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diff --git a/33424-8.txt b/33424-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ef2a3e --- /dev/null +++ b/33424-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1009 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Instruction book on ring spinning, by Francis L. Lincoln + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Instruction book on ring spinning + +Author: Francis L. Lincoln + +Release Date: August 13, 2010 [EBook #33424] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INSTRUCTION BOOK ON RING SPINNING *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + +/$ +INSTRUCTION BOOK + +ON + +RING SPINNING + +BY + +FRANCIS L. LINCOLN. + + + + +WARREN, MASS. +HERALD PRINTING COMPANY. +1885. +$/ + + + + +/$ +Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1885, +By FRANCIS L. LINCOLN, +In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. +$/ + + + + +PREFACE. + + +The object of this little book is to give help and instruction to +those who are engaged in this department of mill work. It imparts that +knowledge which only years of thorough study and observation can give. +It has been carefully prepared by an experienced Spinner, who has +given years of study to it, in order to benefit and help those who are +interested in the Spinning department. + +/$ + FRANCIS L. LINCOLN, Author. +$/ + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +/$ + 1. The First Thing to do when going into a strange room to take + charge. + + 2. To see that your Draughts, Twists and Travelers are right, + etc. + + 3. How to pack Yarn closely on the Bobbin. + + 4. To see that your Thread Guides are + + 5. About Spindles, Rings, and Steel Rolls. + + 6. How Top Rolls should be kept in order to make good yarn weight + on top rolls, etc. + + 7. Bands; how they should be run, etc. + + 8. What to do when you have long staple Cotton. + + 9. What Twists should be in the hank roving, and why. + + 10. How Roving should be when run double, and how to get it + single. + + 11. How to run colored Roving double on spinning frames. + + 12. How Waste should be run through the lappers, etc. + + 13. How to prove that uneven work is not made on Spinning Frames. + + 14. How bunches can be made on Spinning Frames and Spoolers. + + 15. How coarse threads are made. + + 16. Caution to be observed in changing from one number of yarn to + another. + + 17. What to do when Cotton is poor. + + 18. Why it is cheaper for the Company to wind the yarn hard on the + bobbins and spools. + + 19. If yarn is knitted, where the trouble is. + + 20. How snarled yarn is made, etc. + + 21. How to avoid making lap waste in spinning room. + + 22. How to avoid making roving waste in spinning room. + + 23. When wastes should be picked up. + + 24. What the draught change gear should be, when you run colored + work. + + 25. System in doffing the frames and gauge to go by. + + 26. How to get speed of cylinder and spindles. + + 27. To know what pulley will drive your cylinder faster or slower. + + 28. How to take up a belt or let it out, when you change pulleys. + + 29. Rule for finding what number of twists to the inch for any + number of yarn. + + 30. Square Root of numbers, from 18 to 30, with twist. + + 31. The rule for finding the draught for any number of yarn. + + 32. The gear required to run another number on the same hank + roving. + + 33. The hank roving required to run another number of yarn with + same draught. + + 34. Rule to find the draught change gear required, when changing + from one number to another on a frame or mule, when the + draught and roving both have to be altered. + + 35. How to find the twist gear by square root of the number. + + 36. How to get twist pulley for another number of yarn. + + 37. How to get the exact twist in yarn. + + 38. How to get the weight on top rolls. + + 39. Square Root table for the twist of yarn. +$/ + + + + +INSTRUCTION BOOK. + + +THE FIRST THING. + +1. The first thing to do when going into a strange room to take +charge, is to learn the names and dispositions of your help, and their +ability. By doing this it will save you some trouble. Do not turn off +help the first day you go into a room to take charge. Get the good +will of your help and keep them; and when they learn your ways and +know you mean just what you say, every thing will be pleasant for them +and you also. + + +DRAUGHTS, TWISTS AND TRAVELERS. + +2. To see that your