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diff --git a/34069-h/34069-h.htm b/34069-h/34069-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d5d6cb2 --- /dev/null +++ b/34069-h/34069-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,8781 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN" +"http://www.w3.org/TR/html4/loose.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Kut Prisoner, by H. C. W. 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C. W. Bishop</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: A Kut Prisoner</p> +<p>Author: H. C. W. Bishop</p> +<p>Release Date: October 14, 2010 [eBook #34069]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A KUT PRISONER***</p> +<br><br><center><h4>E-text prepared by David Clarke, Linda Hamilton,<br> + and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br> + (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br> + from page images generously made available by<br> + Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries<br> + (<a href="http://www.archive.org/details/toronto">http://www.archive.org/details/toronto</a>)</h4></center><br><br> +<p> </p> +<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> + <tr> + <td valign="top"> + Note: + </td> + <td> + Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries. See + <a href="http://www.archive.org/details/akutprisoner00bishuoft"> + http://www.archive.org/details/akutprisoner00bishuoft</a> + </td> + </tr> +</table> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full"> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<p style="text-indent:0em;padding-bottom:1.5em;"><span style="border-bottom:3px solid;font-size:1.15em;">ON ACTIVE SERVICE SERIES</span></p> + + +<p style="text-indent:0em;padding-bottom:1em;text-align:center;font-weight:bold;font-size:1.4em;">A KUT PRISONER</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:.5em;"><a name="frontis1"></a> +<img src="images/frontis1.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="348"> +<p class="caption">KASTAMUNI</p></div> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:.25em;"><a name="frontis2"></a> +<img src="images/frontis2.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="348"> +<p class="caption">THE CASTLE ROCK (KASTAMUNI)</p></div> + + +<div class="linearound newpg"> + +<p class="center" style="font-weight:bold;font-size:2em;padding-top:1em;margin-bottom:.2em;">A KUT PRISONER</p> + +<p class="center smcap" style="font-weight:bold;font-size: 1.2em;margin-top:.1em;padding-bottom:8em;">By H. C. W. BISHOP</p> + +<div style="padding-bottom:2em;font-size:.9em;white-space:nowrap;" class="center"> +LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD<br> +NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY. MCMXX +</div> +</div> + + +<p style="font-size:.7em;font-weight:bold;padding-top:2em;" class="center"> +PRINTED BY THE ANCHOR PRESS LTD., TIPTREE, ESSEX, ENGLAND.</p> +<a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii"></a> + +<p style="margin-left:25%;margin-right:25%;padding-top:2em;text-indent:0em;text-align:justify; text-justify:distribute-all-lines;" class="newpg">TO THE MEMORY OF ALL THOSE BRITISH +AND INDIAN OFFICERS AND MEN OF +THE KUT GARRISON WHO HAVE SUFFERED +AND DIED IN CAPTIVITY THIS +BOOK IS REVERENTLY DEDICATED</p> +<a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii"></a> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix"></a> +<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION</h2> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>T</span></span><span class="firstwords">he</span> +experiences related in the following +pages are simply the individual +fortunes of a subaltern of the Indian +Army Reserve of Officers who had his first +taste of fighting at the battle of Ctesiphon, +and was afterwards taken prisoner by the +Turks with the rest of the Kut Garrison, +ultimately succeeding in escaping from Asia +Minor. It is not intended to generalize in +any way, since an individual, unless of exalted +rank, sees as a rule only his own small environment +and cannot pretend to speak for +the majority of his comrades.</p> + +<p>The book is published in the hope that +it may prove of interest to the many relatives +and friends of the Kut prisoners.</p> + +<p>Acknowledgments are due to Messrs. +Blackwood, the <i>Times of India</i>, and the +<i>Pioneer</i> for their kind permission to republish +those chapters which originally appeared in +these papers.</p><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x"></a> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%" class="newpg"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi"></a> +<h2 style="padding-bottom:1em;"><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + + +<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="8" cellspacing="4" summary="Contents" align="center"> +<tr> +<td valign="bottom" align="right" width="10%"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER</span></td><td colspan="2" align="right" style="width: 90%; padding-bottom: 0em;" valign="bottom"><span class="smaller">PAGE</span></td> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">I.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">CTESIPHON</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">II.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom:.5em;">KUT</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">14</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">III.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">FROM KUT TO KASTAMUNI</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">34</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">IV.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">LIFE IN KASTAMUNI</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">80</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">V.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom:.5em;">ESCAPE FROM KASTAMUNI</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">104</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">VI.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">THE FIRST NIGHT</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">115</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">VII.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom:.5em;">ON THE HILLS</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">126</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">VIII.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">SLOW PROGRESS</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">135</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">IX.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">BLUFFING THE PEASANTS</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">147</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">X.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">REACHING THE COAST</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">158</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">XI.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">RECAPTURED</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">166</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">XII.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">RESCUED</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">174</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">XIII.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">IN HIDING WITH THE TURKS</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">184</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">XIV.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">CONTINUED DELAYS</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">104</a><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">XV.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">THREE DAYS ON THE BLACK SEA</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">208</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">XVI.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">THE CRIMEA AND HOME</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">219</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right">XVII.</td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">FRIENDS IN CAPTIVITY</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">230</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right"> </td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;"> APPENDIX A</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#APPENDIX_A">235</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right"> </td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;"> APPENDIX B</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#APPENDIX_B">238</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right"> </td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;"> APPENDIX C</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#APPENDIX_C">242</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="10%" align="right"> </td> +<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;"> APPENDIX D</td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#APPENDIX_D">244</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii"></a> +<h2 style="padding-bottom:1em;"><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<table border="0" width="90%" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="2" summary="List of Illustrations" align="center"> + +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="80%"><span class="toc">KASTAMUNI</span></td> +<td align="right" width="20%" colspan="2"><a href="#frontis1"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="80%"><span class="toc">THE CASTLE ROCK, KASTAMUNI</span></td> +<td> </td> +<td align="left"><a href="#frontis2">"</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="80%"> </td> +<td align="right" width="20%" colspan="2"><span class="smaller">TO FACE PAGE</span></td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">ELMEY BEY</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#elmey_bey">48</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">MAP USED ON JOURNEY TO THE BLACK SEA</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#journey">126</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">MAP SHOWING ROUTE OF ESCAPE</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#escape">180</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">BIHGAR BEY</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#bihgar_bey">196</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">BOAT IN WHICH THE PARTY CROSSED THE BLACK SEA</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#black_sea">210</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">MAP OF BLACK SEA</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#black_sea_map">214</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">ALUPKA</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#alupka">220</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">ALUPKA BATHS</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#alupka_baths">220</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">YALTA</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#yalta">224</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">THE THREE OFFICERS AND THREE OF THEIR RESCUERS</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#three">226</a></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="bottom"> +<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">THE THREE OFFICERS AND THE AKHARDASH</span></td> +<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#three_2">228</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a> + +<h1 style="padding-bottom:1.5em;">A KUT PRISONER</h1> +<a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER I</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">CTESIPHON</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>I</span></span><span class="firstwords">n</span> +India, in the early days of the war, +a newly gazetted subaltern of the Indian +Army Reserve of Officers was sent for +a month's preliminary training to one of +the few remaining British regular battalions. +Afterwards he was attached to an Indian +Regiment, and, if fortunate, went on service +with the same battalion. A great number, +however, were sent off to join other units +in the field. In this way I found myself +arriving in Basra on October 2nd, 1915, +with a draft for a regiment<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> of whom I had +known nothing a few days before leaving +India. However, the "Nobody's Child" +feeling was very soon a thing of the past, +and I was welcomed by a mess full of the +best comrades any fellow could desire.</p> + +<p>The battle of Es-Sinn had just taken<a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a> +place, and the 6th Division under General +Townshend were then following the Turks +up the Tigris above Kut. Our own fortune +appeared to be to remain in Basra as part +of the garrison; but, much to every one's +delight, different news came a week or two +later and on the 25th October we set off up +stream, hoping to get right through to the +front but with some fear that we might be +kept at Amara.</p> + +<p>In those days travelling up the Tigris +took a long time, and we spent a fortnight +in reaching Azizie, a journey which can now +be accomplished mostly by rail in two days.</p> + +<p>The regiment was accommodated on two +of the river steamers, each having two big +barges lashed alongside. The current is considerable +and the heavily weighted steamer +could only advance very slowly. In many +places the river becomes very narrow, especially +between Kurna and Amara, and much +time was spent in bumping into sand-banks +and struggling to get clear.</p> + +<p>We made short halts at Kurna, Amara, +and Kut, the latter striking one as a horribly +dusty and dirty little Arab town. +Every night we used to tie up to the bank, +as navigation by night was too risky with +so little water in the river. On the last<a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a> +stretch to Azizie, we were warned to be on +the alert for Arab snipers, and great preparations +were made accordingly. A few +shots were fired next morning, but nothing +more than one Arab in the distance was seen. +Other boats and convoys coming up had a +much more lively time from raiding parties +of the local tribes.</p> + +<p>Azizie was reached in the afternoon, and +presented a scene of the greatest activity. +The village itself consisted of only a few mud +huts, but for some distance along the dusty +bank of the river General Townshend's force +was concentrated. Nothing could be a greater +contrast to the deserted stretches of country +through which we had passed than the bustle +and life of a force about to advance.</p> + +<p>A few days later—on Monday, November +15th—the whole of the 6th Division and +attached troops were on the march for +Bagdad, the first stage being El Kutunie, +some seven miles only. Here three days were +spent and the final preparations completed. +There was a little sniping at night from the +further bank of the river, but this was quickly +dealt with by the <i>Firefly</i>, the first of the new +monitors to come into commission on the +river.</p> + +<p>Great excitement prevailed on the night<a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a> +of the 18th when it was suddenly reported +that the whole Turkish Force, which considerably +outnumbered our own, was on the +march to attack us and was expected to arrive +and commence hostilities before morning. +We spent a very industrious night, digging +feverishly and wondering when the enemy +would turn up.</p> + +<p>Morning arrived, to find many trenches +but no sign of the Turks, and we later found +that the previous reports had been entirely +misleading. However, fresh orders were soon +received, and not long after daybreak the +whole force was off again, split into various +columns whose mission was to encompass +and annihilate the Turkish advance troops +at Zeur, about ten miles further on. However, +the enemy eluded us, as he had done +previously, and got away just in time. After +doing several miles across country in attack +formation, always expecting to hear firing +beginning in front, we found we had arrived +in the position the Turks had just vacated.</p> + +<p>Next day a short march brought us to +Lajj, a small hamlet on the river which was +to be our jumping-off place for the forthcoming +battle, and, as we believed, triumphal +march on to Bagdad. All except the minimum +of kit had been left at Azizie, whence<a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a> +it was to follow by steamer to Bagdad as +soon as might be.</p> + +<p>Before leaving Azizie, the general had +given all senior officers some idea of the +problem we had to tackle, and they realized +it would be no walk-over. The rest of us, +fortunately, thought only of a repetition of +the former successes, and that we should +enjoy a cheerful Christmas in Bagdad.</p> + +<p>Detailed maps had been issued, not only +of the Turks' position at Ctesiphon, but also +of Bagdad and the methods to be adopted +to push the enemy through and out of the +city.</p> + +<p>At Lajj we were about nine miles from the +Arch of Ctesiphon, built by Chosroes I. in +the 6th cent. B.C. and round which battles had +been fought from time immemorial. From +the top of a sand-dune near general headquarters, +the magnificent ruin was clearly +visible standing up gaunt and alone above +the flat plain. The Turks' position surrounded +the Arch and stretched back on both banks +of the river.</p> + +<p>We bivouacked one night at Lajj and at +nine o'clock the following evening—Sunday, +November 21st—the final advance began.</p> + +<p>Our plan was to surround and defeat the +Turks on the left bank, where the greater<a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a> +part of their forces lay, and to drive them back +on the Tigris or Diala River.</p> + +<p>The force was split into four columns, +which were to attack from different angles, +the "Flying" column being deputed to complete +the victory by dashing on to Bagdad +and seizing the Bagdad end of the Samarra +Railway.</p> + +<p>At midnight we reached our station on +some sand-hills about four to five miles due +east of the Arch, which we could see very +clearly as soon as it became light. It was a +bitterly cold night and after digging in we +lay down to get what sleep we could before +dawn broke.</p> + +<p>The attack was to be begun by the +columns further north, who had had a +longer march and were further round the +Turkish flank.</p> + +<p>There appeared to be considerable delay +on their part, and it was an hour after the +advertised time when our advance began. +In the meantime a troop of Turkish cavalry +had come out on a reconnaissance, but had +thought better of coming up as far as our +sand-hills and, after hesitating, retired unmolested +by us.</p> + +<p>As we debouched from the high ground, +we could see masses of Turks, apparently<a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a> +retiring in orderly formation towards their +second line or still further, and the thought +occurred that they were not going to wait +even for us to attack. Actually, however, +these were troops from the other side of the +river being hastily brought across to strengthen +the Turkish reserves opposite to us.</p> + +<p>Our particular destination was a point +marked V. P. on our map, and understood +to be the "Vital Point" of the Turkish line. +It fell quickly to our attack, but was not +carried at a light cost, and, still worse, was +not so all-essential to the Turkish resistance +as it should have been. Our advance was +held up on the Turkish second line and, +unfortunately, we were not powerful or +numerous enough to break this also. The +Turks had a fine position and their trenches +were sighted with the greatest skill. Aided +by the mirage effect, it was almost impossible +to discern these trenches until right upon +them; we, on the other hand, were out in +the open plain, which was as flat as a billiard +table and offered no cover of any sort. The +Turkish front line was protected with barbed +wire, and had they been provided with more +machine-guns and been prepared to see things +out a little longer, we should have fared very +badly. As it was, we lost heavily in taking<a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a> +V. P. and the adjacent trench lines, and were +too crippled to do much more.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon the Turks counterattacked; +but our guns were too much for +them, and they gained nothing.</p> + +<p>Evening found a confused force bivouacked +round V. P. There were dreadful gaps in all +ranks. About midnight I found my way +back to my own battalion, to discover the +colonel and M. O., the only two officers still +carrying on. One other subaltern besides +myself had been posted away from the regiment +during the day, but, of the rest, only +two were left out of ten who had gone into +action with the battalion that morning. Other +regiments were in much the same state, and +it was evident that we had suffered terribly +and had not completely smashed the enemy. +Later on we heard that our casualties had +reached a total of nearly 5,000, while the +Turks were said to have lost twice this +figure.</p> + +<p>The next morning we took up our position +along the Turks' old front line, and no more +fighting took place until the afternoon, when +the Turks came back once more. Attacks +followed during the night and prospects +were considered anything but rosy for us by +those in authority. However, the Turks<a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a> +had had enough, and by next morning were +again out of range.</p> + +<p>It was imperative for us now to get closer +to the river for water, and accordingly the +remnant of the force concentrated in the +angle of the "High Wall," an ancient relic +of the old wall of Ctesiphon, now a high bank, +forming a right angle, each arm being about +a quarter of a mile long. During the day +the wounded were evacuated, being taken +back to Lajj on A. T. carts. It was a pitiable +sight seeing these poor fellows go. These +were the days before the Mesopotamian +Commission—springless carts were all that +were available and a number of wounded +must have been literally bumped to death over +those eight rough miles back to Lajj. The +memory of those jolting carts with their +grimy battered loads of tortured humanity +is one not soon to be forgotten.</p> + +<p>The night passed in peace, but the following +afternoon the Turks were seen advancing +in several columns, and we were given orders +to pack up at once. Soon after dark we were +ready, but it seemed an age until the head of +the column got clear away and our own +brigade, who were in rear, could move. +Meanwhile the Turks were expected to arrive +on the scene at any minute, and everything<a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a> +appeared gloomy in the extreme. Ammunition +which could not be removed had been +hastily buried. Large fires were lit to help +our departure and endeavour to deceive the +enemy. Cheerful prospects of rearguard +actions all night over unknown country +seemed all that was in store for us. However, +fortune was with us again; the Turks +hesitated once more and we were not attacked +at all during the night. After a weary march +through thick dust and sand, we reached +Lajj in the early hours of the morning, and +were greeted by a heavy downpour, which, +fortunately, stopped just before we were +quite soaked through.</p> + +<p>Digging was again the order as soon as it +was light, and arrangements were made to +give the Turks a very hot reception if they +intended to come on at once.</p> + +<p>The following day digging continued, but +in the afternoon we were again told to get +under way, as the Turks apparently were +close upon us.</p> + +<p>A long all-night march, only varied by +Arab sniping, brought us back to Azizie +the following forenoon. Here digging began +once more, and it was not at first known +if we should remain here and see it out +or go back further right down to Kut,<a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a> +some 58 miles. The latter course was +decided on next day and, having collected +what little of our old kit we could still +find, we set off once again southwards, and +bivouacked by the river near Umm El +Tubul, eleven miles further on.</p> + +<p>At eight in the evening, we were just congratulating +ourselves on having at last a +snug spot for a night's rest, when firing +began and our pickets were soon driven in. +However, the enemy did not make the expected +attack during the night—which we spent +in a nullah awaiting him.</p> + +<p>As soon as it was light, we could see a +large Turkish camp, not much more than a +mile distant. The first orders were that +we should go out and attack; so we lined +up for this purpose. Just as we were ready, +fresh orders arrived, and we retired to the +nullah while our guns opened with rapid +fire on the Turkish camp. Meanwhile, there +was great bustle in our rear, where the +transport was being hurriedly got away for +a further march towards Kut.</p> + +<p>We were told later on that the Turks thought +they had only come up against a weak rearguard +and were correspondingly dismayed +by our gun-fire. They were said to have +had 2,000 casualties on this day. However,<a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a> +they pushed on and we had to retire. +Previous to this, Turkish shells had been +coming over, but not doing very much +damage.</p> + +<p>The old gun-boat, the <i>Comet</i>, and also the +<i>Firefly</i>, were both put out of action while +waiting to cover our retreat, and had to be +abandoned to the enemy.</p> + +<p>By midday we had shaken off the advancing +Turks, having done many miles across +country which seemed to grow camel thorn +in every direction. This shrub is most unpleasant +to march through in shorts, and +many were the torn knees in consequence.</p> + +<p>A few hours on the ground late that night +gave us a little rest; but it was too cold +to sleep, and we were soon sitting up round +fires of brushwood which the men had +lighted. Many of us had had no food since +daybreak, and had to fall back on our +emergency rations where these were still in +existence.</p> + +<p>Next morning we were off once more, and +after another long, wearisome day reached +a camp only a very few miles from Kut +itself, having done over 40 miles in the +last 36 hours.</p> + +<p>Kut was entered the following morning, +December 3rd, but it was not decided till<a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a> +some hours later what position we should +take up.</p> + +<p>During the next two days we could walk +about above ground without molestation, +but snipers arrived all too soon, and by +Monday, December 6th, Kut was entirely +surrounded and the siege had begun.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="fnlabel">[1]</a> The 66th Punjabis.</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">KUT</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>I</span></span><span class="firstwords">f</span> +the Turks had hurried up, they would +have come upon us without properly +dug trenches and we should have been +taken at a great disadvantage. As it was, however, +by the time they did arrive, we were dug +in and had a good front line trench, although +most of the support and communication +trenches still had to be dug. After the first +two or three days, all trench work had to be +done at night, as conditions by daylight were +not healthy.</p> + +<p>Life was not particularly pleasant during +any part of the siege, and for the first few +days we who were outside Kut had no dug-outs, +all energy being spent on getting the +front line firing trench ready. This would +have been no hardship but for the fact that +we had arrived back in Kut with a biting +north wind, causing several degrees of frost +at night, and an ice-covered bucket for one's +ablutions in the morning.<a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a></p> + +<p>Throughout the siege, the Tigris formed +our only water supply, this being carried in +at night in kerosine tins by the regimental +bheesties. Drinking water was purified with +alum, which got rid of most of the sediment. +Tigris is a poor drink at any time and seems +particularly nasty when spoiling good whisky.</p> + +<p>On Monday, December 6th, the cavalry +brigade left at daybreak and were the last +people to get away from Kut. Many wounded +and sick had been sent down stream during +the day or two previously, the lighter cases +being left in the hospital at Kut to recover +and rejoin.</p> + +<p>In those early days, no one thought of a +siege lasting more than a month, the general +being reputed to be counting on relief by the +New Year.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile, the Turks had been very busy: +not only had they been digging at a furious +pace opposite to us and sapping up closer +and closer, but they had also sent considerable +forces further on down-stream, to near +Shaik Saad, to oppose the Relieving Force +which was there concentrating.</p> + +<p>The night after the cavalry brigade had +gone out, the boat bridge over which they +had passed to the right bank was demolished +under the noses of the enemy.<a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a></p> + +<p>This gallant feat was performed by Lieut. +Matthews, R.E., and Lieut. Sweet, who +volunteered for the job. Both men, we +hoped, would receive the V.C. By the +greatest good fortune, the Turks were entirely +surprised, and the bridge was blown up +before they realized what was happening or +could offer any resistance. Both officers +received the D.S.O.</p> + +<p>The story of the siege has been told in +detail by others, and it is not intended here +to attempt it. One saw only one's own small +corner, and never knew what to believe of +all the rumours and scandal in which a +besieged town seems to be particularly +prolific.</p> + +<p>After the first fortnight, a regular routine +was started. The 16th Brigade took alternate +turns with the 30th along the main trench +line, while the 17th garrisoned the Fort, +and the 18th looked after the town itself and +Woolpress village.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the medical people had been +busy moving from their hospital tents to the +covered-in bazaar, which was now converted +into wards.</p> + +<p>For the first few days, the men were given +extra rations to recuperate them after the +wearying retreat and for the strenuous trench-<a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>digging +in progress. It was not until January +10th that we were cut down to two-thirds +full rations.</p> + +<p>The first Turkish shells arrived on December +5th, but did little harm. Throughout the +siege, we had much cause to be thankful for +the very large proportion of "duds" amongst +all classes of Turkish shell. Fortunately, +also, they had no high explosives, or Kut +would have been a heap of ruins in no time.</p> + +<p>The mud of Mesopotamia deserves mention +in this connection. It is as disagreeable as +but rather more glutinous than most other +brands of the same substance, and when +baked dry by the sun is singularly impenetrable +to rifle bullets. All the rules found in +military pocket-books were quite upset by +it, some eight inches of the best variety +being quite enough to stop any bullet. For +the same reason, trench digging in some places +was very slow and tedious work, as the +ground at that time was dry and hard, +seeming more like cast iron than anything +else.</p> + +<p>During the early part of the siege, regiments +in the 16th and 30th Brigades, on being +relieved in the front line, returned to a +bivouac in Kut and did some hours' digging +on the way, the operation being carried out<a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a> +at night. The following night was as a rule +allowed us in peace, but for the next three or +six nights, until again relieved, one was +generally out digging or in "support" to +some part of the line, so that "being relieved" +did not mean much rest for anybody. +The bivouac had a further disadvantage +in that we had as many casualties here as in +the front line. Dropping bullets would come +in at odd moments from all directions, and +it was impossible to keep clear of them. +Some unfortunate was laid out nearly every +day in this way.</p> + +<p>The Turks never once tried to shell our +front line, but spent all their attentions on +the town and the Fort. A tremendous +"hate" preceded their attack on the latter +on Christmas Eve. They succeeded in blowing +a breach in the mud wall of the Fort in +the north-east bastion, and afterwards assaulted +with great dash. Fighting was extremely +fierce and the Turks lost very heavily +from our machine-guns. There was much +hand bombing, this being the only occasion +during the siege when fighting at close +quarters took place.</p> + +<p>After gaining a footing through the breach +into our trenches, the Turks were dislodged, +but came on again later, and at midnight,<a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a> +December 24th, were still in possession of +the north-east bastion. However, they +thought better of it, and by the morning of +December 25th had all disappeared again. +As a result of this fighting, we had about +400 casualties, while the Turks were said to +have lost 2,000. Be that as it may, they +never made another attack on our lines.</p> + +<p>Khalil Pasha, the Turkish commander, +was said afterwards to have told one of the +British generals that he was just preparing +another tremendous attack at the end of +January, meaning to smash his way into Kut +at any cost, when the floods intervened, and +drove him back over half a mile, while we +had also to return to the "middle" line—our +second line trench some 300 yards behind +the first. He stated that he was prepared +to lose 10,000 in the attempt.</p> + +<p>Christmas Day passed peacefully, much +to our satisfaction, and from now onwards +there was great speculation as to the day of +relief. We knew that General Aylmer's force +was to start during the first days of January, +and it was predicted that by January 9th or +10th the siege would be over.</p> + +<p>By the first week in January, all fresh +meat was finished, but for a time we had +"bully."<a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a></p> + +<p>The Relieving Force suffered its first serious +check at Shaik Saad and never arrived, as +we had hoped. There was nothing to be +done but to carry on and wait till next time. +The weather now was cold and wet and the +trenches often knee deep in mud and water. +Kut itself was in a filthy state, the streets +being a sea of mud after every downpour. +The Tigris was steadily rising throughout +January and by the 20th was near the top +of the bund running along the bank. Heavy +rain on this day and the next, together with +the rise in the river, was responsible for +flooding out the Turks' front <a name="tn_png_34"></a><!--TN: Period added after "line"-->line. They +managed, however, to turn the water over +towards us, with the result that we, also, +were drowned out of the corresponding part +of our line, the effect of this being that there +was now a good distance between the new +front lines. For two days we could walk +about in the open, and were much interested +in seeing the old Turkish trenches, and taking +all possible firewood in the shape of old +ammunition boxes from their loopholes. We +found that one of their saps was only forty +yards from our trench, and many were the +bombs they had thrown which just fell +short.</p> + +<p>The most interesting relics were numbers<a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a> +of pamphlets tied to sticks and bits of earth +and thrown towards our line. These were +effusions printed in various languages by the +Indian National Society, Chicago,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and contained +much startling information. The +Sepoys were informed that no British were now +left in several N.W. Frontier districts, and +were recommended, as brave soldiers, to +murder their British officers and join the +Turks. The Sultan was represented as being +ready to give land to every one who would +respond to this invitation. As regards Gallipoli, +it was stated that Sir Ian Hamilton +had been wounded and that Lord Kitchener +had run away in the night, taking the British +troops with him and leaving the Indians, +who thereupon murdered their officers and +joined the Turks.</p> + + +<p>Very few, if any, of these leaflets reached +the Sepoys, and, as far as we could see, left +them unmoved.</p> + +<p>After two days' freedom above ground, a +reconnaissance was sent out to locate the +Turkish outposts. This had the immediate +effect of starting great activity in the Turkish +pickets some 1,200 yards from our line, and +from that day onwards snipers were always<a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a> +busy. Even so, life was very much pleasanter +than when the enemy was within 100 yards.</p> + +<p>By January 13th we were down to half +rations, and by January 23rd were still +further reduced. On the 26th, the general +issued a long <i>communiqué</i>, telling us of how +the Relieving Force had been unsuccessful +so far, having had heavy losses and very bad +weather to contend against. He announced +that there were 84 days' more ample rations +without counting the 3,000 animals.</p> + +<p>Actually the siege went on for another +94 days, but the rations were scarcely +ample, even including the horse meat. +However, at the time, it seemed that +there was nothing to worry about, especially +as the general said he was confident of being +relieved during the first half of February.</p> + +<p>With the beginning of February, we started +eating horse, mule and camel. There were +very few camels, but they were said to be +quite good eating. For the rest, mule is +very much to be preferred to horse. There +were also the heavy battery bullocks, but +these were not numerous, and were very thin +already.</p> + +<p>All the eggs and milk obtainable from Arabs +in the town were supposed to go to the hospitals, +but it was always said they did not<a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a> +receive nearly as much as they should have +done.</p> + +<p>During January and February, one could +buy several things from Arabs in the bazaar, +i.e., tea, dried beans, atta and "kabobs" +or small hot chapatties, cooked in grease. +The tea must all originally have come from +the S. & T. All the Arabs in Kut wore +Army socks very early in the siege. In fact, +it would be harder to find a race of more +expert thieves anywhere on the globe.</p> + +<p>Towards the middle of February, the +Turks began sending over an aeroplane to +bomb us. The pilot was a German, and knew +his business too well. After his first trip, +machine guns were rigged up to welcome +him the next time he came and the sappers +mounted a 13-pounder to fire as an anti-aircraft +gun.</p> + +<p>Considering the difficulties involved and +the absence of all special sighting arrangements +this gun made some very fair shooting. +But the only effect of all these efforts was +to make Fritz, the pilot, fly higher and +approach the town from a different direction. +The first time he came very little damage +was done; then one day a bomb demolished +an Arab house, killing a number of women +and children, and a second fell on the British<a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a> +hospital, where no less than 32 sick +and wounded men were killed outright or +horribly injured. The padre—the Rev. H. +Spooner—told me afterwards that no sight +he had witnessed at Ctesiphon could be +compared to that hospital ward. Presumably +Fritz was aiming at the ordnance yard +next door or some of the guns on the river +bank only a little further on. Had there +been more room and good buildings in Kut, +it would no doubt have been possible to put +the hospital in a safer spot, but, as it was, +no other building was available. Fritz always +succeeded in eluding our aeroplanes from the +Relieving Force. He had so little distance +to go home, whereas they had to come up +20 miles or more.</p> + +<p>Two main observation posts were maintained, +one above general headquarters in the +town, and the other in the Fort. There was +great rivalry between the two, and on one +occasion, a large flock of sheep was definitely +reported in the town as a considerable force +of the enemy moving to the rear. The Fort +maintained they were sheep and neither would +give in.</p> + +<p>We could see every day long strings of +camels on the horizon, carrying rations for +the Turks from their base at Shamrán above<a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a> +Kut down to their forces at Sanaiyat and +Magassis.</p> + +<p>The usual book of words about camels +informs the reader that they are liable +to slip and split themselves up if allowed +to travel over wet or slippery ground. In +Mesopotamia, however, the camel seems not +to worry at all when going over land submerged +by floods, and carrying on generally under all +conditions. He is a much wilder specimen +than the usual Indian camel, and our experience +before Ctesiphon was that he would +only lie down if one of his forelegs was folded +and bound up, and he was then hit on the +head with a thick stick.</p> + +<p>A feature of Kut which will not be forgotten +was the little chapel which our padre rigged +up in one of the few remaining upper rooms +of the battered Serai. This building was in an +exposed position on the river bank and suffered +more than any other from the Turkish +shells. The padre himself was indefatigable, +doing everything he possibly could in the +hospitals in addition to his other duties.</p> + +<p>Almost every day one or more of our +aeroplanes came over Kut, and some things +were dropped, but how we wished they would +drop us some letters. We knew there must +be a great accumulation of mails at Amara<a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a> +and it seemed so easy to arrange it. As it +was, some bags of letters were dropped for +the staff and even the S. & T. but, as usual, +the regimental officers came off worst. We +wanted news from home more than anything +else, and, as it turned out, most of us never +heard a word from our people till we had +reached Anatolia the following July after an +interval of eight months.</p> + +<p>Fortunately, we could get messages sent +out by the wireless, and once a month a +telegram was despatched to the depots in +India, saying that all were well, or something +equally brief but satisfactory to our friends +at home.</p> + +<p>Another great blessing afforded by the +wireless was the publication of a short summary +of Reuter's telegrams, which gave us +something else to talk of other than the everlasting +questions of food and the date of +relief. In particular, the taking of Erzerum +by the Russians cheered us up, and made us +hope that the Russian force approaching +Bagdad from Persia would be equally successful.