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diff --git a/35936-h/35936-h.htm b/35936-h/35936-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4928a6d --- /dev/null +++ b/35936-h/35936-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2682 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + body {margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + p {margin-top: .75em; text-indent: 1.5em; text-align: justify; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .title {font-size:2.0em; font-weight:bolder; text-align: center;} + .caption1 {font-size:1.5em; font-weight:bolder; text-align: center;} + .caption2 {font-size:1.25em; font-weight:bolder; text-align: center;} + .caption3 {font-size:1.05em; font-weight:bolder; text-align: center;} + .caption4 {font-size:0.75em; font-weight:bolder; text-align: center;} + .hr0 {height: 1px; width: 100%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; clear: both; color:#000000;} + .hr1 {height: 6px; width: 100%; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; + clear: both; color:#000000; background-color:#000000;} + .hr2 {height: 1px; width: 100%; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; + clear: both; color:#000000; background-color:#000000;} + + table {padding:2px; text-align: left; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + .tocch {text-align: left; vertical-align: top;} + .tocpg {text-align: right; vertical-align: bottom;} + .data1 {border-width:1px;border-style:solid;border-color:#000000;} + .data2 {border-width:3px;border-style:solid;border-color:#000000;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; text-indent: 0; font-weight: normal; + color: gray; font-size: 0.7em; text-align: right;} + + .refs {text-align:left; text-indent:-3em; padding-left:3em; margin-bottom: 4px;} + .refs1 {text-align:left; text-indent:-3em; padding-left:6em; margin-bottom: 4px;} + .center {text-align: center;} + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center; } + .text_rt {text-align:right;} + .smcaps {font-variant: small-caps;} + .smaller {font-size:0.85em;} + .typos {text-decoration:none;color:#004000;} + .tech_notes {border:solid #000 1px; background-color:#d0d0d0; padding: 7px;} + .wsnb {white-space:nowrap;} + + .footnotes {border: solid black 1px; background-color: #EEE; padding: 0 1em 0 1em; + margin-left: 5%; margin-right:5%;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: text-top; font-size: .75em; text-decoration: none;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: April 22, 2011 [EBook #35936] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO *** + + + + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Tom Cosmas and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + + +<div class="center"> +<img src="images/coverpage.png" width="447" height="700" alt="coverpage" title="coverpage" /> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg_i]</a></span> +<div class="center"> +<div class="title">Mesa Verde</div> +<div class="caption3">[COLORADO]</div> +<div class="caption2">National Park</div> +<p> </p> + +<hr class="hr0" /> +<p> </p> + +United States Department of the Interior<br /> +<i>Harold L. Ickes, Secretary</i><br /> +<p> </p> + +NATIONAL PARK SERVICE<br /> +<i>Arno B. Cammerer, Director</i><br /> +<p> </p> + +<img src="images/doi_logo.png" width="136" height="142" border="0" alt="DOI Logo" title="DOI Logo"/> + +<p> </p> + +<hr class="hr0" /> +<p> </p> + +UNITED STATES<br /> +GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE<br /> +WASHINGTON: 1937<br /> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg_ii]</a></span> +<table width="100%" class="data2" summary="table frame"> +<tr><td> +<table width="100%" class="data1" summary="Historical Events Listing"> +<tr><td colspan=2 class="center"><div class="caption2">Events</div> <div class="caption3">of Historical Importance</div></td></tr> +<tr><td width="15%" class="center">1st century<a name="FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1">[1]</a><br />B.C. or<br />A.D.</td><td>The earliest occupation of Cliff Palace cave was probably +before, or immediately following, the beginning of the +Christian era. These earliest occupants, known to +scientists as Basket Makers, were the first agricultural +Indians of the Southwest.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">4th to<br />7th<a href="#Footnote_1">[1]</a> centuries<br />A.D. </td><td>By the beginning of the fourth century A.D., the early +agriculturists were developing the art of pottery +making. Later, their semisubterranean homes were +spread widely over the Mesa Verde.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">7th to<br />10th<a href="#Footnote_1">[1]</a><br />centuries<br /> A.D.<br /></td><td>During the three or four centuries preceding 1000 A.D., +the Pueblo Culture on Mesa Verde was developing from +modest beginnings toward its classical stage, which +culminated in the building of the great cliff dwelling.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1066</td><td>Earliest date established for large Mesa Verde cliff +dwellings (Beam section from Mug House.)</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1073-1273</td><td>Construction of Cliff Palace</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1276</td><td>Beginning of 24-year drought, an important factor in +forcing the cliff dwellers from the Mesa Verde.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1776</td><td>Expedition of Padre Silvestre Velez de Escalante to +southwestern Colorado. Party camped on the Mancos River|| +near the base of the Mesa Verde.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1859</td><td>Ascent of the north escarpment of Mesa Verde by Capt. +J. N. Macomb, of the United States Army, and members +of his party of geologists</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1874</td><td>Discovery of the ruins in the Mancos Canyon by W. H. +Jackson, United States Geological Survey. Party +harrassed by Ute Indians.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1888</td><td>Discovery of Cliff Palace and other major ruins by +Richard Wetherill and Charlie Mason.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1891</td><td>First organized archeological expedition to Mesa Verde, +under direction of Baron G. Nordenskiöld.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1906</td><td>Mesa Verde National Park created June 29.</td></tr> +<tr><td width="15%" class="center">1907</td><td>Excavation of Spruce Tree House by Dr. J. Walter Fewkes, +of Smithsonian Institution +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg_iii]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1909</td><td>Excavation of Cliff Palace.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1911</td><td>Excavation and repair of Balcony House by Jesse L. +Nusbaum.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1913</td><td>First entrance road completed. First automobile in Spruce|| +Tree Camp. Extension of park boundaries to include +notable ruins and archeological remains.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1914</td><td>Construction of first wagon road from Spruce Tree Camp +to principal cliff dwellings.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1915</td><td>Sun Temple excavated by Dr. Fewkes.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1916</td><td>Far View House excavated by Dr. Fewkes.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1917</td><td>First Government-constructed trails to Spring House and +Soda Canyon.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1918</td><td>First camp accommodations established at Spruce Tree +Camp.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1919</td><td>Square Tower House excavated</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1921</td><td>Establishment of superintendent's office and home at park +headquarters.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1925</td><td>First unit of park museum constructed by donated funds.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1926</td><td>Excavation in Step House Cave and discovery of its occupation +by Basket Maker III people more than 3 centuries +in advance of cliff dweller occupation.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1928</td><td>Exclusive jurisdiction of park tendered to the United +States and accepted by act of Congress April 25.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1934</td><td>Completion of deep water well <a name="feet"></a><a href="#typos"><span class="typos">(4,192 feet).</span></a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">1936</td><td>Addition to park museum completed.</td></tr> +</table> +</td></tr> +</table> +<br /> +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Approximate dating. Exact dating by the +methods of tree-ring chronology is yet to be accomplished.</p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg_iv]</a></span> +<div class="caption2">RULES AND REGULATIONS</div> + +<div class="caption3">● Briefed ●</div> + +<p>A complete copy of the rules and regulations for governing the +park may be seen at the office of the superintendent.</p> + +<p><b><i>Automobiles.</i></b>—Secure automobile permit, fee $1 per car. Speed limit 35 miles per +hour on entrance highway, 20 miles per hour in headquarters area and on ruin roads. +Drive carefully; free wheeling is prohibited within the park.</p> + +<p><b><i>Fires.</i></b>—Confine fires to designated places. Extinguish completely before leaving camp, +even for temporary absences. Do not guess your fire is out—KNOW IT.</p> + +<p><b><i>Firewood.</i></b>—Use only the wood that is stacked and marked "firewood" near your campsite. +By all means do not use your ax on any standing tree or strip bark from the junipers.</p> + +<p><b><i>Grounds.</i></b>—Burn all combustible rubbish before leaving your camp. Do not throw +papers, cans, or other refuse on the ground or over the canyon rim. Use the incinerators +which are placed for this purpose.</p> + +<p><b><i>Hiking.</i></b>—Do not venture away from the headquarters area unless accompanied by a +guide or after first having secured permission from a duly authorized park officer.</p> + +<p><b><i>Hunting.</i></b>—Hunting is prohibited within the park. This area is a sanctuary for all +wildlife.</p> + +<p><b><i>Noise.</i></b>—Be quiet in camp after others have gone to bed. Many people come here for +rest.</p> + +<p><b><i>Park Rangers.</i></b>—The rangers are here to help and advise you as well as to enforce +regulations. When in doubt, ask a ranger.</p> + +<p><b><i>Ruins and Structures.</i></b>—Do not mark, disturb, or injure in any way the ruins or any of +the buildings, signs, or other properties within the park.</p> + +<p><b><i>Trees, Flowers, and Animals.</i></b>—Do not carve initials upon or pull the bark from any +logs or trees. Flowers may not be picked unless written permission is obtained from the +superintendent or park naturalist. Do not harm or frighten any of the wild animals or +birds within the park. We wish to protect them for your enjoyment.</p> + +<p><a name="visitors"></a><b><i><a href="#typos"><span class="typos">Visitors.</span></a></i></b>—Register and secure permit at the park entrance. Between travel seasons, +registration and permit are arranged for at park headquarters.</p> + +<a name="TOC"> </a> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg_v]</a></span> + +<table width="100%" class="data2" summary="table frame"> +<tr><td> +<table width="100%" class="data1" summary="Contents"> +<tr><td> +<div class="caption2">Contents</div> +<div class="text_rt">Page</div> + +<table width="100%" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#the_ruins">The Ruins</a></td><td class="tocpg">3</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#sp_tr_hs">Spruce Tree House</a></td><td class="tocpg">4</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#cliff_pal">Cliff Palace</a></td><td class="tocpg">8</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#bal_hs">Balcony House</a></td><td class="tocpg">11</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#sq_tw_hs">Square Tower House</a></td><td class="tocpg">12</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#oak_tr_hs">Oak Tree House</a></td><td class="tocpg">15</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#sun_st_hs">Sun Set House</a></td><td class="tocpg">15</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#sun_tmpl">Sun Temple</a></td><td class="tocpg">15</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#nw_fr_hs">New Fire-House Group</a></td><td class="tocpg">19</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#ced_tr_hs">Cedar Tree Tower</a></td><td class="tocpg">21</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#far_vw_hs">Far View House, a Mesa Verde Pueblo</a></td><td class="tocpg">21</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#earth_lodge_a">Earth Lodge A</a></td><td class="tocpg">25</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#unex_ru">Unexcavated Ruins</a></td><td class="tocpg">25</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#tree_rngs">Dates for Mesa Verde Ruins Established by Tree-Ring Chronology</a></td><td class="tocpg">26</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#rec_disc">Discoveries of Recent Years</a></td><td class="tocpg">27</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#preh_inh">Prehistoric Inhabitants of the Mesa Verde</a></td><td class="tocpg">28</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#fauna_flora">Fauna and Flora</a></td><td class="tocpg">32</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#get_there">How to Reach the Park</a></td><td class="tocpg">34</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#get_there">By Automobile</a></td><td class="tocpg">34</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#by_rail">By Railroad</a></td><td class="tocpg">34</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#motor_trans">Motor Transportation</a></td><td class="tocpg">35</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#admin">Administration</a></td><td class="tocpg">36</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#educ_serv">Educational Service</a></td><td class="tocpg">37</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#educ_serv">Guided Trips to the Ruins</a></td><td class="tocpg">37</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#educ_serv">Campfire Talks</a></td><td class="tocpg">37</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#museum">Park Museum</a></td><td class="tocpg">37</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"> <a href="#museum">Reference Library</a></td><td class="tocpg">38</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#campgrnds">Free Public Camp Grounds</a></td><td class="tocpg">38</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#hr_hk_trips">Horseback and Hiking Trips</a></td><td class="tocpg">38</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#medical">Hospital and Medical Service</a></td><td class="tocpg">39</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#accm_expns">Accommodations and Expenses</a></td><td class="tocpg">39</td></tr> +<tr><td class="tocch"><a href="#references">References</a></td><td class="tocpg">40</td></tr> +</table> +</td></tr> +</table> +</td></tr> +</table> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg_vi]</a></span></p> +<div class="center"> +<table width=544 summary="frame"> +<tr><td><img src="images/naturalist.png" width="544" height="700" border="0" alt="Photo of Ruins" title="Photo of Ruins"/><br /> +<div class="text_rt"><i>Grant photo.