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authorRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-14 20:04:50 -0700
committerRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-14 20:04:50 -0700
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Handbook to the Rivers and Broads of
+Norfolk & Suffolk, by G. Christopher Davies
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Handbook to the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk & Suffolk
+
+
+Author: G. Christopher Davies
+
+
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2011 [eBook #35954]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HANDBOOK TO THE RIVERS AND
+BROADS OF NORFOLK & SUFFOLK***
+
+
+This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.
+
+ [Picture: Wroxham Broad]
+
+ Jarrolds’ “Holiday” Series.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+
+ THE HANDBOOK
+ TO THE
+ RIVERS AND BROADS
+ OF
+ NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
+
+
+ BY
+ G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES,
+ _Author of_ “_Norfolk Broads and Rivers_,” “_The Swan and her Crew_,”
+ _etc., etc_.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ REVISED AND ENLARGED.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ EIGHTEENTH EDITION.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ JARROLD AND SONS,
+ 3, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON;
+ LONDON AND EXCHANGE STREETS, NORWICH.
+
+ BRANCHES: 182, KING STREET, GREAT YARMOUTH;
+ THE LIBRARY, CROMER.
+
+ (_All rights reserved_.)
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+_Chapter_ _Page_
+ INTRODUCTION. xi
+ I. THE BROAD DISTRICT. 17
+ II. DOWN THE YARE—NORWICH TO REEDHAM. 22
+ III. REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH. 43
+ IV. YARMOUTH TO ACLE. 51
+ V. ACLE TO WROXHAM. 57
+ VI. WROXHAM BROAD. 68
+ VII. WROXHAM TO COLTISHALL. 75
+ VIII. UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 81
+ IX. WOMACK BROAD. 91
+ X. HICKLING BROAD. 98
+ XI. HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD. 106
+ XII. BACK TO YARMOUTH. 114
+ XIII. YARMOUTH TO SOMERLEYTON, UP THE WAVENEY. 117
+ XIV. FROM SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLES. 124
+ XV. OULTON BROAD. 129
+ XVI. ORMESBY AND FRITTON. 136
+ APPENDIX.
+RAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS 138
+NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT 143
+TABLES OF RIVER DISTANCES 148
+TIDES 151
+FISHING GENERALLY 151
+ ROACH 155
+ BREAM 161
+YACHTING 165
+SHOOTING AND SKATING 170
+FAUNA OF THE BROADS 171
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+ _Page_
+WROXHAM BROAD _Frontispiece_
+A POOL IN SURLINGHAM BROAD xvi
+PULL’S FERRY 22
+BISHOP’S BRIDGE 25
+BOOM TOWER 26
+THORPE GARDENS 29
+A NORFOLK WHERRY 30
+ON THE YARE, AT BRAMERTON 33
+ON ROCKLAND BROAD 36
+LANGLEY DYKE 38
+ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH, GREAT YARMOUTH 41
+THE QUAY, GREAT YARMOUTH 45
+A “ROW,” GREAT YARMOUTH 49
+ST. BENET’S ABBEY 54
+COTTAGE, SOUTH WALSHAM BROAD 58
+HORNING VILLAGE 60
+RANWORTH CHURCH 61
+HORNING FERRY 67
+BELAUGH CHURCH 73
+DYKE NEAR COLTISHALL 76
+LUDHAM BRIDGE 78
+RIVER BURE AT HAUTBOIS 79
+A WOODLAND POOL—IRSTEAD 82
+ENTRANCE—BARTON BROAD 87
+CARRYING REEDS—BARTON 88
+BARTON STAITHE 90
+ORMESBY BROAD—LANDING STAGE 91
+DRAINAGE MILL—RIVER THURNE 92
+RIVER THURNE 92
+HICKLING BROAD 99
+DYKE AT POTTER HEIGHAM 100
+HICKLING STAITHE 104
+MARTHAM BROAD 105
+SOUND ASLEEP 108
+SOMERLEYTON HALL 120
+RIVER WAVENEY 128
+OULTON BROAD 130
+FRITTON DECOY 137
+ORMESBY BROAD—LANDING STAGE 152
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+Since the first appearance of this Handbook, and the larger volume on the
+same subject, which the preface to the first edition stated to be in
+contemplation, the Broad District has become highly popular. Each year
+the tourist stream increases, but, happily, there is still plenty of
+room. No doubt some of the old _habitués_, who liked to have the whole
+landscape to themselves, grumble at the change, but the less selfish
+persons, who happily constitute the majority, do not object to seeing a
+dozen yachts where formerly they saw but one, or a score of anglers where
+in past years but half-a-dozen might be seen.
+
+A large trade has arisen in the letting of yachts, boats, and pleasure
+wherries for cruising purposes; but the inn accommodation has made little
+advance, and is still too meagre, and insufficient for the demand. The
+yachts have made great strides in speed and in number. The Norfolk and
+Suffolk Yacht Club has flourished exceedingly, and its regattas are
+popular.
+
+Artists have found out the charm of the quiet scenery of the Broads, and
+visit us in great numbers. Notably Mr. E. H. Fahey and Miss Osborn have
+given exhibitions in London devoted to the district. Then _littérateurs_
+without number have written magazine and newspaper articles, and others,
+after a few days’ scamper, have written exhaustive guide-books; and so
+the ball, which the present writer set rolling in earnest some years ago,
+is helped merrily forward, and the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk and
+Suffolk are fast becoming one of the most popular of English playgrounds.
+
+I should like to put the brake on a little in one respect. One
+guide-book writer appears to treat the riverside meadows as commons, and
+suggests that yachtsmen should bring lawn-tennis sets and cricket
+materials with them. Pray don’t take such absurd advice. All riparian
+owners adhere stoutly to their just rights. It must be remembered that
+the rights of the public are limited to _passage along_ the navigable
+rivers and the navigable broads, and the use of the banks of navigable
+waters for mooring purposes and for towing. The soil of the greater part
+of the river-beds is vested in the Crown, therefore angling is free to
+the public. Strictly speaking, the shooting over the Crown rivers is
+free, but this does not give persons a right to shoot an inch over the
+banks. Looking to the fact that the Bure is very narrow, and passes
+through private game preserves, let me earnestly entreat visitors not to
+fire off guns either at birds or at bottles (which last amusement appears
+to be a favourite one) above Acle bridge. The sport to the visitors is
+_nil_, while the annoyance to the riparian owners is extreme. The
+riparian owners are generally willing to afford the well-behaved public
+all reasonable facilities for enjoyment. Let this be repaid by the
+public refraining from potting away at waterhens and pigeons, or other
+birds on the banks.
+
+It may be well to add that, up to about the year 1830, the Broads and wet
+marshes were simply waste; but by the Enclosure Acts and Awards, these
+watery commons were allotted and divided among the neighbouring
+landowners. In some cases the rights of navigation and staithes were
+expressly reserved. In others no reservation was made, and the Broads
+are absolutely in the hands of private owners. In other cases again,
+staithes and rights of way have grown into disuse, and channels have
+become choked up by mud and vegetation. In no case, however, has the
+right of the Crown to the bed of the common river been affected or
+changed by the Enclosure Awards.
+
+A great point to remember is, that the possessors of the Broads set as
+much store by their bulrushes and water lilies as the admiring visitor;
+therefore, do not gather any off the Broads. All flowers and grasses
+which grow in such luxuriance by the riverside, within the river wall, or
+the three yards from the river margin where the navigator has an
+indefeasible right, may as well be gathered for pleasure as die and rot.
+Here there is abundance for everyone; but to penetrate into quiet nooks
+of Broads and help oneself to other people’s valued property, is an
+indefensible act, which by oft repetition has much irritated owners
+against the public. It is in this respect also that visitors from a
+distance are most prone to err, because, without reflection, it appears
+that no harm is done. Nor would there be much harm in a single instance,
+but “many a little makes a mickle.”
+
+As a general rule, visitors from a distance behave exceedingly well,
+being educated persons with a due sense of law and order. The bottle
+shooters, coot potters, and noisy revellers, the swan’s egg robbers and
+grebe destroyers, the persons who use one’s boat-houses as luncheon rooms
+or dust bins are, unfortunately, home products. Of course, I hear of all
+offences that are committed, and by some people I am actually saddled
+with the responsibility of any breach of good manners on the part of the
+public, because I am supposed to have brought the latter to the Broads.
+I therefore beg the large unknown public (of whose friendliness to me as
+an author I have had so many proofs), when they visit the Broads, not to
+allow the exhilaration of an enjoyable holiday to interfere with a due
+propriety of behaviour.
+
+The hitherto unwritten rules of the Rivers and Broads are these:—
+
+Do not, in the neighbourhood of other yachts or houses, indulge in songs
+and revelry after eleven p.m., even at regatta times.
+
+Bathe only before eight o’clock in the morning, if in sight of other
+vessels or moored in a frequented part of the river. Ladies are not
+expected to turn out before eight, but after that time they are entitled
+to be free from any annoyance. Young men who lounge in a nude state on
+boats while ladies are passing (and I have known Norwich youths to do
+this) may be saluted with dust shot, or the end of a quant.
+
+Adhere strictly to the rule of the road when boating, according to the
+instructions contained in a subsequent chapter, and when angling, moor
+out of the way of sailing craft, as afterwards explained.
+
+Do not throw straw or paper overboard to float to leeward and become
+offensive; but burn, or take care to sink all rubbish.
+
+Do not light fires, place stoves, or throw refuse on the banks in the
+path of others, whose yachts may be moored to the same bank.
+
+Steam launches must not run at full speed past yachts moored to the bank,
+particularly when the occupants of the latter have things spread out for
+a meal.
+
+Don’t take guns on board unless you have leave to shoot on somebody’s
+land.
+
+Remember that sound travels a long way on the water, and do not criticise
+the people you may encounter with too loud a voice.
+
+Don’t go on a friend’s yacht with nailed shoes (the commodore of a Thames
+sailing club once came on board mine in cricket shoes armed with spikes).
+Don’t knock the ashes out of your pipe into his boat, and don’t catch
+small fish and litter his decks with them, leaving them for him to clean
+up after you.
+
+ [Picture: A pool in Burlingham Broad]
+
+Don’t moor outside another yacht without the permission of its owner.
+
+Ladies, please don’t gather armfuls of flowers, berries, and grasses
+which, when faded, you leave in the boat or yacht for the unfortunate
+skipper to clear up. Don’t play the piano in season and out of season
+(the reedbird’s song is sweeter on the Broads); and don’t turn out before
+eight o’clock in the morning when other yachts are near.
+
+Observing all these simple maxims, any number of visitors will find
+plenty of room for their own enjoyment, without offence to anyone.
+
+ [Picture: View of Sailing boats and Yachts]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+THE “BROAD” DISTRICT.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] It is somewhat difficult to analyse
+the charm which the “Broad” District of Norfolk and Suffolk has for those
+who have once made its acquaintance in the only way in which an intimate
+knowledge of it can be gained.
+
+In a journey through it by rail, you see nothing but its flatness; walk
+along its roads, you see the dullest side of it; but take to its
+water-highways, and the glamour of it steals over you, if you have aught
+of the love of nature, the angler, or the artist in you.
+
+One reason may be that the rivers are highways. From them you view
+things as from a different standpoint; along them flows a current of life
+differing from that on either rail or road: the wind is your servant,
+sometimes your master; there is an uncertainty in the issue of the day’s
+proceedings, which to an idle holidaymaker is most delightful, and the
+slowly-moving water is more like a living companion than any other
+inanimate thing can be. Houses are few and far between. Oftentimes
+within the circle of your sight there is neither house nor man visible.
+A grey church tower, a windmill, or the dark-brown sail of a wherry in
+the distance breaks the sense of utter loneliness, but the scene is wild
+enough to enchain the imagination of many. Long miles of sinuous
+gleaming river, marshes gay with innumerable flowering plants, wide
+sheets of water bordered with swaying reeds, yachts or wherries, boats,
+fish, fowl, and rare birds and plants, and exquisite little bits to paint
+and sketch—these are the elements out of which a pleasant holiday may be
+made.
+
+I wrote these lines whilst at anchor on Salhouse Little Broad. The
+evening was most still and placid, and the boat lay motionless among the
+lily leaves which covered the water around. The white lilies had so
+closed their petals that but the faintest morsels of white peeped out;
+but the yellow, which were most numerous, did not close so completely,
+and the dark interspaces of water were thickly starred with the golden
+globes. Beyond the lily leaves was a belt of tall reeds, swayed only by
+the birds which have their home among them. The yellow iris flowers made
+the narrow neck of marsh ablaze with colour. Bounding the view was a
+cordon of trees; on the one side a wooded bank; on the other, but out of
+sight, the river. A rustic boathouse nestled amid the trees, white swans
+lighted up the dark shades, moorhens led their broods across the pool;
+the western clouds were edged with sunset glories, and the reflections in
+the water were as perfect as the things they copy. But though there was
+absolute calm, the lily leaves were not still, but moved tremulously, and
+sent ripples on either side. Looking closely, you saw that the leaves
+were covered with small insects, and the small roach were busily plucking
+them off the under side. You could hear the little snap or suck the
+fishes made, and once you caught the sound you found the air was full of
+these snaps, and a most weird effect the sound gave. The roach crowded
+eagerly round to eat the crumbs that I threw them. So fearless were
+they, that when I put my hand into the water and held it quite still for
+a while, they came and snapped at my fingers, and funny little tickling
+scrapes they gave. I actually succeeded in grasping one or two of the
+boldest. A piece of paper, which had been crumpled up and thrown on the
+water, was being urged to and fro by the hungry little fish, who tried to
+find it eatable, and tugged at it bravely.
+
+The clouds darkened. I went into my cabin as a squall of wind and rain
+came on. The thunder grew louder and louder, and there, alone, with the
+tempest raging, I could yet write that the end of the evening was as
+pleasant as the beginning, so great to me is the charm of the water.
+
+I slung my hammock, hoping that on the following day the sun would shine,
+the wind would blow, and the hours would pass as quickly as the boat
+sailed, and slept as sound as man may.
+
+It has happened that I have written a good deal about these waters—too
+much, some people say. One result has been that I have been pretty well
+overpowered with correspondence arising from persons making enquiries
+about the district, with a view to visiting it; therefore, when the
+publishers requested me to write a kind of handbook or guide to the
+Broads and Rivers, I thought it a good idea, in that enquirers might, by
+buying such a book, save themselves the trouble of writing to me, and
+getting necessarily short and inadequate replies. I am afraid, however,
+the guide-book style is rather beyond me, and I shall be most at home if
+I try to convey the requisite information by describing one of the
+numerous cruises in which I have sailed as guide to those friends who
+have trusted their holidays to my care, and I will select one lasting but
+a fortnight, during which time we covered most of the available ground.
+
+Before doing so, a few words, descriptive of the situation of these
+rivers and lakes, will not be amiss.
+
+From Yarmouth, looking inland, three main water-highways radiate. The
+chief is the Yare, flowing from the westward; then comes the Bure,
+flowing from the north-westward, and having her large tributaries, the
+Ant and the Thurne, flowing from the northward. From the south-west come
+the clear waters of the Waveney. All these rivers are navigable for
+considerable distances, and on the Bure and its tributaries the greater
+number of the Broads are situate. These Broads are large shallow lakes,
+connected with the rivers, and are many of them navigable. Flat marshes
+follow the lines of the rivers, and while higher and well-wooded ground
+rises near the upper portions of the rivers, near the sea the country is
+perfectly flat, and vessels sailing on all three rivers are visible at
+the same time.
+
+The level of the marsh is frequently below that of the rivers, and at the
+outlet of each main drain is a drainage pump, or turbine wheel, sometimes
+worked by a windmill, and sometimes by steam, which pumps the water out
+of the drains into the rivers.
+
+The fall of the river is about four inches to the mile. The ebb and flow
+of the tide are felt for thirty miles inland, but its rise and fall are
+very little indeed. There are no impediments to navigation of any
+consequence, so it may be imagined what a “happy hunting ground” this is
+to the boat-sailor, the naturalist, and the angler.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter end divider]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header divider]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+DOWN THE YARE. NORWICH TO REEDHAM.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] “Do you mean to say,” said Wynne,
+“that these Broads are worth my giving up a few days to seeing them?”
+
+“If you will give up a fortnight, I promise you that you will find it too
+short. You went to the Friesland Meres years ago, and enjoyed it. You
+will like these quite as well.”
+
+ [Picture: Pull’s Ferry]
+
+So he promised to come for a fortnight, rather reluctantly, and when, on
+his arrival in Norwich, he took a preliminary canter by rail to Yarmouth,
+he refused to say anything about what he thought of the country, which
+looked ominous. We had hired a ten-ton cutter, and she was lying at
+Thorpe, a mile and a half below the city. The man we had engaged rowed
+the jolly-boat up for us, and as Wynne was enthusiastic about old
+buildings, we rowed him up the river to the New Mills, a very old mill,
+which spans the river Wensum near its entrance into the city. From
+thence we came back along the narrow sinuous river, overhung with
+buildings, many of them ancient and picturesque, under numerous bridges,
+wharves where wherries were loading or unloading, using the half-lowered
+mast as cranes, past the Boom Tower, still keeping watch and ward over
+the river; quaint Bishops’ Bridge; Pull’s Ferry, where there is a ruined
+water gate, often sketched and photographed; past the railway station,
+into the reach parallel with King Street, where gables, and archways, and
+courts delight the painter. Here, on the left bank, is another Boom
+Tower, built of flint, the universal building-stone of Norfolk, faced by
+another tower on the opposite bank, whence runs a fine piece of the old
+city wall up the hill to another and larger tower, in better
+preservation, on the summit. Then we next passed the very extensive
+works of Messrs. J. and J. Colman, and below them innumerable stacks of
+choice wood, out of which the boxes to contain the mustard, etc., are
+made.
+
+ [Picture: Bishop’s Bridge]
+
+ [Picture: Boom Tower]
+
+“You speak of this as the Wensum,” said Wynne; “I thought it was the
+Yare.”
+
+“This river is the Wensum, but this smaller stream coming in on the right
+is the true Yare, and from this point the united river takes the name of
+the Yare. This spot is called Trowse Hythe, and half a mile up it, where
+there is a mill, was once a famous spot for smelts, where they were
+caught by large casting nets, used at night by torch-light, but the town
+sewage has effectually spoiled the smelting. The pool below the New
+Mills was also a place where the smelts were caught in large numbers, but
+it is not so good now.”
+
+ [Picture: Thorpe Gardens]
+
+Presently we came to Thorpe, where a bend of the river has been cut off
+by two railway bridges, and a straight new cut made for the navigation.
+We took the old river, and Wynne was charmed with the view which then
+unfolded itself. The long curve of the river was lined on the outer bank
+by picturesque houses, with gardens leading to the water’s edge, while
+behind them rose a well-wooded bank. In the autumn of 1879 this reach
+was found to be swarming with pike, and it speedily swarmed with anglers,
+who had generally good sport until, apparently, all the pike were caught.
+At intervals since, there have been similar immigrations of pike to this
+reach when tides unusually high or salt drive the fish up from the lower
+reaches. At the lower end of the reach is a favourite resort on summer
+evenings, a waterside inn, known as Thorpe Gardens, where we pulled up.
+Here there are also boat-letting stations, where cruising yachts can be
+hired.
+
+Just through the bridge, {29} we joined the main river again, and noticed
+several yachts moored against the bank, amongst which was ours.
+
+Wynne stepped on board, curious to inspect a Norfolk yacht, and he freely
+commented on her enormous counter, short keel, great open well, and tall
+pole-mast. In a short time we stowed all our belongings, and set
+sail—mainsail, jib, and topsail—the spread of canvas rather startling
+Wynne, who had only been used to sea yachts. There was a light
+north-westerly wind, and we glided swiftly away before it. But ere we
+had sailed a couple of hundred yards, Wynne insisted on our stopping to
+sketch the White House, at Whitlingham, which, with the trees on the
+hill, the wood-shaded reach of river, and the huge brown sails of the
+wherries, formed a picture we might well wish to carry away. Wynne often
+stopped in this way, to the intense disgust of our man, who liked to make
+his passages quickly, and had no sympathy with artistic amusements.
+
+The dyke leading out of the river by the White House is a regular harbour
+for pike, which is continually restocked from the river. It is private
+property, but just at the mouth of the dyke, in the navigable river, is a
+good spot. At least three hundred pike were taken here last winter by
+Norwich artisans.
+
+“What graceful craft these wherries, as you call them, are!” remarked
+Wynne, as he rapidly sketched the high-peaked sail of one which was
+slowly beating to windward or “turning,” as the vernacular hath it, up
+the narrow river.
+
+[Picture: A Norfolk Wherry] And he was quite right. There is not a line
+that is not graceful about a Norfolk wherry. She has a long low hull
+with a rising sheer to stem and stern, which are both pointed. She has a
+tall and massive mast supporting a single large sail which is without a
+boom, but has a very long gaff launching out boldly at an angle of
+forty-five degrees. The curve of the brown or black sail from the lofty
+peak to the sheet is on all points of sailing a curve of beauty. The
+wherries are trading crafts carrying from twenty to fifty tons of cargo.
+They are manned generally by one man, who sometimes has the aid of his
+wife or children. They are nearly as fast as yachts, sail closer to the
+wind, and are wonderfully handy. The mast is weighted at the keel with
+one or two tons of lead, and is so well balanced that a lad can lower or
+raise it with the greatest ease, when it is necessary to pass under a
+bridge. Wherries are the most conspicuous objects in a Norfolk broad
+landscape, and are in sight for miles, as they follow the winding courses
+of the rivers, often nothing but the sail visible above the green marsh.
+
+Very many of these wherries have been converted into sailing house boats
+or pleasure barges, and so constitute most admirable floating homes for
+those who like cruising with greater comfort than small yachts can give.
+
+It was an hour before we got under way again, and when, after sailing
+down the long straight reach by Whitlingham, we came in sight of the
+eminence known as Postwick Grove, Wynne wished to land in order that he
+might see the view from the top. The man burst into open grumbling, so
+we asked him if the trip were undertaken for his pleasure or ours, and on
+his reluctantly admitting that it was for ours, we told him it was our
+pleasure to do as we liked, and he resigned himself to his fate. The
+watermen on these rivers are very civil, but they look with disfavour
+upon anything which interferes with actual sailing.
+
+Well, the view from Postwick was worth seeing. The curving reaches of
+the river, animated with yachts, wherries, and boats, lay beneath us, and
+the green marshes were bounded by the woods of Thorpe, Whitlingham, and
+Bramerton, while the ruined church of Whitlingham stood boldly on the
+brow of the opposite hill.
+
+Under way again, we presently reached Bramerton, where the “Wood’s End”
+public-house offers good cheer to the wherryman and boating-man.
+
+The pleasure-steamers which run between Norwich and Yarmouth afford a
+quick but less pleasant way of seeing the river, and stop at Bramerton
+nearly every day in the week.
+
+Now the higher ground falls away from the river on each side of us, and
+the belt of marshes widens, the river is higher than the surface of the
+land, and the water is lifted out of the many drains and dykes by means
+of turbine wheels, worked by the windmills which form such conspicuous
+objects in the landscape, and by more pretentious steam drainage mills.
+
+ [Picture: On the Yare, at Bramerton]
+
+Surlingham Ferry, 6 miles by river from Norwich, next came into view.
+The house, with its picturesque gables, lies in the shadow of a group of
+fine trees. A horse and cart was being ferried across on the huge raft
+as we approached, and the chain was only just dropped in time for us to
+pass.
+
+There is a good inn at the Ferry, with limited but comfortable staying
+accommodation; and excellent roach fishing is often obtainable. The
+shore above the Ferry on the same side is suitable for mooring yachts to,
+as there is a fair depth of water close to the bank.
+
+“What numbers of boats there are with people fishing?” said Wynne. “Do
+they all catch anything?”
+
+“Oh, yes, any quantity, as far as number goes, of roach, and bream, and
+some good fish too, but the larger fish are caught in the deeper water,
+lower down.”
+
+Coldham Hall is the next fishing station of importance. There is a good
+inn there, and plenty of boats for hire at a cheap rate. Fishing and
+other boats can also be obtained at Messrs. H. Flowers and Co.’s new
+boating station, where yachts can be moored and laid up. As the railway
+station (Brundall) is close to it, it is very convenient for anglers.
+The mooring places at Brundall and Coldham Hall are not many, as the
+banks are very shoal. In the reach between Brundall and Coldham Hall
+only the middle third of the river is navigable for yachts; and the same
+may be said of the long reach below Coldham Hall. We could see
+half-a-dozen fishing boats under the lee of the point above the station.
+It seems a favourite place, for I never passed it without seeing
+fishermen there. But as the man had to sail the yacht round the great
+curve of the river, we took a short cut across Surlingham Broad in the
+jolly.
+
+This Broad lies within a horse-shoe bend of the river, and has a
+navigable channel across it. It is not deep enough, however, for yachts
+or laden wherries. The Broad is largely affected by the tide, which
+sometimes leaves its shallows exposed. The river, as I should have said,
+is tidal up to Norwich, and the force of the tide increases with every
+deepening of Yarmouth Haven. We rowed up the dyke which leads on to the
+Broad, a small sheet of water, overgrown with weeds and very shallow, but
+a capital nursery for fish and fowl. The fishing upon it is preserved.
+Rowing across it, we entered another dyke, and emerged into the river
+again, and caught up the yacht.
+
+ [Picture: On Rockland Broad]
+
+Snipe abound on the marshes here, and their drumming can always be heard
+in the early summer. The flat, far-reaching marshes glowed with a
+thousand tints of flower and grass, and the iris gleamed brightly in the
+lush margins of the river. We sailed quietly on, down the curving
+reaches of the widening river, watching the slow-seeming flight of the
+heron, the splash of fish, the bending reeds, and the occasional
+boat-loads of anglers, until we came to the mouth of a dyke, about a mile
+long, up which we again rowed in the jolly, to explore Rockland Broad,
+where the open water is much more extensive than at Surlingham. Here
+there are several eel-fishers’ floating abodes, Noah’s-ark-like
+structures, with nets and “liggers” dangling about them. The fishing and
+shooting on the Broad are, at present, open to all.
+
+This Broad is also much affected by the tide, as, notwithstanding its
+distance from the river, there are numerous connecting dykes permitting
+easy flow and re-flow of water.
+
+Back in the yacht again, we reached Buckenham Ferry (ten and a half
+miles), a favourite angling rendezvous, with a railway station of the
+same name close by. A long row of trees on the left bank is the cause of
+daily trouble to wherrymen and sailormen, as it shuts off the wind. The
+man who plants trees by the side of a navigable river, where the
+navigation depends upon the wind, is the very reverse of a benefactor to
+mankind, and only selfishness or thoughtlessness can permit such an act.
+
+There is fair mooring for yachts just below the Inn, on the same side,
+but they must be kept well off the shore by poles, or as the tide ebbs
+they will strand and perhaps fall over. The Ferry Inn is noted for its
+comfort; and its limited staying accommodation is good. The fishing is
+very good both up and down the river, and there are good boats for hire
+for fishing purposes.
+
+The river now becomes very wide and deep, and the shoals near the banks,
+which abound in the higher reaches, are not so frequent. I would call
+the especial attention of the river authorities to the disgraceful state
+of the river as far as Buckenham Ferry. Each year the shoals and weeds
+increase, and the channel narrows, until in some places not more than a
+third of the river-width is available for the navigation. The natural
+consequence will be that the navigation must gradually cease to be made
+use of, as it becomes a matter of difficulty, and the railway will take
+the trade, which might be kept to the river if a more energetic care of
+the navigable stream were taken. This is a most serious matter, and
+ought to be attended to.
+
+ [Picture: Langley Dyke]
+
+Next is Langley Dyke, near which are the reaches of the river where the
+principal regattas are held, and by the river side is Cantley Red House
+(fourteen miles). Cantley railway station is very close to the river,
+and as the water is deep close to the bank, and there is some fairly firm
+ground, this is a favourite yachting station, with good mooring to the
+banks. Comfortable quarters may be had at the Red House, and the fishing
+is good all about. A little lower down, on the same side of the river,
+is another house, “Peart’s,” where one may obtain comfortable
+accommodation, and a “dock” where small boats may be safely left.
+
+We delayed so long on our way that the wind was falling, as it usually
+does towards five o’clock on summer days: the tide had also turned, and
+we had it against us, so our progress was slow. We passed the mouth of
+the Chet on our right, navigable some four miles up to Loddon. Its mouth
+is marked by Hardley Cross, which forms the boundary between the Norwich
+and Yarmouth jurisdictions over the river. We barely made headway as a
+public-house on the left, called Reedham Ferry, was reached, and a little
+lower down we lay to against the “rond,” or bank, and made all snug for
+the night. A little further is Reedham village (eighteen miles), which
+is picturesquely situated on high ground on the north bank of the river.
+The railway station is close by, and is the junction between the
+Yarmouth, Lowestoft, and Norwich lines. There is staying accommodation
+to be had at Reedham. Yachts can be moored against the south bank above
+the bridge, but should not be left unguarded, as the tide runs strong,
+and wherries tacking through the bridge often jam up against the bank.
+
+[Picture: Roach] The stove was soon alight, and the kettle on, while we
+walked to the village for eggs and milk. As the gloaming deepened, Wynne
+grew poetical over the scene of wide space there was about us, filled
+then with an orange glow from the west, while the swallows skimmed the
+river, and struck red drops of spray from the surface. Then when the
+awning was spread over the stern sheets, and the lamp lit up the snug
+cabin, Wynne smoked contentedly, to the envy of the writer, who cannot
+smoke; and it was later than it ought to have been ere we lay down in our
+respective bunks, and were lulled to sleep by the ripple of the water
+against the planks.
+
+ [Picture: St. Nicholas’ Church, Great Yarmouth]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative Chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] The next morning we were up betimes to
+take the last of the ebb down to Yarmouth, and catch the tide up the
+Bure. As there was a fresh breeze from the east, we had to tack nearly
+the whole of the way.
+
+At Reedham there is a swing bridge, over which the railway passes, and if
+the wind is foul it is always a difficult matter to sail through,
+particularly if the tide be against you. On the present occasion we had
+the tide with us; therefore, on reaching the opening of the bridge, we
+could shoot the yacht up into the wind, and carry her way on until
+through, when her head was paid off on the proper tack.
+
+“I tell you what, these Norfolk waters are capital places to learn to
+steer in. An inch either way, and we should have torn our sail against
+the bridge.”
+
+“Yes, and what with getting the utmost on every tack, without going
+ashore, shaving wherries by a yard or two, and watching for every puff as
+it comes over the grasses on the marsh, so as to make the most of it,
+there is more fun in sailing here than on more open waters.”
+
+Just below the bridge is the _New Cut_, a perfectly straight canal, three
+miles long, connecting the Yare with the Waveney, and so saving a round
+of some eighteen miles, which would otherwise be necessary to get from
+the one river to the other, as a reference to the map will show.
+
+Now came a steady beat for several miles, until we reached the Berney
+Arms (on the right is the mouth of the river Waveney), when Breydon water
+opened out before us, with Yarmouth in the distance. When the tide is
+in, this is a remarkable sheet of water, four and a-half miles long by a
+mile broad. There are mud flats on either side of the wide channel,
+where herons and sea-fowl greatly congregate. The strong wind against
+the tide raises a respectable sea, and the tacks being longer we made
+rapid progress, and the motion was exhilarating. A sail across Breydon
+in a strong wind, is a thing I always consider a great treat. The
+channel is marked out by stout posts at intervals of two hundred yards or
+thereabouts, but it is not safe to sail too close to all these posts
+unless the tide be high, as the shoals stretch out beyond them, and, in
+default of local knowledge, it is best to give them a wide berth.
+
+ [Picture: The Quay, Great Yarmouth]
+
+The spires of Yarmouth grow more distinct, and at last we arrived at its
+quays, just as the tide was on the turn. We made fast alongside a wherry
+moored to the quay, and while our man, with the assistance of one of the
+loiterers on the quay, lowered the mast, and quanted the yacht up the
+narrow mouth of the Bure and under two bridges, we took a stroll about
+the quays, the quaint “rows” and streets of the old part of the town, and
+had a peep at the splendid church.
+
+The ebb tide runs very strongly, and, to avoid being carried against the
+bridge which spans the contracted harbour, it is prudent for the stranger
+to have an anchor in readiness. The public quays are on the north side
+next the town, and a berth alongside a wherry or other yacht can be
+chosen. There are private moorings laid down alongside the south shore
+off “Cobholm Island,” and it is customary, in case of need, to bring up
+to one of these, if vacant; but a yacht must not be moored there, or
+alongside another yacht there, without permission. If the visitor is
+nervous or inexperienced, he can avail himself of the services of one of
+the watermen loafing about the quays, to help him through the fixed
+bridges which block the entrance to the river Bure, which here enters the
+harbour.
+
+[Picture: Bream] The river bends to the south at an acute angle with its
+former course, and for about three miles runs very close to, and almost
+parallel with the sea. It is interesting to row past the wharves and
+quays, where many quaint and picturesque bits present themselves, but on
+account of the rapid flow of the tide, it is not a part of the river much
+frequented by the river yachts.
+
+ [Picture: A “row”, Great Yarmouth]
+
+As Yarmouth has guide-books all to itself, it is not necessary here to
+expatiate upon its attractions.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+YARMOUTH TO ACLE.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] On going back to the yacht, we found
+that she was moored in the North River, or Bure, having been quanted
+under the two fixed bridges, and the mast was being slowly raised. The
+big pole masts of these river yachts are very heavy and unwieldy, and I
+am always glad when the operation of lowering and raising them again is
+safely over. Sometimes they have lead weights permanently fixed to the
+heel of the mast (which latter swings in a tabernacle), but generally,
+lumps of ballast have to be shifted and hooked on, a troublesome
+“pinch-finger” business which I avoid in my own yacht by using a tackle
+and blocks.
+
+Of course the wind was fair, as our course up the Bure lies north for a
+mile or two, and then due west as far as Acle; and it is well when it is
+fair, for the next twelve miles are very uninteresting. There is nothing
+whatever to see, except eel sets and boats. These Noah’s-ark-like craft
+are generally made out of old sea boats, with a hut built on them. They
+are shoved a little way up a dyke, out of the way of wherries, and the
+eel net is stretched across the stream, waiting for the eels, in their
+annual migrations seawards, to swim into it. Those two wooden buoys, one
+on each side of the river, mark its position.
+
+Almost at our first starting, we got aground; hard and fast too, for the
+shoals are frequent hereabout. We waited for the tide to float us off,
+and to help it we sent a rope ashore to a man on the bank. The rope was
+not quite long enough, and Wynne undertook to bend another to it. The
+man set all his weight on it, the knot parted, and the man disappeared on
+the other side of the embankment, where there was, we knew, a deep ditch.
+Presently he reappeared, dripping wet, and in a towering passion. He
+refused to assist us any more, so we waited a little longer, and as the
+tide rose, we were again afloat.
+
+Once round the bend by the Two-mile House we sped away at top speed to
+the westward, with frequent jibes as the river bends. The great boom
+came over with tremendous force, and made the yacht quiver again,
+although we eased it all we could by rallying in the sheet. The low,
+dull banks passed rapidly by, the only land-marks being solitary houses,
+known as the three-mile, four-mile, five-mile, six-mile, and seven-mile
+houses. Then we came to Stokesby Ferry, where there is a group of
+houses, which would make a picture, and an inn, where there is tolerable
+accommodation, called the Ferry House. Then, on the right, are some
+sluices, marking the entrance to the “Muck Fleet,” a shallow, muddy dyke,
+only navigable for small boats, which leads to the fine group of Broads
+known as Ormesby and Filby Broads. Of these we shall have something to
+say afterwards. A separate excursion has to be made to them, as they do
+not come within the round of a yachting trip, unless you drag your jolly
+over the sluices, and row the four-miles-long Muck Fleet. Having once
+tried this experiment, I cannot recommend others to do it.
+
+A mile and a half further on, and we came to Acle bridge, twelve miles
+from Yarmouth. Here is a fixed bridge, where the mast has to be lowered.
+When we got through this we stopped for dinner, and then, although we
+might have sailed up to Wroxham with the wind before dark, we were fated
+to spend the night here, in consequence of a freak of Wynne’s. In the
+exuberance of his spirits, he attempted to jump a wide dyke, using the
+quant as a leaping-pole. As a matter of course, the pole sank deep into
+the mud, and when it attained an upright position, it refused to depart
+from it, and so checked Wynne in mid-air.
+
+“Whatever is going to happen now?” he exclaimed, and after a frantic
+gymnastic exercise on the top of the quant, it slowly bent, and finally
+broke, depositing Wynne on his back in the middle of the dyke.
+
+We fairly shrieked with laughter, and, as Wynne said, it served him
+right, for laughing as he did at the man rolling into the ditch, when the
+rope gave way.
+
+As we had to get a new quant from Yarmouth, we had to wait here until the
+morning, and amuse ourselves with fishing for bream, of which large
+quantities may be caught here, and of good weight. Acle is a capital
+fishing station, and is now accessible from Norwich by the new line to
+Yarmouth, branching off at Brundall. Acle is a charming village, and
+offers many residential facilities to those who are fond of country life
+and aquatic amusements. It is within easy reach of all the best Broads,
+lying on the rivers Bure and Thurne, and not far by water to Yarmouth.
+There are three good inns—the “King’s Head,” the “Queen’s Head,” and the
+“Angel.” The most convenient is the one by Acle bridge (the “Angel”),
+kept by Mr. Rose, who well understands and can supply the needs of
+yachting men and anglers. There is staying accommodation at the inn, a
+wagonnette to meet the trains, fishing boats to let, and every attention
+from the host. As there is good mooring to both banks, especially above
+the bridge, and the river is wide and deep, Acle is rapidly becoming a
+favourite yachting and angling station.
+
+ [Picture: St. Benet’s Abbey]
+
+Owing to the wide breadth of marsh there is a true wind for sailing, and
+the reaches above Acle to Thurnemouth are wider and finer than any other
+parts of the Bure.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+ACLE TO WROXHAM.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] The wind, on the next morning, was
+from the north-west, a head wind for us, and there was little of it; so
+little, indeed, that we could not stem the tide, and had to quant for
+three miles. Then we came to the mouth of the river Thurne, leading to
+Hickling Broad, up which we intended to sail on our return from Wroxham.
+The Bure turns off sharply to the west, and as the wind gradually gained
+in strength, we were able to dispense with the unwelcome labour of
+quanting.
+
+The first noteworthy spot that we came to was St. Benet’s Abbey, situated
+on the north bank of the river. Once upon a time it must have been a
+mighty building, covering much ground, as its scattered ruins testify.
+Now nought reminds us of its founder, sensible King Canute, but a fine
+archway, with some contiguous walls, upon which a windmill has been
+erected, but which is now itself in ruins, and two massive parallel
+walls, standing about two hundred yards to the eastward; also, there are
+arched doorways, and strong walls in the house by the riverside, whose
+cool recesses speak of ancient days. This house was once a public-house;
+we landed to get a drink of buttermilk, and lay in a store of eggs and
+butter. We also climbed to the top of the ruined arch, whence a wide
+prospect is visible, and one may count a goodly number of churches.
+
+Opposite the ruins is a dyke, down which a wherry turned.
+
+“Where does that lead to?” asked Wynne.
+
+“To South Walsham Broad, which is a mile and a half down it; and,
+although wherries can sail down, this boat, which draws about five feet
+six inches, cannot. Still, we can go down in the jolly, or, if you like,
+stay here, and fish for perch. This is a noted spot, because there is a
+hard gravelly bottom, and, by the way, we might have stopped at Thurne
+mouth, which is a good place for pike.”
+
+“I like exploring these dykes, so I vote we go down to the Broad.”
+
+ [Picture: Cottage, South Walsham Broad]
+
+So we started, and overtook the wherry, which had been aground, and she
+gave us a tow down. The Broad, which was formerly one sheet of water,
+has, by the growth of reeds and plants, been divided into two portions.
+There was nothing particular to be seen in the first one; but on rowing
+into the further Broad, we saw a cottage on the right bank, which, with
+its long, low thatch, deep eaves, its honeysuckles and roses, its trees
+and its landing-place, formed a most tempting object for a sketch, and
+one the artist would do well to seek. The Broad is private, save for the
+navigation across one part of it to South Walsham, and the fishing is
+preserved. The old course of the river formerly made a horse-shoe bend
+down towards South Walsham, and the present straight channel by the Abbey
+ruins is an artificial cut. The site of the Abbey is an island of solid
+ground in the midst of a great extent of marsh. When we got back to the
+boat we saw the man fast asleep on the counter, with his rod in the
+river, in tow of a large perch, weighing one pound and a half, which we
+secured.
+
+About a mile further, on the right hand, as we ascend the river, is the
+mouth of the river Ant, leading to Barton Broad and Statham, of which
+more anon.
+
+“The river is getting uncommonly pretty,” said Wynne, “and this slow
+tacking enables me to see it to advantage, eh! How close we steer to the
+fishing boats! and, pray tell me, why do fishermen in Norfolk wear such
+extraordinary hats! Here is another dyke. Can we sail down it?”
+
+“If we only drew four feet of water, we could go on to Ranworth Broad.”
+
+“Then, on my next cruise here, I will get a yacht that does not draw more
+than a wherry does. It is absurd to have such deep draught yachts where
+there are so many shallows. Let us row down.”
+
+Ranworth Broad is a very pretty Broad, but grown up so that it is divided
+into two. The eastern half is navigable to the village of Ranworth, but
+otherwise private, as is the other portion of the Broad. This is very
+strictly preserved, on account of the wild fowl which frequent it. It is
+a favourite fishing place, although permission has first to be obtained
+from the owner, who, however, cannot be expected to give leave
+indiscriminately. It is not worth while seeking to fish in private
+waters in this district, for other fish than pike, seeing that the free
+fishing in the rivers is as good as any one could wish for. From the
+eastern part of the Broad, a very pretty picture, with the church in the
+background, on a wooded height, is visible.
+
+ [Picture: Horning Village]
+
+Then to Horning Ferry, where, as we approached, a horse and cart were
+being ferried across, and we had to lie to for a few minutes, until the
+huge raft was safely across, and the chain lowered. The public-house at
+the ferry is a very comfortable one, with a nice sitting-room and garden
+in front, and is a capital place to make one’s head-quarters. It is
+about nine miles drive from Norwich, and four from Wroxham railway
+station. A little further on is Horning village, a picturesque group of
+houses, straggling along the river bank, with a large windmill on the
+hill behind, making a good picture. Here our ears were greeted with the
+song which, for generations past, the small children of the village have
+chanted to passing yachts—
+
+ “Ho! John Barleycorn: Ho! John Barleycorn,
+ All day long I raise my song
+ To old John Barleycorn.”
+
+That is all. It is simple and effective, and extracts coins from too
+easily pleased holiday-makers.
+
+ [Picture: Ranworth Church]
+
+The river turns to the left, at right angles to its former course, as it
+passes the village, and on the north bank is a reedy sheet of water,
+called Hoveton Little Broad, where there is a small colony of the
+black-headed gulls. On the south side is a small, but pretty Broad,
+called the Decoy Broad. Then the river turns still more sharply to the
+left, and we sailed due south, after having come due north by Horning.
+
+“What a number of anglers there are!” said Wynne, “and the singular thing
+is, that they always seem to be catching fish.—How many have you caught?”
+he called out to two fishermen in a boat.
+
+“About six stone, sir,” was the reply; “but we have been at it since
+daylight, and they bite very slow.”
+
+“I must say I think Norfolk a very favoured county, with all these
+splendid rivers and free fishing; and one place seems as good as
+another.”
+
+“Yes, as long as you pick deepish water, and get under a lee.”
+
+“Do they groundbait the place where they fish?”
+
+“Not before they come, but while fishing they throw in a good deal of
+meal, mixed with water and clay. If they were to groundbait one or two
+suitable places on both sides of the river, so as to be sure of getting a
+lee, for a day or two before they fish, they ought to get even more than
+they do now. Here is a boat-load trailing for jack. Ask how many they
+have caught.”
+
+Wynne did so, and the reply was, “Fifteen, but all small: they run from
+two pounds up to seven.”
+
+“People here either fish for pike with a live bait or trail with a spoon.
+You rarely see anybody spinning by casting, or even using a dead bait on
+a spinning flight. Now, I know that in the hands of one or two people, a
+paternoster has proved very deadly. With three large minnows on your
+tackle, and roving about close to the bank, you may get many pike and
+perch.”
+
+“I’ll try it in the morning before breakfast,” said Wynne.
+
+In another mile the river again turns westward. On the north is a very
+large Broad, called Hoveton Great Broad, whence comes the clangour of a
+large colony of black-headed gulls. The Broad is not navigable for
+anything of greater draught than a small sailing boat; and now all access
+to it has been barred by chains across the dykes, and it is strictly
+preserved, chiefly in consequence, it is said, of the disturbance of the
+gulls by visitors. The gulls flew, screaming, overhead, in a white
+cloud, so that the air seemed filled with them, and the half-grown young
+ones floated on the water, as lightly as thistle-down. Although this
+colony is nothing like so large as the famous one at Scoulton Mere, near
+Hingham, in Norfolk, yet it is extremely interesting, and particularly
+when the eggs are being hatched off, and the little fluffy brown balls,
+which represent the young birds, are running and creeping about the reeds
+and grasses, and swimming in and out of the water-divided tussocks. Air
+and water and grasses seem thrilling with abundant life, and the ear is
+deafened with abundant noise; a noise, however, which, discordant as it
+is, has for a naturalist the music of the nightingale. The water is very
+shallow at the east end, where the gulls are, but the soft mud is of an
+exceeding great depth.
+
+Some years ago the American weed, _Anacharis alsinastrum_, that pest of
+our inland waters, so completely filled this Broad, that a duck could
+walk upon the surface. It then suddenly decayed, at the same time
+poisoning the fish so that they died by thousands. Since this time the
+Broad has been comparatively free from it.
+
+During Wynne’s visit the Broad was still open, and we visited it in the
+jolly. After rowing about for some time, we turned to go back to the
+yacht, and Wynne said, “I don’t see the sails of the yacht anywhere.
+Where can she have disappeared to? I know that the river is over there,
+because there is the sail of a wherry over the reeds, but there is no
+channel through the reeds, and it is no use your rowing that way. You
+have lost your way, my boy.”
+
+We only laughed at him and rowed on.
+
+“I tell you that there is no way into the river here. Oh, yes, there is;
+I beg your pardon, but I should have rowed about until doomsday before I
+found the way off.”
+
+“And you couldn’t have landed, for I don’t think there is a bit of solid
+ground all round the Broad. But where is the yacht?” For there was no
+sign of her.
+
+The wide opening on the opposite side of the river suggested that perhaps
+the man had taken her on to Salhouse Broad. So we rowed on, disturbing a
+kingfisher, which was perched on a bullrush, and there was a picture.
+Wynne cried, “OH!” with delight, and, although I have seen the like so
+many times, the scene is always fresh in its beauty. On the placid bosom
+of the small lake the yacht lay motionless, while a pair of swans, with
+their brood of cygnets, swam near her. Outside the ever-present boundary
+of green reeds, was a darker circle of trees, and crowds of yellow lilies
+made a bright bit of colour in the foreground. On the further shore was
+a thatched boat-house, and behind it a wooded bank. The thud of the
+jolly against the yacht’s side aroused a wild duck; a shoal of rudd broke
+the still surface, as they sprang from a pursuing pike, and the
+red-and-white cows, which had pushed through the reeds to drink, stood
+looking at us contemplatively.
+
+We dropped the anchor, and got tea ready, and Wynne worked hard at a
+water-colour sketch, brush in one hand, bread and butter in the other,
+palate, plate, and sketch-block mixed up, and the brush going as often
+into his teacup as into the mug of water.
+
+After tea, we landed, and walked into the long and straggling village of
+Salhouse, in search of bread and fresh meat, and on our return, climbed
+to the top of the bank, whence a fair prospect met our eyes. At our feet
+were Salhouse Broad, and the smaller Broad next to it, which I call
+Salhouse Little Broad, a lakelet covered with water lilies; outside
+these, the sinuous river, doubling upon itself, as though loth to leave
+so pleasant a land; Hoveton Broad to the right, and Wroxham Broad to the
+left; many white sails flitting about on the latter, and more yachts
+coming slowly up the river.
+
+There is a navigation across Salhouse Broad to Salhouse Staithe, but the
+present owner of the Broad discourages sailing upon it, and the reader is
+advised not to anchor or moor there. The old times when one could come
+and go upon the Broads as a matter of apparent right are now past.
+
+We went to Girling’s farm, close by, to get milk, and eggs, and butter,
+and I may mention that Mr. Girling has comfortable rooms to let, suitable
+for a family, whilst the situation is unsurpassed for prettiness.
+
+We quanted off the Broad, and found just sufficient air moving on the
+river to take us gently on. We had a little surprise in store for Wynne.
+As we came up to Wroxham Broad, I asked him to reach me something out of
+the cabin. When he was safe inside, I put the helm up, and we slipped
+through the ‘gatway’ into the Broad. When Wynne came out of the cabin,
+instead of the river banks, he saw the wide-stretching Broad, the Queen
+of the Broads, for her beauty, size, and depth of water combined.
+
+“This is lovely. I had no idea that we had left the river. What a
+string of fishing boats! Are they having a match?”
+
+“Yes. Angling matches are very favourite amusements here, and the prizes
+are sometimes valuable, and sometimes very miscellaneous in their nature.
+They are very sociable, well-conducted gatherings, and I think the
+Norfolk anglers would meet with old Izaak’s approbation, as being honest
+and peaceable men.”
+
+“They all look very happy. But, tell me, are there always so many yachts
+here as there are to-day?”
+
+“Not quite. The fact is, there is a regatta of the Norfolk and Suffolk
+Yacht Club here to-morrow, and it is always a genuine water frolic. This
+is a favourite place at all times; Wroxham is only seven miles by rail
+from Norwich, and the Broad is only a mile and a half from Wroxham by
+water.”
+
+We drifted across to the other side of the Broad, and there dropped our
+anchor, and made all snug.
+
+ [Picture: Horning Ferry]
+
+It was a lovely evening, and yacht after yacht came upon the Broad, and
+anchored; anchoring, by the way, meaning, in the majority of cases,
+dropping some pigs of ballast overboard, at the end of a rope, for the
+mud is so soft that an ordinary anchor would drag through it. We visited
+our friends on various yachts, and then the moon shone so brightly out of
+a cloudless sky, that, late as it was, we did not turn in for a long
+time, but floated about in the boat, and yarned about old times, until it
+was very late indeed.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+WROXHAM BROAD.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] I had scarcely closed my eyes, it
+seemed to me, ere I was awakened by Wynne moving about.
+
+“What are you up to?” I cried.
+
+“I am going to paternoster for perch, and I’ll take the casting-net to
+get some small fry.”
+
+“Oh, dear! why can’t you wait until the morning?”
+
+“It is morning. It is four o’clock and broad daylight.”
+
+“Then go, and don’t come back until breakfast time.” And I drew the
+curtains over the windows, and tried to think it was quite dark, and to
+get to sleep again.
+
+On awaking I heard the sound of a piano. My first thought was, “Where am
+I?” I found that I was on the boat, sure enough, and it was seven
+o’clock. There was no more sleep for me, for a wherry, fitted up as a
+yacht, was lying near, and her crew had not only got a piano on board,
+but played upon it at seven o’clock in the morning. It is an excellent
+plan to rig up a wherry in this way for a cruise, as good accommodation
+for a large party is secured, and the interior can be well divided into
+several sleeping-rooms. The presence of ladies aboard the wherry, and up
+so early, was rather a nuisance, as one had to row away for one’s dip.
+Up to eight o’clock, the Broad is generally sacred to the men, who can
+take their plunge overboard with safety.
+
+Presently Wynne came back.
+
+“Well, what have you caught?”
+
+“Two jack, about five pounds each, and three perch, about a pound each.
+If I could have got some minnows I should have done better, but the roach
+I got were too large for paternostering, and not lively enough. I got
+into a row, too. I found a bow net set among the weeds, and there were
+three large tench in it. As I took it up to look at it, its owner
+appeared, and slanged me considerably at first; but when he cooled down,
+he got talkative, and told me that the reaches of the river by Salhouse
+and Hoveton Broads are the best for pike, but that all the way down to
+Horning Ferry is good. By the way, I saw a lot of boats fishing on the
+Broad when I set out, and they went on to the river when they saw me.
+The Broad is not preserved, is it?”
+
+“No; but one of the owners, Mr. Chamberlin, levies a tax of 2s. 6d. on
+fishermen, and as it goes to the Norfolk and Norwich Hospital, one ought
+to pay it willingly. Poor men can’t pay it, so they fish on the Broad in
+the early morning, and then leave for the river. They walk here from
+Norwich, overnight, and begin to fish before daylight, and as they can
+get a boat at Wroxham for a shilling a day, it is not an expensive
+pastime for them.”
+
+“I saw some notice boards at Salhouse, but there was so much on them, and
+the letters were so small, that I could not read them, but I suppose they
+were meant to warn people off.”
+
+“Yes, there is unfortunately too great a disposition amongst owners to
+try and close the Broads against the fishing public, and even to
+interfere with the old navigation rights, but there are praiseworthy
+exceptions, and here comes one, the owner of this end of Wroxham Broad.”
+{70}
+
+As the sun rose higher, so it grew hotter in too great a ratio, and the
+breeze was too light to afford much excitement in the way of racing.
+Still, it was a wonderfully pretty sight, such as could be seen on no
+other English inland water, save Windermere: the yachts, too, are very
+much like the Windermere yachts, but carry even more canvas than the
+latter do. The following are the dimensions of a 10-tonner of that time:
+length on keel, 25 feet; over all, 34 feet; beam, 10 feet. Ordinary
+canvas would be, mainsail luff, 23 feet; head, 28 feet 6 inches; foot, 35
+feet, and leech, 42 feet; jib, leech, 23 feet; foot, 36 feet; and luff,
+48 feet, with a topsail yard of 23 feet. For racing, these dimensions
+are largely increased. For fast sailing and quick turning to windward,
+these boats are justly celebrated, but the Broads are so rapidly growing
+shallower, that their draught, about five feet, closes many of the Broads
+to them. A much more sensible type of a large boat for pure comfort in
+cruising (though not for sport in sailing) is one founded on the wherry
+plan, with a large mainsail, and drawing not more than three feet of
+water. For such boats under 10 tons, the “Una” type is the best. Its
+shallow draught would enable it, with the centre-board up, to go
+anywhere, and penetrate into the most charming recesses of this wild
+country, which the deeper yacht can never see. Its beam gives safety,
+and also minimises the inconvenience of the centre-board case in the
+cabin, and a high booby hatch would give head-room. The one sail is very
+handy, and if her owner has but ordinary skill and energy, he could sail
+her alone, and so dispense with the expense of keeping a man. Without
+this expense, yachting in these waters is a reasonable and very cheap
+amusement. These remarks are for the benefit of the great number of
+people who have written to me at one time or another, to know what
+facilities for economical boat-sailing and living exist in these waters.
+For fast sailing and ease of handling by a _skilled_ person, the present
+improved type of sloop or cutter cannot be surpassed on any waters.
+
+Well, 10-tonners and 4-tonners, open cutter-rigged sailing-boats of a
+very fast type, canoes with battened sails, luggers and boats, and
+wherries sailed to and fro, and steam launches puffed noisily about, and
+marred the beauty of the scene, as well as upset the glasses and dishes
+of breakfast or luncheon by the swell which they caused. The people paid
+very little attention to the racing, but set themselves heartily to enjoy
+this great water picnic.
+
+Wynne went ashore, and discovered some pretty woodland vistas, with
+glimpses of the Broad, and the glancing sails between leafy boughs of
+oaks, and under lofty arms of Scotch firs. Also, he discovered that at
+the farm at the lower end of the Broad, Mrs. Newman’s, there were rooms
+to let, and that an artist friend of his had taken them, so there he
+stayed for a long time, and kept the jolly, in spite of vigorous hails
+for it.
+
+Of the adventurous journeys of yachts up to divers Wroxham Regattas, of
+the exploits of elated yachtsmen, and the mishaps of careless ones, of
+the fun and merriment attendant on these annual gatherings, the writer
+has written in another place. At present, we must hurry on.
+
+In the evening we sailed, or rather quanted, up to the Bridge. These
+reaches of the river were lovely in the extreme. The clear and brimming
+river reflected the marginal flowers and groups of trees, while acres of
+marsh shone with the yellow iris flowers. But, alas! the woods and the
+sloping fields kept off the wind, and made one wish that the _upper_
+entrance to the Broad were widened and made navigable.
+
+We came to the Bridge at last, and moored to the bank, watching the
+homeward-bound holiday makers arrive in yachts, and boats, and wherries;
+a goodly number of the latter having numerous passengers.
+
+ [Picture: Belaugh Church]
+
+Wroxham has two decent inns, where good boats and bait may be
+obtained—Jimpson’s (the “King’s Head”), and Whittaker’s, the former the
+largest, but both comfortable.
+
+ [Picture: Chapter Header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+WROXHAM TO COLTISHALL.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] The bridge at Wroxham is very narrow
+and low. The mast, of course, had to be lowered, and the yacht quanted
+under the road and railway bridges. A wherry passing under raised her
+mast too soon, and damaged the ornamental vane, which consisted of the
+inevitable figure of a Welsh girl with a high hat and holding a bunch of
+leeks.
+
+“There, I must have a new Welsh girl,” said the wherryman.
+
+“Why is such an emblem chosen in Norfolk, of all places?” asked Wynne.
+
+“Some thirty years ago there was a wherry named after the famous Jenny
+Morgan of the song, and she had such a vane. It took the fancy of the
+wherrymen to such an extent that they all adopted it in the course of
+time.”
+
+The river here is very narrow, and Wynne, who was steering, put the yacht
+“on the putty” twice, before he could be induced to give up the helm to
+the man, who professed to know the exact depth of every part of the
+river. The river makes a very long loop to the south, just above
+Wroxham. In this loop is Belaugh Broad, said to hold some very large
+carp, but it is preserved. On the neck of the loop, on a high bank,
+stands Belaugh Church, a prominent object for some miles, as you follow
+the river. It is very picturesquely situated, and the view from it is
+characteristic. Close by the church is a draw-well, with a pent-house
+over it, well worth sketching. There is a pretty backwater, or old
+channel of the river, near here, called “Little Switzerland,” which is
+worth rowing up, but unfortunately the owner objects even to artists
+visiting it, and hence it must be considered as sacred ground.
+
+It came on to blow very hard, as we finished the three-mile loop of
+river, half a mile from where we entered it, and as the wind was fair,
+the corners sharp, and the river narrow, we lowered the mainsail, and ran
+up under the jib alone, to Coltishall, where we at once made a rush for
+the butcher’s, just in time to secure a piece of meat for our dinner
+to-morrow, which, being Sunday, we intended to spend at Coltishall. The
+village is superior to most Norfolk villages, and contains some old
+houses with rounded gables, and a fine church.
+
+ [Picture: Dyke Near Coltishall]
+
+The great business of the place is malting, and many men labour as
+maltsters in winter and boat-builders in summer, so that summer is the
+time to get a boat built at Coltishall, when either Allen or Collins will
+build you one at a reasonable rate.
+
+The fishing is very good in this portion of the river, and there are
+great numbers of jack here, although they run rather small. In the
+spawning season, the bream head up here in large numbers, and as there is
+no close season in Norfolk, many anglers follow them up.
+
+The first lock on this river is just above the village, and on the
+bye-stream stands Horstead mill, a very fine specimen of the Norfolk
+water-mill. It stands upon arches, and the stream runs under it, the
+wheels, of course, being undershot. It makes a very effective picture,
+seen from below, and, in fact, if you row your jolly up the left-hand
+stream, as you go up, you will see very many lovely bits worth the
+painter’s attention. I have photographed some of them, as I can’t
+sketch, but photographs cannot depict the colour. It is in the soft
+living light of these Norfolk scenes that their chief beauty lies, but
+they cannot be depicted without the aid of colour, and only imperfectly
+then.
+
+The river is navigable for wherries and yachts drawing but little water,
+right up to Aylsham, some eleven miles further; but there are two more
+locks before reaching Aylsham.
+
+ [Picture: Ludham Bridge]
+
+Coltishall is accessible by rail from Norwich, being the next station to
+Wroxham, and lodgings are obtainable there. The jack fishing is very
+good all the way.
+
+ [Picture: River Bure—Hautbois]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] Wynne had undertaken the office of
+steward, and so far we had fared sumptuously, but as we were tidying up
+on Monday morning, the fact became apparent that the provision lockers
+were nearly empty.
+
+“The fact is,” he said, “I thought there would be a better chance of
+buying things, as we went along, than there appears to be, for with the
+exception of butter and eggs, we might as well be on the prairies. What
+shall we do?”
