. New Year's Day proved fine +and still; the sun shone from a blue sky, interspersed here and there +with light "cirrus" cloud, but the air was fresh and cool, so it was not +too hot; just the day, indeed, for everyone to enjoy a holiday. News of +the race, of course, got about, and I was told that some natives who +were interested in racing were coming to look on, probably inspired by +curiosity to see how the Englishmen managed it. As Gordon and I rode +quietly down, soon after half-past two o'clock, to the starting point, +there seemed quite a little crowd gathering where the finish was to take +place. Two friends of Gordon came with us to see us off. The start was +quickly made, neither horse giving the slightest trouble. The bay took +the lead from the first, and made the running throughout, the "saino" +being in close attendance. When, however, we were about three hundred +yards from the finish, and I fancied the bay seemed flagging a little, +for I saw that Gordon was using his whip, I also made a call upon the +"saino" which he immediately answered, and stretching himself out, shot +forward like an arrow from a bow, winning easily by a couple of lengths. +The natives at once came to inspect the winner, and one, who seemed +somewhat of a principal man among them, asked me if I would like to part +with him, offering me forty dollars for him. I asked him if he was +buying him to keep or to sell again, and also if he would be sure and +treat him all right. He promised to keep him, and to do this, so we rode +back to the estancia. I unsaddled the "saino," the man paid me over the +forty dollars, and he then took the horse straight away with him. I knew +if I refused the offer, that it would not probably be very long before +the old "saino" would be missing, for I had noticed one or two natives +present, men who did not look too particular, shewing a somewhat +peculiar interest in the horse, now they had seen how he could gallop. +As a matter of fact, I had no real fancy for racing, and I thought it +better to pass on the "saino" to an owner who did like it, and to a man +who evidently appreciated the horse's good qualities, and would +therefore be likely to take good care of him. I happened to hear of him +again some time later from a man I met casually. He told me the horse +had done a good bit of racing in a quiet way, and had been quite +successful, and had done well for his new owner, so that he also would +probably continue to do well by him. I received many congratulations +upon the result of the race, and it seemed to be the general opinion +that the native, when he bought the "saino" from me, got very good value +for his money. In the middle of January the weather became very hot, and +this lasted a little over a fortnight, and then came a succession of +thunderstorms, with severe lightning, which rapidly cooled the air. I +watched one of these with much interest about 9 p.m. through the windows +of my room above the tower. Just an ordinary display of nature's +fireworks, but how grand they were! as the vivid flashes shot like +rockets in every direction through the overheated atmosphere of a summer +in the Southern Hemisphere. + +Meantime, Mr. Jardine had received a letter from a Mr. Treherne, a +friend of his residing in Buenos Aires, saying he purposed coming up to +Monte Video for a little rest and change, and that if it were possible +he should very much like to see him. Thereupon, he at once wrote +inviting him to come and spend a few days at La Esperanza, and he asked +him to fix his own day to travel to San José in the diligence, and to +let us know, so that we might send in to meet him. Accordingly word came +to expect him on February 4th, so I went in with a boy, mounted on a +chestnut, and a nice little grey horse belonging to the estancia, and +"Carnival" to welcome him. I also had a little business to arrange at +the Policia, and I wanted if possible to have a short interview with the +chief of police. So we started just before three o'clock, arriving at +the Hotel Oriental not long before the diligence was expected. When it +came it brought Mr. Treherne with it. He was rather a delicate-looking +man, getting on towards fifty, his hair fast turning grey, and with the +manner of the student rather than the man of affairs. He had only +brought light luggage in a pair of canvas saddle bags, which the boy +could easily sling across his "recado." I got him a comfortable bedroom +at the hotel, and a smaller one for myself. We then had dinner. At eight +o'clock next morning, I went to the police station, transacted my +business, and before leaving was fortunate in obtaining ten minutes' +conversation with the chief of police, a tall, grizzled-looking man, who +was, however, very courteous, and polite. I had two or three small +commissions to attend to for Mrs. Jardine, and some medicine to get at +the chemist's for John, and then, having partaken of coffee and bread +and butter, we were all ready for a start at half-past nine. I asked Mr. +Treherne which horse he would prefer to ride, "Carnival" or the grey. He +preferred the former, and we were soon jogging along through the +outskirts of the town. My companion was not much of a horseman, but +"Carnival" knew his business, and carried him smoothly and easily along; +he was fortunately very safe on his legs, and knew well how to pick his +way over rough ground; indeed, all the rider need do was to sit quiet +and hold the reins, for "Carnival" himself would do all the rest. + +Mr. Treherne expressed great pleasure at seeing Mr. and Mrs. Jardine +again, telling them he had a capital journey, and that the beautiful air +of the open country, as he rode along, had given him quite an appetite +for luncheon. He was very fond of plants and flowers, and, indeed, +something of a botanist as well. During his stay he expressed a wish to +see the coastline and shores of La Plata, and said how greatly he would +enjoy an expedition there some fine day, when it was not too hot. Mr. +Jardine could not accompany him, but he asked me to do so, and we +arranged for an early start, as the shore of the estuary lay a good long +way beyond the furthest point of the estancia in that direction, so that +going there and back made a certain distance to ride. I again offered +him "Carnival," as he seemed to like him so much, and I rode a bay horse +belonging to the estancia. + +When we got beyond our own camp we passed through a kind of open wood +with thinly-scattered "tala" trees. These were not large, much in shape +of a prickly shrub, although on or near the banks of a river these trees +grew much larger, and their wood was greatly used both for fencing and +firewood. As we progressed the soil got poorer, until at last we came to +what were really sand-dunes. + +These were undulating, and of large extent, and as we passed along my +companion noticed every here and there rather a deep dell, with shrubs +growing in it. Here the sand was deep, so we dismounted and led our +horses, and leaving his with me, and going down into one of these, he +was surprised to find it quite bright with flowers, "Petunias," and +"Lantana," whose improved relations, he said, were great favourites in +English gardens. We then were able to remount our horses, and so +proceeded slowly on to the shore of the Estuary de la Plata. Here the +outlook was most attractive. Nothing, not even a sail, visible on the +wide waters, shining like silver in the sunshine on that early summer +afternoon. A wide expanse of sand like the sea-shore stretched east and +west, golden in colour, and hard and firm to ride on. Bordering this, +along the edge of the dunes, were a row of large cacti, the kind you +see in flower-pots in England, but here ten to fifteen feet high, with +beautiful crimson blossoms in full bloom, hanging in profusion on the +edge of their pendant branches. Here we unsaddled and tied up the horses +beneath their shade. I soon had a fire lighted to keep off the flies, +and also to warm some coffee I had brought with us. Our luncheon, too, +was welcome, and we enjoyed it greatly. After a rest and a smoke we +again saddled up, and had a good gallop on the sands, which the horses +seemed to enjoy every bit as much as we did. We returned by a somewhat +different route, turning towards the river bank, and following it during +the latter portion of our ride. When crossing the camp, I pointed out +the patches of verbena, some scarlet and some white, which in places +quite covered the short grass, looking very bright and pretty. We now +kept close to the woods, but the undergrowth was too thick and tangled +to allow anyone easily to get inside. Mr. Treherne was much interested +to see quite large trees apparently covered with flowers, but on nearer +approach he found they did not belong to the tree itself, but were the +blossoms of a creeper, which completely enveloped it. Some of them were +quite brilliant in colour, in marked contrast to the festoons of grey +lichen moss, which hung from other trees in close proximity. He +dismounted and succeeded in getting some semi-tropical orchids, which it +gave him pleasure to take back with him. We were also fortunate in +seeing a family of the "carpincho," or water-pig; a mother and her +little ones. They were a pretty brown colour, with thick, somewhat +bristly coats, in form like a large guinea-pig, with short legs, and +webbed feet. On hearing us they all sprang into the river, and swam +hurriedly away, their heads only showing above the water. When taken +young they make rather amusing pets, and become very affectionate and +domesticated, though at the same time they will occasionally go down and +join their wild companions for a swim in the river, provided it be near +enough, returning back to the house afterwards. + +The summer's day was drawing to its close as we rode up to the estancia, +unsaddled the horses, and let them go. When Mr. Treherne took his +departure I lent him "Carnival," and accompanied him to San Josè. We +arrived during the afternoon and, as I had some business to attend to, I +left him at the hotel to rest after his ride. I also took the +opportunity of calling upon Colonel Gonzales, who was then in residence +at a house he owned in the town. A tall, aristocratic-looking man, +descended from one of the old Spanish families, who had originally +colonised Uruguay, he was now a widower with two daughters, the +Señoritas Augusta and Isabella. The former resembled her father, having +a somewhat pensive expression, a clear, pale complexion, and dark hair. +She had a quiet, gentle manner, and her sister was wont to describe her +as "muy religiosa" (very religious). She herself, on the contrary, was +vivacious, and amusing, with brown hair and a bright complexion. I was +accorded a kind and friendly reception by the colonel, who said he hoped +when again in the town I should not fail to come and see them. Soon +after I got back to the hotel we saw the arrival of the diligence from +Paysandû; this was always an event in the day, and it was timed to start +before six o'clock next morning for Monte Video. The horses were quickly +taken out, and the passengers emerged, weary and hungry, and entered the +hotel. Then dinner was served, when we were fortunate in securing a +small table beside one of the large windows opening on the street to +ourselves. We then had some coffee and a cigarette, and afterwards +walked out to listen to the band which played in the "plaza" when the +evening was warm enough. The musicians occupied a small stand in the +centre, around which the audience walked on a wide path, or sat about on +seats or chairs, as seemed most convenient. Just opposite to the "plaza" +stood the Cathedral. The moon was shining brightly, and here and there +an officer in uniform, or some other "caballero" in close attendance +upon a Señorita wearing the very becoming "mantilla," added to the +picturesqueness of the scene. Returning to the hotel, we went to bed, +for we had to be up early in the morning, when I duly saw Mr. Treherne, +together with his belongings, take his seat in the diligence, and with +many thanks for the little I had been able to do for him, he bid me +farewell, saying he hoped at some future time he might have the pleasure +of seeing me again at his home in Buenos Aires. Among the usual loud +exclamations and cracking of whips, the diligence then started, and was +soon out of sight in a cloud of dust, as it rolled and swung forward on +its long journey. I then mounted "Carnival" and led a bay horse I had +been riding, and although travelling somewhat slowly, reached the +estancia a little before ten o'clock. During the next week I received a +letter from the wounded Colonel Antonio Martinez, saying he had taken +office in the new Blanco Government, and was now living in Monte Video. +He gave me his new address, and told me that if he could do anything for +me, and I would write and let him know, it would give him great +pleasure. I accordingly wrote and thanked him for his letter and his +kind thought, and told him I was no longer living at the Cerro del +Pichinango, but was now at La Estancia Esperanza, some six leagues +distant from the town of San Josè. Thereupon, shortly afterwards, I +received another letter from him, saying he had a great friend, Don +Carlos Mendoza, the recently appointed "Gefè Politico" (or Governour of +the Department), and that he had written to give me an introduction to +him, and to say that he had asked me to call upon him at his residence +in San Josè the next time I happened to find myself in the town. I wrote +and thanked him, expressing my gratitude, and saying it would give me +great pleasure to avail myself of an opportunity which he had been so +very good as to propose. We were now getting well on towards the end of +March, and the weather was much cooler, but fine and pleasant, as is so +often the case during the early autumn. About ten days later, two young +brothers, Elliott by name, turned up at La Esperanza, about an hour +before sundown. They were riding out from Monte Video to a small +estancia belonging to a friend in the province of Colonia. They had a +peon with them, who was leading an extra horse, and who was also engaged +to act as guide, and they had ridden on that day from an estancia about +twelve leagues distant, inside where they had been put up for the night, +such being in these old-fashioned times a very common custom when +travelling through the country. Seeing that they hailed from across the +border, and that Don Alejandro and Mr. Jardine both happened to know +something of their people at home, they were not only made welcome for +the night, but were invited to stay until the beginning of the week +following, so that they could rest their horses, see something of the +estancia, and then proceed on their journey. They were in appearance one +very like the other, with fair hair, blue eyes, and youthful, rosy, +complexions. They had only lately landed in Monte Video, and after +learning farming for a couple of years in the south of Scotland, had +come out to Uruguay, having between them a moderate capital, with the +intention of renting land, purchasing sheep and cattle, and so setting +up as estancieros in a small way. There was only apparently about two +years difference in their age; indeed, it would be difficult to surmise +which was the elder. They had come out full of ideas and of hope for the +future, being but little aware that the experience they might have had +on the land at home would be of but little use to them in Uruguay, +seeing what kind of a country it then was. But they were evidently a +pair of cheery happy-go-lucky young fellows, and as I looked at them at +dinner, and listened to their pleasant and interesting conversation, I +could not help wondering what was destined to be their future. That +evening, it was a Thursday, we were all smoking in the dining-room, when +the talk turned upon the native method of taming young horses. Not +thinking of its being taken seriously, I happened to say that I should +not mind mounting a "potro," but I dare not say how long I should stay +on his back. "Bravo! Don Guillermo," said Don Alejandro, with a laugh, +"you shall mount one. We will have one tied up to-morrow afternoon, and +you shall give him his first gallop on Saturday morning." I felt +somewhat disconcerted, but did not like to draw back, and so it was +arranged, and not long afterwards we all retired to rest. Accordingly, a +portion of the "manada" was driven up into the corral, and with them was +a colt, which must have been nearly six years old, of a muddly roan +colour, with a flowing mane and tail, which had seldom come up before, +having never been touched since he was marked late as a foal. A lasso +was quickly thrown round his neck, and another round his hind legs, and +falling helpless to the ground, a halter was put over his head and made +fast with a stout thong of hide to a firm post. This would be about an +hour before sundown, and here he had to remain during the night. This +rough and ready treatment in handling a colt was quite a novelty to the +two young men, who had never even imagined anything of the sort, and I +feel sure they were looking forward with both interest and amusement to +his having his first gallop on the next morning. I looked him over as he +was being tied up, and came to the conclusion he was probably a bit of a +tartar, although, as is well-known, appearances are often deceptive. Of +course, the news of what was to happen became known, and about ten +o'clock on Saturday morning, nearly everyone seemed on the look-out to +see me start off. When we came to fix my "recado" he gave but little +trouble, although I noticed he seemed sulky, with a nasty sullen look +out of the corner of his eyes. He was now led away outside the +buildings, where all four legs were tied together by a long hide thong, +in such a manner that by giving one pull it all became instantly undone +and fell to the ground. I now mounted, Ramon Duran coming on his horse +alongside as "padrino," to accompany me, and help to guide the horse. A +native pulled loose the leg-ropes, and I was at last ready for a start. +The colt stood still a moment, wondering what had happened, and then +made a violent plunge forward and started buck-jumping with all his +might. He seemed to bend himself almost double, with his head and legs +nearly touching underneath. I sat on for a time, while the bucking +process continued, and then he threw me clean over his head, but I fell +clear of him, and at once got up from the ground, none the worse for the +fall. After getting my breath, I got on him again, with Ramon Duran +close alongside me, but he again started buck-jumping, even more +violently than before. I kept my seat until I felt my legs quite numb +with the continued strain, and then I suddenly let loose the slight hold +I had and came off a yard or two away on my feet. So I felt comforted; +for this, even among the Indians, did not count as a fall. Ramon said he +was "un diablo ungobernable" (an ungovernable devil), and urged me not +to mount him again, but so soon as my legs had regained their feeling I +persisted in doing so. This time he tried it on, but not so severely, +and I managed to hold tight, punishing him at the same time with my +"rebenque," or hide whip. I thus got him into a gallop straight ahead, +Ramon following as close as he could behind, and with the open camp in +front of me, I kept him at it until he completely succumbed, and in fact +would now go any way I wished. For the moment he had enough, and I rode +him back to the estancia, past the buildings and the people, who had +gathered to see the fun, right up in front of the house. I received +quite a small ovation, it was anyway very much more than the occasion +deserved. I then dismounted, and the colt was collared to a mare, so +that he could feed, and be got hold of easily again when wanted. The two +Mr. Elliotts, who I am sure were very good-natured, both told me how +pleased they were I had come to no harm, thanking me, and saying that +what they had seen was quite a revelation to them. The end of it was +that they all drank my health that evening at dinner, and next morning +Mr. Jardine instructed the carpenter to cut out a round medal from a +piece of lead with my initials on it, which was duly presented to me. +Indeed, I believe I possess it somewhere or other to this day. + +On Monday morning the Elliotts resumed their journey towards Colonia, +having, I am sure, enjoyed their little visit, and we all felt pleased +to have been able to entertain them. The autumn had now come, and Mr. +Jardine was beginning to think about his shooting, and looking over the +guns and ammunition. The season had been a favourable one, partridges, +or rather quail, were already getting into good condition, and it would +not be long before the duck-shooting commenced. In shooting "quail," the +custom was for two or three sportsmen to walk in a line, about fifty +yards apart, and so catch the birds as they rose in front of them from +the long grass, where they lay concealed. They were fairly plentiful, +and, if the birds rose well, as they often did, afforded good sport, +although to make a good bag often involved a fair amount of walking. Don +Alejandro was fond of shooting, besides being well above an average +shot. I sometimes made up a third and, although the same could certainly +not be said of me, yet sometimes I was more successful than I had any +reason to expect. Mr. Jardine liked to shoot two or three days a week +during the winter, so that opportunity to improve was not lacking. The +quail, although inferior both in size and flavour to an English +partridge, were a pleasant change of diet, and made an excellent curry, +both for breakfast or dinner, a dish which was always much appreciated. +A few days later, poor little Peter contracted a somewhat severe chill, +and as on the next day he seemed worse rather than better, and his +mother was anxious about him, I offered to ride in to San José to get +him a supply of medicine, and also to execute some other little +commissions which were needed, so I saddled up "Carnival" soon after +mid-day and reached the town a little before four o'clock. I finished +the shopping I had to do, and then took the opportunity of making my +call upon Don Carlos Mendoza, the new Gefè Politico at his town +residence, facing the "plaza," or square. On reaching the house, I sent +in my name, and was at once admitted. Don Carlos received me in his own +room, and as I entered rose to greet me, and expressed his pleasure at +making my acquaintance. He was a short man, apparently about forty years +of age with an alert manner, and a very pleasant expression. "Colonel +Antonio Martinez wrote to me about you," he said with a smile. "He is +'muy amigo mio,' 'a great friend of mine,' and is now holding a rather +important appointment in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs." After a few +minutes' conversation, he took me into the "sala," where he presented me +to his Señora, a stately-looking lady, who, I afterwards learned, was a +member of one of the oldest Spanish families in Monte Video. Five +minutes later a pretty-looking girl, who might be about fourteen, +entered the room. The Señora said, "This is my daughter, Carmen, and I +have a son Alfonso, who is younger, and is now away at school." Don +Carlos appeared to be well-acquainted with Europe, having been educated +in Paris and Madrid, and both he and his wife had paid more than one +visit to the French Riviera. The Señora asked me how I liked South +America, and I told her very much, but added, "You see this is the only +year of peace I have known since I came out from England, three years +and a half ago." Meanwhile, coffee and cakes were brought in, and some +delicious liqueur, and half an hour later I made my adieux. Don Carlos +said I must certainly call and see them again, and asking me if I was a +smoker remarked, "Here is a cigar from Habana for you," and accompanying +me to the door, shook hands, saying, "Hasta la vista, Señor" (until we +meet again). + +On reaching the hotel, I had some dinner, and much enjoyed the Habana +cigar, which I knew to be too good a one to light and smoke in the open +street. I went early to bed, with the request that they would call me at +sunrise next morning. This they did, having also prepared me some +coffee. So I saddled up "Carnival," and reached the estancia just before +nine o'clock. I was pleased to hear from Mr. Jardine that Peter was +better, having fortunately passed a good night. One afternoon I and +Ramon Duran had ridden down to look up some cattle not far from Beatty's +puesto. As we were returning he told me there was a big dun-coloured +bull, not bearing the estancia mark, which for some time had taken up +his abode among the "tarlas," at the far end of the camp, within easy +reach of the river bank. He made a constant disturbance among our +cattle, his object no doubt being to cut some of them off, and so get +control over them, and then form a small point of his own. Ramon +suggested that we should lasso him and kill him, and so get rid of the +nuisance once and for all. He asked if I would like to go down and +assist, and I said I should very much. However, we came to the +conclusion it would be better to have three horsemen for the job, so the +matter remained for the moment in abeyance. The next day he told me he +had seen Robert Mackie, a young Scotchman, who had come out to Uruguay +as a boy, and was already something of a camp man, accustomed to +lassoing on the "rodeo," and working amongst cattle, who wished to join +us in our little adventure. He, moreover, described him as "un joven muy +guapo," "a very capable youth," so it was agreed we should all three go +in search of the bull on Saturday afternoon. Ramon was to ride his +favourite "picaso" (a black horse, with a white blaze and two white hind +fetlocks), while Mackie would saddle up a "moro" (or blue roan), which +he often rode, as it was well-trained, and a first-rate horse at that +kind of work. I was to ride my "rosillo," so we were all to be +well-mounted. Our first idea had been that if we came across the bull we +should all three try and get round to the far side of him, with the +object of driving him in among a point of our own cattle, but on +consideration we determined to approach him from the direction we were +ourselves riding, and then by acting quickly and suddenly, try and get a +lasso round him before he had time to reach his favourite woods. We were +riding quietly along, when we made out the bull standing feeding by +himself, quite a long distance inside the camp, and away from the +woods, whereupon we widened out our line into a kind of semi-circle, +Ramon being on the left, with Mackie in the centre, while I took the +right, so that we might approach as near to him as possible without +causing any alarm. This method seemed to answer for, as it happened, we +managed to get closer up to him than we had any reason to expect. +Suddenly, however, up went his head, and he saw us coming, when he +immediately made off as fast as he could. We then followed at full +gallop, and Mackie, who was in the centre, pushed ahead of Ramon and +myself, for the "moro" was a fast horse, and his rider both young and +eager. Running his horse close up behind the bull, he threw his lasso, +the loop of which, instead of going round the horns of the animal, as it +should have done, passed over his head and round his neck, thus giving +the bull a much greater power of purchase than he would otherwise have +had. Then a most unfortunate thing happened. Mackie had his foot out of +the stirrup on the lasso side, which was not by any means unusual, but +he also had his leg rather far forward, and as the coils of the lasso +went out swiftly, owing to the speed at which the bull was now running, +one of them caught his right leg, entangling it just below the knee. It +was now a question of speed between the horse and the bull, with a man's +life hanging in the balance. Ramon and I could do nothing, for if either +of us pressed forward we should only help to increase the speed of the +bull. So we both slowed down, edging off one to the left and the other +to the right, which was the only thing to do. Fortunately, the "moro" +rose to the occasion. He never made a mistake, in spite of the ground +being rough and uneven, but shooting forward at an increased speed, he +enabled Mackie to get his leg free from the coil of the lasso, and so +saved the situation. Ramon had called to Mackie to take out his knife +from its sheath and cut the lasso, but when he put his hand behind him +both knife and sheath had fallen from his belt during the gallop. Now +Mackie was able to bring purchase, with his lasso, to bear upon the +bull, who was also by this time getting a bit pumped, and compelled to +slacken his speed, so that in a couple of hundred yards more he was able +to bring him to a standstill. Ramon now came up and threw his lasso +round the bull's hind legs, when both the lassos straining at the same +time, and in opposite directions, the bull, now completely mastered, was +compelled to fall helpless to the ground. Ramon then dismounted his +"picaso," still carefully keeping up the strain of the lasso, as a good +horse is trained to do, and taking out his knife from his belt gave the +bull his "coup de grâce." Mackie and Ramon were not long in taking off +the hide, which they slung across the back of the "moro," behind +Mackie's recado, when we returned quietly to the estancia, reaching it +just after five o'clock. + +Winter had now come, bringing with it continued bad weather, accompanied +by cold winds and constant showers of heavy rain. This went on more or +less until the third week in June, when it cleared up; but the beginning +of July ushered in rain heavier than before, the river overflowed its +banks, and low-lying land was mostly covered with water. Fortunately, at +La Esperanza, there was plenty of higher ground for stock to feed on, +for the constant rain day after day, so filled the "banyados," usually +quite small pieces of water, that they developed into something much +more like an inland sea, flooding all the surrounding land for a foot +deep, and in some places even more. The cattle were well able to look +after themselves, but as the floods increased considerable care was +necessary to keep the sheep from being surrounded by water, for when +danger threatens they are stupid animals, easily frightened, and apt to +get drowned. The bad weather continued until the middle of July, +moderating during the third week, although still very unsettled. +However, on the morning of the twenty-fifth, I started to ride to Colla, +to receive a considerable sum of money which was owing to the estancia. +Mr. Jardine wished me to take his "rosillo alazan" (or chestnut roan), a +good horse, above the ordinary height, which he said would help to keep +me out of the mud. The morning was fine, and I made an early start, for +I wished to reach my destination without delay. Instead of using my +"recado," I put the saddle which had been given as a prize at the +Christmas race on the "rosillo," this being the kind to which he was +accustomed. The river alongside the estancia had mostly run down, but +when I reached the "Cufré," I found it more or less in flood. As, +however, the water only reached up to the flaps of the saddle, I got +across quite dry, always a comfort when travelling on horseback. The +horse carried me well, and I reached Colla about three o'clock in the +afternoon, the track being less soft and slippery than I expected. I put +up at the Hotel de la Paz (Hotel of Peace), and then went out to receive +the sum of money for which I had come. It was all in paper notes, some +of them very dilapidated, and I was obliged to look them over carefully +to assure myself they were all good currency. This reminded me of a +little incident which had once happened to me when paying an account. +The man receiving it was a native in good circumstances, but he could +neither read or write. As I handed over a bundle of notes to him he +said, "El buey es bueno pero la oveja no vale por nada," "The bullock is +good, but the sheep is worth nothing," referring to the pictures of the +animals printed on the notes I was about to pay him. To him nothing +else mattered. Having given a receipt for the money, I rolled up the +notes and put them into the large pockets of my carpincho skin belt, and +when I got into the street, I took out my revolver, just to see that it +was all right. I then returned to the hotel to see my horse was +comfortable, had some supper, and went early to bed. It was then fine, +with a young moon shining brightly, but I had not long got off to sleep +when I was awakened by a loud banging and knocking at my door. Thinking +it might be someone come after the money, I first got hold of my +revolver, before going to see, but it was nothing more than a visitor +who had been drinking too much wine and failed to find his proper +bedroom. It somehow seemed to me that the name of the hotel did not +clearly describe its character. I awoke to find the sky dull and cloudy, +and a very cold wind blowing from the south. I succeeded in getting some +hot coffee, with bread and butter. I then saddled up, paid my bill, and +made a start. When I got away from the town, I found the track very +muddy and slippery. The "rosillo" was a good horse, who could pick his +way carefully, and I was obliged to travel slowly. As I passed along, +the country on either side looked dreary and desolate. Such cattle as I +saw stood grouped with their backs to the cold wind, while the sheep +were mostly huddled together, their fleeces wet and sodden with the +rain. When I reached the river Cufré, I found the water high and +swollen, having evidently come down a good deal during the night. I +entered it as far up the bank as the pass would permit, so as to leave +me as much room as possible to land on the other side, in case the water +should be deeper in the middle than I expected. This turned out to be +the case, for my horse lost his feet for a moment, gave a violent +plunge, and I got wet through right up to my waist. However, he was not +really nervous, and recovering himself, succeeding in making a landing a +little lower down, so that we both reached the opposite side with +nothing worse than a bit of a ducking. My first thought was about the +money. My "carpincho" skin belt, which contained it was, of course, +having been under water, soaked through and through; it was all in paper +notes, many of them much worn and dilapidated, and I knew if I left them +where they were they would soon turn into pulp, and become quite +worthless. Moreover, to make things worse, it all of a sudden commenced +to rain. Looking round, about half a mile distant on some higher ground +to the right, I saw what appeared to be a small place belonging to a +native. There were only two or three mud ranchos, with half a dozen +poplar trees standing near them, but from one of the low chimneys I saw +smoke rising. I thereupon determined to make straight for it, and see if +I could get permission to dry the notes by the fire. It was not a very +pleasant idea, as I was, of course, quite ignorant as to who might be +inside, and my revolver, in case I were attacked for the sake of the +somewhat large sum of money I carried, was now probably useless, owing +to having been so saturated with water. However, I made up my mind to +take the risk, and rode up. A dog barked loudly as usual, and a dark, +middle-aged woman came to the door. I told her what had happened, and +asked permission to dry the notes, saying I should be glad to pay for +the use of the fire. To this she kindly agreed; indeed, from her manner +I thought she seemed sorry for the plight in which I found myself. "You +seem very wet, Señor," she said, "would you not like to dry some of your +clothes as well?" I thanked her, but declined, saying they did not +matter, as I wished to continue my journey without unnecessary delay, +but I asked if I might lay my revolver down by the side of the fire as +I feared it might be a bit damp, in case I should happen to need it +before reaching home, for I had a good long way to go, and it might get +dark. She smiled at this, and said I was fortunate to have come up to +the house when I did, for only half an hour before three native Gauchos +had ridden away, all fully armed, and two of them, she remarked, would +murder anyone with any money as soon as look at them, for they were +notorious bad characters, and had been in the hands of the police more +than once already, supposed to have been connected with something of the +kind. While she was talking, I succeeded in getting the notes fairly +dry, and rolled them up in my pocket handkerchief, and placed them +carefully in the large inside breast pocket of my jacket which, however, +was scarcely big enough to hold them, but I was able to manage it by +packing them tightly together, and now they were once more dry this did +not matter. I realised it would have been more prudent to have done this +before I entered the river. One is always apt to think of things only +when it is too late! I thanked the woman for what she had done for me, +and gave her a small present. "Muchas gracias Señor y adios" (many +thanks, Sir, and good-bye). "Keep a sharp look-out on anyone you may +happen to meet," she said, as I remounted and rode away. Fortunately, +the rain had now ceased, and even a gleam of cold and fitful sunshine +seemed every now and then to struggle to make itself felt at the edge of +a heavy cloud. The track was extremely muddy, and slippery, but the +"rosillo" took it all in good part, for he well knew he was going home. +When we came to our own river, next to the estancia, I found it +considerably higher than on the previous day, but we managed to get +across all right, and I rode up to the house as the cold afternoon was +passing, and the winter light was just beginning to fade. + +One morning at breakfast, early in August, Mr. Jardine told us he had +heard from Mr. Herbert Fraser, and his brother Frederick, two young +Englishmen, now staying in Monte Video, where they had broken their +journey for a time, their intention being to go on by sea to Valparaiso, +through the Straits of Magellan. They had brought letters of +introduction to him from England, and he proposed to invite them out to +La Esperanza for a short visit, so that they might have a little +shooting. They arrived during the week following by diligence at San +José, and the carriage was sent in there to bring them on to the +estancia. They brought their own guns and cartridges with them, and +seemed keen about sport. They were the type of young men with ample +means to be found travelling for pleasure, not quite knowing at any +particular time what they would do next. The morning after they arrived +we drove in the wagonette to the end of some large swamps, on one side +of the estate, with a boy in attendance to look after the horses, and on +reaching the first lagoon we sent the Frasers to the further end, Mr. +Dampier and I wading among the reeds along either side, with two men in +the centre acting as beaters. The water generally did not come above our +knees, but the thick weeds caused slow progress. There are three sorts +of duck, the native names for which are the "picaso," the "baroso," and +the "ovaro" duck. The first is the largest, with handsome black and +white plumage, the "baroso" is a description of pintail, male and female +being of a uniform brown colour, with yellow bills. The "ovaro" duck, +known for its beautiful variegated plumage, is not nearly so common as +the other two. It is also very wary, but when bagged is the best for the +table. First rose half a dozen "picaso" ducks, and Mr. Dampier and I +each getting a shot, one fell to each barrel. Next came a brace of +teal, both easy shots, which I missed badly, but my companion brought +down his bird. A flight of "barosos" came flying cross ways, but +wheeling round, passed over the heads of the Frasers at the farther end, +who brought down three of them in first-rate style. A little further on +a pair of swans rose hurriedly, out of range for us, but although a long +shot, one fell to our friend's gun, tumbling into the water with a +tremendous splash. We then shot over some grass land for partridge, +walking in line and beating them up, and in less than two hours we +bagged nine brace. We afterwards went on to two of the other lagoons, +where we met with success, so we drove home well-contented with our +day's sport. Among the larger birds the ostrich merits the first place. +It is not a true ostrich, but a "rhea," and its feathers and plumes are +comparatively but of small value. Of large waders, several species of +herons are found. Storks and the little egret are common, while the rosy +spoon-bill and flamingo, although very shy, are seen occasionally. There +are two kinds of eagle, and many different species of hawk. Snipe are +plentiful during the winter months, being found in swampy lagoons and +small streams; they are usually fat, and excellent eating. There are two +kinds of teal, a blue and a brown, both of which are abundant. Golden +plover and sandpipers abound, and as you ride along the spur-winged +plover, or "pteru-pteru" rises with its shrill cry, and wheels round and +round over one's head. Quite a number of small birds inhabit the +country, and the plumage of some of them is very beautiful. There is the +scissor-bird, with its curious tail; the oven-bird, which will make a +round nest of mud, often as large as a man's head, on the top of a +gatepost, quite close to a house where people are constantly passing; +and others, with all the varying shades of yellow and black. Large +flocks of the small green grey-breasted parakeet take up their abode in +the woods, and make the whole place resound with their chatterings. A +species of wood-dove is also very common, and affords good sport. +Amongst the numerous spiders is the "tarantula," which is alarming, and +its bite venomous, also another equally large grey spider, which is very +pugnacious, and will jump up at you when disturbed. There is also a +minute insect of the nature of a harvest-bug, called the "bicho +colorado" (or red insect), which abounds during hot weather in summer, +but disappears during the winter, and when the temperature is cold. It +is a great nuisance, burying itself in one's skin, and causing great +itching and irritation, and often producing sores on the human body by +no means easy to heal. Mosquitos and flies of course are numerous, +particularly near woods, and especially near water. There are several +kinds of snakes, amongst them the coral snake, which is venomous, and a +pretty little green snake, which hangs by its tail from the branches of +a tree, so exactly like the green pod of a flowering creeper that it is +difficult to tell one from the other. The Frasers stayed a fortnight at +La Esperanza, getting several days' good shooting. They then returned to +Monte Video, apparently well pleased with their visit. + +September had now come, the sunny spring-time of the Southern +Hemisphere. It was more than a year since I left the Pichinango, and I +made up my mind to return to England. When I bade good-bye to Mr. +Treherne at San José, he told me to be sure and write and let him know +whenever I should think of doing so, as he thought it would be a great +pity were I to leave South America without seeing Buenos Aires. So I +wrote him a letter to say I should be leaving La Esperanza towards the +end of the month, with the intention of taking my passage in some +steamer, leaving shortly for Europe. About ten days later, I received a +reply suggesting that I should pay him a few days' visit at his quinta, +(or villa, with a garden), situate in the then outskirts of Buenos +Aires, and fix the day of my arrival just as I might find to be most +convenient. I wrote at once to say what pleasure it gave me to take +advantage of his kind proposal, promising to write again when I could +tell him exactly when I hoped to arrive. He also mentioned that the +S.S. "Dido" would be leaving Buenos Aires on or about October +11th, in case I should think her a likely ship to suit me. On the Monday +following I rode "Carnival" in to San Josè, and I took the opportunity +to call again upon Don Carlos Mendoza, whom I was fortunate enough to +find at home. We had some interesting conversation as to the prospects +of the new Blanco Government, and the future of the country, and when we +parted he expressed the hope that some day or somewhere he might have +the pleasure of seeing me again. He was a nice man, and gave me the +impression of being intellectual and cultivated, and I felt very glad to +have had the pleasure of making his acquaintance. Colonel Gonzales and +his two daughters were away paying a visit to their estancia. I got back +in good time next morning, for "Carnival" carried me well. He was a +good, reliable horse, and I felt sorry to think my rides on him were so +soon to come to an end. I now fixed up my plans for departure, and wrote +again to Mr. Treherne that I expected to leave La Esperanza on Tuesday, +September 28th, for San Josè, go on from there by diligence to Monte +Video, and travel by what was known as the river steamer, on the last +evening of the month, arriving at Buenos Aires early the following +morning. The first thing I did was to send my "rosillo," whom I had with +me during the war, back again to the Pichinango, where for some years he +led a pleasant, easy life, and ultimately died at a good old age Mr. +Jardine said he should like to have "Carnival," and that he would take +good care of him. For this I was glad, for I felt sure the horse would +suit him in every way. I gave my dog "Napoleon" to Ramon Duran, who +promised to treat him well. He was first-rate with cattle, and I wished +him to go where he would be appreciated. Meanwhile, I sent my luggage to +the Hotel Oriental in a cart which was going out to San Josè, keeping +only what I could easily carry on horseback. When the day came to say +good-bye, I thanked them all for their kindness and for having done so +much to make my stay at La Esperanza such a pleasant one. Early in the +afternoon I saddled up the grey, taking a boy on another horse with me +to bring him back. And so ended a year which will always be to me a very +enjoyable recollection. It was a fine afternoon, and as we rode quietly +along the sun felt quite warm, so that we did not reach the hotel until +just about five o'clock. I found my belongings there waiting for me, and +not long afterwards the diligence arrived from Paysandu. It had come in +somewhat earlier than usual, for the roads were now good, and probably +the team of horses which were being quickly taken out, were better than +usual. Immediately afterwards dinner was served. I chose a quiet seat, +and sat on for a while just to smoke a contemplative pipe with my +coffee, and to ponder over the events of the day. I had been very happy +at La Esperanza, and one cannot help feeling regret when an agreeable +time has come to an end. I then went to bed, instructing them to call me +the first thing in the morning. I was up betimes, and able to see the +boy start back to the estancia with the horses, and also to see to my +things before the horses were harnessed up to the diligence, and all +ready for a start. There were only half a dozen passengers, so there was +plenty of room, and we rolled and rumbled along much as we had done now +nearly four years previously, when I went out to Guaycoru to stay with +my friend, Robert Royd, at Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo, little knowing all +that lay before me. When we reached Monte Video, I made my way to the +Hotel Oriental, feeling somewhat weary and tired, but a good sleep was +all that was needed to make me feel completely restored. I had a little +business to attend to during the day, and the late afternoon found me on +board the river steamer, soon about to get under weigh, with her bows +heading in the direction of Buenos Aires. It was more or less a twelve +hours' run, and I came on deck next morning to find we were just about +to let go our anchor; although still some distance from the shore. There +were various methods of landing at the port of Buenos Aires in the good +old days. The big ocean steamers lay at anchor in the estuary, from +eight to ten miles distant from the land. Passengers were passed first +into a tug, then into an open boat, whence they sometimes had to be +shifted into a cart; indeed, it was not uncommon to carry them ashore on +men's backs. However, a small steam launch came alongside and took the +passengers aboard, afterwards transferring us to an open boat, so we +reached the landing-place quite comfortably. I then got a carriage, +which carried me and my belongings on to "Bella Vista," that being the +name of Mr. Treherne's quinta. He came to meet me as I drove up, with a +very kindly welcome and many enquiries after Mr. and Mrs. Jardine and +all at La Esperanza. It was a roomy, comfortable house, with two wide +verandahs, facing north and west. The garden was just entering upon its +spring beauty, and would soon be a blaze of colour. The mimosa trees +were just coming into flower, as also the paradise trees, with their +purple blossom. That of the wistaria was already out, hanging in +profusion all along the verandah, while a little further away was a +long low hedge, thickly covered with "plumbago," and here and there a +pomegranate. There were several kinds of palms and flowering cacti, and +on the house itself was a magnificent magnolia, already covered with +buds. The rose trees were an especial care, and some were even now +beginning to flower. Moreover, there was provision for ample watering +during hot weather. Breakfast was served at 11.30 in the wide verandah. +Early in the afternoon my host took me into the town. I went first to +the shipping office, and was afterwards to meet him at the "Strangers' +Club," where he kindly said he would introduce me. I found the +S.S. "Dido" to be a steamer of moderate size, bound for +Antwerp, calling at Rio de Janeiro and Lisbon, and also at Southampton, +to land her English passengers. She did not carry many, but hearing she +was well-found, and reputed to be a good sea-boat, and finding a +comfortable cabin was at disposal, I at once decided to take my passage +in her. So the whole matter was easily settled. I found the "Club" very +comfortable and well-arranged. Those who knew Buenos Aires at the time +of which I write would indeed wonder at the beautiful city they would +find to-day. The streets were then rough and ill-paved. The drainage was +scanty and bad, and when it rained heavily the water poured like a +torrent down the principal streets. But even then there were beautiful +shops, and well-appointed carriages, with silver-mounted harness, so +beloved of Spaniards, were quite a distinctive feature, and a great +contrast to the rough and, uneven roads over which they were compelled +to travel. The great net-work of railways which now traverses the +republic was then a thing undreamed of, for the Buenos Aires Great +Southern Railway, first among its fellows, then extended but a short +way into the open country. Beyond it the wide "Pampas," the home of the +roving Indian, with troops of wild mares, together with deer and +ostrich, rolled into distance like waves of the sea, stretching one upon +another far away into the great unknown. My visit proved agreeable, and +I felt sorry when it came to an end. However, on Saturday, I was +informed that the S.S. "Dido" had to pick up a late consignment +of cargo at Monte Video, and would not leave Buenos Aires until late on +Monday afternoon. Further, that the tug which was to take passengers on +board, would leave the landing stage punctually at three o'clock, on +October 11th. Mr. Treherne went with me to the place of embarkation, and +we were both ready waiting there nearly half an hour before the +appointed time. The tide was favourable, and there happened to be plenty +of water. All was now ready to shove off, so I said good-bye to my host, +with many thanks for his kindness, stepped on board the tug, and we at +once got under weigh. The afternoon was beautifully fine as we hauled up +alongside the steamer, which, her blue Peter flying at the fore, was due +to reach Monte Video at daylight on the following morning. Dinner was +served in the saloon at five o'clock. We were then steaming along in +smooth water, so everything was steady. There were five passengers for +Southampton besides myself. One of them, Mr. Philip Payne, took his seat +beside me at table. He was a young man, perhaps a little older than I +was, of middle height, with an active figure, with light brown hair, and +grey eyes. I found out he was the son of a country clergyman and, after +learning a little farming in England, had come out to South America with +the well-known Henley Colony. When this undertaking, owing to Indian +raids, and other circumstances, turned out to be a complete failure, he +went round to Chile, through the Straits of Magellan, and at the end of +the previous summer had come back again to Argentina, across the Andes, +on mules, with a troop of Indians, then considered to be something of an +adventure. When I came on deck next morning, a lighter, with cargo was +already alongside, and the city of Monte Video lay glistening in the +bright sunshine, much as I first saw it four years ago. I did not go +ashore, for we were due to leave soon after mid-day, and the early +afternoon found us again under easy steam, with a light breeze and a +calm sea, and the ship's head pointing northwards. I now made the +acquaintance of the other four passengers, a Mr. and Mrs. West, with +their son Herbert, aged fourteen, and daughter Rose, a girl of ten. He +told me he was an engineer by profession, and had come out to Argentina +in delicate health, hoping the climate might benefit him, and that he +might obtain suitable employment. Neither of these had been fulfilled, +and I felt sorry to see him returning to England after a time which must +have been to them one of disappointment. Mrs. West, too, looked anything +but strong. Their son Herbert, was lame, having had a somewhat serious +accident to his hip, but his parents hoped that if he went under proper +treatment in England the difficulty would be overcome. Four days later, +early in the morning, land was sighted, and by eight o'clock we were +passing beneath the famous "Sugar Loaf," a high, conical-shaped hill, +which guards the entrance to Rio de Janeiro. As we steamed slowly up to +our anchorage the city lay to the left, its houses rising tier after +tier up the hillsides, the whole overshadowed by the great "Corcovado," +a mountain which lay behind. To the right the magnificent harbour, with +many a beautiful island and many a beautiful bay, stretched some ten +miles southward towards "Petropolis." We were not due to sail until +evening, so Payne and I had ample time to go on shore. We first amused +ourselves walking through the town and making some purchases at the +famous feather flower shop in the Rua d'Ouvidor. We then took the +tramway and drove out to see the wonderful Avenue of Palms, supposed to +be perhaps one of the finest in the world. Gay plumaged birds were +flying to and fro, and bright coloured butterflies were hovering hither +and thither, as we slowly walked between the long line of beautiful +trees, the lovely plumes of which, as they hung down in clusters, fairly +shimmered in the hot sunshine of that early afternoon. We got back on +board soon after four o'clock, both of us ready for a wash and brush up, +and for dinner when the bell rang. The sun had already set as the +S.S. "Dido" was fast getting clear of the land, and I stood on +deck and watched the shadows of the distant mountains in the fading +light, and I realised I was now taking my last look at South America. +Four Brazilian passengers had embarked at Rio de Janeiro for Lisbon, for +which port we had also taken in a certain amount of cargo. We had fine +weather and a good voyage, sighting land on November 8th, and passing up +the Tagus soon after nine o'clock. We let go our anchor lower down the +river than we might have done, and at some distance from the town. +Lighters at once came alongside to take off the cargo, and the four +Brazilian passengers were landed in the agents' boat. All this took +place with very little delay. Indeed, our captain wished to get to sea +again as soon as possible. So neither Payne nor I thought it worth while +to go ashore. We got under weigh soon after three o'clock, and it was +not long before a thick fog came on, which compelled us to slow down. +Later in the evening the fog grew thicker, so that the ship had to be +stopped for a time, and all through the night we made very slow +progress. The following day the fog came on again, even thicker than +before, but cleared towards evening, so that we could proceed on our +course something under half speed. The morning of Wednesday was again +foggy, clearing towards the afternoon, but the sky remained heavy and +overhung with thick cloud, so that no observation could be obtained, and +the ship had be navigated only by dead reckoning. The West family seemed +very depressed, but my friend and I were accustomed to difficulties, and +we made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would permit. The two +following days the sun was again obscured by cloud, but we were able to +go ahead full speed. On Saturday evening the captain considered we might +be somewhere abreast of Ushant, but here we fell into what are known in +the Channel as thick belts of fog. These are always very confusing and +misleading, as the thick mist comes down like a curtain, enveloping +everything, and rising and falling very rapidly. The ship had constantly +to stop, and never could steam more than four knots an hour, and very +often less. These conditions prevailed during Sunday, and we crept along +gradually, as it were, feeling our way. Every precaution was taken, a +sharp look-out was kept forward, a sailor being also stationed in the +fore-top, while two men were continually in the chains, taking the depth +of the water, and the foghorn was kept constantly going as well. About +five o'clock, the dinner bell had just rung, Payne and I were standing +by the port rail, looking over the side, near the after hatchway. A +curtain of fog which had come thickly down was just lifting, when a cry +rang out from the look-out forward, "Breakers ahead." Then came the +order from the captain on the bridge, "_Hard a port!_" A second later +the fog lifted further, and there alongside rose the precipitous rocky +face of the "Bill of Portland." It looked almost as if you could throw a +biscuit ashore. There was no wind, and the sea was gently lapping up +against the base of the high cliff. Payne put his hand on my shoulder, +"Look there," he said, "that is the place to swim for, where you see the +grass growing down almost to the water's edge." In a moment it was all +over, land and sea being once more completely enveloped in fog. +Fortunately the ship had sufficient weigh on her to enable her to answer +her helm, and she at once came round to starboard, when all danger was +past. Mr. and Mrs. West were down in the saloon, and knew nothing of +what had happened, nor did we either of us mention one word about it. We +made slow progress during the night, but when daylight appeared, the sky +was clear, and when I came on deck about nine o'clock, we were just +about to pass inside the "Needles." We then steamed leisurely up the +Solent, the tide was favourable, so that we got alongside the landing +stage, and were able to go ashore soon after eleven. I then bid good-bye +to my friend Payne, and having collected my belongings, got them +conveyed to the railway station, where I took the first train to London, +and so ended my experiences of "Old days among the Gauchos of Uruguay." + + +THE END. + + + + + +-----------------------------------------------+ + | Transcriber's Note: | + | | + | Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the | + | original document have been preserved. | + | | + | Title Page: The tilde over the u in Gauchos | + | is represented like so: Ga[~u]chos | + | | + | Typographical errors corrected in the text: | + | | + | Page 22 soliders changed to soldiers | + | Page 22 spoonsful changed to spoonfuls | + | Page 29 knowledged changed to knowledge | + | Page 59 Dr. changed to Mr. | + | Page 67 lover changed to lower | + | Page 68 fenecs changed to fences | + | Page 70 attentiton changed to attention | + | Page 71 somewhate changed to somewhat | + | Page 76 Dcember changed to December | + | Page 94 Nothting changed to Nothing | + | Page 94 togethed changed to together | + | Page 98 he changed to the | + | Page 101 Gaiten changed to Gaitan | + | Page 115 terrior changed to terrier | + | Page 116 cartmen changed to cartman | + | Page 116 believed changed to believe | + | Page 120 th changed to the | + | Page 135 is changed to in | + | Page 136 in added between standing and each | + | Page 146 workisg changed to working | + | Page 150 wih changed to with | + | Page 156 it in changed to in it | + | Page 167 interefering changed to interfering | + | Page 180 in added between growing and it | + | Page 187 One changed to On | + | Page 189 me changed to we | + | Page 197 waggonette changed to wagonette | + | Page 198 specie changed to species | + | Page 203 allong changed to along | + | Page 204 myslf changed to myself | + +-----------------------------------------------+ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Blanco y Colorado, by William C. 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Tetley + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Blanco y Colorado + Old Days among the Gauchos of Uruguay + +Author: William C. Tetley + +Release Date: June 26, 2011 [EBook #36534] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLANCO Y COLORADO *** + + + + +Produced by Barbara Kosker, Adrian Mastronardi and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h1>BLANCO Y COLORADO</h1> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h1><span class="smcap">Blanco y Colorado</span></h1> + +<h3> OLD DAYS AMONG THE<br /> + GAŨCHOS OF URUGUAY</h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h4> BY</h4> + +<h2> WILLIAM C. TETLEY</h2> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h4> F. R. HOCKLIFFE<br /> + 86 & 88, <span class="smcap">High Street, Bedford</span></h4> + +<h4> LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL,<br /> + HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD.<br /> + 1921</h4> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + +<p>The following pages contain the writer's personal experiences in the +"Republic of Uruguay" during a revolution in what are now known as the +"Old Days."</p> + +<p>If they enable the reader to understand what life in that country really +meant at that time, the object of this book will then be attained.</p> + +<p class="right">W. C. T.</p> +<p class="noin" style="margin-left: 1em;">The Close, Wavendon,<br /> +Woburn Sands,<br /> +Bucks.<br /> +July, 1919.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="60%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="18%"> </td> + <td class="tdl" width="74%"> </td> + <td class="tdr" width="8%" style="font-size: 80%;">PAGE</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap">Part I.</td> + <td class="tdl smcap">Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap">Part II.</td> + <td class="tdl smcap">El Cerro del Pichinango</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap">Part III.</td> + <td class="tdl smcap">La Estancia Esperanza</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_169">169</a></td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>BLANCO Y COLORADO.</h2> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>PART I.</h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo.</span></h3> +<br /> + +<p>The clock of the "Cathedral de la Matrix" was striking ten on a lovely +morning in October, when our signal gun was fired, and the anchor of the +<span class="smcap">s.s.</span> "Copernicus" let go to find bottom in the muddy waters of +La Plata.</p> + +<p>On the right the town of Monte Video, with its whitewashed "azotea," or +flat-roofed houses, glistened in the bright sunshine; to the left the +broad estuary stretched away towards the open sea; while in front of us +the famous Cerro, a gently sloping hill, looked green and fresh and +pleasant after our long sea voyage. The tug which brought off the +Medical Officer of Health did not delay long before coming alongside, +when permission was given to the passengers to land, and I soon found +myself standing with my baggage on the Custom House wharf, and having +duly passed it, made my way to the "Hotel Oriental."</p> + +<p>Here I enquired when a diligence would leave for the interior, which +would take me within reasonable distance of my friend's estancia, whom I +had come out to visit, which I believed to be situate about thirty-three +leagues, or one hundred miles, up country. I was informed that it was to +leave the next morning, but that, as it started from a "fonda," or inn, +outside the town at 5 a.m., it would be necessary to sleep there, +otherwise I should certainly miss it. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>At this time the diligence was +the only public conveyance traversing the country, a railway being as +yet unthought of. So I ordered some dinner at the "Hotel Oriental," and +occupied the interval by having a look round the city. I was much +pleased with the straight, wide streets, running at right angles, by the +size and importance of the public buildings, and by many of the private +houses, often opening on to a "plaza," or square, prettily planted with +trees and flowering shrubs. But I was most impressed by the variety and +beauty of the excellent shops, which I could hardly have expected to +find in a South American town at that time, so remote from Europe. I +also saw more than one of the famous "quintas," or villas, with large +grounds, where semi-tropical flowers can be seen in all their beauty, +and palms and magnolias everywhere flourish.</p> + +<p>I arrived at the inn whence the diligence started at 9 p.m. The +proprietor received me with courtesy, and shewed me my bedroom, which +was small and not very clean; but it had a window opening on the street, +so I could get plenty of air. Some natives were making a noise in the +bar below, where they had doubtless been drinking, and seemed inclined +to quarrel. I gave instructions to be called, and the last thing I heard +as I dropped off to sleep was the cry of the "sereno," or +night-watchman, whose business it was, during the night, to call the +time and state of the weather every half hour. A loud rapping at my door +awoke me in time to look up my baggage and drink some hot coffee, before +a start was made. Dawn was fast breaking in the East as five horses and +three mules were being harnessed up, four abreast, to the old wooden +diligence, which carried the mails and baggage piled on its top, the +passengers sitting facing each other on hard wooden seats inside. In +front, beneath a wooden shelter, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>sat the driver, with room for one +passenger beside him. The diligence was heavily built, with large broad +wooden wheels, and there were no springs. In front rode a native on +horseback, with his lasso made fast to the leading horses, so that he +was able to guide the course of the diligence. His was an office of +importance, and he was called the "quartia dor." The team was evidently +well accustomed to the streets, so we rumbled heavily along, passed +suburb and quinta, until houses became less frequent, and by the end of +the first stage had ceased to appear; and we then saw before us the +rolling plains of Uruguay. A word as to my fellow-passengers. Four were +apparently business men, probably buyers of produce, one of whom spoke +French, and kindly gave me information as we went along. The fifth was +an officer, in a lieutenant's uniform. Reaching the end of our first +stage, we found another team shut up in a yard, waiting. This time they +were all horses, diverse in colour, wilder, and more spirited than the +others. But they were soon harnessed up, and we quickly got under weigh, +the driver now increasing our speed. As we descended a decline we went +mostly at full gallop, to get across the mud in the stream at the +bottom, and so have a good impetus for the rise on the other side, the +old diligence, which had seen much service, swaying and rolling like a +ship in a sea-way. By eleven o'clock we reached Santa Lucia, then only a +village, with one so-called hotel, and a straggling street of native +huts. Here we waited for an hour for breakfast: meat, boiled and roast, +with vegetables; bread, cheese, and coffee, which we much appreciated. +Then, with four new passengers and a fresh team of horses, we made a +start for the town of San José, where we were to stop for the night. As +we proceeded, the country opened out before us on every side, the +rolling plain, with here and there a clump <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>of trees to mark some native +estancia, where a flock of sheep, and also cattle, could be seen feeding +in absolute freedom, for there were no fences or divisions of any kind, +neither was there anything in the way of cultivation. Occasionally a +native came into view, galloping after a troop of horses, his poncho +fluttering in the wind, and then, as he passed over a roll of the plain, +like some phantom, would seem to disappear. The afternoon was drawing to +a close when we saw far in front of us the golden rays of the now +fast-declining sun reflected on the cupola of the large church, flanking +the principal square of the country town of San José. Gradually the +houses rise up on the horizon, and half an hour later we drive up with +the usual flourish in front of the "Hotel Oriental." It was apparently +an old house, situate in the main street. We dined in a long low room, +with the addition of soup and a sweet, much as we had breakfasted. +Within its walls more than one murder had been planned, and many a +political "cabale" concocted; indeed, I was told that at the very table +where I sat an officer was dining with some boon companions. When +sipping their coffee he turned to them and said, "Tengo rabia voy à +matar un Gringo," "I feel in a rage, I am going to kill a foreigner." He +went straight out, and turning up the street, met an Italian stonemason +returning home from work. He pierced him through with his sword, and, +walking off to where he had left his horse, mounted, and rode away. The +poor man died, but the matter was hushed up, and nothing more was heard +about it. I soon went to bed, feeling tired, and my limbs ached from the +bumping and confinement of the diligence for so many hours.</p> + +<p>In the morning we started early. The sun was just rising above the +horizon as we left the outskirts of San José, and made for the open +plain, unbroken, save by the dull grey line which alone seemed to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>mark +the "camino real," or Government road. At eleven o'clock we stopped at a +pulperia, or store, for some breakfast, and for fresh horses, which were +ready waiting for us. They were a wilder lot this time, and a chestnut +and a piebald especially gave trouble, at first refusing to be +harnessed. Once started, however, they had nothing for it but to settle +down, aided by a free application of the driver's whip. Just before two +o'clock we reached Guaycoru, where my journey by diligence ended; this +being the nearest point to my friend's estancia. Gathering together my +saddle, bridle and light baggage, I entered the pulperia, or store, to +enquire in what direction my friend's estancia lay, and how far off it +was. The pulpero, or storekeeper, fortunately could speak a little +French, which was a great help. He was very polite, pointed out the +direction, saying it was only between five and six miles distant, and +was situate at the far end of some rocky country which stretched out +before us. He offered to supply me with a couple of horses, one for +myself and another for my baggage, and to send a rather +ruffianly-looking mulatto, half Spanish and half negro, his face badly +pitted with small pox, to act as guide, and also to bring back the +horses. He soon appeared with a bay, a grey, and a piebald, and I at +once occupied myself fitting my saddle and bridle on the former, and not +apparently to his satisfaction. The headstall of the bridle was too +long, the girths of the saddle too short; but at last I got them to +meet, and, slinging my belongings over the back of the piebald and +mounting his grey, my attendant made a start, and I followed a few paces +behind. Our departure being watched with great interest by the pulpero +and his family. We had not gone far when we got in among the rocks, or +"sierras," as they were called, lying in long large masses, not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>very +high except in places; although, often rising well above one's head as +you rode along through the breaks between. Owing to the shelter thus +afforded, this district was noted as being the resort of robbers. The +lay of the land favoured these gentlemen, as they could easily hide both +their horses and themselves among the rocks during the day, and then go +out with the moon at night to kill a young cow, or steal a horse, as +their fancy took them. They were not a pleasant lot to have to do with, +and I could see that my not understanding Spanish alone prevented my +dark-skinned guide from duly expatiating upon the dangers of the road. +Meanwhile, the sun was declining, and there was no wind. You could +hardly hear a sound, and a weird creepy kind of feeling came over me as +we entered a passage between two large rocks, higher and steeper than +hitherto, which seemed to twist and turn so that I could not help +wondering when and where we were going to come out. Every now and then +we came across a few cattle, which made off hurriedly as we approached, +and when we happened to see a horse or two they instantly got out of +sight round some turn of the rocks, evidently well-known to them, but +which seemed to me an all but impossible path. And so we kept jogging +along, until the rocks got smaller and fewer, and at length we came out +into a piece of open country, where a large flock of sheep were quietly +grazing, their faces apparently set, as their custom is at eventide, +towards home. About half a mile in front of us was the estancia whither +we were bound, quiet and peaceful as I first saw it in the rays of the +now setting sun. An azotea, or flat-roofed house, whitewashed outside; +near it two large "ombus," a tree much valued for its shade; to the left +three or four "ranchos," or huts, the walls of mud, the roofs of a reed +called "paja"; on one side a yard for sheep, and on the other a large +corral, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>in which to shut in horses and cattle; it did not look +imposing, but I saw it all with interest as being for me a resting +place, and with pleasure, for I had now reached the end of my long +journey. My friend, Robert Royd, saw me riding up, and came out to +welcome me. He had a fall from his horse, and sprained his knee, so was +prevented coming in to Monte Video to meet me, as he had hoped to do. I +was glad to see him again. I had known him in England when life held out +a different prospect for him, and we had neither of us heard of Uruguay. +How he came to be located at Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo he could hardly +have told you himself. He went out for a voyage to Monte Video, took a +fancy to the country and its climate, and to the open-air life, made up +his mind to set up as an estanciero in a small way, and here he was. I +had now to make the acquaintance of another person, Mr. Henry Marsh, +called by the natives Henriquez. He had exchanged life in a merchant's +office in London for a similar position in Mexico, where he had met with +misfortune. He had drifted down the coast, first to Pernambuco, and +afterwards to Monte Video, where he at length found himself without +money or friends. Royd happened to come across him, and taking a fancy +to him, brought him up country to look after a flock of sheep. He was a +pleasant little man, a regular cockney through and through. He became +somewhat plaintive whenever he talked of the past, and was apt to be +nervous and over-anxious; but he was willing and obliging, and always +glad to help in any way he could. He professed to understand and rather +to like Spaniards, but he was really in mortal fear of a native, and he +never went out far without a large revolver, and also a big knife stuck +in his belt behind, neither of which formidable weapons would he have +been at all willing to use. When I arrived, a Frenchman, whom we called +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>Pedro, was acting as cook. He was not at all fond of soap and water, nor +did he take much pride in the culinary art, for he apparently gave us an +endless succession of mutton chops. But however early you wanted to make +a start in the morning, he was always ready with hot coffee, and would +get you some food at almost any hour of the day. So as our movements +were often erratic, there were compensations. A native "peon," or +servant, and a boy to get up horses, completed the establishment. As +regards the stock, there were the flock of sheep before mentioned, about +nine hundred in number, and another larger one of about fifteen hundred, +towards the other end of the estancia, at a "puesto," as it was called +in the direction, but to the West of the pulperia of Guaycoru, where I +had first arrived in the diligence. The country was open there, being +outside the "sierras," and a young Englishman called Charles Bent had +arranged to take charge of this flock not long before I came upon the +scene. He was a nice young fellow, with fair hair and blue eyes. He had +a quick temper, but a kind heart. Having learnt farming in England in +the usual kind of way, he came out to Uruguay. He had some capital, +which he invested in sheep, and renting land up towards the Rio Negro, +started on his own account. But he was without South American +experience, and he had also bad luck: many of his sheep were stolen, +others died of disease, and after about three years his money had +vanished, and he was compelled, like others, to earn his living; so he +took to the usual occupation of looking after a flock of sheep. He was +always tidy and neat in appearance, and had a nice sheep dog, called +"Bob," which he had brought with him from England, then little more than +a puppy, of which he was very fond. There were seven hundred head of +cattle on the place, which fed in a semi-wild state among the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>rocks, on +a stretch of country some three and a half miles long, and half to +three-quarters of a mile broad, known as the estancia; as also did a +troop of mares and colts, mostly pretty wild. These latter were often +difficult to come across, and to run them up into the stone enclosure, +or "manga," near the house was no easy matter. We had seventeen riding +horses of varied quality, mostly brought up into the wooden corral near +the house every morning, so that we might each catch up a horse for the +needs of the day. The cattle were very apt to stray outside the boundary +of the estancia, and so get mixed up with those belonging to neighbours, +often causing annoyance. This was much more the case on the Eastern than +on the Western boundary, which was fortunate, as the natives living on +that side were not only more friendly, but had better places themselves, +and were therefore able to give us more help in keeping the cattle +apart. On the Western side the rocks became ever a greater feature of +the landscape, with but little open land between, thus forming a +suitable resort for "matreros," <i>i.e.</i>, people in hiding, of doubtful +reputation, with no character whatever to lose. Here was where we had +reason to apprehend trouble, should a revolution break out. We each took +a turn to "repuntar," or drive in the cattle, which fed together in +groups, and the same thing took place with the mares and colts. They +also had to be continually turned inwards, and gathered up every now and +again into the "manga," or stone enclosure to be looked over. When you +had been some time at this work, it was wonderful how keen your eyesight +became, and how it adapted itself to your needs. For instance, you could +make out cattle and horses at a distance, when the ordinary observer +would hardly know they were animals at all. Moreover, your eye became +accustomed to tell you whether they were your own or your neighbour's, +by <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>their manner of feeding when grouped, their apparent number, and +their behaviour when disturbed. Early morning and late afternoon was the +time for this work, especially in warm weather, as both horses and +cattle were glad to take advantage of the shelter of the high rocks +during the heat of the day. We had three dogs, which helped us greatly, +as they yelped and barked and chased the cattle to their heart's +content. I rather took to this work; there was a kind of excitement +about it, as you never quite knew whom you were likely to come across, +or what was likely to happen before you got home. At evening, too, if +you chanced to be late, there was a certain weirdness about it all: the +huge masses of rock casting their grey shadows as the sun fell towards +the horizon, and then when it had fully set, a great silence seemed to +fall upon everything. Scarcely a sound could be heard in any direction. +The "pteru-pteru," or wild plover, ceased his shrill cry, and both bird +and beast, active during daylight, quietly sought their rest. Not so, +however, those of the night, for when the short twilight was over, and +darkness had fairly set in you could hear strange sounds and noises, as +if something or other was at work, never seen nor heard during the day, +and the short bark of the wild fox would sound out sharp and clear as he +sallied forth in search of his prey. Then, indeed, you feel truly glad +when the welcome light of the estancia house tells you that you are +nearly home. Your horse, too, knows that he is near, that his work for +that day at any rate, is done, and he looks joyfully forward to joining +his companions, and to a peaceful time till morning. It was usual, once +a week, to gather up all the cattle together upon a spot selected for +that purpose, where a high post is fixed in the ground, around which +when collected the cattle revolve. Upon such an occasion, those who had +furthest to go were on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>horseback soon after dawn, each taking an +appointed route, and as he returned driving the cattle in front of him. +On this estancia there were special difficulties to contend with, as the +high masses of rock enabled here and there a point of cattle to break +back unseen, or if you did see them, probably it was at a place where it +was difficult to follow them. But the horses were truly wonderful, as +they carried you at a gallop over the rocky and uneven ground. They +seldom made a mistake; bred among the sierras, they were quite at home +there, and you soon learnt to give them their head, and to trust that +all would be well. With us this weekly gathering together of the cattle +never seemed entirely satisfactory. They never came up together all at +one time. One portion or another seemed always to be missing. The long, +narrow position of the estancia, and its rough and rocky character +probably accounted for this. Moreover, we were always short-handed, and +we could not keep any consecutive line as is done in more open country. +This was therefore a day of disappointment, and we could not help +fearing some of the cattle had been stolen; certainly we did not know +where to find them. Royd took this a good deal to heart, for when he +bought the herd this trouble had not been anticipated. The fact was the +cattle had got rather out of hand, and we also feared animals were being +killed on the camp, by "matreros," or fugitive soldiers, of whose +existence in the district we were at the time unaware, but who +afterwards proved themselves dangerous neighbours. Our sheep never +seemed to suffer; on the contrary, they did well; nor was Charles Bent +troubled in any way. For this we were thankful, and kept up our spirits +accordingly. As to the troop of mares and colts, they had things pretty +much their own way. They could gallop like the wind, and go faster over +the rough ground than we could, and we were obliged to try and run them +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>up to the manga, or stone enclosure, just as we happened most easily to +come across them. The summer, with its long hot afternoons, was now +passing, and the early autumn, perhaps the most pleasant time of the +southern year, was close upon us. As the weather got cooler, I was +continually out among the sierras looking after cattle, and I almost +always went alone. I had happened to fasten over a black bowler hat a +white "pugaree," with its ends hanging down behind to protect the back +of my neck from the sun, and late one afternoon when following a path +among the rocks with which I was well acquainted, my horse took a wrong +turn. In a few moments, passing from beneath the shadow of a large grey +rock to my right, I suddenly found myself in a small open space, about +one hundred yards long by thirty wide, where the grass grew green and +long, and a tiny stream trickled; quite an oasis in a small way. Here, +seated on the ground, their horses saddled and feeding near them, were +five men, apparently soldiers, for each had a broad red band round his +black felt hat, and a lance stuck in the ground, from which hung the red +banner. A fire was already lighted, over which was a large roast, part +of a young cow they had lately killed. A kettle was almost on the boil, +and they were evidently about to enjoy a meal. Their "arms" and +"ponchos" were piled in a heap, but each held either a knife or a short +dagger in his hand, and I noticed that two at least carried revolvers in +their belts. They were a rough-looking lot, as much surprised to see me +as I was to see them. For the moment I hardly knew what best to do. I +was quite unarmed, but did not wish to appear nervous or frightened; nor +could I make a satisfactory retreat. So I sat on my horse, perfectly +still, and then they all got up and surrounded me, gesticulating +violently, and pointing to the white covering of my hat, which seemed to +be the cause of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>annoyance. My feigned composure somewhat calmed +their excitement. They told me to hand over my hat and, placing it on a +point of rock about fifteen paces distant, succeeded in putting a bullet +through it with a revolver, to their great amusement and satisfaction. +Meanwhile those who were not shooting tried to frighten me; making signs +with their knives that it was all over with me, but seeing I was an +Englishman they fortunately had no real motive to hurt me; had they +wished to do so, I was completely at their mercy. Being "colorados," +soldiers belonging to the Red Party, they chose to assume that the white +covering on my hat was a Blanco device; but of course, they knew this +was not so. Finally, they allowed me to depart unharmed, returning to me +my hat, minus its white covering which they tore in pieces, but still +with the bullet hole in it as a proof of what happened. The matter was +not much in itself, but it shewed that mischief was brewing, and that it +was becoming unsafe to ride about in the rocks alone, more especially if +unarmed. From that day forth I also started a revolver, to the proper +loading of which I saw carefully before going any distance away. When I +got home and related what happened, it did not tend to reassure poor +Royd, who was rather in low spirits about things in general. He had +moreover heard that afternoon from a passing traveller there was a +rumour a revolution had actually broken out. However, a week passed, and +we heard no more of it, so we followed our usual occupations, leaving +matters to declare themselves. A few days later, when running up a point +of mares, we managed to include three colts which hitherto had always +eluded us. They were all chestnuts, very wild, very fast, with long +flowing manes and tails. Two of them had a broad white blaze, each with +two white hind feet. The third was larger than the others, with long, +sloping <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>quarters; rather a light chestnut, with a white star on his +forehead and nothing more. He had good shoulders and a smooth easy way +of slipping along which greatly took my fancy. So I bought him for a +nominal sum and handed him over to a decent little native named Severo +to break in for me. When he returned the horse to me I found he quite +justified my expectations, and although still a bit raw he was easy and +pleasant to ride; and I called him <i>Carnival</i>. I also took rather an +interest in Severo, who was a beautiful rider, with a good seat and +light hands. He could speak a few words of English; where he had learned +them I did not know, but he seemed anxious to be communicative, and to +teach me a few words of Spanish when I went to see how my horse was +getting on. He had lately married, and lived in a rancho, or native hut, +only a short distance from our Southern boundary. When I arrived I was +invited to sit down on their only chair, placed in the centre of the +room, Severo himself sitting on a little wooden stool, while the bride +served Matè, a liquid made by pouring boiling water on a couple of +spoonfuls of "yerba," a kind of tea grown in Brazil; a favourite +beverage among the Spaniards. The Matè is really the gourd in which the +tea is served. You suck it into your mouth through a bombilla, or silver +tube, which latter, if you are not careful, is apt to get so hot as +often to burn your lips. This beverage and the offer of a cigarette is +the orthodox form of native hospitality.</p> + +<p>One morning a party of soldiers showing Red colours galloped up +unexpectedly and took Severo prisoner, with a view to making him serve +in the Government forces. Remonstrance was in vain! He had to saddle up +his best horse and to start at once. His poor young wife was in despair, +and she rode up in tears to tell Royd of her trouble. It was useless to +attempt to get him back, so we comforted her <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>as best we could, with the +hope that her husband would manage to make his escape at the first +convenient opportunity. If he belonged to any political party it was to +the "Blancos," with whom his wife's people had always been mixed up. +This made the enforced separation a greater trial to both of them. It +was fortunate for me that "Carnival" had already been returned to me, or +he also would probably have fallen into their hands. That same afternoon +a party of "Colorados" called at the estancia to take our "peon," or +native servant, for a soldier, but he saw them coming in time, and got +away among the rocks and hid himself before they arrived, so they were +obliged to go away without him. It was evident the Reds were taking up +men not only for the ordinary strengthening of the Government forces, +but for some special purpose. This, and the persistent rumour we were +constantly hearing of a revolution having broken out in the direction of +the "Rio Negro," put us upon our guard, and we took such measures as we +could to look sharply after our stock, more especially our horses, and +to avoid being taken unawares. We also looked up our arms and +ammunition, and considered what we could do for the best in case of any +serious and sudden trouble. The position of Uruguay was at this time +probably unique in the usual stormy history of a South American +republic. Torn by faction and internal strife, peace alone seemed +wanting to ensure its progress and prosperity. The many natural +advantages, such as a good climate, abundant water, grassy plains, and +the beautiful woods which bordered the rivers, rendered it especially +suitable for pastoral purposes. Agriculture was as yet almost unknown, +except in the immediate neighbourhood of the towns, and was then of the +most primitive description. But the land itself was fertile in many +districts, consisting of a rich black loam, where crops of wheat and +maize <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>would give excellent results, and an abundant yield could be +anticipated in suitable situations from a virgin and not easily +exhausted soil. The Flores war, which had lasted for three years, had +ended in the temporary subjugation of the Blanco, or White Party, and +the placing in power of a "Colorado," or Red government. This was not in +sympathy with the majority of the people, more especially those engaged +in pastoral pursuits, such as the raising of sheep and cattle, headed by +the large native land owners, mostly "Blancos," and therefore bitterly +opposed to the "Colorados," or "Reds." These latter often had a majority +in and near the provincial towns, and especially in Monte Video, the +capital. They were led by what may be termed professional politicians, +their soldiers being partly made up of paid foreigners, forming fairly +efficient infantry, together with a large number of natives, whom they +pressed in their service when in power. Some of these, too, received +payment, so long as their party possessed sufficient funds, while a +great number got very little except their food and arms. Their bands of +irregular horse comprised anyone and everyone who had nothing to do, +together with what might be termed the scum of the townsmen, who had +nothing whatever to lose; least of all their reputation. Moreover, there +were certain families, Reds by tradition, whose heads occupied the +government posts when the "Colorados" were in power, and whose minor +members and hangers-on swarmed in the Public Offices. There were also +certain "estancieros" throughout the country, especially up towards the +Brazilian frontier, many of them influential and wealthy, whose politics +had always been Red, and who were supporters of the "Colorado Party." +But they were not nearly so united either in heart or sympathy as were +the Blancos, nor did they cultivate the same enthusiasm. The Blancos +included the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>descendants of most of the old Castilian families, who had +been the original Spanish Colonists, and they possessed, therefore, a +certain aristocratic element, if you could justly so term it, as being +part of the inner life of the republic. Their importance and influence, +and comparative wealth, accrued mainly from landed property and the +countless herds of sheep and cattle which spread themselves far and +wide, finding good and abundant pasturage on the rolling and +grass-covered plains. While therefore the "Reds" were enabled to +maintain themselves in power by means of an ample supply of money, so +long as they could control the resources of the republic, popular +sympathy in general was with the White Party; indeed, so great was the +disaffection and discontent at this particular time, it needed but a +spark, as it were, applied to gunpowder to set the whole country in a +flame. It only required a real leader, who commanded the full confidence +of the native population, to come upon the scene, and to raise high the +standard of revolt, for the people to flock to his banner far and wide +throughout the country. Thus, as it were in a moment, in a South +American republic, is a revolution born and made. Nor can this be +wondered at when you consider that intrigue and revolution is but a +natural attribute of all populations of purely Spanish descent, and when +you come to mingle an Indian and Italian and foreign element, and then +try to purify the whole by an admixture of the unruly blood of Spain, +the result means a state of general unrest, and a condition of affairs +in which the seeds of revolution are for ever present. Another incentive +is that during a revolution, horses are looked upon as munitions of war, +and may be taken from their owners as required, to be returned and paid +for as Providence may permit. Sheep and cattle, too, required for food, +may be commandeered by armed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>troops as necessity requires, a nominal +receipt for their value being usually given by the officer in charge, +which in all probability will never be paid. All this naturally gives an +opportunity to the less honest and self-respecting classes of the +community to live a free, roving, careless kind of life at other +people's expense. Although natives will tell you they hate the law of +conscription which obliges them to serve for a time in the army, this is +by no means always really true. Moreover, many of those who are poor are +apt to look upon time of war as a means of relief from the necessity for +honest toil, always distasteful to the Spaniard of South America. They, +moreover, manage to console themselves fairly well for a temporary +absence from their home, with a dim and ill-defined hope that if only +they have good luck they may possibly come out of it all considerably +better off than they went in. One afternoon, a "tropero," or buyer of +cattle, rode up to the house to enquire if we had any fat bullocks to +sell. He told us he was making up a large troop round about the +neighbourhood to take in to Monte Video. Of course, he was full of news +about the revolution, and he should not be surprised if war were to +break out at any time. As he offered Royd fifteen dollars each for any +bullocks which were fat, the latter thought it best to turn anything he +could into cash. So it was arranged we should have a gathering together +of the cattle on the following day, so as to allow the purchaser to part +out what he wished, and he also arranged to stay the night with us. He +was a pleasant man, well-dressed, and the silver fittings of his native +saddle and bridle were quite magnificent. A little before dawn next +morning found us all on the move. The cook had already got hot coffee. +Our horses had been tied up the night before, and we saddled up just as +day was breaking, and one after another slipped quietly away, each of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>us taking his appointed line in the general drive up of the herd. The +tropero himself did not go, but his two young men lent a hand, we, of +course, finding them horses. This morning things went better with us +than usual, and twice when the wildest of the bullocks made a rush and +tried to break back they were effectively stopped and disappointed. +Altogether we had a very good "para rodeo," but few of our cattle +apparently remaining behind. Next followed the parting out of the fat +animals. A short distance away from the general herd, which kept +revolving round a large post placed in the centre of the "rodeo," about +a dozen tame animals were stationed, guarded by a couple of young +natives. Each fat bullock, as it was selected by the "tropero," was then +run out of the herd into this little group, the tropero and his head man +commencing operations by running them out himself. It was all very +neatly done. They rode quietly in among the cattle, which we kept +rounded up on every side. Fixing their attention upon a fat bullock, +they placed their horses close up to it, one on either side, and so ran +it out with a sudden rush in the direction of the tame animals. +Sometimes it refused to be so dealt with, and persistently broke back at +all costs. Then the lasso was brought into play, and after it had been +lassoed and bullied about it generally thought better of it and did what +was required. For this particular work the rider must possess not only +skill, but he must be well mounted. His horse must be fast and active on +his legs; he must be intelligent, so as to enter thoroughly into the +spirit of the work, and he must also have plenty of courage. At the same +time he must exercise caution, and thoroughly know his business, +otherwise either he or his rider, probably both, may get caught on the +horns of the bullock and so come to serious grief. But it is wonderful +to see how a good horse will himself enjoy it, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>with what marvellous +perfection and accuracy he will perform his part. The rider, too, must +have good nerves, and above all a firm seat, and an accurate eye for +judging distance. As a rule, however, if he is really well mounted, the +more he trusts to his horse and the less he worries him the better. +Meanwhile, to Royd's gratification, the tropero parted out fifty fat +bullocks; quite a good parting for our comparatively small herd, but, as +a matter of fact, our cattle did wonderfully well among the rocks if +only they were left quiet. They had plenty of clear water, and the +grasses which grew there were sweet and nourishing, while in summer time +they greatly enjoyed both the shade and shelter. On the following day, +Friday, I rode over to the pulperia, or store, at Guaycoru and, as +several things were wanted, I took the boy with me, mounted on an old +grey horse, across the saddle of which a pair of large saddle bags were +slung, in which to carry them. We had not long arrived at the pulperia +when a native rode up, mounted on a fine "oscuro," or <i>dark</i> brown +horse, with a long flowing mane and tail, his reins, breastplate, and +stirrups all mounted in solid silver. He was a good-looking man, +something over thirty years of age; a slight but firmly knit figure as +he sat on his horse, with the easy, graceful seat of one born almost in +the saddle. His wide black "bombachos," or loose trousers, tucked inside +high boots, ornamented with silver spurs. The broad-brimmed felt hat, +the long "facon," a two-edged dagger, stuck in his belt, and a white +silk handkerchief tied loosely round his neck, all betokened the +"Spanish caballero," the free, independent life of the horseman on the +open plain. Quickly dismounting, he carelessly strolled into the +"pulperia," with the usual "Buenos tardes Señores," "Good afternoon, +gentlemen." But as he passed me I noticed that he was fully armed, and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>had also an alert watchful look about him, and the thought passed +through my mind that here at any rate was no ordinary man. He talked a +few moments to the pulpero, somewhat earnestly, and then came forward, +raising his hat, and offered me a cigarette, remarking something about +the heat of the afternoon. Soon after, I and the boy, having collected +our purchases, mounted our horses to return. Just as we rode round the +edge of the outbuildings a dark-skinned individual in somewhat tattered +garments rose from a low seat where he had been sitting smoking, and +came hurriedly forward. "Did you speak to the Señor with the 'oscuro,'" +he asked. "Yes!" I replied, "what about him?" The mulatto smiled and +showed his white teeth, and then said, almost in a whisper, "You do not +know him! Mamerto Godez! Cuidado! (Beware)."