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diff --git a/33053-h/33053-h.htm b/33053-h/33053-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..407da46 --- /dev/null +++ b/33053-h/33053-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3523 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Camping and Tramping with Roosevelt, by John Burroughs. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; font-size: 1.1em;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + + .bbox {border: solid 2px; margin-top: 2em;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .u {text-decoration: underline;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Camping & Tramping with Roosevelt, by John Burroughs + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Camping & Tramping with Roosevelt + +Author: John Burroughs + +Release Date: July 2, 2010 [EBook #33053] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMPING & TRAMPING WITH ROOSEVELT *** + + + + +Produced by David Edwards and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 409px;"> +<img src="images/i001.jpg" height="640" width="409" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>CAMPING &</big><br /> +<big>TRAMPING</big><br /> +WITH<br /> +<big>ROOSEVELT</big><br /><br /> +BY JOHN BURROUGHS</span> +</div> + + + +<div class="bbox"> +<h2>Books by John Burroughs</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p><b>WORKS.</b> 19 vols., uniform, 16mo, with frontispiece, gilt top.</p> + +<p> + <span class="smcap">Wake-Robin.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Winter Sunshine.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Locusts and Wild Honey.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Fresh Fields.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Indoor Studies.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Birds and Poets</span>, with Other Papers.<br /> + <span class="smcap">Pepacton</span>, and Other Sketches.<br /> + <span class="smcap">Signs and Seasons.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Riverby.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Whitman: A Study.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">The Light of Day.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Literary Values.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Far and Near.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Ways of Nature.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Leaf and Tendril.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Time and Change.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">The Summit of the Years.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">The Breath of Life.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Under the Apple-Trees.</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Field and Study.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p><b>FIELD AND STUDY.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>UNDER THE APPLE-TREES.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>THE BREATH OF LIFE.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>THE SUMMIT OF THE YEARS.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>TIME AND CHANGE.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>LEAF AND TENDRIL.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>WAYS OF NATURE.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>FAR AND NEAR.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>LITERARY VALUES.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>THE LIGHT OF DAY.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>WHITMAN: A Study.</b> <i>Riverside Edition.</i></p> + +<p><b>A YEAR IN THE FIELDS.</b> Selections appropriate +to each season of the year, from the writings of John +Burroughs. Illustrated from Photographs by <span class="smcap">Clifton +Johnson</span>.</p> + +<p><b>IN THE CATSKILLS.</b> Illustrated from Photographs +by <span class="smcap">Clifton Johnson</span>.</p> + +<p><b>CAMPING AND TRAMPING WITH ROOSEVELT.</b> +Illustrated from Photographs.</p> + +<p><b>BIRD AND BOUGH.</b> Poems.</p> + +<p><b>WINTER SUNSHINE.</b> <i>Cambridge Classics Series.</i></p> + +<p><b>WAKE-ROBIN.</b> <i>Riverside Aldine Series.</i></p> + +<p><b>SQUIRRELS AND OTHER FUR-BEARERS.</b> Illustrated.</p> + +<p><b>BIRD STORIES FROM BURROUGHS.</b> Illustrated.</p></div> + +<h4>HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY<br /> +<span class="smcap">Boston and New York</span></h4> +</div> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 648px"> +<a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a> +<img src="images/i002.jpg" height="1024" width="648" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>THE PRESIDENT ON GLACIER POINT, YOSEMITE VALLEY</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1905, by Underwood & Underwood, New York</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h1>CAMPING & TRAMPING<br /> +WITH ROOSEVELT</h1> + +<h3>BY<br /> +<big>JOHN BURROUGHS</big><br /> +<br /> +<i>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS</i></h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 93px"> +<img src="images/i003.jpg" height="152" width="93" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + + +<h4>BOSTON AND NEW YORK<br /> +HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY<br /> +The Riverside Press Cambridge<br /> +</h4> + +<hr style="width: 35%;" /> + +<h5>COPYRIGHT 1906 BY HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO.<br /> +COPYRIGHT 1907 BY THE OUTLOOK COMPANY<br /> +COPYRIGHT 1907 BY JOHN BURROUGHS<br /> +<br /> +<i>Published October 1907</i><br /> +</h5> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg v]</a></span></p> +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary="ILLUSTRATIONS"> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#frontis"><span class="smcap">The President on Glacier Point, Yosemite Valley</span></a></td> + <td align="right"><i>Frontispiece</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img10"><span class="smcap">Arrival at Gardiner, Montana</span></a></td> + <td align="right">10</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img24"><span class="smcap">The President, Mr. Burroughs and Secretary Loeb</span></a></td> + <td align="right">24</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img38"><span class="smcap">The President in the Bear Country</span></a></td> + <td align="right">38</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img50"><span class="smcap">Mr. Burroughs's Favorite Pastime</span></a></td> + <td align="right">50</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img64"><span class="smcap">Sunrise in the Yellowstone</span></a></td> + <td align="right">64</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img72"><span class="smcap">The President on a Trail</span></a></td> + <td align="right">72</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img82"><span class="smcap">The President's Home on Sagamore Hill, showing addition known as the Trophy Room</span></a></td> + <td align="right">82</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img88"><span class="smcap">A Bit of Woodland on the Slope towards Oyster Bay</span></a></td> + <td align="right">88</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img92"><span class="smcap">A Path in the Woods leading to Cold Spring Harbor</span></a></td> + <td align="right">92</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img98"><span class="smcap">A Yearling in the Apple Orchard</span></a></td> + <td align="right">98</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#img106"><span class="smcap">Hallway, Sagamore Hill</span></a></td> + <td align="right">106</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg vi]</a></span></p> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> +<h2>INTRODUCTION</h2> + + +<p>This little volume really needs no introduction; +the two sketches of which it is +made explain and, I hope, justify themselves. +But there is one phase of the +President's many-sided character upon +which I should like to lay especial emphasis, +namely, his natural history bent +and knowledge. Amid all his absorbing +interests and masterful activities in other +fields, his interest and his authority in +practical natural history are by no means +the least. I long ago had very direct proof +of this statement. In some of my English +sketches, following a visit to that island +in 1882, I had, rather by implication than +by positive statement, inclined to the +opinion that the European forms of animal +life were, as a rule, larger and more +hardy and prolific than the corresponding +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg viii]</a></span> +forms in this country. Roosevelt could +not let this statement or suggestion go +unchallenged, and the letter which I received +from him in 1892, touching these +things, is of double interest at this time, +as showing one phase of his radical +Americanism, while it exhibits him as a +thoroughgoing naturalist. I am sure my +readers will welcome the gist of this letter. +After some preliminary remarks he +says:—</p> + +<p>"The point of which I am speaking +is where you say that the Old World +forms of animal life are coarser, stronger, +fiercer, and more fertile than those of the +New World." (My statement was not +quite so sweeping as this.) "Now I don't +think that this is so; at least, comparing +the forms which are typical of North +America and of northern Asia and +Europe, which together form but one +province of animal life.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg ix]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Many animals and birds which increase +very fast in new countries, and +which are commonly spoken of as European +in their origin, are really as alien +to Europe as to their new homes. Thus +the rabbit, rat, and mouse are just as +truly interlopers in England as in the +United States and Australia, having +moved thither apparently within historic +times, the rabbit from North Africa, the +others from southern Asia; and one could +no more generalize upon the comparative +weakness of the American fauna from +these cases of intruders than one could +generalize from them upon the comparative +weakness of the British, German, +and French wild animals. Our wood +mouse or deer mouse retreats before the +ordinary house mouse in exactly the same +way that the European wood mouse does, +and not a whit more. Our big wood rat +stands in the same relation to the house +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg x]</a></span> +rat. Casting aside these cases, it seems +to me, looking at the mammals, that it +would be quite impossible to generalize +as to whether those of the Old or the New +World are more fecund, are the fiercest, +the hardiest, or the strongest. A great +many cases could be cited on both sides. +Our moose and caribou are, in certain of +their varieties, rather larger than the Old +World forms of the same species. If +there is any difference between the beavers +of the two countries, it is in the same direction. +So with the great family of the +field mice. The largest true arvicola +seems to be the yellow-cheeked mouse of +Hudson's Bay, and the biggest representative +of the family on either continent is +the muskrat. In most of its varieties the +wolf of North America seems to be inferior +in strength and courage to that of +northern Europe and Asia; but the direct +reverse is true with the grizzly bear, which +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg xi]</a></span> +is merely a somewhat larger and fiercer +variety of the common European brown +bear. On the whole, the Old World bison, +or so-called aurochs, appears to be somewhat +more formidable than its American +brother; but the difference against the +latter is not anything like as great as the +difference in favor of the American wapiti, +which is nothing but a giant representative +of the comparatively puny European +stag. So with the red fox. The fox +of New York is about the size of that +of France, and inferior in size to that of +Scotland; the latter in turn is inferior in +size to the big fox of the upper Missouri, +while the largest of all comes from British +America. There is no basis for the belief +that the red fox was imported here from +Europe; its skin was a common article +of trade with the Canadian fur traders +from the earliest times. On the other +hand, the European lynx is much bigger +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg xii]</a></span> +than the American. The weasels afford +cases in point, showing how hard it is to +make a general law on the subject. The +American badger is very much smaller +than the European, and the American +otter very much larger than the European +otter. Our pine marten, or sable, compared +with that of Europe, shows the +very qualities of which you speak; that +is, its skull is slenderer, the bones are +somewhat lighter, the teeth less stout, the +form showing more grace and less strength. +But curiously enough this is reversed, +with even greater emphasis, in the minks +of the two continents, the American being +much the largest and strongest, with +stouter teeth, bigger bones, and a stronger +animal in every way. The little weasel is +on the whole smaller here, while the big +weasel, or stoat, is, in some of its varieties +at least, largest on this side; and, of the +true weasels, the largest of all is the so-called +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg xiii]</a></span> +fisher, a purely American beast, a +fierce and hardy animal which habitually +preys upon as hard fighting a creature as +the raccoon, and which could eat all the +Asiatic and European varieties of weasels +without an effort.</p> + +<p>"About birds I should be far less competent +to advance arguments, and especially, +my dear sir, to you; but it seems +to me that two of the most self-asserting +and hardiest of our families of birds are +the tyrant flycatchers, of which the kingbird +is chief, and the blackbirds, or +grackles, with the meadow lark at their +head, both characteristically American.</p> + +<p>"Did you ever look over the medical +statistics of the half million men drafted +during the Civil War? They include men +of every race and color, and from every +country of Europe, and from every State +in the Union; and so many men were +measured that the average of the measurements +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg xiv]</a></span> +is probably pretty fair. From +these it would appear that the physical +type in the Eastern States had undoubtedly +degenerated. The man from New +York or New England, unless he came +from the lumbering districts, though as +tall as the Englishman or Irishman, was +distinctly lighter built, and especially was +narrower across the chest; but the finest +men physically of all were the Kentuckians +and Tennesseeans. After them came +the Scandinavians, then the Scotch, then +the people from several of the Western +States, such as Wisconsin and Minnesota, +then the Irish, then the Germans, then +the English, etc. The decay of vitality, +especially as shown in the decreasing +fertility of the New England and, indeed, +New York stock, is very alarming; but +the most prolific peoples on this continent, +whether of native or foreign origin, +are the native whites of the southern +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg xv]</a></span> +Alleghany region in Kentucky and Tennessee, +the Virginians, and the Carolinians, +and also the French of Canada.