+
+Now, provisioning is a very perplexing thing, particularly when it is for
+several days, and as I knew that at Norwich made-up hampers of provisions
+for fishing-parties could be obtained, we telegraphed for one to be sent
+to us at Wroxham station, and departed in hope, with a light but fair
+wind. We trailed a pike-bait behind, and caught several jack, and two or
+three good perch. We were three hours getting to Wroxham, and while the
+mast was being lowered, Wynne went to the station to meet a train then
+coming in. He returned in glee with a hamper of good things, and our
+difficulty was at end. Once we spent a Sunday at Wroxham, with nothing
+procurable to eat but biscuits, and once, at Barton, we were obliged to
+fish for our meals. Meat so soon goes bad on board a boat, and one does
+not always care for tinned things. A good wrinkle is to have a bottle
+containing a strong solution of permanganate of potash on board, and then
+a few drops placed in a pint of water will make a most efficient
+deodorising liquid, with which you may safely sprinkle the meat, and wash
+out the lockers.
+
+As the day advanced, the breeze got up, and by two o’clock we were at the
+mouth of the river Ant, ten miles from Wroxham.
+
+As we turned up its narrow and shallow waters, our man said,
+
+“We shan’t get very far up this river, sir, with a craft drawing so much
+water as this.”
+
+“No, but we can get to Ludham Bridge, and there I have arranged for an
+old lateener to be waiting for us.”
+
+[Picture: Woodland Pool—Irstead] We touched the ground several times
+before we got to the bridge, about a mile up, thus showing that a very
+fine Broad is practically closed to the possessor of a large yacht of the
+usual type. We left the yacht below the bridge in charge of the man, and
+Wynne and I transferred ourselves on board a six-ton lateener, very broad
+and very shallow, with bluff bows; a boat sixty years old, if a day, only
+drawing about two feet of water. She had an enormous lateen foresail,
+and a mizen, and she subsequently formed a picturesque object in Wynne’s
+sketches. A wherry was coming through the low and narrow bridge, and, as
+the water was high, she had some difficulty in doing it.
+
+The wind was fair for a large portion of the way, and we bowled along
+very fast. Where it was ahead, owing to a bend in the river, there was
+no room to tack, and one of us would jump ashore with a line, and tow.
+The Ant is just like a canal, except that it has no tow-path. The
+fishing in it is remarkably good, particularly at Irstead shoals, where
+there is a stretch of water about half a mile long, with an even depth of
+four to five feet, and a firm, level, pebbly bottom, a curiosity in this
+land of boggy streams. This is an excellent spot for perch and pike. It
+is marked by the presence of a church on the western bank, and is one of
+the few places on these waters where a person who cannot swim can bathe
+with safety or comfort. The muddy bottom, of course, prohibits wading.
+As you approach the entrance to Barton Broad, the bottom becomes muddy
+again, and the Broad itself is full of mud; there being large “hills”
+where the water is not more than two feet deep. The navigable channels
+wind between these hills, and are marked out by posts. The Broad is a
+mile long, and very pretty, and the entrance to it is four and a half
+miles from the mouth of the Ant. In our light-draught lateener, we
+ignored the channels, and sped about all over, often, however, finding
+our speed diminished, as the keel cut through the soft mud, and turned up
+yellow volumes of mud behind. It is a curious fact that in some Broads
+and portions of Broads, the mud is of a light yellow colour, and in other
+portions black. As all this mud is the result of decayed vegetation,
+this difference is singular.
+
+There is an artificial island in the Broad, where a picnic party were
+then enjoying themselves. We sailed away into the long bight which leads
+towards Neatishead, where the bowery woods, fringing the water, spoke of
+welcome shade, but we were brought to a stop by the mud, and had some
+difficulty in getting back. On this very lovely Broad, we found we had
+much better stick to the channels, which were wide enough, and explore
+the shallows in the jolly. The fishing here is remarkably good. I do
+not think any objection is made to angling for coarse fish, but
+permission must be obtained for pike fishing. The Broad, though the
+water is fresh, is affected by the rise and fall of the tide. Going on
+one night in the dark, I missed the channel, and ran so hard on to a
+“hill,” that in the morning when the tide was at its height, we had to
+lay the yacht on her side by means of lines and tackles to the nearest
+channel posts ere we could float her off. The Broad is easy of access,
+by going to Stalham railway station, and hiring boats at Stalham, whence
+a row of about two miles will bring you on to the Broad.
+
+ [Picture: Entrance—Barton Broad]
+
+At the north end of the Broad, a wide dyke leads northwards. This
+divides into two about a mile from the Broad; the left-hand one leads to
+Dilham and North Walsham, becoming a canal, with locks and water-mills.
+We took the right-hand one, and on coming to another sub-division, took
+the left-hand one, the right leading to a grown-up piece of water, known
+as Sutton Broad. The course we chose led us over Stalham Broad, which,
+though marked on maps as a piece of open water, now only consists of a
+tract of marsh, with a dyke kept open through it. Stalham is at the end
+of this dyke. Here there are two good inns, the “Swan,” and the “Maid’s
+Head,” and there are plenty of good boats for hire at the waterside.
+Stalham has a station on the Yarmouth and North Norfolk Railway, and as a
+fishing station is considered very good.
+
+We caught a pike in the dyke, at luncheon time (ours as well as his), and
+a big fellow of about fourteen pounds in weight was said to haunt the
+spot. We saw a large fish strike at some roach, but he would not look at
+our spinning-bait. Within sight of the dyke end is a tumble-down house,
+with a thatched roof, broken-backed, and altogether so jumbled and
+ancient-looking, that it makes a capital subject for a sketch.
+
+In the afternoon we sailed quietly back to the cutter, and took both
+boats back to the Bure, and down it to St. Benet’s Abbey, which we
+reached by moonlight.
+
+[Picture: Carp] Wynne had taken a great fancy to the lateener, which had
+been lent to me by a friend, and as we wished to explore the Broads about
+Hickling, all too shallow for the cutter, we decided to take both yachts
+up the Thurne to Heigham Bridges, and leave the cutter there, while we
+took the lateener up on the wide, wild waters above the bridge. The next
+morning we devoted to pike fishing, at the mouth of the Thurne, getting
+our bait with a casting-net. We got up very early, and were moored in a
+convenient spot, and all rigged up ready to start before the mist had
+risen off the water. I do not intend to go into the details of our
+sport, which was not out of the way, but by one o’clock we got six pike,
+from four to ten pounds in weight, and put back four under-sized fish.
+This was with live bait, without moving more than one hundred yards from
+the same spot.
+
+ [Picture: Carrying reeds, Barton]
+
+ [Picture: Barton Staithe]
+
+ [Picture: Stalham Dyke]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+WOMACK BROAD.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] Being tired of fishing, we had a swim,
+and then dinner; and, late in the afternoon, we hoisted sail, to a stiff
+breeze, Wynne and the man in the cutter, and I in the lateener. They ran
+away from me so quickly, however, that I could not stop them at the
+entrance to Womack {91} Broad, as I had intended, and was obliged to go
+in chase of them up to Heigham Bridges. The round, bluff bows of my old
+lateener, designed to support the heavy mast, which raked forward over
+them, made such a hollow in the water, and raised such a big wave, that
+sailing very fast was impossible. As it was, the nose of the boat sank
+so that it seemed as if she must run under, a fate not uncommon with
+lateeners, when running before a stiff breeze. It was this peculiarity
+of theirs, combined with the large foreyard, more than twice the length
+of the boat which caused the rig to fall into disuse. For turning to
+windward, however, they are uncommonly handy, and easily managed
+single-handed. The Thurne is a fairly wide stream, with deep water, so
+that you can tack close up to the banks. It is four miles from the mouth
+of the Thurne to Heigham Bridges, and the cutter was there ten minutes
+before me.
+
+ [Picture: Drainage Mill—River Thurne]
+
+“I say, Wynne, I wanted you to stop at that dyke, half way up, but I
+could not make you hear me. There is a charming little Broad there,
+called Womack Broad, and a picture ready composed, so bring your
+paint-box, and we will beat back in the lateen.”
+
+We reached the dyke in half an hour, tacking in that narrow channel with
+great celerity.
+
+ [Picture: The River Thurne]
+
+“This boat turns more quickly than the cutter, I think; at all events,
+there is less trouble in managing her,” said Wynne. “Do you know that I
+think a fine-bowed lugger, with main and mizen rig, would be a handy boat
+for these waters.”
+
+“Some of the old lateeners have been turned into luggers, and sail very
+well. Here is the dyke, nearly a mile long, and fringed with ferns and
+flowers, reeds and bulrushes, iris and forget-me-nots.”
+
+“Here comes a wherry. What shall we do? There is no room to pass.”
+
+“We must go to windward of her, or her sail will take the mast out of us.
+Here is a place made wide to admit of wherries passing, and we can hold
+on here until she gets by. There, that was a tight fit.”
+
+The boat sailor must be very careful to keep to windward of the wherries
+in narrow waters, as their huge gaffs and sails take up a great deal of
+room, and if they catch your mast, they may carry it away, or capsize
+you. It is still more important not to get across the bows of a wherry,
+as she would get the best of the encounter, and a small yacht very much
+the worst of it. It is not often that accidents happen through any
+collision, but occasionally the crew of a row-boat get bewildered and row
+across the bows of a wherry, sailing fast, and a day of pleasure is
+turned into mourning. A special Providence seems to watch over amateur
+boat-sailors, and it is marvellous to see how they come unharmed out of
+predicaments which seem most serious. The wherries are sailed remarkably
+well, and you can generally rely on their carefulness, so that you may
+sail your yacht rigidly according to the rule of the road. One thing
+should be remembered, the wherry’s sailing is a matter of business, and
+the yachtsman’s is a matter of pleasure only; therefore, it is well to
+give way to a wherry, if there is any doubt on the point, and not hamper
+her unnecessarily.
+
+The dyke we were then sailing down is about a mile long, leading westward
+to Womack Broad, which was once a nice sheet of water, but is very
+rapidly growing up, each year seeing an accretion to the growth of spongy
+marsh, and an additional layer of mud on the bottom. At present, the
+channel is navigable for wherries, which ply to Ludham village, at the
+further end of it.
+
+On the right-hand side, as we entered the Broad, is a bit of an old-world
+picture: a boat-builder’s shed, large and old, and of picturesque
+construction, stands on the margin, amid low bushes and under the shade
+of mighty trees. Beneath it is a large boat, of an age and type unknown,
+and a wherry sleepily awaiting repair. Behind the boat-house is a barn,
+whose high-thatched roof is shaded by the branches of a cherry tree. By
+the side of the boat-shed is a dyke, where sundry small craft are
+ensconced. Behind all, and peeping out of a garden run wild, are low,
+thatched cottages, and scattered about, among the tall grasses, are
+trunks of trees, curved “knees” of oak, suitable for boat-building, and
+broken-up boats and punts. On the still water in front is moored a
+floating eel-fisher’s hut, and all around is the sense of the repose of
+the past. The former busy life has left its emblems resting in
+acquiescence with the fate which contracts the sphere of their
+usefulness, day by day, and year by year, as the vegetation slowly, but
+surely, drives out the water. That dense growth of reeds lies upon a
+skim of soil which would not bear the weight of a dog, and now undulates
+with the movement of the water, but in three years’ time it may bear the
+weight of a man.
+
+[Picture: Gudgeon] An old man who lives near there, grumbles because the
+artists come and paint his cottage and broad, and take away pounds’ worth
+of sketches, and never think of sending him a picture in acknowledgment.
+
+It was a lotos lake to us that afternoon. Wynne painted, and I fished,
+and we sailed back to Heigham Bridges by moonlight.
+
+Womack Broad is not shown upon some maps and charts, but those who are
+susceptible to a lovely scene should not pass it by.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+HICKLING BROAD.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] Heigham Bridge is a small stone one,
+with not much room to get through, and a little above it is the railway
+bridge, over which the Eastern and Midlands Railway runs, with a station
+not far off—Potter Heigham. Near the station is the “Falgate” Inn, where
+there is comfortable accommodation. A gate hangs over the inn by way of
+a sign, and on its bars is inscribed the following—
+
+ “This gate hang high
+ But hinder none,
+ Refresh and pay
+ And travel on,”
+
+The omission of the _s_ in the third person singular of the verb is truly
+Norfolk, and common even among the middle classes. At the bridge is the
+“Waterman’s Arms,” where one or two bedrooms, and a small parlour, all
+scrupulously clean, are obtainable. Just by the bridge, in a sort of
+wooden “Peggoty’s Hut,” lives Applegate, who has good boats, sailing and
+rowing, for hire, stowed away in a remarkably neat boat-house. The
+fishing all round is as good as it can be, and I never fail to get a jack
+near the bridge, while, within four miles lie Hickling and Somerton
+Broads, Heigham Sounds, and Horsey Mere. For myself, I should prefer
+this as a fishing and boating station, to any other, because of the
+wildness of the district.
+
+ [Picture: Hickling Broad]
+
+The tide ebbs and flows strongly; and I caught Wynne standing on the
+bridge, and looking in a perplexed way at the rate the perfectly fresh
+water of the river was running up stream. The exit of these waters—at
+Yarmouth—was twenty miles away, by water; Heigham Bridge is only between
+four and five miles from the sea, in a direct line, and the water was now
+running eastward, towards the sea, and the lakes, which daily rise and
+fall, though only a few inches, actuated by the salt tide, “so near, and
+yet so far.”
+
+“Verily, this is a strange country,” said Wynne, “and not, I should
+think, beyond the possibility of a sudden visit from the sea.”
+
+“No, those light-coloured mounds in the distance are the sea-banks, of
+sand, only held together by scanty marram grasses. We will pay them a
+closer visit.”
+
+We got the lateener through the bridges, taking sufficient things for a
+night’s absence, and sailed away up the Thurne, which seems now to lose
+its name as a river, and take that of the “Hundred Stream.” About half a
+mile above the railway bridge is the mouth of Kendal, or Candler’s, Dyke,
+a narrow winding stream, up which we turned, soon to find ourselves
+bordered by tall reeds on either hand, and then sailing through a
+wilderness of water and reeds so tall that they bounded our view. This
+is Heigham Sounds, now greatly overgrown, and a capital place for wild
+fowl; also for rudd, which here attain a very large size, and go in
+immense shoals. Out of the channel the water is extremely shallow. In
+the channel, particularly in Kendal Dyke, I have caught a good number of
+pike.
+
+The fishing on all these Broads—Hickling, Horsey, and the Sounds—is
+nominally preserved, but fair anglers do not seem to be interfered with.
+At all events, in the channel and the dykes one may pretty well do as one
+likes, and no attempt has ever been made to set up an exclusive right to
+the rivers. I note that a Fishery Preservation Society has been formed
+to abolish illegal netting, and to overlook this district, and under the
+auspices of this it is probable that riparian owners will not object to
+anglers taking a share of the superabundant fish out of the Broads. I
+call the fish superabundant advisedly, and will adhere to the term until
+anglers can assure me that they know what to do (usefully) with the
+number of fish they catch, and cease from throwing them away on the bank,
+after ascertaining their weight and number.
+
+ [Picture: Dyke at Potter Heigham]
+
+Well, we sailed as close to the wind as we could—and nothing goes closer
+than a lateener—and could just lie the channel through another reedy
+lake, called Whiteslea, on to the vast expanse of Hickling Broad, a lake
+400 acres in extent, and looking three times as large, owing to the
+extreme lowness of its shores, the absence of any landmarks, and the
+great concave sky, which seems to fit close down all around it. A
+channel across it is marked by posts, which we left to starboard, as we
+sailed over it. The width of the channel you will have to determine by
+experiment, as there is no guide. At a guess, it is twenty yards wide,
+and all the rest of the Broad is so shallow that you might wade over it,
+and find a hard, yellow, gravel bottom almost everywhere. Trusting in
+our two-feet draught, we sailed hither and thither, and felt our way
+checked, as the keel cut through masses of weed, and then the bound
+forward, as the boat entered a part clear of weeds. These bunches of
+weed have lately increased greatly in Hickling Broad, which used to be
+comparatively free from them, and the promontories of reeds are pushing
+themselves further and further into the lake, and the bays between are
+getting shallower. Still, the lake is large enough, as yet, to be able
+to stand a little filching from.
+
+We sailed down to Catfield staithe, on the western side of the Broad, and
+not far from Catfield railway station, on the line already alluded to.
+Then we went to Hickling staithe, at the north end, where there is an
+inn, the “Pleasure Boat,” and walked into the village to post letters,
+and to receive some.
+
+Boats of a rough kind can be obtained here for fishing purposes. They
+are long, narrow, and flat-bottomed, and the usual method of propulsion
+is by “_setting_.” The setter sits in the extreme stern, and pushes the
+boat along with a light pole, at a great rate. There are often setting
+races at local regattas, and great fun they are.
+
+ [Picture: Hickling Staithe]
+
+The number of broken-up lateeners on the shores of the Broad attest the
+decay of large pleasure-boat sailing on these remote waters, but the
+smaller class of centre-board boats are coming into favour, and are,
+perhaps, more suitable.
+
+After lunch we had to reef the great foresail, which was not an easy
+operation, as the reef was taken in along the yard, and we had to go into
+the jolly boat to get to the end of it. The jolly boat committed a joke
+its species is very fond of, under similar circumstances; that is, it
+slipped away from under one of us, and left him clinging to the yard,
+with his legs in the water.
+
+ [Picture: Martham Broad]
+
+I shall never forget three days I spent, on Whiteslea and Heigham Sound,
+for the fishing and fowling, one December with a friend. I stayed in the
+little cottage on the small island in Whiteslea. We had two boats and
+two men to attend to us during the day, but at night we were left to
+ourselves in the lonely house, where the water oozed through the floor,
+and the beds were so damp that I slept completely clothed in my oilies.
+There was a bitter north-easter sweeping over the dry reeds under a
+leaden sky, and the sport was of the slowest. I never felt the cold so
+much, accustomed though I am to winter pike-fishing.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] It was exhilarating work sailing over
+Hickling Broad, and we were very loth to leave its wind-swept waters. We
+had a rare run back along the channel, and over Whiteslea, and then
+turned sharp to the left, up the Old Meadow dyke leading to Horsey Mere.
+This dyke is a mile long, and of fair depth, but so narrow that people
+fishing on the banks had to hold up their rods as we passed, while our
+sail swept the tops of the reeds. Then we shot into Horsey Mere, a lake
+of 130 acres in extent, with a small island in the middle. It was very
+clear, and very shallow, the channel for wherries lying along the west
+side of it, into Palling dyke, which leads north-westward for several
+miles until it reaches almost to the sea.
+
+The white sand-hills on the coast were plainly visible, and the thunder
+of the surf was audible, as the sea was but a mile and a half away. We
+did what nearly every one else does who visits Horsey in a yacht; landed
+at the east end of it, and walked to the coast, but it was too rough to
+bathe. These sand-hills form a very curious barrier between the salt and
+fresh water. They are steep and high, and make one wonder by what force
+of wind and waves they attained their present shape and dimensions, in so
+flat a country, and why the like forces do not dissipate them over the
+plain. Breaches have been made in them by the sea, from time to time,
+notably in the winter of 1791, when a very high tide made several gaps,
+and threatened to overwhelm the marshes inland.
+
+“I like this Mere as well as any of the Broads,” said Wynne, when we
+returned to the yacht. “It is so very still and lonely, and its quiet is
+in such contrast to the roar and unrest of the sea close by. Is the
+fishing free here?”
+
+“No, it is supposed to be preserved, though I don’t suppose anyone will
+object to our catching a pike for supper, if you wish. There are no pike
+like those in Horsey, the proverb says.”
+
+But the wind had fallen as suddenly as it arose, and the glamour of a
+fiery sunset shone over the silent mere. An occasional cry of coot, or
+duck, or splash of fish, and the distant sound of the sea, but emphasized
+the stillness around us. We sat on the cabin roof, and talked lazily, as
+the dusk came slowly on, and our voices were low, in unison with the
+evening hush.
+
+“I do not wonder,” said Wynne, “that you are so fond of these waters. An
+evening like this, in such watery solitude, makes a strong impression
+upon one.”
+
+Horsey Mere is only accessible by water. There is a railway
+station—Martham—about four miles off, but if you walked from there you
+could get no sight of the Broad without a boat, and boats are not
+procurable.
+
+“What are these cushions stuffed with?” asked Wynne, as we lay down for
+the night.
+
+“Horse-hair, I expect; but then age has made them hard and crabbed.”
+
+“Well, I think that the sleeping accommodation might be vastly improved
+in your Norfolk boats generally. Canvas cots or hammocks, air beds and
+pillows, would all be better than the thin cushions there are in the
+cutter. I sha’n’t sleep to-night, for I have pins and needles all over
+me already.”
+
+And in five minutes he was snoring! One could sleep on a deal plank, or
+even on an oak one, after a few days and nights on the Broads.
+
+We woke very early in the morning, and found that a brisk breeze had
+sprung up, and that the lateener had dragged her moorings and drifted
+into the reeds. She had taken no harm, for, short of being run down by a
+wherry, there are no dangers of shipwreck on the Broads, and you might
+drift about unmoored, for all the hurt there is likely to accrue.
+
+ [Picture: Sound Asleep]
+
+After a hurried breakfast we hoisted the foresail, and tore down the dyke
+into Heigham Sounds, across which we sped fast, throwing the shallow
+water into waves, which shook the reeds mightily. When we emerged from
+Kendal dyke into the main stream, we turned to the left, and in less than
+a mile reached Martham Ferry, which was stretched across the river while
+some wagons were passing across. This ferry is a large raft, which is
+kept in a recess on either side of the river, and floated across,
+reaching from bank to bank when required. There is no one to tend it,
+and if it happens to be on the other side, a wayfarer must wait until
+some one appears on the other side to get it across. It is a wonderfully
+clumsy thing to look at, and is not regarded with friendly eyes by the
+wherrymen, who run their wherries full tilt against it too often at
+night, or when, with the wind astern, they are unable to stop. One
+wherryman, exasperated beyond endurance, let his wherry go at it with all
+her force when running before half a gale, but only smashed the bows of
+his vessel, not moving the ferry a bit or injuring it, for it is heavily
+bound with iron to withstand such experiments.
+
+We sailed to and fro until the wagons had passed, but a wherry coming up
+had to lower her sail in a hurry, and then struck the raft with great
+force before it could be drawn away. This jammed it diagonally across
+the river, and it was half an hour before it could be moved.
+
+At the other side of the ferry, and at the mouth of a dyke, is a capital
+place for pike and large eels, and I can conceive of no better-looking
+pike place than the mile of stream between here and Somerton or Martham
+Broad. The water is deep and clear, with a stratum of lily leaves, about
+four feet below the surface, and here and there lilies on the surface.
+As we sailed over its glassy surface, not ruffled by the crossing wind,
+on account of the high reeds and grasses, we could see thousands of fish
+of all sizes darting away beneath us; and at the end of the main dyke,
+where it divides into two, is a deep, clear pool, with a hard, gravelly
+bottom, where there are any quantity of perch and large roach. It is the
+beau-ideal of a spot for bottom-fishing, but “fine and far off” must you
+fish, for the water, though deep, is passing clear. It is easily
+accessible from Martham railway station, and preferably from Potter
+Heigham, where, too, you could procure a boat.
+
+The right-hand dyke leads to Somerton Broad, another reed-surrounded
+lake, possessing no particular merit. From Martham ferry we walked up a
+steep road to the village, lying around a broad green, and had we time we
+would have ascended the tower of the church, which is a conspicuous
+object for miles, and from which a splendid view of sea and lake is
+attainable.
+
+In the church we noted a tablet to one Burraway, whose history is told
+there, but is too unpleasant to be more than referred to here.
+
+After being so long on board a small vessel, one’s legs become cramped
+and unfit for walking, and the walk to Martham and back, only a couple of
+miles, quite tired us, and we were glad to get back to our little craft.
+In half an hour’s time we were passing under Heigham Bridge, and watching
+our man playing a seven-pound pike in the pool below. On the bank, by
+the cutter, he had arranged for our inspection a score of bream, from one
+pound to three pounds in weight, which he and another had caught early
+that morning and the night before.
+
+Before turning our faces again towards Yarmouth, it may be mentioned that
+yachts may safely be moored to the bank anywhere above Acle, care being
+taken to avoid the obviously shallow parts.
+
+In many places you will notice the eel-sets, which are fixed nets across
+the river for the purpose of intercepting the silver-bellied eels on
+their migration to the sea. These nets are only set at night, and there
+is a man in charge (sheltered in a rough sort of house-boat or hut), to
+lower the nets when craft are passing, so that they do not obstruct the
+navigation. Immense quantities of eels are caught in these nets, and it
+has been proved by an inquiry conducted by the Yare Preservation Society,
+that other fishes are not caught therein, and that the sport of the
+anglers is in no wise interfered with.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter end]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+BACK TO YARMOUTH.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] It was two o’clock when we hoisted a
+reefed sail on the cutter, leaving the lateener in charge of the owner,
+who had joined us, and it was three o’clock when we reached Acle bridge,
+having done the seven miles in the hour, wind and tide with us. We left
+Acle at four, being much delayed in lowering and raising the mast, and
+reached Yarmouth (12 miles) by half-past five; so we made a pretty quick
+passage. We laid by the “Ale Stores” for the night, and were very
+careful to have the yacht strongly moored, for the tide runs fast. We
+were interested in the way the wherries dropped down out of the North
+River, with lowered masts, and a chain or weight out over the bows, so as
+to retard their speed, as they drifted stern first, steering, of course,
+by the pressure of the faster-flowing tide against the rudder. We had
+intended to drop down in a similar way, through the swing bridge just
+below us, and to go, by sea, to Lowestoft, a distance of only eight
+miles; but as the wind kept getting up, and Breydon was white with foam,
+we put off making up our minds until the morning, for the
+disproportionate bowsprits and open wells of the river yachts are not
+very suitable for sea work.
+
+Of course, we strolled upon the pier, and then returned to the quay-side
+by moonlight. We found that it was dead low water, and that the yacht
+had receded so much below the level of the quay, that no plank within
+reach would touch her. The man was in the forepeak fast asleep, and it
+was a long time before we could wake him, and then we jumped on to some
+wherries lying near, and he brought the jolly to us.
+
+[Picture: Perch] We woke at times during the night, and felt the boat
+swaying, and heard the wind howling in the rigging to a very pretty tune.
+In the morning there was no abatement, and although it was off the land,
+we shirked the wetting we should get at sea, and decided to go over
+Breydon, and up the Waveney. As the tide would not make until the middle
+of the morning, we took the jolly and rowed down to the harbour mouth at
+Gorleston. It is interesting to note how, for three miles, the river
+flows parallel with the sea, and, on the average, under half a mile from
+it, the dividing land being nothing more substantial than shingle and
+sand. Deeply interesting is it, also, to read of the early struggles of
+the inhabitants of Yarmouth to maintain a navigable waterway. Sometimes
+the river would open a new outlet for itself, and sometimes they made a
+new one for it; and, time after time, the river mouth got silted up with
+the wearing away of this soft eastern shore. Even now there is often
+insufficient water at the bar for deeply-laden vessels of ordinary size,
+and the entrance is particularly unsafe for sailing vessels to enter
+unassisted at certain times. Picturesque sights abound on the river, and
+the quays. Fishing smacks taking their brown nets on board from carts
+ranged alongside; boats of every form and size hauled up on the beach;
+vessels building; and vessels in dry docks, undergoing repairs; a regular
+covey of smacks, in tow of a powerful steam tug, and hundreds of similar
+sights of deep interest to a man bitten with the joint love of the water
+and the picturesque.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+YARMOUTH TO SOMERLEYTON.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] On reaching the yacht, after rowing
+back with the first of the flow, we started with two reefs down to beat
+over Breydon, on which the wind against the tide raised a respectable
+sea. There was a great deal of weight in the wind, for it was veering
+towards the south-west, having been north-west all night, and a strong
+south-west wind is generally full of puffs and squalls. Many times we
+had the water over the coamings of the well, and the lee plankways were
+always awash.
+
+“This is something like fun!” gasped Wynne, as he eased off the jib sheet
+to a squall, and the salt foam dashed in his face; “but there won’t be
+much skin left on my hands by the time we get to the top of Breydon.
+These enormous jibs are horrible things to have to work. If the yachts
+had finer bows, they would not want nearly so much head-sail, and would
+go as fast, if not faster.”
+
+This was heresy to our man, who had seen no other rig for river boats all
+his life, and he and Wynne had a heated argument on the matter, without
+either being much the wiser.
+
+On reaching the top of Breydon, we turned to the left, up the Waveney,
+for half a mile, as far as Burgh Castle, passing over the dreaded Burgh
+flats, where a wherry and a yacht were both hard aground, waiting for the
+tide to float them off. The deep water channel is not near the line of
+posts as one would imagine, but close along the west shore. We touched
+two or three times, but did not stick, and at last moored alongside a
+wherry, and landed to inspect the ruins on the top of the hill. No one
+passing along these waters should miss the ruins of Burgh Castle, a Roman
+station of great interest.
+
+There is a very extensive stretch of massive wall, with towers at
+intervals, and at the corners; and we spent a considerable time in making
+sketches of the ruins, and admiring the extensive view.
+
+We could, if we chose, continue on up the Waveney, but the next five
+miles of river are narrow, uninteresting, and with a heavy run of tide,
+while at the end is a fixed bridge—St. Olave’s, where the mast would have
+to be lowered. So we turned back into the Yare, and sailed up to the
+mouth of the new cut at Reedham. This is a ship canal, about three miles
+long, connecting the Yare with the Waveney. The tide flows and ebbs from
+the Reedham end of it. It is perfectly straight, and if the wind should
+be straight up or down it, there is nothing for it but to tow. Now,
+however, we had a beam wind, and tore along merrily enough. But trouble
+was in store for us. The canal is wide enough, but it is not kept
+“didled” out (“didling,” or “dydling,” being a Norfolk term for dredging,
+with scoops at the end of poles, and lifting the mud on to the banks),
+and the sides are very shallow. In the distance, we saw a large
+_billy-boy_, or topsail smack, from the Thames, and as we approached, it
+became only too plain from the rake of her mast, that she was aground in
+the very middle of the channel. We got the mainsail down directly, and
+ran along under the jib, and then, as we expected, ran aground alongside
+of her. A wherry coming behind lowered her sail, and stopped in time.
+The smack was laden with rice for Messrs. Colmans’ Works, and her
+skipper, instead of going round by Yarmouth, had tried the short cut by
+Lowestoft. After much shoving and towing we got past, and left the smack
+patiently waiting the rise of the tide, or the arrival of a tug.
+
+[Since the foregoing was written, the Cut has been much improved in depth
+by dredging, and piling the banks.]
+
+There is very good fishing to be had in the cut, and the banks are sound
+and dry, which is a rare thing on these rivers. There is a lift-bridge
+at Haddiscoe railway station, near the end of the cut, which takes some
+time to get opened; this is a great inconvenience, and even a serious
+matter when you are sailing fast, as there is not room to come about.
+They also sometimes fail to open the bridge wide enough, and some time
+since a large yacht had her mainsail torn as she passed through, by its
+catching on the corner of the uplifted bridge. A toll of 1s. for each
+yacht is taken, and a man holds out a bag on the end of a pole to receive
+it. The toll for wherries depends in amount upon whether they have the
+bridge opened for them or go through with mast lowered, and at night a
+chain used to be put across to prevent them stealing through unobserved,
+but the chain was frequently “charged” at full speed, and broken.
+
+In a quarter of a mile we emerged into the Waveney, and, looking back, we
+could see St. Olave’s bridge, a rather handsome structure. There are a
+few houses grouped rather prettily, and a good inn, the “Bell,” close by
+the Bridge, a quarter of a mile from Haddiscoe station, and about a mile
+from Fritton Decoy, a favourite lake for fishing, which we shall
+afterwards mention.
+
+ [Picture: Somerleyton Hall]
+
+We then passed through a railway swing bridge, where the East Suffolk
+Railway passes over, and sailed without further incident some two miles
+further to another swing bridge at Somerleyton, where the Lowestoft line
+passes over. This bridge is the worst on the rivers to pass when wind
+and tide are against you, as they so frequently are, and I am always glad
+to be well clear of its piles and projections, through which the tide
+swirls so swiftly.
+
+The reach below the bridge used to be the best in the whole river for
+pike, but the greater run of tide in recent years and the salter water
+has spoiled the pike fishing, for which one has now to go higher up the
+river.
+
+There is a very good inn at the top of the bank to the west of the line,
+called the “Duke’s Head,” and a very beautiful belt of woods skirts the
+marshes on the east side of the river, where some delicious “bits” may be
+obtained, and birds, butterflies, and flowers abound.
+
+[Picture: Dace] Somerleyton village is well worth a visit, for the owner
+of the estate has built some most artistic cottages and houses, which,
+with another score of years’ wear, will be beautiful. The hall, occupied
+by Sir Savile Crossley, M.P., stands in a sylvan park.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+FROM SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLES.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] The angling in all this part of the
+Waveney is extremely good, and the bream and roach are of large size. It
+is not nearly so much frequented as the other rivers or the upper part of
+the Waveney, and is practically unfished, on account of the difficulty in
+obtaining boats, there being no boating-station nearer than Oulton Broad,
+five miles away. Still, it is worth while rowing from Oulton Broad, half
+way to Somerleyton, for the takes of bream there lately have been
+wonderful, both as to size and number. The river is broad and deep, and
+one part is as good as another, provided that you select a sufficient
+depth of water.
+
+We had no time to fish, and as a matter of fact I cannot stay to fish, if
+there is a good breeze blowing; sailing first, fishing after!
+
+We lay to at the mouth of Oulton dyke, to get our lunch, which we had put
+off rather too long. The dyke is nearly as broad as the river, and a
+mile and a half long, leading to Oulton Broad, which we intended to
+visit, after going up the Waveney to Beccles. At the junction of the
+dyke with the river there is an excellent fishing spot, with a great
+depth of water. While we lay there, a large two-masted vessel, a
+brigantine of 100 tons, came along the dyke at a good pace, with topsails
+only set, and looked as if she were going to scoop all the water out of
+the river with her great bluff bows. Her crew were pointing out to us,
+as we lay on the Waveney, and presently the hail came across the narrow
+neck of marsh, “Do we turn up past you to go to Beccles?”
+
+“Yes, sharp to port; right around!”
+
+The topsails came down, and the mainsail went up with great celerity, and
+with the aid of her aft canvas, and the helm hard over, she came round
+the acute angle of the sharp bend with creditable quickness, looking a
+veritable Goliath on those comparatively narrow waters. As she was now
+head to wind, down came her canvas, and half-a-dozen men went ashore with
+a long line to tow, and tow they did all the way to Beccles, 13 miles, by
+which time they must have had enough of it. She was in sight all day
+over the marsh.
+
+After lunch, we sailed up the Waveney, having to tack a good portion of
+the way; but the river is so tortuous that some of the reaches can be
+sailed whichever way the wind is, without tacking.
+
+“How remarkably clear the water is!” remarked Wynne.
+
+“Yes, those weeds you see are 14 feet at least below us, and the river is
+deep close up to the banks. It is a very pleasant river to sail upon.”
+
+“And what a lot of small fish there are!”
+
+“Yes. The Waveney ought to be the best bottom-fishing river in England,
+it is so deep, clear, and sweet, but the poachers used to harry it
+dreadfully, with their long, small-meshed nets, and it was even _trawled_
+up by smacks, to get bait for sea-fishing, but the Norfolk and Suffolk
+Fisheries Act has stopped all that, or nearly all, and the river is
+rapidly recovering itself. There are some very large perch in it, and
+wherever you see the bank gravelly and free from reeds, the bottom will
+be hard too, and a haunt of perch. Look at those bulrushes.”
+
+“What huge ones, and what a quantity of them!”
+
+“Yes, the marshmen sometimes dry the heads, and rub them up to stuff
+pillows and cushions with.”
+
+On the north bank is the church of Burgh St. Peter, the tower of which is
+built in gradually-lessening steps, and presents a very strange,
+un-English appearance.
+
+The sail up to Beccles is a very pleasant one, and pretty bits
+continually present themselves. Two miles below Beccles there is a swing
+railway bridge, which is tolerably easy to get through, as there is not a
+great rush of tide through it, as under the bridges lower down.
+
+Beccles church had been a prominent object all the way, and when we
+arrived at Sayer’s Grove, so prettily sylvan a place that we decided to
+stay there the night, we went in the useful jolly another mile to Beccles
+bridge, 23 miles from Yarmouth, until lately a narrow arched stone
+structure, but now replaced by a wider and more convenient bridge.
+Passing through, we skirted the town of Beccles, until we came below the
+church, a sight no one should miss who is in the neighbourhood. Viewed
+from the river, it stands on the brow of a hill, in a commanding
+position. Landing, we climbed up a series of steps and reached the
+churchyard, whence a splendid view westward is obtained, the river
+winding in and out through the green marshes towards Bungay. The south
+doorway of the church is richly ornamented, but the peculiar feature of
+the church is that the tower, a very high and massive structure, is
+separate from it.
+
+Beccles is a quiet, old-fashioned place, with good railway accommodation,
+as a glance at the map will show. It is a cheap place to live in, as
+there are no heavy rates, these being defrayed by the letting of valuable
+marshes belonging to the town. It is a healthy little place, and pretty
+withal, and would, I think, be a capital place for retired persons with
+small incomes to settle in.
+
+The river is navigable for wherries and small yachts, for about ten miles
+further up to Bungay, but the navigation is rather troublesome, and there
+are two or three locks to be passed through.
+
+It is worth while to row up the river a few miles to Shipmeadow lock.
+The river all the way is very pretty, with crystal clear water, and the
+lock itself is quaint and old-fashioned.
+
+ [Picture: River Waveney]
+
+After laying in some stores we returned to the yacht, and spent a
+peaceful evening in the shadow of the wooded hill, beneath which we were
+moored.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+OULTON BROAD.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] In the night we were awakened by the
+sound of very heavy rain pattering on the deck and cabin roof, and
+presently we discovered that the recent very dry weather had opened the
+seams of the wood, and sundry persistent droppings evaded our attempts to
+escape them.
+
+“My nose is wearing away with one dreadful drop.”
+
+“Then open your mouth and catch it. Oh!”
+
+“What’s the matter?”
+
+“A drop went splash into my eye!”
+
+We made merry for a time, but presently it clearly became a case of “a
+drop too much,” and we sat up in despair. Just as things were getting
+uncomfortably wet, the storm passed off, and the morning dawned with a
+wondrous clearness and brilliance, while the air was full of the sweet,
+earthy scents that arise after rain. The reeds were fresher and greener,
+and the grasses and flowers glittered in the sun, like the radiant
+ripples on the water. And so, amid the songs of birds and the quickened
+joy of nature, we bowled along down the Waveney at a merry pace, and in
+two hours we had reached the mouth of Oulton Dyke, the sharp turn into
+which necessitated a heavy gibe.
+
+ [Picture: Oulton Broad]
+
+A mile and a half of this and Oulton Broad opened out before us. This is
+the most civilized of all the Broads, and is always gay with yachts
+sailing about, and populous with yachts lying at their moorings. It is
+of an irregular shape, and in the bight, or “ham,” at the north-east end
+of it, the yachts are thickly clustered. Also, for what reason it is
+hard to say, many of the old and worn-out fishing smacks of Lowestoft are
+brought into this corner, and moored against the bank, where very many of
+them have sunk, and all are picturesque in the extreme. Some large sea
+yachts also use this bight as a laying-up place for the winter. The
+river yachts and sailing boats are of every size and rig, and a paddle in
+and out among them is of interest to a nautical mind. At the lower end
+of the lake is a lock which gives access for sea-going vessels to Lake
+Lothing, which is a tidal lake, two miles long, ending in Lowestoft
+harbour and the sea. By the lock is one of the most charming hostelries
+it is possible to conceive. It ought to be called the “Angler’s Rest,”
+were it not already called the “Wherry Hotel.” Here there is capital
+accommodation for anglers, and boats, bait, etc., are provided at
+reasonable rates. There is also another comfortable inn, called the
+“Commodore,” and there are two smaller inns, the “Waveney Hotel”—the
+landlord of which, George Smith, is an excellent waterman—and the “Lady
+of the Lake.” The railway station is close by, and is now called Oulton
+Broad Station, but was formerly Mutford, that being the name of the
+village at the east end of the Broad. The village is very prettily
+situated between the two lakes, and is only two miles from the sea.
+There are lodgings to be had there, and for a place combining the
+attractions of lake, river, and sea, it has few equals. Of course, the
+Broad is within easy reach of Lowestoft, the most attractive
+watering-place on the coast of Norfolk and Suffolk. It has a fine pier,
+good houses, cliffs, a capital harbour for yachts, a harbour for fishing
+vessels, where the artist will find much that is picturesque, and an old
+part of the town on the higher ground to the north, which has many
+features of interest. It has not the noise and bustle of Yarmouth, but
+it is gay enough for reasonable people.
+
+At Lowestoft, facing the harbour, is the club house of the Norfolk and
+Suffolk Yacht Club, and annual visitors to Lowestoft would find it an
+advantage to join the Yacht Club for the sake of the conveniences
+afforded by the club-house.
+
+Oulton Broad has plenty of fish in it, and the fishing is free. When the
+rivers are flooded, and the rank water off the marshes pours into the
+river, the fish of all kinds crowd into the purer waters of the Broad in
+surprising numbers. Formerly it was noted for its perch, but for some
+time they appear to have decreased in numbers. Lately, however, they
+have been more freely caught. In a few more years the benefits of the
+Norfolk and Suffolk Fisheries Act will be more widely felt, as the
+abundance of small fish in the rivers plainly testifies. Pike are
+present sometimes in great quantity, but the supply seems to fluctuate
+considerably. For a few weeks each season they seem to be uncommonly
+numerous, and large catches are made. Then they fall off, and none are
+caught for some time.
+
+The shooting on the Broad is also free, and in the large room at the
+“Wherry Inn” is a most attractive collection of fishes and birds, which
+have met their death in this locality.
+
+The most interesting and tantalizing inhabitant of the Broad is the grey
+mullet, large shoals of which may be seen disporting themselves on the
+surface. They run to a large size, and seem to average two or three
+pounds in weight. Anglers cannot catch them as a general rule, but some
+persons say that they have succeeded, using small hooks baited with
+strange baits, such as the beard of an oyster, or a bit of boiled cabbage
+stump. I fancy that by using a fly cast, buoyed at intervals by bits of
+cork, and having small hooks baited with gentles, and then paying out a
+long line so as to cover a shoal, some sport might be had. At all
+events, the experiment is worth trying some day when there is no wind for
+sailing. The mullet, when alarmed by a net or other obstruction, has a
+habit of leaping high out of the water, and frequently leaps into boats.
+Once, while I was sailing through Reedham Bridge, a grey mullet, of four
+pounds in weight, leaped into the jolly-boat towing astern, and was
+captured.
+
+[Picture: Ruffe] At Oulton the mullet are often shot with arrows having
+heavy lines attached, while they are accidentally confined in the lock
+between the Broad and Lake Lothing.
+
+Well, we spent the rest of our holiday at Oulton, and as I was saying
+good-bye to Wynne at the station, I asked him what he thought of the
+Broads.
+
+“The finest places for boat-sailing and bottom-fishing in England. I
+shall bring a boat here in the winter for wild-fowl shooting on Breydon,
+and I shall certainly come again next summer.”
+
+So ended our cruise.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+ORMESBY AND FRITTON.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] There are still some very important
+Broads in Norfolk and Suffolk, which I could not mention in an account of
+a cruise, because they are not accessible from the navigable waters, and,
+as a matter of fact, I know comparatively little about them for that
+reason. There are the Ormesby, Filby and Rollesby Broads, lying together
+in a straggling group four or five miles north-eastward of Acle.
+Altogether, they contain 800 acres of water, but much of this is
+overgrown by reeds. The Muck Fleet, which we passed below Acle Bridge,
+is their outlet into the river Bure. They are very easily accessible
+from Yarmouth by rail to Ormesby station, on the North Norfolk Railway,
+and boats may be obtained at the Eel’s Foot, and the Sportsman’s Arms,
+the former having fair staying accommodation. The fishing is free, at
+all events to persons going to the houses named, and uncommonly good
+sport is to be had amongst pike, rudd, and bream, the number of a catch
+being counted by the hundred, and the weight by the stone. For fishing,
+pure and simple, Ormesby Broad is as good a place as any to visit.
+
+ [Picture: Fritton Decoy]
+
+The other lake I have not described is Fritton Decoy, a long curving
+lake, about a mile from St. Olave’s station, on the Yarmouth and
+Lowestoft Railway, and Haddiscoe station, on the Norwich and Lowestoft
+Railway. It is only open to anglers from April to September, being
+closed the rest of the year, to protect the wild-fowl decoys, which are
+still worked on it, by the two proprietors. For a note upon these
+decoys, and others in Norfolk, I must refer the reader to a paper upon
+decoys, written by Mr. Thos. Southwell, F.Z.S., published in a new
+edition of that most fascinating book, Lubbock’s “Fauna of Norfolk,”
+issued by the publishers of this book, and for descriptive accounts to my
+own larger book, “Norfolk Broads and Rivers,” published by Wm. Blackwood
+and Sons.
+
+Fritton is an exceedingly beautiful Broad, and its waters are very deep.
+It is, in fact, a lake, rather than a Broad proper. It is extremely well
+stocked with fish, and good sport may generally be obtained there. Boats
+can be obtained at “Fritton Old Hall.”
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter end]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+RAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] To begin with, it may be well to state
+that Norwich itself can be reached from London by two lines of
+railway—one via Colchester and Ipswich, and the other by Cambridge and
+Ely, the journey taking from three to four hours. From Norwich, Yarmouth
+and Lowestoft may be reached in an hour of slow travelling, and as the
+line runs by the river the whole way, and every station is convenient for
+fishing purposes, it will be desirable to give a list of them, with
+remarks upon the adjacent fishing places.
+
+
+
+WHITLINGHAM.
+
+
+This is too close to Norwich for very good fishing, although occasionally
+the fish seem to head up, and good takes are to be had. Good rowing
+boats may be obtained at Thorpe Gardens, five minutes’ walk from the
+station. Omnibuses ply between the Gardens and Norwich every hour. The
+reach of the old river is very lovely.
+
+
+
+BRUNDALL
+
+
+Is the station for “Coldham Hall,” at which inn visitors can be
+accommodated. The inn is ten minutes’ walk from the station down the
+river, and across the ferry. There are plenty of boats, and the place is
+much frequented. From here down to Buckenham Ferry there are large
+numbers of pike, and it is customary to row down trailing a bait behind.
+Roach and bream are plentiful.
+
+
+
+BUCKENHAM FERRY.
+
+
+From this station you have ten minutes’ walk down to the Ferry, where
+boats are to be obtained, and the fishing generally is good.
+
+
+
+CANTLEY.
+
+
+Close by the station is the “Red House” Inn, where there is good
+accommodation for visitors. Boats can be had. The fish, as a rule, run
+larger here than higher up. The water is deep and the tide swift. When
+the water is fairly clear, some good pike may be had.
+
+
+
+REEDHAM.
+
+
+The “Ferry” Inn is ten minutes’ walk. Good accommodation. The bream run
+large, so do the perch, of which there used to be large numbers _under
+the ferry boat_.
+
+The line divides at Reedham, one part going to Yarmouth and the other to
+Lowestoft. There is no fishing place on the Yarmouth branch, but on the
+Lowestoft line there are—
+
+
+
+HADDISCOE,
+
+
+whence the Cut may be fished. Boats are difficult to obtain, but the
+landlord of the “Bell” Inn, at St. Olave’s bridge, might procure you one.
+This is the station for Fritton Decoy.
+
+
+
+SOMERLEYTON.
+
+
+This would be an excellent fishing station if boats could be procured,
+but you cannot rely upon being able to borrow one. The porters at the
+swing-bridge, or the landlord of the “Duke’s Head,” might direct you
+where to obtain a boat. I think the latter has one or two. The bream
+are very large and numerous. The good fishing in this part of the river
+has been exemplified by Mr. Winch, of Norwich, who has taken 8 stone in a
+day—five bream weighing 20 lbs., and one bream weighing 6¾ lbs.
+
+
+
+OULTON BROAD.
+
+
+See the last chapter for full information as to this important fishing
+station.
+
+Another line from Norwich leads to—
+
+
+
+WROXHAM.
+
+
+7 miles. The river is full of roach, bream, perch, and pike, although it
+is much fished. Boats at Jimpson’s or Whittaker’s, where there is also
+fair accommodation for visitors. The Broad is a mile and a half down
+stream, from the bridge. It can be fished by permission only. Tickets
+to fish on the Broad can be obtained through Mr. C. J. Greene, Fishing
+Tackle Maker, London Street, Norwich, at 2s. 6d. per boat.
+
+
+
+COLTISHALL.
+
+
+Two miles further. The fishing is much better here than is generally
+supposed, but boats are not plentiful. Enquire at the waterside who is
+likely to have one at liberty.
+
+The Eastern and Midlands line runs from Yarmouth through the heart of the
+Broad District to North Walsham, on the Norwich, Wroxham, and Cromer
+line. The stations from Yarmouth are—
+
+
+
+ORMESBY.
+
+
+A mile and a half from its Broads, about 200 acres of which are free.
+The fishing is as good as it can be for pike, rudd, roach, and bream.
+Boats at the “Eel’s Foot” and “Sportsman’s Arms.” Staying accommodation
+at the former.
+
+
+
+MARTHAM.
+
+
+Not far from the river Thurne, but the next station is more convenient.
+
+
+
+POTTER HEIGHAM.
+
+
+Inns, the “Falgate” and “Waterman’s Arms,” where there is staying
+accommodation. Good boats at Applegate’s. The river Thurne and the
+channels through Heigham Sounds and Hickling swarm with bream, rudd,
+perch, roach, pike, and eels.
+
+
+
+CATFIELD.
+
+
+The nearest station to Hickling, but not so convenient for boats.
+
+
+
+STALHAM.
+
+
+Barton Broad is within a mile and a half, where the fishing is excellent.
+Plenty of boats obtainable at the end of the dyke. Inns, the “Maid’s
+Head” and the “Swan,” both very comfortable. Stalham is a pretty
+village.
+
+Thence to North Walsham there is no fishing station of interest.
+
+On the direct line between Yarmouth and Lowestoft, ST. OLAVE’S is the
+nearest station to Fritton.
+
+
+
+ACLE
+
+
+Is now a station on the new line between Norwich and Yarmouth, joining
+the old line at Brundall.
+
+Of places not accessible by rail, the chief is Horning Ferry, on the
+Bure, where there is a capital inn to stay at, kept by a good host and
+sportsman, Mr. Thompson, who can be relied upon to make his visitors
+comfortable. At Horning village, the “New” Inn deserves mention, and
+boats can be procured there. Horning is about four miles’ drive from
+Wroxham, and ten from Norwich.
+
+The reader is requested to look at the Map, and note the relative
+position of the various places. As to fishing, it can hardly be said
+that one is better than another, for all are so good.
+
+
+
+
+NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.
+
+
+Under this Act, which was passed in 1877, certain Bye-laws have been
+made, with which the reader should make himself acquainted.
+
+ APPROVED BYE-LAWS.
+
+ CLOSE TIME—ALL WATERS.
+
+1. No person shall fish for, catch, take, or kill, or attempt to
+catch, take, or kill, otherwise than by rod and line, within the
+limits of the above Act, any Trout, between the 10th day of
+September and the 25th day of January, both days inclusive, or any
+other kind of fish, between the 1st day of March and the 30th day
+of June, both days inclusive, except Smelts, Bait, and Eels, as
+hereinafter provided.
+ NETS GENERALLY.
+2. No person shall, for the purpose of taking Fish within the
+ limits of the above Act, do any of the following things:—
+ 1. Use or attempt to use any Net between one hour
+ after sunset and one hour before sunrise, except
+ in the River Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in
+ the River Nene below Wisbeach Bridge.
+ 2. Use or attempt to use, at any time before the
+ 30th day of June, 1890, for the purpose of
+ taking Fish, other than Tench, Smelts, Bait, and
+ Eels, any Net having a mesh of less dimensions
+ when wet than three inches from knot to knot,
+ measured on each side of the square, or twelve
+ inches all round.
+ 3. Use or attempt to use any Net having a wall or
+ facing, with a mesh of less dimensions when wet
+ than seven inches from knot to knot, measured on
+ each side of the square, or 28 inches all round.
+ 4. Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river,
+ any Bow Net.
+ 5. Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river,
+ any Drag Net having a poke or pocket.
+ 6. Use or attempt to use a drag net of any kind in
+ the under-mentioned waters:—
+ 1. The River Yare or Wensum—
+
+ 2. The River Waveney—
+
+ 3. The River Bure, below the lower entrance
+ into Wroxham Broad—
+
+ 4. The River Ant, below the lower entrance into
+ Barton Broad—
+
+ 5. The River Thurne, below the entrance into
+ Somerton Broad—
+ except with the previous permission in writing
+ of the Board of Conservators, under their Common
+ Seal.
+3. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use or
+attempt to use, any net for taking Fish, unless it is sufficiently
+weighted to sink vertically in the water, or take, or attempt to
+take, Fish by placing two or more Nets behind or near to each
+other, or use any other device or artifice so as practically to
+diminish the size of the mesh of any net allowed to be used by
+these Bye-Laws, or to evade this provision.
+ PROHIBITING USE OF TRIMMERS, &C., IN NAVIGABLE RIVERS.
+4. No person shall use, or attempt to use, any Trimmer, Ligger,
+Dead Line, or Snare, or any like Instrument or Engine, for the
+purpose of taking Fish in any navigable river within the limits of
+the above Act, except Lines for taking Eels as hereinafter
+provided.
+ TAKING SMELTS.—RIVERS YARE AND WENSUM.
+5. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
+attempt to use, any Net in the River Yare or Wensum for the purpose
+of taking Smelts, except a Cast Net or Drop Net, between the 10th
+day of March and the 12th day of May, both days inclusive, and then
+only between the New Mills, in the parish of Saint Swithin, in the
+City of Norwich, or Trowse Bridge, in Trowse, or Trowse Newton, and
+the junction of the Rivers Yare and Wensum at a place known as
+Trowse Hythe, and between Hardley Cross and the junction of the
+Rivers Yare and Waveney.
+6. No person shall use, or attempt to use, a Cast Net or Drop Net
+exceeding 16 feet in diameter, in the River Yare or Wensum, within
+the limits of the above Act.
+ TAKING SMELTS.—RIVER WAVENEY.
+7. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
+attempt to use, in the River Waveney, above the Burgh Cement works,
+any Net for the purpose of taking Smelts, except between the 10th
+day of March and the 12th day of May, both days inclusive, and then
+only at the places and by the means hereinafter mentioned, viz.,
+between Rose Hall Fleet, and the Boat-house Hill, near Beccles, and
+in the pen of Shipmeadow Lock, by a Cast Net or Drop Net not
+exceeding 16 feet in diameter, and if any such Net be used between
+one hour after sunset and one hour before sunrise, the same shall
+be used with a light or flare, and not otherwise.
+ TAKING SMELTS.—RIVERS OUSE, NAR, AND NENE.
+8. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, take or
+kill, or attempt to take or kill, Smelts in the Rivers Ouse, Nar,
+or Nene, between the 1st day of April and the 31st day of August,
+both days inclusive.
+9. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use or
+attempt to use, in the Rivers Ouse, Nar, or Nene, for the purpose
+of taking Smelts, any Net having a mesh of less dimensions, when
+wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot to knot, measured on
+each side of the square.
+ TAKING SMELTS.—BREYDON WATER.
+10. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
+attempt to use, in the water known as Breydon Water, for the
+purpose of taking Smelts, any Net in the months of May, June, July,
+and August, or any Net between the 1st day of September and the
+30th day of April, both days inclusive, having a mesh of less
+dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot to
+knot, measured on each side of the square.
+ TAKING BAIT.—NAVIGABLE RIVERS.
+11. No person shall, for the purpose of taking Bait in any
+navigable river within the limits of the above Act (except in the
+River Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in the River Nene below
+Wisbeach Bridge), use any Net other than a Cast Net, or any Cast
+Net having a mesh of less dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths
+of an inch from knot to knot, measured on each side of the square.
+ TAKING BAIT.—ALL WATERS.
+12. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
+attempt to use, any Cast Net exceeding twelve yards in
+circumference, between the 11th day of October and the 1st day of
+April in each year, or any Cast Net exceeding eight yards in
+circumference at any other time of the year, or any such net,
+having a sack, or purse exceeding fourteen inches in depth, when
+extended, for the purpose of taking Fish for Bait; and the word
+“Bait” shall mean Roach, Rudd or Roud, Bream, Dace, Ruff or Pope,
+Gudgeons, and Minnows, measuring less than eight inches from the
+nose to the fork of the tail.
+13. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, Net for
+Bait at any time on a Sunday; and no person shall, within such
+limits, Net for Bait at any time on a week-day except between one
+hour before sunrise and one hour after sunset, nor unless such Bait
+is for use in angling, or trolling, or taking Eels within the
+limits of the above Act.
+ TAKING EELS.—RIVERS YARE AND WENSUM, ABOVE HARDLEY CROSS.
+14. No person shall, for the purpose of taking Eels in the Rivers
+Yare and Wensum, above Hardley Cross, do any of the following
+things:—
+ 1. Use or attempt to use in the months of
+ April, May, and June, a line with a hook or
+ hooks, except in connection with a rod used
+ for the purpose of Angling.
+ 2. Use or attempt to use any Net in the months
+ of April, May, and June.
+ 3. Use or attempt to use at any other time of
+ the year, a Line, whether fixed or not,
+ with more than one hook, except in
+ connection with a rod used for the purpose
+ of Angling.
+ 4. Use or attempt to use any Net other than a
+ Skim or Skein Net.
+ TAKING EELS.—ALL OTHER WATERS.
+15. In all other waters within the limits of the above Act, lines
+with one hook only, whether fixed or not, and fixed Nets, but no
+others, may be used at any time for taking Eels only.
+16. No person shall use or attempt to use, in any water within the
+limits of the above Act, a Dag or Spear, for the purpose of taking
+Fish other than Eels.
+ ALL WATERS.
+17. Any person, within the limits of the above Act, taking any
+Fish except Smelts, Eels, or Bait in any Net allowed by the Bye
+Laws to be used for taking Smelts, Eels, or Bait respectively,
+shall immediately return such first-mentioned Fish to the water
+without avoidable injury.
+18. The foregoing Bye-laws shall not apply to any other than
+fresh-water Fish, or to the water known as Breydon Water, except as
+to Smelts, as hereinbefore provided.
+
+_I hereby certify that the foregoing is a true Copy of the Bye-laws made
+by the Board of Conservators under the above Act, and that such Bye-laws
+have been approved by one of Her Majesty’s Principal Secretaries of
+State, and have been duly advertised as approved Bye-laws in newspapers
+circulated in the Counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, and have been
+otherwise published as the Board directed._
+
+_Sealed by order of the Board._
+
+
+
+
+TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.
+
+ FROM CARROW BRIDGE.
+ YARE.
+ _Miles_.
+To Trowse Hythe ½
+,, Thorpe Second Bridge 1½
+,, Whitlingham Ferry 2
+,, Corby’s Dyke 2¼
+,, Postwick Grove 3¼
+,, ,, Hall 3¾
+,, Wood’s End 4¼
+,, Wilde’s Cottage 4½
+,, Surlingham Ferry 5¾
+,, Coldham Hall 7¾
+,, Walpole’s Reed Bush 9
+,, Buckenham Ferry 10
+,, Hassingham Dyke 10¾
+,, Langley Dyke 11¾
+To Cantley Red House 12¾
+,, Devil’s House 13¼
+,, Hardley Mill 14
+,, ,, Dyke 14¼
+,, ,, Cross 15¼
+,, Norton Staithe 15¼
+,, Reedham Ferry 15½
+,, ,, End of New Cut 17
+,, Upper Seven Mile House 18½
+,, Berney Arms 20¾
+,, Burgh Flats 21
+,, Yarmouth Drawbridge 25
+,, Gorleston Pierhead 27¼
+ FROM REEDHAM BRIDGE.
+ WAVENEY.
+To Herringfleet Bridge 3
+,, Somerleyton Bridge 4½
+,, Oulton Dyke 7½
+,, ,, Broad 8¾
+To Mutford Lock 9¾
+,, Lowestoft Bridge 11½
+,, ,, Pierhead 11¾
+ FROM YARMOUTH BRIDGE.
+ YARE.
+To Berney Arms 4¼
+,, Reedham Town 8
+,, Norton Staithe 9¾
+,, Hardley Cross 10
+,, Cantley 12½
+,, Buckenham Ferry 15
+,, Coldham Hall 18¼
+,, Surlingham Ferry 19¾
+,, Bramerton Wood’s End 21
+,, Postwick Grove 22
+,, Whitlingham 23
+,, Carrow Bridge 25
+ WAVENEY.