</i></div> +</td></tr> +</table> +</div><br /> +<div class="caption3">COMPETENT RANGER NATURALISTS ACCOMPANY VISITORS TO THE RUINS</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_01" id="Page_01">[Pg_01]</a></span> +<div class="center"> +<hr class="hr1" /> +<hr class="hr2" /> +<p> </p> + +<div class="title">MESA VERDE</div> +<br /> +<div class="caption2"><i>National Park</i></div> + +<hr class="hr0" /> + +<div class="caption4">● SEASON FROM MAY 15 TO OCTOBER 15 ●</div> + +<hr class="hr0" /> +</div> + +<p>The mesa verde, or green mesa, so-called because its juniper and +piñon trees give it a verdant tone, is 15 miles long by 8 miles wide. +Rising abruptly from the valley on the north side, its top slopes +gradually southward to the high cliffs bordering the canyon of the Mancos +River on the south. Into this valley open a number of large high-walled +canyons through which occasionally, in times of heavy rain, raging torrents +of water flow into the Mancos. In the shelter of the caves that have been +eroded in the sides of these canyons are some of the best-preserved cliff +dwellings in America, built many centuries ago by a tribe of peace-loving +Indians who prized the security offered by the almost inaccessible caves. +In order to preserve these cliff dwellings Mesa Verde National Park was +created, but they are not the only attractions in the area. In the winter +the park is closed to travel by deep snow, but in the early spring the blanket +of snow is replaced by a mantle of flowers that change with the seasons, +and to the story of the prehistoric inhabitants is added an absorbing story +of nature that is peculiar to this mesa and canyon country.</p> + +<p><a name="comma" class="typo"></a><a href="#typos"><span class="typos">"The Mesa Verde region",</span></a> writes Arthur Chapman, "has many attractions +besides its ruins. It is a land of weird beauty. The canyons which +seam the mesa, all of which lead toward the distant Mancos River, are, in +many cases, replicas of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. While the +summer days are warm, the nights are cool, and the visitor should bring +plenty of wraps besides the clothing and shoes necessary for the work of +climbing around among the trails. It is a country for active footwork, +just as it was in the days of the cliff dwellers themselves. But when one +has spent a few days among the cedars and piñon pines of the Mesa Verde, +well named Green Table by the Spaniards of early days, he becomes an +enthusiast and will be found among those who return again and again to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_02" id="Page_02">[Pg_02]</a></span> +this most unique of national parks to study its mysteries and its beauties +from all angles."</p> + +<p>The northern edge of the mesa terminates in a precipitous bluff, averaging +2,000 feet above the Montezuma Valley. The general slope of the surface +is to the south, and as the main entrance highway meanders back and forth +in heading each smaller canyon, many times skirting the very brink of the +great northern fault line, tremendous expanses of diversified terrain are +brought into view, first in Colorado and Utah, then in Arizona and New +Mexico.</p> + +<p>A new scenic road approximately 1 mile in length branches from the +main highway at a point 10.2 miles beyond the entrance checking station +and ascends to the crest of Park Point, the highest part of the Mesa Verde +National Park, which attains an elevation of 8,572 feet above sea level.</p> + +<p>From this majestic prominence the great Montezuma Valley, dotted with +artificial lakes and fertile fields, appears as from an airplane, while to the +north are seen the Rico Mountains and the Lone Cone of Colorado, and to +the east, the La Plata Mountains. To the west the La Sals, the Blues, and +Bears Ears, of Utah, dominate the horizon. Some of these landmarks are +more than 115 miles distant. Southward numerous deep canyons, in which +the more important cliff dwellings are found, subdivide the Mesa Verde +into many long, narrow tonguelike mesas. The dark purplish canyon of +the Mancos River is visible in the middle foreground, and beyond, above +the jagged outline of the mesa to the south, the Navajo Reservation, surrounded +by the deep-blue Carrizos of Arizona and the Lukachukai and +Tunichas of New Mexico.</p> + +<p>In the midst of this great mountain-enclosed, sandy plain, which, seen +from the mesa, resembles a vast inland sea surrounded by dark, forbidding +mountains, rises Ship Rock (45 miles distant), a great, jagged shaft of +igneous rock, 1,860 feet high, which appears for all the world like a great +"windjammer" under full sail. Toward evening the illusion is perfect.</p> + +<p>The distance from Park Point to Spruce Tree Camp, the park headquarters, +is 10.5 miles. The entire road from the park entrance to headquarters, +20 miles, is gravel surfaced and oil treated, full double width, +and cars may pass at any point thereon.</p> + +<p>Although there are hundreds of cliff dwellings within the Mesa Verde +National Park, the more important are located in Rock, Long, Wickiup, +Navajo, Spruce, Soda, Moccasin, and tributary canyons. Surface ruins +of a different type are widely distributed over the narrow mesas separating +the numerous canyons. A vast area surrounding the park contains more or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_03" id="Page_03">[Pg_03]</a></span> +less important ruins of these early inhabitants, most important and easiest +of access from the park being the Aztec Ruins and Chaco Canyon National +Monuments, New Mexico; the Yucca House National Monument, Colorado; +and the Hovenweep National Monument, Colorado-Utah.</p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="Road_Map"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<div class="caption3">ROAD MAP OF MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK,<br />SHOWING IMPORTANT RUINS ON +CHAPIN MESA ONLY</div> +<a href="images/road_map_lg.png"><img src="images/road_map.png" width="687" height="700" border="0" alt="Road Map of Mesa Verde NP" title="Road Map of Mesa Verde NP" /></a><br /><br /><span class="smaller">Click on image to view larger sized.</span> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="the_ruins"><br /></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span> +<div class="caption1">THE RUINS</div> + + +<p>Although the Spaniards were in the Mesa Verde region as early as +1765 and the Americans as early as 1859, it was not until 1872 that the +first settlement was made. In that year the Mancos Valley, lying at the +foot of the Mesa Verde, was settled, but because of the fact that the mesa +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_04" id="Page_04">[Pg_04]</a></span> +itself was a stronghold of the warlike Ute Indians, many years passed +before the cliff dwellings were discovered.</p> + +<p>The ruins in the Mancos Canyon were discovered as early as 1874 when +W. H. Jackson, who led a Government party, found there many small +dwellings broken down by the weather. The next year he was followed +by Prof. W. H. Holmes, later chief of the Bureau of American Ethnology, +who drew attention to the remarkable stone towers also found in this region. +Had either of the explorers followed up the side canyons of the Mancos +they would have then discovered ruins which, in the words of Baron +Gustav Nordenskiöld, the talented Swedish explorer, are "so magnificent +that they surpass anything of the kind known in the United States."</p> + +<p>The largest cliff ruin, known as Cliff Palace, was discovered by Richard +Wetherill and Charlie Mason while hunting cattle one December day in +1888. Coming to the edge of a small canyon they first caught sight of a +village under the overhanging cliff on the opposite side, placed like a picture +in its rocky frame. In their enthusiasm they thought it was a palace. +With the same enthusiasm the visitors of today involuntarily express their +pleasure and surprise as they first view this spectacular ruin.</p> + +<p>Later these two men explored this ruin and gave it the name of Cliff +Palace, an unfortunate designation, for it is in no respect a palace, but a +community house, containing more than 200 living rooms, former abodes +of families, and 23 ceremonial rooms or kivas. They also discovered other +community dwellings, one of which was called Spruce Tree House, from a +large spruce tree, since cut down, growing in front of it. This had eight +ceremonial rooms and probably housed 300 inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The findings of these two ruins did not complete the discoveries of +ancient buildings in the Mesa Verde; many other ruins were found by the +Wetherill brothers and other early explorers. They mark the oldest and +most congested region of the park, but the whole number of archeological +sites may reach into the thousands.</p> + +<p>Only a few of the different types of ruins that have already been excavated, +repaired, and made accessible to the visitor are considered herein. This +excavation and repair was the work of the late Dr. J. Walter Fewkes, +formerly chief of the Bureau of American Ethnology, with the exception of +Balcony House, which was done by Jesse L. Nusbaum. Hundreds of sites +await scientific investigation, being accessible now only on foot or horseback.</p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="Spruce_Tree_House"></a> +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_05" id="Page_05">[Pg_05]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/sp_tr_hs.png" width="700" height="452" border="0" alt="Spruce Tree House" title="Spruce Tree House" /><br /><br /> +<div class="caption3">SPRUCE TREE HOUSE, A COMMUNITY DWELLING OF 114 ROOMS</div> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_06" id="Page_06">[Pg_06]</a></span> +<a name="sp_tr_hs"></a> +<p><br /><span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span></p> +<div class="caption2">SPRUCE TREE HOUSE</div> + +<p>Spruce Tree House, located in a large cave just across Spruce Tree +Canyon from the museum, has been made readily accessible by a short +winding trail. This is the only excavated cliff dwelling in the park that +may be visited without going on a conducted tour, and is open to the public +at all times. A ranger is always on duty to protect the ruin from vandalism +and to give information to the visitors.</p> + + +<div class="caption3">GENERAL DESCRIPTION</div> + +<p>The total length of Spruce Tree House is 216 feet, and its greatest width +is 89 feet. During the excavation of the ruin in 1907, Dr. Fewkes counted +8 ceremonial rooms, or kivas, and 114 rooms that had been used for living, +storage, and other purposes. At least 14 seemed to have been storage and +burial rooms so that probably not more than 100 were used as dwellings. +If it is considered that a family occupied each room, the population would +have been large, but it is doubtful if all of the rooms were occupied at one +time. An average of 2 or 3 persons to the room, making a total of not +more than 300 for the entire village, would no doubt be a fair estimate.</p> + +<p>Two hundred feet north of Spruce Tree House the canyon comes to an +abrupt box end. A splendid spring flows from the base of the sandstone +cliff, and it was to this spring that the cliff-dweller women went for water +carrying it back to their homes in their big water jars. At the south end +of the cave a trail, consisting of small toeholds cut in the cliff, led to the +mesa top above. This trail was used by the men as they went to their +mesa-top fields, where they raised corn, beans, and squash, and by the +hunters as they went in search of deer and mountain sheep that lived in +the forests above.</p> + + +<div class="caption3">LIVING ROOMS</div> + +<p>The rooms of Spruce Tree House are divided into two groups by a +court or street running from the front to the back of the cave, at a point +just south of the center of the village. The majority of the rooms are north +of this street, and some of the walls show the finest work in the entire +structure. The stones were well shaped and smoothed; the mud mortar +was carefully worked into the crevices and compressed with thin stone +wedges. Over many of the walls was spread a thin coat of reddish plaster, +often decorated with paintings. These rooms, standing as when they were +constructed 700 years ago, are mute evidence of the cleverness of the masons +who built them.</p> + +<p>Spruce Tree House has more walls that reach the top of the cave than +any other ruin in the park. All through the central part the walls were +three stories high, the top of the cave serving as the roof of the upper rooms. +One-and two-story structures usually required a ceiling of heavy rafters, +running lengthwise of the rooms. These were covered with a crosswise +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_07" id="Page_07">[Pg_07]</a></span> +layer of small poles and withes as a support for an average 3-inch floor of +clay. Very often a small hatchway was left in one corner of the ceiling. +A short ladder leaning in the corner of the lower room gave access to the +room above.</p> + +<p>Very few of the houses were equipped with fire pits. Most of the cooking +was done in the open courts. Small fire pits can be found along the walls +and in the corners of the courts and passageways.</p> + + +<div class="caption3">CEREMONIAL ROOMS OR KIVAS</div> + +<p>Spruce Tree House has eight of the circular, subterranean rooms that +were set aside for ceremonial purposes. Similar rooms are still in use in +the present day Pueblo Indian villages and are known as kivas.</p> + +<p>Usually the kiva roofs have collapsed, but in Square Tower House two +kivas have the original roofs almost intact. Following the plan of these +original roofs, three of the kivas in Spruce Tree House have been reroofed. +Details of construction may be noted by descending the ladder into one of +these restored kivas.</p> + +<p>Kivas in the Mesa Verde are always underground and generally circular +in shape. The average diameter is 12 to 13 feet and the depth is such that +the roof would clear a man's head. At a point about 3 feet above the floor +is a narrow ledge running entirely around the room. This ledge is known +as the banquette and its exact use is unknown. On this ledge were built +six stone buttresses or pilasters, 2 to 3 feet in height, which served as roof +supports. Short beams were placed from pilaster to pilaster around the +room, and additional series of beams were laid to span the angles formed +by the lower series. Normally five or six sets of beams extended this +cribwork almost to the ground level. Horizontal beams were then placed +across the top and the whole structure was covered with bark and earth. +A small square hole in the center of the roof provided an entrance which +also served for a smoke vent.</p> + +<p>On the south side of the kiva the banquette is wider between two of the +pilasters than anywhere else around the room. This deep recess is often +referred to as an altar, although its exact use is not known. Just back of +the wall of this deep recess is a vertical shaft that leads down to meet a +horizontal shaft that opens into the kiva just above the floor. This is the +ventilator shaft. The fire, burning in the small pit in the center of the +room, sent the smoke up through the hole in the roof, and the fresh air was +drawn down through the ventilator shaft. Between the ventilator and the +fire pit a small wall, known as the "deflector", was constructed to keep the +fresh air current from blowing on the fire.