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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Canterbury + +Author: Canon Danks + +Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust + +Release Date: February 15, 2011 [EBook #35276] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANTERBURY *** + + + + +Produced by Sankar Viswanathan, Juliet Sutherland, and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="500" height="705" alt="" title="" /> +</div> +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="Frontispiece" id="Frontispiece"></a> +<img src="images/image_001.jpg" width="500" height="741" alt="THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS + +Frontispiece" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CANTERBURY WEAVERS +(<a href="#Page_12">Page 12</a>)</span> +</div> +<p> </p> + + +<h1>CANTERBURY</h1> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2>DESCRIBED BY CANON DANKS</h2> +<h2>PICTURED BY E. W. HASLEHUST</h2> +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/seal.jpg" width="300" height="462" alt="" title="" /> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h3>BLACKIE & SON LIMITED</h3> +<h4>LONDON AND GLASGOW</h4> + + + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + + + +<table summary="List of Illustrations"> +<tr><td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td><td class="tocpg f1">Facing Page</td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Frontispiece">The Canterbury Weavers</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><i><a href="#Frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></i></td> +</tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_1">St. Nicholas, Harbledown</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_2">Canterbury from the Stour</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_3">The Greyfriars' House</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_4">Mercery Lane</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_5">Canterbury Cathedral from Christ Church Gate</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_6">Christ Church Gate, Entrance to Cathedral Precincts</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_7">Fordwich</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_8">St. Martin's Church</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_9">Westgate</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_10">The Gateway, St. Augustine's Abbey</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#Pic_11">Gateway of St. John's Hospital</a></td> + <td> </td> + <td> </td> + <td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr> +</table> + + + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/image_002.jpg" width="700" height="355" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2>THE CITY</h2> + + +<p>This little essay on a great subject is neither a guidebook nor a +history, though it may, for many, be enough, for their purpose, of +both. With its illustrations of ancient and famous scenes it is, let +us say, a keepsake or memorial for some of the hundred thousand +pilgrims who still annually visit Canterbury, and fall under the spell +of its enchantments. It may recall to them in distant homes, some of +them overseas, the thrill with which they first beheld the mother-city +of English Christianity, the great church, inwoven with so much of +English history, which in the Middle Ages contained one of the most +venerated and far-sought shrines in Europe.</p> + +<p>There are certainly not more than one or two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> cities in the kingdom +which rival Canterbury in interest, or bring back to us more vividly +"the days that are no more". Here is the work of pre-historic man in +the Dane John (variant of Donjon or stronghold) and long earthen +rampart which guarded the ford of the Stour. Here are the bastions and +parapet of the city wall, with which the soldiers of the Middle Ages +faced and fortified the British earthwork. Here is Saxon building with +Roman materials, as in the churches of St. Pancras and St. Martin, +where Roman bricks abound, and Roman columns, perhaps of some +forgotten heathen temple, are not wanting. In the Roman cemeteries +outside the walls have been found bracelets, pins, mirrors, +horse-bits, coins, even rouge-pots. Hither converged the Roman roads +from the military ports of Richborough, Dover, and Lympne (now high +and dry). Along these roads for some four hundred years tramped the +Roman legionaries under their centurions, entering and leaving the +city respectively by the streets now known as Burgate, Watling Street, +and Wincheap. Here dwelt, in the sixth century, Queen Bertha, +foster-mother of English Christianity, with her heathen husband +Ethelbert, King of Kent; and here, in the new era which dated from the +arrival of Augustine's monkish procession with its silver cross and +painted Christ (as told once for all by Dean Stanley), these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> three +laboured at that "building without hands" of which the Cathedral is an +outward type and embodiment. Hither converged in mediæval times the +Pilgrims' Ways, still partly traceable on the ordnance map, from +London, as in Chaucer's Tales, from Southampton, and from Sandwich.</p> + +<p>On July 7, the feast of the Translation of Becket's bones from the +Crypt to the Trinity Chapel, and especially at the Great Pardons or +Jubilees of the Feast every fifty years, from 1220 to 1520, these ways +were crowded with pilgrims, English or foreign, on foot or on +horseback, sick or whole, sad or merry, intent on paying homage and +receiving a blessing, above all of winning the promised plenary +indulgence at the miracle-working shrine. From the offerings of these +pilgrims came in great measure the huge sums of money which enabled +the monks to extend and exalt their church to its present +magnificence. In 1220, the first of the Great Pardons, it has been +estimated that 100,000 pilgrims offered £20,000 of our money; and this +did not include the stream of worshippers and gifts that flowed on +other days of the year. If we add to these "devotions of the people" +the splendid generosity of the monks and clergy, we begin to +understand how the Cathedral was paid for. Lanfranc gave the whole +revenues of the manor of East Peckham, bestowed on him by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> William the +Conqueror; and he was but the first of a series of munificent +archbishops.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_1" id="Pic_1"></a> +<img src="images/image_003.jpg" width="800" height="546" alt="ST. NICHOLAS, HARBLEDOWN" /> +<span class="caption">ST. NICHOLAS, HARBLEDOWN +(<a href="#Page_10">Page 10</a>)</span></div> + +<p>It is one of the curiosities of history, though by no means without +parallel, that these lavish gifts and this energy of costly building +continued up to the very edge of doom. The great central tower, the +Angel Steeple or Bell Harry, was not finished till 1490; Christ Church +Gatehouse not till 1517; Henry VIII himself made offerings at the +shrine in 1520. In 1538 he gave orders to plunder the shrine and burn +Becket's bones, and in 1540 the monastery was dissolved.</p> + +<p>It may be as well here to give some idea of the value of the spoil. +"The official return of the actual gold of the shrine was 4994-3/4 +oz., the gilt plate weighed 4425 oz., the parcel gilt 840 oz., and the +plain silver 5286 oz." But Erasmus, who visited Canterbury in 1513, +writes: "The least valuable portion was gold; every part glistened, +shone, and sparkled with rare and very large jewels, some of them +exceeding the size of a goose's egg.... The principal of them were +offerings sent by sovereign princes." As, for instance, the golden cup +presented by Louis VII of France in 1179, and the Royal Jewel of +France, an immense ruby or carbuncle, given by the same Prince, which +afterwards figured in a great ring on Henry's portentous thumb, and +(we are rather<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> surprised to learn) in the necklace of his Roman +Catholic daughter Mary. There were crucifixes, statuettes, and +ornaments of precious metal; there were innumerable gems, so that the +last visitor at the shrine, in the very year of its destruction, +declared "that if she had not seen it, all the men in the world could +never a' made her to believe it".</p> + +<p>We are scarcely surprised, therefore, to hear of the two large chests +with which seven or eight men staggered out of the church, or of the +twenty-six cartloads of vestments, plate, and other Cathedral property +which were dispatched to London. The total value of Henry's +confiscations from this church and priory is thought to have been not +less than three million pounds of our money. For more than three +hundred years there had been, outside Rome, no more famous place of +pilgrimage, no more wonderful treasury of gifts and relics. One can +guess the thoughts of the "sovereign princes" and other devout donors, +when their costly offerings and those of their ancestors were poured +pell-mell into the gaping coffers of the English king. It is less easy +to guess the thoughts of the Canterbury citizens and other English +folk who looked on with scarcely a protest. Some probably were cowed, +and some sympathetic. Perhaps a dim consciousness was waking in the +minds of the people, that monasticism and relic-worship had outlived<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +their day of service, and that a new age was at hand. Even under Queen +Mary no attempt was made to replace the shrine or renew the +pilgrimages.</p> + +<p>Let us, however, be as pilgrims ourselves—Chaucer's if you will—and +enter the city along their ancient well-trodden way from the Tabard +Inn at Southwark. Only we will start a short mile and a half from +Canterbury at the Leper Hospital of Harbledown. It is now a group of +modern almshouses, but still has its prior and sub-prior, as in the +days when the lepers lived under the shadow of Lanfranc's Church of +St. Nicholas, which they were forbidden to enter. This church and the +square-timbered entrance by the porter's lodge are shown in our +illustration.