+To Burgh Cage 4¾
+,, St. Olave’s Bridge 9½
+,, Mouth of New Cut 9¾
+,, Somerleyton Bridge 12¼
+,, Mouth of Oulton Dyke 15
+,, Carlton Share Mill 16¼
+,, Seven-Mile Corner 17¾
+,, Six-Mile Corner 18¾
+,, Worlingham Staithe 20
+,, Aldeby Staithe 20½
+,, Beccles Mill 21
+,, Sayer’s Grove 22
+,, Beccles Bridge 23
+,, Nine Poplars 24¼
+To Dawson’s Dip House 24¾
+,, Barsham’s Boat House 25¾
+,, Mouth of Oulton Dyke 15
+,, Horse Shoe Point 16
+,, Oulton Broad 16½
+,, Mutford Bridge 17¼
+,, Lowestoft Bridge 19
+,, Length of New Cut 2½
+BURE.
+To Three-Mile House 3
+,, Runham Swim 5½
+,, Six-Mile House 6½
+,, Seven-Mile House 8½
+,, Stokesby Ferry 10
+,, Acle Bridge 12
+,, Fishley Mill 12½
+,, Thurne Mouth 15¼
+,, St. Benet’s Abbey 17
+,, Mouth of Ant 17½
+,, Horning Ferry 21
+,, Horning Point 22
+,, Wroxham Broad 25½
+,, Wroxham Bridge 27
+,, Belaugh 31
+,, Coltishall Bridge 34
+,, Aylsham Bridge 45
+ THURNE.
+To Thurne Mouth 15¼
+,, Potter Heigham Bridge 19
+,, Candler’s Dyke 19½
+,, Hickling Staithe 22¼
+ ANT.
+To Mouth of Ant 17½
+,, Ludham Bridge 18¼
+,, Mouth of Barton Broad 21¾
+,, End of Barton Broad 22½
+,, Stalham 23½
+,, Stalham Staithe 24¼
+From Yarmouth Bridge to Runham Swim 5½
+ ,, ,, ,, Six-Mile House 6½
+ ,, ,, ,, Seven-Mile House 8½
+ ,, ,, ,, Stokesby Ferry 10
+ ,, ,, ,, Acle Bridge 12
+From Acle Bridge to Fishley Mill ½
+ ,, ,, ,, Thurne Mouth 3¼
+ ,, ,, ,, St. Benet’s 5
+ ,, ,, ,, Mouth of Ant 5½
+ ,, ,, ,, Horning Rectory 7½
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Ferry 9
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Point 10
+ ,, ,, ,, Entrance to Wroxham Broad 13½
+ ,, ,, ,, Wroxham Bridge 15
+From Wroxham Bridge to Belaugh 4
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Coltishall 7
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Aylsham 18
+From Yarmouth Bridge to Wroxham Bridge 27
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Coltishall 34
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Aylsham 45
+From Thurne Mouth to Heigham Bridge 3¾
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Kendal Dyke 4¼
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Hickling Staithe 7
+From River Ant to Ludham Bridge ¾
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Mouth of Barton Broad 4¼
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, End of ,, ,, 5
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, End of Stalham Broad 6
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, Staithe 6¾
+
+TIDES.
+
+ h. m.
+It is high water at Lowestoft 0 43 later than at
+ Yarmouth Bar
+,, ,, ,, ,, Cantley 3 0 ,, ,,
+ ,, ,,
+ ,,
+,, ,, ,, ,, Coldham 4 0 ,, ,,
+Hall ,, ,,
+ ,,
+,, ,, ,, ,, Oulton 4 0 ,, ,,
+ ,, ,,
+ ,,
+,, ,, ,, ,, Horning 4 0 ,, ,,
+ ,, ,,
+ ,,
+
+The Tide flows and ebbs in the Bure one hour later than at Yarmouth
+Bridge.
+
+ Springs. Neap.
+The rise at Yarmouth is 6 feet 4½ feet
+,, ,, ,, Lowestoft ,, 6½ ,, 5¼ ,,
+,, ,, ,, Cantley ,, 2½ ,, 1½ ,,
+,, ,, ,, Oulton ,, 2 ,, 1¼ ,,
+
+
+The Tides, however, vary according to the strength and direction of the
+wind and the quantity of flood water in the river.
+
+
+
+
+FISHING GENERALLY.
+
+
+In the rivers it is customary to fish in 10 to 14 feet of water, and the
+shortness of the swims necessitates the line being heavily weighted, in
+order that it may sink rapidly. The floats are necessarily large,
+particularly when used for the lower reaches, where there is a
+considerable tidal current. The boats are moored in a line with the
+stream, not across it, as on the Thames, and the swims are thus very
+short. For the upper and clearer waters, the Nottingham system of
+angling might be advisable, but in the more turbid lower reaches the
+Norfolk style is practically the best. Worms are used for bream, and
+paste for roach. Worms are procurable at some of the tackle shops, but
+anglers will do well to provide them for themselves if possible.
+
+Boats are charged for at the rate of from 1s. to 2s. a-day, but are
+rather rough concerns, except at Oulton.
+
+Ground-bait, consisting chiefly of meal and clay, is largely used, but a
+place is rarely baited beforehand. As there is ample choice of stations,
+always moor so that the wind is at your back, and you will thus have
+smooth water in front of you.
+
+Small roach as bait for pike, are procurable at most of the waterside
+inns, at 1s. to 1s. 6d. a score, but to get the best sport obtain fish
+from other waters, particularly dace and gudgeon.
+
+Pike are, of course, the chief fish in Norfolk, and are plentiful
+everywhere. In the rivers they do not run very large, a ten-pound fish
+being considered a good one, but in a few years’ time, with the freedom
+from netting the rivers now enjoy, we may expect some very large ones to
+be caught in the rivers. In private waters there are veritable monsters,
+but the stranger is not likely to make acquaintance with them.
+
+Live-baiting and spinning with a spoon, or artificial bait trailed behind
+a boat, are the usual modes of fishing for pike in Norfolk. Trolling
+with a dead gorge, and spinning with a dead bait by casting, as in the
+Thames, are comparatively rarely practised, although I believe that in
+some portions of the rivers these methods would “pay.” I have seen
+fly-fishing for pike practised with success here, and I firmly believe
+that on some of the shallower Broads it would be very deadly.
+
+ [Picture: Ormesby Broad—Landing stage]
+
+Perch are only locally common wherever there is a suitable bottom for
+them, as at Irstead Shoals and Hickling, and in some portions of the Bure
+and Waveney, but they run to a large size, and are sometimes caught
+between three and four pounds in weight.
+
+Bream are most common of all, and may be caught by hundreds and the stone
+weight. They run up to five and six pounds in weight, and a take by two
+rods in a day of 150, averaging half-a-pound apiece, is not a rare event.
+
+Roach are very numerous and large, many running close to two pounds in
+weight.
+
+Rudd are beautiful game fish, common in some of the Broads, particularly
+Ormesby, and give rare sport if you get among a shoal of them.
+
+Eels are, of course, present in any number, and “babbing” for them, with
+a bunch of worms threaded on to worsted, is not a bad way of passing a
+warm night.
+
+Tench are common, but are not often caught with a rod and line. They are
+taken in bow nets, and run very large. In hot weather, in June, they may
+be taken by the hand as they bask in the shallow water among the weeds.
+Some fishermen are very skilful in this particular mode of catching them.
+
+Carp are caught sometimes, but not often, although there are plenty of
+them.
+
+Dace and gudgeon are not so frequently caught in the navigable waters as
+other fish.
+
+Chub and barbel are unknown in the Broad District.
+
+The bream are so excessively abundant that they spoil the fishing for
+other fish, notably for perch, and I think it would be an excellent thing
+if the different preservation societies would set apart a few days each
+year for systematic netting to thin the bream, replacing the other fish,
+and selling those retained. What is the good to anglers of catching
+thousands of small bream? Are not a score over a pound weight each
+better than ten-score fingerlings? Judicious thinning out, under proper
+supervision, would have a most beneficial effect on the size of the fish
+generally.
+
+There are several preservation societies, of which the Yare Preservation
+Society is the chief. Mr. C. J. Greene, of London Street, Norwich,
+Fishing Tackle Maker, is the honorary secretary. The objects of these
+societies are to abolish netting and poaching, and protect the river for
+fair angling. The subscriptions are nominal (5s.), and yet they are
+supported entirely by local efforts. As a rule, none of the anglers from
+London and other distant parts, who come down to Norfolk and have the
+best of sport, contribute anything to the societies which are
+instrumental in furnishing them with sport. This is exceedingly shabby
+of visitors here, and I trust that those who have been induced to visit
+the Broads through my writings will at least make the small return to
+Norfolk anglers of assisting them in their efforts to make these waters
+the best public fishing places in the kingdom.
+
+There are a few professional fishermen to be hired by the angler.
+“Professor” Day, of Richmond Hill, Norwich, is one of the best, and knows
+every inch of water, and there are some good men at Oulton.
+
+Strangers frequently complain that they cannot meet with the excellent
+sport which falls to the lot of the local anglers, and I remember Mr.
+Cholmondeley Pennel being immensely dispirited at his non-success on our
+waters. I lately interviewed a local gentleman who is well known as a
+successful fisherman, and I append my questions and his remarks thereon,
+which will afford some valuable information.
+
+
+
+ROACH.
+
+
+_1. Where found at different periods of the year_?
+
+Throughout the summer the entire length of our local streams where the
+water is fresh and not salt or brackish; the finest fish and greatest
+number between Cantley and Coldham Hall, on the Yare; large numbers also
+in the dyke leading from Oulton Broad. In winter they appear generally
+to retire to the deep waters, and are sometimes found in good quantity
+about Thorpe Broad, and may be angled for with success in deep spots on
+the Bure and other waters.
+
+_2. Best periods to fish for them_?
+
+July to October, but good catches may often be had in November, and
+during the winter and early spring months by any expert angler who
+doesn’t mind the cold.
+
+_3. What time of day at different seasons_?
+
+As a rule, but few fish are caught during the middle of the day; this is
+especially the case in bright warm weather. On dull, “close” days,
+however, they will often bite freely throughout the day. The morning up
+to about 11.30, and from 3 to 6 or 7 p.m. are undoubtedly the best times
+to fish during summer, and in winter almost any time up to sunset.
+
+_4. What depth of water_?
+
+As a rule, the best fish are found during summer in the deepest water,
+and should not be angled for on the Yare at a less depth than nine or ten
+feet. On the Bure the deepest spots that can be found. In March or
+April shallower waters should be tried.
+
+_5. How affected by the tide_?
+
+Variously. Sometimes an angler gets all his fish on the up tide, and at
+other times on the ebb. I, however, suspect that certain local
+formations of the river bed, have much to do with this.
+
+_6. What ground-bait_?
+
+The best I have ever used is composed of bran, bread, and boiled wheat,
+in fair proportions, made up into firm balls about the size of an orange.
+One of these thrown in occasionally, and now and then a few grains of
+boiled wheat will generally suffice to keep a good quantity of fish about
+your boat.
+
+_7. Are places ever baited beforehand_?
+
+Not often for roach. Believe this is done occasionally by some, but have
+never practised it myself.
+
+_8. What baits are most successful_?
+
+During summer the most successful baits are well-boiled wheat and paste,
+red or white, in such clear waters as the Waveney and the upper reaches
+of Bure, etc. White paste is best on the Yare, the red always kills the
+best fish. In autumn, gentles, and later on brandlings and gentles, or
+better still, small red worms, “blood.” There are many other baits used
+with good success occasionally, but these are by far the most reliable.
+
+_9. What kind of rod_?
+
+For tight-line fishing in the deep waters of the Yare, the rod should be
+light, stiff, and from 15 to 18 feet in length. For running tackle a
+shorter rod will do, and for this I prefer one of hickory. Should
+recommend cane for the longer kind.
+
+_10. Number of hook_?
+
+When the fish are of fair size, I use No. 9, at other times Nos. 10 or
+12. Those known amongst anglers as “Crystal,” are excellent for roach
+fishing.
+
+_11. Is running tackle advisable_?
+
+Running tackle is decidedly preferable for such deep, strong waters as
+those between Coldham Hall and Reedham. For the slower waters of the
+Bure and the upper reaches of the Yare, I do not consider that running
+tackle has any advantages worth naming.
+
+_12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of line_?
+
+For deep-water fishing I always attach nine feet of gut to my line; six
+feet moderately stout and three feet fine drawn. Line, a fine _braided_
+silk. A light, well-shotted line of this kind has many advantages,
+especially on a windy day.
+
+_13. What kind of float_?
+
+Quill at all times. For deep swift waters, a large pelican or swan
+quill, for slower and shallower waters a much smaller one.
+
+_14. Is line heavily shotted_?
+
+For deep waters I use a float carrying upwards of 20 medium-sized shot.
+These are placed on a space of about a foot, the bottom one not nearer
+than about three feet from the hook, with just one shot on the gut
+attached to hook. This arrangement ensures the bait being carried
+swiftly to the bottom and kept steady, very important items in roach
+fishing.
+
+_15. Is float best attached by lower end only_?
+
+Yes, this plan which has been in practice with the “Norwich School” for
+many years past is decidedly the best, and admits of much more neatness
+and accuracy in striking a fish than when the float is attached by upper
+end as well as lower.
+
+_16. Do you strike at first dip_?
+
+When good fish are on the feed, the float is first affected by a slight
+tremulous movement, and almost immediately settles down, generally in a
+slanting direction; the moment to strike is just as the settling down
+commences. This, however, requires a large amount of practice and some
+keen observation before an angler becomes expert. Sudden perky bites
+indicate small fish, and these are often the most difficult to catch.
+
+_17. Are the fish much affected by change of wind, rain, thick water,
+etc., and is there any rule on this head_?
+
+Have always found a S.W. to N.W. wind the most favourable, especially
+when the water is “grey” or thick, and have had capital sport with a
+moderate east wind, but never when it has blown strongly from that
+quarter, and the old maxim
+
+ “When the wind blows from the east
+ The fish bite the least,
+ When the wind’s from the west
+ The fish bite the best,”
+
+contains a great truth in small compass. Fish may undoubtedly be taken
+in clear water and in good quantity, but running tackle and fine, and
+extreme caution are necessary.
+
+_18. Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or loud talking
+frightens the fish_?
+
+Loud talking or laughter in the boat does not appear to intimidate the
+fish, but knocking or any disturbance which communicates a vibration to
+the water is decidedly objectionable, especially in shallower streams,
+and often causes a great interruption to the fishing. Have found a pair
+of lawn-tennis shoes or slippers very good to wear in a boat when
+fishing, for this reason.
+
+_19. Name some of the best catches you have made or know of_.
+
+I do not chronicle my catches, so can give no dates; but have had some
+fine catches within the past five or six years, principally on the Yare.
+On one occasion, at Buckenham, with a friend, six stone {160} between
+2.30 and 7 p.m.; another time upwards of five stone in about the same
+space of time, and numerous catches of from two to four stone in an
+afternoon’s fishing; also more than a bushel by measure one afternoon
+with a friend fishing in the dyke leading to Oulton Broad. This was in
+the first week of September, 1879.
+
+_20. What is the reason of the non-success of strange anglers which is
+so noticeable_?
+
+Ignorance of the general requirements of tackle suitable for fishing in
+our waters, and also of the _modus operandi_, one of the chief reasons
+being a want of knowledge of the right depth at which to fish, which
+could easily be known by simply “plumbing” the depth. By way of
+instance, I have on several occasions found strangers fishing on the Yare
+in 12 or 14 feet of water, with their baits only about four or five feet
+below the surface, and at the same time wondering that anglers close by
+should be catching plenty of fish when they could get none. Baits, too,
+are doubtless used which, although very good for some streams or waters,
+are of very little use with us.
+
+N.B.—“When the wind blows strong and the waves roll high,” it is often
+very difficult to fish or even to detect a bite. This is very
+tantalising, and not infrequently happens through a shift in the wind
+when you are in a capital “swim.” The remedy for this is to put on a
+nice light ledger, with about three hooks, and with which excellent sport
+may sometimes be had when it would be impossible to fish in any other
+way.
+
+In float fishing for roach, the bait should be just touching the bottom.
+A good plan adopted by some is to fish with two hooks, the bottom one
+dragging on the bottom, and the upper one about three or four inches
+clear of the bottom. This is an advantage in fast streams, as it retards
+the onward motion of the float, the bait is more easily taken, and the
+swims are not passed so rapidly.
+
+
+
+BREAM.
+
+
+_1. Where found at different periods of the year_?
+
+During summer, on the Yare, principally between Langley Dyke and Reedham;
+in winter often found in good quantity in the vicinity of Thorpe Broad
+and about Carrow and Trowse Hythe. On the Bure they appear to congregate
+in the deep waters of the Broads in winter, and make their appearance
+about the end of May and through the summer on the river.
+
+_2. Best periods to fish for them_?
+
+July and August.
+
+_3. What time of day at different seasons_?
+
+Good catches of bream are often had in early morning. I have, on the
+other hand, had capital sport by moonlight.
+
+For further notes, see answer to same question on “Roach.”
+
+_4. What depth of water_?
+
+The deepest waters and quietest eddies are, as a rule, the best; but I
+have caught large quantities of fine bream at Wroxham, on the Bure, in
+not more than four feet and a half of water.
+
+_5. How affected by the tide_?
+
+Generally speaking, the most fish are taken from about half an hour
+before high water to half an hour after. For further notes, see “Roach.”
+
+_6. What ground-bait_?
+
+Boiled maize, boiled barley grains, barley meal made up into balls,
+chopped worms, boiled rice. This latter and grains I have found very
+killing on the Bure.
+
+_7. Are places ever baited beforehand_?
+
+Mostly overnight, where there is a fair opportunity of doing so. This
+mode is very telling on Broads and other still waters.
+
+_8. What baits are most successful_?
+
+For large fish at Cantley, Reedham, Somerleyton, and other deep swift
+waters, ledger fishing, with the tail end of a lobworm on the hook, is a
+capital bait. Generally speaking, however, I have found “brandlings” the
+most killing, and have found a brandling with a gentle placed on the
+point of the hook will sometimes be taken readily when no other bait
+would be touched. Red paste is often very killing on the Bure.
+
+_9. What kind of rod_?
+
+Strong and stiff cane or hickory, 15 to 18 feet long, with a good stout
+top joint, on the Yare. Shorter will do on the Bure.
+
+_10. Number of hook_?
+
+The finest catch I ever had was with No. 12 hooks. This was, however, in
+comparatively shallow water. Should say that No. 7 or 8 would be very
+good sizes for bream fishing generally.
+
+_11. Is running tackle advisable_?
+
+See “Roach.”
+
+_12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of line_?
+
+See “Roach.”
+
+_13. What kind of float_?
+
+See “Roach.”
+
+_14. Is line heavily shotted_?
+
+In a similar way to that recommended for roach, but having the bulk of
+shot placed nearer the hook, it being necessary that the bait should
+“drag” the bottom.
+
+_15. Is float best attached by lower end only_?
+
+As the bream bites more slowly and certain than the roach, this is quite
+immaterial. I prefer float attached top and bottom.
+
+_16. Do you strike at first dip_?
+
+A bream bite affects the float with a slight bobbing motion for a few
+seconds, he then runs off with it, and slides it down slantingly; strike
+as he runs off with the bait or the float is about to disappear, and you
+are sure of him.
+
+_17_. _Are the fish much affected by change of wind, rain, thick water,
+etc., and is there any rule on this head_?
+
+Bream are rarely taken in any quantity when the waters are very clear.
+See “Roach.”
+
+_18_. _Is legering successfully practised for large bream, and what is
+the best modus operandi_?
+
+In such rapid waters as those at Reedham, Somerleyton, etc.—no other mode
+of fishing for bream can be practised with any success worth
+naming—ledgers for attaching to line may be purchased at any tackle shop
+at 1s. each, and the _modus operandi_ is very simple, and by no means
+scientific. The rod requires to be very strong and of fair length, and
+three or four rods may be used from one boat at the same time.
+
+_19. Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or loud talking
+frightens the fish?_
+
+Bream are very sensitive to noise, especially knocking in the boat, which
+invariably sends them off for an indefinite period, and should therefore
+be most carefully avoided.
+
+_20. Name some of the best catches you have made or known of_.
+
+About ten years ago, had, in company with a friend, a catch of 17 stone
+in one day on Wroxham Broad, and with only one rod each. Have heard of
+many catches from time to time of from 4 to 10 or 12 stone, but am unable
+now to give names or dates.
+
+_21. What is the reason of the non-success of strange anglers which is
+so noticeable_?
+
+See “Roach.”
+
+N.B. In fishing for bream, the bait should always drag on the bottom.
+
+
+
+
+YACHTING.
+
+
+It will have been gathered from the foregoing pages that the Rivers and
+Broads of Norfolk and Suffolk present exceptional facilities for
+small-boat sailing and smooth-water yachting, better, perhaps, than any
+other part of England. There are two yachting clubs, the Norfolk and
+Suffolk Yacht Club and the Yare Sailing Club, the latter a very
+flourishing institution, furnishing four or five regattas in the year for
+small 4-ton yachts and open boats.
+
+There are numbers of suitable yachts for hire, but, owing to the frequent
+changes of ownership, it is not practicable to give a list of those who
+have boats for hire, which would be of any use. Enquiry at the inns at
+Oulton, and advertisements in the Yarmouth and Norwich papers will
+generally elicit suitable answers. Bullen, of Oulton, is a likely man to
+have a yacht to let. Open sailing-boats with awnings to sleep under, and
+small cabin yachts of four to ten tons, can be obtained of Loynes,
+Wroxham; and comfortable craft they are. The awnings of the small boats
+are waterproof, and most ingeniously constructed, and the boats can be
+rowed or sailed anywhere. Loynes may be trusted to provide everything
+that is necessary for comfort, and his yachts and boats are largely
+patronized. They are all rigged Una fashion, with one sail, and are very
+easily managed. Canoes and rowing boats are in plenty at the riverside,
+at Norwich, Yarmouth, and Oulton.
+
+As before stated, the goods traffic on the river is carried on by means
+of sailing craft of from 20 to 70 tons burthen, called wherries. These
+are long, shallow, graceful vessels, with an enormous mast, supporting
+one enormous sail. The sail is spread by a long gaff, but there is no
+boom. There is only one halyard, and the sail is hoisted by means of a
+winch at the foot of the mast. There is no rigging to the mast except
+the forestay, which is mainly of use for lowering the mast, the latter
+being balanced on the tabernacle by a ton and a half of lead on its heel,
+so that it is raised as easily as it is lowered. These wherries sail
+very fast, very close to the wind, and are often managed by one man.
+Yachts built on the wherry plan are very comfortable craft, and easily
+managed.
+
+Wherries are frequently hired by private parties, the hatches are raised
+a plank or two higher to give greater head-room, the clean-swept hold is
+divided into several rooms, and a capital floating house is extemporized.
+
+There is now quite a fleet of permanently-fitted pleasure wherries on the
+rivers, which have ample accommodation for a party or family, and are to
+be hired at from 8 to 15 guineas a week.
+
+A good way of seeing the rivers, if you have no boat, is to give a
+wherryman a small sum to take you with him when he makes a passage.
+There are always numbers of wherries leaving Norwich and Yarmouth, and if
+you hail the one you fancy, you will be readily taken on board. Thus you
+might sail from Norwich to Yarmouth one day, up to Wroxham the next, back
+to Yarmouth and up to Beccles, at an expenditure of half-a-crown a day
+and refreshments. I am sure that visitors to either Yarmouth or
+Lowestoft will do well to avail themselves of this suggestion.
+
+The navigation is controlled by Acts of Parliament, but pleasure yachts
+are exempt from tolls, except, of course, at locks and Haddiscoe lift
+bridge.
+
+The rule of the road is very strictly adhered to by the wherries and
+local yachts, and necessarily so; but it is a point of honour not to
+harass business wherries if it can be avoided, as these are sailed for a
+livelihood, while yachtsmen sail for pleasure. Therefore, if there is a
+doubt, give the wherry the benefit of it.
+
+It is also a point of prudence not to cross a wherry’s bows too closely,
+as they would soon smash up a yacht. If you are civil to a wherryman he
+will be most civil to you, and don’t slang him if he doesn’t at once give
+way for you to pass him.
+
+The following racing regulations of the Yacht Clubs simply epitomise the
+custom and practice on the rivers, and must be adhered to:
+
+“That if two yachts be standing for the shore of any river or broad, and
+the yacht to leeward be likely to run aground or foul any bottom or bank,
+or not be able to stay without the windward yacht running foul of her,
+the windward yacht must be put about upon being hailed by the member of
+the Club who may be in charge of the leeward yacht; the yacht to leeward
+must also go about at the same time as the yacht she hails.
+
+“That in sailing to windward the yacht on the port tack must give way to
+the yacht on the starboard tack, and in case of collision, the owner of
+the vessel on the port tack shall be liable to pay all damages that may
+occur, and forfeit all claim to the prize.
+
+“That any yacht bearing away or altering her course to windward or
+leeward, provided there is no obstruction to prevent her keeping her
+course, thereby compelling another vessel to go out of her course, shall
+forfeit all claim to the prize. In running before the wind, the side the
+leading vessel carries her main boom is to be considered the lee side.
+
+“A yacht overhauling another may pass to windward or leeward; and when
+near the shore or shallow water, or when rounding any mark, flag, or
+buoy, _if the bowsprit of the yacht astern overlap any portion of the
+hull of the yacht ahead_, the latter must immediately give way and allow
+the former to pass between her and such shore, shallow water, mark, flag,
+or buoy; and should any yacht not give way or compel another to touch the
+ground, or to foul any mark, flag, or buoy, the yacht so compelling her
+shall forfeit all claim to the prize, her owner shall pay all damage that
+may occur, and the yacht so compelled to touch such mark, flag, or buoy
+shall not in this case suffer any penalty for such contact.
+
+“It is an established rule, and should be most strictly attended to by
+all yachtsmen, that where two vessels have to cross each other on
+opposite tacks, the one on the starboard tack must invariably keep her
+wind, and the one on the port tack must keep away and pass to leeward, or
+tack short when the smallest doubt exists of her not being able to
+weather the other. All expenses of damage incurred by vessels on
+opposite tacks running on board each other, fall upon the one on the port
+tack; but where the one on the starboard tack has kept away with the
+intention of passing to leeward, and they have come in contact, the
+expenses of damage fall upon her on the starboard tack, because by her
+keeping away she may have prevented the other passing to leeward. When a
+vessel on the starboard tack sees another attempting to weather her, when
+it does not seem possible, rather than keep away, she should put her helm
+down, for the less way vessels have when they come in contact, the less
+damage they will sustain. Should both vessels put their helms up and run
+on board each other, the most fatal consequences may arise, and therefore
+nothing should induce the vessel on the starboard tack to keep away. All
+vessels going free must give way to those on a wind.”
+
+
+
+
+SHOOTING AND SKATING.
+
+
+This district is well worth a visit in the winter time, for the wild-fowl
+shooting on the tidal portions of the rivers is free (of course you must
+not trespass on the marshes for shooting purposes, as the shooting along
+them is strictly preserved). The usual plan is to row along the river
+while your dogs work through the reeds on the bank inside the river wall,
+or embankment, which generally runs parallel with the rivers on each
+side. Flight shooting is also successfully pursued, but of course you
+must obtain information as to the best spots in the line of flight.
+Oulton Broad is free, but is much shot over. Breydon Water is a capital
+fowling-ground in hard winters. It is the “happy hunting ground” of
+Yarmouth gunners. An easily managed sailing-boat of light draught is
+useful for this kind of work.
+
+Winter time on the Broads is very enjoyable. Being so shallow, the
+Broads are soon frozen, and the skating is then simply superb. Fancy
+Hickling, a lake of 400 acres, safe all over, with the ice as clear and
+hard as glass, _and plenty of “elbow-room_” for ice-boats as well as
+skaters.
+
+It would be worth while for skating parties to come down for a few days
+at a time while the frosts last, instead of struggling amid the crowds
+which beset London waters.
+
+
+
+
+FAUNA OF THE BROADS.
+
+
+I cannot do more than cursorily mention the abundant life which teems
+amid the Broads. I would refer the reader, for a full account of the
+life of the Broads thirty years ago and now, to that charming book,
+worthy to be ranked with “The Complete Angler,” and “The Natural History
+of Selborne,” “Observations on the Fauna of Norfolk, and more
+particularly on the District of the Broads,” by the Rev. Richard Lubbock,
+M.A., a new edition of which, with suitable notes by Mr. Thomas
+Southwell, has lately been issued by Messrs. Jarrold and Sons, London and
+Norwich. This book, together with Stevenson’s “Birds of Norfolk,” are
+necessary companions to the ornithologist on the Broads. For a fuller
+general descriptive account of the district, I may also refer the reader
+to my own larger book, “Norfolk Broads and Rivers,” published by
+Blackwood.
+
+Of course, water-fowl predominate. The heron, the great-crested grebe,
+the coot and water-hen are constantly to be seen. Dabchicks abound in
+places. I have seen a score together in some open water, at Surlingham,
+during a frost. Kingfishers are seen occasionally; water-ouzels never in
+the navigable waters. Wild ducks, widgeon, teal, and other ducks, gulls,
+terns, and waders of many species, hawks, kestrels, marsh harriers, and
+hen harriers are occasionally met with, particularly about Hickling.
+Owls, reed wrens, reed buntings, and bearded tits (I know a colony of the
+latter), and other birds occur to me as I write, but detailed lists of
+the Norfolk species will be found in the “Transactions of the Norfolk and
+Norwich Naturalists’ Society” of past years. It is sufficient to say
+that not only in the department of ornithology, but of entomology and
+botany, the specialist will find abundant work. During the days and
+nights I have spent in the more secluded parts of the waters, and
+particularly in the very early hours after daybreak, I have watched the
+habits of certain rare species, and discovered their haunts, which I
+would not reveal for anything, for to do so would be to expose them to
+the ravages of collectors. I am not a collector myself, nor have I the
+remotest pretension to science, but I am an enthusiastic student of what
+I may call the “home-life” of birds and animals. Therefore I cannot give
+accurate scientific information, in the shape of lists of Broad species
+without borrowing from the labours of others, and the clothing the dry
+bones with flesh would require more space than a guide-book will allow.
+But let a man lie in a boat, amid the reeds, for an hour of the silvery
+dawn, and watch a pair of great-crested grebes, feeding their young ones
+with small fish, and teaching them to dive and catch fish also, all so
+close that you might at times touch the birds with a fishing-rod, and he
+will partly understand what to me is the charm of Natural History. And
+for the romance of it there is no place like the reed-surrounded Broad
+and its marshy borders.
+
+
+
+
+Footnotes.
+
+
+{29} This bridge was the scene of a most disastrous railway collision,
+in September, 1874, when two trains met, and an appalling loss of life
+resulted, 25 persons being killed, and 60 or 70 injured.
+
+{70} [Note. This is left as first written, but it is necessary now to
+say that since the death of Mr. Chamberlin, the owners of the Broad have
+obtained a decision in the Superior Courts that the public have no right
+to fish on Wroxham Broad, and although the navigation question has not
+been raised, the owners claim the Broad to be private property. At the
+same time they courteously disclaim any intention of closing the Broad to
+the reasonable enjoyment of the public. Sailing on the Broad is freely
+permitted, but yachts are not allowed to moor there at night, on account,
+it is said, of the unavoidable refuse floating against the private
+pleasure grounds of the owners. Persons also are not allowed to land.
+It is to be hoped that the good behaviour of the public will remove all
+idea of closing the Broad to the public, which would be nothing short of
+a calamity. The regattas on this Broad which used to be such sources of
+amusement, have been quite discontinued, partly on account of the
+difficulty in getting the present racing craft up the North River, and
+partly through the reluctance of yacht owners to ask the favour of
+sailing where they formerly supposed they had a right.]
+
+{91} Sometimes called Wannick, or Wandyke, said to be a corruption of
+Swandyke.
+
+{160} Stone = 14 lbs.
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HANDBOOK TO THE RIVERS AND
+BROADS OF NORFOLK & SUFFOLK***
+
+
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+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en">
+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" />
+<title>The Handbook to the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk &amp; Suffolk, by G. Christopher Davies</title>
+ <style type="text/css">
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Handbook to the Rivers and Broads of
+Norfolk &amp; Suffolk, by G. Christopher Davies
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Handbook to the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk &amp; Suffolk
+
+
+Author: G. Christopher Davies
+
+
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2011 [eBook #35954]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HANDBOOK TO THE RIVERS AND
+BROADS OF NORFOLK &amp; SUFFOLK***
+</pre>
+<p>This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/fp.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Wroxham Broad"
+title=
+"Wroxham Broad"
+src="images/fp.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">Jarrolds&rsquo;
+&ldquo;Holiday&rdquo; Series.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<h1>THE HANDBOOK<br />
+<span class="smcap">to the</span><br />
+RIVERS AND BROADS<br />
+<span class="smcap">of</span><br />
+NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.</h1>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">by</span><br />
+G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES,<br />
+<i>Author of</i> &ldquo;<i>Norfolk Broads and Rivers</i>,&rdquo;
+&ldquo;<i>The Swan and her Crew</i>,&rdquo; <i>etc., etc</i>.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">REVISED AND ENLARGED.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">eighteenth
+edition</span>.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">JARROLD AND SONS,<br />
+3, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON;<br />
+LONDON AND EXCHANGE STREETS, NORWICH.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">branches: 182,
+king street, great yarmouth</span>;<br />
+<span class="smcap">the library, cromer</span>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">(<i>All rights reserved</i>.)</p>
+<h2><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+vii</span>CONTENTS.</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p><i>Chapter</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>Page</i></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Introduction.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#pagexi">xi</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">I.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The broad District.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">II.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Down the Yare&mdash;Norwich to
+Reedham.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">III.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Reedham to Yarmouth.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">IV.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Yarmouth to Acle.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">V.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Acle to Wroxham.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">VI.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Wroxham Broad.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">VII.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Wroxham to Coltishall.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">VIII.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Up the Ant, to Barton and
+Stalham.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">IX.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Womack Broad.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">X.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Hickling Broad.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">XI.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Horsey Mere and Somerton
+Broad.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">XII.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Back to Yarmouth.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">XIII.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Yarmouth to Somerleyton, up the
+Waveney.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page117">117</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">XIV.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">From Somerleyton to
+Beccles.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">XV.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Oulton Broad.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">XVI.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Ormesby and Fritton.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page136">136</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p style="text-align: center"><a
+name="pageviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+viii</span>APPENDIX.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Railway Access to Fishing
+Stations</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Norfolk and Suffolk
+Fisheries Act</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Tables of River
+Distances</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Tides</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Fishing
+Generally</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span
+class="smcap">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Roach</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span
+class="smcap">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bream</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Yachting</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Shooting and
+Skating</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page170">170</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">Fauna of the
+Broads</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="pageix"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+ix</span>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>Page</i></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Wroxham Broad</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>Frontispiece</i></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Pool in Surlingham Broad</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#pagexvi">xvi</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Pull&rsquo;s Ferry</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Bishop&rsquo;s Bridge</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Boom Tower</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Thorpe Gardens</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Norfolk Wherry</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">On the Yare, at Bramerton</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">On Rockland Broad</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Langley Dyke</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">St. Nicholas Church, Great
+Yarmouth</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Quay, Great Yarmouth</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page45">45</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A &ldquo;Row,&rdquo; Great
+Yarmouth</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">St. Benet&rsquo;s Abbey</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page54">54</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Cottage, South Walsham
+Broad</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Horning Village</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Ranworth Church</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Horning Ferry</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Belaugh Church</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Dyke Near Coltishall</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Ludham Bridge</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="pagex"></a><span class="pagenum">p. x</span><span
+class="smcap">River Bure at Hautbois</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A Woodland
+Pool&mdash;Irstead</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page82">82</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Entrance&mdash;Barton Broad</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Carrying Reeds&mdash;Barton</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Barton Staithe</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Ormesby Broad&mdash;Landing
+Stage</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Drainage Mill&mdash;River
+Thurne</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">River Thurne</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Hickling Broad</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Dyke at Potter Heigham</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Hickling Staithe</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Martham Broad</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Sound Asleep</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Somerleyton Hall</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">River Waveney</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page128">128</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Oulton Broad</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Fritton Decoy</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page137">137</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Ormesby Broad&mdash;Landing
+Stage</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="pagexi"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xi</span>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+<p>Since the first appearance of this Handbook, and the larger
+volume on the same subject, which the preface to the first
+edition stated to be in contemplation, the Broad District has
+become highly popular.&nbsp; Each year the tourist stream
+increases, but, happily, there is still plenty of room.&nbsp; No
+doubt some of the old <i>habitu&eacute;s</i>, who liked to have
+the whole landscape to themselves, grumble at the change, but the
+less selfish persons, who happily constitute the majority, do not
+object to seeing a dozen yachts where formerly they saw but one,
+or a score of anglers where in past years but half-a-dozen might
+be seen.</p>
+<p>A large trade has arisen in the letting of yachts, boats, and
+pleasure wherries for cruising purposes; but the inn
+accommodation has made little advance, and is still too meagre,
+and insufficient for the demand.&nbsp; The yachts have made great
+strides in speed and in number.&nbsp; The Norfolk and Suffolk
+Yacht Club has flourished exceedingly, and its regattas are
+popular.</p>
+<p>Artists have found out the charm of the quiet scenery <a
+name="pagexii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xii</span>of the
+Broads, and visit us in great numbers.&nbsp; Notably Mr. E. H.
+Fahey and Miss Osborn have given exhibitions in London devoted to
+the district.&nbsp; Then <i>litt&eacute;rateurs</i> without
+number have written magazine and newspaper articles, and others,
+after a few days&rsquo; scamper, have written exhaustive
+guide-books; and so the ball, which the present writer set
+rolling in earnest some years ago, is helped merrily forward, and
+the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk and Suffolk are fast becoming
+one of the most popular of English playgrounds.</p>
+<p>I should like to put the brake on a little in one
+respect.&nbsp; One guide-book writer appears to treat the
+riverside meadows as commons, and suggests that yachtsmen should
+bring lawn-tennis sets and cricket materials with them.&nbsp;
+Pray don&rsquo;t take such absurd advice.&nbsp; All riparian
+owners adhere stoutly to their just rights.&nbsp; It must be
+remembered that the rights of the public are limited to
+<i>passage along</i> the navigable rivers and the navigable
+broads, and the use of the banks of navigable waters for mooring
+purposes and for towing.&nbsp; The soil of the greater part of
+the river-beds is vested in the Crown, therefore angling is free
+to the public.&nbsp; Strictly speaking, the shooting over the
+Crown rivers is free, but this does not give persons a right to
+shoot an inch over the banks.&nbsp; Looking to the fact that the
+Bure is very narrow, and passes through private game preserves,
+let me earnestly entreat visitors not to fire off guns either at
+birds or at bottles (which last amusement appears to <a
+name="pagexiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xiii</span>be a
+favourite one) above Acle bridge.&nbsp; The sport to the visitors
+is <i>nil</i>, while the annoyance to the riparian owners is
+extreme.&nbsp; The riparian owners are generally willing to
+afford the well-behaved public all reasonable facilities for
+enjoyment.&nbsp; Let this be repaid by the public refraining from
+potting away at waterhens and pigeons, or other birds on the
+banks.</p>
+<p>It may be well to add that, up to about the year 1830, the
+Broads and wet marshes were simply waste; but by the Enclosure
+Acts and Awards, these watery commons were allotted and divided
+among the neighbouring landowners.&nbsp; In some cases the rights
+of navigation and staithes were expressly reserved.&nbsp; In
+others no reservation was made, and the Broads are absolutely in
+the hands of private owners.&nbsp; In other cases again, staithes
+and rights of way have grown into disuse, and channels have
+become choked up by mud and vegetation.&nbsp; In no case,
+however, has the right of the Crown to the bed of the common
+river been affected or changed by the Enclosure Awards.</p>
+<p>A great point to remember is, that the possessors of the
+Broads set as much store by their bulrushes and water lilies as
+the admiring visitor; therefore, do not gather any off the
+Broads.&nbsp; All flowers and grasses which grow in such
+luxuriance by the riverside, within the river wall, or the three
+yards from the river margin where the navigator has an
+indefeasible right, may as well be gathered for pleasure as die
+and rot.&nbsp; Here <a name="pagexiv"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. xiv</span>there is abundance for everyone; but
+to penetrate into quiet nooks of Broads and help oneself to other
+people&rsquo;s valued property, is an indefensible act, which by
+oft repetition has much irritated owners against the
+public.&nbsp; It is in this respect also that visitors from a
+distance are most prone to err, because, without reflection, it
+appears that no harm is done.&nbsp; Nor would there be much harm
+in a single instance, but &ldquo;many a little makes a
+mickle.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>As a general rule, visitors from a distance behave exceedingly
+well, being educated persons with a due sense of law and
+order.&nbsp; The bottle shooters, coot potters, and noisy
+revellers, the swan&rsquo;s egg robbers and grebe destroyers, the
+persons who use one&rsquo;s boat-houses as luncheon rooms or dust
+bins are, unfortunately, home products.&nbsp; Of course, I hear
+of all offences that are committed, and by some people I am
+actually saddled with the responsibility of any breach of good
+manners on the part of the public, because I am supposed to have
+brought the latter to the Broads.&nbsp; I therefore beg the large
+unknown public (of whose friendliness to me as an author I have
+had so many proofs), when they visit the Broads, not to allow the
+exhilaration of an enjoyable holiday to interfere with a due
+propriety of behaviour.</p>
+<p>The hitherto unwritten rules of the Rivers and Broads are
+these:&mdash;</p>
+<p>Do not, in the neighbourhood of other yachts or houses,
+indulge in songs and revelry after eleven p.m., even at regatta
+times.</p>
+<p><a name="pagexv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xv</span>Bathe
+only before eight o&rsquo;clock in the morning, if in sight of
+other vessels or moored in a frequented part of the river.&nbsp;
+Ladies are not expected to turn out before eight, but after that
+time they are entitled to be free from any annoyance.&nbsp; Young
+men who lounge in a nude state on boats while ladies are passing
+(and I have known Norwich youths to do this) may be saluted with
+dust shot, or the end of a quant.</p>
+<p>Adhere strictly to the rule of the road when boating,
+according to the instructions contained in a subsequent chapter,
+and when angling, moor out of the way of sailing craft, as
+afterwards explained.</p>
+<p>Do not throw straw or paper overboard to float to leeward and
+become offensive; but burn, or take care to sink all rubbish.</p>
+<p>Do not light fires, place stoves, or throw refuse on the banks
+in the path of others, whose yachts may be moored to the same
+bank.</p>
+<p>Steam launches must not run at full speed past yachts moored
+to the bank, particularly when the occupants of the latter have
+things spread out for a meal.</p>
+<p>Don&rsquo;t take guns on board unless you have leave to shoot
+on somebody&rsquo;s land.</p>
+<p>Remember that sound travels a long way on the water, and do
+not criticise the people you may encounter with too loud a
+voice.</p>
+<p>Don&rsquo;t go on a friend&rsquo;s yacht with nailed shoes
+(the commodore of a Thames sailing club once came on <a
+name="pagexvi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xvi</span>board mine
+in cricket shoes armed with spikes).&nbsp; Don&rsquo;t knock the
+ashes out of your pipe into his boat, and don&rsquo;t catch small
+fish and litter his decks with them, leaving them for him to
+clean up after you.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/pxvi.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A pool in Burlingham Broad"
+title=
+"A pool in Burlingham Broad"
+src="images/pxvi.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Don&rsquo;t moor outside another yacht without the permission
+of its owner.</p>
+<p>Ladies, please don&rsquo;t gather armfuls of flowers, berries,
+and grasses which, when faded, you leave in the boat or yacht for
+the unfortunate skipper to clear up.&nbsp; Don&rsquo;t play the
+piano in season and out of season (the reedbird&rsquo;s song is
+sweeter on the Broads); and don&rsquo;t turn out before eight
+o&rsquo;clock in the morning when other yachts are near.</p>
+<p>Observing all these simple maxims, any number of visitors will
+find plenty of room for their own enjoyment, without offence to
+anyone.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page17"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 17</span>
+<a href="images/p17.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"View of Sailing boats and Yachts"
+title=
+"View of Sailing boats and Yachts"
+src="images/p17.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER I.<br />
+<span class="smcap">the &ldquo;broad&rdquo; district</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc17.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc17.jpg" />
+</a>It is somewhat difficult to analyse the charm which the
+&ldquo;Broad&rdquo; District of Norfolk and Suffolk has for those
+who have once made its acquaintance in the only way in which an
+intimate knowledge of it can be gained.</p>
+<p>In a journey through it by rail, you see nothing but its
+flatness; walk along its roads, you see the dullest side of it;
+but take to its water-highways, and the glamour of it steals over
+you, if you have aught of the love of nature, the angler, or the
+artist in you.</p>
+<p><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>One
+reason may be that the rivers are highways.&nbsp; From them you
+view things as from a different standpoint; along them flows a
+current of life differing from that on either rail or road: the
+wind is your servant, sometimes your master; there is an
+uncertainty in the issue of the day&rsquo;s proceedings, which to
+an idle holidaymaker is most delightful, and the slowly-moving
+water is more like a living companion than any other inanimate
+thing can be.&nbsp; Houses are few and far between.&nbsp;
+Oftentimes within the circle of your sight there is neither house
+nor man visible.&nbsp; A grey church tower, a windmill, or the
+dark-brown sail of a wherry in the distance breaks the sense of
+utter loneliness, but the scene is wild enough to enchain the
+imagination of many.&nbsp; Long miles of sinuous gleaming river,
+marshes gay with innumerable flowering plants, wide sheets of
+water bordered with swaying reeds, yachts or wherries, boats,
+fish, fowl, and rare birds and plants, and exquisite little bits
+to paint and sketch&mdash;these are the elements out of which a
+pleasant holiday may be made.</p>
+<p>I wrote these lines whilst at anchor on Salhouse Little
+Broad.&nbsp; The evening was most still and placid, and the boat
+lay motionless among the lily leaves which covered the water
+around.&nbsp; The white lilies had so closed their petals that
+but the faintest morsels of white peeped out; but the yellow,
+which were most numerous, did not close so completely, and the
+dark interspaces of water were thickly starred with the golden
+globes.&nbsp; Beyond <a name="page19"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 19</span>the lily leaves was a belt of tall
+reeds, swayed only by the birds which have their home among
+them.&nbsp; The yellow iris flowers made the narrow neck of marsh
+ablaze with colour.&nbsp; Bounding the view was a cordon of
+trees; on the one side a wooded bank; on the other, but out of
+sight, the river.&nbsp; A rustic boathouse nestled amid the
+trees, white swans lighted up the dark shades, moorhens led their
+broods across the pool; the western clouds were edged with sunset
+glories, and the reflections in the water were as perfect as the
+things they copy.&nbsp; But though there was absolute calm, the
+lily leaves were not still, but moved tremulously, and sent
+ripples on either side.&nbsp; Looking closely, you saw that the
+leaves were covered with small insects, and the small roach were
+busily plucking them off the under side.&nbsp; You could hear the
+little snap or suck the fishes made, and once you caught the
+sound you found the air was full of these snaps, and a most weird
+effect the sound gave.&nbsp; The roach crowded eagerly round to
+eat the crumbs that I threw them.&nbsp; So fearless were they,
+that when I put my hand into the water and held it quite still
+for a while, they came and snapped at my fingers, and funny
+little tickling scrapes they gave.&nbsp; I actually succeeded in
+grasping one or two of the boldest.&nbsp; A piece of paper, which
+had been crumpled up and thrown on the water, was being urged to
+and fro by the hungry little fish, who tried to find it eatable,
+and tugged at it bravely.</p>
+<p>The clouds darkened.&nbsp; I went into my cabin as a <a
+name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>squall of
+wind and rain came on.&nbsp; The thunder grew louder and louder,
+and there, alone, with the tempest raging, I could yet write that
+the end of the evening was as pleasant as the beginning, so great
+to me is the charm of the water.</p>
+<p>I slung my hammock, hoping that on the following day the sun
+would shine, the wind would blow, and the hours would pass as
+quickly as the boat sailed, and slept as sound as man may.</p>
+<p>It has happened that I have written a good deal about these
+waters&mdash;too much, some people say.&nbsp; One result has been
+that I have been pretty well overpowered with correspondence
+arising from persons making enquiries about the district, with a
+view to visiting it; therefore, when the publishers requested me
+to write a kind of handbook or guide to the Broads and Rivers, I
+thought it a good idea, in that enquirers might, by buying such a
+book, save themselves the trouble of writing to me, and getting
+necessarily short and inadequate replies.&nbsp; I am afraid,
+however, the guide-book style is rather beyond me, and I shall be
+most at home if I try to convey the requisite information by
+describing one of the numerous cruises in which I have sailed as
+guide to those friends who have trusted their holidays to my
+care, and I will select one lasting but a fortnight, during which
+time we covered most of the available ground.</p>
+<p>Before doing so, a few words, descriptive of the situation of
+these rivers and lakes, will not be amiss.</p>
+<p><a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>From
+Yarmouth, looking inland, three main water-highways
+radiate.&nbsp; The chief is the Yare, flowing from the westward;
+then comes the Bure, flowing from the north-westward, and having
+her large tributaries, the Ant and the Thurne, flowing from the
+northward.&nbsp; From the south-west come the clear waters of the
+Waveney.&nbsp; All these rivers are navigable for considerable
+distances, and on the Bure and its tributaries the greater number
+of the Broads are situate.&nbsp; These Broads are large shallow
+lakes, connected with the rivers, and are many of them
+navigable.&nbsp; Flat marshes follow the lines of the rivers, and
+while higher and well-wooded ground rises near the upper portions
+of the rivers, near the sea the country is perfectly flat, and
+vessels sailing on all three rivers are visible at the same
+time.</p>
+<p>The level of the marsh is frequently below that of the rivers,
+and at the outlet of each main drain is a drainage pump, or
+turbine wheel, sometimes worked by a windmill, and sometimes by
+steam, which pumps the water out of the drains into the
+rivers.</p>
+<p>The fall of the river is about four inches to the mile.&nbsp;
+The ebb and flow of the tide are felt for thirty miles inland,
+but its rise and fall are very little indeed.&nbsp; There are no
+impediments to navigation of any consequence, so it may be
+imagined what a &ldquo;happy hunting ground&rdquo; this is to the
+boat-sailor, the naturalist, and the angler.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/tp21.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter end divider"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter end divider"
+src="images/tp21.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page22"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 22</span>
+<a href="images/hp22.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header divider"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header divider"
+src="images/hp22.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER II.<br />
+<span class="smcap">down the yare.&nbsp; norwich to
+reedham</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc22.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc22.jpg" />
+</a>&ldquo;Do you mean to say,&rdquo; said Wynne, &ldquo;that
+these Broads are worth my giving up a few days to seeing
+them?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;If you will give up a fortnight, I promise you that you
+will find it too short.&nbsp; You went to the Friesland Meres
+years ago, and enjoyed it.&nbsp; You will like these quite as
+well.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p23.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Pull&rsquo;s Ferry"
+title=
+"Pull&rsquo;s Ferry"
+src="images/p23.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>So he promised to come for a fortnight, rather reluctantly,
+and when, on his arrival in Norwich, he took a preliminary canter
+by rail to Yarmouth, he refused to say anything about what he
+thought of the country, which looked ominous.&nbsp; We had hired
+a ten-ton cutter, and she was lying at Thorpe, a mile and a half
+below the city.&nbsp; The man we had engaged rowed the jolly-boat
+up for us, and as Wynne was enthusiastic about old buildings, we
+rowed him up the river to the New Mills, a very old mill, which
+spans the river Wensum near its <a name="page25"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 25</span>entrance into the city.&nbsp; From
+thence we came back along the narrow sinuous river, overhung with
+buildings, many of them ancient and picturesque, under numerous
+bridges, wharves where wherries were loading or unloading, using
+the half-lowered mast as cranes, past the Boom Tower, still
+keeping watch and ward over the river; quaint Bishops&rsquo;
+Bridge; Pull&rsquo;s Ferry, where there is a ruined water gate,
+often sketched and photographed; past the railway station, into
+the reach parallel with King Street, where gables, and archways,
+and courts delight the painter.&nbsp; Here, on the left bank, is
+another Boom Tower, built of flint, the universal building-stone
+of Norfolk, faced by another tower on the opposite bank, whence
+runs a fine piece of the old city wall up the hill <a
+name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>to another
+and larger tower, in better preservation, on the summit.&nbsp;
+Then we next passed the very extensive works of Messrs. J. and J.
