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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/33424-8.txt b/33424-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ef2a3e --- /dev/null +++ b/33424-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1009 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Instruction book on ring spinning, by Francis L. Lincoln + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Instruction book on ring spinning + +Author: Francis L. Lincoln + +Release Date: August 13, 2010 [EBook #33424] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INSTRUCTION BOOK ON RING SPINNING *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + +/$ +INSTRUCTION BOOK + +ON + +RING SPINNING + +BY + +FRANCIS L. LINCOLN. + + + + +WARREN, MASS. +HERALD PRINTING COMPANY. +1885. +$/ + + + + +/$ +Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1885, +By FRANCIS L. LINCOLN, +In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. +$/ + + + + +PREFACE. + + +The object of this little book is to give help and instruction to +those who are engaged in this department of mill work. It imparts that +knowledge which only years of thorough study and observation can give. +It has been carefully prepared by an experienced Spinner, who has +given years of study to it, in order to benefit and help those who are +interested in the Spinning department. + +/$ + FRANCIS L. LINCOLN, Author. +$/ + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +/$ + 1. The First Thing to do when going into a strange room to take + charge. + + 2. To see that your Draughts, Twists and Travelers are right, + etc. + + 3. How to pack Yarn closely on the Bobbin. + + 4. To see that your Thread Guides are + + 5. About Spindles, Rings, and Steel Rolls. + + 6. How Top Rolls should be kept in order to make good yarn weight + on top rolls, etc. + + 7. Bands; how they should be run, etc. + + 8. What to do when you have long staple Cotton. + + 9. What Twists should be in the hank roving, and why. + + 10. How Roving should be when run double, and how to get it + single. + + 11. How to run colored Roving double on spinning frames. + + 12. How Waste should be run through the lappers, etc. + + 13. How to prove that uneven work is not made on Spinning Frames. + + 14. How bunches can be made on Spinning Frames and Spoolers. + + 15. How coarse threads are made. + + 16. Caution to be observed in changing from one number of yarn to + another. + + 17. What to do when Cotton is poor. + + 18. Why it is cheaper for the Company to wind the yarn hard on the + bobbins and spools. + + 19. If yarn is knitted, where the trouble is. + + 20. How snarled yarn is made, etc. + + 21. How to avoid making lap waste in spinning room. + + 22. How to avoid making roving waste in spinning room. + + 23. When wastes should be picked up. + + 24. What the draught change gear should be, when you run colored + work. + + 25. System in doffing the frames and gauge to go by. + + 26. How to get speed of cylinder and spindles. + + 27. To know what pulley will drive your cylinder faster or slower. + + 28. How to take up a belt or let it out, when you change pulleys. + + 29. Rule for finding what number of twists to the inch for any + number of yarn. + + 30. Square Root of numbers, from 18 to 30, with twist. + + 31. The rule for finding the draught for any number of yarn. + + 32. The gear required to run another number on the same hank + roving. + + 33. The hank roving required to run another number of yarn with + same draught. + + 34. Rule to find the draught change gear required, when changing + from one number to another on a frame or mule, when the + draught and roving both have to be altered. + + 35. How to find the twist gear by square root of the number. + + 36. How to get twist pulley for another number of yarn. + + 37. How to get the exact twist in yarn. + + 38. How to get the weight on top rolls. + + 39. Square Root table for the twist of yarn. +$/ + + + + +INSTRUCTION BOOK. + + +THE FIRST THING. + +1. The first thing to do when going into a strange room to take +charge, is to learn the names and dispositions of your help, and their +ability. By doing this it will save you some trouble. Do not turn off +help the first day you go into a room to take charge. Get the good +will of your help and keep them; and when they learn your ways and +know you mean just what you say, every thing will be pleasant for them +and you also. + + +DRAUGHTS, TWISTS AND TRAVELERS. + +2. To see that your Draughts, Twists and Travelers are right for the +numbers of yarns you are spinning. Travelers govern the twist. When +the bobbins are full there is more twist in than when it first starts. +Have them heavy enough to keep the ends straight. If Travelers are +poor the work will run bad. Change them on fine work once in three or +four months, clean them every doff, and touch the ring with a little +oily waste. If Draught gears bind, spinners cannot keep their ends +up. + + +PACKING YARN ON BOBBINS. + +3. To see that the yarn is packed closely on the bobbin. The way to +tell is to put an empty bobbin on, and run one layer of yarn upon it; +if the threads do not lay close together, run your motion slower. In +this way you get more length of yarn to the bobbin. + + +THREAD GUIDES. + +4. To see that your thread guides are central with the bobbin below. +If a crease has been made by the thread running through it, take it +out and put in a new one. + + +SPINDLES. + +5. To see that the spindles are in the center of the rings, and that +your rings are in good condition. A poor ring will make two-thirds +more waste than a good one, and the frame requires three times the +cleaning that it does with a good ring. Slip your finger round inside +of the ring; if it feels notchy the ring is poor. Take it out. Rings +should be looked over every time you scour. That should be every six +months. Steel rolls should be rubbed with one-twenty emery cloth once +a year, with a little oil. + + +TOP ROLLS. + +6. See that your top rolls are kept in good condition. Look them all +over once a month if that will do, if not look them over oftener. New +rolls should always be put in the front, poorest ones in the back. New +rolls should always be calipered at each end; if they do not caliper +the same at each end of the roll, the roll should not be used, as it +would spoil the yarn, and spinners could not keep up their ends. New +rolls should be oiled when they are put in to run. Neck of front rolls +should be oiled morning and noon. All of the rolls should be oiled +once a week. The weight should be the same on all top rolls. In order +to do this your saddles must be all alike, and must not hug the neck +of the roll. Stirrups should be all of the same length and style. The +levers should be all of the same length and style; and weights should +be all of the same heft. Stirrups must clear the rolls, and use double +saddles. Shell rolls should be cleaned and oiled once a month, with +lard oil. Use vinegar with one-third water to clean top rolls. Roller +hooks should not be used on steel rolls. + + +CARRYING. + +7. A small band carrying one spindle is better than a large band +carrying a number of spindles. It makes better yarn, and not one-third +the waste. Bands should be put on tight; and the spinner should call +the band boy soon as one comes off, to put on a new one. Bands should +all be looked over once a week, and all slack ones cut off and new +ones put on. A slack band makes soft yarn. If your frame does not run +up to speed, you will get soft yarn. A dry spindle will also make soft +yarn. Keep your spindles properly oiled. + + +LONG STAPLE COTTON. + +8. For long staple cotton you must spread the bottom and top rolls a +little to avoid cockley yarn. Long staple cotton does not require so +much twist on spinning as short. + + +ROVING. + +9. Too much twist in roving makes bad yarn, and spoils the top rolls +on spinning frames. The square root of the number is about the twist +for roving. It gives the Carder a chance to keep up with the spinning, +and gives the Spinner a chance to make a better quality of yarn. If +there is too much twist in the roving, you cannot draw it on spinning +frames without spreading the rolls; but then it will spoil the top +rolls. Keep your numbers even if you can. Size from every fine speeder +and average it every day, and examine the yarn every time you size, to +see if it is good. By doing so it may save you considerable trouble. + + +TWO-ROVING. + +10. In running two-roving together, always have them of the same +hank, because if one is of one hank, and the other of another, there +will be more twist in one than in the other, and will not make as good +yarn, and will not draw as even as they would if they were of the same +twist or hank. To know what the two hanks would be single; you must +add the two hanks together, and divide that by four to get it single. + + +DOUBLE WORK. + +11. The way to run double work on spinning frames. Have the white put +in the top, if you have double creels; and colored work in the bottom. +Piece the back roving in the top with the back roving in the bottom. +Front in with front makes the yarn more even. + + +WASTE. + +12. Waste must be run through the lapper all by itself, not mix it +with the good cotton; and if one section of cards will run one lap a +day and keep the waste up, you may run one; if it makes two laps put +on two sections, (one lap on each section,) and the work or yarn will +be more even. + + +UNEVEN WORK. + +13. How to prove that uneven work is not made on spinning frames. See +that your draught gears do not bind; if they do, you will have uneven +yarn. Put in new rolls in front, middle and back. See that your frame +runs up to right speed and roller belt is tight. See that the rings +and travelers are good. See that stirrups and saddles are in place. +Then if your yarn is uneven the trouble is in the carding room. Roving +bobbins should be marked for each speeder; and the spinner run each +separate on his frames. Then if you had bad work you could tell very +quick which speeder it belonged to. + + +BUNCHES. + +14. How bunches can be made on spinning frames. By piecing on roving +and leaving the end to run through double. By piecing up ends and not +twisting on smoothly. By wiping out the roving rack and the waste +catching on the roving and running through the rolls. By wiping off +thread-boards, waste catching on to the ends and spinning. By rolls +not being kept clean and oiled. By spinners not being careful enough +when they clean their rolls. By spinners brushing and cleaning their +frames. By brushing down over head. By spinners not keeping their +clearers clean. The carder should be just as particular about making +his roving as the spinner is about making his yarn; then there will be +good work all through. A dry front roll will make bunches on spinning +frames, and will do the same on speeders. Sweepers should not blow +their waste under the frames. Bunches can be made on spoolers by +thread guides not being wide enough for the threads to pass through. +A bunch will collect and stop the spool. Spooler tenders lift it over +on to the spool. + + +COARSE