</p> + +<p>An aged bedesman, on the steps to this garden porch, would greet the +travellers in the road with a shower of sprinkled holy water, and hold +out to be kissed by them a crystal set in the upper leather of the +martyred Becket's shoe. The upper leather is gone, perhaps kissed +away, but the crystal is still shown in the hospital, set in an old +bowl of maple-wood. Erasmus and Colet came here in 1513, and were +invited to do as others. They were scholars and thinkers, full of the +new learning, and therefore scornful of the sanctity of slippers and +bones. They declined—Colet rather crossly; Erasmus (tolerant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> soul) +with a humorous twinkle and a kindly coin for the bedesman's box which +is still to be seen within.</p> + +<p>A few steps onward up the steep little Harbledown Hill and we have a +view of Canterbury Cathedral across the River Stour—a view which has +delighted the eye and heart of many pilgrims, whether ancient or +modern. Nearly a mile downhill and we come to St. Dunstan's Church in +the environs of Canterbury. Here in a vault is the head of a nobler +martyr than Becket—of a man with all Becket's constancy and faith, +with more than Becket's intellect, and without his haughty spirit and +violent temper. All the world knows how the head of Sir Thomas More, +one of the best and wisest of Englishmen, was set on London Bridge as +the head of a traitor, and how, after fourteen days of this ignominy, +it secretly passed into the possession of his daughter, Margaret +Roper. It is less generally known that she finally placed it in the +Roper vault in St. Dunstan's.</p> + +<p>On the opposite side of the road, a little nearer the town, is the old +brick archway which was once the approach to Margaret Roper's house, +and beneath which father and daughter, who loved each other dearly, +must often have passed together.</p> + +<p>We have all been with David Copperfield and his aunt to Mr. +Wickfield's house in Canterbury—"A<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> very old house bulging out over +the road; a house with long, low lattice windows bulging out still +farther, and beams with carved heads on the ends bulging out too; so +that I fancied that the whole house was leaning forward, trying to see +who was passing on the pavement below".</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_2" id="Pic_2"></a> +<img src="images/image_004.jpg" width="800" height="546" alt="CANTERBURY FROM THE STOUR" /> +<span class="caption">CANTERBURY FROM THE STOUR + +<a href="#Page_11">(Page 11)</a></span></div> + +<p>Nowhere in the country will you find so many of these old houses; some +of them in part dating back to the fourteenth century; and Dickens +felt the charm of them. Many are now hidden behind ugly modern fronts, +but many are yet unspoiled. Doubtless some of these in St. Dunstan's +Street took in belated pilgrims who arrived after curfew and the +shutting of the city gate.</p> + +<p>Just outside Westgate is the old Falstaff Inn, with its sign suspended +from a remarkable bracket of fifteenth-century ironwork. This reminds +us that before the era of coal mining in the north, Kentish men were +craftsmen in iron, obtaining unlimited fuel from the forest of the +Weald. Doubtless there were Kentish pikes and blades, Kentish helmets +and hauberks, at Cressy and Poitiers, at Agincourt, in the Wars of the +Roses, and at Flodden. While we are looking at old houses let us pass +through Westgate (we will return in a moment) and visit the Canterbury +Weavers, shown in our illustration. It rises sheer from the water, and +its windows "bulge"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> over the water, where the river crosses the +street near Eastbridge Hospital. It is, in spite of repairs and +restorations, a fifteenth-century building, and, as viewed from the +bridge, not less picturesque than a nook of Bruges or Ghent.</p> + +<p>Eastbridge Hospital, just opposite, belongs to the thirteenth and +fourteenth centuries, but is not a specimen of domestic architecture. +It is a charitable foundation which survived Tudor confiscations +through the intercession of Cranmer, and still shelters its aged poor. +Somewhat farther, on the same side, is No. 37, a French silk-weaver's +house, built in the fifteenth century for one of the refugees from +religious persecution. It is almost unchanged: the ground floor is the +shop, the first floor is for the family and the loom, and the story +above has its door for receiving the bales of silk hauled up from the +street.</p> + +<p>We must not wander farther without turning to look at Westgate, the +last remaining of Canterbury's seven city gates and the best thing of +its kind in the kingdom. With its round flanking towers and its +massive portal, it takes us back in a moment to the fourteenth +century, and makes us wonder and sigh that citizens could have had the +heart to destroy its fellows. For even as late as the beginning of the +nineteenth century the walls and gates of the ancient town were almost +intact. With grim amusement, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>not unmixed with disgust, we recall the +story that once the Town Council was equally divided on the +proposition that it should be pulled down to admit the huge caravans +of Wombwell's Wild Beast Show. It was saved only by the casting vote +of the Mayor, to whose common sense it occurred to make a way round +it. And that Mayor, not the least of Canterbury's worthies, is not +even yet commemorated by—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i8">"Colossal bust<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Or column trophied for triumphal show".<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>There was an earlier Norman gateway here with, oddly as it seems to +us, the Church of the Holy Cross on the top of it. In 1380 Archbishop +Simon Sudbury built the present structure and found ground space +beside it for the church. And thereby hangs a tale. Sudbury was not +only a munificent builder, but a man of vigorous mind, wise before his +time. He overtook a company of pilgrims nearing this gate, and spoke +to them very plainly on the matter of relics and pilgrimages, +declaring that no Pope or plenary indulgence could avail without the +contrite heart and the changed life. This was, be it remembered, 150 +years before the Reformation, and not even from a bishop could such a +doctrine be received. The fury of the crowd found voice in the curse +flung<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> then and there upon the preacher by one of the Kentish gentry: +"My Lord Bishop, for this act of yours, stirring the people to +sedition against St. Thomas, I stake the salvation of my soul that you +will close your life by a most terrible death". "From the beginning of +the world", adds the Chronicler, "it never has been heard that anyone +ever injured the Cathedral of Canterbury and was not punished by the +Lord." Eleven years later, for his share in the hated Poll-tax, the +Archbishop was dragged out of the Tower of London by the rebels under +Wat Tyler and beheaded. His body was buried in the choir of the +Cathedral, and when uncovered accidentally was found to have a leaden +ball in the place of the head, which is still preserved at his native +Sudbury.</p> + +<p>From Westgate the main street, under as many <i>aliases</i> as a hardened +criminal, starting as St. Peter's Street, continuing as High Street, +Parade, and St. George's Street, runs the whole length of the city, +with quaint and curious dwellings on either hand. If we were real +pilgrims, and had walked or ridden all the way from London, we should +make at once for "The Chequers of the Hope" mentioned in the +supplementary Canterbury Tale. It is only a few hundred yards away, +where Mercery Lane turns off to the left, and has, or had, its +dormitory of a hundred beds. Alas! it was burned down in 1865, and we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +shall recognize it only by a modern carving of the Black Prince's +crest—the leopard with protruding tongue—on the stone corner of the +house where the two streets meet.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Pic_3" id="Pic_3"></a> +<img src="images/image_005.jpg" width="600" height="867" alt="THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE" /> +<span class="caption">THE GREYFRIARS' HOUSE + +<a href="#Page_18">(Page 16)</a></span></div> + + +<p>As, however, we are but amateur pilgrims, and not very tired, we will +loiter about the city. Let us ask Mr. Pierce's permission to trespass +in his Franciscan Gardens in Stour Street, near the Post Office. For +there we shall find, neglected and decayed, but still beautiful with a +sad and ruined beauty, the last monument of the Greyfriars or +Franciscans, once the most popular of the monastic orders. It is a +little house which occupies no ground, for it is built on arches over +a branch of the Stour, and its slender supporting pillars rise from +the middle of the river bed. As we consider it, we may remember the +story of Elizabeth Barton "The Holy Maid of Kent", the devout, +visionary, hysterical girl, promoted from a kitchen to a nunnery, who, +amongst other and harmless or edifying revelations, felt bidden to +denounce the King's divorce from Katherine, and was taken, or bravely +went, to Henry to tell him so.</p> + +<p>The poor creature was executed at Tyburn with some six of her +teachers, confessors, and abettors, amongst them the warden and one of +the brethren of Greyfriars, who must often have gone in and out of +this battered doorway. Let us add, to the credit of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> luckless Anne +Boleyn, that she alone of all concerned had the grace to intercede +with her royal tiger on the girl's behalf. There is a perhaps more +attractive memory clinging to the place. In the seventeenth century +here, for a time, lived Richard Lovelace, the handsomest man of his +time—the Royalist poet who wrote two of the best songs in the +language, the gay cavalier who died in want and despair because his +lady-love, on his reported death, married another man. He may have +written "Going to the Wars" in this very house—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"I could not love thee, dear, so much<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Loved I not honour more".