+Colman, and below them innumerable stacks of choice wood, out of
+which the boxes to contain the mustard, etc., are made.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p25.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Bishop&rsquo;s Bridge"
+title=
+"Bishop&rsquo;s Bridge"
+src="images/p25.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p26.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Boom Tower"
+title=
+"Boom Tower"
+src="images/p26.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;You speak of this as the Wensum,&rdquo; said Wynne;
+&ldquo;I thought it was the Yare.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;This river is the Wensum, but this smaller stream
+coming in on the right is the true Yare, and from this point the
+united river takes the name of the Yare.&nbsp; This spot is
+called Trowse Hythe, and half a mile up it, where there is a
+mill, was once a famous spot for smelts, where they were caught
+by large casting nets, used at <a name="page29"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 29</span>night by torch-light, but the town
+sewage has effectually spoiled the smelting.&nbsp; The pool below
+the New Mills was also a place where the smelts were caught in
+large numbers, but it is not so good now.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p27.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Thorpe Gardens"
+title=
+"Thorpe Gardens"
+src="images/p27.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Presently we came to Thorpe, where a bend of the river has
+been cut off by two railway bridges, and a straight new cut made
+for the navigation.&nbsp; We took the old river, and Wynne was
+charmed with the view which then unfolded itself.&nbsp; The long
+curve of the river was lined on the outer bank by picturesque
+houses, with gardens leading to the water&rsquo;s edge, while
+behind them rose a well-wooded bank.&nbsp; In the autumn of 1879
+this reach was found to be swarming with pike, and it speedily
+swarmed with anglers, who had generally good sport until,
+apparently, all the pike were caught.&nbsp; At intervals since,
+there have been similar immigrations of pike to this reach when
+tides unusually high or salt drive the fish up from the lower
+reaches.&nbsp; At the lower end of the reach is a favourite
+resort on summer evenings, a waterside inn, known as Thorpe
+Gardens, where we pulled up.&nbsp; Here there are also
+boat-letting stations, where cruising yachts can be hired.</p>
+<p>Just through the bridge, <a name="citation29"></a><a
+href="#footnote29" class="citation">[29]</a> we joined the main
+river again, and noticed several yachts moored against the bank,
+amongst which was ours.</p>
+<p><a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 30</span>Wynne
+stepped on board, curious to inspect a Norfolk yacht, and he
+freely commented on her enormous counter, short keel, great open
+well, and tall pole-mast.&nbsp; In a short time we stowed all our
+belongings, and set sail&mdash;mainsail, jib, and
+topsail&mdash;the spread of canvas rather startling Wynne, who
+had only been used to sea yachts.&nbsp; There was a light
+north-westerly wind, and we glided swiftly away before it.&nbsp;
+But ere we had sailed a couple of hundred yards, Wynne insisted
+on our stopping to sketch the White House, at Whitlingham, which,
+with the trees on the hill, the wood-shaded reach of river, and
+the huge brown sails of the wherries, formed a picture we might
+well wish to carry away.&nbsp; Wynne often stopped in this way,
+to the intense disgust of our man, who liked to make his passages
+quickly, and had no sympathy with artistic amusements.</p>
+<p>The dyke leading out of the river by the White House is a
+regular harbour for pike, which is continually restocked from the
+river.&nbsp; It is private property, but just at the mouth of the
+dyke, in the navigable river, is a good spot.&nbsp; At least
+three hundred pike were taken here last winter by Norwich
+artisans.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;What graceful craft these wherries, as you call them,
+are!&rdquo; remarked Wynne, as he rapidly sketched the
+high-peaked sail of one which was slowly beating to windward or
+&ldquo;turning,&rdquo; as the vernacular hath it, up the narrow
+river.</p>
+<p>
+<a href="images/p30a.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"A Norfolk Wherry"
+title=
+"A Norfolk Wherry"
+src="images/p30a.jpg" />
+</a>And he was quite right.&nbsp; There is not a line <a
+name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>that is not
+graceful about a Norfolk wherry.&nbsp; She has a long low hull
+with a rising sheer to stem and stern, which are both
+pointed.&nbsp; She has a tall and massive mast supporting a
+single large sail which is without a boom, but has a very long
+gaff launching out boldly at an angle of forty-five
+degrees.&nbsp; The curve of the brown or black sail from the
+lofty peak to the sheet is on all points of sailing a curve of
+beauty.&nbsp; The wherries are trading crafts carrying from
+twenty to fifty tons of cargo.&nbsp; They are manned generally by
+one man, who sometimes has the aid of his wife or children.&nbsp;
+They are nearly as fast as yachts, sail closer to the wind, and
+are wonderfully handy.&nbsp; The mast is weighted at the keel
+with one or two tons of lead, and is so well balanced that a lad
+can lower or raise it with the greatest ease, when it is
+necessary to pass under a bridge.&nbsp; Wherries are the most
+conspicuous objects in a Norfolk broad landscape, and are in
+sight for miles, as they follow the winding courses of the
+rivers, often nothing but the sail visible above the green
+marsh.</p>
+<p>Very many of these wherries have been converted into sailing
+house boats or pleasure barges, and so constitute most admirable
+floating homes for those who like cruising with greater comfort
+than small yachts can give.</p>
+<p>It was an hour before we got under way again, and when, after
+sailing down the long straight reach by Whitlingham, we came in
+sight of the eminence known as Postwick Grove, Wynne wished to
+land in order that <a name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+32</span>he might see the view from the top.&nbsp; The man burst
+into open grumbling, so we asked him if the trip were undertaken
+for his pleasure or ours, and on his reluctantly admitting that
+it was for ours, we told him it was our pleasure to do as we
+liked, and he resigned himself to his fate.&nbsp; The watermen on
+these rivers are very civil, but they look with disfavour upon
+anything which interferes with actual sailing.</p>
+<p>Well, the view from Postwick was worth seeing.&nbsp; The
+curving reaches of the river, animated with yachts, wherries, and
+boats, lay beneath us, and the green marshes were bounded by the
+woods of Thorpe, Whitlingham, and Bramerton, while the ruined
+church of Whitlingham stood boldly on the brow of the opposite
+hill.</p>
+<p>Under way again, we presently reached Bramerton, where the
+&ldquo;Wood&rsquo;s End&rdquo; public-house offers good cheer to
+the wherryman and boating-man.</p>
+<p>The pleasure-steamers which run between Norwich and Yarmouth
+afford a quick but less pleasant way of seeing the river, and
+stop at Bramerton nearly every day in the week.</p>
+<p>Now the higher ground falls away from the river on each side
+of us, and the belt of marshes widens, the river is higher than
+the surface of the land, and the water is lifted out of the many
+drains and dykes by means of turbine wheels, worked by the
+windmills which form such conspicuous objects in the landscape,
+and by more pretentious steam drainage mills.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page33"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 33</span>
+<a href="images/p33.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"On the Yare, at Bramerton"
+title=
+"On the Yare, at Bramerton"
+src="images/p33.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+35</span>Surlingham Ferry, 6 miles by river from Norwich, next
+came into view.&nbsp; The house, with its picturesque gables,
+lies in the shadow of a group of fine trees.&nbsp; A horse and
+cart was being ferried across on the huge raft as we approached,
+and the chain was only just dropped in time for us to pass.</p>
+<p>There is a good inn at the Ferry, with limited but comfortable
+staying accommodation; and excellent roach fishing is often
+obtainable.&nbsp; The shore above the Ferry on the same side is
+suitable for mooring yachts to, as there is a fair depth of water
+close to the bank.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;What numbers of boats there are with people
+fishing?&rdquo; said Wynne.&nbsp; &ldquo;Do they all catch
+anything?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Oh, yes, any quantity, as far as number goes, of roach,
+and bream, and some good fish too, but the larger fish are caught
+in the deeper water, lower down.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Coldham Hall is the next fishing station of importance.&nbsp;
+There is a good inn there, and plenty of boats for hire at a
+cheap rate.&nbsp; Fishing and other boats can also be obtained at
+Messrs. H. Flowers and Co.&rsquo;s new boating station, where
+yachts can be moored and laid up.&nbsp; As the railway station
+(Brundall) is close to it, it is very convenient for
+anglers.&nbsp; The mooring places at Brundall and Coldham Hall
+are not many, as the banks are very shoal.&nbsp; In the reach
+between Brundall and Coldham Hall only the middle third of the
+river is navigable for yachts; and the same may be said of the
+long reach below Coldham Hall.&nbsp; We could see <a
+name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>half-a-dozen
+fishing boats under the lee of the point above the station.&nbsp;
+It seems a favourite place, for I never passed it without seeing
+fishermen there.&nbsp; But as the man had to sail the yacht round
+the great curve of the river, we took a short cut across
+Surlingham Broad in the jolly.</p>
+<p>This Broad lies within a horse-shoe bend of the river, and has
+a navigable channel across it.&nbsp; It is not deep enough,
+however, for yachts or laden wherries.&nbsp; The Broad is largely
+affected by the tide, which sometimes leaves its shallows
+exposed.&nbsp; The river, as I should have said, is tidal up to
+Norwich, and the force of the tide increases with every deepening
+of Yarmouth Haven.&nbsp; We rowed up the dyke which leads on to
+the Broad, a small sheet of water, overgrown with weeds and very
+shallow, but a capital nursery for fish and fowl.&nbsp; The
+fishing upon it is preserved.&nbsp; Rowing across it, we entered
+another dyke, and emerged into the river again, and caught up the
+yacht.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p36.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"On Rockland Broad"
+title=
+"On Rockland Broad"
+src="images/p36.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Snipe abound on the marshes here, and their drumming can
+always be heard in the early summer.&nbsp; The flat, far-reaching
+marshes glowed with a thousand tints of flower and grass, and the
+iris gleamed brightly in the lush margins of the river.&nbsp; We
+sailed quietly on, down the curving reaches of the widening
+river, watching the slow-seeming flight of the heron, the splash
+of fish, the bending reeds, and the occasional boat-loads of
+anglers, until we came to the mouth of a dyke, about a mile long,
+up which we again rowed in the jolly, to explore <a
+name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>Rockland
+Broad, where the open water is much more extensive than at
+Surlingham.&nbsp; Here there are several eel-fishers&rsquo;
+floating abodes, Noah&rsquo;s-ark-like structures, with nets and
+&ldquo;liggers&rdquo; dangling about them.&nbsp; The fishing and
+shooting on the Broad are, at present, open to all.</p>
+<p>This Broad is also much affected by the tide, as,
+notwithstanding its distance from the river, there are numerous
+connecting dykes permitting easy flow and re-flow of water.</p>
+<p>Back in the yacht again, we reached Buckenham Ferry (ten and a
+half miles), a favourite angling rendezvous, with a railway
+station of the same name close by.&nbsp; A long row of trees on
+the left bank is the cause of daily trouble to wherrymen and
+sailormen, as it shuts off the wind.&nbsp; The man who plants
+trees by the side of a navigable river, where the navigation
+depends upon the wind, is the very reverse of a benefactor to
+mankind, and only selfishness or thoughtlessness can permit such
+an act.</p>
+<p>There is fair mooring for yachts just below the Inn, on the
+same side, but they must be kept well off the shore by poles, or
+as the tide ebbs they will strand and perhaps fall over.&nbsp;
+The Ferry Inn is noted for its comfort; and its limited staying
+accommodation is good.&nbsp; The fishing is very good both up and
+down the river, and there are good boats for hire for fishing
+purposes.</p>
+<p>The river now becomes very wide and deep, and the shoals near
+the banks, which abound in the higher <a name="page38"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 38</span>reaches, are not so frequent.&nbsp; I
+would call the especial attention of the river authorities to the
+disgraceful state of the river as far as Buckenham Ferry.&nbsp;
+Each year the shoals and weeds increase, and the channel narrows,
+until in some places not more than a third of the river-width is
+available for the navigation.&nbsp; The natural consequence will
+be that the navigation must gradually cease to be made use of, as
+it becomes a matter of difficulty, and the railway will take the
+trade, which might be kept to the river if a more energetic care
+of the navigable stream were taken.&nbsp; This is a most serious
+matter, and ought to be attended to.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p38.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Langley Dyke"
+title=
+"Langley Dyke"
+src="images/p38.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>Next is
+Langley Dyke, near which are the reaches of the river where the
+principal regattas are held, and by the river side is Cantley Red
+House (fourteen miles).&nbsp; Cantley railway station is very
+close to the river, and as the water is deep close to the bank,
+and there is some fairly firm ground, this is a favourite
+yachting station, with good mooring to the banks.&nbsp;
+Comfortable quarters may be had at the Red House, and the fishing
+is good all about.&nbsp; A little lower down, on the same side of
+the river, is another house, &ldquo;Peart&rsquo;s,&rdquo; where
+one may obtain comfortable accommodation, and a
+&ldquo;dock&rdquo; where small boats may be safely left.</p>
+<p>We delayed so long on our way that the wind was falling, as it
+usually does towards five o&rsquo;clock on summer days: the tide
+had also turned, and we had it against us, so our progress was
+slow.&nbsp; We passed the mouth of the Chet on our right,
+navigable some four miles up to Loddon.&nbsp; Its mouth is marked
+by Hardley Cross, which forms the boundary between the Norwich
+and Yarmouth jurisdictions over the river.&nbsp; We barely made
+headway as a public-house on the left, called Reedham Ferry, was
+reached, and a little lower down we lay to against the
+&ldquo;rond,&rdquo; or bank, and made all snug for the
+night.&nbsp; A little further is Reedham village (eighteen
+miles), which is picturesquely situated on high ground on the
+north bank of the river.&nbsp; The railway station is close by,
+and is the junction between the Yarmouth, Lowestoft, and Norwich
+lines.&nbsp; There is staying accommodation <a
+name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>to be had at
+Reedham.&nbsp; Yachts can be moored against the south bank above
+the bridge, but should not be left unguarded, as the tide runs
+strong, and wherries tacking through the bridge often jam up
+against the bank.</p>
+<p>
+<a href="images/p40.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Roach"
+title=
+"Roach"
+src="images/p40.jpg" />
+</a>The stove was soon alight, and the kettle on, while we walked
+to the village for eggs and milk.&nbsp; As the gloaming deepened,
+Wynne grew poetical over the scene of wide space there was about
+us, filled then with an orange glow from the west, while the
+swallows skimmed the river, and struck red drops of spray from
+the surface.&nbsp; Then when the awning was spread over the stern
+sheets, and the lamp lit up the snug cabin, Wynne smoked
+contentedly, to the envy of the writer, who cannot smoke; and it
+was later than it ought to have been ere we lay down in our
+respective bunks, and were lulled to sleep by the ripple of the
+water against the planks.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page41"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 41</span>
+<a href="images/p41.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"St. Nicholas&rsquo; Church, Great Yarmouth"
+title=
+"St. Nicholas&rsquo; Church, Great Yarmouth"
+src="images/p41.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page43"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 43</span>
+<a href="images/hp43.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative Chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative Chapter header"
+src="images/hp43.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER III.<br />
+REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc43.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc43.jpg" />
+</a>The next morning we were up betimes to take the last of the
+ebb down to Yarmouth, and catch the tide up the Bure.&nbsp; As
+there was a fresh breeze from the east, we had to tack nearly the
+whole of the way.</p>
+<p>At Reedham there is a swing bridge, over which the railway
+passes, and if the wind is foul it is always a difficult matter
+to sail through, particularly if the tide be against you.&nbsp;
+On the present occasion we had the tide with us; therefore, on
+reaching the opening of the bridge, we could shoot the yacht up
+into the wind, and carry her way on until through, when her head
+was paid off on the proper tack.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I tell you what, these Norfolk waters are capital
+places to learn to steer in.&nbsp; An inch either way, and we
+should have torn our sail against the bridge.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, and what with getting the utmost on every <a
+name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>tack, without
+going ashore, shaving wherries by a yard or two, and watching for
+every puff as it comes over the grasses on the marsh, so as to
+make the most of it, there is more fun in sailing here than on
+more open waters.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Just below the bridge is the <i>New Cut</i>, a perfectly
+straight canal, three miles long, connecting the Yare with the
+Waveney, and so saving a round of some eighteen miles, which
+would otherwise be necessary to get from the one river to the
+other, as a reference to the map will show.</p>
+<p>Now came a steady beat for several miles, until we reached the
+Berney Arms (on the right is the mouth of the river Waveney),
+when Breydon water opened out before us, with Yarmouth in the
+distance.&nbsp; When the tide is in, this is a remarkable sheet
+of water, four and a-half miles long by a mile broad.&nbsp; There
+are mud flats on either side of the wide channel, where herons
+and sea-fowl greatly congregate.&nbsp; The strong wind against
+the tide raises a respectable sea, and the tacks being longer we
+made rapid progress, and the motion was exhilarating.&nbsp; A
+sail across Breydon in a strong wind, is a thing I always
+consider a great treat.&nbsp; The channel is marked out by stout
+posts at intervals of two hundred yards or thereabouts, but it is
+not safe to sail too close to all these posts unless the tide be
+high, as the shoals stretch out beyond them, and, in default of
+local knowledge, it is best to give them a wide berth.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page45"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 45</span>
+<a href="images/p45.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Quay, Great Yarmouth"
+title=
+"The Quay, Great Yarmouth"
+src="images/p45.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>The
+spires of Yarmouth grow more distinct, and at last we arrived at
+its quays, just as the tide was on the turn.&nbsp; We made fast
+alongside a wherry moored to the quay, and while our man, with
+the assistance of one of the loiterers on the quay, lowered the
+mast, and quanted the yacht up the narrow mouth of the Bure and
+under two bridges, we took a stroll about the quays, the quaint
+&ldquo;rows&rdquo; and streets of the old part of the town, and
+had a peep at the splendid church.</p>
+<p>The ebb tide runs very strongly, and, to avoid being carried
+against the bridge which spans the contracted harbour, it is
+prudent for the stranger to have an anchor in readiness.&nbsp;
+The public quays are on the north side next the town, and a berth
+alongside a wherry or other yacht can be chosen.&nbsp; There are
+private moorings laid down alongside the south shore off
+&ldquo;Cobholm Island,&rdquo; and it is customary, in case of
+need, to bring up to one of these, if vacant; but a yacht must
+not be moored there, or alongside another yacht there, without
+permission.&nbsp; If the visitor is nervous or inexperienced, he
+can avail himself of the services of one of the watermen loafing
+about the quays, to help him through the fixed bridges which
+block the entrance to the river Bure, which here enters the
+harbour.</p>
+<p>
+<a href="images/p48.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Bream"
+title=
+"Bream"
+src="images/p48.jpg" />
+</a>The river bends to the south at an acute angle with its
+former course, and for about three miles runs very close to, and
+almost parallel with the sea.&nbsp; It is interesting to row past
+the wharves and quays, where many <a name="page48"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 48</span>quaint and picturesque bits present
+themselves, but on account of the rapid flow of the tide, it is
+not a part of the river much frequented by the river yachts.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page49"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 49</span>
+<a href="images/p49.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A &ldquo;row&rdquo;, Great Yarmouth"
+title=
+"A &ldquo;row&rdquo;, Great Yarmouth"
+src="images/p49.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>As Yarmouth has guide-books all to itself, it is not necessary
+here to expatiate upon its attractions.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page51"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 51</span>
+<a href="images/hp51.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp51.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER IV.<br />
+<span class="smcap">yarmouth to acle</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc51.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc51.jpg" />
+</a>On going back to the yacht, we found that she was moored in
+the North River, or Bure, having been quanted under the two fixed
+bridges, and the mast was being slowly raised.&nbsp; The big pole
+masts of these river yachts are very heavy and unwieldy, and I am
+always glad when the operation of lowering and raising them again
+is safely over.&nbsp; Sometimes they have lead weights
+permanently fixed to the heel of the mast (which latter swings in
+a tabernacle), but generally, lumps of ballast have to be shifted
+and hooked on, a troublesome &ldquo;pinch-finger&rdquo; business
+which I avoid in my own yacht by using a tackle and blocks.</p>
+<p>Of course the wind was fair, as our course up the Bure lies
+north for a mile or two, and then due west as far as Acle; and it
+is well when it is fair, for the next twelve miles are very
+uninteresting.&nbsp; There is nothing whatever <a
+name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 52</span>to see,
+except eel sets and boats.&nbsp; These Noah&rsquo;s-ark-like
+craft are generally made out of old sea boats, with a hut built
+on them.&nbsp; They are shoved a little way up a dyke, out of the
+way of wherries, and the eel net is stretched across the stream,
+waiting for the eels, in their annual migrations seawards, to
+swim into it.&nbsp; Those two wooden buoys, one on each side of
+the river, mark its position.</p>
+<p>Almost at our first starting, we got aground; hard and fast
+too, for the shoals are frequent hereabout.&nbsp; We waited for
+the tide to float us off, and to help it we sent a rope ashore to
+a man on the bank.&nbsp; The rope was not quite long enough, and
+Wynne undertook to bend another to it.&nbsp; The man set all his
+weight on it, the knot parted, and the man disappeared on the
+other side of the embankment, where there was, we knew, a deep
+ditch.&nbsp; Presently he reappeared, dripping wet, and in a
+towering passion.&nbsp; He refused to assist us any more, so we
+waited a little longer, and as the tide rose, we were again
+afloat.</p>
+<p>Once round the bend by the Two-mile House we sped away at top
+speed to the westward, with frequent jibes as the river
+bends.&nbsp; The great boom came over with tremendous force, and
+made the yacht quiver again, although we eased it all we could by
+rallying in the sheet.&nbsp; The low, dull banks passed rapidly
+by, the only land-marks being solitary houses, known as the
+three-mile, four-mile, five-mile, six-mile, and seven-mile
+houses.&nbsp; Then we came to Stokesby Ferry, where there is a
+group <a name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>of
+houses, which would make a picture, and an inn, where there is
+tolerable accommodation, called the Ferry House.&nbsp; Then, on
+the right, are some sluices, marking the entrance to the
+&ldquo;Muck Fleet,&rdquo; a shallow, muddy dyke, only navigable
+for small boats, which leads to the fine group of Broads known as
+Ormesby and Filby Broads.&nbsp; Of these we shall have something
+to say afterwards.&nbsp; A separate excursion has to be made to
+them, as they do not come within the round of a yachting trip,
+unless you drag your jolly over the sluices, and row the
+four-miles-long Muck Fleet.&nbsp; Having once tried this
+experiment, I cannot recommend others to do it.</p>
+<p>A mile and a half further on, and we came to Acle bridge,
+twelve miles from Yarmouth.&nbsp; Here is a fixed bridge, where
+the mast has to be lowered.&nbsp; When we got through this we
+stopped for dinner, and then, although we might have sailed up to
+Wroxham with the wind before dark, we were fated to spend the
+night here, in consequence of a freak of Wynne&rsquo;s.&nbsp; In
+the exuberance of his spirits, he attempted to jump a wide dyke,
+using the quant as a leaping-pole.&nbsp; As a matter of course,
+the pole sank deep into the mud, and when it attained an upright
+position, it refused to depart from it, and so checked Wynne in
+mid-air.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Whatever is going to happen now?&rdquo; he exclaimed,
+and after a frantic gymnastic exercise on the top of the quant,
+it slowly bent, and finally broke, depositing Wynne on his back
+in the middle of the dyke.</p>
+<p><a name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>We
+fairly shrieked with laughter, and, as Wynne said, it served him
+right, for laughing as he did at the man rolling into the ditch,
+when the rope gave way.</p>
+<p>As we had to get a new quant from Yarmouth, we had to wait
+here until the morning, and amuse ourselves with fishing for
+bream, of which large quantities may be caught here, and of good
+weight.&nbsp; Acle is a capital fishing station, and is now
+accessible from Norwich by the new line to Yarmouth, branching
+off at Brundall.&nbsp; Acle is a charming village, and offers
+many residential facilities to those who are fond of country life
+and aquatic amusements.&nbsp; It is within easy reach of all the
+best Broads, lying on the rivers Bure and Thurne, and not far by
+water to Yarmouth.&nbsp; There are three good inns&mdash;the
+&ldquo;King&rsquo;s Head,&rdquo; the &ldquo;Queen&rsquo;s
+Head,&rdquo; and the &ldquo;Angel.&rdquo;&nbsp; The most
+convenient is the one by Acle bridge (the &ldquo;Angel&rdquo;),
+kept by Mr. Rose, who well understands and can supply the needs
+of yachting men and anglers.&nbsp; There is staying accommodation
+at the inn, a wagonnette to meet the trains, fishing boats to
+let, and every attention from the host.&nbsp; As there is good
+mooring to both banks, especially above the bridge, and the river
+is wide and deep, Acle is rapidly becoming a favourite yachting
+and angling station.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p55.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"St. Benet&rsquo;s Abbey"
+title=
+"St. Benet&rsquo;s Abbey"
+src="images/p55.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Owing to the wide breadth of marsh there is a true wind for
+sailing, and the reaches above Acle to Thurnemouth are wider and
+finer than any other parts of the Bure.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page57"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 57</span>
+<a href="images/hp57.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp57.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER V.<br />
+<span class="smcap">acle to wroxham</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc57.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc57.jpg" />
+</a>The wind, on the next morning, was from the north-west, a
+head wind for us, and there was little of it; so little, indeed,
+that we could not stem the tide, and had to quant for three
+miles.&nbsp; Then we came to the mouth of the river Thurne,
+leading to Hickling Broad, up which we intended to sail on our
+return from Wroxham.&nbsp; The Bure turns off sharply to the
+west, and as the wind gradually gained in strength, we were able
+to dispense with the unwelcome labour of quanting.</p>
+<p>The first noteworthy spot that we came to was St.
+Benet&rsquo;s Abbey, situated on the north bank of the
+river.&nbsp; Once upon a time it must have been a mighty
+building, covering much ground, as its scattered ruins
+testify.&nbsp; Now nought reminds us of its founder, sensible
+King Canute, but a fine archway, with some contiguous walls, upon
+which a windmill has been erected, but which is <a
+name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>now itself in
+ruins, and two massive parallel walls, standing about two hundred
+yards to the eastward; also, there are arched doorways, and
+strong walls in the house by the riverside, whose cool recesses
+speak of ancient days.&nbsp; This house was once a public-house;
+we landed to get a drink of buttermilk, and lay in a store of
+eggs and butter.&nbsp; We also climbed to the top of the ruined
+arch, whence a wide prospect is visible, and one may count a
+goodly number of churches.</p>
+<p>Opposite the ruins is a dyke, down which a wherry turned.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Where does that lead to?&rdquo; asked Wynne.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;To South Walsham Broad, which is a mile and a half down
+it; and, although wherries can sail down, this boat, which draws
+about five feet six inches, cannot.&nbsp; Still, we can go down
+in the jolly, or, if you like, stay here, and fish for
+perch.&nbsp; This is a noted spot, because there is a hard
+gravelly bottom, and, by the way, we might have stopped at Thurne
+mouth, which is a good place for pike.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I like exploring these dykes, so I vote we go down to
+the Broad.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p58a.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Cottage, South Walsham Broad"
+title=
+"Cottage, South Walsham Broad"
+src="images/p58a.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>So we started, and overtook the wherry, which had been
+aground, and she gave us a tow down.&nbsp; The Broad, which was
+formerly one sheet of water, has, by the growth of reeds and
+plants, been divided into two portions.&nbsp; There was nothing
+particular to be seen in the first one; but on rowing into the
+further Broad, we saw <a name="page59"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 59</span>a cottage on the right bank, which,
+with its long, low thatch, deep eaves, its honeysuckles and
+roses, its trees and its landing-place, formed a most tempting
+object for a sketch, and one the artist would do well to
+seek.&nbsp; The Broad is private, save for the navigation across
+one part of it to South Walsham, and the fishing is
+preserved.&nbsp; The old course of the river formerly made a
+horse-shoe bend down towards South Walsham, and the present
+straight channel by the Abbey ruins is an artificial cut.&nbsp;
+The site of the Abbey is an island of solid ground in the midst
+of a great extent of marsh.&nbsp; When we got back to the boat we
+saw the man fast asleep on the counter, with his rod in the
+river, in tow of a large perch, weighing one pound and a half,
+which we secured.</p>
+<p>About a mile further, on the right hand, as we ascend the
+river, is the mouth of the river Ant, leading to Barton Broad and
+Statham, of which more anon.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The river is getting uncommonly pretty,&rdquo; said
+Wynne, &ldquo;and this slow tacking enables me to see it to
+advantage, eh!&nbsp; How close we steer to the fishing boats!
+and, pray tell me, why do fishermen in Norfolk wear such
+extraordinary hats!&nbsp; Here is another dyke.&nbsp; Can we sail
+down it?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;If we only drew four feet of water, we could go on to
+Ranworth Broad.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Then, on my next cruise here, I will get a yacht that
+does not draw more than a wherry does.&nbsp; It is absurd to have
+such deep draught yachts where there are so many shallows.&nbsp;
+Let us row down.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+60</span>Ranworth Broad is a very pretty Broad, but grown up so
+that it is divided into two.&nbsp; The eastern half is navigable
+to the village of Ranworth, but otherwise private, as is the
+other portion of the Broad.&nbsp; This is very strictly
+preserved, on account of the wild fowl which frequent it.&nbsp;
+It is a favourite fishing place, although permission has first to
+be obtained from the owner, who, however, cannot be expected to
+give leave indiscriminately.&nbsp; It is not worth while seeking
+to fish in private waters in this district, for other fish than
+pike, seeing that the free fishing in the rivers is as good as
+any one could wish for.&nbsp; From the eastern part of the Broad,
+a very pretty picture, with the church in the background, on a
+wooded height, is visible.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p60.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Horning Village"
+title=
+"Horning Village"
+src="images/p60.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Then to Horning Ferry, where, as we approached, a horse and
+cart were being ferried across, and we had to <a
+name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>lie to for a
+few minutes, until the huge raft was safely across, and the chain
+lowered.&nbsp; The public-house at the ferry is a very
+comfortable one, with a nice sitting-room and garden in front,
+and is a capital place to make one&rsquo;s head-quarters.&nbsp;
+It is about nine miles drive from Norwich, and four from Wroxham
+railway station.&nbsp; A little further on is Horning village, a
+picturesque group of houses, straggling along the river bank,
+with a large windmill on the hill behind, making a good
+picture.&nbsp; Here our ears were greeted with the song which,
+for generations past, the small children of the village have
+chanted to passing yachts&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Ho! John Barleycorn: Ho! John
+Barleycorn,<br />
+All day long I raise my song<br />
+To old John Barleycorn.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>That is all.&nbsp; It is simple and effective, and extracts
+coins from too easily pleased holiday-makers.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p60a.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Ranworth Church"
+title=
+"Ranworth Church"
+src="images/p60a.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The river turns to the left, at right angles to its former
+course, as it passes the village, and on the north bank is a
+reedy sheet of water, called Hoveton Little Broad, where there is
+a small colony of the black-headed gulls.&nbsp; On the south side
+is a small, but pretty Broad, called the Decoy Broad.&nbsp; Then
+the river turns still more sharply to the left, and we sailed due
+south, after having come due north by Horning.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;What a number of anglers there are!&rdquo; said Wynne,
+&ldquo;and the singular thing is, that they always seem to be
+catching fish.&mdash;How many have you caught?&rdquo; he called
+out to two fishermen in a boat.</p>
+<p><a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+62</span>&ldquo;About six stone, sir,&rdquo; was the reply;
+&ldquo;but we have been at it since daylight, and they bite very
+slow.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I must say I think Norfolk a very favoured county, with
+all these splendid rivers and free fishing; and one place seems
+as good as another.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, as long as you pick deepish water, and get under a
+lee.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Do they groundbait the place where they
+fish?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Not before they come, but while fishing they throw in a
+good deal of meal, mixed with water and clay.&nbsp; If they were
+to groundbait one or two suitable places on both sides of the
+river, so as to be sure of getting a lee, for a day or two before
+they fish, they ought to get even more than they do now.&nbsp;
+Here is a boat-load trailing for jack.&nbsp; Ask how many they
+have caught.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Wynne did so, and the reply was, &ldquo;Fifteen, but all
+small: they run from two pounds up to seven.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;People here either fish for pike with a live bait or
+trail with a spoon.&nbsp; You rarely see anybody spinning by
+casting, or even using a dead bait on a spinning flight.&nbsp;
+Now, I know that in the hands of one or two people, a paternoster
+has proved very deadly.&nbsp; With three large minnows on your
+tackle, and roving about close to the bank, you may get many pike
+and perch.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I&rsquo;ll try it in the morning before
+breakfast,&rdquo; said Wynne.</p>
+<p>In another mile the river again turns westward.&nbsp; On the
+north is a very large Broad, called Hoveton Great <a
+name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>Broad, whence
+comes the clangour of a large colony of black-headed gulls.&nbsp;
+The Broad is not navigable for anything of greater draught than a
+small sailing boat; and now all access to it has been barred by
+chains across the dykes, and it is strictly preserved, chiefly in
+consequence, it is said, of the disturbance of the gulls by
+visitors.&nbsp; The gulls flew, screaming, overhead, in a white
+cloud, so that the air seemed filled with them, and the
+half-grown young ones floated on the water, as lightly as
+thistle-down.&nbsp; Although this colony is nothing like so large
+as the famous one at Scoulton Mere, near Hingham, in Norfolk, yet
+it is extremely interesting, and particularly when the eggs are
+being hatched off, and the little fluffy brown balls, which
+represent the young birds, are running and creeping about the
+reeds and grasses, and swimming in and out of the water-divided
+tussocks.&nbsp; Air and water and grasses seem thrilling with
+abundant life, and the ear is deafened with abundant noise; a
+noise, however, which, discordant as it is, has for a naturalist
+the music of the nightingale.&nbsp; The water is very shallow at
+the east end, where the gulls are, but the soft mud is of an
+exceeding great depth.</p>
+<p>Some years ago the American weed, <i>Anacharis
+alsinastrum</i>, that pest of our inland waters, so completely
+filled this Broad, that a duck could walk upon the surface.&nbsp;
+It then suddenly decayed, at the same time poisoning the fish so
+that they died by thousands.&nbsp; Since this time the Broad has
+been comparatively free from it.</p>
+<p><a name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>During
+Wynne&rsquo;s visit the Broad was still open, and we visited it
+in the jolly.&nbsp; After rowing about for some time, we turned
+to go back to the yacht, and Wynne said, &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t see
+the sails of the yacht anywhere.&nbsp; Where can she have
+disappeared to?&nbsp; I know that the river is over there,
+because there is the sail of a wherry over the reeds, but there
+is no channel through the reeds, and it is no use your rowing
+that way.&nbsp; You have lost your way, my boy.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We only laughed at him and rowed on.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I tell you that there is no way into the river
+here.&nbsp; Oh, yes, there is; I beg your pardon, but I should
+have rowed about until doomsday before I found the way
+off.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;And you couldn&rsquo;t have landed, for I don&rsquo;t
+think there is a bit of solid ground all round the Broad.&nbsp;
+But where is the yacht?&rdquo;&nbsp; For there was no sign of
+her.</p>
+<p>The wide opening on the opposite side of the river suggested
+that perhaps the man had taken her on to Salhouse Broad.&nbsp; So
+we rowed on, disturbing a kingfisher, which was perched on a
+bullrush, and there was a picture.&nbsp; Wynne cried,
+&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Oh</span>!&rdquo; with delight, and,
+although I have seen the like so many times, the scene is always
+fresh in its beauty.&nbsp; On the placid bosom of the small lake
+the yacht lay motionless, while a pair of swans, with their brood
+of cygnets, swam near her.&nbsp; Outside the ever-present
+boundary of green reeds, was a darker circle of trees, and crowds
+of yellow lilies made a bright bit of colour in the
+foreground.&nbsp; On the further <a name="page65"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 65</span>shore was a thatched boat-house, and
+behind it a wooded bank.&nbsp; The thud of the jolly against the
+yacht&rsquo;s side aroused a wild duck; a shoal of rudd broke the
+still surface, as they sprang from a pursuing pike, and the
+red-and-white cows, which had pushed through the reeds to drink,
+stood looking at us contemplatively.</p>
+<p>We dropped the anchor, and got tea ready, and Wynne worked
+hard at a water-colour sketch, brush in one hand, bread and
+butter in the other, palate, plate, and sketch-block mixed up,
+and the brush going as often into his teacup as into the mug of
+water.</p>
+<p>After tea, we landed, and walked into the long and straggling
+village of Salhouse, in search of bread and fresh meat, and on
+our return, climbed to the top of the bank, whence a fair
+prospect met our eyes.&nbsp; At our feet were Salhouse Broad, and
+the smaller Broad next to it, which I call Salhouse Little Broad,
+a lakelet covered with water lilies; outside these, the sinuous
+river, doubling upon itself, as though loth to leave so pleasant
+a land; Hoveton Broad to the right, and Wroxham Broad to the
+left; many white sails flitting about on the latter, and more
+yachts coming slowly up the river.</p>
+<p>There is a navigation across Salhouse Broad to Salhouse
+Staithe, but the present owner of the Broad discourages sailing
+upon it, and the reader is advised not to anchor or moor
+there.&nbsp; The old times when one could come and go upon the
+Broads as a matter of apparent right are now past.</p>
+<p><a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>We went
+to Girling&rsquo;s farm, close by, to get milk, and eggs, and
+butter, and I may mention that Mr. Girling has comfortable rooms
+to let, suitable for a family, whilst the situation is
+unsurpassed for prettiness.</p>
+<p>We quanted off the Broad, and found just sufficient air moving
+on the river to take us gently on.&nbsp; We had a little surprise
+in store for Wynne.&nbsp; As we came up to Wroxham Broad, I asked
+him to reach me something out of the cabin.&nbsp; When he was
+safe inside, I put the helm up, and we slipped through the
+&lsquo;gatway&rsquo; into the Broad.&nbsp; When Wynne came out of
+the cabin, instead of the river banks, he saw the wide-stretching
+Broad, the Queen of the Broads, for her beauty, size, and depth
+of water combined.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;This is lovely.&nbsp; I had no idea that we had left
+the river.&nbsp; What a string of fishing boats!&nbsp; Are they
+having a match?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes.&nbsp; Angling matches are very favourite
+amusements here, and the prizes are sometimes valuable, and
+sometimes very miscellaneous in their nature.&nbsp; They are very
+sociable, well-conducted gatherings, and I think the Norfolk
+anglers would meet with old Izaak&rsquo;s approbation, as being
+honest and peaceable men.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;They all look very happy.&nbsp; But, tell me, are there
+always so many yachts here as there are to-day?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Not quite.&nbsp; The fact is, there is a regatta of the
+Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club here to-morrow, and it is always a
+genuine water frolic.&nbsp; This is a favourite <a
+name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>place at all
+times; Wroxham is only seven miles by rail from Norwich, and the
+Broad is only a mile and a half from Wroxham by water.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We drifted across to the other side of the Broad, and there
+dropped our anchor, and made all snug.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p67.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Horning Ferry"
+title=
+"Horning Ferry"
+src="images/p67.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>It was a lovely evening, and yacht after yacht came upon the
+Broad, and anchored; anchoring, by the way, meaning, in the
+majority of cases, dropping some pigs of ballast overboard, at
+the end of a rope, for the mud is so soft that an ordinary anchor
+would drag through it.&nbsp; We visited our friends on various
+yachts, and then the moon shone so brightly out of a cloudless
+sky, that, late as it was, we did not turn in for a long time,
+but floated about in the boat, and yarned about old times, until
+it was very late indeed.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page68"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 68</span>
+<a href="images/hp68.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp68.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER VI.<br />
+<span class="smcap">wroxham broad</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc68.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc68.jpg" />
+</a>I had scarcely closed my eyes, it seemed to me, ere I was
+awakened by Wynne moving about.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;What are you up to?&rdquo; I cried.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I am going to paternoster for perch, and I&rsquo;ll
+take the casting-net to get some small fry.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Oh, dear! why can&rsquo;t you wait until the
+morning?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It is morning.&nbsp; It is four o&rsquo;clock and broad
+daylight.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Then go, and don&rsquo;t come back until breakfast
+time.&rdquo;&nbsp; And I drew the curtains over the windows, and
+tried to think it was quite dark, and to get to sleep again.</p>
+<p>On awaking I heard the sound of a piano.&nbsp; My first
+thought was, &ldquo;Where am I?&rdquo;&nbsp; I found that I was
+on the boat, sure enough, and it was seven o&rsquo;clock.&nbsp;
+There was no more sleep for me, for a wherry, fitted up as a
+yacht, was lying near, and her crew had not only got a <a
+name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 69</span>piano on
+board, but played upon it at seven o&rsquo;clock in the
+morning.&nbsp; It is an excellent plan to rig up a wherry in this
+way for a cruise, as good accommodation for a large party is
+secured, and the interior can be well divided into several
+sleeping-rooms.&nbsp; The presence of ladies aboard the wherry,
+and up so early, was rather a nuisance, as one had to row away
+for one&rsquo;s dip.&nbsp; Up to eight o&rsquo;clock, the Broad
+is generally sacred to the men, who can take their plunge
+overboard with safety.</p>
+<p>Presently Wynne came back.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, what have you caught?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Two jack, about five pounds each, and three perch,
+about a pound each.&nbsp; If I could have got some minnows I
+should have done better, but the roach I got were too large for
+paternostering, and not lively enough.&nbsp; I got into a row,
+too.&nbsp; I found a bow net set among the weeds, and there were
+three large tench in it.&nbsp; As I took it up to look at it, its
+owner appeared, and slanged me considerably at first; but when he
+cooled down, he got talkative, and told me that the reaches of
+the river by Salhouse and Hoveton Broads are the best for pike,
+but that all the way down to Horning Ferry is good.&nbsp; By the
+way, I saw a lot of boats fishing on the Broad when I set out,
+and they went on to the river when they saw me.&nbsp; The Broad
+is not preserved, is it?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No; but one of the owners, Mr. Chamberlin, levies a tax
+of 2s. 6d. on fishermen, and as it goes to the Norfolk and
+Norwich Hospital, one ought to pay it <a name="page70"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 70</span>willingly.&nbsp; Poor men can&rsquo;t
+pay it, so they fish on the Broad in the early morning, and then
+leave for the river.&nbsp; They walk here from Norwich,
+overnight, and begin to fish before daylight, and as they can get
+a boat at Wroxham for a shilling a day, it is not an expensive
+pastime for them.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I saw some notice boards at Salhouse, but there was so
+much on them, and the letters were so small, that I could not
+read them, but I suppose they were meant to warn people
+off.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, there is unfortunately too great a disposition
+amongst owners to try and close the Broads against the fishing
+public, and even to interfere with the old navigation rights, but
+there are praiseworthy exceptions, and here comes one, the owner
+of this end of Wroxham Broad.&rdquo; <a name="citation70"></a><a
+href="#footnote70" class="citation">[70]</a></p>
+<p><a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>As the
+sun rose higher, so it grew hotter in too great a ratio, and the
+breeze was too light to afford much excitement in the way of
+racing.&nbsp; Still, it was a wonderfully pretty sight, such as
+could be seen on no other English inland water, save Windermere:
+the yachts, too, are very much like the Windermere yachts, but
+carry even more canvas than the latter do.&nbsp; The following
+are the dimensions of a 10-tonner of that time: length on keel,
+25 feet; over all, 34 feet; beam, 10 feet.&nbsp; Ordinary canvas
+would be, mainsail luff, 23 feet; head, 28 feet 6 inches; foot,
+35 feet, and leech, 42 feet; jib, leech, 23 feet; foot, 36 feet;
+and luff, 48 feet, with a topsail yard of 23 feet.&nbsp; For
+racing, these dimensions are largely increased.&nbsp; For fast
+sailing and quick turning to windward, these boats are justly
+celebrated, but the Broads are so rapidly growing shallower, that
+their draught, about five feet, closes many of the Broads to
+them.&nbsp; A much more sensible type of a large boat for <a
+name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>pure comfort
+in cruising (though not for sport in sailing) is one founded on
+the wherry plan, with a large mainsail, and drawing not more than
+three feet of water.&nbsp; For such boats under 10 tons, the
+&ldquo;Una&rdquo; type is the best.&nbsp; Its shallow draught
+would enable it, with the centre-board up, to go anywhere, and
+penetrate into the most charming recesses of this wild country,
+which the deeper yacht can never see.&nbsp; Its beam gives
+safety, and also minimises the inconvenience of the centre-board
+case in the cabin, and a high booby hatch would give
+head-room.&nbsp; The one sail is very handy, and if her owner has
+but ordinary skill and energy, he could sail her alone, and so
+dispense with the expense of keeping a man.&nbsp; Without this
+expense, yachting in these waters is a reasonable and very cheap
+amusement.&nbsp; These remarks are for the benefit of the great
+number of people who have written to me at one time or another,
+to know what facilities for economical boat-sailing and living
+exist in these waters.&nbsp; For fast sailing and ease of
+handling by a <i>skilled</i> person, the present improved type of
+sloop or cutter cannot be surpassed on any waters.</p>
+<p>Well, 10-tonners and 4-tonners, open cutter-rigged
+sailing-boats of a very fast type, canoes with battened sails,
+luggers and boats, and wherries sailed to and fro, and steam
+launches puffed noisily about, and marred the beauty of the
+scene, as well as upset the glasses and dishes of breakfast or
+luncheon by the swell which they caused.&nbsp; The people paid
+very little attention to the <a name="page73"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 73</span>racing, but set themselves heartily
+to enjoy this great water picnic.</p>
+<p>Wynne went ashore, and discovered some pretty woodland vistas,
+with glimpses of the Broad, and the glancing sails between leafy
+boughs of oaks, and under lofty arms of Scotch firs.&nbsp; Also,
+he discovered that at the farm at the lower end of the Broad,
+Mrs. Newman&rsquo;s, there were rooms to let, and that an artist
+friend of his had taken them, so there he stayed for a long time,
+and kept the jolly, in spite of vigorous hails for it.</p>
+<p>Of the adventurous journeys of yachts up to divers Wroxham
+Regattas, of the exploits of elated yachtsmen, and the mishaps of
+careless ones, of the fun and merriment attendant on these annual
+gatherings, the writer has written in another place.&nbsp; At
+present, we must hurry on.</p>
+<p>In the evening we sailed, or rather quanted, up to the
+Bridge.&nbsp; These reaches of the river were lovely in the
+extreme.&nbsp; The clear and brimming river reflected the
+marginal flowers and groups of trees, while acres of marsh shone
+with the yellow iris flowers.&nbsp; But, alas! the woods and the
+sloping fields kept off the wind, and made one wish that the
+<i>upper</i> entrance to the Broad were widened and made
+navigable.</p>
+<p>We came to the Bridge at last, and moored to the bank,
+watching the homeward-bound holiday makers arrive in yachts, and
+boats, and wherries; a goodly number of the latter having
+numerous passengers.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p74.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Belaugh Church"
+title=
+"Belaugh Church"
+src="images/p74.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>Wroxham
+has two decent inns, where good boats and bait may be
+obtained&mdash;Jimpson&rsquo;s (the &ldquo;King&rsquo;s
+Head&rdquo;), and Whittaker&rsquo;s, the former the largest, but
+both comfortable.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page75"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 75</span>
+<a href="images/hp75.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Chapter Header"
+title=
+"Chapter Header"
+src="images/hp75.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER VII.<br />
+<span class="smcap">wroxham to coltishall</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc75.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc75.jpg" />
+</a>The bridge at Wroxham is very narrow and low.&nbsp; The mast,
+of course, had to be lowered, and the yacht quanted under the
+road and railway bridges.&nbsp; A wherry passing under raised her
+mast too soon, and damaged the ornamental vane, which consisted
+of the inevitable figure of a Welsh girl with a high hat and
+holding a bunch of leeks.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;There, I must have a new Welsh girl,&rdquo; said the
+wherryman.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Why is such an emblem chosen in Norfolk, of all
+places?&rdquo; asked Wynne.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Some thirty years ago there was a wherry named after
+the famous Jenny Morgan of the song, and she had such a
+vane.&nbsp; It took the fancy of the wherrymen to such an extent
+that they all adopted it in the course of time.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The river here is very narrow, and Wynne, who was <a
+name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 76</span>steering, put
+the yacht &ldquo;on the putty&rdquo; twice, before he could be
+induced to give up the helm to the man, who professed to know the
+exact depth of every part of the river.&nbsp; The river makes a
+very long loop to the south, just above Wroxham.&nbsp; In this
+loop is Belaugh Broad, said to hold some very large carp, but it
+is preserved.&nbsp; On the neck of the loop, on a high bank,
+stands Belaugh Church, a prominent object for some miles, as you
+follow the river.&nbsp; It is very picturesquely situated, and
+the view from it is characteristic.&nbsp; Close by the church is
+a draw-well, with a pent-house over it, well worth
+sketching.&nbsp; There is a pretty backwater, or old channel of
+the river, near here, called &ldquo;Little Switzerland,&rdquo;
+which is worth rowing up, but unfortunately the owner objects
+even to artists visiting it, and hence it must be considered as
+sacred ground.</p>
+<p>It came on to blow very hard, as we finished the three-mile
+loop of river, half a mile from where we entered it, and as the
+wind was fair, the corners sharp, and the river narrow, we
+lowered the mainsail, and ran up under the jib alone, to
+Coltishall, where we at once made a rush for the butcher&rsquo;s,
+just in time to secure a piece of meat for our dinner to-morrow,
+which, being Sunday, we intended to spend at Coltishall.&nbsp;
+The village is superior to most Norfolk villages, and contains
+some old houses with rounded gables, and a fine church.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p77.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Dyke Near Coltishall"
+title=
+"Dyke Near Coltishall"
+src="images/p77.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The great business of the place is malting, and many men
+labour as maltsters in winter and boat-builders in <a
+name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>summer, so
+that summer is the time to get a boat built at Coltishall, when
+either Allen or Collins will build you one at a reasonable
+rate.</p>
+<p>The fishing is very good in this portion of the river, and
+there are great numbers of jack here, although they run rather
+small.&nbsp; In the spawning season, the bream head up here in
+large numbers, and as there is no close season in Norfolk, many
+anglers follow them up.</p>
+<p>The first lock on this river is just above the village, and on
+the bye-stream stands Horstead mill, a very fine specimen of the
+Norfolk water-mill.&nbsp; It stands upon <a
+name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>arches, and
+the stream runs under it, the wheels, of course, being
+undershot.&nbsp; It makes a very effective picture, seen from
+below, and, in fact, if you row your jolly up the left-hand
+stream, as you go up, you will see very many lovely bits worth
+the painter&rsquo;s attention.&nbsp; I have photographed some of
+them, as I can&rsquo;t sketch, but photographs cannot depict the
+colour.&nbsp; It is in the soft living light of these Norfolk
+scenes that their chief beauty lies, but they cannot be depicted
+without the aid of colour, and only imperfectly then.</p>
+<p>The river is navigable for wherries and yachts drawing but
+little water, right up to Aylsham, some eleven miles further; but
+there are two more locks before reaching Aylsham.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p78.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Ludham Bridge"
+title=
+"Ludham Bridge"
+src="images/p78.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Coltishall is accessible by rail from Norwich, being the next
+station to Wroxham, and lodgings are obtainable there.&nbsp; The
+jack fishing is very good all the way.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page79"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 79</span>
+<a href="images/p79.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"River Bure&mdash;Hautbois"
+title=
+"River Bure&mdash;Hautbois"
+src="images/p79.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page81"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 81</span>
+<a href="images/hp81.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp81.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER VIII.<br />
+<span class="smcap">up the ant, to barton and
+stalham</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc81.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc81.jpg" />
+</a>Wynne had undertaken the office of steward, and so far we had
+fared sumptuously, but as we were tidying up on Monday morning,
+the fact became apparent that the provision lockers were nearly
+empty.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The fact is,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;I thought there
+would be a better chance of buying things, as we went along, than
+there appears to be, for with the exception of butter and eggs,
+we might as well be on the prairies.&nbsp; What shall we
+do?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Now, provisioning is a very perplexing thing, particularly
+when it is for several days, and as I knew that at Norwich
+made-up hampers of provisions for fishing-parties could be
+obtained, we telegraphed for one to be sent to us at Wroxham
+station, and departed in hope, with a light but fair wind.&nbsp;
+We trailed a pike-bait behind, and caught several jack, and two
+or three good <a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+82</span>perch.&nbsp; We were three hours getting to Wroxham, and
+while the mast was being lowered, Wynne went to the station to
+meet a train then coming in.&nbsp; He returned in glee with a
+hamper of good things, and our difficulty was at end.&nbsp; Once
+we spent a Sunday at Wroxham, with nothing procurable to eat but
+biscuits, and once, at Barton, we were obliged to fish for our
+meals.&nbsp; Meat so soon goes bad on board a boat, and one does
+not always care for tinned things.&nbsp; A good wrinkle is to
+have a bottle containing a strong solution of permanganate of
+potash on board, and then a few drops placed in a pint of water
+will make a most efficient deodorising liquid, with which you may
+safely sprinkle the meat, and wash out the lockers.</p>
+<p>As the day advanced, the breeze got up, and by two
+o&rsquo;clock we were at the mouth of the river Ant, ten miles
+from Wroxham.</p>
+<p>As we turned up its narrow and shallow waters, our man
+said,</p>
+<p>&ldquo;We shan&rsquo;t get very far up this river, sir, with a
+craft drawing so much water as this.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, but we can get to Ludham Bridge, and there I have
+arranged for an old lateener to be waiting for us.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>
+<a href="images/p82a.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Woodland Pool&mdash;Irstead"
+title=
+"Woodland Pool&mdash;Irstead"
+src="images/p82a.jpg" />
+</a>We touched the ground several times before we got to the
+bridge, about a mile up, thus showing that a very fine Broad is
+practically closed to the possessor of a large yacht of the usual
+type.&nbsp; We left the yacht below the bridge in charge of the
+man, and Wynne and I <a name="page83"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 83</span>transferred ourselves on board a
+six-ton lateener, very broad and very shallow, with bluff bows; a
+boat sixty years old, if a day, only drawing about two feet of
+water.&nbsp; She had an enormous lateen foresail, and a mizen,
+and she subsequently formed a picturesque object in Wynne&rsquo;s
+sketches.&nbsp; A wherry was coming through the low and narrow
+bridge, and, as the water was high, she had some difficulty in
+doing it.</p>
+<p>The wind was fair for a large portion of the way, and we
+bowled along very fast.&nbsp; Where it was ahead, owing to a bend
+in the river, there was no room to tack, and one of us would jump
+ashore with a line, and tow.&nbsp; The Ant is just like a canal,
+except that it has no tow-path.&nbsp; The fishing in it is
+remarkably good, particularly at Irstead shoals, where there is a
+stretch of water about half a mile long, with an even depth of
+four to five feet, and a firm, level, pebbly bottom, a curiosity
+in this land of boggy streams.&nbsp; This is an excellent spot
+for perch and pike.&nbsp; It is marked by the presence of a
+church on the western bank, and is one of the few places on these
+waters where a person who cannot swim can bathe with safety or
+comfort.&nbsp; The muddy bottom, of course, prohibits
+wading.&nbsp; As you approach the entrance to Barton Broad, the
+bottom becomes muddy again, and the Broad itself is full of mud;
+there being large &ldquo;hills&rdquo; where the water is not more
+than two feet deep.&nbsp; The navigable channels wind between
+these hills, and are marked out by posts.&nbsp; The Broad is a
+mile long, and very pretty, <a name="page84"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 84</span>and the entrance to it is four and a
+half miles from the mouth of the Ant.&nbsp; In our light-draught
+lateener, we ignored the channels, and sped about all over,
+often, however, finding our speed diminished, as the keel cut
+through the soft mud, and turned up yellow volumes of mud
+behind.&nbsp; It is a curious fact that in some Broads and
+portions of Broads, the mud is of a light yellow colour, and in
+other portions black.&nbsp; As all this mud is the result of
+decayed vegetation, this difference is singular.</p>
+<p>There is an artificial island in the Broad, where a picnic
+party were then enjoying themselves.&nbsp; We sailed away into
+the long bight which leads towards Neatishead, where the bowery
+woods, fringing the water, spoke of welcome shade, but we were
+brought to a stop by the mud, and had some difficulty in getting
+back.&nbsp; On this very lovely Broad, we found we had much
+better stick to the channels, which were wide enough, and explore
+the shallows in the jolly.&nbsp; The fishing here is remarkably
+good.&nbsp; I do not think any objection is made to angling for
+coarse fish, but permission must be obtained for pike
+fishing.&nbsp; The Broad, though the water is fresh, is affected
+by the rise and fall of the tide.&nbsp; Going on one night in the
+dark, I missed the channel, and ran so hard on to a
+&ldquo;hill,&rdquo; that in the morning when the tide was at its
+height, we had to lay the yacht on her side by means of lines and
+tackles to the nearest channel posts ere we could float her
+off.&nbsp; The Broad is easy of access, <a
+name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>by going to
+Stalham railway station, and hiring boats at Stalham, whence a
+row of about two miles will bring you on to the Broad.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p85.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Entrance&mdash;Barton Broad"
+title=
+"Entrance&mdash;Barton Broad"
+src="images/p85.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>At the north end of the Broad, a wide dyke leads
+northwards.&nbsp; This divides into two about a mile from the
+Broad; the left-hand one leads to Dilham and North Walsham,
+becoming a canal, with locks and water-mills.&nbsp; We took the
+right-hand one, and on coming to another sub-division, took the
+left-hand one, the right leading to a grown-up piece of water,
+known as Sutton Broad.&nbsp; The course we chose led us over
+Stalham Broad, which, though marked on maps as a piece of open
+water, now only consists of a tract of marsh, with a dyke kept
+open through it.&nbsp; Stalham is at the end of this dyke.&nbsp;
+Here there are two good inns, the &ldquo;Swan,&rdquo; and the
+&ldquo;Maid&rsquo;s Head,&rdquo; and there are plenty of good
+boats for hire at the waterside.&nbsp; Stalham has a station on
+the Yarmouth and North Norfolk Railway, and as a fishing station
+is considered very good.</p>
+<p>We caught a pike in the dyke, at luncheon time (ours as well
+as his), and a big fellow of about fourteen pounds in weight was
+said to haunt the spot.&nbsp; We saw a large fish strike at some
+roach, but he would not look at our spinning-bait.&nbsp; Within
+sight of the dyke end is a tumble-down house, with a thatched
+roof, broken-backed, and altogether so jumbled and
+ancient-looking, that it makes a capital subject for a
+sketch.</p>
+<p>In the afternoon we sailed quietly back to the cutter, <a
+name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>and took both
+boats back to the Bure, and down it to St. Benet&rsquo;s Abbey,
+which we reached by moonlight.</p>
+<p>
+<a href="images/p88.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Carp"
+title=
+"Carp"
+src="images/p88.jpg" />
+</a>Wynne had taken a great fancy to the lateener, which had been
+lent to me by a friend, and as we wished to explore the Broads
+about Hickling, all too shallow for the cutter, we decided to
+take both yachts up the Thurne to Heigham Bridges, and leave the
+cutter there, while we took the lateener up on the wide, wild
+waters above the bridge.&nbsp; The next morning we devoted to
+pike fishing, at the mouth of the Thurne, getting our bait with a
+casting-net.&nbsp; We got up very early, and were moored in a
+convenient spot, and all rigged up ready to start before the mist
+had risen off the water.&nbsp; I do not intend to go into the
+details of our sport, which was not out of the way, but by one
+o&rsquo;clock we got six pike, from four to ten pounds in weight,
+and put back four under-sized fish.&nbsp; This was with live
+bait, without moving more than one hundred yards from the same
+spot.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p88a.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Carrying reeds, Barton"
+title=
+"Carrying reeds, Barton"
+src="images/p88a.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page89"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 89</span>
+<a href="images/p89.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Barton Staithe"
+title=
+"Barton Staithe"
+src="images/p89.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page90"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 90</span>
+<a href="images/p90.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Stalham Dyke"
+title=
+"Stalham Dyke"
+src="images/p90.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page91"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 91</span>
+<a href="images/hp91.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp91.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER IX.<br />
+<span class="smcap">womack broad</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc91.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc91.jpg" />
+</a>Being tired of fishing, we had a swim, and then dinner; and,
+late in the afternoon, we hoisted sail, to a stiff breeze, Wynne
+and the man in the cutter, and I in the lateener.&nbsp; They ran
+away from me so quickly, however, that I could not stop them at
+the entrance to Womack <a name="citation91"></a><a
+href="#footnote91" class="citation">[91]</a> Broad, as I had
+intended, and was obliged to go in chase of them up to Heigham
+Bridges.&nbsp; The round, bluff bows of my old lateener, designed
+to support the heavy mast, which raked forward over them, made
+such a hollow in the water, and raised such a big wave, that
+sailing very fast was impossible.&nbsp; As it was, the nose of
+the boat sank so that it seemed as if she must run under, a fate
+not uncommon with lateeners, when running before a stiff
+breeze.&nbsp; It was this peculiarity of theirs, combined with
+the large foreyard, more than twice the length of the boat <a
+name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>which caused
+the rig to fall into disuse.&nbsp; For turning to windward,
+however, they are uncommonly handy, and easily managed
+single-handed.&nbsp; The Thurne is a fairly wide stream, with
+deep water, so that you can tack close up to the banks.&nbsp; It
+is four miles from the mouth of the Thurne to Heigham Bridges,
+and the cutter was there ten minutes before me.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p92.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Drainage Mill&mdash;River Thurne"
+title=
+"Drainage Mill&mdash;River Thurne"
+src="images/p92.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;I say, Wynne, I wanted you to stop at that dyke, half
+way up, but I could not make you hear me.&nbsp; There is a
+charming little Broad there, called Womack Broad, and a picture
+ready composed, so bring your paint-box, and we will beat back in
+the lateen.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We reached the dyke in half an hour, tacking in that narrow
+channel with great celerity.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p93.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The River Thurne"
+title=
+"The River Thurne"
+src="images/p93.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;This boat turns more quickly than the cutter, I think;
+at all events, there is less trouble in managing <a
+name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>her,&rdquo;
+said Wynne.&nbsp; &ldquo;Do you know that I think a fine-bowed
+lugger, with main and mizen rig, would be a handy boat for these
+waters.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Some of the old lateeners have been turned into
+luggers, and sail very well.&nbsp; Here is the dyke, nearly a
+mile long, and fringed with ferns and flowers, reeds and
+bulrushes, iris and forget-me-nots.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Here comes a wherry.&nbsp; What shall we do?&nbsp;
+There is no room to pass.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;We must go to windward of her, or her sail will take
+the mast out of us.&nbsp; Here is a place made wide to admit of
+wherries passing, and we can hold on here until she gets
+by.&nbsp; There, that was a tight fit.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The boat sailor must be very careful to keep to windward of
+the wherries in narrow waters, as their huge gaffs and sails take
+up a great deal of room, and if they catch your mast, they may
+carry it away, or capsize you.&nbsp; It is still more important
+not to get across the bows of a wherry, as she would get the best
+of the encounter, and a small yacht very much the worst of
+it.&nbsp; It is not often that accidents happen through any
+collision, but occasionally the crew of a row-boat get bewildered
+and row across the bows of a wherry, sailing fast, and a day of
+pleasure is turned into mourning.&nbsp; A special Providence
+seems to watch over amateur boat-sailors, and it is marvellous to
+see how they come unharmed out of predicaments which seem most
+serious.&nbsp; The wherries are sailed remarkably well, and you
+can generally rely <a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+96</span>on their carefulness, so that you may sail your yacht
+rigidly according to the rule of the road.&nbsp; One thing should
+be remembered, the wherry&rsquo;s sailing is a matter of
+business, and the yachtsman&rsquo;s is a matter of pleasure only;
+therefore, it is well to give way to a wherry, if there is any
+doubt on the point, and not hamper her unnecessarily.</p>
+<p>The dyke we were then sailing down is about a mile long,
+leading westward to Womack Broad, which was once a nice sheet of
+water, but is very rapidly growing up, each year seeing an
+accretion to the growth of spongy marsh, and an additional layer
+of mud on the bottom.&nbsp; At present, the channel is navigable
+for wherries, which ply to Ludham village, at the further end of
+it.</p>
+<p>On the right-hand side, as we entered the Broad, is a bit of
+an old-world picture: a boat-builder&rsquo;s shed, large and old,
+and of picturesque construction, stands on the margin, amid low
+bushes and under the shade of mighty trees.&nbsp; Beneath it is a
+large boat, of an age and type unknown, and a wherry sleepily
+awaiting repair.&nbsp; Behind the boat-house is a barn, whose
+high-thatched roof is shaded by the branches of a cherry
+tree.&nbsp; By the side of the boat-shed is a dyke, where sundry
+small craft are ensconced.&nbsp; Behind all, and peeping out of a
+garden run wild, are low, thatched cottages, and scattered about,
+among the tall grasses, are trunks of trees, curved
+&ldquo;knees&rdquo; of oak, suitable for boat-building, and
+broken-up boats and punts.&nbsp; On the still water in front is
+<a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>moored a
+floating eel-fisher&rsquo;s hut, and all around is the sense of
+the repose of the past.&nbsp; The former busy life has left its
+emblems resting in acquiescence with the fate which contracts the
+sphere of their usefulness, day by day, and year by year, as the
+vegetation slowly, but surely, drives out the water.&nbsp; That
+dense growth of reeds lies upon a skim of soil which would not
+bear the weight of a dog, and now undulates with the movement of
+the water, but in three years&rsquo; time it may bear the weight
+of a man.</p>
+<p>
+<a href="images/p97.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Gudgeon"
+title=
+"Gudgeon"
+src="images/p97.jpg" />
+</a>An old man who lives near there, grumbles because the artists
+come and paint his cottage and broad, and take away pounds&rsquo;
+worth of sketches, and never think of sending him a picture in
+acknowledgment.</p>
+<p>It was a lotos lake to us that afternoon.&nbsp; Wynne painted,
+and I fished, and we sailed back to Heigham Bridges by
+moonlight.</p>
+<p>Womack Broad is not shown upon some maps and charts, but those
+who are susceptible to a lovely scene should not pass it by.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page98"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 98</span>
+<a href="images/hp98.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp98.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER X.<br />
+<span class="smcap">hickling broad</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc98.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc98.jpg" />
+</a>Heigham Bridge is a small stone one, with not much room to
+get through, and a little above it is the railway bridge, over
+which the Eastern and Midlands Railway runs, with a station not
+far off&mdash;Potter Heigham.&nbsp; Near the station is the
+&ldquo;Falgate&rdquo; Inn, where there is comfortable
+accommodation.&nbsp; A gate hangs over the inn by way of a sign,
+and on its bars is inscribed the following&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;This gate hang high<br />
+But hinder none,<br />
+Refresh and pay<br />
+And travel on,&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The omission of the <i>s</i> in the third person singular of
+the verb is truly Norfolk, and common even among the middle
+classes.&nbsp; At the bridge is the &ldquo;Waterman&rsquo;s
+Arms,&rdquo; where one or two bedrooms, and a small parlour, all
+scrupulously clean, are obtainable.&nbsp; Just by the bridge, in
+a sort of wooden &ldquo;Peggoty&rsquo;s Hut,&rdquo; lives
+Applegate, <a name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+99</span>who has good boats, sailing and rowing, for hire, stowed
+away in a remarkably neat boat-house.&nbsp; The fishing all round
+is as good as it can be, and I never fail to get a jack near the
+bridge, while, within four miles lie Hickling and Somerton
+Broads, Heigham Sounds, and Horsey Mere.&nbsp; For myself, I
+should prefer this as a fishing and boating station, to any
+other, because of the wildness of the district.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p98a.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Hickling Broad"
+title=
+"Hickling Broad"
+src="images/p98a.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The tide ebbs and flows strongly; and I caught Wynne standing
+on the bridge, and looking in a perplexed way at the rate the
+perfectly fresh water of the river was running up stream.&nbsp;
+The exit of these waters&mdash;at Yarmouth&mdash;was twenty miles
+away, by water; Heigham Bridge is only between four and five
+miles from the sea, in a direct line, and the water was now
+running eastward, towards the sea, and the lakes, which daily
+rise and fall, though only a few inches, actuated by the salt
+tide, &ldquo;so near, and yet so far.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Verily, this is a strange country,&rdquo; said Wynne,
+&ldquo;and not, I should think, beyond the possibility of a
+sudden visit from the sea.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, those light-coloured mounds in the distance are the
+sea-banks, of sand, only held together by scanty marram
+grasses.&nbsp; We will pay them a closer visit.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We got the lateener through the bridges, taking sufficient
+things for a night&rsquo;s absence, and sailed away up the
+Thurne, which seems now to lose its name as a river, and take
+that of the &ldquo;Hundred Stream.&rdquo;&nbsp; About half a <a
+name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>mile above
+the railway bridge is the mouth of Kendal, or Candler&rsquo;s,
+Dyke, a narrow winding stream, up which we turned, soon to find
+ourselves bordered by tall reeds on either hand, and then sailing
+through a wilderness of water and reeds so tall that they bounded
+our view.&nbsp; This is Heigham Sounds, now greatly overgrown,
+and a capital place for wild fowl; also for rudd, which here
+attain a very large size, and go in immense shoals.&nbsp; Out of
+the channel the water is extremely shallow.&nbsp; In the channel,
+particularly in Kendal Dyke, I have caught a good number of
+pike.</p>
+<p>The fishing on all these Broads&mdash;Hickling, Horsey, and
+the Sounds&mdash;is nominally preserved, but fair anglers do not
+seem to be interfered with.&nbsp; At all events, in the channel
+and the dykes one may pretty well do as one likes, and no attempt
+has ever been made to set up an exclusive right to the
+rivers.&nbsp; I note that a Fishery Preservation Society has been
+formed to abolish illegal netting, and to overlook this district,
+and under the auspices of this it is probable that riparian
+owners will not object to anglers taking a share of the
+superabundant fish out of the Broads.&nbsp; I call the fish
+superabundant advisedly, and will adhere to the term until
+anglers can assure me that they know what to do (usefully) with
+the number of fish they catch, and cease from throwing them away
+on the bank, after ascertaining their weight and number.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p101.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Dyke at Potter Heigham"
+title=
+"Dyke at Potter Heigham"
+src="images/p101.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Well, we sailed as close to the wind as we could&mdash;and <a
+name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>nothing
+goes closer than a lateener&mdash;and could just lie the channel
+through another reedy lake, called Whiteslea, on to the vast
+expanse of Hickling Broad, a lake 400 acres in extent, and
+looking three times as large, owing to the extreme lowness of its
+shores, the absence of any landmarks, and the great concave sky,
+which seems to fit close down all around it.&nbsp; A channel
+across it is marked by posts, which we left to starboard, as we
+sailed over it.&nbsp; The width of the channel you will have to
+determine by experiment, as there is no guide.&nbsp; At a guess,
+it is twenty yards wide, and all the rest of the Broad is so
+shallow that you might wade over it, and find a hard, yellow,
+gravel bottom almost everywhere.&nbsp; Trusting in our two-feet
+draught, we sailed hither and thither, and felt our way checked,
+as the keel cut through masses of weed, and then the bound
+forward, as the boat entered a part clear of weeds.&nbsp; These
+bunches of weed have lately increased greatly in Hickling Broad,
+which used to be comparatively free from them, and the
+promontories of reeds are pushing themselves further and further
+into the lake, and the bays between are getting shallower.&nbsp;
+Still, the lake is large enough, as yet, to be able to stand a
+little filching from.</p>
+<p>We sailed down to Catfield staithe, on the western side of the
+Broad, and not far from Catfield railway station, on the line
+already alluded to.&nbsp; Then we went to Hickling staithe, at
+the north end, where there is an inn, the &ldquo;Pleasure
+Boat,&rdquo; and walked into the village to post letters, and to
+receive some.</p>
+<p><a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 104</span>Boats
+of a rough kind can be obtained here for fishing purposes.&nbsp;
+They are long, narrow, and flat-bottomed, and the usual method of
+propulsion is by &ldquo;<i>setting</i>.&rdquo;&nbsp; The setter
+sits in the extreme stern, and pushes the boat along with a light
+pole, at a great rate.&nbsp; There are often setting races at
+local regattas, and great fun they are.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p104.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Hickling Staithe"
+title=
+"Hickling Staithe"
+src="images/p104.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The number of broken-up lateeners on the shores of the Broad
+attest the decay of large pleasure-boat sailing on these remote
+waters, but the smaller class of centre-board boats are coming
+into favour, and are, perhaps, more suitable.</p>
+<p>After lunch we had to reef the great foresail, which was not
+an easy operation, as the reef was taken in along the yard, and
+we had to go into the jolly boat to get to <a
+name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>the end of
+it.&nbsp; The jolly boat committed a joke its species is very
+fond of, under similar circumstances; that is, it slipped away
+from under one of us, and left him clinging to the yard, with his
+legs in the water.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p105.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Martham Broad"
+title=
+"Martham Broad"
+src="images/p105.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>I shall never forget three days I spent, on Whiteslea and
+Heigham Sound, for the fishing and fowling, one December with a
+friend.&nbsp; I stayed in the little cottage on the small island
+in Whiteslea.&nbsp; We had two boats and two men to attend to us
+during the day, but at night we were left to ourselves in the
+lonely house, where the water oozed through the floor, and the
+beds were so damp that I slept completely clothed in my
+oilies.&nbsp; There was a bitter north-easter sweeping over the
+dry reeds under a leaden sky, and the sport was of the
+slowest.&nbsp; I never felt the cold so much, accustomed though I
+am to winter pike-fishing.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page106"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 106</span>
+<a href="images/hp106.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp106.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XI.<br />
+<span class="smcap">horsey mere and somerton broad</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc106.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc106.jpg" />
+</a>It was exhilarating work sailing over Hickling Broad, and we
+were very loth to leave its wind-swept waters.&nbsp; We had a
+rare run back along the channel, and over Whiteslea, and then
+turned sharp to the left, up the Old Meadow dyke leading to
+Horsey Mere.&nbsp; This dyke is a mile long, and of fair depth,
+but so narrow that people fishing on the banks had to hold up
+their rods as we passed, while our sail swept the tops of the
+reeds.&nbsp; Then we shot into Horsey Mere, a lake of 130 acres
+in extent, with a small island in the middle.&nbsp; It was very
+clear, and very shallow, the channel for wherries lying along the
+west side of it, into Palling dyke, which leads north-westward
+for several miles until it reaches almost to the sea.</p>
+<p>The white sand-hills on the coast were plainly visible, and
+the thunder of the surf was audible, as the sea was <a
+name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>but a mile
+and a half away.&nbsp; We did what nearly every one else does who
+visits Horsey in a yacht; landed at the east end of it, and
+walked to the coast, but it was too rough to bathe.&nbsp; These
+sand-hills form a very curious barrier between the salt and fresh
+water.&nbsp; They are steep and high, and make one wonder by what
+force of wind and waves they attained their present shape and
+dimensions, in so flat a country, and why the like forces do not
+dissipate them over the plain.&nbsp; Breaches have been made in
+them by the sea, from time to time, notably in the winter of
+1791, when a very high tide made several gaps, and threatened to
+overwhelm the marshes inland.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I like this Mere as well as any of the Broads,&rdquo;
+said Wynne, when we returned to the yacht.&nbsp; &ldquo;It is so
+very still and lonely, and its quiet is in such contrast to the
+roar and unrest of the sea close by.&nbsp; Is the fishing free
+here?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, it is supposed to be preserved, though I
+don&rsquo;t suppose anyone will object to our catching a pike for
+supper, if you wish.&nbsp; There are no pike like those in
+Horsey, the proverb says.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>But the wind had fallen as suddenly as it arose, and the
+glamour of a fiery sunset shone over the silent mere.&nbsp; An
+occasional cry of coot, or duck, or splash of fish, and the
+distant sound of the sea, but emphasized the stillness around
+us.&nbsp; We sat on the cabin roof, and talked lazily, as the
+dusk came slowly on, and our voices were low, in unison with the
+evening hush.</p>
+<p><a name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+108</span>&ldquo;I do not wonder,&rdquo; said Wynne, &ldquo;that
+you are so fond of these waters.&nbsp; An evening like this, in
+such watery solitude, makes a strong impression upon
+one.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Horsey Mere is only accessible by water.&nbsp; There is a
+railway station&mdash;Martham&mdash;about four miles off, but if
+you walked from there you could get no sight of the Broad without
+a boat, and boats are not procurable.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;What are these cushions stuffed with?&rdquo; asked
+Wynne, as we lay down for the night.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Horse-hair, I expect; but then age has made them hard
+and crabbed.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, I think that the sleeping accommodation might be
+vastly improved in your Norfolk boats generally.&nbsp; Canvas
+cots or hammocks, air beds and pillows, would all be better than
+the thin cushions there are in the cutter.&nbsp; I
+sha&rsquo;n&rsquo;t sleep to-night, for I have pins and needles
+all over me already.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>And in five minutes he was snoring!&nbsp; One could sleep on a
+deal plank, or even on an oak one, after a few days and nights on
+the Broads.</p>
+<p>We woke very early in the morning, and found that a brisk
+breeze had sprung up, and that the lateener had dragged her
+moorings and drifted into the reeds.&nbsp; She had taken no harm,
+for, short of being run down by a wherry, there are no dangers of
+shipwreck on the Broads, and you might drift about unmoored, for
+all the hurt there is likely to accrue.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p109.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Sound Asleep"
+title=
+"Sound Asleep"
+src="images/p109.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>After a hurried breakfast we hoisted the foresail, and <a
+name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>tore down
+the dyke into Heigham Sounds, across which we sped fast, throwing
+the shallow water into waves, which shook the reeds
+mightily.&nbsp; When we emerged from Kendal dyke into the main
+stream, we turned to the left, and in less than a mile reached
+Martham Ferry, which was stretched across the river while some
+wagons were passing across.&nbsp; This ferry is a large raft,
+which is kept in a recess on either side of the river, and
+floated across, reaching from bank to bank when required.&nbsp;
+There is no one to tend it, and if it happens to be on the other
+side, a wayfarer must wait until some one appears on the other
+side to get it across.&nbsp; It is a wonderfully clumsy thing to
+look at, and is not regarded with friendly eyes by the wherrymen,
+who run their wherries full tilt against it too often at night,
+or when, with the wind astern, they are unable to stop.&nbsp; One
+wherryman, exasperated beyond endurance, let his wherry go at it
+with all her force when running before half a gale, but only
+smashed the bows of his vessel, not moving the ferry a bit or
+injuring it, for it is heavily bound with iron to withstand such
+experiments.</p>
+<p>We sailed to and fro until the wagons had passed, but a wherry
+coming up had to lower her sail in a hurry, and then struck the
+raft with great force before it could be drawn away.&nbsp; This
+jammed it diagonally across the river, and it was half an hour
+before it could be moved.</p>
+<p>At the other side of the ferry, and at the mouth of a dyke, is
+a capital place for pike and large eels, and I <a
+name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 112</span>can
+conceive of no better-looking pike place than the mile of stream
+between here and Somerton or Martham Broad.&nbsp; The water is
+deep and clear, with a stratum of lily leaves, about four feet
+below the surface, and here and there lilies on the
+surface.&nbsp; As we sailed over its glassy surface, not ruffled
+by the crossing wind, on account of the high reeds and grasses,
+we could see thousands of fish of all sizes darting away beneath
+us; and at the end of the main dyke, where it divides into two,
+is a deep, clear pool, with a hard, gravelly bottom, where there
+are any quantity of perch and large roach.&nbsp; It is the
+beau-ideal of a spot for bottom-fishing, but &ldquo;fine and far
+off&rdquo; must you fish, for the water, though deep, is passing
+clear.&nbsp; It is easily accessible from Martham railway
+station, and preferably from Potter Heigham, where, too, you
+could procure a boat.</p>
+<p>The right-hand dyke leads to Somerton Broad, another
+reed-surrounded lake, possessing no particular merit.&nbsp; From
+Martham ferry we walked up a steep road to the village, lying
+around a broad green, and had we time we would have ascended the
+tower of the church, which is a conspicuous object for miles, and
+from which a splendid view of sea and lake is attainable.</p>
+<p>In the church we noted a tablet to one Burraway, whose history
+is told there, but is too unpleasant to be more than referred to
+here.</p>
+<p>After being so long on board a small vessel, one&rsquo;s legs
+become cramped and unfit for walking, and the walk to <a
+name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>Martham and
+back, only a couple of miles, quite tired us, and we were glad to
+get back to our little craft.&nbsp; In half an hour&rsquo;s time
+we were passing under Heigham Bridge, and watching our man
+playing a seven-pound pike in the pool below.&nbsp; On the bank,
+by the cutter, he had arranged for our inspection a score of
+bream, from one pound to three pounds in weight, which he and
+another had caught early that morning and the night before.</p>
+<p>Before turning our faces again towards Yarmouth, it may be
+mentioned that yachts may safely be moored to the bank anywhere
+above Acle, care being taken to avoid the obviously shallow
+parts.</p>
+<p>In many places you will notice the eel-sets, which are fixed
+nets across the river for the purpose of intercepting the
+silver-bellied eels on their migration to the sea.&nbsp; These
+nets are only set at night, and there is a man in charge
+(sheltered in a rough sort of house-boat or hut), to lower the
+nets when craft are passing, so that they do not obstruct the
+navigation.&nbsp; Immense quantities of eels are caught in these
+nets, and it has been proved by an inquiry conducted by the Yare
+Preservation Society, that other fishes are not caught therein,
+and that the sport of the anglers is in no wise interfered
+with.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/tp113.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter end"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter end"
+src="images/tp113.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page114"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 114</span>
+<a href="images/hp114.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp114.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XII.<br />
+<span class="smcap">back to yarmouth</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc114.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc114.jpg" />
+</a>It was two o&rsquo;clock when we hoisted a reefed sail on the
+cutter, leaving the lateener in charge of the owner, who had
+joined us, and it was three o&rsquo;clock when we reached Acle
+bridge, having done the seven miles in the hour, wind and tide
+with us.&nbsp; We left Acle at four, being much delayed in
+lowering and raising the mast, and reached Yarmouth (12 miles) by
+half-past five; so we made a pretty quick passage.&nbsp; We laid
+by the &ldquo;Ale Stores&rdquo; for the night, and were very
+careful to have the yacht strongly moored, for the tide runs
+fast.&nbsp; We were interested in the way the wherries dropped
+down out of the North River, with lowered masts, and a chain or
+weight out over the bows, so as to retard their speed, as they
+drifted stern first, steering, of course, by the pressure of the
+faster-flowing tide against the rudder.&nbsp; We had intended to
+drop down in a similar way, through the swing bridge just below
+<a name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 115</span>us, and
+to go, by sea, to Lowestoft, a distance of only eight miles; but
+as the wind kept getting up, and Breydon was white with foam, we
+put off making up our minds until the morning, for the
+disproportionate bowsprits and open wells of the river yachts are
+not very suitable for sea work.</p>
+<p>Of course, we strolled upon the pier, and then returned to the
+quay-side by moonlight.&nbsp; We found that it was dead low
+water, and that the yacht had receded so much below the level of
+the quay, that no plank within reach would touch her.&nbsp; The
+man was in the forepeak fast asleep, and it was a long time
+before we could wake him, and then we jumped on to some wherries
+lying near, and he brought the jolly to us.</p>
+<p>
+<a href="images/p116.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Perch"
+title=
+"Perch"
+src="images/p116.jpg" />
+</a>We woke at times during the night, and felt the boat swaying,
+and heard the wind howling in the rigging to a very pretty
+tune.&nbsp; In the morning there was no abatement, and although
+it was off the land, we shirked the wetting we should get at sea,
+and decided to go over Breydon, and up the Waveney.&nbsp; As the
+tide would not make until the middle of the morning, we took the
+jolly and rowed down to the harbour mouth at Gorleston.&nbsp; It
+is interesting to note how, for three miles, the river flows
+parallel with the sea, and, on the average, under half a mile
+from it, the dividing land being nothing more substantial than
+shingle and sand.&nbsp; Deeply interesting is it, also, to read
+of the early struggles of the inhabitants of Yarmouth to maintain
+a navigable waterway.&nbsp; <a name="page116"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 116</span>Sometimes the river would open a new
+outlet for itself, and sometimes they made a new one for it; and,
+time after time, the river mouth got silted up with the wearing
+away of this soft eastern shore.&nbsp; Even now there is often
+insufficient water at the bar for deeply-laden vessels of
+ordinary size, and the entrance is particularly unsafe for
+sailing vessels to enter unassisted at certain times.&nbsp;
+Picturesque sights abound on the river, and the quays.&nbsp;
+Fishing smacks taking their brown nets on board from carts ranged
+alongside; boats of every form and size hauled up on the beach;
+vessels building; and vessels in dry docks, undergoing repairs; a
+regular covey of smacks, in tow of a powerful steam tug, and
+hundreds of similar sights of deep interest to a man bitten with
+the joint love of the water and the picturesque.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page117"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 117</span>
+<a href="images/hp117.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp117.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XIII.<br />
+<span class="smcap">yarmouth to somerleyton</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc117.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc117.jpg" />
+</a>On reaching the yacht, after rowing back with the first of
+the flow, we started with two reefs down to beat over Breydon, on
+which the wind against the tide raised a respectable sea.&nbsp;
+There was a great deal of weight in the wind, for it was veering
+towards the south-west, having been north-west all night, and a
+strong south-west wind is generally full of puffs and
+squalls.&nbsp; Many times we had the water over the coamings of
+the well, and the lee plankways were always awash.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;This is something like fun!&rdquo; gasped Wynne, as he
+eased off the jib sheet to a squall, and the salt foam dashed in
+his face; &ldquo;but there won&rsquo;t be much skin left on my
+hands by the time we get to the top of Breydon.&nbsp; These
+enormous jibs are horrible things to have to work.&nbsp; If the
+yachts had finer bows, they would not want <a
+name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>nearly so
+much head-sail, and would go as fast, if not faster.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>This was heresy to our man, who had seen no other rig for
+river boats all his life, and he and Wynne had a heated argument
+on the matter, without either being much the wiser.</p>
+<p>On reaching the top of Breydon, we turned to the left, up the
+Waveney, for half a mile, as far as Burgh Castle, passing over
+the dreaded Burgh flats, where a wherry and a yacht were both
+hard aground, waiting for the tide to float them off.&nbsp; The
+deep water channel is not near the line of posts as one would
+imagine, but close along the west shore.&nbsp; We touched two or
+three times, but did not stick, and at last moored alongside a
+wherry, and landed to inspect the ruins on the top of the
+hill.&nbsp; No one passing along these waters should miss the
+ruins of Burgh Castle, a Roman station of great interest.</p>
+<p>There is a very extensive stretch of massive wall, with towers
+at intervals, and at the corners; and we spent a considerable
+time in making sketches of the ruins, and admiring the extensive
+view.</p>
+<p>We could, if we chose, continue on up the Waveney, but the
+next five miles of river are narrow, uninteresting, and with a
+heavy run of tide, while at the end is a fixed bridge&mdash;St.