</p> + +<p>One afternoon just about three o'clock, I was sitting in the dining room +writing a letter. It was quite warm, and both door and windows stood +wide open. Royd and Henriquez had gone off to a pulperia owned by a man +called Saballa, on the other side of the River Rosario, to buy some +necessaries. I heard the dogs barking, but paid no attention, when +suddenly half a dozen soldiers with the white device round their hats, +and carrying the white banner on their lances, rode up from behind the +house and halted at the front door. I went out and stood right in front +of them. One who seemed superior to the others accosted me in Spanish, +and I understood him to say that war had broken out, and that their +business was to take up men and horses. Pedro the cook, so soon as he +saw them, had gone to hide among the rocks, fearing, I suppose, lest he +should be taken off for a soldier, Frenchman though he was! However, I +explained as well as my scanty knowledge of Spanish would permit exactly +who were employed, and I also told him about our horses. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>result of +it all was that they rode off more or less satisfied, saying that as +"Don Roberto" was away they would call about them another time. About +five o'clock Royd and Henriquez returned, having obtained all they +wanted, and also bringing news. A revolution had broken out far and wide +throughout the country, and a Colonel Aparicio, who had distinguished +himself in a previous war, when General Flores and the Colorados were +victorious, had apparently taken temporary command of the Blanco forces, +which were increasing enormously day by day. That evening we held a +consultation as to how we could act for the best. Royd was naturally +rather despondent, for the rocky nature of the estancia obviously +increased our difficulty in protecting and guarding the stock, besides +affording a safe refuge for thieves and bad characters of every kind. +This was always a drawback in time of peace, and, of course, the danger +would be infinitely greater in time of war. However, there seemed +nothing for it but to await events, and meanwhile do our best to keep +our cattle and horses together as well as we could. The flock of sheep +near the house fed where the land was open, and Henriquez looked after +them. Should he be away, then either I or the boy did so for him. The +other flock up towards Guaycoru fed also in open country, and Charles +Bent was careful and reliable, and could be trusted to look well after +them. He seldom went away from his "puesto," or hut, where he lived +alone, his sole companion being his sheep-dog, "Bob," which he had +brought out with him, when little more than a puppy, from England. He +had one or two neighbours on his further side, who were friendly, and he +also was no great distance from the pulperia where I had first arrived +in the diligence; so up to now he had not found it quite so lonely as +might have been expected. The stone manga, where we <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>could shut in +horses, and also a fair number of cattle, was in a broken and bad +condition, and Royd decided that he would get an Italian stonemason and +his son, who lived not very far away, towards the Rosario, to come over +and build up all the gaps and so put it in good order. Meanwhile, we had +to get the stone from where it lay among the big rocks; no easy job! It +then had to be put upon a wooden truck to which a pair of bullocks were +yoked, who slowly conveyed it to the corral. Fortunately, for a few days +the weather was fine and cool. We all took our share of this work, which +was tedious and tiring. We got a good supply by the time the stonemason +and his son arrived. The father was a thin, rather careworn-looking man, +beyond middle age, with hair fast turning grey; the son, a wiry-looking +youth of about sixteen, with black hair and a sallow complexion. With +them came a sandy-yellow coloured dog, eleven months old, very thin and +lanky-looking, but with muscular limbs, a long, straight back, a broad +forehead, small ears, and a pair of very intelligent eyes. For some +reason or other he took a fancy to me, and I saw he was well fed, for +which he seemed very grateful. He had the look of a lurcher, and was, of +course, a mongrel. He was the son's dog, from whom I bought him for a +couple of dollars. He was called "Napoleon," and I never altered his +name. We saw no more of the soldiers, so we contented ourselves with +keeping a constant eye on the horses, leaving the cattle for the time +being to look after themselves, nor did we attempt to gather them up to +the "rodeo," while the stonemason and his son were with us. Having +finished their work they bid us adieu, received payment, and with many +thanks, took their departure. "Napoleon" did not evince the least desire +to go back with them, for when they mounted their horses he came and lay +down by me, showing no sorrow <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>at his change of owners. Following on all +this, I resumed my work of riding out among the rocks to look up the +cattle again, and the dog seemed very glad to go with me. I had not been +at this more than a couple of days when I thought I missed a point of +animals I had always been accustomed to find feeding more or less in the +same locality. I reported this to Royd, who had not been very well. I +think he had overdone himself, when we were all so busy collecting the +stone. He decided we should have a "para rodeo," or gathering together +of the herd, so as to form a better idea whether any of our cattle had +been stolen. So on Saturday morning we all sallied forth just after +daybreak, our horses having been tied up the night before. The gathering +up, however, was not a successful one, for although we did not let any +we saw break back, when we got them upon the rodeo they certainly seemed +fewer than usual. From the way they came up we hardly thought any had +stayed behind among the rocks. The next day Royd and I took a turn round +to visit our neighbours, to enquire if any of our cattle had been seen +by them. They welcomed us in a friendly manner, and were all apparently +anxious to talk about the war, and to relate all they had heard +regarding it. But we could hear nothing about our missing cattle. All, +therefore, we could do was to arrange for another gathering up within a +week, and two of our neighbours kindly offered to help us. They arranged +to meet us at the far end of the estancia, just after sunrise, and a +couple of native boys came with them. However, when we got the herd +collected on the "rodeo," they again seemed to be fewer than usual, so +we shut part of them up in the stone manga, for it would not hold them +all, and first counted those outside and then those inside, and we were +sadly compelled to conclude that quite fifty animals were missing. Where +to find <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>them we did not know, and we could only hope they would turn up +again at the next para-rodeo.</p> + +<p>A few days later, Henriquez started off early in the afternoon to +Saballa's pulperia, with the large saddle-bags slung over his saddle to +bring back his purchases. He returned just before sunset, and we at once +saw by his manner that something unusual had happened. He told us the +people at the pulperia were much upset because on the previous day a +little over a mile away, down near the wood which bordered the river +Rosario, a poor Italian musician had been found lying with his throat +cut from ear to ear. Whoever had done the deed appeared to have tied a +poor little monkey to the ankle of the dead man, and so to have left +them by the side of his small barrel-organ, which was also much broken. +The body was lying at the pulperia when Henriquez arrived, waiting +permission for burial; and he also saw the monkey, which was being taken +care of. It certainly shewed there were some very wicked people about, +as from the footprints round the place where the body was found, it +would seem that whoever did it was not alone. The Italian had been +playing two nights before at the house of a native, where there had been +a small dance, when several girls and young men were present, all of +whom, however, were well-known. In the morning he had some coffee given +to him, and left the house quite well, en route for the pulperia, and +late that afternoon his body was found by a casual passer-by, who at +once gave notice of what had happened. Poor Henriquez was greatly +affected during the evening, and kept repeating over and over again, +"Pobre Italiano" (poor Italian). "There he lay with his throat cut from +ear to ear. Oh! it's 'orrid, 'orrid, 'orrid!" For in his distress the +cockney accent became more pronounced than ever.</p> + +<p>When, however, he had somewhat recovered his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>composure, he told us the +Whites were assembling in large force up towards Paysandu, and that many +Blancos from our neighbourhood had already gone outside to join them. +Meanwhile, the Reds were assembling in the province of San José, as also +in the Department of Colonia, and he seemed to think at present we had +more to fear from the Government forces so far as our horses and cattle +were concerned than we had from the revolutionists. As "Carnival" was +rather a good-looking horse, I caught him up most days, although I only +rode him occasionally. I let him out to feed late in the afternoon, when +so far as we knew all seemed to be quiet. Royd had an "ovaro," or +piebald, he thought a lot of, and also a grey he often rode, and +Henriquez took all the care he could of a nice little chestnut he was +very proud of, and always rode on special occasions. Things now went on +much as usual, and we had no visit from the Red soldiers, for which we +were thankful. I was out pretty regularly looking up the cattle, and I +kept on fancying from time to time that some were missing; nor, when we +had the para rodeo did I ever think as many came up as used to do. We +had some of the small fallow deer of the pampas about among the rocks, +and they could often be seen coming out towards late afternoon into the +open glades to feed. I managed to shoot four of them with my rifle, and +took off their skins which, when dried in the sun, soften easily. I also +shot a couple of "carpinchos," a kind of water-pig, which could often be +seen about sunset on the bank of the stream running along the western +side of the camp. They are hard to get near, and easily frightened. +Their skins are much thought of by the natives, who get them tanned, and +put them across the top of their "recados," or saddles. A few days later +we were all sitting at breakfast when Charles Bent arrived. He had +someone staying with him at the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>puesto for a few days, so was able to +get away. He told us he had not been troubled by soldiers, and that the +sheep were all right. But he said it was rumoured cattle had been stolen +from a small native estancia, beyond where he lived, which belonged to a +"Blanco," and it was supposed they had been taken by some "Colorado" +soldiers, who wished to escape service, and whose chief hiding place was +said to be among the large sierras on our camp. Royd did not like the +look of this at all, as if true it would prove a great danger to our +cattle, and might easily account for the number we thought missing. Bent +stayed the night, and did not go back until next afternoon. He told me +privately he believed there were some bad characters hiding among the +rocks, but that he did not wish to say more than he could help to Royd, +as he was apt to take things so much to heart, and it might cause him +needless worry. But he begged me to be careful, and take every +precaution when riding about among the sierras alone, looking up the +cattle, and he advised me to have "Napoleon" with me, and to see that I +was well armed. He also said he did not feel very happy himself, living +alone at the "puesto," but as it was well outside the rocks, surrounded +by open country, he intended to keep a sharp look-out and if possible to +avoid being taken unawares.</p> + +<p>Fortunately, he had a placid, easy-going temperament, and was not at all +nervous, nor was he inclined to meet trouble half-way. The following +Friday, a little before eleven, a Blanco officer arrived, and with him +about fifty soldiers. They were passing from the town of Colla, towards +Guaycoru, and going on to join the White army. They had several extra +horses with them, so they did not trouble much about ours, except a +saino, or brown, which was feeding not far from the house, and this they +asked to take along with them. I had <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>"Carnival" tied up and saddled, as +also was Royd's piebald, and Henriquez happened to be riding his +chestnut down with the sheep. The other horses were among the rocks, so +they did not see them. We invited the officer in to breakfast, which, +after the Spanish fashion, we were accustomed to have at eleven o'clock, +and dinner at sundown. He was quite young, having served but a short +time in the army. He asked if his men might have something to eat, which +meant they would like to kill a couple of sheep, and roast the meat over +two fires made in the open. They also had some "farenha," a kind of +meal, which they eat raw, with roast meat, and cooked into a sort of +pudding with boiled. We also gave them "yerba" and sugar to make their +matè, or native tea, and they were quite happy. They were all more or +less armed with either lances or guns, and many carried both. Many had a +revolver, and often a facon, or double-edged knife, stuck in their belts +behind; but taking them all round, they were quite orderly, and the +young officer seemed to have them under good control. He told us that +the revolution was extremely popular. Men were flocking far and wide to +the White banner, and up towards Paysandu had already joined in very +large numbers. He asked us if any of the "Colorados" had come to the +estancia, and if we knew of any being about in our neighbourhood. As +they departed they looked quite picturesque, with the Blanco device +round their hats, and the white banner flying from their lances, many +leading their spare horses. They all rode off at a trotte-cito, or +jog-trot, the young officer following alone in solitary grandeur behind. +But their visit, although it passed off quite well, seemed unduly to +depress poor Royd, whom we found it difficult to persuade into taking +anything like a cheerful view of the situation.</p> + +<p>Towards the end of the next week, Henriquez <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>said he should like to ride +over and visit a friend who lived at a small native place on the other +side of Guaycoru. So it was arranged he should go on Saturday morning, +returning home on the Monday, and that I should keep an eye on the flock +of sheep. They did not feed far distant from the house, and when once +turned early in the afternoon, usually fed quietly on their way home. So +on Saturday morning after coffee, Henriquez caught and saddled up his +chestnut, putting on his best gear, and wearing a clean white shirt, a +black jacket and waistcoat, and a pair of black "merino bombachos," or +wide trousers, tucked inside a pair of carefully polished long boots. On +these he buckled a pair of silver spurs, of which he was very proud, as +also of the handsome silver buttons fastening the wide belt of carpincho +skin he wore round his waist. Finally he put on his summer poncho, a +very nice one, and a soft broad-brimmed felt hat completed his +appearance, which seemed to give him every satisfaction. Just before +mounting his horse he examined his revolver, which he carefully fixed in +its proper place inside his belt. I rode with him for about half a mile, +and the last I saw of him was as he turned round the corner of a large +grey mass of rock which bordered the track, and so disappeared from +view. He did not return on the Monday as expected, and on the Tuesday +morning when the boy drove up the riding horses to the corral, much to +our surprise his chestnut was among them, with a bit of broken hide +hanging loosely down from where it was fastened round the horse's neck. +We supposed, however, it had been collared to a mare where Henriquez was +staying, as was a usual custom, and had broken away during the early +part of the previous night, and so found its way home. However, both +Tuesday and Wednesday passed and he did not return, as we felt quite +sure he would do, on a horse borrowed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>from his friends. So on Thursday +morning I started to ride over to the place where Henriquez had gone, +and during my absence the boy was to watch the sheep. Arriving there, as +I did, about nine o'clock, my surprise may be imagined when I was told +that Henriquez had left them about two o'clock on the Monday afternoon, +quite well, mounted on his own horse, and that he seemed anxious to +reach home with as little delay as possible. I stayed about half an hour +discussing the situation, and then started to ride to the pulperia at +Guaycoru, to make further enquiries. When I got there the owner knew +nothing, nor had he heard anything regarding Henriquez from anyone who +had come to his pulperia. He was a kind little man, and much concerned +at my news, and he promised to enquire from anyone who called at his +house if perchance they might have seen Henriquez, or heard any news of +him. I stayed a little while and got some coffee and two or three +biscuits, and then remounted a big brown horse I was riding, somewhat +loosely put together, but sure-footed all the same, and well-accustomed +to stony country. He had a head quite half of it white, and two wall +eyes, known to the natives as a "pampa," by which name he usually went. +Horses of this type and colour were said to have belonged to the +original Indians of the "Pampas," at the time of the Spanish +colonisation. After again talking things over with the pulpero, we +agreed my best plan would be to ride round by Bent's puesto, in case he +should have heard anything, and if not, I could let him know what had +happened, so that he too might make enquiries. I arrived a little before +one o'clock, and saw Bent walking close to his house as I rode up. "Bob" +ran out barking, but immediately knew me and gave me a friendly +greeting. Bent, of course, had known Henriquez well, and was much +perturbed by what I had to tell him. He had neither seen nor <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>heard +anything. All he could tell me was that it was rumoured there were a +party of thieves supposed to be fugitives from the Reds, who were said +to have taken up their quarters in the rocks, and were stealing small +points of cattle and sheep as opportunity offered. These they were +supposed to drive off at night if there was any moon, or else +immediately after daybreak, to a place some considerable distance away, +where they were said to collect them, and where doubtless they had +friends ready to receive them. All this, however, was not very +comforting, but I asked Bent to be sure and let us know at once if he +heard any news of Henriquez, and also to make his disappearance known to +anyone he might happen to come across, for he lived not very far from +the "camino real," or Government road. I then mounted my horse, +determined to lose no time in getting back to the estancia as soon as +might be. I knocked the "pampa" along at about his best pace, +considering the broken ground over which I had to pass. I always had a +queer feeling passing through the rocks. You could see so little in +front of you, and were so easily apt to miss your way. However, it was +barely half past two when I rode up. Royd was at home, and at once came +out of the house. He was much shocked and greatly upset by what I had to +tell him, saying again and again he felt quite sure the worst had +happened, and that we should none of us ever see or hear of poor +Henriquez again. On Friday Royd and I spent the day searching the tracks +which ran through the rocky part of the estancia; first those over which +a horseman returning direct to the house was most likely to pass, and +then the ones which ran out on either side, which it was not usual for a +traveller to follow. We came across various signs that men with horses +had recently been passing in and out of the sierras, for twice we came +across places where apparently a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>young cow had been killed and a fire +made near, where part of it at any rate had evidently been roasted, and +that quite recently. On Saturday we carefully searched over another +portion of the estancia, but all without result. Not a sign could we see +of the missing man. Henriquez "had simply vanished!" On Monday morning +we sent the boy over to the pulperia at Guaycoru with a letter to the +pulpero, asking if he could give us any news. But all in vain; no one +had seen or heard anything of him since he started from his friends' +house on his chestnut horse to return home on that Monday afternoon, now +exactly a week ago. Tuesday passed and nothing came to relieve our +suspense. But on Wednesday morning Bent turned up about eleven o'clock, +and I saw at once by his face that something had happened. Having his +friend with him, he started on his horse to come down to the estancia, +and not wishing to be away longer than he could help, he chose a track +which ran through the centre of the rocks in a diagonal direction, not +usually followed, which came out not more than three-quarters of a mile +from the estancia house itself. Contrary to his custom, "Bob" followed +his master, instead of staying at the puesto, where the sheep were, +until his return. Bent was riding carefully along this track when "Bob" +suddenly began to whine and bark, and turning off on one side +disappeared round a big rock.</p> + +<p>Bent whistled and called, but the dog did not return. So he got off his +horse and tied him up to a low bush which happened to be near. He then +took out his revolver and followed on foot in the direction the dog had +gone. He only went about fifty yards just round the edge of the large +rock already mentioned when he found himself in a small open glade, some +thirty yards long, and perhaps fifteen wide, at the far end of which +stood "Bob," <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>close by an object which lay stretched on the ground. Here +was all that remained of poor Henriquez. He was lying slightly on one +side, face downwards; his hat and poncho, and his long boots and silver +spurs, his jacket and waistcoat, belt and revolver all gone! How he ever +came there goodness only knew. Nothing was left but his white shirt, his +black bombachos, and his stockings. It seemed as if the body must have +been either carried or dragged to the place where it lay. His face +looked peaceful, and the only thing to be noticed were signs of a wound +where a bullet had entered just between the shoulders, apparently fired +from behind. There were no signs of bruised or broken grass or horses' +footprints, if indeed a horse could have got round the very narrow space +beside the big rock. Bent covered the face with his pocket handkerchief, +leaving the body lying exactly as it was when he found it, and then +returning to where he had left his horse came on straight to the +estancia. Royd was greatly affected by the sad news which Bent brought +us, as well he might be. However, he said that he and I had better go +back with Bent to the place, taking the native peon and a spade and pick +with us, so that we might dig a grave, and so give the body a decent +burial. Fortunately, we found a spot close by, where the stones and rock +underneath the surface soil were more or less loose and detached. When +we had finished digging the grave, Bent read a portion of the burial +service, as we lowered all that remained of poor Henriquez into his last +resting-place. We then filled in the earth again, placing the loose +pieces of rock we had got out so that they covered and protected the +top, our intention being later on to fix a wooden cross, suitably +inscribed at the head of the grave, permanently to mark the place where +our poor friend lay. It was late afternoon as Royd and I slowly and +sorrowfully wended our way home, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>closely followed by the native peon, +for Bent had returned to his puesto so soon as the interment was finally +completed. Nothing much happened during the next few days. We had a +gathering together of the cattle, but we were short-handed, and when we +got them up to the rodeo we were compelled to conclude that a good many +of them were missing. One morning, about nine o'clock, a dozen +Government soldiers rode up, each with a red band round his hat and the +red banner flying from their lances. They were not too civil, and merely +said they were taking up horses and men. Our native peon was away among +the rocks, looking for two of our riding horses, which were missing. +Pedro, the cook, had retired to a dark corner of the kitchen. Our other +horses were feeding at some distance from the house, but they asked for +them to be brought up into the corral, so that they might take what they +required. So we sent off the native boy to bring them in. Fortunately, +"Carnival" and Royd's two horses happened to be feeding alone much +further away, so they did not come up with the others, and the soldiers +never saw them. They ended by taking five, including the pampa, +previously mentioned, and they left us two in very poor condition. It +was rather a trial to see them go off, but the soldiers gave us no +choice in the matter, so we could not do otherwise than let them go. +They also asked for some meat, and taking with them the greater part of +a sheep which was hanging in the galpon, they rode off in the direction +of Guaycoru, and we were pleased to see them depart without causing us +further trouble.</p> + +<p>On the Monday following, Royd rode over to stay until the end of the +week with some friends who had an estancia a few miles on our side of +the town of San José. Nothing happened during his absence until Friday, +when Bent rode up about eight o'clock <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>in the morning, looking much +perturbed. Fortunately, his friend had been staying with him at the +puesto as he so often did, for he told me that during the night not only +had about two-thirds of his flock been driven off and could not be found +anywhere in the morning, but that the puesto itself had been attacked +just after midnight by four men, all apparently fully armed. They had +doubtless expected Bent to be alone, but his dog "Bob" was sleeping at +the foot of his bed, and woke him up from sleep by his growling, and so +gave the alarm.</p> + +<p>The puesto was a long, narrow building, built mostly of wood, thickly +plastered inside and out with mud, the inside being well whitewashed +throughout. The roof was thatched with a reed called "paja," much used +for the purpose, for it kept the house both warm in winter, and cool in +summer, and was an excellent protection against heavy rain. The front +door stood close up towards one end of the building, facing West. Inside +were two rooms, each with a window facing East, divided by a wall, so as +to make a living-room, into which you entered, with a sleeping-room +beyond. This latter had also an extra piece built on to it at right +angles, so as to give more sleeping accommodation, one of the walls of +which overlooked the front door. In the middle of this wall, about four +feet from the ground was a small wooden frame about eighteen inches +square which had been put in the wall for the purpose of ventilation, +and inside this was a moveable shutter which slid easily sideways, +secured by a small iron hook to keep it in its place. Both frame and +shutter were somewhat discoloured, so they were not easily noticed, +appearing more or less the same as the mud wall outside. The moon was +almost full, every now and again shaded over by light cloud, which came +slowly sailing up from the south, although there was really but little +wind.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>The flock had gone quietly to rest on the large bare open space, where +they usually passed the night, perhaps one hundred and fifty yards +distant from the front door of the building. Bent had taken a look at +them between nine and ten o'clock, before retiring to rest, when they +appeared quite still, and everything quiet. It would be about two +o'clock in the morning, when "Bob" began to growl in low but savage +tones, which awoke Bent and his friend, who soon got into their clothes +and had hold of their revolvers, which were always kept loaded. +Meanwhile, Bent thought he could hear low voices outside the front door, +so with great presence of mind he pushed the table which stood in the +middle of the sitting-room up against it, and the chairs also, thus +forming a sort of barricade. Leaving his friend to press the table +inside against the front door as hard as he could, and also "Bob," who +was then barking violently. Bent hurried round to the wooden shutter in +his friend's bedroom wall, already mentioned, and drew it quietly back +without making any noise. Looking through it he saw four men fully armed +trying to force open the front door. He could also see their horses +standing saddled near the outside kitchen only a few yards away. He +promptly fired full at the nearest man, who forthwith uttered a loud +cry, apparently wounded. He then fired two more shots in quick +succession, but after the first shot the men made for their horses in +great confusion, mounted them, and hurriedly rode away.</p> + +<p>The two horses which were missing a week ago had not yet turned up, so I +sent out the boy to have a good look round among the rocks, and if +possible to find them, for I feared lest they had been stolen, which +ultimately proved to be the case, for we never saw them again. Leaving +the native peon at the house to look after the sheep, I started with +Bent <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>to go to the puesto, so that we might try if we could hear +anything of all the sheep he told me were missing. His friend appeared +glad to see us, for he had received rather a shock, and did not much +like, after all that had happened, being there by himself. When we came +to count up the sheep we found the number remaining to be barely six +hundred some nine hundred having disappeared, which was indeed a heavy +loss. Poor Bent seemed very sad about it, and well he might be! We could +only conclude that the four men who attacked the puesto must have had +accomplices, who drove off the sheep earlier in the night without +causing much disturbance, by first turning them off the bare place where +the flock was resting across the ground where they were accustomed to +feed, before finally driving them off, as they appeared to have done. In +so doing the strongest and best sheep would naturally go in front, while +those which were weaker and less valuable would be the ones to stay +behind. Seeing that four armed men had attacked the puesto, it seemed +probable that at least an equal number had carried off the sheep. The +fact that there was so much rocky and broken country in the +neighbourhood of the estancia, and not very far away, made it all the +more difficult to obtain any clue as to the route the thieves might have +taken. The ground was hard, and we could find no trace of where the +stolen sheep had passed.</p> + +<p>Having done all we could in this direction, Bent and I separated, each +of us riding round to two or three of the neighbours whom we knew, to +make them aware of what had happened. Late in the afternoon I called at +the pulperia at Guaycoru, hoping I might perhaps hear something +there—but all the owner could tell me was he had heard a rumour that +Mamerto Gomez, the man I had once spoken to at his house, had been seen +three days previously <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>with half a dozen other men entering the rocks, +fully armed, from the opposite side, but for what purpose or whether +they were in any way connected with the carrying off of the sheep, it +was impossible to say! It was easy to surmise they were up to no good, +but this was of course merely conjecture, and I completely failed to +learn anything which might lead to the recovery of the large number of +sheep which were missing. Royd was to come home the next afternoon, and +I knew what a blow this would be to him, when he came to hear of his +loss. I had "Carnival" tied up that night, and sunrise saw me in the +saddle on my way to the puesto, to consult with Bent as to what we could +do further, with a view to obtaining some reliable information if +possible by the time Royd would return. When I got there Bent had heard +nothing, although he had communicated with more than one traveller +riding towards the road along which the diligence passed. We arranged +the direction in which Bent should search during the day, and I took the +opposite one, and made a long round, calling up anywhere I thought it +possible I might hear anything. By mid-day, I found myself not very far +from the pulperia at Guaycoru, so stopped there, and arranged with the +owner to send over a messenger at once to the estancia should he hear +anything which would help us. I then rode back to the puesto to consult +once more with Bent, who by this time—it was now two o'clock—had +returned from his search, without having obtained any information, +although he had questioned at least a dozen people since I left him in +the morning. It was all very trying and disappointing. There seemed +nothing for it but to return to the estancia to meet Royd when he got +home, and tell him what had happened.</p> + +<p>It was nearly four o'clock when I arrived, and about half an hour later +Royd turned up, having <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>much enjoyed his little outing. He brought a +young English boy, about fifteen, with him, tall for his age, with broad +shoulders, and an upright figure. His name was Frank Tryon, but he was +generally known as "Francisco." He was an excellent rider, and fond of +horses and dogs, especially of the pretty "alazan," or chestnut pony he +was riding when he arrived, with its flowing mane and tail, of which it +was easy to see he was really very proud.</p> + +<p>I helped them to unsaddle, and told the cook to get some coffee ready, +as they told me they had breakfast as they came along. Royd then sat +down in an easy chair and began to smoke. "Well, Royd," I said, "I am +very glad to see you back. I have just come down from Bent's puesto. It +was attacked by thieves on Thursday night, and two-thirds of the sheep +were stolen. Bent and I have searched in every direction both yesterday +and to-day, and we can learn nothing whatever about them." "Goodness +gracious! that is indeed bad luck," replied Royd, "but I am glad poor +Bent got off all right; it must have given him a great shock. I hope his +friend was with him so that he would not be alone." I then told him all +that had happened, and also what I had heard about Mamerto Gomez and his +men having been seen entering the sierras. "It is not unlikely he may be +the real cause of it all," said Royd. "I fully expect that fellow had a +hand in it, for I believe him to be a regular scoundrel, in spite of his +suave manner and grand appearance." Certainly Royd bore his misfortune +with more fortitude than I expected, for the loss was indeed a heavy +one. The late afternoon was now drawing on, and I sent the native boy to +bring up the "tropilla," which happened to be feeding not far away, up +into the corral, so that we might collar Francisco's pony to the +tropilla mare, and we then let them all out again to feed for the night. +After <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>dinner we talked the whole affair over before going to bed, +without, however, coming to any conclusion as to what prospect there was +of our ever again hearing of the missing sheep. Early on Monday morning, +leaving Francisco at the house, who said he would keep an eye on the +sheep, Royd and I rode over to the puesto, where Bent had nothing +whatever to report. He had managed to interview during Sunday some half +dozen horsemen who were riding along within reach of him, but could +obtain nothing in the way of information. Royd and I both took a long +turn round in opposite directions, each returning to the puesto about +three o'clock; but it was all in vain: we could learn nothing which +would help us from anybody. We again held a consultation, and Royd +determined that for the present Bent should stay on at the puesto and +have his friend with him, maintaining as strict a watch as possible over +the sheep which remained. Later, if we failed to hear anything of the +ones that had been stolen, the only thing to do would be for Bent to +come down with his sheep to the estancia, and join them on to those +which were there. As by leaving the puesto he would not only be safer +and more secure himself, but he could then look after all the sheep +remaining on the estancia by keeping them together in one flock.</p> + +<p>The autumn of the Southern year was now well advanced, and there was +still plenty of grass within reasonable reach of the estancia house—but +meanwhile we only thought of this plan as being one suitable for the +near future. Royd and I then rode home, having had a fairly long day. +Everything seemed quiet as we followed along the narrow track which +wound itself like a snake among the big masses of grey rock. Suddenly +Napoleon, who was with us, started off as if in pursuit of something, +and I took out my revolver and followed him up. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>Reaching an open space +quite hidden from the track, I came upon the remains of a young cow, the +best joints of the meat having evidently been cut up and taken away with +the hide on them, while the animal was still warm; indeed, it was plain +the cow had only been recently killed. I called to Royd who was only a +little way behind me to come and look. It certainly looked as if thieves +were not very far off, and in view of recent events it did not tend to +make either of us feel very comfortable. Probably one of the grey foxes +often to be seen as evening approached had been visiting the remains, +and Napoleon had caught scent of it, which attracted his attention. When +we got home we found Francisco quite happy, and he and I took a turn +round and brought up the riding horses, shutting them up for the night +in the stone "manga," instead of leaving them out to feed as usual. We +also saw to our guns and ammunition. All this gave us food for +reflection, and we sat up talking and smoking until quite late.</p> + +<p>Towards the end of the week we made up our minds to have another +gathering together of the cattle. Francisco looked forward to this with +much pleasure, as he was anxious to see how his chestnut would acquit +himself among the rocks, which were quite new to him. We tied up horses +over night, and were on the move just after dawn. It was a beautiful +morning, the sun rose in a clear sky, the herald of a fine day. I and +the native peon went together to quite the far end of the camp. Royd and +Francisco taking a position a little nearer home The cattle appeared to +be coming up well, nor did any so far as we knew succeed in breaking +back. When, however, we got them up to the rodeo and made a count, at +least two hundred and fifty animals seemed missing. The native peon and +boy with the aid of Francisco, kept them there, not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>allowing them to go +back to their feeding ground until twelve o'clock. Meanwhile, Royd and I +went back over the ground again to try and discover if any, and if so +how many, might have escaped us. However, we failed to find them in any +direction. That being so the only conclusion we could come to was that a +large number of the herd, certainly more than two hundred had +disappeared, and in all probability been stolen. This was by no means a +pleasant conclusion. Poor Royd was very depressed, and as we sat by the +fire that evening, turned to me and said, "If this sort of thing goes on +it will be about time for me to clear out." I tried to comfort him as +well as I could, although I did not feel at all happy in my own mind; +far from it. "Suppose we have another gathering up in a week's time, we +can see what happens then," I said. Meanwhile I will be about on +horseback as much as I can among the rocks, and I will see if I can find +a clue to the mystery. "Thank you!" replied Royd, "we will wait and see +if more of them come up to the rodeo in a week's time." But before the +day came I could see the matter was constantly weighing on his mind, nor +did I at all wonder, and I really felt very sorry for him. Next morning +we were up betimes, and all went to the corral to catch up horses for +the day. There was a very pretty "dorodilla," or bay filly in the +tropilla, with a black mane and tail, about two years old. This Royd +proposed to give as a present to Francisco, as he said it would make a +nice companion for his chestnut. This pleased him greatly, and he soon +began to talk of catching it up and leading it about with a halter and +rein if only it was sufficiently tame to allow this to be done. The +following days I spent among the sierras, and I could not disguise from +myself that the various groups of cattle when I saw them <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>feeding, and I +recollected what they used to look like seemed certainly smaller; +indeed, several animals I knew and therefore quite expected to see I +never managed to see at all. All seemed quiet, however, nor did they +show any evidence of having been recently disturbed. I was riding home +on Friday evening later than usual for it was close upon sunset, when I +thought I heard voices. I immediately stopped and listened carefully. A +light breeze rustling from where the sound came seemed to bring it +nearer, and I judged it could not be more than one hundred and fifty +yards distant. There happened to be an open space close to where I was, +some twenty paces long by ten wide. It had a narrow entrance, and was +quite surrounded and shut in by the high rocks. I knew well where it +was, having been there before. So I dismounted and led my horse through +this narrow entrance into the open space, where he was completely hidden +from view, and hobbled him and tied him up. I then came out, and +carefully concealing myself, stole along on foot in the direction from +which I had heard the voices. I easily obtained sufficient cover, and +had not advanced at all far when I saw four men, all armed, about sixty +paces from me. One of them was Mamerto Gomez, the man I had seen at the +pulperia; I recognised him at once, and he seemed to be directing the +others, as if they were arranging some plan or other. I listened +attentively, hoping I might perhaps hear some mention of the stolen +sheep, but what with the subdued tone in which they conversed and the +fact that I did not know much Spanish, I failed to make out what they +were saying. Their horses stood saddled near them, and I noticed they +wore the red device round their black felt hats. I remained perfectly +still for quite ten minutes, well sheltered from their view by a large +piece of rock, where I could see but <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>could not be seen. At the end of +that time they suddenly mounted their horses and rode away in the +opposite direction to where I was hid, and I must allow I did not feel +very sorry to see them depart. I then went back to my horse, and at once +rode home. Royd also had just returned, and was unsaddling near the +front door. He had been round to ask three or four of our neighbours to +help us to gather up our cattle on the Monday morning following. He +thought, perhaps, if we had more horsemen we might make a more +successful "para rodeo" than we had done before.</p> + +<p>I told him my little adventure, and what I had seen, and he shook his +head. "That fellow Mamerto is at the bottom of all this trouble, I do +believe," he said, "and I do wish you had been able to hear distinctly +what those thieves were planning and talking about."</p> + +<p>Only the first sign of dawn was appearing on Monday morning when we +saddled up our horses and rode silently in among the grey rocks. +Francisco did not go with us, but he joined us later at the rodeo. I had +the furthest to go, quite to the end of the estancia, near Guaycoru. +Bent came from his side, and four of our neighbours each fell into line +at the place appointed. So this time we mustered a fairly strong force, +and none of the cattle had any chance of breaking back. But by the time +we had got them outside the sierras, and even before I could see them +gathered together at close quarters, I felt sure in my own mind that +quite a third of the herd was missing. Thanks to our neighbours' +assistance we were able to make a correct count, and this we did twice +over, so as to be sure we were correct. There were only four hundred and +sixty-five animals, not counting a dozen very small calves, whereas +there ought to have been over seven hundred at least. Anyway, making +every <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>possible allowance, there were certainly more than two hundred +missing; not far different from what we had made them out to be ten days +ago. There was no accounting in any way where the missing animals could +be, so we had to accept the inevitable and conclude they must have been +driven off, probably during the night, and stolen. They seemed just to +have vanished in the same way as did the sheep. One misfortune so +quickly following the other caused Royd to feel his loss very acutely, +and it naturally made him despondent and down-hearted. I tried my best +to cheer him up, but with little success. One day we succeeded in +running the troop of mares and colts up into the stone enclosure. They +were swift of foot, knew every turn and twist of the rocks, and so long +as they kept inside the sierras it was difficult for anyone to get hold +of them. When once in the corral it was a different matter. A chestnut +colt, with a white star on his forehead, smaller and younger than +"Carnival" was easily lassoed, and afterwards tied up to a post, from +which to no purpose he made strenuous efforts to get loose. He had to +remain where he was during the night, and next morning we collared him +to a tame mare, so that he could easily be got hold of when wanted. A +couple of mornings later, when the riding horses were brought up to the +corral, Francisco's bay filly was missing, and, after a long search, was +found, minus its skin, which was but of small value. Why it had been +killed was a mystery, until some time afterwards it became known that a +near neighbour was making a set of horse-gear of raw cowhide and mares +hide; and as this set was a very particular one it required all the hide +to be of the same colour. So the maker, having run out of mare's hide, +searched round in the neighbourhood until he found an animal to suit +him, which happened to be Francisco's filly. The latter was greatly +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>distressed by his potrilla coming to so premature an end, but there it +lay dead, so there was nothing more to be done. This shews the small +amount of respect there was for property in those days in the country +districts of the Republic. Immediately following this little event, +Colonel Pinto Mallada who held an important position in the Department, +arrived with two hundred and fifty soldiers and encamped near the +estancia for a couple of days. He sent his adjutant up to say he would +require a supply of meat for his men to eat, but that orders had been +given them not to take any horses. Consequently, those we wanted to save +were brought up to feed within easy distance of the house, as Mallada's +orders were generally obeyed.</p> + +<p>Francisco happened to be left alone at the estancia with Pedro the cook, +and when he went out to see if the horses were all right, he noticed +that his chestnut pony was missing. So he went down on an old brown +horse he was riding to the Colonel's tent, situate under a tree, but he +was not allowed to see him, as he was taking his "siesta." However, his +sergeant, whom he interviewed, said he was to come later. The Colonel, +who was a stern half Indian, was much feared; he spoke little, and had +but little mercy for his enemies. So Francisco returned to the house and +went down again to see him later on. He found him sitting sucking +"matè," while the sergeant stood beside him combing carefully for him +his long hair, which hung down almost to his shoulders. Francisco told +the Colonel his pony had gone, whereupon the latter directed his +sergeant to take him round the encampment, as the soldiers were +scattered in different places in lots of eight or ten together. No pony +could be found, so Francisco and the sergeant returned to see the +Colonel, who then said if the pony was not in the encampment some men he +had sent away must have taken it, but that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>Francisco need not fear, as +he should have his pony back again.</p> + +<p>Thereupon Francisco once again returned to the house very sorry not to +have found his pony—but still hoping for the best. Sure enough in three +days a soldier rode up with the chestnut pony, apparently none the worse +for his enforced absence.</p> + +<p>This shews the Colonel had a certain kind of feeling about him, although +at the same time he had little regard for the lives of those who +happened to oppose his wishes. I believe in the end, a long time +afterwards, he was shot in Rosario, during some political trouble. Early +in the next week I rode over to what was known as the "Swiss Colony," +some fourteen miles distant from us in more or less a Southerly +direction. There was a pulperia there where the diligence which came out +from Monte Video stopped, and often brought us letters—which usually +came to hand sooner or later, as opportunity offered. However, just now +Royd was expecting some, and as a few small purchases were also required +I saddled up poor Henriquez's chestnut, and taking a pair of saddle-bags +with me, made a start. He was a good little horse, the morning was +bright and fine, and I enjoyed my ride as I galloped along over the +rolling country in front of me. I just pulled up at Saballa's pulperia +as I passed to hear if there was any news. But everything was quiet, and +no soldiers seemed to be about. Just about a mile distant from the pass +over the river Rosario, leading to the Swiss Colony, I overtook Mr. +Frederick Dampier, owner of the Estancia del Pichinango. He also was on +his way to Quincke's pulperia, so we rode on together. He asked me a +good deal about Royd, and how he was getting on, etc, and he looked very +serious when I related to him all that had happened. "I doubt if you +will ever see either those sheep or cattle again," he said. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>"I expect +there is a regular gang of thieves located inside the sierras, with +Mamerto Gomez as their leader."</p> + +<p>"I hope they won't take it into their heads to come our way; it would +not be the first time such a thing has happened; although, fortunately, +there is no secure hiding place for them in the day-time here, like +there is inside the sierras."</p> + +<p>When we got to the pulperia I found three letters, two for Royd and one +for me. I soon completed my small purchases, and half an hour later was +ready to start on my return journey. Mr. Dampier was also returning by +the same way we had come, so we rode on together. When we had got +through the pass, he turned to me and said, "I wonder if you would care +to go and take charge up at the Cerro. It is where my partner lived +before he returned to England, a little more than a year ago. You might +find yourself fairly comfortable there; anyway, you would have plenty of +room, and you could assist me in the management of the estancia." This +proposal certainly took me somewhat by surprise, for I had only been +about nine months in the country, but I thanked him, and said I would +see what Royd thought about it when I got back, and let him know without +unnecessary delay. We then parted company, just about in the same place +where we had met in the morning. The chestnut was going well, the sun, +now past the meridian, was shining brightly, the air was fresh and cool, +and my ride was a pleasant one. I thought a good deal as I rode along +about what Mr. Dampier had said to me, and the more I thought of it the +better I liked the idea of what he had proposed. The only difficulty was +that if Royd was going to have continued trouble at the rocks, I did not +wish to leave him, as it were, in the lurch.</p> + +<p>Now that the war had definitely broken out, it <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>seemed to me that if I +went to the "Cerro," it would certainly be an experience, and there +would probably prove to be a fair amount of excitement as well. It was +just after two o'clock when I reached the estancia. Royd had ridden out, +and did not return until towards sunset. I unsaddled the chestnut and +let him go. He at once trotted off to find his friends and enjoy a quiet +feed. He knew they would not be very far away. Meanwhile Pedro got me +some food and coffee, and I sat down and read my letter, which had come +from England, over again, and smoked a quiet pipe. When Royd returned I +handed him his letters and showed him my purchases, which he found +satisfactory. He had been out among the sierras, and had taken a turn +round to see a native neighbour, where doubtless he had discussed the +situation, and why so many cattle were missing when we got them up to +the rodeo. Perhaps his native friend had given him comfort, for he +seemed in better spirits than usual. I said nothing to him until we had +finished dinner and were sitting smoking by the fire in the dining room; +for winter was coming on, and the evenings began to be chilly. Then I +told him how I had met Mr. Dampier, and what he had said to me. He +looked up rather amused. "I think if I were you I should go," he said. +"Mr. Dampier is an exceedingly nice man, and I feel sure you will get on +very well with him; and you will be sure to gain a lot of experience at +a large estancia like the Pichinango." "But what about the trouble in +the rocks," I replied. "I should not like to leave you without seeing +you through; that is if I can be of any help to you." "Well," said Royd, +"I have been thinking things over this afternoon. I can bring Bent and +the remaining sheep down, and join them on to the flock we already have +here. He can then look after them all together. Curiously enough, one of +the letters <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>you brought me is from my friends, with whom I stayed the +other day, who have their estancia on this side of San Josè. They +propose, if things get worse over here, I should take what cattle and +sheep I may have to their camp, and join up with them. They have more +land, you know, than they really want, and it could carry comfortably +more stock than I am likely to have remaining here. At any rate, the +idea seems worth considering, for if this war continues, it might +perhaps turn out to be the best thing to do." "Well," I said, "we will +sleep over it all, and then if you are still in the same mind I will see +about accepting Mr. Dampier's offer." Next morning, we had just finished +our coffee and were walking down to the corral to catch our horses as +usual. "Well, Royd, what do you think about it this morning?" I said. +"Are you still of the same opinion about my going to the 'Cerro'?" "Yes, +I am," he said. "I think it would be a great pity for you to refuse the +offer. I have got some letters to write, and as the diligence will be +passing Quincke's in a couple of days on its way back to San Josè, I +will send the native peon over with them early to-morrow morning. I will +finish the letters first, and then you and I can ride over to the puesto +and see Bent."</p> + +<p>"That being so," I replied, "I think I cannot do better than write a +letter to Mr. Dampier, accepting his proposal, and tell him I will go +over to the 'Cerro' on Wednesday in next week. The peon could leave my +letter at Mr. Dampier's house as he passes by."</p> + +<p>"So be it," said Royd, "and I sincerely wish you all luck and prosperity +in the new departure." So I wrote my letter while I was waiting for +Royd, thanking Mr. Dampier for what he had said to me, accepting his +offer, and saying I would go over to the "Cerro" on Wednesday morning in +the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>following week. All appeared quiet as Royd and I rode among the +rocks to the puesto. Here and there we passed a few cattle, a silver fox +we disturbed ran in front of us for a hundred yards or so, and then +dodged round the corner of a rock, where he probably had his lair. We +noticed the smell of a skunk a little further along. He, too, had been +out and about for his morning exercise. Silence reigned everywhere, +broken only by the shrill cry of the "pteru-pteru," or plover, a cry we +were so accustomed to hear that we hardly noticed it. When we arrived we +found Bent all right, having just come to his house to see about some +breakfast. The sheep were quietly feeding a little distance away. There +was no news. He had heard nothing; nor had he seen anyone just lately. +His friend had gone away for a few hours to see a native he knew up +towards Guaycoru.</p> + +<p>Royd told Bent he thought he had better come down with the sheep to the +estancia, leaving the puesto for the time being unoccupied. This seemed +to please him rather than otherwise, and it was settled he should come +down with his belongings on the following Monday, and Royd promised to +send up the native peon to help him to drive the sheep. Anything he had +to leave behind could remain in the house, which he could lock up, +bringing the key away with him, and whatever there was could be sent for +later. I also told Bent about Mr. Dampier's offer to me, at which he +seemed somewhat amused, although his good manners prevented him saying +all that was perhaps passing through his mind. Royd and I then rode +round by the pulperia at Guaycoru to see if by chance we could hear +anything which might afford us a clue as to what had become of our +missing cattle; or indeed, of the stolen sheep. Early next morning the +native peon rode off with Royd's letters for the Swiss Colony, and I +gave him mine <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>to deliver at Mr. Dampier's house as he passed. On the +Monday following he and Francisco made an early start to go and help to +bring down the sheep from the puesto. The latter rode his chestnut pony +and hoped to enjoy the ride.</p> + +<p>The sheep travelled down well. Bent brought his two horses with him, +riding one and leading the other as a pack-horse with his things. "Bob," +of course, followed, greatly interested, behind the sheep; indeed, he +seemed to enjoy the excitement of making the move. "Napoleon" gave him +an affectionate welcome, for they had always been friends. On the +Tuesday I put together my things. Royd kindly said he would send the +native peon with me, who could lead the extra horse which was to carry +them, and then bring him back afterwards. Anything I could not take was +put into a big box, which was to be sent to Saballa's pulperia by the +first cart which might pass, whence I could easily get it brought on to +the "Cerro." I took my Colts revolver and all my cartridges with me, +also my "Service" rifle, which I had given to me just as I was leaving +England, and I found I could pack all I was likely to need for the +present quite easily in two large bundles, which could be fixed on +either side of the "recado," on the led horse. The peon took a large +pair of saddle-bags for me on the horse he rode, and I had a smaller +pair on mine. Wednesday morning, June 15th, proved fine, the sun shining +in a clear sky. So I bid adieu to Royd and Bent and Francisco, and with +many good wishes from them all, mounted "Carnival," accompanied by +Napoleon, and duly followed the native peon who, with the pack-horse +behind him, had already made a start. And so I bid adieu not without +regret to "Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo," for I had been very happy there, +and as I passed along my way it seemed to me, at any rate for the time +being, a step into the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>great unknown. When we arrived at the "Cerro del +Pichinango" I was received by an Englishman called Robinson, who acted +as cook and general caretaker inside the house. He soon got me some food +and coffee ready, and he also found something to eat for the man who had +come with me. There were three peones, or out-door servants about; an +uncle, and two of his nephews. They were natives of Uruguay, but by +parentage were Indians of the Pampas, which also showed very clearly in +their countenances. I wrote a message to Royd on a piece of paper, which +I gave to the peon for him, just to say I had arrived all right. +Meantime I had unsaddled "Carnival," and tied him up in a grass-covered +court or enclosure, surrounded by a high stone wall, where there were +also several trees and two large iron gates at the bottom, which were +usually kept locked. The house itself certainly looked imposing. It was +built the whole width of the upper end of the court, and was divided +into two parts by a high stone archway, the front of which stood level +with the court, while the back led direct into the large "galpon," or +wool-shed, which was joined to the house its full length behind, with +two large openings on its outer side, closed by wide wooden doors, both +ends being quite shut in. The house had nine rooms, large and small; +four on one side of the open archway, which was shut off from the galpon +by a door in the centre, and five on the other. Each had a large window +overlooking the court, protected outside by thick iron bars. First came +the kitchen, with a door leading direct into the open, and a bedroom +above, for the cook; then, the dining room, with two large windows +opening on the court; next, a small room, with a little iron stove +called the gun-room, and next again a bedroom; each having a window +looking on the court. This bedroom had also a door opening into the +stone archway. On the other side of this were five rooms, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>all leading +one into another; but the fourth had a door opening on the court; while +the fifth room was called the visitors' room, and had a large high +window in the middle of the end of the house, which gave abundance of +light, although it, too, was heavily barred. This room was comfortably +furnished, while from the others on this side of the archway the +furniture had been mostly removed, one of them being at this time used +as a storeroom.</p> + +<p>The whole house was an "azotea," having one long flat roof throughout, +all round which was a low battlemented parapet with open spaces, between +where you could place firearms for self-defence in the event of a siege +or an attack from outside. Out of the dining room was an inside passage +and ladder leading to the roof, which was removable, having a small +shelter or covering built over it at the top. The roof itself was +carefully tiled and cemented, collecting all the rain-water which fell +upon it, and carrying it through pipes into the large Alhibi, or +reservoir, carefully tiled, which stood in the middle of the court. Here +the water remained quite cool in summer, an ample supply being collected +during the rainy weather, sufficient to last the whole year.</p> + +<p>There were no wells or springs, for the house stood high on an eminence +overlooking the surrounding country, the ground all round being of a +rocky nature, the surface soil in places having scarcely any depth at +all; indeed, nowhere near the house was it at all suitable for either +crops or cultivation.</p> + +<p>During the afternoon I had one of the tropillas of horses brought up +into the corral, and we collared "Carnival" to a nice little grey mare, +so that he could go out to feed with the other horses. But he could not +escape back again to the rocks, as he certainly would have done had he +been left loose. The mare, however, seemed very considerate and good to +him, and he afterwards became quite fond of her. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>Napoleon, too, seemed +to settle down easily into his new surroundings, and it was not long +before he obtained control over the three or four mongrels who barked at +him on his arrival. I took a little walk round the establishment during +the afternoon, and had a look over a small flock of "southdowns" which +fed near the house, and were shut up into their sheep yard at night, +surrounded by a stone wall. They were now feeding with their faces +towards home, and were generally looked after by one of the Indian boys.</p> + +<p>As I walked along through the long grass, a brace of partridges got up +close to me, and flew away straight in front of me. Had I taken a gun +with me they would have been an easy shot. Behind the "Cerro" the +country seemed to roll away into distance, like the waves of the sea, so +characteristic of the Pampas of South America.</p> + +<p>As I returned I climbed up to the top of the group of rocks just behind +the house itself, enclosed by a stone wall not by any means in good +condition. From there the country on one side appeared rocky and broken, +with a valley running down at right angles, where apparently stone had +been got out of a kind of quarry, near which I could see two or three +stone erections, which might be either huts or temporary shelters. Far +in the distance were woods which seemed to border a river. This I found +to be the river Pichinango, which was the boundary of the estate on that +side.</p> + +<p>I had some dinner at sundown, and then enjoyed a quiet pipe, and thought +over the events of the day. Later, I fixed up my things in the bedroom +joining the archway, in the corner of which latter I placed an old +wool-bag I found lying about, for Napoleon to sleep on, and I too went +to bed, asking the cook to be sure and call me in good time in the +morning. I slept soundly, and the air felt fresh and keen when <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>I went +out into the courtyard not long after sunrise, where I was +affectionately greeted by Napoleon, who seemed very pleased to see me +again. The Indians were already sitting round their fire in the galpon, +sucking Matè, and Robinson was busy in his kitchen, preparing the early +coffee. The first thing I did was to have the horses belonging to the +"Cerro" brought up into the corral, so that I might look them over. They +were a mixed lot, some seventy in all, and varied greatly in colour and +appearance. But this was only to be expected, and there were some useful +horses among them.</p> + +<p>A little before eleven, Don Frederico Dampier rode up from his house, +"La Concordia," situate at the other end of the estancia. I saw him +coming so went out a little way to meet him. His well-knit but spare +figure looked remarkably well on horseback. We first took a turn +outside, and Don Frederico pointed out certain things which needed +attention. We then went inside, and he gave me the keys of two large +cupboards which contained linen and household necessaries. He also gave +me a book called the "log-book," in which I was to write down anything +which happened, and also the work which was done each day, as it passed. +By this time, Robinson had got ready some breakfast for us, after which +we mounted our horses and rode round a troop of cattle called the +"tamberos," or tame animals; supposed to come up to their "rodeo" every +day before sundown. However, as a matter of fact, they were quite as +wild as the larger herd, and it was some little time before I got them +well under control. We then went on to two of the puestos, each in +charge of a puestero, or shepherd, who looked after his flock of +something under three thousand sheep. The first puesto we came to was in +charge of a "basco" named Laborde, who had emigrated, while yet young, +to Uruguay, from the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>Spanish shores of the Bay of Biscay. He was a +fresh-coloured, good-tempered looking man, still in middle life, and he +seemed cheerful and comfortable with his wife and three children round +him. He gave us many particulars about his flock; how they were getting +on, etc. He had been with them most of the morning; had just ridden home +to get something to eat, and was going out to give them a turn towards +home a little later on. He said he had not been troubled by soldiers, +although he had noticed small detachments passing towards the Sierras, +but they had not come near either the flock or his puesto. We then rode +on to the second, kept also by a basco, called Martin, the number of +sheep being more or less the same as the one previously visited. Martin +was a fine, robust, good-looking man, in the prime of life; very alert +and intelligent, and apparently well-versed in the ways of estancia +life. We passed alongside his flock as they were quietly feeding; and we +looked over three large points of cattle, and also some mares and colts +as I accompanied Don Frederico a little further on his way home.</p> + +<p>I then bid him farewell and rode back direct to the Cerro, and with one +of the Indians got the tamberos, before-mentioned, up to their rodeo in +the afternoon, keeping them there about three-quarters of an hour as a +matter of discipline, and then as the sun fell towards the horizon on +the late autumn afternoon the little flock of Southdown sheep drew +towards home, to be shut in their sheepyard for the night. So I took the +opportunity of looking them carefully over, and making a correct count +of them; they were just over three hundred, so that I might the more +easily become aware, if by ill-luck any should be missing.</p> + +<p>The old cook, Robinson, had gone through some exciting experiences in +his earlier life. When <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>little more than a boy he sailed for the +Southern seas in one of "Green's" whaling ships, fitted out for a three +years' cruise beyond Cape Horn, in pursuit of the sperm whale. This was +then a very profitable occupation. From captain to cabin-boy, everyone +had a share in the results of the voyage, and when the good ship +returned, fully loaded with her valuable cargo of sperm oil, she had a +great welcome from her owner, who often went down to greet her arrival +in Plymouth Sound. Eventually he rose to be a first-class hand aboard; +indeed, it was his office to throw the harpoon, as he stood upright in +the bow of the boat, into the whale, an act requiring not only courage, +but also great judgment and skill. It was only upon rare occasions that +the old man could be induced to talk of his sea-faring days. A kind of +gloom always seemed to lie behind them all, and it was but by a mere +chance that I happened later to find out what it meant. Like so many of +the sea-faring class with him drink was the trouble, and after a bout of +it he would sometimes fall into a kind of delirium, talking incessantly +to himself, yet hardly aware of what he was saying. It seems he had been +wrecked on the northern coast of New Zealand in the days of long ago, +and there he had lived with a Maori tribe, and had wedded a Maori +spouse. Then came a war with a neighbouring tribe, who proved +victorious, and he saw his wife tomahawked before his eyes, while he +himself was unable to render her any assistance.</p> + +<p>Following this, he fled into the bush, where he subsisted on fern-root, +and anything else he could obtain, until by great good fortune he +managed to signal and attract the attention of a passing vessel, who +lowered a boat and took him off.</p> + +<p>He then worked his way back to England, and afterwards went out to the +Falkland Islands Company, at Port Stanley.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>Finally, he came over to Uruguay, drifted to the "Cerro del Pichinango" +during the war of "Oribé," where he had remained ever since. So long as +all went well, he was attentive to duty inside the house; clean and tidy +in preparing the meals; indeed, never happier than when fully employed +with his scrubbing brush and an ample supply of soap and water. One of +his great pleasures was to hoist the Union Jack on the small standard on +the top of the azotea on feast-days and holidays, when he would again +lower it at sunset, the same as he would have done on board ship. His +failing compelled me to keep all Caña, or white rum, under lock and key, +although I was instructed to deal him out his daily allowance twice +during the day; when the sun got over the fore-yard, as he was wont to +express it, and at sundown. Outside he chiefly employed himself in +chopping and splitting up wood for the stove in the kitchen, with his +two axes, of which he took great care, and of which he was apparently +very proud.</p> + +<p>We happened to have a spell of fine weather during the first few days +after I arrived at the "Cerro," so I was enabled to see things generally +better than I could otherwise have done.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>PART II.</h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">El Cerro del Pichinango.</span></h3> +<br /> + +<p>The Cerro del Pichinango comprised something over sixteen thousand +acres, on which fed twenty thousand sheep, two thousand head of cattle, +and three hundred and fifty horses. The sheep were divided into seven +flocks, not counting a small flock of Southdowns at the Cerro. Each +flock had its own area of camp, over which to feed, and was located at +its own "puesto," where its "puestero," or shepherd, lived and looked +after it. The cattle grazed at will all over the estate, which was quite +open, without fences of any kind, here and there, in large groups, and +often in small points of twenty or thirty animals. There was good +pasturage, and abundant water. The river Rosario, which bordered the +estate on the West, did not run in a straight line, but curved in its +course, while at the South-West corner it took a much larger curve, +forming almost a semi-circle, and here the woods were wider than +hitherto. All this gave the scenery quite a park-like aspect, which was +very attractive. On the Southern side the river Pichinango did the same, +the woods which bordered its banks being even more beautiful, hung with +creepers and flowering plants, the river winding peacefully in between. +Here, too, fish could be caught, and the carpincho, or water-pig, was +able to enjoy himself undisturbed to his heart's content. Moreover, a +considerable stream called the Cañada Grande, passed right through the +centre of the estate, running for the most part clean and pure over a +stony and rocky bed. La Concordia, where Mr. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>Dampier lived with his +family, was situate at the opposite end of the estancia to the Cerro. +The house stood on elevated ground overlooking the river Rosario, and +its woods on the west, while towards the south it commanded a distant +view of the Swiss Colony, with its red-roofed houses and patches of +arable land between. On the right were the wide and beautiful woods +which bordered the banks of the river Pichinango, where it joined the +Rosario, at which juncture of the two rivers a broad rincon, or corner, +was in itself quite a feature of the landscape. To the left the +grass-covered plain, with here and there a large bed of tall thistles, +rolled away for some four miles to the northern boundary of the +estancia. The house was modern and comfortable: built on three sides of +an open "patio," or court, which you entered through iron gates, and the +drawing room spacious and airy, with its three large windows coming down +to the ground, occupied the whole length of the house at the back. On +the left and in front was the flower garden, divided by a carriage +drive, which led out past a lodge to the open camp. The "peones'," or +servants' quarters lay to the right, forming a square, in the centre of +which was a large "euremada," or shed, with four open sides, used for +tying up horses under and for the "peones" to seek shelter from the sun +during the "siesta."</p> + +<p>Further away was the "corral," or yard, in which to shut up horses, and +beyond again were the sheepyards. There was also a considerable area of +cultivated land, where maize, and potatoes, and "alfalfa," a species of +clover, flourished, as did a large quantity of fruit trees, planted all +round an open space, used for the production of vegetables. Winter had +now come, and the weather had become stormy, with cold nights and cold +winds from the South.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>I was out in the camp pretty continually, nevertheless, visiting the +various puestos, and turning inwards the cattle, especially on our +northern boundary. When fine enough I had the Indians at work mending up +the walls of the sheepyards, which were made of loose stones piled one +upon another. These had been greatly neglected at the "Cerro" and needed +building up and repairing, as many gaps were to be seen. Three of the +gates, too, required attention. After a week, however, the weather +improved, so a "para rodeo" of the cattle was arranged for the next day +but one, which was a Saturday. We had our horses tied up the night +before, and were all ready for a start just before sunrise, Don +Frederico and his party coming up from La Concordia just about the same +time. The rodeo, or meeting-place for the cattle, was situate in a +direct line between the Cerro and La Concordia, about half a mile +distant from the former. It had the usual big post planted in the +centre, round which the cattle revolved, and the ground all round was +quite bare of herbage, evidently well trodden by numerous animals. We +had help from three of the puesteros, especially from one named +Marmasola, who not only came himself, but brought three boys with him, +all well mounted. Laborde and Martin arrived from their own side, +accompanied by two or three dogs. I was riding "Carnival," who had now +settled down at the "Cerro," having attached himself to the little grey +mare with one eye, to which he had been collared on his first arrival. +"Napoleon" was in great spirits, paying no attention whatever to the +couple of mongrel terriers who followed behind him. He was quite aware +that serious business was on foot. I got over with the Indians to the +north-western corner of the estancia, and we spread ourselves out, +driving the cattle before us. Some of them seemed inclined to break +back. This was easily prevented, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>and I found it much easier to do this +here, where it was all open camp, than it had been at the Sierras de Mal +Abrigo, when hindered and surrounded by large masses of rock. Don +Frederico came up from his side with a good deal of help; so altogether +we made a very satisfactory "para rodeo." I had no experience of dealing +with cattle in such large numbers, nor was I surprised to find that care +was needed to keep them all together on the "rodeo," when we got them +there. I felt pretty sure, however, that by bringing them up constantly, +and always keeping them up some time when collected, we should soon get +the herd under complete control. Don Frederico brought with him a Mr. +John Jennings, who was living with him at La Concordia. He was a good +Spanish scholar, and an excellent accountant, fond of gardening, and was +much occupied at the time with the cultivated land there, to which I +have before alluded. His figure was decidedly burly; he had a +good-natured face and thin legs. He did not look well on horseback, as +he appeared too heavy above the saddle, nor was he really much of a +rider. Upon this occasion he bestrode a very dark grey, somewhat low in +condition, and not apparently up to his weight. They both came up to the +Cerro for breakfast: some mutton stewed with rice, hot coffee and camp +biscuits; all very acceptable after the morning's gallop. I let go +"Carnival," and had a little bay horse, with a white blaze and two white +stockings caught up, and when they returned I rode with them as far as +La Concordia. Here I stopped for awhile, and then rode over into the +Swiss Colony to arrange some business which had to be attended to; nor +did I get back to the "Cerro" until about an hour before sunset.</p> + +<p>Curiously enough, since my first arrival, but little seemed to have +happened in regard to the war. Every now and again a party of Blanco +soldiers <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>would ride up, have some food, and go on their way. They did +not take our horses, for these were as yet plentiful, and probably they +had better ones of their own. The Colorados had not come our way at all, +being mostly concentrated near Monte Video, the capital, while a fairly +large force were also encamped in the province of San Josè. Meanwhile +the Blanco army was said to be in great strength out beyond Paysandû, +waiting for finer weather, and until the horses should pick up after the +somewhat early winter. Spring, when it came, advanced rapidly. The days +soon seemed longer and the weather warmer. We had a good deal of +sheep-working on hand, as the flocks came up from the "puestos" to the +Cerro, to be passed through the sheepyards, when it was our custom to +get through one flock in a day. Don Frederico generally rode up to see +how the work progressed, bringing two or three "peones" from La +Concordia, as this winter there was a certain amount of foot-rot among +the sheep, which needed attention. Fortunately, however, this was never +really bad at the Pichinango, as a great part of the camp lay high, and +therefore dry, covered with a hard kind of grass, which grew profusely +between the longer tussock-grass. The flocks near La Concordia, however, +fed on lower ground, but they were passed through the sheepyards there, +when I went down from the Cerro, taking two of the Indians with me to +assist. And so the days passed on one much like another, until the sun +began to shine longer, and the weather to get warmer when at length we +began to realise that summer was not far off. Some four weeks passed +without anything particular happening, and then came the branding of the +calves, always an event of supreme importance on a large South American +estancia. First there was a general "para rodeo" of the cattle, and then +they had to be shut up in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>the large stone enclosure, or "manga." Our +native neighbours had to be advised beforehand of the appointed day, so +that they might be present to see if any of their animals were by chance +mixed up with our herd. I also obtained the services of three or four +natives in the neighbourhood, known to be good camp men, <i>i.e.</i>, skilled +in the management of cattle, and especially so at this particular work. +When the appointed day came round, it proved fine and fortunately there +was but little wind. We all made an early start from both ends of the +estancia, and were well on our way when the sun rose in a blue sky. +Having plenty of horsemen, the cattle came up particularly well to the +rodeo, where we kept them revolving round for quite half an hour, and +then by driving a point of tame cattle in front of them, we managed to +get the entire herd inside the "manga" without much difficulty. They did +not quite like the operation; odd animals would try to break away, but +they were quickly brought back, and they looked to me a very large +number, when once inside the stone enclosure; far larger than I had ever +seen shut up together before. Meanwhile two big fires had been lighted +to heat the brands, and all being ready, two natives entered the "manga" +on horseback with their lassoes, and one by one caught and easily +brought out the calves. And so the work progressed, until quite a large +number of calves had already been marked. Then came the time for +breakfast. A young cow was lassoed and killed, its hide quickly taken +off, and the meat cut up into large joints, and placed before the fires +to roast. Biscuits were handed out, also farinha, a kind of +coarsely-ground flour, grown from a plant in Brazil. The neighbours +appeared, each mounted on his best horse, with such silver on their +reins and headstalls, bits, stirrups, or "recados," as they happened to +possess. They <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>mostly wore a gay-coloured summer "poncho," a +broad-brimmed felt hat, black bombachos, or very loose trousers, tucked +into long boots, often ornamented with heavy silver spurs, so that the +whole scene looked quite picturesque. After breakfast there was a short +pause, and then the work went on, and it was between three and four +o'clock in the afternoon before all the calves were branded. The herd +was now let go, and quickly dispersed, doubtless, very glad to be once +more free—now that their knocking about was at length over. And then as +evening drew on young women made their appearance, riding up on +horseback, dressed in their best clothes, and a couple of musicians +turned up anxious to have a meal and to earn a few coppers. Music was +heard on every side, and it was not long before a dance on quite a large +scale was in progress, and apparently greatly enjoyed. Meanwhile the +moon rose and shed its silver light upon the scene. The evening was fine +and warm, and it was after eight o'clock before the company dispersed. I +watched the scene from the flat roof of the Cerro with much interest and +amusement, for it was all quite new to me. However, before half-past +nine o'clock all was quiet, the Indians in the galpon had already gone +to sleep. I heard old Robinson snoring loudly in his room above the +kitchen, so I locked up the doors and retired to my bedroom with the +feeling that all had gone off well; indeed, to me it seemed to have been +nothing less than quite an exciting and altogether satisfactory day.</p> + +<p>Early in November shearing began, which, on an estancia, is the big +business of the year. It took place at the Cerro in the large "galpon," +and suddenly, as it were, the old place began to assume an air of +importance and activity. Old Robinson, who managed the wooden wool-press +during shearing, and for the time being abandoned the culinary <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>art, +started to get all ready, another cook taking his place. Mr. John +Jennings, usually known as Don Juan, came up to take charge inside the +woolshed, being a man of knowledge and experience, while I superintended +the work outside, such as getting up the sheep so that there were always +sufficient ready waiting to keep the shearers going. The afternoon +before shearing was to begin a gang of fifteen shearers arrived on +horseback. They were rather a rough-looking lot, indifferently mounted. +I had half a dozen of their horses collared, and the others, which were +poor, and in bad condition, were turned out to feed with them. These +shearers were supplemented by other natives in our neighbourhood, and by +those of our own people who knew how to shear, so that quite a good +number were ready to commence the important work. A number of sheep were +brought into the yards, and passed up into the small pens, which ran +along outside the galpon, facing the two wide wooden doors. Two men were +ready, waiting to catch the sheep: tie their legs and lay them on the +floor, ready for the shearers. To each shearer, as he finished his sheep +a little tin token called a "lata" was given, these being counted, and +entered up in a book in his name at the end of the day and week. Most of +the payment in money being made at the end of the time. As the wool was +shorn it was gathered up and carried to two large wooden tables, where +it was roughly classified according to quality. It was then put into +long bags, made of a thin open canvas material, which were pressed in +the wooden wool-press before being packed into the carts, which carried +them away. The shearers had all to be fed with their proper allowance of +rations, a matter requiring care and attention, and sheep had to be +slaughtered each morning, and every now and again a fat cow, as they +managed to consume quite <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>a large amount of meat. Don Juan was very +good-natured and pleasant to do with. He thoroughly understood how the +work should be carried on, and how best to control shearers, and as I +was glad to assist him in my spare time, I was able to gain a good deal +of useful experience which might not otherwise have come my way. +Shearing could only go on during fine weather; after rain the sheep had +to get quite dry again before they could be shorn. When this happened, +as also in the evenings, Don Juan would instruct me in book-keeping, and +in writing Spanish, both of which I was well aware would be of value to +me as time went on. Day succeeded day, and fortunately during the second +half of November we had an exceptionally fine spell of weather, without +it being unduly hot. So the shearing of the sheep made good progress. +Don Frederico Dampier, who rode up from La Concordia nearly every day, +seemed very pleased to see how things were going; indeed, the second +week of December found us finishing up the last of the sheep. One +afternoon Charles Bent came over from the Sierras for a short visit, +which was a great pleasure, as I was able to hear how Royd was getting +on, and how things were going over there, and if many soldiers were +about. He appeared mounted on his best horse, a good-looking light +brown, with a white star on his forehead, and a white stocking on the +off hind leg, also a few white hairs at the root of his tail, apparently +in the pink of condition. He told us that Royd had now removed all his +remaining stock to his friend's estancia near San José, where he seemed +to have settled down, and to be quite happy. Nothing now was left at the +Sierras, and the place was to be handed back to its owner very shortly. +Bent said he himself intended to go back to his relatives, up towards +the Rio Negro, so we persuaded him to prolong his visit to the Cerro +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>before doing so. He lent a hand inside the galpon, gave out latas to +the shearers, and saw to various little matters needing attention, so +both Jennings and I were very glad to have him with us during the last +days of the shearing. When it ended it was a not unusual custom for the +day following to be kept as a general holiday before the company finally +dispersed, and the shearers took their departure. Don Juan, who was +quite <i>au fait</i> at this kind of thing, thereupon arranged that on this +day there should be a grand race, in which Bent proposed to ride his own +horse, and a native, who had a "rosillo," or roan, he fancied very much, +whom the natives generally thought a lot of, offered to ride his horse +against him. The course arranged, was to be from the Cañada Grande, +opposite Laborde's puesto, up to the Cerro, which was about a mile and a +quarter, more or less. Both riders accordingly paid much attention to +their steeds, giving them a daily ration of maize, and morning and +evening exercise. Of course, there was a good deal of betting amongst +the people in the galpon, for the South American Spaniard is a real +gambler at heart, and the race was a much more exciting affair than the +games of cards and dice throwing, etc., which habitually went on among +the shearers during the evening when work was over. Don Juan, too, had +always been fond of a bit of racing, and did not hesitate to back Bent's +horse, which he pronounced the best of the two, supposing always he was +able to stay the course. It was somewhat a stiff one, and longer than +usual, the ground rising considerably during the last part of it. Bent +considered this to be to his advantage, as his horse, accustomed to the +Sierras, went exceedingly well over uneven ground, and he felt quite +confident he should win the race. On the appointed day the weather was +fine, and, as it happened there was no <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>wind. The start was to be at +eleven o'clock, and I was one of those chosen to see it made, and to +send the horses and their riders on their way. Both apparently looked +all right as they jogged quietly down to the starting point. Quite a +crowd had collected to see the finish. Everyone wore their best clothes, +and the old Cerro for the moment looked quite gay. It had seen many +events and happenings in its time. A first-rate start was made, and the +horses got away quite even. Then Bent's horse took a slight lead, but at +the end of half a mile, to our great astonishment, suddenly collapsed, +shivering all over, and breaking out all at once into a thick lather of +white sweat; indeed, for four or five minutes he could scarcely stand, +swaying all the time to and fro on his legs, like a drunken man. I did +not know the least what had happened, but Jennings, who was well up in +these matters, at once stated his opinion that the horse had been got at +early that morning by one of the natives, who must have given him some +poison, probably the leaves of a shrub which grew on the banks of the +river Pichinango, for he said all the symptoms were just those which the +leaves of that plant would produce, and he had known it done more than +once before. These began to pass off during the afternoon, and the horse +to recover; indeed, by next morning he looked as if nothing had been the +matter with him. Of course, however, nothing could be proved: the stakes +had to be paid over, and the bets, which were mostly in favour of the +rosillo, had to be paid also. I myself had bet nothing on either horse, +so I was no loser, for, unlike Jennings, as a matter of fact, I really +had no taste for racing. There was, of course, a good deal of +excitement, and some quarrelling, in the galpon during the evening—more +especially as that day, being a general holiday, there had been a +certain amount of Caña on the go; but Don Juan managed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>to quiet things +down. Then the night came, and as it always does, overshadowed all +things. The next morning all the shearers, having received payment for +their work, mounted their horses and departed, and the old Cerro once +again resumed its usual aspect of quiet and dignified seclusion. The old +year passed peacefully away, and the new one came in with all its +possibilities and all its hopes and fears. Meanwhile, Mrs. Dampier and +the children had returned to La Concordia, from their visit to Monte +Video, which really had been prolonged longer than they expected.</p> + +<p>This was chiefly owing to the war, which made the long journey less safe +than in time of peace, and there was always the danger of having the +horses taken as you travelled through the open country. Don Frederico +had gone into town to return with them, taking two peones with him, and +quite a large tropilla of horses. People generally in disturbed times +travelled by the diligence, which plied to and fro pretty regularly on +the "Camino Real," or Government road—but it was a most uncomfortable +mode of conveyance for a lady with children, so in spite of the risk it +was preferable to travel in one's own carriage, with a good supply of +horses and a reasonable escort. Fortunately, all went well, and they +reached home safely without any trouble or contretemps of any kind.</p> + +<p>During the middle of January the weather became very hot, and work had +to be suspended from twelve until two o'clock as a matter of course, and +very often longer, for in those good old days, as they were called, the +custom of keeping the siesta during the summer months held sway over the +length and breadth of the republic. The old Indian, Feliciano, who lived +in a little house built of stone down below the big manga, was a +wonderful old man. He looked after the flock of rams, and was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>now quite +old; a true Indian of the Pampas, both in appearance and character, and +his son, Juan, who was up with me at the Cerro, must have been himself +well over fifty years of age. Old Feliciano himself was extremely silent +and reserved. I don't think I ever heard him speak more than three or +four consecutive words at any one time. But he was most scrupulous in +the performance of duty in regard to looking after his flock, which was +never neglected under any circumstances whatever. He had been years at +the Cerro, where for a long time it was impossible to get him to live in +any kind of house. He preferred to live in a "tolda," a shelter made of +mare's hides, stretched over a light wooden frame, as did the original +Indians of the Pampa, from whom he sprang, and among whom he was reputed +to have been a leader or chief. As the sun set below the western horizon +he would walk to some little rise of the ground, where he could better +see it, and facing it, fall down on his knees and say a short prayer. He +did not like being observed, but I have myself watched him do this when +he was not aware that I was within sight. He had descendants living +round him to the second and third generation. He was said to have been a +famous horseman in his time, as indeed were all his race, for they +practically passed their whole lives on horseback.</p> + +<p>I had been riding a brown horse, with a wall-eye, and some white hairs +in his tail; he was not much to look at, but I found him to be +sure-footed and comfortable, and a good horse among cattle. There was a +little chestnut, too, which was very pleasant to ride. The Indians had +horses of various sorts and colours, which they had been accustomed to +ride themselves. Among these was a little rosillo, or roan, which I +noticed Justiano liked to saddle up frequently, particularly when work +amongst cattle was going on. He was not much to look at, being <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>small, +with rather a hollow back, and he seemed to me poor in condition, and to +be overworked. Moreover, I saw that he had a nasty sore underneath the +recado, one day when he was being unsaddled, so I took pity on him, and +told the Indian not to ride him in future, as I would try to dress the +wound, and if possible get it well. So I washed it myself, night and +morning, applying a solution of tincture of arnica, and it soon began to +mend. The horse, too, improved in condition by a little rest and freedom +from pain. When the wound seemed nearly all right again, I saddled him +up with my English saddle, and took him out for about an hour. I enjoyed +riding him; he was so full of go; but at the same time docile and quiet. +When I saw Don Frederico, he told me his history. One afternoon at the +end of the Flores War, a soldier rode up to La Concordia, and asked for +a fresh horse. "I cannot think what has come to this one," he said. "He +is a real good one, but no sooner did we cross the river Rosario, coming +from the Swiss colony, than he seemed to collapse all at once. He has +come nearly ten leagues (30 miles), without shewing any sign of being +tired." Don Frederico himself came out at the moment, and looked at the +horse. "I can tell you," he said. "The rosillo has our mark, and so soon +as he crossed the river he knew he was on his own camp, where he was +born. He must have been caught as a 'potro,' or colt, and have been +tamed by the soldiers. Except that he carries the mark of this estancia, +we none of us know anything about him. However, go to the kitchen and +get some refreshment, and we will give you another horse, and doubtless +the rosillo will be glad enough to find himself at home again." No +sooner, however, was he let loose, than he gave two or three neighs of +joy and then he trotted off, straight up to the Cerro, and joined the +horses there, so we <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>could only conclude he must have originally been +caught and taken from the Cerro end of the estancia. Such was his +history, and I now saw after him myself, and took him for my own riding. +He was a real good little horse, and I liked him more and more as time +went on. Napoleon liked him, too, and used to lie down beside him when I +had him tied up under the "ombu" tree, which gave so good a protection +from the sun in the courtyard, and then as evening came I let him loose, +so that he might join the other horses, and feed and enjoy himself to +his heart's content.</p> + +<p>As it happened, since the New Year, no soldiers had passed the Cerro, +nor had we heard any news of the war, but I was quite prepared to look +upon this as merely an interlude, and we kept a good look out, +especially in the early morning and late evening. So soon as the hot +spell passed, and the weather became cooler, our first business was a +gathering together of the horses. This meant a general sweep up of +everything in the shape of a horse on the estancia: the riding horses at +La Concordia and the Cerro alone excepted, for these were brought up +into the corral each morning, in accordance with the daily routine. +There were two large "manadas," or troops of mares with foals at the +Pichinango, one called the "saino," or brown, and the other the "moro," +or dark blue roan; these being the colours of the respective stallions +which presided over them. These "manadas" usually fed quite apart, on +different portions of the camp. They each made up a large number, as +they included not only yearling foals, but both colts and fillies of two +and three years old, although the former of these usually cut themselves +off from the main body, forming small points feeding by themselves. To +gather together so many horses and keep them in control a good many +horsemen were needed, so nearly everyone who could ride <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>joined in. +Marmasola, who had a small lot of mares of his own which fed on the +estate, was in great force with his sons and two other native friends. +Laborde and Martin were always ready to help, and the Indians were +delighted at the prospect of a really first-class gallop. I got a man +called Pedro Lima, living in the Swiss Colony, but really himself a +native, and a first-rate camp man, to come and take charge of the +operation of getting all the horses shut up in the big manga; not an +easy matter unless they were skilfully handled; and I asked him to bring +two or three of his native friends well-mounted with him. In accordance +with camp etiquette, I sent round to our native neighbours, inviting +them to come and join us, as we intended branding some foals, so giving +them the opportunity to come and see if any of their animals were by +chance mixed up with our horses. The appointed day proved fine, and we +were all in the saddle before sunrise, old Robinson alone excepted. We +had arranged to join up with Marmasola and the party from La Concordia +and so form a continuous line, driving everything in the shape of a +horse straight in front of us in the direction of the Cerro. It must be +remembered that this was a much more critical job than gathering up the +cattle, as the horses could travel as fast or faster than we could. +Moreover, when dealing with them in large numbers, care and good +management were a real necessity if they were to be shut up inside the +manga at all. I rode "Carnival"; the Indians were mounted as they liked +themselves; "Napoleon," although he was no use, would not be left +behind. Don Frederico and Mr. Jennings and their people joined us at the +place appointed, as did Pedro Lima and his friends, as well as the +puesteros, when plans were laid down and instructions given all round as +to how the work was to be carried out. Don Frederico, who was a +beautiful rider, was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>mounted on his gay rosillo. He always rode on a +recado, with silver mounting in front and behind; he had silver fittings +to his bridle, and chain reins for a little way, just where they joined +the bit, then made of well-worked and softened hide, with silver rings. +He wore long boots, silver spurs, and carried a light summer poncho +across his saddle in front of him. Altogether, a picturesque figure!