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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:04:50 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:04:50 -0700 |
| commit | e38e5c79483041c89e71101997b968d16db3939c (patch) | |
| tree | 9520fd47ecf56fb1de547856e90a1225918ec20f /35954-h | |
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diff --git a/35954-h/35954-h.htm b/35954-h/35954-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9dbbaf3 --- /dev/null +++ b/35954-h/35954-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5961 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>The Handbook to the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk & Suffolk, by G. Christopher Davies</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} + P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4, H5 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + table { border-collapse: collapse; } +table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} + td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} + td p { margin: 0.2em; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + } + img { border: none; } + img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } + div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } + div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 30%; } + div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid; } + div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; + margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + img.floatleft { float: left; + margin-right: 1em; + margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.floatright { float: right; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.clearcenter {display: block; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em} + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Handbook to the Rivers and Broads of +Norfolk & Suffolk, by G. Christopher Davies + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The Handbook to the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk & Suffolk + + +Author: G. Christopher Davies + + + +Release Date: April 25, 2011 [eBook #35954] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HANDBOOK TO THE RIVERS AND +BROADS OF NORFOLK & SUFFOLK*** +</pre> +<p>This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/fp.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Wroxham Broad" +title= +"Wroxham Broad" +src="images/fp.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center">Jarrolds’ +“Holiday” Series.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<h1>THE HANDBOOK<br /> +<span class="smcap">to the</span><br /> +RIVERS AND BROADS<br /> +<span class="smcap">of</span><br /> +NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.</h1> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">by</span><br /> +G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES,<br /> +<i>Author of</i> “<i>Norfolk Broads and Rivers</i>,” +“<i>The Swan and her Crew</i>,” <i>etc., etc</i>.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">REVISED AND ENLARGED.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">eighteenth +edition</span>.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">JARROLD AND SONS,<br /> +3, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON;<br /> +LONDON AND EXCHANGE STREETS, NORWICH.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">branches: 182, +king street, great yarmouth</span>;<br /> +<span class="smcap">the library, cromer</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">(<i>All rights reserved</i>.)</p> +<h2><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +vii</span>CONTENTS.</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p><i>Chapter</i></p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>Page</i></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Introduction.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#pagexi">xi</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">I.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The broad District.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">II.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Down the Yare—Norwich to +Reedham.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">III.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Reedham to Yarmouth.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">IV.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Yarmouth to Acle.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">V.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Acle to Wroxham.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page57">57</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">VI.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Wroxham Broad.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">VII.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Wroxham to Coltishall.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">VIII.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Up the Ant, to Barton and +Stalham.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page81">81</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">IX.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Womack Broad.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">X.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Hickling Broad.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XI.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Horsey Mere and Somerton +Broad.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XII.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Back to Yarmouth.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XIII.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Yarmouth to Somerleyton, up the +Waveney.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page117">117</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XIV.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">From Somerleyton to +Beccles.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XV.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Oulton Broad.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XVI.</p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Ormesby and Fritton.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page136">136</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="pageviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +viii</span>APPENDIX.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Railway Access to Fishing +Stations</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Norfolk and Suffolk +Fisheries Act</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Tables of River +Distances</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Tides</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page151">151</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Fishing +Generally</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page151">151</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span +class="smcap"> Roach</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span +class="smcap"> Bream</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Yachting</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Shooting and +Skating</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page170">170</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Fauna of the +Broads</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="pageix"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +ix</span>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>Page</i></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Wroxham Broad</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><i>Frontispiece</i></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Pool in Surlingham Broad</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#pagexvi">xvi</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Pull’s Ferry</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Bishop’s Bridge</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Boom Tower</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Thorpe Gardens</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Norfolk Wherry</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">On the Yare, at Bramerton</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">On Rockland Broad</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Langley Dyke</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">St. Nicholas Church, Great +Yarmouth</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Quay, Great Yarmouth</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A “Row,” Great +Yarmouth</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">St. Benet’s Abbey</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page54">54</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Cottage, South Walsham +Broad</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Horning Village</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Ranworth Church</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Horning Ferry</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Belaugh Church</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Dyke Near Coltishall</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Ludham Bridge</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="pagex"></a><span class="pagenum">p. x</span><span +class="smcap">River Bure at Hautbois</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Woodland +Pool—Irstead</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page82">82</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Entrance—Barton Broad</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Carrying Reeds—Barton</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Barton Staithe</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Ormesby Broad—Landing +Stage</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Drainage Mill—River +Thurne</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">River Thurne</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Hickling Broad</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Dyke at Potter Heigham</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Hickling Staithe</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Martham Broad</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Sound Asleep</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Somerleyton Hall</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">River Waveney</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page128">128</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Oulton Broad</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page130">130</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Fritton Decoy</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page137">137</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Ormesby Broad—Landing +Stage</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="pagexi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xi</span>INTRODUCTION.</h2> +<p>Since the first appearance of this Handbook, and the larger +volume on the same subject, which the preface to the first +edition stated to be in contemplation, the Broad District has +become highly popular. Each year the tourist stream +increases, but, happily, there is still plenty of room. No +doubt some of the old <i>habitués</i>, who liked to have +the whole landscape to themselves, grumble at the change, but the +less selfish persons, who happily constitute the majority, do not +object to seeing a dozen yachts where formerly they saw but one, +or a score of anglers where in past years but half-a-dozen might +be seen.</p> +<p>A large trade has arisen in the letting of yachts, boats, and +pleasure wherries for cruising purposes; but the inn +accommodation has made little advance, and is still too meagre, +and insufficient for the demand. The yachts have made great +strides in speed and in number. The Norfolk and Suffolk +Yacht Club has flourished exceedingly, and its regattas are +popular.</p> +<p>Artists have found out the charm of the quiet scenery <a +name="pagexii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xii</span>of the +Broads, and visit us in great numbers. Notably Mr. E. H. +Fahey and Miss Osborn have given exhibitions in London devoted to +the district. Then <i>littérateurs</i> without +number have written magazine and newspaper articles, and others, +after a few days’ scamper, have written exhaustive +guide-books; and so the ball, which the present writer set +rolling in earnest some years ago, is helped merrily forward, and +the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk and Suffolk are fast becoming +one of the most popular of English playgrounds.</p> +<p>I should like to put the brake on a little in one +respect. One guide-book writer appears to treat the +riverside meadows as commons, and suggests that yachtsmen should +bring lawn-tennis sets and cricket materials with them. +Pray don’t take such absurd advice. All riparian +owners adhere stoutly to their just rights. It must be +remembered that the rights of the public are limited to +<i>passage along</i> the navigable rivers and the navigable +broads, and the use of the banks of navigable waters for mooring +purposes and for towing. The soil of the greater part of +the river-beds is vested in the Crown, therefore angling is free +to the public. Strictly speaking, the shooting over the +Crown rivers is free, but this does not give persons a right to +shoot an inch over the banks. Looking to the fact that the +Bure is very narrow, and passes through private game preserves, +let me earnestly entreat visitors not to fire off guns either at +birds or at bottles (which last amusement appears to <a +name="pagexiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xiii</span>be a +favourite one) above Acle bridge. The sport to the visitors +is <i>nil</i>, while the annoyance to the riparian owners is +extreme. The riparian owners are generally willing to +afford the well-behaved public all reasonable facilities for +enjoyment. Let this be repaid by the public refraining from +potting away at waterhens and pigeons, or other birds on the +banks.</p> +<p>It may be well to add that, up to about the year 1830, the +Broads and wet marshes were simply waste; but by the Enclosure +Acts and Awards, these watery commons were allotted and divided +among the neighbouring landowners. In some cases the rights +of navigation and staithes were expressly reserved. In +others no reservation was made, and the Broads are absolutely in +the hands of private owners. In other cases again, staithes +and rights of way have grown into disuse, and channels have +become choked up by mud and vegetation. In no case, +however, has the right of the Crown to the bed of the common +river been affected or changed by the Enclosure Awards.</p> +<p>A great point to remember is, that the possessors of the +Broads set as much store by their bulrushes and water lilies as +the admiring visitor; therefore, do not gather any off the +Broads. All flowers and grasses which grow in such +luxuriance by the riverside, within the river wall, or the three +yards from the river margin where the navigator has an +indefeasible right, may as well be gathered for pleasure as die +and rot. Here <a name="pagexiv"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xiv</span>there is abundance for everyone; but +to penetrate into quiet nooks of Broads and help oneself to other +people’s valued property, is an indefensible act, which by +oft repetition has much irritated owners against the +public. It is in this respect also that visitors from a +distance are most prone to err, because, without reflection, it +appears that no harm is done. Nor would there be much harm +in a single instance, but “many a little makes a +mickle.”</p> +<p>As a general rule, visitors from a distance behave exceedingly +well, being educated persons with a due sense of law and +order. The bottle shooters, coot potters, and noisy +revellers, the swan’s egg robbers and grebe destroyers, the +persons who use one’s boat-houses as luncheon rooms or dust +bins are, unfortunately, home products. Of course, I hear +of all offences that are committed, and by some people I am +actually saddled with the responsibility of any breach of good +manners on the part of the public, because I am supposed to have +brought the latter to the Broads. I therefore beg the large +unknown public (of whose friendliness to me as an author I have +had so many proofs), when they visit the Broads, not to allow the +exhilaration of an enjoyable holiday to interfere with a due +propriety of behaviour.</p> +<p>The hitherto unwritten rules of the Rivers and Broads are +these:—</p> +<p>Do not, in the neighbourhood of other yachts or houses, +indulge in songs and revelry after eleven p.m., even at regatta +times.</p> +<p><a name="pagexv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xv</span>Bathe +only before eight o’clock in the morning, if in sight of +other vessels or moored in a frequented part of the river. +Ladies are not expected to turn out before eight, but after that +time they are entitled to be free from any annoyance. Young +men who lounge in a nude state on boats while ladies are passing +(and I have known Norwich youths to do this) may be saluted with +dust shot, or the end of a quant.</p> +<p>Adhere strictly to the rule of the road when boating, +according to the instructions contained in a subsequent chapter, +and when angling, moor out of the way of sailing craft, as +afterwards explained.</p> +<p>Do not throw straw or paper overboard to float to leeward and +become offensive; but burn, or take care to sink all rubbish.</p> +<p>Do not light fires, place stoves, or throw refuse on the banks +in the path of others, whose yachts may be moored to the same +bank.</p> +<p>Steam launches must not run at full speed past yachts moored +to the bank, particularly when the occupants of the latter have +things spread out for a meal.</p> +<p>Don’t take guns on board unless you have leave to shoot +on somebody’s land.</p> +<p>Remember that sound travels a long way on the water, and do +not criticise the people you may encounter with too loud a +voice.</p> +<p>Don’t go on a friend’s yacht with nailed shoes +(the commodore of a Thames sailing club once came on <a +name="pagexvi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xvi</span>board mine +in cricket shoes armed with spikes). Don’t knock the +ashes out of your pipe into his boat, and don’t catch small +fish and litter his decks with them, leaving them for him to +clean up after you.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/pxvi.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A pool in Burlingham Broad" +title= +"A pool in Burlingham Broad" +src="images/pxvi.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Don’t moor outside another yacht without the permission +of its owner.</p> +<p>Ladies, please don’t gather armfuls of flowers, berries, +and grasses which, when faded, you leave in the boat or yacht for +the unfortunate skipper to clear up. Don’t play the +piano in season and out of season (the reedbird’s song is +sweeter on the Broads); and don’t turn out before eight +o’clock in the morning when other yachts are near.</p> +<p>Observing all these simple maxims, any number of visitors will +find plenty of room for their own enjoyment, without offence to +anyone.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page17"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 17</span> +<a href="images/p17.jpg"> +<img alt= +"View of Sailing boats and Yachts" +title= +"View of Sailing boats and Yachts" +src="images/p17.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER I.<br /> +<span class="smcap">the “broad” district</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc17.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc17.jpg" /> +</a>It is somewhat difficult to analyse the charm which the +“Broad” District of Norfolk and Suffolk has for those +who have once made its acquaintance in the only way in which an +intimate knowledge of it can be gained.</p> +<p>In a journey through it by rail, you see nothing but its +flatness; walk along its roads, you see the dullest side of it; +but take to its water-highways, and the glamour of it steals over +you, if you have aught of the love of nature, the angler, or the +artist in you.</p> +<p><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>One +reason may be that the rivers are highways. From them you +view things as from a different standpoint; along them flows a +current of life differing from that on either rail or road: the +wind is your servant, sometimes your master; there is an +uncertainty in the issue of the day’s proceedings, which to +an idle holidaymaker is most delightful, and the slowly-moving +water is more like a living companion than any other inanimate +thing can be. Houses are few and far between. +Oftentimes within the circle of your sight there is neither house +nor man visible. A grey church tower, a windmill, or the +dark-brown sail of a wherry in the distance breaks the sense of +utter loneliness, but the scene is wild enough to enchain the +imagination of many. Long miles of sinuous gleaming river, +marshes gay with innumerable flowering plants, wide sheets of +water bordered with swaying reeds, yachts or wherries, boats, +fish, fowl, and rare birds and plants, and exquisite little bits +to paint and sketch—these are the elements out of which a +pleasant holiday may be made.</p> +<p>I wrote these lines whilst at anchor on Salhouse Little +Broad. The evening was most still and placid, and the boat +lay motionless among the lily leaves which covered the water +around. The white lilies had so closed their petals that +but the faintest morsels of white peeped out; but the yellow, +which were most numerous, did not close so completely, and the +dark interspaces of water were thickly starred with the golden +globes. Beyond <a name="page19"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 19</span>the lily leaves was a belt of tall +reeds, swayed only by the birds which have their home among +them. The yellow iris flowers made the narrow neck of marsh +ablaze with colour. Bounding the view was a cordon of +trees; on the one side a wooded bank; on the other, but out of +sight, the river. A rustic boathouse nestled amid the +trees, white swans lighted up the dark shades, moorhens led their +broods across the pool; the western clouds were edged with sunset +glories, and the reflections in the water were as perfect as the +things they copy. But though there was absolute calm, the +lily leaves were not still, but moved tremulously, and sent +ripples on either side. Looking closely, you saw that the +leaves were covered with small insects, and the small roach were +busily plucking them off the under side. You could hear the +little snap or suck the fishes made, and once you caught the +sound you found the air was full of these snaps, and a most weird +effect the sound gave. The roach crowded eagerly round to +eat the crumbs that I threw them. So fearless were they, +that when I put my hand into the water and held it quite still +for a while, they came and snapped at my fingers, and funny +little tickling scrapes they gave. I actually succeeded in +grasping one or two of the boldest. A piece of paper, which +had been crumpled up and thrown on the water, was being urged to +and fro by the hungry little fish, who tried to find it eatable, +and tugged at it bravely.</p> +<p>The clouds darkened. I went into my cabin as a <a +name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>squall of +wind and rain came on. The thunder grew louder and louder, +and there, alone, with the tempest raging, I could yet write that +the end of the evening was as pleasant as the beginning, so great +to me is the charm of the water.</p> +<p>I slung my hammock, hoping that on the following day the sun +would shine, the wind would blow, and the hours would pass as +quickly as the boat sailed, and slept as sound as man may.</p> +<p>It has happened that I have written a good deal about these +waters—too much, some people say. One result has been +that I have been pretty well overpowered with correspondence +arising from persons making enquiries about the district, with a +view to visiting it; therefore, when the publishers requested me +to write a kind of handbook or guide to the Broads and Rivers, I +thought it a good idea, in that enquirers might, by buying such a +book, save themselves the trouble of writing to me, and getting +necessarily short and inadequate replies. I am afraid, +however, the guide-book style is rather beyond me, and I shall be +most at home if I try to convey the requisite information by +describing one of the numerous cruises in which I have sailed as +guide to those friends who have trusted their holidays to my +care, and I will select one lasting but a fortnight, during which +time we covered most of the available ground.</p> +<p>Before doing so, a few words, descriptive of the situation of +these rivers and lakes, will not be amiss.</p> +<p><a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>From +Yarmouth, looking inland, three main water-highways +radiate. The chief is the Yare, flowing from the westward; +then comes the Bure, flowing from the north-westward, and having +her large tributaries, the Ant and the Thurne, flowing from the +northward. From the south-west come the clear waters of the +Waveney. All these rivers are navigable for considerable +distances, and on the Bure and its tributaries the greater number +of the Broads are situate. These Broads are large shallow +lakes, connected with the rivers, and are many of them +navigable. Flat marshes follow the lines of the rivers, and +while higher and well-wooded ground rises near the upper portions +of the rivers, near the sea the country is perfectly flat, and +vessels sailing on all three rivers are visible at the same +time.</p> +<p>The level of the marsh is frequently below that of the rivers, +and at the outlet of each main drain is a drainage pump, or +turbine wheel, sometimes worked by a windmill, and sometimes by +steam, which pumps the water out of the drains into the +rivers.</p> +<p>The fall of the river is about four inches to the mile. +The ebb and flow of the tide are felt for thirty miles inland, +but its rise and fall are very little indeed. There are no +impediments to navigation of any consequence, so it may be +imagined what a “happy hunting ground” this is to the +boat-sailor, the naturalist, and the angler.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/tp21.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter end divider" +title= +"Decorative chapter end divider" +src="images/tp21.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page22"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 22</span> +<a href="images/hp22.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header divider" +title= +"Decorative chapter header divider" +src="images/hp22.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER II.<br /> +<span class="smcap">down the yare. norwich to +reedham</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc22.