THREADS. + +15. How coarse threads are made. First, by coarse roving; second by +spinners letting two roving run through the guide; third, by one end +catching on to another and running on to the bobbin; fourth, sometimes +where there is two ends on one boss, one end will break and catch onto +the other and spin. If the trouble is in the spinning, you untwist the +thread and you will find two threads instead of one. If not two +threads, the trouble is in the carding room. + + +CHANGING NUMBERS. + +16. When you change from one number to another see that the motion +runs right to pack the yarn closely on the bobbin; then have your +travelers just heavy enough to keep the ends straight. By running a +heavy traveler you pack the yarn harder on the bobbin. I do not +believe in running a traveler heavy enough to pull down the ends, but +heavy enough to keep the ends straight. + + +POOR COTTON. + +17. When cotton is poor you may need a little more twist in the yarn; +sometimes when cotton is poor, the warp spinning will run bad. In this +case you may run your warp one number heavier and mule filling one +number lighter. Waste work requires more twist than good cotton. + + +ECONOMY OF HEAVY TRAVELERS. + +18. It is cheaper for the company to run heavy travelers, and wind the +yarn hard on the bobbins and spools. You get more length of yarn and a +better quality. Will not cost so much for spooling. + + +KNITTED YARN. + +19. If the yarn is knitted the trouble is in the carding room, as you +cannot make knitted yarn on spinning frames. + + +SNARLED YARN. + +20. How snarled yarn is made. By spinners not finding the end and +breaking a thread on the bobbin to piece up by. By having the taper +shorter on top of the bobbin than on the bottom, so when the doffers +take the full bobbins off, the thread pulls over the top and snarls. +To avoid the above, lower the arm where it is attached to the frame, +(the arm that the heart rider is attached to). About one-quarter of an +inch will be enough. You want the taper longer at the top than at the +bottom. + + +LAP WASTE. + +21. How to avoid making lap waste in spinning room. By keeping +spinners where their work is, and by not giving spinners any more work +than they can keep up. By having good doffers and good starters. If +doffers and starters are not good they will make more waste than their +wages will come to. Doffers should wind the thread four times around +the bobbin. Starters should not wind on to bobbins when there is yarn +on to piece up by. + + +ROVING WASTE. + +22. How to avoid making roving waste in spinning room. By letting it +all run through the rolls into yarn. All bad roving should be sent +back into the carding room, where it belongs, every day. + + +PICKING UP WASTES. + +23. All wastes should be picked up, looked over, weighed and carried +off where it belongs, every day. You will find it much better than the +old way. Not so apt to accumulate. + + +COLORED WORK. + +24. Colored work always runs heavy. You want one tooth less draught +change gear than your hank roving figures for. But put in the same +twist. + + +DOFFING. + +25. System in doffing the frames. To save making waste and trouble in +the room, doff every other row right through, then go back and doff +the remaining rows through. In doffing this way the spinners can tend +more sides and not make so much waste, as any spinner knows, or ought +to know. Frames run better when half full than on an empty bobbin. One +frame stopped at a time to doff, is all that ought to be permitted. +From three to four minutes is long enough time to doff any frame with +four doffers. The first frame should be filled to a gauge astride the +bobbin. Do not go by the clock, as the yarn is sometimes heavy. This +gauge is the best guide I ever had in doffing. + + +SPEED OF CYLINDER. + +26. How to get speed of cylinder. See what main line runs; then get +diameter of counter pulley that carries the cylinder below. The pulley +above is called a driver. Then multiply the speed of main line by +diameter of counter pulley that carries the cylinder, and divide that +by the diameter of the pulley that is on the cylinder, which is called +the driven. Then to get speed of spindles, get diameter of cylinder, +and multiply the speed of cylinder by diameter of cylinder, and +divide that by the diameter of the whorl. + + +SPEEDING PULLEYS. + +27. To know what pulley will drive your cylinder faster or slower. +Multiply the speed you would like to have it run, by diameter of +pulley overhead, that carries the cylinder, and divide that by the +speed you are now running. Will give you pulley required. + + +TAKING UP BELTS. + +28. To know how to take up a belt, when you change pulleys. If your +belt is tight enough with the pulley you now have on, for every inch +that your pulley is smaller than you now have on, take out one inch +and three-quarters of belting. If larger, right the reverse. + + +TWISTS. + +29. To know what number of twists to the inch, for any number of yarn. +On warp, multiply the square root of the number by 5. Frame filling by +4, and mule filling by 3-¼. For every ten numbers below thirty take +away two twist to the inch. For every ten numbers above thirty, add +two. + + +SQUARE ROOT. + +30. Square Root of numbers from 18 to 30.--These twists are within a +fraction. + +/$ + +---------+---------+---------------+----------------+ + | NUMBERS | SQ ROOT | Warp Twist | Filling Twist | + +---------+---------+---------------+----------------+ + | 13 | 3.605 | 15 per inch | 11-½ per inch. | + | 14 | 3.741 | 15-½ " " | 12 " " | + | 18 | 4.242 | 19 " " | 15 " " | + | 19 | 4.359 | 19-½ " " | 15 " " | + | 20 | 4.472 | 20-½ " " | 15-½ " " | + | 21 | 4.582 | 21 " " | 16 " " | + | 22 | 4.690 | 21-½ " " | 16-½ " " | + | 23 | 4.796 | 22 " " | 17 " " | + | 24 | 4.899 | 22-½ " " | | + | 25 | 5.000 | 24 " " | 19 " " | + | 26 | 5.099 | 24-½ " " | | + | 27 | 5.196 | 25 " " | 19-¾ " " | + | 28 | 5.291 | 25-½ " " | 21 " " | + | 29 | 5.385 | 26 " " | | + | 30 | 5.477 | 27-½ " " | 22 " " | + +---------+---------+---------------+----------------+ +$/ + + +DRAUGHT FOR YARN. + +31. To know the draught for any number of yarn. Write the number you +are spinning or want to spin, add two ciphers to it; divide that by +the hank roving that you are spinning from, to get draught. Example; +hank roving 225, No. yarn 18. Add two ciphers, (1800); divided by 225 +gives 8 draught. + + +GEAR REQUIRED. + +32. This is the way I was taught to figure draughts of different +numbers of yarn. If you want to run another number with the same hank +roving, multiply the smallest draught change gear by the number you +are spinning, and divide that by the number you want to spin, and that +will give you the gear required. + + +ROVING REQUIRED. + +33. If you want to spin another number with same draught, write your +number that you want to spin (as above) and divide that by the +draught. That will give you hank roving required. + + +TO FIND DRAUGHT CHANGE GEAR. + +34. Rule to find the draught change gear required. When you change +from one number to another on a frame or mule, when the draught and +roving both have to be changed, multiply the number of the yarn being +spun by the hank roving desired, and that product by the number of +teeth in the draught change gear; using that for a dividend. Then +multiply the number of the yarn desired by the hank roving, using that +for a divisor; that product divided will tell the draught change gear +that is required. + + +TWIST GEAR. + +35. The way I was taught to find the twist gear by square root of the +number of yarn. Multiply the twist gear in use by the square root of +the number being spun, and divide that product by the square root of +the number you want to spin. That will give you the twist gear +required. + + +TWIST PULLEY. + +36. To get the twist pulley for another number of yarn. See what twist +the pulley gives that you have on, and multiply the twist that you +have in, by the pulley that is on, and divide that product by the +twist you would like to put in to get the pulley required. + + +TWIST OF YARN. + +37. To know how to get the exact twist in yarn. Have your roll belt +tight, and band also. Count the revolutions of the spindle to the +rollers once. Divide that by the circumference of the roll, which is +3-14/100 inches. Example. Say 86 turns to the rolls once. (3-14/100) +86.00 turns, (27-38/100) twists to the inch. + + +WEIGHT ON TOP ROLLS. + +38. To know the weight on top rolls. You must measure the distance +from where the stirrup is attached to the lever to where the wire is +attached that holds the weight; then multiply the distance by whatever +the weight weighs, and divide that product by the exact distance from +where the lever is attached to the set screw, to where the stirrup is +attached. + + +SQUARE ROOT TABLE FOR THE TWIST OF YARNS. + +39 + +/$ + +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+ + | No. of | Square | No. of | Square | No. of | Square | + | Yarn | Root | Yarn | Root | Yarn | Root | + +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+ + | 1 | 1.000 | 31 | 5.567 | 61 | 7.810 | + | 2 | 1.414 | 32 | 5.656 | 62 | 7.874 | + | 3 | 1.732 | 33 | 5.744 | 63 | 7.937 | + | 4 | 2.000 | 34 | 5.830 | 64 | 8.000 | + | 5 | 2.236 | 35 | 5.916 | 65 | 8.062 | + | 6 | 2.449 | 36 | 6.000 | 66 | 8.124 | + | 7 | 2.645 | 37 | 6.082 | 67 | 8.185 | + | 8 | 2.828 | 38 | 6.164 | 68 | 8.246 | + | 9 | 3.000 | 39 | 6.244 | 69 | 8.306 | + | 10 | 3.162 | 40 | 6.324 | 70 | 8.366 | + | 11 | 3.316 | 41 | 6.403 | 71 | 8.426 | + | 12 | 3.464 | 42 | 6.480 | 72 | 8.485 | + | 13 | 3.605 | 43 | 6.557 | 73 | 8.544 | + | 14 | 3.741 | 44 | 6.633 | 74 | 8.602 | + | 15 | 3.872 | 45 | 6.708 | 75 | 8.660 | + | 16 | 4.000 | 46 | 6.782 | 76 | 8.717 | + | 17 | 4.123 | 47 | 6.855 | 77 | 8.774 | + | 18 | 4.242 | 48 | 6.928 | 78 | 8.831 | + | 19 | 4.358 | 49 | 7.000 | 79 | 8.888 | + | 20 | 4.472 | 50 | 7.071 | 80 | 8.944 | + | 21 | 4.582 | 51 | 7.141 | 81 | 9.000 | + | 22 | 4.690 | 52 | 7.211 | 82 | 9.055 | + | 23 | 4.795 | 53 | 7.280 | 83 | 9.110 | + | 24 | 4.898 | 54 | 7.348 | 84 | 9.165 | + | 25 | 5.000 | 55 | 7.416 | 85 | 9.219 | + | 26 | 5.099 | 56 | 7.483 | 86 | 9.273 | + | 27 | 5.196 | 57 | 7.549 | 87 | 9.327 | + | 28 | 5.291 | 58 | 7.615 | 88 | 9.380 | + | 29 | 5.385 | 59 | 7.681 | 89 | 9.433 | + | 30 | 5.477 | 60 | 7.745 | 90 | 9.486 | + +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+ +$/ + + +==> If any Spinner purchasing this book has trouble with his work, he +will receive aid from me (if in my power) by stating all particulars. + +All orders for this book should be addressed to Francis L. Lincoln, +P.O. Box 35, Warren, Mass. + +PRICE ONE DOLLAR. + + * * * * * + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Instruction book on ring spinning, by +Francis L. Lincoln + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INSTRUCTION BOOK ON RING SPINNING *** + +***** This file should be named 33424-8.txt or 33424-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/4/2/33424/ + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Lincoln.. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + p { margin-top: .5em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .5em; + text-indent: 1em; + } + h1 { + text-align: center; font-family: garamond, serif; /* all headings centered */ + } + h5,h6 { + text-align: center; font-family: garamond, serif; /* all headings centered */ + } + h2 { + text-align: center; font-family: garamond, serif; /* all headings centered */ + } + h3 { + text-align: center; font-family: garamond, serif; /* all headings centered */ + } + h4 { + text-align: center; font-family: garamond, serif; /* all headings centered */ + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + body{margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + } + a {text-decoration: none} /* no lines under links */ + div.centered {text-align: center;} /* work around for IE centering with CSS problem part 1 */ + div.centered table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;} /* work around for IE centering with CSS problem part 2 */ + + .cen {text-align: center; text-indent: 0em;} /* centering paragraphs */ + .sc {font-variant: small-caps;} /* small caps */ + .noin {text-indent: 0em;} /* no indenting */ + .right {text-align: right; padding-right: 2em;} /* right aligning paragraphs */ + .totoc {position: absolute; right: 2%; font-size: 75%; text-align: right;} /* Table of contents anchor */ + .img {text-align: center; padding: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} /* centering images */ + .tdr {text-align: right; padding-right: .5em; vertical-align: top;} /* right align cell */ + .tdc {text-align: center;} /* center align cell */ + .tdl {text-align: left;} /* left align cell */ + .tdrbt {text-align: right; padding-right: .5em; border-top: solid black 1px;} /* right align cell */ + .tdcbt {text-align: center; border-top: solid black 1px;} /* center align cell */ + .tdlbt {text-align: left; border-top: solid black 1px;} /* left align cell */ + .tdlsc {text-align: left; font-variant: small-caps;} /* aligning cell content and small caps */ + .tdrsc {text-align: right; font-variant: small-caps;} /* aligning cell content and small caps */ + .tdcsc {text-align: center; font-variant: small-caps;} /* aligning cell content and small caps */ + .tr {margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; margin-top: 5%; margin-bottom: 5%; padding: 1em; background-color: #f6f2f2; color: black; border: dotted black 1px;} /* transcriber's notes */ + + .bb {border-bottom: solid black 1px;} + .bl {border-left: solid black 1px;} + .blb {border-left: solid black 1px; border-bottom: solid black 1px;} + .bt {border-top: solid black 1px;} + .br {border-right: solid black 1px;} + .box {border: solid black 1px;} + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; right: 2%; + font-size: 75%; + color: gray; + background-color: inherit; + text-align: right; + text-indent: 0em; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal;} /* page numbers */ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Instruction book on ring spinning, by Francis L. Lincoln + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Instruction book on ring spinning + +Author: Francis L. Lincoln + +Release Date: August 13, 2010 [EBook #33424] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INSTRUCTION BOOK ON RING SPINNING *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h2>INSTRUCTION BOOK</h2> + +<h4>ON</h4> + +<h1>RING SPINNING</h1> + +<h4>BY</h4> + +<h2>FRANCIS L. LINCOLN.</h2> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h5>WARREN, MASS.<br /> +HERALD PRINTING COMPANY.<br /> +1885.</h5> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h4>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1885,<br /> +By FRANCIS L. LINCOLN,<br /> +In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington.</h4> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> + +<h3>PREFACE.</h3> +<br /> + +<p>The object of this little book is to give help and instruction to +those who are engaged in this department of mill work. It imparts that +knowledge which only years of thorough study and observation can give. +It has been carefully prepared by an experienced Spinner, who has +given years of study to it, in order to benefit and help those who are +interested in the Spinning department.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="sc">Francis L. Lincoln</span>, Author.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<a name="toc" id="toc"></a><hr /> +<br /> + +<h3>CONTENTS.</h3> +<br /> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="70%" summary="Table of Contents"> + <tr> + <td class="tdr" width="10%">1.</td> + <td class="tdl" width="90%"><a href="#Section_1">The First Thing to do when going into a strange room to take charge.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">2.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_2">To see that your Draughts, Twists and Travelers are right, etc.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">3.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_3">How to pack Yarn closely on the Bobbin.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">4.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_4">To see that your Thread Guides are</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">5.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_5">About Spindles, Rings, and Steel Rolls.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">6.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_6">How Top Rolls should be kept in order to make good yarn weight on top rolls, etc.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">7.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_7">Bands; how they should be run, etc.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">8.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_8">What to do when you have long staple Cotton.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">9.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_9">What Twists should be in the hank roving, and why.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">10.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_10">How Roving should be when run double, and how to get it single.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">11.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_11">How to run colored Roving double on spinning frames.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">12.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_12">How Waste should be run through the lappers, etc.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">13.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_13">How to prove that uneven work is not made on Spinning Frames.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">14.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_14">How bunches can be made on Spinning Frames and Spoolers.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">15.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_15">How coarse threads are made.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">16.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_16">Caution to be observed in changing from one number of yarn to another.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">17.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_17">What to do when Cotton is poor.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">18.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_18">Why it is cheaper for the Company to wind the yarn hard on the bobbins and spools.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">19.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_19">If yarn is knitted, where the trouble is.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">20.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_20">How snarled yarn is made, etc.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">21.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_21">How to avoid making lap waste in spinning room.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">22.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_22">How to avoid making roving waste in spinning room.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">23.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_23">When wastes should be picked up.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">24.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_24">What the draught change gear should be, when you run colored work.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">25.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_25">System in doffing the frames and gauge to go by.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">26.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_26">How to get speed of cylinder and spindles.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">27.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_27">To know what pulley will drive your cylinder faster or slower.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">28.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_28">How to take up a belt or let it out, when you change pulleys.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">29.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_29">Rule for finding what number of twists to the inch for any number of yarn.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">30.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_30">Square Root of numbers, from 18 to 30, with twist.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">31.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_31">The rule for finding the draught for any number of yarn.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">32.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_32">The gear required to run another number on the same hank roving.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">33.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_33">The hank roving required to run another number of yarn with same draught.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">34.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_34">Rule to find the draught change gear required, when changing from one number to another on a frame or mule, when the draught and roving both have to be altered.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">35.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_35">How to find the twist gear by square root of the number.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">36.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_36">How to get twist pulley for another number of yarn.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">37.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_37">How to get the exact twist in yarn.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">38.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_38">How to get the weight on top rolls.</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">39.</td> + <td class="tdl"><a href="#Section_39">Square Root table for the twist of yarn.</a></td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span><br /> + +<h1 class="sc">Instruction Book.</h1> + +<a name="Section_1" id="Section_1"></a><br /> + +<h4>THE FIRST THING.