—a +true estanciero of the old régime—nor do I think he was ever happier +than when he felt his best horse under him, and work of this particular +kind was the order of the day.</p> + +<p>Jennings, on his dark grey, cut a different figure; he did not look the +genuine camp man at all, neither was he in the slightest degree; and it +was easy to see that work of this kind was not congenial to him. +Marmasola and his boys were in great spirits. What he did not know about +horses was not worth knowing, although he himself was not a great rider; +advancing years were beginning to tell their tale. But he had been +through the war of Oribé, generally known as the Big War. He remembered +the traditions of "the past," and as he had now been on the estate for a +great number of years, certain privileges were accorded to him; but at +the same time he would spare no trouble and was always willing to do +anything he could to benefit the estancia and its owner. We all formed +into line on the western boundary, facing towards the Cerro, stretching +out both to right and left, and riding some three hundred yards apart. +We allowed the cattle to go back between us, but drove all horses of +every kind in front of us. Some of the colts tried hard to break back, +and for the moment succeeded, but were eventually rounded up and brought +back within the line. "Carnival" carried me splendidly: he was really +very fast, and at the same time perfectly sure-footed. He made one feel +quite safe even at full <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>speed, and it was a pleasure to be so well +mounted. Meanwhile, the line kept drawing in, and as the horses in front +of us began to get up towards the manga, Pedro Lima and a couple of +natives, by making a swift detour, got round in front of them so as to +round them up as much as possible, more or less where the rodeo of the +cattle was situate, and so to keep them in some measure under control +until we all came up from behind and were able to form a regular ring +round them. Meanwhile the old Indian, Feliciano, had some half a dozen +tame horses not very far from the open gateway of the manga, and as +these gave a convenient lead to all the others, we got the whole lot +safely inside without much difficulty. This was fortunate, because if +horses in a round-up of this description once succeed in breaking away +in any number together, they are very difficult to get back again, owing +to the speed at which they can travel. Once inside the manga, however, +we were able to look them over at our leisure. There were a good many +foals to be branded, so a fire was got ready. Moreover, breakfast had to +be thought of, and it was not very long before a couple of roasts were +preparing in front of it. We found there were nearly a dozen colts over +four years old which in the ordinary way ought to have been caught up to +be tamed, but owing to the war, it was decided to put this off for a +year, for the reason that a good-looking colt which shewed any signs of +having been handled, was more likely to be taken by soldiers than one +which had been left entirely alone. They were very clever at seeing into +this, even when the animals were feeding in the open camp. We found some +riding horses shut up with the troop which did not belong to the +estancia, but had probably been left behind by soldiers as they passed. +These we caught up and took down to La Concordia, so that they might +meanwhile do such work as they were <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>able. If they could do nothing else +they would be good enough for the puesteros to look after their sheep +on, or for the ordinary routine work of the estancia. It was very +interesting to watch all the horses when gathered together in the manga. +I had never, of course, seen so many collected before, and it was a +pretty sight to watch them and to note their different colours and +characteristics. During the interval for breakfast the two stallions +occupied themselves in having a fight, attacking each other fiercely; +standing on their hind legs and striking at each other with their fore +feet; then they would go round in a circle, each looking out for an +opportunity to strike more effectively. Many of the mares too were busy +picking up their belongings,—as they would often have a foal and a +yearling, and even a two-year-old descendant regularly following after +them.</p> + +<p>It was very interesting to watch them all, and to observes their ways +and manners. There was plenty of opportunity to do this, as after the +foals were branded we did not let them go until between three and four +o'clock. When at last they were turned loose, they did not let the grass +grow under their feet, but soon divided themselves off more or less into +their own lots, and with their own companions. Indeed, had they been +looked up early on the following morning they would have probably been +found feeding more or less together in the same groups, and on the same +particular part of the estancia where we had originally found them. The +weather had now become quite hot again, and we had continual sunshine +for nearly a fortnight. There was a stone puesto about half way between +the Cerro and the "Pass of the Pichinango," where an old negro called +Tio Benigno lived, looking after a flock of sheep. He was now dead, and +the flock had been removed, but his so-called widow, black like himself, +was still living on there, with a numerous progeny <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>of various sorts and +sizes, almost destitute of clothes who ran in and out of the abode like +rabbits, when anyone happened to ride up. They seemed to be living on +the rations which had been allowed to the departed parent, which were +still being allowed to them. Don Frederico would have been glad if I +could have got them to leave the puesto altogether, but the question was +where were they to go? I was riding down to La Concordia during the +siesta when I saw a peculiar sight. As I was about to cross the Cañada +Grande, a short way further up the stream, the black lady was sitting +astride an old dun horse, short both of mane and tail in the middle of a +large pool, with a fishing rod in her hand, apparently intent on +fishing. Of clothes she had none. Such garments as she possessed lay in +a heap on the bank by the water. Her black skin fairly shone and +glistened in the sunshine. On her head was an old black silk top hat, +which also reflected the rays of light. It had doubtless been a gift to +her departed husband from one of the young Englishmen who might have +been staying at the Cerro, presumably with no idea, however, that it +would be put to its present use. The lady saw me pass, but did not +appear in the least to mind. She simply gave a broad grin, and leaving +her to pursue her peaceful occupation, I passed on my way. Not very long +afterwards someone who had known her husband asked her to go and keep an +eye on quite a small lot of sheep, and also to act as "lavandera," or +washer-woman, as well. So I persuaded her not to lose the opportunity of +changing her abode, and gladly sent a cart to move such belongings as +she had. Indeed, I was glad to have the puesto empty, for it was in the +direct route along which soldiers would pass coming from the town of +Colla, and going north, and it seemed better that they should have the +road clear in front of them. Rumour in time of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>revolution was always +busy, and it was said that the Colorados intended for some reason best +known to themselves to fall back before very long from the province of +Colonia, and join up with their main force in the province of San Josè. +Should this prove correct, it seemed probable that a portion of the +Blanco army, which, during all this time had been steadily concentrating +up beyond Paysandû, would seize the opportunity to occupy that province +themselves. That being so, it seemed obvious that open hostilities, +which had now for some time seemed far away from us, would come much +nearer. The fact was it was impossible to foresee what lay before us in +the future, and all we could do was to carry on as well as we could for +the present, and hope for the best.</p> + +<p>Up to now we had certainly been very fortunate, for our horses had not +been taken; all had gone on very much as usual; nor had there been any +interference either with our sheep or cattle. There happened to be two +colts among the horses at the Cerro nearly five years old: a bay and a +brown, and I determined to have these tamed. One was the foal of the bay +"madrina" mare, and the other had joined the troop on its own account. +They were both accustomed to come up each day into the corral, and to +see people about, nor had either of them led the wild life of the open +camp. So there was every reason to suppose they would prove docile, and +I did not trouble to look out for a regular "domador," or horse-tamer, +as I thought that Juan, the Indian, would manage, with the help of his +nephews, both of whom were good riders. The rough and ready system of +taming in the old days consisted of lassoing a colt in the yard, tying +him up to a post for the night, and next morning saddling him up with a +"recado," with the "cincha," or broad hide girth, as tight as possible. +A narrow piece of hide nicely softened <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>was then tied twice round the +lower jaw, to which the reins were attached, a couple of pieces of soft +sheepskin were fastened over the framework of the recado, while the four +legs of the animal were tied together by a "maneador," or long thong of +hide, in such a manner that by giving one pull it would all come loose +and fall to the ground. The colt was then untied from the post to which +he had been made fast, and up got the rider, who was going to give him +his first gallop. Two men were ready on horseback, one on either side, +while a third man on foot gave the thong round the horse's legs a sharp +pull, when it fell loose. Usually the colt would make a wild rush +forward, the two horsemen keeping each as close to him as they could on +either side, so as to steer him in a straight line. Old Juan was now +over fifty, nor was he a regular tamer; but he could still sit tight on +a horse which did not buck-jump too hard or too long, and there was +always the chance that he would not buck-jump at all, but just bolt off +across the open camp. With the bay colt even this did not happen, for he +merely lunged forward at a sort of uneven trot, wondering very much at +finding anyone on his back. Then he stopped, unwilling to proceed, which +Justiniano quickly made him do by a free application of his whip. +Eventually he made his first gallop all right and came back apparently +having had quite enough of it. That evening the brown colt was tied up +as had been the bay, and the same procedure was followed in the early +morning. Unfortunately, however, he buck-jumped rather badly, so soon as +he was mounted and let loose, and he gave Old Juan a bit of a shaking, +but he did not do it for long, and the Indian was able to sit tight and +give the colt his first gallop, bringing him back quite sufficiently +subdued for one day at any rate.</p> + +<p>The gallops went on each morning, with both <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>the colts for about ten +days, by the end of which time not only was there no more buck-jumping, +but they were beginning to get handy even to the extent of answering the +pressure of the rein on the side of the neck, and of turning in some +measure as required.</p> + +<p>Juan was quite proud of his performance, and began to imagine he was a +young man again and a regular horse tamer. Moreover, an extra allowance +of Caña, or white rum, of which he was always fond, and at once took +effect upon him, made him talk most amusingly of all the colts he had +tamed in his early life, and the wonderful things he had done. At the +end of three weeks, both the colts were bitted and could be ridden +either by Margarito or Justiniano, and it was not long before they were +able to take their place among the tame horses.</p> + +<p>Attached, as they were, to the tropillas, they were as likely to be +taken by soldiers as colts as they would be when tamed, for they would +know well enough that young horses among their surroundings were not at +all likely to be difficult to break in. I had been lately riding a +"manchado," or piebald horse, which had been bred and born town of +Colla. He had not much to commend him, but he was easy and quiet to +ride. A sad story was connected with him. Between two and three years +previously a young Englishman of good position who had come out to have +a look at the country, was staying as a guest at the Cerro. One day he +rode the "manchado" over to the little country town of Colla. He had not +much to recommend him. Returning late at night, he unsaddled the horse +in the small yard, just outside the stable. He then took off the bridle, +and then, not thinking what he was doing, gave the horse a hit with the +reins on his quarters, to drive him out of the yard. The horse kicked +out sharply with both hind feet, one <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>hoof catching him just under the +throat, and the other at the pit of the stomach. He fell senseless to +the ground, and must have remained unconscious for some time. When he +came round, he managed to crawl into the galpon and awake the Indians, +who, as usual, were fast asleep. They gave the alarm, and a messenger +was sent in all haste for a doctor, who was then living on a small place +he had beyond and to the eastward of the Cerro. He kindly came over at +once, and applied such remedies as he could, but to no purpose, for the +poor young man during the morning again became unconscious, and late in +the afternoon passed quietly to his rest. It was indeed a sad business, +and what made it worse was the thought of how easily it might have been +avoided. The "manchado" used to rear a bit at times, but not really +badly, and I never knew him show the least sign of kicking during the +time I had anything to do with him. Later on, I handed him over to +Justiniano, who always gave his heels an uncommonly wide berth, and +eventually he was taken by a party of soldiers, and we saw no more of +him. About a week later I had occasion to ride over one afternoon to the +pulperia on the other side of the pass across the river Rosario, +opposite to Marmasola's puesto. I called in as I passed to enquire if +there was any news, and I saw his wife, who told me her husband was out +with the flock. Reaching the pulperia, I found the owner, a tall +good-natured looking man, at home, and we soon arranged the business +about which I had come. He then told me that towards the end of the +previous week Mamerto Gomez, a captain in the Red army, was coming out +of the town of Colla with a troop of Colorado soldiers, on his way +towards the province of San Josè. A short distance beyond the furthest +houses a poor cripple sat by the side of the road begging. Mamerto +halted as he passed, and turning to one of his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>soldiers, said, "Mata me +aquel Bicho amigo," "Friend, kill that reptile for me," whereupon the +man got off his horse and cut the poor cripple's throat from ear to ear. +Leaving the dead body by the roadside, Mamerto Gomez and his troop +passed on their way as if nothing had happened. I asked the pulpero if +he had ever seen Mamerto, and what he was like? "Yes, Señor, I have seen +him two or three times," he said, "and not long ago"; and he at once +gave me particulars as to his appearance. Of course, I had no difficulty +in recognizing him as the same Mamerto Gomez I had first seen at the +Pulperia de Guaycoru, when the old negro said to me, "Cuidado, beware!" +and as the man who had been seen entering the Sierras de Mai Abrigo, +whom Royd had always believed to be the real cause of all his trouble +and ill-luck, viz., the sad death of poor Henriquez, and the stealing of +Bent's flock, and the attempt to break in to his puesto at night. I +called at Marmasola's as I rode back, and found him in, and, as usual, +we discussed the war. He, too, had heard that the Reds were leaving +Colonia, and thought it would not be long before the Blancos turned up +there in considerable force, when he thought it likely we might have +parties of soldiers coming our way, as we should then be in the direct +line of route between them and the concentration of their main army out +towards Paysandû; so there was pretty sure to be a certain amount of +coming and going. He also told me a story of two young Englishmen who +came out to Monte Video during the Flores War, with the intention of +making their way up country. They started to ride out from there alone, +without any guide, and very foolishly, before leaving the city, they +drew a considerable sum of money from the bank, which they carried out +with them. They reached San Josè all right, and the following day +proceeded on their way in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>direction of the Cerro del Pichinango, +where they intended to pass the night. They stopped at a pulperia, or +store, for some refreshment about eleven o'clock, where there happened +to be about a dozen natives, among whom were four or five of very bad +character. Such was the account given to the police, who afterwards made +enquiries. Whether they let these men know they had money with them +nobody ever knew. They were known to be dressed each in a light tweed +suit, with a large check pattern on it. The two young Englishmen were +never heard of again, but a long time afterwards pieces of the cloth +they were said to have been wearing were found in the wood on the +further side of the river Rosario, not far from the pass which led over +to the Estancia Pichinango. The conclusion come to was that three or +four of the natives got on in front of them and attacked them, probably +just as they were about to enter the pass, which was rather a wide one, +and having shot them, either dragged or carried the bodies into the +wood; of course, taking the money and everything they possessed from +them. Whether or where they buried the bodies, of course, was not known. +So much time having elapsed, it was impossible to make further +enquiries. They had simply vanished—and being war-time, it was supposed +that anything might have happened to them, for at that time in the camp +murders even in broad daylight were by no means uncommon.</p> + +<p>Marmasola always assumed a very serious aspect when telling this story, +which usually ended by his sitting down on a "banco," or low wooden +stool, and drawing the size of the check pattern on the garments of the +deceased on the mud floor with the point of his knife, at the same time +saying in a solemn tone, "Los dos pobres finados caramba!" "Alas, for +the two poor dead men!"</p> + +<p>I allowed him to finish without interruption, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>and then I mounted my +horse and rode home to the Cerro, pondering on the many vicissitudes +which it seemed possible might happen to the unwary during life in +war-time in a South American republic. Nothing had happened during my +absence. We got the "tamberos" up to their rodeo, and kept them there +awhile, and when I got back the little flock of southdowns were about +ready to be shut up in their sheepyard for the night. I looked them over +to see that they were all right, and then I went up on to the flat roof +of the house to have a good look round with the glass, and so see if all +was quiet. The sun meanwhile was about to set, and it was not long +before the light began to fade, and one more day had passed and was +gone. When next I saw Don Frederico he discussed the situation, and said +he thought it would be wise to sell a certain number of the "capones," +or wether sheep, which were now in good condition, and also to get a +tropero, or buyer of cattle of good position to come and purchase as +many "novillos," or bullocks, as we could get him to take, as by so +doing we should not only lessen the stock we had to look after on the +estancia, but it would do away with the risk of losing them. The +"capones" chiefly fed together in one flock near La Concordia, with a +certain number in two of the other flocks, so there need be no delay in +having them parted out so soon as we could arrange with a purchaser. So +he decided to attend to this within the next day or two. Meanwhile, if I +heard of anyone likely to purchase up in my direction, I was to let him +know. He also said he would write to one or two of the troperos, who had +been accustomed to buy novillos from us, informing them that we had a +good number for sale, and asking them whether they would be able to make +up a troop. It was not long before two buyers of sheep applied at La +Concordia. A day was fixed for parting them out, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>I went down early +with two of the Indians to help to pass the flock through the +sheepyards. The purchasers happened to be friends, so agreed to part +both together on the same day, and divide the sheep between them +afterwards. Altogether they took between six and seven hundred, and +after they had finished we helped them over the Pass of the Rosario, +facing the Swiss Colony, where they intended to shut them up for the +night, before continuing their journey to the town of Colla, where one +of them resided. During the following week we passed the other two +flocks through the sheepyards at the Cerro, drafting out all the capones +and sending them down to the flock at La Concordia to replace the sheep +there which had been already sold.</p> + +<p>Early in the following week, a little before eleven o'clock, a tropero +arrived at the Cerro, and enquired if he could see Don Frederico, as he +wanted to buy some "novillos." I had been out early on horseback, and +had not long returned, and was just about to have some breakfast. I told +him that he was at La Concordia, at the other end of the estancia, and +invited him to come inside and join me, which he seemed pleased to do. +He had a peon with him with a led horse in addition to the ones they +rode, whom I directed to get something to eat in the galpon. The tropero +was grandly dressed in full native costume, a beautiful summer poncho, +bombachos of very fine black merino, tucked inside long boots, the +latter adorned with large silver spurs, and I noticed he was fully +armed. He was an agreeable man, evidently well educated, and he told me +he had two other men and a tropilla of horses in the neighbourhood who +had gone to look at some bullocks at a small native estancia. Breakfast +over, I left him to finish his coffee and smoke, while I went out to +tell Justiniano to catch me up another horse. I then offered to +accompany him as far as La Concordia, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>so that if Don Frederico happened +to be out, I could have him sent for with as little delay as possible. I +gathered the tropero wished to make up quite a large troop, en route for +Monte Video, and as we had a good many animals to sell, I did my best to +make conversation. Fortunately, when we reached La Concordia, we found +Don Frederico at home. The tropero's credentials were quite satisfactory +to him, as was the price offered. It was therefore agreed that he should +part out and purchase all the novillos on the estancia which he thought +old enough and in sufficiently good condition to take. We on our part +undertook to have all the cattle gathered on the rodeo on Thursday +morning, so that he could part out his bullocks, and to help him to the +best of our power—payment, as usual, to be made on delivery. The +business concluded, the tropero had a glass or two of wine and departed. +He said he had plenty of horses with him for his men. I then rode back +at once to the Cerro, and sent off one of the Indians to advise our +native neighbours and the other round to Laborde, Martin and Marmasola, +to inform them at their puestos of what we had arranged, so that they +might give help as usual. We tied up horses on Wednesday evening, and +made all ready for an early start. I rode "Carnival," the Indians, too, +were fairly well mounted. We met the party from La Concordia, Don +Frederico riding his rosillo, with two big dogs following him, and +Jennings mounted on his dark grey; he seldom rode anything else. The +tropero and his men did not take part in gathering the cattle, but +joined us at the rodeo, near the Cerro, mounted on their best horses, +while the others they had with them were meanwhile feeding not far off, +with a boy in attendance, to look after them. The cattle came up well, +and just as we got to the rodeo, Pedro Lima arrived with a couple of +natives, and also three or four of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>our neighbours beyond the Cerro +turned up, so we had plenty of help to keep the cattle well under +control. Don Frederico and the tropero came up to the house for some +coffee and a biscuit, but we were soon back again, when the work of +parting out the bullocks at once began. A point of tame cattle had +meanwhile been brought up to a suitable position a short distance from +the herd. These were guarded by Juan, the Indian, with his two nephews +to help him. The tropero was mounted on an "oscuro," or black brown +horse, and his two men rode one a grey and the other a bay.</p> + +<p>He began by riding in among the cattle with one of his men, singling out +a suitable bullock, and then the two together, one on either side, ran +it out into the point of tame cattle, where it had to remain whether it +liked to or not. Then a second bullock was run out, and so on, one after +another, until quite a good number were parted. One of the tropero's men +now went to help the Indians to guard them, as every now and again one +would try to escape, intent on rejoining the main herd, and occasionally +a bullock would break loose and make for the open camp, determined to +fight hard for liberty. But it was not to be! for the men were +well-mounted and knew their business, and the horses knew theirs. They +were, of course, faster than the bullocks, and when an animal was +desperate, and really refractory the lasso came into play, and he was +brought back his energy spent, and having been well bullied about he +generally thought it better to keep quiet for the time being. A really +good horse for work of this kind must be safe and quick on his legs, and +have plenty of courage. Indeed, the best thing the rider can do, if well +mounted, is to sit tight and leave as much as he can to his horse, who +seemed to know all that was expected of him, and was seldom found to +fail.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>It was now eleven o'clock, seventy-five bullocks had been parted; each +one being counted as it went by two people. So a fire was lighted, and a +large "asado," or roast of mutton, put on, a little coffee and sugar, +some biscuits, farinha and yerba, for the men's Matè were brought down +from the Cerro, and it was not long before breakfast was ready. When up +at the house I let "Carnival" go, and saddled up the rosillo, who was +now in first-rate condition. Work was resumed with as little delay as +possible, and when the tropero announced it was time to stop one hundred +and sixty bullocks had been parted. The tropero seemed well satisfied, +and so were we. Our next business was to give him every assistance to +get the animals outside the boundary of the estancia, where they would +be easier to manage than they were on their own camp. Meanwhile we kept +the tame animals with the novillos which had been parted, to give them a +lead and so render them easier to drive, and we made a start towards the +pass of the Rosario, beyond Marmasola's puesto. There being many of us, +we had no difficulty in getting them across the pass, and when they had +gone a short distance on strange ground we parted out the tame cattle, +and I returned with them to the Cerro. Don Frederico and Jennings, also +the tropero, rode to La Concordia, to receive payment and give the usual +certificate, shewing the mark and number of the animals sold, this +document being required for the police. The sun was now declining fast +towards the horizon, and we had made a fairly long day. Supper, when it +came, was welcome, and the pipe which followed it; and having duly +recorded particulars in the log-book, I was not sorry to lock up and get +early to bed. Autumn was now past, and it would not be long before +winter, with its rain and storm, cold nights and early mornings, would +be really upon us. I had three cart-loads of wood <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>brought up from the +"monte," where we had some men working. Some of the flocks had to be +passed through the sheepyards, and what with attending to one thing and +another, I always found the day pretty fully occupied. Ten days later a +party of Blanco soldiers rode up and asked if they could have some food, +and also fresh horses. They were on their way to the town of Colla, +having passed not far from Guaycoru, as they travelled from outside. +With them was Colonel Mallada, who had sent back Francisco's pony at Las +Sierras de Mal Abrigo. He had a great reputation among the natives as a +fighter. When I went out I found him sitting on his horse, surrounded by +some twenty soldiers. I invited him to get off and come in and have some +breakfast while the soldiers lit a fire at a little distance, and made +themselves a roast outside, for, as it happened, we had a whole sheep +hanging in the galpon, ready skinned and dressed. I was amused to see +the attitude of the Indians when the Colonel passed through into the +courtyard. They stood up together on one side, as it were, at attention, +with a very solemn expression of countenance, and they evidently looked +upon him as a man to be feared rather than loved. He was quite civil +during our meal, and told me that a large division of the Blancos were +coming down to occupy the province of Colonia, while the main army was +now largely concentrated outside, waiting for a favourable opportunity +to march in to the province of San Josè, and so on towards the capital +itself. He seemed to enjoy a cigarette with his coffee after our meal, +and a glass of Caña also met with approval. Meanwhile, I had told +Justiniano to get all the horses up into the corral. I had "Carnival" +tied up under the ombu tree in the courtyard. The Colonel himself was +well-mounted on a good-looking grey, apparently quite fresh. The +soldiers caught five of our horses, and left us three tired ones, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>so we +did not get off so badly after all, and I was very glad to think that +the rosillo, whose back I had cured, was not among them. They all rode +off, apparently satisfied, towards the Pass of the Pichinango, and we +were all glad to see them depart. But it made me think, and realise what +now might at any time happen, and I determined to have the rosillo +caught up and tied in the courtyard oftener than I had done, and to keep +a sharp look-out over "Carnival." At two of the puestos the shepherds +were each somewhat of a character in their way. They were both of them +"bascos," <i>i.e.</i>, either natives of or having originated from one of the +Bay of Biscay provinces in Spain. One of them, whose name was Gaitan, +looked after what was known as the "Fine Flock," because it contained +the highest strain of Negretti blood. From it were selected the male +lambs, which were to be the future rams for the other flocks. He was now +no longer in middle age, bent in figure, and slow in his movements. He +lived quite alone, doing his own cooking and washing, and he wore +remarkably old clothes. He had been for many years on the estancia, +getting the usual pay of a puestero, viz., fifteen dollars and +thirty-six cents per month (just over £3), together with his allowance +of meat and rations, viz., farinha, yerba and salt, which he received +monthly. His only luxury was a little tobacco, and he was said to be +somewhat of a miser, and to be quite rich. He was usually seen +bestriding an old and rather poor horse, but he was a very good +shepherd, and except when cooking or eating his meals, or towards +evening, when his sheep were drawing home, I never knew him to be long +absent from his flock. He was extremely reserved and silent, and I +always found it difficult to carry on a conversation with him. His +puesto was situate to the north of La Concordia, rather towards the +centre of the estancia, and really not very far <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>distant from the +former. The other shepherd was called Anjel; he was a much younger man, +although he looked older than he really was. He, too, was reserved and +silent, and I often wondered if it was the solitary life he led which +tended towards this, and whether he would have appeared a somewhat +different man if he had been cast among other surroundings. He had +neither wife nor child, and like Gaitan, was but a poor rider, and I +never saw him on a decent-looking horse. But he had usually a dog with +him, and I often saw a cat or two when I visited his puesto, situate +close to the river Pichinango, some little distance below the pass. Here +the grass was good and plentiful, and his flock, which was rather a +large one, did very well. He was a most careful and conscientious +shepherd, and a skilled worker in wasca, or raw hide, of which he +manufactured reins and headstalls, and whips and hobbles; indeed, +everything of the kind a well-equipped horseman would require. Just +about this time I did not happen to be very busy, so was able to shoot a +few partridge, more correctly described as "quail," which were now in +good condition, and made a pleasant variation in diet. There was a +little single barrel gun available, which I found very nice to shoot +with. I also managed to shoot some of the common deer of the Pampas +(Cervus Gampestris) with my rifle, the flesh of which is not very +appetising, but the skins were easy to dry and soften, and were not only +useful as a covering for my "recado," or native saddle, but also served +well as rugs for the floor of the sitting-room. The natives mostly chase +the deer on horseback with dogs. There is a very curious peculiarity +attaching to the young of this species of deer when not more than three +or four days old, when the perfection of its instincts at that tender +age seems very wonderful in a ruminant. When the doe with fawn is +approached by a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>horseman, even when accompanied by dogs, she stands +perfectly motionless, gazing fixedly at the enemy, with her fawn at her +side. Then suddenly, as if at a preconcerted signal, the fawn rushes +away from her at its utmost speed and, going to a distance of perhaps +six hundred yards, conceals itself in a hollow on the ground, or among +the long grass; lying down very close, with head stretched out +horizontally, and will thus remain until sought by the dam. When very +young it will allow itself to be taken, making no further effort to +escape. After the fawn has run away the doe still maintains her +statuesque attitude, as if to await the onset. Then, but only when the +dogs are close upon her, she too rushes away; but invariably in a +direction as nearly opposite to the fawn as possible. At first she runs +slowly, with a limping gait, and frequently pausing as if to entice her +enemy on, just like a partridge, duck, or plover when driven from its +young. But as the dogs begin to press her more closely her speed +increases, becoming greater the further she succeeds in leading them +from the starting point. Truly a marvellous combination of both instinct +and sagacity, and also of maternal love.</p> + +<p>Winter was now come, and we had a spell of cold and stormy weather, with +a fair amount of rain. I was out in the camp and round the puestos +pretty constantly, to see that the flocks were all right, and that there +had been no trouble from soldiers. One afternoon I called at La +Concordia to see Don Frederico, as I thought it advisable to have three +of the flocks passed through the sheepyards, to part out sheep which did +not belong to them, and have their feet attended to. This was necessary +from time to time, as during bad and stormy weather a certain amount of +mixing was apt to occur, however careful the puestero might be. It was +obviously more difficult to prevent where the land over which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>one of +the flocks was accustomed to feed lay in the same direction on the +estancia, and not very far distant from the land occupied by another. +Don Frederico told me he was making arrangements to send Mrs. Dampier +and the children on a visit to England, and that he was already in +communication with the shipping company about taking their passage. His +idea was that they should go into Monte Video about a week before the +steamer left, and that he would drive them himself in his own carriage +with horses and a couple of servants, while their luggage could be sent +in a cart to San Josè, and on from there by diligence to Monte Video. +The visit to England had been thought of some little time, but, as, +owing to the war, things seemed to be getting more and more unsettled, +he thought it better not to delay longer than was necessary. He spoke to +me about two or three matters needing attention, and said that Jennings +would remain at La Concordia during his absence, and would help me in +any way should anything of consequence happen, or an unforeseen +difficulty arise. When I got back, I found old Robinson in a very +unsatisfactory state; he had evidently got hold of some Caña, but how I +could not imagine, as I always kept it securely locked up. He talked a +lot of nonsense about being tired of life at the Cerro, and of his +determination, although he knew he was an old man, to go off somewhere +or other, he did not care where, with a view to bettering himself. I +concluded this phase would be a passing one, and by next morning he +would be himself again. However, when it came, he was both dull and +disagreeable, and although he had always been subject to occasional fits +of the kind, I felt that his present state of mental irritation and +unrest really proceeded from something more than his having drunk a +little more than was good for him. I enquired of the Indians if anyone +had been to see <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>him. Margarito had seen no one, but Justiniano said he +had been looking up the "tamberos," and as he was riding back he saw +someone in the distance come out of the door of the kitchen, mount a +horse, and ride off towards the Pichinango; and he thought by the way he +rode he looked like a "gringo," the native term for a foreigner. +However, next day Robinson seemed better, and the little household +disturbance for the moment at any rate passed over. At the end of the +week seven Blanco soldiers rode up and asked for food and horses. They +had evidently come a good distance, and were en route for Colonia. They +had four tired horses, which they left with us, taking the two horses +previously left by soldiers, and two of ours as well. However, they were +quite civil, and one of them told me we might expect to have a good many +more coming our way before long. "Carnival" and the rosillo happened +both to be tied up in the courtyard, nor did they trouble the least +about them. Old Juan, the Indian, mostly kept himself out of sight when +soldiers arrived. I suppose he had a sort of idea they might take him +off, as they probably would have done had he been younger. I noticed he +was always very talkative, and apparently in extra good spirits when +they had gone. After about a week the bad weather cleared up, and it set +in fine and dry. I went down to La Concordia the afternoon before Don +Frederico and the family were to leave for Monte Video. Everything was +now ready; the luggage had been sent on two days previously, and they +were to make an early start the following morning, which happened to be +a Wednesday. It turned out a lovely day for the time of the year, +continual sunshine, with a cool breeze, perfect for travelling. On +Saturday I had our usual para rodeo of the cattle, and they came up +well. Early on Monday morning I started on "Carnival" to ride down to +the far end of the Swiss <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>Colony, whence the land stretched away to the +Estuary de la Plata, which divided the republic of Uruguay from that of +Argentina. I called at La Concordia on my way, and had a talk with +Jennings about the business I had on hand. My object was to see a man, +Emile Gunther by name, who was a buyer of hides and sheepskins. We had a +large number of these at the Cerro, and I was anxious to be rid of them, +as they were apt to get damp and out of condition during the winter. I +crossed the Pass of the Rosario below La Concordia, into the Colony, +following the track which led out of it, gradually rising to higher +ground. Every here and there "chacras," or farms, each surrounded by +more or less cultivated land. Many of the houses were built of bricks, +plastered and whitewashed outside, one storey only, with bright red +tiles on the roof, and they usually had a wide open verandah, very +convenient to sit in, and also to eat one's meals during warm weather. +Each house seemed to have its garden, where vegetables did well, for the +soil was good and easy to work, and it was rare to find one without a +few flowers, while clumps of "eucalypti," the blue gum of Australia, +planted either round or near the homesteads, were almost universal. The +stables and outbuildings were mostly mud-huts, with roofs of "paja," a +reed which was quite common, and very suitable for the purpose. All this +was that part of the Colony which could be seen in the distance from La +Concordia, where the original Colonists had first settled themselves +down and made their homes. As I rode on, I came to a much wider track, +with wire fencing stretched on wooden posts on either side, running at +right angles to the one I had hitherto followed. Turning to the left, I +rode along this in a south-westerly direction, and as I proceeded the +farms got fewer, and further apart, while the land intervening was +thickly covered by a shrub, with a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>small leaf, the knobby roots of +which, when dried, made excellent firewood. Here cattle and horses could +be seen feeding, for the soil was rich and fertile, and where the shrub, +or "chirca," as it was called, was not too thick, good grasses grew in +between. I had no difficulty in finding Señor Gunther's farm, which was +quite an important one, for, in addition to land under cultivation, +where wheat and maize were grown, there were two large "portreros," or +paddocks, fenced in with wire, affording ample pasturage to a +considerable number of stock. Trees of various kinds had been planted, +including fruit trees, and were growing well. There was a little +"monte," or wood of "eucalypti," and some were also planted on either +side of the drive leading up to the house, forming quite a respectable +avenue. The house was an "azotea," one storey high, with a flat roof, +the rooms spacious and comfortable, overlooking on their further side a +garden, with fruit trees and flowers. As I rode up, I was welcomed by +the owner's wife and daughter, who told me he had only gone down the +farm for half an hour, and would soon return. Meanwhile, they invited me +to come in and sit down, shewing me where to tie up my horse. Señor +Gunther, when he came, was a fine-looking man, above middle height, well +set up, apparently about fifty. He looked shrewd and intelligent, with a +pair of keen blue eyes and light hair, already beginning to turn a +little grey. "Buen dia Señor" (Good morning, Sir) he exclaimed genially, +as he came up to shake hands. "I have heard of you." "I, too, am equally +pleased," I replied in Spanish. "What a nice situation you have, and how +well the trees must have grown!" "Yes, indeed they have," he said, +"considering the time we have been here." He said he had a number of +milk cows, and had already made a fair amount of Swiss cheese, which +sold well, and he had reason to think <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>it would prove profitable, and +hoped to increase it. He told me to unsaddle and turn out my horse into +a small paddock close by, and invited me to stay and have some +breakfast, which would be ready in half an hour. "After this," he said, +"if you have sufficient time to spare, I would like to show you round +the farm." Our meal was enjoyable, and he pressed me to drink some +excellent muscatel wine of a rich golden colour, which he had himself +purchased, and brought out from Monte Video. Coffee and cigarettes +followed, and he had evidently become able to surround himself with an +amount of comfort by no means easily attainable on some of the estancias +outside. Of course, we discussed the war, and I then spoke to him as to +the business about which I had come. Finally, it was arranged that he +should purchase all the hides and sheepskins at the Cerro at the price I +asked for them, and he was to send a cart and fetch them away in about a +week. He told me they were fortunately situate in regard to soldiers, +being out of their track, and that scarcely any seemed to come their +way, nor did he think they were likely to unless anything unforeseen +occurred. After a turn round the garden, he went and had a look at +"Carnival," whom he seemed to admire. I told him I had brought him from +the Sierras de Mal Abrigo, where he was bred and born, and that I was +greatly afraid lest the soldiers should take him at the Cerro, as we +heard so many were coming our way it seemed hardly possible he could +escape. He then said if I cared to leave "Carnival" with him I was +welcome to do so, and he would do his best to look after him, at any +rate until the worst of the trouble we were looking forward to should +pass over. I gladly accepted this offer, with very grateful thanks. My +host suggested I should saddle him up now, when taking our turn round to +farm, and then just have a look at the Piedmontese Colony, which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>was +not far distant. He further proposed that on our return I could leave +"Carnival," now he was here with him, and he would lend me a horse to +ride home on, which could be brought back when he sent a cart for the +hides, etc. I gladly agreed to this arrangement, and we made a start +forthwith. A peon was ploughing on the arable land, using a somewhat +heavy plough, drawn by a yoke of oxen. It was a slow business, but had +the advantage of turning up the soil fairly deep. The milk cows and a +small flock of sheep were feeding together in one large paddock, while +some nice-looking young stock and the horses were feeding in the other; +besides these was a small flock of fifteen goats, the milk of which I +concluded was used in the manufacture of cheese. Near the house was the +usual corral to shut up animals, and attached to the outbuildings which +were roomy and convenient was a well-arranged dairy.</p> + +<p>We were not long in reaching the Piedmontese Colony, which at that time +consisted only of one pulperia, or general store, and half a dozen +houses, more or less near it. From there the land which stretched away +towards the river Plate was mostly covered with "chirca," and evidently +at that time but sparsely occupied. You could just see the smoke rising +from the chimneys of perhaps a dozen mud ranchos, a considerable +distance apart, evidently in possession of people only recently settled +there, who as yet had not had time to do much in the way of agriculture. +However, I was glad to have a chance of seeing the country, and I +wondered as we rode back what kind of future might possibly lie before +it. Returning to the house we had some coffee and little cakes served +with it. Meanwhile, a chestnut was ready tied up, on which I was to ride +home; not very attractive-looking, but good enough for the purpose. +Indeed, in time of war I had learned that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>a good-looking horse was a +certain care and an uncertain pleasure. So I bid good-bye to Señor Emile +and his family, with many thanks for their kindness and hospitality, and +the request that should he at any time find himself in the neighbourhood +of the Cerro, he would not fail to call and see me. The chestnut +travelled along quite comfortably, if not very fast, and the sun was +nearly down when I reached home. The first thing Justiniano told me was +that Robinson had departed. Two men from the stonemason's, who lived on +the other side of the Pichinango, had come for him with a led horse, +about the middle of the morning, and old Robinson had put together a few +clothes and belongings and had accompanied them. The craving for drink +had probably been his motive, for the stonemason himself was given that +way, and at his house Caña was generally more or less on the go. Old +Robinson had always kept up a sort of friendship with these people, much +against my wish, for I prophesied they would one day be the ruin of him. +However, the fact I had to face was that I was now without a cook, but +Juan got me some coffee, and supper ready on the fire in the galpon, +which I myself carried into the dining room, and then I smoked a pipe +and thought over my pleasant day. Later I locked all up and went early +to bed. Next morning, when I went out, "Napoleon" greeted me joyfully. I +had left him at home the day before. The Indians got me some hot coffee +at their fire, and after seeing to some things that were necessary, I +saddled up the "mala-kara," or bay, with white blaze and stockings, and +started off to La Concordia to consult with Jennings as to what I had +better do in regard to Robinson's departure. I found him already busy in +the garden pruning the fruit trees, and told him what I had arranged +with Señor Gunther, and how I was now left without a cook. He said he +thought the best thing was to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>leave Robinson where he was; it was no +good attempting to fetch him back, as he would by this time probably be +drunk and incapable, or, to say the least of it, very difficult to +manage. He proposed to send me a nice-looking young Swiss, called +Vicente, who was looking after the "capones," up to the Cerro, to take +Robinson's place, and also keep an eye on the southdowns, and I could +send Margarito down to La Concordia in his stead. Vicente was handy, and +obliging, getting on for nineteen, nor would he at all object to doing a +little cooking and housework if required. Jennings asked me to stay and +have breakfast, which I did, and said he had received a letter from Don +Frederico, written from Santa Lucia, saying all had gone well, and that +so far they had travelled comfortably. We saw Vicente before I left; he +had just come in from his flock. He said he would be pleased to go up to +the Cerro, and would do his best to make things comfortable, and +promised to be there a little before sundown. I then bid adieu to +Jennings, and rode round by Anjel's puesto. He was out with his flock, +and I came across him without having to go so far as his house. He was +silent and serious as usual, but gave it as his opinion that Robinson +"would come to no good with those people over there," and promised, +should he hear of anything further happening, he would manage to let me +know. When I got home, we got the "tamberos" up on to their rodeo. No +one had arrived during my absence, and I sent Margarito down to La +Concordia as arranged.</p> + +<p>Early in the following week, one morning just after ten o'clock, Colonel +Medina rode up to the Cerro, accompanied by seventy Blanco soldiers. I +had met him before, and Don Frederico knew him well, for he lived not so +very far from the Pichinango, and we had always looked upon him more or +less as a neighbour. I at once invited him to dismount and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>come inside +and have breakfast, assuring him it would not be long before it was +ready. As for the soldiers, I said they had better make a fire down +below the house, towards the big "manga," and if one was not enough, +they could make two. Meanwhile, I would have a couple of sheep killed, +so that they could make themselves a roast, as they wanted, and I would +send them down a supply of farinha, salt and yerba, in order that they +might do what a native always dearly loves, viz., have a rest and suck +Matè.</p> + +<p>The colonel was a man of middle height, his hair beginning to turn a +little grey. I daresay he would be getting on towards fifty. He was +well-educated, and had to a certain extent travelled, having held a +minor office in the Blanco Government previous to the Flores war, when +the Reds came into power. Probably, too, he looked forward before very +long to taking office again, when the present revolution should be over, +and the success of his own party assured. He told me he was on his way +to Colonia, where a division of the Blanco army would probably be +concentrated, to hold the province before very long, but that the main +advance contemplated, whenever the proper time should come, was to lay +siege to the city of Monte Video itself, and he believed it would be +quite powerful enough to accomplish this when a really suitable +opportunity should arise. This was certainly good news so far as it +went, but at the same time he warned me that the war was as yet far from +being over, for the Colorados were still fairly strong on the inside +camps, especially in the direction of the capital, where they were able +to command the assistance of both infantry and artillery and also, if +necessary, that of mercenary troops as well. I was greatly interested; +indeed, I felt quite sorry when breakfast was over, and the colonel said +it was time to make a move. Neither he nor his soldiers <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>asked for +horses, having a troop of spare ones in first-rate condition, which they +were driving along with them. We parted with mutual compliments, and +with the usual "Hasta la vista amigo!" (Friend, until we meet again!), +and he further told me that if he could do anything for me during the +changes and chances of war-time, I was to be sure to let him know, +which, to say the least of it, was very civil of him. The soldiers +quickly marshalled up near the door leading out of the courtyard, +through which he passed, and I accompanied him. He then mounted a grey +horse, which was being held ready for him, and gave the word of command +to go forward, and we all watched them jogging along towards the Pass of +the Pichinango, when that little excitement was over. It came on to rain +early in the afternoon, and we got the sheepskins turned over, and put +together again, ready for the purchaser when he should think well to +send for them.</p> + +<p>Early next morning the sun shone bright, and warm, but it did not last +long, for a "pampero," or southerly wind, from the Pampas, blew up soon +after mid-day, and towards evening it became very cold and +stormy-looking. I was able to "repuntar," or turn inwards, the cattle on +the northern boundary of the estancia, and also to visit three of the +puestos, where I found everything all right. The following day a bad +spell of weather set in, with cold winds and constant showers of rain. +However, I kept on the move as well as I could, for it was in stormy +weather that a little supervision was most needed. Vicente was an +obliging young man, and did his best in his new occupation, and he made +me a nice little fire in the gun-room stove, where it was comfortable to +sit after supper, especially after having had a bit of a wetting +outside. Jennings had given me two little bull terrier puppies. They +were an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>amusing little pair about five months old, small in size, with +all the characteristics of a bulldog, except that they were very quick +and active on their legs. One I called "Bully"; he was the colour of +yellow sand, and the other was a brindle, like its mother, and to him I +gave the name of "Brag." As they grew up they hunted the "legatos," a +very large lizard, who lived among the rocks, behind the house. They +also went with me when I took a gun and went after a brace or two of +partridge, and they joined joyfully in the general uproar and barking +when any stranger rode up, or indeed near the house. This was so much to +the good, as it lessened the chance of our being taken unawares as to +what might be coming, always a distinct advantage in time of war. The +rosillo had now quite recovered and greatly improved in condition, and I +often had him tied up in the courtyard, where I gave him a little maize, +which he had learned to eat with satisfaction. I was now able to ride +him with my recado, as well as my English saddle, and I made up my mind +to take all the care I could of him, for the more I rode him the better +I liked him. After about a week the weather became fine, and I decided +to ride in to the little country town of Colla, which lay some nine +miles south of the river Pichinango, as I wanted to go to the "policia," +or police station about some business connected with the estancia. I had +intended to put off going until Don Frederico's return, as I rather +wished to see him before doing so. However, as I understood from +Jennings it was more than likely he would not be able to come home so +soon as he expected, I decided to delay no longer, but to start early +the next morning. I did not want to take a good-looking horse, for I +knew the town would be full of soldiers, so I told Justiniano to have +the horses in the corral in good time, and to catch me up rather an +oldish bay, left by soldiers, nothing whatever to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>look at, but really a +good deal better horse than he appeared, and also to tie up the rosillo +in the courtyard, about eleven o'clock, so that he might be safer if +anyone came. The little town of Colla lay pleasantly situate on the bank +of a small river. It consisted of one main street, with houses unevenly +built, and somewhat scattered on either side. About half way down this +widened a little, forming a small plaza, or square, where a band played +on summer evenings, and people walked round and round, or sat about and +listened to the music, and enjoyed also the pleasure of looking at their +neighbours. There was a Roman Catholic Church, and some rather +sordid-looking barracks, and quarters for soldiers. Half a dozen +pulperias, and general stores, and two or three "fondes," or second-rate +hotels, with here and there a private residence, often enclosed inside a +garden, completed the buildings of any importance, while stretching away +behind these, on either side were the smaller houses and ranchos, +occupied by natives, more or less of the working class. Some of these +had spaces of cultivated ground attached, and at others two or three +cows and a horse or two, and some poultry would be kept, just as +happened to be most convenient. There were plenty of soldiers about in +the streets, as well as in the cafés and fondas. I rode straight up to +the police station, and it was not very long before I was able to +conclude my business. Having done this, I did not go to an hotel, as I +should otherwise have done, to put up my horse and have some breakfast, +on account of the soldiers, but I made my way to the house of a man +called Pedro Dominguez. It was next to a large general store, which he +owned as well, where he carried on an extensive and profitable business, +as a buyer of produce and a seller of merchandise, and had long had +dealings with the Estancia Pichinango. He received me with courtesy. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>A +man below the middle height, getting on in years, and somewhat bent in +figure, he looked to me as much like a Portuguese as anything else. +"Buen dia, Señor," he said, as I rode up and explained who I was. +"Please come inside, and I can put up your horse in my stable." +Moreover, he invited me to have some breakfast, which was very good of +him, for I began to feel hungry after my ride. His house was +comfortable, and he had a good sized garden attached, very well kept, +and he told me he was a great lover of flowers. While we were enjoying +our meal one of the black, hairless dogs, greatly esteemed by natives, +trotted into the room. It was about the size of a small terrier, with a +perfectly smooth black skin, entirely devoid of hair. It had a pointed +nose and a pair of very bright eyes, and they are said to be very +affectionate. Señor Dominguez told me he had a widowed daughter and a +grandchild who lived with him, but just then they were away on a visit +to friends in Colonia. Of course, we talked about the war. He said he +had never taken any part in politics, but his sympathies were with the +Blancos, and he was very glad to think that for the present Colla at any +rate, had seen the last of the Colorados, who he believed as a +Government were self-seeking and corrupt, and he felt sure if they were +allowed to continue in power, would bring certain ruin on the country. +We had some coffee and a cigar, and it was after two o'clock when I +saddled up the bay, and with many thanks for his kind hospitality, +started on my return journey. The old horse travelled back faster than +he had come, and I reached the Cerro somewhat earlier than I expected. +As the sun declined, it got quite cold, and I was glad to find a fire +lit in the gun-room stove to welcome me. Justiniano had got up the +"tamberos" on to their rodeo, and the southdowns were already shut up in +their yard, as I rode up to the house. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>"Napoleon" was delighted to see +me, and even "Brag" and "Bully" gave me a sort of welcome in their way. +I let go my horse, and wrote up the log-book, and so ended what had been +quite an agreeable day. I had the usual "para rodeo" on Saturday, which +was quite satisfactory, and I saw reason to think we were now getting +the cattle well in hand. This was important during time of revolution, +when we were likely to have fewer people to look after them. On the next +Tuesday morning, I had just got in from a turn round the puestos, when +the cart arrived to take away the hides and sheepskins. The Indians gave +the cartman some breakfast in the galpon, and we then counted and handed +over the hides and skins, for which the cartman gave me a receipt, while +I handed to him a certificate that we had sold them. He started for home +about one o'clock, taking with him the chestnut horse, which Señor +Gunther had lent me to ride home on. The cartman told me that "Carnival" +was all right, and seemed quite happy in his new quarters. The middle of +the following week Don Frederico returned to La Concordia. I rode down +to see him, and he said he could hardly believe he had been away nearly +a month. The fact was his family did not leave for England in the +steamer he intended, but waited for the next one, and he naturally +wished to see them safe, and as comfortable as might be on board. I told +him about old Robinson, and he said the arrangement we had made would do +quite well for the present, though later on he should want Vicente back +at La Concordia. Meanwhile, however, I could look about and see if I +could find a cook. The winter was now passing, and every now and again +we had two or three days when the sun would be quite warm, with every +sign of approaching spring. We saw but few soldiers, and they were only +passers-by, anxious to reach the end of their journey as soon as <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>might +be, but we had every reason to believe a considerable movement of troops +would take place before very long. Early in August we had begun to see +symptoms of what is known as epidemia, or sickness among the cattle. At +first a single animal would be found in the camp dead, looking in good +condition, and from no apparent cause. Later two or three might be seen, +and in different parts of the estancia. Then you would find here and +there an animal looking young and even fat, standing by itself, away +from the others, not moving or eating, and with obviously something the +matter with it. If taken in time and got to move quickly, and the +horseman could give it a sharp run, it would probably recover. Should +it, however, have gone too far, all one could do was to kill it, and +take off its hide, rather than let it lie down on the ground and die +slowly by inches. The epidemic went on for some little time, and we lost +a good many cattle, and curiously enough it was much more towards the +Cerro end of the estancia than it was at La Concordia. During this time, +I was constantly out in the camp, looking up sick animals, and I took +Juan and Justiniano with me, to take off the hides when necessary. +Towards the end of the month I was out with the latter having a look +round, and we came across a cow evidently very bad, for it could hardly +stand on its legs and, when I tried to move it, it seemed only to totter +from side to side. I jumped off my horse, handing the reins to the +Indian, and caught hold of its tail with both hands to pull it over. I +pulled my hardest, when the hair came suddenly out of the tail, and +before I could recover myself I fell sideway into a bunch of big +thistles which stood near. Unfortunately, I fell right among them, and +felt one of the stiff sharp thorns pierce the flesh on the inside of my +left arm, just below the elbow. I turned up my sleeve and tried to get +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>it out with my knife but was unable to do so. We killed the poor cow, +and I left Justiniano to commence taking off the hide while I rode back +to the Cerro and sent his uncle Juan to help him. I then had another try +to get out the thorn, but could not manage it. I bathed it with hot +water, and as it was getting a bit painful, applied a hot poultice and +hoped for the best. September came in fine, and towards noon the sun +began to feel quite warm. At the beginning of its second week, +twenty-two soldiers rode up, and said they wanted horses. I saw they +meant business, so I told Justiniano to get all our horses into the +corral. I had the rosillo saddled in the courtyard, so he was all right, +as it was unusual for soldiers to take a horse one had saddled, except +for some special reason, or because they really wished to be as +disagreeable as they could. They were travelling out north, and were +evidently pressed for time. They took six of our horses, including the +"manchado," which had caused the death of the poor young Englishman, and +left us one, an old bay, and he looked a very poor one. However, there +was no alternative, so we had to put up with it, but it gave me a +reminder of what we had to expect. The two colts we had tamed, now +well-behaved horses, they paid no attention to whatever, and for this I +was glad. My arm had become swollen and inflamed, and continued to give +me a good deal of pain, and I was obliged to have it in a sling. It was +rather a nuisance, for it was my bridle hand, but I consoled myself by +thinking had it been my right arm it would have been worse, and as it +was I could get about as usual. One fine morning, about eleven o'clock, +an old negro woman rode up to the Cerro mounted on a rather thin +"gatiado," or drab-coloured horse, with a dark stripe down its back, +from which is derived its name. She had a maiden with her, black, like +herself, mounted on an old grey. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>Each had a rug thrown over her horse, +made fast with a surcingle, on which she sat, and appeared quite +comfortable. The old lady asked me if they could stay for a while, and +have a rest before proceeding on their journey. "By all means," I +replied, and told Juan, who happened to be about, to give them a couple +of bancos, or stools by the fire in the galpon, and I also asked them if +they would like anything to eat. "Pero con mucho gusto, Señor," "But +with great pleasure, Sir," they replied, "and if you could kindly give +us a little yerba and sugar we should greatly enjoy drinking Matè, for +we both feel very thirsty." Juan soon made up a good fire, and put on +the kettle for hot water, and gave them a piece of meat to roast, and +some "farinha," and the ladies seemed quite happy. Later on, as I was +passing out through the galpon, the old one came up to thank me for the +hospitality we had shewn them. "But pardon, Señor," she said, "may I ask +what is the matter with your arm, for I see you have it bound up. I +myself am a 'curandera,' or healer, and I am on my way to see a man who +is very ill. Please let me have a look at it." This I gladly did, and +she told me it was the thorn still in it which was causing the trouble, +but she hoped it might work its way out. She said I must take care of +it, as my arm looked to her rather as if it had been poisoned. She +further said I was to send one of the Indians down to the wood which +bordered the bank of the river Pichinango, and he was to get the leaves +of a certain shrub which grew there. I was to make these leaves into a +poultice and put it on my arm as hot as I could bear it every night for +about a fortnight. Further, I was to put the water in which the leaves +were boiled into a jug and drink it cold each morning as soon as I +awoke. She interviewed both Juan and Justiniano and made them clearly +understand what was the shrub <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>the leaves of which were to be brought: +what it was like, and how and where it grew. She then explained to +Vicente exactly how to make the poultice, and how much of the leaves to +use at a time. Then came the curious part of the would-be cure. The old +lady insisted that I should begin it on the first evening of the new +moon, and at no other time but then. We were all somewhat impressed, the +Indians very much so, for they looked up the "curandera" with a certain +amount of superstitious awe. However, I determined to try the "remedio," +and as there happened to be a new moon that evening I sent Justiniano at +once off to the Pichinango to find the leaves. He returned with a good +supply of them. It was a small leaf, a little larger than the ordinary +tea leaf, and it reminded me very much of the leaf of a small tree known +as the "manouka" tree, of New Zealand. So the poultice was duly made; +the water in which the leaves were boiled was put ready to drink the +first thing next morning, and forthwith the prescribed treatment began. +A few days passed, when one morning, between seven and eight o'clock +fifteen soldiers rode up and demanded horses. The tropillas had not long +been turned out of the corral, so our horses were quite close for the +soldiers to see. There was nothing for it but to shut them in and let +them take what they wanted. I did the best I could, but they took four +and left one, an old gatiado, with a stripe down its back, the same +colour as the one the curandera had ridden. The soldiers only stayed +long enough to get horses, and then resumed their journey, travelling +north. The weather was now getting warm, when one afternoon about four +o'clock, an elderly negro rode up to the Cerro, mounted on a very +poor-looking old "bayo," or cream-coloured horse. The Indians, who had +been out in the camp, were sitting by the galpon fire, sucking Matè. I +was in the courtyard unsaddling the rosillo, whom <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>I had been riding, +but not far away. I heard a great barking of dogs, "Napoleon's" voice +being loud among them; "Brag" and "Bully" were also doing their best to +increase the noise. I passed out through the small door, and there was +an old man, surrounded by the barking dogs, sitting quietly on his +horse, calling out "Ave Maria," the customary form of salutation, and +waiting for someone to ask him to dismount. This I did, and he enquired +if here was the Cerro del Pichinango, and if I would allow him to put up +in the galpon for the night. As for his horse, he said it was worth very +little, and if let go he did not think it would move far away. He looked +tired, and weary, as did his steed, and said what most he needed was a +real good sleep. He had a bundle with him, tied up in a roll at the back +of his old "recado," a battered black felt hat and a much-dilapidated +summer poncho, while some old "bombachos" and a pair of alpargatas, or +canvas shoes, completed his attire. I told him to make himself +comfortable, and left him to rest as I was just thinking of saddling up +the bay colt we had tamed, and riding down to Marmasola's puesto. I +found his flock quite near it, ready to be shut in for the night. He +himself was at home, and he told me that a soldier who had passed by not +long before had told him there had been an engagement some distance out +beyond Guaycoru, and that the Blancos had been victorious, and had +driven the Reds off in full flight to the north of the Sierras de Mal +Abrigo, and so on towards the province of San Josè. How far this was +really true, and whether it was an affair of much importance he did not +know. He thought, however we should all do well to be on the alert, and +promised to send me up word should he hear any further news. Everything +seemed quiet as I rode back: the epidemia among the cattle was now dying +out, and there was only an isolated case <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>now and then, and I was +thankful to think we had been able to get through the trouble so easily.</p> + +<p>My arm by this time had become less inflamed, and much less painful, so +I thought it better to go on with the treatment for a few days longer +than the "curandera" had suggested. When I saw the negro again next +morning he told me he had slept well, and felt all the better for it. He +told me he had passed through a rough time with General Lopez Jordan up +in Paraguay during the war between that country and Brazil. Having +drifted down into Uruguay, he found himself with hardly any money, and +no friends. Had it not been time of revolution, he did not doubt but +that he could easily have got work. He said his nerves had been +completely shattered, and what he wanted was a feeling of security and a +little rest. He asked me if I would allow him to stay on a bit at the +Cerro, as he liked the look of the place, for you had a good view all +round, and could see anyone who might be coming. He said if I would +permit him to stay he would be glad to do anything he could to make +himself useful. I thereupon asked him if he would act as cook. "Pero con +mucho gusto," "But with great pleasure," he replied. When I next saw Don +Frederico he said I had better arrange with the negro, whose name was +Correo, to do the cooking, and such housework as had to be done. Vicente +could then come back to him, as he needed him rather badly. He also told +me I had better take a little boy about twelve years old, a grandson of +the old Indian, Feliciano, to help to look after the southdowns, and to +look up horses, as otherwise I should find myself short-handed. He was a +funny little person, with a pair of sharp-looking black eyes. His father +was said to have been killed in a quarrel during the war, and although, +of course, a relative of Justiniano, he had every appearance of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>mixed +blood. Correo seemed very pleased at the prospect of staying on at the +Cerro, and settled down quite comfortably. He kept the rooms clean and +tidy, and could cook anything that was required. For the next ten days +or so we had sheep-working on hand, and I was kept pretty busy; and we +had the regular para rodeo of the cattle on Saturday as usual, which was +now quite easy to manage.</p> + +<p>A few days later, I started to ride over to an estancia belonging to a +Mr. Trafford, which lay beyond the town of Colla, well on towards +Colonia. My object was to see some rams we needed for the Fine Flock, +and which Don Frederico had heard were for sale there. I rode a dark +chestnut horse, which had been left tired and almost done up by +soldiers, but had now recovered. I preferred taking him to a horse of +our own mark, as I thought it quite possible I might have to pass +through the Blanco lines. Should this be so and they took the chestnut +they would probably give me another in exchange which would do to bring +me home. I was up early and in the saddle just after sunrise. It was a +nice morning, and the chestnut was in good spirits, and went along +smoothly and easily. When I reached Colla I found the place full of +troops, so did not delay, but rode straight on and beyond, being asked +as I passed the Police Station who I was, and where I was going. No one +interfered with me. I stayed that night and over the next day with Mr. +Trafford, who was very kind and hospitable. He had no one with him when +I arrived, for his daughter, not yet grown up, was away at school in +Buenos Aires. His house was comfortable, well-built, and well-arranged, +with a very wide verandah on one side of it. He saw me ride up, and came +forward to welcome me, a thin, tall man, with a somewhat serious +expression, which made him look older than he really was. He kept up the +English <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>custom of having tea in the afternoon about four o'clock, with +bread and butter, cakes, jam, etc., which to me were quite a luxury. +After partaking of this, I had a look over the rams, which were then in +a large paddock not far from the house. They were a nice lot, well cared +for, and in good condition, and on hearing the price I came to the +conclusion they would be just about what Don Frederico required. So I +arranged provisionally to buy twenty of them, and to pick out the ones +we would have in the morning; this arrangement being subject to Don +Frederico's approval. I further proposed he should write to Mr. Trafford +immediately after my return, and so complete the purchase, and then we +could send over to fetch them, as might seem convenient. The following +day I much enjoyed as we rode over the estancia, and inspected both the +sheep and cattle, for, as a matter of fact, Mr. Trafford had, for that +time, some exceptionally good stock. He took great interest in his +garden, which appeared well-stocked with both flowers and vegetables, +and his numerous fruit trees were evidently a source of great pleasure +to him. Next morning, after coffee, I saddled up the chestnut and +started for home. On my way back I passed close to a place where a +Spaniard, who was really a "basco," was driving a good sized flock of +sheep up towards his house. A nice-looking sheep-dog, which looked well +bred, was helping him very efficiently. I pulled up for a while to give +my horse a rest, and I took a great fancy to the dog, for I liked the +way he went about his work. We were getting a bit short-handed, and I +thought a dog like this one would be useful, so I made his owner a bid +for him, just in case he might care to part with him. Rather to my +surprise, the man said he would not mind selling him, but only because +he contemplated leaving where he was to go and live in a town, where the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>dog would be no use to him. The only condition he made was that I would +be kind to him and treat him well. He was black and light tan in colour, +and the true sheep-dog breed, with a nice head and intelligent eyes. The +only fault I could see in him was he had rather too heavy a coat for +work in hot weather. His name was Ramonou. He did not at all like being +taken away from his home by a stranger, and I was obliged to lead him +with a thin thong of hide, fastened to his collar, which I held in my +hand. Fortunately the chestnut was very quiet and tractable, but having +the dog with me naturally delayed my progress, so that it was late when +I reached home. However, there was a moon which shone brightly, so it +did not much matter. "Napoleon," as usual, was glad to see me back. +Nothing had happened during my absence, and Correo soon got me some +supper, and seemed quite contented and happy. Next morning "Ramonou" +seemed none the worse for his journey. I had tied him up for the night +and given him some food, and I now let him loose in the courtyard, just +to stretch his legs. "Napoleon" was not at all quarrelsome, and the two +dogs happily took to each other, and soon became great friends. I had +the bay horse caught up, and started down to La Concordia, as I wished +to lose no time in letting Don Frederico know what I had arranged about +the rams. He was perfectly satisfied, and said he would at once write to +Mr. Trafford. He told me he had heard that old Robinson was lying very +ill over at the stonemason's, from the effect of too much Caña, and he +went so far as to say he was doubtful if he would recover. "You know we +should not like him to die over there," he said; "after being so many +years at the Cerro, we had come to look upon him as almost part of the +place!" "Supposing I send Steff, the Swiss peon, with a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>light cart to +be at Anjel's puesto, say at eleven o'clock to-morrow morning. You might +then send Juan and Justiniano to meet him there at that time, and they +could all three go on together to the other side of the Pichinango. If +there is plenty of 'paja' in the cart and he is well wrapped up, I do +not see why he should not travel all right." So it was arranged; and I +promised to see that the Indians were at the place appointed at the hour +named. As a matter of fact, they both rather liked old Robinson, and +would be sorry for him being so ill, and I felt sure they would do their +best to bring him back with as little suffering as possible. I then rode +back to the Cerro, round by Anjel's puesto.</p> + +<p>When the cart arrived at the Cerro with the poor old man lying full +length in it, I saw at once that he was very ill. We got him out of the +cart and into the kitchen, where we laid him down in front of the fire +and started rubbing his hands and feet, for he really seemed in all but +a comatose condition. After a while he somewhat recovered, and I got him +to swallow two or three spoonfuls of mutton broth made strong and quite +plain. Towards evening he seemed better, and said he wished us to get +him up into his bedroom above the kitchen. He could not speak above a +whisper, but I understood him to say he felt cold, and would rather be +in his own room above the kitchen stove than in one of the larger rooms +on the ground floor. For two or three days he seemed to mend, and then +one afternoon he sank into an unconscious state, and I knew it would not +be long before all was over. He could take nothing whatever, but he +lasted through the night, and passed peacefully away about eleven +o'clock next morning. I sent down at once to tell Don Frederico, and he +sent me word he would have a shell coffin sent up as soon as possible. +During <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>the afternoon we got the remains down from the bedroom and laid +them on a "quatre," or wooden camp bedstead, in the last room but one at +the far end of the house, which had a door in it, opening into the +courtyard, covering the body over with a white sheet. Late in the +evening the wooden shell arrived, and we reverently laid him in it. I +put a couple of screws in half way down, just to hold on the lid for the +time being. The Indians said they would light a candle and watch by the +coffin, and Correo said he would like to take a turn also. It was a fine +clear night, calm and still, with the moon now in its second quarter, +and about nine o'clock I went to bed. I was awakened some three hours +later by a loud knocking at my door. I jumped up, hastily putting on +some clothes, and took up my revolver, which was lying by my bedside. +When I opened my door, leading into the covered archway, there was +Correo, his face an ashy grey colour, gesticulating violently outside, +and begging me to come at once to the room where we had placed the +coffin. He said the Indians who had been on guard were terribly +frightened, because while they were on watch the ghost of the "finado," +or dead man, had appeared, and was then to be seen passing like a shadow +up and down the room. As I went out into the courtyard "Napoleon" came +and put his cold nose in my hand, and the rosillo who was shut in there +for the night, gave a little neigh. I went to the door, opened it, and +entered the room, followed by the negro, who was almost in tears. Of +course, there was nothing, and I showed him the two screws half way down +in the lid, exactly as we had left them. Meanwhile the Indians had fled +and hid themselves in the galpon; the candle they had left lighted was +flickering down in its socket, and the room was in semi-darkness. I with +difficulty persuaded Correo to go to his bed and have a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>sleep, for he +was much upset, and trembling all over, but at last I succeeded. I +thereupon locked the door of the room, taking the key with me, and +returned to my bed for the rest of the night, which passed without +further disturbance of any kind. The next morning, but one, Steff drove +up in his cart with the coffin, into which we silently placed the +remains, and he started at once to convey it to the cemetery in the +Swiss Colony. At the same time I rode down to La Concordia to advise Don +Frederico that it was on its way to its last resting place. When I got +there I unsaddled my horse and tied him up under the euremada before +going inside the house. A little later I was sitting in the dining room +talking to Jennings, when Don Frederico came hurriedly in. "Good +gracious!" he said, "there is Steff crossing the rincon towards the Pass +of the Rosario standing up in the cart and trotting ever so fast. Do go +down and stop him, and tell him only to go at a foot pace." A "moro +rosillo" (blue roan horse) was standing ready saddled outside. I jumped +up on him and went down the high bank behind the house somewhat faster +than he liked. He started bucking as he got nearly to the bottom, and +what with being taken unprepared and only having my right hand on the +reins, I narrowly escaped what might have been a nasty fall; but I was +able to stop the cart before it crossed the pass. I returned to the +house, and shortly afterwards Don Frederico started to go to the +cemetery in the Swiss Colony, in order to attend the funeral, while I +rode up to the Cerro, as some sheep-working was going on there I wanted +to see after. Ramonou came and helped, and soon proved himself useful in +getting the sheep through the yards. We were now in the first week of +October, and as work of this kind would be pretty constant throughout +the month it seemed as if he had arrived on the scene just about <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>the +right time. One morning I was busy superintending this work; the weather +was becoming hot, and progress somewhat slow. Before going to breakfast, +I went to my room to wash my hands; my arm had now got much better, the +inflammation and swelling having gone. I had turned up my shirt sleeve, +and was rubbing the soap gently between my hands, when a thistle thorn +half an inch long suddenly popped out of my arm, somewhat in the same +way as a cork flies out of a bottle, and fell into the soapy water. By +its appearance it should have been a larger thorn, so that part must +have broken off when it entered the arm. Anyway, I was only too glad to +be rid of it, for it might easily have caused me more trouble than it +had done, and I felt thankful to the "curandera" for the advice she had +given me. The thorns of the big thistle are very sharp and strong, so +much so that when riding through them I have known a thorn pierce right +through a long leather riding boot.</p> + +<p>The spring had so far been a dry one, and we were looking forward to +soon beginning the shearing, partly because the season was an early one, +and also on account of the difficulty of getting shearers. Soldiers were +everywhere more or less on the move, and on an estancia this is always a +hindrance to work of every kind. Saturday came round again with its +"para rodeo" of the cattle, and on Monday morning, between ten and +eleven o'clock, thirty soldiers arrived asking for food and horses. They +were travelling north to join the main army. I had a sheep killed for +them, as they said they were hungry, and gave them some farinha and +yerba, and I ordered our horses to be got up into the corral; it was, in +fact, the only thing to do. They ended by taking thirteen horses, six of +our own mark, including the brown colt we had tamed, and seven which had +been left with us by soldiers, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>among them the chestnut I had ridden +over to Mr. Trafford's estancia. They left us five, apparently tired +out, and weary, and all in poor condition.</p> + +<p>I had the rosillo saddled; indeed, I now had him up very constantly, +letting him out to feed at night. Our own horses were gradually +disappearing, and I saw it would not be long before we ran short of +them. We were now busy getting ready for shearing, and I had to go round +to all the native neighbours and find out how many and when they would +be likely to come. This year, owing to the scarcity of outside people, +it seemed probable that more of our own people would have to shear than +usual. Meanwhile, Don Frederico was doing all he could in the Swiss +Colony, although as a rule the colonists were not great shearers, for at +that particular time their own farms often needed attention. I had the +stone walls of the sheepyards attended to, and saw to the gates, and +also that the doors and belongings of the galpon were all in proper +order. I also had an ample supply of wood brought up from the Monte, the +necessary provisions had to be got ready as well as numerous other +articles, all of which were sure to be wanted at such a busy time. On +November 1st a small gang of nine shearers arrived. They had been +previously engaged, and commenced work on the following day. Meantime, +Jennings duly turned up at the Cerro to take charge inside the galpon, +while I looked after matters outside, and also helped him in my spare +time. It was not long before we found out how useful Ramonou could make +himself. He helped to get the sheep through the yards, and also to hurry +a flock from one of the puestos, which otherwise would have come too +slowly, and so kept the shearers waiting for sheep. The weather favoured +us—for the month proved warm and exceptionally dry, so work got on +faster than it could otherwise have <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>done. Soldiers called up half a +dozen at a time, but no large number came to trouble us, for which we +were very thankful. Pedrito now kept an eye on the southdowns, and also +got up the horses, for both old Juan and Justiniano took a turn at +shearing, although neither of them were very efficient.</p> + +<p>Work progressed as the days passed, and time went on, so that by the end +of the first week in December, we made a finish, and the gang of +shearers having received their money, at length took their departure. No +sooner was shearing over than we had to see about marking the calves. +This should have been done earlier, but perhaps owing to the same causes +which had produced the epidemia the cattle this spring had been in +rather poor condition, and the calves generally both younger and weaker +than usual. The third week in December began on a Wednesday, and Don +Frederico fixed that day for the marking. I went round to let our native +neighbours know, and asked them all to come and help. Fortunately, the +morning was fine, and we were all on the move at the Cerro even earlier +than usual. I rode a black horse with a white star and two white hind +feet. Pedrito was quite proud of himself, mounted on a small bay which +had been left tired by soldiers, but had now recovered. He was a good +rider, inherited no doubt from his Indian ancestry, and he never pulled +his horse's mouth about more than was necessary. As it happened, +although we were fewer horsemen than usual, the cattle came up well, and +we left them to go round and round on the rodeo while Don Frederico and +Jennings came up to the Cerro to have some coffee which Correo had ready +for us. I let go the black horse and saddled up the rosillo, and on +returning to the rodeo was pleased to find that several of our native +neighbours had arrived. With the aid of a point of tame cattle to lead +them, we got the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>herd shut up in the manga, and I felt relieved to +think that my responsibility was now over. Two large fires were lit, and +the brands heated, and then two of our native neighbours rode in among +the cattle to lasso and bring out the calves. And so the work +progressed, until about eleven o'clock a halt was made for breakfast. +Seeing we depended so much upon the help of our native neighbours, Don +Frederico said we had better regale them with what was known as "Carne +con cuiro," or beef roasted in the hide. So a young cow had been killed +and cut up in a much shorter time than the uninitiated would deem +possible, and two big roasts with the hide on them were already cooking +before the fires. This above everything is a delicacy the South American +native dearly loves, and Pedrito's face was a picture when he learnt +what was going to happen. Caña, farinha, salt, and yerba were served +out, and the company were all enjoying their repast when a horseman +appeared approaching, perhaps two hundred and fifty yards away. As he +got nearer I saw he was riding a colt, known as a "redamon," <i>i.e.</i>, only +about half tamed, with a piece of hide tied round its lower jaw, instead +of a bit, and as he rode on towards us the animal, a beautiful +"rosillo," answering the slightest touch of the rider's hand on the +rein, he was indeed a sight to see. His long black hair well oiled and +curling beneath a worn and battered old felt hat, fell almost down to +his shoulders. Over a shirt anything but clean was a dilapidated old +summer "poncho," with a rag of a white handkerchief tied loosely round +his neck. An old worn coloured "cheripa," over a pair of cotton drawers, +covered his waist and the upper part of his legs, and below were a pair +of potro boots, made of the skin of a wild mare, from which the hair had +been removed; mounted with a pair of large iron spurs, completed his +footgear. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>As he rode among the crowd, he raised his hat above his head +with a "Buen dia Señores" (Good-day, gentlemen) as he sat on his horse +like a statue waiting to be invited to dismount. Then came a cry from +the assembled company, "Cypriano caramba! Cypriano!" but the tribute was +certainly not to his wealth, nor indeed, to his character, for he was a +well-known horse stealer, as well as a famous "domador," or horse-tamer, +but rather a spontaneous and unpremeditated recognition of his wonderful +horsemanship. This touched the hearts of the "Gauchos" as nothing else +could have done. In spite of his rags and his dirt and his poverty, he +was to them a true aristocrat, rising for the moment head and shoulders +above his fellows; for such, indeed, at that time, was the way and +custom and manner of the "Pampas."</p> + +<p>Breakfast being finished, work was resumed. By three o'clock the marking +was over, and the herd of cattle let go, when, owing to the times +through which we were living, the company at once dispersed. The weather +continued hot and dry right into the New Year, when I found the water in +the alhibi, or reservoir in the courtyard was becoming exhausted. As I +have previously stated, all our water came from collecting the rainfall +on the roof, whence it passed through pipes into the "alhibi." Usually +the supply was sufficient, but probably the water had been used in +excess and wasted during the shearing, and as no rain had fallen now for +some weeks, it was easy to account for the shortage I wished to preserve +what there was for the house, and indoor use; so we caught up an old +petiso called Waddle, and Justiniano mounted him and made fast his lasso +to the forked branch of a tree with a barrel fixed on its top, and +started for the Cañada Grande to fetch water. He did not go very fast, +for Waddle had seen much of life, and had an enlarged knee; <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span>but he had +done the job before, and he did not mind. I daresay, too, he knew by +experience it was not likely to last very long. So with the daily barrel +brought up each morning, we managed to get along quite comfortably. As +to the stock, they always had plenty of water, with the river Rosario on +one side and the river Pichinango on the other, not to speak of the +Cañada Grande, which was hardly ever dry; nor, indeed, had they to go +any distance to drink. Of course the "seca" had its effect on the +pasture, and the grass everywhere got very dry. Where, however, the camp +was not overstocked, and there was good water, the animals could pass +through time of drought without coming to any harm. One morning Pedrito, +who had been out on an old horse looking after the southdowns, came back +and said he had seen an ostrich nest with several eggs in it, which he +thought were still quite good; so I sent Juan with him to fetch them. +There were seven, and they turned out to be but recently laid. The +female bird will lay her eggs out in the open, choosing a place where +the grass is long and dry, and well exposed to the sun. The yolk is +somewhat rich, both in taste and colour; but when fried in a frying pan +or made into an omelette is excellent eating. One of his other pastimes +was going after partridges also on horseback, holding a long stick in +his hand, at the end of which was fastened a thin running noose. When he +saw a bird lying in the grass, which they were fond of doing during hot +and dry weather, he would ride round and round in a circle, gradually +getting nearer and nearer, until he could drop the noose over the head +of the bird as it lay still, as it often would do for some time. Correo +could cook both the ostrich eggs and partridge very well, and I found +them a pleasant change after a prolonged course of mutton roast and +boiled. During hot weather he often wore a beautiful suit of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>white +cotton; he had two of these with him, and when he brought in my meal to +the dining room he would occasionally stand behind my chair, in a solemn +manner while I was eating, which certainly looked imposing, for his +black skin shone like ebony, but was at the same time quite unnecessary. +He did not much like talking about his experiences during the war in +Paraguay, which I always realised had given him a pretty severe shock, +for he told me he had passed through villages where not a single man had +been left alive, and where a stranger entering them would find himself +surrounded by only women and children, all of whom were in a state of +semi-starvation, and of abject terror and misery. All the crops and +animals had been destroyed by the troops as they passed, and there was +nothing suitable in the way of food anywhere within reach. I liked the +old man, whom I always found very willing and obliging, and I was glad +to see his health improve, as it certainly did, doubtless owing to the +rest, and quiet, and to freedom for the time being from any care or +anxiety as to where or how he could get a living.</p> + +<p>The New Year came in exceptionally hot; day after day brought continual +sunshine from a blue sky, in which scarcely a cloud could be seen. +Towards mid-day the rays of heat poured down so fiercely, they seemed as +if they would scorch the very tussock grass itself. The rocks behind the +house fairly glistened and shimmered in the noon-tide glare, and the +large lizards were very happy, constantly running in and out of their +holes, and indeed had a glorious time. Out in the camp, the ground +itself got warm, and everything dried up. The cattle could be seen here +and there in groups; by this formation they seemed to think they might +escape the burning rays of the sun, and it was in the night and early +morning, as well as late afternoon, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>that they were able to feed in +comfort. They went gladly enough to the rivers to drink, but they could +not stay long by the woods on account of the number of flies which were +ever ready to pester and torment them, until they hardly knew how to +bear. The sheep, also, could be seen clumping themselves together, each +trying, as it were, to get shade by standing in each other's shadow.