</p> + +<p>In fact, at one time the betting was said +to be in favour of the Russian general, Baratoff, +relieving us from the north, before +our friends down-stream.<a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a></p> + +<p>With the arrival of March, every one was +full of excitement over the coming great +effort of the relieving force, which was +prophesied to take place on the 4th, but +was actually the 8th.</p> + +<p>Many schemes were prepared by which we +were to co-operate, so that after the Turks +had been started off rearwards by General +Aylmer, we might hasten their departure. +In most of these plans one brigade would +have to play the leading rôle, and probably +come in for a pretty hot time unless the Turks +had become quite demoralised; much speculation +arose, therefore, as to which brigade +would be given this post of honour.</p> + +<p>March 8th came and went and we realized +that another gallant attempt had failed. +The bombardment could be clearly heard, +and at night it was easy to see the shells +bursting. During the attack on the Dujailah +Redoubt our friends were only seven to eight +miles from us, and we could hear their rifle +and machine gun-fire.</p> + +<p>This failure was a great disappointment +and we realized what it must have cost in +casualties. There was only one thing for us +to do, namely, carry on; so the rations were +reduced again and life went on in its, by +this time, mechanical round. All were still<a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a> +confident of being relieved, and when it became +known that General Gorringe had taken over +command down stream we felt sure something +decisive would happen and that he +would get through, if anyone could.</p> + +<p>After every unsuccessful attempt, a Turkish +envoy promptly arrived with a white flag +and requested us politely to surrender. He +was as courteously and consistently refused.</p> + +<p>Rations were now down to 10 oz. of bread, +this being half atta and half barley. The +dates were finished and the small stocks of +mess stores which had been carefully eked out +were nearly finished. Still we had jam and +tea and the mule wasn't at all bad. Some +saccharine dropped by aeroplane gave us +something sweet, and was a great blessing.</p> + +<p>The efforts to get the Indians to eat meat +at the end of February had failed. They +declared that every village pundit would be +against them on their return to India and that, +in consequence, no one would give them their +daughters to marry.</p> + +<p>Everything possible to help religious +scruples was done, and special permission +obtained from the Imám at Delhi and other +religious authorities; but it was no use, and +not until the second week in April, when they +were literally starving, did the Indian troops<a name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a> +begin eating horse. No doubt, if they had +done so earlier, we could have held out for +some few days longer, but it is doubtful +whether this would have sufficed for our +relief.</p> + +<p>After March 8th, all horses not wanted for +food were shot to save their keep, and many a +good animal was sacrificed in this way.</p> + +<p>By the 19th, the bread ration was only +½ lb., while the Indians were getting 10 oz. +meal. The small quantity of food began now +to tell on the strength of all ranks, and cases +of bad enteritis—so-called—were common, +these resulting in many deaths during the +last days of the siege.</p> + +<p>It is really wonderful what an amount of +satisfaction can be derived, under such conditions, +from simply imagining a first-class +meal, and I remember one day, in my dug-out, +having a great time going through a long +menu and choosing everything I should like +best.</p> + +<p>When the grass began to grow towards +the end of March, we gathered what the +Sepoys called ság or anything we could make +a sort of spinach with. It was like eating +wet hay, but, undoubtedly, kept scurvy +down, and if well soaked in vinegar was not +so bad.<a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a></p> + +<p>In Woolpress they managed to get a little +fish from the river, fishing by night.</p> + +<p>Our activities after March 8th were directed +to keeping out the floods. Two big bunds +were made, one inside the other, round Kut. +The Arabs in the town were forced to work +on the inner one and thus saved the troops, +who were weak enough as it was already +with making the outer bund.</p> + +<p>By the end of March we had a splendid +bund across the middle line capable of keeping +out nearly three feet of water; this being +4 ft. 6 in. high and about 20 ft. thick at the +base, all the soil having to be excavated from +pits in front. The sappers had told us that +our mess dug-out was just about the lowest +spot round Kut and would be the first place +to be flooded; however, when the floods +really came, we found we were two feet higher +up than the regiment a little further along +the line. It was hard work making these +bunds, and all the men not otherwise on duty +were out every night. The bund also had +to form the firing parapet, and with barbed +wire entanglements in the "borrow" pits +in front and again beyond we were well protected +from any attack, not to mention the +floods which would have made an advance +by the enemy almost impossible.<a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a></p> + +<p>All through April the water slowly percolated +up and the dug-outs and trenches +had to be continually raised, until by the end +of the month we were nearly up to ground +level. The river rose to its highest level +during April, but fortunately news was received, +by wireless, from a British officer with +the Russians at Lake Urmia, of the various +floods, so that we were more or less prepared. +Actually we had never much more than +2 ft. 6 in. outside our bund, which held well. +Had we been driven back inside the inner +bund, the whole force would have been cooped +up in a very small area and any shelling would +have been bound to take a large toll.</p> + +<p>For the last ten days there was no tobacco +left. People were smoking used-up tea-leaves, +orange leaves, liquorice, and even grass. +Whatever smoking tea-leaves may be like +for the smoker, it is exceedingly unpleasant +for everybody else, especially in a dug-out.</p> + +<p>Throughout the April fighting we followed +each <i>communiqué</i> from General Gorringe with +the greatest anxiety, watching his shells +bursting over the Turkish lines by night and +always hoping on until after the <i>Julnar</i> had +failed to get through.</p> + +<p>The men were not told anything about this +attempt, but the 30th Brigade made ready<a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a> +to cover the unloading, in the event of the +gallant ship winning through. She was to +be beached by the Fort the same night and +unloaded before the Turks could bring their +guns to bear on her next morning. I remember +listening to the firing as she slowly made +her way up-stream; star-shells and flares +went up and lit up the scene and she met with +a terrible reception.</p> + +<p>Then, after a time, all firing ceased and we +realized that this splendid attempt had failed. +According to one member of the crew, all +went well until they reached Magassis, where +they struck a cable which gave way, but a +second one immediately afterwards stopped +them. Commander Firman, the naval officer +in charge, thought this was a sand-bank and +left his protection on the bridge to shout to +them to take a sounding. He was killed on +the spot. Cowley, the well-known skipper of +the ship, then took charge but they could not +get past the obstruction, and he himself was +soon very severely wounded by a shell, from +which he died when taken ashore.</p> + +<p>Eventually this magnificent attempt had +to be given up. It was a most heroic effort +and, had it been possible to steam faster, +would probably have been successful. As it +was, the ship was very heavily laden with a<a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a> +month's supplies for the garrison on board +and could only do five or six knots against +the very strong current. Even so, we still +fondly hoped that General Gorringe might +achieve the impossible at the last minute; +but it was not to be.</p> + +<p>The last few days we lived on the emergency +and reserve rations which each regiment had +in its keeping, and the food dropped by +aeroplanes from the Relieving Force. These +brought us white flour, some sugar and a little +chocolate. The bread ration, however, was +only 4 oz. or just one good slice a day each.</p> + +<p>We were all very weak and there was a +great deal of sickness. Enteritis, which seemed +not very different from cholera, was prevalent +and affected nearly everybody to some extent. +Not infrequently a Tommy going into Kut +from the front line would suddenly collapse, +often not to recover. I remember feeling +rather disappointed that I did not look thinner, +and one felt one ought to be a dreadful +scarecrow really to have done the siege justice.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2" class="fnlabel">[2]</a> See <a href="#APPENDIX_B">Appendix B</a>.</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">FROM KUT TO KASTAMUNI</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>O</span></span><span class="firstwords">n</span> +April 29th, Kut surrendered, and it +was with sad feelings that we watched +two Turkish battalions marching +in at midday. The bitter thought that they +should have worsted us in the end, together +with the knowledge of the useless sacrifice +of life by our friends down-stream, was present +to all; but there was also a great feeling of +relief that the siege was now over, and we +had not realized until this moment how +severe the strain had been.</p> + +<p>We believed the Turks would treat all +ranks well, as up to that moment they had +always fought and behaved like gentlemen. +Khalil Pasha, the Turkish general, had said +we should be treated as his "honoured +guests," and, since at that time we had not +had much experience of Turkish promises, +we were inclined to think all would be +well, although we knew the Turks themselves +were short of supplies and had<a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a> +great difficulty in feeding their troops down-stream.</p> + +<p>Orders came round telling us to destroy +everything that could be of use to the enemy, +only a few rifles being kept in case of trouble +with Arabs in the town before the Turks +arrived. Field-glasses, revolvers, maps, and +diaries all had to be destroyed and saddlery +burnt. It seemed a crime to be sacrificing +so much that was valuable, but this was +better than helping the enemy in any way. +The last works of destruction had only just +been completed when the Turkish troops +arrived, and great was their disgust at finding +all the guns destroyed, and nothing worth +taking but a few rifles.</p> + +<p>Some of us had kept our swords, thinking +that they would be returned to us in traditional +style, only to find them collected by +the first Turkish subaltern or N.C.O. who set +eyes on them. Those who were wiser had +thrown theirs in the river or buried them, +and we all wished we had done the same. +Later on, we heard that the officers' swords +from Kut had been displayed as an interesting +exhibit in some museum at Constantinople.</p> + +<p>The departure from Kut began that evening, +one steamer taking a full load up to +Shamrán, the Turkish base camp, some eight<a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a> +miles up-stream. We had still to depend on +the remnants of our own rations for that day +and the next, but fortunately they just +sufficed.</p> + +<p>Next day, as we moved up towards the old +Serai, near which the steamers were moored, +we had to pass a palm grove which had been +occupied by some Turkish soldiers. These +men were systematically looting any kit +which was being carried past, and to which +they had taken a fancy. A good deal was +lost in this way. The Turkish officers seemed +powerless to stop it, the culprits merely walking +away until the officer had departed.</p> + +<p>The steamer made two or three more trips +that day, but it was announced at noon that +all those left must march, their kit alone +going on the steamer. How they managed +that march in a starving condition they only +know who did it, but when the steamer +reached Shamrán on its last trip at midnight +they had all come in and been regaled with +Turkish ration biscuits. An amusing incident +occurred during this march. An Indian +sweeper—the humblest of all regimental followers—was +trudging along behind his regiment +carrying some of the articles of his +trade, when they passed some Turkish gun-pits +where there were several German officers<a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a> +standing. On seeing them the sweeper made +obeisance with the deepest of salaams; whereupon +the Germans promptly stood to attention, +clicked their heels and saluted.</p> + +<p>During the following days, we made ourselves +as comfortable as possible at Shamrán, +and, fortunately, got other food in addition +to the Turkish biscuits. These biscuits need +only be once seen or eaten never to be forgotten. +They are of a dark-brown colour, +unless mouldy, about six inches in diameter +and an inch thick in the centre, and made +from a very coarse meal, which must contain +anything except wheat. They are even harder +than the hardest of our own army biscuits.</p> + +<p>The Turks had allowed us to bring with us +what tents we had in Kut, and, although we +had to leave them behind at Shamrán, they +were of the greatest comfort to us during +the week which we spent there.</p> + +<p>A launch arrived from the relieving force, +bringing with it barges laden with food, +including a number of mess stores and gifts. +These we eventually got possession of, although +the Turks would not allow them to be +landed at our camp, but took them up-stream +some distance, where we expected they would +take a systematic toll of everything. Turkish +soldiers and Arabs brought in dates, a few<a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a> +oranges, and a syrup made from dates, which +they sold at excessive prices.</p> + +<p>Bathing was allowed in the river, and some +enthusiasts who still had fishing tackle spent +a considerable time on the bank, but without +much success.</p> + +<p>One day, General Townshend passed up-stream +in a launch accompanied by two or +three of his staff <i>en route</i> to Bagdad. All +ranks rushed to the bank to give him a parting +cheer, which one felt meant that all knew +he had done his best for us throughout.</p> + +<p>With the end of the siege one had expected +all the worst features of the last few weeks +to disappear, but the heavy mortality from +enteritis continued at Shamrán. It was +especially heavy amongst the British ranks, +in many cases being aggravated by a too +suddenly increased diet, of which the Turkish +biscuits formed a large part.</p> + +<p>A few days after our arrival, it was announced +that the men would all have to march +up, while officers would be taken up in batches +by the steamers. The first party to leave +contained the generals and staff, and most of +the officers from British units. The following +day the men were to march. Our doctors +insisted on a very thorough examination, as +a large proportion of the men were unable to<a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a> +march. The Turks would not, however, +accept the British doctors' decisions, and +reduced the unfit to a much smaller number.</p> + +<p>The result was that large numbers fell out +after the first day, and had to be taken on +board the <i>Julnar</i>, which was bringing up a +number of men from the Kut hospitals whom +the Turks considered not ill enough to be +exchanged. We were all convinced that +had it not been for German counsels at +Constantinople some arrangement for our +return on <i>parole</i> to India might have been +made.</p> + +<p>The men were told to take one blanket +or greatcoat each, as well as their haversacks +and water-bottles. They had no transport +whatever, and our hearts misgave us as we +watched them go. The column wound slowly +out of the camp with many checks, and it +was over an hour before they were clear; +all seemed to be carrying big loads, and many +things must have been thrown away or sold +before they reached Bagdad. The Turks +were only too anxious to buy, when they +could not steal any clothing, boots, or equipment, +their own clothing and equipment +being at a very low ebb after months of +service in Mesopotamia, to say nothing of +the long march down from Asia Minor.<a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a> +Many had no boots, and were just wearing +sandals of goat-skin, such as they are accustomed +to use in the country districts of +Anatolia.</p> + +<p>When the men had departed, the camp +seemed very forlorn; about 150 British and +Indian officers were left, while the hospital +tents contained many sick of all ranks.</p> + +<p>Two days later, on May 10th, the second +party of officers left on the steamer <i>Khalifa</i>, +which had on board a few German gunners +returning to Bagdad and a good number of +Turkish officers. The journey took three +days; on the second day we passed the +<i>Julnar</i>. She was covered with bullet-marks, +showing through what a severe fire she had +forced her way. Now she was loaded with +sick from Kut. We waved to those on board, +but were not near enough to speak to them.</p> + +<p>Our steamer used to tie up to the bank +for a short while twice a day, in the morning +and evening, enabling us to get a hurried +bathe and a little change from the cramped +space on the deck, where we spent the rest +of the time.</p> + +<p>The third day we passed the battlefield of +Ctesiphon, full of memories of the victory +which had proved so disastrous six months +before. We halted for the night not far<a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a> +from the Arch, and were greeted by the local +Arabs, who danced and fired off ancient rifles +and pistols in the air in derision at our captivity. +The women also contributed their +share by making a peculiar kind of trilling +sound. How we hoped they might soon +be singing in a very different fashion when +our troops should advance again and take +Bagdad.</p> + +<p>We reached Bagdad the next morning. +As we slowly paddled up the river, we could +see the Red Crescent flag floating from almost +every good house on the river sides; hospitals +seemed to be everywhere, and we realized +what awful casualties the Relieving Force +had inflicted on the Turks.</p> + +<p>For some miles before Bagdad is reached, +the river is fringed with palm groves, gardens, +and cultivated land. When we left Kut +the river was within a few feet of the highest +ground, but here the banks were very much +higher.</p> + +<p>We were landed at the old British Residency, +and, after a little delay, were formed up +in order of seniority and marched off along +what appeared to be the main road. It was +evidently arranged as a triumphal procession +to impress the inhabitants. At length, after +a march of two miles, passing through the<a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a> +covered-in bazaar, where the shade was most +welcome, we emerged on the north side of +the town, and reached our destination at the +Cavalry Barracks. We had been promised +furnished quarters, but found bare floors and +empty rooms; the building formed a large +quadrangle, and was empty of all troops +when we arrived. A little later our orderlies +and servants appeared, bringing our kit +from the steamer. On leaving Shamrán +colonels were allowed to take two orderlies +or Indian servants, other officers being +allowed one each.</p> + +<p>Fortunately, just before we left, some +money in Turkish gold had been sent up by +the Relieving Force by aeroplane, and thus +all ranks had a little cash.</p> + +<p>When the second party reached Bagdad, +the first party had already departed for Mosul, +and rumours arose about the journey, people +saying at first that we should have carriages +from the railhead at Samarra, then that only +donkeys would be available, while others +thought we should be lucky to get anything.</p> + +<p>While at the barracks we were given a +month's pay by the Turkish authorities, on +what proved to be for senior officers a very +generous scale, the greatest mercy being that +half the amount was paid in gold. Had this<a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a> +not been done, we should have been in a +truly sorry plight on the long journeys by +road across the desert, since no Arab would +look at Turkish notes, and insisted on being +paid in hard cash.</p> + +<p>At this time, the Russian force under +General Baratoff had made a sudden advance +through the Pusht-i-Kuh mountains and +reached Khanikin, 90 miles north-east +of Bagdad; the Turks were therefore very +anxious to get us away, while some of the +under-strappers, evidently thinking the Russians +would reach Bagdad, began to talk in a +very different strain, pretending that they +had really been pro-British all the time.</p> + +<p>Very few people succeeded in getting out +of the barracks, but two or three officers, +duly escorted, managed to get a gharry, and +drove straight to the American consul, who +arranged to give them money, and did everything +he could for them. He said he expected +to see many of us, and went on to tell them +exactly what he thought of the campaign +up to date. He was very pessimistic over the +future treatment of the British troops, and +declared that had we known what would +happen to them we would have cut our way +out of Kut at whatever cost. We hoped this +was exaggeration, and that things would not<a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a> +turn out as badly as he expected; but events +proved only too truly how entirely his fears +were justified. Hopelessly inadequate rations, +no transport, no medical arrangements for +the sick who fell out, and utter incapability +of all Turkish authorities, constitute one of +the blackest crimes committed during any +war.</p> + +<p>It is only right to add that whenever we +met German officers they did all they could +to help us, more than one saying they considered +that we and they were civilized people +in a land of barbarians.</p> + +<p>Two days after reaching Bagdad we were +paraded in the hot sun in the afternoon and +marched off to the station, passing over the +bridge of boats and through the Shia quarter +of the city, which lies on the right bank of +the river. We were all only too glad to get +away from the insanitary conditions which +are inseparable from all Turkish buildings.</p> + +<p>After a wait of two hours at the station, +we were packed into a train which started +about six o'clock. A few miles north of Bagdad +we passed the Great Mosque at Kazmain, +its golden domes and minarets shining +in the setting sun. The train proceeded at +a good rate; everything in connection with +the railway was naturally German, and of a<a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a> +substantial description. The length of line +then completed to the railhead at Samaria +was 80 miles, passing through slightly +undulating country the whole way. This +had been finished by the Germans before the +war broke out.</p> + +<p>Most of us were weary, and many preferred +lying on the floor of the corridors or vestibules +at the end of the cars, to sitting straight up +in the cramped compartments. We made +several halts, and it was near midnight when +we arrived. Our guards, a few gendarmes, +seemed to have no idea where we were going, +or what was to be done with us. Eventually +we were told to leave our kit, which was to be +brought along later, and were guided down +towards the river. After walking a mile, we +found ourselves in a small Arab village on +the river bank, and were conducted into a +courtyard some 40 yards square, where we +were told we were to stay. There was a rough +shelter round three sides, formed by brushwood +supported on a rough wooden framework; +this promised a certain amount of shade, +and we were all glad to be in the open air +rather than in another barrack building. +There were no signs of any transport fetching +our kit, so the most enterprising managed +to procure two trollies, and trundled them up<a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a> +to the station along a narrow-gauge line. +The Turks used this line for taking stores, +ammunition, etc., to the railway, from the +rafts on which they were floated down from +Mosul. By dawn, nearly all the kit had been +collected, and we had settled down as best +we could.</p> + +<p>There was a certain amount of food obtainable +from Arab vendors, and as we had our +Indian servants, and a few things left from +stores received at Shamrán, we were fairly +comfortable. As usual, no one seemed to +know how long we were to be there, before our +journey by road across the desert began. +Fortunately, we were not guarded very +strictly, and were allowed to go outside the +courtyard, and down to the river to bathe; +the current here was very strong, and only +the most powerful swimmers could make any +headway against it, and that only for a few +yards.</p> + +<p>The town of Samarra was on the other +bank, and some little height above the land +on our side. It stands back from the river, +and contains a fine mosque, with a golden +dome. The inhabitants cross the river in +gufahs—the large round coracles which are +used all down the Tigris. Owing to the +current a start always has to be made very<a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a> +much higher up-stream than the point where +it is desired to land on the other side.</p> + +<p>During the three or four days which we +spent at Samarra, a large quantity of German +gun-ammunition arrived by raft from up-stream, +and was carried by Arabs up the bank +to the trollies. These rafts carry big loads; +they are formed by a skeleton frame of +wood on which is placed brushwood, the +frame being supported by inflated skins +which are tied to it. On reaching the end +of a journey, the skins are deflated and sent +back up the river to be used again. As there +are rapids between Samarra and Bagdad, +it was not possible to float the rafts right +down to Bagdad, and consequently everything +had to be transhipped to the railway. +One night some large motors arrived, and +went on at once by road towards Bagdad. +Reports immediately circulated that Enver +Pasha had arrived; but this cannot have +been true.</p> + +<p>We had now learnt who our commandant +on the journey was to be. He was a yuzbashi +or captain, by name Elmey Bey, a +little man with an enormous moustache, +which made him look very fierce. He knew +a very little French, and could therefore +be approached without an interpreter. We<a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a> +did not really appreciate him until later. +One morning he escorted a few of us over to +the town; there was nothing to be seen except +the mosque, and we were not allowed to look +at this even from the gateway, much less to +enter the courtyard.</p> + + +<a name="elmey_bey"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:578px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/elmey_bey.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="578" height="700"> +<p class="caption">ELMEY BEY<br><i>(From a Water-colour Drawing by Lt. Browne)</i></p></div> + +<p>After making a few purchases, we went +into an Arab café and partook of coffee and +tea flavoured with citron. Elmey Bey would +not let us pay for anything, and we thought +it most hospitable of him. He said he would +accept our hospitality another day. However, +he eventually left the café without +paying anything, and apparently the proprietor +was really our unwilling host.</p> + +<p>The town seemed very deserted, many of +the inhabitants being over on the other side, +selling anything they could to the first batch +of troops, who had reached Samarra that +morning by rail, and were now camped in the +open a little way above us. We were not +allowed to go to see them, but one or two +managed to get messages through, and an +Indian clerk belonging to my regiment came +to see us. He looked thin, and had evidently +had a hard time. He said that on the way +to Bagdad the guards had flogged men who +fell out, to see if they were really ill, and that +conditions as regards rations were pretty<a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a> +bad generally. None of our men, however, +had succumbed so far, and, as many of the +regiment had been anything but fit to start +with, we hoped they would be able to stand +it. We gave him a few little things in the +way of eatables before he went back.</p> + +<p>The next day, we were told we were going +to march; and the question of transport +became all-important. At first the Turks +said there would be two animals—donkeys, +mules, or ponies—to each officer; this seemed +much too good to be true, and when the time +came there was barely one animal to every +officer. These had all been forcibly commandeered +from the villagers round, and a +good many were taken back again on the sly +by their owners before we could get hold of +them. Others were taken by the gendarmes +who formed our guard, while several were +too small to be of use, or were hopelessly lame. +By the time we had got our kit packed, we +had left for riding one reasonably large donkey +and a diminutive beast between the six +officers and seven Indian servants in our +mess.</p> + +<p>We started at sunset in a dust-storm. +Fortunately it did not last long, and we got +along without mishap till about eleven o'clock, +when a heavy rainstorm came on. All through<a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a> +the night, and especially after every halt, +we had been urged on by our Arab escort +shouting "Yallah, yallah!" This really +means "O God!" but is used by the Arabs +for "Get on and hurry up." How we came +to loathe that cry! About two in the morning, +we reached some water; luckily, in the +dark, we could not see what we were drinking. +We must have done fifteen to twenty miles; +and, as most of us had not marched any +distance for months, we were only too glad +to fall asleep for a few hours. At dawn we +were again on the move, having had some +trouble in finding our own animals again; +the wise had marked theirs with copying +pencil, and this method was generally resorted +to afterwards.</p> + +<p>We went on with halts of a few minutes +every hour, and got down to the river again +at midday. It was now pretty hot, and we +were told we should arrive at Tekrit, a small +Arab town, in one hour. Throughout Turkey +and Mesopotamia distances are measured by +hours; a good working plan is to add on +50 per cent. to the average of what one is +told, as no two men will ever say the same; +if journeying by night it is safer to double it.</p> + +<p>That last hour to Tekrit was one of the worst +we had; actually it was nearer two hours.<a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a> +There was a blazing sun, and we were very +tired. The road left the river and went up a +hill, then down and up again. On each rise +we expected to see the town, but it was dreadfully +slow in appearing. From some distance +off we were met by Arab boys and women +selling eggs, raisins, sour curds, and chapatties. +Finally, we were taken through the +place down to the river edge, a sort of dirty, +stony beach, where we were told to camp; +we had covered 30 to 35 miles in the +last nineteen hours, and most of us had +marched almost the whole distance.</p> + +<p>There was a small Arab café which we were +allowed to use, but otherwise there was no +shade. Arabs sauntered about our bivouac, +and were anything but friendly; the place +was filthy, and we were far from feeling +cheerful.</p> + +<p>Some of the houses of the town stand up +on a rocky crag above the river. Tekrit is +a very old place, and at one time there was a +bridge over the river here. It was laid waste +by the Mongols and the people butchered. +Before we left, we were all wishing that +some such fate might be in store for the +present inhabitants.</p> + +<p>Some of us bathed, but the water was very +shallow and dirty. Arabs could be seen<a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a> +swimming across the river supported on inflated +skins, in exactly the same way as +Xenophon has described their forefathers +doing 2,000 years ago.</p> + +<p>That afternoon we tried to arrange to hire +extra animals, as we felt that we could never +get along if the succeeding marches were so +severe. A good many animals were forthcoming, +mostly mules and large donkeys. +The usual terms were to be one pound in +gold, paid in advance, and a second on arrival +at Mosul. The following evening, just before +starting, the owners demanded the whole two +pounds in advance; there was nothing for +it but to comply, the reason undoubtedly +being that the commandant of the town +and Elmey Bey both desired to have their +share before starting, as otherwise they would +not see any of it. A long delay ensued before +we got off, and it was getting dark before we +were clear of the town.</p> + +<p>The march that night was uneventful, and +we halted for a few hours before dawn near +the river, continuing our way as soon as it +got light. We passed a few Arab encampments, +formed of dark tents, where the nomads +come at certain seasons to cultivate the surrounding +land, together with their flocks +of sheep and goats. Not a single house, or<a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a> +even mud-hut, was to be seen. Our next +halt, which we reached in the middle of the +morning, was a serai standing by itself +on a low ridge. It was built on the usual +square pattern, and contained a well, which +however, was not of very much use, as the +water was unfit for drinking; drinking water +had all to be carried from the river, over a +mile away.</p> + +<p>Elmey Bey, or "Phil May," as we christened +him, had by this time shown how anxious +he was to help us, by doing nothing at all +to assist us either in buying provisions or +keeping prices down. Our escort consisted +of a few Arab gendarmes, and, on arrival at +any village or encampment, they would make +the people put up their prices, and insist +on taking the difference as commission themselves; +whenever they could manage it +they prevented all country people from approaching +us until their own demands had +been satisfied.</p> + +<p>Phil May rode the whole way, and would +hurry on and be comfortably asleep in his +camp bed by the time we reached the end of +the march. If worried sufficiently by the +senior officers, he would occasionally go to +the extent of abusing one or more of the +gendarmes, and administer the usual<a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a> +punishment adopted by all officers in the +Turkish army—slapping the face of the culprit. +It says a good deal for the discipline of the +Turkish soldier that a sergeant will stand up +like a lamb and have his face smacked by +the veriest nincompoop of an officer.</p> + +<p>Leaving the serai again the following morning, +we did a short march of some six or +seven miles only, down to the river. This +was to be a very strenuous day, for that +evening we were to start on the long waterless +march about which we had heard so +much. It was said to be 40 miles, that we +should halt during the next day, and not +reach water till the morning after, thus doing +two all-night marches. Most people had +bought goatskins, tied up to hold water, from +the local Arabs. Most of them leaked more or +less <a name="tn_png_68"></a><!--TN: Spaced added before "the"-->rapidly, the new skins being much the worst, +and all gave the water a very strong flavour.</p> + +<p>We got away about 5 p.m., and nothing +special happened till about 11 o'clock, when +suddenly the escort became wildly excited, +and dashed up and down; we were halted +and told there were hostile Arabs about; +the gendarmes fired off a few shots into the +air, but nothing more occurred. All we +could find to account for the disturbance +was that one officer had lost his donkey,<a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a> +which had got loose and gone careering off +to the side of the road. As it was a dark +night, this may very likely have alarmed one +or two of the gendarmes, who did not strike +us as being men of valour.</p> + +<p>Two hours later we halted, and, after a +sketchy supper, soon got to sleep. In the +morning, instead of remaining where we were +for the day, as we had expected, we had to +move on once more to the tune of "Yallah, +yallah." After three hours or so we reached +some low sand-hills, and amongst these found +an unexpected stream, where we proceeded +to camp. This stream, like so many more +in this part of the world, was not pure water, +but contained salts of various descriptions, said +by the Turks to make the water bad for +drinking. We drank steadily from this and +other similar streams; and, luckily, for the +most part, felt no ill effects.</p> + +<p>That evening, we were again upon the road, +our destination being Shilgat, a small Turkish +post on the Tigris, which we were meeting +once more. We arrived eventually about +midnight, after a very wearisome march, +and after a long wait were herded into the +courtyard of the Turkish fort. When the kit +had been sorted out, we were very soon +asleep, the usual precautions being taken<a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a> +to see that boots were hidden under one's +valise, or tied up in some way to prevent theft. +As the Turkish troops were always badly off +for footgear, boots were the articles most +often stolen, and several pairs had disappeared +in this way before we reached our journey's +end. All were thoroughly tired out, and it +had been decided that we would insist on a +rest the following day. Great was our wrath, +therefore, to find ourselves awakened again +at dawn, and told we must move at once to +another place. Phil May came in for more +abuse, and lost his temper promptly. We +settled down, eventually, in another enclosure +not far away, where we had more room. +Later on, we succeeded in our efforts to get +a whole day's rest.</p> + +<p>In ancient times Shilgat was Assur, the +first capital of the Assyrian Empire. Archæologists +had evidently been at work here; +all the foundations of the old city had been laid +bare; it had covered a considerable area, +and had been built largely of marble. Situated +on a high promontory overlooking the +Tigris and the flat plains beyond, the old town +must have been an imposing sight from all +the surrounding country. Now, only the +foundations remain, and no carving or inscriptions +are to be seen.<a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a></p> + +<p>Next day, we were off once more across +flat, uninteresting country, keeping close to +the river. At the start, there was considerable +delay owing to donkeys getting bogged in +a creek which we had to cross. After a +midday halt for a couple of hours, we +continued our weary way, and finally +bivouacked for the night on the bank of +the river.</p> + +<p>The following day's march proved one of +the most unpleasant of the whole journey. +After an early start, we soon reached a Turkish +post, where a long delay occurred while our +orderlies drew rations. At this place there +were small bitumen works, these being the +first signs of any modern industry which we +had seen since leaving Bagdad. A little +farther on, the track rose to higher ground, +and we left the river away on our right. It +began to get hot towards midday, and a warm +wind got up, bringing clouds of dust to meet +us. At length, in the afternoon, we reached +a Turkish post, where after much altercation +we were refused an entrance, and had to retrace +our steps to a somewhat sulphurous +stream a little way back, where we camped +for the night.</p> + +<p>The country all round at this time of year +is covered with long thin grass, and in many<a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a> +places there are quantities of wild flowers, +scarlet poppies being very conspicuous.</p> + +<p>In order to defeat the gendarmes, we had +by now formed a kind of trade union for buying +eggs from villagers. On approaching +each place, it was decided how much should +be paid for eggs, these being more in demand +than any other kind of food. In the Bagdad +district the Persian kron is the usual unit: +a kron is equivalent to fourpence or two +Turkish piastres; farther north the piastre, +or qrush, is used. The cheapest rate we +obtained for eggs was eight for a piastre, or +four a penny, whereas when the gendarmes +had their own way we had to pay a penny for +each.</p> + +<p>Our next march took us to Hamàmali, a +place on the river, and containing an old +bath, as its name implies. There are bitumen +springs entering the river here, but they +are not strong enough to render the water +unfit for drinking. Supplies were very plentiful—eggs, +raisins, bread, and dates being the +most sought after. After a few hours' rest +and a bathe in the river, we started off again +in the evening, looking forward to a real rest +on reaching Mosul the next day. We bivouacked +beside the road, and were moving at +an early hour next morning. The road wound<a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a> +up and down over low hills, and some attempt +had been made to metal the surface and build +good bridges, showing that we were getting +near to an important place. As we reached +the top of one ridge, a full view of the Tigris +valley burst upon us, Mosul lying straight +ahead of us, while farther to the right across +the river lay the ruins of old Nineveh. In the +immediate foreground, the course of the river +was marked by green cultivated land and +low woods, while away, in the distance, rose +the dark mountains of Kurdistan.</p> + +<p>On approaching the town more closely, +one noticed a great difference in the mosques, +as compared with Bagdad. Here the minarets +were of plain stone-work, and were not +capped by gorgeous golden domes or brilliant +blue tile-work.</p> + +<p>We were marched into a large building, +formed on the usual Turkish pattern of a +hollow square. This seemed to be chiefly +used as a prison. We were given three or four +empty rooms on the upper story. Water +was scarce, and had to be brought in by hand. +In other respects, the building had all the filthy +characteristics inseparable from the Turk.