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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Canterbury, by Canon Danks
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Canterbury
+
+Author: Canon Danks
+
+Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust
+
+Release Date: February 15, 2011 [EBook #35276]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANTERBURY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sankar Viswanathan, Juliet Sutherland, and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                [Illustration: THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS
+
+                               (_Page 12_) _Frontispiece_]
+
+
+
+                              CANTERBURY
+
+
+                       DESCRIBED BY CANON DANKS
+
+                     PICTURED BY E. W. HASLEHUST
+
+
+
+
+                        BLACKIE & SON LIMITED
+
+                          LONDON AND GLASGOW
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                      Facing
+                                                       Page
+
+The Canterbury Weavers             _Frontispiece_
+
+St. Nicholas, Harbledown                                   8
+
+Canterbury from the Stour                                 12
+
+The Greyfriars' House                                     16
+
+Mercery Lane                                              20
+
+Canterbury Cathedral from Christ Church Gate              24
+
+Christ Church Gate, Entrance to Cathedral Precincts       29
+
+Fordwich                                                  33
+
+St. Martin's Church                                       37
+
+Westgate                                                  44
+
+The Gateway, St. Augustine's Abbey                        48
+
+Gateway of St. John's Hospital                            52
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CANTERBURY]
+
+THE CITY
+
+
+This little essay on a great subject is neither a guidebook nor a
+history, though it may, for many, be enough, for their purpose, of
+both. With its illustrations of ancient and famous scenes it is, let
+us say, a keepsake or memorial for some of the hundred thousand
+pilgrims who still annually visit Canterbury, and fall under the spell
+of its enchantments. It may recall to them in distant homes, some of
+them overseas, the thrill with which they first beheld the mother-city
+of English Christianity, the great church, inwoven with so much of
+English history, which in the Middle Ages contained one of the most
+venerated and far-sought shrines in Europe.
+
+There are certainly not more than one or two cities in the kingdom
+which rival Canterbury in interest, or bring back to us more vividly
+"the days that are no more". Here is the work of pre-historic man in
+the Dane John (variant of Donjon or stronghold) and long earthen
+rampart which guarded the ford of the Stour. Here are the bastions and
+parapet of the city wall, with which the soldiers of the Middle Ages
+faced and fortified the British earthwork. Here is Saxon building with
+Roman materials, as in the churches of St. Pancras and St. Martin,
+where Roman bricks abound, and Roman columns, perhaps of some
+forgotten heathen temple, are not wanting. In the Roman cemeteries
+outside the walls have been found bracelets, pins, mirrors,
+horse-bits, coins, even rouge-pots. Hither converged the Roman roads
+from the military ports of Richborough, Dover, and Lympne (now high
+and dry). Along these roads for some four hundred years tramped the
+Roman legionaries under their centurions, entering and leaving the
+city respectively by the streets now known as Burgate, Watling Street,
+and Wincheap. Here dwelt, in the sixth century, Queen Bertha,
+foster-mother of English Christianity, with her heathen husband
+Ethelbert, King of Kent; and here, in the new era which dated from the
+arrival of Augustine's monkish procession with its silver cross and
+painted Christ (as told once for all by Dean Stanley), these three
+laboured at that "building without hands" of which the Cathedral is an
+outward type and embodiment. Hither converged in mediæval times the
+Pilgrims' Ways, still partly traceable on the ordnance map, from
+London, as in Chaucer's Tales, from Southampton, and from Sandwich.
+
+On July 7, the feast of the Translation of Becket's bones from the
+Crypt to the Trinity Chapel, and especially at the Great Pardons or
+Jubilees of the Feast every fifty years, from 1220 to 1520, these ways
+were crowded with pilgrims, English or foreign, on foot or on
+horseback, sick or whole, sad or merry, intent on paying homage and
+receiving a blessing, above all of winning the promised plenary
+indulgence at the miracle-working shrine. From the offerings of these
+pilgrims came in great measure the huge sums of money which enabled
+the monks to extend and exalt their church to its present
+magnificence. In 1220, the first of the Great Pardons, it has been
+estimated that 100,000 pilgrims offered £20,000 of our money; and this
+did not include the stream of worshippers and gifts that flowed on
+other days of the year. If we add to these "devotions of the people"
+the splendid generosity of the monks and clergy, we begin to
+understand how the Cathedral was paid for. Lanfranc gave the whole
+revenues of the manor of East Peckham, bestowed on him by William the
+Conqueror; and he was but the first of a series of munificent
+archbishops.
+
+It is one of the curiosities of history, though by no means without
+parallel, that these lavish gifts and this energy of costly building
+continued up to the very edge of doom. The great central tower, the
+Angel Steeple or Bell Harry, was not finished till 1490; Christ Church
+Gatehouse not till 1517; Henry VIII himself made offerings at the
+shrine in 1520. In 1538 he gave orders to plunder the shrine and burn
+Becket's bones, and in 1540 the monastery was dissolved.
+
+It may be as well here to give some idea of the value of the spoil.
+"The official return of the actual gold of the shrine was 4994-3/4
+oz., the gilt plate weighed 4425 oz., the parcel gilt 840 oz., and the
+plain silver 5286 oz." But Erasmus, who visited Canterbury in 1513,
+writes: "The least valuable portion was gold; every part glistened,
+shone, and sparkled with rare and very large jewels, some of them
+exceeding the size of a goose's egg.... The principal of them were
+offerings sent by sovereign princes." As, for instance, the golden cup
+presented by Louis VII of France in 1179, and the Royal Jewel of
+France, an immense ruby or carbuncle, given by the same Prince, which
+afterwards figured in a great ring on Henry's portentous thumb, and
+(we are rather surprised to learn) in the necklace of his Roman
+Catholic daughter Mary. There were crucifixes, statuettes, and
+ornaments of precious metal; there were innumerable gems, so that the
+last visitor at the shrine, in the very year of its destruction,
+declared "that if she had not seen it, all the men in the world could
+never a' made her to believe it".
+
+[Illustration: ST. NICHOLAS, HARBLEDOWN
+
+(_Page 10_)]
+
+We are scarcely surprised, therefore, to hear of the two large chests
+with which seven or eight men staggered out of the church, or of the
+twenty-six cartloads of vestments, plate, and other Cathedral property
+which were dispatched to London. The total value of Henry's
+confiscations from this church and priory is thought to have been not
+less than three million pounds of our money. For more than three
+hundred years there had been, outside Rome, no more famous place of
+pilgrimage, no more wonderful treasury of gifts and relics. One can
+guess the thoughts of the "sovereign princes" and other devout donors,
+when their costly offerings and those of their ancestors were poured
+pell-mell into the gaping coffers of the English king. It is less easy
+to guess the thoughts of the Canterbury citizens and other English
+folk who looked on with scarcely a protest. Some probably were cowed,
+and some sympathetic. Perhaps a dim consciousness was waking in the
+minds of the people, that monasticism and relic-worship had outlived
+their day of service, and that a new age was at hand. Even under Queen
+Mary no attempt was made to replace the shrine or renew the
+pilgrimages.
+
+Let us, however, be as pilgrims ourselves--Chaucer's if you will--and
+enter the city along their ancient well-trodden way from the Tabard
+Inn at Southwark. Only we will start a short mile and a half from
+Canterbury at the Leper Hospital of Harbledown. It is now a group of
+modern almshouses, but still has its prior and sub-prior, as in the
+days when the lepers lived under the shadow of Lanfranc's Church of
+St. Nicholas, which they were forbidden to enter. This church and the
+square-timbered entrance by the porter's lodge are shown in our
+illustration.
+
+An aged bedesman, on the steps to this garden porch, would greet the
+travellers in the road with a shower of sprinkled holy water, and hold
+out to be kissed by them a crystal set in the upper leather of the
+martyred Becket's shoe. The upper leather is gone, perhaps kissed
+away, but the crystal is still shown in the hospital, set in an old
+bowl of maple-wood. Erasmus and Colet came here in 1513, and were
+invited to do as others. They were scholars and thinkers, full of the
+new learning, and therefore scornful of the sanctity of slippers and
+bones. They declined--Colet rather crossly; Erasmus (tolerant soul)
+with a humorous twinkle and a kindly coin for the bedesman's box which
+is still to be seen within.
+
+A few steps onward up the steep little Harbledown Hill and we have a
+view of Canterbury Cathedral across the River Stour--a view which has
+delighted the eye and heart of many pilgrims, whether ancient or
+modern. Nearly a mile downhill and we come to St. Dunstan's Church in
+the environs of Canterbury. Here in a vault is the head of a nobler
+martyr than Becket--of a man with all Becket's constancy and faith,
+with more than Becket's intellect, and without his haughty spirit and
+violent temper. All the world knows how the head of Sir Thomas More,
+one of the best and wisest of Englishmen, was set on London Bridge as
+the head of a traitor, and how, after fourteen days of this ignominy,
+it secretly passed into the possession of his daughter, Margaret
+Roper. It is less generally known that she finally placed it in the
+Roper vault in St. Dunstan's.
+
+On the opposite side of the road, a little nearer the town, is the old
+brick archway which was once the approach to Margaret Roper's house,
+and beneath which father and daughter, who loved each other dearly,
+must often have passed together.
+
+We have all been with David Copperfield and his aunt to Mr.
+Wickfield's house in Canterbury--"A very old house bulging out over
+the road; a house with long, low lattice windows bulging out still
+farther, and beams with carved heads on the ends bulging out too; so
+that I fancied that the whole house was leaning forward, trying to see
+who was passing on the pavement below".
+
+Nowhere in the country will you find so many of these old houses; some
+of them in part dating back to the fourteenth century; and Dickens
+felt the charm of them. Many are now hidden behind ugly modern fronts,
+but many are yet unspoiled. Doubtless some of these in St. Dunstan's
+Street took in belated pilgrims who arrived after curfew and the
+shutting of the city gate.
+
+Just outside Westgate is the old Falstaff Inn, with its sign suspended
+from a remarkable bracket of fifteenth-century ironwork. This reminds
+us that before the era of coal mining in the north, Kentish men were
+craftsmen in iron, obtaining unlimited fuel from the forest of the
+Weald. Doubtless there were Kentish pikes and blades, Kentish helmets
+and hauberks, at Cressy and Poitiers, at Agincourt, in the Wars of the
+Roses, and at Flodden. While we are looking at old houses let us pass
+through Westgate (we will return in a moment) and visit the Canterbury
+Weavers, shown in our illustration. It rises sheer from the water, and
+its windows "bulge" over the water, where the river crosses the
+street near Eastbridge Hospital. It is, in spite of repairs and
+restorations, a fifteenth-century building, and, as viewed from the
+bridge, not less picturesque than a nook of Bruges or Ghent.
+
+[Illustration: CANTERBURY FROM THE STOUR
+
+(_Page 11_)]
+
+Eastbridge Hospital, just opposite, belongs to the thirteenth and
+fourteenth centuries, but is not a specimen of domestic architecture.
+It is a charitable foundation which survived Tudor confiscations
+through the intercession of Cranmer, and still shelters its aged poor.
+Somewhat farther, on the same side, is No. 37, a French silk-weaver's
+house, built in the fifteenth century for one of the refugees from
+religious persecution. It is almost unchanged: the ground floor is the
+shop, the first floor is for the family and the loom, and the story
+above has its door for receiving the bales of silk hauled up from the
+street.
+
+We must not wander farther without turning to look at Westgate, the
+last remaining of Canterbury's seven city gates and the best thing of
+its kind in the kingdom. With its round flanking towers and its
+massive portal, it takes us back in a moment to the fourteenth
+century, and makes us wonder and sigh that citizens could have had the
+heart to destroy its fellows. For even as late as the beginning of the
+nineteenth century the walls and gates of the ancient town were almost
+intact. With grim amusement, not unmixed with disgust, we recall the
+story that once the Town Council was equally divided on the
+proposition that it should be pulled down to admit the huge caravans
+of Wombwell's Wild Beast Show. It was saved only by the casting vote
+of the Mayor, to whose common sense it occurred to make a way round
+it. And that Mayor, not the least of Canterbury's worthies, is not
+even yet commemorated by--
+
+                        "Colossal bust
+    Or column trophied for triumphal show".
+
+There was an earlier Norman gateway here with, oddly as it seems to
+us, the Church of the Holy Cross on the top of it. In 1380 Archbishop
+Simon Sudbury built the present structure and found ground space
+beside it for the church. And thereby hangs a tale. Sudbury was not
+only a munificent builder, but a man of vigorous mind, wise before his
+time. He overtook a company of pilgrims nearing this gate, and spoke
+to them very plainly on the matter of relics and pilgrimages,
+declaring that no Pope or plenary indulgence could avail without the
+contrite heart and the changed life. This was, be it remembered, 150
+years before the Reformation, and not even from a bishop could such a
+doctrine be received. The fury of the crowd found voice in the curse
+flung then and there upon the preacher by one of the Kentish gentry:
+"My Lord Bishop, for this act of yours, stirring the people to
+sedition against St. Thomas, I stake the salvation of my soul that you
+will close your life by a most terrible death". "From the beginning of
+the world", adds the Chronicler, "it never has been heard that anyone
+ever injured the Cathedral of Canterbury and was not punished by the
+Lord." Eleven years later, for his share in the hated Poll-tax, the
+Archbishop was dragged out of the Tower of London by the rebels under
+Wat Tyler and beheaded. His body was buried in the choir of the
+Cathedral, and when uncovered accidentally was found to have a leaden
+ball in the place of the head, which is still preserved at his native
+Sudbury.
+
+From Westgate the main street, under as many _aliases_ as a hardened
+criminal, starting as St. Peter's Street, continuing as High Street,
+Parade, and St. George's Street, runs the whole length of the city,
+with quaint and curious dwellings on either hand. If we were real
+pilgrims, and had walked or ridden all the way from London, we should
+make at once for "The Chequers of the Hope" mentioned in the
+supplementary Canterbury Tale. It is only a few hundred yards away,
+where Mercery Lane turns off to the left, and has, or had, its
+dormitory of a hundred beds. Alas! it was burned down in 1865, and we
+shall recognize it only by a modern carving of the Black Prince's
+crest--the leopard with protruding tongue--on the stone corner of the
+house where the two streets meet.
+
+As, however, we are but amateur pilgrims, and not very tired, we will
+loiter about the city. Let us ask Mr. Pierce's permission to trespass
+in his Franciscan Gardens in Stour Street, near the Post Office. For
+there we shall find, neglected and decayed, but still beautiful with a
+sad and ruined beauty, the last monument of the Greyfriars or
+Franciscans, once the most popular of the monastic orders. It is a
+little house which occupies no ground, for it is built on arches over
+a branch of the Stour, and its slender supporting pillars rise from
+the middle of the river bed. As we consider it, we may remember the
+story of Elizabeth Barton "The Holy Maid of Kent", the devout,
+visionary, hysterical girl, promoted from a kitchen to a nunnery, who,
+amongst other and harmless or edifying revelations, felt bidden to
+denounce the King's divorce from Katherine, and was taken, or bravely
+went, to Henry to tell him so.
+
+[Illustration: THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE
+
+(_Page 16_)]
+
+The poor creature was executed at Tyburn with some six of her
+teachers, confessors, and abettors, amongst them the warden and one of
+the brethren of Greyfriars, who must often have gone in and out of
+this battered doorway. Let us add, to the credit of luckless Anne
+Boleyn, that she alone of all concerned had the grace to intercede
+with her royal tiger on the girl's behalf. There is a perhaps more
+attractive memory clinging to the place. In the seventeenth century
+here, for a time, lived Richard Lovelace, the handsomest man of his
+time--the Royalist poet who wrote two of the best songs in the
+language, the gay cavalier who died in want and despair because his
+lady-love, on his reported death, married another man. He may have
+written "Going to the Wars" in this very house--
+
+    "I could not love thee, dear, so much
+    Loved I not honour more".
+
+But "To Althea"--
+
+    "Stone walls do not a prison make,
+    Nor iron bars a cage",
+
+he wrote while imprisoned by the House of Commons for presenting a
+Kentish Petition on behalf of King Charles.
+
+While we are thinking of poets, and their not infrequent tendency (in
+the past) to a bad end, we may as well walk up High Street. Various
+epochs and ages look down upon us on either side, though too often
+through modern windows. Near the top, on the right-hand side, we shall
+find a very old house with a very new front, and the business label
+of Achille Serre. This is the birthplace of Christopher Marlowe, one
+of the nest of Elizabethan singing-birds--
+
+    "With mouth of gold, and morning in his eyes",
+
+who, perhaps, had a hand in Shakespeare's _Henry VI_. He was born in
+the same year as Shakespeare, and, in spite of a reckless life and
+early death, came nearer to him in power than any other dramatist of
+the day. He was killed in a tavern brawl before he was thirty, but
+found time to write immortal things, amongst them "The Passionate
+Pilgrim":
+
+    "Come live with me and be my love",
+
+a quite other sort of pilgrim than those who sought Becket's shrine.
+
+It is said that he was an "atheist", and that the tavern dagger was
+just in time to save him from imminent risk of stake and faggot. This
+naturally leads us from his birthplace, along St. George's Terrace,
+which is really the old earthwork faced with mediæval stone, to the
+spot where atheists, heretics, traitors, and witches used to meet
+their fate. This is the Dane John already mentioned as a pre-historic
+mound. Dr. Cox, in his volume on Canterbury in the "Ancient Cities"
+series, gives the following extract from the city accounts touching
+the death on the Dane John of one John Stone, an Austin friar, who
+denied that the Sovereign was Supreme Head of the Church:--
+
+     "Paid for half a tonne of tymber to make a payre of Gallaces
+     to hang Fryer Stone. For a Carpenter for making the same
+     Gallaces and the dray. For a labourer who digged the holes.
+     To iiij men who holp set up the Gallaces. For drynk to them.
+     For carriage of tymber from Stablegate to the Dongeon. For
+     ij men that sett the Ketyl and parboyled hym. To ij men that
+     caryed his quarters to the gate and set them up. For a
+     halter to hang hym. For two halfpenny halters. For Sandwich
+     cord. For Strawe. To the woman that scowred the Ketyll. To
+     hym that dyd execucion iiijs viijd."
+
+Friar Stone, it is to be feared, is only one of a long procession of
+tortured ghosts who might meet us where the children play on the Dane
+John. But it was not always the place of execution, it came to be a
+coign of vantage from which the orthodox (for the time being) could
+comfortably view, not without lunch-baskets, what went on in Martyr's
+Field, now marked with an obelisk a little to the south-west of the
+mound. Here were forty, men, women, and children, "brent" or burnt at
+the stake in the reign of Queen Mary for asserting what Friar Stone
+denied. Their names are carved in granite on the spot where they died,
+and the motto on the monument is: "Lest We Forget".
+
+From the Dane John we may return along the earthen rampart by the
+city wall to St. George's Street, and ask our way to St. Martin's,
+believed by competent enquirers to be the oldest church not only in
+England, but in Europe. It certainly existed in the sixth century,
+when Queen Bertha came to its services through the postern still known
+as Quenengate. Bede, the father of English history and the most
+learned man of the seventh century, says that there was a Christian
+church here during the Roman occupation. As the Romans left in 410,
+this gives a record of fifteen centuries of worship on this site. Here
+King Ethelbert was baptized by Augustine, and a representation of this
+event graven on an ancient seal gives a font much resembling the one
+still in use.
+
+The walls, of course, have been patched and repaired many times, but
+are, especially in the chancel, full of Roman bricks and Saxon
+workmanship. There are indications that some of the courses were
+actually laid by Roman hands; and, if this be so, imagination may
+carry us back far earlier than Augustine, to the legend that Joseph of
+Arimathea brought the Gospel to Britain within a generation of the
+death of Our Lord.
+
+[Illustration: MERCERY LANE
+
+(_Page 21_)]
+
+On our way back to the town, if we step inside the Infirmary grounds,
+we shall see the ruins of St. Pancras, built, it is said, by Augustine
+on the foundations of an "Idol-temple" where Ethelbert worshipped
+before his conversion. Roman bricks abound, Roman pillars are built
+into the wall, and there are still the remains of an altar in a tiny
+chapel where probably Augustine officiated.
+
+Now we may return to the "Chequers of the Hope", but not to its
+dormitory of a hundred beds. There is a fine frankness, far removed
+from modern municipal ambition, in the names of these old streets.
+Mercery Lane, Butchery Lane, Wincheap (Wine Market), and Beer-Cart
+Lane tell their own story. As we look down narrow, crooked Mercery
+Lane, with its overhanging fronts, struggling to survive
+"improvements", we not only recognize "the last enchantments of the
+Middle Age", but we ask what kind of mercery used to stock the stalls
+under the arcades which once sheltered the sidewalks? Chiefly, no
+doubt, cheap memorials or "signs" of the accomplished pilgrimage; the
+little leaden bottles or "ampulles", containing water from the well
+near Becket's tomb in the crypt, and the infinitesimal tincture
+therein of the martyr's blood; also leaden brooches representing his
+mitred head. "These signs", says Dean Stanley, "they fastened on their
+hats or caps, or hung from their necks, and thus were henceforth
+distinguished. As the pilgrims from Compostella brought home the
+scallop-shells which still lie on the seashores of Gallicia--as the
+'Palmers' from Palestine brought the palm-branches still given at the
+Easter Pilgrimage--as the 'roamers' from Rome brought models of St.
+Peter's keys, or a 'Vernicle'--that is a pattern of Veronica's
+handkerchief--sewed on their caps--so the Canterbury Pilgrim had his
+hat thickset with a 'hundred ampulles' or with leaden brooches. Many
+of these are said to have been found in the beds of the Stour and the
+Thames, dropped as the vast concourse departed from Canterbury or
+reached London."
+
+What processions, triumphal or funereal, have passed along Mercery
+Lane and crossed the little open space before the gateway to the
+Precincts! Two French kings, and nearly every English sovereign till
+Queen Anne, have been here. Louis VII of France as a pilgrim, John of
+France as the captive of the Black Prince, Henry II on his bitter
+pilgrimage of penance in 1174; Richard Coeur de Lion with his
+captive, William the Lion of Scotland, in 1189; Henry III with the
+Magna Carta Archbishop Stephen Langton at the Great Pardon of 1220.
+Here before the Cathedral gate halted for a moment the weeping
+cavalcade when they buried the Black Prince, in 1376--
+
+    "To the noise of the mourning of a mighty nation,
+    Mourning when its leaders fall".
+
+No man bearing weapons was admitted to the Precincts after the murder
+of Becket; therefore the two emblematic riders who had accompanied the
+bier from Westgate, "one bearing the Prince's arms of England and
+France, the other the ostrich feathers--one to represent the Prince in
+his splendid suite as he rode in war, the other to represent him in
+black as he rode to tournaments"--had here to fall out of rank. Here
+were borne to their grave Henry IV and his Queen Joan of Navarre. Dean
+Stanley remarks that Henry IV as a child of ten was perhaps present as
+a mourner at the Black Prince's funeral, unknowing that he should
+overthrow the Prince's son Richard II and finally rest by the famous
+warrior's side.
+
+The devout but incapable and unfortunate Henry VI was at Canterbury
+eleven times, and more than once as a pilgrim. As a pilgrim, in
+humblest guise, he was here after his final defeat at Tewkesbury, his
+Queen in captivity, his son dead on the field "stabbed by the Yorkist
+Lords after Edward (the Fourth) had met his cry for mercy with a
+buffet from his gauntlet". Henry himself went hence to die in the
+Tower, and so end the hopes of the House of Lancaster.
+
+The little open space between Mercery Lane and the Precincts gatehouse
+has seen many strange doings which we cannot record. In the
+thirteenth century Canterbury was requisitioned for a contingent of
+Edward I's Welsh invasion, and the monks refused to bear their share
+of the expense. This led to a furious dispute with the citizens, an
+embittered kind of "Town and Gown". A trench was dug before the gate
+to prevent ingress and egress of men or victuals, and the brethren
+appear to have been starved out. In the fifteenth century Edward IV
+hanged the Mayor and some of his friends here for complicity in
+treason.
