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DeLamater. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 15%; + margin-right: 15%; +} + +h2 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +h1 { + text-align: center; + clear: both; + font-size: 1.5em; + line-height: 1.7em; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +p.title { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1.5em; + margin-bottom: .7em; + font-size: 120%; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color:gray; +} /* page numbers */ + +.small {font-size:70%;} +.big {font-size:180%;} +.xlarge {font-size:200%;} +.normal {font-weight:normal;} + +.notestitle { + font-size: 160%; + text-align: center;} + +.bbox {border-style: solid; + border-width: 1px; + padding: 1.5em; + width: 60%; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + margin-bottom: 3em;} + +.center {text-align: center;} +.right {text-align: right;} +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +.whitespace { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; + margin-top: 6em; + margin-bottom: 4em; + width: 200px; +} + +</style> + </head> + + + +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's A Treatise on Grain Stacking, by John DeLamater + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Treatise on Grain Stacking + Instructions how to Properly Stack all kinds of Grain, so + as to preserve in the best possible manner for Threshing + and Market. + +Author: John DeLamater + +Release Date: December 7, 2010 [EBook #34586] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TREATISE ON GRAIN STACKING *** + + + + +Produced by Rose Mawhorter and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + +<div class="bbox"><span class="notestitle">Production Notes</span> +<ul> +<li>Pg 8. The word 'is' has been changed to the word 'as' in line 2.</li> +<li>Pg 8. The spelling of the word 'layed' has been retained.</li></ul></div> + + +<h1><span class="big">A TREATISE</span><br /> + +<span class="small">—ON—</span><br /> + +<span class="xlarge">GRAIN STACKING</span><br /> + +<span class="small">GIVING</span><br /> + +<span class="normal">Instructions how to Properly Stack all<br /> +kinds of Grain, so as to preserve in<br /> +the best possible manner for<br /> +Threshing and Market.</span></h1> + +<hr /> +<p class="center">BY<br /> +<span class="big"><span class="smcap">JOHN N. DeLAMATER.</span></span></p> +<hr /> + +<p class="center">NORWALK, O.:<br /> +The Norwalk Chronicle Print.<br /> +1884.<br /><br /> +</p> + + + +<p class="center"> Entered according to act of Congress in the year 1884,<br /> +By <span class="smcap">JOHN N. DeLAMATER</span>,<br /> +In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D.C.</p> + + + + +<hr /> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/i003.png" width="200" height="30" alt="Decorative horizontal break." /> +</div> + +<p>So far as I am aware, this is an untried field +of labor—a pioneer work which I have had under +consideration for the last fifteen years; during +which time the closest attention has been given to +details of building, and careful observations made +on results, when the stacks were being taken down.</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">JOHN N. DeLAMATER.</span><br /> +</p> + +<div class="whitespace"> +<img src="images/i004.png" width="200" height="186" alt="Decorative plant arrangement." /> +</div> + + + +<hr /> +<h2>TREATISE ON GRAIN STACKING.</h2> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/i005.png" width="200" height="38" alt="Decorative horizontal break." /> +</div> + +<p class="title">PLACING FOUNDATION.</p> + +<p>If convenient, make a foundation of rails, by +placing three rails about four and one-half feet +apart and parallel, and then add half or two thirds +the length of a rail to each, and cover by laying +rails crossways, and finish by laying a large rail +or post in the center lengthways.</p> + +<p>This will form a foundation large enough for ten +or twelve large loads. If rails, poles or boards +cannot be had for an entire foundation, endeavor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> +to get something to support the heads of a few center +sheaves; for if sheaves are set on end to commence +a stack, the middle is apt to settle too +much.</p> + + +<p class="title">COMMENCING TO BUILD.</p> + +<p>On the rail foundation, lay around the center in +the form of an ellipse, with the heads lapping well +across the center rail; lap half and continue to lay +towards the outside until foundation is covered. +Now commence at the outside and lay a course +around, neither laying out or drawing in, except to +correct any little error that may occur in the elliptical +form of the stack; complete the courses to +the center, but don't fill the middle too full; if the +outside is lower than the middle, lay a double +course around outside; keep your stack <i>flat</i>—full +as high at outside as center; build the first load +straight up, neither laying out or drawing in, if +the stack is to contain ten or twelve loads; if eight +or nine, lay the last course out a little.</p> + + +<p class="title">LAYING OUT.