</p> + +<p>Soon after arriving, we were given Red +Crescent post-cards to send home, and these +turned out to be the first news our friends<a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a> +in England received from us. For food we +were allowed to go out to restaurants in the +town. One of these, run by a Frenchman, +was a great joy to us, after the scratch meals +which we had been forced to be content +with for so long. We had covered the 175 +miles from Samarra to Mosul in just under +ten days, and had it not been for the extra +animals hired at Tekrit we should scarcely +have managed this. As it was, most people +could ride for an hour and walk for an +hour alternately, though some were not so +fortunate.</p> + +<p>We were promised many things in Mosul, +amongst others that we should be allowed to +go to bathe in the river. This was never +allowed in the end, although we went in parties +to the bazaar, where we laid in stocks of +flour, rice, and raisins, for the journey on +to Ras-el-Ain. We were told that very +few supplies were obtainable on the road +until we reached Nisibin, 120 miles away.</p> + +<p>At Samarra, we had left behind a few +officers who had not sufficiently recovered +from the effects of the siege to proceed at +once on the road journey. At Shilgat, we +picked up one officer left by the first party, +and left one or two of our own servants +behind. All these we hoped would recover<a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a> +enough to come on with the troops or subsequent +parties of officers. At Mosul, we +found one of our doctors left behind by the +first party, and attending to an officer who +was down with enteric.</p> + +<p>After a rest of two days at Mosul, we +started off on June 1 for the 200 miles to the +railhead at Ras-el-Ain. Our transport was +now composed chiefly of carts, and a few extra +carts were hired by paying in advance as +before. There was the usual uncertainty as +to how many marches it would take us, and +how many hours we should be on the road +the first day. We were now going almost +due west, and would not see our old friend +the Tigris again.</p> + +<p>In response to our complaints to the commandant +at Mosul of the way in which our +Arab escort had behaved, these men were +changed for Turkish soldiers, who gave us +less trouble. Our party was accompanied +by three magnificent Arab horses, which were +being taken to Constantinople for Enver +Pasha. The Mosul district has been the +finest horse-breeding country in Asia from the +earliest times; indeed, it would be hard to +imagine a country better suited for the purpose +than the rolling grassy plains stretching +away on both sides of the river.<a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a></p> + +<p>After leaving the Tigris, we did not see a +single tree for a hundred miles, and there was +very little water of any description. The +first night we spent by some dirty pools +after a march of more than twenty miles. +The carts were not as restful as might be +imagined, since they had no springs, and +every few minutes the Jehu would urge his +steeds into a canter to catch up distance lost +on the cart in front, or merely to try to get +ahead of it. The harness was largely composed +of string and rope, which often gave +way, thus occasioning a long rattle for all +on board before the former place in the procession +was regained. Some of the horses +had most appalling sores: they are evidently +worked till they drop, and receive the harshest +treatment from the drivers. The boys driving +our carts were Kurds, wild, quick-tempered, +and reckless.</p> + +<p>The second day brought us to a camp +beside a stream of pure sweet water, a welcome +change after all the dirty pools and salt-laden +springs which we had experienced. +The following day, after a halt near some +dirty springs at noon, we started on another +long waterless trek in the late afternoon. +We went on steadily all night, passing a +large prairie fire. These fires are started to<a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a> +burn up the old long grass and make way +for the fresh growth. They extend for miles, +and at night are a fine sight, with heavy +clouds of smoke hanging above.</p> + +<p>We halted for two hours about two in the +morning, and then got under way once more. +About nine o'clock we came to a good stream +and towards midday reached our camp at +Demir Kapo. Here, there was a small river +which yielded a number of fish. We saw a +few Germans, and a German wireless section +was camped near. We bathed in the stream, +and were very glad to rest for the remainder +of the day and the following morning.</p> + +<p>Two more marches brought us to Nisibin. +The country after leaving Mosul had been +almost uninhabited, but here there were small +villages dotted about. On getting nearer to +them, we found that they were deserted; +our guards told us they were Armenian +villages, and that the people had all been +killed earlier in the war. We passed a great +many of these awful testimonies to the +barbarity of Turkish politics.</p> + +<p>Away on our right, as we approached +Nisibin, could be seen Mardin, a city built +on a rock overlooking the plains, and forming, +as it were, a look-out from the southern fringe +of the Taurus Mountains. As to how far<a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a> +Mardin also was a city of the dead, it was +impossible to tell. Before the war, the main +Armenian population had extended from this +district over a belt of land running north-eastwards +up to Erzerum and Van.</p> + +<p>At Nisibin, we camped near the river, and +had a full day's rest. This place saw as much +fighting as any spot in Mesopotamia in the +old days, having been the frontier station between +Rome and Parthia. There are not +many relics of the past to be seen at the +present day, but close to our bivouac stood +four old pillars, bearing transverse stones +which had formed part of the Roman Forum. +They stood out forlornly in a field on high +ground, and, as might be expected, supported +a stork's nest. These birds often build a +new nest on the top of one or more old ones: +they are very common in Mesopotamia, and +several were seen in Bagdad.</p> + +<p>The following evening saw us moving on +again, and the day after we halted at midday +at Tel Erman. At this point, there is a road +branching away to the north of the route +we had followed and leading up to Diarbekr. +The Turks were moving a good many troops +at this time up to the Caucasus fronts, through +Diarbekr, to meet the Russian pressure. We +found a large camel convoy just beyond the<a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a> +village; since leaving Mosul we had met no +troops or convoys destined for Bagdad or +the Persian front; everything for Mesopotamia +appeared to go down the Euphrates +on rafts, this being the quickest way.</p> + +<p>Tel Erman lived in our memories as being +the first place where we had obtained any +fruit since leaving Bagdad three weeks before. +Some small cherries and apricots were to +be had and were eagerly bought up.</p> + +<p>During the evening's march, we passed +a regiment of Turkish cavalry, who, for +Turks, seemed to be wonderfully well equipped. +The average Turk never looks happy on a +horse, but these fellows made a better show +than usual. As we approached the railhead +at Ras-el-Ain, signs of activity increased, +and there were more dead horses at the +roadside, showing that the traffic was heavier.</p> + +<p>The last day's march was one of the worst; +during the morning stage the sun was hot, +there was no breeze, and quantities of sand-flies +assailed us. Towards midday, we +reached a big Turkish camp, where there +were a good many men and stores in course +of transit eastwards. Here we rested until +late in the afternoon, when our final march +to Ras-el-Ain began. The last few miles +were accomplished at a good pace to a<a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a> +sustained whistling accompaniment, ranging +over most of the popular songs of the last +few years.</p> + +<p>Every one thought that our troubles were +over, as we were now on a railway, and whatever +might happen would not have to walk +any farther. These hopes were dispelled a +few days later, when we heard of the two +breaks in the line across the Taurus Mountains, +which had not yet been completed, +thus necessitating two more trips by road.</p> + +<p>We bivouacked in the open by the station, +and early in the morning were told to get +ready at once to go by the next train. An +hour later, it appeared that we were not +going till the following day. By this time +we had ceased to pay much attention to +Turkish orders, unless we saw that actual +preparations were being made to carry them +out. In the afternoon, the Turks took away +all Hindu orderlies and servants, and informed +us that all the doctors in our party, +except one, were to stay here to look after +the Indian troops on their arrival, as the +latter were going to be put to work on continuing +the railway farther east towards +Nisibin. We were very sorry for our medical +friends, since their prospects looked anything +but cheerful. Local food supplied from the<a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a> +country round seemed almost non-existent, +and the shops in the village had very little.</p> + +<p>By the time we reached Ras-el-Ain, we +had completed 200 miles from Mosul in ten +days. Most of us had walked half the distance, +and bumped in carts over the other half. +We had kept tolerably cheerful, apart from +a few inveterate grousers; altogether we +had survived wonderfully well, and had fared +infinitely better than the troops from Kut, +who were marching along in our tracks a few +days behind us.</p> + +<p>From Ras-el-Ain we started for Aleppo +the next morning, the journey taking nearly +twelve hours. The only interesting place +through which we passed was Jerrablus, +the ancient Carchemish, where the line crosses +the Euphrates by a fine bridge. There was +not much sign of activity on the river banks, +but before we left the station a complete +train loaded with German motor-lorries had +arrived, and after a few minutes continued +its way eastwards.</p> + +<p>On reaching Aleppo, in the evening, the +orderlies and servants were marched off by +themselves, and after loading our kit on to +carts we were driven away in gharries from +the station. This seemed to be almost the +height of luxury, and we thought that at<a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a> +last we had reached a place where we should +be really well treated. The gharries took us +to various small hotels, but when once inside +we were not allowed to go out again. The +Turks said that our kit would be delivered +at once; some people waited up hoping +for the arrival of their valises, but the wiser +seized what bedding there was obtainable +in the hotel, and laying it on a veranda made +the best of a bad job, and went to sleep.</p> + +<p>In the morning, we were not allowed out +to get any food. The hotel sharks refused +to let boys come up with rolls, but tried to +sell to us themselves at double the prices. +However, we eventually got hold of a boy +who threw up rolls from the street below to +our veranda, and thus outwitted our enemies.</p> + +<p>All efforts to get out for breakfast, or to +fetch our kit, proved unavailing, until about +midday we were allowed to go a few yards +down the street to where our kit had all been +thrown inside a gateway the night before. +Fortunately, although a good many valises +had evidently been opened, very little had +been stolen.</p> + +<p>It was not until four o'clock in the afternoon +that we were finally allowed out in +parties to a restaurant not a hundred yards +away. While we were shut in, we had seen<a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a> +Phil May in the road and shouted to him; +but, although he could see very well what +we wanted, he never took the trouble to come +into the hotel, much less to help us.</p> + +<p>The next day passed in much the same +fashion, except that we were allowed out at +midday, and no one was sorry when we were +marched off back to the station early the +following morning. Here we met the orderlies, +who had fared much worse than we had. +The first night they had been packed into a +small room in some filthy barracks, and had +suffered severely from the verminous pests +which flourish in every Turkish building.</p> + +<p>A railway journey of a few hours brought +us to Islahie, which was then the railhead +for the journey over the Anti-Taurus range.</p> + +<p>There were some Austrian troops in Aleppo, +and we now began to meet many more +Germans. Turkish training-camps were much +in evidence at the stations we passed after +leaving Aleppo, and a good deal of material +was going south on the railway. Most of this +was going to Egypt to assist in the attack +which ended so disastrously for the Turks.</p> + +<p>We spent the night at Islahie under some +rough tent shelters. All our clothes had +been fumigated in a steam waggon specially +designed for the purpose.<a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a></p> + +<p>The following morning we noticed a crowd +of men, women, and children moving off +along the road and looking very wretched. +Our guards said that these were Armenians +who had been working on the line, but were +being taken away to make room for our troops, +who would be set to work in their place; +they also added that these Armenians would +be marched off into a waterless spot in the +hills, and kept there till they died.</p> + +<p>We left our camp in the evening, travelling +the first part of the way in carts, over one +of the most bumpy roads ever seen. After +a halt at the foot of the pass, we marched up, +starting at midnight. There was a fine +moon, and the scenery as we climbed higher +became very grand. The road appeared +to be only lately completed, and was probably +due to German energy. As we neared the +summit three or four bodies were seen lying +in the ditch beside the road; these were +evidently some of the Armenians we had seen +starting off that morning. After descending +the farther side, we bivouacked under trees +in a pretty spot, and on the slope opposite +saw the Armenians. Soon after they left +and we did not see anything more of them. +That evening we continued our way downhill, +meeting several batches of sturdy Turkish<a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a> +youths who had just been called up and were +on their way to training-camps near Aleppo. +We were descending rapidly, and our drivers +maintained a headlong gallop, with the result +that two carts were completely overturned, +but fortunately with no ill effects to the +passengers. We finally bivouacked not far +from the railhead, and reached the station +of Mamouré early the following morning.</p> + +<p>The railway journey across the plain, +through Adana, took some six hours, bringing +us to Kulek Boghaz, a station within five +miles of Tarsus. From this point the road +journey over the main Taurus range began. +All supplies were being brought over by +German motor-lorries, and everything was +being run by a German commandant. During +the night several helmets were stolen and +probably found their way to German soldiers, +who either had no sun helmets or very inferior +ones. The commandant did his best to recover +them, but without success. He told +us that we should leave the next morning +at 9 o'clock. Punctually to the minute, +a dozen motor-lorries rolled up, and we were +soon speeding along the road towards the +mountains. The road had been cut up +dreadfully by the heavy traffic, so that we +were jolted about almost as badly as we had<a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a> +been in the Turkish carts. The scenery +grew finer as we ascended, until half-way we +reached an open space amongst the hills, +which the Germans had made the headquarters +of their motor service, and christened +"Camp Taurus." Here were enormous +repair tents, one for each make of car, with +living quarters and offices all of a most complete +and elaborate type. After a halt here, +we continued our way, still rising slowly until +we entered the Cilician Gates, where the road +just finds room to pass through a narrow +rocky gorge. On the farther side, the descent +begins at once, and is very steep in places. +The road here was being repaired by bands +of forced labourers, and had a much better +surface.</p> + +<p>As we neared the railway again, at Bozanti, +we noticed a few British prisoners. These +were naval men taken in the Dardanelles. +They said they were being paid, and apparently +had not much to complain about. We +were not allowed to stop and speak to them, +and can only hope that they fared better +than our own troops who were put to work +shortly afterwards on the neighbouring sections +of the line through the Taurus.</p> + +<p>At Bozanti, we were able to buy a few stores, +some of which were British and had been<a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a> +left behind at Gallipoli when we evacuated +the peninsula. With only a short wait, we +were packed like sardines into a train, and +the next stage of the journey began.</p> + +<p>The next morning we reached Konia, and +were told to leave the train, but not to take +our kit out, as the train was stopping for some +time. The local commandant arrived, and +proved to be the best Turkish officer we had +met. Under his direction, we were taken +to a hospital building, where there were two +large rooms containing rough beds. These +were a great delight after sleeping on the +ground for weeks. The commandant, a little +later, decided that we should be allowed to +remain here until the next day, so that we +might have a rest. If we had relied on Phil +May, our kit would have all gone on in the +afternoon to Constantinople, but luckily we +just managed to rescue it in time.</p> + +<p>The greatest delight of Konia, from our +point of view, was an hotel near the station, +to which we were allowed to go for meals. +This was run by a Frenchwoman, who was +kindness itself, and could not do enough for +us. Few of us will forget the delights of +her omelets or the hot baths in a real long +bath, the first we had seen since leaving +India.<a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a></p> + +<p>The journey next day was more comfortable, +as we had more room. After spending +another night in the train, we arrived in the +morning at Afion Kara Hissar, where a good +number of Gallipoli prisoners were interned. +In the evening, we reached Eski Chehir, the +junction for the Angora line. Here all our +Mohammedan servants were taken from us. +We were conducted a little way into the town +to the houses where a number of Indian +Mohammedan officers, who had come along +with the first party, were living. They seemed +to have fared pretty well, and certainly had +very good quarters. They were very glad to +see us, and we anxiously inquired after their +experiences by the way.</p> + +<p>Up to this point we had fondly imagined +that Angora would be the end of our journey, +but just before starting in the evening we +were told that another ten days by road lay +in front of us after reaching Angora. We +were packed tight in the train, and rumbled +on slowly through the night, arriving at +Angora at eleven o'clock next day. Our kit +was left to be brought in carts, while we +were marched through the town to a big +building over a mile beyond. This had +been built as an Agricultural College, but +latterly used as a Military School. Here we<a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a> +found the first party of officers, whom we +had last seen at Shamrán camp. They seemed +to have had a much more unpleasant journey +than we had; whether it was because they +had most of the staff officers amongst them, +or had adopted the plan of telling every Turk +and interpreter exactly what they thought +of them, certain it is that they were not enjoying +life, and when we arrived had not +been allowed outside the building for two +whole days.</p> + +<p>We had bidden farewell to Phil May with +great delight at Eski Chehir, and had since +then been in charge of a much pleasanter +officer. Thanks to his efforts, we succeeded +in getting permission to stay out of doors to +cook and to go down to a neighbouring +stream to bathe in the evening. We felt that +the first party really owed us a great debt of +gratitude in thus providing them with an +opportunity of washing and getting a little +fresh air.</p> + +<p>All our orderlies had been marched off +from the station to some dirty Turkish +barracks, so that we were entirely dependent +on our own culinary efforts. Two days after +our arrival, the first party left in carts for +Yozgad, a distance of 100 miles due +east on the road to Sivas and Erzerum. We<a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a> +remained for a week, being only allowed +to go into the town once to make purchases. +The journey to Kastamuni began under the +best conditions. The weather was perfect, +and as we were well over 2,000 feet above +sea-level the sun was never too hot at midday. +Also, we had a new commandant, +who did what he could to help us. The +distance in front of us was 140 miles, and we +expected to take fully a week.</p> + +<p>The road led through countless orchards +for the first few miles, and then on into more +open country. Cherries and small apricots +abounded, and supplies in general were +plentiful; a very different state of affairs +existed a year later, when prices had doubled +and trebled, and in many cases advanced +very much more. We reached a small village +the first evening, and our commandant appeared +much surprised that we should prefer +to sleep in the open rather than in the very +doubtful shelters attached to the local rest-house.</p> + +<p>The following day we reached Kalejik, +a picturesque little place with the ruins of +an old castle perched on a rocky pinnacle in +the centre of the town. Some such ruin +seems to keep watch over all Turkish towns. +We had already seen similar old forts<a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a> +perched on hills at Afion Kara Hissar and +Angora.</p> + +<p>Next morning, most of our carts were taken +away, and we were given donkeys instead. +A small moke cannot keep pace with a cart, +and it is an open question whether riding +the animal with a loading saddle is less fatiguing +than walking along and driving it in front +of one. Provided all one's kit had been put +on a cart, the easiest way was often to let +the moke go where it liked, and walk on +oneself without it.</p> + +<p>Two days from Kalejik brought us to +Changri, a prettily situated little place, which +came suddenly into view, as we rounded a +bend in the road, after traversing a very +desolate and uninteresting stretch of country +all day. We bivouacked under some trees +by a stream, which, however, was not fit +to drink from. The local commandant and +Town Council paid us a visit. We were +allowed to visit the bazaar, and generally +made ourselves comfortable.</p> + +<p>In the morning, we were given more carts +again, much to our delight, and continued +our way northward. The road now began +to cross some high ridges. On one of these +we passed a police post, and a halt was made +while our commandant stalked a few sitting<a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a> +pigeons with his shot-gun, eventually securing +one after a great deal of trouble. Beyond +sand-grouse, between Bagdad and Mosul, +we had seen very little game of any sort since +we left Kut.</p> + +<p>We camped by a stream, after a very steep +and bumpy descent from a high ridge. It +is extraordinary what treatment the light +Turkish transport carts can stand without +anything giving way.</p> + +<p>Our next march led us up a very long +ascent, and proved the most enjoyable day +of our whole journey. After ascending some +distance, the road entered pine woods, and +reminded us very strongly of roads near +different hill stations in India. We halted +at midday very near the top of the pass, which +must be close on 4,000 feet, while the mountains +on either side rise to another 2,000 feet. +The views were glorious, and we wished it +might have been possible to stay longer in +such scenery. By evening, we had dropped +down a long distance on the other side and +were nearly out of the woods again when we +halted for our last bivouac.</p> + +<p>We were now within ten miles of Kastamuni, +and by eleven o'clock next morning, +July 5th, were in sight of the place. The old +castle, standing on its rocky crest, was the<a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a> +first sight which greeted us as we looked down +into the valley from the top of the ridge along +which we had come. The town, spreading +up and down the valley round the base of +the castle rock, seemed very much larger than +any Turkish town we had seen since leaving +Aleppo. The valley was green with cultivated +fields and trees, while the hillsides were +bare and brown.</p> + +<p>We were halted just outside the town, while +a number of local gendarmes formed up on +each side of the road. After a long wait, +we thus progressed in state into the town +and through the bazaar to our quarters, which +proved to be houses from which the former +Greek inhabitants had been ejected. In the +end, although somewhat crowded, we found +ourselves each with a bed, bedding, and a +little other furniture. Most of us had not +slept in a bed for eight months or more, apart +perhaps from a few days in hospital, and all +we desired at the moment was one long rest.</p> + +<p>During the last week, which had been by +far the pleasantest of the whole trek, we had +averaged twenty miles a day. Our journey +altogether had been nearly 1,700 miles, and +was probably the longest distance across +country any prisoners of war have had to +travel to the place of their confinement.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">LIFE IN KASTAMUNI</p> + +<p class="subchapterhd"><i>July</i> 1916—<i>August 1917</i></p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>O</span></span><span class="firstwords">n</span> +arrival in Kastamuni, we were +divided into two groups, one being +accommodated in a large building, +formerly a Greek school, with one or two +adjacent houses, and the other in a number +of houses in a street lower down the hill. +Both places were on the edge of the town in +the Greek quarter. The schoolhouse was +perched high up and commanded a splendid +view across the town in the valley towards +the hills, beyond which lay the Black Sea—only +some 40 miles away.</p> + +<p>The houses were built up on a wooden +frame-work, the bricks being thrown in to +fill up the intervening spaces in a most casual +manner. The best houses were covered with +stucco; but, however good in appearance, +each house in Turkey has its own numerous +population of small inhabitants. An Austrian<a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a> +lady whom we met assured us that her house +was the only one in the town free from these +pests, and we could well believe it.</p> + +<p>The town itself is shut in by the valley and +presents a confused jumble of houses, with +almost innumerable mosques, and in the +centre one or two large Government buildings. +The mosques are not particularly beautiful, +there being no golden domes or blue tilework. +The most pretentious have plain grey stone +minarets, while the smaller ones have to be +content with little steeples of wood. During +Ramazan a ring of lights is kept burning at +night round each minaret, and gives the town +a strange appearance, as these are the only +lights showing, there being no such thing +as street lamps, and very few lights in +private houses—with kerosine at a prohibitive +price.</p> + +<p>After the weary march from Kut, we were +only too delighted to get into our new quarters, +and sleeping in a bed again was a luxury +not soon to be forgotten. A restaurant +had been arranged, and we found a very +good meal ready for us soon after arrival. +Unfortunately, this was much the best +repast we obtained from the contractor, +and when it came to arranging a daily +messing scheme we had to be content with<a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a> +a very moderate programme. However, every +one had got so tired of scraping along, cooking +and foraging for themselves on the journey up, +that any sort of plan by which some one else +would do the work was not to be refused, even +if we were to be done over it.</p> + +<p>During the summer of 1916, food in the +town was comparatively cheap, eggs being +a halfpenny each or less, and good white +flour about sixpence a pound. Fruit was to +be had in prolific quantities, the cherries +being especially good. But no one takes +any trouble to cultivate fruit in this part of +Turkey. There are grapes, melons, peaches, +apples and pears in great profusion, but all +of the commonest kind. Had the country +any communications worth the name, no doubt +it would be different, but, as it is, the Turk +is content with what grows by itself and does +not need any special attention. The local +taste in over-ripe and bad pears was most +surprising. For weeks one would see baskets +of rotting pears in the bazaar on market +days and the country people enjoying them.</p> + +<p>The ruined castle on its rocky pinnacle +must have dated back to very early times; +it is now used as a "look-out" station and +has three ancient guns, which are fired as +an alarm in case of fire and at other moments<a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a> +of importance, such as the first sight of the +new moon at the end of Ramazan. The +greatest wonder to us was that the whole +town had not been burnt down long ago, +since all the bazaar houses were wooden and +dry as tinder. The fire brigade consisted of +one prehistoric manual pump which was +carried about on the shoulders of five or six +youths, with a scratch collection of hose and +buckets. On one occasion a major of the +S. & T. Corps was so overcome with laughter +on seeing this apparition that the commandant, +feeling much insulted, had him confined to +the house for a fortnight.</p> + +<p>This was our first commandant, a very +ignorant specimen, who, so report said, had +been a farmer in the Caucasus. He was a +most depressing sight at all times. Most +Turkish officers only shave on Thursdays, +and he was no exception to the rule. His +trousers invariably swept the ground; he +always wore goloshes several sizes too large +and an old overcoat. He would shuffle +about with his hands in his pockets, his +shoulders hunched up, looking the picture +of misery. Yet, notwithstanding his apparent +dejection, he was making quite a good thing +out of us, as we found out later on. The +restaurant contractor was paying him about<a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a> +£30 a month, and, between them, they were +charging us rent for our quarters, which was +quite contrary to all rules. Another little +source of income was making us each pay +for a 5-piastre receipt stamp for our +monthly pay instead of a 2½d.</p> + +<p>This commandant knew no language except +Turkish, and consequently an interpreter +was needed on all occasions. At the start +this was a Greek, who made great protestations +of his friendliness to us; but we very +soon found him to be a double-faced blackguard +doing his best to make a good thing +out of us by arranging for commissions with +the shopkeepers with whom we dealt.</p> + +<p>Fortunately for us, early in 1917, a Turkish +colonel—Zeur Bey, from Constantinople—arrived +unexpectedly on a visit of inspection, +with the result that the commandant was +promptly dismissed and matters regarding +overcharges for house rent put right. The +commandant was said to have been seen on +his knees before the colonel imploring forgiveness. +This at all events was the story +of Sherif Bey, the second in command, who was +by way of being very anxious to do all he +could for us. On our march from Angora to +Kastamuni he had certainly done his best for +us, but later on we were forced to distrust him.<a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a></p> + +<p>Turkish officers, as a rule, have very good +manners and promise one almost anything +without the least idea of ever keeping their +word. They speak French with a very good +accent, which makes one give them credit +for knowing a great deal more of that language +than is usually the case. It is quite +impossible to describe the uniforms worn by +officers, as one so seldom sees two dressed +alike. All material being so scarce and expensive, +uniforms were made from almost +anything, and there being no such person as a +provost-marshal no one could interfere. Consequently, +one saw some officers dressed in a +highly picturesque style, looking as if they +had just been taking a part in "The Chocolate +Soldier" or "The Balkan Princess," +and others whom one could only recognize +from shopkeepers by their badges of rank.</p> + +<p>The Greek interpreter was the first one of +the original staff to depart. After him, two +very much better fellows were sent us. One +of these was a young Turk named Remzi, +who had been a naval cadet in Constantinople +when the war broke out—and still cherished +the fond hope of one day being an officer in +the British Navy, for which he had the most +profound veneration. Unfortunately, in trying +to help us, he wrote to Constantinople;<a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a> +got into trouble with his seniors, and was sent +away. We were thus left with the second +man, an Armenian, who was always called +"Napoleon" from his likeness to the Great +Man. Napoleon was very cautious, but, +considering the difficulty of his own position, +he did us very well.</p> + +<p>After our first commandant had disappeared, +his successor arrived in the shape of +a very small, but very stout and cheery little +man, named Fattah Bey. He proved to be +a very good fellow and things were soon +running much more pleasantly. A great +point in his favour was that he spoke German, +and we were thus able to dispense with an +interpreter. Capt. H., of the I.A.R.O., took +charge of him on most occasions, and after +we had had him a few weeks he was becoming +quite pro-British.</p> + +<p>The greatest events in our life were undoubtedly +the arrival of a mail or parcels. +The letters we received in July 1916, soon +after our arrival, were the first news most of +us had had from our friends at home since +before the siege began in Kut nearly eight +months earlier. On an average, letters came +through every ten days or so, the quickest +time taken from home, via Switzerland, +Vienna and Constantinople, being 25 days.<a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a> +Parcels travelled by the same route, but +were very much longer in making their +appearance. At first they arrived in three to +four months, but gradually took longer and +longer, until finally they were eight and nine +months on the way. The reason for this +delay was to be found in Vienna, where all +parcels were transhipped, and apparently +thrown into a depot until such time as the +Austrian officials decided to send a few more +on. Any big operations on the Italian front +had the immediate effect of stopping all +parcels and sometimes letters as well. There +were exceedingly few cases of anything having +been actually stolen and, up to a certain date, +officers had received nearly all parcels sent +from home.</p> + +<p>Soon after our arrival, we received a number +of gifts through the American Embassy in +Constantinople, who were at that time looking +after our interests. These consisted of thin +cotton things for the summer, and, when +wearable, were of considerable use. Unfortunately, +they were much too small, and +it was a very lucky man who could wear the +trousers he was given. Later on, more +clothes arrived, these being thick winter +garments which, although not providing the +same amount of amusement, fitted us better<a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a> +and were a great godsend, since it was not +until the New Year that people began to +receive the clothes they wanted from home.</p> + +<p>The winter in Kastamuni and, in fact, +over most of Asia Minor can be very severe; +but it is a dry and healthy cold. In February +1917, we had well over 20 degrees of +frost for days, and during the following +winter the temperature at Changri went down +to 6 degrees below zero. Indeed, it would +have been hard to find a better climate than +Kastamuni, which was 2,500 feet above the +sea. The rainfall there was very small and +confined almost entirely to March and April. +The summer temperature was very much +the same as in England, but drier.</p> + +<p>As one gets nearer to the Black Sea coast, +the rainfall increases and the vegetation gets +thicker. Between Angora and Changri there +are wide stretches of almost desert land. +At Kastamuni we had pine woods and shrubs +on the hills, while all the valleys were extensively +irrigated. On the Black Sea coast +itself the climate is much milder in winter and +there are thick woods of beech, oak and fir +with heavy undergrowth.</p> + +<p>Apart from the kitchen, which always has +a huge open chimney, there were no fireplaces +of the ordinary kind in the houses. All heating<a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a> +in winter is done by stoves of sheet iron with +a chimney leading out through the nearest +wall. These stoves, fed with wood, give out +a tremendous heat for a short time, but it is +very hard to maintain anything approaching +an even temperature. Wood was plentiful +during the winter of 1916-17, and we used +to buy it in the form of whole logs. These +we had sawn up by two Armenians into short +lengths, which we then split with an axe. +This gave us a good deal of exercise during +the cold winter mornings. Unfortunately, +the next year, wood had become scarce and +much more expensive and all prisoners +suffered considerably in consequence. A +good deal of charcoal is used for cooking, +but we saw no coal being used in the district, +even the railway up to Angora being largely +dependent on wood.</p> + +<p>After a few months at the restaurant, the +contractor began to put up prices and most +of us demurred. This finally led to the +majority going on strike and deciding to mess +themselves, as we were allowed to by the +rules. The old commandant, however, and +the contractor, had no idea of accepting the +alternative if they could possibly help it. +Consequently, we were first forbidden to +cook in the kitchens of our own houses, for<a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a> +fear we should set the chimneys and the +houses on fire. To get over this, we made +fireplaces in the back gardens or yards behind +the houses. Other little pin-pricks of the +same kind were tried, but we finally got our +own way, and found that our mess bills were +reduced to nearly a half what they had been +before. We had a number of British orderlies +with us, who did our cooking and waited on us. +To start with, there was some difficulty in +getting a separate room as a dining-room for +each mess, but eventually we settled down +and furnished on an economical plan, our +carpenters making benches, tables, etc.</p> + +<p>The restaurant contractor was so disgusted +at our strike that he closed down altogether +for two or three days, thus throwing +out into the cold the few who had remained +faithful to him on any conditions rather than +do their own catering. There was, somewhat +naturally, a good deal of ill-feeling +between the two parties in consequence, +and it took time to die out. In the end, +the restaurant supporters had to start a mess +of their own and came into line with the rest +of us.</p> + +<p>We were allowed a fair amount of liberty, +although at the start things did not look +promising, the old commandant telling us<a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a> +we should be only able to go one short walk +a week. Actually we were allowed in the road +for a hundred yards or so outside our houses +and could go to the bazaar or Turkish bath +any day by getting a sentry to go with us.</p> + +<p>The Hamáms, or Turkish baths, of which +there are a great many, are not the elaborately +furnished places one sees at home, +but consist of two vaulted chambers, supplied +with vapour. Round the side are ledges +on which one sits, and stone basins with a +supply of hot and cold water. After being +stewed in the hottest chamber for a quarter +of an hour, one passes out to the outer room, +where an aged attendant is generally ready +to operate with buckets of cold water. Next +one proceeds to the dressing-rooms and reclines +comfortably swathed in towels, while +Turkish coffee is brought round. After the +first few months, sugar became so expensive +that it was no longer provided, and the coffee +seemed very poor in consequence. Altogether, +in a place where one had plenty of +time to spare, the Hamám provided a very +pleasant way of spending a morning.</p> + +<p>The Turks used to put up numbers of rules +for our benefit. These were written out in +the best English the interpreter could achieve, +which was never very clear. As a rule, we<a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a> +did not pay very much attention to them, +and they, on the other hand, never seemed +to care either. The rule was on the board, +and, if any officious officer was to come +round from Constantinople, he could always +be shown it, and assured it was strictly obeyed.</p> + +<p>On one occasion a notice was suddenly put +up, informing us that all lights henceforth +must be put out at 9.30 p.m. It was thought +advisable to do so the first night; the second +night, the time was about 9.45; and after +that we continued to go to bed when we +pleased, and were never bothered any more +about it.</p> + +<p>Owing to the tremendously high price of +kerosine, Daylight Saving soon came into +force, and saved us a great deal.</p> + +<p>The sentries, on the whole, were a very +good-natured lot and would never have +worried us with restrictions as far as they +themselves were concerned. They were mostly +old men who had served in previous wars and, +until called up, were living on their own small +farms. One of the best of them was "Johnnie +Walker," a little man who had a most extraordinary +stride and could walk any of us +to a standstill. We always tried to get him +when going for a long walk, knowing that from +personal motives he would never stop us going<a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a> +a good distance. Another favourite was +"Ginger," a very harmless old fellow with +sandy whiskers. As one went past, he would +lean over and whisper confidentially: "Ginger +fennah?"—Is Ginger a bad fellow? +Every now and then they went to their homes +on leave and came back with a few pounds +of butter or a bag of wheatmeal, which they +sold to us without much difficulty.</p> + +<p>On our arrival, the only weapons the guard +possessed were ancient pinfire rifles, firing +a huge lump of lead. Each man had exactly +two rounds in his possession. Later on some +rather younger men came, armed with captured +Russian rifles.