<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>But "To Althea"—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Stone walls do not a prison make,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nor iron bars a cage",<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>he wrote while imprisoned by the House of Commons for presenting a +Kentish Petition on behalf of King Charles.</p> + +<p>While we are thinking of poets, and their not infrequent tendency (in +the past) to a bad end, we may as well walk up High Street. Various +epochs and ages look down upon us on either side, though too often +through modern windows. Near the top, on the right-hand side, we shall +find a very old house <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>with a very new front, and the business label +of Achille Serre. This is the birthplace of Christopher Marlowe, one +of the nest of Elizabethan singing-birds—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"With mouth of gold, and morning in his eyes",<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>who, perhaps, had a hand in Shakespeare's <i>Henry VI</i>. He was born in +the same year as Shakespeare, and, in spite of a reckless life and +early death, came nearer to him in power than any other dramatist of +the day. He was killed in a tavern brawl before he was thirty, but +found time to write immortal things, amongst them "The Passionate +Pilgrim":</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Come live with me and be my love",<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>a quite other sort of pilgrim than those who sought Becket's shrine.</p> + +<p>It is said that he was an "atheist", and that the tavern dagger was +just in time to save him from imminent risk of stake and faggot. This +naturally leads us from his birthplace, along St. George's Terrace, +which is really the old earthwork faced with mediæval stone, to the +spot where atheists, heretics, traitors, and witches used to meet +their fate. This is the Dane John already mentioned as a pre-historic +mound. Dr. Cox, in his volume on Canterbury in the "Ancient Cities" +series, gives the following extract from the city accounts touching +the death on the Dane John<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> of one John Stone, an Austin friar, who +denied that the Sovereign was Supreme Head of the Church:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Paid for half a tonne of tymber to make a payre of Gallaces +to hang Fryer Stone. For a Carpenter for making the same +Gallaces and the dray. For a labourer who digged the holes. +To iiij men who holp set up the Gallaces. For drynk to them. +For carriage of tymber from Stablegate to the Dongeon. For +ij men that sett the Ketyl and parboyled hym. To ij men that +caryed his quarters to the gate and set them up. For a +halter to hang hym. For two halfpenny halters. For Sandwich +cord. For Strawe. To the woman that scowred the Ketyll. To +hym that dyd execucion iiijs viijd."</p></div> + +<p>Friar Stone, it is to be feared, is only one of a long procession of +tortured ghosts who might meet us where the children play on the Dane +John. But it was not always the place of execution, it came to be a +coign of vantage from which the orthodox (for the time being) could +comfortably view, not without lunch-baskets, what went on in Martyr's +Field, now marked with an obelisk a little to the south-west of the +mound. Here were forty, men, women, and children, "brent" or burnt at +the stake in the reign of Queen Mary for asserting what Friar Stone +denied. Their names are carved in granite on the spot where they died, +and the motto on the monument is: "Lest We Forget".</p> + +<p>From the Dane John we may return along the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> earthen rampart by the +city wall to St. George's Street, and ask our way to St. Martin's, +believed by competent enquirers to be the oldest church not only in +England, but in Europe. It certainly existed in the sixth century, +when Queen Bertha came to its services through the postern still known +as Quenengate. Bede, the father of English history and the most +learned man of the seventh century, says that there was a Christian +church here during the Roman occupation. As the Romans left in 410, +this gives a record of fifteen centuries of worship on this site. Here +King Ethelbert was baptized by Augustine, and a representation of this +event graven on an ancient seal gives a font much resembling the one +still in use.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Pic_4" id="Pic_4"></a> +<img src="images/image_006.jpg" width="600" height="873" alt="MERCERY LANE" /> +<span class="caption">MERCERY LANE + +<a href="#Page_21">(Page 21)</a></span></div> + + +<p>The walls, of course, have been patched and repaired many times, but +are, especially in the chancel, full of Roman bricks and Saxon +workmanship. There are indications that some of the courses were +actually laid by Roman hands; and, if this be so, imagination may +carry us back far earlier than Augustine, to the legend that Joseph of +Arimathea brought the Gospel to Britain within a generation of the +death of Our Lord.</p> + +<p>On our way back to the town, if we step inside the Infirmary grounds, +we shall see the ruins of St. Pancras, built, it is said, by Augustine +on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> foundations of an "Idol-temple" where Ethelbert worshipped +before his conversion. Roman bricks abound, Roman pillars are built +into the wall, and there are still the remains of an altar in a tiny +chapel where probably Augustine officiated.</p> + +<p>Now we may return to the "Chequers of the Hope", but not to its +dormitory of a hundred beds. There is a fine frankness, far removed +from modern municipal ambition, in the names of these old streets. +Mercery Lane, Butchery Lane, Wincheap (Wine Market), and Beer-Cart +Lane tell their own story. As we look down narrow, crooked Mercery +Lane, with its overhanging fronts, struggling to survive +"improvements", we not only recognize "the last enchantments of the +Middle Age", but we ask what kind of mercery used to stock the stalls +under the arcades which once sheltered the sidewalks? Chiefly, no +doubt, cheap memorials or "signs" of the accomplished pilgrimage; the +little leaden bottles or "ampulles", containing water from the well +near Becket's tomb in the crypt, and the infinitesimal tincture +therein of the martyr's blood; also leaden brooches representing his +mitred head. "These signs", says Dean Stanley, "they fastened on their +hats or caps, or hung from their necks, and thus were henceforth +distinguished. As the pilgrims from Compostella brought home the +scallop-shells which <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>still lie on the seashores of Gallicia—as the +'Palmers' from Palestine brought the palm-branches still given at the +Easter Pilgrimage—as the 'roamers' from Rome brought models of St. +Peter's keys, or a 'Vernicle'—that is a pattern of Veronica's +handkerchief—sewed on their caps—so the Canterbury Pilgrim had his +hat thickset with a 'hundred ampulles' or with leaden brooches. Many +of these are said to have been found in the beds of the Stour and the +Thames, dropped as the vast concourse departed from Canterbury or +reached London."</p> + +<p>What processions, triumphal or funereal, have passed along Mercery +Lane and crossed the little open space before the gateway to the +Precincts! Two French kings, and nearly every English sovereign till +Queen Anne, have been here. Louis VII of France as a pilgrim, John of +France as the captive of the Black Prince, Henry II on his bitter +pilgrimage of penance in 1174; Richard Cœur de Lion with his +captive, William the Lion of Scotland, in 1189; Henry III with the +Magna Carta Archbishop Stephen Langton at the Great Pardon of 1220. +Here before the Cathedral gate halted for a moment the weeping +cavalcade when they buried the Black Prince, in 1376—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"To the noise of the mourning of a mighty nation,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Mourning when its leaders fall".<br /></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></div></div> + +<p>No man bearing weapons was admitted to the Precincts after the murder +of Becket; therefore the two emblematic riders who had accompanied the +bier from Westgate, "one bearing the Prince's arms of England and +France, the other the ostrich feathers—one to represent the Prince in +his splendid suite as he rode in war, the other to represent him in +black as he rode to tournaments"—had here to fall out of rank. Here +were borne to their grave Henry IV and his Queen Joan of Navarre. Dean +Stanley remarks that Henry IV as a child of ten was perhaps present as +a mourner at the Black Prince's funeral, unknowing that he should +overthrow the Prince's son Richard II and finally rest by the famous +warrior's side.</p> + +<p>The devout but incapable and unfortunate Henry VI was at Canterbury +eleven times, and more than once as a pilgrim. As a pilgrim, in +humblest guise, he was here after his final defeat at Tewkesbury, his +Queen in captivity, his son dead on the field "stabbed by the Yorkist +Lords after Edward (the Fourth) had met his cry for mercy with a +buffet from his gauntlet". Henry himself went hence to die in the +Tower, and so end the hopes of the House of Lancaster.