+Olave&rsquo;s, where the mast would have to be lowered.&nbsp; So
+we turned back into the Yare, and sailed up to the mouth of the
+new cut at Reedham.&nbsp; This is a ship canal, about three miles
+long, connecting the Yare <a name="page119"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 119</span>with the Waveney.&nbsp; The tide
+flows and ebbs from the Reedham end of it.&nbsp; It is perfectly
+straight, and if the wind should be straight up or down it, there
+is nothing for it but to tow.&nbsp; Now, however, we had a beam
+wind, and tore along merrily enough.&nbsp; But trouble was in
+store for us.&nbsp; The canal is wide enough, but it is not kept
+&ldquo;didled&rdquo; out (&ldquo;didling,&rdquo; or
+&ldquo;dydling,&rdquo; being a Norfolk term for dredging, with
+scoops at the end of poles, and lifting the mud on to the banks),
+and the sides are very shallow.&nbsp; In the distance, we saw a
+large <i>billy-boy</i>, or topsail smack, from the Thames, and as
+we approached, it became only too plain from the rake of her
+mast, that she was aground in the very middle of the
+channel.&nbsp; We got the mainsail down directly, and ran along
+under the jib, and then, as we expected, ran aground alongside of
+her.&nbsp; A wherry coming behind lowered her sail, and stopped
+in time.&nbsp; The smack was laden with rice for Messrs.
+Colmans&rsquo; Works, and her skipper, instead of going round by
+Yarmouth, had tried the short cut by Lowestoft.&nbsp; After much
+shoving and towing we got past, and left the smack patiently
+waiting the rise of the tide, or the arrival of a tug.</p>
+<p>[Since the foregoing was written, the Cut has been much
+improved in depth by dredging, and piling the banks.]</p>
+<p>There is very good fishing to be had in the cut, and the banks
+are sound and dry, which is a rare thing on these rivers.&nbsp;
+There is a lift-bridge at Haddiscoe railway <a
+name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 120</span>station,
+near the end of the cut, which takes some time to get opened;
+this is a great inconvenience, and even a serious matter when you
+are sailing fast, as there is not room to come about.&nbsp; They
+also sometimes fail to open the bridge wide enough, and some time
+since a large yacht had her mainsail torn as she passed through,
+by its catching on the corner of the uplifted bridge.&nbsp; A
+toll of 1s. for each yacht is taken, and a man holds out a bag on
+the end of a pole to receive it.&nbsp; The toll for wherries
+depends in amount upon whether they have the bridge opened for
+them or go through with mast lowered, and at night a chain used
+to be put across to prevent them stealing through unobserved, but
+the chain was frequently &ldquo;charged&rdquo; at full speed, and
+broken.</p>
+<p>In a quarter of a mile we emerged into the Waveney, and,
+looking back, we could see St. Olave&rsquo;s bridge, a rather
+handsome structure.&nbsp; There are a few houses grouped rather
+prettily, and a good inn, the &ldquo;Bell,&rdquo; close by the
+Bridge, a quarter of a mile from Haddiscoe station, and about a
+mile from Fritton Decoy, a favourite lake for fishing, which we
+shall afterwards mention.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p121.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Somerleyton Hall"
+title=
+"Somerleyton Hall"
+src="images/p121.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>We then passed through a railway swing bridge, where the East
+Suffolk Railway passes over, and sailed without further incident
+some two miles further to another swing bridge at Somerleyton,
+where the Lowestoft line passes over.&nbsp; This bridge is the
+worst on the rivers to pass when wind and tide are against you,
+as <a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>they
+so frequently are, and I am always glad to be well clear of its
+piles and projections, through which the tide swirls so
+swiftly.</p>
+<p>The reach below the bridge used to be the best in the whole
+river for pike, but the greater run of tide in recent years and
+the salter water has spoiled the pike fishing, for which one has
+now to go higher up the river.</p>
+<p>There is a very good inn at the top of the bank to the west of
+the line, called the &ldquo;Duke&rsquo;s Head,&rdquo; and a very
+beautiful belt of woods skirts the marshes on the east side of
+the river, where some delicious &ldquo;bits&rdquo; may be
+obtained, and birds, butterflies, and flowers abound.</p>
+<p>
+<a href="images/p123.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Dace"
+title=
+"Dace"
+src="images/p123.jpg" />
+</a>Somerleyton village is well worth a visit, for the owner of
+the estate has built some most artistic cottages and houses,
+which, with another score of years&rsquo; wear, will be
+beautiful.&nbsp; The hall, occupied by Sir Savile Crossley, M.P.,
+stands in a sylvan park.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page124"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 124</span>
+<a href="images/hp124.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp124.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XIV.<br />
+<span class="smcap">from somerleyton to beccles</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc124.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc124.jpg" />
+</a>The angling in all this part of the Waveney is extremely
+good, and the bream and roach are of large size.&nbsp; It is not
+nearly so much frequented as the other rivers or the upper part
+of the Waveney, and is practically unfished, on account of the
+difficulty in obtaining boats, there being no boating-station
+nearer than Oulton Broad, five miles away.&nbsp; Still, it is
+worth while rowing from Oulton Broad, half way to Somerleyton,
+for the takes of bream there lately have been wonderful, both as
+to size and number.&nbsp; The river is broad and deep, and one
+part is as good as another, provided that you select a sufficient
+depth of water.</p>
+<p>We had no time to fish, and as a matter of fact I cannot stay
+to fish, if there is a good breeze blowing; sailing first,
+fishing after!</p>
+<p>We lay to at the mouth of Oulton dyke, to get our <a
+name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 125</span>lunch,
+which we had put off rather too long.&nbsp; The dyke is nearly as
+broad as the river, and a mile and a half long, leading to Oulton
+Broad, which we intended to visit, after going up the Waveney to
+Beccles.&nbsp; At the junction of the dyke with the river there
+is an excellent fishing spot, with a great depth of water.&nbsp;
+While we lay there, a large two-masted vessel, a brigantine of
+100 tons, came along the dyke at a good pace, with topsails only
+set, and looked as if she were going to scoop all the water out
+of the river with her great bluff bows.&nbsp; Her crew were
+pointing out to us, as we lay on the Waveney, and presently the
+hail came across the narrow neck of marsh, &ldquo;Do we turn up
+past you to go to Beccles?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, sharp to port; right around!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The topsails came down, and the mainsail went up with great
+celerity, and with the aid of her aft canvas, and the helm hard
+over, she came round the acute angle of the sharp bend with
+creditable quickness, looking a veritable Goliath on those
+comparatively narrow waters.&nbsp; As she was now head to wind,
+down came her canvas, and half-a-dozen men went ashore with a
+long line to tow, and tow they did all the way to Beccles, 13
+miles, by which time they must have had enough of it.&nbsp; She
+was in sight all day over the marsh.</p>
+<p>After lunch, we sailed up the Waveney, having to tack a good
+portion of the way; but the river is so tortuous that some of the
+reaches can be sailed whichever way the wind is, without
+tacking.</p>
+<p><a name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+126</span>&ldquo;How remarkably clear the water is!&rdquo;
+remarked Wynne.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, those weeds you see are 14 feet at least below us,
+and the river is deep close up to the banks.&nbsp; It is a very
+pleasant river to sail upon.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;And what a lot of small fish there are!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes.&nbsp; The Waveney ought to be the best
+bottom-fishing river in England, it is so deep, clear, and sweet,
+but the poachers used to harry it dreadfully, with their long,
+small-meshed nets, and it was even <i>trawled</i> up by smacks,
+to get bait for sea-fishing, but the Norfolk and Suffolk
+Fisheries Act has stopped all that, or nearly all, and the river
+is rapidly recovering itself.&nbsp; There are some very large
+perch in it, and wherever you see the bank gravelly and free from
+reeds, the bottom will be hard too, and a haunt of perch.&nbsp;
+Look at those bulrushes.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;What huge ones, and what a quantity of them!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, the marshmen sometimes dry the heads, and rub them
+up to stuff pillows and cushions with.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>On the north bank is the church of Burgh St. Peter, the tower
+of which is built in gradually-lessening steps, and presents a
+very strange, un-English appearance.</p>
+<p>The sail up to Beccles is a very pleasant one, and pretty bits
+continually present themselves.&nbsp; Two miles below Beccles
+there is a swing railway bridge, which is tolerably easy to get
+through, as there is not a great rush of tide through it, as
+under the bridges lower down.</p>
+<p><a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+127</span>Beccles church had been a prominent object all the way,
+and when we arrived at Sayer&rsquo;s Grove, so prettily sylvan a
+place that we decided to stay there the night, we went in the
+useful jolly another mile to Beccles bridge, 23 miles from
+Yarmouth, until lately a narrow arched stone structure, but now
+replaced by a wider and more convenient bridge.&nbsp; Passing
+through, we skirted the town of Beccles, until we came below the
+church, a sight no one should miss who is in the
+neighbourhood.&nbsp; Viewed from the river, it stands on the brow
+of a hill, in a commanding position.&nbsp; Landing, we climbed up
+a series of steps and reached the churchyard, whence a splendid
+view westward is obtained, the river winding in and out through
+the green marshes towards Bungay.&nbsp; The south doorway of the
+church is richly ornamented, but the peculiar feature of the
+church is that the tower, a very high and massive structure, is
+separate from it.</p>
+<p>Beccles is a quiet, old-fashioned place, with good railway
+accommodation, as a glance at the map will show.&nbsp; It is a
+cheap place to live in, as there are no heavy rates, these being
+defrayed by the letting of valuable marshes belonging to the
+town.&nbsp; It is a healthy little place, and pretty withal, and
+would, I think, be a capital place for retired persons with small
+incomes to settle in.</p>
+<p>The river is navigable for wherries and small yachts, for
+about ten miles further up to Bungay, but the navigation is
+rather troublesome, and there are two or three locks to be passed
+through.</p>
+<p><a name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 128</span>It is
+worth while to row up the river a few miles to Shipmeadow
+lock.&nbsp; The river all the way is very pretty, with crystal
+clear water, and the lock itself is quaint and old-fashioned.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p128.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"River Waveney"
+title=
+"River Waveney"
+src="images/p128.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>After laying in some stores we returned to the yacht, and
+spent a peaceful evening in the shadow of the wooded hill,
+beneath which we were moored.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page129"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 129</span>
+<a href="images/hp129.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp129.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XV.<br />
+<span class="smcap">oulton broad</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc129.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc129.jpg" />
+</a>In the night we were awakened by the sound of very heavy rain
+pattering on the deck and cabin roof, and presently we discovered
+that the recent very dry weather had opened the seams of the
+wood, and sundry persistent droppings evaded our attempts to
+escape them.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;My nose is wearing away with one dreadful
+drop.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Then open your mouth and catch it.&nbsp; Oh!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;What&rsquo;s the matter?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;A drop went splash into my eye!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We made merry for a time, but presently it clearly became a
+case of &ldquo;a drop too much,&rdquo; and we sat up in
+despair.&nbsp; Just as things were getting uncomfortably wet, the
+storm passed off, and the morning dawned with a wondrous
+clearness and brilliance, while the air was full of the sweet,
+earthy scents that arise after rain.&nbsp; <a
+name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>The reeds
+were fresher and greener, and the grasses and flowers glittered
+in the sun, like the radiant ripples on the water.&nbsp; And so,
+amid the songs of birds and the quickened joy of nature, we
+bowled along down the Waveney at a merry pace, and in two hours
+we had reached the mouth of Oulton Dyke, the sharp turn into
+which necessitated a heavy gibe.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p131.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Oulton Broad"
+title=
+"Oulton Broad"
+src="images/p131.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>A mile and a half of this and Oulton Broad opened out before
+us.&nbsp; This is the most civilized of all the Broads, and is
+always gay with yachts sailing about, and populous with yachts
+lying at their moorings.&nbsp; It is of an irregular shape, and
+in the bight, or &ldquo;ham,&rdquo; at the north-east end of it,
+the yachts are thickly clustered.&nbsp; Also, for what reason it
+is hard to say, many of the old and worn-out fishing smacks of
+Lowestoft are brought into this corner, and moored against the
+bank, where very many of them have sunk, and all are picturesque
+in the extreme.&nbsp; Some large sea yachts also use this bight
+as a laying-up place for the winter.&nbsp; The river yachts and
+sailing boats are of every size and rig, and a paddle in and out
+among them is of interest to a nautical mind.&nbsp; At the lower
+end of the lake is a lock which gives access for sea-going
+vessels to Lake Lothing, which is a tidal lake, two miles long,
+ending in Lowestoft harbour and the sea.&nbsp; By the lock is one
+of the most charming hostelries it is possible to conceive.&nbsp;
+It ought to be called the &ldquo;Angler&rsquo;s Rest,&rdquo; were
+it not already called the &ldquo;Wherry Hotel.&rdquo;&nbsp; Here
+there is capital <a name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+133</span>accommodation for anglers, and boats, bait, etc., are
+provided at reasonable rates.&nbsp; There is also another
+comfortable inn, called the &ldquo;Commodore,&rdquo; and there
+are two smaller inns, the &ldquo;Waveney Hotel&rdquo;&mdash;the
+landlord of which, George Smith, is an excellent
+waterman&mdash;and the &ldquo;Lady of the Lake.&rdquo;&nbsp; The
+railway station is close by, and is now called Oulton Broad
+Station, but was formerly Mutford, that being the name of the
+village at the east end of the Broad.&nbsp; The village is very
+prettily situated between the two lakes, and is only two miles
+from the sea.&nbsp; There are lodgings to be had there, and for a
+place combining the attractions of lake, river, and sea, it has
+few equals.&nbsp; Of course, the Broad is within easy reach of
+Lowestoft, the most attractive watering-place on the coast of
+Norfolk and Suffolk.&nbsp; It has a fine pier, good houses,
+cliffs, a capital harbour for yachts, a harbour for fishing
+vessels, where the artist will find much that is picturesque, and
+an old part of the town on the higher ground to the north, which
+has many features of interest.&nbsp; It has not the noise and
+bustle of Yarmouth, but it is gay enough for reasonable
+people.</p>
+<p>At Lowestoft, facing the harbour, is the club house of the
+Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club, and annual visitors to Lowestoft
+would find it an advantage to join the Yacht Club for the sake of
+the conveniences afforded by the club-house.</p>
+<p>Oulton Broad has plenty of fish in it, and the fishing <a
+name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>is
+free.&nbsp; When the rivers are flooded, and the rank water off
+the marshes pours into the river, the fish of all kinds crowd
+into the purer waters of the Broad in surprising numbers.&nbsp;
+Formerly it was noted for its perch, but for some time they
+appear to have decreased in numbers.&nbsp; Lately, however, they
+have been more freely caught.&nbsp; In a few more years the
+benefits of the Norfolk and Suffolk Fisheries Act will be more
+widely felt, as the abundance of small fish in the rivers plainly
+testifies.&nbsp; Pike are present sometimes in great quantity,
+but the supply seems to fluctuate considerably.&nbsp; For a few
+weeks each season they seem to be uncommonly numerous, and large
+catches are made.&nbsp; Then they fall off, and none are caught
+for some time.</p>
+<p>The shooting on the Broad is also free, and in the large room
+at the &ldquo;Wherry Inn&rdquo; is a most attractive collection
+of fishes and birds, which have met their death in this
+locality.</p>
+<p>The most interesting and tantalizing inhabitant of the Broad
+is the grey mullet, large shoals of which may be seen disporting
+themselves on the surface.&nbsp; They run to a large size, and
+seem to average two or three pounds in weight.&nbsp; Anglers
+cannot catch them as a general rule, but some persons say that
+they have succeeded, using small hooks baited with strange baits,
+such as the beard of an oyster, or a bit of boiled cabbage
+stump.&nbsp; I fancy that by using a fly cast, buoyed at
+intervals by bits of cork, and having small hooks baited with
+gentles, <a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+135</span>and then paying out a long line so as to cover a shoal,
+some sport might be had.&nbsp; At all events, the experiment is
+worth trying some day when there is no wind for sailing.&nbsp;
+The mullet, when alarmed by a net or other obstruction, has a
+habit of leaping high out of the water, and frequently leaps into
+boats.&nbsp; Once, while I was sailing through Reedham Bridge, a
+grey mullet, of four pounds in weight, leaped into the jolly-boat
+towing astern, and was captured.</p>
+<p>
+<a href="images/p135.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Ruffe"
+title=
+"Ruffe"
+src="images/p135.jpg" />
+</a>At Oulton the mullet are often shot with arrows having heavy
+lines attached, while they are accidentally confined in the lock
+between the Broad and Lake Lothing.</p>
+<p>Well, we spent the rest of our holiday at Oulton, and as I was
+saying good-bye to Wynne at the station, I asked him what he
+thought of the Broads.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The finest places for boat-sailing and bottom-fishing
+in England.&nbsp; I shall bring a boat here in the winter for
+wild-fowl shooting on Breydon, and I shall certainly come again
+next summer.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>So ended our cruise.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page136"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 136</span>
+<a href="images/hp136.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp136.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XVI.<br />
+<span class="smcap">ormesby and fritton</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc136.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc136.jpg" />
+</a>There are still some very important Broads in Norfolk and
+Suffolk, which I could not mention in an account of a cruise,
+because they are not accessible from the navigable waters, and,
+as a matter of fact, I know comparatively little about them for
+that reason.&nbsp; There are the Ormesby, Filby and Rollesby
+Broads, lying together in a straggling group four or five miles
+north-eastward of Acle.&nbsp; Altogether, they contain 800 acres
+of water, but much of this is overgrown by reeds.&nbsp; The Muck
+Fleet, which we passed below Acle Bridge, is their outlet into
+the river Bure.&nbsp; They are very easily accessible from
+Yarmouth by rail to Ormesby station, on the North Norfolk
+Railway, and boats may be obtained at the Eel&rsquo;s Foot, and
+the Sportsman&rsquo;s Arms, the former having fair staying
+accommodation.&nbsp; The fishing is free, at all events to
+persons going to the houses named, and <a
+name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>uncommonly
+good sport is to be had amongst pike, rudd, and bream, the number
+of a catch being counted by the hundred, and the weight by the
+stone.&nbsp; For fishing, pure and simple, Ormesby Broad is as
+good a place as any to visit.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p136a.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Fritton Decoy"
+title=
+"Fritton Decoy"
+src="images/p136a.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The other lake I have not described is Fritton Decoy, a long
+curving lake, about a mile from St. Olave&rsquo;s station, on the
+Yarmouth and Lowestoft Railway, and Haddiscoe station, on the
+Norwich and Lowestoft Railway.&nbsp; It is only open to anglers
+from April to September, being closed the rest of the year, to
+protect the wild-fowl decoys, which are still worked on it, by
+the two proprietors.&nbsp; For a note upon these decoys, and
+others in Norfolk, I must refer the reader to a paper upon
+decoys, written by Mr. Thos. Southwell, F.Z.S., published in a
+new edition of that most fascinating book, Lubbock&rsquo;s
+&ldquo;Fauna of Norfolk,&rdquo; issued by the publishers of this
+book, and for descriptive accounts to my own larger book,
+&ldquo;Norfolk Broads and Rivers,&rdquo; published by Wm.
+Blackwood and Sons.</p>
+<p>Fritton is an exceedingly beautiful Broad, and its waters are
+very deep.&nbsp; It is, in fact, a lake, rather than a Broad
+proper.&nbsp; It is extremely well stocked with fish, and good
+sport may generally be obtained there.&nbsp; Boats can be
+obtained at &ldquo;Fritton Old Hall.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/tp137.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter end"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter end"
+src="images/tp137.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page138"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 138</span>
+<a href="images/hp138.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+title=
+"Decorative chapter header"
+src="images/hp138.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>APPENDIX.<br />
+<span class="smcap">railway access to fishing
+stations</span>.</h2>
+<p>
+<a href="images/dc138.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+title=
+"Decorative drop capital"
+src="images/dc138.jpg" />
+</a>To begin with, it may be well to state that Norwich itself
+can be reached from London by two lines of railway&mdash;one via
+Colchester and Ipswich, and the other by Cambridge and Ely, the
+journey taking from three to four hours.&nbsp; From Norwich,
+Yarmouth and Lowestoft may be reached in an hour of slow
+travelling, and as the line runs by the river the whole way, and
+every station is convenient for fishing purposes, it will be
+desirable to give a list of them, with remarks upon the adjacent
+fishing places.</p>
+<h3>WHITLINGHAM.</h3>
+<p>This is too close to Norwich for very good fishing, although
+occasionally the fish seem to head up, and good takes are to be
+had.&nbsp; Good rowing boats may be obtained at Thorpe Gardens,
+five minutes&rsquo; walk from <a name="page139"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 139</span>the station.&nbsp; Omnibuses ply
+between the Gardens and Norwich every hour.&nbsp; The reach of
+the old river is very lovely.</p>
+<h3>BRUNDALL</h3>
+<p>Is the station for &ldquo;Coldham Hall,&rdquo; at which inn
+visitors can be accommodated.&nbsp; The inn is ten minutes&rsquo;
+walk from the station down the river, and across the ferry.&nbsp;
+There are plenty of boats, and the place is much
+frequented.&nbsp; From here down to Buckenham Ferry there are
+large numbers of pike, and it is customary to row down trailing a
+bait behind.&nbsp; Roach and bream are plentiful.</p>
+<h3>BUCKENHAM FERRY.</h3>
+<p>From this station you have ten minutes&rsquo; walk down to the
+Ferry, where boats are to be obtained, and the fishing generally
+is good.</p>
+<h3>CANTLEY.</h3>
+<p>Close by the station is the &ldquo;Red House&rdquo; Inn, where
+there is good accommodation for visitors.&nbsp; Boats can be
+had.&nbsp; The fish, as a rule, run larger here than higher
+up.&nbsp; The water is deep and the tide swift.&nbsp; When the
+water is fairly clear, some good pike may be had.</p>
+<h3>REEDHAM.</h3>
+<p>The &ldquo;Ferry&rdquo; Inn is ten minutes&rsquo; walk.&nbsp;
+Good accommodation.&nbsp; The bream run large, so do the perch,
+of which there used to be large numbers <i>under the ferry
+boat</i>.</p>
+<p><a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 140</span>The
+line divides at Reedham, one part going to Yarmouth and the other
+to Lowestoft.&nbsp; There is no fishing place on the Yarmouth
+branch, but on the Lowestoft line there are&mdash;</p>
+<h3>HADDISCOE,</h3>
+<p>whence the Cut may be fished.&nbsp; Boats are difficult to
+obtain, but the landlord of the &ldquo;Bell&rdquo; Inn, at St.
+Olave&rsquo;s bridge, might procure you one.&nbsp; This is the
+station for Fritton Decoy.</p>
+<h3>SOMERLEYTON.</h3>
+<p>This would be an excellent fishing station if boats could be
+procured, but you cannot rely upon being able to borrow
+one.&nbsp; The porters at the swing-bridge, or the landlord of
+the &ldquo;Duke&rsquo;s Head,&rdquo; might direct you where to
+obtain a boat.&nbsp; I think the latter has one or two.&nbsp; The
+bream are very large and numerous.&nbsp; The good fishing in this
+part of the river has been exemplified by Mr. Winch, of Norwich,
+who has taken 8 stone in a day&mdash;five bream weighing 20 lbs.,
+and one bream weighing 6&frac34; lbs.</p>
+<h3>OULTON BROAD.</h3>
+<p>See the last chapter for full information as to this important
+fishing station.</p>
+<p>Another line from Norwich leads to&mdash;</p>
+<h3>WROXHAM.</h3>
+<p>7 miles.&nbsp; The river is full of roach, bream, perch, and
+pike, although it is much fished.&nbsp; Boats at Jimpson&rsquo;s
+<a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 141</span>or
+Whittaker&rsquo;s, where there is also fair accommodation for
+visitors.&nbsp; The Broad is a mile and a half down stream, from
+the bridge.&nbsp; It can be fished by permission only.&nbsp;
+Tickets to fish on the Broad can be obtained through Mr. C. J.
+Greene, Fishing Tackle Maker, London Street, Norwich, at 2s. 6d.
+per boat.</p>
+<h3>COLTISHALL.</h3>
+<p>Two miles further.&nbsp; The fishing is much better here than
+is generally supposed, but boats are not plentiful.&nbsp; Enquire
+at the waterside who is likely to have one at liberty.</p>
+<p>The Eastern and Midlands line runs from Yarmouth through the
+heart of the Broad District to North Walsham, on the Norwich,
+Wroxham, and Cromer line.&nbsp; The stations from Yarmouth
+are&mdash;</p>
+<h3>ORMESBY.</h3>
+<p>A mile and a half from its Broads, about 200 acres of which
+are free.&nbsp; The fishing is as good as it can be for pike,
+rudd, roach, and bream.&nbsp; Boats at the &ldquo;Eel&rsquo;s
+Foot&rdquo; and &ldquo;Sportsman&rsquo;s Arms.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+Staying accommodation at the former.</p>
+<h3>MARTHAM.</h3>
+<p>Not far from the river Thurne, but the next station is more
+convenient.</p>
+<h3>POTTER HEIGHAM.</h3>
+<p>Inns, the &ldquo;Falgate&rdquo; and &ldquo;Waterman&rsquo;s
+Arms,&rdquo; where <a name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+142</span>there is staying accommodation.&nbsp; Good boats at
+Applegate&rsquo;s.&nbsp; The river Thurne and the channels
+through Heigham Sounds and Hickling swarm with bream, rudd,
+perch, roach, pike, and eels.</p>
+<h3>CATFIELD.</h3>
+<p>The nearest station to Hickling, but not so convenient for
+boats.</p>
+<h3>STALHAM.</h3>
+<p>Barton Broad is within a mile and a half, where the fishing is
+excellent.&nbsp; Plenty of boats obtainable at the end of the
+dyke.&nbsp; Inns, the &ldquo;Maid&rsquo;s Head&rdquo; and the
+&ldquo;Swan,&rdquo; both very comfortable.&nbsp; Stalham is a
+pretty village.</p>
+<p>Thence to North Walsham there is no fishing station of
+interest.</p>
+<p>On the direct line between Yarmouth and Lowestoft, <span
+class="smcap">St. Olave&rsquo;s</span> is the nearest station to
+Fritton.</p>
+<h3>ACLE</h3>
+<p>Is now a station on the new line between Norwich and Yarmouth,
+joining the old line at Brundall.</p>
+<p>Of places not accessible by rail, the chief is Horning Ferry,
+on the Bure, where there is a capital inn to stay at, kept by a
+good host and sportsman, Mr. Thompson, who can be relied upon to
+make his visitors comfortable.&nbsp; At Horning village, the
+&ldquo;New&rdquo; Inn deserves mention, and boats can be procured
+there.&nbsp; Horning is about four miles&rsquo; drive from
+Wroxham, and ten from Norwich.</p>
+<p><a name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>The
+reader is requested to look at the Map, and note the relative
+position of the various places.&nbsp; As to fishing, it can
+hardly be said that one is better than another, for all are so
+good.</p>
+<h2>NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.</h2>
+<p>Under this Act, which was passed in 1877, certain Bye-laws
+have been made, with which the reader should make himself
+acquainted.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">APPROVED BYE-LAWS.</p>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Close Time&mdash;All Waters</span>.</p>
+<p>1.&nbsp; No person shall fish for, catch, take, or kill, or
+attempt to catch, take, or kill, otherwise than by rod and line,
+within the limits of the above Act, any Trout, between the 10th
+day of September and the 25th day of January, both days
+inclusive, or any other kind of fish, between the 1st day of
+March and the 30th day of June, both days inclusive, except
+Smelts, Bait, and Eels, as hereinafter provided.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Nets Generally</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>2.</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="4"><p>No person shall, for the purpose of taking
+Fish within the limits of the above Act, do any of the following
+things:&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>1.</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use any Net between one hour
+after sunset and one hour before sunrise, except in the River
+Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in the River Nene below Wisbeach
+Bridge.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>2.</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use, at any time before the
+30th day of June, 1890, for the purpose of taking Fish, other
+than <a name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+144</span>Tench, Smelts, Bait, and Eels, any Net having a mesh of
+less dimensions when wet than three inches from knot to knot,
+measured on each side of the square, or twelve inches all
+round.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>3.</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use any Net having a wall or
+facing, with a mesh of less dimensions when wet than seven inches
+from knot to knot, measured on each side of the square, or 28
+inches all round.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>4.</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river,
+any Bow Net.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>5.</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river,
+any Drag Net having a poke or pocket.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>6.</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>Use or attempt to use a drag net of any kind
+in the under-mentioned waters:&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>1.&nbsp; The River Yare or Wensum&mdash;</p>
+<p>2.&nbsp; The River Waveney&mdash;</p>
+<p>3.&nbsp; The River Bure, below the lower entrance into Wroxham
+Broad&mdash;</p>
+<p>4.&nbsp; The River Ant, below the lower entrance into Barton
+Broad&mdash;</p>
+<p>5.&nbsp; The River Thurne, below the entrance into Somerton
+Broad&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>except with the previous permission in writing
+of the Board of Conservators, under their Common Seal.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>3.&nbsp; No person shall, within the limits of
+the above Act, use or attempt to use, any net for taking Fish,
+unless it is sufficiently weighted to sink vertically in the
+water, or take, or attempt to take, Fish by placing two or more
+Nets behind or near to each other, or use any other device or
+artifice so as practically to diminish the size of the mesh of
+any net allowed to be used by these Bye-Laws, or to evade this
+provision.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><a
+name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 145</span><span
+class="smcap">Prohibiting Use of Trimmers, &amp;c., in Navigable
+Rivers</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>4.&nbsp; No person shall use, or attempt to
+use, any Trimmer, Ligger, Dead Line, or Snare, or any like
+Instrument or Engine, for the purpose of taking Fish in any
+navigable river within the limits of the above Act, except Lines
+for taking Eels as hereinafter provided.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Taking Smelts.&mdash;Rivers Yare and
+Wensum</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>5.&nbsp; No person shall, within the limits of
+the above Act, use, or attempt to use, any Net in the River Yare
+or Wensum for the purpose of taking Smelts, except a Cast Net or
+Drop Net, between the 10th day of March and the 12th day of May,
+both days inclusive, and then only between the New Mills, in the
+parish of Saint Swithin, in the City of Norwich, or Trowse
+Bridge, in Trowse, or Trowse Newton, and the junction of the
+Rivers Yare and Wensum at a place known as Trowse Hythe, and
+between Hardley Cross and the junction of the Rivers Yare and
+Waveney.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>6.&nbsp; No person shall use, or attempt to
+use, a Cast Net or Drop Net exceeding 16 feet in diameter, in the
+River Yare or Wensum, within the limits of the above Act.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Taking Smelts.&mdash;River Waveney</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>7.&nbsp; No person shall, within the limits of
+the above Act, use, or attempt to use, in the River Waveney,
+above the Burgh Cement works, any Net for the purpose of taking
+Smelts, except between the 10th day of March and the 12th day of
+May, both days inclusive, and then only at the places and by the
+means hereinafter mentioned, viz., between Rose Hall Fleet, and
+the Boat-house Hill, near Beccles, and in the pen of Shipmeadow
+Lock, by a Cast Net or Drop Net not exceeding 16 feet in
+diameter, and if any such Net be used between one hour after
+sunset and one hour before sunrise, the same shall be used with a
+light or flare, and not otherwise.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><a
+name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span><span
+class="smcap">Taking Smelts.&mdash;Rivers Ouse, Nar, and
+Nene</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>8.&nbsp; No person shall, within the limits of
+the above Act, take or kill, or attempt to take or kill, Smelts
+in the Rivers Ouse, Nar, or Nene, between the 1st day of April
+and the 31st day of August, both days inclusive.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>9.&nbsp; No person shall, within the limits of
+the above Act, use or attempt to use, in the Rivers Ouse, Nar, or
+Nene, for the purpose of taking Smelts, any Net having a mesh of
+less dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot
+to knot, measured on each side of the square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Taking Smelts.&mdash;Breydon Water</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>10.&nbsp; No person shall, within the limits
+of the above Act, use, or attempt to use, in the water known as
+Breydon Water, for the purpose of taking Smelts, any Net in the
+months of May, June, July, and August, or any Net between the 1st
+day of September and the 30th day of April, both days inclusive,
+having a mesh of less dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths of
+an inch from knot to knot, measured on each side of the
+square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Taking Bait.&mdash;Navigable Rivers</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>11.&nbsp; No person shall, for the purpose of
+taking Bait in any navigable river within the limits of the above
+Act (except in the River Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in the
+River Nene below Wisbeach Bridge), use any Net other than a Cast
+Net, or any Cast Net having a mesh of less dimensions, when wet,
+than five-eighths of an inch from knot to knot, measured on each
+side of the square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Taking Bait.&mdash;All Waters</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>12.&nbsp; No person shall, within the limits
+of the above Act, use, or attempt to use, any Cast Net exceeding
+twelve yards in circumference, between the 11th day of October
+and the 1st day of April in each year, or any Cast Net exceeding
+eight yards in circumference at any other time of the year, or
+any such net, <a name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+147</span>having a sack, or purse exceeding fourteen inches in
+depth, when extended, for the purpose of taking Fish for Bait;
+and the word &ldquo;Bait&rdquo; shall mean Roach, Rudd or Roud,
+Bream, Dace, Ruff or Pope, Gudgeons, and Minnows, measuring less
+than eight inches from the nose to the fork of the tail.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>13.&nbsp; No person shall, within the limits
+of the above Act, Net for Bait at any time on a Sunday; and no
+person shall, within such limits, Net for Bait at any time on a
+week-day except between one hour before sunrise and one hour
+after sunset, nor unless such Bait is for use in angling, or
+trolling, or taking Eels within the limits of the above Act.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Taking Eels.&mdash;Rivers Yare and Wensum, above
+Hardley Cross</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>14.&nbsp; No person shall, for the purpose of
+taking Eels in the Rivers Yare and Wensum, above Hardley Cross,
+do any of the following things:&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>1.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Use or attempt to use in the months of April, May, and
+June, a line with a hook or hooks, except in connection with a
+rod used for the purpose of Angling.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>2.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Use or attempt to use any Net in the months of April, May,
+and June.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>3.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Use or attempt to use at any other time of the year, a
+Line, whether fixed or not, with more than one hook, except in
+connection with a rod used for the purpose of Angling.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2"><p>4.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Use or attempt to use any Net other than a Skim or Skein
+Net.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Taking Eels.&mdash;All Other Waters</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>15.&nbsp; In all other waters within the
+limits of the above Act, lines with one hook only, whether fixed
+or not, and fixed Nets, but no others, may be used at any time
+for taking Eels only.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>16.&nbsp; No person shall use or attempt to
+use, in any water within the limits of the above Act, a Dag or
+Spear, for the purpose of taking Fish other than Eels.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p style="text-align: center"><a
+name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span><span
+class="smcap">All Waters</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>17.&nbsp; Any person, within the limits of the
+above Act, taking any Fish except Smelts, Eels, or Bait in any
+Net allowed by the Bye Laws to be used for taking Smelts, Eels,
+or Bait respectively, shall immediately return such
+first-mentioned Fish to the water without avoidable injury.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5"><p>18.&nbsp; The foregoing Bye-laws shall not
+apply to any other than fresh-water Fish, or to the water known
+as Breydon Water, except as to Smelts, as hereinbefore
+provided.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p><i>I hereby certify that the foregoing is a true Copy of the
+Bye-laws made by the Board of Conservators under the above Act,
+and that such Bye-laws have been approved by one of Her
+Majesty&rsquo;s Principal Secretaries of State, and have been
+duly advertised as approved Bye-laws in newspapers circulated in
+the Counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, and have been otherwise
+published as the Board directed.</i></p>
+<p><i>Sealed by order of the Board.</i></p>
+<h2>TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">FROM CARROW
+BRIDGE.<br />
+<span class="smcap">Yare</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Miles</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>To Trowse Hythe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Thorpe Second Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">1&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Whitlingham Ferry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Corby&rsquo;s Dyke</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">2&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Postwick Grove</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">3&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">3&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Wood&rsquo;s End</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Wilde&rsquo;s Cottage</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Surlingham Ferry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">5&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Coldham Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">7&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Walpole&rsquo;s Reed Bush</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Buckenham Ferry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Hassingham Dyke</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">10&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Langley Dyke</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">11&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>To Cantley Red House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">12&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Devil&rsquo;s House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">13&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Hardley Mill</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Dyke</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">14&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Cross</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">15&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Norton Staithe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">15&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Reedham Ferry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">15&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; End of New
+Cut</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Upper Seven Mile House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">18&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Berney Arms</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">20&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Burgh Flats</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Yarmouth Drawbridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, Gorleston Pierhead</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">27&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><a
+name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 149</span>FROM
+REEDHAM BRIDGE.<br />
+<span class="smcap">Waveney</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>To Herringfleet Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Somerleyton Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Oulton Dyke</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">7&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Broad</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">8&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>To Mutford Lock</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">9&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Lowestoft Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">11&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Pierhead</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">11&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">FROM YARMOUTH
+BRIDGE.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Yare</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>To Berney Arms</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Reedham Town</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Norton Staithe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">9&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Hardley Cross</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Cantley</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">12&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Buckenham Ferry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Coldham Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">18&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Surlingham Ferry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">19&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Bramerton Wood&rsquo;s End</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Postwick Grove</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Whitlingham</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Carrow Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Waveney</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>To Burgh Cage</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; St. Olave&rsquo;s Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">9&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Mouth of New Cut</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">9&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Somerleyton Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">12&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Mouth of Oulton Dyke</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Carlton Share Mill</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">16&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Seven-Mile Corner</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">17&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Six-Mile Corner</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">18&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Worlingham Staithe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Aldeby Staithe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">20&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Beccles Mill</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Sayer&rsquo;s Grove</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Beccles Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Nine Poplars</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">24&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>To Dawson&rsquo;s Dip House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">24&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Barsham&rsquo;s Boat House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">25&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Mouth of Oulton Dyke</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Horse Shoe Point</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Oulton Broad</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">16&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Mutford Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">17&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Lowestoft Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Length of New Cut</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">2&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Bure</span>.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>To Three-Mile House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Runham Swim</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">5&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Six-Mile House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">6&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Seven-Mile House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">8&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Stokesby Ferry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Acle Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Fishley Mill</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">12&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Thurne Mouth</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">15&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; St. Benet&rsquo;s Abbey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Mouth of Ant</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">17&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Horning Ferry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Horning Point</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Wroxham Broad</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">25&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Wroxham Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Belaugh</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">31</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Coltishall Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Aylsham Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><a
+name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 150</span><span
+class="smcap">Thurne</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>To Thurne Mouth</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">15&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Potter Heigham Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Candler&rsquo;s Dyke</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">19&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Hickling Staithe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">22&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">Ant</span>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>To Mouth of Ant</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">17&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Ludham Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">18&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Mouth of Barton Broad</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">21&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; End of Barton Broad</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">22&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Stalham</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">23&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp; Stalham Staithe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">24&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>From Yarmouth Bridge to Runham Swim</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">5&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Six-Mile House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">6&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Seven-Mile House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">8&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Stokesby Ferry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Acle Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>From Acle Bridge to Fishley Mill</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+Thurne Mouth</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">3&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; St.
