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+Project Gutenberg's Camping & Tramping with Roosevelt, by John Burroughs
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Camping & Tramping with Roosevelt
+
+Author: John Burroughs
+
+Release Date: July 2, 2010 [EBook #33053]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMPING & TRAMPING WITH ROOSEVELT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Edwards and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
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+
+
+                              CAMPING &
+                              TRAMPING
+                                WITH
+                              ROOSEVELT
+
+                          BY JOHN BURROUGHS
+
+
+
+
+                       Books by John Burroughs
+
+
+    #WORKS.# 19 vols., uniform, 16mo, with frontispiece, gilt top.
+      WAKE-ROBIN.
+      WINTER SUNSHINE.
+      LOCUSTS AND WILD HONEY.
+      FRESH FIELDS.
+      INDOOR STUDIES.
+      BIRDS AND POETS, WITH OTHER PAPERS.
+      PEPACTON, AND OTHER SKETCHES.
+      SIGNS AND SEASONS.
+      RIVERBY.
+      WHITMAN: A STUDY.
+      THE LIGHT OF DAY.
+      LITERARY VALUES.
+      FAR AND NEAR.
+      WAYS OF NATURE.
+      LEAF AND TENDRIL.
+      TIME AND CHANGE.
+      THE SUMMIT OF THE YEARS.
+      THE BREATH OF LIFE.
+      UNDER THE APPLE-TREES.
+      FIELD AND STUDY.
+
+    #FIELD AND STUDY.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #UNDER THE APPLE-TREES.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #THE BREATH OF LIFE.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #THE SUMMIT OF THE YEARS.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #TIME AND CHANGE.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #LEAF AND TENDRIL.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #WAYS OF NATURE.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #FAR AND NEAR.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #LITERARY VALUES.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #THE LIGHT OF DAY.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #WHITMAN: A Study.# _Riverside Edition._
+
+    #A YEAR IN THE FIELDS.# Selections appropriate to each season
+    of the year, from the writings of John Burroughs. Illustrated
+    from Photographs by CLIFTON JOHNSON.
+
+    #IN THE CATSKILLS.# Illustrated from Photographs by CLIFTON
+    JOHNSON.
+
+    #CAMPING AND TRAMPING WITH ROOSEVELT.# Illustrated from
+    Photographs.
+
+    #BIRD AND BOUGH.# Poems.
+
+    #WINTER SUNSHINE.# _Cambridge Classics Series._
+
+    #WAKE-ROBIN.# _Riverside Aldine Series._
+
+    #SQUIRRELS AND OTHER FUR-BEARERS.# Illustrated.
+
+    #BIRD STORIES FROM BURROUGHS.# Illustrated.
+
+                       HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY
+                         BOSTON AND NEW YORK
+
+
+
+
+    [Illustration: THE PRESIDENT ON GLACIER POINT, YOSEMITE VALLEY
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1905, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York]
+
+
+
+
+                          CAMPING & TRAMPING
+                            WITH ROOSEVELT
+
+                                  BY
+                            JOHN BURROUGHS
+
+                         _WITH ILLUSTRATIONS_
+
+                            [Illustration]
+
+                         BOSTON AND NEW YORK
+                       HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY
+                   #The Riverside Press Cambridge#
+
+
+
+    COPYRIGHT 1906 BY HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO.
+    COPYRIGHT 1907 BY THE OUTLOOK COMPANY
+    COPYRIGHT 1907 BY JOHN BURROUGHS
+
+    _Published October 1907_
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  THE PRESIDENT ON GLACIER POINT, YOSEMITE VALLEY     _Frontispiece_
+  ARRIVAL AT GARDINER, MONTANA                                    10
+  THE PRESIDENT, MR. BURROUGHS AND SECRETARY LOEB                 24
+  THE PRESIDENT IN THE BEAR COUNTRY                               38
+  MR. BURROUGHS'S FAVORITE PASTIME                                50
+  SUNRISE IN THE YELLOWSTONE                                      64
+  THE PRESIDENT ON A TRAIL                                        72
+  THE PRESIDENT'S HOME ON SAGAMORE HILL, SHOWING ADDITION KNOWN
+          AS THE TROPHY ROOM                                      82
+  A BIT OF WOODLAND ON THE SLOPE TOWARDS OYSTER BAY               88
+  A PATH IN THE WOODS LEADING TO COLD SPRING HARBOR               92
+  A YEARLING IN THE APPLE ORCHARD                                 98
+  HALLWAY, SAGAMORE HILL                                         106
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+This little volume really needs no introduction; the two sketches of
+which it is made explain and, I hope, justify themselves. But there is
+one phase of the President's many-sided character upon which I should
+like to lay especial emphasis, namely, his natural history bent and
+knowledge. Amid all his absorbing interests and masterful activities
+in other fields, his interest and his authority in practical natural
+history are by no means the least. I long ago had very direct proof of
+this statement. In some of my English sketches, following a visit to
+that island in 1882, I had, rather by implication than by positive
+statement, inclined to the opinion that the European forms of animal
+life were, as a rule, larger and more hardy and prolific than the
+corresponding forms in this country. Roosevelt could not let this
+statement or suggestion go unchallenged, and the letter which I
+received from him in 1892, touching these things, is of double
+interest at this time, as showing one phase of his radical
+Americanism, while it exhibits him as a thoroughgoing naturalist.
+I am sure my readers will welcome the gist of this letter. After
+some preliminary remarks he says:--
+
+"The point of which I am speaking is where you say that the Old World
+forms of animal life are coarser, stronger, fiercer, and more fertile
+than those of the New World." (My statement was not quite so sweeping
+as this.) "Now I don't think that this is so; at least, comparing the
+forms which are typical of North America and of northern Asia and
+Europe, which together form but one province of animal life.
+
+"Many animals and birds which increase very fast in new countries, and
+which are commonly spoken of as European in their origin, are really
+as alien to Europe as to their new homes. Thus the rabbit, rat, and
+mouse are just as truly interlopers in England as in the United States
+and Australia, having moved thither apparently within historic times,
+the rabbit from North Africa, the others from southern Asia; and one
+could no more generalize upon the comparative weakness of the American
+fauna from these cases of intruders than one could generalize from
+them upon the comparative weakness of the British, German, and French
+wild animals. Our wood mouse or deer mouse retreats before the
+ordinary house mouse in exactly the same way that the European wood
+mouse does, and not a whit more. Our big wood rat stands in the same
+relation to the house rat. Casting aside these cases, it seems to me,
+looking at the mammals, that it would be quite impossible to
+generalize as to whether those of the Old or the New World are more
+fecund, are the fiercest, the hardiest, or the strongest. A great many
+cases could be cited on both sides. Our moose and caribou are, in
+certain of their varieties, rather larger than the Old World forms of
+the same species. If there is any difference between the beavers of
+the two countries, it is in the same direction. So with the great
+family of the field mice. The largest true arvicola seems to be the
+yellow-cheeked mouse of Hudson's Bay, and the biggest representative
+of the family on either continent is the muskrat. In most of its
+varieties the wolf of North America seems to be inferior in strength
+and courage to that of northern Europe and Asia; but the direct
+reverse is true with the grizzly bear, which is merely a somewhat
+larger and fiercer variety of the common European brown bear. On the
+whole, the Old World bison, or so-called aurochs, appears to be
+somewhat more formidable than its American brother; but the difference
+against the latter is not anything like as great as the difference in
+favor of the American wapiti, which is nothing but a giant
+representative of the comparatively puny European stag. So with the
+red fox. The fox of New York is about the size of that of France, and
+inferior in size to that of Scotland; the latter in turn is inferior
+in size to the big fox of the upper Missouri, while the largest of all
+comes from British America. There is no basis for the belief that the
+red fox was imported here from Europe; its skin was a common article
+of trade with the Canadian fur traders from the earliest times. On the
+other hand, the European lynx is much bigger than the American. The
+weasels afford cases in point, showing how hard it is to make a
+general law on the subject. The American badger is very much smaller
+than the European, and the American otter very much larger than the
+European otter. Our pine marten, or sable, compared with that of
+Europe, shows the very qualities of which you speak; that is, its
+skull is slenderer, the bones are somewhat lighter, the teeth less
+stout, the form showing more grace and less strength. But curiously
+enough this is reversed, with even greater emphasis, in the minks of
+the two continents, the American being much the largest and strongest,
+with stouter teeth, bigger bones, and a stronger animal in every way.
+The little weasel is on the whole smaller here, while the big weasel,
+or stoat, is, in some of its varieties at least, largest on this side;
+and, of the true weasels, the largest of all is the so-called fisher,
+a purely American beast, a fierce and hardy animal which habitually
+preys upon as hard fighting a creature as the raccoon, and which could
+eat all the Asiatic and European varieties of weasels without an
+effort.
+
+"About birds I should be far less competent to advance arguments, and
+especially, my dear sir, to you; but it seems to me that two of the
+most self-asserting and hardiest of our families of birds are the
+tyrant flycatchers, of which the kingbird is chief, and the
+blackbirds, or grackles, with the meadow lark at their head, both
+characteristically American.
+
+"Did you ever look over the medical statistics of the half million men
+drafted during the Civil War? They include men of every race and
+color, and from every country of Europe, and from every State in the
+Union; and so many men were measured that the average of the
+measurements is probably pretty fair. From these it would appear that
+the physical type in the Eastern States had undoubtedly degenerated.
+The man from New York or New England, unless he came from the
+lumbering districts, though as tall as the Englishman or Irishman, was
+distinctly lighter built, and especially was narrower across the
+chest; but the finest men physically of all were the Kentuckians and
+Tennesseeans. After them came the Scandinavians, then the Scotch, then
+the people from several of the Western States, such as Wisconsin and
+Minnesota, then the Irish, then the Germans, then the English, etc.
+The decay of vitality, especially as shown in the decreasing fertility
+of the New England and, indeed, New York stock, is very alarming; but
+the most prolific peoples on this continent, whether of native or
+foreign origin, are the native whites of the southern Alleghany
+region in Kentucky and Tennessee, the Virginians, and the Carolinians,
+and also the French of Canada.
+
+"It will be difficult to frame a general law of fecundity in comparing
+the effects upon human life of long residence on the two continents
+when we see that the Frenchman in Canada is healthy and enormously
+fertile, while the old French stock is at the stationary point in
+France, the direct reverse being the case when the English of Old and
+of New England are compared, and the decision being again reversed if
+we compare the English with the mountain whites of the Southern
+States."
+
+
+
+
+CAMPING WITH PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT
+
+
+At the time I made the trip to Yellowstone Park with President
+Roosevelt in the spring of 1903, I promised some friends to write up
+my impressions of the President and of the Park, but I have been slow
+in getting around to it. The President himself, having the absolute
+leisure and peace of the White House, wrote his account of the trip
+nearly two years ago! But with the stress and strain of my life
+at "Slabsides,"--administering the affairs of so many of the wild
+creatures of the woods about me,--I have not till this blessed season
+(fall of 1905) found the time to put on record an account of the most
+interesting thing I saw in that wonderful land, which, of course, was
+the President himself.