</p> + +<p>We soon managed to hire a field for football. +It was very stony and by no means level, +but, nevertheless, was a great acquisition. +As a rule, each group of houses used it three +days a week. To start with, we only had a +Soccer case and no bladder. We stuffed +the case with grass and played a very modified +form of Rugger, where collaring was disallowed +on account of the stones, and punting and +place kicking forbidden in order to preserve +the life of the ball. After some weeks we +got some proper footballs from Constantinople, +and others came eventually from home. +We played matches against the other group<a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a> +of houses, Regulars <i>v.</i> Irregulars, and every +other thing we could think of. Soccer Sixes +caused much excitement and a local firm of +bookmakers, who came into existence for the +occasion, did a large business.</p> + +<p>We could always rely on getting out +somewhere every day. During the early +summer we had splendid walks two days +a week over the hills in the mornings. These +long walks did not suit everybody, and a +gentle form of meandering had to be organized +for the "slugs." On one celebrated +occasion, we walked out about five miles, +taking our lunch, and had a very cheery +picnic, but this was never allowed again, +and in July 1917 all long walks were suddenly +stopped, and we were barely allowed +outside the boundaries of the town.</p> + +<p>For news of the outer world, we were +dependent upon the local telegrams, which +the best Turkish scholars used to translate, +and also upon the "Hilal," a German-run +paper, printed in Constantinople. This paper, +of which we used to receive the French Edition, +had been started for propaganda purposes +at the beginning of the war. The news +was, naturally, very one-sided, but, reading +between the lines, one could tell fairly well +what was the position on the Western Front.<a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a> +In addition, we had maps, and could follow +the places mentioned, when, as during the +Somme offensive, the Germans, "according +to our preconceived plan," took up a position +some miles in rear of their last. A serial +story which ran for some time in this paper +was called "L'évadé de Tsingtau," and gave +the adventures of a German, who having +escaped from Tsingtau after the Japanese +had taken it, reached America, was caught +while trying to cross to Germany, spent some +time in Donnington Hall, but finally succeeded +in escaping, and swam off from near +Tilbury to a Dutch ship lying in the river, +thus getting clear away. Whether true or not, +it made a wonderful story.</p> + +<p>News carefully camouflaged in our letters +from home invariably arrived safely; in fact, +the Turks never troubled to censor anything +in the letters we received. On the other +hand, every now and then some officious +creature in Constantinople would systematically +cut up our long letters, which we were +allowed to write twice a month, and only send +on the first two and last two lines.</p> + +<p>There were always plenty of rumours +amongst the Greek shopkeepers in the bazaar. +For instance, we were told the British had +taken Bagdad long before they did, and our<a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a> +troops in Palestine were always said to be +within three or four marches of Aleppo; the +Russians were just outside Sivas, and Trieste +had been taken by the Italians. The Turks +themselves never believed these stories, and, +in fact, even when the armistice was signed, +many of them in country districts had not +heard that Bagdad was in our possession. They +received no letters from their friends at the +front, no casualty lists were published, and the +only news that seemed to reach them by post +was a few letters from Turks we had taken to +Burma as prisoners, who seemed to be very +happy and contented.</p> + +<p>The country people never showed any +"hate" against us, but the authorities used +to make this an excuse for curtailing our +walks, saying how fanatical the village people +were in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>Apart from football matches, we employed +ourselves in various ways. There were soon +two or three well-established firms of carpenters, +who did a great deal of work and made +a lot of furniture. Others took to cobbling, +and had plenty to do to keep our boots in +order. A good many studied various languages, +but Turkish was not very popular, as +no one expected ever to want it again when +once they had left the country.<a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a></p> + +<p>We had quite a good library, and books +came through without much trouble in parcels +from home.</p> + +<p>A long series of lectures were held during +the winter, every one who could do so lecturing +to the rest of us. It is wonderful what a +comprehensive programme can be formed +when one is really put to it.</p> + +<p>Another intellectual effort was a debating +society; but this did not have a very long life.</p> + +<p>Our greatest achievement was undoubtedly +the band. This was started in the spring of +1917, under the auspices of our new commandant, +who was very keen about it. At +first there were only two or three violins +which had been discovered in the bazaar, +then others were found, also some clarionets; +drums and banjos were soon made, and, +finally—greatest triumph of all—two 'cellos +and a double bass were manufactured by our +most progressive firm of carpenters. Altogether, +the band numbered about sixteen. At +the start they had no music, and Lieut. Parsons, +R.F.A., who conducted, had to score the parts +for a number of pieces, most of which were +wonderfully successful. Later on, music came +from home, and concerts were given twice +a week.</p> + +<p>We even had a little dancing on one or two<a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a> +occasions, and one day the commandant +brought two or three Greek and Armenian +ladies. This was such a success that he +became very excited and declared "Next +veek plenty lady kom." Life seemed to be +improving all round, but it was too good to +last, and suddenly everything was stopped. +The commandant got into hot water with the +other Turkish authorities in the town, who +had probably reported him behind his back +to Constantinople. Our walks were suddenly +curtailed and no long walks allowed. Had +the little man been able to stand up for himself, +things would have been much better, +but he was much too scared to take a strong +line, and a few days later departed for +Eski-Chehir to take the place of the commandant +there, who, in turn, was to come to +Kastamuni.</p> + +<p>During the winter of 1916, prices began to +rise rapidly in the bazaar and this went on +all through 1917, until in 1918 all prisoners +had great difficulty in getting food, even in +the new camps, which were said to be better +off in this respect than Kastamuni.</p> + +<p>When we first arrived, there was a small +amount of silver money in circulation, the +smallest notes which were just being introduced +being 20 and 5 piastres—3s. 4d. and<a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a> +10d. in ordinary times. Not long afterwards, +these were followed by 2½ and +1 piastre notes, which carried pictures of +the Dardanelles and Kut on the back, +Kut being quite unrecognizable. For smaller +change recourse had to be taken to stamps +and by midsummer of 1917 no coins of any +sort were to be seen.</p> + +<p>Money came through to us in various ways, +but the best exchange we could get was by +cashing undated cheques with the Greek +shopkeepers in the town, who gave us 160 +piastres to the pound, whereas through the +Dutch Embassy we could only get 140, the +exchange rate before the war being 112. +The shopkeepers would not be able to cash +these cheques till the end of the war, and it +says something for the reputation of a British +cheque that they would accept them on such +conditions. They undoubtedly regarded such +cheques as being a very much safer asset than +the Turkish paper money, which was the only +alternative, and, at the end of the war, would +very likely be suddenly repudiated by a +paternal Government.</p> + +<p>We were paid by the Turks at the rate they +pay their own officers, the equivalent of this +being deducted from our accounts by the +War Office.<a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a></p> + +<p>On the way up from Kut we were given one +month's pay in Bagdad, which for senior +officers was on a comparatively generous +scale. However, on reaching Kastamuni, +these unfortunates were told that the Bagdad +rates were quite wrong, and they were +now to pay up the difference; this took +several months in many cases.</p> + +<p>Happily for us, soon after our arrival, the +Red Cross came to our assistance, working +through the American Embassy in Constantinople. +They gave us £T.3 a month, +which, with a subaltern's allowance of £T.7 +as pay from the Turks, made it just possible +to carry on.</p> + +<p>As food got more expensive, the Red Cross +increased their allowance to £T.5 a month, +and had finally to increase this still further.</p> + +<p>In May and June 1917, some additional +orderlies arrived; these men had been in +other camps up till then, and were not all +Kut prisoners, some having been taken in the +Dardanelles and others in Egypt. They +brought dreadful stories of the treatment +of the troops during the first few months, and +it became clear that at least two-thirds of +the Kut garrison were already dead. The +last news they had heard was that all fit +prisoners were being sent back to the North<a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a> +of Syria to work on the railway there. As +conditions were very bad in that district +when we came through in 1916, no one can +say what those who returned a year later +had to go through. This area was considered +as one under military operations, and was, +therefore, excluded from the agreement finally +come to by which the Dutch Embassy in +Constantinople was to inspect the various +camps.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, some of these new orderlies +contracted typhus on their way to Kastamuni, +at one of the dirty halting-places, +and three succumbed. They were buried +beside three officers whom we had already +laid to rest, in a little cemetery at the top of +the hill overlooking the town, near the slope +where the Greeks and Armenians are buried. +Wooden crosses were at first put up over the +graves, but these were at once torn up and +stolen by the Turkish peasants. We then +obtained heavy slabs of stone, on which a +cross was carved and the names cut. A wall +was built round the little spot, a number of +officers going up every morning and working +hard until it was completed. Now that no +British prisoners are left in Kastamuni, one +hopes that the little cemetery will be allowed +to remain undisturbed on the bare hillside.<a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a></p> + +<p>During the summer of 1917, a number of +officers were in favour of getting the Turks +to move the camp from Kastamuni to some +place nearer to the railway, as it was thought +that it would then be easier to obtain supplies +of wood and fuel during the coming winter. +It is doubtful if this would have been the case, +but an official request was sent to Constantinople. +Towards the end of July 1917, our +liberties were considerably curtailed for no +apparent reason, and after the escape of our +party, on August 8th, very severe restrictions +were imposed.</p> + +<p>Nowhere in Turkey could life in 1917-18 +be considered amenable, since food was so short +in all districts. This, combined with the +depreciation in the paper money, kept prices +very high and made messing a great problem; +if parcels could have got through more quickly +from home it would have made a big difference.</p> + +<p>At the end of September, the first batch +of officers was moved to Changri, and the +remainder followed early in October. At +Changri accommodation was provided in a +dirty Turkish barrack, which, besides needing +very extensive cleansing, required much glass +in the windows. Shortly afterwards, two-thirds +of the officers left for Gedos, a small +place about a hundred miles east of Smyrna,<a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a> +where they were placed on parole, and given +liberty to go where they pleased unguarded. +The remainder stayed for some months at +Changri, where they had managed to make +themselves fairly comfortable, although only +allowed to go out to a neighbouring field +for exercise. Later, however, they were sent +to Yozgad, the camp to which the first half +of the Kut officers had originally been sent.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">ESCAPE FROM KASTAMUNI</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>R</span></span><span class="firstwords">eturning</span> +to events in Kastamuni, +in November 1916 a little more housing +accommodation had become available +for us, and as a result I found myself +sharing a good room with Keeling, a lieutenant +in the I.A.R.O. One evening, soon afterwards, +I asked him if he would make an effort +with me to reach the Russians if, as we hoped, +they should advance further west from their +lines, which were then running due south to +Erzinjan from a point a little way west of +Trebizond. He replied that he had long been +thinking of it, and had made a start towards +preparing for such an effort by carefully +preserving two 1 lb. tins of chocolate which he +had received from home!</p> + +<p>At that time such a journey meant a distance +of 300 miles across country from Kastamuni, +and we considered it quite hopeless in +view of the mountainous country to be passed. +It was also obvious that any attempt to get<a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a> +a long distance across country would stand a +much better chance if made in the summer +time. It would be impossible to carry enough +food and we should have to fall back on +such crops, fruit and vegetables as might +be ripe and obtainable. We thought April or +May would be the earliest possible month. +Another alternative was to get to the coast, +only 38 miles as the crow flies, and then to +steal a boat. This necessitated having one +man in the party who knew how to sail a +boat, and added a big risk in the very fact +of having to launch a boat secretly and get +away from a coast which as far as we could +hear was well guarded.</p> + +<p>The general opinion was that it was quite +hopeless to try to get away. This belief was +shared by the senior officers and, under pressure +from the Turkish commandant, most +people gave their parole not to try to escape +under present conditions. About ten of us +refused: some because they believed such an +act was definitely against Army rules, and the +others, like ourselves, because they hoped for +a chance to get away and considered that they +were justified in taking such a chance if it +seemed to offer any possibility of success. +Pressure was brought to bear upon us by the +Turks to change our views; but we remained<a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a> +firm. We were told our liberty would be curtailed; +we would be put in a separate house +by ourselves; while the others were to get additional +liberty. What actually happened was +exactly nothing, and we all went on precisely +as before. It appeared to be merely a dodge +on the part of the Turks to save themselves +trouble and responsibility. From time to +time, owing to various good reasons, many +others withdrew their parole, and by the +date we departed—August 8th, 1917—nearly +half the officers must have followed suit.</p> + +<p>In the meanwhile K. and I had been +trying to collect information and had been +sounding a few other officers. It was very +hard to get anything which was at all trustworthy: +some reports said there were no boats +on the coast, others that a boat could probably +be obtained. One Greek told us that it +would be impossible to get through to the +Russian lines, as the people east of Samsun +were so wild and savage. This man was +making plenty of money out of us in his +professional capacity, and evidently did not +wish any disturbances between us and the +Turks to imperil his tranquillity and source of +gain. We were not therefore much influenced +by his fears.</p> + +<p>Maps were a necessity, and the only one we<a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a> +had was on a scale of 32 miles to an +inch. I made tracings of this, so as to have +duplicate copies, but the scale was too small +to be of much use beyond showing the general +trend of the country. I also succeeded in +making a compass of a rough description by +fixing a dial to some magnetic needles and +suspending it with a thread. Fortunately, +however, a little later, we discovered a shop +in the town where we could buy some cheap +but tolerably serviceable compasses, and +secured several of these, taking care that the +sentry with us did not see what we were +buying. The best map we had seen was +hanging up in our commandant's office. +This was a German one and to a scale of about +seven miles to an inch. No opportunity +occurred, unfortunately, of being able to +copy it. It showed us, however, a large +number of farms and villages sprinkled over +the countryside. The Russians had advanced +no further, and the only plan at all feasible +seemed to be to get a boat on the coast and +make for Trebizond.</p> + +<p>As the summer began our discussions took +a more practical shape, and we got in touch +with people who were in a position to know +something trustworthy. One of those we +approached was an interned Ally. Under<a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a> +various pretexts I succeeded in getting a sentry +to come with me to his house, which was strictly +against the rules, saying I wanted to buy a +guitar. On arrival he produced the guitar, +and while pretending to try it we discussed +the possibility of getting away. He considered +that it would be possible to get a boat +on the coast at Ineboli and suggested sending +someone he could trust to find out how things +stood and if possible to make arrangements. +Conversation was not too easy, as his knowledge +of English was very sketchy and I knew +nothing of his language; also the sentry was +present, so that everything had to appear +to be about the guitar and no names of places +mentioned aloud. A little money and cigarettes +to the sentry ensured his not talking +later about where we had been, and I endeavoured +to get the same man on the next occasion. +One day at this house I met a fellow +countryman who as a civilian had been interned +at Constantinople. For some reason +the Turks had become more suspicious and +he had been packed off to Kastamuni. He +gave me some useful information about the +state of the country further east, but was not +at all hopeful of our getting through. I did +not see him again, as he was naturally very +loth to be seen speaking to any of us, as that<a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a> +would mean his being sent out to live in one +of the small villages away from every vestige +of civilization. Meanwhile K. had been interviewing +one or two people whom we thought +might be trusted. For this purpose an +appointment was generally made at the +Hamám, or Turkish bath. We were allowed +to go to these baths, of which there were a +large number in the town, whenever we liked, +and, as the sentry always stayed in the +entrance hall, one could speak freely to anyone +inside. On the whole these Allies recommended +us not to make any attempt, one +saying that had it been possible he himself +would of course have gone long ago. Actually, +they were afraid of trying anything of +the sort or being in any way implicated by us.</p> + +<p>We discussed the proposal of my friend +with some of the others and decided to try +his suggestion. Accordingly ten of us collected +about 50 liras—one lira equals 18s. 6d. +nominally—which was handed to him. He +in turn was to arrange with a Greek who was +going to the coast and promised to bring +back the information we needed. After some +delay he finally departed, and, as we had +feared, never turned up again.</p> + +<p>Some of those who had subscribed considered +any attempt without previously obtaining a<a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a> +boat to be hopeless and, when the Greek never +returned, the number who were keen to go was +reduced to half a dozen. Much discussion +followed as to the size of the party, whether +there should be two parties and who should go +in which, and what routes should be followed. +Eventually only four of us prepared to start, +the others promising to give us all the support +they could. Our party now consisted of +Captains R. J. Tipton, R.F.C., R. T. Sweet, +2/7th Ghurkas, Lieut. E. H. Keeling, and +myself, both of the I.A.R.O. "Tip" had +been taken in Egypt, while we three had +all been in Kut.</p> + +<p>There were two possible ways of getting out +of the camp, or rather away from the street in +which we lived, and either seemed fairly easy +to arrange.</p> + +<p>In order to get our provisions ready, we had +to take one or two of the British orderlies +into our confidence. We decided after much +scheming that we would take 20 lb. of food +each, consisting of 11 lb. of biscuits, 2½ lb. +of cheese, 2½ lb. of smoked meat, 1¾ lb. of +chocolate, 1½ lb. of Horlick's Malted Milk +and the remainder of soup squares, cocoa and +sugar, with a box of tea tabloids. The biscuits +were made of good white flour, for which we +had at that time to pay an exorbitant price as<a name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a> +it was almost unobtainable; butter and sugar, +which were also appallingly expensive, were +added. Some were made with raisins, all +being baked as hard as possible to save weight. +These, with raisins, proved much the most +popular subsequently. Our mess cook, +Gunner Prosser, R.F.A., made most of the +biscuits and was very keen to do all he could to +help us. In order to keep things dark we +told as few people as possible, but several +people must have suspected us before we +finally took our departure. The all-important +question of the food to be carried caused much +discussion before the final schedule was drawn +up. Some were for taking one solid lump of +duff instead of biscuits, but the latter won +the day as containing less water and being +therefore of more value weight for weight. +K. had a profound belief in Horlick's Malted +Milk, which was fully justified by our subsequent +experience. For some days prior +to our departure a notice on the board, which +was used by people who wished to exchange +contents of parcels from home, informed all +and sundry that Lt. K. could offer a very +large variety of articles, ranging from honey +to socks, in exchange for Malted Milk. This +resulted in most of our supply being obtained. +The question of meat was difficult, as tinned<a name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a> +stuff received from home was too heavy and +there was nothing to be got in the bazaar but +smoked mutton, which was not very appetizing. +Eventually, we decided on the mutton. +We had a good many soup squares of different +kinds, but on the journey we wished we had +had more cocoa instead. We decided to pack +as much food as possible in small bags, for +which some puggaree cloth came in handy, +and an old pillow-case made a good receptacle +for the biscuits. K. spent a long time sewing +up small bags and in generally thinking out +and preparing for all eventualities.</p> + +<p>In the event of our being forced to buy +food, we had decided that our only chance +was to pretend we were Germans, since the +country people, while seeing we were not +Turks, would be too ignorant to know any +difference between Briton and Hun. This +also fell in well with our plan of going in uniform. +To make things more secure we forged +a passport. This was written out by Captain +Rich, 120th Infantry, who knew Turkish +fairly well, and purported to be a letter from +the Army commander at Angora to Hauptmann +Hermann von Below, who, with three +German orderlies, was said to be travelling +on a surveying expedition. It was requested +that the utmost facilities should be given him<a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a> +in his work. The name of the Army commander +we had managed to obtain correctly, +and this was signed in a different hand and +ink. A seal was also appended, as is usual +in all Turkish documents, and suitably smudged +so that the name which did not correspond +with the signature might be illegible.</p> + +<p>A volume dealing with woodcraft was perused +by K., who discovered that the ordinary +type of rock lichen was a highly nutritious +food and, also, that nearly all forms of toad-stool +were equally useful. We hoped not to +need such emergency rations and, fortunately, +never got to that stage in our subsequent +adventures. Over and above the 20 lb. of +food we estimated that each one would need +to carry 10 lb. more in kit and equipment, +the former comprising a spare pair of socks, +a "woolly" and vest or something similar, +and the latter a haversack and waterbottle, +matches, knife, spoon and soap. In addition +we carried a sail, about 40 feet of light rope, +a light axe head, two canteens, a safety razor, +housewife, nails and thread for repairing +boots, maps, and compasses. These were +divided up into equal weights between the +four of us. The sail was rather a work of art. +It was made in two pieces from a bed sheet, +the lining of two Wolseley valises and a couple<a name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a> +of towels. With the help of a sailor friend, +Lieut. Nicholson, R.N.R., we roped it all +round. It measured about 10 ft. by 7 ft. +6 in., and weighed complete about 7 lb. +The idea was that, having discovered a +boat and if need be hewn down a small tree +for a mast, we would paddle off from the coast +and put up the sail as quickly as possible after +sewing the two pieces together. Tip was to +be our navigator, as he had done a good deal +of sailing in pre-war days.</p> + +<p>As Sweet was the only man with a rucksack, +we three had to make our own. This meant a +good deal of laborious sewing. My own was +laid on the foundation of a khaki drill bag +originally received in Mesopotamia with gifts +from the ladies of Bombay; this was reinforced +with an old pair of braces and the +necessary webbing sewn on. It proved a +most useful article and stood the journey +wonderfully well, although getting somewhat +soiled in appearance.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">THE FIRST NIGHT</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>I</span></span><span class="firstwords">t</span> +was not the easiest thing in the world +to hold our meetings, accomplish our +sewing and complete the sail without +being interrupted by other people or giving +the show away. Our excuses for keeping +many people out of our room must have seemed +rather thin on many occasions, and certainly +gave rise to suspicion in one quarter. One +day the interpreter Napoleon came to the +door, but luckily suspected nothing and departed. +Napoleon had been of great service +to us after the wretched Greek interpreter +we had had on our arrival, and we hoped our +departure would not get him into trouble. +We instructed our orderly to endeavour to +put Napoleon off the track the morning after +we had gone. The rule was that we had to +report to him at ten in the morning as well +as at night. Very often people omitted to do +so, but in that case he generally wandered +round quietly until he had seen they were<a name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a> +still present. Our confederates amongst the +officers promised to say we had all gone up the +hill to work at the cemetery to which a party +went every day, to complete the building of +a wall round the graves of the three officers +and three men whom we had there laid to +rest.</p> + +<p>In addition, we left a letter supposed to be +written by Sweet to me, talking of our proposed +route and saying that he agreed we had +much better go towards Sivas, and giving +a number of villages <i>en route</i>. This was supposed +to be destroyed, and was to be found +by accident by our orderly in a crumpled +condition when and not until our escape was +fully realized by the Turks. Our exit was +to be made from a side door into an alley leading +off the main street. This door was nailed +up, but, like so many things in Turkey, it +was done in a very slip-shod fashion with two +boards having only two nails through each. +To reach the door, entrance had to be obtained +to a back garden, and this meant +passing through another door which was +padlocked every evening. Investigation +proved that, though the padlock seemed +sound, the staple might very easily be withdrawn +and replaced afterwards. Six officers +helped us enormously on the night we actually<a name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a> +started. They were Major Corbett and +Captain Raynor, 48th Pioneers, Captain +R. Lowndes, R.G.A., Lieuts. Dooley, Cawley-Smith +and Galloway, all I.A.R.O. Three +opened the doors while another drowned +their efforts by doing some violent bed repairing +in a front room, this necessitating much +hammering. The others kept a look-out +on the sentries in the road or engaged them +in amiable conversation in their best Turkish.</p> + +<p>It had been difficult to decide which night +to start. We had no tables giving the time +the moon would rise and wanted to arrange +to have a good hour of darkness after getting +out. Finally we decided to start on Wednesday +night, August 8th, at 10 p.m. Sweet, +who lived in the other group of houses, +arranged to come to dinner in our mess, being +invited by Captain Martin, I.M.S., who not +only assisted us in selecting our food but +placed his room at our disposal for storing +our kit and assembling in just before starting. +Our plan was to wait behind the door in the +alley until our mess cook, Prosser, should come +and tap on the further side to show that all +was clear. This man was in the habit of +often going out after dark into the town disguised +in an old coat, a fez, and a sham beard +which he had himself made out of goat-skins.<a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a> +His usual practice was to put the fez and beard +on in the road and walk straight up past the +sentries. On the night in question he got +out in some such way and reconnoitred the +route we should have to take to get out of +the town on to the hill. Luckily we were on +the edge of the town and a climb of two or +three hundred yards through houses would +take us out on to a Mohammedan graveyard +on the hillside. As we were waiting silently +in the dark behind the door, somebody gave +a kerosine tin a kick, and the resulting clatter +seemed bound to bring some one down upon +us. However, nothing happened; but a +moment or two later we heard a heavy tread +going slowly up the alley.</p> + +<p>Our friends, watching, reported that this +was the sergeant of the guard and we began +to feel anxious. After another minute a tap +came on the door. Our orderly had seen the +sergeant safely into a small mosque round the +corner, and everything was clear. We hurried +out in single file, endeavouring to be quite +silent but seeming to make an awful noise. +I was wearing a pair of rope sole shoes and +carrying my boots while the others had put +old socks over their boots. In spite of our +anything but noiseless departure we were not +noticed. We scrambled up the hill and five<a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a> +minutes later were under cover in the graveyard. +Here we put our rucksacks and coats +on properly and prepared for an all-night trek. +In order to look less like officers and more +like local scallywags we had turned our coats +inside out and also carried our packs in a +blanket over one shoulder. We had decided +to wear old khaki, so as to be able to prove +we were really British if necessary in case of +accidents or bad luck. After taking us a little +further, our orderly friend shook hands with +us all round, and with a quiet word of farewell +and thanks for his invaluable assistance +we set off on our adventure.</p> + +<p>We had to make a detour round the north of +the town across the main valley to get out to +the hills on the east. It was a clear, starry +night, but even so it was extraordinarily +difficult to recognize the hillsides which we +knew quite well by daylight. Hardly had +we gone a quarter of a mile before a dog began +to bark on the main road a little way off. +Later on, we did not pay much attention to +dogs, as we generally started at least one +every night by walking near a village or too +close to houses; but this animal, being the +first and so near to the town, was anything +but pleasant to listen to. We scrambled +down a steep bank across a nullah and up a<a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a> +gully running into a hill which we had to +climb. The main nullah we had just crossed +ran down towards the road passing the magazine, +where by day there was always a guard. +However, the dog soon ceased his complaint +and quietness reigned. We were already +beginning to feel the weights of our packs and, +as the night was warm and our direction led +up the stony, pathless side of a steep hill, +we soon had to call a halt. In fact, although +we did not admit it to each other, these +moments were really almost the worst of +our whole trip and each secretly thought +what an idiot he had been ever to start. +Having started, however, there was nothing +for it but to continue and after a few minutes' +rest we trudged on. A little further brought +us out on the top, where we were annoyed +to find that the moon was already well up, +whereas we had reckoned on at least another +half-hour of darkness.</p> + +<p>During the last few days, we had carefully +timed the moon's rising, and endeavoured to +foretell the time for the night of our venture +from comparisons with last year's almanac, +which was all we had to go upon.</p> + +<p>On the top of the hill, we could just make +out the big square of the Turkish barracks +lying down in the valley, a building which we<a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a> +had passed almost every day during the last +year on our way to the football ground or on +walks. Sweet wanted to give it a much wider +berth than I had intended, and in consequence +we were longer in getting down to the Ineboli +road which had to be crossed. What was our +horror when we did approach it to hear the +creaking of country carts coming up towards +the town. They seemed to be nearly opposite +to us and, as there was little cover and the +moon bright, the only thing to do was to lie +down in the ditch where we were and hope +the carts would pass. We waited some time, +but yet more carts seemed to be approaching +and the drivers of others had halted almost +opposite to us. There was nothing for it +but to turn back and try again lower down the +road. After creeping back a little way on +all fours, we made a circle and came out +into an open field, heading once more for the +road. Here we were dismayed to hear yet +another cart coming. There was no cover +this time, not even a ditch, so we had to make +a dash for it. This succeeded, and we were +across the road and some little distance into +a field of high crops on the far side before the +carts passed. These carts were evidently +coming into the town for the following day's +market, but we had not counted on meeting<a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a> +any at all. We were now in the centre of the +valley, and after crossing the stream made our +way over some more fields to the Sinope road +which we crossed without further adventure.</p> + +<p>We had now reached open country, and after +another half-mile rested again. We were all +feeling a bit done up and thought we had taken +too much kit. On starting again, we found +that so far we were on the right track, but +from now onwards we were going on a line we +had not been on before even by day, and we +regretted afterwards we had not for this first +night kept straight on down the main Sinope +road, along which we could have made good +going, although it did not lead due east, which +was the direction we had planned. There were +guard houses at intervals on this road, but I +knew it for the first ten miles, having driven +out with my colonel once when he was allowed +a carriage to go fishing, this being a special +favour which ceased to be granted as soon as +the commandant of the town got to hear +about it.</p> + +<p>After several miles of up and down going, +we reached the first river we had to cross. +Along each side were irrigated maize-fields, +but, fortunately, we managed to get through +these and over the stream without coming +to any houses or dogs, although there were<a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a> +villages and farms quite close. Another ascent +met us on the further side and we plodded +slowly on. The country was mostly open +pasture and plough-land and there were few +trees except those beside the streams in the +valleys. Eventually, we got to the top of the +ridge and a little later found ourselves overlooking +another deep valley with a stream +running a thousand feet below us. After +a steep scramble down, we reached the water +and called a halt. A tin of tongue presented +by some one at the last minute was opened +and eagerly consumed. It was now about +3 a.m. and we had not much more than +another hour and a half to two hours before +daylight, when we had to be safely under +cover. On leaving the stream, we found we +were not far from a hamlet, and roused the +attentions of another dog. However, we +plodded on once more. We could now see +woods in the distance but, before reaching +them, had some difficult country to cross. +Tip and K. were feeling very done up and, +as there were signs of dawn and other dogs +taking up the hue and cry, we began to feel a +bit anxious. These dogs seemed to be approaching +from a village; but we just managed +to get away from them, although it +seemed that they must rouse the whole<a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a> +countryside. During our next halt of a few +minutes, we heard a cart coming along from +the village, and, evidently, the peasants were +already starting on the toil of another long +harvest day, even though it was only just +beginning to get light. Sweet and I had +gone on, and on looking back could see no +signs of the others. We went back a little +way and luckily found them. We had just +scrambled up a steep hill and were all fairly +well done up. A little further took us to a +pine wood, where we decided to lie up for +the day. We lay just inside while the cart +we had heard approached and passed on up +the track we had just left. Then we turned +and went into the wood, only to find, however, +that sheep tracks ran everywhere and +that the wood itself only extended two hundred +yards to the top of the ridge where there +were open fields—also, what was worse still, +no part of the wood was really thick or offered +good cover. Still, now it was too late to go +on even if we had had the energy, and the +only thing to do was to stay and make the +best of it and trust to luck. We looked to +each side, but the sheep-tracks were almost +as thick in all directions. This meant that +at any time, but particularly in the evening, +we might expect a flock to come along and<a name="Page_125" id="Page_125"></a> +that would also mean a man or a boy and a +dog.</p> + +<p>It was, indeed, fortunate for our peace of +mind during this first day that we did not +know how soon our departure had been discovered. +Actually, this was found out within +two hours of our leaving, Sweet's absence +being first ascertained by Sherif Bey, who +simply snorted with rage and fury. What +had happened was that our orderly was very +nearly caught while trying to return to his +quarters: he had to run for it, and in so +doing lost one of his shoes. He got in safely, +however, and had at once to destroy the other +shoe. A few minutes later the Turkish +guard came round, searching for the odd +shoe, and listened carefully to the breathing +and heart-beats of every orderly to see which +one had been running. Luckily, however, +our friend Prosser had had just long enough +to compose himself in bed and was not +detected.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">ON THE HILLS</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>W</span></span><span class="firstwords">e</span> +made a breakfast from condensed +milk and a small ration of biscuit +and some cheese. We dared not +make a fire, as people were working on the +crops not very far away. After this we took +it in turns to keep watch at the top edge of +the wood. From this point a fine view could +be had across the ridges back towards Kastamuni, +although the town itself was hidden +in the valley. One track was clearly visible +and it was along this we expected to see signs +of pursuit, if any; but there was nothing +to be seen. The morning was perfect, and the +country spread away in the sunshine back +towards our old haunts. We appeared to +have made at the very least ten miles from +Kastamuni as the crow flies, but actually +had marched much further owing to the detour +round the town and our cross-country up +and down route since. Towards the east more +and higher hills could be seen, but we had to<a name="Page_127" id="Page_127"></a> +be careful of reconnoitring, as there were +flocks of sheep on the slopes not far away. +All of us had sundry adjustments to make in +our kit, which we felt we must lighten to +enable us to make better going. My own +costume consisted of an old and thin British +warm over either a thin shirt or vest with +old riding breeches and puttees. The others +had regulation tunics, and Sweet was highly +respectable, his uniform being nearly new. +In the event of our posing as Germans we +decided he must be the Herr Hauptmann, +as in addition to his better clothes he knew +more Turkish than the rest of us.</p> + +<a name="journey"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/journey_map_small.