</p> + +<p>The little open space between Mercery Lane and the Precincts gatehouse +has seen many strange doings<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> which we cannot record. In the +thirteenth century Canterbury was requisitioned for a contingent of +Edward I's Welsh invasion, and the monks refused to bear their share +of the expense. This led to a furious dispute with the citizens, an +embittered kind of "Town and Gown". A trench was dug before the gate +to prevent ingress and egress of men or victuals, and the brethren +appear to have been starved out. In the fifteenth century Edward IV +hanged the Mayor and some of his friends here for complicity in +treason.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_5" id="Pic_5"></a> +<img src="images/image_007.jpg" width="800" height="540" alt="CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM CHRIST CHURCH GATE" /> +<span class="caption">CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM CHRIST CHURCH GATE + +<a href="#Page_24">(Page 24)</a></span></div> + +<p>But these "old, unhappy far-off things" were before the existence of +the present beautiful Perpendicular gatehouse, depicted in our +illustration. Its Norman predecessor was still standing, lower, +plainer, grimmer, like most Norman buildings. Prior Goldston did not +finish this one till 1517. In 1520, when its carvings were fresh and +the stone bright in the sunshine, and the great statue of Our Lord +looked down from over the archway, and the octagonal side-turrets, +like those of St. Augustine's, were not within three hundred years of +being pulled down that bank-clerks might see the Cathedral clock from +the other end of Mercery Lane—then there came to the last of the +Great Pardons, with trumpetings and gorgeous retinue, two great kings +riding under one canopy. One was Henry VIII and the other the +mightiest monarch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> in Christendom, Charles V the Emperor of Germany, +Spain, and the Netherlands, President of the Diet which tried to +murder Luther, as the Council of Constance had murdered Huss; but a +far better man than Henry, and uncle of Henry's Queen, Katherine. +Before them rode Cardinal Wolsey, and there were Spanish Grandees, and +English Nobles, and Queen Katherine herself. "The streets", says Dr. +Cox, "were lined with priests and clerks from all the parishes within +twenty miles of the city, with censers, crosses, surplices, and copes +of the richest sort. At the great west doors of the church (still +opened only for royalties and archbishops) they were met by the +Archbishop, and after saying their devotions they proceeded to +Wareham's Palace. On one evening of that week Wareham gave a great +ball in the hall of the Palace, when the Emperor danced with the then +Queen of England, and Henry with the Queen of Aragon, the Emperor's +mother."</p> + +<p>Henry, as we know, had a taste for cloth of gold, and the affair must +have been sufficiently sumptuous. This was perhaps the last of the +great pageants.</p> + +<p>Charles I came here with his fifteen-year-old bride; Charles II was +gracious at considerable expense to the citizens, and brought as his +Archbishop the faithful Juxon, who had been chaplain on the fatal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> day +at Whitehall and had received the mystic word "Remember"; Elizabeth in +her haughty way was "exceeding magnifical" at the charges of +Archbishop Parker, whose wife she declined to call Madam, since +clergymen had no business with wives. The little square has also +humbler associations. It has been a bull-ring, where the poor beasts +were baited "to make them man's meat and fit to be eaten". It has had +a beautifully carved Market Cross, which gave place to the doubtful +memorial to Marlowe. The massive oaken doors bear Juxon's coat of +arms, for he set them up in place of those destroyed by the Puritans. +They are open; let us pass to the object of our pilgrimage, the great +Cathedral whose builders built better than they knew, and left for all +time a history of this land and its faith, written and illuminated in +stone.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p> +<h2>THE CATHEDRAL</h2> + + +<p>Once within Christ Church Gate, and in view of the whole southern side +of the Cathedral, we may pause for a moment and enjoy the vision. That +central tower, surely for dignity and beauty without its peer in the +land, took from first to last fifty years in the building, and was +christened from its first stone the Angel Steeple, from the figure +with which it was to be crowned, though now, the Angel having taken +flight, it is usually known as Bell Harry, from the great bell hung in +it. Mark in the sunshine (for it is a sunny day) the depth and variety +of shadows and lights on its moulded and sculptured surface. Not +without pity and indignation do we read that Goldwell, the last of the +priors who built the gatehouse and completed the tower, begged in +vain, when a palsied old man, at the dissolution of the convent, to be +continued in his old home as the first Dean. Nicholas Wotton, a wily +monk not of the fraternity, whose stone effigy you will see kneeling +in the Trinity Chapel, was appointed in his stead.</p> + +<p>After Bell Harry, the next place in our admiration is due to the +Norman staircase-turret, somewhat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> farther east, with arcading so fine +and decorative as to remind us of arabesque. This turret, with its +fellow on the north side, and the ruined staircase in the Green Court, +are Norman work unsurpassed anywhere. The fivelight Decorated window +of St. Anselm's Chapel is believed by well-qualified judges to be the +most beautiful instance of early fourteenth-century tracery in the +country. It is, of course, much later than the chapel, and was +inserted, in 1336, by Prior Oxenden, whose account states the cost at +£42, or about £650 of our money, all given by himself and his friends.</p> + +<p>On our walk to the Norman turret and St. Anselm's Chapel we notice, +under the east window of the Warrior's Chapel, a projection like a low +buttress. It is the foot of Stephen Langton's tomb. He was originally +buried within, when the chapel was built on to the transept; and later +laid here, with the altar over his head, and his feet in the open +ground.</p> + + +<p>As we move along the Precincts we are treading on the dust of the +Cathedral-builders. For all this southern side was a graveyard—of the +laity as far as St. Anselm's, and of the monks and clergy beyond. The +two were divided by a wall, in which was set as gateway the gabled +Norman arch which is now the entrance to the Bowling Green in front of +us. It is a curious reflection that, in those days of primitive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> +transport, these walls and towers were brought stone by stone from the +quarries at Caen in Normandy. The barges crossed the Channel and were +unloaded at Fordwych, about two miles from Canterbury. Formerly the +tides came up the river in considerable volume, and Fordwych was a +flourishing port with its Mayor and Corporation; and still has its +queer little town hall, its ducking stool for scolds, and its prison, +though only a tiny hamlet of one hundred and fifty people. When Louis +VII of France made his annual grant of 1600 gallons of wine to Christ +Church Priory, a fee was paid to the Mayor of Fordwych for the use of +his crane in lifting the barrels from the boats. Not many years ago, +at an audit of the Chapter Accounts, a yearly item of forty shillings +was identified as this very fee, which has been regularly paid for +centuries, after the "Wine of St. Thomas" had been consumed, +discontinued, and forgotten. Whether this odd survival will more +interest the historic, or shock the financial, sense of our American +visitors is a question of psychology.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Pic_6" id="Pic_6"></a> +<img src="images/image_008.jpg" width="600" height="873" alt="CHRIST CHURCH GATE—ENTRANCE TO CATHEDRAL PRECINCTS" /> +<span class="caption">CHRIST CHURCH GATE—ENTRANCE TO CATHEDRAL PRECINCTS + +<a href="#Page_24">(Page 24)</a></span></div> + +<p>The nave was not built till the end of the fourteenth century, and is +therefore one of the latest parts of the church. Of the two western +towers the northern stood, as built by Lanfranc shortly after the +Conquest, till 1834. During the excavations preparatory to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> +present structure it is said that the skeletons of a man and two +bullocks were found in an upright position, as they had sunk into the +marsh in Norman times. All this side was very marshy, and the crypt of +the choir was frequently flooded. The ground-level has risen during +the last few centuries, but is still only some 20 or 30 feet above the +sea.</p> + +<p>Above the outer entrance of the south-west porch is a bas-relief, +blackened with age, of the altar which, after Becket's murder in the +Martyrdom, was erected at the spot where he fell. It was called the +Altar of the Sword's Point; and the fragment of Richard the Breton's +sword, which dealt the last fierce blow, and was shivered on the +pavement, is seen here at the foot of the altar. Above it is a +crucifix with the figures of St. John and the Virgin. The pilgrims +used to offer their gifts and prayers at three holy places in +succession, at the "Sword's Point", in the Martyrdom; then at the +earlier tomb of Becket in the crypt; and lastly at the shrine in the +Trinity Chapel.</p> + +<p>Inside the porch, when Erasmus was here (1513), there were three stone +figures of the murderers in full armour, "enjoying", he says, "the +same sort of fame as Judas, Pilate, and Caiaphas". In Saxon times the +porch served not only as entrance to the church, but also as +courthouse and muniment room, where the Kings of Kent did justice and +judgment. Of course<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> the present structure is much later, but both +porch and nave cover the ground-plan of the ancient church of +Lanfranc, which had a short choir, and an apse like that of a Roman +basilica.