+
+When I accepted his invitation I was well aware that during the
+journey I should be in a storm centre most of the time, which is not
+always a pleasant prospect to a man of my habits and disposition. The
+President himself is a good deal of a storm,--a man of such abounding
+energy and ceaseless activity that he sets everything in motion around
+him wherever he goes. But I knew he would be pretty well occupied on
+his way to the Park in speaking to eager throngs and in receiving
+personal and political homage in the towns and cities we were to pass
+through. But when all this was over, and I found myself with him in
+the wilderness of the Park, with only the superintendent and a few
+attendants to help take up his tremendous personal impact, how was it
+likely to fare with a non-strenuous person like myself? I asked. I had
+visions of snow six and seven feet deep, where traveling could be
+done only upon snow-shoes, and I had never had the things on my feet
+in my life. If the infernal fires beneath, that keep the pot boiling
+so furiously in the Park, should melt the snows, I could see the party
+tearing along on horseback at a wolf-hunt pace over a rough country;
+and as I had not been on a horse's back since the President was born,
+how would it be likely to fare with me then?
+
+I had known the President several years before he became famous, and
+we had had some correspondence on subjects of natural history. His
+interest in such themes is always very fresh and keen, and the main
+motive of his visit to the Park at this time was to see and study in
+its semi-domesticated condition the great game which he had so often
+hunted during his ranch days; and he was kind enough to think it would
+be an additional pleasure to see it with a nature-lover like myself.
+For my own part, I knew nothing about big game, but I knew there was
+no man in the country with whom I should so like to see it as
+Roosevelt.
+
+Some of our newspapers reported that the President intended to hunt in
+the Park. A woman in Vermont wrote me, to protest against the hunting,
+and hoped I would teach the President to love the animals as much as I
+did,--as if he did not love them much more, because his love is
+founded upon knowledge, and because they had been a part of his life.
+She did not know that I was then cherishing the secret hope that I
+might be allowed to shoot a cougar or bobcat; but this fun did not
+come to me. The President said, "I will not fire a gun in the Park;
+then I shall have no explanations to make." Yet once I did hear him
+say in the wilderness, "I feel as if I ought to keep the camp in
+meat. I always have." I regretted that he could not do so on this
+occasion.
+
+I have never been disturbed by the President's hunting trips. It is to
+such men as he that the big game legitimately belongs,--men who regard
+it from the point of view of the naturalist as well as from that of
+the sportsman, who are interested in its preservation, and who share
+with the world the delight they experience in the chase. Such a hunter
+as Roosevelt is as far removed from the game-butcher as day is from
+night; and as for his killing of the "varmints,"--bears, cougars, and
+bobcats,--the fewer of these there are, the better for the useful and
+beautiful game.
+
+The cougars, or mountain lions, in the Park certainly needed killing.
+The superintendent reported that he had seen where they had slain
+nineteen elk, and we saw where they had killed a deer and dragged its
+body across the trail. Of course, the President would not now on his
+hunting trips shoot an elk or a deer except to "keep the camp in
+meat," and for this purpose it is as legitimate as to slay a sheep or
+a steer for the table at home.
+
+We left Washington on April 1, and strung several of the larger
+Western cities on our thread of travel,--Chicago, Milwaukee, Madison,
+St. Paul, Minneapolis,--as well as many lesser towns, in each of which
+the President made an address, sometimes brief, on a few occasions of
+an hour or more.
+
+He gave himself very freely and heartily to the people wherever he
+went. He could easily match their Western cordiality and
+good-fellowship. Wherever his train stopped, crowds soon gathered, or
+had already gathered, to welcome him. His advent made a holiday in
+each town he visited. At all the principal stops the usual programme
+was: first, his reception by the committee of citizens appointed to
+receive him,--they usually boarded his private car, and were one by
+one introduced to him; then a drive through the town with a concourse
+of carriages; then to the hall or open-air platform, where he spoke to
+the assembled throng; then to lunch or dinner; and then back to the
+train, and off for the next stop,--a round of hand-shaking,
+carriage-driving, speech-making each day. He usually spoke from eight
+to ten times every twenty-four hours, sometimes for only a few minutes
+from the rear platform of his private car, at others for an hour or
+more in some large hall. In Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul,
+elaborate banquets were given him and his party, and on each occasion
+he delivered a carefully prepared speech upon questions that involved
+the policy of his administration. The throng that greeted him in the
+vast Auditorium in Chicago--that rose and waved and waved again--was
+one of the grandest human spectacles I ever witnessed.
+
+In Milwaukee the dense cloud of tobacco smoke that presently filled
+the large hall after the feasting was over was enough to choke any
+speaker, but it did not seem to choke the President, though he does
+not use tobacco in any form himself; nor was there anything foggy
+about his utterances on that occasion upon legislative control of the
+trusts.
+
+    [Illustration: ARRIVAL AT GARDINER, MONT.
+    (ENTRANCE TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.)
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1906, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York.]
+
+In St. Paul the city was inundated with humanity,--a vast human tide
+that left the middle of the streets bare as our line of carriages
+moved slowly along, but that rose up in solid walls of town and
+prairie humanity on the sidewalks and city dooryards. How hearty and
+happy the myriad faces looked! At one point I spied in the throng on
+the curbstone a large silk banner that bore my own name as the title
+of some society. I presently saw that it was borne by half a dozen
+anxious and expectant-looking schoolgirls with braids down their
+backs. As my carriage drew near them, they pressed their way through
+the throng and threw a large bouquet of flowers into my lap. I think
+it would be hard to say who blushed the deeper, the girls or myself.
+It was the first time I had ever had flowers showered upon me in
+public; and then, maybe, I felt that on such an occasion I was only a
+minor side issue, and public recognition was not called for. But the
+incident pleased the President. "I saw that banner and those flowers,"
+he said afterwards; "and I was delighted to see you honored that way."
+But I fear I have not to this day thanked the Monroe School of St.
+Paul for that pretty attention.
+
+The time of the passing of the presidential train seemed well known,
+even on the Dakota prairies. At one point I remember a little brown
+schoolhouse stood not far off, and near the track the school-ma'am,
+with her flock, drawn up in line. We were at luncheon, but the
+President caught a glimpse ahead through the window, and quickly took
+in the situation. With napkin in hand, he rushed out on the platform
+and waved to them. "Those children," he said, as he came back, "wanted
+to see the President of the United States, and I could not disappoint
+them. They may never have another chance. What a deep impression such
+things make when we are young!"
+
+At some point in the Dakotas we picked up the former foreman of his
+ranch and another cowboy friend of the old days, and they rode with
+the President in his private car for several hours. He was as happy
+with them as a schoolboy ever was in meeting old chums. He beamed with
+delight all over. The life which those men represented, and of which
+he had himself once formed a part, meant so much to him; it had
+entered into the very marrow of his being, and I could see the joy of
+it all shining in his face as he sat and lived parts of it over again
+with those men that day. He bubbled with laughter continually. The
+men, I thought, seemed a little embarrassed by his open-handed
+cordiality and good-fellowship. He himself evidently wanted to forget
+the present, and to live only in the memory of those wonderful ranch
+days,--that free, hardy, adventurous life upon the plains. It all came
+back to him with a rush when he found himself alone with these heroes
+of the rope and the stirrup. How much more keen his appreciation was,
+and how much quicker his memory, than theirs! He was constantly
+recalling to their minds incidents which they had forgotten, and the
+names of horses and dogs which had escaped them. His subsequent life,
+instead of making dim the memory of his ranch days, seemed to have
+made it more vivid by contrast.
+
+When they had gone I said to him, "I think your affection for those
+men very beautiful."
+
+"How could I help it?" he said.
+
+"Still, few men in your station could or would go back and renew such
+friendships."
+
+"Then I pity them," he replied.
+
+He said afterwards that his ranch life had been the making of him. It
+had built him up and hardened him physically, and it had opened his
+eyes to the wealth of manly character among the plainsmen and
+cattlemen.
+
+Had he not gone West, he said, he never would have raised the Rough
+Riders regiment; and had he not raised that regiment and gone to the
+Cuban War, he would not have been made governor of New York; and had
+not this happened, the politicians would not unwittingly have made his
+rise to the Presidency so inevitable. There is no doubt, I think, that
+he would have got there some day; but without the chain of events
+above outlined, his rise could not have been so rapid.
+
+Our train entered the Bad Lands of North Dakota in the early evening
+twilight, and the President stood on the rear platform of his car,
+gazing wistfully upon the scene. "I know all this country like a
+book," he said. "I have ridden over it, and hunted over it, and
+tramped over it, in all seasons and weather, and it looks like home to
+me. My old ranch is not far off. We shall soon reach Medora, which
+was my station." It was plain to see that that strange,
+forbidding-looking landscape, hills and valleys to eastern eyes,
+utterly demoralized and gone to the bad,--flayed, fantastic, treeless,
+a riot of naked clay slopes, chimney-like buttes, and dry
+coulees,--was in his eyes a land of almost pathetic interest. There
+were streaks of good pasturage here and there where his cattle used to
+graze, and where the deer and the pronghorn used to linger.
+
+When we reached Medora, where the train was scheduled to stop an hour,
+it was nearly dark, but the whole town and country round had turned
+out to welcome their old townsman. After much hand-shaking, the
+committee conducted us down to a little hall, where the President
+stood on a low platform, and made a short address to the standing
+crowd that filled the place. Then some flashlight pictures were taken
+by the local photographer, after which the President stepped down,
+and, while the people filed past him, shook hands with every man,
+woman, and child of them, calling many of them by name, and greeting
+them all most cordially. I recall one grizzled old frontiersman whose
+hand he grasped, calling him by name, and saying, "How well I remember
+you! You once mended my gunlock for me,--put on a new hammer." "Yes,"
+said the delighted old fellow; "I'm the man, Mr. President." He was
+among his old neighbors once more, and the pleasure of the meeting was
+very obvious on both sides. I heard one of the women tell him they
+were going to have a dance presently, and ask him if he would not stay
+and open it! The President laughingly excused himself, and said his
+train had to leave on schedule time, and his time was nearly up. I
+thought of the incident in his "Ranch Life," in which he says he once
+opened a cowboy ball with the wife of a Minnesota man, who danced
+opposite, and who had recently shot a bullying Scotchman. He says the
+scene reminded him of the ball where Bret Harte's heroine "went down
+the middle with the man that shot Sandy Magee."
+
+Before reaching Medora he had told me many anecdotes of "Hell-Roaring
+Bill Jones," and had said I should see him. But it turned out that
+Hell-Roaring Bill had begun to celebrate the coming of the President
+too early in the day, and when we reached Medora he was not in a
+presentable condition. I forget now how he had earned his name, but no
+doubt he had come honestly by it; it was a part of his history, as was
+that of "The Pike," "Cold-Turkey Bill," "Hash-Knife Joe," and other
+classic heroes of the frontier.