</p> + +<p>"It will be difficult to frame a general +law of fecundity in comparing the effects +upon human life of long residence on the +two continents when we see that the +Frenchman in Canada is healthy and +enormously fertile, while the old French +stock is at the stationary point in France, +the direct reverse being the case when +the English of Old and of New England +are compared, and the decision being +again reversed if we compare the English +with the mountain whites of the Southern +States."</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg xvi]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> +<h1>CAMPING WITH<br /> +PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT</h1> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 2]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> +<h2>CAMPING WITH PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT</h2> + + +<p>At the time I made the trip to Yellowstone +Park with President Roosevelt in +the spring of 1903, I promised some +friends to write up my impressions of +the President and of the Park, but I have +been slow in getting around to it. The +President himself, having the absolute +leisure and peace of the White House, +wrote his account of the trip nearly two +years ago! But with the stress and strain +of my life at "Slabsides,"—administering +the affairs of so many of the wild +creatures of the woods about me,—I +have not till this blessed season (fall of +1905) found the time to put on record an +account of the most interesting thing I +saw in that wonderful land, which, of +course, was the President +himself.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 4]</a></span></p> + +<p>When I accepted his invitation I was +well aware that during the journey I +should be in a storm centre most of the +time, which is not always a pleasant +prospect to a man of my habits and disposition. +The President himself is a good +deal of a storm,—a man of such abounding +energy and ceaseless activity that he +sets everything in motion around him +wherever he goes. But I knew he would +be pretty well occupied on his way to the +Park in speaking to eager throngs and in +receiving personal and political homage +in the towns and cities we were to pass +through. But when all this was over, and +I found myself with him in the wilderness +of the Park, with only the superintendent +and a few attendants to help take +up his tremendous personal impact, how +was it likely to fare with a non-strenuous +person like myself? I asked. I had visions +of snow six and seven feet deep, where +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 5]</a></span> +traveling could be done only upon snow-shoes, +and I had never had the things on +my feet in my life. If the infernal fires +beneath, that keep the pot boiling so +furiously in the Park, should melt the +snows, I could see the party tearing along +on horseback at a wolf-hunt pace over a +rough country; and as I had not been +on a horse's back since the President +was born, how would it be likely to fare +with me then?</p> + +<p>I had known the President several +years before he became famous, and we +had had some correspondence on subjects +of natural history. His interest in such +themes is always very fresh and keen, +and the main motive of his visit to the +Park at this time was to see and study in +its semi-domesticated condition the great +game which he had so often hunted during +his ranch days; and he was kind +enough to think it would be an additional +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 6]</a></span> +pleasure to see it with a nature-lover like +myself. For my own part, I knew nothing +about big game, but I knew there was no +man in the country with whom I should +so like to see it as Roosevelt.</p> + +<p>Some of our newspapers reported that +the President intended to hunt in the +Park. A woman in Vermont wrote me, +to protest against the hunting, and hoped +I would teach the President to love the +animals as much as I did,—as if he did +not love them much more, because his +love is founded upon knowledge, and +because they had been a part of his life. +She did not know that I was then cherishing +the secret hope that I might be allowed +to shoot a cougar or bobcat; but +this fun did not come to me. The President +said, "I will not fire a gun in the +Park; then I shall have no explanations +to make." Yet once I did hear him say +in the wilderness, "I feel as if I ought to +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 7]</a></span> +keep the camp in meat. I always have." +I regretted that he could not do so on this +occasion.</p> + +<p>I have never been disturbed by the +President's hunting trips. It is to such +men as he that the big game legitimately +belongs,—men who regard it from the +point of view of the naturalist as well as +from that of the sportsman, who are interested +in its preservation, and who share +with the world the delight they experience +in the chase. Such a hunter as Roosevelt +is as far removed from the game-butcher +as day is from night; and as for his killing +of the "varmints,"—bears, cougars, +and bobcats,—the fewer of these there +are, the better for the useful and beautiful +game.</p> + +<p>The cougars, or mountain lions, in the +Park certainly needed killing. The superintendent +reported that he had seen where +they had slain nineteen elk, and we saw +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 8]</a></span> +where they had killed a deer and dragged +its body across the trail. Of course, the +President would not now on his hunting +trips shoot an elk or a deer except to +"keep the camp in meat," and for this +purpose it is as legitimate as to slay a +sheep or a steer for the table at home.</p> + +<p>We left Washington on April 1, and +strung several of the larger Western cities +on our thread of travel,—Chicago, Milwaukee, +Madison, St. Paul, Minneapolis,—as +well as many lesser towns, in each +of which the President made an address, +sometimes brief, on a few occasions of an +hour or more.</p> + +<p>He gave himself very freely and heartily +to the people wherever he went. He could +easily match their Western cordiality +and good-fellowship. Wherever his train +stopped, crowds soon gathered, or had +already gathered, to welcome him. His +advent made a holiday in each town he +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 9]</a></span> +visited. At all the principal stops the +usual programme was: first, his reception +by the committee of citizens appointed to +receive him,—they usually boarded his +private car, and were one by one introduced +to him; then a drive through the +town with a concourse of carriages; then +to the hall or open-air platform, where +he spoke to the assembled throng; then +to lunch or dinner; and then back to the +train, and off for the next stop,—a round +of hand-shaking, carriage-driving, speech-making +each day. He usually spoke +from eight to ten times every twenty-four +hours, sometimes for only a few minutes +from the rear platform of his private car, +at others for an hour or more in some +large hall. In Chicago, Milwaukee, and +St. Paul, elaborate banquets were given +him and his party, and on each occasion +he delivered a carefully prepared speech +upon questions that involved the policy +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 10]</a></span> +of his administration. The throng that +greeted him in the vast Auditorium in +Chicago—that rose and waved and +waved again—was one of the grandest +human spectacles I ever witnessed.</p> + +<p>In Milwaukee the dense cloud of tobacco +smoke that presently filled the +large hall after the feasting was over was +enough to choke any speaker, but it did +not seem to choke the President, though +he does not use tobacco in any form himself; +nor was there anything foggy about +his utterances on that occasion upon +legislative control of the trusts.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;"> +<a name="img10" id="img10"></a> +<img src="images/i004.jpg" width="1024" height="692" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>ARRIVAL AT GARDINER, MONT.<br /> +(ENTRANCE TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.)</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1906, by Underwood & Underwood, New York.</span> +</div> + +<p>In St. Paul the city was inundated +with humanity,—a vast human tide +that left the middle of the streets bare as +our line of carriages moved slowly along, +but that rose up in solid walls of town +and prairie humanity on the sidewalks +and city dooryards. How hearty and +happy the myriad faces looked! At one +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 11]</a></span> +point I spied in the throng on the curbstone +a large silk banner that bore my +own name as the title of some society. I +presently saw that it was borne by half +a dozen anxious and expectant-looking +schoolgirls with braids down their backs. +As my carriage drew near them, they +pressed their way through the throng +and threw a large bouquet of flowers into +my lap. I think it would be hard to say +who blushed the deeper, the girls or myself. +It was the first time I had ever had +flowers showered upon me in public; and +then, maybe, I felt that on such an occasion +I was only a minor side issue, and +public recognition was not called for. +But the incident pleased the President. +"I saw that banner and those flowers," he +said afterwards; "and I was delighted to +see you honored that way." But I fear I +have not to this day thanked the Monroe +School of St. Paul for that pretty +attention.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> + +<p>The time of the passing of the presidential +train seemed well known, even +on the Dakota prairies. At one point I +remember a little brown schoolhouse +stood not far off, and near the track the +school-ma'am, with her flock, drawn up +in line. We were at luncheon, but the +President caught a glimpse ahead through +the window, and quickly took in the +situation. With napkin in hand, he +rushed out on the platform and waved to +them. "Those children," he said, as he +came back, "wanted to see the President +of the United States, and I could not disappoint +them. They may never have +another chance. What a deep impression +such things make when we are young!"</p> + +<p>At some point in the Dakotas we picked +up the former foreman of his ranch and +another cowboy friend of the old days, +and they rode with the President in his +private car for several hours. He was as +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 13]</a></span> +happy with them as a schoolboy ever was +in meeting old chums. He beamed with +delight all over. The life which those +men represented, and of which he had +himself once formed a part, meant so +much to him; it had entered into the very +marrow of his being, and I could see the +joy of it all shining in his face as he sat +and lived parts of it over again with those +men that day. He bubbled with laughter +continually. The men, I thought, seemed +a little embarrassed by his open-handed +cordiality and good-fellowship. He himself +evidently wanted to forget the present, +and to live only in the memory of those +wonderful ranch days,—that free, hardy, +adventurous life upon the plains. It all +came back to him with a rush when he +found himself alone with these heroes of +the rope and the stirrup. How much +more keen his appreciation was, and how +much quicker his memory, than theirs! +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 14]</a></span> +He was constantly recalling to their +minds incidents which they had forgotten, +and the names of horses and dogs which +had escaped them. His subsequent life, +instead of making dim the memory of his +ranch days, seemed to have made it more +vivid by contrast.</p> + +<p>When they had gone I said to him, "I +think your affection for those men very +beautiful."</p> + +<p>"How could I help it?" he said.</p> + +<p>"Still, few men in your station could +or would go back and renew such friendships."</p> + +<p>"Then I pity them," he replied.</p> + +<p>He said afterwards that his ranch life +had been the making of him. It had +built him up and hardened him physically, +and it had opened his eyes to the +wealth of manly character among the +plainsmen and cattlemen.</p> + +<p>Had he not gone West, he said, he +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 15]</a></span> +never would have raised the Rough Riders +regiment; and had he not raised that +regiment and gone to the Cuban War, he +would not have been made governor of +New York; and had not this happened, +the politicians would not unwittingly +have made his rise to the Presidency so +inevitable. There is no doubt, I think, +that he would have got there some day; +but without the chain of events above +outlined, his rise could not have been so +rapid.</p> + +<p>Our train entered the Bad Lands of +North Dakota in the early evening twilight, +and the President stood on the rear +platform of his car, gazing wistfully upon +the scene. "I know all this country like a +book," he said. "I have ridden over it, +and hunted over it, and tramped over it, +in all seasons and weather, and it looks +like home to me. My old ranch is not +far off. We shall soon reach Medora, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 16]</a></span> +which was my station." It was plain to +see that that strange, forbidding-looking +landscape, hills and valleys to eastern +eyes, utterly demoralized and gone to the +bad,—flayed, fantastic, treeless, a riot +of naked clay slopes, chimney-like buttes, +and dry coulees,—was in his eyes a land +of almost pathetic interest. There were +streaks of good pasturage here and there +where his cattle used to graze, and where +the deer and the pronghorn used to +linger.