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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Kut Prisoner, by H. C. W. Bishop
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Kut Prisoner
+
+
+Author: H. C. W. Bishop
+
+
+
+Release Date: October 14, 2010 [eBook #34069]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A KUT PRISONER***
+
+
+E-text prepared by David Clarke, Linda Hamilton, and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images
+generously made available by Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries
+(http://www.archive.org/details/toronto)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations.
+ See 34069-h.htm or 34069-h.zip:
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/34069/34069-h/34069-h.htm)
+ or
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/34069/34069-h.zip)
+
+
+ Images of the original pages are available through
+ Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries. See
+ http://www.archive.org/details/akutprisoner00bishuoft
+
+
+
+
+
+A KUT PRISONER
+
+On Active Service Series
+
+
+[Illustration: KASTAMUNI]
+
+[Illustration: THE CASTLE ROCK (KASTAMUNI)]
+
+
+A KUT PRISONER
+
+by
+
+H. C. W. BISHOP
+
+London: John Lane, The Bodley Head
+New York: John Lane Company. MCMXX
+
+Printed by the Anchor Press Ltd., Tiptree, Essex, England.
+
+
+
+
+ TO THE MEMORY OF ALL THOSE BRITISH
+ AND INDIAN OFFICERS AND MEN OF THE
+ KUT GARRISON WHO HAVE SUFFERED AND
+ DIED IN CAPTIVITY THIS BOOK IS
+ REVERENTLY DEDICATED
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+The experiences related in the following pages are simply the individual
+fortunes of a subaltern of the Indian Army Reserve of Officers who had
+his first taste of fighting at the battle of Ctesiphon, and was
+afterwards taken prisoner by the Turks with the rest of the Kut
+Garrison, ultimately succeeding in escaping from Asia Minor. It is not
+intended to generalize in any way, since an individual, unless of
+exalted rank, sees as a rule only his own small environment and cannot
+pretend to speak for the majority of his comrades.
+
+The book is published in the hope that it may prove of interest to the
+many relatives and friends of the Kut prisoners.
+
+Acknowledgments are due to Messrs. Blackwood, the _Times of India_, and
+the _Pioneer_ for their kind permission to republish those chapters
+which originally appeared in these papers.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ CHAPTER PAGE
+
+ I. CTESIPHON 1
+
+ II. KUT 14
+
+ III. FROM KUT TO KASTAMUNI 34
+
+ IV. LIFE IN KASTAMUNI 80
+
+ V. ESCAPE FROM KASTAMUNI 104
+
+ VI. THE FIRST NIGHT 115
+
+ VII. ON THE HILLS 126
+
+ VIII. SLOW PROGRESS 135
+
+ IX. BLUFFING THE PEASANTS 147
+
+ X. REACHING THE COAST 158
+
+ XI. RECAPTURED 166
+
+ XII. RESCUED 174
+
+ XIII. IN HIDING WITH THE TURKS 184
+
+ XIV. CONTINUED DELAYS 194
+
+ XV. THREE DAYS ON THE BLACK SEA 208
+
+ XVI. THE CRIMEA AND HOME 219
+
+ XVII. FRIENDS IN CAPTIVITY 230
+
+ APPENDIX A 235
+
+ APPENDIX B 238
+
+ APPENDIX C 242
+
+ APPENDIX D 244
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+ KASTAMUNI _Frontispiece_
+
+ THE CASTLE ROCK, KASTAMUNI "
+
+ TO FACE PAGE
+
+ ELMEY BEY 48
+
+ MAP USED ON JOURNEY TO THE BLACK SEA 126
+
+ MAP SHOWING ROUTE OF ESCAPE 180
+
+ BIHGAR BEY 196
+
+ BOAT IN WHICH THE PARTY CROSSED THE BLACK SEA 210
+
+ MAP OF BLACK SEA 214
+
+ ALUPKA 220
+
+ ALUPKA BATHS 220
+
+ YALTA 224
+
+ THE THREE OFFICERS AND THREE OF THEIR RESCUERS 226
+
+ THE THREE OFFICERS AND THE AKHARDASH 228
+
+
+
+
+A KUT PRISONER
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+CTESIPHON
+
+
+In India, in the early days of the war, a newly gazetted subaltern of
+the Indian Army Reserve of Officers was sent for a month's preliminary
+training to one of the few remaining British regular battalions.
+Afterwards he was attached to an Indian Regiment, and, if fortunate,
+went on service with the same battalion. A great number, however, were
+sent off to join other units in the field. In this way I found myself
+arriving in Basra on October 2nd, 1915, with a draft for a regiment[1]
+of whom I had known nothing a few days before leaving India. However,
+the "Nobody's Child" feeling was very soon a thing of the past, and I
+was welcomed by a mess full of the best comrades any fellow could
+desire.
+
+[1] The 66th Punjabis.
+
+The battle of Es-Sinn had just taken place, and the 6th Division under
+General Townshend were then following the Turks up the Tigris above Kut.
+Our own fortune appeared to be to remain in Basra as part of the
+garrison; but, much to every one's delight, different news came a week
+or two later and on the 25th October we set off up stream, hoping to get
+right through to the front but with some fear that we might be kept at
+Amara.
+
+In those days travelling up the Tigris took a long time, and we spent a
+fortnight in reaching Azizie, a journey which can now be accomplished
+mostly by rail in two days.
+
+The regiment was accommodated on two of the river steamers, each having
+two big barges lashed alongside. The current is considerable and the
+heavily weighted steamer could only advance very slowly. In many places
+the river becomes very narrow, especially between Kurna and Amara, and
+much time was spent in bumping into sand-banks and struggling to get
+clear.
+
+We made short halts at Kurna, Amara, and Kut, the latter striking one as
+a horribly dusty and dirty little Arab town. Every night we used to tie
+up to the bank, as navigation by night was too risky with so little
+water in the river. On the last stretch to Azizie, we were warned to be
+on the alert for Arab snipers, and great preparations were made
+accordingly. A few shots were fired next morning, but nothing more than
+one Arab in the distance was seen. Other boats and convoys coming up had
+a much more lively time from raiding parties of the local tribes.
+
+Azizie was reached in the afternoon, and presented a scene of the
+greatest activity. The village itself consisted of only a few mud huts,
+but for some distance along the dusty bank of the river General
+Townshend's force was concentrated. Nothing could be a greater contrast
+to the deserted stretches of country through which we had passed than
+the bustle and life of a force about to advance.
+
+A few days later--on Monday, November 15th--the whole of the 6th
+Division and attached troops were on the march for Bagdad, the first
+stage being El Kutunie, some seven miles only. Here three days were
+spent and the final preparations completed. There was a little sniping
+at night from the further bank of the river, but this was quickly dealt
+with by the _Firefly_, the first of the new monitors to come into
+commission on the river.
+
+Great excitement prevailed on the night of the 18th when it was
+suddenly reported that the whole Turkish Force, which considerably
+outnumbered our own, was on the march to attack us and was expected to
+arrive and commence hostilities before morning. We spent a very
+industrious night, digging feverishly and wondering when the enemy would
+turn up.
+
+Morning arrived, to find many trenches but no sign of the Turks, and we
+later found that the previous reports had been entirely misleading.
+However, fresh orders were soon received, and not long after daybreak
+the whole force was off again, split into various columns whose mission
+was to encompass and annihilate the Turkish advance troops at Zeur,
+about ten miles further on. However, the enemy eluded us, as he had done
+previously, and got away just in time. After doing several miles across
+country in attack formation, always expecting to hear firing beginning
+in front, we found we had arrived in the position the Turks had just
+vacated.
+
+Next day a short march brought us to Lajj, a small hamlet on the river
+which was to be our jumping-off place for the forthcoming battle, and,
+as we believed, triumphal march on to Bagdad. All except the minimum of
+kit had been left at Azizie, whence it was to follow by steamer to
+Bagdad as soon as might be.
+
+Before leaving Azizie, the general had given all senior officers some
+idea of the problem we had to tackle, and they realized it would be no
+walk-over. The rest of us, fortunately, thought only of a repetition of
+the former successes, and that we should enjoy a cheerful Christmas in
+Bagdad.
+
+Detailed maps had been issued, not only of the Turks' position at
+Ctesiphon, but also of Bagdad and the methods to be adopted to push the
+enemy through and out of the city.
+
+At Lajj we were about nine miles from the Arch of Ctesiphon, built by
+Chosroes I. in the 6th cent. B.C. and round which battles had been
+fought from time immemorial. From the top of a sand-dune near general
+headquarters, the magnificent ruin was clearly visible standing up gaunt
+and alone above the flat plain. The Turks' position surrounded the Arch
+and stretched back on both banks of the river.
+
+We bivouacked one night at Lajj and at nine o'clock the following
+evening--Sunday, November 21st--the final advance began.
+
+Our plan was to surround and defeat the Turks on the left bank, where
+the greater part of their forces lay, and to drive them back on the
+Tigris or Diala River.
+
+The force was split into four columns, which were to attack from
+different angles, the "Flying" column being deputed to complete the
+victory by dashing on to Bagdad and seizing the Bagdad end of the
+Samarra Railway.
+
+At midnight we reached our station on some sand-hills about four to five
+miles due east of the Arch, which we could see very clearly as soon as
+it became light. It was a bitterly cold night and after digging in we
+lay down to get what sleep we could before dawn broke.
+
+The attack was to be begun by the columns further north, who had had a
+longer march and were further round the Turkish flank.
+
+There appeared to be considerable delay on their part, and it was an
+hour after the advertised time when our advance began. In the meantime a
+troop of Turkish cavalry had come out on a reconnaissance, but had
+thought better of coming up as far as our sand-hills and, after
+hesitating, retired unmolested by us.
+
+As we debouched from the high ground, we could see masses of Turks,
+apparently retiring in orderly formation towards their second line or
+still further, and the thought occurred that they were not going to wait
+even for us to attack. Actually, however, these were troops from the
+other side of the river being hastily brought across to strengthen the
+Turkish reserves opposite to us.
+
+Our particular destination was a point marked V. P. on our map, and
+understood to be the "Vital Point" of the Turkish line. It fell quickly
+to our attack, but was not carried at a light cost, and, still worse,
+was not so all-essential to the Turkish resistance as it should have
+been. Our advance was held up on the Turkish second line and,
+unfortunately, we were not powerful or numerous enough to break this
+also. The Turks had a fine position and their trenches were sighted with
+the greatest skill. Aided by the mirage effect, it was almost impossible
+to discern these trenches until right upon them; we, on the other hand,
+were out in the open plain, which was as flat as a billiard table and
+offered no cover of any sort. The Turkish front line was protected with
+barbed wire, and had they been provided with more machine-guns and been
+prepared to see things out a little longer, we should have fared very
+badly. As it was, we lost heavily in taking V. P. and the adjacent
+trench lines, and were too crippled to do much more.
+
+In the afternoon the Turks counterattacked; but our guns were too much
+for them, and they gained nothing.
+
+Evening found a confused force bivouacked round V. P. There were
+dreadful gaps in all ranks. About midnight I found my way back to my own
+battalion, to discover the colonel and M. O., the only two officers
+still carrying on. One other subaltern besides myself had been posted
+away from the regiment during the day, but, of the rest, only two were
+left out of ten who had gone into action with the battalion that
+morning. Other regiments were in much the same state, and it was evident
+that we had suffered terribly and had not completely smashed the enemy.
+Later on we heard that our casualties had reached a total of nearly
+5,000, while the Turks were said to have lost twice this figure.
+
+The next morning we took up our position along the Turks' old front
+line, and no more fighting took place until the afternoon, when the
+Turks came back once more. Attacks followed during the night and
+prospects were considered anything but rosy for us by those in
+authority. However, the Turks had had enough, and by next morning were
+again out of range.
+
+It was imperative for us now to get closer to the river for water, and
+accordingly the remnant of the force concentrated in the angle of the
+"High Wall," an ancient relic of the old wall of Ctesiphon, now a high
+bank, forming a right angle, each arm being about a quarter of a mile
+long. During the day the wounded were evacuated, being taken back to
+Lajj on A. T. carts. It was a pitiable sight seeing these poor fellows
+go. These were the days before the Mesopotamian Commission--springless
+carts were all that were available and a number of wounded must have
+been literally bumped to death over those eight rough miles back to
+Lajj. The memory of those jolting carts with their grimy battered loads
+of tortured humanity is one not soon to be forgotten.
+
+The night passed in peace, but the following afternoon the Turks were
+seen advancing in several columns, and we were given orders to pack up
+at once. Soon after dark we were ready, but it seemed an age until the
+head of the column got clear away and our own brigade, who were in rear,
+could move. Meanwhile the Turks were expected to arrive on the scene at
+any minute, and everything appeared gloomy in the extreme. Ammunition
+which could not be removed had been hastily buried. Large fires were lit
+to help our departure and endeavour to deceive the enemy. Cheerful
+prospects of rearguard actions all night over unknown country seemed all
+that was in store for us. However, fortune was with us again; the Turks
+hesitated once more and we were not attacked at all during the night.
+After a weary march through thick dust and sand, we reached Lajj in the
+early hours of the morning, and were greeted by a heavy downpour, which,
+fortunately, stopped just before we were quite soaked through.
+
+Digging was again the order as soon as it was light, and arrangements
+were made to give the Turks a very hot reception if they intended to
+come on at once.
+
+The following day digging continued, but in the afternoon we were again
+told to get under way, as the Turks apparently were close upon us.
+
+A long all-night march, only varied by Arab sniping, brought us back to
+Azizie the following forenoon. Here digging began once more, and it was
+not at first known if we should remain here and see it out or go back
+further right down to Kut, some 58 miles. The latter course was decided
+on next day and, having collected what little of our old kit we could
+still find, we set off once again southwards, and bivouacked by the
+river near Umm El Tubul, eleven miles further on.
+
+At eight in the evening, we were just congratulating ourselves on having
+at last a snug spot for a night's rest, when firing began and our
+pickets were soon driven in. However, the enemy did not make the
+expected attack during the night--which we spent in a nullah awaiting
+him.
+
+As soon as it was light, we could see a large Turkish camp, not much
+more than a mile distant. The first orders were that we should go out
+and attack; so we lined up for this purpose. Just as we were ready,
+fresh orders arrived, and we retired to the nullah while our guns opened
+with rapid fire on the Turkish camp. Meanwhile, there was great bustle
+in our rear, where the transport was being hurriedly got away for a
+further march towards Kut.
+
+We were told later on that the Turks thought they had only come up
+against a weak rearguard and were correspondingly dismayed by our
+gun-fire. They were said to have had 2,000 casualties on this day.
+However, they pushed on and we had to retire. Previous to this, Turkish
+shells had been coming over, but not doing very much damage.
+
+The old gun-boat, the _Comet_, and also the _Firefly_, were both put out
+of action while waiting to cover our retreat, and had to be abandoned to
+the enemy.
+
+By midday we had shaken off the advancing Turks, having done many miles
+across country which seemed to grow camel thorn in every direction. This
+shrub is most unpleasant to march through in shorts, and many were the
+torn knees in consequence.
+
+A few hours on the ground late that night gave us a little rest; but it
+was too cold to sleep, and we were soon sitting up round fires of
+brushwood which the men had lighted. Many of us had had no food since
+daybreak, and had to fall back on our emergency rations where these were
+still in existence.
+
+Next morning we were off once more, and after another long, wearisome
+day reached a camp only a very few miles from Kut itself, having done
+over 40 miles in the last 36 hours.
+
+Kut was entered the following morning, December 3rd, but it was not
+decided till some hours later what position we should take up.
+
+During the next two days we could walk about above ground without
+molestation, but snipers arrived all too soon, and by Monday, December
+6th, Kut was entirely surrounded and the siege had begun.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+KUT
+
+
+If the Turks had hurried up, they would have come upon us without
+properly dug trenches and we should have been taken at a great
+disadvantage. As it was, however, by the time they did arrive, we were
+dug in and had a good front line trench, although most of the support
+and communication trenches still had to be dug. After the first two or
+three days, all trench work had to be done at night, as conditions by
+daylight were not healthy.
+
+Life was not particularly pleasant during any part of the siege, and for
+the first few days we who were outside Kut had no dug-outs, all energy
+being spent on getting the front line firing trench ready. This would
+have been no hardship but for the fact that we had arrived back in Kut
+with a biting north wind, causing several degrees of frost at night, and
+an ice-covered bucket for one's ablutions in the morning.
+
+Throughout the siege, the Tigris formed our only water supply, this
+being carried in at night in kerosine tins by the regimental bheesties.
+Drinking water was purified with alum, which got rid of most of the
+sediment. Tigris is a poor drink at any time and seems particularly
+nasty when spoiling good whisky.
+
+On Monday, December 6th, the cavalry brigade left at daybreak and were
+the last people to get away from Kut. Many wounded and sick had been
+sent down stream during the day or two previously, the lighter cases
+being left in the hospital at Kut to recover and rejoin.
+
+In those early days, no one thought of a siege lasting more than a
+month, the general being reputed to be counting on relief by the New
+Year.
+
+Meanwhile, the Turks had been very busy: not only had they been digging
+at a furious pace opposite to us and sapping up closer and closer, but
+they had also sent considerable forces further on down-stream, to near
+Shaik Saad, to oppose the Relieving Force which was there concentrating.
+
+The night after the cavalry brigade had gone out, the boat bridge over
+which they had passed to the right bank was demolished under the noses
+of the enemy.
+
+This gallant feat was performed by Lieut. Matthews, R.E., and Lieut.
+Sweet, who volunteered for the job. Both men, we hoped, would receive
+the V.C. By the greatest good fortune, the Turks were entirely
+surprised, and the bridge was blown up before they realized what was
+happening or could offer any resistance. Both officers received the
+D.S.O.
+
+The story of the siege has been told in detail by others, and it is not
+intended here to attempt it. One saw only one's own small corner, and
+never knew what to believe of all the rumours and scandal in which a
+besieged town seems to be particularly prolific.
+
+After the first fortnight, a regular routine was started. The 16th
+Brigade took alternate turns with the 30th along the main trench line,
+while the 17th garrisoned the Fort, and the 18th looked after the town
+itself and Woolpress village.
+
+Meanwhile the medical people had been busy moving from their hospital
+tents to the covered-in bazaar, which was now converted into wards.
+
+For the first few days, the men were given extra rations to recuperate
+them after the wearying retreat and for the strenuous trench-digging in
+progress. It was not until January 10th that we were cut down to
+two-thirds full rations.
+
+The first Turkish shells arrived on December 5th, but did little harm.
+Throughout the siege, we had much cause to be thankful for the very
+large proportion of "duds" amongst all classes of Turkish shell.
+Fortunately, also, they had no high explosives, or Kut would have been a
+heap of ruins in no time.
+
+The mud of Mesopotamia deserves mention in this connection. It is as
+disagreeable as but rather more glutinous than most other brands of the
+same substance, and when baked dry by the sun is singularly impenetrable
+to rifle bullets. All the rules found in military pocket-books were
+quite upset by it, some eight inches of the best variety being quite
+enough to stop any bullet. For the same reason, trench digging in some
+places was very slow and tedious work, as the ground at that time was
+dry and hard, seeming more like cast iron than anything else.
+
+During the early part of the siege, regiments in the 16th and 30th
+Brigades, on being relieved in the front line, returned to a bivouac in
+Kut and did some hours' digging on the way, the operation being carried
+out at night. The following night was as a rule allowed us in peace,
+but for the next three or six nights, until again relieved, one was
+generally out digging or in "support" to some part of the line, so that
+"being relieved" did not mean much rest for anybody. The bivouac had a
+further disadvantage in that we had as many casualties here as in the
+front line. Dropping bullets would come in at odd moments from all
+directions, and it was impossible to keep clear of them. Some
+unfortunate was laid out nearly every day in this way.
+
+The Turks never once tried to shell our front line, but spent all their
+attentions on the town and the Fort. A tremendous "hate" preceded their
+attack on the latter on Christmas Eve. They succeeded in blowing a
+breach in the mud wall of the Fort in the north-east bastion, and
+afterwards assaulted with great dash. Fighting was extremely fierce and
+the Turks lost very heavily from our machine-guns. There was much hand
+bombing, this being the only occasion during the siege when fighting at
+close quarters took place.
+
+After gaining a footing through the breach into our trenches, the Turks
+were dislodged, but came on again later, and at midnight, December
+24th, were still in possession of the north-east bastion. However, they
+thought better of it, and by the morning of December 25th had all
+disappeared again. As a result of this fighting, we had about 400
+casualties, while the Turks were said to have lost 2,000. Be that as it
+may, they never made another attack on our lines.
+
+Khalil Pasha, the Turkish commander, was said afterwards to have told
+one of the British generals that he was just preparing another
+tremendous attack at the end of January, meaning to smash his way into
+Kut at any cost, when the floods intervened, and drove him back over
+half a mile, while we had also to return to the "middle" line--our
+second line trench some 300 yards behind the first. He stated that he
+was prepared to lose 10,000 in the attempt.
+
+Christmas Day passed peacefully, much to our satisfaction, and from now
+onwards there was great speculation as to the day of relief. We knew
+that General Aylmer's force was to start during the first days of
+January, and it was predicted that by January 9th or 10th the siege
+would be over.
+
+By the first week in January, all fresh meat was finished, but for a
+time we had "bully."
+
+The Relieving Force suffered its first serious check at Shaik Saad and
+never arrived, as we had hoped. There was nothing to be done but to
+carry on and wait till next time. The weather now was cold and wet and
+the trenches often knee deep in mud and water. Kut itself was in a
+filthy state, the streets being a sea of mud after every downpour. The
+Tigris was steadily rising throughout January and by the 20th was near
+the top of the bund running along the bank. Heavy rain on this day and
+the next, together with the rise in the river, was responsible for
+flooding out the Turks' front line. They managed, however, to turn the
+water over towards us, with the result that we, also, were drowned out
+of the corresponding part of our line, the effect of this being that
+there was now a good distance between the new front lines. For two days
+we could walk about in the open, and were much interested in seeing the
+old Turkish trenches, and taking all possible firewood in the shape of
+old ammunition boxes from their loopholes. We found that one of their
+saps was only forty yards from our trench, and many were the bombs they
+had thrown which just fell short.
+
+The most interesting relics were numbers of pamphlets tied to sticks
+and bits of earth and thrown towards our line. These were effusions
+printed in various languages by the Indian National Society, Chicago,[2]
+and contained much startling information. The Sepoys were informed that
+no British were now left in several N.W. Frontier districts, and were
+recommended, as brave soldiers, to murder their British officers and
+join the Turks. The Sultan was represented as being ready to give land
+to every one who would respond to this invitation. As regards Gallipoli,
+it was stated that Sir Ian Hamilton had been wounded and that Lord
+Kitchener had run away in the night, taking the British troops with him
+and leaving the Indians, who thereupon murdered their officers and
+joined the Turks.
+
+[2] See Appendix B.
+
+Very few, if any, of these leaflets reached the Sepoys, and, as far as
+we could see, left them unmoved.
+
+After two days' freedom above ground, a reconnaissance was sent out to
+locate the Turkish outposts. This had the immediate effect of starting
+great activity in the Turkish pickets some 1,200 yards from our line,
+and from that day onwards snipers were always busy. Even so, life was
+very much pleasanter than when the enemy was within 100 yards.
+
+By January 13th we were down to half rations, and by January 23rd were
+still further reduced. On the 26th, the general issued a long
+_communiqué_, telling us of how the Relieving Force had been
+unsuccessful so far, having had heavy losses and very bad weather to
+contend against. He announced that there were 84 days' more ample
+rations without counting the 3,000 animals.
+
+Actually the siege went on for another 94 days, but the rations were
+scarcely ample, even including the horse meat. However, at the time, it
+seemed that there was nothing to worry about, especially as the general
+said he was confident of being relieved during the first half of
+February.
+
+With the beginning of February, we started eating horse, mule and camel.
+There were very few camels, but they were said to be quite good eating.
+For the rest, mule is very much to be preferred to horse. There were
+also the heavy battery bullocks, but these were not numerous, and were
+very thin already.
+
+All the eggs and milk obtainable from Arabs in the town were supposed to
+go to the hospitals, but it was always said they did not receive nearly
+as much as they should have done.
+
+During January and February, one could buy several things from Arabs in
+the bazaar, i.e., tea, dried beans, atta and "kabobs" or small hot
+chapatties, cooked in grease. The tea must all originally have come from
+the S. & T. All the Arabs in Kut wore Army socks very early in the
+siege. In fact, it would be harder to find a race of more expert thieves
+anywhere on the globe.
+
+Towards the middle of February, the Turks began sending over an
+aeroplane to bomb us. The pilot was a German, and knew his business too
+well. After his first trip, machine guns were rigged up to welcome him
+the next time he came and the sappers mounted a 13-pounder to fire as an
+anti-aircraft gun.
+
+Considering the difficulties involved and the absence of all special
+sighting arrangements this gun made some very fair shooting. But the
+only effect of all these efforts was to make Fritz, the pilot, fly
+higher and approach the town from a different direction. The first time
+he came very little damage was done; then one day a bomb demolished an
+Arab house, killing a number of women and children, and a second fell on
+the British hospital, where no less than 32 sick and wounded men were
+killed outright or horribly injured. The padre--the Rev. H.
+Spooner--told me afterwards that no sight he had witnessed at Ctesiphon
+could be compared to that hospital ward. Presumably Fritz was aiming at
+the ordnance yard next door or some of the guns on the river bank only a
+little further on. Had there been more room and good buildings in Kut,
+it would no doubt have been possible to put the hospital in a safer
+spot, but, as it was, no other building was available. Fritz always
+succeeded in eluding our aeroplanes from the Relieving Force. He had so
+little distance to go home, whereas they had to come up 20 miles or
+more.
+
+Two main observation posts were maintained, one above general
+headquarters in the town, and the other in the Fort. There was great
+rivalry between the two, and on one occasion, a large flock of sheep was
+definitely reported in the town as a considerable force of the enemy
+moving to the rear. The Fort maintained they were sheep and neither
+would give in.
+
+We could see every day long strings of camels on the horizon, carrying
+rations for the Turks from their base at Shamrán above Kut down to
+their forces at Sanaiyat and Magassis.
+
+The usual book of words about camels informs the reader that they are
+liable to slip and split themselves up if allowed to travel over wet or
+slippery ground. In Mesopotamia, however, the camel seems not to worry
+at all when going over land submerged by floods, and carrying on
+generally under all conditions. He is a much wilder specimen than the
+usual Indian camel, and our experience before Ctesiphon was that he
+would only lie down if one of his forelegs was folded and bound up, and
+he was then hit on the head with a thick stick.
+
+A feature of Kut which will not be forgotten was the little chapel which
+our padre rigged up in one of the few remaining upper rooms of the
+battered Serai. This building was in an exposed position on the river
+bank and suffered more than any other from the Turkish shells. The padre
+himself was indefatigable, doing everything he possibly could in the
+hospitals in addition to his other duties.
+
+Almost every day one or more of our aeroplanes came over Kut, and some
+things were dropped, but how we wished they would drop us some letters.
+We knew there must be a great accumulation of mails at Amara and it
+seemed so easy to arrange it. As it was, some bags of letters were
+dropped for the staff and even the S. & T. but, as usual, the regimental
+officers came off worst. We wanted news from home more than anything
+else, and, as it turned out, most of us never heard a word from our
+people till we had reached Anatolia the following July after an interval
+of eight months.
+
+Fortunately, we could get messages sent out by the wireless, and once a
+month a telegram was despatched to the depots in India, saying that all
+were well, or something equally brief but satisfactory to our friends at
+home.
+
+Another great blessing afforded by the wireless was the publication of a
+short summary of Reuter's telegrams, which gave us something else to
+talk of other than the everlasting questions of food and the date of
+relief. In particular, the taking of Erzerum by the Russians cheered us
+up, and made us hope that the Russian force approaching Bagdad from
+Persia would be equally successful.
+
+In fact, at one time the betting was said to be in favour of the Russian
+general, Baratoff, relieving us from the north, before our friends
+down-stream.
+
+With the arrival of March, every one was full of excitement over the
+coming great effort of the relieving force, which was prophesied to take
+place on the 4th, but was actually the 8th.
+
+Many schemes were prepared by which we were to co-operate, so that after
+the Turks had been started off rearwards by General Aylmer, we might
+hasten their departure. In most of these plans one brigade would have to
+play the leading rôle, and probably come in for a pretty hot time unless
+the Turks had become quite demoralised; much speculation arose,
+therefore, as to which brigade would be given this post of honour.
+
+March 8th came and went and we realized that another gallant attempt had
+failed. The bombardment could be clearly heard, and at night it was easy
+to see the shells bursting. During the attack on the Dujailah Redoubt
+our friends were only seven to eight miles from us, and we could hear
+their rifle and machine gun-fire.
+
+This failure was a great disappointment and we realized what it must
+have cost in casualties. There was only one thing for us to do, namely,
+carry on; so the rations were reduced again and life went on in its, by
+this time, mechanical round. All were still confident of being
+relieved, and when it became known that General Gorringe had taken over
+command down stream we felt sure something decisive would happen and
+that he would get through, if anyone could.
+
+After every unsuccessful attempt, a Turkish envoy promptly arrived with
+a white flag and requested us politely to surrender. He was as
+courteously and consistently refused.
+
+Rations were now down to 10 oz. of bread, this being half atta and half
+barley. The dates were finished and the small stocks of mess stores
+which had been carefully eked out were nearly finished. Still we had jam
+and tea and the mule wasn't at all bad. Some saccharine dropped by
+aeroplane gave us something sweet, and was a great blessing.
+
+The efforts to get the Indians to eat meat at the end of February had
+failed. They declared that every village pundit would be against them on
+their return to India and that, in consequence, no one would give them
+their daughters to marry.
+
+Everything possible to help religious scruples was done, and special
+permission obtained from the Imám at Delhi and other religious
+authorities; but it was no use, and not until the second week in April,
+when they were literally starving, did the Indian troops begin eating
+horse. No doubt, if they had done so earlier, we could have held out for
+some few days longer, but it is doubtful whether this would have
+sufficed for our relief.
+
+After March 8th, all horses not wanted for food were shot to save their
+keep, and many a good animal was sacrificed in this way.
+
+By the 19th, the bread ration was only 1/2 lb., while the Indians were
+getting 10 oz. meal. The small quantity of food began now to tell on the
+strength of all ranks, and cases of bad enteritis--so-called--were
+common, these resulting in many deaths during the last days of the
+siege.
+
+It is really wonderful what an amount of satisfaction can be derived,
+under such conditions, from simply imagining a first-class meal, and I
+remember one day, in my dug-out, having a great time going through a
+long menu and choosing everything I should like best.
+
+When the grass began to grow towards the end of March, we gathered what
+the Sepoys called ság or anything we could make a sort of spinach with.
+It was like eating wet hay, but, undoubtedly, kept scurvy down, and if
+well soaked in vinegar was not so bad.
+
+In Woolpress they managed to get a little fish from the river, fishing
+by night.
+
+Our activities after March 8th were directed to keeping out the floods.
+Two big bunds were made, one inside the other, round Kut. The Arabs in
+the town were forced to work on the inner one and thus saved the troops,
+who were weak enough as it was already with making the outer bund.
+
+By the end of March we had a splendid bund across the middle line
+capable of keeping out nearly three feet of water; this being 4 ft. 6
+in. high and about 20 ft. thick at the base, all the soil having to be
+excavated from pits in front. The sappers had told us that our mess
+dug-out was just about the lowest spot round Kut and would be the first
+place to be flooded; however, when the floods really came, we found we
+were two feet higher up than the regiment a little further along the
+line. It was hard work making these bunds, and all the men not otherwise
+on duty were out every night. The bund also had to form the firing
+parapet, and with barbed wire entanglements in the "borrow" pits in
+front and again beyond we were well protected from any attack, not to
+mention the floods which would have made an advance by the enemy almost
+impossible.
+
+All through April the water slowly percolated up and the dug-outs and
+trenches had to be continually raised, until by the end of the month we
+were nearly up to ground level. The river rose to its highest level
+during April, but fortunately news was received, by wireless, from a
+British officer with the Russians at Lake Urmia, of the various floods,
+so that we were more or less prepared. Actually we had never much more
+than 2 ft. 6 in. outside our bund, which held well. Had we been driven
+back inside the inner bund, the whole force would have been cooped up in
+a very small area and any shelling would have been bound to take a large
+toll.
+
+For the last ten days there was no tobacco left. People were smoking
+used-up tea-leaves, orange leaves, liquorice, and even grass. Whatever
+smoking tea-leaves may be like for the smoker, it is exceedingly
+unpleasant for everybody else, especially in a dug-out.
+
+Throughout the April fighting we followed each _communiqué_ from General
+Gorringe with the greatest anxiety, watching his shells bursting over
+the Turkish lines by night and always hoping on until after the _Julnar_
+had failed to get through.
+
+The men were not told anything about this attempt, but the 30th Brigade
+made ready to cover the unloading, in the event of the gallant ship
+winning through. She was to be beached by the Fort the same night and
+unloaded before the Turks could bring their guns to bear on her next
+morning. I remember listening to the firing as she slowly made her way
+up-stream; star-shells and flares went up and lit up the scene and she
+met with a terrible reception.
+
+Then, after a time, all firing ceased and we realized that this splendid
+attempt had failed. According to one member of the crew, all went well
+until they reached Magassis, where they struck a cable which gave way,
+but a second one immediately afterwards stopped them. Commander Firman,
+the naval officer in charge, thought this was a sand-bank and left his
+protection on the bridge to shout to them to take a sounding. He was
+killed on the spot. Cowley, the well-known skipper of the ship, then
+took charge but they could not get past the obstruction, and he himself
+was soon very severely wounded by a shell, from which he died when taken
+ashore.
+
+Eventually this magnificent attempt had to be given up. It was a most
+heroic effort and, had it been possible to steam faster, would probably
+have been successful. As it was, the ship was very heavily laden with a
+month's supplies for the garrison on board and could only do five or six
+knots against the very strong current. Even so, we still fondly hoped
+that General Gorringe might achieve the impossible at the last minute;
+but it was not to be.
+
+The last few days we lived on the emergency and reserve rations which
+each regiment had in its keeping, and the food dropped by aeroplanes
+from the Relieving Force. These brought us white flour, some sugar and a
+little chocolate. The bread ration, however, was only 4 oz. or just one
+good slice a day each.
+
+We were all very weak and there was a great deal of sickness. Enteritis,
+which seemed not very different from cholera, was prevalent and affected
+nearly everybody to some extent. Not infrequently a Tommy going into Kut
+from the front line would suddenly collapse, often not to recover. I
+remember feeling rather disappointed that I did not look thinner, and
+one felt one ought to be a dreadful scarecrow really to have done the
+siege justice.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+FROM KUT TO KASTAMUNI
+
+
+On April 29th, Kut surrendered, and it was with sad feelings that we
+watched two Turkish battalions marching in at midday. The bitter thought
+that they should have worsted us in the end, together with the knowledge
+of the useless sacrifice of life by our friends down-stream, was present
+to all; but there was also a great feeling of relief that the siege was
+now over, and we had not realized until this moment how severe the
+strain had been.
+
+We believed the Turks would treat all ranks well, as up to that moment
+they had always fought and behaved like gentlemen. Khalil Pasha, the
+Turkish general, had said we should be treated as his "honoured guests,"
+and, since at that time we had not had much experience of Turkish
+promises, we were inclined to think all would be well, although we knew
+the Turks themselves were short of supplies and had great difficulty in
+feeding their troops down-stream.
+
+Orders came round telling us to destroy everything that could be of use
+to the enemy, only a few rifles being kept in case of trouble with Arabs
+in the town before the Turks arrived. Field-glasses, revolvers, maps,
+and diaries all had to be destroyed and saddlery burnt. It seemed a
+crime to be sacrificing so much that was valuable, but this was better
+than helping the enemy in any way. The last works of destruction had
+only just been completed when the Turkish troops arrived, and great was
+their disgust at finding all the guns destroyed, and nothing worth
+taking but a few rifles.
+
+Some of us had kept our swords, thinking that they would be returned to
+us in traditional style, only to find them collected by the first
+Turkish subaltern or N.C.O. who set eyes on them. Those who were wiser
+had thrown theirs in the river or buried them, and we all wished we had
+done the same. Later on, we heard that the officers' swords from Kut had
+been displayed as an interesting exhibit in some museum at
+Constantinople.
+
+The departure from Kut began that evening, one steamer taking a full
+load up to Shamrán, the Turkish base camp, some eight miles up-stream.
+We had still to depend on the remnants of our own rations for that day
+and the next, but fortunately they just sufficed.
+
+Next day, as we moved up towards the old Serai, near which the steamers
+were moored, we had to pass a palm grove which had been occupied by some
+Turkish soldiers. These men were systematically looting any kit which
+was being carried past, and to which they had taken a fancy. A good deal
+was lost in this way. The Turkish officers seemed powerless to stop it,
+the culprits merely walking away until the officer had departed.
+
+The steamer made two or three more trips that day, but it was announced
+at noon that all those left must march, their kit alone going on the
+steamer. How they managed that march in a starving condition they only
+know who did it, but when the steamer reached Shamrán on its last trip
+at midnight they had all come in and been regaled with Turkish ration
+biscuits. An amusing incident occurred during this march. An Indian
+sweeper--the humblest of all regimental followers--was trudging along
+behind his regiment carrying some of the articles of his trade, when
+they passed some Turkish gun-pits where there were several German
+officers standing. On seeing them the sweeper made obeisance with the
+deepest of salaams; whereupon the Germans promptly stood to attention,
+clicked their heels and saluted.
+
+During the following days, we made ourselves as comfortable as possible
+at Shamrán, and, fortunately, got other food in addition to the Turkish
+biscuits. These biscuits need only be once seen or eaten never to be
+forgotten. They are of a dark-brown colour, unless mouldy, about six
+inches in diameter and an inch thick in the centre, and made from a very
+coarse meal, which must contain anything except wheat. They are even
+harder than the hardest of our own army biscuits.
+
+The Turks had allowed us to bring with us what tents we had in Kut, and,
+although we had to leave them behind at Shamrán, they were of the
+greatest comfort to us during the week which we spent there.
+
+A launch arrived from the relieving force, bringing with it barges laden
+with food, including a number of mess stores and gifts. These we
+eventually got possession of, although the Turks would not allow them to
+be landed at our camp, but took them up-stream some distance, where we
+expected they would take a systematic toll of everything. Turkish
+soldiers and Arabs brought in dates, a few oranges, and a syrup made
+from dates, which they sold at excessive prices.
+
+Bathing was allowed in the river, and some enthusiasts who still had
+fishing tackle spent a considerable time on the bank, but without much
+success.
+
+One day, General Townshend passed up-stream in a launch accompanied by
+two or three of his staff _en route_ to Bagdad. All ranks rushed to the
+bank to give him a parting cheer, which one felt meant that all knew he
+had done his best for us throughout.
+
+With the end of the siege one had expected all the worst features of the
+last few weeks to disappear, but the heavy mortality from enteritis
+continued at Shamrán. It was especially heavy amongst the British ranks,
+in many cases being aggravated by a too suddenly increased diet, of
+which the Turkish biscuits formed a large part.
+
+A few days after our arrival, it was announced that the men would all
+have to march up, while officers would be taken up in batches by the
+steamers. The first party to leave contained the generals and staff, and
+most of the officers from British units. The following day the men were
+to march. Our doctors insisted on a very thorough examination, as a
+large proportion of the men were unable to march. The Turks would not,
+however, accept the British doctors' decisions, and reduced the unfit to
+a much smaller number.
+
+The result was that large numbers fell out after the first day, and had
+to be taken on board the _Julnar_, which was bringing up a number of men
+from the Kut hospitals whom the Turks considered not ill enough to be
+exchanged. We were all convinced that had it not been for German
+counsels at Constantinople some arrangement for our return on _parole_
+to India might have been made.
+
+The men were told to take one blanket or greatcoat each, as well as
+their haversacks and water-bottles. They had no transport whatever, and
+our hearts misgave us as we watched them go. The column wound slowly out
+of the camp with many checks, and it was over an hour before they were
+clear; all seemed to be carrying big loads, and many things must have
+been thrown away or sold before they reached Bagdad. The Turks were only
+too anxious to buy, when they could not steal any clothing, boots, or
+equipment, their own clothing and equipment being at a very low ebb
+after months of service in Mesopotamia, to say nothing of the long march
+down from Asia Minor. Many had no boots, and were just wearing sandals
+of goat-skin, such as they are accustomed to use in the country
+districts of Anatolia.
+
+When the men had departed, the camp seemed very forlorn; about 150
+British and Indian officers were left, while the hospital tents
+contained many sick of all ranks.
+
+Two days later, on May 10th, the second party of officers left on the
+steamer _Khalifa_, which had on board a few German gunners returning to
+Bagdad and a good number of Turkish officers. The journey took three
+days; on the second day we passed the _Julnar_. She was covered with
+bullet-marks, showing through what a severe fire she had forced her way.
+Now she was loaded with sick from Kut. We waved to those on board, but
+were not near enough to speak to them.
+
+Our steamer used to tie up to the bank for a short while twice a day, in
+the morning and evening, enabling us to get a hurried bathe and a little
+change from the cramped space on the deck, where we spent the rest of
+the time.
+
+The third day we passed the battlefield of Ctesiphon, full of memories
+of the victory which had proved so disastrous six months before. We
+halted for the night not far from the Arch, and were greeted by the
+local Arabs, who danced and fired off ancient rifles and pistols in the
+air in derision at our captivity. The women also contributed their share
+by making a peculiar kind of trilling sound. How we hoped they might
+soon be singing in a very different fashion when our troops should
+advance again and take Bagdad.
+
+We reached Bagdad the next morning. As we slowly paddled up the river,
+we could see the Red Crescent flag floating from almost every good house
+on the river sides; hospitals seemed to be everywhere, and we realized
+what awful casualties the Relieving Force had inflicted on the Turks.
+
+For some miles before Bagdad is reached, the river is fringed with palm
+groves, gardens, and cultivated land. When we left Kut the river was
+within a few feet of the highest ground, but here the banks were very
+much higher.
+
+We were landed at the old British Residency, and, after a little delay,
+were formed up in order of seniority and marched off along what appeared
+to be the main road. It was evidently arranged as a triumphal procession
+to impress the inhabitants. At length, after a march of two miles,
+passing through the covered-in bazaar, where the shade was most
+welcome, we emerged on the north side of the town, and reached our
+destination at the Cavalry Barracks. We had been promised furnished
+quarters, but found bare floors and empty rooms; the building formed a
+large quadrangle, and was empty of all troops when we arrived. A little
+later our orderlies and servants appeared, bringing our kit from the
+steamer. On leaving Shamrán colonels were allowed to take two orderlies
+or Indian servants, other officers being allowed one each.
+
+Fortunately, just before we left, some money in Turkish gold had been
+sent up by the Relieving Force by aeroplane, and thus all ranks had a
+little cash.
+
+When the second party reached Bagdad, the first party had already
+departed for Mosul, and rumours arose about the journey, people saying
+at first that we should have carriages from the railhead at Samarra,
+then that only donkeys would be available, while others thought we
+should be lucky to get anything.
+
+While at the barracks we were given a month's pay by the Turkish
+authorities, on what proved to be for senior officers a very generous
+scale, the greatest mercy being that half the amount was paid in gold.
+Had this not been done, we should have been in a truly sorry plight on
+the long journeys by road across the desert, since no Arab would look at
+Turkish notes, and insisted on being paid in hard cash.
+
+At this time, the Russian force under General Baratoff had made a sudden
+advance through the Pusht-i-Kuh mountains and reached Khanikin, 90 miles
+north-east of Bagdad; the Turks were therefore very anxious to get us
+away, while some of the under-strappers, evidently thinking the Russians
+would reach Bagdad, began to talk in a very different strain, pretending
+that they had really been pro-British all the time.
+
+Very few people succeeded in getting out of the barracks, but two or
+three officers, duly escorted, managed to get a gharry, and drove
+straight to the American consul, who arranged to give them money, and
+did everything he could for them. He said he expected to see many of us,
+and went on to tell them exactly what he thought of the campaign up to
+date. He was very pessimistic over the future treatment of the British
+troops, and declared that had we known what would happen to them we
+would have cut our way out of Kut at whatever cost. We hoped this was
+exaggeration, and that things would not turn out as badly as he
+expected; but events proved only too truly how entirely his fears were
+justified. Hopelessly inadequate rations, no transport, no medical
+arrangements for the sick who fell out, and utter incapability of all
+Turkish authorities, constitute one of the blackest crimes committed
+during any war.
+
+It is only right to add that whenever we met German officers they did
+all they could to help us, more than one saying they considered that we
+and they were civilized people in a land of barbarians.
+
+Two days after reaching Bagdad we were paraded in the hot sun in the
+afternoon and marched off to the station, passing over the bridge of
+boats and through the Shia quarter of the city, which lies on the right
+bank of the river. We were all only too glad to get away from the
+insanitary conditions which are inseparable from all Turkish buildings.
+
+After a wait of two hours at the station, we were packed into a train
+which started about six o'clock. A few miles north of Bagdad we passed
+the Great Mosque at Kazmain, its golden domes and minarets shining in
+the setting sun. The train proceeded at a good rate; everything in
+connection with the railway was naturally German, and of a substantial
+description. The length of line then completed to the railhead at
+Samaria was 80 miles, passing through slightly undulating country the
+whole way. This had been finished by the Germans before the war broke
+out.
+
+Most of us were weary, and many preferred lying on the floor of the
+corridors or vestibules at the end of the cars, to sitting straight up
+in the cramped compartments. We made several halts, and it was near
+midnight when we arrived. Our guards, a few gendarmes, seemed to have no
+idea where we were going, or what was to be done with us. Eventually we
+were told to leave our kit, which was to be brought along later, and
+were guided down towards the river. After walking a mile, we found
+ourselves in a small Arab village on the river bank, and were conducted
+into a courtyard some 40 yards square, where we were told we were to
+stay. There was a rough shelter round three sides, formed by brushwood
+supported on a rough wooden framework; this promised a certain amount of
+shade, and we were all glad to be in the open air rather than in another
+barrack building. There were no signs of any transport fetching our kit,
+so the most enterprising managed to procure two trollies, and trundled
+them up to the station along a narrow-gauge line. The Turks used this
+line for taking stores, ammunition, etc., to the railway, from the rafts
+on which they were floated down from Mosul. By dawn, nearly all the kit
+had been collected, and we had settled down as best we could.
+
+There was a certain amount of food obtainable from Arab vendors, and as
+we had our Indian servants, and a few things left from stores received
+at Shamrán, we were fairly comfortable. As usual, no one seemed to know
+how long we were to be there, before our journey by road across the
+desert began. Fortunately, we were not guarded very strictly, and were
+allowed to go outside the courtyard, and down to the river to bathe; the
+current here was very strong, and only the most powerful swimmers could
+make any headway against it, and that only for a few yards.
+
+The town of Samarra was on the other bank, and some little height above
+the land on our side. It stands back from the river, and contains a fine
+mosque, with a golden dome. The inhabitants cross the river in
+gufahs--the large round coracles which are used all down the Tigris.
+Owing to the current a start always has to be made very much higher
+up-stream than the point where it is desired to land on the other side.
+
+During the three or four days which we spent at Samarra, a large
+quantity of German gun-ammunition arrived by raft from up-stream, and
+was carried by Arabs up the bank to the trollies. These rafts carry big
+loads; they are formed by a skeleton frame of wood on which is placed
+brushwood, the frame being supported by inflated skins which are tied to
+it. On reaching the end of a journey, the skins are deflated and sent
+back up the river to be used again. As there are rapids between Samarra
+and Bagdad, it was not possible to float the rafts right down to Bagdad,
+and consequently everything had to be transhipped to the railway. One
+night some large motors arrived, and went on at once by road towards
+Bagdad. Reports immediately circulated that Enver Pasha had arrived; but
+this cannot have been true.
+
+We had now learnt who our commandant on the journey was to be. He was a
+yuzbashi or captain, by name Elmey Bey, a little man with an enormous
+moustache, which made him look very fierce. He knew a very little
+French, and could therefore be approached without an interpreter. We
+did not really appreciate him until later. One morning he escorted a few
+of us over to the town; there was nothing to be seen except the mosque,
+and we were not allowed to look at this even from the gateway, much less
+to enter the courtyard.
+
+[Illustration: ELMEY BEY
+
+_(From a Water-colour Drawing by Lt. Browne)_]
+
+After making a few purchases, we went into an Arab café and partook of
+coffee and tea flavoured with citron. Elmey Bey would not let us pay for
+anything, and we thought it most hospitable of him. He said he would
+accept our hospitality another day. However, he eventually left the café
+without paying anything, and apparently the proprietor was really our
+unwilling host.
+
+The town seemed very deserted, many of the inhabitants being over on the
+other side, selling anything they could to the first batch of troops,
+who had reached Samarra that morning by rail, and were now camped in the
+open a little way above us. We were not allowed to go to see them, but
+one or two managed to get messages through, and an Indian clerk
+belonging to my regiment came to see us. He looked thin, and had
+evidently had a hard time. He said that on the way to Bagdad the guards
+had flogged men who fell out, to see if they were really ill, and that
+conditions as regards rations were pretty bad generally. None of our
+men, however, had succumbed so far, and, as many of the regiment had
+been anything but fit to start with, we hoped they would be able to
+stand it. We gave him a few little things in the way of eatables before
+he went back.
+
+The next day, we were told we were going to march; and the question of
+transport became all-important. At first the Turks said there would be
+two animals--donkeys, mules, or ponies--to each officer; this seemed
+much too good to be true, and when the time came there was barely one
+animal to every officer. These had all been forcibly commandeered from
+the villagers round, and a good many were taken back again on the sly by
+their owners before we could get hold of them. Others were taken by the
+gendarmes who formed our guard, while several were too small to be of
+use, or were hopelessly lame. By the time we had got our kit packed, we
+had left for riding one reasonably large donkey and a diminutive beast
+between the six officers and seven Indian servants in our mess.
+
+We started at sunset in a dust-storm. Fortunately it did not last long,
+and we got along without mishap till about eleven o'clock, when a heavy
+rainstorm came on. All through the night, and especially after every
+halt, we had been urged on by our Arab escort shouting "Yallah, yallah!"
+This really means "O God!" but is used by the Arabs for "Get on and
+hurry up." How we came to loathe that cry! About two in the morning, we
+reached some water; luckily, in the dark, we could not see what we were
+drinking. We must have done fifteen to twenty miles; and, as most of us
+had not marched any distance for months, we were only too glad to fall
+asleep for a few hours. At dawn we were again on the move, having had
+some trouble in finding our own animals again; the wise had marked
+theirs with copying pencil, and this method was generally resorted to
+afterwards.
+
+We went on with halts of a few minutes every hour, and got down to the
+river again at midday. It was now pretty hot, and we were told we should
+arrive at Tekrit, a small Arab town, in one hour. Throughout Turkey and
+Mesopotamia distances are measured by hours; a good working plan is to
+add on 50 per cent. to the average of what one is told, as no two men
+will ever say the same; if journeying by night it is safer to double it.
+
+That last hour to Tekrit was one of the worst we had; actually it was
+nearer two hours. There was a blazing sun, and we were very tired. The
+road left the river and went up a hill, then down and up again. On each
+rise we expected to see the town, but it was dreadfully slow in
+appearing. From some distance off we were met by Arab boys and women
+selling eggs, raisins, sour curds, and chapatties. Finally, we were
+taken through the place down to the river edge, a sort of dirty, stony
+beach, where we were told to camp; we had covered 30 to 35 miles in the
+last nineteen hours, and most of us had marched almost the whole
+distance.
+
+There was a small Arab café which we were allowed to use, but otherwise
+there was no shade. Arabs sauntered about our bivouac, and were anything
+but friendly; the place was filthy, and we were far from feeling
+cheerful.
+
+Some of the houses of the town stand up on a rocky crag above the river.
+Tekrit is a very old place, and at one time there was a bridge over the
+river here. It was laid waste by the Mongols and the people butchered.
+Before we left, we were all wishing that some such fate might be in
+store for the present inhabitants.
+
+Some of us bathed, but the water was very shallow and dirty. Arabs could
+be seen swimming across the river supported on inflated skins, in
+exactly the same way as Xenophon has described their forefathers doing
+2,000 years ago.
+
+That afternoon we tried to arrange to hire extra animals, as we felt
+that we could never get along if the succeeding marches were so severe.
+A good many animals were forthcoming, mostly mules and large donkeys.
+The usual terms were to be one pound in gold, paid in advance, and a
+second on arrival at Mosul. The following evening, just before starting,
+the owners demanded the whole two pounds in advance; there was nothing
+for it but to comply, the reason undoubtedly being that the commandant
+of the town and Elmey Bey both desired to have their share before
+starting, as otherwise they would not see any of it. A long delay ensued
+before we got off, and it was getting dark before we were clear of the
+town.
+
+The march that night was uneventful, and we halted for a few hours
+before dawn near the river, continuing our way as soon as it got light.
+We passed a few Arab encampments, formed of dark tents, where the nomads
+come at certain seasons to cultivate the surrounding land, together with
+their flocks of sheep and goats. Not a single house, or even mud-hut,
+was to be seen. Our next halt, which we reached in the middle of the
+morning, was a serai standing by itself on a low ridge. It was built on
+the usual square pattern, and contained a well, which however, was not
+of very much use, as the water was unfit for drinking; drinking water
+had all to be carried from the river, over a mile away.
+
+Elmey Bey, or "Phil May," as we christened him, had by this time shown
+how anxious he was to help us, by doing nothing at all to assist us
+either in buying provisions or keeping prices down. Our escort consisted
+of a few Arab gendarmes, and, on arrival at any village or encampment,
+they would make the people put up their prices, and insist on taking the
+difference as commission themselves; whenever they could manage it they
+prevented all country people from approaching us until their own demands
+had been satisfied.
+
+Phil May rode the whole way, and would hurry on and be comfortably
+asleep in his camp bed by the time we reached the end of the march. If
+worried sufficiently by the senior officers, he would occasionally go to
+the extent of abusing one or more of the gendarmes, and administer the
+usual punishment adopted by all officers in the Turkish army--slapping
+the face of the culprit. It says a good deal for the discipline of the
+Turkish soldier that a sergeant will stand up like a lamb and have his
+face smacked by the veriest nincompoop of an officer.
+
+Leaving the serai again the following morning, we did a short march of
+some six or seven miles only, down to the river. This was to be a very
+strenuous day, for that evening we were to start on the long waterless
+march about which we had heard so much. It was said to be 40 miles, that
+we should halt during the next day, and not reach water till the morning
+after, thus doing two all-night marches. Most people had bought
+goatskins, tied up to hold water, from the local Arabs. Most of them
+leaked more or less rapidly, the new skins being much the worst, and all
+gave the water a very strong flavour.
+
+We got away about 5 p.m., and nothing special happened till about 11
+o'clock, when suddenly the escort became wildly excited, and dashed up
+and down; we were halted and told there were hostile Arabs about; the
+gendarmes fired off a few shots into the air, but nothing more occurred.
+All we could find to account for the disturbance was that one officer
+had lost his donkey, which had got loose and gone careering off to the
+side of the road. As it was a dark night, this may very likely have
+alarmed one or two of the gendarmes, who did not strike us as being men
+of valour.
+
+Two hours later we halted, and, after a sketchy supper, soon got to
+sleep. In the morning, instead of remaining where we were for the day,
+as we had expected, we had to move on once more to the tune of "Yallah,
+yallah." After three hours or so we reached some low sand-hills, and
+amongst these found an unexpected stream, where we proceeded to camp.
+This stream, like so many more in this part of the world, was not pure
+water, but contained salts of various descriptions, said by the Turks to
+make the water bad for drinking. We drank steadily from this and other
+similar streams; and, luckily, for the most part, felt no ill effects.
+
+That evening, we were again upon the road, our destination being
+Shilgat, a small Turkish post on the Tigris, which we were meeting once
+more. We arrived eventually about midnight, after a very wearisome
+march, and after a long wait were herded into the courtyard of the
+Turkish fort. When the kit had been sorted out, we were very soon
+asleep, the usual precautions being taken to see that boots were hidden
+under one's valise, or tied up in some way to prevent theft. As the
+Turkish troops were always badly off for footgear, boots were the
+articles most often stolen, and several pairs had disappeared in this
+way before we reached our journey's end. All were thoroughly tired out,
+and it had been decided that we would insist on a rest the following
+day. Great was our wrath, therefore, to find ourselves awakened again at
+dawn, and told we must move at once to another place. Phil May came in
+for more abuse, and lost his temper promptly. We settled down,
+eventually, in another enclosure not far away, where we had more room.
+Later on, we succeeded in our efforts to get a whole day's rest.
+
+In ancient times Shilgat was Assur, the first capital of the Assyrian
+Empire. Archæologists had evidently been at work here; all the
+foundations of the old city had been laid bare; it had covered a
+considerable area, and had been built largely of marble. Situated on a
+high promontory overlooking the Tigris and the flat plains beyond, the
+old town must have been an imposing sight from all the surrounding
+country. Now, only the foundations remain, and no carving or
+inscriptions are to be seen.
+
+Next day, we were off once more across flat, uninteresting country,
+keeping close to the river. At the start, there was considerable delay
+owing to donkeys getting bogged in a creek which we had to cross. After
+a midday halt for a couple of hours, we continued our weary way, and
+finally bivouacked for the night on the bank of the river.
+
+The following day's march proved one of the most unpleasant of the whole
+journey. After an early start, we soon reached a Turkish post, where a
+long delay occurred while our orderlies drew rations. At this place
+there were small bitumen works, these being the first signs of any
+modern industry which we had seen since leaving Bagdad. A little farther
+on, the track rose to higher ground, and we left the river away on our
+right. It began to get hot towards midday, and a warm wind got up,
+bringing clouds of dust to meet us. At length, in the afternoon, we
+reached a Turkish post, where after much altercation we were refused an
+entrance, and had to retrace our steps to a somewhat sulphurous stream a
+little way back, where we camped for the night.
+
+The country all round at this time of year is covered with long thin
+grass, and in many places there are quantities of wild flowers, scarlet
+poppies being very conspicuous.
+
+In order to defeat the gendarmes, we had by now formed a kind of trade
+union for buying eggs from villagers. On approaching each place, it was
+decided how much should be paid for eggs, these being more in demand
+than any other kind of food. In the Bagdad district the Persian kron is
+the usual unit: a kron is equivalent to fourpence or two Turkish
+piastres; farther north the piastre, or qrush, is used. The cheapest
+rate we obtained for eggs was eight for a piastre, or four a penny,
+whereas when the gendarmes had their own way we had to pay a penny for
+each.
+
+Our next march took us to Hamàmali, a place on the river, and containing
+an old bath, as its name implies. There are bitumen springs entering the
+river here, but they are not strong enough to render the water unfit for
+drinking. Supplies were very plentiful--eggs, raisins, bread, and dates
+being the most sought after. After a few hours' rest and a bathe in the
+river, we started off again in the evening, looking forward to a real
+rest on reaching Mosul the next day. We bivouacked beside the road, and
+were moving at an early hour next morning. The road wound up and down
+over low hills, and some attempt had been made to metal the surface and
+build good bridges, showing that we were getting near to an important
+place. As we reached the top of one ridge, a full view of the Tigris
+valley burst upon us, Mosul lying straight ahead of us, while farther to
+the right across the river lay the ruins of old Nineveh. In the
+immediate foreground, the course of the river was marked by green
+cultivated land and low woods, while away, in the distance, rose the
+dark mountains of Kurdistan.
+
+On approaching the town more closely, one noticed a great difference in
+the mosques, as compared with Bagdad. Here the minarets were of plain
+stone-work, and were not capped by gorgeous golden domes or brilliant
+blue tile-work.
+
+We were marched into a large building, formed on the usual Turkish
+pattern of a hollow square. This seemed to be chiefly used as a prison.
+We were given three or four empty rooms on the upper story. Water was
+scarce, and had to be brought in by hand. In other respects, the
+building had all the filthy characteristics inseparable from the Turk.
+
+Soon after arriving, we were given Red Crescent post-cards to send home,
+and these turned out to be the first news our friends in England
+received from us. For food we were allowed to go out to restaurants in
+the town. One of these, run by a Frenchman, was a great joy to us, after
+the scratch meals which we had been forced to be content with for so
+long. We had covered the 175 miles from Samarra to Mosul in just under
+ten days, and had it not been for the extra animals hired at Tekrit we
+should scarcely have managed this. As it was, most people could ride for
+an hour and walk for an hour alternately, though some were not so
+fortunate.
+
+We were promised many things in Mosul, amongst others that we should be
+allowed to go to bathe in the river. This was never allowed in the end,
+although we went in parties to the bazaar, where we laid in stocks of
+flour, rice, and raisins, for the journey on to Ras-el-Ain. We were told
+that very few supplies were obtainable on the road until we reached
+Nisibin, 120 miles away.
+
+At Samarra, we had left behind a few officers who had not sufficiently
+recovered from the effects of the siege to proceed at once on the road
+journey. At Shilgat, we picked up one officer left by the first party,
+and left one or two of our own servants behind. All these we hoped would
+recover enough to come on with the troops or subsequent parties of
+officers. At Mosul, we found one of our doctors left behind by the first
+party, and attending to an officer who was down with enteric.
+
+After a rest of two days at Mosul, we started off on June 1 for the 200
+miles to the railhead at Ras-el-Ain. Our transport was now composed
+chiefly of carts, and a few extra carts were hired by paying in advance
+as before. There was the usual uncertainty as to how many marches it
+would take us, and how many hours we should be on the road the first
+day. We were now going almost due west, and would not see our old friend
+the Tigris again.
+
+In response to our complaints to the commandant at Mosul of the way in
+which our Arab escort had behaved, these men were changed for Turkish
+soldiers, who gave us less trouble. Our party was accompanied by three
+magnificent Arab horses, which were being taken to Constantinople for
+Enver Pasha. The Mosul district has been the finest horse-breeding
+country in Asia from the earliest times; indeed, it would be hard to
+imagine a country better suited for the purpose than the rolling grassy
+plains stretching away on both sides of the river.
+
+After leaving the Tigris, we did not see a single tree for a hundred
+miles, and there was very little water of any description. The first
+night we spent by some dirty pools after a march of more than twenty
+miles. The carts were not as restful as might be imagined, since they
+had no springs, and every few minutes the Jehu would urge his steeds
+into a canter to catch up distance lost on the cart in front, or merely
+to try to get ahead of it. The harness was largely composed of string
+and rope, which often gave way, thus occasioning a long rattle for all
+on board before the former place in the procession was regained. Some of
+the horses had most appalling sores: they are evidently worked till they
+drop, and receive the harshest treatment from the drivers. The boys
+driving our carts were Kurds, wild, quick-tempered, and reckless.
+
+The second day brought us to a camp beside a stream of pure sweet water,
+a welcome change after all the dirty pools and salt-laden springs which
+we had experienced. The following day, after a halt near some dirty
+springs at noon, we started on another long waterless trek in the late
+afternoon. We went on steadily all night, passing a large prairie fire.
+These fires are started to burn up the old long grass and make way for
+the fresh growth. They extend for miles, and at night are a fine sight,
+with heavy clouds of smoke hanging above.
+
+We halted for two hours about two in the morning, and then got under way
+once more. About nine o'clock we came to a good stream and towards
+midday reached our camp at Demir Kapo. Here, there was a small river
+which yielded a number of fish. We saw a few Germans, and a German
+wireless section was camped near. We bathed in the stream, and were very
+glad to rest for the remainder of the day and the following morning.
+
+Two more marches brought us to Nisibin. The country after leaving Mosul
+had been almost uninhabited, but here there were small villages dotted
+about. On getting nearer to them, we found that they were deserted; our
+guards told us they were Armenian villages, and that the people had all
+been killed earlier in the war. We passed a great many of these awful
+testimonies to the barbarity of Turkish politics.
+
+Away on our right, as we approached Nisibin, could be seen Mardin, a
+city built on a rock overlooking the plains, and forming, as it were, a
+look-out from the southern fringe of the Taurus Mountains. As to how
+far Mardin also was a city of the dead, it was impossible to tell.
+Before the war, the main Armenian population had extended from this
+district over a belt of land running north-eastwards up to Erzerum and
+Van.
+
+At Nisibin, we camped near the river, and had a full day's rest. This
+place saw as much fighting as any spot in Mesopotamia in the old days,
+having been the frontier station between Rome and Parthia. There are not
+many relics of the past to be seen at the present day, but close to our
+bivouac stood four old pillars, bearing transverse stones which had
+formed part of the Roman Forum. They stood out forlornly in a field on
+high ground, and, as might be expected, supported a stork's nest. These
+birds often build a new nest on the top of one or more old ones: they
+are very common in Mesopotamia, and several were seen in Bagdad.
+
+The following evening saw us moving on again, and the day after we
+halted at midday at Tel Erman. At this point, there is a road branching
+away to the north of the route we had followed and leading up to
+Diarbekr. The Turks were moving a good many troops at this time up to
+the Caucasus fronts, through Diarbekr, to meet the Russian pressure. We
+found a large camel convoy just beyond the village; since leaving Mosul
+we had met no troops or convoys destined for Bagdad or the Persian
+front; everything for Mesopotamia appeared to go down the Euphrates on
+rafts, this being the quickest way.
+
+Tel Erman lived in our memories as being the first place where we had
+obtained any fruit since leaving Bagdad three weeks before. Some small
+cherries and apricots were to be had and were eagerly bought up.
+
+During the evening's march, we passed a regiment of Turkish cavalry,
+who, for Turks, seemed to be wonderfully well equipped. The average Turk
+never looks happy on a horse, but these fellows made a better show than
+usual. As we approached the railhead at Ras-el-Ain, signs of activity
+increased, and there were more dead horses at the roadside, showing that
+the traffic was heavier.
+
+The last day's march was one of the worst; during the morning stage the
+sun was hot, there was no breeze, and quantities of sand-flies assailed
+us. Towards midday, we reached a big Turkish camp, where there were a
+good many men and stores in course of transit eastwards. Here we rested
+until late in the afternoon, when our final march to Ras-el-Ain began.
+The last few miles were accomplished at a good pace to a sustained
+whistling accompaniment, ranging over most of the popular songs of the
+last few years.
+
+Every one thought that our troubles were over, as we were now on a
+railway, and whatever might happen would not have to walk any farther.
+These hopes were dispelled a few days later, when we heard of the two
+breaks in the line across the Taurus Mountains, which had not yet been
+completed, thus necessitating two more trips by road.
+
+We bivouacked in the open by the station, and early in the morning were
+told to get ready at once to go by the next train. An hour later, it
+appeared that we were not going till the following day. By this time we
+had ceased to pay much attention to Turkish orders, unless we saw that
+actual preparations were being made to carry them out. In the afternoon,
+the Turks took away all Hindu orderlies and servants, and informed us
+that all the doctors in our party, except one, were to stay here to look
+after the Indian troops on their arrival, as the latter were going to be
+put to work on continuing the railway farther east towards Nisibin. We
+were very sorry for our medical friends, since their prospects looked
+anything but cheerful. Local food supplied from the country round
+seemed almost non-existent, and the shops in the village had very
+little.
+
+By the time we reached Ras-el-Ain, we had completed 200 miles from Mosul
+in ten days. Most of us had walked half the distance, and bumped in
+carts over the other half. We had kept tolerably cheerful, apart from a
+few inveterate grousers; altogether we had survived wonderfully well,
+and had fared infinitely better than the troops from Kut, who were
+marching along in our tracks a few days behind us.
+
+From Ras-el-Ain we started for Aleppo the next morning, the journey
+taking nearly twelve hours. The only interesting place through which we
+passed was Jerrablus, the ancient Carchemish, where the line crosses the
+Euphrates by a fine bridge. There was not much sign of activity on the
+river banks, but before we left the station a complete train loaded with
+German motor-lorries had arrived, and after a few minutes continued its
+way eastwards.
+
+On reaching Aleppo, in the evening, the orderlies and servants were
+marched off by themselves, and after loading our kit on to carts we were
+driven away in gharries from the station. This seemed to be almost the
+height of luxury, and we thought that at last we had reached a place
+where we should be really well treated. The gharries took us to various
+small hotels, but when once inside we were not allowed to go out again.
+The Turks said that our kit would be delivered at once; some people
+waited up hoping for the arrival of their valises, but the wiser seized
+what bedding there was obtainable in the hotel, and laying it on a
+veranda made the best of a bad job, and went to sleep.
+
+In the morning, we were not allowed out to get any food. The hotel
+sharks refused to let boys come up with rolls, but tried to sell to us
+themselves at double the prices. However, we eventually got hold of a
+boy who threw up rolls from the street below to our veranda, and thus
+outwitted our enemies.
+
+All efforts to get out for breakfast, or to fetch our kit, proved
+unavailing, until about midday we were allowed to go a few yards down
+the street to where our kit had all been thrown inside a gateway the
+night before. Fortunately, although a good many valises had evidently
+been opened, very little had been stolen.
+
+It was not until four o'clock in the afternoon that we were finally
+allowed out in parties to a restaurant not a hundred yards away. While
+we were shut in, we had seen Phil May in the road and shouted to him;
+but, although he could see very well what we wanted, he never took the
+trouble to come into the hotel, much less to help us.
+
+The next day passed in much the same fashion, except that we were
+allowed out at midday, and no one was sorry when we were marched off
+back to the station early the following morning. Here we met the
+orderlies, who had fared much worse than we had. The first night they
+had been packed into a small room in some filthy barracks, and had
+suffered severely from the verminous pests which flourish in every
+Turkish building.
+
+A railway journey of a few hours brought us to Islahie, which was then
+the railhead for the journey over the Anti-Taurus range.
+
+There were some Austrian troops in Aleppo, and we now began to meet many
+more Germans. Turkish training-camps were much in evidence at the
+stations we passed after leaving Aleppo, and a good deal of material was
+going south on the railway. Most of this was going to Egypt to assist in
+the attack which ended so disastrously for the Turks.
+
+We spent the night at Islahie under some rough tent shelters. All our
+clothes had been fumigated in a steam waggon specially designed for the
+purpose.
+
+The following morning we noticed a crowd of men, women, and children
+moving off along the road and looking very wretched. Our guards said
+that these were Armenians who had been working on the line, but were
+being taken away to make room for our troops, who would be set to work
+in their place; they also added that these Armenians would be marched
+off into a waterless spot in the hills, and kept there till they died.
+
+We left our camp in the evening, travelling the first part of the way in
+carts, over one of the most bumpy roads ever seen. After a halt at the
+foot of the pass, we marched up, starting at midnight. There was a fine
+moon, and the scenery as we climbed higher became very grand. The road
+appeared to be only lately completed, and was probably due to German
+energy. As we neared the summit three or four bodies were seen lying in
+the ditch beside the road; these were evidently some of the Armenians we
+had seen starting off that morning. After descending the farther side,
+we bivouacked under trees in a pretty spot, and on the slope opposite
+saw the Armenians. Soon after they left and we did not see anything more
+of them. That evening we continued our way downhill, meeting several
+batches of sturdy Turkish youths who had just been called up and were
+on their way to training-camps near Aleppo. We were descending rapidly,
+and our drivers maintained a headlong gallop, with the result that two
+carts were completely overturned, but fortunately with no ill effects to
+the passengers. We finally bivouacked not far from the railhead, and
+reached the station of Mamouré early the following morning.
+
+The railway journey across the plain, through Adana, took some six
+hours, bringing us to Kulek Boghaz, a station within five miles of
+Tarsus. From this point the road journey over the main Taurus range
+began. All supplies were being brought over by German motor-lorries, and
+everything was being run by a German commandant. During the night
+several helmets were stolen and probably found their way to German
+soldiers, who either had no sun helmets or very inferior ones. The
+commandant did his best to recover them, but without success. He told us
+that we should leave the next morning at 9 o'clock. Punctually to the
+minute, a dozen motor-lorries rolled up, and we were soon speeding along
+the road towards the mountains. The road had been cut up dreadfully by
+the heavy traffic, so that we were jolted about almost as badly as we
+had been in the Turkish carts. The scenery grew finer as we ascended,
+until half-way we reached an open space amongst the hills, which the
+Germans had made the headquarters of their motor service, and christened
+"Camp Taurus." Here were enormous repair tents, one for each make of
+car, with living quarters and offices all of a most complete and
+elaborate type. After a halt here, we continued our way, still rising
+slowly until we entered the Cilician Gates, where the road just finds
+room to pass through a narrow rocky gorge. On the farther side, the
+descent begins at once, and is very steep in places. The road here was
+being repaired by bands of forced labourers, and had a much better
+surface.
+
+As we neared the railway again, at Bozanti, we noticed a few British
+prisoners. These were naval men taken in the Dardanelles. They said they
+were being paid, and apparently had not much to complain about. We were
+not allowed to stop and speak to them, and can only hope that they fared
+better than our own troops who were put to work shortly afterwards on
+the neighbouring sections of the line through the Taurus.
+
+At Bozanti, we were able to buy a few stores, some of which were British
+and had been left behind at Gallipoli when we evacuated the peninsula.
+With only a short wait, we were packed like sardines into a train, and
+the next stage of the journey began.
+
+The next morning we reached Konia, and were told to leave the train, but
+not to take our kit out, as the train was stopping for some time. The
+local commandant arrived, and proved to be the best Turkish officer we
+had met. Under his direction, we were taken to a hospital building,
+where there were two large rooms containing rough beds. These were a
+great delight after sleeping on the ground for weeks. The commandant, a
+little later, decided that we should be allowed to remain here until the
+next day, so that we might have a rest. If we had relied on Phil May,
+our kit would have all gone on in the afternoon to Constantinople, but
+luckily we just managed to rescue it in time.
+
+The greatest delight of Konia, from our point of view, was an hotel near
+the station, to which we were allowed to go for meals. This was run by a
+Frenchwoman, who was kindness itself, and could not do enough for us.
+Few of us will forget the delights of her omelets or the hot baths in a
+real long bath, the first we had seen since leaving India.
+
+The journey next day was more comfortable, as we had more room. After
+spending another night in the train, we arrived in the morning at Afion
+Kara Hissar, where a good number of Gallipoli prisoners were interned.
+In the evening, we reached Eski Chehir, the junction for the Angora
+line. Here all our Mohammedan servants were taken from us. We were
+conducted a little way into the town to the houses where a number of
+Indian Mohammedan officers, who had come along with the first party,
+were living. They seemed to have fared pretty well, and certainly had
+very good quarters. They were very glad to see us, and we anxiously
+inquired after their experiences by the way.
+
+Up to this point we had fondly imagined that Angora would be the end of
+our journey, but just before starting in the evening we were told that
+another ten days by road lay in front of us after reaching Angora. We
+were packed tight in the train, and rumbled on slowly through the night,
+arriving at Angora at eleven o'clock next day. Our kit was left to be
+brought in carts, while we were marched through the town to a big
+building over a mile beyond. This had been built as an Agricultural
+College, but latterly used as a Military School. Here we found the
+first party of officers, whom we had last seen at Shamrán camp. They
+seemed to have had a much more unpleasant journey than we had; whether
+it was because they had most of the staff officers amongst them, or had
+adopted the plan of telling every Turk and interpreter exactly what they
+thought of them, certain it is that they were not enjoying life, and
+when we arrived had not been allowed outside the building for two whole
+days.
+
+We had bidden farewell to Phil May with great delight at Eski Chehir,
+and had since then been in charge of a much pleasanter officer. Thanks
+to his efforts, we succeeded in getting permission to stay out of doors
+to cook and to go down to a neighbouring stream to bathe in the evening.
+We felt that the first party really owed us a great debt of gratitude in
+thus providing them with an opportunity of washing and getting a little
+fresh air.
+
+All our orderlies had been marched off from the station to some dirty
+Turkish barracks, so that we were entirely dependent on our own culinary
+efforts. Two days after our arrival, the first party left in carts for
+Yozgad, a distance of 100 miles due east on the road to Sivas and
+Erzerum. We remained for a week, being only allowed to go into the town
+once to make purchases. The journey to Kastamuni began under the best
+conditions. The weather was perfect, and as we were well over 2,000 feet
+above sea-level the sun was never too hot at midday. Also, we had a new
+commandant, who did what he could to help us. The distance in front of
+us was 140 miles, and we expected to take fully a week.
+
+The road led through countless orchards for the first few miles, and
+then on into more open country. Cherries and small apricots abounded,
+and supplies in general were plentiful; a very different state of
+affairs existed a year later, when prices had doubled and trebled, and
+in many cases advanced very much more. We reached a small village the
+first evening, and our commandant appeared much surprised that we should
+prefer to sleep in the open rather than in the very doubtful shelters
+attached to the local rest-house.
+
+The following day we reached Kalejik, a picturesque little place with
+the ruins of an old castle perched on a rocky pinnacle in the centre of
+the town. Some such ruin seems to keep watch over all Turkish towns. We
+had already seen similar old forts perched on hills at Afion Kara
+Hissar and Angora.
+
+Next morning, most of our carts were taken away, and we were given
+donkeys instead. A small moke cannot keep pace with a cart, and it is an
+open question whether riding the animal with a loading saddle is less
+fatiguing than walking along and driving it in front of one. Provided
+all one's kit had been put on a cart, the easiest way was often to let
+the moke go where it liked, and walk on oneself without it.
+
+Two days from Kalejik brought us to Changri, a prettily situated little
+place, which came suddenly into view, as we rounded a bend in the road,
+after traversing a very desolate and uninteresting stretch of country
+all day. We bivouacked under some trees by a stream, which, however, was
+not fit to drink from. The local commandant and Town Council paid us a
+visit. We were allowed to visit the bazaar, and generally made ourselves
+comfortable.
+
+In the morning, we were given more carts again, much to our delight, and
+continued our way northward. The road now began to cross some high
+ridges. On one of these we passed a police post, and a halt was made
+while our commandant stalked a few sitting pigeons with his shot-gun,
+eventually securing one after a great deal of trouble. Beyond
+sand-grouse, between Bagdad and Mosul, we had seen very little game of
+any sort since we left Kut.
+
+We camped by a stream, after a very steep and bumpy descent from a high
+ridge. It is extraordinary what treatment the light Turkish transport
+carts can stand without anything giving way.
+
+Our next march led us up a very long ascent, and proved the most
+enjoyable day of our whole journey. After ascending some distance, the
+road entered pine woods, and reminded us very strongly of roads near
+different hill stations in India. We halted at midday very near the top
+of the pass, which must be close on 4,000 feet, while the mountains on
+either side rise to another 2,000 feet. The views were glorious, and we
+wished it might have been possible to stay longer in such scenery. By
+evening, we had dropped down a long distance on the other side and were
+nearly out of the woods again when we halted for our last bivouac.
+
+We were now within ten miles of Kastamuni, and by eleven o'clock next
+morning, July 5th, were in sight of the place. The old castle, standing
+on its rocky crest, was the first sight which greeted us as we looked
+down into the valley from the top of the ridge along which we had come.
+The town, spreading up and down the valley round the base of the castle
+rock, seemed very much larger than any Turkish town we had seen since
+leaving Aleppo. The valley was green with cultivated fields and trees,
+while the hillsides were bare and brown.
+
+We were halted just outside the town, while a number of local gendarmes
+formed up on each side of the road. After a long wait, we thus
+progressed in state into the town and through the bazaar to our
+quarters, which proved to be houses from which the former Greek
+inhabitants had been ejected. In the end, although somewhat crowded, we
+found ourselves each with a bed, bedding, and a little other furniture.
+Most of us had not slept in a bed for eight months or more, apart
+perhaps from a few days in hospital, and all we desired at the moment
+was one long rest.
+
+During the last week, which had been by far the pleasantest of the whole
+trek, we had averaged twenty miles a day. Our journey altogether had
+been nearly 1,700 miles, and was probably the longest distance across
+country any prisoners of war have had to travel to the place of their
+confinement.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+LIFE IN KASTAMUNI
+
+_July 1916--August 1917_
+
+
+On arrival in Kastamuni, we were divided into two groups, one being
+accommodated in a large building, formerly a Greek school, with one or
+two adjacent houses, and the other in a number of houses in a street
+lower down the hill. Both places were on the edge of the town in the
+Greek quarter. The schoolhouse was perched high up and commanded a
+splendid view across the town in the valley towards the hills, beyond
+which lay the Black Sea--only some 40 miles away.
+
+The houses were built up on a wooden frame-work, the bricks being thrown
+in to fill up the intervening spaces in a most casual manner. The best
+houses were covered with stucco; but, however good in appearance, each
+house in Turkey has its own numerous population of small inhabitants. An
+Austrian lady whom we met assured us that her house was the only one in
+the town free from these pests, and we could well believe it.
+
+The town itself is shut in by the valley and presents a confused jumble
+of houses, with almost innumerable mosques, and in the centre one or two
+large Government buildings. The mosques are not particularly beautiful,
+there being no golden domes or blue tilework. The most pretentious have
+plain grey stone minarets, while the smaller ones have to be content
+with little steeples of wood. During Ramazan a ring of lights is kept
+burning at night round each minaret, and gives the town a strange
+appearance, as these are the only lights showing, there being no such
+thing as street lamps, and very few lights in private houses--with
+kerosine at a prohibitive price.
+
+After the weary march from Kut, we were only too delighted to get into
+our new quarters, and sleeping in a bed again was a luxury not soon to
+be forgotten. A restaurant had been arranged, and we found a very good
+meal ready for us soon after arrival. Unfortunately, this was much the
+best repast we obtained from the contractor, and when it came to
+arranging a daily messing scheme we had to be content with a very
+moderate programme. However, every one had got so tired of scraping
+along, cooking and foraging for themselves on the journey up, that any
+sort of plan by which some one else would do the work was not to be
+refused, even if we were to be done over it.
+
+During the summer of 1916, food in the town was comparatively cheap,
+eggs being a halfpenny each or less, and good white flour about sixpence
+a pound. Fruit was to be had in prolific quantities, the cherries being
+especially good. But no one takes any trouble to cultivate fruit in this
+part of Turkey. There are grapes, melons, peaches, apples and pears in
+great profusion, but all of the commonest kind. Had the country any
+communications worth the name, no doubt it would be different, but, as
+it is, the Turk is content with what grows by itself and does not need
+any special attention. The local taste in over-ripe and bad pears was
+most surprising. For weeks one would see baskets of rotting pears in the
+bazaar on market days and the country people enjoying them.
+
+The ruined castle on its rocky pinnacle must have dated back to very
+early times; it is now used as a "look-out" station and has three
+ancient guns, which are fired as an alarm in case of fire and at other
+moments of importance, such as the first sight of the new moon at the
+end of Ramazan. The greatest wonder to us was that the whole town had
+not been burnt down long ago, since all the bazaar houses were wooden
+and dry as tinder. The fire brigade consisted of one prehistoric manual
+pump which was carried about on the shoulders of five or six youths,
+with a scratch collection of hose and buckets. On one occasion a major
+of the S. & T. Corps was so overcome with laughter on seeing this
+apparition that the commandant, feeling much insulted, had him confined
+to the house for a fortnight.
+
+This was our first commandant, a very ignorant specimen, who, so report
+said, had been a farmer in the Caucasus. He was a most depressing sight
+at all times. Most Turkish officers only shave on Thursdays, and he was
+no exception to the rule. His trousers invariably swept the ground; he
+always wore goloshes several sizes too large and an old overcoat. He
+would shuffle about with his hands in his pockets, his shoulders hunched
+up, looking the picture of misery. Yet, notwithstanding his apparent
+dejection, he was making quite a good thing out of us, as we found out
+later on. The restaurant contractor was paying him about £30 a month,
+and, between them, they were charging us rent for our quarters, which
+was quite contrary to all rules. Another little source of income was
+making us each pay for a 5-piastre receipt stamp for our monthly pay
+instead of a 2-1/2d.
+
+This commandant knew no language except Turkish, and consequently an
+interpreter was needed on all occasions. At the start this was a Greek,
+who made great protestations of his friendliness to us; but we very soon
+found him to be a double-faced blackguard doing his best to make a good
+thing out of us by arranging for commissions with the shopkeepers with
+whom we dealt.
+
+Fortunately for us, early in 1917, a Turkish colonel--Zeur Bey, from
+Constantinople--arrived unexpectedly on a visit of inspection, with the
+result that the commandant was promptly dismissed and matters regarding
+overcharges for house rent put right. The commandant was said to have
+been seen on his knees before the colonel imploring forgiveness. This at
+all events was the story of Sherif Bey, the second in command, who was
+by way of being very anxious to do all he could for us. On our march
+from Angora to Kastamuni he had certainly done his best for us, but
+later on we were forced to distrust him.
+
+Turkish officers, as a rule, have very good manners and promise one
+almost anything without the least idea of ever keeping their word. They
+speak French with a very good accent, which makes one give them credit
+for knowing a great deal more of that language than is usually the case.
+It is quite impossible to describe the uniforms worn by officers, as one
+so seldom sees two dressed alike. All material being so scarce and
+expensive, uniforms were made from almost anything, and there being no
+such person as a provost-marshal no one could interfere. Consequently,
+one saw some officers dressed in a highly picturesque style, looking as
+if they had just been taking a part in "The Chocolate Soldier" or "The
+Balkan Princess," and others whom one could only recognize from
+shopkeepers by their badges of rank.
+
+The Greek interpreter was the first one of the original staff to depart.
+After him, two very much better fellows were sent us. One of these was a
+young Turk named Remzi, who had been a naval cadet in Constantinople
+when the war broke out--and still cherished the fond hope of one day
+being an officer in the British Navy, for which he had the most profound
+veneration. Unfortunately, in trying to help us, he wrote to
+Constantinople; got into trouble with his seniors, and was sent away.
+We were thus left with the second man, an Armenian, who was always
+called "Napoleon" from his likeness to the Great Man. Napoleon was very
+cautious, but, considering the difficulty of his own position, he did us
+very well.
+
+After our first commandant had disappeared, his successor arrived in the
+shape of a very small, but very stout and cheery little man, named
+Fattah Bey. He proved to be a very good fellow and things were soon
+running much more pleasantly. A great point in his favour was that he
+spoke German, and we were thus able to dispense with an interpreter.
+Capt. H., of the I.A.R.O., took charge of him on most occasions, and
+after we had had him a few weeks he was becoming quite pro-British.
+
+The greatest events in our life were undoubtedly the arrival of a mail
+or parcels. The letters we received in July 1916, soon after our
+arrival, were the first news most of us had had from our friends at home
+since before the siege began in Kut nearly eight months earlier. On an
+average, letters came through every ten days or so, the quickest time
+taken from home, via Switzerland, Vienna and Constantinople, being 25
+days. Parcels travelled by the same route, but were very much longer in
+making their appearance. At first they arrived in three to four months,
+but gradually took longer and longer, until finally they were eight and
+nine months on the way. The reason for this delay was to be found in
+Vienna, where all parcels were transhipped, and apparently thrown into a
+depot until such time as the Austrian officials decided to send a few
+more on. Any big operations on the Italian front had the immediate
+effect of stopping all parcels and sometimes letters as well. There were
+exceedingly few cases of anything having been actually stolen and, up to
+a certain date, officers had received nearly all parcels sent from home.
+
+Soon after our arrival, we received a number of gifts through the
+American Embassy in Constantinople, who were at that time looking after
+our interests. These consisted of thin cotton things for the summer,
+and, when wearable, were of considerable use. Unfortunately, they were
+much too small, and it was a very lucky man who could wear the trousers
+he was given. Later on, more clothes arrived, these being thick winter
+garments which, although not providing the same amount of amusement,
+fitted us better and were a great godsend, since it was not until the
+New Year that people began to receive the clothes they wanted from home.
+
+The winter in Kastamuni and, in fact, over most of Asia Minor can be
+very severe; but it is a dry and healthy cold. In February 1917, we had
+well over 20 degrees of frost for days, and during the following winter
+the temperature at Changri went down to 6 degrees below zero. Indeed, it
+would have been hard to find a better climate than Kastamuni, which was
+2,500 feet above the sea. The rainfall there was very small and confined
+almost entirely to March and April. The summer temperature was very much
+the same as in England, but drier.
+
+As one gets nearer to the Black Sea coast, the rainfall increases and
+the vegetation gets thicker. Between Angora and Changri there are wide
+stretches of almost desert land. At Kastamuni we had pine woods and
+shrubs on the hills, while all the valleys were extensively irrigated.
+On the Black Sea coast itself the climate is much milder in winter and
+there are thick woods of beech, oak and fir with heavy undergrowth.
+
+Apart from the kitchen, which always has a huge open chimney, there were
+no fireplaces of the ordinary kind in the houses. All heating in winter
+is done by stoves of sheet iron with a chimney leading out through the
+nearest wall. These stoves, fed with wood, give out a tremendous heat
+for a short time, but it is very hard to maintain anything approaching
+an even temperature. Wood was plentiful during the winter of 1916-17,
+and we used to buy it in the form of whole logs. These we had sawn up by
+two Armenians into short lengths, which we then split with an axe. This
+gave us a good deal of exercise during the cold winter mornings.
+Unfortunately, the next year, wood had become scarce and much more
+expensive and all prisoners suffered considerably in consequence. A good
+deal of charcoal is used for cooking, but we saw no coal being used in
+the district, even the railway up to Angora being largely dependent on
+wood.
+
+After a few months at the restaurant, the contractor began to put up
+prices and most of us demurred. This finally led to the majority going
+on strike and deciding to mess themselves, as we were allowed to by the
+rules. The old commandant, however, and the contractor, had no idea of
+accepting the alternative if they could possibly help it. Consequently,
+we were first forbidden to cook in the kitchens of our own houses, for
+fear we should set the chimneys and the houses on fire. To get over
+this, we made fireplaces in the back gardens or yards behind the houses.
+Other little pin-pricks of the same kind were tried, but we finally got
+our own way, and found that our mess bills were reduced to nearly a half
+what they had been before. We had a number of British orderlies with us,
+who did our cooking and waited on us. To start with, there was some
+difficulty in getting a separate room as a dining-room for each mess,
+but eventually we settled down and furnished on an economical plan, our
+carpenters making benches, tables, etc.
+
+The restaurant contractor was so disgusted at our strike that he closed
+down altogether for two or three days, thus throwing out into the cold
+the few who had remained faithful to him on any conditions rather than
+do their own catering. There was, somewhat naturally, a good deal of
+ill-feeling between the two parties in consequence, and it took time to
+die out. In the end, the restaurant supporters had to start a mess of
+their own and came into line with the rest of us.
+
+We were allowed a fair amount of liberty, although at the start things
+did not look promising, the old commandant telling us we should be only
+able to go one short walk a week. Actually we were allowed in the road
+for a hundred yards or so outside our houses and could go to the bazaar
+or Turkish bath any day by getting a sentry to go with us.
+
+The Hamáms, or Turkish baths, of which there are a great many, are not
+the elaborately furnished places one sees at home, but consist of two
+vaulted chambers, supplied with vapour. Round the side are ledges on
+which one sits, and stone basins with a supply of hot and cold water.
+After being stewed in the hottest chamber for a quarter of an hour, one
+passes out to the outer room, where an aged attendant is generally ready
+to operate with buckets of cold water. Next one proceeds to the
+dressing-rooms and reclines comfortably swathed in towels, while Turkish
+coffee is brought round. After the first few months, sugar became so
+expensive that it was no longer provided, and the coffee seemed very
+poor in consequence. Altogether, in a place where one had plenty of time
+to spare, the Hamám provided a very pleasant way of spending a morning.
+
+The Turks used to put up numbers of rules for our benefit. These were
+written out in the best English the interpreter could achieve, which was
+never very clear. As a rule, we did not pay very much attention to
+them, and they, on the other hand, never seemed to care either. The rule
+was on the board, and, if any officious officer was to come round from
+Constantinople, he could always be shown it, and assured it was strictly
+obeyed.
+
+On one occasion a notice was suddenly put up, informing us that all
+lights henceforth must be put out at 9.30 p.m. It was thought advisable
+to do so the first night; the second night, the time was about 9.45; and
+after that we continued to go to bed when we pleased, and were never
+bothered any more about it.
+
+Owing to the tremendously high price of kerosine, Daylight Saving soon
+came into force, and saved us a great deal.
+
+The sentries, on the whole, were a very good-natured lot and would never
+have worried us with restrictions as far as they themselves were
+concerned. They were mostly old men who had served in previous wars and,
+until called up, were living on their own small farms. One of the best
+of them was "Johnnie Walker," a little man who had a most extraordinary
+stride and could walk any of us to a standstill. We always tried to get
+him when going for a long walk, knowing that from personal motives he
+would never stop us going a good distance. Another favourite was
+"Ginger," a very harmless old fellow with sandy whiskers. As one went
+past, he would lean over and whisper confidentially: "Ginger
+fennah?"--Is Ginger a bad fellow? Every now and then they went to their
+homes on leave and came back with a few pounds of butter or a bag of
+wheatmeal, which they sold to us without much difficulty.
+
+On our arrival, the only weapons the guard possessed were ancient
+pinfire rifles, firing a huge lump of lead. Each man had exactly two
+rounds in his possession. Later on some rather younger men came, armed
+with captured Russian rifles.
+
+We soon managed to hire a field for football. It was very stony and by
+no means level, but, nevertheless, was a great acquisition. As a rule,
+each group of houses used it three days a week. To start with, we only
+had a Soccer case and no bladder. We stuffed the case with grass and
+played a very modified form of Rugger, where collaring was disallowed on
+account of the stones, and punting and place kicking forbidden in order
+to preserve the life of the ball. After some weeks we got some proper
+footballs from Constantinople, and others came eventually from home. We
+played matches against the other group of houses, Regulars _v._
+Irregulars, and every other thing we could think of. Soccer Sixes caused
+much excitement and a local firm of bookmakers, who came into existence
+for the occasion, did a large business.
+
+We could always rely on getting out somewhere every day. During the
+early summer we had splendid walks two days a week over the hills in the
+mornings. These long walks did not suit everybody, and a gentle form of
+meandering had to be organized for the "slugs." On one celebrated
+occasion, we walked out about five miles, taking our lunch, and had a
+very cheery picnic, but this was never allowed again, and in July 1917
+all long walks were suddenly stopped, and we were barely allowed outside
+the boundaries of the town.
+
+For news of the outer world, we were dependent upon the local telegrams,
+which the best Turkish scholars used to translate, and also upon the
+"Hilal," a German-run paper, printed in Constantinople. This paper, of
+which we used to receive the French Edition, had been started for
+propaganda purposes at the beginning of the war. The news was,
+naturally, very one-sided, but, reading between the lines, one could
+tell fairly well what was the position on the Western Front. In
+addition, we had maps, and could follow the places mentioned, when, as
+during the Somme offensive, the Germans, "according to our preconceived
+plan," took up a position some miles in rear of their last. A serial
+story which ran for some time in this paper was called "L'évadé de
+Tsingtau," and gave the adventures of a German, who having escaped from
+Tsingtau after the Japanese had taken it, reached America, was caught
+while trying to cross to Germany, spent some time in Donnington Hall,
+but finally succeeded in escaping, and swam off from near Tilbury to a
+Dutch ship lying in the river, thus getting clear away. Whether true or
+not, it made a wonderful story.
+
+News carefully camouflaged in our letters from home invariably arrived
+safely; in fact, the Turks never troubled to censor anything in the
+letters we received. On the other hand, every now and then some
+officious creature in Constantinople would systematically cut up our
+long letters, which we were allowed to write twice a month, and only
+send on the first two and last two lines.
+
+There were always plenty of rumours amongst the Greek shopkeepers in the
+bazaar. For instance, we were told the British had taken Bagdad long
+before they did, and our troops in Palestine were always said to be
+within three or four marches of Aleppo; the Russians were just outside
+Sivas, and Trieste had been taken by the Italians. The Turks themselves
+never believed these stories, and, in fact, even when the armistice was
+signed, many of them in country districts had not heard that Bagdad was
+in our possession. They received no letters from their friends at the
+front, no casualty lists were published, and the only news that seemed
+to reach them by post was a few letters from Turks we had taken to Burma
+as prisoners, who seemed to be very happy and contented.
+
+The country people never showed any "hate" against us, but the
+authorities used to make this an excuse for curtailing our walks, saying
+how fanatical the village people were in the neighbourhood.
+
+Apart from football matches, we employed ourselves in various ways.
+There were soon two or three well-established firms of carpenters, who
+did a great deal of work and made a lot of furniture. Others took to
+cobbling, and had plenty to do to keep our boots in order. A good many
+studied various languages, but Turkish was not very popular, as no one
+expected ever to want it again when once they had left the country.
+
+We had quite a good library, and books came through without much trouble
+in parcels from home.
+
+A long series of lectures were held during the winter, every one who
+could do so lecturing to the rest of us. It is wonderful what a
+comprehensive programme can be formed when one is really put to it.
+
+Another intellectual effort was a debating society; but this did not
+have a very long life.