Draughts, Twists and Travelers are right for the +numbers of yarns you are spinning. Travelers govern the twist. When +the bobbins are full there is more twist in than when it first starts. +Have them heavy enough to keep the ends straight. If Travelers are +poor the work will run bad. Change them on fine work once in three or +four months, clean them every doff, and touch the ring with a little +oily waste. If Draught gears bind, spinners cannot keep their ends +up. + + +PACKING YARN ON BOBBINS. + +3. To see that the yarn is packed closely on the bobbin. The way to +tell is to put an empty bobbin on, and run one layer of yarn upon it; +if the threads do not lay close together, run your motion slower. In +this way you get more length of yarn to the bobbin. + + +THREAD GUIDES. + +4. To see that your thread guides are central with the bobbin below. +If a crease has been made by the thread running through it, take it +out and put in a new one. + + +SPINDLES. + +5. To see that the spindles are in the center of the rings, and that +your rings are in good condition. A poor ring will make two-thirds +more waste than a good one, and the frame requires three times the +cleaning that it does with a good ring. Slip your finger round inside +of the ring; if it feels notchy the ring is poor. Take it out. Rings +should be looked over every time you scour. That should be every six +months. Steel rolls should be rubbed with one-twenty emery cloth once +a year, with a little oil. + + +TOP ROLLS. + +6. See that your top rolls are kept in good condition. Look them all +over once a month if that will do, if not look them over oftener. New +rolls should always be put in the front, poorest ones in the back. New +rolls should always be calipered at each end; if they do not caliper +the same at each end of the roll, the roll should not be used, as it +would spoil the yarn, and spinners could not keep up their ends. New +rolls should be oiled when they are put in to run. Neck of front rolls +should be oiled morning and noon. All of the rolls should be oiled +once a week. The weight should be the same on all top rolls. In order +to do this your saddles must be all alike, and must not hug the neck +of the roll. Stirrups should be all of the same length and style. The +levers should be all of the same length and style; and weights should +be all of the same heft. Stirrups must clear the rolls, and use double +saddles. Shell rolls should be cleaned and oiled once a month, with +lard oil. Use vinegar with one-third water to clean top rolls. Roller +hooks should not be used on steel rolls. + + +CARRYING. + +7. A small band carrying one spindle is better than a large band +carrying a number of spindles. It makes better yarn, and not one-third +the waste. Bands should be put on tight; and the spinner should call +the band boy soon as one comes off, to put on a new one. Bands should +all be looked over once a week, and all slack ones cut off and new +ones put on. A slack band makes soft yarn. If your frame does not run +up to speed, you will get soft yarn. A dry spindle will also make soft +yarn. Keep your spindles properly oiled. + + +LONG STAPLE COTTON. + +8. For long staple cotton you must spread the bottom and top rolls a +little to avoid cockley yarn. Long staple cotton does not require so +much twist on spinning as short. + + +ROVING. + +9. Too much twist in roving makes bad yarn, and spoils the top rolls +on spinning frames. The square root of the number is about the twist +for roving. It gives the Carder a chance to keep up with the spinning, +and gives the Spinner a chance to make a better quality of yarn. If +there is too much twist in the roving, you cannot draw it on spinning +frames without spreading the rolls; but then it will spoil the top +rolls. Keep your numbers even if you can. Size from every fine speeder +and average it every day, and examine the yarn every time you size, to +see if it is good. By doing so it may save you considerable trouble. + + +TWO-ROVING. + +10. In running two-roving together, always have them of the same +hank, because if one is of one hank, and the other of another, there +will be more twist in one than in the other, and will not make as good +yarn, and will not draw as even as they would if they were of the same +twist or hank. To know what the two hanks would be single; you must +add the two hanks together, and divide that by four to get it single. + + +DOUBLE WORK. + +11. The way to run