+
+It is curious how certain things go to the bad in the Far West, or a
+certain proportion of them,--bad lands, bad horses, and bad men. And
+it is a degree of badness that the East has no conception of,--land
+that looks as raw and unnatural as if time had never laid its shaping
+and softening hand upon it; horses that, when mounted, put their heads
+to the ground and their heels in the air, and, squealing defiantly,
+resort to the most diabolically ingenious tricks to shake off or to
+kill their riders; and men who amuse themselves in bar-rooms by
+shooting about the feet of a "tenderfoot" to make him dance, or who
+ride along the street and shoot at every one in sight. Just as the old
+plutonic fires come to the surface out there in the Rockies, and hint
+very strongly of the infernal regions, so a kind of satanic element in
+men and animals--an underlying devilishness--crops out, and we have
+the border ruffian and the bucking broncho.
+
+The President told of an Englishman on a hunting trip in the West,
+who, being an expert horseman at home, scorned the idea that he could
+not ride any of their "grass-fed ponies." So they gave him a bucking
+broncho. He was soon lying on the ground, much stunned. When he could
+speak, he said, "I should not have minded him, you know, _but 'e 'ides
+'is 'ead_."
+
+At one place in Dakota the train stopped to take water while we were
+at lunch. A crowd soon gathered, and the President went out to greet
+them. We could hear his voice, and the cheers and laughter of the
+crowd. And then we heard him say, "Well, good-by, I must go now."
+Still he did not come. Then we heard more talking and laughing, and
+another "good-by," and yet he did not come. Then I went out to see
+what had happened. I found the President down on the ground shaking
+hands with the whole lot of them. Some one had reached up to shake his
+hand as he was about withdrawing, and this had been followed by such
+eagerness on the part of the rest of the people to do likewise, that
+the President had instantly got down to gratify them. Had the secret
+service men known it, they would have been in a pickle. We probably
+have never had a President who responded more freely and heartily to
+the popular liking for him than Roosevelt. The crowd always seem to be
+in love with him the moment they see him and hear his voice. And it is
+not by reason of any arts of eloquence, or charm of address, but by
+reason of his inborn heartiness and sincerity, and his genuine
+manliness. The people feel his quality at once. In Bermuda last winter
+I met a Catholic priest who had sat on the platform at some place in
+New England very near the President while he was speaking, and who
+said, "The man had not spoken three minutes before I loved him, and
+had any one tried to molest him, I could have torn him to pieces." It
+is the quality in the man that instantly inspires such a liking as
+this in strangers that will, I am sure, safeguard him in all public
+places.
+
+I once heard him say that he did not like to be addressed as "His
+Excellency;" he added laughingly, "They might just as well call me
+'His Transparency,' for all I care." It is this transparency, this
+direct out-and-out, unequivocal character of him that is one source of
+his popularity. The people do love transparency,--all of them but the
+politicians.
+
+A friend of his one day took him to task for some mistake he had made
+in one of his appointments. "My dear sir," replied the President,
+"where you know of one mistake I have made, I know of ten." How such
+candor must make the politicians shiver!
+
+I have said that I stood in dread of the necessity of snowshoeing in
+the Park, and, in lieu of that, of horseback riding. Yet when we
+reached Gardiner, the entrance to the Park, on that bright, crisp
+April morning, with no snow in sight save that on the mountain-tops,
+and found Major Pitcher and Captain Chittenden at the head of a squad
+of soldiers, with a fine saddle-horse for the President, and an
+ambulance drawn by two span of mules for me, I confess that I
+experienced just a slight shade of mortification. I thought they might
+have given me the option of the saddle or the ambulance. Yet I entered
+the vehicle as if it was just what I had been expecting.
+
+The President and his escort, with a cloud of cowboys hovering in the
+rear, were soon off at a lively pace, and my ambulance followed close,
+and at a lively pace, too; so lively that I soon found myself gripping
+the seat with both hands. "Well," I said to myself, "they are giving
+me a regular Western send-off;" and I thought, as the ambulance swayed
+from side to side, that it would suit me just as well if my driver did
+not try to keep up with the presidential procession. The driver and
+his mules were shut off from me by a curtain, but, looking ahead out
+of the sides of the vehicle, I saw two good-sized logs lying across
+our course. Surely, I thought (and barely had time to think), he will
+avoid these. But he did not, and as we passed over them I was nearly
+thrown through the top of the ambulance. "This _is_ a lively
+send-off," I said, rubbing my bruises with one hand, while I clung to
+the seat with the other. Presently I saw the cowboys scrambling up
+the bank as if to get out of our way; then the President on his fine
+gray stallion scrambling up the bank with his escort, and looking
+ominously in my direction, as we thundered by.
+
+    [Illustration: THE PRESIDENT WITH MR. BURROUGHS AND SECRETARY
+    LOEB JUST BEFORE ENTERING THE PARK.
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1906, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York.]
+
+"Well," I said, "this is indeed a novel ride; for once in my life I
+have sidetracked the President of the United States! I am given the
+right of way over all." On we tore, along the smooth, hard road, and
+did not slacken our pace till, at the end of a mile or two, we began
+to mount the hill toward Fort Yellowstone. And not till we reached the
+fort did I learn that our mules had run away. They had been excited
+beyond control by the presidential cavalcade, and the driver, finding
+he could not hold them, had aimed only to keep them in the road, and
+we very soon had the road all to ourselves.
+
+Fort Yellowstone is at Mammoth Hot Springs, where one gets his first
+view of the characteristic scenery of the Park,--huge, boiling springs
+with their columns of vapor, and the first characteristic odors which
+suggest the traditional infernal regions quite as much as the boiling
+and steaming water does. One also gets a taste of a much more rarefied
+air than he has been used to, and finds himself panting for breath on
+a very slight exertion. The Mammoth Hot Springs have built themselves
+up an enormous mound that stands there above the village on the side
+of the mountain, terraced and scalloped and fluted, and suggesting
+some vitreous formation, or rare carving of enormous, many-colored
+precious stones. It looks quite unearthly, and, though the devil's
+frying pan, and ink pot, and the Stygian caves are not far off, the
+suggestion is of something celestial rather than of the nether
+regions,--a vision of jasper walls, and of amethyst battlements.
+
+With Captain Chittenden I climbed to the top, stepping over the rills
+and creeks of steaming hot water, and looked at the marvelously clear,
+cerulean, but boiling, pools on the summit. The water seemed as
+unearthly in its beauty and purity as the gigantic sculpturing that
+held it.
+
+The Stygian caves are still farther up the mountain,--little pockets
+in the rocks, or well-holes in the ground at your feet, filled with
+deadly carbon dioxide. We saw birds' feathers and quills in all of
+them. The birds hop into them, probably in quest of food or seeking
+shelter, and they never come out. We saw the body of a martin on the
+bank of one hole. Into one we sank a lighted torch, and it was
+extinguished as quickly as if we had dropped it into water. Each cave
+or niche is a death valley on a small scale. Near by we came upon a
+steaming pool, or lakelet, of an acre or more in extent. A pair of
+mallard ducks were swimming about in one end of it,--the cool end.
+When we approached, they swam slowly over into the warmer water. As
+they progressed, the water got hotter and hotter, and the ducks'
+discomfort was evident. Presently they stopped, and turned towards us,
+half appealingly, as I thought. They could go no farther; would we
+please come no nearer? As I took another step or two, up they rose and
+disappeared over the hill. Had they gone to the extreme end of the
+pool, we could have had boiled mallard for dinner.
+
+Another novel spectacle was at night, or near sundown, when the deer
+came down from the hills into the streets and ate hay, a few yards
+from the officers' quarters, as unconcernedly as so many domestic
+sheep. This they had been doing all winter, and they kept it up till
+May, at times a score or more of them profiting thus on the
+government's bounty. When the sundown gun was fired a couple of
+hundred yards away, they gave a nervous start, but kept on with their
+feeding. The antelope and elk and mountain sheep had not yet grown
+bold enough to accept Uncle Sam's charity in that way.
+
+The President wanted all the freedom and solitude possible while in
+the Park, so all newspaper men and other strangers were excluded. Even
+the secret service men and his physician and private secretaries were
+left at Gardiner. He craved once more to be alone with nature; he was
+evidently hungry for the wild and the aboriginal,--a hunger that seems
+to come upon him regularly at least once a year, and drives him forth
+on his hunting trips for big game in the West.
+
+We spent two weeks in the Park, and had fair weather, bright, crisp
+days, and clear, freezing nights. The first week we occupied three
+camps that had been prepared, or partly prepared, for us in the
+northeast corner of the Park, in the region drained by the Gardiner
+River, where there was but little snow, and which we reached on
+horseback.
+
+The second week we visited the geyser region, which lies a thousand
+feet or more higher, and where the snow was still five or six feet
+deep. This part of the journey was made in big sleighs, each drawn by
+two span of horses.
+
+On the horseback excursion, which involved only about fifty miles of
+riding, we had a mule pack train, and Sibley tents and stoves, with
+quite a retinue of camp laborers, a lieutenant and an orderly or two,
+and a guide, Billy Hofer.
+
+The first camp was in a wild, rocky, and picturesque gorge on the
+Yellowstone, about ten miles from the fort. A slight indisposition,
+the result of luxurious living, with no wood to chop or to saw, and no
+hills to climb, as at home, prevented me from joining the party till
+the third day. Then Captain Chittenden drove me eight miles in a
+buggy. About two miles from camp we came to a picket of two or three
+soldiers, where my big bay was in waiting for me. I mounted him
+confidently, and, guided by an orderly, took the narrow, winding trail
+toward camp. Except for an hour's riding the day before with Captain
+Chittenden, I had not been on a horse's back for nearly fifty years,
+and I had not spent as much as a day in the saddle during my youth.
+That first sense of a live, spirited, powerful animal beneath you, at
+whose mercy you are,--you, a pedestrian all your days,--with gullies
+and rocks and logs to cross, and deep chasms opening close beside
+you, is not a little disturbing. But my big bay did his part well, and
+I did not lose my head or my nerve, as we cautiously made our way
+along the narrow path on the side of the steep gorge, with a foaming
+torrent rushing along at its foot, nor yet when we forded the rocky
+and rapid Yellowstone. A misstep or a stumble on the part of my steed,
+and probably the first bubble of my confidence would have been
+shivered at once; but this did not happen, and in due time we reached
+the group of tents that formed the President's camp.
+
+The situation was delightful,--no snow, scattered pine trees, a
+secluded valley, rocky heights, and the clear, ample, trouty waters of
+the Yellowstone. The President was not in camp. In the morning he had
+stated his wish to go alone into the wilderness. Major Pitcher very
+naturally did not quite like the idea, and wished to send an orderly
+with him.
+
+"No," said the President. "Put me up a lunch, and let me go alone. I
+will surely come back."
+
+And back he surely came. It was about five o'clock when he came
+briskly down the path from the east to the camp. It came out that he
+had tramped about eighteen miles through a very rough country. The day
+before, he and the major had located a band of several hundred elk on
+a broad, treeless hillside, and his purpose was to find those elk, and
+creep up on them, and eat his lunch under their very noses. And this
+he did, spending an hour or more within fifty yards of them. He came
+back looking as fresh as when he started, and at night, sitting before
+the big camp fire, related his adventure, and talked with his usual
+emphasis and copiousness of many things. He told me of the birds he
+had seen or heard; among them he had heard one that was new to him.
