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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Invention of the Sewing Machine, by
+Grace Rogers Cooper
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Invention of the Sewing Machine
+
+Author: Grace Rogers Cooper
+
+Release Date: June 4, 2010 [EBook #32677]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Joseph Cooper, Louise Pattison
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
+UNITED STATES NATIONAL MUSEUM
+
+[Illustration]
+
+BULLETIN 254
+
+WASHINGTON, D.C.
+
+1968
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION PRESS
+
+
+
+
+_The Invention
+Of the Sewing Machine_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Grace Rogers Cooper_
+
+CURATOR OF TEXTILES
+MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY
+
+SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D.C. 1968
+
+
+
+
+_Publications of the United States National Museum_
+
+
+The scholarly and scientific publications of the United States National
+Museum include two series, _Proceedings of the United States National
+Museum_ and _United States National Museum Bulletin_.
+
+In these series, the Museum publishes original articles and monographs
+dealing with the collections and work of its constituent museums--The
+Museum of Natural History and the Museum of History and
+Technology--setting forth newly acquired facts in the fields of
+anthropology, biology, history, geology, and technology. Copies of each
+publication are distributed to libraries, to cultural and scientific
+organizations, and to specialists and others interested in the different
+subjects.
+
+The _Proceedings_, begun in 1878, are intended for the publication, in
+separate form, of shorter papers from the Museum of Natural History.
+These are gathered in volumes, octavo in size, with the publication date
+of each paper recorded in the table of contents of the volume.
+
+In the _Bulletin_ series, the first of which was issued in 1875, appear
+longer, separate publications consisting of monographs (occasionally in
+several parts) and volumes in which are collected works on related
+subjects. _Bulletins_ are either octavo or quarto in size, depending on
+the needs of the presentation. Since 1902 papers relating to the
+botanical collections of the Museum of Natural History have been
+published in the _Bulletin_ series under the heading _Contributions from
+the United States National Herbarium_ and, since 1959, in _Bulletins_
+titled "Contributions from the Museum of History and Technology," have
+been gathered shorter papers relating to the collections and research of
+that Museum.
+
+This work forms volume 254 of the _Bulletin_ series.
+
+  Frank A. Taylor
+  _Director, United States National Museum_
+
+  For sale by Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office
+  Washington, D.C. 20402--Price $2.75
+
+
+
+
+_Contents_
+
+
+   Preface                                                   vii
+
+   Acknowledgments                                          viii
+
+1. Early Efforts                                               1
+
+2. Elements of a Successful Machine                           17
+
+3. The "Sewing-Machine Combination"                           39
+
+4. Less Expensive Machines                                    43
+
+   Appendixes                                                 55
+
+     I. Notes on the Development and Commercial
+        Use of the Sewing Machine                             57
+
+    II. American Sewing-Machine Companies of the
+        19th Century                                          65
+
+   III. Chronological List of U.S. Sewing-Machine
+        Patent Models in the Smithsonian Collections         125
+
+    IV. 19th-Century Sewing Machine Leaflets in the
+        Smithsonian Collections                              134
+
+     V. A Brief History of Cotton Thread                     135
+
+    VI. Biographical Sketches                                137
+
+   Bibliography                                              144
+
+   Indexes                                                   147
+
+     Geographical Index to Companies Listed in Appendix II   149
+
+     Alphabetical Index to Patentees Listed in Appendix III  151
+
+     General Index to Chapters 1-4                           155
+
+
+
+
+_Preface_
+
+
+It had no instrument panel with push-button controls. It was not
+operated electronically or jet-propelled. But to many 19th-century
+people the sewing machine was probably as awe-inspiring as a space
+capsule is to their 20th-century descendants. It was expensive, but,
+considering the work it could do and the time it could save, the cost
+was more than justified. The sewing machine became the first widely
+advertised consumer appliance, pioneered installment buying and patent
+pooling, and revolutionized the ready-made clothing industry. It also
+weathered the protests of those who feared the new machine was a threat
+to their livelihood.
+
+The practical sewing machine is not the result of one man's genius, but
+rather the culmination of a century of thought, work, trials, failures,
+and partial successes of a long list of inventors. History is too quick
+to credit one or two men for an important invention and to forget the
+work that preceded and prodded each man to contribute his share. It is
+no discredit to Howe to state that he _did not invent the sewing
+machine_. Howe's work with the sewing machine was important, and he did
+patent certain improvements, but his work was one step along the way. It
+is for the reader to decide whether it was the turning point.