</p> + +<p>Let us enter, and, having looked at the great west window, filled with +thirteenth-century glass from other parts of the Cathedral, let us +face eastward, with the vast piers and lofty arches on either hand. We +see the long flight of steps up to the choir, and perhaps get a +glimpse, through the door in the screen, of the farther and higher +flight up to the Holy Table. This long vista, with its double ascent, +is said to have greatly impressed the mediæval pilgrims, as indeed it +still impresses us. There is nothing, I think, elsewhere quite like +it; and it was doubtless intended to symbolize and accentuate the idea +of "going up to" the shrine, which was in the exalted Trinity Chapel +as in a throne-room. Incidentally this unusual elevation of the +eastern floor of the church made possible one of the finest crypts in +existence, which for space and dignity is a church in itself.</p> + +<p>As we go forward to the choir steps, and stand below the screen and +under the central tower, there is much to observe. Overhead are the +carved stone "struts" or crosspieces with which Prior Goldston +buttressed his piers, and distributed the strain of the tower's +enormous weight. Their date is marked by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> the rebus of the builder's +name T and P (for Thomas, Prior), and between the letters a gilded +stone. A similar rebus is in the crypt on Cardinal Morton's +monument—a mort or hawk perched on a tun or barrel.</p> + +<p>The great window in the south transept, on our right, belongs to the +fifteenth century, but is filled with magnificent glass brought from +the choir clerestory, and 200 years older than the mullions which +frame it. The corresponding north transept window was filled with +splendid glass by Edward IV; the ecclesiastical figures in the topmost +tracery, some borders, and the panels representing the King with his +two sons who perished in the Tower, and his Queen, Elizabeth +Woodville, with her daughters, still remain. The eldest girl is +Elizabeth of York, who married Henry VII, and so ended the feud of +York and Lancaster. The rest of the glass, which illustrated the life +of the Virgin, and the miracles of St. Thomas of Canterbury, was +smashed by the pike of the Puritan miscreant Culmer, who gloried in +having "rattled down Becket's glassy bones". It is strange that he +spared three of the unique thirteenth-century Becket windows in the +Trinity Chapel. It is said that, as he was at work on his ladder, a +townsman below enquired what he was doing. "The work of the Lord," was +the reply. "Then if it please the Lord I will help you," and an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> +adroit boulder was flung at his head. This may have cooled his zeal; +but, alas! there is room for misgiving that he ducked his head in +time. So the happiest hopes of history have sometimes miscarried.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_7" id="Pic_7"></a> +<img src="images/image_009.jpg" width="800" height="543" alt="FORDWICH" /> +<span class="caption">FORDWICH + +<a href="#Page_29">(Page 29)</a></span></div> + +<p>On our right, again, is the entrance from the south transept into St. +Michael's, or the Warriors' Chapel, where the honoured grave of +Langton, the Magna Charta archbishop, is half inside and half outside, +the wall striding over him by an arch so that his head should lie +under the altar. This chapel contains, and was probably enlarged to +contain, the extremely fine monument of Lady Margaret Holland and her +two husbands, which is a perfect study of the armour and dress of the +early fifteenth century. The first husband was Earl of Somerset and +half-brother of Henry IV, and the second was, curiously, nephew of the +first and brother of Henry V. The lady outlived them both and placed +their effigies here with her own between them. She was the +stepdaughter of the Black Prince.</p> + +<p>On our left again, in the north transept, is the far-famed Martyrdom, +the spot where Becket died and became St. Thomas. Here is the ground +on which the hunted prelate, powerful in body as in mind, caught up +Tracy in his full armour and flung him on the pavement. Here is the +door from the cloister through which Becket came for sanctuary, and +which he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> refused to bar against his assailants come for murder—"The +Church must not be turned into a Castle." Here is the place where the +slain Archbishop lay, his head "four feet from the wall", where +afterwards was erected to his memory the Altar of the Sword's Point.</p> + +<p>From hence he was carried to the tomb in the crypt, where he lay for +fifty years until the Translation to the Shrine in Trinity Chapel in +1220. It is not for me in this brief sketch to tell what has been told +so dramatically by Stanley in his <i>Memorials</i>, and with such +historical insight by Green in his History. It was a duel between the +Civil and the Ecclesiastical sovereignties, represented respectively +by Henry II and his Archbishop; both of them, for all their genius, +too haughty, violent, and headstrong to bring a difficult controversy +to a close, or even to a lasting truce.</p> + +<p>Before we leave the Martyrdom we must notice the oldest effigy in the +Cathedral, that of Peckham, Edward I's Archbishop, who died in 1292, +and beside it that of Wareham, the last archbishop before the +Reformation, who half yielded to Henry VIII and repented of yielding, +and in a few months died, partly perhaps of the sore perplexity and +trouble of the time. A comparison of the two canopies will mark for us +the advance in decorative art between the thirteenth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> and the early +sixteenth centuries. The door into the cloister has its brighter as +well as its dark memory. For here, at the entrance of what was then +deemed the most sacred enclosure in the land, was Edward I, that +great, stern, tender-hearted King, married to Margaret of Anjou, nine +years after he had lost the wife of whom he wrote: "I loved her +tenderly in her life; I do not cease to love her now she is dead".</p> + +<p>The pilgrims were usually conducted from the altar in the Martyrdom to +the "Tumba" or first resting place of the "holy blissful martyr", +which was in the crypt. The whole of the crypt was dedicated to the +Virgin, and the Chapel of Our Lady of the Undercroft, though now dark +and deserted, is still enclosed by the lovely stone tracery placed +round it by the Black Prince as a memorial of his marriage. When +Erasmus was here he said it was "so loaded with riches" as to be "a +more than royal spectacle", and he added: "It is shown but to noblemen +and particular friends". Doubtless though the treasures were hidden +from the common pilgrim, the altar was always accessible to his +devotion. Cardinal Morton desired to be buried near the image of Our +Lady of the Undercroft, and his tomb is close by. He may be remembered +as the minister of Henry VII and author of <i>Morton's Fork</i>. It was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> an +eminently successful method of finance, which may remind us of a +modern Budget. Its principle was that those who spend much can +obviously afford to pay, and those who spend little can well afford +the taxation of their savings.</p> + +<p>Under the south choir transept is another memorial of the Black +Prince. It is the double chantry exacted by the Pope as the price of a +dispensation to marry his cousin. The Prince came to Canterbury +himself, met the prior and the mason, and gave orders for the work, +which perhaps included the sculptured face of his beautiful wife in +one of the bosses of the roof. The chantry, with its two apses for the +mass priests, is now the Chapel of the French Protestants, who have +had services here since the royal permission in 1575. After the +Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1685, the refugees are said to +have numbered three thousand, and to have gained for Canterbury a +large trade in silk-weaving and paper-making. Their descendants are +now merged into the English population, but their names and the weekly +French service still survive.</p> + + +<p>There have been two comparatively recent discoveries in the crypt. One +is the well which probably supplied the water for the "ampulles" or +leaden bottles of the pilgrims, the other is a stone chest containing +bones which many believe to be the actual<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> remains of Becket. They +are certainly those of a tall man, placed in a receptacle which was +not their original coffin, and there is certainly the mark of violence +on the skull. It has been cogently argued by Dr. Moore, a canon of +this Cathedral, and Principal of St. Edmund's Hall, Oxford, in a +lecture which will, I hope, be printed, that as the bones of Dante at +Ravenna, and of Cuthbert at Durham, were removed from their shrines to +avoid violation, and others substituted to avoid discovery of the +removal, so the bones of Becket were removed and hidden by the monks +in the interval of suspense before the King's final orders arrived. +They remain where they were found, and the slab above them, though it +bears no inscription, will be readily pointed out by a guide. Before +we bid farewell to the crypt we must call to mind one of the earliest +and greatest of all the pilgrims. In 1174, not quite four years after +the murder, Henry II, as a barefooted penitent, laid his head on the +tomb of Becket between those two slender pillars, and gave his back to +the scourge of the monks and clergy. How far this suffering and +humiliation, which brought on a serious illness, was dictated by +penitence and how far by policy will never be known. But urgent +dangers were closing round the King, which were immediately afterwards +dissipated in a series of triumphs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> which he may have thought due to +miraculous interposition.