+From his description I told him I thought it was Townsend's solitaire,
+a bird I much wanted to see and hear. I had heard the West India
+solitaire,--one of the most impressive songsters I ever heard,--and I
+wished to compare our Western form with it.
+
+The next morning we set out for our second camp, ten or a dozen miles
+away, and in reaching it passed over much of the ground the President
+had traversed the day before. As we came to a wild, rocky place above
+a deep chasm of the river, with a few scattered pine trees, the
+President said, "It was right here that I heard that strange bird
+song." We paused a moment. "And there it is now!" he exclaimed.
+
+Sure enough, there was the solitaire singing from the top of a small
+cedar,--a bright, animated, eloquent song, but without the richness
+and magic of the song of the tropical species. We hitched our horses,
+and followed the bird up as it flew from tree to tree. The President
+was as eager to see and hear it as I was. It seemed very shy, and we
+only caught glimpses of it. In form and color it much resembles its
+West India cousin, and suggests our catbird. It ceased to sing when we
+pursued it. It is a bird found only in the wilder and higher parts of
+the Rockies. My impression was that its song did not quite merit the
+encomiums that have been pronounced upon it.
+
+At this point, I saw amid the rocks my first and only Rocky Mountain
+woodchucks, and, soon after we had resumed our journey, our first blue
+grouse,--a number of them like larger partridges. Occasionally we
+would come upon black-tailed deer, standing or lying down in the
+bushes, their large ears at attention being the first thing to catch
+the eye. They would often allow us to pass within a few rods of them
+without showing alarm. Elk horns were scattered all over this part of
+the Park, and we passed several old carcasses of dead elk that had
+probably died a natural death.
+
+In a grassy bottom at the foot of a steep hill, while the President
+and I were dismounted, and noting the pleasing picture which our pack
+train of fifteen or twenty mules made filing along the side of a steep
+grassy slope,--a picture which he has preserved in his late volume,
+"Out-Door Pastimes of an American Hunter,"--our attention was
+attracted by plaintive, musical, bird-like chirps that rose from the
+grass about us. I was almost certain it was made by a bird; the
+President was of like opinion; and we kicked about in the tufts of
+grass, hoping to flush the bird. Now here, now there, arose this
+sharp, but bird-like note. Finally, we found that it was made by a
+species of gopher, whose holes we soon discovered. What its specific
+name is I do not know, but it should be called the singing gopher.
+
+Our destination this day was a camp on Cottonwood Creek, near
+"Hell-Roaring Creek." As we made our way in the afternoon along a
+broad, open, grassy valley, I saw a horseman come galloping over the
+hill to our right, starting up a band of elk as he came; riding across
+the plain, he wheeled his horse, and, with the military salute, joined
+our party. He proved to be a government scout, called the "Duke of
+Hell Roaring,"--an educated officer from the Austrian army, who, for
+some unknown reason, had exiled himself here in this out-of-the-way
+part of the world. He was a man in his prime, of fine, military look
+and bearing. After conversing a few moments with the President and
+Major Pitcher, he rode rapidly away.
+
+Our second camp, which we reached in mid-afternoon, was in the edge of
+the woods on the banks of a fine, large trout stream, where ice and
+snow still lingered in patches. I tried for trout in the head of a
+large, partly open pool, but did not get a rise; too much ice in the
+stream, I concluded. Very soon my attention was attracted by a strange
+note, or call, in the spruce woods. The President had also noticed it,
+and, with me, wondered what made it. Was it bird or beast? Billy Hofer
+said he thought it was an owl, but the sound in no way suggested an
+owl, and the sun was shining brightly. It was a sound such as a boy
+might make by blowing in the neck of an empty bottle. Presently we
+heard it beyond us on the other side of the creek, which was pretty
+good proof that the creature had wings.
+
+    [Illustration: THE PRESIDENT IN THE BEAR COUNTRY
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1905, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York]
+
+"Let's go run that bird down," said the President to me.
+
+So off we started across a small, open, snow-streaked plain, toward
+the woods beyond it. We soon decided that the bird was on the top of
+one of a group of tall spruces. After much skipping about over logs
+and rocks, and much craning of our necks, we made him out on the peak
+of a spruce. I imitated his call, when he turned his head down toward
+us, but we could not make out what he was.
+
+"Why did we not think to bring the glasses?" said the President.
+
+"I will run and get them," I replied.
+
+"No," said he, "you stay here and keep that bird treed, and I will
+fetch them."
+
+So off he went like a boy, and was very soon back with the glasses. We
+quickly made out that it was indeed an owl,--the pigmy owl, as it
+turned out,--not much larger than a bluebird. I think the President
+was as pleased as if we had bagged some big game. He had never seen
+the bird before.
+
+Throughout the trip I found his interest in bird life very keen, and
+his eye and ear remarkably quick. He usually saw the bird or heard its
+note as quickly as I did,--and I had nothing else to think about, and
+had been teaching my eye and ear the trick of it for over fifty years.
+Of course, his training as a big-game hunter stood him in good stead,
+but back of that were his naturalist's instincts, and his genuine love
+of all forms of wild life.
+
+I have been told that his ambition up to the time he went to Harvard
+had been to be a naturalist, but that there they seem to have
+convinced him that all the out-of-door worlds of natural history had
+been conquered, and that the only worlds remaining were in the
+laboratory, and to be won with the microscope and the scalpel. But
+Roosevelt was a man made for action in a wide field, and laboratory
+conquests could not satisfy him. His instincts as a naturalist,
+however, lie back of all his hunting expeditions, and, in a large
+measure, I think, prompt them. Certain it is that his hunting
+records contain more live natural history than any similar records
+known to me, unless it be those of Charles St. John, the Scotch
+naturalist-sportsman.
+
+The Canada jays, or camp-robbers, as they are often called, soon found
+out our camp that afternoon, and no sooner had the cook begun to throw
+out peelings and scraps and crusts than the jays began to carry them
+off, not to eat, as I observed, but to hide them in the thicker
+branches of the spruce trees. How tame they were, coming within three
+or four yards of one! Why this species of jay should everywhere be so
+familiar, and all other kinds so wild, is a puzzle.
+
+In the morning, as we rode down the valley toward our next
+camping-place, at Tower Falls, a band of elk containing a hundred or
+more started along the side of the hill a few hundred yards away. I
+was some distance behind the rest of the party, as usual, when I saw
+the President wheel his horse off to the left, and, beckoning to me to
+follow, start at a tearing pace on the trail of the fleeing elk. He
+afterwards told me that he wanted me to get a good view of those elk
+at close range, and he was afraid that if he sent the major or Hofer
+to lead me, I would not get it. I hurried along as fast as I could,
+which was not fast; the way was rough,--logs, rocks, spring runs, and
+a tenderfoot rider.
+
+Now and then the President, looking back and seeing what slow progress
+I was making, would beckon to me impatiently, and I could fancy him
+saying, "If I had a rope around him, he would come faster than that!"
+Once or twice I lost sight of both him and the elk; the altitude was
+great, and the horse was laboring like a steam engine on an upgrade.
+Still I urged him on. Presently, as I broke over a hill, I saw the
+President pressing the elk up the opposite slope. At the brow of the
+hill he stopped, and I soon joined him. There on the top, not fifty
+yards away, stood the elk in a mass, their heads toward us and their
+tongues hanging out. They could run no farther. The President laughed
+like a boy. The spectacle meant much more to him than it did to me. I
+had never seen a wild elk till on this trip, but they had been among
+the notable game that he had hunted. He had traveled hundreds of
+miles, and undergone great hardships, to get within rifle range of
+these creatures. Now here stood scores of them with lolling tongues,
+begging for mercy.
+
+After gazing at them to our hearts' content, we turned away to look up
+our companions, who were nowhere within sight. We finally spied them a
+mile or more away, and, joining them, all made our way to an elevated
+plateau that commanded an open landscape three or four miles across.
+It was high noon, and the sun shone clear and warm. From this lookout
+we saw herds upon herds of elk scattered over the slopes and gentle
+valleys in front of us. Some were grazing, some were standing or lying
+upon the ground, or upon the patches of snow. Through our glasses we
+counted the separate bands, and then the numbers of some of the bands
+or groups, and estimated that three thousand elk were in full view in
+the landscape around us. It was a notable spectacle. Afterward, in
+Montana, I attended a council of Indian chiefs at one of the Indian
+agencies, and told them, through their interpreter, that I had been
+with the Great Chief in the Park, and of the game we had seen. When I
+told them of these three thousand elk all in view at once, they
+grunted loudly, whether with satisfaction or with incredulity, I could
+not tell.
+
+In the midst of this great game amphitheatre we dismounted and enjoyed
+the prospect. And the President did an unusual thing, he loafed for
+nearly an hour,--stretched himself out in the sunshine upon a flat
+rock, as did the rest of us, and, I hope, got a few winks of sleep. I
+am sure I did. Little, slender, striped chipmunks, about half the size
+of ours, were scurrying about; but I recall no other wild things save
+the elk.
+
+From here we rode down the valley to our third camp, at Tower Falls,
+stopping on the way to eat our luncheon on a washed boulder beside a
+creek. On this ride I saw my first and only badger; he stuck his
+striped head out of his hole in the ground only a few yards away from
+us as we passed.
+
+Our camp at Tower Falls was amid the spruces above a canyon of the
+Yellowstone, five or six hundred feet deep. It was a beautiful and
+impressive situation,--shelter, snugness, even cosiness, looking over
+the brink of the awful and the terrifying. With a run and a jump I
+think one might have landed in the river at the bottom of the great
+abyss, and in doing so might have scaled one of those natural obelisks
+or needles of rock that stand up out of the depths two or three
+hundred feet high. Nature shows you what an enormous furrow her plough
+can open through the strata when moving horizontally, at the same time
+that she shows you what delicate and graceful columns her slower and
+gentler aerial forces can carve out of the piled strata. At the Falls
+there were two or three of these columns, like the picket-pins of the
+elder gods.
+
+Across the canyon in front of our camp, upon a grassy plateau which was
+faced by a wall of trap rock, apparently thirty or forty feet high, a
+band of mountain sheep soon attracted our attention. They were within
+long rifle range, but were not at all disturbed by our presence, nor
+had they been disturbed by the road-builders who, under Captain
+Chittenden, were constructing a government road along the brink of the
+canyon. We speculated as to whether or not the sheep could get down the
+almost perpendicular face of the chasm to the river to drink. It
+seemed to me impossible. Would they try it while we were there to see?
+We all hoped so; and sure enough, late in the afternoon the word came
+to our tents that the sheep were coming down. The President, with coat
+off and a towel around his neck, was shaving. One side of his face was
+half shaved, and the other side lathered. Hofer and I started for a
+point on the brink of the canyon where we could have a better view.
+
+"By Jove," said the President, "I must see that. The shaving can wait,
+and the sheep won't."