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc22.jpg" /> +</a>“Do you mean to say,” said Wynne, “that +these Broads are worth my giving up a few days to seeing +them?”</p> +<p>“If you will give up a fortnight, I promise you that you +will find it too short. You went to the Friesland Meres +years ago, and enjoyed it. You will like these quite as +well.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p23.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Pull’s Ferry" +title= +"Pull’s Ferry" +src="images/p23.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>So he promised to come for a fortnight, rather reluctantly, +and when, on his arrival in Norwich, he took a preliminary canter +by rail to Yarmouth, he refused to say anything about what he +thought of the country, which looked ominous. We had hired +a ten-ton cutter, and she was lying at Thorpe, a mile and a half +below the city. The man we had engaged rowed the jolly-boat +up for us, and as Wynne was enthusiastic about old buildings, we +rowed him up the river to the New Mills, a very old mill, which +spans the river Wensum near its <a name="page25"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 25</span>entrance into the city. From +thence we came back along the narrow sinuous river, overhung with +buildings, many of them ancient and picturesque, under numerous +bridges, wharves where wherries were loading or unloading, using +the half-lowered mast as cranes, past the Boom Tower, still +keeping watch and ward over the river; quaint Bishops’ +Bridge; Pull’s Ferry, where there is a ruined water gate, +often sketched and photographed; past the railway station, into +the reach parallel with King Street, where gables, and archways, +and courts delight the painter. Here, on the left bank, is +another Boom Tower, built of flint, the universal building-stone +of Norfolk, faced by another tower on the opposite bank, whence +runs a fine piece of the old city wall up the hill <a +name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>to another +and larger tower, in better preservation, on the summit. +Then we next passed the very extensive works of Messrs. J. and J. +Colman, and below them innumerable stacks of choice wood, out of +which the boxes to contain the mustard, etc., are made.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p25.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Bishop’s Bridge" +title= +"Bishop’s Bridge" +src="images/p25.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p26.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Boom Tower" +title= +"Boom Tower" +src="images/p26.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>“You speak of this as the Wensum,” said Wynne; +“I thought it was the Yare.”</p> +<p>“This river is the Wensum, but this smaller stream +coming in on the right is the true Yare, and from this point the +united river takes the name of the Yare. This spot is +called Trowse Hythe, and half a mile up it, where there is a +mill, was once a famous spot for smelts, where they were caught +by large casting nets, used at <a name="page29"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 29</span>night by torch-light, but the town +sewage has effectually spoiled the smelting. The pool below +the New Mills was also a place where the smelts were caught in +large numbers, but it is not so good now.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p27.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Thorpe Gardens" +title= +"Thorpe Gardens" +src="images/p27.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Presently we came to Thorpe, where a bend of the river has +been cut off by two railway bridges, and a straight new cut made +for the navigation. We took the old river, and Wynne was +charmed with the view which then unfolded itself. The long +curve of the river was lined on the outer bank by picturesque +houses, with gardens leading to the water’s edge, while +behind them rose a well-wooded bank. In the autumn of 1879 +this reach was found to be swarming with pike, and it speedily +swarmed with anglers, who had generally good sport until, +apparently, all the pike were caught. At intervals since, +there have been similar immigrations of pike to this reach when +tides unusually high or salt drive the fish up from the lower +reaches. At the lower end of the reach is a favourite +resort on summer evenings, a waterside inn, known as Thorpe +Gardens, where we pulled up. Here there are also +boat-letting stations, where cruising yachts can be hired.</p> +<p>Just through the bridge, <a name="citation29"></a><a +href="#footnote29" class="citation">[29]</a> we joined the main +river again, and noticed several yachts moored against the bank, +amongst which was ours.</p> +<p><a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 30</span>Wynne +stepped on board, curious to inspect a Norfolk yacht, and he +freely commented on her enormous counter, short keel, great open +well, and tall pole-mast. In a short time we stowed all our +belongings, and set sail—mainsail, jib, and +topsail—the spread of canvas rather startling Wynne, who +had only been used to sea yachts. There was a light +north-westerly wind, and we glided swiftly away before it. +But ere we had sailed a couple of hundred yards, Wynne insisted +on our stopping to sketch the White House, at Whitlingham, which, +with the trees on the hill, the wood-shaded reach of river, and +the huge brown sails of the wherries, formed a picture we might +well wish to carry away. Wynne often stopped in this way, +to the intense disgust of our man, who liked to make his passages +quickly, and had no sympathy with artistic amusements.</p> +<p>The dyke leading out of the river by the White House is a +regular harbour for pike, which is continually restocked from the +river. It is private property, but just at the mouth of the +dyke, in the navigable river, is a good spot. At least +three hundred pike were taken here last winter by Norwich +artisans.</p> +<p>“What graceful craft these wherries, as you call them, +are!” remarked Wynne, as he rapidly sketched the +high-peaked sail of one which was slowly beating to windward or +“turning,” as the vernacular hath it, up the narrow +river.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p30a.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"A Norfolk Wherry" +title= +"A Norfolk Wherry" +src="images/p30a.jpg" /> +</a>And he was quite right. There is not a line <a +name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>that is not +graceful about a Norfolk wherry. She has a long low hull +with a rising sheer to stem and stern, which are both +pointed. She has a tall and massive mast supporting a +single large sail which is without a boom, but has a very long +gaff launching out boldly at an angle of forty-five +degrees. The curve of the brown or black sail from the +lofty peak to the sheet is on all points of sailing a curve of +beauty. The wherries are trading crafts carrying from +twenty to fifty tons of cargo. They are manned generally by +one man, who sometimes has the aid of his wife or children. +They are nearly as fast as yachts, sail closer to the wind, and +are wonderfully handy. The mast is weighted at the keel +with one or two tons of lead, and is so well balanced that a lad +can lower or raise it with the greatest ease, when it is +necessary to pass under a bridge. Wherries are the most +conspicuous objects in a Norfolk broad landscape, and are in +sight for miles, as they follow the winding courses of the +rivers, often nothing but the sail visible above the green +marsh.</p> +<p>Very many of these wherries have been converted into sailing +house boats or pleasure barges, and so constitute most admirable +floating homes for those who like cruising with greater comfort +than small yachts can give.</p> +<p>It was an hour before we got under way again, and when, after +sailing down the long straight reach by Whitlingham, we came in +sight of the eminence known as Postwick Grove, Wynne wished to +land in order that <a name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +32</span>he might see the view from the top. The man burst +into open grumbling, so we asked him if the trip were undertaken +for his pleasure or ours, and on his reluctantly admitting that +it was for ours, we told him it was our pleasure to do as we +liked, and he resigned himself to his fate. The watermen on +these rivers are very civil, but they look with disfavour upon +anything which interferes with actual sailing.</p> +<p>Well, the view from Postwick was worth seeing. The +curving reaches of the river, animated with yachts, wherries, and +boats, lay beneath us, and the green marshes were bounded by the +woods of Thorpe, Whitlingham, and Bramerton, while the ruined +church of Whitlingham stood boldly on the brow of the opposite +hill.</p> +<p>Under way again, we presently reached Bramerton, where the +“Wood’s End” public-house offers good cheer to +the wherryman and boating-man.</p> +<p>The pleasure-steamers which run between Norwich and Yarmouth +afford a quick but less pleasant way of seeing the river, and +stop at Bramerton nearly every day in the week.</p> +<p>Now the higher ground falls away from the river on each side +of us, and the belt of marshes widens, the river is higher than +the surface of the land, and the water is lifted out of the many +drains and dykes by means of turbine wheels, worked by the +windmills which form such conspicuous objects in the landscape, +and by more pretentious steam drainage mills.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page33"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 33</span> +<a href="images/p33.jpg"> +<img alt= +"On the Yare, at Bramerton" +title= +"On the Yare, at Bramerton" +src="images/p33.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +35</span>Surlingham Ferry, 6 miles by river from Norwich, next +came into view. The house, with its picturesque gables, +lies in the shadow of a group of fine trees. A horse and +cart was being ferried across on the huge raft as we approached, +and the chain was only just dropped in time for us to pass.</p> +<p>There is a good inn at the Ferry, with limited but comfortable +staying accommodation; and excellent roach fishing is often +obtainable. The shore above the Ferry on the same side is +suitable for mooring yachts to, as there is a fair depth of water +close to the bank.</p> +<p>“What numbers of boats there are with people +fishing?” said Wynne. “Do they all catch +anything?”</p> +<p>“Oh, yes, any quantity, as far as number goes, of roach, +and bream, and some good fish too, but the larger fish are caught +in the deeper water, lower down.”</p> +<p>Coldham Hall is the next fishing station of importance. +There is a good inn there, and plenty of boats for hire at a +cheap rate. Fishing and other boats can also be obtained at +Messrs. H. Flowers and Co.’s new boating station, where +yachts can be moored and laid up. As the railway station +(Brundall) is close to it, it is very convenient for +anglers. The mooring places at Brundall and Coldham Hall +are not many, as the banks are very shoal. In the reach +between Brundall and Coldham Hall only the middle third of the +river is navigable for yachts; and the same may be said of the +long reach below Coldham Hall. We could see <a +name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>half-a-dozen +fishing boats under the lee of the point above the station. +It seems a favourite place, for I never passed it without seeing +fishermen there. But as the man had to sail the yacht round +the great curve of the river, we took a short cut across +Surlingham Broad in the jolly.</p> +<p>This Broad lies within a horse-shoe bend of the river, and has +a navigable channel across it. It is not deep enough, +however, for yachts or laden wherries. The Broad is largely +affected by the tide, which sometimes leaves its shallows +exposed. The river, as I should have said, is tidal up to +Norwich, and the force of the tide increases with every deepening +of Yarmouth Haven. We rowed up the dyke which leads on to +the Broad, a small sheet of water, overgrown with weeds and very +shallow, but a capital nursery for fish and fowl. The +fishing upon it is preserved. Rowing across it, we entered +another dyke, and emerged into the river again, and caught up the +yacht.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p36.jpg"> +<img alt= +"On Rockland Broad" +title= +"On Rockland Broad" +src="images/p36.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Snipe abound on the marshes here, and their drumming can +always be heard in the early summer. The flat, far-reaching +marshes glowed with a thousand tints of flower and grass, and the +iris gleamed brightly in the lush margins of the river. We +sailed quietly on, down the curving reaches of the widening +river, watching the slow-seeming flight of the heron, the splash +of fish, the bending reeds, and the occasional boat-loads of +anglers, until we came to the mouth of a dyke, about a mile long, +up which we again rowed in the jolly, to explore <a +name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>Rockland +Broad, where the open water is much more extensive than at +Surlingham. Here there are several eel-fishers’ +floating abodes, Noah’s-ark-like structures, with nets and +“liggers” dangling about them. The fishing and +shooting on the Broad are, at present, open to all.</p> +<p>This Broad is also much affected by the tide, as, +notwithstanding its distance from the river, there are numerous +connecting dykes permitting easy flow and re-flow of water.</p> +<p>Back in the yacht again, we reached Buckenham Ferry (ten and a +half miles), a favourite angling rendezvous, with a railway +station of the same name close by. A long row of trees on +the left bank is the cause of daily trouble to wherrymen and +sailormen, as it shuts off the wind. The man who plants +trees by the side of a navigable river, where the navigation +depends upon the wind, is the very reverse of a benefactor to +mankind, and only selfishness or thoughtlessness can permit such +an act.</p> +<p>There is fair mooring for yachts just below the Inn, on the +same side, but they must be kept well off the shore by poles, or +as the tide ebbs they will strand and perhaps fall over. +The Ferry Inn is noted for its comfort; and its limited staying +accommodation is good. The fishing is very good both up and +down the river, and there are good boats for hire for fishing +purposes.</p> +<p>The river now becomes very wide and deep, and the shoals near +the banks, which abound in the higher <a name="page38"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 38</span>reaches, are not so frequent. I +would call the especial attention of the river authorities to the +disgraceful state of the river as far as Buckenham Ferry. +Each year the shoals and weeds increase, and the channel narrows, +until in some places not more than a third of the river-width is +available for the navigation. The natural consequence will +be that the navigation must gradually cease to be made use of, as +it becomes a matter of difficulty, and the railway will take the +trade, which might be kept to the river if a more energetic care +of the navigable stream were taken. This is a most serious +matter, and ought to be attended to.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p38.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Langley Dyke" +title= +"Langley Dyke" +src="images/p38.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>Next is +Langley Dyke, near which are the reaches of the river where the +principal regattas are held, and by the river side is Cantley Red +House (fourteen miles). Cantley railway station is very +close to the river, and as the water is deep close to the bank, +and there is some fairly firm ground, this is a favourite +yachting station, with good mooring to the banks. +Comfortable quarters may be had at the Red House, and the fishing +is good all about. A little lower down, on the same side of +the river, is another house, “Peart’s,” where +one may obtain comfortable accommodation, and a +“dock” where small boats may be safely left.</p> +<p>We delayed so long on our way that the wind was falling, as it +usually does towards five o’clock on summer days: the tide +had also turned, and we had it against us, so our progress was +slow. We passed the mouth of the Chet on our right, +navigable some four miles up to Loddon. Its mouth is marked +by Hardley Cross, which forms the boundary between the Norwich +and Yarmouth jurisdictions over the river. We barely made +headway as a public-house on the left, called Reedham Ferry, was +reached, and a little lower down we lay to against the +“rond,” or bank, and made all snug for the +night. A little further is Reedham village (eighteen +miles), which is picturesquely situated on high ground on the +north bank of the river. The railway station is close by, +and is the junction between the Yarmouth, Lowestoft, and Norwich +lines. There is staying accommodation <a +name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>to be had at +Reedham. Yachts can be moored against the south bank above +the bridge, but should not be left unguarded, as the tide runs +strong, and wherries tacking through the bridge often jam up +against the bank.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p40.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Roach" +title= +"Roach" +src="images/p40.jpg" /> +</a>The stove was soon alight, and the kettle on, while we walked +to the village for eggs and milk. As the gloaming deepened, +Wynne grew poetical over the scene of wide space there was about +us, filled then with an orange glow from the west, while the +swallows skimmed the river, and struck red drops of spray from +the surface. Then when the awning was spread over the stern +sheets, and the lamp lit up the snug cabin, Wynne smoked +contentedly, to the envy of the writer, who cannot smoke; and it +was later than it ought to have been ere we lay down in our +respective bunks, and were lulled to sleep by the ripple of the +water against the planks.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page41"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 41</span> +<a href="images/p41.jpg"> +<img alt= +"St. Nicholas’ Church, Great Yarmouth" +title= +"St. Nicholas’ Church, Great Yarmouth" +src="images/p41.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page43"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 43</span> +<a href="images/hp43.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative Chapter header" +title= +"Decorative Chapter header" +src="images/hp43.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER III.<br /> +REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc43.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc43.jpg" /> +</a>The next morning we were up betimes to take the last of the +ebb down to Yarmouth, and catch the tide up the Bure. As +there was a fresh breeze from the east, we had to tack nearly the +whole of the way.</p> +<p>At Reedham there is a swing bridge, over which the railway +passes, and if the wind is foul it is always a difficult matter +to sail through, particularly if the tide be against you. +On the present occasion we had the tide with us; therefore, on +reaching the opening of the bridge, we could shoot the yacht up +into the wind, and carry her way on until through, when her head +was paid off on the proper tack.</p> +<p>“I tell you what, these Norfolk waters are capital +places to learn to steer in. An inch either way, and we +should have torn our sail against the bridge.”</p> +<p>“Yes, and what with getting the utmost on every <a +name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>tack, without +going ashore, shaving wherries by a yard or two, and watching for +every puff as it comes over the grasses on the marsh, so as to +make the most of it, there is more fun in sailing here than on +more open waters.”</p> +<p>Just below the bridge is the <i>New Cut</i>, a perfectly +straight canal, three miles long, connecting the Yare with the +Waveney, and so saving a round of some eighteen miles, which +would otherwise be necessary to get from the one river to the +other, as a reference to the map will show.</p> +<p>Now came a steady beat for several miles, until we reached the +Berney Arms (on the right is the mouth of the river Waveney), +when Breydon water opened out before us, with Yarmouth in the +distance. When the tide is in, this is a remarkable sheet +of water, four and a-half miles long by a mile broad. There +are mud flats on either side of the wide channel, where herons +and sea-fowl greatly congregate. The strong wind against +the tide raises a respectable sea, and the tacks being longer we +made rapid progress, and the motion was exhilarating. A +sail across Breydon in a strong wind, is a thing I always +consider a great treat. The channel is marked out by stout +posts at intervals of two hundred yards or thereabouts, but it is +not safe to sail too close to all these posts unless the tide be +high, as the shoals stretch out beyond them, and, in default of +local knowledge, it is best to give them a wide berth.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page45"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 45</span> +<a href="images/p45.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Quay, Great Yarmouth" +title= +"The Quay, Great Yarmouth" +src="images/p45.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>The +spires of Yarmouth grow more distinct, and at last we arrived at +its quays, just as the tide was on the turn. We made fast +alongside a wherry moored to the quay, and while our man, with +the assistance of one of the loiterers on the quay, lowered the +mast, and quanted the yacht up the narrow mouth of the Bure and +under two bridges, we took a stroll about the quays, the quaint +“rows” and streets of the old part of the town, and +had a peep at the splendid church.</p> +<p>The ebb tide runs very strongly, and, to avoid being carried +against the bridge which spans the contracted harbour, it is +prudent for the stranger to have an anchor in readiness. +The public quays are on the north side next the town, and a berth +alongside a wherry or other yacht can be chosen. There are +private moorings laid down alongside the south shore off +“Cobholm Island,” and it is customary, in case of +need, to bring up to one of these, if vacant; but a yacht must +not be moored there, or alongside another yacht there, without +permission. If the visitor is nervous or inexperienced, he +can avail himself of the services of one of the watermen loafing +about the quays, to help him through the fixed bridges which +block the entrance to the river Bure, which here enters the +harbour.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p48.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Bream" +title= +"Bream" +src="images/p48.jpg" /> +</a>The river bends to the south at an acute angle with its +former course, and for about three miles runs very close to, and +almost parallel with the sea. It is interesting to row past +the wharves and quays, where many <a name="page48"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 48</span>quaint and picturesque bits present +themselves, but on account of the rapid flow of the tide, it is +not a part of the river much frequented by the river yachts.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page49"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 49</span> +<a href="images/p49.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A “row”, Great Yarmouth" +title= +"A “row”, Great Yarmouth" +src="images/p49.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>As Yarmouth has guide-books all to itself, it is not necessary +here to expatiate upon its attractions.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page51"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 51</span> +<a href="images/hp51.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp51.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IV.<br /> +<span class="smcap">yarmouth to acle</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc51.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc51.jpg" /> +</a>On going back to the yacht, we found that she was moored in +the North River, or Bure, having been quanted under the two fixed +bridges, and the mast was being slowly raised. The big pole +masts of these river yachts are very heavy and unwieldy, and I am +always glad when the operation of lowering and raising them again +is safely over. Sometimes they have lead weights +permanently fixed to the heel of the mast (which latter swings in +a tabernacle), but generally, lumps of ballast have to be shifted +and hooked on, a troublesome “pinch-finger” business +which I avoid in my own yacht by using a tackle and blocks.</p> +<p>Of course the wind was fair, as our course up the Bure lies +north for a mile or two, and then due west as far as Acle; and it +is well when it is fair, for the next twelve miles are very +uninteresting. There is nothing whatever <a +name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 52</span>to see, +except eel sets and boats. These Noah’s-ark-like +craft are generally made out of old sea boats, with a hut built +on them. They are shoved a little way up a dyke, out of the +way of wherries, and the eel net is stretched across the stream, +waiting for the eels, in their annual migrations seawards, to +swim into it. Those two wooden buoys, one on each side of +the river, mark its position.</p> +<p>Almost at our first starting, we got aground; hard and fast +too, for the shoals are frequent hereabout. We waited for +the tide to float us off, and to help it we sent a rope ashore to +a man on the bank. The rope was not quite long enough, and +Wynne undertook to bend another to it. The man set all his +weight on it, the knot parted, and the man disappeared on the +other side of the embankment, where there was, we knew, a deep +ditch. Presently he reappeared, dripping wet, and in a +towering passion. He refused to assist us any more, so we +waited a little longer, and as the tide rose, we were again +afloat.</p> +<p>Once round the bend by the Two-mile House we sped away at top +speed to the westward, with frequent jibes as the river +bends. The great boom came over with tremendous force, and +made the yacht quiver again, although we eased it all we could by +rallying in the sheet. The low, dull banks passed rapidly +by, the only land-marks being solitary houses, known as the +three-mile, four-mile, five-mile, six-mile, and seven-mile +houses. Then we came to Stokesby Ferry, where there is a +group <a name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>of +houses, which would make a picture, and an inn, where there is +tolerable accommodation, called the Ferry House. Then, on +the right, are some sluices, marking the entrance to the +“Muck Fleet,” a shallow, muddy dyke, only navigable +for small boats, which leads to the fine group of Broads known as +Ormesby and Filby Broads. Of these we shall have something +to say afterwards. A separate excursion has to be made to +them, as they do not come within the round of a yachting trip, +unless you drag your jolly over the sluices, and row the +four-miles-long Muck Fleet. Having once tried this +experiment, I cannot recommend others to do it.