+Benet&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mouth
+of Ant</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">5&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+Horning Rectory</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">7&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Ferry</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Point</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+Entrance to Wroxham Broad</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">13&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+Wroxham Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>From Wroxham Bridge to Belaugh</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp; Coltishall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp; Aylsham</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>From Yarmouth Bridge to Wroxham Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp; Coltishall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp; Aylsham</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>From Thurne Mouth to Heigham Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">3&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; Kendal
+Dyke</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; Hickling
+Staithe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>From River Ant to Ludham Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; Mouth of Barton Broad</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; End
+of&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; End of Stalham Broad</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp; Staithe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">6&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+151</span>TIDES.</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: center">h.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: center">m.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>It is high water at Lowestoft</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">43</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>later than at Yarmouth Bar</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;
+Cantley</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;
+Coldham Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;
+Oulton</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;
+Horning</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>The Tide flows and ebbs in the Bure one hour later than at
+Yarmouth Bridge.</p>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Springs.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Neap.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>The rise at Yarmouth is</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6 feet</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4&frac12; feet</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; Lowestoft ,,</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6&frac12; ,,</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5&frac14;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp; Cantley&nbsp;&nbsp;
+,,</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>2&frac12; ,,</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>1&frac12;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,&nbsp;
+Oulton&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>2&nbsp; ,,</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>1&frac14;&nbsp;&nbsp; ,,</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>The Tides, however, vary according to the strength and
+direction of the wind and the quantity of flood water in the
+river.</p>
+<h2>FISHING GENERALLY.</h2>
+<p>In the rivers it is customary to fish in 10 to 14 feet of
+water, and the shortness of the swims necessitates the line being
+heavily weighted, in order that it may sink rapidly.&nbsp; The
+floats are necessarily large, particularly when used for the
+lower reaches, where there is a considerable tidal current.&nbsp;
+The boats are moored in a line with the stream, not across it, as
+on the Thames, and the swims are thus very short.&nbsp; For the
+upper and clearer waters, the Nottingham system of angling might
+be advisable, but in the more turbid lower reaches the Norfolk
+style is practically the best.&nbsp; Worms are used for bream,
+and paste for roach.&nbsp; Worms are procurable at some of the
+tackle shops, but anglers will do well to provide them for
+themselves if possible.</p>
+<p><a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 152</span>Boats
+are charged for at the rate of from 1s. to 2s. a-day, but are
+rather rough concerns, except at Oulton.</p>
+<p>Ground-bait, consisting chiefly of meal and clay, is largely
+used, but a place is rarely baited beforehand.&nbsp; As there is
+ample choice of stations, always moor so that the wind is at your
+back, and you will thus have smooth water in front of you.</p>
+<p>Small roach as bait for pike, are procurable at most of the
+waterside inns, at 1s. to 1s. 6d. a score, but to get the best
+sport obtain fish from other waters, particularly dace and
+gudgeon.</p>
+<p>Pike are, of course, the chief fish in Norfolk, and are
+plentiful everywhere.&nbsp; In the rivers they do not run very
+large, a ten-pound fish being considered a good one, but in a few
+years&rsquo; time, with the freedom from netting the rivers now
+enjoy, we may expect some very large ones to be caught in the
+rivers.&nbsp; In private waters there are veritable monsters, but
+the stranger is not likely to make acquaintance with them.</p>
+<p>Live-baiting and spinning with a spoon, or artificial bait
+trailed behind a boat, are the usual modes of fishing for pike in
+Norfolk.&nbsp; Trolling with a dead gorge, and spinning with a
+dead bait by casting, as in the Thames, are comparatively rarely
+practised, although I believe that in some portions of the rivers
+these methods would &ldquo;pay.&rdquo;&nbsp; I have seen
+fly-fishing for pike practised with success here, and I firmly
+believe that on some of the shallower Broads it would be very
+deadly.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p152a.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Ormesby Broad&mdash;Landing stage"
+title=
+"Ormesby Broad&mdash;Landing stage"
+src="images/p152a.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 153</span>Perch
+are only locally common wherever there is a suitable bottom for
+them, as at Irstead Shoals and Hickling, and in some portions of
+the Bure and Waveney, but they run to a large size, and are
+sometimes caught between three and four pounds in weight.</p>
+<p>Bream are most common of all, and may be caught by hundreds
+and the stone weight.&nbsp; They run up to five and six pounds in
+weight, and a take by two rods in a day of 150, averaging
+half-a-pound apiece, is not a rare event.</p>
+<p>Roach are very numerous and large, many running close to two
+pounds in weight.</p>
+<p>Rudd are beautiful game fish, common in some of the Broads,
+particularly Ormesby, and give rare sport if you get among a
+shoal of them.</p>
+<p>Eels are, of course, present in any number, and
+&ldquo;babbing&rdquo; for them, with a bunch of worms threaded on
+to worsted, is not a bad way of passing a warm night.</p>
+<p>Tench are common, but are not often caught with a rod and
+line.&nbsp; They are taken in bow nets, and run very large.&nbsp;
+In hot weather, in June, they may be taken by the hand as they
+bask in the shallow water among the weeds.&nbsp; Some fishermen
+are very skilful in this particular mode of catching them.</p>
+<p>Carp are caught sometimes, but not often, although there are
+plenty of them.</p>
+<p>Dace and gudgeon are not so frequently caught in the navigable
+waters as other fish.</p>
+<p><a name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>Chub
+and barbel are unknown in the Broad District.</p>
+<p>The bream are so excessively abundant that they spoil the
+fishing for other fish, notably for perch, and I think it would
+be an excellent thing if the different preservation societies
+would set apart a few days each year for systematic netting to
+thin the bream, replacing the other fish, and selling those
+retained.&nbsp; What is the good to anglers of catching thousands
+of small bream?&nbsp; Are not a score over a pound weight each
+better than ten-score fingerlings?&nbsp; Judicious thinning out,
+under proper supervision, would have a most beneficial effect on
+the size of the fish generally.</p>
+<p>There are several preservation societies, of which the Yare
+Preservation Society is the chief.&nbsp; Mr. C. J. Greene, of
+London Street, Norwich, Fishing Tackle Maker, is the honorary
+secretary.&nbsp; The objects of these societies are to abolish
+netting and poaching, and protect the river for fair
+angling.&nbsp; The subscriptions are nominal (5s.), and yet they
+are supported entirely by local efforts.&nbsp; As a rule, none of
+the anglers from London and other distant parts, who come down to
+Norfolk and have the best of sport, contribute anything to the
+societies which are instrumental in furnishing them with
+sport.&nbsp; This is exceedingly shabby of visitors here, and I
+trust that those who have been induced to visit the Broads
+through my writings will at least make the small return to
+Norfolk anglers of assisting them in their efforts to make these
+waters the best public fishing places in the kingdom.</p>
+<p><a name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 155</span>There
+are a few professional fishermen to be hired by the angler.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Professor&rdquo; Day, of Richmond Hill, Norwich, is one of
+the best, and knows every inch of water, and there are some good
+men at Oulton.</p>
+<p>Strangers frequently complain that they cannot meet with the
+excellent sport which falls to the lot of the local anglers, and
+I remember Mr. Cholmondeley Pennel being immensely dispirited at
+his non-success on our waters.&nbsp; I lately interviewed a local
+gentleman who is well known as a successful fisherman, and I
+append my questions and his remarks thereon, which will afford
+some valuable information.</p>
+<h3>ROACH.</h3>
+<p><i>1.&nbsp; Where found at different periods of the
+year</i>?</p>
+<p>Throughout the summer the entire length of our local streams
+where the water is fresh and not salt or brackish; the finest
+fish and greatest number between Cantley and Coldham Hall, on the
+Yare; large numbers also in the dyke leading from Oulton
+Broad.&nbsp; In winter they appear generally to retire to the
+deep waters, and are sometimes found in good quantity about
+Thorpe Broad, and may be angled for with success in deep spots on
+the Bure and other waters.</p>
+<p><i>2.&nbsp; Best periods to fish for them</i>?</p>
+<p>July to October, but good catches may often be had in
+November, and during the winter and early spring months by any
+expert angler who doesn&rsquo;t mind the cold.</p>
+<p><a name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+156</span><i>3.&nbsp; What time of day at different
+seasons</i>?</p>
+<p>As a rule, but few fish are caught during the middle of the
+day; this is especially the case in bright warm weather.&nbsp; On
+dull, &ldquo;close&rdquo; days, however, they will often bite
+freely throughout the day.&nbsp; The morning up to about 11.30,
+and from 3 to 6 or 7 p.m. are undoubtedly the best times to fish
+during summer, and in winter almost any time up to sunset.</p>
+<p><i>4.&nbsp; What depth of water</i>?</p>
+<p>As a rule, the best fish are found during summer in the
+deepest water, and should not be angled for on the Yare at a less
+depth than nine or ten feet.&nbsp; On the Bure the deepest spots
+that can be found.&nbsp; In March or April shallower waters
+should be tried.</p>
+<p><i>5.&nbsp; How affected by the tide</i>?</p>
+<p>Variously.&nbsp; Sometimes an angler gets all his fish on the
+up tide, and at other times on the ebb.&nbsp; I, however, suspect
+that certain local formations of the river bed, have much to do
+with this.</p>
+<p><i>6.&nbsp; What ground-bait</i>?</p>
+<p>The best I have ever used is composed of bran, bread, and
+boiled wheat, in fair proportions, made up into firm balls about
+the size of an orange.&nbsp; One of these thrown in occasionally,
+and now and then a few grains of boiled wheat will generally
+suffice to keep a good quantity of fish about your boat.</p>
+<p><i>7.&nbsp; Are places ever baited beforehand</i>?</p>
+<p>Not often for roach.&nbsp; Believe this is done occasionally
+by some, but have never practised it myself.</p>
+<p><a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+157</span><i>8.&nbsp; What baits are most successful</i>?</p>
+<p>During summer the most successful baits are well-boiled wheat
+and paste, red or white, in such clear waters as the Waveney and
+the upper reaches of Bure, etc.&nbsp; White paste is best on the
+Yare, the red always kills the best fish.&nbsp; In autumn,
+gentles, and later on brandlings and gentles, or better still,
+small red worms, &ldquo;blood.&rdquo;&nbsp; There are many other
+baits used with good success occasionally, but these are by far
+the most reliable.</p>
+<p><i>9.&nbsp; What kind of rod</i>?</p>
+<p>For tight-line fishing in the deep waters of the Yare, the rod
+should be light, stiff, and from 15 to 18 feet in length.&nbsp;
+For running tackle a shorter rod will do, and for this I prefer
+one of hickory.&nbsp; Should recommend cane for the longer
+kind.</p>
+<p><i>10.&nbsp; Number of hook</i>?</p>
+<p>When the fish are of fair size, I use No. 9, at other times
+Nos. 10 or 12.&nbsp; Those known amongst anglers as
+&ldquo;Crystal,&rdquo; are excellent for roach fishing.</p>
+<p><i>11.&nbsp; Is running tackle advisable</i>?</p>
+<p>Running tackle is decidedly preferable for such deep, strong
+waters as those between Coldham Hall and Reedham.&nbsp; For the
+slower waters of the Bure and the upper reaches of the Yare, I do
+not consider that running tackle has any advantages worth
+naming.</p>
+<p><i>12.&nbsp; Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of
+line</i>?</p>
+<p>For deep-water fishing I always attach nine feet of <a
+name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>gut to my
+line; six feet moderately stout and three feet fine drawn.&nbsp;
+Line, a fine <i>braided</i> silk.&nbsp; A light, well-shotted
+line of this kind has many advantages, especially on a windy
+day.</p>
+<p><i>13.&nbsp; What kind of float</i>?</p>
+<p>Quill at all times.&nbsp; For deep swift waters, a large
+pelican or swan quill, for slower and shallower waters a much
+smaller one.</p>
+<p><i>14.&nbsp; Is line heavily shotted</i>?</p>
+<p>For deep waters I use a float carrying upwards of 20
+medium-sized shot.&nbsp; These are placed on a space of about a
+foot, the bottom one not nearer than about three feet from the
+hook, with just one shot on the gut attached to hook.&nbsp; This
+arrangement ensures the bait being carried swiftly to the bottom
+and kept steady, very important items in roach fishing.</p>
+<p><i>15.&nbsp; Is float best attached by lower end only</i>?</p>
+<p>Yes, this plan which has been in practice with the
+&ldquo;Norwich School&rdquo; for many years past is decidedly the
+best, and admits of much more neatness and accuracy in striking a
+fish than when the float is attached by upper end as well as
+lower.</p>
+<p><i>16.&nbsp; Do you strike at first dip</i>?</p>
+<p>When good fish are on the feed, the float is first affected by
+a slight tremulous movement, and almost immediately settles down,
+generally in a slanting direction; the moment to strike is just
+as the settling down <a name="page159"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 159</span>commences.&nbsp; This, however,
+requires a large amount of practice and some keen observation
+before an angler becomes expert.&nbsp; Sudden perky bites
+indicate small fish, and these are often the most difficult to
+catch.</p>
+<p><i>17.&nbsp; Are the fish much affected by change of wind,
+rain, thick water, etc., and is there any rule on this
+head</i>?</p>
+<p>Have always found a S.W. to N.W. wind the most favourable,
+especially when the water is &ldquo;grey&rdquo; or thick, and
+have had capital sport with a moderate east wind, but never when
+it has blown strongly from that quarter, and the old maxim</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;When the wind blows from the east<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The fish bite the least,<br />
+When the wind&rsquo;s from the west<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The fish bite the best,&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>contains a great truth in small compass.&nbsp; Fish may
+undoubtedly be taken in clear water and in good quantity, but
+running tackle and fine, and extreme caution are necessary.</p>
+<p><i>18.&nbsp; Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or
+loud talking frightens the fish</i>?</p>
+<p>Loud talking or laughter in the boat does not appear to
+intimidate the fish, but knocking or any disturbance which
+communicates a vibration to the water is decidedly objectionable,
+especially in shallower streams, and often causes a great
+interruption to the fishing.&nbsp; Have found a pair of
+lawn-tennis shoes or slippers very good to wear in a boat when
+fishing, for this reason.</p>
+<p><a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+160</span><i>19.&nbsp; Name some of the best catches you have
+made or know of</i>.</p>
+<p>I do not chronicle my catches, so can give no dates; but have
+had some fine catches within the past five or six years,
+principally on the Yare.&nbsp; On one occasion, at Buckenham,
+with a friend, six stone <a name="citation160"></a><a
+href="#footnote160" class="citation">[160]</a> between 2.30 and 7
+p.m.; another time upwards of five stone in about the same space
+of time, and numerous catches of from two to four stone in an
+afternoon&rsquo;s fishing; also more than a bushel by measure one
+afternoon with a friend fishing in the dyke leading to Oulton
+Broad.&nbsp; This was in the first week of September, 1879.</p>
+<p><i>20.&nbsp; What is the reason of the non-success of strange
+anglers which is so noticeable</i>?</p>
+<p>Ignorance of the general requirements of tackle suitable for
+fishing in our waters, and also of the <i>modus operandi</i>, one
+of the chief reasons being a want of knowledge of the right depth
+at which to fish, which could easily be known by simply
+&ldquo;plumbing&rdquo; the depth.&nbsp; By way of instance, I
+have on several occasions found strangers fishing on the Yare in
+12 or 14 feet of water, with their baits only about four or five
+feet below the surface, and at the same time wondering that
+anglers close by should be catching plenty of fish when they
+could get none.&nbsp; Baits, too, are doubtless used which,
+although very good for some streams or waters, are of very little
+use with us.</p>
+<p><a name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+161</span>N.B.&mdash;&ldquo;When the wind blows strong and the
+waves roll high,&rdquo; it is often very difficult to fish or
+even to detect a bite.&nbsp; This is very tantalising, and not
+infrequently happens through a shift in the wind when you are in
+a capital &ldquo;swim.&rdquo;&nbsp; The remedy for this is to put
+on a nice light ledger, with about three hooks, and with which
+excellent sport may sometimes be had when it would be impossible
+to fish in any other way.</p>
+<p>In float fishing for roach, the bait should be just touching
+the bottom.&nbsp; A good plan adopted by some is to fish with two
+hooks, the bottom one dragging on the bottom, and the upper one
+about three or four inches clear of the bottom.&nbsp; This is an
+advantage in fast streams, as it retards the onward motion of the
+float, the bait is more easily taken, and the swims are not
+passed so rapidly.</p>
+<h3>BREAM.</h3>
+<p><i>1.&nbsp; Where found at different periods of the
+year</i>?</p>
+<p>During summer, on the Yare, principally between Langley Dyke
+and Reedham; in winter often found in good quantity in the
+vicinity of Thorpe Broad and about Carrow and Trowse Hythe.&nbsp;
+On the Bure they appear to congregate in the deep waters of the
+Broads in winter, and make their appearance about the end of May
+and through the summer on the river.</p>
+<p><i>2.&nbsp; Best periods to fish for them</i>?</p>
+<p>July and August.</p>
+<p><a name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+162</span><i>3.&nbsp; What time of day at different
+seasons</i>?</p>
+<p>Good catches of bream are often had in early morning.&nbsp; I
+have, on the other hand, had capital sport by moonlight.</p>
+<p>For further notes, see answer to same question on
+&ldquo;Roach.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><i>4.&nbsp; What depth of water</i>?</p>
+<p>The deepest waters and quietest eddies are, as a rule, the
+best; but I have caught large quantities of fine bream at
+Wroxham, on the Bure, in not more than four feet and a half of
+water.</p>
+<p><i>5.&nbsp; How affected by the tide</i>?</p>
+<p>Generally speaking, the most fish are taken from about half an
+hour before high water to half an hour after.&nbsp; For further
+notes, see &ldquo;Roach.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><i>6.&nbsp; What ground-bait</i>?</p>
+<p>Boiled maize, boiled barley grains, barley meal made up into
+balls, chopped worms, boiled rice.&nbsp; This latter and grains I
+have found very killing on the Bure.</p>
+<p><i>7.&nbsp; Are places ever baited beforehand</i>?</p>
+<p>Mostly overnight, where there is a fair opportunity of doing
+so.&nbsp; This mode is very telling on Broads and other still
+waters.</p>
+<p><i>8.&nbsp; What baits are most successful</i>?</p>
+<p>For large fish at Cantley, Reedham, Somerleyton, and other
+deep swift waters, ledger fishing, with the tail end of a lobworm
+on the hook, is a capital bait.&nbsp; Generally speaking,
+however, I have found &ldquo;brandlings&rdquo; the most <a
+name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>killing,
+and have found a brandling with a gentle placed on the point of
+the hook will sometimes be taken readily when no other bait would
+be touched.&nbsp; Red paste is often very killing on the
+Bure.</p>
+<p><i>9.&nbsp; What kind of rod</i>?</p>
+<p>Strong and stiff cane or hickory, 15 to 18 feet long, with a
+good stout top joint, on the Yare.&nbsp; Shorter will do on the
+Bure.</p>
+<p><i>10.&nbsp; Number of hook</i>?</p>
+<p>The finest catch I ever had was with No. 12 hooks.&nbsp; This
+was, however, in comparatively shallow water.&nbsp; Should say
+that No. 7 or 8 would be very good sizes for bream fishing
+generally.</p>
+<p><i>11.&nbsp; Is running tackle advisable</i>?</p>
+<p>See &ldquo;Roach.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><i>12.&nbsp; Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of
+line</i>?</p>
+<p>See &ldquo;Roach.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><i>13.&nbsp; What kind of float</i>?</p>
+<p>See &ldquo;Roach.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><i>14.&nbsp; Is line heavily shotted</i>?</p>
+<p>In a similar way to that recommended for roach, but having the
+bulk of shot placed nearer the hook, it being necessary that the
+bait should &ldquo;drag&rdquo; the bottom.</p>
+<p><i>15.&nbsp; Is float best attached by lower end only</i>?</p>
+<p>As the bream bites more slowly and certain than the roach,
+this is quite immaterial.&nbsp; I prefer float attached top and
+bottom.</p>
+<p><a name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+164</span><i>16.&nbsp; Do you strike at first dip</i>?</p>
+<p>A bream bite affects the float with a slight bobbing motion
+for a few seconds, he then runs off with it, and slides it down
+slantingly; strike as he runs off with the bait or the float is
+about to disappear, and you are sure of him.</p>
+<p><i>17</i>.&nbsp; <i>Are the fish much affected by change of
+wind, rain, thick water, etc., and is there any rule on this
+head</i>?</p>
+<p>Bream are rarely taken in any quantity when the waters are
+very clear.&nbsp; See &ldquo;Roach.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><i>18</i>.&nbsp; <i>Is legering successfully practised for
+large bream, and what is the best modus operandi</i>?</p>
+<p>In such rapid waters as those at Reedham, Somerleyton,
+etc.&mdash;no other mode of fishing for bream can be practised
+with any success worth naming&mdash;ledgers for attaching to line
+may be purchased at any tackle shop at 1s. each, and the <i>modus
+operandi</i> is very simple, and by no means scientific.&nbsp;
+The rod requires to be very strong and of fair length, and three
+or four rods may be used from one boat at the same time.</p>
+<p><i>19.&nbsp; Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or
+loud talking frightens the fish?</i></p>
+<p>Bream are very sensitive to noise, especially knocking in the
+boat, which invariably sends them off for an indefinite period,
+and should therefore be most carefully avoided.</p>
+<p><i>20.&nbsp; Name some of the best catches you have made or
+known of</i>.</p>
+<p><a name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 165</span>About
+ten years ago, had, in company with a friend, a catch of 17 stone
+in one day on Wroxham Broad, and with only one rod each.&nbsp;
+Have heard of many catches from time to time of from 4 to 10 or
+12 stone, but am unable now to give names or dates.</p>
+<p><i>21.&nbsp; What is the reason of the non-success of strange
+anglers which is so noticeable</i>?</p>
+<p>See &ldquo;Roach.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>N.B.&nbsp; In fishing for bream, the bait should always drag
+on the bottom.</p>
+<h2>YACHTING.</h2>
+<p>It will have been gathered from the foregoing pages that the
+Rivers and Broads of Norfolk and Suffolk present exceptional
+facilities for small-boat sailing and smooth-water yachting,
+better, perhaps, than any other part of England.&nbsp; There are
+two yachting clubs, the Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club and the
+Yare Sailing Club, the latter a very flourishing institution,
+furnishing four or five regattas in the year for small 4-ton
+yachts and open boats.</p>
+<p>There are numbers of suitable yachts for hire, but, owing to
+the frequent changes of ownership, it is not practicable to give
+a list of those who have boats for hire, which would be of any
+use.&nbsp; Enquiry at the inns at Oulton, and advertisements in
+the Yarmouth and <a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+166</span>Norwich papers will generally elicit suitable
+answers.&nbsp; Bullen, of Oulton, is a likely man to have a yacht
+to let.&nbsp; Open sailing-boats with awnings to sleep under, and
+small cabin yachts of four to ten tons, can be obtained of
+Loynes, Wroxham; and comfortable craft they are.&nbsp; The
+awnings of the small boats are waterproof, and most ingeniously
+constructed, and the boats can be rowed or sailed anywhere.&nbsp;
+Loynes may be trusted to provide everything that is necessary for
+comfort, and his yachts and boats are largely patronized.&nbsp;
+They are all rigged Una fashion, with one sail, and are very
+easily managed.&nbsp; Canoes and rowing boats are in plenty at
+the riverside, at Norwich, Yarmouth, and Oulton.</p>
+<p>As before stated, the goods traffic on the river is carried on
+by means of sailing craft of from 20 to 70 tons burthen, called
+wherries.&nbsp; These are long, shallow, graceful vessels, with
+an enormous mast, supporting one enormous sail.&nbsp; The sail is
+spread by a long gaff, but there is no boom.&nbsp; There is only
+one halyard, and the sail is hoisted by means of a winch at the
+foot of the mast.&nbsp; There is no rigging to the mast except
+the forestay, which is mainly of use for lowering the mast, the
+latter being balanced on the tabernacle by a ton and a half of
+lead on its heel, so that it is raised as easily as it is
+lowered.&nbsp; These wherries sail very fast, very close to the
+wind, and are often managed by one man.&nbsp; Yachts built on the
+wherry plan are very comfortable craft, and easily managed.</p>
+<p><a name="page167"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+167</span>Wherries are frequently hired by private parties, the
+hatches are raised a plank or two higher to give greater
+head-room, the clean-swept hold is divided into several rooms,
+and a capital floating house is extemporized.</p>
+<p>There is now quite a fleet of permanently-fitted pleasure
+wherries on the rivers, which have ample accommodation for a
+party or family, and are to be hired at from 8 to 15 guineas a
+week.</p>
+<p>A good way of seeing the rivers, if you have no boat, is to
+give a wherryman a small sum to take you with him when he makes a
+passage.&nbsp; There are always numbers of wherries leaving
+Norwich and Yarmouth, and if you hail the one you fancy, you will
+be readily taken on board.&nbsp; Thus you might sail from Norwich
+to Yarmouth one day, up to Wroxham the next, back to Yarmouth and
+up to Beccles, at an expenditure of half-a-crown a day and
+refreshments.&nbsp; I am sure that visitors to either Yarmouth or
+Lowestoft will do well to avail themselves of this
+suggestion.</p>
+<p>The navigation is controlled by Acts of Parliament, but
+pleasure yachts are exempt from tolls, except, of course, at
+locks and Haddiscoe lift bridge.</p>
+<p>The rule of the road is very strictly adhered to by the
+wherries and local yachts, and necessarily so; but it is a point
+of honour not to harass business wherries if it can be avoided,
+as these are sailed for a livelihood, while yachtsmen sail for
+pleasure.&nbsp; Therefore, if there is a doubt, give the wherry
+the benefit of it.</p>
+<p><a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 168</span>It is
+also a point of prudence not to cross a wherry&rsquo;s bows too
+closely, as they would soon smash up a yacht.&nbsp; If you are
+civil to a wherryman he will be most civil to you, and
+don&rsquo;t slang him if he doesn&rsquo;t at once give way for
+you to pass him.</p>
+<p>The following racing regulations of the Yacht Clubs simply
+epitomise the custom and practice on the rivers, and must be
+adhered to:</p>
+<p>&ldquo;That if two yachts be standing for the shore of any
+river or broad, and the yacht to leeward be likely to run aground
+or foul any bottom or bank, or not be able to stay without the
+windward yacht running foul of her, the windward yacht must be
+put about upon being hailed by the member of the Club who may be
+in charge of the leeward yacht; the yacht to leeward must also go
+about at the same time as the yacht she hails.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;That in sailing to windward the yacht on the port tack
+must give way to the yacht on the starboard tack, and in case of
+collision, the owner of the vessel on the port tack shall be
+liable to pay all damages that may occur, and forfeit all claim
+to the prize.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;That any yacht bearing away or altering her course to
+windward or leeward, provided there is no obstruction to prevent
+her keeping her course, thereby compelling another vessel to go
+out of her course, shall forfeit all claim to the prize.&nbsp; In
+running before the wind, the side the leading vessel carries her
+main boom is to be considered the lee side.</p>
+<p><a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+169</span>&ldquo;A yacht overhauling another may pass to windward
+or leeward; and when near the shore or shallow water, or when
+rounding any mark, flag, or buoy, <i>if the bowsprit of the yacht
+astern overlap any portion of the hull of the yacht ahead</i>,
+the latter must immediately give way and allow the former to pass
+between her and such shore, shallow water, mark, flag, or buoy;
+and should any yacht not give way or compel another to touch the
+ground, or to foul any mark, flag, or buoy, the yacht so
+compelling her shall forfeit all claim to the prize, her owner
+shall pay all damage that may occur, and the yacht so compelled
+to touch such mark, flag, or buoy shall not in this case suffer
+any penalty for such contact.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It is an established rule, and should be most strictly
+attended to by all yachtsmen, that where two vessels have to
+cross each other on opposite tacks, the one on the starboard tack
+must invariably keep her wind, and the one on the port tack must
+keep away and pass to leeward, or tack short when the smallest
+doubt exists of her not being able to weather the other.&nbsp;
+All expenses of damage incurred by vessels on opposite tacks
+running on board each other, fall upon the one on the port tack;
+but where the one on the starboard tack has kept away with the
+intention of passing to leeward, and they have come in contact,
+the expenses of damage fall upon her on the starboard tack,
+because by her keeping away she may have prevented the other
+passing to leeward.&nbsp; When a vessel on the starboard tack
+sees another <a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+170</span>attempting to weather her, when it does not seem
+possible, rather than keep away, she should put her helm down,
+for the less way vessels have when they come in contact, the less
+damage they will sustain.&nbsp; Should both vessels put their
+helms up and run on board each other, the most fatal consequences
+may arise, and therefore nothing should induce the vessel on the
+starboard tack to keep away.&nbsp; All vessels going free must
+give way to those on a wind.&rdquo;</p>
+<h2>SHOOTING AND SKATING.</h2>
+<p>This district is well worth a visit in the winter time, for
+the wild-fowl shooting on the tidal portions of the rivers is
+free (of course you must not trespass on the marshes for shooting
+purposes, as the shooting along them is strictly
+preserved).&nbsp; The usual plan is to row along the river while
+your dogs work through the reeds on the bank inside the river
+wall, or embankment, which generally runs parallel with the
+rivers on each side.&nbsp; Flight shooting is also successfully
+pursued, but of course you must obtain information as to the best
+spots in the line of flight.&nbsp; Oulton Broad is free, but is
+much shot over.&nbsp; Breydon Water is a capital fowling-ground
+in hard winters.&nbsp; It is the &ldquo;happy hunting
+ground&rdquo; of Yarmouth gunners.&nbsp; An easily managed
+sailing-boat of light draught is useful for this kind of
+work.</p>
+<p><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+171</span>Winter time on the Broads is very enjoyable.&nbsp;
+Being so shallow, the Broads are soon frozen, and the skating is
+then simply superb.&nbsp; Fancy Hickling, a lake of 400 acres,
+safe all over, with the ice as clear and hard as glass, <i>and
+plenty of &ldquo;elbow-room</i>&rdquo; for ice-boats as well as
+skaters.</p>
+<p>It would be worth while for skating parties to come down for a
+few days at a time while the frosts last, instead of struggling
+amid the crowds which beset London waters.</p>
+<h2>FAUNA OF THE BROADS.</h2>
+<p>I cannot do more than cursorily mention the abundant life
+which teems amid the Broads.&nbsp; I would refer the reader, for
+a full account of the life of the Broads thirty years ago and
+now, to that charming book, worthy to be ranked with &ldquo;The
+Complete Angler,&rdquo; and &ldquo;The Natural History of
+Selborne,&rdquo; &ldquo;Observations on the Fauna of Norfolk, and
+more particularly on the District of the Broads,&rdquo; by the
+Rev. Richard Lubbock, M.A., a new edition of which, with suitable
+notes by Mr. Thomas Southwell, has lately been issued by Messrs.
+Jarrold and Sons, London and Norwich.&nbsp; This book, together
+with Stevenson&rsquo;s &ldquo;Birds of Norfolk,&rdquo; are
+necessary companions to the ornithologist on the Broads.&nbsp;
+For a fuller general descriptive account of the district, I may
+also refer the reader to my own larger book, &ldquo;Norfolk
+Broads and Rivers,&rdquo; published by Blackwood.</p>
+<p><a name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 172</span>Of
+course, water-fowl predominate.&nbsp; The heron, the
+great-crested grebe, the coot and water-hen are constantly to be
+seen.&nbsp; Dabchicks abound in places.&nbsp; I have seen a score
+together in some open water, at Surlingham, during a frost.&nbsp;
+Kingfishers are seen occasionally; water-ouzels never in the
+navigable waters.&nbsp; Wild ducks, widgeon, teal, and other
+ducks, gulls, terns, and waders of many species, hawks, kestrels,
+marsh harriers, and hen harriers are occasionally met with,
+particularly about Hickling.&nbsp; Owls, reed wrens, reed
+buntings, and bearded tits (I know a colony of the latter), and
+other birds occur to me as I write, but detailed lists of the
+Norfolk species will be found in the &ldquo;Transactions of the
+Norfolk and Norwich Naturalists&rsquo; Society&rdquo; of past
+years.&nbsp; It is sufficient to say that not only in the
+department of ornithology, but of entomology and botany, the
+specialist will find abundant work.&nbsp; During the days and
+nights I have spent in the more secluded parts of the waters, and
+particularly in the very early hours after daybreak, I have
+watched the habits of certain rare species, and discovered their
+haunts, which I would not reveal for anything, for to do so would
+be to expose them to the ravages of collectors.&nbsp; I am not a
+collector myself, nor have I the remotest pretension to science,
+but I am an enthusiastic student of what I may call the
+&ldquo;home-life&rdquo; of birds and animals.&nbsp; Therefore I
+cannot give accurate scientific information, in the shape of
+lists of Broad species without borrowing from the labours of
+others, <a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+173</span>and the clothing the dry bones with flesh would require
+more space than a guide-book will allow.&nbsp; But let a man lie
+in a boat, amid the reeds, for an hour of the silvery dawn, and
+watch a pair of great-crested grebes, feeding their young ones
+with small fish, and teaching them to dive and catch fish also,
+all so close that you might at times touch the birds with a
+fishing-rod, and he will partly understand what to me is the
+charm of Natural History.&nbsp; And for the romance of it there
+is no place like the reed-surrounded Broad and its marshy
+borders.</p>
+<h2>Footnotes.</h2>
+<p><a name="footnote29"></a><a href="#citation29"
+class="footnote">[29]</a>&nbsp; This bridge was the scene of a
+most disastrous railway collision, in September, 1874, when two
+trains met, and an appalling loss of life resulted, 25 persons
+being killed, and 60 or 70 injured.</p>
+<p><a name="footnote70"></a><a href="#citation70"
+class="footnote">[70]</a>&nbsp; [Note.&nbsp; This is left as
+first written, but it is necessary now to say that since the
+death of Mr. Chamberlin, the owners of the Broad have obtained a
+decision in the Superior Courts that the public have no right to
+fish on Wroxham Broad, and although the navigation question has
+not been raised, the owners claim the Broad to be private
+property.&nbsp; At the same time they courteously disclaim any
+intention of closing the Broad to the reasonable enjoyment of the
+public.&nbsp; Sailing on the Broad is freely permitted, but
+yachts are not allowed to moor there at night, on account, it is
+said, of the unavoidable refuse floating against the private
+pleasure grounds of the owners.&nbsp; Persons also are not
+allowed to land.&nbsp; It is to be hoped that the good behaviour
+of the public will remove all idea of closing the Broad to the
+public, which would be nothing short of a calamity.&nbsp; The
+regattas on this Broad which used to be such sources of
+amusement, have been quite discontinued, partly on account of the
+difficulty in getting the present racing craft up the North
+River, and partly through the reluctance of yacht owners to ask
+the favour of sailing where they formerly supposed they had a
+right.]</p>
+<p><a name="footnote91"></a><a href="#citation91"
+class="footnote">[91]</a>&nbsp; Sometimes called Wannick, or
+Wandyke, said to be a corruption of Swandyke.</p>
+<p><a name="footnote160"></a><a href="#citation160"
+class="footnote">[160]</a>&nbsp; Stone = 14 lbs.</p>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HANDBOOK TO THE RIVERS AND
+BROADS OF NORFOLK &amp; SUFFOLK***</p>
+<pre>
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Handbook to the Rivers and Broads of
+Norfolk & Suffolk, by G. Christopher Davies
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Handbook to the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk & Suffolk
+
+
+Author: G. Christopher Davies
+
+
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2011 [eBook #35954]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HANDBOOK TO THE RIVERS AND
+BROADS OF NORFOLK & SUFFOLK***
+
+
+This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.
+
+ [Picture: Wroxham Broad]
+
+ Jarrolds' "Holiday" Series.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+
+ THE HANDBOOK
+ TO THE
+ RIVERS AND BROADS
+ OF
+ NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
+
+
+ BY
+ G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES,
+ _Author of_ "_Norfolk Broads and Rivers_," "_The Swan and her Crew_,"
+ _etc., etc_.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ REVISED AND ENLARGED.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ EIGHTEENTH EDITION.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ JARROLD AND SONS,
+ 3, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON;
+ LONDON AND EXCHANGE STREETS, NORWICH.
+
+ BRANCHES: 182, KING STREET, GREAT YARMOUTH;
+ THE LIBRARY, CROMER.
+
+ (_All rights reserved_.)
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+_Chapter_ _Page_
+ INTRODUCTION. xi
+ I. THE BROAD DISTRICT. 17
+ II. DOWN THE YARE--NORWICH TO REEDHAM. 22
+ III. REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH. 43
+ IV. YARMOUTH TO ACLE. 51
+ V. ACLE TO WROXHAM. 57
+ VI. WROXHAM BROAD. 68
+ VII. WROXHAM TO COLTISHALL. 75
+ VIII. UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 81
+ IX. WOMACK BROAD. 91
+ X. HICKLING BROAD. 98
+ XI. HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD. 106
+ XII. BACK TO YARMOUTH. 114
+ XIII. YARMOUTH TO SOMERLEYTON, UP THE WAVENEY. 117
+ XIV. FROM SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLES. 124
+ XV. OULTON BROAD. 129
+ XVI. ORMESBY AND FRITTON. 136
+ APPENDIX.
+RAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS 138
+NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT 143
+TABLES OF RIVER DISTANCES 148
+TIDES 151
+FISHING GENERALLY 151
+ ROACH 155
+ BREAM 161
+YACHTING 165
+SHOOTING AND SKATING 170
+FAUNA OF THE BROADS 171
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+ _Page_
+WROXHAM BROAD _Frontispiece_
+A POOL IN SURLINGHAM BROAD xvi
+PULL'S FERRY 22
+BISHOP'S BRIDGE 25
+BOOM TOWER 26
+THORPE GARDENS 29
+A NORFOLK WHERRY 30
+ON THE YARE, AT BRAMERTON 33
+ON ROCKLAND BROAD 36
+LANGLEY DYKE 38
+ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH, GREAT YARMOUTH 41
+THE QUAY, GREAT YARMOUTH 45
+A "ROW," GREAT YARMOUTH 49
+ST. BENET'S ABBEY 54
+COTTAGE, SOUTH WALSHAM BROAD 58
+HORNING VILLAGE 60
+RANWORTH CHURCH 61
+HORNING FERRY 67
+BELAUGH CHURCH 73
+DYKE NEAR COLTISHALL 76
+LUDHAM BRIDGE 78
+RIVER BURE AT HAUTBOIS 79
+A WOODLAND POOL--IRSTEAD 82
+ENTRANCE--BARTON BROAD 87
+CARRYING REEDS--BARTON 88
+BARTON STAITHE 90
+ORMESBY BROAD--LANDING STAGE 91
+DRAINAGE MILL--RIVER THURNE 92
+RIVER THURNE 92
+HICKLING BROAD 99
+DYKE AT POTTER HEIGHAM 100
+HICKLING STAITHE 104
+MARTHAM BROAD 105
+SOUND ASLEEP 108
+SOMERLEYTON HALL 120
+RIVER WAVENEY 128
+OULTON BROAD 130
+FRITTON DECOY 137
+ORMESBY BROAD--LANDING STAGE 152
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+Since the first appearance of this Handbook, and the larger volume on the
+same subject, which the preface to the first edition stated to be in
+contemplation, the Broad District has become highly popular. Each year
+the tourist stream increases, but, happily, there is still plenty of
+room. No doubt some of the old _habitues_, who liked to have the whole
+landscape to themselves, grumble at the change, but the less selfish
+persons, who happily constitute the majority, do not object to seeing a
+dozen yachts where formerly they saw but one, or a score of anglers where
+in past years but half-a-dozen might be seen.
+
+A large trade has arisen in the letting of yachts, boats, and pleasure
+wherries for cruising purposes; but the inn accommodation has made little
+advance, and is still too meagre, and insufficient for the demand. The
+yachts have made great strides in speed and in number. The Norfolk and
+Suffolk Yacht Club has flourished exceedingly, and its regattas are
+popular.
+
+Artists have found out the charm of the quiet scenery of the Broads, and
+visit us in great numbers. Notably Mr. E. H. Fahey and Miss Osborn have
+given exhibitions in London devoted to the district. Then _litterateurs_
+without number have written magazine and newspaper articles, and others,
+after a few days' scamper, have written exhaustive guide-books; and so
+the ball, which the present writer set rolling in earnest some years ago,
+is helped merrily forward, and the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk and
+Suffolk are fast becoming one of the most popular of English playgrounds.
+
+I should like to put the brake on a little in one respect. One
+guide-book writer appears to treat the riverside meadows as commons, and
+suggests that yachtsmen should bring lawn-tennis sets and cricket
+materials with them. Pray don't take such absurd advice. All riparian
+owners adhere stoutly to their just rights. It must be remembered that
+the rights of the public are limited to _passage along_ the navigable
+rivers and the navigable broads, and the use of the banks of navigable
+waters for mooring purposes and for towing. The soil of the greater part
+of the river-beds is vested in the Crown, therefore angling is free to
+the public. Strictly speaking, the shooting over the Crown rivers is
+free, but this does not give persons a right to shoot an inch over the
+banks. Looking to the fact that the Bure is very narrow, and passes
+through private game preserves, let me earnestly entreat visitors not to
+fire off guns either at birds or at bottles (which last amusement appears
+to be a favourite one) above Acle bridge. The sport to the visitors is
+_nil_, while the annoyance to the riparian owners is extreme. The
+riparian owners are generally willing to afford the well-behaved public
+all reasonable facilities for enjoyment. Let this be repaid by the
+public refraining from potting away at waterhens and pigeons, or other
+birds on the banks.
+
+It may be well to add that, up to about the year 1830, the Broads and wet
+marshes were simply waste; but by the Enclosure Acts and Awards, these
+watery commons were allotted and divided among the neighbouring
+landowners. In some cases the rights of navigation and staithes were
+expressly reserved. In others no reservation was made, and the Broads
+are absolutely in the hands of private owners. In other cases again,
+staithes and rights of way have grown into disuse, and channels have
+become choked up by mud and vegetation. In no case, however, has the
+right of the Crown to the bed of the common river been affected or
+changed by the Enclosure Awards.
+
+A great point to remember is, that the possessors of the Broads set as
+much store by their bulrushes and water lilies as the admiring visitor;
+therefore, do not gather any off the Broads. All flowers and grasses
+which grow in such luxuriance by the riverside, within the river wall, or
+the three yards from the river margin where the navigator has an
+indefeasible right, may as well be gathered for pleasure as die and rot.
+Here there is abundance for everyone; but to penetrate into quiet nooks
+of Broads and help oneself to other people's valued property, is an
+indefensible act, which by oft repetition has much irritated owners
+against the public. It is in this respect also that visitors from a
+distance are most prone to err, because, without reflection, it appears
+that no harm is done. Nor would there be much harm in a single instance,
+but "many a little makes a mickle."
+
+As a general rule, visitors from a distance behave exceedingly well,
+being educated persons with a due sense of law and order. The bottle
+shooters, coot potters, and noisy revellers, the swan's egg robbers and
+grebe destroyers, the persons who use one's boat-houses as luncheon rooms
+or dust bins are, unfortunately, home products. Of course, I hear of all
+offences that are committed, and by some people I am actually saddled
+with the responsibility of any breach of good manners on the part of the
+public, because I am supposed to have brought the latter to the Broads.
+I therefore beg the large unknown public (of whose friendliness to me as
+an author I have had so many proofs), when they visit the Broads, not to
+allow the exhilaration of an enjoyable holiday to interfere with a due
+propriety of behaviour.
+
+The hitherto unwritten rules of the Rivers and Broads are these:--
+
+Do not, in the neighbourhood of other yachts or houses, indulge in songs
+and revelry after eleven p.m., even at regatta times.
+
+Bathe only before eight o'clock in the morning, if in sight of other
+vessels or moored in a frequented part of the river. Ladies are not
+expected to turn out before eight, but after that time they are entitled
+to be free from any annoyance. Young men who lounge in a nude state on
+boats while ladies are passing (and I have known Norwich youths to do
+this) may be saluted with dust shot, or the end of a quant.
+
+Adhere strictly to the rule of the road when boating, according to the
+instructions contained in a subsequent chapter, and when angling, moor
+out of the way of sailing craft, as afterwards explained.
+
+Do not throw straw or paper overboard to float to leeward and become
+offensive; but burn, or take care to sink all rubbish.
+
+Do not light fires, place stoves, or throw refuse on the banks in the
+path of others, whose yachts may be moored to the same bank.
+
+Steam launches must not run at full speed past yachts moored to the bank,
+particularly when the occupants of the latter have things spread out for
+a meal.
+
+Don't take guns on board unless you have leave to shoot on somebody's
+land.
+
+Remember that sound travels a long way on the water, and do not criticise
+the people you may encounter with too loud a voice.
+
+Don't go on a friend's yacht with nailed shoes (the commodore of a Thames
+sailing club once came on board mine in cricket shoes armed with spikes).
+Don't knock the ashes out of your pipe into his boat, and don't catch
+small fish and litter his decks with them, leaving them for him to clean
+up after you.
+
+ [Picture: A pool in Burlingham Broad]
+
+Don't moor outside another yacht without the permission of its owner.
+
+Ladies, please don't gather armfuls of flowers, berries, and grasses
+which, when faded, you leave in the boat or yacht for the unfortunate
+skipper to clear up. Don't play the piano in season and out of season
+(the reedbird's song is sweeter on the Broads); and don't turn out before
+eight o'clock in the morning when other yachts are near.
+
+Observing all these simple maxims, any number of visitors will find
+plenty of room for their own enjoyment, without offence to anyone.
+
+ [Picture: View of Sailing boats and Yachts]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+THE "BROAD" DISTRICT.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] It is somewhat difficult to analyse
+the charm which the "Broad" District of Norfolk and Suffolk has for those
+who have once made its acquaintance in the only way in which an intimate
+knowledge of it can be gained.
+
+In a journey through it by rail, you see nothing but its flatness; walk
+along its roads, you see the dullest side of it; but take to its
+water-highways, and the glamour of it steals over you, if you have aught
+of the love of nature, the angler, or the artist in you.
+
+One reason may be that the rivers are highways. From them you view
+things as from a different standpoint; along them flows a current of life
+differing from that on either rail or road: the wind is your servant,
+sometimes your master; there is an uncertainty in the issue of the day's
+proceedings, which to an idle holidaymaker is most delightful, and the
+slowly-moving water is more like a living companion than any other
+inanimate thing can be. Houses are few and far between. Oftentimes
+within the circle of your sight there is neither house nor man visible.
+A grey church tower, a windmill, or the dark-brown sail of a wherry in
+the distance breaks the sense of utter loneliness, but the scene is wild
+enough to enchain the imagination of many. Long miles of sinuous
+gleaming river, marshes gay with innumerable flowering plants, wide
+sheets of water bordered with swaying reeds, yachts or wherries, boats,
+fish, fowl, and rare birds and plants, and exquisite little bits to paint
+and sketch--these are the elements out of which a pleasant holiday may be
+made.
+
+I wrote these lines whilst at anchor on Salhouse Little Broad. The
+evening was most still and placid, and the boat lay motionless among the
+lily leaves which covered the water around. The white lilies had so
+closed their petals that but the faintest morsels of white peeped out;
+but the yellow, which were most numerous, did not close so completely,
+and the dark interspaces of water were thickly starred with the golden
+globes. Beyond the lily leaves was a belt of tall reeds, swayed only by
+the birds which have their home among them. The yellow iris flowers made
+the narrow neck of marsh ablaze with colour. Bounding the view was a
+cordon of trees; on the one side a wooded bank; on the other, but out of
+sight, the river. A rustic boathouse nestled amid the trees, white swans
+lighted up the dark shades, moorhens led their broods across the pool;
+the western clouds were edged with sunset glories, and the reflections in
+the water were as perfect as the things they copy. But though there was
+absolute calm, the lily leaves were not still, but moved tremulously, and
+sent ripples on either side. Looking closely, you saw that the leaves
+were covered with small insects, and the small roach were busily plucking
+them off the under side. You could hear the little snap or suck the
+fishes made, and once you caught the sound you found the air was full of
+these snaps, and a most weird effect the sound gave. The roach crowded
+eagerly round to eat the crumbs that I threw them. So fearless were
+they, that when I put my hand into the water and held it quite still for
+a while, they came and snapped at my fingers, and funny little tickling
+scrapes they gave. I actually succeeded in grasping one or two of the
+boldest. A piece of paper, which had been crumpled up and thrown on the
+water, was being urged to and fro by the hungry little fish, who tried to
+find it eatable, and tugged at it bravely.
+
+The clouds darkened. I went into my cabin as a squall of wind and rain
+came on. The thunder grew louder and louder, and there, alone, with the
+tempest raging, I could yet write that the end of the evening was as
+pleasant as the beginning, so great to me is the charm of the water.
+
+I slung my hammock, hoping that on the following day the sun would shine,
+the wind would blow, and the hours would pass as quickly as the boat
+sailed, and slept as sound as man may.
+
+It has happened that I have written a good deal about these waters--too
+much, some people say. One result has been that I have been pretty well
+overpowered with correspondence arising from persons making enquiries
+about the district, with a view to visiting it; therefore, when the
+publishers requested me to write a kind of handbook or guide to the
+Broads and Rivers, I thought it a good idea, in that enquirers might, by
+buying such a book, save themselves the trouble of writing to me, and
+getting necessarily short and inadequate replies. I am afraid, however,
+the guide-book style is rather beyond me, and I shall be most at home if
+I try to convey the requisite information by describing one of the
+numerous cruises in which I have sailed as guide to those friends who
+have trusted their holidays to my care, and I will select one lasting but
+a fortnight, during which time we covered most of the available ground.
+
+Before doing so, a few words, descriptive of the situation of these
+rivers and lakes, will not be amiss.
+
+From Yarmouth, looking inland, three main water-highways radiate. The
+chief is the Yare, flowing from the westward; then comes the Bure,
+flowing from the north-westward, and having her large tributaries, the
+Ant and the Thurne, flowing from the northward. From the south-west come
+the clear waters of the Waveney. All these rivers are navigable for
+considerable distances, and on the Bure and its tributaries the greater
+number of the Broads are situate. These Broads are large shallow lakes,
+connected with the rivers, and are many of them navigable. Flat marshes
+follow the lines of the rivers, and while higher and well-wooded ground
+rises near the upper portions of the rivers, near the sea the country is
+perfectly flat, and vessels sailing on all three rivers are visible at
+the same time.
+
+The level of the marsh is frequently below that of the rivers, and at the
+outlet of each main drain is a drainage pump, or turbine wheel, sometimes
+worked by a windmill, and sometimes by steam, which pumps the water out
+of the drains into the rivers.
+
+The fall of the river is about four inches to the mile. The ebb and flow
+of the tide are felt for thirty miles inland, but its rise and fall are
+very little indeed. There are no impediments to navigation of any
+consequence, so it may be imagined what a "happy hunting ground" this is
+to the boat-sailor, the naturalist, and the angler.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter end divider]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header divider]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+DOWN THE YARE. NORWICH TO REEDHAM.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] "Do you mean to say," said Wynne,
+"that these Broads are worth my giving up a few days to seeing them?"
+
+"If you will give up a fortnight, I promise you that you will find it too
+short. You went to the Friesland Meres years ago, and enjoyed it. You
+will like these quite as well."
+
+ [Picture: Pull's Ferry]
+
+So he promised to come for a fortnight, rather reluctantly, and when, on
+his arrival in Norwich, he took a preliminary canter by rail to Yarmouth,
+he refused to say anything about what he thought of the country, which
+looked ominous. We had hired a ten-ton cutter, and she was lying at
+Thorpe, a mile and a half below the city. The man we had engaged rowed
+the jolly-boat up for us, and as Wynne was enthusiastic about old
+buildings, we rowed him up the river to the New Mills, a very old mill,
+which spans the river Wensum near its entrance into the city. From
+thence we came back along the narrow sinuous river, overhung with
+buildings, many of them ancient and picturesque, under numerous bridges,
+wharves where wherries were loading or unloading, using the half-lowered
+mast as cranes, past the Boom Tower, still keeping watch and ward over
+the river; quaint Bishops' Bridge; Pull's Ferry, where there is a ruined
+water gate, often sketched and photographed; past the railway station,
+into the reach parallel with King Street, where gables, and archways, and
+courts delight the painter. Here, on the left bank, is another Boom
+Tower, built of flint, the universal building-stone of Norfolk, faced by
+another tower on the opposite bank, whence runs a fine piece of the old
+city wall up the hill to another and larger tower, in better
+preservation, on the summit. Then we next passed the very extensive
+works of Messrs. J. and J. Colman, and below them innumerable stacks of
+choice wood, out of which the boxes to contain the mustard, etc., are
+made.
+
+ [Picture: Bishop's Bridge]
+
+ [Picture: Boom Tower]
+
+"You speak of this as the Wensum," said Wynne; "I thought it was the
+Yare."
+
+"This river is the Wensum, but this smaller stream coming in on the right
+is the true Yare, and from this point the united river takes the name of
+the Yare. This spot is called Trowse Hythe, and half a mile up it, where
+there is a mill, was once a famous spot for smelts, where they were
+caught by large casting nets, used at night by torch-light, but the town
+sewage has effectually spoiled the smelting. The pool below the New
+Mills was also a place where the smelts were caught in large numbers, but
+it is not so good now."
+
+ [Picture: Thorpe Gardens]
+
+Presently we came to Thorpe, where a bend of the river has been cut off
+by two railway bridges, and a straight new cut made for the navigation.
+We took the old river, and Wynne was charmed with the view which then
+unfolded itself. The long curve of the river was lined on the outer bank
+by picturesque houses, with gardens leading to the water's edge, while
+behind them rose a well-wooded bank. In the autumn of 1879 this reach
+was found to be swarming with pike, and it speedily swarmed with anglers,
+who had generally good sport until, apparently, all the pike were caught.
+At intervals since, there have been similar immigrations of pike to this
+reach when tides unusually high or salt drive the fish up from the lower
+reaches. At the lower end of the reach is a favourite resort on summer
+evenings, a waterside inn, known as Thorpe Gardens, where we pulled up.
+Here there are also boat-letting stations, where cruising yachts can be
+hired.
+
+Just through the bridge, {29} we joined the main river again, and noticed
+several yachts moored against the bank, amongst which was ours.
+
+Wynne stepped on board, curious to inspect a Norfolk yacht, and he freely
+commented on her enormous counter, short keel, great open well, and tall
+pole-mast. In a short time we stowed all our belongings, and set
+sail--mainsail, jib, and topsail--the spread of canvas rather startling
+Wynne, who had only been used to sea yachts. There was a light
+north-westerly wind, and we glided swiftly away before it. But ere we
+had sailed a couple of hundred yards, Wynne insisted on our stopping to
+sketch the White House, at Whitlingham, which, with the trees on the
+hill, the wood-shaded reach of river, and the huge brown sails of the
+wherries, formed a picture we might well wish to carry away. Wynne often
+stopped in this way, to the intense disgust of our man, who liked to make
+his passages quickly, and had no sympathy with artistic amusements.
+
+The dyke leading out of the river by the White House is a regular harbour
+for pike, which is continually restocked from the river. It is private
+property, but just at the mouth of the dyke, in the navigable river, is a
+good spot. At least three hundred pike were taken here last winter by
+Norwich artisans.
+
+"What graceful craft these wherries, as you call them, are!" remarked
+Wynne, as he rapidly sketched the high-peaked sail of one which was
+slowly beating to windward or "turning," as the vernacular hath it, up
+the narrow river.
+
+[Picture: A Norfolk Wherry] And he was quite right. There is not a line
+that is not graceful about a Norfolk wherry. She has a long low hull
+with a rising sheer to stem and stern, which are both pointed. She has a
+tall and massive mast supporting a single large sail which is without a
+boom, but has a very long gaff launching out boldly at an angle of
+forty-five degrees. The curve of the brown or black sail from the lofty
+peak to the sheet is on all points of sailing a curve of beauty. The
+wherries are trading crafts carrying from twenty to fifty tons of cargo.
+They are manned generally by one man, who sometimes has the aid of his
+wife or children. They are nearly as fast as yachts, sail closer to the
+wind, and are wonderfully handy. The mast is weighted at the keel with
+one or two tons of lead, and is so well balanced that a lad can lower or
+raise it with the greatest ease, when it is necessary to pass under a
+bridge. Wherries are the most conspicuous objects in a Norfolk broad
+landscape, and are in sight for miles, as they follow the winding courses
+of the rivers, often nothing but the sail visible above the green marsh.
+
+Very many of these wherries have been converted into sailing house boats
+or pleasure barges, and so constitute most admirable floating homes for
+those who like cruising with greater comfort than small yachts can give.
+
+It was an hour before we got under way again, and when, after sailing
+down the long straight reach by Whitlingham, we came in sight of the
+eminence known as Postwick Grove, Wynne wished to land in order that he
+might see the view from the top. The man burst into open grumbling, so
+we asked him if the trip were undertaken for his pleasure or ours, and on
+his reluctantly admitting that it was for ours, we told him it was our
+pleasure to do as we liked, and he resigned himself to his fate. The
+watermen on these rivers are very civil, but they look with disfavour
+upon anything which interferes with actual sailing.
+
+Well, the view from Postwick was worth seeing. The curving reaches of
+the river, animated with yachts, wherries, and boats, lay beneath us, and
+the green marshes were bounded by the woods of Thorpe, Whitlingham, and
+Bramerton, while the ruined church of Whitlingham stood boldly on the
+brow of the opposite hill.
+
+Under way again, we presently reached Bramerton, where the "Wood's End"
+public-house offers good cheer to the wherryman and boating-man.
+
+The pleasure-steamers which run between Norwich and Yarmouth afford a
+quick but less pleasant way of seeing the river, and stop at Bramerton
+nearly every day in the week.
+
+Now the higher ground falls away from the river on each side of us, and
+the belt of marshes widens, the river is higher than the surface of the
+land, and the water is lifted out of the many drains and dykes by means
+of turbine wheels, worked by the windmills which form such conspicuous
+objects in the landscape, and by more pretentious steam drainage mills.
+
+ [Picture: On the Yare, at Bramerton]
+
+Surlingham Ferry, 6 miles by river from Norwich, next came into view.
+The house, with its picturesque gables, lies in the shadow of a group of
+fine trees. A horse and cart was being ferried across on the huge raft
+as we approached, and the chain was only just dropped in time for us to
+pass.
+
+There is a good inn at the Ferry, with limited but comfortable staying
+accommodation; and excellent roach fishing is often obtainable. The
+shore above the Ferry on the same side is suitable for mooring yachts to,
+as there is a fair depth of water close to the bank.
+
+"What numbers of boats there are with people fishing?" said Wynne. "Do
+they all catch anything?"
+
+"Oh, yes, any quantity, as far as number goes, of roach, and bream, and
+some good fish too, but the larger fish are caught in the deeper water,
+lower down."
+
+Coldham Hall is the next fishing station of importance. There is a good
+inn there, and plenty of boats for hire at a cheap rate. Fishing and
+other boats can also be obtained at Messrs. H. Flowers and Co.'s new
+boating station, where yachts can be moored and laid up. As the railway
+station (Brundall) is close to it, it is very convenient for anglers.
+The mooring places at Brundall and Coldham Hall are not many, as the
+banks are very shoal. In the reach between Brundall and Coldham Hall
+only the middle third of the river is navigable for yachts; and the same
+may be said of the long reach below Coldham Hall. We could see
+half-a-dozen fishing boats under the lee of the point above the station.
+It seems a favourite place, for I never passed it without seeing
+fishermen there. But as the man had to sail the yacht round the great
+curve of the river, we took a short cut across Surlingham Broad in the
+jolly.
+
+This Broad lies within a horse-shoe bend of the river, and has a
+navigable channel across it. It is not deep enough, however, for yachts
+or laden wherries. The Broad is largely affected by the tide, which
+sometimes leaves its shallows exposed. The river, as I should have said,
+is tidal up to Norwich, and the force of the tide increases with every
+deepening of Yarmouth Haven. We rowed up the dyke which leads on to the
+Broad, a small sheet of water, overgrown with weeds and very shallow, but
+a capital nursery for fish and fowl. The fishing upon it is preserved.
+Rowing across it, we entered another dyke, and emerged into the river
+again, and caught up the yacht.
+
+ [Picture: On Rockland Broad]
+
+Snipe abound on the marshes here, and their drumming can always be heard
+in the early summer. The flat, far-reaching marshes glowed with a
+thousand tints of flower and grass, and the iris gleamed brightly in the
+lush margins of the river. We sailed quietly on, down the curving
+reaches of the widening river, watching the slow-seeming flight of the
+heron, the splash of fish, the bending reeds, and the occasional
+boat-loads of anglers, until we came to the mouth of a dyke, about a mile
+long, up which we again rowed in the jolly, to explore Rockland Broad,
+where the open water is much more extensive than at Surlingham. Here
+there are several eel-fishers' floating abodes, Noah's-ark-like
+structures, with nets and "liggers" dangling about them. The fishing and
+shooting on the Broad are, at present, open to all.
+
+This Broad is also much affected by the tide, as, notwithstanding its
+distance from the river, there are numerous connecting dykes permitting
+easy flow and re-flow of water.
+
+Back in the yacht again, we reached Buckenham Ferry (ten and a half
+miles), a favourite angling rendezvous, with a railway station of the
+same name close by. A long row of trees on the left bank is the cause of
+daily trouble to wherrymen and sailormen, as it shuts off the wind. The
+man who plants trees by the side of a navigable river, where the
+navigation depends upon the wind, is the very reverse of a benefactor to
+mankind, and only selfishness or thoughtlessness can permit such an act.
+
+There is fair mooring for yachts just below the Inn, on the same side,
+but they must be kept well off the shore by poles, or as the tide ebbs
+they will strand and perhaps fall over. The Ferry Inn is noted for its
+comfort; and its limited staying accommodation is good. The fishing is
+very good both up and down the river, and there are good boats for hire
+for fishing purposes.
+
+The river now becomes very wide and deep, and the shoals near the banks,
+which abound in the higher reaches, are not so frequent. I would call
+the especial attention of the river authorities to the disgraceful state
+of the river as far as Buckenham Ferry. Each year the shoals and weeds
+increase, and the channel narrows, until in some places not more than a
+third of the river-width is available for the navigation. The natural
+consequence will be that the navigation must gradually cease to be made
+use of, as it becomes a matter of difficulty, and the railway will take
+the trade, which might be kept to the river if a more energetic care of
+the navigable stream were taken. This is a most serious matter, and
+ought to be attended to.
+
+ [Picture: Langley Dyke]
+
+Next is Langley Dyke, near which are the reaches of the river where the
+principal regattas are held, and by the river side is Cantley Red House
+(fourteen miles). Cantley railway station is very close to the river,
+and as the water is deep close to the bank, and there is some fairly firm
+ground, this is a favourite yachting station, with good mooring to the
+banks. Comfortable quarters may be had at the Red House, and the fishing
+is good all about. A little lower down, on the same side of the river,
+is another house, "Peart's," where one may obtain comfortable
+accommodation, and a "dock" where small boats may be safely left.
+
+We delayed so long on our way that the wind was falling, as it usually
+does towards five o'clock on summer days: the tide had also turned, and
+we had it against us, so our progress was slow. We passed the mouth of
+the Chet on our right, navigable some four miles up to Loddon. Its mouth
+is marked by Hardley Cross, which forms the boundary between the Norwich
+and Yarmouth jurisdictions over the river. We barely made headway as a
+public-house on the left, called Reedham Ferry, was reached, and a little
+lower down we lay to against the "rond," or bank, and made all snug for
+the night. A little further is Reedham village (eighteen miles), which
+is picturesquely situated on high ground on the north bank of the river.
+The railway station is close by, and is the junction between the
+Yarmouth, Lowestoft, and Norwich lines. There is staying accommodation
+to be had at Reedham. Yachts can be moored against the south bank above
+the bridge, but should not be left unguarded, as the tide runs strong,
+and wherries tacking through the bridge often jam up against the bank.
+
+[Picture: Roach] The stove was soon alight, and the kettle on, while we
+walked to the village for eggs and milk. As the gloaming deepened, Wynne
+grew poetical over the scene of wide space there was about us, filled
+then with an orange glow from the west, while the swallows skimmed the
+river, and struck red drops of spray from the surface. Then when the
+awning was spread over the stern sheets, and the lamp lit up the snug
+cabin, Wynne smoked contentedly, to the envy of the writer, who cannot
+smoke; and it was later than it ought to have been ere we lay down in our
+respective bunks, and were lulled to sleep by the ripple of the water
+against the planks.
+
+ [Picture: St. Nicholas' Church, Great Yarmouth]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative Chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] The next morning we were up betimes to
+take the last of the ebb down to Yarmouth, and catch the tide up the
+Bure. As there was a fresh breeze from the east, we had to tack nearly
+the whole of the way.
+
+At Reedham there is a swing bridge, over which the railway passes, and if
+the wind is foul it is always a difficult matter to sail through,
+particularly if the tide be against you. On the present occasion we had
+the tide with us; therefore, on reaching the opening of the bridge, we
+could shoot the yacht up into the wind, and carry her way on until
+through, when her head was paid off on the proper tack.
+
+"I tell you what, these Norfolk waters are capital places to learn to
+steer in. An inch either way, and we should have torn our sail against
+the bridge."
+
+"Yes, and what with getting the utmost on every tack, without going
+ashore, shaving wherries by a yard or two, and watching for every puff as
+it comes over the grasses on the marsh, so as to make the most of it,
+there is more fun in sailing here than on more open waters."
+
+Just below the bridge is the _New Cut_, a perfectly straight canal, three
+miles long, connecting the Yare with the Waveney, and so saving a round
+of some eighteen miles, which would otherwise be necessary to get from
+the one river to the other, as a reference to the map will show.
+
+Now came a steady beat for several miles, until we reached the Berney
+Arms (on the right is the mouth of the river Waveney), when Breydon water
+opened out before us, with Yarmouth in the distance. When the tide is
+in, this is a remarkable sheet of water, four and a-half miles long by a
+mile broad. There are mud flats on either side of the wide channel,
+where herons and sea-fowl greatly congregate. The strong wind against
+the tide raises a respectable sea, and the tacks being longer we made
+rapid progress, and the motion was exhilarating. A sail across Breydon
+in a strong wind, is a thing I always consider a great treat. The
+channel is marked out by stout posts at intervals of two hundred yards or
+thereabouts, but it is not safe to sail too close to all these posts
+unless the tide be high, as the shoals stretch out beyond them, and, in
+default of local knowledge, it is best to give them a wide berth.