+
+Since the sewing machine has been considered by some as one of the most
+important inventions of 19th-century America, of equal importance to
+this story of the invention is the history of the sewing machine's
+development into a practical, popular commodity. Since many new
+companies blossomed overnight to manufacture this very salable item, a
+catalog list of more than one hundred and fifty of these 19th-century
+companies is included in this study. Still, the list is probably
+incomplete. Many of the companies remained in business a very short time
+or kept their activities a secret to avoid payment of royalties to
+patent holders. Evidence of these companies is difficult to find. It is
+hoped that additional information will come to light as a result of
+this initial attempt to list and date known companies. The dating of
+individual machines based on their serial numbers is also a difficult
+task. Individual company records of this type have not survived;
+however, using the commercial machines in the patent collection, for
+which we know one limiting date--the date the machine was deposited at
+the patent office--and using the records that have survived, an
+estimated date based on the serial number can be established for many of
+the better known machines.
+
+
+     _Acknowledgments_
+
+     I am greatly indebted to the late Dr. Frederick Lewton, whose
+     interest in the history of the sewing machine initiated the
+     collecting of information about it for the Smithsonian
+     Institution's Division of Textiles archives and whose out-of-print
+     booklet "A Servant in the House" prompted the writing of this work.
+     I would also like to thank Mr. Bogart Thompson of the Singer
+     Manufacturing Company for his cooperation in arranging for the gift
+     of an excellent collection of 19th-century sewing machines to the
+     Smithsonian and for allowing me to use the Singer historical files.
+     Acknowledgment is also made of the cooperation extended by The
+     Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village for permitting me to study
+     their collection of old sewing machines.
+
+     _Grace Rogers Cooper_
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter One_
+
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1.--AFTER ALMOST A CENTURY OF ATTEMPTS TO INVENT A
+MACHINE THAT WOULD SEW, the practical sewing machine evolved in the
+mid-19th century. This elegant, carpeted salesroom of the 1870s, with
+fashionable ladies and gentlemen scanning the latest model sewing
+machines, reflects the pinnacle reached by the new industry in just a
+few decades. This example, one of many of its type, is the Wheeler and
+Wilson sewing-machine offices and salesroom, No. 44 Fourteenth Street,
+Union Square, New York City. From _The Daily Graphic_, New York City,
+December 29, 1874. (Smithsonian photo 48091-A.)]
+
+
+Early Efforts
+
+To 1800
+
+For thousands of years, the only means of stitching two pieces of fabric
+together had been with a common needle and a length of thread. The
+thread might be of silk, flax, wool, sinew, or other fibrous material.
+The needle, whether of bone, silver, bronze, steel, or some other metal,
+was always the same in design--a thin shaft with a point at one end and
+a hole or eye for receiving the thread at the other end. Simple as it
+was, the common needle (fig. 2) with its thread-carrying eye had been an
+ingenious improvement over the sharp bone, stick, or other object used
+to pierce a hole through which a lacing then had to be passed.[1] In
+addition to utilitarian stitching for such things as the making of
+garments and household furnishings, the needle was also used for
+decorative stitching, commonly called embroidery. And it was for this
+purpose that the needle, the seemingly perfect tool that defied
+improvement, was first altered for ease of stitching and to increase
+production.
+
+One of the forms that the needle took in the process of adaptation was
+that of the fine steel hook. Called an _aguja_ in Spain, the hook was
+used in making a type of lace known as _punto de aguja_. During the 17th
+century after the introduction of chainstitch embroideries from India,
+this hook was used to produce chainstitch designs on a net ground.[2]
+The stitch and the fine hook to make it were especially adaptable to
+this work. By the 18th century the hook had been reduced to needle size
+and inserted into a handle, and was used to chainstitch-embroider woven
+fabrics.[3] In France the hook was called a crochet and was sharpened to
+a point for easy entry into the fabric (fig. 3). For stitching, the
+fabric was held taut on a drum-shaped frame. The hooked needle pierced
+the fabric, caught the thread from below the surface and pulled a loop
+to the top. The needle reentered the fabric a stitch-length from the
+first entry and caught the thread again, pulling a second loop through
+the first to which it became enchained. This method of embroidery
+permitted for the first time the use of a continuous length of thread.
+At this time the chainstitch was used exclusively for decorative
+embroidery, and from the French name for drum--the shape of the frame
+that held the fabric--the worked fabric came to be called tambour
+embroidery. The crochet[4] or small hooked needle soon became known as
+a tambour needle.
+
+In 1755 a new type of needle was invented for producing embroidery
+stitches. This needle had to pass completely through the fabric two
+times (a through-and-through motion) for every stitch. The inventor was
+Charles F. Weisenthal, a German mechanic living in London who was
+granted British patent 701 for a two-pointed needle (fig. 4). The
+invention was described in the patent as follows:
+
+     The muslin, being put into a frame, is to be worked with a needle
+     that has two points, one at the head, and the other point as a
+     common needle, which is to be worked by holding it with the fingers
+     in the middle, so as not to require turning.