+
+So on he came, accoutred as he was,--coatless, hatless, but not
+latherless, nor towelless. Like the rest of us, his only thought was
+to see those sheep do their "stunt." With glasses in hand, we watched
+them descend those perilous heights, leaping from point to point,
+finding a foothold where none appeared to our eyes, loosening
+fragments of the crumbling rocks as they came, now poised upon some
+narrow shelf and preparing for the next leap, zig-zagging or plunging
+straight down till the bottom was reached, and not one accident or
+misstep amid all that insecure footing. I think the President was the
+most pleased of us all; he laughed with the delight of it, and quite
+forgot his need of a hat and coat till I sent for them.
+
+In the night we heard the sheep going back; we could tell by the noise
+of the falling stones. In the morning I confidently expected to see
+some of them lying dead at the foot of the cliffs, but there they all
+were at the top once more, apparently safe and sound. They do,
+however, occasionally meet with accidents in their perilous climbing,
+and their dead bodies have been found at the foot of the rocks.
+Doubtless some point of rock to which they had trusted gave way, and
+crushed them in the descent, or fell upon those in the lead.
+
+The next day, while the rest of us went fishing for trout in the
+Yellowstone, three or four miles above the camp, over the roughest
+trail that we had yet traversed on horseback, the President, who never
+fishes unless put to it for meat, went off alone again with his lunch
+in his pocket, to stalk those sheep as he had stalked the elk, and to
+feel the old sportsman's thrill without the use of firearms. To do
+this involved a tramp of eight or ten miles down the river to a bridge
+and up the opposite bank. This he did, and ate his lunch near the
+sheep, and was back in camp before we were.
+
+We took some large cut-throat trout, as they are called, from the
+yellow mark across their throats, and I saw at short range a
+black-tailed deer bounding along in that curious, stiff-legged,
+mechanical, yet springy manner, apparently all four legs in the air at
+once, and all four feet reaching the ground at once, affording a very
+singular spectacle.
+
+    [Illustration: MR. BURROUGHS'S FAVORITE PASTIME.
+
+    By kind permission of Forest and Stream.]
+
+We spent two nights in our Tower Falls camp, and on the morning of the
+third day set out on our return to Fort Yellowstone, pausing at
+Yancey's on our way, and exchanging greetings with the old
+frontiersman, who died a few weeks later.
+
+While in camp we always had a big fire at night in the open near the
+tents, and around this we sat upon logs or camp-stools, and listened
+to the President's talk. What a stream of it he poured forth! and what
+a varied and picturesque stream!--anecdote, history, science,
+politics, adventure, literature; bits of his experience as a ranchman,
+hunter, Rough Rider, legislator, civil service commissioner, police
+commissioner, governor, president,--the frankest confessions, the most
+telling criticisms, happy characterizations of prominent political
+leaders, or foreign rulers, or members of his own Cabinet; always
+surprising by his candor, astonishing by his memory, and diverting by
+his humor. His reading has been very wide, and he has that rare type
+of memory which retains details as well as mass and generalities. One
+night something started him off on ancient history, and one would have
+thought he was just fresh from his college course in history, the
+dates and names and events came so readily. Another time he discussed
+palaeontology, and rapidly gave the outlines of the science, and the
+main facts, as if he had been reading up on the subject that very day.
+He sees things as wholes, and hence the relation of the parts comes
+easy to him.
+
+At dinner, at the White House, the night before we started on the
+expedition, I heard him talking with a guest,--an officer of the
+British army, who was just back from India. And the extent and variety
+of his information about India and Indian history and the relations of
+the British government to it were extraordinary. It put the British
+major on his mettle to keep pace with him.
+
+One night in camp he told us the story of one of his Rough Riders who
+had just written him from some place in Arizona. The Rough Riders,
+wherever they are now, look to him in time of trouble. This one had
+come to grief in Arizona. He was in jail. So he wrote the President,
+and his letter ran something like this:--
+
+     "DEAR COLONEL,--I am in trouble. I shot a lady in the eye,
+     but I did not intend to hit the lady; I was shooting at my
+     wife."
+
+And the presidential laughter rang out over the tree-tops. To another
+Rough Rider, who was in jail, accused of horse stealing, he had loaned
+two hundred dollars to pay counsel on his trial, and, to his surprise,
+in due time the money came back. The ex-Rough wrote that his trial
+never came off. "_We elected our district attorney_;" and the laughter
+again sounded, and drowned the noise of the brook near by.
+
+On another occasion we asked the President if he was ever molested by
+any of the "bad men" of the frontier, with whom he had often come in
+contact. "Only once," he said. The cowboys had always treated him with
+the utmost courtesy, both on the round-up and in camp; "and the few
+real desperadoes I have seen were also perfectly polite." Once only
+was he maliciously shot at, and then not by a cowboy nor a _bona fide_
+"bad man," but by a "broad-hatted ruffian of a cheap and common-place
+type." He had been compelled to pass the night at a little frontier
+hotel where the bar-room occupied the whole lower floor, and was, in
+consequence, the only place where the guests of the hotel, whether
+drunk or sober, could sit. As he entered the room, he saw that every
+man there was being terrorized by a half-drunken ruffian who stood in
+the middle of the floor with a revolver in each hand, compelling
+different ones to treat.
+
+"I went and sat down behind the stove," said the President, "as far
+from him as I could get; and hoped to escape his notice. The fact that
+I wore glasses, together with my evident desire to avoid a fight,
+apparently gave him the impression that I could be imposed upon with
+impunity. He very soon approached me, flourishing his two guns, and
+ordered me to treat. I made no reply for some moments, when the fellow
+became so threatening that I saw something had to be done. The crowd,
+mostly sheep-herders and small grangers, sat or stood back against the
+wall, afraid to move. I was unarmed, and thought rapidly. Saying,
+'Well, if I must, I must,' I got up as if to walk around him to the
+bar, then, as I got opposite him, I wheeled and fetched him as heavy a
+blow on the chin-point as I could strike. He went down like a steer
+before the axe, firing both guns into the ceiling as he went. I jumped
+on him, and, with my knees on his chest, disarmed him in a hurry. The
+crowd was then ready enough to help me, and we hog-tied him and put
+him in an outhouse." The President alludes to this incident in his
+"Ranch Life," but does not give the details. It brings out his mettle
+very distinctly.
+
+He told us in an amused way of the attempts of his political opponents
+at Albany, during his early career as a member of the Assembly, to
+besmirch his character. His outspoken criticisms and denunciations had
+become intolerable to them, so they laid a trap for him, but he was
+not caught. His innate rectitude and instinct for the right course
+saved him, as it has saved him many times since. I do not think that
+in any emergency he has to debate with himself long as to the right
+course to be pursued; he divines it by a kind of infallible instinct.
+His motives are so simple and direct that he finds a straight and easy
+course where another man, whose eye is less single, would flounder and
+hesitate.
+
+One night he entertained us with reminiscences of the Cuban War, of
+his efforts to get his men to the firing line when the fighting began,
+of his greenness and general ignorance of the whole business of war,
+which in his telling was very amusing. He has probably put it all in
+his book about the war, a work I have not yet read. He described the
+look of the slope of Kettle Hill when they were about to charge up it,
+how the grass was combed and rippled by the storm of rifle bullets
+that swept down it. He said, "I was conscious of being pale when I
+looked at it and knew that in a few moments we were going to charge
+there." The men of his regiment were all lying flat upon the ground,
+and it became his duty to walk along their front and encourage them
+and order them up on their feet. "Get up, men, get up!" One big fellow
+did not rise. Roosevelt stooped down and took hold of him and ordered
+him up. Just at that moment a bullet struck the man and went the
+entire length of him. He never rose.
+
+On this or on another occasion when a charge was ordered, he found
+himself a hundred yards or more in advance of his regiment, with only
+the color bearer and one corporal with him. He said they planted the
+flag there, while he rushed back to fetch the men. He was evidently
+pretty hot. "Can it be that you flinched when I led the way!" and then
+they came with a rush. On the summit of Kettle Hill he was again in
+advance of his men, and as he came up, three Spaniards rose out of the
+trenches and deliberately fired at him at a distance of only a few
+paces, and then turned and fled. But a bullet from his revolver
+stopped one of them. He seems to have been as much exposed to bullets
+in this engagement as Washington was at Braddock's defeat, and to have
+escaped in the same marvelous manner.
+
+The President unites in himself powers and qualities that rarely go
+together. Thus, he has both physical and moral courage in a degree
+rare in history. He can stand calm and unflinching in the path of a
+charging grizzly, and he can confront with equal coolness and
+determination the predaceous corporations and money powers of the
+country.
+
+He unites the qualities of the man of action with those of the scholar
+and writer,--another very rare combination. He unites the instincts
+and accomplishments of the best breeding and culture with the broadest
+democratic sympathies and affiliations. He is as happy with a
+frontiersman like Seth Bullock as with a fellow Harvard man, and Seth
+Bullock is happy, too.
+
+He unites great austerity with great good nature. He unites great
+sensibility with great force and will power. He loves solitude, and he
+loves to be in the thick of the fight. His love of nature is equaled
+only by his love of the ways and marts of men.
+
+He is doubtless the most vital man on the continent, if not on the
+planet, to-day. He is many-sided, and every side throbs with his
+tremendous life and energy; the pressure is equal all around. His
+interests are as keen in natural history as in economics, in
+literature as in statecraft, in the young poet as in the old soldier,
+in preserving peace as in preparing for war. And he can turn all his
+great power into the new channel on the instant. His interest in the
+whole of life, and in the whole life of the nation, never flags for a
+moment. His activity is tireless. All the relaxation he needs or
+craves is a change of work. He is like the farmer's fields, that only
+need a rotation of crops. I once heard him say that all he cared about
+being President was just "the big work."
+
+During this tour through the West, lasting over two months, he made
+nearly three hundred speeches; and yet on his return Mrs. Roosevelt
+told me he looked as fresh and unworn as when he left home.
+
+We went up into the big geyser region with the big sleighs, each drawn
+by four horses. A big snow-bank had to be shoveled through for us
+before we got to the Golden Gate, two miles above Mammoth Hot
+Springs. Beyond that we were at an altitude of about eight thousand
+feet, on a fairly level course that led now through woods, and now
+through open country, with the snow of a uniform depth of four or five
+feet, except as we neared the "formations," where the subterranean
+warmth kept the ground bare. The roads had been broken and the snow
+packed for us by teams from the fort, otherwise the journey would have
+been impossible.
+
+The President always rode beside the driver. From his youth, he said,
+this seat had always been the most desirable one to him. When the
+sleigh would strike the bare ground, and begin to drag heavily, he
+would bound out nimbly and take to his heels, and then all three of
+us--Major Pitcher, Mr. Childs, and myself--would follow suit,
+sometimes reluctantly on my part. Walking at that altitude is no fun,
+especially if you try to keep pace with such a walker as the President
+is. But he could not sit at his ease and let those horses drag him in
+a sleigh over bare ground. When snow was reached, we would again
+quickly resume our seats.