+
+ [Picture: The Quay, Great Yarmouth]
+
+The spires of Yarmouth grow more distinct, and at last we arrived at its
+quays, just as the tide was on the turn. We made fast alongside a wherry
+moored to the quay, and while our man, with the assistance of one of the
+loiterers on the quay, lowered the mast, and quanted the yacht up the
+narrow mouth of the Bure and under two bridges, we took a stroll about
+the quays, the quaint "rows" and streets of the old part of the town, and
+had a peep at the splendid church.
+
+The ebb tide runs very strongly, and, to avoid being carried against the
+bridge which spans the contracted harbour, it is prudent for the stranger
+to have an anchor in readiness. The public quays are on the north side
+next the town, and a berth alongside a wherry or other yacht can be
+chosen. There are private moorings laid down alongside the south shore
+off "Cobholm Island," and it is customary, in case of need, to bring up
+to one of these, if vacant; but a yacht must not be moored there, or
+alongside another yacht there, without permission. If the visitor is
+nervous or inexperienced, he can avail himself of the services of one of
+the watermen loafing about the quays, to help him through the fixed
+bridges which block the entrance to the river Bure, which here enters the
+harbour.
+
+[Picture: Bream] The river bends to the south at an acute angle with its
+former course, and for about three miles runs very close to, and almost
+parallel with the sea. It is interesting to row past the wharves and
+quays, where many quaint and picturesque bits present themselves, but on
+account of the rapid flow of the tide, it is not a part of the river much
+frequented by the river yachts.
+
+ [Picture: A "row", Great Yarmouth]
+
+As Yarmouth has guide-books all to itself, it is not necessary here to
+expatiate upon its attractions.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+YARMOUTH TO ACLE.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] On going back to the yacht, we found
+that she was moored in the North River, or Bure, having been quanted
+under the two fixed bridges, and the mast was being slowly raised. The
+big pole masts of these river yachts are very heavy and unwieldy, and I
+am always glad when the operation of lowering and raising them again is
+safely over. Sometimes they have lead weights permanently fixed to the
+heel of the mast (which latter swings in a tabernacle), but generally,
+lumps of ballast have to be shifted and hooked on, a troublesome
+"pinch-finger" business which I avoid in my own yacht by using a tackle
+and blocks.
+
+Of course the wind was fair, as our course up the Bure lies north for a
+mile or two, and then due west as far as Acle; and it is well when it is
+fair, for the next twelve miles are very uninteresting. There is nothing
+whatever to see, except eel sets and boats. These Noah's-ark-like craft
+are generally made out of old sea boats, with a hut built on them. They
+are shoved a little way up a dyke, out of the way of wherries, and the
+eel net is stretched across the stream, waiting for the eels, in their
+annual migrations seawards, to swim into it. Those two wooden buoys, one
+on each side of the river, mark its position.
+
+Almost at our first starting, we got aground; hard and fast too, for the
+shoals are frequent hereabout. We waited for the tide to float us off,
+and to help it we sent a rope ashore to a man on the bank. The rope was
+not quite long enough, and Wynne undertook to bend another to it. The
+man set all his weight on it, the knot parted, and the man disappeared on
+the other side of the embankment, where there was, we knew, a deep ditch.
+Presently he reappeared, dripping wet, and in a towering passion. He
+refused to assist us any more, so we waited a little longer, and as the
+tide rose, we were again afloat.
+
+Once round the bend by the Two-mile House we sped away at top speed to
+the westward, with frequent jibes as the river bends. The great boom
+came over with tremendous force, and made the yacht quiver again,
+although we eased it all we could by rallying in the sheet. The low,
+dull banks passed rapidly by, the only land-marks being solitary houses,
+known as the three-mile, four-mile, five-mile, six-mile, and seven-mile
+houses. Then we came to Stokesby Ferry, where there is a group of
+houses, which would make a picture, and an inn, where there is tolerable
+accommodation, called the Ferry House. Then, on the right, are some
+sluices, marking the entrance to the "Muck Fleet," a shallow, muddy dyke,
+only navigable for small boats, which leads to the fine group of Broads
+known as Ormesby and Filby Broads. Of these we shall have something to
+say afterwards. A separate excursion has to be made to them, as they do
+not come within the round of a yachting trip, unless you drag your jolly
+over the sluices, and row the four-miles-long Muck Fleet. Having once
+tried this experiment, I cannot recommend others to do it.
+
+A mile and a half further on, and we came to Acle bridge, twelve miles
+from Yarmouth. Here is a fixed bridge, where the mast has to be lowered.
+When we got through this we stopped for dinner, and then, although we
+might have sailed up to Wroxham with the wind before dark, we were fated
+to spend the night here, in consequence of a freak of Wynne's. In the
+exuberance of his spirits, he attempted to jump a wide dyke, using the
+quant as a leaping-pole. As a matter of course, the pole sank deep into
+the mud, and when it attained an upright position, it refused to depart
+from it, and so checked Wynne in mid-air.
+
+"Whatever is going to happen now?" he exclaimed, and after a frantic
+gymnastic exercise on the top of the quant, it slowly bent, and finally
+broke, depositing Wynne on his back in the middle of the dyke.
+
+We fairly shrieked with laughter, and, as Wynne said, it served him
+right, for laughing as he did at the man rolling into the ditch, when the
+rope gave way.
+
+As we had to get a new quant from Yarmouth, we had to wait here until the
+morning, and amuse ourselves with fishing for bream, of which large
+quantities may be caught here, and of good weight. Acle is a capital
+fishing station, and is now accessible from Norwich by the new line to
+Yarmouth, branching off at Brundall. Acle is a charming village, and
+offers many residential facilities to those who are fond of country life
+and aquatic amusements. It is within easy reach of all the best Broads,
+lying on the rivers Bure and Thurne, and not far by water to Yarmouth.
+There are three good inns--the "King's Head," the "Queen's Head," and the
+"Angel." The most convenient is the one by Acle bridge (the "Angel"),
+kept by Mr. Rose, who well understands and can supply the needs of
+yachting men and anglers. There is staying accommodation at the inn, a
+wagonnette to meet the trains, fishing boats to let, and every attention
+from the host. As there is good mooring to both banks, especially above
+the bridge, and the river is wide and deep, Acle is rapidly becoming a
+favourite yachting and angling station.
+
+ [Picture: St. Benet's Abbey]
+
+Owing to the wide breadth of marsh there is a true wind for sailing, and
+the reaches above Acle to Thurnemouth are wider and finer than any other
+parts of the Bure.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+ACLE TO WROXHAM.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] The wind, on the next morning, was
+from the north-west, a head wind for us, and there was little of it; so
+little, indeed, that we could not stem the tide, and had to quant for
+three miles. Then we came to the mouth of the river Thurne, leading to
+Hickling Broad, up which we intended to sail on our return from Wroxham.
+The Bure turns off sharply to the west, and as the wind gradually gained
+in strength, we were able to dispense with the unwelcome labour of
+quanting.
+
+The first noteworthy spot that we came to was St. Benet's Abbey, situated
+on the north bank of the river. Once upon a time it must have been a
+mighty building, covering much ground, as its scattered ruins testify.
+Now nought reminds us of its founder, sensible King Canute, but a fine
+archway, with some contiguous walls, upon which a windmill has been
+erected, but which is now itself in ruins, and two massive parallel
+walls, standing about two hundred yards to the eastward; also, there are
+arched doorways, and strong walls in the house by the riverside, whose
+cool recesses speak of ancient days. This house was once a public-house;
+we landed to get a drink of buttermilk, and lay in a store of eggs and
+butter. We also climbed to the top of the ruined arch, whence a wide
+prospect is visible, and one may count a goodly number of churches.
+
+Opposite the ruins is a dyke, down which a wherry turned.
+
+"Where does that lead to?" asked Wynne.
+
+"To South Walsham Broad, which is a mile and a half down it; and,
+although wherries can sail down, this boat, which draws about five feet
+six inches, cannot. Still, we can go down in the jolly, or, if you like,
+stay here, and fish for perch. This is a noted spot, because there is a
+hard gravelly bottom, and, by the way, we might have stopped at Thurne
+mouth, which is a good place for pike."
+
+"I like exploring these dykes, so I vote we go down to the Broad."
+
+ [Picture: Cottage, South Walsham Broad]
+
+So we started, and overtook the wherry, which had been aground, and she
+gave us a tow down. The Broad, which was formerly one sheet of water,
+has, by the growth of reeds and plants, been divided into two portions.
+There was nothing particular to be seen in the first one; but on rowing
+into the further Broad, we saw a cottage on the right bank, which, with
+its long, low thatch, deep eaves, its honeysuckles and roses, its trees
+and its landing-place, formed a most tempting object for a sketch, and
+one the artist would do well to seek. The Broad is private, save for the
+navigation across one part of it to South Walsham, and the fishing is
+preserved. The old course of the river formerly made a horse-shoe bend
+down towards South Walsham, and the present straight channel by the Abbey
+ruins is an artificial cut. The site of the Abbey is an island of solid
+ground in the midst of a great extent of marsh. When we got back to the
+boat we saw the man fast asleep on the counter, with his rod in the
+river, in tow of a large perch, weighing one pound and a half, which we
+secured.
+
+About a mile further, on the right hand, as we ascend the river, is the
+mouth of the river Ant, leading to Barton Broad and Statham, of which
+more anon.
+
+"The river is getting uncommonly pretty," said Wynne, "and this slow
+tacking enables me to see it to advantage, eh! How close we steer to the
+fishing boats! and, pray tell me, why do fishermen in Norfolk wear such
+extraordinary hats! Here is another dyke. Can we sail down it?"
+
+"If we only drew four feet of water, we could go on to Ranworth Broad."
+
+"Then, on my next cruise here, I will get a yacht that does not draw more
+than a wherry does. It is absurd to have such deep draught yachts where
+there are so many shallows. Let us row down."
+
+Ranworth Broad is a very pretty Broad, but grown up so that it is divided
+into two. The eastern half is navigable to the village of Ranworth, but
+otherwise private, as is the other portion of the Broad. This is very
+strictly preserved, on account of the wild fowl which frequent it. It is
+a favourite fishing place, although permission has first to be obtained
+from the owner, who, however, cannot be expected to give leave
+indiscriminately. It is not worth while seeking to fish in private
+waters in this district, for other fish than pike, seeing that the free
+fishing in the rivers is as good as any one could wish for. From the
+eastern part of the Broad, a very pretty picture, with the church in the
+background, on a wooded height, is visible.
+
+ [Picture: Horning Village]
+
+Then to Horning Ferry, where, as we approached, a horse and cart were
+being ferried across, and we had to lie to for a few minutes, until the
+huge raft was safely across, and the chain lowered. The public-house at
+the ferry is a very comfortable one, with a nice sitting-room and garden
+in front, and is a capital place to make one's head-quarters. It is
+about nine miles drive from Norwich, and four from Wroxham railway
+station. A little further on is Horning village, a picturesque group of
+houses, straggling along the river bank, with a large windmill on the
+hill behind, making a good picture. Here our ears were greeted with the
+song which, for generations past, the small children of the village have
+chanted to passing yachts--
+
+ "Ho! John Barleycorn: Ho! John Barleycorn,
+ All day long I raise my song
+ To old John Barleycorn."
+
+That is all. It is simple and effective, and extracts coins from too
+easily pleased holiday-makers.
+
+ [Picture: Ranworth Church]
+
+The river turns to the left, at right angles to its former course, as it
+passes the village, and on the north bank is a reedy sheet of water,
+called Hoveton Little Broad, where there is a small colony of the
+black-headed gulls. On the south side is a small, but pretty Broad,
+called the Decoy Broad. Then the river turns still more sharply to the
+left, and we sailed due south, after having come due north by Horning.
+
+"What a number of anglers there are!" said Wynne, "and the singular thing
+is, that they always seem to be catching fish.--How many have you
+caught?" he called out to two fishermen in a boat.
+
+"About six stone, sir," was the reply; "but we have been at it since
+daylight, and they bite very slow."
+
+"I must say I think Norfolk a very favoured county, with all these
+splendid rivers and free fishing; and one place seems as good as
+another."
+
+"Yes, as long as you pick deepish water, and get under a lee."
+
+"Do they groundbait the place where they fish?"
+
+"Not before they come, but while fishing they throw in a good deal of
+meal, mixed with water and clay. If they were to groundbait one or two
+suitable places on both sides of the river, so as to be sure of getting a
+lee, for a day or two before they fish, they ought to get even more than
+they do now. Here is a boat-load trailing for jack. Ask how many they
+have caught."
+
+Wynne did so, and the reply was, "Fifteen, but all small: they run from
+two pounds up to seven."
+
+"People here either fish for pike with a live bait or trail with a spoon.
+You rarely see anybody spinning by casting, or even using a dead bait on
+a spinning flight. Now, I know that in the hands of one or two people, a
+paternoster has proved very deadly. With three large minnows on your
+tackle, and roving about close to the bank, you may get many pike and
+perch."
+
+"I'll try it in the morning before breakfast," said Wynne.
+
+In another mile the river again turns westward. On the north is a very
+large Broad, called Hoveton Great Broad, whence comes the clangour of a
+large colony of black-headed gulls. The Broad is not navigable for
+anything of greater draught than a small sailing boat; and now all access
+to it has been barred by chains across the dykes, and it is strictly
+preserved, chiefly in consequence, it is said, of the disturbance of the
+gulls by visitors. The gulls flew, screaming, overhead, in a white
+cloud, so that the air seemed filled with them, and the half-grown young
+ones floated on the water, as lightly as thistle-down. Although this
+colony is nothing like so large as the famous one at Scoulton Mere, near
+Hingham, in Norfolk, yet it is extremely interesting, and particularly
+when the eggs are being hatched off, and the little fluffy brown balls,
+which represent the young birds, are running and creeping about the reeds
+and grasses, and swimming in and out of the water-divided tussocks. Air
+and water and grasses seem thrilling with abundant life, and the ear is
+deafened with abundant noise; a noise, however, which, discordant as it
+is, has for a naturalist the music of the nightingale. The water is very
+shallow at the east end, where the gulls are, but the soft mud is of an
+exceeding great depth.
+
+Some years ago the American weed, _Anacharis alsinastrum_, that pest of
+our inland waters, so completely filled this Broad, that a duck could
+walk upon the surface. It then suddenly decayed, at the same time
+poisoning the fish so that they died by thousands. Since this time the
+Broad has been comparatively free from it.
+
+During Wynne's visit the Broad was still open, and we visited it in the
+jolly. After rowing about for some time, we turned to go back to the
+yacht, and Wynne said, "I don't see the sails of the yacht anywhere.
+Where can she have disappeared to? I know that the river is over there,
+because there is the sail of a wherry over the reeds, but there is no
+channel through the reeds, and it is no use your rowing that way. You
+have lost your way, my boy."
+
+We only laughed at him and rowed on.
+
+"I tell you that there is no way into the river here. Oh, yes, there is;
+I beg your pardon, but I should have rowed about until doomsday before I
+found the way off."
+
+"And you couldn't have landed, for I don't think there is a bit of solid
+ground all round the Broad. But where is the yacht?" For there was no
+sign of her.
+
+The wide opening on the opposite side of the river suggested that perhaps
+the man had taken her on to Salhouse Broad. So we rowed on, disturbing a
+kingfisher, which was perched on a bullrush, and there was a picture.
+Wynne cried, "OH!" with delight, and, although I have seen the like so
+many times, the scene is always fresh in its beauty. On the placid bosom
+of the small lake the yacht lay motionless, while a pair of swans, with
+their brood of cygnets, swam near her. Outside the ever-present boundary
+of green reeds, was a darker circle of trees, and crowds of yellow lilies
+made a bright bit of colour in the foreground. On the further shore was
+a thatched boat-house, and behind it a wooded bank. The thud of the
+jolly against the yacht's side aroused a wild duck; a shoal of rudd broke
+the still surface, as they sprang from a pursuing pike, and the
+red-and-white cows, which had pushed through the reeds to drink, stood
+looking at us contemplatively.
+
+We dropped the anchor, and got tea ready, and Wynne worked hard at a
+water-colour sketch, brush in one hand, bread and butter in the other,
+palate, plate, and sketch-block mixed up, and the brush going as often
+into his teacup as into the mug of water.
+
+After tea, we landed, and walked into the long and straggling village of
+Salhouse, in search of bread and fresh meat, and on our return, climbed
+to the top of the bank, whence a fair prospect met our eyes. At our feet
+were Salhouse Broad, and the smaller Broad next to it, which I call
+Salhouse Little Broad, a lakelet covered with water lilies; outside
+these, the sinuous river, doubling upon itself, as though loth to leave
+so pleasant a land; Hoveton Broad to the right, and Wroxham Broad to the
+left; many white sails flitting about on the latter, and more yachts
+coming slowly up the river.
+
+There is a navigation across Salhouse Broad to Salhouse Staithe, but the
+present owner of the Broad discourages sailing upon it, and the reader is
+advised not to anchor or moor there. The old times when one could come
+and go upon the Broads as a matter of apparent right are now past.
+
+We went to Girling's farm, close by, to get milk, and eggs, and butter,
+and I may mention that Mr. Girling has comfortable rooms to let, suitable
+for a family, whilst the situation is unsurpassed for prettiness.
+
+We quanted off the Broad, and found just sufficient air moving on the
+river to take us gently on. We had a little surprise in store for Wynne.
+As we came up to Wroxham Broad, I asked him to reach me something out of
+the cabin. When he was safe inside, I put the helm up, and we slipped
+through the 'gatway' into the Broad. When Wynne came out of the cabin,
+instead of the river banks, he saw the wide-stretching Broad, the Queen
+of the Broads, for her beauty, size, and depth of water combined.
+
+"This is lovely. I had no idea that we had left the river. What a
+string of fishing boats! Are they having a match?"
+
+"Yes. Angling matches are very favourite amusements here, and the prizes
+are sometimes valuable, and sometimes very miscellaneous in their nature.
+They are very sociable, well-conducted gatherings, and I think the
+Norfolk anglers would meet with old Izaak's approbation, as being honest
+and peaceable men."
+
+"They all look very happy. But, tell me, are there always so many yachts
+here as there are to-day?"
+
+"Not quite. The fact is, there is a regatta of the Norfolk and Suffolk
+Yacht Club here to-morrow, and it is always a genuine water frolic. This
+is a favourite place at all times; Wroxham is only seven miles by rail
+from Norwich, and the Broad is only a mile and a half from Wroxham by
+water."
+
+We drifted across to the other side of the Broad, and there dropped our
+anchor, and made all snug.
+
+ [Picture: Horning Ferry]
+
+It was a lovely evening, and yacht after yacht came upon the Broad, and
+anchored; anchoring, by the way, meaning, in the majority of cases,
+dropping some pigs of ballast overboard, at the end of a rope, for the
+mud is so soft that an ordinary anchor would drag through it. We visited
+our friends on various yachts, and then the moon shone so brightly out of
+a cloudless sky, that, late as it was, we did not turn in for a long
+time, but floated about in the boat, and yarned about old times, until it
+was very late indeed.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+WROXHAM BROAD.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] I had scarcely closed my eyes, it
+seemed to me, ere I was awakened by Wynne moving about.
+
+"What are you up to?" I cried.
+
+"I am going to paternoster for perch, and I'll take the casting-net to
+get some small fry."
+
+"Oh, dear! why can't you wait until the morning?"
+
+"It is morning. It is four o'clock and broad daylight."
+
+"Then go, and don't come back until breakfast time." And I drew the
+curtains over the windows, and tried to think it was quite dark, and to
+get to sleep again.
+
+On awaking I heard the sound of a piano. My first thought was, "Where am
+I?" I found that I was on the boat, sure enough, and it was seven
+o'clock. There was no more sleep for me, for a wherry, fitted up as a
+yacht, was lying near, and her crew had not only got a piano on board,
+but played upon it at seven o'clock in the morning. It is an excellent
+plan to rig up a wherry in this way for a cruise, as good accommodation
+for a large party is secured, and the interior can be well divided into
+several sleeping-rooms. The presence of ladies aboard the wherry, and up
+so early, was rather a nuisance, as one had to row away for one's dip.
+Up to eight o'clock, the Broad is generally sacred to the men, who can
+take their plunge overboard with safety.
+
+Presently Wynne came back.
+
+"Well, what have you caught?"
+
+"Two jack, about five pounds each, and three perch, about a pound each.
+If I could have got some minnows I should have done better, but the roach
+I got were too large for paternostering, and not lively enough. I got
+into a row, too. I found a bow net set among the weeds, and there were
+three large tench in it. As I took it up to look at it, its owner
+appeared, and slanged me considerably at first; but when he cooled down,
+he got talkative, and told me that the reaches of the river by Salhouse
+and Hoveton Broads are the best for pike, but that all the way down to
+Horning Ferry is good. By the way, I saw a lot of boats fishing on the
+Broad when I set out, and they went on to the river when they saw me.
+The Broad is not preserved, is it?"
+
+"No; but one of the owners, Mr. Chamberlin, levies a tax of 2s. 6d. on
+fishermen, and as it goes to the Norfolk and Norwich Hospital, one ought
+to pay it willingly. Poor men can't pay it, so they fish on the Broad in
+the early morning, and then leave for the river. They walk here from
+Norwich, overnight, and begin to fish before daylight, and as they can
+get a boat at Wroxham for a shilling a day, it is not an expensive
+pastime for them."
+
+"I saw some notice boards at Salhouse, but there was so much on them, and
+the letters were so small, that I could not read them, but I suppose they
+were meant to warn people off."
+
+"Yes, there is unfortunately too great a disposition amongst owners to
+try and close the Broads against the fishing public, and even to
+interfere with the old navigation rights, but there are praiseworthy
+exceptions, and here comes one, the owner of this end of Wroxham Broad."
+{70}
+
+As the sun rose higher, so it grew hotter in too great a ratio, and the
+breeze was too light to afford much excitement in the way of racing.
+Still, it was a wonderfully pretty sight, such as could be seen on no
+other English inland water, save Windermere: the yachts, too, are very
+much like the Windermere yachts, but carry even more canvas than the
+latter do. The following are the dimensions of a 10-tonner of that time:
+length on keel, 25 feet; over all, 34 feet; beam, 10 feet. Ordinary
+canvas would be, mainsail luff, 23 feet; head, 28 feet 6 inches; foot, 35
+feet, and leech, 42 feet; jib, leech, 23 feet; foot, 36 feet; and luff,
+48 feet, with a topsail yard of 23 feet. For racing, these dimensions
+are largely increased. For fast sailing and quick turning to windward,
+these boats are justly celebrated, but the Broads are so rapidly growing
+shallower, that their draught, about five feet, closes many of the Broads
+to them. A much more sensible type of a large boat for pure comfort in
+cruising (though not for sport in sailing) is one founded on the wherry
+plan, with a large mainsail, and drawing not more than three feet of
+water. For such boats under 10 tons, the "Una" type is the best. Its
+shallow draught would enable it, with the centre-board up, to go
+anywhere, and penetrate into the most charming recesses of this wild
+country, which the deeper yacht can never see. Its beam gives safety,
+and also minimises the inconvenience of the centre-board case in the
+cabin, and a high booby hatch would give head-room. The one sail is very
+handy, and if her owner has but ordinary skill and energy, he could sail
+her alone, and so dispense with the expense of keeping a man. Without
+this expense, yachting in these waters is a reasonable and very cheap
+amusement. These remarks are for the benefit of the great number of
+people who have written to me at one time or another, to know what
+facilities for economical boat-sailing and living exist in these waters.
+For fast sailing and ease of handling by a _skilled_ person, the present
+improved type of sloop or cutter cannot be surpassed on any waters.
+
+Well, 10-tonners and 4-tonners, open cutter-rigged sailing-boats of a
+very fast type, canoes with battened sails, luggers and boats, and
+wherries sailed to and fro, and steam launches puffed noisily about, and
+marred the beauty of the scene, as well as upset the glasses and dishes
+of breakfast or luncheon by the swell which they caused. The people paid
+very little attention to the racing, but set themselves heartily to enjoy
+this great water picnic.
+
+Wynne went ashore, and discovered some pretty woodland vistas, with
+glimpses of the Broad, and the glancing sails between leafy boughs of
+oaks, and under lofty arms of Scotch firs. Also, he discovered that at
+the farm at the lower end of the Broad, Mrs. Newman's, there were rooms
+to let, and that an artist friend of his had taken them, so there he
+stayed for a long time, and kept the jolly, in spite of vigorous hails
+for it.
+
+Of the adventurous journeys of yachts up to divers Wroxham Regattas, of
+the exploits of elated yachtsmen, and the mishaps of careless ones, of
+the fun and merriment attendant on these annual gatherings, the writer
+has written in another place. At present, we must hurry on.
+
+In the evening we sailed, or rather quanted, up to the Bridge. These
+reaches of the river were lovely in the extreme. The clear and brimming
+river reflected the marginal flowers and groups of trees, while acres of
+marsh shone with the yellow iris flowers. But, alas! the woods and the
+sloping fields kept off the wind, and made one wish that the _upper_
+entrance to the Broad were widened and made navigable.
+
+We came to the Bridge at last, and moored to the bank, watching the
+homeward-bound holiday makers arrive in yachts, and boats, and wherries;
+a goodly number of the latter having numerous passengers.
+
+ [Picture: Belaugh Church]
+
+Wroxham has two decent inns, where good boats and bait may be
+obtained--Jimpson's (the "King's Head"), and Whittaker's, the former the
+largest, but both comfortable.
+
+ [Picture: Chapter Header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+WROXHAM TO COLTISHALL.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] The bridge at Wroxham is very narrow
+and low. The mast, of course, had to be lowered, and the yacht quanted
+under the road and railway bridges. A wherry passing under raised her
+mast too soon, and damaged the ornamental vane, which consisted of the
+inevitable figure of a Welsh girl with a high hat and holding a bunch of
+leeks.
+
+"There, I must have a new Welsh girl," said the wherryman.
+
+"Why is such an emblem chosen in Norfolk, of all places?" asked Wynne.
+
+"Some thirty years ago there was a wherry named after the famous Jenny
+Morgan of the song, and she had such a vane. It took the fancy of the
+wherrymen to such an extent that they all adopted it in the course of
+time."
+
+The river here is very narrow, and Wynne, who was steering, put the yacht
+"on the putty" twice, before he could be induced to give up the helm to
+the man, who professed to know the exact depth of every part of the
+river. The river makes a very long loop to the south, just above
+Wroxham. In this loop is Belaugh Broad, said to hold some very large
+carp, but it is preserved. On the neck of the loop, on a high bank,
+stands Belaugh Church, a prominent object for some miles, as you follow
+the river. It is very picturesquely situated, and the view from it is
+characteristic. Close by the church is a draw-well, with a pent-house
+over it, well worth sketching. There is a pretty backwater, or old
+channel of the river, near here, called "Little Switzerland," which is
+worth rowing up, but unfortunately the owner objects even to artists
+visiting it, and hence it must be considered as sacred ground.
+
+It came on to blow very hard, as we finished the three-mile loop of
+river, half a mile from where we entered it, and as the wind was fair,
+the corners sharp, and the river narrow, we lowered the mainsail, and ran
+up under the jib alone, to Coltishall, where we at once made a rush for
+the butcher's, just in time to secure a piece of meat for our dinner
+to-morrow, which, being Sunday, we intended to spend at Coltishall. The
+village is superior to most Norfolk villages, and contains some old
+houses with rounded gables, and a fine church.
+
+ [Picture: Dyke Near Coltishall]
+
+The great business of the place is malting, and many men labour as
+maltsters in winter and boat-builders in summer, so that summer is the
+time to get a boat built at Coltishall, when either Allen or Collins will
+build you one at a reasonable rate.
+
+The fishing is very good in this portion of the river, and there are
+great numbers of jack here, although they run rather small. In the
+spawning season, the bream head up here in large numbers, and as there is
+no close season in Norfolk, many anglers follow them up.
+
+The first lock on this river is just above the village, and on the
+bye-stream stands Horstead mill, a very fine specimen of the Norfolk
+water-mill. It stands upon arches, and the stream runs under it, the
+wheels, of course, being undershot. It makes a very effective picture,
+seen from below, and, in fact, if you row your jolly up the left-hand
+stream, as you go up, you will see very many lovely bits worth the
+painter's attention. I have photographed some of them, as I can't
+sketch, but photographs cannot depict the colour. It is in the soft
+living light of these Norfolk scenes that their chief beauty lies, but
+they cannot be depicted without the aid of colour, and only imperfectly
+then.
+
+The river is navigable for wherries and yachts drawing but little water,
+right up to Aylsham, some eleven miles further; but there are two more
+locks before reaching Aylsham.
+
+ [Picture: Ludham Bridge]
+
+Coltishall is accessible by rail from Norwich, being the next station to
+Wroxham, and lodgings are obtainable there. The jack fishing is very
+good all the way.
+
+ [Picture: River Bure--Hautbois]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] Wynne had undertaken the office of
+steward, and so far we had fared sumptuously, but as we were tidying up
+on Monday morning, the fact became apparent that the provision lockers
+were nearly empty.
+
+"The fact is," he said, "I thought there would be a better chance of
+buying things, as we went along, than there appears to be, for with the
+exception of butter and eggs, we might as well be on the prairies. What
+shall we do?"
+
+Now, provisioning is a very perplexing thing, particularly when it is for
+several days, and as I knew that at Norwich made-up hampers of provisions
+for fishing-parties could be obtained, we telegraphed for one to be sent
+to us at Wroxham station, and departed in hope, with a light but fair
+wind. We trailed a pike-bait behind, and caught several jack, and two or
+three good perch. We were three hours getting to Wroxham, and while the
+mast was being lowered, Wynne went to the station to meet a train then
+coming in. He returned in glee with a hamper of good things, and our
+difficulty was at end. Once we spent a Sunday at Wroxham, with nothing
+procurable to eat but biscuits, and once, at Barton, we were obliged to
+fish for our meals. Meat so soon goes bad on board a boat, and one does
+not always care for tinned things. A good wrinkle is to have a bottle
+containing a strong solution of permanganate of potash on board, and then
+a few drops placed in a pint of water will make a most efficient
+deodorising liquid, with which you may safely sprinkle the meat, and wash
+out the lockers.
+
+As the day advanced, the breeze got up, and by two o'clock we were at the
+mouth of the river Ant, ten miles from Wroxham.
+
+As we turned up its narrow and shallow waters, our man said,
+
+"We shan't get very far up this river, sir, with a craft drawing so much
+water as this."
+
+"No, but we can get to Ludham Bridge, and there I have arranged for an
+old lateener to be waiting for us."
+
+[Picture: Woodland Pool--Irstead] We touched the ground several times
+before we got to the bridge, about a mile up, thus showing that a very
+fine Broad is practically closed to the possessor of a large yacht of the
+usual type. We left the yacht below the bridge in charge of the man, and
+Wynne and I transferred ourselves on board a six-ton lateener, very broad
+and very shallow, with bluff bows; a boat sixty years old, if a day, only
+drawing about two feet of water. She had an enormous lateen foresail,
+and a mizen, and she subsequently formed a picturesque object in Wynne's
+sketches. A wherry was coming through the low and narrow bridge, and, as
+the water was high, she had some difficulty in doing it.
+
+The wind was fair for a large portion of the way, and we bowled along
+very fast. Where it was ahead, owing to a bend in the river, there was
+no room to tack, and one of us would jump ashore with a line, and tow.
+The Ant is just like a canal, except that it has no tow-path. The
+fishing in it is remarkably good, particularly at Irstead shoals, where
+there is a stretch of water about half a mile long, with an even depth of
+four to five feet, and a firm, level, pebbly bottom, a curiosity in this
+land of boggy streams. This is an excellent spot for perch and pike. It
+is marked by the presence of a church on the western bank, and is one of
+the few places on these waters where a person who cannot swim can bathe
+with safety or comfort. The muddy bottom, of course, prohibits wading.
+As you approach the entrance to Barton Broad, the bottom becomes muddy
+again, and the Broad itself is full of mud; there being large "hills"
+where the water is not more than two feet deep. The navigable channels
+wind between these hills, and are marked out by posts. The Broad is a
+mile long, and very pretty, and the entrance to it is four and a half
+miles from the mouth of the Ant. In our light-draught lateener, we
+ignored the channels, and sped about all over, often, however, finding
+our speed diminished, as the keel cut through the soft mud, and turned up
+yellow volumes of mud behind. It is a curious fact that in some Broads
+and portions of Broads, the mud is of a light yellow colour, and in other
+portions black. As all this mud is the result of decayed vegetation,
+this difference is singular.
+
+There is an artificial island in the Broad, where a picnic party were
+then enjoying themselves. We sailed away into the long bight which leads
+towards Neatishead, where the bowery woods, fringing the water, spoke of
+welcome shade, but we were brought to a stop by the mud, and had some
+difficulty in getting back. On this very lovely Broad, we found we had
+much better stick to the channels, which were wide enough, and explore
+the shallows in the jolly. The fishing here is remarkably good. I do
+not think any objection is made to angling for coarse fish, but
+permission must be obtained for pike fishing. The Broad, though the
+water is fresh, is affected by the rise and fall of the tide. Going on
+one night in the dark, I missed the channel, and ran so hard on to a
+"hill," that in the morning when the tide was at its height, we had to
+lay the yacht on her side by means of lines and tackles to the nearest
+channel posts ere we could float her off. The Broad is easy of access,
+by going to Stalham railway station, and hiring boats at Stalham, whence
+a row of about two miles will bring you on to the Broad.
+
+ [Picture: Entrance--Barton Broad]
+
+At the north end of the Broad, a wide dyke leads northwards. This
+divides into two about a mile from the Broad; the left-hand one leads to
+Dilham and North Walsham, becoming a canal, with locks and water-mills.
+We took the right-hand one, and on coming to another sub-division, took
+the left-hand one, the right leading to a grown-up piece of water, known
+as Sutton Broad. The course we chose led us over Stalham Broad, which,
+though marked on maps as a piece of open water, now only consists of a
+tract of marsh, with a dyke kept open through it. Stalham is at the end
+of this dyke. Here there are two good inns, the "Swan," and the "Maid's
+Head," and there are plenty of good boats for hire at the waterside.
+Stalham has a station on the Yarmouth and North Norfolk Railway, and as a
+fishing station is considered very good.
+
+We caught a pike in the dyke, at luncheon time (ours as well as his), and
+a big fellow of about fourteen pounds in weight was said to haunt the
+spot. We saw a large fish strike at some roach, but he would not look at
+our spinning-bait. Within sight of the dyke end is a tumble-down house,
+with a thatched roof, broken-backed, and altogether so jumbled and
+ancient-looking, that it makes a capital subject for a sketch.
+
+In the afternoon we sailed quietly back to the cutter, and took both
+boats back to the Bure, and down it to St. Benet's Abbey, which we
+reached by moonlight.
+
+[Picture: Carp] Wynne had taken a great fancy to the lateener, which had
+been lent to me by a friend, and as we wished to explore the Broads about
+Hickling, all too shallow for the cutter, we decided to take both yachts
+up the Thurne to Heigham Bridges, and leave the cutter there, while we
+took the lateener up on the wide, wild waters above the bridge. The next
+morning we devoted to pike fishing, at the mouth of the Thurne, getting
+our bait with a casting-net. We got up very early, and were moored in a
+convenient spot, and all rigged up ready to start before the mist had
+risen off the water. I do not intend to go into the details of our
+sport, which was not out of the way, but by one o'clock we got six pike,
+from four to ten pounds in weight, and put back four under-sized fish.
+This was with live bait, without moving more than one hundred yards from
+the same spot.
+
+ [Picture: Carrying reeds, Barton]
+
+ [Picture: Barton Staithe]
+
+ [Picture: Stalham Dyke]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+WOMACK BROAD.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] Being tired of fishing, we had a swim,
+and then dinner; and, late in the afternoon, we hoisted sail, to a stiff
+breeze, Wynne and the man in the cutter, and I in the lateener. They ran
+away from me so quickly, however, that I could not stop them at the
+entrance to Womack {91} Broad, as I had intended, and was obliged to go
+in chase of them up to Heigham Bridges. The round, bluff bows of my old
+lateener, designed to support the heavy mast, which raked forward over
+them, made such a hollow in the water, and raised such a big wave, that
+sailing very fast was impossible. As it was, the nose of the boat sank
+so that it seemed as if she must run under, a fate not uncommon with
+lateeners, when running before a stiff breeze. It was this peculiarity
+of theirs, combined with the large foreyard, more than twice the length
+of the boat which caused the rig to fall into disuse. For turning to
+windward, however, they are uncommonly handy, and easily managed
+single-handed. The Thurne is a fairly wide stream, with deep water, so
+that you can tack close up to the banks. It is four miles from the mouth
+of the Thurne to Heigham Bridges, and the cutter was there ten minutes
+before me.
+
+ [Picture: Drainage Mill--River Thurne]
+
+"I say, Wynne, I wanted you to stop at that dyke, half way up, but I
+could not make you hear me. There is a charming little Broad there,
+called Womack Broad, and a picture ready composed, so bring your
+paint-box, and we will beat back in the lateen."
+
+We reached the dyke in half an hour, tacking in that narrow channel with
+great celerity.
+
+ [Picture: The River Thurne]
+
+"This boat turns more quickly than the cutter, I think; at all events,
+there is less trouble in managing her," said Wynne. "Do you know that I
+think a fine-bowed lugger, with main and mizen rig, would be a handy boat
+for these waters."
+
+"Some of the old lateeners have been turned into luggers, and sail very
+well. Here is the dyke, nearly a mile long, and fringed with ferns and
+flowers, reeds and bulrushes, iris and forget-me-nots."
+
+"Here comes a wherry. What shall we do? There is no room to pass."
+
+"We must go to windward of her, or her sail will take the mast out of us.
+Here is a place made wide to admit of wherries passing, and we can hold
+on here until she gets by. There, that was a tight fit."
+
+The boat sailor must be very careful to keep to windward of the wherries
+in narrow waters, as their huge gaffs and sails take up a great deal of
+room, and if they catch your mast, they may carry it away, or capsize
+you. It is still more important not to get across the bows of a wherry,
+as she would get the best of the encounter, and a small yacht very much
+the worst of it. It is not often that accidents happen through any
+collision, but occasionally the crew of a row-boat get bewildered and row
+across the bows of a wherry, sailing fast, and a day of pleasure is
+turned into mourning. A special Providence seems to watch over amateur
+boat-sailors, and it is marvellous to see how they come unharmed out of
+predicaments which seem most serious. The wherries are sailed remarkably
+well, and you can generally rely on their carefulness, so that you may
+sail your yacht rigidly according to the rule of the road. One thing
+should be remembered, the wherry's sailing is a matter of business, and
+the yachtsman's is a matter of pleasure only; therefore, it is well to
+give way to a wherry, if there is any doubt on the point, and not hamper
+her unnecessarily.
+
+The dyke we were then sailing down is about a mile long, leading westward
+to Womack Broad, which was once a nice sheet of water, but is very
+rapidly growing up, each year seeing an accretion to the growth of spongy
+marsh, and an additional layer of mud on the bottom. At present, the
+channel is navigable for wherries, which ply to Ludham village, at the
+further end of it.
+
+On the right-hand side, as we entered the Broad, is a bit of an old-world
+picture: a boat-builder's shed, large and old, and of picturesque
+construction, stands on the margin, amid low bushes and under the shade
+of mighty trees. Beneath it is a large boat, of an age and type unknown,
+and a wherry sleepily awaiting repair. Behind the boat-house is a barn,
+whose high-thatched roof is shaded by the branches of a cherry tree. By
+the side of the boat-shed is a dyke, where sundry small craft are
+ensconced. Behind all, and peeping out of a garden run wild, are low,
+thatched cottages, and scattered about, among the tall grasses, are
+trunks of trees, curved "knees" of oak, suitable for boat-building, and
+broken-up boats and punts. On the still water in front is moored a
+floating eel-fisher's hut, and all around is the sense of the repose of
+the past. The former busy life has left its emblems resting in
+acquiescence with the fate which contracts the sphere of their
+usefulness, day by day, and year by year, as the vegetation slowly, but
+surely, drives out the water. That dense growth of reeds lies upon a
+skim of soil which would not bear the weight of a dog, and now undulates
+with the movement of the water, but in three years' time it may bear the
+weight of a man.
+
+An old man who lives near there, grumbles because the artists come and
+paint his cottage and broad, and take away pounds' worth of sketches, and
+never think of sending him a picture in acknowledgment.
+
+It was a lotos lake to us that afternoon. Wynne painted, and I fished,
+and we sailed back to Heigham Bridges by moonlight.
+
+[Picture: Gudgeon] Womack Broad is not shown upon some maps and charts,
+but those who are susceptible to a lovely scene should not pass it by.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+HICKLING BROAD.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] Heigham Bridge is a small stone one,
+with not much room to get through, and a little above it is the railway
+bridge, over which the Eastern and Midlands Railway runs, with a station
+not far off--Potter Heigham. Near the station is the "Falgate" Inn,
+where there is comfortable accommodation. A gate hangs over the inn by
+way of a sign, and on its bars is inscribed the following--
+
+ "This gate hang high
+ But hinder none,
+ Refresh and pay
+ And travel on,"
+
+The omission of the _s_ in the third person singular of the verb is truly
+Norfolk, and common even among the middle classes. At the bridge is the
+"Waterman's Arms," where one or two bedrooms, and a small parlour, all
+scrupulously clean, are obtainable. Just by the bridge, in a sort of
+wooden "Peggoty's Hut," lives Applegate, who has good boats, sailing and
+rowing, for hire, stowed away in a remarkably neat boat-house. The
+fishing all round is as good as it can be, and I never fail to get a jack
+near the bridge, while, within four miles lie Hickling and Somerton
+Broads, Heigham Sounds, and Horsey Mere. For myself, I should prefer
+this as a fishing and boating station, to any other, because of the
+wildness of the district.
+
+ [Picture: Hickling Broad]
+
+The tide ebbs and flows strongly; and I caught Wynne standing on the
+bridge, and looking in a perplexed way at the rate the perfectly fresh
+water of the river was running up stream. The exit of these waters--at
+Yarmouth--was twenty miles away, by water; Heigham Bridge is only between
+four and five miles from the sea, in a direct line, and the water was now
+running eastward, towards the sea, and the lakes, which daily rise and
+fall, though only a few inches, actuated by the salt tide, "so near, and
+yet so far."
+
+"Verily, this is a strange country," said Wynne, "and not, I should
+think, beyond the possibility of a sudden visit from the sea."
+
+"No, those light-coloured mounds in the distance are the sea-banks, of
+sand, only held together by scanty marram grasses. We will pay them a
+closer visit."
+
+We got the lateener through the bridges, taking sufficient things for a
+night's absence, and sailed away up the Thurne, which seems now to lose
+its name as a river, and take that of the "Hundred Stream." About half a
+mile above the railway bridge is the mouth of Kendal, or Candler's, Dyke,
+a narrow winding stream, up which we turned, soon to find ourselves
+bordered by tall reeds on either hand, and then sailing through a
+wilderness of water and reeds so tall that they bounded our view. This
+is Heigham Sounds, now greatly overgrown, and a capital place for wild
+fowl; also for rudd, which here attain a very large size, and go in
+immense shoals. Out of the channel the water is extremely shallow. In
+the channel, particularly in Kendal Dyke, I have caught a good number of
+pike.
+
+The fishing on all these Broads--Hickling, Horsey, and the Sounds--is
+nominally preserved, but fair anglers do not seem to be interfered with.
+At all events, in the channel and the dykes one may pretty well do as one
+likes, and no attempt has ever been made to set up an exclusive right to
+the rivers. I note that a Fishery Preservation Society has been formed
+to abolish illegal netting, and to overlook this district, and under the
+auspices of this it is probable that riparian owners will not object to
+anglers taking a share of the superabundant fish out of the Broads. I
+call the fish superabundant advisedly, and will adhere to the term until
+anglers can assure me that they know what to do (usefully) with the
+number of fish they catch, and cease from throwing them away on the bank,
+after ascertaining their weight and number.
+
+ [Picture: Dyke at Potter Heigham]
+
+Well, we sailed as close to the wind as we could--and nothing goes closer
+than a lateener--and could just lie the channel through another reedy
+lake, called Whiteslea, on to the vast expanse of Hickling Broad, a lake
+400 acres in extent, and looking three times as large, owing to the
+extreme lowness of its shores, the absence of any landmarks, and the
+great concave sky, which seems to fit close down all around it. A
+channel across it is marked by posts, which we left to starboard, as we
+sailed over it. The width of the channel you will have to determine by
+experiment, as there is no guide. At a guess, it is twenty yards wide,
+and all the rest of the Broad is so shallow that you might wade over it,
+and find a hard, yellow, gravel bottom almost everywhere. Trusting in
+our two-feet draught, we sailed hither and thither, and felt our way
+checked, as the keel cut through masses of weed, and then the bound
+forward, as the boat entered a part clear of weeds. These bunches of
+weed have lately increased greatly in Hickling Broad, which used to be
+comparatively free from them, and the promontories of reeds are pushing
+themselves further and further into the lake, and the bays between are
+getting shallower. Still, the lake is large enough, as yet, to be able
+to stand a little filching from.
+
+We sailed down to Catfield staithe, on the western side of the Broad, and
+not far from Catfield railway station, on the line already alluded to.
+Then we went to Hickling staithe, at the north end, where there is an
+inn, the "Pleasure Boat," and walked into the village to post letters,
+and to receive some.
+
+Boats of a rough kind can be obtained here for fishing purposes. They
+are long, narrow, and flat-bottomed, and the usual method of propulsion
+is by "_setting_." The setter sits in the extreme stern, and pushes the
+boat along with a light pole, at a great rate. There are often setting
+races at local regattas, and great fun they are.
+
+ [Picture: Hickling Staithe]
+
+The number of broken-up lateeners on the shores of the Broad attest the
+decay of large pleasure-boat sailing on these remote waters, but the
+smaller class of centre-board boats are coming into favour, and are,
+perhaps, more suitable.
+
+After lunch we had to reef the great foresail, which was not an easy
+operation, as the reef was taken in along the yard, and we had to go into
+the jolly boat to get to the end of it. The jolly boat committed a joke
+its species is very fond of, under similar circumstances; that is, it
+slipped away from under one of us, and left him clinging to the yard,
+with his legs in the water.
+
+ [Picture: Martham Broad]
+
+I shall never forget three days I spent, on Whiteslea and Heigham Sound,
+for the fishing and fowling, one December with a friend. I stayed in the
+little cottage on the small island in Whiteslea. We had two boats and
+two men to attend to us during the day, but at night we were left to
+ourselves in the lonely house, where the water oozed through the floor,
+and the beds were so damp that I slept completely clothed in my oilies.
+There was a bitter north-easter sweeping over the dry reeds under a
+leaden sky, and the sport was of the slowest. I never felt the cold so
+much, accustomed though I am to winter pike-fishing.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] It was exhilarating work sailing over
+Hickling Broad, and we were very loth to leave its wind-swept waters. We
+had a rare run back along the channel, and over Whiteslea, and then
+turned sharp to the left, up the Old Meadow dyke leading to Horsey Mere.
+This dyke is a mile long, and of fair depth, but so narrow that people
+fishing on the banks had to hold up their rods as we passed, while our
+sail swept the tops of the reeds. Then we shot into Horsey Mere, a lake
+of 130 acres in extent, with a small island in the middle. It was very
+clear, and very shallow, the channel for wherries lying along the west
+side of it, into Palling dyke, which leads north-westward for several
+miles until it reaches almost to the sea.
+
+The white sand-hills on the coast were plainly visible, and the thunder
+of the surf was audible, as the sea was but a mile and a half away. We
+did what nearly every one else does who visits Horsey in a yacht; landed
+at the east end of it, and walked to the coast, but it was too rough to
+bathe. These sand-hills form a very curious barrier between the salt and
+fresh water. They are steep and high, and make one wonder by what force
+of wind and waves they attained their present shape and dimensions, in so
+flat a country, and why the like forces do not dissipate them over the
+plain. Breaches have been made in them by the sea, from time to time,
+notably in the winter of 1791, when a very high tide made several gaps,
+and threatened to overwhelm the marshes inland.
+
+"I like this Mere as well as any of the Broads," said Wynne, when we
+returned to the yacht. "It is so very still and lonely, and its quiet is
+in such contrast to the roar and unrest of the sea close by. Is the
+fishing free here?"
+
+"No, it is supposed to be preserved, though I don't suppose anyone will
+object to our catching a pike for supper, if you wish. There are no pike
+like those in Horsey, the proverb says."
+
+But the wind had fallen as suddenly as it arose, and the glamour of a
+fiery sunset shone over the silent mere. An occasional cry of coot, or
+duck, or splash of fish, and the distant sound of the sea, but emphasized
+the stillness around us. We sat on the cabin roof, and talked lazily, as
+the dusk came slowly on, and our voices were low, in unison with the
+evening hush.
+
+"I do not wonder," said Wynne, "that you are so fond of these waters. An
+evening like this, in such watery solitude, makes a strong impression
+upon one."
+
+Horsey Mere is only accessible by water. There is a railway
+station--Martham--about four miles off, but if you walked from there you
+could get no sight of the Broad without a boat, and boats are not
+procurable.
+
+"What are these cushions stuffed with?" asked Wynne, as we lay down for
+the night.
+
+"Horse-hair, I expect; but then age has made them hard and crabbed."
+
+"Well, I think that the sleeping accommodation might be vastly improved
+in your Norfolk boats generally. Canvas cots or hammocks, air beds and
+pillows, would all be better than the thin cushions there are in the
+cutter. I sha'n't sleep to-night, for I have pins and needles all over
+me already."
+
+And in five minutes he was snoring! One could sleep on a deal plank, or
+even on an oak one, after a few days and nights on the Broads.
+
+We woke very early in the morning, and found that a brisk breeze had
+sprung up, and that the lateener had dragged her moorings and drifted
+into the reeds. She had taken no harm, for, short of being run down by a
+wherry, there are no dangers of shipwreck on the Broads, and you might
+drift about unmoored, for all the hurt there is likely to accrue.
+
+ [Picture: Sound Asleep]
+
+After a hurried breakfast we hoisted the foresail, and tore down the dyke
+into Heigham Sounds, across which we sped fast, throwing the shallow
+water into waves, which shook the reeds mightily. When we emerged from
+Kendal dyke into the main stream, we turned to the left, and in less than
+a mile reached Martham Ferry, which was stretched across the river while
+some wagons were passing across. This ferry is a large raft, which is
+kept in a recess on either side of the river, and floated across,
+reaching from bank to bank when required. There is no one to tend it,
+and if it happens to be on the other side, a wayfarer must wait until
+some one appears on the other side to get it across. It is a wonderfully
+clumsy thing to look at, and is not regarded with friendly eyes by the
+wherrymen, who run their wherries full tilt against it too often at
+night, or when, with the wind astern, they are unable to stop. One
+wherryman, exasperated beyond endurance, let his wherry go at it with all
+her force when running before half a gale, but only smashed the bows of
+his vessel, not moving the ferry a bit or injuring it, for it is heavily
+bound with iron to withstand such experiments.
+
+We sailed to and fro until the wagons had passed, but a wherry coming up
+had to lower her sail in a hurry, and then struck the raft with great
+force before it could be drawn away. This jammed it diagonally across
+the river, and it was half an hour before it could be moved.
+
+At the other side of the ferry, and at the mouth of a dyke, is a capital
+place for pike and large eels, and I can conceive of no better-looking
+pike place than the mile of stream between here and Somerton or Martham
+Broad. The water is deep and clear, with a stratum of lily leaves, about
+four feet below the surface, and here and there lilies on the surface.
+As we sailed over its glassy surface, not ruffled by the crossing wind,
+on account of the high reeds and grasses, we could see thousands of fish
+of all sizes darting away beneath us; and at the end of the main dyke,
+where it divides into two, is a deep, clear pool, with a hard, gravelly
+bottom, where there are any quantity of perch and large roach. It is the
+beau-ideal of a spot for bottom-fishing, but "fine and far off" must you
+fish, for the water, though deep, is passing clear. It is easily
+accessible from Martham railway station, and preferably from Potter
+Heigham, where, too, you could procure a boat.
+
+The right-hand dyke leads to Somerton Broad, another reed-surrounded
+lake, possessing no particular merit. From Martham ferry we walked up a
+steep road to the village, lying around a broad green, and had we time we
+would have ascended the tower of the church, which is a conspicuous
+object for miles, and from which a splendid view of sea and lake is
+attainable.
+
+In the church we noted a tablet to one Burraway, whose history is told
+there, but is too unpleasant to be more than referred to here.
+
+After being so long on board a small vessel, one's legs become cramped
+and unfit for walking, and the walk to Martham and back, only a couple of
+miles, quite tired us, and we were glad to get back to our little craft.
+In half an hour's time we were passing under Heigham Bridge, and watching
+our man playing a seven-pound pike in the pool below. On the bank, by
+the cutter, he had arranged for our inspection a score of bream, from one
+pound to three pounds in weight, which he and another had caught early
+that morning and the night before.
+
+Before turning our faces again towards Yarmouth, it may be mentioned that
+yachts may safely be moored to the bank anywhere above Acle, care being
+taken to avoid the obviously shallow parts.
+
+In many places you will notice the eel-sets, which are fixed nets across
+the river for the purpose of intercepting the silver-bellied eels on
+their migration to the sea. These nets are only set at night, and there
+is a man in charge (sheltered in a rough sort of house-boat or hut), to
+lower the nets when craft are passing, so that they do not obstruct the
+navigation. Immense quantities of eels are caught in these nets, and it
+has been proved by an inquiry conducted by the Yare Preservation Society,
+that other fishes are not caught therein, and that the sport of the
+anglers is in no wise interfered with.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter end]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+BACK TO YARMOUTH.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] It was two o'clock when we hoisted a
+reefed sail on the cutter, leaving the lateener in charge of the owner,
+who had joined us, and it was three o'clock when we reached Acle bridge,
+having done the seven miles in the hour, wind and tide with us. We left
+Acle at four, being much delayed in lowering and raising the mast, and
+reached Yarmouth (12 miles) by half-past five; so we made a pretty quick
+passage. We laid by the "Ale Stores" for the night, and were very
+careful to have the yacht strongly moored, for the tide runs fast. We
+were interested in the way the wherries dropped down out of the North
+River, with lowered masts, and a chain or weight out over the bows, so as
+to retard their speed, as they drifted stern first, steering, of course,
+by the pressure of the faster-flowing tide against the rudder. We had
+intended to drop down in a similar way, through the swing bridge just
+below us, and to go, by sea, to Lowestoft, a distance of only eight
+miles; but as the wind kept getting up, and Breydon was white with foam,
+we put off making up our minds until the morning, for the
+disproportionate bowsprits and open wells of the river yachts are not
+very suitable for sea work.
+
+Of course, we strolled upon the pier, and then returned to the quay-side
+by moonlight. We found that it was dead low water, and that the yacht
+had receded so much below the level of the quay, that no plank within
+reach would touch her. The man was in the forepeak fast asleep, and it
+was a long time before we could wake him, and then we jumped on to some
+wherries lying near, and he brought the jolly to us.
+
+[Picture: Perch] We woke at times during the night, and felt the boat
+swaying, and heard the wind howling in the rigging to a very pretty tune.
+In the morning there was no abatement, and although it was off the land,
+we shirked the wetting we should get at sea, and decided to go over
+Breydon, and up the Waveney. As the tide would not make until the middle
+of the morning, we took the jolly and rowed down to the harbour mouth at
+Gorleston. It is interesting to note how, for three miles, the river
+flows parallel with the sea, and, on the average, under half a mile from
+it, the dividing land being nothing more substantial than shingle and
+sand. Deeply interesting is it, also, to read of the early struggles of
+the inhabitants of Yarmouth to maintain a navigable waterway. Sometimes
+the river would open a new outlet for itself, and sometimes they made a
+new one for it; and, time after time, the river mouth got silted up with
+the wearing away of this soft eastern shore. Even now there is often
+insufficient water at the bar for deeply-laden vessels of ordinary size,
+and the entrance is particularly unsafe for sailing vessels to enter
+unassisted at certain times. Picturesque sights abound on the river, and
+the quays. Fishing smacks taking their brown nets on board from carts
+ranged alongside; boats of every form and size hauled up on the beach;
+vessels building; and vessels in dry docks, undergoing repairs; a regular
+covey of smacks, in tow of a powerful steam tug, and hundreds of similar
+sights of deep interest to a man bitten with the joint love of the water
+and the picturesque.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+YARMOUTH TO SOMERLEYTON.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] On reaching the yacht, after rowing
+back with the first of the flow, we started with two reefs down to beat
+over Breydon, on which the wind against the tide raised a respectable
+sea. There was a great deal of weight in the wind, for it was veering
+towards the south-west, having been north-west all night, and a strong
+south-west wind is generally full of puffs and squalls. Many times we
+had the water over the coamings of the well, and the lee plankways were
+always awash.
+
+"This is something like fun!" gasped Wynne, as he eased off the jib sheet
+to a squall, and the salt foam dashed in his face; "but there won't be
+much skin left on my hands by the time we get to the top of Breydon.
+These enormous jibs are horrible things to have to work. If the yachts
+had finer bows, they would not want nearly so much head-sail, and would
+go as fast, if not faster."
+
+This was heresy to our man, who had seen no other rig for river boats all
+his life, and he and Wynne had a heated argument on the matter, without
+either being much the wiser.
+
+On reaching the top of Breydon, we turned to the left, up the Waveney,
+for half a mile, as far as Burgh Castle, passing over the dreaded Burgh
+flats, where a wherry and a yacht were both hard aground, waiting for the
+tide to float them off. The deep water channel is not near the line of
+posts as one would imagine, but close along the west shore. We touched
+two or three times, but did not stick, and at last moored alongside a
+wherry, and landed to inspect the ruins on the top of the hill. No one
+passing along these waters should miss the ruins of Burgh Castle, a Roman
+station of great interest.
+
+There is a very extensive stretch of massive wall, with towers at
+intervals, and at the corners; and we spent a considerable time in making
+sketches of the ruins, and admiring the extensive view.
+
+We could, if we chose, continue on up the Waveney, but the next five
+miles of river are narrow, uninteresting, and with a heavy run of tide,
+while at the end is a fixed bridge--St. Olave's, where the mast would
+have to be lowered. So we turned back into the Yare, and sailed up to
+the mouth of the new cut at Reedham. This is a ship canal, about three
+miles long, connecting the Yare with the Waveney. The tide flows and
+ebbs from the Reedham end of it. It is perfectly straight, and if the
+wind should be straight up or down it, there is nothing for it but to
+tow. Now, however, we had a beam wind, and tore along merrily enough.
+But trouble was in store for us. The canal is wide enough, but it is not
+kept "didled" out ("didling," or "dydling," being a Norfolk term for
+dredging, with scoops at the end of poles, and lifting the mud on to the
+banks), and the sides are very shallow. In the distance, we saw a large
+_billy-boy_, or topsail smack, from the Thames, and as we approached, it
+became only too plain from the rake of her mast, that she was aground in
+the very middle of the channel. We got the mainsail down directly, and
+ran along under the jib, and then, as we expected, ran aground alongside
+of her. A wherry coming behind lowered her sail, and stopped in time.
+The smack was laden with rice for Messrs. Colmans' Works, and her
+skipper, instead of going round by Yarmouth, had tried the short cut by
+Lowestoft. After much shoving and towing we got past, and left the smack
+patiently waiting the rise of the tide, or the arrival of a tug.
+
+[Since the foregoing was written, the Cut has been much improved in depth
+by dredging, and piling the banks.]
+
+There is very good fishing to be had in the cut, and the banks are sound
+and dry, which is a rare thing on these rivers. There is a lift-bridge
+at Haddiscoe railway station, near the end of the cut, which takes some
+time to get opened; this is a great inconvenience, and even a serious
+matter when you are sailing fast, as there is not room to come about.
+They also sometimes fail to open the bridge wide enough, and some time
+since a large yacht had her mainsail torn as she passed through, by its
+catching on the corner of the uplifted bridge. A toll of 1s. for each
+yacht is taken, and a man holds out a bag on the end of a pole to receive
+it. The toll for wherries depends in amount upon whether they have the
+bridge opened for them or go through with mast lowered, and at night a
+chain used to be put across to prevent them stealing through unobserved,
+but the chain was frequently "charged" at full speed, and broken.
+
+In a quarter of a mile we emerged into the Waveney, and, looking back, we
+could see St. Olave's bridge, a rather handsome structure. There are a
+few houses grouped rather prettily, and a good inn, the "Bell," close by
+the Bridge, a quarter of a mile from Haddiscoe station, and about a mile
+from Fritton Decoy, a favourite lake for fishing, which we shall
+afterwards mention.