</p> + +<p>If the pasturage on the estancia was hard and dry, there was yet plenty +of it, and as there was abundant water I had no fear of anything like +starvation for the stock. During the great heat the "siesta" in the +middle of the day had to be longer than usual, and practically all work +was suspended, except during the early morning and late afternoon. The +rooms, however, were very comfortable during hot weather, for being so +high, and opening one into another, there was always plenty of air, even +when the heavily-barred windows were, according to the Spanish custom, +kept shut during the middle of the day in order to keep out the heat. We +had no garden to suffer, and were thankful for the grateful shade of the +"ombu," and also of the figtrees in the courtyard, so that, except for +the want of water, we had little to complain of during the period of the +"seca." Curiously enough, during the great heat we had no thunderstorm, +the atmosphere remaining perfectly clear and dry. This, however, was +quite unusual.</p> + +<p>One morning, not long after sunrise, two Blanco officers, and about +eighty soldiers rode up to the Cerro. They said they were en route for +Colonia, and had been travelling the greater part of the night, taking +advantage of a nearly full moon. I invited the two officers into the +house to have some coffee, but before accepting, they said what they +wanted were horses, for many of those they had with them were tired, and +it was important they <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>should get on with as little delay as possible. I +asked if the soldiers wanted food, but all they were allowed to do was +to make a couple of fires and suck some Matè, before proceeding on their +journey. As to the horses, there was nothing for it but to get all our +horses up into the corral—they had not long been let go—and let the +soldiers take what they wanted. There were now but few of our own mark +to choose from; the others being horses previously left with us. +However, they took seventeen and left us twelve tired ones, poor in +condition, and not one of them looking as if he was much account. As it +happened, the bay colt we had tamed was with his mother and the +wall-eyed horse I often rode, and old Waddle some distance further away. +So these did not come up with the others, thus the bay colt once more +escaped attention. I had the rosillo tied up and saddled, and Pedrito +was riding the little "mala kara," so he got off, but a very light bay +horse, called an "andador," or pacer, which Justiniano was fond of +riding, was one of the first chosen by the soldiers. The officers told +me they were going to join a large division of the Blanco army, now in +the province of Colonia, which was thought likely to be moving in our +direction, and it was supposed General Aparicio himself was coming down +shortly just to see how things were going. The officers were quite +civil, but when they were gone, and I had time to think matters over, I +realised that this hardly compensated for the fact that we had now +hardly any horses of our own mark left to us. Such, indeed, was so often +the fortune of those whose business it was in "the old days" to try and +carry on an estancia during time of revolution.</p> + +<p>On January the twentieth, we had three or four very short and slight +showers, and on the day following, heavy rain fell and continued without +intermission for twenty-four hours. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>"seca" had now broken up, the +"alhibi" was more than half full, and we had no further trouble in +regard to water. Soon after two o'clock on the last afternoon in the +month, a party of soldiers rode up, and one of them, who appeared to be +their leader, told me I was to go with them to where a division of the +Blanco army was encamped, some two and a half leagues to the south-east +of the Cerro. As they seemed to attach importance to the request, I did +not care to quite refuse or indeed argue the point as to whether I +should go or not. Moreover, I thought it would be an experience, and +possibly somewhat of an adventure. As it happened, I had caught up the +rosillo a short time before, intending to take a turn round the camp. I +told them I would be ready in a quarter of an hour, saddled him up, +strapped the belt of my revolver round my waist, slipped a light summer +poncho over my head, and we made a start forthwith. Meanwhile, the +Indians had hid themselves in the galpon, and I bid adieu to Correo, who +looked greatly perturbed when he saw me depart. We travelled rapidly +along, for something over an hour, and then, as I looked ahead, I saw an +interesting scene spread out before me. In a large "rincon," at the back +of which was a stream, lightly bordered by trees, were quite a large +number of soldiers. Horses were either feeding loose or tethered +everywhere. The men were scattered about in every sort of attitude and +position, mostly resting and smoking, and some enjoying a game of cards, +while others were chatting and talking together, and apparently enjoying +themselves. Meanwhile, fires had been lighted in front of which large +joints of meat were already roasting. A little to the right, half a +dozen "Gauchos" were busy giving some colts they had got hold of a +gallop, which, from their appearance, had only been recently caught up. +Behind all these, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>on slightly rising ground, a group of officers were +gathered. One of these was seated on some rugs and saddle gear, which +had been piled up for the purpose, and he was at the time occupied in +sucking Matè through a silver "bombilla," or tube. He was a remarkable +looking man, somewhat above middle height, with rather broad shoulders, +over which his long hair hung down in a slight curl at the back, swarthy +in complexion, with a very keen-looking pair of black eyes. I realised +at once that I was in the presence of no less a personage than General +Aparicio himself. Meanwhile, he invited me to dismount, and asked me who +I was, and where I had come from, and what had brought me there. When I +told him, he said, "This ought not to have happened! There must have +been some mistake!" Then he continued, "Siente sé Señor," "Sit down, +Sir." "Vamos à tomar un matecito," "Let us drink a little Matè." In the +meantime, a soldier was holding my horse, and behind where we were +sitting, two lances were stuck in the ground, from which the white +banner was flying. The General's sharp eyes caught my horse. "That +little rosillo seems made of some good stuff," he said. "You had better +take good care of him." I told him he had the mark of the Estancia +Pichinango, and was about the only one we had left. "Pero que quiere mi +amigo? Es tiempo de guerra." ("But what could you wish, my friend? It is +time of war,") he replied, with a laugh. The General then told me that a +good many matreros (deserters from the army) and bad characters, were +said to be hiding in the woods our way, and that he would send a couple +of soldiers with me when I went back, who could also stay at the Cerro +for a time, in case I should find myself in any trouble. Thereupon I +thanked him, and about half an hour later made my adieux. As I left the +camp the two soldiers rode in front of me, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>each carrying his lance, +with the white banner flying, while I followed immediately behind. Upon +reaching the Cerro, which we did just after sundown, I got quite a +reception from Correo and the Indians, in which "Napoleon" and +"Ramonou," also "Brag" and "Bully," took part, in fact, they all +appeared quite relieved, and very pleased to see me back again. On the +next morning, I rode down to La Concordia to see Don Frederico. He was +greatly amused when I told him of my little expedition, and at once +asked me if I thought the Blancos were likely to be coming our way. I +told him I thought not, as from what I had gathered their intention was +to make straight for Colonia across country, as it were, without +touching the town of Colla, in which case they would not be likely to +come near the Pichinango. He further said the two soldiers who had come +back with me would be a help rather than a hindrance, for he had been +wondering how we could manage to get the horses all gathered up into the +"manga" this year, and the foals marked, seeing there was hardly any +outside person available. He said that now I had the two soldiers, who +doubtless understood camp work, at disposal, he would arrange a day to +gather up the horses, with as little delay as possible, and let me know. +I could then inform our native neighbours, and possibly succeed in +getting a certain amount of help. I rode back by Marmasola's puesto, and +told him if he knew of anyone likely to be of any use, to be sure and +let me know. That same evening, a little before sundown, a young +Englishman, Mr. Frank Turnor, arrived, with three horses and a peon. He +was "Major Domo" on a large English estancia up the country, and he +asked if we could put him up for the night. This I was delighted to do, +and we had the horses collared and sent out to feed. He was a +fine-looking young man, with broad shoulders, and a tall, upright +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>figure. We were sitting smoking after dinner, when the conversation +turned upon "matreros," men wanted by the police, hiding in the woods, +whereupon he told me the following story. He said where he was living +they had large woods bordering the river, in which "matreros" would come +and stay for a time, living on the estancia cattle, and then move off +again to other secure places, where the police could not catch them. +They were a desperate lot, and murdered one of the shepherds of the +place because he mended up the fence after they had cut the wires, so as +to pass backwards and forwards, which was a cause of annoyance to them. +He said it was his business, together with two men, to search the woods +every Saturday to see if they were there, as they always left some trace +or other, such as the remains of food or tracks of horses. Both he and +his men always carried rifles, but he was never very keen about finding +the thieves, as they were known to be very dangerous characters. A new +Chief of Police had come, whose ambition was to catch these men. Knowing +the outlaws were in the woods, he thereupon notified him, and the police +officer appeared early one Sunday morning with ten men, all fully armed, +when he at once went with him to show more or less where the matreros +were to be found. On the way they met a half Indian man called the Negro +Largo, who in peace time was allowed three sheep a week to keep him from +stealing, and in time of revolution forty dollars a month to save the +horses; as the Indian then had some thirty men under his command. He +went on to say that as he and the Negro Largo knew the woods, they were +asked to go quietly ahead, so as to try and find the encampment, the +police following.</p> + +<p>At last some horses were seen tied out near some little "talditos," or +coverings made of branches, but all was quiet; it was very hot, and the +thieves <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>were sleeping. He and the Negro Largo then returned to the +police, without disturbing the sleepers. Turnor wanted the "comisario" +to charge right up on horseback, but being an infantry officer, he +preferred to do so on foot. So after approaching a little nearer he +ordered his men to dismount and form line, and himself heading them with +drawn sword, charged up to the place where the horses were tied. Owing, +however, to the noise caused by dismounting, etc., the outlaws, hearing +what was going on, made a bolt into the thick wood, so that only the +horses, saddles, etc., were captured. He further mentioned that he and +the Negro Largo were not in the charge, but behind a tree watching.</p> + +<p>The police officer was intensely proud of his achievement, and at once +ordered one of the best looking horses to be saddled up for him. When he +mounted, however, the horse reared, and coming over backwards, gave him +a bad fall, much to the general amusement.</p> + +<p>Turnor said that this was his only encounter with the "matreros," but +that some time after two of the men with rifles who were revising the +woods as usual came right upon the outlaws over a bank, with their +horses saddled. Instead of trying to escape they at once mounted and +attacked them, firing their pistols, when they on their part being taken +by surprise, made a bolt of it, and being better mounted succeeded in +getting safely away. Eventually all the outlaws were captured and put in +prison.</p> + +<p>It was getting late when we turned in, but as Turnor wished to make an +early start on the morrow, I had already told Correo to get some coffee +the first thing. Fortunately, he was always an early riser. The morning +was fine, and the sun had but lately risen, when my visitor and his man +mounted their horses and started on their way, the latter leading <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>the +spare horse, so that either could change to it as they went along.</p> + +<p>During the afternoon Margarito arrived with a note to say that we were +to have a "para rodeo" of the cattle on Saturday as usual, and a general +gathering up of the horses on the Wednesday following. I therefore lost +no time in advising our native neighbours, and getting them to come and +help us. To make this doubly sure I rode next morning to pay a visit to +two or three of the principal ones in person. Both the soldiers +accompanied me with their lances, and the Blanco device on their hats +and the white banner flying. When I arrived at the first native house I +saw at once that I was about to make an impression. I thought the dogs +barked if anything louder than usual as we sat on our horses calling out +"Ave Maria," the usual form of salutation. For the moment no one +appeared, but I saw signs of first one and then another woman or child +peeping out through a window and so on. Then the front door was opened, +and the master of the house appeared bare-headed, and with a bow +desiring me to dismount. Whereupon I did so, and went into the house, +the two soldiers meanwhile holding my horse outside. I delivered my +message, and we discussed the war, and I was invited to have some +refreshment, which I declined. When I thought sufficient time had +elapsed I got up to leave, being accompanied outside by apparently the +whole family. I then walked solemnly to my horse, mounted and signed to +the two soldiers to move on, and altogether I flattered myself that I +made a very dignified departure. The same mode of procedure took place +at two other houses, each with the same satisfactory result. The fact +was, we were getting very short of horses in our neighbourhood, and as +hardly any of these people, friendly as they might appear on the +surface, would have at all objected to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>coming inside our camp and +picking up and carrying off any stray horse which, having been left +there, would otherwise have proved useful to us, I thought it a good +opportunity to let them know that, up at the Cerro I was in a position +of some authority, and therefore not to be trifled with. On the Saturday +the two soldiers went with us to the "para rodeo" of the cattle; +"Napoleon" enjoyed himself greatly, and all went well.</p> + +<p>Wednesday morning was fine, and we were all early on the move. I rode +the rosillo, who was in excellent form, while the two soldiers and the +Indians were mounted on horses which had been left by passing soldiers. +As we got the troop up towards the "rodeo" a portion of them tried their +utmost to break back, but the rosillo was quite equal to the occasion; +he was indeed a good little horse, and his speed and energy soon +succeeded in rounding them up and forcing them to rejoin the others, so +that we managed to get them all shut up in the stone "manga" with less +difficulty than I had expected. Our native neighbours duly turned up, +fires were lighted, and we were able to mark quite a fair number of +foals. We also picked out about a dozen stray riding horses from among +the troop, which had probably been left by soldiers as they passed +along. These we divided between the Cerro and La Concordia, attaching +them to the tropillas, in order that so long as they remained to us they +might be made useful, and earn their living for the time being. Don +Frederico was mounted on his rosillo allazan (chestnut roan), otherwise +known as his war-horse; but Jennings no longer rode his usual dark grey, +for it had been taken by soldiers about a month previously, so he was +compelled to bestride a rather ancient-looking bay horse, which was also +in but poor condition, instead.</p> + +<p>At the beginning of March the two soldiers were <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>recalled to Colla. When +they bid us adieu they both thanked me for the pleasant time at the +Cerro, and when they departed took with them our good wishes. Towards +the end of the month, Charles Bent turned up quite unexpectedly. His +relatives outside had been unfortunate, and had lost a lot of stock, +both sheep and cattle, during the war, and his idea was to make his way +to Monte Video later on, for he seemed to have a hope that the war would +soon be over. He had lost his race-horse not very long after the +disastrous affair at the Cerro, now getting on for a year and a half +ago, and he rode up on an old "Bayo Negro," or dark cream, with a black +mane and tail, which had been left by soldiers, and seemed to be of very +little account. I was glad to see him again, for I always liked him. +Moreover, he did not look very well; he was never really strong, so I +asked him to stay on a bit at the Cerro, as we had ample room, and I +knew he would be glad to help in any work which had to be done. With the +exception of the rosillo, we were entirely dependent upon what I might +call outside horses, for we had now scarcely one of our own mark left. +The bay colt old Juan had tamed, was still with us, but he had managed +to sprain his shoulder rather badly, so was for the time being of no +use.</p> + +<p>We had a room at the Cerro with a strong brick floor, which had at one +time been used for stores, and I had this arranged for the rosillo, so +that in case of necessity he could be shut up there at night. Generally, +when the weather was fine, I could have him tied up in the courtyard, +but when the nights got cold and he was unable to feed there, I knew it +would be difficult to keep him in good condition. As it turned out, I +found that the shelter from wind and rain, together with a small but +regular allowance of maize, greatly contributed to his welfare. When I +next saw Don Frederico I <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>spoke to him about Charles Bent, and he said +he should be very glad for him to stay on at the Cerro for he knew he +would always willingly lend a hand at any work which might be going. He +said he thought he would be much better there than if he were to go into +Monte Video at present, as it was generally believed by those who knew, +that before very long the Blancos intended to try and besiege the city, +and if they should do so would probably succeed. During the next three +weeks we had a good deal of sheep-working on hand, as the flocks from +the puestos were being passed through the sheepyards, both at the Cerro +and at La Concordia. Ramonou was really a great help; he was obedient +and good at his work, and gave satisfaction all round. Bent had left his +sheep dog, "Bob," with his relations. He told me it was some time since +he had heard of Royd, but he believed he had sustained many losses with +his stock at his friend's place near San Josè, and that he either had +sailed or was about to sail for England. At this I was not surprised, +for he never seemed to me well suited to camp life. He was naturally +somewhat despondent, and there was no denying he had been very hard hit +at the Sierras de Mal Abrigo.</p> + +<p>Correo seemed now to have recovered his health and spirits, and to enjoy +preparing our simple menu. He was always willing and attentive; indeed, +since his arrival at the Cerro, everything inside the house had gone on +quite comfortably.</p> + +<p>Some three weeks passed and nothing happened except the ordinary routine +of estancia work. During this time either Bent or I had been accustomed +to go up on to the flat (azotea) roof once or twice daily with the +glass, so as to have a good look round. The Cerro stood high, so that +from its roof we could overlook the greater part of the estancia. This +was a distinct advantage in times like the present, for it <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>not only let +us know anything that might be going on among the stock, but also +allowed us time to prepare beforehand for any soldiers who might ride up +to the house with the intention of causing us trouble. One afternoon +Bent and I were up on the "azotea" together, having a look round with +the glass. It was just about two-thirty when suddenly we saw some twenty +soldiers coming our way from the East, at an angle which would make them +pass to the front of the Cerro, about half a mile distant. We could, +moreover, see they were Colorados, for the red banner was clearly flying +from their lances. At the same time a troop of Blancos appeared, coming +up from the Pass of the Pichinango, so that the two parties came into +collision just about the place where Tio Benigno's deserted puesto still +stood. We could see it all perfectly. They galloped furiously one toward +the other two or three times, but seemed always to manage to avoid close +contact. They fired their guns and revolvers, some of the shots at any +rate being hurriedly let off into the air. Then the Reds made a bolt, +and thereupon the Blancos, seeing this, galloped furiously after them, +with their lances. One of the Reds was wounded by a shot, for we saw his +arm hang useless by his side as he rode away. Another got a lance wound +in his back, which was apparently more serious, as he fell from his +horse after the Reds got a little further away, and had to be picked up +by his comrades. So the Blancos remained masters of the situation, and +after the Colorados had disappeared, they passed the Cerro at a gallop, +about a quarter of a mile distant, following a northerly direction, as +if they were making for Guaycoru, and we were all very glad to see both +lots clear out. Some ten days later we were both up on the "azotea," +about an hour before sundown. After taking a look round, I said to Bent, +"Do you see that point of cattle feeding almost at <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>the same place where +the Blancos and Colorados met? And can you see a dark lump on the +ground, a little way removed, just on the far side of them? If I am not +mistaken that is a matrero, out 'bombiando.' You know what that means, +'looking for and marking down a young heifer, so that he and his +companions can come and kill it at night,' and there will be a moon +to-night up to twelve o'clock, you know!" "I believe you are right," +replied Bent. "Have a look through the glass. I fancy you will find that +animal standing alone a little further away to be a horse saddled, and +he is probably hobbled as well." Taking the telescope, I soon saw this +to be the case. "I will give that fellow a bit of a fright," I said, at +once going down into the courtyard, where I had the rosillo ready +saddled. It took but a moment to lead him out through the small door, +jump on his back, and gallop off. I had not got more than half way, when +the matrero, who must have seen me coming, ran to his horse, mounted, +and made off towards the woods of the Pichinango as quickly as he could. +The rosillo was going strong, and I should certainly have overtaken him, +when an unfortunate thing happened. The ground was very rough and +uneven, with numerous pieces of pointed rock rising up above it in every +direction. The horse unluckily caught his off fore foot on one of these, +and as he was going fast, it tripped him up, and he came down a regular +cropper, rolling right over. I, of course, came down with him, having my +revolver tightly held in my right hand, fully loaded, the trigger at +half cock. When I fell it somehow got jammed between me and the hard +ground, with the end of the barrel against my chest, slightly bruising +the flesh. Fortunately, it did not explode! It was a Colt's muzzle +loader, and I felt grateful to them for its reliability and their +excellent workmanship. I remounted, and continued <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>the chase, but the +delay gave the man too much of a lead, and I only arrived in time to see +him enter the woods and disappear. Bent seemed quite glad to see me +return without any further mishap, and when I explained to him how I +came to have the tumble, which he had been able to see with the +telescope from the house, he remarked, "That revolver of yours is indeed +worth more than anything it may have cost, old man!" This pleased me, +for as a matter of fact, I had bought it second-hand, when I was at the +Sierras de Mal Abrigo, upon its eminent firm of maker's reputation, +knowing otherwise but little about it. Bent and I then got up the +"tamberos" to their rodeo. They were now well in hand, and went up +easily. As we returned, Justiniano was bringing up the southdowns, to +shut them in for the night; I looked them over, and saw them safely +inside their yard. Correo was always pretty punctual with supper when we +were at home, for he was glad when work was over and he could retire to +rest. Afterwards we had a quiet talk and a smoke, and both went early to +bed.</p> + +<p>A week later we were both on the "azotea" about four o'clock in the +afternoon. A Mr. Fenton, who had formerly stayed a good deal at the +Cerro, had left his "moro," or blue-grey horse behind him when he went +away, attached to one of the tropillas. The horse was not there when I +came, having detached himself, and joined up with the "saino manada," or +troop of mares and foals. We had not been looking round long when I +noticed a horse coming at pretty nearly full speed in the direction of +the Cerro, with two soldiers in full pursuit. "I believe it is Fenton's +'moro,'" I said to Bent, "and what is more those two fellows are going +to have him." Just then the "moro" passed, some three hundred yards +distant, in front of the house. One soldier flung his "boleadores," but +as it happened <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>they fell short. The second thereupon immediately +increased his speed, and flung his with such accuracy that they twisted +themselves round the "moro's" hind legs, and soon brought him to a +standstill. The soldiers then slipped a halter over his head, loosed the +"boleadores" from his hind legs, and led him off with them, riding in +the direction of the Pichinango Pass.</p> + +<p>The "boleadores," or "bolas," as they are often called, are a very +effective weapon in the hands of a skilled horseman who is well mounted. +They are chiefly used to capture horses and wild mares in the open camp, +and are a very important part of a "Gaucho's" equipment. They are made +of twisted strands of raw horse-hide. There are three thongs united +together at a common centre, each about a yard in length. At the other +end of each thong is a leaden ball, covered with hide. The horseman +holds one ball in his right hand while he swings the two others quickly +round his head. He then lets go the ball he had in his hand, so that the +three go whirling swiftly forward in a circle, and their weight and +impetus causes the thongs to twist themselves round the hind legs of any +horse at which they may be aimed, which, chiefly owing to the speed at +which it is moving, soon finds itself with its hind legs tied up +together, and so falls helpless to the ground.</p> + +<p>Much smaller balls fastened together in the same manner, with quite thin +thongs, are used by the natives to capture the wild ostrich.</p> + +<p>Indeed, I have always been given to understand that the "boleadores" +were in use among the Indians of the Pampas from quite remote times. A +few days passed, and nothing happened, and then one morning just after +ten o'clock a Blanco officer and between seventy and eighty soldiers +arrived, who asked for food and horses. Accordingly I had two sheep +killed, and gave them what <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>else they required, and told them to make a +couple of fires outside, over which to roast their meat and boil their +kettles. As to horses, I told them we had none left, only a few more or +less useless ones, which had been left by soldiers. As, however, they +said they had four tired ones which could go no further, I sent Pedrito +to bring up what we had into the corral, so that they could suit +themselves, for under the circumstances it was the only thing to do. +Finally, they took five and left their broken-down ones in their place. +So we were not much worse off after all. The rosillo I had saddled, and +regarding him they gave me no trouble whatever, so I really had cause to +be thankful, for I particularly did not wish to lose him. We invited the +officer to come in and have breakfast. He was a good-looking man, not +more than thirty years of age. He told us they had come from the north, +and were going to join their division near Colonia. He said the main +White army was now very strong indeed, and it was their intention before +long to push right through the province of San Josè, where they expected +to easily drive the Colorados before them, and then to besiege Monte +Video, thus stopping all supplies coming in from the interior. Should +they succeed in carrying out their intention, which he fully believed +they would do, we might have reason to hope the war would soon be over. +In due course, the soldiers having refreshed themselves, took their +departure, proceeding at a "trotte-cito," or jog-trot, towards the Pass +of the Pichinango, the officer riding in solitary grandeur behind. One +afternoon in the middle of the week following, Bent and I were up on the +azotea taking a look round. We had not been there long when we saw +something which looked like a man on horseback going slowly, leaning +forward in the saddle, with his arms resting upon the horse's neck. He +seemed to sit more or less helpless, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>and the horse, which was +three-quarters of a mile distant, appeared to be making his own way, +having come from the East, behind the Cerro, towards the road which led +from it to La Concordia. I sent Justiniano, who had a horse saddled, to +see if anything was amiss, and if so, told him to bring the horse and +rider back with him. This he did, and the latter turned out to be a +Swiss, weak and faint from loss of blood. We got him off his horse, and +carried him into the galpon, where we laid him on a "quatre," or light +wooden bedstead, and I then managed to pour a little Caña and water down +his throat, for, as we lifted him from his horse, he had suddenly +fainted. After a few moments he came round, and told us he was coming in +from outside with a considerable sum of money on him. Suddenly three men +appeared, whom he took to be "matreros," or deserters, for they had no +device on their hats, although all were armed. They compelled him to +hand over all the money, his poncho, spurs, and silver-handled whip, +even to a large gold ring which he wore on the fourth finger of his +right hand. They threatened to cut his throat if he made any resistance, +and as it was he had a deep wound from a stab with a knife, just about +the middle of the forearm, inside and below the elbow of the bridle +hand. This had evidently bled profusely, and was even then bleeding, and +it was clear the poor man had lost a good deal of blood. He thought the +wound must have been made when one of them was taking the ring from his +finger. However, Bent and I managed to improvise a small tourniquet, and +so get pressure to bear, which easily controlled the bleeding. We then +bound up the arm with a cold water bandage, and made the man as +comfortable as we could. Correo made him some "bouillon," and when he +had taken this he soon sank off into a doze. About an hour and a half +later he woke up, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>feeling better, whereupon we readjusted the bandage +and enquired his name and address, and where his home was situate in the +Swiss Colony. I told him to make himself as comfortable as he could +during the night, and early in the morning I would send a messenger to +advise his friends what had happened, so that they could bring a light +cart to fetch him, for he was too weak to ride. I told Justiniano to tie +up a horse and start as soon after daylight as he could, taking at the +same time a note I wrote to Don Frederico, telling him what had +happened. This Justiniano could leave at La Concordia as he passed, +without really going out of his way. Meanwhile, old Juan said he would +keep an eye on the man during the early part of the night, and advise me +if anything went wrong. Bent and I then turned in, feeling pretty sure +that if the Swiss could get some sleep he would probably be better in +the morning. Fortunately, this turned out to be the case, although the +patient was still very weak. About ten o'clock a friend and a relation +arrived in a light covered cart, with a straw mattress and suitable +coverings. We carried the Swiss, and placed him carefully in the cart, +it was evident he had received altogether a great shock. I gave his +relative a written statement of what we saw; how we had found him; and +what we had done, so that if necessary it could be shewn to the police, +and I said I was prepared and willing to answer any further enquiries. +They soon made a start, and this little excitement was over. May was now +well advanced, and sheep-working among the flocks, which had been pretty +constant, was drawing to its close. One morning, towards the end of the +month, Bent and I rode down early to La Concordia, where the fine flock +was to be passed through the yards. The work made good progress, so that +we were both back again at the Cerro a little before twelve o'clock. +When I saw <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>Correo he told me a Swiss baker had called during our +absence, on his way outside with bread, and that he had bought three +loaves from him. We were glad of this, as being a pleasant change from +the "galleta," or hard camp biscuit. According to our usual custom, we +were both again up on the "azotea" about four o'clock in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>Everything seemed quiet, but we had not been there long before our +attention was arrested by what looked like a covered cart slowly +crossing the camp, about a mile and a half away, in the direction of the +Cañada Grande, opposite to Laborde's puesto. Every now and again it +seemed to stop, and the two horses, which we could see were drawing it, +appeared to be grazing. Altogether, it gave us the impression that +either there was no driver in the cart, or that if one was there, he was +either drunk or incapable. I then decided to send Justiniano to see what +was the matter. He had the bay colt his uncle had tamed saddled, whose +shoulder was even yet not quite sound. I told him if he found anything +wrong to make his lasso fast to the horses, and so bring them cart and +all, up to the Cerro. By this time, from Correo's description, we had +identified the cart as belonging to the Swiss baker, who had passed in +the morning. Of course, it was possible that he had somehow got +separated from his cart, which was now moving towards home without him. +Meanwhile, we watched Justiniano reach the cart, get off his horse, and +go round to the back to look in behind. He then came round and made fast +his lasso to the horses' heads, remounted, and made start with the cart +in tow in the direction of the Cerro. All this we could see quite +clearly through the telescope. When he arrived, I went down to meet him, +and Correo and Pedrito and uncle Juan were all in attendance. I saw at +once from Justiniano's countenance, that something serious had happened. +Our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>consternation may be imagined when he told us that the body of the +baker was lying inside the cart, and that he was quite dead, with his +throat cut from ear to ear. How he had come to his death we were unable +to form any idea. We could only suppose that two or three "matreros" had +come across him in the open camp, far from any dwelling, and that they +had done the dastardly deed from sheer devilry. The poor man apparently +had no revolver or weapon with him in the cart; if he had one it had +been taken away, neither was there any sign of shots having been fired +at him; nor was either of the horses in any way maimed or injured. In +fact the whole thing was a complete mystery. Correo and the Indians +seemed greatly impressed. Naturally, the former could identify the body +and the cart as being that of the man from whom he had bought the three +loaves of bread in the morning, but beyond that there was nothing +whatever to point as to how the tragedy had come about. Inside the cart +was indeed a sickening sight. The loaves that remained, and the floor of +the cart, were covered with blood. I took a note of all the gruesome +details, and then we got the body out of the cart, and laid it on a heap +of sheepskins inside the galpon, and covered it over with a white sheet. +When I first saw it the body was quite cold, and probably the poor man +had already been dead for more than two or three hours, for already the +arms and legs had begun to get slightly stiff. By the time all this was +done, it was getting dusk. The sun had already set, so I postponed +sending down to the Swiss Colony to convey the sad news until early the +following morning.</p> + +<p>Soon after sunrise Justiniano started, and I told him to call at La +Concordia on his way back, and tell Don Frederico what had happened. +About ten o'clock two men arrived, who took away the cart and the +remains. I made out a written statement of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>the whole affair, so far as +we knew about it, and were concerned in it. This I signed and dated, and +got Bent to witness. I then gave it to one of the two men, who turned +out to be a relation of the "finado," or deceased. In the afternoon I +rode down to Marmasola's puesto. He had just returned from Solarez's +pulperia on the other side of the pass. He told me he had heard that a +large division of the Colorado army, with infantry and artillery, was +coming up to turn the Blancos out of the province of Colonia, and that +there was pretty sure to be a battle very shortly. Hearing this, I rode +on to La Concordia to acquaint Don Frederico, who said it was just about +what he expected, and we had better be on the alert, and keep a sharp +look-out. I then went back to the Cerro, and we got the "tamberos" up on +to their "rodeo," and I saw the southdowns safely shut in, and by the +time I had unsaddled and put the "rosillo" into the stable, it was +already sundown. Next morning we were all early on the move. We +carefully shut all the doors and entrances to the galpon, and so far as +we could made all fast. We looked to our firearms, and had our long +ladder which reached to the roof of the house, carefully concealed in +the galpon, so that no one could get up there from outside; in fact, we +prepared everything to make as good a defence as we could in the event +of our being attacked.</p> + +<p>Next morning, after all our preparations, everything appeared quiet, but +about three o'clock in the afternoon we heard the constant firing of big +guns out towards Colla, although, by their sound, we were able to tell +they must have been a good long distance away. The firing continued +intermittently until sundown. We spent the afternoon on the roof, which +we could reach with the small ladder inside the house. Nothing happened +during the night, but half an hour after sunrise the first signs of the +battle <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>which had taken place began to show themselves. First a small +party of Blanco soldiers were seen crossing the estancia at a gallop +from the Pass of the Pichinango, shaping their course straight for the +Sierras de Mal Abrigo. These were followed by others and by single +soldiers, galloping for all they were worth. Then, later on, came the +main body of the Blancos in full flight. Stretching in a long uneven, +but continuous line, they passed about two hundred yards in front of the +Cerro, the wounded in carts without springs, drawn by horses, and what +looked in some cases like half-tamed mares, were continually passing, to +which any amount of whip was forthcoming to make them move. Early in the +day none of the soldiers came up to the Cerro, but about three o'clock a +light cart, with a canvas covering, drove up to the house, with three +horses attached to it. A negro, who sat in front with a whip, which he +evidently had made good use of, was driving. In attendance were two +soldiers, with their lances, and fully armed. They told us that a +wounded colonel lay inside, who was in great pain, so much so that he +could with difficulty bear the jolting of the vehicle, which had no +springs. They asked if we could do anything to help him in his plight. I +proposed that we should get him out of the cart and lay him on a +"quatre" in the covered way which led from the galpon into the court, +where he would get plenty of air, and we could then see if anything +could be done for him. This we did, and then Bent and I attended to him. +He had a severe lance wound in the right side, just above the hip bone. +It was only very roughly bound up with some dirty calico, and he had +evidently lost a good deal of blood. We first gave him a little Caña and +water, and I told Correo to bring him a cup of bouillon, made of mutton, +with rice in it, which he happened to have cooking on the kitchen stove. +We undid the bandage, sponging the wound <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>with warm water, so as to get +it clean so far as we could. I then put on three pads made of linen +soaked in cold water, fresh from the "alhibi," covered them with a piece +of oil-silk I happened to have, and over these a broad linen bandage, to +do which I remember I tore up the last remaining dress shirt I +possessed. Above all this, we firmly fastened a broad strip of blanket, +so that it would not easily move. Meanwhile, Correo and the Indians +roughly fixed up three small bags filled with the dead leaf of the maize +plant, and some old wool we had in the galpon; one for him to lie upon, +with the other two on either side, in order, so far as possible, to +deaden the jolting of the cart. By this time he seemed to have somewhat +recovered, and although we could not persuade him to eat anything solid +he took some more "bouillon," with a little biscuit broken into it. He +seemed a very nice man, about forty years of age, and he told us his +name was Antonio Martinez, and gave me an address which would always +find him. He was very grateful for the little we had been able to do for +him, and told me if at any time he could be of any service to us I was +to be sure to let him know. We then carried him carefully to the cart, +where we made him as comfortable as might be. The soldiers and the negro +had meanwhile got something to eat, and sucked some Matè in the galpon, +so they were quite refreshed, and we watched them make a start, with the +sincere hope that the wounded colonel might safely reach his journey's +end. The passing of the soldiers went on during the day; it did not +finish until about half an hour before sunset. Bent and I watched it to +the end from the "azotea," and it was indeed a wonderful sight. The +excitement and the desire to get on was intense, and it was quite clear +the Blancos had been defeated, and were now making a pretty good run of +it, and that the whole <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span>division, of which we had from time to time seen +portions, and heard so much, was hastening to join their main army, lest +the victorious Colorados should again come up with them. We also +remained watchful and alert, and continued to have everything made fast +for the next two or three days, so that should they happen to come our +way they would not catch us unprepared. The dogs, however, did not at +all approve of it, because they could not run in and out of the galpon +at will, but "Napoleon" and "Ramonou" managed to take exercise in the +courtyard, and "Brag" and "Bully" did very much the same. However, a +week went by and we heard nothing of the Colorados after the battle; all +we knew was that none of them seemed to come our way, and for this we +were thankful. One afternoon, a few days later, about half an hour +before sunset, a captain in the Blanco army rode up to the Cerro, +attended by a soldier, carrying his lance and wearing the white device +on his hat. They had a led horse with them in addition to the two they +rode, and all three were in first-rate condition. The captain asked me +if we could put them up for the night. So soon as they had unsaddled, I +had one of the tropillas brought up, and we collared their horses for +them. Correo soon made up a bed, and it was not long before Bent and I +and the captain sat down to supper, the soldier, meanwhile, making +himself quite happy with the Indians in the galpon. After it was over we +sat and smoked and talked in the gun-room, where Correo had lit a small +fire in the stove, so that we were warm and comfortable. Our guest told +us his name was Eduardo Suares; he was very polite, and appeared to be +well educated; and he looked certainly not more than thirty years of +age. He told us the battle of Colonia would have no influence whatever +upon the movements of the main Blanco army, which he expected would now +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>very shortly be moving forward, and that it would not be long before +Monte Video would be besieged. He did not think for a moment that the +Colorados would be able to make any firm stand outside the capital. All +this being so, he considered that early in July the revolution might +probably be at an end, and the Colorados would be compelled to resign +office. Captain Suarez also said he had passed a great part of his life +in the province of Entre Rios, where his relations had an estancia, but +that he himself was a native of the republic of Uruguay. He gave us the +following interesting account of the great Urguiza, Governour and despot +of the province of Entre Rios, who was one of the strongest, ablest and +most savage lieutenants of the famous Dictator Rosas. He ruled his +province with the dagger and the bullet; himself shut up in a strong +castle in the midst of the "Pampa." Eventually he succeeded to supreme +power after the fall of Rosas, and his first important administrative +act was to assemble all the provincial governours and to ratify the +Fundamental Agreement of January, 1831, as the basis of the Constitution +of the Argentine Confederation. He further told us that he himself was +present at the death of Urguiza, when he was assassinated in 1870. He +said that when Urguiza's body lay dead an Indian chief who was present +exclaimed "Impossibile! El General Urguiza nunca muere!" "Impossible! +The General Urguiza never dies!" It was during Urguiza's governorship of +Entre Rios that it was said you could hang up a pair of silver stirrups +upon a tree in the Monte, on the bank of the river, where there was much +traffic, and go and find them there in a month's time. But this state of +things was certainly not the case in the Republic of Uruguay during La +Guerra de Aparicio, from the year 1870 to the year 1872. We both enjoyed +listening to our guest's descriptive <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>and animated conversation, and +having bid each other "Buena noche" (good-night), retired to rest, as +the captain wished to start early next morning. The horses were up in +the corral by sunrise, when the soldier caught up and saddled his own +and the captain's horse, and after partaking of coffee the latter bid us +"Adios" with many thanks for the very slight hospitality I had been able +to afford them. Exactly three weeks from the day when the wounded +colonel Antonio Martinez drove up to the Cerro, a negro rode up about +twelve o'clock. I happened to be just returning from a ride round the +camp in the opposite direction. He appeared to be well mounted on a +good-looking "bayo," or cream horse, with a black mane and tail, and he +was leading a "saino," or brown, with a white star on his forehead. He +saluted me, and asked if I was in charge of the Cerro. I said "Yes," +whereupon he handed me a letter from Colonel Martinez, saying that after +leaving us he had suffered very much less on his journey, that he had +reached a hospital, and was now almost convalescent, for his wound had +gone on well. It was a nice letter, couched in very friendly terms, +thanking me for what we had done, which was really very little, and +begging that I would accept the "saino" horse as a slight memento of +what had happened. I told the negro to unsaddle and tie up the two +horses and go into the galpon to get some breakfast, which he seemed +very pleased to do. I then just had a look over the "saino." He was at +first sight rather a long low-looking horse, with good shoulders and +long sweeping quarters, and it was this length of body which made him +appear, until you got close up to him, a smaller horse in height than he +really was. He gave me the impression of being between six and seven +years old. Bent had ridden down to the Swiss Colony, hoping to find some +letters he was expecting, so I had to await his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>return before giving me +his opinion regarding him. I wrote a letter to Colonel Martinez, +thanking him for the horse, and for his kind thought about us, and gave +it to the negro, who promised to deliver it, and after he was +sufficiently refreshed he mounted his "bayo," to whom we had given a +feed of maize, and departed. I then had the "tropilla" brought in, and +collared the "saino" to the bay mare. Her colt, which old Juan had +tamed, still suffered at times from his shoulder; hard ground seemed to +affect him the most, for after rain he could then be ridden. A little +before sundown Bent returned quite cheerful, having received his +letters. There were several people at Quincke's pulperia, and the place +seemed full of conversation and news. It was said that the advance on +Monte Video by the Blanco army had already begun, and that the Colorados +were now retiring before them. Those who had taken part in the battle of +Colonia had already returned to the province of San Josè by a route +which led them nearer to the estuary of La Plata, and I could not help +fearing lest in their passing they might have gone to Monsieur Emile +Gunther's, and so have taken "Carnival." However, I comforted myself by +the certainty that if I had kept him on at the Cerro I must have lost +him. When the horses came up in the morning, I saddled the "saino" and +rode him down to La Concordia. Bent was not much impressed by his +appearance, but when I saw Don Frederico, he said he thought him a good +honest horse, likely to prove a good servant, and that I had better do +all I could to look after him. We had now reached the second week in +June, and winter had already come. However, we had plenty of grass, and +both sheep and cattle had done very well since the New Year began. About +eleven o'clock Marmasola sent me up a message by one of his boys to say +that a battle on a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>somewhat large scale had taken place inside the +province of San Josè; that the Blancos had been victorious, and that the +Colorados were now completely disorganised, and fleeing before them. +Further, it was supposed the main Blanco army would now move forward and +besiege Monte Video. This was indeed great news, and we now felt we +should soon see the end of the revolution, and peace would be declared +at last. Two days later, about four o'clock, a Blanco officer rode up to +the Cerro, carrying dispatches. He said his horse was tired, for he had +travelled fast and far, and he begged me to lend him a really good +horse, which would carry him along for five leagues (15 miles), without +loss of time, at the end of which he felt certain of obtaining fresh +horses and all he wanted. What was I to do? He said the dispatches were +urgent, and he had been directed to make all possible haste. I thought +it over a couple of minutes, and then told him I would lend him my +rosillo, provided he would faithfully promise to let him go at the end +of the five leagues, and this he promised to do. The moon was nearly at +the full, and would be shining during the greater part of the night, +which looked as if it would be fine and clear. The rosillo was in +excellent form; he had not been ridden for nearly a week, and I knew he +would carry him swiftly and well, and that if all went right, when let +loose he would do his best to make his own way back to the Cerro with +the moon. While he was being got ready, the officer, who looked as if +his word could be relied on, told me that the news Marmasola had sent to +me was correct, and that it was more than probable that the siege of the +capital had already commenced. It was with a sore heart that I said, +"Hasta la vista," "until we see each other again," to the rosillo, and +saw the officer mount him and ride away. For it was the first and only +time that a soldier had put a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>leg across him during the revolution. So +I wished the officer "un buen viaje" (a good journey); the rosillo +tossed up his head and set off at a gallop; he had the heart of a lion, +and very soon both were out of sight.</p> + +<p>The first news I heard next morning was from Pedrito. He said he was +bringing up the tropillas not long after sunrise, when he heard a neigh +behind him, and looking back there was the rosillo, coming at a trot to +join his troop, just as if nothing had happened. He looked none the +worse for his journey, and a drink of water from the "alhibi" and a feed +of maize pleased him greatly. "Napoleon," too, showed pleasure at his +safe return, for they were great friends, and had passed many a night +together when the rosillo was tied up in the court, and even when in his +stable the dog would lie as close to it as he could. June passed away +and nothing happened, except that the news of Monte Video being closely +besieged by the Blancos was fully confirmed; and then early in July +peace was declared. The revolution was over, and what had been known as +"La Guerra de Aparicio" was at length a thing of the past. Thereupon the +Blancos took over the government, and assumed power, and the whole +country quickly settled down, as was the custom of a South American +republic under similar circumstances.</p> + +<p>Charles Bent at once began to prepare to go into Monte Video, and left +by the diligence from Quincke's pulperia the middle of the following +week. His life in Uruguay had not been a very successful one, nor was he +really fond of camp life; indeed, he was already looking forward with +pleasure to the many conveniences and comparative comfort of life in a +town. During the latter half of the month I too was turning over in my +mind whether I would not take a journey out towards the Rio Negro, +where <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>I knew a man who had a large estancia. I had rather a fancy to go +up country, for not only should I be able to see all that was to be +seen, but also obtain a little more experience of estancia life, +probably under somewhat different conditions and surroundings. However, +while I was thinking it all over, I received a letter from Mr. James +Jardine, who was living at his estancia La Esperanza, situate some six +leagues from the town of San Josè in the direction of the river Plate, +inviting me to come and stay with him there for a time. He said he had +heard from a mutual friend in Monte Video that it was not unlikely I +might be leaving the Cerro now the war was over, so he wrote at once +lest I should be making any different plans. I rode down to La Concordia +and showed the letter to Don Frederico, who advised me to take advantage +of the opportunity offered. He said, however, that he was arranging to +go away himself very shortly for about three weeks, and he hoped I +should be able to stay on at the Cerro during his absence, and so look +after things until his return. Accordingly, I dispatched a letter to Mr. +Jardine, thanking him for what he so kindly said in his letter, and +informing him how matters stood, and saying that I hoped to arrive at La +Esperanza during the last week in August. I found myself fully occupied +during Don Frederico's absence, and I kept the weekly "para rodeo" of +the cattle going on regularly. On one of these occasions, I was riding +the "saino," we were rather short-handed, and a big point of cattle made +an attempt to break back. I had to put the "saino," therefore, into a +full gallop, and was rather surprised to find that he seemed to me to +have, when stretching himself out, quite a superior turn of speed. With +a little care and rest he had considerably improved, both in looks and +condition. One beautiful day, with a frosty air and a blue sky, I rode +him down to Monsieur Emile <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>Gunther's, to ask after "Carnival." I found +him at home, and he kindly invited me to join them at breakfast. +Although it was the end of winter, the Swiss Colony looked attractive as +I rode through it, and this was doubtless due to the fact that the +numerous and large clumps of "eucalypti" never lost their summer +foliage. Monsieur Emile told me "Carnival" had kept well and safe from +soldiers. Moreover, when from time to time he had been good enough to +use him, as I had especially asked him to do, he had always found him a +very pleasant horse to ride. I sincerely thanked him for his kindness, +and, when I left, saddled up "Carnival," leading the "saino," who led +very well, and I arrived home with my two horses feeling that I had +greatly enjoyed my ride, and I am sure that "Napoleon" was glad to see +his friend again. One afternoon during Don Frederico's absence I had +been round the puestos, returning but a few minutes before sundown. The +southdowns were shut up inside their sheepyard, and in it was a man in +the act of catching hold of one of them. He was brandishing a large +knife, and loudly gesticulating, and he looked to me as if he had been +drinking too much Caña. It seems he had ridden up shortly before and +asked the Indians to give him some mutton to eat, as he said he had been +riding in the woods of the Pichinango, and that he was hungry, and +wanted food. This they offered to do, but when he saw the southdowns in +their yard he said he would have one of them, and when they remonstrated +and told him I should be very angry, merely remarked "that he did not +care for any Englishmen, whether he liked it or not. It did not matter +the least to him." As it happened, I just rode up at the critical +moment, when I at once jumped off my horse, went into the yard, and told +the man to come out of it, and leave the sheep alone. He made a step or +two forward, towards me, knife in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>hand, but I whipped out my Colts +revolver, and covered him with the barrel, warning him that if he came a +step forward I should fire. This calmed him down, and he put back his +knife into its sheath and began to walk out of the yard. I told him to +mount his horse at once, and clear out, and that if I found him again +interfering with any of the stock upon the estancia, it would be the +worse for him. So he rode away, looking very much subdued. I could only +suppose him to be one of the matreros who were still said to be hovering +about the woods in our neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>It had been Correo's intention to go into Monte Video so soon as peace +was declared, but he told me he felt altogether so much better for his +stay at the Cerro, he should like to remain on until I left. On August +25th, Don Frederico returned, and I went down to see him the following +morning. He very kindly said he wished me to keep the rosillo, seeing I +had taken such care of him in memory of my stay at the Cerro. I proposed +that "Ramonou" should go down to La Concordia, where I knew he would be +useful, as there were plenty of sheep dogs where I was going. "Bully" +and "Brag" were to go there with him. Jennings had been away for some +time, but I thought perhaps he might like to have them back. Don +Frederico also said I had better take Justiniano with me, as he could +lead the "saino" with my light baggage. My box and portmanteau meanwhile +could be sent over to Quincke's pulperia to await the next diligence +passing on to San Josè, where it could be left at the Hotel Oriental, +until I could send for them. I arranged to start three days later, and +when I got back began putting my things together, and getting everything +ready for a move. The morning proved fine, and Justiniano and I were all +ready saddled up soon after sunrise.</p> + +<p>I rode "Carnival" and led the rosillo, while <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>Justiniano bestrode a +grey, not by any means a bad horse, which had been left by soldiers. He +led the "saino," also saddled, and carrying my light baggage.</p> + +<p>Uncle Juan, and Correo, and Pedrito were all present to see us off, and +thus I bid adieu to the Cerro del Pichinango, not without regret, as I +thought of the day I had first arrived there, now more than two years +ago, and of all that had happened since.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>PART III.</h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">La Estancia Esperanza.</span></h3> +<br /> + +<p>We rode quietly along, for we had about twelve and a half leagues in +front of us, until we reached our journey's end. "Napoleon" appeared +quite happy; not the least upset by the prospect of a change in his +surroundings. I had brought some cold meat and biscuit, and a little +coffee and sugar, so that we might enjoy a light meal between eleven and +twelve o'clock, and also let the horses rest and graze for a while. We +made a little fire by the side of the track, and then sat down until our +coffee got warm. After that, we made good progress, so that we arrived +at La Esperanza about three o'clock in the afternoon, where I received a +very kind welcome from Mr. and Mrs. Jardine, who were at home at the +time. When I had unsaddled, the former told me to turn my three horses +into a large paddock, enclosed with wire fencing, where he said they +would be all right. Justiniano, however, kept his grey, and tethered him +out for the night, so that he could then get it early next morning, when +he was to return to the Cerro. Mr. Jardine's house was both roomy and +comfortable. It stood facing a picturesque river, less than half a mile +distant, with woods on either bank. In front was a wide verandah, which +also went further back in the middle, thus dividing the house, as it +were, into two wings, united at the back by bedrooms, which lay behind. +As you entered Mr. and Mrs. Jardine's apartments were on the right, and +a large dining-room, with a kitchen and sundry outbuildings attached, +lay to the left. Quite at the far end of the house to the right stood a +high tower, with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span>a comfortable sitting-room below, and a bedroom above. +Beyond this again was a flower garden, with numerous fruit trees, and +this joined on to another garden at the back, where both flowers and +vegetables abundantly flourished. In front of the verandah, looking +towards the river, was a wide open space. A brick house, with its roof +of red tiles, a storehouse, and an office stood fairly removed on the +right, while further away in front was a "galpon," or woolshed, with +ranchos for employees adjoining, but these latter were at the same time +so situate as not in any way to incommode the house itself, neither did +they shut off the view of the woods and river beyond. Mr. James Jardine, +or Don Diego, as he was mostly called, was a thin spare man, of middle +height, and something over forty years of age. He was a great sportsman, +and devoted to shooting; indeed, during the winter months he occupied +himself in scarcely any other way. He really took but little interest in +the work of the estancia, as he left this to his managing partner, Mr. +Alexander Maclean, otherwise known as Don Alejandro, who, at the time of +my arrival, was away in Monte Video, but was expected to return in about +a fortnight. Mrs. Jardine was not very strong; she usually had her +sister, Miss Denman, living with her, who, at the time I came, was away +on a visit. There were two little boys, one five years old, called +Peter, and the other two and a half, whose name was John. They were +altogether a very happy family, greatly preferring the freedom of the +camp to the conventions of town life.</p> + +<p>The Estancia Esperanza comprised somewhere about eleven thousand acres, +but within this area were included three or four "banyados," or small +lakes, and a certain amount of land, which was often covered with water +during wet weather, but affording at the same time very useful +pasturage. There <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>were twelve hundred head of cattle, and a "manada" of +mares and colts, beside something over thirteen thousand sheep. These +were distributed at five puestos, more or less two thousand and five +hundred at each, while perhaps five hundred fed at the estancia itself. +Both cattle and sheep were each under the charge of a "capataz," or +foreman, who carried on all work connected with them, the sheep being +under the superintendence of a Scotchman, named John Gordon, and the +cattle and horses of a native, who would then be more than fifty years +of age. His name was Ramon Duran, a first-rate camp man, who knew his +business thoroughly. Owing to the war, which had so recently ended, the +estancia was short of riding horses. Mr. Jardine was much surprised when +I told him I had succeeded in saving mine, for he had nearly had to part +with the only horse he ever really cared to ride, a good-looking +"rosillo alazan," or chestnut roan; indeed, he said it was more good +luck than any care and management on his part which had enabled him to +keep him. Meanwhile, all was well, he said, which ended well. Spring was +now coming on, and September came in fine and warm. I went for a ride +round the estancia, and came back along the bank of the river. It was +pleasant riding here, and I could well imagine that later on in the +summer the flowering creepers would be very beautiful. As I passed, it +was drawing on to sunset; I noted the cry of a "carpincho," or +water-pig, whom I had suddenly disturbed, while the shrill call of the +"pteru-pteru," or plover, made itself heard on the plain beyond; and a +flight of water-fowl, among whom I noticed a white egret crane, came +quickly swooping down at the side of some marshy land, mostly covered +with reeds, where doubtless they had their home. When I again reached +the house I was glad to find my box and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>portmanteau had arrived, a +cartman who was returning to La Esperanza having come across them at the +Hotel Oriental in San José, and brought them along in his cart. +"Napoleon" had already found a corner in the verandah, underneath the +tower, in which to sleep. He was a very good-tempered dog, and I had no +fear that he would be at all likely in any way to alarm the children. +Next morning I walked down to the corral, to see the riding horses +brought up, a good many of which had evidently been left by soldiers +during the war. During the next couple of weeks the flocks from the +puestos were being passed through the sheepyards at the estancia; the +lambs had to be marked, and various matters attended to. I also went to +my first "para rodeo" of the cattle. We had horses tied up the night +before, and made an early start. I rode my rosillo, and went with Ramon +Duran to the far end of the estancia, looking towards the river Plate. +It was a beautiful morning, and the air was delightful as we galloped +along. I soon perceived the cattle were well in hand. They came up very +well to the "rodeo," and were easy to keep there. The first fortnight in +October proved very fine and warm. Meanwhile, Miss Denman had returned, +as also had Mr. Alexander Maclean, from Monte Video. I found him to be a +big, burly, and apparently good-natured looking Scotchman. He proposed +that I should take charge of the accounts, and also lend a hand in the +ordinary routine work of the estancia. He took me into the office and +shewed me the books, explaining how they had been kept. I had hitherto +been occupying one of the bedrooms opening on the garden, which lay +behind the house, but I now moved up into the bedroom above the tower. +This was very agreeable, for there was a splendid look-out from either +of the two windows, and I could imagine what it would appear on some +clear night in summer, when <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>a full moon was shining, the heat of the +day over, and you could gaze far and wide in every direction, beyond +lake and wood, and river, away to the distant horizon, which alone would +appear to end the undulating plains of Uruguay. There was a very nice +American wagonette at the estancia. It had four wheels, and was fitted +with a pole, and drawn by a pair of small bay horses, with flowing manes +and tails. Their brown harness was both light and strong, with brass +mountings, so that altogether it was really a very pretty turn-out. A +young Scotchman, who acted as coachman, sat in front, while those inside +sat facing each other behind. When the weather permitted, Mrs. Jardine +much enjoyed a drive down to Beatty's puesto, which was at the far end +of the estancia, and she liked to take her sister and the children with +her. Accordingly, one afternoon, they all made a start, inviting me to +go with them. So I mounted "Carnival," whom I happened to have caught +up, and "Napoleon" went with us. There were one or two wide tracks +leading from La Esperanza, on either side of it, which had developed +into quite respectable roads for driving on. Partly from having been +beaten down by carts, and partly from the nature of the soil, they +seemed to have caked down quite hard and firm, so that ruts and bad +places were few, and the carriage was able to pass smoothly and easily +along. Mrs. Beatty was a nice woman, with an engaging manner. She had +two children, Susan, a little girl of nine, and David, a fine little +fellow of five. She had unfortunately lost her eldest boy, who would now +have been about fourteen, a little more than a year ago, owing to an +accident with a horse, which had kicked him and seriously hurt him +internally. This was a great grief to his mother; his name was Robert, +and he had come out with his parents from Scotland. Mrs. Beatty welcomed +us warmly when we arrived. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>It made quite a small picnic for the +children, for she always insisted on their staying to have tea and some +of the nice little Scotch cakes she made. So we took the horses out of +the carriage, and tied them up under the "euremada," for the sun was now +getting to be quite hot after mid-day. Beatty himself was a quiet, +rather solemn-looking man, with a red complexion, and sandy-coloured +hair. It was pleasant as we returned in the late afternoon, and as we +passed along, we saw one of the blue silver foxes some distance ahead of +us, already come out of his lair, preparing for an evening stroll. We +made too much noise for him, however, and he soon made off, followed in +full chase by "Napoleon," but naturally to no purpose. The sun was fast +declining when we reached the estancia; however, I was pleased to hear +both the ladies and children tell Mr. Jardine, who was in the verandah, +they had enjoyed their drive, and had all of them spent a very pleasant +afternoon. The next morning we had a heavy thunderstorm, with sharp and +continuous flashes of lightning, which lasted upwards of an hour, and +was then followed by torrential rain. This went on the greater part of +the day.</p> + +<p>Shearing began on the tenth of November. There was only a small gang of +six professional shearers employed. The remainder were made up of +natives living in the neighbourhood, of which there were a good many, +who not only could shear well, but had been accustomed to come year +after year. The "galpon" was not nearly so large as that at the Cerro, +in fact the room available was if anything too restricted for the number +of sheep which had to be shorn. More time, therefore, was needed to +complete the business. On November 20th a spell of bad weather set in +which caused delay, as the sheep naturally were wet and could not easily +be got dry again. However, a week later it cleared up, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>after that +work progressed satisfactorily. The shearers were very quiet, and +orderly, and although they did not shear very fast, they did their work +well. The month of December, however, was half through before the +shearing was completed, and the shearers, having received the money due +to them, finally took their departure. No festivities took place, as was +so often customary at the end of shearing, but it was generally +understood that a race or something of the kind would be held later on, +probably on one of the days between Christmas and the New Year. John +Gordon, the "capataz" of the sheep, had a nice bay horse, about five +years old, belonging to himself, which had been born and grown up, and +also been tamed on the estancia. His owner considered him to be +something of a racer; indeed, had so high an opinion of him, I really +believed him to think he would easily run away from anything likely to +be put against him. When some talk was taking place about having a race +one evening at dinner, I said I should not mind matching my old "saino" +against Gordon's bay, provided the distance was anything over a mile. +Don Alejandro told Gordon what I had said, and he was quite willing to +ride his horse against mine, and as it happened we were both just about +an equal weight. I had seen the bay several times, a good-looking horse, +with a white star on his forehead, and two white hind fetlocks, and I +reflected I had probably made a mistake in putting my "saino" against +him. However, as the race was only to be for prizes given by Mr. Jardine +and Don Alejandro, and there was to be no betting between Gordon and +myself, nor indeed did I intend to bet with anyone else, I did not see +any harm would be done, and if it gave any pleasure to the people on the +estancia to see a bit of a gallop, all I had to say was I hoped they +would enjoy the amusement of it, and that the best <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>horse would win. The +time being so short, it was obvious nothing could be done in regard to +training either horse, beyond giving him half a dozen gallops or so, +just to clear his wind; and it was agreed that both horses should run +the race as they were, without giving them any maize or special +preparation. The "saino" had improved a good bit in condition since he +came to La Esperanza. A rest had done him good, especially as to his +forelegs, which I felt sure had been a bit shaken. He had also got his +summer coat, and this added to his appearance. We now knew the distance +was to be a mile and a quarter, on the track leading from the estancia +towards Beatty's puesto, and the finish was to end as close to the +<i>former</i> as possible. I caught the "saino" up for three hours every day, +and gave him a brush over, and saw to his feet, taking him out for a +gentle canter, and every other day I gave him a gallop on the course, +but not at full speed; in fact, I only put him to this twice until the +day of the race arrived, and then for not more than a quarter of a mile +at a time. Gordon did much the same with his bay, only while I rode my +horse late in the afternoon, he rode his early in the morning, when +no-one was much about to see how he performed. New Year's Day was +appointed for the race to be run, at three o'clock in the afternoon, the +day being, of course, a holiday. There was a pretty general feeling at +the estancia that the bay horse would win, and the odds were greatly in +his favour. I knew, of course, that bets would be made on the race. I +never knew a race in South America when they were not, but beyond the +prizes that were given, I myself, as I have before mentioned, did not +stand to win anything. These were to be an excellent English saddle and +bridle complete, and a breech-loading revolver, of a good make, with a +box containing a hundred cartridges to fit. New Year's Day proved fine +and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>still; the sun shone from a blue sky, interspersed here and there +with light "cirrus" cloud, but the air was fresh and cool, so it was not +too hot; just the day, indeed, for everyone to enjoy a holiday. News of +the race, of course, got about, and I was told that some natives who +were interested in racing were coming to look on, probably inspired by +curiosity to see how the Englishmen managed it. As Gordon and I rode +quietly down, soon after half-past two o'clock, to the starting point, +there seemed quite a little crowd gathering where the finish was to take +place. Two friends of Gordon came with us to see us off. The start was +quickly made, neither horse giving the slightest trouble. The bay took +the lead from the first, and made the running throughout, the "saino" +being in close attendance. When, however, we were about three hundred +yards from the finish, and I fancied the bay seemed flagging a little, +for I saw that Gordon was using his whip, I also made a call upon the +"saino" which he immediately answered, and stretching himself out, shot +forward like an arrow from a bow, winning easily by a couple of lengths. +The natives at once came to inspect the winner, and one, who seemed +somewhat of a principal man among them, asked me if I would like to part +with him, offering me forty dollars for him. I asked him if he was +buying him to keep or to sell again, and also if he would be sure and +treat him all right. He promised to keep him, and to do this, so we rode +back to the estancia. I unsaddled the "saino," the man paid me over the +forty dollars, and he then took the horse straight away with him. I knew +if I refused the offer, that it would not probably be very long before +the old "saino" would be missing, for I had noticed one or two natives +present, men who did not look too particular, shewing a somewhat +peculiar interest in the horse, now they had seen how he could <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>gallop. +As a matter of fact, I had no real fancy for racing, and I thought it +better to pass on the "saino" to an owner who did like it, and to a man +who evidently appreciated the horse's good qualities, and would +therefore be likely to take good care of him. I happened to hear of him +again some time later from a man I met casually. He told me the horse +had done a good bit of racing in a quiet way, and had been quite +successful, and had done well for his new owner, so that he also would +probably continue to do well by him. I received many congratulations +upon the result of the race, and it seemed to be the general opinion +that the native, when he bought the "saino" from me, got very good value +for his money. In the middle of January the weather became very hot, and +this lasted a little over a fortnight, and then came a succession of +thunderstorms, with severe lightning, which rapidly cooled the air. I +watched one of these with much interest about 9 p.m. through the windows +of my room above the tower. Just an ordinary display of nature's +fireworks, but how grand they were! as the vivid flashes shot like +rockets in every direction through the overheated atmosphere of a summer +in the Southern Hemisphere.</p> + +<p>Meantime, Mr. Jardine had received a letter from a Mr. Treherne, a +friend of his residing in Buenos Aires, saying he purposed coming up to +Monte Video for a little rest and change, and that if it were possible +he should very much like to see him. Thereupon, he at once wrote +inviting him to come and spend a few days at La Esperanza, and he asked +him to fix his own day to travel to San José in the diligence, and to +let us know, so that we might send in to meet him. Accordingly word came +to expect him on February 4th, so I went in with a boy, mounted on a +chestnut, and a nice little grey horse belonging to the estancia, and +"Carnival" to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span>welcome him. I also had a little business to arrange at +the Policia, and I wanted if possible to have a short interview with the +chief of police. So we started just before three o'clock, arriving at +the Hotel Oriental not long before the diligence was expected. When it +came it brought Mr. Treherne with it. He was rather a delicate-looking +man, getting on towards fifty, his hair fast turning grey, and with the +manner of the student rather than the man of affairs. He had only +brought light luggage in a pair of canvas saddle bags, which the boy +could easily sling across his "recado." I got him a comfortable bedroom +at the hotel, and a smaller one for myself. We then had dinner. At eight +o'clock next morning, I went to the police station, transacted my +business, and before leaving was fortunate in obtaining ten minutes' +conversation with the chief of police, a tall, grizzled-looking man, who +was, however, very courteous, and polite. I had two or three small +commissions to attend to for Mrs. Jardine, and some medicine to get at +the chemist's for John, and then, having partaken of coffee and bread +and butter, we were all ready for a start at half-past nine. I asked Mr. +Treherne which horse he would prefer to ride, "Carnival" or the grey. He +preferred the former, and we were soon jogging along through the +outskirts of the town. My companion was not much of a horseman, but +"Carnival" knew his business, and carried him smoothly and easily along; +he was fortunately very safe on his legs, and knew well how to pick his +way over rough ground; indeed, all the rider need do was to sit quiet +and hold the reins, for "Carnival" himself would do all the rest.</p> + +<p>Mr. Treherne expressed great pleasure at seeing Mr. and Mrs. Jardine +again, telling them he had a capital journey, and that the beautiful air +of the open country, as he rode along, had given him quite an appetite +for luncheon. He was very fond of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>plants and flowers, and, indeed, +something of a botanist as well. During his stay he expressed a wish to +see the coastline and shores of La Plata, and said how greatly he would +enjoy an expedition there some fine day, when it was not too hot. Mr. +Jardine could not accompany him, but he asked me to do so, and we +arranged for an early start, as the shore of the estuary lay a good long +way beyond the furthest point of the estancia in that direction, so that +going there and back made a certain distance to ride. I again offered +him "Carnival," as he seemed to like him so much, and I rode a bay horse +belonging to the estancia.</p> + +<p>When we got beyond our own camp we passed through a kind of open wood +with thinly-scattered "tala" trees. These were not large, much in shape +of a prickly shrub, although on or near the banks of a river these trees +grew much larger, and their wood was greatly used both for fencing and +firewood. As we progressed the soil got poorer, until at last we came to +what were really sand-dunes.</p> + +<p>These were undulating, and of large extent, and as we passed along my +companion noticed every here and there rather a deep dell, with shrubs +growing in it. Here the sand was deep, so we dismounted and led our +horses, and leaving his with me, and going down into one of these, he +was surprised to find it quite bright with flowers, "Petunias," and +"Lantana," whose improved relations, he said, were great favourites in +English gardens. We then were able to remount our horses, and so +proceeded slowly on to the shore of the Estuary de la Plata. Here the +outlook was most attractive. Nothing, not even a sail, visible on the +wide waters, shining like silver in the sunshine on that early summer +afternoon. A wide expanse of sand like the sea-shore stretched east and +west, golden in colour, and hard and firm to ride on. Bordering this, +along the edge of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>dunes, were a row of large cacti, the kind you +see in flower-pots in England, but here ten to fifteen feet high, with +beautiful crimson blossoms in full bloom, hanging in profusion on the +edge of their pendant branches. Here we unsaddled and tied up the horses +beneath their shade. I soon had a fire lighted to keep off the flies, +and also to warm some coffee I had brought with us. Our luncheon, too, +was welcome, and we enjoyed it greatly. After a rest and a smoke we +again saddled up, and had a good gallop on the sands, which the horses +seemed to enjoy every bit as much as we did. We returned by a somewhat +different route, turning towards the river bank, and following it during +the latter portion of our ride. When crossing the camp, I pointed out +the patches of verbena, some scarlet and some white, which in places +quite covered the short grass, looking very bright and pretty. We now +kept close to the woods, but the undergrowth was too thick and tangled +to allow anyone easily to get inside. Mr. Treherne was much interested +to see quite large trees apparently covered with flowers, but on nearer +approach he found they did not belong to the tree itself, but were the +blossoms of a creeper, which completely enveloped it. Some of them were +quite brilliant in colour, in marked contrast to the festoons of grey +lichen moss, which hung from other trees in close proximity. He +dismounted and succeeded in getting some semi-tropical orchids, which it +gave him pleasure to take back with him. We were also fortunate in +seeing a family of the "carpincho," or water-pig; a mother and her +little ones. They were a pretty brown colour, with thick, somewhat +bristly coats, in form like a large guinea-pig, with short legs, and +webbed feet. On hearing us they all sprang into the river, and swam +hurriedly away, their heads only showing above the water. When taken +young they make rather amusing pets, and become very <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>affectionate and +domesticated, though at the same time they will occasionally go down and +join their wild companions for a swim in the river, provided it be near +enough, returning back to the house afterwards.</p> + +<p>The summer's day was drawing to its close as we rode up to the estancia, +unsaddled the horses, and let them go. When Mr. Treherne took his +departure I lent him "Carnival," and accompanied him to San Josè. We +arrived during the afternoon and, as I had some business to attend to, I +left him at the hotel to rest after his ride. I also took the +opportunity of calling upon Colonel Gonzales, who was then in residence +at a house he owned in the town. A tall, aristocratic-looking man, +descended from one of the old Spanish families, who had originally +colonised Uruguay, he was now a widower with two daughters, the +Señoritas Augusta and Isabella. The former resembled her father, having +a somewhat pensive expression, a clear, pale complexion, and dark hair. +She had a quiet, gentle manner, and her sister was wont to describe her +as "muy religiosa" (very religious). She herself, on the contrary, was +vivacious, and amusing, with brown hair and a bright complexion. I was +accorded a kind and friendly reception by the colonel, who said he hoped +when again in the town I should not fail to come and see them. Soon +after I got back to the hotel we saw the arrival of the diligence from +Paysandû; this was always an event in the day, and it was timed to start +before six o'clock next morning for Monte Video. The horses were quickly +taken out, and the passengers emerged, weary and hungry, and entered the +hotel. Then dinner was served, when we were fortunate in securing a +small table beside one of the large windows opening on the street to +ourselves. We then had some coffee and a cigarette, and afterwards +walked out to listen to the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>band which played in the "plaza" when the +evening was warm enough. The musicians occupied a small stand in the +centre, around which the audience walked on a wide path, or sat about on +seats or chairs, as seemed most convenient. Just opposite to the "plaza" +stood the Cathedral. The moon was shining brightly, and here and there +an officer in uniform, or some other "caballero" in close attendance +upon a Señorita wearing the very becoming "mantilla," added to the +picturesqueness of the scene. Returning to the hotel, we went to bed, +for we had to be up early in the morning, when I duly saw Mr. Treherne, +together with his belongings, take his seat in the diligence, and with +many thanks for the little I had been able to do for him, he bid me +farewell, saying he hoped at some future time he might have the pleasure +of seeing me again at his home in Buenos Aires. Among the usual loud +exclamations and cracking of whips, the diligence then started, and was +soon out of sight in a cloud of dust, as it rolled and swung forward on +its long journey. I then mounted "Carnival" and led a bay horse I had +been riding, and although travelling somewhat slowly, reached the +estancia a little before ten o'clock. During the next week I received a +letter from the wounded Colonel Antonio Martinez, saying he had taken +office in the new Blanco Government, and was now living in Monte Video. +He gave me his new address, and told me that if he could do anything for +me, and I would write and let him know, it would give him great +pleasure. I accordingly wrote and thanked him for his letter and his +kind thought, and told him I was no longer living at the Cerro del +Pichinango, but was now at La Estancia Esperanza, some six leagues +distant from the town of San Josè. Thereupon, shortly afterwards, I +received another letter from him, saying he had a great friend, Don +Carlos Mendoza, the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>recently appointed "Gefè Politico" (or Governour of +the Department), and that he had written to give me an introduction to +him, and to say that he had asked me to call upon him at his residence +in San Josè the next time I happened to find myself in the town. I wrote +and thanked him, expressing my gratitude, and saying it would give me +great pleasure to avail myself of an opportunity which he had been so +very good as to propose. We were now getting well on towards the end of +March, and the weather was much cooler, but fine and pleasant, as is so +often the case during the early autumn. About ten days later, two young +brothers, Elliott by name, turned up at La Esperanza, about an hour +before sundown. They were riding out from Monte Video to a small +estancia belonging to a friend in the province of Colonia. They had a +peon with them, who was leading an extra horse, and who was also engaged +to act as guide, and they had ridden on that day from an estancia about +twelve leagues distant, inside where they had been put up for the night, +such being in these old-fashioned times a very common custom when +travelling through the country. Seeing that they hailed from across the +border, and that Don Alejandro and Mr. Jardine both happened to know +something of their people at home, they were not only made welcome for +the night, but were invited to stay until the beginning of the week +following, so that they could rest their horses, see something of the +estancia, and then proceed on their journey. They were in appearance one +very like the other, with fair hair, blue eyes, and youthful, rosy, +complexions. They had only lately landed in Monte Video, and after +learning farming for a couple of years in the south of Scotland, had +come out to Uruguay, having between them a moderate capital, with the +intention of renting land, purchasing sheep and cattle, and so setting +up as estancieros in a small <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>way. There was only apparently about two +years difference in their age; indeed, it would be difficult to surmise +which was the elder. They had come out full of ideas and of hope for the +future, being but little aware that the experience they might have had +on the land at home would be of but little use to them in Uruguay, +seeing what kind of a country it then was. But they were evidently a +pair of cheery happy-go-lucky young fellows, and as I looked at them at +dinner, and listened to their pleasant and interesting conversation, I +could not help wondering what was destined to be their future. That +evening, it was a Thursday, we were all smoking in the dining-room, when +the talk turned upon the native method of taming young horses. Not +thinking of its being taken seriously, I happened to say that I should +not mind mounting a "potro," but I dare not say how long I should stay +on his back. "Bravo! Don Guillermo," said Don Alejandro, with a laugh, +"you shall mount one. We will have one tied up to-morrow afternoon, and +you shall give him his first gallop on Saturday morning." I felt +somewhat disconcerted, but did not like to draw back, and so it was +arranged, and not long afterwards we all retired to rest. Accordingly, a +portion of the "manada" was driven up into the corral, and with them was +a colt, which must have been nearly six years old, of a muddly roan +colour, with a flowing mane and tail, which had seldom come up before, +having never been touched since he was marked late as a foal. A lasso +was quickly thrown round his neck, and another round his hind legs, and +falling helpless to the ground, a halter was put over his head and made +fast with a stout thong of hide to a firm post. This would be about an +hour before sundown, and here he had to remain during the night. This +rough and ready treatment in handling a colt was quite a novelty to the +two young men, who had never even <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>imagined anything of the sort, and I +feel sure they were looking forward with both interest and amusement to +his having his first gallop on the next morning. I looked him over as he +was being tied up, and came to the conclusion he was probably a bit of a +tartar, although, as is well-known, appearances are often deceptive. Of +course, the news of what was to happen became known, and about ten +o'clock on Saturday morning, nearly everyone seemed on the look-out to +see me start off. When we came to fix my "recado" he gave but little +trouble, although I noticed he seemed sulky, with a nasty sullen look +out of the corner of his eyes. He was now led away outside the +buildings, where all four legs were tied together by a long hide thong, +in such a manner that by giving one pull it all became instantly undone +and fell to the ground. I now mounted, Ramon Duran coming on his horse +alongside as "padrino," to accompany me, and help to guide the horse. A +native pulled loose the leg-ropes, and I was at last ready for a start. +The colt stood still a moment, wondering what had happened, and then +made a violent plunge forward and started buck-jumping with all his +might. He seemed to bend himself almost double, with his head and legs +nearly touching underneath. I sat on for a time, while the bucking +process continued, and then he threw me clean over his head, but I fell +clear of him, and at once got up from the ground, none the worse for the +fall. After getting my breath, I got on him again, with Ramon Duran +close alongside me, but he again started buck-jumping, even more +violently than before. I kept my seat until I felt my legs quite numb +with the continued strain, and then I suddenly let loose the slight hold +I had and came off a yard or two away on my feet. So I felt comforted; +for this, even among the Indians, did not count as a fall. Ramon said he +was "un diablo ungobernable" (an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>ungovernable devil), and urged me not +to mount him again, but so soon as my legs had regained their feeling I +persisted in doing so. This time he tried it on, but not so severely, +and I managed to hold tight, punishing him at the same time with my +"rebenque," or hide whip. I thus got him into a gallop straight ahead, +Ramon following as close as he could behind, and with the open camp in +front of me, I kept him at it until he completely succumbed, and in fact +would now go any way I wished. For the moment he had enough, and I rode +him back to the estancia, past the buildings and the people, who had +gathered to see the fun, right up in front of the house. I received +quite a small ovation, it was anyway very much more than the occasion +deserved. I then dismounted, and the colt was collared to a mare, so +that he could feed, and be got hold of easily again when wanted. The two +Mr. Elliotts, who I am sure were very good-natured, both told me how +pleased they were I had come to no harm, thanking me, and saying that +what they had seen was quite a revelation to them. The end of it was +that they all drank my health that evening at dinner, and next morning +Mr. Jardine instructed the carpenter to cut out a round medal from a +piece of lead with my initials on it, which was duly presented to me. +Indeed, I believe I possess it somewhere or other to this day.</p> + +<p>On Monday morning the Elliotts resumed their journey towards Colonia, +having, I am sure, enjoyed their little visit, and we all felt pleased +to have been able to entertain them. The autumn had now come, and Mr. +Jardine was beginning to think about his shooting, and looking over the +guns and ammunition. The season had been a favourable one, partridges, +or rather quail, were already getting into good condition, and it would +not be long before the duck-shooting commenced. In shooting "quail," the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>custom was for two or three sportsmen to walk in a line, about fifty +yards apart, and so catch the birds as they rose in front of them from +the long grass, where they lay concealed. They were fairly plentiful, +and, if the birds rose well, as they often did, afforded good sport, +although to make a good bag often involved a fair amount of walking. Don +Alejandro was fond of shooting, besides being well above an average +shot. I sometimes made up a third and, although the same could certainly +not be said of me, yet sometimes I was more successful than I had any +reason to expect. Mr. Jardine liked to shoot two or three days a week +during the winter, so that opportunity to improve was not lacking. The +quail, although inferior both in size and flavour to an English +partridge, were a pleasant change of diet, and made an excellent curry, +both for breakfast or dinner, a dish which was always much appreciated. +A few days later, poor little Peter contracted a somewhat severe chill, +and as on the next day he seemed worse rather than better, and his +mother was anxious about him, I offered to ride in to San José to get +him a supply of medicine, and also to execute some other little +commissions which were needed, so I saddled up "Carnival" soon after +mid-day and reached the town a little before four o'clock. I finished +the shopping I had to do, and then took the opportunity of making my +call upon Don Carlos Mendoza, the new Gefè Politico at his town +residence, facing the "plaza," or square. On reaching the house, I sent +in my name, and was at once admitted. Don Carlos received me in his own +room, and as I entered rose to greet me, and expressed his pleasure at +making my acquaintance. He was a short man, apparently about forty years +of age with an alert manner, and a very pleasant expression. "Colonel +Antonio Martinez wrote to me about you," he said with a smile. "He is +'muy amigo mio,' 'a great friend of mine,' <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>and is now holding a rather +important appointment in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs." After a few +minutes' conversation, he took me into the "sala," where he presented me +to his Señora, a stately-looking lady, who, I afterwards learned, was a +member of one of the oldest Spanish families in Monte Video. Five +minutes later a pretty-looking girl, who might be about fourteen, +entered the room. The Señora said, "This is my daughter, Carmen, and I +have a son Alfonso, who is younger, and is now away at school." Don +Carlos appeared to be well-acquainted with Europe, having been educated +in Paris and Madrid, and both he and his wife had paid more than one +visit to the French Riviera. The Señora asked me how I liked South +America, and I told her very much, but added, "You see this is the only +year of peace I have known since I came out from England, three years +and a half ago." Meanwhile, coffee and cakes were brought in, and some +delicious liqueur, and half an hour later I made my adieux. Don Carlos +said I must certainly call and see them again, and asking me if I was a +smoker remarked, "Here is a cigar from Habana for you," and accompanying +me to the door, shook hands, saying, "Hasta la vista, Señor" (until we +meet again).