+
+Our greatest achievement was undoubtedly the band. This was started in
+the spring of 1917, under the auspices of our new commandant, who was
+very keen about it. At first there were only two or three violins which
+had been discovered in the bazaar, then others were found, also some
+clarionets; drums and banjos were soon made, and, finally--greatest
+triumph of all--two 'cellos and a double bass were manufactured by our
+most progressive firm of carpenters. Altogether, the band numbered about
+sixteen. At the start they had no music, and Lieut. Parsons, R.F.A., who
+conducted, had to score the parts for a number of pieces, most of which
+were wonderfully successful. Later on, music came from home, and
+concerts were given twice a week.
+
+We even had a little dancing on one or two occasions, and one day the
+commandant brought two or three Greek and Armenian ladies. This was such
+a success that he became very excited and declared "Next veek plenty
+lady kom." Life seemed to be improving all round, but it was too good to
+last, and suddenly everything was stopped. The commandant got into hot
+water with the other Turkish authorities in the town, who had probably
+reported him behind his back to Constantinople. Our walks were suddenly
+curtailed and no long walks allowed. Had the little man been able to
+stand up for himself, things would have been much better, but he was
+much too scared to take a strong line, and a few days later departed for
+Eski-Chehir to take the place of the commandant there, who, in turn, was
+to come to Kastamuni.
+
+During the winter of 1916, prices began to rise rapidly in the bazaar
+and this went on all through 1917, until in 1918 all prisoners had great
+difficulty in getting food, even in the new camps, which were said to be
+better off in this respect than Kastamuni.
+
+When we first arrived, there was a small amount of silver money in
+circulation, the smallest notes which were just being introduced being
+20 and 5 piastres--3s. 4d. and 10d. in ordinary times. Not long
+afterwards, these were followed by 2-1/2 and 1 piastre notes, which
+carried pictures of the Dardanelles and Kut on the back, Kut being quite
+unrecognizable. For smaller change recourse had to be taken to stamps
+and by midsummer of 1917 no coins of any sort were to be seen.
+
+Money came through to us in various ways, but the best exchange we could
+get was by cashing undated cheques with the Greek shopkeepers in the
+town, who gave us 160 piastres to the pound, whereas through the Dutch
+Embassy we could only get 140, the exchange rate before the war being
+112. The shopkeepers would not be able to cash these cheques till the
+end of the war, and it says something for the reputation of a British
+cheque that they would accept them on such conditions. They undoubtedly
+regarded such cheques as being a very much safer asset than the Turkish
+paper money, which was the only alternative, and, at the end of the war,
+would very likely be suddenly repudiated by a paternal Government.
+
+We were paid by the Turks at the rate they pay their own officers, the
+equivalent of this being deducted from our accounts by the War Office.
+
+On the way up from Kut we were given one month's pay in Bagdad, which
+for senior officers was on a comparatively generous scale. However, on
+reaching Kastamuni, these unfortunates were told that the Bagdad rates
+were quite wrong, and they were now to pay up the difference; this took
+several months in many cases.
+
+Happily for us, soon after our arrival, the Red Cross came to our
+assistance, working through the American Embassy in Constantinople. They
+gave us £T.3 a month, which, with a subaltern's allowance of £T.7 as pay
+from the Turks, made it just possible to carry on.
+
+As food got more expensive, the Red Cross increased their allowance to
+£T.5 a month, and had finally to increase this still further.
+
+In May and June 1917, some additional orderlies arrived; these men had
+been in other camps up till then, and were not all Kut prisoners, some
+having been taken in the Dardanelles and others in Egypt. They brought
+dreadful stories of the treatment of the troops during the first few
+months, and it became clear that at least two-thirds of the Kut garrison
+were already dead. The last news they had heard was that all fit
+prisoners were being sent back to the North of Syria to work on the
+railway there. As conditions were very bad in that district when we came
+through in 1916, no one can say what those who returned a year later had
+to go through. This area was considered as one under military
+operations, and was, therefore, excluded from the agreement finally come
+to by which the Dutch Embassy in Constantinople was to inspect the
+various camps.
+
+Unfortunately, some of these new orderlies contracted typhus on their
+way to Kastamuni, at one of the dirty halting-places, and three
+succumbed. They were buried beside three officers whom we had already
+laid to rest, in a little cemetery at the top of the hill overlooking
+the town, near the slope where the Greeks and Armenians are buried.
+Wooden crosses were at first put up over the graves, but these were at
+once torn up and stolen by the Turkish peasants. We then obtained heavy
+slabs of stone, on which a cross was carved and the names cut. A wall
+was built round the little spot, a number of officers going up every
+morning and working hard until it was completed. Now that no British
+prisoners are left in Kastamuni, one hopes that the little cemetery will
+be allowed to remain undisturbed on the bare hillside.
+
+During the summer of 1917, a number of officers were in favour of
+getting the Turks to move the camp from Kastamuni to some place nearer
+to the railway, as it was thought that it would then be easier to obtain
+supplies of wood and fuel during the coming winter. It is doubtful if
+this would have been the case, but an official request was sent to
+Constantinople. Towards the end of July 1917, our liberties were
+considerably curtailed for no apparent reason, and after the escape of
+our party, on August 8th, very severe restrictions were imposed.
+
+Nowhere in Turkey could life in 1917-18 be considered amenable, since
+food was so short in all districts. This, combined with the depreciation
+in the paper money, kept prices very high and made messing a great
+problem; if parcels could have got through more quickly from home it
+would have made a big difference.
+
+At the end of September, the first batch of officers was moved to
+Changri, and the remainder followed early in October. At Changri
+accommodation was provided in a dirty Turkish barrack, which, besides
+needing very extensive cleansing, required much glass in the windows.
+Shortly afterwards, two-thirds of the officers left for Gedos, a small
+place about a hundred miles east of Smyrna, where they were placed on
+parole, and given liberty to go where they pleased unguarded. The
+remainder stayed for some months at Changri, where they had managed to
+make themselves fairly comfortable, although only allowed to go out to a
+neighbouring field for exercise. Later, however, they were sent to
+Yozgad, the camp to which the first half of the Kut officers had
+originally been sent.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+ESCAPE FROM KASTAMUNI
+
+
+Returning to events in Kastamuni, in November 1916 a little more housing
+accommodation had become available for us, and as a result I found
+myself sharing a good room with Keeling, a lieutenant in the I.A.R.O.
+One evening, soon afterwards, I asked him if he would make an effort
+with me to reach the Russians if, as we hoped, they should advance
+further west from their lines, which were then running due south to
+Erzinjan from a point a little way west of Trebizond. He replied that he
+had long been thinking of it, and had made a start towards preparing for
+such an effort by carefully preserving two 1 lb. tins of chocolate which
+he had received from home!
+
+At that time such a journey meant a distance of 300 miles across country
+from Kastamuni, and we considered it quite hopeless in view of the
+mountainous country to be passed. It was also obvious that any attempt
+to get a long distance across country would stand a much better chance
+if made in the summer time. It would be impossible to carry enough food
+and we should have to fall back on such crops, fruit and vegetables as
+might be ripe and obtainable. We thought April or May would be the
+earliest possible month. Another alternative was to get to the coast,
+only 38 miles as the crow flies, and then to steal a boat. This
+necessitated having one man in the party who knew how to sail a boat,
+and added a big risk in the very fact of having to launch a boat
+secretly and get away from a coast which as far as we could hear was
+well guarded.
+
+The general opinion was that it was quite hopeless to try to get away.
+This belief was shared by the senior officers and, under pressure from
+the Turkish commandant, most people gave their parole not to try to
+escape under present conditions. About ten of us refused: some because
+they believed such an act was definitely against Army rules, and the
+others, like ourselves, because they hoped for a chance to get away and
+considered that they were justified in taking such a chance if it seemed
+to offer any possibility of success. Pressure was brought to bear upon
+us by the Turks to change our views; but we remained firm. We were told
+our liberty would be curtailed; we would be put in a separate house by
+ourselves; while the others were to get additional liberty. What
+actually happened was exactly nothing, and we all went on precisely as
+before. It appeared to be merely a dodge on the part of the Turks to
+save themselves trouble and responsibility. From time to time, owing to
+various good reasons, many others withdrew their parole, and by the date
+we departed--August 8th, 1917--nearly half the officers must have
+followed suit.
+
+In the meanwhile K. and I had been trying to collect information and had
+been sounding a few other officers. It was very hard to get anything
+which was at all trustworthy: some reports said there were no boats on
+the coast, others that a boat could probably be obtained. One Greek told
+us that it would be impossible to get through to the Russian lines, as
+the people east of Samsun were so wild and savage. This man was making
+plenty of money out of us in his professional capacity, and evidently
+did not wish any disturbances between us and the Turks to imperil his
+tranquillity and source of gain. We were not therefore much influenced
+by his fears.
+
+Maps were a necessity, and the only one we had was on a scale of 32
+miles to an inch. I made tracings of this, so as to have duplicate
+copies, but the scale was too small to be of much use beyond showing the
+general trend of the country. I also succeeded in making a compass of a
+rough description by fixing a dial to some magnetic needles and
+suspending it with a thread. Fortunately, however, a little later, we
+discovered a shop in the town where we could buy some cheap but
+tolerably serviceable compasses, and secured several of these, taking
+care that the sentry with us did not see what we were buying. The best
+map we had seen was hanging up in our commandant's office. This was a
+German one and to a scale of about seven miles to an inch. No
+opportunity occurred, unfortunately, of being able to copy it. It showed
+us, however, a large number of farms and villages sprinkled over the
+countryside. The Russians had advanced no further, and the only plan at
+all feasible seemed to be to get a boat on the coast and make for
+Trebizond.
+
+As the summer began our discussions took a more practical shape, and we
+got in touch with people who were in a position to know something
+trustworthy. One of those we approached was an interned Ally. Under
+various pretexts I succeeded in getting a sentry to come with me to his
+house, which was strictly against the rules, saying I wanted to buy a
+guitar. On arrival he produced the guitar, and while pretending to try
+it we discussed the possibility of getting away. He considered that it
+would be possible to get a boat on the coast at Ineboli and suggested
+sending someone he could trust to find out how things stood and if
+possible to make arrangements. Conversation was not too easy, as his
+knowledge of English was very sketchy and I knew nothing of his
+language; also the sentry was present, so that everything had to appear
+to be about the guitar and no names of places mentioned aloud. A little
+money and cigarettes to the sentry ensured his not talking later about
+where we had been, and I endeavoured to get the same man on the next
+occasion. One day at this house I met a fellow countryman who as a
+civilian had been interned at Constantinople. For some reason the Turks
+had become more suspicious and he had been packed off to Kastamuni. He
+gave me some useful information about the state of the country further
+east, but was not at all hopeful of our getting through. I did not see
+him again, as he was naturally very loth to be seen speaking to any of
+us, as that would mean his being sent out to live in one of the small
+villages away from every vestige of civilization. Meanwhile K. had been
+interviewing one or two people whom we thought might be trusted. For
+this purpose an appointment was generally made at the Hamám, or Turkish
+bath. We were allowed to go to these baths, of which there were a large
+number in the town, whenever we liked, and, as the sentry always stayed
+in the entrance hall, one could speak freely to anyone inside. On the
+whole these Allies recommended us not to make any attempt, one saying
+that had it been possible he himself would of course have gone long ago.
+Actually, they were afraid of trying anything of the sort or being in
+any way implicated by us.
+
+We discussed the proposal of my friend with some of the others and
+decided to try his suggestion. Accordingly ten of us collected about 50
+liras--one lira equals 18s. 6d. nominally--which was handed to him. He
+in turn was to arrange with a Greek who was going to the coast and
+promised to bring back the information we needed. After some delay he
+finally departed, and, as we had feared, never turned up again.
+
+Some of those who had subscribed considered any attempt without
+previously obtaining a boat to be hopeless and, when the Greek never
+returned, the number who were keen to go was reduced to half a dozen.
+Much discussion followed as to the size of the party, whether there
+should be two parties and who should go in which, and what routes should
+be followed. Eventually only four of us prepared to start, the others
+promising to give us all the support they could. Our party now consisted
+of Captains R. J. Tipton, R.F.C., R. T. Sweet, 2/7th Ghurkas, Lieut. E.
+H. Keeling, and myself, both of the I.A.R.O. "Tip" had been taken in
+Egypt, while we three had all been in Kut.
+
+There were two possible ways of getting out of the camp, or rather away
+from the street in which we lived, and either seemed fairly easy to
+arrange.
+
+In order to get our provisions ready, we had to take one or two of the
+British orderlies into our confidence. We decided after much scheming
+that we would take 20 lb. of food each, consisting of 11 lb. of
+biscuits, 2-1/2 lb. of cheese, 2-1/2 lb. of smoked meat, 1-3/4 lb. of
+chocolate, 1-1/2 lb. of Horlick's Malted Milk and the remainder of soup
+squares, cocoa and sugar, with a box of tea tabloids. The biscuits were
+made of good white flour, for which we had at that time to pay an
+exorbitant price as it was almost unobtainable; butter and sugar, which
+were also appallingly expensive, were added. Some were made with
+raisins, all being baked as hard as possible to save weight. These, with
+raisins, proved much the most popular subsequently. Our mess cook,
+Gunner Prosser, R.F.A., made most of the biscuits and was very keen to
+do all he could to help us. In order to keep things dark we told as few
+people as possible, but several people must have suspected us before we
+finally took our departure. The all-important question of the food to be
+carried caused much discussion before the final schedule was drawn up.
+Some were for taking one solid lump of duff instead of biscuits, but the
+latter won the day as containing less water and being therefore of more
+value weight for weight. K. had a profound belief in Horlick's Malted
+Milk, which was fully justified by our subsequent experience. For some
+days prior to our departure a notice on the board, which was used by
+people who wished to exchange contents of parcels from home, informed
+all and sundry that Lt. K. could offer a very large variety of articles,
+ranging from honey to socks, in exchange for Malted Milk. This resulted
+in most of our supply being obtained. The question of meat was
+difficult, as tinned stuff received from home was too heavy and there
+was nothing to be got in the bazaar but smoked mutton, which was not
+very appetizing. Eventually, we decided on the mutton. We had a good
+many soup squares of different kinds, but on the journey we wished we
+had had more cocoa instead. We decided to pack as much food as possible
+in small bags, for which some puggaree cloth came in handy, and an old
+pillow-case made a good receptacle for the biscuits. K. spent a long
+time sewing up small bags and in generally thinking out and preparing
+for all eventualities.
+
+In the event of our being forced to buy food, we had decided that our
+only chance was to pretend we were Germans, since the country people,
+while seeing we were not Turks, would be too ignorant to know any
+difference between Briton and Hun. This also fell in well with our plan
+of going in uniform. To make things more secure we forged a passport.
+This was written out by Captain Rich, 120th Infantry, who knew Turkish
+fairly well, and purported to be a letter from the Army commander at
+Angora to Hauptmann Hermann von Below, who, with three German orderlies,
+was said to be travelling on a surveying expedition. It was requested
+that the utmost facilities should be given him in his work. The name of
+the Army commander we had managed to obtain correctly, and this was
+signed in a different hand and ink. A seal was also appended, as is
+usual in all Turkish documents, and suitably smudged so that the name
+which did not correspond with the signature might be illegible.
+
+A volume dealing with woodcraft was perused by K., who discovered that
+the ordinary type of rock lichen was a highly nutritious food and, also,
+that nearly all forms of toad-stool were equally useful. We hoped not to
+need such emergency rations and, fortunately, never got to that stage in
+our subsequent adventures. Over and above the 20 lb. of food we
+estimated that each one would need to carry 10 lb. more in kit and
+equipment, the former comprising a spare pair of socks, a "woolly" and
+vest or something similar, and the latter a haversack and waterbottle,
+matches, knife, spoon and soap. In addition we carried a sail, about 40
+feet of light rope, a light axe head, two canteens, a safety razor,
+housewife, nails and thread for repairing boots, maps, and compasses.
+These were divided up into equal weights between the four of us. The
+sail was rather a work of art. It was made in two pieces from a bed
+sheet, the lining of two Wolseley valises and a couple of towels. With
+the help of a sailor friend, Lieut. Nicholson, R.N.R., we roped it all
+round. It measured about 10 ft. by 7 ft. 6 in., and weighed complete
+about 7 lb. The idea was that, having discovered a boat and if need be
+hewn down a small tree for a mast, we would paddle off from the coast
+and put up the sail as quickly as possible after sewing the two pieces
+together. Tip was to be our navigator, as he had done a good deal of
+sailing in pre-war days.
+
+As Sweet was the only man with a rucksack, we three had to make our own.
+This meant a good deal of laborious sewing. My own was laid on the
+foundation of a khaki drill bag originally received in Mesopotamia with
+gifts from the ladies of Bombay; this was reinforced with an old pair of
+braces and the necessary webbing sewn on. It proved a most useful
+article and stood the journey wonderfully well, although getting
+somewhat soiled in appearance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE FIRST NIGHT
+
+
+It was not the easiest thing in the world to hold our meetings,
+accomplish our sewing and complete the sail without being interrupted by
+other people or giving the show away. Our excuses for keeping many
+people out of our room must have seemed rather thin on many occasions,
+and certainly gave rise to suspicion in one quarter. One day the
+interpreter Napoleon came to the door, but luckily suspected nothing and
+departed. Napoleon had been of great service to us after the wretched
+Greek interpreter we had had on our arrival, and we hoped our departure
+would not get him into trouble. We instructed our orderly to endeavour
+to put Napoleon off the track the morning after we had gone. The rule
+was that we had to report to him at ten in the morning as well as at
+night. Very often people omitted to do so, but in that case he generally
+wandered round quietly until he had seen they were still present. Our
+confederates amongst the officers promised to say we had all gone up the
+hill to work at the cemetery to which a party went every day, to
+complete the building of a wall round the graves of the three officers
+and three men whom we had there laid to rest.
+
+In addition, we left a letter supposed to be written by Sweet to me,
+talking of our proposed route and saying that he agreed we had much
+better go towards Sivas, and giving a number of villages _en route_.
+This was supposed to be destroyed, and was to be found by accident by
+our orderly in a crumpled condition when and not until our escape was
+fully realized by the Turks. Our exit was to be made from a side door
+into an alley leading off the main street. This door was nailed up, but,
+like so many things in Turkey, it was done in a very slip-shod fashion
+with two boards having only two nails through each. To reach the door,
+entrance had to be obtained to a back garden, and this meant passing
+through another door which was padlocked every evening. Investigation
+proved that, though the padlock seemed sound, the staple might very
+easily be withdrawn and replaced afterwards. Six officers helped us
+enormously on the night we actually started. They were Major Corbett
+and Captain Raynor, 48th Pioneers, Captain R. Lowndes, R.G.A., Lieuts.
+Dooley, Cawley-Smith and Galloway, all I.A.R.O. Three opened the doors
+while another drowned their efforts by doing some violent bed repairing
+in a front room, this necessitating much hammering. The others kept a
+look-out on the sentries in the road or engaged them in amiable
+conversation in their best Turkish.
+
+It had been difficult to decide which night to start. We had no tables
+giving the time the moon would rise and wanted to arrange to have a good
+hour of darkness after getting out. Finally we decided to start on
+Wednesday night, August 8th, at 10 p.m. Sweet, who lived in the other
+group of houses, arranged to come to dinner in our mess, being invited
+by Captain Martin, I.M.S., who not only assisted us in selecting our
+food but placed his room at our disposal for storing our kit and
+assembling in just before starting. Our plan was to wait behind the door
+in the alley until our mess cook, Prosser, should come and tap on the
+further side to show that all was clear. This man was in the habit of
+often going out after dark into the town disguised in an old coat, a
+fez, and a sham beard which he had himself made out of goat-skins. His
+usual practice was to put the fez and beard on in the road and walk
+straight up past the sentries. On the night in question he got out in
+some such way and reconnoitred the route we should have to take to get
+out of the town on to the hill. Luckily we were on the edge of the town
+and a climb of two or three hundred yards through houses would take us
+out on to a Mohammedan graveyard on the hillside. As we were waiting
+silently in the dark behind the door, somebody gave a kerosine tin a
+kick, and the resulting clatter seemed bound to bring some one down upon
+us. However, nothing happened; but a moment or two later we heard a
+heavy tread going slowly up the alley.
+
+Our friends, watching, reported that this was the sergeant of the guard
+and we began to feel anxious. After another minute a tap came on the
+door. Our orderly had seen the sergeant safely into a small mosque round
+the corner, and everything was clear. We hurried out in single file,
+endeavouring to be quite silent but seeming to make an awful noise. I
+was wearing a pair of rope sole shoes and carrying my boots while the
+others had put old socks over their boots. In spite of our anything but
+noiseless departure we were not noticed. We scrambled up the hill and
+five minutes later were under cover in the graveyard. Here we put our
+rucksacks and coats on properly and prepared for an all-night trek. In
+order to look less like officers and more like local scallywags we had
+turned our coats inside out and also carried our packs in a blanket over
+one shoulder. We had decided to wear old khaki, so as to be able to
+prove we were really British if necessary in case of accidents or bad
+luck. After taking us a little further, our orderly friend shook hands
+with us all round, and with a quiet word of farewell and thanks for his
+invaluable assistance we set off on our adventure.
+
+We had to make a detour round the north of the town across the main
+valley to get out to the hills on the east. It was a clear, starry
+night, but even so it was extraordinarily difficult to recognize the
+hillsides which we knew quite well by daylight. Hardly had we gone a
+quarter of a mile before a dog began to bark on the main road a little
+way off. Later on, we did not pay much attention to dogs, as we
+generally started at least one every night by walking near a village or
+too close to houses; but this animal, being the first and so near to the
+town, was anything but pleasant to listen to. We scrambled down a steep
+bank across a nullah and up a gully running into a hill which we had to
+climb. The main nullah we had just crossed ran down towards the road
+passing the magazine, where by day there was always a guard. However,
+the dog soon ceased his complaint and quietness reigned. We were already
+beginning to feel the weights of our packs and, as the night was warm
+and our direction led up the stony, pathless side of a steep hill, we
+soon had to call a halt. In fact, although we did not admit it to each
+other, these moments were really almost the worst of our whole trip and
+each secretly thought what an idiot he had been ever to start. Having
+started, however, there was nothing for it but to continue and after a
+few minutes' rest we trudged on. A little further brought us out on the
+top, where we were annoyed to find that the moon was already well up,
+whereas we had reckoned on at least another half-hour of darkness.
+
+During the last few days, we had carefully timed the moon's rising, and
+endeavoured to foretell the time for the night of our venture from
+comparisons with last year's almanac, which was all we had to go upon.
+
+On the top of the hill, we could just make out the big square of the
+Turkish barracks lying down in the valley, a building which we had
+passed almost every day during the last year on our way to the football
+ground or on walks. Sweet wanted to give it a much wider berth than I
+had intended, and in consequence we were longer in getting down to the
+Ineboli road which had to be crossed. What was our horror when we did
+approach it to hear the creaking of country carts coming up towards the
+town. They seemed to be nearly opposite to us and, as there was little
+cover and the moon bright, the only thing to do was to lie down in the
+ditch where we were and hope the carts would pass. We waited some time,
+but yet more carts seemed to be approaching and the drivers of others
+had halted almost opposite to us. There was nothing for it but to turn
+back and try again lower down the road. After creeping back a little way
+on all fours, we made a circle and came out into an open field, heading
+once more for the road. Here we were dismayed to hear yet another cart
+coming. There was no cover this time, not even a ditch, so we had to
+make a dash for it. This succeeded, and we were across the road and some
+little distance into a field of high crops on the far side before the
+carts passed. These carts were evidently coming into the town for the
+following day's market, but we had not counted on meeting any at all.
+We were now in the centre of the valley, and after crossing the stream
+made our way over some more fields to the Sinope road which we crossed
+without further adventure.
+
+We had now reached open country, and after another half-mile rested
+again. We were all feeling a bit done up and thought we had taken too
+much kit. On starting again, we found that so far we were on the right
+track, but from now onwards we were going on a line we had not been on
+before even by day, and we regretted afterwards we had not for this
+first night kept straight on down the main Sinope road, along which we
+could have made good going, although it did not lead due east, which was
+the direction we had planned. There were guard houses at intervals on
+this road, but I knew it for the first ten miles, having driven out with
+my colonel once when he was allowed a carriage to go fishing, this being
+a special favour which ceased to be granted as soon as the commandant of
+the town got to hear about it.
+
+After several miles of up and down going, we reached the first river we
+had to cross. Along each side were irrigated maize-fields, but,
+fortunately, we managed to get through these and over the stream without
+coming to any houses or dogs, although there were villages and farms
+quite close. Another ascent met us on the further side and we plodded
+slowly on. The country was mostly open pasture and plough-land and there
+were few trees except those beside the streams in the valleys.
+Eventually, we got to the top of the ridge and a little later found
+ourselves overlooking another deep valley with a stream running a
+thousand feet below us. After a steep scramble down, we reached the
+water and called a halt. A tin of tongue presented by some one at the
+last minute was opened and eagerly consumed. It was now about 3 a.m. and
+we had not much more than another hour and a half to two hours before
+daylight, when we had to be safely under cover. On leaving the stream,
+we found we were not far from a hamlet, and roused the attentions of
+another dog. However, we plodded on once more. We could now see woods in
+the distance but, before reaching them, had some difficult country to
+cross. Tip and K. were feeling very done up and, as there were signs of
+dawn and other dogs taking up the hue and cry, we began to feel a bit
+anxious. These dogs seemed to be approaching from a village; but we just
+managed to get away from them, although it seemed that they must rouse
+the whole countryside. During our next halt of a few minutes, we heard
+a cart coming along from the village, and, evidently, the peasants were
+already starting on the toil of another long harvest day, even though it
+was only just beginning to get light. Sweet and I had gone on, and on
+looking back could see no signs of the others. We went back a little way
+and luckily found them. We had just scrambled up a steep hill and were
+all fairly well done up. A little further took us to a pine wood, where
+we decided to lie up for the day. We lay just inside while the cart we
+had heard approached and passed on up the track we had just left. Then
+we turned and went into the wood, only to find, however, that sheep
+tracks ran everywhere and that the wood itself only extended two hundred
+yards to the top of the ridge where there were open fields--also, what
+was worse still, no part of the wood was really thick or offered good
+cover. Still, now it was too late to go on even if we had had the
+energy, and the only thing to do was to stay and make the best of it and
+trust to luck. We looked to each side, but the sheep-tracks were almost
+as thick in all directions. This meant that at any time, but
+particularly in the evening, we might expect a flock to come along and
+that would also mean a man or a boy and a dog.
+
+It was, indeed, fortunate for our peace of mind during this first day
+that we did not know how soon our departure had been discovered.
+Actually, this was found out within two hours of our leaving, Sweet's
+absence being first ascertained by Sherif Bey, who simply snorted with
+rage and fury. What had happened was that our orderly was very nearly
+caught while trying to return to his quarters: he had to run for it, and
+in so doing lost one of his shoes. He got in safely, however, and had at
+once to destroy the other shoe. A few minutes later the Turkish guard
+came round, searching for the odd shoe, and listened carefully to the
+breathing and heart-beats of every orderly to see which one had been
+running. Luckily, however, our friend Prosser had had just long enough
+to compose himself in bed and was not detected.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+ON THE HILLS
+
+
+We made a breakfast from condensed milk and a small ration of biscuit
+and some cheese. We dared not make a fire, as people were working on the
+crops not very far away. After this we took it in turns to keep watch at
+the top edge of the wood. From this point a fine view could be had
+across the ridges back towards Kastamuni, although the town itself was
+hidden in the valley. One track was clearly visible and it was along
+this we expected to see signs of pursuit, if any; but there was nothing
+to be seen. The morning was perfect, and the country spread away in the
+sunshine back towards our old haunts. We appeared to have made at the
+very least ten miles from Kastamuni as the crow flies, but actually had
+marched much further owing to the detour round the town and our
+cross-country up and down route since. Towards the east more and higher
+hills could be seen, but we had to be careful of reconnoitring, as
+there were flocks of sheep on the slopes not far away. All of us had
+sundry adjustments to make in our kit, which we felt we must lighten to
+enable us to make better going. My own costume consisted of an old and
+thin British warm over either a thin shirt or vest with old riding
+breeches and puttees. The others had regulation tunics, and Sweet was
+highly respectable, his uniform being nearly new. In the event of our
+posing as Germans we decided he must be the Herr Hauptmann, as in
+addition to his better clothes he knew more Turkish than the rest of us.
+
+[Illustration: MAP (SLIGHTLY REDUCED) USED ON JOURNEY TO BLACK SEA
+
+_(From Sir Henry Sykes "History of Persia")_]
+
+I set about a ruthless lightening of my coat by ripping out the lining,
+cutting off the turned-back cuffs and all other small portions that
+could be spared. We found it difficult to sleep, but felt good for
+another effort as soon as it began to get dark. About three o'clock, we
+relinquished our observation post, as all seemed quiet, and made another
+meal. Hardly had we finished before a dog appeared at the edge of the
+wood, and started barking as only Turkish dogs seem able to. A few
+moments later the expected boy also turned up and stared down upon us
+after quieting the dog. We thought this meant the village being roused
+at once, and deputed Sweet to go and spin a big yarn of some sort to
+the boy. He had scarcely got up before the boy vanished. The only thing
+to do now was to pack up and be off at once. This did not take long, as
+we had purposely remained ready to move at short notice. I abandoned in
+a bush my rope sole shoes which I had carried so far, and did not regret
+it, as they were some weight and very slippery to walk in. After
+creeping along, just inside the wood at the top of the slope, for a
+short distance, we found we were getting near a farm and could not go
+further before dark. We could not see the boy, but one or two sheep-dogs
+were visible not far off and matters did not look at all hopeful.
+However, no hue and cry followed, and very likely the boy had been as
+frightened of us as we of him, or he may have thought we were merely out
+from Kastamuni for a walk--although we had never been nearly so far
+before.
+
+After waiting an hour at the edge of the wood, we saw the sheep
+approaching and knew they must be returning towards the farm. We got
+down the slope back into the wood and as much as possible off their
+line. There was a little more cover here, but still it was rather thin,
+and we could easily have been spotted by anyone looking for us. By and
+by the sheep trooped past, but no dog came near us and once more we
+breathed freely. To improve our prospects, it now began to cloud over
+and we had some rain. A dark cloudy night for cross-country tramping was
+anything but what we required; fortunately, it cleared later on,
+although even then it was black enough until the moon got up. Before
+starting again, the question of weight of kit had to be tackled and,
+although loath to part with any of our food, we decided to discard about
+two to three pounds each. For this sacrifice most of our cheese and meat
+was condemned. It seemed likely that the former would not remain good
+for very long, so that it was not much loss.
+
+We decided to make a start before it got dark, and halt for food when we
+reached the river which we judged must run in the deep valley we were
+about to enter. Accordingly, we left the wood at 7.30 and set off across
+the corn-fields. A very steep and stony descent followed, and by the
+time we struck a road along the valley it was quite dark. We followed
+this road a short distance until we saw a light in a house a little way
+ahead. We then turned off and went straight down to the stream, where we
+proceeded to drink at length and then bathe. During this bathe in the
+dark, I lost my soap, which was a great calamity, and Tip his knife. We
+dared not strike a light and had to be content to go on without. After a
+light meal, we went on up-stream. There appeared to be a ceremony of
+some sort going on at the house with a light, as there was a beating of
+drums. We crossed the stream a little higher up, taking off our boots
+and socks for the purpose. Luckily on the other bank we struck a track
+leading up the further side of the valley, which was very steep at this
+point. After climbing slowly up through brushwood in the dark for an
+hour, we came to more open country. Here there were farms, but we
+managed to avoid them successfully. The night had cleared sufficiently
+for us to see the stars, and we were steering a course about due east. A
+little further on, we got into a thick copse and had great difficulty in
+finding any track. Eventually, we emerged on to a road running along the
+ridge beyond which lay the next valley. After a short halt, we got under
+way once more and made a good distance down the road and along a path we
+found running down to the next valley.
+
+We had to pass close through a farm and several houses, but luckily
+there were no dogs. After reaching the next stream and ascending it
+some way, we crossed over and found ourselves in a maize-field. We
+gathered some cobs, which were not yet ripe but would do to cook. A few
+yards further we saw a light in what appeared to be a sheep-pen. This we
+found was the usual custom in the country. All flocks are collected near
+the farm at night and a shepherd with a big resin torch sits up on
+guard. It was now just beginning to get light in the east, so we turned
+up the hill, and after a long and tiring climb found a tolerably safe
+hiding-place in a pine wood, poor K. was very done up and the rest of us
+not much better, except Sweet, who, physically, was the toughest of us
+all. For nine hours we had been on the move, but we could not have done
+more than eight miles in a straight line--though at the time we thought
+it was much more. We lay down, and got two or three hours' sleep before
+preparing our next meal. We decided we would risk making a fire, and
+after hunting about for the most concealed spot boiled water in our
+canteens and made cocoa. This with a ration of biscuit formed our meal;
+in addition, we used to allow ourselves a very small bit of chocolate
+and a little Horlick's milk. The latter by this time had coagulated into
+one sticky lump, necessitating hard work with the point of a knife
+before a fragment could be broken off. Luckily, the fire burned without
+much smoke, and what little there was we endeavoured to mitigate by
+fanning it in different directions. Not long after breakfast, we heard
+two horsemen trotting along a road through the wood and apparently quite
+close. We thought they were probably gendarmes looking for us; but they
+passed on and did not pause to make investigations in our neighbourhood.
+Another visitor also arrived, this being a man who was chopping wood,
+and worked round our knoll for some distance, but never came within
+sight. Nothing further happened, and we spent a quiet day under the
+trees. The weather was perfect, and had we had a little more to eat we
+should have enjoyed it immensely. At five o'clock we made a stew of the
+maize with a little Oxo; and an hour later, after clearing up all traces
+of our activities, set off eastwards through the wood.
+
+We soon reached the edge of the wood, and found ourselves looking
+southwards across a valley to a high range of hills. On the lower slopes
+were several villages; but it was doubtful if people could see us,
+especially as our khaki was an excellent camouflage for this country: in
+fact, this had been a great recommendation to the proposal for marching
+in uniform. However, we endeavoured to keep out of sight; and after
+travelling across the high ground for a mile reached a spot whence we
+could see the country eastwards and choose out our route for the coming
+night. The main valley had turned somewhat, and now ran eastwards
+through a rocky gorge which opened out beyond to a much greater width.
+This seemed to be our best line, and we thought there would surely be a
+track leading up the valley along the stream. At all events, our water
+was finished, and it was urgent to fill up our bottles again as soon as
+we could reach the river. We set off accordingly, but had not gone far
+before some one reported a man coming up the road; we hid for some time,
+and when all was clear went on again, only to find we were descending to
+a field where women were still working, getting in the harvest. This
+necessitated another wait; but as darkness was approaching the women
+soon left the field. In order to help out our scanty stock of food and
+make it go as far as possible, we were always on the look-out for any
+food we could pick up in the fields, and decided to take toll of this
+corn-field. The wheat was ripe and in a few minutes we all had a good
+pocketful, meaning to make a really substantial meal of wheat porridge
+next morning. By the time we reached a path near the bottom of the
+valley it was quite dark. This track seemed to lead downwards towards
+the river, and we followed it, expecting to get to the water any minute,
+but by and by it began to ascend again and then to get rougher and
+harder to find. This was very trying, as we all now wanted water badly,
+and so we finally decided to try a rocky gully leading steeply
+downwards. Sweet led the way, but, being too eager to get down, or
+through bad luck, slipped and hurt his leg in falling over a rock. It
+was very dark in the gully, and two candle ends which Sweet had brought
+proved invaluable. After climbing and crawling down some way over rocks,
+we were finally brought up by a sheer precipice falling 200 feet to the
+river. Tired and disgusted, we sat down to rest, and had to make up our
+minds to climb out the way we had come, and then either to go back
+down-stream or climb right to the top of the valley and advance and get
+down again higher up where the valley opened out. The latter course was
+adopted and, Tip giving us a good lead, we slowly and, in Sweet's case,
+painfully scrambled back. K. also had a bad time, as he was
+short-sighted and in such a dark spot it was no easy matter to get
+along.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+SLOW PROGRESS
+
+
+We all felt dreadfully tired as well as thirsty. The past two nights had
+told on us; and without proper sleep and sufficient food we were not in
+the best trim for a third night of mountaineering. After getting back to
+the track, we had to climb up the side of the ravine, which was steep
+and rocky. Resting every few yards, we eventually reached the top and
+turned up-stream. The point where we had descended the gully must have
+been in almost the narrowest part of the gorge, and we could see that we
+should have to move some way along the crest before we could get down to
+the water. We were still ascending, and after continuing a little
+further decided to lie down till dawn, and then trust to getting down to
+the river and hiding before the country people were about. It was
+hopeless to try to get down again in the dark, even had we possessed the
+strength. Thirsty as we were, we got off to sleep; and, when we woke,
+found it was already beginning to get light. It had got much colder and
+our thirst had accordingly diminished. I had lost my cap the night
+before shortly before we camped, and now luckily managed to find it on
+going back a little way. We pressed on and began to descend again. It
+took us at least an hour down a very steep tree-clad slope. The stones
+we set rolling seemed to make a dreadful noise, but actually must have
+been drowned in the roar of the torrent below. As we neared the river,
+we found we were quite close to a farm; but no one was about, and we got
+down without trouble. How we drank, and what a relief it was to be
+beside water again! After a wash, we set about getting a meal by
+preparing our wheat. It took some time to get all the husks off the
+grain and longer to boil it; but it was very good and filling. Our
+biscuits had numbered originally about thirty-five each, so that as we
+had reckoned on a journey of a fortnight to the coast we only allowed
+ourselves two and a half per day. We made cocoa, in addition to the
+porridge, and went to sleep under the bushes, feeling a great deal
+better than we had done for some hours. Our camp was in a most ideal
+spot. Below us, the river wound down through the gorge, while the steep
+slopes on each side of the valley were covered with magnificent trees.
+There were a great many hazel nuts, but these were not yet ripe or we
+would have gathered a large number.
+
+Later on, we produced our razor and, one by one, for the first time
+since leaving Kastamuni, made ourselves presentable. I got out the
+fishing line I had brought, but had no luck, chiefly owing to there
+being no worms to be seen in the soil on the river bank. The preserved
+meat seemed to have little attraction for the fish, of which there were
+plenty, and our biscuits were too precious to be used up in any way as
+bait.
+
+We started off once more about 6.30, and after some rough going reached
+the wide part of the valley where fields came down to the river. Here we
+were soon brought to a stop by seeing people still at work. Retracing
+our steps, we crossed the stream and started to ascend the northern side
+of the valley, keeping roughly to our easterly direction. After a steep
+ascent, we reached a fair track, along which we made good progress. Once
+or twice we had to wait and hide owing to farm people being about; but
+after it had got quite dark we got on again without interruption. On one
+occasion we passed close to a farm. There was a resin-wood torch
+burning in the yard, and just as we appeared a woman opened a window and
+looked out; we expected her to see us, but possibly the glare from the
+torch was too strong, for she took no notice. By midnight, we had
+reached some high downland, where there seemed to be a large number of
+farms. After lying down for a couple of hours, we started off again; but
+soon lost all sign of our track. Continuing in our direction with the
+help of the stars or compass, we suddenly found ourselves within range
+of some village dogs. These brutes devoted their attention to us long
+and loudly, and there was nothing for it but to get away across the
+fields as fast as we could. After a little time, we found a track which
+presently led into a pine wood. We trudged on through the trees for two
+hours, the track keeping on the crest of the hill and bending round
+gradually towards the north. This wood promised good cover for the next
+day, and as we seemed to have reached its edge we decided to stop here
+all day. We lay down until it grew light and then moved to the best spot
+we could find. This day was Sunday, August 12th, and we can only have
+achieved about 30 miles as the crow flies, although at the time we put
+it at 40.
+
+Having picked no corn the night before, we had to be content with our
+small biscuit and meat ration which we carried, helped out with a
+fragment of Horlick and chocolate. Tip had not been feeling well all
+night and was now in considerable pain. He said porridge always laid him
+out, and our brew, which was not very well boiled, had proved no
+exception. As far as we could tell, it seemed to be appendicitis or
+something very like it. We discussed gloomy possibilities of giving
+ourselves up in the event of his not getting better; but he remained
+determined to push on if he possibly could.
+
+We reconnoitred our route for the coming night and set off again an hour
+before dusk. From the hill on which we had camped we could see a road
+leading in the direction we wanted, down a wide valley, and we
+determined to keep to this for some distance at all events. After
+forcing our way through brushwood to the foot of the hill, we were held
+up by hearing carts approaching and had to hide until they had gone
+past. We used this opportunity for a wash and to fill up our
+water-bottles from a small stream; and then set off again, following the
+carts down the road. After marching for an hour we reached some corn
+stacks and collected more wheat. It took longer than when gathering it
+in an open field, but in half an hour we had accumulated enough, and
+again took the road. We had noticed that, further on, there seemed to be
+a good number of houses in the valley on our right which we should have
+to cross. Our direction now led down towards the river and the track
+passed through a stack yard. We were going quietly forward, when
+suddenly we were surprised by a number of dogs, which burst out upon us
+in full chorus from behind a stack. An old man appeared immediately
+afterwards and quieted the dogs, but luckily made no attempt to question
+us, and we passed on in silence. At night we always wore fezes and hoped
+thus to pass as Turks or Greeks.
+
+A short distance further on, we crossed the stream and then were
+delighted to discover a maize-field, where we gathered a few of the
+biggest cobs we could find. A moment later some one discovered that
+beans and marrows were growing on the ground beneath the maize, so we
+helped ourselves to these also. The beans were of a dwarf French
+variety, which seems to be the most popular kind throughout the
+district. Thus provisioned, we set off up a wide valley leading up in
+front of us.
+
+Poor Tip was having a hard time, and as we had to cross several ploughed
+fields before discovering any path, matters for him became much worse.
+He could manage to get along all right on a smooth path, but rough going
+gave him great pain. Fortunately, the road we now struck had quite a
+fair surface and we made a good pace for the next two hours, assisted by
+the moon. Finally, about 4 a.m., we lay down for an hour, until dawn,
+near the side of the road. We found we had overslept ourselves on
+waking, as it was broad daylight; so we had to hurry off up a small hill
+and hide in the bushes. The country round seemed more deserted in this
+part of the valley and we had got away from cultivated land. As we were
+all now very done up, we decided to move down to the centre of the
+valley, which looked as if it must possess a stream. There we intended
+to hide for the rest of that day and the next. This we thought might
+give Tip a chance to get right again. After resting two or three hours
+on the hill, we scrambled down and eventually emerged in the main
+valley. Just before we reached it we as nearly as possible walked into
+two gendarmes, who were going up the valley road and crossed our path
+about a hundred yards ahead of us. However, they did not see us and all
+was still well. After crossing the main valley and stream, we found a
+small gully on the further side which seemed to offer us good cover, as
+well as having a small supply of water. As we crossed the river bed to
+reach it we came in view of a man and two boys working on an irrigation
+dam a little higher up. Luckily, they had their backs towards us and did
+not notice anything. A little way up the gully, we found a sheltered
+spot to camp in and prepared a meal, chiefly from the vegetables we had
+gathered the night before. We made Tip as comfortable as possible, and
+with the aid of hot compresses succeeded in making him feel easier.
+Nothing occurred during the day, and, after another stew had been
+consumed in the evening, we set about making ourselves comfortable for
+the night. With the aid of fir branches we made a tolerably soft couch.
+Tip, K. and I for purposes of additional warmth slept side by side under
+the most substantial part of the sail, while Sweet, who preferred to be
+on his own, rolled himself up in the lighter piece. We would have much
+enjoyed a little more warmth at nights and, in spite of putting on the
+few spare garments we each carried, we were always much too cold before
+morning.
+
+Our plan now was to follow the road up to the head of the valley and
+then steer as straight as possible for the Geuk Irmak valley, along
+which we knew ran the main road to Sinope. It was clear that we could
+not make fast enough progress at the present rate ever to reach Baffra
+before our provisions gave out; our boots, also, were getting badly worn
+and much work was done in repairs at our various halts. Walking across
+rough country at night had damaged them much more severely than we had
+ever imagined could be the case.
+
+The following day we spent in resting, cooking, and also shaving and
+washing. As one or two people had passed along the road in the
+afternoon, we did not like to make an early start and so waited until it
+was growing dark. For the first mile the track remained fairly good;
+then it forked, and we chose the left-hand branch as leading in the
+direction we wanted most. It was now quite dark and the sky cloudy; but
+what was much worse, the track got more and more indistinct as we slowly
+emerged into open country and fields at the head of the valley. Several
+times we had to halt and spread out to find the path; and then, at last,
+when we did reach a cart track we almost walked right into a big farm.
+After pausing to reconnoitre, we decided to try to skirt it on the
+left, and had got half way round when a sheep-dog heard us and started
+off at full blast. There was a shepherd sitting with a torch in one of
+the farm buildings, but he took no notice. Shortly afterwards we found a
+field of beans to which we helped ourselves, and then had to make a
+diversion to avoid another house. This led us into a pinewood and we
+were soon forced to give it up until morning, as we could see no way
+through in the darkness. We lay down close together and got a few hours'
+sleep before the first sign of daylight roused us to continue our
+journey. We had to pass closer than we liked to a farm; but no one was
+about yet and we got away on to a high ridge covered with brushwood.
+After making our way for a short time along this, we halted and made
+cocoa, which with a biscuit formed our breakfast. By this time our
+biscuits had broken up into small fragments, so that we had to estimate
+how many bits were equal to a whole biscuit. Our experiences of the
+night before forced us to the conclusion that it was hopeless trying to
+do a good march by night unless on a good track; and we, therefore,
+decided to cut across a low cultivated stretch of land to the forest
+covering the opposite ridge and continue by daylight until reaching the
+Geuk Irmak. It was now about nine o'clock and the peasants were at work
+in the fields almost all round us. There was no safe way of reaching the
+woods opposite without exposing ourselves to view, and the only thing
+was to do the best we could and use all the cover available. On getting
+down to a stream from a steep hill, we found we were close to some women
+and children. The latter saw us, but the women were too busy to notice
+us and we reached cover in a nullah on the further side without any
+alarm being raised. Our next encounter was with an old Turk. He saw us
+just before we saw him and was off to ground in some cover before one
+could say knife. Evidently, he was very much more startled at seeing us
+than we were at seeing him. After this we were not seen by any other
+people, and after skirting a harvest field got well into the forest. At
+two o'clock we halted, and having slept for two hours made another stew
+and prepared to go on till dark. We were in a big forest chiefly of huge
+pines which were being cut in places for resin. Our direction was now
+nearly due north, and every rise we topped would, we hoped, bring us in
+view of the Geuk Irmak valley. As is generally the case, the longed-for
+view was very slow in making its appearance, and we had to bivouac for
+the night without reaching our goal. We had passed a small flour mill,
+driven by a water wheel. Sweet had investigated it for flour, but it was
+swept and garnished and absolutely empty.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+BLUFFING THE PEASANTS
+
+
+Next morning we were off at the first streak of dawn, after a very cold
+night. We were in a narrow valley, and look where we would we could not
+find the track we had seen not long before halting the previous night.
+The hills were too steep and wooded to make it possible to get along low
+down by the stream, so there was no other course open except to start
+climbing again in the hope of meeting the track at a higher level. This
+we succeeded in doing after toiling up some distance. Following the
+track, we emerged after a couple of miles on a hill overlooking the long
+expected Geuk Irmak. It was too late in the morning and the
+neighbourhood too populous to make further progress possible, so we
+bivouacked close by in the wood and hoped to make good distance that
+night along the main road in the valley. Starting an hour before dark,
+we were forced to wait for a home-coming couple who were slowly
+returning along the track we were intending to take. When they were
+safely off the scene, we had to scramble down through the thickest copse
+it was ever our misfortune to meet with, and by the time we had reached
+the river it was quite dark. As on all such occasions, we took off our
+boots and socks to cross and replaced them on the other side, only to
+find soon after that there was another branch of the river which we had
+not been able to see in the dark, so that the process had to be
+repeated. Even then we were not over dry-shod, as there were now several
+irrigated fields to be crossed before we could get to the road. Creeping
+along the small bund dividing two fields, we endeavoured to keep on dry
+ground; but were not very successful. Finally, we reached a big
+irrigation nullah, which meant another wade. We were now, at last, on
+the main road; but it had taken us two hours' hard going to get there,
+which was a great disappointment. Soon after starting again, we met a
+couple of men on ponies, driving cattle. At the time we were rather
+separated; Tip and I escaped observation, but Sweet and K. were not so
+lucky, for the men stopped and asked who they were. Sweet promptly said
+"Germans" and gave a few details. The men, however, declared they were
+prisoners, but did not seem disposed to make trouble, and moved on again
+after a few minutes, much to Sweet's relief.
+
+After another hour's trek, we felt too exhausted to go further, and lay
+down, intending to do a little more at dawn. The mosquitoes were a great
+pest in this valley and we had a very poor night's sleep. We had now
+come down to a much lower elevation: Kastamuni was 2,500 feet above sea,
+but this spot could scarcely be 1,000 feet. As soon as it grew light in
+the morning we were off again along the road, after filling up our
+water-bottles from the river and investigating another flour mill which
+proved to be empty. Very soon we came to a picturesque old wooden bridge
+spanning the stream and, after crossing this, decided to lie up for the
+day on the hill-side above. The valley became wider at this point and
+several hamlets and farms were to be seen; it therefore behoved us to
+get under cover as quickly as possible, since the peasants are very
+early astir. We found a good place and lit a fire. This was, perhaps,
+rather rash, but we felt that it was worth risking a good deal to have
+something hot to drink. As we had had no luck in getting vegetables the
+night before, we had to be content with small rations. After an
+uneventful sunny day, we moved down to the road in the evening, and
+after filling our bottles with water from the river gathered some maize
+and marrows from a field close by. We then set off down the road and
+made very fair progress for the next three hours.
+
+Loaded as we were with several extra pounds each of marrow, we got more
+tired than would otherwise have been the case. Eventually, the road led
+us into a village, and we had to walk straight past some people coming
+towards us. They took no notice, however, and we went on. A little
+further, there was a light in a flour mill, which was grinding away as
+hard as it could go, being driven by a small water turbine. There seemed
+to be no track by which we could avoid going right through the village,
+and after retracing our steps once or twice we decided there was nothing
+else for it. We tramped down the road past several old fellows who were
+sitting outside a house and were probably interested in the activities
+of the flour mill. Most likely, by grinding secretly at night, it is
+possible to escape the Government's taxes on flour, but needless to say
+we did not stop to make inquiries. The road seemed to take us nowhere.
+After visiting one or two back yards and coming out in another place on
+top of a house, we had eventually to retrace our steps past the old men
+to the end of the village which we had first entered. How that road made
+its way out we never discovered and, in consequence, lost a good deal of
+time and distance.
+
+After sleeping for a couple of hours in a graveyard, we set off with the
+first streak of dawn to make a circuit round the south side of the
+village, and reached a hill which promised safety for the day. It took
+us a long time and many halts had to be made. We disposed of our marrows
+by eating them raw, and decided that they were too heavy to be worth
+carrying any distance in future. Finally, we reached a snug spot in
+brushwood high up on the hill and made ourselves as comfortable as
+circumstances would allow.
+
+In the afternoon, I decided to go to the top of the hill to try to
+locate our exact position in the valley. After a steep climb I got a
+splendid view all round and discovered a convenient track for us to
+follow as soon as it grew dark. A town was clearly visible a few miles
+further on, and this I felt sure must be Duraghan, although the road
+leading to it did not correspond with what was shown on our map.
+However, we decided that it must be this place, as by our calculations
+we reckoned we must have come every bit of the distance. Our disgust may
+be imagined when on the following day we found the place was really
+Boiabad, a town 30 miles short of Duraghan.
+
+Just after getting back to our bivouac, it came on to pour, but luckily
+we managed to get a fire going and a stew made just in time. However,
+the result was that we started marching an hour later, soaked very
+nearly to the skin, and with no prospect of being able to get dry in the
+near future. We came close to the town, as it was getting dark, and
+after crossing a stream had some discussion as to which road to take.
+Finally, we selected a track which we thought must lead into the main
+valley, where we were certain the main road would run on our side of the
+river. As a matter of fact, it had crossed to the other side and we did
+not meet it till next day. We continued along this track till midnight,
+when we lay down for a little sleep; but it was too cold to be possible
+in our wet things and in an hour we were up and off again. A few miles
+further on, we found we were close to a village through which the track
+ran and, joyful sight, there were several corn stacks close by. These
+promised a warm shelter until dawn; but it was not to be. The usual
+village dog had already heard us and although we remained stock still he
+would not cease his frantic barking. One old peasant had already been
+roused up and came slowly towards us. Our only course was to go straight
+on; and we went right into the village, past several houses, through a
+cow pen, over a hedge and so on to the moor beyond. Just as we got clear
+some sportsmen let off a shot-gun. No pellets came near us and it was
+probably only meant as a warning to robbers!
+
+Luckily, we were not followed and got away over the hill, steering east.
+After some distance we rested again, until morning should show us our
+whereabouts. We were evidently some way from the river and a good height
+up. As it began to get light, we moved off towards the river, hoping to
+find a snug hiding-place near the water. No such luck was in store for
+us, for just as we reached a slope overlooking the river we saw a small
+village at our feet, and the village dogs saw us almost at the same
+moment. Wearily we retraced our steps uphill, and when out of range of
+the dogs held a council as to our future efforts. It was clear that
+while walking by night we were covering very little distance, and that
+at this rate the food we carried would be exhausted long before we
+reached the sea. We decided, therefore, that our only hope lay in
+bluffing the country people that we were Germans and buying food where
+we could. Accordingly, we made for the first house we could see, where a
+miserable peasant and two women were working. We explained that we were
+Germans surveying, and produced our maps and passport in support of this
+contention. They did not doubt us; but they had no food to sell and,
+indeed, looked as poor and wretched as people well could. However, they
+referred us to their master, who was the headman of the locality. We
+crossed a few fields and were then met by this gentleman, to whom we
+told the same story. He led us into his house and providing us with
+seats gave orders for food to be prepared. In the meanwhile, Sweet
+carried on a conversation to the best of his ability. It appeared that
+our host was one Ahmed Chaoush (sergeant) who had been fighting against
+us in Gallipoli but now had a year's sick leave. He took in our story,
+but asked some awkward questions, such as why we carried no revolvers?
+Sweet had to pretend not to understand and, luckily, Ahmed did not
+become suspicious. We gathered from him that the town we had passed in
+the night was Boiabad and that Duraghan was several hours' distance in
+front of us. This was a cruel blow, and only showed us how much slower
+we had been than we thought. In the meantime, the chaoush had produced
+some small pears which were soon disposed of. Finally, after much
+anxious speculation as to whether or no our host intended to give us a
+meal, real signs of preparation appeared for that eagerly expected
+event.
+
+A few minutes later a small circular table was produced and several
+dishes were brought in. These consisted of cucumber sliced up in milk,
+small wads of boiled flour in milk, yoghourt or curdled milk and
+chapatties--a feast such as we had hardly dared to hope for. Turkish
+fashion, we sat round, each armed with a wooden spoon and dipped in the
+same dish, emptying one after another. It is etiquette on such occasions
+to wait until the next man has taken a spoonful so that all may get the
+same number in the end, but I fear we were not always so scrupulous and
+ate as fast as our usual habits would allow. When the table and dishes
+had been cleared away, Ahmed was given a little English tobacco and told
+it was the best German variety. Soon after we bid him a grateful
+farewell, and, although he was unwilling to take anything, succeeded in
+getting him to accept some money. We felt that to accept his
+hospitality and humbug him without any payment would scarcely be playing
+the game. He directed us towards our road, for which we had to descend
+again to the main valley and cross the river. On the further side we
+were delayed by a large irrigation nullah. When across this we found a
+good many blackberries and some onions in a field. The latter we seized
+upon with avidity, as being the first we had met with. There was some
+doubt as to which of two roads we should take, but it was decided to
+pursue one which some women had pointed out as the right road to
+Duraghan. This led straight away from the river and began to climb
+steeply. After a couple of hours, we had ascended some distance and
+decided to bivouac till the afternoon. The sun was pretty hot, but we
+were now high up and on top of a small hill from which the surrounding
+ranges could be clearly seen. It was evident that we had not come in the
+direction we had intended, but, on the other hand, we were now heading
+direct for the sea. After some discussion and poring over the map, we
+decided that our only real chance of reaching the sea lay in making a
+bee-line across country as nearly as possible in a north-easterly
+direction, buying food where we could and walking by day. If we had
+gone on we should not only have had to skirt Duraghan by night, or make
+a big detour by day, but the distance down to the sea would have been
+very much greater. In addition, it would have been much hotter for
+walking, with the extra hardship of mosquitoes at night.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+REACHING THE COAST
+
+
+We made it to be 30 miles in a straight line to the sea from the spot
+where we now lay and hoped to do the distance in three days. After the
+chaoush's hospitality at breakfast we scarcely felt inclined for another
+meal till the afternoon, when we made tea, and then packed up, intending
+to follow up a track beside a stream which flowed down from the range we
+had now determined to cross. Descending our hill, we came to a small
+village, and thought it would be just as well to see if we could
+purchase any provisions before going further. We asked some children for
+eggs, whereupon a Turkish matron of an unusually agreeable type came out
+and after a little parleying brought us quite a royal supper. This
+consisted mainly of an excellent tomato stew, chapatties, yoghourt and
+fruit. Taking into account what we had accumulated from Ahmed Chaoush,
+we had now got quite a good stock of chapatties. The amusement afforded
+by bluffing these good people had considerably raised our spirits, but
+all at once the good dame serving us staggered us completely by saying
+casually she had seen us in Kastamuni. We assured her it must have been
+other people, as we had no connection with Kastamuni and were real
+Germans from Angora.
+
+Just before leaving a man appeared who eyed us very suspiciously, and we
+were glad to get away without waiting to make his acquaintance. We had
+hardly gone a mile before an old man ran to meet us with his cap full of
+apples. We seemed almost to be entering on a triumphal progress and were
+tremendously amused. Several houses and a large village were passed
+without event, but a little further on we found several men with mules
+resting a short distance from the road. They called to us, and probably
+wanted to continue their journey in our company, but it was sailing
+nearer the wind than we cared for and, pretending we had to go on at
+once, we did not stop to hear anything more from them. Just before dark
+we passed through a very picturesque gorge, where the stream ran through
+a deep narrow gateway between two enormous masses of rock, and beyond
+this found a nook to sleep in for the night where we should be protected
+from the wind. This had been a truly great day, and its success seemed
+to confirm the wisdom of our new policy.
+
+Early the following morning, we were once more pursuing our path, which
+now became fainter and steeper as it rose towards the rocky ridge
+towering above us. Towards eleven o'clock, we reached some poor houses
+not far below the crest. Hoping to be able to purchase food, we stopped
+and made inquiries, but all the chief people seemed to be away at some
+market and there was nothing to be had. We continued on our way and
+after another hour's tramp came to a cattle trough by the side of the
+path. As there was water flowing here, we decided to halt till the
+afternoon, and found a snug spot a few yards up the hill. In the
+afternoon, after washing and shaving, we were nearly discovered by a man
+who appeared to be a gendarme. He came riding down the path and stopped
+to water his horse at the trough, but passed on without noticing
+anything. Soon afterwards we were again marching, still upwards towards
+the crest of the mountain ridge. We must have been now over 4,000 feet
+up, and hoped when we reached the top we should actually see the sea.
+An hour's trek took us to a poor village standing very high and,
+probably, in winter almost always in the clouds. An ill-clad woman
+informed us that she was a Greek who had only just arrived from
+Kastamuni. She seemed to have a pretty clear notion as to what we really
+were, but said nothing and, eventually, got us yoghourt and some
+chapatties. Our direction was now about north-east and we were making
+for Tel Kelik, a small place marked on the map, a little on the northern
+side of the watershed. Most of the peasants seemed never to have heard
+of it, and we had some difficulty in getting on to a path leading in the
+right direction. As it grew dusk, we found ourselves in a second village
+at almost the same elevation; there was no one about, but eventually a
+man turned up who said he was on his way home to another village. The
+village women in particular were most suspicious, declaring that there
+was no food anywhere; and it was not until some little while later, when
+the colour of our money had been clearly shown, that anything was
+forthcoming. We had intended to spend the night in a village hut if
+possible, as the only alternative was sleeping in the mist, which at
+4,000 feet was a cold and dreary prospect. However, after some
+parleying, we were led to what proved to be the travellers' rest hut.
+Our story was absorbed with due interest, a large fire lighted and some
+food brought in. We lay down on mats on the floor, rejoicing in the
+warmth and, if undisturbed by smaller visitors, felt we should have a
+really good night's rest. Several village worthies looked in during the
+evening to see the Almans (Germans) and we hope were not disappointed. A
+young soldier just returned on leave from Constantinople helped to
+procure some butter and syrup for us. The latter is a poor substitute
+for treacle and seems to be made from raisins. This reception in a
+travellers' rest hut was the limit reached by our bluff; it gave us much
+satisfaction to think how annoyed our Turkish friends in Kastamuni would
+be to know of our being entertained in such a manner.
+
+We had a splendid night, although lying on the floor, and in the morning
+obtained a little more food and some butter through our soldier friend.
+After a hasty meal we hurried off with our first acquaintance of the
+previous night as guide to put us on the right road. We were soon at the
+highest point of the range, although as yet the sea was not in view. A
+little further on, after having bought a large knife from our friend,
+we bade him good-bye with many expressions of gratitude. Tel Kelik was
+now quite close, and it was fortunate that we were not compelled to
+march through it, since we found later that there was a Turkish
+detachment stationed in the village. Leaving the Tel Kelik valley, we
+climbed the hill on our side and an hour later--at 9.30--were delighted
+at finding the sea stretching out before us in the sunshine. It looked
+about fifteen miles off, but the mere sight seemed to raise our spirits
+marvellously, and we were, perhaps, almost as elated as Xenophon's men
+when the same sea greeted their gaze at Trebizond. We were now in a
+copse and decided to halt till evening. To celebrate the occasion, we
+made a late breakfast of buttered eggs, the eggs having been bought at a
+cottage we had passed during the morning. The next work in front of us
+was to make something of the coarse flour which we had procured two days
+previously from the Greek woman. Sweet got to work and, using some of
+the butter and our last tin of condensed milk, turned out a very fine
+dough. Baking was the chief difficulty and, after trying to make an
+oven, in the end we had to be content with making small chapatties on
+our diminutive frying-pan turned upside down and on the lid of a
+canteen. The results were very satisfactory, although consisting largely
+of fragments.
+
+At four o'clock in the afternoon, we set off again and by dark had gone
+a good distance, and, after finding a sheltered spot for the night,
+collected a quantity of dead bracken to make ourselves as comfortable as
+possible.
+
+We were off again early next morning, and had a steep scramble down
+through a wood, and eventually, to a stream at the bottom of a deep
+valley. Here there were a number of blackberries which we took advantage
+of, and then climbed the further side, coming out at last on the top and
+finding nothing now lay between ourselves and the beach, which must have
+been only three miles away at the nearest point. A moment later a
+sailing boat was seen close in to the shore and two or three others soon
+after. We were overjoyed at this, as it meant that boats were still
+being used along the coast and that there was no truth in all the
+stories we had heard in Kastamuni to the effect that no boats were now
+plying. There was a small wooded hill projecting into the sea a little
+west of where we now were, and from its summit there would be a good
+view of the coast in each direction; on the other hand we knew we could
+not be far from the town of Jerse, and going west meant getting still
+nearer to it. Also, there were several farms and open country between us
+and the hill, and we were now very anxious not to be seen at all if we
+could help it. In the end, we decided to stay where we were for the day
+and go straight down to the shore in front of us late in the afternoon.
+The wood we were in was very thick and, try as we might, no good spot
+for a halt could be found which would also give us a clear outlook on to
+the coast and any boats sailing along it. We had to be content to do
+without further observation of the sailing boats, and bivouacked amongst
+the trees. Tea was made and a frugal meal of biscuits followed; our
+cocoa was now all exhausted, and greatly did we wish we had brought more
+of it in the place of some other things.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+RECAPTURED
+
+
+In the afternoon, we sewed together the two halves of the sail and cut a
+handle for our axe head so as to be as ready as possible in the event of
+discovering a boat. After making a stew from some beans we had gathered
+in a field on the hill that morning, we packed up and set off, full of
+hope and excitement. The question of going across to the wooded hill
+arose again when we got clear of the wood, but it was thrown out, and,
+bitterly did we regret it next day. Turning down to the shore, we
+crossed the road and, eventually, reached the beach just as it was
+getting dark. There were one or two small houses just on our right above
+the shingle, and we were reconnoitring carefully when a big rowing boat
+was seen coming along close to the beach, rowed by some eight men. It
+went a quarter of a mile further along, and the boat was then pulled up
+by the men and others who appeared from the houses. It was too dark to
+see what they were, but for some unknown reason we did not suspect that
+they were men of a guard at this place, or connect the houses with a
+place shown on one of our maps as being somewhere near here. We debated
+whether to go along the coast when it was quite dark and reconnoitre, or
+whether to wait for dawn. In any case, it seemed hopeless to think we
+could push off the boat which had just been pulled up: it was far too
+heavy and they had brought it up a long way. Finally, we decided to wait
+till dawn and then go along and see what we could find.
+
+As soon as it began to get light next morning, August 23rd, we were up;
+our excitement was increased by seeing a small boat moored a little way
+from the beach. This had mast and sail and was just the size of boat we
+were hoping for. We crept quietly down to a track along the shingle.
+Sweet was in front and reported seeing a peasant near the first house.
+We walked quickly on finding that there were rather more tumble-down
+houses than we had expected. However, it was too early for people to be
+about and there seemed no reason to suspect danger. We were hurrying on
+towards the boat we had seen, when we passed the end of a tumble-down
+boat-house and, to our dismay, found a Turkish sentry standing just
+inside. He stopped Sweet, while we three hurried on a little further.
+Sweet told him we were Germans bound for Samsun, the next port along the
+coast. However, the old man insisted on telling his chaoush or sergeant.
+Meanwhile Sweet had rejoined us, but there was no chance of getting
+away, as by this time three or four others of the guard had turned out.
+The sergeant had us brought back to the guard-house, where the next
+scene of the pantomime began. Sweet, as had been previously arranged,
+was to play the part of a German officer, while we three were orderlies.
+Accordingly, we carried his pack for him, jumped up and down and saluted
+and, generally, behaved in a manner calculated to show our subservience.
+Meanwhile, the chaoush who was in charge of the guard at this place--a
+village called Kusafet--was evidently not at all sure of his ground, and
+suggested we should go with him to Jerse. We replied we were going in
+the opposite direction, and wanted a boat with which to reach Samsun.
+The boat which had been moored off the beach had now been brought to
+shore and was landing some stores for the guard. We spoke to the skipper
+of this boat and, finding he came from Trebizond and knew a little
+English, hoped he would be amenable to helping us. Our idea was that
+having got on board for Samsun we could persuade him for a consideration
+to take us on to Trebizond, which was in Russian hands.
+
+He went upstairs to confer with the chaoush, but whether he gave us away
+or not we were never quite sure. He came down advising us to go to Jerse
+and see the commandant there. This man, he assured us, knew no English
+or German, and was very ignorant and would believe our story. The
+chaoush wanted to make us march to Jerse, but we refused and,
+eventually, set off in the boat under the escort of the chaoush and two
+other armed soldiers. Before leaving we had obtained some chapatties,
+and a little raw fish which was better eating than we had expected. On
+the way we suggested to the skipper that with the help of the crew we
+could easily overpower the guard and then set sail east; but he would
+not agree, and with the probability of the crew of five joining the
+guard we should have stood no chance at all. Hugging the coast, we
+reached Jerse in two hours, finding a small Turkish town built on a
+slight promontory. On the way, we passed the wooded hill we had talked
+about so often the day before. We should have been quite safe on this
+hill and, what was more, should have seen two or three boats in which
+we could probably have got away without much trouble. On reaching Jerse
+we found ourselves moored beside a small patrol boat of the Turkish
+navy, one of the crew of which said openly we were English. However,
+Sweet had gone ashore with the chaoush, and we were left hoping for the
+best, but fearing the game was up. Half an hour later we were summoned
+to join Sweet, and were conducted with him to a police station. Here Tip
+was made to speak on the 'phone to a German officer at Sinope. He could
+think of nothing to say but "Sprechen sie Deutsch," to which the Teuton
+eagerly responded at the other end. After shouting this down the 'phone
+several times Tip threw down the receiver, declaring it was out of
+order! Another man coming into the station declared he had seen two of
+us at Kastamuni. We were then taken to the commandant of the town and
+agreed it was useless to try to bluff any longer, since they believed us
+to be English spies and it was only a matter of getting hold of any
+German for our whole story to fall to the ground. We, therefore,
+admitted that we had escaped from Kastamuni, saying we had been so long
+prisoners that we wanted to get home. The commandant was one of the
+best types of Turkish officer it had been our fortune to meet and was
+most polite. We were searched, and our maps and compasses and diaries
+taken, except from K., who managed to smuggle his map through. My
+original compass, not being recognized as such, was not taken.
+
+Sweet told us that on first landing he had seen the commandant of the
+local _gendarmerie_, whom he had no difficulty in bluffing, as the
+skipper had foretold. Sweet told him we were on our way to the Caucasus
+to help in preparing a coming offensive for the Turks. He took all this
+in and Sweet was congratulating himself that our troubles were over.
+After giving Sweet coffee he said, no doubt, we would now like to be
+going on our way to Samsun. Sweet agreed, and they were just coming back
+to rejoin us when the Yuzbashi mentioned that there was a colonel who
+was commandant of the town and that he would probably like to see Sweet
+before he left. The fat was then in the fire. Sweet proffered our
+passport, but the colonel was suspicious and a Turkish naval officer
+whom he called in confirmed his ideas that we were British. The colonel
+told us later that there were two mistakes in our passport, which
+otherwise he evidently thought was quite good. He had our names and had
+been warned of our escape some two or three days after we had left
+Kastamuni.
+
+The yuzbashi, finding how thoroughly he had been bluffed, was now
+equally frantic in his wrath. We were said to be going off that day to
+Sinope, and he was already preparing to handcuff us together in pairs.
+Luckily, the colonel turned up in time to prevent this. Most of our
+money was now taken and a receipt given to us for it. A little later we
+were told we were not going that day and were given a better room in the
+police station. The chaoush was very pleased with himself and told us he
+was going to accompany us to Kastamuni. He, also, it appeared, had been
+warned of our escape and, having passed through Kastamuni recently,
+probably suspected us more quickly than he would otherwise have done.
+The colonel came in to see us, and endeavoured to find out as much as he
+could from us as to which way we had come and how we had got food, but
+we told him very little. We got some food sent in and finally lay down
+on the floor for the night. Tip was now suffering again from his
+previous complaint, and we insisted that a doctor should be brought.
+However, no one was forthcoming. Next morning we were allowed to go
+into the bazaar to buy a few things needful, and on our return were told
+to get ready to march at once. A small donkey was brought up and on this
+we loaded our kit.
+
+Tip was still feeling very poorly and had a bad time on the march. After
+some eight miles, mostly along by the sea, we reached some Turkish
+barracks which had evidently been only recently put up. They were wooden
+buildings, but, fortunately, cleaner than might have been expected. We
+were put into a small corner room in the officers' quarters and were
+much amused to find that no less than three sentries were posted to
+guard us; one outside the door, and one outside each window.
+
+The officers consisted of a fat and surly yuzbashi and an Arab
+lieutenant, a huge man who was most genial and friendly. He told us his
+home was near Mosul, but he refused to believe that the British were in
+Bagdad and evidently thought we were trying to bluff him, the ignorance
+pervading all classes in Turkey as to what is happening in the outside
+world being colossal.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+RESCUED
+
+
+We had several visits from the Arab officers, and they very kindly gave
+us a share of their food, which consisted chiefly of a vegetable stew.
+The following morning we were given a bread ration for five days and
+told to get ready at once. Tip was not fit to move, but they would not
+listen to us and dragged him out. We found a small pony had been
+brought, so Tip mounted this and we set off with a guard of a sergeant
+and eight privates; our former friend, the chaoush from Kusafet, was not
+coming with us after all and in his place we had a truculent
+quick-tempered fellow who looked as if he would be anything but an
+agreeable companion on the march. The men were evidently in the best of
+spirits, a visit to Kastamuni being a great event for them. In addition,
+they carried a good deal of tobacco, which they doubtless expected to
+sell again at a large profit on arrival. A great deal of tobacco is
+grown in the coast districts, more particularly near Samsun. We set off
+at a very easy pace and after passing the German wireless station soon
+had a halt. The guard had two donkeys which carried their kit, but the
+chaoush would not hear of us putting our packs on them as well. After
+another halt in a village, we reached a caravanserai early in the
+afternoon, where the guard prepared their food, the man who owned the
+donkeys acting as cook to the chaoush. This fellow had not even the
+disreputable uniform which the average Turkish soldier possesses, but
+was clothed in thin black stuff. His efforts produced boiled rice over
+which a little melted butter was poured. This was taken to a raised
+corner where he and the chaoush proceeded to shovel it into their mouths
+from the same bowl, etiquette prescribing that the two parties should
+take spoonfuls strictly in turn. An hour later we were off again, and
+began to ascend the lower slopes of the mountains we had crossed a few
+days previously. Now, however, we were on the so-called main road. It
+was one of the worst roads it had been our lot ever to have seen, and we
+were truly thankful we were not travelling in carts. Long stretches were
+strewn with blocks of stone, which had been, apparently, left there
+promiscuously by some contractor who had not finished his job, like so
+many others in this country. An hour or two later, after ascending some
+little distance, we stopped for the chaoush to get his pony shod. This
+animal he had commandeered at a village we had passed through, and now
+fancied himself to no small extent as a mounted man. After a long wait
+the shoeing was at last accomplished and we set off once more. To our
+delight the chaoush had also procured a second pony, and on this we were
+allowed to load our packs. About eight o'clock we reached a small
+village, where we were to spend the night; an empty log hut was found
+and a fire made in the large open hearth. We were given one side of the
+chief room while most of the guard slept on the rest of the floor. With
+some eggs we had bought we made a very good supper and, thanks to the
+fire, were as comfortable as the circumstances would allow. We were now
+high up and it would have been very cold to bivouac in the open, as we
+must have been surrounded by clouds during the night. Before going off
+to sleep we considered the chances of escape. There would be little
+chance after another day or two when we had got further from the sea and
+were halting in larger villages, so that the present night seemed the
+only practical time, should opportunity offer. However, we soon came to
+the conclusion that it was quite impossible, as not only was there a
+sentry in the narrow passage outside the door but one or two of the
+askars in our room were told to keep awake in turns. The only exit was
+the door, to reach which we should have to walk over several of our
+guard.
+
+First thing in the morning, August 27th, we were off again up the road.
+It was a glorious day and nothing happened beyond the usual halts every
+hour or so. We discussed our escapade once more, again deciding we had
+had a good run for our money, but that we had not been cautious enough
+when we did reach the coast. We went over afresh the various routes
+possible and alterations in plans which we would have adopted with the
+experience now gained. It was about nine o'clock and we had been on the
+march fully two hours when suddenly with a cry of "Askar" shots rang out
+from the nearside of the road. For a moment we were too startled to know
+what to make of it. Then K. and I made a dive down the "khud" side, as
+the open road seemed anything but the best place to stay in. The first
+shot had bowled over the man in black who was riding a donkey in front.
+We had been told so much at Kastamuni about the bandits infesting the
+hills that we quite thought we might have fallen amongst a party of them
+and that to be taken and held to ransom would be a worse fate than
+returning for a few months to the civil prison at Kastamuni or Angora.
+
+On going a little way down the hill I saw a man whom I at first thought
+to be the chaoush, but as he beckoned to me saying "Venez, venez," I saw
+that this was one of the new arrivals. He wanted me to go off down the
+hill with him, but after descending a little way I explained there were
+other officers on the road and I must go back to them. In the meantime,
+he was very voluble and excited, but I could not gather who they were or
+what had brought them. On arriving back on the road I found K. and Tip;
+the fighting was now over, and three of the brigands were collecting the
+askars' rifles and ammunition. The guard had put up no show at all and
+the nine of them were all disarmed and standing like sheep within two
+minutes, thanks almost entirely to the efforts of the three now
+collecting their arms, since my friend had been too far down the bank to
+have done much firing himself. The question now was whether we were to
+go with these fellows. K. was all for going off at once, but Tip and I
+hesitated as to the position we should be in, if caught again by the
+Turks before getting away. Our new friends would, of course, have been
+shot as outlaws, and we should very likely have shared the same fate. We
+took them aside and at length made out that they were adherents of the
+old Turk party and had no use whatever for Enver and his Government.
+They said they had come specially to rescue us, and had a boat ready to
+put off for either Trebizond of Sevastopol in three or four days' time.
+After realizing this, a process which took some time, as our knowledge
+of the language was very sketchy, we decided to throw in our fortunes
+with our new friends, as it seemed a heaven-sent chance of getting out
+of the country and almost too good to be true. We had seen nothing of
+Sweet since the firing started and now began to shout for him and search
+on each side of the road. Our new friends set the old guard on to look
+for him, but not a sign of him could we see and no response came to our
+calls. After searching and shouting for an hour, we finally had to give
+it up, and leaving the guard in the road set off with our new
+acquaintances, whom we will now style the "akhardash"--or comrades--as
+that was the name they always used for themselves and their supporters.
+As far as we could see, Sweet must have dashed away when the first shots
+rang out, thinking no doubt that this was a splendid opportunity of
+getting free again. It was very hard luck for him, especially as he had
+all along been one of the keenest and most energetic of the party. The
+old guard watched us go without emotion; they were apparently used to
+surprises of this sort. The chaoush remarked that we should now go to
+our homes, and we often wondered what happened to him when he got back
+to the barracks and reported.
+
+[Illustration: MAP (REDUCED) SHOWING ROUTE OF ESCAPE]
+
+He would be sure to say his party had been greatly outnumbered and were
+only disarmed after a prolonged resistance, but, nevertheless, he was
+probably reduced to a private. Besides the man in black who had been
+killed, two of the others had been wounded. Considering the rate at
+which the akhardash started firing, at a range of only twenty yards or
+so, the wonder is they did not hit many more; probably after inflicting
+a few casualties to start with they afterwards fired high on purpose.
+The guard, beyond firing one or two shots, seemed to have made no
+resistance at all. They were completely surprised and totally unready
+for such an occurrence. Tip had an unenviable experience. He was riding
+his pony when the shooting began and had our rucksacks festooned round
+his saddle and over his legs so that he could not dismount in a hurry
+and found himself in a helpless position in a small storm of bullets.
+Finally, he was dragged to the ground by the tallest of the akhardash,
+who proceeded to kiss him with much fervour! This man, whose name was
+Musa, became our great friend. He was a tall lithe fellow and was always
+ready to do everything he possibly could for our comfort during the
+following weeks. The leader, whom we always rather suspected of having
+played the part of the Duke of Plaza Toro in the actual scrap, was one
+Bihgar Bey, a most evil-looking gentleman. In fact none of the four at
+the time we first saw them presented an appearance likely to inspire any
+confidence, but resembled more the types one sees portrayed as those of
+the greatest criminals. Bihgar Bey, we learnt later, was one of a dozen
+implicated in the murder of Mahomed Shevket Pasha[3] some years
+previously, but as he alone when caught was not in possession of arms
+his sentence was only one of transportation, while all the others were
+put to death. The other two were Keor, an old Armenian who looked as if
+he had led a very hard life, and Kiarmil, a little man who had been a
+sergeant-major in the Turkish forces during the late Balkan war. Their
+looks, however, entirely belied them, as will be seen from our
+subsequent experiences, when on all occasions they went out of their way
+to lessen the hardships of our life in the woods. During the following
+days we found that they had been able to pay a certain sum yearly to
+avoid military service up to a few months previously, when all such
+privileges had been cancelled. They had then been forced either to serve
+or become outlaws, and had chosen the latter alternative. After living
+in the woods supported by more law-abiding friends, of whom they seemed
+to have a great number dotted about the country, they had decided to
+leave for Russia, and made arrangements with a man in Sinope to embark
+in his boat when all their party had been gathered and all arrangements
+completed. In the meantime, a gendarme at Sinope, who was also of their
+political views, had given them news of our recapture and march back to
+Kastamuni. They determined thereupon to effect our rescue, and the
+evening before had made a forced march of over twenty miles. At first,
+we could not understand why they had taken on such an enterprise, seeing
+that it could only hinder their own plans for getting away, and would
+probably make it much more difficult for them to leave at all, as the
+Turkish authorities would be sure to take a good deal of trouble to
+prevent our getting out of the country; but they seemed to have a
+profound contempt for any number of gendarmes and no doubt considered we
+should form a good introduction for them to Russia. Whatever their
+reasons, it was a very plucky act for four of them to take on a guard of
+nine, although at the time when the man in black was bowled over it
+seemed a horribly cold-blooded business.
+
+[3] Grand Vizier, 1913.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+IN HIDING WITH THE TURKS
+
+
+Throughout the following weeks our new friends did all they could to
+make us as comfortable as circumstances would permit, and we can never
+be sufficiently grateful to them for thus enabling us to leave captivity
+and reach home. They would never listen to any offers of payment, saying
+they did not wish to be taken for men who had rescued us for money.
+
+Going back to the morning of our first acquaintance, we left the guard
+standing in the road while we, with all their ammunition and four of
+their rifles, retraced our steps along the road towards the sea and then
+branched off down a side track, finding a secure hiding-place in a thick
+wood about a mile further on. We thought it might be as well to impress
+the guard with the idea that we had been taken off by the "brigands"
+against our will, and therefore got them to tie our hands together and
+behaved as if we did not want to go with them at all. When out of
+sight, we undid the cords and marched on again as really free men,
+Bihgar Bey continually cheering us by saying, "Allons, enfants de la
+patrie," which, considering his position as an outlaw, was distinctly
+humorous. It was wonderful the inspiring effect the change from
+captivity had upon Tip, who had been so seedy during the last few days;
+now he began to recover rapidly and succeeded in marching all the
+following night without any ill effects.
+
+We had taken Sweet's kit with us, thinking we might meet him and that in
+any case it would be of no use to leave it with the guard. After sorting
+it out, we took one or two articles each and made our rescuers some
+small presents from the remainder. Bihgar and Kiarmil went off to fill
+our water-bottles and returned a little while later, after announcing
+their approach by clapping their hands. This we found was the method
+always adopted by the akhardash when meeting each other in woods or by
+night.
+
+It was arranged that two of them would accompany us down at nightfall to
+a secure hiding-place, while the other two were to go in the opposite
+direction to meet friends from Boiabad who were also joining the party
+and, as far as we could make out, were bringing a good deal of money
+with them. In the end, we set off about half-past seven under the
+guidance of Keor, the old Armenian, while the other three set off again
+towards Boiabad. They had told us that we should reach our hiding-place
+in three hours, Bihgar Bey making our mouths water by describing it as a
+place of milk and honey, where we would be provided with meat, butter,
+eggs and cheese, all of which since we left Kastamuni had seemed the
+greatest luxuries.
+
+Keor started off at a trot down a path through the wood. He was carrying
+his own rifle and one of our late guard's weapons, as well as four
+bandoliers full of ammunition and a bag on his back. We three each
+carried a rifle, but hoped there would be no more cold-blooded shooting
+of the type that had effected our rescue. Keor's pace must have been
+about five miles an hour, and we soon had to request him to go slower,
+as I had a dicky knee which would be likely to give trouble going
+downhill at a trot over a bad path with daylight almost gone. Our packs
+with some of Sweet's kit were now a good weight, so that with a rifle in
+addition we were well loaded. After being told that we should reach our
+goal in three hours we felt fairly confident of attaining it in five,
+especially as we kept up a good pace and the recognized halts were not
+observed. Keor several times missed his way, but always found it in the
+end. After a couple of hours we reached a river and wended our weary way
+down its bed, first on one side, then crossing to the other side and
+then back again. There was no path and we floundered along amongst the
+boulders in the darkness. Whenever we halted, which was not often, Keor
+always said it was now only one hour's march further.
+
+About 3 a.m. we were going along a rough track beside the river bed when
+suddenly my bad knee gave way and I took a complete toss, rifle and pack
+going all over the place. There was nothing for it but to go on, so
+tying up the knee with a puttee, I hobbled on--the others nobly helping
+me by carrying my rifle. We were now all pretty well done and signs of
+dawn began to show in the east. Keor was very anxious to get in, saying
+there would be a great many gendarmes hereabouts the following day. At
+length we left the river, climbed a small rise, and passed close to some
+cottages, where the usual dogs soon started a chorus. This led to one or
+two shots being fired, probably with the idea of scaring off robbers,
+but, apparently, we were not actually seen. Finally, we dragged
+ourselves up a steep track, and got to ground in a thick copse. We were
+worn out; it was now a quarter-past five and we had done nine and a
+quarter hours instead of the three we had been promised. Still, we were
+free--and nothing else mattered. We put on what extra garments we had
+and were very soon asleep.
+
+A few hours later Keor disappeared and returned shortly afterwards with
+what seemed to us a splendid breakfast: fried eggs, chapatties and
+yoghourt. Apparently, we were close to the house of an akhardash, from
+whom all this had been procured. Although some children came near us
+during the day, we were not discovered, and remained quietly where we
+were till nightfall. Then we tramped off once more, but only to halt at
+a very short distance further on under some trees near a house, which
+was probably the one our breakfast had come from. Here we were met by a
+boy of fifteen, by name Aziz, who came to us through the trees with a
+loaded rifle slung over his shoulder. Our friends always carried their
+rifles with a round in the chamber, but with the bolt not pushed home.
+We were continually expecting some accident to happen from this
+practice, but luckily nothing did.
+
+Of the rifles belonging to our four rescuers, two were short
+Lee-Enfields which had been captured on the Gallipoli peninsula, and had
+found their way to the bazaar in Constantinople, where they had been
+retailed for £T.10 or nine pounds sterling: now, however, they assured
+us that the price had gone up to £T.20. Musa had a Turkish Mauser, made
+in Germany, while Keor possessed a Russian rifle. Aziz met us with an
+old Greek weapon, but much to his delight was given one of the rifles
+which had belonged to our guard. He was a very bright boy, and intensely
+excited and jubilant over our rescue and the discomfiture of the guard.
+In every case, the muzzle piece was removed so as to lighten the weapon,
+a bayonet, apparently, not being considered worth carrying when fighting
+gendarmes in the mountains. In addition to their rifles, some of our
+friends carried Caucasian daggers. These are straight, with a very fine
+sharp point and double-edged blade about fifteen inches long. They were
+used for cutting brushwood, rigging up shelters in the woods, killing
+sheep, or chopping up meat, as required. Whenever we halted, Keor used
+to spend much loving care over his bandoliers of ammunition, seeing
+that each round was clean and not too loose in its leather loop.
+
+After a few minutes under the trees a woman brought us a frugal supper,
+after which we set off accompanied by Aziz to find a hiding-place for
+the following day. A short distance brought us to a small Turkish house
+where a good deal of conversation took place between Keor, Aziz and the
+owner. Finally, we were taken into a maize-field and camped under a tree
+in the centre. The maize was seven or eight feet in height, so that we
+were well concealed. Our host brought us some bedding, consisting of a
+couple of old mattresses and quilts. During the following days we had a
+pretty thorough experience of the delights of such bedding, and came to
+the conclusion in the end that we should have been happier without any.
+However, in the present case it was not so bad and we had a
+comparatively undisturbed night. In the morning food was brought us by
+our host, which consisted mostly of a vegetable stew and coarse bread.
+The day was uneventful.
+
+We spent another night in this field and moved on once more the
+following evening. Keor declared it would only take us half an hour and
+I trusted it might not be far, as my knee was not much better yet. It
+amused us to think what a trio of crocks we seemed to be. Tip had been
+ill off and on most of the time since we left Kastamuni. K. had been
+very unwell that day and suffered a good deal on account of his short
+sight; and I was dead lame. A few minutes after starting we met another
+of the akhardash, a very good fellow named Kasim, and conversed with him
+for a few minutes in the shade of a corn stack before proceeding.
+
+It was a fine moonlight night, and we again passed the German wireless
+station, which was now below us and between us and the sea. In not more
+than an hour, we got close to the place appointed and after a long wait
+were conducted to a spot which seemed very secure, as it was in the
+centre of a thick copse with no houses near. Another youth turned up
+here and, apparently, was the son of our new host. For the next three
+days we stayed here, this boy bringing us food twice a day and telling
+Keor all the local news. It was now we heard that Sweet had been retaken
+or had had to give himself up and was being marched back to Kastamuni.
+Later when Bihgar Bey and the others rejoined us they declared that
+Sweet had gone back with an escort of no less than 60 gendarmes. The
+idea of such a number being necessary tickled them immensely and they
+evidently considered it a great compliment to the disturbance they had
+caused, though they were genuinely sorry for Sweet and would have made
+an effort to rescue him had it been possible.
+
+Our menu was rendered more attractive now by our being able to get a
+little butter and some fruit. As we had to keep still all day, there was
+little to do except speculate as to the composition of the next meal,
+and with having only two meals a day there was a considerable interval
+between these events. K. spent some time in making up his diary and
+checking dates. Our friends could never make out what he was writing
+about, and would say, "Here there are trees and mountains but whatever
+can a man find to write about?" Indeed, they never could make K. out
+very well. Tip was far the most popular; for one thing the fact that he
+was an aviator roused their imagination, and in addition his good humour
+under all circumstances made him a great favourite. They always
+addressed him as Kaptan, but only called K. and me, by our surnames. The
+want of tobacco in the early days had not affected K. and me, as we did
+not smoke, but Tip had had to go very short; now, however, the
+akhardash seemed to have inexhaustible supplies and were always ready
+to roll cigarettes for Tip--an art which he never succeeded in
+mastering. One day Keor informed us that some of the akhardash including
+Aziz had raided the German wireless station the night before, killing
+all the Germans and taking a lot of money. This was absolutely untrue,
+but he seemed to believe it and had evidently been told the story by the
+boy bringing our food.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+CONTINUED DELAYS
+
+
+On the afternoon of September 2nd, the third day in this wood, Bihgar
+Bey and Musa arrived, and announced that the friends from Boiabad had
+also come and that we should move on towards the sea. One of the
+new-comers had arrived with them at our lair, this being a stout fellow
+whom we always referred to as the Fat Boy: he was in fact the only pure
+Turk amongst them, the others all being of Circassian extraction. As it
+grew dark we moved off picking up some others of the akhardash shortly
+afterwards, and took a line which would bring us towards the coast while
+at the same time approaching Sinope. After some hours, it became evident
+that they were not very sure of the way, with the result that in the
+early hours of the morning they decided to stop where they were and
+reach the appointed place the following evening. At dawn a countryman
+stumbled upon a sentry guarding a path near which we lay. He was
+thoroughly scared and was allowed to go, after having evidently sworn
+never to tell of anything he had seen.
+
+As morning dawned, rain came on and we moved under some bigger trees,
+where Keor very soon had a shelter rigged up, cutting down ash saplings
+with a dagger and using our sail as a cover. It was not a very efficient
+protection, but better than nothing and luckily on this occasion the
+rain did not last long. Next evening, under the guidance of a new
+comrade, we were conducted a little way further, finally halting in a
+maize-field until such time as some unwelcome guests had left our new
+host. This was an old Greek as poor as he was dirty, but he had
+evidently agreed to hide us until the boat was ready and we were much
+indebted to him. Finally, the Turkish visitors left the old man and he
+came to meet us. The first thing he did was to go off with one of the
+akhardash and procure a sheep for us. We had not tasted any meat for
+about ten days, and looked with great interest at the fine animal now
+procured. The old man then brought us bedding, and we are not likely
+ever to forget it. We remained in his care for nearly a week, and every
+day seemed to increase the interest which these mattresses took in us.
+At daylight, the old man cleared a space for us in a neighbouring
+thicket, and we moved in there. All the others except Bihgar departed,
+saying they were going to prepare food for the voyage. Left alone with
+Bihgar the time hung somewhat heavily. He looked after us like a father
+and by our calling him this he was highly delighted. He played picquet
+with Tip, and did his best to learn a little English. The old Greek sent
+a messenger into Sinope for us, and we thus got hold of a few small note
+books and some playing cards, which helped to pass the time.
+
+[Illustration: BIHGAR BEY]
+
+After a few days in our first clearing, we moved to another, a short
+distance off, this being considered rather safer. There were a good many
+houses round about and people passed by a path running within 50 yards
+of where we lay, so that we had to keep very quiet. After three or four
+days here we began to get a little impatient, Bihgar Bey being somewhat
+indefinite; but at last one night, after going off at dark to meet some
+of the others, he came back and woke us up at midnight and told us to
+hurry up, as we were off. We hoped we might get right down to the coast
+and find the boat ready, but this was not to be. After a second meeting
+under the tree in the maize-field and a farewell to the old Greek, we
+set off down a lane and past some houses where the inevitable dog was
+soon aroused. However, no one came out and we got out to a field near
+the main road, where, after a wait of an hour, we were met by Kiarmil,
+whom we had not seen since the first day. At this point, the others had
+also met us and had with them a pony laden with bread and a little
+cheese, which were to be our rations on the voyage. The party now
+consisted of twelve of the akhardash and a boy with the pony, the latter
+not intending to leave the country with us.
+
+We learnt that they had had a long fight with the gendarmes the day
+before, one being killed on each side. Apparently, the gendarmes had
+rounded them up in a village where they were preparing the food which
+they had now brought. There were, they said, 80 gendarmes, whereas they
+had only eight! Anyhow, our guide of a few nights before, a swarthy,
+powerful looking man, had been killed, but in the end they had succeeded
+in getting away from the gendarmes or driving them off. The story,
+naturally, lost nothing in the telling and we never quite knew what to
+believe. At first, from their accounts, it sounded as if they had
+deliberately invited a scrap, and it was some time before we found out
+that they had been almost surrounded. They also brought the news that
+hundreds of gendarmes were being sent to Sinope from Kastamuni, but as
+there were never many at Kastamuni we were somewhat sceptical about this
+also. Crossing the main road, we found we were close to the sea, and a
+little further on entered a copse where we spent the rest of the night.
+At dawn we went still further in, and sentries were posted. Meanwhile,
+the pony boy had gone off on his steed to Sinope to interview the
+boatman, and we waited till the afternoon, hoping that we might hear the
+boat was coming to pick us up that night. Our hopes were dashed again
+when the boy returned with the news that the boat and its proprietor
+were not in Sinope, but had gone round the coast to the next port to the
+west.
+
+The akhardash decided it was too risky to stay where we were and,
+therefore, we moved again at nightfall. After following the main road a
+little way on towards Sinope we left it, climbing slowly and going
+farther away from the sea. After some hours they found that they had
+missed the way again, although we were close to our destination, which
+was the inevitable akhardash's house. Making across some fields and
+hedges, we gained a lane, but soon had to leave this, as carts were
+heard coming along. Luckily, Turkish carts make their presence known
+a long way off by their perpetual creaking, so that we were all
+safely under cover by the time they passed. A certain amount of
+misunderstanding now arose, Bihgar not seeing eye to eye with another of
+the akhardash who knew best our whereabouts, with the result that we
+nearly split up into two or more groups in the darkness.
+
+However, we eventually all got together again, and reached the house of
+our new host or rather the field surrounding it. He came to meet us and
+escorted us to a wood close by. Here we slept till dawn and then moved
+farther into the trees. This old man was evidently a more influential
+"comrade" than most of those we had met so far. His house was a good
+deal larger than the average and he was treated with great respect.
+Another more humble supporter also appeared, and between the two we were
+provided with food. Late in the day, the old man departed for Sinope,
+and our hopes again ran high that he would be successful in arranging
+for the boat. Disappointment was once more in store for us on his return
+about six o'clock. The leading three or four conferred apart with him,
+and it was not until afterwards that we were told that the Turks were so
+bent on preventing us leaving the country that they had had all boats
+pulled up, masts and sails taken out and guarded, and that no boat was
+allowed to put to sea from Sinope to eastwards of Kusafet, the place
+where we had been recaptured. The akhardash said that, this being the
+case, we must try elsewhere, and they proposed to march off towards
+Iyenjak, a little town about 30 miles westwards, where the restrictions
+imposed at Sinope would probably not be in force and where they hoped to
+get another boat. They said if this failed they would then go east
+towards Samsun, a distance of fully 100 miles across rough mountainous
+country.
+
+We were beginning to wonder if they ever would get afloat. On August
+27th, when they had rescued us, they declared everything would be ready
+in three or four days. It was now September and our early sailing seemed
+more unlikely than ever. In addition to this our boots were nearly worn
+out, and physically we were not in particularly good condition. It
+looked as if they would have a much better chance of getting off without
+us, so we decided to offer to go off on our own and leave them free. We
+explained that it was a hanging matter for them if caught, whereas it
+only meant a few months in prison for us. They realized this only too
+clearly, but would not hear of our leaving them for an instant, and
+declared they would get a boat, however much it might cost.