double work on spinning frames. Have the white put +in the top, if you have double creels; and colored work in the bottom. +Piece the back roving in the top with the back roving in the bottom. +Front in with front makes the yarn more even. + + +WASTE. + +12. Waste must be run through the lapper all by itself, not mix it +with the good cotton; and if one section of cards will run one lap a +day and keep the waste up, you may run one; if it makes two laps put +on two sections, (one lap on each section,) and the work or yarn will +be more even. + + +UNEVEN WORK. + +13. How to prove that uneven work is not made on spinning frames. See +that your draught gears do not bind; if they do, you will have uneven +yarn. Put in new rolls in front, middle and back. See that your frame +runs up to right speed and roller belt is tight. See that the rings +and travelers are good. See that stirrups and saddles are in place. +Then if your yarn is uneven the trouble is in the carding room. Roving +bobbins should be marked for each speeder; and the spinner run each +separate on his frames. Then if you had bad work you could tell very +quick which speeder it belonged to. + + +BUNCHES. + +14. How bunches can be made on spinning frames. By piecing on roving +and leaving the end to run through double. By piecing up ends and not +twisting on smoothly. By wiping out the roving rack and the waste +catching on the roving and running through the rolls. By wiping off +thread-boards, waste catching on to the ends and spinning. By rolls +not being kept clean and oiled. By spinners not being careful enough +when they clean their rolls. By spinners brushing and cleaning their +frames. By brushing down over head. By spinners not keeping their +clearers clean. The carder should be just as particular about making +his roving as the spinner is about making his yarn; then there will be +good work all through. A dry front roll will make bunches on spinning +frames, and will do the same on speeders. Sweepers should not blow +their waste under the frames. Bunches can be made on spoolers by +thread guides not being wide enough for the threads to pass through. +A bunch will collect and stop the spool. Spooler tenders lift it over +on to the spool. + + +COARSE THREADS. + +15. How coarse threads are made. First, by coarse roving; second by +spinners letting two roving run through the guide; third, by one end +catching on to another and running on to the bobbin; fourth, sometimes +where there is two ends on one boss, one end will break and catch onto +the other and spin. If the trouble is in the spinning, you untwist the +thread and you will find two threads instead of one. If not two +threads, the trouble is in the carding room. + + +CHANGING NUMBERS. + +16. When you change from one number to another see that the motion +runs right to pack the yarn closely on the bobbin; then have your +travelers just heavy enough to keep the ends straight. By running a +heavy traveler you pack the yarn harder on the bobbin. I do not +believe in running a traveler heavy enough to pull down the ends, but +heavy enough to keep the ends straight. + + +POOR COTTON. + +17. When cotton is poor you may need a little more twist in the yarn; +sometimes when cotton is poor, the warp spinning will run bad. In this +case you may run your warp one number heavier and mule filling one +number lighter. Waste work requires more twist than good cotton. + + +ECONOMY OF HEAVY TRAVELERS. + +18. It is cheaper for the company to run heavy travelers, and wind the +yarn hard on the bobbins and spools. You get more length of yarn and a +better quality. Will not cost so much for spooling. + + +KNITTED YARN. + +19. If the yarn is knitted the trouble is in the carding room, as you +cannot make knitted yarn on spinning frames. + + +SNARLED YARN. + +20. How snarled yarn is made. By spinners not finding the end and +breaking a thread on the bobbin to piece up by. By having the taper +shorter on top of the bobbin than on the bottom, so when the doffers +take the full bobbins off, the thread pulls over the top and snarls. +To avoid the above, lower the arm where it is attached to the frame, +(the arm that the heart rider is attached to). About one-quarter of an +inch will be enough. You want the taper longer at the top than at the +bottom. + + +LAP WASTE. + +21. How to avoid making lap waste in spinning room. By keeping +spinners where their work is, and by not giving spinners any more work +than