</p> + +<p>When we reached Medora, where the +train was scheduled to stop an hour, it +was nearly dark, but the whole town and +country round had turned out to welcome +their old townsman. After much hand-shaking, +the committee conducted us +down to a little hall, where the President +stood on a low platform, and made a +short address to the standing crowd that +filled the place. Then some flashlight pictures +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 17]</a></span> +were taken by the local photographer, +after which the President stepped +down, and, while the people filed past +him, shook hands with every man, woman, +and child of them, calling many of +them by name, and greeting them all +most cordially. I recall one grizzled old +frontiersman whose hand he grasped, +calling him by name, and saying, "How +well I remember you! You once mended +my gunlock for me,—put on a new +hammer." "Yes," said the delighted old +fellow; "I'm the man, Mr. President." +He was among his old neighbors once +more, and the pleasure of the meeting +was very obvious on both sides. I heard +one of the women tell him they were going +to have a dance presently, and ask him +if he would not stay and open it! The +President laughingly excused himself, and +said his train had to leave on schedule +time, and his time was nearly up. I +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 18]</a></span> +thought of the incident in his "Ranch +Life," in which he says he once opened a +cowboy ball with the wife of a Minnesota +man, who danced opposite, and who had +recently shot a bullying Scotchman. He +says the scene reminded him of the ball +where Bret Harte's heroine "went down +the middle with the man that shot Sandy +Magee."</p> + +<p>Before reaching Medora he had told +me many anecdotes of "Hell-Roaring +Bill Jones," and had said I should see +him. But it turned out that Hell-Roaring +Bill had begun to celebrate the coming of +the President too early in the day, and +when we reached Medora he was not in a +presentable condition. I forget now how +he had earned his name, but no doubt he +had come honestly by it; it was a part of +his history, as was that of "The Pike," +"Cold-Turkey Bill," "Hash-Knife Joe," +and other classic heroes of the +frontier.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> + +<p>It is curious how certain things go to +the bad in the Far West, or a certain proportion +of them,—bad lands, bad horses, +and bad men. And it is a degree of badness +that the East has no conception of,—land +that looks as raw and unnatural +as if time had never laid its shaping and +softening hand upon it; horses that, when +mounted, put their heads to the ground +and their heels in the air, and, squealing +defiantly, resort to the most diabolically +ingenious tricks to shake off or to kill +their riders; and men who amuse themselves +in bar-rooms by shooting about +the feet of a "tenderfoot" to make him +dance, or who ride along the street and +shoot at every one in sight. Just as the +old plutonic fires come to the surface out +there in the Rockies, and hint very +strongly of the infernal regions, so a kind +of satanic element in men and animals—an +underlying devilishness—crops +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 20]</a></span> +out, and we have the border ruffian and +the bucking broncho.</p> + +<p>The President told of an Englishman +on a hunting trip in the West, who, being +an expert horseman at home, scorned the +idea that he could not ride any of their +"grass-fed ponies." So they gave him a +bucking broncho. He was soon lying on +the ground, much stunned. When he +could speak, he said, "I should not have +minded him, you know, <i>but 'e 'ides 'is +'ead</i>."</p> + +<p>At one place in Dakota the train stopped +to take water while we were at lunch. A +crowd soon gathered, and the President +went out to greet them. We could hear +his voice, and the cheers and laughter of +the crowd. And then we heard him say, +"Well, good-by, I must go now." Still +he did not come. Then we heard more +talking and laughing, and another "good-by," +and yet he did not come. Then I +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 21]</a></span> +went out to see what had happened. I +found the President down on the ground +shaking hands with the whole lot of them. +Some one had reached up to shake his +hand as he was about withdrawing, and +this had been followed by such eagerness +on the part of the rest of the people to do +likewise, that the President had instantly +got down to gratify them. Had the secret +service men known it, they would have +been in a pickle. We probably have never +had a President who responded more +freely and heartily to the popular liking +for him than Roosevelt. The crowd always +seem to be in love with him the +moment they see him and hear his voice. +And it is not by reason of any arts of eloquence, +or charm of address, but by reason +of his inborn heartiness and sincerity, +and his genuine manliness. The people +feel his quality at once. In Bermuda last +winter I met a Catholic priest who had +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 22]</a></span> +sat on the platform at some place in New +England very near the President while +he was speaking, and who said, "The +man had not spoken three minutes before +I loved him, and had any one tried to +molest him, I could have torn him to +pieces." It is the quality in the man that +instantly inspires such a liking as this in +strangers that will, I am sure, safeguard +him in all public places.</p> + +<p>I once heard him say that he did not +like to be addressed as "His Excellency;" +he added laughingly, "They might just +as well call me 'His Transparency,' for all +I care." It is this transparency, this direct +out-and-out, unequivocal character of +him that is one source of his popularity. +The people do love transparency,—all +of them but the politicians.</p> + +<p>A friend of his one day took him to +task for some mistake he had made in one +of his appointments. "My dear sir," +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 23]</a></span> +replied the President, "where you know +of one mistake I have made, I know of +ten." How such candor must make the +politicians shiver!</p> + +<p>I have said that I stood in dread of the +necessity of snowshoeing in the Park, +and, in lieu of that, of horseback riding. +Yet when we reached Gardiner, the entrance +to the Park, on that bright, crisp +April morning, with no snow in sight save +that on the mountain-tops, and found +Major Pitcher and Captain Chittenden +at the head of a squad of soldiers, with a +fine saddle-horse for the President, and +an ambulance drawn by two span of +mules for me, I confess that I experienced +just a slight shade of mortification. I +thought they might have given me the +option of the saddle or the ambulance. +Yet I entered the vehicle as if it was just +what I had been expecting.</p> + +<p>The President and his escort, with a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 24]</a></span> +cloud of cowboys hovering in the rear, +were soon off at a lively pace, and my +ambulance followed close, and at a lively +pace, too; so lively that I soon found myself +gripping the seat with both hands. +"Well," I said to myself, "they are giving +me a regular Western send-off;" and I +thought, as the ambulance swayed from +side to side, that it would suit me just as +well if my driver did not try to keep up +with the presidential procession. The +driver and his mules were shut off from +me by a curtain, but, looking ahead out +of the sides of the vehicle, I saw two good-sized +logs lying across our course. Surely, +I thought (and barely had time to think), +he will avoid these. But he did not, and +as we passed over them I was nearly +thrown through the top of the ambulance. +"This <i>is</i> a lively send-off," I said, rubbing +my bruises with one hand, while I clung +to the seat with the other. Presently I +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 25]</a></span> +saw the cowboys scrambling up the bank +as if to get out of our way; then the President +on his fine gray stallion scrambling +up the bank with his escort, and looking +ominously in my direction, as we thundered +by.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;"> +<a name="img24" id="img24"></a> +<img src="images/i005.jpg" width="1024" height="686" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>THE PRESIDENT WITH MR. BURROUGHS AND SECRETARY LOEB JUST BEFORE ENTERING THE PARK.</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1906, by Underwood & Underwood, New York.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Well," I said, "this is indeed a novel +ride; for once in my life I have sidetracked +the President of the United +States! I am given the right of way over +all." On we tore, along the smooth, hard +road, and did not slacken our pace till, +at the end of a mile or two, we began to +mount the hill toward Fort Yellowstone. +And not till we reached the fort did I +learn that our mules had run away. They +had been excited beyond control by the +presidential cavalcade, and the driver, +finding he could not hold them, had +aimed only to keep them in the road, +and we very soon had the road all to +ourselves.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 26]</a></span></p> + +<p>Fort Yellowstone is at Mammoth Hot +Springs, where one gets his first view of +the characteristic scenery of the Park,—huge, +boiling springs with their columns +of vapor, and the first characteristic odors +which suggest the traditional infernal +regions quite as much as the boiling and +steaming water does. One also gets a +taste of a much more rarefied air than he +has been used to, and finds himself panting +for breath on a very slight exertion. +The Mammoth Hot Springs have built +themselves up an enormous mound that +stands there above the village on the side +of the mountain, terraced and scalloped +and fluted, and suggesting some vitreous +formation, or rare carving of enormous, +many-colored precious stones. It looks +quite unearthly, and, though the devil's +frying pan, and ink pot, and the Stygian +caves are not far off, the suggestion is of +something celestial rather than of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 27]</a></span> +nether regions,—a vision of jasper walls, +and of amethyst battlements.</p> + +<p>With Captain Chittenden I climbed to +the top, stepping over the rills and creeks +of steaming hot water, and looked at the +marvelously clear, cerulean, but boiling, +pools on the summit. The water seemed +as unearthly in its beauty and purity as +the gigantic sculpturing that held it.</p> + +<p>The Stygian caves are still farther up +the mountain,—little pockets in the +rocks, or well-holes in the ground at your +feet, filled with deadly carbon dioxide. +We saw birds' feathers and quills in all of +them. The birds hop into them, probably +in quest of food or seeking shelter, +and they never come out. We saw the +body of a martin on the bank of one hole. +Into one we sank a lighted torch, and it +was extinguished as quickly as if we had +dropped it into water. Each cave or niche +is a death valley on a small scale. Near by +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 28]</a></span> +we came upon a steaming pool, or lakelet, +of an acre or more in extent. A pair of +mallard ducks were swimming about in +one end of it,—the cool end. When we +approached, they swam slowly over into +the warmer water. As they progressed, +the water got hotter and hotter, and the +ducks' discomfort was evident. Presently +they stopped, and turned towards us, +half appealingly, as I thought. They +could go no farther; would we please +come no nearer? As I took another step +or two, up they rose and disappeared +over the hill. Had they gone to the extreme +end of the pool, we could have had +boiled mallard for dinner.</p> + +<p>Another novel spectacle was at night, +or near sundown, when the deer came +down from the hills into the streets and +ate hay, a few yards from the officers' +quarters, as unconcernedly as so many +domestic sheep. This they had been +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 29]</a></span> +doing all winter, and they kept it up +till May, at times a score or more of +them profiting thus on the government's +bounty. When the sundown gun was +fired a couple of hundred yards away, +they gave a nervous start, but kept on +with their feeding. The antelope and elk +and mountain sheep had not yet grown +bold enough to accept Uncle Sam's charity +in that way.</p> + +<p>The President wanted all the freedom +and solitude possible while in the Park, +so all newspaper men and other strangers +were excluded. Even the secret service +men and his physician and private secretaries +were left at Gardiner. He craved +once more to be alone with nature; he +was evidently hungry for the wild and +the aboriginal,—a hunger that seems to +come upon him regularly at least once a +year, and drives him forth on his hunting +trips for big game in the West.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 30]</a></span></p> + +<p>We spent two weeks in the Park, and +had fair weather, bright, crisp days, and +clear, freezing nights. The first week +we occupied three camps that had been +prepared, or partly prepared, for us in +the northeast corner of the Park, in the +region drained by the Gardiner River, +where there was but little snow, and +which we reached on horseback.</p> + +<p>The second week we visited the geyser +region, which lies a thousand feet or more +higher, and where the snow was still five +or six feet deep. This part of the journey +was made in big sleighs, each drawn by +two span of horses.</p> + +<p>On the horseback excursion, which +involved only about fifty miles of riding, +we had a mule pack train, and Sibley +tents and stoves, with quite a retinue of +camp laborers, a lieutenant and an orderly +or two, and a guide, Billy Hofer.</p> + +<p>The first camp was in a wild, rocky, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 31]</a></span> +and picturesque gorge on the Yellowstone, +about ten miles from the fort. A +slight indisposition, the result of luxurious +living, with no wood to chop or to saw, +and no hills to climb, as at home, prevented +me from joining the party till the +third day. Then Captain Chittenden +drove me eight miles in a buggy. About +two miles from camp we came to a picket +of two or three soldiers, where my big +bay was in waiting for me. I mounted +him confidently, and, guided by an orderly, +took the narrow, winding trail +toward camp. Except for an hour's riding +the day before with Captain Chittenden, +I had not been on a horse's back for +nearly fifty years, and I had not spent as +much as a day in the saddle during my +youth. That first sense of a live, spirited, +powerful animal beneath you, at whose +mercy you are,—you, a pedestrian all +your days,—with gullies and rocks and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 32]</a></span> +logs to cross, and deep chasms opening +close beside you, is not a little disturbing. +But my big bay did his part well, and I +did not lose my head or my nerve, as we +cautiously made our way along the narrow +path on the side of the steep gorge, +with a foaming torrent rushing along at +its foot, nor yet when we forded the rocky +and rapid Yellowstone. A misstep or a +stumble on the part of my steed, and +probably the first bubble of my confidence +would have been shivered at once; but +this did not happen, and in due time we +reached the group of tents that formed +the President's camp.