+
+It might be argued that Weisenthal had invented the eye-pointed needle,
+since he was the first inventor to put a point at the end of the needle
+having the eye. But, since his specifically stated use required the
+needle to have two points and to be passed completely through the
+fabric, Weisenthal had no intention of utilizing the very important
+advantage that the eye-pointed needle provided, that of _not_ requiring
+the passage of the needle through the fabric as in hand sewing.
+
+While no records can be found to establish that Weisenthal's patent was
+put to any commercial use during the inventor's lifetime, the
+two-pointed needle with eye at midpoint appeared in several 19th-century
+sewing-machine inventions.
+
+The earliest of the known mechanical sewing devices produced a chain or
+tambour stitch, but by an entirely different principle than that used
+with either needle just described. Although the idea was incorporated
+into a patent, the machine was entirely overlooked for almost a century
+as the patent itself was classed under wearing apparel. It was entitled
+"An Entire New Method of Making and Completing Shoes, Boots,
+Splatterdashes, Clogs, and Other Articles, by Means of Tools and
+Machines also Invented by Me for that Purpose, and of Certain
+Compositions of the Nature of Japan or Varnish, which will be very
+advantageous in many useful Applications." This portentously titled
+British patent 1,764 was issued to an English cabinetmaker, Thomas
+Saint, on July 17, 1790. Along with accounts of several processes for
+making various varnish compositions, the patent contains descriptions of
+three separate machines; the second of these was for "stitching,
+quilting, or sewing." Though far from practical, the machine
+incorporated several features common to a modern sewing machine. It had
+a horizontal cloth plate or table, an overhanging arm carrying a
+straight needle, and a continuous supply of thread from a spool. The
+motion was derived from the rotation of a hand crank on a shaft, which
+activated cams that produced all the actions of the machine.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2.--PRIMITIVE NEEDLE. Bronze. Egyptian (Roman
+period, 30 B.C.-A.D. 642). (Smithsonian photo 1379-A.)]
+
+One cam operated the forked needle (fig. 5) that pushed the thread
+through a hole made by a preceding thrust of the awl. The thread was
+caught by a looper and detained so that it then became enchained in the
+next loop of thread. The patent described thread tighteners above and
+below the work and an adjustment to vary the stitches for different
+kinds of material. Other than the British patent records, no
+contemporary reference to Saint's machine has ever been found. The
+stitching-machine contents of this patent was happened on by accident in
+1873.[5] Using the patent description, a Newton Wilson of London
+attempted to build a model of Saint's machine in 1874.[6] Wilson found,
+however, that it was necessary to modify the construction before the
+machine would stitch at all.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3.--TAMBOUR NEEDLE AND FRAME, showing the method
+of forming the chainstitch, from the Diderot Encyclopedia of 1763, vol.
+II, _Plates Brodeur_, plate II. (Smithsonian photo 43995-C.)]
+
+This raised the question whether Saint had built even one machine.
+Nevertheless, the germ of an idea was there, and had the inventor
+followed through the sewing machine might have been classed an
+18th-century rather than a 19th-century contribution.
+
+
+1800-1820
+
+There is no doubt that the successful late-18th-century improvements in
+spinning and weaving methods, resulting in increased production of
+fabrics, had a great effect in spurring inventors to ideas of stitching
+by machinery. Several efforts were made during the first two decades of
+the 19th century to produce such machines.
+
+On February 14, 1804, a French patent was issued to Thomas Stone and
+James Henderson for a "new mechanical principle designed to replace
+handwork in joining the edges of all kinds of flexible material, and
+particularly applicable to the manufacture of clothing."[7] The machine
+used a common needle and made an overcast stitch in the same manner as
+hand sewing. A pair of jaws or pincers, imitating the action of the
+fingers, alternately seized and released the needle on each side of the
+fabric. The pincers were attached to a pair of arms arranged to be moved
+backward and forward by "any suitable mechanism."[8] This machine was
+capable of making curved or angular as well as straight seams, but it
+was limited to carrying a short length of thread, necessitating frequent
+rethreading. The machine may have had some limited use, but it was not
+commercially successful.
+
+On May 30 of the same year John Duncan, a Glasgow manufacturer, was
+granted British patent 2,769 for "a new and improved method of
+tambouring, or raising flowers, figures or other ornaments upon muslins,
+lawns and other cottons, cloths, or stuffs." This machine made the
+chainstitch, using not one but many hooked needles that operated
+simultaneously. The needles, attached to a bar or carrier, were pushed
+through the vertically held fabric from the upper right side, which in
+this case was also the outer side. After passing through it, they were
+supplied with thread from spools by means of peculiarly formed hooks or
+thread carriers. The thread was twisted around the needle above the
+hook, so as to be caught by it, and drawn through to the outer surface.