they can keep up. By having good doffers and good starters. If +doffers and starters are not good they will make more waste than their +wages will come to. Doffers should wind the thread four times around +the bobbin. Starters should not wind on to bobbins when there is yarn +on to piece up by. + + +ROVING WASTE. + +22. How to avoid making roving waste in spinning room. By letting it +all run through the rolls into yarn. All bad roving should be sent +back into the carding room, where it belongs, every day. + + +PICKING UP WASTES. + +23. All wastes should be picked up, looked over, weighed and carried +off where it belongs, every day. You will find it much better than the +old way. Not so apt to accumulate. + + +COLORED WORK. + +24. Colored work always runs heavy. You want one tooth less draught +change gear than your hank roving figures for. But put in the same +twist. + + +DOFFING. + +25. System in doffing the frames. To save making waste and trouble in +the room, doff every other row right through, then go back and doff +the remaining rows through. In doffing this way the spinners can tend +more sides and not make so much waste, as any spinner knows, or ought +to know. Frames run better when half full than on an empty bobbin. One +frame stopped at a time to doff, is all that ought to be permitted. +From three to four minutes is long enough time to doff any frame with +four doffers. The first frame should be filled to a gauge astride the +bobbin. Do not go by the clock, as the yarn is sometimes heavy. This +gauge is the best guide I ever had in doffing. + + +SPEED OF CYLINDER. + +26. How to get speed of cylinder. See what main line runs; then get +diameter of counter pulley that carries the cylinder below. The pulley +above is called a driver. Then multiply the speed of main line by +diameter of counter pulley that carries the cylinder, and divide that +by the diameter of the pulley that is on the cylinder, which is called +the driven. Then to get speed of spindles, get diameter of cylinder, +and multiply the speed of cylinder by diameter of cylinder, and +divide that by the diameter of the whorl. + + +SPEEDING PULLEYS. + +27. To know what pulley will drive your cylinder faster or slower. +Multiply the speed you would like to have it run, by diameter of +pulley overhead, that carries the cylinder, and divide that by the +speed you are now running. Will give you pulley required. + + +TAKING UP BELTS. + +28. To know how to take up a belt, when you change pulleys. If your +belt is tight enough with the pulley you now have on, for every inch +that your pulley is smaller than you now have on, take out one inch +and three-quarters of belting. If larger, right the reverse. + + +TWISTS. + +29. To know what number of twists to the inch, for any number of yarn. +On warp, multiply the square root of the number by 5. Frame filling by +4, and mule filling by 3-¼. For every ten numbers below thirty take +away two twist to the inch. For every ten numbers above thirty, add +two. + + +SQUARE ROOT. + +30. Square Root of numbers from 18 to 30.--These twists are within a +fraction. + +/$ + +---------+---------+---------------+----------------+ + | NUMBERS | SQ ROOT | Warp Twist | Filling Twist | + +---------+---------+---------------+----------------+ + | 13 | 3.605 | 15 per inch | 11-½ per inch. | + | 14 | 3.741 | 15-½ " " | 12 " " | + | 18 | 4.242 | 19 " " | 15 " " | + | 19 | 4.359 | 19-½ " " | 15 " " | + | 20 | 4.472 | 20-½ " " | 15-½ " " | + | 21 | 4.582 | 21 " " | 16 " " | + | 22 | 4.690 | 21-½ " " | 16-½ " " | + | 23 | 4.796 | 22 " " | 17 " " | + | 24 | 4.899 | 22-½ " " | | + | 25 | 5.000 | 24 " " | 19 " " | + | 26 | 5.099 | 24-½ " " | | + | 27 | 5.196 | 25 " " | 19-¾ " " | + | 28 | 5.291 | 25-½ " " | 21 " " | + | 29 | 5.385 | 26 " " | | + | 30 | 5.477 | 27-½ " " | 22 " " | + +---------+---------+---------------+----------------+ +$/ + + +DRAUGHT FOR YARN. + +31. To know the draught for any number of yarn. Write the number you +are spinning or want to spin, add two ciphers to it; divide that by +the hank roving that you are spinning from, to get draught. Example; +hank roving 225, No. yarn 18. Add two ciphers, (1800); divided by 225 +gives 8 draught. + + +GEAR REQUIRED. + +32. This is the way I was taught to figure draughts of different +numbers of yarn. If you want to run another number with the same hank +roving, multiply the smallest draught change gear by the number you +are spinning, and divide that by the