</p> + +<p>The situation was delightful,—no +snow, scattered pine trees, a secluded +valley, rocky heights, and the clear, +ample, trouty waters of the Yellowstone. +The President was not in camp. In the +morning he had stated his wish to go +alone into the wilderness. Major Pitcher +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 33]</a></span> +very naturally did not quite like the idea, +and wished to send an orderly with him.</p> + +<p>"No," said the President. "Put me +up a lunch, and let me go alone. I will +surely come back."</p> + +<p>And back he surely came. It was +about five o'clock when he came briskly +down the path from the east to the camp. +It came out that he had tramped about +eighteen miles through a very rough +country. The day before, he and the +major had located a band of several hundred +elk on a broad, treeless hillside, and +his purpose was to find those elk, and +creep up on them, and eat his lunch +under their very noses. And this he did, +spending an hour or more within fifty +yards of them. He came back looking as +fresh as when he started, and at night, +sitting before the big camp fire, related +his adventure, and talked with his usual +emphasis and copiousness of many things. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 34]</a></span> +He told me of the birds he had seen or +heard; among them he had heard one +that was new to him. From his description +I told him I thought it was Townsend's +solitaire, a bird I much wanted to +see and hear. I had heard the West India +solitaire,—one of the most impressive +songsters I ever heard,—and I wished +to compare our Western form with it.</p> + +<p>The next morning we set out for our +second camp, ten or a dozen miles away, +and in reaching it passed over much of +the ground the President had traversed +the day before. As we came to a wild, +rocky place above a deep chasm of the +river, with a few scattered pine trees, the +President said, "It was right here that I +heard that strange bird song." We paused +a moment. "And there it is now!" he +exclaimed.</p> + +<p>Sure enough, there was the solitaire +singing from the top of a small cedar,—a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 35]</a></span> +bright, animated, eloquent song, but +without the richness and magic of the +song of the tropical species. We hitched +our horses, and followed the bird up as it +flew from tree to tree. The President was +as eager to see and hear it as I was. It +seemed very shy, and we only caught +glimpses of it. In form and color it much +resembles its West India cousin, and +suggests our catbird. It ceased to sing +when we pursued it. It is a bird found +only in the wilder and higher parts of the +Rockies. My impression was that its +song did not quite merit the encomiums +that have been pronounced upon it.</p> + +<p>At this point, I saw amid the rocks my +first and only Rocky Mountain woodchucks, +and, soon after we had resumed +our journey, our first blue grouse,—a +number of them like larger partridges. +Occasionally we would come upon black-tailed +deer, standing or lying down in the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 36]</a></span> +bushes, their large ears at attention being +the first thing to catch the eye. They +would often allow us to pass within a few +rods of them without showing alarm. +Elk horns were scattered all over this +part of the Park, and we passed several +old carcasses of dead elk that had probably +died a natural death.</p> + +<p>In a grassy bottom at the foot of a +steep hill, while the President and I were +dismounted, and noting the pleasing +picture which our pack train of fifteen or +twenty mules made filing along the side +of a steep grassy slope,—a picture which +he has preserved in his late volume, "Out-Door +Pastimes of an American Hunter,"—our +attention was attracted by plaintive, +musical, bird-like chirps that rose +from the grass about us. I was almost +certain it was made by a bird; the President +was of like opinion; and we kicked +about in the tufts of grass, hoping to flush +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 37]</a></span> +the bird. Now here, now there, arose +this sharp, but bird-like note. Finally, +we found that it was made by a species of +gopher, whose holes we soon discovered. +What its specific name is I do not +know, but it should be called the singing +gopher.</p> + +<p>Our destination this day was a camp +on Cottonwood Creek, near "Hell-Roaring +Creek." As we made our way in the +afternoon along a broad, open, grassy +valley, I saw a horseman come galloping +over the hill to our right, starting up a +band of elk as he came; riding across the +plain, he wheeled his horse, and, with the +military salute, joined our party. He +proved to be a government scout, called +the "Duke of Hell Roaring,"—an educated +officer from the Austrian army, +who, for some unknown reason, had exiled +himself here in this out-of-the-way +part of the world. He was a man in his +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 38]</a></span> +prime, of fine, military look and bearing. +After conversing a few moments with +the President and Major Pitcher, he rode +rapidly away.</p> + +<p>Our second camp, which we reached in +mid-afternoon, was in the edge of the +woods on the banks of a fine, large trout +stream, where ice and snow still lingered +in patches. I tried for trout in the head of +a large, partly open pool, but did not get +a rise; too much ice in the stream, I concluded. +Very soon my attention was attracted +by a strange note, or call, in the +spruce woods. The President had also +noticed it, and, with me, wondered what +made it. Was it bird or beast? Billy +Hofer said he thought it was an owl, but +the sound in no way suggested an owl, +and the sun was shining brightly. It was +a sound such as a boy might make by +blowing in the neck of an empty bottle. +Presently we heard it beyond us on the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 39]</a></span> +other side of the creek, which was pretty +good proof that the creature had wings.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 648px;"> +<a name="img38" id="img38"></a> +<img src="images/i006.jpg" height="1024" width="648" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>THE PRESIDENT IN THE BEAR COUNTRY</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1905, by Underwood & Underwood, New York</span> +</div> + +<p>"Let's go run that bird down," said +the President to me.</p> + +<p>So off we started across a small, open, +snow-streaked plain, toward the woods +beyond it. We soon decided that the bird +was on the top of one of a group of tall +spruces. After much skipping about over +logs and rocks, and much craning of our +necks, we made him out on the peak of +a spruce. I imitated his call, when he +turned his head down toward us, but we +could not make out what he was.</p> + +<p>"Why did we not think to bring the +glasses?" said the President.</p> + +<p>"I will run and get them," I replied.</p> + +<p>"No," said he, "you stay here and keep +that bird treed, and I will fetch them."</p> + +<p>So off he went like a boy, and was very +soon back with the glasses. We quickly +made out that it was indeed an owl,—the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 40]</a></span> +pigmy owl, as it turned out,—not +much larger than a bluebird. I think the +President was as pleased as if we had +bagged some big game. He had never +seen the bird before.</p> + +<p>Throughout the trip I found his interest +in bird life very keen, and his eye and +ear remarkably quick. He usually saw +the bird or heard its note as quickly as I +did,—and I had nothing else to think +about, and had been teaching my eye and +ear the trick of it for over fifty years. Of +course, his training as a big-game hunter +stood him in good stead, but back of that +were his naturalist's instincts, and his +genuine love of all forms of wild life.</p> + +<p>I have been told that his ambition up to +the time he went to Harvard had been to +be a naturalist, but that there they seem +to have convinced him that all the out-of-door +worlds of natural history had been +conquered, and that the only worlds remaining +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 41]</a></span> +were in the laboratory, and to be +won with the microscope and the scalpel. +But Roosevelt was a man made for action +in a wide field, and laboratory conquests +could not satisfy him. His instincts as a +naturalist, however, lie back of all his +hunting expeditions, and, in a large measure, +I think, prompt them. Certain it is +that his hunting records contain more live +natural history than any similar records +known to me, unless it be those of Charles +St. John, the Scotch naturalist-sportsman.</p> + +<p>The Canada jays, or camp-robbers, as +they are often called, soon found out our +camp that afternoon, and no sooner had +the cook begun to throw out peelings and +scraps and crusts than the jays began to +carry them off, not to eat, as I observed, +but to hide them in the thicker branches +of the spruce trees. How tame they were, +coming within three or four yards of one! +Why this species of jay should everywhere +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 42]</a></span> +be so familiar, and all other kinds so wild, +is a puzzle.</p> + +<p>In the morning, as we rode down the +valley toward our next camping-place, at +Tower Falls, a band of elk containing a +hundred or more started along the side of +the hill a few hundred yards away. I was +some distance behind the rest of the party, +as usual, when I saw the President wheel +his horse off to the left, and, beckoning to +me to follow, start at a tearing pace on the +trail of the fleeing elk. He afterwards told +me that he wanted me to get a good view +of those elk at close range, and he was +afraid that if he sent the major or Hofer +to lead me, I would not get it. I hurried +along as fast as I could, which was not +fast; the way was rough,—logs, rocks, +spring runs, and a tenderfoot rider.</p> + +<p>Now and then the President, looking +back and seeing what slow progress I was +making, would beckon to me impatiently, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 43]</a></span> +and I could fancy him saying, "If I had +a rope around him, he would come faster +than that!" Once or twice I lost sight of +both him and the elk; the altitude was +great, and the horse was laboring like a +steam engine on an upgrade. Still I urged +him on. Presently, as I broke over a hill, +I saw the President pressing the elk up +the opposite slope. At the brow of the +hill he stopped, and I soon joined him. +There on the top, not fifty yards away, +stood the elk in a mass, their heads toward +us and their tongues hanging out. +They could run no farther. The President +laughed like a boy. The spectacle meant +much more to him than it did to me. I had +never seen a wild elk till on this trip, but +they had been among the notable game +that he had hunted. He had traveled +hundreds of miles, and undergone great +hardships, to get within rifle range of +these creatures. Now here stood scores +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 44]</a></span> +of them with lolling tongues, begging for +mercy.</p> + +<p>After gazing at them to our hearts' content, +we turned away to look up our companions, +who were nowhere within sight. +We finally spied them a mile or more away, +and, joining them, all made our way to +an elevated plateau that commanded an +open landscape three or four miles across. +It was high noon, and the sun shone clear +and warm. From this lookout we saw +herds upon herds of elk scattered over +the slopes and gentle valleys in front of +us. Some were grazing, some were standing +or lying upon the ground, or upon the +patches of snow. Through our glasses we +counted the separate bands, and then the +numbers of some of the bands or groups, +and estimated that three thousand elk +were in full view in the landscape around +us. It was a notable spectacle. Afterward, +in Montana, I attended a council of Indian +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 45]</a></span> +chiefs at one of the Indian agencies, +and told them, through their interpreter, +that I had been with the Great Chief in +the Park, and of the game we had seen. +When I told them of these three thousand +elk all in view at once, they grunted +loudly, whether with satisfaction or with +incredulity, I could not tell.</p> + +<p>In the midst of this great game amphitheatre +we dismounted and enjoyed the +prospect. And the President did an unusual +thing, he loafed for nearly an hour,—stretched +himself out in the sunshine +upon a flat rock, as did the rest of us, and, +I hope, got a few winks of sleep. I am +sure I did. Little, slender, striped chipmunks, +about half the size of ours, were +scurrying about; but I recall no other wild +things save the elk.</p> + +<p>From here we rode down the valley to +our third camp, at Tower Falls, stopping +on the way to eat our luncheon on a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 46]</a></span> +washed boulder beside a creek. On this +ride I saw my first and only badger; he +stuck his striped head out of his hole in +the ground only a few yards away from +us as we passed.</p> + +<p>Our camp at Tower Falls was amid +the spruces above a cañon of the Yellowstone, +five or six hundred feet deep. It +was a beautiful and impressive situation,—shelter, +snugness, even cosiness, looking +over the brink of the awful and +the terrifying. With a run and a jump I +think one might have landed in the river +at the bottom of the great abyss, and in +doing so might have scaled one of those +natural obelisks or needles of rock that +stand up out of the depths two or three +hundred feet high. Nature shows you +what an enormous furrow her plough can +open through the strata when moving +horizontally, at the same time that she +shows you what delicate and graceful +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 47]</a></span> +columns her slower and gentler aerial +forces can carve out of the piled strata. +At the Falls there were two or three of +these columns, like the picket-pins of the +elder gods.</p> + +<p>Across the cañon in front of our camp, +upon a grassy plateau which was faced +by a wall of trap rock, apparently thirty +or forty feet high, a band of mountain +sheep soon attracted our attention. They +were within long rifle range, but were not +at all disturbed by our presence, nor had +they been disturbed by the road-builders +who, under Captain Chittenden, were +constructing a government road along +the brink of the cañon. We speculated +as to whether or not the sheep could get +down the almost perpendicular face of +the chasm to the river to drink. It seemed +to me impossible. Would they try it while +we were there to see? We all hoped so; +and sure enough, late in the afternoon +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 48]</a></span> +the word came to our tents that the sheep +were coming down. The President, with +coat off and a towel around his neck, was +shaving. One side of his face was half +shaved, and the other side lathered. Hofer +and I started for a point on the brink of the +cañon where we could have a better view.