+The shaft of the needle was grooved on the hook side and fitted with a
+slider. This slider closed upon the retraction of the needle from the
+fabric, holding the thread in place and preventing the hook from
+catching. The fabric was stretched between two rollers set in an upright
+frame capable of sliding vertically in a second frame arranged to have
+longitudinal motion. The combination of these two motions was sufficient
+to produce any required design. The principle developed by Duncan was
+used on embroidery machines, in a modified form, for many years. Of
+several early attempts, his was the first to realize any form of
+success.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4.--WEISENTHAL'S two-pointed needle, 1755.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5.--SAINT'S SEWING MACHINE, 1790. (Smithsonian
+photo 42490-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6.--CHAPMAN'S SEWING MACHINE, first eye-pointed
+needle, 1807. (Smithsonian photo 33299-K.)]
+
+A type of rope-stitching machine, which might be considered unimportant
+to this study, must be included because of its use of the eye-pointed
+needle, the needle that was to play a most important part in the later
+development of a practical sewing machine. The earliest reference to the
+use of a needle with an eye not being required to be passed completely
+through the fabric it was stitching is found in a machine invented by
+Edward Walter Chapman, for which he and William Chapman were granted
+British patent 3,078 on October 30, 1807. The machine (fig. 6) was
+designed to construct belting or flat banding by stitching together
+several strands of rope that had been laid side by side. Two needles
+were required and used alternately. One needle was threaded and then
+forced through the ropes. On the opposite side the thread was removed
+from the eye of the first needle before it was withdrawn. The second
+needle was threaded and the operation repeated. The needles could also
+be used to draw the thread, rather than push it, through the ropes with
+the same result. While being stitched, the ropes were held fast and the
+sewing frame and supporting carriage were moved manually as each stitch
+was made. Such a machine would be applicable only to the work described,
+since the necessity of rethreading at every stitch would make it
+impractical for any other type of sewing.
+
+Another early machine reported to have used the eye-pointed needle to
+form the chainstitch was invented about 1810 by Balthasar Krems,[9] a
+hosiery worker of Mayen, Germany. One knitted article produced there was
+a peaked cap, and Krems' machine was devised to stitch the turned edges
+of the cap,[10] which was suspended from wire pins on a moving wheel.
+The needle of the machine was attached to a horizontal shaft and carried
+the thread through the fabric. The loop of thread was retained by a
+hook-shaped pin to become enchained with the next loop at the reentry of
+the needle. Local history reports that this device may have been used as
+early as 1800, but the inventor did not patent his machine and
+apparently made no attempt to commercialize it. No contemporary
+references to the machine could be found, and use of the machine may
+have died with the inventor in 1813.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7.--MADERSPERGER'S 1814 SEWING MACHINE.
+Illustration from a pamphlet by the inventor entitled _Beschreibung
+einer Naehmaschine_, Vienna, ca. 1816. (Smithsonian photo 49373.)]
+
+About the same time, Josef Madersperger, a tailor in Vienna, Austria,
+invented a sewing machine, which was illustrated (fig. 7) and described
+in a 15-page pamphlet published about 1816.[11] On May 12, 1817, a
+Vienna newspaper wrote of the Madersperger machine: "The approbation
+which his machine received everywhere has induced his Royal Imperial
+Majesty, in the year 1814, to give to the inventor an exclusive
+privilege [patent] which has already been mentioned before in these
+papers."[12] Madersperger's 1814 machine stitched straight or curving
+lines. His second machine stitched small semicircles, as shown in the
+illustration, and also small circles, egg-shaped figures, and angles of
+various degrees. The machine, acclaimed by the art experts, must
+therefore have been intended for embroidery stitching. From the
+contemporary descriptions and the illustration, the machine is judged to
+have made a couched stitch--one thread was laid on the surface of the
+fabric and stitched in place with a short thread carried by a
+two-pointed needle of the type invented by Weisenthal. Two fabrics could
+have been stitched together, but not in the manner required for
+tailoring. The machine must have had many deficiencies in the tension
+adjustment, feed, and related mechanical operations, for despite the
+published wishes for success the inventor did not put the machine into
+practical operation.[13] Years later Madersperger again attempted to
+invent a sewing machine using a different stitch (see p. 13).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 8.--AN ENGRAVING OF THIMONNIER and his sewing
+machine of 1830, from _Sewing Machine News_, 1880. (Smithsonian photo
+10569-C.)]