</p> + +<p>On reaching the hotel, I had some dinner, and much enjoyed the Habana +cigar, which I knew to be too good a one to light and smoke in the open +street. I went early to bed, with the request that they would call me at +sunrise next morning. This they did, having also prepared me some +coffee. So I saddled up "Carnival," and reached the estancia just before +nine o'clock. I was pleased to hear from Mr. Jardine that Peter was +better, having fortunately passed a good night. One afternoon I and +Ramon Duran had ridden down to look up some cattle not far from Beatty's +puesto. As we were returning he told me there was a big dun-coloured +bull, not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>bearing the estancia mark, which for some time had taken up +his abode among the "tarlas," at the far end of the camp, within easy +reach of the river bank. He made a constant disturbance among our +cattle, his object no doubt being to cut some of them off, and so get +control over them, and then form a small point of his own. Ramon +suggested that we should lasso him and kill him, and so get rid of the +nuisance once and for all. He asked if I would like to go down and +assist, and I said I should very much. However, we came to the +conclusion it would be better to have three horsemen for the job, so the +matter remained for the moment in abeyance. The next day he told me he +had seen Robert Mackie, a young Scotchman, who had come out to Uruguay +as a boy, and was already something of a camp man, accustomed to +lassoing on the "rodeo," and working amongst cattle, who wished to join +us in our little adventure. He, moreover, described him as "un joven muy +guapo," "a very capable youth," so it was agreed we should all three go +in search of the bull on Saturday afternoon. Ramon was to ride his +favourite "picaso" (a black horse, with a white blaze and two white hind +fetlocks), while Mackie would saddle up a "moro" (or blue roan), which +he often rode, as it was well-trained, and a first-rate horse at that +kind of work. I was to ride my "rosillo," so we were all to be +well-mounted. Our first idea had been that if we came across the bull we +should all three try and get round to the far side of him, with the +object of driving him in among a point of our own cattle, but on +consideration we determined to approach him from the direction we were +ourselves riding, and then by acting quickly and suddenly, try and get a +lasso round him before he had time to reach his favourite woods. We were +riding quietly along, when we made out the bull standing feeding by +himself, quite a long distance <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>inside the camp, and away from the +woods, whereupon we widened out our line into a kind of semi-circle, +Ramon being on the left, with Mackie in the centre, while I took the +right, so that we might approach as near to him as possible without +causing any alarm. This method seemed to answer for, as it happened, we +managed to get closer up to him than we had any reason to expect. +Suddenly, however, up went his head, and he saw us coming, when he +immediately made off as fast as he could. We then followed at full +gallop, and Mackie, who was in the centre, pushed ahead of Ramon and +myself, for the "moro" was a fast horse, and his rider both young and +eager. Running his horse close up behind the bull, he threw his lasso, +the loop of which, instead of going round the horns of the animal, as it +should have done, passed over his head and round his neck, thus giving +the bull a much greater power of purchase than he would otherwise have +had. Then a most unfortunate thing happened. Mackie had his foot out of +the stirrup on the lasso side, which was not by any means unusual, but +he also had his leg rather far forward, and as the coils of the lasso +went out swiftly, owing to the speed at which the bull was now running, +one of them caught his right leg, entangling it just below the knee. It +was now a question of speed between the horse and the bull, with a man's +life hanging in the balance. Ramon and I could do nothing, for if either +of us pressed forward we should only help to increase the speed of the +bull. So we both slowed down, edging off one to the left and the other +to the right, which was the only thing to do. Fortunately, the "moro" +rose to the occasion. He never made a mistake, in spite of the ground +being rough and uneven, but shooting forward at an increased speed, he +enabled Mackie to get his leg free from the coil of the lasso, and so +saved the situation. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>Ramon had called to Mackie to take out his knife +from its sheath and cut the lasso, but when he put his hand behind him +both knife and sheath had fallen from his belt during the gallop. Now +Mackie was able to bring purchase, with his lasso, to bear upon the +bull, who was also by this time getting a bit pumped, and compelled to +slacken his speed, so that in a couple of hundred yards more he was able +to bring him to a standstill. Ramon now came up and threw his lasso +round the bull's hind legs, when both the lassos straining at the same +time, and in opposite directions, the bull, now completely mastered, was +compelled to fall helpless to the ground. Ramon then dismounted his +"picaso," still carefully keeping up the strain of the lasso, as a good +horse is trained to do, and taking out his knife from his belt gave the +bull his "coup de grâce." Mackie and Ramon were not long in taking off +the hide, which they slung across the back of the "moro," behind +Mackie's recado, when we returned quietly to the estancia, reaching it +just after five o'clock.</p> + +<p>Winter had now come, bringing with it continued bad weather, accompanied +by cold winds and constant showers of heavy rain. This went on more or +less until the third week in June, when it cleared up; but the beginning +of July ushered in rain heavier than before, the river overflowed its +banks, and low-lying land was mostly covered with water. Fortunately, at +La Esperanza, there was plenty of higher ground for stock to feed on, +for the constant rain day after day, so filled the "banyados," usually +quite small pieces of water, that they developed into something much +more like an inland sea, flooding all the surrounding land for a foot +deep, and in some places even more. The cattle were well able to look +after themselves, but as the floods increased considerable care was +necessary to keep the sheep from being surrounded by water, for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>when +danger threatens they are stupid animals, easily frightened, and apt to +get drowned. The bad weather continued until the middle of July, +moderating during the third week, although still very unsettled. +However, on the morning of the twenty-fifth, I started to ride to Colla, +to receive a considerable sum of money which was owing to the estancia. +Mr. Jardine wished me to take his "rosillo alazan" (or chestnut roan), a +good horse, above the ordinary height, which he said would help to keep +me out of the mud. The morning was fine, and I made an early start, for +I wished to reach my destination without delay. Instead of using my +"recado," I put the saddle which had been given as a prize at the +Christmas race on the "rosillo," this being the kind to which he was +accustomed. The river alongside the estancia had mostly run down, but +when I reached the "Cufré," I found it more or less in flood. As, +however, the water only reached up to the flaps of the saddle, I got +across quite dry, always a comfort when travelling on horseback. The +horse carried me well, and I reached Colla about three o'clock in the +afternoon, the track being less soft and slippery than I expected. I put +up at the Hotel de la Paz (Hotel of Peace), and then went out to receive +the sum of money for which I had come. It was all in paper notes, some +of them very dilapidated, and I was obliged to look them over carefully +to assure myself they were all good currency. This reminded me of a +little incident which had once happened to me when paying an account. +The man receiving it was a native in good circumstances, but he could +neither read or write. As I handed over a bundle of notes to him he +said, "El buey es bueno pero la oveja no vale por nada," "The bullock is +good, but the sheep is worth nothing," referring to the pictures of the +animals printed on the notes I was about to pay <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span>him. To him nothing +else mattered. Having given a receipt for the money, I rolled up the +notes and put them into the large pockets of my carpincho skin belt, and +when I got into the street, I took out my revolver, just to see that it +was all right. I then returned to the hotel to see my horse was +comfortable, had some supper, and went early to bed. It was then fine, +with a young moon shining brightly, but I had not long got off to sleep +when I was awakened by a loud banging and knocking at my door. Thinking +it might be someone come after the money, I first got hold of my +revolver, before going to see, but it was nothing more than a visitor +who had been drinking too much wine and failed to find his proper +bedroom. It somehow seemed to me that the name of the hotel did not +clearly describe its character. I awoke to find the sky dull and cloudy, +and a very cold wind blowing from the south. I succeeded in getting some +hot coffee, with bread and butter. I then saddled up, paid my bill, and +made a start. When I got away from the town, I found the track very +muddy and slippery. The "rosillo" was a good horse, who could pick his +way carefully, and I was obliged to travel slowly. As I passed along, +the country on either side looked dreary and desolate. Such cattle as I +saw stood grouped with their backs to the cold wind, while the sheep +were mostly huddled together, their fleeces wet and sodden with the +rain. When I reached the river Cufré, I found the water high and +swollen, having evidently come down a good deal during the night. I +entered it as far up the bank as the pass would permit, so as to leave +me as much room as possible to land on the other side, in case the water +should be deeper in the middle than I expected. This turned out to be +the case, for my horse lost his feet for a moment, gave a violent +plunge, and I got wet through right up to my waist. However, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span>he was not +really nervous, and recovering himself, succeeding in making a landing a +little lower down, so that we both reached the opposite side with +nothing worse than a bit of a ducking. My first thought was about the +money. My "carpincho" skin belt, which contained it was, of course, +having been under water, soaked through and through; it was all in paper +notes, many of them much worn and dilapidated, and I knew if I left them +where they were they would soon turn into pulp, and become quite +worthless. Moreover, to make things worse, it all of a sudden commenced +to rain. Looking round, about half a mile distant on some higher ground +to the right, I saw what appeared to be a small place belonging to a +native. There were only two or three mud ranchos, with half a dozen +poplar trees standing near them, but from one of the low chimneys I saw +smoke rising. I thereupon determined to make straight for it, and see if +I could get permission to dry the notes by the fire. It was not a very +pleasant idea, as I was, of course, quite ignorant as to who might be +inside, and my revolver, in case I were attacked for the sake of the +somewhat large sum of money I carried, was now probably useless, owing +to having been so saturated with water. However, I made up my mind to +take the risk, and rode up. A dog barked loudly as usual, and a dark, +middle-aged woman came to the door. I told her what had happened, and +asked permission to dry the notes, saying I should be glad to pay for +the use of the fire. To this she kindly agreed; indeed, from her manner +I thought she seemed sorry for the plight in which I found myself. "You +seem very wet, Señor," she said, "would you not like to dry some of your +clothes as well?" I thanked her, but declined, saying they did not +matter, as I wished to continue my journey without unnecessary delay, +but I asked if I might lay my revolver down by the side <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span>of the fire as +I feared it might be a bit damp, in case I should happen to need it +before reaching home, for I had a good long way to go, and it might get +dark. She smiled at this, and said I was fortunate to have come up to +the house when I did, for only half an hour before three native Gauchos +had ridden away, all fully armed, and two of them, she remarked, would +murder anyone with any money as soon as look at them, for they were +notorious bad characters, and had been in the hands of the police more +than once already, supposed to have been connected with something of the +kind. While she was talking, I succeeded in getting the notes fairly +dry, and rolled them up in my pocket handkerchief, and placed them +carefully in the large inside breast pocket of my jacket which, however, +was scarcely big enough to hold them, but I was able to manage it by +packing them tightly together, and now they were once more dry this did +not matter. I realised it would have been more prudent to have done this +before I entered the river. One is always apt to think of things only +when it is too late! I thanked the woman for what she had done for me, +and gave her a small present. "Muchas gracias Señor y adios" (many +thanks, Sir, and good-bye). "Keep a sharp look-out on anyone you may +happen to meet," she said, as I remounted and rode away. Fortunately, +the rain had now ceased, and even a gleam of cold and fitful sunshine +seemed every now and then to struggle to make itself felt at the edge of +a heavy cloud. The track was extremely muddy, and slippery, but the +"rosillo" took it all in good part, for he well knew he was going home. +When we came to our own river, next to the estancia, I found it +considerably higher than on the previous day, but we managed to get +across all right, and I rode up to the house as the cold afternoon was +passing, and the winter light was just beginning to fade.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span>One morning at breakfast, early in August, Mr. Jardine told us he had +heard from Mr. Herbert Fraser, and his brother Frederick, two young +Englishmen, now staying in Monte Video, where they had broken their +journey for a time, their intention being to go on by sea to Valparaiso, +through the Straits of Magellan. They had brought letters of +introduction to him from England, and he proposed to invite them out to +La Esperanza for a short visit, so that they might have a little +shooting. They arrived during the week following by diligence at San +José, and the carriage was sent in there to bring them on to the +estancia. They brought their own guns and cartridges with them, and +seemed keen about sport. They were the type of young men with ample +means to be found travelling for pleasure, not quite knowing at any +particular time what they would do next. The morning after they arrived +we drove in the wagonette to the end of some large swamps, on one side +of the estate, with a boy in attendance to look after the horses, and on +reaching the first lagoon we sent the Frasers to the further end, Mr. +Dampier and I wading among the reeds along either side, with two men in +the centre acting as beaters. The water generally did not come above our +knees, but the thick weeds caused slow progress. There are three sorts +of duck, the native names for which are the "picaso," the "baroso," and +the "ovaro" duck. The first is the largest, with handsome black and +white plumage, the "baroso" is a description of pintail, male and female +being of a uniform brown colour, with yellow bills. The "ovaro" duck, +known for its beautiful variegated plumage, is not nearly so common as +the other two. It is also very wary, but when bagged is the best for the +table. First rose half a dozen "picaso" ducks, and Mr. Dampier and I +each getting a shot, one fell to each barrel. Next came a brace of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>teal, both easy shots, which I missed badly, but my companion brought +down his bird. A flight of "barosos" came flying cross ways, but +wheeling round, passed over the heads of the Frasers at the farther end, +who brought down three of them in first-rate style. A little further on +a pair of swans rose hurriedly, out of range for us, but although a long +shot, one fell to our friend's gun, tumbling into the water with a +tremendous splash. We then shot over some grass land for partridge, +walking in line and beating them up, and in less than two hours we +bagged nine brace. We afterwards went on to two of the other lagoons, +where we met with success, so we drove home well-contented with our +day's sport. Among the larger birds the ostrich merits the first place. +It is not a true ostrich, but a "rhea," and its feathers and plumes are +comparatively but of small value. Of large waders, several species of +herons are found. Storks and the little egret are common, while the rosy +spoon-bill and flamingo, although very shy, are seen occasionally. There +are two kinds of eagle, and many different species of hawk. Snipe are +plentiful during the winter months, being found in swampy lagoons and +small streams; they are usually fat, and excellent eating. There are two +kinds of teal, a blue and a brown, both of which are abundant. Golden +plover and sandpipers abound, and as you ride along the spur-winged +plover, or "pteru-pteru" rises with its shrill cry, and wheels round and +round over one's head. Quite a number of small birds inhabit the +country, and the plumage of some of them is very beautiful. There is the +scissor-bird, with its curious tail; the oven-bird, which will make a +round nest of mud, often as large as a man's head, on the top of a +gatepost, quite close to a house where people are constantly passing; +and others, with all the varying shades of yellow and black. Large +flocks of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span>small green grey-breasted parakeet take up their abode in +the woods, and make the whole place resound with their chatterings. A +species of wood-dove is also very common, and affords good sport. +Amongst the numerous spiders is the "tarantula," which is alarming, and +its bite venomous, also another equally large grey spider, which is very +pugnacious, and will jump up at you when disturbed. There is also a +minute insect of the nature of a harvest-bug, called the "bicho +colorado" (or red insect), which abounds during hot weather in summer, +but disappears during the winter, and when the temperature is cold. It +is a great nuisance, burying itself in one's skin, and causing great +itching and irritation, and often producing sores on the human body by +no means easy to heal. Mosquitos and flies of course are numerous, +particularly near woods, and especially near water. There are several +kinds of snakes, amongst them the coral snake, which is venomous, and a +pretty little green snake, which hangs by its tail from the branches of +a tree, so exactly like the green pod of a flowering creeper that it is +difficult to tell one from the other. The Frasers stayed a fortnight at +La Esperanza, getting several days' good shooting. They then returned to +Monte Video, apparently well pleased with their visit.</p> + +<p>September had now come, the sunny spring-time of the Southern +Hemisphere. It was more than a year since I left the Pichinango, and I +made up my mind to return to England. When I bade good-bye to Mr. +Treherne at San José, he told me to be sure and write and let him know +whenever I should think of doing so, as he thought it would be a great +pity were I to leave South America without seeing Buenos Aires. So I +wrote him a letter to say I should be leaving La Esperanza towards the +end of the month, with the intention of taking my passage in some +steamer, leaving shortly for Europe. About <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>ten days later, I received a +reply suggesting that I should pay him a few days' visit at his quinta, +(or villa, with a garden), situate in the then outskirts of Buenos +Aires, and fix the day of my arrival just as I might find to be most +convenient. I wrote at once to say what pleasure it gave me to take +advantage of his kind proposal, promising to write again when I could +tell him exactly when I hoped to arrive. He also mentioned that the +<span class="smcap">s.s.</span> "Dido" would be leaving Buenos Aires on or about October +11th, in case I should think her a likely ship to suit me. On the Monday +following I rode "Carnival" in to San Josè, and I took the opportunity +to call again upon Don Carlos Mendoza, whom I was fortunate enough to +find at home. We had some interesting conversation as to the prospects +of the new Blanco Government, and the future of the country, and when we +parted he expressed the hope that some day or somewhere he might have +the pleasure of seeing me again. He was a nice man, and gave me the +impression of being intellectual and cultivated, and I felt very glad to +have had the pleasure of making his acquaintance. Colonel Gonzales and +his two daughters were away paying a visit to their estancia. I got back +in good time next morning, for "Carnival" carried me well. He was a +good, reliable horse, and I felt sorry to think my rides on him were so +soon to come to an end. I now fixed up my plans for departure, and wrote +again to Mr. Treherne that I expected to leave La Esperanza on Tuesday, +September 28th, for San Josè, go on from there by diligence to Monte +Video, and travel by what was known as the river steamer, on the last +evening of the month, arriving at Buenos Aires early the following +morning. The first thing I did was to send my "rosillo," whom I had with +me during the war, back again to the Pichinango, where for some years he +led a pleasant, easy life, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span>ultimately died at a good old age Mr. +Jardine said he should like to have "Carnival," and that he would take +good care of him. For this I was glad, for I felt sure the horse would +suit him in every way. I gave my dog "Napoleon" to Ramon Duran, who +promised to treat him well. He was first-rate with cattle, and I wished +him to go where he would be appreciated. Meanwhile, I sent my luggage to +the Hotel Oriental in a cart which was going out to San Josè, keeping +only what I could easily carry on horseback. When the day came to say +good-bye, I thanked them all for their kindness and for having done so +much to make my stay at La Esperanza such a pleasant one. Early in the +afternoon I saddled up the grey, taking a boy on another horse with me +to bring him back. And so ended a year which will always be to me a very +enjoyable recollection. It was a fine afternoon, and as we rode quietly +along the sun felt quite warm, so that we did not reach the hotel until +just about five o'clock. I found my belongings there waiting for me, and +not long afterwards the diligence arrived from Paysandu. It had come in +somewhat earlier than usual, for the roads were now good, and probably +the team of horses which were being quickly taken out, were better than +usual. Immediately afterwards dinner was served. I chose a quiet seat, +and sat on for a while just to smoke a contemplative pipe with my +coffee, and to ponder over the events of the day. I had been very happy +at La Esperanza, and one cannot help feeling regret when an agreeable +time has come to an end. I then went to bed, instructing them to call me +the first thing in the morning. I was up betimes, and able to see the +boy start back to the estancia with the horses, and also to see to my +things before the horses were harnessed up to the diligence, and all +ready for a start. There were only half a dozen passengers, so there was +plenty of room, and we rolled and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span>rumbled along much as we had done now +nearly four years previously, when I went out to Guaycoru to stay with +my friend, Robert Royd, at Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo, little knowing all +that lay before me. When we reached Monte Video, I made my way to the +Hotel Oriental, feeling somewhat weary and tired, but a good sleep was +all that was needed to make me feel completely restored. I had a little +business to attend to during the day, and the late afternoon found me on +board the river steamer, soon about to get under weigh, with her bows +heading in the direction of Buenos Aires. It was more or less a twelve +hours' run, and I came on deck next morning to find we were just about +to let go our anchor; although still some distance from the shore. There +were various methods of landing at the port of Buenos Aires in the good +old days. The big ocean steamers lay at anchor in the estuary, from +eight to ten miles distant from the land. Passengers were passed first +into a tug, then into an open boat, whence they sometimes had to be +shifted into a cart; indeed, it was not uncommon to carry them ashore on +men's backs. However, a small steam launch came alongside and took the +passengers aboard, afterwards transferring us to an open boat, so we +reached the landing-place quite comfortably. I then got a carriage, +which carried me and my belongings on to "Bella Vista," that being the +name of Mr. Treherne's quinta. He came to meet me as I drove up, with a +very kindly welcome and many enquiries after Mr. and Mrs. Jardine and +all at La Esperanza. It was a roomy, comfortable house, with two wide +verandahs, facing north and west. The garden was just entering upon its +spring beauty, and would soon be a blaze of colour. The mimosa trees +were just coming into flower, as also the paradise trees, with their +purple blossom. That of the wistaria was already out, hanging in +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>profusion all along the verandah, while a little further away was a +long low hedge, thickly covered with "plumbago," and here and there a +pomegranate. There were several kinds of palms and flowering cacti, and +on the house itself was a magnificent magnolia, already covered with +buds. The rose trees were an especial care, and some were even now +beginning to flower. Moreover, there was provision for ample watering +during hot weather. Breakfast was served at 11.30 in the wide verandah. +Early in the afternoon my host took me into the town. I went first to +the shipping office, and was afterwards to meet him at the "Strangers' +Club," where he kindly said he would introduce me. I found the +<span class="smcap">s.s.</span> "Dido" to be a steamer of moderate size, bound for +Antwerp, calling at Rio de Janeiro and Lisbon, and also at Southampton, +to land her English passengers. She did not carry many, but hearing she +was well-found, and reputed to be a good sea-boat, and finding a +comfortable cabin was at disposal, I at once decided to take my passage +in her. So the whole matter was easily settled. I found the "Club" very +comfortable and well-arranged. Those who knew Buenos Aires at the time +of which I write would indeed wonder at the beautiful city they would +find to-day. The streets were then rough and ill-paved. The drainage was +scanty and bad, and when it rained heavily the water poured like a +torrent down the principal streets. But even then there were beautiful +shops, and well-appointed carriages, with silver-mounted harness, so +beloved of Spaniards, were quite a distinctive feature, and a great +contrast to the rough and, uneven roads over which they were compelled +to travel. The great net-work of railways which now traverses the +republic was then a thing undreamed of, for the Buenos Aires Great +Southern Railway, first among its fellows, then extended but <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span>a short +way into the open country. Beyond it the wide "Pampas," the home of the +roving Indian, with troops of wild mares, together with deer and +ostrich, rolled into distance like waves of the sea, stretching one upon +another far away into the great unknown. My visit proved agreeable, and +I felt sorry when it came to an end. However, on Saturday, I was +informed that the <span class="smcap">s.s.</span> "Dido" had to pick up a late consignment +of cargo at Monte Video, and would not leave Buenos Aires until late on +Monday afternoon. Further, that the tug which was to take passengers on +board, would leave the landing stage punctually at three o'clock, on +October 11th. Mr. Treherne went with me to the place of embarkation, and +we were both ready waiting there nearly half an hour before the +appointed time. The tide was favourable, and there happened to be plenty +of water. All was now ready to shove off, so I said good-bye to my host, +with many thanks for his kindness, stepped on board the tug, and we at +once got under weigh. The afternoon was beautifully fine as we hauled up +alongside the steamer, which, her blue Peter flying at the fore, was due +to reach Monte Video at daylight on the following morning. Dinner was +served in the saloon at five o'clock. We were then steaming along in +smooth water, so everything was steady. There were five passengers for +Southampton besides myself. One of them, Mr. Philip Payne, took his seat +beside me at table. He was a young man, perhaps a little older than I +was, of middle height, with an active figure, with light brown hair, and +grey eyes. I found out he was the son of a country clergyman and, after +learning a little farming in England, had come out to South America with +the well-known Henley Colony. When this undertaking, owing to Indian +raids, and other circumstances, turned out to be a complete failure, he +went round to Chile, through the Straits of Magellan, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>and at the end of +the previous summer had come back again to Argentina, across the Andes, +on mules, with a troop of Indians, then considered to be something of an +adventure. When I came on deck next morning, a lighter, with cargo was +already alongside, and the city of Monte Video lay glistening in the +bright sunshine, much as I first saw it four years ago. I did not go +ashore, for we were due to leave soon after mid-day, and the early +afternoon found us again under easy steam, with a light breeze and a +calm sea, and the ship's head pointing northwards. I now made the +acquaintance of the other four passengers, a Mr. and Mrs. West, with +their son Herbert, aged fourteen, and daughter Rose, a girl of ten. He +told me he was an engineer by profession, and had come out to Argentina +in delicate health, hoping the climate might benefit him, and that he +might obtain suitable employment. Neither of these had been fulfilled, +and I felt sorry to see him returning to England after a time which must +have been to them one of disappointment. Mrs. West, too, looked anything +but strong. Their son Herbert, was lame, having had a somewhat serious +accident to his hip, but his parents hoped that if he went under proper +treatment in England the difficulty would be overcome. Four days later, +early in the morning, land was sighted, and by eight o'clock we were +passing beneath the famous "Sugar Loaf," a high, conical-shaped hill, +which guards the entrance to Rio de Janeiro. As we steamed slowly up to +our anchorage the city lay to the left, its houses rising tier after +tier up the hillsides, the whole overshadowed by the great "Corcovado," +a mountain which lay behind. To the right the magnificent harbour, with +many a beautiful island and many a beautiful bay, stretched some ten +miles southward towards "Petropolis." We were not due to sail until +evening, so Payne and I had ample time to go <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>on shore. We first amused +ourselves walking through the town and making some purchases at the +famous feather flower shop in the Rua d'Ouvidor. We then took the +tramway and drove out to see the wonderful Avenue of Palms, supposed to +be perhaps one of the finest in the world. Gay plumaged birds were +flying to and fro, and bright coloured butterflies were hovering hither +and thither, as we slowly walked between the long line of beautiful +trees, the lovely plumes of which, as they hung down in clusters, fairly +shimmered in the hot sunshine of that early afternoon. We got back on +board soon after four o'clock, both of us ready for a wash and brush up, +and for dinner when the bell rang. The sun had already set as the +<span class="smcap">s.s.</span> "Dido" was fast getting clear of the land, and I stood on +deck and watched the shadows of the distant mountains in the fading +light, and I realised I was now taking my last look at South America. +Four Brazilian passengers had embarked at Rio de Janeiro for Lisbon, for +which port we had also taken in a certain amount of cargo. We had fine +weather and a good voyage, sighting land on November 8th, and passing up +the Tagus soon after nine o'clock. We let go our anchor lower down the +river than we might have done, and at some distance from the town. +Lighters at once came alongside to take off the cargo, and the four +Brazilian passengers were landed in the agents' boat. All this took +place with very little delay. Indeed, our captain wished to get to sea +again as soon as possible. So neither Payne nor I thought it worth while +to go ashore. We got under weigh soon after three o'clock, and it was +not long before a thick fog came on, which compelled us to slow down. +Later in the evening the fog grew thicker, so that the ship had to be +stopped for a time, and all through the night we made very slow +progress. The following day the fog came on again, even thicker than +before, but <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span>cleared towards evening, so that we could proceed on our +course something under half speed. The morning of Wednesday was again +foggy, clearing towards the afternoon, but the sky remained heavy and +overhung with thick cloud, so that no observation could be obtained, and +the ship had be navigated only by dead reckoning. The West family seemed +very depressed, but my friend and I were accustomed to difficulties, and +we made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would permit. The two +following days the sun was again obscured by cloud, but we were able to +go ahead full speed. On Saturday evening the captain considered we might +be somewhere abreast of Ushant, but here we fell into what are known in +the Channel as thick belts of fog. These are always very confusing and +misleading, as the thick mist comes down like a curtain, enveloping +everything, and rising and falling very rapidly. The ship had constantly +to stop, and never could steam more than four knots an hour, and very +often less. These conditions prevailed during Sunday, and we crept along +gradually, as it were, feeling our way. Every precaution was taken, a +sharp look-out was kept forward, a sailor being also stationed in the +fore-top, while two men were continually in the chains, taking the depth +of the water, and the foghorn was kept constantly going as well. About +five o'clock, the dinner bell had just rung, Payne and I were standing +by the port rail, looking over the side, near the after hatchway. A +curtain of fog which had come thickly down was just lifting, when a cry +rang out from the look-out forward, "Breakers ahead." Then came the +order from the captain on the bridge, "<i>Hard a port!</i>" A second later +the fog lifted further, and there alongside rose the precipitous rocky +face of the "Bill of Portland." It looked almost as if you could throw a +biscuit ashore. There was no wind, and the sea <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>was gently lapping up +against the base of the high cliff. Payne put his hand on my shoulder, +"Look there," he said, "that is the place to swim for, where you see the +grass growing down almost to the water's edge." In a moment it was all +over, land and sea being once more completely enveloped in fog. +Fortunately the ship had sufficient weigh on her to enable her to answer +her helm, and she at once came round to starboard, when all danger was +past. Mr. and Mrs. West were down in the saloon, and knew nothing of +what had happened, nor did we either of us mention one word about it. We +made slow progress during the night, but when daylight appeared, the sky +was clear, and when I came on deck about nine o'clock, we were just +about to pass inside the "Needles." We then steamed leisurely up the +Solent, the tide was favourable, so that we got alongside the landing +stage, and were able to go ashore soon after eleven. I then bid good-bye +to my friend Payne, and having collected my belongings, got them +conveyed to the railway station, where I took the first train to London, +and so ended my experiences of "Old days among the Gauchos of Uruguay."</p> +<br /> + +<h3>THE END.</h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<div class="tr"> +<p class="cen"><a name="TN" id="TN"></a>Transcriber's Note</p> +<br /> +Some inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in +the original document has been preserved.<br /> +<br /> +Typographical errors corrected in the text:<br /> +<br /> +Page 22 soliders changed to soldiers<br /> +Page 22 spoonsful changed to spoonfuls<br /> +Page 29 knowledged changed to knowledge<br /> +Page 59 Dr. changed to Mr.<br /> +Page 67 lover changed to lower<br /> +Page 68 fenecs changed to fences<br /> +Page 70 attentiton changed to attention<br /> +Page 71 somewhate changed to somewhat<br /> +Page 76 Dcember changed to December<br /> +Page 94 Nothting changed to Nothing<br /> +Page 94 togethed changed to together<br /> +Page 98 he changed to the<br /> +Page 101 Gaiten changed to Gaitan<br /> +Page 115 terrior changed to terrier<br /> +Page 116 cartmen changed to cartman<br /> +Page 116 believed changed to believe<br /> +Page 120 th changed to the<br /> +Page 135 is changed to in<br /> +Page 136 in added between standing and each<br /> +Page 146 workisg changed to working<br /> +Page 150 wih changed to with<br /> +Page 156 it in changed to in it<br /> +Page 167 interefering changed to interfering<br /> +Page 180 in added between growing and it<br /> +Page 187 One changed to On<br /> +Page 189 me changed to we<br /> +Page 197 waggonette changed to wagonette<br /> +Page 198 specie changed to species<br /> +Page 203 allong changed to along<br /> +Page 204 myslf changed to myself<br /> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Blanco y Colorado, by William C. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Blanco y Colorado + Old Days among the Gauchos of Uruguay + +Author: William C. Tetley + +Release Date: June 26, 2011 [EBook #36534] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLANCO Y COLORADO *** + + + + +Produced by Barbara Kosker, Adrian Mastronardi and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + + BLANCO Y COLORADO + + + + + BLANCO Y COLORADO + + OLD DAYS AMONG THE + GA[~U]CHOS OF URUGUAY + + + + + BY + + WILLIAM C. TETLEY + + + + + F. R. HOCKLIFFE + 86 & 88, HIGH STREET, BEDFORD + + LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, + HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD. + + 1921 + + + + +PREFACE + +The following pages contain the writer's personal experiences in the +"Republic of Uruguay" during a revolution in what are now known as the +"Old Days." + +If they enable the reader to understand what life in that country really +meant at that time, the object of this book will then be attained. + + W. C. T. + + The Close, Wavendon, + Woburn Sands, + Bucks. + + July, 1919. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + PART I. LAS SIERRAS DE MAL ABRIGO 9 + + PART II. EL CERRO DEL PICHINANGO 68 + + PART III. LA ESTANCIA ESPERANZA 169 + + + + +BLANCO Y COLORADO. + + + + +PART I. + +LAS SIERRAS DE MAL ABRIGO. + + +The clock of the "Cathedral de la Matrix" was striking ten on a lovely +morning in October, when our signal gun was fired, and the anchor of the +S.S. "Copernicus" let go to find bottom in the muddy waters of +La Plata. + +On the right the town of Monte Video, with its whitewashed "azotea," or +flat-roofed houses, glistened in the bright sunshine; to the left the +broad estuary stretched away towards the open sea; while in front of us +the famous Cerro, a gently sloping hill, looked green and fresh and +pleasant after our long sea voyage. The tug which brought off the +Medical Officer of Health did not delay long before coming alongside, +when permission was given to the passengers to land, and I soon found +myself standing with my baggage on the Custom House wharf, and having +duly passed it, made my way to the "Hotel Oriental." + +Here I enquired when a diligence would leave for the interior, which +would take me within reasonable distance of my friend's estancia, whom I +had come out to visit, which I believed to be situate about thirty-three +leagues, or one hundred miles, up country. I was informed that it was to +leave the next morning, but that, as it started from a "fonda," or inn, +outside the town at 5 a.m., it would be necessary to sleep there, +otherwise I should certainly miss it. At this time the diligence was +the only public conveyance traversing the country, a railway being as +yet unthought of. So I ordered some dinner at the "Hotel Oriental," and +occupied the interval by having a look round the city. I was much +pleased with the straight, wide streets, running at right angles, by the +size and importance of the public buildings, and by many of the private +houses, often opening on to a "plaza," or square, prettily planted with +trees and flowering shrubs. But I was most impressed by the variety and +beauty of the excellent shops, which I could hardly have expected to +find in a South American town at that time, so remote from Europe. I +also saw more than one of the famous "quintas," or villas, with large +grounds, where semi-tropical flowers can be seen in all their beauty, +and palms and magnolias everywhere flourish. + +I arrived at the inn whence the diligence started at 9 p.m. The +proprietor received me with courtesy, and shewed me my bedroom, which +was small and not very clean; but it had a window opening on the street, +so I could get plenty of air. Some natives were making a noise in the +bar below, where they had doubtless been drinking, and seemed inclined +to quarrel. I gave instructions to be called, and the last thing I heard +as I dropped off to sleep was the cry of the "sereno," or +night-watchman, whose business it was, during the night, to call the +time and state of the weather every half hour. A loud rapping at my door +awoke me in time to look up my baggage and drink some hot coffee, before +a start was made. Dawn was fast breaking in the East as five horses and +three mules were being harnessed up, four abreast, to the old wooden +diligence, which carried the mails and baggage piled on its top, the +passengers sitting facing each other on hard wooden seats inside. In +front, beneath a wooden shelter, sat the driver, with room for one +passenger beside him. The diligence was heavily built, with large broad +wooden wheels, and there were no springs. In front rode a native on +horseback, with his lasso made fast to the leading horses, so that he +was able to guide the course of the diligence. His was an office of +importance, and he was called the "quartia dor." The team was evidently +well accustomed to the streets, so we rumbled heavily along, passed +suburb and quinta, until houses became less frequent, and by the end of +the first stage had ceased to appear; and we then saw before us the +rolling plains of Uruguay. A word as to my fellow-passengers. Four were +apparently business men, probably buyers of produce, one of whom spoke +French, and kindly gave me information as we went along. The fifth was +an officer, in a lieutenant's uniform. Reaching the end of our first +stage, we found another team shut up in a yard, waiting. This time they +were all horses, diverse in colour, wilder, and more spirited than the +others. But they were soon harnessed up, and we quickly got under weigh, +the driver now increasing our speed. As we descended a decline we went +mostly at full gallop, to get across the mud in the stream at the +bottom, and so have a good impetus for the rise on the other side, the +old diligence, which had seen much service, swaying and rolling like a +ship in a sea-way. By eleven o'clock we reached Santa Lucia, then only a +village, with one so-called hotel, and a straggling street of native +huts. Here we waited for an hour for breakfast: meat, boiled and roast, +with vegetables; bread, cheese, and coffee, which we much appreciated. +Then, with four new passengers and a fresh team of horses, we made a +start for the town of San Jose, where we were to stop for the night. As +we proceeded, the country opened out before us on every side, the +rolling plain, with here and there a clump of trees to mark some native +estancia, where a flock of sheep, and also cattle, could be seen feeding +in absolute freedom, for there were no fences or divisions of any kind, +neither was there anything in the way of cultivation. Occasionally a +native came into view, galloping after a troop of horses, his poncho +fluttering in the wind, and then, as he passed over a roll of the plain, +like some phantom, would seem to disappear. The afternoon was drawing to +a close when we saw far in front of us the golden rays of the now +fast-declining sun reflected on the cupola of the large church, flanking +the principal square of the country town of San Jose. Gradually the +houses rise up on the horizon, and half an hour later we drive up with +the usual flourish in front of the "Hotel Oriental." It was apparently +an old house, situate in the main street. We dined in a long low room, +with the addition of soup and a sweet, much as we had breakfasted. +Within its walls more than one murder had been planned, and many a +political "cabale" concocted; indeed, I was told that at the very table +where I sat an officer was dining with some boon companions. When +sipping their coffee he turned to them and said, "Tengo rabia voy a +matar un Gringo," "I feel in a rage, I am going to kill a foreigner." He +went straight out, and turning up the street, met an Italian stonemason +returning home from work. He pierced him through with his sword, and, +walking off to where he had left his horse, mounted, and rode away. The +poor man died, but the matter was hushed up, and nothing more was heard +about it. I soon went to bed, feeling tired, and my limbs ached from the +bumping and confinement of the diligence for so many hours. + +In the morning we started early. The sun was just rising above the +horizon as we left the outskirts of San Jose, and made for the open +plain, unbroken, save by the dull grey line which alone seemed to mark +the "camino real," or Government road. At eleven o'clock we stopped at a +pulperia, or store, for some breakfast, and for fresh horses, which were +ready waiting for us. They were a wilder lot this time, and a chestnut +and a piebald especially gave trouble, at first refusing to be +harnessed. Once started, however, they had nothing for it but to settle +down, aided by a free application of the driver's whip. Just before two +o'clock we reached Guaycoru, where my journey by diligence ended; this +being the nearest point to my friend's estancia. Gathering together my +saddle, bridle and light baggage, I entered the pulperia, or store, to +enquire in what direction my friend's estancia lay, and how far off it +was. The pulpero, or storekeeper, fortunately could speak a little +French, which was a great help. He was very polite, pointed out the +direction, saying it was only between five and six miles distant, and +was situate at the far end of some rocky country which stretched out +before us. He offered to supply me with a couple of horses, one for +myself and another for my baggage, and to send a rather +ruffianly-looking mulatto, half Spanish and half negro, his face badly +pitted with small pox, to act as guide, and also to bring back the +horses. He soon appeared with a bay, a grey, and a piebald, and I at +once occupied myself fitting my saddle and bridle on the former, and not +apparently to his satisfaction. The headstall of the bridle was too +long, the girths of the saddle too short; but at last I got them to +meet, and, slinging my belongings over the back of the piebald and +mounting his grey, my attendant made a start, and I followed a few paces +behind. Our departure being watched with great interest by the pulpero +and his family. We had not gone far when we got in among the rocks, or +"sierras," as they were called, lying in long large masses, not very +high except in places; although, often rising well above one's head as +you rode along through the breaks between. Owing to the shelter thus +afforded, this district was noted as being the resort of robbers. The +lay of the land favoured these gentlemen, as they could easily hide both +their horses and themselves among the rocks during the day, and then go +out with the moon at night to kill a young cow, or steal a horse, as +their fancy took them. They were not a pleasant lot to have to do with, +and I could see that my not understanding Spanish alone prevented my +dark-skinned guide from duly expatiating upon the dangers of the road. +Meanwhile, the sun was declining, and there was no wind. You could +hardly hear a sound, and a weird creepy kind of feeling came over me as +we entered a passage between two large rocks, higher and steeper than +hitherto, which seemed to twist and turn so that I could not help +wondering when and where we were going to come out. Every now and then +we came across a few cattle, which made off hurriedly as we approached, +and when we happened to see a horse or two they instantly got out of +sight round some turn of the rocks, evidently well-known to them, but +which seemed to me an all but impossible path. And so we kept jogging +along, until the rocks got smaller and fewer, and at length we came out +into a piece of open country, where a large flock of sheep were quietly +grazing, their faces apparently set, as their custom is at eventide, +towards home. About half a mile in front of us was the estancia whither +we were bound, quiet and peaceful as I first saw it in the rays of the +now setting sun. An azotea, or flat-roofed house, whitewashed outside; +near it two large "ombus," a tree much valued for its shade; to the left +three or four "ranchos," or huts, the walls of mud, the roofs of a reed +called "paja"; on one side a yard for sheep, and on the other a large +corral, in which to shut in horses and cattle; it did not look +imposing, but I saw it all with interest as being for me a resting +place, and with pleasure, for I had now reached the end of my long +journey. My friend, Robert Royd, saw me riding up, and came out to +welcome me. He had a fall from his horse, and sprained his knee, so was +prevented coming in to Monte Video to meet me, as he had hoped to do. I +was glad to see him again. I had known him in England when life held out +a different prospect for him, and we had neither of us heard of Uruguay. +How he came to be located at Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo he could hardly +have told you himself. He went out for a voyage to Monte Video, took a +fancy to the country and its climate, and to the open-air life, made up +his mind to set up as an estanciero in a small way, and here he was. I +had now to make the acquaintance of another person, Mr. Henry Marsh, +called by the natives Henriquez. He had exchanged life in a merchant's +office in London for a similar position in Mexico, where he had met with +misfortune. He had drifted down the coast, first to Pernambuco, and +afterwards to Monte Video, where he at length found himself without +money or friends. Royd happened to come across him, and taking a fancy +to him, brought him up country to look after a flock of sheep. He was a +pleasant little man, a regular cockney through and through. He became +somewhat plaintive whenever he talked of the past, and was apt to be +nervous and over-anxious; but he was willing and obliging, and always +glad to help in any way he could. He professed to understand and rather +to like Spaniards, but he was really in mortal fear of a native, and he +never went out far without a large revolver, and also a big knife stuck +in his belt behind, neither of which formidable weapons would he have +been at all willing to use. When I arrived, a Frenchman, whom we called +Pedro, was acting as cook. He was not at all fond of soap and water, nor +did he take much pride in the culinary art, for he apparently gave us an +endless succession of mutton chops. But however early you wanted to make +a start in the morning, he was always ready with hot coffee, and would +get you some food at almost any hour of the day. So as our movements +were often erratic, there were compensations. A native "peon," or +servant, and a boy to get up horses, completed the establishment. As +regards the stock, there were the flock of sheep before mentioned, about +nine hundred in number, and another larger one of about fifteen hundred, +towards the other end of the estancia, at a "puesto," as it was called +in the direction, but to the West of the pulperia of Guaycoru, where I +had first arrived in the diligence. The country was open there, being +outside the "sierras," and a young Englishman called Charles Bent had +arranged to take charge of this flock not long before I came upon the +scene. He was a nice young fellow, with fair hair and blue eyes. He had +a quick temper, but a kind heart. Having learnt farming in England in +the usual kind of way, he came out to Uruguay. He had some capital, +which he invested in sheep, and renting land up towards the Rio Negro, +started on his own account. But he was without South American +experience, and he had also bad luck: many of his sheep were stolen, +others died of disease, and after about three years his money had +vanished, and he was compelled, like others, to earn his living; so he +took to the usual occupation of looking after a flock of sheep. He was +always tidy and neat in appearance, and had a nice sheep dog, called +"Bob," which he had brought with him from England, then little more than +a puppy, of which he was very fond. There were seven hundred head of +cattle on the place, which fed in a semi-wild state among the rocks, on +a stretch of country some three and a half miles long, and half to +three-quarters of a mile broad, known as the estancia; as also did a +troop of mares and colts, mostly pretty wild. These latter were often +difficult to come across, and to run them up into the stone enclosure, +or "manga," near the house was no easy matter. We had seventeen riding +horses of varied quality, mostly brought up into the wooden corral near +the house every morning, so that we might each catch up a horse for the +needs of the day. The cattle were very apt to stray outside the boundary +of the estancia, and so get mixed up with those belonging to neighbours, +often causing annoyance. This was much more the case on the Eastern than +on the Western boundary, which was fortunate, as the natives living on +that side were not only more friendly, but had better places themselves, +and were therefore able to give us more help in keeping the cattle +apart. On the Western side the rocks became ever a greater feature of +the landscape, with but little open land between, thus forming a +suitable resort for "matreros," _i.e._, people in hiding, of doubtful +reputation, with no character whatever to lose. Here was where we had +reason to apprehend trouble, should a revolution break out. We each took +a turn to "repuntar," or drive in the cattle, which fed together in +groups, and the same thing took place with the mares and colts. They +also had to be continually turned inwards, and gathered up every now and +again into the "manga," or stone enclosure to be looked over. When you +had been some time at this work, it was wonderful how keen your eyesight +became, and how it adapted itself to your needs. For instance, you could +make out cattle and horses at a distance, when the ordinary observer +would hardly know they were animals at all. Moreover, your eye became +accustomed to tell you whether they were your own or your neighbour's, +by their manner of feeding when grouped, their apparent number, and +their behaviour when disturbed. Early morning and late afternoon was the +time for this work, especially in warm weather, as both horses and +cattle were glad to take advantage of the shelter of the high rocks +during the heat of the day. We had three dogs, which helped us greatly, +as they yelped and barked and chased the cattle to their heart's +content. I rather took to this work; there was a kind of excitement +about it, as you never quite knew whom you were likely to come across, +or what was likely to happen before you got home. At evening, too, if +you chanced to be late, there was a certain weirdness about it all: the +huge masses of rock casting their grey shadows as the sun fell towards +the horizon, and then when it had fully set, a great silence seemed to +fall upon everything. Scarcely a sound could be heard in any direction. +The "pteru-pteru," or wild plover, ceased his shrill cry, and both bird +and beast, active during daylight, quietly sought their rest. Not so, +however, those of the night, for when the short twilight was over, and +darkness had fairly set in you could hear strange sounds and noises, as +if something or other was at work, never seen nor heard during the day, +and the short bark of the wild fox would sound out sharp and clear as he +sallied forth in search of his prey. Then, indeed, you feel truly glad +when the welcome light of the estancia house tells you that you are +nearly home. Your horse, too, knows that he is near, that his work for +that day at any rate, is done, and he looks joyfully forward to joining +his companions, and to a peaceful time till morning. It was usual, once +a week, to gather up all the cattle together upon a spot selected for +that purpose, where a high post is fixed in the ground, around which +when collected the cattle revolve. Upon such an occasion, those who had +furthest to go were on horseback soon after dawn, each taking an +appointed route, and as he returned driving the cattle in front of him. +On this estancia there were special difficulties to contend with, as the +high masses of rock enabled here and there a point of cattle to break +back unseen, or if you did see them, probably it was at a place where it +was difficult to follow them. But the horses were truly wonderful, as +they carried you at a gallop over the rocky and uneven ground. They +seldom made a mistake; bred among the sierras, they were quite at home +there, and you soon learnt to give them their head, and to trust that +all would be well. With us this weekly gathering together of the cattle +never seemed entirely satisfactory. They never came up together all at +one time. One portion or another seemed always to be missing. The long, +narrow position of the estancia, and its rough and rocky character +probably accounted for this. Moreover, we were always short-handed, and +we could not keep any consecutive line as is done in more open country. +This was therefore a day of disappointment, and we could not help +fearing some of the cattle had been stolen; certainly we did not know +where to find them. Royd took this a good deal to heart, for when he +bought the herd this trouble had not been anticipated. The fact was the +cattle had got rather out of hand, and we also feared animals were being +killed on the camp, by "matreros," or fugitive soldiers, of whose +existence in the district we were at the time unaware, but who +afterwards proved themselves dangerous neighbours. Our sheep never +seemed to suffer; on the contrary, they did well; nor was Charles Bent +troubled in any way. For this we were thankful, and kept up our spirits +accordingly. As to the troop of mares and colts, they had things pretty +much their own way. They could gallop like the wind, and go faster over +the rough ground than we could, and we were obliged to try and run them +up to the manga, or stone enclosure, just as we happened most easily to +come across them. The summer, with its long hot afternoons, was now +passing, and the early autumn, perhaps the most pleasant time of the +southern year, was close upon us. As the weather got cooler, I was +continually out among the sierras looking after cattle, and I almost +always went alone. I had happened to fasten over a black bowler hat a +white "pugaree," with its ends hanging down behind to protect the back +of my neck from the sun, and late one afternoon when following a path +among the rocks with which I was well acquainted, my horse took a wrong +turn. In a few moments, passing from beneath the shadow of a large grey +rock to my right, I suddenly found myself in a small open space, about +one hundred yards long by thirty wide, where the grass grew green and +long, and a tiny stream trickled; quite an oasis in a small way. Here, +seated on the ground, their horses saddled and feeding near them, were +five men, apparently soldiers, for each had a broad red band round his +black felt hat, and a lance stuck in the ground, from which hung the red +banner. A fire was already lighted, over which was a large roast, part +of a young cow they had lately killed. A kettle was almost on the boil, +and they were evidently about to enjoy a meal. Their "arms" and +"ponchos" were piled in a heap, but each held either a knife or a short +dagger in his hand, and I noticed that two at least carried revolvers in +their belts. They were a rough-looking lot, as much surprised to see me +as I was to see them. For the moment I hardly knew what best to do. I +was quite unarmed, but did not wish to appear nervous or frightened; nor +could I make a satisfactory retreat. So I sat on my horse, perfectly +still, and then they all got up and surrounded me, gesticulating +violently, and pointing to the white covering of my hat, which seemed to +be the cause of the annoyance. My feigned composure somewhat calmed +their excitement. They told me to hand over my hat and, placing it on a +point of rock about fifteen paces distant, succeeded in putting a bullet +through it with a revolver, to their great amusement and satisfaction. +Meanwhile those who were not shooting tried to frighten me; making signs +with their knives that it was all over with me, but seeing I was an +Englishman they fortunately had no real motive to hurt me; had they +wished to do so, I was completely at their mercy. Being "colorados," +soldiers belonging to the Red Party, they chose to assume that the white +covering on my hat was a Blanco device; but of course, they knew this +was not so. Finally, they allowed me to depart unharmed, returning to me +my hat, minus its white covering which they tore in pieces, but still +with the bullet hole in it as a proof of what happened. The matter was +not much in itself, but it shewed that mischief was brewing, and that it +was becoming unsafe to ride about in the rocks alone, more especially if +unarmed. From that day forth I also started a revolver, to the proper +loading of which I saw carefully before going any distance away. When I +got home and related what happened, it did not tend to reassure poor +Royd, who was rather in low spirits about things in general. He had +moreover heard that afternoon from a passing traveller there was a +rumour a revolution had actually broken out. However, a week passed, and +we heard no more of it, so we followed our usual occupations, leaving +matters to declare themselves. A few days later, when running up a point +of mares, we managed to include three colts which hitherto had always +eluded us. They were all chestnuts, very wild, very fast, with long +flowing manes and tails. Two of them had a broad white blaze, each with +two white hind feet. The third was larger than the others, with long, +sloping quarters; rather a light chestnut, with a white star on his +forehead and nothing more. He had good shoulders and a smooth easy way +of slipping along which greatly took my fancy. So I bought him for a +nominal sum and handed him over to a decent little native named Severo +to break in for me. When he returned the horse to me I found he quite +justified my expectations, and although still a bit raw he was easy and +pleasant to ride; and I called him _Carnival_. I also took rather an +interest in Severo, who was a beautiful rider, with a good seat and +light hands. He could speak a few words of English; where he had learned +them I did not know, but he seemed anxious to be communicative, and to +teach me a few words of Spanish when I went to see how my horse was +getting on. He had lately married, and lived in a rancho, or native hut, +only a short distance from our Southern boundary. When I arrived I was +invited to sit down on their only chair, placed in the centre of the +room, Severo himself sitting on a little wooden stool, while the bride +served Mate, a liquid made by pouring boiling water on a couple of +spoonfuls of "yerba," a kind of tea grown in Brazil; a favourite +beverage among the Spaniards. The Mate is really the gourd in which the +tea is served. You suck it into your mouth through a bombilla, or silver +tube, which latter, if you are not careful, is apt to get so hot as +often to burn your lips. This beverage and the offer of a cigarette is +the orthodox form of native hospitality. + +One morning a party of soldiers showing Red colours galloped up +unexpectedly and took Severo prisoner, with a view to making him serve +in the Government forces. Remonstrance was in vain! He had to saddle up +his best horse and to start at once. His poor young wife was in despair, +and she rode up in tears to tell Royd of her trouble. It was useless to +attempt to get him back, so we comforted her as best we could, with the +hope that her husband would manage to make his escape at the first +convenient opportunity. If he belonged to any political party it was to +the "Blancos," with whom his wife's people had always been mixed up. +This made the enforced separation a greater trial to both of them. It +was fortunate for me that "Carnival" had already been returned to me, or +he also would probably have fallen into their hands. That same afternoon +a party of "Colorados" called at the estancia to take our "peon," or +native servant, for a soldier, but he saw them coming in time, and got +away among the rocks and hid himself before they arrived, so they were +obliged to go away without him. It was evident the Reds were taking up +men not only for the ordinary strengthening of the Government forces, +but for some special purpose. This, and the persistent rumour we were +constantly hearing of a revolution having broken out in the direction of +the "Rio Negro," put us upon our guard, and we took such measures as we +could to look sharply after our stock, more especially our horses, and +to avoid being taken unawares. We also looked up our arms and +ammunition, and considered what we could do for the best in case of any +serious and sudden trouble. The position of Uruguay was at this time +probably unique in the usual stormy history of a South American +republic. Torn by faction and internal strife, peace alone seemed +wanting to ensure its progress and prosperity. The many natural +advantages, such as a good climate, abundant water, grassy plains, and +the beautiful woods which bordered the rivers, rendered it especially +suitable for pastoral purposes. Agriculture was as yet almost unknown, +except in the immediate neighbourhood of the towns, and was then of the +most primitive description. But the land itself was fertile in many +districts, consisting of a rich black loam, where crops of wheat and +maize would give excellent results, and an abundant yield could be +anticipated in suitable situations from a virgin and not easily +exhausted soil. The Flores war, which had lasted for three years, had +ended in the temporary subjugation of the Blanco, or White Party, and +the placing in power of a "Colorado," or Red government. This was not in +sympathy with the majority of the people, more especially those engaged +in pastoral pursuits, such as the raising of sheep and cattle, headed by +the large native land owners, mostly "Blancos," and therefore bitterly +opposed to the "Colorados," or "Reds." These latter often had a majority +in and near the provincial towns, and especially in Monte Video, the +capital. They were led by what may be termed professional politicians, +their soldiers being partly made up of paid foreigners, forming fairly +efficient infantry, together with a large number of natives, whom they +pressed in their service when in power. Some of these, too, received +payment, so long as their party possessed sufficient funds, while a +great number got very little except their food and arms. Their bands of +irregular horse comprised anyone and everyone who had nothing to do, +together with what might be termed the scum of the townsmen, who had +nothing whatever to lose; least of all their reputation. Moreover, there +were certain families, Reds by tradition, whose heads occupied the +government posts when the "Colorados" were in power, and whose minor +members and hangers-on swarmed in the Public Offices. There were also +certain "estancieros" throughout the country, especially up towards the +Brazilian frontier, many of them influential and wealthy, whose politics +had always been Red, and who were supporters of the "Colorado Party." +But they were not nearly so united either in heart or sympathy as were +the Blancos, nor did they cultivate the same enthusiasm. The Blancos +included the descendants of most of the old Castilian families, who had +been the original Spanish Colonists, and they possessed, therefore, a +certain aristocratic element, if you could justly so term it, as being +part of the inner life of the republic. Their importance and influence, +and comparative wealth, accrued mainly from landed property and the +countless herds of sheep and cattle which spread themselves far and +wide, finding good and abundant pasturage on the rolling and +grass-covered plains. While therefore the "Reds" were enabled to +maintain themselves in power by means of an ample supply of money, so +long as they could control the resources of the republic, popular +sympathy in general was with the White Party; indeed, so great was the +disaffection and discontent at this particular time, it needed but a +spark, as it were, applied to gunpowder to set the whole country in a +flame. It only required a real leader, who commanded the full confidence +of the native population, to come upon the scene, and to raise high the +standard of revolt, for the people to flock to his banner far and wide +throughout the country. Thus, as it were in a moment, in a South +American republic, is a revolution born and made. Nor can this be +wondered at when you consider that intrigue and revolution is but a +natural attribute of all populations of purely Spanish descent, and when +you come to mingle an Indian and Italian and foreign element, and then +try to purify the whole by an admixture of the unruly blood of Spain, +the result means a state of general unrest, and a condition of affairs +in which the seeds of revolution are for ever present. Another incentive +is that during a revolution, horses are looked upon as munitions of war, +and may be taken from their owners as required, to be returned and paid +for as Providence may permit. Sheep and cattle, too, required for food, +may be commandeered by armed troops as necessity requires, a nominal +receipt for their value being usually given by the officer in charge, +which in all probability will never be paid. All this naturally gives an +opportunity to the less honest and self-respecting classes of the +community to live a free, roving, careless kind of life at other +people's expense. Although natives will tell you they hate the law of +conscription which obliges them to serve for a time in the army, this is +by no means always really true. Moreover, many of those who are poor are +apt to look upon time of war as a means of relief from the necessity for +honest toil, always distasteful to the Spaniard of South America. They, +moreover, manage to console themselves fairly well for a temporary +absence from their home, with a dim and ill-defined hope that if only +they have good luck they may possibly come out of it all considerably +better off than they went in. One afternoon, a "tropero," or buyer of +cattle, rode up to the house to enquire if we had any fat bullocks to +sell. He told us he was making up a large troop round about the +neighbourhood to take in to Monte Video. Of course, he was full of news +about the revolution, and he should not be surprised if war were to +break out at any time. As he offered Royd fifteen dollars each for any +bullocks which were fat, the latter thought it best to turn anything he +could into cash. So it was arranged we should have a gathering together +of the cattle on the following day, so as to allow the purchaser to part +out what he wished, and he also arranged to stay the night with us. He +was a pleasant man, well-dressed, and the silver fittings of his native +saddle and bridle were quite magnificent. A little before dawn next +morning found us all on the move. The cook had already got hot coffee. +Our horses had been tied up the night before, and we saddled up just as +day was breaking, and one after another slipped quietly away, each of +us taking his appointed line in the general drive up of the herd. The +tropero himself did not go, but his two young men lent a hand, we, of +course, finding them horses. This morning things went better with us +than usual, and twice when the wildest of the bullocks made a rush and +tried to break back they were effectively stopped and disappointed. +Altogether we had a very good "para rodeo," but few of our cattle +apparently remaining behind. Next followed the parting out of the fat +animals. A short distance away from the general herd, which kept +revolving round a large post placed in the centre of the "rodeo," about +a dozen tame animals were stationed, guarded by a couple of young +natives. Each fat bullock, as it was selected by the "tropero," was then +run out of the herd into this little group, the tropero and his head man +commencing operations by running them out himself. It was all very +neatly done. They rode quietly in among the cattle, which we kept +rounded up on every side. Fixing their attention upon a fat bullock, +they placed their horses close up to it, one on either side, and so ran +it out with a sudden rush in the direction of the tame animals. +Sometimes it refused to be so dealt with, and persistently broke back at +all costs. Then the lasso was brought into play, and after it had been +lassoed and bullied about it generally thought better of it and did what +was required. For this particular work the rider must possess not only +skill, but he must be well mounted. His horse must be fast and active on +his legs; he must be intelligent, so as to enter thoroughly into the +spirit of the work, and he must also have plenty of courage. At the same +time he must exercise caution, and thoroughly know his business, +otherwise either he or his rider, probably both, may get caught on the +horns of the bullock and so come to serious grief. But it is wonderful +to see how a good horse will himself enjoy it, and with what marvellous +perfection and accuracy he will perform his part. The rider, too, must +have good nerves, and above all a firm seat, and an accurate eye for +judging distance. As a rule, however, if he is really well mounted, the +more he trusts to his horse and the less he worries him the better. +Meanwhile, to Royd's gratification, the tropero parted out fifty fat +bullocks; quite a good parting for our comparatively small herd, but, as +a matter of fact, our cattle did wonderfully well among the rocks if +only they were left quiet. They had plenty of clear water, and the +grasses which grew there were sweet and nourishing, while in summer time +they greatly enjoyed both the shade and shelter. On the following day, +Friday, I rode over to the pulperia, or store, at Guaycoru and, as +several things were wanted, I took the boy with me, mounted on an old +grey horse, across the saddle of which a pair of large saddle bags were +slung, in which to carry them. We had not long arrived at the pulperia +when a native rode up, mounted on a fine "oscuro," or _dark_ brown +horse, with a long flowing mane and tail, his reins, breastplate, and +stirrups all mounted in solid silver. He was a good-looking man, +something over thirty years of age; a slight but firmly knit figure as +he sat on his horse, with the easy, graceful seat of one born almost in +the saddle. His wide black "bombachos," or loose trousers, tucked inside +high boots, ornamented with silver spurs. The broad-brimmed felt hat, +the long "facon," a two-edged dagger, stuck in his belt, and a white +silk handkerchief tied loosely round his neck, all betokened the +"Spanish caballero," the free, independent life of the horseman on the +open plain. Quickly dismounting, he carelessly strolled into the +"pulperia," with the usual "Buenos tardes Senores," "Good afternoon, +gentlemen." But as he passed me I noticed that he was fully armed, and +had also an alert watchful look about him, and the thought passed +through my mind that here at any rate was no ordinary man. He talked a +few moments to the pulpero, somewhat earnestly, and then came forward, +raising his hat, and offered me a cigarette, remarking something about +the heat of the afternoon. Soon after, I and the boy, having collected +our purchases, mounted our horses to return. Just as we rode round the +edge of the outbuildings a dark-skinned individual in somewhat tattered +garments rose from a low seat where he had been sitting smoking, and +came hurriedly forward. "Did you speak to the Senor with the 'oscuro,'" +he asked. "Yes!" I replied, "what about him?" The mulatto smiled and +showed his white teeth, and then said, almost in a whisper, "You do not +know him! Mamerto Godez! Cuidado! (Beware)." + +One afternoon just about three o'clock, I was sitting in the dining room +writing a letter. It was quite warm, and both door and windows stood +wide open. Royd and Henriquez had gone off to a pulperia owned by a man +called Saballa, on the other side of the River Rosario, to buy some +necessaries. I heard the dogs barking, but paid no attention, when +suddenly half a dozen soldiers with the white device round their hats, +and carrying the white banner on their lances, rode up from behind the +house and halted at the front door. I went out and stood right in front +of them. One who seemed superior to the others accosted me in Spanish, +and I understood him to say that war had broken out, and that their +business was to take up men and horses. Pedro the cook, so soon as he +saw them, had gone to hide among the rocks, fearing, I suppose, lest he +should be taken off for a soldier, Frenchman though he was! However, I +explained as well as my scanty knowledge of Spanish would permit exactly +who were employed, and I also told him about our horses. The result of +it all was that they rode off more or less satisfied, saying that as +"Don Roberto" was away they would call about them another time. About +five o'clock Royd and Henriquez returned, having obtained all they +wanted, and also bringing news. A revolution had broken out far and wide +throughout the country, and a Colonel Aparicio, who had distinguished +himself in a previous war, when General Flores and the Colorados were +victorious, had apparently taken temporary command of the Blanco forces, +which were increasing enormously day by day. That evening we held a +consultation as to how we could act for the best. Royd was naturally +rather despondent, for the rocky nature of the estancia obviously +increased our difficulty in protecting and guarding the stock, besides +affording a safe refuge for thieves and bad characters of every kind. +This was always a drawback in time of peace, and, of course, the danger +would be infinitely greater in time of war. However, there seemed +nothing for it but to await events, and meanwhile do our best to keep +our cattle and horses together as well as we could. The flock of sheep +near the house fed where the land was open, and Henriquez looked after +them. Should he be away, then either I or the boy did so for him. The +other flock up towards Guaycoru fed also in open country, and Charles +Bent was careful and reliable, and could be trusted to look well after +them. He seldom went away from his "puesto," or hut, where he lived +alone, his sole companion being his sheep-dog, "Bob," which he had +brought out with him, when little more than a puppy, from England. He +had one or two neighbours on his further side, who were friendly, and he +also was no great distance from the pulperia where I had first arrived +in the diligence; so up to now he had not found it quite so lonely as +might have been expected. The stone manga, where we could shut in +horses, and also a fair number of cattle, was in a broken and bad +condition, and Royd decided that he would get an Italian stonemason and +his son, who lived not very far away, towards the Rosario, to come over +and build up all the gaps and so put it in good order. Meanwhile, we had +to get the stone from where it lay among the big rocks; no easy job! It +then had to be put upon a wooden truck to which a pair of bullocks were +yoked, who slowly conveyed it to the corral. Fortunately, for a few days +the weather was fine and cool. We all took our share of this work, which +was tedious and tiring. We got a good supply by the time the stonemason +and his son arrived. The father was a thin, rather careworn-looking man, +beyond middle age, with hair fast turning grey; the son, a wiry-looking +youth of about sixteen, with black hair and a sallow complexion. With +them came a sandy-yellow coloured dog, eleven months old, very thin and +lanky-looking, but with muscular limbs, a long, straight back, a broad +forehead, small ears, and a pair of very intelligent eyes. For some +reason or other he took a fancy to me, and I saw he was well fed, for +which he seemed very grateful. He had the look of a lurcher, and was, of +course, a mongrel. He was the son's dog, from whom I bought him for a +couple of dollars. He was called "Napoleon," and I never altered his +name. We saw no more of the soldiers, so we contented ourselves with +keeping a constant eye on the horses, leaving the cattle for the time +being to look after themselves, nor did we attempt to gather them up to +the "rodeo," while the stonemason and his son were with us. Having +finished their work they bid us adieu, received payment, and with many +thanks, took their departure. "Napoleon" did not evince the least desire +to go back with them, for when they mounted their horses he came and lay +down by me, showing no sorrow at his change of owners. Following on all +this, I resumed my work of riding out among the rocks to look up the +cattle again, and the dog seemed very glad to go with me. I had not been +at this more than a couple of days when I thought I missed a point of +animals I had always been accustomed to find feeding more or less in the +same locality. I reported this to Royd, who had not been very well. I +think he had overdone himself, when we were all so busy collecting the +stone. He decided we should have a "para rodeo," or gathering together +of the herd, so as to form a better idea whether any of our cattle had +been stolen. So on Saturday morning we all sallied forth just after +daybreak, our horses having been tied up the night before. The gathering +up, however, was not a successful one, for although we did not let any +we saw break back, when we got them upon the rodeo they certainly seemed +fewer than usual. From the way they came up we hardly thought any had +stayed behind among the rocks. The next day Royd and I took a turn round +to visit our neighbours, to enquire if any of our cattle had been seen +by them. They welcomed us in a friendly manner, and were all apparently +anxious to talk about the war, and to relate all they had heard +regarding it. But we could hear nothing about our missing cattle. All, +therefore, we could do was to arrange for another gathering up within a +week, and two of our neighbours kindly offered to help us. They arranged +to meet us at the far end of the estancia, just after sunrise, and a +couple of native boys came with them. However, when we got the herd +collected on the "rodeo," they again seemed to be fewer than usual, so +we shut part of them up in the stone manga, for it would not hold them +all, and first counted those outside and then those inside, and we were +sadly compelled to conclude that quite fifty animals were missing. Where +to find them we did not know, and we could only hope they would turn up +again at the next para-rodeo. + +A few days later, Henriquez started off early in the afternoon to +Saballa's pulperia, with the large saddle-bags slung over his saddle to +bring back his purchases. He returned just before sunset, and we at once +saw by his manner that something unusual had happened. He told us the +people at the pulperia were much upset because on the previous day a +little over a mile away, down near the wood which bordered the river +Rosario, a poor Italian musician had been found lying with his throat +cut from ear to ear. Whoever had done the deed appeared to have tied a +poor little monkey to the ankle of the dead man, and so to have left +them by the side of his small barrel-organ, which was also much broken. +The body was lying at the pulperia when Henriquez arrived, waiting +permission for burial; and he also saw the monkey, which was being taken +care of. It certainly shewed there were some very wicked people about, +as from the footprints round the place where the body was found, it +would seem that whoever did it was not alone. The Italian had been +playing two nights before at the house of a native, where there had been +a small dance, when several girls and young men were present, all of +whom, however, were well-known. In the morning he had some coffee given +to him, and left the house quite well, en route for the pulperia, and +late that afternoon his body was found by a casual passer-by, who at +once gave notice of what had happened. Poor Henriquez was greatly +affected during the evening, and kept repeating over and over again, +"Pobre Italiano" (poor Italian). "There he lay with his throat cut from +ear to ear. Oh! it's 'orrid, 'orrid, 'orrid!" For in his distress the +cockney accent became more pronounced than ever. + +When, however, he had somewhat recovered his composure, he told us the +Whites were assembling in large force up towards Paysandu, and that many +Blancos from our neighbourhood had already gone outside to join them. +Meanwhile, the Reds were assembling in the province of San Jose, as also +in the Department of Colonia, and he seemed to think at present we had +more to fear from the Government forces so far as our horses and cattle +were concerned than we had from the revolutionists. As "Carnival" was +rather a good-looking horse, I caught him up most days, although I only +rode him occasionally. I let him out to feed late in the afternoon, when +so far as we knew all seemed to be quiet. Royd had an "ovaro," or +piebald, he thought a lot of, and also a grey he often rode, and +Henriquez took all the care he could of a nice little chestnut he was +very proud of, and always rode on special occasions. Things now went on +much as usual, and we had no visit from the Red soldiers, for which we +were thankful. I was out pretty regularly looking up the cattle, and I +kept on fancying from time to time that some were missing; nor, when we +had the para rodeo did I ever think as many came up as used to do. We +had some of the small fallow deer of the pampas about among the rocks, +and they could often be seen coming out towards late afternoon into the +open glades to feed. I managed to shoot four of them with my rifle, and +took off their skins which, when dried in the sun, soften easily. I also +shot a couple of "carpinchos," a kind of water-pig, which could often be +seen about sunset on the bank of the stream running along the western +side of the camp. They are hard to get near, and easily frightened. +Their skins are much thought of by the natives, who get them tanned, and +put them across the top of their "recados," or saddles. A few days later +we were all sitting at breakfast when Charles Bent arrived. He had +someone staying with him at the puesto for a few days, so was able to +get away. He told us he had not been troubled by soldiers, and that the +sheep were all right. But he said it was rumoured cattle had been stolen +from a small native estancia, beyond where he lived, which belonged to a +"Blanco," and it was supposed they had been taken by some "Colorado" +soldiers, who wished to escape service, and whose chief hiding place was +said to be among the large sierras on our camp. Royd did not like the +look of this at all, as if true it would prove a great danger to our +cattle, and might easily account for the number we thought missing. Bent +stayed the night, and did not go back until next afternoon. He told me +privately he believed there were some bad characters hiding among the +rocks, but that he did not wish to say more than he could help to Royd, +as he was apt to take things so much to heart, and it might cause him +needless worry. But he begged me to be careful, and take every +precaution when riding about among the sierras alone, looking up the +cattle, and he advised me to have "Napoleon" with me, and to see that I +was well armed. He also said he did not feel very happy himself, living +alone at the "puesto," but as it was well outside the rocks, surrounded +by open country, he intended to keep a sharp look-out and if possible to +avoid being taken unawares. + +Fortunately, he had a placid, easy-going temperament, and was not at all +nervous, nor was he inclined to meet trouble half-way. The following +Friday, a little before eleven, a Blanco officer arrived, and with him +about fifty soldiers. They were passing from the town of Colla, towards +Guaycoru, and going on to join the White army. They had several extra +horses with them, so they did not trouble much about ours, except a +saino, or brown, which was feeding not far from the house, and this they +asked to take along with them. I had "Carnival" tied up and saddled, as +also was Royd's piebald, and Henriquez happened to be riding his +chestnut down with the sheep. The other horses were among the rocks, so +they did not see them. We invited the officer in to breakfast, which, +after the Spanish fashion, we were accustomed to have at eleven o'clock, +and dinner at sundown. He was quite young, having served but a short +time in the army. He asked if his men might have something to eat, which +meant they would like to kill a couple of sheep, and roast the meat over +two fires made in the open. They also had some "farenha," a kind of +meal, which they eat raw, with roast meat, and cooked into a sort of +pudding with boiled. We also gave them "yerba" and sugar to make their +mate, or native tea, and they were quite happy. They were all more or +less armed with either lances or guns, and many carried both. Many had a +revolver, and often a facon, or double-edged knife, stuck in their belts +behind; but taking them all round, they were quite orderly, and the +young officer seemed to have them under good control. He told us that +the revolution was extremely popular. Men were flocking far and wide to +the White banner, and up towards Paysandu had already joined in very +large numbers. He asked us if any of the "Colorados" had come to the +estancia, and if we knew of any being about in our neighbourhood. As +they departed they looked quite picturesque, with the Blanco device +round their hats, and the white banner flying from their lances, many +leading their spare horses. They all rode off at a trotte-cito, or +jog-trot, the young officer following alone in solitary grandeur behind. +But their visit, although it passed off quite well, seemed unduly to +depress poor Royd, whom we found it difficult to persuade into taking +anything like a cheerful view of the situation. + +Towards the end of the next week, Henriquez said he should like to ride +over and visit a friend who lived at a small native place on the other +side of Guaycoru. So it was arranged he should go on Saturday morning, +returning home on the Monday, and that I should keep an eye on the flock +of sheep. They did not feed far distant from the house, and when once +turned early in the afternoon, usually fed quietly on their way home. So +on Saturday morning after coffee, Henriquez caught and saddled up his +chestnut, putting on his best gear, and wearing a clean white shirt, a +black jacket and waistcoat, and a pair of black "merino bombachos," or +wide trousers, tucked inside a pair of carefully polished long boots. On +these he buckled a pair of silver spurs, of which he was very proud, as +also of the handsome silver buttons fastening the wide belt of carpincho +skin he wore round his waist. Finally he put on his summer poncho, a +very nice one, and a soft broad-brimmed felt hat completed his +appearance, which seemed to give him every satisfaction. Just before +mounting his horse he examined his revolver, which he carefully fixed in +its proper place inside his belt. I rode with him for about half a mile, +and the last I saw of him was as he turned round the corner of a large +grey mass of rock which bordered the track, and so disappeared from +view. He did not return on the Monday as expected, and on the Tuesday +morning when the boy drove up the riding horses to the corral, much to +our surprise his chestnut was among them, with a bit of broken hide +hanging loosely down from where it was fastened round the horse's neck. +We supposed, however, it had been collared to a mare where Henriquez was +staying, as was a usual custom, and had broken away during the early +part of the previous night, and so found its way home. However, both +Tuesday and Wednesday passed and he did not return, as we felt quite +sure he would do, on a horse borrowed from his friends. So on Thursday +morning I started to ride over to the place where Henriquez had gone, +and during my absence the boy was to watch the sheep. Arriving there, as +I did, about nine o'clock, my surprise may be imagined when I was told +that Henriquez had left them about two o'clock on the Monday afternoon, +quite well, mounted on his own horse, and that he seemed anxious to +reach home with as little delay as possible. I stayed about half an hour +discussing the situation, and then started to ride to the pulperia at +Guaycoru, to make further enquiries. When I got there the owner knew +nothing, nor had he heard anything regarding Henriquez from anyone who +had come to his pulperia. He was a kind little man, and much concerned +at my news, and he promised to enquire from anyone who called at his +house if perchance they might have seen Henriquez, or heard any news of +him. I stayed a little while and got some coffee and two or three +biscuits, and then remounted a big brown horse I was riding, somewhat +loosely put together, but sure-footed all the same, and well-accustomed +to stony country. He had a head quite half of it white, and two wall +eyes, known to the natives as a "pampa," by which name he usually went. +Horses of this type and colour were said to have belonged to the +original Indians of the "Pampas," at the time of the Spanish +colonisation. After again talking things over with the pulpero, we +agreed my best plan would be to ride round by Bent's puesto, in case he +should have heard anything, and if not, I could let him know what had +happened, so that he too might make enquiries. I arrived a little before +one o'clock, and saw Bent walking close to his house as I rode up. "Bob" +ran out barking, but immediately knew me and gave me a friendly +greeting. Bent, of course, had known Henriquez well, and was much +perturbed by what I had to tell him. He had neither seen nor heard +anything. All he could tell me was that it was rumoured there were a +party of thieves supposed to be fugitives from the Reds, who were said +to have taken up their quarters in the rocks, and were stealing small +points of cattle and sheep as opportunity offered. These they were +supposed to drive off at night if there was any moon, or else +immediately after daybreak, to a place some considerable distance away, +where they were said to collect them, and where doubtless they had +friends ready to receive them. All this, however, was not very +comforting, but I asked Bent to be sure and let us know at once if he +heard any news of Henriquez, and also to make his disappearance known to +anyone he might happen to come across, for he lived not very far from +the "camino real," or Government road. I then mounted my horse, +determined to lose no time in getting back to the estancia as soon as +might be. I knocked the "pampa" along at about his best pace, +considering the broken ground over which I had to pass. I always had a +queer feeling passing through the rocks. You could see so little in +front of you, and were so easily apt to miss your way. However, it was +barely half past two when I rode up. Royd was at home, and at once came +out of the house. He was much shocked and greatly upset by what I had to +tell him, saying again and again he felt quite sure the worst had +happened, and that we should none of us ever see or hear of poor +Henriquez again. On Friday Royd and I spent the day searching the tracks +which ran through the rocky part of the estancia; first those over which +a horseman returning direct to the house was most likely to pass, and +then the ones which ran out on either side, which it was not usual for a +traveller to follow. We came across various signs that men with horses +had recently been passing in and out of the sierras, for twice we came +across places where apparently a young cow had been killed and a fire +made near, where part of it at any rate had evidently been roasted, and +that quite recently. On Saturday we carefully searched over another +portion of the estancia, but all without result. Not a sign could we see +of the missing man. Henriquez "had simply vanished!" On Monday morning +we sent the boy over to the pulperia at Guaycoru with a letter to the +pulpero, asking if he could give us any news. But all in vain; no one +had seen or heard anything of him since he started from his friends' +house on his chestnut horse to return home on that Monday afternoon, now +exactly a week ago. Tuesday passed and nothing came to relieve our +suspense. But on Wednesday morning Bent turned up about eleven o'clock, +and I saw at once by his face that something had happened. Having his +friend with him, he started on his horse to come down to the estancia, +and not wishing to be away longer than he could help, he chose a track +which ran through the centre of the rocks in a diagonal direction, not +usually followed, which came out not more than three-quarters of a mile +from the estancia house itself. Contrary to his custom, "Bob" followed +his master, instead of staying at the puesto, where the sheep were, +until his return. Bent was riding carefully along this track when "Bob" +suddenly began to whine and bark, and turning off on one side +disappeared round a big rock. + +Bent whistled and called, but the dog did not return. So he got off his +horse and tied him up to a low bush which happened to be near. He then +took out his revolver and followed on foot in the direction the dog had +gone. He only went about fifty yards just round the edge of the large +rock already mentioned when he found himself in a small open glade, some +thirty yards long, and perhaps fifteen wide, at the far end of which +stood "Bob," close by an object which lay stretched on the ground. Here +was all that remained of poor Henriquez. He was lying slightly on one +side, face downwards; his hat and poncho, and his long boots and silver +spurs, his jacket and waistcoat, belt and revolver all gone! How he ever +came there goodness only knew. Nothing was left but his white shirt, his +black bombachos, and his stockings. It seemed as if the body must have +been either carried or dragged to the place where it lay. His face +looked peaceful, and the only thing to be noticed were signs of a wound +where a bullet had entered just between the shoulders, apparently fired +from behind. There were no signs of bruised or broken grass or horses' +footprints, if indeed a horse could have got round the very narrow space +beside the big rock. Bent covered the face with his pocket handkerchief, +leaving the body lying exactly as it was when he found it, and then +returning to where he had left his horse came on straight to the +estancia. Royd was greatly affected by the sad news which Bent brought +us, as well he might be. However, he said that he and I had better go +back with Bent to the place, taking the native peon and a spade and pick +with us, so that we might dig a grave, and so give the body a decent +burial. Fortunately, we found a spot close by, where the stones and rock +underneath the surface soil were more or less loose and detached. When +we had finished digging the grave, Bent read a portion of the burial +service, as we lowered all that remained of poor Henriquez into his last +resting-place. We then filled in the earth again, placing the loose +pieces of rock we had got out so that they covered and protected the +top, our intention being later on to fix a wooden cross, suitably +inscribed at the head of the grave, permanently to mark the place where +our poor friend lay. It was late afternoon as Royd and I slowly and +sorrowfully wended our way home, closely followed by the native peon, +for Bent had returned to his puesto so soon as the interment was finally +completed. Nothing much happened during the next few days. We had a +gathering together of the cattle, but we were short-handed, and when we +got them up to the rodeo we were compelled to conclude that a good many +of them were missing. One morning, about nine o'clock, a dozen +Government soldiers rode up, each with a red band round his hat and the +red banner flying from their lances. They were not too civil, and merely +said they were taking up horses and men. Our native peon was away among +the rocks, looking for two of our riding horses, which were missing. +Pedro, the cook, had retired to a dark corner of the kitchen. Our other +horses were feeding at some distance from the house, but they asked for +them to be brought up into the corral, so that they might take what they +required. So we sent off the native boy to bring them in. Fortunately, +"Carnival" and Royd's two horses happened to be feeding alone much +further away, so they did not come up with the others, and the soldiers +never saw them. They ended by taking five, including the pampa, +previously mentioned, and they left us two in very poor condition. It +was rather a trial to see them go off, but the soldiers gave us no +choice in the matter, so we could not do otherwise than let them go. +They also asked for some meat, and taking with them the greater part of +a sheep which was hanging in the galpon, they rode off in the direction +of Guaycoru, and we were pleased to see them depart without causing us +further trouble. + +On the Monday following, Royd rode over to stay until the end of the +week with some friends who had an estancia a few miles on our side of +the town of San Jose. Nothing happened during his absence until Friday, +when Bent rode up about eight o'clock in the morning, looking much +perturbed. Fortunately, his friend had been staying with him at the +puesto as he so often did, for he told me that during the night not only +had about two-thirds of his flock been driven off and could not be found +anywhere in the morning, but that the puesto itself had been attacked +just after midnight by four men, all apparently fully armed. They had +doubtless expected Bent to be alone, but his dog "Bob" was sleeping at +the foot of his bed, and woke him up from sleep by his growling, and so +gave the alarm. + +The puesto was a long, narrow building, built mostly of wood, thickly +plastered inside and out with mud, the inside being well whitewashed +throughout. The roof was thatched with a reed called "paja," much used +for the purpose, for it kept the house both warm in winter, and cool in +summer, and was an excellent protection against heavy rain. The front +door stood close