</h4> + +<p>1. The first thing to do when going into a strange room to take +charge, is to learn the names and dispositions of your help, and their +ability. By doing this it will save you some trouble. Do not turn off +help the first day you go into a room to take charge. Get the good +will of your help and keep them; and when they learn your ways and +know you mean just what you say, every thing will be pleasant for them +and you also.</p> + +<a name="Section_2" id="Section_2"></a><br /> + +<h4>DRAUGHTS, TWISTS AND TRAVELERS.</h4> + +<p>2. To see that your Draughts, Twists and Travelers are right for the +numbers of yarns you are spinning. Travelers govern the twist. When +the bobbins are full there is more twist in than when it first starts. +Have them heavy enough to keep the ends straight. If Travelers are +poor the work will run bad. Change them on fine work once in three or +four months, clean them every doff, and touch the ring with a little +oily waste. If Draught gears bind, spinners cannot keep their ends +up.</p> + +<a name="Section_3" id="Section_3"></a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span><br /> + +<h4>PACKING YARN ON BOBBINS.</h4> + +<p>3. To see that the yarn is packed closely on the bobbin. The way to +tell is to put an empty bobbin on, and run one layer of yarn upon it; +if the threads do not lay close together, run your motion slower. In +this way you get more length of yarn to the bobbin.</p> + +<a name="Section_4" id="Section_4"></a><br /> + +<h4>THREAD GUIDES.</h4> + +<p>4. To see that your thread guides are central with the bobbin below. +If a crease has been made by the thread running through it, take it +out and put in a new one.</p> + +<a name="Section_5" id="Section_5"></a><br /> + +<h4>SPINDLES.</h4> + +<p>5. To see that the spindles are in the center of the rings, and that +your rings are in good condition. A poor ring will make two-thirds +more waste than a good one, and the frame requires three times the +cleaning that it does with a good ring. Slip your finger round inside +of the ring; if it feels notchy the ring is poor. Take it out. Rings +should be looked over every time you scour. That should be every six +months. Steel rolls should be rubbed with one-twenty emery cloth once +a year, with a little oil.</p> + +<a name="Section_6" id="Section_6"></a><br /> + +<h4>TOP ROLLS.</h4> + +<p>6. See that your top rolls are kept in good <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>condition. Look them all +over once a month if that will do, if not look them over oftener. New +rolls should always be put in the front, poorest ones in the back. New +rolls should always be calipered at each end; if they do not caliper +the same at each end of the roll, the roll should not be used, as it +would spoil the yarn, and spinners could not keep up their ends. New +rolls should be oiled when they are put in to run. Neck of front rolls +should be oiled morning and noon. All of the rolls should be oiled +once a week. The weight should be the same on all top rolls. In order +to do this your saddles must be all alike, and must not hug the neck +of the roll. Stirrups should be all of the same length and style. The +levers should be all of the same length and style; and weights should +be all of the same heft. Stirrups must clear the rolls, and use double +saddles. Shell rolls should be cleaned and oiled once a month, with +lard oil. Use vinegar with one-third water to clean top rolls. Roller +hooks should not be used on steel rolls.</p> + +<a name="Section_7" id="Section_7"></a><br /> + +<h4>CARRYING.</h4> + +<p>7. A small band carrying one spindle is better than a large band +carrying a number of spindles. It makes better yarn, and not one-third +the waste. Bands should be put on tight; and the spinner should call +the band boy soon as one comes off, to put on a new one. Bands should +all be looked over once a week, and all slack <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>ones cut off and new +ones put on. A slack band makes soft yarn. If your frame does not run +up to speed, you will get soft yarn. A dry spindle will also make soft +yarn. Keep your spindles properly oiled.</p> + +<a name="Section_8" id="Section_8"></a><br /> + +<h4>LONG STAPLE COTTON.</h4> + +<p>8. For long staple cotton you must spread the bottom and top rolls a +little to avoid cockley yarn. Long staple cotton does not require so +much twist on spinning as short.</p> + +<a name="Section_9" id="Section_9"></a><br /> + +<h4>ROVING.</h4> + +<p>9. Too much twist in roving makes bad yarn, and spoils the top rolls +on spinning frames. The square root of the number is about the twist +for roving. It gives the Carder a chance to keep up with the spinning, +and gives the Spinner a chance to make a better quality of yarn. If +there is too much twist in the roving, you cannot draw it on spinning +frames without spreading the rolls; but then it will spoil the top +rolls. Keep your numbers even if you can. Size from every fine speeder +and average it every day, and examine the yarn every time you size, to +see if it is good. By doing so it may save you considerable trouble.</p> + +<a name="Section_10" id="Section_10"></a><br /> + +<h4>TWO-ROVING.</h4> + +<p>10. In running two-roving together, always <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>have them of the same +hank, because if one is of one hank, and the other of another, there +will be more twist in one than in the other, and will not make as good +yarn, and will not draw as even as they would if they were of the same +twist or hank. To know what the two hanks would be single; you must +add the two hanks together, and divide that by four to get it single.</p> + +<a name="Section_11" id="Section_11"></a><br /> + +<h4>DOUBLE WORK.</h4> + +<p>11. The way to run double work on spinning frames. Have the white put +in the top, if you have double creels; and colored work in the bottom. +Piece the back roving in the top with the back roving in the bottom. +Front in with front makes the yarn more even.</p> + +<a name="Section_12" id="Section_12"></a><br /> + +<h4>WASTE.</h4> + +<p>12. Waste must be run through the lapper all by itself, not mix it +with the good cotton; and if one section of cards will run one lap a +day and keep the waste up, you may run one; if it makes two laps put +on two sections, (one lap on each section,) and the work or yarn will +be more even.</p> + +<a name="Section_13" id="Section_13"></a><br /> + +<h4>UNEVEN WORK.</h4> + +<p>13. How to prove that uneven work is not made on spinning frames. See +that your draught gears do not bind; if they do, you will have <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>uneven +yarn. Put in new rolls in front, middle and back. See that your frame +runs up to right speed and roller belt is tight. See that the rings +and travelers are good. See that stirrups and saddles are in place. +Then if your yarn is uneven the trouble is in the carding room. Roving +bobbins should be marked for each speeder; and the spinner run each +separate on his frames. Then if you had bad work you could tell very +quick which speeder it belonged to.</p> + +<a name="Section_14" id="Section_14"></a><br /> + +<h4>BUNCHES.</h4> + +<p>14. How bunches can be made on spinning frames. By piecing on roving +and leaving the end to run through double. By piecing up ends and not +twisting on smoothly. By wiping out the roving rack and the waste +catching on the roving and running through the rolls. By wiping off +thread-boards, waste catching on to the ends and spinning. By rolls +not being kept clean and oiled. By spinners not being careful enough +when they clean their rolls. By spinners brushing and cleaning their +frames. By brushing down over head. By spinners not keeping their +clearers clean. The carder should be just as particular about making +his roving as the spinner is about making his yarn; then there will be +good work all through. A dry front roll will make bunches on spinning +frames, and will do the same on speeders. Sweepers should not blow +their waste under the frames. Bunches can be made on spoolers by +thread guides not being wide enough for the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>threads to pass through. +A bunch will collect and stop the spool. Spooler tenders lift it over +on to the spool.</p> + +<a name="Section_15" id="Section_15"></a><br /> + +<h4>COARSE THREADS.</h4> + +<p>15. How coarse threads are made. First, by coarse roving; second by +spinners letting two roving run through the guide; third, by one end +catching on to another and running on to the bobbin; fourth, sometimes +where there is two ends on one boss, one end will break and catch onto +the other and spin. If the trouble is in the spinning, you untwist the +thread and you will find two threads instead of one. If not two +threads, the trouble is in the carding room.</p> + +<a name="Section_16" id="Section_16"></a><br /> + +<h4>CHANGING NUMBERS.</h4> + +<p>16. When you change from one number to another see that the motion +runs right to pack the yarn closely on the bobbin; then have your +travelers just heavy enough to keep the ends straight. By running a +heavy traveler you pack the yarn harder on the bobbin. I do not +believe in running a traveler heavy enough to pull down the ends, but +heavy enough to keep the ends straight.</p> + +<a name="Section_17" id="Section_17"></a><br /> + +<h4>POOR COTTON.</h4> + +<p>17. When cotton is poor you may need a little <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>more twist in the yarn; +sometimes when cotton is poor, the warp spinning will run bad. In this +case you may run your warp one number heavier and mule filling one +number lighter. Waste work requires more twist than good cotton.</p> + +<a name="Section_18" id="Section_18"></a><br /> + +<h4>ECONOMY OF HEAVY TRAVELERS.</h4> + +<p>18. It is cheaper for the company to run heavy travelers, and wind the +yarn hard on the bobbins and spools. You get more length of yarn and a +better quality. Will not cost so much for spooling.</p> + +<a name="Section_19" id="Section_19"></a><br /> + +<h4>KNITTED YARN.</h4> + +<p>19. If the yarn is knitted the trouble is in the carding room, as you +cannot make knitted yarn on spinning frames.</p> + +<a name="Section_20" id="Section_20"></a><br /> + +<h4>SNARLED YARN.</h4> + +<p>20. How snarled yarn is made. By spinners not finding the end and +breaking a thread on the bobbin to piece up by. By having the taper +shorter on top of the bobbin than on the bottom, so when the doffers +take the full bobbins off, the thread pulls over the top and snarls. +To avoid the above, lower the arm where it is attached to the frame, +(the arm that the heart rider is attached to). About one-quarter of an +inch will be enough. You want the taper longer at the top than at the +bottom.</p> + +<a name="Section_21" id="Section_21"></a><br /> + +<h4><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>LAP WASTE.