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+Project Gutenberg's A Treatise on Grain Stacking, by John DeLamater
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
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+
+
+Title: A Treatise on Grain Stacking
+       Instructions how to Properly Stack all kinds of Grain, so
+       as to preserve in the best possible manner for Threshing
+       and Market.
+
+Author: John DeLamater
+
+Release Date: December 7, 2010 [EBook #34586]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TREATISE ON GRAIN STACKING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Rose Mawhorter and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+  Production Notes:
+  Pg 8. The word 'is' has been changed to the word 'as' in line 2.
+  Pg 8. The spelling of the word 'layed' has been retained.
+
+
+  A TREATISE
+
+  --ON--
+
+  GRAIN STACKING
+
+  GIVING
+
+  Instructions how to Properly Stack all
+  kinds of Grain, so as to preserve in
+  the best possible manner for
+  Threshing and Market.
+
+
+  BY
+  JOHN N. DELAMATER.
+
+
+  NORWALK, O.:
+  The Norwalk Chronicle Print.
+  1884.
+
+
+
+
+      Entered according to act of Congress in the year 1884,
+                      By JOHN N. DELAMATER,
+  In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D.C.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+So far as I am aware, this is an untried field of labor--a pioneer work
+which I have had under consideration for the last fifteen years; during
+which time the closest attention has been given to details of building,
+and careful observations made on results, when the stacks were being
+taken down.
+
+JOHN N. DELAMATER.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+TREATISE ON GRAIN STACKING.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+PLACING FOUNDATION.
+
+If convenient, make a foundation of rails, by placing three rails about
+four and one-half feet apart and parallel, and then add half or two
+thirds the length of a rail to each, and cover by laying rails
+crossways, and finish by laying a large rail or post in the center
+lengthways.
+
+This will form a foundation large enough for ten or twelve large loads.
+If rails, poles or boards cannot be had for an entire foundation,
+endeavor to get something to support the heads of a few center sheaves;
+for if sheaves are set on end to commence a stack, the middle is apt to
+settle too much.
+
+
+COMMENCING TO BUILD.
+
+On the rail foundation, lay around the center in the form of an ellipse,
+with the heads lapping well across the center rail; lap half and
+continue to lay towards the outside until foundation is covered. Now
+commence at the outside and lay a course around, neither laying out or
+drawing in, except to correct any little error that may occur in the
+elliptical form of the stack; complete the courses to the center, but
+don't fill the middle too full; if the outside is lower than the middle,
+lay a double course around outside; keep your stack _flat_--full as high
+at outside as center; build the first load straight up, neither laying
+out or drawing in, if the stack is to contain ten or twelve loads; if
+eight or nine, lay the last course out a little.
+
+
+LAYING OUT.
+
+If the stack is flat and as near an ellipse as the eye can judge,
+laying out and keeping the stack properly balanced will be very easy.
+Drive alternate loads on opposite sides of the stack: this will help to
+keep the stack properly balanced. If the eye detects a place that seems
+to be lower than the general level, it will be found that it was caused
+by laying out more there than at other points; to remedy this defect,
+draw in the next outside course at the low point six, eight or ten
+inches, according to the depression. The greater the depression, the
+more it should be drawn in, and the next inside course at the low point
+should be shoved out nearly to the buts of the outside course, then
+continue to build as though nothing had happened. If a high place should
+be observed, the next outside course should be laid farther out, and
+inside course at this point drawn well in. Glance frequently over the
+stack and see if the outside presents the appearance of an ellipse, and
+keep a sharp lookout for high and low spots. If the middle is too full,
+the outside will slip out, and an undesirable job of propping will
+begin. Put in two thirds of what is intended for the stack before
+commencing to draw in. Don't let a stack stand over night at this stage
+if it can be avoided, but put on the next two loads as quickly as
+possible, for the outside of the stack will settle rapidly.
+
+
+FILLING THE MIDDLE.
+
+Lay a tier of bundles through the center half the length of the stack,
+alternating heads and buts, then lay a course around with the heads
+lapping across the middle tier; now another tier through the center, and
+two courses around it; then another tier at center and courses around,
+until the center is three or four feet higher than the outside of the
+stack, and the last course layed laps half way from head to band on the
+outside course of the stack. It will be seen that while building the
+main part of the stack, the courses were laid from outside to center,
+and while filling the middle or putting in the stuffing, the courses are
+laid from center towards outside. Now commence outside, lay a course,
+heads out, half way from band to but on outside course, then turn buts
+out, lap half and lay to center; then lay a course around outside,
+neither laying out or drawing in.
+
+Now comes a point that should not be overlooked: Lay a course, buts
+out, lapping half way from heads to band on outside course; then lap
+half and lay to center.