</p> + +<p>"By Jove," said the President, "I +must see that. The shaving can wait, and +the sheep won't."</p> + +<p>So on he came, accoutred as he was,—coatless, +hatless, but not latherless, nor +towelless. Like the rest of us, his only +thought was to see those sheep do their +"stunt." With glasses in hand, we watched +them descend those perilous heights, leaping +from point to point, finding a foothold +where none appeared to our eyes, loosening +fragments of the crumbling rocks as +they came, now poised upon some narrow +shelf and preparing for the next leap, zig-zagging +or plunging straight down till the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 49]</a></span> +bottom was reached, and not one accident +or misstep amid all that insecure footing. +I think the President was the most pleased +of us all; he laughed with the delight of it, +and quite forgot his need of a hat and coat +till I sent for them.</p> + +<p>In the night we heard the sheep going +back; we could tell by the noise of the +falling stones. In the morning I confidently +expected to see some of them lying +dead at the foot of the cliffs, but there +they all were at the top once more, apparently +safe and sound. They do, however, +occasionally meet with accidents in +their perilous climbing, and their dead +bodies have been found at the foot of the +rocks. Doubtless some point of rock to +which they had trusted gave way, and +crushed them in the descent, or fell upon +those in the lead.</p> + +<p>The next day, while the rest of us went +fishing for trout in the Yellowstone, three +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 50]</a></span> +or four miles above the camp, over the +roughest trail that we had yet traversed +on horseback, the President, who never +fishes unless put to it for meat, went off +alone again with his lunch in his pocket, +to stalk those sheep as he had stalked the +elk, and to feel the old sportsman's thrill +without the use of firearms. To do this +involved a tramp of eight or ten miles +down the river to a bridge and up the +opposite bank. This he did, and ate his +lunch near the sheep, and was back in +camp before we were.</p> + +<p>We took some large cut-throat trout, +as they are called, from the yellow mark +across their throats, and I saw at short +range a black-tailed deer bounding along +in that curious, stiff-legged, mechanical, +yet springy manner, apparently all four +legs in the air at once, and all four feet +reaching the ground at once, affording a +very singular spectacle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;"> +<a name="img50" id="img50"></a> +<img src="images/i007.jpg" width="1024" height="675" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>MR. BURROUGHS'S FAVORITE PASTIME.</big><br /> +By kind permission of Forest and Stream.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 51]</a></span> +We spent two nights in our Tower Falls +camp, and on the morning of the third +day set out on our return to Fort Yellowstone, +pausing at Yancey's on our way, +and exchanging greetings with the old +frontiersman, who died a few weeks later.</p> + +<p>While in camp we always had a big fire +at night in the open near the tents, and +around this we sat upon logs or camp-stools, +and listened to the President's talk. +What a stream of it he poured forth! and +what a varied and picturesque stream!—anecdote, +history, science, politics, adventure, +literature; bits of his experience +as a ranchman, hunter, Rough Rider, +legislator, civil service commissioner, police +commissioner, governor, president,—the +frankest confessions, the most telling +criticisms, happy characterizations +of prominent political leaders, or foreign +rulers, or members of his own Cabinet; +always surprising by his candor, astonishing +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 52]</a></span> +by his memory, and diverting by +his humor. His reading has been very +wide, and he has that rare type of memory +which retains details as well as mass +and generalities. One night something +started him off on ancient history, and +one would have thought he was just fresh +from his college course in history, the dates +and names and events came so readily. +Another time he discussed palæontology, +and rapidly gave the outlines of the science, +and the main facts, as if he had been reading +up on the subject that very day. He +sees things as wholes, and hence the relation +of the parts comes easy to him.</p> + +<p>At dinner, at the White House, the +night before we started on the expedition, +I heard him talking with a guest,—an +officer of the British army, who was just +back from India. And the extent and variety +of his information about India and +Indian history and the relations of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 53]</a></span> +British government to it were extraordinary. +It put the British major on his +mettle to keep pace with him.</p> + +<p>One night in camp he told us the story +of one of his Rough Riders who had just +written him from some place in Arizona. +The Rough Riders, wherever they are +now, look to him in time of trouble. This +one had come to grief in Arizona. He was +in jail. So he wrote the President, and +his letter ran something like this:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"<span class="smcap">Dear Colonel</span>,—I am in trouble. +I shot a lady in the eye, but I did not intend +to hit the lady; I was shooting at my +wife."</p></div> + +<p>And the presidential laughter rang out +over the tree-tops. To another Rough +Rider, who was in jail, accused of horse +stealing, he had loaned two hundred +dollars to pay counsel on his trial, and, +to his surprise, in due time the money +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 54]</a></span> +came back. The ex-Rough wrote that his +trial never came off. "<i>We elected our district +attorney</i>;" and the laughter again +sounded, and drowned the noise of the +brook near by.</p> + +<p>On another occasion we asked the President +if he was ever molested by any of +the "bad men" of the frontier, with whom +he had often come in contact. "Only +once," he said. The cowboys had always +treated him with the utmost courtesy, +both on the round-up and in camp; "and +the few real desperadoes I have seen were +also perfectly polite." Once only was he +maliciously shot at, and then not by a +cowboy nor a <i>bona fide</i> "bad man," but +by a "broad-hatted ruffian of a cheap and +common-place type." He had been compelled +to pass the night at a little frontier +hotel where the bar-room occupied the +whole lower floor, and was, in consequence, +the only place where the guests of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 55]</a></span> +hotel, whether drunk or sober, could sit. +As he entered the room, he saw that every +man there was being terrorized by a half-drunken +ruffian who stood in the middle +of the floor with a revolver in each hand, +compelling different ones to treat.</p> + +<p>"I went and sat down behind the stove," +said the President, "as far from him as I +could get; and hoped to escape his notice. +The fact that I wore glasses, together +with my evident desire to avoid a fight, +apparently gave him the impression that +I could be imposed upon with impunity. +He very soon approached me, flourishing +his two guns, and ordered me to treat. I +made no reply for some moments, when +the fellow became so threatening that I +saw something had to be done. The +crowd, mostly sheep-herders and small +grangers, sat or stood back against the +wall, afraid to move. I was unarmed, +and thought rapidly. Saying, 'Well, if I +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 56]</a></span> +must, I must,' I got up as if to walk around +him to the bar, then, as I got opposite him, +I wheeled and fetched him as heavy a +blow on the chin-point as I could strike. +He went down like a steer before the axe, +firing both guns into the ceiling as he went. +I jumped on him, and, with my knees on +his chest, disarmed him in a hurry. The +crowd was then ready enough to help me, +and we hog-tied him and put him in an +outhouse." The President alludes to this +incident in his "Ranch Life," but does not +give the details. It brings out his mettle +very distinctly.</p> + +<p>He told us in an amused way of the +attempts of his political opponents at Albany, +during his early career as a member +of the Assembly, to besmirch his character. +His outspoken criticisms and denunciations +had become intolerable to +them, so they laid a trap for him, but he +was not caught. His innate rectitude and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 57]</a></span> +instinct for the right course saved him, +as it has saved him many times since. I +do not think that in any emergency he has +to debate with himself long as to the right +course to be pursued; he divines it by a +kind of infallible instinct. His motives +are so simple and direct that he finds a +straight and easy course where another +man, whose eye is less single, would flounder +and hesitate.</p> + +<p>One night he entertained us with reminiscences +of the Cuban War, of his efforts +to get his men to the firing line when the +fighting began, of his greenness and general +ignorance of the whole business of +war, which in his telling was very amusing. +He has probably put it all in his book +about the war, a work I have not yet read. +He described the look of the slope of Kettle +Hill when they were about to charge up it, +how the grass was combed and rippled by +the storm of rifle bullets that swept down +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 58]</a></span> +it. He said, "I was conscious of being +pale when I looked at it and knew that in +a few moments we were going to charge +there." The men of his regiment were all +lying flat upon the ground, and it became +his duty to walk along their front and encourage +them and order them up on their +feet. "Get up, men, get up!" One big +fellow did not rise. Roosevelt stooped +down and took hold of him and ordered +him up. Just at that moment a bullet +struck the man and went the entire length +of him. He never rose.</p> + +<p>On this or on another occasion when +a charge was ordered, he found himself a +hundred yards or more in advance of his +regiment, with only the color bearer and +one corporal with him. He said they +planted the flag there, while he rushed +back to fetch the men. He was evidently +pretty hot. "Can it be that you flinched +when I led the way!" and then they came +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 59]</a></span> +with a rush. On the summit of Kettle +Hill he was again in advance of his men, +and as he came up, three Spaniards rose +out of the trenches and deliberately fired +at him at a distance of only a few paces, +and then turned and fled. But a bullet +from his revolver stopped one of them. +He seems to have been as much exposed to +bullets in this engagement as Washington +was at Braddock's defeat, and to have +escaped in the same marvelous manner.</p> + +<p>The President unites in himself powers +and qualities that rarely go together. +Thus, he has both physical and moral +courage in a degree rare in history. He +can stand calm and unflinching in the +path of a charging grizzly, and he can +confront with equal coolness and determination +the predaceous corporations +and money powers of the country.</p> + +<p>He unites the qualities of the man of +action with those of the scholar and writer,—another +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 60]</a></span> +very rare combination. He +unites the instincts and accomplishments +of the best breeding and culture with the +broadest democratic sympathies and affiliations. +He is as happy with a frontiersman +like Seth Bullock as with a fellow +Harvard man, and Seth Bullock is happy, +too.</p> + +<p>He unites great austerity with great +good nature. He unites great sensibility +with great force and will power. He loves +solitude, and he loves to be in the thick +of the fight. His love of nature is equaled +only by his love of the ways and marts of +men.</p> + +<p>He is doubtless the most vital man on +the continent, if not on the planet, to-day. +He is many-sided, and every side throbs +with his tremendous life and energy; the +pressure is equal all around. His interests +are as keen in natural history as in +economics, in literature as in statecraft, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 61]</a></span> +in the young poet as in the old soldier, +in preserving peace as in preparing for +war. And he can turn all his great power +into the new channel on the instant. His +interest in the whole of life, and in the +whole life of the nation, never flags for a +moment. His activity is tireless. All the +relaxation he needs or craves is a change +of work. He is like the farmer's fields, +that only need a rotation of crops. I +once heard him say that all he cared +about being President was just "the big +work."</p> + +<p>During this tour through the West, +lasting over two months, he made nearly +three hundred speeches; and yet on his +return Mrs. Roosevelt told me he looked +as fresh and unworn as when he left home.</p> + +<p>We went up into the big geyser region +with the big sleighs, each drawn by four +horses. A big snow-bank had to be shoveled +through for us before we got to the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 62]</a></span> +Golden Gate, two miles above Mammoth +Hot Springs. Beyond that we were at an +altitude of about eight thousand feet, on +a fairly level course that led now through +woods, and now through open country, +with the snow of a uniform depth of four +or five feet, except as we neared the "formations," +where the subterranean warmth +kept the ground bare. The roads had +been broken and the snow packed for us +by teams from the fort, otherwise the +journey would have been impossible.</p> + +<p>The President always rode beside the +driver. From his youth, he said, this seat +had always been the most desirable one to +him. When the sleigh would strike the +bare ground, and begin to drag heavily, +he would bound out nimbly and take +to his heels, and then all three of us—Major +Pitcher, Mr. Childs, and myself—would +follow suit, sometimes reluctantly +on my part. Walking at that altitude is +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 63]</a></span> +no fun, especially if you try to keep pace +with such a walker as the President is. +But he could not sit at his ease and let +those horses drag him in a sleigh over +bare ground. When snow was reached, +we would again quickly resume our seats.