+
+Kiarmil, upon whose person all the wealth of the party had been
+concealed in various places when it was thought we were about to embark,
+now began to disgorge his treasure and divide it up again. Musa appeared
+to be by far the richest of the party and seemed to be quite a country
+gentleman. He told us he would lose his house, cattle and land worth
+thousands of pounds. These would all be confiscated by the Turkish
+authorities, but he confidently hoped with the next change of Government
+to return to the country and get it all back again with a little more
+besides. Some of the others were in a similar situation in a lesser
+degree. They had succeeded in changing most of their money into Russian
+notes which had somehow found their way into Sinope and Jerse, and these
+transactions had delayed their preparations a good deal.
+
+After a supper which included a little meat and was therefore noteworthy
+in itself, we set off again on the march, but found we had left behind
+one of our party who had had fever. At the start, we made good progress
+along a road, but then turned off to follow a river down the valley. To
+find the track was not always easy. Many fences had to be partially
+demolished to allow the pony to get through, and no effort was ever made
+to repair the damage or conceal our tracks. After crossing a good deal
+of cultivated land, we reached the river bed and began the type of march
+we knew so well, crossing continually from one side to the other,
+stumbling along over boulders and rocks. About three o'clock in the
+morning, we reached a thicket in a lonely part of the valley where the
+sides had narrowed considerably. They decided to halt here till the next
+night, much to our relief. Cross-country marching by night is never a
+very easy mode of progression, but when an attempt is made to use a
+stony river bed as a road it becomes a prolonged torture.
+
+No incident marked the following day, and just before dark we were off
+once more. As dawn was breaking we reached the neighbourhood of yet
+another akhardash's house and went into hiding in thick brushwood which
+was soaking with dew. Just as we had got settled down, Bihgar for some
+reason decided that we three would be safer elsewhere, and much to our
+disgust hustled us off to an equally wet spot in a thicket on the
+opposite side of the road. He was always prone to worry and fuss a great
+deal more than the others, and later on in the day, in a rash moment, I
+expostulated with him, going through a little pantomime to show how he
+had acted in the morning. The effect was startling and a great deal more
+than I had bargained for. He began by fervently kissing my hand,
+declaring he was our servant and that everything he did was for our
+benefit. I hastened to stop the flood of protest and affection which I
+had unwittingly let loose, but it was some time before he was calm
+again.
+
+That evening we moved on, having been fed during the day by the local
+akhardash. We were now under the command of the fellow we termed the Fat
+Boy, Bihgar having gone off with some of the others to interview another
+friend regarding a boat. This man never worried at all, and would shout
+to men on guard over the crops as if he were a countryman returning home
+late. The fires all over the countryside at night in this district were
+used for scaring wild pig from the maize and other crops. In nearly
+every field would be a small perch for a man, who would keep a blaze
+going beside him and make various noises to scare off the intruders.
+Most of them had old guns of some sort and frequently a shot would be
+heard. The subject of pig formed a perpetual joke; the akhardash, as
+Mussulmans, declaring it was not good to eat, whereas we always offered
+to show them how good it was if they would bring us one. Another source
+of never-ending merriment was the prophecy that Tip would be taken
+prisoner when flying in France and again be sent to Kastamuni.
+
+Towards midnight we reached a big wood and, under the guidance of a new
+supporter, found a sheltered spot beneath lofty trees. The character of
+the country had altered a good deal since we had reached the coast. Here
+the rainfall was evidently a great deal heavier than it was at Kastamuni
+and the climate milder, with the result that all sorts of trees abounded
+and the vegetation was much thicker. This was the first spot considered
+safe enough by our friends for a fire and they soon had a fine blaze
+going. We lay down in the warmth and were quickly asleep. Our comfort
+was short-lived, however, as it began to rain heavily. A small oil silk
+sheet which had belonged to Sweet kept me dry for a time, but it soon
+became necessary to move, as the fire had nearly gone out and another
+had been started further away. Tip evinced a wonderful power of being
+able to sleep when lying in a puddle and soaked through. The akhardash
+were experts at fire-lighting, under all circumstances, and skilfully
+arranged the logs to protect the inside of the blaze from the rain.
+
+In the afternoon we moved on under the guidance of two sturdy lads, one
+of whom with the aid of an axe cut a way for us through the brushwood
+and made a track up the steep hill, along which the pony struggled
+heroically. On reaching higher ground we found a path and followed this
+a little further to a water trough, near which we camped, another fire
+being lighted at once. Our guide of the night before turned out to be a
+Turkish soldier on leave, but he showed little surprise on finding out
+who we were. The other lads had also been in the Army and, as far as we
+could make out, had been sent to their homes on account of the shortage
+of rations in Constantinople. They bore us no ill will and evidently
+thought that the Gallipoli campaign showed them to be the better
+soldiers of the two. They knew nothing about our having taken Bagdad and
+were quite ignorant of all other war news. The following day was fine
+at intervals, generally just long enough to allow of our drying our
+clothes before it began again. Our diet had been limited to coarse
+Turkish bread, of a most indigestible and half-baked variety, with
+potatoes and meat which we cooked by toasting small pieces on long
+sticks; but now the bread ran out and for two days we lived almost
+entirely on potatoes. The erstwhile soldiers also brought us a number of
+small pears. For washing we had the trough, but while the rain continued
+and for some time after each shower a small stream flowed down beside
+our camp.
+
+The next event of interest was the arrival of a visitor who brought with
+him a sheep. We were told that this man had been employed in the
+_gendarmerie_, but was now also leaving for Russia and intended to sail
+in ten days' time. He suddenly wanted our party to postpone their
+departure, so that he might join us, but this was not agreed to. To show
+his good faith, he had brought the sheep as a present and no time was
+lost in turning it into mutton. A long pole was cut and supported
+horizontally on two Y pieces driven into the ground beside the fire. The
+sheep's carcase was scientifically balanced and tied to the pole and the
+roasting process then began, the pole being slowly turned in the
+supports. We made use of our canteens and anything else we could get
+hold of to catch the dripping: butter had been scarce and any substitute
+was greatly in demand. Our experience in this connection was that coarse
+indigestible bread became much less harmful when any butter could be had
+to eat with it.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+THREE DAYS ON THE BLACK SEA
+
+
+There had been a certain amount of going and coming amongst the
+akhardash during the days we spent in this wood, but on September 19th
+Bihgar Bey arrived and declared everything was arranged. A boat said to
+be quite new had been purchased for 400 liras. This sum had been paid in
+hard cash, gold and silver, a fact of more interest than might appear
+since at this time not a single coin of any description was to be seen
+in the bazaars in Turkey. Notes had been issued down to 1 piastre and
+below this postage stamps were used. We again offered to contribute a
+share to the cost of the boat, but they would not hear of it. Nearly all
+of them had some gold coins, English sovereigns being as numerous as
+Turkish lira pieces. The following day, September 20th, our gendarme
+friend again appeared, bringing another sheep, which was cooked without
+delay in the same manner as the first. We were to leave that evening at
+six o'clock, go down to the coast and embark the following evening. At
+last everything seemed to have been definitely arranged and our spirits
+rose accordingly.
+
+A dark night march followed over some bad going and as we got lower down
+we entered the inevitable river bed. This lasted for an hour only and we
+then climbed a hill and found ourselves in a small copse immediately
+above the sea.
+
+Since our recapture at the coast we reckoned we had covered about 150
+miles, while our trek from Kastamuni to the coast must have been about
+200 miles.
+
+In the morning the pony boy was sent along to interview the boat owner,
+and on his return we were told the boat was to come along at dark and we
+were to embark at eleven o'clock. The day passed uneventfully, and there
+was nothing to be done but to lie still and hope that no misfortune
+would upset the scheme at the last moment. On these occasions the
+akhardash posted one or more sentries round our hiding-place and great
+care was taken to make no noise. As it grew dark Bihgar told us to go to
+sleep and said he would awaken us when the boat came. No sign of the
+boat had been seen and they were evidently much worried. It looked as
+if even now something had gone wrong. The pony boy was despatched again,
+and returned hours later to say that the boat had left as arranged.
+
+Meanwhile, we had gone to sleep and did not wake until dawn. An awful
+presentiment seized us that another failure had occurred. However, as it
+grew light, the sentries who had not seen the boat the night before
+discovered it a quarter of a mile away across a stream with a fire lit
+on the beach above it. This had, apparently, been the signal, but for
+some reason had not been seen. No time was now lost in getting down to
+the boat. The pony boy galloped off, presumably to his home, and we
+trust never aroused the suspicions of the authorities. The sacks
+containing the bread for the voyage were carried down and put on board,
+and a kerosine tin and keg from the boat taken to the stream to provide
+the water supply. Meanwhile, others had been ballasting the boat with
+boulders from the beach. Just as the water was being brought back to the
+boat an old sentry emerged from a tumble-down house on the beach, which
+our friends had, apparently, thought to be deserted. He had scarcely
+taken in the situation before he was disarmed and tied up near the
+house. His Mauser rifle and ammunition were all taken from him, and in
+exchange he was left with an old Greek rifle, but without a round to put
+in it. The last of the party pushing off the boat leaped on board, and
+with thankful hearts we felt we really were off at last. Our vessel was
+the usual type of coastal fishing boat, with a single big sail. She was
+about twenty-four feet long and between two or three tons displacement,
+but, whereas we had been expecting a new boat, we now found a very old
+one with mast and rigging that looked anything but trustworthy, the only
+sign of any recent attention being a little fresh paint here and there.
+However, we had left Turkey and had a boat and that was all we wanted.
+The question of navigation and handling the boat we left to start with
+to the akhardash, of whom several said they were accustomed to sailing
+and knew all about it; but we relied on Tip's experience to help us
+along if our other friends failed.
+
+[Illustration: BOAT IN WHICH THE PARTY CROSSED THE BLACK SEA]
+
+The first thing that engaged our attention, when the boat had been
+pushed off, was another vessel of the same type which was very slowly
+making its way close in along the coast and was now quite near to us.
+The result of a short palaver amongst the akhardash was that they rowed
+quietly up to this boat, not a rifle showing and all except the four
+rowers sitting down as quiet as mice. On getting up to the new-comer
+they all jumped up and levelled their rifles at the unfortunate crew in
+true pirate style. The crew had no course left but to accept any orders
+they were given, and after a few minutes' violent yelling and
+gesticulation their captain and one other were transferred to our boat,
+while Musa and the Fat Boy took their places in the other. Both boats
+now sailed off in company. There was a good breeze from the east and
+they had decided to make for Sevastopol; but it soon became evident that
+they had little idea of the direction as a course N.E. was taken,
+whereas Sevastopol lay rather to the west of the point at which we left
+the coast. Other diversions, however, put questions of direction in the
+background for some time. To start with, the spar in our boat very
+nearly broke in two and had to be lowered and patched with two small
+pieces of wood and some old nails, a makeshift which gave little promise
+of being a permanent remedy. This was not accomplished without a
+tremendous hullabaloo, in which Bihgar played a prominent part. Arms
+were waving and all seemed to be yelling instructions to all the others.
+
+During the process the end of the rope suspending the spar ran through
+the pulley at the top of the mast, and it became necessary to get it
+back again somehow. The captured captain of the second boat made a noble
+effort, swarming up the mast and holding on to the shrouds like a
+monkey; but the boat was rocking about a good deal and after several
+vain attempts he had to give it up. This necessitated the mast being
+unshipped and causing more frantic excitement, especially when the
+moment arrived to put it up again. But, in the end, the feat was
+successfully accomplished and both boats sailed off in company. The
+breeze was strong and the sea choppy. Several of the akhardash at once
+became _hors de combat_ and remained nearly motionless at the bottom of
+the boat for the next three days. It was a glorious morning, and, as we
+watched the coast receding, we were more than repaid for all the
+discomfort of the last few weeks. The Sinope headland stood out away on
+our right, and it was not till late in the afternoon that we were out of
+sight of the mountains. A small boat crossed our course soon after
+starting, but there were no signs of any pursuit or commotion on shore.
+We wondered what stories of our doings would reach our friends in
+Kastamuni, and were pretty sure that the Turks would tell them we had
+come to an unhappy end at the hands of the "brigands."
+
+We now attempted to get our friends to steer a course more nearly north
+instead of north-east; but they would not do so, as they were in a
+terrible state of apprehension lest they should reach Rumanian territory
+occupied by Germans. K. produced our chart--the largest map of the Black
+Sea we had been able to find at Kastamuni--but it was only some three or
+four inches long and coming as it did from an "Ancient Atlas" showed the
+Greek colonies in 500 B.C. and nothing more modern. We were not sure of
+the exact position of Sevastopol but did not allow our friends to know.
+Whatever was urged had no effect and the course remained N.E.
+
+[Illustration: MAP (ACTUAL SIZE) OF THE BLACK SEA]
+
+When dark came on, it soon became evident that neither our captured
+mariners nor the akhardash had the least idea of steering by the stars;
+and, finally, about midnight, Tip discovered we were going about due
+east. We thought it was high time we took charge, and therefore arranged
+to take watches, one of us sitting up beside the steersman and keeping
+the direction a little west of north. The boat had no cabin, but the
+stern was decked across and we were allowed to keep this to ourselves.
+All the first day there had been a good breeze, but it became much
+feebler at night. With dawn the wind grew stronger again, and we were
+making a good pace in company with the second boat when, at nine
+o'clock, signals of distress from her were noticed. She was about 300
+yards from us at the time and it was impossible to make out what had
+happened. Pandemonium at once reigned on board and we thought by the
+commotion that our companion must be sinking. After much shouting, our
+sail was lowered, the oars got out and the vessel slowly brought up to
+our comrade in distress, only to find that the latter had broken her
+rudder. Much shouting now took place on both sides. Any thought of
+steering with an oar was never entertained and they decided to abandon
+one boat. As the captured second boat was so much the better of the two,
+an attempt was made to substitute our rudder in her, but without
+success. The result was that she was abandoned after transferring her
+crew, sail and spar, and part of her cargo to our boat. We were now
+packed very tightly, having a total of nineteen on board. Some of the
+ballast had been thrown overboard, but not enough to compensate for the
+additional load. Had we realized at the time that the second boat had a
+valuable cargo of kerosine, the price of which was fabulous in Turkey,
+we should have made some attempt to salve her or, at all events, have
+set her on fire. This information was not divulged till afterwards, but
+even so it is doubtful if she would not have sunk before drifting ashore
+or being discovered by another boat.
+
+All went well, despite the crowd, until about midday, when the wind
+dropped altogether and rowing had to be resorted to. The boat was
+arranged for four oars and it was in this capacity that the captured
+crew proved of the greatest service. They were relieved at intervals by
+some of the akhardash. We calculated our speed when rowing at about two
+miles an hour, whereas for the first 24 hours it must have been at least
+double this. I plotted our course as nearly as possible on the
+diminutive map, and it was annoying to see how much further on we should
+have been had we started in the right direction the day before.
+
+Our rations were the coarse bread, together with a little honey and
+butter which we had preserved for some days; but as neither of the
+latter could be said to be good they were not of much value. Some of our
+Horlick's milk was still left, and this helped matters along.
+
+The morning of the third day broke with windless serenity and rowing
+went on uninterruptedly. The sky was perfectly clear, but at midday we
+noticed some very small clouds straight ahead which seemed stationary.
+We held on our course, trusting that the clouds meant land. At 6 o'clock
+that morning, as far as we could make out from the chart, we were at
+least seventy miles from the nearest point of the Crimea.
+
+During the afternoon the question of rations and water was discussed,
+and we decided that if land was not in sight the next morning to take
+over all the remaining bread and water and distribute it ourselves, as
+the akhardash had not the least idea of rationing and used to eat and
+drink as the inclination prompted them. We had not liked to interfere
+before, but now it was a matter of necessity.
+
+The sun set in a glorious blaze, and just at this moment there was a
+commotion at the forward end of the boat and the word went round that
+land was sighted. It was anything but clear, but we took the word of the
+sailors for it and every one became much excited. Just before this
+event, Keor had made a fire in the bottom of the boat, making a hearth
+with some of the stone ballast and using some floor boards and any other
+bits of wood he could find as fuel. On this was cooked some meal which
+had been brought in from the abandoned boat; sea water was used to boil
+it and a very useful sort of porridge resulted.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+THE CRIMEA AND HOME
+
+
+At dawn on the fourth day, September 25th, the land was very clear and
+we could see a lofty headland which ran steeply down to the sea. An hour
+or two later, we could make out houses and then it became clear that we
+were approaching some seaside resort. All through the previous two days,
+after we had taken charge of the steering, the akhardash had continually
+inquired whether the "road" was "good" and they were now more than
+satisfied that we knew the best way over the sea. Fortune had been with
+us, in giving us fine weather and clear skies by day and night;
+otherwise we might have reached a very different destination. Rowing on
+steadily, it was soon clear that the place was quite extensive and
+probably much frequented. Several large buildings could be seen and
+something which looked like a pier or jetty, to which we now steered. It
+was not until one o'clock that we finally reached this spot and landed,
+to find ourselves opposite the baths.
+
+For days we had talked of the delights of a good hot bath and now we had
+come straight to the very place. We were met by a Swiss who was bathing.
+He hurried off to dress, but before he could return we were accosted by
+several other people, notably a retired Russian general and an American
+diplomat who lent us clothes and escorted us to the baths. After getting
+really clean once more, we were taken to a _pension_ and made the guests
+of the hospitable Russian ladies to whom it belonged. They told us the
+place was called Alupka and was one of the most popular seaside places
+in Russia. Meanwhile the akhardash had been escorted into the town. In
+the morning they had begun to don their bandoliers and handle their
+rifles, but we persuaded them that they would be looked upon in a more
+friendly manner on landing if they abandoned these weapons.
+
+[Illustration: ALUPKA]
+
+It had taken us 78 hours to cross the 180 miles of sea, but actually we
+must have sailed well over 200 miles. We found that, comparing our
+position on the third morning with the spot we had marked on the map, we
+were only some twenty miles out, which, as amateur navigators, we
+considered quite good work.
+
+At the _pension_ we were given lunch, and wine was produced in our
+honour by our new friends. We shall never forget their kindness, and the
+extraordinary feeling of being amongst all the amenities of civilization
+once more after two years under other conditions. In the afternoon, we
+were taken to the municipal office and there interviewed by a very
+business-like and intelligent lady who seemed to combine the duties of
+commissioner of police and most other municipal departments. Our friends
+told us that there was some difficulty in establishing our identity,
+since the commandant of the town--who a few months earlier before the
+Revolution had been an actor--was very suspicious and inclined to
+believe we were really Germans. In fact, some splendid stories were
+going about. According to one, a boat-load of Turks under the command of
+three German officers had attacked the town, one of the Germans being
+wounded. Tip had been to see a doctor and this no doubt lent colour to
+the idea. At all events, the commandant told off a sentry to shadow us
+about wherever we went.
+
+The akhardash, we found, had been accommodated in the central police
+building, where they had been given plenty of food and seemed to be
+receiving visitors. We bought them some fruit and tried to cheer them
+up, as they had imagined they would be received with triumphal
+rejoicings and were somewhat crestfallen at being treated more like
+prisoners. Our first object was to get in touch with the nearest British
+consul, so as to put their case before him and get matters explained to
+the Russian authorities; but no one seemed to know where the nearest
+consul was to be found. We got telegrams sent off to our people at home
+addressed to the Embassy at Petrograd. It was hopeless at this time to
+try to get private telegrams through, and for mails from home we found
+they were even worse off here than we had been in Kastamuni. It was
+strange, indeed, being in a spick and span town, with well made roads
+and everything clean and up-to-date, after the filthy dilapidation which
+characterizes everything in connection with the Turk.
+
+[Illustration: THE ALUPKA BATHS]
+
+Some people we met seemed rather annoyed that we had not struck a mine,
+as they assured us there was a large minefield through which we had
+passed. We discovered, later, this was quite wrong, but in any case our
+boat was of much too shallow draft to be in much danger. Others told us
+that we were fortunate to land where we did, as had we gone a little
+further east we should have come to the estates of some of the Grand
+Dukes who at that time were interned under armed guards, with orders to
+prevent anyone approaching from land or sea! We were told that every one
+was on rations and that food was getting scarce. One of the most
+striking contrasts to Turkey was the magnificent fruit on sale, grapes,
+pears and peaches, all evidently cultivated with great skill.
+
+As we emerged from our interview with the lady commissioner, we were
+summoned to halt in order to be cinematographed by the representatives
+of some Moscow firm. All the educated people we met in Russia were
+kindness itself to us and made our journey through the country very
+pleasant. It was pathetic to be asked, as we were, to tell people in
+England that not every one in Russia is bad and worthless. All classes,
+we found, had welcomed the Revolution when it started, thinking a new
+and brighter era had dawned; but it very soon became clear that the
+pendulum was swinging much too far in the other direction, and no one
+would dare to prophesy what might happen next. Fortunately for us, there
+was no actual internal fighting taking place at the time and we got
+through the country without trouble.
+
+The following day we left Alupka by motor for Yalta, a port a little
+further east. The road led past some of the Grand Dukes' estates and
+Livadia, the Tsar's Crimean palace. The scenery all along was
+magnificent, the pine-clad hillsides sloping steeply down to the blue,
+with white houses or palaces. Yalta itself was one of the most charming
+spots it had been our good fortune to see, and is easily equal in beauty
+to any of the Riviera resorts. From here we were to travel by night by a
+transport back past Alupka, reaching Sevastopol on the following
+morning, but before leaving a surprise was in store for us. As we had
+some time to wait, we went into an hotel, with the officer conducting
+us, for tea. This, however, we found was the headquarters of the local
+committee of soldiers and workmen, and a few minutes later we were asked
+to go into their meeting hall to receive their congratulations. This
+promised to be rather awkward, as we knew no word of Russian; but
+fortunately a schoolmaster who knew French was introduced to us. As we
+entered the room, the soldiers and sailors present all clapped
+vigorously. There were about 30 or 40 present and it was necessary, as
+on every possible occasion in Russia, to shake hands all round. The
+schoolmaster then gave a harrowing account of our imprisonment in
+Turkey and told them how we had eventually escaped and reached Russia.
+He appeared to say that we had been manacled in chains and endured the
+worst possible fortune as prisoners. After a suitable expression of
+thanks conveyed through the schoolmaster, we shook hands again all round
+and returned to our tea. This was our only actual meeting with a
+revolutionary committee, and we are bound to say they seemed to have no
+love for the Turk or any wish to leave their Allies in the lurch by
+concluding a separate peace.
+
+[Illustration: YALTA]
+
+The transports steamed only at night and kept close into the coast for
+fear of possible submarines; so that the chances of our being picked up
+by one on our way over had been very remote.
+
+The akhardash travelled with us to Sevastopol, and on arrival there we
+met the British Naval Representative, Commander Sage, R.N., who looked
+after us for the next few days. As he spoke Russian fluently and was in
+touch with all the highest authorities, we had no trouble of any sort.
+The akhardash were handed over to the Russian Staff authorities, who
+provided them with good quarters on a ship in the harbour. We three
+lived with Commander Sage on an auxiliary cruiser, the _Almaz_, which
+had previously been used as a private yacht by the Grand Dukes. The
+akhardash had for some time wished that we should all be photographed
+together and we, too, were anxious to have such mementoes of our time
+with them. The Russian Staff very kindly arranged it and we had two
+groups taken, one with our original rescuers with their rifles and
+bandoliers, and one with all the others included. Unfortunately Keor,
+the old Armenian, was ill in hospital and could not be present. As some
+days had elapsed before the photos were taken, our friends had obtained
+new clothing and hats and, therefore, did not present the picturesque
+appearance to which we had become accustomed. As regards some recompense
+for all their services, we could not get them to accept anything more
+than what they had spent on our food during all the time we were with
+them, but the Russians paid them the exact sum they had given for the
+boat, so that they were not out of pocket on that account. As souvenirs,
+they had given us each one of their long Caucasian daggers, and we in
+return got wrist watches for them and a suitably inscribed cigarette
+case for Bihgar Bey. We left them in good hands and have often wondered
+since what has been their fortune. No men could have acted more pluckily
+in rescuing us in the first place, or taken more trouble over our
+comfort and welfare during the weeks we spent with them in the hills and
+woods; and never shall we forget how much we owe them.
+
+[Illustration: THE THREE OFFICERS AND THREE OF THEIR RESCUERS]
+
+After some days in Sevastopol, we said good-bye to them and went round
+to Odessa on the _Almaz_, where we made arrangements with the British
+consul for our journey home. At Odessa we were entertained at a most
+convivial dinner by the British and American Club. Like all dinners in
+Russia, it proved prolific in speeches, a start being made with the
+King's health, in the middle of the fish course, by an enthusiastic
+American. From these speeches we learnt how whole-heartedly the great
+American nation had entered the struggle and the efforts they were
+making in Russia, more especially with regard to improving the railways.
+Coming out of the obscurity of Turkey, these things were new to us,
+although by reading between the lines of the Turkish papers we had been
+able to get a fair idea of the general position on the actual battle
+fronts. Another speaker told a pitiful story of the position in Rumania
+and of the appalling lack of medical stores and awful ravages of disease
+in the Army. A visit to the races and opera helped to pass two very
+enjoyable days before saying good-bye to Commander Sage and our new
+friends, and leaving for Mogileff, the then headquarters on the Russian
+front to which we had been summoned by the British Mission.
+
+On our way we passed through Kieff, a magnificent town, peopled very
+largely by Poles. Here we met some forlorn British gunners who did not
+know what was to be their fate, but were soon, I trust, back in England.
+After a day in Mogileff we went on to Petrograd. Travelling even at this
+time was very comfortable on the Russian lines, for those with passes
+such as we possessed, except for the temperature of the carriages. In
+some it was impossible to open any window. The result was that we all
+got heavy colds, although during the past six weeks we had kept fit
+while sleeping out in the open and occasionally getting soaked through.
+
+Petrograd was cold, wet, and dreary, and we spent our time in rushing
+about between the various departments before we could get passports and
+tickets through to Bergen. We, eventually, accomplished this by hard
+work in three days, and were then told we were fortunate not to have
+been kept at it for a week. It was necessary to borrow mufti to travel
+through Sweden and Norway. Clothes in Russia were practically
+unobtainable, but, fortunately for us, two naval officers at the
+Embassy came to our rescue by most generously giving us the necessary
+garments. We were also indebted to the Red Cross Depot at the Embassy
+for other assistance in the way of clothes.
+
+[Illustration: THE THREE OFFICERS AND THE AKHARDASH]
+
+Tip and I left on October 14th, and after an interesting trip through
+Sweden and Norway reached Aberdeen ten days later.
+
+K., on the other hand, returned to the Black Sea. It had been hoped, and
+we had done our best to arrange, that an attempt should be made with the
+assistance of the akhardash to release some of the other officers at
+Kastamuni. Unfortunately this plan never materialized: for one thing our
+friends were moved further inland from Kastamuni before any attempt
+could be made, and when everything was settled on our side the Bolshevik
+rising had commenced and brought all plans to a standstill. K. reached
+England two months later, after having made a trip over to the Turkish
+coast in a Russian destroyer, and worked in every conceivable way to
+bring off the scheme for the rescue of the other officers. His
+persistent but unsuccessful efforts bring the account of our adventures
+to a close.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+FRIENDS IN CAPTIVITY
+
+
+This story would not be complete without recording the deaths of Captain
+R. J. Tipton, R.F.C., and Captain R. T. Sweet, D.S.O., 2/7th Ghurka
+Rifles.
+
+Tipton, after very few days at home, reported again for duty and would
+not rest content until he had obtained leave to fly and fight over the
+German lines. For this purpose he had refused his majority. On March 9th
+he was severely wounded in a fight with a Hun whom he brought down. With
+great courage and skill he brought his own machine back and landed
+safely, but the injury he had received proved fatal and he died three
+days later.
+
+Tipton thus went back to fight at the earliest possible moment, feeling
+it his duty to the other officers left behind in Turkey, who were bound
+to be suffering for our escape. Although the youngest of our party, he
+was our leader on the long journey to the coast; and to his unfailing
+good humour and tact we owed much more than we realized at the time.
+Although in pain for many days, he kept cheerfully on and would never
+give in.
+
+Few men have been more beloved by all with whom they came in contact,
+and his gallant death has left a wide blank in the affections of all who
+had the privilege to know him.
+
+Sweet, whose gallantry at Kut had earned him the D.S.O., was imprisoned
+at Angora, after being brought back from the coast, and exhibited to the
+other officers at Kastamuni for a few minutes on the way. He shouted to
+them to take a few days' provisions and try their luck, that it was
+quite easy to get away, and that he meant to start again the first
+chance he had. In reply they cheered him, much to the disgust of the
+Turks.
+
+After two dreadful months in the civil prison at Angora, he was taken to
+the officers' camp at Yozgad, a place 4,000 feet above the sea amongst
+the hills, in the very centre of Asia Minor. Here he remained till a few
+weeks before the armistice with Turkey was announced, when he fell a
+victim to the influenza scourge and died of pneumonia.
+
+In our escape Sweet was always the most indefatigable, and on many an
+occasion spurred us on when we three had no energy left. His knowledge
+of Turkish was invaluable and enabled us successfully to bluff our way
+along during the days when we were posing as Germans. It was only the
+merest accident that parted him from us when the akhardash arrived, and
+it is hard to feel that so small a thing should have ultimately resulted
+in the death of such a brave officer.
+
+The first officers who died in Kastamuni were Lieutenants Reynolds, of
+the 103rd L.I., and Lock, of the I.A.R.O., attached 104th Rifles.
+Reynolds had been unwell during most of the journey up and, undoubtedly,
+had not got over the hardships of the siege; he succumbed within a few
+days of our arrival. Lock, who had been an indigo planter in Bihar, went
+down with peritonitis very shortly afterwards. Both officers had done
+well in Kut and were greatly liked by all who knew them. Their death in
+a strange country, after the worst of our troubles seemed to be over,
+was all the sadder to think of.
+
+The third officer who died was Commander Crabtree, R.N.R., of the S.Y.
+_Zaida_, which struck a mine while patrolling the Adana coast. He,
+along with three other officers from the same ship, was sent on to
+Kastamuni. At Angora he was ill, but the Turks considered him fit enough
+to travel, and sent him on in a springless country cart over the 140
+miles of rough road to Kastamuni. Riding in a cart over this road is bad
+enough for a fit man, but in his case it must have simply jolted him to
+death. At all events, he arrived dying, and never regained
+consciousness.
+
+Another sad death occurred amongst the officers after they had been
+moved to Changri from Kastamuni. On Christmas Day, 1917, Major Corbett,
+48th Pioneers, died suddenly from an aneurism of the heart after some
+strenuous tobogganing, which had been allowed as a special concession.
+
+Major Corbett was one of those officers who assisted our party to escape
+and would himself have come with us had he considered there was any
+small chance of success. To the camp at Kastamuni he was invaluable as
+staff officer to the lower group of houses, always energetic and cheery
+and turning his hand to something. Carpentry formed his chief occupation
+when not playing games.
+
+He was one of those men whom we felt we simply could not do without, and
+his loss may well be imagined in the camp at Changri, where conditions
+had been rough and painful in the extreme.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX A
+
+_GARRISON OF KUT_
+
+
+HEADQUARTERS
+
+MAJOR-GEN. C. V. TOWNSHEND, G.O.C.
+
+ { 2nd Dorsets.
+ 16th Infantry Brigade, { 66th Punjabis.
+ MAJ.-GEN. DELAMAIN. { 104th Rifles.
+ { 117th Mahrattas.
+
+ { Oxford and Bucks L.I.
+ 17th Infantry Brigade, { 22nd Punjabis.
+ GEN. HOGHTON. { 103rd Infantry.
+ { 119th Infantry.
+
+ { 2nd Norfolks.
+ 18th Infantry Brigade, { 120th Infantry.
+ GEN. HAMILTON. { 110th Infantry.
+ { 7th Rajputs.
+
+ { 2 Coys. Royal West Kents.
+ { 3 Coys. 4th Hants T.F.
+ 30th Infantry Brigade, { 2/7th Ghurka Rifles.
+ MAJ.-GEN. MELLIS. { 24th Punjabis.
+ { 67th Punjabis.
+ { 76th Punjabis.
+
+
+DIVISIONAL TROOPS
+
+ 17th Coy., S. & M.
+ 34th (Poona) Signalling Co.
+ Sirmoor Sappers (Imperial Service).
+ 1 Squadron 7th Hariana Lancers.
+ 48th Pioneers.
+ 63rd, 76th, 82nd Batteries, R.F.A. 18 guns, 18 pdr.
+ 104th Battery, R.G.A. 2 4" guns.
+ 84th Battery, R.G.A. 4 5" guns.
+ Volunteer Battery. 4 15 pdr. guns.
+ "S" Battery, R.H.A., left behind 2 14 pdr. guns.
+
+ Naval Detachment. 4 4.7" pdr. guns.
+
+ H.M.S. _Samarra_: 2 3 pdr. guns; 1 13 pdr. gun.
+ Machine Gun Battery (6 guns).
+ Supply and Transport, including Jeypore
+ Transport Train, Wireless, Royal Flying Corps,
+ Depot and other details.
+
+
+MEDICAL SERVICE
+
+ One British General Hospital.
+ One Indian General Hospital.
+ 3 Field Ambulances.
+
+
+ _Strength of garrison at_ _Strength on_
+ _beginning of siege._ _surrender._
+
+ British Officers 301 277
+ British Rank and File 2,851 2,592
+ Indian Officers 225 204
+ Indian Rank and File 8,230 6,988
+ Indian Followers 3,530 3,248
+ ------ ------
+ Total 15,137 13,309
+ ====== ======
+
+ Losses: Killed and died of wounds, 1,025.
+ Died of disease, and missing, 803.
+ Arab population of Kut (?) 3,700.
+ Animals (horses and mules) before killing for food, 3,000.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX B
+
+
+Copy of translation of pamphlets thrown over from Turkish trenches
+towards our line during the earlier part of the siege and picked up
+between the two old lines when these had been evacuated on Jan. 21st.
+
+ OH DEAR INDIAN BRETHREN,
+
+ You understand the fact well that God has created this war for the
+ sake of setting India free from the hands of the cruel English. That
+ is the reason why all the Rajahs and Nawabs with the help of Brave
+ Indian soldiers are at present creating disturbances in all parts of
+ India and are forcing the English out of the country. Consequently
+ not a single Englishman is to be seen in the N.W. Frontier of India
+ districts of Saad, Chakdara, Mohmand and Kohat. Brave Indian
+ soldiers have killed several of their officers at Singapore,
+ Secunderabad and Meerut cantonments. Many of the Indian soldiers
+ have on several occasions joined our allies the Turks, Germans, and
+ Austrians of which you must have heard.
+
+ O heroes! our friends the Turks, Germans and Austrians are trying
+ merely for the freedom of our country (India) from the English and
+ you being Indians are fighting against them thus causing delay. On
+ seeing your degraded position one feels severely ashamed (lit.
+ 'blood in the eyes') that you have not got fed up of their
+ disgraceful conduct and hatred towards you.
+
+ You should remember how cruelly were Maharajah Ranjit Singh of the
+ Punjab and Sultan Tipu treated by the English govt., and now when
+ our beloved country is being released from their cruel clutches you
+ should not delay the freedom of your country and try to restore
+ happiness to the souls of your forefathers as you come from the same
+ heroic generation to which the brave soldiers of the Dardanelles and
+ Egypt belong.
+
+ You must have heard about the recent fighting in the Dardanelles
+ when Lord Hamilton was wounded and Lord Kitchener cowardly ran away
+ at night taking with him only the British soldiers from the
+ Dardanelles siege and leaving behind the Indian soldiers who on
+ seeing this murdered all their officers and joined the Turks.
+
+ Nearly everywhere we find that our Indian soldiers are leaving the
+ British. Is it not a pity that you still go on assisting them? Just
+ consider that these and we have left our homes and country and are
+ fighting only for rupees fifteen or twenty; a subaltern 20 or 25
+ years old is drawing a handsome amount as salary from Indian money
+ while our old Risaldar and Subadar majors are paid nothing like
+ him--and even a British soldier does not salute them. Is that all
+ the respect and share of wealth for the sake of which we should let
+ them enjoy our country?
+
+ For instance see how many of you Indian soldiers were killed and
+ wounded during the battle of Ctesiphon and there is nobody to look
+ after the families of your deceased and wounded brothers. Just
+ compare the pay a British soldier draws with that which you get.
+ Brethren hurry up, the British Kingdom is going to ruins now.
+ Bulgaria gave them several defeats, Ireland and the Transvaal are
+ out of their possessions of which perhaps you already know.
+
+ H.M. the Sultan's brave Turkish forces which were engaged at the
+ Bulgar frontier before are now coming over this side in lacs for the
+ purpose of setting India at liberty.
+
+ We were forced by the British to leave our beloved country for good
+ and had to live in America, but on hearing the news of our country
+ being freed from English hands we came here via Germany and found
+ our Indian brethren fighting against H.M. Sultan.
+
+ Other nations are trying to restore us freedom from the British, but
+ it appears we do not like to be freed from slavery, hence we are
+ fighting against our friends the Turks.
+
+ Brethren, what is done, that is done, and now you should murder all
+ your officers and come over to join H.M. Sultan's Army like our
+ brave Indian soldiers did in Egypt and the Dardanelles. All the
+ officers of this force and Arabs have received orders from the
+ Sultan that any Indian soldier, irrespective of any caste, a Sikh,
+ Rajput, Mahratta, Gurkha, Pathan, Shiah or Syed, who come to join
+ the Turks should be granted a handsome pay and land for cultivation
+ if they like to settle in the Sultan's territory. So you must not
+ miss the chance of murdering your officers and joining the Turks,
+ helping them to restore your freedom.
+
+ Dated _28th December, 1915_.
+
+ Printed and distributed by the Indian National Society.
+
+ Translated from originals in Urdu and Pushtu or Punjabi.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX C
+
+
+Comparison of rations issued in Kut at the middle of April, 1916, with
+full service rations.
+
+
+BRITISH
+
+ _Normal Field Service._ _In Kut._
+
+ Bread, 1-1/4 lb. 4 oz. (from April 17th).
+ Fresh meat, 1-1/4 lb. 1-1/4-1-1/2 lb. (horse and
+ mule).
+ Potatoes and vegetables, 1/2 lb. Nil. (except ság).
+ Bacon, 3 oz. Nil.
+ (or butter 1-1/2 oz. twice a week).
+ Tea, 5/8 oz. Nil.
+ Sugar, 3 oz. Nil.
+ Salt, 1/2 oz. Nil.
+ Jam, 4 oz. Nil.
+ Cheese, 3 oz. Nil.
+ Ginger, ---- 1/3 oz.
+
+
+INDIAN
+
+ _Normal Field Service._ _In Kut._
+
+ Atta (wheat meal), 1-1/2 lb. 4 oz. (barley meal).
+ Ghi, 2 oz. 1/2 oz.
+ Dal, 4 oz. Nil.
+ Meat, 4 oz. 9 oz. (horse).
+ Gur, 1 oz. Nil.
+ Potatoes, 2 oz. Nil.
+ Tea, 1/3 oz. Nil.
+ Ginger, 1/3 oz. }
+ Chillies, 1/6 oz. }
+ Turmeric, 1/6 oz. } 1/8 oz.
+ Garlic, 1/6 oz. }
+ Salt, 1/2 oz. }
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX D
+
+RATIONS AT END OF SIEGE
+
+
+All except meat and ginger dropped by aeroplane.
+
+ _British._ _Indian._
+
+ Bread, 3 oz. Indian atta, 3 oz.
+ Sugar, 1 oz. Gur, 1/2 oz.
+ Chocolate, 1/2 oz. Dal, 1 oz.
+ Meat, 1-1/2 lb. (horse or mule). Salt, 1/8 oz.
+ Ginger, 1/8 oz.
+ Meat, 9 oz. (horse).
+
+
+
+
+JOHN LANE'S "ON ACTIVE SERVICE" SERIES.
+
+Now that the Great War is definitely over it is necessary to get it
+adequately chronicled. Of necessity we must have comprehensive surveys
+of the war, formal histories in many volumes; but the real history of
+the great conflict is to be found not so much in these, as in the vital
+pieces of descriptive literature which our fighting men have struck off,
+often while the drama was being enacted before their eyes. It is with
+the object of getting together a really vivid and actual record of the
+world conflict, which will be of service not only to ourselves, but to
+our children, that the "ON ACTIVE SERVICE" Series has been formed. It
+consists of a number of volumes, uniform in format and production, which
+have been selected as being representative of particular aspects or
+phases of the war, written by soldiers, sailors and others who have
+witnessed or actually participated in what they describe. Here, in these
+personal experiences of our men, is an enduring record of the last four
+or five years; a record which, more surely than any formal histories,
+will carry forward the memory of those tragic but glorious days.
+
+
+_THE FOLLOWING VOLUMES HAVE ALREADY BEEN PUBLISHED_
+
+DOVER DURING THE DARK DAYS. By a "Dug-out" (LT. COMM. STANLEY COXON,
+R.N.V.R. Author of "And That Reminds Me.") With contributions by other
+officers of the DOVER PATROL. Crown 8vo. 7/- net.
+
+ This book lifts the veil which was so closely drawn over the
+ operations of the Navy during war-time. It gives accounts of many
+ engagements and scraps with the enemy, written by actual
+ participants, and forms a valuable contribution to the history of
+ our navy during the most momentous years of its existence.
+
+ "_The real thing._"--_Daily Express._
+
+ "_Makes good reading._"--_Times._
+
+ "_Spirited and exciting._"--_Yorkshire Observer._
+
+ "_The book has many fine pages in it._"--_Evening News._
+
+TEMPORARY CRUSADERS. By CECIL SUMMERS, author of "Temporary Heroes."
+Crown 8vo. 4/- net.
+
+ A further volume by the author of the very successful "Temporary
+ Heroes," describing his experiences in France, Palestine, Egypt and
+ Italy.
+
+ "_A cheery, chatty chronicle. The author has a keen eye for the
+ humour of circumstance and a most beguiling way._"--_Morning Post._
+
+ "_Bright and exhilarating. It is sure to be read widely._"--_Scotsman._
+
+ "_Even more hearty and sincere than the successful 'Temporary
+ Heroes.'_"--_Liverpool Courier._
+
+THE BOY WITH THE GUNS. By the late LIEUT. G. W. TAYLOR. Edited by his
+sister MRS. ROGER COOKSON. With an introduction by SIR JAMES
+CRICHTON-BROWNE. With Illustrations and Maps. Crown 8vo. 5/- net.
+
+ This is a vividly realistic account of the work done and hardships
+ endured by our Royal Field Artillery in the war, and of their
+ "hair-breadth 'scapes in the imminent deadly breach" in France and
+ Flanders, by one who went through them all and made the supreme
+ sacrifice.
+
+PUSHING WATER. By R.N.V. (LIEUT. ERIC DAWSON.) Crown 8vo. 4/- net.
+
+ "Pushing Water" reveals a phase of warfare of which the world knows
+ little or nothing. It is the story of the "Movy" of
+ submarine-hunting and mine sweeping in perilous seas, of duties
+ faithfully accomplished, without expectation of fame or reward. As a
+ sidelight on a branch of the Navy's activities it has a good deal of
+ interest, but the book would recommend itself on the score of its
+ quiet humour and abundant anecdote alone.
+
+ "_This entertaining book ... a vivid picture of existence on a
+ 'Movy.'_"--_Sunday Times._
+
+ "_An animated narrative._"--_Scotsman._
+
+ "_Described with real humour ... decidedly
+ interesting._"--_Birmingham Post._
+
+A HANDFUL OF AUSSEYS. By C. HAMPTON THORP, A.I.F., with a foreword by
+General Sir William Birdwood, K.C.B., K.C.S.I., K.C.M.G., etc., and an
+Introductory Poem by Robert Bridges, Poet Laureate. With Illustrations
+by James F. Scott. Crown 8vo. 7/- net.
+
+ "A Handful of Ausseys" is the only book from the pen of an
+ Australian soldier which deals intimately with the troopship voyage
+ between the Commonwealth and England, and the more detailed side of
+ the Soldier's life in England before he goes across the Channel.
+
+ "_Well justifies its place among war books, for it is well written,
+ graphic and amusing, and full of facts and anecdotes.... The
+ illustrations are rather telling and rather original._"--_Times._
+
+ "_Among the good war pictures of the present war, the description of
+ this draft's moving up to the firing line deserves to find a
+ pleasant place._"--_Bookman._
+
+ "_Racily describes with much good humour and amusing anecdote the
+ daily experiences of an Australian reinforcement ... these bright
+ and spirited pages._"--_Scotsman._
+
+THREE CHEVRONS. By "OREX" (MAJOR H. F. BIDDER, D.S.O.) Crown 8vo. 5/-
+net.
+
+ An absolutely authentic, cool record of what the author saw on the
+ Flanders front from Christmas, 1914, to June, 1917. It contains the
+ experiences of a clear-sighted conscientious officer who keeps as
+ close as possible to fact and maintains his detached judicial point
+ of view. A book which both the military man and public generally
+ will appreciate for its freshness and candour.
+
+ "_'Orex' has made a singularly successful contribution to war
+ literature by the direct method of honesty, modesty and simplicity.
+ His book is a pleasant surprise.... He expresses it all in an
+ individuality of great charm, the charm of literary unconsciousness
+ and quiet restraint.... In every respect a good book._"--_Daily
+ News._
+
+ "_Simply and attractively written, and quite worth its place in the
+ ON ACTIVE SERVICE Series._"--_Times._
+
+SOME SOLDIERS AND LITTLE MAMMA. By HELEN BOULNOIS. Crown 8vo. 5/-
+net.
+
+ "_A book of singular interest.... Remarkable for its sidelights, on
+ what may be called the domestic phases of the war._"--_Daily
+ Graphic._
+
+THE SILENCE OF COLONEL BRAMBLE. By ANDRE MAUROIS. Translated from the
+French. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 5/- net.
+
+ This remarkably amusing account of an English regimental mess by a
+ French officer who was attached as an interpreter, has had an
+ immense vogue in France, and its appeal to English readers will
+ without doubt be equally wide.
+
+ "_Those who do not already know the book in French, will lose
+ nothing of its charm in English form.... The humours of the mess
+ room are inimitable.... The whole thing is real, alive, sympathetic.
+ There is not a false touch in all its delicate glancing
+ wit._"--_Daily Telegraph._
+
+ "_An excellent translation.... A gay and daring translation.... I
+ laughed over its audacious humour._"--_JAMES DOUGLAS in The Star._
+
+FIELD AMBULANCE SKETCHES. By a Corporal. Crown 8vo. 4/- net.
+
+ These sketches by a stretcher-bearer are extraordinarily clear and
+ actual. "Behind a Raid" is a wonderfully vivid piece of work; the
+ reader lives every second of these thrilling hours, and the whole
+ scene is touched in masterly style. The other pages are equally
+ fine. To the civilian they bring home the actualities of War; while
+ soldiers of every class will enjoy them in their fine truthfulness.
+
+SAPPER DOROTHY LAWRENCE: The only English Woman Soldier. Late Royal
+Engineers, 51st Division, 179th Tunnelling Company, B.E.F. With
+Portraits. Crown 8vo. 5/- net.
+
+ Miss Dorothy Lawrence enjoys the distinction of having been the only
+ British woman soldier, and in this book she sets out her varied
+ experiences, first in Paris, where she did the necessary drills, and
+ finally "up the line."
+
+A KUT PRISONER. By H. C. W. BISHOP. Illustrated. Crown 8vo. 6/- net.
+
+ More exciting than any fictitious story of adventure the main part
+ of this book is occupied by the story of the author's escape, in
+ company with three other British officers, from Kastamuni in Asia
+ Minor. MR. BISHOP was captured at the fall of Kut, and his narrative
+ includes a description of the appalling long march from Kut to
+ Kastamuni, during which such a large proportion of our men succumbed
+ to their sufferings which were wilfully aggravated by their
+ captors.
+
+WITH THE CHINKS. By Lieut. DARYL KLEIN. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo.
+6/6 net.
+
+ The author of "With the Chinks" was a civilian in China who
+ volunteered as an officer for the training of Chinese coolies who
+ were brought to France to form Labour Brigades to work behind the
+ lines. The characters of his charges are sketched with considerable
+ skill, and the voyage via Canada and the Panama Canal to France is
+ picturesquely described. The book forms a unique and interesting
+ page in the voluminous History of the War.
+
+
+_THE FOLLOWING ARE IN IMMEDIATE PREPARATION:_
+
+TALES OF A TROOPER. By A. CLUTHA MACKENZIE. Crown 8vo.
+
+ These tales convey in the most living manner the experiences and
+ sensations of a typical Anzac en route to the war, then landed at
+ Gallipoli, and finally "knocked out" in the terrible battle for the
+ ridge.
+
+A PRISONER IN TURKEY. By JOHN STILL, author of "Poems in Captivity,"
+etc. Crown 8vo.
+
+ The author of this remarkable book was largely instrumental in
+ conveying to the British Government, by messages, in an ingenious
+ code of his own invention, sent at considerable personal risk, very
+ valuable information regarding the treatment of British Prisoners in
+ Turkey. In this book, which is an account of over three years'
+ imprisonment in Turkish hands, at Constantinople and at Afion Kara
+ Hissar, Mr. STILL gives a very forceful and vivid, but restrained
+ account of the trials, sufferings and dangers through which he and
+ his fellow prisoners passed during their long captivity.
+
+WARD TALES. By E. CHIVERS DAVIES. Crown 8vo.
+
+ In this capital little record of V.A.D. work in a hospital Miss
+ Davies combines very cleverly two points of view--the Nurses' and
+ Hospital Staff's, and the Tommies'. The author has humour, insight,
+ sympathy, and a very quick eye for a situation, and in the course of
+ her sketches she synthesizes the atmosphere and outlook of a big
+ Military Hospital, especially as it appears to a V.A.D. Soldiers,
+ and others, will delight in the truthful and entertaining pictures
+ of this admirable little book, as will all who have served, and are
+ serving, in hospital.
+
+BEHIND BOSCHE BARS. By E. WARBURTON. Crown 8vo.
+
+ A cleverly written description of a young English officer's
+ internment as a prisoner of war in Germany. As his experiences were
+ thoroughly typical of the later treatment by the Germans of officer
+ prisoners, his account forms a very valuable record of this aspect
+ of the war. The writer gives the Germans credit for some kind acts,
+ while laughing at them for their stiffness, pedantry and stupidity.
+ He conveys a strongly actual picture of the whole body of prisoners
+ in every camp--their ways of life, outlook, habits and feelings.
+
+WITH THE SERBS IN MACEDONIA. By DOUGLAS WALSHE. Illustrated. Crown
+8vo.
+
+ This is a very bright account of war experiences in Macedonia, by an
+ A.S.C. officer, who has the gift of making his scenes _living_
+ scenes. Mr. WALSHE'S narrative is very human, and he gives us an
+ excellent bird's eye view of the country, and the tangle of races
+ inhabiting it.
+
+FOUR MONTHS IN ITALY IN WAR-TIME. By BEATRICE THOMSON. Crown 8vo.
+
+ This book gives a remarkably clear idea of hospital life, and also
+ of Italian character and ways. It is a fine record of service, and
+ in its quiet restrained humanity it is a chronicle which deserves to
+ be widely read. The author served for several months in a war
+ hospital in France, and her sketches of her patients' characters and
+ her record of their talk and behaviour give us the real Italy.
+
+WITH THE CAVALRY IN THE WEST. By J. D. DELIUS. Illustrated. Crown 8vo.
+
+ While we have had many books describing the work of the Infantry and
+ Artillery in the war, very little has been written about the part
+ played by our Cavalrymen. The fact that their operations were
+ restricted by the conditions of modern warfare does not, however,
+ detract in the least from the interest of CAPTAIN DELIUS' book, for
+ it is a book of happy anecdote and amusing description, rather than
+ of the more repulsive side of war.
+
+FROM THE SOMME TO THE RHINE. By MAJOR A. ASHMEAD-BARTLETT. Crown 8vo.
+
+ This is a valuable narrative of the last phase of the Great War. The
+ author, who has the literary talent of his family has used his
+ opportunities as an Intelligence Officer to great advantage, and his
+ narrative is very clear, very picturesque and very human. He has
+ seized the salient details of what he is describing, and his
+ sincerity combined with his artistic gift, makes a moving, life-like
+ picture.
+
+ JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD,
+ VIGO STREET, LONDON, W.1.
+
+
+
+
+ * * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+Illustrations have been moved near the relevant section of the text.
+
+Inconsistent hyphenation and use of separate words have been retained for:
+
+ down stream/downstream
+ Eski Chehir/Eski-Chehir
+ framework/frame-work
+ goatskins/goat skins
+ half way/half-way
+ hillside/hill-side
+ machine guns/machine-guns
+ sheep tracks/sheep-tracks
+ some one/someone
+ tilework/tile-work
+ trench digging/trench-digging
+ up stream/up-stream
+ up to date/up-to-date
+ used up/used-up
+
+Inconsistencies in italicization and capitalization have been retained.
+
+The following minor typographical corrections were made:
+
+ Period added after "line" on Page 20
+ Space added before "the" on Page 54
+ "Poor" changed to "poor" on Page 131
+ Period removed after "Tip" on Page 185
+ "A pparently" changed to "Apparently" on Page 188
+ "pro cured" changed to "procured" on Page 195
+ "andfind" changed to "and find" on Page 196
+ "Bighar" changed to "Bihgar" on the illustration following Page
+ 196
+ Period added after "Mellis" and "Maj.-Gen. Mellis." centered on
+ Page 235
+ "in in" changed to "in" on Page 249
+ Period added after "Mackenzie" on Page 250
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A KUT PRISONER***
+
+
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+
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+<body>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Kut Prisoner, by H. C. W. Bishop</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: A Kut Prisoner</p>
+<p>Author: H. C. W. Bishop</p>
+<p>Release Date: October 14, 2010 [eBook #34069]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A KUT PRISONER***</p>
+<br><br><center><h4>E-text prepared by David Clarke, Linda Hamilton,<br>
+ and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br>
+ (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br>
+ from page images generously made available by<br>
+ Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries<br>
+ (<a href="http://www.archive.org/details/toronto">http://www.archive.org/details/toronto</a>)</h4></center><br><br>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
+ <tr>
+ <td valign="top">
+ Note:
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ Images of the original pages are available through
+ Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries. See
+ <a href="http://www.archive.org/details/akutprisoner00bishuoft">
+ http://www.archive.org/details/akutprisoner00bishuoft</a>
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full">
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p style="text-indent:0em;padding-bottom:1.5em;"><span style="border-bottom:3px solid;font-size:1.15em;">ON ACTIVE SERVICE SERIES</span></p>
+
+
+<p style="text-indent:0em;padding-bottom:1em;text-align:center;font-weight:bold;font-size:1.4em;">A KUT PRISONER</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:.5em;"><a name="frontis1"></a>
+<img src="images/frontis1.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="348">
+<p class="caption">KASTAMUNI</p></div>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:.25em;"><a name="frontis2"></a>
+<img src="images/frontis2.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="348">
+<p class="caption">THE CASTLE ROCK (KASTAMUNI)</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="linearound newpg">
+
+<p class="center" style="font-weight:bold;font-size:2em;padding-top:1em;margin-bottom:.2em;">A KUT PRISONER</p>
+
+<p class="center smcap" style="font-weight:bold;font-size: 1.2em;margin-top:.1em;padding-bottom:8em;">By H.&nbsp;C.&nbsp;W.&nbsp;BISHOP</p>
+
+<div style="padding-bottom:2em;font-size:.9em;white-space:nowrap;" class="center">
+LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD<br>
+NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY. MCMXX
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p style="font-size:.7em;font-weight:bold;padding-top:2em;" class="center">
+PRINTED BY THE ANCHOR PRESS LTD., TIPTREE, ESSEX, ENGLAND.</p>
+<a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii"></a>
+
+<p style="margin-left:25%;margin-right:25%;padding-top:2em;text-indent:0em;text-align:justify; text-justify:distribute-all-lines;" class="newpg">TO THE MEMORY OF ALL THOSE BRITISH
+AND INDIAN OFFICERS AND MEN OF
+THE KUT GARRISON WHO HAVE SUFFERED
+AND DIED IN CAPTIVITY THIS
+BOOK IS REVERENTLY DEDICATED</p>
+<a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix"></a>
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION</h2>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>T</span></span><span class="firstwords">he</span>
+experiences related in the following
+pages are simply the individual
+fortunes of a subaltern of the Indian
+Army Reserve of Officers who had his first
+taste of fighting at the battle of Ctesiphon,
+and was afterwards taken prisoner by the
+Turks with the rest of the Kut Garrison,
+ultimately succeeding in escaping from Asia
+Minor. It is not intended to generalize in
+any way, since an individual, unless of exalted
+rank, sees as a rule only his own small environment
+and cannot pretend to speak for
+the majority of his comrades.</p>
+
+<p>The book is published in the hope that
+it may prove of interest to the many relatives
+and friends of the Kut prisoners.</p>
+
+<p>Acknowledgments are due to Messrs.
+Blackwood, the <i>Times of India</i>, and the
+<i>Pioneer</i> for their kind permission to republish
+those chapters which originally appeared in
+these papers.</p><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%" class="newpg"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi"></a>
+<h2 style="padding-bottom:1em;"><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+
+<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="8" cellspacing="4" summary="Contents" align="center">
+<tr>
+<td valign="bottom" align="right" width="10%"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER</span></td><td colspan="2" align="right" style="width: 90%; padding-bottom: 0em;" valign="bottom"><span class="smaller">PAGE</span></td>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">I.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">CTESIPHON</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">1</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">II.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom:.5em;">KUT</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">14</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">III.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">FROM KUT TO KASTAMUNI</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">34</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">IV.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">LIFE IN KASTAMUNI</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">80</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">V.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom:.5em;">ESCAPE FROM KASTAMUNI</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">104</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">VI.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">THE FIRST NIGHT</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">115</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">VII.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom:.5em;">ON THE HILLS</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">126</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">VIII.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">SLOW PROGRESS</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">135</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">IX.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">BLUFFING THE PEASANTS</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">147</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">X.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">REACHING THE COAST</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">158</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">XI.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">RECAPTURED</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">166</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">XII.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">RESCUED</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">174</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">XIII.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">IN HIDING WITH THE TURKS</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">184</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">XIV.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">CONTINUED DELAYS</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">104</a><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii"></a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">XV.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">THREE DAYS ON THE BLACK SEA</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">208</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">XVI.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">THE CRIMEA AND HOME</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">219</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">XVII.</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">FRIENDS IN CAPTIVITY</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">230</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">&nbsp;&nbsp;APPENDIX A</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#APPENDIX_A">235</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">&nbsp;&nbsp;APPENDIX B</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#APPENDIX_B">238</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">&nbsp;&nbsp;APPENDIX C</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#APPENDIX_C">242</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="10%" align="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="left" style="width: 80%; padding-bottom: .5em;">&nbsp;&nbsp;APPENDIX D</td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#APPENDIX_D">244</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii"></a>
+<h2 style="padding-bottom:1em;"><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<table border="0" width="90%" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="2" summary="List of Illustrations" align="center">
+
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="80%"><span class="toc">KASTAMUNI</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="20%" colspan="2"><a href="#frontis1"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="80%"><span class="toc">THE CASTLE ROCK, KASTAMUNI</span></td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="left"><a href="#frontis2">"</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="80%">&nbsp;</td>
+<td align="right" width="20%" colspan="2"><span class="smaller">TO FACE PAGE</span></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">ELMEY BEY</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#elmey_bey">48</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">MAP USED ON JOURNEY TO THE BLACK SEA</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#journey">126</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">MAP SHOWING ROUTE OF ESCAPE</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#escape">180</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">BIHGAR BEY</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#bihgar_bey">196</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">BOAT IN WHICH THE PARTY CROSSED THE BLACK SEA</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#black_sea">210</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">MAP OF BLACK SEA</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#black_sea_map">214</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">ALUPKA</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#alupka">220</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">ALUPKA BATHS</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#alupka_baths">220</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">YALTA</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#yalta">224</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">THE THREE OFFICERS AND THREE OF THEIR RESCUERS</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#three">226</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="bottom">
+<td align="left" width="90%" colspan="2"><span class="toc">THE THREE OFFICERS AND THE AKHARDASH</span></td>
+<td align="right" width="10%"><a href="#three_2">228</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a>
+
+<h1 style="padding-bottom:1.5em;">A KUT PRISONER</h1>
+<a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER I</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">CTESIPHON</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>I</span></span><span class="firstwords">n</span>
+India, in the early days of the war,
+a newly gazetted subaltern of the Indian
+Army Reserve of Officers was sent for
+a month's preliminary training to one of
+the few remaining British regular battalions.
+Afterwards he was attached to an Indian
+Regiment, and, if fortunate, went on service
+with the same battalion. A great number,
+however, were sent off to join other units
+in the field. In this way I found myself
+arriving in Basra on October 2nd, 1915,
+with a draft for a regiment<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> of whom I had
+known nothing a few days before leaving
+India. However, the "Nobody's Child"
+feeling was very soon a thing of the past,
+and I was welcomed by a mess full of the
+best comrades any fellow could desire.</p>
+
+<p>The battle of Es-Sinn had just taken<a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a>
+place, and the 6th Division under General
+Townshend were then following the Turks
+up the Tigris above Kut. Our own fortune
+appeared to be to remain in Basra as part
+of the garrison; but, much to every one's
+delight, different news came a week or two
+later and on the 25th October we set off up
+stream, hoping to get right through to the
+front but with some fear that we might be
+kept at Amara.</p>
+
+<p>In those days travelling up the Tigris
+took a long time, and we spent a fortnight
+in reaching Azizie, a journey which can now
+be accomplished mostly by rail in two days.</p>
+
+<p>The regiment was accommodated on two
+of the river steamers, each having two big
+barges lashed alongside. The current is considerable
+and the heavily weighted steamer
+could only advance very slowly. In many
+places the river becomes very narrow, especially
+between Kurna and Amara, and much
+time was spent in bumping into sand-banks
+and struggling to get clear.</p>
+
+<p>We made short halts at Kurna, Amara,
+and Kut, the latter striking one as a horribly
+dusty and dirty little Arab town.
+Every night we used to tie up to the bank,
+as navigation by night was too risky with
+so little water in the river. On the last<a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>
+stretch to Azizie, we were warned to be on
+the alert for Arab snipers, and great preparations
+were made accordingly. A few
+shots were fired next morning, but nothing
+more than one Arab in the distance was seen.
+Other boats and convoys coming up had a
+much more lively time from raiding parties
+of the local tribes.</p>
+
+<p>Azizie was reached in the afternoon, and
+presented a scene of the greatest activity.
+The village itself consisted of only a few mud
+huts, but for some distance along the dusty
+bank of the river General Townshend's force
+was concentrated. Nothing could be a greater
+contrast to the deserted stretches of country
+through which we had passed than the bustle
+and life of a force about to advance.</p>
+
+<p>A few days later&mdash;on Monday, November
+15th&mdash;the whole of the 6th Division and
+attached troops were on the march for
+Bagdad, the first stage being El Kutunie,
+some seven miles only. Here three days were
+spent and the final preparations completed.
+There was a little sniping at night from the
+further bank of the river, but this was quickly
+dealt with by the <i>Firefly</i>, the first of the new
+monitors to come into commission on the
+river.</p>
+
+<p>Great excitement prevailed on the night<a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a>
+of the 18th when it was suddenly reported
+that the whole Turkish Force, which considerably
+outnumbered our own, was on the
+march to attack us and was expected to arrive
+and commence hostilities before morning.
+We spent a very industrious night, digging
+feverishly and wondering when the enemy
+would turn up.</p>
+
+<p>Morning arrived, to find many trenches
+but no sign of the Turks, and we later found
+that the previous reports had been entirely
+misleading. However, fresh orders were soon
+received, and not long after daybreak the
+whole force was off again, split into various
+columns whose mission was to encompass
+and annihilate the Turkish advance troops
+at Zeur, about ten miles further on. However,
+the enemy eluded us, as he had done
+previously, and got away just in time. After
+doing several miles across country in attack
+formation, always expecting to hear firing
+beginning in front, we found we had arrived
+in the position the Turks had just vacated.</p>
+
+<p>Next day a short march brought us to
+Lajj, a small hamlet on the river which was
+to be our jumping-off place for the forthcoming
+battle, and, as we believed, triumphal
+march on to Bagdad. All except the minimum
+of kit had been left at Azizie, whence<a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>
+it was to follow by steamer to Bagdad as
+soon as might be.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Azizie, the general had
+given all senior officers some idea of the
+problem we had to tackle, and they realized
+it would be no walk-over. The rest of us,
+fortunately, thought only of a repetition of
+the former successes, and that we should
+enjoy a cheerful Christmas in Bagdad.</p>
+
+<p>Detailed maps had been issued, not only
+of the Turks' position at Ctesiphon, but also
+of Bagdad and the methods to be adopted
+to push the enemy through and out of the
+city.</p>
+
+<p>At Lajj we were about nine miles from the
+Arch of Ctesiphon, built by Chosroes I. in
+the 6th cent. B.C. and round which battles had
+been fought from time immemorial. From
+the top of a sand-dune near general headquarters,
+the magnificent ruin was clearly
+visible standing up gaunt and alone above
+the flat plain. The Turks' position surrounded
+the Arch and stretched back on both banks
+of the river.</p>
+
+<p>We bivouacked one night at Lajj and at
+nine o'clock the following evening&mdash;Sunday,
+November 21st&mdash;the final advance began.</p>
+
+<p>Our plan was to surround and defeat the
+Turks on the left bank, where the greater<a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>
+part of their forces lay, and to drive them back
+on the Tigris or Diala River.</p>
+
+<p>The force was split into four columns,
+which were to attack from different angles,
+the "Flying" column being deputed to complete
+the victory by dashing on to Bagdad
+and seizing the Bagdad end of the Samarra
+Railway.</p>
+
+<p>At midnight we reached our station on
+some sand-hills about four to five miles due
+east of the Arch, which we could see very
+clearly as soon as it became light. It was a
+bitterly cold night and after digging in we
+lay down to get what sleep we could before
+dawn broke.</p>
+
+<p>The attack was to be begun by the
+columns further north, who had had a
+longer march and were further round the
+Turkish flank.</p>
+
+<p>There appeared to be considerable delay
+on their part, and it was an hour after the
+advertised time when our advance began.
+In the meantime a troop of Turkish cavalry
+had come out on a reconnaissance, but had
+thought better of coming up as far as our
+sand-hills and, after hesitating, retired unmolested
+by us.</p>
+
+<p>As we debouched from the high ground,
+we could see masses of Turks, apparently<a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>
+retiring in orderly formation towards their
+second line or still further, and the thought
+occurred that they were not going to wait
+even for us to attack. Actually, however,
+these were troops from the other side of the
+river being hastily brought across to strengthen
+the Turkish reserves opposite to us.</p>
+
+<p>Our particular destination was a point
+marked V.&nbsp;P. on our map, and understood
+to be the "Vital Point" of the Turkish line.
+It fell quickly to our attack, but was not
+carried at a light cost, and, still worse, was
+not so all-essential to the Turkish resistance
+as it should have been. Our advance was
+held up on the Turkish second line and,
+unfortunately, we were not powerful or
+numerous enough to break this also. The
+Turks had a fine position and their trenches
+were sighted with the greatest skill. Aided
+by the mirage effect, it was almost impossible
+to discern these trenches until right upon
+them; we, on the other hand, were out in
+the open plain, which was as flat as a billiard
+table and offered no cover of any sort. The
+Turkish front line was protected with barbed
+wire, and had they been provided with more
+machine-guns and been prepared to see things
+out a little longer, we should have fared very
+badly. As it was, we lost heavily in taking<a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>
+V.&nbsp;P. and the adjacent trench lines, and were
+too crippled to do much more.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon the Turks counterattacked;
+but our guns were too much for
+them, and they gained nothing.</p>
+
+<p>Evening found a confused force bivouacked
+round V.&nbsp;P. There were dreadful gaps in all
+ranks. About midnight I found my way
+back to my own battalion, to discover the
+colonel and M.&nbsp;O., the only two officers still
+carrying on. One other subaltern besides
+myself had been posted away from the regiment
+during the day, but, of the rest, only
+two were left out of ten who had gone into
+action with the battalion that morning. Other
+regiments were in much the same state, and
+it was evident that we had suffered terribly
+and had not completely smashed the enemy.
+Later on we heard that our casualties had
+reached a total of nearly 5,000, while the
+Turks were said to have lost twice this
+figure.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning we took up our position
+along the Turks' old front line, and no more
+fighting took place until the afternoon, when
+the Turks came back once more. Attacks
+followed during the night and prospects
+were considered anything but rosy for us by
+those in authority. However, the Turks<a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>
+had had enough, and by next morning were
+again out of range.</p>
+
+<p>It was imperative for us now to get closer
+to the river for water, and accordingly the
+remnant of the force concentrated in the
+angle of the "High Wall," an ancient relic
+of the old wall of Ctesiphon, now a high bank,
+forming a right angle, each arm being about
+a quarter of a mile long. During the day
+the wounded were evacuated, being taken
+back to Lajj on A.&nbsp;T. carts. It was a pitiable
+sight seeing these poor fellows go. These
+were the days before the Mesopotamian
+Commission&mdash;springless carts were all that
+were available and a number of wounded
+must have been literally bumped to death over
+those eight rough miles back to Lajj. The
+memory of those jolting carts with their
+grimy battered loads of tortured humanity
+is one not soon to be forgotten.</p>
+
+<p>The night passed in peace, but the following
+afternoon the Turks were seen advancing
+in several columns, and we were given orders
+to pack up at once. Soon after dark we were
+ready, but it seemed an age until the head of
+the column got clear away and our own
+brigade, who were in rear, could move.
+Meanwhile the Turks were expected to arrive
+on the scene at any minute, and everything<a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>
+appeared gloomy in the extreme. Ammunition
+which could not be removed had been
+hastily buried. Large fires were lit to help
+our departure and endeavour to deceive the
+enemy. Cheerful prospects of rearguard
+actions all night over unknown country
+seemed all that was in store for us. However,
+fortune was with us again; the Turks
+hesitated once more and we were not attacked
+at all during the night. After a weary march
+through thick dust and sand, we reached
+Lajj in the early hours of the morning, and
+were greeted by a heavy downpour, which,
+fortunately, stopped just before we were
+quite soaked through.</p>
+
+<p>Digging was again the order as soon as it
+was light, and arrangements were made to
+give the Turks a very hot reception if they
+intended to come on at once.</p>
+
+<p>The following day digging continued, but
+in the afternoon we were again told to get
+under way, as the Turks apparently were
+close upon us.</p>
+
+<p>A long all-night march, only varied by
+Arab sniping, brought us back to Azizie
+the following forenoon. Here digging began
+once more, and it was not at first known
+if we should remain here and see it out
+or go back further right down to Kut,<a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a>
+some 58 miles. The latter course was
+decided on next day and, having collected
+what little of our old kit we could still
+find, we set off once again southwards, and
+bivouacked by the river near Umm El
+Tubul, eleven miles further on.</p>
+
+<p>At eight in the evening, we were just congratulating
+ourselves on having at last a
+snug spot for a night's rest, when firing
+began and our pickets were soon driven in.
+However, the enemy did not make the expected
+attack during the night&mdash;which we spent
+in a nullah awaiting him.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as it was light, we could see a
+large Turkish camp, not much more than a
+mile distant. The first orders were that
+we should go out and attack; so we lined
+up for this purpose. Just as we were ready,
+fresh orders arrived, and we retired to the
+nullah while our guns opened with rapid
+fire on the Turkish camp. Meanwhile, there
+was great bustle in our rear, where the
+transport was being hurriedly got away for
+a further march towards Kut.</p>
+
+<p>We were told later on that the Turks thought
+they had only come up against a weak rearguard
+and were correspondingly dismayed
+by our gun-fire. They were said to have
+had 2,000 casualties on this day. However,<a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a>
+they pushed on and we had to retire.
+Previous to this, Turkish shells had been
+coming over, but not doing very much
+damage.</p>
+
+<p>The old gun-boat, the <i>Comet</i>, and also the
+<i>Firefly</i>, were both put out of action while
+waiting to cover our retreat, and had to be
+abandoned to the enemy.</p>
+
+<p>By midday we had shaken off the advancing
+Turks, having done many miles across
+country which seemed to grow camel thorn
+in every direction. This shrub is most unpleasant
+to march through in shorts, and
+many were the torn knees in consequence.</p>
+
+<p>A few hours on the ground late that night
+gave us a little rest; but it was too cold
+to sleep, and we were soon sitting up round
+fires of brushwood which the men had
+lighted. Many of us had had no food since
+daybreak, and had to fall back on our
+emergency rations where these were still in
+existence.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning we were off once more, and
+after another long, wearisome day reached
+a camp only a very few miles from Kut
+itself, having done over 40 miles in the
+last 36 hours.</p>
+
+<p>Kut was entered the following morning,
+December 3rd, but it was not decided till<a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a>
+some hours later what position we should
+take up.</p>
+
+<p>During the next two days we could walk
+about above ground without molestation,
+but snipers arrived all too soon, and by
+Monday, December 6th, Kut was entirely
+surrounded and the siege had begun.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="fnlabel">[1]</a> The 66th Punjabis.</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">KUT</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>I</span></span><span class="firstwords">f</span>
+the Turks had hurried up, they would
+have come upon us without properly
+dug trenches and we should have been
+taken at a great disadvantage. As it was, however,
+by the time they did arrive, we were dug
+in and had a good front line trench, although
+most of the support and communication
+trenches still had to be dug. After the first
+two or three days, all trench work had to be
+done at night, as conditions by daylight were
+not healthy.</p>
+
+<p>Life was not particularly pleasant during
+any part of the siege, and for the first few
+days we who were outside Kut had no dug-outs,
+all energy being spent on getting the
+front line firing trench ready. This would
+have been no hardship but for the fact that
+we had arrived back in Kut with a biting
+north wind, causing several degrees of frost
+at night, and an ice-covered bucket for one's
+ablutions in the morning.<a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a></p>
+
+<p>Throughout the siege, the Tigris formed
+our only water supply, this being carried in
+at night in kerosine tins by the regimental
+bheesties. Drinking water was purified with
+alum, which got rid of most of the sediment.
+Tigris is a poor drink at any time and seems
+particularly nasty when spoiling good whisky.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday, December 6th, the cavalry
+brigade left at daybreak and were the last
+people to get away from Kut. Many wounded
+and sick had been sent down stream during
+the day or two previously, the lighter cases
+being left in the hospital at Kut to recover
+and rejoin.</p>
+
+<p>In those early days, no one thought of a
+siege lasting more than a month, the general
+being reputed to be counting on relief by the
+New Year.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, the Turks had been very busy:
+not only had they been digging at a furious
+pace opposite to us and sapping up closer
+and closer, but they had also sent considerable
+forces further on down-stream, to near
+Shaik Saad, to oppose the Relieving Force
+which was there concentrating.</p>
+
+<p>The night after the cavalry brigade had
+gone out, the boat bridge over which they
+had passed to the right bank was demolished
+under the noses of the enemy.<a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a></p>
+
+<p>This gallant feat was performed by Lieut.
+Matthews, R.E., and Lieut. Sweet, who
+volunteered for the job. Both men, we
+hoped, would receive the V.C. By the
+greatest good fortune, the Turks were entirely
+surprised, and the bridge was blown up
+before they realized what was happening or
+could offer any resistance. Both officers
+received the D.S.O.</p>
+
+<p>The story of the siege has been told in
+detail by others, and it is not intended here
+to attempt it. One saw only one's own small
+corner, and never knew what to believe of
+all the rumours and scandal in which a
+besieged town seems to be particularly
+prolific.</p>
+
+<p>After the first fortnight, a regular routine
+was started. The 16th Brigade took alternate
+turns with the 30th along the main trench
+line, while the 17th garrisoned the Fort,
+and the 18th looked after the town itself and
+Woolpress village.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile the medical people had been
+busy moving from their hospital tents to the
+covered-in bazaar, which was now converted
+into wards.</p>
+
+<p>For the first few days, the men were given
+extra rations to recuperate them after the
+wearying retreat and for the strenuous trench-<a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>digging
+in progress. It was not until January
+10th that we were cut down to two-thirds
+full rations.</p>
+
+<p>The first Turkish shells arrived on December
+5th, but did little harm. Throughout the
+siege, we had much cause to be thankful for
+the very large proportion of "duds" amongst
+all classes of Turkish shell. Fortunately,
+also, they had no high explosives, or Kut
+would have been a heap of ruins in no time.</p>
+
+<p>The mud of Mesopotamia deserves mention
+in this connection. It is as disagreeable as
+but rather more glutinous than most other
+brands of the same substance, and when
+baked dry by the sun is singularly impenetrable
+to rifle bullets. All the rules found in
+military pocket-books were quite upset by
+it, some eight inches of the best variety
+being quite enough to stop any bullet. For
+the same reason, trench digging in some places
+was very slow and tedious work, as the
+ground at that time was dry and hard,
+seeming more like cast iron than anything
+else.</p>
+
+<p>During the early part of the siege, regiments
+in the 16th and 30th Brigades, on being
+relieved in the front line, returned to a
+bivouac in Kut and did some hours' digging
+on the way, the operation being carried out<a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>
+at night. The following night was as a rule
+allowed us in peace, but for the next three or
+six nights, until again relieved, one was
+generally out digging or in "support" to
+some part of the line, so that "being relieved"
+did not mean much rest for anybody.
+The bivouac had a further disadvantage
+in that we had as many casualties here as in
+the front line. Dropping bullets would come
+in at odd moments from all directions, and
+it was impossible to keep clear of them.
+Some unfortunate was laid out nearly every
+day in this way.</p>
+
+<p>The Turks never once tried to shell our
+front line, but spent all their attentions on
+the town and the Fort. A tremendous
+"hate" preceded their attack on the latter
+on Christmas Eve. They succeeded in blowing
+a breach in the mud wall of the Fort in
+the north-east bastion, and afterwards assaulted
+with great dash. Fighting was extremely
+fierce and the Turks lost very heavily
+from our machine-guns. There was much
+hand bombing, this being the only occasion
+during the siege when fighting at close
+quarters took place.</p>
+
+<p>After gaining a footing through the breach
+into our trenches, the Turks were dislodged,
+but came on again later, and at midnight,<a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>
+December 24th, were still in possession of
+the north-east bastion. However, they
+thought better of it, and by the morning of
+December 25th had all disappeared again.
+As a result of this fighting, we had about
+400 casualties, while the Turks were said to
+have lost 2,000. Be that as it may, they
+never made another attack on our lines.</p>
+
+<p>Khalil Pasha, the Turkish commander,
+was said afterwards to have told one of the
+British generals that he was just preparing
+another tremendous attack at the end of
+January, meaning to smash his way into Kut
+at any cost, when the floods intervened, and
+drove him back over half a mile, while we
+had also to return to the "middle" line&mdash;our
+second line trench some 300 yards behind
+the first. He stated that he was prepared
+to lose 10,000 in the attempt.</p>
+
+<p>Christmas Day passed peacefully, much
+to our satisfaction, and from now onwards
+there was great speculation as to the day of
+relief. We knew that General Aylmer's force
+was to start during the first days of January,
+and it was predicted that by January 9th or
+10th the siege would be over.</p>
+
+<p>By the first week in January, all fresh
+meat was finished, but for a time we had
+"bully."<a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a></p>
+
+<p>The Relieving Force suffered its first serious
+check at Shaik Saad and never arrived, as
+we had hoped. There was nothing to be
+done but to carry on and wait till next time.
+The weather now was cold and wet and the
+trenches often knee deep in mud and water.
+Kut itself was in a filthy state, the streets
+being a sea of mud after every downpour.
+The Tigris was steadily rising throughout
+January and by the 20th was near the top
+of the bund running along the bank. Heavy
+rain on this day and the next, together with
+the rise in the river, was responsible for
+flooding out the Turks' front <a name="tn_png_34"></a><!--TN: Period added after "line"-->line. They
+managed, however, to turn the water over
+towards us, with the result that we, also,
+were drowned out of the corresponding part
+of our line, the effect of this being that there
+was now a good distance between the new
+front lines. For two days we could walk
+about in the open, and were much interested
+in seeing the old Turkish trenches, and taking
+all possible firewood in the shape of old
+ammunition boxes from their loopholes. We
+found that one of their saps was only forty
+yards from our trench, and many were the
+bombs they had thrown which just fell
+short.</p>
+
+<p>The most interesting relics were numbers<a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>
+of pamphlets tied to sticks and bits of earth
+and thrown towards our line. These were
+effusions printed in various languages by the
+Indian National Society, Chicago,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and contained
+much startling information. The
+Sepoys were informed that no British were now
+left in several N.W. Frontier districts, and
+were recommended, as brave soldiers, to
+murder their British officers and join the
+Turks. The Sultan was represented as being
+ready to give land to every one who would
+respond to this invitation. As regards Gallipoli,
+it was stated that Sir Ian Hamilton
+had been wounded and that Lord Kitchener
+had run away in the night, taking the British
+troops with him and leaving the Indians,
+who thereupon murdered their officers and
+joined the Turks.</p>
+
+
+<p>Very few, if any, of these leaflets reached
+the Sepoys, and, as far as we could see, left
+them unmoved.</p>
+
+<p>After two days' freedom above ground, a
+reconnaissance was sent out to locate the
+Turkish outposts. This had the immediate
+effect of starting great activity in the Turkish
+pickets some 1,200 yards from our line, and
+from that day onwards snipers were always<a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>
+busy. Even so, life was very much pleasanter
+than when the enemy was within 100 yards.</p>
+
+<p>By January 13th we were down to half
+rations, and by January 23rd were still
+further reduced. On the 26th, the general
+issued a long <i>communiqu&eacute;</i>, telling us of how
+the Relieving Force had been unsuccessful
+so far, having had heavy losses and very bad
+weather to contend against. He announced
+that there were 84 days' more ample rations
+without counting the 3,000 animals.</p>
+
+<p>Actually the siege went on for another
+94 days, but the rations were scarcely
+ample, even including the horse meat.
+However, at the time, it seemed that
+there was nothing to worry about, especially
+as the general said he was confident of being
+relieved during the first half of February.</p>
+
+<p>With the beginning of February, we started
+eating horse, mule and camel. There were
+very few camels, but they were said to be
+quite good eating. For the rest, mule is
+very much to be preferred to horse. There
+were also the heavy battery bullocks, but
+these were not numerous, and were very thin
+already.</p>
+
+<p>All the eggs and milk obtainable from Arabs
+in the town were supposed to go to the hospitals,
+but it was always said they did not<a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>
+receive nearly as much as they should have
+done.</p>
+
+<p>During January and February, one could
+buy several things from Arabs in the bazaar,
+i.e., tea, dried beans, atta and "kabobs"
+or small hot chapatties, cooked in grease.
+The tea must all originally have come from
+the S.&nbsp;&amp;&nbsp;T. All the Arabs in Kut wore
+Army socks very early in the siege. In fact,
+it would be harder to find a race of more
+expert thieves anywhere on the globe.</p>
+
+<p>Towards the middle of February, the
+Turks began sending over an aeroplane to
+bomb us. The pilot was a German, and knew
+his business too well. After his first trip,
+machine guns were rigged up to welcome
+him the next time he came and the sappers
+mounted a 13-pounder to fire as an anti-aircraft
+gun.</p>
+
+<p>Considering the difficulties involved and
+the absence of all special sighting arrangements
+this gun made some very fair shooting.
+But the only effect of all these efforts was
+to make Fritz, the pilot, fly higher and
+approach the town from a different direction.
+The first time he came very little damage
+was done; then one day a bomb demolished
+an Arab house, killing a number of women
+and children, and a second fell on the British<a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>
+hospital, where no less than 32 sick
+and wounded men were killed outright or
+horribly injured. The padre&mdash;the Rev. H.
+Spooner&mdash;told me afterwards that no sight
+he had witnessed at Ctesiphon could be
+compared to that hospital ward. Presumably
+Fritz was aiming at the ordnance yard
+next door or some of the guns on the river
+bank only a little further on. Had there
+been more room and good buildings in Kut,
+it would no doubt have been possible to put
+the hospital in a safer spot, but, as it was,
+no other building was available. Fritz always
+succeeded in eluding our aeroplanes from the
+Relieving Force. He had so little distance
+to go home, whereas they had to come up
+20 miles or more.</p>
+
+<p>Two main observation posts were maintained,
+one above general headquarters in the
+town, and the other in the Fort. There was
+great rivalry between the two, and on one
+occasion, a large flock of sheep was definitely
+reported in the town as a considerable force
+of the enemy moving to the rear. The Fort
+maintained they were sheep and neither would
+give in.</p>
+
+<p>We could see every day long strings of
+camels on the horizon, carrying rations for
+the Turks from their base at Shamr&aacute;n above<a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>
+Kut down to their forces at Sanaiyat and
+Magassis.</p>
+
+<p>The usual book of words about camels
+informs the reader that they are liable
+to slip and split themselves up if allowed
+to travel over wet or slippery ground. In
+Mesopotamia, however, the camel seems not
+to worry at all when going over land submerged
+by floods, and carrying on generally under all
+conditions. He is a much wilder specimen
+than the usual Indian camel, and our experience
+before Ctesiphon was that he would
+only lie down if one of his forelegs was folded
+and bound up, and he was then hit on the
+head with a thick stick.</p>
+
+<p>A feature of Kut which will not be forgotten
+was the little chapel which our padre rigged
+up in one of the few remaining upper rooms
+of the battered Serai. This building was in an
+exposed position on the river bank and suffered
+more than any other from the Turkish
+shells. The padre himself was indefatigable,
+doing everything he possibly could in the
+hospitals in addition to his other duties.</p>
+
+<p>Almost every day one or more of our
+aeroplanes came over Kut, and some things
+were dropped, but how we wished they would
+drop us some letters. We knew there must
+be a great accumulation of mails at Amara<a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>
+and it seemed so easy to arrange it. As it
+was, some bags of letters were dropped for
+the staff and even the S.&nbsp;&amp;&nbsp;T. but, as usual,
+the regimental officers came off worst. We
+wanted news from home more than anything
+else, and, as it turned out, most of us never
+heard a word from our people till we had
+reached Anatolia the following July after an
+interval of eight months.</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately, we could get messages sent
+out by the wireless, and once a month a
+telegram was despatched to the depots in
+India, saying that all were well, or something
+equally brief but satisfactory to our friends
+at home.</p>
+
+<p>Another great blessing afforded by the
+wireless was the publication of a short summary
+of Reuter's telegrams, which gave us
+something else to talk of other than the everlasting
+questions of food and the date of
+relief. In particular, the taking of Erzerum
+by the Russians cheered us up, and made us
+hope that the Russian force approaching
+Bagdad from Persia would be equally successful.</p>
+
+<p>In fact, at one time the betting was said
+to be in favour of the Russian general, Baratoff,
+relieving us from the north, before
+our friends down-stream.<a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a></p>
+
+<p>With the arrival of March, every one was
+full of excitement over the coming great
+effort of the relieving force, which was
+prophesied to take place on the 4th, but
+was actually the 8th.</p>
+
+<p>Many schemes were prepared by which we
+were to co-operate, so that after the Turks
+had been started off rearwards by General
+Aylmer, we might hasten their departure.
+In most of these plans one brigade would
+have to play the leading r&ocirc;le, and probably
+come in for a pretty hot time unless the Turks
+had become quite demoralised; much speculation
+arose, therefore, as to which brigade
+would be given this post of honour.</p>
+
+<p>March 8th came and went and we realized
+that another gallant attempt had failed.
+The bombardment could be clearly heard,
+and at night it was easy to see the shells
+bursting. During the attack on the Dujailah
+Redoubt our friends were only seven to eight
+miles from us, and we could hear their rifle
+and machine gun-fire.</p>
+
+<p>This failure was a great disappointment
+and we realized what it must have cost in
+casualties. There was only one thing for us
+to do, namely, carry on; so the rations were
+reduced again and life went on in its, by
+this time, mechanical round. All were still<a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a>
+confident of being relieved, and when it became
+known that General Gorringe had taken over
+command down stream we felt sure something
+decisive would happen and that he
+would get through, if anyone could.</p>
+
+<p>After every unsuccessful attempt, a Turkish
+envoy promptly arrived with a white flag
+and requested us politely to surrender. He
+was as courteously and consistently refused.</p>
+
+<p>Rations were now down to 10 oz. of bread,
+this being half atta and half barley. The
+dates were finished and the small stocks of
+mess stores which had been carefully eked out
+were nearly finished. Still we had jam and
+tea and the mule wasn't at all bad. Some
+saccharine dropped by aeroplane gave us
+something sweet, and was a great blessing.</p>
+
+<p>The efforts to get the Indians to eat meat
+at the end of February had failed. They
+declared that every village pundit would be
+against them on their return to India and that,
+in consequence, no one would give them their
+daughters to marry.</p>
+
+<p>Everything possible to help religious
+scruples was done, and special permission
+obtained from the Im&aacute;m at Delhi and other
+religious authorities; but it was no use, and
+not until the second week in April, when they
+were literally starving, did the Indian troops<a name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>
+begin eating horse. No doubt, if they had
+done so earlier, we could have held out for
+some few days longer, but it is doubtful
+whether this would have sufficed for our
+relief.</p>
+
+<p>After March 8th, all horses not wanted for
+food were shot to save their keep, and many a
+good animal was sacrificed in this way.</p>
+
+<p>By the 19th, the bread ration was only
+&frac12; lb., while the Indians were getting 10 oz.
+meal. The small quantity of food began now
+to tell on the strength of all ranks, and cases
+of bad enteritis&mdash;so-called&mdash;were common,
+these resulting in many deaths during the
+last days of the siege.</p>
+
+<p>It is really wonderful what an amount of
+satisfaction can be derived, under such conditions,
+from simply imagining a first-class
+meal, and I remember one day, in my dug-out,
+having a great time going through a long
+menu and choosing everything I should like
+best.</p>
+
+<p>When the grass began to grow towards
+the end of March, we gathered what the
+Sepoys called s&aacute;g or anything we could make
+a sort of spinach with. It was like eating
+wet hay, but, undoubtedly, kept scurvy
+down, and if well soaked in vinegar was not
+so bad.<a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a></p>
+
+<p>In Woolpress they managed to get a little
+fish from the river, fishing by night.</p>
+
+<p>Our activities after March 8th were directed
+to keeping out the floods. Two big bunds
+were made, one inside the other, round Kut.
+The Arabs in the town were forced to work
+on the inner one and thus saved the troops,
+who were weak enough as it was already
+with making the outer bund.</p>
+
+<p>By the end of March we had a splendid
+bund across the middle line capable of keeping
+out nearly three feet of water; this being
+4 ft. 6 in. high and about 20 ft. thick at the
+base, all the soil having to be excavated from
+pits in front. The sappers had told us that
+our mess dug-out was just about the lowest
+spot round Kut and would be the first place
+to be flooded; however, when the floods
+really came, we found we were two feet higher
+up than the regiment a little further along
+the line. It was hard work making these
+bunds, and all the men not otherwise on duty
+were out every night. The bund also had
+to form the firing parapet, and with barbed
+wire entanglements in the "borrow" pits
+in front and again beyond we were well protected
+from any attack, not to mention the
+floods which would have made an advance
+by the enemy almost impossible.<a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a></p>
+
+<p>All through April the water slowly percolated
+up and the dug-outs and trenches
+had to be continually raised, until by the end
+of the month we were nearly up to ground
+level. The river rose to its highest level
+during April, but fortunately news was received,
+by wireless, from a British officer with
+the Russians at Lake Urmia, of the various
+floods, so that we were more or less prepared.
+Actually we had never much more than
+2 ft. 6 in. outside our bund, which held well.
+Had we been driven back inside the inner
+bund, the whole force would have been cooped
+up in a very small area and any shelling would
+have been bound to take a large toll.</p>
+
+<p>For the last ten days there was no tobacco
+left. People were smoking used-up tea-leaves,
+orange leaves, liquorice, and even grass.
+Whatever smoking tea-leaves may be like
+for the smoker, it is exceedingly unpleasant
+for everybody else, especially in a dug-out.</p>
+
+<p>Throughout the April fighting we followed
+each <i>communiqu&eacute;</i> from General Gorringe with
+the greatest anxiety, watching his shells
+bursting over the Turkish lines by night and
+always hoping on until after the <i>Julnar</i> had
+failed to get through.</p>
+
+<p>The men were not told anything about this
+attempt, but the 30th Brigade made ready<a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>
+to cover the unloading, in the event of the
+gallant ship winning through. She was to
+be beached by the Fort the same night and
+unloaded before the Turks could bring their
+guns to bear on her next morning. I remember
+listening to the firing as she slowly made
+her way up-stream; star-shells and flares
+went up and lit up the scene and she met with
+a terrible reception.</p>
+
+<p>Then, after a time, all firing ceased and we
+realized that this splendid attempt had failed.
+According to one member of the crew, all
+went well until they reached Magassis, where
+they struck a cable which gave way, but a
+second one immediately afterwards stopped
+them. Commander Firman, the naval officer
+in charge, thought this was a sand-bank and
+left his protection on the bridge to shout to
+them to take a sounding. He was killed on
+the spot. Cowley, the well-known skipper of
+the ship, then took charge but they could not
+get past the obstruction, and he himself was
+soon very severely wounded by a shell, from
+which he died when taken ashore.</p>
+
+<p>Eventually this magnificent attempt had
+to be given up. It was a most heroic effort
+and, had it been possible to steam faster,
+would probably have been successful. As it
+was, the ship was very heavily laden with a<a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>
+month's supplies for the garrison on board
+and could only do five or six knots against
+the very strong current. Even so, we still
+fondly hoped that General Gorringe might
+achieve the impossible at the last minute;
+but it was not to be.</p>
+
+<p>The last few days we lived on the emergency
+and reserve rations which each regiment had
+in its keeping, and the food dropped by
+aeroplanes from the Relieving Force. These
+brought us white flour, some sugar and a little
+chocolate. The bread ration, however, was
+only 4 oz. or just one good slice a day each.</p>
+
+<p>We were all very weak and there was a
+great deal of sickness. Enteritis, which seemed
+not very different from cholera, was prevalent
+and affected nearly everybody to some extent.
+Not infrequently a Tommy going into Kut
+from the front line would suddenly collapse,
+often not to recover. I remember feeling
+rather disappointed that I did not look thinner,
+and one felt one ought to be a dreadful
+scarecrow really to have done the siege justice.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2" class="fnlabel">[2]</a> See <a href="#APPENDIX_B">Appendix B</a>.</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">FROM KUT TO KASTAMUNI</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>O</span></span><span class="firstwords">n</span>
+April 29th, Kut surrendered, and it
+was with sad feelings that we watched
+two Turkish battalions marching
+in at midday. The bitter thought that they
+should have worsted us in the end, together
+with the knowledge of the useless sacrifice
+of life by our friends down-stream, was present
+to all; but there was also a great feeling of
+relief that the siege was now over, and we
+had not realized until this moment how
+severe the strain had been.</p>
+
+<p>We believed the Turks would treat all
+ranks well, as up to that moment they had
+always fought and behaved like gentlemen.
+Khalil Pasha, the Turkish general, had said
+we should be treated as his "honoured
+guests," and, since at that time we had not
+had much experience of Turkish promises,
+we were inclined to think all would be
+well, although we knew the Turks themselves
+were short of supplies and had<a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>
+great difficulty in feeding their troops down-stream.</p>
+
+<p>Orders came round telling us to destroy
+everything that could be of use to the enemy,
+only a few rifles being kept in case of trouble
+with Arabs in the town before the Turks
+arrived. Field-glasses, revolvers, maps, and
+diaries all had to be destroyed and saddlery
+burnt. It seemed a crime to be sacrificing
+so much that was valuable, but this was
+better than helping the enemy in any way.
+The last works of destruction had only just
+been completed when the Turkish troops
+arrived, and great was their disgust at finding
+all the guns destroyed, and nothing worth
+taking but a few rifles.</p>
+
+<p>Some of us had kept our swords, thinking
+that they would be returned to us in traditional
+style, only to find them collected by
+the first Turkish subaltern or N.C.O. who set
+eyes on them. Those who were wiser had
+thrown theirs in the river or buried them,
+and we all wished we had done the same.