</h4> + +<p>21. How to avoid making lap waste in spinning room. By keeping +spinners where their work is, and by not giving spinners any more work +than they can keep up. By having good doffers and good starters. If +doffers and starters are not good they will make more waste than their +wages will come to. Doffers should wind the thread four times around +the bobbin. Starters should not wind on to bobbins when there is yarn +on to piece up by.</p> + +<a name="Section_22" id="Section_22"></a><br /> + +<h4>ROVING WASTE.</h4> + +<p>22. How to avoid making roving waste in spinning room. By letting it +all run through the rolls into yarn. All bad roving should be sent +back into the carding room, where it belongs, every day.</p> + +<a name="Section_23" id="Section_23"></a><br /> + +<h4>PICKING UP WASTES.</h4> + +<p>23. All wastes should be picked up, looked over, weighed and carried +off where it belongs, every day. You will find it much better than the +old way. Not so apt to accumulate.</p> + +<a name="Section_24" id="Section_24"></a><br /> + +<h4>COLORED WORK.</h4> + +<p>24. Colored work always runs heavy. You want one tooth less draught +change gear than <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>your hank roving figures for. But put in the same +twist.</p> + +<a name="Section_25" id="Section_25"></a><br /> + +<h4>DOFFING.</h4> + +<p>25. System in doffing the frames. To save making waste and trouble in +the room, doff every other row right through, then go back and doff +the remaining rows through. In doffing this way the spinners can tend +more sides and not make so much waste, as any spinner knows, or ought +to know. Frames run better when half full than on an empty bobbin. One +frame stopped at a time to doff, is all that ought to be permitted. +From three to four minutes is long enough time to doff any frame with +four doffers. The first frame should be filled to a gauge astride the +bobbin. Do not go by the clock, as the yarn is sometimes heavy. This +gauge is the best guide I ever had in doffing.</p> + +<a name="Section_26" id="Section_26"></a><br /> + +<h4>SPEED OF CYLINDER.</h4> + +<p>26. How to get speed of cylinder. See what main line runs; then get +diameter of counter pulley that carries the cylinder below. The pulley +above is called a driver. Then multiply the speed of main line by +diameter of counter pulley that carries the cylinder, and divide that +by the diameter of the pulley that is on the cylinder, which is called +the driven. Then to get speed of spindles, get diameter of cylinder, +and multiply the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>speed of cylinder by diameter of cylinder, and +divide that by the diameter of the whorl.</p> + +<a name="Section_27" id="Section_27"></a><br /> + +<h4>SPEEDING PULLEYS.</h4> + +<p>27. To know what pulley will drive your cylinder faster or slower. +Multiply the speed you would like to have it run, by diameter of +pulley overhead, that carries the cylinder, and divide that by the +speed you are now running. Will give you pulley required.</p> + +<a name="Section_28" id="Section_28"></a><br /> + +<h4>TAKING UP BELTS.</h4> + +<p>28. To know how to take up a belt, when you change pulleys. If your +belt is tight enough with the pulley you now have on, for every inch +that your pulley is smaller than you now have on, take out one inch +and three-quarters of belting. If larger, right the reverse.</p> + +<a name="Section_29" id="Section_29"></a><br /> + +<h4>TWISTS.</h4> + +<p>29. To know what number of twists to the inch, for any number of yarn. +On warp, multiply the square root of the number by 5. Frame filling by +4, and mule filling by 3-¼. For every ten numbers below thirty take +away two twist to the inch. For every ten numbers above thirty, add +two.</p> + +<a name="Section_30" id="Section_30"></a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span><br /> + +<h4>SQUARE ROOT.</h4> + +<p>30. Square Root of numbers from 18 to 30.—These twists are within a +fraction.</p> + +<br /> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="70%" summary="Square Root of numbers 18 to 30" style="border: solid 1pt black;"> + <tr> + <td class="tdc box" width="20%">NUMBERS</td> + <td class="tdc box" width="20%">SQ ROOT</td> + <td class="tdc box" width="30%">Warp Twist</td> + <td class="tdc box" width="30%">Filling Twist</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcbt bl br">13</td> + <td class="tdcbt bl br">3.605</td> + <td class="tdlbt bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">15 per inch</td> + <td class="tdlbt bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">11-½ per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">14</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">3.741</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">15-½ per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">12 per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">14</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">3.741</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">15-½ per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">12 per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">18</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.242</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">19 per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">15 per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">19</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.359</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">19-½ per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">15 per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">20</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.472</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">20-½ per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">15-½ per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">21</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.582</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">21 per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">16 per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">22</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.690</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">21-½ per inch. </td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">16-½ per inch. </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">23</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.796</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">22 per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">17 per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">24</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.899</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">22-½ per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">25</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.000</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">24 per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">19 per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">26</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.099</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">24-½ per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">27</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.196</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">25 per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">19-¾ per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">28</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.291</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">25-½ per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">21 per inch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">29</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.385</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;">26 per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl bl br" style="padding-left: 2%;"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc blb br">30</td> + <td class="tdc blb br">5.477</td> + <td class="tdl blb br" style="padding-left: 2%;">27-½ per inch.</td> + <td class="tdl blb br" style="padding-left: 2%;">22 per inch.</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<a name="Section_31" id="Section_31"></a><br /> + +<h4>DRAUGHT FOR YARN.</h4> + +<p>31. To know the draught for any number of yarn. Write the number you +are spinning or want to spin, add two ciphers to it; divide that by +the hank roving that you are spinning from, to get draught. Example; +hank roving 225, No. yarn 18. Add two ciphers, (1800); divided by 225 +gives 8 draught.</p> + +<a name="Section_32" id="Section_32"></a><br /> + +<h4>GEAR REQUIRED.</h4> + +<p>32. This is the way I was taught to figure <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>draughts of different +numbers of yarn. If you want to run another number with the same hank +roving, multiply the smallest draught change gear by the number you +are spinning, and divide that by the number you want to spin, and that +will give you the gear required.</p> + +<a name="Section_33" id="Section_33"></a><br /> + +<h4>ROVING REQUIRED.</h4> + +<p>33. If you want to spin another number with same draught, write your +number that you want to spin (as above) and divide that by the +draught. That will give you hank roving required.</p> + +<a name="Section_34" id="Section_34"></a><br /> + +<h4>TO FIND DRAUGHT CHANGE GEAR.</h4> + +<p>34. Rule to find the draught change gear required. When you change +from one number to another on a frame or mule, when the draught and +roving both have to be changed, multiply the number of the yarn being +spun by the hank roving desired, and that product by the number of +teeth in the draught change gear; using that for a dividend. Then +multiply the number of the yarn desired by the hank roving, using that +for a divisor; that product divided will tell the draught change gear +that is required.</p> + +<a name="Section_35" id="Section_35"></a><br /> + +<h4>TWIST GEAR.</h4> + +<p>35. The way I was taught to find the twist gear by square root of the +number of yarn. Multiply <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>the twist gear in use by the square root of +the number being spun, and divide that product by the square root of +the number you want to spin. That will give you the twist gear +required.</p> + +<a name="Section_36" id="Section_36"></a><br /> + +<h4>TWIST PULLEY.</h4> + +<p>36. To get the twist pulley for another number of yarn. See what twist +the pulley gives that you have on, and multiply the twist that you +have in, by the pulley that is on, and divide that product by the +twist you would like to put in to get the pulley required.</p> + +<a name="Section_37" id="Section_37"></a><br /> + +<h4>TWIST OF YARN.</h4> + +<p>37. To know how to get the exact twist in yarn. Have your roll belt +tight, and band also. Count the revolutions of the spindle to the +rollers once. Divide that by the circumference of the roll, which is +3-14/100 inches. Example. Say 86 turns to the rolls once. (3-14/100) +86.00 turns, (27-38/100) twists to the inch.</p> + +<a name="Section_38" id="Section_38"></a><br /> + +<h4>WEIGHT ON TOP ROLLS.</h4> + +<p>38. To know the weight on top rolls. You must measure the distance +from where the stirrup is attached to the lever to where the wire is +attached that holds the weight; then multiply the distance by whatever +the weight weighs, and divide that product by the exact distance from +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>where the lever is attached to the set screw, to where the stirrup is +attached.