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="425"> +<p class="caption">MAP (SLIGHTLY REDUCED) USED ON JOURNEY TO BLACK SEA<br><i>(From Sir Henry Sykes "History of Persia")</i></p> +<p class="center"><a href="images/journey_map.jpg">Larger Version of Map</a></p> +</div> + +<p>I set about a ruthless lightening of my coat +by ripping out the lining, cutting off the turned-back +cuffs and all other small portions that +could be spared. We found it difficult to +sleep, but felt good for another effort as soon +as it began to get dark. About three o'clock, +we relinquished our observation post, as all +seemed quiet, and made another meal. Hardly +had we finished before a dog appeared at the +edge of the wood, and started barking as +only Turkish dogs seem able to. A few +moments later the expected boy also turned +up and stared down upon us after quieting +the dog. We thought this meant the village +being roused at once, and deputed Sweet to<a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a> +go and spin a big yarn of some sort to the +boy. He had scarcely got up before the boy +vanished. The only thing to do now was to +pack up and be off at once. This did not +take long, as we had purposely remained +ready to move at short notice. I abandoned +in a bush my rope sole shoes which I had +carried so far, and did not regret it, as they +were some weight and very slippery to walk +in. After creeping along, just inside the wood +at the top of the slope, for a short distance, +we found we were getting near a farm and +could not go further before dark. We could +not see the boy, but one or two sheep-dogs +were visible not far off and matters did not +look at all hopeful. However, no hue and +cry followed, and very likely the boy had been +as frightened of us as we of him, or he may +have thought we were merely out from Kastamuni +for a walk—although we had never +been nearly so far before.</p> + +<p>After waiting an hour at the edge of the +wood, we saw the sheep approaching and knew +they must be returning towards the farm. We +got down the slope back into the wood and as +much as possible off their line. There was a +little more cover here, but still it was rather +thin, and we could easily have been spotted +by anyone looking for us. By and by the<a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a> +sheep trooped past, but no dog came near +us and once more we breathed freely. To +improve our prospects, it now began to cloud +over and we had some rain. A dark cloudy +night for cross-country tramping was anything +but what we required; fortunately, +it cleared later on, although even then it was +black enough until the moon got up. Before +starting again, the question of weight of kit +had to be tackled and, although loath to part +with any of our food, we decided to discard +about two to three pounds each. For this +sacrifice most of our cheese and meat was +condemned. It seemed likely that the former +would not remain good for very long, so that +it was not much loss.</p> + +<p>We decided to make a start before it got +dark, and halt for food when we reached the +river which we judged must run in the deep +valley we were about to enter. Accordingly, +we left the wood at 7.30 and set off across the +corn-fields. A very steep and stony descent +followed, and by the time we struck a road +along the valley it was quite dark. We +followed this road a short distance until we +saw a light in a house a little way ahead. +We then turned off and went straight down +to the stream, where we proceeded to drink +at length and then bathe. During this<a name="Page_130" id="Page_130"></a> +bathe in the dark, I lost my soap, which was +a great calamity, and Tip his knife. We +dared not strike a light and had to be content to +go on without. After a light meal, we went +on up-stream. There appeared to be a ceremony +of some sort going on at the house with +a light, as there was a beating of drums. +We crossed the stream a little higher up, +taking off our boots and socks for the purpose. +Luckily on the other bank we struck a track +leading up the further side of the valley, which +was very steep at this point. After climbing +slowly up through brushwood in the dark for +an hour, we came to more open country. +Here there were farms, but we managed to +avoid them successfully. The night had +cleared sufficiently for us to see the stars, +and we were steering a course about due east. +A little further on, we got into a thick copse +and had great difficulty in finding any track. +Eventually, we emerged on to a road running +along the ridge beyond which lay the next +valley. After a short halt, we got under way +once more and made a good distance down the +road and along a path we found running down +to the next valley.</p> + +<p>We had to pass close through a farm and +several houses, but luckily there were no dogs. +After reaching the next stream and ascending<a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a> +it some way, we crossed over and found ourselves +in a maize-field. We gathered some +cobs, which were not yet ripe but would do to +cook. A few yards further we saw a light in +what appeared to be a sheep-pen. This we +found was the usual custom in the country. +All flocks are collected near the farm at night +and a shepherd with a big resin torch sits up +on guard. It was now just beginning to get +light in the east, so we turned up the hill, +and after a long and tiring climb found a +tolerably safe hiding-place in a pine wood, +<a name="tn_png_145"></a><!--TN: "Poor" changed to "poor"-->poor K. was very done up and the rest of us +not much better, except Sweet, who, physically, +was the toughest of us all. For nine +hours we had been on the move, but we could +not have done more than eight miles in a +straight line—though at the time we thought +it was much more. We lay down, and +got two or three hours' sleep before preparing +our next meal. We decided we +would risk making a fire, and after hunting +about for the most concealed spot boiled +water in our canteens and made cocoa. +This with a ration of biscuit formed our meal; +in addition, we used to allow ourselves a very +small bit of chocolate and a little Horlick's +milk. The latter by this time had coagulated +into one sticky lump, necessitating hard work<a name="Page_132" id="Page_132"></a> +with the point of a knife before a fragment +could be broken off. Luckily, the fire burned +without much smoke, and what little there +was we endeavoured to mitigate by fanning +it in different directions. Not long after +breakfast, we heard two horsemen trotting +along a road through the wood and apparently +quite close. We thought they were probably +gendarmes looking for us; but they passed +on and did not pause to make investigations +in our neighbourhood. Another visitor also +arrived, this being a man who was chopping +wood, and worked round our knoll for some +distance, but never came within sight. Nothing +further happened, and we spent a quiet +day under the trees. The weather was perfect, +and had we had a little more to eat we +should have enjoyed it immensely. At five +o'clock we made a stew of the maize with a +little Oxo; and an hour later, after clearing +up all traces of our activities, set off eastwards +through the wood.</p> + +<p>We soon reached the edge of the wood, and +found ourselves looking southwards across +a valley to a high range of hills. On the +lower slopes were several villages; but it was +doubtful if people could see us, especially as +our khaki was an excellent camouflage for +this country: in fact, this had been a great<a name="Page_133" id="Page_133"></a> +recommendation to the proposal for marching +in uniform. However, we endeavoured to +keep out of sight; and after travelling across +the high ground for a mile reached a spot +whence we could see the country eastwards +and choose out our route for the coming night. +The main valley had turned somewhat, and +now ran eastwards through a rocky gorge +which opened out beyond to a much greater +width. This seemed to be our best line, and +we thought there would surely be a track +leading up the valley along the stream. +At all events, our water was finished, and it +was urgent to fill up our bottles again as soon +as we could reach the river. We set off +accordingly, but had not gone far before +some one reported a man coming up the road; +we hid for some time, and when all was clear +went on again, only to find we were descending +to a field where women were still working, +getting in the harvest. This necessitated +another wait; but as darkness was approaching +the women soon left the field. In order +to help out our scanty stock of food and make +it go as far as possible, we were always on +the look-out for any food we could pick up +in the fields, and decided to take toll of this +corn-field. The wheat was ripe and in a few +minutes we all had a good pocketful, meaning<a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a> +to make a really substantial meal of wheat +porridge next morning. By the time we +reached a path near the bottom of the valley +it was quite dark. This track seemed to lead +downwards towards the river, and we followed +it, expecting to get to the water any minute, +but by and by it began to ascend again and +then to get rougher and harder to find. +This was very trying, as we all now wanted +water badly, and so we finally decided to try +a rocky gully leading steeply downwards. +Sweet led the way, but, being too eager to +get down, or through bad luck, slipped and +hurt his leg in falling over a rock. It was +very dark in the gully, and two candle ends +which Sweet had brought proved invaluable. +After climbing and crawling down some way +over rocks, we were finally brought up by a +sheer precipice falling 200 feet to the +river. Tired and disgusted, we sat down to +rest, and had to make up our minds to climb +out the way we had come, and then either to +go back down-stream or climb right to the +top of the valley and advance and get down +again higher up where the valley opened out. +The latter course was adopted and, Tip giving +us a good lead, we slowly and, in Sweet's case, +painfully scrambled back. K. also had a bad +time, as he was short-sighted and in such a +dark spot it was no easy matter to get along.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">SLOW PROGRESS</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>W</span></span><span class="firstwords">e</span> +all felt dreadfully tired as well as +thirsty. The past two nights had +told on us; and without proper +sleep and sufficient food we were not in the +best trim for a third night of mountaineering. +After getting back to the track, we had to +climb up the side of the ravine, which was +steep and rocky. Resting every few yards, +we eventually reached the top and turned +up-stream. The point where we had descended +the gully must have been in almost +the narrowest part of the gorge, and we could +see that we should have to move some way +along the crest before we could get down to +the water. We were still ascending, and +after continuing a little further decided to +lie down till dawn, and then trust to getting +down to the river and hiding before the +country people were about. It was hopeless +to try to get down again in the dark, even +had we possessed the strength. Thirsty as +we were, we got off to sleep; and, when<a name="Page_136" id="Page_136"></a> +we woke, found it was already beginning to +get light. It had got much colder and our +thirst had accordingly diminished. I had +lost my cap the night before shortly before +we camped, and now luckily managed to +find it on going back a little way. We +pressed on and began to descend again. It +took us at least an hour down a very steep +tree-clad slope. The stones we set rolling +seemed to make a dreadful noise, but actually +must have been drowned in the roar of the +torrent below. As we neared the river, we +found we were quite close to a farm; but no +one was about, and we got down without +trouble. How we drank, and what a relief +it was to be beside water again! After a +wash, we set about getting a meal by preparing +our wheat. It took some time to +get all the husks off the grain and longer to +boil it; but it was very good and filling. Our +biscuits had numbered originally about thirty-five +each, so that as we had reckoned on a +journey of a fortnight to the coast we only +allowed ourselves two and a half per day. +We made cocoa, in addition to the porridge, +and went to sleep under the bushes, feeling +a great deal better than we had done for +some hours. Our camp was in a most ideal +spot. Below us, the river wound down<a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a> +through the gorge, while the steep slopes on +each side of the valley were covered with +magnificent trees. There were a great many +hazel nuts, but these were not yet ripe or we +would have gathered a large number.</p> + +<p>Later on, we produced our razor and, one +by one, for the first time since leaving Kastamuni, +made ourselves presentable. I got +out the fishing line I had brought, but had +no luck, chiefly owing to there being no worms +to be seen in the soil on the river bank. The +preserved meat seemed to have little attraction +for the fish, of which there were plenty, +and our biscuits were too precious to be used +up in any way as bait.</p> + +<p>We started off once more about 6.30, and +after some rough going reached the wide part +of the valley where fields came down to the +river. Here we were soon brought to a stop +by seeing people still at work. Retracing +our steps, we crossed the stream and started +to ascend the northern side of the valley, +keeping roughly to our easterly direction. +After a steep ascent, we reached a fair track, +along which we made good progress. Once +or twice we had to wait and hide owing to +farm people being about; but after it had +got quite dark we got on again without interruption. +On one occasion we passed close<a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a> +to a farm. There was a resin-wood torch +burning in the yard, and just as we appeared +a woman opened a window and looked out; +we expected her to see us, but possibly the +glare from the torch was too strong, for she took +no notice. By midnight, we had reached +some high downland, where there seemed to +be a large number of farms. After lying down +for a couple of hours, we started off again; but +soon lost all sign of our track. Continuing +in our direction with the help of the stars +or compass, we suddenly found ourselves +within range of some village dogs. These +brutes devoted their attention to us long and +loudly, and there was nothing for it but to get +away across the fields as fast as we could. +After a little time, we found a track which presently +led into a pine wood. We trudged +on through the trees for two hours, the track +keeping on the crest of the hill and bending +round gradually towards the north. This +wood promised good cover for the next day, +and as we seemed to have reached its edge we +decided to stop here all day. We lay down +until it grew light and then moved to the best +spot we could find. This day was Sunday, +August 12th, and we can only have achieved +about 30 miles as the crow flies, although +at the time we put it at 40.<a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a></p> + +<p>Having picked no corn the night before, +we had to be content with our small biscuit +and meat ration which we carried, helped out +with a fragment of Horlick and chocolate. +Tip had not been feeling well all night and +was now in considerable pain. He said +porridge always laid him out, and our brew, +which was not very well boiled, had proved +no exception. As far as we could tell, it +seemed to be appendicitis or something very +like it. We discussed gloomy possibilities +of giving ourselves up in the event of his not +getting better; but he remained determined +to push on if he possibly could.</p> + +<p>We reconnoitred our route for the coming +night and set off again an hour before dusk. +From the hill on which we had camped we +could see a road leading in the direction we +wanted, down a wide valley, and we determined +to keep to this for some distance at all events. +After forcing our way through brushwood to +the foot of the hill, we were held up by hearing +carts approaching and had to hide until they +had gone past. We used this opportunity for +a wash and to fill up our water-bottles from +a small stream; and then set off again, following +the carts down the road. After marching +for an hour we reached some corn stacks +and collected more wheat. It took longer<a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a> +than when gathering it in an open field, but +in half an hour we had accumulated enough, +and again took the road. We had noticed +that, further on, there seemed to be a good +number of houses in the valley on our right +which we should have to cross. Our direction +now led down towards the river and the +track passed through a stack yard. We were +going quietly forward, when suddenly we +were surprised by a number of dogs, which +burst out upon us in full chorus from behind +a stack. An old man appeared immediately +afterwards and quieted the dogs, but luckily +made no attempt to question us, and we +passed on in silence. At night we always +wore fezes and hoped thus to pass as Turks +or Greeks.</p> + +<p>A short distance further on, we crossed the +stream and then were delighted to discover a +maize-field, where we gathered a few of the +biggest cobs we could find. A moment later +some one discovered that beans and marrows +were growing on the ground beneath the +maize, so we helped ourselves to these also. +The beans were of a dwarf French variety, +which seems to be the most popular kind +throughout the district. Thus provisioned, +we set off up a wide valley leading up in +front of us.<a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a></p> + +<p>Poor Tip was having a hard time, and as +we had to cross several ploughed fields before +discovering any path, matters for him became +much worse. He could manage to get along +all right on a smooth path, but rough going +gave him great pain. Fortunately, the road +we now struck had quite a fair surface and +we made a good pace for the next two hours, +assisted by the moon. Finally, about 4 a.m., +we lay down for an hour, until dawn, near +the side of the road. We found we had overslept +ourselves on waking, as it was broad +daylight; so we had to hurry off up a small +hill and hide in the bushes. The country +round seemed more deserted in this part of +the valley and we had got away from cultivated +land. As we were all now very done +up, we decided to move down to the centre of +the valley, which looked as if it must possess +a stream. There we intended to hide for +the rest of that day and the next. This we +thought might give Tip a chance to get right +again. After resting two or three hours on +the hill, we scrambled down and eventually +emerged in the main valley. Just before +we reached it we as nearly as possible walked +into two gendarmes, who were going up the +valley road and crossed our path about a +hundred yards ahead of us. However, they<a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a> +did not see us and all was still well. After +crossing the main valley and stream, we found +a small gully on the further side which seemed +to offer us good cover, as well as having a +small supply of water. As we crossed the +river bed to reach it we came in view of a man +and two boys working on an irrigation dam +a little higher up. Luckily, they had their +backs towards us and did not notice anything. +A little way up the gully, we found a sheltered +spot to camp in and prepared a meal, chiefly +from the vegetables we had gathered the night +before. We made Tip as comfortable as +possible, and with the aid of hot compresses +succeeded in making him feel easier. Nothing +occurred during the day, and, after another +stew had been consumed in the evening, we +set about making ourselves comfortable for +the night. With the aid of fir branches we +made a tolerably soft couch. Tip, K. +and I for purposes of additional warmth +slept side by side under the most substantial +part of the sail, while Sweet, who preferred to +be on his own, rolled himself up in the lighter +piece. We would have much enjoyed a little +more warmth at nights and, in spite of putting +on the few spare garments we each carried, +we were always much too cold before morning.</p> + +<p>Our plan now was to follow the road up to<a name="Page_143" id="Page_143"></a> +the head of the valley and then steer as +straight as possible for the Geuk Irmak +valley, along which we knew ran the main +road to Sinope. It was clear that we could +not make fast enough progress at the present +rate ever to reach Baffra before our provisions +gave out; our boots, also, were getting +badly worn and much work was done in repairs +at our various halts. Walking across +rough country at night had damaged them +much more severely than we had ever imagined +could be the case.</p> + +<p>The following day we spent in resting, cooking, +and also shaving and washing. As one +or two people had passed along the road in the +afternoon, we did not like to make an early +start and so waited until it was growing dark. +For the first mile the track remained fairly +good; then it forked, and we chose the left-hand +branch as leading in the direction we +wanted most. It was now quite dark and +the sky cloudy; but what was much worse, the +track got more and more indistinct as we +slowly emerged into open country and fields +at the head of the valley. Several times we +had to halt and spread out to find the path; +and then, at last, when we did reach a cart +track we almost walked right into a big farm. +After pausing to reconnoitre, we decided to<a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a> +try to skirt it on the left, and had got half +way round when a sheep-dog heard us and +started off at full blast. There was a shepherd +sitting with a torch in one of the farm +buildings, but he took no notice. Shortly +afterwards we found a field of beans to which we +helped ourselves, and then had to make a +diversion to avoid another house. This led +us into a pinewood and we were soon forced +to give it up until morning, as we could see +no way through in the darkness. We lay +down close together and got a few hours' +sleep before the first sign of daylight roused us +to continue our journey. We had to pass +closer than we liked to a farm; but no one was +about yet and we got away on to a high ridge +covered with brushwood. After making our +way for a short time along this, we halted and +made cocoa, which with a biscuit formed our +breakfast. By this time our biscuits had +broken up into small fragments, so that we +had to estimate how many bits were equal +to a whole biscuit. Our experiences of the +night before forced us to the conclusion that +it was hopeless trying to do a good march by +night unless on a good track; and we, therefore, +decided to cut across a low cultivated stretch +of land to the forest covering the opposite +ridge and continue by daylight until reaching<a name="Page_145" id="Page_145"></a> +the Geuk Irmak. It was now about nine +o'clock and the peasants were at work in the +fields almost all round us. There was no safe +way of reaching the woods opposite without +exposing ourselves to view, and the only +thing was to do the best we could and use all +the cover available. On getting down to a +stream from a steep hill, we found we were close +to some women and children. The latter saw +us, but the women were too busy to notice +us and we reached cover in a nullah on the +further side without any alarm being raised. +Our next encounter was with an old Turk. +He saw us just before we saw him and was off +to ground in some cover before one could say +knife. Evidently, he was very much more +startled at seeing us than we were at seeing +him. After this we were not seen by any +other people, and after skirting a harvest +field got well into the forest. At two o'clock +we halted, and having slept for two hours +made another stew and prepared to go on +till dark. We were in a big forest chiefly of +huge pines which were being cut in places for +resin. Our direction was now nearly due +north, and every rise we topped would, we +hoped, bring us in view of the Geuk Irmak +valley. As is generally the case, the +longed-for view was very slow in making its<a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a> +appearance, and we had to bivouac for the +night without reaching our goal. We had +passed a small flour mill, driven by a water +wheel. Sweet had investigated it for flour, but +it was swept and garnished and absolutely +empty.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">BLUFFING THE PEASANTS</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>N</span></span><span class="firstwords">ext</span> +morning we were off at the first +streak of dawn, after a very cold +night. We were in a narrow valley, +and look where we would we could not find +the track we had seen not long before halting +the previous night. The hills were too steep +and wooded to make it possible to get along +low down by the stream, so there was no other +course open except to start climbing again +in the hope of meeting the track at a higher +level. This we succeeded in doing after +toiling up some distance. Following the +track, we emerged after a couple of miles +on a hill overlooking the long expected Geuk +Irmak. It was too late in the morning and +the neighbourhood too populous to make +further progress possible, so we bivouacked +close by in the wood and hoped to make good +distance that night along the main road in +the valley. Starting an hour before dark, +we were forced to wait for a home-coming<a name="Page_148" id="Page_148"></a> +couple who were slowly returning along the +track we were intending to take. When they +were safely off the scene, we had to scramble +down through the thickest copse it was ever +our misfortune to meet with, and by the time +we had reached the river it was quite dark. As +on all such occasions, we took off our boots +and socks to cross and replaced them on the +other side, only to find soon after that there +was another branch of the river which we had +not been able to see in the dark, so that the +process had to be repeated. Even then we +were not over dry-shod, as there were now +several irrigated fields to be crossed before +we could get to the road. Creeping along +the small bund dividing two fields, we endeavoured +to keep on dry ground; but were not +very successful. Finally, we reached a big +irrigation nullah, which meant another wade. +We were now, at last, on the main road; but +it had taken us two hours' hard going to get +there, which was a great disappointment. +Soon after starting again, we met a couple +of men on ponies, driving cattle. At the time +we were rather separated; Tip and I escaped +observation, but Sweet and K. were not so +lucky, for the men stopped and asked who +they were. Sweet promptly said "Germans" +and gave a few details. The men, however,<a name="Page_149" id="Page_149"></a> +declared they were prisoners, but did not +seem disposed to make trouble, and moved on +again after a few minutes, much to Sweet's +relief.</p> + +<p>After another hour's trek, we felt too exhausted +to go further, and lay down, intending +to do a little more at dawn. The mosquitoes +were a great pest in this valley and we had +a very poor night's sleep. We had now come +down to a much lower elevation: Kastamuni +was 2,500 feet above sea, but this spot could +scarcely be 1,000 feet. As soon as it grew +light in the morning we were off again along +the road, after filling up our water-bottles +from the river and investigating another flour +mill which proved to be empty. Very soon +we came to a picturesque old wooden bridge +spanning the stream and, after crossing this, +decided to lie up for the day on the hill-side +above. The valley became wider at this +point and several hamlets and farms were to +be seen; it therefore behoved us to get under +cover as quickly as possible, since the peasants +are very early astir. We found a good place +and lit a fire. This was, perhaps, rather rash, +but we felt that it was worth risking a good +deal to have something hot to drink. As +we had had no luck in getting vegetables +the night before, we had to be content with<a name="Page_150" id="Page_150"></a> +small rations. After an uneventful sunny +day, we moved down to the road in the +evening, and after filling our bottles with +water from the river gathered some maize +and marrows from a field close by. We then +set off down the road and made very fair +progress for the next three hours.</p> + +<p>Loaded as we were with several extra +pounds each of marrow, we got more tired +than would otherwise have been the case. +Eventually, the road led us into a village, and +we had to walk straight past some people +coming towards us. They took no notice, +however, and we went on. A little further, +there was a light in a flour mill, which was +grinding away as hard as it could go, being +driven by a small water turbine. There +seemed to be no track by which we could +avoid going right through the village, and +after retracing our steps once or twice we +decided there was nothing else for it. We +tramped down the road past several old +fellows who were sitting outside a house and +were probably interested in the activities of +the flour mill. Most likely, by grinding +secretly at night, it is possible to escape the +Government's taxes on flour, but needless +to say we did not stop to make inquiries. +The road seemed to take us nowhere. After<a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a> +visiting one or two back yards and coming +out in another place on top of a house, we +had eventually to retrace our steps past the +old men to the end of the village which we +had first entered. How that road made +its way out we never discovered and, in consequence, +lost a good deal of time and distance.</p> + +<p>After sleeping for a couple of hours in a +graveyard, we set off with the first streak of +dawn to make a circuit round the south +side of the village, and reached a hill which +promised safety for the day. It took us a +long time and many halts had to be made. +We disposed of our marrows by eating +them raw, and decided that they were too +heavy to be worth carrying any distance in +future. Finally, we reached a snug spot +in brushwood high up on the hill and made +ourselves as comfortable as circumstances +would allow.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, I decided to go to the top +of the hill to try to locate our exact position +in the valley. After a steep climb I got a +splendid view all round and discovered a convenient +track for us to follow as soon as it +grew dark. A town was clearly visible a few +miles further on, and this I felt sure must be +Duraghan, although the road leading to it did +not correspond with what was shown on our<a name="Page_152" id="Page_152"></a> +map. However, we decided that it must be +this place, as by our calculations we reckoned +we must have come every bit of the distance. +Our disgust may be imagined when on the +following day we found the place was really +Boiabad, a town 30 miles short of Duraghan.</p> + +<p>Just after getting back to our bivouac, it +came on to pour, but luckily we managed to +get a fire going and a stew made just in time. +However, the result was that we started marching +an hour later, soaked very nearly to the +skin, and with no prospect of being able to +get dry in the near future. We came close +to the town, as it was getting dark, and after +crossing a stream had some discussion as to +which road to take. Finally, we selected a +track which we thought must lead into the +main valley, where we were certain the main +road would run on our side of the river. As +a matter of fact, it had crossed to the other +side and we did not meet it till next day. +We continued along this track till midnight, +when we lay down for a little sleep; but it +was too cold to be possible in our wet things +and in an hour we were up and off again. +A few miles further on, we found we were +close to a village through which the track +ran and, joyful sight, there were several corn +stacks close by. These promised a warm<a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a> +shelter until dawn; but it was not to be. The +usual village dog had already heard us and +although we remained stock still he would not +cease his frantic barking. One old peasant +had already been roused up and came slowly +towards us. Our only course was to go +straight on; and we went right into the village, +past several houses, through a cow pen, over +a hedge and so on to the moor beyond. Just +as we got clear some sportsmen let off a shot-gun. +No pellets came near us and it was +probably only meant as a warning to robbers!</p> + +<p>Luckily, we were not followed and got away +over the hill, steering east. After some distance +we rested again, until morning should +show us our whereabouts. We were evidently +some way from the river and a good height up. +As it began to get light, we moved off towards +the river, hoping to find a snug hiding-place +near the water. No such luck was in store +for us, for just as we reached a slope overlooking +the river we saw a small village at our +feet, and the village dogs saw us almost at +the same moment. Wearily we retraced our +steps uphill, and when out of range of the dogs +held a council as to our future efforts. It was +clear that while walking by night we were +covering very little distance, and that at this +rate the food we carried would be exhausted<a name="Page_154" id="Page_154"></a> +long before we reached the sea. We decided, +therefore, that our only hope lay in bluffing +the country people that we were Germans +and buying food where we could. Accordingly, +we made for the first house we could see, +where a miserable peasant and two women +were working. We explained that we were +Germans surveying, and produced our maps +and passport in support of this contention. +They did not doubt us; but they had no food +to sell and, indeed, looked as poor and +wretched as people well could. However, +they referred us to their master, who was the +headman of the locality. We crossed a few +fields and were then met by this gentleman, +to whom we told the same story. He led us +into his house and providing us with seats +gave orders for food to be prepared. In the +meanwhile, Sweet carried on a conversation +to the best of his ability. It appeared that +our host was one Ahmed Chaoush (sergeant) +who had been fighting against us in Gallipoli +but now had a year's sick leave. He took in +our story, but asked some awkward questions, +such as why we carried no revolvers? Sweet +had to pretend not to understand and, luckily, +Ahmed did not become suspicious. We gathered +from him that the town we had passed +in the night was Boiabad and that Duraghan<a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a> +was several hours' distance in front of us. +This was a cruel blow, and only showed us how +much slower we had been than we thought. +In the meantime, the chaoush had produced +some small pears which were soon disposed +of. Finally, after much anxious speculation +as to whether or no our host intended to give +us a meal, real signs of preparation appeared +for that eagerly expected event.</p> + +<p>A few minutes later a small circular table +was produced and several dishes were brought +in. These consisted of cucumber sliced up in +milk, small wads of boiled flour in milk, +yoghourt or curdled milk and chapatties—a +feast such as we had hardly dared to hope +for. Turkish fashion, we sat round, each +armed with a wooden spoon and dipped in the +same dish, emptying one after another. It +is etiquette on such occasions to wait until +the next man has taken a spoonful so that all +may get the same number in the end, but I +fear we were not always so scrupulous and +ate as fast as our usual habits would allow. +When the table and dishes had been cleared +away, Ahmed was given a little English tobacco +and told it was the best German variety. +Soon after we bid him a grateful farewell, +and, although he was unwilling to take anything, +succeeded in getting him to accept<a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a> +some money. We felt that to accept his +hospitality and humbug him without any payment +would scarcely be playing the game. +He directed us towards our road, for which we +had to descend again to the main valley and +cross the river. On the further side we were +delayed by a large irrigation nullah. When +across this we found a good many blackberries +and some onions in a field. The latter we +seized upon with avidity, as being the first +we had met with. There was some doubt +as to which of two roads we should take, +but it was decided to pursue one which some +women had pointed out as the right road +to Duraghan. This led straight away from +the river and began to climb steeply. After a +couple of hours, we had ascended some distance +and decided to bivouac till the afternoon. +The sun was pretty hot, but we were +now high up and on top of a small hill from +which the surrounding ranges could be clearly +seen. It was evident that we had not come +in the direction we had intended, but, on the +other hand, we were now heading direct for +the sea. After some discussion and poring +over the map, we decided that our only real +chance of reaching the sea lay in making a +bee-line across country as nearly as possible in +a north-easterly direction, buying food where<a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a> +we could and walking by day. If we had gone +on we should not only have had to skirt +Duraghan by night, or make a big detour by +day, but the distance down to the sea would +have been very much greater. In addition, +it would have been much hotter for walking, +with the extra hardship of mosquitoes at +night.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">REACHING THE COAST</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>W</span></span><span class="firstwords">e</span> +made it to be 30 miles in a +straight line to the sea from the +spot where we now lay and hoped +to do the distance in three days. After the +chaoush's hospitality at breakfast we scarcely +felt inclined for another meal till the afternoon, +when we made tea, and then packed up, +intending to follow up a track beside a stream +which flowed down from the range we had now +determined to cross. Descending our hill, +we came to a small village, and thought it +would be just as well to see if we could purchase +any provisions before going further. +We asked some children for eggs, whereupon +a Turkish matron of an unusually agreeable +type came out and after a little parleying +brought us quite a royal supper. This consisted +mainly of an excellent tomato stew, +chapatties, yoghourt and fruit. Taking into +account what we had accumulated from Ahmed +Chaoush, we had now got quite a good<a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a> +stock of chapatties. The amusement afforded +by bluffing these good people had considerably +raised our spirits, but all at once the good +dame serving us staggered us completely by +saying casually she had seen us in Kastamuni. +We assured her it must have been +other people, as we had no connection with +Kastamuni and were real Germans from +Angora.</p> + +<p>Just before leaving a man appeared who +eyed us very suspiciously, and we were glad +to get away without waiting to make his +acquaintance. We had hardly gone a mile +before an old man ran to meet us with his +cap full of apples. We seemed almost to be +entering on a triumphal progress and were +tremendously amused. Several houses and +a large village were passed without event, +but a little further on we found several men +with mules resting a short distance from the +road. They called to us, and probably +wanted to continue their journey in our company, +but it was sailing nearer the wind than +we cared for and, pretending we had to go on +at once, we did not stop to hear anything +more from them. Just before dark we passed +through a very picturesque gorge, where the +stream ran through a deep narrow gateway +between two enormous masses of rock, and<a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a> +beyond this found a nook to sleep in for the +night where we should be protected from the +wind. This had been a truly great day, and +its success seemed to confirm the wisdom of +our new policy.</p> + +<p>Early the following morning, we were once +more pursuing our path, which now became +fainter and steeper as it rose towards the +rocky ridge towering above us. Towards +eleven o'clock, we reached some poor houses +not far below the crest. Hoping to be able +to purchase food, we stopped and made +inquiries, but all the chief people seemed to +be away at some market and there was nothing +to be had. We continued on our way and +after another hour's tramp came to a cattle +trough by the side of the path. As there was +water flowing here, we decided to halt till +the afternoon, and found a snug spot a few +yards up the hill. In the afternoon, after +washing and shaving, we were nearly discovered +by a man who appeared to be a gendarme. +He came riding down the path and +stopped to water his horse at the trough, but +passed on without noticing anything. Soon +afterwards we were again marching, still +upwards towards the crest of the mountain +ridge. We must have been now over 4,000 +feet up, and hoped when we reached the top<a name="Page_161" id="Page_161"></a> +we should actually see the sea. An hour's +trek took us to a poor village standing very +high and, probably, in winter almost always +in the clouds. An ill-clad woman informed +us that she was a Greek who had only just +arrived from Kastamuni. She seemed to +have a pretty clear notion as to what we really +were, but said nothing and, eventually, got +us yoghourt and some chapatties. Our direction +was now about north-east and we were +making for Tel Kelik, a small place marked +on the map, a little on the northern side of the +watershed. Most of the peasants seemed +never to have heard of it, and we had some +difficulty in getting on to a path leading in the +right direction. As it grew dusk, we found +ourselves in a second village at almost the +same elevation; there was no one about, +but eventually a man turned up who said +he was on his way home to another village. +The village women in particular were most +suspicious, declaring that there was no food +anywhere; and it was not until some little +while later, when the colour of our money +had been clearly shown, that anything was +forthcoming. We had intended to spend the +night in a village hut if possible, as the only +alternative was sleeping in the mist, which at +4,000 feet was a cold and dreary prospect.<a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a> +However, after some parleying, we were led +to what proved to be the travellers' rest hut. +Our story was absorbed with due interest, a +large fire lighted and some food brought in. +We lay down on mats on the floor, rejoicing +in the warmth and, if undisturbed by smaller +visitors, felt we should have a really good +night's rest. Several village worthies looked +in during the evening to see the Almans +(Germans) and we hope were not disappointed. +A young soldier just returned on leave from +Constantinople helped to procure some butter +and syrup for us. The latter is a poor substitute +for treacle and seems to be made from +raisins. This reception in a travellers' rest +hut was the limit reached by our bluff; it gave +us much satisfaction to think how annoyed +our Turkish friends in Kastamuni would be +to know of our being entertained in such a +manner.