</p> + +<p>If the stack is flat and as near an ellipse as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> +eye can judge, laying out and keeping the stack +properly balanced will be very easy. Drive alternate +loads on opposite sides of the stack: this will +help to keep the stack properly balanced. If the +eye detects a place that seems to be lower than +the general level, it will be found that it was caused +by laying out more there than at other points; to +remedy this defect, draw in the next outside course +at the low point six, eight or ten inches, according +to the depression. The greater the depression, the +more it should be drawn in, and the next inside +course at the low point should be shoved out nearly +to the buts of the outside course, then continue +to build as though nothing had happened. If a +high place should be observed, the next outside +course should be laid farther out, and inside course +at this point drawn well in. Glance frequently +over the stack and see if the outside presents the +appearance of an ellipse, and keep a sharp lookout +for high and low spots. If the middle is too full, +the outside will slip out, and an undesirable job of +propping will begin. Put in two thirds of what is +intended for the stack before commencing to draw +in. Don't let a stack stand over night at this stage<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> +if it can be avoided, but put on the next two loads +as quickly as possible, for the outside of the stack +will settle rapidly.</p> + + +<p class="title">FILLING THE MIDDLE.</p> + +<p>Lay a tier of bundles through the center half the +length of the stack, alternating heads and buts, +then lay a course around with the heads lapping +across the middle tier; now another tier through +the center, and two courses around it; then another +tier at center and courses around, until the center +is three or four feet higher than the outside of the +stack, and the last course layed laps half way from +head to band on the outside course of the stack. It +will be seen that while building the main part of +the stack, the courses were laid from outside to +center, and while filling the middle or putting in +the stuffing, the courses are laid from center towards +outside. Now commence outside, lay a +course, heads out, half way from band to but on +outside course, then turn buts out, lap half and +lay to center; then lay a course around outside, +neither laying out or drawing in.</p> + +<p>Now comes a point that should not be overlooked:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> +Lay a course, buts out, lapping half way from +heads to band on outside course; then lap half and +lay to center.</p> + +<p>The reason for laying the buts of second course +half way from heads to band is to give the buts of +the next outside course above a chance to rest firmly +on the course below, leaving no unoccupied +space; if the buts of second course were laid out +to the band of outside course, then the next outside +course above, being drawn in, would rest one-third +of the way from band to but, on the buts of +the course below, leaving a space for rain to drive +in and wet the stack. Draw in outside course rapidly; +lay buts of second course half way from +head to band on outside course as long as stack +top is large enough; keep middle well piled up.</p> + +<p>A stack can be drawn in very rapidly, without +danger of taking in water from a protracted rain, +even if the outside of the stack grows green, no +sheaf will be found wet above the band, and the +middle of stack dry, for the buts of outside course +will form a thatch roof to protect the stack.</p> + +<p>The placing of a few top bundles is a matter of +small importance. If a stack has been properly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> +built it will receive but little injury if top bundles +should blow off. A strand or two of wire, with +sticks or stones at the ends to weight them down, +will usually hold the top in place.</p> + + +<p class="title">RECAPITULATION.</p> + +<p>The first load being built straight up and flat on +top forms a firm and secure base on which to build +the upper structure.</p> + +<p>Laying out or putting in the bulge is the most +important part of the stack, for it contains the +greater part of the grain; by laying out and keeping +the stack <i>flat</i>, the work can be done rapidly, +and when the stack settles the buts will hang +down, for there is nothing to hold them up.</p> + +<p>Filling the middle corresponds to putting rafters +on a building to support the roof.</p> + + +<p class="title">SUGGESTIONS.</p> + +<p>I have found in the course of a long experience, +that a foundation eleven or twelve feet wide and +eighteen or twenty feet long, and a stack built in +the form of an ellipse, and so as to contain ten or +twelve large loads, to be the most convenient and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +economical. Grain can be put into a stack of this +size much more rapidly than in small stacks. If a +stack is built much larger it will require more labor +to pass the bundles across the stack, and will +have to be carried much higher before it is topped +out, which takes time and hard work.</p> + +<p>The elliptical form I have found the best; +with a load driven to the side of the stack, +the pitcher is never very far from the stacker; +the stack is easily kept balanced, and at threshing +time the grain is readily got to the machine. In +a round stack of the same size, the stacker gets +farther away from the pitcher, and it requires more +skill to keep a round stack properly balanced; but +if a round stack, after it is finished and settled, +looks like an egg standing erect on the large end, +that is good enough; it will not take water, and +looks well, too. A square stack, or one with corners, +is easily kept balanced, but in turning the +corners there is too much fullness at the heads of +the bundles, and when the stack settles there will +usually be a sag on each side to catch water.