</p> + +<p>As one nears the geyser region, he gets +the impression from the columns of steam +going up here and there in the distance—now +from behind a piece of woods, now +from out a hidden valley—that he is approaching +a manufacturing centre, or a +railroad terminus. And when he begins +to hear the hoarse snoring of "Roaring +Mountain," the illusion is still more complete. +At Norris's there is a big vent +where the steam comes tearing out of a +recent hole in the ground with terrific +force. Huge mounds of ice had formed +from the congealed vapor all around it, +some of them very striking.</p> + +<p>The novelty of the geyser region soon +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 64]</a></span> +wears off. Steam and hot water are steam +and hot water the world over, and the +exhibition of them here did not differ, +except in volume, from what one sees by +his own fireside. The "Growler" is only +a boiling tea-kettle on a large scale, and +"Old Faithful" is as if the lid were to fly +off, and the whole contents of the kettle +should be thrown high into the air. To +be sure, boiling lakes and steaming rivers +are not common, but the new features +seemed, somehow, out of place, and as if +nature had made a mistake. One disliked +to see so much good steam and hot water +going to waste; whole towns might be +warmed by them, and big wheels made +to go round. I wondered that they had +not piped them into the big hotels which +they opened for us, and which were +warmed by wood fires.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 648px;"> +<a name="img64" id="img64"></a> +<img src="images/i008.jpg" height="1024" width="648" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>SUNRISE IN YELLOWSTONE PARK.</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1904, by Underwood & Underwood, New York.</span> +</div> + +<p>At Norris's the big room that the President +and I occupied was on the ground +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 65]</a></span> +floor, and was heated by a huge box stove. +As we entered it to go to bed, the President +said, "Oom John, don't you think +it is too hot here?"</p> + +<p>"I certainly do," I replied.</p> + +<p>"Shall I open the window?"</p> + +<p>"That will just suit me." And he +threw the sash, which came down to the +floor, all the way up, making an opening +like a doorway. The night was cold, but +neither of us suffered from the abundance +of fresh air.</p> + +<p>The caretaker of the building was a +big Swede called Andy. In the morning +Andy said that beat him: "There was +the President of the United States sleeping +in that room, with the window open to the +floor, and not so much as one soldier outside +on guard."</p> + +<p>The President had counted much on +seeing the bears that in summer board at +the Fountain Hotel, but they were not yet +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 66]</a></span> +out of their dens. We saw the track of +only one, and he was not making for the +hotel. At all the formations where the +geysers are, the ground was bare over a +large area. I even saw a wild flower—an +early buttercup, not an inch high—in +bloom. This seems to be the earliest +wild flower in the Rockies. It is the only +fragrant buttercup I know.</p> + +<p>As we were riding along in our big +sleigh toward the Fountain Hotel, the +President suddenly jumped out, and, +with his soft hat as a shield to his hand, +captured a mouse that was running along +over the ground near us. He wanted it +for Dr. Merriam, on the chance that it +might be a new species. While we all +went fishing in the afternoon, the President +skinned his mouse, and prepared +the pelt to be sent to Washington. It was +done as neatly as a professed taxidermist +would have done it. This was the only +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 67]</a></span> +game the President killed in the Park. In +relating the incident to a reporter while +I was in Spokane, the thought occurred +to me, Suppose he changes that <i>u</i> to an <i>o</i>, +and makes the President capture a moose, +what a pickle I shall be in! Is it anything +more than ordinary newspaper enterprise +to turn a mouse into a moose? But, luckily +for me, no such metamorphosis happened +to that little mouse. It turned out +not to be a new species, as it should have +been, but a species new to the Park.</p> + +<p>I caught trout that afternoon, on the +edge of steaming pools in the Madison +River that seemed to my hand almost +blood-warm. I suppose they found better +feeding where the water was warm. On +the table they did not compare with our +Eastern brook trout.</p> + +<p>I was pleased to be told at one of the +hotels that they had kalsomined some of +the rooms with material from one of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 68]</a></span> +devil's paint-pots. It imparted a soft, delicate, +pinkish tint, not at all suggestive of +things satanic.</p> + +<p>One afternoon at Norris's, the President +and I took a walk to observe the +birds. In the grove about the barns there +was a great number, the most attractive +to me being the mountain bluebird. These +birds we saw in all parts of the Park, and +at Norris's there was an unusual number +of them. How blue they were,—breast +and all! In voice and manner they +were almost identical with our bluebird. +The Western purple finch was abundant +here also, and juncos, and several kinds +of sparrows, with an occasional Western +robin. A pair of wild geese were feeding +in the low, marshy ground not over one +hundred yards from us, but when we +tried to approach nearer they took wing. +A few geese and ducks seem to winter in +the Park.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 69]</a></span></p> + +<p>The second morning at Norris's one +of our teamsters, George Marvin, suddenly +dropped dead from some heart affection, +just as he had finished caring for +his team. It was a great shock to us all. +I never saw a better man with a team +than he was. I had ridden on the seat +beside him all the day previous. On one +of the "formations" our teams had got +mired in the soft, putty-like mud, and at +one time it looked as if they could never +extricate themselves, and I doubt if they +could have, had it not been for the skill +with which Marvin managed them. We +started for the Grand Cañon up the Yellowstone +that morning, and, in order to +give myself a walk over the crisp snow in +the clear, frosty air, I set out a little while +in advance of the teams. As I did so, I +saw the President, accompanied by one +of the teamsters, walking hurriedly toward +the barn to pay his last respects to +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 70]</a></span> +the body of Marvin. After we had returned +to Mammoth Hot Springs, he +made inquiries for the young woman to +whom he had been told that Marvin was +engaged to be married. He looked her +up, and sat a long time with her in her +home, offering his sympathy, and speaking +words of consolation. The act shows +the depth and breadth of his humanity.</p> + +<p>At the Cañon Hotel the snow was very +deep, and had become so soft from the +warmth of the earth beneath, as well as +from the sun above, that we could only +reach the brink of the Cañon on skis. +The President and Major Pitcher had +used skis before, but I had not, and, +starting out without the customary pole, +I soon came to grief. The snow gave way +beneath me, and I was soon in an awkward +predicament. The more I struggled, +the lower my head and shoulders went, +till only my heels, strapped to those long +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 71]</a></span> +timbers, protruded above the snow. To +reverse my position was impossible till +some one came and reached me the end +of a pole, and pulled me upright. But I +very soon got the hang of the things, and +the President and I quickly left the superintendent +behind. I think I could have +passed the President, but my manners +forbade. He was heavier than I was, and +broke in more. When one of his feet +would go down half a yard or more, I +noted with admiration the skilled diplomacy +he displayed in extricating it. The +tendency of my skis was all the time to +diverge, and each to go off at an acute +angle to my main course, and I had constantly +to be on the alert to check this +tendency.</p> + +<p>Paths had been shoveled for us along +the brink of the Cañon, so that we got +the usual views from the different points. +The Cañon was nearly free from snow, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 72]</a></span> +and was a grand spectacle, by far the +grandest to be seen in the Park. The +President told us that once, when pressed +for meat, while returning through here +from one of his hunting trips, he had +made his way down to the river that we +saw rushing along beneath us, and had +caught some trout for dinner. Necessity +alone could induce him to fish.</p> + +<p>Across the head of the Falls there was +a bridge of snow and ice, upon which we +were told that the coyotes passed. As the +season progressed, there would come a +day when the bridge would not be safe. +It would be interesting to know if the +coyotes knew when this time arrived.</p> + +<p>The only live thing we saw in the +Cañon was an osprey perched upon a +rock opposite us.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;"> +<a name="img72" id="img72"></a> +<img src="images/i009.jpg" width="1024" height="648" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>THE PRESIDENT ON A TRAIL</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1905, by Underwood & Underwood, New York</span> +</div> + +<p>Near the falls of the Yellowstone, as at +other places we had visited, a squad of +soldiers had their winter quarters. The +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 73]</a></span> +President called on them, as he had called +upon the others, looked over the books +they had to read, examined their housekeeping +arrangements, and conversed +freely with them.</p> + +<p>In front of the hotel were some low hills +separated by gentle valleys. At the President's +suggestion, he and I raced on our +skis down those inclines. We had only to +stand up straight, and let gravity do the +rest. As we were going swiftly down +the side of one of the hills, I saw out of +the corner of my eye the President taking +a header into the snow. The snow had +given way beneath him, and nothing +could save him from taking the plunge. +I don't know whether I called out, or +only thought, something about the downfall +of the administration. At any rate, +the administration was down, and pretty +well buried, but it was quickly on its feet +again, shaking off the snow with a boy's +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 74]</a></span> +laughter. I kept straight on, and very +soon the laugh was on me, for the treacherous +snow sank beneath me, and I took +a header, too.</p> + +<p>"Who is laughing now, Oom John?" +called out the President.</p> + +<p>The spirit of the boy was in the air +that day about the Cañon of the Yellowstone, +and the biggest boy of us all was +President Roosevelt.</p> + +<p>The snow was getting so soft in the +middle of the day that our return to the +Mammoth Hot Springs could no longer +be delayed. Accordingly, we were up in +the morning, and ready to start on the +home journey, a distance of twenty miles, +by four o'clock. The snow bore up the +horses well till mid-forenoon, when it +began to give way beneath them. But +by very careful management we pulled +through without serious delay, and were +back again at the house of Major Pitcher +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 75]</a></span> +in time for luncheon, being the only outsiders +who had ever made the tour of the +Park so early in the season.</p> + +<p>A few days later I bade good-by to the +President, who went on his way to California, +while I made a loop of travel to +Spokane, and around through Idaho and +Montana, and had glimpses of the great, +optimistic, sunshiny West that I shall not +soon forget.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 76]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 77]</a></span></p> +<h1>PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT AS A<br /> +NATURE-LOVER AND<br /> +OBSERVER</h1> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 78]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 79]</a></span></p> +<h2>PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT AS A NATURE-LOVER AND OBSERVER</h2> + + +<p>Our many-sided President has a side +to his nature of which the public has +heard but little, and which, in view of +his recent criticism of what he calls the +nature fakirs, is of especial interest and +importance. I refer to his keenness and +enthusiasm as a student of animal life, +and his extraordinary powers of observation. +The charge recently made against +him that he is only a sportsman and has +only a sportsman's interest in nature is +very wide of the mark. Why, I cannot +now recall that I have ever met a man +with a keener and more comprehensive +interest in the wild life about us—an +interest that is at once scientific and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 80]</a></span> +thoroughly human. And by human I do +not mean anything akin to the sentimentalism +that sicklies o'er so much of our +more recent natural history writing, and +that inspires the founding of hospitals +for sick cats; but I mean his robust, +manly love for all open-air life, and his +sympathetic insight into it. When I first +read his "Wilderness Hunter," many +years ago, I was impressed by his rare +combination of the sportsman and the +naturalist. When I accompanied him on +his trip to the Yellowstone Park in April, +1903, I got a fresh impression of the extent +of his natural history knowledge and +of his trained powers of observation. Nothing +escaped him, from bears to mice, +from wild geese to chickadees, from elk +to red squirrels; he took it all in, and he +took it in as only an alert, vigorous mind +can take it in. On that occasion I was +able to help him identify only one new +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 81]</a></span> +bird, as I have related in the foregoing +chapter. All the other birds he recognized +as quickly as I did.