</p> + +<p>We had a splendid night, although lying +on the floor, and in the morning obtained a +little more food and some butter through our +soldier friend. After a hasty meal we hurried +off with our first acquaintance of the previous +night as guide to put us on the right road. We +were soon at the highest point of the range, +although as yet the sea was not in view. A +little further on, after having bought a large<a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a> +knife from our friend, we bade him good-bye +with many expressions of gratitude. Tel +Kelik was now quite close, and it was fortunate +that we were not compelled to march +through it, since we found later that there was +a Turkish detachment stationed in the village. +Leaving the Tel Kelik valley, we climbed the +hill on our side and an hour later—at 9.30—were +delighted at finding the sea stretching +out before us in the sunshine. It looked +about fifteen miles off, but the mere sight +seemed to raise our spirits marvellously, +and we were, perhaps, almost as elated as +Xenophon's men when the same sea greeted +their gaze at Trebizond. We were now in +a copse and decided to halt till evening. To +celebrate the occasion, we made a late breakfast +of buttered eggs, the eggs having been +bought at a cottage we had passed during the +morning. The next work in front of us was +to make something of the coarse flour which +we had procured two days previously from the +Greek woman. Sweet got to work and, +using some of the butter and our last tin of +condensed milk, turned out a very fine dough. +Baking was the chief difficulty and, after +trying to make an oven, in the end we had to +be content with making small chapatties on +our diminutive frying-pan turned upside down<a name="Page_164" id="Page_164"></a> +and on the lid of a canteen. The results +were very satisfactory, although consisting +largely of fragments.</p> + +<p>At four o'clock in the afternoon, we set +off again and by dark had gone a good distance, +and, after finding a sheltered spot for +the night, collected a quantity of dead bracken +to make ourselves as comfortable as possible.</p> + +<p>We were off again early next morning, and +had a steep scramble down through a wood, and +eventually, to a stream at the bottom of a deep +valley. Here there were a number of blackberries +which we took advantage of, and then +climbed the further side, coming out at last +on the top and finding nothing now lay +between ourselves and the beach, which must +have been only three miles away at the +nearest point. A moment later a sailing boat +was seen close in to the shore and two or three +others soon after. We were overjoyed at this, +as it meant that boats were still being used +along the coast and that there was no truth +in all the stories we had heard in Kastamuni +to the effect that no boats were now plying. +There was a small wooded hill projecting +into the sea a little west of where we now were, +and from its summit there would be a good +view of the coast in each direction; on the +other hand we knew we could not be far from<a name="Page_165" id="Page_165"></a> +the town of Jerse, and going west meant +getting still nearer to it. Also, there were +several farms and open country between us +and the hill, and we were now very anxious +not to be seen at all if we could help it. In +the end, we decided to stay where we were +for the day and go straight down to the +shore in front of us late in the afternoon. +The wood we were in was very thick and, try +as we might, no good spot for a halt could +be found which would also give us a clear +outlook on to the coast and any boats sailing +along it. We had to be content to do without +further observation of the sailing boats, +and bivouacked amongst the trees. Tea +was made and a frugal meal of biscuits +followed; our cocoa was now all exhausted, +and greatly did we wish we had brought more +of it in the place of some other things.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">RECAPTURED</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>I</span></span><span class="firstwords">n</span> +the afternoon, we sewed together the +two halves of the sail and cut a handle +for our axe head so as to be as ready as +possible in the event of discovering a boat. +After making a stew from some beans we had +gathered in a field on the hill that morning, +we packed up and set off, full of hope and +excitement. The question of going across +to the wooded hill arose again when we got +clear of the wood, but it was thrown out, and, +bitterly did we regret it next day. Turning +down to the shore, we crossed the road and, +eventually, reached the beach just as it was +getting dark. There were one or two small +houses just on our right above the shingle, +and we were reconnoitring carefully when +a big rowing boat was seen coming along +close to the beach, rowed by some eight men. +It went a quarter of a mile further along, and +the boat was then pulled up by the men and +others who appeared from the houses. It was<a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a> +too dark to see what they were, but for some +unknown reason we did not suspect that they +were men of a guard at this place, or connect +the houses with a place shown on one of our +maps as being somewhere near here. We +debated whether to go along the coast when +it was quite dark and reconnoitre, or whether +to wait for dawn. In any case, it seemed +hopeless to think we could push off the boat +which had just been pulled up: it was far +too heavy and they had brought it up a long +way. Finally, we decided to wait till dawn +and then go along and see what we could find.</p> + +<p>As soon as it began to get light next morning, +August 23rd, we were up; our excitement +was increased by seeing a small boat +moored a little way from the beach. This +had mast and sail and was just the size of +boat we were hoping for. We crept quietly +down to a track along the shingle. Sweet +was in front and reported seeing a peasant +near the first house. We walked quickly +on finding that there were rather more tumble-down +houses than we had expected. However, +it was too early for people to be about +and there seemed no reason to suspect danger. +We were hurrying on towards the boat we +had seen, when we passed the end of a tumble-down +boat-house and, to our dismay, found a<a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a> +Turkish sentry standing just inside. He +stopped Sweet, while we three hurried on a +little further. Sweet told him we were Germans +bound for Samsun, the next port along +the coast. However, the old man insisted +on telling his chaoush or sergeant. Meanwhile +Sweet had rejoined us, but there was no +chance of getting away, as by this time three +or four others of the guard had turned out. +The sergeant had us brought back to the +guard-house, where the next scene of the +pantomime began. Sweet, as had been previously +arranged, was to play the part of a +German officer, while we three were orderlies. +Accordingly, we carried his pack for him, +jumped up and down and saluted and, generally, +behaved in a manner calculated to show +our subservience. Meanwhile, the chaoush +who was in charge of the guard at this place—a +village called Kusafet—was evidently not +at all sure of his ground, and suggested we +should go with him to Jerse. We replied +we were going in the opposite direction, and +wanted a boat with which to reach Samsun. +The boat which had been moored off the +beach had now been brought to shore and +was landing some stores for the guard. We +spoke to the skipper of this boat and, finding +he came from Trebizond and knew a little<a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a> +English, hoped he would be amenable to +helping us. Our idea was that having got +on board for Samsun we could persuade him +for a consideration to take us on to Trebizond, +which was in Russian hands.</p> + +<p>He went upstairs to confer with the chaoush, +but whether he gave us away or not we were +never quite sure. He came down advising us +to go to Jerse and see the commandant there. +This man, he assured us, knew no English or +German, and was very ignorant and would +believe our story. The chaoush wanted to +make us march to Jerse, but we refused +and, eventually, set off in the boat under the +escort of the chaoush and two other armed +soldiers. Before leaving we had obtained +some chapatties, and a little raw fish which +was better eating than we had expected. On +the way we suggested to the skipper that with +the help of the crew we could easily overpower +the guard and then set sail east; but he would +not agree, and with the probability of the crew +of five joining the guard we should have stood +no chance at all. Hugging the coast, we reached +Jerse in two hours, finding a small Turkish +town built on a slight promontory. On the +way, we passed the wooded hill we had talked +about so often the day before. We should +have been quite safe on this hill and, what<a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a> +was more, should have seen two or three +boats in which we could probably have got +away without much trouble. On reaching +Jerse we found ourselves moored beside a +small patrol boat of the Turkish navy, one +of the crew of which said openly we were +English. However, Sweet had gone ashore +with the chaoush, and we were left hoping for +the best, but fearing the game was up. Half +an hour later we were summoned to join +Sweet, and were conducted with him to a +police station. Here Tip was made to +speak on the 'phone to a German officer at +Sinope. He could think of nothing to say but +"Sprechen sie Deutsch," to which the Teuton +eagerly responded at the other end. After +shouting this down the 'phone several times +Tip threw down the receiver, declaring it was +out of order! Another man coming into the +station declared he had seen two of us at +Kastamuni. We were then taken to the +commandant of the town and agreed it was +useless to try to bluff any longer, since they +believed us to be English spies and it was only +a matter of getting hold of any German for our +whole story to fall to the ground. We, therefore, +admitted that we had escaped from +Kastamuni, saying we had been so long +prisoners that we wanted to get home. The<a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a> +commandant was one of the best types of +Turkish officer it had been our fortune to meet +and was most polite. We were searched, and +our maps and compasses and diaries taken, +except from K., who managed to smuggle +his map through. My original compass, not +being recognized as such, was not taken.</p> + +<p>Sweet told us that on first landing he had +seen the commandant of the local <i>gendarmerie</i>, +whom he had no difficulty in bluffing, +as the skipper had foretold. Sweet told him +we were on our way to the Caucasus to help +in preparing a coming offensive for the Turks. +He took all this in and Sweet was congratulating +himself that our troubles were over. +After giving Sweet coffee he said, no doubt, +we would now like to be going on our way +to Samsun. Sweet agreed, and they were just +coming back to rejoin us when the Yuzbashi +mentioned that there was a colonel +who was commandant of the town and that +he would probably like to see Sweet before +he left. The fat was then in the fire. Sweet +proffered our passport, but the colonel was +suspicious and a Turkish naval officer whom +he called in confirmed his ideas that we were +British. The colonel told us later that there +were two mistakes in our passport, which +otherwise he evidently thought was quite<a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a> +good. He had our names and had been warned +of our escape some two or three days after +we had left Kastamuni.</p> + +<p>The yuzbashi, finding how thoroughly he +had been bluffed, was now equally frantic +in his wrath. We were said to be going off +that day to Sinope, and he was already preparing +to handcuff us together in pairs. +Luckily, the colonel turned up in time to +prevent this. Most of our money was now +taken and a receipt given to us for it. A little +later we were told we were not going that +day and were given a better room in the +police station. The chaoush was very pleased +with himself and told us he was going to +accompany us to Kastamuni. He, also, it +appeared, had been warned of our escape +and, having passed through Kastamuni recently, +probably suspected us more quickly +than he would otherwise have done. The +colonel came in to see us, and endeavoured +to find out as much as he could from us as to +which way we had come and how we had got +food, but we told him very little. We got +some food sent in and finally lay down on the +floor for the night. Tip was now suffering +again from his previous complaint, and we +insisted that a doctor should be brought. +However, no one was forthcoming. Next<a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a> +morning we were allowed to go into the bazaar +to buy a few things needful, and on our return +were told to get ready to march at once. A +small donkey was brought up and on this we +loaded our kit.</p> + +<p>Tip was still feeling very poorly and had +a bad time on the march. After some +eight miles, mostly along by the sea, we +reached some Turkish barracks which had +evidently been only recently put up. They +were wooden buildings, but, fortunately, +cleaner than might have been expected. We +were put into a small corner room in the +officers' quarters and were much amused to +find that no less than three sentries were +posted to guard us; one outside the door, +and one outside each window.</p> + +<p>The officers consisted of a fat and surly +yuzbashi and an Arab lieutenant, a huge man +who was most genial and friendly. He told +us his home was near Mosul, but he refused +to believe that the British were in Bagdad and +evidently thought we were trying to bluff +him, the ignorance pervading all classes in +Turkey as to what is happening in the outside +world being colossal.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">RESCUED</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>W</span></span><span class="firstwords">e</span> +had several visits from the Arab +officers, and they very kindly gave us +a share of their food, which consisted +chiefly of a vegetable stew. The following +morning we were given a bread ration for +five days and told to get ready at once. +Tip was not fit to move, but they would not +listen to us and dragged him out. We found +a small pony had been brought, so Tip +mounted this and we set off with a guard of +a sergeant and eight privates; our former +friend, the chaoush from Kusafet, was not +coming with us after all and in his place we +had a truculent quick-tempered fellow who +looked as if he would be anything but an +agreeable companion on the march. The men +were evidently in the best of spirits, a visit +to Kastamuni being a great event for them. +In addition, they carried a good deal of +tobacco, which they doubtless expected to sell +again at a large profit on arrival. A great<a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a> +deal of tobacco is grown in the coast districts, +more particularly near Samsun. We +set off at a very easy pace and after passing +the German wireless station soon had a halt. +The guard had two donkeys which carried +their kit, but the chaoush would not hear +of us putting our packs on them as well. +After another halt in a village, we reached a +caravanserai early in the afternoon, where +the guard prepared their food, the man who +owned the donkeys acting as cook to the +chaoush. This fellow had not even the disreputable +uniform which the average Turkish +soldier possesses, but was clothed in thin +black stuff. His efforts produced boiled rice +over which a little melted butter was poured. +This was taken to a raised corner where he and +the chaoush proceeded to shovel it into their +mouths from the same bowl, etiquette prescribing +that the two parties should take +spoonfuls strictly in turn. An hour later +we were off again, and began to ascend the +lower slopes of the mountains we had crossed +a few days previously. Now, however, we +were on the so-called main road. It was one +of the worst roads it had been our lot ever +to have seen, and we were truly thankful +we were not travelling in carts. Long stretches +were strewn with blocks of stone, which had<a name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></a> +been, apparently, left there promiscuously +by some contractor who had not finished his +job, like so many others in this country. An +hour or two later, after ascending some little +distance, we stopped for the chaoush to get +his pony shod. This animal he had commandeered +at a village we had passed through, +and now fancied himself to no small extent +as a mounted man. After a long wait the +shoeing was at last accomplished and we set +off once more. To our delight the chaoush +had also procured a second pony, and on this +we were allowed to load our packs. About +eight o'clock we reached a small village, where +we were to spend the night; an empty log +hut was found and a fire made in the large +open hearth. We were given one side of the +chief room while most of the guard slept on +the rest of the floor. With some eggs we had +bought we made a very good supper and, +thanks to the fire, were as comfortable as the +circumstances would allow. We were now +high up and it would have been very cold +to bivouac in the open, as we must have been +surrounded by clouds during the night. +Before going off to sleep we considered the +chances of escape. There would be little +chance after another day or two when we +had got further from the sea and were halting<a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a> +in larger villages, so that the present night +seemed the only practical time, should opportunity +offer. However, we soon came +to the conclusion that it was quite impossible, +as not only was there a sentry in the +narrow passage outside the door but one or +two of the askars in our room were told to +keep awake in turns. The only exit was the +door, to reach which we should have to walk +over several of our guard.</p> + +<p>First thing in the morning, August 27th, +we were off again up the road. It was a +glorious day and nothing happened beyond +the usual halts every hour or so. We discussed +our escapade once more, again deciding +we had had a good run for our money, but +that we had not been cautious enough when +we did reach the coast. We went over +afresh the various routes possible and alterations +in plans which we would have adopted +with the experience now gained. It was about +nine o'clock and we had been on the march +fully two hours when suddenly with a cry of +"Askar" shots rang out from the nearside +of the road. For a moment we were too +startled to know what to make of it. Then +K. and I made a dive down the "khud" +side, as the open road seemed anything but +the best place to stay in. The first shot had<a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a> +bowled over the man in black who was riding +a donkey in front. We had been told so +much at Kastamuni about the bandits infesting +the hills that we quite thought we might +have fallen amongst a party of them and that +to be taken and held to ransom would be a +worse fate than returning for a few months +to the civil prison at Kastamuni or Angora.</p> + +<p>On going a little way down the hill I saw +a man whom I at first thought to be the +chaoush, but as he beckoned to me saying +"Venez, venez," I saw that this was one of +the new arrivals. He wanted me to go off +down the hill with him, but after descending +a little way I explained there were other +officers on the road and I must go back to +them. In the meantime, he was very voluble +and excited, but I could not gather who they +were or what had brought them. On arriving +back on the road I found K. and Tip; the +fighting was now over, and three of the brigands +were collecting the askars' rifles and +ammunition. The guard had put up no +show at all and the nine of them were all disarmed +and standing like sheep within two +minutes, thanks almost entirely to the efforts +of the three now collecting their arms, since +my friend had been too far down the bank +to have done much firing himself. The<a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a> +question now was whether we were to go with +these fellows. K. was all for going off at +once, but Tip and I hesitated as to the position +we should be in, if caught again by the +Turks before getting away. Our new friends +would, of course, have been shot as outlaws, +and we should very likely have shared the +same fate. We took them aside and at length +made out that they were adherents of the old +Turk party and had no use whatever for +Enver and his Government. They said they +had come specially to rescue us, and had a +boat ready to put off for either Trebizond +of Sevastopol in three or four days' time. +After realizing this, a process which took +some time, as our knowledge of the language +was very sketchy, we decided to throw in our +fortunes with our new friends, as it seemed a +heaven-sent chance of getting out of the +country and almost too good to be true. +We had seen nothing of Sweet since the firing +started and now began to shout for him and +search on each side of the road. Our new +friends set the old guard on to look for him, +but not a sign of him could we see and no +response came to our calls. After searching +and shouting for an hour, we finally had to +give it up, and leaving the guard in the road +set off with our new acquaintances, whom we<a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a> +will now style the "akhardash"—or comrades—as +that was the name they always used for +themselves and their supporters. As far as +we could see, Sweet must have dashed away +when the first shots rang out, thinking no +doubt that this was a splendid opportunity +of getting free again. It was very hard luck +for him, especially as he had all along been one +of the keenest and most energetic of the party. +The old guard watched us go without emotion; +they were apparently used to surprises of +this sort. The chaoush remarked that we +should now go to our homes, and we often +wondered what happened to him when he got +back to the barracks and reported.</p> + +<a name="escape"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/escape_map_small.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="445"> +<p class="caption">MAP (REDUCED) SHOWING ROUTE OF ESCAPE</p> +<p class="center"><a href="images/escape_map.jpg">Larger Version of Map</a></p> +</div> + + +<p>He would be sure to say his party had been +greatly outnumbered and were only disarmed +after a prolonged resistance, but, nevertheless, +he was probably reduced to a private. Besides +the man in black who had been killed, +two of the others had been wounded. Considering +the rate at which the akhardash +started firing, at a range of only twenty yards +or so, the wonder is they did not hit many +more; probably after inflicting a few casualties +to start with they afterwards fired high +on purpose. The guard, beyond firing one +or two shots, seemed to have made no resistance +at all. They were completely surprised<a name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></a> +and totally unready for such an occurrence. +Tip had an unenviable experience. He was +riding his pony when the shooting began and +had our rucksacks festooned round his saddle +and over his legs so that he could not dismount +in a hurry and found himself in a helpless +position in a small storm of bullets. Finally, +he was dragged to the ground by the tallest +of the akhardash, who proceeded to kiss him +with much fervour! This man, whose name +was Musa, became our great friend. He was +a tall lithe fellow and was always ready to +do everything he possibly could for our comfort +during the following weeks. The leader, +whom we always rather suspected of having +played the part of the Duke of Plaza Toro in +the actual scrap, was one Bihgar Bey, a most +evil-looking gentleman. In fact none of the +four at the time we first saw them presented +an appearance likely to inspire any confidence, +but resembled more the types one sees portrayed +as those of the greatest criminals. +Bihgar Bey, we learnt later, was one of a +dozen implicated in the murder of Mahomed +Shevket Pasha<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> some years previously, but +as he alone when caught was not in possession +of arms his sentence was only one of transportation, +while all the others were put to death.<a name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a> +The other two were Keor, an old Armenian +who looked as if he had led a very hard life, +and Kiarmil, a little man who had been a +sergeant-major in the Turkish forces during +the late Balkan war. Their looks, however, +entirely belied them, as will be seen from our +subsequent experiences, when on all occasions +they went out of their way to lessen the hardships +of our life in the woods. During the +following days we found that they had been +able to pay a certain sum yearly to avoid +military service up to a few months previously, +when all such privileges had been cancelled. +They had then been forced either +to serve or become outlaws, and had chosen +the latter alternative. After living in the +woods supported by more law-abiding friends, +of whom they seemed to have a great number +dotted about the country, they had decided +to leave for Russia, and made arrangements +with a man in Sinope to embark in his boat +when all their party had been gathered and all +arrangements completed. In the meantime, +a gendarme at Sinope, who was also of their +political views, had given them news of our +recapture and march back to Kastamuni. +They determined thereupon to effect our +rescue, and the evening before had made a +forced march of over twenty miles. At first,<a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a> +we could not understand why they had taken +on such an enterprise, seeing that it could +only hinder their own plans for getting away, +and would probably make it much more +difficult for them to leave at all, as the +Turkish authorities would be sure to take a +good deal of trouble to prevent our getting +out of the country; but they seemed to have +a profound contempt for any number of +gendarmes and no doubt considered we should +form a good introduction for them to Russia. +Whatever their reasons, it was a very plucky +act for four of them to take on a guard of +nine, although at the time when the man +in black was bowled over it seemed a +horribly cold-blooded business.</p> + + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3" class="fnlabel">[3]</a> Grand Vizier, 1913.</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">IN HIDING WITH THE TURKS</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>T</span></span><span class="firstwords">hroughout</span> +the following weeks +our new friends did all they could +to make us as comfortable as circumstances +would permit, and we can never +be sufficiently grateful to them for thus +enabling us to leave captivity and reach home. +They would never listen to any offers of payment, +saying they did not wish to be taken +for men who had rescued us for money.</p> + +<p>Going back to the morning of our first +acquaintance, we left the guard standing +in the road while we, with all their ammunition +and four of their rifles, retraced our steps +along the road towards the sea and then +branched off down a side track, finding a secure +hiding-place in a thick wood about a mile +further on. We thought it might be as well +to impress the guard with the idea that we +had been taken off by the "brigands" against +our will, and therefore got them to tie our +hands together and behaved as if we did not<a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a> +want to go with them at all. When out of +sight, we undid the cords and marched on +again as really free men, Bihgar Bey continually +cheering us by saying, "Allons, +enfants de la patrie," which, considering +his position as an outlaw, was distinctly +humorous. It was wonderful the inspiring +effect the change from captivity had upon +<a name="tn_png_199"></a><!--TN: Period removed after "Tip"-->Tip, who had been so seedy during the last +few days; now he began to recover rapidly +and succeeded in marching all the following +night without any ill effects.</p> + +<p>We had taken Sweet's kit with us, thinking +we might meet him and that in any case it +would be of no use to leave it with the guard. +After sorting it out, we took one or two +articles each and made our rescuers some small +presents from the remainder. Bihgar and +Kiarmil went off to fill our water-bottles and +returned a little while later, after announcing +their approach by clapping their hands. This +we found was the method always adopted +by the akhardash when meeting each other +in woods or by night.</p> + +<p>It was arranged that two of them would +accompany us down at nightfall to a secure +hiding-place, while the other two were to go +in the opposite direction to meet friends from +Boiabad who were also joining the party and,<a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a> +as far as we could make out, were bringing a +good deal of money with them. In the end, +we set off about half-past seven under the +guidance of Keor, the old Armenian, while +the other three set off again towards Boiabad. +They had told us that we should reach our +hiding-place in three hours, Bihgar Bey making +our mouths water by describing it as a +place of milk and honey, where we would +be provided with meat, butter, eggs and cheese, +all of which since we left Kastamuni had +seemed the greatest luxuries.</p> + +<p>Keor started off at a trot down a path +through the wood. He was carrying his own +rifle and one of our late guard's weapons, as +well as four bandoliers full of ammunition +and a bag on his back. We three each carried +a rifle, but hoped there would be no more +cold-blooded shooting of the type that had +effected our rescue. Keor's pace must have +been about five miles an hour, and we soon +had to request him to go slower, as I had a +dicky knee which would be likely to give +trouble going downhill at a trot over a bad +path with daylight almost gone. Our packs +with some of Sweet's kit were now a good +weight, so that with a rifle in addition we +were well loaded. After being told that we +should reach our goal in three hours we felt<a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a> +fairly confident of attaining it in five, especially +as we kept up a good pace and the recognized +halts were not observed. Keor several +times missed his way, but always found it +in the end. After a couple of hours we reached +a river and wended our weary way down its +bed, first on one side, then crossing to the +other side and then back again. There +was no path and we floundered along amongst +the boulders in the darkness. Whenever we +halted, which was not often, Keor always +said it was now only one hour's march +further.</p> + +<p>About 3 a.m. we were going along a rough +track beside the river bed when suddenly +my bad knee gave way and I took a complete +toss, rifle and pack going all over the place. +There was nothing for it but to go on, so +tying up the knee with a puttee, I hobbled +on—the others nobly helping me by carrying +my rifle. We were now all pretty well done +and signs of dawn began to show in the east. +Keor was very anxious to get in, saying there +would be a great many gendarmes hereabouts +the following day. At length we left the +river, climbed a small rise, and passed close +to some cottages, where the usual dogs soon +started a chorus. This led to one or two +shots being fired, probably with the idea of<a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a> +scaring off robbers, but, apparently, we were +not actually seen. Finally, we dragged ourselves +up a steep track, and got to ground in +a thick copse. We were worn out; it was +now a quarter-past five and we had done +nine and a quarter hours instead of the three +we had been promised. Still, we were free—and +nothing else mattered. We put on what +extra garments we had and were very soon +asleep.</p> + +<p>A few hours later Keor disappeared and +returned shortly afterwards with what seemed +to us a splendid breakfast: fried eggs, chapatties +and yoghourt. <a name="tn_png_202"></a><!--TN: "A pparently" changed to "Apparently"-->Apparently, we were close to +the house of an akhardash, from whom all +this had been procured. Although some +children came near us during the day, we were +not discovered, and remained quietly where +we were till nightfall. Then we tramped off +once more, but only to halt at a very short +distance further on under some trees near +a house, which was probably the one our +breakfast had come from. Here we were +met by a boy of fifteen, by name Aziz, who +came to us through the trees with a loaded +rifle slung over his shoulder. Our friends +always carried their rifles with a round in the +chamber, but with the bolt not pushed home. +We were continually expecting some accident<a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a> +to happen from this practice, but luckily +nothing did.</p> + +<p>Of the rifles belonging to our four rescuers, +two were short Lee-Enfields which had been +captured on the Gallipoli peninsula, and had +found their way to the bazaar in Constantinople, +where they had been retailed for £T.10 +or nine pounds sterling: now, however, they +assured us that the price had gone up to +£T.20. Musa had a Turkish Mauser, made in +Germany, while Keor possessed a Russian +rifle. Aziz met us with an old Greek weapon, +but much to his delight was given one of the +rifles which had belonged to our guard. He +was a very bright boy, and intensely excited +and jubilant over our rescue and the discomfiture +of the guard. In every case, the +muzzle piece was removed so as to lighten +the weapon, a bayonet, apparently, not being +considered worth carrying when fighting gendarmes +in the mountains. In addition to +their rifles, some of our friends carried Caucasian +daggers. These are straight, with a +very fine sharp point and double-edged blade +about fifteen inches long. They were used +for cutting brushwood, rigging up shelters +in the woods, killing sheep, or chopping up +meat, as required. Whenever we halted, +Keor used to spend much loving care over<a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a> +his bandoliers of ammunition, seeing that +each round was clean and not too loose in its +leather loop.</p> + +<p>After a few minutes under the trees a woman +brought us a frugal supper, after which we set +off accompanied by Aziz to find a hiding-place +for the following day. A short distance +brought us to a small Turkish house where a +good deal of conversation took place between +Keor, Aziz and the owner. Finally, we were +taken into a maize-field and camped under +a tree in the centre. The maize was seven +or eight feet in height, so that we were well +concealed. Our host brought us some bedding, +consisting of a couple of old mattresses +and quilts. During the following days we +had a pretty thorough experience of the +delights of such bedding, and came to the +conclusion in the end that we should have +been happier without any. However, in the +present case it was not so bad and we had +a comparatively undisturbed night. In the +morning food was brought us by our host, +which consisted mostly of a vegetable stew +and coarse bread. The day was uneventful.</p> + +<p>We spent another night in this field and +moved on once more the following evening. +Keor declared it would only take us half an +hour and I trusted it might not be far, as my<a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a> +knee was not much better yet. It amused +us to think what a trio of crocks we seemed +to be. Tip had been ill off and on most of +the time since we left Kastamuni. K. had +been very unwell that day and suffered a good +deal on account of his short sight; and I +was dead lame. A few minutes after starting +we met another of the akhardash, a very +good fellow named Kasim, and conversed +with him for a few minutes in the shade of a +corn stack before proceeding.</p> + +<p>It was a fine moonlight night, and we again +passed the German wireless station, which was +now below us and between us and the sea. +In not more than an hour, we got close to the +place appointed and after a long wait were +conducted to a spot which seemed very secure, +as it was in the centre of a thick copse with no +houses near. Another youth turned up here +and, apparently, was the son of our new host. +For the next three days we stayed here, this +boy bringing us food twice a day and telling +Keor all the local news. It was now we heard +that Sweet had been retaken or had had to +give himself up and was being marched back +to Kastamuni. Later when Bihgar Bey and +the others rejoined us they declared that +Sweet had gone back with an escort of no less +than 60 gendarmes. The idea of such a<a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a> +number being necessary tickled them immensely +and they evidently considered it a +great compliment to the disturbance they had +caused, though they were genuinely sorry for +Sweet and would have made an effort to +rescue him had it been possible.</p> + +<p>Our menu was rendered more attractive +now by our being able to get a little butter and +some fruit. As we had to keep still all day, +there was little to do except speculate as to the +composition of the next meal, and with having +only two meals a day there was a considerable +interval between these events. K. spent +some time in making up his diary and checking +dates. Our friends could never make out +what he was writing about, and would say, +"Here there are trees and mountains but +whatever can a man find to write about?" +Indeed, they never could make K. out very +well. Tip was far the most popular; for one +thing the fact that he was an aviator roused +their imagination, and in addition his good +humour under all circumstances made him +a great favourite. They always addressed +him as Kaptan, but only called K. and me, +by our surnames. The want of tobacco +in the early days had not affected K. and me, +as we did not smoke, but Tip had had to +go very short; now, however, the akhardash<a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a> +seemed to have inexhaustible supplies and +were always ready to roll cigarettes for Tip—an +art which he never succeeded in mastering. +One day Keor informed us that some of +the akhardash including Aziz had raided the +German wireless station the night before, +killing all the Germans and taking a lot of +money. This was absolutely untrue, but he +seemed to believe it and had evidently been +told the story by the boy bringing our food.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">CONTINUED DELAYS</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>O</span></span><span class="firstwords">n</span> +the afternoon of September 2nd, +the third day in this wood, Bihgar Bey +and Musa arrived, and announced that +the friends from Boiabad had also come and +that we should move on towards the sea. +One of the new-comers had arrived with them +at our lair, this being a stout fellow whom we +always referred to as the Fat Boy: he was +in fact the only pure Turk amongst them, +the others all being of Circassian extraction. +As it grew dark we moved off picking up +some others of the akhardash shortly afterwards, +and took a line which would bring us +towards the coast while at the same time +approaching Sinope. After some hours, it +became evident that they were not very sure +of the way, with the result that in the early +hours of the morning they decided to stop +where they were and reach the appointed +place the following evening. At dawn a +countryman stumbled upon a sentry guarding<a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a> +a path near which we lay. He was thoroughly +scared and was allowed to go, after having +evidently sworn never to tell of anything he +had seen.</p> + +<p>As morning dawned, rain came on and we +moved under some bigger trees, where Keor +very soon had a shelter rigged up, cutting +down ash saplings with a dagger and using +our sail as a cover. It was not a very +efficient protection, but better than nothing +and luckily on this occasion the rain did not +last long. Next evening, under the guidance +of a new comrade, we were conducted a little +way further, finally halting in a maize-field +until such time as some unwelcome guests +had left our new host. This was an old Greek +as poor as he was dirty, but he had evidently +agreed to hide us until the boat was ready and +we were much indebted to him. Finally, +the Turkish visitors left the old man and he +came to meet us. The first thing he did was +to go off with one of the akhardash and procure +a sheep for us. We had not tasted any +meat for about ten days, and looked with +great interest at the fine animal now <a name="tn_png_209"></a><!--TN: "pro cured" changed to "procured"-->procured. +The old man then brought us bedding, +and we are not likely ever to forget it. We +remained in his care for nearly a week, and +every day seemed to increase the interest<a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a> +which these mattresses took in us. At daylight, +the old man cleared a space for us in +a neighbouring thicket, and we moved in +there. All the others except Bihgar departed, +saying they were going to prepare food for +the voyage. Left alone with Bihgar the time +hung somewhat heavily. He looked after +us like a father and by our calling him this +he was highly delighted. He played picquet +with Tip, and did his best to learn a little +English. The old Greek sent a messenger +into Sinope for us, and we thus got hold of a +few small note books and some playing cards, +which helped to pass the time.</p> + +<a name="bihgar_bey"></a><div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/bighar_bey.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="433" height="700"> +<p class="caption"><a name="tn_png_210a"></a><!--TN: "Bighar" changed to "Bihgar"-->BIHGAR BEY</p></div> + + +<p>After a few days in our first clearing, we +moved to another, a short distance off, this +being considered rather safer. There were a +good many houses round about and people +passed by a path running within 50 yards of +where we lay, so that we had to keep very +quiet. After three or four days here we began +to get a little impatient, Bihgar Bey being +somewhat indefinite; but at last one night, +after going off at dark to meet some of the +others, he came back and woke us up at midnight +and told us to hurry up, as we were off. +We hoped we might get right down to the coast +<a name="tn_png_210"></a><!