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_8" id="Pic_8"></a> +<img src="images/image_010.jpg" width="800" height="549" alt="ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH" /> +<span class="caption">ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH + +<a href="#Page_20">(Page 20)</a></span></div> + +<p>Following the track of the pilgrims, we leave the crypt on the south side, +emerge into the transept, and ascend, along the south choir aisle, by +steps worn hollow by penitential knees (for it was a kind of <i>scala +santa</i>—a sacred stair) to the Trinity Chapel, the sanctuary of the +martyr's shrine. Let us try to recall what this was like. It stood in the +centre of the now vacant space beneath the crescent in the vaulted roof. +Three steps led up to a platform figured with a kind of mosaic. The lowest +step, worn by pilgrims' knees, and three of the inlaid "roundles" form +part of the present pavement. On the platform three arches sustained the +body of the saint in a gilded and richly wrought coffin. Two of these +arches, with their columns, were hung with the precious offerings of those +who had sought or received benefit by the saint's intercession. Through +the third, suppliants were allowed to pass, that by contact with the +pillars they might derive some virtue from the relics. The whole was +enclosed in an elaborate oaken case, which was let down and drawn up by +ropes and pulleys from above. One of the monks had charge of the +proceedings—the Mystagogus or Master of the Mysteries, as Erasmus, with a +touch of mockery, calls him—and when a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> sufficient concourse had +assembled he drew up the cover and revealed to the wondering throng all +the splendour of gold and gems.</p> + +<p>Within thirty years of Erasmus's visit every vestige of this +magnificence was swept away; and so completely were all memorials of +Becket destroyed that only one representation of the shrine survives. +This, perhaps, was overlooked, for it is a small panel of stained +glass, and may be found in the highest group of the central of the +three thirteenth-century windows on the north side of the Trinity +Chapel. St. Thomas is mitred and in full canonical vestments, leaning +from or coming out of his shrine, above a figure lying on a bed or +couch below. It is a pictorial record of a vision of the saint which +is related by Benedict, his historian, as having appeared to himself. +The inscription is <i>Prodire Feretro</i>, which fails in grammatical +construction, but probably is intended to mean <i>Issuing from the +Shrine</i>.</p> + +<p>It should be noted that the casket or coffin portrayed elsewhere in +these windows, is not the great shrine in the Trinity Chapel, but the +earlier "tumba" at which Henry II did his penance in the crypt. The +determination of Henry VIII to obliterate everything which could +minister to the cult was probably due not merely to zeal against +superstition, but was part of his policy of stamping<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> out the +resistance of the clergy to common law; for in the history of Becket, +and in the honour paid to his remains, was the chief support of their +claim. This throws light on the extraordinary legal process by which, +more than three hundred years after his death, "Thomas Becket, +sometime Archbishop of Canterbury", was summoned, tried, and condemned +for treason, contumacy, and rebellion.</p> + +<p>The summons was solemnly read by the shrine, and when, after thirty +days, no voice or presence had issued from it, the case was formally +tried at Westminster, sentence pronounced, the bones of the defendant +were adjudged to be publicly burned, his treasures confiscated to the +Crown, and his name blotted out of every service-book. Strange as the +trial of a dead man may seem to us, it was not without precedent. So +had the dead Wycliffe been cited, and his bones burned. So did Queen +Mary to the dead Bucer. It is pleasanter to think of the Emperor +Charles V by the grave of Erasmus. A courtier proposed that he should +exhume and burn the great scholar "who laid the egg which Luther +hatched"; the Emperor's fine reply was: "I war not with the dead".</p> + +<p>Long before these changes and troubles, when the Chapel of the Shrine +was the most honoured of the high places in the Cathedral, the Black +Prince<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> was laid here as the most honoured of its dead; and it is a +testimony to the tenacious affection of the nation for his memory, +that no desecrating hand has ever been laid, even in turbulent times, +on his grave. The armour of the beautiful effigy has lost the gilding +which once made him a golden knight, but it is fresh and clear in its +outlines as it was in the fourteenth century. His helm, surcoat, +gauntlets, shield, and scabbard still hang above him; round his +resting place is the railing with its six tall iron posts for the +great candles, which were lit on the anniversaries of his death. What +tragedies and tumults would have been arrested by his strong hand, had +he lived, we cannot tell; but a more impressive monument to a more +beloved memory does not perhaps exist.</p> + +<p>A few yards away lies the man who wrested the throne from the Prince's +son, Richard II, while Canterbury nave was building. Visitors +sometimes recognize in the portrait-statue of Henry IV, as he lies +beside his Queen, Joan of Navarre, a curious family likeness to King +Edward VII, witnessing to the persistence of Plantagenet blood. When +the vault was opened in 1832 its occupant was found to be in a +singular state of preservation, with a little simple cross, of two +twigs tied together, laid upon his breast. The monument is of rare +artistic merit,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> as is the chantry close by, which he built for "twey +preestes" to say masses for his soul.</p> + +<p>The next monument eastward of the Black Prince's is Archbishop +Courtenay's (1396); and beyond this a mean brick mound without +inscription but not without a history. Here lies Odet de Coligny, +brother of the great admiral. Though a prince, a cardinal, an +inquisitor, and a bishop, his sympathies were with the Huguenots, and +he undertook a mission on their behalf to Queen Elizabeth. In the +canonical house, formerly known as Master Omer's, at the southeast +corner of the Precincts, he was poisoned by his servants, whether or +not by foreign instigation is not known. Those were days when the +murderer's hand reached far and freely, especially in causes political +and religious. He was laid here and rudely bricked over, in +expectation of his removal to France; but the French wars of religion +left men no leisure to care for their dead. Against the south wall is +a tomb without inscription and long unidentified. When opened in 1889 +there was found, in full pomp of episcopal vestments, pastoral staff, +chalice and paten, wearing a ring graven with strange Egyptian +symbols, Hubert Walter, acclaimed archbishop on the field of Acre and +afterwards the faithful chancellor who kept the kingdom and raised the +ransom for Cœur de Lion. Beside him was a collecting box,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> perhaps +for Peter's Pence, or for the King's ransom. These relics are kept +under glass in Henry IV's chantry.</p> + +<p>East of Trinity Chapel is the circular space called the Corona, or +Becket's Crown, either as the head or crown of Becket's church, or, as +Dr. Cox thinks, because here by the altar to the Trinity was a silver +bust of Becket containing the fragment of his skull cut off by Richard +the Breton's sword. The three most famous objects in the Cathedral are +the site of the shrine, the Black Prince's monument, and the chair of +St. Augustine; and here is the last of the three. In this seat of +Purbeck or Bethersden marble have been enthroned from time immemorial +the Archbishops of Canterbury. If some critics say that it is no older +than the thirteenth century, others say that it was in existence in +the sixth century, when Augustine arrived, and that Kentish kings were +crowned on it. It has always a place in the triple enthronement of an +Archbishop of Canterbury. He is seated on the throne in the choir as +Diocesan Bishop, in the chapter house as titular Abbot, and in St. +Augustine's chair as Primate of All England.</p> + +<p>The pilgrims were conducted from Trinity Chapel back to the nave, +along the south choir aisle, where the steps still show the marks of +the two iron gates which divided the ascending from the descending<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> +stream. We, however, will take the north choir aisle, which was +strictly reserved for monks, clerics, and officials, and find our way +into the choir. The pavement is still that of Lanfranc or Anselm, for, +when any part of it is taken up, bits of lead are found which fell +melted from the roof, in the great fire of 1174. Facing east by the +archbishop's throne we see the monuments of six archbishops. Nearest +on our right is Cardinal Kemp, who was with Henry V at Agincourt; then +Stratford, the opponent of Edward III; and lastly Simon Sudbury, who +built Westgate and lost his head. Nearest on our left is the gorgeous +tomb of Chicheley, who, in old age, was stricken with remorse for +having instigated Henry V's French campaigns in order to distract +attention from Lollard schemes for confiscating Church property. He +founded All Souls College, Oxford, to pray for the souls of those who +fell in the wars, and the Warden still renews, when needed, the +colour-decoration of his monument. Then Howley, who crowned Queen +Victoria, and finally Bourchier, who crowned Edward IV, Richard III, +and Henry VII, and, by wedding the latter to Elizabeth of York, +terminated the Wars of the Roses.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"><a name="Pic_9" id="Pic_9"></a> +<img src="images/image_011.jpg" width="800" height="550" alt="WESTGATE" /> +<span class="caption">WESTGATE + +<a href="#Page_13">(Page 13)</a></span></div> + +<p>In Canterbury Cathedral have been buried some fifty archbishops, the +Black Prince, Henry IV, two queens, and many others of royalty or +distinction.