+Later on, we heard that the officers' swords
+from Kut had been displayed as an interesting
+exhibit in some museum at Constantinople.</p>
+
+<p>The departure from Kut began that evening,
+one steamer taking a full load up to
+Shamr&aacute;n, the Turkish base camp, some eight<a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>
+miles up-stream. We had still to depend on
+the remnants of our own rations for that day
+and the next, but fortunately they just
+sufficed.</p>
+
+<p>Next day, as we moved up towards the old
+Serai, near which the steamers were moored,
+we had to pass a palm grove which had been
+occupied by some Turkish soldiers. These
+men were systematically looting any kit
+which was being carried past, and to which
+they had taken a fancy. A good deal was
+lost in this way. The Turkish officers seemed
+powerless to stop it, the culprits merely walking
+away until the officer had departed.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer made two or three more trips
+that day, but it was announced at noon that
+all those left must march, their kit alone
+going on the steamer. How they managed
+that march in a starving condition they only
+know who did it, but when the steamer
+reached Shamr&aacute;n on its last trip at midnight
+they had all come in and been regaled with
+Turkish ration biscuits. An amusing incident
+occurred during this march. An Indian
+sweeper&mdash;the humblest of all regimental followers&mdash;was
+trudging along behind his regiment
+carrying some of the articles of his
+trade, when they passed some Turkish gun-pits
+where there were several German officers<a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>
+standing. On seeing them the sweeper made
+obeisance with the deepest of salaams; whereupon
+the Germans promptly stood to attention,
+clicked their heels and saluted.</p>
+
+<p>During the following days, we made ourselves
+as comfortable as possible at Shamr&aacute;n,
+and, fortunately, got other food in addition
+to the Turkish biscuits. These biscuits need
+only be once seen or eaten never to be forgotten.
+They are of a dark-brown colour,
+unless mouldy, about six inches in diameter
+and an inch thick in the centre, and made
+from a very coarse meal, which must contain
+anything except wheat. They are even harder
+than the hardest of our own army biscuits.</p>
+
+<p>The Turks had allowed us to bring with us
+what tents we had in Kut, and, although we
+had to leave them behind at Shamr&aacute;n, they
+were of the greatest comfort to us during
+the week which we spent there.</p>
+
+<p>A launch arrived from the relieving force,
+bringing with it barges laden with food,
+including a number of mess stores and gifts.
+These we eventually got possession of, although
+the Turks would not allow them to be
+landed at our camp, but took them up-stream
+some distance, where we expected they would
+take a systematic toll of everything. Turkish
+soldiers and Arabs brought in dates, a few<a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>
+oranges, and a syrup made from dates, which
+they sold at excessive prices.</p>
+
+<p>Bathing was allowed in the river, and some
+enthusiasts who still had fishing tackle spent
+a considerable time on the bank, but without
+much success.</p>
+
+<p>One day, General Townshend passed up-stream
+in a launch accompanied by two or
+three of his staff <i>en route</i> to Bagdad. All
+ranks rushed to the bank to give him a parting
+cheer, which one felt meant that all knew
+he had done his best for us throughout.</p>
+
+<p>With the end of the siege one had expected
+all the worst features of the last few weeks
+to disappear, but the heavy mortality from
+enteritis continued at Shamr&aacute;n. It was
+especially heavy amongst the British ranks,
+in many cases being aggravated by a too
+suddenly increased diet, of which the Turkish
+biscuits formed a large part.</p>
+
+<p>A few days after our arrival, it was announced
+that the men would all have to march
+up, while officers would be taken up in batches
+by the steamers. The first party to leave
+contained the generals and staff, and most of
+the officers from British units. The following
+day the men were to march. Our doctors
+insisted on a very thorough examination, as
+a large proportion of the men were unable to<a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>
+march. The Turks would not, however,
+accept the British doctors' decisions, and
+reduced the unfit to a much smaller number.</p>
+
+<p>The result was that large numbers fell out
+after the first day, and had to be taken on
+board the <i>Julnar</i>, which was bringing up a
+number of men from the Kut hospitals whom
+the Turks considered not ill enough to be
+exchanged. We were all convinced that
+had it not been for German counsels at
+Constantinople some arrangement for our
+return on <i>parole</i> to India might have been
+made.</p>
+
+<p>The men were told to take one blanket
+or greatcoat each, as well as their haversacks
+and water-bottles. They had no transport
+whatever, and our hearts misgave us as we
+watched them go. The column wound slowly
+out of the camp with many checks, and it
+was over an hour before they were clear;
+all seemed to be carrying big loads, and many
+things must have been thrown away or sold
+before they reached Bagdad. The Turks
+were only too anxious to buy, when they
+could not steal any clothing, boots, or equipment,
+their own clothing and equipment
+being at a very low ebb after months of
+service in Mesopotamia, to say nothing of
+the long march down from Asia Minor.<a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>
+Many had no boots, and were just wearing
+sandals of goat-skin, such as they are accustomed
+to use in the country districts of
+Anatolia.</p>
+
+<p>When the men had departed, the camp
+seemed very forlorn; about 150 British and
+Indian officers were left, while the hospital
+tents contained many sick of all ranks.</p>
+
+<p>Two days later, on May 10th, the second
+party of officers left on the steamer <i>Khalifa</i>,
+which had on board a few German gunners
+returning to Bagdad and a good number of
+Turkish officers. The journey took three
+days; on the second day we passed the
+<i>Julnar</i>. She was covered with bullet-marks,
+showing through what a severe fire she had
+forced her way. Now she was loaded with
+sick from Kut. We waved to those on board,
+but were not near enough to speak to them.</p>
+
+<p>Our steamer used to tie up to the bank
+for a short while twice a day, in the morning
+and evening, enabling us to get a hurried
+bathe and a little change from the cramped
+space on the deck, where we spent the rest
+of the time.</p>
+
+<p>The third day we passed the battlefield of
+Ctesiphon, full of memories of the victory
+which had proved so disastrous six months
+before. We halted for the night not far<a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>
+from the Arch, and were greeted by the local
+Arabs, who danced and fired off ancient rifles
+and pistols in the air in derision at our captivity.
+The women also contributed their
+share by making a peculiar kind of trilling
+sound. How we hoped they might soon
+be singing in a very different fashion when
+our troops should advance again and take
+Bagdad.</p>
+
+<p>We reached Bagdad the next morning.
+As we slowly paddled up the river, we could
+see the Red Crescent flag floating from almost
+every good house on the river sides; hospitals
+seemed to be everywhere, and we realized
+what awful casualties the Relieving Force
+had inflicted on the Turks.</p>
+
+<p>For some miles before Bagdad is reached,
+the river is fringed with palm groves, gardens,
+and cultivated land. When we left Kut
+the river was within a few feet of the highest
+ground, but here the banks were very much
+higher.</p>
+
+<p>We were landed at the old British Residency,
+and, after a little delay, were formed up
+in order of seniority and marched off along
+what appeared to be the main road. It was
+evidently arranged as a triumphal procession
+to impress the inhabitants. At length, after
+a march of two miles, passing through the<a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a>
+covered-in bazaar, where the shade was most
+welcome, we emerged on the north side of
+the town, and reached our destination at the
+Cavalry Barracks. We had been promised
+furnished quarters, but found bare floors and
+empty rooms; the building formed a large
+quadrangle, and was empty of all troops
+when we arrived. A little later our orderlies
+and servants appeared, bringing our kit
+from the steamer. On leaving Shamr&aacute;n
+colonels were allowed to take two orderlies
+or Indian servants, other officers being
+allowed one each.</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately, just before we left, some
+money in Turkish gold had been sent up by
+the Relieving Force by aeroplane, and thus
+all ranks had a little cash.</p>
+
+<p>When the second party reached Bagdad,
+the first party had already departed for Mosul,
+and rumours arose about the journey, people
+saying at first that we should have carriages
+from the railhead at Samarra, then that only
+donkeys would be available, while others
+thought we should be lucky to get anything.</p>
+
+<p>While at the barracks we were given a
+month's pay by the Turkish authorities, on
+what proved to be for senior officers a very
+generous scale, the greatest mercy being that
+half the amount was paid in gold. Had this<a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>
+not been done, we should have been in a
+truly sorry plight on the long journeys by
+road across the desert, since no Arab would
+look at Turkish notes, and insisted on being
+paid in hard cash.</p>
+
+<p>At this time, the Russian force under
+General Baratoff had made a sudden advance
+through the Pusht-i-Kuh mountains and
+reached Khanikin, 90 miles north-east
+of Bagdad; the Turks were therefore very
+anxious to get us away, while some of the
+under-strappers, evidently thinking the Russians
+would reach Bagdad, began to talk in a
+very different strain, pretending that they
+had really been pro-British all the time.</p>
+
+<p>Very few people succeeded in getting out
+of the barracks, but two or three officers,
+duly escorted, managed to get a gharry, and
+drove straight to the American consul, who
+arranged to give them money, and did everything
+he could for them. He said he expected
+to see many of us, and went on to tell them
+exactly what he thought of the campaign
+up to date. He was very pessimistic over the
+future treatment of the British troops, and
+declared that had we known what would
+happen to them we would have cut our way
+out of Kut at whatever cost. We hoped this
+was exaggeration, and that things would not<a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>
+turn out as badly as he expected; but events
+proved only too truly how entirely his fears
+were justified. Hopelessly inadequate rations,
+no transport, no medical arrangements for
+the sick who fell out, and utter incapability
+of all Turkish authorities, constitute one of
+the blackest crimes committed during any
+war.</p>
+
+<p>It is only right to add that whenever we
+met German officers they did all they could
+to help us, more than one saying they considered
+that we and they were civilized people
+in a land of barbarians.</p>
+
+<p>Two days after reaching Bagdad we were
+paraded in the hot sun in the afternoon and
+marched off to the station, passing over the
+bridge of boats and through the Shia quarter
+of the city, which lies on the right bank of
+the river. We were all only too glad to get
+away from the insanitary conditions which
+are inseparable from all Turkish buildings.</p>
+
+<p>After a wait of two hours at the station,
+we were packed into a train which started
+about six o'clock. A few miles north of Bagdad
+we passed the Great Mosque at Kazmain,
+its golden domes and minarets shining
+in the setting sun. The train proceeded at
+a good rate; everything in connection with
+the railway was naturally German, and of a<a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>
+substantial description. The length of line
+then completed to the railhead at Samaria
+was 80 miles, passing through slightly
+undulating country the whole way. This
+had been finished by the Germans before the
+war broke out.</p>
+
+<p>Most of us were weary, and many preferred
+lying on the floor of the corridors or vestibules
+at the end of the cars, to sitting straight up
+in the cramped compartments. We made
+several halts, and it was near midnight when
+we arrived. Our guards, a few gendarmes,
+seemed to have no idea where we were going,
+or what was to be done with us. Eventually
+we were told to leave our kit, which was to be
+brought along later, and were guided down
+towards the river. After walking a mile, we
+found ourselves in a small Arab village on
+the river bank, and were conducted into a
+courtyard some 40 yards square, where we
+were told we were to stay. There was a rough
+shelter round three sides, formed by brushwood
+supported on a rough wooden framework;
+this promised a certain amount of shade,
+and we were all glad to be in the open air
+rather than in another barrack building.
+There were no signs of any transport fetching
+our kit, so the most enterprising managed
+to procure two trollies, and trundled them up<a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>
+to the station along a narrow-gauge line.
+The Turks used this line for taking stores,
+ammunition, etc., to the railway, from the
+rafts on which they were floated down from
+Mosul. By dawn, nearly all the kit had been
+collected, and we had settled down as best
+we could.</p>
+
+<p>There was a certain amount of food obtainable
+from Arab vendors, and as we had our
+Indian servants, and a few things left from
+stores received at Shamr&aacute;n, we were fairly
+comfortable. As usual, no one seemed to
+know how long we were to be there, before our
+journey by road across the desert began.
+Fortunately, we were not guarded very
+strictly, and were allowed to go outside the
+courtyard, and down to the river to bathe;
+the current here was very strong, and only
+the most powerful swimmers could make any
+headway against it, and that only for a few
+yards.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Samarra was on the other
+bank, and some little height above the land
+on our side. It stands back from the river,
+and contains a fine mosque, with a golden
+dome. The inhabitants cross the river in
+gufahs&mdash;the large round coracles which are
+used all down the Tigris. Owing to the
+current a start always has to be made very<a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a>
+much higher up-stream than the point where
+it is desired to land on the other side.</p>
+
+<p>During the three or four days which we
+spent at Samarra, a large quantity of German
+gun-ammunition arrived by raft from up-stream,
+and was carried by Arabs up the bank
+to the trollies. These rafts carry big loads;
+they are formed by a skeleton frame of
+wood on which is placed brushwood, the
+frame being supported by inflated skins
+which are tied to it. On reaching the end
+of a journey, the skins are deflated and sent
+back up the river to be used again. As there
+are rapids between Samarra and Bagdad,
+it was not possible to float the rafts right
+down to Bagdad, and consequently everything
+had to be transhipped to the railway.
+One night some large motors arrived, and
+went on at once by road towards Bagdad.
+Reports immediately circulated that Enver
+Pasha had arrived; but this cannot have
+been true.</p>
+
+<p>We had now learnt who our commandant
+on the journey was to be. He was a yuzbashi
+or captain, by name Elmey Bey, a
+little man with an enormous moustache,
+which made him look very fierce. He knew
+a very little French, and could therefore
+be approached without an interpreter. We<a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>
+did not really appreciate him until later.
+One morning he escorted a few of us over to
+the town; there was nothing to be seen except
+the mosque, and we were not allowed to look
+at this even from the gateway, much less to
+enter the courtyard.</p>
+
+
+<a name="elmey_bey"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:578px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/elmey_bey.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="578" height="700">
+<p class="caption">ELMEY BEY<br><i>(From a Water-colour Drawing by Lt. Browne)</i></p></div>
+
+<p>After making a few purchases, we went
+into an Arab caf&eacute; and partook of coffee and
+tea flavoured with citron. Elmey Bey would
+not let us pay for anything, and we thought
+it most hospitable of him. He said he would
+accept our hospitality another day. However,
+he eventually left the caf&eacute; without
+paying anything, and apparently the proprietor
+was really our unwilling host.</p>
+
+<p>The town seemed very deserted, many of
+the inhabitants being over on the other side,
+selling anything they could to the first batch
+of troops, who had reached Samarra that
+morning by rail, and were now camped in the
+open a little way above us. We were not
+allowed to go to see them, but one or two
+managed to get messages through, and an
+Indian clerk belonging to my regiment came
+to see us. He looked thin, and had evidently
+had a hard time. He said that on the way
+to Bagdad the guards had flogged men who
+fell out, to see if they were really ill, and that
+conditions as regards rations were pretty<a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>
+bad generally. None of our men, however,
+had succumbed so far, and, as many of the
+regiment had been anything but fit to start
+with, we hoped they would be able to stand
+it. We gave him a few little things in the
+way of eatables before he went back.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, we were told we were going
+to march; and the question of transport
+became all-important. At first the Turks
+said there would be two animals&mdash;donkeys,
+mules, or ponies&mdash;to each officer; this seemed
+much too good to be true, and when the time
+came there was barely one animal to every
+officer. These had all been forcibly commandeered
+from the villagers round, and a
+good many were taken back again on the sly
+by their owners before we could get hold of
+them. Others were taken by the gendarmes
+who formed our guard, while several were
+too small to be of use, or were hopelessly lame.
+By the time we had got our kit packed, we
+had left for riding one reasonably large donkey
+and a diminutive beast between the six
+officers and seven Indian servants in our
+mess.</p>
+
+<p>We started at sunset in a dust-storm.
+Fortunately it did not last long, and we got
+along without mishap till about eleven o'clock,
+when a heavy rainstorm came on. All through<a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>
+the night, and especially after every halt,
+we had been urged on by our Arab escort
+shouting "Yallah, yallah!" This really
+means "O God!" but is used by the Arabs
+for "Get on and hurry up." How we came
+to loathe that cry! About two in the morning,
+we reached some water; luckily, in the
+dark, we could not see what we were drinking.
+We must have done fifteen to twenty miles;
+and, as most of us had not marched any
+distance for months, we were only too glad
+to fall asleep for a few hours. At dawn we
+were again on the move, having had some
+trouble in finding our own animals again;
+the wise had marked theirs with copying
+pencil, and this method was generally resorted
+to afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>We went on with halts of a few minutes
+every hour, and got down to the river again
+at midday. It was now pretty hot, and we
+were told we should arrive at Tekrit, a small
+Arab town, in one hour. Throughout Turkey
+and Mesopotamia distances are measured by
+hours; a good working plan is to add on
+50 per cent. to the average of what one is
+told, as no two men will ever say the same;
+if journeying by night it is safer to double it.</p>
+
+<p>That last hour to Tekrit was one of the worst
+we had; actually it was nearer two hours.<a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>
+There was a blazing sun, and we were very
+tired. The road left the river and went up a
+hill, then down and up again. On each rise
+we expected to see the town, but it was dreadfully
+slow in appearing. From some distance
+off we were met by Arab boys and women
+selling eggs, raisins, sour curds, and chapatties.
+Finally, we were taken through the
+place down to the river edge, a sort of dirty,
+stony beach, where we were told to camp;
+we had covered 30 to 35 miles in the
+last nineteen hours, and most of us had
+marched almost the whole distance.</p>
+
+<p>There was a small Arab caf&eacute; which we were
+allowed to use, but otherwise there was no
+shade. Arabs sauntered about our bivouac,
+and were anything but friendly; the place
+was filthy, and we were far from feeling
+cheerful.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the houses of the town stand up
+on a rocky crag above the river. Tekrit is
+a very old place, and at one time there was a
+bridge over the river here. It was laid waste
+by the Mongols and the people butchered.
+Before we left, we were all wishing that
+some such fate might be in store for the
+present inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>Some of us bathed, but the water was very
+shallow and dirty. Arabs could be seen<a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>
+swimming across the river supported on inflated
+skins, in exactly the same way as
+Xenophon has described their forefathers
+doing 2,000 years ago.</p>
+
+<p>That afternoon we tried to arrange to hire
+extra animals, as we felt that we could never
+get along if the succeeding marches were so
+severe. A good many animals were forthcoming,
+mostly mules and large donkeys.
+The usual terms were to be one pound in
+gold, paid in advance, and a second on arrival
+at Mosul. The following evening, just before
+starting, the owners demanded the whole two
+pounds in advance; there was nothing for
+it but to comply, the reason undoubtedly
+being that the commandant of the town
+and Elmey Bey both desired to have their
+share before starting, as otherwise they would
+not see any of it. A long delay ensued before
+we got off, and it was getting dark before we
+were clear of the town.</p>
+
+<p>The march that night was uneventful, and
+we halted for a few hours before dawn near
+the river, continuing our way as soon as it
+got light. We passed a few Arab encampments,
+formed of dark tents, where the nomads
+come at certain seasons to cultivate the surrounding
+land, together with their flocks
+of sheep and goats. Not a single house, or<a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a>
+even mud-hut, was to be seen. Our next
+halt, which we reached in the middle of the
+morning, was a serai standing by itself
+on a low ridge. It was built on the usual
+square pattern, and contained a well, which
+however, was not of very much use, as the
+water was unfit for drinking; drinking water
+had all to be carried from the river, over a
+mile away.</p>
+
+<p>Elmey Bey, or "Phil May," as we christened
+him, had by this time shown how anxious
+he was to help us, by doing nothing at all
+to assist us either in buying provisions or
+keeping prices down. Our escort consisted
+of a few Arab gendarmes, and, on arrival at
+any village or encampment, they would make
+the people put up their prices, and insist
+on taking the difference as commission themselves;
+whenever they could manage it
+they prevented all country people from approaching
+us until their own demands had
+been satisfied.</p>
+
+<p>Phil May rode the whole way, and would
+hurry on and be comfortably asleep in his
+camp bed by the time we reached the end of
+the march. If worried sufficiently by the
+senior officers, he would occasionally go to
+the extent of abusing one or more of the
+gendarmes, and administer the usual<a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>
+punishment adopted by all officers in the
+Turkish army&mdash;slapping the face of the culprit.
+It says a good deal for the discipline of the
+Turkish soldier that a sergeant will stand up
+like a lamb and have his face smacked by
+the veriest nincompoop of an officer.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the serai again the following morning,
+we did a short march of some six or
+seven miles only, down to the river. This
+was to be a very strenuous day, for that
+evening we were to start on the long waterless
+march about which we had heard so
+much. It was said to be 40 miles, that we
+should halt during the next day, and not
+reach water till the morning after, thus doing
+two all-night marches. Most people had
+bought goatskins, tied up to hold water, from
+the local Arabs. Most of them leaked more or
+less <a name="tn_png_68"></a><!--TN: Spaced added before "the"-->rapidly, the new skins being much the worst,
+and all gave the water a very strong flavour.</p>
+
+<p>We got away about 5 p.m., and nothing
+special happened till about 11 o'clock, when
+suddenly the escort became wildly excited,
+and dashed up and down; we were halted
+and told there were hostile Arabs about;
+the gendarmes fired off a few shots into the
+air, but nothing more occurred. All we
+could find to account for the disturbance
+was that one officer had lost his donkey,<a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>
+which had got loose and gone careering off
+to the side of the road. As it was a dark
+night, this may very likely have alarmed one
+or two of the gendarmes, who did not strike
+us as being men of valour.</p>
+
+<p>Two hours later we halted, and, after a
+sketchy supper, soon got to sleep. In the
+morning, instead of remaining where we were
+for the day, as we had expected, we had to
+move on once more to the tune of "Yallah,
+yallah." After three hours or so we reached
+some low sand-hills, and amongst these found
+an unexpected stream, where we proceeded
+to camp. This stream, like so many more
+in this part of the world, was not pure water,
+but contained salts of various descriptions, said
+by the Turks to make the water bad for
+drinking. We drank steadily from this and
+other similar streams; and, luckily, for the
+most part, felt no ill effects.</p>
+
+<p>That evening, we were again upon the road,
+our destination being Shilgat, a small Turkish
+post on the Tigris, which we were meeting
+once more. We arrived eventually about
+midnight, after a very wearisome march,
+and after a long wait were herded into the
+courtyard of the Turkish fort. When the kit
+had been sorted out, we were very soon
+asleep, the usual precautions being taken<a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a>
+to see that boots were hidden under one's
+valise, or tied up in some way to prevent theft.
+As the Turkish troops were always badly off
+for footgear, boots were the articles most
+often stolen, and several pairs had disappeared
+in this way before we reached our journey's
+end. All were thoroughly tired out, and it
+had been decided that we would insist on a
+rest the following day. Great was our wrath,
+therefore, to find ourselves awakened again
+at dawn, and told we must move at once to
+another place. Phil May came in for more
+abuse, and lost his temper promptly. We
+settled down, eventually, in another enclosure
+not far away, where we had more room.
+Later on, we succeeded in our efforts to get
+a whole day's rest.</p>
+
+<p>In ancient times Shilgat was Assur, the
+first capital of the Assyrian Empire. Arch&aelig;ologists
+had evidently been at work here;
+all the foundations of the old city had been laid
+bare; it had covered a considerable area,
+and had been built largely of marble. Situated
+on a high promontory overlooking the
+Tigris and the flat plains beyond, the old town
+must have been an imposing sight from all
+the surrounding country. Now, only the
+foundations remain, and no carving or inscriptions
+are to be seen.<a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a></p>
+
+<p>Next day, we were off once more across
+flat, uninteresting country, keeping close to
+the river. At the start, there was considerable
+delay owing to donkeys getting bogged in
+a creek which we had to cross. After a
+midday halt for a couple of hours, we
+continued our weary way, and finally
+bivouacked for the night on the bank of
+the river.</p>
+
+<p>The following day's march proved one of
+the most unpleasant of the whole journey.
+After an early start, we soon reached a Turkish
+post, where a long delay occurred while our
+orderlies drew rations. At this place there
+were small bitumen works, these being the
+first signs of any modern industry which we
+had seen since leaving Bagdad. A little
+farther on, the track rose to higher ground,
+and we left the river away on our right. It
+began to get hot towards midday, and a warm
+wind got up, bringing clouds of dust to meet
+us. At length, in the afternoon, we reached
+a Turkish post, where after much altercation
+we were refused an entrance, and had to retrace
+our steps to a somewhat sulphurous
+stream a little way back, where we camped
+for the night.</p>
+
+<p>The country all round at this time of year
+is covered with long thin grass, and in many<a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>
+places there are quantities of wild flowers,
+scarlet poppies being very conspicuous.</p>
+
+<p>In order to defeat the gendarmes, we had
+by now formed a kind of trade union for buying
+eggs from villagers. On approaching
+each place, it was decided how much should
+be paid for eggs, these being more in demand
+than any other kind of food. In the Bagdad
+district the Persian kron is the usual unit:
+a kron is equivalent to fourpence or two
+Turkish piastres; farther north the piastre,
+or qrush, is used. The cheapest rate we
+obtained for eggs was eight for a piastre, or
+four a penny, whereas when the gendarmes
+had their own way we had to pay a penny for
+each.</p>
+
+<p>Our next march took us to Ham&agrave;mali, a
+place on the river, and containing an old
+bath, as its name implies. There are bitumen
+springs entering the river here, but they
+are not strong enough to render the water
+unfit for drinking. Supplies were very plentiful&mdash;eggs,
+raisins, bread, and dates being the
+most sought after. After a few hours' rest
+and a bathe in the river, we started off again
+in the evening, looking forward to a real rest
+on reaching Mosul the next day. We bivouacked
+beside the road, and were moving at
+an early hour next morning. The road wound<a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>
+up and down over low hills, and some attempt
+had been made to metal the surface and build
+good bridges, showing that we were getting
+near to an important place. As we reached
+the top of one ridge, a full view of the Tigris
+valley burst upon us, Mosul lying straight
+ahead of us, while farther to the right across
+the river lay the ruins of old Nineveh. In the
+immediate foreground, the course of the river
+was marked by green cultivated land and
+low woods, while away, in the distance, rose
+the dark mountains of Kurdistan.</p>
+
+<p>On approaching the town more closely,
+one noticed a great difference in the mosques,
+as compared with Bagdad. Here the minarets
+were of plain stone-work, and were not
+capped by gorgeous golden domes or brilliant
+blue tile-work.</p>
+
+<p>We were marched into a large building,
+formed on the usual Turkish pattern of a
+hollow square. This seemed to be chiefly
+used as a prison. We were given three or four
+empty rooms on the upper story. Water
+was scarce, and had to be brought in by hand.
+In other respects, the building had all the filthy
+characteristics inseparable from the Turk.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after arriving, we were given Red
+Crescent post-cards to send home, and these
+turned out to be the first news our friends<a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>
+in England received from us. For food we
+were allowed to go out to restaurants in the
+town. One of these, run by a Frenchman,
+was a great joy to us, after the scratch meals
+which we had been forced to be content
+with for so long. We had covered the 175
+miles from Samarra to Mosul in just under
+ten days, and had it not been for the extra
+animals hired at Tekrit we should scarcely
+have managed this. As it was, most people
+could ride for an hour and walk for an
+hour alternately, though some were not so
+fortunate.</p>
+
+<p>We were promised many things in Mosul,
+amongst others that we should be allowed to
+go to bathe in the river. This was never
+allowed in the end, although we went in parties
+to the bazaar, where we laid in stocks of
+flour, rice, and raisins, for the journey on
+to Ras-el-Ain. We were told that very
+few supplies were obtainable on the road
+until we reached Nisibin, 120 miles away.</p>
+
+<p>At Samarra, we had left behind a few
+officers who had not sufficiently recovered
+from the effects of the siege to proceed at
+once on the road journey. At Shilgat, we
+picked up one officer left by the first party,
+and left one or two of our own servants
+behind. All these we hoped would recover<a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>
+enough to come on with the troops or subsequent
+parties of officers. At Mosul, we
+found one of our doctors left behind by the
+first party, and attending to an officer who
+was down with enteric.</p>
+
+<p>After a rest of two days at Mosul, we
+started off on June 1 for the 200 miles to the
+railhead at Ras-el-Ain. Our transport was
+now composed chiefly of carts, and a few extra
+carts were hired by paying in advance as
+before. There was the usual uncertainty as
+to how many marches it would take us, and
+how many hours we should be on the road
+the first day. We were now going almost
+due west, and would not see our old friend
+the Tigris again.</p>
+
+<p>In response to our complaints to the commandant
+at Mosul of the way in which our
+Arab escort had behaved, these men were
+changed for Turkish soldiers, who gave us
+less trouble. Our party was accompanied
+by three magnificent Arab horses, which were
+being taken to Constantinople for Enver
+Pasha. The Mosul district has been the
+finest horse-breeding country in Asia from the
+earliest times; indeed, it would be hard to
+imagine a country better suited for the purpose
+than the rolling grassy plains stretching
+away on both sides of the river.<a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a></p>
+
+<p>After leaving the Tigris, we did not see a
+single tree for a hundred miles, and there was
+very little water of any description. The
+first night we spent by some dirty pools
+after a march of more than twenty miles.
+The carts were not as restful as might be
+imagined, since they had no springs, and
+every few minutes the Jehu would urge his
+steeds into a canter to catch up distance lost
+on the cart in front, or merely to try to get
+ahead of it. The harness was largely composed
+of string and rope, which often gave
+way, thus occasioning a long rattle for all
+on board before the former place in the procession
+was regained. Some of the horses
+had most appalling sores: they are evidently
+worked till they drop, and receive the harshest
+treatment from the drivers. The boys driving
+our carts were Kurds, wild, quick-tempered,
+and reckless.</p>
+
+<p>The second day brought us to a camp
+beside a stream of pure sweet water, a welcome
+change after all the dirty pools and salt-laden
+springs which we had experienced.
+The following day, after a halt near some
+dirty springs at noon, we started on another
+long waterless trek in the late afternoon.
+We went on steadily all night, passing a
+large prairie fire. These fires are started to<a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>
+burn up the old long grass and make way
+for the fresh growth. They extend for miles,
+and at night are a fine sight, with heavy
+clouds of smoke hanging above.</p>
+
+<p>We halted for two hours about two in the
+morning, and then got under way once more.
+About nine o'clock we came to a good stream
+and towards midday reached our camp at
+Demir Kapo. Here, there was a small river
+which yielded a number of fish. We saw a
+few Germans, and a German wireless section
+was camped near. We bathed in the stream,
+and were very glad to rest for the remainder
+of the day and the following morning.</p>
+
+<p>Two more marches brought us to Nisibin.
+The country after leaving Mosul had been
+almost uninhabited, but here there were small
+villages dotted about. On getting nearer to
+them, we found that they were deserted;
+our guards told us they were Armenian
+villages, and that the people had all been
+killed earlier in the war. We passed a great
+many of these awful testimonies to the
+barbarity of Turkish politics.</p>
+
+<p>Away on our right, as we approached
+Nisibin, could be seen Mardin, a city built
+on a rock overlooking the plains, and forming,
+as it were, a look-out from the southern fringe
+of the Taurus Mountains. As to how far<a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>
+Mardin also was a city of the dead, it was
+impossible to tell. Before the war, the main
+Armenian population had extended from this
+district over a belt of land running north-eastwards
+up to Erzerum and Van.</p>
+
+<p>At Nisibin, we camped near the river, and
+had a full day's rest. This place saw as much
+fighting as any spot in Mesopotamia in the
+old days, having been the frontier station between
+Rome and Parthia. There are not
+many relics of the past to be seen at the
+present day, but close to our bivouac stood
+four old pillars, bearing transverse stones
+which had formed part of the Roman Forum.
+They stood out forlornly in a field on high
+ground, and, as might be expected, supported
+a stork's nest. These birds often build a
+new nest on the top of one or more old ones:
+they are very common in Mesopotamia, and
+several were seen in Bagdad.</p>
+
+<p>The following evening saw us moving on
+again, and the day after we halted at midday
+at Tel Erman. At this point, there is a road
+branching away to the north of the route
+we had followed and leading up to Diarbekr.
+The Turks were moving a good many troops
+at this time up to the Caucasus fronts, through
+Diarbekr, to meet the Russian pressure. We
+found a large camel convoy just beyond the<a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>
+village; since leaving Mosul we had met no
+troops or convoys destined for Bagdad or
+the Persian front; everything for Mesopotamia
+appeared to go down the Euphrates
+on rafts, this being the quickest way.</p>
+
+<p>Tel Erman lived in our memories as being
+the first place where we had obtained any
+fruit since leaving Bagdad three weeks before.
+Some small cherries and apricots were to
+be had and were eagerly bought up.</p>
+
+<p>During the evening's march, we passed
+a regiment of Turkish cavalry, who, for
+Turks, seemed to be wonderfully well equipped.
+The average Turk never looks happy on a
+horse, but these fellows made a better show
+than usual. As we approached the railhead
+at Ras-el-Ain, signs of activity increased,
+and there were more dead horses at the
+roadside, showing that the traffic was heavier.</p>
+
+<p>The last day's march was one of the worst;
+during the morning stage the sun was hot,
+there was no breeze, and quantities of sand-flies
+assailed us. Towards midday, we
+reached a big Turkish camp, where there
+were a good many men and stores in course
+of transit eastwards. Here we rested until
+late in the afternoon, when our final march
+to Ras-el-Ain began. The last few miles
+were accomplished at a good pace to a<a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>
+sustained whistling accompaniment, ranging
+over most of the popular songs of the last
+few years.</p>
+
+<p>Every one thought that our troubles were
+over, as we were now on a railway, and whatever
+might happen would not have to walk
+any farther. These hopes were dispelled a
+few days later, when we heard of the two
+breaks in the line across the Taurus Mountains,
+which had not yet been completed,
+thus necessitating two more trips by road.</p>
+
+<p>We bivouacked in the open by the station,
+and early in the morning were told to get
+ready at once to go by the next train. An
+hour later, it appeared that we were not
+going till the following day. By this time
+we had ceased to pay much attention to
+Turkish orders, unless we saw that actual
+preparations were being made to carry them
+out. In the afternoon, the Turks took away
+all Hindu orderlies and servants, and informed
+us that all the doctors in our party,
+except one, were to stay here to look after
+the Indian troops on their arrival, as the
+latter were going to be put to work on continuing
+the railway farther east towards
+Nisibin. We were very sorry for our medical
+friends, since their prospects looked anything
+but cheerful. Local food supplied from the<a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>
+country round seemed almost non-existent,
+and the shops in the village had very little.</p>
+
+<p>By the time we reached Ras-el-Ain, we
+had completed 200 miles from Mosul in ten
+days. Most of us had walked half the distance,
+and bumped in carts over the other half.
+We had kept tolerably cheerful, apart from
+a few inveterate grousers; altogether we
+had survived wonderfully well, and had fared
+infinitely better than the troops from Kut,
+who were marching along in our tracks a few
+days behind us.</p>
+
+<p>From Ras-el-Ain we started for Aleppo
+the next morning, the journey taking nearly
+twelve hours. The only interesting place
+through which we passed was Jerrablus,
+the ancient Carchemish, where the line crosses
+the Euphrates by a fine bridge. There was
+not much sign of activity on the river banks,
+but before we left the station a complete
+train loaded with German motor-lorries had
+arrived, and after a few minutes continued
+its way eastwards.</p>
+
+<p>On reaching Aleppo, in the evening, the
+orderlies and servants were marched off by
+themselves, and after loading our kit on to
+carts we were driven away in gharries from
+the station. This seemed to be almost the
+height of luxury, and we thought that at<a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>
+last we had reached a place where we should
+be really well treated. The gharries took us
+to various small hotels, but when once inside
+we were not allowed to go out again. The
+Turks said that our kit would be delivered
+at once; some people waited up hoping
+for the arrival of their valises, but the wiser
+seized what bedding there was obtainable
+in the hotel, and laying it on a veranda made
+the best of a bad job, and went to sleep.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning, we were not allowed out
+to get any food. The hotel sharks refused
+to let boys come up with rolls, but tried to
+sell to us themselves at double the prices.
+However, we eventually got hold of a boy
+who threw up rolls from the street below to
+our veranda, and thus outwitted our enemies.</p>
+
+<p>All efforts to get out for breakfast, or to
+fetch our kit, proved unavailing, until about
+midday we were allowed to go a few yards
+down the street to where our kit had all been
+thrown inside a gateway the night before.
+Fortunately, although a good many valises
+had evidently been opened, very little had
+been stolen.</p>
+
+<p>It was not until four o'clock in the afternoon
+that we were finally allowed out in
+parties to a restaurant not a hundred yards
+away. While we were shut in, we had seen<a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a>
+Phil May in the road and shouted to him;
+but, although he could see very well what
+we wanted, he never took the trouble to come
+into the hotel, much less to help us.</p>
+
+<p>The next day passed in much the same
+fashion, except that we were allowed out at
+midday, and no one was sorry when we were
+marched off back to the station early the
+following morning. Here we met the orderlies,
+who had fared much worse than we had.
+The first night they had been packed into a
+small room in some filthy barracks, and had
+suffered severely from the verminous pests
+which flourish in every Turkish building.</p>
+
+<p>A railway journey of a few hours brought
+us to Islahie, which was then the railhead
+for the journey over the Anti-Taurus range.</p>
+
+<p>There were some Austrian troops in Aleppo,
+and we now began to meet many more
+Germans. Turkish training-camps were much
+in evidence at the stations we passed after
+leaving Aleppo, and a good deal of material
+was going south on the railway. Most of this
+was going to Egypt to assist in the attack
+which ended so disastrously for the Turks.</p>
+
+<p>We spent the night at Islahie under some
+rough tent shelters. All our clothes had
+been fumigated in a steam waggon specially
+designed for the purpose.<a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a></p>
+
+<p>The following morning we noticed a crowd
+of men, women, and children moving off
+along the road and looking very wretched.
+Our guards said that these were Armenians
+who had been working on the line, but were
+being taken away to make room for our troops,
+who would be set to work in their place;
+they also added that these Armenians would
+be marched off into a waterless spot in the
+hills, and kept there till they died.</p>
+
+<p>We left our camp in the evening, travelling
+the first part of the way in carts, over one
+of the most bumpy roads ever seen. After
+a halt at the foot of the pass, we marched up,
+starting at midnight. There was a fine
+moon, and the scenery as we climbed higher
+became very grand. The road appeared
+to be only lately completed, and was probably
+due to German energy. As we neared the
+summit three or four bodies were seen lying
+in the ditch beside the road; these were
+evidently some of the Armenians we had seen
+starting off that morning. After descending
+the farther side, we bivouacked under trees
+in a pretty spot, and on the slope opposite
+saw the Armenians. Soon after they left
+and we did not see anything more of them.
+That evening we continued our way downhill,
+meeting several batches of sturdy Turkish<a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a>
+youths who had just been called up and were
+on their way to training-camps near Aleppo.
+We were descending rapidly, and our drivers
+maintained a headlong gallop, with the result
+that two carts were completely overturned,
+but fortunately with no ill effects to the
+passengers. We finally bivouacked not far
+from the railhead, and reached the station
+of Mamour&eacute; early the following morning.</p>
+
+<p>The railway journey across the plain,
+through Adana, took some six hours, bringing
+us to Kulek Boghaz, a station within five
+miles of Tarsus. From this point the road
+journey over the main Taurus range began.
+All supplies were being brought over by
+German motor-lorries, and everything was
+being run by a German commandant. During
+the night several helmets were stolen and
+probably found their way to German soldiers,
+who either had no sun helmets or very inferior
+ones. The commandant did his best to recover
+them, but without success. He told
+us that we should leave the next morning
+at 9 o'clock. Punctually to the minute,
+a dozen motor-lorries rolled up, and we were
+soon speeding along the road towards the
+mountains. The road had been cut up
+dreadfully by the heavy traffic, so that we
+were jolted about almost as badly as we had<a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>
+been in the Turkish carts. The scenery
+grew finer as we ascended, until half-way we
+reached an open space amongst the hills,
+which the Germans had made the headquarters
+of their motor service, and christened
+"Camp Taurus." Here were enormous
+repair tents, one for each make of car, with
+living quarters and offices all of a most complete
+and elaborate type. After a halt here,
+we continued our way, still rising slowly until
+we entered the Cilician Gates, where the road
+just finds room to pass through a narrow
+rocky gorge. On the farther side, the descent
+begins at once, and is very steep in places.
+The road here was being repaired by bands
+of forced labourers, and had a much better
+surface.</p>
+
+<p>As we neared the railway again, at Bozanti,
+we noticed a few British prisoners. These
+were naval men taken in the Dardanelles.
+They said they were being paid, and apparently
+had not much to complain about. We
+were not allowed to stop and speak to them,
+and can only hope that they fared better
+than our own troops who were put to work
+shortly afterwards on the neighbouring sections
+of the line through the Taurus.</p>
+
+<p>At Bozanti, we were able to buy a few stores,
+some of which were British and had been<a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>
+left behind at Gallipoli when we evacuated
+the peninsula. With only a short wait, we
+were packed like sardines into a train, and
+the next stage of the journey began.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning we reached Konia, and
+were told to leave the train, but not to take
+our kit out, as the train was stopping for some
+time. The local commandant arrived, and
+proved to be the best Turkish officer we had
+met. Under his direction, we were taken
+to a hospital building, where there were two
+large rooms containing rough beds. These
+were a great delight after sleeping on the
+ground for weeks. The commandant, a little
+later, decided that we should be allowed to
+remain here until the next day, so that we
+might have a rest. If we had relied on Phil
+May, our kit would have all gone on in the
+afternoon to Constantinople, but luckily we
+just managed to rescue it in time.</p>
+
+<p>The greatest delight of Konia, from our
+point of view, was an hotel near the station,
+to which we were allowed to go for meals.
+This was run by a Frenchwoman, who was
+kindness itself, and could not do enough for
+us. Few of us will forget the delights of
+her omelets or the hot baths in a real long
+bath, the first we had seen since leaving
+India.<a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a></p>
+
+<p>The journey next day was more comfortable,
+as we had more room. After spending
+another night in the train, we arrived in the
+morning at Afion Kara Hissar, where a good
+number of Gallipoli prisoners were interned.
+In the evening, we reached Eski Chehir, the
+junction for the Angora line. Here all our
+Mohammedan servants were taken from us.
+We were conducted a little way into the town
+to the houses where a number of Indian
+Mohammedan officers, who had come along
+with the first party, were living. They seemed
+to have fared pretty well, and certainly had
+very good quarters. They were very glad to
+see us, and we anxiously inquired after their
+experiences by the way.</p>
+
+<p>Up to this point we had fondly imagined
+that Angora would be the end of our journey,
+but just before starting in the evening we
+were told that another ten days by road lay
+in front of us after reaching Angora. We
+were packed tight in the train, and rumbled
+on slowly through the night, arriving at
+Angora at eleven o'clock next day. Our kit
+was left to be brought in carts, while we
+were marched through the town to a big
+building over a mile beyond. This had
+been built as an Agricultural College, but
+latterly used as a Military School. Here we<a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a>
+found the first party of officers, whom we
+had last seen at Shamr&aacute;n camp. They seemed
+to have had a much more unpleasant journey
+than we had; whether it was because they
+had most of the staff officers amongst them,
+or had adopted the plan of telling every Turk
+and interpreter exactly what they thought
+of them, certain it is that they were not enjoying
+life, and when we arrived had not
+been allowed outside the building for two
+whole days.</p>
+
+<p>We had bidden farewell to Phil May with
+great delight at Eski Chehir, and had since
+then been in charge of a much pleasanter
+officer. Thanks to his efforts, we succeeded
+in getting permission to stay out of doors to
+cook and to go down to a neighbouring
+stream to bathe in the evening. We felt that
+the first party really owed us a great debt of
+gratitude in thus providing them with an
+opportunity of washing and getting a little
+fresh air.</p>
+
+<p>All our orderlies had been marched off
+from the station to some dirty Turkish
+barracks, so that we were entirely dependent
+on our own culinary efforts. Two days after
+our arrival, the first party left in carts for
+Yozgad, a distance of 100 miles due
+east on the road to Sivas and Erzerum. We<a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>
+remained for a week, being only allowed
+to go into the town once to make purchases.
+The journey to Kastamuni began under the
+best conditions. The weather was perfect,
+and as we were well over 2,000 feet above
+sea-level the sun was never too hot at midday.
+Also, we had a new commandant,
+who did what he could to help us. The
+distance in front of us was 140 miles, and we
+expected to take fully a week.</p>
+
+<p>The road led through countless orchards
+for the first few miles, and then on into more
+open country. Cherries and small apricots
+abounded, and supplies in general were
+plentiful; a very different state of affairs
+existed a year later, when prices had doubled
+and trebled, and in many cases advanced
+very much more. We reached a small village
+the first evening, and our commandant appeared
+much surprised that we should prefer
+to sleep in the open rather than in the very
+doubtful shelters attached to the local rest-house.</p>
+
+<p>The following day we reached Kalejik,
+a picturesque little place with the ruins of
+an old castle perched on a rocky pinnacle in
+the centre of the town. Some such ruin
+seems to keep watch over all Turkish towns.
+We had already seen similar old forts<a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>
+perched on hills at Afion Kara Hissar and
+Angora.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning, most of our carts were taken
+away, and we were given donkeys instead.
+A small moke cannot keep pace with a cart,
+and it is an open question whether riding
+the animal with a loading saddle is less fatiguing
+than walking along and driving it in front
+of one. Provided all one's kit had been put
+on a cart, the easiest way was often to let
+the moke go where it liked, and walk on
+oneself without it.</p>
+
+<p>Two days from Kalejik brought us to
+Changri, a prettily situated little place, which
+came suddenly into view, as we rounded a
+bend in the road, after traversing a very
+desolate and uninteresting stretch of country
+all day. We bivouacked under some trees
+by a stream, which, however, was not fit
+to drink from. The local commandant and
+Town Council paid us a visit. We were
+allowed to visit the bazaar, and generally
+made ourselves comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning, we were given more carts
+again, much to our delight, and continued
+our way northward. The road now began
+to cross some high ridges. On one of these
+we passed a police post, and a halt was made
+while our commandant stalked a few sitting<a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>
+pigeons with his shot-gun, eventually securing
+one after a great deal of trouble. Beyond
+sand-grouse, between Bagdad and Mosul,
+we had seen very little game of any sort since
+we left Kut.</p>
+
+<p>We camped by a stream, after a very steep
+and bumpy descent from a high ridge. It
+is extraordinary what treatment the light
+Turkish transport carts can stand without
+anything giving way.</p>
+
+<p>Our next march led us up a very long
+ascent, and proved the most enjoyable day
+of our whole journey. After ascending some
+distance, the road entered pine woods, and
+reminded us very strongly of roads near
+different hill stations in India. We halted
+at midday very near the top of the pass, which
+must be close on 4,000 feet, while the mountains
+on either side rise to another 2,000 feet.
+The views were glorious, and we wished it
+might have been possible to stay longer in
+such scenery. By evening, we had dropped
+down a long distance on the other side and
+were nearly out of the woods again when we
+halted for our last bivouac.</p>
+
+<p>We were now within ten miles of Kastamuni,
+and by eleven o'clock next morning,
+July 5th, were in sight of the place. The old
+castle, standing on its rocky crest, was the<a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>
+first sight which greeted us as we looked down
+into the valley from the top of the ridge along
+which we had come. The town, spreading
+up and down the valley round the base of
+the castle rock, seemed very much larger than
+any Turkish town we had seen since leaving
+Aleppo. The valley was green with cultivated
+fields and trees, while the hillsides were
+bare and brown.</p>
+
+<p>We were halted just outside the town, while
+a number of local gendarmes formed up on
+each side of the road. After a long wait,
+we thus progressed in state into the town
+and through the bazaar to our quarters, which
+proved to be houses from which the former
+Greek inhabitants had been ejected. In the
+end, although somewhat crowded, we found
+ourselves each with a bed, bedding, and a
+little other furniture. Most of us had not
+slept in a bed for eight months or more, apart
+perhaps from a few days in hospital, and all
+we desired at the moment was one long rest.</p>
+
+<p>During the last week, which had been by
+far the pleasantest of the whole trek, we had
+averaged twenty miles a day. Our journey
+altogether had been nearly 1,700 miles, and
+was probably the longest distance across
+country any prisoners of war have had to
+travel to the place of their confinement.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">LIFE IN KASTAMUNI</p>
+
+<p class="subchapterhd"><i>July</i> 1916&mdash;<i>August 1917</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>O</span></span><span class="firstwords">n</span>
+arrival in Kastamuni, we were
+divided into two groups, one being
+accommodated in a large building,
+formerly a Greek school, with one or two
+adjacent houses, and the other in a number
+of houses in a street lower down the hill.
+Both places were on the edge of the town in
+the Greek quarter. The schoolhouse was
+perched high up and commanded a splendid
+view across the town in the valley towards
+the hills, beyond which lay the Black Sea&mdash;only
+some 40 miles away.</p>
+
+<p>The houses were built up on a wooden
+frame-work, the bricks being thrown in to
+fill up the intervening spaces in a most casual
+manner. The best houses were covered with
+stucco; but, however good in appearance,
+each house in Turkey has its own numerous
+population of small inhabitants. An Austrian<a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>
+lady whom we met assured us that her house
+was the only one in the town free from these
+pests, and we could well believe it.</p>
+
+<p>The town itself is shut in by the valley and
+presents a confused jumble of houses, with
+almost innumerable mosques, and in the
+centre one or two large Government buildings.
+The mosques are not particularly beautiful,
+there being no golden domes or blue tilework.
+The most pretentious have plain grey stone
+minarets, while the smaller ones have to be
+content with little steeples of wood. During
+Ramazan a ring of lights is kept burning at
+night round each minaret, and gives the town
+a strange appearance, as these are the only
+lights showing, there being no such thing
+as street lamps, and very few lights in
+private houses&mdash;with kerosine at a prohibitive
+price.</p>
+
+<p>After the weary march from Kut, we were
+only too delighted to get into our new quarters,
+and sleeping in a bed again was a luxury
+not soon to be forgotten. A restaurant
+had been arranged, and we found a very
+good meal ready for us soon after arrival.
+Unfortunately, this was much the best
+repast we obtained from the contractor,
+and when it came to arranging a daily
+messing scheme we had to be content with<a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a>
+a very moderate programme. However, every
+one had got so tired of scraping along, cooking
+and foraging for themselves on the journey up,
+that any sort of plan by which some one else
+would do the work was not to be refused, even
+if we were to be done over it.</p>
+
+<p>During the summer of 1916, food in the
+town was comparatively cheap, eggs being
+a halfpenny each or less, and good white
+flour about sixpence a pound. Fruit was to
+be had in prolific quantities, the cherries
+being especially good. But no one takes
+any trouble to cultivate fruit in this part of
+Turkey. There are grapes, melons, peaches,
+apples and pears in great profusion, but all
+of the commonest kind. Had the country
+any communications worth the name, no doubt
+it would be different, but, as it is, the Turk
+is content with what grows by itself and does
+not need any special attention. The local
+taste in over-ripe and bad pears was most
+surprising. For weeks one would see baskets
+of rotting pears in the bazaar on market
+days and the country people enjoying them.</p>
+
+<p>The ruined castle on its rocky pinnacle
+must have dated back to very early times;
+it is now used as a "look-out" station and
+has three ancient guns, which are fired as
+an alarm in case of fire and at other moments<a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>
+of importance, such as the first sight of the
+new moon at the end of Ramazan. The
+greatest wonder to us was that the whole
+town had not been burnt down long ago,
+since all the bazaar houses were wooden and
+dry as tinder. The fire brigade consisted of
+one prehistoric manual pump which was
+carried about on the shoulders of five or six
+youths, with a scratch collection of hose and
+buckets. On one occasion a major of the
+S.&nbsp;&amp;&nbsp;T.&nbsp;Corps was so overcome with laughter
+on seeing this apparition that the commandant,
+feeling much insulted, had him confined to
+the house for a fortnight.</p>
+
+<p>This was our first commandant, a very
+ignorant specimen, who, so report said, had
+been a farmer in the Caucasus. He was a
+most depressing sight at all times. Most
+Turkish officers only shave on Thursdays,
+and he was no exception to the rule. His
+trousers invariably swept the ground; he
+always wore goloshes several sizes too large
+and an old overcoat. He would shuffle
+about with his hands in his pockets, his
+shoulders hunched up, looking the picture
+of misery. Yet, notwithstanding his apparent
+dejection, he was making quite a good thing
+out of us, as we found out later on. The
+restaurant contractor was paying him about<a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>
+&pound;30 a month, and, between them, they were
+charging us rent for our quarters, which was
+quite contrary to all rules. Another little
+source of income was making us each pay
+for a 5-piastre receipt stamp for our
+monthly pay instead of a 2&frac12;d.</p>
+
+<p>This commandant knew no language except
+Turkish, and consequently an interpreter
+was needed on all occasions. At the start
+this was a Greek, who made great protestations
+of his friendliness to us; but we very
+soon found him to be a double-faced blackguard
+doing his best to make a good thing
+out of us by arranging for commissions with
+the shopkeepers with whom we dealt.</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately for us, early in 1917, a Turkish
+colonel&mdash;Zeur Bey, from Constantinople&mdash;arrived
+unexpectedly on a visit of inspection,
+with the result that the commandant was
+promptly dismissed and matters regarding
+overcharges for house rent put right. The
+commandant was said to have been seen on
+his knees before the colonel imploring forgiveness.
+This at all events was the story
+of Sherif Bey, the second in command, who was
+by way of being very anxious to do all he
+could for us. On our march from Angora to
+Kastamuni he had certainly done his best for
+us, but later on we were forced to distrust him.<a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a></p>
+
+<p>Turkish officers, as a rule, have very good
+manners and promise one almost anything
+without the least idea of ever keeping their
+word. They speak French with a very good
+accent, which makes one give them credit
+for knowing a great deal more of that language
+than is usually the case. It is quite
+impossible to describe the uniforms worn by
+officers, as one so seldom sees two dressed
+alike. All material being so scarce and expensive,
+uniforms were made from almost
+anything, and there being no such person as a
+provost-marshal no one could interfere. Consequently,
+one saw some officers dressed in a
+highly picturesque style, looking as if they
+had just been taking a part in "The Chocolate
+Soldier" or "The Balkan Princess,"
+and others whom one could only recognize
+from shopkeepers by their badges of rank.</p>
+
+<p>The Greek interpreter was the first one of
+the original staff to depart. After him, two
+very much better fellows were sent us. One
+of these was a young Turk named Remzi,
+who had been a naval cadet in Constantinople
+when the war broke out&mdash;and still cherished
+the fond hope of one day being an officer in
+the British Navy, for which he had the most
+profound veneration. Unfortunately, in trying
+to help us, he wrote to Constantinople;<a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>
+got into trouble with his seniors, and was sent
+away. We were thus left with the second
+man, an Armenian, who was always called
+"Napoleon" from his likeness to the Great
+Man. Napoleon was very cautious, but,
+considering the difficulty of his own position,
+he did us very well.</p>
+
+<p>After our first commandant had disappeared,
+his successor arrived in the shape of
+a very small, but very stout and cheery little
+man, named Fattah Bey. He proved to be
+a very good fellow and things were soon
+running much more pleasantly. A great
+point in his favour was that he spoke German,
+and we were thus able to dispense with an
+interpreter. Capt. H., of the I.A.R.O., took
+charge of him on most occasions, and after
+we had had him a few weeks he was becoming
+quite pro-British.</p>
+
+<p>The greatest events in our life were undoubtedly
+the arrival of a mail or parcels.
+The letters we received in July 1916, soon
+after our arrival, were the first news most of
+us had had from our friends at home since
+before the siege began in Kut nearly eight
+months earlier. On an average, letters came
+through every ten days or so, the quickest
+time taken from home, via Switzerland,
+Vienna and Constantinople, being 25 days.<a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>
+Parcels travelled by the same route, but
+were very much longer in making their
+appearance. At first they arrived in three to
+four months, but gradually took longer and
+longer, until finally they were eight and nine
+months on the way. The reason for this
+delay was to be found in Vienna, where all
+parcels were transhipped, and apparently
+thrown into a depot until such time as the
+Austrian officials decided to send a few more
+on. Any big operations on the Italian front
+had the immediate effect of stopping all
+parcels and sometimes letters as well. There
+were exceedingly few cases of anything having
+been actually stolen and, up to a certain date,
+officers had received nearly all parcels sent
+from home.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after our arrival, we received a number
+of gifts through the American Embassy in
+Constantinople, who were at that time looking
+after our interests. These consisted of thin
+cotton things for the summer, and, when
+wearable, were of considerable use. Unfortunately,
+they were much too small, and
+it was a very lucky man who could wear the
+trousers he was given. Later on, more
+clothes arrived, these being thick winter
+garments which, although not providing the
+same amount of amusement, fitted us better<a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>
+and were a great godsend, since it was not
+until the New Year that people began to
+receive the clothes they wanted from home.</p>
+
+<p>The winter in Kastamuni and, in fact,
+over most of Asia Minor can be very severe;
+but it is a dry and healthy cold. In February
+1917, we had well over 20 degrees of
+frost for days, and during the following
+winter the temperature at Changri went down
+to 6 degrees below zero. Indeed, it would
+have been hard to find a better climate than
+Kastamuni, which was 2,500 feet above the
+sea. The rainfall there was very small and
+confined almost entirely to March and April.
+The summer temperature was very much
+the same as in England, but drier.</p>
+
+<p>As one gets nearer to the Black Sea coast,
+the rainfall increases and the vegetation gets
+thicker. Between Angora and Changri there
+are wide stretches of almost desert land.
+At Kastamuni we had pine woods and shrubs
+on the hills, while all the valleys were extensively
+irrigated. On the Black Sea coast
+itself the climate is much milder in winter and
+there are thick woods of beech, oak and fir
+with heavy undergrowth.</p>
+
+<p>Apart from the kitchen, which always has
+a huge open chimney, there were no fireplaces
+of the ordinary kind in the houses. All heating<a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>
+in winter is done by stoves of sheet iron with
+a chimney leading out through the nearest
+wall. These stoves, fed with wood, give out
+a tremendous heat for a short time, but it is
+very hard to maintain anything approaching
+an even temperature. Wood was plentiful
+during the winter of 1916-17, and we used
+to buy it in the form of whole logs. These
+we had sawn up by two Armenians into short
+lengths, which we then split with an axe.
+This gave us a good deal of exercise during
+the cold winter mornings. Unfortunately,
+the next year, wood had become scarce and
+much more expensive and all prisoners
+suffered considerably in consequence. A
+good deal of charcoal is used for cooking,
+but we saw no coal being used in the district,
+even the railway up to Angora being largely
+dependent on wood.</p>
+
+<p>After a few months at the restaurant, the
+contractor began to put up prices and most
+of us demurred. This finally led to the
+majority going on strike and deciding to mess
+themselves, as we were allowed to by the
+rules. The old commandant, however, and
+the contractor, had no idea of accepting the
+alternative if they could possibly help it.
+Consequently, we were first forbidden to
+cook in the kitchens of our own houses, for<a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>
+fear we should set the chimneys and the
+houses on fire. To get over this, we made
+fireplaces in the back gardens or yards behind
+the houses. Other little pin-pricks of the
+same kind were tried, but we finally got our
+own way, and found that our mess bills were
+reduced to nearly a half what they had been
+before. We had a number of British orderlies
+with us, who did our cooking and waited on us.
+To start with, there was some difficulty in
+getting a separate room as a dining-room for
+each mess, but eventually we settled down
+and furnished on an economical plan, our
+carpenters making benches, tables, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The restaurant contractor was so disgusted
+at our strike that he closed down altogether
+for two or three days, thus throwing
+out into the cold the few who had remained
+faithful to him on any conditions rather than
+do their own catering. There was, somewhat
+naturally, a good deal of ill-feeling
+between the two parties in consequence,
+and it took time to die out. In the end,
+the restaurant supporters had to start a mess
+of their own and came into line with the rest
+of us.</p>
+
+<p>We were allowed a fair amount of liberty,
+although at the start things did not look
+promising, the old commandant telling us<a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>
+we should be only able to go one short walk
+a week. Actually we were allowed in the road
+for a hundred yards or so outside our houses
+and could go to the bazaar or Turkish bath
+any day by getting a sentry to go with us.</p>
+
+<p>The Ham&aacute;ms, or Turkish baths, of which
+there are a great many, are not the elaborately
+furnished places one sees at home,
+but consist of two vaulted chambers, supplied
+with vapour. Round the side are ledges
+on which one sits, and stone basins with a
+supply of hot and cold water. After being
+stewed in the hottest chamber for a quarter
+of an hour, one passes out to the outer room,
+where an aged attendant is generally ready
+to operate with buckets of cold water. Next
+one proceeds to the dressing-rooms and reclines
+comfortably swathed in towels, while
+Turkish coffee is brought round. After the
+first few months, sugar became so expensive
+that it was no longer provided, and the coffee
+seemed very poor in consequence. Altogether,
+in a place where one had plenty of
+time to spare, the Ham&aacute;m provided a very
+pleasant way of spending a morning.</p>
+
+<p>The Turks used to put up numbers of rules
+for our benefit. These were written out in
+the best English the interpreter could achieve,
+which was never very clear. As a rule, we<a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>
+did not pay very much attention to them,
+and they, on the other hand, never seemed
+to care either. The rule was on the board,
+and, if any officious officer was to come
+round from Constantinople, he could always
+be shown it, and assured it was strictly obeyed.</p>
+
+<p>On one occasion a notice was suddenly put
+up, informing us that all lights henceforth
+must be put out at 9.30 p.m. It was thought
+advisable to do so the first night; the second
+night, the time was about 9.45; and after
+that we continued to go to bed when we
+pleased, and were never bothered any more
+about it.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the tremendously high price of
+kerosine, Daylight Saving soon came into
+force, and saved us a great deal.</p>
+
+<p>The sentries, on the whole, were a very
+good-natured lot and would never have
+worried us with restrictions as far as they
+themselves were concerned. They were mostly
+old men who had served in previous wars and,
+until called up, were living on their own small
+farms. One of the best of them was "Johnnie
+Walker," a little man who had a most extraordinary
+stride and could walk any of us
+to a standstill. We always tried to get him
+when going for a long walk, knowing that from
+personal motives he would never stop us going<a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>
+a good distance. Another favourite was
+"Ginger," a very harmless old fellow with
+sandy whiskers. As one went past, he would
+lean over and whisper confidentially: "Ginger
+fennah?"&mdash;Is Ginger a bad fellow?
+Every now and then they went to their homes
+on leave and came back with a few pounds
+of butter or a bag of wheatmeal, which they
+sold to us without much difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival, the only weapons the guard
+possessed were ancient pinfire rifles, firing
+a huge lump of lead. Each man had exactly
+two rounds in his possession. Later on some
+rather younger men came, armed with captured
+Russian rifles.</p>
+
+<p>We soon managed to hire a field for football.
+It was very stony and by no means level,
+but, nevertheless, was a great acquisition.
+As a rule, each group of houses used it three
+days a week. To start with, we only had a
+Soccer case and no bladder. We stuffed
+the case with grass and played a very modified
+form of Rugger, where collaring was disallowed
+on account of the stones, and punting and
+place kicking forbidden in order to preserve
+the life of the ball. After some weeks we
+got some proper footballs from Constantinople,
+and others came eventually from home.
+We played matches against the other group<a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>
+of houses, Regulars <i>v.</i> Irregulars, and every
+other thing we could think of. Soccer Sixes
+caused much excitement and a local firm of
+bookmakers, who came into existence for the
+occasion, did a large business.</p>
+
+<p>We could always rely on getting out
+somewhere every day. During the early
+summer we had splendid walks two days
+a week over the hills in the mornings. These
+long walks did not suit everybody, and a
+gentle form of meandering had to be organized
+for the "slugs." On one celebrated
+occasion, we walked out about five miles,
+taking our lunch, and had a very cheery
+picnic, but this was never allowed again,
+and in July 1917 all long walks were suddenly
+stopped, and we were barely allowed
+outside the boundaries of the town.</p>
+
+<p>For news of the outer world, we were
+dependent upon the local telegrams, which
+the best Turkish scholars used to translate,
+and also upon the "Hilal," a German-run
+paper, printed in Constantinople. This paper,
+of which we used to receive the French Edition,
+had been started for propaganda purposes
+at the beginning of the war. The news
+was, naturally, very one-sided, but, reading
+between the lines, one could tell fairly well
+what was the position on the Western Front.<a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>
+In addition, we had maps, and could follow
+the places mentioned, when, as during the
+Somme offensive, the Germans, "according
+to our preconceived plan," took up a position
+some miles in rear of their last. A serial
+story which ran for some time in this paper
+was called "L'&eacute;vad&eacute; de Tsingtau," and gave
+the adventures of a German, who having
+escaped from Tsingtau after the Japanese
+had taken it, reached America, was caught
+while trying to cross to Germany, spent some
+time in Donnington Hall, but finally succeeded
+in escaping, and swam off from near
+Tilbury to a Dutch ship lying in the river,
+thus getting clear away. Whether true or not,
+it made a wonderful story.</p>
+
+<p>News carefully camouflaged in our letters
+from home invariably arrived safely; in fact,
+the Turks never troubled to censor anything
+in the letters we received. On the other
+hand, every now and then some officious
+creature in Constantinople would systematically
+cut up our long letters, which we were
+allowed to write twice a month, and only send
+on the first two and last two lines.</p>
+
+<p>There were always plenty of rumours
+amongst the Greek shopkeepers in the bazaar.
+For instance, we were told the British had
+taken Bagdad long before they did, and our<a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>
+troops in Palestine were always said to be
+within three or four marches of Aleppo; the
+Russians were just outside Sivas, and Trieste
+had been taken by the Italians. The Turks
+themselves never believed these stories, and,
+in fact, even when the armistice was signed,
+many of them in country districts had not
+heard that Bagdad was in our possession. They
+received no letters from their friends at the
+front, no casualty lists were published, and the
+only news that seemed to reach them by post
+was a few letters from Turks we had taken to
+Burma as prisoners, who seemed to be very
+happy and contented.</p>
+
+<p>The country people never showed any
+"hate" against us, but the authorities used
+to make this an excuse for curtailing our
+walks, saying how fanatical the village people
+were in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>Apart from football matches, we employed
+ourselves in various ways. There were soon
+two or three well-established firms of carpenters,
+who did a great deal of work and made
+a lot of furniture. Others took to cobbling,
+and had plenty to do to keep our boots in
+order. A good many studied various languages,
+but Turkish was not very popular, as
+no one expected ever to want it again when
+once they had left the country.<a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a></p>
+
+<p>We had quite a good library, and books
+came through without much trouble in parcels
+from home.</p>
+
+<p>A long series of lectures were held during
+the winter, every one who could do so lecturing
+to the rest of us. It is wonderful what a
+comprehensive programme can be formed
+when one is really put to it.</p>
+
+<p>Another intellectual effort was a debating
+society; but this did not have a very long life.</p>
+
+<p>Our greatest achievement was undoubtedly
+the band. This was started in the spring of
+1917, under the auspices of our new commandant,
+who was very keen about it. At
+first there were only two or three violins
+which had been discovered in the bazaar,
+then others were found, also some clarionets;
+drums and banjos were soon made, and,
+finally&mdash;greatest triumph of all&mdash;two 'cellos
+and a double bass were manufactured by our
+most progressive firm of carpenters. Altogether,
+the band numbered about sixteen. At
+the start they had no music, and Lieut. Parsons,
+R.F.A., who conducted, had to score the parts
+for a number of pieces, most of which were
+wonderfully successful. Later on, music came
+from home, and concerts were given twice
+a week.</p>
+
+<p>We even had a little dancing on one or two<a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>
+occasions, and one day the commandant
+brought two or three Greek and Armenian
+ladies. This was such a success that he
+became very excited and declared "Next
+veek plenty lady kom." Life seemed to be
+improving all round, but it was too good to
+last, and suddenly everything was stopped.
+The commandant got into hot water with the
+other Turkish authorities in the town, who
+had probably reported him behind his back
+to Constantinople. Our walks were suddenly
+curtailed and no long walks allowed. Had
+the little man been able to stand up for himself,
+things would have been much better,
+but he was much too scared to take a strong
+line, and a few days later departed for
+Eski-Chehir to take the place of the commandant
+there, who, in turn, was to come to
+Kastamuni.</p>
+
+<p>During the winter of 1916, prices began to
+rise rapidly in the bazaar and this went on
+all through 1917, until in 1918 all prisoners
+had great difficulty in getting food, even in
+the new camps, which were said to be better
+off in this respect than Kastamuni.</p>
+
+<p>When we first arrived, there was a small
+amount of silver money in circulation, the
+smallest notes which were just being introduced
+being 20 and 5 piastres&mdash;3s. 4d. and<a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a>
+10d. in ordinary times. Not long afterwards,
+these were followed by 2&frac12; and
+1 piastre notes, which carried pictures of
+the Dardanelles and Kut on the back,
+Kut being quite unrecognizable. For smaller
+change recourse had to be taken to stamps
+and by midsummer of 1917 no coins of any
+sort were to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>Money came through to us in various ways,
+but the best exchange we could get was by
+cashing undated cheques with the Greek
+shopkeepers in the town, who gave us 160
+piastres to the pound, whereas through the
+Dutch Embassy we could only get 140, the
+exchange rate before the war being 112.
+The shopkeepers would not be able to cash
+these cheques till the end of the war, and it
+says something for the reputation of a British
+cheque that they would accept them on such
+conditions. They undoubtedly regarded such
+cheques as being a very much safer asset than
+the Turkish paper money, which was the only
+alternative, and, at the end of the war, would
+very likely be suddenly repudiated by a
+paternal Government.</p>
+
+<p>We were paid by the Turks at the rate they
+pay their own officers, the equivalent of this
+being deducted from our accounts by the
+War Office.<a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a></p>
+
+<p>On the way up from Kut we were given one
+month's pay in Bagdad, which for senior
+officers was on a comparatively generous
+scale. However, on reaching Kastamuni,
+these unfortunates were told that the Bagdad
+rates were quite wrong, and they were
+now to pay up the difference; this took
+several months in many cases.</p>
+
+<p>Happily for us, soon after our arrival, the
+Red Cross came to our assistance, working
+through the American Embassy in Constantinople.
+They gave us &pound;T.3 a month,
+which, with a subaltern's allowance of &pound;T.7
+as pay from the Turks, made it just possible
+to carry on.</p>
+
+<p>As food got more expensive, the Red Cross
+increased their allowance to &pound;T.5 a month,
+and had finally to increase this still further.</p>
+
+<p>In May and June 1917, some additional
+orderlies arrived; these men had been in
+other camps up till then, and were not all
+Kut prisoners, some having been taken in the
+Dardanelles and others in Egypt. They
+brought dreadful stories of the treatment
+of the troops during the first few months, and
+it became clear that at least two-thirds of
+the Kut garrison were already dead. The
+last news they had heard was that all fit
+prisoners were being sent back to the North<a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>
+of Syria to work on the railway there. As
+conditions were very bad in that district
+when we came through in 1916, no one can
+say what those who returned a year later
+had to go through. This area was considered
+as one under military operations, and was,
+therefore, excluded from the agreement finally
+come to by which the Dutch Embassy in
+Constantinople was to inspect the various
+camps.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately, some of these new orderlies
+contracted typhus on their way to Kastamuni,
+at one of the dirty halting-places,
+and three succumbed. They were buried
+beside three officers whom we had already
+laid to rest, in a little cemetery at the top of
+the hill overlooking the town, near the slope
+where the Greeks and Armenians are buried.
+Wooden crosses were at first put up over the
+graves, but these were at once torn up and
+stolen by the Turkish peasants. We then
+obtained heavy slabs of stone, on which a
+cross was carved and the names cut. A wall
+was built round the little spot, a number of
+officers going up every morning and working
+hard until it was completed. Now that no
+British prisoners are left in Kastamuni, one
+hopes that the little cemetery will be allowed
+to remain undisturbed on the bare hillside.<a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a></p>
+
+<p>During the summer of 1917, a number of
+officers were in favour of getting the Turks
+to move the camp from Kastamuni to some
+place nearer to the railway, as it was thought
+that it would then be easier to obtain supplies
+of wood and fuel during the coming winter.
+It is doubtful if this would have been the case,
+but an official request was sent to Constantinople.
+Towards the end of July 1917, our
+liberties were considerably curtailed for no
+apparent reason, and after the escape of our
+party, on August 8th, very severe restrictions
+were imposed.</p>
+
+<p>Nowhere in Turkey could life in 1917-18
+be considered amenable, since food was so short
+in all districts. This, combined with the
+depreciation in the paper money, kept prices
+very high and made messing a great problem;
+if parcels could have got through more quickly
+from home it would have made a big difference.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of September, the first batch
+of officers was moved to Changri, and the
+remainder followed early in October. At
+Changri accommodation was provided in a
+dirty Turkish barrack, which, besides needing
+very extensive cleansing, required much glass
+in the windows. Shortly afterwards, two-thirds
+of the officers left for Gedos, a small
+place about a hundred miles east of Smyrna,<a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>
+where they were placed on parole, and given
+liberty to go where they pleased unguarded.
+The remainder stayed for some months at
+Changri, where they had managed to make
+themselves fairly comfortable, although only
+allowed to go out to a neighbouring field
+for exercise. Later, however, they were sent
+to Yozgad, the camp to which the first half
+of the Kut officers had originally been sent.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">ESCAPE FROM KASTAMUNI</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>R</span></span><span class="firstwords">eturning</span>
+to events in Kastamuni,
+in November 1916 a little more housing
+accommodation had become available
+for us, and as a result I found myself
+sharing a good room with Keeling, a lieutenant
+in the I.A.R.O. One evening, soon afterwards,
+I asked him if he would make an effort
+with me to reach the Russians if, as we hoped,
+they should advance further west from their
+lines, which were then running due south to
+Erzinjan from a point a little way west of
+Trebizond. He replied that he had long been
+thinking of it, and had made a start towards
+preparing for such an effort by carefully
+preserving two 1 lb. tins of chocolate which he
+had received from home!</p>
+
+<p>At that time such a journey meant a distance
+of 300 miles across country from Kastamuni,
+and we considered it quite hopeless in
+view of the mountainous country to be passed.
+It was also obvious that any attempt to get<a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>
+a long distance across country would stand a
+much better chance if made in the summer
+time. It would be impossible to carry enough
+food and we should have to fall back on
+such crops, fruit and vegetables as might
+be ripe and obtainable. We thought April or
+May would be the earliest possible month.
+Another alternative was to get to the coast,
+only 38 miles as the crow flies, and then to
+steal a boat. This necessitated having one
+man in the party who knew how to sail a
+boat, and added a big risk in the very fact
+of having to launch a boat secretly and get
+away from a coast which as far as we could
+hear was well guarded.</p>
+
+<p>The general opinion was that it was quite
+hopeless to try to get away. This belief was
+shared by the senior officers and, under pressure
+from the Turkish commandant, most
+people gave their parole not to try to escape
+under present conditions. About ten of us
+refused: some because they believed such an
+act was definitely against Army rules, and the
+others, like ourselves, because they hoped for
+a chance to get away and considered that they
+were justified in taking such a chance if it
+seemed to offer any possibility of success.
+Pressure was brought to bear upon us by the
+Turks to change our views; but we remained<a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>
+firm. We were told our liberty would be curtailed;
+we would be put in a separate house
+by ourselves; while the others were to get additional
+liberty. What actually happened was
+exactly nothing, and we all went on precisely
+as before. It appeared to be merely a dodge
+on the part of the Turks to save themselves
+trouble and responsibility. From time to
+time, owing to various good reasons, many
+others withdrew their parole, and by the
+date we departed&mdash;August 8th, 1917&mdash;nearly
+half the officers must have followed suit.</p>
+
+<p>In the meanwhile K. and I had been
+trying to collect information and had been
+sounding a few other officers. It was very
+hard to get anything which was at all trustworthy:
+some reports said there were no boats
+on the coast, others that a boat could probably
+be obtained. One Greek told us that it
+would be impossible to get through to the
+Russian lines, as the people east of Samsun
+were so wild and savage. This man was
+making plenty of money out of us in his
+professional capacity, and evidently did not
+wish any disturbances between us and the
+Turks to imperil his tranquillity and source of
+gain. We were not therefore much influenced
+by his fears.</p>
+
+<p>Maps were a necessity, and the only one we<a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>
+had was on a scale of 32 miles to an
+inch. I made tracings of this, so as to have
+duplicate copies, but the scale was too small
+to be of much use beyond showing the general
+trend of the country. I also succeeded in
+making a compass of a rough description by
+fixing a dial to some magnetic needles and
+suspending it with a thread. Fortunately,
+however, a little later, we discovered a shop
+in the town where we could buy some cheap
+but tolerably serviceable compasses, and
+secured several of these, taking care that the
+sentry with us did not see what we were
+buying. The best map we had seen was
+hanging up in our commandant's office.
+This was a German one and to a scale of about
+seven miles to an inch. No opportunity
+occurred, unfortunately, of being able to
+copy it. It showed us, however, a large
+number of farms and villages sprinkled over
+the countryside. The Russians had advanced
+no further, and the only plan at all feasible
+seemed to be to get a boat on the coast and
+make for Trebizond.</p>
+
+<p>As the summer began our discussions took
+a more practical shape, and we got in touch
+with people who were in a position to know
+something trustworthy. One of those we
+approached was an interned Ally. Under<a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>
+various pretexts I succeeded in getting a sentry
+to come with me to his house, which was strictly
+against the rules, saying I wanted to buy a
+guitar. On arrival he produced the guitar,
+and while pretending to try it we discussed
+the possibility of getting away. He considered
+that it would be possible to get a boat
+on the coast at Ineboli and suggested sending
+someone he could trust to find out how things
+stood and if possible to make arrangements.
+Conversation was not too easy, as his knowledge
+of English was very sketchy and I knew
+nothing of his language; also the sentry was
+present, so that everything had to appear
+to be about the guitar and no names of places
+mentioned aloud. A little money and cigarettes
+to the sentry ensured his not talking
+later about where we had been, and I endeavoured
+to get the same man on the next occasion.
+One day at this house I met a fellow
+countryman who as a civilian had been interned
+at Constantinople. For some reason
+the Turks had become more suspicious and
+he had been packed off to Kastamuni. He
+gave me some useful information about the
+state of the country further east, but was not
+at all hopeful of our getting through. I did
+not see him again, as he was naturally very
+loth to be seen speaking to any of us, as that<a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>
+would mean his being sent out to live in one
+of the small villages away from every vestige
+of civilization. Meanwhile K. had been interviewing
+one or two people whom we thought
+might be trusted. For this purpose an
+appointment was generally made at the
+Ham&aacute;m, or Turkish bath. We were allowed
+to go to these baths, of which there were a
+large number in the town, whenever we liked,
+and, as the sentry always stayed in the
+entrance hall, one could speak freely to anyone
+inside. On the whole these Allies recommended
+us not to make any attempt, one
+saying that had it been possible he himself
+would of course have gone long ago. Actually,
+they were afraid of trying anything of
+the sort or being in any way implicated by us.</p>
+
+<p>We discussed the proposal of my friend
+with some of the others and decided to try
+his suggestion. Accordingly ten of us collected
+about 50 liras&mdash;one lira equals 18s. 6d.
+nominally&mdash;which was handed to him. He
+in turn was to arrange with a Greek who was
+going to the coast and promised to bring
+back the information we needed. After some
+delay he finally departed, and, as we had
+feared, never turned up again.</p>
+
+<p>Some of those who had subscribed considered
+any attempt without previously obtaining a<a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a>
+boat to be hopeless and, when the Greek never
+returned, the number who were keen to go was
+reduced to half a dozen. Much discussion
+followed as to the size of the party, whether
+there should be two parties and who should go
+in which, and what routes should be followed.
+Eventually only four of us prepared to start,
+the others promising to give us all the support
+they could. Our party now consisted of
+Captains R.&nbsp;J.&nbsp;Tipton, R.F.C., R.&nbsp;T.&nbsp;Sweet,
+2/7th Ghurkas, Lieut. E.&nbsp;H.&nbsp;Keeling, and
+myself, both of the I.A.R.O. "Tip" had
+been taken in Egypt, while we three had
+all been in Kut.</p>
+
+<p>There were two possible ways of getting out
+of the camp, or rather away from the street in
+which we lived, and either seemed fairly easy
+to arrange.</p>
+
+<p>In order to get our provisions ready, we had
+to take one or two of the British orderlies
+into our confidence. We decided after much
+scheming that we would take 20 lb. of food
+each, consisting of 11 lb. of biscuits, 2&frac12; lb.
+of cheese, 2&frac12; lb. of smoked meat, 1&frac34; lb. of
+chocolate, 1&frac12; lb. of Horlick's Malted Milk
+and the remainder of soup squares, cocoa and
+sugar, with a box of tea tabloids. The biscuits
+were made of good white flour, for which we
+had at that time to pay an exorbitant price as<a name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a>
+it was almost unobtainable; butter and sugar,
+which were also appallingly expensive, were
+added. Some were made with raisins, all
+being baked as hard as possible to save weight.
+These, with raisins, proved much the most
+popular subsequently. Our mess cook,
+Gunner Prosser, R.F.A., made most of the
+biscuits and was very keen to do all he could to
+help us. In order to keep things dark we
+told as few people as possible, but several
+people must have suspected us before we
+finally took our departure. The all-important
+question of the food to be carried caused much
+discussion before the final schedule was drawn
+up. Some were for taking one solid lump of
+duff instead of biscuits, but the latter won
+the day as containing less water and being
+therefore of more value weight for weight.
+K. had a profound belief in Horlick's Malted
+Milk, which was fully justified by our subsequent
+experience. For some days prior
+to our departure a notice on the board, which
+was used by people who wished to exchange
+contents of parcels from home, informed all
+and sundry that Lt. K. could offer a very
+large variety of articles, ranging from honey
+to socks, in exchange for Malted Milk. This
+resulted in most of our supply being obtained.
+The question of meat was difficult, as tinned<a name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a>
+stuff received from home was too heavy and
+there was nothing to be got in the bazaar but
+smoked mutton, which was not very appetizing.
+Eventually, we decided on the mutton.
+We had a good many soup squares of different
+kinds, but on the journey we wished we had
+had more cocoa instead. We decided to pack
+as much food as possible in small bags, for
+which some puggaree cloth came in handy,
+and an old pillow-case made a good receptacle
+for the biscuits. K. spent a long time sewing
+up small bags and in generally thinking out
+and preparing for all eventualities.</p>
+
+<p>In the event of our being forced to buy
+food, we had decided that our only chance
+was to pretend we were Germans, since the
+country people, while seeing we were not
+Turks, would be too ignorant to know any
+difference between Briton and Hun. This
+also fell in well with our plan of going in uniform.
+To make things more secure we forged
+a passport. This was written out by Captain
+Rich, 120th Infantry, who knew Turkish
+fairly well, and purported to be a letter from
+the Army commander at Angora to Hauptmann
+Hermann von Below, who, with three
+German orderlies, was said to be travelling
+on a surveying expedition. It was requested
+that the utmost facilities should be given him<a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a>
+in his work. The name of the Army commander
+we had managed to obtain correctly,
+and this was signed in a different hand and
+ink. A seal was also appended, as is usual
+in all Turkish documents, and suitably smudged
+so that the name which did not correspond
+with the signature might be illegible.</p>
+
+<p>A volume dealing with woodcraft was perused
+by K., who discovered that the ordinary
+type of rock lichen was a highly nutritious
+food and, also, that nearly all forms of toad-stool
+were equally useful. We hoped not to
+need such emergency rations and, fortunately,
+never got to that stage in our subsequent
+adventures. Over and above the 20 lb. of
+food we estimated that each one would need
+to carry 10 lb. more in kit and equipment,
+the former comprising a spare pair of socks,
+a "woolly" and vest or something similar,
+and the latter a haversack and waterbottle,
+matches, knife, spoon and soap. In addition
+we carried a sail, about 40 feet of light rope,
+a light axe head, two canteens, a safety razor,
+housewife, nails and thread for repairing
+boots, maps, and compasses. These were
+divided up into equal weights between the
+four of us. The sail was rather a work of art.
+It was made in two pieces from a bed sheet,
+the lining of two Wolseley valises and a couple<a name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a>
+of towels. With the help of a sailor friend,
+Lieut. Nicholson, R.N.R., we roped it all
+round. It measured about 10 ft. by 7 ft.
+6 in., and weighed complete about 7 lb.
+The idea was that, having discovered a
+boat and if need be hewn down a small tree
+for a mast, we would paddle off from the coast
+and put up the sail as quickly as possible after
+sewing the two pieces together. Tip was to
+be our navigator, as he had done a good deal
+of sailing in pre-war days.</p>
+
+<p>As Sweet was the only man with a rucksack,
+we three had to make our own. This meant a
+good deal of laborious sewing. My own was
+laid on the foundation of a khaki drill bag
+originally received in Mesopotamia with gifts
+from the ladies of Bombay; this was reinforced
+with an old pair of braces and the
+necessary webbing sewn on. It proved a
+most useful article and stood the journey
+wonderfully well, although getting somewhat
+soiled in appearance.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">THE FIRST NIGHT</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>I</span></span><span class="firstwords">t</span>
+was not the easiest thing in the world
+to hold our meetings, accomplish our
+sewing and complete the sail without
+being interrupted by other people or giving
+the show away. Our excuses for keeping
+many people out of our room must have seemed
+rather thin on many occasions, and certainly
+gave rise to suspicion in one quarter. One
+day the interpreter Napoleon came to the
+door, but luckily suspected nothing and departed.
+Napoleon had been of great service
+to us after the wretched Greek interpreter
+we had had on our arrival, and we hoped our
+departure would not get him into trouble.
+We instructed our orderly to endeavour to
+put Napoleon off the track the morning after
+we had gone. The rule was that we had to
+report to him at ten in the morning as well
+as at night. Very often people omitted to do
+so, but in that case he generally wandered
+round quietly until he had seen they were<a name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a>
+still present. Our confederates amongst the
+officers promised to say we had all gone up the
+hill to work at the cemetery to which a party
+went every day, to complete the building of
+a wall round the graves of the three officers
+and three men whom we had there laid to
+rest.</p>
+
+<p>In addition, we left a letter supposed to be
+written by Sweet to me, talking of our proposed
+route and saying that he agreed we had
+much better go towards Sivas, and giving
+a number of villages <i>en route</i>. This was supposed
+to be destroyed, and was to be found
+by accident by our orderly in a crumpled
+condition when and not until our escape was
+fully realized by the Turks. Our exit was
+to be made from a side door into an alley leading
+off the main street. This door was nailed
+up, but, like so many things in Turkey, it
+was done in a very slip-shod fashion with two
+boards having only two nails through each.
+To reach the door, entrance had to be obtained
+to a back garden, and this meant
+passing through another door which was
+padlocked every evening. Investigation
+proved that, though the padlock seemed
+sound, the staple might very easily be withdrawn
+and replaced afterwards. Six officers
+helped us enormously on the night we actually<a name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>
+started. They were Major Corbett and
+Captain Raynor, 48th Pioneers, Captain
+R.&nbsp;Lowndes, R.G.A., Lieuts. Dooley, Cawley-Smith
+and Galloway, all I.A.R.O. Three
+opened the doors while another drowned
+their efforts by doing some violent bed repairing
+in a front room, this necessitating much
+hammering. The others kept a look-out
+on the sentries in the road or engaged them
+in amiable conversation in their best Turkish.</p>
+
+<p>It had been difficult to decide which night
+to start. We had no tables giving the time
+the moon would rise and wanted to arrange
+to have a good hour of darkness after getting
+out. Finally we decided to start on Wednesday
+night, August 8th, at 10 p.m. Sweet,
+who lived in the other group of houses,
+arranged to come to dinner in our mess, being
+invited by Captain Martin, I.M.S., who not
+only assisted us in selecting our food but
+placed his room at our disposal for storing
+our kit and assembling in just before starting.
+Our plan was to wait behind the door in the
+alley until our mess cook, Prosser, should come
+and tap on the further side to show that all
+was clear. This man was in the habit of
+often going out after dark into the town disguised
+in an old coat, a fez, and a sham beard
+which he had himself made out of goat-skins.<a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>
+His usual practice was to put the fez and beard
+on in the road and walk straight up past the
+sentries. On the night in question he got
+out in some such way and reconnoitred the
+route we should have to take to get out of
+the town on to the hill. Luckily we were on
+the edge of the town and a climb of two or
+three hundred yards through houses would
+take us out on to a Mohammedan graveyard
+on the hillside. As we were waiting silently
+in the dark behind the door, somebody gave
+a kerosine tin a kick, and the resulting clatter
+seemed bound to bring some one down upon
+us. However, nothing happened; but a
+moment or two later we heard a heavy tread
+going slowly up the alley.</p>
+
+<p>Our friends, watching, reported that this
+was the sergeant of the guard and we began
+to feel anxious. After another minute a tap
+came on the door. Our orderly had seen the
+sergeant safely into a small mosque round the
+corner, and everything was clear. We hurried
+out in single file, endeavouring to be quite
+silent but seeming to make an awful noise.
+I was wearing a pair of rope sole shoes and
+carrying my boots while the others had put
+old socks over their boots. In spite of our
+anything but noiseless departure we were not
+noticed. We scrambled up the hill and five<a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a>
+minutes later were under cover in the graveyard.
+Here we put our rucksacks and coats
+on properly and prepared for an all-night trek.
+In order to look less like officers and more
+like local scallywags we had turned our coats
+inside out and also carried our packs in a
+blanket over one shoulder. We had decided
+to wear old khaki, so as to be able to prove
+we were really British if necessary in case of
+accidents or bad luck. After taking us a little
+further, our orderly friend shook hands with
+us all round, and with a quiet word of farewell
+and thanks for his invaluable assistance
+we set off on our adventure.</p>
+
+<p>We had to make a detour round the north of
+the town across the main valley to get out to
+the hills on the east. It was a clear, starry
+night, but even so it was extraordinarily
+difficult to recognize the hillsides which we
+knew quite well by daylight. Hardly had
+we gone a quarter of a mile before a dog began
+to bark on the main road a little way off.
+Later on, we did not pay much attention to
+dogs, as we generally started at least one
+every night by walking near a village or too
+close to houses; but this animal, being the
+first and so near to the town, was anything
+but pleasant to listen to. We scrambled
+down a steep bank across a nullah and up a<a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a>
+gully running into a hill which we had to
+climb. The main nullah we had just crossed
+ran down towards the road passing the magazine,
+where by day there was always a guard.
+However, the dog soon ceased his complaint
+and quietness reigned. We were already
+beginning to feel the weights of our packs and,
+as the night was warm and our direction led
+up the stony, pathless side of a steep hill,
+we soon had to call a halt. In fact, although
+we did not admit it to each other, these
+moments were really almost the worst of
+our whole trip and each secretly thought
+what an idiot he had been ever to start.
+Having started, however, there was nothing
+for it but to continue and after a few minutes'
+rest we trudged on. A little further brought
+us out on the top, where we were annoyed
+to find that the moon was already well up,
+whereas we had reckoned on at least another
+half-hour of darkness.</p>
+
+<p>During the last few days, we had carefully
+timed the moon's rising, and endeavoured to
+foretell the time for the night of our venture
+from comparisons with last year's almanac,
+which was all we had to go upon.</p>
+
+<p>On the top of the hill, we could just make
+out the big square of the Turkish barracks
+lying down in the valley, a building which we<a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>
+had passed almost every day during the last
+year on our way to the football ground or on
+walks. Sweet wanted to give it a much wider
+berth than I had intended, and in consequence
+we were longer in getting down to the Ineboli
+road which had to be crossed. What was our
+horror when we did approach it to hear the
+creaking of country carts coming up towards
+the town. They seemed to be nearly opposite
+to us and, as there was little cover and the
+moon bright, the only thing to do was to lie
+down in the ditch where we were and hope
+the carts would pass. We waited some time,
+but yet more carts seemed to be approaching
+and the drivers of others had halted almost
+opposite to us. There was nothing for it
+but to turn back and try again lower down the
+road. After creeping back a little way on
+all fours, we made a circle and came out
+into an open field, heading once more for the
+road. Here we were dismayed to hear yet
+another cart coming. There was no cover
+this time, not even a ditch, so we had to make
+a dash for it. This succeeded, and we were
+across the road and some little distance into
+a field of high crops on the far side before the
+carts passed. These carts were evidently
+coming into the town for the following day's
+market, but we had not counted on meeting<a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a>
+any at all. We were now in the centre of the
+valley, and after crossing the stream made our
+way over some more fields to the Sinope road
+which we crossed without further adventure.</p>
+
+<p>We had now reached open country, and after
+another half-mile rested again. We were all
+feeling a bit done up and thought we had taken
+too much kit. On starting again, we found
+that so far we were on the right track, but
+from now onwards we were going on a line we
+had not been on before even by day, and we
+regretted afterwards we had not for this first
+night kept straight on down the main Sinope
+road, along which we could have made good
+going, although it did not lead due east, which
+was the direction we had planned. There were
+guard houses at intervals on this road, but I
+knew it for the first ten miles, having driven
+out with my colonel once when he was allowed
+a carriage to go fishing, this being a special
+favour which ceased to be granted as soon as
+the commandant of the town got to hear
+about it.</p>
+
+<p>After several miles of up and down going,
+we reached the first river we had to cross.
+Along each side were irrigated maize-fields,
+but, fortunately, we managed to get through
+these and over the stream without coming
+to any houses or dogs, although there were<a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a>
+villages and farms quite close. Another ascent
+met us on the further side and we plodded
+slowly on. The country was mostly open
+pasture and plough-land and there were few
+trees except those beside the streams in the
+valleys. Eventually, we got to the top of the
+ridge and a little later found ourselves overlooking
+another deep valley with a stream
+running a thousand feet below us. After
+a steep scramble down, we reached the water
+and called a halt. A tin of tongue presented
+by some one at the last minute was opened
+and eagerly consumed. It was now about
+3 a.m. and we had not much more than
+another hour and a half to two hours before
+daylight, when we had to be safely under
+cover. On leaving the stream, we found we
+were not far from a hamlet, and roused the
+attentions of another dog. However, we
+plodded on once more. We could now see
+woods in the distance but, before reaching
+them, had some difficult country to cross.
+Tip and K. were feeling very done up and,
+as there were signs of dawn and other dogs
+taking up the hue and cry, we began to feel a
+bit anxious. These dogs seemed to be approaching
+from a village; but we just managed
+to get away from them, although it
+seemed that they must rouse the whole<a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a>
+countryside. During our next halt of a few
+minutes, we heard a cart coming along from
+the village, and, evidently, the peasants were
+already starting on the toil of another long
+harvest day, even though it was only just
+beginning to get light. Sweet and I had
+gone on, and on looking back could see no
+signs of the others. We went back a little
+way and luckily found them. We had just
+scrambled up a steep hill and were all fairly
+well done up. A little further took us to a
+pine wood, where we decided to lie up for
+the day. We lay just inside while the cart
+we had heard approached and passed on up
+the track we had just left. Then we turned
+and went into the wood, only to find, however,
+that sheep tracks ran everywhere and
+that the wood itself only extended two hundred
+yards to the top of the ridge where there
+were open fields&mdash;also, what was worse still,
+no part of the wood was really thick or offered
+good cover. Still, now it was too late to go
+on even if we had had the energy, and the
+only thing to do was to stay and make the
+best of it and trust to luck. We looked to
+each side, but the sheep-tracks were almost
+as thick in all directions. This meant that
+at any time, but particularly in the evening,
+we might expect a flock to come along and<a name="Page_125" id="Page_125"></a>
+that would also mean a man or a boy and a
+dog.</p>
+
+<p>It was, indeed, fortunate for our peace of
+mind during this first day that we did not
+know how soon our departure had been discovered.
+Actually, this was found out within
+two hours of our leaving, Sweet's absence
+being first ascertained by Sherif Bey, who
+simply snorted with rage and fury. What
+had happened was that our orderly was very
+nearly caught while trying to return to his
+quarters: he had to run for it, and in so
+doing lost one of his shoes. He got in safely,
+however, and had at once to destroy the other
+shoe. A few minutes later the Turkish
+guard came round, searching for the odd
+shoe, and listened carefully to the breathing
+and heart-beats of every orderly to see which
+one had been running. Luckily, however,
+our friend Prosser had had just long enough
+to compose himself in bed and was not
+detected.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">ON THE HILLS</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>W</span></span><span class="firstwords">e</span>
+made a breakfast from condensed
+milk and a small ration of biscuit
+and some cheese. We dared not
+make a fire, as people were working on the
+crops not very far away. After this we took
+it in turns to keep watch at the top edge of
+the wood. From this point a fine view could
+be had across the ridges back towards Kastamuni,
+although the town itself was hidden
+in the valley. One track was clearly visible
+and it was along this we expected to see signs
+of pursuit, if any; but there was nothing
+to be seen. The morning was perfect, and the
+country spread away in the sunshine back
+towards our old haunts. We appeared to
+have made at the very least ten miles from
+Kastamuni as the crow flies, but actually
+had marched much further owing to the detour
+round the town and our cross-country up
+and down route since. Towards the east more
+and higher hills could be seen, but we had to<a name="Page_127" id="Page_127"></a>
+be careful of reconnoitring, as there were
+flocks of sheep on the slopes not far away.
+All of us had sundry adjustments to make in
+our kit, which we felt we must lighten to
+enable us to make better going. My own
+costume consisted of an old and thin British
+warm over either a thin shirt or vest with
+old riding breeches and puttees. The others
+had regulation tunics, and Sweet was highly
+respectable, his uniform being nearly new.