--TN: "andfind" changed to "and find"-->and find the boat ready, but this was not to be. +After a second meeting under the tree in the<a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a> +maize-field and a farewell to the old Greek, +we set off down a lane and past some houses +where the inevitable dog was soon aroused. +However, no one came out and we got out to +a field near the main road, where, after a +wait of an hour, we were met by Kiarmil, +whom we had not seen since the first day. +At this point, the others had also met us and +had with them a pony laden with bread and +a little cheese, which were to be our rations +on the voyage. The party now consisted +of twelve of the akhardash and a boy with +the pony, the latter not intending to leave +the country with us.</p> + +<p>We learnt that they had had a long fight +with the gendarmes the day before, one being +killed on each side. Apparently, the gendarmes +had rounded them up in a village +where they were preparing the food which they +had now brought. There were, they said, +80 gendarmes, whereas they had only +eight! Anyhow, our guide of a few nights +before, a swarthy, powerful looking man, had +been killed, but in the end they had succeeded +in getting away from the gendarmes or driving +them off. The story, naturally, lost nothing +in the telling and we never quite knew what +to believe. At first, from their accounts, it +sounded as if they had deliberately invited<a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a> +a scrap, and it was some time before we +found out that they had been almost surrounded. +They also brought the news that +hundreds of gendarmes were being sent to +Sinope from Kastamuni, but as there were +never many at Kastamuni we were somewhat +sceptical about this also. Crossing +the main road, we found we were close to the +sea, and a little further on entered a copse +where we spent the rest of the night. At +dawn we went still further in, and sentries +were posted. Meanwhile, the pony boy had +gone off on his steed to Sinope to interview +the boatman, and we waited till the afternoon, +hoping that we might hear the boat +was coming to pick us up that night. Our +hopes were dashed again when the boy returned +with the news that the boat and its +proprietor were not in Sinope, but had gone +round the coast to the next port to the west.</p> + +<p>The akhardash decided it was too risky +to stay where we were and, therefore, we +moved again at nightfall. After following +the main road a little way on towards Sinope +we left it, climbing slowly and going farther +away from the sea. After some hours they +found that they had missed the way again, +although we were close to our destination, +which was the inevitable akhardash's house.<a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a> +Making across some fields and hedges, we +gained a lane, but soon had to leave this, +as carts were heard coming along. Luckily, +Turkish carts make their presence known a +long way off by their perpetual creaking, so +that we were all safely under cover by the +time they passed. A certain amount of +misunderstanding now arose, Bihgar not seeing +eye to eye with another of the akhardash +who knew best our whereabouts, with the +result that we nearly split up into two or +more groups in the darkness.</p> + +<p>However, we eventually all got together +again, and reached the house of our new host +or rather the field surrounding it. He came +to meet us and escorted us to a wood close by. +Here we slept till dawn and then moved +farther into the trees. This old man was +evidently a more influential "comrade" +than most of those we had met so far. His +house was a good deal larger than the average +and he was treated with great respect. Another +more humble supporter also appeared, +and between the two we were provided with +food. Late in the day, the old man departed +for Sinope, and our hopes again ran high +that he would be successful in arranging for +the boat. Disappointment was once more +in store for us on his return about six o'clock.<a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a> +The leading three or four conferred apart +with him, and it was not until afterwards that +we were told that the Turks were so bent on +preventing us leaving the country that they +had had all boats pulled up, masts and sails +taken out and guarded, and that no boat was +allowed to put to sea from Sinope to eastwards +of Kusafet, the place where we had +been recaptured. The akhardash said that, +this being the case, we must try elsewhere, +and they proposed to march off towards +Iyenjak, a little town about 30 miles +westwards, where the restrictions imposed +at Sinope would probably not be in force and +where they hoped to get another boat. They +said if this failed they would then go east towards +Samsun, a distance of fully 100 miles +across rough mountainous country.</p> + +<p>We were beginning to wonder if they ever +would get afloat. On August 27th, when +they had rescued us, they declared everything +would be ready in three or four days. +It was now September and our early sailing +seemed more unlikely than ever. In addition +to this our boots were nearly worn out, and +physically we were not in particularly good +condition. It looked as if they would have a +much better chance of getting off without us, +so we decided to offer to go off on our own and<a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a> +leave them free. We explained that it was a +hanging matter for them if caught, whereas +it only meant a few months in prison for us. +They realized this only too clearly, but would +not hear of our leaving them for an instant, +and declared they would get a boat, however +much it might cost.</p> + +<p>Kiarmil, upon whose person all the wealth +of the party had been concealed in various +places when it was thought we were about to +embark, now began to disgorge his treasure +and divide it up again. Musa appeared to be +by far the richest of the party and seemed +to be quite a country gentleman. He told +us he would lose his house, cattle and land +worth thousands of pounds. These would +all be confiscated by the Turkish authorities, +but he confidently hoped with the next change +of Government to return to the country and +get it all back again with a little more +besides. Some of the others were in a similar +situation in a lesser degree. They had succeeded +in changing most of their money into +Russian notes which had somehow found +their way into Sinope and Jerse, and these +transactions had delayed their preparations +a good deal.</p> + +<p>After a supper which included a little meat +and was therefore noteworthy in itself, we set<a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a> +off again on the march, but found we had left +behind one of our party who had had fever. +At the start, we made good progress along a +road, but then turned off to follow a river +down the valley. To find the track was not +always easy. Many fences had to be partially +demolished to allow the pony to get through, +and no effort was ever made to repair the +damage or conceal our tracks. After crossing +a good deal of cultivated land, we reached +the river bed and began the type of march +we knew so well, crossing continually from +one side to the other, stumbling along over +boulders and rocks. About three o'clock +in the morning, we reached a thicket in a +lonely part of the valley where the sides +had narrowed considerably. They decided +to halt here till the next night, much to our +relief. Cross-country marching by night is +never a very easy mode of progression, but +when an attempt is made to use a stony river +bed as a road it becomes a prolonged torture.</p> + +<p>No incident marked the following day, and +just before dark we were off once more. As +dawn was breaking we reached the neighbourhood +of yet another akhardash's house +and went into hiding in thick brushwood +which was soaking with dew. Just as we +had got settled down, Bihgar for some reason<a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a> +decided that we three would be safer elsewhere, +and much to our disgust hustled us +off to an equally wet spot in a thicket on the +opposite side of the road. He was always +prone to worry and fuss a great deal more +than the others, and later on in the day, in +a rash moment, I expostulated with him, +going through a little pantomime to show how +he had acted in the morning. The effect +was startling and a great deal more than I had +bargained for. He began by fervently kissing +my hand, declaring he was our servant and +that everything he did was for our benefit. +I hastened to stop the flood of protest and +affection which I had unwittingly let loose, +but it was some time before he was calm again.</p> + +<p>That evening we moved on, having been +fed during the day by the local akhardash. +We were now under the command of the +fellow we termed the Fat Boy, Bihgar having +gone off with some of the others to interview +another friend regarding a boat. This man +never worried at all, and would shout to men +on guard over the crops as if he were a countryman +returning home late. The fires all +over the countryside at night in this district +were used for scaring wild pig from the maize +and other crops. In nearly every field would +be a small perch for a man, who would keep<a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a> +a blaze going beside him and make various +noises to scare off the intruders. Most of +them had old guns of some sort and frequently +a shot would be heard. The subject of pig +formed a perpetual joke; the akhardash, as +Mussulmans, declaring it was not good to eat, +whereas we always offered to show them how +good it was if they would bring us one. Another +source of never-ending merriment was +the prophecy that Tip would be taken prisoner +when flying in France and again be sent to +Kastamuni.</p> + +<p>Towards midnight we reached a big wood +and, under the guidance of a new supporter, +found a sheltered spot beneath lofty trees. +The character of the country had altered a +good deal since we had reached the coast. +Here the rainfall was evidently a great deal +heavier than it was at Kastamuni and the +climate milder, with the result that all sorts +of trees abounded and the vegetation was +much thicker. This was the first spot considered +safe enough by our friends for a fire +and they soon had a fine blaze going. We +lay down in the warmth and were quickly +asleep. Our comfort was short-lived, however, +as it began to rain heavily. A small +oil silk sheet which had belonged to Sweet +kept me dry for a time, but it soon became<a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a> +necessary to move, as the fire had nearly gone +out and another had been started further +away. Tip evinced a wonderful power of +being able to sleep when lying in a puddle +and soaked through. The akhardash were +experts at fire-lighting, under all circumstances, +and skilfully arranged the logs to +protect the inside of the blaze from the rain.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we moved on under the +guidance of two sturdy lads, one of whom with +the aid of an axe cut a way for us through +the brushwood and made a track up the steep +hill, along which the pony struggled heroically. +On reaching higher ground we found +a path and followed this a little further to a +water trough, near which we camped, another +fire being lighted at once. Our guide of the +night before turned out to be a Turkish +soldier on leave, but he showed little surprise +on finding out who we were. The other +lads had also been in the Army and, as far +as we could make out, had been sent to their +homes on account of the shortage of rations in +Constantinople. They bore us no ill will and +evidently thought that the Gallipoli campaign +showed them to be the better soldiers of the two. +They knew nothing about our having taken +Bagdad and were quite ignorant of all other +war news. The following day was fine at<a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a> +intervals, generally just long enough to allow +of our drying our clothes before it began again. +Our diet had been limited to coarse Turkish +bread, of a most indigestible and half-baked +variety, with potatoes and meat which +we cooked by toasting small pieces on long +sticks; but now the bread ran out and for +two days we lived almost entirely on potatoes. +The erstwhile soldiers also brought us a +number of small pears. For washing we had +the trough, but while the rain continued +and for some time after each shower a small +stream flowed down beside our camp.</p> + +<p>The next event of interest was the arrival +of a visitor who brought with him a sheep. +We were told that this man had been employed +in the <i>gendarmerie</i>, but was now also leaving +for Russia and intended to sail in ten days' +time. He suddenly wanted our party to +postpone their departure, so that he might +join us, but this was not agreed to. To show +his good faith, he had brought the sheep as +a present and no time was lost in turning it +into mutton. A long pole was cut and supported +horizontally on two Y pieces driven +into the ground beside the fire. The sheep's +carcase was scientifically balanced and tied +to the pole and the roasting process then +began, the pole being slowly turned in the<a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a> +supports. We made use of our canteens +and anything else we could get hold of to +catch the dripping: butter had been scarce +and any substitute was greatly in demand. +Our experience in this connection was that +coarse indigestible bread became much less +harmful when any butter could be had to eat +with it.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">THREE DAYS ON THE BLACK SEA</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>T</span></span><span class="firstwords">here</span> +had been a certain amount of +going and coming amongst the +akhardash during the days we spent +in this wood, but on September 19th Bihgar +Bey arrived and declared everything was +arranged. A boat said to be quite new had +been purchased for 400 liras. This sum had +been paid in hard cash, gold and silver, a +fact of more interest than might appear since +at this time not a single coin of any description +was to be seen in the bazaars in Turkey. +Notes had been issued down to 1 piastre +and below this postage stamps were used. +We again offered to contribute a share to the +cost of the boat, but they would not hear +of it. Nearly all of them had some gold +coins, English sovereigns being as numerous +as Turkish lira pieces. The following day, +September 20th, our gendarme friend again +appeared, bringing another sheep, which was +cooked without delay in the same manner as<a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a> +the first. We were to leave that evening at +six o'clock, go down to the coast and embark +the following evening. At last everything +seemed to have been definitely arranged and +our spirits rose accordingly.</p> + +<p>A dark night march followed over some +bad going and as we got lower down we +entered the inevitable river bed. This lasted +for an hour only and we then climbed a hill +and found ourselves in a small copse immediately +above the sea.</p> + +<p>Since our recapture at the coast we +reckoned we had covered about 150 miles, +while our trek from Kastamuni to the coast +must have been about 200 miles.</p> + +<p>In the morning the pony boy was sent along +to interview the boat owner, and on his return +we were told the boat was to come along at +dark and we were to embark at eleven o'clock. +The day passed uneventfully, and there was +nothing to be done but to lie still and hope +that no misfortune would upset the scheme +at the last moment. On these occasions the +akhardash posted one or more sentries round +our hiding-place and great care was taken to +make no noise. As it grew dark Bihgar +told us to go to sleep and said he would +awaken us when the boat came. No sign of +the boat had been seen and they were evidently<a name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></a> +much worried. It looked as if even now something +had gone wrong. The pony boy was +despatched again, and returned hours later +to say that the boat had left as arranged.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile, we had gone to sleep and did +not wake until dawn. An awful presentiment +seized us that another failure had occurred. +However, as it grew light, the sentries who +had not seen the boat the night before discovered +it a quarter of a mile away across a +stream with a fire lit on the beach above it. +This had, apparently, been the signal, but +for some reason had not been seen. No time +was now lost in getting down to the boat. +The pony boy galloped off, presumably to his +home, and we trust never aroused the suspicions +of the authorities. The sacks containing +the bread for the voyage were carried +down and put on board, and a kerosine tin +and keg from the boat taken to the stream +to provide the water supply. Meanwhile, +others had been ballasting the boat with +boulders from the beach. Just as the water +was being brought back to the boat an old +sentry emerged from a tumble-down house +on the beach, which our friends had, apparently, +thought to be deserted. He had scarcely +taken in the situation before he was disarmed +and tied up near the house. His Mauser<a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a> +rifle and ammunition were all taken from +him, and in exchange he was left with an old +Greek rifle, but without a round to put in it. +The last of the party pushing off the boat +leaped on board, and with thankful hearts +we felt we really were off at last. Our vessel +was the usual type of coastal fishing boat, +with a single big sail. She was about twenty-four +feet long and between two or three tons +displacement, but, whereas we had been expecting +a new boat, we now found a very old +one with mast and rigging that looked anything +but trustworthy, the only sign of any +recent attention being a little fresh paint +here and there. However, we had left Turkey +and had a boat and that was all we wanted. +The question of navigation and handling the +boat we left to start with to the akhardash, +of whom several said they were accustomed +to sailing and knew all about it; but we relied +on Tip's experience to help us along if our +other friends failed.</p> + +<a name="black_sea"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:527px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/black_sea.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="527" height="700"> +<p class="caption">BOAT IN WHICH THE PARTY CROSSED THE BLACK SEA</p></div> + + +<p>The first thing that engaged our attention, +when the boat had been pushed off, was another +vessel of the same type which was very slowly +making its way close in along the coast and +was now quite near to us. The result of a +short palaver amongst the akhardash was that +they rowed quietly up to this boat, not a rifle<a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a> +showing and all except the four rowers sitting +down as quiet as mice. On getting up to the +new-comer they all jumped up and levelled +their rifles at the unfortunate crew in true +pirate style. The crew had no course left +but to accept any orders they were given, +and after a few minutes' violent yelling +and gesticulation their captain and one other +were transferred to our boat, while Musa and +the Fat Boy took their places in the other. +Both boats now sailed off in company. There +was a good breeze from the east and they had +decided to make for Sevastopol; but it soon +became evident that they had little idea of +the direction as a course N.E. was taken, +whereas Sevastopol lay rather to the west of +the point at which we left the coast. Other +diversions, however, put questions of direction +in the background for some time. To start +with, the spar in our boat very nearly broke +in two and had to be lowered and patched +with two small pieces of wood and some old +nails, a makeshift which gave little promise +of being a permanent remedy. This was not +accomplished without a tremendous hullabaloo, +in which Bihgar played a prominent +part. Arms were waving and all seemed to +be yelling instructions to all the others.</p> + +<p>During the process the end of the rope<a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a> +suspending the spar ran through the pulley at +the top of the mast, and it became necessary +to get it back again somehow. The captured +captain of the second boat made a noble effort, +swarming up the mast and holding on to the +shrouds like a monkey; but the boat was +rocking about a good deal and after several +vain attempts he had to give it up. This +necessitated the mast being unshipped and +causing more frantic excitement, especially +when the moment arrived to put it up again. +But, in the end, the feat was successfully +accomplished and both boats sailed off in +company. The breeze was strong and the sea +choppy. Several of the akhardash at once +became <i>hors de combat</i> and remained nearly +motionless at the bottom of the boat for the +next three days. It was a glorious morning, +and, as we watched the coast receding, we +were more than repaid for all the discomfort +of the last few weeks. The Sinope headland +stood out away on our right, and it was not +till late in the afternoon that we were out of +sight of the mountains. A small boat crossed +our course soon after starting, but there were +no signs of any pursuit or commotion on shore. +We wondered what stories of our doings would +reach our friends in Kastamuni, and were +pretty sure that the Turks would tell them<a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a> +we had come to an unhappy end at the hands +of the "brigands."</p> + +<p>We now attempted to get our friends to +steer a course more nearly north instead of +north-east; but they would not do so, as +they were in a terrible state of apprehension +lest they should reach Rumanian territory +occupied by Germans. K. produced our +chart—the largest map of the Black Sea +we had been able to find at Kastamuni—but +it was only some three or four inches +long and coming as it did from an "Ancient +Atlas" showed the Greek colonies in 500 B.C. +and nothing more modern. We were not +sure of the exact position of Sevastopol but +did not allow our friends to know. Whatever +was urged had no effect and the course +remained N.E.</p> + +<a name="black_sea_map"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/black_sea_map_small.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="576"> +<p class="caption">MAP (ACTUAL SIZE) OF THE BLACK SEA</p> +<p class="center"><a href="images/black_sea_map.jpg">Larger Version of Map</a></p> +</div> + + +<p>When dark came on, it soon became evident +that neither our captured mariners nor the +akhardash had the least idea of steering by +the stars; and, finally, about midnight, +Tip discovered we were going about due east. +We thought it was high time we took charge, +and therefore arranged to take watches, one of +us sitting up beside the steersman and keeping +the direction a little west of north. The boat +had no cabin, but the stern was decked across +and we were allowed to keep this to ourselves.<a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a> +All the first day there had been a good breeze, +but it became much feebler at night. With +dawn the wind grew stronger again, and we +were making a good pace in company with +the second boat when, at nine o'clock, signals +of distress from her were noticed. She was +about 300 yards from us at the time +and it was impossible to make out what +had happened. Pandemonium at once reigned +on board and we thought by the commotion +that our companion must be sinking. After +much shouting, our sail was lowered, the oars +got out and the vessel slowly brought up to +our comrade in distress, only to find that the +latter had broken her rudder. Much shouting +now took place on both sides. Any thought +of steering with an oar was never entertained +and they decided to abandon one boat. As +the captured second boat was so much the +better of the two, an attempt was made to +substitute our rudder in her, but without success. +The result was that she was abandoned +after transferring her crew, sail and spar, +and part of her cargo to our boat. We were +now packed very tightly, having a total of +nineteen on board. Some of the ballast had +been thrown overboard, but not enough to +compensate for the additional load. Had +we realized at the time that the second boat<a name="Page_216" id="Page_216"></a> +had a valuable cargo of kerosine, the price +of which was fabulous in Turkey, we should +have made some attempt to salve her or, at +all events, have set her on fire. This information +was not divulged till afterwards, but even +so it is doubtful if she would not have sunk +before drifting ashore or being discovered by +another boat.</p> + +<p>All went well, despite the crowd, until +about midday, when the wind dropped altogether +and rowing had to be resorted to. The +boat was arranged for four oars and it was +in this capacity that the captured crew proved +of the greatest service. They were relieved +at intervals by some of the akhardash. We +calculated our speed when rowing at about +two miles an hour, whereas for the first +24 hours it must have been at least +double this. I plotted our course as nearly +as possible on the diminutive map, and it was +annoying to see how much further on we should +have been had we started in the right direction +the day before.</p> + +<p>Our rations were the coarse bread, together +with a little honey and butter which we had +preserved for some days; but as neither of the +latter could be said to be good they were not +of much value. Some of our Horlick's milk +was still left, and this helped matters along.<a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a></p> + +<p>The morning of the third day broke with +windless serenity and rowing went on uninterruptedly. +The sky was perfectly clear, +but at midday we noticed some very small +clouds straight ahead which seemed stationary. +We held on our course, trusting that the +clouds meant land. At 6 o'clock that morning, +as far as we could make out from the +chart, we were at least seventy miles from +the nearest point of the Crimea.</p> + +<p>During the afternoon the question of rations +and water was discussed, and we decided that +if land was not in sight the next morning to +take over all the remaining bread and water +and distribute it ourselves, as the akhardash +had not the least idea of rationing and used +to eat and drink as the inclination prompted +them. We had not liked to interfere before, +but now it was a matter of necessity.</p> + +<p>The sun set in a glorious blaze, and just +at this moment there was a commotion at the +forward end of the boat and the word went +round that land was sighted. It was anything +but clear, but we took the word of the sailors +for it and every one became much excited. +Just before this event, Keor had made a fire +in the bottom of the boat, making a hearth with +some of the stone ballast and using some floor +boards and any other bits of wood he could find<a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a> +as fuel. On this was cooked some meal which +had been brought in from the abandoned boat; +sea water was used to boil it and a very useful +sort of porridge resulted.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">THE CRIMEA AND HOME</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>A</span></span><span class="firstwords">t</span> +dawn on the fourth day, September +25th, the land was very clear and +we could see a lofty headland which +ran steeply down to the sea. An hour or two +later, we could make out houses and then it +became clear that we were approaching some +seaside resort. All through the previous two +days, after we had taken charge of the steering, +the akhardash had continually inquired +whether the "road" was "good" and they +were now more than satisfied that we knew +the best way over the sea. Fortune had been +with us, in giving us fine weather and clear +skies by day and night; otherwise we might +have reached a very different destination. +Rowing on steadily, it was soon clear that +the place was quite extensive and probably +much frequented. Several large buildings +could be seen and something which looked +like a pier or jetty, to which we now steered. +It was not until one o'clock that we finally<a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a> +reached this spot and landed, to find ourselves +opposite the baths.</p> + +<p>For days we had talked of the delights of a +good hot bath and now we had come straight +to the very place. We were met by a Swiss +who was bathing. He hurried off to dress, +but before he could return we were accosted +by several other people, notably a retired +Russian general and an American diplomat +who lent us clothes and escorted us to the +baths. After getting really clean once more, +we were taken to a <i>pension</i> and made the +guests of the hospitable Russian ladies to +whom it belonged. They told us the place +was called Alupka and was one of the most +popular seaside places in Russia. Meanwhile +the akhardash had been escorted into the +town. In the morning they had begun to don +their bandoliers and handle their rifles, but +we persuaded them that they would be looked +upon in a more friendly manner on landing +if they abandoned these weapons.</p> + +<a name="alupka"></a><div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/alupka.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="436"> +<p class="caption">ALUPKA</p></div> + + +<p>It had taken us 78 hours to cross the 180 +miles of sea, but actually we must have sailed +well over 200 miles. We found that, comparing +our position on the third morning with +the spot we had marked on the map, we were +only some twenty miles out, which, as amateur +navigators, we considered quite good work.<a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a></p> + +<p>At the <i>pension</i> we were given lunch, and +wine was produced in our honour by our new +friends. We shall never forget their kindness, +and the extraordinary feeling of being amongst +all the amenities of civilization once more +after two years under other conditions. In +the afternoon, we were taken to the municipal +office and there interviewed by a very business-like +and intelligent lady who seemed to combine +the duties of commissioner of police +and most other municipal departments. Our +friends told us that there was some difficulty +in establishing our identity, since the commandant +of the town—who a few months +earlier before the Revolution had been an +actor—was very suspicious and inclined to +believe we were really Germans. In fact, +some splendid stories were going about. +According to one, a boat-load of Turks under +the command of three German officers had +attacked the town, one of the Germans being +wounded. Tip had been to see a doctor +and this no doubt lent colour to the idea. +At all events, the commandant told off a +sentry to shadow us about wherever we went.</p> + +<p>The akhardash, we found, had been accommodated +in the central police building, where +they had been given plenty of food and +seemed to be receiving visitors. We bought<a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a> +them some fruit and tried to cheer them up, +as they had imagined they would be received +with triumphal rejoicings and were somewhat +crestfallen at being treated more like prisoners. +Our first object was to get in touch with the +nearest British consul, so as to put their case +before him and get matters explained to the +Russian authorities; but no one seemed to +know where the nearest consul was to be +found. We got telegrams sent off to our +people at home addressed to the Embassy +at Petrograd. It was hopeless at this time +to try to get private telegrams through, and +for mails from home we found they were even +worse off here than we had been in Kastamuni. +It was strange, indeed, being in a +spick and span town, with well made roads +and everything clean and up-to-date, after +the filthy dilapidation which characterizes +everything in connection with the Turk.</p> + +<a name="alupka_baths"></a><div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/alupka_baths.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="443"> +<p class="caption">THE ALUPKA BATHS</p></div> + + +<p>Some people we met seemed rather annoyed +that we had not struck a mine, as they assured +us there was a large minefield through which +we had passed. We discovered, later, this +was quite wrong, but in any case our boat +was of much too shallow draft to be in much +danger. Others told us that we were fortunate +to land where we did, as had we gone a +little further east we should have come to the<a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a> +estates of some of the Grand Dukes who at +that time were interned under armed guards, +with orders to prevent anyone approaching +from land or sea! We were told that every +one was on rations and that food was getting +scarce. One of the most striking contrasts +to Turkey was the magnificent fruit on sale, +grapes, pears and peaches, all evidently cultivated +with great skill.</p> + +<p>As we emerged from our interview with the +lady commissioner, we were summoned to +halt in order to be cinematographed by the +representatives of some Moscow firm. All the +educated people we met in Russia were kindness +itself to us and made our journey through +the country very pleasant. It was pathetic +to be asked, as we were, to tell people in England +that not every one in Russia is bad and +worthless. All classes, we found, had welcomed +the Revolution when it started, thinking +a new and brighter era had dawned; but it +very soon became clear that the pendulum was +swinging much too far in the other direction, +and no one would dare to prophesy what +might happen next. Fortunately for us, +there was no actual internal fighting taking +place at the time and we got through the +country without trouble.</p> + +<p>The following day we left Alupka by motor<a name="Page_224" id="Page_224"></a> +for Yalta, a port a little further east. The +road led past some of the Grand Dukes' estates +and Livadia, the Tsar's Crimean palace. The +scenery all along was magnificent, the pine-clad +hillsides sloping steeply down to the blue, +with white houses or palaces. Yalta itself was +one of the most charming spots it had been +our good fortune to see, and is easily equal in +beauty to any of the Riviera resorts. From +here we were to travel by night by a transport +back past Alupka, reaching Sevastopol on the +following morning, but before leaving a +surprise was in store for us. As we had some +time to wait, we went into an hotel, with the +officer conducting us, for tea. This, however, +we found was the headquarters of the local +committee of soldiers and workmen, and a +few minutes later we were asked to go into +their meeting hall to receive their congratulations. +This promised to be rather awkward, +as we knew no word of Russian; but fortunately +a schoolmaster who knew French was +introduced to us. As we entered the room, +the soldiers and sailors present all clapped +vigorously. There were about 30 or 40 +present and it was necessary, as on every +possible occasion in Russia, to shake hands +all round. The schoolmaster then gave a +harrowing account of our imprisonment in<a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a> +Turkey and told them how we had eventually +escaped and reached Russia. He appeared +to say that we had been manacled in chains +and endured the worst possible fortune as +prisoners. After a suitable expression of +thanks conveyed through the schoolmaster, +we shook hands again all round and returned +to our tea. This was our only actual meeting +with a revolutionary committee, and we are +bound to say they seemed to have no love for +the Turk or any wish to leave their Allies in +the lurch by concluding a separate peace.</p> + +<a name="yalta"></a><div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/yalta.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="442"> +<p class="caption">YALTA</p></div> + + +<p>The transports steamed only at night and +kept close into the coast for fear of possible +submarines; so that the chances of our being +picked up by one on our way over had been +very remote.</p> + +<p>The akhardash travelled with us to Sevastopol, +and on arrival there we met the British +Naval Representative, Commander Sage, R.N., +who looked after us for the next few days. +As he spoke Russian fluently and was in touch +with all the highest authorities, we had no +trouble of any sort. The akhardash were +handed over to the Russian Staff authorities, +who provided them with good quarters on a +ship in the harbour. We three lived with +Commander Sage on an auxiliary cruiser, +the <i>Almaz</i>, which had previously been<a name="Page_226" id="Page_226"></a> +used as a private yacht by the Grand Dukes. +The akhardash had for some time wished that +we should all be photographed together and +we, too, were anxious to have such mementoes +of our time with them. The Russian Staff +very kindly arranged it and we had two groups +taken, one with our original rescuers with +their rifles and bandoliers, and one with all +the others included. Unfortunately Keor, +the old Armenian, was ill in hospital and could +not be present. As some days had elapsed +before the photos were taken, our friends had +obtained new clothing and hats and, therefore, +did not present the picturesque appearance +to which we had become accustomed. As +regards some recompense for all their services, +we could not get them to accept anything +more than what they had spent on our food +during all the time we were with them, but +the Russians paid them the exact sum they +had given for the boat, so that they were not +out of pocket on that account. As souvenirs, +they had given us each one of their long +Caucasian daggers, and we in return got wrist +watches for them and a suitably inscribed +cigarette case for Bihgar Bey. We left them +in good hands and have often wondered since +what has been their fortune. No men could +have acted more pluckily in rescuing us in<a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a> +the first place, or taken more trouble over +our comfort and welfare during the weeks we +spent with them in the hills and woods; and +never shall we forget how much we owe them.</p> + +<a name="three"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/three.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="492"> +<p class="caption">THE THREE OFFICERS AND THREE OF THEIR RESCUERS</p></div> + + +<p>After some days in Sevastopol, we said +good-bye to them and went round to Odessa +on the <i>Almaz</i>, where we made arrangements +with the British consul for our journey home. +At Odessa we were entertained at a most +convivial dinner by the British and American +Club. Like all dinners in Russia, it proved +prolific in speeches, a start being made with +the King's health, in the middle of the fish +course, by an enthusiastic American. From +these speeches we learnt how whole-heartedly +the great American nation had entered the +struggle and the efforts they were making in +Russia, more especially with regard to improving +the railways. Coming out of the +obscurity of Turkey, these things were new +to us, although by reading between the lines +of the Turkish papers we had been able to get +a fair idea of the general position on the actual +battle fronts. Another speaker told a pitiful +story of the position in Rumania and of the +appalling lack of medical stores and awful +ravages of disease in the Army. A visit to +the races and opera helped to pass two very +enjoyable days before saying good-bye to<a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a> +Commander Sage and our new friends, and +leaving for Mogileff, the then headquarters +on the Russian front to which we had been +summoned by the British Mission.</p> + +<p>On our way we passed through Kieff, a +magnificent town, peopled very largely by +Poles. Here we met some forlorn British +gunners who did not know what was to be +their fate, but were soon, I trust, back in +England. After a day in Mogileff we went +on to Petrograd. Travelling even at this time +was very comfortable on the Russian lines, +for those with passes such as we possessed, +except for the temperature of the carriages. +In some it was impossible to open any window. +The result was that we all got heavy colds, +although during the past six weeks we had +kept fit while sleeping out in the open and +occasionally getting soaked through.</p> + +<p>Petrograd was cold, wet, and dreary, and we +spent our time in rushing about between the +various departments before we could get +passports and tickets through to Bergen. +We, eventually, accomplished this by hard +work in three days, and were then told we were +fortunate not to have been kept at it for a +week. It was necessary to borrow mufti +to travel through Sweden and Norway. +Clothes in Russia were practically unobtainable, +but, fortunately for us, two naval<a name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a> +officers at the Embassy came to our rescue +by most generously giving us the necessary +garments. We were also indebted to the +Red Cross Depot at the Embassy for other +assistance in the way of clothes.</p> + +<a name="three_2"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;"> +<img src="images/three_2.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="495"> +<p class="caption">THE THREE OFFICERS AND THE AKHARDASH</p></div> + +<p>Tip and I left on October 14th, and after +an interesting trip through Sweden and Norway +reached Aberdeen ten days later.</p> + +<p>K., on the other hand, returned to the Black +Sea. It had been hoped, and we had done our +best to arrange, that an attempt should be +made with the assistance of the akhardash +to release some of the other officers at +Kastamuni. Unfortunately this plan never +materialized: for one thing our friends were +moved further inland from Kastamuni before +any attempt could be made, and when everything +was settled on our side the Bolshevik +rising had commenced and brought all plans to +a standstill. K. reached England two months +later, after having made a trip over to the +Turkish coast in a Russian destroyer, and +worked in every conceivable way to bring off +the scheme for the rescue of the other officers. +His persistent but unsuccessful efforts bring +the account of our adventures to a close.