+
+A story persists that about 1818-1819 a machine that formed a
+backstitch, identical to the one used in hand sewing, was invented in
+Monkton, Vermont. The earliest record of this machine that this author
+has found was in the second or 1867 edition of _Eighty Years of Progress
+of the United States_; the machine is not mentioned in the earlier
+edition. The writer of the article on sewing machines states that John
+Knowles invented and constructed a sewing machine, which used a single
+thread and a two-pointed needle with the eye in the middle to form the
+backstitch. This information must have come to light after the first
+edition was published, but from where and by whom is not known. Other
+sources state that two men, Adams and Dodge, produced this machine in
+Monkton.[14] While still others credit the Reverend John Adam Dodge,
+assisted by a mechanic by the name of John Knowles, with the same
+invention in the same location.[15] Vermont historical societies have
+been unable to identify the men named or to verify the story of the
+invention.[16] The importance of the credibility of this story, if
+proved, rests in the fact that it represents the first effort in the
+United States to produce a mechanical stitching device.
+
+
+1820-1845
+
+American records of this period are incomplete as a result of the Patent
+Office fire of 1836, in which most of the specific descriptions of
+patents issued to that date were destroyed. Patentees were asked to
+provide another description of their patents so that these might be
+copied, but comparatively few responded and only a small percentage was
+restored. Thus, although the printed index of patents[17] lists Henry
+Lye as patenting a machine for "sewing leather, and so forth" on March
+10, 1826, no description of the machine has ever been located. Many
+patents whose original claim was for only a mechanical awl to pierce
+holes in leather or a clamp to hold leather for hand stitching were
+claimed as sewing devices once a practical machine had evolved. But no
+evidence has ever been found that any of these machines performed the
+actual stitching operation.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 9.--AN ADAPTED DRAWING of Hunt's sewing machine
+published by the _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 2, no. 8, 1881, to give
+some idea of its construction and operation. "The frame of the machine
+(A) rested on a base (B) that was supported by a table. The wheel (C)
+worked on a central shaft (E) and was set in motion by hand or foot
+power. On the front of the wheel (C) was a raised cam (D) into which the
+connecting rod (F) engaged to communicate motion to the vibrating arm
+(G) pivoted to the frame at (H) and carrying at the end (g) the curved
+needle (I). The take-up (J) served to tighten the thread after each
+stitch; it was connected to the vibrating arm by a rod (K). The cloth
+(L) was held in a vertical position between the fingers or nippers (M),
+which were attached to the frame. The bar (N) was toothed on one side
+(n) to mesh with the geared wheel (o). The lever (P) was operated by a
+cam (m) upon the periphery of the wheel (C), and carried the vertical
+pawl (S) which meshed with the ratchet (T) and moved the cloth as each
+stitch was made. The shuttle (U) worked in its race (V); it was operated
+by the vibrating lever (W), the upper end of which engaged into a groove
+on the face of the wheel (C)." (Smithsonian photo 42554.)]
+
+The first man known to have put a mechanical sewing device into
+commercial operation was Barthelemy Thimonnier,[18] a French tailor.
+After several years of fruitless effort he invented a machine for which
+he received a French patent in 1830.[19] The machine (fig. 8) made a
+chainstitch by means of a barbed or hooked needle. The vertically held
+needle worked from an overhanging arm. The needle thrust through the
+fabric laid on the horizontal table, caught a thread from the thread
+carrier and looper beneath the table, and brought a loop to the surface
+of the fabric. When the process was repeated the second loop became
+enchained in the first. The needle was moved downward by the depression
+of a cord-connected foot treadle and was raised by the action of a
+spring. The fabric was fed through the stitching mechanism manually, and
+a regular rate of speed had to be maintained by the operator in order to
+produce stitches of equal length. A type of retractable thimble or
+presser foot was used to hold the fabric down as required.
+
+The needle, and the entire machine, was basically an attempt to
+mechanize tambour embroidery, with which the inventor was quite
+familiar. Although this work, which served as the machine's inspiration,
+was always used for decorative embroidery, Thimonnier saw the
+possibilities of using the stitch for utilitarian purposes. By 1841 he
+had 80 machines stitching army clothing in a Paris shop. But a mob of
+tailors, fearing that the invention would rob them of a livelihood,
+broke into the shop and destroyed the machines. Thimonnier fled Paris,
+penniless. Four years later he had obtained new financial help, improved
+his machine to produce 200 stitches a minute, and organized the first
+French sewing-machine company.[20] The Revolution of 1848, however,
+brought this enterprise to an early end. Before new support could be
+found other inventors had appeared with better machines, and
+Thimonnier's was passed by. In addition to the two French patents
+Thimonnier also received a British patent with his associate Jean Marie
+Magnin in 1848 and one in the United States in 1850. He achieved no
+financial gain from either of these and died a poor man.
+
+While Thimonnier was developing his chainstitch machine in France,
+Walter Hunt,[21] perhaps best described as a Yankee mechanical genius,
+was working on a different kind of sewing machine in the United States.