</p> + +<a name="Section_39" id="Section_39"></a><br /> + +<h4>SQUARE ROOT TABLE FOR THE TWIST OF YARNS.</h4> + +<p>39</p> + +<br /> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="85%" summary="Square Root Table" style="border: solid 1pt black;"> + <tr> + <td class="tdc box" width="14%">No. of Yarn</td> + <td class="tdc box" width="20%">Square Root</td> + <td class="tdc box" width="13%">No. of Yarn</td> + <td class="tdc box" width="20%">Square Root</td> + <td class="tdc box" width="13%">No. of Yarn</td> + <td class="tdc box" width="20%">Square Root</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdcbt bl br"> 1</td> + <td class="tdcbt bl br">1.000</td> + <td class="tdcbt bl br">31</td> + <td class="tdcbt bl br">5.567</td> + <td class="tdcbt bl br">61</td> + <td class="tdcbt bl br">7.810</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br"> 2</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">1.414</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">32</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.656</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">62</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.874</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br"> 3</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">1.732</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">33</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.744</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">63</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.937</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br"> 4</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">2.000</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">34</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.830</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">64</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br"> 5</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">2.236</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">35</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.916</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">65</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.062</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br"> 6</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">2.449</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">36</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.000</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">66</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.124</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br"> 7</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">2.645</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">37</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.082</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">67</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.185</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br"> 8</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">2.828</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">38</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.164</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">68</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.246</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br"> 9</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">3.000</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">39</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.244</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">69</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.306</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">10</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">3.162</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">40</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.324</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">70</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.366</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">11</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">3.316</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">41</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.403</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">71</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.426</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">12</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">3.464</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">42</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.480</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">72</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.485</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">13</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">3.605</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">43</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.557</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">73</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.544</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">14</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">3.741</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">44</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.633</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">74</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.602</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">15</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">3.872</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">45</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.708</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">75</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.660</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">16</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.000</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">46</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.782</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">76</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.717</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">17</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.123</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">47</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.855</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">77</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.774</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">18</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.242</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">48</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">6.928</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">78</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.831</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">19</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.358</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">49</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.000</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">79</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.888</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">20</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.472</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">50</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.071</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">80</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">8.944</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">21</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.582</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">51</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.141</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">81</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">9.000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">22</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.690</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">52</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.211</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">82</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">9.055</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">23</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.795</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">53</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.280</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">83</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">9.110</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">24</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">4.898</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">54</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.348</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">84</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">9.165</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">25</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.000</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">55</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.416</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">85</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">9.219</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">26</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.099</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">56</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.483</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">86</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">9.273</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">27</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.196</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">57</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.549</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">87</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">9.327</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">28</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.291</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">58</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.615</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">88</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">9.380</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc bl br">29</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">5.385</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">59</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">7.681</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">89</td> + <td class="tdc bl br">9.433</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc blb br">30</td> + <td class="tdc blb br">5.477</td> + <td class="tdc blb br">60</td> + <td class="tdc blb br">7.745</td> + <td class="tdc blb br">90</td> + <td class="tdc blb br">9.486</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<br /> + +<p><img border="0" src="images/finger.gif" alt="hand" /> If any Spinner purchasing this book has trouble with his work, he +will receive aid from me (if in my power) by stating all particulars.