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> Of the old monuments only about eighteen are left. The +great fires of 1067 and 1174, the violence of men, and the ravages of +time have all taken their toll.</p> + +<p>Of the architectural history of the Cathedral, deeply interesting as +it is, little can here be said. It may be summed up as a happy +alternation of destructive fires and vigorous priors, aided by +munificent archbishops and master masons of genius. There is no +history of the first Christian settlement in these islands; but we +dimly descry a Roman, and on its foundations a Saxon building which +lasted till the Conquest Then came a fire, and with it Lanfranc's +opportunity. He had driving power, and in the brief period of seven +years (1070-7) built a stone Cathedral over the Roman and Saxon ground +plans, adding a short choir and western towers of which one remained +till 1834.</p> + +<p>Only twenty years after Lanfranc, Anselm, greatly daring, pulled down +most of his choir, and with his prior, Ernulf, began a slightly wider +and much longer choir, extending about as far as the present Holy +Table. This came to be known as "the glorious choir of Conrad", from +the name of the prior who completed it. Anselm's or Ernulf's work +still remains as part of the present crypt. In 1174, a hundred years +later, the year of Henry II's penance at <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>Becket's tomb, the whole +church was ruined by the most devastating fire in its annals. How +severe was the blow, both to monks and people, we may learn from +Gervase, who was an eyewitness and one of the fraternity. The people +"tore their hair and beat the walls and pavement of the church with +their heads and hands, blaspheming the Lord and his Saints"; the monks +"wailed and howled rather than sang their daily and nightly services" +in the roofless nave.</p> + +<p>French William, the designer of the Cathedral at Sens in Normandy, was +chosen for the restoration; and the mark of his handiwork is plainly +to be seen in the resemblances between the two churches. Genius +transforms hindrances into triumphs. French William's difficulty was +that the side chapels of St. Andrew and St. Anselm, built on the arc +of the old apse, were too near together to admit of the full width of +his new and longer choir. He kept the chapels, contracted the choir at +their nearest points and then expanded it into the Trinity Chapel, +with the remarkable effect which strikes every observer.</p> + +<p>When his work was partly accomplished, and he was on the scaffolding +to prepare for the turning of the vault, he fell with a mass of timber +and stone from a height of 50 feet, and was disabled for life. He +chose for his successor another man of genius,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> known as English +William, one of his staff, "small of body, but in many kinds of +workmanship acute and honest", who added to his master's design the +great uplift of the floor of the Trinity Chapel and completed that and +the Corona or Becket's Crown. Since 1185 no substantial alteration has +been made in the eastern half of the Cathedral.</p> + +<p>If the reader desires to know the chief sources of our information +about the early history of Canterbury Cathedral, the reply is in +itself a picture of the times. Eadmer was a boy in the convent school +before the Conquest, and singer or precentor in Lanfranc's choir of +monks. He also lived through the rule of Anselm.</p> + +<p>Gervase was a monk of Christ Church when Becket died in the Martyrdom. +He witnessed the fire of 1174, the desolation it left behind, and the +immortal achievements of French William and of his English namesake. +Eadmer and Gervase have both left us narratives, not umixed with +monkish legend, but faithful and full of curious information.</p> + +<p>It is not easy for us to understand the veneration paid to relics; yet +from that veneration sprang all the glories of the Cathedral. And when +we read in these old chronicles, translated from Latin in Willis' +<i>Architectural History</i>, of the desperate, almost agonized labours of +the monks to save from fire,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> weather, or dishonour the remains of +their buried saints, we shall withhold our scorn for their +superstition, and find less surprising the immense sums paid in the +Middle Age for the arm or skull of a dead man.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Pic_10" id="Pic_10"></a> +<img src="images/image_012.jpg" width="600" height="872" alt="THE GATEWAY, ST. AUGUSTINE'S ABBEY" /> +<span class="caption">THE GATEWAY, ST. AUGUSTINE'S ABBEY + +<a href="#Page_51">(Page 51)</a></span></div> + +<p>The earlier Saxon archbishops were laid in the ground of St. +Augustine's Abbey, which thus accumulated a store of sanctity which +roused the sore jealousy of their Christ Church brethren. Accordingly +in the eighth century Cuthbert obtained a secret permission from the +Pope to be buried in the Cathedral. His death was not divulged until +he was safely interred, and when the monks of St. Augustine's came to +demand as usual the body of the dead archbishop, they were met with +derisive shouts, and the brandishing of the Papal decree. Thus Gervase +records that Cuthbert, "being endowed with great wisdom, procured for +Christ Church the right of free sepulture".</p> + +<p>There is at least one "secret chamber" in the Cathedral for the hiding +away of relics or of treasures. This is the Chapel of St. Gabriel in +the crypt. The entrance was through a hole which was entirely +concealed by an outside altar. This chapel was so successfully hidden +that the monk Gervase was evidently ignorant of its existence in the +twelfth century; and its roof is covered with very curious painting +of that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> date, which the darkness (for there is no window) has kept +in remarkable preservation. There is also a room, over the Treasury, +accessible only by a door opening 6 feet above the floor of St. +Andrew's Chapel, requiring therefore a ladder as means of approach. +But it was never a really secret chamber, and was probably at one time +entered by an ordinary stone stairway.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p> +<h2>THE MONASTIC BUILDINGS</h2> + + +<p>It must be remembered that Canterbury Cathedral was originally the +church or chapel of the monastery. The people were admitted to the +nave, but only monks and clergy took any official part in the +services, or entered the choir, which was the sanctuary of the +Brotherhood. Indeed the entire Precincts belonged to them; and though +they allowed the ground near the Christ Church Gate to be used as a +general churchyard, or "exterior cemetery", entrance to the inner +Precincts was only by permission or invitation. The present boundary +of this monkish domain on the south and east is the old fortified wall +of the city, but formerly the monastery had an interior wall of its +own, running parallel to it, and leaving a space or lane about 14 feet +wide, for the carrying of munitions and provisions to the defenders of +the outer wall, and of materials for its repair.</p> + +<p>The unique remnant of this lane is known as Quenengate or Queeningate +Lane, and if we can borrow a canon's key and pass through the Norman +archway of the Bowling Green, near the east end<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> of the Cathedral, we +may see not only Queeningate Lane but also the postern door in the +outer wall through which Queen Bertha, in the sixth century, went to +her daily prayer at St. Martin's. Nay, as we open that door we are +face to face with the turreted fourteenth-century gateway of St. +Augustine's, founded by and named after the great man, and once +ranking second only to Subiaco among the Benedictine monasteries of +Europe. Time was when St. Augustine's looked down upon Christ Church, +as upon a little brother who should not presume. When, at the +invitation of Edward I, Archbishop Peckham went to the Abbey to dine, +he was refused admission, unless he would lower his cross or crozier +on entering. He declined this indignity, and was absent from the royal +dinner-party. Ethelbert's Tower, a splendid remnant of the Norman +abbey church, stood till 1822, when it was battered down by the +Philistines to provide cheap building material and make room for a +tea-garden. In Bede's time this church had a tomb inscribed: "Here +resteth the Lord Augustine, first Archbishop of Canterbury A.D. 605". +To share the sanctity of a spot so consecrated, saints, nobles, and +kings were brought hither on their last journey. Cuthbert turned the +tide when he so cunningly gained the right of sepulture for Christ +Church, and eventually, as we know, Becket's shrine quite eclipsed St. +Augustine's.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> After the dissolution the abbey became for a time a +royal lodge, and Queen Elizabeth and the First and Second Charles have +occupied the guest-chamber over the gateway.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Pic_11" id="Pic_11"></a> +<img src="images/image_013.jpg" width="600" height="890" alt="GATEWAY OF ST. JOHN'S HOSPITAL" /> +<span class="caption">GATEWAY OF ST. JOHN'S HOSPITAL + +<a href="#Page_56">(Page 56)</a></span></div> + +<p>Returning to the Precincts, we are again reminded that the makers of +Canterbury were the pilgrims and the monks. Of the three houses on our +right, the first is Master Omer's, the guest-house for pilgrims where +Odet de Coligny was murdered; the second incorporates part of the +infirmary; the third was its frater and kitchen; while the long arcade +of ruins, still reddened with the fire of 700 years ago, and +stretching along the north side of the choir to the Dark Entry, was +the monks' hospital.