</p> + +<p>Two stakes, one eight and the other ten rods +away, and in line with the center of foundation,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> +will sometimes assist the stacker in keeping his +stack well balanced, for at a glance he can tell +whether the center is in line with the stakes. A +man may build, as his fancy dictates, either round, +elliptical or square, but in <i>all</i>, the same general +principles <i>must</i> be observed—the lower part of the +stack built straight up; put in a bulge which settles +down around and nearly conceals the lower +part, leaving the center of the bulge high; filling +the middle to support the center of the top. These +are the principles on which good stacking depends. +If a man gets them well fixed in his mind and discards +the idea that he must keep the middle full +from the ground up, he will have but little damaged +grain, even in the very worst of seasons.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>A boy to hand bundles is usually more damage +than good until a stack is half built, and then he +should not be allowed to stand on outside course. +If practical, drive alternate loads on opposite sides +of the stack; this is very desirable, but if, from +the nature of surroundings, it is necessary to drive +all on one side, draw the top of the stack over a +foot or two towards the side where the unloading<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +is done; the opposite side will settle considerably +the most, which will leave the stack straight up.</p> + + +<p class="title">FANCY STACKING.</p> + +<p>For a pyramid stack, build as usual up to within +two or three rounds of where drawing in commences, +then draw in a little at center of sides and +ends to bring the curves to straight lines; keep +the corners well out, observing the form of a rectangle +in filling the middle, and finish to top.</p> + +<p>For a gothic stack, build an ordinary one until +commencing to draw in, then draw in the oval corners +and build center of sides and ends straight up. +For an X stack draw in sides and ends; +build center straight up. These stacks look very +ornamental on a premium farm and will save well, +but take more time to build than ordinary stack +tops.</p> + + +<p class="title">SAMPLE STACK.</p> + +<p>With some, the idea seems to prevail, that the +middle of the stack should be kept full from the +ground up. With the center high enough to protect +the stack after it is settled, it is impossible to +lay out or even build straight up, for the outside<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +sheaves are constantly slipping out, and the process +of building rendered slow and tiresome, and +when the stack is completed and settled, it will +usually be found that the center has gone down so +much and the outside so little, that the butts of +the sheaves stick up and form excellent conductors +to wet the stack.</p> + +<p>Usually at harvest the country is full of good +stackers, and if, between that time and threshing, +there is little or no rain, they live through and +there is a good supply next year; but if, between +stacking and threshing, a protracted rain occurs, +vast multitudes are drowned, so that, at threshing +time, but few good stackers are found alive.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> + +<div class="whitespace"> +<img src="images/i015.png" width="200" height="173" alt="Decorative image." /> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p> + +<div class="whitespace"> +<img src="images/i016.png" width="200" height="198" alt="Decorative image." /> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's A Treatise on Grain Stacking, by John DeLamater + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TREATISE ON GRAIN STACKING *** + +***** This file should be named 34586-h.htm or 34586-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/5/8/34586/ + +Produced by Rose Mawhorter and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Treatise on Grain Stacking + Instructions how to Properly Stack all kinds of Grain, so + as to preserve in the best possible manner for Threshing + and Market. + +Author: John DeLamater + +Release Date: December 7, 2010 [EBook #34586] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TREATISE ON GRAIN STACKING *** + + + + +Produced by Rose Mawhorter and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + Production Notes: + Pg 8. The word 'is' has been changed to the word 'as' in line 2. + Pg 8. The spelling of the word 'layed' has been retained. + + + A TREATISE + + --ON-- + + GRAIN STACKING + + GIVING + + Instructions how to Properly Stack all + kinds of Grain, so as to preserve in + the best possible manner for + Threshing and Market. + + + BY + JOHN N. DELAMATER. + + + NORWALK, O.: + The Norwalk Chronicle Print. + 1884. + + + + + Entered according to act of Congress in the year 1884, + By JOHN N. DELAMATER, + In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D.C. + + + + +PREFACE + + +So far as I am aware, this