</p> + +<p>All orders for this book should be addressed to Francis L. Lincoln, +P.O. Box 35, Warren, Mass.</p> + +<h4 class="sc">Price One Dollar.</h4> + +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Instruction book on ring spinning, by +Francis L. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Instruction book on ring spinning + +Author: Francis L. Lincoln + +Release Date: August 13, 2010 [EBook #33424] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INSTRUCTION BOOK ON RING SPINNING *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + +/$ +INSTRUCTION BOOK + +ON + +RING SPINNING + +BY + +FRANCIS L. LINCOLN. + + + + +WARREN, MASS. +HERALD PRINTING COMPANY. +1885. +$/ + + + + +/$ +Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1885, +By FRANCIS L. LINCOLN, +In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. +$/ + + + + +PREFACE. + + +The object of this little book is to give help and instruction to +those who are engaged in this department of mill work. It imparts that +knowledge which only years of thorough study and observation can give. +It has been carefully prepared by an experienced Spinner, who has +given years of study to it, in order to benefit and help those who are +interested in the Spinning department. + +/$ + FRANCIS L. LINCOLN, Author. +$/ + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +/$ + 1. The First Thing to do when going into a strange room to take + charge. + + 2. To see that your Draughts, Twists and Travelers are right, + etc. + + 3. How to pack Yarn closely on the Bobbin. + + 4. To see that your Thread Guides are + + 5. About Spindles, Rings, and Steel Rolls. + + 6. How Top Rolls should be kept in order to make good yarn weight + on top rolls, etc. + + 7. Bands; how they should be run, etc. + + 8. What to do when you have long staple Cotton. + + 9. What Twists should be in the hank roving, and why. + + 10. How Roving should be when run double, and how to get it + single. + + 11. How to run colored Roving double on spinning frames. + + 12. How Waste should be run through the lappers, etc. + + 13. How to prove that uneven work is not made on Spinning Frames. + + 14. How bunches can be made on Spinning Frames and Spoolers. + + 15. How coarse threads are made. + + 16. Caution to be observed in changing from one number of yarn to + another. + + 17. What to do when Cotton is poor. + + 18. Why it is cheaper for the Company to wind the yarn hard on the + bobbins and spools. + + 19. If yarn is knitted, where the trouble is. + + 20. How snarled yarn is made, etc. + + 21. How to avoid making lap waste in spinning room. + + 22. How to avoid making roving waste in spinning room. + + 23. When wastes should be picked up. + + 24. What the draught change gear should be, when you run colored + work. + + 25. System in doffing the frames and gauge to go by. + + 26. How to get speed of cylinder and spindles. + + 27. To know what pulley will drive your cylinder faster or slower. + + 28. How to take up a belt or let it out, when you change pulleys. + + 29. Rule for finding what number of twists to the inch for any + number of yarn. + + 30. Square Root of numbers, from 18 to 30, with twist. + + 31. The rule for finding the draught for any number of yarn. + + 32. The gear required to run another number on the same hank + roving. + + 33. The hank roving required to run another number of yarn with + same draught. + + 34. Rule to find the draught change gear required, when changing + from one number to another on a frame or mule, when the + draught and roving both have to be altered. + + 35. How to find the twist gear by square root of the number. + + 36. How to get twist pulley for another number of yarn. + + 37. How to get the exact twist in yarn. + + 38. How to get the weight on top rolls. + + 39. Square Root table for the twist of yarn. +$/ + + + + +INSTRUCTION BOOK. + + +THE FIRST THING. + +1. The first thing to do when going into a strange room to take +charge, is to learn the names and dispositions of your help, and their +ability. By doing this it will save you some trouble. Do not turn off +help the first day you go into a room to take charge. Get the good +will of your help and keep them; and when they learn your ways and +know you mean just what you say, every thing will be pleasant for them +and you also. + + +DRAUGHTS, TWISTS AND TRAVELERS. + +2. To see that your Draughts, Twists and Travelers are right for the +numbers of yarns you are spinning. Travelers govern the twist. When +the bobbins are full there is more twist in than when it first starts. +Have them heavy enough to keep the ends straight. If Travelers are +poor the work will run bad. Change them on fine work once in three or +four months, clean them every doff, and touch the ring with a little +oily waste. If Draught gears bind, spinners cannot keep their ends +up. + + +PACKING YARN ON BOBBINS. + +3. To see that the yarn is packed closely on the bobbin. The way to +tell is to put an empty bobbin on, and run one layer of yarn upon it; +if the threads do not lay close together, run your motion slower. In +this way you get more length of yarn to the bobbin. + + +THREAD GUIDES. + +4. To see that your thread guides are central with the bobbin below. +If a crease has been made by the thread running through it, take it +out and put in a new one. + + +SPINDLES. + +5. To see that the spindles are in the center of the rings, and that +your rings are in good condition. A poor ring will make two-thirds +more waste than a good one, and the frame requires three times the +cleaning that it does with a good ring. Slip your finger round inside +of the ring; if it feels notchy the ring is poor. Take it out. Rings +should be looked over every time you scour. That should be every six +months. Steel rolls should be rubbed with one-twenty emery cloth once +a year, with a little oil. + + +TOP ROLLS. + +6. See that your top rolls are kept in good condition. Look them all +over once a month if that will do, if not look them over oftener. New +rolls should always be put in the front, poorest ones in the back. New +rolls should always be calipered at each end; if they do not caliper +the same at each end of the roll, the roll should not be used, as it +would spoil the yarn, and spinners could not keep up their ends. New +rolls should be oiled when they are put in to run. Neck of front rolls +should be oiled morning and noon. All of the rolls should be oiled +once a week. The weight should be the same on all top rolls. In order +to do this your saddles must be all alike, and must not hug the neck +of the roll. Stirrups should be all of the same length and style. The +levers should be all of the same length and style; and weights should +be all of the same heft. Stirrups must clear the rolls, and use double +saddles. Shell rolls should be cleaned and oiled once a month, with +lard oil. Use vinegar with one-third water to clean top rolls. Roller +hooks should not be used on steel rolls. + + +CARRYING. + +7. A small band carrying one spindle is better than a large band +carrying a number of spindles. It makes better yarn, and not one-third +the waste. Bands should be put on tight; and the spinner should call +the band boy soon as one comes off, to put on a new one. Bands should +all be looked over once a week, and all slack ones cut off and new +ones put on. A slack band makes soft yarn. If your frame does not run +up to speed, you will get soft yarn. A dry spindle will also make soft +yarn. Keep your spindles properly oiled. + + +LONG STAPLE COTTON. + +8. For long staple cotton you must spread the bottom and top rolls a +little to avoid cockley yarn. Long staple cotton does not require so +much twist on spinning as short. + + +ROVING. + +9. Too much twist in roving makes bad yarn, and spoils the top rolls +on spinning frames. The square root of the number is about the twist +for roving. It gives the Carder a chance to keep up with the spinning, +and gives the Spinner a chance to make a better quality of yarn. If +there is too much twist in the roving, you cannot draw it on spinning +frames without spreading the rolls; but then it will spoil the top +rolls. Keep your numbers even if you can. Size from every fine speeder +and average it every day, and examine the yarn every time you size, to +see if it is good. By doing so it may save you considerable trouble. + + +TWO-ROVING. + +10. In running two-roving together, always have them of the same +hank, because if one is of one hank, and the other of another, there +will be more twist in one than in the other, and will not make as good +yarn, and will not draw as even as they would if they were of the same +twist or hank. To know what the two hanks would be single; you must +add the two hanks together, and divide that by four to get it single. + + +DOUBLE WORK. + +11. The way to run double work on spinning frames. Have the white put +in the top, if you have double creels; and colored work in the bottom. +Piece the back roving in the top with the back roving in the bottom. +Front in with front makes the yarn more even. + + +WASTE. + +12. Waste must be run through the lapper all by itself, not mix it +with the good cotton; and if one section of cards will run one lap a +day and keep the waste up, you may run one; if it makes two laps put +on two sections, (one lap on each section,) and the work or yarn will +be more even. + + +UNEVEN WORK. + +13. How to prove that uneven work is not made on spinning frames. See +that your draught gears do not bind; if they do, you will have uneven +yarn. Put in new rolls in front, middle and back. See that your frame +runs up to right speed and roller belt is tight. See that the rings +and travelers are good. See that stirrups and saddles are in place. +Then if your yarn is uneven the trouble is in the carding room. Roving +bobbins should be marked for each speeder; and the spinner run each +separate on his frames. Then if you had bad work you could tell very +quick which speeder it belonged to. + + +BUNCHES. + +14. How bunches can be made on spinning frames. By piecing on roving +and leaving the end to run through double. By piecing up ends and not +twisting on smoothly. By wiping out the roving rack and the waste +catching on the roving and running through the rolls. By wiping off +thread-boards, waste catching on to the ends and spinning. By rolls +not being kept clean and oiled. By spinners not being careful enough +when they clean their rolls. By spinners brushing and cleaning their +frames. By brushing down over head. By spinners not keeping their +clearers clean. The carder should be just as particular about making +his roving as the spinner is about making his yarn; then there will be +good work all through. A dry front roll will make bunches on spinning +frames, and will do the same on speeders. Sweepers should not blow +their waste under the frames. Bunches can be made on spoolers by +thread guides not being wide enough for the threads to pass through. +A bunch will collect and stop the spool. Spooler