+In the event of our posing as Germans we
+decided he must be the Herr Hauptmann,
+as in addition to his better clothes he knew
+more Turkish than the rest of us.</p>
+
+<a name="journey"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/journey_map_small.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="425">
+<p class="caption">MAP (SLIGHTLY REDUCED) USED ON JOURNEY TO BLACK SEA<br><i>(From Sir Henry Sykes "History of Persia")</i></p>
+<p class="center"><a href="images/journey_map.jpg">Larger Version of Map</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>I set about a ruthless lightening of my coat
+by ripping out the lining, cutting off the turned-back
+cuffs and all other small portions that
+could be spared. We found it difficult to
+sleep, but felt good for another effort as soon
+as it began to get dark. About three o'clock,
+we relinquished our observation post, as all
+seemed quiet, and made another meal. Hardly
+had we finished before a dog appeared at the
+edge of the wood, and started barking as
+only Turkish dogs seem able to. A few
+moments later the expected boy also turned
+up and stared down upon us after quieting
+the dog. We thought this meant the village
+being roused at once, and deputed Sweet to<a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a>
+go and spin a big yarn of some sort to the
+boy. He had scarcely got up before the boy
+vanished. The only thing to do now was to
+pack up and be off at once. This did not
+take long, as we had purposely remained
+ready to move at short notice. I abandoned
+in a bush my rope sole shoes which I had
+carried so far, and did not regret it, as they
+were some weight and very slippery to walk
+in. After creeping along, just inside the wood
+at the top of the slope, for a short distance,
+we found we were getting near a farm and
+could not go further before dark. We could
+not see the boy, but one or two sheep-dogs
+were visible not far off and matters did not
+look at all hopeful. However, no hue and
+cry followed, and very likely the boy had been
+as frightened of us as we of him, or he may
+have thought we were merely out from Kastamuni
+for a walk&mdash;although we had never
+been nearly so far before.</p>
+
+<p>After waiting an hour at the edge of the
+wood, we saw the sheep approaching and knew
+they must be returning towards the farm. We
+got down the slope back into the wood and as
+much as possible off their line. There was a
+little more cover here, but still it was rather
+thin, and we could easily have been spotted
+by anyone looking for us. By and by the<a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a>
+sheep trooped past, but no dog came near
+us and once more we breathed freely. To
+improve our prospects, it now began to cloud
+over and we had some rain. A dark cloudy
+night for cross-country tramping was anything
+but what we required; fortunately,
+it cleared later on, although even then it was
+black enough until the moon got up. Before
+starting again, the question of weight of kit
+had to be tackled and, although loath to part
+with any of our food, we decided to discard
+about two to three pounds each. For this
+sacrifice most of our cheese and meat was
+condemned. It seemed likely that the former
+would not remain good for very long, so that
+it was not much loss.</p>
+
+<p>We decided to make a start before it got
+dark, and halt for food when we reached the
+river which we judged must run in the deep
+valley we were about to enter. Accordingly,
+we left the wood at 7.30 and set off across the
+corn-fields. A very steep and stony descent
+followed, and by the time we struck a road
+along the valley it was quite dark. We
+followed this road a short distance until we
+saw a light in a house a little way ahead.
+We then turned off and went straight down
+to the stream, where we proceeded to drink
+at length and then bathe. During this<a name="Page_130" id="Page_130"></a>
+bathe in the dark, I lost my soap, which was
+a great calamity, and Tip his knife. We
+dared not strike a light and had to be content to
+go on without. After a light meal, we went
+on up-stream. There appeared to be a ceremony
+of some sort going on at the house with
+a light, as there was a beating of drums.
+We crossed the stream a little higher up,
+taking off our boots and socks for the purpose.
+Luckily on the other bank we struck a track
+leading up the further side of the valley, which
+was very steep at this point. After climbing
+slowly up through brushwood in the dark for
+an hour, we came to more open country.
+Here there were farms, but we managed to
+avoid them successfully. The night had
+cleared sufficiently for us to see the stars,
+and we were steering a course about due east.
+A little further on, we got into a thick copse
+and had great difficulty in finding any track.
+Eventually, we emerged on to a road running
+along the ridge beyond which lay the next
+valley. After a short halt, we got under way
+once more and made a good distance down the
+road and along a path we found running down
+to the next valley.</p>
+
+<p>We had to pass close through a farm and
+several houses, but luckily there were no dogs.
+After reaching the next stream and ascending<a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a>
+it some way, we crossed over and found ourselves
+in a maize-field. We gathered some
+cobs, which were not yet ripe but would do to
+cook. A few yards further we saw a light in
+what appeared to be a sheep-pen. This we
+found was the usual custom in the country.
+All flocks are collected near the farm at night
+and a shepherd with a big resin torch sits up
+on guard. It was now just beginning to get
+light in the east, so we turned up the hill,
+and after a long and tiring climb found a
+tolerably safe hiding-place in a pine wood,
+<a name="tn_png_145"></a><!--TN: "Poor" changed to "poor"-->poor K. was very done up and the rest of us
+not much better, except Sweet, who, physically,
+was the toughest of us all. For nine
+hours we had been on the move, but we could
+not have done more than eight miles in a
+straight line&mdash;though at the time we thought
+it was much more. We lay down, and
+got two or three hours' sleep before preparing
+our next meal. We decided we
+would risk making a fire, and after hunting
+about for the most concealed spot boiled
+water in our canteens and made cocoa.
+This with a ration of biscuit formed our meal;
+in addition, we used to allow ourselves a very
+small bit of chocolate and a little Horlick's
+milk. The latter by this time had coagulated
+into one sticky lump, necessitating hard work<a name="Page_132" id="Page_132"></a>
+with the point of a knife before a fragment
+could be broken off. Luckily, the fire burned
+without much smoke, and what little there
+was we endeavoured to mitigate by fanning
+it in different directions. Not long after
+breakfast, we heard two horsemen trotting
+along a road through the wood and apparently
+quite close. We thought they were probably
+gendarmes looking for us; but they passed
+on and did not pause to make investigations
+in our neighbourhood. Another visitor also
+arrived, this being a man who was chopping
+wood, and worked round our knoll for some
+distance, but never came within sight. Nothing
+further happened, and we spent a quiet
+day under the trees. The weather was perfect,
+and had we had a little more to eat we
+should have enjoyed it immensely. At five
+o'clock we made a stew of the maize with a
+little Oxo; and an hour later, after clearing
+up all traces of our activities, set off eastwards
+through the wood.</p>
+
+<p>We soon reached the edge of the wood, and
+found ourselves looking southwards across
+a valley to a high range of hills. On the
+lower slopes were several villages; but it was
+doubtful if people could see us, especially as
+our khaki was an excellent camouflage for
+this country: in fact, this had been a great<a name="Page_133" id="Page_133"></a>
+recommendation to the proposal for marching
+in uniform. However, we endeavoured to
+keep out of sight; and after travelling across
+the high ground for a mile reached a spot
+whence we could see the country eastwards
+and choose out our route for the coming night.
+The main valley had turned somewhat, and
+now ran eastwards through a rocky gorge
+which opened out beyond to a much greater
+width. This seemed to be our best line, and
+we thought there would surely be a track
+leading up the valley along the stream.
+At all events, our water was finished, and it
+was urgent to fill up our bottles again as soon
+as we could reach the river. We set off
+accordingly, but had not gone far before
+some one reported a man coming up the road;
+we hid for some time, and when all was clear
+went on again, only to find we were descending
+to a field where women were still working,
+getting in the harvest. This necessitated
+another wait; but as darkness was approaching
+the women soon left the field. In order
+to help out our scanty stock of food and make
+it go as far as possible, we were always on
+the look-out for any food we could pick up
+in the fields, and decided to take toll of this
+corn-field. The wheat was ripe and in a few
+minutes we all had a good pocketful, meaning<a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a>
+to make a really substantial meal of wheat
+porridge next morning. By the time we
+reached a path near the bottom of the valley
+it was quite dark. This track seemed to lead
+downwards towards the river, and we followed
+it, expecting to get to the water any minute,
+but by and by it began to ascend again and
+then to get rougher and harder to find.
+This was very trying, as we all now wanted
+water badly, and so we finally decided to try
+a rocky gully leading steeply downwards.
+Sweet led the way, but, being too eager to
+get down, or through bad luck, slipped and
+hurt his leg in falling over a rock. It was
+very dark in the gully, and two candle ends
+which Sweet had brought proved invaluable.
+After climbing and crawling down some way
+over rocks, we were finally brought up by a
+sheer precipice falling 200 feet to the
+river. Tired and disgusted, we sat down to
+rest, and had to make up our minds to climb
+out the way we had come, and then either to
+go back down-stream or climb right to the
+top of the valley and advance and get down
+again higher up where the valley opened out.
+The latter course was adopted and, Tip giving
+us a good lead, we slowly and, in Sweet's case,
+painfully scrambled back. K. also had a bad
+time, as he was short-sighted and in such a
+dark spot it was no easy matter to get along.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">SLOW PROGRESS</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>W</span></span><span class="firstwords">e</span>
+all felt dreadfully tired as well as
+thirsty. The past two nights had
+told on us; and without proper
+sleep and sufficient food we were not in the
+best trim for a third night of mountaineering.
+After getting back to the track, we had to
+climb up the side of the ravine, which was
+steep and rocky. Resting every few yards,
+we eventually reached the top and turned
+up-stream. The point where we had descended
+the gully must have been in almost
+the narrowest part of the gorge, and we could
+see that we should have to move some way
+along the crest before we could get down to
+the water. We were still ascending, and
+after continuing a little further decided to
+lie down till dawn, and then trust to getting
+down to the river and hiding before the
+country people were about. It was hopeless
+to try to get down again in the dark, even
+had we possessed the strength. Thirsty as
+we were, we got off to sleep; and, when<a name="Page_136" id="Page_136"></a>
+we woke, found it was already beginning to
+get light. It had got much colder and our
+thirst had accordingly diminished. I had
+lost my cap the night before shortly before
+we camped, and now luckily managed to
+find it on going back a little way. We
+pressed on and began to descend again. It
+took us at least an hour down a very steep
+tree-clad slope. The stones we set rolling
+seemed to make a dreadful noise, but actually
+must have been drowned in the roar of the
+torrent below. As we neared the river, we
+found we were quite close to a farm; but no
+one was about, and we got down without
+trouble. How we drank, and what a relief
+it was to be beside water again! After a
+wash, we set about getting a meal by preparing
+our wheat. It took some time to
+get all the husks off the grain and longer to
+boil it; but it was very good and filling. Our
+biscuits had numbered originally about thirty-five
+each, so that as we had reckoned on a
+journey of a fortnight to the coast we only
+allowed ourselves two and a half per day.
+We made cocoa, in addition to the porridge,
+and went to sleep under the bushes, feeling
+a great deal better than we had done for
+some hours. Our camp was in a most ideal
+spot. Below us, the river wound down<a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a>
+through the gorge, while the steep slopes on
+each side of the valley were covered with
+magnificent trees. There were a great many
+hazel nuts, but these were not yet ripe or we
+would have gathered a large number.</p>
+
+<p>Later on, we produced our razor and, one
+by one, for the first time since leaving Kastamuni,
+made ourselves presentable. I got
+out the fishing line I had brought, but had
+no luck, chiefly owing to there being no worms
+to be seen in the soil on the river bank. The
+preserved meat seemed to have little attraction
+for the fish, of which there were plenty,
+and our biscuits were too precious to be used
+up in any way as bait.</p>
+
+<p>We started off once more about 6.30, and
+after some rough going reached the wide part
+of the valley where fields came down to the
+river. Here we were soon brought to a stop
+by seeing people still at work. Retracing
+our steps, we crossed the stream and started
+to ascend the northern side of the valley,
+keeping roughly to our easterly direction.
+After a steep ascent, we reached a fair track,
+along which we made good progress. Once
+or twice we had to wait and hide owing to
+farm people being about; but after it had
+got quite dark we got on again without interruption.
+On one occasion we passed close<a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a>
+to a farm. There was a resin-wood torch
+burning in the yard, and just as we appeared
+a woman opened a window and looked out;
+we expected her to see us, but possibly the
+glare from the torch was too strong, for she took
+no notice. By midnight, we had reached
+some high downland, where there seemed to
+be a large number of farms. After lying down
+for a couple of hours, we started off again; but
+soon lost all sign of our track. Continuing
+in our direction with the help of the stars
+or compass, we suddenly found ourselves
+within range of some village dogs. These
+brutes devoted their attention to us long and
+loudly, and there was nothing for it but to get
+away across the fields as fast as we could.
+After a little time, we found a track which presently
+led into a pine wood. We trudged
+on through the trees for two hours, the track
+keeping on the crest of the hill and bending
+round gradually towards the north. This
+wood promised good cover for the next day,
+and as we seemed to have reached its edge we
+decided to stop here all day. We lay down
+until it grew light and then moved to the best
+spot we could find. This day was Sunday,
+August 12th, and we can only have achieved
+about 30 miles as the crow flies, although
+at the time we put it at 40.<a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a></p>
+
+<p>Having picked no corn the night before,
+we had to be content with our small biscuit
+and meat ration which we carried, helped out
+with a fragment of Horlick and chocolate.
+Tip had not been feeling well all night and
+was now in considerable pain. He said
+porridge always laid him out, and our brew,
+which was not very well boiled, had proved
+no exception. As far as we could tell, it
+seemed to be appendicitis or something very
+like it. We discussed gloomy possibilities
+of giving ourselves up in the event of his not
+getting better; but he remained determined
+to push on if he possibly could.</p>
+
+<p>We reconnoitred our route for the coming
+night and set off again an hour before dusk.
+From the hill on which we had camped we
+could see a road leading in the direction we
+wanted, down a wide valley, and we determined
+to keep to this for some distance at all events.
+After forcing our way through brushwood to
+the foot of the hill, we were held up by hearing
+carts approaching and had to hide until they
+had gone past. We used this opportunity for
+a wash and to fill up our water-bottles from
+a small stream; and then set off again, following
+the carts down the road. After marching
+for an hour we reached some corn stacks
+and collected more wheat. It took longer<a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a>
+than when gathering it in an open field, but
+in half an hour we had accumulated enough,
+and again took the road. We had noticed
+that, further on, there seemed to be a good
+number of houses in the valley on our right
+which we should have to cross. Our direction
+now led down towards the river and the
+track passed through a stack yard. We were
+going quietly forward, when suddenly we
+were surprised by a number of dogs, which
+burst out upon us in full chorus from behind
+a stack. An old man appeared immediately
+afterwards and quieted the dogs, but luckily
+made no attempt to question us, and we
+passed on in silence. At night we always
+wore fezes and hoped thus to pass as Turks
+or Greeks.</p>
+
+<p>A short distance further on, we crossed the
+stream and then were delighted to discover a
+maize-field, where we gathered a few of the
+biggest cobs we could find. A moment later
+some one discovered that beans and marrows
+were growing on the ground beneath the
+maize, so we helped ourselves to these also.
+The beans were of a dwarf French variety,
+which seems to be the most popular kind
+throughout the district. Thus provisioned,
+we set off up a wide valley leading up in
+front of us.<a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a></p>
+
+<p>Poor Tip was having a hard time, and as
+we had to cross several ploughed fields before
+discovering any path, matters for him became
+much worse. He could manage to get along
+all right on a smooth path, but rough going
+gave him great pain. Fortunately, the road
+we now struck had quite a fair surface and
+we made a good pace for the next two hours,
+assisted by the moon. Finally, about 4 a.m.,
+we lay down for an hour, until dawn, near
+the side of the road. We found we had overslept
+ourselves on waking, as it was broad
+daylight; so we had to hurry off up a small
+hill and hide in the bushes. The country
+round seemed more deserted in this part of
+the valley and we had got away from cultivated
+land. As we were all now very done
+up, we decided to move down to the centre of
+the valley, which looked as if it must possess
+a stream. There we intended to hide for
+the rest of that day and the next. This we
+thought might give Tip a chance to get right
+again. After resting two or three hours on
+the hill, we scrambled down and eventually
+emerged in the main valley. Just before
+we reached it we as nearly as possible walked
+into two gendarmes, who were going up the
+valley road and crossed our path about a
+hundred yards ahead of us. However, they<a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a>
+did not see us and all was still well. After
+crossing the main valley and stream, we found
+a small gully on the further side which seemed
+to offer us good cover, as well as having a
+small supply of water. As we crossed the
+river bed to reach it we came in view of a man
+and two boys working on an irrigation dam
+a little higher up. Luckily, they had their
+backs towards us and did not notice anything.
+A little way up the gully, we found a sheltered
+spot to camp in and prepared a meal, chiefly
+from the vegetables we had gathered the night
+before. We made Tip as comfortable as
+possible, and with the aid of hot compresses
+succeeded in making him feel easier. Nothing
+occurred during the day, and, after another
+stew had been consumed in the evening, we
+set about making ourselves comfortable for
+the night. With the aid of fir branches we
+made a tolerably soft couch. Tip, K.
+and I for purposes of additional warmth
+slept side by side under the most substantial
+part of the sail, while Sweet, who preferred to
+be on his own, rolled himself up in the lighter
+piece. We would have much enjoyed a little
+more warmth at nights and, in spite of putting
+on the few spare garments we each carried,
+we were always much too cold before morning.</p>
+
+<p>Our plan now was to follow the road up to<a name="Page_143" id="Page_143"></a>
+the head of the valley and then steer as
+straight as possible for the Geuk Irmak
+valley, along which we knew ran the main
+road to Sinope. It was clear that we could
+not make fast enough progress at the present
+rate ever to reach Baffra before our provisions
+gave out; our boots, also, were getting
+badly worn and much work was done in repairs
+at our various halts. Walking across
+rough country at night had damaged them
+much more severely than we had ever imagined
+could be the case.</p>
+
+<p>The following day we spent in resting, cooking,
+and also shaving and washing. As one
+or two people had passed along the road in the
+afternoon, we did not like to make an early
+start and so waited until it was growing dark.
+For the first mile the track remained fairly
+good; then it forked, and we chose the left-hand
+branch as leading in the direction we
+wanted most. It was now quite dark and
+the sky cloudy; but what was much worse, the
+track got more and more indistinct as we
+slowly emerged into open country and fields
+at the head of the valley. Several times we
+had to halt and spread out to find the path;
+and then, at last, when we did reach a cart
+track we almost walked right into a big farm.
+After pausing to reconnoitre, we decided to<a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a>
+try to skirt it on the left, and had got half
+way round when a sheep-dog heard us and
+started off at full blast. There was a shepherd
+sitting with a torch in one of the farm
+buildings, but he took no notice. Shortly
+afterwards we found a field of beans to which we
+helped ourselves, and then had to make a
+diversion to avoid another house. This led
+us into a pinewood and we were soon forced
+to give it up until morning, as we could see
+no way through in the darkness. We lay
+down close together and got a few hours'
+sleep before the first sign of daylight roused us
+to continue our journey. We had to pass
+closer than we liked to a farm; but no one was
+about yet and we got away on to a high ridge
+covered with brushwood. After making our
+way for a short time along this, we halted and
+made cocoa, which with a biscuit formed our
+breakfast. By this time our biscuits had
+broken up into small fragments, so that we
+had to estimate how many bits were equal
+to a whole biscuit. Our experiences of the
+night before forced us to the conclusion that
+it was hopeless trying to do a good march by
+night unless on a good track; and we, therefore,
+decided to cut across a low cultivated stretch
+of land to the forest covering the opposite
+ridge and continue by daylight until reaching<a name="Page_145" id="Page_145"></a>
+the Geuk Irmak. It was now about nine
+o'clock and the peasants were at work in the
+fields almost all round us. There was no safe
+way of reaching the woods opposite without
+exposing ourselves to view, and the only
+thing was to do the best we could and use all
+the cover available. On getting down to a
+stream from a steep hill, we found we were close
+to some women and children. The latter saw
+us, but the women were too busy to notice
+us and we reached cover in a nullah on the
+further side without any alarm being raised.
+Our next encounter was with an old Turk.
+He saw us just before we saw him and was off
+to ground in some cover before one could say
+knife. Evidently, he was very much more
+startled at seeing us than we were at seeing
+him. After this we were not seen by any
+other people, and after skirting a harvest
+field got well into the forest. At two o'clock
+we halted, and having slept for two hours
+made another stew and prepared to go on
+till dark. We were in a big forest chiefly of
+huge pines which were being cut in places for
+resin. Our direction was now nearly due
+north, and every rise we topped would, we
+hoped, bring us in view of the Geuk Irmak
+valley. As is generally the case, the
+longed-for view was very slow in making its<a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a>
+appearance, and we had to bivouac for the
+night without reaching our goal. We had
+passed a small flour mill, driven by a water
+wheel. Sweet had investigated it for flour, but
+it was swept and garnished and absolutely
+empty.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">BLUFFING THE PEASANTS</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>N</span></span><span class="firstwords">ext</span>
+morning we were off at the first
+streak of dawn, after a very cold
+night. We were in a narrow valley,
+and look where we would we could not find
+the track we had seen not long before halting
+the previous night. The hills were too steep
+and wooded to make it possible to get along
+low down by the stream, so there was no other
+course open except to start climbing again
+in the hope of meeting the track at a higher
+level. This we succeeded in doing after
+toiling up some distance. Following the
+track, we emerged after a couple of miles
+on a hill overlooking the long expected Geuk
+Irmak. It was too late in the morning and
+the neighbourhood too populous to make
+further progress possible, so we bivouacked
+close by in the wood and hoped to make good
+distance that night along the main road in
+the valley. Starting an hour before dark,
+we were forced to wait for a home-coming<a name="Page_148" id="Page_148"></a>
+couple who were slowly returning along the
+track we were intending to take. When they
+were safely off the scene, we had to scramble
+down through the thickest copse it was ever
+our misfortune to meet with, and by the time
+we had reached the river it was quite dark. As
+on all such occasions, we took off our boots
+and socks to cross and replaced them on the
+other side, only to find soon after that there
+was another branch of the river which we had
+not been able to see in the dark, so that the
+process had to be repeated. Even then we
+were not over dry-shod, as there were now
+several irrigated fields to be crossed before
+we could get to the road. Creeping along
+the small bund dividing two fields, we endeavoured
+to keep on dry ground; but were not
+very successful. Finally, we reached a big
+irrigation nullah, which meant another wade.
+We were now, at last, on the main road; but
+it had taken us two hours' hard going to get
+there, which was a great disappointment.
+Soon after starting again, we met a couple
+of men on ponies, driving cattle. At the time
+we were rather separated; Tip and I escaped
+observation, but Sweet and K. were not so
+lucky, for the men stopped and asked who
+they were. Sweet promptly said "Germans"
+and gave a few details. The men, however,<a name="Page_149" id="Page_149"></a>
+declared they were prisoners, but did not
+seem disposed to make trouble, and moved on
+again after a few minutes, much to Sweet's
+relief.</p>
+
+<p>After another hour's trek, we felt too exhausted
+to go further, and lay down, intending
+to do a little more at dawn. The mosquitoes
+were a great pest in this valley and we had
+a very poor night's sleep. We had now come
+down to a much lower elevation: Kastamuni
+was 2,500 feet above sea, but this spot could
+scarcely be 1,000 feet. As soon as it grew
+light in the morning we were off again along
+the road, after filling up our water-bottles
+from the river and investigating another flour
+mill which proved to be empty. Very soon
+we came to a picturesque old wooden bridge
+spanning the stream and, after crossing this,
+decided to lie up for the day on the hill-side
+above. The valley became wider at this
+point and several hamlets and farms were to
+be seen; it therefore behoved us to get under
+cover as quickly as possible, since the peasants
+are very early astir. We found a good place
+and lit a fire. This was, perhaps, rather rash,
+but we felt that it was worth risking a good
+deal to have something hot to drink. As
+we had had no luck in getting vegetables
+the night before, we had to be content with<a name="Page_150" id="Page_150"></a>
+small rations. After an uneventful sunny
+day, we moved down to the road in the
+evening, and after filling our bottles with
+water from the river gathered some maize
+and marrows from a field close by. We then
+set off down the road and made very fair
+progress for the next three hours.</p>
+
+<p>Loaded as we were with several extra
+pounds each of marrow, we got more tired
+than would otherwise have been the case.
+Eventually, the road led us into a village, and
+we had to walk straight past some people
+coming towards us. They took no notice,
+however, and we went on. A little further,
+there was a light in a flour mill, which was
+grinding away as hard as it could go, being
+driven by a small water turbine. There
+seemed to be no track by which we could
+avoid going right through the village, and
+after retracing our steps once or twice we
+decided there was nothing else for it. We
+tramped down the road past several old
+fellows who were sitting outside a house and
+were probably interested in the activities of
+the flour mill. Most likely, by grinding
+secretly at night, it is possible to escape the
+Government's taxes on flour, but needless
+to say we did not stop to make inquiries.
+The road seemed to take us nowhere. After<a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a>
+visiting one or two back yards and coming
+out in another place on top of a house, we
+had eventually to retrace our steps past the
+old men to the end of the village which we
+had first entered. How that road made
+its way out we never discovered and, in consequence,
+lost a good deal of time and distance.</p>
+
+<p>After sleeping for a couple of hours in a
+graveyard, we set off with the first streak of
+dawn to make a circuit round the south
+side of the village, and reached a hill which
+promised safety for the day. It took us a
+long time and many halts had to be made.
+We disposed of our marrows by eating
+them raw, and decided that they were too
+heavy to be worth carrying any distance in
+future. Finally, we reached a snug spot
+in brushwood high up on the hill and made
+ourselves as comfortable as circumstances
+would allow.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon, I decided to go to the top
+of the hill to try to locate our exact position
+in the valley. After a steep climb I got a
+splendid view all round and discovered a convenient
+track for us to follow as soon as it
+grew dark. A town was clearly visible a few
+miles further on, and this I felt sure must be
+Duraghan, although the road leading to it did
+not correspond with what was shown on our<a name="Page_152" id="Page_152"></a>
+map. However, we decided that it must be
+this place, as by our calculations we reckoned
+we must have come every bit of the distance.
+Our disgust may be imagined when on the
+following day we found the place was really
+Boiabad, a town 30 miles short of Duraghan.</p>
+
+<p>Just after getting back to our bivouac, it
+came on to pour, but luckily we managed to
+get a fire going and a stew made just in time.
+However, the result was that we started marching
+an hour later, soaked very nearly to the
+skin, and with no prospect of being able to
+get dry in the near future. We came close
+to the town, as it was getting dark, and after
+crossing a stream had some discussion as to
+which road to take. Finally, we selected a
+track which we thought must lead into the
+main valley, where we were certain the main
+road would run on our side of the river. As
+a matter of fact, it had crossed to the other
+side and we did not meet it till next day.
+We continued along this track till midnight,
+when we lay down for a little sleep; but it
+was too cold to be possible in our wet things
+and in an hour we were up and off again.
+A few miles further on, we found we were
+close to a village through which the track
+ran and, joyful sight, there were several corn
+stacks close by. These promised a warm<a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a>
+shelter until dawn; but it was not to be. The
+usual village dog had already heard us and
+although we remained stock still he would not
+cease his frantic barking. One old peasant
+had already been roused up and came slowly
+towards us. Our only course was to go
+straight on; and we went right into the village,
+past several houses, through a cow pen, over
+a hedge and so on to the moor beyond. Just
+as we got clear some sportsmen let off a shot-gun.
+No pellets came near us and it was
+probably only meant as a warning to robbers!</p>
+
+<p>Luckily, we were not followed and got away
+over the hill, steering east. After some distance
+we rested again, until morning should
+show us our whereabouts. We were evidently
+some way from the river and a good height up.
+As it began to get light, we moved off towards
+the river, hoping to find a snug hiding-place
+near the water. No such luck was in store
+for us, for just as we reached a slope overlooking
+the river we saw a small village at our
+feet, and the village dogs saw us almost at
+the same moment. Wearily we retraced our
+steps uphill, and when out of range of the dogs
+held a council as to our future efforts. It was
+clear that while walking by night we were
+covering very little distance, and that at this
+rate the food we carried would be exhausted<a name="Page_154" id="Page_154"></a>
+long before we reached the sea. We decided,
+therefore, that our only hope lay in bluffing
+the country people that we were Germans
+and buying food where we could. Accordingly,
+we made for the first house we could see,
+where a miserable peasant and two women
+were working. We explained that we were
+Germans surveying, and produced our maps
+and passport in support of this contention.
+They did not doubt us; but they had no food
+to sell and, indeed, looked as poor and
+wretched as people well could. However,
+they referred us to their master, who was the
+headman of the locality. We crossed a few
+fields and were then met by this gentleman,
+to whom we told the same story. He led us
+into his house and providing us with seats
+gave orders for food to be prepared. In the
+meanwhile, Sweet carried on a conversation
+to the best of his ability. It appeared that
+our host was one Ahmed Chaoush (sergeant)
+who had been fighting against us in Gallipoli
+but now had a year's sick leave. He took in
+our story, but asked some awkward questions,
+such as why we carried no revolvers? Sweet
+had to pretend not to understand and, luckily,
+Ahmed did not become suspicious. We gathered
+from him that the town we had passed
+in the night was Boiabad and that Duraghan<a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a>
+was several hours' distance in front of us.
+This was a cruel blow, and only showed us how
+much slower we had been than we thought.
+In the meantime, the chaoush had produced
+some small pears which were soon disposed
+of. Finally, after much anxious speculation
+as to whether or no our host intended to give
+us a meal, real signs of preparation appeared
+for that eagerly expected event.</p>
+
+<p>A few minutes later a small circular table
+was produced and several dishes were brought
+in. These consisted of cucumber sliced up in
+milk, small wads of boiled flour in milk,
+yoghourt or curdled milk and chapatties&mdash;a
+feast such as we had hardly dared to hope
+for. Turkish fashion, we sat round, each
+armed with a wooden spoon and dipped in the
+same dish, emptying one after another. It
+is etiquette on such occasions to wait until
+the next man has taken a spoonful so that all
+may get the same number in the end, but I
+fear we were not always so scrupulous and
+ate as fast as our usual habits would allow.
+When the table and dishes had been cleared
+away, Ahmed was given a little English tobacco
+and told it was the best German variety.
+Soon after we bid him a grateful farewell,
+and, although he was unwilling to take anything,
+succeeded in getting him to accept<a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a>
+some money. We felt that to accept his
+hospitality and humbug him without any payment
+would scarcely be playing the game.
+He directed us towards our road, for which we
+had to descend again to the main valley and
+cross the river. On the further side we were
+delayed by a large irrigation nullah. When
+across this we found a good many blackberries
+and some onions in a field. The latter we
+seized upon with avidity, as being the first
+we had met with. There was some doubt
+as to which of two roads we should take,
+but it was decided to pursue one which some
+women had pointed out as the right road
+to Duraghan. This led straight away from
+the river and began to climb steeply. After a
+couple of hours, we had ascended some distance
+and decided to bivouac till the afternoon.
+The sun was pretty hot, but we were
+now high up and on top of a small hill from
+which the surrounding ranges could be clearly
+seen. It was evident that we had not come
+in the direction we had intended, but, on the
+other hand, we were now heading direct for
+the sea. After some discussion and poring
+over the map, we decided that our only real
+chance of reaching the sea lay in making a
+bee-line across country as nearly as possible in
+a north-easterly direction, buying food where<a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a>
+we could and walking by day. If we had gone
+on we should not only have had to skirt
+Duraghan by night, or make a big detour by
+day, but the distance down to the sea would
+have been very much greater. In addition,
+it would have been much hotter for walking,
+with the extra hardship of mosquitoes at
+night.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">REACHING THE COAST</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>W</span></span><span class="firstwords">e</span>
+made it to be 30 miles in a
+straight line to the sea from the
+spot where we now lay and hoped
+to do the distance in three days. After the
+chaoush's hospitality at breakfast we scarcely
+felt inclined for another meal till the afternoon,
+when we made tea, and then packed up,
+intending to follow up a track beside a stream
+which flowed down from the range we had now
+determined to cross. Descending our hill,
+we came to a small village, and thought it
+would be just as well to see if we could purchase
+any provisions before going further.
+We asked some children for eggs, whereupon
+a Turkish matron of an unusually agreeable
+type came out and after a little parleying
+brought us quite a royal supper. This consisted
+mainly of an excellent tomato stew,
+chapatties, yoghourt and fruit. Taking into
+account what we had accumulated from Ahmed
+Chaoush, we had now got quite a good<a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a>
+stock of chapatties. The amusement afforded
+by bluffing these good people had considerably
+raised our spirits, but all at once the good
+dame serving us staggered us completely by
+saying casually she had seen us in Kastamuni.
+We assured her it must have been
+other people, as we had no connection with
+Kastamuni and were real Germans from
+Angora.</p>
+
+<p>Just before leaving a man appeared who
+eyed us very suspiciously, and we were glad
+to get away without waiting to make his
+acquaintance. We had hardly gone a mile
+before an old man ran to meet us with his
+cap full of apples. We seemed almost to be
+entering on a triumphal progress and were
+tremendously amused. Several houses and
+a large village were passed without event,
+but a little further on we found several men
+with mules resting a short distance from the
+road. They called to us, and probably
+wanted to continue their journey in our company,
+but it was sailing nearer the wind than
+we cared for and, pretending we had to go on
+at once, we did not stop to hear anything
+more from them. Just before dark we passed
+through a very picturesque gorge, where the
+stream ran through a deep narrow gateway
+between two enormous masses of rock, and<a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a>
+beyond this found a nook to sleep in for the
+night where we should be protected from the
+wind. This had been a truly great day, and
+its success seemed to confirm the wisdom of
+our new policy.</p>
+
+<p>Early the following morning, we were once
+more pursuing our path, which now became
+fainter and steeper as it rose towards the
+rocky ridge towering above us. Towards
+eleven o'clock, we reached some poor houses
+not far below the crest. Hoping to be able
+to purchase food, we stopped and made
+inquiries, but all the chief people seemed to
+be away at some market and there was nothing
+to be had. We continued on our way and
+after another hour's tramp came to a cattle
+trough by the side of the path. As there was
+water flowing here, we decided to halt till
+the afternoon, and found a snug spot a few
+yards up the hill. In the afternoon, after
+washing and shaving, we were nearly discovered
+by a man who appeared to be a gendarme.
+He came riding down the path and
+stopped to water his horse at the trough, but
+passed on without noticing anything. Soon
+afterwards we were again marching, still
+upwards towards the crest of the mountain
+ridge. We must have been now over 4,000
+feet up, and hoped when we reached the top<a name="Page_161" id="Page_161"></a>
+we should actually see the sea. An hour's
+trek took us to a poor village standing very
+high and, probably, in winter almost always
+in the clouds. An ill-clad woman informed
+us that she was a Greek who had only just
+arrived from Kastamuni. She seemed to
+have a pretty clear notion as to what we really
+were, but said nothing and, eventually, got
+us yoghourt and some chapatties. Our direction
+was now about north-east and we were
+making for Tel Kelik, a small place marked
+on the map, a little on the northern side of the
+watershed. Most of the peasants seemed
+never to have heard of it, and we had some
+difficulty in getting on to a path leading in the
+right direction. As it grew dusk, we found
+ourselves in a second village at almost the
+same elevation; there was no one about,
+but eventually a man turned up who said
+he was on his way home to another village.
+The village women in particular were most
+suspicious, declaring that there was no food
+anywhere; and it was not until some little
+while later, when the colour of our money
+had been clearly shown, that anything was
+forthcoming. We had intended to spend the
+night in a village hut if possible, as the only
+alternative was sleeping in the mist, which at
+4,000 feet was a cold and dreary prospect.<a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a>
+However, after some parleying, we were led
+to what proved to be the travellers' rest hut.
+Our story was absorbed with due interest, a
+large fire lighted and some food brought in.
+We lay down on mats on the floor, rejoicing
+in the warmth and, if undisturbed by smaller
+visitors, felt we should have a really good
+night's rest. Several village worthies looked
+in during the evening to see the Almans
+(Germans) and we hope were not disappointed.
+A young soldier just returned on leave from
+Constantinople helped to procure some butter
+and syrup for us. The latter is a poor substitute
+for treacle and seems to be made from
+raisins. This reception in a travellers' rest
+hut was the limit reached by our bluff; it gave
+us much satisfaction to think how annoyed
+our Turkish friends in Kastamuni would be
+to know of our being entertained in such a
+manner.</p>
+
+<p>We had a splendid night, although lying
+on the floor, and in the morning obtained a
+little more food and some butter through our
+soldier friend. After a hasty meal we hurried
+off with our first acquaintance of the previous
+night as guide to put us on the right road. We
+were soon at the highest point of the range,
+although as yet the sea was not in view. A
+little further on, after having bought a large<a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a>
+knife from our friend, we bade him good-bye
+with many expressions of gratitude. Tel
+Kelik was now quite close, and it was fortunate
+that we were not compelled to march
+through it, since we found later that there was
+a Turkish detachment stationed in the village.
+Leaving the Tel Kelik valley, we climbed the
+hill on our side and an hour later&mdash;at 9.30&mdash;were
+delighted at finding the sea stretching
+out before us in the sunshine. It looked
+about fifteen miles off, but the mere sight
+seemed to raise our spirits marvellously,
+and we were, perhaps, almost as elated as
+Xenophon's men when the same sea greeted
+their gaze at Trebizond. We were now in
+a copse and decided to halt till evening. To
+celebrate the occasion, we made a late breakfast
+of buttered eggs, the eggs having been
+bought at a cottage we had passed during the
+morning. The next work in front of us was
+to make something of the coarse flour which
+we had procured two days previously from the
+Greek woman. Sweet got to work and,
+using some of the butter and our last tin of
+condensed milk, turned out a very fine dough.
+Baking was the chief difficulty and, after
+trying to make an oven, in the end we had to
+be content with making small chapatties on
+our diminutive frying-pan turned upside down<a name="Page_164" id="Page_164"></a>
+and on the lid of a canteen. The results
+were very satisfactory, although consisting
+largely of fragments.</p>
+
+<p>At four o'clock in the afternoon, we set
+off again and by dark had gone a good distance,
+and, after finding a sheltered spot for
+the night, collected a quantity of dead bracken
+to make ourselves as comfortable as possible.</p>
+
+<p>We were off again early next morning, and
+had a steep scramble down through a wood, and
+eventually, to a stream at the bottom of a deep
+valley. Here there were a number of blackberries
+which we took advantage of, and then
+climbed the further side, coming out at last
+on the top and finding nothing now lay
+between ourselves and the beach, which must
+have been only three miles away at the
+nearest point. A moment later a sailing boat
+was seen close in to the shore and two or three
+others soon after. We were overjoyed at this,
+as it meant that boats were still being used
+along the coast and that there was no truth
+in all the stories we had heard in Kastamuni
+to the effect that no boats were now plying.
+There was a small wooded hill projecting
+into the sea a little west of where we now were,
+and from its summit there would be a good
+view of the coast in each direction; on the
+other hand we knew we could not be far from<a name="Page_165" id="Page_165"></a>
+the town of Jerse, and going west meant
+getting still nearer to it. Also, there were
+several farms and open country between us
+and the hill, and we were now very anxious
+not to be seen at all if we could help it. In
+the end, we decided to stay where we were
+for the day and go straight down to the
+shore in front of us late in the afternoon.
+The wood we were in was very thick and, try
+as we might, no good spot for a halt could
+be found which would also give us a clear
+outlook on to the coast and any boats sailing
+along it. We had to be content to do without
+further observation of the sailing boats,
+and bivouacked amongst the trees. Tea
+was made and a frugal meal of biscuits
+followed; our cocoa was now all exhausted,
+and greatly did we wish we had brought more
+of it in the place of some other things.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">RECAPTURED</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>I</span></span><span class="firstwords">n</span>
+the afternoon, we sewed together the
+two halves of the sail and cut a handle
+for our axe head so as to be as ready as
+possible in the event of discovering a boat.
+After making a stew from some beans we had
+gathered in a field on the hill that morning,
+we packed up and set off, full of hope and
+excitement. The question of going across
+to the wooded hill arose again when we got
+clear of the wood, but it was thrown out, and,
+bitterly did we regret it next day. Turning
+down to the shore, we crossed the road and,
+eventually, reached the beach just as it was
+getting dark. There were one or two small
+houses just on our right above the shingle,
+and we were reconnoitring carefully when
+a big rowing boat was seen coming along
+close to the beach, rowed by some eight men.
+It went a quarter of a mile further along, and
+the boat was then pulled up by the men and
+others who appeared from the houses. It was<a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a>
+too dark to see what they were, but for some
+unknown reason we did not suspect that they
+were men of a guard at this place, or connect
+the houses with a place shown on one of our
+maps as being somewhere near here. We
+debated whether to go along the coast when
+it was quite dark and reconnoitre, or whether
+to wait for dawn. In any case, it seemed
+hopeless to think we could push off the boat
+which had just been pulled up: it was far
+too heavy and they had brought it up a long
+way. Finally, we decided to wait till dawn
+and then go along and see what we could find.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as it began to get light next morning,
+August 23rd, we were up; our excitement
+was increased by seeing a small boat
+moored a little way from the beach. This
+had mast and sail and was just the size of
+boat we were hoping for. We crept quietly
+down to a track along the shingle. Sweet
+was in front and reported seeing a peasant
+near the first house. We walked quickly
+on finding that there were rather more tumble-down
+houses than we had expected. However,
+it was too early for people to be about
+and there seemed no reason to suspect danger.
+We were hurrying on towards the boat we
+had seen, when we passed the end of a tumble-down
+boat-house and, to our dismay, found a<a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a>
+Turkish sentry standing just inside. He
+stopped Sweet, while we three hurried on a
+little further. Sweet told him we were Germans
+bound for Samsun, the next port along
+the coast. However, the old man insisted
+on telling his chaoush or sergeant. Meanwhile
+Sweet had rejoined us, but there was no
+chance of getting away, as by this time three
+or four others of the guard had turned out.
+The sergeant had us brought back to the
+guard-house, where the next scene of the
+pantomime began. Sweet, as had been previously
+arranged, was to play the part of a
+German officer, while we three were orderlies.
+Accordingly, we carried his pack for him,
+jumped up and down and saluted and, generally,
+behaved in a manner calculated to show
+our subservience. Meanwhile, the chaoush
+who was in charge of the guard at this place&mdash;a
+village called Kusafet&mdash;was evidently not
+at all sure of his ground, and suggested we
+should go with him to Jerse. We replied
+we were going in the opposite direction, and
+wanted a boat with which to reach Samsun.
+The boat which had been moored off the
+beach had now been brought to shore and
+was landing some stores for the guard. We
+spoke to the skipper of this boat and, finding
+he came from Trebizond and knew a little<a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a>
+English, hoped he would be amenable to
+helping us. Our idea was that having got
+on board for Samsun we could persuade him
+for a consideration to take us on to Trebizond,
+which was in Russian hands.</p>
+
+<p>He went upstairs to confer with the chaoush,
+but whether he gave us away or not we were
+never quite sure. He came down advising us
+to go to Jerse and see the commandant there.
+This man, he assured us, knew no English or
+German, and was very ignorant and would
+believe our story. The chaoush wanted to
+make us march to Jerse, but we refused
+and, eventually, set off in the boat under the
+escort of the chaoush and two other armed
+soldiers. Before leaving we had obtained
+some chapatties, and a little raw fish which
+was better eating than we had expected. On
+the way we suggested to the skipper that with
+the help of the crew we could easily overpower
+the guard and then set sail east; but he would
+not agree, and with the probability of the crew
+of five joining the guard we should have stood
+no chance at all. Hugging the coast, we reached
+Jerse in two hours, finding a small Turkish
+town built on a slight promontory. On the
+way, we passed the wooded hill we had talked
+about so often the day before. We should
+have been quite safe on this hill and, what<a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a>
+was more, should have seen two or three
+boats in which we could probably have got
+away without much trouble. On reaching
+Jerse we found ourselves moored beside a
+small patrol boat of the Turkish navy, one
+of the crew of which said openly we were
+English. However, Sweet had gone ashore
+with the chaoush, and we were left hoping for
+the best, but fearing the game was up. Half
+an hour later we were summoned to join
+Sweet, and were conducted with him to a
+police station. Here Tip was made to
+speak on the 'phone to a German officer at
+Sinope. He could think of nothing to say but
+"Sprechen sie Deutsch," to which the Teuton
+eagerly responded at the other end. After
+shouting this down the 'phone several times
+Tip threw down the receiver, declaring it was
+out of order! Another man coming into the
+station declared he had seen two of us at
+Kastamuni. We were then taken to the
+commandant of the town and agreed it was
+useless to try to bluff any longer, since they
+believed us to be English spies and it was only
+a matter of getting hold of any German for our
+whole story to fall to the ground. We, therefore,
+admitted that we had escaped from
+Kastamuni, saying we had been so long
+prisoners that we wanted to get home. The<a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a>
+commandant was one of the best types of
+Turkish officer it had been our fortune to meet
+and was most polite. We were searched, and
+our maps and compasses and diaries taken,
+except from K., who managed to smuggle
+his map through. My original compass, not
+being recognized as such, was not taken.</p>
+
+<p>Sweet told us that on first landing he had
+seen the commandant of the local <i>gendarmerie</i>,
+whom he had no difficulty in bluffing,
+as the skipper had foretold. Sweet told him
+we were on our way to the Caucasus to help
+in preparing a coming offensive for the Turks.
+He took all this in and Sweet was congratulating
+himself that our troubles were over.
+After giving Sweet coffee he said, no doubt,
+we would now like to be going on our way
+to Samsun. Sweet agreed, and they were just
+coming back to rejoin us when the Yuzbashi
+mentioned that there was a colonel
+who was commandant of the town and that
+he would probably like to see Sweet before
+he left. The fat was then in the fire. Sweet
+proffered our passport, but the colonel was
+suspicious and a Turkish naval officer whom
+he called in confirmed his ideas that we were
+British. The colonel told us later that there
+were two mistakes in our passport, which
+otherwise he evidently thought was quite<a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a>
+good. He had our names and had been warned
+of our escape some two or three days after
+we had left Kastamuni.</p>
+
+<p>The yuzbashi, finding how thoroughly he
+had been bluffed, was now equally frantic
+in his wrath. We were said to be going off
+that day to Sinope, and he was already preparing
+to handcuff us together in pairs.
+Luckily, the colonel turned up in time to
+prevent this. Most of our money was now
+taken and a receipt given to us for it. A little
+later we were told we were not going that
+day and were given a better room in the
+police station. The chaoush was very pleased
+with himself and told us he was going to
+accompany us to Kastamuni. He, also, it
+appeared, had been warned of our escape
+and, having passed through Kastamuni recently,
+probably suspected us more quickly
+than he would otherwise have done. The
+colonel came in to see us, and endeavoured
+to find out as much as he could from us as to
+which way we had come and how we had got
+food, but we told him very little. We got
+some food sent in and finally lay down on the
+floor for the night. Tip was now suffering
+again from his previous complaint, and we
+insisted that a doctor should be brought.
+However, no one was forthcoming. Next<a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a>
+morning we were allowed to go into the bazaar
+to buy a few things needful, and on our return
+were told to get ready to march at once. A
+small donkey was brought up and on this we
+loaded our kit.</p>
+
+<p>Tip was still feeling very poorly and had
+a bad time on the march. After some
+eight miles, mostly along by the sea, we
+reached some Turkish barracks which had
+evidently been only recently put up. They
+were wooden buildings, but, fortunately,
+cleaner than might have been expected. We
+were put into a small corner room in the
+officers' quarters and were much amused to
+find that no less than three sentries were
+posted to guard us; one outside the door,
+and one outside each window.</p>
+
+<p>The officers consisted of a fat and surly
+yuzbashi and an Arab lieutenant, a huge man
+who was most genial and friendly. He told
+us his home was near Mosul, but he refused
+to believe that the British were in Bagdad and
+evidently thought we were trying to bluff
+him, the ignorance pervading all classes in
+Turkey as to what is happening in the outside
+world being colossal.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">RESCUED</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>W</span></span><span class="firstwords">e</span>
+had several visits from the Arab
+officers, and they very kindly gave us
+a share of their food, which consisted
+chiefly of a vegetable stew. The following
+morning we were given a bread ration for
+five days and told to get ready at once.
+Tip was not fit to move, but they would not
+listen to us and dragged him out. We found
+a small pony had been brought, so Tip
+mounted this and we set off with a guard of
+a sergeant and eight privates; our former
+friend, the chaoush from Kusafet, was not
+coming with us after all and in his place we
+had a truculent quick-tempered fellow who
+looked as if he would be anything but an
+agreeable companion on the march. The men
+were evidently in the best of spirits, a visit
+to Kastamuni being a great event for them.
+In addition, they carried a good deal of
+tobacco, which they doubtless expected to sell
+again at a large profit on arrival. A great<a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a>
+deal of tobacco is grown in the coast districts,
+more particularly near Samsun. We
+set off at a very easy pace and after passing
+the German wireless station soon had a halt.
+The guard had two donkeys which carried
+their kit, but the chaoush would not hear
+of us putting our packs on them as well.
+After another halt in a village, we reached a
+caravanserai early in the afternoon, where
+the guard prepared their food, the man who
+owned the donkeys acting as cook to the
+chaoush. This fellow had not even the disreputable
+uniform which the average Turkish
+soldier possesses, but was clothed in thin
+black stuff. His efforts produced boiled rice
+over which a little melted butter was poured.
+This was taken to a raised corner where he and
+the chaoush proceeded to shovel it into their
+mouths from the same bowl, etiquette prescribing
+that the two parties should take
+spoonfuls strictly in turn. An hour later
+we were off again, and began to ascend the
+lower slopes of the mountains we had crossed
+a few days previously. Now, however, we
+were on the so-called main road. It was one
+of the worst roads it had been our lot ever
+to have seen, and we were truly thankful
+we were not travelling in carts. Long stretches
+were strewn with blocks of stone, which had<a name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></a>
+been, apparently, left there promiscuously
+by some contractor who had not finished his
+job, like so many others in this country. An
+hour or two later, after ascending some little
+distance, we stopped for the chaoush to get
+his pony shod. This animal he had commandeered
+at a village we had passed through,
+and now fancied himself to no small extent
+as a mounted man. After a long wait the
+shoeing was at last accomplished and we set
+off once more. To our delight the chaoush
+had also procured a second pony, and on this
+we were allowed to load our packs. About
+eight o'clock we reached a small village, where
+we were to spend the night; an empty log
+hut was found and a fire made in the large
+open hearth. We were given one side of the
+chief room while most of the guard slept on
+the rest of the floor. With some eggs we had
+bought we made a very good supper and,
+thanks to the fire, were as comfortable as the
+circumstances would allow. We were now
+high up and it would have been very cold
+to bivouac in the open, as we must have been
+surrounded by clouds during the night.
+Before going off to sleep we considered the
+chances of escape. There would be little
+chance after another day or two when we
+had got further from the sea and were halting<a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a>
+in larger villages, so that the present night
+seemed the only practical time, should opportunity
+offer. However, we soon came
+to the conclusion that it was quite impossible,
+as not only was there a sentry in the
+narrow passage outside the door but one or
+two of the askars in our room were told to
+keep awake in turns. The only exit was the
+door, to reach which we should have to walk
+over several of our guard.</p>
+
+<p>First thing in the morning, August 27th,
+we were off again up the road. It was a
+glorious day and nothing happened beyond
+the usual halts every hour or so. We discussed
+our escapade once more, again deciding
+we had had a good run for our money, but
+that we had not been cautious enough when
+we did reach the coast. We went over
+afresh the various routes possible and alterations
+in plans which we would have adopted
+with the experience now gained. It was about
+nine o'clock and we had been on the march
+fully two hours when suddenly with a cry of
+"Askar" shots rang out from the nearside
+of the road. For a moment we were too
+startled to know what to make of it. Then
+K. and I made a dive down the "khud"
+side, as the open road seemed anything but
+the best place to stay in. The first shot had<a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>
+bowled over the man in black who was riding
+a donkey in front. We had been told so
+much at Kastamuni about the bandits infesting
+the hills that we quite thought we might
+have fallen amongst a party of them and that
+to be taken and held to ransom would be a
+worse fate than returning for a few months
+to the civil prison at Kastamuni or Angora.</p>
+
+<p>On going a little way down the hill I saw
+a man whom I at first thought to be the
+chaoush, but as he beckoned to me saying
+"Venez, venez," I saw that this was one of
+the new arrivals. He wanted me to go off
+down the hill with him, but after descending
+a little way I explained there were other
+officers on the road and I must go back to
+them. In the meantime, he was very voluble
+and excited, but I could not gather who they
+were or what had brought them. On arriving
+back on the road I found K. and Tip; the
+fighting was now over, and three of the brigands
+were collecting the askars' rifles and
+ammunition. The guard had put up no
+show at all and the nine of them were all disarmed
+and standing like sheep within two
+minutes, thanks almost entirely to the efforts
+of the three now collecting their arms, since
+my friend had been too far down the bank
+to have done much firing himself. The<a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>
+question now was whether we were to go with
+these fellows. K. was all for going off at
+once, but Tip and I hesitated as to the position
+we should be in, if caught again by the
+Turks before getting away. Our new friends
+would, of course, have been shot as outlaws,
+and we should very likely have shared the
+same fate. We took them aside and at length
+made out that they were adherents of the old
+Turk party and had no use whatever for
+Enver and his Government. They said they
+had come specially to rescue us, and had a
+boat ready to put off for either Trebizond
+of Sevastopol in three or four days' time.
+After realizing this, a process which took
+some time, as our knowledge of the language
+was very sketchy, we decided to throw in our
+fortunes with our new friends, as it seemed a
+heaven-sent chance of getting out of the
+country and almost too good to be true.
+We had seen nothing of Sweet since the firing
+started and now began to shout for him and
+search on each side of the road. Our new
+friends set the old guard on to look for him,
+but not a sign of him could we see and no
+response came to our calls. After searching
+and shouting for an hour, we finally had to
+give it up, and leaving the guard in the road
+set off with our new acquaintances, whom we<a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a>
+will now style the "akhardash"&mdash;or comrades&mdash;as
+that was the name they always used for
+themselves and their supporters. As far as
+we could see, Sweet must have dashed away
+when the first shots rang out, thinking no
+doubt that this was a splendid opportunity
+of getting free again. It was very hard luck
+for him, especially as he had all along been one
+of the keenest and most energetic of the party.
+The old guard watched us go without emotion;
+they were apparently used to surprises of
+this sort. The chaoush remarked that we
+should now go to our homes, and we often
+wondered what happened to him when he got
+back to the barracks and reported.</p>
+
+<a name="escape"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/escape_map_small.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="445">
+<p class="caption">MAP (REDUCED) SHOWING ROUTE OF ESCAPE</p>
+<p class="center"><a href="images/escape_map.jpg">Larger Version of Map</a></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>He would be sure to say his party had been
+greatly outnumbered and were only disarmed
+after a prolonged resistance, but, nevertheless,
+he was probably reduced to a private. Besides
+the man in black who had been killed,
+two of the others had been wounded. Considering
+the rate at which the akhardash
+started firing, at a range of only twenty yards
+or so, the wonder is they did not hit many
+more; probably after inflicting a few casualties
+to start with they afterwards fired high
+on purpose. The guard, beyond firing one
+or two shots, seemed to have made no resistance
+at all. They were completely surprised<a name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></a>
+and totally unready for such an occurrence.
+Tip had an unenviable experience. He was
+riding his pony when the shooting began and
+had our rucksacks festooned round his saddle
+and over his legs so that he could not dismount
+in a hurry and found himself in a helpless
+position in a small storm of bullets. Finally,
+he was dragged to the ground by the tallest
+of the akhardash, who proceeded to kiss him
+with much fervour! This man, whose name
+was Musa, became our great friend. He was
+a tall lithe fellow and was always ready to
+do everything he possibly could for our comfort
+during the following weeks. The leader,
+whom we always rather suspected of having
+played the part of the Duke of Plaza Toro in
+the actual scrap, was one Bihgar Bey, a most
+evil-looking gentleman. In fact none of the
+four at the time we first saw them presented
+an appearance likely to inspire any confidence,
+but resembled more the types one sees portrayed
+as those of the greatest criminals.
+Bihgar Bey, we learnt later, was one of a
+dozen implicated in the murder of Mahomed
+Shevket Pasha<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> some years previously, but
+as he alone when caught was not in possession
+of arms his sentence was only one of transportation,
+while all the others were put to death.<a name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a>
+The other two were Keor, an old Armenian
+who looked as if he had led a very hard life,
+and Kiarmil, a little man who had been a
+sergeant-major in the Turkish forces during
+the late Balkan war. Their looks, however,
+entirely belied them, as will be seen from our
+subsequent experiences, when on all occasions
+they went out of their way to lessen the hardships
+of our life in the woods. During the
+following days we found that they had been
+able to pay a certain sum yearly to avoid
+military service up to a few months previously,
+when all such privileges had been cancelled.
+They had then been forced either
+to serve or become outlaws, and had chosen
+the latter alternative. After living in the
+woods supported by more law-abiding friends,
+of whom they seemed to have a great number
+dotted about the country, they had decided
+to leave for Russia, and made arrangements
+with a man in Sinope to embark in his boat
+when all their party had been gathered and all
+arrangements completed. In the meantime,
+a gendarme at Sinope, who was also of their
+political views, had given them news of our
+recapture and march back to Kastamuni.
+They determined thereupon to effect our
+rescue, and the evening before had made a
+forced march of over twenty miles. At first,<a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>
+we could not understand why they had taken
+on such an enterprise, seeing that it could
+only hinder their own plans for getting away,
+and would probably make it much more
+difficult for them to leave at all, as the
+Turkish authorities would be sure to take a
+good deal of trouble to prevent our getting
+out of the country; but they seemed to have
+a profound contempt for any number of
+gendarmes and no doubt considered we should
+form a good introduction for them to Russia.
+Whatever their reasons, it was a very plucky
+act for four of them to take on a guard of
+nine, although at the time when the man
+in black was bowled over it seemed a
+horribly cold-blooded business.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3" class="fnlabel">[3]</a> Grand Vizier, 1913.</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">IN HIDING WITH THE TURKS</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>T</span></span><span class="firstwords">hroughout</span>
+the following weeks
+our new friends did all they could
+to make us as comfortable as circumstances
+would permit, and we can never
+be sufficiently grateful to them for thus
+enabling us to leave captivity and reach home.
+They would never listen to any offers of payment,
+saying they did not wish to be taken
+for men who had rescued us for money.</p>
+
+<p>Going back to the morning of our first
+acquaintance, we left the guard standing
+in the road while we, with all their ammunition
+and four of their rifles, retraced our steps
+along the road towards the sea and then
+branched off down a side track, finding a secure
+hiding-place in a thick wood about a mile
+further on. We thought it might be as well
+to impress the guard with the idea that we
+had been taken off by the "brigands" against
+our will, and therefore got them to tie our
+hands together and behaved as if we did not<a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a>
+want to go with them at all. When out of
+sight, we undid the cords and marched on
+again as really free men, Bihgar Bey continually
+cheering us by saying, "Allons,
+enfants de la patrie," which, considering
+his position as an outlaw, was distinctly
+humorous. It was wonderful the inspiring
+effect the change from captivity had upon
+<a name="tn_png_199"></a><!--TN: Period removed after "Tip"-->Tip, who had been so seedy during the last
+few days; now he began to recover rapidly
+and succeeded in marching all the following
+night without any ill effects.</p>
+
+<p>We had taken Sweet's kit with us, thinking
+we might meet him and that in any case it
+would be of no use to leave it with the guard.
+After sorting it out, we took one or two
+articles each and made our rescuers some small
+presents from the remainder. Bihgar and
+Kiarmil went off to fill our water-bottles and
+returned a little while later, after announcing
+their approach by clapping their hands. This
+we found was the method always adopted
+by the akhardash when meeting each other
+in woods or by night.</p>
+
+<p>It was arranged that two of them would
+accompany us down at nightfall to a secure
+hiding-place, while the other two were to go
+in the opposite direction to meet friends from
+Boiabad who were also joining the party and,<a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a>
+as far as we could make out, were bringing a
+good deal of money with them. In the end,
+we set off about half-past seven under the
+guidance of Keor, the old Armenian, while
+the other three set off again towards Boiabad.
+They had told us that we should reach our
+hiding-place in three hours, Bihgar Bey making
+our mouths water by describing it as a
+place of milk and honey, where we would
+be provided with meat, butter, eggs and cheese,
+all of which since we left Kastamuni had
+seemed the greatest luxuries.</p>
+
+<p>Keor started off at a trot down a path
+through the wood. He was carrying his own
+rifle and one of our late guard's weapons, as
+well as four bandoliers full of ammunition
+and a bag on his back. We three each carried
+a rifle, but hoped there would be no more
+cold-blooded shooting of the type that had
+effected our rescue. Keor's pace must have
+been about five miles an hour, and we soon
+had to request him to go slower, as I had a
+dicky knee which would be likely to give
+trouble going downhill at a trot over a bad
+path with daylight almost gone. Our packs
+with some of Sweet's kit were now a good
+weight, so that with a rifle in addition we
+were well loaded. After being told that we
+should reach our goal in three hours we felt<a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>
+fairly confident of attaining it in five, especially
+as we kept up a good pace and the recognized
+halts were not observed. Keor several
+times missed his way, but always found it
+in the end. After a couple of hours we reached
+a river and wended our weary way down its
+bed, first on one side, then crossing to the
+other side and then back again. There
+was no path and we floundered along amongst
+the boulders in the darkness. Whenever we
+halted, which was not often, Keor always
+said it was now only one hour's march
+further.</p>
+
+<p>About 3 a.m. we were going along a rough
+track beside the river bed when suddenly
+my bad knee gave way and I took a complete
+toss, rifle and pack going all over the place.
+There was nothing for it but to go on, so
+tying up the knee with a puttee, I hobbled
+on&mdash;the others nobly helping me by carrying
+my rifle. We were now all pretty well done
+and signs of dawn began to show in the east.
+Keor was very anxious to get in, saying there
+would be a great many gendarmes hereabouts
+the following day. At length we left the
+river, climbed a small rise, and passed close
+to some cottages, where the usual dogs soon
+started a chorus. This led to one or two
+shots being fired, probably with the idea of<a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a>
+scaring off robbers, but, apparently, we were
+not actually seen. Finally, we dragged ourselves
+up a steep track, and got to ground in
+a thick copse. We were worn out; it was
+now a quarter-past five and we had done
+nine and a quarter hours instead of the three
+we had been promised. Still, we were free&mdash;and
+nothing else mattered. We put on what
+extra garments we had and were very soon
+asleep.</p>
+
+<p>A few hours later Keor disappeared and
+returned shortly afterwards with what seemed
+to us a splendid breakfast: fried eggs, chapatties
+and yoghourt. <a name="tn_png_202"></a><!--TN: "A pparently" changed to "Apparently"-->Apparently, we were close to
+the house of an akhardash, from whom all
+this had been procured. Although some
+children came near us during the day, we were
+not discovered, and remained quietly where
+we were till nightfall. Then we tramped off
+once more, but only to halt at a very short
+distance further on under some trees near
+a house, which was probably the one our
+breakfast had come from. Here we were
+met by a boy of fifteen, by name Aziz, who
+came to us through the trees with a loaded
+rifle slung over his shoulder. Our friends
+always carried their rifles with a round in the
+chamber, but with the bolt not pushed home.
+We were continually expecting some accident<a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>
+to happen from this practice, but luckily
+nothing did.</p>
+
+<p>Of the rifles belonging to our four rescuers,
+two were short Lee-Enfields which had been
+captured on the Gallipoli peninsula, and had
+found their way to the bazaar in Constantinople,
+where they had been retailed for &pound;T.10
+or nine pounds sterling: now, however, they
+assured us that the price had gone up to
+&pound;T.20. Musa had a Turkish Mauser, made in
+Germany, while Keor possessed a Russian
+rifle. Aziz met us with an old Greek weapon,
+but much to his delight was given one of the
+rifles which had belonged to our guard. He
+was a very bright boy, and intensely excited
+and jubilant over our rescue and the discomfiture
+of the guard. In every case, the
+muzzle piece was removed so as to lighten
+the weapon, a bayonet, apparently, not being
+considered worth carrying when fighting gendarmes
+in the mountains. In addition to
+their rifles, some of our friends carried Caucasian
+daggers. These are straight, with a
+very fine sharp point and double-edged blade
+about fifteen inches long. They were used
+for cutting brushwood, rigging up shelters
+in the woods, killing sheep, or chopping up
+meat, as required. Whenever we halted,
+Keor used to spend much loving care over<a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a>
+his bandoliers of ammunition, seeing that
+each round was clean and not too loose in its
+leather loop.</p>
+
+<p>After a few minutes under the trees a woman
+brought us a frugal supper, after which we set
+off accompanied by Aziz to find a hiding-place
+for the following day. A short distance
+brought us to a small Turkish house where a
+good deal of conversation took place between
+Keor, Aziz and the owner. Finally, we were
+taken into a maize-field and camped under
+a tree in the centre. The maize was seven
+or eight feet in height, so that we were well
+concealed. Our host brought us some bedding,
+consisting of a couple of old mattresses
+and quilts. During the following days we
+had a pretty thorough experience of the
+delights of such bedding, and came to the
+conclusion in the end that we should have
+been happier without any. However, in the
+present case it was not so bad and we had
+a comparatively undisturbed night. In the
+morning food was brought us by our host,
+which consisted mostly of a vegetable stew
+and coarse bread. The day was uneventful.</p>
+
+<p>We spent another night in this field and
+moved on once more the following evening.
+Keor declared it would only take us half an
+hour and I trusted it might not be far, as my<a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a>
+knee was not much better yet. It amused
+us to think what a trio of crocks we seemed
+to be. Tip had been ill off and on most of
+the time since we left Kastamuni. K. had
+been very unwell that day and suffered a good
+deal on account of his short sight; and I
+was dead lame. A few minutes after starting
+we met another of the akhardash, a very
+good fellow named Kasim, and conversed
+with him for a few minutes in the shade of a
+corn stack before proceeding.</p>
+
+<p>It was a fine moonlight night, and we again
+passed the German wireless station, which was
+now below us and between us and the sea.
+In not more than an hour, we got close to the
+place appointed and after a long wait were
+conducted to a spot which seemed very secure,
+as it was in the centre of a thick copse with no
+houses near. Another youth turned up here
+and, apparently, was the son of our new host.
+For the next three days we stayed here, this
+boy bringing us food twice a day and telling
+Keor all the local news. It was now we heard
+that Sweet had been retaken or had had to
+give himself up and was being marched back
+to Kastamuni. Later when Bihgar Bey and
+the others rejoined us they declared that
+Sweet had gone back with an escort of no less
+than 60 gendarmes. The idea of such a<a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>
+number being necessary tickled them immensely
+and they evidently considered it a
+great compliment to the disturbance they had
+caused, though they were genuinely sorry for
+Sweet and would have made an effort to
+rescue him had it been possible.</p>
+
+<p>Our menu was rendered more attractive
+now by our being able to get a little butter and
+some fruit. As we had to keep still all day,
+there was little to do except speculate as to the
+composition of the next meal, and with having
+only two meals a day there was a considerable
+interval between these events. K. spent
+some time in making up his diary and checking
+dates. Our friends could never make out
+what he was writing about, and would say,
+"Here there are trees and mountains but
+whatever can a man find to write about?"
+Indeed, they never could make K. out very
+well. Tip was far the most popular; for one
+thing the fact that he was an aviator roused
+their imagination, and in addition his good
+humour under all circumstances made him
+a great favourite. They always addressed
+him as Kaptan, but only called K. and me,
+by our surnames. The want of tobacco
+in the early days had not affected K. and me,
+as we did not smoke, but Tip had had to
+go very short; now, however, the akhardash<a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a>
+seemed to have inexhaustible supplies and
+were always ready to roll cigarettes for Tip&mdash;an
+art which he never succeeded in mastering.
+One day Keor informed us that some of
+the akhardash including Aziz had raided the
+German wireless station the night before,
+killing all the Germans and taking a lot of
+money. This was absolutely untrue, but he
+seemed to believe it and had evidently been
+told the story by the boy bringing our food.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">CONTINUED DELAYS</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>O</span></span><span class="firstwords">n</span>
+the afternoon of September 2nd,
+the third day in this wood, Bihgar Bey
+and Musa arrived, and announced that
+the friends from Boiabad had also come and
+that we should move on towards the sea.
+One of the new-comers had arrived with them
+at our lair, this being a stout fellow whom we
+always referred to as the Fat Boy: he was
+in fact the only pure Turk amongst them,
+the others all being of Circassian extraction.
+As it grew dark we moved off picking up
+some others of the akhardash shortly afterwards,
+and took a line which would bring us
+towards the coast while at the same time
+approaching Sinope. After some hours, it
+became evident that they were not very sure
+of the way, with the result that in the early
+hours of the morning they decided to stop
+where they were and reach the appointed
+place the following evening. At dawn a
+countryman stumbled upon a sentry guarding<a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a>
+a path near which we lay. He was thoroughly
+scared and was allowed to go, after having
+evidently sworn never to tell of anything he
+had seen.</p>
+
+<p>As morning dawned, rain came on and we
+moved under some bigger trees, where Keor
+very soon had a shelter rigged up, cutting
+down ash saplings with a dagger and using
+our sail as a cover. It was not a very
+efficient protection, but better than nothing
+and luckily on this occasion the rain did not
+last long. Next evening, under the guidance
+of a new comrade, we were conducted a little
+way further, finally halting in a maize-field
+until such time as some unwelcome guests
+had left our new host. This was an old Greek
+as poor as he was dirty, but he had evidently
+agreed to hide us until the boat was ready and
+we were much indebted to him. Finally,
+the Turkish visitors left the old man and he
+came to meet us. The first thing he did was
+to go off with one of the akhardash and procure
+a sheep for us. We had not tasted any
+meat for about ten days, and looked with
+great interest at the fine animal now <a name="tn_png_209"></a><!--TN: "pro cured" changed to "procured"-->procured.
+The old man then brought us bedding,
+and we are not likely ever to forget it. We
+remained in his care for nearly a week, and
+every day seemed to increase the interest<a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a>
+which these mattresses took in us. At daylight,
+the old man cleared a space for us in
+a neighbouring thicket, and we moved in
+there. All the others except Bihgar departed,
+saying they were going to prepare food for
+the voyage. Left alone with Bihgar the time
+hung somewhat heavily. He looked after
+us like a father and by our calling him this
+he was highly delighted. He played picquet
+with Tip, and did his best to learn a little
+English. The old Greek sent a messenger
+into Sinope for us, and we thus got hold of a
+few small note books and some playing cards,
+which helped to pass the time.</p>
+
+<a name="bihgar_bey"></a><div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/bighar_bey.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="433" height="700">
+<p class="caption"><a name="tn_png_210a"></a><!--TN: "Bighar" changed to "Bihgar"-->BIHGAR BEY</p></div>
+
+
+<p>After a few days in our first clearing, we
+moved to another, a short distance off, this
+being considered rather safer. There were a
+good many houses round about and people
+passed by a path running within 50 yards of
+where we lay, so that we had to keep very
+quiet. After three or four days here we began
+to get a little impatient, Bihgar Bey being
+somewhat indefinite; but at last one night,
+after going off at dark to meet some of the
+others, he came back and woke us up at midnight
+and told us to hurry up, as we were off.
+We hoped we might get right down to the coast
+<a name="tn_png_210"></a><!--TN: "andfind" changed to "and find"-->and find the boat ready, but this was not to be.
+After a second meeting under the tree in the<a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a>
+maize-field and a farewell to the old Greek,
+we set off down a lane and past some houses
+where the inevitable dog was soon aroused.
+However, no one came out and we got out to
+a field near the main road, where, after a
+wait of an hour, we were met by Kiarmil,
+whom we had not seen since the first day.
+At this point, the others had also met us and
+had with them a pony laden with bread and
+a little cheese, which were to be our rations
+on the voyage. The party now consisted
+of twelve of the akhardash and a boy with
+the pony, the latter not intending to leave
+the country with us.</p>
+
+<p>We learnt that they had had a long fight
+with the gendarmes the day before, one being
+killed on each side. Apparently, the gendarmes
+had rounded them up in a village
+where they were preparing the food which they
+had now brought. There were, they said,
+80 gendarmes, whereas they had only
+eight! Anyhow, our guide of a few nights
+before, a swarthy, powerful looking man, had
+been killed, but in the end they had succeeded
+in getting away from the gendarmes or driving
+them off. The story, naturally, lost nothing
+in the telling and we never quite knew what
+to believe. At first, from their accounts, it
+sounded as if they had deliberately invited<a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a>
+a scrap, and it was some time before we
+found out that they had been almost surrounded.
+They also brought the news that
+hundreds of gendarmes were being sent to
+Sinope from Kastamuni, but as there were
+never many at Kastamuni we were somewhat
+sceptical about this also. Crossing
+the main road, we found we were close to the
+sea, and a little further on entered a copse
+where we spent the rest of the night. At
+dawn we went still further in, and sentries
+were posted. Meanwhile, the pony boy had
+gone off on his steed to Sinope to interview
+the boatman, and we waited till the afternoon,
+hoping that we might hear the boat
+was coming to pick us up that night. Our
+hopes were dashed again when the boy returned
+with the news that the boat and its
+proprietor were not in Sinope, but had gone
+round the coast to the next port to the west.</p>
+
+<p>The akhardash decided it was too risky
+to stay where we were and, therefore, we
+moved again at nightfall. After following
+the main road a little way on towards Sinope
+we left it, climbing slowly and going farther
+away from the sea. After some hours they
+found that they had missed the way again,
+although we were close to our destination,
+which was the inevitable akhardash's house.<a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a>
+Making across some fields and hedges, we
+gained a lane, but soon had to leave this,
+as carts were heard coming along. Luckily,
+Turkish carts make their presence known a
+long way off by their perpetual creaking, so
+that we were all safely under cover by the
+time they passed. A certain amount of
+misunderstanding now arose, Bihgar not seeing
+eye to eye with another of the akhardash
+who knew best our whereabouts, with the
+result that we nearly split up into two or
+more groups in the darkness.</p>
+
+<p>However, we eventually all got together
+again, and reached the house of our new host
+or rather the field surrounding it. He came
+to meet us and escorted us to a wood close by.
+Here we slept till dawn and then moved
+farther into the trees. This old man was
+evidently a more influential "comrade"
+than most of those we had met so far. His
+house was a good deal larger than the average
+and he was treated with great respect. Another
+more humble supporter also appeared,
+and between the two we were provided with
+food. Late in the day, the old man departed
+for Sinope, and our hopes again ran high
+that he would be successful in arranging for
+the boat. Disappointment was once more
+in store for us on his return about six o'clock.<a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a>
+The leading three or four conferred apart
+with him, and it was not until afterwards that
+we were told that the Turks were so bent on
+preventing us leaving the country that they
+had had all boats pulled up, masts and sails
+taken out and guarded, and that no boat was
+allowed to put to sea from Sinope to eastwards
+of Kusafet, the place where we had
+been recaptured. The akhardash said that,
+this being the case, we must try elsewhere,
+and they proposed to march off towards
+Iyenjak, a little town about 30 miles
+westwards, where the restrictions imposed
+at Sinope would probably not be in force and
+where they hoped to get another boat. They
+said if this failed they would then go east towards
+Samsun, a distance of fully 100 miles
+across rough mountainous country.</p>
+
+<p>We were beginning to wonder if they ever
+would get afloat. On August 27th, when
+they had rescued us, they declared everything
+would be ready in three or four days.
+It was now September and our early sailing
+seemed more unlikely than ever. In addition
+to this our boots were nearly worn out, and
+physically we were not in particularly good
+condition. It looked as if they would have a
+much better chance of getting off without us,
+so we decided to offer to go off on our own and<a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a>
+leave them free. We explained that it was a
+hanging matter for them if caught, whereas
+it only meant a few months in prison for us.
+They realized this only too clearly, but would
+not hear of our leaving them for an instant,
+and declared they would get a boat, however
+much it might cost.</p>
+
+<p>Kiarmil, upon whose person all the wealth
+of the party had been concealed in various
+places when it was thought we were about to
+embark, now began to disgorge his treasure
+and divide it up again. Musa appeared to be
+by far the richest of the party and seemed
+to be quite a country gentleman. He told
+us he would lose his house, cattle and land
+worth thousands of pounds. These would
+all be confiscated by the Turkish authorities,
+but he confidently hoped with the next change
+of Government to return to the country and
+get it all back again with a little more
+besides. Some of the others were in a similar
+situation in a lesser degree. They had succeeded
+in changing most of their money into
+Russian notes which had somehow found
+their way into Sinope and Jerse, and these
+transactions had delayed their preparations
+a good deal.</p>
+
+<p>After a supper which included a little meat
+and was therefore noteworthy in itself, we set<a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a>
+off again on the march, but found we had left
+behind one of our party who had had fever.
+At the start, we made good progress along a
+road, but then turned off to follow a river
+down the valley. To find the track was not
+always easy. Many fences had to be partially
+demolished to allow the pony to get through,
+and no effort was ever made to repair the
+damage or conceal our tracks. After crossing
+a good deal of cultivated land, we reached
+the river bed and began the type of march
+we knew so well, crossing continually from
+one side to the other, stumbling along over
+boulders and rocks. About three o'clock
+in the morning, we reached a thicket in a
+lonely part of the valley where the sides
+had narrowed considerably. They decided
+to halt here till the next night, much to our
+relief. Cross-country marching by night is
+never a very easy mode of progression, but
+when an attempt is made to use a stony river
+bed as a road it becomes a prolonged torture.</p>
+
+<p>No incident marked the following day, and
+just before dark we were off once more. As
+dawn was breaking we reached the neighbourhood
+of yet another akhardash's house
+and went into hiding in thick brushwood
+which was soaking with dew. Just as we
+had got settled down, Bihgar for some reason<a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a>
+decided that we three would be safer elsewhere,
+and much to our disgust hustled us
+off to an equally wet spot in a thicket on the
+opposite side of the road. He was always
+prone to worry and fuss a great deal more
+than the others, and later on in the day, in
+a rash moment, I expostulated with him,
+going through a little pantomime to show how
+he had acted in the morning. The effect
+was startling and a great deal more than I had
+bargained for. He began by fervently kissing
+my hand, declaring he was our servant and
+that everything he did was for our benefit.
+I hastened to stop the flood of protest and
+affection which I had unwittingly let loose,
+but it was some time before he was calm again.</p>
+
+<p>That evening we moved on, having been
+fed during the day by the local akhardash.
+We were now under the command of the
+fellow we termed the Fat Boy, Bihgar having
+gone off with some of the others to interview
+another friend regarding a boat. This man
+never worried at all, and would shout to men
+on guard over the crops as if he were a countryman
+returning home late. The fires all
+over the countryside at night in this district
+were used for scaring wild pig from the maize
+and other crops. In nearly every field would
+be a small perch for a man, who would keep<a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a>
+a blaze going beside him and make various
+noises to scare off the intruders. Most of
+them had old guns of some sort and frequently
+a shot would be heard. The subject of pig
+formed a perpetual joke; the akhardash, as
+Mussulmans, declaring it was not good to eat,
+whereas we always offered to show them how
+good it was if they would bring us one. Another
+source of never-ending merriment was
+the prophecy that Tip would be taken prisoner
+when flying in France and again be sent to
+Kastamuni.</p>
+
+<p>Towards midnight we reached a big wood
+and, under the guidance of a new supporter,
+found a sheltered spot beneath lofty trees.
+The character of the country had altered a
+good deal since we had reached the coast.
+Here the rainfall was evidently a great deal
+heavier than it was at Kastamuni and the
+climate milder, with the result that all sorts
+of trees abounded and the vegetation was
+much thicker. This was the first spot considered
+safe enough by our friends for a fire
+and they soon had a fine blaze going. We
+lay down in the warmth and were quickly
+asleep. Our comfort was short-lived, however,
+as it began to rain heavily. A small
+oil silk sheet which had belonged to Sweet
+kept me dry for a time, but it soon became<a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a>
+necessary to move, as the fire had nearly gone
+out and another had been started further
+away. Tip evinced a wonderful power of
+being able to sleep when lying in a puddle
+and soaked through. The akhardash were
+experts at fire-lighting, under all circumstances,
+and skilfully arranged the logs to
+protect the inside of the blaze from the rain.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we moved on under the
+guidance of two sturdy lads, one of whom with
+the aid of an axe cut a way for us through
+the brushwood and made a track up the steep
+hill, along which the pony struggled heroically.
+On reaching higher ground we found
+a path and followed this a little further to a
+water trough, near which we camped, another
+fire being lighted at once. Our guide of the
+night before turned out to be a Turkish
+soldier on leave, but he showed little surprise
+on finding out who we were. The other
+lads had also been in the Army and, as far
+as we could make out, had been sent to their
+homes on account of the shortage of rations in
+Constantinople. They bore us no ill will and
+evidently thought that the Gallipoli campaign
+showed them to be the better soldiers of the two.
+They knew nothing about our having taken
+Bagdad and were quite ignorant of all other
+war news. The following day was fine at<a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a>
+intervals, generally just long enough to allow
+of our drying our clothes before it began again.
+Our diet had been limited to coarse Turkish
+bread, of a most indigestible and half-baked
+variety, with potatoes and meat which
+we cooked by toasting small pieces on long
+sticks; but now the bread ran out and for
+two days we lived almost entirely on potatoes.
+The erstwhile soldiers also brought us a
+number of small pears. For washing we had
+the trough, but while the rain continued
+and for some time after each shower a small
+stream flowed down beside our camp.</p>
+
+<p>The next event of interest was the arrival
+of a visitor who brought with him a sheep.
+We were told that this man had been employed
+in the <i>gendarmerie</i>, but was now also leaving
+for Russia and intended to sail in ten days'
+time. He suddenly wanted our party to
+postpone their departure, so that he might
+join us, but this was not agreed to. To show
+his good faith, he had brought the sheep as
+a present and no time was lost in turning it
+into mutton. A long pole was cut and supported
+horizontally on two Y pieces driven
+into the ground beside the fire. The sheep's
+carcase was scientifically balanced and tied
+to the pole and the roasting process then
+began, the pole being slowly turned in the<a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a>
+supports. We made use of our canteens
+and anything else we could get hold of to
+catch the dripping: butter had been scarce
+and any substitute was greatly in demand.
+Our experience in this connection was that
+coarse indigestible bread became much less
+harmful when any butter could be had to eat
+with it.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">THREE DAYS ON THE BLACK SEA</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>T</span></span><span class="firstwords">here</span>
+had been a certain amount of
+going and coming amongst the
+akhardash during the days we spent
+in this wood, but on September 19th Bihgar
+Bey arrived and declared everything was
+arranged. A boat said to be quite new had
+been purchased for 400 liras. This sum had
+been paid in hard cash, gold and silver, a
+fact of more interest than might appear since
+at this time not a single coin of any description
+was to be seen in the bazaars in Turkey.
+Notes had been issued down to 1 piastre
+and below this postage stamps were used.
+We again offered to contribute a share to the
+cost of the boat, but they would not hear
+of it. Nearly all of them had some gold
+coins, English sovereigns being as numerous
+as Turkish lira pieces. The following day,
+September 20th, our gendarme friend again
+appeared, bringing another sheep, which was
+cooked without delay in the same manner as<a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a>
+the first. We were to leave that evening at
+six o'clock, go down to the coast and embark
+the following evening. At last everything
+seemed to have been definitely arranged and
+our spirits rose accordingly.</p>
+
+<p>A dark night march followed over some
+bad going and as we got lower down we
+entered the inevitable river bed. This lasted
+for an hour only and we then climbed a hill
+and found ourselves in a small copse immediately
+above the sea.</p>
+
+<p>Since our recapture at the coast we
+reckoned we had covered about 150 miles,
+while our trek from Kastamuni to the coast
+must have been about 200 miles.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning the pony boy was sent along
+to interview the boat owner, and on his return
+we were told the boat was to come along at
+dark and we were to embark at eleven o'clock.
+The day passed uneventfully, and there was
+nothing to be done but to lie still and hope
+that no misfortune would upset the scheme
+at the last moment. On these occasions the
+akhardash posted one or more sentries round
+our hiding-place and great care was taken to
+make no noise. As it grew dark Bihgar
+told us to go to sleep and said he would
+awaken us when the boat came. No sign of
+the boat had been seen and they were evidently<a name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></a>
+much worried. It looked as if even now something
+had gone wrong. The pony boy was
+despatched again, and returned hours later
+to say that the boat had left as arranged.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, we had gone to sleep and did
+not wake until dawn. An awful presentiment
+seized us that another failure had occurred.
+However, as it grew light, the sentries who
+had not seen the boat the night before discovered
+it a quarter of a mile away across a
+stream with a fire lit on the beach above it.
+This had, apparently, been the signal, but
+for some reason had not been seen. No time
+was now lost in getting down to the boat.
+The pony boy galloped off, presumably to his
+home, and we trust never aroused the suspicions
+of the authorities. The sacks containing
+the bread for the voyage were carried
+down and put on board, and a kerosine tin
+and keg from the boat taken to the stream
+to provide the water supply. Meanwhile,
+others had been ballasting the boat with
+boulders from the beach. Just as the water
+was being brought back to the boat an old
+sentry emerged from a tumble-down house
+on the beach, which our friends had, apparently,
+thought to be deserted. He had scarcely
+taken in the situation before he was disarmed
+and tied up near the house. His Mauser<a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a>
+rifle and ammunition were all taken from
+him, and in exchange he was left with an old
+Greek rifle, but without a round to put in it.
+The last of the party pushing off the boat
+leaped on board, and with thankful hearts
+we felt we really were off at last. Our vessel
+was the usual type of coastal fishing boat,
+with a single big sail. She was about twenty-four
+feet long and between two or three tons
+displacement, but, whereas we had been expecting
+a new boat, we now found a very old
+one with mast and rigging that looked anything
+but trustworthy, the only sign of any
+recent attention being a little fresh paint
+here and there. However, we had left Turkey
+and had a boat and that was all we wanted.
+The question of navigation and handling the
+boat we left to start with to the akhardash,
+of whom several said they were accustomed
+to sailing and knew all about it; but we relied
+on Tip's experience to help us along if our
+other friends failed.</p>
+
+<a name="black_sea"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:527px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/black_sea.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="527" height="700">
+<p class="caption">BOAT IN WHICH THE PARTY CROSSED THE BLACK SEA</p></div>
+
+
+<p>The first thing that engaged our attention,
+when the boat had been pushed off, was another
+vessel of the same type which was very slowly
+making its way close in along the coast and
+was now quite near to us. The result of a
+short palaver amongst the akhardash was that
+they rowed quietly up to this boat, not a rifle<a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a>
+showing and all except the four rowers sitting
+down as quiet as mice. On getting up to the
+new-comer they all jumped up and levelled
+their rifles at the unfortunate crew in true
+pirate style. The crew had no course left
+but to accept any orders they were given,
+and after a few minutes' violent yelling
+and gesticulation their captain and one other
+were transferred to our boat, while Musa and
+the Fat Boy took their places in the other.
+Both boats now sailed off in company. There
+was a good breeze from the east and they had
+decided to make for Sevastopol; but it soon
+became evident that they had little idea of
+the direction as a course N.E. was taken,
+whereas Sevastopol lay rather to the west of
+the point at which we left the coast. Other
+diversions, however, put questions of direction
+in the background for some time. To start
+with, the spar in our boat very nearly broke
+in two and had to be lowered and patched
+with two small pieces of wood and some old
+nails, a makeshift which gave little promise
+of being a permanent remedy. This was not
+accomplished without a tremendous hullabaloo,
+in which Bihgar played a prominent
+part. Arms were waving and all seemed to
+be yelling instructions to all the others.</p>
+
+<p>During the process the end of the rope<a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a>
+suspending the spar ran through the pulley at
+the top of the mast, and it became necessary
+to get it back again somehow. The captured
+captain of the second boat made a noble effort,
+swarming up the mast and holding on to the
+shrouds like a monkey; but the boat was
+rocking about a good deal and after several
+vain attempts he had to give it up. This
+necessitated the mast being unshipped and
+causing more frantic excitement, especially
+when the moment arrived to put it up again.
+But, in the end, the feat was successfully
+accomplished and both boats sailed off in
+company. The breeze was strong and the sea
+choppy. Several of the akhardash at once
+became <i>hors de combat</i> and remained nearly
+motionless at the bottom of the boat for the
+next three days. It was a glorious morning,
+and, as we watched the coast receding, we
+were more than repaid for all the discomfort
+of the last few weeks. The Sinope headland
+stood out away on our right, and it was not
+till late in the afternoon that we were out of
+sight of the mountains. A small boat crossed
+our course soon after starting, but there were
+no signs of any pursuit or commotion on shore.
+We wondered what stories of our doings would
+reach our friends in Kastamuni, and were
+pretty sure that the Turks would tell them<a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a>
+we had come to an unhappy end at the hands
+of the "brigands."</p>
+
+<p>We now attempted to get our friends to
+steer a course more nearly north instead of
+north-east; but they would not do so, as
+they were in a terrible state of apprehension
+lest they should reach Rumanian territory
+occupied by Germans. K. produced our
+chart&mdash;the largest map of the Black Sea
+we had been able to find at Kastamuni&mdash;but
+it was only some three or four inches
+long and coming as it did from an "Ancient
+Atlas" showed the Greek colonies in 500 B.C.
+and nothing more modern. We were not
+sure of the exact position of Sevastopol but
+did not allow our friends to know. Whatever
+was urged had no effect and the course
+remained N.E.</p>
+
+<a name="black_sea_map"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/black_sea_map_small.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="576">
+<p class="caption">MAP (ACTUAL SIZE) OF THE BLACK SEA</p>
+<p class="center"><a href="images/black_sea_map.jpg">Larger Version of Map</a></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>When dark came on, it soon became evident
+that neither our captured mariners nor the
+akhardash had the least idea of steering by
+the stars; and, finally, about midnight,
+Tip discovered we were going about due east.
+We thought it was high time we took charge,
+and therefore arranged to take watches, one of
+us sitting up beside the steersman and keeping
+the direction a little west of north. The boat
+had no cabin, but the stern was decked across
+and we were allowed to keep this to ourselves.<a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a>
+All the first day there had been a good breeze,
+but it became much feebler at night. With
+dawn the wind grew stronger again, and we
+were making a good pace in company with
+the second boat when, at nine o'clock, signals
+of distress from her were noticed. She was
+about 300 yards from us at the time
+and it was impossible to make out what
+had happened. Pandemonium at once reigned
+on board and we thought by the commotion
+that our companion must be sinking. After
+much shouting, our sail was lowered, the oars
+got out and the vessel slowly brought up to
+our comrade in distress, only to find that the
+latter had broken her rudder. Much shouting
+now took place on both sides. Any thought
+of steering with an oar was never entertained
+and they decided to abandon one boat. As
+the captured second boat was so much the
+better of the two, an attempt was made to
+substitute our rudder in her, but without success.
+The result was that she was abandoned
+after transferring her crew, sail and spar,
+and part of her cargo to our boat. We were
+now packed very tightly, having a total of
+nineteen on board. Some of the ballast had
+been thrown overboard, but not enough to
+compensate for the additional load. Had
+we realized at the time that the second boat<a name="Page_216" id="Page_216"></a>
+had a valuable cargo of kerosine, the price
+of which was fabulous in Turkey, we should
+have made some attempt to salve her or, at
+all events, have set her on fire. This information
+was not divulged till afterwards, but even
+so it is doubtful if she would not have sunk
+before drifting ashore or being discovered by
+another boat.</p>
+
+<p>All went well, despite the crowd, until
+about midday, when the wind dropped altogether
+and rowing had to be resorted to. The
+boat was arranged for four oars and it was
+in this capacity that the captured crew proved
+of the greatest service. They were relieved
+at intervals by some of the akhardash. We
+calculated our speed when rowing at about
+two miles an hour, whereas for the first
+24 hours it must have been at least
+double this. I plotted our course as nearly
+as possible on the diminutive map, and it was
+annoying to see how much further on we should
+have been had we started in the right direction
+the day before.</p>
+
+<p>Our rations were the coarse bread, together
+with a little honey and butter which we had
+preserved for some days; but as neither of the
+latter could be said to be good they were not
+of much value. Some of our Horlick's milk
+was still left, and this helped matters along.<a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a></p>
+
+<p>The morning of the third day broke with
+windless serenity and rowing went on uninterruptedly.
+The sky was perfectly clear,
+but at midday we noticed some very small
+clouds straight ahead which seemed stationary.
+We held on our course, trusting that the
+clouds meant land. At 6 o'clock that morning,
+as far as we could make out from the
+chart, we were at least seventy miles from
+the nearest point of the Crimea.</p>
+
+<p>During the afternoon the question of rations
+and water was discussed, and we decided that
+if land was not in sight the next morning to
+take over all the remaining bread and water
+and distribute it ourselves, as the akhardash
+had not the least idea of rationing and used
+to eat and drink as the inclination prompted
+them. We had not liked to interfere before,
+but now it was a matter of necessity.</p>
+
+<p>The sun set in a glorious blaze, and just
+at this moment there was a commotion at the
+forward end of the boat and the word went
+round that land was sighted. It was anything
+but clear, but we took the word of the sailors
+for it and every one became much excited.
+Just before this event, Keor had made a fire
+in the bottom of the boat, making a hearth with
+some of the stone ballast and using some floor
+boards and any other bits of wood he could find<a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>
+as fuel. On this was cooked some meal which
+had been brought in from the abandoned boat;
+sea water was used to boil it and a very useful
+sort of porridge resulted.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">THE CRIMEA AND HOME</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>A</span></span><span class="firstwords">t</span>
+dawn on the fourth day, September
+25th, the land was very clear and
+we could see a lofty headland which
+ran steeply down to the sea. An hour or two
+later, we could make out houses and then it
+became clear that we were approaching some
+seaside resort. All through the previous two
+days, after we had taken charge of the steering,
+the akhardash had continually inquired
+whether the "road" was "good" and they
+were now more than satisfied that we knew
+the best way over the sea. Fortune had been
+with us, in giving us fine weather and clear
+skies by day and night; otherwise we might
+have reached a very different destination.
+Rowing on steadily, it was soon clear that
+the place was quite extensive and probably
+much frequented. Several large buildings
+could be seen and something which looked
+like a pier or jetty, to which we now steered.
+It was not until one o'clock that we finally<a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a>
+reached this spot and landed, to find ourselves
+opposite the baths.</p>
+
+<p>For days we had talked of the delights of a
+good hot bath and now we had come straight
+to the very place. We were met by a Swiss
+who was bathing. He hurried off to dress,
+but before he could return we were accosted
+by several other people, notably a retired
+Russian general and an American diplomat
+who lent us clothes and escorted us to the
+baths. After getting really clean once more,
+we were taken to a <i>pension</i> and made the
+guests of the hospitable Russian ladies to
+whom it belonged. They told us the place
+was called Alupka and was one of the most
+popular seaside places in Russia. Meanwhile
+the akhardash had been escorted into the
+town. In the morning they had begun to don
+their bandoliers and handle their rifles, but
+we persuaded them that they would be looked
+upon in a more friendly manner on landing
+if they abandoned these weapons.</p>
+
+<a name="alupka"></a><div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/alupka.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="436">
+<p class="caption">ALUPKA</p></div>
+
+
+<p>It had taken us 78 hours to cross the 180
+miles of sea, but actually we must have sailed
+well over 200 miles. We found that, comparing
+our position on the third morning with
+the spot we had marked on the map, we were
+only some twenty miles out, which, as amateur
+navigators, we considered quite good work.<a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a></p>
+
+<p>At the <i>pension</i> we were given lunch, and
+wine was produced in our honour by our new
+friends. We shall never forget their kindness,
+and the extraordinary feeling of being amongst
+all the amenities of civilization once more
+after two years under other conditions. In
+the afternoon, we were taken to the municipal
+office and there interviewed by a very business-like
+and intelligent lady who seemed to combine
+the duties of commissioner of police
+and most other municipal departments. Our
+friends told us that there was some difficulty
+in establishing our identity, since the commandant
+of the town&mdash;who a few months
+earlier before the Revolution had been an
+actor&mdash;was very suspicious and inclined to
+believe we were really Germans. In fact,
+some splendid stories were going about.
+According to one, a boat-load of Turks under
+the command of three German officers had
+attacked the town, one of the Germans being
+wounded. Tip had been to see a doctor
+and this no doubt lent colour to the idea.
+At all events, the commandant told off a
+sentry to shadow us about wherever we went.</p>
+
+<p>The akhardash, we found, had been accommodated
+in the central police building, where
+they had been given plenty of food and
+seemed to be receiving visitors. We bought<a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a>
+them some fruit and tried to cheer them up,
+as they had imagined they would be received
+with triumphal rejoicings and were somewhat
+crestfallen at being treated more like prisoners.
+Our first object was to get in touch with the
+nearest British consul, so as to put their case
+before him and get matters explained to the
+Russian authorities; but no one seemed to
+know where the nearest consul was to be
+found. We got telegrams sent off to our
+people at home addressed to the Embassy
+at Petrograd. It was hopeless at this time
+to try to get private telegrams through, and
+for mails from home we found they were even
+worse off here than we had been in Kastamuni.