number you want to spin, and that +will give you the gear required. + + +ROVING REQUIRED. + +33. If you want to spin another number with same draught, write your +number that you want to spin (as above) and divide that by the +draught. That will give you hank roving required. + + +TO FIND DRAUGHT CHANGE GEAR. + +34. Rule to find the draught change gear required. When you change +from one number to another on a frame or mule, when the draught and +roving both have to be changed, multiply the number of the yarn being +spun by the hank roving desired, and that product by the number of +teeth in the draught change gear; using that for a dividend. Then +multiply the number of the yarn desired by the hank roving, using that +for a divisor; that product divided will tell the draught change gear +that is required. + + +TWIST GEAR. + +35. The way I was taught to find the twist gear by square root of the +number of yarn. Multiply the twist gear in use by the square root of +the number being spun, and divide that product by the square root of +the number you want to spin. That will give you the twist gear +required. + + +TWIST PULLEY. + +36. To get the twist pulley for another number of yarn. See what twist +the pulley gives that you have on, and multiply the twist that you +have in, by the pulley that is on, and divide that product by the +twist you would like to put in to get the pulley required. + + +TWIST OF YARN. + +37. To know how to get the exact twist in yarn. Have your roll belt +tight, and band also. Count the revolutions of the spindle to the +rollers once. Divide that by the circumference of the roll, which is +3-14/100 inches. Example. Say 86 turns to the rolls once. (3-14/100) +86.00 turns, (27-38/100) twists to the inch. + + +WEIGHT ON TOP ROLLS. + +38. To know the weight on top rolls. You must measure the distance +from where the stirrup is attached to the lever to where the wire is +attached that holds the weight; then multiply the distance by whatever +the weight weighs, and divide that product by the exact distance from +where the lever is attached to the set screw, to where the stirrup is +attached. + + +SQUARE ROOT TABLE FOR THE TWIST OF YARNS. + +39 + +/$ + +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+ + | No. of | Square | No. of | Square | No. of | Square | + | Yarn | Root | Yarn | Root | Yarn | Root | + +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+ + | 1 | 1.000 | 31 | 5.567 | 61 | 7.810 | + | 2 | 1.414 | 32 | 5.656 | 62 | 7.874 | + | 3 | 1.732 | 33 | 5.744 | 63 | 7.937 | + | 4 | 2.000 | 34 | 5.830 | 64 | 8.000 | + | 5 | 2.236 | 35 | 5.916 | 65 | 8.062 | + | 6 | 2.449 | 36 | 6.000 | 66 | 8.124 | + | 7 | 2.645 | 37 | 6.082 | 67 | 8.185 | + | 8 | 2.828 | 38 | 6.164 | 68 | 8.246 | + | 9 | 3.000 | 39 | 6.244 | 69 | 8.306 | + | 10 | 3.162 | 40 | 6.324 | 70 | 8.366 | + | 11 | 3.316 | 41 | 6.403 | 71 | 8.426 | + | 12 | 3.464 | 42 | 6.480 | 72 | 8.485 | + | 13 | 3.605 | 43 | 6.557 | 73 | 8.544 | + | 14 | 3.741 | 44 | 6.633 | 74 | 8.602 | + | 15 | 3.872 | 45 | 6.708 | 75 | 8.660 | + | 16 | 4.000 | 46 | 6.782 | 76 | 8.717 | + | 17 | 4.123 | 47 | 6.855 | 77 | 8.774 | + | 18 | 4.242 | 48 | 6.928 | 78 | 8.831 | + | 19 | 4.358 | 49 | 7.000 | 79 | 8.888 | + | 20 | 4.472 | 50 | 7.071 | 80 | 8.944 | + | 21 | 4.582 | 51 | 7.141 | 81 | 9.000 | + | 22 | 4.690 | 52 | 7.211 | 82 | 9.055 | + | 23 | 4.795 | 53 | 7.280 | 83 | 9.110 | + | 24 | 4.898 | 54 | 7.348 | 84 | 9.165 | + | 25 | 5.000 | 55 | 7.416 | 85 | 9.219 | + | 26 | 5.099 | 56 | 7.483 | 86 | 9.273 | + | 27 | 5.196 | 57 | 7.549 | 87 | 9.327 | + | 28 | 5.291 | 58 | 7.615 | 88 | 9.380 | + | 29 | 5.385 | 59 | 7.681 | 89 | 9.433 | + | 30 | 5.477 | 60 | 7.745 | 90 | 9.486 | + +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+ +$/ + + +==> If any Spinner purchasing this book has trouble with his work, he +will receive aid from me (if in my power) by stating all particulars. + +All orders for this book should be addressed to Francis L. Lincoln, +P.O. Box 35, Warren, Mass. + +PRICE ONE DOLLAR. + + * * * * * + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Instruction book on ring spinning, by +Francis L. Lincoln + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INSTRUCTION BOOK ON RING SPINNING *** + +***** This file should be named 33424-8.txt or 33424-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/4/2/33424/ + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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