up towards one end of the building, facing West. Inside +were two rooms, each with a window facing East, divided by a wall, so as +to make a living-room, into which you entered, with a sleeping-room +beyond. This latter had also an extra piece built on to it at right +angles, so as to give more sleeping accommodation, one of the walls of +which overlooked the front door. In the middle of this wall, about four +feet from the ground was a small wooden frame about eighteen inches +square which had been put in the wall for the purpose of ventilation, +and inside this was a moveable shutter which slid easily sideways, +secured by a small iron hook to keep it in its place. Both frame and +shutter were somewhat discoloured, so they were not easily noticed, +appearing more or less the same as the mud wall outside. The moon was +almost full, every now and again shaded over by light cloud, which came +slowly sailing up from the south, although there was really but little +wind. + +The flock had gone quietly to rest on the large bare open space, where +they usually passed the night, perhaps one hundred and fifty yards +distant from the front door of the building. Bent had taken a look at +them between nine and ten o'clock, before retiring to rest, when they +appeared quite still, and everything quiet. It would be about two +o'clock in the morning, when "Bob" began to growl in low but savage +tones, which awoke Bent and his friend, who soon got into their clothes +and had hold of their revolvers, which were always kept loaded. +Meanwhile, Bent thought he could hear low voices outside the front door, +so with great presence of mind he pushed the table which stood in the +middle of the sitting-room up against it, and the chairs also, thus +forming a sort of barricade. Leaving his friend to press the table +inside against the front door as hard as he could, and also "Bob," who +was then barking violently. Bent hurried round to the wooden shutter in +his friend's bedroom wall, already mentioned, and drew it quietly back +without making any noise. Looking through it he saw four men fully armed +trying to force open the front door. He could also see their horses +standing saddled near the outside kitchen only a few yards away. He +promptly fired full at the nearest man, who forthwith uttered a loud +cry, apparently wounded. He then fired two more shots in quick +succession, but after the first shot the men made for their horses in +great confusion, mounted them, and hurriedly rode away. + +The two horses which were missing a week ago had not yet turned up, so I +sent out the boy to have a good look round among the rocks, and if +possible to find them, for I feared lest they had been stolen, which +ultimately proved to be the case, for we never saw them again. Leaving +the native peon at the house to look after the sheep, I started with +Bent to go to the puesto, so that we might try if we could hear +anything of all the sheep he told me were missing. His friend appeared +glad to see us, for he had received rather a shock, and did not much +like, after all that had happened, being there by himself. When we came +to count up the sheep we found the number remaining to be barely six +hundred some nine hundred having disappeared, which was indeed a heavy +loss. Poor Bent seemed very sad about it, and well he might be! We could +only conclude that the four men who attacked the puesto must have had +accomplices, who drove off the sheep earlier in the night without +causing much disturbance, by first turning them off the bare place where +the flock was resting across the ground where they were accustomed to +feed, before finally driving them off, as they appeared to have done. In +so doing the strongest and best sheep would naturally go in front, while +those which were weaker and less valuable would be the ones to stay +behind. Seeing that four armed men had attacked the puesto, it seemed +probable that at least an equal number had carried off the sheep. The +fact that there was so much rocky and broken country in the +neighbourhood of the estancia, and not very far away, made it all the +more difficult to obtain any clue as to the route the thieves might have +taken. The ground was hard, and we could find no trace of where the +stolen sheep had passed. + +Having done all we could in this direction, Bent and I separated, each +of us riding round to two or three of the neighbours whom we knew, to +make them aware of what had happened. Late in the afternoon I called at +the pulperia at Guaycoru, hoping I might perhaps hear something +there--but all the owner could tell me was he had heard a rumour that +Mamerto Gomez, the man I had once spoken to at his house, had been seen +three days previously with half a dozen other men entering the rocks, +fully armed, from the opposite side, but for what purpose or whether +they were in any way connected with the carrying off of the sheep, it +was impossible to say! It was easy to surmise they were up to no good, +but this was of course merely conjecture, and I completely failed to +learn anything which might lead to the recovery of the large number of +sheep which were missing. Royd was to come home the next afternoon, and +I knew what a blow this would be to him, when he came to hear of his +loss. I had "Carnival" tied up that night, and sunrise saw me in the +saddle on my way to the puesto, to consult with Bent as to what we could +do further, with a view to obtaining some reliable information if +possible by the time Royd would return. When I got there Bent had heard +nothing, although he had communicated with more than one traveller +riding towards the road along which the diligence passed. We arranged +the direction in which Bent should search during the day, and I took the +opposite one, and made a long round, calling up anywhere I thought it +possible I might hear anything. By mid-day, I found myself not very far +from the pulperia at Guaycoru, so stopped there, and arranged with the +owner to send over a messenger at once to the estancia should he hear +anything which would help us. I then rode back to the puesto to consult +once more with Bent, who by this time--it was now two o'clock--had +returned from his search, without having obtained any information, +although he had questioned at least a dozen people since I left him in +the morning. It was all very trying and disappointing. There seemed +nothing for it but to return to the estancia to meet Royd when he got +home, and tell him what had happened. + +It was nearly four o'clock when I arrived, and about half an hour later +Royd turned up, having much enjoyed his little outing. He brought a +young English boy, about fifteen, with him, tall for his age, with broad +shoulders, and an upright figure. His name was Frank Tryon, but he was +generally known as "Francisco." He was an excellent rider, and fond of +horses and dogs, especially of the pretty "alazan," or chestnut pony he +was riding when he arrived, with its flowing mane and tail, of which it +was easy to see he was really very proud. + +I helped them to unsaddle, and told the cook to get some coffee ready, +as they told me they had breakfast as they came along. Royd then sat +down in an easy chair and began to smoke. "Well, Royd," I said, "I am +very glad to see you back. I have just come down from Bent's puesto. It +was attacked by thieves on Thursday night, and two-thirds of the sheep +were stolen. Bent and I have searched in every direction both yesterday +and to-day, and we can learn nothing whatever about them." "Goodness +gracious! that is indeed bad luck," replied Royd, "but I am glad poor +Bent got off all right; it must have given him a great shock. I hope his +friend was with him so that he would not be alone." I then told him all +that had happened, and also what I had heard about Mamerto Gomez and his +men having been seen entering the sierras. "It is not unlikely he may be +the real cause of it all," said Royd. "I fully expect that fellow had a +hand in it, for I believe him to be a regular scoundrel, in spite of his +suave manner and grand appearance." Certainly Royd bore his misfortune +with more fortitude than I expected, for the loss was indeed a heavy +one. The late afternoon was now drawing on, and I sent the native boy to +bring up the "tropilla," which happened to be feeding not far away, up +into the corral, so that we might collar Francisco's pony to the +tropilla mare, and we then let them all out again to feed for the night. +After dinner we talked the whole affair over before going to bed, +without, however, coming to any conclusion as to what prospect there was +of our ever again hearing of the missing sheep. Early on Monday morning, +leaving Francisco at the house, who said he would keep an eye on the +sheep, Royd and I rode over to the puesto, where Bent had nothing +whatever to report. He had managed to interview during Sunday some half +dozen horsemen who were riding along within reach of him, but could +obtain nothing in the way of information. Royd and I both took a long +turn round in opposite directions, each returning to the puesto about +three o'clock; but it was all in vain: we could learn nothing which +would help us from anybody. We again held a consultation, and Royd +determined that for the present Bent should stay on at the puesto and +have his friend with him, maintaining as strict a watch as possible over +the sheep which remained. Later, if we failed to hear anything of the +ones that had been stolen, the only thing to do would be for Bent to +come down with his sheep to the estancia, and join them on to those +which were there. As by leaving the puesto he would not only be safer +and more secure himself, but he could then look after all the sheep +remaining on the estancia by keeping them together in one flock. + +The autumn of the Southern year was now well advanced, and there was +still plenty of grass within reasonable reach of the estancia house--but +meanwhile we only thought of this plan as being one suitable for the +near future. Royd and I then rode home, having had a fairly long day. +Everything seemed quiet as we followed along the narrow track which +wound itself like a snake among the big masses of grey rock. Suddenly +Napoleon, who was with us, started off as if in pursuit of something, +and I took out my revolver and followed him up. Reaching an open space +quite hidden from the track, I came upon the remains of a young cow, the +best joints of the meat having evidently been cut up and taken away with +the hide on them, while the animal was still warm; indeed, it was plain +the cow had only been recently killed. I called to Royd who was only a +little way behind me to come and look. It certainly looked as if thieves +were not very far off, and in view of recent events it did not tend to +make either of us feel very comfortable. Probably one of the grey foxes +often to be seen as evening approached had been visiting the remains, +and Napoleon had caught scent of it, which attracted his attention. When +we got home we found Francisco quite happy, and he and I took a turn +round and brought up the riding horses, shutting them up for the night +in the stone "manga," instead of leaving them out to feed as usual. We +also saw to our guns and ammunition. All this gave us food for +reflection, and we sat up talking and smoking until quite late. + +Towards the end of the week we made up our minds to have another +gathering together of the cattle. Francisco looked forward to this with +much pleasure, as he was anxious to see how his chestnut would acquit +himself among the rocks, which were quite new to him. We tied up horses +over night, and were on the move just after dawn. It was a beautiful +morning, the sun rose in a clear sky, the herald of a fine day. I and +the native peon went together to quite the far end of the camp. Royd and +Francisco taking a position a little nearer home The cattle appeared to +be coming up well, nor did any so far as we knew succeed in breaking +back. When, however, we got them up to the rodeo and made a count, at +least two hundred and fifty animals seemed missing. The native peon and +boy with the aid of Francisco, kept them there, not allowing them to go +back to their feeding ground until twelve o'clock. Meanwhile, Royd and I +went back over the ground again to try and discover if any, and if so +how many, might have escaped us. However, we failed to find them in any +direction. That being so the only conclusion we could come to was that a +large number of the herd, certainly more than two hundred had +disappeared, and in all probability been stolen. This was by no means a +pleasant conclusion. Poor Royd was very depressed, and as we sat by the +fire that evening, turned to me and said, "If this sort of thing goes on +it will be about time for me to clear out." I tried to comfort him as +well as I could, although I did not feel at all happy in my own mind; +far from it. "Suppose we have another gathering up in a week's time, we +can see what happens then," I said. Meanwhile I will be about on +horseback as much as I can among the rocks, and I will see if I can find +a clue to the mystery. "Thank you!" replied Royd, "we will wait and see +if more of them come up to the rodeo in a week's time." But before the +day came I could see the matter was constantly weighing on his mind, nor +did I at all wonder, and I really felt very sorry for him. Next morning +we were up betimes, and all went to the corral to catch up horses for +the day. There was a very pretty "dorodilla," or bay filly in the +tropilla, with a black mane and tail, about two years old. This Royd +proposed to give as a present to Francisco, as he said it would make a +nice companion for his chestnut. This pleased him greatly, and he soon +began to talk of catching it up and leading it about with a halter and +rein if only it was sufficiently tame to allow this to be done. The +following days I spent among the sierras, and I could not disguise from +myself that the various groups of cattle when I saw them feeding, and I +recollected what they used to look like seemed certainly smaller; +indeed, several animals I knew and therefore quite expected to see I +never managed to see at all. All seemed quiet, however, nor did they +show any evidence of having been recently disturbed. I was riding home +on Friday evening later than usual for it was close upon sunset, when I +thought I heard voices. I immediately stopped and listened carefully. A +light breeze rustling from where the sound came seemed to bring it +nearer, and I judged it could not be more than one hundred and fifty +yards distant. There happened to be an open space close to where I was, +some twenty paces long by ten wide. It had a narrow entrance, and was +quite surrounded and shut in by the high rocks. I knew well where it +was, having been there before. So I dismounted and led my horse through +this narrow entrance into the open space, where he was completely hidden +from view, and hobbled him and tied him up. I then came out, and +carefully concealing myself, stole along on foot in the direction from +which I had heard the voices. I easily obtained sufficient cover, and +had not advanced at all far when I saw four men, all armed, about sixty +paces from me. One of them was Mamerto Gomez, the man I had seen at the +pulperia; I recognised him at once, and he seemed to be directing the +others, as if they were arranging some plan or other. I listened +attentively, hoping I might perhaps hear some mention of the stolen +sheep, but what with the subdued tone in which they conversed and the +fact that I did not know much Spanish, I failed to make out what they +were saying. Their horses stood saddled near them, and I noticed they +wore the red device round their black felt hats. I remained perfectly +still for quite ten minutes, well sheltered from their view by a large +piece of rock, where I could see but could not be seen. At the end of +that time they suddenly mounted their horses and rode away in the +opposite direction to where I was hid, and I must allow I did not feel +very sorry to see them depart. I then went back to my horse, and at once +rode home. Royd also had just returned, and was unsaddling near the +front door. He had been round to ask three or four of our neighbours to +help us to gather up our cattle on the Monday morning following. He +thought, perhaps, if we had more horsemen we might make a more +successful "para rodeo" than we had done before. + +I told him my little adventure, and what I had seen, and he shook his +head. "That fellow Mamerto is at the bottom of all this trouble, I do +believe," he said, "and I do wish you had been able to hear distinctly +what those thieves were planning and talking about." + +Only the first sign of dawn was appearing on Monday morning when we +saddled up our horses and rode silently in among the grey rocks. +Francisco did not go with us, but he joined us later at the rodeo. I had +the furthest to go, quite to the end of the estancia, near Guaycoru. +Bent came from his side, and four of our neighbours each fell into line +at the place appointed. So this time we mustered a fairly strong force, +and none of the cattle had any chance of breaking back. But by the time +we had got them outside the sierras, and even before I could see them +gathered together at close quarters, I felt sure in my own mind that +quite a third of the herd was missing. Thanks to our neighbours' +assistance we were able to make a correct count, and this we did twice +over, so as to be sure we were correct. There were only four hundred and +sixty-five animals, not counting a dozen very small calves, whereas +there ought to have been over seven hundred at least. Anyway, making +every possible allowance, there were certainly more than two hundred +missing; not far different from what we had made them out to be ten days +ago. There was no accounting in any way where the missing animals could +be, so we had to accept the inevitable and conclude they must have been +driven off, probably during the night, and stolen. They seemed just to +have vanished in the same way as did the sheep. One misfortune so +quickly following the other caused Royd to feel his loss very acutely, +and it naturally made him despondent and down-hearted. I tried my best +to cheer him up, but with little success. One day we succeeded in +running the troop of mares and colts up into the stone enclosure. They +were swift of foot, knew every turn and twist of the rocks, and so long +as they kept inside the sierras it was difficult for anyone to get hold +of them. When once in the corral it was a different matter. A chestnut +colt, with a white star on his forehead, smaller and younger than +"Carnival" was easily lassoed, and afterwards tied up to a post, from +which to no purpose he made strenuous efforts to get loose. He had to +remain where he was during the night, and next morning we collared him +to a tame mare, so that he could easily be got hold of when wanted. A +couple of mornings later, when the riding horses were brought up to the +corral, Francisco's bay filly was missing, and, after a long search, was +found, minus its skin, which was but of small value. Why it had been +killed was a mystery, until some time afterwards it became known that a +near neighbour was making a set of horse-gear of raw cowhide and mares +hide; and as this set was a very particular one it required all the hide +to be of the same colour. So the maker, having run out of mare's hide, +searched round in the neighbourhood until he found an animal to suit +him, which happened to be Francisco's filly. The latter was greatly +distressed by his potrilla coming to so premature an end, but there it +lay dead, so there was nothing more to be done. This shews the small +amount of respect there was for property in those days in the country +districts of the Republic. Immediately following this little event, +Colonel Pinto Mallada who held an important position in the Department, +arrived with two hundred and fifty soldiers and encamped near the +estancia for a couple of days. He sent his adjutant up to say he would +require a supply of meat for his men to eat, but that orders had been +given them not to take any horses. Consequently, those we wanted to save +were brought up to feed within easy distance of the house, as Mallada's +orders were generally obeyed. + +Francisco happened to be left alone at the estancia with Pedro the cook, +and when he went out to see if the horses were all right, he noticed +that his chestnut pony was missing. So he went down on an old brown +horse he was riding to the Colonel's tent, situate under a tree, but he +was not allowed to see him, as he was taking his "siesta." However, his +sergeant, whom he interviewed, said he was to come later. The Colonel, +who was a stern half Indian, was much feared; he spoke little, and had +but little mercy for his enemies. So Francisco returned to the house and +went down again to see him later on. He found him sitting sucking +"mate," while the sergeant stood beside him combing carefully for him +his long hair, which hung down almost to his shoulders. Francisco told +the Colonel his pony had gone, whereupon the latter directed his +sergeant to take him round the encampment, as the soldiers were +scattered in different places in lots of eight or ten together. No pony +could be found, so Francisco and the sergeant returned to see the +Colonel, who then said if the pony was not in the encampment some men he +had sent away must have taken it, but that Francisco need not fear, as +he should have his pony back again. + +Thereupon Francisco once again returned to the house very sorry not to +have found his pony--but still hoping for the best. Sure enough in three +days a soldier rode up with the chestnut pony, apparently none the worse +for his enforced absence. + +This shews the Colonel had a certain kind of feeling about him, although +at the same time he had little regard for the lives of those who +happened to oppose his wishes. I believe in the end, a long time +afterwards, he was shot in Rosario, during some political trouble. Early +in the next week I rode over to what was known as the "Swiss Colony," +some fourteen miles distant from us in more or less a Southerly +direction. There was a pulperia there where the diligence which came out +from Monte Video stopped, and often brought us letters--which usually +came to hand sooner or later, as opportunity offered. However, just now +Royd was expecting some, and as a few small purchases were also required +I saddled up poor Henriquez's chestnut, and taking a pair of saddle-bags +with me, made a start. He was a good little horse, the morning was +bright and fine, and I enjoyed my ride as I galloped along over the +rolling country in front of me. I just pulled up at Saballa's pulperia +as I passed to hear if there was any news. But everything was quiet, and +no soldiers seemed to be about. Just about a mile distant from the pass +over the river Rosario, leading to the Swiss Colony, I overtook Mr. +Frederick Dampier, owner of the Estancia del Pichinango. He also was on +his way to Quincke's pulperia, so we rode on together. He asked me a +good deal about Royd, and how he was getting on, etc, and he looked very +serious when I related to him all that had happened. "I doubt if you +will ever see either those sheep or cattle again," he said. "I expect +there is a regular gang of thieves located inside the sierras, with +Mamerto Gomez as their leader." + +"I hope they won't take it into their heads to come our way; it would +not be the first time such a thing has happened; although, fortunately, +there is no secure hiding place for them in the day-time here, like +there is inside the sierras." + +When we got to the pulperia I found three letters, two for Royd and one +for me. I soon completed my small purchases, and half an hour later was +ready to start on my return journey. Mr. Dampier was also returning by +the same way we had come, so we rode on together. When we had got +through the pass, he turned to me and said, "I wonder if you would care +to go and take charge up at the Cerro. It is where my partner lived +before he returned to England, a little more than a year ago. You might +find yourself fairly comfortable there; anyway, you would have plenty of +room, and you could assist me in the management of the estancia." This +proposal certainly took me somewhat by surprise, for I had only been +about nine months in the country, but I thanked him, and said I would +see what Royd thought about it when I got back, and let him know without +unnecessary delay. We then parted company, just about in the same place +where we had met in the morning. The chestnut was going well, the sun, +now past the meridian, was shining brightly, the air was fresh and cool, +and my ride was a pleasant one. I thought a good deal as I rode along +about what Mr. Dampier had said to me, and the more I thought of it the +better I liked the idea of what he had proposed. The only difficulty was +that if Royd was going to have continued trouble at the rocks, I did not +wish to leave him, as it were, in the lurch. + +Now that the war had definitely broken out, it seemed to me that if I +went to the "Cerro," it would certainly be an experience, and there +would probably prove to be a fair amount of excitement as well. It was +just after two o'clock when I reached the estancia. Royd had ridden out, +and did not return until towards sunset. I unsaddled the chestnut and +let him go. He at once trotted off to find his friends and enjoy a quiet +feed. He knew they would not be very far away. Meanwhile Pedro got me +some food and coffee, and I sat down and read my letter, which had come +from England, over again, and smoked a quiet pipe. When Royd returned I +handed him his letters and showed him my purchases, which he found +satisfactory. He had been out among the sierras, and had taken a turn +round to see a native neighbour, where doubtless he had discussed the +situation, and why so many cattle were missing when we got them up to +the rodeo. Perhaps his native friend had given him comfort, for he +seemed in better spirits than usual. I said nothing to him until we had +finished dinner and were sitting smoking by the fire in the dining room; +for winter was coming on, and the evenings began to be chilly. Then I +told him how I had met Mr. Dampier, and what he had said to me. He +looked up rather amused. "I think if I were you I should go," he said. +"Mr. Dampier is an exceedingly nice man, and I feel sure you will get on +very well with him; and you will be sure to gain a lot of experience at +a large estancia like the Pichinango." "But what about the trouble in +the rocks," I replied. "I should not like to leave you without seeing +you through; that is if I can be of any help to you." "Well," said Royd, +"I have been thinking things over this afternoon. I can bring Bent and +the remaining sheep down, and join them on to the flock we already have +here. He can then look after them all together. Curiously enough, one of +the letters you brought me is from my friends, with whom I stayed the +other day, who have their estancia on this side of San Jose. They +propose, if things get worse over here, I should take what cattle and +sheep I may have to their camp, and join up with them. They have more +land, you know, than they really want, and it could carry comfortably +more stock than I am likely to have remaining here. At any rate, the +idea seems worth considering, for if this war continues, it might +perhaps turn out to be the best thing to do." "Well," I said, "we will +sleep over it all, and then if you are still in the same mind I will see +about accepting Mr. Dampier's offer." Next morning, we had just finished +our coffee and were walking down to the corral to catch our horses as +usual. "Well, Royd, what do you think about it this morning?" I said. +"Are you still of the same opinion about my going to the 'Cerro'?" "Yes, +I am," he said. "I think it would be a great pity for you to refuse the +offer. I have got some letters to write, and as the diligence will be +passing Quincke's in a couple of days on its way back to San Jose, I +will send the native peon over with them early to-morrow morning. I will +finish the letters first, and then you and I can ride over to the puesto +and see Bent." + +"That being so," I replied, "I think I cannot do better than write a +letter to Mr. Dampier, accepting his proposal, and tell him I will go +over to the 'Cerro' on Wednesday in next week. The peon could leave my +letter at Mr. Dampier's house as he passes by." + +"So be it," said Royd, "and I sincerely wish you all luck and prosperity +in the new departure." So I wrote my letter while I was waiting for +Royd, thanking Mr. Dampier for what he had said to me, accepting his +offer, and saying I would go over to the "Cerro" on Wednesday morning in +the following week. All appeared quiet as Royd and I rode among the +rocks to the puesto. Here and there we passed a few cattle, a silver fox +we disturbed ran in front of us for a hundred yards or so, and then +dodged round the corner of a rock, where he probably had his lair. We +noticed the smell of a skunk a little further along. He, too, had been +out and about for his morning exercise. Silence reigned everywhere, +broken only by the shrill cry of the "pteru-pteru," or plover, a cry we +were so accustomed to hear that we hardly noticed it. When we arrived we +found Bent all right, having just come to his house to see about some +breakfast. The sheep were quietly feeding a little distance away. There +was no news. He had heard nothing; nor had he seen anyone just lately. +His friend had gone away for a few hours to see a native he knew up +towards Guaycoru. + +Royd told Bent he thought he had better come down with the sheep to the +estancia, leaving the puesto for the time being unoccupied. This seemed +to please him rather than otherwise, and it was settled he should come +down with his belongings on the following Monday, and Royd promised to +send up the native peon to help him to drive the sheep. Anything he had +to leave behind could remain in the house, which he could lock up, +bringing the key away with him, and whatever there was could be sent for +later. I also told Bent about Mr. Dampier's offer to me, at which he +seemed somewhat amused, although his good manners prevented him saying +all that was perhaps passing through his mind. Royd and I then rode +round by the pulperia at Guaycoru to see if by chance we could hear +anything which might afford us a clue as to what had become of our +missing cattle; or indeed, of the stolen sheep. Early next morning the +native peon rode off with Royd's letters for the Swiss Colony, and I +gave him mine to deliver at Mr. Dampier's house as he passed. On the +Monday following he and Francisco made an early start to go and help to +bring down the sheep from the puesto. The latter rode his chestnut pony +and hoped to enjoy the ride. + +The sheep travelled down well. Bent brought his two horses with him, +riding one and leading the other as a pack-horse with his things. "Bob," +of course, followed, greatly interested, behind the sheep; indeed, he +seemed to enjoy the excitement of making the move. "Napoleon" gave him +an affectionate welcome, for they had always been friends. On the +Tuesday I put together my things. Royd kindly said he would send the +native peon with me, who could lead the extra horse which was to carry +them, and then bring him back afterwards. Anything I could not take was +put into a big box, which was to be sent to Saballa's pulperia by the +first cart which might pass, whence I could easily get it brought on to +the "Cerro." I took my Colts revolver and all my cartridges with me, +also my "Service" rifle, which I had given to me just as I was leaving +England, and I found I could pack all I was likely to need for the +present quite easily in two large bundles, which could be fixed on +either side of the "recado," on the led horse. The peon took a large +pair of saddle-bags for me on the horse he rode, and I had a smaller +pair on mine. Wednesday morning, June 15th, proved fine, the sun shining +in a clear sky. So I bid adieu to Royd and Bent and Francisco, and with +many good wishes from them all, mounted "Carnival," accompanied by +Napoleon, and duly followed the native peon who, with the pack-horse +behind him, had already made a start. And so I bid adieu not without +regret to "Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo," for I had been very happy there, +and as I passed along my way it seemed to me, at any rate for the time +being, a step into the great unknown. When we arrived at the "Cerro del +Pichinango" I was received by an Englishman called Robinson, who acted +as cook and general caretaker inside the house. He soon got me some food +and coffee ready, and he also found something to eat for the man who had +come with me. There were three peones, or out-door servants about; an +uncle, and two of his nephews. They were natives of Uruguay, but by +parentage were Indians of the Pampas, which also showed very clearly in +their countenances. I wrote a message to Royd on a piece of paper, which +I gave to the peon for him, just to say I had arrived all right. +Meantime I had unsaddled "Carnival," and tied him up in a grass-covered +court or enclosure, surrounded by a high stone wall, where there were +also several trees and two large iron gates at the bottom, which were +usually kept locked. The house itself certainly looked imposing. It was +built the whole width of the upper end of the court, and was divided +into two parts by a high stone archway, the front of which stood level +with the court, while the back led direct into the large "galpon," or +wool-shed, which was joined to the house its full length behind, with +two large openings on its outer side, closed by wide wooden doors, both +ends being quite shut in. The house had nine rooms, large and small; +four on one side of the open archway, which was shut off from the galpon +by a door in the centre, and five on the other. Each had a large window +overlooking the court, protected outside by thick iron bars. First came +the kitchen, with a door leading direct into the open, and a bedroom +above, for the cook; then, the dining room, with two large windows +opening on the court; next, a small room, with a little iron stove +called the gun-room, and next again a bedroom; each having a window +looking on the court. This bedroom had also a door opening into the +stone archway. On the other side of this were five rooms, all leading +one into another; but the fourth had a door opening on the court; while +the fifth room was called the visitors' room, and had a large high +window in the middle of the end of the house, which gave abundance of +light, although it, too, was heavily barred. This room was comfortably +furnished, while from the others on this side of the archway the +furniture had been mostly removed, one of them being at this time used +as a storeroom. + +The whole house was an "azotea," having one long flat roof throughout, +all round which was a low battlemented parapet with open spaces, between +where you could place firearms for self-defence in the event of a siege +or an attack from outside. Out of the dining room was an inside passage +and ladder leading to the roof, which was removable, having a small +shelter or covering built over it at the top. The roof itself was +carefully tiled and cemented, collecting all the rain-water which fell +upon it, and carrying it through pipes into the large Alhibi, or +reservoir, carefully tiled, which stood in the middle of the court. Here +the water remained quite cool in summer, an ample supply being collected +during the rainy weather, sufficient to last the whole year. + +There were no wells or springs, for the house stood high on an eminence +overlooking the surrounding country, the ground all round being of a +rocky nature, the surface soil in places having scarcely any depth at +all; indeed, nowhere near the house was it at all suitable for either +crops or cultivation. + +During the afternoon I had one of the tropillas of horses brought up +into the corral, and we collared "Carnival" to a nice little grey mare, +so that he could go out to feed with the other horses. But he could not +escape back again to the rocks, as he certainly would have done had he +been left loose. The mare, however, seemed very considerate and good to +him, and he afterwards became quite fond of her. Napoleon, too, seemed +to settle down easily into his new surroundings, and it was not long +before he obtained control over the three or four mongrels who barked at +him on his arrival. I took a little walk round the establishment during +the afternoon, and had a look over a small flock of "southdowns" which +fed near the house, and were shut up into their sheep yard at night, +surrounded by a stone wall. They were now feeding with their faces +towards home, and were generally looked after by one of the Indian boys. + +As I walked along through the long grass, a brace of partridges got up +close to me, and flew away straight in front of me. Had I taken a gun +with me they would have been an easy shot. Behind the "Cerro" the +country seemed to roll away into distance, like the waves of the sea, so +characteristic of the Pampas of South America. + +As I returned I climbed up to the top of the group of rocks just behind +the house itself, enclosed by a stone wall not by any means in good +condition. From there the country on one side appeared rocky and broken, +with a valley running down at right angles, where apparently stone had +been got out of a kind of quarry, near which I could see two or three +stone erections, which might be either huts or temporary shelters. Far +in the distance were woods which seemed to border a river. This I found +to be the river Pichinango, which was the boundary of the estate on that +side. + +I had some dinner at sundown, and then enjoyed a quiet pipe, and thought +over the events of the day. Later, I fixed up my things in the bedroom +joining the archway, in the corner of which latter I placed an old +wool-bag I found lying about, for Napoleon to sleep on, and I too went +to bed, asking the cook to be sure and call me in good time in the +morning. I slept soundly, and the air felt fresh and keen when I went +out into the courtyard not long after sunrise, where I was +affectionately greeted by Napoleon, who seemed very pleased to see me +again. The Indians were already sitting round their fire in the galpon, +sucking Mate, and Robinson was busy in his kitchen, preparing the early +coffee. The first thing I did was to have the horses belonging to the +"Cerro" brought up into the corral, so that I might look them over. They +were a mixed lot, some seventy in all, and varied greatly in colour and +appearance. But this was only to be expected, and there were some useful +horses among them. + +A little before eleven, Don Frederico Dampier rode up from his house, +"La Concordia," situate at the other end of the estancia. I saw him +coming so went out a little way to meet him. His well-knit but spare +figure looked remarkably well on horseback. We first took a turn +outside, and Don Frederico pointed out certain things which needed +attention. We then went inside, and he gave me the keys of two large +cupboards which contained linen and household necessaries. He also gave +me a book called the "log-book," in which I was to write down anything +which happened, and also the work which was done each day, as it passed. +By this time, Robinson had got ready some breakfast for us, after which +we mounted our horses and rode round a troop of cattle called the +"tamberos," or tame animals; supposed to come up to their "rodeo" every +day before sundown. However, as a matter of fact, they were quite as +wild as the larger herd, and it was some little time before I got them +well under control. We then went on to two of the puestos, each in +charge of a puestero, or shepherd, who looked after his flock of +something under three thousand sheep. The first puesto we came to was in +charge of a "basco" named Laborde, who had emigrated, while yet young, +to Uruguay, from the Spanish shores of the Bay of Biscay. He was a +fresh-coloured, good-tempered looking man, still in middle life, and he +seemed cheerful and comfortable with his wife and three children round +him. He gave us many particulars about his flock; how they were getting +on, etc. He had been with them most of the morning; had just ridden home +to get something to eat, and was going out to give them a turn towards +home a little later on. He said he had not been troubled by soldiers, +although he had noticed small detachments passing towards the Sierras, +but they had not come near either the flock or his puesto. We then rode +on to the second, kept also by a basco, called Martin, the number of +sheep being more or less the same as the one previously visited. Martin +was a fine, robust, good-looking man, in the prime of life; very alert +and intelligent, and apparently well-versed in the ways of estancia +life. We passed alongside his flock as they were quietly feeding; and we +looked over three large points of cattle, and also some mares and colts +as I accompanied Don Frederico a little further on his way home. + +I then bid him farewell and rode back direct to the Cerro, and with one +of the Indians got the tamberos, before-mentioned, up to their rodeo in +the afternoon, keeping them there about three-quarters of an hour as a +matter of discipline, and then as the sun fell towards the horizon on +the late autumn afternoon the little flock of Southdown sheep drew +towards home, to be shut in their sheepyard for the night. So I took the +opportunity of looking them carefully over, and making a correct count +of them; they were just over three hundred, so that I might the more +easily become aware, if by ill-luck any should be missing. + +The old cook, Robinson, had gone through some exciting experiences in +his earlier life. When little more than a boy he sailed for the +Southern seas in one of "Green's" whaling ships, fitted out for a three +years' cruise beyond Cape Horn, in pursuit of the sperm whale. This was +then a very profitable occupation. From captain to cabin-boy, everyone +had a share in the results of the voyage, and when the good ship +returned, fully loaded with her valuable cargo of sperm oil, she had a +great welcome from her owner, who often went down to greet her arrival +in Plymouth Sound. Eventually he rose to be a first-class hand aboard; +indeed, it was his office to throw the harpoon, as he stood upright in +the bow of the boat, into the whale, an act requiring not only courage, +but also great judgment and skill. It was only upon rare occasions that +the old man could be induced to talk of his sea-faring days. A kind of +gloom always seemed to lie behind them all, and it was but by a mere +chance that I happened later to find out what it meant. Like so many of +the sea-faring class with him drink was the trouble, and after a bout of +it he would sometimes fall into a kind of delirium, talking incessantly +to himself, yet hardly aware of what he was saying. It seems he had been +wrecked on the northern coast of New Zealand in the days of long ago, +and there he had lived with a Maori tribe, and had wedded a Maori +spouse. Then came a war with a neighbouring tribe, who proved +victorious, and he saw his wife tomahawked before his eyes, while he +himself was unable to render her any assistance. + +Following this, he fled into the bush, where he subsisted on fern-root, +and anything else he could obtain, until by great good fortune he +managed to signal and attract the attention of a passing vessel, who +lowered a boat and took him off. + +He then worked his way back to England, and afterwards went out to the +Falkland Islands Company, at Port Stanley. + +Finally, he came over to Uruguay, drifted to the "Cerro del Pichinango" +during the war of "Oribe," where he had remained ever since. So long as +all went well, he was attentive to duty inside the house; clean and tidy +in preparing the meals; indeed, never happier than when fully employed +with his scrubbing brush and an ample supply of soap and water. One of +his great pleasures was to hoist the Union Jack on the small standard on +the top of the azotea on feast-days and holidays, when he would again +lower it at sunset, the same as he would have done on board ship. His +failing compelled me to keep all Canya, or white rum, under lock and key, +although I was instructed to deal him out his daily allowance twice +during the day; when the sun got over the fore-yard, as he was wont to +express it, and at sundown. Outside he chiefly employed himself in +chopping and splitting up wood for the stove in the kitchen, with his +two axes, of which he took great care, and of which he was apparently +very proud. + +We happened to have a spell of fine weather during the first few days +after I arrived at the "Cerro," so I was enabled to see things generally +better than I could otherwise have done. + + + + +PART II. + +EL CERRO DEL PICHINANGO. + + +The Cerro del Pichinango comprised something over sixteen thousand +acres, on which fed twenty thousand sheep, two thousand head of cattle, +and three hundred and fifty horses. The sheep were divided into seven +flocks, not counting a small flock of Southdowns at the Cerro. Each +flock had its own area of camp, over which to feed, and was located at +its own "puesto," where its "puestero," or shepherd, lived and looked +after it. The cattle grazed at will all over the estate, which was quite +open, without fences of any kind, here and there, in large groups, and +often in small points of twenty or thirty animals. There was good +pasturage, and abundant water. The river Rosario, which bordered the +estate on the West, did not run in a straight line, but curved in its +course, while at the South-West corner it took a much larger curve, +forming almost a semi-circle, and here the woods were wider than +hitherto. All this gave the scenery quite a park-like aspect, which was +very attractive. On the Southern side the river Pichinango did the same, +the woods which bordered its banks being even more beautiful, hung with +creepers and flowering plants, the river winding peacefully in between. +Here, too, fish could be caught, and the carpincho, or water-pig, was +able to enjoy himself undisturbed to his heart's content. Moreover, a +considerable stream called the Canyada Grande, passed right through the +centre of the estate, running for the most part clean and pure over a +stony and rocky bed. La Concordia, where Mr. Dampier lived with his +family, was situate at the opposite end of the estancia to the Cerro. +The house stood on elevated ground overlooking the river Rosario, and +its woods on the west, while towards the south it commanded a distant +view of the Swiss Colony, with its red-roofed houses and patches of +arable land between. On the right were the wide and beautiful woods +which bordered the banks of the river Pichinango, where it joined the +Rosario, at which juncture of the two rivers a broad rincon, or corner, +was in itself quite a feature of the landscape. To the left the +grass-covered plain, with here and there a large bed of tall thistles, +rolled away for some four miles to the northern boundary of the +estancia. The house was modern and comfortable: built on three sides of +an open "patio," or court, which you entered through iron gates, and the +drawing room spacious and airy, with its three large windows coming down +to the ground, occupied the whole length of the house at the back. On +the left and in front was the flower garden, divided by a carriage +drive, which led out past a lodge to the open camp. The "peones'," or +servants' quarters lay to the right, forming a square, in the centre of +which was a large "euremada," or shed, with four open sides, used for +tying up horses under and for the "peones" to seek shelter from the sun +during the "siesta." + +Further away was the "corral," or yard, in which to shut up horses, and +beyond again were the sheepyards. There was also a considerable area of +cultivated land, where maize, and potatoes, and "alfalfa," a species of +clover, flourished, as did a large quantity of fruit trees, planted all +round an open space, used for the production of vegetables. Winter had +now come, and the weather had become stormy, with cold nights and cold +winds from the South. + +I was out in the camp pretty continually, nevertheless, visiting the +various puestos, and turning inwards the cattle, especially on our +northern boundary. When fine enough I had the Indians at work mending up +the walls of the sheepyards, which were made of loose stones piled one +upon another. These had been greatly neglected at the "Cerro" and needed +building up and repairing, as many gaps were to be seen. Three of the +gates, too, required attention. After a week, however, the weather +improved, so a "para rodeo" of the cattle was arranged for the next day +but one, which was a Saturday. We had our horses tied up the night +before, and were all ready for a start just before sunrise, Don +Frederico and his party coming up from La Concordia just about the same +time. The rodeo, or meeting-place for the cattle, was situate in a +direct line between the Cerro and La Concordia, about half a mile +distant from the former. It had the usual big post planted in the +centre, round which the cattle revolved, and the ground all round was +quite bare of herbage, evidently well trodden by numerous animals. We +had help from three of the puesteros, especially from one named +Marmasola, who not only came himself, but brought three boys with him, +all well mounted. Laborde and Martin arrived from their own side, +accompanied by two or three dogs. I was riding "Carnival," who had now +settled down at the "Cerro," having attached himself to the little grey +mare with one eye, to which he had been collared on his first arrival. +"Napoleon" was in great spirits, paying no attention whatever to the +couple of mongrel terriers who followed behind him. He was quite aware +that serious business was on foot. I got over with the Indians to the +north-western corner of the estancia, and we spread ourselves out, +driving the cattle before us. Some of them seemed inclined to break +back. This was easily prevented, and I found it much easier to do this +here, where it was all open camp, than it had been at the Sierras de Mal +Abrigo, when hindered and surrounded by large masses of rock. Don +Frederico came up from his side with a good deal of help; so altogether +we made a very satisfactory "para rodeo." I had no experience of dealing +with cattle in such large numbers, nor was I surprised to find that care +was needed to keep them all together on the "rodeo," when we got them +there. I felt pretty sure, however, that by bringing them up constantly, +and always keeping them up some time when collected, we should soon get +the herd under complete control. Don Frederico brought with him a Mr. +John Jennings, who was living with him at La Concordia. He was a good +Spanish scholar, and an excellent accountant, fond of gardening, and was +much occupied at the time with the cultivated land there, to which I +have before alluded. His figure was decidedly burly; he had a +good-natured face and thin legs. He did not look well on horseback, as +he appeared too heavy above the saddle, nor was he really much of a +rider. Upon this occasion he bestrode a very dark grey, somewhat low in +condition, and not apparently up to his weight. They both came up to the +Cerro for breakfast: some mutton stewed with rice, hot coffee and camp +biscuits; all very acceptable after the morning's gallop. I let go +"Carnival," and had a little bay horse, with a white blaze and two white +stockings caught up, and when they returned I rode with them as far as +La Concordia. Here I stopped for awhile, and then rode over into the +Swiss Colony to arrange some business which had to be attended to; nor +did I get back to the "Cerro" until about an hour before sunset. + +Curiously enough, since my first arrival, but little seemed to have +happened in regard to the war. Every now and again a party of Blanco +soldiers would ride up, have some food, and go on their way. They did +not take our horses, for these were as yet plentiful, and probably they +had better ones of their own. The Colorados had not come our way at all, +being mostly concentrated near Monte Video, the capital, while a fairly +large force were also encamped in the province of San Jose. Meanwhile +the Blanco army was said to be in great strength out beyond Paysandu, +waiting for finer weather, and until the horses should pick up after the +somewhat early winter. Spring, when it came, advanced rapidly. The days +soon seemed longer and the weather warmer. We had a good deal of +sheep-working on hand, as the flocks came up from the "puestos" to the +Cerro, to be passed through the sheepyards, when it was our custom to +get through one flock in a day. Don Frederico generally rode up to see +how the work progressed, bringing two or three "peones" from La +Concordia, as this winter there was a certain amount of foot-rot among +the sheep, which needed attention. Fortunately, however, this was never +really bad at the Pichinango, as a great part of the camp lay high, and +therefore dry, covered with a hard kind of grass, which grew profusely +between the longer tussock-grass. The flocks near La Concordia, however, +fed on lower ground, but they were passed through the sheepyards there, +when I went down from the Cerro, taking two of the Indians with me to +assist. And so the days passed on one much like another, until the sun +began to shine longer, and the weather to get warmer when at length we +began to realise that summer was not far off. Some four weeks passed +without anything particular happening, and then came the branding of the +calves, always an event of supreme importance on a large South American +estancia. First there was a general "para rodeo" of the cattle, and then +they had to be shut up in the large stone enclosure, or "manga." Our +native neighbours had to be advised beforehand of the appointed day, so +that they might be present to see if any of their animals were by chance +mixed up with our herd. I also obtained the services of three or four +natives in the neighbourhood, known to be good camp men, _i.e._, skilled +in the management of cattle, and especially so at this particular work. +When the appointed day came round, it proved fine and fortunately there +was but little wind. We all made an early start from both ends of the +estancia, and were well on our way when the sun rose in a blue sky. +Having plenty of horsemen, the cattle came up particularly well to the +rodeo, where we kept them revolving round for quite half an hour, and +then by driving a point of tame cattle in front of them, we managed to +get the entire herd inside the "manga" without much difficulty. They did +not quite like the operation; odd animals would try to break away, but +they were quickly brought back, and they looked to me a very large +number, when once inside the stone enclosure; far larger than I had ever +seen shut up together before. Meanwhile two big fires had been lighted +to heat the brands, and all being ready, two natives entered the "manga" +on horseback with their lassoes, and one by one caught and easily +brought out the calves. And so the work progressed, until quite a large +number of calves had already been marked. Then came the time for +breakfast. A young cow was lassoed and killed, its hide quickly taken +off, and the meat cut up into large joints, and placed before the fires +to roast. Biscuits were handed out, also farinha, a kind of +coarsely-ground flour, grown from a plant in Brazil. The neighbours +appeared, each mounted on his best horse, with such silver on their +reins and headstalls, bits, stirrups, or "recados," as they happened to +possess. They mostly wore a gay-coloured summer "poncho," a +broad-brimmed felt hat, black bombachos, or very loose trousers, tucked +into long boots, often ornamented with heavy silver spurs, so that the +whole scene looked quite picturesque. After breakfast there was a short +pause, and then the work went on, and it was between three and four +o'clock in the afternoon before all the calves were branded. The herd +was now let go, and quickly dispersed, doubtless, very glad to be once +more free--now that their knocking about was at length over. And then as +evening drew on young women made their appearance, riding up on +horseback, dressed in their best clothes, and a couple of musicians +turned up anxious to have a meal and to earn a few coppers. Music was +heard on every side, and it was not long before a dance on quite a large +scale was in progress, and apparently greatly enjoyed. Meanwhile the +moon rose and shed its silver light upon the scene. The evening was fine +and warm, and it was after eight o'clock before the company dispersed. I +watched the scene from the flat roof of the Cerro with much interest and +amusement, for it was all quite new to me. However, before half-past +nine o'clock all was quiet, the Indians in the galpon had already gone +to sleep. I heard old Robinson snoring loudly in his room above the +kitchen, so I locked up the doors and retired to my bedroom with the +feeling that all had gone off well; indeed, to me it seemed to have been +nothing less than quite an exciting and altogether satisfactory day. + +Early in November shearing began, which, on an estancia, is the big +business of the year. It took place at the Cerro in the large "galpon," +and suddenly, as it were, the old place began to assume an air of +importance and activity. Old Robinson, who managed the wooden wool-press +during shearing, and for the time being abandoned the culinary art, +started to get all ready, another cook taking his place. Mr. John +Jennings, usually known as Don Juan, came up to take charge inside the +woolshed, being a man of knowledge and experience, while I superintended +the work outside, such as getting up the sheep so that there were always +sufficient ready waiting to keep the shearers going. The afternoon +before shearing was to begin a gang of fifteen shearers arrived on +horseback. They were rather a rough-looking lot, indifferently mounted. +I had half a dozen of their horses collared, and the others, which were +poor, and in bad condition, were turned out to feed with them. These +shearers were supplemented by other natives in our neighbourhood, and by +those of our own people who knew how to shear, so that quite a good +number were ready to commence the important work. A number of sheep were +brought into the yards, and passed up into the small pens, which ran +along outside the galpon, facing the two wide wooden doors. Two men were +ready, waiting to catch the sheep: tie their legs and lay them on the +floor, ready for the shearers. To each shearer, as he finished his sheep +a little tin token called a "lata" was given, these being counted, and +entered up in a book in his name at the end of the day and week. Most of +the payment in money being made at the end of the time. As the wool was +shorn it was gathered up and carried to two large wooden tables, where +it was roughly classified according to quality. It was then put into +long bags, made of a thin open canvas material, which were pressed in +the wooden wool-press before being packed into the carts, which carried +them away. The shearers had all to be fed with their proper allowance of +rations, a matter requiring care and attention, and sheep had to be +slaughtered each morning, and every now and again a fat cow, as they +managed to consume quite a large amount of meat. Don Juan was very +good-natured and pleasant to do with. He thoroughly understood how the +work should be carried on, and how best to control shearers, and as I +was glad to assist him in my spare time, I was able to gain a good deal +of useful experience which might not otherwise have come my way. +Shearing could only go on during fine weather; after rain the sheep had +to get quite dry again before they could be shorn. When this happened, +as also in the evenings, Don Juan would instruct me in book-keeping, and +in writing Spanish, both of which I was well aware would be of value to +me as time went on. Day succeeded day, and fortunately during the second +half of November we had an exceptionally fine spell of weather, without +it being unduly hot. So the shearing of the sheep made good progress. +Don Frederico Dampier, who rode up from La Concordia nearly every day, +seemed very pleased to see how things were going; indeed, the second +week of December found us finishing up the last of the sheep. One +afternoon Charles Bent came over from the Sierras for a short visit, +which was a great pleasure, as I was able to hear how Royd was getting +on, and how things were going over there, and if many soldiers were +about. He appeared mounted on his best horse, a good-looking light +brown, with a white star on his forehead, and a white stocking on the +off hind leg, also a few white hairs at the root of his tail, apparently +in the pink of condition. He told us that Royd had now removed all his +remaining stock to his friend's estancia near San Jose, where he seemed +to have settled down, and to be quite happy. Nothing now was left at the +Sierras, and the place was to be handed back to its owner very shortly. +Bent said he himself intended to go back to his relatives, up towards +the Rio Negro, so we persuaded him to prolong his visit to the Cerro +before doing so. He lent a hand inside the galpon, gave out latas to +the shearers, and saw to various little matters needing attention, so +both Jennings and I were very glad to have him with us during the last +days of the shearing. When it ended it was a not unusual custom for the +day following to be kept as a general holiday before the company finally +dispersed, and the shearers took their departure. Don Juan, who was +quite _au fait_ at this kind of thing, thereupon arranged that on this +day there should be a grand race, in which Bent proposed to ride his own +horse, and a native, who had a "rosillo," or roan, he fancied very much, +whom the natives generally thought a lot of, offered to ride his horse +against him. The course arranged, was to be from the Canyada Grande, +opposite Laborde's puesto, up to the Cerro, which was about a mile and a +quarter, more or less. Both riders accordingly paid much attention to +their steeds, giving them a daily ration of maize, and morning and +evening exercise. Of course, there was a good deal of betting amongst +the people in the galpon, for the South American Spaniard is a real +gambler at heart, and the race was a much more exciting affair than the +games of cards and dice throwing, etc., which habitually went on among +the shearers during the evening when work was over. Don Juan, too, had +always been fond of a bit of racing, and did not hesitate to back Bent's +horse, which he pronounced the best of the two, supposing always he was +able to stay the course. It was somewhat a stiff one, and longer than +usual, the ground rising considerably during the last part of it. Bent +considered this to be to his advantage, as his horse, accustomed to the +Sierras, went exceedingly well over uneven ground, and he felt quite +confident he should win the race. On the appointed day the weather was +fine, and, as it happened there was no wind. The start was to be at +eleven o'clock, and I was one of those chosen to see it made, and to +send the horses and their riders on their way. Both apparently looked +all right as they jogged quietly down to the starting point. Quite a +crowd had collected to see the finish. Everyone wore their best clothes, +and the old Cerro for the moment looked quite gay. It had seen many +events and happenings in its time. A first-rate start was made, and the +horses got away quite even. Then Bent's horse took a slight lead, but at +the end of half a mile, to our great astonishment, suddenly collapsed, +shivering all over, and breaking out all at once into a thick lather of +white sweat; indeed, for four or five minutes he could scarcely stand, +swaying all the time to and fro on his legs, like a drunken man. I did +not know the least what had happened, but Jennings, who was well up in +these matters, at once stated his opinion that the horse had been got at +early that morning by one of the natives, who must have given him some +poison, probably the leaves of a shrub which grew on the banks of the +river Pichinango, for he said all the symptoms were just those which the +leaves of that plant would produce, and he had known it done more than +once before. These began to pass off during the afternoon, and the horse +to recover; indeed, by next morning he looked as if nothing had been the +matter with him. Of course, however, nothing could be proved: the stakes +had to be paid over, and the bets, which were mostly in favour of the +rosillo, had to be paid also. I myself had bet nothing on either horse, +so I was no loser, for, unlike Jennings, as a matter of fact, I really +had no taste for racing. There was, of course, a good deal of +excitement, and some quarrelling, in the galpon during the evening--more +especially as that day, being a general holiday, there had been a +certain amount of Canya on the go; but Don Juan managed to quiet things +down. Then the night came, and as it always does, overshadowed all +things. The next morning all the shearers, having received payment for +their work, mounted their horses and departed, and the old Cerro once +again resumed its usual aspect of quiet and dignified seclusion. The old +year passed peacefully away, and the new one came in with all its +possibilities and all its hopes and fears. Meanwhile, Mrs. Dampier and +the children had returned to La Concordia, from their visit to Monte +Video, which really had been prolonged longer than they expected. + +This was chiefly owing to the war, which made the long journey less safe +than in time of peace, and there was always the danger of having the +horses taken as you travelled through the open country. Don Frederico +had gone into town to return with them, taking two peones with him, and +quite a large tropilla of horses. People generally in disturbed times +travelled by the diligence, which plied to and fro pretty regularly on +the "Camino Real," or Government road--but it was a most uncomfortable +mode of conveyance for a lady with children, so in spite of the risk it +was preferable to travel in one's own carriage, with a good supply of +horses and a reasonable escort. Fortunately, all went well, and they +reached home safely without any trouble or contretemps of any kind. + +During the middle of January the weather became very hot, and work had +to be suspended from twelve until two o'clock as a matter of course, and +very often longer, for in those good old days, as they were called, the +custom of keeping the siesta during the summer months held sway over the +length and breadth of the republic. The old Indian, Feliciano, who lived +in a little house built of stone down below the big manga, was a +wonderful old man. He looked after the flock of rams, and was now quite +old; a true Indian of the Pampas, both in appearance and character, and +his son, Juan, who was up with me at the Cerro, must have been himself +well over fifty years of age. Old Feliciano himself was extremely silent +and reserved. I don't think I ever heard him speak more than three or +four consecutive words at any one time. But he was most scrupulous in +the performance of duty in regard to looking after his flock, which was +never neglected under any circumstances whatever. He had been years at +the Cerro, where for a long time it was impossible to get him to live in +any kind of house. He preferred to live in a "tolda," a shelter made of +mare's hides, stretched over a light wooden frame, as did the original +Indians of the Pampa, from whom he sprang, and among whom he was reputed +to have been a leader or chief. As the sun set below the western horizon +he would walk to some little rise of the ground, where he could better +see it, and facing it, fall down on his knees and say a short prayer. He +did not like being observed, but I have myself watched him do this when +he was not aware that I was within sight. He had descendants living +round him to the second and third generation. He was said to have been a +famous horseman in his time, as indeed were all his race, for they +practically passed their whole lives on horseback. + +I had been riding a brown horse, with a wall-eye, and some white hairs +in his tail; he was not much to look at, but I found him to be +sure-footed and comfortable, and a good horse among cattle. There was a +little chestnut, too, which was very pleasant to ride. The Indians had +horses of various sorts and colours, which they had been accustomed to +ride themselves. Among these was a little rosillo, or roan, which I +noticed Justiano liked to saddle up frequently, particularly when work +amongst cattle was going on. He was not much to look at, being small, +with rather a hollow back, and he seemed to me poor in condition, and to +be overworked. Moreover, I saw that he had a nasty sore underneath the +recado, one day when he was being unsaddled, so I took pity on him, and +told the Indian not to ride him in future, as I would try to dress the +wound, and if possible get it well. So I washed it myself, night and +morning, applying a solution of tincture of arnica, and it soon began to +mend. The horse, too, improved in condition by a little rest and freedom +from pain. When the wound seemed nearly all right again, I saddled him +up with my English saddle, and took him out for about an hour. I enjoyed +riding him; he was so full of go; but at the same time docile and quiet. +When I saw Don Frederico, he told me his history. One afternoon at the +end of the Flores War, a soldier rode up to La Concordia, and asked for +a fresh horse. "I cannot think what has come to this one," he said. "He +is a real good one, but no sooner did we cross the river Rosario, coming +from the Swiss colony, than he seemed to collapse all at once. He has +come nearly ten leagues (30 miles), without shewing any sign of being +tired." Don Frederico himself came out at the moment, and looked at the +horse. "I can tell you," he said. "The rosillo has our mark, and so soon +as he crossed the river he knew he was on his own camp, where he was +born. He must have been caught as a 'potro,' or colt, and have been +tamed by the soldiers. Except that he carries the mark of this estancia, +we none of us know anything about him. However, go to the kitchen and +get some refreshment, and we will give you another horse, and doubtless +the rosillo will be glad enough to find himself at home again." No +sooner, however, was he let loose, than he gave two or three neighs of +joy and then he trotted off, straight up to the Cerro, and joined the +horses there, so we could only conclude he must have originally been +caught and taken from the Cerro end of the estancia. Such was his +history, and I now saw after him myself, and took him for my own riding. +He was a real good little horse, and I liked him more and more as time +went on. Napoleon liked him, too, and used to lie down beside him when I +had him tied up under the "ombu" tree, which gave so good a protection +from the sun in the courtyard, and then as evening came I let him loose, +so that he might join the other horses, and feed and enjoy himself to +his heart's content. + +As it happened, since the New Year, no soldiers had passed the Cerro, +nor had we heard any news of the war, but I was quite prepared to look +upon this as merely an interlude, and we kept a good look out, +especially in the early morning and late evening. So soon as the hot +spell passed, and the weather became cooler, our first business was a +gathering together of the horses. This meant a general sweep up of +everything in the shape of a horse on the estancia: the riding horses at +La Concordia and the Cerro alone excepted, for these were brought up +into the corral each morning, in accordance with the daily routine. +There were two large "manadas," or troops of mares with foals at the +Pichinango, one called the "saino," or brown, and the other the "moro," +or dark blue roan; these being the colours of the respective stallions +which presided over them. These "manadas" usually fed quite apart, on +different portions of the camp. They each made up a large number, as +they included not only yearling foals, but both colts and fillies of two +and three years old, although the former of these usually cut themselves +off from the main body, forming small points feeding by themselves. To +gather together so many horses and keep them in control a good many +horsemen were needed, so nearly everyone who could ride joined in. +Marmasola, who had a small lot of mares of his own which fed on the +estate, was in great force with his sons and two other native friends. +Laborde and Martin were always ready to help, and the Indians were +delighted at the prospect of a really first-class gallop. I got a man +called Pedro Lima, living in the Swiss Colony, but really himself a +native, and a first-rate camp man, to come and take charge of the +operation of getting all the horses shut up in the big manga; not an +easy matter unless they were skilfully handled; and I asked him to bring +two or three of his native friends well-mounted with him. In accordance +with camp etiquette, I sent round to our native neighbours, inviting +them to come and join us, as we intended branding some foals, so giving +them the opportunity to come and see if any of their animals were by +chance mixed up with our horses. The appointed day proved fine, and we +were all in the saddle before sunrise, old Robinson alone excepted. We +had arranged to join up with Marmasola and the party from La Concordia +and so form a continuous line, driving everything in the shape of a +horse straight in front of us in the direction of the Cerro. It must be +remembered that this was a much more critical job than gathering up the +cattle, as the horses could travel as fast or faster than we could. +Moreover, when dealing with them in large numbers, care and good +management were a real necessity if they were to be shut up inside the +manga at all. I rode "Carnival"; the Indians were mounted as they liked +themselves; "Napoleon," although he was no use, would not be left +behind. Don Frederico and Mr. Jennings and their people joined us at the +place appointed, as did Pedro Lima and his friends, as well as the +puesteros, when plans were laid down and instructions given all round as +to how the work was to be carried out. Don Frederico, who was a +beautiful rider, was mounted on his gay rosillo. He always rode on a +recado, with silver mounting in front and behind; he had silver fittings +to his bridle, and chain reins for a little way, just where they joined +the bit, then made of well-worked and softened hide, with silver rings. +He wore long boots, silver spurs, and carried a light summer poncho +across his saddle in front of him. Altogether, a picturesque figure!--a +true estanciero of the old regime--nor do I think he was ever happier +than when he felt his best horse under him, and work of this particular +kind was the order of the day. + +Jennings, on his dark grey, cut a different figure; he did not look the +genuine camp man at all, neither was he in the slightest degree; and it +was easy to see that work of this kind was not congenial to him. +Marmasola and his boys were in great spirits. What he did not know about +horses was not worth knowing, although he himself was not a great rider; +advancing years were beginning to tell their tale. But he had been +through the war of Oribe, generally known as the Big War. He remembered +the traditions of "the past," and as he had now been on the estate for a +great number of years, certain privileges were accorded to him; but at +the same time he would spare no trouble and was always willing to do +anything he could to benefit the estancia and its owner. We all formed +into line on the western boundary, facing towards the Cerro, stretching +out both to right and left, and riding some three hundred yards apart. +We allowed the cattle to go back between us, but drove all horses of +every kind in front of us. Some of the colts tried hard to break back, +and for the moment succeeded, but were eventually rounded up and brought +back within the line. "Carnival" carried me splendidly: he was really +very fast, and at the same time perfectly sure-footed. He made one feel +quite safe even at full speed, and it was a pleasure to be so well +mounted. Meanwhile, the line kept drawing in, and as the horses in front +of us began to get up towards the manga, Pedro Lima and a couple of +natives, by making a swift detour, got round in front of them so as to +round them up as much as possible, more or less where the rodeo of the +cattle was situate, and so to keep them in some measure under control +until we all came up from behind and were able to form a regular ring +round them. Meanwhile the old Indian, Feliciano, had some half a dozen +tame horses not very far from the open gateway of the manga, and as +these gave a convenient lead to all the others, we got the whole lot +safely inside without much difficulty. This was fortunate, because if +horses in a round-up of this description once succeed in breaking away +in any number together, they are very difficult to get back again, owing +to the speed at which they can travel. Once inside the manga, however, +we were able to look them over at our leisure. There were a good many +foals to be branded, so a fire was got ready. Moreover, breakfast had to +be thought of, and it was not very long before a couple of roasts were +preparing in front of it. We found there were nearly a dozen colts over +four years old which in the ordinary way ought to have been caught up to +be tamed, but owing to the war, it was decided to put this off for a +year, for the reason that a good-looking colt which shewed any signs of +having been handled, was more likely to be taken by soldiers than one +which had been left entirely alone. They were very clever at seeing into +this, even when the animals were feeding in the open camp. We found some +riding horses shut up with the troop which did not belong to the +estancia, but had probably been left behind by soldiers as they passed. +These we caught up and took down to La Concordia, so that they might +meanwhile do such work as they were able. If they could do nothing else +they would be good enough for the puesteros to look after their sheep +on, or for the ordinary routine work of the estancia. It was very +interesting to watch all the horses when gathered together in the manga. +I had never, of course, seen so many collected before, and it was a +pretty sight to watch them and to note their different colours and +characteristics. During the interval for breakfast the two stallions +occupied themselves in having a fight, attacking each other fiercely; +standing on their hind legs and striking at each other with their fore +feet; then they would go round in a circle, each looking out for an +opportunity to strike more effectively. Many of the mares too were busy +picking up their belongings,--as they would often have a foal and a +yearling, and even a two-year-old descendant regularly following after +them. + +It was very interesting to watch them all, and to observes their ways +and manners. There was plenty of opportunity to do this, as after the +foals were branded we did not let them go until between three and four +o'clock. When at last they were turned loose, they did not let the grass +grow under their feet, but soon divided themselves off more or less into +their own lots, and with their own companions. Indeed, had they been +looked up early on the following morning they would have probably been +found feeding more or less together in the same groups, and on the same +particular part of the estancia where we had originally found them. The +weather had now become quite hot again, and we had continual sunshine +for nearly a fortnight. There was a stone puesto about half way between +the Cerro and the "Pass of the Pichinango," where an old negro called +Tio Benigno lived, looking after a flock of sheep. He was now dead, and +the flock had been removed, but his so-called widow, black like himself, +was still living on there, with a numerous progeny of various sorts and +sizes, almost destitute of clothes who ran in and out of the abode like +rabbits, when anyone happened to ride up. They seemed to be living on +the rations which had been allowed to the departed parent, which were +still being allowed to them. Don Frederico would have been glad if I +could have got them to leave the puesto altogether, but the question was +where were they to go? I was riding down to La Concordia during the +siesta when I saw a peculiar sight. As I was about to cross the Canyada +Grande, a short way further up the stream, the black lady was sitting +astride an old dun horse, short both of mane and tail in the middle of a +large pool, with a fishing rod in her hand, apparently intent on +fishing. Of clothes she had none. Such garments as she possessed lay in +a heap on the bank by the water. Her black skin fairly shone and +glistened in the sunshine. On her head was an old black silk top hat, +which also reflected the rays of light. It had doubtless been a gift to +her departed husband from one of the young Englishmen who might have +been staying at the Cerro, presumably with no idea, however, that it +would be put to its present use. The lady saw me pass, but did not +appear in the least to mind. She simply gave a broad grin, and leaving +her to pursue her peaceful occupation, I passed on my way. Not very long +afterwards someone who had known her husband asked her to go and keep an +eye on quite a small lot of sheep, and also to act as "lavandera," or +washer-woman, as well. So I persuaded her not to lose the opportunity of +changing her abode, and gladly sent a cart to move such belongings as +she had. Indeed, I was glad to have the puesto empty, for it was in the +direct route along which soldiers would pass coming from the town of +Colla, and going north, and it seemed better that they should have the +road clear in front of them. Rumour in time of revolution was always +busy, and it was said that the Colorados intended for some reason best +known to themselves to fall back before very long from the province of +Colonia, and join up with their main force in the province of San Jose. +Should this prove correct, it seemed probable that a portion of the +Blanco army, which, during all this time had been steadily concentrating +up beyond Paysandu, would seize the opportunity to occupy that province +themselves. That being so, it seemed obvious that open hostilities, +which had now for some time seemed far away from us, would come much +nearer. The fact was it was impossible to foresee what lay before us in +the future, and all we could do was to carry on as well as we could for +the present, and hope for the best. + +Up to now we had certainly been very fortunate, for our horses had not +been taken; all had gone on very much as usual; nor had there been any +interference either with our sheep or cattle. There happened to be two +colts among the horses at the Cerro nearly five years old: a bay and a +brown, and I determined to have these tamed. One was the foal of the bay +"madrina" mare, and the other had joined the troop on its own account. +They were both accustomed to come up each day into the corral, and to +see people about, nor had either of them led the wild life of the open +camp. So there was every reason to suppose they would prove docile, and +I did not trouble to look out for a regular "domador," or horse-tamer, +as I thought that Juan, the Indian, would manage, with the help of his +nephews, both of whom were good riders. The rough and ready system of +taming in the old days consisted of lassoing a colt in the yard, tying +him up to a post for the night, and next morning saddling him up with a +"recado," with the "cincha," or broad hide girth, as tight as possible. +A narrow piece of hide nicely softened was then tied twice round the +lower jaw, to which the reins were attached, a couple of pieces of soft +sheepskin were fastened over the framework of the recado, while the four +legs of the animal were tied together by a "maneador," or long thong of +hide, in such a manner that by giving one pull it would all come loose +and fall to the ground. The colt was then untied from the post to which +he had been made fast, and up got the rider, who was going to give him +his first gallop. Two men were ready on horseback, one on either side, +while a third man on foot gave the thong round the horse's legs a sharp +pull, when it fell loose. Usually the colt would make a wild rush +forward, the two horsemen keeping each as close to him as they could on +either side, so as to steer him in a straight line. Old Juan was now +over fifty, nor was he a regular tamer; but he could still sit tight on +a horse which did not buck-jump too hard or too long, and there was +always the chance that he would not buck-jump at all, but just bolt off +across the open camp. With the bay colt even this did not happen, for he +merely lunged forward at a sort of uneven trot, wondering very much at +finding anyone on his back. Then he stopped, unwilling to proceed, which +Justiniano quickly made him do by a free application of his whip. +Eventually he made his first gallop all right and came back apparently +having had quite enough of it. That evening the brown colt was tied up +as had been the bay, and the same procedure was followed in the early +morning. Unfortunately, however, he buck-jumped rather badly, so soon as +he was mounted and let loose, and he gave Old Juan a bit of a shaking, +but he did not do it for long, and the Indian was able to sit tight and +give the colt his first gallop, bringing him back quite sufficiently +subdued for one day at any rate. + +The gallops went on each morning, with both the colts for about ten +days, by the end of which time not only was there no more buck-jumping, +but they were beginning to get handy even to the extent of answering the +pressure of the rein on the side of the neck, and of turning in some +measure as required. + +Juan was quite proud of his performance, and began to imagine he was a +young man again and a regular horse tamer. Moreover, an extra allowance +of Canya, or white rum, of which he was always fond, and at once took +effect upon him, made him talk most amusingly of all the colts he had +tamed in his early life, and the wonderful things he had done. At the +end of three weeks, both the colts were bitted and could be ridden +either by Margarito or Justiniano, and it was not long before they were +able to take their place among the tame horses. + +Attached, as they were, to the tropillas, they were as likely to be +taken by soldiers as colts as they would be when tamed, for they would +know well enough that young horses among their surroundings were not at +all likely to be difficult to break in. I had been lately riding a +"manchado," or piebald horse, which had been bred and born town of +Colla. He had not much to commend him, but he was easy and quiet to +ride. A sad story was connected with him. Between two and three years +previously a young Englishman of good position who had come out to have +a look at the country, was staying as a guest at the Cerro. One day he +rode the "manchado" over to the little country town of Colla. He had not +much to recommend him. Returning late at night, he unsaddled the horse +in the small yard, just outside the stable. He then took off the bridle, +and then, not thinking what he was doing, gave the horse a hit with the +reins on his quarters, to drive him out of the yard. The horse kicked +out sharply with both hind feet, one hoof catching him just under the +throat, and the other at the pit of the stomach. He fell senseless to +the ground, and must have remained unconscious for some time. When he +came round, he managed to crawl into the galpon and awake the Indians, +who, as usual, were fast asleep. They gave the alarm, and a messenger +was sent in all haste for a doctor, who was then living on a small place +he had beyond and to the eastward of the Cerro. He kindly came over at +once, and applied such remedies as he could, but to no purpose, for the +poor young man during the morning again became unconscious, and late in +the afternoon passed quietly to his rest. It was indeed a sad business, +and what made it worse was the thought of how easily it might have been +avoided. The "manchado" used to rear a bit at times, but not really +badly, and I never knew him show the least sign of kicking during the +time I had anything to do with him. Later on, I handed him over to +Justiniano, who always gave his heels an uncommonly wide berth, and +eventually he was taken by a party of soldiers, and we saw no more of +him. About a week later I had occasion to ride over one afternoon to the +pulperia on the other side of the pass across the river Rosario, +opposite to Marmasola's puesto. I called in as I passed to enquire if +there was any news, and I saw his wife, who told me her husband was out +with the flock. Reaching the pulperia, I found the owner, a tall +good-natured looking man, at home, and we soon arranged the business +about which I had come. He then told me that towards the end of the +previous week Mamerto Gomez, a captain in the Red army, was coming out +of the town of Colla with a troop of Colorado soldiers, on his way +towards the province of San Jose. A short distance beyond the furthest +houses a poor cripple sat by the side of the road begging. Mamerto +halted as he passed, and turning to one of his soldiers, said, "Mata me +aquel Bicho amigo," "Friend, kill that reptile for me," whereupon the +man got off his horse and cut the poor cripple's throat from ear to ear. +Leaving the dead body by the roadside, Mamerto Gomez and his troop +passed on their way as if nothing had happened. I asked the pulpero if +he had ever seen Mamerto, and what he was like? "Yes, Senor, I have seen +him two or three times," he said, "and not long ago"; and he at once +gave me particulars as to his appearance. Of course, I had no difficulty +in recognizing him as the same Mamerto Gomez I had first seen at the +Pulperia de Guaycoru, when the old negro said to me, "Cuidado, beware!" +and as the man who had been seen entering the Sierras de Mai Abrigo, +whom Royd had always believed to be the real cause of all his trouble +and ill-luck, viz., the sad death of poor Henriquez, and the stealing of +Bent's flock, and the attempt to break in to his puesto at night. I +called at Marmasola's as I rode back, and found him in, and, as usual, +we discussed the war. He, too, had heard that the Reds were leaving +Colonia, and thought it would not be long before the Blancos turned up +there in considerable force, when he thought it likely we might have +parties of soldiers coming our way, as we should then be in the direct +line of route between them and the concentration of their main army out +towards Paysandu; so there was pretty sure to be a certain amount of +coming and going. He also told me a story of two young Englishmen who +came out to Monte Video during the Flores War, with the intention of +making their way up country. They started to ride out from there alone, +without any guide, and very foolishly, before leaving the city, they +drew a considerable sum of money from the bank, which they carried out +with them. They reached San Jose all right, and the following day +proceeded on their way in the direction of the Cerro del Pichinango, +where they intended to pass the night. They stopped at a pulperia, or +store, for some refreshment about eleven o'clock, where there happened +to be about a dozen natives, among whom were four or five of very bad +character. Such was the account given to the police, who afterwards made +enquiries. Whether they let these men know they had money with them +nobody ever knew. They were known to be dressed each in a light tweed +suit, with a large check pattern on it. The two young Englishmen were +never heard of again, but a long time afterwards pieces of the cloth +they were said to have been wearing were found in the wood on the +further side of the river Rosario, not far from the pass which led over +to the Estancia Pichinango. The conclusion come to was that three or +four of the natives got on in front of them and attacked them, probably +just as they were about to enter the pass, which was rather a wide one, +and having shot them, either dragged or carried the bodies into the +wood; of course, taking the money and everything they possessed from +them. Whether or where they buried the bodies, of course, was not known. +So much time having elapsed, it was impossible to make further +enquiries. They had simply vanished--and being war-time, it was supposed +that anything might have happened to them, for at that time in the camp +murders even in broad daylight were by no means uncommon. + +Marmasola always assumed a very serious aspect when telling this story, +which usually ended by his sitting down on a "banco," or low wooden +stool, and drawing the size of the check pattern on the garments of the +deceased on the mud floor with the point of his knife, at the same time +saying in a solemn tone, "Los dos pobres finados caramba!" "Alas, for +the two poor dead men!" + +I allowed him to finish without interruption, and then I mounted my +horse and rode home to the Cerro, pondering on the many vicissitudes +which it seemed possible might happen to the unwary during life in +war-time in a South American republic. Nothing had happened during my +absence. We got the "tamberos" up to their rodeo, and kept them there +awhile, and when I got back the little flock of southdowns were about +ready to be shut up in their sheepyard for the night. I looked them over +to see that they were all right, and then I went up on to the flat roof +of the house to have a good look round with the glass, and so see if all +was quiet. The sun meanwhile was about to set, and it was not long +before the light began to fade, and one more day had passed and was +gone. When next I saw Don Frederico he discussed the situation, and said +he thought it would be wise to sell a certain number of the "capones," +or wether sheep, which were now in good condition, and also to get a +tropero, or buyer of cattle of good position to come and purchase as +many "novillos," or bullocks, as we could get him to take, as by so +doing we should not only lessen the stock we had to look after on the +estancia, but it would do away with the risk of losing them. The +"capones" chiefly fed together in one flock near La Concordia, with a +certain number in two of the other flocks, so there need be no delay in +having them parted out so soon as we could arrange with a purchaser. So +he decided to attend to this within the next day or two. Meanwhile, if I +heard of anyone likely to purchase up in my direction, I was to let him +know. He also said he would write to one or two of the troperos, who had +been accustomed to buy novillos from us, informing them that we had a +good number for sale, and asking them whether they would be able to make +up a troop. It was not long before two buyers of sheep applied at La +Concordia. A day was fixed for parting them out, and I went down early +with two of the Indians to help to pass the flock through the +sheepyards. The purchasers happened to be friends, so agreed to part +both together on the same day, and divide the sheep between them +afterwards. Altogether they took between six and seven hundred, and +after they had finished we helped them over the Pass of the Rosario, +facing the Swiss Colony, where they intended to shut them up for the +night, before continuing their journey to the town of Colla, where one +of them resided. During the following week we passed the other two +flocks through the sheepyards at the Cerro, drafting out all the capones +and sending them down to the flock at La Concordia to replace the sheep +there which had been already sold. + +Early in the following week, a little before eleven o'clock, a tropero +arrived at the Cerro, and enquired if he could see Don Frederico, as he +wanted to buy some "novillos." I had been out early on horseback, and +had not long returned, and was just about to have some breakfast. I told +him that he was at La Concordia, at the other end of the estancia, and +invited him to come inside and join me, which he seemed pleased to do. +He had a peon with him with a led horse in addition to the ones they +rode, whom I directed to get something to eat in the galpon. The tropero +was grandly dressed in full native costume, a beautiful summer poncho, +bombachos of very fine black merino, tucked inside long boots, the +latter adorned with large silver spurs, and I noticed he was fully +armed. He was an agreeable man, evidently well educated, and he told me +he had two other men and a tropilla of horses in the neighbourhood who +had gone to look at some bullocks at a small native estancia. Breakfast +over, I left him to finish his coffee and smoke, while I went out to +tell Justiniano to catch me up another horse. I then offered to +accompany him as far as La Concordia, so that if Don Frederico happened +to be out, I could have him sent for with as little delay as possible. I +gathered the tropero wished to make up quite a large troop, en route for +Monte Video, and as we had a good many animals to sell, I did my best to +make conversation. Fortunately, when we reached La Concordia, we found +Don Frederico at home. The tropero's credentials were quite satisfactory +to him, as was the price offered. It was therefore agreed that he should +part out and purchase all the novillos on the estancia which he thought +old enough and in sufficiently good condition to take. We on our part +undertook to have all the cattle gathered on the rodeo on Thursday +morning, so that he could part out his bullocks, and to help him to the +best of our power--payment, as usual, to be made on delivery. The +business concluded, the tropero had a glass or two of wine and departed. +He said he had plenty of horses with him for his men. I then rode back +at once to the Cerro, and sent off one of the Indians to advise our +native neighbours and the other round to Laborde, Martin and Marmasola, +to inform them at their puestos of what we had arranged, so that they +might give help as usual. We tied up horses on Wednesday evening, and +made all ready for an early start. I rode "Carnival," the Indians, too, +were fairly well mounted. We met the party from La Concordia, Don +Frederico riding his rosillo, with two big dogs following him, and +Jennings mounted on his dark grey; he seldom rode anything else. The +tropero and his men did not take part in gathering the cattle, but +joined us at the rodeo, near the Cerro, mounted on their best horses, +while the others they had with them were meanwhile feeding not far off, +with a boy in attendance, to look after them. The cattle came up well, +and just as we got to the rodeo, Pedro Lima arrived with a couple of +natives, and also three or four of our neighbours beyond the Cerro +turned up, so we had plenty of help to keep the cattle well under +control. Don Frederico and the tropero came up to the house for some +coffee and a biscuit, but we were soon back again, when the work of +parting out the bullocks at once began. A point of tame cattle had +meanwhile been brought up to a suitable position a short distance from +the herd. These were guarded by Juan, the Indian, with his two nephews +to help him. The tropero was mounted on an "oscuro," or black brown +horse, and his two men rode one a grey and the other a bay. + +He began by riding in among the cattle with one of his men, singling out +a suitable bullock, and then the two together, one on either side, ran +it out into the point of tame cattle, where it had to remain whether it +liked to or not. Then a second bullock was run out, and so on, one after +another, until quite a good number were parted. One of the tropero's men +now went to help the Indians to guard them, as every now and again one +would try to escape, intent on rejoining the main herd, and occasionally +a bullock would break loose and make for the open camp, determined to +fight hard for liberty. But it was not to be! for the men were +well-mounted and knew their business, and the horses knew theirs. They +were, of course, faster than the bullocks, and when an animal was +desperate, and really refractory the lasso came into play, and he was +brought back his energy spent, and having been well bullied about he +generally thought it better to keep quiet for the time being. A really +good horse for work of this kind must be safe and quick on his legs, and +have plenty of courage. Indeed, the best thing the rider can do, if well +mounted, is to sit tight and leave as much as he can to his horse, who +seemed to know all that was expected of him, and was seldom found to +fail. + +It was now eleven o'clock, seventy-five bullocks had been parted; each +one being counted as it went by two people. So a fire was lighted, and a +large "asado," or roast of mutton, put on, a little coffee and sugar, +some biscuits, farinha and yerba, for the men's Mate were brought down +from the Cerro, and it was not long before breakfast was ready. When up +at the house I let "Carnival" go, and saddled up the rosillo, who was +now in first-rate condition. Work was resumed with as little delay as +possible, and when the tropero announced it was time to stop one hundred +and sixty bullocks had been parted. The tropero seemed well satisfied, +and so were we. Our next business was to give him every assistance to +get the animals outside the boundary of the estancia, where they would +be easier to manage than they were on their own camp. Meanwhile we kept +the tame animals with the novillos which had been parted, to give them a +lead and so render them easier to drive, and we made a start towards the +pass of the Rosario, beyond Marmasola's puesto. There being many of us, +we had no difficulty in getting them across the pass, and when they had +gone a short distance on strange ground we parted out the tame cattle, +and I returned with them to the Cerro. Don Frederico and Jennings, also +the tropero, rode to La Concordia, to receive payment and give the usual +certificate, shewing the mark and number of the animals sold, this +document being required for the police. The sun was now declining fast +towards the horizon, and we had made a fairly long day. Supper, when it +came, was welcome, and the pipe which followed it; and having duly +recorded particulars in the log-book, I was not sorry to lock up and get +early to bed. Autumn was now past, and it would not be long before +winter, with its rain and storm, cold nights and early mornings, would +be really upon us. I had three cart-loads of wood brought up from the +"monte," where we had some men working. Some of the flocks had to be +passed through the sheepyards, and what with attending to one thing and +another, I always found the day pretty fully occupied. Ten days later a +party of Blanco soldiers rode up and asked if they could have some food, +and