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_08" id="Page_08">[Pg_08]</a></span> +Two or three feet from the fire pit, and in a straight line with the ventilator +shaft, the deep recess, the deflector, and the fire pit is a small hole in the +floor of the kiva. This hole is usually about 3 inches in diameter and from +4 to 6 inches deep; its walls and bottom often covered with a smooth layer +of mud. In the present-day kivas this hole is known as the "sipapu", +and is considered to be the symbolic entrance to the underworld. The +kiva was a combination ceremonial, club, and work room for the men. +Even in the present-day villages the women are rarely ever allowed to +enter the kivas because of the fact that the men take almost entire charge +of the religious work. It is believed that each clan had its own kiva. It +may be noted that in almost every case the kiva is surrounded by a group of +living rooms. The members of the clan no doubt lived in these rooms and +the men held their ceremonies in the adjoining kiva. Two of the kivas in +Spruce Tree House have side entrances that lead to nearby rooms. These +rooms may have been the homes of the priests, or dressing rooms for them.</p> + +<div class="caption3">DATE OF OCCUPATION</div> + +<p>Twenty-one of the roof beams in Spruce Tree House have been dated by +tree-ring chronology. These dates show that the houses were constructed +during the years between 1230 A.D. and 1274 A.D. In 1276 A.D. a +24-year period of drought began that caused the cliff dwellers to move to +regions where there was a more permanent supply of water. In those +same regions are the homes of the modern Pueblo Indians and no doubt +some of these people are the descendants of the cliff dwellers.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="cliff_pal"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">CLIFF PALACE</div> + +<p>Cliff Palace lies in an eastern spur of Cliff Canyon under the roof of an +enormous cave that arches 50 to 100 feet above it. The floor of the cave is +elevated about 200 feet above the bottom of the canyon and is just under +the rim of the mesa. The entrance of the cave faces west, toward a great +promontory upon which stands Sun Temple.</p> + +<p>The total length of the cave is over 300 feet and its greatest depth is just +under 100 feet. The vaulted roof is so high that the cave is always light +and airy, offering a perfect home site to the cliff dwellers who were seeking +protection from the elements as well as from their enemies.</p> + +<p>Fortunately, the configuration of the cliffs above the ruin makes it +possible to get a fine bird's-eye view from the rim of the mesa. Views +obtained from the heads of the two trails are most striking and give an +idea of the setting and size of the building before it is entered for closer +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_09" id="Page_09">[Pg_09]</a></span> +inspection. The most spectacular view of Cliff Palace is from Sun Temple, +across the canyon. This is the only spot from which the entire ruin may +be seen.</p> + +<div class="caption3">LIVING ROOMS</div> + +<p>Cliff Palace is the largest known cliff dwelling. Dr. Fewkes, who +excavated the ruin in 1909, placed the number of living rooms at slightly +more than 200. Very few of the walls reached the top of the cave because +of its great height, but many of the structures were as high as two and +three stories. Near the south end of the ruin is the tallest structure, a +four-story tower that reaches the cave roof. Ground space appropriate for +building purposes was at a premium in the cave. To provide for an +increasing population, second-, third-, and even fourth-story rooms were +superimposed on the original single-story structures which predominated +in the initial cliff-dweller occupation of this site.</p> + +<p>When the cliff dwellers started building in the cave they were confronted +with the problem of an uneven floor. The floor of the cave slanted from +the back to the front and was covered with huge, angular boulders that +had fallen from the cave roof. This problem the cliff dweller solved by +erecting terraces and filling in the irregular places. The open spaces +between the boulders were excellent for kivas, as there was not a great deal +of excavation necessary. After the kiva walls were built the extra space +was filled in with trash and dirt. When the flat kiva roof was added a level +court resulted. Around this court the homes were constructed, often on +the rough surfaces of the big boulders. Because of the uneven floor and +the terracing that was necessary, six distinct terrace levels resulted.</p> + +<div class="caption3">KIVAS</div> + +<p>Twenty-two kivas are located in the cave and another, lying about 50 +feet from the western end, and thought to have been used by men living +in the cave, brings the total to 23. Twenty of these conform to the plan +of the typical Mesa Verde kiva, but three seem to be of a different type. +These three, instead of being round, are square with rounded corners. +The banquette is missing as well as the pilasters or roof supports.</p> + +<div class="caption3">STORAGE ROOMS</div> + +<p>Because of the fact that the inhabitants of Cliff Palace were forced to +store enough corn each fall to last until the next harvest a great many +storage rooms were constructed. Any small nook or cranny that was too +small for a home was utilized for that purpose. Far back in the cave a +number were constructed of large, thin sandstone slabs. These slabs were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg_10]</a></span> +placed on end to form small rectangular rooms. When the door slabs +were in place and all of the crevices were well chinked with mud the grain +was safe from the rodents. High up under the roof of the cave, at the +back, was a long narrow shelf that was also utilized for storage space. A +wall was built along the front of the ledge to the cave roof, and the space +back of the wall was divided into 14 small storage rooms. A ladder on +the roof of one of the houses below gave access to the ledge.</p> + +<div class="caption3">PAINTINGS</div> + +<p>In the third floor room of the four-story tower is the finest painting yet +found in the Mesa Verde. The entire inner surface of the four walls was +covered with bright red designs on a white background. The designs are +similar to those found on cliff-dweller pottery. The white color was +obtained by mixing finely ground gypsum with water to form a smooth +paste; the red was obtained by treating hematite, or red ochre, in the same +manner.</p> + +<div class="caption3">THE ROUND TOWER</div> + +<p>The outstanding structure in Cliff Palace is the two-story round tower +that stands just south of the center of the cave. Every stone in this tower +is rounded to conform to the curvature of the walls and the graceful taper +toward the top makes it one of the finest examples of masonry work in the +region. When the early explorers first entered this tower the only object +found was the most beautiful stone ax they ever discovered. Whether +this tower was a home or whether it was constructed for some special +purpose is a matter of conjecture.</p> + +<div class="caption3">POSSIBLE POPULATION</div> + +<p>Because of the fact that Cliff Palace is the largest of all cliff dwellings, +its population is of special interest. A close inspection of the rooms in the +ruin shows that they are smaller, on the average, than the rooms in any +of the other large cliff dwellings. When judged from our modern standards, +it is difficult to imagine more than a couple of people living in each one. +Our modern ideas, however, will not help us in understanding the people +who once lived in Cliff Palace.</p> + +<p>More than anything else the cliff dwellers desired security from their +enemies. Their next desire was safety from the elements. When it is +considered that these were the motivating influences, it can easily be +understood that such minor matters as space and comfort would receive +little consideration. Since the inhabitants were an easy-going, peace-loving +group it can be imagined that crowded living conditions would not be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg_11]</a></span> +objectionable. In addition it must be considered that the rooms were +used principally as sleeping quarters. All activities were carried on in +the open courts and on the terraced roof tops. Even the cooking was done +over open fires outside the houses.</p> + +<p>An average of two to the room would give a population of 400; an average +of three would place 600 in the cave. If every room were occupied at one +time and if the average of two or three to the room is not too high, it would +seem that a total population of 500 would not be too great for Cliff Palace.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="bal_hs"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">BALCONY HOUSE</div> + +<p>Balcony House lies in Soda Canyon about 2½ miles southeast of Spruce +Tree Camp, and is reached by a continuation of the Cliff Palace Road. It +is one of the most picturesque of the accessible ruins in the park and occupies +a better position for defense than most of the other ruins on the mesa. A +few defenders could have repelled a large attacking force. Additional +precautions have been taken at the south end of the ruin for the strengthening +of its defenses, where the only means of reaching it is through a fortified +narrow cleft. The south part of the ledge was walled up to a height of +about 15 feet, the lower part of the wall closing the cleft being pierced by a +narrow tunnel. Through this tunnel a man may creep on hands and knees +from the cliff dwelling to the south part of the ledge, which affords a footing, +with a precipice to the left and the cliff to the right, for about 100 paces. +The ledge here terminates in the perpendicular wall of the canyon. The +ruined walls of a defensive structure, built to cut off approach on this side, +may still be traced.</p> + +<p>At the north end of the ruin the foundation gave the builders considerable +trouble, but the difficulties were skillfully overcome. A supporting wall +was erected on a lower ledge, to form a stable foundation for the outer wall +of the upper rooms, where the higher ledge was too narrow or abrupt for +building purposes.</p> + +<p>South of the rooms fronted by this wall is a small open court, bounded at +the back by a few very regular and well-preserved rooms which rise to the +roof of the cave. The poles supporting the floors of these upper-story +rooms project about 2 feet to provide support for a balcony. Split poles, +laid parallel with the front wall, were covered at right angles with rods of +cedar bast and generously plastered with clay to form the floor of the +balcony, which served as a means of outside communication between the +rooms of the upper story. A low, thick parapet wall built on the edge of +the precipice encloses the canyon side of the northern court. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg_12]</a></span> +The funds for the excavation and repair of Balcony House in 1911 were +largely furnished by the Colorado Cliff Dwellers Society, an +organization founded and directed by Mrs. Gilbert McClurg, of Colorado +Springs, Colo. The original purpose of this society was to stimulate +interest in legislation for the preservation and protection of the +prehistoric remains of the Mesa Verde. This society advanced the +creation of Mesa Verde National Park in 1906.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="sq_tw_hs"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">SQUARE TOWER HOUSE</div> + +<p>Square Tower House Ruin is situated in an eastern spur of Navajo +Canyon, opposite a great bluff called Echo Cliff. An ancient approach +to the ruin from the canyon rim is visible to the south of the +dwelling. Footholes for ascent and descent had been cut in the cliff +by the Indians which enabled them to reach the level on which the ruin +is situated. The footpath now used by visitors parallels the ancient +trail. Along the top of the talus this pathway splits into an upper +and lower branch. The former, hugging the cliff, passes through the +"Eye of the Needle"; the latter is lower down on the talus and is used +by the stouter and older visitors.</p> + +<p>The Square Tower House cave is shallow, its back wall perpendicular, +with roof slightly overhanging. At the extreme eastern end of the ruin the +vertical cliff suddenly turns at right angles, forming an angle in which, high +above the main ruin, there still remain walls of rooms. To these rooms, which +are tucked away just under the canyon rim, with only their front walls visible, +the name "Crow's Nest" is given. Logs, with their ends resting in +notches cut in the rock actually support walls of masonry, as seen in the +angle of this cliff. This is a well-known method of cliff-house construction.</p> + +<p>This ruin measures about 138 feet from its eastern to its western end. +There are no streets or passageways as at Spruce Tree House and Cliff +Palace. The rooms are continuous and compactly constructed, the walls +being united from one end of the cave to the other, excepting for the spaces +above the kivas. The absence of a cave recess to the rear of the ruin is +significant as it allowed the cliff to be used as the back wall of rooms. +Rooms in Square Tower House do not differ radically from those of Spruce +Tree House and other cliff dwellings. They have smaller windows, door +openings, and supports of balconies. The rectangular rooms were constructed +above the ground; the circular rooms were subterranean. The +former were devoted to secular and the latter to ceremonial purposes.</p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption3">THE TOWER</div> + +<p>The tower is, of course, the most conspicuous as well as the most interesting +architectural feature of the ruin, being visible for a long distance as +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg_13]</a></span> +one approaches Square Tower House. Its foundation rests on a large +boulder situated in the eastern section of the cave floor. This tower has +three walls constructed of masonry, the fourth being the perpendicular +rear wall of the cave. The masonry of the tower stands about 35 feet above +the foundation, but the foundation boulder on which it stands increases +its height over 5 feet.</p> + +<p>On a projecting rock on the west side above the tower is the wall of a +small, inaccessible room which may have been used as a lookout or as an +eagle house.</p> + +<p>The lowest story of the tower is entered from plaza B, and on the east +side there are three openings, situated one over another, indicating the +first, second, and third stories, but on the south side of the tower there are +only two doorways. The roof of the lowest room is practically intact, +showing good workmanship, but about half of its floor is destroyed. The +upper walls of the second-story room have the original plaster, reddish +dado below and white above. Although the third and fourth stories are +destitute of floors, they are plastered.</p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption3">KIVAS</div> + +<p>Some of the best preserved circular ceremonial chambers (kivas) in the +Southwest are to be seen in Square Tower House. The majority of the +kivas belong to the pure type, distinguished by mural pilasters supporting +a vaulted roof.</p> + +<p>Kiva A is particularly instructive on account of the good preservation of +its roof. Its greatest diameter is 13 feet 6 inches; or, measuring inside the +banquettes, 11 feet 1 inch. The interior is well plastered with many layers +of brown plaster. The pilasters are six in number, one of which is double. +Two depressions are visible in the smooth floor, in addition to a fireplace +and a sipapu. These suggest ends of a ladder, but no remains of a ladder +were found in the room.</p> + +<p>Kiva B is the largest ceremonial chamber in Square Tower House, +measuring 16 feet 9 inches in diameter over all. This kiva is not only +one of the best preserved, but also one of the most instructive in Square +Tower House, since half of the roof, with the original cribbing, is still in +place, extending completely around the periphery. It has six pilasters +and as many banquettes. Where the plaster had not fallen, it was found +to have several layers.