</p> +<p>A mile and a half further on, and we came to Acle bridge, +twelve miles from Yarmouth. Here is a fixed bridge, where +the mast has to be lowered. When we got through this we +stopped for dinner, and then, although we might have sailed up to +Wroxham with the wind before dark, we were fated to spend the +night here, in consequence of a freak of Wynne’s. In +the exuberance of his spirits, he attempted to jump a wide dyke, +using the quant as a leaping-pole. As a matter of course, +the pole sank deep into the mud, and when it attained an upright +position, it refused to depart from it, and so checked Wynne in +mid-air.</p> +<p>“Whatever is going to happen now?” he exclaimed, +and after a frantic gymnastic exercise on the top of the quant, +it slowly bent, and finally broke, depositing Wynne on his back +in the middle of the dyke.</p> +<p><a name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>We +fairly shrieked with laughter, and, as Wynne said, it served him +right, for laughing as he did at the man rolling into the ditch, +when the rope gave way.</p> +<p>As we had to get a new quant from Yarmouth, we had to wait +here until the morning, and amuse ourselves with fishing for +bream, of which large quantities may be caught here, and of good +weight. Acle is a capital fishing station, and is now +accessible from Norwich by the new line to Yarmouth, branching +off at Brundall. Acle is a charming village, and offers +many residential facilities to those who are fond of country life +and aquatic amusements. It is within easy reach of all the +best Broads, lying on the rivers Bure and Thurne, and not far by +water to Yarmouth. There are three good inns—the +“King’s Head,” the “Queen’s +Head,” and the “Angel.” The most +convenient is the one by Acle bridge (the “Angel”), +kept by Mr. Rose, who well understands and can supply the needs +of yachting men and anglers. There is staying accommodation +at the inn, a wagonnette to meet the trains, fishing boats to +let, and every attention from the host. As there is good +mooring to both banks, especially above the bridge, and the river +is wide and deep, Acle is rapidly becoming a favourite yachting +and angling station.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p55.jpg"> +<img alt= +"St. Benet’s Abbey" +title= +"St. Benet’s Abbey" +src="images/p55.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Owing to the wide breadth of marsh there is a true wind for +sailing, and the reaches above Acle to Thurnemouth are wider and +finer than any other parts of the Bure.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page57"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 57</span> +<a href="images/hp57.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp57.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER V.<br /> +<span class="smcap">acle to wroxham</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc57.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc57.jpg" /> +</a>The wind, on the next morning, was from the north-west, a +head wind for us, and there was little of it; so little, indeed, +that we could not stem the tide, and had to quant for three +miles. Then we came to the mouth of the river Thurne, +leading to Hickling Broad, up which we intended to sail on our +return from Wroxham. The Bure turns off sharply to the +west, and as the wind gradually gained in strength, we were able +to dispense with the unwelcome labour of quanting.</p> +<p>The first noteworthy spot that we came to was St. +Benet’s Abbey, situated on the north bank of the +river. Once upon a time it must have been a mighty +building, covering much ground, as its scattered ruins +testify. Now nought reminds us of its founder, sensible +King Canute, but a fine archway, with some contiguous walls, upon +which a windmill has been erected, but which is <a +name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>now itself in +ruins, and two massive parallel walls, standing about two hundred +yards to the eastward; also, there are arched doorways, and +strong walls in the house by the riverside, whose cool recesses +speak of ancient days. This house was once a public-house; +we landed to get a drink of buttermilk, and lay in a store of +eggs and butter. We also climbed to the top of the ruined +arch, whence a wide prospect is visible, and one may count a +goodly number of churches.</p> +<p>Opposite the ruins is a dyke, down which a wherry turned.</p> +<p>“Where does that lead to?” asked Wynne.</p> +<p>“To South Walsham Broad, which is a mile and a half down +it; and, although wherries can sail down, this boat, which draws +about five feet six inches, cannot. Still, we can go down +in the jolly, or, if you like, stay here, and fish for +perch. This is a noted spot, because there is a hard +gravelly bottom, and, by the way, we might have stopped at Thurne +mouth, which is a good place for pike.”</p> +<p>“I like exploring these dykes, so I vote we go down to +the Broad.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p58a.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Cottage, South Walsham Broad" +title= +"Cottage, South Walsham Broad" +src="images/p58a.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>So we started, and overtook the wherry, which had been +aground, and she gave us a tow down. The Broad, which was +formerly one sheet of water, has, by the growth of reeds and +plants, been divided into two portions. There was nothing +particular to be seen in the first one; but on rowing into the +further Broad, we saw <a name="page59"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 59</span>a cottage on the right bank, which, +with its long, low thatch, deep eaves, its honeysuckles and +roses, its trees and its landing-place, formed a most tempting +object for a sketch, and one the artist would do well to +seek. The Broad is private, save for the navigation across +one part of it to South Walsham, and the fishing is +preserved. The old course of the river formerly made a +horse-shoe bend down towards South Walsham, and the present +straight channel by the Abbey ruins is an artificial cut. +The site of the Abbey is an island of solid ground in the midst +of a great extent of marsh. When we got back to the boat we +saw the man fast asleep on the counter, with his rod in the +river, in tow of a large perch, weighing one pound and a half, +which we secured.</p> +<p>About a mile further, on the right hand, as we ascend the +river, is the mouth of the river Ant, leading to Barton Broad and +Statham, of which more anon.</p> +<p>“The river is getting uncommonly pretty,” said +Wynne, “and this slow tacking enables me to see it to +advantage, eh! How close we steer to the fishing boats! +and, pray tell me, why do fishermen in Norfolk wear such +extraordinary hats! Here is another dyke. Can we sail +down it?”</p> +<p>“If we only drew four feet of water, we could go on to +Ranworth Broad.”</p> +<p>“Then, on my next cruise here, I will get a yacht that +does not draw more than a wherry does. It is absurd to have +such deep draught yachts where there are so many shallows. +Let us row down.”</p> +<p><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +60</span>Ranworth Broad is a very pretty Broad, but grown up so +that it is divided into two. The eastern half is navigable +to the village of Ranworth, but otherwise private, as is the +other portion of the Broad. This is very strictly +preserved, on account of the wild fowl which frequent it. +It is a favourite fishing place, although permission has first to +be obtained from the owner, who, however, cannot be expected to +give leave indiscriminately. It is not worth while seeking +to fish in private waters in this district, for other fish than +pike, seeing that the free fishing in the rivers is as good as +any one could wish for. From the eastern part of the Broad, +a very pretty picture, with the church in the background, on a +wooded height, is visible.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p60.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Horning Village" +title= +"Horning Village" +src="images/p60.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Then to Horning Ferry, where, as we approached, a horse and +cart were being ferried across, and we had to <a +name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>lie to for a +few minutes, until the huge raft was safely across, and the chain +lowered. The public-house at the ferry is a very +comfortable one, with a nice sitting-room and garden in front, +and is a capital place to make one’s head-quarters. +It is about nine miles drive from Norwich, and four from Wroxham +railway station. A little further on is Horning village, a +picturesque group of houses, straggling along the river bank, +with a large windmill on the hill behind, making a good +picture. Here our ears were greeted with the song which, +for generations past, the small children of the village have +chanted to passing yachts—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Ho! John Barleycorn: Ho! John +Barleycorn,<br /> +All day long I raise my song<br /> +To old John Barleycorn.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>That is all. It is simple and effective, and extracts +coins from too easily pleased holiday-makers.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p60a.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Ranworth Church" +title= +"Ranworth Church" +src="images/p60a.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The river turns to the left, at right angles to its former +course, as it passes the village, and on the north bank is a +reedy sheet of water, called Hoveton Little Broad, where there is +a small colony of the black-headed gulls. On the south side +is a small, but pretty Broad, called the Decoy Broad. Then +the river turns still more sharply to the left, and we sailed due +south, after having come due north by Horning.</p> +<p>“What a number of anglers there are!” said Wynne, +“and the singular thing is, that they always seem to be +catching fish.—How many have you caught?” he called +out to two fishermen in a boat.</p> +<p><a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +62</span>“About six stone, sir,” was the reply; +“but we have been at it since daylight, and they bite very +slow.”</p> +<p>“I must say I think Norfolk a very favoured county, with +all these splendid rivers and free fishing; and one place seems +as good as another.”</p> +<p>“Yes, as long as you pick deepish water, and get under a +lee.”</p> +<p>“Do they groundbait the place where they +fish?”</p> +<p>“Not before they come, but while fishing they throw in a +good deal of meal, mixed with water and clay. If they were +to groundbait one or two suitable places on both sides of the +river, so as to be sure of getting a lee, for a day or two before +they fish, they ought to get even more than they do now. +Here is a boat-load trailing for jack. Ask how many they +have caught.”</p> +<p>Wynne did so, and the reply was, “Fifteen, but all +small: they run from two pounds up to seven.”</p> +<p>“People here either fish for pike with a live bait or +trail with a spoon. You rarely see anybody spinning by +casting, or even using a dead bait on a spinning flight. +Now, I know that in the hands of one or two people, a paternoster +has proved very deadly. With three large minnows on your +tackle, and roving about close to the bank, you may get many pike +and perch.”</p> +<p>“I’ll try it in the morning before +breakfast,” said Wynne.</p> +<p>In another mile the river again turns westward. On the +north is a very large Broad, called Hoveton Great <a +name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>Broad, whence +comes the clangour of a large colony of black-headed gulls. +The Broad is not navigable for anything of greater draught than a +small sailing boat; and now all access to it has been barred by +chains across the dykes, and it is strictly preserved, chiefly in +consequence, it is said, of the disturbance of the gulls by +visitors. The gulls flew, screaming, overhead, in a white +cloud, so that the air seemed filled with them, and the +half-grown young ones floated on the water, as lightly as +thistle-down. Although this colony is nothing like so large +as the famous one at Scoulton Mere, near Hingham, in Norfolk, yet +it is extremely interesting, and particularly when the eggs are +being hatched off, and the little fluffy brown balls, which +represent the young birds, are running and creeping about the +reeds and grasses, and swimming in and out of the water-divided +tussocks. Air and water and grasses seem thrilling with +abundant life, and the ear is deafened with abundant noise; a +noise, however, which, discordant as it is, has for a naturalist +the music of the nightingale. The water is very shallow at +the east end, where the gulls are, but the soft mud is of an +exceeding great depth.</p> +<p>Some years ago the American weed, <i>Anacharis +alsinastrum</i>, that pest of our inland waters, so completely +filled this Broad, that a duck could walk upon the surface. +It then suddenly decayed, at the same time poisoning the fish so +that they died by thousands. Since this time the Broad has +been comparatively free from it.</p> +<p><a name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>During +Wynne’s visit the Broad was still open, and we visited it +in the jolly. After rowing about for some time, we turned +to go back to the yacht, and Wynne said, “I don’t see +the sails of the yacht anywhere. Where can she have +disappeared to? I know that the river is over there, +because there is the sail of a wherry over the reeds, but there +is no channel through the reeds, and it is no use your rowing +that way. You have lost your way, my boy.”</p> +<p>We only laughed at him and rowed on.</p> +<p>“I tell you that there is no way into the river +here. Oh, yes, there is; I beg your pardon, but I should +have rowed about until doomsday before I found the way +off.”</p> +<p>“And you couldn’t have landed, for I don’t +think there is a bit of solid ground all round the Broad. +But where is the yacht?” For there was no sign of +her.</p> +<p>The wide opening on the opposite side of the river suggested +that perhaps the man had taken her on to Salhouse Broad. So +we rowed on, disturbing a kingfisher, which was perched on a +bullrush, and there was a picture. Wynne cried, +“<span class="smcap">Oh</span>!” with delight, and, +although I have seen the like so many times, the scene is always +fresh in its beauty. On the placid bosom of the small lake +the yacht lay motionless, while a pair of swans, with their brood +of cygnets, swam near her. Outside the ever-present +boundary of green reeds, was a darker circle of trees, and crowds +of yellow lilies made a bright bit of colour in the +foreground. On the further <a name="page65"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 65</span>shore was a thatched boat-house, and +behind it a wooded bank. The thud of the jolly against the +yacht’s side aroused a wild duck; a shoal of rudd broke the +still surface, as they sprang from a pursuing pike, and the +red-and-white cows, which had pushed through the reeds to drink, +stood looking at us contemplatively.</p> +<p>We dropped the anchor, and got tea ready, and Wynne worked +hard at a water-colour sketch, brush in one hand, bread and +butter in the other, palate, plate, and sketch-block mixed up, +and the brush going as often into his teacup as into the mug of +water.</p> +<p>After tea, we landed, and walked into the long and straggling +village of Salhouse, in search of bread and fresh meat, and on +our return, climbed to the top of the bank, whence a fair +prospect met our eyes. At our feet were Salhouse Broad, and +the smaller Broad next to it, which I call Salhouse Little Broad, +a lakelet covered with water lilies; outside these, the sinuous +river, doubling upon itself, as though loth to leave so pleasant +a land; Hoveton Broad to the right, and Wroxham Broad to the +left; many white sails flitting about on the latter, and more +yachts coming slowly up the river.</p> +<p>There is a navigation across Salhouse Broad to Salhouse +Staithe, but the present owner of the Broad discourages sailing +upon it, and the reader is advised not to anchor or moor +there. The old times when one could come and go upon the +Broads as a matter of apparent right are now past.</p> +<p><a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>We went +to Girling’s farm, close by, to get milk, and eggs, and +butter, and I may mention that Mr. Girling has comfortable rooms +to let, suitable for a family, whilst the situation is +unsurpassed for prettiness.</p> +<p>We quanted off the Broad, and found just sufficient air moving +on the river to take us gently on. We had a little surprise +in store for Wynne. As we came up to Wroxham Broad, I asked +him to reach me something out of the cabin. When he was +safe inside, I put the helm up, and we slipped through the +‘gatway’ into the Broad. When Wynne came out of +the cabin, instead of the river banks, he saw the wide-stretching +Broad, the Queen of the Broads, for her beauty, size, and depth +of water combined.</p> +<p>“This is lovely. I had no idea that we had left +the river. What a string of fishing boats! Are they +having a match?”</p> +<p>“Yes. Angling matches are very favourite +amusements here, and the prizes are sometimes valuable, and +sometimes very miscellaneous in their nature. They are very +sociable, well-conducted gatherings, and I think the Norfolk +anglers would meet with old Izaak’s approbation, as being +honest and peaceable men.”</p> +<p>“They all look very happy. But, tell me, are there +always so many yachts here as there are to-day?”</p> +<p>“Not quite. The fact is, there is a regatta of the +Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club here to-morrow, and it is always a +genuine water frolic. This is a favourite <a +name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>place at all +times; Wroxham is only seven miles by rail from Norwich, and the +Broad is only a mile and a half from Wroxham by water.”</p> +<p>We drifted across to the other side of the Broad, and there +dropped our anchor, and made all snug.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p67.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Horning Ferry" +title= +"Horning Ferry" +src="images/p67.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>It was a lovely evening, and yacht after yacht came upon the +Broad, and anchored; anchoring, by the way, meaning, in the +majority of cases, dropping some pigs of ballast overboard, at +the end of a rope, for the mud is so soft that an ordinary anchor +would drag through it. We visited our friends on various +yachts, and then the moon shone so brightly out of a cloudless +sky, that, late as it was, we did not turn in for a long time, +but floated about in the boat, and yarned about old times, until +it was very late indeed.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page68"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 68</span> +<a href="images/hp68.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp68.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VI.<br /> +<span class="smcap">wroxham broad</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc68.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc68.jpg" /> +</a>I had scarcely closed my eyes, it seemed to me, ere I was +awakened by Wynne moving about.</p> +<p>“What are you up to?” I cried.</p> +<p>“I am going to paternoster for perch, and I’ll +take the casting-net to get some small fry.”</p> +<p>“Oh, dear! why can’t you wait until the +morning?”</p> +<p>“It is morning. It is four o’clock and broad +daylight.”</p> +<p>“Then go, and don’t come back until breakfast +time.” And I drew the curtains over the windows, and +tried to think it was quite dark, and to get to sleep again.</p> +<p>On awaking I heard the sound of a piano. My first +thought was, “Where am I?” I found that I was +on the boat, sure enough, and it was seven o’clock. +There was no more sleep for me, for a wherry, fitted up as a +yacht, was lying near, and her crew had not only got a <a +name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 69</span>piano on +board, but played upon it at seven o’clock in the +morning. It is an excellent plan to rig up a wherry in this +way for a cruise, as good accommodation for a large party is +secured, and the interior can be well divided into several +sleeping-rooms. The presence of ladies aboard the wherry, +and up so early, was rather a nuisance, as one had to row away +for one’s dip. Up to eight o’clock, the Broad +is generally sacred to the men, who can take their plunge +overboard with safety.</p> +<p>Presently Wynne came back.</p> +<p>“Well, what have you caught?”</p> +<p>“Two jack, about five pounds each, and three perch, +about a pound each. If I could have got some minnows I +should have done better, but the roach I got were too large for +paternostering, and not lively enough. I got into a row, +too. I found a bow net set among the weeds, and there were +three large tench in it. As I took it up to look at it, its +owner appeared, and slanged me considerably at first; but when he +cooled down, he got talkative, and told me that the reaches of +the river by Salhouse and Hoveton Broads are the best for pike, +but that all the way down to Horning Ferry is good. By the +way, I saw a lot of boats fishing on the Broad when I set out, +and they went on to the river when they saw me. The Broad +is not preserved, is it?”</p> +<p>“No; but one of the owners, Mr. Chamberlin, levies a tax +of 2s. 6d. on fishermen, and as it goes to the Norfolk and +Norwich Hospital, one ought to pay it <a name="page70"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 70</span>willingly. Poor men can’t +pay it, so they fish on the Broad in the early morning, and then +leave for the river. They walk here from Norwich, +overnight, and begin to fish before daylight, and as they can get +a boat at Wroxham for a shilling a day, it is not an expensive +pastime for them.”</p> +<p>“I saw some notice boards at Salhouse, but there was so +much on them, and the letters were so small, that I could not +read them, but I suppose they were meant to warn people +off.”</p> +<p>“Yes, there is unfortunately too great a disposition +amongst owners to try and close the Broads against the fishing +public, and even to interfere with the old navigation rights, but +there are praiseworthy exceptions, and here comes one, the owner +of this end of Wroxham Broad.” <a name="citation70"></a><a +href="#footnote70" class="citation">[70]</a></p> +<p><a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>As the +sun rose higher, so it grew hotter in too great a ratio, and the +breeze was too light to afford much excitement in the way of +racing. Still, it was a wonderfully pretty sight, such as +could be seen on no other English inland water, save Windermere: +the yachts, too, are very much like the Windermere yachts, but +carry even more canvas than the latter do. The following +are the dimensions of a 10-tonner of that time: length on keel, +25 feet; over all, 34 feet; beam, 10 feet. Ordinary canvas +would be, mainsail luff, 23 feet; head, 28 feet 6 inches; foot, +35 feet, and leech, 42 feet; jib, leech, 23 feet; foot, 36 feet; +and luff, 48 feet, with a topsail yard of 23 feet. For +racing, these dimensions are largely increased. For fast +sailing and quick turning to windward, these boats are justly +celebrated, but the Broads are so rapidly growing shallower, that +their draught, about five feet, closes many of the Broads to +them. A much more sensible type of a large boat for <a +name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>pure comfort +in cruising (though not for sport in sailing) is one founded on +the wherry plan, with a large mainsail, and drawing not more than +three feet of water. For such boats under 10 tons, the +“Una” type is the best. Its shallow draught +would enable it, with the centre-board up, to go anywhere, and +penetrate into the most charming recesses of this wild country, +which the deeper yacht can never see. Its beam gives +safety, and also minimises the inconvenience of the centre-board +case in the cabin, and a high booby hatch would give +head-room. The one sail is very handy, and if her owner has +but ordinary skill and energy, he could sail her alone, and so +dispense with the expense of keeping a man. Without this +expense, yachting in these waters is a reasonable and very cheap +amusement. These remarks are for the benefit of the great +number of people who have written to me at one time or another, +to know what facilities for economical boat-sailing and living +exist in these waters. For fast sailing and ease of +handling by a <i>skilled</i> person, the present improved type of +sloop or cutter cannot be surpassed on any waters.</p> +<p>Well, 10-tonners and 4-tonners, open cutter-rigged +sailing-boats of a very fast type, canoes with battened sails, +luggers and boats, and wherries sailed to and fro, and steam +launches puffed noisily about, and marred the beauty of the +scene, as well as upset the glasses and dishes of breakfast or +luncheon by the swell which they caused. The people paid +very little attention to the <a name="page73"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 73</span>racing, but set themselves heartily +to enjoy this great water picnic.</p> +<p>Wynne went ashore, and discovered some pretty woodland vistas, +with glimpses of the Broad, and the glancing sails between leafy +boughs of oaks, and under lofty arms of Scotch firs. Also, +he discovered that at the farm at the lower end of the Broad, +Mrs. Newman’s, there were rooms to let, and that an artist +friend of his had taken them, so there he stayed for a long time, +and kept the jolly, in spite of vigorous hails for it.</p> +<p>Of the adventurous journeys of yachts up to divers Wroxham +Regattas, of the exploits of elated yachtsmen, and the mishaps of +careless ones, of the fun and merriment attendant on these annual +gatherings, the writer has written in another place. At +present, we must hurry on.</p> +<p>In the evening we sailed, or rather quanted, up to the +Bridge. These reaches of the river were lovely in the +extreme. The clear and brimming river reflected the +marginal flowers and groups of trees, while acres of marsh shone +with the yellow iris flowers. But, alas! the woods and the +sloping fields kept off the wind, and made one wish that the +<i>upper</i> entrance to the Broad were widened and made +navigable.</p> +<p>We came to the Bridge at last, and moored to the bank, +watching the homeward-bound holiday makers arrive in yachts, and +boats, and wherries; a goodly number of the latter having +numerous passengers.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p74.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Belaugh Church" +title= +"Belaugh Church" +src="images/p74.