+
+The reason for laying the buts of second course half way from heads to
+band is to give the buts of the next outside course above a chance to
+rest firmly on the course below, leaving no unoccupied space; if the
+buts of second course were laid out to the band of outside course, then
+the next outside course above, being drawn in, would rest one-third of
+the way from band to but, on the buts of the course below, leaving a
+space for rain to drive in and wet the stack. Draw in outside course
+rapidly; lay buts of second course half way from head to band on outside
+course as long as stack top is large enough; keep middle well piled up.
+
+A stack can be drawn in very rapidly, without danger of taking in water
+from a protracted rain, even if the outside of the stack grows green, no
+sheaf will be found wet above the band, and the middle of stack dry, for
+the buts of outside course will form a thatch roof to protect the stack.
+
+The placing of a few top bundles is a matter of small importance. If a
+stack has been properly built it will receive but little injury if top
+bundles should blow off. A strand or two of wire, with sticks or stones
+at the ends to weight them down, will usually hold the top in place.
+
+
+RECAPITULATION.
+
+The first load being built straight up and flat on top forms a firm and
+secure base on which to build the upper structure.
+
+Laying out or putting in the bulge is the most important part of the
+stack, for it contains the greater part of the grain; by laying out and
+keeping the stack _flat_, the work can be done rapidly, and when the
+stack settles the buts will hang down, for there is nothing to hold them
+up.
+
+Filling the middle corresponds to putting rafters on a building to
+support the roof.
+
+
+SUGGESTIONS.
+
+I have found in the course of a long experience, that a foundation
+eleven or twelve feet wide and eighteen or twenty feet long, and a stack
+built in the form of an ellipse, and so as to contain ten or twelve
+large loads, to be the most convenient and economical. Grain can be put
+into a stack of this size much more rapidly than in small stacks. If a
+stack is built much larger it will require more labor to pass the
+bundles across the stack, and will have to be carried much higher before
+it is topped out, which takes time and hard work.
+
+The elliptical form I have found the best; with a load driven to the
+side of the stack, the pitcher is never very far from the stacker; the
+stack is easily kept balanced, and at threshing time the grain is
+readily got to the machine. In a round stack of the same size, the
+stacker gets farther away from the pitcher, and it requires more skill
+to keep a round stack properly balanced; but if a round stack, after it
+is finished and settled, looks like an egg standing erect on the large
+end, that is good enough; it will not take water, and looks well, too. A
+square stack, or one with corners, is easily kept balanced, but in
+turning the corners there is too much fullness at the heads of the
+bundles, and when the stack settles there will usually be a sag on each
+side to catch water.
+
+Two stakes, one eight and the other ten rods away, and in line with the
+center of foundation, will sometimes assist the stacker in keeping his
+stack well balanced, for at a glance he can tell whether the center is
+in line with the stakes. A man may build, as his fancy dictates, either
+round, elliptical or square, but in _all_, the same general principles
+_must_ be observed--the lower part of the stack built straight up; put
+in a bulge which settles down around and nearly conceals the lower part,
+leaving the center of the bulge high; filling the middle to support the
+center of the top. These are the principles on which good stacking
+depends. If a man gets them well fixed in his mind and discards the idea
+that he must keep the middle full from the ground up, he will have but
+little damaged grain, even in the very worst of seasons.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A boy to hand bundles is usually more damage than good until a stack is
+half built, and then he should not be allowed to stand on outside
+course. If practical, drive alternate loads on opposite sides of the
+stack; this is very desirable, but if, from the nature of surroundings,
+it is necessary to drive all on one side, draw the top of the stack over
+a foot or two towards the side where the unloading is done; the
+opposite side will settle considerably the most, which will leave the
+stack straight up.
+
+
+FANCY STACKING.
+
+For a pyramid stack, build as usual up to within two or three rounds of
+where drawing in commences, then draw in a little at center of sides and
+ends to bring the curves to straight lines; keep the corners well out,
+observing the form of a rectangle in filling the middle, and finish to
+top.
+
+For a gothic stack, build an ordinary one until commencing to draw in,
+then draw in the oval corners and build center of sides and ends
+straight up. For an X stack draw in sides and ends; build center
+straight up. These stacks look very ornamental on a premium farm and
+will save well, but take more time to build than ordinary stack tops.
+
+
+SAMPLE STACK.
+
+With some, the idea seems to prevail, that the middle of the stack
+should be kept full from the ground up. With the center high enough to
+protect the stack after it is settled, it is impossible to lay out or
+even build straight up, for the outside sheaves are constantly slipping
+out, and the process of building rendered slow and tiresome, and when
+the stack is completed and settled, it will usually be found that the
+center has gone down so much and the outside so little, that the butts
+of the sheaves stick up and form excellent conductors to wet the stack.
+
+Usually at harvest the country is full of good stackers, and if, between
+that time and threshing, there is little or no rain, they live through
+and there is a good supply next year; but if, between stacking and
+threshing, a protracted rain occurs, vast multitudes are drowned, so
+that, at threshing time, but few good stackers are found alive.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Treatise on Grain Stacking, by John DeLamater
+
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