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII</h2> + +<p class="chapterhead">FRIENDS IN CAPTIVITY</p> + +<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>T</span></span><span class="firstwords">his</span> +story would not be complete +without recording the deaths of +Captain R. J. Tipton, R.F.C., and +Captain R. T. Sweet, D.S.O., 2/7th Ghurka +Rifles.</p> + +<p>Tipton, after very few days at home, reported +again for duty and would not rest +content until he had obtained leave to fly +and fight over the German lines. For this +purpose he had refused his majority. On +March 9th he was severely wounded in a fight +with a Hun whom he brought down. With +great courage and skill he brought his own +machine back and landed safely, but the +injury he had received proved fatal and he +died three days later.</p> + +<p>Tipton thus went back to fight at the earliest +possible moment, feeling it his duty to the +other officers left behind in Turkey, who were +bound to be suffering for our escape. Although +the youngest of our party, he was our<a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a> +leader on the long journey to the coast; and +to his unfailing good humour and tact we +owed much more than we realized at the time. +Although in pain for many days, he kept +cheerfully on and would never give in.</p> + +<p>Few men have been more beloved by all +with whom they came in contact, and his +gallant death has left a wide blank in the +affections of all who had the privilege to +know him.</p> + +<p>Sweet, whose gallantry at Kut had earned +him the D.S.O., was imprisoned at Angora, +after being brought back from the coast, +and exhibited to the other officers at Kastamuni +for a few minutes on the way. He +shouted to them to take a few days' provisions +and try their luck, that it was quite +easy to get away, and that he meant to start +again the first chance he had. In reply +they cheered him, much to the disgust of the +Turks.</p> + +<p>After two dreadful months in the civil +prison at Angora, he was taken to the officers' +camp at Yozgad, a place 4,000 feet above +the sea amongst the hills, in the very centre +of Asia Minor. Here he remained till a few +weeks before the armistice with Turkey was +announced, when he fell a victim to the +influenza scourge and died of pneumonia.<a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a></p> + +<p>In our escape Sweet was always the most +indefatigable, and on many an occasion +spurred us on when we three had no energy +left. His knowledge of Turkish was invaluable +and enabled us successfully to bluff our +way along during the days when we were +posing as Germans. It was only the merest +accident that parted him from us when the +akhardash arrived, and it is hard to feel that +so small a thing should have ultimately +resulted in the death of such a brave +officer.</p> + +<p>The first officers who died in Kastamuni +were Lieutenants Reynolds, of the 103rd +L.I., and Lock, of the I.A.R.O., attached +104th Rifles. Reynolds had been unwell +during most of the journey up and, undoubtedly, +had not got over the hardships of the +siege; he succumbed within a few days of +our arrival. Lock, who had been an indigo +planter in Bihar, went down with peritonitis +very shortly afterwards. Both officers had +done well in Kut and were greatly liked by +all who knew them. Their death in a strange +country, after the worst of our troubles +seemed to be over, was all the sadder to think +of.</p> + +<p>The third officer who died was Commander +Crabtree, R.N.R., of the S.Y. <i>Zaida</i>, which<a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a> +struck a mine while patrolling the Adana +coast. He, along with three other officers +from the same ship, was sent on to Kastamuni. +At Angora he was ill, but the Turks +considered him fit enough to travel, and sent +him on in a springless country cart over the +140 miles of rough road to Kastamuni. +Riding in a cart over this road is bad enough +for a fit man, but in his case it must have +simply jolted him to death. At all events, +he arrived dying, and never regained consciousness.</p> + +<p>Another sad death occurred amongst the +officers after they had been moved to Changri +from Kastamuni. On Christmas Day, 1917, +Major Corbett, 48th Pioneers, died suddenly +from an aneurism of the heart after some +strenuous tobogganing, which had been +allowed as a special concession.</p> + +<p>Major Corbett was one of those officers +who assisted our party to escape and would +himself have come with us had he considered +there was any small chance of success. To +the camp at Kastamuni he was invaluable +as staff officer to the lower group of houses, +always energetic and cheery and turning +his hand to something. Carpentry formed +his chief occupation when not playing +games.<a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a></p> + +<p>He was one of those men whom we felt +we simply could not do without, and his loss +may well be imagined in the camp at Changri, +where conditions had been rough and painful +in the extreme.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX_A" id="APPENDIX_A"></a>APPENDIX A<br><br><i>GARRISON OF KUT</i></h2> + + + + +<h3 class="smcap" style="padding-top:.5em;">Headquarters</h3> + + +<table border="0" width="100%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" summary="Garrison of Kut" align="center"> + +<tr valign="middle"> +<td valign="middle" align="center" width="47%" rowspan="4">16th Infantry Brigade,<br> +<span class="smcap">Maj.-Gen. Delamain</span>.</td> +<td width="6%" rowspan="4" valign="middle" align="center"><span style="font-size: 3.7em;">{</span></td> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">2nd Dorsets.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">66th Punjabis.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">104th Rifles.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">117th Mahrattas.</span></td> +</tr> + +<tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + +<tr valign="middle"> +<td valign="middle" align="center" width="47%" rowspan="4">17th Infantry Brigade,<br> +<span class="smcap">Gen. Hoghton</span>.</td> +<td width="6%" rowspan="4" valign="middle" align="center"><span style="font-size: 3.7em;">{</span></td> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">Oxford and Bucks L.I.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">22nd Punjabis.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">103rd Infantry.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">119th Infantry.</span></td> +</tr> + +<tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + +<tr valign="middle"> +<td valign="middle" align="center" width="47%" rowspan="4">18th Infantry Brigade,<br> +<a name="tn_png_249"></a><!--TN: Period added after "Mellis" and "Maj.-Gen. Mellis." centered--><span class="smcap">Maj.-Gen. Mellis</span>.</td> +<td width="6%" rowspan="4" valign="middle" align="center"><span style="font-size: 3.7em;">{</span></td> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">2nd Norfolks.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">120th Infantry.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">110th Infantry.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">7th Rajputs.</span></td> +</tr> + +<tr><td colspan="3"> </td></tr> + +<tr valign="middle"> +<td valign="middle" align="center" width="47%" rowspan="6">30th Infantry Brigade,<br> +<span class="smcap">Gen. Hamilton</span>.</td> +<td width="6%" rowspan="6" valign="middle" align="center"><span style="font-size: 5.5em;">{</span></td> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">2 Coys. Royal West Kents.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">3 Coys. 4th Hants T.F.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">2/7th Ghurka Rifles.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">24th Punjabis.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">67th Punjabis.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr valign="middle"> +<td width="47%"><span class="toc">76th Punjabis.</span></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a> + +<h3 style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;" class="smcap"><a name="Divisional_Troops" id="Divisional_Troops"></a>Divisional Troops</h3> + + +<p class="listing">17th Coy., S. & M.</p> +<p class="listing">34th (Poona) Signalling Co.</p> +<p class="listing">Sirmoor Sappers (Imperial Service).</p> +<p class="listing">1 Squadron 7th Hariana Lancers.</p> +<p class="listing">48th Pioneers.</p> +<p class="listing">63rd, 76th, 82nd Batteries, R.F.A. 18 guns, 18 pdr.</p> +<p class="listing">104th Battery, R.G.A. 2 4" guns.</p> +<p class="listing">84th Battery, R.G.A. 4 5" guns.</p> +<p class="listing">Volunteer Battery. 4 15 pdr. guns.</p> +<p class="listing" style="padding-bottom:1em;">"S" Battery, R.H.A., left behind 2 14 pdr. guns.</p> + +<p class="listing" style="padding-bottom:.5em;">Naval Detachment. 4 4.7" pdr. guns.</p> + +<p class="listing">H.M.S. <i>Samarra</i>: 2 3 pdr. guns; 1 13 pdr. gun.</p> +<p class="listing">Machine Gun Battery (6 guns).</p> +<p class="listing">Supply and Transport, including Jeypore</p> +<p class="listing">Transport Train, Wireless, Royal Flying Corps,</p> +<p class="listing">Depot and other details.</p> + + + +<h3 style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;" class="smcap">Medical Service</h3> + +<p class="listing">One British General Hospital.</p> +<p class="listing">One Indian General Hospital.</p> +<p class="listing" style="padding-bottom:1.5em;">3 Field Ambulances.</p> +<a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a> + +<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="8" cellspacing="4" summary="Strength of Garrison" align="center"> +<tr valign="top"> +<th width="75%" colspan="2" align="center" style="font-weight:normal;"><i>Strength of garrison at +beginning of siege.</i></th> +<th align="center" width="25%" style="font-weight:normal;"><i>Strength on surrender.</i></th> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%">British Officers</td> +<td width="25%" align="right">301</td> +<td width="25%" align="right">277</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%">British Rank and File</td> +<td width="25%" align="right">2,851</td> +<td width="25%" align="right">2,592</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%">Indian Officers</td> +<td width="25%" align="right">225</td> +<td width="25%" align="right">204</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%">Indian Rank and File</td> +<td width="25%" align="right">8,230</td> +<td width="25%" align="right">6,988</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%">Indian Followers</td> +<td width="25%" align="right">3,530</td> +<td width="25%" align="right">3,248</td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="right">Total</td> +<td width="25%" align="right"><span style="border-top:1px solid;border-bottom:4px double;">15,137</span></td> +<td width="25%" align="right"><span style="border-top:1px solid;border-bottom:4px double;">13,309</span></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="listing" style="padding-top:1em;">Losses: Killed and died of wounds, 1,025.</p> +<p class="listing">Died of disease, and missing, 803.</p> +<p class="listing">Arab population of Kut (?) 3,700.</p> +<p class="listing">Animals (horses and mules) before killing for food, 3,000.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX_B" id="APPENDIX_B"></a>APPENDIX B</h2> + + +<p>Copy of translation of pamphlets thrown +over from Turkish trenches towards our +line during the earlier part of the siege and +picked up between the two old lines when +these had been evacuated on Jan. 21st.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Oh dear Indian Brethren</span>,</p> + +<p>You understand the fact well that God +has created this war for the sake of setting +India free from the hands of the cruel English. +That is the reason why all the Rajahs and +Nawabs with the help of Brave Indian soldiers +are at present creating disturbances in all +parts of India and are forcing the English +out of the country. Consequently not a +single Englishman is to be seen in the N.W. +Frontier of India districts of Saad, Chakdara, +Mohmand and Kohat. Brave Indian soldiers +have killed several of their officers at Singapore, +Secunderabad and Meerut cantonments. +Many of the Indian soldiers have on several +occasions joined our allies the Turks, Germans, +and Austrians of which you must have heard.<a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a></p> + +<p>O heroes! our friends the Turks, Germans +and Austrians are trying merely for the freedom +of our country (India) from the English +and you being Indians are fighting against +them thus causing delay. On seeing your +degraded position one feels severely ashamed +(lit. 'blood in the eyes') that you have not +got fed up of their disgraceful conduct and +hatred towards you.</p> + +<p>You should remember how cruelly were +Maharajah Ranjit Singh of the Punjab and +Sultan Tipu treated by the English govt., +and now when our beloved country is being +released from their cruel clutches you should +not delay the freedom of your country and +try to restore happiness to the souls of your +forefathers as you come from the same heroic +generation to which the brave soldiers of the +Dardanelles and Egypt belong.</p> + +<p>You must have heard about the recent +fighting in the Dardanelles when Lord Hamilton +was wounded and Lord Kitchener +cowardly ran away at night taking with him +only the British soldiers from the Dardanelles +siege and leaving behind the Indian soldiers +who on seeing this murdered all their officers +and joined the Turks.</p> + +<p>Nearly everywhere we find that our Indian +soldiers are leaving the British. Is it not a<a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a> +pity that you still go on assisting them? +Just consider that these and we have left +our homes and country and are fighting only +for rupees fifteen or twenty; a subaltern +20 or 25 years old is drawing a handsome +amount as salary from Indian money while +our old Risaldar and Subadar majors are paid +nothing like him—and even a British soldier +does not salute them. Is that all the respect +and share of wealth for the sake of which +we should let them enjoy our country?</p> + +<p>For instance see how many of you Indian +soldiers were killed and wounded during the +battle of Ctesiphon and there is nobody to +look after the families of your deceased and +wounded brothers. Just compare the pay +a British soldier draws with that which you +get. Brethren hurry up, the British Kingdom +is going to ruins now. Bulgaria gave them +several defeats, Ireland and the Transvaal +are out of their possessions of which perhaps +you already know.</p> + +<p>H.M. the Sultan's brave Turkish forces +which were engaged at the Bulgar frontier +before are now coming over this side in lacs +for the purpose of setting India at liberty.</p> + +<p>We were forced by the British to leave our +beloved country for good and had to live +in America, but on hearing the news of our<a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a> +country being freed from English hands we +came here via Germany and found our +Indian brethren fighting against H.M. Sultan.</p> + +<p>Other nations are trying to restore us +freedom from the British, but it appears we +do not like to be freed from slavery, hence we +are fighting against our friends the Turks.</p> + +<p>Brethren, what is done, that is done, and +now you should murder all your officers and +come over to join H.M. Sultan's Army like +our brave Indian soldiers did in Egypt and +the Dardanelles. All the officers of this force +and Arabs have received orders from the +Sultan that any Indian soldier, irrespective +of any caste, a Sikh, Rajput, Mahratta, +Gurkha, Pathan, Shiah or Syed, who come to +join the Turks should be granted a handsome +pay and land for cultivation if they like to +settle in the Sultan's territory. So you must +not miss the chance of murdering your officers +and joining the Turks, helping them to restore +your freedom.</p> + +<p style="margin-top:1.2em;">Dated <i>28th December</i>, 1915.</p> + +<p style="margin-top:1.2em;">Printed and distributed by the Indian +National Society.</p> + +<p style="margin-top:1.2em;">Translated from originals in Urdu and +Pushtu or Punjabi.</p> + +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX_C" id="APPENDIX_C"></a>APPENDIX C</h2> + + +<p>Comparison of rations issued in Kut at +the middle of April, 1916, with full service +rations.</p> + + +<h3 style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;" class="smcap">British</h3> +<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" summary="Comparison of Rations" align="center"> +<tr valign="top"> +<th width="50%" align="center" style="font-weight:normal"><i>Normal Field Service.</i></th> +<th align="center" width="50%" style="font-weight:normal"><i>In Kut.</i></th> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Bread, 1¼ lb.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">4 oz. (from April 17th).</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Fresh meat, 1¼ lb.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">1¼-1½ lb. (horse and mule).</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Potatoes and vegetables, ½ lb.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil. (except ság).</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Bacon, 3 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">(or butter 1½ oz. twice a week).</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Tea, 5/8 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Sugar, 3 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Salt, ½ oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Jam, 4 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Cheese, 3 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Ginger, —</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">1/3 oz.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a> + + +<h3 style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;" class="smcap">Indian</h3> + +<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" summary="Comparison of Rations" align="center"> +<tr valign="top"> +<th width="50%" align="center" style="font-weight:normal" colspan="2"><i>Normal Field Service.</i></th> +<th align="center" width="50%" style="font-weight:normal"><i>In Kut.</i></th> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Atta (wheat meal), 1½ lb.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt" colspan="2">4 oz. (barley meal).</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Ghi, 2 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">½ oz.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Dal, 4 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Meat, 4 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">9 oz. (horse).</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Gur, 1 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Potatoes, 2 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Tea, 1/3 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="35%" align="left" class="indnt">Ginger, 1/3 oz.</td> +<td valign="middle" align="left" width="15%" rowspan="5"><span +style="font-size:6em;">}</span></td> +<td valign="middle" align="left" width="50%" class="indnt" rowspan="5">1/8 oz.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="35%" align="left" class="indnt">Chillies, 1/6 oz.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="35%" align="left" class="indnt">Turmeric, 1/6 oz.</td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="35%" align="left" class="indnt">Garlic, 1/6 oz.</td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="35%" align="left" class="indnt">Salt, ½ oz.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244"></a> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX_D" id="APPENDIX_D"></a>APPENDIX D</h2> + +<h3 style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;" class="smcap">Rations at end of Siege</h3> + + +<p>All except meat and ginger dropped by +aeroplane.</p> + +<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" summary="Rations at end of Siege" align="center"> +<tr valign="top"> +<th width="50%" align="center" style="font-weight:normal"><i>British.</i></th> +<th align="center" width="50%" style="font-weight:normal"><i>Indian.</i></th> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Bread, 3 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Indian atta, 3 oz.</td> +</tr> + +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Sugar, 1 oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Gur, ½ oz.</td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Chocolate, ½ oz.</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Dal, 1 oz.</td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" rowspan="3">Meat, 1½ lb. (horse or mule).</td> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt"> Salt, 1/8 oz.</td> +</tr> +<tr valign="top"> +<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Ginger, 1/8 oz.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Meat, 9 oz. (horse).</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245"></a> + + +<div style="border-top:2px solid;border-left:2px solid;border-right:2px solid;border-color:black; margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;"> +<div class="center" style="padding-bottom:.7em;padding-top:.75em;margin-right:10%;margin-left:10%"> +<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: 1.2em;display:block;padding-bottom:.3em;">JOHN LANE'S<br></span> +<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: 1.4em; word-spacing:.3em;">"ON ACTIVE SERVICE"<br></span> +<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: 1.2em;padding-top:.3em;display:block;">SERIES.</span> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="linearound"> +<div class="center" style="padding-bottom:.7em;padding-top:.75em;margin-right:10%;margin-left:10%"> +<p>Now that the Great War is definitely over it is +necessary to get it adequately chronicled. Of +necessity we must have comprehensive surveys of +the war, formal histories in many volumes; but the +real history of the great conflict is to be found not +so much in these, as in the vital pieces of descriptive +literature which our fighting men have struck off, +often while the drama was being enacted before +their eyes. It is with the object of getting together +a really vivid and actual record of the world conflict, +which will be of service not only to ourselves, +but to our children, that the "ON ACTIVE +SERVICE" Series has been formed. It consists of +a number of volumes, uniform in format and +production, which have been selected as being +representative of particular aspects or phases of the +war, written by soldiers, sailors and others who have +witnessed or actually participated in what they +describe. Here, in these personal experiences of +our men, is an enduring record of the last four or +five years; a record which, more surely than any +formal histories, will carry forward the memory of +those tragic but glorious days.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246"></a> + +<h2 style="font-style:italic">THE FOLLOWING VOLUMES HAVE ALREADY BEEN PUBLISHED</h2> + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">DOVER DURING THE DARK DAYS.</span> +By a "Dug-out" (<span class="smcap">Lt. Comm. Stanley Coxon</span>, R.N.V.R. Author of "And +That Reminds Me.") With contributions by other officers +of the DOVER PATROL. <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo. <b>7/- net.</b></span></p> + + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">This book lifts the veil which was so closely +drawn over the operations of the Navy during +war-time. It gives accounts of many engagements +and scraps with the enemy, written by actual +participants, and forms a valuable contribution to +the history of our navy during the most momentous +years of its existence.</p> + +<p class="adquote">"<i>The real thing.</i>"—<i>Daily Express.</i></p> +<p class="adquote">"<i>Makes good reading.</i>"—<i>Times.</i></p> +<p class="adquote">"<i>Spirited and exciting.</i>"—<i>Yorkshire Observer.</i></p> +<p class="adquote">"<i>The book has many fine pages in it.</i>"—<i>Evening News.</i></p> + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">TEMPORARY CRUSADERS.</span> +By <span class="smcap">Cecil Summers</span>, author +of "Temporary Heroes." <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo. <b>4/- net.</b></span></p> + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">A further volume by the author of the very +successful "Temporary Heroes," describing his +experiences in France, Palestine, Egypt and Italy.</p> + +<p class="adquote">"<i>A cheery, chatty chronicle. The author has a keen +eye for the humour of circumstance and a most +beguiling way."</i>—<i>Morning Post.</i></p> +<p class="adquote"><i>Bright and exhilarating. It is sure to be read widely.</i>"—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> +<p class="adquote">""<i>Even more hearty and sincere than the successful +'Temporary Heroes.'</i>"—<i>Liverpool Courier.</i></p> + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">THE BOY WITH THE GUNS.</span> +By the late <span class="smcap">Lieut. +G. W. Taylor</span>. Edited by his sister <span class="smcap">Mrs. Roger +Cookson</span>. With an introduction by <span class="smcap">Sir James +Crichton-Browne</span>. With Illustrations and Maps. <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo. <b>5/- net.</b></span></p> + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">This is a vividly realistic account of the work done +and hardships endured by our Royal Field Artillery +in the war, and of their "hair-breadth 'scapes in +the imminent deadly breach" in France and +Flanders, by one who went through them all and +made the supreme sacrifice.</p> + +<a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a> + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">PUSHING WATER.</span> +By R.N.V. (<span class="smcap">Lieut. Eric Dawson</span>.) <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo. <b>4/- net.</b></span></p> + + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">"Pushing Water" reveals a phase of warfare of +which the world knows little or nothing. It is the +story of the "Movy" of submarine-hunting and +mine sweeping in perilous seas, of duties faithfully +accomplished, without expectation of fame or +reward. As a sidelight on a branch of the Navy's +activities it has a good deal of interest, but the book +would recommend itself on the score of its quiet +humour and abundant anecdote alone.</p> + +<p class="adquote">"<i>This entertaining book ... a vivid picture of existence +on a 'Movy.'</i>"—<i>Sunday Times.</i></p> +<p class="adquote">"<i>An animated narrative.</i>"—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> +<p class="adquote">"<i>Described with real humour ... decidedly interesting.</i>"—<i>Birmingham +Post.</i></p> + + + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">A HANDFUL OF AUSSEYS.</span> +By <span class="smcap">C. Hampton Thorp</span>, +A.I.F., with a foreword by General Sir William Birdwood, +K.C.B., K.C.S.I., K.C.M.G., etc., and an Introductory +Poem by Robert Bridges, Poet Laureate. With Illustrations +by James F. Scott. <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo. <b>7/- net.</b></span></p> + + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">"A Handful of Ausseys" is the only book from +the pen of an Australian soldier which deals intimately +with the troopship voyage between the +Commonwealth and England, and the more detailed +side of the Soldier's life in England before he goes +across the Channel.</p> + +<p class="adquote">"<i>Well justifies its place among war books, for it is well +written, graphic and amusing, and full of facts and +anecdotes.... The illustrations are rather telling +and rather original.</i>"—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p class="adquote">"<i>Among the good war pictures of the present war, the +description of this draft's moving up to the firing line +deserves to find a pleasant place.</i>"—<i>Bookman.</i></p> + +<p class="adquote">"<i>Racily describes with much good humour and amusing +anecdote the daily experiences of an Australian +reinforcement ... these bright and spirited pages.</i>"—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> + +<a name="Page_248" id="Page_248"></a> + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">THREE CHEVRONS.</span> +By "<span class="smcap">Orex</span>" (<span class="smcap">Major H. F. Bidder</span>, +D.S.O.) <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo. <b>5/- net.</b></span></p> + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">An absolutely authentic, cool record of what the +author saw on the Flanders front from Christmas, +1914, to June, 1917. It contains the experiences of +a clear-sighted conscientious officer who keeps as +close as possible to fact and maintains his detached +judicial point of view. A book which both the +military man and public generally will appreciate for +its freshness and candour.</p> + +<p class="adquote">"<i>'Orex' has made a singularly successful contribution to +war literature by the direct method of honesty, +modesty and simplicity. His book is a pleasant +surprise.... He expresses it all in an individuality +of great charm, the charm of literary unconsciousness +and quiet restraint.... In every respect a +good book.</i>"—<i>Daily News.</i></p> + +<p class="adquote">"<i>Simply and attractively written, and quite worth its +place in the ON ACTIVE SERVICE Series.</i>"—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">SOME SOLDIERS AND LITTLE MAMMA.</span> +By <span class="smcap">Helen Boulnois</span>. <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo. <b>5/- net.</b></span></p> + + +<p class="adquote">"<i>A book of singular interest.... Remarkable for its +sidelights, on what may be called the domestic phases +of the war.</i>"—<i>Daily Graphic.</i></p> + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">THE SILENCE OF COLONEL BRAMBLE.</span> +By <span class="smcap">Andre +Maurois</span>. Translated from the French. Second Edition. <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo. <b>5/- net.</b></span></p> + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">This remarkably amusing account of an English +regimental mess by a French officer who was +attached as an interpreter, has had an immense +vogue in France, and its appeal to English readers +will without doubt be equally wide.</p> + +<p class="adquote">"<i>Those who do not already know the book in French, will +lose nothing of its charm in English form.... The +humours of the mess room are inimitable.... The +whole thing is real, alive, sympathetic. There is +not a false touch in all its delicate glancing wit.</i>"—<i>Daily +Telegraph.</i></p> +<p class="adquote">"<i>An excellent translation.... A gay and daring +translation.... I laughed over its audacious +humour.</i>"—<i><span style="font-size:1.1em;">JAMES DOUGLAS</span> in The Star.</i></p> + + +<a name="Page_249" id="Page_249"></a> + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">FIELD AMBULANCE SKETCHES.</span> +By a Corporal.<br> +<span style="text-indent:.3em;">Crown 8vo.</span> <span class="keepright"><b>4/- net.</b></span></p> + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">These sketches by a stretcher-bearer are extraordinarily +clear and actual. "Behind a Raid" is a +wonderfully vivid piece of work; the reader lives +every second of these thrilling hours, and the whole +scene is touched <a name="tn_png_263"></a><!--TN: "in in" changed to "in"-->in masterly style. The other +pages are equally fine. To the civilian they bring +home the actualities of War; while soldiers of every +class will enjoy them in their fine truthfulness.</p> + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">SAPPER DOROTHY LAWRENCE: The only English +Woman Soldier.</span> +Late Royal Engineers, 51st Division, +179th Tunnelling Company, B.E.F. With Portraits.<br> +<span style="text-indent:.3em;">Crown 8vo.</span> <span class="keepright"><b>5/- net.</b></span></p> + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">Miss Dorothy Lawrence enjoys the distinction of +having been the only British woman soldier, and in +this book she sets out her varied experiences, first in +Paris, where she did the necessary drills, and finally +"up the line."</p> + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">A KUT PRISONER.</span> +By <span class="smcap">H. C. W. Bishop</span>. Illustrated.<br> +<span style="text-indent:.3em;">Crown 8vo.</span> <span class="keepright"><b>6/- net.</b></span></p> + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">More exciting than any fictitious story of adventure +the main part of this book is occupied by the +story of the author's escape, in company with three +other British officers, from Kastamuni in Asia +Minor. <span class="smcap">Mr. Bishop</span> was captured at the fall of Kut, +and his narrative includes a description of the +appalling long march from Kut to Kastamuni, +during which such a large proportion of our men +succumbed to their sufferings which were wilfully +aggravated by their captors.</p> + + +<a name="Page_250" id="Page_250"></a> + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">WITH THE CHINKS.</span> +By Lieut. <span class="smcap">Daryl Klein</span>. With +Illustrations.<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo. <b>6/6 net.</b></span></p> + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">The author of "With the Chinks" was a civilian +in China who volunteered as an officer for the +training of Chinese coolies who were brought to +France to form Labour Brigades to work behind the +lines. The characters of his charges are sketched +with considerable skill, and the voyage via Canada +and the Panama Canal to France is picturesquely +described. The book forms a unique and interesting +page in the voluminous History of the War.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;"> +<h2 style="font-style:italic">THE FOLLOWING ARE IN IMMEDIATE +PREPARATION:</h2> + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">TALES OF A TROOPER.</span> +By <span class="smcap">A. Clutha <a name="tn_png_264"></a><!--TN: Period added after "Mackenzie"-->Mackenzie.</span> +<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p> + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">These tales convey in the most living manner the +experiences and sensations of a typical Anzac +en route to the war, then landed at Gallipoli, and +finally "knocked out" in the terrible battle for +the ridge.</p> + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">A PRISONER IN TURKEY.</span> +By <span class="smcap">John Still</span>, author of +"Poems in Captivity," etc. +<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p> + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">The author of this remarkable book was largely +instrumental in conveying to the British Government, +by messages, in an ingenious code of his own +invention, sent at considerable personal risk, very +valuable information regarding the treatment of +British Prisoners in Turkey. In this book, which is +an account of over three years' imprisonment in +Turkish hands, at Constantinople and at Afion Kara +Hissar, Mr. <span class="smcap">Still</span> gives a very forceful and vivid, +but restrained account of the trials, sufferings and +dangers through which he and his fellow prisoners +passed during their long captivity.</p> + +<a name="Page_251" id="Page_251"></a> + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">WARD TALES.</span> +By <span class="smcap">E. Chivers Davies</span>. +<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p> + + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">In this capital little record of V.A.D. work in a +hospital Miss Davies combines very cleverly two +points of view—the Nurses' and Hospital Staff's, +and the Tommies'. The author has humour, insight, +sympathy, and a very quick eye for a situation, and +in the course of her sketches she synthesizes the +atmosphere and outlook of a big Military Hospital, +especially as it appears to a V.A.D. Soldiers, and +others, will delight in the truthful and entertaining +pictures of this admirable little book, as will all who +have served, and are serving, in hospital.</p> + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">BEHIND BOSCHE BARS.</span> +By <span class="smcap">E. Warburton</span>. +<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p> + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">A cleverly written description of a young English +officer's internment as a prisoner of war in Germany. +As his experiences were thoroughly typical of the +later treatment by the Germans of officer prisoners, +his account forms a very valuable record of this +aspect of the war. The writer gives the Germans +credit for some kind acts, while laughing at them +for their stiffness, pedantry and stupidity. He +conveys a strongly actual picture of the whole body +of prisoners in every camp—their ways of life, +outlook, habits and feelings.</p> + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">WITH THE SERBS IN MACEDONIA.</span> +By <span class="smcap">Douglas +Walshe</span>. Illustrated. +<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p> + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">This is a very bright account of war experiences +in Macedonia, by an A.S.C. officer, who has the gift +of making his scenes <i>living</i> scenes. Mr. <span class="smcap">Walshe's</span> +narrative is very human, and he gives us an excellent +bird's eye view of the country, and the tangle of +races inhabiting it.</p> + + +<a name="Page_252" id="Page_252"></a> + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">FOUR MONTHS IN ITALY IN WAR-TIME.</span> +By <span class="smcap">Beatrice Thomson</span>. +<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p> + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">This book gives a remarkably clear idea of +hospital life, and also of Italian character and ways. +It is a fine record of service, and in its quiet restrained +humanity it is a chronicle which deserves to be +widely read. The author served for several months +in a war hospital in France, and her sketches of her +patients' characters and her record of their talk and +behaviour give us the real Italy.</p> + + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">WITH THE CAVALRY IN THE WEST.</span> +By <span class="smcap">J. D. Delius</span>. Illustrated. +<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p> + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">While we have had many books describing the +work of the Infantry and Artillery in the war, very +little has been written about the part played by our +Cavalrymen. The fact that their operations were +restricted by the conditions of modern warfare does +not, however, detract in the least from the interest +of <span class="smcap">Captain Delius'</span> book, for it is a book of happy +anecdote and amusing description, rather than of +the more repulsive side of war.</p> + + +<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">FROM THE SOMME TO THE RHINE.</span> +By <span class="smcap">Major A. Ashmead-Bartlett</span>. +<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p> + +<p style="margin-left:20%;">This is a valuable narrative of the last phase of +the Great War. The author, who has the literary +talent of his family has used his opportunities as an +Intelligence Officer to great advantage, and his +narrative is very clear, very picturesque and very +human. He has seized the salient details of what +he is describing, and his sincerity combined with +his artistic gift, makes a moving, life-like picture.</p> + + +</div> +</div> +<div style="border-bottom:2px solid;border-left:2px solid;border-right:2px solid;border-color:black; margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;"> +<div class="center" style="padding-bottom:.7em;padding-top:.75em;margin-right:10%;margin-left:10%;white-space:nowrap;"> +<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: 1em;display:block;padding-bottom:.1em;">JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD,<br></span> +<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: 1em;">VIGO STREET, LONDON, W.1.</span> +</div> +</div> + + +<div style="border: dashed 1px;margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;margin-top:2em;"> +<div style="margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;"> +<h2 style="padding-top:.75em;">Transcriber's Note</h2> + +<p>Illustrations have been moved near the relevant section of the text.</p> +<p>Inconsistent hyphenation and use of separate words have been retained for: +<div style="margin-left:15%;margin-right:15%;"> +<ul> +<li>down stream/downstream</li> +<li>Eski Chehir/Eski-Chehir</li> +<li>framework/frame-work</li> +<li>goatskins/goat skins</li> +<li>half way/half-way</li> +<li>hillside/hill-side</li> +<li>machine guns/machine-guns</li> +<li>sheep tracks/sheep-tracks</li> +<li>some one/someone</li> +<li>tilework/tile-work</li> +<li>trench digging/trench-digging</li> +<li>up stream/up-stream</li> +<li>up to date/up-to-date</li> +<li>used up/used-up</li> +</ul> +</div> +<p>Inconsistencies in italicization and capitalization have been retained.</p> +<p>Page numbers are documented in the source code.</p> +<p>I have added links within the document to larger versions of the maps.</p> +<p>The following minor typographical corrections were made:</p> +<div style="margin-left:15%;margin-right:15%;"> +<ul> +<li><a href="#tn_png_34">Period added after "line"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_68">Space added before "the"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_145">"Poor" changed to "poor"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_199">Period removed after "Tip"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_202">"A pparently" changed to "Apparently"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_209">"pro cured" changed to "procured"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_210a">"Bighar" changed to "Bihgar"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_210">"andfind" changed to "and find"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_249">Period added after "Mellis" and "Maj.-Gen. Mellis." centered</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_263">"in in" changed to "in"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_png_264">Period added after "Mackenzie"</a></li> +</ul> +</div> + +</div> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full"> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A KUT PRISONER***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 34069-h.txt or 34069-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br> +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/4/0/6/34069">http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/0/6/34069</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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