+Sometime between 1832 and 1834 he produced at his shop in New York a
+machine that made a lockstitch.[22] This stitch was the direct result of
+the mechanical method devised to produce the stitching and represented
+the first occasion an inventor had not attempted to reproduce a hand
+stitch. The lockstitch required two threads, one passing through a loop
+in the other and both interlocking in the heart of the seam. At the time
+Hunt did not consider the sewing machine any more promising than several
+other inventions that he had in mind, and, after demonstrating that the
+machine would sew, he sold his interest in it for a small sum and did
+not bother to patent it.
+
+A description--one of few ever published--and sketch of a rebuilt Hunt
+machine (fig. 9) appeared in an article in the _Sewing Machine News_ in
+1881.[23] The important element in the Hunt invention was an eye-pointed
+needle working in combination with a shuttle carrying a second thread.
+Future inventors were thus no longer hampered by the erroneous idea that
+the sewing machine must imitate the human hands and fingers. Though
+Hunt's machine stitched short, straight seams with speed and accuracy,
+it could not sew curved or angular work. Its stitching was not
+continuous, but had to be reset at the end of a short run. The validity
+of Hunt's claim as the inventor of the lockstitch and the prescribed
+method of making it was argued many times, especially during the Elias
+Howe patent suits of the 1850s. The decision against Hunt was not a
+question of invention,[24] but one of right to ownership or control.
+Hunt did little to promote his sewing machine and sold it together with
+the right to patent to George A. Arrowsmith.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 10.--MADERSPERGER'S 1839 sewing machine.
+Madersperger's machine consisted of two major parts: the frame, which
+held the material, and the stitching mechanism, called the hand. The
+hand shown here is an original model. (_Photo courtesy of Technisches
+Museum fuer Industrie und Gewerbe, Vienna._)]
+
+For over fifteen years, from the mid-1830s to the early 1850s, the
+machine dropped out of sight. When the sewing-machine litigation
+developed in the 1850s, the I. M. Singer company searched out the Hunt
+machine, had the inventor rebuild one,[25] and attempted to use this to
+break the Howe patent. The plan did not work. The Honorable Charles
+Mason, Patent Commissioner, reported:
+
+     When the first inventor allows his discovery to slumber for
+     eighteen years, with no probability of its ever being brought into
+     useful activity, and when it is only resurrected to supplant and
+     strangle an invention which has been given to the public, and which
+     has been made practically useful, all reasonable presumption should
+     be in favor of the inventor who has been the means of conferring
+     the real benefit upon the world.[26]
+
+Hunt's machine was an invention of the 1830s, but only because of the
+patent litigation was it ever heard of again.
+
+During the time that a potentially successful sewing machine was being
+invented and forgotten in America, Josef Madersperger of Austria made a
+second attempt to solve the mechanical stitching problem. In 1839 he
+received a second patent on a machine entirely different from his 1814
+effort. It was similar to Hunt's in that it used an eye-pointed needle
+and passed a thread through the loop of the needle-thread--the thread
+carried by the needle--to lock the stitch. Madersperger's machine was a
+multiple-needle quilting machine. The threaded needles penetrated the
+fabric from below and were retracted, leaving the loops on the surface.
+A thread was drawn through the loops to produce what the inventor termed
+a chain. The first two stitches were twisted before insertion into the
+next two, producing a type of twisted lockstitch. The mechanism for
+feeding the cloth was faulty, however, and the inventor himself stated
+in the specifications that much remained to perfect and simplify it
+before its general application. (This machine was illustrated [fig. 10]
+in the _Sewing Machine Times_, October 25, 1907, and mistakenly referred
+to as the 1814 model.) Madersperger realized no financial gain from
+either venture and died in a poorhouse in 1850.
+
+The first efforts of the 1840s reflected the work of the earlier years.
+In England, Edward Newton and Thomas Archbold invented and patented a
+machine on May 4, 1841, for tambouring or ornamenting the backs of
+gloves. Their machine used a hook on the upper surface to catch the loop
+of thread, but an eye-pointed needle from underneath was used to carry
+the thread up through the fabric. The machine was designed to use three
+needles for three rows of chainstitching, if required. Although the
+machine was capable of stitching two fabrics together, it was never
+contemplated as a sewing machine in the present use of the term. Their
+British patent 8,948 stated it was for "improvements in producing
+ornamental or tambour work in the manufacture of gloves."
+
+The earliest American patent specifically recorded as a sewing machine
+was U.S. patent 2,466, issued to John J. Greenough on February 21, 1842.