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>Wroxham +has two decent inns, where good boats and bait may be +obtained—Jimpson’s (the “King’s +Head”), and Whittaker’s, the former the largest, but +both comfortable.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page75"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 75</span> +<a href="images/hp75.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Chapter Header" +title= +"Chapter Header" +src="images/hp75.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VII.<br /> +<span class="smcap">wroxham to coltishall</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc75.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc75.jpg" /> +</a>The bridge at Wroxham is very narrow and low. The mast, +of course, had to be lowered, and the yacht quanted under the +road and railway bridges. A wherry passing under raised her +mast too soon, and damaged the ornamental vane, which consisted +of the inevitable figure of a Welsh girl with a high hat and +holding a bunch of leeks.</p> +<p>“There, I must have a new Welsh girl,” said the +wherryman.</p> +<p>“Why is such an emblem chosen in Norfolk, of all +places?” asked Wynne.</p> +<p>“Some thirty years ago there was a wherry named after +the famous Jenny Morgan of the song, and she had such a +vane. It took the fancy of the wherrymen to such an extent +that they all adopted it in the course of time.”</p> +<p>The river here is very narrow, and Wynne, who was <a +name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 76</span>steering, put +the yacht “on the putty” twice, before he could be +induced to give up the helm to the man, who professed to know the +exact depth of every part of the river. The river makes a +very long loop to the south, just above Wroxham. In this +loop is Belaugh Broad, said to hold some very large carp, but it +is preserved. On the neck of the loop, on a high bank, +stands Belaugh Church, a prominent object for some miles, as you +follow the river. It is very picturesquely situated, and +the view from it is characteristic. Close by the church is +a draw-well, with a pent-house over it, well worth +sketching. There is a pretty backwater, or old channel of +the river, near here, called “Little Switzerland,” +which is worth rowing up, but unfortunately the owner objects +even to artists visiting it, and hence it must be considered as +sacred ground.</p> +<p>It came on to blow very hard, as we finished the three-mile +loop of river, half a mile from where we entered it, and as the +wind was fair, the corners sharp, and the river narrow, we +lowered the mainsail, and ran up under the jib alone, to +Coltishall, where we at once made a rush for the butcher’s, +just in time to secure a piece of meat for our dinner to-morrow, +which, being Sunday, we intended to spend at Coltishall. +The village is superior to most Norfolk villages, and contains +some old houses with rounded gables, and a fine church.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p77.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Dyke Near Coltishall" +title= +"Dyke Near Coltishall" +src="images/p77.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The great business of the place is malting, and many men +labour as maltsters in winter and boat-builders in <a +name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>summer, so +that summer is the time to get a boat built at Coltishall, when +either Allen or Collins will build you one at a reasonable +rate.</p> +<p>The fishing is very good in this portion of the river, and +there are great numbers of jack here, although they run rather +small. In the spawning season, the bream head up here in +large numbers, and as there is no close season in Norfolk, many +anglers follow them up.</p> +<p>The first lock on this river is just above the village, and on +the bye-stream stands Horstead mill, a very fine specimen of the +Norfolk water-mill. It stands upon <a +name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>arches, and +the stream runs under it, the wheels, of course, being +undershot. It makes a very effective picture, seen from +below, and, in fact, if you row your jolly up the left-hand +stream, as you go up, you will see very many lovely bits worth +the painter’s attention. I have photographed some of +them, as I can’t sketch, but photographs cannot depict the +colour. It is in the soft living light of these Norfolk +scenes that their chief beauty lies, but they cannot be depicted +without the aid of colour, and only imperfectly then.</p> +<p>The river is navigable for wherries and yachts drawing but +little water, right up to Aylsham, some eleven miles further; but +there are two more locks before reaching Aylsham.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p78.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Ludham Bridge" +title= +"Ludham Bridge" +src="images/p78.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Coltishall is accessible by rail from Norwich, being the next +station to Wroxham, and lodgings are obtainable there. The +jack fishing is very good all the way.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page79"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 79</span> +<a href="images/p79.jpg"> +<img alt= +"River Bure—Hautbois" +title= +"River Bure—Hautbois" +src="images/p79.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page81"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 81</span> +<a href="images/hp81.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp81.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII.<br /> +<span class="smcap">up the ant, to barton and +stalham</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc81.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc81.jpg" /> +</a>Wynne had undertaken the office of steward, and so far we had +fared sumptuously, but as we were tidying up on Monday morning, +the fact became apparent that the provision lockers were nearly +empty.</p> +<p>“The fact is,” he said, “I thought there +would be a better chance of buying things, as we went along, than +there appears to be, for with the exception of butter and eggs, +we might as well be on the prairies. What shall we +do?”</p> +<p>Now, provisioning is a very perplexing thing, particularly +when it is for several days, and as I knew that at Norwich +made-up hampers of provisions for fishing-parties could be +obtained, we telegraphed for one to be sent to us at Wroxham +station, and departed in hope, with a light but fair wind. +We trailed a pike-bait behind, and caught several jack, and two +or three good <a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +82</span>perch. We were three hours getting to Wroxham, and +while the mast was being lowered, Wynne went to the station to +meet a train then coming in. He returned in glee with a +hamper of good things, and our difficulty was at end. Once +we spent a Sunday at Wroxham, with nothing procurable to eat but +biscuits, and once, at Barton, we were obliged to fish for our +meals. Meat so soon goes bad on board a boat, and one does +not always care for tinned things. A good wrinkle is to +have a bottle containing a strong solution of permanganate of +potash on board, and then a few drops placed in a pint of water +will make a most efficient deodorising liquid, with which you may +safely sprinkle the meat, and wash out the lockers.</p> +<p>As the day advanced, the breeze got up, and by two +o’clock we were at the mouth of the river Ant, ten miles +from Wroxham.</p> +<p>As we turned up its narrow and shallow waters, our man +said,</p> +<p>“We shan’t get very far up this river, sir, with a +craft drawing so much water as this.”</p> +<p>“No, but we can get to Ludham Bridge, and there I have +arranged for an old lateener to be waiting for us.”</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p82a.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Woodland Pool—Irstead" +title= +"Woodland Pool—Irstead" +src="images/p82a.jpg" /> +</a>We touched the ground several times before we got to the +bridge, about a mile up, thus showing that a very fine Broad is +practically closed to the possessor of a large yacht of the usual +type. We left the yacht below the bridge in charge of the +man, and Wynne and I <a name="page83"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 83</span>transferred ourselves on board a +six-ton lateener, very broad and very shallow, with bluff bows; a +boat sixty years old, if a day, only drawing about two feet of +water. She had an enormous lateen foresail, and a mizen, +and she subsequently formed a picturesque object in Wynne’s +sketches. A wherry was coming through the low and narrow +bridge, and, as the water was high, she had some difficulty in +doing it.</p> +<p>The wind was fair for a large portion of the way, and we +bowled along very fast. Where it was ahead, owing to a bend +in the river, there was no room to tack, and one of us would jump +ashore with a line, and tow. The Ant is just like a canal, +except that it has no tow-path. The fishing in it is +remarkably good, particularly at Irstead shoals, where there is a +stretch of water about half a mile long, with an even depth of +four to five feet, and a firm, level, pebbly bottom, a curiosity +in this land of boggy streams. This is an excellent spot +for perch and pike. It is marked by the presence of a +church on the western bank, and is one of the few places on these +waters where a person who cannot swim can bathe with safety or +comfort. The muddy bottom, of course, prohibits +wading. As you approach the entrance to Barton Broad, the +bottom becomes muddy again, and the Broad itself is full of mud; +there being large “hills” where the water is not more +than two feet deep. The navigable channels wind between +these hills, and are marked out by posts. The Broad is a +mile long, and very pretty, <a name="page84"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 84</span>and the entrance to it is four and a +half miles from the mouth of the Ant. In our light-draught +lateener, we ignored the channels, and sped about all over, +often, however, finding our speed diminished, as the keel cut +through the soft mud, and turned up yellow volumes of mud +behind. It is a curious fact that in some Broads and +portions of Broads, the mud is of a light yellow colour, and in +other portions black. As all this mud is the result of +decayed vegetation, this difference is singular.</p> +<p>There is an artificial island in the Broad, where a picnic +party were then enjoying themselves. We sailed away into +the long bight which leads towards Neatishead, where the bowery +woods, fringing the water, spoke of welcome shade, but we were +brought to a stop by the mud, and had some difficulty in getting +back. On this very lovely Broad, we found we had much +better stick to the channels, which were wide enough, and explore +the shallows in the jolly. The fishing here is remarkably +good. I do not think any objection is made to angling for +coarse fish, but permission must be obtained for pike +fishing. The Broad, though the water is fresh, is affected +by the rise and fall of the tide. Going on one night in the +dark, I missed the channel, and ran so hard on to a +“hill,” that in the morning when the tide was at its +height, we had to lay the yacht on her side by means of lines and +tackles to the nearest channel posts ere we could float her +off. The Broad is easy of access, <a +name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>by going to +Stalham railway station, and hiring boats at Stalham, whence a +row of about two miles will bring you on to the Broad.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p85.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Entrance—Barton Broad" +title= +"Entrance—Barton Broad" +src="images/p85.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>At the north end of the Broad, a wide dyke leads +northwards. This divides into two about a mile from the +Broad; the left-hand one leads to Dilham and North Walsham, +becoming a canal, with locks and water-mills. We took the +right-hand one, and on coming to another sub-division, took the +left-hand one, the right leading to a grown-up piece of water, +known as Sutton Broad. The course we chose led us over +Stalham Broad, which, though marked on maps as a piece of open +water, now only consists of a tract of marsh, with a dyke kept +open through it. Stalham is at the end of this dyke. +Here there are two good inns, the “Swan,” and the +“Maid’s Head,” and there are plenty of good +boats for hire at the waterside. Stalham has a station on +the Yarmouth and North Norfolk Railway, and as a fishing station +is considered very good.</p> +<p>We caught a pike in the dyke, at luncheon time (ours as well +as his), and a big fellow of about fourteen pounds in weight was +said to haunt the spot. We saw a large fish strike at some +roach, but he would not look at our spinning-bait. Within +sight of the dyke end is a tumble-down house, with a thatched +roof, broken-backed, and altogether so jumbled and +ancient-looking, that it makes a capital subject for a +sketch.</p> +<p>In the afternoon we sailed quietly back to the cutter, <a +name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>and took both +boats back to the Bure, and down it to St. Benet’s Abbey, +which we reached by moonlight.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p88.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Carp" +title= +"Carp" +src="images/p88.jpg" /> +</a>Wynne had taken a great fancy to the lateener, which had been +lent to me by a friend, and as we wished to explore the Broads +about Hickling, all too shallow for the cutter, we decided to +take both yachts up the Thurne to Heigham Bridges, and leave the +cutter there, while we took the lateener up on the wide, wild +waters above the bridge. The next morning we devoted to +pike fishing, at the mouth of the Thurne, getting our bait with a +casting-net. We got up very early, and were moored in a +convenient spot, and all rigged up ready to start before the mist +had risen off the water. I do not intend to go into the +details of our sport, which was not out of the way, but by one +o’clock we got six pike, from four to ten pounds in weight, +and put back four under-sized fish. This was with live +bait, without moving more than one hundred yards from the same +spot.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p88a.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Carrying reeds, Barton" +title= +"Carrying reeds, Barton" +src="images/p88a.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page89"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 89</span> +<a href="images/p89.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Barton Staithe" +title= +"Barton Staithe" +src="images/p89.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page90"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 90</span> +<a href="images/p90.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Stalham Dyke" +title= +"Stalham Dyke" +src="images/p90.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page91"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 91</span> +<a href="images/hp91.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp91.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IX.<br /> +<span class="smcap">womack broad</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc91.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc91.jpg" /> +</a>Being tired of fishing, we had a swim, and then dinner; and, +late in the afternoon, we hoisted sail, to a stiff breeze, Wynne +and the man in the cutter, and I in the lateener. They ran +away from me so quickly, however, that I could not stop them at +the entrance to Womack <a name="citation91"></a><a +href="#footnote91" class="citation">[91]</a> Broad, as I had +intended, and was obliged to go in chase of them up to Heigham +Bridges. The round, bluff bows of my old lateener, designed +to support the heavy mast, which raked forward over them, made +such a hollow in the water, and raised such a big wave, that +sailing very fast was impossible. As it was, the nose of +the boat sank so that it seemed as if she must run under, a fate +not uncommon with lateeners, when running before a stiff +breeze. It was this peculiarity of theirs, combined with +the large foreyard, more than twice the length of the boat <a +name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>which caused +the rig to fall into disuse. For turning to windward, +however, they are uncommonly handy, and easily managed +single-handed. The Thurne is a fairly wide stream, with +deep water, so that you can tack close up to the banks. It +is four miles from the mouth of the Thurne to Heigham Bridges, +and the cutter was there ten minutes before me.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p92.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Drainage Mill—River Thurne" +title= +"Drainage Mill—River Thurne" +src="images/p92.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>“I say, Wynne, I wanted you to stop at that dyke, half +way up, but I could not make you hear me. There is a +charming little Broad there, called Womack Broad, and a picture +ready composed, so bring your paint-box, and we will beat back in +the lateen.”</p> +<p>We reached the dyke in half an hour, tacking in that narrow +channel with great celerity.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p93.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The River Thurne" +title= +"The River Thurne" +src="images/p93.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>“This boat turns more quickly than the cutter, I think; +at all events, there is less trouble in managing <a +name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>her,” +said Wynne. “Do you know that I think a fine-bowed +lugger, with main and mizen rig, would be a handy boat for these +waters.”</p> +<p>“Some of the old lateeners have been turned into +luggers, and sail very well. Here is the dyke, nearly a +mile long, and fringed with ferns and flowers, reeds and +bulrushes, iris and forget-me-nots.”</p> +<p>“Here comes a wherry. What shall we do? +There is no room to pass.”</p> +<p>“We must go to windward of her, or her sail will take +the mast out of us. Here is a place made wide to admit of +wherries passing, and we can hold on here until she gets +by. There, that was a tight fit.”</p> +<p>The boat sailor must be very careful to keep to windward of +the wherries in narrow waters, as their huge gaffs and sails take +up a great deal of room, and if they catch your mast, they may +carry it away, or capsize you. It is still more important +not to get across the bows of a wherry, as she would get the best +of the encounter, and a small yacht very much the worst of +it. It is not often that accidents happen through any +collision, but occasionally the crew of a row-boat get bewildered +and row across the bows of a wherry, sailing fast, and a day of +pleasure is turned into mourning. A special Providence +seems to watch over amateur boat-sailors, and it is marvellous to +see how they come unharmed out of predicaments which seem most +serious. The wherries are sailed remarkably well, and you +can generally rely <a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +96</span>on their carefulness, so that you may sail your yacht +rigidly according to the rule of the road. One thing should +be remembered, the wherry’s sailing is a matter of +business, and the yachtsman’s is a matter of pleasure only; +therefore, it is well to give way to a wherry, if there is any +doubt on the point, and not hamper her unnecessarily.</p> +<p>The dyke we were then sailing down is about a mile long, +leading westward to Womack Broad, which was once a nice sheet of +water, but is very rapidly growing up, each year seeing an +accretion to the growth of spongy marsh, and an additional layer +of mud on the bottom. At present, the channel is navigable +for wherries, which ply to Ludham village, at the further end of +it.</p> +<p>On the right-hand side, as we entered the Broad, is a bit of +an old-world picture: a boat-builder’s shed, large and old, +and of picturesque construction, stands on the margin, amid low +bushes and under the shade of mighty trees. Beneath it is a +large boat, of an age and type unknown, and a wherry sleepily +awaiting repair. Behind the boat-house is a barn, whose +high-thatched roof is shaded by the branches of a cherry +tree. By the side of the boat-shed is a dyke, where sundry +small craft are ensconced. Behind all, and peeping out of a +garden run wild, are low, thatched cottages, and scattered about, +among the tall grasses, are trunks of trees, curved +“knees” of oak, suitable for boat-building, and +broken-up boats and punts. On the still water in front is +<a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>moored a +floating eel-fisher’s hut, and all around is the sense of +the repose of the past. The former busy life has left its +emblems resting in acquiescence with the fate which contracts the +sphere of their usefulness, day by day, and year by year, as the +vegetation slowly, but surely, drives out the water. That +dense growth of reeds lies upon a skim of soil which would not +bear the weight of a dog, and now undulates with the movement of +the water, but in three years’ time it may bear the weight +of a man.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p97.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Gudgeon" +title= +"Gudgeon" +src="images/p97.jpg" /> +</a>An old man who lives near there, grumbles because the artists +come and paint his cottage and broad, and take away pounds’ +worth of sketches, and never think of sending him a picture in +acknowledgment.</p> +<p>It was a lotos lake to us that afternoon. Wynne painted, +and I fished, and we sailed back to Heigham Bridges by +moonlight.</p> +<p>Womack Broad is not shown upon some maps and charts, but those +who are susceptible to a lovely scene should not pass it by.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page98"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 98</span> +<a href="images/hp98.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp98.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER X.<br /> +<span class="smcap">hickling broad</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc98.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc98.jpg" /> +</a>Heigham Bridge is a small stone one, with not much room to +get through, and a little above it is the railway bridge, over +which the Eastern and Midlands Railway runs, with a station not +far off—Potter Heigham. Near the station is the +“Falgate” Inn, where there is comfortable +accommodation. A gate hangs over the inn by way of a sign, +and on its bars is inscribed the following—</p> +<blockquote><p>“This gate hang high<br /> +But hinder none,<br /> +Refresh and pay<br /> +And travel on,”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The omission of the <i>s</i> in the third person singular of +the verb is truly Norfolk, and common even among the middle +classes. At the bridge is the “Waterman’s +Arms,” where one or two bedrooms, and a small parlour, all +scrupulously clean, are obtainable. Just by the bridge, in +a sort of wooden “Peggoty’s Hut,” lives +Applegate, <a name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +99</span>who has good boats, sailing and rowing, for hire, stowed +away in a remarkably neat boat-house. The fishing all round +is as good as it can be, and I never fail to get a jack near the +bridge, while, within four miles lie Hickling and Somerton +Broads, Heigham Sounds, and Horsey Mere. For myself, I +should prefer this as a fishing and boating station, to any +other, because of the wildness of the district.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p98a.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Hickling Broad" +title= +"Hickling Broad" +src="images/p98a.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The tide ebbs and flows strongly; and I caught Wynne standing +on the bridge, and looking in a perplexed way at the rate the +perfectly fresh water of the river was running up stream. +The exit of these waters—at Yarmouth—was twenty miles +away, by water; Heigham Bridge is only between four and five +miles from the sea, in a direct line, and the water was now +running eastward, towards the sea, and the lakes, which daily +rise and fall, though only a few inches, actuated by the salt +tide, “so near, and yet so far.”</p> +<p>“Verily, this is a strange country,” said Wynne, +“and not, I should think, beyond the possibility of a +sudden visit from the sea.”</p> +<p>“No, those light-coloured mounds in the distance are the +sea-banks, of sand, only held together by scanty marram +grasses. We will pay them a closer visit.”</p> +<p>We got the lateener through the bridges, taking sufficient +things for a night’s absence, and sailed away up the +Thurne, which seems now to lose its name as a river, and take +that of the “Hundred Stream.” About half a <a +name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>mile above +the railway bridge is the mouth of Kendal, or Candler’s, +Dyke, a narrow winding stream, up which we turned, soon to find +ourselves bordered by tall reeds on either hand, and then sailing +through a wilderness of water and reeds so tall that they bounded +our view. This is Heigham Sounds, now greatly overgrown, +and a capital place for wild fowl; also for rudd, which here +attain a very large size, and go in immense shoals. Out of +the channel the water is extremely shallow. In the channel, +particularly in Kendal Dyke, I have caught a good number of +pike.</p> +<p>The fishing on all these Broads—Hickling, Horsey, and +the Sounds—is nominally preserved, but fair anglers do not +seem to be interfered with. At all events, in the channel +and the dykes one may pretty well do as one likes, and no attempt +has ever been made to set up an exclusive right to the +rivers. I note that a Fishery Preservation Society has been +formed to abolish illegal netting, and to overlook this district, +and under the auspices of this it is probable that riparian +owners will not object to anglers taking a share of the +superabundant fish out of the Broads. I call the fish +superabundant advisedly, and will adhere to the term until +anglers can assure me that they know what to do (usefully) with +the number of fish they catch, and cease from throwing them away +on the bank, after ascertaining their weight and number.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p101.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Dyke at Potter Heigham" +title= +"Dyke at Potter Heigham" +src="images/p101.