</p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption3">PETROGLYPHS</div> + +<p>The perpendicular cliff back of Square Tower House has several different +forms of incised petroglyphs. From the fact that these usually occur on +the cliff above the kiva roofs, they may be regarded as connected in some +way with a religious symbolism. A few petroglyphs are also found on stones +set in the walls of the rooms.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="Sun_Temple"></a> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg_14]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"> + <img src="images/sun_tmpl.png" width="700" height="447" alt="Sun Temple" title="Sun Temple" /><br /><br /> + <div class="caption3">SUN TEMPLE, A MYSTERIOUS FORM OF RUIN</div> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="oak_tr_hs"></a> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg_15]</a></span></p> +<p><br /><span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span></p> +<div class="caption2">OAK TREE HOUSE</div> + +<p>The ruin formerly called Willow House, but now known as Oak Tree +House, lies on the north side of Fewkes Canyon, in a symmetrical cave and +has an upper and a lower part. The two noteworthy features of Oak Tree +House are the kivas and the remnant of the wall of a circular room made +of sticks plastered with adobe but destitute of stone masonry.</p> + +<p>Oak Tree House has seven kivas and may be called a large cliff dwelling. +One of the kivas has a semicircular ground plan with a rectangular room +on the straight side. There are no pilasters or banquettes in this kiva. The +floor of another kiva was almost wholly occupied by a series of grinding +bins, indicating a secondary use. The excavation work on Oak Tree +House has not yet been completed, but a small collection of specimens at +one end of the ruin shows the nature of the objects thus far found.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="sun_st_hs"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">SUN SET HOUSE</div> + +<p>Looking across Cliff Canyon from Sun Point one can see the fine ruin +called Sun Set House, formerly known as Community House. This ruin, +like many other cliff dwellings, has an upper and a lower house, the former +being relatively larger than is usually the case. Although Sun Set House +is accessible, it has never been excavated.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="sun_tmpl"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">SUN TEMPLE</div> + +<p>The cliff houses considered in the preceding pages are habitations. +There are also specialized buildings on the Mesa Verde which were never +inhabited but were used for other purposes. Two of these presumably were +devoted solely to ceremonial purposes and are known as Sun Temple and +Fire Temple.</p> + +<p>Sun Temple is situated west of Cliff Palace, on the promontory formed +by the confluence of Cliff and Fewkes Canyons. Up to the year 1915 the +site of Sun Temple was a mound of earth and stones, all showing artificial +working or the pecking of primitive stone hammers. This mound had a +circular depression in the middle and its surface was covered with trees +and bushes. No high walls projected above the ground nor was there any +intimation of the size or character of the buried building. It was believed +to be a pueblo or communal habitation. Excavation of this mound brought +into view one of the most unusual buildings in the park.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg_16]</a></span> +Sun Temple is a type of ruin hitherto unknown in the park. The +building excavated shows excellent masonry and is the most mysterious +form yet discovered in a region rich in prehistoric remains. Although at +first there was some doubt as to the use of this building, it was early recognized +that it was not constructed for habitation, and it is now believed +that it was intended for the performance of rites and ceremonies; the first +of its type devoted to religious purposes yet recognized in the Southwest.</p> + +<p>The ruin was purposely constructed on a commanding promontory in +the neighborhood of large inhabited cliff houses. It sets somewhat back +from the edge of the canyon, but near enough to make it clearly visible from +all sides, especially the neighboring mesas. It must have presented an imposing +appearance rising on top of a point high above inaccessible, perpendicular +cliffs. No better place could have been chosen for a religious +building in which the inhabitants of many cliff dwellings could gather and +together perform their great ceremonial dramas.</p> + +<p>The ground plan of the ruin has the form of the letter D. The building +is in two sections, the larger of which, taken separately, is also D-shaped. +This is considered the original building. The addition enlarging it is +regarded as an annex. The south wall, which is straight and includes +both the original building and the annex, is 131.7 feet long. The ruin is +64 feet wide.</p> + +<p>There are about 1,000 feet of walls in the whole building. These walls +average 4 feet in thickness, and are double, enclosing a central core of +rubble and adobe. They are uniformly well made.</p> + +<p>The fine masonry, the decorated stones that occur in it, and the unity of +plan stamp Sun Temple as the highest example of Mesa Verde architecture.</p> + +<p>The walls were constructed of the sandstone of the neighborhood. Many +stone hammers and pecking stones were found in the vicinity.</p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption3">THE SUN SYMBOL</div> + +<p>On the upper surface of a large rock protruding from the base of the +southwest corner of the building a peculiar depression, surrounded by +radiating ridges, was found. To primitive minds, this may have appeared +as a symbol of the sun and, therefore, deemed an object of great significance, +to be protected as a shrine. This natural impression may have prompted +Dr. Fewkes in the naming of this ruin.</p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption3">ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES</div> + +<p>There are three circular rooms in Sun Temple which from their form +may be identified as ceremonial in function, technically called kivas. Two +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg_17]</a></span> +of these, free from other rooms, are situated in the plaza that occupies the +central part of the main building, and one is embedded in rooms of the +so-called "annex." Adjoining the last mentioned, also surrounded by +rooms, is a fourth circular chamber which is not a kiva. This room, found +to be almost completely filled with spalls or broken stones, perhaps originally +served as an elevated tower or lookout.</p> + +<p>The kiva that is situated in the west section of Sun Temple has a ventilator +stack attached to the south side, recalling the typical ventilator of a Mesa +Verde cliff kiva, and there are indications of the same structure in the two +circular chambers in the court. These kivas, however, have no banquettes +or pilasters to support a vaulted roof, and no fragments of roof beams were +found in the excavations made at Sun Temple. East of Sun Temple, where +formerly there was only a mound of stone and earth, there were found the +remains of a low circular structure of undetermined use.</p> + +<p>Most of the peripheral rooms of Sun Temple open into adjoining rooms, +a few into the central court, but none has external openings. Some of +the rooms are without lateral entrances, as if it were intended to enter +them through a hatch in the roof.</p> + +<p>Not only pits indicative of the stone tools by which the stones forming the +masonry of Sun Temple were dressed appear on all the rocks used in its +construction, but likewise many bear incised symbols. Several of these +still remain in the walls of the building; others have been set in cement +near the outer wall of the eastern kiva. It is interesting to record that some +of the stones of which the walls were constructed were probably quarried +on the mesa top not far from the building, but as the surface of the plateau +is now forested, the quarries themselves are hidden in accumulated soil +and are difficult to discover.</p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption3">AGE</div> + +<p>Sun Temple is believed to be among the latest constructed of all the +aboriginal buildings in the park, probably contemporaneous with late +building activities in Balcony House, Spruce Tree House, and Cliff Palace.</p> + +<p>Because of the absence of timbers or roof beams it is impossible to tell +when Sun Temple was begun, how long it took for its construction, or +when it was deserted. There are indications that its walls may never have +been completed, and from the amount of fallen stones there can hardly be +a doubt that when it was abandoned they had been carried up in some +places at least 6 feet above their present level. The top of the wall had been +worn down at any rate 6 feet in the interval between the time it was abandoned +and the date of excavation of the mound. No one can tell the length +of this interval in years.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg_18]</a></span> +We have, however, knowledge of the lapse of time, because the mound +had accumulated enough soil on its surface to support growth of large trees. +Near the summit of the highest wall in the annex there grew a juniper +tree of great antiquity, alive and vigorous when excavation work was +begun. This tree undoubtedly sprouted after the desertion of the building +and grew after a mound had developed from fallen walls. Its roots penetrated +into the adjacent rooms and derived nourishment from the soil filling +them.</p> + +<p>Necessarily, when these roots were cut off the tree was killed. It was then +cut off about a foot above the ground, the stump remaining. A cross +section of this stump was examined by Gordon Parker, supervisor of the +Montezuma National Forest, who found that it had 360 annual rings +without allowing for decayed heartwood which would add a few more +years to its age.</p> + +<p>It is not improbable that this tree began to grow on the top of the Sun +Temple mound shortly after the year 1540, when Coronado first entered +New Mexico. How long an interval elapsed for crumbling walls to form +the mound in which it grew, and how much earlier the foundations of the +ruined walls were laid, no one can tell. A conservative guess of 350 years +for the interval between construction and the time the cedar began to +sprout would carry the antiquity of Sun Temple back to about 1200 A.D.</p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption3">UNITY OF CONSTRUCTION</div> + +<p>The argument that appeals most strongly to many in supporting the +theory that Sun Temple was a ceremonial building is the unity shown in +its construction. A preconceived plan existed in the minds of the builders +before they began work on the main building. Sun Temple was not constructed +haphazardly, nor was its form due to addition of one clan after +another, each adding rooms to a preexisting nucleus. There is no indication +of patching one building to another, so evident at Cliff Palace and other +large cliff dwellings. The construction of the recess in the south wall, +situated exactly, to an inch, midway in its length, shows it was planned +from the beginning.</p> + +<p>We can hardly believe that one clan could have been numerous enough +to construct a house so large and massive. Its walls are too extensive; the +work of dressing the stones too great. The construction of Sun Temple +presumably represents the cooperative efforts of many clans from adjacent +cliff dwellings uniting in a common purpose. Such a united effort represents +a higher state of sociological development than a loosely connected population +of a cliff dwelling.</p> +<p> </p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg_19]</a></span> +<div class="caption3">BUILDERS</div> + +<p>On the theory that this building was erected by people from several +neighboring cliff dwellings for ceremonies held in common, we may suppose +that the builders came daily from their dwellings in Cliff Palace and other +houses and returned at night, after they had finished work, to their homes. +The trails down the sides of the cliffs which the workmen used are still to +be seen. The place was frequented by many people, but there is no evidence +that any one clan dwelt near this mysterious building during its construction.</p> + +<p>The argument that cliff dwellers in the neighborhood built Sun Temple +and that incoming aliens had nothing to do with its construction seems +very strong. The architectural differences between it and Cliff Palace +are not objections, for the architectural form of Sun Temple may be +regarded as a repetition, in the open, of a form of building that developed +in a cliff house; the rounded north wall conforms with the rear of a cave +and the straight south wall reproduces the front of a cliff dwelling. The +recess midway in the south wall of Sun Temple could be likened without +forcing the comparison to a similar recess which occurs at the main entrance +into Cliff Palace.</p> + +<p>Sun Temple was not built by an alien people, but by the cliff dwellers as +a specialized building mainly for religious purposes, and, so far as known, is +the first of its type recognized in the Mesa Verde area.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="nw_fr_hs"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">NEW FIRE-HOUSE GROUP</div> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption3">FIRE TEMPLE</div> + +<p>Fire Temple is one of the most remarkable cliff houses in the park, if +not in the whole Southwest. It is situated in a shallow cave in the north +wall of Fewkes Canyon, near its head, and can readily be seen from the +road along the southwest rim of the canyon. This ruin was formerly called +Painted House, but when it was excavated in May 1920 evidence was +obtained that it was a specialized building and not a habitation. The +facts brought to light point to the theory that it was consecrated to the +fire cult, one of the most ancient forms of worship.</p> + +<p>The ruin is rectangular in form, almost completely filling the whole of +its shallow cave, and the walls of the rooms extend to the roof. A ground +plan shows a central court 50 feet long and about 25 feet broad, flanked +at each end with massive-walled buildings two stories high. The walls of +these rooms are well constructed, plastered red and white within and on +the side turned to the court. The white plaster is adorned with symbolic +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg_20]</a></span> +figures. The beams used in the construction of the ceiling of the lower +room are missing, but the walls show clearly that the structure was formerly +two stories high. No beams were used in the construction of the floors, the +lower story having been filled in with fragments of rocks on which was +plastered a good adobe floor.</p> + +<p>The court or plaza was bounded by a low wall on the south side, the +buildings enclosing the east and west ends, where there was a banquette. +The north side of the court was formed by the solid rocks of the cliff, but +on the lower part a narrow masonry wall had been laid up about head +high, projecting from the cliff a foot and less on the top. The wall was +formerly plastered red below and white above, triangular figures and zigzag +markings recalling symbols of lightning on the line of the junction of the +red and white surfaces.