+It was strange, indeed, being in a
+spick and span town, with well made roads
+and everything clean and up-to-date, after
+the filthy dilapidation which characterizes
+everything in connection with the Turk.</p>
+
+<a name="alupka_baths"></a><div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/alupka_baths.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="443">
+<p class="caption">THE ALUPKA BATHS</p></div>
+
+
+<p>Some people we met seemed rather annoyed
+that we had not struck a mine, as they assured
+us there was a large minefield through which
+we had passed. We discovered, later, this
+was quite wrong, but in any case our boat
+was of much too shallow draft to be in much
+danger. Others told us that we were fortunate
+to land where we did, as had we gone a
+little further east we should have come to the<a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a>
+estates of some of the Grand Dukes who at
+that time were interned under armed guards,
+with orders to prevent anyone approaching
+from land or sea! We were told that every
+one was on rations and that food was getting
+scarce. One of the most striking contrasts
+to Turkey was the magnificent fruit on sale,
+grapes, pears and peaches, all evidently cultivated
+with great skill.</p>
+
+<p>As we emerged from our interview with the
+lady commissioner, we were summoned to
+halt in order to be cinematographed by the
+representatives of some Moscow firm. All the
+educated people we met in Russia were kindness
+itself to us and made our journey through
+the country very pleasant. It was pathetic
+to be asked, as we were, to tell people in England
+that not every one in Russia is bad and
+worthless. All classes, we found, had welcomed
+the Revolution when it started, thinking
+a new and brighter era had dawned; but it
+very soon became clear that the pendulum was
+swinging much too far in the other direction,
+and no one would dare to prophesy what
+might happen next. Fortunately for us,
+there was no actual internal fighting taking
+place at the time and we got through the
+country without trouble.</p>
+
+<p>The following day we left Alupka by motor<a name="Page_224" id="Page_224"></a>
+for Yalta, a port a little further east. The
+road led past some of the Grand Dukes' estates
+and Livadia, the Tsar's Crimean palace. The
+scenery all along was magnificent, the pine-clad
+hillsides sloping steeply down to the blue,
+with white houses or palaces. Yalta itself was
+one of the most charming spots it had been
+our good fortune to see, and is easily equal in
+beauty to any of the Riviera resorts. From
+here we were to travel by night by a transport
+back past Alupka, reaching Sevastopol on the
+following morning, but before leaving a
+surprise was in store for us. As we had some
+time to wait, we went into an hotel, with the
+officer conducting us, for tea. This, however,
+we found was the headquarters of the local
+committee of soldiers and workmen, and a
+few minutes later we were asked to go into
+their meeting hall to receive their congratulations.
+This promised to be rather awkward,
+as we knew no word of Russian; but fortunately
+a schoolmaster who knew French was
+introduced to us. As we entered the room,
+the soldiers and sailors present all clapped
+vigorously. There were about 30 or 40
+present and it was necessary, as on every
+possible occasion in Russia, to shake hands
+all round. The schoolmaster then gave a
+harrowing account of our imprisonment in<a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a>
+Turkey and told them how we had eventually
+escaped and reached Russia. He appeared
+to say that we had been manacled in chains
+and endured the worst possible fortune as
+prisoners. After a suitable expression of
+thanks conveyed through the schoolmaster,
+we shook hands again all round and returned
+to our tea. This was our only actual meeting
+with a revolutionary committee, and we are
+bound to say they seemed to have no love for
+the Turk or any wish to leave their Allies in
+the lurch by concluding a separate peace.</p>
+
+<a name="yalta"></a><div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/yalta.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="442">
+<p class="caption">YALTA</p></div>
+
+
+<p>The transports steamed only at night and
+kept close into the coast for fear of possible
+submarines; so that the chances of our being
+picked up by one on our way over had been
+very remote.</p>
+
+<p>The akhardash travelled with us to Sevastopol,
+and on arrival there we met the British
+Naval Representative, Commander Sage, R.N.,
+who looked after us for the next few days.
+As he spoke Russian fluently and was in touch
+with all the highest authorities, we had no
+trouble of any sort. The akhardash were
+handed over to the Russian Staff authorities,
+who provided them with good quarters on a
+ship in the harbour. We three lived with
+Commander Sage on an auxiliary cruiser,
+the <i>Almaz</i>, which had previously been<a name="Page_226" id="Page_226"></a>
+used as a private yacht by the Grand Dukes.
+The akhardash had for some time wished that
+we should all be photographed together and
+we, too, were anxious to have such mementoes
+of our time with them. The Russian Staff
+very kindly arranged it and we had two groups
+taken, one with our original rescuers with
+their rifles and bandoliers, and one with all
+the others included. Unfortunately Keor,
+the old Armenian, was ill in hospital and could
+not be present. As some days had elapsed
+before the photos were taken, our friends had
+obtained new clothing and hats and, therefore,
+did not present the picturesque appearance
+to which we had become accustomed. As
+regards some recompense for all their services,
+we could not get them to accept anything
+more than what they had spent on our food
+during all the time we were with them, but
+the Russians paid them the exact sum they
+had given for the boat, so that they were not
+out of pocket on that account. As souvenirs,
+they had given us each one of their long
+Caucasian daggers, and we in return got wrist
+watches for them and a suitably inscribed
+cigarette case for Bihgar Bey. We left them
+in good hands and have often wondered since
+what has been their fortune. No men could
+have acted more pluckily in rescuing us in<a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a>
+the first place, or taken more trouble over
+our comfort and welfare during the weeks we
+spent with them in the hills and woods; and
+never shall we forget how much we owe them.</p>
+
+<a name="three"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/three.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="492">
+<p class="caption">THE THREE OFFICERS AND THREE OF THEIR RESCUERS</p></div>
+
+
+<p>After some days in Sevastopol, we said
+good-bye to them and went round to Odessa
+on the <i>Almaz</i>, where we made arrangements
+with the British consul for our journey home.
+At Odessa we were entertained at a most
+convivial dinner by the British and American
+Club. Like all dinners in Russia, it proved
+prolific in speeches, a start being made with
+the King's health, in the middle of the fish
+course, by an enthusiastic American. From
+these speeches we learnt how whole-heartedly
+the great American nation had entered the
+struggle and the efforts they were making in
+Russia, more especially with regard to improving
+the railways. Coming out of the
+obscurity of Turkey, these things were new
+to us, although by reading between the lines
+of the Turkish papers we had been able to get
+a fair idea of the general position on the actual
+battle fronts. Another speaker told a pitiful
+story of the position in Rumania and of the
+appalling lack of medical stores and awful
+ravages of disease in the Army. A visit to
+the races and opera helped to pass two very
+enjoyable days before saying good-bye to<a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a>
+Commander Sage and our new friends, and
+leaving for Mogileff, the then headquarters
+on the Russian front to which we had been
+summoned by the British Mission.</p>
+
+<p>On our way we passed through Kieff, a
+magnificent town, peopled very largely by
+Poles. Here we met some forlorn British
+gunners who did not know what was to be
+their fate, but were soon, I trust, back in
+England. After a day in Mogileff we went
+on to Petrograd. Travelling even at this time
+was very comfortable on the Russian lines,
+for those with passes such as we possessed,
+except for the temperature of the carriages.
+In some it was impossible to open any window.
+The result was that we all got heavy colds,
+although during the past six weeks we had
+kept fit while sleeping out in the open and
+occasionally getting soaked through.</p>
+
+<p>Petrograd was cold, wet, and dreary, and we
+spent our time in rushing about between the
+various departments before we could get
+passports and tickets through to Bergen.
+We, eventually, accomplished this by hard
+work in three days, and were then told we were
+fortunate not to have been kept at it for a
+week. It was necessary to borrow mufti
+to travel through Sweden and Norway.
+Clothes in Russia were practically unobtainable,
+but, fortunately for us, two naval<a name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a>
+officers at the Embassy came to our rescue
+by most generously giving us the necessary
+garments. We were also indebted to the
+Red Cross Depot at the Embassy for other
+assistance in the way of clothes.</p>
+
+<a name="three_2"></a><div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:1em;padding-top:1em;">
+<img src="images/three_2.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="495">
+<p class="caption">THE THREE OFFICERS AND THE AKHARDASH</p></div>
+
+<p>Tip and I left on October 14th, and after
+an interesting trip through Sweden and Norway
+reached Aberdeen ten days later.</p>
+
+<p>K., on the other hand, returned to the Black
+Sea. It had been hoped, and we had done our
+best to arrange, that an attempt should be
+made with the assistance of the akhardash
+to release some of the other officers at
+Kastamuni. Unfortunately this plan never
+materialized: for one thing our friends were
+moved further inland from Kastamuni before
+any attempt could be made, and when everything
+was settled on our side the Bolshevik
+rising had commenced and brought all plans to
+a standstill. K. reached England two months
+later, after having made a trip over to the
+Turkish coast in a Russian destroyer, and
+worked in every conceivable way to bring off
+the scheme for the rescue of the other officers.
+His persistent but unsuccessful efforts bring
+the account of our adventures to a close.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII</h2>
+
+<p class="chapterhead">FRIENDS IN CAPTIVITY</p>
+
+<p><span class="firstLetter"><span>T</span></span><span class="firstwords">his</span>
+story would not be complete
+without recording the deaths of
+Captain R.&nbsp;J.&nbsp;Tipton, R.F.C., and
+Captain R.&nbsp;T.&nbsp;Sweet, D.S.O., 2/7th Ghurka
+Rifles.</p>
+
+<p>Tipton, after very few days at home, reported
+again for duty and would not rest
+content until he had obtained leave to fly
+and fight over the German lines. For this
+purpose he had refused his majority. On
+March 9th he was severely wounded in a fight
+with a Hun whom he brought down. With
+great courage and skill he brought his own
+machine back and landed safely, but the
+injury he had received proved fatal and he
+died three days later.</p>
+
+<p>Tipton thus went back to fight at the earliest
+possible moment, feeling it his duty to the
+other officers left behind in Turkey, who were
+bound to be suffering for our escape. Although
+the youngest of our party, he was our<a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a>
+leader on the long journey to the coast; and
+to his unfailing good humour and tact we
+owed much more than we realized at the time.
+Although in pain for many days, he kept
+cheerfully on and would never give in.</p>
+
+<p>Few men have been more beloved by all
+with whom they came in contact, and his
+gallant death has left a wide blank in the
+affections of all who had the privilege to
+know him.</p>
+
+<p>Sweet, whose gallantry at Kut had earned
+him the D.S.O., was imprisoned at Angora,
+after being brought back from the coast,
+and exhibited to the other officers at Kastamuni
+for a few minutes on the way. He
+shouted to them to take a few days' provisions
+and try their luck, that it was quite
+easy to get away, and that he meant to start
+again the first chance he had. In reply
+they cheered him, much to the disgust of the
+Turks.</p>
+
+<p>After two dreadful months in the civil
+prison at Angora, he was taken to the officers'
+camp at Yozgad, a place 4,000 feet above
+the sea amongst the hills, in the very centre
+of Asia Minor. Here he remained till a few
+weeks before the armistice with Turkey was
+announced, when he fell a victim to the
+influenza scourge and died of pneumonia.<a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a></p>
+
+<p>In our escape Sweet was always the most
+indefatigable, and on many an occasion
+spurred us on when we three had no energy
+left. His knowledge of Turkish was invaluable
+and enabled us successfully to bluff our
+way along during the days when we were
+posing as Germans. It was only the merest
+accident that parted him from us when the
+akhardash arrived, and it is hard to feel that
+so small a thing should have ultimately
+resulted in the death of such a brave
+officer.</p>
+
+<p>The first officers who died in Kastamuni
+were Lieutenants Reynolds, of the 103rd
+L.I., and Lock, of the I.A.R.O., attached
+104th Rifles. Reynolds had been unwell
+during most of the journey up and, undoubtedly,
+had not got over the hardships of the
+siege; he succumbed within a few days of
+our arrival. Lock, who had been an indigo
+planter in Bihar, went down with peritonitis
+very shortly afterwards. Both officers had
+done well in Kut and were greatly liked by
+all who knew them. Their death in a strange
+country, after the worst of our troubles
+seemed to be over, was all the sadder to think
+of.</p>
+
+<p>The third officer who died was Commander
+Crabtree, R.N.R., of the S.Y. <i>Zaida</i>, which<a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a>
+struck a mine while patrolling the Adana
+coast. He, along with three other officers
+from the same ship, was sent on to Kastamuni.
+At Angora he was ill, but the Turks
+considered him fit enough to travel, and sent
+him on in a springless country cart over the
+140 miles of rough road to Kastamuni.
+Riding in a cart over this road is bad enough
+for a fit man, but in his case it must have
+simply jolted him to death. At all events,
+he arrived dying, and never regained consciousness.</p>
+
+<p>Another sad death occurred amongst the
+officers after they had been moved to Changri
+from Kastamuni. On Christmas Day, 1917,
+Major Corbett, 48th Pioneers, died suddenly
+from an aneurism of the heart after some
+strenuous tobogganing, which had been
+allowed as a special concession.</p>
+
+<p>Major Corbett was one of those officers
+who assisted our party to escape and would
+himself have come with us had he considered
+there was any small chance of success. To
+the camp at Kastamuni he was invaluable
+as staff officer to the lower group of houses,
+always energetic and cheery and turning
+his hand to something. Carpentry formed
+his chief occupation when not playing
+games.<a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a></p>
+
+<p>He was one of those men whom we felt
+we simply could not do without, and his loss
+may well be imagined in the camp at Changri,
+where conditions had been rough and painful
+in the extreme.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a>
+<h2><a name="APPENDIX_A" id="APPENDIX_A"></a>APPENDIX A<br><br><i>GARRISON OF KUT</i></h2>
+
+
+
+
+<h3 class="smcap" style="padding-top:.5em;">Headquarters</h3>
+
+
+<table border="0" width="100%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" summary="Garrison of Kut" align="center">
+
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td valign="middle" align="center" width="47%" rowspan="4">16th Infantry Brigade,<br>
+<span class="smcap">Maj.-Gen. Delamain</span>.</td>
+<td width="6%" rowspan="4" valign="middle" align="center"><span style="font-size: 3.7em;">{</span></td>
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">2nd Dorsets.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">66th Punjabis.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">104th Rifles.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">117th Mahrattas.</span></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td valign="middle" align="center" width="47%" rowspan="4">17th Infantry Brigade,<br>
+<span class="smcap">Gen. Hoghton</span>.</td>
+<td width="6%" rowspan="4" valign="middle" align="center"><span style="font-size: 3.7em;">{</span></td>
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">Oxford and Bucks L.I.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">22nd Punjabis.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">103rd Infantry.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">119th Infantry.</span></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td valign="middle" align="center" width="47%" rowspan="4">18th Infantry Brigade,<br>
+<a name="tn_png_249"></a><!--TN: Period added after "Mellis" and "Maj.-Gen. Mellis." centered--><span class="smcap">Maj.-Gen. Mellis</span>.</td>
+<td width="6%" rowspan="4" valign="middle" align="center"><span style="font-size: 3.7em;">{</span></td>
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">2nd Norfolks.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">120th Infantry.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">110th Infantry.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">7th Rajputs.</span></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td valign="middle" align="center" width="47%" rowspan="6">30th Infantry Brigade,<br>
+<span class="smcap">Gen. Hamilton</span>.</td>
+<td width="6%" rowspan="6" valign="middle" align="center"><span style="font-size: 5.5em;">{</span></td>
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">2 Coys. Royal West Kents.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">3 Coys. 4th Hants T.F.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">2/7th Ghurka Rifles.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">24th Punjabis.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">67th Punjabis.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="middle">
+<td width="47%"><span class="toc">76th Punjabis.</span></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a>
+
+<h3 style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;" class="smcap"><a name="Divisional_Troops" id="Divisional_Troops"></a>Divisional Troops</h3>
+
+
+<p class="listing">17th Coy., S. &amp; M.</p>
+<p class="listing">34th (Poona) Signalling Co.</p>
+<p class="listing">Sirmoor Sappers (Imperial Service).</p>
+<p class="listing">1 Squadron 7th Hariana Lancers.</p>
+<p class="listing">48th Pioneers.</p>
+<p class="listing">63rd, 76th, 82nd Batteries, R.F.A. 18 guns, 18 pdr.</p>
+<p class="listing">104th Battery, R.G.A. 2 4" guns.</p>
+<p class="listing">84th Battery, R.G.A. 4 5" guns.</p>
+<p class="listing">Volunteer Battery. 4 15 pdr. guns.</p>
+<p class="listing" style="padding-bottom:1em;">"S" Battery, R.H.A., left behind 2 14 pdr. guns.</p>
+
+<p class="listing" style="padding-bottom:.5em;">Naval Detachment. 4 4.7" pdr. guns.</p>
+
+<p class="listing">H.M.S. <i>Samarra</i>: 2 3 pdr. guns; 1 13 pdr. gun.</p>
+<p class="listing">Machine Gun Battery (6 guns).</p>
+<p class="listing">Supply and Transport, including Jeypore</p>
+<p class="listing">Transport Train, Wireless, Royal Flying Corps,</p>
+<p class="listing">Depot and other details.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3 style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;" class="smcap">Medical Service</h3>
+
+<p class="listing">One British General Hospital.</p>
+<p class="listing">One Indian General Hospital.</p>
+<p class="listing" style="padding-bottom:1.5em;">3 Field Ambulances.</p>
+<a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a>
+
+<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="8" cellspacing="4" summary="Strength of Garrison" align="center">
+<tr valign="top">
+<th width="75%" colspan="2" align="center" style="font-weight:normal;"><i>Strength of garrison at
+beginning of siege.</i></th>
+<th align="center" width="25%" style="font-weight:normal;"><i>Strength on surrender.</i></th>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%">British Officers</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right">301</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right">277</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%">British Rank and File</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right">2,851</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right">2,592</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%">Indian Officers</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right">225</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right">204</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%">Indian Rank and File</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right">8,230</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right">6,988</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%">Indian Followers</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right">3,530</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right">3,248</td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="right">Total</td>
+<td width="25%" align="right"><span style="border-top:1px solid;border-bottom:4px double;">15,137</span></td>
+<td width="25%" align="right"><span style="border-top:1px solid;border-bottom:4px double;">13,309</span></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<p class="listing" style="padding-top:1em;">Losses: Killed and died of wounds, 1,025.</p>
+<p class="listing">Died of disease, and missing, 803.</p>
+<p class="listing">Arab population of Kut (?) 3,700.</p>
+<p class="listing">Animals (horses and mules) before killing for food, 3,000.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a>
+<h2><a name="APPENDIX_B" id="APPENDIX_B"></a>APPENDIX B</h2>
+
+
+<p>Copy of translation of pamphlets thrown
+over from Turkish trenches towards our
+line during the earlier part of the siege and
+picked up between the two old lines when
+these had been evacuated on Jan. 21st.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p><span class="smcap">Oh dear Indian Brethren</span>,</p>
+
+<p>You understand the fact well that God
+has created this war for the sake of setting
+India free from the hands of the cruel English.
+That is the reason why all the Rajahs and
+Nawabs with the help of Brave Indian soldiers
+are at present creating disturbances in all
+parts of India and are forcing the English
+out of the country. Consequently not a
+single Englishman is to be seen in the N.W.
+Frontier of India districts of Saad, Chakdara,
+Mohmand and Kohat. Brave Indian soldiers
+have killed several of their officers at Singapore,
+Secunderabad and Meerut cantonments.
+Many of the Indian soldiers have on several
+occasions joined our allies the Turks, Germans,
+and Austrians of which you must have heard.<a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a></p>
+
+<p>O heroes! our friends the Turks, Germans
+and Austrians are trying merely for the freedom
+of our country (India) from the English
+and you being Indians are fighting against
+them thus causing delay. On seeing your
+degraded position one feels severely ashamed
+(lit. 'blood in the eyes') that you have not
+got fed up of their disgraceful conduct and
+hatred towards you.</p>
+
+<p>You should remember how cruelly were
+Maharajah Ranjit Singh of the Punjab and
+Sultan Tipu treated by the English govt.,
+and now when our beloved country is being
+released from their cruel clutches you should
+not delay the freedom of your country and
+try to restore happiness to the souls of your
+forefathers as you come from the same heroic
+generation to which the brave soldiers of the
+Dardanelles and Egypt belong.</p>
+
+<p>You must have heard about the recent
+fighting in the Dardanelles when Lord Hamilton
+was wounded and Lord Kitchener
+cowardly ran away at night taking with him
+only the British soldiers from the Dardanelles
+siege and leaving behind the Indian soldiers
+who on seeing this murdered all their officers
+and joined the Turks.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly everywhere we find that our Indian
+soldiers are leaving the British. Is it not a<a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a>
+pity that you still go on assisting them?
+Just consider that these and we have left
+our homes and country and are fighting only
+for rupees fifteen or twenty; a subaltern
+20 or 25 years old is drawing a handsome
+amount as salary from Indian money while
+our old Risaldar and Subadar majors are paid
+nothing like him&mdash;and even a British soldier
+does not salute them. Is that all the respect
+and share of wealth for the sake of which
+we should let them enjoy our country?</p>
+
+<p>For instance see how many of you Indian
+soldiers were killed and wounded during the
+battle of Ctesiphon and there is nobody to
+look after the families of your deceased and
+wounded brothers. Just compare the pay
+a British soldier draws with that which you
+get. Brethren hurry up, the British Kingdom
+is going to ruins now. Bulgaria gave them
+several defeats, Ireland and the Transvaal
+are out of their possessions of which perhaps
+you already know.</p>
+
+<p>H.M. the Sultan's brave Turkish forces
+which were engaged at the Bulgar frontier
+before are now coming over this side in lacs
+for the purpose of setting India at liberty.</p>
+
+<p>We were forced by the British to leave our
+beloved country for good and had to live
+in America, but on hearing the news of our<a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a>
+country being freed from English hands we
+came here via Germany and found our
+Indian brethren fighting against H.M. Sultan.</p>
+
+<p>Other nations are trying to restore us
+freedom from the British, but it appears we
+do not like to be freed from slavery, hence we
+are fighting against our friends the Turks.</p>
+
+<p>Brethren, what is done, that is done, and
+now you should murder all your officers and
+come over to join H.M. Sultan's Army like
+our brave Indian soldiers did in Egypt and
+the Dardanelles. All the officers of this force
+and Arabs have received orders from the
+Sultan that any Indian soldier, irrespective
+of any caste, a Sikh, Rajput, Mahratta,
+Gurkha, Pathan, Shiah or Syed, who come to
+join the Turks should be granted a handsome
+pay and land for cultivation if they like to
+settle in the Sultan's territory. So you must
+not miss the chance of murdering your officers
+and joining the Turks, helping them to restore
+your freedom.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-top:1.2em;">Dated <i>28th December</i>, 1915.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-top:1.2em;">Printed and distributed by the Indian
+National Society.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-top:1.2em;">Translated from originals in Urdu and
+Pushtu or Punjabi.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a>
+<h2><a name="APPENDIX_C" id="APPENDIX_C"></a>APPENDIX C</h2>
+
+
+<p>Comparison of rations issued in Kut at
+the middle of April, 1916, with full service
+rations.</p>
+
+
+<h3 style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;" class="smcap">British</h3>
+<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" summary="Comparison of Rations" align="center">
+<tr valign="top">
+<th width="50%" align="center" style="font-weight:normal"><i>Normal Field Service.</i></th>
+<th align="center" width="50%" style="font-weight:normal"><i>In Kut.</i></th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Bread, 1&frac14; lb.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">4 oz. (from April 17th).</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Fresh meat, 1&frac14; lb.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">1&frac14;-1&frac12; lb. (horse and mule).</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Potatoes and vegetables, &frac12; lb.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil. (except s&aacute;g).</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Bacon, 3 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">(or butter 1&frac12; oz. twice a week).</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Tea, 5/8 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Sugar, 3 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Salt, &frac12; oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Jam, 4 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Cheese, 3 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Ginger, &mdash;</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">1/3 oz.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a>
+
+
+<h3 style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;" class="smcap">Indian</h3>
+
+<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" summary="Comparison of Rations" align="center">
+<tr valign="top">
+<th width="50%" align="center" style="font-weight:normal" colspan="2"><i>Normal Field Service.</i></th>
+<th align="center" width="50%" style="font-weight:normal"><i>In Kut.</i></th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Atta (wheat meal), 1&frac12; lb.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt" colspan="2">4 oz. (barley meal).</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Ghi, 2 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">&frac12; oz.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Dal, 4 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Meat, 4 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">9 oz. (horse).</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Gur, 1 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Potatoes, 2 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" colspan="2">Tea, 1/3 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Nil.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td width="35%" align="left" class="indnt">Ginger, 1/3 oz.</td>
+<td valign="middle" align="left" width="15%" rowspan="5"><span
+style="font-size:6em;">}</span></td>
+<td valign="middle" align="left" width="50%" class="indnt" rowspan="5">1/8 oz.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="35%" align="left" class="indnt">Chillies, 1/6 oz.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="35%" align="left" class="indnt">Turmeric, 1/6 oz.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="35%" align="left" class="indnt">Garlic, 1/6 oz.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="35%" align="left" class="indnt">Salt, &frac12; oz.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244"></a>
+<h2><a name="APPENDIX_D" id="APPENDIX_D"></a>APPENDIX D</h2>
+
+<h3 style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;" class="smcap">Rations at end of Siege</h3>
+
+
+<p>All except meat and ginger dropped by
+aeroplane.</p>
+
+<table border="0" width="85%" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" summary="Rations at end of Siege" align="center">
+<tr valign="top">
+<th width="50%" align="center" style="font-weight:normal"><i>British.</i></th>
+<th align="center" width="50%" style="font-weight:normal"><i>Indian.</i></th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Bread, 3 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Indian atta, 3 oz.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Sugar, 1 oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Gur, &frac12; oz.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Chocolate, &frac12; oz.</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Dal, 1 oz.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt" rowspan="3">Meat, 1&frac12; lb. (horse or mule).</td>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt"> Salt, 1/8 oz.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr valign="top">
+<td width="50%" align="left" class="indnt">Ginger, 1/8 oz.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="left" width="50%" class="indnt">Meat, 9 oz. (horse).</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245"></a>
+
+
+<div style="border-top:2px solid;border-left:2px solid;border-right:2px solid;border-color:black; margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;">
+<div class="center" style="padding-bottom:.7em;padding-top:.75em;margin-right:10%;margin-left:10%">
+<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: 1.2em;display:block;padding-bottom:.3em;">JOHN LANE'S<br></span>
+<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: 1.4em; word-spacing:.3em;">"ON ACTIVE SERVICE"<br></span>
+<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: 1.2em;padding-top:.3em;display:block;">SERIES.</span>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="linearound">
+<div class="center" style="padding-bottom:.7em;padding-top:.75em;margin-right:10%;margin-left:10%">
+<p>Now that the Great War is definitely over it is
+necessary to get it adequately chronicled. Of
+necessity we must have comprehensive surveys of
+the war, formal histories in many volumes; but the
+real history of the great conflict is to be found not
+so much in these, as in the vital pieces of descriptive
+literature which our fighting men have struck off,
+often while the drama was being enacted before
+their eyes. It is with the object of getting together
+a really vivid and actual record of the world conflict,
+which will be of service not only to ourselves,
+but to our children, that the "ON ACTIVE
+SERVICE" Series has been formed. It consists of
+a number of volumes, uniform in format and
+production, which have been selected as being
+representative of particular aspects or phases of the
+war, written by soldiers, sailors and others who have
+witnessed or actually participated in what they
+describe. Here, in these personal experiences of
+our men, is an enduring record of the last four or
+five years; a record which, more surely than any
+formal histories, will carry forward the memory of
+those tragic but glorious days.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246"></a>
+
+<h2 style="font-style:italic">THE FOLLOWING VOLUMES HAVE ALREADY BEEN PUBLISHED</h2>
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">DOVER DURING THE DARK DAYS.</span>
+By a "Dug-out" (<span class="smcap">Lt. Comm. Stanley Coxon</span>, R.N.V.R. Author of "And
+That Reminds Me.") With contributions by other officers
+of the DOVER PATROL. <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<b>7/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">This book lifts the veil which was so closely
+drawn over the operations of the Navy during
+war-time. It gives accounts of many engagements
+and scraps with the enemy, written by actual
+participants, and forms a valuable contribution to
+the history of our navy during the most momentous
+years of its existence.</p>
+
+<p class="adquote">"<i>The real thing.</i>"&mdash;<i>Daily Express.</i></p>
+<p class="adquote">"<i>Makes good reading.</i>"&mdash;<i>Times.</i></p>
+<p class="adquote">"<i>Spirited and exciting.</i>"&mdash;<i>Yorkshire Observer.</i></p>
+<p class="adquote">"<i>The book has many fine pages in it.</i>"&mdash;<i>Evening News.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">TEMPORARY CRUSADERS.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">Cecil Summers</span>, author
+of "Temporary Heroes." <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<b>4/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">A further volume by the author of the very
+successful "Temporary Heroes," describing his
+experiences in France, Palestine, Egypt and Italy.</p>
+
+<p class="adquote">"<i>A cheery, chatty chronicle. The author has a keen
+eye for the humour of circumstance and a most
+beguiling way."</i>&mdash;<i>Morning Post.</i></p>
+<p class="adquote"><i>Bright and exhilarating. It is sure to be read widely.</i>"&mdash;<i>Scotsman.</i></p>
+<p class="adquote">""<i>Even more hearty and sincere than the successful
+'Temporary Heroes.'</i>"&mdash;<i>Liverpool Courier.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">THE BOY WITH THE GUNS.</span>
+By the late <span class="smcap">Lieut.
+G.&nbsp;W.&nbsp;Taylor</span>. Edited by his sister <span class="smcap">Mrs. Roger
+Cookson</span>. With an introduction by <span class="smcap">Sir James
+Crichton-Browne</span>. With Illustrations and Maps. <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<b>5/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">This is a vividly realistic account of the work done
+and hardships endured by our Royal Field Artillery
+in the war, and of their "hair-breadth 'scapes in
+the imminent deadly breach" in France and
+Flanders, by one who went through them all and
+made the supreme sacrifice.</p>
+
+<a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a>
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">PUSHING WATER.</span>
+By R.N.V. (<span class="smcap">Lieut. Eric Dawson</span>.) <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<b>4/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">"Pushing Water" reveals a phase of warfare of
+which the world knows little or nothing. It is the
+story of the "Movy" of submarine-hunting and
+mine sweeping in perilous seas, of duties faithfully
+accomplished, without expectation of fame or
+reward. As a sidelight on a branch of the Navy's
+activities it has a good deal of interest, but the book
+would recommend itself on the score of its quiet
+humour and abundant anecdote alone.</p>
+
+<p class="adquote">"<i>This entertaining book ... a vivid picture of existence
+on a 'Movy.'</i>"&mdash;<i>Sunday Times.</i></p>
+<p class="adquote">"<i>An animated narrative.</i>"&mdash;<i>Scotsman.</i></p>
+<p class="adquote">"<i>Described with real humour ... decidedly interesting.</i>"&mdash;<i>Birmingham
+Post.</i></p>
+
+
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">A HANDFUL OF AUSSEYS.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">C.&nbsp;Hampton Thorp</span>,
+A.I.F., with a foreword by General Sir William Birdwood,
+K.C.B., K.C.S.I., K.C.M.G., etc., and an Introductory
+Poem by Robert Bridges, Poet Laureate. With Illustrations
+by James F.&nbsp;Scott. <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<b>7/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">"A Handful of Ausseys" is the only book from
+the pen of an Australian soldier which deals intimately
+with the troopship voyage between the
+Commonwealth and England, and the more detailed
+side of the Soldier's life in England before he goes
+across the Channel.</p>
+
+<p class="adquote">"<i>Well justifies its place among war books, for it is well
+written, graphic and amusing, and full of facts and
+anecdotes.... The illustrations are rather telling
+and rather original.</i>"&mdash;<i>Times.</i></p>
+
+<p class="adquote">"<i>Among the good war pictures of the present war, the
+description of this draft's moving up to the firing line
+deserves to find a pleasant place.</i>"&mdash;<i>Bookman.</i></p>
+
+<p class="adquote">"<i>Racily describes with much good humour and amusing
+anecdote the daily experiences of an Australian
+reinforcement ... these bright and spirited pages.</i>"&mdash;<i>Scotsman.</i></p>
+
+<a name="Page_248" id="Page_248"></a>
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">THREE CHEVRONS.</span>
+By "<span class="smcap">Orex</span>" (<span class="smcap">Major H.&nbsp;F.&nbsp;Bidder</span>,
+D.S.O.) <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<b>5/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">An absolutely authentic, cool record of what the
+author saw on the Flanders front from Christmas,
+1914, to June, 1917. It contains the experiences of
+a clear-sighted conscientious officer who keeps as
+close as possible to fact and maintains his detached
+judicial point of view. A book which both the
+military man and public generally will appreciate for
+its freshness and candour.</p>
+
+<p class="adquote">"<i>'Orex' has made a singularly successful contribution to
+war literature by the direct method of honesty,
+modesty and simplicity. His book is a pleasant
+surprise.... He expresses it all in an individuality
+of great charm, the charm of literary unconsciousness
+and quiet restraint.... In every respect a
+good book.</i>"&mdash;<i>Daily News.</i></p>
+
+<p class="adquote">"<i>Simply and attractively written, and quite worth its
+place in the ON ACTIVE SERVICE Series.</i>"&mdash;<i>Times.</i></p>
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">SOME SOLDIERS AND LITTLE MAMMA.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">Helen Boulnois</span>. <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<b>5/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="adquote">"<i>A book of singular interest.... Remarkable for its
+sidelights, on what may be called the domestic phases
+of the war.</i>"&mdash;<i>Daily Graphic.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">THE SILENCE OF COLONEL BRAMBLE.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">Andre
+Maurois</span>. Translated from the French. Second Edition. <span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<b>5/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">This remarkably amusing account of an English
+regimental mess by a French officer who was
+attached as an interpreter, has had an immense
+vogue in France, and its appeal to English readers
+will without doubt be equally wide.</p>
+
+<p class="adquote">"<i>Those who do not already know the book in French, will
+lose nothing of its charm in English form.... The
+humours of the mess room are inimitable.... The
+whole thing is real, alive, sympathetic. There is
+not a false touch in all its delicate glancing wit.</i>"&mdash;<i>Daily
+Telegraph.</i></p>
+<p class="adquote">"<i>An excellent translation.... A gay and daring
+translation.... I laughed over its audacious
+humour.</i>"&mdash;<i><span style="font-size:1.1em;">JAMES DOUGLAS</span> in The Star.</i></p>
+
+
+<a name="Page_249" id="Page_249"></a>
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">FIELD AMBULANCE SKETCHES.</span>
+By a Corporal.<br>
+<span style="text-indent:.3em;">Crown 8vo.</span> <span class="keepright"><b>4/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">These sketches by a stretcher-bearer are extraordinarily
+clear and actual. "Behind a Raid" is a
+wonderfully vivid piece of work; the reader lives
+every second of these thrilling hours, and the whole
+scene is touched <a name="tn_png_263"></a><!--TN: "in in" changed to "in"-->in masterly style. The other
+pages are equally fine. To the civilian they bring
+home the actualities of War; while soldiers of every
+class will enjoy them in their fine truthfulness.</p>
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">SAPPER DOROTHY LAWRENCE: The only English
+Woman Soldier.</span>
+Late Royal Engineers, 51st Division,
+179th Tunnelling Company, B.E.F. With Portraits.<br>
+<span style="text-indent:.3em;">Crown 8vo.</span> <span class="keepright"><b>5/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">Miss Dorothy Lawrence enjoys the distinction of
+having been the only British woman soldier, and in
+this book she sets out her varied experiences, first in
+Paris, where she did the necessary drills, and finally
+"up the line."</p>
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">A KUT PRISONER.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">H.&nbsp;C.&nbsp;W.&nbsp;Bishop</span>. Illustrated.<br>
+<span style="text-indent:.3em;">Crown 8vo.</span> <span class="keepright"><b>6/- net.</b></span></p>
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">More exciting than any fictitious story of adventure
+the main part of this book is occupied by the
+story of the author's escape, in company with three
+other British officers, from Kastamuni in Asia
+Minor. <span class="smcap">Mr. Bishop</span> was captured at the fall of Kut,
+and his narrative includes a description of the
+appalling long march from Kut to Kastamuni,
+during which such a large proportion of our men
+succumbed to their sufferings which were wilfully
+aggravated by their captors.</p>
+
+
+<a name="Page_250" id="Page_250"></a>
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">WITH THE CHINKS.</span>
+By Lieut. <span class="smcap">Daryl Klein</span>. With
+Illustrations.<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<b>6/6 net.</b></span></p>
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">The author of "With the Chinks" was a civilian
+in China who volunteered as an officer for the
+training of Chinese coolies who were brought to
+France to form Labour Brigades to work behind the
+lines. The characters of his charges are sketched
+with considerable skill, and the voyage via Canada
+and the Panama Canal to France is picturesquely
+described. The book forms a unique and interesting
+page in the voluminous History of the War.</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<h2 style="font-style:italic">THE FOLLOWING ARE IN IMMEDIATE
+PREPARATION:</h2>
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">TALES OF A TROOPER.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">A.&nbsp;Clutha <a name="tn_png_264"></a><!--TN: Period added after "Mackenzie"-->Mackenzie.</span>
+<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p>
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">These tales convey in the most living manner the
+experiences and sensations of a typical Anzac
+en route to the war, then landed at Gallipoli, and
+finally "knocked out" in the terrible battle for
+the ridge.</p>
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">A PRISONER IN TURKEY.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">John Still</span>, author of
+"Poems in Captivity," etc.
+<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p>
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">The author of this remarkable book was largely
+instrumental in conveying to the British Government,
+by messages, in an ingenious code of his own
+invention, sent at considerable personal risk, very
+valuable information regarding the treatment of
+British Prisoners in Turkey. In this book, which is
+an account of over three years' imprisonment in
+Turkish hands, at Constantinople and at Afion Kara
+Hissar, Mr. <span class="smcap">Still</span> gives a very forceful and vivid,
+but restrained account of the trials, sufferings and
+dangers through which he and his fellow prisoners
+passed during their long captivity.</p>
+
+<a name="Page_251" id="Page_251"></a>
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">WARD TALES.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">E.&nbsp;Chivers Davies</span>.
+<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p>
+
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">In this capital little record of V.A.D. work in a
+hospital Miss Davies combines very cleverly two
+points of view&mdash;the Nurses' and Hospital Staff's,
+and the Tommies'. The author has humour, insight,
+sympathy, and a very quick eye for a situation, and
+in the course of her sketches she synthesizes the
+atmosphere and outlook of a big Military Hospital,
+especially as it appears to a V.A.D. Soldiers, and
+others, will delight in the truthful and entertaining
+pictures of this admirable little book, as will all who
+have served, and are serving, in hospital.</p>
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">BEHIND BOSCHE BARS.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">E.&nbsp;Warburton</span>.
+<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p>
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">A cleverly written description of a young English
+officer's internment as a prisoner of war in Germany.
+As his experiences were thoroughly typical of the
+later treatment by the Germans of officer prisoners,
+his account forms a very valuable record of this
+aspect of the war. The writer gives the Germans
+credit for some kind acts, while laughing at them
+for their stiffness, pedantry and stupidity. He
+conveys a strongly actual picture of the whole body
+of prisoners in every camp&mdash;their ways of life,
+outlook, habits and feelings.</p>
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">WITH THE SERBS IN MACEDONIA.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">Douglas
+Walshe</span>. Illustrated.
+<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p>
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">This is a very bright account of war experiences
+in Macedonia, by an A.S.C. officer, who has the gift
+of making his scenes <i>living</i> scenes. Mr. <span class="smcap">Walshe's</span>
+narrative is very human, and he gives us an excellent
+bird's eye view of the country, and the tangle of
+races inhabiting it.</p>
+
+
+<a name="Page_252" id="Page_252"></a>
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">FOUR MONTHS IN ITALY IN WAR-TIME.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">Beatrice Thomson</span>.
+<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p>
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">This book gives a remarkably clear idea of
+hospital life, and also of Italian character and ways.
+It is a fine record of service, and in its quiet restrained
+humanity it is a chronicle which deserves to be
+widely read. The author served for several months
+in a war hospital in France, and her sketches of her
+patients' characters and her record of their talk and
+behaviour give us the real Italy.</p>
+
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">WITH THE CAVALRY IN THE WEST.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">J.&nbsp;D.&nbsp;Delius</span>. Illustrated.
+<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p>
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">While we have had many books describing the
+work of the Infantry and Artillery in the war, very
+little has been written about the part played by our
+Cavalrymen. The fact that their operations were
+restricted by the conditions of modern warfare does
+not, however, detract in the least from the interest
+of <span class="smcap">Captain Delius'</span> book, for it is a book of happy
+anecdote and amusing description, rather than of
+the more repulsive side of war.</p>
+
+
+<p class="indnt2"><span style="font-weight:bold;font-size:1.15em;">FROM THE SOMME TO THE RHINE.</span>
+By <span class="smcap">Major A.&nbsp;Ashmead-Bartlett</span>.
+<span class="keepright"> Crown 8vo.</span></p>
+
+<p style="margin-left:20%;">This is a valuable narrative of the last phase of
+the Great War. The author, who has the literary
+talent of his family has used his opportunities as an
+Intelligence Officer to great advantage, and his
+narrative is very clear, very picturesque and very
+human. He has seized the salient details of what
+he is describing, and his sincerity combined with
+his artistic gift, makes a moving, life-like picture.</p>
+
+
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style="border-bottom:2px solid;border-left:2px solid;border-right:2px solid;border-color:black; margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;">
+<div class="center" style="padding-bottom:.7em;padding-top:.75em;margin-right:10%;margin-left:10%;white-space:nowrap;">
+<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: 1em;display:block;padding-bottom:.1em;">JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD,<br></span>
+<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: 1em;">VIGO STREET, LONDON, W.1.</span>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<div style="border: dashed 1px;margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;margin-top:2em;">
+<div style="margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;">
+<h2 style="padding-top:.75em;">Transcriber's Note</h2>
+
+<p>Illustrations have been moved near the relevant section of the text.</p>
+<p>Inconsistent hyphenation and use of separate words have been retained for:
+<div style="margin-left:15%;margin-right:15%;">
+<ul>
+<li>down stream/downstream</li>
+<li>Eski Chehir/Eski-Chehir</li>
+<li>framework/frame-work</li>
+<li>goatskins/goat skins</li>
+<li>half way/half-way</li>
+<li>hillside/hill-side</li>
+<li>machine guns/machine-guns</li>
+<li>sheep tracks/sheep-tracks</li>
+<li>some one/someone</li>
+<li>tilework/tile-work</li>
+<li>trench digging/trench-digging</li>
+<li>up stream/up-stream</li>
+<li>up to date/up-to-date</li>
+<li>used up/used-up</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p>Inconsistencies in italicization and capitalization have been retained.</p>
+<p>Page numbers are documented in the source code.</p>
+<p>I have added links within the document to larger versions of the maps.</p>
+<p>The following minor typographical corrections were made:</p>
+<div style="margin-left:15%;margin-right:15%;">
+<ul>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_34">Period added after "line"</a></li>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_68">Space added before "the"</a></li>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_145">"Poor" changed to "poor"</a></li>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_199">Period removed after "Tip"</a></li>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_202">"A pparently" changed to "Apparently"</a></li>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_209">"pro cured" changed to "procured"</a></li>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_210a">"Bighar" changed to "Bihgar"</a></li>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_210">"andfind" changed to "and find"</a></li>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_249">Period added after "Mellis" and "Maj.-Gen. Mellis." centered</a></li>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_263">"in in" changed to "in"</a></li>
+<li><a href="#tn_png_264">Period added after "Mackenzie"</a></li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full">
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A KUT PRISONER***</p>
+<p>******* This file should be named 34069-h.txt or 34069-h.zip *******</p>
+<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br>
+<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/4/0/6/34069">http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/0/6/34069</a></p>
+<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.</p>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Kut Prisoner, by H. C. W. Bishop
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Kut Prisoner
+
+
+Author: H. C. W. Bishop
+
+
+
+Release Date: October 14, 2010 [eBook #34069]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A KUT PRISONER***
+
+
+E-text prepared by David Clarke, Linda Hamilton, and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images
+generously made available by Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries
+(http://www.archive.org/details/toronto)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations.
+ See 34069-h.htm or 34069-h.zip:
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/34069/34069-h/34069-h.htm)
+ or
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/34069/34069-h.zip)
+
+
+ Images of the original pages are available through
+ Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries. See
+ http://www.archive.org/details/akutprisoner00bishuoft
+
+
+
+
+
+A KUT PRISONER
+
+On Active Service Series
+
+
+[Illustration: KASTAMUNI]
+
+[Illustration: THE CASTLE ROCK (KASTAMUNI)]
+
+
+A KUT PRISONER
+
+by
+
+H. C. W. BISHOP
+
+London: John Lane, The Bodley Head
+New York: John Lane Company. MCMXX
+
+Printed by the Anchor Press Ltd., Tiptree, Essex, England.
+
+
+
+
+ TO THE MEMORY OF ALL THOSE BRITISH
+ AND INDIAN OFFICERS AND MEN OF THE
+ KUT GARRISON WHO HAVE SUFFERED AND
+ DIED IN CAPTIVITY THIS BOOK IS
+ REVERENTLY DEDICATED
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+The experiences related in the following pages are simply the individual
+fortunes of a subaltern of the Indian Army Reserve of Officers who had
+his first taste of fighting at the battle of Ctesiphon, and was
+afterwards taken prisoner by the Turks with the rest of the Kut
+Garrison, ultimately succeeding in escaping from Asia Minor. It is not
+intended to generalize in any way, since an individual, unless of
+exalted rank, sees as a rule only his own small environment and cannot
+pretend to speak for the majority of his comrades.
+
+The book is published in the hope that it may prove of interest to the
+many relatives and friends of the Kut prisoners.
+
+Acknowledgments are due to Messrs. Blackwood, the _Times of India_, and
+the _Pioneer_ for their kind permission to republish those chapters
+which originally appeared in these papers.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ CHAPTER PAGE
+
+ I. CTESIPHON 1
+
+ II. KUT 14
+
+ III. FROM KUT TO KASTAMUNI 34
+
+ IV. LIFE IN KASTAMUNI 80
+
+ V. ESCAPE FROM KASTAMUNI 104
+
+ VI. THE FIRST NIGHT 115
+
+ VII. ON THE HILLS 126
+
+ VIII. SLOW PROGRESS 135
+
+ IX. BLUFFING THE PEASANTS 147
+
+ X. REACHING THE COAST 158
+
+ XI. RECAPTURED 166
+
+ XII. RESCUED 174
+
+ XIII. IN HIDING WITH THE TURKS 184
+
+ XIV. CONTINUED DELAYS 194
+
+ XV. THREE DAYS ON THE BLACK SEA 208
+
+ XVI. THE CRIMEA AND HOME 219
+
+ XVII. FRIENDS IN CAPTIVITY 230
+
+ APPENDIX A 235
+
+ APPENDIX B 238
+
+ APPENDIX C 242
+
+ APPENDIX D 244
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+ KASTAMUNI _Frontispiece_
+
+ THE CASTLE ROCK, KASTAMUNI "
+
+ TO FACE PAGE
+
+ ELMEY BEY 48
+
+ MAP USED ON JOURNEY TO THE BLACK SEA 126
+
+ MAP SHOWING ROUTE OF ESCAPE 180
+
+ BIHGAR BEY 196
+
+ BOAT IN WHICH THE PARTY CROSSED THE BLACK SEA 210
+
+ MAP OF BLACK SEA 214
+
+ ALUPKA 220
+
+ ALUPKA BATHS 220
+
+ YALTA 224
+
+ THE THREE OFFICERS AND THREE OF THEIR RESCUERS 226
+
+ THE THREE OFFICERS AND THE AKHARDASH 228
+
+
+
+
+A KUT PRISONER
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+CTESIPHON
+
+
+In India, in the early days of the war, a newly gazetted subaltern of
+the Indian Army Reserve of Officers was sent for a month's preliminary
+training to one of the few remaining British regular battalions.
+Afterwards he was attached to an Indian Regiment, and, if fortunate,
+went on service with the same battalion. A great number, however, were
+sent off to join other units in the field. In this way I found myself
+arriving in Basra on October 2nd, 1915, with a draft for a regiment[1]
+of whom I had known nothing a few days before leaving India. However,
+the "Nobody's Child" feeling was very soon a thing of the past, and I
+was welcomed by a mess full of the best comrades any fellow could
+desire.
+
+[1] The 66th Punjabis.
+
+The battle of Es-Sinn had just taken place, and the 6th Division under
+General Townshend were then following the Turks up the Tigris above Kut.
+Our own fortune appeared to be to remain in Basra as part of the
+garrison; but, much to every one's delight, different news came a week
+or two later and on the 25th October we set off up stream, hoping to get
+right through to the front but with some fear that we might be kept at
+Amara.
+
+In those days travelling up the Tigris took a long time, and we spent a
+fortnight in reaching Azizie, a journey which can now be accomplished
+mostly by rail in two days.
+
+The regiment was accommodated on two of the river steamers, each having
+two big barges lashed alongside. The current is considerable and the
+heavily weighted steamer could only advance very slowly. In many places
+the river becomes very narrow, especially between Kurna and Amara, and
+much time was spent in bumping into sand-banks and struggling to get
+clear.
+
+We made short halts at Kurna, Amara, and Kut, the latter striking one as
+a horribly dusty and dirty little Arab town. Every night we used to tie
+up to the bank, as navigation by night was too risky with so little
+water in the river. On the last stretch to Azizie, we were warned to be
+on the alert for Arab snipers, and great preparations were made
+accordingly. A few shots were fired next morning, but nothing more than
+one Arab in the distance was seen. Other boats and convoys coming up had
+a much more lively time from raiding parties of the local tribes.
+
+Azizie was reached in the afternoon, and presented a scene of the
+greatest activity. The village itself consisted of only a few mud huts,
+but for some distance along the dusty bank of the river General
+Townshend's force was concentrated. Nothing could be a greater contrast
+to the deserted stretches of country through which we had passed than
+the bustle and life of a force about to advance.
+
+A few days later--on Monday, November 15th--the whole of the 6th
+Division and attached troops were on the march for Bagdad, the first
+stage being El Kutunie, some seven miles only. Here three days were
+spent and the final preparations completed. There was a little sniping
+at night from the further bank of the river, but this was quickly dealt
+with by the _Firefly_, the first of the new monitors to come into
+commission on the river.
+
+Great excitement prevailed on the night of the 18th when it was
+suddenly reported that the whole Turkish Force, which considerably
+outnumbered our own, was on the march to attack us and was expected to
+arrive and commence hostilities before morning. We spent a very
+industrious night, digging feverishly and wondering when the enemy would
+turn up.
+
+Morning arrived, to find many trenches but no sign of the Turks, and we
+later found that the previous reports had been entirely misleading.
+However, fresh orders were soon received, and not long after daybreak
+the whole force was off again, split into various columns whose mission
+was to encompass and annihilate the Turkish advance troops at Zeur,
+about ten miles further on. However, the enemy eluded us, as he had done
+previously, and got away just in time. After doing several miles across
+country in attack formation, always expecting to hear firing beginning
+in front, we found we had arrived in the position the Turks had just
+vacated.
+
+Next day a short march brought us to Lajj, a small hamlet on the river
+which was to be our jumping-off place for the forthcoming battle, and,
+as we believed, triumphal march on to Bagdad. All except the minimum of
+kit had been left at Azizie, whence it was to follow by steamer to
+Bagdad as soon as might be.
+
+Before leaving Azizie, the general had given all senior officers some
+idea of the problem we had to tackle, and they realized it would be no
+walk-over. The rest of us, fortunately, thought only of a repetition of
+the former successes, and that we should enjoy a cheerful Christmas in
+Bagdad.
+
+Detailed maps had been issued, not only of the Turks' position at
+Ctesiphon, but also of Bagdad and the methods to be adopted to push the
+enemy through and out of the city.
+
+At Lajj we were about nine miles from the Arch of Ctesiphon, built by
+Chosroes I. in the 6th cent. B.C. and round which battles had been
+fought from time immemorial. From the top of a sand-dune near general
+headquarters, the magnificent ruin was clearly visible standing up gaunt
+and alone above the flat plain. The Turks' position surrounded the Arch
+and stretched back on both banks of the river.
+
+We bivouacked one night at Lajj and at nine o'clock the following
+evening--Sunday, November 21st--the final advance began.
+
+Our plan was to surround and defeat the Turks on the left bank, where
+the greater part of their forces lay, and to drive them back on the
+Tigris or Diala River.
+
+The force was split into four columns, which were to attack from
+different angles, the "Flying" column being deputed to complete the
+victory by dashing on to Bagdad and seizing the Bagdad end of the
+Samarra Railway.
+
+At midnight we reached our station on some sand-hills about four to five
+miles due east of the Arch, which we could see very clearly as soon as
+it became light. It was a bitterly cold night and after digging in we
+lay down to get what sleep we could before dawn broke.
+
+The attack was to be begun by the columns further north, who had had a
+longer march and were further round the Turkish flank.
+
+There appeared to be considerable delay on their part, and it was an
+hour after the advertised time when our advance began. In the meantime a
+troop of Turkish cavalry had come out on a reconnaissance, but had
+thought better of coming up as far as our sand-hills and, after
+hesitating, retired unmolested by us.
+
+As we debouched from the high ground, we could see masses of Turks,
+apparently retiring in orderly formation towards their second line or
+still further, and the thought occurred that they were not going to wait
+even for us to attack. Actually, however, these were troops from the
+other side of the river being hastily brought across to strengthen the
+Turkish reserves opposite to us.
+
+Our particular destination was a point marked V. P. on our map, and
+understood to be the "Vital Point" of the Turkish line. It fell quickly
+to our attack, but was not carried at a light cost, and, still worse,
+was not so all-essential to the Turkish resistance as it should have
+been. Our advance was held up on the Turkish second line and,
+unfortunately, we were not powerful or numerous enough to break this
+also. The Turks had a fine position and their trenches were sighted with
+the greatest skill. Aided by the mirage effect, it was almost impossible
+to discern these trenches until right upon them; we, on the other hand,
+were out in the open plain, which was as flat as a billiard table and
+offered no cover of any sort. The Turkish front line was protected with
+barbed wire, and had they been provided with more machine-guns and been
+prepared to see things out a little longer, we should have fared very
+badly. As it was, we lost heavily in taking V. P. and the adjacent
+trench lines, and were too crippled to do much more.
+
+In the afternoon the Turks counterattacked; but our guns were too much
+for them, and they gained nothing.
+
+Evening found a confused force bivouacked round V. P. There were
+dreadful gaps in all ranks. About midnight I found my way back to my own
+battalion, to discover the colonel and M. O., the only two officers
+still carrying on. One other subaltern besides myself had been posted
+away from the regiment during the day, but, of the rest, only two were
+left out of ten who had gone into action with the battalion that
+morning. Other regiments were in much the same state, and it was evident
+that we had suffered terribly and had not completely smashed the enemy.
+Later on we heard that our casualties had reached a total of nearly
+5,000, while the Turks were said to have lost twice this figure.
+
+The next morning we took up our position along the Turks' old front
+line, and no more fighting took place until the afternoon, when the
+Turks came back once more. Attacks followed during the night and
+prospects were considered anything but rosy for us by those in
+authority. However, the Turks had had enough, and by next morning were
+again out of range.
+
+It was imperative for us now to get closer to the river for water, and
+accordingly the remnant of the force concentrated in the angle of the
+"High Wall," an ancient relic of the old wall of Ctesiphon, now a high
+bank, forming a right angle, each arm being about a quarter of a mile
+long. During the day the wounded were evacuated, being taken back to
+Lajj on A. T. carts. It was a pitiable sight seeing these poor fellows
+go. These were the days before the Mesopotamian Commission--springless
+carts were all that were available and a number of wounded must have
+been literally bumped to death over those eight rough miles back to
+Lajj. The memory of those jolting carts with their grimy battered loads
+of tortured humanity is one not soon to be forgotten.
+
+The night passed in peace, but the following afternoon the Turks were
+seen advancing in several columns, and we were given orders to pack up
+at once. Soon after dark we were ready, but it seemed an age until the
+head of the column got clear away and our own brigade, who were in rear,
+could move. Meanwhile the Turks were expected to arrive on the scene at
+any minute, and everything appeared gloomy in the extreme. Ammunition
+which could not be removed had been hastily buried. Large fires were lit
+to help our departure and endeavour to deceive the enemy. Cheerful
+prospects of rearguard actions all night over unknown country seemed all
+that was in store for us. However, fortune was with us again; the Turks
+hesitated once more and we were not attacked at all during the night.
+After a weary march through thick dust and sand, we reached Lajj in the
+early hours of the morning, and were greeted by a heavy downpour, which,
+fortunately, stopped just before we were quite soaked through.
+
+Digging was again the order as soon as it was light, and arrangements
+were made to give the Turks a very hot reception if they intended to
+come on at once.
+
+The following day digging continued, but in the afternoon we were again
+told to get under way, as the Turks apparently were close upon us.
+
+A long all-night march, only varied by Arab sniping, brought us back to
+Azizie the following forenoon. Here digging began once more, and it was
+not at first known if we should remain here and see it out or go back
+further right down to Kut, some 58 miles. The latter course was decided
+on next day and, having collected what little of our old kit we could
+still find, we set off once again southwards, and bivouacked by the
+river near Umm El Tubul, eleven miles further on.
+
+At eight in the evening, we were just congratulating ourselves on having
+at last a snug spot for a night's rest, when firing began and our
+pickets were soon driven in. However, the enemy did not make the
+expected attack during the night--which we spent in a nullah awaiting
+him.
+
+As soon as it was light, we could see a large Turkish camp, not much
+more than a mile distant. The first orders were that we should go out
+and attack; so we lined up for this purpose. Just as we were ready,
+fresh orders arrived, and we retired to the nullah while our guns opened
+with rapid fire on the Turkish camp. Meanwhile, there was great bustle
+in our rear, where the transport was being hurriedly got away for a
+further march towards Kut.
+
+We were told later on that the Turks thought they had only come up
+against a weak rearguard and were correspondingly dismayed by our
+gun-fire. They were said to have had 2,000 casualties on this day.
+However, they pushed on and we had to retire. Previous to this, Turkish
+shells had been coming over, but not doing very much damage.
+
+The old gun-boat, the _Comet_, and also the _Firefly_, were both put out
+of action while waiting to cover our retreat, and had to be abandoned to
+the enemy.
+
+By midday we had shaken off the advancing Turks, having done many miles
+across country which seemed to grow camel thorn in every direction. This
+shrub is most unpleasant to march through in shorts, and many were the
+torn knees in consequence.
+
+A few hours on the ground late that night gave us a little rest; but it
+was too cold to sleep, and we were soon sitting up round fires of
+brushwood which the men had lighted. Many of us had had no food since
+daybreak, and had to fall back on our emergency rations where these were
+still in existence.
+
+Next morning we were off once more, and after another long, wearisome
+day reached a camp only a very few miles from Kut itself, having done
+over 40 miles in the last 36 hours.
+
+Kut was entered the following morning, December 3rd, but it was not
+decided till some hours later what position we should take up.
+
+During the next two days we could walk about above ground without
+molestation, but snipers arrived all too soon, and by Monday, December
+6th, Kut was entirely surrounded and the siege had begun.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+KUT
+
+
+If the Turks had hurried up, they would have come upon us without
+properly dug trenches and we should have been taken at a great
+disadvantage. As it was, however, by the time they did arrive, we were
+dug in and had a good front line trench, although most of the support
+and communication trenches still had to be dug. After the first two or
+three days, all trench work had to be done at night, as conditions by
+daylight were not healthy.
+
+Life was not particularly pleasant during any part of the siege, and for
+the first few days we who were outside Kut had no dug-outs, all energy
+being spent on getting the front line firing trench ready. This would
+have been no hardship but for the fact that we had arrived back in Kut
+with a biting north wind, causing several degrees of frost at night, and
+an ice-covered bucket for one's ablutions in the morning.
+
+Throughout the siege, the Tigris formed our only water supply, this
+being carried in at night in kerosine tins by the regimental bheesties.
+Drinking water was purified with alum, which got rid of most of the
+sediment. Tigris is a poor drink at any time and seems particularly
+nasty when spoiling good whisky.
+
+On Monday, December 6th, the cavalry brigade left at daybreak and were
+the last people to get away from Kut. Many wounded and sick had been
+sent down stream during the day or two previously, the lighter cases
+being left in the hospital at Kut to recover and rejoin.
+
+In those early days, no one thought of a siege lasting more than a
+month, the general being reputed to be counting on relief by the New
+Year.
+
+Meanwhile, the Turks had been very busy: not only had they been digging
+at a furious pace opposite to us and sapping up closer and closer, but
+they had also sent considerable forces further on down-stream, to near
+Shaik Saad, to oppose the Relieving Force which was there concentrating.
+
+The night after the cavalry brigade had gone out, the boat bridge over
+which they had passed to the right bank was demolished under the noses
+of the enemy.
+
+This gallant feat was performed by Lieut. Matthews, R.E., and Lieut.
+Sweet, who volunteered for the job. Both men, we hoped, would receive
+the V.C. By the greatest good fortune, the Turks were entirely
+surprised, and the bridge was blown up before they realized what was
+happening or could offer any resistance. Both officers received the
+D.S.O.
+
+The story of the siege has been told in detail by others, and it is not
+intended here to attempt it. One saw only one's own small corner, and
+never knew what to believe of all the rumours and scandal in which a
+besieged town seems to be particularly prolific.
+
+After the first fortnight, a regular routine was started. The 16th
+Brigade took alternate turns with the 30th along the main trench line,
+while the 17th garrisoned the Fort, and the 18th looked after the town
+itself and Woolpress village.
+
+Meanwhile the medical people had been busy moving from their hospital
+tents to the covered-in bazaar, which was now converted into wards.
+
+For the first few days, the men were given extra rations to recuperate
+them after the wearying retreat and for the strenuous trench-digging in
+progress. It was not until January 10th that we were cut down to
+two-thirds full rations.
+
+The first Turkish shells arrived on December 5th, but did little harm.
+Throughout the siege, we had much cause to be thankful for the very
+large proportion of "duds" amongst all classes of Turkish shell.
+Fortunately, also, they had no high explosives, or Kut would have been a
+heap of ruins in no time.
+
+The mud of Mesopotamia deserves mention in this connection. It is as
+disagreeable as but rather more glutinous than most other brands of the
+same substance, and when baked dry by the sun is singularly impenetrable
+to rifle bullets. All the rules found in military pocket-books were
+quite upset by it, some eight inches of the best variety being quite
+enough to stop any bullet. For the same reason, trench digging in some
+places was very slow and tedious work, as the ground at that time was
+dry and hard, seeming more like cast iron than anything else.
+
+During the early part of the siege, regiments in the 16th and 30th
+Brigades, on being relieved in the front line, returned to a bivouac in
+Kut and did some hours' digging on the way, the operation being carried
+out at night. The following night was as a rule allowed us in peace,
+but for the next three or six nights, until again relieved, one was
+generally out digging or in "support" to some part of the line, so that
+"being relieved" did not mean much rest for anybody. The bivouac had a
+further disadvantage in that we had as many casualties here as in the
+front line. Dropping bullets would come in at odd moments from all
+directions, and it was impossible to keep clear of them. Some
+unfortunate was laid out nearly every day in this way.
+
+The Turks never once tried to shell our front line, but spent all their
+attentions on the town and the Fort. A tremendous "hate" preceded their
+attack on the latter on Christmas Eve. They succeeded in blowing a
+breach in the mud wall of the Fort in the north-east bastion, and
+afterwards assaulted with great dash. Fighting was extremely fierce and
+the Turks lost very heavily from our machine-guns. There was much hand
+bombing, this being the only occasion during the siege when fighting at
+close quarters took place.
+
+After gaining a footing through the breach into our trenches, the Turks
+were dislodged, but came on again later, and at midnight, December
+24th, were still in possession of the north-east bastion. However, they
+thought better of it, and by the morning of December 25th had all
+disappeared again. As a result of this fighting, we had about 400
+casualties, while the Turks were said to have lost 2,000. Be that as it
+may, they never made another attack on our lines.
+
+Khalil Pasha, the Turkish commander, was said afterwards to have told
+one of the British generals that he was just preparing another
+tremendous attack at the end of January, meaning to smash his way into
+Kut at any cost, when the floods intervened, and drove him back over
+half a mile, while we had also to return to the "middle" line--our
+second line trench some 300 yards behind the first. He stated that he
+was prepared to lose 10,000 in the attempt.
+
+Christmas Day passed peacefully, much to our satisfaction, and from now
+onwards there was great speculation as to the day of relief. We knew
+that General Aylmer's force was to start during the first days of
+January, and it was predicted that by January 9th or 10th the siege
+would be over.
+
+By the first week in January, all fresh meat was finished, but for a
+time we had "bully."
+
+The Relieving Force suffered its first serious check at Shaik Saad and
+never arrived, as we had hoped. There was nothing to be done but to
+carry on and wait till next time. The weather now was cold and wet and
+the trenches often knee deep in mud and water. Kut itself was in a
+filthy state, the streets being a sea of mud after every downpour. The
+Tigris was steadily rising throughout January and by the 20th was near
+the top of the bund running along the bank. Heavy rain on this day and
+the next, together with the rise in the river, was responsible for
+flooding out the Turks' front line. They managed, however, to turn the
+water over towards us, with the result that we, also, were drowned out
+of the corresponding part of our line, the effect of this being that
+there was now a good distance between the new front lines. For two days
+we could walk about in the open, and were much interested in seeing the
+old Turkish trenches, and taking all possible firewood in the shape of
+old ammunition boxes from their loopholes. We found that one of their
+saps was only forty yards from our trench, and many were the bombs they
+had thrown which just fell short.
+
+The most interesting relics were numbers of pamphlets tied to sticks
+and bits of earth and thrown towards our line. These were effusions
+printed in various languages by the Indian National Society, Chicago,[2]
+and contained much startling information. The Sepoys were informed that
+no British were now left in several N.W. Frontier districts, and were
+recommended, as brave soldiers, to murder their British officers and
+join the Turks. The Sultan was represented as being ready to give land
+to every one who would respond to this invitation. As regards Gallipoli,
+it was stated that Sir Ian Hamilton had been wounded and that Lord
+Kitchener had run away in the night, taking the British troops with him
+and leaving the Indians, who thereupon murdered their officers and
+joined the Turks.
+
+[2] See Appendix B.
+
+Very few, if any, of these leaflets reached the Sepoys, and, as far as
+we could see, left them unmoved.
+
+After two days' freedom above ground, a reconnaissance was sent out to
+locate the Turkish outposts. This had the immediate effect of starting
+great activity in the Turkish pickets some 1,200 yards from our line,
+and from that day onwards snipers were always busy. Even so, life was
+very much pleasanter than when the enemy was within 100 yards.
+
+By January 13th we were down to half rations, and by January 23rd were
+still further reduced. On the 26th, the general issued a long
+_communique_, telling us of how the Relieving Force had been
+unsuccessful so far, having had heavy losses and very bad weather to
+contend against. He announced that there were 84 days' more ample
+rations without counting the 3,000 animals.
+
+Actually the siege went on for another 94 days, but the rations were
+scarcely ample, even including the horse meat. However, at the time, it
+seemed that there was nothing to worry about, especially as the general
+said he was confident of being relieved during the first half of
+February.
+
+With the beginning of February, we started eating horse, mule and camel.
+There were very few camels, but they were said to be quite good eating.
+For the rest, mule is very much to be preferred to horse. There were
+also the heavy battery bullocks, but these were not numerous, and were
+very thin already.
+
+All the eggs and milk obtainable from Arabs in the town were supposed to
+go to the hospitals, but it was always said they did not receive nearly
+as much as they should have done.
+
+During January and February, one could buy several things from Arabs in
+the bazaar, i.e., tea, dried beans, atta and "kabobs" or small hot
+chapatties, cooked in grease. The tea must all originally have come from
+the S. & T. All the Arabs in Kut wore Army socks very early in the
+siege. In fact, it would be harder to find a race of more expert thieves
+anywhere on the globe.
+
+Towards the middle of February, the Turks began sending over an
+aeroplane to bomb us. The pilot was a German, and knew his business too
+well. After his first trip, machine guns were rigged up to welcome him
+the next time he came and the sappers mounted a 13-pounder to fire as an
+anti-aircraft gun.
+
+Considering the difficulties involved and the absence of all special
+sighting arrangements this gun made some very fair shooting. But the
+only effect of all these efforts was to make Fritz, the pilot, fly
+higher and approach the town from a different direction. The first time
+he came very little damage was done; then one day a bomb demolished an
+Arab house, killing a number of women and children, and a second fell on
+the British hospital, where no less than 32 sick and wounded men were
+killed outright or horribly injured. The padre--the Rev. H.
+Spooner--told me afterwards that no sight he had witnessed at Ctesiphon
+could be compared to that hospital ward. Presumably Fritz was aiming at
+the ordnance yard next door or some of the guns on the river bank only a
+little further on. Had there been more room and good buildings in Kut,
+it would no doubt have been possible to put the hospital in a safer
+spot, but, as it was, no other building was available. Fritz always
+succeeded in eluding our aeroplanes from the Relieving Force. He had so
+little distance to go home, whereas they had to come up 20 miles or
+more.
+
+Two main observation posts were maintained, one above general
+headquarters in the town, and the other in the Fort. There was great
+rivalry between the two, and on one occasion, a large flock of sheep was
+definitely reported in the town as a considerable force of the enemy
+moving to the rear. The Fort maintained they were sheep and neither
+would give in.
+
+We could see every day long strings of camels on the horizon, carrying
+rations for the Turks from their base at Shamran above Kut down to
+their forces at Sanaiyat and Magassis.
+
+The usual book of words about camels informs the reader that they are
+liable to slip and split themselves up if allowed to travel over wet or
+slippery ground. In Mesopotamia, however, the camel seems not to worry
+at all when going over land submerged by floods, and carrying on
+generally under all conditions. He is a much wilder specimen than the
+usual Indian camel, and our experience before Ctesiphon was that he
+would only lie down if one of his forelegs was folded and bound up, and
+he was then hit on the head with a thick stick.
+
+A feature of Kut which will not be forgotten was the little chapel which
+our padre rigged up in one of the few remaining upper rooms of the
+battered Serai. This building was in an exposed position on the river
+bank and suffered more than any other from the Turkish shells. The padre
+himself was indefatigable, doing everything he possibly could in the
+hospitals in addition to his other duties.
+
+Almost every day one or more of our aeroplanes came over Kut, and some
+things were dropped, but how we wished they would drop us some letters.
+We knew there must be a great accumulation of mails at Amara and it
+seemed so easy to arrange it. As it was, some bags of letters were
+dropped for the staff and even the S. & T. but, as usual, the regimental
+officers came off worst. We wanted news from home more than anything
+else, and, as it turned out, most of us never heard a word from our
+people till we had reached Anatolia the following July after an interval
+of eight months.
+
+Fortunately, we could get messages sent out by the wireless, and once a
+month a telegram was despatched to the depots in India, saying that all
+were well, or something equally brief but satisfactory to our friends at
+home.
+
+Another great blessing afforded by the wireless was the publication of a
+short summary of Reuter's telegrams, which gave us something else to
+talk of other than the everlasting questions of food and the date of
+relief. In particular, the taking of Erzerum by the Russians cheered us
+up, and made us hope that the Russian force approaching Bagdad from
+Persia would be equally successful.
+
+In fact, at one time the betting was said to be in favour of the Russian
+general, Baratoff, relieving us from the north, before our friends
+down-stream.
+
+With the arrival of March, every one was full of excitement over the
+coming great effort of the relieving force, which was prophesied to take
+place on the 4th, but was actually the 8th.
+
+Many schemes were prepared by which we were to co-operate, so that after
+the Turks had been started off rearwards by General Aylmer, we might
+hasten their departure. In most of these plans one brigade would have to
+play the leading role, and probably come in for a pretty hot time unless
+the Turks had become quite demoralised; much speculation arose,
+therefore, as to which brigade would be given this post of honour.
+
+March 8th came and went and we realized that another gallant attempt had
+failed. The bombardment could be clearly heard, and at night it was easy
+to see the shells bursting. During the attack on the Dujailah Redoubt
+our friends were only seven to eight miles from us, and we could hear
+their rifle and machine gun-fire.
+
+This failure was a great disappointment and we realized what it must
+have cost in casualties. There was only one thing for us to do, namely,
+carry on; so the rations were reduced again and life went on in its, by
+this time, mechanical round. All were still confident of being
+relieved, and when it became known that General Gorringe had taken over
+command down stream we felt sure something decisive would happen and
+that he would get through, if anyone could.
+
+After every unsuccessful attempt, a Turkish envoy promptly arrived with
+a white flag and requested us politely to surrender. He was as
+courteously and consistently refused.
+
+Rations were now down to 10 oz. of bread, this being half atta and half
+barley. The dates were finished and the small stocks of mess stores
+which had been carefully eked out were nearly finished. Still we had jam
+and tea and the mule wasn't at all bad. Some saccharine dropped by
+aeroplane gave us something sweet, and was a great blessing.
+
+The efforts to get the Indians to eat meat at the end of February had
+failed. They declared that every village pundit would be against them on
+their return to India and that, in consequence, no one would give them
+their daughters to marry.
+
+Everything possible to help religious scruples was done, and special
+permission obtained from the Imam at Delhi and other religious
+authorities; but it was no use, and not until the second week in April,
+when they were literally starving, did the Indian troops begin eating
+horse. No doubt, if they had done so earlier, we could have held out for
+some few days longer, but it is doubtful whether this would have
+sufficed for our relief.
+
+After March 8th, all horses not wanted for food were shot to save their
+keep, and many a good animal was sacrificed in this way.
+
+By the 19th, the bread ration was only 1/2 lb., while the Indians were
+getting 10 oz. meal. The small quantity of food began now to tell on the
+strength of all ranks, and cases of bad enteritis--so-called--were
+common, these resulting in many deaths during the last days of the
+siege.
+
+It is really wonderful what an amount of satisfaction can be derived,
+under such conditions, from simply imagining a first-class meal, and I
+remember one day, in my dug-out, having a great time going through a
+long menu and choosing everything I should like best.
+
+When the grass began to grow towards the end of March, we gathered what
+the Sepoys called sag or anything we could make a sort of spinach with.
+It was like eating wet hay, but, undoubtedly, kept scurvy down, and if
+well soaked in vinegar was not so bad.
+
+In Woolpress they managed to get a little fish from the river, fishing
+by night.
+
+Our activities after March 8th were directed to keeping out the floods.
+Two big bunds were made, one inside the other, round Kut. The Arabs in
+the town were forced to work on the inner one and thus saved the troops,
+who were weak enough as it was already with making the outer bund.
+
+By the end of March we had a splendid bund across the middle line
+capable of keeping out nearly three feet of water; this being 4 ft. 6
+in. high and about 20 ft. thick at the base, all the soil having to be
+excavated from pits in front. The sappers had told us that our mess
+dug-out was just about the lowest spot round Kut and would be the first
+place to be flooded; however, when the floods really came, we found we
+were two feet higher up than the regiment a little further along the
+line. It was hard work making these bunds, and all the men not otherwise
+on duty were out every night. The bund also had to form the firing
+parapet, and with barbed wire entanglements in the "borrow" pits in
+front and again beyond we were well protected from any attack, not to
+mention the floods which would have made an advance by the enemy almost
+impossible.
+
+All through April the water slowly percolated up and the dug-outs and
+trenches had to be continually raised, until by the end of the month we
+were nearly up to ground level. The river rose to its highest level
+during April, but fortunately news was received, by wireless, from a
+British officer with the Russians at Lake Urmia, of the various floods,
+so that we were more or less prepared. Actually we had never much more
+than 2 ft. 6 in. outside our bund, which held well. Had we been driven
+back inside the inner bund, the whole force would have been cooped up in
+a very small area and any shelling would have been bound to take a large
+toll.
+
+For the last ten days there was no tobacco left. People were smoking
+used-up tea-leaves, orange leaves, liquorice, and even grass. Whatever
+smoking tea-leaves may be like for the smoker, it is exceedingly
+unpleasant for everybody else, especially in a dug-out.
+
+Throughout the April fighting we followed each _communique_ from General
+Gorringe with the greatest anxiety, watching his shells bursting over
+the Turkish lines by night and always hoping on until after the _Julnar_
+had failed to get through.
+
+The men were not told anything about this attempt, but the 30th Brigade
+made ready to cover the unloading, in the event of the gallant ship
+winning through. She was to be beached by the Fort the same night and
+unloaded before the Turks could bring their guns to bear on her next
+morning. I remember listening to the firing as she slowly made her way
+up-stream; star-shells and flares went up and lit up the scene and she
+met with a terrible reception.
+
+Then, after a time, all firing ceased and we realized that this splendid
+attempt had failed. According to one member of the crew, all went well
+until they reached Magassis, where they struck a cable which gave way,
+but a second one immediately afterwards stopped them. Commander Firman,
+the naval officer in charge, thought this was a sand-bank and left his
+protection on the bridge to shout to them to take a sounding. He was
+killed on the spot. Cowley, the well-known skipper of the ship, then
+took charge but they could not get past the obstruction, and he himself
+was soon very severely wounded by a shell, from which he died when taken
+ashore.
+
+Eventually this magnificent attempt had to be given up. It was a most
+heroic effort and, had it been possible to steam faster, would probably
+have been successful. As it was, the ship was very heavily laden with a
+month's supplies for the garrison on board and could only do five or six
+knots against the very strong current. Even so, we still fondly hoped
+that General Gorringe might achieve the impossible at the last minute;
+but it was not to be.
+
+The last few days we lived on the emergency and reserve rations which
+each regiment had in its keeping, and the food dropped by aeroplanes
+from the Relieving Force. These brought us white flour, some sugar and a
+little chocolate. The bread ration, however, was only 4 oz. or just one
+good slice a day each.
+
+We were all very weak and there was a great deal of sickness. Enteritis,
+which seemed not very different from cholera, was prevalent and affected
+nearly everybody to some extent. Not infrequently a Tommy going into Kut
+from the front line would suddenly collapse, often not to recover. I
+remember feeling rather disappointed that I did not look thinner, and
+one felt one ought to be a dreadful scarecrow really to have done the
+siege justice.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+FROM KUT TO KASTAMUNI
+
+
+On April 29th, Kut surrendered, and it was with sad feelings that we
+watched two Turkish battalions marching in at midday. The bitter thought
+that they should have worsted us in the end, together with the knowledge
+of the useless sacrifice of life by our friends down-stream, was present
+to all; but there was also a great feeling of relief that the siege was
+now over, and we had not realized until this moment how severe the
+strain had been.
+
+We believed the Turks would treat all ranks well, as up to that moment
+they had always fought and behaved like gentlemen. Khalil Pasha, the
+Turkish general, had said we should be treated as his "honoured guests,"
+and, since at that time we had not had much experience of Turkish
+promises, we were inclined to think all would be well, although we knew
+the Turks themselves were short of supplies and had great difficulty in
+feeding their troops down-stream.
+
+Orders came round telling us to destroy everything that could be of use
+to the enemy, only a few rifles being kept in case of trouble with Arabs
+in the town before the Turks arrived. Field-glasses, revolvers, maps,
+and diaries all had to be destroyed and saddlery burnt. It seemed a
+crime to be sacrificing so much that was valuable, but this was better
+than helping the enemy in any way. The last works of destruction had
+only just been completed when the Turkish troops arrived, and great was
+their disgust at finding all the guns destroyed, and nothing worth
+taking but a few rifles.
+
+Some of us had kept our swords, thinking that they would be returned to
+us in traditional style, only to find them collected by the first
+Turkish subaltern or N.C.O. who set eyes on them. Those who were wiser
+had thrown theirs in the river or buried them, and we all wished we had
+done the same. Later on, we heard that the officers' swords from Kut had
+been displayed as an interesting exhibit in some museum at
+Constantinople.
+
+The departure from Kut began that evening, one steamer taking a full
+load up to Shamran, the Turkish base camp, some eight miles up-stream.
+We had still to depend on the remnants of our own rations for that day
+and the next, but fortunately they just sufficed.
+
+Next day, as we moved up towards the old Serai, near which the steamers
+were moored, we had to pass a palm grove which had been occupied by some
+Turkish soldiers. These men were systematically looting any kit which
+was being carried past, and to which they had taken a fancy. A good deal
+was lost in this way. The Turkish officers seemed powerless to stop it,
+the culprits merely walking away until the officer had departed.
+
+The steamer made two or three more trips that day, but it was announced
+at noon that all those left must march, their kit alone going on the
+steamer. How they managed that march in a starving condition they only
+know who did it, but when the steamer reached Shamran on its last trip
+at midnight they had all come in and been regaled with Turkish ration
+biscuits. An amusing incident occurred during this march. An Indian
+sweeper--the humblest of all regimental followers--was trudging along
+behind his regiment carrying some of the articles of his trade, when
+they passed some Turkish gun-pits where there were several German
+officers standing. On seeing them the sweeper made obeisance with the
+deepest of salaams; whereupon the Germans promptly stood to attention,
+clicked their heels and saluted.
+
+During the following days, we made ourselves as comfortable as possible
+at Shamran, and, fortunately, got other food in addition to the Turkish
+biscuits. These biscuits need only be once seen or eaten never to be
+forgotten. They are of a dark-brown colour, unless mouldy, about six
+inches in diameter and an inch thick in the centre, and made from a very
+coarse meal, which must contain anything except wheat. They are even
+harder than the hardest of our own army biscuits.
+
+The Turks had allowed us to bring with us what tents we had in Kut, and,
+although we had to leave them behind at Shamran, they were of the
+greatest comfort to us during the week which we spent there.
+
+A launch arrived from the relieving force, bringing with it barges laden
+with food, including a number of mess stores and gifts. These we
+eventually got possession of, although the Turks would not allow them to
+be landed at our camp, but took them up-stream some distance, where we
+expected they would take a systematic toll of everything. Turkish
+soldiers and Arabs brought in dates, a few oranges, and a syrup made
+from dates, which they sold at excessive prices.
+
+Bathing was allowed in the river, and some enthusiasts who still had
+fishing tackle spent a considerable time on the bank, but without much
+success.
+
+One day, General Townshend passed up-stream in a launch accompanied by
+two or three of his staff _en route_ to Bagdad. All ranks rushed to the
+bank to give him a parting cheer, which one felt meant that all knew he
+had done his best for us throughout.
+
+With the end of the siege one had expected all the worst features of the
+last few weeks to disappear, but the heavy mortality from enteritis
+continued at Shamran. It was especially heavy amongst the British ranks,
+in many cases being aggravated by a too suddenly increased diet, of
+which the Turkish biscuits formed a large part.
+
+A few days after our arrival, it was announced that the men would all
+have to march up, while officers would be taken up in batches by the
+steamers. The first party to leave contained the generals and staff, and
+most of the officers from British units. The following day the men were
+to march. Our doctors insisted on a very thorough examination, as a
+large proportion of the men were unable to march. The Turks would not,
+however, accept the British doctors' decisions, and reduced the unfit to
+a much smaller number.
+
+The result was that large numbers fell out after the first day, and had
+to be taken on board the _Julnar_, which was bringing up a number of men
+from the Kut hospitals whom the Turks considered not ill enough to be
+exchanged. We were all convinced that had it not been for German
+counsels at Constantinople some arrangement for our return on _parole_
+to India might have been made.
+
+The men were told to take one blanket or greatcoat each, as well as
+their haversacks and water-bottles. They had no transport whatever, and
+our hearts misgave us as we watched them go. The column wound slowly out
+of the camp with many checks, and it was over an hour before they were
+clear; all seemed to be carrying big loads, and many things must have
+been thrown away or sold before they reached Bagdad. The Turks were only
+too anxious to buy, when they could not steal any clothing, boots, or
+equipment, their own clothing and equipment being at a very low ebb
+after months of service in Mesopotamia, to say nothing of the long march
+down from Asia Minor. Many had no boots, and were just wearing sandals
+of goat-skin, such as they are accustomed to use in the country
+districts of Anatolia.
+
+When the men had departed, the camp seemed very forlorn; about 150
+British and Indian officers were left, while the hospital tents
+contained many sick of all ranks.
+
+Two days later, on May 10th, the second party of officers left on the
+steamer _Khalifa_, which had on board a few German gunners returning to
+Bagdad and a good number of Turkish officers. The journey took three
+days; on the second day we passed the _Julnar_. She was covered with
+bullet-marks, showing through what a severe fire she had forced her way.
+Now she was loaded with sick from Kut. We waved to those on board, but
+were not near enough to speak to them.
+
+Our steamer used to tie up to the bank for a short while twice a day, in
+the morning and evening, enabling us to get a hurried bathe and a little
+change from the cramped space on the deck, where we spent the rest of
+the time.
+
+The third day we passed the battlefield of Ctesiphon, full of memories
+of the victory which had proved so disastrous six months before. We
+halted for the night not far from the Arch, and were greeted by the
+local Arabs, who danced and fired off ancient rifles and pistols in the
+air in derision at our captivity. The women also contributed their share
+by making a peculiar kind of trilling sound. How we hoped they might
+soon be singing in a very different fashion when our troops should
+advance again and take Bagdad.
+
+We reached Bagdad the next morning. As we slowly paddled up the river,
+we could see the Red Crescent flag floating from almost every good house
+on the river sides; hospitals seemed to be everywhere, and we realized
+what awful casualties the Relieving Force had inflicted on the Turks.
+
+For some miles before Bagdad is reached, the river is fringed with palm
+groves, gardens, and cultivated land. When we left Kut the river was
+within a few feet of the highest ground, but here the banks were very
+much higher.
+
+We were landed at the old British Residency, and, after a little delay,
+were formed up in order of seniority and marched off along what appeared
+to be the main road. It was evidently arranged as a triumphal procession
+to impress the inhabitants. At length, after a march of two miles,
+passing through the covered-in bazaar, where the shade was most
+welcome, we emerged on the north side of the town, and reached our
+destination at the Cavalry Barracks. We had been promised furnished
+quarters, but found bare floors and empty rooms; the building formed a
+large quadrangle, and was empty of all troops when we arrived. A little
+later our orderlies and servants appeared, bringing our kit from the
+steamer. On leaving Shamran colonels were allowed to take two orderlies
+or Indian servants, other officers being allowed one each.
+
+Fortunately, just before we left, some money in Turkish gold had been
+sent up by the Relieving Force by aeroplane, and thus all ranks had a
+little cash.
+
+When the second party reached Bagdad, the first party had already
+departed for Mosul, and rumours arose about the journey, people saying
+at first that we should have carriages from the railhead at Samarra,
+then that only donkeys would be available, while others thought we
+should be lucky to get anything.
+
+While at the barracks we were given a month's pay by the Turkish
+authorities, on what proved to be for senior officers a very generous
+scale, the greatest mercy being that half the amount was paid in gold.
+Had this not been done, we should have been in a truly sorry plight on
+the long journeys by road across the desert, since no Arab would look at
+Turkish notes, and insisted on being paid in hard cash.
+
+At this time, the Russian force under General Baratoff had made a sudden
+advance through the Pusht-i-Kuh mountains and reached Khanikin, 90 miles
+north-east of Bagdad; the Turks were therefore very anxious to get us
+away, while some of the under-strappers, evidently thinking the Russians
+would reach Bagdad, began to talk in a very different strain, pretending
+that they had really been pro-British all the time.
+
+Very few people succeeded in getting out of the barracks, but two or
+three officers, duly escorted, managed to get a gharry, and drove
+straight to the American consul, who arranged to give them money, and
+did everything he could for them. He said he expected to see many of us,
+and went on to tell them exactly what he thought of the campaign up to
+date. He was very pessimistic over the future treatment of the British
+troops, and declared that had we known what would happen to them we
+would have cut our way out of Kut at whatever cost. We hoped this was
+exaggeration, and that things would not turn out as badly as he
+expected; but events proved only too truly how entirely his fears were
+justified. Hopelessly inadequate rations, no transport, no medical
+arrangements for the sick who fell out, and utter incapability of all
+Turkish authorities, constitute one of the blackest crimes committed
+during any war.
+
+It is only right to add that whenever we met German officers they did
+all they could to help us, more than one saying they considered that we
+and they were civilized people in a land of barbarians.
+
+Two days after reaching Bagdad we were paraded in the hot sun in the
+afternoon and marched off to the station, passing over the bridge of
+boats and through the Shia quarter of the city, which lies on the right
+bank of the river. We were all only too glad to get away from the
+insanitary conditions which are inseparable from all Turkish buildings.
+
+After a wait of two hours at the station, we were packed into a train
+which started about six o'clock. A few miles north of Bagdad we passed
+the Great Mosque at Kazmain, its golden domes and minarets shining in
+the setting sun. The train proceeded at a good rate; everything in
+connection with the railway was naturally German, and of a substantial
+description. The length of line then completed to the railhead at
+Samaria was 80 miles, passing through slightly undulating country the
+whole way. This had been finished by the Germans before the war broke
+out.
+
+Most of us were weary, and many preferred lying on the floor of the
+corridors or vestibules at the end of the cars, to sitting straight up
+in the cramped compartments. We made several halts, and it was near
+midnight when we arrived. Our guards, a few gendarmes, seemed to have no
+idea where we were going, or what was to be done with us. Eventually we
+were told to leave our kit, which was to be brought along later, and
+were guided down towards the river. After walking a mile, we found
+ourselves in a small Arab village on the river bank, and were conducted
+into a courtyard some 40 yards square, where we were told we were to
+stay. There was a rough shelter round three sides, formed by brushwood
+supported on a rough wooden framework; this promised a certain amount of
+shade, and we were all glad to be in the open air rather than in another
+barrack building. There were no signs of any transport fetching our kit,
+so the most enterprising managed to procure two trollies, and trundled
+them up to the station along a narrow-gauge line. The Turks used this
+line for taking stores, ammunition, etc., to the railway, from the rafts
+on which they were floated down from Mosul. By dawn, nearly all the kit
+had been collected, and we had settled down as best we could.
+
+There was a certain amount of food obtainable from Arab vendors, and as
+we had our Indian servants, and a few things left from stores received
+at Shamran, we were fairly comfortable. As usual, no one seemed to know
+how long we were to be there, before our journey by road across the
+desert began. Fortunately, we were not guarded very strictly, and were
+allowed to go outside the courtyard, and down to the river to bathe; the
+current here was very strong, and only the most powerful swimmers could
+make any headway against it, and that only for a few yards.
+
+The town of Samarra was on the other bank, and some little height above
+the land on our side. It stands back from the river, and contains a fine
+mosque, with a golden dome. The inhabitants cross the river in
+gufahs--the large round coracles which are used all down the Tigris.
+Owing to the current a start always has to be made very much higher
+up-stream than the point where it is desired to land on the other side.
+
+During the three or four days which we spent at Samarra, a large
+quantity of German gun-ammunition arrived by raft from up-stream, and
+was carried by Arabs up the bank to the trollies. These rafts carry big
+loads; they are formed by a skeleton frame of wood on which is placed
+brushwood, the frame being supported by inflated skins which are tied to
+it. On reaching the end of a journey, the skins are deflated and sent
+back up the river to be used again. As there are rapids between Samarra
+and Bagdad, it was not possible to float the rafts right down to Bagdad,
+and consequently everything had to be transhipped to the railway. One
+night some large motors arrived, and went on at once by road towards
+Bagdad. Reports immediately circulated that Enver Pasha had arrived; but
+this cannot have been true.
+
+We had now learnt who our commandant on the journey was to be. He was a
+yuzbashi or captain, by name Elmey Bey, a little man with an enormous
+moustache, which made him look very fierce. He knew a very little
+French, and could therefore be approached without an interpreter. We
+did not really appreciate him until later. One morning he escorted a few
+of us over to the town; there was nothing to be seen except the mosque,
+and we were not allowed to look at this even from the gateway, much less
+to enter the courtyard.
+
+[Illustration: ELMEY BEY
+
+_(From a Water-colour Drawing by Lt. Browne)_]
+
+After making a few purchases, we went into an Arab cafe and partook of
+coffee and tea flavoured with citron. Elmey Bey would not let us pay for
+anything, and we thought it most hospitable of him. He said he would
+accept our hospitality another day. However, he eventually left the cafe
+without paying anything, and apparently the proprietor was really our
+unwilling host.
+
+The town seemed very deserted, many of the inhabitants being over on the
+other side, selling anything they could to the first batch of troops,
+who had reached Samarra that morning by rail, and were now camped in the
+open a little way above us. We were not allowed to go to see them, but
+one or two managed to get messages through, and an Indian clerk
+belonging to my regiment came to see us. He looked thin, and had
+evidently had a hard time. He said that on the way to Bagdad the guards
+had flogged men who fell out, to see if they were really ill, and that
+conditions as regards rations were pretty bad generally. None of our
+men, however, had succumbed so far, and, as many of the regiment had
+been anything but fit to start with, we hoped they would be able to
+stand it. We gave him a few little things in the way of eatables before
+he went back.
+
+The next day, we were told we were going to march; and the question of
+transport became all-important. At first the Turks said there would be
+two animals--donkeys, mules, or ponies--to each officer; this seemed
+much too good to be true, and when the time came there was barely one
+animal to every officer. These had all been forcibly commandeered from
+the villagers round, and a good many were taken back again on the sly by
+their owners before we could get hold of them. Others were taken by the
+gendarmes who formed our guard, while several were too small to be of
+use, or were hopelessly lame. By the time we had got our kit packed, we
+had left for riding one reasonably large donkey and a diminutive beast
+between the six officers and seven Indian servants in our mess.
+
+We started at sunset in a dust-storm. Fortunately it did not last long,
+and we got along without mishap till about eleven o'clock, when a heavy
+rainstorm came on. All through the night, and especially after every
+halt, we had been urged on by our Arab escort shouting "Yallah, yallah!"
+This really means "O God!" but is used by the Arabs for "Get on and
+hurry up." How we came to loathe that cry! About two in the morning, we
+reached some water; luckily, in the dark, we could not see what we were
+drinking. We must have done fifteen to twenty miles; and, as most of us
+had not marched any distance for months, we were only too glad to fall
+asleep for a few hours. At dawn we were again on the move, having had
+some trouble in finding our own animals again; the wise had marked
+theirs with copying pencil, and this method was generally resorted to
+afterwards.
+
+We went on with halts of a few minutes every hour, and got down to the
+river again at midday. It was now pretty hot, and we were told we should
+arrive at Tekrit, a small Arab town, in one hour. Throughout Turkey and
+Mesopotamia distances are measured by hours; a good working plan is to
+add on 50 per cent. to the average of what one is told, as no two men
+will ever say the same; if journeying by night it is safer to double it.
+
+That last hour to Tekrit was one of the worst we had; actually it was
+nearer two hours. There was a blazing sun, and we were very tired. The
+road left the river and went up a hill, then down and up again. On each
+rise we expected to see the town, but it was dreadfully slow in
+appearing. From some distance off we were met by Arab boys and women
+selling eggs, raisins, sour curds, and chapatties. Finally, we were
+taken through the place down to the river edge, a sort of dirty, stony
+beach, where we were told to camp; we had covered 30 to 35 miles in the
+last nineteen hours, and most of us had marched almost the whole
+distance.
+
+There was a small Arab cafe which we were allowed to use, but otherwise
+there was no shade. Arabs sauntered about our bivouac, and were anything
+but friendly; the place was filthy, and we were far from feeling
+cheerful.
+
+Some of the houses of the town stand up on a rocky crag above the river.
+Tekrit is a very old place, and at one time there was a bridge over the
+river here. It was laid waste by the Mongols and the people butchered.
+Before we left, we were all wishing that some such fate might be in
+store for the present inhabitants.
+
+Some of us bathed, but the water was very shallow and dirty. Arabs could
+be seen swimming across the river supported on inflated skins, in
+exactly the same way as Xenophon has described their forefathers doing
+2,000 years ago.
+
+That afternoon we tried to arrange to hire extra animals, as we felt
+that we could never get along if the succeeding marches were so severe.
+A good many animals were forthcoming, mostly mules and large donkeys.
+The usual terms were to be one pound in gold, paid in advance, and a
+second on arrival at Mosul. The following evening, just before starting,
+the owners demanded the whole two pounds in advance; there was nothing
+for it but to comply, the reason undoubtedly being that the commandant
+of the town and Elmey Bey both desired to have their share before
+starting, as otherwise they would not see any of it. A long delay ensued
+before we got off, and it was getting dark before we were clear of the
+town.
+
+The march that night was uneventful, and we halted for a few hours
+before dawn near the river, continuing our way as soon as it got light.
+We passed a few Arab encampments, formed of dark tents, where the nomads
+come at certain seasons to cultivate the surrounding land, together with
+their flocks of sheep and goats. Not a single house, or even mud-hut,
+was to be seen. Our next halt, which we reached in the middle of the
+morning, was a serai standing by itself on a low ridge. It was built on
+the usual square pattern, and contained a well, which however, was not
+of very much use, as the water was unfit for drinking; drinking water
+had all to be carried from the river, over a mile away.