+
+But these "old, unhappy far-off things" were before the existence of
+the present beautiful Perpendicular gatehouse, depicted in our
+illustration. Its Norman predecessor was still standing, lower,
+plainer, grimmer, like most Norman buildings. Prior Goldston did not
+finish this one till 1517. In 1520, when its carvings were fresh and
+the stone bright in the sunshine, and the great statue of Our Lord
+looked down from over the archway, and the octagonal side-turrets,
+like those of St. Augustine's, were not within three hundred years of
+being pulled down that bank-clerks might see the Cathedral clock from
+the other end of Mercery Lane--then there came to the last of the
+Great Pardons, with trumpetings and gorgeous retinue, two great kings
+riding under one canopy. One was Henry VIII and the other the
+mightiest monarch in Christendom, Charles V the Emperor of Germany,
+Spain, and the Netherlands, President of the Diet which tried to
+murder Luther, as the Council of Constance had murdered Huss; but a
+far better man than Henry, and uncle of Henry's Queen, Katherine.
+Before them rode Cardinal Wolsey, and there were Spanish Grandees, and
+English Nobles, and Queen Katherine herself. "The streets", says Dr.
+Cox, "were lined with priests and clerks from all the parishes within
+twenty miles of the city, with censers, crosses, surplices, and copes
+of the richest sort. At the great west doors of the church (still
+opened only for royalties and archbishops) they were met by the
+Archbishop, and after saying their devotions they proceeded to
+Wareham's Palace. On one evening of that week Wareham gave a great
+ball in the hall of the Palace, when the Emperor danced with the then
+Queen of England, and Henry with the Queen of Aragon, the Emperor's
+mother."
+
+[Illustration: CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM CHRIST CHURCH GATE
+
+(_Page 24_)]
+
+Henry, as we know, had a taste for cloth of gold, and the affair must
+have been sufficiently sumptuous. This was perhaps the last of the
+great pageants.
+
+Charles I came here with his fifteen-year-old bride; Charles II was
+gracious at considerable expense to the citizens, and brought as his
+Archbishop the faithful Juxon, who had been chaplain on the fatal day
+at Whitehall and had received the mystic word "Remember"; Elizabeth in
+her haughty way was "exceeding magnifical" at the charges of
+Archbishop Parker, whose wife she declined to call Madam, since
+clergymen had no business with wives. The little square has also
+humbler associations. It has been a bull-ring, where the poor beasts
+were baited "to make them man's meat and fit to be eaten". It has had
+a beautifully carved Market Cross, which gave place to the doubtful
+memorial to Marlowe. The massive oaken doors bear Juxon's coat of
+arms, for he set them up in place of those destroyed by the Puritans.
+They are open; let us pass to the object of our pilgrimage, the great
+Cathedral whose builders built better than they knew, and left for all
+time a history of this land and its faith, written and illuminated in
+stone.
+
+
+
+
+THE CATHEDRAL
+
+
+Once within Christ Church Gate, and in view of the whole southern side
+of the Cathedral, we may pause for a moment and enjoy the vision. That
+central tower, surely for dignity and beauty without its peer in the
+land, took from first to last fifty years in the building, and was
+christened from its first stone the Angel Steeple, from the figure
+with which it was to be crowned, though now, the Angel having taken
+flight, it is usually known as Bell Harry, from the great bell hung in
+it. Mark in the sunshine (for it is a sunny day) the depth and variety
+of shadows and lights on its moulded and sculptured surface. Not
+without pity and indignation do we read that Goldwell, the last of the
+priors who built the gatehouse and completed the tower, begged in
+vain, when a palsied old man, at the dissolution of the convent, to be
+continued in his old home as the first Dean. Nicholas Wotton, a wily
+monk not of the fraternity, whose stone effigy you will see kneeling
+in the Trinity Chapel, was appointed in his stead.
+
+After Bell Harry, the next place in our admiration is due to the
+Norman staircase-turret, somewhat farther east, with arcading so fine
+and decorative as to remind us of arabesque. This turret, with its
+fellow on the north side, and the ruined staircase in the Green Court,
+are Norman work unsurpassed anywhere. The fivelight Decorated window
+of St. Anselm's Chapel is believed by well-qualified judges to be the
+most beautiful instance of early fourteenth-century tracery in the
+country. It is, of course, much later than the chapel, and was
+inserted, in 1336, by Prior Oxenden, whose account states the cost at
+£42, or about £650 of our money, all given by himself and his friends.
+
+On our walk to the Norman turret and St. Anselm's Chapel we notice,
+under the east window of the Warrior's Chapel, a projection like a low
+buttress. It is the foot of Stephen Langton's tomb. He was originally
+buried within, when the chapel was built on to the transept; and later
+laid here, with the altar over his head, and his feet in the open
+ground.
+
+[Illustration: CHRIST CHURCH GATE--ENTRANCE TO CATHEDRAL PRECINCTS
+
+(_Page 24_)]
+
+As we move along the Precincts we are treading on the dust of the
+Cathedral-builders. For all this southern side was a graveyard--of the
+laity as far as St. Anselm's, and of the monks and clergy beyond. The
+two were divided by a wall, in which was set as gateway the gabled
+Norman arch which is now the entrance to the Bowling Green in front of
+us. It is a curious reflection that, in those days of primitive
+transport, these walls and towers were brought stone by stone from the
+quarries at Caen in Normandy. The barges crossed the Channel and were
+unloaded at Fordwych, about two miles from Canterbury. Formerly the
+tides came up the river in considerable volume, and Fordwych was a
+flourishing port with its Mayor and Corporation; and still has its
+queer little town hall, its ducking stool for scolds, and its prison,
+though only a tiny hamlet of one hundred and fifty people. When Louis
+VII of France made his annual grant of 1600 gallons of wine to Christ
+Church Priory, a fee was paid to the Mayor of Fordwych for the use of
+his crane in lifting the barrels from the boats. Not many years ago,
+at an audit of the Chapter Accounts, a yearly item of forty shillings
+was identified as this very fee, which has been regularly paid for
+centuries, after the "Wine of St. Thomas" had been consumed,
+discontinued, and forgotten. Whether this odd survival will more
+interest the historic, or shock the financial, sense of our American
+visitors is a question of psychology.
+
+The nave was not built till the end of the fourteenth century, and is
+therefore one of the latest parts of the church. Of the two western
+towers the northern stood, as built by Lanfranc shortly after the
+Conquest, till 1834. During the excavations preparatory to the
+present structure it is said that the skeletons of a man and two
+bullocks were found in an upright position, as they had sunk into the
+marsh in Norman times. All this side was very marshy, and the crypt of
+the choir was frequently flooded. The ground-level has risen during
+the last few centuries, but is still only some 20 or 30 feet above the
+sea.
+
+Above the outer entrance of the south-west porch is a bas-relief,
+blackened with age, of the altar which, after Becket's murder in the
+Martyrdom, was erected at the spot where he fell. It was called the
+Altar of the Sword's Point; and the fragment of Richard the Breton's
+sword, which dealt the last fierce blow, and was shivered on the
+pavement, is seen here at the foot of the altar. Above it is a
+crucifix with the figures of St. John and the Virgin. The pilgrims
+used to offer their gifts and prayers at three holy places in
+succession, at the "Sword's Point", in the Martyrdom; then at the
+earlier tomb of Becket in the crypt; and lastly at the shrine in the
+Trinity Chapel.
+
+Inside the porch, when Erasmus was here (1513), there were three stone
+figures of the murderers in full armour, "enjoying", he says, "the
+same sort of fame as Judas, Pilate, and Caiaphas". In Saxon times the
+porch served not only as entrance to the church, but also as
+courthouse and muniment room, where the Kings of Kent did justice and
+judgment. Of course the present structure is much later, but both
+porch and nave cover the ground-plan of the ancient church of
+Lanfranc, which had a short choir, and an apse like that of a Roman
+basilica.
+
+Let us enter, and, having looked at the great west window, filled with
+thirteenth-century glass from other parts of the Cathedral, let us
+face eastward, with the vast piers and lofty arches on either hand. We
+see the long flight of steps up to the choir, and perhaps get a
+glimpse, through the door in the screen, of the farther and higher
+flight up to the Holy Table. This long vista, with its double ascent,
+is said to have greatly impressed the mediæval pilgrims, as indeed it
+still impresses us. There is nothing, I think, elsewhere quite like
+it; and it was doubtless intended to symbolize and accentuate the idea
+of "going up to" the shrine, which was in the exalted Trinity Chapel
+as in a throne-room. Incidentally this unusual elevation of the
+eastern floor of the church made possible one of the finest crypts in
+existence, which for space and dignity is a church in itself.
+
+As we go forward to the choir steps, and stand below the screen and
+under the central tower, there is much to observe. Overhead are the
+carved stone "struts" or crosspieces with which Prior Goldston
+buttressed his piers, and distributed the strain of the tower's
+enormous weight. Their date is marked by the rebus of the builder's
+name T and P (for Thomas, Prior), and between the letters a gilded
+stone. A similar rebus is in the crypt on Cardinal Morton's
+monument--a mort or hawk perched on a tun or barrel.
+
+The great window in the south transept, on our right, belongs to the
+fifteenth century, but is filled with magnificent glass brought from
+the choir clerestory, and 200 years older than the mullions which
+frame it. The corresponding north transept window was filled with
+splendid glass by Edward IV; the ecclesiastical figures in the topmost
+tracery, some borders, and the panels representing the King with his
+two sons who perished in the Tower, and his Queen, Elizabeth
+Woodville, with her daughters, still remain. The eldest girl is
+Elizabeth of York, who married Henry VII, and so ended the feud of
+York and Lancaster. The rest of the glass, which illustrated the life
+of the Virgin, and the miracles of St. Thomas of Canterbury, was
+smashed by the pike of the Puritan miscreant Culmer, who gloried in
+having "rattled down Becket's glassy bones". It is strange that he
+spared three of the unique thirteenth-century Becket windows in the
+Trinity Chapel. It is said that, as he was at work on his ladder, a
+townsman below enquired what he was doing. "The work of the Lord," was
+the reply. "Then if it please the Lord I will help you," and an
+adroit boulder was flung at his head. This may have cooled his zeal;
+but, alas! there is room for misgiving that he ducked his head in
+time. So the happiest hopes of history have sometimes miscarried.
+
+[Illustration: FORDWICH
+
+(_Page 29_)]
+
+On our right, again, is the entrance from the south transept into St.
+Michael's, or the Warriors' Chapel, where the honoured grave of
+Langton, the Magna Charta archbishop, is half inside and half outside,
+the wall striding over him by an arch so that his head should lie
+under the altar. This chapel contains, and was probably enlarged to
+contain, the extremely fine monument of Lady Margaret Holland and her
+two husbands, which is a perfect study of the armour and dress of the
+early fifteenth century. The first husband was Earl of Somerset and
+half-brother of Henry IV, and the second was, curiously, nephew of the
+first and brother of Henry V. The lady outlived them both and placed
+their effigies here with her own between them. She was the
+stepdaughter of the Black Prince.
+
+On our left again, in the north transept, is the far-famed Martyrdom,
+the spot where Becket died and became St. Thomas. Here is the ground
+on which the hunted prelate, powerful in body as in mind, caught up
+Tracy in his full armour and flung him on the pavement. Here is the
+door from the cloister through which Becket came for sanctuary, and
+which he refused to bar against his assailants come for murder--"The
+Church must not be turned into a Castle." Here is the place where the
+slain Archbishop lay, his head "four feet from the wall", where
+afterwards was erected to his memory the Altar of the Sword's Point.
+
+From hence he was carried to the tomb in the crypt, where he lay for
+fifty years until the Translation to the Shrine in Trinity Chapel in
+1220. It is not for me in this brief sketch to tell what has been told
+so dramatically by Stanley in his _Memorials_, and with such
+historical insight by Green in his History. It was a duel between the
+Civil and the Ecclesiastical sovereignties, represented respectively
+by Henry II and his Archbishop; both of them, for all their genius,
+too haughty, violent, and headstrong to bring a difficult controversy
+to a close, or even to a lasting truce.
+
+Before we leave the Martyrdom we must notice the oldest effigy in the
+Cathedral, that of Peckham, Edward I's Archbishop, who died in 1292,
+and beside it that of Wareham, the last archbishop before the
+Reformation, who half yielded to Henry VIII and repented of yielding,
+and in a few months died, partly perhaps of the sore perplexity and
+trouble of the time. A comparison of the two canopies will mark for us
+the advance in decorative art between the thirteenth and the early
+sixteenth centuries. The door into the cloister has its brighter as
+well as its dark memory. For here, at the entrance of what was then
+deemed the most sacred enclosure in the land, was Edward I, that
+great, stern, tender-hearted King, married to Margaret of Anjou, nine
+years after he had lost the wife of whom he wrote: "I loved her
+tenderly in her life; I do not cease to love her now she is dead".
+
+The pilgrims were usually conducted from the altar in the Martyrdom to
+the "Tumba" or first resting place of the "holy blissful martyr",
+which was in the crypt. The whole of the crypt was dedicated to the
+Virgin, and the Chapel of Our Lady of the Undercroft, though now dark
+and deserted, is still enclosed by the lovely stone tracery placed
+round it by the Black Prince as a memorial of his marriage. When
+Erasmus was here he said it was "so loaded with riches" as to be "a
+more than royal spectacle", and he added: "It is shown but to noblemen
+and particular friends". Doubtless though the treasures were hidden
+from the common pilgrim, the altar was always accessible to his
+devotion. Cardinal Morton desired to be buried near the image of Our
+Lady of the Undercroft, and his tomb is close by. He may be remembered
+as the minister of Henry VII and author of _Morton's Fork_. It was an
+eminently successful method of finance, which may remind us of a
+modern Budget. Its principle was that those who spend much can
+obviously afford to pay, and those who spend little can well afford
+the taxation of their savings.
+
+Under the south choir transept is another memorial of the Black
+Prince. It is the double chantry exacted by the Pope as the price of a
+dispensation to marry his cousin. The Prince came to Canterbury
+himself, met the prior and the mason, and gave orders for the work,
+which perhaps included the sculptured face of his beautiful wife in
+one of the bosses of the roof. The chantry, with its two apses for the
+mass priests, is now the Chapel of the French Protestants, who have
+had services here since the royal permission in 1575. After the
+Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1685, the refugees are said to
+have numbered three thousand, and to have gained for Canterbury a
+large trade in silk-weaving and paper-making. Their descendants are
+now merged into the English population, but their names and the weekly
+French service still survive.
+
+[Illustration: ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH
+
+(_Page 20_)]
+
+There have been two comparatively recent discoveries in the crypt. One
+is the well which probably supplied the water for the "ampulles" or
+leaden bottles of the pilgrims, the other is a stone chest containing
+bones which many believe to be the actual remains of Becket. They
+are certainly those of a tall man, placed in a receptacle which was
+not their original coffin, and there is certainly the mark of violence
+on the skull. It has been cogently argued by Dr. Moore, a canon of
+this Cathedral, and Principal of St. Edmund's Hall, Oxford, in a
+lecture which will, I hope, be printed, that as the bones of Dante at
+Ravenna, and of Cuthbert at Durham, were removed from their shrines to
+avoid violation, and others substituted to avoid discovery of the
+removal, so the bones of Becket were removed and hidden by the monks
+in the interval of suspense before the King's final orders arrived.
+They remain where they were found, and the slab above them, though it
+bears no inscription, will be readily pointed out by a guide. Before
+we bid farewell to the crypt we must call to mind one of the earliest
+and greatest of all the pilgrims. In 1174, not quite four years after
+the murder, Henry II, as a barefooted penitent, laid his head on the
+tomb of Becket between those two slender pillars, and gave his back to
+the scourge of the monks and clergy. How far this suffering and
+humiliation, which brought on a serious illness, was dictated by
+penitence and how far by policy will never be known. But urgent
+dangers were closing round the King, which were immediately afterwards
+dissipated in a series of triumphs which he may have thought due to
+miraculous interposition.
+
+Following the track of the pilgrims, we leave the crypt on the south side,
+emerge into the transept, and ascend, along the south choir aisle, by
+steps worn hollow by penitential knees (for it was a kind of _scala
+santa_--a sacred stair) to the Trinity Chapel, the sanctuary of the
+martyr's shrine. Let us try to recall what this was like. It stood in the
+centre of the now vacant space beneath the crescent in the vaulted roof.
+Three steps led up to a platform figured with a kind of mosaic. The lowest
+step, worn by pilgrims' knees, and three of the inlaid "roundles" form
+part of the present pavement. On the platform three arches sustained the
+body of the saint in a gilded and richly wrought coffin. Two of these
+arches, with their columns, were hung with the precious offerings of those
+who had sought or received benefit by the saint's intercession. Through
+the third, suppliants were allowed to pass, that by contact with the
+pillars they might derive some virtue from the relics. The whole was
+enclosed in an elaborate oaken case, which was let down and drawn up by
+ropes and pulleys from above. One of the monks had charge of the
+proceedings--the Mystagogus or Master of the Mysteries, as Erasmus, with a
+touch of mockery, calls him--and when a sufficient concourse had
+assembled he drew up the cover and revealed to the wondering throng all
+the splendour of gold and gems.
+
+Within thirty years of Erasmus's visit every vestige of this
+magnificence was swept away; and so completely were all memorials of
+Becket destroyed that only one representation of the shrine survives.
+This, perhaps, was overlooked, for it is a small panel of stained
+glass, and may be found in the highest group of the central of the
+three thirteenth-century windows on the north side of the Trinity
+Chapel. St. Thomas is mitred and in full canonical vestments, leaning
+from or coming out of his shrine, above a figure lying on a bed or
+couch below. It is a pictorial record of a vision of the saint which
+is related by Benedict, his historian, as having appeared to himself.
+The inscription is _Prodire Feretro_, which fails in grammatical
+construction, but probably is intended to mean _Issuing from the
+Shrine_.
+
+It should be noted that the casket or coffin portrayed elsewhere in
+these windows, is not the great shrine in the Trinity Chapel, but the
+earlier "tumba" at which Henry II did his penance in the crypt. The
+determination of Henry VIII to obliterate everything which could
+minister to the cult was probably due not merely to zeal against
+superstition, but was part of his policy of stamping out the
+resistance of the clergy to common law; for in the history of Becket,
+and in the honour paid to his remains, was the chief support of their
+claim. This throws light on the extraordinary legal process by which,
+more than three hundred years after his death, "Thomas Becket,
+sometime Archbishop of Canterbury", was summoned, tried, and condemned
+for treason, contumacy, and rebellion.
+
+The summons was solemnly read by the shrine, and when, after thirty
+days, no voice or presence had issued from it, the case was formally
+tried at Westminster, sentence pronounced, the bones of the defendant
+were adjudged to be publicly burned, his treasures confiscated to the
+Crown, and his name blotted out of every service-book. Strange as the
+trial of a dead man may seem to us, it was not without precedent. So
+had the dead Wycliffe been cited, and his bones burned. So did Queen
+Mary to the dead Bucer. It is pleasanter to think of the Emperor
+Charles V by the grave of Erasmus. A courtier proposed that he should
+exhume and burn the great scholar "who laid the egg which Luther
+hatched"; the Emperor's fine reply was: "I war not with the dead".
+
+Long before these changes and troubles, when the Chapel of the Shrine
+was the most honoured of the high places in the Cathedral, the Black
+Prince was laid here as the most honoured of its dead; and it is a
+testimony to the tenacious affection of the nation for his memory,
+that no desecrating hand has ever been laid, even in turbulent times,
+on his grave. The armour of the beautiful effigy has lost the gilding
+which once made him a golden knight, but it is fresh and clear in its
+outlines as it was in the fourteenth century. His helm, surcoat,
+gauntlets, shield, and scabbard still hang above him; round his
+resting place is the railing with its six tall iron posts for the
+great candles, which were lit on the anniversaries of his death. What
+tragedies and tumults would have been arrested by his strong hand, had
+he lived, we cannot tell; but a more impressive monument to a more
+beloved memory does not perhaps exist.
+
+A few yards away lies the man who wrested the throne from the Prince's
+son, Richard II, while Canterbury nave was building. Visitors
+sometimes recognize in the portrait-statue of Henry IV, as he lies
+beside his Queen, Joan of Navarre, a curious family likeness to King
+Edward VII, witnessing to the persistence of Plantagenet blood. When
+the vault was opened in 1832 its occupant was found to be in a
+singular state of preservation, with a little simple cross, of two
+twigs tied together, laid upon his breast. The monument is of rare
+artistic merit, as is the chantry close by, which he built for "twey
+preestes" to say masses for his soul.
+
+The next monument eastward of the Black Prince's is Archbishop
+Courtenay's (1396); and beyond this a mean brick mound without
+inscription but not without a history. Here lies Odet de Coligny,
+brother of the great admiral. Though a prince, a cardinal, an
+inquisitor, and a bishop, his sympathies were with the Huguenots, and
+he undertook a mission on their behalf to Queen Elizabeth. In the
+canonical house, formerly known as Master Omer's, at the southeast
+corner of the Precincts, he was poisoned by his servants, whether or
+not by foreign instigation is not known. Those were days when the
+murderer's hand reached far and freely, especially in causes political
+and religious. He was laid here and rudely bricked over, in
+expectation of his removal to France; but the French wars of religion
+left men no leisure to care for their dead. Against the south wall is
+a tomb without inscription and long unidentified. When opened in 1889
+there was found, in full pomp of episcopal vestments, pastoral staff,
+chalice and paten, wearing a ring graven with strange Egyptian
+symbols, Hubert Walter, acclaimed archbishop on the field of Acre and
+afterwards the faithful chancellor who kept the kingdom and raised the
+ransom for Coeur de Lion. Beside him was a collecting box, perhaps
+for Peter's Pence, or for the King's ransom. These relics are kept
+under glass in Henry IV's chantry.
+
+East of Trinity Chapel is the circular space called the Corona, or
+Becket's Crown, either as the head or crown of Becket's church, or, as
+Dr. Cox thinks, because here by the altar to the Trinity was a silver
+bust of Becket containing the fragment of his skull cut off by Richard
+the Breton's sword. The three most famous objects in the Cathedral are
+the site of the shrine, the Black Prince's monument, and the chair of
+St. Augustine; and here is the last of the three. In this seat of
+Purbeck or Bethersden marble have been enthroned from time immemorial
+the Archbishops of Canterbury. If some critics say that it is no older
+than the thirteenth century, others say that it was in existence in
+the sixth century, when Augustine arrived, and that Kentish kings were
+crowned on it. It has always a place in the triple enthronement of an
+Archbishop of Canterbury. He is seated on the throne in the choir as
+Diocesan Bishop, in the chapter house as titular Abbot, and in St.
+Augustine's chair as Primate of All England.
+
+The pilgrims were conducted from Trinity Chapel back to the nave,
+along the south choir aisle, where the steps still show the marks of
+the two iron gates which divided the ascending from the descending
+stream. We, however, will take the north choir aisle, which was
+strictly reserved for monks, clerics, and officials, and find our way
+into the choir. The pavement is still that of Lanfranc or Anselm, for,
+when any part of it is taken up, bits of lead are found which fell
+melted from the roof, in the great fire of 1174. Facing east by the
+archbishop's throne we see the monuments of six archbishops. Nearest
+on our right is Cardinal Kemp, who was with Henry V at Agincourt; then
+Stratford, the opponent of Edward III; and lastly Simon Sudbury, who
+built Westgate and lost his head. Nearest on our left is the gorgeous
+tomb of Chicheley, who, in old age, was stricken with remorse for
+having instigated Henry V's French campaigns in order to distract
+attention from Lollard schemes for confiscating Church property. He
+founded All Souls College, Oxford, to pray for the souls of those who
+fell in the wars, and the Warden still renews, when needed, the
+colour-decoration of his monument. Then Howley, who crowned Queen
+Victoria, and finally Bourchier, who crowned Edward IV, Richard III,
+and Henry VII, and, by wedding the latter to Elizabeth of York,
+terminated the Wars of the Roses.
+
+[Illustration: WESTGATE
+
+(_Page 13_)]
+
+In Canterbury Cathedral have been buried some fifty archbishops, the
+Black Prince, Henry IV, two queens, and many others of royalty or
+distinction. Of the old monuments only about eighteen are left. The
+great fires of 1067 and 1174, the violence of men, and the ravages of
+time have all taken their toll.