is an untried field of labor--a pioneer work +which I have had under consideration for the last fifteen years; during +which time the closest attention has been given to details of building, +and careful observations made on results, when the stacks were being +taken down. + +JOHN N. DELAMATER. + +[Illustration] + + + + +TREATISE ON GRAIN STACKING. + +[Illustration] + + +PLACING FOUNDATION. + +If convenient, make a foundation of rails, by placing three rails about +four and one-half feet apart and parallel, and then add half or two +thirds the length of a rail to each, and cover by laying rails +crossways, and finish by laying a large rail or post in the center +lengthways. + +This will form a foundation large enough for ten or twelve large loads. +If rails, poles or boards cannot be had for an entire foundation, +endeavor to get something to support the heads of a few center sheaves; +for if sheaves are set on end to commence a stack, the middle is apt to +settle too much. + + +COMMENCING TO BUILD. + +On the rail foundation, lay around the center in the form of an ellipse, +with the heads lapping well across the center rail; lap half and +continue to lay towards the outside until foundation is covered. Now +commence at the outside and lay a course around, neither laying out or +drawing in, except to correct any little error that may occur in the +elliptical form of the stack; complete the courses to the center, but +don't fill the middle too full; if the outside is lower than the middle, +lay a double course around outside; keep your stack _flat_--full as high +at outside as center; build the first load straight up, neither laying +out or drawing in, if the stack is to contain ten or twelve loads; if +eight or nine, lay the last course out a little. + + +LAYING OUT. + +If the stack is flat and as near an ellipse as the eye can judge, +laying out and keeping the stack properly balanced will be very easy. +Drive alternate loads on opposite sides of the stack: this will help to +keep the stack properly balanced. If the eye detects a place that seems +to be lower than the general level, it will be found that it was caused +by laying out more there than at other points; to remedy this defect, +draw in the next outside course at the low point six, eight or ten +inches, according to the depression. The greater the depression, the +more it should be drawn in, and the next inside course at the low point +should be shoved out nearly to the buts of the outside course, then +continue to build as though nothing had happened. If a high place should +be observed, the next outside course should be laid farther out, and +inside course at this point drawn well in. Glance frequently over the +stack and see if the outside presents the appearance of an ellipse, and +keep a sharp lookout for high and low spots. If the middle is too full, +the outside will slip out, and an undesirable job of propping will +begin. Put in two thirds of what is intended for the stack before +commencing to draw in. Don't let a stack stand over night at this stage +if it can be avoided, but put on the next two loads as quickly as +possible, for the outside of the stack will settle rapidly. + + +FILLING THE MIDDLE. + +Lay a tier of bundles through the center half the length of the stack, +alternating heads and buts, then lay a course around with the heads +lapping across the middle tier; now another tier through the center, and +two courses around it; then another tier at center and courses around, +until the center is three or four feet higher than the outside of the +stack, and the last course layed laps half way from head to band on the +outside course of the stack. It will be seen that while building the +main part of the stack, the courses were laid from outside to center, +and while filling the middle or putting in the stuffing, the courses are +laid from center towards outside. Now commence outside, lay a course, +heads out, half way from band to but on outside course, then turn buts +out, lap half and lay to center; then lay a course around outside, +neither laying out or drawing in. + +Now comes a point that should not be overlooked: Lay a course, buts +out, lapping half way from heads to band on outside course; then lap +half and lay to center. + +The reason for laying the buts of second course half way from heads to +band is to give the buts of the next outside course above a chance to +rest firmly on the course below, leaving no unoccupied space; if the +buts of second course were laid out to the band of outside course, then +the next outside course above, being drawn in, would rest one-third of +the way from band to but, on the buts of the course below, leaving a +space for rain to drive in and wet the stack. Draw in outside course +rapidly; lay buts of second course half way from head to band on outside +course as long as stack top is large enough; keep middle well piled up. + +A stack can be drawn in very rapidly, without danger of taking in water +from a protracted rain, even if the outside of the stack grows green, no +sheaf will be found wet above the band, and the middle of stack dry, for +the buts of outside course will form a thatch roof to protect the stack. + +The placing of a few top bundles is a matter of small importance. If a +stack has been properly built it will receive but little injury if top +bundles should blow off. A strand or two of wire, with