+His machine was a short-thread model that made both the running stitch
+and the backstitch. It used the two-pointed needle, with eye at
+mid-length, which was passed back and forth through the material by
+means of a pair of pincers on each side of the seam. The pincers opened
+and closed automatically. The material to be sewn was held in clamps
+which moved it forward between the pincers to form a running stitch or
+moved it alternately backward and forward to produce a backstitch. The
+clamps were attached to a rack that automatically fed the material at a
+predetermined rate according to the length of stitch required. Since the
+machine was designed for leather or other hard material, the needle was
+preceded by an awl, which pierced a hole. The machine had a weight to
+draw out the thread and a stop-motion to stop the machinery when a
+thread broke or became too short. The needle was threaded with a short
+length of thread and required frequent refilling. Only straight seams
+could be stitched. The feed was continuous to the length of the rack
+bar; then it had to be reset. The motions were all obtained from the
+revolution of a crank. It is not believed that any machines, other than
+the patent model (fig. 11), were ever made. Little is known of Greenough
+other than his name.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 11.--GREENOUGH'S PATENT MODEL, 1842. (Smithsonian
+photo 45525-G.)]
+
+In the succeeding year, on March 4, 1843, Benjamin W. Bean received the
+second American sewing-machine patent, U.S. patent 2,982. Like
+Greenough's, this machine made a running stitch, but by a different
+method. In Bean's machine the fabric was fed between the teeth of a
+series of gears. Held in a groove in the gears was a peculiarly shaped
+needle bent in two places to permit it to be held in place by the gears
+and with a point at one end and the eye at the opposite end, as in a
+common hand needle. The action of the gears caused the fabric to be
+forced onto and through the threaded needle. Indefinite straight seams
+could be stitched as the fabric was continuously forced off the needle
+by the turning gears (fig. 12). A screw clamp held the machine to a
+table or other work surface. Machines of this and similar types
+reportedly had some limited usage in the dyeing and bleaching mills,[27]
+where lengths of fabric were stitched together before processing.
+Improved versions of Bean's machine were to be patented in subsequent
+years in England and America. The same principle was also used in home
+machines two decades later.
+
+The third sewing-machine patent on record in the United States Patent
+Office is patent 3,389 issued on December 27, 1843, to George H.
+Corliss, better remembered as the inventor and manufacturer of the
+Corliss steam engine. It was his interest in the sewing machine,
+however, that eventually directed his attention to the steam engine.
+
+Corliss had a general store at Greenwich, New York. A customer's
+complaint that the boots he had purchased split at the seams made
+Corliss wonder why someone had not invented a machine to sew stronger
+seams than hand-sewn ones. He considered the problem of sewing leather,
+analyzing the steps required to make the saddler's stitch, one popularly
+used in boots and shoes. He concluded that a sewing machine to do this
+type of work must first perforate the leather, then draw the threads
+through the holes, and finally secure the stitches by pulling the
+threads tight. The machine Corliss invented (fig. 13) was of the same
+general type as Greenough's, except that two two-pointed needles were
+required to make the saddler's stitch. This stitch was composed of two
+running stitches made simultaneously, one from each side.[28] The
+machine used two awls to pierce the holes through which the needles
+passed; finger levers approached from opposite sides, seized the
+needles, pulled the threads firmly, and passed the needles through to
+repeat the operation. The working model that Corliss completed could
+unite two pieces of heavy leather at the rate of 20 stitches per minute.
+
+Corliss, lacking capital, went to Providence, Rhode Island, in 1844 to
+secure backers. After months without success, he was forced to abandon
+the sewing machine and accept employment as a draftsman and designer.
+Though he considered himself a failure, this change of employment placed
+him on the threshold of his more rewarding life work, improvement of the
+steam engine.[29]
+
+On July 22, 1844, James Rodgers was granted U.S. patent 3,672, the
+fourth American sewing-machine patent. The patent model is not known to
+be in existence, but this machine was of minor importance for it offered
+only a negligible change in the Bean running-stitch machine. The same
+corrugated gears were used but were placed in different positions so
+that one bend in the needle was eliminated. When Bean secured a reissue
+of his patent in 1849, he had adapted it to use a straight needle.
+Rodgers' machine is not known to have had any commercial success,
+although this type of machine experienced a brief period of popularity.
+By the early 1900s, however, the running-stitch machine was so little
+known that when one was illustrated in the _Sewing Machine Times_ in
+1907[30] it excited more curiosity than any of the other early types.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 12.--BEAN'S PATENT MODEL, 1843. (Smithsonian photo
+42490-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 13.--CORLISS' PATENT MODEL, 1843. The piece of
+wood in the foreground is an enlarged model of the needle. (Smithsonian
+photo 42490.)]
+
+On December 7, 1844, the same year that Rodgers secured his American
+patent, John Fisher and James Gibbons were granted British patent 10,424
+for "certain improvements in the manufacture of figured or ornamental
+lace, or net, or other fabrics." From this superficial description of
+its work, the device might seem to be just another tambouring machine.