+
+Of the architectural history of the Cathedral, deeply interesting as
+it is, little can here be said. It may be summed up as a happy
+alternation of destructive fires and vigorous priors, aided by
+munificent archbishops and master masons of genius. There is no
+history of the first Christian settlement in these islands; but we
+dimly descry a Roman, and on its foundations a Saxon building which
+lasted till the Conquest Then came a fire, and with it Lanfranc's
+opportunity. He had driving power, and in the brief period of seven
+years (1070-7) built a stone Cathedral over the Roman and Saxon ground
+plans, adding a short choir and western towers of which one remained
+till 1834.
+
+Only twenty years after Lanfranc, Anselm, greatly daring, pulled down
+most of his choir, and with his prior, Ernulf, began a slightly wider
+and much longer choir, extending about as far as the present Holy
+Table. This came to be known as "the glorious choir of Conrad", from
+the name of the prior who completed it. Anselm's or Ernulf's work
+still remains as part of the present crypt. In 1174, a hundred years
+later, the year of Henry II's penance at Becket's tomb, the whole
+church was ruined by the most devastating fire in its annals. How
+severe was the blow, both to monks and people, we may learn from
+Gervase, who was an eyewitness and one of the fraternity. The people
+"tore their hair and beat the walls and pavement of the church with
+their heads and hands, blaspheming the Lord and his Saints"; the monks
+"wailed and howled rather than sang their daily and nightly services"
+in the roofless nave.
+
+French William, the designer of the Cathedral at Sens in Normandy, was
+chosen for the restoration; and the mark of his handiwork is plainly
+to be seen in the resemblances between the two churches. Genius
+transforms hindrances into triumphs. French William's difficulty was
+that the side chapels of St. Andrew and St. Anselm, built on the arc
+of the old apse, were too near together to admit of the full width of
+his new and longer choir. He kept the chapels, contracted the choir at
+their nearest points and then expanded it into the Trinity Chapel,
+with the remarkable effect which strikes every observer.
+
+When his work was partly accomplished, and he was on the scaffolding
+to prepare for the turning of the vault, he fell with a mass of timber
+and stone from a height of 50 feet, and was disabled for life. He
+chose for his successor another man of genius, known as English
+William, one of his staff, "small of body, but in many kinds of
+workmanship acute and honest", who added to his master's design the
+great uplift of the floor of the Trinity Chapel and completed that and
+the Corona or Becket's Crown. Since 1185 no substantial alteration has
+been made in the eastern half of the Cathedral.
+
+If the reader desires to know the chief sources of our information
+about the early history of Canterbury Cathedral, the reply is in
+itself a picture of the times. Eadmer was a boy in the convent school
+before the Conquest, and singer or precentor in Lanfranc's choir of
+monks. He also lived through the rule of Anselm.
+
+Gervase was a monk of Christ Church when Becket died in the Martyrdom.
+He witnessed the fire of 1174, the desolation it left behind, and the
+immortal achievements of French William and of his English namesake.
+Eadmer and Gervase have both left us narratives, not umixed with
+monkish legend, but faithful and full of curious information.
+
+It is not easy for us to understand the veneration paid to relics; yet
+from that veneration sprang all the glories of the Cathedral. And when
+we read in these old chronicles, translated from Latin in Willis'
+_Architectural History_, of the desperate, almost agonized labours of
+the monks to save from fire, weather, or dishonour the remains of
+their buried saints, we shall withhold our scorn for their
+superstition, and find less surprising the immense sums paid in the
+Middle Age for the arm or skull of a dead man.
+
+The earlier Saxon archbishops were laid in the ground of St.
+Augustine's Abbey, which thus accumulated a store of sanctity which
+roused the sore jealousy of their Christ Church brethren. Accordingly
+in the eighth century Cuthbert obtained a secret permission from the
+Pope to be buried in the Cathedral. His death was not divulged until
+he was safely interred, and when the monks of St. Augustine's came to
+demand as usual the body of the dead archbishop, they were met with
+derisive shouts, and the brandishing of the Papal decree. Thus Gervase
+records that Cuthbert, "being endowed with great wisdom, procured for
+Christ Church the right of free sepulture".
+
+[Illustration: THE GATEWAY, ST. AUGUSTINE'S ABBEY
+
+(_Page 51_)]
+
+There is at least one "secret chamber" in the Cathedral for the hiding
+away of relics or of treasures. This is the Chapel of St. Gabriel in
+the crypt. The entrance was through a hole which was entirely
+concealed by an outside altar. This chapel was so successfully hidden
+that the monk Gervase was evidently ignorant of its existence in the
+twelfth century; and its roof is covered with very curious painting
+of that date, which the darkness (for there is no window) has kept
+in remarkable preservation. There is also a room, over the Treasury,
+accessible only by a door opening 6 feet above the floor of St.
+Andrew's Chapel, requiring therefore a ladder as means of approach.
+But it was never a really secret chamber, and was probably at one time
+entered by an ordinary stone stairway.
+
+
+
+
+THE MONASTIC BUILDINGS
+
+
+It must be remembered that Canterbury Cathedral was originally the
+church or chapel of the monastery. The people were admitted to the
+nave, but only monks and clergy took any official part in the
+services, or entered the choir, which was the sanctuary of the
+Brotherhood. Indeed the entire Precincts belonged to them; and though
+they allowed the ground near the Christ Church Gate to be used as a
+general churchyard, or "exterior cemetery", entrance to the inner
+Precincts was only by permission or invitation. The present boundary
+of this monkish domain on the south and east is the old fortified wall
+of the city, but formerly the monastery had an interior wall of its
+own, running parallel to it, and leaving a space or lane about 14 feet
+wide, for the carrying of munitions and provisions to the defenders of
+the outer wall, and of materials for its repair.
+
+The unique remnant of this lane is known as Quenengate or Queeningate
+Lane, and if we can borrow a canon's key and pass through the Norman
+archway of the Bowling Green, near the east end of the Cathedral, we
+may see not only Queeningate Lane but also the postern door in the
+outer wall through which Queen Bertha, in the sixth century, went to
+her daily prayer at St. Martin's. Nay, as we open that door we are
+face to face with the turreted fourteenth-century gateway of St.
+Augustine's, founded by and named after the great man, and once
+ranking second only to Subiaco among the Benedictine monasteries of
+Europe. Time was when St. Augustine's looked down upon Christ Church,
+as upon a little brother who should not presume. When, at the
+invitation of Edward I, Archbishop Peckham went to the Abbey to dine,
+he was refused admission, unless he would lower his cross or crozier
+on entering. He declined this indignity, and was absent from the royal
+dinner-party. Ethelbert's Tower, a splendid remnant of the Norman
+abbey church, stood till 1822, when it was battered down by the
+Philistines to provide cheap building material and make room for a
+tea-garden. In Bede's time this church had a tomb inscribed: "Here
+resteth the Lord Augustine, first Archbishop of Canterbury A.D. 605".
+To share the sanctity of a spot so consecrated, saints, nobles, and
+kings were brought hither on their last journey. Cuthbert turned the
+tide when he so cunningly gained the right of sepulture for Christ
+Church, and eventually, as we know, Becket's shrine quite eclipsed St.
+Augustine's. After the dissolution the abbey became for a time a
+royal lodge, and Queen Elizabeth and the First and Second Charles have
+occupied the guest-chamber over the gateway.
+
+Returning to the Precincts, we are again reminded that the makers of
+Canterbury were the pilgrims and the monks. Of the three houses on our
+right, the first is Master Omer's, the guest-house for pilgrims where
+Odet de Coligny was murdered; the second incorporates part of the
+infirmary; the third was its frater and kitchen; while the long arcade
+of ruins, still reddened with the fire of 700 years ago, and
+stretching along the north side of the choir to the Dark Entry, was
+the monks' hospital.
+
+So vast an infirmary as this, with its chapel at one end and cloister
+at the other, for a community of 100 to 150 monks, seems at first
+unaccountable. This and some other things we shall understand better
+when we have walked through the infirmary cloister, and along
+Lanfranc's vaulted passage to the great or main Cloister of the
+convent. This was the centre of the whole monastic life, in which the
+monks spent the greater part of the day, and from which doors gave
+access to every part of the building, dining hall or frater,
+dormitories, cellarer's stores and lodging, deportum or recreation
+room, chapter house for business and discipline, Cathedral choir
+for worship, infirmary for the sick or weary. Here they read and
+wrote, here they learned and taught, here were chronicles completed,
+missals illuminated, and various tasks of hand or head performed under
+the direction of the superiors.
+
+[Illustration: GATEWAY OF ST. JOHN'S HOSPITAL
+
+(_Page 56_)]
+
+Yet with all its splendour of traceried arch it is a comfortless
+place. Not until a few years before the fall of the monastery was it
+glazed even on one side. In the long summers and hot sunshine of
+Italy, where the Benedictine order took its rise, it was natural
+enough to build for coolness and air; hence not only the open alleys
+of the cloister, but also its situation on the north side of the
+church. It is possible that at Canterbury there was some difficulty
+about space on the south side; certainly in a chilly climate open
+cloisters hidden from the sun by a mountain of masonry must have
+inflicted much hardship on the monks, and added to the austerities of
+their ascetic life. They were a delicate and short-lived race, usually
+failing to attain forty years of age, and compelled by statute to
+spend three days of each month in the infirmary, independently of
+occasional recourse thither for ailments and for being bled, which was
+regarded as periodically necessary. Ordericus Vitalis, a monkish
+historian living in Normandy, says several times in his chronicle:
+"The winter has now come, and my fingers are so numbed by the cold
+that I can write no more till the spring". Visiting members of other
+convents were not asked to share the full discipline, but were
+hospitably lodged in the infirmary as the most comfortable quarters.
+Moreover, epidemics occurred, as in 1348, the year of the Black Death,
+when Archbishop Bradwardine died of the Plague within a few weeks of
+his installation, and half the nation perished. So the infirmary was
+probably not too large after all. It must not be forgotten that
+silence was strictly enjoined in the Cloister, so that to the agonies
+of cold hands and feet was added the privation, with which we cannot
+fail to sympathize, of being unable to talk about the inclemency of
+the weather.
+
+In the cloister garth are two graves perhaps as well worth visiting as
+ever Becket's was, though no miracles have yet occurred at them. They
+are those of Archbishop Temple and Dean Farrar.
+
+If we retrace our way along Lanfranc's gloomy passage to the infirmary
+cloister, where guests and invalid brethren took the air, and turn to
+the left along the Dark Entry, by the ruins of the Lord Prior's
+Lodging and Chequer House or Office, we emerge into the Green Court.
+Here servants had their quarters, and at the great gate of the convent
+received guests and pilgrims. Those of distinction they conducted to
+Master Omer's, those of middle rank to Chillenden Chambers or the
+vanished New Lodging; the common wayfarers ascended that lovely and
+unique Norman staircase to the Great North Hall. These had to bring
+their own bedding and cooking utensils, like the steerage passengers
+in an emigrant ship; and their hall was kitchen, parlour, and bedroom
+in one, so that its superb approach was no measure of the quality of
+its accommodation. The cowl or habit of a monk would rarely be seen in
+the Green Court. It belonged too much to the outside world and the
+secular life.
+
+Before we ourselves return to that outside world let us turn
+southwards for a moment for a view that we shall not easily forget.
+Below the immense mass and broken outlines of the church, and flanked
+by ruins of cloister and dormitory, we see across a little breadth of
+lawn the picturesque octagonal tower called the Baptistery. It was
+really a monks' lavatory, and the centre of the water supply. For,
+strange as it may be to our conceited modern ears, the monks had from
+the twelfth century an elaborate system of waterworks, and probably
+owed to this their comparatively small mortality during the
+visitations of plague. There still exists a twelfth-century plan
+showing the various pipes, tanks, and basins, for drinking, washing,
+or cooking. So the little octagonal tower, as so often happens, was
+useful as well as beautiful. And if the chart which indicates the path
+of every pipe and runnel, and the place of every layer for personal
+ablution, fails to indicate any laundry for the washing of
+clothes--why, the monks wore all-wool garments, and did not think
+fastidiousness a virtue. Let us hope for the best.
+
+So we pass the Convent Gate and cross the Mintyard. This is now a
+"quad" of the King's School, but archbishops till Cranmer exercised
+here their right of coinage. From the Mintyard we step back into a
+rather squalid street of a modern world. But the house just opposite
+is old enough to have housed pilgrims, and two or three hundred yards
+along Northgate Street, to our right, is the fifteenth-century
+timbered archway of St. John's Hospital, shown in our illustration.
+St. John's was founded before the days of the pilgrims as a nook of
+safety and peace for the aged poor, and this it still remains. How
+many wearied souls have bidden here their long farewell to Canterbury!
+We, too, will bid our farewell, less solemn, and not without hope of
+return, but still with regret. If these pages and pictures enable you,
+reader, to revisit in spirit the place of your pilgrimage, they will
+have accomplished their end.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Beautiful England
+
+
+BATH AND WELLS
+BOURNEMOUTH AND CHRISTCHURCH
+CAMBRIDGE
+CANTERBURY
+CHESTER AND THE DEE
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+DARTMOOR
+DICKENS-LAND
+THE DUKERIES
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+EXETER
+FOLKESTONE AND DOVER
+HAMPTON COURT
+HASTINGS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+HEREFORD AND THE WYE
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT
+THE NEW FOREST
+NORWICH AND THE BROADS
+OXFORD
+THE PEAK DISTRICT
+RIPON AND HARROGATE
+SCARBOROUGH
+SHAKESPEARE-LAND
+SWANAGE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+THE THAMES
+WARWICK AND LEAMINGTON
+THE HEART OF WESSEX
+WINCHESTER
+WINDSOR CASTLE
+YORK
+
+
+LONDON
+
+THE HEART OF LONDON
+THROUGH LONDON'S HIGHWAYS
+IN LONDON'S BY-WAYS
+RAMBLES IN GREATER LONDON
+
+
+
+Beautiful Scotland
+
+
+EDINBURGH
+THE SHORES OF FIFE
+THE SCOTT COUNTRY
+LOCH LOMOND, LOCH KATRINE,
+  AND THE TROSSACHS
+
+
+
+Beautiful Ireland
+
+
+CONNAUGHT
+LEINSTER
+MUNSTER
+ULSTER
+
+
+
+Beautiful Switzerland
+
+
+CHAMONIX
+LAUSANNE
+LUCERNE
+VILLARS AND CHAMPERY
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BLACKIE & SON LTD., 50 OLD BAILEY, LONDON, AND 17 STANHOPE STREET,
+GLASGOW BLACKIE & SON (INDIA) LTD. BOMBAY; BLACKIE & SON (CANADA)
+LTD., TORONTO
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Canterbury, by Canon Danks
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Canterbury, by Canon Danks
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Canterbury
+
+Author: Canon Danks
+
+Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust
+
+Release Date: February 15, 2011 [EBook #35276]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANTERBURY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sankar Viswanathan, Juliet Sutherland, and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="500" height="705" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="Frontispiece" id="Frontispiece"></a>
+<img src="images/image_001.jpg" width="500" height="741" alt="THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS
+
+Frontispiece" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS
+(<a href="#Page_12">Page 12</a>)</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<h1>CANTERBURY</h1>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h2>DESCRIBED BY CANON DANKS</h2>
+<h2>PICTURED BY E. W. HASLEHUST</h2>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/seal.jpg" width="300" height="462" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>BLACKIE &amp; SON LIMITED</h3>
+<h4>LONDON AND GLASGOW</h4>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+
+
+<table  summary="List of Illustrations">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td><td class="tocpg f1">Facing Page</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Frontispiece">The Canterbury Weavers</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><i><a href="#Frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></i></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_1">St. Nicholas, Harbledown</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_2">Canterbury from the Stour</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_3">The Greyfriars' House</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_4">Mercery Lane</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_5">Canterbury Cathedral from Christ Church Gate</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_6">Christ Church Gate, Entrance to Cathedral Precincts</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_7">Fordwich</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_8">St. Martin's Church</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_9">Westgate</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_10">The Gateway, St. Augustine's Abbey</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pic_11">Gateway of St. John's Hospital</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;">
+<img src="images/image_002.jpg" width="700" height="355" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>THE CITY</h2>
+
+
+<p>This little essay on a great subject is neither a guidebook nor a
+history, though it may, for many, be enough, for their purpose, of
+both. With its illustrations of ancient and famous scenes it is, let
+us say, a keepsake or memorial for some of the hundred thousand
+pilgrims who still annually visit Canterbury, and fall under the spell
+of its enchantments. It may recall to them in distant homes, some of
+them overseas, the thrill with which they first beheld the mother-city
+of English Christianity, the great church, inwoven with so much of
+English history, which in the Middle Ages contained one of the most
+venerated and far-sought shrines in Europe.</p>
+
+<p>There are certainly not more than one or two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> cities in the kingdom
+which rival Canterbury in interest, or bring back to us more vividly
+"the days that are no more". Here is the work of pre-historic man in
+the Dane John (variant of Donjon or stronghold) and long earthen
+rampart which guarded the ford of the Stour. Here are the bastions and
+parapet of the city wall, with which the soldiers of the Middle Ages
+faced and fortified the British earthwork. Here is Saxon building with
+Roman materials, as in the churches of St. Pancras and St. Martin,
+where Roman bricks abound, and Roman columns, perhaps of some
+forgotten heathen temple, are not wanting. In the Roman cemeteries
+outside the walls have been found bracelets, pins, mirrors,
+horse-bits, coins, even rouge-pots. Hither converged the Roman roads
+from the military ports of Richborough, Dover, and Lympne (now high
+and dry). Along these roads for some four hundred years tramped the
+Roman legionaries under their centurions, entering and leaving the
+city respectively by the streets now known as Burgate, Watling Street,
+and Wincheap. Here dwelt, in the sixth century, Queen Bertha,
+foster-mother of English Christianity, with her heathen husband
+Ethelbert, King of Kent; and here, in the new era which dated from the
+arrival of Augustine's monkish procession with its silver cross and
+painted Christ (as told once for all by Dean Stanley), these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> three
+laboured at that "building without hands" of which the Cathedral is an
+outward type and embodiment. Hither converged in medi&aelig;val times the
+Pilgrims' Ways, still partly traceable on the ordnance map, from
+London, as in Chaucer's Tales, from Southampton, and from Sandwich.</p>
+
+<p>On July 7, the feast of the Translation of Becket's bones from the
+Crypt to the Trinity Chapel, and especially at the Great Pardons or
+Jubilees of the Feast every fifty years, from 1220 to 1520, these ways
+were crowded with pilgrims, English or foreign, on foot or on
+horseback, sick or whole, sad or merry, intent on paying homage and
+receiving a blessing, above all of winning the promised plenary
+indulgence at the miracle-working shrine. From the offerings of these
+pilgrims came in great measure the huge sums of money which enabled
+the monks to extend and exalt their church to its present
+magnificence. In 1220, the first of the Great Pardons, it has been
+estimated that 100,000 pilgrims offered &pound;20,000 of our money; and this
+did not include the stream of worshippers and gifts that flowed on
+other days of the year. If we add to these "devotions of the people"
+the splendid generosity of the monks and clergy, we begin to
+understand how the Cathedral was paid for. Lanfranc gave the whole
+revenues of the manor of East Peckham, bestowed on him by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> William the
+Conqueror; and he was but the first of a series of munificent
+archbishops.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_1" id="Pic_1"></a>
+<img src="images/image_003.jpg" width="800" height="546" alt="ST. NICHOLAS, HARBLEDOWN"  />
+<span class="caption">ST. NICHOLAS, HARBLEDOWN
+(<a href="#Page_10">Page 10</a>)</span></div>
+
+<p>It is one of the curiosities of history, though by no means without
+parallel, that these lavish gifts and this energy of costly building
+continued up to the very edge of doom. The great central tower, the
+Angel Steeple or Bell Harry, was not finished till 1490; Christ Church
+Gatehouse not till 1517; Henry VIII himself made offerings at the
+shrine in 1520. In 1538 he gave orders to plunder the shrine and burn
+Becket's bones, and in 1540 the monastery was dissolved.</p>
+
+<p>It may be as well here to give some idea of the value of the spoil.
+"The official return of the actual gold of the shrine was 4994-3/4
+oz., the gilt plate weighed 4425 oz., the parcel gilt 840 oz., and the
+plain silver 5286 oz." But Erasmus, who visited Canterbury in 1513,
+writes: "The least valuable portion was gold; every part glistened,
+shone, and sparkled with rare and very large jewels, some of them
+exceeding the size of a goose's egg.... The principal of them were
+offerings sent by sovereign princes." As, for instance, the golden cup
+presented by Louis VII of France in 1179, and the Royal Jewel of
+France, an immense ruby or carbuncle, given by the same Prince, which
+afterwards figured in a great ring on Henry's portentous thumb, and
+(we are rather<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> surprised to learn) in the necklace of his Roman
+Catholic daughter Mary. There were crucifixes, statuettes, and
+ornaments of precious metal; there were innumerable gems, so that the
+last visitor at the shrine, in the very year of its destruction,
+declared "that if she had not seen it, all the men in the world could
+never a' made her to believe it".</p>
+
+<p>We are scarcely surprised, therefore, to hear of the two large chests
+with which seven or eight men staggered out of the church, or of the
+twenty-six cartloads of vestments, plate, and other Cathedral property
+which were dispatched to London. The total value of Henry's
+confiscations from this church and priory is thought to have been not
+less than three million pounds of our money. For more than three
+hundred years there had been, outside Rome, no more famous place of
+pilgrimage, no more wonderful treasury of gifts and relics. One can
+guess the thoughts of the "sovereign princes" and other devout donors,
+when their costly offerings and those of their ancestors were poured
+pell-mell into the gaping coffers of the English king. It is less easy
+to guess the thoughts of the Canterbury citizens and other English
+folk who looked on with scarcely a protest. Some probably were cowed,
+and some sympathetic. Perhaps a dim consciousness was waking in the
+minds of the people, that monasticism and relic-worship had outlived<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>
+their day of service, and that a new age was at hand. Even under Queen
+Mary no attempt was made to replace the shrine or renew the
+pilgrimages.</p>
+
+<p>Let us, however, be as pilgrims ourselves&mdash;Chaucer's if you will&mdash;and
+enter the city along their ancient well-trodden way from the Tabard
+Inn at Southwark. Only we will start a short mile and a half from
+Canterbury at the Leper Hospital of Harbledown. It is now a group of
+modern almshouses, but still has its prior and sub-prior, as in the
+days when the lepers lived under the shadow of Lanfranc's Church of
+St. Nicholas, which they were forbidden to enter. This church and the
+square-timbered entrance by the porter's lodge are shown in our
+illustration.</p>
+
+<p>An aged bedesman, on the steps to this garden porch, would greet the
+travellers in the road with a shower of sprinkled holy water, and hold
+out to be kissed by them a crystal set in the upper leather of the
+martyred Becket's shoe. The upper leather is gone, perhaps kissed
+away, but the crystal is still shown in the hospital, set in an old
+bowl of maple-wood. Erasmus and Colet came here in 1513, and were
+invited to do as others. They were scholars and thinkers, full of the
+new learning, and therefore scornful of the sanctity of slippers and
+bones. They declined&mdash;Colet rather crossly; Erasmus (tolerant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> soul)
+with a humorous twinkle and a kindly coin for the bedesman's box which
+is still to be seen within.</p>
+
+<p>A few steps onward up the steep little Harbledown Hill and we have a
+view of Canterbury Cathedral across the River Stour&mdash;a view which has
+delighted the eye and heart of many pilgrims, whether ancient or
+modern. Nearly a mile downhill and we come to St. Dunstan's Church in
+the environs of Canterbury. Here in a vault is the head of a nobler
+martyr than Becket&mdash;of a man with all Becket's constancy and faith,
+with more than Becket's intellect, and without his haughty spirit and
+violent temper. All the world knows how the head of Sir Thomas More,
+one of the best and wisest of Englishmen, was set on London Bridge as
+the head of a traitor, and how, after fourteen days of this ignominy,
+it secretly passed into the possession of his daughter, Margaret
+Roper. It is less generally known that she finally placed it in the
+Roper vault in St. Dunstan's.</p>
+
+<p>On the opposite side of the road, a little nearer the town, is the old
+brick archway which was once the approach to Margaret Roper's house,
+and beneath which father and daughter, who loved each other dearly,
+must often have passed together.</p>
+
+<p>We have all been with David Copperfield and his aunt to Mr.