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Well, we sailed as close to the wind as we could—and <a +name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>nothing +goes closer than a lateener—and could just lie the channel +through another reedy lake, called Whiteslea, on to the vast +expanse of Hickling Broad, a lake 400 acres in extent, and +looking three times as large, owing to the extreme lowness of its +shores, the absence of any landmarks, and the great concave sky, +which seems to fit close down all around it. A channel +across it is marked by posts, which we left to starboard, as we +sailed over it. The width of the channel you will have to +determine by experiment, as there is no guide. At a guess, +it is twenty yards wide, and all the rest of the Broad is so +shallow that you might wade over it, and find a hard, yellow, +gravel bottom almost everywhere. Trusting in our two-feet +draught, we sailed hither and thither, and felt our way checked, +as the keel cut through masses of weed, and then the bound +forward, as the boat entered a part clear of weeds. These +bunches of weed have lately increased greatly in Hickling Broad, +which used to be comparatively free from them, and the +promontories of reeds are pushing themselves further and further +into the lake, and the bays between are getting shallower. +Still, the lake is large enough, as yet, to be able to stand a +little filching from.</p> +<p>We sailed down to Catfield staithe, on the western side of the +Broad, and not far from Catfield railway station, on the line +already alluded to. Then we went to Hickling staithe, at +the north end, where there is an inn, the “Pleasure +Boat,” and walked into the village to post letters, and to +receive some.</p> +<p><a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 104</span>Boats +of a rough kind can be obtained here for fishing purposes. +They are long, narrow, and flat-bottomed, and the usual method of +propulsion is by “<i>setting</i>.” The setter +sits in the extreme stern, and pushes the boat along with a light +pole, at a great rate. There are often setting races at +local regattas, and great fun they are.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p104.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Hickling Staithe" +title= +"Hickling Staithe" +src="images/p104.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The number of broken-up lateeners on the shores of the Broad +attest the decay of large pleasure-boat sailing on these remote +waters, but the smaller class of centre-board boats are coming +into favour, and are, perhaps, more suitable.</p> +<p>After lunch we had to reef the great foresail, which was not +an easy operation, as the reef was taken in along the yard, and +we had to go into the jolly boat to get to <a +name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>the end of +it. The jolly boat committed a joke its species is very +fond of, under similar circumstances; that is, it slipped away +from under one of us, and left him clinging to the yard, with his +legs in the water.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p105.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Martham Broad" +title= +"Martham Broad" +src="images/p105.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>I shall never forget three days I spent, on Whiteslea and +Heigham Sound, for the fishing and fowling, one December with a +friend. I stayed in the little cottage on the small island +in Whiteslea. We had two boats and two men to attend to us +during the day, but at night we were left to ourselves in the +lonely house, where the water oozed through the floor, and the +beds were so damp that I slept completely clothed in my +oilies. There was a bitter north-easter sweeping over the +dry reeds under a leaden sky, and the sport was of the +slowest. I never felt the cold so much, accustomed though I +am to winter pike-fishing.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page106"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 106</span> +<a href="images/hp106.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp106.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XI.<br /> +<span class="smcap">horsey mere and somerton broad</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc106.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc106.jpg" /> +</a>It was exhilarating work sailing over Hickling Broad, and we +were very loth to leave its wind-swept waters. We had a +rare run back along the channel, and over Whiteslea, and then +turned sharp to the left, up the Old Meadow dyke leading to +Horsey Mere. This dyke is a mile long, and of fair depth, +but so narrow that people fishing on the banks had to hold up +their rods as we passed, while our sail swept the tops of the +reeds. Then we shot into Horsey Mere, a lake of 130 acres +in extent, with a small island in the middle. It was very +clear, and very shallow, the channel for wherries lying along the +west side of it, into Palling dyke, which leads north-westward +for several miles until it reaches almost to the sea.</p> +<p>The white sand-hills on the coast were plainly visible, and +the thunder of the surf was audible, as the sea was <a +name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>but a mile +and a half away. We did what nearly every one else does who +visits Horsey in a yacht; landed at the east end of it, and +walked to the coast, but it was too rough to bathe. These +sand-hills form a very curious barrier between the salt and fresh +water. They are steep and high, and make one wonder by what +force of wind and waves they attained their present shape and +dimensions, in so flat a country, and why the like forces do not +dissipate them over the plain. Breaches have been made in +them by the sea, from time to time, notably in the winter of +1791, when a very high tide made several gaps, and threatened to +overwhelm the marshes inland.</p> +<p>“I like this Mere as well as any of the Broads,” +said Wynne, when we returned to the yacht. “It is so +very still and lonely, and its quiet is in such contrast to the +roar and unrest of the sea close by. Is the fishing free +here?”</p> +<p>“No, it is supposed to be preserved, though I +don’t suppose anyone will object to our catching a pike for +supper, if you wish. There are no pike like those in +Horsey, the proverb says.”</p> +<p>But the wind had fallen as suddenly as it arose, and the +glamour of a fiery sunset shone over the silent mere. An +occasional cry of coot, or duck, or splash of fish, and the +distant sound of the sea, but emphasized the stillness around +us. We sat on the cabin roof, and talked lazily, as the +dusk came slowly on, and our voices were low, in unison with the +evening hush.</p> +<p><a name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +108</span>“I do not wonder,” said Wynne, “that +you are so fond of these waters. An evening like this, in +such watery solitude, makes a strong impression upon +one.”</p> +<p>Horsey Mere is only accessible by water. There is a +railway station—Martham—about four miles off, but if +you walked from there you could get no sight of the Broad without +a boat, and boats are not procurable.</p> +<p>“What are these cushions stuffed with?” asked +Wynne, as we lay down for the night.</p> +<p>“Horse-hair, I expect; but then age has made them hard +and crabbed.”</p> +<p>“Well, I think that the sleeping accommodation might be +vastly improved in your Norfolk boats generally. Canvas +cots or hammocks, air beds and pillows, would all be better than +the thin cushions there are in the cutter. I +sha’n’t sleep to-night, for I have pins and needles +all over me already.”</p> +<p>And in five minutes he was snoring! One could sleep on a +deal plank, or even on an oak one, after a few days and nights on +the Broads.</p> +<p>We woke very early in the morning, and found that a brisk +breeze had sprung up, and that the lateener had dragged her +moorings and drifted into the reeds. She had taken no harm, +for, short of being run down by a wherry, there are no dangers of +shipwreck on the Broads, and you might drift about unmoored, for +all the hurt there is likely to accrue.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p109.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Sound Asleep" +title= +"Sound Asleep" +src="images/p109.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>After a hurried breakfast we hoisted the foresail, and <a +name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>tore down +the dyke into Heigham Sounds, across which we sped fast, throwing +the shallow water into waves, which shook the reeds +mightily. When we emerged from Kendal dyke into the main +stream, we turned to the left, and in less than a mile reached +Martham Ferry, which was stretched across the river while some +wagons were passing across. This ferry is a large raft, +which is kept in a recess on either side of the river, and +floated across, reaching from bank to bank when required. +There is no one to tend it, and if it happens to be on the other +side, a wayfarer must wait until some one appears on the other +side to get it across. It is a wonderfully clumsy thing to +look at, and is not regarded with friendly eyes by the wherrymen, +who run their wherries full tilt against it too often at night, +or when, with the wind astern, they are unable to stop. One +wherryman, exasperated beyond endurance, let his wherry go at it +with all her force when running before half a gale, but only +smashed the bows of his vessel, not moving the ferry a bit or +injuring it, for it is heavily bound with iron to withstand such +experiments.</p> +<p>We sailed to and fro until the wagons had passed, but a wherry +coming up had to lower her sail in a hurry, and then struck the +raft with great force before it could be drawn away. This +jammed it diagonally across the river, and it was half an hour +before it could be moved.</p> +<p>At the other side of the ferry, and at the mouth of a dyke, is +a capital place for pike and large eels, and I <a +name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 112</span>can +conceive of no better-looking pike place than the mile of stream +between here and Somerton or Martham Broad. The water is +deep and clear, with a stratum of lily leaves, about four feet +below the surface, and here and there lilies on the +surface. As we sailed over its glassy surface, not ruffled +by the crossing wind, on account of the high reeds and grasses, +we could see thousands of fish of all sizes darting away beneath +us; and at the end of the main dyke, where it divides into two, +is a deep, clear pool, with a hard, gravelly bottom, where there +are any quantity of perch and large roach. It is the +beau-ideal of a spot for bottom-fishing, but “fine and far +off” must you fish, for the water, though deep, is passing +clear. It is easily accessible from Martham railway +station, and preferably from Potter Heigham, where, too, you +could procure a boat.</p> +<p>The right-hand dyke leads to Somerton Broad, another +reed-surrounded lake, possessing no particular merit. From +Martham ferry we walked up a steep road to the village, lying +around a broad green, and had we time we would have ascended the +tower of the church, which is a conspicuous object for miles, and +from which a splendid view of sea and lake is attainable.</p> +<p>In the church we noted a tablet to one Burraway, whose history +is told there, but is too unpleasant to be more than referred to +here.</p> +<p>After being so long on board a small vessel, one’s legs +become cramped and unfit for walking, and the walk to <a +name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>Martham and +back, only a couple of miles, quite tired us, and we were glad to +get back to our little craft. In half an hour’s time +we were passing under Heigham Bridge, and watching our man +playing a seven-pound pike in the pool below. On the bank, +by the cutter, he had arranged for our inspection a score of +bream, from one pound to three pounds in weight, which he and +another had caught early that morning and the night before.</p> +<p>Before turning our faces again towards Yarmouth, it may be +mentioned that yachts may safely be moored to the bank anywhere +above Acle, care being taken to avoid the obviously shallow +parts.</p> +<p>In many places you will notice the eel-sets, which are fixed +nets across the river for the purpose of intercepting the +silver-bellied eels on their migration to the sea. These +nets are only set at night, and there is a man in charge +(sheltered in a rough sort of house-boat or hut), to lower the +nets when craft are passing, so that they do not obstruct the +navigation. Immense quantities of eels are caught in these +nets, and it has been proved by an inquiry conducted by the Yare +Preservation Society, that other fishes are not caught therein, +and that the sport of the anglers is in no wise interfered +with.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/tp113.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter end" +title= +"Decorative chapter end" +src="images/tp113.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page114"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 114</span> +<a href="images/hp114.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp114.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XII.<br /> +<span class="smcap">back to yarmouth</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc114.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc114.jpg" /> +</a>It was two o’clock when we hoisted a reefed sail on the +cutter, leaving the lateener in charge of the owner, who had +joined us, and it was three o’clock when we reached Acle +bridge, having done the seven miles in the hour, wind and tide +with us. We left Acle at four, being much delayed in +lowering and raising the mast, and reached Yarmouth (12 miles) by +half-past five; so we made a pretty quick passage. We laid +by the “Ale Stores” for the night, and were very +careful to have the yacht strongly moored, for the tide runs +fast. We were interested in the way the wherries dropped +down out of the North River, with lowered masts, and a chain or +weight out over the bows, so as to retard their speed, as they +drifted stern first, steering, of course, by the pressure of the +faster-flowing tide against the rudder. We had intended to +drop down in a similar way, through the swing bridge just below +<a name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 115</span>us, and +to go, by sea, to Lowestoft, a distance of only eight miles; but +as the wind kept getting up, and Breydon was white with foam, we +put off making up our minds until the morning, for the +disproportionate bowsprits and open wells of the river yachts are +not very suitable for sea work.</p> +<p>Of course, we strolled upon the pier, and then returned to the +quay-side by moonlight. We found that it was dead low +water, and that the yacht had receded so much below the level of +the quay, that no plank within reach would touch her. The +man was in the forepeak fast asleep, and it was a long time +before we could wake him, and then we jumped on to some wherries +lying near, and he brought the jolly to us.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p116.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Perch" +title= +"Perch" +src="images/p116.jpg" /> +</a>We woke at times during the night, and felt the boat swaying, +and heard the wind howling in the rigging to a very pretty +tune. In the morning there was no abatement, and although +it was off the land, we shirked the wetting we should get at sea, +and decided to go over Breydon, and up the Waveney. As the +tide would not make until the middle of the morning, we took the +jolly and rowed down to the harbour mouth at Gorleston. It +is interesting to note how, for three miles, the river flows +parallel with the sea, and, on the average, under half a mile +from it, the dividing land being nothing more substantial than +shingle and sand. Deeply interesting is it, also, to read +of the early struggles of the inhabitants of Yarmouth to maintain +a navigable waterway. <a name="page116"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 116</span>Sometimes the river would open a new +outlet for itself, and sometimes they made a new one for it; and, +time after time, the river mouth got silted up with the wearing +away of this soft eastern shore. Even now there is often +insufficient water at the bar for deeply-laden vessels of +ordinary size, and the entrance is particularly unsafe for +sailing vessels to enter unassisted at certain times. +Picturesque sights abound on the river, and the quays. +Fishing smacks taking their brown nets on board from carts ranged +alongside; boats of every form and size hauled up on the beach; +vessels building; and vessels in dry docks, undergoing repairs; a +regular covey of smacks, in tow of a powerful steam tug, and +hundreds of similar sights of deep interest to a man bitten with +the joint love of the water and the picturesque.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page117"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 117</span> +<a href="images/hp117.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp117.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIII.<br /> +<span class="smcap">yarmouth to somerleyton</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc117.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc117.jpg" /> +</a>On reaching the yacht, after rowing back with the first of +the flow, we started with two reefs down to beat over Breydon, on +which the wind against the tide raised a respectable sea. +There was a great deal of weight in the wind, for it was veering +towards the south-west, having been north-west all night, and a +strong south-west wind is generally full of puffs and +squalls. Many times we had the water over the coamings of +the well, and the lee plankways were always awash.</p> +<p>“This is something like fun!” gasped Wynne, as he +eased off the jib sheet to a squall, and the salt foam dashed in +his face; “but there won’t be much skin left on my +hands by the time we get to the top of Breydon. These +enormous jibs are horrible things to have to work. If the +yachts had finer bows, they would not want <a +name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>nearly so +much head-sail, and would go as fast, if not faster.”</p> +<p>This was heresy to our man, who had seen no other rig for +river boats all his life, and he and Wynne had a heated argument +on the matter, without either being much the wiser.</p> +<p>On reaching the top of Breydon, we turned to the left, up the +Waveney, for half a mile, as far as Burgh Castle, passing over +the dreaded Burgh flats, where a wherry and a yacht were both +hard aground, waiting for the tide to float them off. The +deep water channel is not near the line of posts as one would +imagine, but close along the west shore. We touched two or +three times, but did not stick, and at last moored alongside a +wherry, and landed to inspect the ruins on the top of the +hill. No one passing along these waters should miss the +ruins of Burgh Castle, a Roman station of great interest.</p> +<p>There is a very extensive stretch of massive wall, with towers +at intervals, and at the corners; and we spent a considerable +time in making sketches of the ruins, and admiring the extensive +view.</p> +<p>We could, if we chose, continue on up the Waveney, but the +next five miles of river are narrow, uninteresting, and with a +heavy run of tide, while at the end is a fixed bridge—St. +Olave’s, where the mast would have to be lowered. So +we turned back into the Yare, and sailed up to the mouth of the +new cut at Reedham. This is a ship canal, about three miles +long, connecting the Yare <a name="page119"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 119</span>with the Waveney. The tide +flows and ebbs from the Reedham end of it. It is perfectly +straight, and if the wind should be straight up or down it, there +is nothing for it but to tow. Now, however, we had a beam +wind, and tore along merrily enough. But trouble was in +store for us. The canal is wide enough, but it is not kept +“didled” out (“didling,” or +“dydling,” being a Norfolk term for dredging, with +scoops at the end of poles, and lifting the mud on to the banks), +and the sides are very shallow. In the distance, we saw a +large <i>billy-boy</i>, or topsail smack, from the Thames, and as +we approached, it became only too plain from the rake of her +mast, that she was aground in the very middle of the +channel. We got the mainsail down directly, and ran along +under the jib, and then, as we expected, ran aground alongside of +her. A wherry coming behind lowered her sail, and stopped +in time. The smack was laden with rice for Messrs. +Colmans’ Works, and her skipper, instead of going round by +Yarmouth, had tried the short cut by Lowestoft. After much +shoving and towing we got past, and left the smack patiently +waiting the rise of the tide, or the arrival of a tug.</p> +<p>[Since the foregoing was written, the Cut has been much +improved in depth by dredging, and piling the banks.]</p> +<p>There is very good fishing to be had in the cut, and the banks +are sound and dry, which is a rare thing on these rivers. +There is a lift-bridge at Haddiscoe railway <a +name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 120</span>station, +near the end of the cut, which takes some time to get opened; +this is a great inconvenience, and even a serious matter when you +are sailing fast, as there is not room to come about. They +also sometimes fail to open the bridge wide enough, and some time +since a large yacht had her mainsail torn as she passed through, +by its catching on the corner of the uplifted bridge. A +toll of 1s. for each yacht is taken, and a man holds out a bag on +the end of a pole to receive it. The toll for wherries +depends in amount upon whether they have the bridge opened for +them or go through with mast lowered, and at night a chain used +to be put across to prevent them stealing through unobserved, but +the chain was frequently “charged” at full speed, and +broken.</p> +<p>In a quarter of a mile we emerged into the Waveney, and, +looking back, we could see St. Olave’s bridge, a rather +handsome structure. There are a few houses grouped rather +prettily, and a good inn, the “Bell,” close by the +Bridge, a quarter of a mile from Haddiscoe station, and about a +mile from Fritton Decoy, a favourite lake for fishing, which we +shall afterwards mention.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p121.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Somerleyton Hall" +title= +"Somerleyton Hall" +src="images/p121.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We then passed through a railway swing bridge, where the East +Suffolk Railway passes over, and sailed without further incident +some two miles further to another swing bridge at Somerleyton, +where the Lowestoft line passes over. This bridge is the +worst on the rivers to pass when wind and tide are against you, +as <a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>they +so frequently are, and I am always glad to be well clear of its +piles and projections, through which the tide swirls so +swiftly.</p> +<p>The reach below the bridge used to be the best in the whole +river for pike, but the greater run of tide in recent years and +the salter water has spoiled the pike fishing, for which one has +now to go higher up the river.</p> +<p>There is a very good inn at the top of the bank to the west of +the line, called the “Duke’s Head,” and a very +beautiful belt of woods skirts the marshes on the east side of +the river, where some delicious “bits” may be +obtained, and birds, butterflies, and flowers abound.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p123.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Dace" +title= +"Dace" +src="images/p123.jpg" /> +</a>Somerleyton village is well worth a visit, for the owner of +the estate has built some most artistic cottages and houses, +which, with another score of years’ wear, will be +beautiful. The hall, occupied by Sir Savile Crossley, M.P., +stands in a sylvan park.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page124"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 124</span> +<a href="images/hp124.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp124.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV.<br /> +<span class="smcap">from somerleyton to beccles</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc124.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc124.jpg" /> +</a>The angling in all this part of the Waveney is extremely +good, and the bream and roach are of large size. It is not +nearly so much frequented as the other rivers or the upper part +of the Waveney, and is practically unfished, on account of the +difficulty in obtaining boats, there being no boating-station +nearer than Oulton Broad, five miles away. Still, it is +worth while rowing from Oulton Broad, half way to Somerleyton, +for the takes of bream there lately have been wonderful, both as +to size and number. The river is broad and deep, and one +part is as good as another, provided that you select a sufficient +depth of water.</p> +<p>We had no time to fish, and as a matter of fact I cannot stay +to fish, if there is a good breeze blowing; sailing first, +fishing after!</p> +<p>We lay to at the mouth of Oulton dyke, to get our <a +name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 125</span>lunch, +which we had put off rather too long. The dyke is nearly as +broad as the river, and a mile and a half long, leading to Oulton +Broad, which we intended to visit, after going up the Waveney to +Beccles. At the junction of the dyke with the river there +is an excellent fishing spot, with a great depth of water. +While we lay there, a large two-masted vessel, a brigantine of +100 tons, came along the dyke at a good pace, with topsails only +set, and looked as if she were going to scoop all the water out +of the river with her great bluff bows. Her crew were +pointing out to us, as we lay on the Waveney, and presently the +hail came across the narrow neck of marsh, “Do we turn up +past you to go to Beccles?”</p> +<p>“Yes, sharp to port; right around!”</p> +<p>The topsails came down, and the mainsail went up with great +celerity, and with the aid of her aft canvas, and the helm hard +over, she came round the acute angle of the sharp bend with +creditable quickness, looking a veritable Goliath on those +comparatively narrow waters. As she was now head to wind, +down came her canvas, and half-a-dozen men went ashore with a +long line to tow, and tow they did all the way to Beccles, 13 +miles, by which time they must have had enough of it. She +was in sight all day over the marsh.</p> +<p>After lunch, we sailed up the Waveney, having to tack a good +portion of the way; but the river is so tortuous that some of the +reaches can be sailed whichever way the wind is, without +tacking.</p> +<p><a name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +126</span>“How remarkably clear the water is!” +remarked Wynne.</p> +<p>“Yes, those weeds you see are 14 feet at least below us, +and the river is deep close up to the banks. It is a very +pleasant river to sail upon.”</p> +<p>“And what a lot of small fish there are!”</p> +<p>“Yes. The Waveney ought to be the best +bottom-fishing river in England, it is so deep, clear, and sweet, +but the poachers used to harry it dreadfully, with their long, +small-meshed nets, and it was even <i>trawled</i> up by smacks, +to get bait for sea-fishing, but the Norfolk and Suffolk +Fisheries Act has stopped all that, or nearly all, and the river +is rapidly recovering itself. There are some very large +perch in it, and wherever you see the bank gravelly and free from +reeds, the bottom will be hard too, and a haunt of perch. +Look at those bulrushes.”