+
+As one nears the geyser region, he gets the impression from the
+columns of steam going up here and there in the distance--now from
+behind a piece of woods, now from out a hidden valley--that he is
+approaching a manufacturing centre, or a railroad terminus. And when
+he begins to hear the hoarse snoring of "Roaring Mountain," the
+illusion is still more complete. At Norris's there is a big vent where
+the steam comes tearing out of a recent hole in the ground with
+terrific force. Huge mounds of ice had formed from the congealed vapor
+all around it, some of them very striking.
+
+The novelty of the geyser region soon wears off. Steam and hot water
+are steam and hot water the world over, and the exhibition of them
+here did not differ, except in volume, from what one sees by his own
+fireside. The "Growler" is only a boiling tea-kettle on a large scale,
+and "Old Faithful" is as if the lid were to fly off, and the whole
+contents of the kettle should be thrown high into the air. To be sure,
+boiling lakes and steaming rivers are not common, but the new features
+seemed, somehow, out of place, and as if nature had made a mistake.
+One disliked to see so much good steam and hot water going to waste;
+whole towns might be warmed by them, and big wheels made to go round.
+I wondered that they had not piped them into the big hotels which they
+opened for us, and which were warmed by wood fires.
+
+    [Illustration: SUNRISE IN YELLOWSTONE PARK.
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1904, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York.]
+
+At Norris's the big room that the President and I occupied was on the
+ground floor, and was heated by a huge box stove. As we entered it to
+go to bed, the President said, "Oom John, don't you think it is too
+hot here?"
+
+"I certainly do," I replied.
+
+"Shall I open the window?"
+
+"That will just suit me." And he threw the sash, which came down to
+the floor, all the way up, making an opening like a doorway. The night
+was cold, but neither of us suffered from the abundance of fresh air.
+
+The caretaker of the building was a big Swede called Andy. In the
+morning Andy said that beat him: "There was the President of the
+United States sleeping in that room, with the window open to the
+floor, and not so much as one soldier outside on guard."
+
+The President had counted much on seeing the bears that in summer
+board at the Fountain Hotel, but they were not yet out of their dens.
+We saw the track of only one, and he was not making for the hotel. At
+all the formations where the geysers are, the ground was bare over a
+large area. I even saw a wild flower--an early buttercup, not an inch
+high--in bloom. This seems to be the earliest wild flower in the
+Rockies. It is the only fragrant buttercup I know.
+
+As we were riding along in our big sleigh toward the Fountain Hotel,
+the President suddenly jumped out, and, with his soft hat as a shield
+to his hand, captured a mouse that was running along over the ground
+near us. He wanted it for Dr. Merriam, on the chance that it might be
+a new species. While we all went fishing in the afternoon, the
+President skinned his mouse, and prepared the pelt to be sent to
+Washington. It was done as neatly as a professed taxidermist would
+have done it. This was the only game the President killed in the
+Park. In relating the incident to a reporter while I was in Spokane,
+the thought occurred to me, Suppose he changes that _u_ to an _o_, and
+makes the President capture a moose, what a pickle I shall be in! Is
+it anything more than ordinary newspaper enterprise to turn a mouse
+into a moose? But, luckily for me, no such metamorphosis happened to
+that little mouse. It turned out not to be a new species, as it should
+have been, but a species new to the Park.
+
+I caught trout that afternoon, on the edge of steaming pools in the
+Madison River that seemed to my hand almost blood-warm. I suppose they
+found better feeding where the water was warm. On the table they did
+not compare with our Eastern brook trout.
+
+I was pleased to be told at one of the hotels that they had kalsomined
+some of the rooms with material from one of the devil's paint-pots.
+It imparted a soft, delicate, pinkish tint, not at all suggestive of
+things satanic.
+
+One afternoon at Norris's, the President and I took a walk to observe
+the birds. In the grove about the barns there was a great number, the
+most attractive to me being the mountain bluebird. These birds we saw
+in all parts of the Park, and at Norris's there was an unusual number
+of them. How blue they were,--breast and all! In voice and manner they
+were almost identical with our bluebird. The Western purple finch was
+abundant here also, and juncos, and several kinds of sparrows, with an
+occasional Western robin. A pair of wild geese were feeding in the
+low, marshy ground not over one hundred yards from us, but when we
+tried to approach nearer they took wing. A few geese and ducks seem to
+winter in the Park.
+
+The second morning at Norris's one of our teamsters, George Marvin,
+suddenly dropped dead from some heart affection, just as he had
+finished caring for his team. It was a great shock to us all. I never
+saw a better man with a team than he was. I had ridden on the seat
+beside him all the day previous. On one of the "formations" our teams
+had got mired in the soft, putty-like mud, and at one time it looked
+as if they could never extricate themselves, and I doubt if they could
+have, had it not been for the skill with which Marvin managed them. We
+started for the Grand Canyon up the Yellowstone that morning, and, in
+order to give myself a walk over the crisp snow in the clear, frosty
+air, I set out a little while in advance of the teams. As I did so, I
+saw the President, accompanied by one of the teamsters, walking
+hurriedly toward the barn to pay his last respects to the body of
+Marvin. After we had returned to Mammoth Hot Springs, he made
+inquiries for the young woman to whom he had been told that Marvin was
+engaged to be married. He looked her up, and sat a long time with her
+in her home, offering his sympathy, and speaking words of consolation.
+The act shows the depth and breadth of his humanity.
+
+At the Canyon Hotel the snow was very deep, and had become so soft from
+the warmth of the earth beneath, as well as from the sun above, that
+we could only reach the brink of the Canyon on skis. The President and
+Major Pitcher had used skis before, but I had not, and, starting out
+without the customary pole, I soon came to grief. The snow gave way
+beneath me, and I was soon in an awkward predicament. The more I
+struggled, the lower my head and shoulders went, till only my heels,
+strapped to those long timbers, protruded above the snow. To reverse
+my position was impossible till some one came and reached me the end
+of a pole, and pulled me upright. But I very soon got the hang of the
+things, and the President and I quickly left the superintendent
+behind. I think I could have passed the President, but my manners
+forbade. He was heavier than I was, and broke in more. When one of his
+feet would go down half a yard or more, I noted with admiration the
+skilled diplomacy he displayed in extricating it. The tendency of my
+skis was all the time to diverge, and each to go off at an acute angle
+to my main course, and I had constantly to be on the alert to check
+this tendency.
+
+Paths had been shoveled for us along the brink of the Canyon, so that
+we got the usual views from the different points. The Canyon was nearly
+free from snow, and was a grand spectacle, by far the grandest to be
+seen in the Park. The President told us that once, when pressed for
+meat, while returning through here from one of his hunting trips, he
+had made his way down to the river that we saw rushing along beneath
+us, and had caught some trout for dinner. Necessity alone could induce
+him to fish.
+
+Across the head of the Falls there was a bridge of snow and ice, upon
+which we were told that the coyotes passed. As the season progressed,
+there would come a day when the bridge would not be safe. It would be
+interesting to know if the coyotes knew when this time arrived.
+
+The only live thing we saw in the Canyon was an osprey perched upon a
+rock opposite us.
+
+    [Illustration: THE PRESIDENT ON A TRAIL
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1905, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York]
+
+Near the falls of the Yellowstone, as at other places we had visited,
+a squad of soldiers had their winter quarters. The President called on
+them, as he had called upon the others, looked over the books they had
+to read, examined their housekeeping arrangements, and conversed
+freely with them.
+
+In front of the hotel were some low hills separated by gentle valleys.
+At the President's suggestion, he and I raced on our skis down those
+inclines. We had only to stand up straight, and let gravity do the
+rest. As we were going swiftly down the side of one of the hills, I
+saw out of the corner of my eye the President taking a header into the
+snow. The snow had given way beneath him, and nothing could save him
+from taking the plunge. I don't know whether I called out, or only
+thought, something about the downfall of the administration. At any
+rate, the administration was down, and pretty well buried, but it was
+quickly on its feet again, shaking off the snow with a boy's
+laughter. I kept straight on, and very soon the laugh was on me, for
+the treacherous snow sank beneath me, and I took a header, too.
+
+"Who is laughing now, Oom John?" called out the President.
+
+The spirit of the boy was in the air that day about the Canyon of the
+Yellowstone, and the biggest boy of us all was President Roosevelt.
+
+The snow was getting so soft in the middle of the day that our return
+to the Mammoth Hot Springs could no longer be delayed. Accordingly, we
+were up in the morning, and ready to start on the home journey, a
+distance of twenty miles, by four o'clock. The snow bore up the horses
+well till mid-forenoon, when it began to give way beneath them. But by
+very careful management we pulled through without serious delay, and
+were back again at the house of Major Pitcher in time for luncheon,
+being the only outsiders who had ever made the tour of the Park so
+early in the season.
+
+A few days later I bade good-by to the President, who went on his way
+to California, while I made a loop of travel to Spokane, and around
+through Idaho and Montana, and had glimpses of the great, optimistic,
+sunshiny West that I shall not soon forget.
+
+
+
+
+PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT AS A NATURE-LOVER AND OBSERVER
+
+
+
+
+PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT AS A NATURE-LOVER AND OBSERVER
+
+
+Our many-sided President has a side to his nature of which the public
+has heard but little, and which, in view of his recent criticism of
+what he calls the nature fakirs, is of especial interest and
+importance. I refer to his keenness and enthusiasm as a student of
+animal life, and his extraordinary powers of observation. The charge
+recently made against him that he is only a sportsman and has only a
+sportsman's interest in nature is very wide of the mark. Why, I cannot
+now recall that I have ever met a man with a keener and more
+comprehensive interest in the wild life about us--an interest that is
+at once scientific and thoroughly human. And by human I do not mean
+anything akin to the sentimentalism that sicklies o'er so much of our
+more recent natural history writing, and that inspires the founding of
+hospitals for sick cats; but I mean his robust, manly love for all
+open-air life, and his sympathetic insight into it. When I first read
+his "Wilderness Hunter," many years ago, I was impressed by his rare
+combination of the sportsman and the naturalist. When I accompanied
+him on his trip to the Yellowstone Park in April, 1903, I got a fresh
+impression of the extent of his natural history knowledge and of his
+trained powers of observation. Nothing escaped him, from bears to
+mice, from wild geese to chickadees, from elk to red squirrels; he
+took it all in, and he took it in as only an alert, vigorous mind can
+take it in. On that occasion I was able to help him identify only one
+new bird, as I have related in the foregoing chapter. All the other
+birds he recognized as quickly as I did.
+
+During a recent half-day spent with the President at Sagamore Hill I
+got a still more vivid impression of his keenness and quickness in all
+natural history matters. The one passion of his life seemed natural
+history, and the appearance of a new warbler in his woods--new in the
+breeding season on Long Island--seemed an event that threw the affairs
+of state and of the presidential succession quite into the background.