</p> + +<p>During a recent half-day spent with +the President at Sagamore Hill I got a +still more vivid impression of his keenness +and quickness in all natural history +matters. The one passion of his life +seemed natural history, and the appearance +of a new warbler in his woods—new +in the breeding season on Long +Island—seemed an event that threw the +affairs of state and of the presidential +succession quite into the background. +Indeed, he fairly bubbled over with delight +at the thought of his new birds and +at the prospect of showing them to his +visitors. He said to my friend who accompanied +me, John Lewis Childs, of +Floral Park, a former State Senator, that +he could not talk politics then, he wanted +to talk and to hunt birds. And it was not +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 82]</a></span> +long before he was as hot on the trail of +that new warbler as he had recently been +on the trail of some of the great trusts. +Fancy a President of the United States +stalking rapidly across bushy fields to +the woods, eager as a boy and filled with +the one idea of showing to his visitors the +black-throated green warbler! We were +presently in the edge of the woods and +standing under a locust tree, where the +President had several times seen and +heard his rare visitant. "That's his note +now," he said, and we all three recognized +it at the same instant. It came from +across a little valley fifty yards farther in +the woods. We were soon standing under +the tree in which the bird was singing, +and presently had our glasses upon him.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;"> +<a name="img82" id="img82"></a> +<img src="images/i010.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>THE PRESIDENT'S HOME ON SAGAMORE HILL, SHOWING ADDITION KNOWN AS THE TROPHY ROOM</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1907, by Underwood & Underwood, New York</span> +</div> + +<p>"There is no mistake about it, Mr. +President," we both said; "it is surely +the black-throated green," and he laughed +in glee. "I knew it could be no other; +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 83]</a></span> +there is no mistaking that song and those +markings. 'Trees, trees, murmuring +trees!' some one reports him as saying. +Now if we could only find the nest;" but +we did not, though it was doubtless not +far off.</p> + +<p>Our warblers, both in color and in song, +are bewildering even to the experienced +ornithologist, but the President had mastered +most of them. Not long before he +had written me from Washington that he +had just come in from walking with Mrs. +Roosevelt about the White House grounds +looking up arriving warblers. "Most of +the warblers were up in the tops of the +trees, and I could not get a good glimpse +of them; but there was one with chestnut +cheeks, with bright yellow behind the +cheeks, and a yellow breast thickly +streaked with black, which has puzzled +me. Doubtless it is a very common kind +which has for the moment slipped my +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 84]</a></span> +memory. I saw the Blackburnian, the +summer yellowbird, and the black-throated +green." The next day he wrote +me that he had identified the puzzling +warbler; it was the Cape May. There is +a tradition among newspaper men in +Washington that a Cape May warbler +once broke up a Cabinet meeting; maybe +this was that identical bird.</p> + +<p>At luncheon he told us of some of his +ornithological excursions in the White +House grounds, how people would stare +at him as he stood gazing up into the +trees like one demented. "No doubt +they thought me insane." "Yes," said +Mrs. Roosevelt, "and as I was always +with him, they no doubt thought I was +the nurse that had him in charge."</p> + +<p>In his "Pastimes of an American +Hunter" he tells of the owls that in June +sometimes came after nightfall about the +White House. "Sometimes they flew +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 85]</a></span> +noiselessly to and fro, and seemingly +caught big insects on the wing. At other +times they would perch on the iron awning +bars directly overhead. Once one of +them perched over one of the windows +and sat motionless, looking exactly like +an owl of Pallas Athene."</p> + +<p>He knew the vireos also, and had seen +and heard the white-eyed at his Virginia +place, "Pine Knot," and he described +its peculiar, emphatic song. As I moved +along with the thought of this bird in +mind and its snappy, incisive song, as I +used to hear it in the old days near Washington, +I fancied I caught its note in a +dense bushy place below us. We paused +to listen. "A catbird," said the President, +and so we all agreed. We saw and heard +a chewink. "Out West the chewink calls +like a catbird," he observed. Continuing +our walk, we skirted the edge of an orchard. +Here the President called our +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 86]</a></span> +attention to a high-hole's nest in a cavity +of an old apple tree. He rapped on the +trunk of the tree that we might hear the +smothered cry for food of the young inside. +A few days before he had found +one of the half-fledged young on the +ground under the tree, and had managed +to reach up and drop it back into the +nest. "What a boiling there was in there," +he said, "when the youngster dropped +in!"</p> + +<p>A cuckoo called in a tree overhead, the +first I had heard this season. I feared +the cold spring had cut them off. "The +yellow-billed, undoubtedly," the President +observed, and was confirmed by Mr. +Childs. I was not certain that I knew +the call of the yellow-billed from that of +the black-billed. "We have them both," +said the President, "but the yellow-billed +is the more common."</p> + +<p>We continued our walk along a path +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 87]</a></span> +that led down through a most delightful +wood to the bay. Everywhere the marks +of the President's axe were visible, as he +had with his own hand thinned out and +cleared up a large section of the wood.</p> + +<p>A few days previous he had seen some +birds in a group of tulip-trees near the +edge of the woods facing the water; he +thought they were rose-breasted grosbeaks, +but could not quite make them +out. He had hoped to find them there +now, and we looked and listened for +some moments, but no birds appeared.</p> + +<p>Then he led us to a little pond in the +midst of the forest where the night heron +sometimes nested. A pair of them had +nested there in a big water maple the year +before, but the crows had broken them +up. As we reached the spot the cry of +the heron was heard over the tree-tops. +"That is its alarm note," said the President. +I remarked that it was much like +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 88]</a></span> +the cry of the little green heron. "Yes, +it is, but if we wait here till the heron returns, +and we are not discovered, you +would hear his other more characteristic +call, a hoarse quawk."</p> + +<p>Presently we moved on along another +path through the woods toward the +house. A large, wide-spreading oak attracted +my attention—a superb tree.</p> + +<p>"You see by the branching of that +oak," said the President, "that when it +grew up this wood was an open field and +maybe under the plough; it is only in fields +that oaks take that form." I knew it was +true, but my mind did not take in the fact +when I first saw the tree. His mind acts +with wonderful swiftness and completeness, +as I had abundant proof that day.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 648px;"> +<a name="img88" id="img88"></a> +<img src="images/i011.jpg" height="1024" width="648" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>A BIT OF WOODLAND ON THE SLOPE TOWARDS OYSTER BAY</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1907, by Underwood & Underwood, New York</span> +</div> + +<p>As we walked along we discussed many +questions, all bearing directly or indirectly +upon natural history. The conversation +was perpetually interrupted by some bird-note +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 89]</a></span> +in the trees about us which we would +pause to identify—the President's ear, +I thought, being the most alert of the +three. Continuing the talk, he dwelt upon +the inaccuracy of most persons' seeing, +and upon the unreliability as natural +history of most of the stories told by +guides and hunters. Sometimes writers +of repute were to be read with caution. +He mentioned that excellent hunting +book of Colonel Dodge's, in which are +described two species of the puma, one +in the West called the "mountain lion," +very fierce and dangerous; the other called +in the East the "panther,"—a harmless +and cowardly animal. "Both the same +species," said the President, "and almost +identical in disposition."</p> + +<p>Nothing is harder than to convince a +person that he has seen wrongly. The +other day a doctor accosted me in the +street of one of our inland towns to tell +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 90]</a></span> +me of a strange bird he had seen; the +bird was blood-red all over and was in +some low bushes by the roadside. Of +course I thought of our scarlet tanager, +which was then just arriving. No, he +knew that bird with black wings and tail; +this bird had no black upon it, but every +quill and feather was vivid scarlet. The +doctor was very positive, so I had to tell +him we had no such bird in our state. +There was the summer redbird common +in the Southern States, but this place is +much beyond its northern limit, and, besides, +this bird is not scarlet, but is of a +dull red. Of course he had seen a tanager, +but in the shade of the bushes the +black of the wings and tail had escaped +him.</p> + +<p>This was simply a case of mis-seeing +in an educated man; but in the untrained +minds of trappers and woodsmen generally +there is an element of the superstitious, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 91]</a></span> +and a love for the marvelous, which +often prevents them from seeing the wild +life about them just as it is. They possess +the mythop[oe]ic faculty, and they +unconsciously give play to it.</p> + +<p>Thus our talk wandered as we wandered +along the woods and field paths. +The President brought us back by the +corner of a clover meadow where he was +sure a pair of red-shouldered starlings +had a nest. He knew it was an unlikely +place for starlings to nest, as they breed +in marshes and along streams and in the +low bushes on lake borders, but this pair +had always shown great uneasiness when +he had approached this plot of tall clover. +As we drew near, the male starling appeared +and uttered his alarm note. The +President struck out to look for the nest, +and for a time the Administration was +indeed in clover, with the alarmed black-bird +circling above it and showing great +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 92]</a></span> +agitation. For my part, I hesitated on the +edge of the clover patch, having a farmer's +dread of seeing fine grass trampled down. +I suggested to the President that he was +injuring his hay crop; that the nest +was undoubtedly there or near there; so +he came out of the tall grass, and, after +looking into the old tumbled-down barn—a +regular early settler's barn, with +huge timbers hewn from forest trees—that +stood near by, and which the President +said he preserved for its picturesqueness +and its savor of old times, as well as +for a place to romp in with his dogs and +children, we made our way to the house.</p> + +<p>The purple finch nested in the trees +about the house, and the President was +greatly pleased that he was able to show +us this bird also.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 648px;"> +<a name="img92" id="img92"></a> +<img src="images/i012.jpg" height="1024" width="648" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>A PATH IN THE WOODS LEADING TO COLD SPRING HARBOR</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1907, by Underwood & Underwood, New York</span> +</div> + +<p>A few days previous to our visit the +children had found a bird's nest on the +ground, in the grass, a few yards below +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 93]</a></span> +the front of the house. There were young +birds in it, and as the President had seen +the grasshopper sparrow about there, he +concluded the nest belonged to it. We +went down to investigate it, and found +the young gone and two addled eggs in +the nest. When the President saw those +eggs, he said: "That is not the nest of the +grasshopper sparrow, after all; those are +the eggs of the song sparrow, though +the nest is more like that of the vesper +sparrow. The eggs of the grasshopper +sparrow are much lighter in color—almost +white, with brown specks." For +my part, I had quite forgotten for the +moment how the eggs of the little sparrow +looked or differed in color from those of +the song sparrow. But the President has +so little to remember that he forgets none +of these minor things! His bird-lore +and wood-lore seem as fresh as if just +learned.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 94]</a></span></p> + +<p>I asked him if he ever heard that rare +piece of bird music, the flight song of the +oven-bird. "Yes," he replied, "we frequently +hear it of an evening, while we +are sitting on the porch, right down there +at the corner of the woods." Now, this +flight song of the oven-bird was unknown +to the older ornithologists, and Thoreau, +with all his years of patient and tireless +watching of birds and plants, never identified +it; but the President had caught it +quickly and easily, sitting on his porch +at Sagamore Hill. I believe I may take +the credit of being the first to identify +and describe this song—back in the old +"Wake Robin" days.</p> + +<p>In an inscription in a book the President +had just given me he had referred +to himself as my pupil. Now I was to be +his pupil. In dealing with the birds I +could keep pace with him pretty easily, +and, maybe, occasionally lead him; but +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 95]</a></span> +when we came to consider big game and +the animal life of the globe, I was nowhere. +His experience with the big game +has been very extensive, and his acquaintance +with the literature of the subject is +far beyond my own; and he forgets nothing, +while my memory is a sieve. In +his study he set before me a small bronze +elephant in action, made by the famous +French sculptor Barye. He asked me if I +saw anything wrong with it. I looked it +over carefully, and was obliged to confess +that, so far as I could see, it was all right. +Then he placed before me another, by a +Japanese artist. Instantly I saw what was +wrong with the Frenchman's elephant. +Its action was like that of a horse or a +cow, or any trotting animal—a hind +and a front foot on opposite sides moving +together. The Japanese had caught +the real movement of the animal, which +is that of a pacer—both legs on the same +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 96]</a></span> +side at a time. What different effects the +two actions gave the statuettes! The free +swing of the Japanese elephant you at +once recognize as the real thing. The +President laughed, and said he had never +seen any criticism of Barye's elephant on +this ground, or any allusion to his mistake; +it was his own discovery. I was fairly +beaten at my own game of observation.