also fresh horses. They were on their way to the town of Colla, +having passed not far from Guaycoru, as they travelled from outside. +With them was Colonel Mallada, who had sent back Francisco's pony at Las +Sierras de Mal Abrigo. He had a great reputation among the natives as a +fighter. When I went out I found him sitting on his horse, surrounded by +some twenty soldiers. I invited him to get off and come in and have some +breakfast while the soldiers lit a fire at a little distance, and made +themselves a roast outside, for, as it happened, we had a whole sheep +hanging in the galpon, ready skinned and dressed. I was amused to see +the attitude of the Indians when the Colonel passed through into the +courtyard. They stood up together on one side, as it were, at attention, +with a very solemn expression of countenance, and they evidently looked +upon him as a man to be feared rather than loved. He was quite civil +during our meal, and told me that a large division of the Blancos were +coming down to occupy the province of Colonia, while the main army was +now largely concentrated outside, waiting for a favourable opportunity +to march in to the province of San Jose, and so on towards the capital +itself. He seemed to enjoy a cigarette with his coffee after our meal, +and a glass of Canya also met with approval. Meanwhile, I had told +Justiniano to get all the horses up into the corral. I had "Carnival" +tied up under the ombu tree in the courtyard. The Colonel himself was +well-mounted on a good-looking grey, apparently quite fresh. The +soldiers caught five of our horses, and left us three tired ones, so we +did not get off so badly after all, and I was very glad to think that +the rosillo, whose back I had cured, was not among them. They all rode +off, apparently satisfied, towards the Pass of the Pichinango, and we +were all glad to see them depart. But it made me think, and realise what +now might at any time happen, and I determined to have the rosillo +caught up and tied in the courtyard oftener than I had done, and to keep +a sharp look-out over "Carnival." At two of the puestos the shepherds +were each somewhat of a character in their way. They were both of them +"bascos," _i.e._, either natives of or having originated from one of the +Bay of Biscay provinces in Spain. One of them, whose name was Gaitan, +looked after what was known as the "Fine Flock," because it contained +the highest strain of Negretti blood. From it were selected the male +lambs, which were to be the future rams for the other flocks. He was now +no longer in middle age, bent in figure, and slow in his movements. He +lived quite alone, doing his own cooking and washing, and he wore +remarkably old clothes. He had been for many years on the estancia, +getting the usual pay of a puestero, viz., fifteen dollars and +thirty-six cents per month (just over L3), together with his allowance +of meat and rations, viz., farinha, yerba and salt, which he received +monthly. His only luxury was a little tobacco, and he was said to be +somewhat of a miser, and to be quite rich. He was usually seen +bestriding an old and rather poor horse, but he was a very good +shepherd, and except when cooking or eating his meals, or towards +evening, when his sheep were drawing home, I never knew him to be long +absent from his flock. He was extremely reserved and silent, and I +always found it difficult to carry on a conversation with him. His +puesto was situate to the north of La Concordia, rather towards the +centre of the estancia, and really not very far distant from the +former. The other shepherd was called Anjel; he was a much younger man, +although he looked older than he really was. He, too, was reserved and +silent, and I often wondered if it was the solitary life he led which +tended towards this, and whether he would have appeared a somewhat +different man if he had been cast among other surroundings. He had +neither wife nor child, and like Gaitan, was but a poor rider, and I +never saw him on a decent-looking horse. But he had usually a dog with +him, and I often saw a cat or two when I visited his puesto, situate +close to the river Pichinango, some little distance below the pass. Here +the grass was good and plentiful, and his flock, which was rather a +large one, did very well. He was a most careful and conscientious +shepherd, and a skilled worker in wasca, or raw hide, of which he +manufactured reins and headstalls, and whips and hobbles; indeed, +everything of the kind a well-equipped horseman would require. Just +about this time I did not happen to be very busy, so was able to shoot a +few partridge, more correctly described as "quail," which were now in +good condition, and made a pleasant variation in diet. There was a +little single barrel gun available, which I found very nice to shoot +with. I also managed to shoot some of the common deer of the Pampas +(Cervus Gampestris) with my rifle, the flesh of which is not very +appetising, but the skins were easy to dry and soften, and were not only +useful as a covering for my "recado," or native saddle, but also served +well as rugs for the floor of the sitting-room. The natives mostly chase +the deer on horseback with dogs. There is a very curious peculiarity +attaching to the young of this species of deer when not more than three +or four days old, when the perfection of its instincts at that tender +age seems very wonderful in a ruminant. When the doe with fawn is +approached by a horseman, even when accompanied by dogs, she stands +perfectly motionless, gazing fixedly at the enemy, with her fawn at her +side. Then suddenly, as if at a preconcerted signal, the fawn rushes +away from her at its utmost speed and, going to a distance of perhaps +six hundred yards, conceals itself in a hollow on the ground, or among +the long grass; lying down very close, with head stretched out +horizontally, and will thus remain until sought by the dam. When very +young it will allow itself to be taken, making no further effort to +escape. After the fawn has run away the doe still maintains her +statuesque attitude, as if to await the onset. Then, but only when the +dogs are close upon her, she too rushes away; but invariably in a +direction as nearly opposite to the fawn as possible. At first she runs +slowly, with a limping gait, and frequently pausing as if to entice her +enemy on, just like a partridge, duck, or plover when driven from its +young. But as the dogs begin to press her more closely her speed +increases, becoming greater the further she succeeds in leading them +from the starting point. Truly a marvellous combination of both instinct +and sagacity, and also of maternal love. + +Winter was now come, and we had a spell of cold and stormy weather, with +a fair amount of rain. I was out in the camp and round the puestos +pretty constantly, to see that the flocks were all right, and that there +had been no trouble from soldiers. One afternoon I called at La +Concordia to see Don Frederico, as I thought it advisable to have three +of the flocks passed through the sheepyards, to part out sheep which did +not belong to them, and have their feet attended to. This was necessary +from time to time, as during bad and stormy weather a certain amount of +mixing was apt to occur, however careful the puestero might be. It was +obviously more difficult to prevent where the land over which one of +the flocks was accustomed to feed lay in the same direction on the +estancia, and not very far distant from the land occupied by another. +Don Frederico told me he was making arrangements to send Mrs. Dampier +and the children on a visit to England, and that he was already in +communication with the shipping company about taking their passage. His +idea was that they should go into Monte Video about a week before the +steamer left, and that he would drive them himself in his own carriage +with horses and a couple of servants, while their luggage could be sent +in a cart to San Jose, and on from there by diligence to Monte Video. +The visit to England had been thought of some little time, but, as, +owing to the war, things seemed to be getting more and more unsettled, +he thought it better not to delay longer than was necessary. He spoke to +me about two or three matters needing attention, and said that Jennings +would remain at La Concordia during his absence, and would help me in +any way should anything of consequence happen, or an unforeseen +difficulty arise. When I got back, I found old Robinson in a very +unsatisfactory state; he had evidently got hold of some Canya, but how I +could not imagine, as I always kept it securely locked up. He talked a +lot of nonsense about being tired of life at the Cerro, and of his +determination, although he knew he was an old man, to go off somewhere +or other, he did not care where, with a view to bettering himself. I +concluded this phase would be a passing one, and by next morning he +would be himself again. However, when it came, he was both dull and +disagreeable, and although he had always been subject to occasional fits +of the kind, I felt that his present state of mental irritation and +unrest really proceeded from something more than his having drunk a +little more than was good for him. I enquired of the Indians if anyone +had been to see him. Margarito had seen no one, but Justiniano said he +had been looking up the "tamberos," and as he was riding back he saw +someone in the distance come out of the door of the kitchen, mount a +horse, and ride off towards the Pichinango; and he thought by the way he +rode he looked like a "gringo," the native term for a foreigner. +However, next day Robinson seemed better, and the little household +disturbance for the moment at any rate passed over. At the end of the +week seven Blanco soldiers rode up and asked for food and horses. They +had evidently come a good distance, and were en route for Colonia. They +had four tired horses, which they left with us, taking the two horses +previously left by soldiers, and two of ours as well. However, they were +quite civil, and one of them told me we might expect to have a good many +more coming our way before long. "Carnival" and the rosillo happened +both to be tied up in the courtyard, nor did they trouble the least +about them. Old Juan, the Indian, mostly kept himself out of sight when +soldiers arrived. I suppose he had a sort of idea they might take him +off, as they probably would have done had he been younger. I noticed he +was always very talkative, and apparently in extra good spirits when +they had gone. After about a week the bad weather cleared up, and it set +in fine and dry. I went down to La Concordia the afternoon before Don +Frederico and the family were to leave for Monte Video. Everything was +now ready; the luggage had been sent on two days previously, and they +were to make an early start the following morning, which happened to be +a Wednesday. It turned out a lovely day for the time of the year, +continual sunshine, with a cool breeze, perfect for travelling. On +Saturday I had our usual para rodeo of the cattle, and they came up +well. Early on Monday morning I started on "Carnival" to ride down to +the far end of the Swiss Colony, whence the land stretched away to the +Estuary de la Plata, which divided the republic of Uruguay from that of +Argentina. I called at La Concordia on my way, and had a talk with +Jennings about the business I had on hand. My object was to see a man, +Emile Gunther by name, who was a buyer of hides and sheepskins. We had a +large number of these at the Cerro, and I was anxious to be rid of them, +as they were apt to get damp and out of condition during the winter. I +crossed the Pass of the Rosario below La Concordia, into the Colony, +following the track which led out of it, gradually rising to higher +ground. Every here and there "chacras," or farms, each surrounded by +more or less cultivated land. Many of the houses were built of bricks, +plastered and whitewashed outside, one storey only, with bright red +tiles on the roof, and they usually had a wide open verandah, very +convenient to sit in, and also to eat one's meals during warm weather. +Each house seemed to have its garden, where vegetables did well, for the +soil was good and easy to work, and it was rare to find one without a +few flowers, while clumps of "eucalypti," the blue gum of Australia, +planted either round or near the homesteads, were almost universal. The +stables and outbuildings were mostly mud-huts, with roofs of "paja," a +reed which was quite common, and very suitable for the purpose. All this +was that part of the Colony which could be seen in the distance from La +Concordia, where the original Colonists had first settled themselves +down and made their homes. As I rode on, I came to a much wider track, +with wire fencing stretched on wooden posts on either side, running at +right angles to the one I had hitherto followed. Turning to the left, I +rode along this in a south-westerly direction, and as I proceeded the +farms got fewer, and further apart, while the land intervening was +thickly covered by a shrub, with a small leaf, the knobby roots of +which, when dried, made excellent firewood. Here cattle and horses could +be seen feeding, for the soil was rich and fertile, and where the shrub, +or "chirca," as it was called, was not too thick, good grasses grew in +between. I had no difficulty in finding Senor Gunther's farm, which was +quite an important one, for, in addition to land under cultivation, +where wheat and maize were grown, there were two large "portreros," or +paddocks, fenced in with wire, affording ample pasturage to a +considerable number of stock. Trees of various kinds had been planted, +including fruit trees, and were growing well. There was a little +"monte," or wood of "eucalypti," and some were also planted on either +side of the drive leading up to the house, forming quite a respectable +avenue. The house was an "azotea," one storey high, with a flat roof, +the rooms spacious and comfortable, overlooking on their further side a +garden, with fruit trees and flowers. As I rode up, I was welcomed by +the owner's wife and daughter, who told me he had only gone down the +farm for half an hour, and would soon return. Meanwhile, they invited me +to come in and sit down, shewing me where to tie up my horse. Senor +Gunther, when he came, was a fine-looking man, above middle height, well +set up, apparently about fifty. He looked shrewd and intelligent, with a +pair of keen blue eyes and light hair, already beginning to turn a +little grey. "Buen dia Senor" (Good morning, Sir) he exclaimed genially, +as he came up to shake hands. "I have heard of you." "I, too, am equally +pleased," I replied in Spanish. "What a nice situation you have, and how +well the trees must have grown!" "Yes, indeed they have," he said, +"considering the time we have been here." He said he had a number of +milk cows, and had already made a fair amount of Swiss cheese, which +sold well, and he had reason to think it would prove profitable, and +hoped to increase it. He told me to unsaddle and turn out my horse into +a small paddock close by, and invited me to stay and have some +breakfast, which would be ready in half an hour. "After this," he said, +"if you have sufficient time to spare, I would like to show you round +the farm." Our meal was enjoyable, and he pressed me to drink some +excellent muscatel wine of a rich golden colour, which he had himself +purchased, and brought out from Monte Video. Coffee and cigarettes +followed, and he had evidently become able to surround himself with an +amount of comfort by no means easily attainable on some of the estancias +outside. Of course, we discussed the war, and I then spoke to him as to +the business about which I had come. Finally, it was arranged that he +should purchase all the hides and sheepskins at the Cerro at the price I +asked for them, and he was to send a cart and fetch them away in about a +week. He told me they were fortunately situate in regard to soldiers, +being out of their track, and that scarcely any seemed to come their +way, nor did he think they were likely to unless anything unforeseen +occurred. After a turn round the garden, he went and had a look at +"Carnival," whom he seemed to admire. I told him I had brought him from +the Sierras de Mal Abrigo, where he was bred and born, and that I was +greatly afraid lest the soldiers should take him at the Cerro, as we +heard so many were coming our way it seemed hardly possible he could +escape. He then said if I cared to leave "Carnival" with him I was +welcome to do so, and he would do his best to look after him, at any +rate until the worst of the trouble we were looking forward to should +pass over. I gladly accepted this offer, with very grateful thanks. My +host suggested I should saddle him up now, when taking our turn round to +farm, and then just have a look at the Piedmontese Colony, which was +not far distant. He further proposed that on our return I could leave +"Carnival," now he was here with him, and he would lend me a horse to +ride home on, which could be brought back when he sent a cart for the +hides, etc. I gladly agreed to this arrangement, and we made a start +forthwith. A peon was ploughing on the arable land, using a somewhat +heavy plough, drawn by a yoke of oxen. It was a slow business, but had +the advantage of turning up the soil fairly deep. The milk cows and a +small flock of sheep were feeding together in one large paddock, while +some nice-looking young stock and the horses were feeding in the other; +besides these was a small flock of fifteen goats, the milk of which I +concluded was used in the manufacture of cheese. Near the house was the +usual corral to shut up animals, and attached to the outbuildings which +were roomy and convenient was a well-arranged dairy. + +We were not long in reaching the Piedmontese Colony, which at that time +consisted only of one pulperia, or general store, and half a dozen +houses, more or less near it. From there the land which stretched away +towards the river Plate was mostly covered with "chirca," and evidently +at that time but sparsely occupied. You could just see the smoke rising +from the chimneys of perhaps a dozen mud ranchos, a considerable +distance apart, evidently in possession of people only recently settled +there, who as yet had not had time to do much in the way of agriculture. +However, I was glad to have a chance of seeing the country, and I +wondered as we rode back what kind of future might possibly lie before +it. Returning to the house we had some coffee and little cakes served +with it. Meanwhile, a chestnut was ready tied up, on which I was to ride +home; not very attractive-looking, but good enough for the purpose. +Indeed, in time of war I had learned that a good-looking horse was a +certain care and an uncertain pleasure. So I bid good-bye to Senor Emile +and his family, with many thanks for their kindness and hospitality, and +the request that should he at any time find himself in the neighbourhood +of the Cerro, he would not fail to call and see me. The chestnut +travelled along quite comfortably, if not very fast, and the sun was +nearly down when I reached home. The first thing Justiniano told me was +that Robinson had departed. Two men from the stonemason's, who lived on +the other side of the Pichinango, had come for him with a led horse, +about the middle of the morning, and old Robinson had put together a few +clothes and belongings and had accompanied them. The craving for drink +had probably been his motive, for the stonemason himself was given that +way, and at his house Canya was generally more or less on the go. Old +Robinson had always kept up a sort of friendship with these people, much +against my wish, for I prophesied they would one day be the ruin of him. +However, the fact I had to face was that I was now without a cook, but +Juan got me some coffee, and supper ready on the fire in the galpon, +which I myself carried into the dining room, and then I smoked a pipe +and thought over my pleasant day. Later I locked all up and went early +to bed. Next morning, when I went out, "Napoleon" greeted me joyfully. I +had left him at home the day before. The Indians got me some hot coffee +at their fire, and after seeing to some things that were necessary, I +saddled up the "mala-kara," or bay, with white blaze and stockings, and +started off to La Concordia to consult with Jennings as to what I had +better do in regard to Robinson's departure. I found him already busy in +the garden pruning the fruit trees, and told him what I had arranged +with Senor Gunther, and how I was now left without a cook. He said he +thought the best thing was to leave Robinson where he was; it was no +good attempting to fetch him back, as he would by this time probably be +drunk and incapable, or, to say the least of it, very difficult to +manage. He proposed to send me a nice-looking young Swiss, called +Vicente, who was looking after the "capones," up to the Cerro, to take +Robinson's place, and also keep an eye on the southdowns, and I could +send Margarito down to La Concordia in his stead. Vicente was handy, and +obliging, getting on for nineteen, nor would he at all object to doing a +little cooking and housework if required. Jennings asked me to stay and +have breakfast, which I did, and said he had received a letter from Don +Frederico, written from Santa Lucia, saying all had gone well, and that +so far they had travelled comfortably. We saw Vicente before I left; he +had just come in from his flock. He said he would be pleased to go up to +the Cerro, and would do his best to make things comfortable, and +promised to be there a little before sundown. I then bid adieu to +Jennings, and rode round by Anjel's puesto. He was out with his flock, +and I came across him without having to go so far as his house. He was +silent and serious as usual, but gave it as his opinion that Robinson +"would come to no good with those people over there," and promised, +should he hear of anything further happening, he would manage to let me +know. When I got home, we got the "tamberos" up on to their rodeo. No +one had arrived during my absence, and I sent Margarito down to La +Concordia as arranged. + +Early in the following week, one morning just after ten o'clock, Colonel +Medina rode up to the Cerro, accompanied by seventy Blanco soldiers. I +had met him before, and Don Frederico knew him well, for he lived not so +very far from the Pichinango, and we had always looked upon him more or +less as a neighbour. I at once invited him to dismount and come inside +and have breakfast, assuring him it would not be long before it was +ready. As for the soldiers, I said they had better make a fire down +below the house, towards the big "manga," and if one was not enough, +they could make two. Meanwhile, I would have a couple of sheep killed, +so that they could make themselves a roast, as they wanted, and I would +send them down a supply of farinha, salt and yerba, in order that they +might do what a native always dearly loves, viz., have a rest and suck +Mate. + +The colonel was a man of middle height, his hair beginning to turn a +little grey. I daresay he would be getting on towards fifty. He was +well-educated, and had to a certain extent travelled, having held a +minor office in the Blanco Government previous to the Flores war, when +the Reds came into power. Probably, too, he looked forward before very +long to taking office again, when the present revolution should be over, +and the success of his own party assured. He told me he was on his way +to Colonia, where a division of the Blanco army would probably be +concentrated, to hold the province before very long, but that the main +advance contemplated, whenever the proper time should come, was to lay +siege to the city of Monte Video itself, and he believed it would be +quite powerful enough to accomplish this when a really suitable +opportunity should arise. This was certainly good news so far as it +went, but at the same time he warned me that the war was as yet far from +being over, for the Colorados were still fairly strong on the inside +camps, especially in the direction of the capital, where they were able +to command the assistance of both infantry and artillery and also, if +necessary, that of mercenary troops as well. I was greatly interested; +indeed, I felt quite sorry when breakfast was over, and the colonel said +it was time to make a move. Neither he nor his soldiers asked for +horses, having a troop of spare ones in first-rate condition, which they +were driving along with them. We parted with mutual compliments, and +with the usual "Hasta la vista amigo!" (Friend, until we meet again!), +and he further told me that if he could do anything for me during the +changes and chances of war-time, I was to be sure to let him know, +which, to say the least of it, was very civil of him. The soldiers +quickly marshalled up near the door leading out of the courtyard, +through which he passed, and I accompanied him. He then mounted a grey +horse, which was being held ready for him, and gave the word of command +to go forward, and we all watched them jogging along towards the Pass of +the Pichinango, when that little excitement was over. It came on to rain +early in the afternoon, and we got the sheepskins turned over, and put +together again, ready for the purchaser when he should think well to +send for them. + +Early next morning the sun shone bright, and warm, but it did not last +long, for a "pampero," or southerly wind, from the Pampas, blew up soon +after mid-day, and towards evening it became very cold and +stormy-looking. I was able to "repuntar," or turn inwards, the cattle on +the northern boundary of the estancia, and also to visit three of the +puestos, where I found everything all right. The following day a bad +spell of weather set in, with cold winds and constant showers of rain. +However, I kept on the move as well as I could, for it was in stormy +weather that a little supervision was most needed. Vicente was an +obliging young man, and did his best in his new occupation, and he made +me a nice little fire in the gun-room stove, where it was comfortable to +sit after supper, especially after having had a bit of a wetting +outside. Jennings had given me two little bull terrier puppies. They +were an amusing little pair about five months old, small in size, with +all the characteristics of a bulldog, except that they were very quick +and active on their legs. One I called "Bully"; he was the colour of +yellow sand, and the other was a brindle, like its mother, and to him I +gave the name of "Brag." As they grew up they hunted the "legatos," a +very large lizard, who lived among the rocks, behind the house. They +also went with me when I took a gun and went after a brace or two of +partridge, and they joined joyfully in the general uproar and barking +when any stranger rode up, or indeed near the house. This was so much to +the good, as it lessened the chance of our being taken unawares as to +what might be coming, always a distinct advantage in time of war. The +rosillo had now quite recovered and greatly improved in condition, and I +often had him tied up in the courtyard, where I gave him a little maize, +which he had learned to eat with satisfaction. I was now able to ride +him with my recado, as well as my English saddle, and I made up my mind +to take all the care I could of him, for the more I rode him the better +I liked him. After about a week the weather became fine, and I decided +to ride in to the little country town of Colla, which lay some nine +miles south of the river Pichinango, as I wanted to go to the "policia," +or police station about some business connected with the estancia. I had +intended to put off going until Don Frederico's return, as I rather +wished to see him before doing so. However, as I understood from +Jennings it was more than likely he would not be able to come home so +soon as he expected, I decided to delay no longer, but to start early +the next morning. I did not want to take a good-looking horse, for I +knew the town would be full of soldiers, so I told Justiniano to have +the horses in the corral in good time, and to catch me up rather an +oldish bay, left by soldiers, nothing whatever to look at, but really a +good deal better horse than he appeared, and also to tie up the rosillo +in the courtyard, about eleven o'clock, so that he might be safer if +anyone came. The little town of Colla lay pleasantly situate on the bank +of a small river. It consisted of one main street, with houses unevenly +built, and somewhat scattered on either side. About half way down this +widened a little, forming a small plaza, or square, where a band played +on summer evenings, and people walked round and round, or sat about and +listened to the music, and enjoyed also the pleasure of looking at their +neighbours. There was a Roman Catholic Church, and some rather +sordid-looking barracks, and quarters for soldiers. Half a dozen +pulperias, and general stores, and two or three "fondes," or second-rate +hotels, with here and there a private residence, often enclosed inside a +garden, completed the buildings of any importance, while stretching away +behind these, on either side were the smaller houses and ranchos, +occupied by natives, more or less of the working class. Some of these +had spaces of cultivated ground attached, and at others two or three +cows and a horse or two, and some poultry would be kept, just as +happened to be most convenient. There were plenty of soldiers about in +the streets, as well as in the cafes and fondas. I rode straight up to +the police station, and it was not very long before I was able to +conclude my business. Having done this, I did not go to an hotel, as I +should otherwise have done, to put up my horse and have some breakfast, +on account of the soldiers, but I made my way to the house of a man +called Pedro Dominguez. It was next to a large general store, which he +owned as well, where he carried on an extensive and profitable business, +as a buyer of produce and a seller of merchandise, and had long had +dealings with the Estancia Pichinango. He received me with courtesy. A +man below the middle height, getting on in years, and somewhat bent in +figure, he looked to me as much like a Portuguese as anything else. +"Buen dia, Senor," he said, as I rode up and explained who I was. +"Please come inside, and I can put up your horse in my stable." +Moreover, he invited me to have some breakfast, which was very good of +him, for I began to feel hungry after my ride. His house was +comfortable, and he had a good sized garden attached, very well kept, +and he told me he was a great lover of flowers. While we were enjoying +our meal one of the black, hairless dogs, greatly esteemed by natives, +trotted into the room. It was about the size of a small terrier, with a +perfectly smooth black skin, entirely devoid of hair. It had a pointed +nose and a pair of very bright eyes, and they are said to be very +affectionate. Senor Dominguez told me he had a widowed daughter and a +grandchild who lived with him, but just then they were away on a visit +to friends in Colonia. Of course, we talked about the war. He said he +had never taken any part in politics, but his sympathies were with the +Blancos, and he was very glad to think that for the present Colla at any +rate, had seen the last of the Colorados, who he believed as a +Government were self-seeking and corrupt, and he felt sure if they were +allowed to continue in power, would bring certain ruin on the country. +We had some coffee and a cigar, and it was after two o'clock when I +saddled up the bay, and with many thanks for his kind hospitality, +started on my return journey. The old horse travelled back faster than +he had come, and I reached the Cerro somewhat earlier than I expected. +As the sun declined, it got quite cold, and I was glad to find a fire +lit in the gun-room stove to welcome me. Justiniano had got up the +"tamberos" on to their rodeo, and the southdowns were already shut up in +their yard, as I rode up to the house. "Napoleon" was delighted to see +me, and even "Brag" and "Bully" gave me a sort of welcome in their way. +I let go my horse, and wrote up the log-book, and so ended what had been +quite an agreeable day. I had the usual "para rodeo" on Saturday, which +was quite satisfactory, and I saw reason to think we were now getting +the cattle well in hand. This was important during time of revolution, +when we were likely to have fewer people to look after them. On the next +Tuesday morning, I had just got in from a turn round the puestos, when +the cart arrived to take away the hides and sheepskins. The Indians gave +the cartman some breakfast in the galpon, and we then counted and handed +over the hides and skins, for which the cartman gave me a receipt, while +I handed to him a certificate that we had sold them. He started for home +about one o'clock, taking with him the chestnut horse, which Senor +Gunther had lent me to ride home on. The cartman told me that "Carnival" +was all right, and seemed quite happy in his new quarters. The middle of +the following week Don Frederico returned to La Concordia. I rode down +to see him, and he said he could hardly believe he had been away nearly +a month. The fact was his family did not leave for England in the +steamer he intended, but waited for the next one, and he naturally +wished to see them safe, and as comfortable as might be on board. I told +him about old Robinson, and he said the arrangement we had made would do +quite well for the present, though later on he should want Vicente back +at La Concordia. Meanwhile, however, I could look about and see if I +could find a cook. The winter was now passing, and every now and again +we had two or three days when the sun would be quite warm, with every +sign of approaching spring. We saw but few soldiers, and they were only +passers-by, anxious to reach the end of their journey as soon as might +be, but we had every reason to believe a considerable movement of troops +would take place before very long. Early in August we had begun to see +symptoms of what is known as epidemia, or sickness among the cattle. At +first a single animal would be found in the camp dead, looking in good +condition, and from no apparent cause. Later two or three might be seen, +and in different parts of the estancia. Then you would find here and +there an animal looking young and even fat, standing by itself, away +from the others, not moving or eating, and with obviously something the +matter with it. If taken in time and got to move quickly, and the +horseman could give it a sharp run, it would probably recover. Should +it, however, have gone too far, all one could do was to kill it, and +take off its hide, rather than let it lie down on the ground and die +slowly by inches. The epidemic went on for some little time, and we lost +a good many cattle, and curiously enough it was much more towards the +Cerro end of the estancia than it was at La Concordia. During this time, +I was constantly out in the camp, looking up sick animals, and I took +Juan and Justiniano with me, to take off the hides when necessary. +Towards the end of the month I was out with the latter having a look +round, and we came across a cow evidently very bad, for it could hardly +stand on its legs and, when I tried to move it, it seemed only to totter +from side to side. I jumped off my horse, handing the reins to the +Indian, and caught hold of its tail with both hands to pull it over. I +pulled my hardest, when the hair came suddenly out of the tail, and +before I could recover myself I fell sideway into a bunch of big +thistles which stood near. Unfortunately, I fell right among them, and +felt one of the stiff sharp thorns pierce the flesh on the inside of my +left arm, just below the elbow. I turned up my sleeve and tried to get +it out with my knife but was unable to do so. We killed the poor cow, +and I left Justiniano to commence taking off the hide while I rode back +to the Cerro and sent his uncle Juan to help him. I then had another try +to get out the thorn, but could not manage it. I bathed it with hot +water, and as it was getting a bit painful, applied a hot poultice and +hoped for the best. September came in fine, and towards noon the sun +began to feel quite warm. At the beginning of its second week, +twenty-two soldiers rode up, and said they wanted horses. I saw they +meant business, so I told Justiniano to get all our horses into the +corral. I had the rosillo saddled in the courtyard, so he was all right, +as it was unusual for soldiers to take a horse one had saddled, except +for some special reason, or because they really wished to be as +disagreeable as they could. They were travelling out north, and were +evidently pressed for time. They took six of our horses, including the +"manchado," which had caused the death of the poor young Englishman, and +left us one, an old bay, and he looked a very poor one. However, there +was no alternative, so we had to put up with it, but it gave me a +reminder of what we had to expect. The two colts we had tamed, now +well-behaved horses, they paid no attention to whatever, and for this I +was glad. My arm had become swollen and inflamed, and continued to give +me a good deal of pain, and I was obliged to have it in a sling. It was +rather a nuisance, for it was my bridle hand, but I consoled myself by +thinking had it been my right arm it would have been worse, and as it +was I could get about as usual. One fine morning, about eleven o'clock, +an old negro woman rode up to the Cerro mounted on a rather thin +"gatiado," or drab-coloured horse, with a dark stripe down its back, +from which is derived its name. She had a maiden with her, black, like +herself, mounted on an old grey. Each had a rug thrown over her horse, +made fast with a surcingle, on which she sat, and appeared quite +comfortable. The old lady asked me if they could stay for a while, and +have a rest before proceeding on their journey. "By all means," I +replied, and told Juan, who happened to be about, to give them a couple +of bancos, or stools by the fire in the galpon, and I also asked them if +they would like anything to eat. "Pero con mucho gusto, Senor," "But +with great pleasure, Sir," they replied, "and if you could kindly give +us a little yerba and sugar we should greatly enjoy drinking Mate, for +we both feel very thirsty." Juan soon made up a good fire, and put on +the kettle for hot water, and gave them a piece of meat to roast, and +some "farinha," and the ladies seemed quite happy. Later on, as I was +passing out through the galpon, the old one came up to thank me for the +hospitality we had shewn them. "But pardon, Senor," she said, "may I ask +what is the matter with your arm, for I see you have it bound up. I +myself am a 'curandera,' or healer, and I am on my way to see a man who +is very ill. Please let me have a look at it." This I gladly did, and +she told me it was the thorn still in it which was causing the trouble, +but she hoped it might work its way out. She said I must take care of +it, as my arm looked to her rather as if it had been poisoned. She +further said I was to send one of the Indians down to the wood which +bordered the bank of the river Pichinango, and he was to get the leaves +of a certain shrub which grew there. I was to make these leaves into a +poultice and put it on my arm as hot as I could bear it every night for +about a fortnight. Further, I was to put the water in which the leaves +were boiled into a jug and drink it cold each morning as soon as I +awoke. She interviewed both Juan and Justiniano and made them clearly +understand what was the shrub the leaves of which were to be brought: +what it was like, and how and where it grew. She then explained to +Vicente exactly how to make the poultice, and how much of the leaves to +use at a time. Then came the curious part of the would-be cure. The old +lady insisted that I should begin it on the first evening of the new +moon, and at no other time but then. We were all somewhat impressed, the +Indians very much so, for they looked up the "curandera" with a certain +amount of superstitious awe. However, I determined to try the "remedio," +and as there happened to be a new moon that evening I sent Justiniano at +once off to the Pichinango to find the leaves. He returned with a good +supply of them. It was a small leaf, a little larger than the ordinary +tea leaf, and it reminded me very much of the leaf of a small tree known +as the "manouka" tree, of New Zealand. So the poultice was duly made; +the water in which the leaves were boiled was put ready to drink the +first thing next morning, and forthwith the prescribed treatment began. +A few days passed, when one morning, between seven and eight o'clock +fifteen soldiers rode up and demanded horses. The tropillas had not long +been turned out of the corral, so our horses were quite close for the +soldiers to see. There was nothing for it but to shut them in and let +them take what they wanted. I did the best I could, but they took four +and left one, an old gatiado, with a stripe down its back, the same +colour as the one the curandera had ridden. The soldiers only stayed +long enough to get horses, and then resumed their journey, travelling +north. The weather was now getting warm, when one afternoon about four +o'clock, an elderly negro rode up to the Cerro, mounted on a very +poor-looking old "bayo," or cream-coloured horse. The Indians, who had +been out in the camp, were sitting by the galpon fire, sucking Mate. I +was in the courtyard unsaddling the rosillo, whom I had been riding, +but not far away. I heard a great barking of dogs, "Napoleon's" voice +being loud among them; "Brag" and "Bully" were also doing their best to +increase the noise. I passed out through the small door, and there was +an old man, surrounded by the barking dogs, sitting quietly on his +horse, calling out "Ave Maria," the customary form of salutation, and +waiting for someone to ask him to dismount. This I did, and he enquired +if here was the Cerro del Pichinango, and if I would allow him to put up +in the galpon for the night. As for his horse, he said it was worth very +little, and if let go he did not think it would move far away. He looked +tired, and weary, as did his steed, and said what most he needed was a +real good sleep. He had a bundle with him, tied up in a roll at the back +of his old "recado," a battered black felt hat and a much-dilapidated +summer poncho, while some old "bombachos" and a pair of alpargatas, or +canvas shoes, completed his attire. I told him to make himself +comfortable, and left him to rest as I was just thinking of saddling up +the bay colt we had tamed, and riding down to Marmasola's puesto. I +found his flock quite near it, ready to be shut in for the night. He +himself was at home, and he told me that a soldier who had passed by not +long before had told him there had been an engagement some distance out +beyond Guaycoru, and that the Blancos had been victorious, and had +driven the Reds off in full flight to the north of the Sierras de Mal +Abrigo, and so on towards the province of San Jose. How far this was +really true, and whether it was an affair of much importance he did not +know. He thought, however we should all do well to be on the alert, and +promised to send me up word should he hear any further news. Everything +seemed quiet as I rode back: the epidemia among the cattle was now dying +out, and there was only an isolated case now and then, and I was +thankful to think we had been able to get through the trouble so easily. + +My arm by this time had become less inflamed, and much less painful, so +I thought it better to go on with the treatment for a few days longer +than the "curandera" had suggested. When I saw the negro again next +morning he told me he had slept well, and felt all the better for it. He +told me he had passed through a rough time with General Lopez Jordan up +in Paraguay during the war between that country and Brazil. Having +drifted down into Uruguay, he found himself with hardly any money, and +no friends. Had it not been time of revolution, he did not doubt but +that he could easily have got work. He said his nerves had been +completely shattered, and what he wanted was a feeling of security and a +little rest. He asked me if I would allow him to stay on a bit at the +Cerro, as he liked the look of the place, for you had a good view all +round, and could see anyone who might be coming. He said if I would +permit him to stay he would be glad to do anything he could to make +himself useful. I thereupon asked him if he would act as cook. "Pero con +mucho gusto," "But with great pleasure," he replied. When I next saw Don +Frederico he said I had better arrange with the negro, whose name was +Correo, to do the cooking, and such housework as had to be done. Vicente +could then come back to him, as he needed him rather badly. He also told +me I had better take a little boy about twelve years old, a grandson of +the old Indian, Feliciano, to help to look after the southdowns, and to +look up horses, as otherwise I should find myself short-handed. He was a +funny little person, with a pair of sharp-looking black eyes. His father +was said to have been killed in a quarrel during the war, and although, +of course, a relative of Justiniano, he had every appearance of mixed +blood. Correo seemed very pleased at the prospect of staying on at the +Cerro, and settled down quite comfortably. He kept the rooms clean and +tidy, and could cook anything that was required. For the next ten days +or so we had sheep-working on hand, and I was kept pretty busy; and we +had the regular para rodeo of the cattle on Saturday as usual, which was +now quite easy to manage. + +A few days later, I started to ride over to an estancia belonging to a +Mr. Trafford, which lay beyond the town of Colla, well on towards +Colonia. My object was to see some rams we needed for the Fine Flock, +and which Don Frederico had heard were for sale there. I rode a dark +chestnut horse, which had been left tired and almost done up by +soldiers, but had now recovered. I preferred taking him to a horse of +our own mark, as I thought it quite possible I might have to pass +through the Blanco lines. Should this be so and they took the chestnut +they would probably give me another in exchange which would do to bring +me home. I was up early and in the saddle just after sunrise. It was a +nice morning, and the chestnut was in good spirits, and went along +smoothly and easily. When I reached Colla I found the place full of +troops, so did not delay, but rode straight on and beyond, being asked +as I passed the Police Station who I was, and where I was going. No one +interfered with me. I stayed that night and over the next day with Mr. +Trafford, who was very kind and hospitable. He had no one with him when +I arrived, for his daughter, not yet grown up, was away at school in +Buenos Aires. His house was comfortable, well-built, and well-arranged, +with a very wide verandah on one side of it. He saw me ride up, and came +forward to welcome me, a thin, tall man, with a somewhat serious +expression, which made him look older than he really was. He kept up the +English custom of having tea in the afternoon about four o'clock, with +bread and butter, cakes, jam, etc., which to me were quite a luxury. +After partaking of this, I had a look over the rams, which were then in +a large paddock not far from the house. They were a nice lot, well cared +for, and in good condition, and on hearing the price I came to the +conclusion they would be just about what Don Frederico required. So I +arranged provisionally to buy twenty of them, and to pick out the ones +we would have in the morning; this arrangement being subject to Don +Frederico's approval. I further proposed he should write to Mr. Trafford +immediately after my return, and so complete the purchase, and then we +could send over to fetch them, as might seem convenient. The following +day I much enjoyed as we rode over the estancia, and inspected both the +sheep and cattle, for, as a matter of fact, Mr. Trafford had, for that +time, some exceptionally good stock. He took great interest in his +garden, which appeared well-stocked with both flowers and vegetables, +and his numerous fruit trees were evidently a source of great pleasure +to him. Next morning, after coffee, I saddled up the chestnut and +started for home. On my way back I passed close to a place where a +Spaniard, who was really a "basco," was driving a good sized flock of +sheep up towards his house. A nice-looking sheep-dog, which looked well +bred, was helping him very efficiently. I pulled up for a while to give +my horse a rest, and I took a great fancy to the dog, for I liked the +way he went about his work. We were getting a bit short-handed, and I +thought a dog like this one would be useful, so I made his owner a bid +for him, just in case he might care to part with him. Rather to my +surprise, the man said he would not mind selling him, but only because +he contemplated leaving where he was to go and live in a town, where the +dog would be no use to him. The only condition he made was that I would +be kind to him and treat him well. He was black and light tan in colour, +and the true sheep-dog breed, with a nice head and intelligent eyes. The +only fault I could see in him was he had rather too heavy a coat for +work in hot weather. His name was Ramonou. He did not at all like being +taken away from his home by a stranger, and I was obliged to lead him +with a thin thong of hide, fastened to his collar, which I held in my +hand. Fortunately the chestnut was very quiet and tractable, but having +the dog with me naturally delayed my progress, so that it was late when +I reached home. However, there was a moon which shone brightly, so it +did not much matter. "Napoleon," as usual, was glad to see me back. +Nothing had happened during my absence, and Correo soon got me some +supper, and seemed quite contented and happy. Next morning "Ramonou" +seemed none the worse for his journey. I had tied him up for the night +and given him some food, and I now let him loose in the courtyard, just +to stretch his legs. "Napoleon" was not at all quarrelsome, and the two +dogs happily took to each other, and soon became great friends. I had +the bay horse caught up, and started down to La Concordia, as I wished +to lose no time in letting Don Frederico know what I had arranged about +the rams. He was perfectly satisfied, and said he would at once write to +Mr. Trafford. He told me he had heard that old Robinson was lying very +ill over at the stonemason's, from the effect of too much Canya, and he +went so far as to say he was doubtful if he would recover. "You know we +should not like him to die over there," he said; "after being so many +years at the Cerro, we had come to look upon him as almost part of the +place!" "Supposing I send Steff, the Swiss peon, with a light cart to +be at Anjel's puesto, say at eleven o'clock to-morrow morning. You might +then send Juan and Justiniano to meet him there at that time, and they +could all three go on together to the other side of the Pichinango. If +there is plenty of 'paja' in the cart and he is well wrapped up, I do +not see why he should not travel all right." So it was arranged; and I +promised to see that the Indians were at the place appointed at the hour +named. As a matter of fact, they both rather liked old Robinson, and +would be sorry for him being so ill, and I felt sure they would do their +best to bring him back with as little suffering as possible. I then rode +back to the Cerro, round by Anjel's puesto. + +When the cart arrived at the Cerro with the poor old man lying full +length in it, I saw at once that he was very ill. We got him out of the +cart and into the kitchen, where we laid him down in front of the fire +and started rubbing his hands and feet, for he really seemed in all but +a comatose condition. After a while he somewhat recovered, and I got him +to swallow two or three spoonfuls of mutton broth made strong and quite +plain. Towards evening he seemed better, and said he wished us to get +him up into his bedroom above the kitchen. He could not speak above a +whisper, but I understood him to say he felt cold, and would rather be +in his own room above the kitchen stove than in one of the larger rooms +on the ground floor. For two or three days he seemed to mend, and then +one afternoon he sank into an unconscious state, and I knew it would not +be long before all was over. He could take nothing whatever, but he +lasted through the night, and passed peacefully away about eleven +o'clock next morning. I sent down at once to tell Don Frederico, and he +sent me word he would have a shell coffin sent up as soon as possible. +During the afternoon we got the remains down from the bedroom and laid +them on a "quatre," or wooden camp bedstead, in the last room but one at +the far end of the house, which had a door in it, opening into the +courtyard, covering the body over with a white sheet. Late in the +evening the wooden shell arrived, and we reverently laid him in it. I +put a couple of screws in half way down, just to hold on the lid for the +time being. The Indians said they would light a candle and watch by the +coffin, and Correo said he would like to take a turn also. It was a fine +clear night, calm and still, with the moon now in its second quarter, +and about nine o'clock I went to bed. I was awakened some three hours +later by a loud knocking at my door. I jumped up, hastily putting on +some clothes, and took up my revolver, which was lying by my bedside. +When I opened my door, leading into the covered archway, there was +Correo, his face an ashy grey colour, gesticulating violently outside, +and begging me to come at once to the room where we had placed the +coffin. He said the Indians who had been on guard were terribly +frightened, because while they were on watch the ghost of the "finado," +or dead man, had appeared, and was then to be seen passing like a shadow +up and down the room. As I went out into the courtyard "Napoleon" came +and put his cold nose in my hand, and the rosillo who was shut in there +for the night, gave a little neigh. I went to the door, opened it, and +entered the room, followed by the negro, who was almost in tears. Of +course, there was nothing, and I showed him the two screws half way down +in the lid, exactly as we had left them. Meanwhile the Indians had fled +and hid themselves in the galpon; the candle they had left lighted was +flickering down in its socket, and the room was in semi-darkness. I with +difficulty persuaded Correo to go to his bed and have a sleep, for he +was much upset, and trembling all over, but at last I succeeded. I +thereupon locked the door of the room, taking the key with me, and +returned to my bed for the rest of the night, which passed without +further disturbance of any kind. The next morning, but one, Steff drove +up in his cart with the coffin, into which we silently placed the +remains, and he started at once to convey it to the cemetery in the +Swiss Colony. At the same time I rode down to La Concordia to advise Don +Frederico that it was on its way to its last resting place. When I got +there I unsaddled my horse and tied him up under the euremada before +going inside the house. A little later I was sitting in the dining room +talking to Jennings, when Don Frederico came hurriedly in. "Good +gracious!" he said, "there is Steff crossing the rincon towards the Pass +of the Rosario standing up in the cart and trotting ever so fast. Do go +down and stop him, and tell him only to go at a foot pace." A "moro +rosillo" (blue roan horse) was standing ready saddled outside. I jumped +up on him and went down the high bank behind the house somewhat faster +than he liked. He started bucking as he got nearly to the bottom, and +what with being taken unprepared and only having my right hand on the +reins, I narrowly escaped what might have been a nasty fall; but I was +able to stop the cart before it crossed the pass. I returned to the +house, and shortly afterwards Don Frederico started to go to the +cemetery in the Swiss Colony, in order to attend the funeral, while I +rode up to the Cerro, as some sheep-working was going on there I wanted +to see after. Ramonou came and helped, and soon proved himself useful in +getting the sheep through the yards. We were now in the first week of +October, and as work of this kind would be pretty constant throughout +the month it seemed as if he had arrived on the scene just about the +right time. One morning I was busy superintending this work; the weather +was becoming hot, and progress somewhat slow. Before going to breakfast, +I went to my room to wash my hands; my arm had now got much better, the +inflammation and swelling having gone. I had turned up my shirt sleeve, +and was rubbing the soap gently between my hands, when a thistle thorn +half an inch long suddenly popped out of my arm, somewhat in the same +way as a cork flies out of a bottle, and fell into the soapy water. By +its appearance it should have been a larger thorn, so that part must +have broken off when it entered the arm. Anyway, I was only too glad to +be rid of it, for it might easily have caused me more trouble than it +had done, and I felt thankful to the "curandera" for the advice she had +given me. The thorns of the big thistle are very sharp and strong, so +much so that when riding through them I have known a thorn pierce right +through a long leather riding boot. + +The spring had so far been a dry one, and we were looking forward to +soon beginning the shearing, partly because the season was an early one, +and also on account of the difficulty of getting shearers. Soldiers were +everywhere more or less on the move, and on an estancia this is always a +hindrance to work of every kind. Saturday came round again with its +"para rodeo" of the cattle, and on Monday morning, between ten and +eleven o'clock, thirty soldiers arrived asking for food and horses. They +were travelling north to join the main army. I had a sheep killed for +them, as they said they were hungry, and gave them some farinha and +yerba, and I ordered our horses to be got up into the corral; it was, in +fact, the only thing to do. They ended by taking thirteen horses, six of +our own mark, including the brown colt we had tamed, and seven which had +been left with us by soldiers, among them the chestnut I had ridden +over to Mr. Trafford's estancia. They left us five, apparently tired +out, and weary, and all in poor condition. + +I had the rosillo saddled; indeed, I now had him up very constantly, +letting him out to feed at night. Our own horses were gradually +disappearing, and I saw it would not be long before we ran short of +them. We were now busy getting ready for shearing, and I had to go round +to all the native neighbours and find out how many and when they would +be likely to come. This year, owing to the scarcity of outside people, +it seemed probable that more of our own people would have to shear than +usual. Meanwhile, Don Frederico was doing all he could in the Swiss +Colony, although as a rule the colonists were not great shearers, for at +that particular time their own farms often needed attention. I had the +stone walls of the sheepyards attended to, and saw to the gates, and +also that the doors and belongings of the galpon were all in proper +order. I also had an ample supply of wood brought up from the Monte, the +necessary provisions had to be got ready as well as numerous other +articles, all of which were sure to be wanted at such a busy time. On +November 1st a small gang of nine shearers arrived. They had been +previously engaged, and commenced work on the following day. Meantime, +Jennings duly turned up at the Cerro to take charge inside the galpon, +while I looked after matters outside, and also helped him in my spare +time. It was not long before we found out how useful Ramonou could make +himself. He helped to get the sheep through the yards, and also to hurry +a flock from one of the puestos, which otherwise would have come too +slowly, and so kept the shearers waiting for sheep. The weather favoured +us--for the month proved warm and exceptionally dry, so work got on +faster than it could otherwise have done. Soldiers called up half a +dozen at a time, but no large number came to trouble us, for which we +were very thankful. Pedrito now kept an eye on the southdowns, and also +got up the horses, for both old Juan and Justiniano took a turn at +shearing, although neither of them were very efficient. + +Work progressed as the days passed, and time went on, so that by the end +of the first week in December, we made a finish, and the gang of +shearers having received their money, at length took their departure. No +sooner was shearing over than we had to see about marking the calves. +This should have been done earlier, but perhaps owing to the same causes +which had produced the epidemia the cattle this spring had been in +rather poor condition, and the calves generally both younger and weaker +than usual. The third week in December began on a Wednesday, and Don +Frederico fixed that day for the marking. I went round to let our native +neighbours know, and asked them all to come and help. Fortunately, the +morning was fine, and we were all on the move at the Cerro even earlier +than usual. I rode a black horse with a white star and two white hind +feet. Pedrito was quite proud of himself, mounted on a small bay which +had been left tired by soldiers, but had now recovered. He was a good +rider, inherited no doubt from his Indian ancestry, and he never pulled +his horse's mouth about more than was necessary. As it happened, +although we were fewer horsemen than usual, the cattle came up well, and +we left them to go round and round on the rodeo while Don Frederico and +Jennings came up to the Cerro to have some coffee which Correo had ready +for us. I let go the black horse and saddled up the rosillo, and on +returning to the rodeo was pleased to find that several of our native +neighbours had arrived. With the aid of a point of tame cattle to lead +them, we got the herd shut up in the manga, and I felt relieved to +think that my responsibility was now over. Two large fires were lit, and +the brands heated, and then two of our native neighbours rode in among +the cattle to lasso and bring out the calves. And so the work +progressed, until about eleven o'clock a halt was made for breakfast. +Seeing we depended so much upon the help of our native neighbours, Don +Frederico said we had better regale them with what was known as "Carne +con cuiro," or beef roasted in the hide. So a young cow had been killed +and cut up in a much shorter time than the uninitiated would deem +possible, and two big roasts with the hide on them were already cooking +before the fires. This above everything is a delicacy the South American +native dearly loves, and Pedrito's face was a picture when he learnt +what was going to happen. Canya, farinha, salt, and yerba were served +out, and the company were all enjoying their repast when a horseman +appeared approaching, perhaps two hundred and fifty yards away. As he +got nearer I saw he was riding a colt, known as a "redamon," _i.e._, +only about half tamed, with a piece of hide tied round its lower jaw, +instead of a bit, and as he rode on towards us the animal, a beautiful +"rosillo," answering the slightest touch of the rider's hand on the +rein, he was indeed a sight to see. His long black hair well oiled and +curling beneath a worn and battered old felt hat, fell almost down to +his shoulders. Over a shirt anything but clean was a dilapidated old +summer "poncho," with a rag of a white handkerchief tied loosely round +his neck. An old worn coloured "cheripa," over a pair of cotton drawers, +covered his waist and the upper part of his legs, and below were a pair +of potro boots, made of the skin of a wild mare, from which the hair had +been removed; mounted with a pair of large iron spurs, completed his +footgear. As he rode among the crowd, he raised his hat above his head +with a "Buen dia Senores" (Good-day, gentlemen) as he sat on his horse +like a statue waiting to be invited to dismount. Then came a cry from +the assembled company, "Cypriano caramba! Cypriano!" but the tribute was +certainly not to his wealth, nor indeed, to his character, for he was a +well-known horse stealer, as well as a famous "domador," or horse-tamer, +but rather a spontaneous and unpremeditated recognition of his wonderful +horsemanship. This touched the hearts of the "Gauchos" as nothing else +could have done. In spite of his rags and his dirt and his poverty, he +was to them a true aristocrat, rising for the moment head and shoulders +above his fellows; for such, indeed, at that time, was the way and +custom and manner of the "Pampas." + +Breakfast being finished, work was resumed. By three o'clock the marking +was over, and the herd of cattle let go, when, owing to the times +through which we were living, the company at once dispersed. The weather +continued hot and dry right into the New Year, when I found the water in +the alhibi, or reservoir in the courtyard was becoming exhausted. As I +have previously stated, all our water came from collecting the rainfall +on the roof, whence it passed through pipes into the "alhibi." Usually +the supply was sufficient, but probably the water had been used in +excess and wasted during the shearing, and as no rain had fallen now for +some weeks, it was easy to account for the shortage I wished to preserve +what there was for the house, and indoor use; so we caught up an old +petiso called Waddle, and Justiniano mounted him and made fast his lasso +to the forked branch of a tree with a barrel fixed on its top, and +started for the Canyada Grande to fetch water. He did not go very fast, +for Waddle had seen much of life, and had an enlarged knee; but he had +done the job before, and he did not mind. I daresay, too, he knew by +experience it was not likely to last very long. So with the daily barrel +brought up each morning, we managed to get along quite comfortably. As +to the stock, they always had plenty of water, with the river Rosario on +one side and the river Pichinango on the other, not to speak of the +Canyada Grande, which was hardly ever dry; nor, indeed, had they to go +any distance to drink. Of course the "seca" had its effect on the +pasture, and the grass everywhere got very dry. Where, however, the camp +was not overstocked, and there was good water, the animals could pass +through time of drought without coming to any harm. One morning Pedrito, +who had been out on an old horse looking after the southdowns, came back +and said he had seen an ostrich nest with several eggs in it, which he +thought were still quite good; so I sent Juan with him to fetch them. +There were seven, and they turned out to be but recently laid. The +female bird will lay her eggs out in the open, choosing a place where +the grass is long and dry, and well exposed to the sun. The yolk is +somewhat rich, both in taste and colour; but when fried in a frying pan +or made into an omelette is excellent eating. One of his other pastimes +was going after partridges also on horseback, holding a long stick in +his hand, at the end of which was fastened a thin running noose. When he +saw a bird lying in the grass, which they were fond of doing during hot +and dry weather, he would ride round and round in a circle, gradually +getting nearer and nearer, until he could drop the noose over the head +of the bird as it lay still, as it often would do for some time. Correo +could cook both the ostrich eggs and partridge very well, and I found +them a pleasant change after a prolonged course of mutton roast and +boiled. During hot weather he often wore a beautiful suit of white +cotton; he had two of these with him, and when he brought in my meal to +the dining room he would occasionally stand behind my chair, in a solemn +manner while I was eating, which certainly looked imposing, for his +black skin shone like ebony, but was at the same time quite unnecessary. +He did not much like talking about his experiences during the war in +Paraguay, which I always realised had given him a pretty severe shock, +for he told me he had passed through villages where not a single man had +been left alive, and where a stranger entering them would find himself +surrounded by only women and children, all of whom were in a state of +semi-starvation, and of abject terror and misery. All the crops and +animals had been destroyed by the troops as they passed, and there was +nothing suitable in the way of food anywhere within reach. I liked the +old man, whom I always found very willing and obliging, and I was glad +to see his health improve, as it certainly did, doubtless owing to the +rest, and quiet, and to freedom for the time being from any care or +anxiety as to where or how he could get a living. + +The New Year came in exceptionally hot; day after day brought continual +sunshine from a blue sky, in which scarcely a cloud could be seen. +Towards mid-day the rays of heat poured down so fiercely, they seemed as +if they would scorch the very tussock grass itself. The rocks behind the +house fairly glistened and shimmered in the noon-tide glare, and the +large lizards were very happy, constantly running in and out of their +holes, and indeed had a glorious time. Out in the camp, the ground +itself got warm, and everything dried up. The cattle could be seen here +and there in groups; by this formation they seemed to think they might +escape the burning rays of the sun, and it was in the night and early +morning, as well as late afternoon, that they were able to feed in +comfort. They went gladly enough to the rivers to drink, but they could +not stay long by the woods on account of the number of flies which were +ever ready to pester and torment them, until they hardly knew how to +bear. The sheep, also, could be seen clumping themselves together, each +trying, as it were, to get shade by standing in each other's shadow. + +If the pasturage on the estancia was hard and dry, there was yet plenty +of it, and as there was abundant water I had no fear of anything like +starvation for the stock. During the great heat the "siesta" in the +middle of the day had to be longer than usual, and practically all work +was suspended, except during the early morning and late afternoon. The +rooms, however, were very comfortable during hot weather, for being so +high, and opening one into another, there was always plenty of air, even +when the heavily-barred windows were, according to the Spanish custom, +kept shut during the middle of the day in order to keep out the heat. We +had no garden to suffer, and were thankful for the grateful shade of the +"ombu," and also of the figtrees in the courtyard, so that, except for +the want of water, we had little to complain of during the period of the +"seca." Curiously enough, during the great heat we had no thunderstorm, +the atmosphere remaining perfectly clear and dry. This, however, was +quite unusual. + +One morning, not long after sunrise, two Blanco officers, and about +eighty soldiers rode up to the Cerro. They said they were en route for +Colonia, and had been travelling the greater part of the night, taking +advantage of a nearly full moon. I invited the two officers into the +house to have some coffee, but before accepting, they said what they +wanted were horses, for many of those they had with them were tired, and +it was important they should get on with as little delay as possible. I +asked if the soldiers wanted food, but all they were allowed to do was +to make a couple of fires and suck some Mate, before proceeding on their +journey. As to the horses, there was nothing for it but to get all our +horses up into the corral--they had not long been let go--and let the +soldiers take what they wanted. There were now but few of our own mark +to choose from; the others being horses previously left with us. +However, they took seventeen and left us twelve tired ones, poor in +condition, and not one of them looking as if he was much account. As it +happened, the bay colt we had tamed was with his mother and the +wall-eyed horse I often rode, and old Waddle some distance further away. +So these did not come up with the others, thus the bay colt once more +escaped attention. I had the rosillo tied up and saddled, and Pedrito +was riding the little "mala kara," so he got off, but a very light bay +horse, called an "andador," or pacer, which Justiniano was fond of +riding, was one of the first chosen by the soldiers. The officers told +me they were going to join a large division of the Blanco army, now in +the province of Colonia, which was thought likely to be moving in our +direction, and it was supposed General Aparicio himself was coming down +shortly just to see how things were going. The officers were quite +civil, but when they were gone, and I had time to think matters over, I +realised that this hardly compensated for the fact that we had now +hardly any horses of our own mark left to us. Such, indeed, was so often +the fortune of those whose business it was in "the old days" to try and +carry on an estancia during time of revolution. + +On January the twentieth, we had three or four very short and slight +showers, and on the day following, heavy rain fell and continued without +intermission for twenty-four hours. The "seca" had now broken up, the +"alhibi" was more than half full, and we had no further trouble in +regard to water. Soon after two o'clock on the last afternoon in the +month, a party of soldiers rode up, and one of them, who appeared to be +their leader, told me I was to go with them to where a division of the +Blanco army was encamped, some two and a half leagues to the south-east +of the Cerro. As they seemed to attach importance to the request, I did +not care to quite refuse or indeed argue the point as to whether I +should go or not. Moreover, I thought it would be an experience, and +possibly somewhat of an adventure. As it happened, I had caught up the +rosillo a short time before, intending to take a turn round the camp. I +told them I would be ready in a quarter of an hour, saddled him up, +strapped the belt of my revolver round my waist, slipped a light summer +poncho over my head, and we made a start forthwith. Meanwhile, the +Indians had hid themselves in the galpon, and I bid adieu to Correo, who +looked greatly perturbed when he saw me depart. We travelled rapidly +along, for something over an hour, and then, as I looked ahead, I saw an +interesting scene spread out before me. In a large "rincon," at the back +of which was a stream, lightly bordered by trees, were quite a large +number of soldiers. Horses were either feeding loose or tethered +everywhere. The men were scattered about in every sort of attitude and +position, mostly resting and smoking, and some enjoying a game of cards, +while others were chatting and talking together, and apparently enjoying +themselves. Meanwhile, fires had been lighted in front of which large +joints of meat were already roasting. A little to the right, half a +dozen "Gauchos" were busy giving some colts they had got hold of a +gallop, which, from their appearance, had only been recently caught up. +Behind all these, on slightly rising ground, a group of officers were +gathered. One of these was seated on some rugs and saddle gear, which +had been piled up for the purpose, and he was at the time occupied in +sucking Mate through a silver "bombilla," or tube. He was a remarkable +looking man, somewhat above middle height, with rather broad shoulders, +over which his long hair hung down in a slight curl at the back, swarthy +in complexion, with a very keen-looking pair of black eyes. I realised +at once that I was in the presence of no less a personage than General +Aparicio himself. Meanwhile, he invited me to dismount, and asked me who +I was, and where I had come from, and what had brought me there. When I +told him, he said, "This ought not to have happened! There must have +been some mistake!" Then he continued, "Siente se Senor," "Sit down, +Sir." "Vamos a tomar un matecito," "Let us drink a little Mate." In the +meantime, a soldier was holding my horse, and behind where we were +sitting, two lances were stuck in the ground, from which the white +banner was flying. The General's sharp eyes caught my horse. "That +little rosillo seems made of some good stuff," he said. "You had better +take good care of him." I told him he had the mark of the Estancia +Pichinango, and was about the only one we had left. "Pero que quiere mi +amigo? Es tiempo de guerra." ("But what could you wish, my friend? It is +time of war,") he replied, with a laugh. The General then told me that a +good many matreros (deserters from the army) and bad characters, were +said to be hiding in the woods our way, and that he would send a couple +of soldiers with me when I went back, who could also stay at the Cerro +for a time, in case I should find myself in any trouble. Thereupon I +thanked him, and about half an hour later made my adieux. As I left the +camp the two soldiers rode in front of me, each carrying his lance, +with the white banner flying, while I followed immediately behind. Upon +reaching the Cerro, which we did just after sundown, I got quite a +reception from Correo and the Indians, in which "Napoleon" and +"Ramonou," also "Brag" and "Bully," took part, in fact, they all +appeared quite relieved, and very pleased to see me back again. On the +next morning, I rode down to La Concordia to see Don Frederico. He was +greatly amused when I told him of my little expedition, and at once +asked me if I thought the Blancos were likely to be coming our way. I +told him I thought not, as from what I had gathered their intention was +to make straight for Colonia across country, as it were, without +touching the town of Colla, in which case they would not be likely to +come near the Pichinango. He further said the two soldiers who had come +back with me would be a help rather than a hindrance, for he had been +wondering how we could manage to get the horses all gathered up into the +"manga" this year, and the foals marked, seeing there was hardly any +outside person available. He said that now I had the two soldiers, who +doubtless understood camp work, at disposal, he would arrange a day to +gather up the horses, with as little delay as possible, and let me know. +I could then inform our native neighbours, and possibly succeed in +getting a certain amount of help. I rode back by Marmasola's puesto, and +told him if he knew of anyone likely to be of any use, to be sure and +let me know. That same evening, a little before sundown, a young +Englishman, Mr. Frank Turnor, arrived, with three horses and a peon. He +was "Major Domo" on a large English estancia up the country, and he +asked if we could put him up for the night. This I was delighted to do, +and we had the horses collared and sent out to feed. He was a +fine-looking young man, with broad shoulders, and a tall, upright +figure. We were sitting smoking after dinner, when the conversation +turned upon "matreros," men wanted by the police, hiding in the woods, +whereupon he told me the following story. He said where he was living +they had large woods bordering the river, in which "matreros" would come +and stay for a time, living on the estancia cattle, and then move off +again to other secure places, where the police could not catch them. +They were a desperate lot, and murdered one of the shepherds of the +place because he mended up the fence after they had cut the wires, so as +to pass backwards and forwards, which was a cause of annoyance to them. +He said it was his business, together with two men, to search the woods +every Saturday to see if they were there, as they always left some trace +or other, such as the remains of food or tracks of horses. Both he and +his men always carried rifles, but he was never very keen about finding +the thieves, as they were known to be very dangerous characters. A new +Chief of Police had come, whose ambition was to catch these men. Knowing +the outlaws were in the woods, he thereupon notified him, and the police +officer appeared early one Sunday morning with ten men, all fully armed, +when he at once went with him to show more or less where the matreros +were to be found. On the way they met a half Indian man called the Negro +Largo, who in peace time was allowed three sheep a week to keep him from +stealing, and in time of revolution forty dollars a month to save the +horses; as the Indian then had some thirty men under his command. He +went on to say that as he and the Negro Largo knew the woods, they were +asked to go quietly ahead, so as to try and find the encampment, the +police following. + +At last some horses were seen tied out near some little "talditos," or +coverings made of branches, but all was quiet; it was very hot, and the +thieves were sleeping. He and the Negro Largo then returned to the +police, without disturbing the sleepers. Turnor wanted the "comisario" +to charge right up on horseback, but being an infantry officer, he +preferred to do so on foot. So after approaching a little nearer he +ordered his men to dismount and form line, and himself heading them with +drawn sword, charged up to the place where the horses were tied. Owing, +however, to the noise caused by dismounting, etc., the outlaws, hearing +what was going on, made a bolt into the thick wood, so that only the +horses, saddles, etc., were captured. He further mentioned that he and +the Negro Largo were not in the charge, but behind a tree watching. + +The police officer was intensely proud of his achievement, and at once +ordered one of the best looking horses to be saddled up for him. When he +mounted, however, the horse reared, and coming over backwards, gave him +a bad fall, much to the general amusement. + +Turnor said that this was his only encounter with the "matreros," but +that some time after two of the men with rifles who were revising the +woods as usual came right upon the outlaws over a bank, with their +horses saddled. Instead of trying to escape they at once mounted and +attacked them, firing their pistols, when they on their part being taken +by surprise, made a bolt of it, and being better mounted succeeded in +getting safely away. Eventually all the outlaws were captured and put in +prison. + +It was getting late when we turned in, but as Turnor wished to make an +early start on the morrow, I had already told Correo to get some coffee +the first thing. Fortunately, he was always an early riser. The morning +was fine, and the sun had but lately risen, when my visitor and his man +mounted their horses and started on their way, the latter leading the +spare horse, so that either could change to it as they went along. + +During the afternoon Margarito arrived with a note to say that we were +to have a "para rodeo" of the cattle on Saturday as usual, and a general +gathering up of the horses on the Wednesday following. I therefore lost +no time in advising our native neighbours, and getting them to come and +help us. To make this doubly sure I rode next morning to pay a visit to +two or three of the principal ones in person. Both the soldiers +accompanied me with their lances, and the Blanco device on their hats +and the white banner flying. When I arrived at the first native house I +saw at once that I was about to make an impression. I thought the dogs +barked if anything louder than usual as we sat on our horses calling out +"Ave Maria," the usual form of salutation. For the moment no one +appeared, but I saw signs of first one and then another woman or child +peeping out through a window and so on. Then the front door was opened, +and the master of the house appeared bare-headed, and with a bow +desiring me to dismount. Whereupon I did so, and went into the house, +the two soldiers meanwhile holding my horse outside. I delivered my +message, and we discussed the war, and I was invited to have some +refreshment, which I declined. When I thought sufficient time had +elapsed I got up to leave, being accompanied outside by apparently the +whole family. I then walked solemnly to my horse, mounted and signed to +the two soldiers to move on, and altogether I flattered myself that I +made a very dignified departure. The same mode of procedure took place +at two other houses, each with the same satisfactory result. The fact +was, we were getting very short of horses in our neighbourhood, and as +hardly any of these people, friendly as they might appear on the +surface, would have at all objected to coming inside our camp and +picking up and carrying off any stray horse which, having been left +there, would otherwise have proved useful to us, I thought it a good +opportunity to let them know that, up at the Cerro I was in a position +of some authority, and therefore not to be trifled with. On the Saturday +the two soldiers went with us to the "para rodeo" of the cattle; +"Napoleon" enjoyed himself greatly, and all went well. + +Wednesday morning was fine, and we were all early on the move. I rode +the rosillo, who was in excellent form, while the two soldiers and the +Indians were mounted on horses which had been left by passing soldiers. +As we got the troop up towards the "rodeo" a portion of them tried their +utmost to break back, but the rosillo was quite equal to the occasion; +he was indeed a good little horse, and his speed and energy soon +succeeded in rounding them up and forcing them to rejoin the others, so +that we managed to get them all shut up in the stone "manga" with less +difficulty than I had expected. Our native neighbours duly turned up, +fires were lighted, and we were able to mark quite a fair number of +foals. We also picked out about a dozen stray riding horses from among +the troop, which had probably been left by soldiers as they passed +along. These we divided between the Cerro and La Concordia, attaching +them to the tropillas, in order that so long as they remained to us they +might be made useful, and earn their living for the time being. Don +Frederico was mounted on his rosillo allazan (chestnut roan), otherwise +known as his war-horse; but Jennings no longer rode his usual dark grey, +for it had been taken by soldiers about a month previously, so he was +compelled to bestride a rather ancient-looking bay horse, which was also +in but poor condition, instead. + +At the beginning of March the two soldiers were recalled to Colla. When +they bid us adieu they both thanked me for the pleasant time at the +Cerro, and when they departed took with them our good wishes. Towards +the end of the month, Charles Bent turned up quite unexpectedly. His +relatives outside had been unfortunate, and had lost a lot of stock, +both sheep and cattle, during the war, and his idea was to make his way +to Monte Video later on, for he seemed to have a hope that the war would +soon be over. He had lost his race-horse not very long after the +disastrous affair at the Cerro, now getting on for a year and a half +ago, and he rode up on an old "Bayo Negro," or dark cream, with a black +mane and tail, which had been left by soldiers, and seemed to be of very +little account. I was glad to see him again, for I always liked him. +Moreover, he did not look very well; he was never really strong, so I +asked him to stay on a bit at the Cerro, as we had ample room, and I +knew he would be glad to help in any work which had to be done. With the +exception of the rosillo, we were entirely dependent upon what I might +call outside horses, for we had now scarcely one of our own mark left. +The bay colt old Juan had tamed, was still with us, but he had managed +to sprain his shoulder rather badly, so was for the time being of no +use. + +We had a room at the Cerro with a strong brick floor, which had at one +time been used for stores, and I had this arranged for the rosillo, so +that in case of necessity he could be shut up there at night. Generally, +when the weather was fine, I could have him tied up in the courtyard, +but when the nights got cold and he was unable to feed there, I knew it +would be difficult to keep him in good condition. As it turned out, I +found that the shelter from wind and rain, together with a small but +regular allowance of maize, greatly contributed to his welfare. When I +next saw Don Frederico I spoke to him about Charles Bent, and he said +he should be very glad for him to stay on at the Cerro for he knew he +would always willingly lend a hand at any work which might be going. He +said he thought he would be much better there than if he were to go into +Monte Video at present, as it was generally believed by those who knew, +that before very long the Blancos intended to try and besiege the city, +and if they should do so would probably succeed. During the next three +weeks we had a good deal of sheep-working on hand, as the flocks from +the puestos were being passed through the sheepyards, both at the Cerro +and at La Concordia. Ramonou was really a great help; he was obedient +and good at his work, and gave satisfaction all round. Bent had left his +sheep dog, "Bob," with his relations. He told me it was some time since +he had heard of Royd, but he believed he had sustained many losses with +his stock at his friend's place near San Jose, and that he either had +sailed or was about to sail for England. At this I was not surprised, +for he never seemed to me well suited to camp life. He was naturally +somewhat despondent, and there was no denying he had been very hard hit +at the Sierras de Mal Abrigo. + +Correo seemed now to have recovered his health and spirits, and to enjoy +preparing our simple menu. He was always willing and attentive; indeed, +since his arrival at the Cerro, everything inside the house had gone on +quite comfortably. + +Some three weeks passed and nothing happened except the ordinary routine +of estancia work. During this time either Bent or I had been accustomed +to go up on to the flat (azotea) roof once or twice daily with the +glass, so as to have a good look round. The Cerro stood high, so that +from its roof we could overlook the greater part of the estancia. This +was a distinct advantage in times like the present, for it not only let +us know anything that might be going on among the stock, but also +allowed us time to prepare beforehand for any soldiers who might ride up +to the house with the intention of causing us trouble. One afternoon +Bent and I were up on the "azotea" together, having a look round with +the glass. It was just about two-thirty when suddenly we saw some twenty +soldiers coming our way from the East, at an angle which would make them +pass to the front of the Cerro, about half a mile distant. We could, +moreover, see they were Colorados, for the red banner was clearly flying +from their lances. At the same time a troop of Blancos appeared, coming +up from the Pass of the Pichinango, so that the two parties came into +collision just about the place where Tio Benigno's deserted puesto still +stood. We could see it all perfectly. They galloped furiously one toward +the other two or three times, but seemed always to manage to avoid close +contact. They fired their guns and revolvers, some of the shots at any +rate being hurriedly let off into the air. Then the Reds made a bolt, +and thereupon the Blancos, seeing this, galloped furiously after them, +with their lances. One of the Reds was wounded by a shot, for we saw his +arm hang useless by his side as he rode away. Another got a lance wound +in his back, which was apparently more serious, as he fell from his +horse after the Reds got a little further away, and had to be picked up +by his comrades. So the Blancos remained masters of the situation, and +after the Colorados had disappeared, they passed the Cerro at a gallop, +about a quarter of a mile distant, following a northerly direction, as +if they were making for Guaycoru, and we were all very glad to see both +lots clear out. Some ten days later we were both up on the "azotea," +about an hour before sundown. After taking a look round, I said to Bent, +"Do you see that point of cattle feeding almost at the same place where +the Blancos and Colorados met? And can you see a dark lump on the +ground, a little way removed, just on the far side of them? If I am not +mistaken that is a matrero, out 'bombiando.' You know what that means, +'looking for and marking down a young heifer, so that he and his +companions can come and kill it at night,' and there will be a moon +to-night up to twelve o'clock, you know!" "I believe you are right," +replied Bent. "Have a look through the glass. I fancy you will find that +animal standing alone a little further away to be a horse saddled, and +he is probably hobbled as well." Taking the telescope, I soon saw this +to be the case. "I will give that fellow a bit of a fright," I said, at +once going down into the courtyard, where I had the rosillo ready +saddled. It took but a moment to lead him out through the small door, +jump on his back, and gallop off. I had not got more than half way, when +the matrero, who must have seen me coming, ran to his horse, mounted, +and made off towards the woods of the Pichinango as quickly as he could. +The rosillo was going strong, and I should certainly have overtaken him, +when an unfortunate thing happened. The ground was very rough and +uneven, with numerous pieces of pointed rock rising up above it in every +direction. The horse unluckily caught his off fore foot on one of these, +and as he was going fast, it tripped him up, and he came down a regular +cropper, rolling right over. I, of course, came down with him, having my +revolver tightly held in my right hand, fully loaded, the trigger at +half cock. When I fell it somehow got jammed between me and the hard +ground, with the end of the barrel against my chest, slightly bruising +the flesh. Fortunately, it did not explode! It was a Colt's muzzle +loader, and I felt grateful to them for its reliability and their +excellent workmanship. I remounted, and continued the chase, but the +delay gave the man too much of a lead, and I only arrived in time to see +him enter the woods and disappear. Bent seemed quite glad to see me +return without any further mishap, and when I explained to him how I +came to have the tumble, which he had been able to see with the +telescope from the house, he remarked, "That revolver of yours is indeed +worth more than anything it may have cost, old man!" This pleased me, +for as a matter of fact, I had bought it second-hand, when I was at the +Sierras de Mal Abrigo, upon its eminent firm of maker's reputation, +knowing otherwise but little about it. Bent and I then got up the +"tamberos" to their rodeo. They were now well in hand, and went up +easily. As we returned, Justiniano was bringing up the southdowns, to +shut them in for the night; I looked them over, and saw them safely +inside their yard. Correo was always pretty punctual with supper when we +were at home, for he was glad when work was over and he could retire to +rest. Afterwards we had a quiet talk and a smoke, and both went early to +bed. + +A week later we were both on the "azotea" about four o'clock in the +afternoon. A Mr. Fenton, who had formerly stayed a good deal at the +Cerro, had left his "moro," or blue-grey horse behind him when he went +away, attached to one of the tropillas. The horse was not there when I +came, having detached himself, and joined up with the "saino manada," or +troop of mares and foals. We had not been looking round long when I +noticed a horse coming at pretty nearly full speed in the direction of +the Cerro, with two soldiers in full pursuit. "I believe it is Fenton's +'moro,'" I said to Bent, "and what is more those two fellows are going +to have him." Just then the "moro" passed, some three hundred yards +distant, in front of the house. One soldier flung his "boleadores," but +as it happened they fell short. The second thereupon immediately +increased his speed, and flung his with such accuracy that they twisted +themselves round the "moro's" hind legs, and soon brought him to a +standstill. The soldiers then slipped a halter over his head, loosed the +"boleadores" from his hind legs, and led him off with them, riding in +the direction of the Pichinango Pass. + +The "boleadores," or "bolas," as they are often called, are a very +effective weapon in the hands of a skilled horseman who is well mounted. +They are chiefly used to capture horses and wild mares in the open camp, +and are a very important part of a "Gaucho's" equipment. They are made +of twisted strands of raw horse-hide. There are three thongs united +together at a common centre, each about a yard in length. At the other +end of each thong is a leaden ball, covered with hide. The horseman +holds one ball in his right hand while he swings the two others quickly +round his head. He then lets go the ball he had in his hand, so that the +three go whirling swiftly forward in a circle, and their weight and +impetus causes the thongs to twist themselves round the hind legs of any +horse at which they may be aimed, which, chiefly owing to the speed at +which it is moving, soon finds itself with its hind legs tied up +together, and so falls helpless to the ground. + +Much smaller balls fastened together in the same manner, with quite thin +thongs, are used by the natives to capture the wild ostrich. + +Indeed, I have always been given to understand that the "boleadores" +were in use among the Indians of the Pampas from quite remote times. A +few days passed, and nothing happened, and then one morning just after +ten o'clock a Blanco officer and between seventy and eighty soldiers +arrived, who asked for food and horses. Accordingly I had two sheep +killed, and gave them what else they required, and told them to make a +couple of fires outside, over which to roast their meat and boil their +kettles. As to horses, I told them we had none left, only a few more or +less useless ones, which had been left by soldiers. As, however, they +said they had four tired ones which could go no further, I sent Pedrito +to bring up what we had into the corral, so that they could suit +themselves, for under the circumstances it was the only thing to do. +Finally, they took five and left their broken-down ones in their place. +So we were not much worse off after all. The rosillo I had saddled, and +regarding him they gave me no trouble whatever, so I really had cause to +be thankful, for I particularly did not wish to lose him. We invited the +officer to come in and have breakfast. He was a good-looking man, not +more than thirty years of age. He told us they had come from the north, +and were going to join their division near Colonia. He said the main +White army was now very strong indeed, and it was their intention before +long to push right through the province of San Jose, where they expected +to easily drive the Colorados before them, and then to besiege Monte +Video, thus stopping all supplies coming in from the interior. Should +they succeed in carrying out their intention, which he fully believed +they would do, we might have reason to hope the war would soon be over. +In due course, the soldiers having refreshed themselves, took their +departure, proceeding at a "trotte-cito," or jog-trot, towards the Pass +of the Pichinango, the officer riding in solitary grandeur behind. One +afternoon in the middle of the week following, Bent and I were up on the +azotea taking a look round. We had not been there long when we saw +something which looked like a man on horseback going slowly, leaning +forward in the saddle, with his arms resting upon the horse's neck. He +seemed to sit more or less helpless, and the horse, which was +three-quarters of a mile distant, appeared to be making his own way, +having come from the East, behind the Cerro, towards the road which led +from it to La Concordia. I sent Justiniano, who had a horse saddled, to +see if anything was amiss, and if so, told him to bring the horse and +rider back with him. This he did, and the latter turned out to be a +Swiss, weak and faint from loss of blood. We got him off his horse, and +carried him into the galpon, where we laid him on a "quatre," or light +wooden bedstead, and I then managed to pour a little Canya and water down +his throat, for, as we lifted him from his horse, he had suddenly +fainted. After a few moments he came round, and told us he was coming in +from outside with a considerable sum of money on him. Suddenly three men +appeared, whom he took to be "matreros," or deserters, for they had no +device on their hats, although all were armed. They compelled him to +hand over all the money, his poncho, spurs, and silver-handled whip, +even to a large gold ring which he wore on the fourth finger of his +right hand. They threatened to cut his throat if he made any resistance, +and as it was he had a deep wound from a stab with a knife, just about +the middle of the forearm, inside and below the elbow of the bridle +hand. This had evidently bled profusely, and was even then bleeding, and +it was clear the poor man had lost a good deal of blood. He thought the +wound must have been made when one of them was taking the ring from his +finger. However, Bent and I managed to improvise a small tourniquet, and +so get pressure to bear, which easily controlled the bleeding. We then +bound up the arm with a cold water bandage, and made the man as +comfortable as we could. Correo made him some "bouillon," and when he +had taken this he soon sank off into a doze. About an hour and a half +later he woke up, feeling better, whereupon we readjusted the bandage +and enquired his name and address, and where his home was situate in the +Swiss Colony. I told him to make himself as comfortable as he could +during the night, and early in the morning I would send a messenger to +advise his friends what had happened, so that they could bring a light +cart to fetch him, for he was too weak to ride. I told Justiniano to tie +up a horse and start as soon after daylight as he could, taking at the +same time a note I wrote to Don Frederico, telling him what had +happened. This Justiniano could leave at La Concordia as he passed, +without really going out of his way. Meanwhile, old Juan said he would +keep an eye on the man during the early part of the night, and advise me +if anything went wrong. Bent and I then turned in, feeling pretty sure +that if the Swiss could get some sleep he would probably be better in +the morning. Fortunately, this turned out to be the case, although the +patient was still very weak. About ten o'clock a friend and a relation +arrived in a light covered cart, with a straw mattress and suitable +coverings. We carried the Swiss, and placed him carefully in the cart, +it was evident he had received altogether a great shock. I gave his +relative a written statement of what we saw; how we had found him; and +what we had done, so that if necessary it could be shewn to the police, +and I said I was prepared and willing to answer any further enquiries. +They soon made a start, and this little excitement was over. May was now +well advanced, and sheep-working among the flocks, which had been pretty +constant, was drawing to its close. One morning, towards the end of the +month, Bent and I rode down early to La Concordia, where the fine flock +was to be passed through the yards. The work made good progress, so that +we were both back again at the Cerro