+Indeed, he fairly bubbled over with delight at the thought of his new
+birds and at the prospect of showing them to his visitors. He said to
+my friend who accompanied me, John Lewis Childs, of Floral Park, a
+former State Senator, that he could not talk politics then, he wanted
+to talk and to hunt birds. And it was not long before he was as hot
+on the trail of that new warbler as he had recently been on the trail
+of some of the great trusts. Fancy a President of the United States
+stalking rapidly across bushy fields to the woods, eager as a boy and
+filled with the one idea of showing to his visitors the black-throated
+green warbler! We were presently in the edge of the woods and standing
+under a locust tree, where the President had several times seen and
+heard his rare visitant. "That's his note now," he said, and we all
+three recognized it at the same instant. It came from across a little
+valley fifty yards farther in the woods. We were soon standing under
+the tree in which the bird was singing, and presently had our glasses
+upon him.
+
+    [Illustration: THE PRESIDENT'S HOME ON SAGAMORE HILL, SHOWING
+    ADDITION KNOWN AS THE TROPHY ROOM
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1907, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York]
+
+"There is no mistake about it, Mr. President," we both said; "it is
+surely the black-throated green," and he laughed in glee. "I knew it
+could be no other; there is no mistaking that song and those markings.
+'Trees, trees, murmuring trees!' some one reports him as saying. Now
+if we could only find the nest;" but we did not, though it was
+doubtless not far off.
+
+Our warblers, both in color and in song, are bewildering even to the
+experienced ornithologist, but the President had mastered most of
+them. Not long before he had written me from Washington that he had
+just come in from walking with Mrs. Roosevelt about the White House
+grounds looking up arriving warblers. "Most of the warblers were up in
+the tops of the trees, and I could not get a good glimpse of them; but
+there was one with chestnut cheeks, with bright yellow behind the
+cheeks, and a yellow breast thickly streaked with black, which has
+puzzled me. Doubtless it is a very common kind which has for the
+moment slipped my memory. I saw the Blackburnian, the summer
+yellowbird, and the black-throated green." The next day he wrote me
+that he had identified the puzzling warbler; it was the Cape May.
+There is a tradition among newspaper men in Washington that a Cape May
+warbler once broke up a Cabinet meeting; maybe this was that identical
+bird.
+
+At luncheon he told us of some of his ornithological excursions in the
+White House grounds, how people would stare at him as he stood gazing
+up into the trees like one demented. "No doubt they thought me
+insane." "Yes," said Mrs. Roosevelt, "and as I was always with him,
+they no doubt thought I was the nurse that had him in charge."
+
+In his "Pastimes of an American Hunter" he tells of the owls that in
+June sometimes came after nightfall about the White House. "Sometimes
+they flew noiselessly to and fro, and seemingly caught big insects on
+the wing. At other times they would perch on the iron awning bars
+directly overhead. Once one of them perched over one of the windows
+and sat motionless, looking exactly like an owl of Pallas Athene."
+
+He knew the vireos also, and had seen and heard the white-eyed at his
+Virginia place, "Pine Knot," and he described its peculiar, emphatic
+song. As I moved along with the thought of this bird in mind and its
+snappy, incisive song, as I used to hear it in the old days near
+Washington, I fancied I caught its note in a dense bushy place below
+us. We paused to listen. "A catbird," said the President, and so we
+all agreed. We saw and heard a chewink. "Out West the chewink calls
+like a catbird," he observed. Continuing our walk, we skirted the edge
+of an orchard. Here the President called our attention to a
+high-hole's nest in a cavity of an old apple tree. He rapped on the
+trunk of the tree that we might hear the smothered cry for food of the
+young inside. A few days before he had found one of the half-fledged
+young on the ground under the tree, and had managed to reach up and
+drop it back into the nest. "What a boiling there was in there," he
+said, "when the youngster dropped in!"
+
+A cuckoo called in a tree overhead, the first I had heard this season.
+I feared the cold spring had cut them off. "The yellow-billed,
+undoubtedly," the President observed, and was confirmed by Mr. Childs.
+I was not certain that I knew the call of the yellow-billed from that
+of the black-billed. "We have them both," said the President, "but the
+yellow-billed is the more common."
+
+We continued our walk along a path that led down through a most
+delightful wood to the bay. Everywhere the marks of the President's
+axe were visible, as he had with his own hand thinned out and cleared
+up a large section of the wood.
+
+A few days previous he had seen some birds in a group of tulip-trees
+near the edge of the woods facing the water; he thought they were
+rose-breasted grosbeaks, but could not quite make them out. He had
+hoped to find them there now, and we looked and listened for some
+moments, but no birds appeared.
+
+Then he led us to a little pond in the midst of the forest where the
+night heron sometimes nested. A pair of them had nested there in a big
+water maple the year before, but the crows had broken them up. As we
+reached the spot the cry of the heron was heard over the tree-tops.
+"That is its alarm note," said the President. I remarked that it was
+much like the cry of the little green heron. "Yes, it is, but if we
+wait here till the heron returns, and we are not discovered, you would
+hear his other more characteristic call, a hoarse quawk."
+
+Presently we moved on along another path through the woods toward the
+house. A large, wide-spreading oak attracted my attention--a superb
+tree.
+
+"You see by the branching of that oak," said the President, "that when
+it grew up this wood was an open field and maybe under the plough; it
+is only in fields that oaks take that form." I knew it was true, but
+my mind did not take in the fact when I first saw the tree. His mind
+acts with wonderful swiftness and completeness, as I had abundant
+proof that day.
+
+    [Illustration: A BIT OF WOODLAND ON THE SLOPE TOWARDS OYSTER
+    BAY
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1907, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York]
+
+As we walked along we discussed many questions, all bearing directly
+or indirectly upon natural history. The conversation was perpetually
+interrupted by some bird-note in the trees about us which we would
+pause to identify--the President's ear, I thought, being the most
+alert of the three. Continuing the talk, he dwelt upon the inaccuracy
+of most persons' seeing, and upon the unreliability as natural history
+of most of the stories told by guides and hunters. Sometimes writers
+of repute were to be read with caution. He mentioned that excellent
+hunting book of Colonel Dodge's, in which are described two species of
+the puma, one in the West called the "mountain lion," very fierce and
+dangerous; the other called in the East the "panther,"--a harmless and
+cowardly animal. "Both the same species," said the President, "and
+almost identical in disposition."
+
+Nothing is harder than to convince a person that he has seen wrongly.
+The other day a doctor accosted me in the street of one of our inland
+towns to tell me of a strange bird he had seen; the bird was
+blood-red all over and was in some low bushes by the roadside. Of
+course I thought of our scarlet tanager, which was then just arriving.
+No, he knew that bird with black wings and tail; this bird had no
+black upon it, but every quill and feather was vivid scarlet. The
+doctor was very positive, so I had to tell him we had no such bird in
+our state. There was the summer redbird common in the Southern States,
+but this place is much beyond its northern limit, and, besides, this
+bird is not scarlet, but is of a dull red. Of course he had seen a
+tanager, but in the shade of the bushes the black of the wings and
+tail had escaped him.
+
+This was simply a case of mis-seeing in an educated man; but in the
+untrained minds of trappers and woodsmen generally there is an element
+of the superstitious, and a love for the marvelous, which often
+prevents them from seeing the wild life about them just as it is. They
+possess the mythopoeic faculty, and they unconsciously give play to
+it.
+
+Thus our talk wandered as we wandered along the woods and field paths.
+The President brought us back by the corner of a clover meadow where
+he was sure a pair of red-shouldered starlings had a nest. He knew it
+was an unlikely place for starlings to nest, as they breed in marshes
+and along streams and in the low bushes on lake borders, but this pair
+had always shown great uneasiness when he had approached this plot of
+tall clover. As we drew near, the male starling appeared and uttered
+his alarm note. The President struck out to look for the nest, and for
+a time the Administration was indeed in clover, with the alarmed
+black-bird circling above it and showing great agitation. For my
+part, I hesitated on the edge of the clover patch, having a farmer's
+dread of seeing fine grass trampled down. I suggested to the President
+that he was injuring his hay crop; that the nest was undoubtedly there
+or near there; so he came out of the tall grass, and, after looking
+into the old tumbled-down barn--a regular early settler's barn, with
+huge timbers hewn from forest trees--that stood near by, and which the
+President said he preserved for its picturesqueness and its savor of
+old times, as well as for a place to romp in with his dogs and
+children, we made our way to the house.
+
+The purple finch nested in the trees about the house, and the
+President was greatly pleased that he was able to show us this bird
+also.
+
+    [Illustration: A PATH IN THE WOODS LEADING TO COLD SPRING
+    HARBOR
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1907, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York]
+
+A few days previous to our visit the children had found a bird's nest
+on the ground, in the grass, a few yards below the front of the house.
+There were young birds in it, and as the President had seen the
+grasshopper sparrow about there, he concluded the nest belonged to it.
+We went down to investigate it, and found the young gone and two
+addled eggs in the nest. When the President saw those eggs, he said:
+"That is not the nest of the grasshopper sparrow, after all; those are
+the eggs of the song sparrow, though the nest is more like that of the
+vesper sparrow. The eggs of the grasshopper sparrow are much lighter
+in color--almost white, with brown specks." For my part, I had quite
+forgotten for the moment how the eggs of the little sparrow looked or
+differed in color from those of the song sparrow. But the President
+has so little to remember that he forgets none of these minor things!
+His bird-lore and wood-lore seem as fresh as if just learned.
+
+I asked him if he ever heard that rare piece of bird music, the flight
+song of the oven-bird. "Yes," he replied, "we frequently hear it of an
+evening, while we are sitting on the porch, right down there at the
+corner of the woods." Now, this flight song of the oven-bird was
+unknown to the older ornithologists, and Thoreau, with all his years
+of patient and tireless watching of birds and plants, never identified
+it; but the President had caught it quickly and easily, sitting on his
+porch at Sagamore Hill. I believe I may take the credit of being the
+first to identify and describe this song--back in the old "Wake Robin"
+days.
+
+In an inscription in a book the President had just given me he had
+referred to himself as my pupil. Now I was to be his pupil. In dealing
+with the birds I could keep pace with him pretty easily, and, maybe,
+occasionally lead him; but when we came to consider big game and the
+animal life of the globe, I was nowhere. His experience with the big
+game has been very extensive, and his acquaintance with the literature
+of the subject is far beyond my own; and he forgets nothing, while my
+memory is a sieve. In his study he set before me a small bronze
+elephant in action, made by the famous French sculptor Barye. He asked
+me if I saw anything wrong with it. I looked it over carefully, and
+was obliged to confess that, so far as I could see, it was all right.
+Then he placed before me another, by a Japanese artist. Instantly I
+saw what was wrong with the Frenchman's elephant. Its action was like
+that of a horse or a cow, or any trotting animal--a hind and a front
+foot on opposite sides moving together. The Japanese had caught the
+real movement of the animal, which is that of a pacer--both legs on
+the same side at a time. What different effects the two actions gave
+the statuettes! The free swing of the Japanese elephant you at once
+recognize as the real thing. The President laughed, and said he had
+never seen any criticism of Barye's elephant on this ground, or any
+allusion to his mistake; it was his own discovery. I was fairly beaten
+at my own game of observation.