</p> + +<p>In the center of the court on a well-hardened adobe floor there is a +circular walled fire pit containing an abundance of ashes, and on either +side of it are foundations of small rectangular structures. The function of +the rectangular enclosures, lying one on each side of the fire pit, is unknown. +The middle room of the lowest tier of rooms just west of the main court +has a number of painted symbols and zoormorphic figures upon its walls. +These paintings, in red, still remain in a fair state of preservation, and +consist of five symbols, supposedly of fire, and many pictures of mountain +sheep and other animals.</p> + +<p>Just west of Fire Temple there is a group of rooms which were evidently +habitations, since household utensils were found in them. One of these +rooms has in the floor a vertical shaft which opens outside the house walls +like a ventilator. The former use of this structure is unknown. Although the +Fire Temple was not inhabited, there were undoubtedly dwellings nearby.</p> +<p> </p> + + +<div class="caption3">NEW FIRE HOUSE</div> + +<p>A hundred feet east of the Fire Temple there are two low caves, one +above the other. This cliff dwelling is called New Fire House. The +rooms in the lower cave were fitted for habitation, consisting of two, +possibly three, circular ceremonial rooms and a few secular rooms; but +the upper cave is destitute of the former. The large rooms of the upper +house look like granaries for the storage of provisions, although possibly +they also were inhabited. In the rear of the large rooms identified as +granaries was found a small room with a well-preserved human skeleton +accompanied with mortuary pottery. One of these mortuary offerings is a +fine mug made of black and white ware beautifully decorated. In the +rear of the cave were three well-constructed grinding bins, their metates +still in place.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg_21]</a></span> +The upper house is now approached from the lower by foot holes in the +cliff and a ladder. Evidences of a secondary occupation of one of the kivas +in the lower house appear in a wall of crude masonry without mortar, part +of a rectangular room built diagonally across the kiva. The plastering on +the rear walls of the lower house is particularly well preserved. One of +the kivas, has, in place of a deflector and ventilator shaft, a small rectangular +walled enclosure surrounded by a wall, recalling structures on the floor of +the kivas of Sun Temple. The meaning of this departure from the prescribed +form of ventilator is not apparent.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="ced_tr_hs"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">CEDAR TREE TOWER</div> + +<p>Hidden in the timber about one-half mile east of the main entrance +highway, and 1 mile north of Park Headquarters, stands a prehistoric +tower. This ruin has been named Cedar Tree Tower because of the +ancient juniper tree that grows adjacent to the north wall. The excavation +of the tower and the area about its base led to the discovery that although +it appeared to stand alone there were two subterranean rooms connected +with its base. The larger of these rooms is a kiva, typical of the Mesa +Verde cliff dwelling. Communication between kiva and tower was by +means of a subterranean passage. This passage bifurcates, one branch +opening through the tower floor, the other into a small square room. In +the middle of the solid rock floor of the tower a circular hole, or <i>sipapu</i>, +symbolic of the entrance to the underworld, had been drilled.</p> + +<p>The masonry is excellent and the massive character and workmanship +of the walls indicate some important use. No living rooms were found +adjacent to the tower. The walls of the tower are uniformly two feet in +width and they still stand to the height of 12 feet.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="far_vw_hs"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">FAR VIEW HOUSE, A MESA VERDE PUEBLO</div> + +<p>Archeological investigations have shown that the inhabitants of the +Mesa Verde built compact pueblo-style structures on the open mesa land +separating the deep canyons. Lacking natural protection of the caves and +cliffs of the canyons, a closely knit and compact structure was necessary for +defensive purposes. Not having to conform to the irregular contours of +the cave as in the cliff-house type, the structure assumed a roughly rectangular +shape in the open, with the kivas within protected by the adjacent +outside living and storage rooms. The roofed-over kivas formed small +open courts within the higher outside walls. Structurally, there is but +little difference between the cliff house and the pueblo; undoubtedly they +belong to the same culture and period.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg_22]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/far_vw_hs.png" width="700" height="453" border="0" alt="Far View House" title="Far View House" /><br /><br /> +<div class="caption3">A MESA VERDE SURFACE RUIN. FAR VIEW HOUSE</div> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg_23]</a></span> +Four and a half miles north of Spruce Tree Camp the park road passes +near 16 major and many minor mounds. This is the so-called Mummy +Lake group, a misnomer, since the walled depression at the crest of the +slope above the group was never used as a reservoir, also since mummies +are never found where the least dampness occurs. In the spring of the +year water is still conducted to the depression by the drainage ditches which +the early cowmen in the park constructed in their efforts to impound sufficient +water for their stock.</p> + +<p>The first unit of this group to be excavated was named Far View House +because of the wonderful panorama of diversified terrain that is visible in +Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona from the walls of the ruin. At the +beginning of the work, this mound appeared very much as any of the +other adjacent major mounds, no sign of standing wall appearing above +the even contour of the ruin. Heavy growths of sagebrush covered the +whole area. Three months' time was devoted to the excavation in revealing +the rectangular pueblo, 100 by 113 feet in size, now seen. The slow +crumbling of the heavy dirt-covered roofs and the walls, together with +the annual deposit of wind-blown sand from the San Juan country early +each spring, gradually filled the rooms to the level of the standing walls, +after which destructive elements and forces can little change the contour +of any ruin.</p> + +<p>The external features of Far View House are apparent as we approach +its walls; mounting to the top of the highest wall we can best observe the +general plan. This pueblo is rectangular in shape, consisting of concentrated +rooms with a court surrounded by a wall annexed to the south side. +On its southeast corner, a little less than 100 feet away, lies the cemetery +from which have been taken a number of skeletons with their offerings of +food bowls and other objects, such as was the custom of these people to +deposit in the graves of their dead.</p> + +<p>At its highest point on the north wall the pueblo had three stories, but +on the southern side there was but a single story. This building was terraced, +one tier of rooms above another. In the corner of the interior of +the highest room may still be seen the ancient fireplaces and stones for +grinding corn, set in their original positions as used by the former inhabitants. +There are no external windows or passages, except on the south +side where midway in length is a recess in which was placed a ladder in +order to be hidden from view. The inhabitants evidently used the roof +of the lowest terrace for many occupations. A bird's-eye view shows that +all the rooms, now roofless, fall into two groups.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg_24]</a></span> +In the center of this mass of rooms is a kiva 32 feet in diameter, and around +it are three smaller kivas. The size of the large kiva is noteworthy. In +the cliff dwellings the kivas were necessarily small because of the limited +floor space, but in the surface villages, where unlimited space was available, +they were often large. This arrangement of one large kiva and several +small ones is common. It might indicate that each clan had a small +kiva of its own but that in the major ceremonies, when all of the clans worked +together, the large ceremonial room was used. The structural details of +the large kiva are identical with those of the smaller ones. The only +variation is in the size.</p> + +<p>The rooms surrounding these circular ones vary somewhat in form but +are, as a rule, rectangular, the shapes of those near the kivas being triangular +to fill the necessary spaces. The contents of the rectangular +rooms show that they were living rooms. Artifacts were found and indications +of various industries as well as marks of smoke from their fireplaces +appear on the walls. From the nature of this evidence there is no doubt +that Far View House was once inhabited by the people living the same way +as those who used the cliff dwellings.</p> + +<p>The court added to the pueblo on its south side is enclosed by a low wall. +Here were probably performed, in ancient times, the many religious dances +and festivals.</p> + +<p>Far View House is but one of the 16 pueblos in the Mummy Lake group, +and at the period of maximum development could have housed a large +population. To the north and east, where the two branches of Soda +Canyon join, another large village or group has been located, and one can +almost trace the trail across the west fork of Soda Canyon to the neighboring +village and imagine the dusky visitors going from one to the other in prehistoric +times. Each narrow tonguelike mesa of the Mesa Verde has its +ruins of either isolated pueblo structures, or adjacent groups, denoting the +widespread distribution of the mesa pueblo builders.</p> + +<p>Pottery is the best index as to the chronological sequence of the ruins +in the Southwest, and in examining the pottery of some of the mesa-type +pueblos it is found that some contain pottery antedating that of the cliff-house +culture, while others contain similar types. Undoubtedly, they +were simultaneously inhabited, in part at least, and the transitory period +was of long duration; but the period in prehistoric time when they were +built and later deserted has not been determined. We cannot say from +data now at hand when this took place, documentary history affording +no help.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg_25]</a></span> +The aborigines who lived near these ruins when discovered in 1874 were +Utes, a Shoshonean stock who disclaimed all knowledge of the people who +constructed these buildings. They avoided them as uncanny and even +now can only with difficulty be induced to enter them. They have dim +legends of conflicts between the earliest Utes and cliff dwellers. Unfortunately, +however, such legendary evidence is not reliable, as the general +mythology of these people has been much distorted due to foreign contacts +and the passage of time.</p> +<p> </p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption3">OTHER RUINS NEAR FAR VIEW HOUSE</div> + +<p>During the season of 1922 excavation and repair work in the vicinity of +Far View House was carried on simultaneously. Among the ruins excavated +were Pipe Shrine House, One Clan House, Far View Tower, and Megalithic +House.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<a name="earth_lodge_a"></a> +<div class="caption2">EARTH LODGE A</div> + +<p>In 1922 one of the Late Basket Maker pit houses was excavated on the +mesa above Square Tower House. This structure is known as Earth +Lodge A. Although it once had a mud and pole roof almost as high as a +man's head, nothing now remains but the underground part of the house. +None of these pit houses have ever been found that have not been burned, +and only a few pieces of charcoal remain as evidence of the former roof. +The pit is 30 inches deep and 18 feet in diameter. In the center is a fire +pit. In the floor are also four holes, forming a large square, in which the +roof supports once stood. The walls of the pit were formerly plastered +with a thick layer of mud, but only a few patches of this remain. Around +the edge of the room, at floor level, were a number of small storage bins +made of thin stone slabs. No side entrance was located during excavation. +In some of the pit houses evidence has shown that entrance was often +made by means of a ladder through the smokehole in the roof.</p> + +<p>This was a typical home of the Lake Basket Makers who were living in +this region when the Pueblo Indians arrived about 700 A. D. These pit +houses passed out of existence as soon as the masonry wall was perfected.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="unex_ru"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">UNEXCAVATED RUINS</div> + +<p>Of all the ruins in Mesa Verde National Park only 28 have been named +and only 30 excavated. No survey of the unexcavated sites has been +made, and the total number of ruins is unknown. Several hundred cliff +dwellings have been discovered, and new ones will probably be found in +the more remote canyons. The surface pueblos outnumber the cliff +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg_26]</a></span> +dwellings, and a careful search would reveal many that are now hidden by +a thick growth of underbrush. The earth lodges of the Late Basket Makers +are so common that hundreds will be brought to light by careful search. +Dozens of them can be located in a half-hour walk over any of the mesas.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="tree_rngs"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">DATES FOR MESA VERDE RUINS<br />ESTABLISHED BY THE TREE-RING +CHRONOLOGY<span class="fnanchor"><a name="FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2">[2]</a></span></div> + +<p>Dr. A. E. Douglass, director of Steward Observatory, University of +Arizona, established the tree-ring chronology for dating Southwestern +ruins. This chronology is based upon the facts that solar changes affect +our weather and weather in turn the trees of the arid Southwest, as else-where, +and that such affects are recorded in the variation of tree-ring +growth during wet and dry years. Thus the tree-ring record of living +trees has been extended into the past by arranging beams from historic +pueblos in their proper sequence so that the inner rings of one match the +outer rings of its predecessor, and in turn match the rings of the living +trees. After completing the series from living trees and pueblos, of known +dates, the record has been continued through the cross-sections of prehistoric +beams of fir and pine that were chopped with the stone axes. The continuation +of this chronology is only limited by the finding of earlier beams than +those used in the established chronology.</p> + +<p>The National Geographic Society tree-ring expedition took, in all, 49 +beam sections from ruins within Mesa Verde National Park. During 1932 +and 1933 further tree-ring research was carried on in this area and additional +dates have been secured. Presuming that the year of cutting the +timber was the year of actual use in construction, the following dates have +been established for the major cliff dwellings:</p> + +<table width="100%" summary="Occupation Chronology"> +<tr><td>Mug House, A. D. 1066</td><td> </td><td>Long House, A. D. 1204-11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cliff Palace, A. D. 1073-1273</td><td> </td><td>Square Tower House, A. D. 1204-46</td></tr> +<tr><td>Oak Tree House, A. D. 1112-84</td><td> </td><td>Spruce Tree House, A. D. 1230-74</td></tr> +<tr><td>Spring House, A. D. 1115</td><td> </td><td>New Fire House, A. D. 1259</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hemenway House, A. D. 1171</td><td> </td><td>Ruin No. 16, A. D. 1261</td></tr> +<tr><td>Balcony House, A. D. 1190-1272</td><td> </td><td>Buzzard House, A. D. 1273</td></tr> +</table> +<p> </p> + +<p>Since considerable tree-ring material from these ruins remains yet to be +examined, the dates given above are not final. On the basis of present +evidence, Cliff Palace, the largest and most complex cliff house within the +park, shows an occupancy of 200 years.