+
+ [Picture: Somerleyton Hall]
+
+We then passed through a railway swing bridge, where the East Suffolk
+Railway passes over, and sailed without further incident some two miles
+further to another swing bridge at Somerleyton, where the Lowestoft line
+passes over. This bridge is the worst on the rivers to pass when wind
+and tide are against you, as they so frequently are, and I am always glad
+to be well clear of its piles and projections, through which the tide
+swirls so swiftly.
+
+The reach below the bridge used to be the best in the whole river for
+pike, but the greater run of tide in recent years and the salter water
+has spoiled the pike fishing, for which one has now to go higher up the
+river.
+
+There is a very good inn at the top of the bank to the west of the line,
+called the "Duke's Head," and a very beautiful belt of woods skirts the
+marshes on the east side of the river, where some delicious "bits" may be
+obtained, and birds, butterflies, and flowers abound.
+
+[Picture: Dace] Somerleyton village is well worth a visit, for the owner
+of the estate has built some most artistic cottages and houses, which,
+with another score of years' wear, will be beautiful. The hall, occupied
+by Sir Savile Crossley, M.P., stands in a sylvan park.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+FROM SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLES.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] The angling in all this part of the
+Waveney is extremely good, and the bream and roach are of large size. It
+is not nearly so much frequented as the other rivers or the upper part of
+the Waveney, and is practically unfished, on account of the difficulty in
+obtaining boats, there being no boating-station nearer than Oulton Broad,
+five miles away. Still, it is worth while rowing from Oulton Broad, half
+way to Somerleyton, for the takes of bream there lately have been
+wonderful, both as to size and number. The river is broad and deep, and
+one part is as good as another, provided that you select a sufficient
+depth of water.
+
+We had no time to fish, and as a matter of fact I cannot stay to fish, if
+there is a good breeze blowing; sailing first, fishing after!
+
+We lay to at the mouth of Oulton dyke, to get our lunch, which we had put
+off rather too long. The dyke is nearly as broad as the river, and a
+mile and a half long, leading to Oulton Broad, which we intended to
+visit, after going up the Waveney to Beccles. At the junction of the
+dyke with the river there is an excellent fishing spot, with a great
+depth of water. While we lay there, a large two-masted vessel, a
+brigantine of 100 tons, came along the dyke at a good pace, with topsails
+only set, and looked as if she were going to scoop all the water out of
+the river with her great bluff bows. Her crew were pointing out to us,
+as we lay on the Waveney, and presently the hail came across the narrow
+neck of marsh, "Do we turn up past you to go to Beccles?"
+
+"Yes, sharp to port; right around!"
+
+The topsails came down, and the mainsail went up with great celerity, and
+with the aid of her aft canvas, and the helm hard over, she came round
+the acute angle of the sharp bend with creditable quickness, looking a
+veritable Goliath on those comparatively narrow waters. As she was now
+head to wind, down came her canvas, and half-a-dozen men went ashore with
+a long line to tow, and tow they did all the way to Beccles, 13 miles, by
+which time they must have had enough of it. She was in sight all day
+over the marsh.
+
+After lunch, we sailed up the Waveney, having to tack a good portion of
+the way; but the river is so tortuous that some of the reaches can be
+sailed whichever way the wind is, without tacking.
+
+"How remarkably clear the water is!" remarked Wynne.
+
+"Yes, those weeds you see are 14 feet at least below us, and the river is
+deep close up to the banks. It is a very pleasant river to sail upon."
+
+"And what a lot of small fish there are!"
+
+"Yes. The Waveney ought to be the best bottom-fishing river in England,
+it is so deep, clear, and sweet, but the poachers used to harry it
+dreadfully, with their long, small-meshed nets, and it was even _trawled_
+up by smacks, to get bait for sea-fishing, but the Norfolk and Suffolk
+Fisheries Act has stopped all that, or nearly all, and the river is
+rapidly recovering itself. There are some very large perch in it, and
+wherever you see the bank gravelly and free from reeds, the bottom will
+be hard too, and a haunt of perch. Look at those bulrushes."
+
+"What huge ones, and what a quantity of them!"
+
+"Yes, the marshmen sometimes dry the heads, and rub them up to stuff
+pillows and cushions with."
+
+On the north bank is the church of Burgh St. Peter, the tower of which is
+built in gradually-lessening steps, and presents a very strange,
+un-English appearance.
+
+The sail up to Beccles is a very pleasant one, and pretty bits
+continually present themselves. Two miles below Beccles there is a swing
+railway bridge, which is tolerably easy to get through, as there is not a
+great rush of tide through it, as under the bridges lower down.
+
+Beccles church had been a prominent object all the way, and when we
+arrived at Sayer's Grove, so prettily sylvan a place that we decided to
+stay there the night, we went in the useful jolly another mile to Beccles
+bridge, 23 miles from Yarmouth, until lately a narrow arched stone
+structure, but now replaced by a wider and more convenient bridge.
+Passing through, we skirted the town of Beccles, until we came below the
+church, a sight no one should miss who is in the neighbourhood. Viewed
+from the river, it stands on the brow of a hill, in a commanding
+position. Landing, we climbed up a series of steps and reached the
+churchyard, whence a splendid view westward is obtained, the river
+winding in and out through the green marshes towards Bungay. The south
+doorway of the church is richly ornamented, but the peculiar feature of
+the church is that the tower, a very high and massive structure, is
+separate from it.
+
+Beccles is a quiet, old-fashioned place, with good railway accommodation,
+as a glance at the map will show. It is a cheap place to live in, as
+there are no heavy rates, these being defrayed by the letting of valuable
+marshes belonging to the town. It is a healthy little place, and pretty
+withal, and would, I think, be a capital place for retired persons with
+small incomes to settle in.
+
+The river is navigable for wherries and small yachts, for about ten miles
+further up to Bungay, but the navigation is rather troublesome, and there
+are two or three locks to be passed through.
+
+It is worth while to row up the river a few miles to Shipmeadow lock.
+The river all the way is very pretty, with crystal clear water, and the
+lock itself is quaint and old-fashioned.
+
+ [Picture: River Waveney]
+
+After laying in some stores we returned to the yacht, and spent a
+peaceful evening in the shadow of the wooded hill, beneath which we were
+moored.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+OULTON BROAD.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] In the night we were awakened by the
+sound of very heavy rain pattering on the deck and cabin roof, and
+presently we discovered that the recent very dry weather had opened the
+seams of the wood, and sundry persistent droppings evaded our attempts to
+escape them.
+
+"My nose is wearing away with one dreadful drop."
+
+"Then open your mouth and catch it. Oh!"
+
+"What's the matter?"
+
+"A drop went splash into my eye!"
+
+We made merry for a time, but presently it clearly became a case of "a
+drop too much," and we sat up in despair. Just as things were getting
+uncomfortably wet, the storm passed off, and the morning dawned with a
+wondrous clearness and brilliance, while the air was full of the sweet,
+earthy scents that arise after rain. The reeds were fresher and greener,
+and the grasses and flowers glittered in the sun, like the radiant
+ripples on the water. And so, amid the songs of birds and the quickened
+joy of nature, we bowled along down the Waveney at a merry pace, and in
+two hours we had reached the mouth of Oulton Dyke, the sharp turn into
+which necessitated a heavy gibe.
+
+ [Picture: Oulton Broad]
+
+A mile and a half of this and Oulton Broad opened out before us. This is
+the most civilized of all the Broads, and is always gay with yachts
+sailing about, and populous with yachts lying at their moorings. It is
+of an irregular shape, and in the bight, or "ham," at the north-east end
+of it, the yachts are thickly clustered. Also, for what reason it is
+hard to say, many of the old and worn-out fishing smacks of Lowestoft are
+brought into this corner, and moored against the bank, where very many of
+them have sunk, and all are picturesque in the extreme. Some large sea
+yachts also use this bight as a laying-up place for the winter. The
+river yachts and sailing boats are of every size and rig, and a paddle in
+and out among them is of interest to a nautical mind. At the lower end
+of the lake is a lock which gives access for sea-going vessels to Lake
+Lothing, which is a tidal lake, two miles long, ending in Lowestoft
+harbour and the sea. By the lock is one of the most charming hostelries
+it is possible to conceive. It ought to be called the "Angler's Rest,"
+were it not already called the "Wherry Hotel." Here there is capital
+accommodation for anglers, and boats, bait, etc., are provided at
+reasonable rates. There is also another comfortable inn, called the
+"Commodore," and there are two smaller inns, the "Waveney Hotel"--the
+landlord of which, George Smith, is an excellent waterman--and the "Lady
+of the Lake." The railway station is close by, and is now called Oulton
+Broad Station, but was formerly Mutford, that being the name of the
+village at the east end of the Broad. The village is very prettily
+situated between the two lakes, and is only two miles from the sea.
+There are lodgings to be had there, and for a place combining the
+attractions of lake, river, and sea, it has few equals. Of course, the
+Broad is within easy reach of Lowestoft, the most attractive
+watering-place on the coast of Norfolk and Suffolk. It has a fine pier,
+good houses, cliffs, a capital harbour for yachts, a harbour for fishing
+vessels, where the artist will find much that is picturesque, and an old
+part of the town on the higher ground to the north, which has many
+features of interest. It has not the noise and bustle of Yarmouth, but
+it is gay enough for reasonable people.
+
+At Lowestoft, facing the harbour, is the club house of the Norfolk and
+Suffolk Yacht Club, and annual visitors to Lowestoft would find it an
+advantage to join the Yacht Club for the sake of the conveniences
+afforded by the club-house.
+
+Oulton Broad has plenty of fish in it, and the fishing is free. When the
+rivers are flooded, and the rank water off the marshes pours into the
+river, the fish of all kinds crowd into the purer waters of the Broad in
+surprising numbers. Formerly it was noted for its perch, but for some
+time they appear to have decreased in numbers. Lately, however, they
+have been more freely caught. In a few more years the benefits of the
+Norfolk and Suffolk Fisheries Act will be more widely felt, as the
+abundance of small fish in the rivers plainly testifies. Pike are
+present sometimes in great quantity, but the supply seems to fluctuate
+considerably. For a few weeks each season they seem to be uncommonly
+numerous, and large catches are made. Then they fall off, and none are
+caught for some time.
+
+The shooting on the Broad is also free, and in the large room at the
+"Wherry Inn" is a most attractive collection of fishes and birds, which
+have met their death in this locality.
+
+The most interesting and tantalizing inhabitant of the Broad is the grey
+mullet, large shoals of which may be seen disporting themselves on the
+surface. They run to a large size, and seem to average two or three
+pounds in weight. Anglers cannot catch them as a general rule, but some
+persons say that they have succeeded, using small hooks baited with
+strange baits, such as the beard of an oyster, or a bit of boiled cabbage
+stump. I fancy that by using a fly cast, buoyed at intervals by bits of
+cork, and having small hooks baited with gentles, and then paying out a
+long line so as to cover a shoal, some sport might be had. At all
+events, the experiment is worth trying some day when there is no wind for
+sailing. The mullet, when alarmed by a net or other obstruction, has a
+habit of leaping high out of the water, and frequently leaps into boats.
+Once, while I was sailing through Reedham Bridge, a grey mullet, of four
+pounds in weight, leaped into the jolly-boat towing astern, and was
+captured.
+
+[Picture: Ruffe] At Oulton the mullet are often shot with arrows having
+heavy lines attached, while they are accidentally confined in the lock
+between the Broad and Lake Lothing.
+
+Well, we spent the rest of our holiday at Oulton, and as I was saying
+good-bye to Wynne at the station, I asked him what he thought of the
+Broads.
+
+"The finest places for boat-sailing and bottom-fishing in England. I
+shall bring a boat here in the winter for wild-fowl shooting on Breydon,
+and I shall certainly come again next summer."
+
+So ended our cruise.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+ORMESBY AND FRITTON.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] There are still some very important
+Broads in Norfolk and Suffolk, which I could not mention in an account of
+a cruise, because they are not accessible from the navigable waters, and,
+as a matter of fact, I know comparatively little about them for that
+reason. There are the Ormesby, Filby and Rollesby Broads, lying together
+in a straggling group four or five miles north-eastward of Acle.
+Altogether, they contain 800 acres of water, but much of this is
+overgrown by reeds. The Muck Fleet, which we passed below Acle Bridge,
+is their outlet into the river Bure. They are very easily accessible
+from Yarmouth by rail to Ormesby station, on the North Norfolk Railway,
+and boats may be obtained at the Eel's Foot, and the Sportsman's Arms,
+the former having fair staying accommodation. The fishing is free, at
+all events to persons going to the houses named, and uncommonly good
+sport is to be had amongst pike, rudd, and bream, the number of a catch
+being counted by the hundred, and the weight by the stone. For fishing,
+pure and simple, Ormesby Broad is as good a place as any to visit.
+
+ [Picture: Fritton Decoy]
+
+The other lake I have not described is Fritton Decoy, a long curving
+lake, about a mile from St. Olave's station, on the Yarmouth and
+Lowestoft Railway, and Haddiscoe station, on the Norwich and Lowestoft
+Railway. It is only open to anglers from April to September, being
+closed the rest of the year, to protect the wild-fowl decoys, which are
+still worked on it, by the two proprietors. For a note upon these
+decoys, and others in Norfolk, I must refer the reader to a paper upon
+decoys, written by Mr. Thos. Southwell, F.Z.S., published in a new
+edition of that most fascinating book, Lubbock's "Fauna of Norfolk,"
+issued by the publishers of this book, and for descriptive accounts to my
+own larger book, "Norfolk Broads and Rivers," published by Wm. Blackwood
+and Sons.
+
+Fritton is an exceedingly beautiful Broad, and its waters are very deep.
+It is, in fact, a lake, rather than a Broad proper. It is extremely well
+stocked with fish, and good sport may generally be obtained there. Boats
+can be obtained at "Fritton Old Hall."
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter end]
+
+ [Picture: Decorative chapter header]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+RAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS.
+
+
+[Picture: Decorative drop capital] To begin with, it may be well to state
+that Norwich itself can be reached from London by two lines of
+railway--one via Colchester and Ipswich, and the other by Cambridge and
+Ely, the journey taking from three to four hours. From Norwich, Yarmouth
+and Lowestoft may be reached in an hour of slow travelling, and as the
+line runs by the river the whole way, and every station is convenient for
+fishing purposes, it will be desirable to give a list of them, with
+remarks upon the adjacent fishing places.
+
+
+
+WHITLINGHAM.
+
+
+This is too close to Norwich for very good fishing, although occasionally
+the fish seem to head up, and good takes are to be had. Good rowing
+boats may be obtained at Thorpe Gardens, five minutes' walk from the
+station. Omnibuses ply between the Gardens and Norwich every hour. The
+reach of the old river is very lovely.
+
+
+
+BRUNDALL
+
+
+Is the station for "Coldham Hall," at which inn visitors can be
+accommodated. The inn is ten minutes' walk from the station down the
+river, and across the ferry. There are plenty of boats, and the place is
+much frequented. From here down to Buckenham Ferry there are large
+numbers of pike, and it is customary to row down trailing a bait behind.
+Roach and bream are plentiful.
+
+
+
+BUCKENHAM FERRY.
+
+
+From this station you have ten minutes' walk down to the Ferry, where
+boats are to be obtained, and the fishing generally is good.
+
+
+
+CANTLEY.
+
+
+Close by the station is the "Red House" Inn, where there is good
+accommodation for visitors. Boats can be had. The fish, as a rule, run
+larger here than higher up. The water is deep and the tide swift. When
+the water is fairly clear, some good pike may be had.
+
+
+
+REEDHAM.
+
+
+The "Ferry" Inn is ten minutes' walk. Good accommodation. The bream run
+large, so do the perch, of which there used to be large numbers _under
+the ferry boat_.
+
+The line divides at Reedham, one part going to Yarmouth and the other to
+Lowestoft. There is no fishing place on the Yarmouth branch, but on the
+Lowestoft line there are--
+
+
+
+HADDISCOE,
+
+
+whence the Cut may be fished. Boats are difficult to obtain, but the
+landlord of the "Bell" Inn, at St. Olave's bridge, might procure you one.
+This is the station for Fritton Decoy.
+
+
+
+SOMERLEYTON.
+
+
+This would be an excellent fishing station if boats could be procured,
+but you cannot rely upon being able to borrow one. The porters at the
+swing-bridge, or the landlord of the "Duke's Head," might direct you
+where to obtain a boat. I think the latter has one or two. The bream
+are very large and numerous. The good fishing in this part of the river
+has been exemplified by Mr. Winch, of Norwich, who has taken 8 stone in a
+day--five bream weighing 20 lbs., and one bream weighing 6.75 lbs.
+
+
+
+OULTON BROAD.
+
+
+See the last chapter for full information as to this important fishing
+station.
+
+Another line from Norwich leads to--
+
+
+
+WROXHAM.
+
+
+7 miles. The river is full of roach, bream, perch, and pike, although it
+is much fished. Boats at Jimpson's or Whittaker's, where there is also
+fair accommodation for visitors. The Broad is a mile and a half down
+stream, from the bridge. It can be fished by permission only. Tickets
+to fish on the Broad can be obtained through Mr. C. J. Greene, Fishing
+Tackle Maker, London Street, Norwich, at 2s. 6d. per boat.
+
+
+
+COLTISHALL.
+
+
+Two miles further. The fishing is much better here than is generally
+supposed, but boats are not plentiful. Enquire at the waterside who is
+likely to have one at liberty.
+
+The Eastern and Midlands line runs from Yarmouth through the heart of the
+Broad District to North Walsham, on the Norwich, Wroxham, and Cromer
+line. The stations from Yarmouth are--
+
+
+
+ORMESBY.
+
+
+A mile and a half from its Broads, about 200 acres of which are free.
+The fishing is as good as it can be for pike, rudd, roach, and bream.
+Boats at the "Eel's Foot" and "Sportsman's Arms." Staying accommodation
+at the former.
+
+
+
+MARTHAM.
+
+
+Not far from the river Thurne, but the next station is more convenient.
+
+
+
+POTTER HEIGHAM.
+
+
+Inns, the "Falgate" and "Waterman's Arms," where there is staying
+accommodation. Good boats at Applegate's. The river Thurne and the
+channels through Heigham Sounds and Hickling swarm with bream, rudd,
+perch, roach, pike, and eels.
+
+
+
+CATFIELD.
+
+
+The nearest station to Hickling, but not so convenient for boats.
+
+
+
+STALHAM.
+
+
+Barton Broad is within a mile and a half, where the fishing is excellent.
+Plenty of boats obtainable at the end of the dyke. Inns, the "Maid's
+Head" and the "Swan," both very comfortable. Stalham is a pretty
+village.
+
+Thence to North Walsham there is no fishing station of interest.
+
+On the direct line between Yarmouth and Lowestoft, ST. OLAVE'S is the
+nearest station to Fritton.
+
+
+
+ACLE
+
+
+Is now a station on the new line between Norwich and Yarmouth, joining
+the old line at Brundall.
+
+Of places not accessible by rail, the chief is Horning Ferry, on the
+Bure, where there is a capital inn to stay at, kept by a good host and
+sportsman, Mr. Thompson, who can be relied upon to make his visitors
+comfortable. At Horning village, the "New" Inn deserves mention, and
+boats can be procured there. Horning is about four miles' drive from
+Wroxham, and ten from Norwich.
+
+The reader is requested to look at the Map, and note the relative
+position of the various places. As to fishing, it can hardly be said
+that one is better than another, for all are so good.
+
+
+
+
+NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.
+
+
+Under this Act, which was passed in 1877, certain Bye-laws have been
+made, with which the reader should make himself acquainted.
+
+ APPROVED BYE-LAWS.
+
+ CLOSE TIME--ALL WATERS.
+
+1. No person shall fish for, catch, take, or kill, or attempt to
+catch, take, or kill, otherwise than by rod and line, within the
+limits of the above Act, any Trout, between the 10th day of
+September and the 25th day of January, both days inclusive, or any
+other kind of fish, between the 1st day of March and the 30th day
+of June, both days inclusive, except Smelts, Bait, and Eels, as
+hereinafter provided.
+ NETS GENERALLY.
+2. No person shall, for the purpose of taking Fish within the
+ limits of the above Act, do any of the following things:--
+ 1. Use or attempt to use any Net between one hour
+ after sunset and one hour before sunrise, except
+ in the River Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in
+ the River Nene below Wisbeach Bridge.
+ 2. Use or attempt to use, at any time before the
+ 30th day of June, 1890, for the purpose of
+ taking Fish, other than Tench, Smelts, Bait, and
+ Eels, any Net having a mesh of less dimensions
+ when wet than three inches from knot to knot,
+ measured on each side of the square, or twelve
+ inches all round.
+ 3. Use or attempt to use any Net having a wall or
+ facing, with a mesh of less dimensions when wet
+ than seven inches from knot to knot, measured on
+ each side of the square, or 28 inches all round.
+ 4. Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river,
+ any Bow Net.
+ 5. Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river,
+ any Drag Net having a poke or pocket.
+ 6. Use or attempt to use a drag net of any kind in
+ the under-mentioned waters:--
+ 1. The River Yare or Wensum--
+
+ 2. The River Waveney--
+
+ 3. The River Bure, below the lower entrance
+ into Wroxham Broad--
+
+ 4. The River Ant, below the lower entrance into
+ Barton Broad--
+
+ 5. The River Thurne, below the entrance into
+ Somerton Broad--
+ except with the previous permission in writing
+ of the Board of Conservators, under their Common
+ Seal.
+3. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use or
+attempt to use, any net for taking Fish, unless it is sufficiently
+weighted to sink vertically in the water, or take, or attempt to
+take, Fish by placing two or more Nets behind or near to each
+other, or use any other device or artifice so as practically to
+diminish the size of the mesh of any net allowed to be used by
+these Bye-Laws, or to evade this provision.
+ PROHIBITING USE OF TRIMMERS, &C., IN NAVIGABLE RIVERS.
+4. No person shall use, or attempt to use, any Trimmer, Ligger,
+Dead Line, or Snare, or any like Instrument or Engine, for the
+purpose of taking Fish in any navigable river within the limits of
+the above Act, except Lines for taking Eels as hereinafter
+provided.
+ TAKING SMELTS.--RIVERS YARE AND WENSUM.
+5. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
+attempt to use, any Net in the River Yare or Wensum for the purpose
+of taking Smelts, except a Cast Net or Drop Net, between the 10th
+day of March and the 12th day of May, both days inclusive, and then
+only between the New Mills, in the parish of Saint Swithin, in the
+City of Norwich, or Trowse Bridge, in Trowse, or Trowse Newton, and
+the junction of the Rivers Yare and Wensum at a place known as
+Trowse Hythe, and between Hardley Cross and the junction of the
+Rivers Yare and Waveney.
+6. No person shall use, or attempt to use, a Cast Net or Drop Net
+exceeding 16 feet in diameter, in the River Yare or Wensum, within
+the limits of the above Act.
+ TAKING SMELTS.--RIVER WAVENEY.
+7. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
+attempt to use, in the River Waveney, above the Burgh Cement works,
+any Net for the purpose of taking Smelts, except between the 10th
+day of March and the 12th day of May, both days inclusive, and then
+only at the places and by the means hereinafter mentioned, viz.,
+between Rose Hall Fleet, and the Boat-house Hill, near Beccles, and
+in the pen of Shipmeadow Lock, by a Cast Net or Drop Net not
+exceeding 16 feet in diameter, and if any such Net be used between
+one hour after sunset and one hour before sunrise, the same shall
+be used with a light or flare, and not otherwise.
+ TAKING SMELTS.--RIVERS OUSE, NAR, AND NENE.
+8. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, take or
+kill, or attempt to take or kill, Smelts in the Rivers Ouse, Nar,
+or Nene, between the 1st day of April and the 31st day of August,
+both days inclusive.
+9. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use or
+attempt to use, in the Rivers Ouse, Nar, or Nene, for the purpose
+of taking Smelts, any Net having a mesh of less dimensions, when
+wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot to knot, measured on
+each side of the square.
+ TAKING SMELTS.--BREYDON WATER.
+10. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
+attempt to use, in the water known as Breydon Water, for the
+purpose of taking Smelts, any Net in the months of May, June, July,
+and August, or any Net between the 1st day of September and the
+30th day of April, both days inclusive, having a mesh of less
+dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot to
+knot, measured on each side of the square.
+ TAKING BAIT.--NAVIGABLE RIVERS.
+11. No person shall, for the purpose of taking Bait in any
+navigable river within the limits of the above Act (except in the
+River Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in the River Nene below
+Wisbeach Bridge), use any Net other than a Cast Net, or any Cast
+Net having a mesh of less dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths
+of an inch from knot to knot, measured on each side of the square.
+ TAKING BAIT.--ALL WATERS.
+12. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
+attempt to use, any Cast Net exceeding twelve yards in
+circumference, between the 11th day of October and the 1st day of
+April in each year, or any Cast Net exceeding eight yards in
+circumference at any other time of the year, or any such net,
+having a sack, or purse exceeding fourteen inches in depth, when
+extended, for the purpose of taking Fish for Bait; and the word
+"Bait" shall mean Roach, Rudd or Roud, Bream, Dace, Ruff or Pope,
+Gudgeons, and Minnows, measuring less than eight inches from the
+nose to the fork of the tail.
+13. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, Net for
+Bait at any time on a Sunday; and no person shall, within such
+limits, Net for Bait at any time on a week-day except between one
+hour before sunrise and one hour after sunset, nor unless such Bait
+is for use in angling, or trolling, or taking Eels within the
+limits of the above Act.
+ TAKING EELS.--RIVERS YARE AND WENSUM, ABOVE HARDLEY CROSS.
+14. No person shall, for the purpose of taking Eels in the Rivers
+Yare and Wensum, above Hardley Cross, do any of the following
+things:--
+ 1. Use or attempt to use in the months of
+ April, May, and June, a line with a hook or
+ hooks, except in connection with a rod used
+ for the purpose of Angling.
+ 2. Use or attempt to use any Net in the months
+ of April, May, and June.
+ 3. Use or attempt to use at any other time of
+ the year, a Line, whether fixed or not,
+ with more than one hook, except in
+ connection with a rod used for the purpose
+ of Angling.
+ 4. Use or attempt to use any Net other than a
+ Skim or Skein Net.
+ TAKING EELS.--ALL OTHER WATERS.
+15. In all other waters within the limits of the above Act, lines
+with one hook only, whether fixed or not, and fixed Nets, but no
+others, may be used at any time for taking Eels only.
+16. No person shall use or attempt to use, in any water within the
+limits of the above Act, a Dag or Spear, for the purpose of taking
+Fish other than Eels.
+ ALL WATERS.
+17. Any person, within the limits of the above Act, taking any
+Fish except Smelts, Eels, or Bait in any Net allowed by the Bye
+Laws to be used for taking Smelts, Eels, or Bait respectively,
+shall immediately return such first-mentioned Fish to the water
+without avoidable injury.
+18. The foregoing Bye-laws shall not apply to any other than
+fresh-water Fish, or to the water known as Breydon Water, except as
+to Smelts, as hereinbefore provided.
+
+_I hereby certify that the foregoing is a true Copy of the Bye-laws made
+by the Board of Conservators under the above Act, and that such Bye-laws
+have been approved by one of Her Majesty's Principal Secretaries of
+State, and have been duly advertised as approved Bye-laws in newspapers
+circulated in the Counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, and have been
+otherwise published as the Board directed._
+
+_Sealed by order of the Board._
+
+
+
+
+TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.
+
+ FROM CARROW BRIDGE.
+ YARE.
+ _Miles_.
+To Trowse Hythe .5
+,, Thorpe Second Bridge 1.5
+,, Whitlingham Ferry 2
+,, Corby's Dyke 2.25
+,, Postwick Grove 3.25
+,, ,, Hall 3.75
+,, Wood's End 4.25
+,, Wilde's Cottage 4.5
+,, Surlingham Ferry 5.75
+,, Coldham Hall 7.75
+,, Walpole's Reed Bush 9
+,, Buckenham Ferry 10
+,, Hassingham Dyke 10.75
+,, Langley Dyke 11.75
+To Cantley Red House 12.75
+,, Devil's House 13.25
+,, Hardley Mill 14
+,, ,, Dyke 14.25
+,, ,, Cross 15.25
+,, Norton Staithe 15.25
+,, Reedham Ferry 15.5
+,, ,, End of New Cut 17
+,, Upper Seven Mile House 18.5
+,, Berney Arms 20.75
+,, Burgh Flats 21
+,, Yarmouth Drawbridge 25
+,, Gorleston Pierhead 27.25
+ FROM REEDHAM BRIDGE.
+ WAVENEY.
+To Herringfleet Bridge 3
+,, Somerleyton Bridge 4.5
+,, Oulton Dyke 7.5
+,, ,, Broad 8.75
+To Mutford Lock 9.75
+,, Lowestoft Bridge 11.5
+,, ,, Pierhead 11.75
+ FROM YARMOUTH BRIDGE.
+ YARE.
+To Berney Arms 4.25
+,, Reedham Town 8
+,, Norton Staithe 9.75
+,, Hardley Cross 10
+,, Cantley 12.5
+,, Buckenham Ferry 15
+,, Coldham Hall 18.25
+,, Surlingham Ferry 19.75
+,, Bramerton Wood's End 21
+,, Postwick Grove 22
+,, Whitlingham 23
+,, Carrow Bridge 25
+ WAVENEY.
+To Burgh Cage 4.75
+,, St. Olave's Bridge 9.5
+,, Mouth of New Cut 9.75
+,, Somerleyton Bridge 12.25
+,, Mouth of Oulton Dyke 15
+,, Carlton Share Mill 16.25
+,, Seven-Mile Corner 17.75
+,, Six-Mile Corner 18.75
+,, Worlingham Staithe 20
+,, Aldeby Staithe 20.5
+,, Beccles Mill 21
+,, Sayer's Grove 22
+,, Beccles Bridge 23
+,, Nine Poplars 24.25
+To Dawson's Dip House 24.75
+,, Barsham's Boat House 25.75
+,, Mouth of Oulton Dyke 15
+,, Horse Shoe Point 16
+,, Oulton Broad 16.5
+,, Mutford Bridge 17.25
+,, Lowestoft Bridge 19
+,, Length of New Cut 2.5
+BURE.
+To Three-Mile House 3
+,, Runham Swim 5.5
+,, Six-Mile House 6.5
+,, Seven-Mile House 8.5
+,, Stokesby Ferry 10
+,, Acle Bridge 12
+,, Fishley Mill 12.5
+,, Thurne Mouth 15.25
+,, St. Benet's Abbey 17
+,, Mouth of Ant 17.5
+,, Horning Ferry 21
+,, Horning Point 22
+,, Wroxham Broad 25.5
+,, Wroxham Bridge 27
+,, Belaugh 31
+,, Coltishall Bridge 34
+,, Aylsham Bridge 45
+ THURNE.
+To Thurne Mouth 15.25
+,, Potter Heigham Bridge 19
+,, Candler's Dyke 19.5
+,, Hickling Staithe 22.25
+ ANT.
+To Mouth of Ant 17.5
+,, Ludham Bridge 18.25
+,, Mouth of Barton Broad 21.75
+,, End of Barton Broad 22.5
+,, Stalham 23.5
+,, Stalham Staithe 24.25
+From Yarmouth Bridge to Runham Swim 5.5
+ ,, ,, ,, Six-Mile House 6.5
+ ,, ,, ,, Seven-Mile House 8.5
+ ,, ,, ,, Stokesby Ferry 10
+ ,, ,, ,, Acle Bridge 12
+From Acle Bridge to Fishley Mill .5
+ ,, ,, ,, Thurne Mouth 3.25
+ ,, ,, ,, St. Benet's 5
+ ,, ,, ,, Mouth of Ant 5.5
+ ,, ,, ,, Horning Rectory 7.5
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Ferry 9
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Point 10
+ ,, ,, ,, Entrance to Wroxham Broad 13.5
+ ,, ,, ,, Wroxham Bridge 15
+From Wroxham Bridge to Belaugh 4
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Coltishall 7
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Aylsham 18
+From Yarmouth Bridge to Wroxham Bridge 27
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Coltishall 34
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Aylsham 45
+From Thurne Mouth to Heigham Bridge 3.75
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Kendal Dyke 4.25
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Hickling Staithe 7
+From River Ant to Ludham Bridge .75
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, Mouth of Barton Broad 4.25
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, End of ,, ,, 5
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, End of Stalham Broad 6
+ ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, Staithe 6.75
+
+TIDES.
+
+ h. m.
+It is high water at Lowestoft 0 43 later than at
+ Yarmouth Bar
+,, ,, ,, ,, Cantley 3 0 ,, ,,
+ ,, ,,
+ ,,
+,, ,, ,, ,, Coldham 4 0 ,, ,,
+Hall ,, ,,
+ ,,
+,, ,, ,, ,, Oulton 4 0 ,, ,,
+ ,, ,,
+ ,,
+,, ,, ,, ,, Horning 4 0 ,, ,,
+ ,, ,,
+ ,,
+
+The Tide flows and ebbs in the Bure one hour later than at Yarmouth
+Bridge.
+
+ Springs. Neap.
+The rise at Yarmouth is 6 feet 4.5 feet
+,, ,, ,, Lowestoft ,, 6.5 ,, 5.25 ,,
+,, ,, ,, Cantley ,, 2.5 ,, 1.5 ,,
+,, ,, ,, Oulton ,, 2 ,, 1.25 ,,
+
+
+The Tides, however, vary according to the strength and direction of the
+wind and the quantity of flood water in the river.
+
+
+
+
+FISHING GENERALLY.
+
+
+In the rivers it is customary to fish in 10 to 14 feet of water, and the
+shortness of the swims necessitates the line being heavily weighted, in
+order that it may sink rapidly. The floats are necessarily large,
+particularly when used for the lower reaches, where there is a
+considerable tidal current. The boats are moored in a line with the
+stream, not across it, as on the Thames, and the swims are thus very
+short. For the upper and clearer waters, the Nottingham system of
+angling might be advisable, but in the more turbid lower reaches the
+Norfolk style is practically the best. Worms are used for bream, and
+paste for roach. Worms are procurable at some of the tackle shops, but
+anglers will do well to provide them for themselves if possible.
+
+Boats are charged for at the rate of from 1s. to 2s. a-day, but are
+rather rough concerns, except at Oulton.
+
+Ground-bait, consisting chiefly of meal and clay, is largely used, but a
+place is rarely baited beforehand. As there is ample choice of stations,
+always moor so that the wind is at your back, and you will thus have
+smooth water in front of you.
+
+Small roach as bait for pike, are procurable at most of the waterside
+inns, at 1s. to 1s. 6d. a score, but to get the best sport obtain fish
+from other waters, particularly dace and gudgeon.
+
+Pike are, of course, the chief fish in Norfolk, and are plentiful
+everywhere. In the rivers they do not run very large, a ten-pound fish
+being considered a good one, but in a few years' time, with the freedom
+from netting the rivers now enjoy, we may expect some very large ones to
+be caught in the rivers. In private waters there are veritable monsters,
+but the stranger is not likely to make acquaintance with them.
+
+Live-baiting and spinning with a spoon, or artificial bait trailed behind
+a boat, are the usual modes of fishing for pike in Norfolk. Trolling
+with a dead gorge, and spinning with a dead bait by casting, as in the
+Thames, are comparatively rarely practised, although I believe that in
+some portions of the rivers these methods would "pay." I have seen
+fly-fishing for pike practised with success here, and I firmly believe
+that on some of the shallower Broads it would be very deadly.
+
+ [Picture: Ormesby Broad--Landing stage]
+
+Perch are only locally common wherever there is a suitable bottom for
+them, as at Irstead Shoals and Hickling, and in some portions of the Bure
+and Waveney, but they run to a large size, and are sometimes caught
+between three and four pounds in weight.
+
+Bream are most common of all, and may be caught by hundreds and the stone
+weight. They run up to five and six pounds in weight, and a take by two
+rods in a day of 150, averaging half-a-pound apiece, is not a rare event.
+
+Roach are very numerous and large, many running close to two pounds in
+weight.
+
+Rudd are beautiful game fish, common in some of the Broads, particularly
+Ormesby, and give rare sport if you get among a shoal of them.
+
+Eels are, of course, present in any number, and "babbing" for them, with
+a bunch of worms threaded on to worsted, is not a bad way of passing a
+warm night.
+
+Tench are common, but are not often caught with a rod and line. They are
+taken in bow nets, and run very large. In hot weather, in June, they may
+be taken by the hand as they bask in the shallow water among the weeds.
+Some fishermen are very skilful in this particular mode of catching them.
+
+Carp are caught sometimes, but not often, although there are plenty of
+them.
+
+Dace and gudgeon are not so frequently caught in the navigable waters as
+other fish.
+
+Chub and barbel are unknown in the Broad District.
+
+The bream are so excessively abundant that they spoil the fishing for
+other fish, notably for perch, and I think it would be an excellent thing
+if the different preservation societies would set apart a few days each
+year for systematic netting to thin the bream, replacing the other fish,
+and selling those retained. What is the good to anglers of catching
+thousands of small bream? Are not a score over a pound weight each
+better than ten-score fingerlings? Judicious thinning out, under proper
+supervision, would have a most beneficial effect on the size of the fish
+generally.
+
+There are several preservation societies, of which the Yare Preservation
+Society is the chief. Mr. C. J. Greene, of London Street, Norwich,
+Fishing Tackle Maker, is the honorary secretary. The objects of these
+societies are to abolish netting and poaching, and protect the river for
+fair angling. The subscriptions are nominal (5s.), and yet they are
+supported entirely by local efforts. As a rule, none of the anglers from
+London and other distant parts, who come down to Norfolk and have the
+best of sport, contribute anything to the societies which are
+instrumental in furnishing them with sport. This is exceedingly shabby
+of visitors here, and I trust that those who have been induced to visit
+the Broads through my writings will at least make the small return to
+Norfolk anglers of assisting them in their efforts to make these waters
+the best public fishing places in the kingdom.
+
+There are a few professional fishermen to be hired by the angler.
+"Professor" Day, of Richmond Hill, Norwich, is one of the best, and knows
+every inch of water, and there are some good men at Oulton.
+
+Strangers frequently complain that they cannot meet with the excellent
+sport which falls to the lot of the local anglers, and I remember Mr.
+Cholmondeley Pennel being immensely dispirited at his non-success on our
+waters. I lately interviewed a local gentleman who is well known as a
+successful fisherman, and I append my questions and his remarks thereon,
+which will afford some valuable information.
+
+
+
+ROACH.
+
+
+_1. Where found at different periods of the year_?
+
+Throughout the summer the entire length of our local streams where the
+water is fresh and not salt or brackish; the finest fish and greatest
+number between Cantley and Coldham Hall, on the Yare; large numbers also
+in the dyke leading from Oulton Broad. In winter they appear generally
+to retire to the deep waters, and are sometimes found in good quantity
+about Thorpe Broad, and may be angled for with success in deep spots on
+the Bure and other waters.
+
+_2. Best periods to fish for them_?
+
+July to October, but good catches may often be had in November, and
+during the winter and early spring months by any expert angler who
+doesn't mind the cold.
+
+_3. What time of day at different seasons_?
+
+As a rule, but few fish are caught during the middle of the day; this is
+especially the case in bright warm weather. On dull, "close" days,
+however, they will often bite freely throughout the day. The morning up
+to about 11.30, and from 3 to 6 or 7 p.m. are undoubtedly the best times
+to fish during summer, and in winter almost any time up to sunset.
+
+_4. What depth of water_?
+
+As a rule, the best fish are found during summer in the deepest water,
+and should not be angled for on the Yare at a less depth than nine or ten
+feet. On the Bure the deepest spots that can be found. In March or
+April shallower waters should be tried.
+
+_5. How affected by the tide_?
+
+Variously. Sometimes an angler gets all his fish on the up tide, and at
+other times on the ebb. I, however, suspect that certain local
+formations of the river bed, have much to do with this.
+
+_6. What ground-bait_?
+
+The best I have ever used is composed of bran, bread, and boiled wheat,
+in fair proportions, made up into firm balls about the size of an orange.
+One of these thrown in occasionally, and now and then a few grains of
+boiled wheat will generally suffice to keep a good quantity of fish about
+your boat.
+
+_7. Are places ever baited beforehand_?
+
+Not often for roach. Believe this is done occasionally by some, but have
+never practised it myself.
+
+_8. What baits are most successful_?
+
+During summer the most successful baits are well-boiled wheat and paste,
+red or white, in such clear waters as the Waveney and the upper reaches
+of Bure, etc. White paste is best on the Yare, the red always kills the
+best fish. In autumn, gentles, and later on brandlings and gentles, or
+better still, small red worms, "blood." There are many other baits used
+with good success occasionally, but these are by far the most reliable.
+
+_9. What kind of rod_?
+
+For tight-line fishing in the deep waters of the Yare, the rod should be
+light, stiff, and from 15 to 18 feet in length. For running tackle a
+shorter rod will do, and for this I prefer one of hickory. Should
+recommend cane for the longer kind.
+
+_10. Number of hook_?
+
+When the fish are of fair size, I use No. 9, at other times Nos. 10 or
+12. Those known amongst anglers as "Crystal," are excellent for roach
+fishing.
+
+_11. Is running tackle advisable_?
+
+Running tackle is decidedly preferable for such deep, strong waters as
+those between Coldham Hall and Reedham. For the slower waters of the
+Bure and the upper reaches of the Yare, I do not consider that running
+tackle has any advantages worth naming.
+
+_12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of line_?
+
+For deep-water fishing I always attach nine feet of gut to my line; six
+feet moderately stout and three feet fine drawn. Line, a fine _braided_
+silk. A light, well-shotted line of this kind has many advantages,
+especially on a windy day.
+
+_13. What kind of float_?
+
+Quill at all times. For deep swift waters, a large pelican or swan
+quill, for slower and shallower waters a much smaller one.
+
+_14. Is line heavily shotted_?
+
+For deep waters I use a float carrying upwards of 20 medium-sized shot.
+These are placed on a space of about a foot, the bottom one not nearer
+than about three feet from the hook, with just one shot on the gut
+attached to hook. This arrangement ensures the bait being carried
+swiftly to the bottom and kept steady, very important items in roach
+fishing.
+
+_15. Is float best attached by lower end only_?
+
+Yes, this plan which has been in practice with the "Norwich School" for
+many years past is decidedly the best, and admits of much more neatness
+and accuracy in striking a fish than when the float is attached by upper
+end as well as lower.
+
+_16. Do you strike at first dip_?
+
+When good fish are on the feed, the float is first affected by a slight
+tremulous movement, and almost immediately settles down, generally in a
+slanting direction; the moment to strike is just as the settling down
+commences. This, however, requires a large amount of practice and some
+keen observation before an angler becomes expert. Sudden perky bites
+indicate small fish, and these are often the most difficult to catch.
+
+_17. Are the fish much affected by change of wind, rain, thick water,
+etc., and is there any rule on this head_?
+
+Have always found a S.W. to N.W. wind the most favourable, especially
+when the water is "grey" or thick, and have had capital sport with a
+moderate east wind, but never when it has blown strongly from that
+quarter, and the old maxim
+
+ "When the wind blows from the east
+ The fish bite the least,
+ When the wind's from the west
+ The fish bite the best,"
+
+contains a great truth in small compass. Fish may undoubtedly be taken
+in clear water and in good quantity, but running tackle and fine, and
+extreme caution are necessary.
+
+_18. Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or loud talking
+frightens the fish_?
+
+Loud talking or laughter in the boat does not appear to intimidate the
+fish, but knocking or any disturbance which communicates a vibration to
+the water is decidedly objectionable, especially in shallower streams,
+and often causes a great interruption to the fishing. Have found a pair
+of lawn-tennis shoes or slippers very good to wear in a boat when
+fishing, for this reason.
+
+_19. Name some of the best catches you have made or know of_.
+
+I do not chronicle my catches, so can give no dates; but have had some
+fine catches within the past five or six years, principally on the Yare.
+On one occasion, at Buckenham, with a friend, six stone {160} between
+2.30 and 7 p.m.; another time upwards of five stone in about the same
+space of time, and numerous catches of from two to four stone in an
+afternoon's fishing; also more than a bushel by measure one afternoon
+with a friend fishing in the dyke leading to Oulton Broad. This was in
+the first week of September, 1879.
+
+_20. What is the reason of the non-success of strange anglers which is
+so noticeable_?
+
+Ignorance of the general requirements of tackle suitable for fishing in
+our waters, and also of the _modus operandi_, one of the chief reasons
+being a want of knowledge of the right depth at which to fish, which
+could easily be known by simply "plumbing" the depth. By way of
+instance, I have on several occasions found strangers fishing on the Yare
+in 12 or 14 feet of water, with their baits only about four or five feet
+below the surface, and at the same time wondering that anglers close by
+should be catching plenty of fish when they could get none. Baits, too,
+are doubtless used which, although very good for some streams or waters,
+are of very little use with us.
+
+N.B.--"When the wind blows strong and the waves roll high," it is often
+very difficult to fish or even to detect a bite. This is very
+tantalising, and not infrequently happens through a shift in the wind
+when you are in a capital "swim." The remedy for this is to put on a
+nice light ledger, with about three hooks, and with which excellent sport
+may sometimes be had when it would be impossible to fish in any other
+way.
+
+In float fishing for roach, the bait should be just touching the bottom.
+A good plan adopted by some is to fish with two hooks, the bottom one
+dragging on the bottom, and the upper one about three or four inches
+clear of the bottom. This is an advantage in fast streams, as it retards
+the onward motion of the float, the bait is more easily taken, and the
+swims are not passed so rapidly.
+
+
+
+BREAM.
+
+
+_1. Where found at different periods of the year_?
+
+During summer, on the Yare, principally between Langley Dyke and Reedham;
+in winter often found in good quantity in the vicinity of Thorpe Broad
+and about Carrow and Trowse Hythe. On the Bure they appear to congregate
+in the deep waters of the Broads in winter, and make their appearance
+about the end of May and through the summer on the river.
+
+_2. Best periods to fish for them_?
+
+July and August.
+
+_3. What time of day at different seasons_?
+
+Good catches of bream are often had in early morning. I have, on the
+other hand, had capital sport by moonlight.
+
+For further notes, see answer to same question on "Roach."
+
+_4. What depth of water_?
+
+The deepest waters and quietest eddies are, as a rule, the best; but I
+have caught large quantities of fine bream at Wroxham, on the Bure, in
+not more than four feet and a half of water.
+
+_5. How affected by the tide_?
+
+Generally speaking, the most fish are taken from about half an hour
+before high water to half an hour after. For further notes, see "Roach."
+
+_6. What ground-bait_?
+
+Boiled maize, boiled barley grains, barley meal made up into balls,
+chopped worms, boiled rice. This latter and grains I have found very
+killing on the Bure.
+
+_7. Are places ever baited beforehand_?
+
+Mostly overnight, where there is a fair opportunity of doing so. This
+mode is very telling on Broads and other still waters.
+
+_8. What baits are most successful_?
+
+For large fish at Cantley, Reedham, Somerleyton, and other deep swift
+waters, ledger fishing, with the tail end of a lobworm on the hook, is a
+capital bait. Generally speaking, however, I have found "brandlings" the
+most killing, and have found a brandling with a gentle placed on the
+point of the hook will sometimes be taken readily when no other bait
+would be touched. Red paste is often very killing on the Bure.
+
+_9. What kind of rod_?
+
+Strong and stiff cane or hickory, 15 to 18 feet long, with a good stout
+top joint, on the Yare. Shorter will do on the Bure.
+
+_10. Number of hook_?
+
+The finest catch I ever had was with No. 12 hooks. This was, however, in
+comparatively shallow water. Should say that No. 7 or 8 would be very
+good sizes for bream fishing generally.
+
+_11. Is running tackle advisable_?
+
+See "Roach."
+
+_12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of line_?
+
+See "Roach."
+
+_13. What kind of float_?
+
+See "Roach."
+
+_14. Is line heavily shotted_?
+
+In a similar way to that recommended for roach, but having the bulk of
+shot placed nearer the hook, it being necessary that the bait should
+"drag" the bottom.
+
+_15. Is float best attached by lower end only_?
+
+As the bream bites more slowly and certain than the roach, this is quite
+immaterial. I prefer float attached top and bottom.
+
+_16. Do you strike at first dip_?
+
+A bream bite affects the float with a slight bobbing motion for a few
+seconds, he then runs off with it, and slides it down slantingly; strike
+as he runs off with the bait or the float is about to disappear, and you
+are sure of him.
+
+_17_. _Are the fish much affected by change of wind, rain, thick water,
+etc., and is there any rule on this head_?
+
+Bream are rarely taken in any quantity when the waters are very clear.
+See "Roach."
+
+_18_. _Is legering successfully practised for large bream, and what is
+the best modus operandi_?
+
+In such rapid waters as those at Reedham, Somerleyton, etc.--no other
+mode of fishing for bream can be practised with any success worth
+naming--ledgers for attaching to line may be purchased at any tackle shop
+at 1s. each, and the _modus operandi_ is very simple, and by no means
+scientific. The rod requires to be very strong and of fair length, and
+three or four rods may be used from one boat at the same time.
+
+_19. Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or loud talking
+frightens the fish?_
+
+Bream are very sensitive to noise, especially knocking in the boat, which
+invariably sends them off for an indefinite period, and should therefore
+be most carefully avoided.
+
+_20. Name some of the best catches you have made or known of_.
+
+About ten years ago, had, in company with a friend, a catch of 17 stone
+in one day on Wroxham Broad, and with only one rod each. Have heard of
+many catches from time to time of from 4 to 10 or 12 stone, but am unable
+now to give names or dates.
+
+_21. What is the reason of the non-success of strange anglers which is
+so noticeable_?
+
+See "Roach."
+
+N.B. In fishing for bream, the bait should always drag on the bottom.
+
+
+
+
+YACHTING.
+
+
+It will have been gathered from the foregoing pages that the Rivers and
+Broads of Norfolk and Suffolk present exceptional facilities for
+small-boat sailing and smooth-water yachting, better, perhaps, than any
+other part of England. There are two yachting clubs, the Norfolk and
+Suffolk Yacht Club and the Yare Sailing Club, the latter a very
+flourishing institution, furnishing four or five regattas in the year for
+small 4-ton yachts and open boats.
+
+There are numbers of suitable yachts for hire, but, owing to the frequent
+changes of ownership, it is not practicable to give a list of those who
+have boats for hire, which would be of any use. Enquiry at the inns at
+Oulton, and advertisements in the Yarmouth and Norwich papers will
+generally elicit suitable answers. Bullen, of Oulton, is a likely man to
+have a yacht to let. Open sailing-boats with awnings to sleep under, and
+small cabin yachts of four to ten tons, can be obtained of Loynes,
+Wroxham; and comfortable craft they are. The awnings of the small boats
+are waterproof, and most ingeniously constructed, and the boats can be
+rowed or sailed anywhere. Loynes may be trusted to provide everything
+that is necessary for comfort, and his yachts and boats are largely
+patronized. They are all rigged Una fashion, with one sail, and are very
+easily managed. Canoes and rowing boats are in plenty at the riverside,
+at Norwich, Yarmouth, and Oulton.
+
+As before stated, the goods traffic on the river is carried on by means
+of sailing craft of from 20 to 70 tons burthen, called wherries. These
+are long, shallow, graceful vessels, with an enormous mast, supporting
+one enormous sail. The sail is spread by a long gaff, but there is no
+boom. There is only one halyard, and the sail is hoisted by means of a
+winch at the foot of the mast. There is no rigging to the mast except
+the forestay, which is mainly of use for lowering the mast, the latter
+being balanced on the tabernacle by a ton and a half of lead on its heel,
+so that it is raised as easily as it is lowered. These wherries sail
+very fast, very close to the wind, and are often managed by one man.
+Yachts built on the wherry plan are very comfortable craft, and easily
+managed.
+
+Wherries are frequently hired by private parties, the hatches are raised
+a plank or two higher to give greater head-room, the clean-swept hold is
+divided into several rooms, and a capital floating house is extemporized.
+
+There is now quite a fleet of permanently-fitted pleasure wherries on the
+rivers, which have ample accommodation for a party or family, and are to
+be hired at from 8 to 15 guineas a week.
+
+A good way of seeing the rivers, if you have no boat, is to give a
+wherryman a small sum to take you with him when he makes a passage.
+There are always numbers of wherries leaving Norwich and Yarmouth, and if
+you hail the one you fancy, you will be readily taken on board. Thus you
+might sail from Norwich to Yarmouth one day, up to Wroxham the next, back
+to Yarmouth and up to Beccles, at an expenditure of half-a-crown a day
+and refreshments. I am sure that visitors to either Yarmouth or
+Lowestoft will do well to avail themselves of this suggestion.
+
+The navigation is controlled by Acts of Parliament, but pleasure yachts
+are exempt from tolls, except, of course, at locks and Haddiscoe lift
+bridge.
+
+The rule of the road is very strictly adhered to by the wherries and
+local yachts, and necessarily so; but it is a point of honour not to
+harass business wherries if it can be avoided, as these are sailed for a
+livelihood, while yachtsmen sail for pleasure. Therefore, if there is a
+doubt, give the wherry the benefit of it.
+
+It is also a point of prudence not to cross a wherry's bows too closely,
+as they would soon smash up a yacht. If you are civil to a wherryman he
+will be most civil to you, and don't slang him if he doesn't at once give
+way for you to pass him.
+
+The following racing regulations of the Yacht Clubs simply epitomise the
+custom and practice on the rivers, and must be adhered to:
+
+"That if two yachts be standing for the shore of any river or broad, and
+the yacht to leeward be likely to run aground or foul any bottom or bank,
+or not be able to stay without the windward yacht running foul of her,
+the windward yacht must be put about upon being hailed by the member of
+the Club who may be in charge of the leeward yacht; the yacht to leeward
+must also go about at the same time as the yacht she hails.
+
+"That in sailing to windward the yacht on the port tack must give way to
+the yacht on the starboard tack, and in case of collision, the owner of
+the vessel on the port tack shall be liable to pay all damages that may
+occur, and forfeit all claim to the prize.
+
+"That any yacht bearing away or altering her course to windward or
+leeward, provided there is no obstruction to prevent her keeping her
+course, thereby compelling another vessel to go out of her course, shall
+forfeit all claim to the prize. In running before the wind, the side the
+leading vessel carries her main boom is to be considered the lee side.
+
+"A yacht overhauling another may pass to windward or leeward; and when
+near the shore or shallow water, or when rounding any mark, flag, or
+buoy, _if the bowsprit of the yacht astern overlap any portion of the
+hull of the yacht ahead_, the latter must immediately give way and allow
+the former to pass between her and such shore, shallow water, mark, flag,
+or buoy; and should any yacht not give way or compel another to touch the
+ground, or to foul any mark, flag, or buoy, the yacht so compelling her
+shall forfeit all claim to the prize, her owner shall pay all damage that
+may occur, and the yacht so compelled to touch such mark, flag, or buoy
+shall not in this case suffer any penalty for such contact.
+
+"It is an established rule, and should be most strictly attended to by
+all yachtsmen, that where two vessels have to cross each other on
+opposite tacks, the one on the starboard tack must invariably keep her
+wind, and the one on the port tack must keep away and pass to leeward, or
+tack short when the smallest doubt exists of her not being able to
+weather the other. All expenses of damage incurred by vessels on
+opposite tacks running on board each other, fall upon the one on the port
+tack; but where the one on the starboard tack has kept away with the
+intention of passing to leeward, and they have come in contact, the
+expenses of damage fall upon her on the starboard tack, because by her
+keeping away she may have prevented the other passing to leeward. When a
+vessel on the starboard tack sees another attempting to weather her, when
+it does not seem possible, rather than keep away, she should put her helm
+down, for the less way vessels have when they come in contact, the less
+damage they will sustain. Should both vessels put their helms up and run
+on board each other, the most fatal consequences may arise, and therefore
+nothing should induce the vessel on the starboard tack to keep away. All
+vessels going free must give way to those on a wind."
+
+
+
+
+SHOOTING AND SKATING.
+
+
+This district is well worth a visit in the winter time, for the wild-fowl
+shooting on the tidal portions of the rivers is free (of course you must
+not trespass on the marshes for shooting purposes, as the shooting along
+them is strictly preserved). The usual plan is to row along the river
+while your dogs work through the reeds on the bank inside the river wall,
+or embankment, which generally runs parallel with the rivers on each
+side. Flight shooting is also successfully pursued, but of course you
+must obtain information as to the best spots in the line of flight.
+Oulton Broad is free, but is much shot over. Breydon Water is a capital
+fowling-ground in hard winters. It is the "happy hunting ground" of
+Yarmouth gunners. An easily managed sailing-boat of light draught is
+useful for this kind of work.
+
+Winter time on the Broads is very enjoyable. Being so shallow, the
+Broads are soon frozen, and the skating is then simply superb. Fancy
+Hickling, a lake of 400 acres, safe all over, with the ice as clear and
+hard as glass, _and plenty of "elbow-room_" for ice-boats as well as
+skaters.
+
+It would be worth while for skating parties to come down for a few days
+at a time while the frosts last, instead of struggling amid the crowds
+which beset London waters.
+
+
+
+
+FAUNA OF THE BROADS.
+
+
+I cannot do more than cursorily mention the abundant life which teems
+amid the Broads. I would refer the reader, for a full account of the
+life of the Broads thirty years ago and now, to that charming book,
+worthy to be ranked with "The Complete Angler," and "The Natural History
+of Selborne," "Observations on the Fauna of Norfolk, and more
+particularly on the District of the Broads," by the Rev. Richard Lubbock,
+M.A., a new edition of which, with suitable notes by Mr. Thomas
+Southwell, has lately been issued by Messrs. Jarrold and Sons, London and
+Norwich. This book, together with Stevenson's "Birds of Norfolk," are
+necessary companions to the ornithologist on the Broads. For a fuller
+general descriptive account of the district, I may also refer the reader
+to my own larger book, "Norfolk Broads and Rivers," published by
+Blackwood.
+
+Of course, water-fowl predominate. The heron, the great-crested grebe,
+the coot and water-hen are constantly to be seen. Dabchicks abound in
+places. I have seen a score together in some open water, at Surlingham,
+during a frost. Kingfishers are seen occasionally; water-ouzels never in
+the navigable waters. Wild ducks, widgeon, teal, and other ducks, gulls,
+terns, and waders of many species, hawks, kestrels, marsh harriers, and
+hen harriers are occasionally met with, particularly about Hickling.
+Owls, reed wrens, reed buntings, and bearded tits (I know a colony of the
+latter), and other birds occur to me as I write, but detailed lists of
+the Norfolk species will be found in the "Transactions of the Norfolk and
+Norwich Naturalists' Society" of past years. It is sufficient to say
+that not only in the department of ornithology, but of entomology and
+botany, the specialist will find abundant work. During the days and
+nights I have spent in the more secluded parts of the waters, and
+particularly in the very early hours after daybreak, I have watched the
+habits of certain rare species, and discovered their haunts, which I
+would not reveal for anything, for to do so would be to expose them to
+the ravages of collectors. I am not a collector myself, nor have I the
+remotest pretension to science, but I am an enthusiastic student of what
+I may call the "home-life" of birds and animals. Therefore I cannot give
+accurate scientific information, in the shape of lists of Broad species
+without borrowing from the labours of others, and the clothing the dry
+bones with flesh would require more space than a guide-book will allow.
+But let a man lie in a boat, amid the reeds, for an hour of the silvery
+dawn, and watch a pair of great-crested grebes, feeding their young ones
+with small fish, and teaching them to dive and catch fish also, all so
+close that you might at times touch the birds with a fishing-rod, and he
+will partly understand what to me is the charm of Natural History. And
+for the romance of it there is no place like the reed-surrounded Broad
+and its marshy borders.
+
+
+
+
+Footnotes.
+
+
+{29} This bridge was the scene of a most disastrous railway collision,
+in September, 1874, when two trains met, and an appalling loss of life
+resulted, 25 persons being killed, and 60 or 70 injured.
+
+{70} [Note. This is left as first written, but it is necessary now to
+say that since the death of Mr. Chamberlin, the owners of the Broad have
+obtained a decision in the Superior Courts that the public have no right
+to fish on Wroxham Broad, and although the navigation question has not
+been raised, the owners claim the Broad to be private property. At the
+same time they courteously disclaim any intention of closing the Broad to
+the reasonable enjoyment of the public. Sailing on the Broad is freely
+permitted, but yachts are not allowed to moor there at night, on account,
+it is said, of the unavoidable refuse floating against the private
+pleasure grounds of the owners. Persons also are not allowed to land.
+It is to be hoped that the good behaviour of the public will remove all
+idea of closing the Broad to the public, which would be nothing short of
+a calamity. The regattas on this Broad which used to be such sources of
+amusement, have been quite discontinued, partly on account of the
+difficulty in getting the present racing craft up the North River, and
+partly through the reluctance of yacht owners to ask the favour of
+sailing where they formerly supposed they had a right.]
+
+{91} Sometimes called Wannick, or Wandyke, said to be a corruption of
+Swandyke.
+
+{160} Stone = 14 lbs.
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HANDBOOK TO THE RIVERS AND
+BROADS OF NORFOLK & SUFFOLK***
+
+
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