+
+He then took down a copy of his "Ranch Life and the Hunting Trail,"
+and pointed out to me the mistakes the artist had made in some of his
+drawings of big Western game.
+
+"Do you see anything wrong in the head of the pronghorn?" he asked,
+referring to the animal which the hunter is bringing in on the saddle
+behind him. Again I had to confess that I could not. Then he showed me
+the mounted head of a pronghorn over the mantel in one of his rooms,
+and called my attention to the fact that the eye was close under the
+root of the horn, whereas in the picture the artist had placed it
+about two inches too low. And in the artist's picture of the
+pronghorn, which heads Chapter IX, he had made the tail much too long,
+as he had the tail of the elk on the opposite page.
+
+I had heard of Mr. Roosevelt's attending a fair in Orange County,
+while he was Governor, where a group of mounted deer were exhibited.
+It seems the group had had rough usage, and one of the deer had lost
+its tail and a new one had been supplied. No one had noticed anything
+wrong with it till Mr. Roosevelt came along. "But the minute he
+clapped his eyes on that group," says the exhibitor, "he called out,
+'Here, Gunther, what do you mean by putting a white-tail deer's tail
+on a black-tail deer?" Such closeness and accuracy of observation even
+few naturalists can lay claim to. I mentioned the incident to him,
+and he recalled it laughingly. He then took down a volume on the deer
+family which he had himself had a share in writing, and pointed out
+two mistakes in the naming of the pictures which had been overlooked.
+The picture of the "white-tail in flight" was the black-tail of
+Colorado, and the picture of the black-tail of Colorado showed the
+black-tail of Columbia--the difference this time being seen in the
+branching of the horns.
+
+The President took us through his house and showed us his trophies of
+the chase--bearskins of all sorts and sizes on the floors, panther and
+lynx skins on the chairs, and elk heads and deer heads on the walls,
+and one very large skin of the gray timber wolf. We examined the teeth
+of the wolf, barely more than an inch long, and we all laughed at the
+idea of its reaching the heart of a caribou through the breast by a
+snap, or any number of snaps, as it has been reported to do. I doubt
+if it could have reached the heart of a gobbler turkey in that way at
+a single snap.
+
+    [Illustration: A YEARLING IN THE APPLE ORCHARD
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1907, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York]
+
+The President's interest in birds, and in natural history generally,
+dates from his youth. While yet in his teens he published a list of
+the birds of Franklin County, New York. He showed me a bird journal
+which he kept in Egypt when he was a lad of fourteen, and a case of
+three African plovers which he had set up at that time; and they were
+well done.
+
+Evidently one of his chief sources of pleasure at Sagamore Hill is the
+companionship of the birds. He missed the bobolink, the seaside finch,
+and the marsh wren, but his woods and grounds abounded in other
+species. He knew and enjoyed not only all the more common birds, but
+many rarer and shyer ones that few country people ever take note
+of--such as the Maryland yellow-throat, the black and white creeper,
+the yellow-breasted chat, the oven-bird, the prairie warbler, the
+great crested flycatcher, the wood pewee, and the sharp-tailed finch.
+He enjoyed the little owls, too. "It is a pity the little-eared owl is
+called a screech owl. Its tremulous, quavering cry is not a screech at
+all, and has an attraction of its own. These little owls come up to
+the house after dark, and are fond of sitting on the elk's antlers
+over the gable. When the moon is up, by choosing one's position, the
+little owl appears in sharp outline against the bright disk, seated on
+his many-tined perch."
+
+A few days after my visit he wrote me that he had identified the
+yellow-throated or Dominican warbler in his woods, the first he had
+ever seen. I had to confess to him that I had never seen the bird. It
+is very rare north of Maryland. The same letter records several
+interesting little incidents in the wild life about him:
+
+"The other night I took out the boys in rowboats for a camping-out
+expedition. We camped on the beach under a low bluff near the grove
+where a few years ago on a similar expedition we saw a red fox. This
+time two young foxes, evidently this year's cubs, came around the camp
+half a dozen times during the night, coming up within ten yards of the
+fire to pick up scraps and seeming to be very little bothered by our
+presence. Yesterday on the tennis ground I found a mole shrew. He was
+near the side lines first. I picked him up in my handkerchief, for he
+bit my hand, and after we had all looked at him I let him go; but in a
+few minutes he came back and deliberately crossed the tennis grounds
+by the net. As he ran over the level floor of the court, his motion
+reminded all of us of the motion of those mechanical mice that run
+around on wheels when wound up. A chipmunk that lives near the tennis
+court continually crosses it when the game is in progress. He has done
+it two or three times this year, and either he or his predecessor has
+had the same habit for several years. I am really puzzled to know why
+he should go across this perfectly bare surface, with the players
+jumping about on it, when he is not frightened and has no reason that
+I can see for going. Apparently he grows accustomed to the players and
+moves about among them as he would move about, for instance, among a
+herd of cattle."
+
+The President is a born nature-lover, and he has what does not always
+go with this passion--remarkable powers of observation. He sees
+quickly and surely, not less so with the corporeal eye than with the
+mental. His exceptional vitality, his awareness all around, gives the
+clue to his powers of seeing. The chief qualification of a born
+observer is an alert, sensitive, objective type of mind, and this
+Roosevelt has in a preeminent degree.
+
+You may know the true observer, not by the big things he sees, but by
+the little things; and then not by the things he sees with effort and
+premeditation, but by his effortless, unpremeditated seeing--the
+quick, spontaneous action of his mind in the presence of natural
+objects. Everybody sees the big things, and anybody can go out with
+note-book and opera-glass and make a dead set at the birds, or can go
+into the northern forests and interview guides and trappers and
+Indians, and stare in at the door of the "school of the woods." None
+of these things evince powers of observation; they only evince
+industry and intention. In fact, born observers are about as rare as
+born poets. Plenty of men can see straight and report straight what
+they see; but the men who see what others miss, who see quickly and
+surely, who have the detective eye, like Sherlock Holmes, who "get the
+drop," so to speak, on every object, who see minutely and who see
+whole, are rare indeed.
+
+President Roosevelt comes as near fulfilling this ideal as any man I
+have known. His mind moves with wonderful celerity, and yet as an
+observer he is very cautious, jumps to no hasty conclusions.
+
+He had written me, toward the end of May, that while at Pine Knot in
+Virginia he had seen a small flock of passenger pigeons. As I had been
+following up the reports of wild pigeons from various parts of our
+own state during the past two or three years, this statement of the
+President's made me prick up my ears. In my reply I said, "I hope you
+are sure about those pigeons," and I told him of my interest in the
+subject, and also how all reports of pigeons in the East had been
+discredited by a man in Michigan who was writing a book on the
+subject. This made him prick up his ears, and he replied that while he
+felt very certain he had seen a small band of the old wild pigeons,
+yet he might have been deceived; the eye sometimes plays one tricks.
+He said that in his old ranch days he and a cowboy companion thought
+one day that they had discovered a colony of _black_ prairie dogs,
+thanks entirely to the peculiar angle at which the light struck them.
+He said that while he was President he did not want to make any
+statement, even about pigeons, for the truth of which he did not have
+good evidence. He would have the matter looked into by a friend at
+Pine Knot upon whom he could depend. He did so, and convinced himself
+and me also that he had really seen wild pigeons. I had the pleasure
+of telling him that in the same mail with his letter came the news to
+me of a large flock of wild pigeons having been seen near the
+Beaverkill in Sullivan County, New York. While he was verifying his
+observation I was in Sullivan County verifying this report. I saw and
+questioned persons who had seen the pigeons, and I came away fully
+convinced that a flock of probably a thousand birds had been seen
+there late in the afternoon of May 23. "You need have no doubt about
+it," said the most competent witness, an old farmer. "I lived here
+when the pigeons nested here in countless numbers forty years ago. I
+know pigeons as I know folks, and these were pigeons."
+
+    [Illustration: HALLWAY, SAGAMORE HILL
+
+    From stereograph, copyright 1907, by Underwood & Underwood,
+    New York]
+
+I mention this incident of the pigeons because I know that the fact
+that they have been lately seen in considerable numbers will be good
+news to a large number of readers.
+
+The President's nature-love is deep and abiding. Not every bird
+student succeeds in making the birds a part of his life. Not till you
+have long and sympathetic intercourse with them, in fact, not till you
+have loved them for their own sake, do they enter into and become a
+part of your life. I could quote many passages from President
+Roosevelt's books which show how he has felt and loved the birds, and
+how discriminating his ear is with regard to their songs. Here is
+one:--
+
+"The meadow-lark is a singer of a higher order [than the plains
+skylark], deserving to rank with the best. Its song has length,
+variety, power, and rich melody, and there is in it sometimes a
+cadence of wild sadness inexpressibly touching. Yet I cannot say that
+either song would appeal to others as it appeals to me; for to me it
+comes forever laden with a hundred memories and associations--with the
+sight of dim hills reddening in the dawn, with the breath of cool
+morning winds blowing across lonely plains, with the scent of flowers
+on the sunlit prairie, with the motion of fiery horses, with all the
+strong thrill of eager and buoyant life. I doubt if any man can judge
+dispassionately the bird-songs of his own country; he cannot
+disassociate them from the sights and sounds of the land that is so
+dear to him."
+
+Here is another, touching upon some European song-birds as compared
+with some of our own: "No one can help liking the lark; it is such a
+brave, honest, cheery bird, and moreover its song is uttered in the
+air, and is very long-sustained. But it is by no means a musician of
+the first rank. The nightingale is a performer of a very different and
+far higher order; yet though it is indeed a notable and admirable
+singer, it is an exaggeration to call it unequaled. In melody, and
+above all in that finer, higher melody where the chords vibrate with
+the touch of eternal sorrow, it cannot rank with such singers as the
+wood-thrush and the hermit-thrush. The serene ethereal beauty of the
+hermit's song, rising and falling through the still evening, under the
+archways of hoary mountain forests that have endured from time
+everlasting; the golden, leisurely chiming of the wood-thrush,
+sounding on June afternoons, stanza by stanza, through the
+sun-flecked groves of tall hickories, oaks, and chestnuts; with these
+there is nothing in the nightingale's song to compare. But in volume
+and continuity, in tuneful, voluble, rapid outpouring and ardor, above
+all in skillful and intricate variation of theme, its song far
+surpasses that of either of the thrushes. In all these respects it is
+more just to compare it with the mocking-bird's, which, as a rule,
+likewise falls short precisely on those points where the songs of the
+two thrushes excel."
+
+In his "Pastimes of an American Hunter" he says: "It is an
+incalculable added pleasure to any one's sense of happiness if he or
+she grows to know, even slightly and imperfectly, how to read and
+enjoy the wonder-book of nature. All hunters should be nature-lovers.
+It is to be hoped that the days of mere wasteful, boastful slaughter
+are past, and that from now on the hunter will stand foremost in
+working for the preservation and perpetuation of the wild life,
+whether big or little." Surely this man is the rarest kind of a
+sportsman.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Camping & Tramping with Roosevelt, by
+John Burroughs
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