+Wickfield's house in Canterbury&mdash;"A<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> very old house bulging out over
+the road; a house with long, low lattice windows bulging out still
+farther, and beams with carved heads on the ends bulging out too; so
+that I fancied that the whole house was leaning forward, trying to see
+who was passing on the pavement below".</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_2" id="Pic_2"></a>
+<img src="images/image_004.jpg" width="800" height="546" alt="CANTERBURY FROM THE STOUR" />
+<span class="caption">CANTERBURY FROM THE STOUR
+
+<a href="#Page_11">(Page 11)</a></span></div>
+
+<p>Nowhere in the country will you find so many of these old houses; some
+of them in part dating back to the fourteenth century; and Dickens
+felt the charm of them. Many are now hidden behind ugly modern fronts,
+but many are yet unspoiled. Doubtless some of these in St. Dunstan's
+Street took in belated pilgrims who arrived after curfew and the
+shutting of the city gate.</p>
+
+<p>Just outside Westgate is the old Falstaff Inn, with its sign suspended
+from a remarkable bracket of fifteenth-century ironwork. This reminds
+us that before the era of coal mining in the north, Kentish men were
+craftsmen in iron, obtaining unlimited fuel from the forest of the
+Weald. Doubtless there were Kentish pikes and blades, Kentish helmets
+and hauberks, at Cressy and Poitiers, at Agincourt, in the Wars of the
+Roses, and at Flodden. While we are looking at old houses let us pass
+through Westgate (we will return in a moment) and visit the Canterbury
+Weavers, shown in our illustration. It rises sheer from the water, and
+its windows "bulge"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> over the water, where the river crosses the
+street near Eastbridge Hospital. It is, in spite of repairs and
+restorations, a fifteenth-century building, and, as viewed from the
+bridge, not less picturesque than a nook of Bruges or Ghent.</p>
+
+<p>Eastbridge Hospital, just opposite, belongs to the thirteenth and
+fourteenth centuries, but is not a specimen of domestic architecture.
+It is a charitable foundation which survived Tudor confiscations
+through the intercession of Cranmer, and still shelters its aged poor.
+Somewhat farther, on the same side, is No. 37, a French silk-weaver's
+house, built in the fifteenth century for one of the refugees from
+religious persecution. It is almost unchanged: the ground floor is the
+shop, the first floor is for the family and the loom, and the story
+above has its door for receiving the bales of silk hauled up from the
+street.</p>
+
+<p>We must not wander farther without turning to look at Westgate, the
+last remaining of Canterbury's seven city gates and the best thing of
+its kind in the kingdom. With its round flanking towers and its
+massive portal, it takes us back in a moment to the fourteenth
+century, and makes us wonder and sigh that citizens could have had the
+heart to destroy its fellows. For even as late as the beginning of the
+nineteenth century the walls and gates of the ancient town were almost
+intact. With grim amusement, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>not unmixed with disgust, we recall the
+story that once the Town Council was equally divided on the
+proposition that it should be pulled down to admit the huge caravans
+of Wombwell's Wild Beast Show. It was saved only by the casting vote
+of the Mayor, to whose common sense it occurred to make a way round
+it. And that Mayor, not the least of Canterbury's worthies, is not
+even yet commemorated by&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i8">"Colossal bust<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Or column trophied for triumphal show".<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>There was an earlier Norman gateway here with, oddly as it seems to
+us, the Church of the Holy Cross on the top of it. In 1380 Archbishop
+Simon Sudbury built the present structure and found ground space
+beside it for the church. And thereby hangs a tale. Sudbury was not
+only a munificent builder, but a man of vigorous mind, wise before his
+time. He overtook a company of pilgrims nearing this gate, and spoke
+to them very plainly on the matter of relics and pilgrimages,
+declaring that no Pope or plenary indulgence could avail without the
+contrite heart and the changed life. This was, be it remembered, 150
+years before the Reformation, and not even from a bishop could such a
+doctrine be received. The fury of the crowd found voice in the curse
+flung<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> then and there upon the preacher by one of the Kentish gentry:
+"My Lord Bishop, for this act of yours, stirring the people to
+sedition against St. Thomas, I stake the salvation of my soul that you
+will close your life by a most terrible death". "From the beginning of
+the world", adds the Chronicler, "it never has been heard that anyone
+ever injured the Cathedral of Canterbury and was not punished by the
+Lord." Eleven years later, for his share in the hated Poll-tax, the
+Archbishop was dragged out of the Tower of London by the rebels under
+Wat Tyler and beheaded. His body was buried in the choir of the
+Cathedral, and when uncovered accidentally was found to have a leaden
+ball in the place of the head, which is still preserved at his native
+Sudbury.</p>
+
+<p>From Westgate the main street, under as many <i>aliases</i> as a hardened
+criminal, starting as St. Peter's Street, continuing as High Street,
+Parade, and St. George's Street, runs the whole length of the city,
+with quaint and curious dwellings on either hand. If we were real
+pilgrims, and had walked or ridden all the way from London, we should
+make at once for "The Chequers of the Hope" mentioned in the
+supplementary Canterbury Tale. It is only a few hundred yards away,
+where Mercery Lane turns off to the left, and has, or had, its
+dormitory of a hundred beds. Alas! it was burned down in 1865, and we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>
+shall recognize it only by a modern carving of the Black Prince's
+crest&mdash;the leopard with protruding tongue&mdash;on the stone corner of the
+house where the two streets meet.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Pic_3" id="Pic_3"></a>
+<img src="images/image_005.jpg" width="600" height="867" alt="THE GREYFRIARS&#39; HOUSE" />
+<span class="caption">THE GREYFRIARS&#39; HOUSE
+
+<a href="#Page_18">(Page 16)</a></span></div>
+
+
+<p>As, however, we are but amateur pilgrims, and not very tired, we will
+loiter about the city. Let us ask Mr. Pierce's permission to trespass
+in his Franciscan Gardens in Stour Street, near the Post Office. For
+there we shall find, neglected and decayed, but still beautiful with a
+sad and ruined beauty, the last monument of the Greyfriars or
+Franciscans, once the most popular of the monastic orders. It is a
+little house which occupies no ground, for it is built on arches over
+a branch of the Stour, and its slender supporting pillars rise from
+the middle of the river bed. As we consider it, we may remember the
+story of Elizabeth Barton "The Holy Maid of Kent", the devout,
+visionary, hysterical girl, promoted from a kitchen to a nunnery, who,
+amongst other and harmless or edifying revelations, felt bidden to
+denounce the King's divorce from Katherine, and was taken, or bravely
+went, to Henry to tell him so.</p>
+
+<p>The poor creature was executed at Tyburn with some six of her
+teachers, confessors, and abettors, amongst them the warden and one of
+the brethren of Greyfriars, who must often have gone in and out of
+this battered doorway. Let us add, to the credit of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> luckless Anne
+Boleyn, that she alone of all concerned had the grace to intercede
+with her royal tiger on the girl's behalf. There is a perhaps more
+attractive memory clinging to the place. In the seventeenth century
+here, for a time, lived Richard Lovelace, the handsomest man of his
+time&mdash;the Royalist poet who wrote two of the best songs in the
+language, the gay cavalier who died in want and despair because his
+lady-love, on his reported death, married another man. He may have
+written "Going to the Wars" in this very house&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"I could not love thee, dear, so much<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Loved I not honour more".<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But "To Althea"&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Stone walls do not a prison make,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nor iron bars a cage",<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>he wrote while imprisoned by the House of Commons for presenting a
+Kentish Petition on behalf of King Charles.</p>
+
+<p>While we are thinking of poets, and their not infrequent tendency (in
+the past) to a bad end, we may as well walk up High Street. Various
+epochs and ages look down upon us on either side, though too often
+through modern windows. Near the top, on the right-hand side, we shall
+find a very old house <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>with a very new front, and the business label
+of Achille Serre. This is the birthplace of Christopher Marlowe, one
+of the nest of Elizabethan singing-birds&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"With mouth of gold, and morning in his eyes",<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>who, perhaps, had a hand in Shakespeare's <i>Henry VI</i>. He was born in
+the same year as Shakespeare, and, in spite of a reckless life and
+early death, came nearer to him in power than any other dramatist of
+the day. He was killed in a tavern brawl before he was thirty, but
+found time to write immortal things, amongst them "The Passionate
+Pilgrim":</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Come live with me and be my love",<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>a quite other sort of pilgrim than those who sought Becket's shrine.</p>
+
+<p>It is said that he was an "atheist", and that the tavern dagger was
+just in time to save him from imminent risk of stake and faggot. This
+naturally leads us from his birthplace, along St. George's Terrace,
+which is really the old earthwork faced with medi&aelig;val stone, to the
+spot where atheists, heretics, traitors, and witches used to meet
+their fate. This is the Dane John already mentioned as a pre-historic
+mound. Dr. Cox, in his volume on Canterbury in the "Ancient Cities"
+series, gives the following extract from the city accounts touching
+the death on the Dane John<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> of one John Stone, an Austin friar, who
+denied that the Sovereign was Supreme Head of the Church:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Paid for half a tonne of tymber to make a payre of Gallaces
+to hang Fryer Stone. For a Carpenter for making the same
+Gallaces and the dray. For a labourer who digged the holes.
+To iiij men who holp set up the Gallaces. For drynk to them.
+For carriage of tymber from Stablegate to the Dongeon. For
+ij men that sett the Ketyl and parboyled hym. To ij men that
+caryed his quarters to the gate and set them up. For a
+halter to hang hym. For two halfpenny halters. For Sandwich
+cord. For Strawe. To the woman that scowred the Ketyll. To
+hym that dyd execucion iiijs viijd."</p></div>
+
+<p>Friar Stone, it is to be feared, is only one of a long procession of
+tortured ghosts who might meet us where the children play on the Dane
+John. But it was not always the place of execution, it came to be a
+coign of vantage from which the orthodox (for the time being) could
+comfortably view, not without lunch-baskets, what went on in Martyr's
+Field, now marked with an obelisk a little to the south-west of the
+mound. Here were forty, men, women, and children, "brent" or burnt at
+the stake in the reign of Queen Mary for asserting what Friar Stone
+denied. Their names are carved in granite on the spot where they died,
+and the motto on the monument is: "Lest We Forget".</p>
+
+<p>From the Dane John we may return along the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> earthen rampart by the
+city wall to St. George's Street, and ask our way to St. Martin's,
+believed by competent enquirers to be the oldest church not only in
+England, but in Europe. It certainly existed in the sixth century,
+when Queen Bertha came to its services through the postern still known
+as Quenengate. Bede, the father of English history and the most
+learned man of the seventh century, says that there was a Christian
+church here during the Roman occupation. As the Romans left in 410,
+this gives a record of fifteen centuries of worship on this site. Here
+King Ethelbert was baptized by Augustine, and a representation of this
+event graven on an ancient seal gives a font much resembling the one
+still in use.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Pic_4" id="Pic_4"></a>
+<img src="images/image_006.jpg" width="600" height="873" alt="MERCERY LANE" />
+<span class="caption">MERCERY LANE
+
+<a href="#Page_21">(Page 21)</a></span></div>
+
+
+<p>The walls, of course, have been patched and repaired many times, but
+are, especially in the chancel, full of Roman bricks and Saxon
+workmanship. There are indications that some of the courses were
+actually laid by Roman hands; and, if this be so, imagination may
+carry us back far earlier than Augustine, to the legend that Joseph of
+Arimathea brought the Gospel to Britain within a generation of the
+death of Our Lord.</p>
+
+<p>On our way back to the town, if we step inside the Infirmary grounds,
+we shall see the ruins of St. Pancras, built, it is said, by Augustine
+on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> foundations of an "Idol-temple" where Ethelbert worshipped
+before his conversion. Roman bricks abound, Roman pillars are built
+into the wall, and there are still the remains of an altar in a tiny
+chapel where probably Augustine officiated.</p>
+
+<p>Now we may return to the "Chequers of the Hope", but not to its
+dormitory of a hundred beds. There is a fine frankness, far removed
+from modern municipal ambition, in the names of these old streets.
+Mercery Lane, Butchery Lane, Wincheap (Wine Market), and Beer-Cart
+Lane tell their own story. As we look down narrow, crooked Mercery
+Lane, with its overhanging fronts, struggling to survive
+"improvements", we not only recognize "the last enchantments of the
+Middle Age", but we ask what kind of mercery used to stock the stalls
+under the arcades which once sheltered the sidewalks? Chiefly, no
+doubt, cheap memorials or "signs" of the accomplished pilgrimage; the
+little leaden bottles or "ampulles", containing water from the well
+near Becket's tomb in the crypt, and the infinitesimal tincture
+therein of the martyr's blood; also leaden brooches representing his
+mitred head. "These signs", says Dean Stanley, "they fastened on their
+hats or caps, or hung from their necks, and thus were henceforth
+distinguished. As the pilgrims from Compostella brought home the
+scallop-shells which <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>still lie on the seashores of Gallicia&mdash;as the
+'Palmers' from Palestine brought the palm-branches still given at the
+Easter Pilgrimage&mdash;as the 'roamers' from Rome brought models of St.
+Peter's keys, or a 'Vernicle'&mdash;that is a pattern of Veronica's
+handkerchief&mdash;sewed on their caps&mdash;so the Canterbury Pilgrim had his
+hat thickset with a 'hundred ampulles' or with leaden brooches. Many
+of these are said to have been found in the beds of the Stour and the
+Thames, dropped as the vast concourse departed from Canterbury or
+reached London."</p>
+
+<p>What processions, triumphal or funereal, have passed along Mercery
+Lane and crossed the little open space before the gateway to the
+Precincts! Two French kings, and nearly every English sovereign till
+Queen Anne, have been here. Louis VII of France as a pilgrim, John of
+France as the captive of the Black Prince, Henry II on his bitter
+pilgrimage of penance in 1174; Richard C&oelig;ur de Lion with his
+captive, William the Lion of Scotland, in 1189; Henry III with the
+Magna Carta Archbishop Stephen Langton at the Great Pardon of 1220.
+Here before the Cathedral gate halted for a moment the weeping
+cavalcade when they buried the Black Prince, in 1376&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"To the noise of the mourning of a mighty nation,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Mourning when its leaders fall".<br /></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></div></div>
+
+<p>No man bearing weapons was admitted to the Precincts after the murder
+of Becket; therefore the two emblematic riders who had accompanied the
+bier from Westgate, "one bearing the Prince's arms of England and
+France, the other the ostrich feathers&mdash;one to represent the Prince in
+his splendid suite as he rode in war, the other to represent him in
+black as he rode to tournaments"&mdash;had here to fall out of rank. Here
+were borne to their grave Henry IV and his Queen Joan of Navarre. Dean
+Stanley remarks that Henry IV as a child of ten was perhaps present as
+a mourner at the Black Prince's funeral, unknowing that he should
+overthrow the Prince's son Richard II and finally rest by the famous
+warrior's side.</p>
+
+<p>The devout but incapable and unfortunate Henry VI was at Canterbury
+eleven times, and more than once as a pilgrim. As a pilgrim, in
+humblest guise, he was here after his final defeat at Tewkesbury, his
+Queen in captivity, his son dead on the field "stabbed by the Yorkist
+Lords after Edward (the Fourth) had met his cry for mercy with a
+buffet from his gauntlet". Henry himself went hence to die in the
+Tower, and so end the hopes of the House of Lancaster.</p>
+
+<p>The little open space between Mercery Lane and the Precincts gatehouse
+has seen many strange doings<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> which we cannot record. In the
+thirteenth century Canterbury was requisitioned for a contingent of
+Edward I's Welsh invasion, and the monks refused to bear their share
+of the expense. This led to a furious dispute with the citizens, an
+embittered kind of "Town and Gown". A trench was dug before the gate
+to prevent ingress and egress of men or victuals, and the brethren
+appear to have been starved out. In the fifteenth century Edward IV
+hanged the Mayor and some of his friends here for complicity in
+treason.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_5" id="Pic_5"></a>
+<img src="images/image_007.jpg" width="800" height="540" alt="CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM CHRIST CHURCH GATE" />
+<span class="caption">CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM CHRIST CHURCH GATE
+
+<a href="#Page_24">(Page 24)</a></span></div>
+
+<p>But these "old, unhappy far-off things" were before the existence of
+the present beautiful Perpendicular gatehouse, depicted in our
+illustration. Its Norman predecessor was still standing, lower,
+plainer, grimmer, like most Norman buildings. Prior Goldston did not
+finish this one till 1517. In 1520, when its carvings were fresh and
+the stone bright in the sunshine, and the great statue of Our Lord
+looked down from over the archway, and the octagonal side-turrets,
+like those of St. Augustine's, were not within three hundred years of
+being pulled down that bank-clerks might see the Cathedral clock from
+the other end of Mercery Lane&mdash;then there came to the last of the
+Great Pardons, with trumpetings and gorgeous retinue, two great kings
+riding under one canopy. One was Henry VIII and the other the
+mightiest monarch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>  in Christendom, Charles V the Emperor of Germany,
+Spain, and the Netherlands, President of the Diet which tried to
+murder Luther, as the Council of Constance had murdered Huss; but a
+far better man than Henry, and uncle of Henry's Queen, Katherine.
+Before them rode Cardinal Wolsey, and there were Spanish Grandees, and
+English Nobles, and Queen Katherine herself. "The streets", says Dr.
+Cox, "were lined with priests and clerks from all the parishes within
+twenty miles of the city, with censers, crosses, surplices, and copes
+of the richest sort. At the great west doors of the church (still
+opened only for royalties and archbishops) they were met by the
+Archbishop, and after saying their devotions they proceeded to
+Wareham's Palace. On one evening of that week Wareham gave a great
+ball in the hall of the Palace, when the Emperor danced with the then
+Queen of England, and Henry with the Queen of Aragon, the Emperor's
+mother."</p>
+
+<p>Henry, as we know, had a taste for cloth of gold, and the affair must
+have been sufficiently sumptuous. This was perhaps the last of the
+great pageants.</p>
+
+<p>Charles I came here with his fifteen-year-old bride; Charles II was
+gracious at considerable expense to the citizens, and brought as his
+Archbishop the faithful Juxon, who had been chaplain on the fatal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> day
+at Whitehall and had received the mystic word "Remember"; Elizabeth in
+her haughty way was "exceeding magnifical" at the charges of
+Archbishop Parker, whose wife she declined to call Madam, since
+clergymen had no business with wives. The little square has also
+humbler associations. It has been a bull-ring, where the poor beasts
+were baited "to make them man's meat and fit to be eaten". It has had
+a beautifully carved Market Cross, which gave place to the doubtful
+memorial to Marlowe. The massive oaken doors bear Juxon's coat of
+arms, for he set them up in place of those destroyed by the Puritans.
+They are open; let us pass to the object of our pilgrimage, the great
+Cathedral whose builders built better than they knew, and left for all
+time a history of this land and its faith, written and illuminated in
+stone.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p>
+<h2>THE CATHEDRAL</h2>
+
+
+<p>Once within Christ Church Gate, and in view of the whole southern side
+of the Cathedral, we may pause for a moment and enjoy the vision. That
+central tower, surely for dignity and beauty without its peer in the
+land, took from first to last fifty years in the building, and was
+christened from its first stone the Angel Steeple, from the figure
+with which it was to be crowned, though now, the Angel having taken
+flight, it is usually known as Bell Harry, from the great bell hung in
+it. Mark in the sunshine (for it is a sunny day) the depth and variety
+of shadows and lights on its moulded and sculptured surface. Not
+without pity and indignation do we read that Goldwell, the last of the
+priors who built the gatehouse and completed the tower, begged in
+vain, when a palsied old man, at the dissolution of the convent, to be
+continued in his old home as the first Dean. Nicholas Wotton, a wily
+monk not of the fraternity, whose stone effigy you will see kneeling
+in the Trinity Chapel, was appointed in his stead.</p>
+
+<p>After Bell Harry, the next place in our admiration is due to the
+Norman staircase-turret, somewhat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> farther east, with arcading so fine
+and decorative as to remind us of arabesque. This turret, with its
+fellow on the north side, and the ruined staircase in the Green Court,
+are Norman work unsurpassed anywhere. The fivelight Decorated window
+of St. Anselm's Chapel is believed by well-qualified judges to be the
+most beautiful instance of early fourteenth-century tracery in the
+country. It is, of course, much later than the chapel, and was
+inserted, in 1336, by Prior Oxenden, whose account states the cost at
+&pound;42, or about &pound;650 of our money, all given by himself and his friends.</p>
+
+<p>On our walk to the Norman turret and St. Anselm's Chapel we notice,
+under the east window of the Warrior's Chapel, a projection like a low
+buttress. It is the foot of Stephen Langton's tomb. He was originally
+buried within, when the chapel was built on to the transept; and later
+laid here, with the altar over his head, and his feet in the open
+ground.</p>
+
+
+<p>As we move along the Precincts we are treading on the dust of the
+Cathedral-builders. For all this southern side was a graveyard&mdash;of the
+laity as far as St. Anselm's, and of the monks and clergy beyond. The
+two were divided by a wall, in which was set as gateway the gabled
+Norman arch which is now the entrance to the Bowling Green in front of
+us. It is a curious reflection that, in those days of primitive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>
+transport, these walls and towers were brought stone by stone from the
+quarries at Caen in Normandy. The barges crossed the Channel and were
+unloaded at Fordwych, about two miles from Canterbury. Formerly the
+tides came up the river in considerable volume, and Fordwych was a
+flourishing port with its Mayor and Corporation; and still has its
+queer little town hall, its ducking stool for scolds, and its prison,
+though only a tiny hamlet of one hundred and fifty people. When Louis
+VII of France made his annual grant of 1600 gallons of wine to Christ
+Church Priory, a fee was paid to the Mayor of Fordwych for the use of
+his crane in lifting the barrels from the boats. Not many years ago,
+at an audit of the Chapter Accounts, a yearly item of forty shillings
+was identified as this very fee, which has been regularly paid for
+centuries, after the "Wine of St. Thomas" had been consumed,
+discontinued, and forgotten. Whether this odd survival will more
+interest the historic, or shock the financial, sense of our American
+visitors is a question of psychology.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Pic_6" id="Pic_6"></a>
+<img src="images/image_008.jpg" width="600" height="873" alt="CHRIST CHURCH GATE&mdash;ENTRANCE TO CATHEDRAL PRECINCTS" />
+<span class="caption">CHRIST CHURCH GATE&mdash;ENTRANCE TO CATHEDRAL PRECINCTS
+
+<a href="#Page_24">(Page 24)</a></span></div>
+
+<p>The nave was not built till the end of the fourteenth century, and is
+therefore one of the latest parts of the church. Of the two western
+towers the northern stood, as built by Lanfranc shortly after the
+Conquest, till 1834. During the excavations preparatory to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>
+present structure it is said that the skeletons of a man and two
+bullocks were found in an upright position, as they had sunk into the
+marsh in Norman times. All this side was very marshy, and the crypt of
+the choir was frequently flooded. The ground-level has risen during
+the last few centuries, but is still only some 20 or 30 feet above the
+sea.</p>
+
+<p>Above the outer entrance of the south-west porch is a bas-relief,
+blackened with age, of the altar which, after Becket's murder in the
+Martyrdom, was erected at the spot where he fell. It was called the
+Altar of the Sword's Point; and the fragment of Richard the Breton's
+sword, which dealt the last fierce blow, and was shivered on the
+pavement, is seen here at the foot of the altar. Above it is a
+crucifix with the figures of St. John and the Virgin. The pilgrims
+used to offer their gifts and prayers at three holy places in
+succession, at the "Sword's Point", in the Martyrdom; then at the
+earlier tomb of Becket in the crypt; and lastly at the shrine in the
+Trinity Chapel.</p>
+
+<p>Inside the porch, when Erasmus was here (1513), there were three stone
+figures of the murderers in full armour, "enjoying", he says, "the
+same sort of fame as Judas, Pilate, and Caiaphas". In Saxon times the
+porch served not only as entrance to the church, but also as
+courthouse and muniment room, where the Kings of Kent did justice and
+judgment. Of course<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> the present structure is much later, but both
+porch and nave cover the ground-plan of the ancient church of
+Lanfranc, which had a short choir, and an apse like that of a Roman
+basilica.</p>
+
+<p>Let us enter, and, having looked at the great west window, filled with
+thirteenth-century glass from other parts of the Cathedral, let us
+face eastward, with the vast piers and lofty arches on either hand. We
+see the long flight of steps up to the choir, and perhaps get a
+glimpse, through the door in the screen, of the farther and higher
+flight up to the Holy Table. This long vista, with its double ascent,
+is said to have greatly impressed the medi&aelig;val pilgrims, as indeed it
+still impresses us. There is nothing, I think, elsewhere quite like
+it; and it was doubtless intended to symbolize and accentuate the idea
+of "going up to" the shrine, which was in the exalted Trinity Chapel
+as in a throne-room. Incidentally this unusual elevation of the
+eastern floor of the church made possible one of the finest crypts in
+existence, which for space and dignity is a church in itself.</p>
+
+<p>As we go forward to the choir steps, and stand below the screen and
+under the central tower, there is much to observe. Overhead are the
+carved stone "struts" or crosspieces with which Prior Goldston
+buttressed his piers, and distributed the strain of the tower's
+enormous weight. Their date is marked by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> the rebus of the builder's
+name T and P (for Thomas, Prior), and between the letters a gilded
+stone. A similar rebus is in the crypt on Cardinal Morton's
+monument&mdash;a mort or hawk perched on a tun or barrel.</p>
+
+<p>The great window in the south transept, on our right, belongs to the
+fifteenth century, but is filled with magnificent glass brought from
+the choir clerestory, and 200 years older than the mullions which
+frame it. The corresponding north transept window was filled with
+splendid glass by Edward IV; the ecclesiastical figures in the topmost
+tracery, some borders, and the panels representing the King with his
+two sons who perished in the Tower, and his Queen, Elizabeth
+Woodville, with her daughters, still remain. The eldest girl is
+Elizabeth of York, who married Henry VII, and so ended the feud of
+York and Lancaster. The rest of the glass, which illustrated the life
+of the Virgin, and the miracles of St. Thomas of Canterbury, was
+smashed by the pike of the Puritan miscreant Culmer, who gloried in
+having "rattled down Becket's glassy bones". It is strange that he
+spared three of the unique thirteenth-century Becket windows in the
+Trinity Chapel. It is said that, as he was at work on his ladder, a
+townsman below enquired what he was doing. "The work of the Lord," was
+the reply. "Then if it please the Lord I will help you," and an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>
+adroit boulder was flung at his head. This may have cooled his zeal;
+but, alas! there is room for misgiving that he ducked his head in
+time. So the happiest hopes of history have sometimes miscarried.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_7" id="Pic_7"></a>
+<img src="images/image_009.jpg" width="800" height="543" alt="FORDWICH" />
+<span class="caption">FORDWICH
+
+<a href="#Page_29">(Page 29)</a></span></div>
+
+<p>On our right, again, is the entrance from the south transept into St.