</p> +<p>“What huge ones, and what a quantity of them!”</p> +<p>“Yes, the marshmen sometimes dry the heads, and rub them +up to stuff pillows and cushions with.”</p> +<p>On the north bank is the church of Burgh St. Peter, the tower +of which is built in gradually-lessening steps, and presents a +very strange, un-English appearance.</p> +<p>The sail up to Beccles is a very pleasant one, and pretty bits +continually present themselves. Two miles below Beccles +there is a swing railway bridge, which is tolerably easy to get +through, as there is not a great rush of tide through it, as +under the bridges lower down.</p> +<p><a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +127</span>Beccles church had been a prominent object all the way, +and when we arrived at Sayer’s Grove, so prettily sylvan a +place that we decided to stay there the night, we went in the +useful jolly another mile to Beccles bridge, 23 miles from +Yarmouth, until lately a narrow arched stone structure, but now +replaced by a wider and more convenient bridge. Passing +through, we skirted the town of Beccles, until we came below the +church, a sight no one should miss who is in the +neighbourhood. Viewed from the river, it stands on the brow +of a hill, in a commanding position. Landing, we climbed up +a series of steps and reached the churchyard, whence a splendid +view westward is obtained, the river winding in and out through +the green marshes towards Bungay. The south doorway of the +church is richly ornamented, but the peculiar feature of the +church is that the tower, a very high and massive structure, is +separate from it.</p> +<p>Beccles is a quiet, old-fashioned place, with good railway +accommodation, as a glance at the map will show. It is a +cheap place to live in, as there are no heavy rates, these being +defrayed by the letting of valuable marshes belonging to the +town. It is a healthy little place, and pretty withal, and +would, I think, be a capital place for retired persons with small +incomes to settle in.</p> +<p>The river is navigable for wherries and small yachts, for +about ten miles further up to Bungay, but the navigation is +rather troublesome, and there are two or three locks to be passed +through.</p> +<p><a name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 128</span>It is +worth while to row up the river a few miles to Shipmeadow +lock. The river all the way is very pretty, with crystal +clear water, and the lock itself is quaint and old-fashioned.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p128.jpg"> +<img alt= +"River Waveney" +title= +"River Waveney" +src="images/p128.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>After laying in some stores we returned to the yacht, and +spent a peaceful evening in the shadow of the wooded hill, +beneath which we were moored.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page129"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 129</span> +<a href="images/hp129.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp129.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XV.<br /> +<span class="smcap">oulton broad</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc129.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc129.jpg" /> +</a>In the night we were awakened by the sound of very heavy rain +pattering on the deck and cabin roof, and presently we discovered +that the recent very dry weather had opened the seams of the +wood, and sundry persistent droppings evaded our attempts to +escape them.</p> +<p>“My nose is wearing away with one dreadful +drop.”</p> +<p>“Then open your mouth and catch it. Oh!”</p> +<p>“What’s the matter?”</p> +<p>“A drop went splash into my eye!”</p> +<p>We made merry for a time, but presently it clearly became a +case of “a drop too much,” and we sat up in +despair. Just as things were getting uncomfortably wet, the +storm passed off, and the morning dawned with a wondrous +clearness and brilliance, while the air was full of the sweet, +earthy scents that arise after rain. <a +name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>The reeds +were fresher and greener, and the grasses and flowers glittered +in the sun, like the radiant ripples on the water. And so, +amid the songs of birds and the quickened joy of nature, we +bowled along down the Waveney at a merry pace, and in two hours +we had reached the mouth of Oulton Dyke, the sharp turn into +which necessitated a heavy gibe.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p131.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Oulton Broad" +title= +"Oulton Broad" +src="images/p131.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>A mile and a half of this and Oulton Broad opened out before +us. This is the most civilized of all the Broads, and is +always gay with yachts sailing about, and populous with yachts +lying at their moorings. It is of an irregular shape, and +in the bight, or “ham,” at the north-east end of it, +the yachts are thickly clustered. Also, for what reason it +is hard to say, many of the old and worn-out fishing smacks of +Lowestoft are brought into this corner, and moored against the +bank, where very many of them have sunk, and all are picturesque +in the extreme. Some large sea yachts also use this bight +as a laying-up place for the winter. The river yachts and +sailing boats are of every size and rig, and a paddle in and out +among them is of interest to a nautical mind. At the lower +end of the lake is a lock which gives access for sea-going +vessels to Lake Lothing, which is a tidal lake, two miles long, +ending in Lowestoft harbour and the sea. By the lock is one +of the most charming hostelries it is possible to conceive. +It ought to be called the “Angler’s Rest,” were +it not already called the “Wherry Hotel.” Here +there is capital <a name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +133</span>accommodation for anglers, and boats, bait, etc., are +provided at reasonable rates. There is also another +comfortable inn, called the “Commodore,” and there +are two smaller inns, the “Waveney Hotel”—the +landlord of which, George Smith, is an excellent +waterman—and the “Lady of the Lake.” The +railway station is close by, and is now called Oulton Broad +Station, but was formerly Mutford, that being the name of the +village at the east end of the Broad. The village is very +prettily situated between the two lakes, and is only two miles +from the sea. There are lodgings to be had there, and for a +place combining the attractions of lake, river, and sea, it has +few equals. Of course, the Broad is within easy reach of +Lowestoft, the most attractive watering-place on the coast of +Norfolk and Suffolk. It has a fine pier, good houses, +cliffs, a capital harbour for yachts, a harbour for fishing +vessels, where the artist will find much that is picturesque, and +an old part of the town on the higher ground to the north, which +has many features of interest. It has not the noise and +bustle of Yarmouth, but it is gay enough for reasonable +people.</p> +<p>At Lowestoft, facing the harbour, is the club house of the +Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club, and annual visitors to Lowestoft +would find it an advantage to join the Yacht Club for the sake of +the conveniences afforded by the club-house.</p> +<p>Oulton Broad has plenty of fish in it, and the fishing <a +name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>is +free. When the rivers are flooded, and the rank water off +the marshes pours into the river, the fish of all kinds crowd +into the purer waters of the Broad in surprising numbers. +Formerly it was noted for its perch, but for some time they +appear to have decreased in numbers. Lately, however, they +have been more freely caught. In a few more years the +benefits of the Norfolk and Suffolk Fisheries Act will be more +widely felt, as the abundance of small fish in the rivers plainly +testifies. Pike are present sometimes in great quantity, +but the supply seems to fluctuate considerably. For a few +weeks each season they seem to be uncommonly numerous, and large +catches are made. Then they fall off, and none are caught +for some time.</p> +<p>The shooting on the Broad is also free, and in the large room +at the “Wherry Inn” is a most attractive collection +of fishes and birds, which have met their death in this +locality.</p> +<p>The most interesting and tantalizing inhabitant of the Broad +is the grey mullet, large shoals of which may be seen disporting +themselves on the surface. They run to a large size, and +seem to average two or three pounds in weight. Anglers +cannot catch them as a general rule, but some persons say that +they have succeeded, using small hooks baited with strange baits, +such as the beard of an oyster, or a bit of boiled cabbage +stump. I fancy that by using a fly cast, buoyed at +intervals by bits of cork, and having small hooks baited with +gentles, <a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +135</span>and then paying out a long line so as to cover a shoal, +some sport might be had. At all events, the experiment is +worth trying some day when there is no wind for sailing. +The mullet, when alarmed by a net or other obstruction, has a +habit of leaping high out of the water, and frequently leaps into +boats. Once, while I was sailing through Reedham Bridge, a +grey mullet, of four pounds in weight, leaped into the jolly-boat +towing astern, and was captured.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p135.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Ruffe" +title= +"Ruffe" +src="images/p135.jpg" /> +</a>At Oulton the mullet are often shot with arrows having heavy +lines attached, while they are accidentally confined in the lock +between the Broad and Lake Lothing.</p> +<p>Well, we spent the rest of our holiday at Oulton, and as I was +saying good-bye to Wynne at the station, I asked him what he +thought of the Broads.</p> +<p>“The finest places for boat-sailing and bottom-fishing +in England. I shall bring a boat here in the winter for +wild-fowl shooting on Breydon, and I shall certainly come again +next summer.”</p> +<p>So ended our cruise.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page136"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 136</span> +<a href="images/hp136.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp136.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XVI.<br /> +<span class="smcap">ormesby and fritton</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc136.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc136.jpg" /> +</a>There are still some very important Broads in Norfolk and +Suffolk, which I could not mention in an account of a cruise, +because they are not accessible from the navigable waters, and, +as a matter of fact, I know comparatively little about them for +that reason. There are the Ormesby, Filby and Rollesby +Broads, lying together in a straggling group four or five miles +north-eastward of Acle. Altogether, they contain 800 acres +of water, but much of this is overgrown by reeds. The Muck +Fleet, which we passed below Acle Bridge, is their outlet into +the river Bure. They are very easily accessible from +Yarmouth by rail to Ormesby station, on the North Norfolk +Railway, and boats may be obtained at the Eel’s Foot, and +the Sportsman’s Arms, the former having fair staying +accommodation. The fishing is free, at all events to +persons going to the houses named, and <a +name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>uncommonly +good sport is to be had amongst pike, rudd, and bream, the number +of a catch being counted by the hundred, and the weight by the +stone. For fishing, pure and simple, Ormesby Broad is as +good a place as any to visit.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p136a.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Fritton Decoy" +title= +"Fritton Decoy" +src="images/p136a.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The other lake I have not described is Fritton Decoy, a long +curving lake, about a mile from St. Olave’s station, on the +Yarmouth and Lowestoft Railway, and Haddiscoe station, on the +Norwich and Lowestoft Railway. It is only open to anglers +from April to September, being closed the rest of the year, to +protect the wild-fowl decoys, which are still worked on it, by +the two proprietors. For a note upon these decoys, and +others in Norfolk, I must refer the reader to a paper upon +decoys, written by Mr. Thos. Southwell, F.Z.S., published in a +new edition of that most fascinating book, Lubbock’s +“Fauna of Norfolk,” issued by the publishers of this +book, and for descriptive accounts to my own larger book, +“Norfolk Broads and Rivers,” published by Wm. +Blackwood and Sons.</p> +<p>Fritton is an exceedingly beautiful Broad, and its waters are +very deep. It is, in fact, a lake, rather than a Broad +proper. It is extremely well stocked with fish, and good +sport may generally be obtained there. Boats can be +obtained at “Fritton Old Hall.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/tp137.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter end" +title= +"Decorative chapter end" +src="images/tp137.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page138"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 138</span> +<a href="images/hp138.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative chapter header" +title= +"Decorative chapter header" +src="images/hp138.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>APPENDIX.<br /> +<span class="smcap">railway access to fishing +stations</span>.</h2> +<p> +<a href="images/dc138.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Decorative drop capital" +title= +"Decorative drop capital" +src="images/dc138.jpg" /> +</a>To begin with, it may be well to state that Norwich itself +can be reached from London by two lines of railway—one via +Colchester and Ipswich, and the other by Cambridge and Ely, the +journey taking from three to four hours. From Norwich, +Yarmouth and Lowestoft may be reached in an hour of slow +travelling, and as the line runs by the river the whole way, and +every station is convenient for fishing purposes, it will be +desirable to give a list of them, with remarks upon the adjacent +fishing places.</p> +<h3>WHITLINGHAM.</h3> +<p>This is too close to Norwich for very good fishing, although +occasionally the fish seem to head up, and good takes are to be +had. Good rowing boats may be obtained at Thorpe Gardens, +five minutes’ walk from <a name="page139"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 139</span>the station. Omnibuses ply +between the Gardens and Norwich every hour. The reach of +the old river is very lovely.</p> +<h3>BRUNDALL</h3> +<p>Is the station for “Coldham Hall,” at which inn +visitors can be accommodated. The inn is ten minutes’ +walk from the station down the river, and across the ferry. +There are plenty of boats, and the place is much +frequented. From here down to Buckenham Ferry there are +large numbers of pike, and it is customary to row down trailing a +bait behind. Roach and bream are plentiful.</p> +<h3>BUCKENHAM FERRY.</h3> +<p>From this station you have ten minutes’ walk down to the +Ferry, where boats are to be obtained, and the fishing generally +is good.</p> +<h3>CANTLEY.</h3> +<p>Close by the station is the “Red House” Inn, where +there is good accommodation for visitors. Boats can be +had. The fish, as a rule, run larger here than higher +up. The water is deep and the tide swift. When the +water is fairly clear, some good pike may be had.</p> +<h3>REEDHAM.</h3> +<p>The “Ferry” Inn is ten minutes’ walk. +Good accommodation. The bream run large, so do the perch, +of which there used to be large numbers <i>under the ferry +boat</i>.</p> +<p><a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 140</span>The +line divides at Reedham, one part going to Yarmouth and the other +to Lowestoft. There is no fishing place on the Yarmouth +branch, but on the Lowestoft line there are—</p> +<h3>HADDISCOE,</h3> +<p>whence the Cut may be fished. Boats are difficult to +obtain, but the landlord of the “Bell” Inn, at St. +Olave’s bridge, might procure you one. This is the +station for Fritton Decoy.</p> +<h3>SOMERLEYTON.</h3> +<p>This would be an excellent fishing station if boats could be +procured, but you cannot rely upon being able to borrow +one. The porters at the swing-bridge, or the landlord of +the “Duke’s Head,” might direct you where to +obtain a boat. I think the latter has one or two. The +bream are very large and numerous. The good fishing in this +part of the river has been exemplified by Mr. Winch, of Norwich, +who has taken 8 stone in a day—five bream weighing 20 lbs., +and one bream weighing 6¾ lbs.</p> +<h3>OULTON BROAD.</h3> +<p>See the last chapter for full information as to this important +fishing station.</p> +<p>Another line from Norwich leads to—</p> +<h3>WROXHAM.</h3> +<p>7 miles. The river is full of roach, bream, perch, and +pike, although it is much fished. Boats at Jimpson’s +<a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 141</span>or +Whittaker’s, where there is also fair accommodation for +visitors. The Broad is a mile and a half down stream, from +the bridge. It can be fished by permission only. +Tickets to fish on the Broad can be obtained through Mr. C. J. +Greene, Fishing Tackle Maker, London Street, Norwich, at 2s. 6d. +per boat.</p> +<h3>COLTISHALL.</h3> +<p>Two miles further. The fishing is much better here than +is generally supposed, but boats are not plentiful. Enquire +at the waterside who is likely to have one at liberty.</p> +<p>The Eastern and Midlands line runs from Yarmouth through the +heart of the Broad District to North Walsham, on the Norwich, +Wroxham, and Cromer line. The stations from Yarmouth +are—</p> +<h3>ORMESBY.</h3> +<p>A mile and a half from its Broads, about 200 acres of which +are free. The fishing is as good as it can be for pike, +rudd, roach, and bream. Boats at the “Eel’s +Foot” and “Sportsman’s Arms.” +Staying accommodation at the former.</p> +<h3>MARTHAM.</h3> +<p>Not far from the river Thurne, but the next station is more +convenient.</p> +<h3>POTTER HEIGHAM.</h3> +<p>Inns, the “Falgate” and “Waterman’s +Arms,” where <a name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +142</span>there is staying accommodation. Good boats at +Applegate’s. The river Thurne and the channels +through Heigham Sounds and Hickling swarm with bream, rudd, +perch, roach, pike, and eels.</p> +<h3>CATFIELD.</h3> +<p>The nearest station to Hickling, but not so convenient for +boats.</p> +<h3>STALHAM.</h3> +<p>Barton Broad is within a mile and a half, where the fishing is +excellent. Plenty of boats obtainable at the end of the +dyke. Inns, the “Maid’s Head” and the +“Swan,” both very comfortable. Stalham is a +pretty village.</p> +<p>Thence to North Walsham there is no fishing station of +interest.</p> +<p>On the direct line between Yarmouth and Lowestoft, <span +class="smcap">St. Olave’s</span> is the nearest station to +Fritton.</p> +<h3>ACLE</h3> +<p>Is now a station on the new line between Norwich and Yarmouth, +joining the old line at Brundall.</p> +<p>Of places not accessible by rail, the chief is Horning Ferry, +on the Bure, where there is a capital inn to stay at, kept by a +good host and sportsman, Mr. Thompson, who can be relied upon to +make his visitors comfortable. At Horning village, the +“New” Inn deserves mention, and boats can be procured +there. Horning is about four miles’ drive from +Wroxham, and ten from Norwich.</p> +<p><a name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>The +reader is requested to look at the Map, and note the relative +position of the various places. As to fishing, it can +hardly be said that one is better than another, for all are so +good.</p> +<h2>NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.</h2> +<p>Under this Act, which was passed in 1877, certain Bye-laws +have been made, with which the reader should make himself +acquainted.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">APPROVED BYE-LAWS.</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Close Time—All Waters</span>.</p> +<p>1. No person shall fish for, catch, take, or kill, or +attempt to catch, take, or kill, otherwise than by rod and line, +within the limits of the above Act, any Trout, between the 10th +day of September and the 25th day of January, both days +inclusive, or any other kind of fish, between the 1st day of +March and the 30th day of June, both days inclusive, except +Smelts, Bait, and Eels, as hereinafter provided.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Nets Generally</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>2.</p> +</td> +<td colspan="4"><p>No person shall, for the purpose of taking +Fish within the limits of the above Act, do any of the following +things:—</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>1.</p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use any Net between one hour +after sunset and one hour before sunrise, except in the River +Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in the River Nene below Wisbeach +Bridge.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>2.</p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use, at any time before the +30th day of June, 1890, for the purpose of taking Fish, other +than <a name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +144</span>Tench, Smelts, Bait, and Eels, any Net having a mesh of +less dimensions when wet than three inches from knot to knot, +measured on each side of the square, or twelve inches all +round.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>3.</p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use any Net having a wall or +facing, with a mesh of less dimensions when wet than seven inches +from knot to knot, measured on each side of the square, or 28 +inches all round.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>4.</p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river, +any Bow Net.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>5.</p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river, +any Drag Net having a poke or pocket.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>6.</p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use a drag net of any kind +in the under-mentioned waters:—</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>1. The River Yare or Wensum—</p> +<p>2. The River Waveney—</p> +<p>3. The River Bure, below the lower entrance into Wroxham +Broad—</p> +<p>4. The River Ant, below the lower entrance into Barton +Broad—</p> +<p>5. The River Thurne, below the entrance into Somerton +Broad—</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>except with the previous permission in writing +of the Board of Conservators, under their Common Seal.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>3. No person shall, within the limits of +the above Act, use or attempt to use, any net for taking Fish, +unless it is sufficiently weighted to sink vertically in the +water, or take, or attempt to take, Fish by placing two or more +Nets behind or near to each other, or use any other device or +artifice so as practically to diminish the size of the mesh of +any net allowed to be used by these Bye-Laws, or to evade this +provision.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 145</span><span +class="smcap">Prohibiting Use of Trimmers, &c., in Navigable +Rivers</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>4. No person shall use, or attempt to +use, any Trimmer, Ligger, Dead Line, or Snare, or any like +Instrument or Engine, for the purpose of taking Fish in any +navigable river within the limits of the above Act, except Lines +for taking Eels as hereinafter provided.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Taking Smelts.—Rivers Yare and +Wensum</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>5. No person shall, within the limits of +the above Act, use, or attempt to use, any Net in the River Yare +or Wensum for the purpose of taking Smelts, except a Cast Net or +Drop Net, between the 10th day of March and the 12th day of May, +both days inclusive, and then only between the New Mills, in the +parish of Saint Swithin, in the City of Norwich, or Trowse +Bridge, in Trowse, or Trowse Newton, and the junction of the +Rivers Yare and Wensum at a place known as Trowse Hythe, and +between Hardley Cross and the junction of the Rivers Yare and +Waveney.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>6. No person shall use, or attempt to +use, a Cast Net or Drop Net exceeding 16 feet in diameter, in the +River Yare or Wensum, within the limits of the above Act.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Taking Smelts.—River Waveney</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>7. No person shall, within the limits of +the above Act, use, or attempt to use, in the River Waveney, +above the Burgh Cement works, any Net for the purpose of taking +Smelts, except between the 10th day of March and the 12th day of +May, both days inclusive, and then only at the places and by the +means hereinafter mentioned, viz., between Rose Hall Fleet, and +the Boat-house Hill, near Beccles, and in the pen of Shipmeadow +Lock, by a Cast Net or Drop Net not exceeding 16 feet in +diameter, and if any such Net be used between one hour after +sunset and one hour before sunrise, the same shall be used with a +light or flare, and not otherwise.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span><span +class="smcap">Taking Smelts.—Rivers Ouse, Nar, and +Nene</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>8. No person shall, within the limits of +the above Act, take or kill, or attempt to take or kill, Smelts +in the Rivers Ouse, Nar, or Nene, between the 1st day of April +and the 31st day of August, both days inclusive.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>9. No person shall, within the limits of +the above Act, use or attempt to use, in the Rivers Ouse, Nar, or +Nene, for the purpose of taking Smelts, any Net having a mesh of +less dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot +to knot, measured on each side of the square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Taking Smelts.—Breydon Water</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>10. No person shall, within the limits +of the above Act, use, or attempt to use, in the water known as +Breydon Water, for the purpose of taking Smelts, any Net in the +months of May, June, July, and August, or any Net between the 1st +day of September and the 30th day of April, both days inclusive, +having a mesh of less dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths of +an inch from knot to knot, measured on each side of the +square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Taking Bait.