</p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg_27]</a></span> +It is an interesting fact that all of the dates fall just short of the beginning +of the great drought, which the tree-ring chronology shows commenced in +1276 and extended to 1299, a period of 24 years.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> The Secret of the Southwest Solved by Talkative Tree Rings, by A. E. Douglass: +National Geographic Magazine. December 1929.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="rec_disc"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">DISCOVERIES OF RECENT YEARS</div> + +<p>In 1923 Roy Henderson and A. B. Hardin discovered the largest and +finest watchtower that had yet been found. The tower was circular, 25 +feet in height and 11 feet in diameter. Loopholes at various levels commanded +the approach from every exposed quarter.</p> + +<p>During the winter of 1924 the north refuse space of Spruce Tree House +was excavated. Two child burials were found, one partially mummified, +the other skeletal only. With one was found a mug, a ladle, a digging +stick, and two ring baskets that had held food. Several corrugated jars +were found, together with miscellaneous material. A layer of turkey +droppings a foot thick indicated the space had been used as a turkey pen.</p> + +<p>During January and February of 1926, when snow was available as a +water supply, excavations were carried on in Step House Cave, by Superintendent +Jesse L. Nusbaum. In 1891 Nordenskiöld had found many fine +burials in this cave and it had suffered greatly from pothunting. The +cliff dweller refuse at the south end of the cave had not been thoroughly +cleaned out, however, and it was under this layer of trash that the important +discovery was made. Three of the Late Basket Maker pit houses +were found, giving the first evidence that these people had used the caves +before the cliff dwellers. Very few artifacts were found because of the +earlier pothunting. In 1926 also a low, deep cave opposite Fire Temple +was excavated, and a small amount of Basket Maker material found. Most +interesting were two tapered cylinders of crystallized salt that still bore the +imprint of the molder's hands. While bracing a slipping boulder in Cliff +Palace, Fred Jeep found, in 1916, a sandal of the Early Basket Maker +type that indicates a former occupancy of the cave by the first group of +Agricultural Indians in this region.</p> + +<p>In 1927 Bone Awl House was excavated. A series of unusually fine bone +awls was found that suggested the name for the ruin. Much miscellaneous +material was also found. Another small cliff dwelling nearby was cleaned +out. One baby mummy and an adult burial were found, as well as some +pottery and bone and stone tools. This ruin is reached by a spectacular +series of 104 footholds that the cliff dwellers had cut in the almost perpendicular +canyon wall.</p> + +<p>During March of 1928 and the winter of 1929 restricted excavations were +conducted in ruins 11 to 19, inclusive, on the west side of Wetherill Mesa. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg_28]</a></span> +Several burials were found, all in poor condition because of dampness. Outstanding +was an unusual bird pendant of hematite with crystal eyes set into +drilled sockets with piñon gum. Forty-two bowls were reconstructed from +the sherds found.</p> + +<p>In the summer of 1929 Mr. and Mrs. Harold S. Gladwin and associates +of Gila Pueblo, Globe, Ariz., assisted by Deric Nusbaum, conducted an +archeological survey of small-house ruins on Chapin Mesa and in the +canyon heads along the North Rim. The survey covered 250 sites. One +hundred sherds were collected from each site and studied to identify the +pottery types, the sequence of their development, and their relationship to +pottery types of other southwestern archeological areas.</p> + +<p>The forest fire of 1934 revealed many hitherto unknown ruins. Two +splendid watchtowers were found on the west cliff of Rock Canyon. In a +small area at the head of Long Canyon 10 new Early Pueblo ruins were +located and no doubt scores of others will be found upon more careful +search. In the heads of the small canyons many dams and terraces were +noted.</p> + +<p>In the stabilization program that was carried on in 1934-35 a number of +artifacts were found. A certain amount of debris had to be moved in +order that the weakened walls and slipping foundations might be strengthened +and varied finds resulted. Axes, bone awls, sandals, pottery, planting +sticks, and similar articles were most common, but a few burials were also +found.</p> + +<p>In August 1934 the undisturbed skeleton of an old woman was found on +the bare floor of a small ruin just across the canyon from the public campgrounds. +This skeleton, of particular importance because of fusion of the +spinal column, had apparently remained exposed and undisturbed through +more than seven centuries.</p> + +<p>Because of the fact that no detailed, comprehensive survey has ever been +made of the archeological resources of the park, the findings of new ruins, +artifacts, and human remains are more or less regularly reported at the +park museum.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="preh_inh"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">PREHISTORIC INHABITANTS OF THE MESA VERDE</div> + +<p>The so-called "Mesa Verde cliff dwellers" were not the first of the prehistoric +southwestern cultures, nor were they the first human occupants of +the natural caves that abound in the area of the park. Centuries before +the cliff-dweller culture with its complex social organizations, agriculture, +and highly developed arts of masonry, textiles, and ceramics, it is thought +that small groups of primitive Mongoloid hunters crossed from the north-* +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg_29]</a></span> +eastern peninsula of Asia to the western coast of Alaska. The Bering +Strait, with but 60 miles of water travel, offered the safest and easiest route.</p> + +<p>Just when these migrations to the east had their origin and how long +they continued cannot definitely be said, but it is thought the earliest +Mongoloid hunters were in northwestern America about twelve to fifteen +thousand years ago. When Columbus "discovered" America the continent +was inhabited from Alaska to the Strait of Magellan and from the +Pacific to the Atlantic coasts.</p> + +<p>For perhaps several thousand years following the first migrations little +of great significance developed. There undoubtedly was cultural progress, +but it was slow, and in the long perspective of time its evidences are hardly +discernible. With the knowledge and benefits of agriculture, which was +probably developed first in Mexico, hunting gave way to husbandry, +nomadism to sedentary life, and there followed a great period of change and +advancement. The introduction of corn or Indian maize into what is now +the southwestern United States may be called the antecedent condition for +all advanced cultures of the area.</p> + +<p>Evidence has not yet been established that the first of the maize-growing +Indians of the Southwest were permanent occupants of the Mesa Verde. +Nevertheless, in the Cliff Palace cave, well below the horizon or floor level +of the cliff dwellers, archeologists have found a yucca fiber sandal of a +distinctive type which is associated only with the first agricultural civilization. +From this evidence it would be reasonable to assume that the caves +of Mesa Verde at least offered temporary shelter, if not permanent homes, +to the people of this period.</p> + +<p>The earliest culture so far definitely identified as having permanent habitation +on the Mesa Verde is the Basket Maker III or the Second Agricultural +Basket Maker first found in Step House cave on the west side of the +park below the debris of the latter cliff-house occupation. Recent excavations +and archeological surveys furnish conclusive evidence that the second +agricultural people were most numerous in the area now included in this +national park, and they constructed their roughly circular subterranean +rooms not only in the sandy floor of the caves but also in the red soil on the +comparatively level mesas separating the numerous canyons. Late Basket +Maker House A, formerly known as Earth Lodge A, is an example of this +early type of structure. Up to this time excavations have failed to uncover +a single house structure of this type not destroyed by fire.</p> + +<p>These early inhabitants made basketry, excelled in the art of weaving, +and it is believed were the first of the southwestern cultures to invent fired +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg_30]</a></span> +pottery. The course of this invention can be traced from the crude sun-dried +vessel tempered with shredded cedar bark to the properly tempered +and durable fired vessel.</p> + +<p>Then followed a long development in house structure, differing materially +from this earlier type. Horizontal masonry replaced the cruder +attempts of house-wall construction; rectangular or squarish forms replaced +the somewhat circular earlier type; and gradually the single-room structures +were grouped into ever-enlarging units which assumed varying forms +of arrangement as the development progressed. The art of pottery making +improved concurrently with the more complex house structure. This later +period represents the intermediate era of development from the crude Late +Basket Maker dwellings to the remarkable structures of the "Cliff House +Culture."</p> + +<p>During this period of transition new people penetrated the area. The +Basket Makers throughout the course of their development were consistently +a long-headed group. The appearance of an alien group is recorded +through the finding of skeletons with broad or round skulls and a deformed +occiput. These new people, the Pueblos, took over, changed, and adapted +to their own needs the material culture of the earlier inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The Pueblos were not content with the crude buildings and earth lodges +that sufficed as homes during the earlier periods. For their habitations +they shaped stones into regular forms, sometimes ornamenting them with +designs, and laid them in mud mortar, one on another. Their masonry +has resisted the destructive forces of the elements for centuries.</p> + +<p>The arrangement of houses in a cliff dwelling the size of Cliff Palace is +characteristic and is intimately associated with the distribution of the social +divisions of its former inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The population was composed of a number of units, possibly clans, each +of which had its more or less distinct social organization, as indicated in the +arrangement of the rooms. The rooms occupied by a clan were not necessarily +connected, and generally neighboring rooms were distinguished from +one another by their uses. Thus, each clan had its men's room, which is +called the "kiva." Each clan had also a number of rooms, which may be +styled the living rooms, and other enclosures for granaries. The corn was +ground into meal in another room containing the metate set in a stone bin +or trough. Sometimes the rooms had fireplaces, although these were +generally in the plazas or on the housetops. All these different rooms, +taken together, constituted the houses that belonged to one clan.</p> + +<p>The conviction that each kiva denotes a distinct social unit, as a clan or a +family, is supported by a general similarity in the masonry of the kiva walls +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg_31]</a></span> +and that of adjacent houses ascribed to the same clan. From the number of +these rooms it would appear that there were at least 23 social units or clans +in Cliff Palace.</p> + +<p>Apparently there is no uniformity or prearranged plan in the distribution +of the kivas. As religious belief and custom prescribed that these rooms +should be subterranean, the greatest number were placed in front of the +rectangular buildings where it was easiest to construct them. When necessary, +because of limited space or other conditions, kivas were also built far +back in the cave and enclosed by a double wall of masonry, with the walls +being spaced about two and a half to three feet apart. The section between +the walls was then backfilled with earth or rubble to the level of the kiva +roof. In that way the ceremonial structure was artificially made subterranean, +as their beliefs required.</p> + +<p>In addition to their ability as architects and masons, the cliff dwellers +excelled in the art of pottery making and as agriculturists. Their decorated +pottery—a black design on pearly white background—will compare favorably +with pottery of the other cultures of the prehistoric Southwest.</p> + +<p>As their sense of beauty was keen, their art, though primitive, was true; +rarely realistic, generally symbolic. Their decoration of cotton fabrics and +ceramic work might be called beautiful, even when judged by our own +standards. They fashioned axes, spear points, and rude tools of stone; they +wove sandals, and made attractive basketry.</p> + +<p>The staple product of the cliff dwellers was corn; they also planted beans +and squash. This limited selection was perhaps augmented by piñon nuts, +yucca fruit, and other indigenous products found in abundance. Nevertheless, +successful agriculture on the semiarid plateau of the Mesa Verde must +have been dependent upon hard work and diligent efforts. Without running +streams irrigation was impossible and success depended upon the +ability of the farmer to save the crop through the dry period of June and +early July.</p> + +<p>Rain at the right time was the all-important problem, and so confidently +did they believe that they were dependent upon the gods to make the rain +fall and the corn grow that their prayers for rain probably developed into +their most important ceremonies.</p> + +<p>From Dr. A. E. Douglass's tree-ring chronology the earliest date so far +established for the Mesa Verde cliff dwellings is 1066 A.D. and the latest +date 1274 A.D. While it should not be imagined that these are the all-inclusive +dates representing the total time of the cliff-dweller culture, it is +interesting to note that this same tree-ring story tells us that a great drought +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg_32]</a></span> +commenced in 1276 and extended for a 24-year period to 1299. It may +logically be presumed that the prehistoric population was gradually forced +to withdraw from the area as the drought continued and to establish itself +near more favorable sources of water supply.</p> + +<p>The so-called "Aztec ruin", which is situated on the banks of the Animas +River in northwestern New Mexico, substantiates this hypothesis of the +voluntary desertion of the cliff dwellings. In this ruin is found unmistakable +evidence of a secondary occupation which has been definitely identified +as a Mesa Verde settlement.</p> + +<p>It is thought that certain of the present-day Pueblo Indians are descendants, +in part at least, of the cliff dwellers. Many of these Indian towns or +pueblos still survive in the States of New Mexico and Arizona, the least +modified of which are the villages of the Hopi, situated not far from the +Grand Canyon National Park.