a little before twelve o'clock. +When I saw Correo he told me a Swiss baker had called during our +absence, on his way outside with bread, and that he had bought three +loaves from him. We were glad of this, as being a pleasant change from +the "galleta," or hard camp biscuit. According to our usual custom, we +were both again up on the "azotea" about four o'clock in the afternoon. + +Everything seemed quiet, but we had not been there long before our +attention was arrested by what looked like a covered cart slowly +crossing the camp, about a mile and a half away, in the direction of the +Canyada Grande, opposite to Laborde's puesto. Every now and again it +seemed to stop, and the two horses, which we could see were drawing it, +appeared to be grazing. Altogether, it gave us the impression that +either there was no driver in the cart, or that if one was there, he was +either drunk or incapable. I then decided to send Justiniano to see what +was the matter. He had the bay colt his uncle had tamed saddled, whose +shoulder was even yet not quite sound. I told him if he found anything +wrong to make his lasso fast to the horses, and so bring them cart and +all, up to the Cerro. By this time, from Correo's description, we had +identified the cart as belonging to the Swiss baker, who had passed in +the morning. Of course, it was possible that he had somehow got +separated from his cart, which was now moving towards home without him. +Meanwhile, we watched Justiniano reach the cart, get off his horse, and +go round to the back to look in behind. He then came round and made fast +his lasso to the horses' heads, remounted, and made start with the cart +in tow in the direction of the Cerro. All this we could see quite +clearly through the telescope. When he arrived, I went down to meet him, +and Correo and Pedrito and uncle Juan were all in attendance. I saw at +once from Justiniano's countenance, that something serious had happened. +Our consternation may be imagined when he told us that the body of the +baker was lying inside the cart, and that he was quite dead, with his +throat cut from ear to ear. How he had come to his death we were unable +to form any idea. We could only suppose that two or three "matreros" had +come across him in the open camp, far from any dwelling, and that they +had done the dastardly deed from sheer devilry. The poor man apparently +had no revolver or weapon with him in the cart; if he had one it had +been taken away, neither was there any sign of shots having been fired +at him; nor was either of the horses in any way maimed or injured. In +fact the whole thing was a complete mystery. Correo and the Indians +seemed greatly impressed. Naturally, the former could identify the body +and the cart as being that of the man from whom he had bought the three +loaves of bread in the morning, but beyond that there was nothing +whatever to point as to how the tragedy had come about. Inside the cart +was indeed a sickening sight. The loaves that remained, and the floor of +the cart, were covered with blood. I took a note of all the gruesome +details, and then we got the body out of the cart, and laid it on a heap +of sheepskins inside the galpon, and covered it over with a white sheet. +When I first saw it the body was quite cold, and probably the poor man +had already been dead for more than two or three hours, for already the +arms and legs had begun to get slightly stiff. By the time all this was +done, it was getting dusk. The sun had already set, so I postponed +sending down to the Swiss Colony to convey the sad news until early the +following morning. + +Soon after sunrise Justiniano started, and I told him to call at La +Concordia on his way back, and tell Don Frederico what had happened. +About ten o'clock two men arrived, who took away the cart and the +remains. I made out a written statement of the whole affair, so far as +we knew about it, and were concerned in it. This I signed and dated, and +got Bent to witness. I then gave it to one of the two men, who turned +out to be a relation of the "finado," or deceased. In the afternoon I +rode down to Marmasola's puesto. He had just returned from Solarez's +pulperia on the other side of the pass. He told me he had heard that a +large division of the Colorado army, with infantry and artillery, was +coming up to turn the Blancos out of the province of Colonia, and that +there was pretty sure to be a battle very shortly. Hearing this, I rode +on to La Concordia to acquaint Don Frederico, who said it was just about +what he expected, and we had better be on the alert, and keep a sharp +look-out. I then went back to the Cerro, and we got the "tamberos" up on +to their "rodeo," and I saw the southdowns safely shut in, and by the +time I had unsaddled and put the "rosillo" into the stable, it was +already sundown. Next morning we were all early on the move. We +carefully shut all the doors and entrances to the galpon, and so far as +we could made all fast. We looked to our firearms, and had our long +ladder which reached to the roof of the house, carefully concealed in +the galpon, so that no one could get up there from outside; in fact, we +prepared everything to make as good a defence as we could in the event +of our being attacked. + +Next morning, after all our preparations, everything appeared quiet, but +about three o'clock in the afternoon we heard the constant firing of big +guns out towards Colla, although, by their sound, we were able to tell +they must have been a good long distance away. The firing continued +intermittently until sundown. We spent the afternoon on the roof, which +we could reach with the small ladder inside the house. Nothing happened +during the night, but half an hour after sunrise the first signs of the +battle which had taken place began to show themselves. First a small +party of Blanco soldiers were seen crossing the estancia at a gallop +from the Pass of the Pichinango, shaping their course straight for the +Sierras de Mal Abrigo. These were followed by others and by single +soldiers, galloping for all they were worth. Then, later on, came the +main body of the Blancos in full flight. Stretching in a long uneven, +but continuous line, they passed about two hundred yards in front of the +Cerro, the wounded in carts without springs, drawn by horses, and what +looked in some cases like half-tamed mares, were continually passing, to +which any amount of whip was forthcoming to make them move. Early in the +day none of the soldiers came up to the Cerro, but about three o'clock a +light cart, with a canvas covering, drove up to the house, with three +horses attached to it. A negro, who sat in front with a whip, which he +evidently had made good use of, was driving. In attendance were two +soldiers, with their lances, and fully armed. They told us that a +wounded colonel lay inside, who was in great pain, so much so that he +could with difficulty bear the jolting of the vehicle, which had no +springs. They asked if we could do anything to help him in his plight. I +proposed that we should get him out of the cart and lay him on a +"quatre" in the covered way which led from the galpon into the court, +where he would get plenty of air, and we could then see if anything +could be done for him. This we did, and then Bent and I attended to him. +He had a severe lance wound in the right side, just above the hip bone. +It was only very roughly bound up with some dirty calico, and he had +evidently lost a good deal of blood. We first gave him a little Canya and +water, and I told Correo to bring him a cup of bouillon, made of mutton, +with rice in it, which he happened to have cooking on the kitchen stove. +We undid the bandage, sponging the wound with warm water, so as to get +it clean so far as we could. I then put on three pads made of linen +soaked in cold water, fresh from the "alhibi," covered them with a piece +of oil-silk I happened to have, and over these a broad linen bandage, to +do which I remember I tore up the last remaining dress shirt I +possessed. Above all this, we firmly fastened a broad strip of blanket, +so that it would not easily move. Meanwhile, Correo and the Indians +roughly fixed up three small bags filled with the dead leaf of the maize +plant, and some old wool we had in the galpon; one for him to lie upon, +with the other two on either side, in order, so far as possible, to +deaden the jolting of the cart. By this time he seemed to have somewhat +recovered, and although we could not persuade him to eat anything solid +he took some more "bouillon," with a little biscuit broken into it. He +seemed a very nice man, about forty years of age, and he told us his +name was Antonio Martinez, and gave me an address which would always +find him. He was very grateful for the little we had been able to do for +him, and told me if at any time he could be of any service to us I was +to be sure to let him know. We then carried him carefully to the cart, +where we made him as comfortable as might be. The soldiers and the negro +had meanwhile got something to eat, and sucked some Mate in the galpon, +so they were quite refreshed, and we watched them make a start, with the +sincere hope that the wounded colonel might safely reach his journey's +end. The passing of the soldiers went on during the day; it did not +finish until about half an hour before sunset. Bent and I watched it to +the end from the "azotea," and it was indeed a wonderful sight. The +excitement and the desire to get on was intense, and it was quite clear +the Blancos had been defeated, and were now making a pretty good run of +it, and that the whole division, of which we had from time to time seen +portions, and heard so much, was hastening to join their main army, lest +the victorious Colorados should again come up with them. We also +remained watchful and alert, and continued to have everything made fast +for the next two or three days, so that should they happen to come our +way they would not catch us unprepared. The dogs, however, did not at +all approve of it, because they could not run in and out of the galpon +at will, but "Napoleon" and "Ramonou" managed to take exercise in the +courtyard, and "Brag" and "Bully" did very much the same. However, a +week went by and we heard nothing of the Colorados after the battle; all +we knew was that none of them seemed to come our way, and for this we +were thankful. One afternoon, a few days later, about half an hour +before sunset, a captain in the Blanco army rode up to the Cerro, +attended by a soldier, carrying his lance and wearing the white device +on his hat. They had a led horse with them in addition to the two they +rode, and all three were in first-rate condition. The captain asked me +if we could put them up for the night. So soon as they had unsaddled, I +had one of the tropillas brought up, and we collared their horses for +them. Correo soon made up a bed, and it was not long before Bent and I +and the captain sat down to supper, the soldier, meanwhile, making +himself quite happy with the Indians in the galpon. After it was over we +sat and smoked and talked in the gun-room, where Correo had lit a small +fire in the stove, so that we were warm and comfortable. Our guest told +us his name was Eduardo Suares; he was very polite, and appeared to be +well educated; and he looked certainly not more than thirty years of +age. He told us the battle of Colonia would have no influence whatever +upon the movements of the main Blanco army, which he expected would now +very shortly be moving forward, and that it would not be long before +Monte Video would be besieged. He did not think for a moment that the +Colorados would be able to make any firm stand outside the capital. All +this being so, he considered that early in July the revolution might +probably be at an end, and the Colorados would be compelled to resign +office. Captain Suarez also said he had passed a great part of his life +in the province of Entre Rios, where his relations had an estancia, but +that he himself was a native of the republic of Uruguay. He gave us the +following interesting account of the great Urguiza, Governour and despot +of the province of Entre Rios, who was one of the strongest, ablest and +most savage lieutenants of the famous Dictator Rosas. He ruled his +province with the dagger and the bullet; himself shut up in a strong +castle in the midst of the "Pampa." Eventually he succeeded to supreme +power after the fall of Rosas, and his first important administrative +act was to assemble all the provincial governours and to ratify the +Fundamental Agreement of January, 1831, as the basis of the Constitution +of the Argentine Confederation. He further told us that he himself was +present at the death of Urguiza, when he was assassinated in 1870. He +said that when Urguiza's body lay dead an Indian chief who was present +exclaimed "Impossibile! El General Urguiza nunca muere!" "Impossible! +The General Urguiza never dies!" It was during Urguiza's governorship of +Entre Rios that it was said you could hang up a pair of silver stirrups +upon a tree in the Monte, on the bank of the river, where there was much +traffic, and go and find them there in a month's time. But this state of +things was certainly not the case in the Republic of Uruguay during La +Guerra de Aparicio, from the year 1870 to the year 1872. We both enjoyed +listening to our guest's descriptive and animated conversation, and +having bid each other "Buena noche" (good-night), retired to rest, as +the captain wished to start early next morning. The horses were up in +the corral by sunrise, when the soldier caught up and saddled his own +and the captain's horse, and after partaking of coffee the latter bid us +"Adios" with many thanks for the very slight hospitality I had been able +to afford them. Exactly three weeks from the day when the wounded +colonel Antonio Martinez drove up to the Cerro, a negro rode up about +twelve o'clock. I happened to be just returning from a ride round the +camp in the opposite direction. He appeared to be well mounted on a +good-looking "bayo," or cream horse, with a black mane and tail, and he +was leading a "saino," or brown, with a white star on his forehead. He +saluted me, and asked if I was in charge of the Cerro. I said "Yes," +whereupon he handed me a letter from Colonel Martinez, saying that after +leaving us he had suffered very much less on his journey, that he had +reached a hospital, and was now almost convalescent, for his wound had +gone on well. It was a nice letter, couched in very friendly terms, +thanking me for what we had done, which was really very little, and +begging that I would accept the "saino" horse as a slight memento of +what had happened. I told the negro to unsaddle and tie up the two +horses and go into the galpon to get some breakfast, which he seemed +very pleased to do. I then just had a look over the "saino." He was at +first sight rather a long low-looking horse, with good shoulders and +long sweeping quarters, and it was this length of body which made him +appear, until you got close up to him, a smaller horse in height than he +really was. He gave me the impression of being between six and seven +years old. Bent had ridden down to the Swiss Colony, hoping to find some +letters he was expecting, so I had to await his return before giving me +his opinion regarding him. I wrote a letter to Colonel Martinez, +thanking him for the horse, and for his kind thought about us, and gave +it to the negro, who promised to deliver it, and after he was +sufficiently refreshed he mounted his "bayo," to whom we had given a +feed of maize, and departed. I then had the "tropilla" brought in, and +collared the "saino" to the bay mare. Her colt, which old Juan had +tamed, still suffered at times from his shoulder; hard ground seemed to +affect him the most, for after rain he could then be ridden. A little +before sundown Bent returned quite cheerful, having received his +letters. There were several people at Quincke's pulperia, and the place +seemed full of conversation and news. It was said that the advance on +Monte Video by the Blanco army had already begun, and that the Colorados +were now retiring before them. Those who had taken part in the battle of +Colonia had already returned to the province of San Jose by a route +which led them nearer to the estuary of La Plata, and I could not help +fearing lest in their passing they might have gone to Monsieur Emile +Gunther's, and so have taken "Carnival." However, I comforted myself by +the certainty that if I had kept him on at the Cerro I must have lost +him. When the horses came up in the morning, I saddled the "saino" and +rode him down to La Concordia. Bent was not much impressed by his +appearance, but when I saw Don Frederico, he said he thought him a good +honest horse, likely to prove a good servant, and that I had better do +all I could to look after him. We had now reached the second week in +June, and winter had already come. However, we had plenty of grass, and +both sheep and cattle had done very well since the New Year began. About +eleven o'clock Marmasola sent me up a message by one of his boys to say +that a battle on a somewhat large scale had taken place inside the +province of San Jose; that the Blancos had been victorious, and that the +Colorados were now completely disorganised, and fleeing before them. +Further, it was supposed the main Blanco army would now move forward and +besiege Monte Video. This was indeed great news, and we now felt we +should soon see the end of the revolution, and peace would be declared +at last. Two days later, about four o'clock, a Blanco officer rode up to +the Cerro, carrying dispatches. He said his horse was tired, for he had +travelled fast and far, and he begged me to lend him a really good +horse, which would carry him along for five leagues (15 miles), without +loss of time, at the end of which he felt certain of obtaining fresh +horses and all he wanted. What was I to do? He said the dispatches were +urgent, and he had been directed to make all possible haste. I thought +it over a couple of minutes, and then told him I would lend him my +rosillo, provided he would faithfully promise to let him go at the end +of the five leagues, and this he promised to do. The moon was nearly at +the full, and would be shining during the greater part of the night, +which looked as if it would be fine and clear. The rosillo was in +excellent form; he had not been ridden for nearly a week, and I knew he +would carry him swiftly and well, and that if all went right, when let +loose he would do his best to make his own way back to the Cerro with +the moon. While he was being got ready, the officer, who looked as if +his word could be relied on, told me that the news Marmasola had sent to +me was correct, and that it was more than probable that the siege of the +capital had already commenced. It was with a sore heart that I said, +"Hasta la vista," "until we see each other again," to the rosillo, and +saw the officer mount him and ride away. For it was the first and only +time that a soldier had put a leg across him during the revolution. So +I wished the officer "un buen viaje" (a good journey); the rosillo +tossed up his head and set off at a gallop; he had the heart of a lion, +and very soon both were out of sight. + +The first news I heard next morning was from Pedrito. He said he was +bringing up the tropillas not long after sunrise, when he heard a neigh +behind him, and looking back there was the rosillo, coming at a trot to +join his troop, just as if nothing had happened. He looked none the +worse for his journey, and a drink of water from the "alhibi" and a feed +of maize pleased him greatly. "Napoleon," too, showed pleasure at his +safe return, for they were great friends, and had passed many a night +together when the rosillo was tied up in the court, and even when in his +stable the dog would lie as close to it as he could. June passed away +and nothing happened, except that the news of Monte Video being closely +besieged by the Blancos was fully confirmed; and then early in July +peace was declared. The revolution was over, and what had been known as +"La Guerra de Aparicio" was at length a thing of the past. Thereupon the +Blancos took over the government, and assumed power, and the whole +country quickly settled down, as was the custom of a South American +republic under similar circumstances. + +Charles Bent at once began to prepare to go into Monte Video, and left +by the diligence from Quincke's pulperia the middle of the following +week. His life in Uruguay had not been a very successful one, nor was he +really fond of camp life; indeed, he was already looking forward with +pleasure to the many conveniences and comparative comfort of life in a +town. During the latter half of the month I too was turning over in my +mind whether I would not take a journey out towards the Rio Negro, +where I knew a man who had a large estancia. I had rather a fancy to go +up country, for not only should I be able to see all that was to be +seen, but also obtain a little more experience of estancia life, +probably under somewhat different conditions and surroundings. However, +while I was thinking it all over, I received a letter from Mr. James +Jardine, who was living at his estancia La Esperanza, situate some six +leagues from the town of San Jose in the direction of the river Plate, +inviting me to come and stay with him there for a time. He said he had +heard from a mutual friend in Monte Video that it was not unlikely I +might be leaving the Cerro now the war was over, so he wrote at once +lest I should be making any different plans. I rode down to La Concordia +and showed the letter to Don Frederico, who advised me to take advantage +of the opportunity offered. He said, however, that he was arranging to +go away himself very shortly for about three weeks, and he hoped I +should be able to stay on at the Cerro during his absence, and so look +after things until his return. Accordingly, I dispatched a letter to Mr. +Jardine, thanking him for what he so kindly said in his letter, and +informing him how matters stood, and saying that I hoped to arrive at La +Esperanza during the last week in August. I found myself fully occupied +during Don Frederico's absence, and I kept the weekly "para rodeo" of +the cattle going on regularly. On one of these occasions, I was riding +the "saino," we were rather short-handed, and a big point of cattle made +an attempt to break back. I had to put the "saino," therefore, into a +full gallop, and was rather surprised to find that he seemed to me to +have, when stretching himself out, quite a superior turn of speed. With +a little care and rest he had considerably improved, both in looks and +condition. One beautiful day, with a frosty air and a blue sky, I rode +him down to Monsieur Emile Gunther's, to ask after "Carnival." I found +him at home, and he kindly invited me to join them at breakfast. +Although it was the end of winter, the Swiss Colony looked attractive as +I rode through it, and this was doubtless due to the fact that the +numerous and large clumps of "eucalypti" never lost their summer +foliage. Monsieur Emile told me "Carnival" had kept well and safe from +soldiers. Moreover, when from time to time he had been good enough to +use him, as I had especially asked him to do, he had always found him a +very pleasant horse to ride. I sincerely thanked him for his kindness, +and, when I left, saddled up "Carnival," leading the "saino," who led +very well, and I arrived home with my two horses feeling that I had +greatly enjoyed my ride, and I am sure that "Napoleon" was glad to see +his friend again. One afternoon during Don Frederico's absence I had +been round the puestos, returning but a few minutes before sundown. The +southdowns were shut up inside their sheepyard, and in it was a man in +the act of catching hold of one of them. He was brandishing a large +knife, and loudly gesticulating, and he looked to me as if he had been +drinking too much Canya. It seems he had ridden up shortly before and +asked the Indians to give him some mutton to eat, as he said he had been +riding in the woods of the Pichinango, and that he was hungry, and +wanted food. This they offered to do, but when he saw the southdowns in +their yard he said he would have one of them, and when they remonstrated +and told him I should be very angry, merely remarked "that he did not +care for any Englishmen, whether he liked it or not. It did not matter +the least to him." As it happened, I just rode up at the critical +moment, when I at once jumped off my horse, went into the yard, and told +the man to come out of it, and leave the sheep alone. He made a step or +two forward, towards me, knife in hand, but I whipped out my Colts +revolver, and covered him with the barrel, warning him that if he came a +step forward I should fire. This calmed him down, and he put back his +knife into its sheath and began to walk out of the yard. I told him to +mount his horse at once, and clear out, and that if I found him again +interfering with any of the stock upon the estancia, it would be the +worse for him. So he rode away, looking very much subdued. I could only +suppose him to be one of the matreros who were still said to be hovering +about the woods in our neighbourhood. + +It had been Correo's intention to go into Monte Video so soon as peace +was declared, but he told me he felt altogether so much better for his +stay at the Cerro, he should like to remain on until I left. On August +25th, Don Frederico returned, and I went down to see him the following +morning. He very kindly said he wished me to keep the rosillo, seeing I +had taken such care of him in memory of my stay at the Cerro. I proposed +that "Ramonou" should go down to La Concordia, where I knew he would be +useful, as there were plenty of sheep dogs where I was going. "Bully" +and "Brag" were to go there with him. Jennings had been away for some +time, but I thought perhaps he might like to have them back. Don +Frederico also said I had better take Justiniano with me, as he could +lead the "saino" with my light baggage. My box and portmanteau meanwhile +could be sent over to Quincke's pulperia to await the next diligence +passing on to San Jose, where it could be left at the Hotel Oriental, +until I could send for them. I arranged to start three days later, and +when I got back began putting my things together, and getting everything +ready for a move. The morning proved fine, and Justiniano and I were all +ready saddled up soon after sunrise. + +I rode "Carnival" and led the rosillo, while Justiniano bestrode a +grey, not by any means a bad horse, which had been left by soldiers. He +led the "saino," also saddled, and carrying my light baggage. + +Uncle Juan, and Correo, and Pedrito were all present to see us off, and +thus I bid adieu to the Cerro del Pichinango, not without regret, as I +thought of the day I had first arrived there, now more than two years +ago, and of all that had happened since. + + + + +PART III. + +LA ESTANCIA ESPERANZA. + + +We rode quietly along, for we had about twelve and a half leagues in +front of us, until we reached our journey's end. "Napoleon" appeared +quite happy; not the least upset by the prospect of a change in his +surroundings. I had brought some cold meat and biscuit, and a little +coffee and sugar, so that we might enjoy a light meal between eleven and +twelve o'clock, and also let the horses rest and graze for a while. We +made a little fire by the side of the track, and then sat down until our +coffee got warm. After that, we made good progress, so that we arrived +at La Esperanza about three o'clock in the afternoon, where I received a +very kind welcome from Mr. and Mrs. Jardine, who were at home at the +time. When I had unsaddled, the former told me to turn my three horses +into a large paddock, enclosed with wire fencing, where he said they +would be all right. Justiniano, however, kept his grey, and tethered him +out for the night, so that he could then get it early next morning, when +he was to return to the Cerro. Mr. Jardine's house was both roomy and +comfortable. It stood facing a picturesque river, less than half a mile +distant, with woods on either bank. In front was a wide verandah, which +also went further back in the middle, thus dividing the house, as it +were, into two wings, united at the back by bedrooms, which lay behind. +As you entered Mr. and Mrs. Jardine's apartments were on the right, and +a large dining-room, with a kitchen and sundry outbuildings attached, +lay to the left. Quite at the far end of the house to the right stood a +high tower, with a comfortable sitting-room below, and a bedroom above. +Beyond this again was a flower garden, with numerous fruit trees, and +this joined on to another garden at the back, where both flowers and +vegetables abundantly flourished. In front of the verandah, looking +towards the river, was a wide open space. A brick house, with its roof +of red tiles, a storehouse, and an office stood fairly removed on the +right, while further away in front was a "galpon," or woolshed, with +ranchos for employees adjoining, but these latter were at the same time +so situate as not in any way to incommode the house itself, neither did +they shut off the view of the woods and river beyond. Mr. James Jardine, +or Don Diego, as he was mostly called, was a thin spare man, of middle +height, and something over forty years of age. He was a great sportsman, +and devoted to shooting; indeed, during the winter months he occupied +himself in scarcely any other way. He really took but little interest in +the work of the estancia, as he left this to his managing partner, Mr. +Alexander Maclean, otherwise known as Don Alejandro, who, at the time of +my arrival, was away in Monte Video, but was expected to return in about +a fortnight. Mrs. Jardine was not very strong; she usually had her +sister, Miss Denman, living with her, who, at the time I came, was away +on a visit. There were two little boys, one five years old, called +Peter, and the other two and a half, whose name was John. They were +altogether a very happy family, greatly preferring the freedom of the +camp to the conventions of town life. + +The Estancia Esperanza comprised somewhere about eleven thousand acres, +but within this area were included three or four "banyados," or small +lakes, and a certain amount of land, which was often covered with water +during wet weather, but affording at the same time very useful +pasturage. There were twelve hundred head of cattle, and a "manada" of +mares and colts, beside something over thirteen thousand sheep. These +were distributed at five puestos, more or less two thousand and five +hundred at each, while perhaps five hundred fed at the estancia itself. +Both cattle and sheep were each under the charge of a "capataz," or +foreman, who carried on all work connected with them, the sheep being +under the superintendence of a Scotchman, named John Gordon, and the +cattle and horses of a native, who would then be more than fifty years +of age. His name was Ramon Duran, a first-rate camp man, who knew his +business thoroughly. Owing to the war, which had so recently ended, the +estancia was short of riding horses. Mr. Jardine was much surprised when +I told him I had succeeded in saving mine, for he had nearly had to part +with the only horse he ever really cared to ride, a good-looking +"rosillo alazan," or chestnut roan; indeed, he said it was more good +luck than any care and management on his part which had enabled him to +keep him. Meanwhile, all was well, he said, which ended well. Spring was +now coming on, and September came in fine and warm. I went for a ride +round the estancia, and came back along the bank of the river. It was +pleasant riding here, and I could well imagine that later on in the +summer the flowering creepers would be very beautiful. As I passed, it +was drawing on to sunset; I noted the cry of a "carpincho," or +water-pig, whom I had suddenly disturbed, while the shrill call of the +"pteru-pteru," or plover, made itself heard on the plain beyond; and a +flight of water-fowl, among whom I noticed a white egret crane, came +quickly swooping down at the side of some marshy land, mostly covered +with reeds, where doubtless they had their home. When I again reached +the house I was glad to find my box and portmanteau had arrived, a +cartman who was returning to La Esperanza having come across them at the +Hotel Oriental in San Jose, and brought them along in his cart. +"Napoleon" had already found a corner in the verandah, underneath the +tower, in which to sleep. He was a very good-tempered dog, and I had no +fear that he would be at all likely in any way to alarm the children. +Next morning I walked down to the corral, to see the riding horses +brought up, a good many of which had evidently been left by soldiers +during the war. During the next couple of weeks the flocks from the +puestos were being passed through the sheepyards at the estancia; the +lambs had to be marked, and various matters attended to. I also went to +my first "para rodeo" of the cattle. We had horses tied up the night +before, and made an early start. I rode my rosillo, and went with Ramon +Duran to the far end of the estancia, looking towards the river Plate. +It was a beautiful morning, and the air was delightful as we galloped +along. I soon perceived the cattle were well in hand. They came up very +well to the "rodeo," and were easy to keep there. The first fortnight in +October proved very fine and warm. Meanwhile, Miss Denman had returned, +as also had Mr. Alexander Maclean, from Monte Video. I found him to be a +big, burly, and apparently good-natured looking Scotchman. He proposed +that I should take charge of the accounts, and also lend a hand in the +ordinary routine work of the estancia. He took me into the office and +shewed me the books, explaining how they had been kept. I had hitherto +been occupying one of the bedrooms opening on the garden, which lay +behind the house, but I now moved up into the bedroom above the tower. +This was very agreeable, for there was a splendid look-out from either +of the two windows, and I could imagine what it would appear on some +clear night in summer, when a full moon was shining, the heat of the +day over, and you could gaze far and wide in every direction, beyond +lake and wood, and river, away to the distant horizon, which alone would +appear to end the undulating plains of Uruguay. There was a very nice +American wagonette at the estancia. It had four wheels, and was fitted +with a pole, and drawn by a pair of small bay horses, with flowing manes +and tails. Their brown harness was both light and strong, with brass +mountings, so that altogether it was really a very pretty turn-out. A +young Scotchman, who acted as coachman, sat in front, while those inside +sat facing each other behind. When the weather permitted, Mrs. Jardine +much enjoyed a drive down to Beatty's puesto, which was at the far end +of the estancia, and she liked to take her sister and the children with +her. Accordingly, one afternoon, they all made a start, inviting me to +go with them. So I mounted "Carnival," whom I happened to have caught +up, and "Napoleon" went with us. There were one or two wide tracks +leading from La Esperanza, on either side of it, which had developed +into quite respectable roads for driving on. Partly from having been +beaten down by carts, and partly from the nature of the soil, they +seemed to have caked down quite hard and firm, so that ruts and bad +places were few, and the carriage was able to pass smoothly and easily +along. Mrs. Beatty was a nice woman, with an engaging manner. She had +two children, Susan, a little girl of nine, and David, a fine little +fellow of five. She had unfortunately lost her eldest boy, who would now +have been about fourteen, a little more than a year ago, owing to an +accident with a horse, which had kicked him and seriously hurt him +internally. This was a great grief to his mother; his name was Robert, +and he had come out with his parents from Scotland. Mrs. Beatty welcomed +us warmly when we arrived. It made quite a small picnic for the +children, for she always insisted on their staying to have tea and some +of the nice little Scotch cakes she made. So we took the horses out of +the carriage, and tied them up under the "euremada," for the sun was now +getting to be quite hot after mid-day. Beatty himself was a quiet, +rather solemn-looking man, with a red complexion, and sandy-coloured +hair. It was pleasant as we returned in the late afternoon, and as we +passed along, we saw one of the blue silver foxes some distance ahead of +us, already come out of his lair, preparing for an evening stroll. We +made too much noise for him, however, and he soon made off, followed in +full chase by "Napoleon," but naturally to no purpose. The sun was fast +declining when we reached the estancia; however, I was pleased to hear +both the ladies and children tell Mr. Jardine, who was in the verandah, +they had enjoyed their drive, and had all of them spent a very pleasant +afternoon. The next morning we had a heavy thunderstorm, with sharp and +continuous flashes of lightning, which lasted upwards of an hour, and +was then followed by torrential rain. This went on the greater part of +the day. + +Shearing began on the tenth of November. There was only a small gang of +six professional shearers employed. The remainder were made up of +natives living in the neighbourhood, of which there were a good many, +who not only could shear well, but had been accustomed to come year +after year. The "galpon" was not nearly so large as that at the Cerro, +in fact the room available was if anything too restricted for the number +of sheep which had to be shorn. More time, therefore, was needed to +complete the business. On November 20th a spell of bad weather set in +which caused delay, as the sheep naturally were wet and could not easily +be got dry again. However, a week later it cleared up, and after that +work progressed satisfactorily. The shearers were very quiet, and +orderly, and although they did not shear very fast, they did their work +well. The month of December, however, was half through before the +shearing was completed, and the shearers, having received the money due +to them, finally took their departure. No festivities took place, as was +so often customary at the end of shearing, but it was generally +understood that a race or something of the kind would be held later on, +probably on one of the days between Christmas and the New Year. John +Gordon, the "capataz" of the sheep, had a nice bay horse, about five +years old, belonging to himself, which had been born and grown up, and +also been tamed on the estancia. His owner considered him to be +something of a racer; indeed, had so high an opinion of him, I really +believed him to think he would easily run away from anything likely to +be put against him. When some talk was taking place about having a race +one evening at dinner, I said I should not mind matching my old "saino" +against Gordon's bay, provided the distance was anything over a mile. +Don Alejandro told Gordon what I had said, and he was quite willing to +ride his horse against mine, and as it happened we were both just about +an equal weight. I had seen the bay several times, a good-looking horse, +with a white star on his forehead, and two white hind fetlocks, and I +reflected I had probably made a mistake in putting my "saino" against +him. However, as the race was only to be for prizes given by Mr. Jardine +and Don Alejandro, and there was to be no betting between Gordon and +myself, nor indeed did I intend to bet with anyone else, I did not see +any harm would be done, and if it gave any pleasure to the people on the +estancia to see a bit of a gallop, all I had to say was I hoped they +would enjoy the amusement of it, and that the best horse would win. The +time being so short, it was obvious nothing could be done in regard to +training either horse, beyond giving him half a dozen gallops or so, +just to clear his wind; and it was agreed that both horses should run +the race as they were, without giving them any maize or special +preparation. The "saino" had improved a good bit in condition since he +came to La Esperanza. A rest had done him good, especially as to his +forelegs, which I felt sure had been a bit shaken. He had also got his +summer coat, and this added to his appearance. We now knew the distance +was to be a mile and a quarter, on the track leading from the estancia +towards Beatty's puesto, and the finish was to end as close to the +_former_ as possible. I caught the "saino" up for three hours every day, +and gave him a brush over, and saw to his feet, taking him out for a +gentle canter, and every other day I gave him a gallop on the course, +but not at full speed; in fact, I only put him to this twice until the +day of the race arrived, and then for not more than a quarter of a mile +at a time. Gordon did much the same with his bay, only while I rode my +horse late in the afternoon, he rode his early in the morning, when +no-one was much about to see how he performed. New Year's Day was +appointed for the race to be run, at three o'clock in the afternoon, the +day being, of course, a holiday. There was a pretty general feeling at +the estancia that the bay horse would win, and the odds were greatly in +his favour. I knew, of course, that bets would be made on the race. I +never knew a race in South America when they were not, but beyond the +prizes that were given, I myself, as I have before mentioned, did not +stand to win anything. These were to be an excellent English saddle and +bridle complete, and a breech-loading revolver, of a good make, with a +box containing a hundred cartridges to fit. New Year's Day proved fine +and still; the sun shone from a blue sky, interspersed here and there +with light "cirrus" cloud, but the air was fresh and cool, so it was not +too hot; just the day, indeed, for everyone to enjoy a holiday. News of +the race, of course, got about, and I was told that some natives who +were interested in racing were coming to look on, probably inspired by +curiosity to see how the Englishmen managed it. As Gordon and I rode +quietly down, soon after half-past two o'clock, to the starting point, +there seemed quite a little crowd gathering where the finish was to take +place. Two friends of Gordon came with us to see us off. The start was +quickly made, neither horse giving the slightest trouble. The bay took +the lead from the first, and made the running throughout, the "saino" +being in close attendance. When, however, we were about three hundred +yards from the finish, and I fancied the bay seemed flagging a little, +for I saw that Gordon was using his whip, I also made a call upon the +"saino" which he immediately answered, and stretching himself out, shot +forward like an arrow from a bow, winning easily by a couple of lengths. +The natives at once came to inspect the winner, and one, who seemed +somewhat of a principal man among them, asked me if I would like to part +with him, offering me forty dollars for him. I asked him if he was +buying him to keep or to sell again, and also if he would be sure and +treat him all right. He promised to keep him, and to do this, so we rode +back to the estancia. I unsaddled the "saino," the man paid me over the +forty dollars, and he then took the horse straight away with him. I knew +if I refused the offer, that it would not probably be very long before +the old "saino" would be missing, for I had noticed one or two natives +present, men who did not look too particular, shewing a somewhat +peculiar interest in the horse, now they had seen how he could gallop. +As a matter of fact, I had no real fancy for racing, and I thought it +better to pass on the "saino" to an owner who did like it, and to a man +who evidently appreciated the horse's good qualities, and would +therefore be likely to take good care of him. I happened to hear of him +again some time later from a man I met casually. He told me the horse +had done a good bit of racing in a quiet way, and had been quite +successful, and had done well for his new owner, so that he also would +probably continue to do well by him. I received many congratulations +upon the result of the race, and it seemed to be the general opinion +that the native, when he bought the "saino" from me, got very good value +for his money. In the middle of January the weather became very hot, and +this lasted a little over a fortnight, and then came a succession of +thunderstorms, with severe lightning, which rapidly cooled the air. I +watched one of these with much interest about 9 p.m. through the windows +of my room above the tower. Just an ordinary display of nature's +fireworks, but how grand they were! as the vivid flashes shot like +rockets in every direction through the overheated atmosphere of a summer +in the Southern Hemisphere. + +Meantime, Mr. Jardine had received a letter from a Mr. Treherne, a +friend of his residing in Buenos Aires, saying he purposed coming up to +Monte Video for a little rest and change, and that if it were possible +he should very much like to see him. Thereupon, he at once wrote +inviting him to come and spend a few days at La Esperanza, and he asked +him to fix his own day to travel to San Jose in the diligence, and to +let us know, so that we might send in to meet him. Accordingly word came +to expect him on February 4th, so I went in with a boy, mounted on a +chestnut, and a nice little grey horse belonging to the estancia, and +"Carnival" to welcome him. I also had a little business to arrange at +the Policia, and I wanted if possible to have a short interview with the +chief of police. So we started just before three o'clock, arriving at +the Hotel Oriental not long before the diligence was expected. When it +came it brought Mr. Treherne with it. He was rather a delicate-looking +man, getting on towards fifty, his hair fast turning grey, and with the +manner of the student rather than the man of affairs. He had only +brought light luggage in a pair of canvas saddle bags, which the boy +could easily sling across his "recado." I got him a comfortable bedroom +at the hotel, and a smaller one for myself. We then had dinner. At eight +o'clock next morning, I went to the police station, transacted my +business, and before leaving was fortunate in obtaining ten minutes' +conversation with the chief of police, a tall, grizzled-looking man, who +was, however, very courteous, and polite. I had two or three small +commissions to attend to for Mrs. Jardine, and some medicine to get at +the chemist's for John, and then, having partaken of coffee and bread +and butter, we were all ready for a start at half-past nine. I asked Mr. +Treherne which horse he would prefer to ride, "Carnival" or the grey. He +preferred the former, and we were soon jogging along through the +outskirts of the town. My companion was not much of a horseman, but +"Carnival" knew his business, and carried him smoothly and easily along; +he was fortunately very safe on his legs, and knew well how to pick his +way over rough ground; indeed, all the rider need do was to sit quiet +and hold the reins, for "Carnival" himself would do all the rest. + +Mr. Treherne expressed great pleasure at seeing Mr. and Mrs. Jardine +again, telling them he had a capital journey, and that the beautiful air +of the open country, as he rode along, had given him quite an appetite +for luncheon. He was very fond of plants and flowers, and, indeed, +something of a botanist as well. During his stay he expressed a wish to +see the coastline and shores of La Plata, and said how greatly he would +enjoy an expedition there some fine day, when it was not too hot. Mr. +Jardine could not accompany him, but he asked me to do so, and we +arranged for an early start, as the shore of the estuary lay a good long +way beyond the furthest point of the estancia in that direction, so that +going there and back made a certain distance to ride. I again offered +him "Carnival," as he seemed to like him so much, and I rode a bay horse +belonging to the estancia. + +When we got beyond our own camp we passed through a kind of open wood +with thinly-scattered "tala" trees. These were not large, much in shape +of a prickly shrub, although on or near the banks of a river these trees +grew much larger, and their wood was greatly used both for fencing and +firewood. As we progressed the soil got poorer, until at last we came to +what were really sand-dunes. + +These were undulating, and of large extent, and as we passed along my +companion noticed every here and there rather a deep dell, with shrubs +growing in it. Here the sand was deep, so we dismounted and led our +horses, and leaving his with me, and going down into one of these, he +was surprised to find it quite bright with flowers, "Petunias," and +"Lantana," whose improved relations, he said, were great favourites in +English gardens. We then were able to remount our horses, and so +proceeded slowly on to the shore of the Estuary de la Plata. Here the +outlook was most attractive. Nothing, not even a sail, visible on the +wide waters, shining like silver in the sunshine on that early summer +afternoon. A wide expanse of sand like the sea-shore stretched east and +west, golden in colour, and hard and firm to ride on. Bordering this, +along the edge of the dunes, were a row of large cacti, the kind you +see in flower-pots in England, but here ten to fifteen feet high, with +beautiful crimson blossoms in full bloom, hanging in profusion on the +edge of their pendant branches. Here we unsaddled and tied up the horses +beneath their shade. I soon had a fire lighted to keep off the flies, +and also to warm some coffee I had brought with us. Our luncheon, too, +was welcome, and we enjoyed it greatly. After a rest and a smoke we +again saddled up, and had a good gallop on the sands, which the horses +seemed to enjoy every bit as much as we did. We returned by a somewhat +different route, turning towards the river bank, and following it during +the latter portion of our ride. When crossing the camp, I pointed out +the patches of verbena, some scarlet and some white, which in places +quite covered the short grass, looking very bright and pretty. We now +kept close to the woods, but the undergrowth was too thick and tangled +to allow anyone easily to get inside. Mr. Treherne was much interested +to see quite large trees apparently covered with flowers, but on nearer +approach he found they did not belong to the tree itself, but were the +blossoms of a creeper, which completely enveloped it. Some of them were +quite brilliant in colour, in marked contrast to the festoons of grey +lichen moss, which hung from other trees in close proximity. He +dismounted and succeeded in getting some semi-tropical orchids, which it +gave him pleasure to take back with him. We were also fortunate in +seeing a family of the "carpincho," or water-pig; a mother and her +little ones. They were a pretty brown colour, with thick, somewhat +bristly coats, in form like a large guinea-pig, with short legs, and +webbed feet. On hearing us they all sprang into the river, and swam +hurriedly away, their heads only showing above the water. When taken +young they make rather amusing pets, and become very affectionate and +domesticated, though at the same time they will occasionally go down and +join their wild companions for a swim in the river, provided it be near +enough, returning back to the house afterwards. + +The summer's day was drawing to its close as we rode up to the estancia, +unsaddled the horses, and let them go. When Mr. Treherne took his +departure I lent him "Carnival," and accompanied him to San Jose. We +arrived during the afternoon and, as I had some business to attend to, I +left him at the hotel to rest after his ride. I also took the +opportunity of calling upon Colonel Gonzales, who was then in residence +at a house he owned in the town. A tall, aristocratic-looking man, +descended from one of the old Spanish families, who had originally +colonised Uruguay, he was now a widower with two daughters, the +Senoritas Augusta and Isabella. The former resembled her father, having +a somewhat pensive expression, a clear, pale complexion, and dark hair. +She had a quiet, gentle manner, and her sister was wont to describe her +as "muy religiosa" (very religious). She herself, on the contrary, was +vivacious, and amusing, with brown hair and a bright complexion. I was +accorded a kind and friendly reception by the colonel, who said he hoped +when again in the town I should not fail to come and see them. Soon +after I got back to the hotel we saw the arrival of the diligence from +Paysandu; this was always an event in the day, and it was timed to start +before six o'clock next morning for Monte Video. The horses were quickly +taken out, and the passengers emerged, weary and hungry, and entered the +hotel. Then dinner was served, when we were fortunate in securing a +small table beside one of the large windows opening on the street to +ourselves. We then had some coffee and a cigarette, and afterwards +walked out to listen to the band which played in the "plaza" when the +evening was warm enough. The musicians occupied a small stand in the +centre, around which the audience walked on a wide path, or sat about on +seats or chairs, as seemed most convenient. Just opposite to the "plaza" +stood the Cathedral. The moon was shining brightly, and here and there +an officer in uniform, or some other "caballero" in close attendance +upon a Senorita wearing the very becoming "mantilla," added to the +picturesqueness of the scene. Returning to the hotel, we went to bed, +for we had to be up early in the morning, when I duly saw Mr. Treherne, +together with his belongings, take his seat in the diligence, and with +many thanks for the little I had been able to do for him, he bid me +farewell, saying he hoped at some future time he might have the pleasure +of seeing me again at his home in Buenos Aires. Among the usual loud +exclamations and cracking of whips, the diligence then started, and was +soon out of sight in a cloud of dust, as it rolled and swung forward on +its long journey. I then mounted "Carnival" and led a bay horse I had +been riding, and although travelling somewhat slowly, reached the +estancia a little before ten o'clock. During the next week I received a +letter from the wounded Colonel Antonio Martinez, saying he had taken +office in the new Blanco Government, and was now living in Monte Video. +He gave me his new address, and told me that if he could do anything for +me, and I would write and let him know, it would give him great +pleasure. I accordingly wrote and thanked him for his letter and his +kind thought, and told him I was no longer living at the Cerro del +Pichinango, but was now at La Estancia Esperanza, some six leagues +distant from the town of San Jose. Thereupon, shortly afterwards, I +received another letter from him, saying he had a great friend, Don +Carlos Mendoza, the recently appointed "Gefe Politico" (or Governour of +the Department), and that he had written to give me an introduction to +him, and to say that he had asked me to call upon him at his residence +in San Jose the next time I happened to find myself in the town. I wrote +and thanked him, expressing my gratitude, and saying it would give me +great pleasure to avail myself of an opportunity which he had been so +very good as to propose. We were now getting well on towards the end of +March, and the weather was much cooler, but fine and pleasant, as is so +often the case during the early autumn. About ten days later, two young +brothers, Elliott by name, turned up at La Esperanza, about an hour +before sundown. They were riding out from Monte Video to a small +estancia belonging to a friend in the province of Colonia. They had a +peon with them, who was leading an extra horse, and who was also engaged +to act as guide, and they had ridden on that day from an estancia about +twelve leagues distant, inside where they had been put up for the night, +such being in these old-fashioned times a very common custom when +travelling through the country. Seeing that they hailed from across the +border, and that Don Alejandro and Mr. Jardine both happened to know +something of their people at home, they were not only made welcome for +the night, but were invited to stay until the beginning of the week +following, so that they could rest their horses, see something of the +estancia, and then proceed on their journey. They were in appearance one +very like the other, with fair hair, blue eyes, and youthful, rosy, +complexions. They had only lately landed in Monte Video, and after +learning farming for a couple of years in the south of Scotland, had +come out to Uruguay, having between them a moderate capital, with the +intention of renting land, purchasing sheep and cattle, and so setting +up as estancieros in a small way. There was only apparently about two +years difference in their age; indeed, it would be difficult to surmise +which was the elder. They had come out full of ideas and of hope for the +future, being but little aware that the experience they might have had +on the land at home would be of but little use to them in Uruguay, +seeing what kind of a country it then was. But they were evidently a +pair of cheery happy-go-lucky young fellows, and as I looked at them at +dinner, and listened to their pleasant and interesting conversation, I +could not help wondering what was destined to be their future. That +evening, it was a Thursday, we were all smoking in the dining-room, when +the talk turned upon the native method of taming young horses. Not +thinking of its being taken seriously, I happened to say that I should +not mind mounting a "potro," but I dare not say how long I should stay +on his back. "Bravo! Don Guillermo," said Don Alejandro, with a laugh, +"you shall mount one. We will have one tied up to-morrow afternoon, and +you shall give him his first gallop on Saturday morning." I felt +somewhat disconcerted, but did not like to draw back, and so it was +arranged, and not long afterwards we all retired to rest. Accordingly, a +portion of the "manada" was driven up into the corral, and with them was +a colt, which must have been nearly six years old, of a muddly roan +colour, with a flowing mane and tail, which had seldom come up before, +having never been touched since he was marked late as a foal. A lasso +was quickly thrown round his neck, and another round his hind legs, and +falling helpless to the ground, a halter was put over his head and made +fast with a stout thong of hide to a firm post. This would be about an +hour before sundown, and here he had to remain during the night. This +rough and ready treatment in handling a colt was quite a novelty to the +two young men, who had never even imagined anything of the sort, and I +feel sure they were looking forward with both interest and amusement to +his having his first gallop on the next morning. I looked him over as he +was being tied up, and came to the conclusion he was probably a bit of a +tartar, although, as is well-known, appearances are often deceptive. Of +course, the news of what was to happen became known, and about ten +o'clock on Saturday morning, nearly everyone seemed on the look-out to +see me start off. When we came to fix my "recado" he gave but little +trouble, although I noticed he seemed sulky, with a nasty sullen look +out of the corner of his eyes. He was now led away outside the +buildings, where all four legs were tied together by a long hide thong, +in such a manner that by giving one pull it all became instantly undone +and fell to the ground. I now mounted, Ramon Duran coming on his horse +alongside as "padrino," to accompany me, and help to guide the horse. A +native pulled loose the leg-ropes, and I was at last ready for a start. +The colt stood still a moment, wondering what had happened, and then +made a violent plunge forward and started buck-jumping with all his +might. He seemed to bend himself almost double, with his head and legs +nearly touching underneath. I sat on for a time, while the bucking +process continued, and then he threw me clean over his head, but I fell +clear of him, and at once got up from the ground, none the worse for the +fall. After getting my breath, I got on him again, with Ramon Duran +close alongside me, but he again started buck-jumping, even more +violently than before. I kept my seat until I felt my legs quite numb +with the continued strain, and then I suddenly let loose the slight hold +I had and came off a yard or two away on my feet. So I felt comforted; +for this, even among the Indians, did not count as a fall. Ramon said he +was "un diablo ungobernable" (an ungovernable devil), and urged me not +to mount him again, but so soon as my legs had regained their feeling I +persisted in doing so. This time he tried it on, but not so severely, +and I managed to hold tight, punishing him at the same time with my +"rebenque," or hide whip. I thus got him into a gallop straight ahead, +Ramon following as close as he could behind, and with the open camp in +front of me, I kept him at it until he completely succumbed, and in fact +would now go any way I wished. For the moment he had enough, and I rode +him back to the estancia, past the buildings and the people, who had +gathered to see the fun, right up in front of the house. I received +quite a small ovation, it was anyway very much more than the occasion +deserved. I then dismounted, and the colt was collared to a mare, so +that he could feed, and be got hold of easily again when wanted. The two +Mr. Elliotts, who I am sure were very good-natured, both told me how +pleased they were I had come to no harm, thanking me, and saying that +what they had seen was quite a revelation to them. The end of it was +that they all drank my health that evening at dinner, and next morning +Mr. Jardine instructed the carpenter to cut out a round medal from a +piece of lead with my initials on it, which was duly presented to me. +Indeed, I believe I possess it somewhere or other to this day. + +On Monday morning the Elliotts resumed their journey towards Colonia, +having, I am sure, enjoyed their little visit, and we all felt pleased +to have been able to entertain them. The autumn had now come, and Mr. +Jardine was beginning to think about his shooting, and looking over the +guns and ammunition. The season had been a favourable one, partridges, +or rather quail, were already getting into good condition, and it would +not be long before the duck-shooting commenced. In shooting "quail," the +custom was for two or three sportsmen to walk in a line, about fifty +yards apart, and so catch the birds as they rose in front of them from +the long grass, where they lay concealed. They were fairly plentiful, +and, if the birds rose well, as they often did, afforded good sport, +although to make a good bag often involved a fair amount of walking. Don +Alejandro was fond of shooting, besides being well above an average +shot. I sometimes made up a third and, although the same could certainly +not be said of me, yet sometimes I was more successful than I had any +reason to expect. Mr. Jardine liked to shoot two or three days a week +during the winter, so that opportunity to improve was not lacking. The +quail, although inferior both in size and flavour to an English +partridge, were a pleasant change of diet, and made an excellent curry, +both for breakfast or dinner, a dish which was always much appreciated. +A few days later, poor little Peter contracted a somewhat severe chill, +and as on the next day he seemed worse rather than better, and his +mother was anxious about him, I offered to ride in to San Jose to get +him a supply of medicine, and also to execute some other little +commissions which were needed, so I saddled up "Carnival" soon after +mid-day and reached the town a little before four o'clock. I finished +the shopping I had to do, and then took the opportunity of making my +call upon Don Carlos Mendoza, the new Gefe Politico at his town +residence, facing the "plaza," or square. On reaching the house, I sent +in my name, and was at once admitted. Don Carlos received me in his own +room, and as I entered rose to greet me, and expressed his pleasure at +making my acquaintance. He was a short man, apparently about forty years +of age with an alert manner, and a very pleasant expression. "Colonel +Antonio Martinez wrote to me about you," he said with a smile. "He is +'muy amigo mio,' 'a great friend of mine,' and is now holding a rather +important appointment in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs." After a few +minutes' conversation, he took me into the "sala," where he presented me +to his Senora, a stately-looking lady, who, I afterwards learned, was a +member of one of the oldest Spanish families in Monte Video. Five +minutes later a pretty-looking girl, who might be about fourteen, +entered the room. The Senora said, "This is my daughter, Carmen, and I +have a son Alfonso, who is younger, and is now away at school." Don +Carlos appeared to be well-acquainted with Europe, having been educated +in Paris and Madrid, and both he and his wife had paid more than one +visit to the French Riviera. The Senora asked me how I liked South +America, and I told her very much, but added, "You see this is the only +year of peace I have known since I came out from England, three years +and a half ago." Meanwhile, coffee and cakes were brought in, and some +delicious liqueur, and half an hour later I made my adieux. Don Carlos +said I must certainly call and see them again, and asking me if I was a +smoker remarked, "Here is a cigar from Habana for you," and accompanying +me to the door, shook hands, saying, "Hasta la vista, Senor" (until we +meet again). + +On reaching the hotel, I had some dinner, and much enjoyed the Habana +cigar, which I knew to be too good a one to light and smoke in the open +street. I went early to bed, with the request that they would call me at +sunrise next morning. This they did, having also prepared me some +coffee. So I saddled up "Carnival," and reached the estancia just before +nine o'clock. I was pleased to hear from Mr. Jardine that Peter was +better, having fortunately passed a good night. One afternoon I and +Ramon Duran had ridden down to look up some cattle not far from Beatty's +puesto. As we were returning he told me there was a big dun-coloured +bull, not bearing the estancia mark, which for some time had taken up +his abode among the "tarlas," at the far end of the camp, within easy +reach of the river bank. He made a constant disturbance among our +cattle, his object no doubt being to cut some of them off, and so get +control over them, and then form a small point of his own. Ramon +suggested that we should lasso him and kill him, and so get rid of the +nuisance once and for all. He asked if I would like to go down and +assist, and I said I should very much. However, we came to the +conclusion it would be better to have three horsemen for the job, so the +matter remained for the moment in abeyance. The next day he told me he +had seen Robert Mackie, a young Scotchman, who had come out to Uruguay +as a boy, and was already something of a camp man, accustomed to +lassoing on the "rodeo," and working amongst cattle, who wished to join +us in our little adventure. He, moreover, described him as "un joven muy +guapo," "a very capable youth," so it was agreed we should all three go +in search of the bull on Saturday afternoon. Ramon was to ride his +favourite "picaso" (a black horse, with a white blaze and two white hind +fetlocks), while Mackie would saddle up a "moro" (or blue roan), which +he often rode, as it was well-trained, and a first-rate horse at that +kind of work. I was to ride my "rosillo," so we were all to be +well-mounted. Our first idea had been that if we came across the bull we +should all three try and get round to the far side of him, with the +object of driving him in among a point of our own cattle, but on +consideration we determined to approach him from the direction we were +ourselves riding, and then by acting quickly and suddenly, try and get a +lasso round him before he had time to reach his favourite woods. We were +riding quietly along, when we made out the bull standing feeding by +himself, quite a long distance inside the camp, and away from the +woods, whereupon we widened out our line into a kind of semi-circle, +Ramon being on the left, with Mackie in the centre, while I took the +right, so that we might approach as near to him as possible without +causing any alarm. This method seemed to answer for, as it happened, we +managed to get closer up to him than we had any reason to expect. +Suddenly, however, up went his head, and he saw us coming, when he +immediately made off as fast as he could. We then followed at full +gallop, and Mackie, who was in the centre, pushed ahead of Ramon and +myself, for the "moro" was a fast horse, and his rider both young and +eager. Running his horse close up behind the bull, he threw his lasso, +the loop of which, instead of going round the horns of the animal, as it +should have done, passed over his head and round his neck, thus giving +the bull a much greater power of purchase than he would otherwise have +had. Then a most unfortunate thing happened. Mackie had his foot out of +the stirrup on the lasso side, which was not by any means unusual, but +he also had his leg rather far forward, and as the coils of the lasso +went out swiftly, owing to the speed at which the bull was now running, +one of them caught his right leg, entangling it just below the knee. It +was now a question of speed between the horse and the bull, with a man's +life hanging in the balance. Ramon and I could do nothing, for if either +of us pressed forward we should only help to increase the speed of the +bull. So we both slowed down, edging off one to the left and the other +to the right, which was the only thing to do. Fortunately, the "moro" +rose to the occasion. He never made a mistake, in spite of the ground +being rough and uneven, but shooting forward at an increased speed, he +enabled Mackie to get his leg free from the coil of the lasso, and so +saved the situation. Ramon had called to Mackie to take out his knife +from its sheath and cut the lasso, but when he put his hand behind him +both knife and sheath had fallen from his belt during the gallop. Now +Mackie was able to bring purchase, with his lasso, to bear upon the +bull, who was also by this time getting a bit pumped, and compelled to +slacken his speed, so that in a couple of hundred yards more he was able +to bring him to a standstill. Ramon now came up and threw his lasso +round the bull's hind legs, when both the lassos straining at the same +time, and in opposite directions, the bull, now completely mastered, was +compelled to fall helpless to the ground. Ramon then dismounted his +"picaso," still carefully keeping up the strain of the lasso, as a good +horse is trained to do, and taking out his knife from his belt gave the +bull his "coup de grace." Mackie and Ramon were not long in taking off +the hide, which they slung across the back of the "moro," behind +Mackie's recado, when we returned quietly to the estancia, reaching it +just after five o'clock. + +Winter had now come, bringing with it continued bad weather, accompanied +by cold winds and constant showers of heavy rain. This went on more or +less until the third week in June, when it cleared up; but the beginning +of July ushered in rain heavier than before, the river overflowed its +banks, and low-lying land was mostly covered with water. Fortunately, at +La Esperanza, there was plenty of higher ground for stock to feed on, +for the constant rain day after day, so filled the "banyados," usually +quite small pieces of water, that they developed into something much +more like an inland sea, flooding all the surrounding land for a foot +deep, and in some places even more. The cattle were well able to look +after themselves, but as the floods increased considerable care was +necessary to keep the sheep from being surrounded by water, for when +danger threatens they are stupid animals, easily frightened, and apt to +get drowned. The bad weather continued until the middle of July, +moderating during the third week, although still very unsettled. +However, on the morning of the twenty-fifth, I started to ride to Colla, +to receive a considerable sum of money which was owing to the estancia. +Mr. Jardine wished me to take his "rosillo alazan" (or chestnut roan), a +good horse, above the ordinary height, which he said would help to keep +me out of the mud. The morning was fine, and I made an early start, for +I wished to reach my destination without delay. Instead of using my +"recado," I put the saddle which had been given as a prize at the +Christmas race on the "rosillo," this being the kind to which he was +accustomed. The river alongside the estancia had mostly run down, but +when I reached the "Cufre," I found it more or less in flood. As, +however, the water only reached up to the flaps of the saddle, I got +across quite dry, always a comfort when travelling on horseback. The +horse carried me well, and I reached Colla about three o'clock in the +afternoon, the track being less soft and slippery than I expected. I put +up at the Hotel de la Paz (Hotel of Peace), and then went out to receive +the sum of money for which I had come. It was all in paper notes, some +of them very dilapidated, and I was obliged to look them over carefully +to assure myself they were all good currency. This reminded me of a +little incident which had once happened to me when paying an account. +The man receiving it was a native in good circumstances, but he could +neither read or write. As I handed over a bundle of notes to him he +said, "El buey es bueno pero la oveja no vale por nada," "The bullock is +good, but the sheep is worth nothing," referring to the pictures of the +animals printed on the notes I was about to pay him. To him nothing +else mattered. Having given a receipt for the money, I rolled up the +notes and put them into the large pockets of my carpincho skin belt, and +when I got into the street, I took out my revolver, just to see that it +was all right. I then returned to the hotel to see my horse was +comfortable, had some supper, and went early to bed. It was then fine, +with a young moon shining brightly, but I had not long got off to sleep +when I was awakened by a loud banging and knocking at my door. Thinking +it might be someone come after the money, I first got hold of my +revolver, before going to see, but it was nothing more than a visitor +who had been drinking too much wine and failed to find his proper +bedroom. It somehow seemed to me that the name of the hotel did not +clearly describe its character. I awoke to find the sky dull and cloudy, +and a very cold wind blowing from the south. I succeeded in getting some +hot coffee, with bread and butter. I then saddled up, paid my bill, and +made a start. When I got away from the town, I found the track very +muddy and slippery. The "rosillo" was a good horse, who could pick his +way carefully, and I was obliged to travel slowly. As I passed along, +the country on either side looked dreary and desolate. Such cattle as I +saw stood grouped with their backs to the cold wind, while the sheep +were mostly huddled together, their fleeces wet and sodden with the +rain. When I reached the river Cufre, I found the water high and +swollen, having evidently come down a good deal during the night. I +entered it as far up the bank as the pass would permit, so as to leave +me as much room as possible to land on the other side, in case the water +should be deeper in the middle than I expected. This turned out to be +the case, for my horse lost his feet for a moment, gave a violent +plunge, and I got wet through right up to my waist. However, he was not +really nervous, and recovering himself, succeeding in making a landing a +little lower down, so that we both reached the opposite side with +nothing worse than a bit of a ducking. My first thought was about the +money. My "carpincho" skin belt, which contained it was, of course, +having been under water, soaked through and through; it was all in paper +notes, many of them much worn and dilapidated, and I knew if I left them +where they were they would soon turn into pulp, and become quite +worthless. Moreover, to make things worse, it all of a sudden commenced +to rain. Looking round, about half a mile distant on some higher ground +to the right, I saw what appeared to be a small place belonging to a +native. There were only two or three mud ranchos, with half a dozen +poplar trees standing near them, but from one of the low chimneys I saw +smoke rising. I thereupon determined to make straight for it, and see if +I could get permission to dry the notes by the fire. It was not a very +pleasant idea, as I was, of course, quite ignorant as to who might be +inside, and my revolver, in case I were attacked for the sake of the +somewhat large sum of money I carried, was now probably useless, owing +to having been so saturated with water. However, I made up my mind to +take the risk, and rode up. A dog barked loudly as usual, and a dark, +middle-aged woman came to the door. I told her what had happened, and +asked permission to dry the notes, saying I should be glad to pay for +the use of the fire. To this she kindly agreed; indeed, from her manner +I thought she seemed sorry for the plight in which I found myself. "You +seem very wet, Senor," she said, "would you not like to dry some of your +clothes as well?" I thanked her, but declined, saying they did not +matter, as I wished to continue my journey without unnecessary delay, +but I asked if I might lay my revolver down by the side of the fire as +I feared it might be a bit damp, in case I should happen to need it +before reaching home, for I had a good long way to go, and it might get +dark. She smiled at this, and said I was fortunate to have come up to +the house when I did, for only half an hour before three native Gauchos +had ridden away, all fully armed, and two of them, she remarked, would +murder anyone with any money as soon as look at them, for they were +notorious bad characters, and had been in the hands of the police more +than once already, supposed to have been connected with something of the +kind. While she was talking, I succeeded in getting the notes fairly +dry, and rolled them up in my pocket handkerchief, and placed them +carefully in the large inside breast pocket of my jacket which, however, +was scarcely big enough to hold them, but I was able to manage it by +packing them tightly together, and now they were once more dry this did +not matter. I realised it would have been more prudent to have done this +before I entered the river. One is always apt to think of things only +when it is too late! I thanked the woman for what she had done for me, +and gave her a small present. "Muchas gracias Senor y adios" (many +thanks, Sir, and good-bye). "Keep a sharp look-out on anyone you may +happen to meet," she said, as I remounted and rode away. Fortunately, +the rain had now ceased, and even a gleam of cold and fitful sunshine +seemed every now and then to struggle to make itself felt at the edge of +a heavy cloud. The track was extremely muddy, and slippery, but the +"rosillo" took it all in good part, for he well knew he was going home. +When we came to our own river, next to the estancia, I found it +considerably higher than on the previous day, but we managed to get +across all right, and I rode up to the house as the cold afternoon was +passing, and the winter light was just beginning to fade. + +One morning at breakfast, early in August, Mr. Jardine told us he had +heard from Mr. Herbert Fraser, and his brother Frederick, two young +Englishmen, now staying in Monte Video, where they had broken their +journey for a time, their intention being to go on by sea to Valparaiso, +through the Straits of Magellan. They had brought letters of +introduction to him from England, and he proposed to invite them out to +La Esperanza for a short visit, so that they might have a little +shooting. They arrived during the week following by diligence at San +Jose, and the carriage was sent in there to bring them on to the +estancia. They brought their own guns and cartridges with them, and +seemed keen about sport. They were the type of young men with ample +means to be found travelling for pleasure, not quite knowing at any +particular time what they would do next. The morning after they arrived +we drove in the wagonette to the end of some large swamps, on one side +of the estate, with a boy in attendance to look after the horses, and on +reaching the first lagoon we sent the Frasers to the further end, Mr. +Dampier and I wading among the reeds along either side, with two men in +the centre acting as beaters. The water generally did not come above our +knees, but the thick weeds caused slow progress. There are three sorts +of duck, the native names for which are the "picaso," the "baroso," and +the "ovaro" duck. The first is the largest, with handsome black and +white plumage, the "baroso" is a description of pintail, male and female +being of a uniform brown colour, with yellow bills. The "ovaro" duck, +known for its beautiful variegated plumage, is not nearly so common as +the other two. It is also very wary, but when bagged is the best for the +table. First rose half a dozen "picaso" ducks, and Mr. Dampier and I +each getting a shot, one fell to each barrel. Next came a brace of +teal, both easy shots, which I missed badly, but my companion brought +down his bird. A flight of "barosos" came flying cross ways, but +wheeling round, passed over the heads of the Frasers at the farther end, +who brought down three of them in first-rate style. A little further on +a pair of swans rose hurriedly, out of range for us, but although a long +shot, one fell to our friend's gun, tumbling into the water with a +tremendous splash. We then shot over some grass land for partridge, +walking in line and beating them up, and in less than two hours we +bagged nine brace. We afterwards went on to two of the other lagoons, +where we met with success, so we drove home well-contented with our +day's sport. Among the larger birds the ostrich merits the first place. +It is not a true ostrich, but a "rhea," and its feathers and plumes are +comparatively but of small value. Of large waders, several species of +herons are found. Storks and the little egret are common, while the rosy +spoon-bill and flamingo, although very shy, are seen occasionally. There +are two kinds of eagle, and many different species of hawk. Snipe are +plentiful during the winter months, being found in swampy lagoons and +small streams; they are usually fat, and excellent eating. There are two +kinds of teal, a blue and a brown, both of which are abundant. Golden +plover and sandpipers abound, and as you ride along the spur-winged +plover, or "pteru-pteru" rises with its shrill cry, and wheels round and +round over one's head. Quite a number of small birds inhabit the +country, and the plumage of some of them is very beautiful. There is the +scissor-bird, with its curious tail; the oven-bird, which will make a +round nest of mud, often as large as a man's head, on the top of a +gatepost, quite close to a house where people are constantly passing; +and others, with all the varying shades of yellow and black. Large +flocks of the small green grey-breasted parakeet take up their abode in +the woods, and make the whole place resound with their chatterings. A +species of wood-dove is also very common, and affords good sport. +Amongst the numerous spiders is the "tarantula," which is alarming, and +its bite venomous, also another equally large grey spider, which is very +pugnacious, and will jump up at you when disturbed. There is also a +minute insect of the nature of a harvest-bug, called the "bicho +colorado" (or red insect), which abounds during hot weather in summer, +but disappears during the winter, and when the temperature is cold. It +is a great nuisance, burying itself in one's skin, and causing great +itching and irritation, and often producing sores on the human body by +no means easy to heal. Mosquitos and flies of course are numerous, +particularly near woods, and especially near water. There are several +kinds of snakes, amongst them the coral snake, which is venomous, and a +pretty little green snake, which hangs by its tail from the branches of +a tree, so exactly like the green pod of a flowering creeper that it is +difficult to tell one from the other. The Frasers stayed a fortnight at +La Esperanza, getting several days' good shooting. They then returned to +Monte Video, apparently well pleased with their visit. + +September had now come, the sunny spring-time of the Southern +Hemisphere. It was more than a year since I left the Pichinango, and I +made up my mind to return to England. When I bade good-bye to Mr. +Treherne at San Jose, he told me to be sure and write and let him know +whenever I should think of doing so, as he thought it would be a great +pity were I to leave South America without seeing Buenos Aires. So I +wrote him a letter to say I should be leaving La Esperanza towards the +end of the month, with the intention of taking my passage in some +steamer, leaving shortly for Europe. About ten days later, I received a +reply suggesting that I should pay him a few days' visit at his quinta, +(or villa, with a garden), situate in the then outskirts of Buenos +Aires, and fix the day of my arrival just as I might find to be most +convenient. I wrote at once to say what pleasure it gave me to take +advantage of his kind proposal, promising to write again when I could +tell him exactly when I hoped to arrive. He also mentioned that the +S.S. "Dido" would be leaving Buenos Aires on or about October +11th, in case I should think her a likely ship to suit me. On the Monday +following I rode "Carnival" in to San Jose, and I took the opportunity +to call again upon Don Carlos Mendoza, whom I was fortunate enough to +find at home. We had some interesting conversation as to the prospects +of the new Blanco Government, and the future of the country, and when we +parted he expressed the hope that some day or somewhere he might have +the pleasure of seeing me again. He was a nice man, and gave me the +impression of being intellectual and cultivated, and I felt very glad to +have had the pleasure of making his acquaintance. Colonel Gonzales and +his two daughters were away paying a visit to their estancia. I got back +in good time next morning, for "Carnival" carried me well. He was a +good, reliable horse, and I felt sorry to think my rides on him were so +soon to come to an end. I now fixed up my plans for departure, and wrote +again to Mr. Treherne that I expected to leave La Esperanza on Tuesday, +September 28th, for San Jose, go on from there by diligence to Monte +Video, and travel by what was known as the river steamer, on the last +evening of the month, arriving at Buenos Aires early the following +morning. The first thing I did was to send my "rosillo," whom I had with +me during the war, back again to the Pichinango, where for some years he +led a pleasant, easy life, and ultimately died at a good old age Mr. +Jardine said he should like to have "Carnival," and that he would take +good care of him. For this I was glad, for I felt sure the horse would +suit him in every way. I gave my dog "Napoleon" to Ramon Duran, who +promised to treat him well. He was first-rate with cattle, and I wished +him to go where he would be appreciated. Meanwhile, I sent my luggage to +the Hotel Oriental in a cart which was going out to San Jose, keeping +only what I could easily carry on horseback. When the day came to say +good-bye, I thanked them all for their kindness and for having done so +much to make my stay at La Esperanza such a pleasant one. Early in the +afternoon I saddled up the grey, taking a boy on another horse with me +to bring him back. And so ended a year which will always be to me a very +enjoyable recollection. It was a fine afternoon, and as we rode quietly +along the sun felt quite warm, so that we did not reach the hotel until +just about five o'clock. I found my belongings there waiting for me, and +not long afterwards the diligence arrived from Paysandu. It had come in +somewhat earlier than usual, for the roads were now good, and probably +the team of horses which were being quickly taken out, were better than +usual. Immediately afterwards dinner was served. I chose a quiet seat, +and sat on for a while just to smoke a contemplative pipe with my +coffee, and to ponder over the events of the day. I had been very happy +at La Esperanza, and one cannot help feeling regret when an agreeable +time has come to an end. I then went to bed, instructing them to call me +the first thing in the morning. I was up betimes, and able to see the +boy start back to the estancia with the horses, and also to see to my +things before the horses were harnessed up to the diligence, and all +ready for a start. There were only half a dozen passengers, so there was +plenty of room, and we rolled and rumbled along much as we had done now +nearly four years previously, when I went out to Guaycoru to stay with +my friend, Robert Royd, at Las Sierras de Mal Abrigo, little knowing all +that lay before me. When we reached Monte Video, I made my way to the +Hotel Oriental, feeling somewhat weary and tired, but a good sleep was +all that was needed to make me feel completely restored. I had a little +business to attend to during the day, and the late afternoon found me on +board the river steamer, soon about to get under weigh, with her bows +heading in the direction of Buenos Aires. It was more or less a twelve +hours' run, and I came on deck next morning to find we were just about +to let go our anchor; although still some distance from the shore. There +were various methods of landing at the port of Buenos Aires in the good +old days. The big ocean steamers lay at anchor in the estuary, from +eight to ten miles distant from the land. Passengers were passed first +into a tug, then into an open boat, whence they sometimes had to be +shifted into a cart; indeed, it was not uncommon to carry them ashore on +men's backs. However, a small steam launch came alongside and took the +passengers aboard, afterwards transferring us to an open boat, so we +reached the landing-place quite comfortably. I then got a carriage, +which carried me and my belongings on to "Bella Vista," that being the +name of Mr. Treherne's quinta. He came to meet me as I drove up, with a +very kindly welcome and many enquiries after Mr. and Mrs. Jardine and +all at La Esperanza. It was a roomy, comfortable house, with two wide +verandahs, facing north and west. The garden was just entering upon its +spring beauty, and would soon be a blaze of colour. The mimosa trees +were just coming into flower, as also the paradise trees, with their +purple blossom. That of the wistaria was already out, hanging in +profusion all along the verandah, while a little further away was a +long low hedge, thickly covered with "plumbago," and here and there a +pomegranate. There were several kinds of palms and flowering cacti, and +on the house itself was a magnificent magnolia, already covered with +buds. The rose trees were an especial care, and some were even now +beginning to flower. Moreover, there was provision for ample watering +during hot weather. Breakfast was served at 11.30 in the wide verandah. +Early in the afternoon my host took me into the town. I went first to +the shipping office, and was afterwards to meet him at the "Strangers' +Club," where he kindly said he would introduce me. I found the +S.S. "Dido" to be a steamer of moderate size, bound for +Antwerp, calling at Rio de Janeiro and Lisbon, and also at Southampton, +to land her English passengers. She did not carry many, but hearing she +was well-found, and reputed to be a good sea-boat, and finding a +comfortable cabin was at disposal, I at once decided to take my passage +in her. So the whole matter was easily settled. I found the "Club" very +comfortable and well-arranged. Those who knew Buenos Aires at the time +of which I write would indeed wonder at the beautiful city they would +find to-day. The streets were then rough and ill-paved. The drainage was +scanty and bad, and when it rained heavily the water poured like a +torrent down the principal streets. But even then there were beautiful +shops, and well-appointed carriages, with silver-mounted harness, so +beloved of Spaniards, were quite a distinctive feature, and a great +contrast to the rough and, uneven roads over which they were compelled +to travel. The great net-work of railways which now traverses the +republic was then a thing undreamed of, for the Buenos Aires Great +Southern Railway, first among its fellows, then extended but a short +way into the open country. Beyond it the wide "Pampas," the home of the +roving Indian, with troops of wild mares, together with deer and +ostrich, rolled into distance like waves of the sea, stretching one upon +another far away into the great unknown. My visit proved agreeable, and +I felt sorry when it came to an end. However, on Saturday, I was +informed that the S.S. "Dido" had to pick up a late consignment +of cargo at Monte Video, and would not leave Buenos Aires until late on +Monday afternoon. Further, that the tug which was to take passengers on +board, would leave the landing stage punctually at three o'clock, on +October 11th. Mr. Treherne went with me to the place of embarkation, and +we were both ready waiting there nearly half an hour before the +appointed time. The tide was favourable, and there happened to be plenty +of water. All was now ready to shove off, so I said good-bye to my host, +with many thanks for his kindness, stepped on board the tug, and we at +once got under weigh. The afternoon was beautifully fine as we hauled up +alongside the steamer, which, her blue Peter flying at the fore, was due +to reach Monte Video at daylight on the following morning. Dinner was +served in the saloon at five o'clock. We were then steaming along in +smooth water, so everything was steady. There were five passengers for +Southampton besides myself. One of them, Mr. Philip Payne, took his seat +beside me at table. He was a young man, perhaps a little older than I +was, of middle height, with an active figure, with light brown hair, and +grey eyes. I found out he was the son of a country clergyman and, after +learning a little farming in England, had come out to South America with +the well-known Henley Colony. When this undertaking, owing to Indian +raids, and other circumstances, turned out to be a complete failure, he +went round to Chile, through the Straits of Magellan, and at the end of +the previous summer had come back again to Argentina, across the Andes, +on mules, with a troop of Indians, then considered to be something of an +adventure. When I came on deck next morning, a lighter, with cargo was +already alongside, and the city of Monte Video lay glistening in the +bright sunshine, much as I first saw it four years ago. I did not go +ashore, for we were due to leave soon after mid-day, and the early +afternoon found us again under easy steam, with a light breeze and a +calm sea, and the ship's head pointing northwards. I now made the +acquaintance of the other four passengers, a Mr. and Mrs. West, with +their son Herbert, aged fourteen, and daughter Rose, a girl of ten. He +told me he was an engineer by profession, and had come out to Argentina +in delicate health, hoping the climate might benefit him, and that he +might obtain suitable employment. Neither of these had been fulfilled, +and I felt sorry to see him returning to England after a time which must +have been to them one of disappointment. Mrs. West, too, looked anything +but strong. Their son Herbert, was lame, having had a somewhat serious +accident to his hip, but his parents hoped that if he went under proper +treatment in England the difficulty would be overcome. Four days later, +early in the morning, land was sighted, and by eight o'clock we were +passing beneath the famous "Sugar Loaf," a high, conical-shaped hill, +which guards the entrance to Rio de Janeiro. As we steamed slowly up to +our anchorage the city lay to the left, its houses rising tier after +tier up the hillsides, the whole overshadowed by the great "Corcovado," +a mountain which lay behind. To the right the magnificent harbour, with +many a beautiful island and many a beautiful bay, stretched some ten +miles southward towards "Petropolis." We were not due to sail until +evening, so Payne and I had ample time to go on shore. We first amused +ourselves walking through the town and making some purchases at the +famous feather flower shop in the Rua d'Ouvidor. We then took the +tramway and drove out to see the wonderful Avenue of Palms, supposed to +be perhaps one of the finest in the world. Gay plumaged birds were +flying to and fro, and bright coloured butterflies were hovering hither +and thither, as we slowly walked between the long line of beautiful +trees, the lovely plumes of which, as they hung down in clusters, fairly +shimmered in the hot sunshine of that early afternoon. We got back on +board soon after four o'clock, both of us ready for a wash and brush up, +and for dinner when the bell rang. The sun had already set as the +S.S. "Dido" was fast getting clear of the land, and I stood on +deck and watched the shadows of the distant mountains in the fading +light, and I realised I was now taking my last look at South America. +Four Brazilian passengers had embarked at Rio de Janeiro for Lisbon, for +which port we had also taken in a certain amount of cargo. We had fine +weather and a good voyage, sighting land on November 8th, and passing up +the Tagus soon after nine o'clock. We let go our anchor lower down the +river than we might have done, and at some distance from the town. +Lighters at once came alongside to take off the cargo, and the four +Brazilian passengers were landed in the agents' boat. All this took +place with very little delay. Indeed, our captain wished to get to sea +again as soon as possible. So neither Payne nor I thought it worth while +to go ashore. We got under weigh soon after three o'clock, and it was +not long before a thick fog came on, which compelled us to slow down. +Later in the evening the fog grew thicker, so that the ship had to be +stopped for a time, and all through the night we made very slow +progress. The following day the fog came on again, even thicker than +before, but cleared towards evening, so that we could proceed on our +course something under half speed. The morning of Wednesday was again +foggy, clearing towards the afternoon, but the sky remained heavy and +overhung with thick cloud, so that no observation could be obtained, and +the ship had be navigated only by dead reckoning. The West family seemed +very depressed, but my friend and I were accustomed to difficulties, and +we made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would permit. The two +following days the sun was again obscured by cloud, but we were able to +go ahead full speed. On Saturday evening the captain considered we might +be somewhere abreast of Ushant, but here we fell into what are known in +the Channel as thick belts of fog. These are always very confusing and +misleading, as the thick mist comes down like a curtain, enveloping +everything, and rising and falling very rapidly. The ship had constantly +to stop, and never could steam more than four knots an hour, and very +often less. These conditions prevailed during Sunday, and we crept along +gradually, as it were, feeling our way. Every precaution was taken, a +sharp look-out was kept forward, a sailor being also stationed in the +fore-top, while two men were continually in the chains, taking the depth +of the water, and the foghorn was kept constantly going as well. About +five o'clock, the dinner bell had just rung, Payne and I were standing +by the port rail, looking over the side, near the after hatchway. A +curtain of fog which had come thickly down was just lifting, when a cry +rang out from the look-out forward, "Breakers ahead." Then came the +order from the captain on the bridge, "_Hard a port!_" A second later +the fog lifted further, and there alongside rose the precipitous rocky +face of the "Bill of Portland." It looked almost as if you could throw a +biscuit ashore. There was no wind, and the sea was gently lapping up +against the base of the high cliff. Payne put his hand on my shoulder, +"Look there," he said, "that is the place to swim for, where you see the +grass growing down almost to the water's edge." In a moment it was all +over, land and sea being once more completely enveloped in fog. +Fortunately the ship had sufficient weigh on her to enable her to answer +her helm, and she at once came round to starboard, when all danger was +past. Mr. and Mrs. West were down in the saloon, and knew nothing of +what had happened, nor did we either of us mention one word about it. We +made slow progress during the night, but when daylight appeared, the sky +was clear, and when I came on deck about nine o'clock, we were just +about to pass inside the "Needles." We then steamed leisurely up the +Solent, the tide was favourable, so that we got alongside the landing +stage, and were able to go ashore soon after eleven. I then bid good-bye +to my friend Payne, and having collected my belongings, got them +conveyed to the railway station, where I took the first train to London, +and so ended my experiences of "Old days among the Gauchos of Uruguay." + + +THE END. + + + + + +-----------------------------------------------+ + | Transcriber's Note: | + | | + | Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the | + | original document have been preserved. | + | | + | Title Page: The tilde over the u in Gauchos | + | is represented like so: Ga[~u]chos | + | | + | Typographical errors corrected in the text: | + | | + | Page 22 soliders changed to soldiers | + | Page 22 spoonsful changed to spoonfuls | + | Page 29 knowledged changed to knowledge | + | Page 59 Dr. changed to Mr. | + | Page 67 lover changed to lower | + | Page 68 fenecs changed to fences | + | Page 70 attentiton changed to attention | + | Page 71 somewhate changed to somewhat | + | Page 76 Dcember changed to December | + | Page 94 Nothting changed to Nothing | + | Page 94 togethed changed to together | + | Page 98 he changed to the | + | Page 101 Gaiten changed to Gaitan | + | Page 115 terrior changed to terrier | + | Page 116 cartmen changed to cartman | + | Page 116 believed changed to believe | + | Page 120 th changed to the | + | Page 135 is changed to in | + | Page 136 in added between standing and each | + | Page 146 workisg changed to working | + | Page 150 wih changed to with | + | Page 156 it in changed to in it | + | Page 167 interefering changed to interfering | + | Page 180 in added between growing and it | + | Page 187 One changed to On | + | Page 189 me changed to we | + | Page 197 waggonette changed to wagonette | + | Page 198 specie changed to species | + | Page 203 allong changed to along | + | Page 204 myslf changed to myself | + +-----------------------------------------------+ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Blanco y Colorado, by William C. 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