—Navigable Rivers</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>11. No person shall, for the purpose of +taking Bait in any navigable river within the limits of the above +Act (except in the River Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in the +River Nene below Wisbeach Bridge), use any Net other than a Cast +Net, or any Cast Net having a mesh of less dimensions, when wet, +than five-eighths of an inch from knot to knot, measured on each +side of the square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Taking Bait.—All Waters</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>12. No person shall, within the limits +of the above Act, use, or attempt to use, any Cast Net exceeding +twelve yards in circumference, between the 11th day of October +and the 1st day of April in each year, or any Cast Net exceeding +eight yards in circumference at any other time of the year, or +any such net, <a name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +147</span>having a sack, or purse exceeding fourteen inches in +depth, when extended, for the purpose of taking Fish for Bait; +and the word “Bait” shall mean Roach, Rudd or Roud, +Bream, Dace, Ruff or Pope, Gudgeons, and Minnows, measuring less +than eight inches from the nose to the fork of the tail.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>13. No person shall, within the limits +of the above Act, Net for Bait at any time on a Sunday; and no +person shall, within such limits, Net for Bait at any time on a +week-day except between one hour before sunrise and one hour +after sunset, nor unless such Bait is for use in angling, or +trolling, or taking Eels within the limits of the above Act.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Taking Eels.—Rivers Yare and Wensum, above +Hardley Cross</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>14. No person shall, for the purpose of +taking Eels in the Rivers Yare and Wensum, above Hardley Cross, +do any of the following things:—</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>1.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Use or attempt to use in the months of April, May, and +June, a line with a hook or hooks, except in connection with a +rod used for the purpose of Angling.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>2.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Use or attempt to use any Net in the months of April, May, +and June.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>3.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Use or attempt to use at any other time of the year, a +Line, whether fixed or not, with more than one hook, except in +connection with a rod used for the purpose of Angling.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +<td colspan="2"><p>4.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Use or attempt to use any Net other than a Skim or Skein +Net.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Taking Eels.—All Other Waters</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>15. In all other waters within the +limits of the above Act, lines with one hook only, whether fixed +or not, and fixed Nets, but no others, may be used at any time +for taking Eels only.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>16. No person shall use or attempt to +use, in any water within the limits of the above Act, a Dag or +Spear, for the purpose of taking Fish other than Eels.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span><span +class="smcap">All Waters</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>17. Any person, within the limits of the +above Act, taking any Fish except Smelts, Eels, or Bait in any +Net allowed by the Bye Laws to be used for taking Smelts, Eels, +or Bait respectively, shall immediately return such +first-mentioned Fish to the water without avoidable injury.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="5"><p>18. The foregoing Bye-laws shall not +apply to any other than fresh-water Fish, or to the water known +as Breydon Water, except as to Smelts, as hereinbefore +provided.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p><i>I hereby certify that the foregoing is a true Copy of the +Bye-laws made by the Board of Conservators under the above Act, +and that such Bye-laws have been approved by one of Her +Majesty’s Principal Secretaries of State, and have been +duly advertised as approved Bye-laws in newspapers circulated in +the Counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, and have been otherwise +published as the Board directed.</i></p> +<p><i>Sealed by order of the Board.</i></p> +<h2>TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">FROM CARROW +BRIDGE.<br /> +<span class="smcap">Yare</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Miles</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To Trowse Hythe</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Thorpe Second Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">1½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Whitlingham Ferry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Corby’s Dyke</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">2¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Postwick Grove</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">3¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, ,, Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">3¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Wood’s End</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Wilde’s Cottage</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Surlingham Ferry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">5¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Coldham Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">7¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Walpole’s Reed Bush</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Buckenham Ferry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Hassingham Dyke</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">10¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Langley Dyke</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">11¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To Cantley Red House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">12¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Devil’s House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">13¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Hardley Mill</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, ,, Dyke</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">14¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, ,, Cross</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">15¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Norton Staithe</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">15¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Reedham Ferry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">15½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, ,, End of New +Cut</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Upper Seven Mile House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">18½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Berney Arms</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">20¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Burgh Flats</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Yarmouth Drawbridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Gorleston Pierhead</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">27¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 149</span>FROM +REEDHAM BRIDGE.<br /> +<span class="smcap">Waveney</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To Herringfleet Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Somerleyton Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Oulton Dyke</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">7½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, ,, Broad</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">8¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To Mutford Lock</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">9¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Lowestoft Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">11½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, +,, Pierhead</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">11¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">FROM YARMOUTH +BRIDGE.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Yare</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To Berney Arms</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Reedham Town</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Norton Staithe</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">9¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Hardley Cross</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Cantley</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">12½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Buckenham Ferry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Coldham Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">18¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Surlingham Ferry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">19¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Bramerton Wood’s End</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Postwick Grove</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Whitlingham</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Carrow Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Waveney</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To Burgh Cage</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, St. Olave’s Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">9½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Mouth of New Cut</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">9¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Somerleyton Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">12¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Mouth of Oulton Dyke</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Carlton Share Mill</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">16¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Seven-Mile Corner</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">17¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Six-Mile Corner</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">18¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Worlingham Staithe</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Aldeby Staithe</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">20½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Beccles Mill</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Sayer’s Grove</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Beccles Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Nine Poplars</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">24¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To Dawson’s Dip House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">24¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Barsham’s Boat House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">25¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Mouth of Oulton Dyke</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Horse Shoe Point</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Oulton Broad</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">16½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Mutford Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">17¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Lowestoft Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Length of New Cut</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">2½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Bure</span>.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To Three-Mile House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Runham Swim</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">5½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Six-Mile House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">6½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Seven-Mile House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">8½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Stokesby Ferry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Acle Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Fishley Mill</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">12½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Thurne Mouth</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">15¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, St. Benet’s Abbey</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Mouth of Ant</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">17½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Horning Ferry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Horning Point</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Wroxham Broad</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">25½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Wroxham Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Belaugh</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">31</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Coltishall Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Aylsham Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 150</span><span +class="smcap">Thurne</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To Thurne Mouth</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">15¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Potter Heigham Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Candler’s Dyke</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">19½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Hickling Staithe</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">22¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">Ant</span>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To Mouth of Ant</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">17½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Ludham Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">18¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Mouth of Barton Broad</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">21¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, End of Barton Broad</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">22½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Stalham</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">23½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, Stalham Staithe</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">24¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>From Yarmouth Bridge to Runham Swim</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">5½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, +,, Six-Mile House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">6½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, +,, Seven-Mile House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">8½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, +,, Stokesby Ferry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, +,, Acle Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>From Acle Bridge to Fishley Mill</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +Thurne Mouth</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">3¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, St. +Benet’s</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, Mouth +of Ant</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">5½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +Horning Rectory</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">7½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, +,, +,, Ferry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, +,, +,, Point</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +Entrance to Wroxham Broad</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">13½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +Wroxham Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>From Wroxham Bridge to Belaugh</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +,, Coltishall</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +,, Aylsham</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>From Yarmouth Bridge to Wroxham Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +,, Coltishall</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +,, Aylsham</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>From Thurne Mouth to Heigham Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">3¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, ,, Kendal +Dyke</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, ,, Hickling +Staithe</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>From River Ant to Ludham Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, ,, Mouth of Barton Broad</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, ,, End +of ,, +,,</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, ,, End of Stalham Broad</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, ,, ,, +,, ,, Staithe</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">6¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +151</span>TIDES.</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: center">h.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: center">m.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>It is high water at Lowestoft</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">43</p> +</td> +<td><p>later than at Yarmouth Bar</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, +,, ,, ,, +Cantley</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p> +</td> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +,, ,,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, +,, ,, ,, +Coldham Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p> +</td> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +,, ,,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, +,, ,, ,, +Oulton</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p> +</td> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +,, ,,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, +,, ,, ,, +Horning</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p> +</td> +<td><p> ,, +,, ,, +,, ,,</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The Tide flows and ebbs in the Bure one hour later than at +Yarmouth Bridge.</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p>Springs.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Neap.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>The rise at Yarmouth is</p> +</td> +<td><p>6 feet</p> +</td> +<td><p>4½ feet</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, ,, ,, Lowestoft ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>6½ ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>5¼ ,,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, ,, ,, Cantley +,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>2½ ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>1½ ,,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, ,, ,, +Oulton ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>2 ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>1¼ ,,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The Tides, however, vary according to the strength and +direction of the wind and the quantity of flood water in the +river.</p> +<h2>FISHING GENERALLY.</h2> +<p>In the rivers it is customary to fish in 10 to 14 feet of +water, and the shortness of the swims necessitates the line being +heavily weighted, in order that it may sink rapidly. The +floats are necessarily large, particularly when used for the +lower reaches, where there is a considerable tidal current. +The boats are moored in a line with the stream, not across it, as +on the Thames, and the swims are thus very short. For the +upper and clearer waters, the Nottingham system of angling might +be advisable, but in the more turbid lower reaches the Norfolk +style is practically the best. Worms are used for bream, +and paste for roach. Worms are procurable at some of the +tackle shops, but anglers will do well to provide them for +themselves if possible.</p> +<p><a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 152</span>Boats +are charged for at the rate of from 1s. to 2s. a-day, but are +rather rough concerns, except at Oulton.</p> +<p>Ground-bait, consisting chiefly of meal and clay, is largely +used, but a place is rarely baited beforehand. As there is +ample choice of stations, always moor so that the wind is at your +back, and you will thus have smooth water in front of you.</p> +<p>Small roach as bait for pike, are procurable at most of the +waterside inns, at 1s. to 1s. 6d. a score, but to get the best +sport obtain fish from other waters, particularly dace and +gudgeon.</p> +<p>Pike are, of course, the chief fish in Norfolk, and are +plentiful everywhere. In the rivers they do not run very +large, a ten-pound fish being considered a good one, but in a few +years’ time, with the freedom from netting the rivers now +enjoy, we may expect some very large ones to be caught in the +rivers. In private waters there are veritable monsters, but +the stranger is not likely to make acquaintance with them.</p> +<p>Live-baiting and spinning with a spoon, or artificial bait +trailed behind a boat, are the usual modes of fishing for pike in +Norfolk. Trolling with a dead gorge, and spinning with a +dead bait by casting, as in the Thames, are comparatively rarely +practised, although I believe that in some portions of the rivers +these methods would “pay.” I have seen +fly-fishing for pike practised with success here, and I firmly +believe that on some of the shallower Broads it would be very +deadly.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p152a.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Ormesby Broad—Landing stage" +title= +"Ormesby Broad—Landing stage" +src="images/p152a.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 153</span>Perch +are only locally common wherever there is a suitable bottom for +them, as at Irstead Shoals and Hickling, and in some portions of +the Bure and Waveney, but they run to a large size, and are +sometimes caught between three and four pounds in weight.</p> +<p>Bream are most common of all, and may be caught by hundreds +and the stone weight. They run up to five and six pounds in +weight, and a take by two rods in a day of 150, averaging +half-a-pound apiece, is not a rare event.</p> +<p>Roach are very numerous and large, many running close to two +pounds in weight.</p> +<p>Rudd are beautiful game fish, common in some of the Broads, +particularly Ormesby, and give rare sport if you get among a +shoal of them.</p> +<p>Eels are, of course, present in any number, and +“babbing” for them, with a bunch of worms threaded on +to worsted, is not a bad way of passing a warm night.</p> +<p>Tench are common, but are not often caught with a rod and +line. They are taken in bow nets, and run very large. +In hot weather, in June, they may be taken by the hand as they +bask in the shallow water among the weeds. Some fishermen +are very skilful in this particular mode of catching them.</p> +<p>Carp are caught sometimes, but not often, although there are +plenty of them.</p> +<p>Dace and gudgeon are not so frequently caught in the navigable +waters as other fish.</p> +<p><a name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>Chub +and barbel are unknown in the Broad District.</p> +<p>The bream are so excessively abundant that they spoil the +fishing for other fish, notably for perch, and I think it would +be an excellent thing if the different preservation societies +would set apart a few days each year for systematic netting to +thin the bream, replacing the other fish, and selling those +retained. What is the good to anglers of catching thousands +of small bream? Are not a score over a pound weight each +better than ten-score fingerlings? Judicious thinning out, +under proper supervision, would have a most beneficial effect on +the size of the fish generally.</p> +<p>There are several preservation societies, of which the Yare +Preservation Society is the chief. Mr. C. J. Greene, of +London Street, Norwich, Fishing Tackle Maker, is the honorary +secretary. The objects of these societies are to abolish +netting and poaching, and protect the river for fair +angling. The subscriptions are nominal (5s.), and yet they +are supported entirely by local efforts. As a rule, none of +the anglers from London and other distant parts, who come down to +Norfolk and have the best of sport, contribute anything to the +societies which are instrumental in furnishing them with +sport. This is exceedingly shabby of visitors here, and I +trust that those who have been induced to visit the Broads +through my writings will at least make the small return to +Norfolk anglers of assisting them in their efforts to make these +waters the best public fishing places in the kingdom.</p> +<p><a name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 155</span>There +are a few professional fishermen to be hired by the angler. +“Professor” Day, of Richmond Hill, Norwich, is one of +the best, and knows every inch of water, and there are some good +men at Oulton.</p> +<p>Strangers frequently complain that they cannot meet with the +excellent sport which falls to the lot of the local anglers, and +I remember Mr. Cholmondeley Pennel being immensely dispirited at +his non-success on our waters. I lately interviewed a local +gentleman who is well known as a successful fisherman, and I +append my questions and his remarks thereon, which will afford +some valuable information.</p> +<h3>ROACH.</h3> +<p><i>1. Where found at different periods of the +year</i>?</p> +<p>Throughout the summer the entire length of our local streams +where the water is fresh and not salt or brackish; the finest +fish and greatest number between Cantley and Coldham Hall, on the +Yare; large numbers also in the dyke leading from Oulton +Broad. In winter they appear generally to retire to the +deep waters, and are sometimes found in good quantity about +Thorpe Broad, and may be angled for with success in deep spots on +the Bure and other waters.</p> +<p><i>2. Best periods to fish for them</i>?</p> +<p>July to October, but good catches may often be had in +November, and during the winter and early spring months by any +expert angler who doesn’t mind the cold.</p> +<p><a name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +156</span><i>3. What time of day at different +seasons</i>?</p> +<p>As a rule, but few fish are caught during the middle of the +day; this is especially the case in bright warm weather. On +dull, “close” days, however, they will often bite +freely throughout the day. The morning up to about 11.30, +and from 3 to 6 or 7 p.m. are undoubtedly the best times to fish +during summer, and in winter almost any time up to sunset.</p> +<p><i>4. What depth of water</i>?</p> +<p>As a rule, the best fish are found during summer in the +deepest water, and should not be angled for on the Yare at a less +depth than nine or ten feet. On the Bure the deepest spots +that can be found. In March or April shallower waters +should be tried.