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="fauna_flora"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">FAUNA AND FLORA</div> + +<p>The fauna and flora of Mesa Verde should be particularly interesting +to visitors. A combination of desert types from the lower arid country +and mountain types, usually associated with regions of greater rainfall, +occur here. The desert types are highly specialized to cope with their +environment, particularly the plant and smaller animal life.</p> + +<p>Rocky Mountain mule deer are perhaps the only big game to be found +abundantly in the park. They are often seen. Their numbers in the park, +however, vary greatly according to the season. It is hoped to reintroduce +the native species of Rocky Mountain bighorn as soon as range sufficient +for the needs of this species has been added to the park. Occasionally a +black bear is reported.</p> + +<p>Cougars, or mountain lions, and bobcats are part of the wildlife of the +park and, strange to say, are occasionally seen in broad daylight. In other +national parks these animals are rarely seen even by rangers. Coyotes and +foxes are not as numerous as they once were on the mesa. As a result of +the reduction of the predators, many of the smaller animals, such as rabbits, +porcupines, and prairie dogs, have greatly increased. Rock and ground +squirrels and the Colorado chipmunk are present in great numbers.</p> + +<p>More than 200 varieties of birds have been recorded. The species range +from the majestic golden eagle, the largest bird, down to a variety of dainty +humming birds.</p> + +<p>Game birds are represented by the dusky grouse. No wild turkeys are +now to be found in the park, although it is believed that they were once +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg_33]</a></span> +here. The cliff dwellers domesticated the turkey, and their bones, feathers, +and droppings are found in all the ruins. At present the reintroduction of +wild turkeys to Mesa Verde is under consideration.</p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/yucca.png" width="700" height="536" border="0" alt="Yucca" title="Yucca" /><br /><br /> +<div class="caption3">A YUCCA PLANT IN FRUIT (YUCCA BACCATA)</div> +</div> +<p> </p> + +<p>Among the interesting animal residents of Mesa Verde are the reptiles. +The lizards are represented by the horned lizard, the western spotted or +earless lizard, the collared lizard, the striped race runner, utas, rock swifts, +and sagebrush swifts. Among the snakes are found the bull snake, the +smooth green snake, the western striped racer, the rock snake, and the +prairie rattlesnake. The latter, the only poisonous species on the Mesa +Verde, lives among the rocks in the lower canyons.</p> + +<p>Mesa Verde receives considerably more rainfall than true desert areas, +and vegetation typical of the upper sonoran or transition zone is moderately +luxuriant. This heavy cover of vegetation accounts for its name, which +means "Green Tableland." The dense forest consists of piñon pine, +juniper, Douglas fir, and western yellow pine. The north-facing slopes +and moist canyons contain quaking aspen and box elders, with willows and +cottonwoods growing along the Mancos River. The heavy covering of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg_34]</a></span> +scrub oak and mountain mahogany over the higher elevations of the park +makes this region a most colorful one during the fall months.</p> + +<p>Among the fruit-bearing shrubs and trees are the service berry, choke +cherry, Oregon grape, and elderberry.</p> + +<p>An abundance of wild flowers, varying in color with the growing season, +include principally the Mariposa lily, Indian paint brush, pentstemon, +lupine, wild sweet pea, and a great variety of the compositae family.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="get_there"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">HOW TO REACH THE PARK</div> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption2">BY AUTOMOBILE</div> + +<p>Mesa Verde National Park may be reached by automobile from Denver, +Colorado Springs, Pueblo, and other Colorado points. Through Pueblo +one road leads to the park by way of Canon City, from where one may look +down into the Royal Gorge, the deepest canyon in the world penetrated +by a railroad and river. This road passes through Salida and on through +Gunnison and Montrose, and then south through Ouray, Silverton, and +Durango. This route passes through some of Colorado's most magnificent +mountain scenery. Another road leads south from Pueblo through Walsenburg, +across La Veta Pass, on through Alamosa, Del Norte, Pagosa Springs, +and Durango, crossing Wolf Creek Pass en route. Both roads lead west +from Durango to Mancos and on into the park.</p> + +<p>Motorists coming from Utah turn southward from Green River or +Thompsons, crossing the Colorado River at Moab, proceeding southward +to Monticello, thence eastward to Cortez, Colo., and the park.</p> + +<p>From Arizona and New Mexico points, Gallup, on the National Old +Trails Road, is easily reached. The auto road leads north from Gallup +through the Navajo Indian Reservation and a corner of the Ute Indian +Reservation. At Shiprock Indian Agency, 98 miles north of Gallup, the +San Juan River is crossed.</p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="by_rail"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">BY RAILROAD</div> + +<p>Mesa Verde National Park is approached by rail both from the north +and from the south: From the north via the Denver & Rio Grande Western +Railroad main transcontinental line through Grand Junction, and branch +lines through Montrose or Durango; from the south via the main transcontinental +line of the Santa Fe Railroad through Gallup, N. Mex.</p> + +<p>The lines of the Denver & Rio Grande Western System traverse some of +the most magnificent scenery of the Rocky Mountain region, a fact which +gives the journey to Mesa Verde zestful travel flavor. Two main-line routes +are provided to the Grand Junction gateway.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg_35]</a></span> +The Royal Gorge Route goes through the Grand Canyon of the Arkansas, +now spanned by an all-steel suspension bridge, 1,053 feet above the tracks +in the Royal Gorge. This route crosses Tennessee Pass (altitude, 10,240 +feet) and follows the Eagle River to its junction with the Colorado River +at Dotsero, thence to Grand Junction.</p> + +<p>Service was inaugurated in June 1934 via the new James Peak Route of +the D. & R. G. W., utilizing the Moffat Tunnel (altitude at apex, 9,239 +feet), 6.2-mile bore which pierces the Continental Divide 50 miles west of +Denver. This route follows the Colorado River from Fraser, high on the +west slope of the continent, through Byers Canyon, Red Gorge, Gore +Canyon, and Red Canyon, thence over the Dotsero Cut-off to Dotsero, +where it joins the Royal Gorge Route. The new line saves 175 miles in +the distance from Denver to Grand Junction.</p> + + +<a name="motor_trans"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">MOTOR TRANSPORTATION</div> + +<p>The Rio Grande Motor Way, Inc., of Grand Junction, Colo., from June +15 to September 15, operates a daily motor service from Grand Junction, +Delta, Montrose, Ouray, Silverton, Durango, and Mancos, Colo., to Spruce +Tree Lodge in Mesa Verde National Park. This motor bus leaves Grand +Junction at 6:45 a.m., via the scenic Chief Ouray Highway, stopping en +route at other places mentioned, crossing beautiful Red Mountain Pass +(altitude, 11,025 feet), arriving at Spruce Tree Lodge at 7 p.m. The stage +leaves the park at 7 a.m., when there are passengers, arriving at Grand +Junction at 5:40 p.m. The round trip fare between Grand Junction and +the park is $18.65.</p> + +<p>Entrance to Mesa Verde from the south through Gallup, N. Mex., via +the Navajo and Southern Ute Indian Reservations, is growing constantly +in convenience and popularity. Hunter Clarkson, Inc., with headquarters +at El Navajo Hotel, in Gallup, operates two-day round trip light sedan +service, leaving Gallup at 8 a.m. and returning to Gallup at 6 p.m. the +second day. This service permits the visiting of ruins in the park, in accordance +with regular schedules, on the afternoon of the first day and on the +morning of the second. The round trip fare per person (360 miles) is $25. +A minimum of two passengers is required. Fare for children, five and under +twelve, is $12.50. Meals and hotel accommodations en route or at the +park are not included. El Navajo Hotel, operated by Fred Harvey, +offers excellent overnight accommodations at Gallup.</p> + +<p>The Cannon Ball Stage operates bus service from Gallup, via Shiprock +and Farmington, to Durango, where arrangements may be made with the +Rio Grande Motor Way, Inc., for transportation to and from the park.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg_36]</a></span> +The Cannon Ball Stage bus leaves Gallup each day at 11:30 a.m., +arriving at Durango at 4:45 p.m. Returning it leaves Durango at 8 a.m. +and arrives at Gallup at 1 p.m. The fare from Gallup to Durango is $6 +one way and $10.80 for the round trip. The round trip fare to the park +from Durango via the Rio Grande Motor Way, Inc., is $7.50.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="admin"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">ADMINISTRATION</div> + +<p>The Mesa Verde National Park is under the exclusive control of the +National Park Service of the Department of the Interior, which is authorized +to make rules and regulations and to establish such service as it may +deem necessary for the care and management of the park and the preservation +from injury or spoliation of the ruins and other remains of prehistoric +man within the limits of the reservation.</p> + +<p>The National Park Service is represented in the actual administration of +the park by a superintendent, who is assisted in the protection and interpretation +of its natural and prehistoric features by a well-trained staff. +The present superintendent is Jesse L. Nusbaum, and his post-office address +is Mesa Verde National Park, Colo.</p> + +<p>The park season extends from May 15 to October 15, complete lodging +and food accommodations and automobile stage service being available +from June 15 to September 15. Informal lodging and meal accommodations +are provided during the remainder of the park season.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="center"> +<img src="images/hq_area.png" width="700" height="407" border="0" alt="Park HQ" title="Park HQ" /><br /><br /> +<div class="caption3">HEADQUARTERS AREA</div> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg_37]</a></span> +Exclusive jurisdiction over the park was ceded to the United States by +act of the Colorado Legislature approved May 2, 1927, and accepted by +Congress by act approved April 25, 1928. There is a United States +Commissioner at park headquarters.</p> + +<p>Telegrams sent prepaid to Mancos, Colo., will be phoned to addressee +at park office. The post-office address for parties within the park is Mesa +Verde National Park, Colo.</p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="educ_serv"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">EDUCATIONAL SERVICE</div> + +<p>Educational service, carefully planned to provide each visitor with an +opportunity to interpret and appreciate the features of the Mesa Verde, is +provided, without charge, by the Government. This service is directed +by the park naturalist, who is assisted by a group of ranger naturalists.</p> + + +<div class="caption2">GUIDED TRIPS TO THE RUINS</div> + +<p>During the season visitors are accompanied from the park museum to +the various ruins by competent ranger naturalists. These men, well +trained in the social and biological sciences, make it their duty to help the +visitor understand the natural and archeological features of the Mesa +Verde. Because of the need of protecting the ruins and the somewhat +devious trails by which they are reached, no one will be allowed to enter +any ruin except Spruce Tree House unless accompanied by a ranger +naturalist.</p> +<p> </p> + + +<div class="caption2">CAMPFIRE TALKS</div> + +<p>Each evening at 8 o'clock informal talks are given at the campfire circle +near park headquarters. The superintendent, the park naturalist, and +members of the educational staff give talks on the archeology of the region. +Visiting scientists, writers, lecturers, and noted travelers often contribute to +the evening's entertainment. After the talks six of the best singers and +dancers among the Navajo Indians employed in the park can usually be +persuaded, by modest voluntary contributions on the part of the visitors, +to give some of their songs and dances.</p> + + +<a name="museum"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption2">PARK MUSEUM</div> + +<p>The park museum houses very important and comprehensive collections +of excavated cliff-dweller and basket maker material, as well as restricted +collections of arts and crafts of modern Indians of the Southwest. These +collections have been assembled through the conduct of excavations within +the park and through loan or gift of materials by park friends or cooperating +institutions. This material is arranged in a definite chronological order. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg_38]</a></span> +By following through from the earliest culture to those of the present time +a clear and concise picture of the former material cultures of the Mesa Verde +and surrounding regions may be obtained.</p> + +<p>One room has been set aside for natural history exhibits exemplifying +the geology, fauna, and flora of this peculiar mesa-canyon country.</p> + + +<div class="caption2">REFERENCE LIBRARY</div> + +<p>A part of the museum is given over to an excellent reference library and +reading room. This library consists of books on archeology and related +natural history subjects pertaining to this interesting region. Visitors +have access to these books on application to the museum assistant who is +in charge. These books may not be removed from the reading room.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="campgrnds"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">FREE PUBLIC CAMPGROUNDS</div> + +<p>The new public campgrounds are located in the piñons and junipers +on the rim of Spruce Canyon only a few hundred feet from Spruce Tree +Lodge and park headquarters. Individual party campsites have been +cleared, and a protecting screen of shrubbery contributes to their privacy. +Each site is provided with a fireplace, a table with seats, and a large level +place for a tent. Good water has been piped to convenient places, and +cut wood is provided without charge. Toilet facilities, showers, and +laundry tubs are also provided. A ranger is detailed for duty in the +campgrounds.</p> + +<p><b><i>Leave your campsite clean when you have finished with it.</i></b></p> + +<p><b><i>Do not drive cars on, or walk over, the shrubbery.</i></b></p> + +<p>The campground facilities at Mesa Verde have been greatly improved +and expanded through the work of the Civilian Conservation Corps.</p> + +<p>Provisions for campers are obtainable at reasonable prices in any of the +nearby towns. Groceries, gas, and oil can also be purchased at Spruce +Tree Lodge.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="hr_hk_trips"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">HORSEBACK AND HIKING TRIPS</div> + +<p>Visitors who view the Mesa Verde from the automobile roads gain but +an inkling of the weird beauty and surprises that this area holds for the +more adventurous. Horseback and hiking trips along the rim rocks and +into the canyons lead to spectacular ruins not seen from any of the roads. +Such great ruins as Spring House, Long House, Kodak House, Jug House, +Mug House, and Step House, as well as all of the ruins in the more remote +canyons, can be reached by trail only. Each turn of the trail reveals +entrancing vistas of rugged canyons, sheer cliffs, great caves, hidden ruins, +distant mountains, tree-covered mesas, and open glades.