+
+Elmey Bey, or "Phil May," as we christened him, had by this time shown
+how anxious he was to help us, by doing nothing at all to assist us
+either in buying provisions or keeping prices down. Our escort consisted
+of a few Arab gendarmes, and, on arrival at any village or encampment,
+they would make the people put up their prices, and insist on taking the
+difference as commission themselves; whenever they could manage it they
+prevented all country people from approaching us until their own demands
+had been satisfied.
+
+Phil May rode the whole way, and would hurry on and be comfortably
+asleep in his camp bed by the time we reached the end of the march. If
+worried sufficiently by the senior officers, he would occasionally go to
+the extent of abusing one or more of the gendarmes, and administer the
+usual punishment adopted by all officers in the Turkish army--slapping
+the face of the culprit. It says a good deal for the discipline of the
+Turkish soldier that a sergeant will stand up like a lamb and have his
+face smacked by the veriest nincompoop of an officer.
+
+Leaving the serai again the following morning, we did a short march of
+some six or seven miles only, down to the river. This was to be a very
+strenuous day, for that evening we were to start on the long waterless
+march about which we had heard so much. It was said to be 40 miles, that
+we should halt during the next day, and not reach water till the morning
+after, thus doing two all-night marches. Most people had bought
+goatskins, tied up to hold water, from the local Arabs. Most of them
+leaked more or less rapidly, the new skins being much the worst, and all
+gave the water a very strong flavour.
+
+We got away about 5 p.m., and nothing special happened till about 11
+o'clock, when suddenly the escort became wildly excited, and dashed up
+and down; we were halted and told there were hostile Arabs about; the
+gendarmes fired off a few shots into the air, but nothing more occurred.
+All we could find to account for the disturbance was that one officer
+had lost his donkey, which had got loose and gone careering off to the
+side of the road. As it was a dark night, this may very likely have
+alarmed one or two of the gendarmes, who did not strike us as being men
+of valour.
+
+Two hours later we halted, and, after a sketchy supper, soon got to
+sleep. In the morning, instead of remaining where we were for the day,
+as we had expected, we had to move on once more to the tune of "Yallah,
+yallah." After three hours or so we reached some low sand-hills, and
+amongst these found an unexpected stream, where we proceeded to camp.
+This stream, like so many more in this part of the world, was not pure
+water, but contained salts of various descriptions, said by the Turks to
+make the water bad for drinking. We drank steadily from this and other
+similar streams; and, luckily, for the most part, felt no ill effects.
+
+That evening, we were again upon the road, our destination being
+Shilgat, a small Turkish post on the Tigris, which we were meeting once
+more. We arrived eventually about midnight, after a very wearisome
+march, and after a long wait were herded into the courtyard of the
+Turkish fort. When the kit had been sorted out, we were very soon
+asleep, the usual precautions being taken to see that boots were hidden
+under one's valise, or tied up in some way to prevent theft. As the
+Turkish troops were always badly off for footgear, boots were the
+articles most often stolen, and several pairs had disappeared in this
+way before we reached our journey's end. All were thoroughly tired out,
+and it had been decided that we would insist on a rest the following
+day. Great was our wrath, therefore, to find ourselves awakened again at
+dawn, and told we must move at once to another place. Phil May came in
+for more abuse, and lost his temper promptly. We settled down,
+eventually, in another enclosure not far away, where we had more room.
+Later on, we succeeded in our efforts to get a whole day's rest.
+
+In ancient times Shilgat was Assur, the first capital of the Assyrian
+Empire. Archaeologists had evidently been at work here; all the
+foundations of the old city had been laid bare; it had covered a
+considerable area, and had been built largely of marble. Situated on a
+high promontory overlooking the Tigris and the flat plains beyond, the
+old town must have been an imposing sight from all the surrounding
+country. Now, only the foundations remain, and no carving or
+inscriptions are to be seen.
+
+Next day, we were off once more across flat, uninteresting country,
+keeping close to the river. At the start, there was considerable delay
+owing to donkeys getting bogged in a creek which we had to cross. After
+a midday halt for a couple of hours, we continued our weary way, and
+finally bivouacked for the night on the bank of the river.
+
+The following day's march proved one of the most unpleasant of the whole
+journey. After an early start, we soon reached a Turkish post, where a
+long delay occurred while our orderlies drew rations. At this place
+there were small bitumen works, these being the first signs of any
+modern industry which we had seen since leaving Bagdad. A little farther
+on, the track rose to higher ground, and we left the river away on our
+right. It began to get hot towards midday, and a warm wind got up,
+bringing clouds of dust to meet us. At length, in the afternoon, we
+reached a Turkish post, where after much altercation we were refused an
+entrance, and had to retrace our steps to a somewhat sulphurous stream a
+little way back, where we camped for the night.
+
+The country all round at this time of year is covered with long thin
+grass, and in many places there are quantities of wild flowers, scarlet
+poppies being very conspicuous.
+
+In order to defeat the gendarmes, we had by now formed a kind of trade
+union for buying eggs from villagers. On approaching each place, it was
+decided how much should be paid for eggs, these being more in demand
+than any other kind of food. In the Bagdad district the Persian kron is
+the usual unit: a kron is equivalent to fourpence or two Turkish
+piastres; farther north the piastre, or qrush, is used. The cheapest
+rate we obtained for eggs was eight for a piastre, or four a penny,
+whereas when the gendarmes had their own way we had to pay a penny for
+each.
+
+Our next march took us to Hamamali, a place on the river, and containing
+an old bath, as its name implies. There are bitumen springs entering the
+river here, but they are not strong enough to render the water unfit for
+drinking. Supplies were very plentiful--eggs, raisins, bread, and dates
+being the most sought after. After a few hours' rest and a bathe in the
+river, we started off again in the evening, looking forward to a real
+rest on reaching Mosul the next day. We bivouacked beside the road, and
+were moving at an early hour next morning. The road wound up and down
+over low hills, and some attempt had been made to metal the surface and
+build good bridges, showing that we were getting near to an important
+place. As we reached the top of one ridge, a full view of the Tigris
+valley burst upon us, Mosul lying straight ahead of us, while farther to
+the right across the river lay the ruins of old Nineveh. In the
+immediate foreground, the course of the river was marked by green
+cultivated land and low woods, while away, in the distance, rose the
+dark mountains of Kurdistan.
+
+On approaching the town more closely, one noticed a great difference in
+the mosques, as compared with Bagdad. Here the minarets were of plain
+stone-work, and were not capped by gorgeous golden domes or brilliant
+blue tile-work.
+
+We were marched into a large building, formed on the usual Turkish
+pattern of a hollow square. This seemed to be chiefly used as a prison.
+We were given three or four empty rooms on the upper story. Water was
+scarce, and had to be brought in by hand. In other respects, the
+building had all the filthy characteristics inseparable from the Turk.
+
+Soon after arriving, we were given Red Crescent post-cards to send home,
+and these turned out to be the first news our friends in England
+received from us. For food we were allowed to go out to restaurants in
+the town. One of these, run by a Frenchman, was a great joy to us, after
+the scratch meals which we had been forced to be content with for so
+long. We had covered the 175 miles from Samarra to Mosul in just under
+ten days, and had it not been for the extra animals hired at Tekrit we
+should scarcely have managed this. As it was, most people could ride for
+an hour and walk for an hour alternately, though some were not so
+fortunate.
+
+We were promised many things in Mosul, amongst others that we should be
+allowed to go to bathe in the river. This was never allowed in the end,
+although we went in parties to the bazaar, where we laid in stocks of
+flour, rice, and raisins, for the journey on to Ras-el-Ain. We were told
+that very few supplies were obtainable on the road until we reached
+Nisibin, 120 miles away.
+
+At Samarra, we had left behind a few officers who had not sufficiently
+recovered from the effects of the siege to proceed at once on the road
+journey. At Shilgat, we picked up one officer left by the first party,
+and left one or two of our own servants behind. All these we hoped would
+recover enough to come on with the troops or subsequent parties of
+officers. At Mosul, we found one of our doctors left behind by the first
+party, and attending to an officer who was down with enteric.
+
+After a rest of two days at Mosul, we started off on June 1 for the 200
+miles to the railhead at Ras-el-Ain. Our transport was now composed
+chiefly of carts, and a few extra carts were hired by paying in advance
+as before. There was the usual uncertainty as to how many marches it
+would take us, and how many hours we should be on the road the first
+day. We were now going almost due west, and would not see our old friend
+the Tigris again.
+
+In response to our complaints to the commandant at Mosul of the way in
+which our Arab escort had behaved, these men were changed for Turkish
+soldiers, who gave us less trouble. Our party was accompanied by three
+magnificent Arab horses, which were being taken to Constantinople for
+Enver Pasha. The Mosul district has been the finest horse-breeding
+country in Asia from the earliest times; indeed, it would be hard to
+imagine a country better suited for the purpose than the rolling grassy
+plains stretching away on both sides of the river.
+
+After leaving the Tigris, we did not see a single tree for a hundred
+miles, and there was very little water of any description. The first
+night we spent by some dirty pools after a march of more than twenty
+miles. The carts were not as restful as might be imagined, since they
+had no springs, and every few minutes the Jehu would urge his steeds
+into a canter to catch up distance lost on the cart in front, or merely
+to try to get ahead of it. The harness was largely composed of string
+and rope, which often gave way, thus occasioning a long rattle for all
+on board before the former place in the procession was regained. Some of
+the horses had most appalling sores: they are evidently worked till they
+drop, and receive the harshest treatment from the drivers. The boys
+driving our carts were Kurds, wild, quick-tempered, and reckless.
+
+The second day brought us to a camp beside a stream of pure sweet water,
+a welcome change after all the dirty pools and salt-laden springs which
+we had experienced. The following day, after a halt near some dirty
+springs at noon, we started on another long waterless trek in the late
+afternoon. We went on steadily all night, passing a large prairie fire.
+These fires are started to burn up the old long grass and make way for
+the fresh growth. They extend for miles, and at night are a fine sight,
+with heavy clouds of smoke hanging above.
+
+We halted for two hours about two in the morning, and then got under way
+once more. About nine o'clock we came to a good stream and towards
+midday reached our camp at Demir Kapo. Here, there was a small river
+which yielded a number of fish. We saw a few Germans, and a German
+wireless section was camped near. We bathed in the stream, and were very
+glad to rest for the remainder of the day and the following morning.
+
+Two more marches brought us to Nisibin. The country after leaving Mosul
+had been almost uninhabited, but here there were small villages dotted
+about. On getting nearer to them, we found that they were deserted; our
+guards told us they were Armenian villages, and that the people had all
+been killed earlier in the war. We passed a great many of these awful
+testimonies to the barbarity of Turkish politics.
+
+Away on our right, as we approached Nisibin, could be seen Mardin, a
+city built on a rock overlooking the plains, and forming, as it were, a
+look-out from the southern fringe of the Taurus Mountains. As to how
+far Mardin also was a city of the dead, it was impossible to tell.
+Before the war, the main Armenian population had extended from this
+district over a belt of land running north-eastwards up to Erzerum and
+Van.
+
+At Nisibin, we camped near the river, and had a full day's rest. This
+place saw as much fighting as any spot in Mesopotamia in the old days,
+having been the frontier station between Rome and Parthia. There are not
+many relics of the past to be seen at the present day, but close to our
+bivouac stood four old pillars, bearing transverse stones which had
+formed part of the Roman Forum. They stood out forlornly in a field on
+high ground, and, as might be expected, supported a stork's nest. These
+birds often build a new nest on the top of one or more old ones: they
+are very common in Mesopotamia, and several were seen in Bagdad.
+
+The following evening saw us moving on again, and the day after we
+halted at midday at Tel Erman. At this point, there is a road branching
+away to the north of the route we had followed and leading up to
+Diarbekr. The Turks were moving a good many troops at this time up to
+the Caucasus fronts, through Diarbekr, to meet the Russian pressure. We
+found a large camel convoy just beyond the village; since leaving Mosul
+we had met no troops or convoys destined for Bagdad or the Persian
+front; everything for Mesopotamia appeared to go down the Euphrates on
+rafts, this being the quickest way.
+
+Tel Erman lived in our memories as being the first place where we had
+obtained any fruit since leaving Bagdad three weeks before. Some small
+cherries and apricots were to be had and were eagerly bought up.
+
+During the evening's march, we passed a regiment of Turkish cavalry,
+who, for Turks, seemed to be wonderfully well equipped. The average Turk
+never looks happy on a horse, but these fellows made a better show than
+usual. As we approached the railhead at Ras-el-Ain, signs of activity
+increased, and there were more dead horses at the roadside, showing that
+the traffic was heavier.
+
+The last day's march was one of the worst; during the morning stage the
+sun was hot, there was no breeze, and quantities of sand-flies assailed
+us. Towards midday, we reached a big Turkish camp, where there were a
+good many men and stores in course of transit eastwards. Here we rested
+until late in the afternoon, when our final march to Ras-el-Ain began.
+The last few miles were accomplished at a good pace to a sustained
+whistling accompaniment, ranging over most of the popular songs of the
+last few years.
+
+Every one thought that our troubles were over, as we were now on a
+railway, and whatever might happen would not have to walk any farther.
+These hopes were dispelled a few days later, when we heard of the two
+breaks in the line across the Taurus Mountains, which had not yet been
+completed, thus necessitating two more trips by road.
+
+We bivouacked in the open by the station, and early in the morning were
+told to get ready at once to go by the next train. An hour later, it
+appeared that we were not going till the following day. By this time we
+had ceased to pay much attention to Turkish orders, unless we saw that
+actual preparations were being made to carry them out. In the afternoon,
+the Turks took away all Hindu orderlies and servants, and informed us
+that all the doctors in our party, except one, were to stay here to look
+after the Indian troops on their arrival, as the latter were going to be
+put to work on continuing the railway farther east towards Nisibin. We
+were very sorry for our medical friends, since their prospects looked
+anything but cheerful. Local food supplied from the country round
+seemed almost non-existent, and the shops in the village had very
+little.
+
+By the time we reached Ras-el-Ain, we had completed 200 miles from Mosul
+in ten days. Most of us had walked half the distance, and bumped in
+carts over the other half. We had kept tolerably cheerful, apart from a
+few inveterate grousers; altogether we had survived wonderfully well,
+and had fared infinitely better than the troops from Kut, who were
+marching along in our tracks a few days behind us.
+
+From Ras-el-Ain we started for Aleppo the next morning, the journey
+taking nearly twelve hours. The only interesting place through which we
+passed was Jerrablus, the ancient Carchemish, where the line crosses the
+Euphrates by a fine bridge. There was not much sign of activity on the
+river banks, but before we left the station a complete train loaded with
+German motor-lorries had arrived, and after a few minutes continued its
+way eastwards.
+
+On reaching Aleppo, in the evening, the orderlies and servants were
+marched off by themselves, and after loading our kit on to carts we were
+driven away in gharries from the station. This seemed to be almost the
+height of luxury, and we thought that at last we had reached a place
+where we should be really well treated. The gharries took us to various
+small hotels, but when once inside we were not allowed to go out again.
+The Turks said that our kit would be delivered at once; some people
+waited up hoping for the arrival of their valises, but the wiser seized
+what bedding there was obtainable in the hotel, and laying it on a
+veranda made the best of a bad job, and went to sleep.
+
+In the morning, we were not allowed out to get any food. The hotel
+sharks refused to let boys come up with rolls, but tried to sell to us
+themselves at double the prices. However, we eventually got hold of a
+boy who threw up rolls from the street below to our veranda, and thus
+outwitted our enemies.
+
+All efforts to get out for breakfast, or to fetch our kit, proved
+unavailing, until about midday we were allowed to go a few yards down
+the street to where our kit had all been thrown inside a gateway the
+night before. Fortunately, although a good many valises had evidently
+been opened, very little had been stolen.
+
+It was not until four o'clock in the afternoon that we were finally
+allowed out in parties to a restaurant not a hundred yards away. While
+we were shut in, we had seen Phil May in the road and shouted to him;
+but, although he could see very well what we wanted, he never took the
+trouble to come into the hotel, much less to help us.
+
+The next day passed in much the same fashion, except that we were
+allowed out at midday, and no one was sorry when we were marched off
+back to the station early the following morning. Here we met the
+orderlies, who had fared much worse than we had. The first night they
+had been packed into a small room in some filthy barracks, and had
+suffered severely from the verminous pests which flourish in every
+Turkish building.
+
+A railway journey of a few hours brought us to Islahie, which was then
+the railhead for the journey over the Anti-Taurus range.
+
+There were some Austrian troops in Aleppo, and we now began to meet many
+more Germans. Turkish training-camps were much in evidence at the
+stations we passed after leaving Aleppo, and a good deal of material was
+going south on the railway. Most of this was going to Egypt to assist in
+the attack which ended so disastrously for the Turks.
+
+We spent the night at Islahie under some rough tent shelters. All our
+clothes had been fumigated in a steam waggon specially designed for the
+purpose.
+
+The following morning we noticed a crowd of men, women, and children
+moving off along the road and looking very wretched. Our guards said
+that these were Armenians who had been working on the line, but were
+being taken away to make room for our troops, who would be set to work
+in their place; they also added that these Armenians would be marched
+off into a waterless spot in the hills, and kept there till they died.
+
+We left our camp in the evening, travelling the first part of the way in
+carts, over one of the most bumpy roads ever seen. After a halt at the
+foot of the pass, we marched up, starting at midnight. There was a fine
+moon, and the scenery as we climbed higher became very grand. The road
+appeared to be only lately completed, and was probably due to German
+energy. As we neared the summit three or four bodies were seen lying in
+the ditch beside the road; these were evidently some of the Armenians we
+had seen starting off that morning. After descending the farther side,
+we bivouacked under trees in a pretty spot, and on the slope opposite
+saw the Armenians. Soon after they left and we did not see anything more
+of them. That evening we continued our way downhill, meeting several
+batches of sturdy Turkish youths who had just been called up and were
+on their way to training-camps near Aleppo. We were descending rapidly,
+and our drivers maintained a headlong gallop, with the result that two
+carts were completely overturned, but fortunately with no ill effects to
+the passengers. We finally bivouacked not far from the railhead, and
+reached the station of Mamoure early the following morning.
+
+The railway journey across the plain, through Adana, took some six
+hours, bringing us to Kulek Boghaz, a station within five miles of
+Tarsus. From this point the road journey over the main Taurus range
+began. All supplies were being brought over by German motor-lorries, and
+everything was being run by a German commandant. During the night
+several helmets were stolen and probably found their way to German
+soldiers, who either had no sun helmets or very inferior ones. The
+commandant did his best to recover them, but without success. He told us
+that we should leave the next morning at 9 o'clock. Punctually to the
+minute, a dozen motor-lorries rolled up, and we were soon speeding along
+the road towards the mountains. The road had been cut up dreadfully by
+the heavy traffic, so that we were jolted about almost as badly as we
+had been in the Turkish carts. The scenery grew finer as we ascended,
+until half-way we reached an open space amongst the hills, which the
+Germans had made the headquarters of their motor service, and christened
+"Camp Taurus." Here were enormous repair tents, one for each make of
+car, with living quarters and offices all of a most complete and
+elaborate type. After a halt here, we continued our way, still rising
+slowly until we entered the Cilician Gates, where the road just finds
+room to pass through a narrow rocky gorge. On the farther side, the
+descent begins at once, and is very steep in places. The road here was
+being repaired by bands of forced labourers, and had a much better
+surface.
+
+As we neared the railway again, at Bozanti, we noticed a few British
+prisoners. These were naval men taken in the Dardanelles. They said they
+were being paid, and apparently had not much to complain about. We were
+not allowed to stop and speak to them, and can only hope that they fared
+better than our own troops who were put to work shortly afterwards on
+the neighbouring sections of the line through the Taurus.
+
+At Bozanti, we were able to buy a few stores, some of which were British
+and had been left behind at Gallipoli when we evacuated the peninsula.
+With only a short wait, we were packed like sardines into a train, and
+the next stage of the journey began.
+
+The next morning we reached Konia, and were told to leave the train, but
+not to take our kit out, as the train was stopping for some time. The
+local commandant arrived, and proved to be the best Turkish officer we
+had met. Under his direction, we were taken to a hospital building,
+where there were two large rooms containing rough beds. These were a
+great delight after sleeping on the ground for weeks. The commandant, a
+little later, decided that we should be allowed to remain here until the
+next day, so that we might have a rest. If we had relied on Phil May,
+our kit would have all gone on in the afternoon to Constantinople, but
+luckily we just managed to rescue it in time.
+
+The greatest delight of Konia, from our point of view, was an hotel near
+the station, to which we were allowed to go for meals. This was run by a
+Frenchwoman, who was kindness itself, and could not do enough for us.
+Few of us will forget the delights of her omelets or the hot baths in a
+real long bath, the first we had seen since leaving India.
+
+The journey next day was more comfortable, as we had more room. After
+spending another night in the train, we arrived in the morning at Afion
+Kara Hissar, where a good number of Gallipoli prisoners were interned.
+In the evening, we reached Eski Chehir, the junction for the Angora
+line. Here all our Mohammedan servants were taken from us. We were
+conducted a little way into the town to the houses where a number of
+Indian Mohammedan officers, who had come along with the first party,
+were living. They seemed to have fared pretty well, and certainly had
+very good quarters. They were very glad to see us, and we anxiously
+inquired after their experiences by the way.
+
+Up to this point we had fondly imagined that Angora would be the end of
+our journey, but just before starting in the evening we were told that
+another ten days by road lay in front of us after reaching Angora. We
+were packed tight in the train, and rumbled on slowly through the night,
+arriving at Angora at eleven o'clock next day. Our kit was left to be
+brought in carts, while we were marched through the town to a big
+building over a mile beyond. This had been built as an Agricultural
+College, but latterly used as a Military School. Here we found the
+first party of officers, whom we had last seen at Shamran camp. They
+seemed to have had a much more unpleasant journey than we had; whether
+it was because they had most of the staff officers amongst them, or had
+adopted the plan of telling every Turk and interpreter exactly what they
+thought of them, certain it is that they were not enjoying life, and
+when we arrived had not been allowed outside the building for two whole
+days.
+
+We had bidden farewell to Phil May with great delight at Eski Chehir,
+and had since then been in charge of a much pleasanter officer. Thanks
+to his efforts, we succeeded in getting permission to stay out of doors
+to cook and to go down to a neighbouring stream to bathe in the evening.
+We felt that the first party really owed us a great debt of gratitude in
+thus providing them with an opportunity of washing and getting a little
+fresh air.
+
+All our orderlies had been marched off from the station to some dirty
+Turkish barracks, so that we were entirely dependent on our own culinary
+efforts. Two days after our arrival, the first party left in carts for
+Yozgad, a distance of 100 miles due east on the road to Sivas and
+Erzerum. We remained for a week, being only allowed to go into the town
+once to make purchases. The journey to Kastamuni began under the best
+conditions. The weather was perfect, and as we were well over 2,000 feet
+above sea-level the sun was never too hot at midday. Also, we had a new
+commandant, who did what he could to help us. The distance in front of
+us was 140 miles, and we expected to take fully a week.
+
+The road led through countless orchards for the first few miles, and
+then on into more open country. Cherries and small apricots abounded,
+and supplies in general were plentiful; a very different state of
+affairs existed a year later, when prices had doubled and trebled, and
+in many cases advanced very much more. We reached a small village the
+first evening, and our commandant appeared much surprised that we should
+prefer to sleep in the open rather than in the very doubtful shelters
+attached to the local rest-house.
+
+The following day we reached Kalejik, a picturesque little place with
+the ruins of an old castle perched on a rocky pinnacle in the centre of
+the town. Some such ruin seems to keep watch over all Turkish towns. We
+had already seen similar old forts perched on hills at Afion Kara
+Hissar and Angora.
+
+Next morning, most of our carts were taken away, and we were given
+donkeys instead. A small moke cannot keep pace with a cart, and it is an
+open question whether riding the animal with a loading saddle is less
+fatiguing than walking along and driving it in front of one. Provided
+all one's kit had been put on a cart, the easiest way was often to let
+the moke go where it liked, and walk on oneself without it.
+
+Two days from Kalejik brought us to Changri, a prettily situated little
+place, which came suddenly into view, as we rounded a bend in the road,
+after traversing a very desolate and uninteresting stretch of country
+all day. We bivouacked under some trees by a stream, which, however, was
+not fit to drink from. The local commandant and Town Council paid us a
+visit. We were allowed to visit the bazaar, and generally made ourselves
+comfortable.
+
+In the morning, we were given more carts again, much to our delight, and
+continued our way northward. The road now began to cross some high
+ridges. On one of these we passed a police post, and a halt was made
+while our commandant stalked a few sitting pigeons with his shot-gun,
+eventually securing one after a great deal of trouble. Beyond
+sand-grouse, between Bagdad and Mosul, we had seen very little game of
+any sort since we left Kut.
+
+We camped by a stream, after a very steep and bumpy descent from a high
+ridge. It is extraordinary what treatment the light Turkish transport
+carts can stand without anything giving way.
+
+Our next march led us up a very long ascent, and proved the most
+enjoyable day of our whole journey. After ascending some distance, the
+road entered pine woods, and reminded us very strongly of roads near
+different hill stations in India. We halted at midday very near the top
+of the pass, which must be close on 4,000 feet, while the mountains on
+either side rise to another 2,000 feet. The views were glorious, and we
+wished it might have been possible to stay longer in such scenery. By
+evening, we had dropped down a long distance on the other side and were
+nearly out of the woods again when we halted for our last bivouac.
+
+We were now within ten miles of Kastamuni, and by eleven o'clock next
+morning, July 5th, were in sight of the place. The old castle, standing
+on its rocky crest, was the first sight which greeted us as we looked
+down into the valley from the top of the ridge along which we had come.
+The town, spreading up and down the valley round the base of the castle
+rock, seemed very much larger than any Turkish town we had seen since
+leaving Aleppo. The valley was green with cultivated fields and trees,
+while the hillsides were bare and brown.
+
+We were halted just outside the town, while a number of local gendarmes
+formed up on each side of the road. After a long wait, we thus
+progressed in state into the town and through the bazaar to our
+quarters, which proved to be houses from which the former Greek
+inhabitants had been ejected. In the end, although somewhat crowded, we
+found ourselves each with a bed, bedding, and a little other furniture.
+Most of us had not slept in a bed for eight months or more, apart
+perhaps from a few days in hospital, and all we desired at the moment
+was one long rest.
+
+During the last week, which had been by far the pleasantest of the whole
+trek, we had averaged twenty miles a day. Our journey altogether had
+been nearly 1,700 miles, and was probably the longest distance across
+country any prisoners of war have had to travel to the place of their
+confinement.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+LIFE IN KASTAMUNI
+
+_July 1916--August 1917_
+
+
+On arrival in Kastamuni, we were divided into two groups, one being
+accommodated in a large building, formerly a Greek school, with one or
+two adjacent houses, and the other in a number of houses in a street
+lower down the hill. Both places were on the edge of the town in the
+Greek quarter. The schoolhouse was perched high up and commanded a
+splendid view across the town in the valley towards the hills, beyond
+which lay the Black Sea--only some 40 miles away.
+
+The houses were built up on a wooden frame-work, the bricks being thrown
+in to fill up the intervening spaces in a most casual manner. The best
+houses were covered with stucco; but, however good in appearance, each
+house in Turkey has its own numerous population of small inhabitants. An
+Austrian lady whom we met assured us that her house was the only one in
+the town free from these pests, and we could well believe it.
+
+The town itself is shut in by the valley and presents a confused jumble
+of houses, with almost innumerable mosques, and in the centre one or two
+large Government buildings. The mosques are not particularly beautiful,
+there being no golden domes or blue tilework. The most pretentious have
+plain grey stone minarets, while the smaller ones have to be content
+with little steeples of wood. During Ramazan a ring of lights is kept
+burning at night round each minaret, and gives the town a strange
+appearance, as these are the only lights showing, there being no such
+thing as street lamps, and very few lights in private houses--with
+kerosine at a prohibitive price.
+
+After the weary march from Kut, we were only too delighted to get into
+our new quarters, and sleeping in a bed again was a luxury not soon to
+be forgotten. A restaurant had been arranged, and we found a very good
+meal ready for us soon after arrival. Unfortunately, this was much the
+best repast we obtained from the contractor, and when it came to
+arranging a daily messing scheme we had to be content with a very
+moderate programme. However, every one had got so tired of scraping
+along, cooking and foraging for themselves on the journey up, that any
+sort of plan by which some one else would do the work was not to be
+refused, even if we were to be done over it.
+
+During the summer of 1916, food in the town was comparatively cheap,
+eggs being a halfpenny each or less, and good white flour about sixpence
+a pound. Fruit was to be had in prolific quantities, the cherries being
+especially good. But no one takes any trouble to cultivate fruit in this
+part of Turkey. There are grapes, melons, peaches, apples and pears in
+great profusion, but all of the commonest kind. Had the country any
+communications worth the name, no doubt it would be different, but, as
+it is, the Turk is content with what grows by itself and does not need
+any special attention. The local taste in over-ripe and bad pears was
+most surprising. For weeks one would see baskets of rotting pears in the
+bazaar on market days and the country people enjoying them.
+
+The ruined castle on its rocky pinnacle must have dated back to very
+early times; it is now used as a "look-out" station and has three
+ancient guns, which are fired as an alarm in case of fire and at other
+moments of importance, such as the first sight of the new moon at the
+end of Ramazan. The greatest wonder to us was that the whole town had
+not been burnt down long ago, since all the bazaar houses were wooden
+and dry as tinder. The fire brigade consisted of one prehistoric manual
+pump which was carried about on the shoulders of five or six youths,
+with a scratch collection of hose and buckets. On one occasion a major
+of the S. & T. Corps was so overcome with laughter on seeing this
+apparition that the commandant, feeling much insulted, had him confined
+to the house for a fortnight.
+
+This was our first commandant, a very ignorant specimen, who, so report
+said, had been a farmer in the Caucasus. He was a most depressing sight
+at all times. Most Turkish officers only shave on Thursdays, and he was
+no exception to the rule. His trousers invariably swept the ground; he
+always wore goloshes several sizes too large and an old overcoat. He
+would shuffle about with his hands in his pockets, his shoulders hunched
+up, looking the picture of misery. Yet, notwithstanding his apparent
+dejection, he was making quite a good thing out of us, as we found out
+later on. The restaurant contractor was paying him about L30 a month,
+and, between them, they were charging us rent for our quarters, which
+was quite contrary to all rules. Another little source of income was
+making us each pay for a 5-piastre receipt stamp for our monthly pay
+instead of a 2-1/2d.
+
+This commandant knew no language except Turkish, and consequently an
+interpreter was needed on all occasions. At the start this was a Greek,
+who made great protestations of his friendliness to us; but we very soon
+found him to be a double-faced blackguard doing his best to make a good
+thing out of us by arranging for commissions with the shopkeepers with
+whom we dealt.
+
+Fortunately for us, early in 1917, a Turkish colonel--Zeur Bey, from
+Constantinople--arrived unexpectedly on a visit of inspection, with the
+result that the commandant was promptly dismissed and matters regarding
+overcharges for house rent put right. The commandant was said to have
+been seen on his knees before the colonel imploring forgiveness. This at
+all events was the story of Sherif Bey, the second in command, who was
+by way of being very anxious to do all he could for us. On our march
+from Angora to Kastamuni he had certainly done his best for us, but
+later on we were forced to distrust him.
+
+Turkish officers, as a rule, have very good manners and promise one
+almost anything without the least idea of ever keeping their word. They
+speak French with a very good accent, which makes one give them credit
+for knowing a great deal more of that language than is usually the case.
+It is quite impossible to describe the uniforms worn by officers, as one
+so seldom sees two dressed alike. All material being so scarce and
+expensive, uniforms were made from almost anything, and there being no
+such person as a provost-marshal no one could interfere. Consequently,
+one saw some officers dressed in a highly picturesque style, looking as
+if they had just been taking a part in "The Chocolate Soldier" or "The
+Balkan Princess," and others whom one could only recognize from
+shopkeepers by their badges of rank.
+
+The Greek interpreter was the first one of the original staff to depart.
+After him, two very much better fellows were sent us. One of these was a
+young Turk named Remzi, who had been a naval cadet in Constantinople
+when the war broke out--and still cherished the fond hope of one day
+being an officer in the British Navy, for which he had the most profound
+veneration. Unfortunately, in trying to help us, he wrote to
+Constantinople; got into trouble with his seniors, and was sent away.
+We were thus left with the second man, an Armenian, who was always
+called "Napoleon" from his likeness to the Great Man. Napoleon was very
+cautious, but, considering the difficulty of his own position, he did us
+very well.
+
+After our first commandant had disappeared, his successor arrived in the
+shape of a very small, but very stout and cheery little man, named
+Fattah Bey. He proved to be a very good fellow and things were soon
+running much more pleasantly. A great point in his favour was that he
+spoke German, and we were thus able to dispense with an interpreter.
+Capt. H., of the I.A.R.O., took charge of him on most occasions, and
+after we had had him a few weeks he was becoming quite pro-British.
+
+The greatest events in our life were undoubtedly the arrival of a mail
+or parcels. The letters we received in July 1916, soon after our
+arrival, were the first news most of us had had from our friends at home
+since before the siege began in Kut nearly eight months earlier. On an
+average, letters came through every ten days or so, the quickest time
+taken from home, via Switzerland, Vienna and Constantinople, being 25
+days. Parcels travelled by the same route, but were very much longer in
+making their appearance. At first they arrived in three to four months,
+but gradually took longer and longer, until finally they were eight and
+nine months on the way. The reason for this delay was to be found in
+Vienna, where all parcels were transhipped, and apparently thrown into a
+depot until such time as the Austrian officials decided to send a few
+more on. Any big operations on the Italian front had the immediate
+effect of stopping all parcels and sometimes letters as well. There were
+exceedingly few cases of anything having been actually stolen and, up to
+a certain date, officers had received nearly all parcels sent from home.
+
+Soon after our arrival, we received a number of gifts through the
+American Embassy in Constantinople, who were at that time looking after
+our interests. These consisted of thin cotton things for the summer,
+and, when wearable, were of considerable use. Unfortunately, they were
+much too small, and it was a very lucky man who could wear the trousers
+he was given. Later on, more clothes arrived, these being thick winter
+garments which, although not providing the same amount of amusement,
+fitted us better and were a great godsend, since it was not until the
+New Year that people began to receive the clothes they wanted from home.
+
+The winter in Kastamuni and, in fact, over most of Asia Minor can be
+very severe; but it is a dry and healthy cold. In February 1917, we had
+well over 20 degrees of frost for days, and during the following winter
+the temperature at Changri went down to 6 degrees below zero. Indeed, it
+would have been hard to find a better climate than Kastamuni, which was
+2,500 feet above the sea. The rainfall there was very small and confined
+almost entirely to March and April. The summer temperature was very much
+the same as in England, but drier.
+
+As one gets nearer to the Black Sea coast, the rainfall increases and
+the vegetation gets thicker. Between Angora and Changri there are wide
+stretches of almost desert land. At Kastamuni we had pine woods and
+shrubs on the hills, while all the valleys were extensively irrigated.
+On the Black Sea coast itself the climate is much milder in winter and
+there are thick woods of beech, oak and fir with heavy undergrowth.
+
+Apart from the kitchen, which always has a huge open chimney, there were
+no fireplaces of the ordinary kind in the houses. All heating in winter
+is done by stoves of sheet iron with a chimney leading out through the
+nearest wall. These stoves, fed with wood, give out a tremendous heat
+for a short time, but it is very hard to maintain anything approaching
+an even temperature. Wood was plentiful during the winter of 1916-17,
+and we used to buy it in the form of whole logs. These we had sawn up by
+two Armenians into short lengths, which we then split with an axe. This
+gave us a good deal of exercise during the cold winter mornings.
+Unfortunately, the next year, wood had become scarce and much more
+expensive and all prisoners suffered considerably in consequence. A good
+deal of charcoal is used for cooking, but we saw no coal being used in
+the district, even the railway up to Angora being largely dependent on
+wood.
+
+After a few months at the restaurant, the contractor began to put up
+prices and most of us demurred. This finally led to the majority going
+on strike and deciding to mess themselves, as we were allowed to by the
+rules. The old commandant, however, and the contractor, had no idea of
+accepting the alternative if they could possibly help it. Consequently,
+we were first forbidden to cook in the kitchens of our own houses, for
+fear we should set the chimneys and the houses on fire. To get over
+this, we made fireplaces in the back gardens or yards behind the houses.
+Other little pin-pricks of the same kind were tried, but we finally got
+our own way, and found that our mess bills were reduced to nearly a half
+what they had been before. We had a number of British orderlies with us,
+who did our cooking and waited on us. To start with, there was some
+difficulty in getting a separate room as a dining-room for each mess,
+but eventually we settled down and furnished on an economical plan, our
+carpenters making benches, tables, etc.
+
+The restaurant contractor was so disgusted at our strike that he closed
+down altogether for two or three days, thus throwing out into the cold
+the few who had remained faithful to him on any conditions rather than
+do their own catering. There was, somewhat naturally, a good deal of
+ill-feeling between the two parties in consequence, and it took time to
+die out. In the end, the restaurant supporters had to start a mess of
+their own and came into line with the rest of us.
+
+We were allowed a fair amount of liberty, although at the start things
+did not look promising, the old commandant telling us we should be only
+able to go one short walk a week. Actually we were allowed in the road
+for a hundred yards or so outside our houses and could go to the bazaar
+or Turkish bath any day by getting a sentry to go with us.
+
+The Hamams, or Turkish baths, of which there are a great many, are not
+the elaborately furnished places one sees at home, but consist of two
+vaulted chambers, supplied with vapour. Round the side are ledges on
+which one sits, and stone basins with a supply of hot and cold water.
+After being stewed in the hottest chamber for a quarter of an hour, one
+passes out to the outer room, where an aged attendant is generally ready
+to operate with buckets of cold water. Next one proceeds to the
+dressing-rooms and reclines comfortably swathed in towels, while Turkish
+coffee is brought round. After the first few months, sugar became so
+expensive that it was no longer provided, and the coffee seemed very
+poor in consequence. Altogether, in a place where one had plenty of time
+to spare, the Hamam provided a very pleasant way of spending a morning.
+
+The Turks used to put up numbers of rules for our benefit. These were
+written out in the best English the interpreter could achieve, which was
+never very clear. As a rule, we did not pay very much attention to
+them, and they, on the other hand, never seemed to care either. The rule
+was on the board, and, if any officious officer was to come round from
+Constantinople, he could always be shown it, and assured it was strictly
+obeyed.
+
+On one occasion a notice was suddenly put up, informing us that all
+lights henceforth must be put out at 9.30 p.m. It was thought advisable
+to do so the first night; the second night, the time was about 9.45; and
+after that we continued to go to bed when we pleased, and were never
+bothered any more about it.
+
+Owing to the tremendously high price of kerosine, Daylight Saving soon
+came into force, and saved us a great deal.
+
+The sentries, on the whole, were a very good-natured lot and would never
+have worried us with restrictions as far as they themselves were
+concerned. They were mostly old men who had served in previous wars and,
+until called up, were living on their own small farms. One of the best
+of them was "Johnnie Walker," a little man who had a most extraordinary
+stride and could walk any of us to a standstill. We always tried to get
+him when going for a long walk, knowing that from personal motives he
+would never stop us going a good distance. Another favourite was
+"Ginger," a very harmless old fellow with sandy whiskers. As one went
+past, he would lean over and whisper confidentially: "Ginger
+fennah?"--Is Ginger a bad fellow? Every now and then they went to their
+homes on leave and came back with a few pounds of butter or a bag of
+wheatmeal, which they sold to us without much difficulty.
+
+On our arrival, the only weapons the guard possessed were ancient
+pinfire rifles, firing a huge lump of lead. Each man had exactly two
+rounds in his possession. Later on some rather younger men came, armed
+with captured Russian rifles.
+
+We soon managed to hire a field for football. It was very stony and by
+no means level, but, nevertheless, was a great acquisition. As a rule,
+each group of houses used it three days a week. To start with, we only
+had a Soccer case and no bladder. We stuffed the case with grass and
+played a very modified form of Rugger, where collaring was disallowed on
+account of the stones, and punting and place kicking forbidden in order
+to preserve the life of the ball. After some weeks we got some proper
+footballs from Constantinople, and others came eventually from home. We
+played matches against the other group of houses, Regulars _v._
+Irregulars, and every other thing we could think of. Soccer Sixes caused
+much excitement and a local firm of bookmakers, who came into existence
+for the occasion, did a large business.
+
+We could always rely on getting out somewhere every day. During the
+early summer we had splendid walks two days a week over the hills in the
+mornings. These long walks did not suit everybody, and a gentle form of
+meandering had to be organized for the "slugs." On one celebrated
+occasion, we walked out about five miles, taking our lunch, and had a
+very cheery picnic, but this was never allowed again, and in July 1917
+all long walks were suddenly stopped, and we were barely allowed outside
+the boundaries of the town.
+
+For news of the outer world, we were dependent upon the local telegrams,
+which the best Turkish scholars used to translate, and also upon the
+"Hilal," a German-run paper, printed in Constantinople. This paper, of
+which we used to receive the French Edition, had been started for
+propaganda purposes at the beginning of the war. The news was,
+naturally, very one-sided, but, reading between the lines, one could
+tell fairly well what was the position on the Western Front. In
+addition, we had maps, and could follow the places mentioned, when, as
+during the Somme offensive, the Germans, "according to our preconceived
+plan," took up a position some miles in rear of their last. A serial
+story which ran for some time in this paper was called "L'evade de
+Tsingtau," and gave the adventures of a German, who having escaped from
+Tsingtau after the Japanese had taken it, reached America, was caught
+while trying to cross to Germany, spent some time in Donnington Hall,
+but finally succeeded in escaping, and swam off from near Tilbury to a
+Dutch ship lying in the river, thus getting clear away. Whether true or
+not, it made a wonderful story.
+
+News carefully camouflaged in our letters from home invariably arrived
+safely; in fact, the Turks never troubled to censor anything in the
+letters we received. On the other hand, every now and then some
+officious creature in Constantinople would systematically cut up our
+long letters, which we were allowed to write twice a month, and only
+send on the first two and last two lines.
+
+There were always plenty of rumours amongst the Greek shopkeepers in the
+bazaar. For instance, we were told the British had taken Bagdad long
+before they did, and our troops in Palestine were always said to be
+within three or four marches of Aleppo; the Russians were just outside
+Sivas, and Trieste had been taken by the Italians. The Turks themselves
+never believed these stories, and, in fact, even when the armistice was
+signed, many of them in country districts had not heard that Bagdad was
+in our possession. They received no letters from their friends at the
+front, no casualty lists were published, and the only news that seemed
+to reach them by post was a few letters from Turks we had taken to Burma
+as prisoners, who seemed to be very happy and contented.
+
+The country people never showed any "hate" against us, but the
+authorities used to make this an excuse for curtailing our walks, saying
+how fanatical the village people were in the neighbourhood.
+
+Apart from football matches, we employed ourselves in various ways.
+There were soon two or three well-established firms of carpenters, who
+did a great deal of work and made a lot of furniture. Others took to
+cobbling, and had plenty to do to keep our boots in order. A good many
+studied various languages, but Turkish was not very popular, as no one
+expected ever to want it again when once they had left the country.
+
+We had quite a good library, and books came through without much trouble
+in parcels from home.
+
+A long series of lectures were held during the winter, every one who
+could do so lecturing to the rest of us. It is wonderful what a
+comprehensive programme can be formed when one is really put to it.
+
+Another intellectual effort was a debating society; but this did not
+have a very long life.
+
+Our greatest achievement was undoubtedly the band. This was started in
+the spring of 1917, under the auspices of our new commandant, who was
+very keen about it. At first there were only two or three violins which
+had been discovered in the bazaar, then others were found, also some
+clarionets; drums and banjos were soon made, and, finally--greatest
+triumph of all--two 'cellos and a double bass were manufactured by our
+most progressive firm of carpenters. Altogether, the band numbered about
+sixteen. At the start they had no music, and Lieut. Parsons, R.F.A., who
+conducted, had to score the parts for a number of pieces, most of which
+were wonderfully successful. Later on, music came from home, and
+concerts were given twice a week.
+
+We even had a little dancing on one or two occasions, and one day the
+commandant brought two or three Greek and Armenian ladies. This was such
+a success that he became very excited and declared "Next veek plenty
+lady kom." Life seemed to be improving all round, but it was too good to
+last, and suddenly everything was stopped. The commandant got into hot
+water with the other Turkish authorities in the town, who had probably
+reported him behind his back to Constantinople. Our walks were suddenly
+curtailed and no long walks allowed. Had the little man been able to
+stand up for himself, things would have been much better, but he was
+much too scared to take a strong line, and a few days later departed for
+Eski-Chehir to take the place of the commandant there, who, in turn, was
+to come to Kastamuni.
+
+During the winter of 1916, prices began to rise rapidly in the bazaar
+and this went on all through 1917, until in 1918 all prisoners had great
+difficulty in getting food, even in the new camps, which were said to be
+better off in this respect than Kastamuni.
+
+When we first arrived, there was a small amount of silver money in
+circulation, the smallest notes which were just being introduced being
+20 and 5 piastres--3s. 4d. and 10d. in ordinary times. Not long
+afterwards, these were followed by 2-1/2 and 1 piastre notes, which
+carried pictures of the Dardanelles and Kut on the back, Kut being quite
+unrecognizable. For smaller change recourse had to be taken to stamps
+and by midsummer of 1917 no coins of any sort were to be seen.
+
+Money came through to us in various ways, but the best exchange we could
+get was by cashing undated cheques with the Greek shopkeepers in the
+town, who gave us 160 piastres to the pound, whereas through the Dutch
+Embassy we could only get 140, the exchange rate before the war being
+112. The shopkeepers would not be able to cash these cheques till the
+end of the war, and it says something for the reputation of a British
+cheque that they would accept them on such conditions. They undoubtedly
+regarded such cheques as being a very much safer asset than the Turkish
+paper money, which was the only alternative, and, at the end of the war,
+would very likely be suddenly repudiated by a paternal Government.
+
+We were paid by the Turks at the rate they pay their own officers, the
+equivalent of this being deducted from our accounts by the War Office.
+
+On the way up from Kut we were given one month's pay in Bagdad, which
+for senior officers was on a comparatively generous scale. However, on
+reaching Kastamuni, these unfortunates were told that the Bagdad rates
+were quite wrong, and they were now to pay up the difference; this took
+several months in many cases.
+
+Happily for us, soon after our arrival, the Red Cross came to our
+assistance, working through the American Embassy in Constantinople. They
+gave us LT.3 a month, which, with a subaltern's allowance of LT.7 as pay
+from the Turks, made it just possible to carry on.
+
+As food got more expensive, the Red Cross increased their allowance to
+LT.5 a month, and had finally to increase this still further.
+
+In May and June 1917, some additional orderlies arrived; these men had
+been in other camps up till then, and were not all Kut prisoners, some
+having been taken in the Dardanelles and others in Egypt. They brought
+dreadful stories of the treatment of the troops during the first few
+months, and it became clear that at least two-thirds of the Kut garrison
+were already dead. The last news they had heard was that all fit
+prisoners were being sent back to the North of Syria to work on the
+railway there. As conditions were very bad in that district when we came
+through in 1916, no one can say what those who returned a year later had
+to go through. This area was considered as one under military
+operations, and was, therefore, excluded from the agreement finally come
+to by which the Dutch Embassy in Constantinople was to inspect the
+various camps.
+
+Unfortunately, some of these new orderlies contracted typhus on their
+way to Kastamuni, at one of the dirty halting-places, and three
+succumbed. They were buried beside three officers whom we had already
+laid to rest, in a little cemetery at the top of the hill overlooking
+the town, near the slope where the Greeks and Armenians are buried.
+Wooden crosses were at first put up over the graves, but these were at
+once torn up and stolen by the Turkish peasants. We then obtained heavy
+slabs of stone, on which a cross was carved and the names cut. A wall
+was built round the little spot, a number of officers going up every
+morning and working hard until it was completed. Now that no British
+prisoners are left in Kastamuni, one hopes that the little cemetery will
+be allowed to remain undisturbed on the bare hillside.
+
+During the summer of 1917, a number of officers were in favour of
+getting the Turks to move the camp from Kastamuni to some place nearer
+to the railway, as it was thought that it would then be easier to obtain
+supplies of wood and fuel during the coming winter. It is doubtful if
+this would have been the case, but an official request was sent to
+Constantinople. Towards the end of July 1917, our liberties were
+considerably curtailed for no apparent reason, and after the escape of
+our party, on August 8th, very severe restrictions were imposed.
+
+Nowhere in Turkey could life in 1917-18 be considered amenable, since
+food was so short in all districts. This, combined with the depreciation
+in the paper money, kept prices very high and made messing a great
+problem; if parcels could have got through more quickly from home it
+would have made a big difference.
+
+At the end of September, the first batch of officers was moved to
+Changri, and the remainder followed early in October. At Changri
+accommodation was provided in a dirty Turkish barrack, which, besides
+needing very extensive cleansing, required much glass in the windows.
+Shortly afterwards, two-thirds of the officers left for Gedos, a small
+place about a hundred miles east of Smyrna, where they were placed on
+parole, and given liberty to go where they pleased unguarded. The
+remainder stayed for some months at Changri, where they had managed to
+make themselves fairly comfortable, although only allowed to go out to a
+neighbouring field for exercise. Later, however, they were sent to
+Yozgad, the camp to which the first half of the Kut officers had
+originally been sent.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+ESCAPE FROM KASTAMUNI
+
+
+Returning to events in Kastamuni, in November 1916 a little more housing
+accommodation had become available for us, and as a result I found
+myself sharing a good room with Keeling, a lieutenant in the I.A.R.O.
+One evening, soon afterwards, I asked him if he would make an effort
+with me to reach the Russians if, as we hoped, they should advance
+further west from their lines, which were then running due south to
+Erzinjan from a point a little way west of Trebizond. He replied that he
+had long been thinking of it, and had made a start towards preparing for
+such an effort by carefully preserving two 1 lb. tins of chocolate which
+he had received from home!
+
+At that time such a journey meant a distance of 300 miles across country
+from Kastamuni, and we considered it quite hopeless in view of the
+mountainous country to be passed. It was also obvious that any attempt
+to get a long distance across country would stand a much better chance
+if made in the summer time. It would be impossible to carry enough food
+and we should have to fall back on such crops, fruit and vegetables as
+might be ripe and obtainable. We thought April or May would be the
+earliest possible month. Another alternative was to get to the coast,
+only 38 miles as the crow flies, and then to steal a boat. This
+necessitated having one man in the party who knew how to sail a boat,
+and added a big risk in the very fact of having to launch a boat
+secretly and get away from a coast which as far as we could hear was
+well guarded.
+
+The general opinion was that it was quite hopeless to try to get away.
+This belief was shared by the senior officers and, under pressure from
+the Turkish commandant, most people gave their parole not to try to
+escape under present conditions. About ten of us refused: some because
+they believed such an act was definitely against Army rules, and the
+others, like ourselves, because they hoped for a chance to get away and
+considered that they were justified in taking such a chance if it seemed
+to offer any possibility of success. Pressure was brought to bear upon
+us by the Turks to change our views; but we remained firm. We were told
+our liberty would be curtailed; we would be put in a separate house by
+ourselves; while the others were to get additional liberty. What
+actually happened was exactly nothing, and we all went on precisely as
+before. It appeared to be merely a dodge on the part of the Turks to
+save themselves trouble and responsibility. From time to time, owing to
+various good reasons, many others withdrew their parole, and by the date
+we departed--August 8th, 1917--nearly half the officers must have
+followed suit.
+
+In the meanwhile K. and I had been trying to collect information and had
+been sounding a few other officers. It was very hard to get anything
+which was at all trustworthy: some reports said there were no boats on
+the coast, others that a boat could probably be obtained. One Greek told
+us that it would be impossible to get through to the Russian lines, as
+the people east of Samsun were so wild and savage. This man was making
+plenty of money out of us in his professional capacity, and evidently
+did not wish any disturbances between us and the Turks to imperil his
+tranquillity and source of gain. We were not therefore much influenced
+by his fears.
+
+Maps were a necessity, and the only one we had was on a scale of 32
+miles to an inch. I made tracings of this, so as to have duplicate
+copies, but the scale was too small to be of much use beyond showing the
+general trend of the country. I also succeeded in making a compass of a
+rough description by fixing a dial to some magnetic needles and
+suspending it with a thread. Fortunately, however, a little later, we
+discovered a shop in the town where we could buy some cheap but
+tolerably serviceable compasses, and secured several of these, taking
+care that the sentry with us did not see what we were buying. The best
+map we had seen was hanging up in our commandant's office. This was a
+German one and to a scale of about seven miles to an inch. No
+opportunity occurred, unfortunately, of being able to copy it. It showed
+us, however, a large number of farms and villages sprinkled over the
+countryside. The Russians had advanced no further, and the only plan at
+all feasible seemed to be to get a boat on the coast and make for
+Trebizond.
+
+As the summer began our discussions took a more practical shape, and we
+got in touch with people who were in a position to know something
+trustworthy. One of those we approached was an interned Ally. Under
+various pretexts I succeeded in getting a sentry to come with me to his
+house, which was strictly against the rules, saying I wanted to buy a
+guitar. On arrival he produced the guitar, and while pretending to try
+it we discussed the possibility of getting away. He considered that it
+would be possible to get a boat on the coast at Ineboli and suggested
+sending someone he could trust to find out how things stood and if
+possible to make arrangements. Conversation was not too easy, as his
+knowledge of English was very sketchy and I knew nothing of his
+language; also the sentry was present, so that everything had to appear
+to be about the guitar and no names of places mentioned aloud. A little
+money and cigarettes to the sentry ensured his not talking later about
+where we had been, and I endeavoured to get the same man on the next
+occasion. One day at this house I met a fellow countryman who as a
+civilian had been interned at Constantinople. For some reason the Turks
+had become more suspicious and he had been packed off to Kastamuni. He
+gave me some useful information about the state of the country further
+east, but was not at all hopeful of our getting through. I did not see
+him again, as he was naturally very loth to be seen speaking to any of
+us, as that would mean his being sent out to live in one of the small
+villages away from every vestige of civilization. Meanwhile K. had been
+interviewing one or two people whom we thought might be trusted. For
+this purpose an appointment was generally made at the Hamam, or Turkish
+bath. We were allowed to go to these baths, of which there were a large
+number in the town, whenever we liked, and, as the sentry always stayed
+in the entrance hall, one could speak freely to anyone inside. On the
+whole these Allies recommended us not to make any attempt, one saying
+that had it been possible he himself would of course have gone long ago.
+Actually, they were afraid of trying anything of the sort or being in
+any way implicated by us.
+
+We discussed the proposal of my friend with some of the others and
+decided to try his suggestion. Accordingly ten of us collected about 50
+liras--one lira equals 18s. 6d. nominally--which was handed to him. He
+in turn was to arrange with a Greek who was going to the coast and
+promised to bring back the information we needed. After some delay he
+finally departed, and, as we had feared, never turned up again.
+
+Some of those who had subscribed considered any attempt without
+previously obtaining a boat to be hopeless and, when the Greek never
+returned, the number who were keen to go was reduced to half a dozen.
+Much discussion followed as to the size of the party, whether there
+should be two parties and who should go in which, and what routes should
+be followed. Eventually only four of us prepared to start, the others
+promising to give us all the support they could. Our party now consisted
+of Captains R. J. Tipton, R.F.C., R. T. Sweet, 2/7th Ghurkas, Lieut. E.
+H. Keeling, and myself, both of the I.A.R.O. "Tip" had been taken in
+Egypt, while we three had all been in Kut.
+
+There were two possible ways of getting out of the camp, or rather away
+from the street in which we lived, and either seemed fairly easy to
+arrange.
+
+In order to get our provisions ready, we had to take one or two of the
+British orderlies into our confidence. We decided after much scheming
+that we would take 20 lb. of food each, consisting of 11 lb. of
+biscuits, 2-1/2 lb. of cheese, 2-1/2 lb. of smoked meat, 1-3/4 lb. of
+chocolate, 1-1/2 lb. of Horlick's Malted Milk and the remainder of soup
+squares, cocoa and sugar, with a box of tea tabloids. The biscuits were
+made of good white flour, for which we had at that time to pay an
+exorbitant price as it was almost unobtainable; butter and sugar, which
+were also appallingly expensive, were added. Some were made with
+raisins, all being baked as hard as possible to save weight. These, with
+raisins, proved much the most popular subsequently. Our mess cook,
+Gunner Prosser, R.F.A., made most of the biscuits and was very keen to
+do all he could to help us. In order to keep things dark we told as few
+people as possible, but several people must have suspected us before we
+finally took our departure. The all-important question of the food to be
+carried caused much discussion before the final schedule was drawn up.
+Some were for taking one solid lump of duff instead of biscuits, but the
+latter won the day as containing less water and being therefore of more
+value weight for weight. K. had a profound belief in Horlick's Malted
+Milk, which was fully justified by our subsequent experience. For some
+days prior to our departure a notice on the board, which was used by
+people who wished to exchange contents of parcels from home, informed
+all and sundry that Lt. K. could offer a very large variety of articles,
+ranging from honey to socks, in exchange for Malted Milk. This resulted
+in most of our supply being obtained. The question of meat was
+difficult, as tinned stuff received from home was too heavy and there
+was nothing to be got in the bazaar but smoked mutton, which was not
+very appetizing. Eventually, we decided on the mutton. We had a good
+many soup squares of different kinds, but on the journey we wished we
+had had more cocoa instead. We decided to pack as much food as possible
+in small bags, for which some puggaree cloth came in handy, and an old
+pillow-case made a good receptacle for the biscuits. K. spent a long
+time sewing up small bags and in generally thinking out and preparing
+for all eventualities.
+
+In the event of our being forced to buy food, we had decided that our
+only chance was to pretend we were Germans, since the country people,
+while seeing we were not Turks, would be too ignorant to know any
+difference between Briton and Hun. This also fell in well with our plan
+of going in uniform. To make things more secure we forged a passport.
+This was written out by Captain Rich, 120th Infantry, who knew Turkish
+fairly well, and purported to be a letter from the Army commander at
+Angora to Hauptmann Hermann von Below, who, with three German orderlies,
+was said to be travelling on a surveying expedition. It was requested
+that the utmost facilities should be given him in his work. The name of
+the Army commander we had managed to obtain correctly, and this was
+signed in a different hand and ink. A seal was also appended, as is
+usual in all Turkish documents, and suitably smudged so that the name
+which did not correspond with the signature might be illegible.
+
+A volume dealing with woodcraft was perused by K., who discovered that
+the ordinary type of rock lichen was a highly nutritious food and, also,
+that nearly all forms of toad-stool were equally useful. We hoped not to
+need such emergency rations and, fortunately, never got to that stage in
+our subsequent adventures. Over and above the 20 lb. of food we
+estimated that each one would need to carry 10 lb. more in kit and
+equipment, the former comprising a spare pair of socks, a "woolly" and
+vest or something similar, and the latter a haversack and waterbottle,
+matches, knife, spoon and soap. In addition we carried a sail, about 40
+feet of light rope, a light axe head, two canteens, a safety razor,
+housewife, nails and thread for repairing boots, maps, and compasses.
+These were divided up into equal weights between the four of us. The
+sail was rather a work of art. It was made in two pieces from a bed
+sheet, the lining of two Wolseley valises and a couple of towels. With
+the help of a sailor friend, Lieut. Nicholson, R.N.R., we roped it all
+round. It measured about 10 ft. by 7 ft. 6 in., and weighed complete
+about 7 lb. The idea was that, having discovered a boat and if need be
+hewn down a small tree for a mast, we would paddle off from the coast
+and put up the sail as quickly as possible after sewing the two pieces
+together. Tip was to be our navigator, as he had done a good deal of
+sailing in pre-war days.
+
+As Sweet was the only man with a rucksack, we three had to make our own.
+This meant a good deal of laborious sewing. My own was laid on the
+foundation of a khaki drill bag originally received in Mesopotamia with
+gifts from the ladies of Bombay; this was reinforced with an old pair of
+braces and the necessary webbing sewn on. It proved a most useful
+article and stood the journey wonderfully well, although getting
+somewhat soiled in appearance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE FIRST NIGHT
+
+
+It was not the easiest thing in the world to hold our meetings,
+accomplish our sewing and complete the sail without being interrupted by
+other people or giving the show away. Our excuses for keeping many
+people out of our room must have seemed rather thin on many occasions,
+and certainly gave rise to suspicion in one quarter. One day the
+interpreter Napoleon came to the door, but luckily suspected nothing and
+departed. Napoleon had been of great service to us after the wretched
+Greek interpreter we had had on our arrival, and we hoped our departure
+would not get him into trouble. We instructed our orderly to endeavour
+to put Napoleon off the track the morning after we had gone. The rule
+was that we had to report to him at ten in the morning as well as at
+night. Very often people omitted to do so, but in that case he generally
+wandered round quietly until he had seen they were still present. Our
+confederates amongst the officers promised to say we had all gone up the
+hill to work at the cemetery to which a party went every day, to
+complete the building of a wall round the graves of the three officers
+and three men whom we had there laid to rest.
+
+In addition, we left a letter supposed to be written by Sweet to me,
+talking of our proposed route and saying that he agreed we had much
+better go towards Sivas, and giving a number of villages _en route_.
+This was supposed to be destroyed, and was to be found by accident by
+our orderly in a crumpled condition when and not until our escape was
+fully realized by the Turks. Our exit was to be made from a side door
+into an alley leading off the main street. This door was nailed up, but,
+like so many things in Turkey, it was done in a very slip-shod fashion
+with two boards having only two nails through each. To reach the door,
+entrance had to be obtained to a back garden, and this meant passing
+through another door which was padlocked every evening. Investigation
+proved that, though the padlock seemed sound, the staple might very
+easily be withdrawn and replaced afterwards. Six officers helped us
+enormously on the night we actually started. They were Major Corbett
+and Captain Raynor, 48th Pioneers, Captain R. Lowndes, R.G.A., Lieuts.
+Dooley, Cawley-Smith and Galloway, all I.A.R.O. Three opened the doors
+while another drowned their efforts by doing some violent bed repairing
+in a front room, this necessitating much hammering. The others kept a
+look-out on the sentries in the road or engaged them in amiable
+conversation in their best Turkish.
+
+It had been difficult to decide which night to start. We had no tables
+giving the time the moon would rise and wanted to arrange to have a good
+hour of darkness after getting out. Finally we decided to start on
+Wednesday night, August 8th, at 10 p.m. Sweet, who lived in the other
+group of houses, arranged to come to dinner in our mess, being invited
+by Captain Martin, I.M.S., who not only assisted us in selecting our
+food but placed his room at our disposal for storing our kit and
+assembling in just before starting. Our plan was to wait behind the door
+in the alley until our mess cook, Prosser, should come and tap on the
+further side to show that all was clear. This man was in the habit of
+often going out after dark into the town disguised in an old coat, a
+fez, and a sham beard which he had himself made out of goat-skins. His
+usual practice was to put the fez and beard on in the road and walk
+straight up past the sentries. On the night in question he got out in
+some such way and reconnoitred the route we should have to take to get
+out of the town on to the hill. Luckily we were on the edge of the town
+and a climb of two or three hundred yards through houses would take us
+out on to a Mohammedan graveyard on the hillside. As we were waiting
+silently in the dark behind the door, somebody gave a kerosine tin a
+kick, and the resulting clatter seemed bound to bring some one down upon
+us. However, nothing happened; but a moment or two later we heard a
+heavy tread going slowly up the alley.
+
+Our friends, watching, reported that this was the sergeant of the guard
+and we began to feel anxious. After another minute a tap came on the
+door. Our orderly had seen the sergeant safely into a small mosque round
+the corner, and everything was clear. We hurried out in single file,
+endeavouring to be quite silent but seeming to make an awful noise. I
+was wearing a pair of rope sole shoes and carrying my boots while the
+others had put old socks over their boots. In spite of our anything but
+noiseless departure we were not noticed. We scrambled up the hill and
+five minutes later were under cover in the graveyard. Here we put our
+rucksacks and coats on properly and prepared for an all-night trek. In
+order to look less like officers and more like local scallywags we had
+turned our coats inside out and also carried our packs in a blanket over
+one shoulder. We had decided to wear old khaki, so as to be able to
+prove we were really British if necessary in case of accidents or bad
+luck. After taking us a little further, our orderly friend shook hands
+with us all round, and with a quiet word of farewell and thanks for his
+invaluable assistance we set off on our adventure.
+
+We had to make a detour round the north of the town across the main
+valley to get out to the hills on the east. It was a clear, starry
+night, but even so it was extraordinarily difficult to recognize the
+hillsides which we knew quite well by daylight. Hardly had we gone a
+quarter of a mile before a dog began to bark on the main road a little
+way off. Later on, we did not pay much attention to dogs, as we
+generally started at least one every night by walking near a village or
+too close to houses; but this animal, being the first and so near to the
+town, was anything but pleasant to listen to. We scrambled down a steep
+bank across a nullah and up a gully running into a hill which we had to
+climb. The main nullah we had just crossed ran down towards the road
+passing the magazine, where by day there was always a guard. However,
+the dog soon ceased his complaint and quietness reigned. We were already
+beginning to feel the weights of our packs and, as the night was warm
+and our direction led up the stony, pathless side of a steep hill, we
+soon had to call a halt. In fact, although we did not admit it to each
+other, these moments were really almost the worst of our whole trip and
+each secretly thought what an idiot he had been ever to start. Having
+started, however, there was nothing for it but to continue and after a
+few minutes' rest we trudged on. A little further brought us out on the
+top, where we were annoyed to find that the moon was already well up,
+whereas we had reckoned on at least another half-hour of darkness.
+
+During the last few days, we had carefully timed the moon's rising, and
+endeavoured to foretell the time for the night of our venture from
+comparisons with last year's almanac, which was all we had to go upon.
+
+On the top of the hill, we could just make out the big square of the
+Turkish barracks lying down in the valley, a building which we had
+passed almost every day during the last year on our way to the football
+ground or on walks. Sweet wanted to give it a much wider berth than I
+had intended, and in consequence we were longer in getting down to the
+Ineboli road which had to be crossed. What was our horror when we did
+approach it to hear the creaking of country carts coming up towards the
+town. They seemed to be nearly opposite to us and, as there was little
+cover and the moon bright, the only thing to do was to lie down in the
+ditch where we were and hope the carts would pass. We waited some time,
+but yet more carts seemed to be approaching and the drivers of others
+had halted almost opposite to us. There was nothing for it but to turn
+back and try again lower down the road. After creeping back a little way
+on all fours, we made a circle and came out into an open field, heading
+once more for the road. Here we were dismayed to hear yet another cart
+coming. There was no cover this time, not even a ditch, so we had to
+make a dash for it. This succeeded, and we were across the road and some
+little distance into a field of high crops on the far side before the
+carts passed. These carts were evidently coming into the town for the
+following day's market, but we had not counted on meeting any at all.
+We were now in the centre of the valley, and after crossing the stream
+made our way over some more fields to the Sinope road which we crossed
+without further adventure.
+
+We had now reached open country, and after another half-mile rested
+again. We were all feeling a bit done up and thought we had taken too
+much kit. On starting again, we found that so far we were on the right
+track, but from now onwards we were going on a line we had not been on
+before even by day, and we regretted afterwards we had not for this
+first night kept straight on down the main Sinope road, along which we
+could have made good going, although it did not lead due east, which was
+the direction we had planned. There were guard houses at intervals on
+this road, but I knew it for the first ten miles, having driven out with
+my colonel once when he was allowed a carriage to go fishing, this being
+a special favour which ceased to be granted as soon as the commandant of
+the town got to hear about it.
+
+After several miles of up and down going, we reached the first river we
+had to cross. Along each side were irrigated maize-fields, but,
+fortunately, we managed to get through these and over the stream without
+coming to any houses or dogs, although there were villages and farms
+quite close. Another ascent met us on the further side and we plodded
+slowly on. The country was mostly open pasture and plough-land and there
+were few trees except those beside the streams in the valleys.
+Eventually, we got to the top of the ridge and a little later found
+ourselves overlooking another deep valley with a stream running a
+thousand feet below us. After a steep scramble down, we reached the
+water and called a halt. A tin of tongue presented by some one at the
+last minute was opened and eagerly consumed. It was now about 3 a.m. and
+we had not much more than another hour and a half to two hours before
+daylight, when we had to be safely under cover. On leaving the stream,
+we found we were not far from a hamlet, and roused the attentions of
+another dog. However, we plodded on once more. We could now see woods in
+the distance but, before reaching them, had some difficult country to
+cross. Tip and K. were feeling very done up and, as there were signs of
+dawn and other dogs taking up the hue and cry, we began to feel a bit
+anxious. These dogs seemed to be approaching from a village; but we just
+managed to get away from them, although it seemed that they must rouse
+the whole countryside. During our next halt of a few minutes, we heard
+a cart coming along from the village, and, evidently, the peasants were
+already starting on the toil of another long harvest day, even though it
+was only just beginning to get light. Sweet and I had gone on, and on
+looking back could see no signs of the others. We went back a little way
+and luckily found them. We had just scrambled up a steep hill and were
+all fairly well done up. A little further took us to a pine wood, where
+we decided to lie up for the day. We lay just inside while the cart we
+had heard approached and passed on up the track we had just left. Then
+we turned and went into the wood, only to find, however, that sheep
+tracks ran everywhere and that the wood itself only extended two hundred
+yards to the top of the ridge where there were open fields--also, what
+was worse still, no part of the wood was really thick or offered good
+cover. Still, now it was too late to go on even if we had had the
+energy, and the only thing to do was to stay and make the best of it and
+trust to luck. We looked to each side, but the sheep-tracks were almost
+as thick in all directions. This meant that at any time, but
+particularly in the evening, we might expect a flock to come along and
+that would also mean a man or a boy and a dog.
+
+It was, indeed, fortunate for our peace of mind during this first day
+that we did not know how soon our departure had been discovered.
+Actually, this was found out within two hours of our leaving, Sweet's
+absence being first ascertained by Sherif Bey, who simply snorted with
+rage and fury. What had happened was that our orderly was very nearly
+caught while trying to return to his quarters: he had to run for it, and
+in so doing lost one of his shoes. He got in safely, however, and had at
+once to destroy the other shoe. A few minutes later the Turkish guard
+came round, searching for the odd shoe, and listened carefully to the
+breathing and heart-beats of every orderly to see which one had been
+running. Luckily, however, our friend Prosser had had just long enough
+to compose himself in bed and was not detected.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+ON THE HILLS
+
+
+We made a breakfast from condensed milk and a small ration of biscuit
+and some cheese. We dared not make a fire, as people were working on the
+crops not very far away. After this we took it in turns to keep watch at
+the top edge of the wood. From this point a fine view could be had
+across the ridges back towards Kastamuni, although the town itself was
+hidden in the valley. One track was clearly visible and it was along
+this we expected to see signs of pursuit, if any; but there was nothing
+to be seen. The morning was perfect, and the country spread away in the
+sunshine back towards our old haunts. We appeared to have made at the
+very least ten miles from Kastamuni as the crow flies, but actually had
+marched much further owing to the detour round the town and our
+cross-country up and down route since. Towards the east more and higher
+hills could be seen, but we had to be careful of reconnoitring, as
+there were flocks of sheep on the slopes not far away. All of us had
+sundry adjustments to make in our kit, which we felt we must lighten to
+enable us to make better going. My own costume consisted of an old and
+thin British warm over either a thin shirt or vest with old riding
+breeches and puttees. The others had regulation tunics, and Sweet was
+highly respectable, his uniform being nearly new. In the event of our
+posing as Germans we decided he must be the Herr Hauptmann, as in
+addition to his better clothes he knew more Turkish than the rest of us.
+
+[Illustration: MAP (SLIGHTLY REDUCED) USED ON JOURNEY TO BLACK SEA
+
+_(From Sir Henry Sykes "History of Persia")_]
+
+I set about a ruthless lightening of my coat by ripping out the lining,
+cutting off the turned-back cuffs and all other small portions that
+could be spared. We found it difficult to sleep, but felt good for
+another effort as soon as it began to get dark. About three o'clock, we
+relinquished our observation post, as all seemed quiet, and made another
+meal. Hardly had we finished before a dog appeared at the edge of the
+wood, and started barking as only Turkish dogs seem able to. A few
+moments later the expected boy also turned up and stared down upon us
+after quieting the dog. We thought this meant the village being roused
+at once, and deputed Sweet to go and spin a big yarn of some sort to
+the boy. He had scarcely got up before the boy vanished. The only thing
+to do now was to pack up and be off at once. This did not take long, as
+we had purposely remained ready to move at short notice. I abandoned in
+a bush my rope sole shoes which I had carried so far, and did not regret
+it, as they were some weight and very slippery to walk in. After
+creeping along, just inside the wood at the top of the slope, for a
+short distance, we found we were getting near a farm and could not go
+further before dark. We could not see the boy, but one or two sheep-dogs
+were visible not far off and matters did not look at all hopeful.
+However, no hue and cry followed, and very likely the boy had been as
+frightened of us as we of him, or he may have thought we were merely out
+from Kastamuni for a walk--although we had never been nearly so far
+before.
+
+After waiting an hour at the edge of the wood, we saw the sheep
+approaching and knew they must be returning towards the farm. We got
+down the slope back into the wood and as much as possible off their
+line. There was a little more cover here, but still it was rather thin,
+and we could easily have been spotted by anyone looking for us. By and
+by the sheep trooped past, but no dog came near us and once more we
+breathed freely. To improve our prospects, it now began to cloud over
+and we had some rain. A dark cloudy night for cross-country tramping was
+anything but what we required; fortunately, it cleared later on,
+although even then it was black enough until the moon got up. Before
+starting again, the question of weight of kit had to be tackled and,
+although loath to part with any of our food, we decided to discard about
+two to three pounds each. For this sacrifice most of our cheese and meat
+was condemned. It seemed likely that the former would not remain good
+for very long, so that it was not much loss.
+
+We decided to make a start before it got dark, and halt for food when we
+reached the river which we judged must run in the deep valley we were
+about to enter. Accordingly, we left the wood at 7.30 and set off across
+the corn-fields. A very steep and stony descent followed, and by the
+time we struck a road along the valley it was quite dark. We followed
+this road a short distance until we saw a light in a house a little way
+ahead. We then turned off and went straight down to the stream, where we
+proceeded to drink at length and then bathe. During this bathe in the
+dark, I lost my soap, which was a great calamity, and Tip his knife. We
+dared not strike a light and had to be content to go on without. After a
+light meal, we went on up-stream. There appeared to be a ceremony of
+some sort going on at the house with a light, as there was a beating of
+drums. We crossed the stream a little higher up, taking off our boots
+and socks for the purpose. Luckily on the other bank we struck a track
+leading up the further side of the valley, which was very steep at this
+point. After climbing slowly up through brushwood in the dark for an
+hour, we came to more open country. Here there were farms, but we
+managed to avoid them successfully. The night had cleared sufficiently
+for us to see the stars, and we were steering a course about due east. A
+little further on, we got into a thick copse and had great difficulty in
+finding any track. Eventually, we emerged on to a road running along the
+ridge beyond which lay the next valley. After a short halt, we got under
+way once more and made a good distance down the road and along a path we
+found running down to the next valley.
+
+We had to pass close through a farm and several houses, but luckily
+there were no dogs. After reaching the next stream and ascending it
+some way, we crossed over and found ourselves in a maize-field. We
+gathered some cobs, which were not yet ripe but would do to cook. A few
+yards further we saw a light in what appeared to be a sheep-pen. This we
+found was the usual custom in the country. All flocks are collected near
+the farm at night and a shepherd with a big resin torch sits up on
+guard. It was now just beginning to get light in the east, so we turned
+up the hill, and after a long and tiring climb found a tolerably safe
+hiding-place in a pine wood, poor K. was very done up and the rest of us
+not much better, except Sweet, who, physically, was the toughest of us
+all. For nine hours we had been on the move, but we could not have done
+more than eight miles in a straight line--though at the time we thought
+it was much more. We lay down, and got two or three hours' sleep before
+preparing our next meal. We decided we would risk making a fire, and
+after hunting about for the most concealed spot boiled water in our
+canteens and made cocoa. This with a ration of biscuit formed our meal;
+in addition, we used to allow ourselves a very small bit of chocolate
+and a little Horlick's milk. The latter by this time had coagulated into
+one sticky lump, necessitating hard work with the point of a knife
+before a fragment could be broken off. Luckily, the fire burned without
+much smoke, and what little there was we endeavoured to mitigate by
+fanning it in different directions. Not long after breakfast, we heard
+two horsemen trotting along a road through the wood and apparently quite
+close. We thought they were probably gendarmes looking for us; but they
+passed on and did not pause to make investigations in our neighbourhood.
+Another visitor also arrived, this being a man who was chopping wood,
+and worked round our knoll for some distance, but never came within
+sight. Nothing further happened, and we spent a quiet day under the
+trees. The weather was perfect, and had we had a little more to eat we
+should have enjoyed it immensely. At five o'clock we made a stew of the
+maize with a little Oxo; and an hour later, after clearing up all traces
+of our activities, set off eastwards through the wood.
+
+We soon reached the edge of the wood, and found ourselves looking
+southwards across a valley to a high range of hills. On the lower slopes
+were several villages; but it was doubtful if people could see us,
+especially as our khaki was an excellent camouflage for this country: in
+fact, this had been a great recommendation to the proposal for marching
+in uniform. However, we endeavoured to keep out of sight; and after
+travelling across the high ground for a mile reached a spot whence we
+could see the country eastwards and choose out our route for the coming
+night. The main valley had turned somewhat, and now ran eastwards
+through a rocky gorge which opened out beyond to a much greater width.
+This seemed to be our best line, and we thought there would surely be a
+track leading up the valley along the stream. At all events, our water
+was finished, and it was urgent to fill up our bottles again as soon as
+we could reach the river. We set off accordingly, but had not gone far
+before some one reported a man coming up the road; we hid for some time,
+and when all was clear went on again, only to find we were descending to
+a field where women were still working, getting in the harvest. This
+necessitated another wait; but as darkness was approaching the women
+soon left the field. In order to help out our scanty stock of food and
+make it go as far as possible, we were always on the look-out for any
+food we could pick up in the fields, and decided to take toll of this
+corn-field. The wheat was ripe and in a few minutes we all had a good
+pocketful, meaning to make a really substantial meal of wheat porridge
+next morning. By the time we reached a path near the bottom of the
+valley it was quite dark. This track seemed to lead downwards towards
+the river, and we followed it, expecting to get to the water any minute,
+but by and by it began to ascend again and then to get rougher and
+harder to find. This was very trying, as we all now wanted water badly,
+and so we finally decided to try a rocky gully leading steeply
+downwards. Sweet led the way, but, being too eager to get down, or
+through bad luck, slipped and hurt his leg in falling over a rock. It
+was very dark in the gully, and two candle ends which Sweet had brought
+proved invaluable. After climbing and crawling down some way over rocks,
+we were finally brought up by a sheer precipice falling 200 feet to the
+river. Tired and disgusted, we sat down to rest, and had to make up our
+minds to climb out the way we had come, and then either to go back
+down-stream or climb right to the top of the valley and advance and get
+down again higher up where the valley opened out. The latter course was
+adopted and, Tip giving us a good lead, we slowly and, in Sweet's case,
+painfully scrambled back. K. also had a bad time, as he was
+short-sighted and in such a dark spot it was no easy matter to get
+along.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+SLOW PROGRESS
+
+
+We all felt dreadfully tired as well as thirsty. The past two nights had
+told on us; and without proper sleep and sufficient food we were not in
+the best trim for a third night of mountaineering. After getting back to
+the track, we had to climb up the side of the ravine, which was steep
+and rocky. Resting every few yards, we eventually reached the top and
+turned up-stream. The point where we had descended the gully must have
+been in almost the narrowest part of the gorge, and we could see that we
+should have to move some way along the crest before we could get down to
+the water. We were still ascending, and after continuing a little
+further decided to lie down till dawn, and then trust to getting down to
+the river and hiding before the country people were about. It was
+hopeless to try to get down again in the dark, even had we possessed the
+strength. Thirsty as we were, we got off to sleep; and, when we woke,
+found it was already beginning to get light. It had got much colder and
+our thirst had accordingly diminished. I had lost my cap the night
+before shortly before we camped, and now luckily managed to find it on
+going back a little way. We pressed on and began to descend again. It
+took us at least an hour down a very steep tree-clad slope. The stones
+we set rolling seemed to make a dreadful noise, but actually must have
+been drowned in the roar of the torrent below. As we neared the river,
+we found we were quite close to a farm; but no one was about, and we got
+down without trouble. How we drank, and what a relief it was to be
+beside water again! After a wash, we set about getting a meal by
+preparing our wheat. It took some time to get all the husks off the
+grain and longer to boil it; but it was very good and filling. Our
+biscuits had numbered originally about thirty-five each, so that as we
+had reckoned on a journey of a fortnight to the coast we only allowed
+ourselves two and a half per day. We made cocoa, in addition to the
+porridge, and went to sleep under the bushes, feeling a great deal
+better than we had done for some hours. Our camp was in a most ideal
+spot. Below us, the river wound down through the gorge, while the steep
+slopes on each side of the valley were covered with magnificent trees.
+There were a great many hazel nuts, but these were not yet ripe or we
+would have gathered a large number.
+
+Later on, we produced our razor and, one by one, for the first time
+since leaving Kastamuni, made ourselves presentable. I got out the
+fishing line I had brought, but had no luck, chiefly owing to there
+being no worms to be seen in the soil on the river bank. The preserved
+meat seemed to have little attraction for the fish, of which there were
+plenty, and our biscuits were too precious to be used up in any way as
+bait.
+
+We started off once more about 6.30, and after some rough going reached
+the wide part of the valley where fields came down to the river. Here we
+were soon brought to a stop by seeing people still at work. Retracing
+our steps, we crossed the stream and started to ascend the northern side
+of the valley, keeping roughly to our easterly direction. After a steep
+ascent, we reached a fair track, along which we made good progress. Once
+or twice we had to wait and hide owing to farm people being about; but
+after it had got quite dark we got on again without interruption. On one
+occasion we passed close to a farm. There was a resin-wood torch
+burning in the yard, and just as we appeared a woman opened a window and
+looked out; we expected her to see us, but possibly the glare from the
+torch was too strong, for she took no notice. By midnight, we had
+reached some high downland, where there seemed to be a large number of
+farms. After lying down for a couple of hours, we started off again; but
+soon lost all sign of our track. Continuing in our direction with the
+help of the stars or compass, we suddenly found ourselves within range
+of some village dogs. These brutes devoted their attention to us long
+and loudly, and there was nothing for it but to get away across the
+fields as fast as we could. After a little time, we found a track which
+presently led into a pine wood. We trudged on through the trees for two
+hours, the track keeping on the crest of the hill and bending round
+gradually towards the north. This wood promised good cover for the next
+day, and as we seemed to have reached its edge we decided to stop here
+all day. We lay down until it grew light and then moved to the best spot
+we could find. This day was Sunday, August 12th, and we can only have
+achieved about 30 miles as the crow flies, although at the time we put
+it at 40.
+
+Having picked no corn the night before, we had to be content with our
+small biscuit and meat ration which we carried, helped out with a
+fragment of Horlick and chocolate. Tip had not been feeling well all
+night and was now in considerable pain. He said porridge always laid him
+out, and our brew, which was not very well boiled, had proved no
+exception. As far as we could tell, it seemed to be appendicitis or
+something very like it. We discussed gloomy possibilities of giving
+ourselves up in the event of his not getting better; but he remained
+determined to push on if he possibly could.
+
+We reconnoitred our route for the coming night and set off again an hour
+before dusk. From the hill on which we had camped we could see a road
+leading in the direction we wanted, down a wide valley, and we
+determined to keep to this for some distance at all events. After
+forcing our way through brushwood to the foot of the hill, we were held
+up by hearing carts approaching and had to hide until they had gone
+past. We used this opportunity for a wash and to fill up our
+water-bottles from a small stream; and then set off again, following the
+carts down the road. After marching for an hour we reached some corn
+stacks and collected more wheat. It took longer than when gathering it
+in an open field, but in half an hour we had accumulated enough, and
+again took the road. We had noticed that, further on, there seemed to be
+a good number of houses in the valley on our right which we should have
+to cross. Our direction now led down towards the river and the track
+passed through a stack yard. We were going quietly forward, when
+suddenly we were surprised by a number of dogs, which burst out upon us
+in full chorus from behind a stack. An old man appeared immediately
+afterwards and quieted the dogs, but luckily made no attempt to question
+us, and we passed on in silence. At night we always wore fezes and hoped
+thus to pass as Turks or Greeks.
+
+A short distance further on, we crossed the stream and then were
+delighted to discover a maize-field, where we gathered a few of the
+biggest cobs we could find. A moment later some one discovered that
+beans and marrows were growing on the ground beneath the maize, so we
+helped ourselves to these also. The beans were of a dwarf French
+variety, which seems to be the most popular kind throughout the
+district. Thus provisioned, we set off up a wide valley leading up in
+front of us.
+
+Poor Tip was having a hard time, and as we had to cross several ploughed
+fields before discovering any path, matters for him became much worse.
+He could manage to get along all right on a smooth path, but rough going
+gave him great pain. Fortunately, the road we now struck had quite a
+fair surface and we made a good pace for the next two hours, assisted by
+the moon. Finally, about 4 a.m., we lay down for an hour, until dawn,
+near the side of the road. We found we had overslept ourselves on
+waking, as it was broad daylight; so we had to hurry off up a small hill
+and hide in the bushes. The country round seemed more deserted in this
+part of the valley and we had got away from cultivated land. As we were
+all now very done up, we decided to move down to the centre of the
+valley, which looked as if it must possess a stream. There we intended
+to hide for the rest of that day and the next. This we thought might
+give Tip a chance to get right again. After resting two or three hours
+on the hill, we scrambled down and eventually emerged in the main
+valley. Just before we reached it we as nearly as possible walked into
+two gendarmes, who were going up the valley road and crossed our path
+about a hundred yards ahead of us. However, they did not see us and all
+was still well. After crossing the main valley and stream, we found a
+small gully on the further side which seemed to offer us good cover, as
+well as having a small supply of water. As we crossed the river bed to
+reach it we came in view of a man and two boys working on an irrigation
+dam a little higher up. Luckily, they had their backs towards us and did
+not notice anything. A little way up the gully, we found a sheltered
+spot to camp in and prepared a meal, chiefly from the vegetables we had
+gathered the night before. We made Tip as comfortable as possible, and
+with the aid of hot compresses succeeded in making him feel easier.
+Nothing occurred during the day, and, after another stew had been
+consumed in the evening, we set about making ourselves comfortable for
+the night. With the aid of fir branches we made a tolerably soft couch.
+Tip, K. and I for purposes of additional warmth slept side by side under
+the most substantial part of the sail, while Sweet, who preferred to be
+on his own, rolled himself up in the lighter piece. We would have much
+enjoyed a little more warmth at nights and, in spite of putting on the
+few spare garments we each carried, we were always much too cold before
+morning.
+
+Our plan now was to follow the road up to the head of the valley and
+then steer as straight as possible for the Geuk Irmak valley, along
+which we knew ran the main road to Sinope. It was clear that we could
+not make fast enough progress at the present rate ever to reach Baffra
+before our provisions gave out; our boots, also, were getting badly worn
+and much work was done in repairs at our various halts. Walking across
+rough country at night had damaged them much more severely than we had
+ever imagined could be the case.
+
+The following day we spent in resting, cooking, and also shaving and
+washing. As one or two people had passed along the road in the
+afternoon, we did not like to make an early start and so waited until it
+was growing dark. For the first mile the track remained fairly good;
+then it forked, and we chose the left-hand branch as leading in the
+direction we wanted most. It was now quite dark and the sky cloudy; but
+what was much worse, the track got more and more indistinct as we slowly
+emerged into open country and fields at the head of the valley. Several
+times we had to halt and spread out to find the path; and then, at last,
+when we did reach a cart track we almost walked right into a big farm.
+After pausing to reconnoitre, we decided to try to skirt it on the
+left, and had got half way round when a sheep-dog heard us and started
+off at full blast. There was a shepherd sitting with a torch in one of
+the farm buildings, but he took no notice. Shortly afterwards we found a
+field of beans to which we helped ourselves, and then had to make a
+diversion to avoid another house. This led us into a pinewood and we
+were soon forced to give it up until morning, as we could see no way
+through in the darkness. We lay down close together and got a few hours'
+sleep before the first sign of daylight roused us to continue our
+journey. We had to pass closer than we liked to a farm; but no one was
+about yet and we got away on to a high ridge covered with brushwood.
+After making our way for a short time along this, we halted and made
+cocoa, which with a biscuit formed our breakfast. By this time our
+biscuits had broken up into small fragments, so that we had to estimate
+how many bits were equal to a whole biscuit. Our experiences of the
+night before forced us to the conclusion that it was hopeless trying to
+do a good march by night unless on a good track; and we, therefore,
+decided to cut across a low cultivated stretch of land to the forest
+covering the opposite ridge and continue by daylight until reaching the
+Geuk Irmak. It was now about nine o'clock and the peasants were at work
+in the fields almost all round us. There was no safe way of reaching the
+woods opposite without exposing ourselves to view, and the only thing
+was to do the best we could and use all the cover available. On getting
+down to a stream from a steep hill, we found we were close to some women
+and children. The latter saw us, but the women were too busy to notice
+us and we reached cover in a nullah on the further side without any
+alarm being raised. Our next encounter was with an old Turk. He saw us
+just before we saw him and was off to ground in some cover before one
+could say knife. Evidently, he was very much more startled at seeing us
+than we were at seeing him. After this we were not seen by any other
+people, and after skirting a harvest field got well into the forest. At
+two o'clock we halted, and having slept for two hours made another stew
+and prepared to go on till dark. We were in a big forest chiefly of huge
+pines which were being cut in places for resin. Our direction was now
+nearly due north, and every rise we topped would, we hoped, bring us in
+view of the Geuk Irmak valley. As is generally the case, the longed-for
+view was very slow in making its appearance, and we had to bivouac for
+the night without reaching our goal. We had passed a small flour mill,
+driven by a water wheel. Sweet had investigated it for flour, but it was
+swept and garnished and absolutely empty.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+BLUFFING THE PEASANTS
+
+
+Next morning we were off at the first streak of dawn, after a very cold
+night. We were in a narrow valley, and look where we would we could not
+find the track we had seen not long before halting the previous night.
+The hills were too steep and wooded to make it possible to get along low
+down by the stream, so there was no other course open except to start
+climbing again in the hope of meeting the track at a higher level. This
+we succeeded in doing after toiling up some distance. Following the
+track, we emerged after a couple of miles on a hill overlooking the long
+expected Geuk Irmak. It was too late in the morning and the
+neighbourhood too populous to make further progress possible, so we
+bivouacked close by in the wood and hoped to make good distance that
+night along the main road in the valley. Starting an hour before dark,
+we were forced to wait for a home-coming couple who were slowly
+returning along the track we were intending to take. When they were
+safely off the scene, we had to scramble down through the thickest copse
+it was ever our misfortune to meet with, and by the time we had reached
+the river it was quite dark. As on all such occasions, we took off our
+boots and socks to cross and replaced them on the other side, only to
+find soon after that there was another branch of the river which we had
+not been able to see in the dark, so that the process had to be
+repeated. Even then we were not over dry-shod, as there were now several
+irrigated fields to be crossed before we could get to the road. Creeping
+along the small bund dividing two fields, we endeavoured to keep on dry
+ground; but were not very successful. Finally, we reached a big
+irrigation nullah, which meant another wade. We were now, at last, on
+the main road; but it had taken us two hours' hard going to get there,
+which was a great disappointment. Soon after starting again, we met a
+couple of men on ponies, driving cattle. At the time we were rather
+separated; Tip and I escaped observation, but Sweet and K. were not so
+lucky, for the men stopped and asked who they were. Sweet promptly said
+"Germans" and gave a few details. The men, however, declared they were
+prisoners, but did not seem disposed to make trouble, and moved on again
+after a few minutes, much to Sweet's relief.
+
+After another hour's trek, we felt too exhausted to go further, and lay
+down, intending to do a little more at dawn. The mosquitoes were a great
+pest in this valley and we had a very poor night's sleep. We had now
+come down to a much lower elevation: Kastamuni was 2,500 feet above sea,
+but this spot could scarcely be 1,000 feet. As soon as it grew light in
+the morning we were off again along the road, after filling up our
+water-bottles from the river and investigating another flour mill which
+proved to be empty. Very soon we came to a picturesque old wooden bridge
+spanning the stream and, after crossing this, decided to lie up for the
+day on the hill-side above. The valley became wider at this point and
+several hamlets and farms were to be seen; it therefore behoved us to
+get under cover as quickly as possible, since the peasants are very
+early astir. We found a good place and lit a fire. This was, perhaps,
+rather rash, but we felt that it was worth risking a good deal to have
+something hot to drink. As we had had no luck in getting vegetables the
+night before, we had to be content with small rations. After an
+uneventful sunny day, we moved down to the road in the evening, and
+after filling our bottles with water from the river gathered some maize
+and marrows from a field close by. We then set off down the road and
+made very fair progress for the next three hours.
+
+Loaded as we were with several extra pounds each of marrow, we got more
+tired than would otherwise have been the case. Eventually, the road led
+us into a village, and we had to walk straight past some people coming
+towards us. They took no notice, however, and we went on. A little
+further, there was a light in a flour mill, which was grinding away as
+hard as it could go, being driven by a small water turbine. There seemed
+to be no track by which we could avoid going right through the village,
+and after retracing our steps once or twice we decided there was nothing
+else for it. We tramped down the road past several old fellows who were
+sitting outside a house and were probably interested in the activities
+of the flour mill. Most likely, by grinding secretly at night, it is
+possible to escape the Government's taxes on flour, but needless to say
+we did not stop to make inquiries. The road seemed to take us nowhere.
+After visiting one or two back yards and coming out in another place on
+top of a house, we had eventually to retrace our steps past the old men
+to the end of the village which we had first entered. How that road made
+its way out we never discovered and, in consequence, lost a good deal of
+time and distance.
+
+After sleeping for a couple of hours in a graveyard, we set off with the
+first streak of dawn to make a circuit round the south side of the
+village, and reached a hill which promised safety for the day. It took
+us a long time and many halts had to be made. We disposed of our marrows
+by eating them raw, and decided that they were too heavy to be worth
+carrying any distance in future. Finally, we reached a snug spot in
+brushwood high up on the hill and made ourselves as comfortable as
+circumstances would allow.
+
+In the afternoon, I decided to go to the top of the hill to try to
+locate our exact position in the valley. After a steep climb I got a
+splendid view all round and discovered a convenient track for us to
+follow as soon as it grew dark. A town was clearly visible a few miles
+further on, and this I felt sure must be Duraghan, although the road
+leading to it did not correspond with what was shown on our map.
+However, we decided that it must be this place, as by our calculations
+we reckoned we must have come every bit of the distance. Our disgust may
+be imagined when on the following day we found the place was really
+Boiabad, a town 30 miles short of Duraghan.
+
+Just after getting back to our bivouac, it came on to pour, but luckily
+we managed to get a fire going and a stew made just in time. However,
+the result was that we started marching an hour later, soaked very
+nearly to the skin, and with no prospect of being able to get dry in the
+near future. We came close to the town, as it was getting dark, and
+after crossing a stream had some discussion as to which road to take.
+Finally, we selected a track which we thought must lead into the main
+valley, where we were certain the main road would run on our side of the
+river. As a matter of fact, it had crossed to the other side and we did
+not meet it till next day. We continued along this track till midnight,
+when we lay down for a little sleep; but it was too cold to be possible
+in our wet things and in an hour we were up and off again. A few miles
+further on, we found we were close to a village through which the track
+ran and, joyful sight, there were several corn stacks close by. These
+promised a warm shelter until dawn; but it was not to be. The usual
+village dog had already heard us and although we remained stock still he
+would not cease his frantic barking. One old peasant had already been
+roused up and came slowly towards us. Our only course was to go straight
+on; and we went right into the village, past several houses, through a
+cow pen, over a hedge and so on to the moor beyond. Just as we got clear
+some sportsmen let off a shot-gun. No pellets came near us and it was
+probably only meant as a warning to robbers!
+
+Luckily, we were not followed and got away over the hill, steering east.
+After some distance we rested again, until morning should show us our
+whereabouts. We were evidently some way from the river and a good height
+up. As it began to get light, we moved off towards the river, hoping to
+find a snug hiding-place near the water. No such luck was in store for
+us, for just as we reached a slope overlooking the river we saw a small
+village at our feet, and the village dogs saw us almost at the same
+moment. Wearily we retraced our steps uphill, and when out of range of
+the dogs held a council as to our future efforts. It was clear that
+while walking by night we were covering very little distance, and that
+at this rate the food we carried would be exhausted long before we
+reached the sea. We decided, therefore, that our only hope lay in
+bluffing the country people that we were Germans and buying food where
+we could. Accordingly, we made for the first house we could see, where a
+miserable peasant and two women were working. We explained that we were
+Germans surveying, and produced our maps and passport in support of this
+contention. They did not doubt us; but they had no food to sell and,
+indeed, looked as poor and wretched as people well could. However, they
+referred us to their master, who was the headman of the locality. We
+crossed a few fields and were then met by this gentleman, to whom we
+told the same story. He led us into his house and providing us with
+seats gave orders for food to be prepared. In the meanwhile, Sweet
+carried on a conversation to the best of his ability. It appeared that
+our host was one Ahmed Chaoush (sergeant) who had been fighting against
+us in Gallipoli but now had a year's sick leave. He took in our story,
+but asked some awkward questions, such as why we carried no revolvers?