+Michael's, or the Warriors' Chapel, where the honoured grave of
+Langton, the Magna Charta archbishop, is half inside and half outside,
+the wall striding over him by an arch so that his head should lie
+under the altar. This chapel contains, and was probably enlarged to
+contain, the extremely fine monument of Lady Margaret Holland and her
+two husbands, which is a perfect study of the armour and dress of the
+early fifteenth century. The first husband was Earl of Somerset and
+half-brother of Henry IV, and the second was, curiously, nephew of the
+first and brother of Henry V. The lady outlived them both and placed
+their effigies here with her own between them. She was the
+stepdaughter of the Black Prince.</p>
+
+<p>On our left again, in the north transept, is the far-famed Martyrdom,
+the spot where Becket died and became St. Thomas. Here is the ground
+on which the hunted prelate, powerful in body as in mind, caught up
+Tracy in his full armour and flung him on the pavement. Here is the
+door from the cloister through which Becket came for sanctuary, and
+which he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> refused to bar against his assailants come for murder&mdash;"The
+Church must not be turned into a Castle." Here is the place where the
+slain Archbishop lay, his head "four feet from the wall", where
+afterwards was erected to his memory the Altar of the Sword's Point.</p>
+
+<p>From hence he was carried to the tomb in the crypt, where he lay for
+fifty years until the Translation to the Shrine in Trinity Chapel in
+1220. It is not for me in this brief sketch to tell what has been told
+so dramatically by Stanley in his <i>Memorials</i>, and with such
+historical insight by Green in his History. It was a duel between the
+Civil and the Ecclesiastical sovereignties, represented respectively
+by Henry II and his Archbishop; both of them, for all their genius,
+too haughty, violent, and headstrong to bring a difficult controversy
+to a close, or even to a lasting truce.</p>
+
+<p>Before we leave the Martyrdom we must notice the oldest effigy in the
+Cathedral, that of Peckham, Edward I's Archbishop, who died in 1292,
+and beside it that of Wareham, the last archbishop before the
+Reformation, who half yielded to Henry VIII and repented of yielding,
+and in a few months died, partly perhaps of the sore perplexity and
+trouble of the time. A comparison of the two canopies will mark for us
+the advance in decorative art between the thirteenth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> and the early
+sixteenth centuries. The door into the cloister has its brighter as
+well as its dark memory. For here, at the entrance of what was then
+deemed the most sacred enclosure in the land, was Edward I, that
+great, stern, tender-hearted King, married to Margaret of Anjou, nine
+years after he had lost the wife of whom he wrote: "I loved her
+tenderly in her life; I do not cease to love her now she is dead".</p>
+
+<p>The pilgrims were usually conducted from the altar in the Martyrdom to
+the "Tumba" or first resting place of the "holy blissful martyr",
+which was in the crypt. The whole of the crypt was dedicated to the
+Virgin, and the Chapel of Our Lady of the Undercroft, though now dark
+and deserted, is still enclosed by the lovely stone tracery placed
+round it by the Black Prince as a memorial of his marriage. When
+Erasmus was here he said it was "so loaded with riches" as to be "a
+more than royal spectacle", and he added: "It is shown but to noblemen
+and particular friends". Doubtless though the treasures were hidden
+from the common pilgrim, the altar was always accessible to his
+devotion. Cardinal Morton desired to be buried near the image of Our
+Lady of the Undercroft, and his tomb is close by. He may be remembered
+as the minister of Henry VII and author of <i>Morton's Fork</i>. It was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> an
+eminently successful method of finance, which may remind us of a
+modern Budget. Its principle was that those who spend much can
+obviously afford to pay, and those who spend little can well afford
+the taxation of their savings.</p>
+
+<p>Under the south choir transept is another memorial of the Black
+Prince. It is the double chantry exacted by the Pope as the price of a
+dispensation to marry his cousin. The Prince came to Canterbury
+himself, met the prior and the mason, and gave orders for the work,
+which perhaps included the sculptured face of his beautiful wife in
+one of the bosses of the roof. The chantry, with its two apses for the
+mass priests, is now the Chapel of the French Protestants, who have
+had services here since the royal permission in 1575. After the
+Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1685, the refugees are said to
+have numbered three thousand, and to have gained for Canterbury a
+large trade in silk-weaving and paper-making. Their descendants are
+now merged into the English population, but their names and the weekly
+French service still survive.</p>
+
+
+<p>There have been two comparatively recent discoveries in the crypt. One
+is the well which probably supplied the water for the "ampulles" or
+leaden bottles of the pilgrims, the other is a stone chest containing
+bones which many believe to be the actual<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>  remains of Becket. They
+are certainly those of a tall man, placed in a receptacle which was
+not their original coffin, and there is certainly the mark of violence
+on the skull. It has been cogently argued by Dr. Moore, a canon of
+this Cathedral, and Principal of St. Edmund's Hall, Oxford, in a
+lecture which will, I hope, be printed, that as the bones of Dante at
+Ravenna, and of Cuthbert at Durham, were removed from their shrines to
+avoid violation, and others substituted to avoid discovery of the
+removal, so the bones of Becket were removed and hidden by the monks
+in the interval of suspense before the King's final orders arrived.
+They remain where they were found, and the slab above them, though it
+bears no inscription, will be readily pointed out by a guide. Before
+we bid farewell to the crypt we must call to mind one of the earliest
+and greatest of all the pilgrims. In 1174, not quite four years after
+the murder, Henry II, as a barefooted penitent, laid his head on the
+tomb of Becket between those two slender pillars, and gave his back to
+the scourge of the monks and clergy. How far this suffering and
+humiliation, which brought on a serious illness, was dictated by
+penitence and how far by policy will never be known. But urgent
+dangers were closing round the King, which were immediately afterwards
+dissipated in a series of triumphs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> which he may have thought due to
+miraculous interposition.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_8" id="Pic_8"></a>
+<img src="images/image_010.jpg" width="800" height="549" alt="ST. MARTIN&#39;S CHURCH" />
+<span class="caption">ST. MARTIN&#39;S CHURCH
+
+<a href="#Page_20">(Page 20)</a></span></div>
+
+<p>Following the track of the pilgrims, we leave the crypt on the south side,
+emerge into the transept, and ascend, along the south choir aisle, by
+steps worn hollow by penitential knees (for it was a kind of <i>scala
+santa</i>&mdash;a sacred stair) to the Trinity Chapel, the sanctuary of the
+martyr's shrine. Let us try to recall what this was like. It stood in the
+centre of the now vacant space beneath the crescent in the vaulted roof.
+Three steps led up to a platform figured with a kind of mosaic. The lowest
+step, worn by pilgrims' knees, and three of the inlaid "roundles" form
+part of the present pavement. On the platform three arches sustained the
+body of the saint in a gilded and richly wrought coffin. Two of these
+arches, with their columns, were hung with the precious offerings of those
+who had sought or received benefit by the saint's intercession. Through
+the third, suppliants were allowed to pass, that by contact with the
+pillars they might derive some virtue from the relics. The whole was
+enclosed in an elaborate oaken case, which was let down and drawn up by
+ropes and pulleys from above. One of the monks had charge of the
+proceedings&mdash;the Mystagogus or Master of the Mysteries, as Erasmus, with a
+touch of mockery, calls him&mdash;and when a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> sufficient concourse had
+assembled he drew up the cover and revealed to the wondering throng all
+the splendour of gold and gems.</p>
+
+<p>Within thirty years of Erasmus's visit every vestige of this
+magnificence was swept away; and so completely were all memorials of
+Becket destroyed that only one representation of the shrine survives.
+This, perhaps, was overlooked, for it is a small panel of stained
+glass, and may be found in the highest group of the central of the
+three thirteenth-century windows on the north side of the Trinity
+Chapel. St. Thomas is mitred and in full canonical vestments, leaning
+from or coming out of his shrine, above a figure lying on a bed or
+couch below. It is a pictorial record of a vision of the saint which
+is related by Benedict, his historian, as having appeared to himself.
+The inscription is <i>Prodire Feretro</i>, which fails in grammatical
+construction, but probably is intended to mean <i>Issuing from the
+Shrine</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It should be noted that the casket or coffin portrayed elsewhere in
+these windows, is not the great shrine in the Trinity Chapel, but the
+earlier "tumba" at which Henry II did his penance in the crypt. The
+determination of Henry VIII to obliterate everything which could
+minister to the cult was probably due not merely to zeal against
+superstition, but was part of his policy of stamping<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> out the
+resistance of the clergy to common law; for in the history of Becket,
+and in the honour paid to his remains, was the chief support of their
+claim. This throws light on the extraordinary legal process by which,
+more than three hundred years after his death, "Thomas Becket,
+sometime Archbishop of Canterbury", was summoned, tried, and condemned
+for treason, contumacy, and rebellion.</p>
+
+<p>The summons was solemnly read by the shrine, and when, after thirty
+days, no voice or presence had issued from it, the case was formally
+tried at Westminster, sentence pronounced, the bones of the defendant
+were adjudged to be publicly burned, his treasures confiscated to the
+Crown, and his name blotted out of every service-book. Strange as the
+trial of a dead man may seem to us, it was not without precedent. So
+had the dead Wycliffe been cited, and his bones burned. So did Queen
+Mary to the dead Bucer. It is pleasanter to think of the Emperor
+Charles V by the grave of Erasmus. A courtier proposed that he should
+exhume and burn the great scholar "who laid the egg which Luther
+hatched"; the Emperor's fine reply was: "I war not with the dead".</p>
+
+<p>Long before these changes and troubles, when the Chapel of the Shrine
+was the most honoured of the high places in the Cathedral, the Black
+Prince<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> was laid here as the most honoured of its dead; and it is a
+testimony to the tenacious affection of the nation for his memory,
+that no desecrating hand has ever been laid, even in turbulent times,
+on his grave. The armour of the beautiful effigy has lost the gilding
+which once made him a golden knight, but it is fresh and clear in its
+outlines as it was in the fourteenth century. His helm, surcoat,
+gauntlets, shield, and scabbard still hang above him; round his
+resting place is the railing with its six tall iron posts for the
+great candles, which were lit on the anniversaries of his death. What
+tragedies and tumults would have been arrested by his strong hand, had
+he lived, we cannot tell; but a more impressive monument to a more
+beloved memory does not perhaps exist.</p>
+
+<p>A few yards away lies the man who wrested the throne from the Prince's
+son, Richard II, while Canterbury nave was building. Visitors
+sometimes recognize in the portrait-statue of Henry IV, as he lies
+beside his Queen, Joan of Navarre, a curious family likeness to King
+Edward VII, witnessing to the persistence of Plantagenet blood. When
+the vault was opened in 1832 its occupant was found to be in a
+singular state of preservation, with a little simple cross, of two
+twigs tied together, laid upon his breast. The monument is of rare
+artistic merit,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> as is the chantry close by, which he built for "twey
+preestes" to say masses for his soul.</p>
+
+<p>The next monument eastward of the Black Prince's is Archbishop
+Courtenay's (1396); and beyond this a mean brick mound without
+inscription but not without a history. Here lies Odet de Coligny,
+brother of the great admiral. Though a prince, a cardinal, an
+inquisitor, and a bishop, his sympathies were with the Huguenots, and
+he undertook a mission on their behalf to Queen Elizabeth. In the
+canonical house, formerly known as Master Omer's, at the southeast
+corner of the Precincts, he was poisoned by his servants, whether or
+not by foreign instigation is not known. Those were days when the
+murderer's hand reached far and freely, especially in causes political
+and religious. He was laid here and rudely bricked over, in
+expectation of his removal to France; but the French wars of religion
+left men no leisure to care for their dead. Against the south wall is
+a tomb without inscription and long unidentified. When opened in 1889
+there was found, in full pomp of episcopal vestments, pastoral staff,
+chalice and paten, wearing a ring graven with strange Egyptian
+symbols, Hubert Walter, acclaimed archbishop on the field of Acre and
+afterwards the faithful chancellor who kept the kingdom and raised the
+ransom for C&oelig;ur de Lion. Beside him was a collecting box,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> perhaps
+for Peter's Pence, or for the King's ransom. These relics are kept
+under glass in Henry IV's chantry.</p>
+
+<p>East of Trinity Chapel is the circular space called the Corona, or
+Becket's Crown, either as the head or crown of Becket's church, or, as
+Dr. Cox thinks, because here by the altar to the Trinity was a silver
+bust of Becket containing the fragment of his skull cut off by Richard
+the Breton's sword. The three most famous objects in the Cathedral are
+the site of the shrine, the Black Prince's monument, and the chair of
+St. Augustine; and here is the last of the three. In this seat of
+Purbeck or Bethersden marble have been enthroned from time immemorial
+the Archbishops of Canterbury. If some critics say that it is no older
+than the thirteenth century, others say that it was in existence in
+the sixth century, when Augustine arrived, and that Kentish kings were
+crowned on it. It has always a place in the triple enthronement of an
+Archbishop of Canterbury. He is seated on the throne in the choir as
+Diocesan Bishop, in the chapter house as titular Abbot, and in St.
+Augustine's chair as Primate of All England.</p>
+
+<p>The pilgrims were conducted from Trinity Chapel back to the nave,
+along the south choir aisle, where the steps still show the marks of
+the two iron gates which divided the ascending from the descending<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>
+stream. We, however, will take the north choir aisle, which was
+strictly reserved for monks, clerics, and officials, and find our way
+into the choir. The pavement is still that of Lanfranc or Anselm, for,
+when any part of it is taken up, bits of lead are found which fell
+melted from the roof, in the great fire of 1174. Facing east by the
+archbishop's throne we see the monuments of six archbishops. Nearest
+on our right is Cardinal Kemp, who was with Henry V at Agincourt; then
+Stratford, the opponent of Edward III; and lastly Simon Sudbury, who
+built Westgate and lost his head. Nearest on our left is the gorgeous
+tomb of Chicheley, who, in old age, was stricken with remorse for
+having instigated Henry V's French campaigns in order to distract
+attention from Lollard schemes for confiscating Church property. He
+founded All Souls College, Oxford, to pray for the souls of those who
+fell in the wars, and the Warden still renews, when needed, the
+colour-decoration of his monument. Then Howley, who crowned Queen
+Victoria, and finally Bourchier, who crowned Edward IV, Richard III,
+and Henry VII, and, by wedding the latter to Elizabeth of York,
+terminated the Wars of the Roses.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_9" id="Pic_9"></a>
+<img src="images/image_011.jpg" width="800" height="550" alt="WESTGATE" />
+<span class="caption">WESTGATE
+
+<a href="#Page_13">(Page 13)</a></span></div>
+
+<p>In Canterbury Cathedral have been buried some fifty archbishops, the
+Black Prince, Henry IV, two queens, and many others of royalty or
+distinction.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> Of the old monuments only about eighteen are left. The
+great fires of 1067 and 1174, the violence of men, and the ravages of
+time have all taken their toll.</p>
+
+<p>Of the architectural history of the Cathedral, deeply interesting as
+it is, little can here be said. It may be summed up as a happy
+alternation of destructive fires and vigorous priors, aided by
+munificent archbishops and master masons of genius. There is no
+history of the first Christian settlement in these islands; but we
+dimly descry a Roman, and on its foundations a Saxon building which
+lasted till the Conquest Then came a fire, and with it Lanfranc's
+opportunity. He had driving power, and in the brief period of seven
+years (1070-7) built a stone Cathedral over the Roman and Saxon ground
+plans, adding a short choir and western towers of which one remained
+till 1834.</p>
+
+<p>Only twenty years after Lanfranc, Anselm, greatly daring, pulled down
+most of his choir, and with his prior, Ernulf, began a slightly wider
+and much longer choir, extending about as far as the present Holy
+Table. This came to be known as "the glorious choir of Conrad", from
+the name of the prior who completed it. Anselm's or Ernulf's work
+still remains as part of the present crypt. In 1174, a hundred years
+later, the year of Henry II's penance at <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>Becket's tomb, the whole
+church was ruined by the most devastating fire in its annals. How
+severe was the blow, both to monks and people, we may learn from
+Gervase, who was an eyewitness and one of the fraternity. The people
+"tore their hair and beat the walls and pavement of the church with
+their heads and hands, blaspheming the Lord and his Saints"; the monks
+"wailed and howled rather than sang their daily and nightly services"
+in the roofless nave.</p>
+
+<p>French William, the designer of the Cathedral at Sens in Normandy, was
+chosen for the restoration; and the mark of his handiwork is plainly
+to be seen in the resemblances between the two churches. Genius
+transforms hindrances into triumphs. French William's difficulty was
+that the side chapels of St. Andrew and St. Anselm, built on the arc
+of the old apse, were too near together to admit of the full width of
+his new and longer choir. He kept the chapels, contracted the choir at
+their nearest points and then expanded it into the Trinity Chapel,
+with the remarkable effect which strikes every observer.</p>
+
+<p>When his work was partly accomplished, and he was on the scaffolding
+to prepare for the turning of the vault, he fell with a mass of timber
+and stone from a height of 50 feet, and was disabled for life. He
+chose for his successor another man of genius,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> known as English
+William, one of his staff, "small of body, but in many kinds of
+workmanship acute and honest", who added to his master's design the
+great uplift of the floor of the Trinity Chapel and completed that and
+the Corona or Becket's Crown. Since 1185 no substantial alteration has
+been made in the eastern half of the Cathedral.</p>
+
+<p>If the reader desires to know the chief sources of our information
+about the early history of Canterbury Cathedral, the reply is in
+itself a picture of the times. Eadmer was a boy in the convent school
+before the Conquest, and singer or precentor in Lanfranc's choir of
+monks. He also lived through the rule of Anselm.</p>
+
+<p>Gervase was a monk of Christ Church when Becket died in the Martyrdom.
+He witnessed the fire of 1174, the desolation it left behind, and the
+immortal achievements of French William and of his English namesake.
+Eadmer and Gervase have both left us narratives, not umixed with
+monkish legend, but faithful and full of curious information.</p>
+
+<p>It is not easy for us to understand the veneration paid to relics; yet
+from that veneration sprang all the glories of the Cathedral. And when
+we read in these old chronicles, translated from Latin in Willis'
+<i>Architectural History</i>, of the desperate, almost agonized labours of
+the monks to save from fire,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> weather, or dishonour the remains of
+their buried saints, we shall withhold our scorn for their
+superstition, and find less surprising the immense sums paid in the
+Middle Age for the arm or skull of a dead man.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Pic_10" id="Pic_10"></a>
+<img src="images/image_012.jpg" width="600" height="872" alt="THE GATEWAY, ST. AUGUSTINE&#39;S ABBEY" />
+<span class="caption">THE GATEWAY, ST. AUGUSTINE&#39;S ABBEY
+
+<a href="#Page_51">(Page 51)</a></span></div>
+
+<p>The earlier Saxon archbishops were laid in the ground of St.
+Augustine's Abbey, which thus accumulated a store of sanctity which
+roused the sore jealousy of their Christ Church brethren. Accordingly
+in the eighth century Cuthbert obtained a secret permission from the
+Pope to be buried in the Cathedral. His death was not divulged until
+he was safely interred, and when the monks of St. Augustine's came to
+demand as usual the body of the dead archbishop, they were met with
+derisive shouts, and the brandishing of the Papal decree. Thus Gervase
+records that Cuthbert, "being endowed with great wisdom, procured for
+Christ Church the right of free sepulture".</p>
+
+<p>There is at least one "secret chamber" in the Cathedral for the hiding
+away of relics or of treasures. This is the Chapel of St. Gabriel in
+the crypt. The entrance was through a hole which was entirely
+concealed by an outside altar. This chapel was so successfully hidden
+that the monk Gervase was evidently ignorant of its existence in the
+twelfth century; and its roof is covered with very curious painting
+of that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> date, which the darkness (for there is no window) has kept
+in remarkable preservation. There is also a room, over the Treasury,
+accessible only by a door opening 6 feet above the floor of St.
+Andrew's Chapel, requiring therefore a ladder as means of approach.
+But it was never a really secret chamber, and was probably at one time
+entered by an ordinary stone stairway.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p>
+<h2>THE MONASTIC BUILDINGS</h2>
+
+
+<p>It must be remembered that Canterbury Cathedral was originally the
+church or chapel of the monastery. The people were admitted to the
+nave, but only monks and clergy took any official part in the
+services, or entered the choir, which was the sanctuary of the
+Brotherhood. Indeed the entire Precincts belonged to them; and though
+they allowed the ground near the Christ Church Gate to be used as a
+general churchyard, or "exterior cemetery", entrance to the inner
+Precincts was only by permission or invitation. The present boundary
+of this monkish domain on the south and east is the old fortified wall
+of the city, but formerly the monastery had an interior wall of its
+own, running parallel to it, and leaving a space or lane about 14 feet
+wide, for the carrying of munitions and provisions to the defenders of
+the outer wall, and of materials for its repair.</p>
+
+<p>The unique remnant of this lane is known as Quenengate or Queeningate
+Lane, and if we can borrow a canon's key and pass through the Norman
+archway of the Bowling Green, near the east end<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> of the Cathedral, we
+may see not only Queeningate Lane but also the postern door in the
+outer wall through which Queen Bertha, in the sixth century, went to
+her daily prayer at St. Martin's. Nay, as we open that door we are
+face to face with the turreted fourteenth-century gateway of St.