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg_39]</a></span> +In making these trips it is important that the hiker prepare himself +with proper footwear, as the trails are very precipitous in places.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="medical"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">HOSPITAL AND MEDICAL SERVICE</div> + +<p>There is an excellent hospital at park headquarters where medical and +surgical service is provided to care for all emergency cases. Prices are +regulated by the Secretary of the Interior.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="accm_expns"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">ACCOMMODATIONS AND EXPENSES</div> + +<p>At Spruce Tree Lodge, situated among the piñons and junipers over-looking +Spruce, Spruce Tree, and Navajo Canyons, cottages may be +rented at prices ranging from $1.25 to $2 a person per day and comfortable +floored tents at 50 cents to $1 per day. Meals table d'hote are served at the +following reasonable prices: Breakfast, 50 cents to $1; luncheon, 55 cents to +85 cents; and dinner, 75 cents to $1.15. A la carte service is also available. +Children: No charge under 3; half rates from 3 to 8. The official season +for Spruce Tree Lodge is from June 15 to September 15.</p> + +<p>The company also operates, for visitors who do not care to use their own +cars or are without private transportation, automobile service to various +ruins for $1 each round trip. A special evening trip to Park Point to see +the spectacular sunset from the highest point in the park is $1.50 per person.</p> + +<div class="caption3">OUT-OF-SEASON ACCOMMODATIONS</div> + +<p>From May 15 to June 15 and from September 15 to October 15, cabins +may be rented from the caretaker of Spruce Tree Lodge at the regular +rates. Meals, with breakfast 50 cents, and luncheon and dinner 75 cents, +may be had at the Government dining hall. In nearby towns, less than an +hour's drive from park headquarters, accommodations are also obtainable.</p> + +<div class="caption3">PACK AND SADDLE ACCOMMODATIONS</div> + +<p>Saddle horses, especially trained for mountain work, may be rented +from the Mesa Verde Pack & Saddle Co. For short trips the rental is $1 +for the first hour and 50 cents for each additional hour. For short 1-day +trips for three persons or more the cost is $3.50 each; two persons $4 each; +one person $6. Longer 1-day trips for experienced riders are available +at $2 per person more than the rate for the shorter 1-day trips. All prices +include guide service, and a slicker, canteen, and lunch bag are provided +with each horse. Arrangements should be made the evening before the +trip is taken.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg_40]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/pack_n_sdl.png" width="700" height="533" border="0" alt="Heading Out!" title="Heading Out!" /><br /><br /> +<div class="caption3">A PARTY OFF FOR THE LESS-FREQUENTED TRAILS</div> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption3">PACK TRIPS</div> + +<p>Nonscheduled pack trips to the more remote sections of the park may be +arranged (2 days' notice is required) at prices ranging from $9 a day each +for parties of five or more to $15 a day for one person. This includes a +guide-cook and furnishes each person with one saddle horse, one pack +horse, bed, tent, canteen, slicker, and subsistence for the trip. Three +days is the minimum time for which these trips can be arranged.</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<a name="references"></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a href="#TOC">[TOC]</a></span><br /> +<div class="caption1">REFERENCES<span class="fnanchor"><a name="FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></span></div> +<p> </p> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Chapin, F. H.</span> The Land of the Cliff Dwellers.<a name="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> W. B. Clarke & Co., Boston, Mass. 1892. 187 pages.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Douglass, Dr. Andrew Ellicott.</span> The Secret of the Southwest Solved by the Talkative Tree Rings, in National Geographic Magazine, December 1929.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Faris, John T.</span> Roaming the Rockies. Farrar & Rinehart, Inc., New York. 1930. Illustrated. 333 pages. Mesa Verde on pp. 193-203.</div> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg_41]</a></span> +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Fewkes, J. Walter</span>:</div> + +<div class="refs1">Antiquities of the Mesa Verde National Park: Spruce Tree House.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> (Bureau of American Ethnology Bull. 41, 1909. 57 pages, illustrated.) (Out of print.)</div> + +<div class="refs1">Antiquities of the Mesa Verde National Park: Cliff Palace.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> (Bureau of American Ethnology Bull. 51, 1911. 82 pages, illustrated.) (Out of print.)</div> + +<div class="refs1">Excavation and Repair of Sun Temple, Mesa Verde National Park.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> (Report of the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution. 1916. 32 pages, illustrated.) (Out of print.)</div> + +<div class="refs1">A Prehistoric Mesa Verde Pueblo and Its People.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> (Report of the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution. 1917. 26 pages.) (Out of print.)</div> + +<div class="refs1">Prehistoric Villages, Castles, and Towers of Southwestern Colorado.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> (Bureau of American Ethnology Bull. 70. 1919. 79 pages text, 33 plates.)</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Gillmor, Frances</span>, and <span class="smcaps">Wetherill, Louisa Wade</span>. Traders to the Navahos.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston and New York. 1934. Illustrated, 265 pages. Describes discovery of cliff dwellings by Wetherill brothers.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Holmes, William H.</span> Report on Ancient Ruins in Southwestern Colorado Examined During Summers of 1875 and 1876. (Geological and Geographical Survey of the Territories (Hayden), Tenth Report, 1876, pp. 381-408, illustrated.)</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Ickes, Anna Wilmarth</span>. Mesa Land.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston and New York, 1933. Illustrated. 228 pages. Southwest in general. Mesa Verde, pp. 100-101.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Ingersoll, Ernest</span>. Reprint, first article. Mancos River Ruins, New York Tribune. Nov. 3, 1874; in Indian Notes, vol. 5, no. 2, April 1928, pp. 183-206, Museum of American Indian, Heye Foundation, New York.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Jackson, W. H.</span> The Pioneer Photographer.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> World Book Co., 1929.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Jeffers, Le Roy</span>. The Call of the Mountains. 282 pages, illustrated. Dodd, Mead & Co., 1922. Mesa Verde on pp. 96-111.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Kane, J. F.</span> Picturesque America. 1935. 256 pp., illustrated. Published by Frederick Gumbrecht, Brooklyn, N. Y. Mesa Verde on pp. 121-124.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Kidder, Alfred Vincent</span>:</div> + +<div class="refs1">An introduction to the Study of Southwestern Archaeology.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> 300 pages, illustrated. Yale University Press, 1924. Mesa Verde on pp. 58-68.</div> + +<div class="refs1">Beautiful America—Our National Parks. 1924. 160 pages pictorial views. Beautiful America Publishing Corporation, New York City. Mesa Verde views pp. 58-68.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Mills, Enos A.</span> Your National Parks. 1917. 532 pages, illustrated. Mesa Verde National Park on pp. 161-174; 488-490.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Morris, Ann Axtell</span>. Digging in the Southwest.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Doubleday Doran Co., 1933. Readable account of the trade secrets of a southwestern archeologist.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Nordenskiöld, G.</span> The Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa Verde.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> 1893. 171 pages, illustrated.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Nusbaum, Deric</span>. Deric in Mesa Verde.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> 1926. Illustrated. G. P. Putnam's Sons. Knickerbocker Press.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Rolfe, Mary A.</span> Our National Parks.<a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Book One. A supplementary reader on the national parks for the fifth and sixth grade students. Benj. H. Sanborn & Co. 1927. Illustrated. Mesa Verde on pp. 221-234.</div> + +<div class="refs"><span class="smcaps">Yard, Robert Sterling</span>:</div> + +<div class="refs1">The Top of the Continent. 1917. 244 pages, illustrated. Mesa Verde National Park on pp. 44-62.</div> + +<div class="refs1">The Book of the National Parks. 1926. 444 pages, illustrated. Mesa Verde National Park on pp. 284-304.</div> +<p> </p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> For complete bibliography apply at the park museum or write to the Superintendent, Mesa Verde National Park.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Copies in Mesa Verde Museum Library.</p> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg_42]</a></span> +<div class="center"> + <div class="caption3">WHAT TO DO</div> +</div> + + +<b><i>Things to See on Way from Park Entrance to Headquarters</i></b><br /><br /> + +<div class="refs">3.5 miles—Top of first grade—Mancos Valley and La Plata Mountains.</div> + +<div class="refs">5 miles—Knife Edge Road—Montezuma Valley and Sleeping Ute Mountain.</div> + +<div class="refs">10.5 miles—Scenic road to Park Point, highest elevation within Mesa Verde National Park, 8,572 feet above sea level; 2,200 feet above the Montezuma Valley. Views into four States—Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah.</div> + +<div class="refs">16 miles—Pueblo III ruins on top of mesa—Far View House Ruin, Pipe Shrine House Ruin, Far View Tower Ruin.</div> + +<div class="refs">18.5 miles—Cedar Tree Tower Ruin—road branches off to left.</div> + +<div class="refs">20 miles—Park headquarters. Park ranger will meet visitors' cars and give information.</div> +<p> </p> + +<b><i>Things to Do While on the Mesa Verde</i></b><br /><br /> + +<i><span class="smaller">Motor caravans to ruins—Daily. Use your own car. No charge for ranger service</span></i><br /> + +<div class="refs">8 <span class="wsnb">a. m.</span>—Earth Lodge A, Square Tower House, Little Long House, Sun Point, Fire Temple, Sun Temple. Return 11:15 <span class="wsnb">a. m.</span> Distance 6½ miles.</div> + +<div class="refs">10 <span class="wsnb">a. m.</span>—A shortened trip of morning route to accommodate late comers. Return 11:15 <span class="wsnb">a. m.</span></div> + +<div class="refs">1:30 <span class="wsnb">p. m.</span>—Cliff Palace, Rim Drive, Balcony House. Return 4:15 <span class="wsnb">p. m.</span> Distance 7 miles.</div> + +<div class="refs">3 <span class="wsnb">p. m.</span>—A shortened trip of the 1:30 route to accommodate late comers. Does not go through Cliff Palace but views this ruin from the top of the mesa. Return 4:30 <span class="wsnb">p. m.</span></div> +<br /> + +<i><span class="smaller">Motor caravan to park point—Daily. Use your own car</span></i><br /> + +<div class="refs">6:30 or 7 <span class="wsnb">p. m.</span>—Departure is timed to arrive at Park Point to view colorful sunset. Ranger in charge will discuss the flora, geology, and scenic points. Distance 21 miles.</div> +<br /> + +<i><span class="smaller">Campfire lecture—Daily</span></i><br /> + +<div class="refs">8 <span class="wsnb">p. m.</span>—Campfire circle at park headquarters. Archeological story of the Southwest followed by Ceremonial dances by Navajo Indians at about 9 <span class="wsnb">p. m.</span></div> +<p> </p> + +<b><i>Things to Do—Not on Regular Schedule</i></b><br /><br /> + +<div class="refs">Museum—Open from 8 <span class="wsnb">a. m.</span> to 5:30 <span class="wsnb">p. m.</span> A splendid collection of material from the cliff ruins and other sections of the Southwest.</div> + +<div class="refs">Community building—A display of cut wild flowers. Porch, with comfortable chairs, overlooks Spruce Tree Ruin. Open at all times.</div> + +<div class="refs">Spruce Tree Ruin—Below park headquarters. May be visited at your leisure without guide. Ranger on duty in this ruin for information.</div> + +<div class="refs">Nature trail—The path to Spruce Tree Ruin has been prepared with a series of signs explaining the flora and rock formations.</div> + +<div class="refs">Horseback trips—Splendid trails lead in all directions. Large, unexcavated ruins, magnificent canyons and mesas off the beaten path unfold the charm of this primitive +region. Rates are very reasonable.</div> + +<div class="refs">Hikes—To any section of the park can be arranged for with the park naturalist. If sufficient numbers enroll for such hikes, a naturalist guide will be provided.</div> +<p> </p> + +<b><i>Accommodations</i></b><br /><br /> + +<div class="refs">At park headquarters, 20 miles from entrance. <span class="smcaps">Spruce Tree Lodge</span>—Cabins, tents, +meals, beverages, campers' supplies, and curios. <span class="smcaps">Free Government campground</span>—Firewood +and water furnished.</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg_43]</a></span> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="center"> + <div class="caption3">AREAS ADMINISTERED BY THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE</div><br /> + <a href="images/np-map_lg.png"><img src="images/np-map_sm.png" width="700" height="491" border="0" alt="NPS Locations Map" title="NPS Locations Map" /></a><br /><br /> + <span class="smaller">[Click on map to view larger version.]</span> + <p> </p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="tech_notes"> +<div class="caption2">Transcriber's Notes</div> + + +<p>With the exception of the following items and the placement of several +captions from below to above the illustrations, the text presented here +matches the printed booklet which may include some inconsistancies with +modern usage that were left unchanged:</p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="caption3">A. Footnote Consolidation</div> + +<p>Pages 40-41 - Footnotes moved to the end of Reference +section.</p> + +<a name="typos"></a> +<div class="caption3">B. Typographical Corrections</div> +<div class="notes"> + 1. Page iii - missing period after "<a href="#feet"><span class="typos">(4,192 feet)</span></a>"<br /> + 2. Page iv - missing period after "<a href="#visitors"><span class="typos">Visitors</span></a>"<br /> + 3. Page 2 - comma moved out of quotes <a href="#comma"><span class="typos">"The Mesa Verde region",</span></a><br /> +</div> +</div> + + + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO *** + +***** This file should be named 35936-h.htm or 35936-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/9/3/35936/ + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Tom Cosmas and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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