sticks or stones +at the ends to weight them down, will usually hold the top in place. + + +RECAPITULATION. + +The first load being built straight up and flat on top forms a firm and +secure base on which to build the upper structure. + +Laying out or putting in the bulge is the most important part of the +stack, for it contains the greater part of the grain; by laying out and +keeping the stack _flat_, the work can be done rapidly, and when the +stack settles the buts will hang down, for there is nothing to hold them +up. + +Filling the middle corresponds to putting rafters on a building to +support the roof. + + +SUGGESTIONS. + +I have found in the course of a long experience, that a foundation +eleven or twelve feet wide and eighteen or twenty feet long, and a stack +built in the form of an ellipse, and so as to contain ten or twelve +large loads, to be the most convenient and economical. Grain can be put +into a stack of this size much more rapidly than in small stacks. If a +stack is built much larger it will require more labor to pass the +bundles across the stack, and will have to be carried much higher before +it is topped out, which takes time and hard work. + +The elliptical form I have found the best; with a load driven to the +side of the stack, the pitcher is never very far from the stacker; the +stack is easily kept balanced, and at threshing time the grain is +readily got to the machine. In a round stack of the same size, the +stacker gets farther away from the pitcher, and it requires more skill +to keep a round stack properly balanced; but if a round stack, after it +is finished and settled, looks like an egg standing erect on the large +end, that is good enough; it will not take water, and looks well, too. A +square stack, or one with corners, is easily kept balanced, but in +turning the corners there is too much fullness at the heads of the +bundles, and when the stack settles there will usually be a sag on each +side to catch water. + +Two stakes, one eight and the other ten rods away, and in line with the +center of foundation, will sometimes assist the stacker in keeping his +stack well balanced, for at a glance he can tell whether the center is +in line with the stakes. A man may build, as his fancy dictates, either +round, elliptical or square, but in _all_, the same general principles +_must_ be observed--the lower part of the stack built straight up; put +in a bulge which settles down around and nearly conceals the lower part, +leaving the center of the bulge high; filling the middle to support the +center of the top. These are the principles on which good stacking +depends. If a man gets them well fixed in his mind and discards the idea +that he must keep the middle full from the ground up, he will have but +little damaged grain, even in the very worst of seasons. + + * * * * * + +A boy to hand bundles is usually more damage than good until a stack is +half built, and then he should not be allowed to stand on outside +course. If practical, drive alternate loads on opposite sides of the +stack; this is very desirable, but if, from the nature of surroundings, +it is necessary to drive all on one side, draw the top of the stack over +a foot or two towards the side where the unloading is done; the +opposite side will settle considerably the most, which will leave the +stack straight up. + + +FANCY STACKING. + +For a pyramid stack, build as usual up to within two or three rounds of +where drawing in commences, then draw in a little at center of sides and +ends to bring the curves to straight lines; keep the corners well out, +observing the form of a rectangle in filling the middle, and finish to +top. + +For a gothic stack, build an ordinary one until commencing to draw in, +then draw in the oval corners and build center of sides and ends +straight up. For an X stack draw in sides and ends; build center +straight up. These stacks look very ornamental on a premium farm and +will save well, but take more time to build than ordinary stack tops. + + +SAMPLE STACK. + +With some, the idea seems to prevail, that the middle of the stack +should be kept full from the ground up. With the center high enough to +protect the stack after it is settled, it is impossible to lay out or +even build straight up, for the outside sheaves are constantly slipping +out, and the process of building rendered slow and tiresome, and when +the stack is completed and settled, it will usually be found that the +center has gone down so much and the outside so little, that the butts +of the sheaves stick up and form excellent conductors to wet the stack. + +Usually at harvest the country is full of good stackers, and if, between +that time and threshing, there is little or no rain, they live through +and there is a good supply next year; but if, between stacking and +threshing, a protracted rain occurs, vast multitudes are drowned, so +that, at threshing time, but few good stackers are found alive. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's A Treatise on Grain Stacking, by John DeLamater + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TREATISE ON GRAIN STACKING *** + +***** This file should be named 34586.txt or 34586.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/5/8/34586/ + +Produced by Rose Mawhorter and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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