+Augustine's, founded by and named after the great man, and once
+ranking second only to Subiaco among the Benedictine monasteries of
+Europe. Time was when St. Augustine's looked down upon Christ Church,
+as upon a little brother who should not presume. When, at the
+invitation of Edward I, Archbishop Peckham went to the Abbey to dine,
+he was refused admission, unless he would lower his cross or crozier
+on entering. He declined this indignity, and was absent from the royal
+dinner-party. Ethelbert's Tower, a splendid remnant of the Norman
+abbey church, stood till 1822, when it was battered down by the
+Philistines to provide cheap building material and make room for a
+tea-garden. In Bede's time this church had a tomb inscribed: "Here
+resteth the Lord Augustine, first Archbishop of Canterbury A.D. 605".
+To share the sanctity of a spot so consecrated, saints, nobles, and
+kings were brought hither on their last journey. Cuthbert turned the
+tide when he so cunningly gained the right of sepulture for Christ
+Church, and eventually, as we know, Becket's shrine quite eclipsed St.
+Augustine's.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> After the dissolution the abbey became for a time a
+royal lodge, and Queen Elizabeth and the First and Second Charles have
+occupied the guest-chamber over the gateway.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Pic_11" id="Pic_11"></a>
+<img src="images/image_013.jpg" width="600" height="890" alt="GATEWAY OF ST. JOHN&#39;S HOSPITAL" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY OF ST. JOHN&#39;S HOSPITAL
+
+<a href="#Page_56">(Page 56)</a></span></div>
+
+<p>Returning to the Precincts, we are again reminded that the makers of
+Canterbury were the pilgrims and the monks. Of the three houses on our
+right, the first is Master Omer's, the guest-house for pilgrims where
+Odet de Coligny was murdered; the second incorporates part of the
+infirmary; the third was its frater and kitchen; while the long arcade
+of ruins, still reddened with the fire of 700 years ago, and
+stretching along the north side of the choir to the Dark Entry, was
+the monks' hospital.</p>
+
+<p>So vast an infirmary as this, with its chapel at one end and cloister
+at the other, for a community of 100 to 150 monks, seems at first
+unaccountable. This and some other things we shall understand better
+when we have walked through the infirmary cloister, and along
+Lanfranc's vaulted passage to the great or main Cloister of the
+convent. This was the centre of the whole monastic life, in which the
+monks spent the greater part of the day, and from which doors gave
+access to every part of the building, dining hall or frater,
+dormitories, cellarer's stores and lodging, deportum or recreation
+room, chapter house for business and discipline, Cathedral choir<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>
+for worship, infirmary for the sick or weary. Here they read and
+wrote, here they learned and taught, here were chronicles completed,
+missals illuminated, and various tasks of hand or head performed under
+the direction of the superiors.</p>
+
+<p>Yet with all its splendour of traceried arch it is a comfortless
+place. Not until a few years before the fall of the monastery was it
+glazed even on one side. In the long summers and hot sunshine of
+Italy, where the Benedictine order took its rise, it was natural
+enough to build for coolness and air; hence not only the open alleys
+of the cloister, but also its situation on the north side of the
+church. It is possible that at Canterbury there was some difficulty
+about space on the south side; certainly in a chilly climate open
+cloisters hidden from the sun by a mountain of masonry must have
+inflicted much hardship on the monks, and added to the austerities of
+their ascetic life. They were a delicate and short-lived race, usually
+failing to attain forty years of age, and compelled by statute to
+spend three days of each month in the infirmary, independently of
+occasional recourse thither for ailments and for being bled, which was
+regarded as periodically necessary. Ordericus Vitalis, a monkish
+historian living in Normandy, says several times in his chronicle:
+"The winter has now come, and my fingers are so numbed by the cold
+that I <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>can write no more till the spring". Visiting members of other
+convents were not asked to share the full discipline, but were
+hospitably lodged in the infirmary as the most comfortable quarters.
+Moreover, epidemics occurred, as in 1348, the year of the Black Death,
+when Archbishop Bradwardine died of the Plague within a few weeks of
+his installation, and half the nation perished. So the infirmary was
+probably not too large after all. It must not be forgotten that
+silence was strictly enjoined in the Cloister, so that to the agonies
+of cold hands and feet was added the privation, with which we cannot
+fail to sympathize, of being unable to talk about the inclemency of
+the weather.</p>
+
+<p>In the cloister garth are two graves perhaps as well worth visiting as
+ever Becket's was, though no miracles have yet occurred at them. They
+are those of Archbishop Temple and Dean Farrar.</p>
+
+<p>If we retrace our way along Lanfranc's gloomy passage to the infirmary
+cloister, where guests and invalid brethren took the air, and turn to
+the left along the Dark Entry, by the ruins of the Lord Prior's
+Lodging and Chequer House or Office, we emerge into the Green Court.
+Here servants had their quarters, and at the great gate of the convent
+received guests and pilgrims. Those of distinction they conducted to
+Master Omer's, those<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> of middle rank to Chillenden Chambers or the
+vanished New Lodging; the common wayfarers ascended that lovely and
+unique Norman staircase to the Great North Hall. These had to bring
+their own bedding and cooking utensils, like the steerage passengers
+in an emigrant ship; and their hall was kitchen, parlour, and bedroom
+in one, so that its superb approach was no measure of the quality of
+its accommodation. The cowl or habit of a monk would rarely be seen in
+the Green Court. It belonged too much to the outside world and the
+secular life.</p>
+
+<p>Before we ourselves return to that outside world let us turn
+southwards for a moment for a view that we shall not easily forget.
+Below the immense mass and broken outlines of the church, and flanked
+by ruins of cloister and dormitory, we see across a little breadth of
+lawn the picturesque octagonal tower called the Baptistery. It was
+really a monks' lavatory, and the centre of the water supply. For,
+strange as it may be to our conceited modern ears, the monks had from
+the twelfth century an elaborate system of waterworks, and probably
+owed to this their comparatively small mortality during the
+visitations of plague. There still exists a twelfth-century plan
+showing the various pipes, tanks, and basins, for drinking, washing,
+or cooking. So the little octagonal tower, as so often happens, was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>
+useful as well as beautiful. And if the chart which indicates the path
+of every pipe and runnel, and the place of every layer for personal
+ablution, fails to indicate any laundry for the washing of
+clothes&mdash;why, the monks wore all-wool garments, and did not think
+fastidiousness a virtue. Let us hope for the best.</p>
+
+<p>So we pass the Convent Gate and cross the Mintyard. This is now a
+"quad" of the King's School, but archbishops till Cranmer exercised
+here their right of coinage. From the Mintyard we step back into a
+rather squalid street of a modern world. But the house just opposite
+is old enough to have housed pilgrims, and two or three hundred yards
+along Northgate Street, to our right, is the fifteenth-century
+timbered archway of St. John's Hospital, shown in our illustration.
+St. John's was founded before the days of the pilgrims as a nook of
+safety and peace for the aged poor, and this it still remains. How
+many wearied souls have bidden here their long farewell to Canterbury!
+We, too, will bid our farewell, less solemn, and not without hope of
+return, but still with regret. If these pages and pictures enable you,
+reader, to revisit in spirit the place of your pilgrimage, they will
+have accomplished their end.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>Beautiful England</h2>
+
+
+<ul>
+<li><span class="smcap">Bath and Wells</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Bournemouth and Christchurch</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Cambridge</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Canterbury</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Chester and the Dee</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">The Cornish Riviera</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Dartmoor</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Dickens-Land</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">The Dukeries</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">The English Lakes</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Exeter</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Folkestone and Dover</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Hampton Court</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Hastings and Neighbourhood</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Hereford and the Wye</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">The Isle of Wight</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">The New Forest</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Norwich and the Broads</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Oxford</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">The Peak District</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Ripon and Harrogate</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Scarborough</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Shakespeare-Land</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Swanage and Neighbourhood</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">The Thames</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Warwick and Leamington</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">The Heart of Wessex</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Winchester</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Windsor Castle</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">York</span></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+
+<h3>LONDON</h3>
+<ul>
+<li><span class="smcap">The Heart of London</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Through London's Highways</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">In London's By-ways</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Rambles in Greater London</span></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>Beautiful Scotland</h2>
+
+
+
+<ul>
+<li><span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">The Shores of Fife</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">The Scott Country</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine,
+and the Trossachs</span></li></ul>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>Beautiful Ireland</h2>
+
+
+<ul>
+<li><span class="smcap">Connaught</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Leinster</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Munster</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Ulster</span></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>Beautiful Switzerland</h2>
+
+
+<ul>
+<li><span class="smcap">Chamonix</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Lausanne</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Lucerne</span></li>
+<li><span class="smcap">Villars and Champery</span></li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h4>BLACKIE &amp; SON LTD., 50 OLD BAILEY, LONDON, <span class="smcap">and</span> 17 STANHOPE STREET,
+GLASGOW<br /> BLACKIE &amp; SON (INDIA) LTD. BOMBAY; BLACKIE &amp; SON (CANADA)
+LTD., TORONTO</h4>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Canterbury, by Canon Danks
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Canterbury, by Canon Danks
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Canterbury
+
+Author: Canon Danks
+
+Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust
+
+Release Date: February 15, 2011 [EBook #35276]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANTERBURY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sankar Viswanathan, Juliet Sutherland, and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                [Illustration: THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS
+
+                               (_Page 12_) _Frontispiece_]
+
+
+
+                              CANTERBURY
+
+
+                       DESCRIBED BY CANON DANKS
+
+                     PICTURED BY E. W. HASLEHUST
+
+
+
+
+                        BLACKIE & SON LIMITED
+
+                          LONDON AND GLASGOW
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                      Facing
+                                                       Page
+
+The Canterbury Weavers             _Frontispiece_
+
+St. Nicholas, Harbledown                                   8
+
+Canterbury from the Stour                                 12
+
+The Greyfriars' House                                     16
+
+Mercery Lane                                              20
+
+Canterbury Cathedral from Christ Church Gate              24
+
+Christ Church Gate, Entrance to Cathedral Precincts       29
+
+Fordwich                                                  33
+
+St. Martin's Church                                       37
+
+Westgate                                                  44
+
+The Gateway, St. Augustine's Abbey                        48
+
+Gateway of St. John's Hospital                            52
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CANTERBURY]
+
+THE CITY
+
+
+This little essay on a great subject is neither a guidebook nor a
+history, though it may, for many, be enough, for their purpose, of
+both. With its illustrations of ancient and famous scenes it is, let
+us say, a keepsake or memorial for some of the hundred thousand
+pilgrims who still annually visit Canterbury, and fall under the spell
+of its enchantments. It may recall to them in distant homes, some of
+them overseas, the thrill with which they first beheld the mother-city
+of English Christianity, the great church, inwoven with so much of
+English history, which in the Middle Ages contained one of the most
+venerated and far-sought shrines in Europe.
+
+There are certainly not more than one or two cities in the kingdom
+which rival Canterbury in interest, or bring back to us more vividly
+"the days that are no more". Here is the work of pre-historic man in
+the Dane John (variant of Donjon or stronghold) and long earthen
+rampart which guarded the ford of the Stour. Here are the bastions and
+parapet of the city wall, with which the soldiers of the Middle Ages
+faced and fortified the British earthwork. Here is Saxon building with
+Roman materials, as in the churches of St. Pancras and St. Martin,
+where Roman bricks abound, and Roman columns, perhaps of some
+forgotten heathen temple, are not wanting. In the Roman cemeteries
+outside the walls have been found bracelets, pins, mirrors,
+horse-bits, coins, even rouge-pots. Hither converged the Roman roads
+from the military ports of Richborough, Dover, and Lympne (now high
+and dry). Along these roads for some four hundred years tramped the
+Roman legionaries under their centurions, entering and leaving the
+city respectively by the streets now known as Burgate, Watling Street,
+and Wincheap. Here dwelt, in the sixth century, Queen Bertha,
+foster-mother of English Christianity, with her heathen husband
+Ethelbert, King of Kent; and here, in the new era which dated from the
+arrival of Augustine's monkish procession with its silver cross and
+painted Christ (as told once for all by Dean Stanley), these three
+laboured at that "building without hands" of which the Cathedral is an
+outward type and embodiment. Hither converged in mediaeval times the
+Pilgrims' Ways, still partly traceable on the ordnance map, from
+London, as in Chaucer's Tales, from Southampton, and from Sandwich.
+
+On July 7, the feast of the Translation of Becket's bones from the
+Crypt to the Trinity Chapel, and especially at the Great Pardons or
+Jubilees of the Feast every fifty years, from 1220 to 1520, these ways
+were crowded with pilgrims, English or foreign, on foot or on
+horseback, sick or whole, sad or merry, intent on paying homage and
+receiving a blessing, above all of winning the promised plenary
+indulgence at the miracle-working shrine. From the offerings of these
+pilgrims came in great measure the huge sums of money which enabled
+the monks to extend and exalt their church to its present
+magnificence. In 1220, the first of the Great Pardons, it has been
+estimated that 100,000 pilgrims offered L20,000 of our money; and this
+did not include the stream of worshippers and gifts that flowed on
+other days of the year. If we add to these "devotions of the people"
+the splendid generosity of the monks and clergy, we begin to
+understand how the Cathedral was paid for. Lanfranc gave the whole
+revenues of the manor of East Peckham, bestowed on him by William the
+Conqueror; and he was but the first of a series of munificent
+archbishops.
+
+It is one of the curiosities of history, though by no means without
+parallel, that these lavish gifts and this energy of costly building
+continued up to the very edge of doom. The great central tower, the
+Angel Steeple or Bell Harry, was not finished till 1490; Christ Church
+Gatehouse not till 1517; Henry VIII himself made offerings at the
+shrine in 1520. In 1538 he gave orders to plunder the shrine and burn
+Becket's bones, and in 1540 the monastery was dissolved.
+
+It may be as well here to give some idea of the value of the spoil.
+"The official return of the actual gold of the shrine was 4994-3/4
+oz., the gilt plate weighed 4425 oz., the parcel gilt 840 oz., and the
+plain silver 5286 oz." But Erasmus, who visited Canterbury in 1513,
+writes: "The least valuable portion was gold; every part glistened,
+shone, and sparkled with rare and very large jewels, some of them
+exceeding the size of a goose's egg.... The principal of them were
+offerings sent by sovereign princes." As, for instance, the golden cup
+presented by Louis VII of France in 1179, and the Royal Jewel of
+France, an immense ruby or carbuncle, given by the same Prince, which
+afterwards figured in a great ring on Henry's portentous thumb, and
+(we are rather surprised to learn) in the necklace of his Roman
+Catholic daughter Mary. There were crucifixes, statuettes, and
+ornaments of precious metal; there were innumerable gems, so that the
+last visitor at the shrine, in the very year of its destruction,
+declared "that if she had not seen it, all the men in the world could
+never a' made her to believe it".
+
+[Illustration: ST. NICHOLAS, HARBLEDOWN
+
+(_Page 10_)]
+
+We are scarcely surprised, therefore, to hear of the two large chests
+with which seven or eight men staggered out of the church, or of the
+twenty-six cartloads of vestments, plate, and other Cathedral property
+which were dispatched to London. The total value of Henry's
+confiscations from this church and priory is thought to have been not
+less than three million pounds of our money. For more than three
+hundred years there had been, outside Rome, no more famous place of
+pilgrimage, no more wonderful treasury of gifts and relics. One can
+guess the thoughts of the "sovereign princes" and other devout donors,
+when their costly offerings and those of their ancestors were poured
+pell-mell into the gaping coffers of the English king. It is less easy
+to guess the thoughts of the Canterbury citizens and other English
+folk who looked on with scarcely a protest. Some probably were cowed,
+and some sympathetic. Perhaps a dim consciousness was waking in the
+minds of the people, that monasticism and relic-worship had outlived
+their day of service, and that a new age was at hand. Even under Queen
+Mary no attempt was made to replace the shrine or renew the
+pilgrimages.
+
+Let us, however, be as pilgrims ourselves--Chaucer's if you will--and
+enter the city along their ancient well-trodden way from the Tabard
+Inn at Southwark. Only we will start a short mile and a half from
+Canterbury at the Leper Hospital of Harbledown. It is now a group of
+modern almshouses, but still has its prior and sub-prior, as in the
+days when the lepers lived under the shadow of Lanfranc's Church of
+St. Nicholas, which they were forbidden to enter. This church and the
+square-timbered entrance by the porter's lodge are shown in our
+illustration.
+
+An aged bedesman, on the steps to this garden porch, would greet the
+travellers in the road with a shower of sprinkled holy water, and hold
+out to be kissed by them a crystal set in the upper leather of the
+martyred Becket's shoe. The upper leather is gone, perhaps kissed
+away, but the crystal is still shown in the hospital, set in an old
+bowl of maple-wood. Erasmus and Colet came here in 1513, and were
+invited to do as others. They were scholars and thinkers, full of the
+new learning, and therefore scornful of the sanctity of slippers and
+bones. They declined--Colet rather crossly; Erasmus (tolerant soul)
+with a humorous twinkle and a kindly coin for the bedesman's box which
+is still to be seen within.
+
+A few steps onward up the steep little Harbledown Hill and we have a
+view of Canterbury Cathedral across the River Stour--a view which has
+delighted the eye and heart of many pilgrims, whether ancient or
+modern. Nearly a mile downhill and we come to St. Dunstan's Church in
+the environs of Canterbury. Here in a vault is the head of a nobler
+martyr than Becket--of a man with all Becket's constancy and faith,
+with more than Becket's intellect, and without his haughty spirit and
+violent temper. All the world knows how the head of Sir Thomas More,
+one of the best and wisest of Englishmen, was set on London Bridge as
+the head of a traitor, and how, after fourteen days of this ignominy,
+it secretly passed into the possession of his daughter, Margaret
+Roper. It is less generally known that she finally placed it in the
+Roper vault in St. Dunstan's.
+
+On the opposite side of the road, a little nearer the town, is the old
+brick archway which was once the approach to Margaret Roper's house,
+and beneath which father and daughter, who loved each other dearly,
+must often have passed together.
+
+We have all been with David Copperfield and his aunt to Mr.
+Wickfield's house in Canterbury--"A very old house bulging out over
+the road; a house with long, low lattice windows bulging out still
+farther, and beams with carved heads on the ends bulging out too; so
+that I fancied that the whole house was leaning forward, trying to see
+who was passing on the pavement below".
+
+Nowhere in the country will you find so many of these old houses; some
+of them in part dating back to the fourteenth century; and Dickens
+felt the charm of them. Many are now hidden behind ugly modern fronts,
+but many are yet unspoiled. Doubtless some of these in St. Dunstan's
+Street took in belated pilgrims who arrived after curfew and the
+shutting of the city gate.
+
+Just outside Westgate is the old Falstaff Inn, with its sign suspended
+from a remarkable bracket of fifteenth-century ironwork. This reminds
+us that before the era of coal mining in the north, Kentish men were
+craftsmen in iron, obtaining unlimited fuel from the forest of the
+Weald. Doubtless there were Kentish pikes and blades, Kentish helmets
+and hauberks, at Cressy and Poitiers, at Agincourt, in the Wars of the
+Roses, and at Flodden. While we are looking at old houses let us pass
+through Westgate (we will return in a moment) and visit the Canterbury
+Weavers, shown in our illustration. It rises sheer from the water, and
+its windows "bulge" over the water, where the river crosses the
+street near Eastbridge Hospital. It is, in spite of repairs and
+restorations, a fifteenth-century building, and, as viewed from the
+bridge, not less picturesque than a nook of Bruges or Ghent.
+
+[Illustration: CANTERBURY FROM THE STOUR
+
+(_Page 11_)]
+
+Eastbridge Hospital, just opposite, belongs to the thirteenth and
+fourteenth centuries, but is not a specimen of domestic architecture.
+It is a charitable foundation which survived Tudor confiscations
+through the intercession of Cranmer, and still shelters its aged poor.
+Somewhat farther, on the same side, is No. 37, a French silk-weaver's
+house, built in the fifteenth century for one of the refugees from
+religious persecution. It is almost unchanged: the ground floor is the
+shop, the first floor is for the family and the loom, and the story
+above has its door for receiving the bales of silk hauled up from the
+street.
+
+We must not wander farther without turning to look at Westgate, the
+last remaining of Canterbury's seven city gates and the best thing of
+its kind in the kingdom. With its round flanking towers and its
+massive portal, it takes us back in a moment to the fourteenth
+century, and makes us wonder and sigh that citizens could have had the
+heart to destroy its fellows. For even as late as the beginning of the
+nineteenth century the walls and gates of the ancient town were almost
+intact. With grim amusement, not unmixed with disgust, we recall the
+story that once the Town Council was equally divided on the
+proposition that it should be pulled down to admit the huge caravans
+of Wombwell's Wild Beast Show. It was saved only by the casting vote
+of the Mayor, to whose common sense it occurred to make a way round
+it. And that Mayor, not the least of Canterbury's worthies, is not
+even yet commemorated by--
+
+                        "Colossal bust
+    Or column trophied for triumphal show".
+
+There was an earlier Norman gateway here with, oddly as it seems to
+us, the Church of the Holy Cross on the top of it. In 1380 Archbishop
+Simon Sudbury built the present structure and found ground space
+beside it for the church. And thereby hangs a tale. Sudbury was not
+only a munificent builder, but a man of vigorous mind, wise before his
+time. He overtook a company of pilgrims nearing this gate, and spoke
+to them very plainly on the matter of relics and pilgrimages,
+declaring that no Pope or plenary indulgence could avail without the
+contrite heart and the changed life. This was, be it remembered, 150
+years before the Reformation, and not even from a bishop could such a
+doctrine be received. The fury of the crowd found voice in the curse
+flung then and there upon the preacher by one of the Kentish gentry:
+"My Lord Bishop, for this act of yours, stirring the people to
+sedition against St. Thomas, I stake the salvation of my soul that you
+will close your life by a most terrible death". "From the beginning of
+the world", adds the Chronicler, "it never has been heard that anyone
+ever injured the Cathedral of Canterbury and was not punished by the
+Lord." Eleven years later, for his share in the hated Poll-tax, the
+Archbishop was dragged out of the Tower of London by the rebels under
+Wat Tyler and beheaded. His body was buried in the choir of the
+Cathedral, and when uncovered accidentally was found to have a leaden
+ball in the place of the head, which is still preserved at his native
+Sudbury.
+
+From Westgate the main street, under as many _aliases_ as a hardened
+criminal, starting as St. Peter's Street, continuing as High Street,
+Parade, and St. George's Street, runs the whole length of the city,
+with quaint and curious dwellings on either hand. If we were real
+pilgrims, and had walked or ridden all the way from London, we should
+make at once for "The Chequers of the Hope" mentioned in the
+supplementary Canterbury Tale. It is only a few hundred yards away,
+where Mercery Lane turns off to the left, and has, or had, its
+dormitory of a hundred beds. Alas! it was burned down in 1865, and we
+shall recognize it only by a modern carving of the Black Prince's
+crest--the leopard with protruding tongue--on the stone corner of the
+house where the two streets meet.
+
+As, however, we are but amateur pilgrims, and not very tired, we will
+loiter about the city. Let us ask Mr. Pierce's permission to trespass
+in his Franciscan Gardens in Stour Street, near the Post Office. For
+there we shall find, neglected and decayed, but still beautiful with a
+sad and ruined beauty, the last monument of the Greyfriars or
+Franciscans, once the most popular of the monastic orders. It is a
+little house which occupies no ground, for it is built on arches over
+a branch of the Stour, and its slender supporting pillars rise from
+the middle of the river bed. As we consider it, we may remember the
+story of Elizabeth Barton "The Holy Maid of Kent", the devout,
+visionary, hysterical girl, promoted from a kitchen to a nunnery, who,
+amongst other and harmless or edifying revelations, felt bidden to
+denounce the King's divorce from Katherine, and was taken, or bravely
+went, to Henry to tell him so.