</p> +<p><i>5. How affected by the tide</i>?</p> +<p>Variously. Sometimes an angler gets all his fish on the +up tide, and at other times on the ebb. I, however, suspect +that certain local formations of the river bed, have much to do +with this.</p> +<p><i>6. What ground-bait</i>?</p> +<p>The best I have ever used is composed of bran, bread, and +boiled wheat, in fair proportions, made up into firm balls about +the size of an orange. One of these thrown in occasionally, +and now and then a few grains of boiled wheat will generally +suffice to keep a good quantity of fish about your boat.</p> +<p><i>7. Are places ever baited beforehand</i>?</p> +<p>Not often for roach. Believe this is done occasionally +by some, but have never practised it myself.</p> +<p><a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +157</span><i>8. What baits are most successful</i>?</p> +<p>During summer the most successful baits are well-boiled wheat +and paste, red or white, in such clear waters as the Waveney and +the upper reaches of Bure, etc. White paste is best on the +Yare, the red always kills the best fish. In autumn, +gentles, and later on brandlings and gentles, or better still, +small red worms, “blood.” There are many other +baits used with good success occasionally, but these are by far +the most reliable.</p> +<p><i>9. What kind of rod</i>?</p> +<p>For tight-line fishing in the deep waters of the Yare, the rod +should be light, stiff, and from 15 to 18 feet in length. +For running tackle a shorter rod will do, and for this I prefer +one of hickory. Should recommend cane for the longer +kind.</p> +<p><i>10. Number of hook</i>?</p> +<p>When the fish are of fair size, I use No. 9, at other times +Nos. 10 or 12. Those known amongst anglers as +“Crystal,” are excellent for roach fishing.</p> +<p><i>11. Is running tackle advisable</i>?</p> +<p>Running tackle is decidedly preferable for such deep, strong +waters as those between Coldham Hall and Reedham. For the +slower waters of the Bure and the upper reaches of the Yare, I do +not consider that running tackle has any advantages worth +naming.</p> +<p><i>12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of +line</i>?</p> +<p>For deep-water fishing I always attach nine feet of <a +name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>gut to my +line; six feet moderately stout and three feet fine drawn. +Line, a fine <i>braided</i> silk. A light, well-shotted +line of this kind has many advantages, especially on a windy +day.</p> +<p><i>13. What kind of float</i>?</p> +<p>Quill at all times. For deep swift waters, a large +pelican or swan quill, for slower and shallower waters a much +smaller one.</p> +<p><i>14. Is line heavily shotted</i>?</p> +<p>For deep waters I use a float carrying upwards of 20 +medium-sized shot. These are placed on a space of about a +foot, the bottom one not nearer than about three feet from the +hook, with just one shot on the gut attached to hook. This +arrangement ensures the bait being carried swiftly to the bottom +and kept steady, very important items in roach fishing.</p> +<p><i>15. Is float best attached by lower end only</i>?</p> +<p>Yes, this plan which has been in practice with the +“Norwich School” for many years past is decidedly the +best, and admits of much more neatness and accuracy in striking a +fish than when the float is attached by upper end as well as +lower.</p> +<p><i>16. Do you strike at first dip</i>?</p> +<p>When good fish are on the feed, the float is first affected by +a slight tremulous movement, and almost immediately settles down, +generally in a slanting direction; the moment to strike is just +as the settling down <a name="page159"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 159</span>commences. This, however, +requires a large amount of practice and some keen observation +before an angler becomes expert. Sudden perky bites +indicate small fish, and these are often the most difficult to +catch.</p> +<p><i>17. Are the fish much affected by change of wind, +rain, thick water, etc., and is there any rule on this +head</i>?</p> +<p>Have always found a S.W. to N.W. wind the most favourable, +especially when the water is “grey” or thick, and +have had capital sport with a moderate east wind, but never when +it has blown strongly from that quarter, and the old maxim</p> +<blockquote><p>“When the wind blows from the east<br /> + The fish bite the least,<br /> +When the wind’s from the west<br /> + The fish bite the best,”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>contains a great truth in small compass. Fish may +undoubtedly be taken in clear water and in good quantity, but +running tackle and fine, and extreme caution are necessary.</p> +<p><i>18. Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or +loud talking frightens the fish</i>?</p> +<p>Loud talking or laughter in the boat does not appear to +intimidate the fish, but knocking or any disturbance which +communicates a vibration to the water is decidedly objectionable, +especially in shallower streams, and often causes a great +interruption to the fishing. Have found a pair of +lawn-tennis shoes or slippers very good to wear in a boat when +fishing, for this reason.</p> +<p><a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +160</span><i>19. Name some of the best catches you have +made or know of</i>.</p> +<p>I do not chronicle my catches, so can give no dates; but have +had some fine catches within the past five or six years, +principally on the Yare. On one occasion, at Buckenham, +with a friend, six stone <a name="citation160"></a><a +href="#footnote160" class="citation">[160]</a> between 2.30 and 7 +p.m.; another time upwards of five stone in about the same space +of time, and numerous catches of from two to four stone in an +afternoon’s fishing; also more than a bushel by measure one +afternoon with a friend fishing in the dyke leading to Oulton +Broad. This was in the first week of September, 1879.</p> +<p><i>20. What is the reason of the non-success of strange +anglers which is so noticeable</i>?</p> +<p>Ignorance of the general requirements of tackle suitable for +fishing in our waters, and also of the <i>modus operandi</i>, one +of the chief reasons being a want of knowledge of the right depth +at which to fish, which could easily be known by simply +“plumbing” the depth. By way of instance, I +have on several occasions found strangers fishing on the Yare in +12 or 14 feet of water, with their baits only about four or five +feet below the surface, and at the same time wondering that +anglers close by should be catching plenty of fish when they +could get none. Baits, too, are doubtless used which, +although very good for some streams or waters, are of very little +use with us.</p> +<p><a name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +161</span>N.B.—“When the wind blows strong and the +waves roll high,” it is often very difficult to fish or +even to detect a bite. This is very tantalising, and not +infrequently happens through a shift in the wind when you are in +a capital “swim.” The remedy for this is to put +on a nice light ledger, with about three hooks, and with which +excellent sport may sometimes be had when it would be impossible +to fish in any other way.</p> +<p>In float fishing for roach, the bait should be just touching +the bottom. A good plan adopted by some is to fish with two +hooks, the bottom one dragging on the bottom, and the upper one +about three or four inches clear of the bottom. This is an +advantage in fast streams, as it retards the onward motion of the +float, the bait is more easily taken, and the swims are not +passed so rapidly.</p> +<h3>BREAM.</h3> +<p><i>1. Where found at different periods of the +year</i>?</p> +<p>During summer, on the Yare, principally between Langley Dyke +and Reedham; in winter often found in good quantity in the +vicinity of Thorpe Broad and about Carrow and Trowse Hythe. +On the Bure they appear to congregate in the deep waters of the +Broads in winter, and make their appearance about the end of May +and through the summer on the river.</p> +<p><i>2. Best periods to fish for them</i>?</p> +<p>July and August.</p> +<p><a name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +162</span><i>3. What time of day at different +seasons</i>?</p> +<p>Good catches of bream are often had in early morning. I +have, on the other hand, had capital sport by moonlight.</p> +<p>For further notes, see answer to same question on +“Roach.”</p> +<p><i>4. What depth of water</i>?</p> +<p>The deepest waters and quietest eddies are, as a rule, the +best; but I have caught large quantities of fine bream at +Wroxham, on the Bure, in not more than four feet and a half of +water.</p> +<p><i>5. How affected by the tide</i>?</p> +<p>Generally speaking, the most fish are taken from about half an +hour before high water to half an hour after. For further +notes, see “Roach.”</p> +<p><i>6. What ground-bait</i>?</p> +<p>Boiled maize, boiled barley grains, barley meal made up into +balls, chopped worms, boiled rice. This latter and grains I +have found very killing on the Bure.</p> +<p><i>7. Are places ever baited beforehand</i>?</p> +<p>Mostly overnight, where there is a fair opportunity of doing +so. This mode is very telling on Broads and other still +waters.</p> +<p><i>8. What baits are most successful</i>?</p> +<p>For large fish at Cantley, Reedham, Somerleyton, and other +deep swift waters, ledger fishing, with the tail end of a lobworm +on the hook, is a capital bait. Generally speaking, +however, I have found “brandlings” the most <a +name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>killing, +and have found a brandling with a gentle placed on the point of +the hook will sometimes be taken readily when no other bait would +be touched. Red paste is often very killing on the +Bure.</p> +<p><i>9. What kind of rod</i>?</p> +<p>Strong and stiff cane or hickory, 15 to 18 feet long, with a +good stout top joint, on the Yare. Shorter will do on the +Bure.</p> +<p><i>10. Number of hook</i>?</p> +<p>The finest catch I ever had was with No. 12 hooks. This +was, however, in comparatively shallow water. Should say +that No. 7 or 8 would be very good sizes for bream fishing +generally.</p> +<p><i>11. Is running tackle advisable</i>?</p> +<p>See “Roach.”</p> +<p><i>12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of +line</i>?</p> +<p>See “Roach.”</p> +<p><i>13. What kind of float</i>?</p> +<p>See “Roach.”</p> +<p><i>14. Is line heavily shotted</i>?</p> +<p>In a similar way to that recommended for roach, but having the +bulk of shot placed nearer the hook, it being necessary that the +bait should “drag” the bottom.</p> +<p><i>15. Is float best attached by lower end only</i>?</p> +<p>As the bream bites more slowly and certain than the roach, +this is quite immaterial. I prefer float attached top and +bottom.</p> +<p><a name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +164</span><i>16. Do you strike at first dip</i>?</p> +<p>A bream bite affects the float with a slight bobbing motion +for a few seconds, he then runs off with it, and slides it down +slantingly; strike as he runs off with the bait or the float is +about to disappear, and you are sure of him.</p> +<p><i>17</i>. <i>Are the fish much affected by change of +wind, rain, thick water, etc., and is there any rule on this +head</i>?</p> +<p>Bream are rarely taken in any quantity when the waters are +very clear. See “Roach.”</p> +<p><i>18</i>. <i>Is legering successfully practised for +large bream, and what is the best modus operandi</i>?</p> +<p>In such rapid waters as those at Reedham, Somerleyton, +etc.—no other mode of fishing for bream can be practised +with any success worth naming—ledgers for attaching to line +may be purchased at any tackle shop at 1s. each, and the <i>modus +operandi</i> is very simple, and by no means scientific. +The rod requires to be very strong and of fair length, and three +or four rods may be used from one boat at the same time.</p> +<p><i>19. Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or +loud talking frightens the fish?</i></p> +<p>Bream are very sensitive to noise, especially knocking in the +boat, which invariably sends them off for an indefinite period, +and should therefore be most carefully avoided.</p> +<p><i>20. Name some of the best catches you have made or +known of</i>.</p> +<p><a name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 165</span>About +ten years ago, had, in company with a friend, a catch of 17 stone +in one day on Wroxham Broad, and with only one rod each. +Have heard of many catches from time to time of from 4 to 10 or +12 stone, but am unable now to give names or dates.</p> +<p><i>21. What is the reason of the non-success of strange +anglers which is so noticeable</i>?</p> +<p>See “Roach.”</p> +<p>N.B. In fishing for bream, the bait should always drag +on the bottom.</p> +<h2>YACHTING.</h2> +<p>It will have been gathered from the foregoing pages that the +Rivers and Broads of Norfolk and Suffolk present exceptional +facilities for small-boat sailing and smooth-water yachting, +better, perhaps, than any other part of England. There are +two yachting clubs, the Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club and the +Yare Sailing Club, the latter a very flourishing institution, +furnishing four or five regattas in the year for small 4-ton +yachts and open boats.</p> +<p>There are numbers of suitable yachts for hire, but, owing to +the frequent changes of ownership, it is not practicable to give +a list of those who have boats for hire, which would be of any +use. Enquiry at the inns at Oulton, and advertisements in +the Yarmouth and <a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +166</span>Norwich papers will generally elicit suitable +answers. Bullen, of Oulton, is a likely man to have a yacht +to let. Open sailing-boats with awnings to sleep under, and +small cabin yachts of four to ten tons, can be obtained of +Loynes, Wroxham; and comfortable craft they are. The +awnings of the small boats are waterproof, and most ingeniously +constructed, and the boats can be rowed or sailed anywhere. +Loynes may be trusted to provide everything that is necessary for +comfort, and his yachts and boats are largely patronized. +They are all rigged Una fashion, with one sail, and are very +easily managed. Canoes and rowing boats are in plenty at +the riverside, at Norwich, Yarmouth, and Oulton.</p> +<p>As before stated, the goods traffic on the river is carried on +by means of sailing craft of from 20 to 70 tons burthen, called +wherries. These are long, shallow, graceful vessels, with +an enormous mast, supporting one enormous sail. The sail is +spread by a long gaff, but there is no boom. There is only +one halyard, and the sail is hoisted by means of a winch at the +foot of the mast. There is no rigging to the mast except +the forestay, which is mainly of use for lowering the mast, the +latter being balanced on the tabernacle by a ton and a half of +lead on its heel, so that it is raised as easily as it is +lowered. These wherries sail very fast, very close to the +wind, and are often managed by one man. Yachts built on the +wherry plan are very comfortable craft, and easily managed.</p> +<p><a name="page167"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +167</span>Wherries are frequently hired by private parties, the +hatches are raised a plank or two higher to give greater +head-room, the clean-swept hold is divided into several rooms, +and a capital floating house is extemporized.</p> +<p>There is now quite a fleet of permanently-fitted pleasure +wherries on the rivers, which have ample accommodation for a +party or family, and are to be hired at from 8 to 15 guineas a +week.</p> +<p>A good way of seeing the rivers, if you have no boat, is to +give a wherryman a small sum to take you with him when he makes a +passage. There are always numbers of wherries leaving +Norwich and Yarmouth, and if you hail the one you fancy, you will +be readily taken on board. Thus you might sail from Norwich +to Yarmouth one day, up to Wroxham the next, back to Yarmouth and +up to Beccles, at an expenditure of half-a-crown a day and +refreshments. I am sure that visitors to either Yarmouth or +Lowestoft will do well to avail themselves of this +suggestion.</p> +<p>The navigation is controlled by Acts of Parliament, but +pleasure yachts are exempt from tolls, except, of course, at +locks and Haddiscoe lift bridge.</p> +<p>The rule of the road is very strictly adhered to by the +wherries and local yachts, and necessarily so; but it is a point +of honour not to harass business wherries if it can be avoided, +as these are sailed for a livelihood, while yachtsmen sail for +pleasure. Therefore, if there is a doubt, give the wherry +the benefit of it.</p> +<p><a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 168</span>It is +also a point of prudence not to cross a wherry’s bows too +closely, as they would soon smash up a yacht. If you are +civil to a wherryman he will be most civil to you, and +don’t slang him if he doesn’t at once give way for +you to pass him.</p> +<p>The following racing regulations of the Yacht Clubs simply +epitomise the custom and practice on the rivers, and must be +adhered to:</p> +<p>“That if two yachts be standing for the shore of any +river or broad, and the yacht to leeward be likely to run aground +or foul any bottom or bank, or not be able to stay without the +windward yacht running foul of her, the windward yacht must be +put about upon being hailed by the member of the Club who may be +in charge of the leeward yacht; the yacht to leeward must also go +about at the same time as the yacht she hails.</p> +<p>“That in sailing to windward the yacht on the port tack +must give way to the yacht on the starboard tack, and in case of +collision, the owner of the vessel on the port tack shall be +liable to pay all damages that may occur, and forfeit all claim +to the prize.</p> +<p>“That any yacht bearing away or altering her course to +windward or leeward, provided there is no obstruction to prevent +her keeping her course, thereby compelling another vessel to go +out of her course, shall forfeit all claim to the prize. In +running before the wind, the side the leading vessel carries her +main boom is to be considered the lee side.</p> +<p><a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +169</span>“A yacht overhauling another may pass to windward +or leeward; and when near the shore or shallow water, or when +rounding any mark, flag, or buoy, <i>if the bowsprit of the yacht +astern overlap any portion of the hull of the yacht ahead</i>, +the latter must immediately give way and allow the former to pass +between her and such shore, shallow water, mark, flag, or buoy; +and should any yacht not give way or compel another to touch the +ground, or to foul any mark, flag, or buoy, the yacht so +compelling her shall forfeit all claim to the prize, her owner +shall pay all damage that may occur, and the yacht so compelled +to touch such mark, flag, or buoy shall not in this case suffer +any penalty for such contact.</p> +<p>“It is an established rule, and should be most strictly +attended to by all yachtsmen, that where two vessels have to +cross each other on opposite tacks, the one on the starboard tack +must invariably keep her wind, and the one on the port tack must +keep away and pass to leeward, or tack short when the smallest +doubt exists of her not being able to weather the other. +All expenses of damage incurred by vessels on opposite tacks +running on board each other, fall upon the one on the port tack; +but where the one on the starboard tack has kept away with the +intention of passing to leeward, and they have come in contact, +the expenses of damage fall upon her on the starboard tack, +because by her keeping away she may have prevented the other +passing to leeward. When a vessel on the starboard tack +sees another <a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +170</span>attempting to weather her, when it does not seem +possible, rather than keep away, she should put her helm down, +for the less way vessels have when they come in contact, the less +damage they will sustain. Should both vessels put their +helms up and run on board each other, the most fatal consequences +may arise, and therefore nothing should induce the vessel on the +starboard tack to keep away. All vessels going free must +give way to those on a wind.”</p> +<h2>SHOOTING AND SKATING.</h2> +<p>This district is well worth a visit in the winter time, for +the wild-fowl shooting on the tidal portions of the rivers is +free (of course you must not trespass on the marshes for shooting +purposes, as the shooting along them is strictly +preserved). The usual plan is to row along the river while +your dogs work through the reeds on the bank inside the river +wall, or embankment, which generally runs parallel with the +rivers on each side. Flight shooting is also successfully +pursued, but of course you must obtain information as to the best +spots in the line of flight. Oulton Broad is free, but is +much shot over. Breydon Water is a capital fowling-ground +in hard winters. It is the “happy hunting +ground” of Yarmouth gunners. An easily managed +sailing-boat of light draught is useful for this kind of +work.</p> +<p><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +171</span>Winter time on the Broads is very enjoyable. +Being so shallow, the Broads are soon frozen, and the skating is +then simply superb. Fancy Hickling, a lake of 400 acres, +safe all over, with the ice as clear and hard as glass, <i>and +plenty of “elbow-room</i>” for ice-boats as well as +skaters.</p> +<p>It would be worth while for skating parties to come down for a +few days at a time while the frosts last, instead of struggling +amid the crowds which beset London waters.</p> +<h2>FAUNA OF THE BROADS.</h2> +<p>I cannot do more than cursorily mention the abundant life +which teems amid the Broads. I would refer the reader, for +a full account of the life of the Broads thirty years ago and +now, to that charming book, worthy to be ranked with “The +Complete Angler,” and “The Natural History of +Selborne,” “Observations on the Fauna of Norfolk, and +more particularly on the District of the Broads,” by the +Rev. Richard Lubbock, M.A., a new edition of which, with suitable +notes by Mr. Thomas Southwell, has lately been issued by Messrs. +Jarrold and Sons, London and Norwich. This book, together +with Stevenson’s “Birds of Norfolk,” are +necessary companions to the ornithologist on the Broads. +For a fuller general descriptive account of the district, I may +also refer the reader to my own larger book, “Norfolk +Broads and Rivers,” published by Blackwood.</p> +<p><a name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 172</span>Of +course, water-fowl predominate. The heron, the +great-crested grebe, the coot and water-hen are constantly to be +seen. Dabchicks abound in places. I have seen a score +together in some open water, at Surlingham, during a frost. +Kingfishers are seen occasionally; water-ouzels never in the +navigable waters. Wild ducks, widgeon, teal, and other +ducks, gulls, terns, and waders of many species, hawks, kestrels, +marsh harriers, and hen harriers are occasionally met with, +particularly about Hickling. Owls, reed wrens, reed +buntings, and bearded tits (I know a colony of the latter), and +other birds occur to me as I write, but detailed lists of the +Norfolk species will be found in the “Transactions of the +Norfolk and Norwich Naturalists’ Society” of past +years. It is sufficient to say that not only in the +department of ornithology, but of entomology and botany, the +specialist will find abundant work. During the days and +nights I have spent in the more secluded parts of the waters, and +particularly in the very early hours after daybreak, I have +watched the habits of certain rare species, and discovered their +haunts, which I would not reveal for anything, for to do so would +be to expose them to the ravages of collectors. I am not a +collector myself, nor have I the remotest pretension to science, +but I am an enthusiastic student of what I may call the +“home-life” of birds and animals. Therefore I +cannot give accurate scientific information, in the shape of +lists of Broad species without borrowing from the labours of +others, <a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +173</span>and the clothing the dry bones with flesh would require +more space than a guide-book will allow. But let a man lie +in a boat, amid the reeds, for an hour of the silvery dawn, and +watch a pair of great-crested grebes, feeding their young ones +with small fish, and teaching them to dive and catch fish also, +all so close that you might at times touch the birds with a +fishing-rod, and he will partly understand what to me is the +charm of Natural History. And for the romance of it there +is no place like the reed-surrounded Broad and its marshy +borders.</p> +<h2>Footnotes.</h2> +<p><a name="footnote29"></a><a href="#citation29" +class="footnote">[29]</a> This bridge was the scene of a +most disastrous railway collision, in September, 1874, when two +trains met, and an appalling loss of life resulted, 25 persons +being killed, and 60 or 70 injured.</p> +<p><a name="footnote70"></a><a href="#citation70" +class="footnote">[70]</a> [Note. This is left as +first written, but it is necessary now to say that since the +death of Mr. Chamberlin, the owners of the Broad have obtained a +decision in the Superior Courts that the public have no right to +fish on Wroxham Broad, and although the navigation question has +not been raised, the owners claim the Broad to be private +property. At the same time they courteously disclaim any +intention of closing the Broad to the reasonable enjoyment of the +public. Sailing on the Broad is freely permitted, but +yachts are not allowed to moor there at night, on account, it is +said, of the unavoidable refuse floating against the private +pleasure grounds of the owners. Persons also are not +allowed to land. It is to be hoped that the good behaviour +of the public will remove all idea of closing the Broad to the +public, which would be nothing short of a calamity. The +regattas on this Broad which used to be such sources of +amusement, have been quite discontinued, partly on account of the +difficulty in getting the present racing craft up the North +River, and partly through the reluctance of yacht owners to ask +the favour of sailing where they formerly supposed they had a +right.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote91"></a><a href="#citation91" +class="footnote">[91]</a> Sometimes called Wannick, or +Wandyke, said to be a corruption of Swandyke.</p> +<p><a name="footnote160"></a><a href="#citation160" +class="footnote">[160]</a> Stone = 14 lbs.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HANDBOOK TO THE RIVERS AND +BROADS OF NORFOLK & SUFFOLK***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 35954-h.htm or 35954-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/5/9/5/35954 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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