</p> + +<p>So vast an infirmary as this, with its chapel at one end and cloister +at the other, for a community of 100 to 150 monks, seems at first +unaccountable. This and some other things we shall understand better +when we have walked through the infirmary cloister, and along +Lanfranc's vaulted passage to the great or main Cloister of the +convent. This was the centre of the whole monastic life, in which the +monks spent the greater part of the day, and from which doors gave +access to every part of the building, dining hall or frater, +dormitories, cellarer's stores and lodging, deportum or recreation +room, chapter house for business and discipline, Cathedral choir<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +for worship, infirmary for the sick or weary. Here they read and +wrote, here they learned and taught, here were chronicles completed, +missals illuminated, and various tasks of hand or head performed under +the direction of the superiors.</p> + +<p>Yet with all its splendour of traceried arch it is a comfortless +place. Not until a few years before the fall of the monastery was it +glazed even on one side. In the long summers and hot sunshine of +Italy, where the Benedictine order took its rise, it was natural +enough to build for coolness and air; hence not only the open alleys +of the cloister, but also its situation on the north side of the +church. It is possible that at Canterbury there was some difficulty +about space on the south side; certainly in a chilly climate open +cloisters hidden from the sun by a mountain of masonry must have +inflicted much hardship on the monks, and added to the austerities of +their ascetic life. They were a delicate and short-lived race, usually +failing to attain forty years of age, and compelled by statute to +spend three days of each month in the infirmary, independently of +occasional recourse thither for ailments and for being bled, which was +regarded as periodically necessary. Ordericus Vitalis, a monkish +historian living in Normandy, says several times in his chronicle: +"The winter has now come, and my fingers are so numbed by the cold +that I <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>can write no more till the spring". Visiting members of other +convents were not asked to share the full discipline, but were +hospitably lodged in the infirmary as the most comfortable quarters. +Moreover, epidemics occurred, as in 1348, the year of the Black Death, +when Archbishop Bradwardine died of the Plague within a few weeks of +his installation, and half the nation perished. So the infirmary was +probably not too large after all. It must not be forgotten that +silence was strictly enjoined in the Cloister, so that to the agonies +of cold hands and feet was added the privation, with which we cannot +fail to sympathize, of being unable to talk about the inclemency of +the weather.</p> + +<p>In the cloister garth are two graves perhaps as well worth visiting as +ever Becket's was, though no miracles have yet occurred at them. They +are those of Archbishop Temple and Dean Farrar.</p> + +<p>If we retrace our way along Lanfranc's gloomy passage to the infirmary +cloister, where guests and invalid brethren took the air, and turn to +the left along the Dark Entry, by the ruins of the Lord Prior's +Lodging and Chequer House or Office, we emerge into the Green Court. +Here servants had their quarters, and at the great gate of the convent +received guests and pilgrims. Those of distinction they conducted to +Master Omer's, those<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> of middle rank to Chillenden Chambers or the +vanished New Lodging; the common wayfarers ascended that lovely and +unique Norman staircase to the Great North Hall. These had to bring +their own bedding and cooking utensils, like the steerage passengers +in an emigrant ship; and their hall was kitchen, parlour, and bedroom +in one, so that its superb approach was no measure of the quality of +its accommodation. The cowl or habit of a monk would rarely be seen in +the Green Court. It belonged too much to the outside world and the +secular life.</p> + +<p>Before we ourselves return to that outside world let us turn +southwards for a moment for a view that we shall not easily forget. +Below the immense mass and broken outlines of the church, and flanked +by ruins of cloister and dormitory, we see across a little breadth of +lawn the picturesque octagonal tower called the Baptistery. It was +really a monks' lavatory, and the centre of the water supply. For, +strange as it may be to our conceited modern ears, the monks had from +the twelfth century an elaborate system of waterworks, and probably +owed to this their comparatively small mortality during the +visitations of plague. There still exists a twelfth-century plan +showing the various pipes, tanks, and basins, for drinking, washing, +or cooking. So the little octagonal tower, as so often happens, was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> +useful as well as beautiful. And if the chart which indicates the path +of every pipe and runnel, and the place of every layer for personal +ablution, fails to indicate any laundry for the washing of +clothes—why, the monks wore all-wool garments, and did not think +fastidiousness a virtue. Let us hope for the best.</p> + +<p>So we pass the Convent Gate and cross the Mintyard. This is now a +"quad" of the King's School, but archbishops till Cranmer exercised +here their right of coinage. From the Mintyard we step back into a +rather squalid street of a modern world. But the house just opposite +is old enough to have housed pilgrims, and two or three hundred yards +along Northgate Street, to our right, is the fifteenth-century +timbered archway of St. John's Hospital, shown in our illustration. +St. John's was founded before the days of the pilgrims as a nook of +safety and peace for the aged poor, and this it still remains. How +many wearied souls have bidden here their long farewell to Canterbury! +We, too, will bid our farewell, less solemn, and not without hope of +return, but still with regret. If these pages and pictures enable you, +reader, to revisit in spirit the place of your pilgrimage, they will +have accomplished their end.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>Beautiful England</h2> + + +<ul> +<li><span class="smcap">Bath and Wells</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Bournemouth and Christchurch</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Cambridge</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Canterbury</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Chester and the Dee</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Cornish Riviera</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Dartmoor</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Dickens-Land</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Dukeries</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The English Lakes</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Exeter</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Folkestone and Dover</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Hampton Court</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Hastings and Neighbourhood</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Hereford and the Wye</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Isle of Wight</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The New Forest</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Norwich and the Broads</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Oxford</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Peak District</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Ripon and Harrogate</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Scarborough</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Shakespeare-Land</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Swanage and Neighbourhood</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Thames</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Warwick and Leamington</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Heart of Wessex</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Winchester</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Windsor Castle</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">York</span></li> +</ul> + + + + +<h3>LONDON</h3> +<ul> +<li><span class="smcap">The Heart of London</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Through London's Highways</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">In London's By-ways</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Rambles in Greater London</span></li> +</ul> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>Beautiful Scotland</h2> + + + +<ul> +<li><span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Shores of Fife</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Scott Country</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, +and the Trossachs</span></li></ul> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>Beautiful Ireland</h2> + + +<ul> +<li><span class="smcap">Connaught</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Leinster</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Munster</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Ulster</span></li> +</ul> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>Beautiful Switzerland</h2> + + +<ul> +<li><span class="smcap">Chamonix</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Lausanne</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Lucerne</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Villars and Champery</span></li> +</ul> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h4>BLACKIE & SON LTD., 50 OLD BAILEY, LONDON, <span class="smcap">and</span> 17 STANHOPE STREET, +GLASGOW<br /> BLACKIE & SON (INDIA) LTD. BOMBAY; BLACKIE & SON (CANADA) +LTD., TORONTO</h4> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Canterbury, by Canon Danks + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANTERBURY *** + +***** This file should be named 35276-h.htm or 35276-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/2/7/35276/ + +Produced by Sankar Viswanathan, Juliet Sutherland, and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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