+
+[Illustration: THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE
+
+(_Page 16_)]
+
+The poor creature was executed at Tyburn with some six of her
+teachers, confessors, and abettors, amongst them the warden and one of
+the brethren of Greyfriars, who must often have gone in and out of
+this battered doorway. Let us add, to the credit of luckless Anne
+Boleyn, that she alone of all concerned had the grace to intercede
+with her royal tiger on the girl's behalf. There is a perhaps more
+attractive memory clinging to the place. In the seventeenth century
+here, for a time, lived Richard Lovelace, the handsomest man of his
+time--the Royalist poet who wrote two of the best songs in the
+language, the gay cavalier who died in want and despair because his
+lady-love, on his reported death, married another man. He may have
+written "Going to the Wars" in this very house--
+
+    "I could not love thee, dear, so much
+    Loved I not honour more".
+
+But "To Althea"--
+
+    "Stone walls do not a prison make,
+    Nor iron bars a cage",
+
+he wrote while imprisoned by the House of Commons for presenting a
+Kentish Petition on behalf of King Charles.
+
+While we are thinking of poets, and their not infrequent tendency (in
+the past) to a bad end, we may as well walk up High Street. Various
+epochs and ages look down upon us on either side, though too often
+through modern windows. Near the top, on the right-hand side, we shall
+find a very old house with a very new front, and the business label
+of Achille Serre. This is the birthplace of Christopher Marlowe, one
+of the nest of Elizabethan singing-birds--
+
+    "With mouth of gold, and morning in his eyes",
+
+who, perhaps, had a hand in Shakespeare's _Henry VI_. He was born in
+the same year as Shakespeare, and, in spite of a reckless life and
+early death, came nearer to him in power than any other dramatist of
+the day. He was killed in a tavern brawl before he was thirty, but
+found time to write immortal things, amongst them "The Passionate
+Pilgrim":
+
+    "Come live with me and be my love",
+
+a quite other sort of pilgrim than those who sought Becket's shrine.
+
+It is said that he was an "atheist", and that the tavern dagger was
+just in time to save him from imminent risk of stake and faggot. This
+naturally leads us from his birthplace, along St. George's Terrace,
+which is really the old earthwork faced with mediaeval stone, to the
+spot where atheists, heretics, traitors, and witches used to meet
+their fate. This is the Dane John already mentioned as a pre-historic
+mound. Dr. Cox, in his volume on Canterbury in the "Ancient Cities"
+series, gives the following extract from the city accounts touching
+the death on the Dane John of one John Stone, an Austin friar, who
+denied that the Sovereign was Supreme Head of the Church:--
+
+     "Paid for half a tonne of tymber to make a payre of Gallaces
+     to hang Fryer Stone. For a Carpenter for making the same
+     Gallaces and the dray. For a labourer who digged the holes.
+     To iiij men who holp set up the Gallaces. For drynk to them.
+     For carriage of tymber from Stablegate to the Dongeon. For
+     ij men that sett the Ketyl and parboyled hym. To ij men that
+     caryed his quarters to the gate and set them up. For a
+     halter to hang hym. For two halfpenny halters. For Sandwich
+     cord. For Strawe. To the woman that scowred the Ketyll. To
+     hym that dyd execucion iiijs viijd."
+
+Friar Stone, it is to be feared, is only one of a long procession of
+tortured ghosts who might meet us where the children play on the Dane
+John. But it was not always the place of execution, it came to be a
+coign of vantage from which the orthodox (for the time being) could
+comfortably view, not without lunch-baskets, what went on in Martyr's
+Field, now marked with an obelisk a little to the south-west of the
+mound. Here were forty, men, women, and children, "brent" or burnt at
+the stake in the reign of Queen Mary for asserting what Friar Stone
+denied. Their names are carved in granite on the spot where they died,
+and the motto on the monument is: "Lest We Forget".
+
+From the Dane John we may return along the earthen rampart by the
+city wall to St. George's Street, and ask our way to St. Martin's,
+believed by competent enquirers to be the oldest church not only in
+England, but in Europe. It certainly existed in the sixth century,
+when Queen Bertha came to its services through the postern still known
+as Quenengate. Bede, the father of English history and the most
+learned man of the seventh century, says that there was a Christian
+church here during the Roman occupation. As the Romans left in 410,
+this gives a record of fifteen centuries of worship on this site. Here
+King Ethelbert was baptized by Augustine, and a representation of this
+event graven on an ancient seal gives a font much resembling the one
+still in use.
+
+The walls, of course, have been patched and repaired many times, but
+are, especially in the chancel, full of Roman bricks and Saxon
+workmanship. There are indications that some of the courses were
+actually laid by Roman hands; and, if this be so, imagination may
+carry us back far earlier than Augustine, to the legend that Joseph of
+Arimathea brought the Gospel to Britain within a generation of the
+death of Our Lord.
+
+[Illustration: MERCERY LANE
+
+(_Page 21_)]
+
+On our way back to the town, if we step inside the Infirmary grounds,
+we shall see the ruins of St. Pancras, built, it is said, by Augustine
+on the foundations of an "Idol-temple" where Ethelbert worshipped
+before his conversion. Roman bricks abound, Roman pillars are built
+into the wall, and there are still the remains of an altar in a tiny
+chapel where probably Augustine officiated.
+
+Now we may return to the "Chequers of the Hope", but not to its
+dormitory of a hundred beds. There is a fine frankness, far removed
+from modern municipal ambition, in the names of these old streets.
+Mercery Lane, Butchery Lane, Wincheap (Wine Market), and Beer-Cart
+Lane tell their own story. As we look down narrow, crooked Mercery
+Lane, with its overhanging fronts, struggling to survive
+"improvements", we not only recognize "the last enchantments of the
+Middle Age", but we ask what kind of mercery used to stock the stalls
+under the arcades which once sheltered the sidewalks? Chiefly, no
+doubt, cheap memorials or "signs" of the accomplished pilgrimage; the
+little leaden bottles or "ampulles", containing water from the well
+near Becket's tomb in the crypt, and the infinitesimal tincture
+therein of the martyr's blood; also leaden brooches representing his
+mitred head. "These signs", says Dean Stanley, "they fastened on their
+hats or caps, or hung from their necks, and thus were henceforth
+distinguished. As the pilgrims from Compostella brought home the
+scallop-shells which still lie on the seashores of Gallicia--as the
+'Palmers' from Palestine brought the palm-branches still given at the
+Easter Pilgrimage--as the 'roamers' from Rome brought models of St.
+Peter's keys, or a 'Vernicle'--that is a pattern of Veronica's
+handkerchief--sewed on their caps--so the Canterbury Pilgrim had his
+hat thickset with a 'hundred ampulles' or with leaden brooches. Many
+of these are said to have been found in the beds of the Stour and the
+Thames, dropped as the vast concourse departed from Canterbury or
+reached London."
+
+What processions, triumphal or funereal, have passed along Mercery
+Lane and crossed the little open space before the gateway to the
+Precincts! Two French kings, and nearly every English sovereign till
+Queen Anne, have been here. Louis VII of France as a pilgrim, John of
+France as the captive of the Black Prince, Henry II on his bitter
+pilgrimage of penance in 1174; Richard Coeur de Lion with his
+captive, William the Lion of Scotland, in 1189; Henry III with the
+Magna Carta Archbishop Stephen Langton at the Great Pardon of 1220.
+Here before the Cathedral gate halted for a moment the weeping
+cavalcade when they buried the Black Prince, in 1376--
+
+    "To the noise of the mourning of a mighty nation,
+    Mourning when its leaders fall".
+
+No man bearing weapons was admitted to the Precincts after the murder
+of Becket; therefore the two emblematic riders who had accompanied the
+bier from Westgate, "one bearing the Prince's arms of England and
+France, the other the ostrich feathers--one to represent the Prince in
+his splendid suite as he rode in war, the other to represent him in
+black as he rode to tournaments"--had here to fall out of rank. Here
+were borne to their grave Henry IV and his Queen Joan of Navarre. Dean
+Stanley remarks that Henry IV as a child of ten was perhaps present as
+a mourner at the Black Prince's funeral, unknowing that he should
+overthrow the Prince's son Richard II and finally rest by the famous
+warrior's side.
+
+The devout but incapable and unfortunate Henry VI was at Canterbury
+eleven times, and more than once as a pilgrim. As a pilgrim, in
+humblest guise, he was here after his final defeat at Tewkesbury, his
+Queen in captivity, his son dead on the field "stabbed by the Yorkist
+Lords after Edward (the Fourth) had met his cry for mercy with a
+buffet from his gauntlet". Henry himself went hence to die in the
+Tower, and so end the hopes of the House of Lancaster.
+
+The little open space between Mercery Lane and the Precincts gatehouse
+has seen many strange doings which we cannot record. In the
+thirteenth century Canterbury was requisitioned for a contingent of
+Edward I's Welsh invasion, and the monks refused to bear their share
+of the expense. This led to a furious dispute with the citizens, an
+embittered kind of "Town and Gown". A trench was dug before the gate
+to prevent ingress and egress of men or victuals, and the brethren
+appear to have been starved out. In the fifteenth century Edward IV
+hanged the Mayor and some of his friends here for complicity in
+treason.
+
+But these "old, unhappy far-off things" were before the existence of
+the present beautiful Perpendicular gatehouse, depicted in our
+illustration. Its Norman predecessor was still standing, lower,
+plainer, grimmer, like most Norman buildings. Prior Goldston did not
+finish this one till 1517. In 1520, when its carvings were fresh and
+the stone bright in the sunshine, and the great statue of Our Lord
+looked down from over the archway, and the octagonal side-turrets,
+like those of St. Augustine's, were not within three hundred years of
+being pulled down that bank-clerks might see the Cathedral clock from
+the other end of Mercery Lane--then there came to the last of the
+Great Pardons, with trumpetings and gorgeous retinue, two great kings
+riding under one canopy. One was Henry VIII and the other the
+mightiest monarch in Christendom, Charles V the Emperor of Germany,
+Spain, and the Netherlands, President of the Diet which tried to
+murder Luther, as the Council of Constance had murdered Huss; but a
+far better man than Henry, and uncle of Henry's Queen, Katherine.
+Before them rode Cardinal Wolsey, and there were Spanish Grandees, and
+English Nobles, and Queen Katherine herself. "The streets", says Dr.
+Cox, "were lined with priests and clerks from all the parishes within
+twenty miles of the city, with censers, crosses, surplices, and copes
+of the richest sort. At the great west doors of the church (still
+opened only for royalties and archbishops) they were met by the
+Archbishop, and after saying their devotions they proceeded to
+Wareham's Palace. On one evening of that week Wareham gave a great
+ball in the hall of the Palace, when the Emperor danced with the then
+Queen of England, and Henry with the Queen of Aragon, the Emperor's
+mother."
+
+[Illustration: CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM CHRIST CHURCH GATE
+
+(_Page 24_)]
+
+Henry, as we know, had a taste for cloth of gold, and the affair must
+have been sufficiently sumptuous. This was perhaps the last of the
+great pageants.
+
+Charles I came here with his fifteen-year-old bride; Charles II was
+gracious at considerable expense to the citizens, and brought as his
+Archbishop the faithful Juxon, who had been chaplain on the fatal day
+at Whitehall and had received the mystic word "Remember"; Elizabeth in
+her haughty way was "exceeding magnifical" at the charges of
+Archbishop Parker, whose wife she declined to call Madam, since
+clergymen had no business with wives. The little square has also
+humbler associations. It has been a bull-ring, where the poor beasts
+were baited "to make them man's meat and fit to be eaten". It has had
+a beautifully carved Market Cross, which gave place to the doubtful
+memorial to Marlowe. The massive oaken doors bear Juxon's coat of
+arms, for he set them up in place of those destroyed by the Puritans.
+They are open; let us pass to the object of our pilgrimage, the great
+Cathedral whose builders built better than they knew, and left for all
+time a history of this land and its faith, written and illuminated in
+stone.
+
+
+
+
+THE CATHEDRAL
+
+
+Once within Christ Church Gate, and in view of the whole southern side
+of the Cathedral, we may pause for a moment and enjoy the vision. That
+central tower, surely for dignity and beauty without its peer in the
+land, took from first to last fifty years in the building, and was
+christened from its first stone the Angel Steeple, from the figure
+with which it was to be crowned, though now, the Angel having taken
+flight, it is usually known as Bell Harry, from the great bell hung in
+it. Mark in the sunshine (for it is a sunny day) the depth and variety
+of shadows and lights on its moulded and sculptured surface. Not
+without pity and indignation do we read that Goldwell, the last of the
+priors who built the gatehouse and completed the tower, begged in
+vain, when a palsied old man, at the dissolution of the convent, to be
+continued in his old home as the first Dean. Nicholas Wotton, a wily
+monk not of the fraternity, whose stone effigy you will see kneeling
+in the Trinity Chapel, was appointed in his stead.
+
+After Bell Harry, the next place in our admiration is due to the
+Norman staircase-turret, somewhat farther east, with arcading so fine
+and decorative as to remind us of arabesque. This turret, with its
+fellow on the north side, and the ruined staircase in the Green Court,
+are Norman work unsurpassed anywhere. The fivelight Decorated window
+of St. Anselm's Chapel is believed by well-qualified judges to be the
+most beautiful instance of early fourteenth-century tracery in the
+country. It is, of course, much later than the chapel, and was
+inserted, in 1336, by Prior Oxenden, whose account states the cost at
+L42, or about L650 of our money, all given by himself and his friends.
+
+On our walk to the Norman turret and St. Anselm's Chapel we notice,
+under the east window of the Warrior's Chapel, a projection like a low
+buttress. It is the foot of Stephen Langton's tomb. He was originally
+buried within, when the chapel was built on to the transept; and later
+laid here, with the altar over his head, and his feet in the open
+ground.
+
+[Illustration: CHRIST CHURCH GATE--ENTRANCE TO CATHEDRAL PRECINCTS
+
+(_Page 24_)]
+
+As we move along the Precincts we are treading on the dust of the
+Cathedral-builders. For all this southern side was a graveyard--of the
+laity as far as St. Anselm's, and of the monks and clergy beyond. The
+two were divided by a wall, in which was set as gateway the gabled
+Norman arch which is now the entrance to the Bowling Green in front of
+us. It is a curious reflection that, in those days of primitive
+transport, these walls and towers were brought stone by stone from the
+quarries at Caen in Normandy. The barges crossed the Channel and were
+unloaded at Fordwych, about two miles from Canterbury. Formerly the
+tides came up the river in considerable volume, and Fordwych was a
+flourishing port with its Mayor and Corporation; and still has its
+queer little town hall, its ducking stool for scolds, and its prison,
+though only a tiny hamlet of one hundred and fifty people. When Louis
+VII of France made his annual grant of 1600 gallons of wine to Christ
+Church Priory, a fee was paid to the Mayor of Fordwych for the use of
+his crane in lifting the barrels from the boats. Not many years ago,
+at an audit of the Chapter Accounts, a yearly item of forty shillings
+was identified as this very fee, which has been regularly paid for
+centuries, after the "Wine of St. Thomas" had been consumed,
+discontinued, and forgotten. Whether this odd survival will more
+interest the historic, or shock the financial, sense of our American
+visitors is a question of psychology.
+
+The nave was not built till the end of the fourteenth century, and is
+therefore one of the latest parts of the church. Of the two western
+towers the northern stood, as built by Lanfranc shortly after the
+Conquest, till 1834. During the excavations preparatory to the
+present structure it is said that the skeletons of a man and two
+bullocks were found in an upright position, as they had sunk into the
+marsh in Norman times. All this side was very marshy, and the crypt of
+the choir was frequently flooded. The ground-level has risen during
+the last few centuries, but is still only some 20 or 30 feet above the
+sea.
+
+Above the outer entrance of the south-west porch is a bas-relief,
+blackened with age, of the altar which, after Becket's murder in the
+Martyrdom, was erected at the spot where he fell. It was called the
+Altar of the Sword's Point; and the fragment of Richard the Breton's
+sword, which dealt the last fierce blow, and was shivered on the
+pavement, is seen here at the foot of the altar. Above it is a
+crucifix with the figures of St. John and the Virgin. The pilgrims
+used to offer their gifts and prayers at three holy places in
+succession, at the "Sword's Point", in the Martyrdom; then at the
+earlier tomb of Becket in the crypt; and lastly at the shrine in the
+Trinity Chapel.
+
+Inside the porch, when Erasmus was here (1513), there were three stone
+figures of the murderers in full armour, "enjoying", he says, "the
+same sort of fame as Judas, Pilate, and Caiaphas". In Saxon times the
+porch served not only as entrance to the church, but also as
+courthouse and muniment room, where the Kings of Kent did justice and
+judgment. Of course the present structure is much later, but both
+porch and nave cover the ground-plan of the ancient church of
+Lanfranc, which had a short choir, and an apse like that of a Roman
+basilica.
+
+Let us enter, and, having looked at the great west window, filled with
+thirteenth-century glass from other parts of the Cathedral, let us
+face eastward, with the vast piers and lofty arches on either hand. We
+see the long flight of steps up to the choir, and perhaps get a
+glimpse, through the door in the screen, of the farther and higher
+flight up to the Holy Table. This long vista, with its double ascent,
+is said to have greatly impressed the mediaeval pilgrims, as indeed it
+still impresses us. There is nothing, I think, elsewhere quite like
+it; and it was doubtless intended to symbolize and accentuate the idea
+of "going up to" the shrine, which was in the exalted Trinity Chapel
+as in a throne-room. Incidentally this unusual elevation of the
+eastern floor of the church made possible one of the finest crypts in
+existence, which for space and dignity is a church in itself.
+
+As we go forward to the choir steps, and stand below the screen and
+under the central tower, there is much to observe. Overhead are the
+carved stone "struts" or crosspieces with which Prior Goldston
+buttressed his piers, and distributed the strain of the tower's
+enormous weight. Their date is marked by the rebus of the builder's
+name T and P (for Thomas, Prior), and between the letters a gilded
+stone. A similar rebus is in the crypt on Cardinal Morton's
+monument--a mort or hawk perched on a tun or barrel.
+
+The great window in the south transept, on our right, belongs to the
+fifteenth century, but is filled with magnificent glass brought from
+the choir clerestory, and 200 years older than the mullions which
+frame it. The corresponding north transept window was filled with
+splendid glass by Edward IV; the ecclesiastical figures in the topmost
+tracery, some borders, and the panels representing the King with his
+two sons who perished in the Tower, and his Queen, Elizabeth
+Woodville, with her daughters, still remain. The eldest girl is
+Elizabeth of York, who married Henry VII, and so ended the feud of
+York and Lancaster. The rest of the glass, which illustrated the life
+of the Virgin, and the miracles of St. Thomas of Canterbury, was
+smashed by the pike of the Puritan miscreant Culmer, who gloried in
+having "rattled down Becket's glassy bones". It is strange that he
+spared three of the unique thirteenth-century Becket windows in the
+Trinity Chapel. It is said that, as he was at work on his ladder, a
+townsman below enquired what he was doing. "The work of the Lord," was
+the reply. "Then if it please the Lord I will help you," and an
+adroit boulder was flung at his head. This may have cooled his zeal;
+but, alas! there is room for misgiving that he ducked his head in
+time. So the happiest hopes of history have sometimes miscarried.
+
+[Illustration: FORDWICH
+
+(_Page 29_)]
+
+On our right, again, is the entrance from the south transept into St.
+Michael's, or the Warriors' Chapel, where the honoured grave of
+Langton, the Magna Charta archbishop, is half inside and half outside,
+the wall striding over him by an arch so that his head should lie
+under the altar. This chapel contains, and was probably enlarged to
+contain, the extremely fine monument of Lady Margaret Holland and her
+two husbands, which is a perfect study of the armour and dress of the
+early fifteenth century. The first husband was Earl of Somerset and
+half-brother of Henry IV, and the second was, curiously, nephew of the
+first and brother of Henry V. The lady outlived them both and placed
+their effigies here with her own between them. She was the
+stepdaughter of the Black Prince.
+
+On our left again, in the north transept, is the far-famed Martyrdom,
+the spot where Becket died and became St. Thomas. Here is the ground
+on which the hunted prelate, powerful in body as in mind, caught up
+Tracy in his full armour and flung him on the pavement. Here is the
+door from the cloister through which Becket came for sanctuary, and
+which he refused to bar against his assailants come for murder--"The
+Church must not be turned into a Castle." Here is the place where the
+slain Archbishop lay, his head "four feet from the wall", where
+afterwards was erected to his memory the Altar of the Sword's Point.
+
+From hence he was carried to the tomb in the crypt, where he lay for
+fifty years until the Translation to the Shrine in Trinity Chapel in
+1220. It is not for me in this brief sketch to tell what has been told
+so dramatically by Stanley in his _Memorials_, and with such
+historical insight by Green in his History. It was a duel between the
+Civil and the Ecclesiastical sovereignties, represented respectively
+by Henry II and his Archbishop; both of them, for all their genius,
+too haughty, violent, and headstrong to bring a difficult controversy
+to a close, or even to a lasting truce.
+
+Before we leave the Martyrdom we must notice the oldest effigy in the
+Cathedral, that of Peckham, Edward I's Archbishop, who died in 1292,
+and beside it that of Wareham, the last archbishop before the
+Reformation, who half yielded to Henry VIII and repented of yielding,
+and in a few months died, partly perhaps of the sore perplexity and
+trouble of the time. A comparison of the two canopies will mark for us
+the advance in decorative art between the thirteenth and the early
+sixteenth centuries. The door into the cloister has its brighter as
+well as its dark memory. For here, at the entrance of what was then
+deemed the most sacred enclosure in the land, was Edward I, that
+great, stern, tender-hearted King, married to Margaret of Anjou, nine
+years after he had lost the wife of whom he wrote: "I loved her
+tenderly in her life; I do not cease to love her now she is dead".
+
+The pilgrims were usually conducted from the altar in the Martyrdom to
+the "Tumba" or first resting place of the "holy blissful martyr",
+which was in the crypt. The whole of the crypt was dedicated to the
+Virgin, and the Chapel of Our Lady of the Undercroft, though now dark
+and deserted, is still enclosed by the lovely stone tracery placed
+round it by the Black Prince as a memorial of his marriage. When
+Erasmus was here he said it was "so loaded with riches" as to be "a
+more than royal spectacle", and he added: "It is shown but to noblemen
+and particular friends". Doubtless though the treasures were hidden
+from the common pilgrim, the altar was always accessible to his
+devotion. Cardinal Morton desired to be buried near the image of Our
+Lady of the Undercroft, and his tomb is close by. He may be remembered
+as the minister of Henry VII and author of _Morton's Fork_. It was an
+eminently successful method of finance, which may remind us of a
+modern Budget. Its principle was that those who spend much can
+obviously afford to pay, and those who spend little can well afford
+the taxation of their savings.
+
+Under the south choir transept is another memorial of the Black
+Prince. It is the double chantry exacted by the Pope as the price of a
+dispensation to marry his cousin. The Prince came to Canterbury
+himself, met the prior and the mason, and gave orders for the work,
+which perhaps included the sculptured face of his beautiful wife in
+one of the bosses of the roof. The chantry, with its two apses for the
+mass priests, is now the Chapel of the French Protestants, who have
+had services here since the royal permission in 1575. After the
+Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1685, the refugees are said to
+have numbered three thousand, and to have gained for Canterbury a
+large trade in silk-weaving and paper-making. Their descendants are
+now merged into the English population, but their names and the weekly
+French service still survive.
+
+[Illustration: ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH
+
+(_Page 20_)]
+
+There have been two comparatively recent discoveries in the crypt. One
+is the well which probably supplied the water for the "ampulles" or
+leaden bottles of the pilgrims, the other is a stone chest containing
+bones which many believe to be the actual remains of Becket. They
+are certainly those of a tall man, placed in a receptacle which was
+not their original coffin, and there is certainly the mark of violence
+on the skull. It has been cogently argued by Dr. Moore, a canon of
+this Cathedral, and Principal of St. Edmund's Hall, Oxford, in a
+lecture which will, I hope, be printed, that as the bones of Dante at
+Ravenna, and of Cuthbert at Durham, were removed from their shrines to
+avoid violation, and others substituted to avoid discovery of the
+removal, so the bones of Becket were removed and hidden by the monks
+in the interval of suspense before the King's final orders arrived.