tenders lift it over +on to the spool. + + +COARSE THREADS. + +15. How coarse threads are made. First, by coarse roving; second by +spinners letting two roving run through the guide; third, by one end +catching on to another and running on to the bobbin; fourth, sometimes +where there is two ends on one boss, one end will break and catch onto +the other and spin. If the trouble is in the spinning, you untwist the +thread and you will find two threads instead of one. If not two +threads, the trouble is in the carding room. + + +CHANGING NUMBERS. + +16. When you change from one number to another see that the motion +runs right to pack the yarn closely on the bobbin; then have your +travelers just heavy enough to keep the ends straight. By running a +heavy traveler you pack the yarn harder on the bobbin. I do not +believe in running a traveler heavy enough to pull down the ends, but +heavy enough to keep the ends straight. + + +POOR COTTON. + +17. When cotton is poor you may need a little more twist in the yarn; +sometimes when cotton is poor, the warp spinning will run bad. In this +case you may run your warp one number heavier and mule filling one +number lighter. Waste work requires more twist than good cotton. + + +ECONOMY OF HEAVY TRAVELERS. + +18. It is cheaper for the company to run heavy travelers, and wind the +yarn hard on the bobbins and spools. You get more length of yarn and a +better quality. Will not cost so much for spooling. + + +KNITTED YARN. + +19. If the yarn is knitted the trouble is in the carding room, as you +cannot make knitted yarn on spinning frames. + + +SNARLED YARN. + +20. How snarled yarn is made. By spinners not finding the end and +breaking a thread on the bobbin to piece up by. By having the taper +shorter on top of the bobbin than on the bottom, so when the doffers +take the full bobbins off, the thread pulls over the top and snarls. +To avoid the above, lower the arm where it is attached to the frame, +(the arm that the heart rider is attached to). About one-quarter of an +inch will be enough. You want the taper longer at the top than at the +bottom. + + +LAP WASTE. + +21. How to avoid making lap waste in spinning room. By keeping +spinners where their work is, and by not giving spinners any more work +than they can keep up. By having good doffers and good starters. If +doffers and starters are not good they will make more waste than their +wages will come to. Doffers should wind the thread four times around +the bobbin. Starters should not wind on to bobbins when there is yarn +on to piece up by. + + +ROVING WASTE. + +22. How to avoid making roving waste in spinning room. By letting it +all run through the rolls into yarn. All bad roving should be sent +back into the carding room, where it belongs, every day. + + +PICKING UP WASTES. + +23. All wastes should be picked up, looked over, weighed and carried +off where it belongs, every day. You will find it much better than the +old way. Not so apt to accumulate. + + +COLORED WORK. + +24. Colored work always runs heavy. You want one tooth less draught +change gear than your hank roving figures for. But put in the same +twist. + + +DOFFING. + +25. System in doffing the frames. To save making waste and trouble in +the room, doff every other row right through, then go back and doff +the remaining rows through. In doffing this way the spinners can tend +more sides and not make so much waste, as any spinner knows, or ought +to know. Frames run better when half full than on an empty bobbin. One +frame stopped at a time to doff, is all that ought to be permitted. +From three to four minutes is long enough time to doff any frame with +four doffers. The first frame should be filled to a gauge astride the +bobbin. Do not go by the clock, as the yarn is sometimes heavy. This +gauge is the best guide I ever had in doffing. + + +SPEED OF CYLINDER. + +26. How to get speed of cylinder. See what main line runs; then get +diameter of counter pulley that carries the cylinder below. The pulley +above is called a driver. Then multiply the speed of main line by +diameter of counter pulley that carries the cylinder, and divide that +by the diameter of the pulley that is on the cylinder, which is called +the driven. Then to get speed of spindles, get diameter of cylinder, +and multiply the speed of cylinder by diameter of cylinder, and +divide that by the diameter of the whorl. + + +SPEEDING PULLEYS. + +27. To know what pulley will drive your cylinder faster or slower. +Multiply the speed you would like to have it run, by diameter of +pulley overhead, that carries the cylinder, and divide that by the +speed you are now running. Will give you pulley required. + + +TAKING UP BELTS. + +28. To know how to take up a belt, when you change pulleys. If your +belt is tight enough with the pulley you now have on, for every inch +that your pulley is smaller than you now have on, take out one inch +and three-quarters of belting. If larger, right the reverse. + + +TWISTS. + +29. To know what number of twists to the inch, for any number of yarn. +On warp, multiply the square root of the number by 5. Frame filling by +4, and mule filling by 3-1/4. For every ten numbers below thirty take +away two twist to the inch. For every ten numbers above thirty, add +two. + + +SQUARE ROOT. + +30. Square Root of numbers from 18 to 30.--These twists are within a +fraction. + +/$ + +---------+---------+---------------+----------------+ + | NUMBERS | SQ ROOT | Warp Twist | Filling Twist | + +---------+---------+---------------+----------------+ + | 13 | 3.605 | 15 per inch | 11-1/2 per inch. | + | 14 | 3.741 | 15-1/2 " " | 12 " " | + | 18 | 4.242 | 19 " " | 15 " " | + | 19 | 4.359 | 19-1/2 " " | 15 " " | + | 20 | 4.472 | 20-1/2 " " | 15-1/2 " " | + | 21 | 4.582 | 21 " " | 16 " " | + | 22 | 4.690 | 21-1/2 " " | 16-1/2 " " | + | 23 | 4.796 | 22 " " | 17 " " | + | 24 | 4.899 | 22-1/2 " " | | + | 25 | 5.000 | 24 " " | 19 " " | + | 26 | 5.099 | 24-1/2 " " | | + | 27 | 5.196 | 25 " " | 19-3/4 " " | + | 28 | 5.291 | 25-1/2 " " | 21 " " | + | 29 | 5.385 | 26 " " | | + | 30 | 5.477 | 27-1/2 " " | 22 " " | + +---------+---------+---------------+----------------+ +$/ + + +DRAUGHT FOR YARN. + +31. To know the draught for any number of yarn. Write the number you +are spinning or want to spin, add two ciphers to it; divide that by +the hank roving that you are spinning from, to get draught. Example; +hank roving 225, No. yarn 18. Add two ciphers, (1800); divided by 225 +gives 8 draught. + + +GEAR REQUIRED. + +32. This is the way I was taught to figure draughts of different +numbers of yarn. If you want to run another number with the same hank +roving, multiply the smallest draught change gear by the number you +are spinning, and divide that by the number you want to spin, and that +will give you the gear required. + + +ROVING REQUIRED. + +33. If you want to spin another number with same draught, write your +number that you want to spin (as above) and divide that by the +draught. That will give you hank roving required. + + +TO FIND DRAUGHT CHANGE GEAR. + +34. Rule to find the draught change gear required. When you change +from one number to another on a frame or mule, when the draught and +roving both have to be changed, multiply the number of the yarn being +spun by the hank roving desired, and that product by the number of +teeth in the draught change gear; using that for a dividend. Then +multiply the number of the yarn desired by the hank roving, using that +for a divisor; that product divided will tell the draught change gear +that is required. + + +TWIST GEAR. + +35. The way I was taught to find the twist gear by square root of the +number of yarn. Multiply the twist gear in use by the square root of +the number being spun, and divide that product by the square root of +the number you want to spin. That will give you the twist gear +required. + + +TWIST PULLEY. + +36. To get the twist pulley for another number of yarn. See what twist +the pulley gives that you have on, and multiply the twist that you +have in, by the pulley that is on, and divide that product by the +twist you would like to put in to get the pulley required. + + +TWIST OF YARN. + +37. To know how to get the exact twist in yarn. Have your roll belt +tight, and band also. Count the revolutions of the spindle to the +rollers once. Divide that by the circumference of the roll, which is +3-14/100 inches. Example. Say 86 turns to the rolls once. (3-14/100) +86.00 turns, (27-38/100) twists to the inch. + + +WEIGHT ON TOP ROLLS. + +38. To know the weight on top rolls. You must measure the distance +from where the stirrup is attached to the lever to where the wire is +attached that holds the weight; then multiply the distance by whatever +the weight weighs, and divide that product by the exact distance from +where the lever is attached to the set screw, to where the stirrup is +attached. + + +SQUARE ROOT TABLE FOR THE TWIST OF YARNS. + +39 + +/$ + +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+ + | No. of | Square | No. of | Square | No. of | Square | + | Yarn | Root | Yarn | Root | Yarn | Root | + +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+ + | 1 | 1.000 | 31 | 5.567 | 61 | 7.810 | + | 2 | 1.414 | 32 | 5.656 | 62 | 7.874 | + | 3 | 1.732 | 33 | 5.744 | 63 | 7.937 | + | 4 | 2.000 | 34 | 5.830 | 64 | 8.000 | + | 5 | 2.236 | 35 | 5.916 | 65 | 8.062 | + | 6 | 2.449 | 36 | 6.000 | 66 | 8.124 | + | 7 | 2.645 | 37 | 6.082 | 67 | 8.185 | + | 8 | 2.828 | 38 | 6.164 | 68 | 8.246 | + | 9 | 3.000 | 39 | 6.244 | 69 | 8.306 | + | 10 | 3.162 | 40 | 6.324 | 70 | 8.366 | + | 11 | 3.316 | 41 | 6.403 | 71 | 8.426 | + | 12 | 3.464 | 42 | 6.480 | 72 | 8.485 | + | 13 | 3.605 | 43 | 6.557 | 73 | 8.544 | + | 14 | 3.741 | 44 | 6.633 | 74 | 8.602 | + | 15 | 3.872 | 45 | 6.708 | 75 | 8.660 | + | 16 | 4.000 | 46 | 6.782 | 76 | 8.717 | + | 17 | 4.123 | 47 | 6.855 | 77 | 8.774 | + | 18 | 4.242 | 48 | 6.928 | 78 | 8.831 | + | 19 | 4.358 | 49 | 7.000 | 79 | 8.888 | + | 20 | 4.472 | 50 | 7.071 | 80 | 8.944 | + | 21 | 4.582 | 51 | 7.141 | 81 | 9.000 | + | 22 | 4.690 | 52 | 7.211 | 82 | 9.055 | + | 23 | 4.795 | 53 | 7.280 | 83 | 9.110 | + | 24 | 4.898 | 54 | 7.348 | 84 | 9.165 | + | 25 | 5.000 | 55 | 7.416 | 85 | 9.219 | + | 26 | 5.099 | 56 | 7.483 | 86 | 9.273 | + | 27 | 5.196 | 57 | 7.549 | 87 | 9.327 | + | 28 | 5.291 | 58 | 7.615 | 88 | 9.380 | + | 29 | 5.385 | 59 | 7.681 | 89 | 9.433 | + | 30 | 5.477 | 60 | 7.745 | 90 | 9.486 | + +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+ +$/ + + +==> If any Spinner purchasing this book has trouble with his work, he +will receive aid from me (if in my power) by stating all particulars. + +All orders for this book should be addressed to Francis L. Lincoln, +P.O. Box 35, Warren, Mass. + +PRICE ONE DOLLAR. + + * * * * * + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Instruction book on ring spinning, by +Francis L. Lincoln + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INSTRUCTION BOOK ON RING SPINNING *** + +***** This file should be named 33424.txt or 33424.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/4/2/33424/ + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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