+Sweet had to pretend not to understand and, luckily, Ahmed did not
+become suspicious. We gathered from him that the town we had passed in
+the night was Boiabad and that Duraghan was several hours' distance in
+front of us. This was a cruel blow, and only showed us how much slower
+we had been than we thought. In the meantime, the chaoush had produced
+some small pears which were soon disposed of. Finally, after much
+anxious speculation as to whether or no our host intended to give us a
+meal, real signs of preparation appeared for that eagerly expected
+event.
+
+A few minutes later a small circular table was produced and several
+dishes were brought in. These consisted of cucumber sliced up in milk,
+small wads of boiled flour in milk, yoghourt or curdled milk and
+chapatties--a feast such as we had hardly dared to hope for. Turkish
+fashion, we sat round, each armed with a wooden spoon and dipped in the
+same dish, emptying one after another. It is etiquette on such occasions
+to wait until the next man has taken a spoonful so that all may get the
+same number in the end, but I fear we were not always so scrupulous and
+ate as fast as our usual habits would allow. When the table and dishes
+had been cleared away, Ahmed was given a little English tobacco and told
+it was the best German variety. Soon after we bid him a grateful
+farewell, and, although he was unwilling to take anything, succeeded in
+getting him to accept some money. We felt that to accept his
+hospitality and humbug him without any payment would scarcely be playing
+the game. He directed us towards our road, for which we had to descend
+again to the main valley and cross the river. On the further side we
+were delayed by a large irrigation nullah. When across this we found a
+good many blackberries and some onions in a field. The latter we seized
+upon with avidity, as being the first we had met with. There was some
+doubt as to which of two roads we should take, but it was decided to
+pursue one which some women had pointed out as the right road to
+Duraghan. This led straight away from the river and began to climb
+steeply. After a couple of hours, we had ascended some distance and
+decided to bivouac till the afternoon. The sun was pretty hot, but we
+were now high up and on top of a small hill from which the surrounding
+ranges could be clearly seen. It was evident that we had not come in the
+direction we had intended, but, on the other hand, we were now heading
+direct for the sea. After some discussion and poring over the map, we
+decided that our only real chance of reaching the sea lay in making a
+bee-line across country as nearly as possible in a north-easterly
+direction, buying food where we could and walking by day. If we had
+gone on we should not only have had to skirt Duraghan by night, or make
+a big detour by day, but the distance down to the sea would have been
+very much greater. In addition, it would have been much hotter for
+walking, with the extra hardship of mosquitoes at night.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+REACHING THE COAST
+
+
+We made it to be 30 miles in a straight line to the sea from the spot
+where we now lay and hoped to do the distance in three days. After the
+chaoush's hospitality at breakfast we scarcely felt inclined for another
+meal till the afternoon, when we made tea, and then packed up, intending
+to follow up a track beside a stream which flowed down from the range we
+had now determined to cross. Descending our hill, we came to a small
+village, and thought it would be just as well to see if we could
+purchase any provisions before going further. We asked some children for
+eggs, whereupon a Turkish matron of an unusually agreeable type came out
+and after a little parleying brought us quite a royal supper. This
+consisted mainly of an excellent tomato stew, chapatties, yoghourt and
+fruit. Taking into account what we had accumulated from Ahmed Chaoush,
+we had now got quite a good stock of chapatties. The amusement afforded
+by bluffing these good people had considerably raised our spirits, but
+all at once the good dame serving us staggered us completely by saying
+casually she had seen us in Kastamuni. We assured her it must have been
+other people, as we had no connection with Kastamuni and were real
+Germans from Angora.
+
+Just before leaving a man appeared who eyed us very suspiciously, and we
+were glad to get away without waiting to make his acquaintance. We had
+hardly gone a mile before an old man ran to meet us with his cap full of
+apples. We seemed almost to be entering on a triumphal progress and were
+tremendously amused. Several houses and a large village were passed
+without event, but a little further on we found several men with mules
+resting a short distance from the road. They called to us, and probably
+wanted to continue their journey in our company, but it was sailing
+nearer the wind than we cared for and, pretending we had to go on at
+once, we did not stop to hear anything more from them. Just before dark
+we passed through a very picturesque gorge, where the stream ran through
+a deep narrow gateway between two enormous masses of rock, and beyond
+this found a nook to sleep in for the night where we should be protected
+from the wind. This had been a truly great day, and its success seemed
+to confirm the wisdom of our new policy.
+
+Early the following morning, we were once more pursuing our path, which
+now became fainter and steeper as it rose towards the rocky ridge
+towering above us. Towards eleven o'clock, we reached some poor houses
+not far below the crest. Hoping to be able to purchase food, we stopped
+and made inquiries, but all the chief people seemed to be away at some
+market and there was nothing to be had. We continued on our way and
+after another hour's tramp came to a cattle trough by the side of the
+path. As there was water flowing here, we decided to halt till the
+afternoon, and found a snug spot a few yards up the hill. In the
+afternoon, after washing and shaving, we were nearly discovered by a man
+who appeared to be a gendarme. He came riding down the path and stopped
+to water his horse at the trough, but passed on without noticing
+anything. Soon afterwards we were again marching, still upwards towards
+the crest of the mountain ridge. We must have been now over 4,000 feet
+up, and hoped when we reached the top we should actually see the sea.
+An hour's trek took us to a poor village standing very high and,
+probably, in winter almost always in the clouds. An ill-clad woman
+informed us that she was a Greek who had only just arrived from
+Kastamuni. She seemed to have a pretty clear notion as to what we really
+were, but said nothing and, eventually, got us yoghourt and some
+chapatties. Our direction was now about north-east and we were making
+for Tel Kelik, a small place marked on the map, a little on the northern
+side of the watershed. Most of the peasants seemed never to have heard
+of it, and we had some difficulty in getting on to a path leading in the
+right direction. As it grew dusk, we found ourselves in a second village
+at almost the same elevation; there was no one about, but eventually a
+man turned up who said he was on his way home to another village. The
+village women in particular were most suspicious, declaring that there
+was no food anywhere; and it was not until some little while later, when
+the colour of our money had been clearly shown, that anything was
+forthcoming. We had intended to spend the night in a village hut if
+possible, as the only alternative was sleeping in the mist, which at
+4,000 feet was a cold and dreary prospect. However, after some
+parleying, we were led to what proved to be the travellers' rest hut.
+Our story was absorbed with due interest, a large fire lighted and some
+food brought in. We lay down on mats on the floor, rejoicing in the
+warmth and, if undisturbed by smaller visitors, felt we should have a
+really good night's rest. Several village worthies looked in during the
+evening to see the Almans (Germans) and we hope were not disappointed. A
+young soldier just returned on leave from Constantinople helped to
+procure some butter and syrup for us. The latter is a poor substitute
+for treacle and seems to be made from raisins. This reception in a
+travellers' rest hut was the limit reached by our bluff; it gave us much
+satisfaction to think how annoyed our Turkish friends in Kastamuni would
+be to know of our being entertained in such a manner.
+
+We had a splendid night, although lying on the floor, and in the morning
+obtained a little more food and some butter through our soldier friend.
+After a hasty meal we hurried off with our first acquaintance of the
+previous night as guide to put us on the right road. We were soon at the
+highest point of the range, although as yet the sea was not in view. A
+little further on, after having bought a large knife from our friend,
+we bade him good-bye with many expressions of gratitude. Tel Kelik was
+now quite close, and it was fortunate that we were not compelled to
+march through it, since we found later that there was a Turkish
+detachment stationed in the village. Leaving the Tel Kelik valley, we
+climbed the hill on our side and an hour later--at 9.30--were delighted
+at finding the sea stretching out before us in the sunshine. It looked
+about fifteen miles off, but the mere sight seemed to raise our spirits
+marvellously, and we were, perhaps, almost as elated as Xenophon's men
+when the same sea greeted their gaze at Trebizond. We were now in a
+copse and decided to halt till evening. To celebrate the occasion, we
+made a late breakfast of buttered eggs, the eggs having been bought at a
+cottage we had passed during the morning. The next work in front of us
+was to make something of the coarse flour which we had procured two days
+previously from the Greek woman. Sweet got to work and, using some of
+the butter and our last tin of condensed milk, turned out a very fine
+dough. Baking was the chief difficulty and, after trying to make an
+oven, in the end we had to be content with making small chapatties on
+our diminutive frying-pan turned upside down and on the lid of a
+canteen. The results were very satisfactory, although consisting largely
+of fragments.
+
+At four o'clock in the afternoon, we set off again and by dark had gone
+a good distance, and, after finding a sheltered spot for the night,
+collected a quantity of dead bracken to make ourselves as comfortable as
+possible.
+
+We were off again early next morning, and had a steep scramble down
+through a wood, and eventually, to a stream at the bottom of a deep
+valley. Here there were a number of blackberries which we took advantage
+of, and then climbed the further side, coming out at last on the top and
+finding nothing now lay between ourselves and the beach, which must have
+been only three miles away at the nearest point. A moment later a
+sailing boat was seen close in to the shore and two or three others soon
+after. We were overjoyed at this, as it meant that boats were still
+being used along the coast and that there was no truth in all the
+stories we had heard in Kastamuni to the effect that no boats were now
+plying. There was a small wooded hill projecting into the sea a little
+west of where we now were, and from its summit there would be a good
+view of the coast in each direction; on the other hand we knew we could
+not be far from the town of Jerse, and going west meant getting still
+nearer to it. Also, there were several farms and open country between us
+and the hill, and we were now very anxious not to be seen at all if we
+could help it. In the end, we decided to stay where we were for the day
+and go straight down to the shore in front of us late in the afternoon.
+The wood we were in was very thick and, try as we might, no good spot
+for a halt could be found which would also give us a clear outlook on to
+the coast and any boats sailing along it. We had to be content to do
+without further observation of the sailing boats, and bivouacked amongst
+the trees. Tea was made and a frugal meal of biscuits followed; our
+cocoa was now all exhausted, and greatly did we wish we had brought more
+of it in the place of some other things.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+RECAPTURED
+
+
+In the afternoon, we sewed together the two halves of the sail and cut a
+handle for our axe head so as to be as ready as possible in the event of
+discovering a boat. After making a stew from some beans we had gathered
+in a field on the hill that morning, we packed up and set off, full of
+hope and excitement. The question of going across to the wooded hill
+arose again when we got clear of the wood, but it was thrown out, and,
+bitterly did we regret it next day. Turning down to the shore, we
+crossed the road and, eventually, reached the beach just as it was
+getting dark. There were one or two small houses just on our right above
+the shingle, and we were reconnoitring carefully when a big rowing boat
+was seen coming along close to the beach, rowed by some eight men. It
+went a quarter of a mile further along, and the boat was then pulled up
+by the men and others who appeared from the houses. It was too dark to
+see what they were, but for some unknown reason we did not suspect that
+they were men of a guard at this place, or connect the houses with a
+place shown on one of our maps as being somewhere near here. We debated
+whether to go along the coast when it was quite dark and reconnoitre, or
+whether to wait for dawn. In any case, it seemed hopeless to think we
+could push off the boat which had just been pulled up: it was far too
+heavy and they had brought it up a long way. Finally, we decided to wait
+till dawn and then go along and see what we could find.
+
+As soon as it began to get light next morning, August 23rd, we were up;
+our excitement was increased by seeing a small boat moored a little way
+from the beach. This had mast and sail and was just the size of boat we
+were hoping for. We crept quietly down to a track along the shingle.
+Sweet was in front and reported seeing a peasant near the first house.
+We walked quickly on finding that there were rather more tumble-down
+houses than we had expected. However, it was too early for people to be
+about and there seemed no reason to suspect danger. We were hurrying on
+towards the boat we had seen, when we passed the end of a tumble-down
+boat-house and, to our dismay, found a Turkish sentry standing just
+inside. He stopped Sweet, while we three hurried on a little further.
+Sweet told him we were Germans bound for Samsun, the next port along the
+coast. However, the old man insisted on telling his chaoush or sergeant.
+Meanwhile Sweet had rejoined us, but there was no chance of getting
+away, as by this time three or four others of the guard had turned out.
+The sergeant had us brought back to the guard-house, where the next
+scene of the pantomime began. Sweet, as had been previously arranged,
+was to play the part of a German officer, while we three were orderlies.
+Accordingly, we carried his pack for him, jumped up and down and saluted
+and, generally, behaved in a manner calculated to show our subservience.
+Meanwhile, the chaoush who was in charge of the guard at this place--a
+village called Kusafet--was evidently not at all sure of his ground, and
+suggested we should go with him to Jerse. We replied we were going in
+the opposite direction, and wanted a boat with which to reach Samsun.
+The boat which had been moored off the beach had now been brought to
+shore and was landing some stores for the guard. We spoke to the skipper
+of this boat and, finding he came from Trebizond and knew a little
+English, hoped he would be amenable to helping us. Our idea was that
+having got on board for Samsun we could persuade him for a consideration
+to take us on to Trebizond, which was in Russian hands.
+
+He went upstairs to confer with the chaoush, but whether he gave us away
+or not we were never quite sure. He came down advising us to go to Jerse
+and see the commandant there. This man, he assured us, knew no English
+or German, and was very ignorant and would believe our story. The
+chaoush wanted to make us march to Jerse, but we refused and,
+eventually, set off in the boat under the escort of the chaoush and two
+other armed soldiers. Before leaving we had obtained some chapatties,
+and a little raw fish which was better eating than we had expected. On
+the way we suggested to the skipper that with the help of the crew we
+could easily overpower the guard and then set sail east; but he would
+not agree, and with the probability of the crew of five joining the
+guard we should have stood no chance at all. Hugging the coast, we
+reached Jerse in two hours, finding a small Turkish town built on a
+slight promontory. On the way, we passed the wooded hill we had talked
+about so often the day before. We should have been quite safe on this
+hill and, what was more, should have seen two or three boats in which
+we could probably have got away without much trouble. On reaching Jerse
+we found ourselves moored beside a small patrol boat of the Turkish
+navy, one of the crew of which said openly we were English. However,
+Sweet had gone ashore with the chaoush, and we were left hoping for the
+best, but fearing the game was up. Half an hour later we were summoned
+to join Sweet, and were conducted with him to a police station. Here Tip
+was made to speak on the 'phone to a German officer at Sinope. He could
+think of nothing to say but "Sprechen sie Deutsch," to which the Teuton
+eagerly responded at the other end. After shouting this down the 'phone
+several times Tip threw down the receiver, declaring it was out of
+order! Another man coming into the station declared he had seen two of
+us at Kastamuni. We were then taken to the commandant of the town and
+agreed it was useless to try to bluff any longer, since they believed us
+to be English spies and it was only a matter of getting hold of any
+German for our whole story to fall to the ground. We, therefore,
+admitted that we had escaped from Kastamuni, saying we had been so long
+prisoners that we wanted to get home. The commandant was one of the
+best types of Turkish officer it had been our fortune to meet and was
+most polite. We were searched, and our maps and compasses and diaries
+taken, except from K., who managed to smuggle his map through. My
+original compass, not being recognized as such, was not taken.
+
+Sweet told us that on first landing he had seen the commandant of the
+local _gendarmerie_, whom he had no difficulty in bluffing, as the
+skipper had foretold. Sweet told him we were on our way to the Caucasus
+to help in preparing a coming offensive for the Turks. He took all this
+in and Sweet was congratulating himself that our troubles were over.
+After giving Sweet coffee he said, no doubt, we would now like to be
+going on our way to Samsun. Sweet agreed, and they were just coming back
+to rejoin us when the Yuzbashi mentioned that there was a colonel who
+was commandant of the town and that he would probably like to see Sweet
+before he left. The fat was then in the fire. Sweet proffered our
+passport, but the colonel was suspicious and a Turkish naval officer
+whom he called in confirmed his ideas that we were British. The colonel
+told us later that there were two mistakes in our passport, which
+otherwise he evidently thought was quite good. He had our names and had
+been warned of our escape some two or three days after we had left
+Kastamuni.
+
+The yuzbashi, finding how thoroughly he had been bluffed, was now
+equally frantic in his wrath. We were said to be going off that day to
+Sinope, and he was already preparing to handcuff us together in pairs.
+Luckily, the colonel turned up in time to prevent this. Most of our
+money was now taken and a receipt given to us for it. A little later we
+were told we were not going that day and were given a better room in the
+police station. The chaoush was very pleased with himself and told us he
+was going to accompany us to Kastamuni. He, also, it appeared, had been
+warned of our escape and, having passed through Kastamuni recently,
+probably suspected us more quickly than he would otherwise have done.
+The colonel came in to see us, and endeavoured to find out as much as he
+could from us as to which way we had come and how we had got food, but
+we told him very little. We got some food sent in and finally lay down
+on the floor for the night. Tip was now suffering again from his
+previous complaint, and we insisted that a doctor should be brought.
+However, no one was forthcoming. Next morning we were allowed to go
+into the bazaar to buy a few things needful, and on our return were told
+to get ready to march at once. A small donkey was brought up and on this
+we loaded our kit.
+
+Tip was still feeling very poorly and had a bad time on the march. After
+some eight miles, mostly along by the sea, we reached some Turkish
+barracks which had evidently been only recently put up. They were wooden
+buildings, but, fortunately, cleaner than might have been expected. We
+were put into a small corner room in the officers' quarters and were
+much amused to find that no less than three sentries were posted to
+guard us; one outside the door, and one outside each window.
+
+The officers consisted of a fat and surly yuzbashi and an Arab
+lieutenant, a huge man who was most genial and friendly. He told us his
+home was near Mosul, but he refused to believe that the British were in
+Bagdad and evidently thought we were trying to bluff him, the ignorance
+pervading all classes in Turkey as to what is happening in the outside
+world being colossal.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+RESCUED
+
+
+We had several visits from the Arab officers, and they very kindly gave
+us a share of their food, which consisted chiefly of a vegetable stew.
+The following morning we were given a bread ration for five days and
+told to get ready at once. Tip was not fit to move, but they would not
+listen to us and dragged him out. We found a small pony had been
+brought, so Tip mounted this and we set off with a guard of a sergeant
+and eight privates; our former friend, the chaoush from Kusafet, was not
+coming with us after all and in his place we had a truculent
+quick-tempered fellow who looked as if he would be anything but an
+agreeable companion on the march. The men were evidently in the best of
+spirits, a visit to Kastamuni being a great event for them. In addition,
+they carried a good deal of tobacco, which they doubtless expected to
+sell again at a large profit on arrival. A great deal of tobacco is
+grown in the coast districts, more particularly near Samsun. We set off
+at a very easy pace and after passing the German wireless station soon
+had a halt. The guard had two donkeys which carried their kit, but the
+chaoush would not hear of us putting our packs on them as well. After
+another halt in a village, we reached a caravanserai early in the
+afternoon, where the guard prepared their food, the man who owned the
+donkeys acting as cook to the chaoush. This fellow had not even the
+disreputable uniform which the average Turkish soldier possesses, but
+was clothed in thin black stuff. His efforts produced boiled rice over
+which a little melted butter was poured. This was taken to a raised
+corner where he and the chaoush proceeded to shovel it into their mouths
+from the same bowl, etiquette prescribing that the two parties should
+take spoonfuls strictly in turn. An hour later we were off again, and
+began to ascend the lower slopes of the mountains we had crossed a few
+days previously. Now, however, we were on the so-called main road. It
+was one of the worst roads it had been our lot ever to have seen, and we
+were truly thankful we were not travelling in carts. Long stretches were
+strewn with blocks of stone, which had been, apparently, left there
+promiscuously by some contractor who had not finished his job, like so
+many others in this country. An hour or two later, after ascending some
+little distance, we stopped for the chaoush to get his pony shod. This
+animal he had commandeered at a village we had passed through, and now
+fancied himself to no small extent as a mounted man. After a long wait
+the shoeing was at last accomplished and we set off once more. To our
+delight the chaoush had also procured a second pony, and on this we were
+allowed to load our packs. About eight o'clock we reached a small
+village, where we were to spend the night; an empty log hut was found
+and a fire made in the large open hearth. We were given one side of the
+chief room while most of the guard slept on the rest of the floor. With
+some eggs we had bought we made a very good supper and, thanks to the
+fire, were as comfortable as the circumstances would allow. We were now
+high up and it would have been very cold to bivouac in the open, as we
+must have been surrounded by clouds during the night. Before going off
+to sleep we considered the chances of escape. There would be little
+chance after another day or two when we had got further from the sea and
+were halting in larger villages, so that the present night seemed the
+only practical time, should opportunity offer. However, we soon came to
+the conclusion that it was quite impossible, as not only was there a
+sentry in the narrow passage outside the door but one or two of the
+askars in our room were told to keep awake in turns. The only exit was
+the door, to reach which we should have to walk over several of our
+guard.
+
+First thing in the morning, August 27th, we were off again up the road.
+It was a glorious day and nothing happened beyond the usual halts every
+hour or so. We discussed our escapade once more, again deciding we had
+had a good run for our money, but that we had not been cautious enough
+when we did reach the coast. We went over afresh the various routes
+possible and alterations in plans which we would have adopted with the
+experience now gained. It was about nine o'clock and we had been on the
+march fully two hours when suddenly with a cry of "Askar" shots rang out
+from the nearside of the road. For a moment we were too startled to know
+what to make of it. Then K. and I made a dive down the "khud" side, as
+the open road seemed anything but the best place to stay in. The first
+shot had bowled over the man in black who was riding a donkey in front.
+We had been told so much at Kastamuni about the bandits infesting the
+hills that we quite thought we might have fallen amongst a party of them
+and that to be taken and held to ransom would be a worse fate than
+returning for a few months to the civil prison at Kastamuni or Angora.
+
+On going a little way down the hill I saw a man whom I at first thought
+to be the chaoush, but as he beckoned to me saying "Venez, venez," I saw
+that this was one of the new arrivals. He wanted me to go off down the
+hill with him, but after descending a little way I explained there were
+other officers on the road and I must go back to them. In the meantime,
+he was very voluble and excited, but I could not gather who they were or
+what had brought them. On arriving back on the road I found K. and Tip;
+the fighting was now over, and three of the brigands were collecting the
+askars' rifles and ammunition. The guard had put up no show at all and
+the nine of them were all disarmed and standing like sheep within two
+minutes, thanks almost entirely to the efforts of the three now
+collecting their arms, since my friend had been too far down the bank to
+have done much firing himself. The question now was whether we were to
+go with these fellows. K. was all for going off at once, but Tip and I
+hesitated as to the position we should be in, if caught again by the
+Turks before getting away. Our new friends would, of course, have been
+shot as outlaws, and we should very likely have shared the same fate. We
+took them aside and at length made out that they were adherents of the
+old Turk party and had no use whatever for Enver and his Government.
+They said they had come specially to rescue us, and had a boat ready to
+put off for either Trebizond of Sevastopol in three or four days' time.
+After realizing this, a process which took some time, as our knowledge
+of the language was very sketchy, we decided to throw in our fortunes
+with our new friends, as it seemed a heaven-sent chance of getting out
+of the country and almost too good to be true. We had seen nothing of
+Sweet since the firing started and now began to shout for him and search
+on each side of the road. Our new friends set the old guard on to look
+for him, but not a sign of him could we see and no response came to our
+calls. After searching and shouting for an hour, we finally had to give
+it up, and leaving the guard in the road set off with our new
+acquaintances, whom we will now style the "akhardash"--or comrades--as
+that was the name they always used for themselves and their supporters.
+As far as we could see, Sweet must have dashed away when the first shots
+rang out, thinking no doubt that this was a splendid opportunity of
+getting free again. It was very hard luck for him, especially as he had
+all along been one of the keenest and most energetic of the party. The
+old guard watched us go without emotion; they were apparently used to
+surprises of this sort. The chaoush remarked that we should now go to
+our homes, and we often wondered what happened to him when he got back
+to the barracks and reported.
+
+[Illustration: MAP (REDUCED) SHOWING ROUTE OF ESCAPE]
+
+He would be sure to say his party had been greatly outnumbered and were
+only disarmed after a prolonged resistance, but, nevertheless, he was
+probably reduced to a private. Besides the man in black who had been
+killed, two of the others had been wounded. Considering the rate at
+which the akhardash started firing, at a range of only twenty yards or
+so, the wonder is they did not hit many more; probably after inflicting
+a few casualties to start with they afterwards fired high on purpose.
+The guard, beyond firing one or two shots, seemed to have made no
+resistance at all. They were completely surprised and totally unready
+for such an occurrence. Tip had an unenviable experience. He was riding
+his pony when the shooting began and had our rucksacks festooned round
+his saddle and over his legs so that he could not dismount in a hurry
+and found himself in a helpless position in a small storm of bullets.
+Finally, he was dragged to the ground by the tallest of the akhardash,
+who proceeded to kiss him with much fervour! This man, whose name was
+Musa, became our great friend. He was a tall lithe fellow and was always
+ready to do everything he possibly could for our comfort during the
+following weeks. The leader, whom we always rather suspected of having
+played the part of the Duke of Plaza Toro in the actual scrap, was one
+Bihgar Bey, a most evil-looking gentleman. In fact none of the four at
+the time we first saw them presented an appearance likely to inspire any
+confidence, but resembled more the types one sees portrayed as those of
+the greatest criminals. Bihgar Bey, we learnt later, was one of a dozen
+implicated in the murder of Mahomed Shevket Pasha[3] some years
+previously, but as he alone when caught was not in possession of arms
+his sentence was only one of transportation, while all the others were
+put to death. The other two were Keor, an old Armenian who looked as if
+he had led a very hard life, and Kiarmil, a little man who had been a
+sergeant-major in the Turkish forces during the late Balkan war. Their
+looks, however, entirely belied them, as will be seen from our
+subsequent experiences, when on all occasions they went out of their way
+to lessen the hardships of our life in the woods. During the following
+days we found that they had been able to pay a certain sum yearly to
+avoid military service up to a few months previously, when all such
+privileges had been cancelled. They had then been forced either to serve
+or become outlaws, and had chosen the latter alternative. After living
+in the woods supported by more law-abiding friends, of whom they seemed
+to have a great number dotted about the country, they had decided to
+leave for Russia, and made arrangements with a man in Sinope to embark
+in his boat when all their party had been gathered and all arrangements
+completed. In the meantime, a gendarme at Sinope, who was also of their
+political views, had given them news of our recapture and march back to
+Kastamuni. They determined thereupon to effect our rescue, and the
+evening before had made a forced march of over twenty miles. At first,
+we could not understand why they had taken on such an enterprise, seeing
+that it could only hinder their own plans for getting away, and would
+probably make it much more difficult for them to leave at all, as the
+Turkish authorities would be sure to take a good deal of trouble to
+prevent our getting out of the country; but they seemed to have a
+profound contempt for any number of gendarmes and no doubt considered we
+should form a good introduction for them to Russia. Whatever their
+reasons, it was a very plucky act for four of them to take on a guard of
+nine, although at the time when the man in black was bowled over it
+seemed a horribly cold-blooded business.
+
+[3] Grand Vizier, 1913.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+IN HIDING WITH THE TURKS
+
+
+Throughout the following weeks our new friends did all they could to
+make us as comfortable as circumstances would permit, and we can never
+be sufficiently grateful to them for thus enabling us to leave captivity
+and reach home. They would never listen to any offers of payment, saying
+they did not wish to be taken for men who had rescued us for money.
+
+Going back to the morning of our first acquaintance, we left the guard
+standing in the road while we, with all their ammunition and four of
+their rifles, retraced our steps along the road towards the sea and then
+branched off down a side track, finding a secure hiding-place in a thick
+wood about a mile further on. We thought it might be as well to impress
+the guard with the idea that we had been taken off by the "brigands"
+against our will, and therefore got them to tie our hands together and
+behaved as if we did not want to go with them at all. When out of
+sight, we undid the cords and marched on again as really free men,
+Bihgar Bey continually cheering us by saying, "Allons, enfants de la
+patrie," which, considering his position as an outlaw, was distinctly
+humorous. It was wonderful the inspiring effect the change from
+captivity had upon Tip, who had been so seedy during the last few days;
+now he began to recover rapidly and succeeded in marching all the
+following night without any ill effects.
+
+We had taken Sweet's kit with us, thinking we might meet him and that in
+any case it would be of no use to leave it with the guard. After sorting
+it out, we took one or two articles each and made our rescuers some
+small presents from the remainder. Bihgar and Kiarmil went off to fill
+our water-bottles and returned a little while later, after announcing
+their approach by clapping their hands. This we found was the method
+always adopted by the akhardash when meeting each other in woods or by
+night.
+
+It was arranged that two of them would accompany us down at nightfall to
+a secure hiding-place, while the other two were to go in the opposite
+direction to meet friends from Boiabad who were also joining the party
+and, as far as we could make out, were bringing a good deal of money
+with them. In the end, we set off about half-past seven under the
+guidance of Keor, the old Armenian, while the other three set off again
+towards Boiabad. They had told us that we should reach our hiding-place
+in three hours, Bihgar Bey making our mouths water by describing it as a
+place of milk and honey, where we would be provided with meat, butter,
+eggs and cheese, all of which since we left Kastamuni had seemed the
+greatest luxuries.
+
+Keor started off at a trot down a path through the wood. He was carrying
+his own rifle and one of our late guard's weapons, as well as four
+bandoliers full of ammunition and a bag on his back. We three each
+carried a rifle, but hoped there would be no more cold-blooded shooting
+of the type that had effected our rescue. Keor's pace must have been
+about five miles an hour, and we soon had to request him to go slower,
+as I had a dicky knee which would be likely to give trouble going
+downhill at a trot over a bad path with daylight almost gone. Our packs
+with some of Sweet's kit were now a good weight, so that with a rifle in
+addition we were well loaded. After being told that we should reach our
+goal in three hours we felt fairly confident of attaining it in five,
+especially as we kept up a good pace and the recognized halts were not
+observed. Keor several times missed his way, but always found it in the
+end. After a couple of hours we reached a river and wended our weary way
+down its bed, first on one side, then crossing to the other side and
+then back again. There was no path and we floundered along amongst the
+boulders in the darkness. Whenever we halted, which was not often, Keor
+always said it was now only one hour's march further.
+
+About 3 a.m. we were going along a rough track beside the river bed when
+suddenly my bad knee gave way and I took a complete toss, rifle and pack
+going all over the place. There was nothing for it but to go on, so
+tying up the knee with a puttee, I hobbled on--the others nobly helping
+me by carrying my rifle. We were now all pretty well done and signs of
+dawn began to show in the east. Keor was very anxious to get in, saying
+there would be a great many gendarmes hereabouts the following day. At
+length we left the river, climbed a small rise, and passed close to some
+cottages, where the usual dogs soon started a chorus. This led to one or
+two shots being fired, probably with the idea of scaring off robbers,
+but, apparently, we were not actually seen. Finally, we dragged
+ourselves up a steep track, and got to ground in a thick copse. We were
+worn out; it was now a quarter-past five and we had done nine and a
+quarter hours instead of the three we had been promised. Still, we were
+free--and nothing else mattered. We put on what extra garments we had
+and were very soon asleep.
+
+A few hours later Keor disappeared and returned shortly afterwards with
+what seemed to us a splendid breakfast: fried eggs, chapatties and
+yoghourt. Apparently, we were close to the house of an akhardash, from
+whom all this had been procured. Although some children came near us
+during the day, we were not discovered, and remained quietly where we
+were till nightfall. Then we tramped off once more, but only to halt at
+a very short distance further on under some trees near a house, which
+was probably the one our breakfast had come from. Here we were met by a
+boy of fifteen, by name Aziz, who came to us through the trees with a
+loaded rifle slung over his shoulder. Our friends always carried their
+rifles with a round in the chamber, but with the bolt not pushed home.
+We were continually expecting some accident to happen from this
+practice, but luckily nothing did.
+
+Of the rifles belonging to our four rescuers, two were short
+Lee-Enfields which had been captured on the Gallipoli peninsula, and had
+found their way to the bazaar in Constantinople, where they had been
+retailed for LT.10 or nine pounds sterling: now, however, they assured
+us that the price had gone up to LT.20. Musa had a Turkish Mauser, made
+in Germany, while Keor possessed a Russian rifle. Aziz met us with an
+old Greek weapon, but much to his delight was given one of the rifles
+which had belonged to our guard. He was a very bright boy, and intensely
+excited and jubilant over our rescue and the discomfiture of the guard.
+In every case, the muzzle piece was removed so as to lighten the weapon,
+a bayonet, apparently, not being considered worth carrying when fighting
+gendarmes in the mountains. In addition to their rifles, some of our
+friends carried Caucasian daggers. These are straight, with a very fine
+sharp point and double-edged blade about fifteen inches long. They were
+used for cutting brushwood, rigging up shelters in the woods, killing
+sheep, or chopping up meat, as required. Whenever we halted, Keor used
+to spend much loving care over his bandoliers of ammunition, seeing
+that each round was clean and not too loose in its leather loop.
+
+After a few minutes under the trees a woman brought us a frugal supper,
+after which we set off accompanied by Aziz to find a hiding-place for
+the following day. A short distance brought us to a small Turkish house
+where a good deal of conversation took place between Keor, Aziz and the
+owner. Finally, we were taken into a maize-field and camped under a tree
+in the centre. The maize was seven or eight feet in height, so that we
+were well concealed. Our host brought us some bedding, consisting of a
+couple of old mattresses and quilts. During the following days we had a
+pretty thorough experience of the delights of such bedding, and came to
+the conclusion in the end that we should have been happier without any.
+However, in the present case it was not so bad and we had a
+comparatively undisturbed night. In the morning food was brought us by
+our host, which consisted mostly of a vegetable stew and coarse bread.
+The day was uneventful.
+
+We spent another night in this field and moved on once more the
+following evening. Keor declared it would only take us half an hour and
+I trusted it might not be far, as my knee was not much better yet. It
+amused us to think what a trio of crocks we seemed to be. Tip had been
+ill off and on most of the time since we left Kastamuni. K. had been
+very unwell that day and suffered a good deal on account of his short
+sight; and I was dead lame. A few minutes after starting we met another
+of the akhardash, a very good fellow named Kasim, and conversed with him
+for a few minutes in the shade of a corn stack before proceeding.
+
+It was a fine moonlight night, and we again passed the German wireless
+station, which was now below us and between us and the sea. In not more
+than an hour, we got close to the place appointed and after a long wait
+were conducted to a spot which seemed very secure, as it was in the
+centre of a thick copse with no houses near. Another youth turned up
+here and, apparently, was the son of our new host. For the next three
+days we stayed here, this boy bringing us food twice a day and telling
+Keor all the local news. It was now we heard that Sweet had been retaken
+or had had to give himself up and was being marched back to Kastamuni.
+Later when Bihgar Bey and the others rejoined us they declared that
+Sweet had gone back with an escort of no less than 60 gendarmes. The
+idea of such a number being necessary tickled them immensely and they
+evidently considered it a great compliment to the disturbance they had
+caused, though they were genuinely sorry for Sweet and would have made
+an effort to rescue him had it been possible.
+
+Our menu was rendered more attractive now by our being able to get a
+little butter and some fruit. As we had to keep still all day, there was
+little to do except speculate as to the composition of the next meal,
+and with having only two meals a day there was a considerable interval
+between these events. K. spent some time in making up his diary and
+checking dates. Our friends could never make out what he was writing
+about, and would say, "Here there are trees and mountains but whatever
+can a man find to write about?" Indeed, they never could make K. out
+very well. Tip was far the most popular; for one thing the fact that he
+was an aviator roused their imagination, and in addition his good humour
+under all circumstances made him a great favourite. They always
+addressed him as Kaptan, but only called K. and me, by our surnames. The
+want of tobacco in the early days had not affected K. and me, as we did
+not smoke, but Tip had had to go very short; now, however, the
+akhardash seemed to have inexhaustible supplies and were always ready
+to roll cigarettes for Tip--an art which he never succeeded in
+mastering. One day Keor informed us that some of the akhardash including
+Aziz had raided the German wireless station the night before, killing
+all the Germans and taking a lot of money. This was absolutely untrue,
+but he seemed to believe it and had evidently been told the story by the
+boy bringing our food.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+CONTINUED DELAYS
+
+
+On the afternoon of September 2nd, the third day in this wood, Bihgar
+Bey and Musa arrived, and announced that the friends from Boiabad had
+also come and that we should move on towards the sea. One of the
+new-comers had arrived with them at our lair, this being a stout fellow
+whom we always referred to as the Fat Boy: he was in fact the only pure
+Turk amongst them, the others all being of Circassian extraction. As it
+grew dark we moved off picking up some others of the akhardash shortly
+afterwards, and took a line which would bring us towards the coast while
+at the same time approaching Sinope. After some hours, it became evident
+that they were not very sure of the way, with the result that in the
+early hours of the morning they decided to stop where they were and
+reach the appointed place the following evening. At dawn a countryman
+stumbled upon a sentry guarding a path near which we lay. He was
+thoroughly scared and was allowed to go, after having evidently sworn
+never to tell of anything he had seen.
+
+As morning dawned, rain came on and we moved under some bigger trees,
+where Keor very soon had a shelter rigged up, cutting down ash saplings
+with a dagger and using our sail as a cover. It was not a very efficient
+protection, but better than nothing and luckily on this occasion the
+rain did not last long. Next evening, under the guidance of a new
+comrade, we were conducted a little way further, finally halting in a
+maize-field until such time as some unwelcome guests had left our new
+host. This was an old Greek as poor as he was dirty, but he had
+evidently agreed to hide us until the boat was ready and we were much
+indebted to him. Finally, the Turkish visitors left the old man and he
+came to meet us. The first thing he did was to go off with one of the
+akhardash and procure a sheep for us. We had not tasted any meat for
+about ten days, and looked with great interest at the fine animal now
+procured. The old man then brought us bedding, and we are not likely
+ever to forget it. We remained in his care for nearly a week, and every
+day seemed to increase the interest which these mattresses took in us.
+At daylight, the old man cleared a space for us in a neighbouring
+thicket, and we moved in there. All the others except Bihgar departed,
+saying they were going to prepare food for the voyage. Left alone with
+Bihgar the time hung somewhat heavily. He looked after us like a father
+and by our calling him this he was highly delighted. He played picquet
+with Tip, and did his best to learn a little English. The old Greek sent
+a messenger into Sinope for us, and we thus got hold of a few small note
+books and some playing cards, which helped to pass the time.
+
+[Illustration: BIHGAR BEY]
+
+After a few days in our first clearing, we moved to another, a short
+distance off, this being considered rather safer. There were a good many
+houses round about and people passed by a path running within 50 yards
+of where we lay, so that we had to keep very quiet. After three or four
+days here we began to get a little impatient, Bihgar Bey being somewhat
+indefinite; but at last one night, after going off at dark to meet some
+of the others, he came back and woke us up at midnight and told us to
+hurry up, as we were off. We hoped we might get right down to the coast
+and find the boat ready, but this was not to be. After a second meeting
+under the tree in the maize-field and a farewell to the old Greek, we
+set off down a lane and past some houses where the inevitable dog was
+soon aroused. However, no one came out and we got out to a field near
+the main road, where, after a wait of an hour, we were met by Kiarmil,
+whom we had not seen since the first day. At this point, the others had
+also met us and had with them a pony laden with bread and a little
+cheese, which were to be our rations on the voyage. The party now
+consisted of twelve of the akhardash and a boy with the pony, the latter
+not intending to leave the country with us.
+
+We learnt that they had had a long fight with the gendarmes the day
+before, one being killed on each side. Apparently, the gendarmes had
+rounded them up in a village where they were preparing the food which
+they had now brought. There were, they said, 80 gendarmes, whereas they
+had only eight! Anyhow, our guide of a few nights before, a swarthy,
+powerful looking man, had been killed, but in the end they had succeeded
+in getting away from the gendarmes or driving them off. The story,
+naturally, lost nothing in the telling and we never quite knew what to
+believe. At first, from their accounts, it sounded as if they had
+deliberately invited a scrap, and it was some time before we found out
+that they had been almost surrounded. They also brought the news that
+hundreds of gendarmes were being sent to Sinope from Kastamuni, but as
+there were never many at Kastamuni we were somewhat sceptical about this
+also. Crossing the main road, we found we were close to the sea, and a
+little further on entered a copse where we spent the rest of the night.
+At dawn we went still further in, and sentries were posted. Meanwhile,
+the pony boy had gone off on his steed to Sinope to interview the
+boatman, and we waited till the afternoon, hoping that we might hear the
+boat was coming to pick us up that night. Our hopes were dashed again
+when the boy returned with the news that the boat and its proprietor
+were not in Sinope, but had gone round the coast to the next port to the
+west.
+
+The akhardash decided it was too risky to stay where we were and,
+therefore, we moved again at nightfall. After following the main road a
+little way on towards Sinope we left it, climbing slowly and going
+farther away from the sea. After some hours they found that they had
+missed the way again, although we were close to our destination, which
+was the inevitable akhardash's house. Making across some fields and
+hedges, we gained a lane, but soon had to leave this, as carts were
+heard coming along. Luckily, Turkish carts make their presence known
+a long way off by their perpetual creaking, so that we were all
+safely under cover by the time they passed. A certain amount of
+misunderstanding now arose, Bihgar not seeing eye to eye with another of
+the akhardash who knew best our whereabouts, with the result that we
+nearly split up into two or more groups in the darkness.
+
+However, we eventually all got together again, and reached the house of
+our new host or rather the field surrounding it. He came to meet us and
+escorted us to a wood close by. Here we slept till dawn and then moved
+farther into the trees. This old man was evidently a more influential
+"comrade" than most of those we had met so far. His house was a good
+deal larger than the average and he was treated with great respect.
+Another more humble supporter also appeared, and between the two we were
+provided with food. Late in the day, the old man departed for Sinope,
+and our hopes again ran high that he would be successful in arranging
+for the boat. Disappointment was once more in store for us on his return
+about six o'clock. The leading three or four conferred apart with him,
+and it was not until afterwards that we were told that the Turks were so
+bent on preventing us leaving the country that they had had all boats
+pulled up, masts and sails taken out and guarded, and that no boat was
+allowed to put to sea from Sinope to eastwards of Kusafet, the place
+where we had been recaptured. The akhardash said that, this being the
+case, we must try elsewhere, and they proposed to march off towards
+Iyenjak, a little town about 30 miles westwards, where the restrictions
+imposed at Sinope would probably not be in force and where they hoped to
+get another boat. They said if this failed they would then go east
+towards Samsun, a distance of fully 100 miles across rough mountainous
+country.
+
+We were beginning to wonder if they ever would get afloat. On August
+27th, when they had rescued us, they declared everything would be ready
+in three or four days. It was now September and our early sailing seemed
+more unlikely than ever. In addition to this our boots were nearly worn
+out, and physically we were not in particularly good condition. It
+looked as if they would have a much better chance of getting off without
+us, so we decided to offer to go off on our own and leave them free. We
+explained that it was a hanging matter for them if caught, whereas it
+only meant a few months in prison for us. They realized this only too
+clearly, but would not hear of our leaving them for an instant, and
+declared they would get a boat, however much it might cost.
+
+Kiarmil, upon whose person all the wealth of the party had been
+concealed in various places when it was thought we were about to embark,
+now began to disgorge his treasure and divide it up again. Musa appeared
+to be by far the richest of the party and seemed to be quite a country
+gentleman. He told us he would lose his house, cattle and land worth
+thousands of pounds. These would all be confiscated by the Turkish
+authorities, but he confidently hoped with the next change of Government
+to return to the country and get it all back again with a little more
+besides. Some of the others were in a similar situation in a lesser
+degree. They had succeeded in changing most of their money into Russian
+notes which had somehow found their way into Sinope and Jerse, and these
+transactions had delayed their preparations a good deal.
+
+After a supper which included a little meat and was therefore noteworthy
+in itself, we set off again on the march, but found we had left behind
+one of our party who had had fever. At the start, we made good progress
+along a road, but then turned off to follow a river down the valley. To
+find the track was not always easy. Many fences had to be partially
+demolished to allow the pony to get through, and no effort was ever made
+to repair the damage or conceal our tracks. After crossing a good deal
+of cultivated land, we reached the river bed and began the type of march
+we knew so well, crossing continually from one side to the other,
+stumbling along over boulders and rocks. About three o'clock in the
+morning, we reached a thicket in a lonely part of the valley where the
+sides had narrowed considerably. They decided to halt here till the next
+night, much to our relief. Cross-country marching by night is never a
+very easy mode of progression, but when an attempt is made to use a
+stony river bed as a road it becomes a prolonged torture.
+
+No incident marked the following day, and just before dark we were off
+once more. As dawn was breaking we reached the neighbourhood of yet
+another akhardash's house and went into hiding in thick brushwood which
+was soaking with dew. Just as we had got settled down, Bihgar for some
+reason decided that we three would be safer elsewhere, and much to our
+disgust hustled us off to an equally wet spot in a thicket on the
+opposite side of the road. He was always prone to worry and fuss a great
+deal more than the others, and later on in the day, in a rash moment, I
+expostulated with him, going through a little pantomime to show how he
+had acted in the morning. The effect was startling and a great deal more
+than I had bargained for. He began by fervently kissing my hand,
+declaring he was our servant and that everything he did was for our
+benefit. I hastened to stop the flood of protest and affection which I
+had unwittingly let loose, but it was some time before he was calm
+again.
+
+That evening we moved on, having been fed during the day by the local
+akhardash. We were now under the command of the fellow we termed the Fat
+Boy, Bihgar having gone off with some of the others to interview another
+friend regarding a boat. This man never worried at all, and would shout
+to men on guard over the crops as if he were a countryman returning home
+late. The fires all over the countryside at night in this district were
+used for scaring wild pig from the maize and other crops. In nearly
+every field would be a small perch for a man, who would keep a blaze
+going beside him and make various noises to scare off the intruders.
+Most of them had old guns of some sort and frequently a shot would be
+heard. The subject of pig formed a perpetual joke; the akhardash, as
+Mussulmans, declaring it was not good to eat, whereas we always offered
+to show them how good it was if they would bring us one. Another source
+of never-ending merriment was the prophecy that Tip would be taken
+prisoner when flying in France and again be sent to Kastamuni.
+
+Towards midnight we reached a big wood and, under the guidance of a new
+supporter, found a sheltered spot beneath lofty trees. The character of
+the country had altered a good deal since we had reached the coast. Here
+the rainfall was evidently a great deal heavier than it was at Kastamuni
+and the climate milder, with the result that all sorts of trees abounded
+and the vegetation was much thicker. This was the first spot considered
+safe enough by our friends for a fire and they soon had a fine blaze
+going. We lay down in the warmth and were quickly asleep. Our comfort
+was short-lived, however, as it began to rain heavily. A small oil silk
+sheet which had belonged to Sweet kept me dry for a time, but it soon
+became necessary to move, as the fire had nearly gone out and another
+had been started further away. Tip evinced a wonderful power of being
+able to sleep when lying in a puddle and soaked through. The akhardash
+were experts at fire-lighting, under all circumstances, and skilfully
+arranged the logs to protect the inside of the blaze from the rain.
+
+In the afternoon we moved on under the guidance of two sturdy lads, one
+of whom with the aid of an axe cut a way for us through the brushwood
+and made a track up the steep hill, along which the pony struggled
+heroically. On reaching higher ground we found a path and followed this
+a little further to a water trough, near which we camped, another fire
+being lighted at once. Our guide of the night before turned out to be a
+Turkish soldier on leave, but he showed little surprise on finding out
+who we were. The other lads had also been in the Army and, as far as we
+could make out, had been sent to their homes on account of the shortage
+of rations in Constantinople. They bore us no ill will and evidently
+thought that the Gallipoli campaign showed them to be the better
+soldiers of the two. They knew nothing about our having taken Bagdad and
+were quite ignorant of all other war news. The following day was fine
+at intervals, generally just long enough to allow of our drying our
+clothes before it began again. Our diet had been limited to coarse
+Turkish bread, of a most indigestible and half-baked variety, with
+potatoes and meat which we cooked by toasting small pieces on long
+sticks; but now the bread ran out and for two days we lived almost
+entirely on potatoes. The erstwhile soldiers also brought us a number of
+small pears. For washing we had the trough, but while the rain continued
+and for some time after each shower a small stream flowed down beside
+our camp.
+
+The next event of interest was the arrival of a visitor who brought with
+him a sheep. We were told that this man had been employed in the
+_gendarmerie_, but was now also leaving for Russia and intended to sail
+in ten days' time. He suddenly wanted our party to postpone their
+departure, so that he might join us, but this was not agreed to. To show
+his good faith, he had brought the sheep as a present and no time was
+lost in turning it into mutton. A long pole was cut and supported
+horizontally on two Y pieces driven into the ground beside the fire. The
+sheep's carcase was scientifically balanced and tied to the pole and the
+roasting process then began, the pole being slowly turned in the
+supports. We made use of our canteens and anything else we could get
+hold of to catch the dripping: butter had been scarce and any substitute
+was greatly in demand. Our experience in this connection was that coarse
+indigestible bread became much less harmful when any butter could be had
+to eat with it.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+THREE DAYS ON THE BLACK SEA
+
+
+There had been a certain amount of going and coming amongst the
+akhardash during the days we spent in this wood, but on September 19th
+Bihgar Bey arrived and declared everything was arranged. A boat said to
+be quite new had been purchased for 400 liras. This sum had been paid in
+hard cash, gold and silver, a fact of more interest than might appear
+since at this time not a single coin of any description was to be seen
+in the bazaars in Turkey. Notes had been issued down to 1 piastre and
+below this postage stamps were used. We again offered to contribute a
+share to the cost of the boat, but they would not hear of it. Nearly all
+of them had some gold coins, English sovereigns being as numerous as
+Turkish lira pieces. The following day, September 20th, our gendarme
+friend again appeared, bringing another sheep, which was cooked without
+delay in the same manner as the first. We were to leave that evening at
+six o'clock, go down to the coast and embark the following evening. At
+last everything seemed to have been definitely arranged and our spirits
+rose accordingly.
+
+A dark night march followed over some bad going and as we got lower down
+we entered the inevitable river bed. This lasted for an hour only and we
+then climbed a hill and found ourselves in a small copse immediately
+above the sea.
+
+Since our recapture at the coast we reckoned we had covered about 150
+miles, while our trek from Kastamuni to the coast must have been about
+200 miles.
+
+In the morning the pony boy was sent along to interview the boat owner,
+and on his return we were told the boat was to come along at dark and we
+were to embark at eleven o'clock. The day passed uneventfully, and there
+was nothing to be done but to lie still and hope that no misfortune
+would upset the scheme at the last moment. On these occasions the
+akhardash posted one or more sentries round our hiding-place and great
+care was taken to make no noise. As it grew dark Bihgar told us to go to
+sleep and said he would awaken us when the boat came. No sign of the
+boat had been seen and they were evidently much worried. It looked as
+if even now something had gone wrong. The pony boy was despatched again,
+and returned hours later to say that the boat had left as arranged.
+
+Meanwhile, we had gone to sleep and did not wake until dawn. An awful
+presentiment seized us that another failure had occurred. However, as it
+grew light, the sentries who had not seen the boat the night before
+discovered it a quarter of a mile away across a stream with a fire lit
+on the beach above it. This had, apparently, been the signal, but for
+some reason had not been seen. No time was now lost in getting down to
+the boat. The pony boy galloped off, presumably to his home, and we
+trust never aroused the suspicions of the authorities. The sacks
+containing the bread for the voyage were carried down and put on board,
+and a kerosine tin and keg from the boat taken to the stream to provide
+the water supply. Meanwhile, others had been ballasting the boat with
+boulders from the beach. Just as the water was being brought back to the
+boat an old sentry emerged from a tumble-down house on the beach, which
+our friends had, apparently, thought to be deserted. He had scarcely
+taken in the situation before he was disarmed and tied up near the
+house. His Mauser rifle and ammunition were all taken from him, and in
+exchange he was left with an old Greek rifle, but without a round to put
+in it. The last of the party pushing off the boat leaped on board, and
+with thankful hearts we felt we really were off at last. Our vessel was
+the usual type of coastal fishing boat, with a single big sail. She was
+about twenty-four feet long and between two or three tons displacement,
+but, whereas we had been expecting a new boat, we now found a very old
+one with mast and rigging that looked anything but trustworthy, the only
+sign of any recent attention being a little fresh paint here and there.
+However, we had left Turkey and had a boat and that was all we wanted.
+The question of navigation and handling the boat we left to start with
+to the akhardash, of whom several said they were accustomed to sailing
+and knew all about it; but we relied on Tip's experience to help us
+along if our other friends failed.
+
+[Illustration: BOAT IN WHICH THE PARTY CROSSED THE BLACK SEA]
+
+The first thing that engaged our attention, when the boat had been
+pushed off, was another vessel of the same type which was very slowly
+making its way close in along the coast and was now quite near to us.
+The result of a short palaver amongst the akhardash was that they rowed
+quietly up to this boat, not a rifle showing and all except the four
+rowers sitting down as quiet as mice. On getting up to the new-comer
+they all jumped up and levelled their rifles at the unfortunate crew in
+true pirate style. The crew had no course left but to accept any orders
+they were given, and after a few minutes' violent yelling and
+gesticulation their captain and one other were transferred to our boat,
+while Musa and the Fat Boy took their places in the other. Both boats
+now sailed off in company. There was a good breeze from the east and
+they had decided to make for Sevastopol; but it soon became evident that
+they had little idea of the direction as a course N.E. was taken,
+whereas Sevastopol lay rather to the west of the point at which we left
+the coast. Other diversions, however, put questions of direction in the
+background for some time. To start with, the spar in our boat very
+nearly broke in two and had to be lowered and patched with two small
+pieces of wood and some old nails, a makeshift which gave little promise
+of being a permanent remedy. This was not accomplished without a
+tremendous hullabaloo, in which Bihgar played a prominent part. Arms
+were waving and all seemed to be yelling instructions to all the others.
+
+During the process the end of the rope suspending the spar ran through
+the pulley at the top of the mast, and it became necessary to get it
+back again somehow. The captured captain of the second boat made a noble
+effort, swarming up the mast and holding on to the shrouds like a
+monkey; but the boat was rocking about a good deal and after several
+vain attempts he had to give it up. This necessitated the mast being
+unshipped and causing more frantic excitement, especially when the
+moment arrived to put it up again. But, in the end, the feat was
+successfully accomplished and both boats sailed off in company. The
+breeze was strong and the sea choppy. Several of the akhardash at once
+became _hors de combat_ and remained nearly motionless at the bottom of
+the boat for the next three days. It was a glorious morning, and, as we
+watched the coast receding, we were more than repaid for all the
+discomfort of the last few weeks. The Sinope headland stood out away on
+our right, and it was not till late in the afternoon that we were out of
+sight of the mountains. A small boat crossed our course soon after
+starting, but there were no signs of any pursuit or commotion on shore.
+We wondered what stories of our doings would reach our friends in
+Kastamuni, and were pretty sure that the Turks would tell them we had
+come to an unhappy end at the hands of the "brigands."
+
+We now attempted to get our friends to steer a course more nearly north
+instead of north-east; but they would not do so, as they were in a
+terrible state of apprehension lest they should reach Rumanian territory
+occupied by Germans. K. produced our chart--the largest map of the Black
+Sea we had been able to find at Kastamuni--but it was only some three or
+four inches long and coming as it did from an "Ancient Atlas" showed the
+Greek colonies in 500 B.C. and nothing more modern. We were not sure of
+the exact position of Sevastopol but did not allow our friends to know.
+Whatever was urged had no effect and the course remained N.E.
+
+[Illustration: MAP (ACTUAL SIZE) OF THE BLACK SEA]
+
+When dark came on, it soon became evident that neither our captured
+mariners nor the akhardash had the least idea of steering by the stars;
+and, finally, about midnight, Tip discovered we were going about due
+east. We thought it was high time we took charge, and therefore arranged
+to take watches, one of us sitting up beside the steersman and keeping
+the direction a little west of north. The boat had no cabin, but the
+stern was decked across and we were allowed to keep this to ourselves.
+All the first day there had been a good breeze, but it became much
+feebler at night. With dawn the wind grew stronger again, and we were
+making a good pace in company with the second boat when, at nine
+o'clock, signals of distress from her were noticed. She was about 300
+yards from us at the time and it was impossible to make out what had
+happened. Pandemonium at once reigned on board and we thought by the
+commotion that our companion must be sinking. After much shouting, our
+sail was lowered, the oars got out and the vessel slowly brought up to
+our comrade in distress, only to find that the latter had broken her
+rudder. Much shouting now took place on both sides. Any thought of
+steering with an oar was never entertained and they decided to abandon
+one boat. As the captured second boat was so much the better of the two,
+an attempt was made to substitute our rudder in her, but without
+success. The result was that she was abandoned after transferring her
+crew, sail and spar, and part of her cargo to our boat. We were now
+packed very tightly, having a total of nineteen on board. Some of the
+ballast had been thrown overboard, but not enough to compensate for the
+additional load. Had we realized at the time that the second boat had a
+valuable cargo of kerosine, the price of which was fabulous in Turkey,
+we should have made some attempt to salve her or, at all events, have
+set her on fire. This information was not divulged till afterwards, but
+even so it is doubtful if she would not have sunk before drifting ashore
+or being discovered by another boat.
+
+All went well, despite the crowd, until about midday, when the wind
+dropped altogether and rowing had to be resorted to. The boat was
+arranged for four oars and it was in this capacity that the captured
+crew proved of the greatest service. They were relieved at intervals by
+some of the akhardash. We calculated our speed when rowing at about two
+miles an hour, whereas for the first 24 hours it must have been at least
+double this. I plotted our course as nearly as possible on the
+diminutive map, and it was annoying to see how much further on we should
+have been had we started in the right direction the day before.
+
+Our rations were the coarse bread, together with a little honey and
+butter which we had preserved for some days; but as neither of the
+latter could be said to be good they were not of much value. Some of our
+Horlick's milk was still left, and this helped matters along.
+
+The morning of the third day broke with windless serenity and rowing
+went on uninterruptedly. The sky was perfectly clear, but at midday we
+noticed some very small clouds straight ahead which seemed stationary.
+We held on our course, trusting that the clouds meant land. At 6 o'clock
+that morning, as far as we could make out from the chart, we were at
+least seventy miles from the nearest point of the Crimea.
+
+During the afternoon the question of rations and water was discussed,
+and we decided that if land was not in sight the next morning to take
+over all the remaining bread and water and distribute it ourselves, as
+the akhardash had not the least idea of rationing and used to eat and
+drink as the inclination prompted them. We had not liked to interfere
+before, but now it was a matter of necessity.
+
+The sun set in a glorious blaze, and just at this moment there was a
+commotion at the forward end of the boat and the word went round that
+land was sighted. It was anything but clear, but we took the word of the
+sailors for it and every one became much excited. Just before this
+event, Keor had made a fire in the bottom of the boat, making a hearth
+with some of the stone ballast and using some floor boards and any other
+bits of wood he could find as fuel. On this was cooked some meal which
+had been brought in from the abandoned boat; sea water was used to boil
+it and a very useful sort of porridge resulted.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+THE CRIMEA AND HOME
+
+
+At dawn on the fourth day, September 25th, the land was very clear and
+we could see a lofty headland which ran steeply down to the sea. An hour
+or two later, we could make out houses and then it became clear that we
+were approaching some seaside resort. All through the previous two days,
+after we had taken charge of the steering, the akhardash had continually
+inquired whether the "road" was "good" and they were now more than
+satisfied that we knew the best way over the sea. Fortune had been with
+us, in giving us fine weather and clear skies by day and night;
+otherwise we might have reached a very different destination. Rowing on
+steadily, it was soon clear that the place was quite extensive and
+probably much frequented. Several large buildings could be seen and
+something which looked like a pier or jetty, to which we now steered. It
+was not until one o'clock that we finally reached this spot and landed,
+to find ourselves opposite the baths.
+
+For days we had talked of the delights of a good hot bath and now we had
+come straight to the very place. We were met by a Swiss who was bathing.
+He hurried off to dress, but before he could return we were accosted by
+several other people, notably a retired Russian general and an American
+diplomat who lent us clothes and escorted us to the baths. After getting
+really clean once more, we were taken to a _pension_ and made the guests
+of the hospitable Russian ladies to whom it belonged. They told us the
+place was called Alupka and was one of the most popular seaside places
+in Russia. Meanwhile the akhardash had been escorted into the town. In
+the morning they had begun to don their bandoliers and handle their
+rifles, but we persuaded them that they would be looked upon in a more
+friendly manner on landing if they abandoned these weapons.
+
+[Illustration: ALUPKA]
+
+It had taken us 78 hours to cross the 180 miles of sea, but actually we
+must have sailed well over 200 miles. We found that, comparing our
+position on the third morning with the spot we had marked on the map, we
+were only some twenty miles out, which, as amateur navigators, we
+considered quite good work.
+
+At the _pension_ we were given lunch, and wine was produced in our
+honour by our new friends. We shall never forget their kindness, and the
+extraordinary feeling of being amongst all the amenities of civilization
+once more after two years under other conditions. In the afternoon, we
+were taken to the municipal office and there interviewed by a very
+business-like and intelligent lady who seemed to combine the duties of
+commissioner of police and most other municipal departments. Our friends
+told us that there was some difficulty in establishing our identity,
+since the commandant of the town--who a few months earlier before the
+Revolution had been an actor--was very suspicious and inclined to
+believe we were really Germans. In fact, some splendid stories were
+going about. According to one, a boat-load of Turks under the command of
+three German officers had attacked the town, one of the Germans being
+wounded. Tip had been to see a doctor and this no doubt lent colour to
+the idea. At all events, the commandant told off a sentry to shadow us
+about wherever we went.
+
+The akhardash, we found, had been accommodated in the central police
+building, where they had been given plenty of food and seemed to be
+receiving visitors. We bought them some fruit and tried to cheer them
+up, as they had imagined they would be received with triumphal
+rejoicings and were somewhat crestfallen at being treated more like
+prisoners. Our first object was to get in touch with the nearest British
+consul, so as to put their case before him and get matters explained to
+the Russian authorities; but no one seemed to know where the nearest
+consul was to be found. We got telegrams sent off to our people at home
+addressed to the Embassy at Petrograd. It was hopeless at this time to
+try to get private telegrams through, and for mails from home we found
+they were even worse off here than we had been in Kastamuni. It was
+strange, indeed, being in a spick and span town, with well made roads
+and everything clean and up-to-date, after the filthy dilapidation which
+characterizes everything in connection with the Turk.
+
+[Illustration: THE ALUPKA BATHS]
+
+Some people we met seemed rather annoyed that we had not struck a mine,
+as they assured us there was a large minefield through which we had
+passed. We discovered, later, this was quite wrong, but in any case our
+boat was of much too shallow draft to be in much danger. Others told us
+that we were fortunate to land where we did, as had we gone a little
+further east we should have come to the estates of some of the Grand
+Dukes who at that time were interned under armed guards, with orders to
+prevent anyone approaching from land or sea! We were told that every one
+was on rations and that food was getting scarce. One of the most
+striking contrasts to Turkey was the magnificent fruit on sale, grapes,
+pears and peaches, all evidently cultivated with great skill.
+
+As we emerged from our interview with the lady commissioner, we were
+summoned to halt in order to be cinematographed by the representatives
+of some Moscow firm. All the educated people we met in Russia were
+kindness itself to us and made our journey through the country very
+pleasant. It was pathetic to be asked, as we were, to tell people in
+England that not every one in Russia is bad and worthless. All classes,
+we found, had welcomed the Revolution when it started, thinking a new
+and brighter era had dawned; but it very soon became clear that the
+pendulum was swinging much too far in the other direction, and no one
+would dare to prophesy what might happen next. Fortunately for us, there
+was no actual internal fighting taking place at the time and we got
+through the country without trouble.
+
+The following day we left Alupka by motor for Yalta, a port a little
+further east. The road led past some of the Grand Dukes' estates and
+Livadia, the Tsar's Crimean palace. The scenery all along was
+magnificent, the pine-clad hillsides sloping steeply down to the blue,
+with white houses or palaces. Yalta itself was one of the most charming
+spots it had been our good fortune to see, and is easily equal in beauty
+to any of the Riviera resorts. From here we were to travel by night by a
+transport back past Alupka, reaching Sevastopol on the following
+morning, but before leaving a surprise was in store for us. As we had
+some time to wait, we went into an hotel, with the officer conducting
+us, for tea. This, however, we found was the headquarters of the local
+committee of soldiers and workmen, and a few minutes later we were asked
+to go into their meeting hall to receive their congratulations. This
+promised to be rather awkward, as we knew no word of Russian; but
+fortunately a schoolmaster who knew French was introduced to us. As we
+entered the room, the soldiers and sailors present all clapped
+vigorously. There were about 30 or 40 present and it was necessary, as
+on every possible occasion in Russia, to shake hands all round. The
+schoolmaster then gave a harrowing account of our imprisonment in
+Turkey and told them how we had eventually escaped and reached Russia.
+He appeared to say that we had been manacled in chains and endured the
+worst possible fortune as prisoners. After a suitable expression of
+thanks conveyed through the schoolmaster, we shook hands again all round
+and returned to our tea. This was our only actual meeting with a
+revolutionary committee, and we are bound to say they seemed to have no
+love for the Turk or any wish to leave their Allies in the lurch by
+concluding a separate peace.
+
+[Illustration: YALTA]
+
+The transports steamed only at night and kept close into the coast for
+fear of possible submarines; so that the chances of our being picked up
+by one on our way over had been very remote.
+
+The akhardash travelled with us to Sevastopol, and on arrival there we
+met the British Naval Representative, Commander Sage, R.N., who looked
+after us for the next few days. As he spoke Russian fluently and was in
+touch with all the highest authorities, we had no trouble of any sort.
+The akhardash were handed over to the Russian Staff authorities, who
+provided them with good quarters on a ship in the harbour. We three
+lived with Commander Sage on an auxiliary cruiser, the _Almaz_, which
+had previously been used as a private yacht by the Grand Dukes. The
+akhardash had for some time wished that we should all be photographed
+together and we, too, were anxious to have such mementoes of our time
+with them. The Russian Staff very kindly arranged it and we had two
+groups taken, one with our original rescuers with their rifles and
+bandoliers, and one with all the others included. Unfortunately Keor,
+the old Armenian, was ill in hospital and could not be present. As some
+days had elapsed before the photos were taken, our friends had obtained
+new clothing and hats and, therefore, did not present the picturesque
+appearance to which we had become accustomed. As regards some recompense
+for all their services, we could not get them to accept anything more
+than what they had spent on our food during all the time we were with
+them, but the Russians paid them the exact sum they had given for the
+boat, so that they were not out of pocket on that account. As souvenirs,
+they had given us each one of their long Caucasian daggers, and we in
+return got wrist watches for them and a suitably inscribed cigarette
+case for Bihgar Bey. We left them in good hands and have often wondered
+since what has been their fortune. No men could have acted more pluckily
+in rescuing us in the first place, or taken more trouble over our
+comfort and welfare during the weeks we spent with them in the hills and
+woods; and never shall we forget how much we owe them.
+
+[Illustration: THE THREE OFFICERS AND THREE OF THEIR RESCUERS]
+
+After some days in Sevastopol, we said good-bye to them and went round
+to Odessa on the _Almaz_, where we made arrangements with the British
+consul for our journey home. At Odessa we were entertained at a most
+convivial dinner by the British and American Club. Like all dinners in
+Russia, it proved prolific in speeches, a start being made with the
+King's health, in the middle of the fish course, by an enthusiastic
+American. From these speeches we learnt how whole-heartedly the great
+American nation had entered the struggle and the efforts they were
+making in Russia, more especially with regard to improving the railways.
+Coming out of the obscurity of Turkey, these things were new to us,
+although by reading between the lines of the Turkish papers we had been
+able to get a fair idea of the general position on the actual battle
+fronts. Another speaker told a pitiful story of the position in Rumania
+and of the appalling lack of medical stores and awful ravages of disease
+in the Army. A visit to the races and opera helped to pass two very
+enjoyable days before saying good-bye to Commander Sage and our new
+friends, and leaving for Mogileff, the then headquarters on the Russian
+front to which we had been summoned by the British Mission.
+
+On our way we passed through Kieff, a magnificent town, peopled very
+largely by Poles. Here we met some forlorn British gunners who did not
+know what was to be their fate, but were soon, I trust, back in England.
+After a day in Mogileff we went on to Petrograd. Travelling even at this
+time was very comfortable on the Russian lines, for those with passes
+such as we possessed, except for the temperature of the carriages. In
+some it was impossible to open any window. The result was that we all
+got heavy colds, although during the past six weeks we had kept fit
+while sleeping out in the open and occasionally getting soaked through.
+
+Petrograd was cold, wet, and dreary, and we spent our time in rushing
+about between the various departments before we could get passports and
+tickets through to Bergen. We, eventually, accomplished this by hard
+work in three days, and were then told we were fortunate not to have
+been kept at it for a week. It was necessary to borrow mufti to travel
+through Sweden and Norway. Clothes in Russia were practically
+unobtainable, but, fortunately for us, two naval officers at the
+Embassy came to our rescue by most generously giving us the necessary
+garments. We were also indebted to the Red Cross Depot at the Embassy
+for other assistance in the way of clothes.
+
+[Illustration: THE THREE OFFICERS AND THE AKHARDASH]
+
+Tip and I left on October 14th, and after an interesting trip through
+Sweden and Norway reached Aberdeen ten days later.
+
+K., on the other hand, returned to the Black Sea. It had been hoped, and
+we had done our best to arrange, that an attempt should be made with the
+assistance of the akhardash to release some of the other officers at
+Kastamuni. Unfortunately this plan never materialized: for one thing our
+friends were moved further inland from Kastamuni before any attempt
+could be made, and when everything was settled on our side the Bolshevik
+rising had commenced and brought all plans to a standstill. K. reached
+England two months later, after having made a trip over to the Turkish
+coast in a Russian destroyer, and worked in every conceivable way to
+bring off the scheme for the rescue of the other officers. His
+persistent but unsuccessful efforts bring the account of our adventures
+to a close.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+FRIENDS IN CAPTIVITY
+
+
+This story would not be complete without recording the deaths of Captain
+R. J. Tipton, R.F.C., and Captain R. T. Sweet, D.S.O., 2/7th Ghurka
+Rifles.
+
+Tipton, after very few days at home, reported again for duty and would
+not rest content until he had obtained leave to fly and fight over the
+German lines. For this purpose he had refused his majority. On March 9th
+he was severely wounded in a fight with a Hun whom he brought down. With
+great courage and skill he brought his own machine back and landed
+safely, but the injury he had received proved fatal and he died three
+days later.
+
+Tipton thus went back to fight at the earliest possible moment, feeling
+it his duty to the other officers left behind in Turkey, who were bound
+to be suffering for our escape. Although the youngest of our party, he
+was our leader on the long journey to the coast; and to his unfailing
+good humour and tact we owed much more than we realized at the time.
+Although in pain for many days, he kept cheerfully on and would never
+give in.
+
+Few men have been more beloved by all with whom they came in contact,
+and his gallant death has left a wide blank in the affections of all who
+had the privilege to know him.
+
+Sweet, whose gallantry at Kut had earned him the D.S.O., was imprisoned
+at Angora, after being brought back from the coast, and exhibited to the
+other officers at Kastamuni for a few minutes on the way. He shouted to
+them to take a few days' provisions and try their luck, that it was
+quite easy to get away, and that he meant to start again the first
+chance he had. In reply they cheered him, much to the disgust of the
+Turks.
+
+After two dreadful months in the civil prison at Angora, he was taken to
+the officers' camp at Yozgad, a place 4,000 feet above the sea amongst
+the hills, in the very centre of Asia Minor. Here he remained till a few
+weeks before the armistice with Turkey was announced, when he fell a
+victim to the influenza scourge and died of pneumonia.
+
+In our escape Sweet was always the most indefatigable, and on many an
+occasion spurred us on when we three had no energy left. His knowledge
+of Turkish was invaluable and enabled us successfully to bluff our way
+along during the days when we were posing as Germans. It was only the
+merest accident that parted him from us when the akhardash arrived, and
+it is hard to feel that so small a thing should have ultimately resulted
+in the death of such a brave officer.
+
+The first officers who died in Kastamuni were Lieutenants Reynolds, of
+the 103rd L.I., and Lock, of the I.A.R.O., attached 104th Rifles.
+Reynolds had been unwell during most of the journey up and, undoubtedly,
+had not got over the hardships of the siege; he succumbed within a few
+days of our arrival. Lock, who had been an indigo planter in Bihar, went
+down with peritonitis very shortly afterwards. Both officers had done
+well in Kut and were greatly liked by all who knew them. Their death in
+a strange country, after the worst of our troubles seemed to be over,
+was all the sadder to think of.
+
+The third officer who died was Commander Crabtree, R.N.R., of the S.Y.
+_Zaida_, which struck a mine while patrolling the Adana coast. He,
+along with three other officers from the same ship, was sent on to
+Kastamuni. At Angora he was ill, but the Turks considered him fit enough
+to travel, and sent him on in a springless country cart over the 140
+miles of rough road to Kastamuni. Riding in a cart over this road is bad
+enough for a fit man, but in his case it must have simply jolted him to
+death. At all events, he arrived dying, and never regained
+consciousness.
+
+Another sad death occurred amongst the officers after they had been
+moved to Changri from Kastamuni. On Christmas Day, 1917, Major Corbett,
+48th Pioneers, died suddenly from an aneurism of the heart after some
+strenuous tobogganing, which had been allowed as a special concession.
+
+Major Corbett was one of those officers who assisted our party to escape
+and would himself have come with us had he considered there was any
+small chance of success. To the camp at Kastamuni he was invaluable as
+staff officer to the lower group of houses, always energetic and cheery
+and turning his hand to something. Carpentry formed his chief occupation
+when not playing games.
+
+He was one of those men whom we felt we simply could not do without, and
+his loss may well be imagined in the camp at Changri, where conditions
+had been rough and painful in the extreme.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX A
+
+_GARRISON OF KUT_
+
+
+HEADQUARTERS
+
+MAJOR-GEN. C. V. TOWNSHEND, G.O.C.
+
+ { 2nd Dorsets.
+ 16th Infantry Brigade, { 66th Punjabis.
+ MAJ.-GEN. DELAMAIN. { 104th Rifles.
+ { 117th Mahrattas.
+
+ { Oxford and Bucks L.I.
+ 17th Infantry Brigade, { 22nd Punjabis.
+ GEN. HOGHTON. { 103rd Infantry.
+ { 119th Infantry.
+
+ { 2nd Norfolks.
+ 18th Infantry Brigade, { 120th Infantry.
+ GEN. HAMILTON. { 110th Infantry.
+ { 7th Rajputs.
+
+ { 2 Coys. Royal West Kents.
+ { 3 Coys. 4th Hants T.F.
+ 30th Infantry Brigade, { 2/7th Ghurka Rifles.
+ MAJ.-GEN. MELLIS. { 24th Punjabis.
+ { 67th Punjabis.
+ { 76th Punjabis.
+
+
+DIVISIONAL TROOPS
+
+ 17th Coy., S. & M.
+ 34th (Poona) Signalling Co.
+ Sirmoor Sappers (Imperial Service).
+ 1 Squadron 7th Hariana Lancers.
+ 48th Pioneers.
+ 63rd, 76th, 82nd Batteries, R.F.A. 18 guns, 18 pdr.
+ 104th Battery, R.G.A. 2 4" guns.
+ 84th Battery, R.G.A. 4 5" guns.
+ Volunteer Battery. 4 15 pdr. guns.
+ "S" Battery, R.H.A., left behind 2 14 pdr. guns.
+
+ Naval Detachment. 4 4.7" pdr. guns.
+
+ H.M.S. _Samarra_: 2 3 pdr. guns; 1 13 pdr. gun.
+ Machine Gun Battery (6 guns).
+ Supply and Transport, including Jeypore
+ Transport Train, Wireless, Royal Flying Corps,
+ Depot and other details.
+
+
+MEDICAL SERVICE
+
+ One British General Hospital.
+ One Indian General Hospital.
+ 3 Field Ambulances.
+
+
+ _Strength of garrison at_ _Strength on_
+ _beginning of siege._ _surrender._
+
+ British Officers 301 277
+ British Rank and File 2,851 2,592
+ Indian Officers 225 204
+ Indian Rank and File 8,230 6,988
+ Indian Followers 3,530 3,248
+ ------ ------
+ Total 15,137 13,309
+ ====== ======
+
+ Losses: Killed and died of wounds, 1,025.
+ Died of disease, and missing, 803.
+ Arab population of Kut (?) 3,700.
+ Animals (horses and mules) before killing for food, 3,000.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX B
+
+
+Copy of translation of pamphlets thrown over from Turkish trenches
+towards our line during the earlier part of the siege and picked up
+between the two old lines when these had been evacuated on Jan. 21st.
+
+ OH DEAR INDIAN BRETHREN,
+
+ You understand the fact well that God has created this war for the
+ sake of setting India free from the hands of the cruel English. That
+ is the reason why all the Rajahs and Nawabs with the help of Brave
+ Indian soldiers are at present creating disturbances in all parts of
+ India and are forcing the English out of the country. Consequently
+ not a single Englishman is to be seen in the N.W. Frontier of India
+ districts of Saad, Chakdara, Mohmand and Kohat. Brave Indian
+ soldiers have killed several of their officers at Singapore,
+ Secunderabad and Meerut cantonments. Many of the Indian soldiers
+ have on several occasions joined our allies the Turks, Germans, and
+ Austrians of which you must have heard.
+
+ O heroes! our friends the Turks, Germans and Austrians are trying
+ merely for the freedom of our country (India) from the English and
+ you being Indians are fighting against them thus causing delay. On
+ seeing your degraded position one feels severely ashamed (lit.
+ 'blood in the eyes') that you have not got fed up of their
+ disgraceful conduct and hatred towards you.
+
+ You should remember how cruelly were Maharajah Ranjit Singh of the
+ Punjab and Sultan Tipu treated by the English govt., and now when
+ our beloved country is being released from their cruel clutches you
+ should not delay the freedom of your country and try to restore
+ happiness to the souls of your forefathers as you come from the same
+ heroic generation to which the brave soldiers of the Dardanelles and
+ Egypt belong.
+
+ You must have heard about the recent fighting in the Dardanelles
+ when Lord Hamilton was wounded and Lord Kitchener cowardly ran away
+ at night taking with him only the British soldiers from the
+ Dardanelles siege and leaving behind the Indian soldiers who on
+ seeing this murdered all their officers and joined the Turks.
+
+ Nearly everywhere we find that our Indian soldiers are leaving the
+ British. Is it not a pity that you still go on assisting them? Just
+ consider that these and we have left our homes and country and are
+ fighting only for rupees fifteen or twenty; a subaltern 20 or 25
+ years old is drawing a handsome amount as salary from Indian money
+ while our old Risaldar and Subadar majors are paid nothing like
+ him--and even a British soldier does not salute them. Is that all
+ the respect and share of wealth for the sake of which we should let
+ them enjoy our country?
+
+ For instance see how many of you Indian soldiers were killed and
+ wounded during the battle of Ctesiphon and there is nobody to look
+ after the families of your deceased and wounded brothers. Just
+ compare the pay a British soldier draws with that which you get.
+ Brethren hurry up, the British Kingdom is going to ruins now.
+ Bulgaria gave them several defeats, Ireland and the Transvaal are
+ out of their possessions of which perhaps you already know.
+
+ H.M. the Sultan's brave Turkish forces which were engaged at the
+ Bulgar frontier before are now coming over this side in lacs for the
+ purpose of setting India at liberty.
+
+ We were forced by the British to leave our beloved country for good
+ and had to live in America, but on hearing the news of our country
+ being freed from English hands we came here via Germany and found
+ our Indian brethren fighting against H.M. Sultan.
+
+ Other nations are trying to restore us freedom from the British, but
+ it appears we do not like to be freed from slavery, hence we are
+ fighting against our friends the Turks.
+
+ Brethren, what is done, that is done, and now you should murder all
+ your officers and come over to join H.M. Sultan's Army like our
+ brave Indian soldiers did in Egypt and the Dardanelles. All the
+ officers of this force and Arabs have received orders from the
+ Sultan that any Indian soldier, irrespective of any caste, a Sikh,
+ Rajput, Mahratta, Gurkha, Pathan, Shiah or Syed, who come to join
+ the Turks should be granted a handsome pay and land for cultivation
+ if they like to settle in the Sultan's territory. So you must not
+ miss the chance of murdering your officers and joining the Turks,
+ helping them to restore your freedom.
+
+ Dated _28th December, 1915_.
+
+ Printed and distributed by the Indian National Society.
+
+ Translated from originals in Urdu and Pushtu or Punjabi.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX C
+
+
+Comparison of rations issued in Kut at the middle of April, 1916, with
+full service rations.
+
+
+BRITISH
+
+ _Normal Field Service._ _In Kut._
+
+ Bread, 1-1/4 lb. 4 oz. (from April 17th).
+ Fresh meat, 1-1/4 lb. 1-1/4-1-1/2 lb. (horse and
+ mule).
+ Potatoes and vegetables, 1/2 lb. Nil. (except sag).
+ Bacon, 3 oz. Nil.
+ (or butter 1-1/2 oz. twice a week).
+ Tea, 5/8 oz. Nil.
+ Sugar, 3 oz. Nil.
+ Salt, 1/2 oz. Nil.
+ Jam, 4 oz. Nil.
+ Cheese, 3 oz. Nil.
+ Ginger, ---- 1/3 oz.
+
+
+INDIAN
+
+ _Normal Field Service._ _In Kut._
+
+ Atta (wheat meal), 1-1/2 lb. 4 oz. (barley meal).
+ Ghi, 2 oz. 1/2 oz.
+ Dal, 4 oz. Nil.
+ Meat, 4 oz. 9 oz. (horse).
+ Gur, 1 oz. Nil.
+ Potatoes, 2 oz. Nil.
+ Tea, 1/3 oz. Nil.
+ Ginger, 1/3 oz. }
+ Chillies, 1/6 oz. }
+ Turmeric, 1/6 oz. } 1/8 oz.
+ Garlic, 1/6 oz. }
+ Salt, 1/2 oz. }
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX D
+
+RATIONS AT END OF SIEGE
+
+
+All except meat and ginger dropped by aeroplane.
+
+ _British._ _Indian._
+
+ Bread, 3 oz. Indian atta, 3 oz.
+ Sugar, 1 oz. Gur, 1/2 oz.
+ Chocolate, 1/2 oz. Dal, 1 oz.
+ Meat, 1-1/2 lb. (horse or mule). Salt, 1/8 oz.
+ Ginger, 1/8 oz.
+ Meat, 9 oz. (horse).
+
+
+
+
+JOHN LANE'S "ON ACTIVE SERVICE" SERIES.
+
+Now that the Great War is definitely over it is necessary to get it
+adequately chronicled. Of necessity we must have comprehensive surveys
+of the war, formal histories in many volumes; but the real history of
+the great conflict is to be found not so much in these, as in the vital
+pieces of descriptive literature which our fighting men have struck off,
+often while the drama was being enacted before their eyes. It is with
+the object of getting together a really vivid and actual record of the
+world conflict, which will be of service not only to ourselves, but to
+our children, that the "ON ACTIVE SERVICE" Series has been formed. It
+consists of a number of volumes, uniform in format and production, which
+have been selected as being representative of particular aspects or
+phases of the war, written by soldiers, sailors and others who have
+witnessed or actually participated in what they describe. Here, in these
+personal experiences of our men, is an enduring record of the last four
+or five years; a record which, more surely than any formal histories,
+will carry forward the memory of those tragic but glorious days.
+
+
+_THE FOLLOWING VOLUMES HAVE ALREADY BEEN PUBLISHED_
+
+DOVER DURING THE DARK DAYS. By a "Dug-out" (LT. COMM. STANLEY COXON,
+R.N.V.R. Author of "And That Reminds Me.") With contributions by other
+officers of the DOVER PATROL. Crown 8vo. 7/- net.
+
+ This book lifts the veil which was so closely drawn over the
+ operations of the Navy during war-time. It gives accounts of many
+ engagements and scraps with the enemy, written by actual
+ participants, and forms a valuable contribution to the history of
+ our navy during the most momentous years of its existence.
+
+ "_The real thing._"--_Daily Express._
+
+ "_Makes good reading._"--_Times._
+
+ "_Spirited and exciting._"--_Yorkshire Observer._
+
+ "_The book has many fine pages in it._"--_Evening News._
+
+TEMPORARY CRUSADERS. By CECIL SUMMERS, author of "Temporary Heroes."
+Crown 8vo. 4/- net.
+
+ A further volume by the author of the very successful "Temporary
+ Heroes," describing his experiences in France, Palestine, Egypt and
+ Italy.
+
+ "_A cheery, chatty chronicle. The author has a keen eye for the
+ humour of circumstance and a most beguiling way._"--_Morning Post._
+
+ "_Bright and exhilarating. It is sure to be read widely._"--_Scotsman._
+
+ "_Even more hearty and sincere than the successful 'Temporary
+ Heroes.'_"--_Liverpool Courier._
+
+THE BOY WITH THE GUNS. By the late LIEUT. G. W. TAYLOR. Edited by his
+sister MRS. ROGER COOKSON. With an introduction by SIR JAMES
+CRICHTON-BROWNE. With Illustrations and Maps. Crown 8vo. 5/- net.
+
+ This is a vividly realistic account of the work done and hardships
+ endured by our Royal Field Artillery in the war, and of their
+ "hair-breadth 'scapes in the imminent deadly breach" in France and
+ Flanders, by one who went through them all and made the supreme
+ sacrifice.
+
+PUSHING WATER. By R.N.V. (LIEUT. ERIC DAWSON.) Crown 8vo. 4/- net.
+
+ "Pushing Water" reveals a phase of warfare of which the world knows
+ little or nothing. It is the story of the "Movy" of
+ submarine-hunting and mine sweeping in perilous seas, of duties
+ faithfully accomplished, without expectation of fame or reward. As a
+ sidelight on a branch of the Navy's activities it has a good deal of
+ interest, but the book would recommend itself on the score of its
+ quiet humour and abundant anecdote alone.
+
+ "_This entertaining book ... a vivid picture of existence on a
+ 'Movy.'_"--_Sunday Times._
+
+ "_An animated narrative._"--_Scotsman._
+
+ "_Described with real humour ... decidedly
+ interesting._"--_Birmingham Post._
+
+A HANDFUL OF AUSSEYS. By C. HAMPTON THORP, A.I.F., with a foreword by
+General Sir William Birdwood, K.C.B., K.C.S.I., K.C.M.G., etc., and an
+Introductory Poem by Robert Bridges, Poet Laureate. With Illustrations
+by James F. Scott. Crown 8vo. 7/- net.
+
+ "A Handful of Ausseys" is the only book from the pen of an
+ Australian soldier which deals intimately with the troopship voyage
+ between the Commonwealth and England, and the more detailed side of
+ the Soldier's life in England before he goes across the Channel.
+
+ "_Well justifies its place among war books, for it is well written,
+ graphic and amusing, and full of facts and anecdotes.... The
+ illustrations are rather telling and rather original._"--_Times._
+
+ "_Among the good war pictures of the present war, the description of
+ this draft's moving up to the firing line deserves to find a
+ pleasant place._"--_Bookman._
+
+ "_Racily describes with much good humour and amusing anecdote the
+ daily experiences of an Australian reinforcement ... these bright
+ and spirited pages._"--_Scotsman._
+
+THREE CHEVRONS. By "OREX" (MAJOR H. F. BIDDER, D.S.O.) Crown 8vo. 5/-
+net.
+
+ An absolutely authentic, cool record of what the author saw on the
+ Flanders front from Christmas, 1914, to June, 1917. It contains the
+ experiences of a clear-sighted conscientious officer who keeps as
+ close as possible to fact and maintains his detached judicial point
+ of view. A book which both the military man and public generally
+ will appreciate for its freshness and candour.
+
+ "_'Orex' has made a singularly successful contribution to war
+ literature by the direct method of honesty, modesty and simplicity.
+ His book is a pleasant surprise.... He expresses it all in an
+ individuality of great charm, the charm of literary unconsciousness
+ and quiet restraint.... In every respect a good book._"--_Daily
+ News._
+
+ "_Simply and attractively written, and quite worth its place in the
+ ON ACTIVE SERVICE Series._"--_Times._
+
+SOME SOLDIERS AND LITTLE MAMMA. By HELEN BOULNOIS. Crown 8vo. 5/-
+net.
+
+ "_A book of singular interest.... Remarkable for its sidelights, on
+ what may be called the domestic phases of the war._"--_Daily
+ Graphic._
+
+THE SILENCE OF COLONEL BRAMBLE. By ANDRE MAUROIS. Translated from the
+French. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 5/- net.
+
+ This remarkably amusing account of an English regimental mess by a
+ French officer who was attached as an interpreter, has had an
+ immense vogue in France, and its appeal to English readers will
+ without doubt be equally wide.
+
+ "_Those who do not already know the book in French, will lose
+ nothing of its charm in English form.... The humours of the mess
+ room are inimitable.... The whole thing is real, alive, sympathetic.
+ There is not a false touch in all its delicate glancing
+ wit._"--_Daily Telegraph._
+
+ "_An excellent translation.... A gay and daring translation.... I
+ laughed over its audacious humour._"--_JAMES DOUGLAS in The Star._
+
+FIELD AMBULANCE SKETCHES. By a Corporal. Crown 8vo. 4/- net.
+
+ These sketches by a stretcher-bearer are extraordinarily clear and
+ actual. "Behind a Raid" is a wonderfully vivid piece of work; the
+ reader lives every second of these thrilling hours, and the whole
+ scene is touched in masterly style. The other pages are equally
+ fine. To the civilian they bring home the actualities of War; while
+ soldiers of every class will enjoy them in their fine truthfulness.
+
+SAPPER DOROTHY LAWRENCE: The only English Woman Soldier. Late Royal
+Engineers, 51st Division, 179th Tunnelling Company, B.E.F. With
+Portraits. Crown 8vo. 5/- net.
+
+ Miss Dorothy Lawrence enjoys the distinction of having been the only
+ British woman soldier, and in this book she sets out her varied
+ experiences, first in Paris, where she did the necessary drills, and
+ finally "up the line."
+
+A KUT PRISONER. By H. C. W. BISHOP. Illustrated. Crown 8vo. 6/- net.
+
+ More exciting than any fictitious story of adventure the main part
+ of this book is occupied by the story of the author's escape, in
+ company with three other British officers, from Kastamuni in Asia
+ Minor. MR. BISHOP was captured at the fall of Kut, and his narrative
+ includes a description of the appalling long march from Kut to
+ Kastamuni, during which such a large proportion of our men succumbed
+ to their sufferings which were wilfully aggravated by their
+ captors.
+
+WITH THE CHINKS. By Lieut. DARYL KLEIN. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo.
+6/6 net.
+
+ The author of "With the Chinks" was a civilian in China who
+ volunteered as an officer for the training of Chinese coolies who
+ were brought to France to form Labour Brigades to work behind the
+ lines. The characters of his charges are sketched with considerable
+ skill, and the voyage via Canada and the Panama Canal to France is
+ picturesquely described. The book forms a unique and interesting
+ page in the voluminous History of the War.
+
+
+_THE FOLLOWING ARE IN IMMEDIATE PREPARATION:_
+
+TALES OF A TROOPER. By A. CLUTHA MACKENZIE. Crown 8vo.
+
+ These tales convey in the most living manner the experiences and
+ sensations of a typical Anzac en route to the war, then landed at
+ Gallipoli, and finally "knocked out" in the terrible battle for the
+ ridge.
+
+A PRISONER IN TURKEY. By JOHN STILL, author of "Poems in Captivity,"
+etc. Crown 8vo.
+
+ The author of this remarkable book was largely instrumental in
+ conveying to the British Government, by messages, in an ingenious
+ code of his own invention, sent at considerable personal risk, very
+ valuable information regarding the treatment of British Prisoners in
+ Turkey. In this book, which is an account of over three years'
+ imprisonment in Turkish hands, at Constantinople and at Afion Kara
+ Hissar, Mr. STILL gives a very forceful and vivid, but restrained
+ account of the trials, sufferings and dangers through which he and
+ his fellow prisoners passed during their long captivity.
+
+WARD TALES. By E. CHIVERS DAVIES. Crown 8vo.
+
+ In this capital little record of V.A.D. work in a hospital Miss
+ Davies combines very cleverly two points of view--the Nurses' and
+ Hospital Staff's, and the Tommies'. The author has humour, insight,
+ sympathy, and a very quick eye for a situation, and in the course of
+ her sketches she synthesizes the atmosphere and outlook of a big
+ Military Hospital, especially as it appears to a V.A.D. Soldiers,
+ and others, will delight in the truthful and entertaining pictures
+ of this admirable little book, as will all who have served, and are
+ serving, in hospital.
+
+BEHIND BOSCHE BARS. By E. WARBURTON. Crown 8vo.
+
+ A cleverly written description of a young English officer's
+ internment as a prisoner of war in Germany. As his experiences were
+ thoroughly typical of the later treatment by the Germans of officer
+ prisoners, his account forms a very valuable record of this aspect
+ of the war. The writer gives the Germans credit for some kind acts,
+ while laughing at them for their stiffness, pedantry and stupidity.
+ He conveys a strongly actual picture of the whole body of prisoners
+ in every camp--their ways of life, outlook, habits and feelings.
+
+WITH THE SERBS IN MACEDONIA. By DOUGLAS WALSHE. Illustrated. Crown
+8vo.
+
+ This is a very bright account of war experiences in Macedonia, by an
+ A.S.C. officer, who has the gift of making his scenes _living_
+ scenes. Mr. WALSHE'S narrative is very human, and he gives us an
+ excellent bird's eye view of the country, and the tangle of races
+ inhabiting it.
+
+FOUR MONTHS IN ITALY IN WAR-TIME. By BEATRICE THOMSON. Crown 8vo.
+
+ This book gives a remarkably clear idea of hospital life, and also
+ of Italian character and ways. It is a fine record of service, and
+ in its quiet restrained humanity it is a chronicle which deserves to
+ be widely read. The author served for several months in a war
+ hospital in France, and her sketches of her patients' characters and
+ her record of their talk and behaviour give us the real Italy.
+
+WITH THE CAVALRY IN THE WEST. By J. D. DELIUS. Illustrated. Crown 8vo.
+
+ While we have had many books describing the work of the Infantry and
+ Artillery in the war, very little has been written about the part
+ played by our Cavalrymen. The fact that their operations were
+ restricted by the conditions of modern warfare does not, however,
+ detract in the least from the interest of CAPTAIN DELIUS' book, for
+ it is a book of happy anecdote and amusing description, rather than
+ of the more repulsive side of war.
+
+FROM THE SOMME TO THE RHINE. By MAJOR A. ASHMEAD-BARTLETT. Crown 8vo.
+
+ This is a valuable narrative of the last phase of the Great War. The
+ author, who has the literary talent of his family has used his
+ opportunities as an Intelligence Officer to great advantage, and his
+ narrative is very clear, very picturesque and very human. He has
+ seized the salient details of what he is describing, and his
+ sincerity combined with his artistic gift, makes a moving, life-like
+ picture.
+
+ JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD,
+ VIGO STREET, LONDON, W.1.
+
+
+
+
+ * * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+Illustrations have been moved near the relevant section of the text.
+
+Inconsistent hyphenation and use of separate words have been retained for:
+
+ down stream/downstream
+ Eski Chehir/Eski-Chehir
+ framework/frame-work
+ goatskins/goat skins
+ half way/half-way
+ hillside/hill-side
+ machine guns/machine-guns
+ sheep tracks/sheep-tracks
+ some one/someone
+ tilework/tile-work
+ trench digging/trench-digging
+ up stream/up-stream
+ up to date/up-to-date
+ used up/used-up
+
+Inconsistencies in italicization and capitalization have been retained.
+
+The following minor typographical corrections were made:
+
+ Period added after "line" on Page 20
+ Space added before "the" on Page 54
+ "Poor" changed to "poor" on Page 131
+ Period removed after "Tip" on Page 185
+ "A pparently" changed to "Apparently" on Page 188
+ "pro cured" changed to "procured" on Page 195
+ "andfind" changed to "and find" on Page 196
+ "Bighar" changed to "Bihgar" on the illustration following Page
+ 196
+ Period added after "Mellis" and "Maj.-Gen. Mellis." centered on
+ Page 235
+ "in in" changed to "in" on Page 249
+ Period added after "Mackenzie" on Page 250
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A KUT PRISONER***
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