+They remain where they were found, and the slab above them, though it
+bears no inscription, will be readily pointed out by a guide. Before
+we bid farewell to the crypt we must call to mind one of the earliest
+and greatest of all the pilgrims. In 1174, not quite four years after
+the murder, Henry II, as a barefooted penitent, laid his head on the
+tomb of Becket between those two slender pillars, and gave his back to
+the scourge of the monks and clergy. How far this suffering and
+humiliation, which brought on a serious illness, was dictated by
+penitence and how far by policy will never be known. But urgent
+dangers were closing round the King, which were immediately afterwards
+dissipated in a series of triumphs which he may have thought due to
+miraculous interposition.
+
+Following the track of the pilgrims, we leave the crypt on the south side,
+emerge into the transept, and ascend, along the south choir aisle, by
+steps worn hollow by penitential knees (for it was a kind of _scala
+santa_--a sacred stair) to the Trinity Chapel, the sanctuary of the
+martyr's shrine. Let us try to recall what this was like. It stood in the
+centre of the now vacant space beneath the crescent in the vaulted roof.
+Three steps led up to a platform figured with a kind of mosaic. The lowest
+step, worn by pilgrims' knees, and three of the inlaid "roundles" form
+part of the present pavement. On the platform three arches sustained the
+body of the saint in a gilded and richly wrought coffin. Two of these
+arches, with their columns, were hung with the precious offerings of those
+who had sought or received benefit by the saint's intercession. Through
+the third, suppliants were allowed to pass, that by contact with the
+pillars they might derive some virtue from the relics. The whole was
+enclosed in an elaborate oaken case, which was let down and drawn up by
+ropes and pulleys from above. One of the monks had charge of the
+proceedings--the Mystagogus or Master of the Mysteries, as Erasmus, with a
+touch of mockery, calls him--and when a sufficient concourse had
+assembled he drew up the cover and revealed to the wondering throng all
+the splendour of gold and gems.
+
+Within thirty years of Erasmus's visit every vestige of this
+magnificence was swept away; and so completely were all memorials of
+Becket destroyed that only one representation of the shrine survives.
+This, perhaps, was overlooked, for it is a small panel of stained
+glass, and may be found in the highest group of the central of the
+three thirteenth-century windows on the north side of the Trinity
+Chapel. St. Thomas is mitred and in full canonical vestments, leaning
+from or coming out of his shrine, above a figure lying on a bed or
+couch below. It is a pictorial record of a vision of the saint which
+is related by Benedict, his historian, as having appeared to himself.
+The inscription is _Prodire Feretro_, which fails in grammatical
+construction, but probably is intended to mean _Issuing from the
+Shrine_.
+
+It should be noted that the casket or coffin portrayed elsewhere in
+these windows, is not the great shrine in the Trinity Chapel, but the
+earlier "tumba" at which Henry II did his penance in the crypt. The
+determination of Henry VIII to obliterate everything which could
+minister to the cult was probably due not merely to zeal against
+superstition, but was part of his policy of stamping out the
+resistance of the clergy to common law; for in the history of Becket,
+and in the honour paid to his remains, was the chief support of their
+claim. This throws light on the extraordinary legal process by which,
+more than three hundred years after his death, "Thomas Becket,
+sometime Archbishop of Canterbury", was summoned, tried, and condemned
+for treason, contumacy, and rebellion.
+
+The summons was solemnly read by the shrine, and when, after thirty
+days, no voice or presence had issued from it, the case was formally
+tried at Westminster, sentence pronounced, the bones of the defendant
+were adjudged to be publicly burned, his treasures confiscated to the
+Crown, and his name blotted out of every service-book. Strange as the
+trial of a dead man may seem to us, it was not without precedent. So
+had the dead Wycliffe been cited, and his bones burned. So did Queen
+Mary to the dead Bucer. It is pleasanter to think of the Emperor
+Charles V by the grave of Erasmus. A courtier proposed that he should
+exhume and burn the great scholar "who laid the egg which Luther
+hatched"; the Emperor's fine reply was: "I war not with the dead".
+
+Long before these changes and troubles, when the Chapel of the Shrine
+was the most honoured of the high places in the Cathedral, the Black
+Prince was laid here as the most honoured of its dead; and it is a
+testimony to the tenacious affection of the nation for his memory,
+that no desecrating hand has ever been laid, even in turbulent times,
+on his grave. The armour of the beautiful effigy has lost the gilding
+which once made him a golden knight, but it is fresh and clear in its
+outlines as it was in the fourteenth century. His helm, surcoat,
+gauntlets, shield, and scabbard still hang above him; round his
+resting place is the railing with its six tall iron posts for the
+great candles, which were lit on the anniversaries of his death. What
+tragedies and tumults would have been arrested by his strong hand, had
+he lived, we cannot tell; but a more impressive monument to a more
+beloved memory does not perhaps exist.
+
+A few yards away lies the man who wrested the throne from the Prince's
+son, Richard II, while Canterbury nave was building. Visitors
+sometimes recognize in the portrait-statue of Henry IV, as he lies
+beside his Queen, Joan of Navarre, a curious family likeness to King
+Edward VII, witnessing to the persistence of Plantagenet blood. When
+the vault was opened in 1832 its occupant was found to be in a
+singular state of preservation, with a little simple cross, of two
+twigs tied together, laid upon his breast. The monument is of rare
+artistic merit, as is the chantry close by, which he built for "twey
+preestes" to say masses for his soul.
+
+The next monument eastward of the Black Prince's is Archbishop
+Courtenay's (1396); and beyond this a mean brick mound without
+inscription but not without a history. Here lies Odet de Coligny,
+brother of the great admiral. Though a prince, a cardinal, an
+inquisitor, and a bishop, his sympathies were with the Huguenots, and
+he undertook a mission on their behalf to Queen Elizabeth. In the
+canonical house, formerly known as Master Omer's, at the southeast
+corner of the Precincts, he was poisoned by his servants, whether or
+not by foreign instigation is not known. Those were days when the
+murderer's hand reached far and freely, especially in causes political
+and religious. He was laid here and rudely bricked over, in
+expectation of his removal to France; but the French wars of religion
+left men no leisure to care for their dead. Against the south wall is
+a tomb without inscription and long unidentified. When opened in 1889
+there was found, in full pomp of episcopal vestments, pastoral staff,
+chalice and paten, wearing a ring graven with strange Egyptian
+symbols, Hubert Walter, acclaimed archbishop on the field of Acre and
+afterwards the faithful chancellor who kept the kingdom and raised the
+ransom for Coeur de Lion. Beside him was a collecting box, perhaps
+for Peter's Pence, or for the King's ransom. These relics are kept
+under glass in Henry IV's chantry.
+
+East of Trinity Chapel is the circular space called the Corona, or
+Becket's Crown, either as the head or crown of Becket's church, or, as
+Dr. Cox thinks, because here by the altar to the Trinity was a silver
+bust of Becket containing the fragment of his skull cut off by Richard
+the Breton's sword. The three most famous objects in the Cathedral are
+the site of the shrine, the Black Prince's monument, and the chair of
+St. Augustine; and here is the last of the three. In this seat of
+Purbeck or Bethersden marble have been enthroned from time immemorial
+the Archbishops of Canterbury. If some critics say that it is no older
+than the thirteenth century, others say that it was in existence in
+the sixth century, when Augustine arrived, and that Kentish kings were
+crowned on it. It has always a place in the triple enthronement of an
+Archbishop of Canterbury. He is seated on the throne in the choir as
+Diocesan Bishop, in the chapter house as titular Abbot, and in St.
+Augustine's chair as Primate of All England.
+
+The pilgrims were conducted from Trinity Chapel back to the nave,
+along the south choir aisle, where the steps still show the marks of
+the two iron gates which divided the ascending from the descending
+stream. We, however, will take the north choir aisle, which was
+strictly reserved for monks, clerics, and officials, and find our way
+into the choir. The pavement is still that of Lanfranc or Anselm, for,
+when any part of it is taken up, bits of lead are found which fell
+melted from the roof, in the great fire of 1174. Facing east by the
+archbishop's throne we see the monuments of six archbishops. Nearest
+on our right is Cardinal Kemp, who was with Henry V at Agincourt; then
+Stratford, the opponent of Edward III; and lastly Simon Sudbury, who
+built Westgate and lost his head. Nearest on our left is the gorgeous
+tomb of Chicheley, who, in old age, was stricken with remorse for
+having instigated Henry V's French campaigns in order to distract
+attention from Lollard schemes for confiscating Church property. He
+founded All Souls College, Oxford, to pray for the souls of those who
+fell in the wars, and the Warden still renews, when needed, the
+colour-decoration of his monument. Then Howley, who crowned Queen
+Victoria, and finally Bourchier, who crowned Edward IV, Richard III,
+and Henry VII, and, by wedding the latter to Elizabeth of York,
+terminated the Wars of the Roses.
+
+[Illustration: WESTGATE
+
+(_Page 13_)]
+
+In Canterbury Cathedral have been buried some fifty archbishops, the
+Black Prince, Henry IV, two queens, and many others of royalty or
+distinction. Of the old monuments only about eighteen are left. The
+great fires of 1067 and 1174, the violence of men, and the ravages of
+time have all taken their toll.
+
+Of the architectural history of the Cathedral, deeply interesting as
+it is, little can here be said. It may be summed up as a happy
+alternation of destructive fires and vigorous priors, aided by
+munificent archbishops and master masons of genius. There is no
+history of the first Christian settlement in these islands; but we
+dimly descry a Roman, and on its foundations a Saxon building which
+lasted till the Conquest Then came a fire, and with it Lanfranc's
+opportunity. He had driving power, and in the brief period of seven
+years (1070-7) built a stone Cathedral over the Roman and Saxon ground
+plans, adding a short choir and western towers of which one remained
+till 1834.
+
+Only twenty years after Lanfranc, Anselm, greatly daring, pulled down
+most of his choir, and with his prior, Ernulf, began a slightly wider
+and much longer choir, extending about as far as the present Holy
+Table. This came to be known as "the glorious choir of Conrad", from
+the name of the prior who completed it. Anselm's or Ernulf's work
+still remains as part of the present crypt. In 1174, a hundred years
+later, the year of Henry II's penance at Becket's tomb, the whole
+church was ruined by the most devastating fire in its annals. How
+severe was the blow, both to monks and people, we may learn from
+Gervase, who was an eyewitness and one of the fraternity. The people
+"tore their hair and beat the walls and pavement of the church with
+their heads and hands, blaspheming the Lord and his Saints"; the monks
+"wailed and howled rather than sang their daily and nightly services"
+in the roofless nave.
+
+French William, the designer of the Cathedral at Sens in Normandy, was
+chosen for the restoration; and the mark of his handiwork is plainly
+to be seen in the resemblances between the two churches. Genius
+transforms hindrances into triumphs. French William's difficulty was
+that the side chapels of St. Andrew and St. Anselm, built on the arc
+of the old apse, were too near together to admit of the full width of
+his new and longer choir. He kept the chapels, contracted the choir at
+their nearest points and then expanded it into the Trinity Chapel,
+with the remarkable effect which strikes every observer.
+
+When his work was partly accomplished, and he was on the scaffolding
+to prepare for the turning of the vault, he fell with a mass of timber
+and stone from a height of 50 feet, and was disabled for life. He
+chose for his successor another man of genius, known as English
+William, one of his staff, "small of body, but in many kinds of
+workmanship acute and honest", who added to his master's design the
+great uplift of the floor of the Trinity Chapel and completed that and
+the Corona or Becket's Crown. Since 1185 no substantial alteration has
+been made in the eastern half of the Cathedral.
+
+If the reader desires to know the chief sources of our information
+about the early history of Canterbury Cathedral, the reply is in
+itself a picture of the times. Eadmer was a boy in the convent school
+before the Conquest, and singer or precentor in Lanfranc's choir of
+monks. He also lived through the rule of Anselm.
+
+Gervase was a monk of Christ Church when Becket died in the Martyrdom.
+He witnessed the fire of 1174, the desolation it left behind, and the
+immortal achievements of French William and of his English namesake.
+Eadmer and Gervase have both left us narratives, not umixed with
+monkish legend, but faithful and full of curious information.
+
+It is not easy for us to understand the veneration paid to relics; yet
+from that veneration sprang all the glories of the Cathedral. And when
+we read in these old chronicles, translated from Latin in Willis'
+_Architectural History_, of the desperate, almost agonized labours of
+the monks to save from fire, weather, or dishonour the remains of
+their buried saints, we shall withhold our scorn for their
+superstition, and find less surprising the immense sums paid in the
+Middle Age for the arm or skull of a dead man.
+
+The earlier Saxon archbishops were laid in the ground of St.
+Augustine's Abbey, which thus accumulated a store of sanctity which
+roused the sore jealousy of their Christ Church brethren. Accordingly
+in the eighth century Cuthbert obtained a secret permission from the
+Pope to be buried in the Cathedral. His death was not divulged until
+he was safely interred, and when the monks of St. Augustine's came to
+demand as usual the body of the dead archbishop, they were met with
+derisive shouts, and the brandishing of the Papal decree. Thus Gervase
+records that Cuthbert, "being endowed with great wisdom, procured for
+Christ Church the right of free sepulture".
+
+[Illustration: THE GATEWAY, ST. AUGUSTINE'S ABBEY
+
+(_Page 51_)]
+
+There is at least one "secret chamber" in the Cathedral for the hiding
+away of relics or of treasures. This is the Chapel of St. Gabriel in
+the crypt. The entrance was through a hole which was entirely
+concealed by an outside altar. This chapel was so successfully hidden
+that the monk Gervase was evidently ignorant of its existence in the
+twelfth century; and its roof is covered with very curious painting
+of that date, which the darkness (for there is no window) has kept
+in remarkable preservation. There is also a room, over the Treasury,
+accessible only by a door opening 6 feet above the floor of St.
+Andrew's Chapel, requiring therefore a ladder as means of approach.
+But it was never a really secret chamber, and was probably at one time
+entered by an ordinary stone stairway.
+
+
+
+
+THE MONASTIC BUILDINGS
+
+
+It must be remembered that Canterbury Cathedral was originally the
+church or chapel of the monastery. The people were admitted to the
+nave, but only monks and clergy took any official part in the
+services, or entered the choir, which was the sanctuary of the
+Brotherhood. Indeed the entire Precincts belonged to them; and though
+they allowed the ground near the Christ Church Gate to be used as a
+general churchyard, or "exterior cemetery", entrance to the inner
+Precincts was only by permission or invitation. The present boundary
+of this monkish domain on the south and east is the old fortified wall
+of the city, but formerly the monastery had an interior wall of its
+own, running parallel to it, and leaving a space or lane about 14 feet
+wide, for the carrying of munitions and provisions to the defenders of
+the outer wall, and of materials for its repair.
+
+The unique remnant of this lane is known as Quenengate or Queeningate
+Lane, and if we can borrow a canon's key and pass through the Norman
+archway of the Bowling Green, near the east end of the Cathedral, we
+may see not only Queeningate Lane but also the postern door in the
+outer wall through which Queen Bertha, in the sixth century, went to
+her daily prayer at St. Martin's. Nay, as we open that door we are
+face to face with the turreted fourteenth-century gateway of St.
+Augustine's, founded by and named after the great man, and once
+ranking second only to Subiaco among the Benedictine monasteries of
+Europe. Time was when St. Augustine's looked down upon Christ Church,
+as upon a little brother who should not presume. When, at the
+invitation of Edward I, Archbishop Peckham went to the Abbey to dine,
+he was refused admission, unless he would lower his cross or crozier
+on entering. He declined this indignity, and was absent from the royal
+dinner-party. Ethelbert's Tower, a splendid remnant of the Norman
+abbey church, stood till 1822, when it was battered down by the
+Philistines to provide cheap building material and make room for a
+tea-garden. In Bede's time this church had a tomb inscribed: "Here
+resteth the Lord Augustine, first Archbishop of Canterbury A.D. 605".
+To share the sanctity of a spot so consecrated, saints, nobles, and
+kings were brought hither on their last journey. Cuthbert turned the
+tide when he so cunningly gained the right of sepulture for Christ
+Church, and eventually, as we know, Becket's shrine quite eclipsed St.
+Augustine's. After the dissolution the abbey became for a time a
+royal lodge, and Queen Elizabeth and the First and Second Charles have
+occupied the guest-chamber over the gateway.
+
+Returning to the Precincts, we are again reminded that the makers of
+Canterbury were the pilgrims and the monks. Of the three houses on our
+right, the first is Master Omer's, the guest-house for pilgrims where
+Odet de Coligny was murdered; the second incorporates part of the
+infirmary; the third was its frater and kitchen; while the long arcade
+of ruins, still reddened with the fire of 700 years ago, and
+stretching along the north side of the choir to the Dark Entry, was
+the monks' hospital.
+
+So vast an infirmary as this, with its chapel at one end and cloister
+at the other, for a community of 100 to 150 monks, seems at first
+unaccountable. This and some other things we shall understand better
+when we have walked through the infirmary cloister, and along
+Lanfranc's vaulted passage to the great or main Cloister of the
+convent. This was the centre of the whole monastic life, in which the
+monks spent the greater part of the day, and from which doors gave
+access to every part of the building, dining hall or frater,
+dormitories, cellarer's stores and lodging, deportum or recreation
+room, chapter house for business and discipline, Cathedral choir
+for worship, infirmary for the sick or weary. Here they read and
+wrote, here they learned and taught, here were chronicles completed,
+missals illuminated, and various tasks of hand or head performed under
+the direction of the superiors.
+
+[Illustration: GATEWAY OF ST. JOHN'S HOSPITAL
+
+(_Page 56_)]
+
+Yet with all its splendour of traceried arch it is a comfortless
+place. Not until a few years before the fall of the monastery was it
+glazed even on one side. In the long summers and hot sunshine of
+Italy, where the Benedictine order took its rise, it was natural
+enough to build for coolness and air; hence not only the open alleys
+of the cloister, but also its situation on the north side of the
+church. It is possible that at Canterbury there was some difficulty
+about space on the south side; certainly in a chilly climate open
+cloisters hidden from the sun by a mountain of masonry must have
+inflicted much hardship on the monks, and added to the austerities of
+their ascetic life. They were a delicate and short-lived race, usually
+failing to attain forty years of age, and compelled by statute to
+spend three days of each month in the infirmary, independently of
+occasional recourse thither for ailments and for being bled, which was
+regarded as periodically necessary. Ordericus Vitalis, a monkish
+historian living in Normandy, says several times in his chronicle:
+"The winter has now come, and my fingers are so numbed by the cold
+that I can write no more till the spring". Visiting members of other
+convents were not asked to share the full discipline, but were
+hospitably lodged in the infirmary as the most comfortable quarters.
+Moreover, epidemics occurred, as in 1348, the year of the Black Death,
+when Archbishop Bradwardine died of the Plague within a few weeks of
+his installation, and half the nation perished. So the infirmary was
+probably not too large after all. It must not be forgotten that
+silence was strictly enjoined in the Cloister, so that to the agonies
+of cold hands and feet was added the privation, with which we cannot
+fail to sympathize, of being unable to talk about the inclemency of
+the weather.
+
+In the cloister garth are two graves perhaps as well worth visiting as
+ever Becket's was, though no miracles have yet occurred at them. They
+are those of Archbishop Temple and Dean Farrar.
+
+If we retrace our way along Lanfranc's gloomy passage to the infirmary
+cloister, where guests and invalid brethren took the air, and turn to
+the left along the Dark Entry, by the ruins of the Lord Prior's
+Lodging and Chequer House or Office, we emerge into the Green Court.
+Here servants had their quarters, and at the great gate of the convent
+received guests and pilgrims. Those of distinction they conducted to
+Master Omer's, those of middle rank to Chillenden Chambers or the
+vanished New Lodging; the common wayfarers ascended that lovely and
+unique Norman staircase to the Great North Hall. These had to bring
+their own bedding and cooking utensils, like the steerage passengers
+in an emigrant ship; and their hall was kitchen, parlour, and bedroom
+in one, so that its superb approach was no measure of the quality of
+its accommodation. The cowl or habit of a monk would rarely be seen in
+the Green Court. It belonged too much to the outside world and the
+secular life.
+
+Before we ourselves return to that outside world let us turn
+southwards for a moment for a view that we shall not easily forget.
+Below the immense mass and broken outlines of the church, and flanked
+by ruins of cloister and dormitory, we see across a little breadth of
+lawn the picturesque octagonal tower called the Baptistery. It was
+really a monks' lavatory, and the centre of the water supply. For,
+strange as it may be to our conceited modern ears, the monks had from
+the twelfth century an elaborate system of waterworks, and probably
+owed to this their comparatively small mortality during the
+visitations of plague. There still exists a twelfth-century plan
+showing the various pipes, tanks, and basins, for drinking, washing,
+or cooking. So the little octagonal tower, as so often happens, was
+useful as well as beautiful. And if the chart which indicates the path
+of every pipe and runnel, and the place of every layer for personal
+ablution, fails to indicate any laundry for the washing of
+clothes--why, the monks wore all-wool garments, and did not think
+fastidiousness a virtue. Let us hope for the best.
+
+So we pass the Convent Gate and cross the Mintyard. This is now a
+"quad" of the King's School, but archbishops till Cranmer exercised
+here their right of coinage. From the Mintyard we step back into a
+rather squalid street of a modern world. But the house just opposite
+is old enough to have housed pilgrims, and two or three hundred yards
+along Northgate Street, to our right, is the fifteenth-century
+timbered archway of St. John's Hospital, shown in our illustration.
+St. John's was founded before the days of the pilgrims as a nook of
+safety and peace for the aged poor, and this it still remains. How
+many wearied souls have bidden here their long farewell to Canterbury!
+We, too, will bid our farewell, less solemn, and not without hope of
+return, but still with regret. If these pages and pictures enable you,
+reader, to revisit in spirit the place of your pilgrimage, they will
+have accomplished their end.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Beautiful England
+
+
+BATH AND WELLS
+BOURNEMOUTH AND CHRISTCHURCH
+CAMBRIDGE
+CANTERBURY
+CHESTER AND THE DEE
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+DARTMOOR
+DICKENS-LAND
+THE DUKERIES
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+EXETER
+FOLKESTONE AND DOVER
+HAMPTON COURT
+HASTINGS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+HEREFORD AND THE WYE
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT
+THE NEW FOREST
+NORWICH AND THE BROADS
+OXFORD
+THE PEAK DISTRICT
+RIPON AND HARROGATE
+SCARBOROUGH
+SHAKESPEARE-LAND
+SWANAGE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+THE THAMES
+WARWICK AND LEAMINGTON
+THE HEART OF WESSEX
+WINCHESTER
+WINDSOR CASTLE
+YORK
+
+
+LONDON
+
+THE HEART OF LONDON
+THROUGH LONDON'S HIGHWAYS
+IN LONDON'S BY-WAYS
+RAMBLES IN GREATER LONDON
+
+
+
+Beautiful Scotland
+
+
+EDINBURGH
+THE SHORES OF FIFE
+THE SCOTT COUNTRY
+LOCH LOMOND, LOCH KATRINE,
+  AND THE TROSSACHS
+
+
+
+Beautiful Ireland
+
+
+CONNAUGHT
+LEINSTER
+MUNSTER
+ULSTER
+
+
+
+Beautiful Switzerland
+
+
+CHAMONIX
+LAUSANNE
+LUCERNE
+VILLARS AND CHAMPERY
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BLACKIE & SON LTD., 50 OLD BAILEY, LONDON, AND 17 STANHOPE STREET,
+GLASGOW BLACKIE & SON (INDIA) LTD. BOMBAY; BLACKIE & SON (CANADA)
+LTD., TORONTO
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Canterbury, by Canon Danks
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