</p> + +<p>He then took down a copy of his +"Ranch Life and the Hunting Trail," +and pointed out to me the mistakes the +artist had made in some of his drawings +of big Western game.</p> + +<p>"Do you see anything wrong in the +head of the pronghorn?" he asked, referring +to the animal which the hunter is +bringing in on the saddle behind him. +Again I had to confess that I could not. +Then he showed me the mounted head +of a pronghorn over the mantel in one of +his rooms, and called my attention to the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 97]</a></span> +fact that the eye was close under the root +of the horn, whereas in the picture the +artist had placed it about two inches too +low. And in the artist's picture of the +pronghorn, which heads Chapter IX, he +had made the tail much too long, as he +had the tail of the elk on the opposite +page.</p> + +<p>I had heard of Mr. Roosevelt's attending +a fair in Orange County, while he +was Governor, where a group of mounted +deer were exhibited. It seems the group +had had rough usage, and one of the deer +had lost its tail and a new one had been +supplied. No one had noticed anything +wrong with it till Mr. Roosevelt came +along. "But the minute he clapped his +eyes on that group," says the exhibitor, +"he called out, 'Here, Gunther, what do +you mean by putting a white-tail deer's +tail on a black-tail deer?" Such closeness +and accuracy of observation even few +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 98]</a></span> +naturalists can lay claim to. I mentioned +the incident to him, and he recalled it +laughingly. He then took down a volume +on the deer family which he had himself +had a share in writing, and pointed out +two mistakes in the naming of the pictures +which had been overlooked. The +picture of the "white-tail in flight" was +the black-tail of Colorado, and the picture +of the black-tail of Colorado showed the +black-tail of Columbia—the difference +this time being seen in the branching of +the horns.</p> + +<p>The President took us through his +house and showed us his trophies of the +chase—bearskins of all sorts and sizes +on the floors, panther and lynx skins on +the chairs, and elk heads and deer heads +on the walls, and one very large skin of +the gray timber wolf. We examined the +teeth of the wolf, barely more than an +inch long, and we all laughed at the idea +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 99]</a></span> +of its reaching the heart of a caribou +through the breast by a snap, or any +number of snaps, as it has been reported +to do. I doubt if it could have reached +the heart of a gobbler turkey in that way +at a single snap.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 648px;"> +<a name="img98" id="img98"></a> +<img src="images/i013.jpg" height="1024" width="648" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>A YEARLING IN THE APPLE ORCHARD</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1907, by Underwood & Underwood, New York</span> +</div> + +<p>The President's interest in birds, and +in natural history generally, dates from +his youth. While yet in his teens he published +a list of the birds of Franklin +County, New York. He showed me a +bird journal which he kept in Egypt +when he was a lad of fourteen, and a +case of three African plovers which he +had set up at that time; and they were +well done.</p> + +<p>Evidently one of his chief sources of +pleasure at Sagamore Hill is the companionship +of the birds. He missed the +bobolink, the seaside finch, and the +marsh wren, but his woods and grounds +abounded in other species. He knew and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 100]</a></span> +enjoyed not only all the more common +birds, but many rarer and shyer ones +that few country people ever take note +of—such as the Maryland yellow-throat, +the black and white creeper, the yellow-breasted +chat, the oven-bird, the prairie +warbler, the great crested flycatcher, the +wood pewee, and the sharp-tailed finch. +He enjoyed the little owls, too. "It is a +pity the little-eared owl is called a screech +owl. Its tremulous, quavering cry is not +a screech at all, and has an attraction of +its own. These little owls come up to the +house after dark, and are fond of sitting +on the elk's antlers over the gable. When +the moon is up, by choosing one's position, +the little owl appears in sharp outline +against the bright disk, seated on his +many-tined perch."</p> + +<p>A few days after my visit he wrote me +that he had identified the yellow-throated +or Dominican warbler in his woods, the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 101]</a></span> +first he had ever seen. I had to confess +to him that I had never seen the bird. It +is very rare north of Maryland. The +same letter records several interesting +little incidents in the wild life about him:</p> + +<p>"The other night I took out the boys +in rowboats for a camping-out expedition. +We camped on the beach under a +low bluff near the grove where a few +years ago on a similar expedition we saw +a red fox. This time two young foxes, +evidently this year's cubs, came around +the camp half a dozen times during the +night, coming up within ten yards of the +fire to pick up scraps and seeming to be +very little bothered by our presence. Yesterday +on the tennis ground I found a +mole shrew. He was near the side lines +first. I picked him up in my handkerchief, +for he bit my hand, and after we +had all looked at him I let him go; but +in a few minutes he came back and deliberately +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 102]</a></span> +crossed the tennis grounds by the +net. As he ran over the level floor of the +court, his motion reminded all of us of +the motion of those mechanical mice that +run around on wheels when wound up. +A chipmunk that lives near the tennis +court continually crosses it when the +game is in progress. He has done it two +or three times this year, and either he or +his predecessor has had the same habit +for several years. I am really puzzled +to know why he should go across this +perfectly bare surface, with the players +jumping about on it, when he is not +frightened and has no reason that I can +see for going. Apparently he grows accustomed +to the players and moves about +among them as he would move about, for +instance, among a herd of cattle."</p> + +<p>The President is a born nature-lover, +and he has what does not always go with +this passion—remarkable powers of observation. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 103]</a></span> +He sees quickly and surely, +not less so with the corporeal eye than +with the mental. His exceptional vitality, +his awareness all around, gives the +clue to his powers of seeing. The chief +qualification of a born observer is an +alert, sensitive, objective type of mind, +and this Roosevelt has in a preëminent +degree.</p> + +<p>You may know the true observer, not +by the big things he sees, but by the +little things; and then not by the things +he sees with effort and premeditation, but +by his effortless, unpremeditated seeing—the +quick, spontaneous action of his mind +in the presence of natural objects. Everybody +sees the big things, and anybody can +go out with note-book and opera-glass and +make a dead set at the birds, or can go +into the northern forests and interview +guides and trappers and Indians, and +stare in at the door of the "school of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 104]</a></span> +woods." None of these things evince +powers of observation; they only evince +industry and intention. In fact, born observers +are about as rare as born poets. +Plenty of men can see straight and report +straight what they see; but the men who +see what others miss, who see quickly +and surely, who have the detective eye, +like Sherlock Holmes, who "get the +drop," so to speak, on every object, who +see minutely and who see whole, are rare +indeed.</p> + +<p>President Roosevelt comes as near +fulfilling this ideal as any man I have +known. His mind moves with wonderful +celerity, and yet as an observer he is +very cautious, jumps to no hasty conclusions.</p> + +<p>He had written me, toward the end of +May, that while at Pine Knot in Virginia +he had seen a small flock of passenger +pigeons. As I had been following +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 105]</a></span> +up the reports of wild pigeons from various +parts of our own state during the +past two or three years, this statement of +the President's made me prick up my +ears. In my reply I said, "I hope you are +sure about those pigeons," and I told +him of my interest in the subject, and +also how all reports of pigeons in the +East had been discredited by a man in +Michigan who was writing a book on the +subject. This made him prick up his +ears, and he replied that while he felt very +certain he had seen a small band of the +old wild pigeons, yet he might have been +deceived; the eye sometimes plays one +tricks. He said that in his old ranch days +he and a cowboy companion thought one +day that they had discovered a colony of +<i>black</i> prairie dogs, thanks entirely to the +peculiar angle at which the light struck +them. He said that while he was President +he did not want to make any statement, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 106]</a></span> +even about pigeons, for the truth +of which he did not have good evidence. +He would have the matter looked into by +a friend at Pine Knot upon whom he +could depend. He did so, and convinced +himself and me also that he had really +seen wild pigeons. I had the pleasure of +telling him that in the same mail with +his letter came the news to me of a large +flock of wild pigeons having been seen +near the Beaverkill in Sullivan County, +New York. While he was verifying his +observation I was in Sullivan County +verifying this report. I saw and questioned +persons who had seen the pigeons, +and I came away fully convinced that a +flock of probably a thousand birds had +been seen there late in the afternoon of +May 23. "You need have no doubt +about it," said the most competent +witness, an old farmer. "I lived here +when the pigeons nested here in countless +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 107]</a></span> +numbers forty years ago. I know +pigeons as I know folks, and these were +pigeons."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;"> +<a name="img106" id="img106"></a> +<img src="images/i014.jpg" width="1024" height="648" alt="" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><big>HALLWAY, SAGAMORE HILL</big><br /> +From stereograph, copyright 1907, by Underwood & Underwood, New York</span> +</div> + +<p>I mention this incident of the pigeons +because I know that the fact that they +have been lately seen in considerable +numbers will be good news to a large +number of readers.</p> + +<p>The President's nature-love is deep +and abiding. Not every bird student +succeeds in making the birds a part of +his life. Not till you have long and sympathetic +intercourse with them, in fact, +not till you have loved them for their own +sake, do they enter into and become a +part of your life. I could quote many +passages from President Roosevelt's +books which show how he has felt and +loved the birds, and how discriminating +his ear is with regard to their songs. Here +is one:—</p> + +<p>"The meadow-lark is a singer of a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 108]</a></span> +higher order [than the plains skylark], +deserving to rank with the best. Its song +has length, variety, power, and rich melody, +and there is in it sometimes a cadence +of wild sadness inexpressibly touching. +Yet I cannot say that either song +would appeal to others as it appeals to me; +for to me it comes forever laden with a +hundred memories and associations—with +the sight of dim hills reddening in +the dawn, with the breath of cool morning +winds blowing across lonely plains, +with the scent of flowers on the sunlit +prairie, with the motion of fiery horses, +with all the strong thrill of eager and +buoyant life. I doubt if any man can +judge dispassionately the bird-songs of +his own country; he cannot disassociate +them from the sights and sounds of the +land that is so dear to him."</p> + +<p>Here is another, touching upon some +European song-birds as compared with +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 109]</a></span> +some of our own: "No one can help liking +the lark; it is such a brave, honest, +cheery bird, and moreover its song is uttered +in the air, and is very long-sustained. +But it is by no means a musician of the +first rank. The nightingale is a performer +of a very different and far higher order; +yet though it is indeed a notable and +admirable singer, it is an exaggeration +to call it unequaled. In melody, and +above all in that finer, higher melody +where the chords vibrate with the touch +of eternal sorrow, it cannot rank with +such singers as the wood-thrush and +the hermit-thrush. The serene ethereal +beauty of the hermit's song, rising and +falling through the still evening, under +the archways of hoary mountain forests +that have endured from time everlasting; +the golden, leisurely chiming of the wood-thrush, +sounding on June afternoons, +stanza by stanza, through the sun-flecked +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 110]</a></span> +groves of tall hickories, oaks, and chestnuts; +with these there is nothing in the +nightingale's song to compare. But in +volume and continuity, in tuneful, voluble, +rapid outpouring and ardor, above +all in skillful and intricate variation of +theme, its song far surpasses that of +either of the thrushes. In all these respects +it is more just to compare it with +the mocking-bird's, which, as a rule, likewise +falls short precisely on those points +where the songs of the two thrushes +excel."</p> + +<p>In his "Pastimes of an American +Hunter" he says: "It is an incalculable +added pleasure to any one's sense of happiness +if he or she grows to know, even +slightly and imperfectly, how to read and +enjoy the wonder-book of nature. All +hunters should be nature-lovers. It is to +be hoped that the days of mere wasteful, +boastful slaughter are past, and that +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 111]</a></span> +from now on the hunter will stand foremost +in working for the preservation and +perpetuation of the wild life, whether big +or little." Surely this man is the rarest +kind of a sportsman.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Camping & Tramping with Roosevelt, by +John Burroughs + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMPING & TRAMPING WITH ROOSEVELT *** + +***** This file should be named 33053-h.htm or 33053-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/0/5/33053/ + +Produced by David Edwards and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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