+It was not. Designed specifically for ornamental stitching, the machine
+made a two-thread stitch using an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle.[31]
+Several sets of needles and shuttles worked simultaneously. The needles
+were secured to a needlebar placed beneath the fabric. The shuttles were
+pointed at both ends to pass through each succeeding new loop formed by
+the needles. Each shuttle was activated by two vibrating arms worked by
+cams. Each needle was curved in the form of a bow, and in addition to
+the eye at the point each also had a second eye at the bottom of the
+curve. The shape of the needle together with the position of the eyes
+permitted the pointed shuttle, carrying the second thread, to pass
+freely through the loop in the ascending needle thread. The fabric was
+carried by a pair of cloth rollers, capable of sliding in a horizontal
+plane in both a lateral and a lengthwise direction. These combined
+movements were sufficient to enable the operator to produce almost every
+embroidered design. The ornamenting, which might be a yarn, cord, or
+gimp, was carried by the shuttle thread. There was no tension on the
+shuttle thread, which was held in place by the thread from the needle.
+The stitch produced was a form of couching.[32] It was in no sense a
+lockstitch. Fisher, who was the inventor, readily admitted at a later
+date that he had not had the slightest idea of producing a sewing
+machine, in the utilitarian meaning of the term. Although it has not
+been established that this machine was ever put into practical
+operation, Fisher's invention was to have a far-reaching effect on the
+development of the sewing machine in England.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] CHARLES M. KARCH, _Needles: Historical and Descriptive_ (12 Census
+U.S., vol. X, 1902), pp. 429-432.
+
+[2] FLORENCE LEWIS MAY, _Hispanic Lace and Lace Making_ (New York,
+1939), pp. 267-271.
+
+[3] Diderot's _L'Encyclopedie, ou dictionnaire raisonne des sciences,
+des arts et des metiers ..._, vol. II (1763), Plates Brodeur, plate II.
+
+[4] The term "crochet," as used today, became the modern counterpart of
+the Spanish _punto de aguja_ about the second quarter of the 19th
+century.
+
+[5] _Sewing Machine News_ (1880), vol. 1, no. 7, p. 2.
+
+[6] This model of Saint's machine was bequeathed by Mr. Wilson to the
+South Kensington Museum, London, England.
+
+[7] _Sewing Machine News_ (1880), vol. 1, no. 8, p. 2.
+
+[8] Ibid.
+
+[9] ERICH LUTH, _Ein Mayener Strumpfwirker, Balthasar Krems, 1760-1813,
+Erfinder der Naehmaschine_, p. 10, states that the machine used an
+eye-pointed needle. WILHELM RENTERS, _Praktisches Wissen von der
+Naehmaschine_, p. 4, states that Krems used a hooked needle. Renters
+probably mistook the hooked retaining pin for the needle.
+
+[10] Dr. Dahmen, Burgermeister of Mayen, stated in a letter of October
+8, 1963, that the original Krems machine was turned over to the
+officials of Mayen by Krems' descendants about the turn of the century.
+He verified that the machine used an eye-pointed needle. About 1920 the
+machine was placed in the Eifelmuseum in Genovevaburg; some of the
+unessential parts were restored. The machine now at this museum is the
+one pictured in Luth's book. A replica of the machine is in the
+Deutsches Museum, Munich, Germany.
+
+[11] JOSEF MADERSPERGER, _Beschreibung einer Naehmaschine_ (Vienna, ca.
+1816). The exact date of this small booklet is not known. In the booklet
+Madersperger reports that he had received a patent in 1814 for his
+_first_ machine adapted to straight sewing. However, the machine
+described and illustrated in this booklet was one that could stitch
+semicircles and small figures. In _Kunst und Gewerbeblatt_, a periodical
+(Munich, Germany, 1817, pp. 336-338), reference is made to the
+Madersperger machine and a statement to the effect that the inventor had
+published a leaflet describing his machine. The leaflet referred to is
+believed to be the one under discussion. For this reason it must have
+been published between 1814 and 1817, therefore ca. 1816. The only copy
+of this booklet known to this author is in the New York Public Library.
+It was probably not known to authors Luth and Renters. The author wishes
+to thank Miss Rita J. Adrosko of her staff for her important help in
+translating these German publications.
+
+[12] _Sewing Machine Times_ (1907), vol. 26, no. 865, p. 1.
+
+[13] There are no known models of these early Madersperger machines in
+existence. Although the _Sewing Machine Times_ reported in the 1907
+issue that the 1814 sewing machine was then on exhibition in the Museum
+of the Vienna Polytechnic, the illustration shown was of Madersperger's
+1839 machine. In a letter from the director of the Technisches Museum
+fuer Industrie und Gewerbe in Vienna, received in 1962, it was stated
+that the original 1814 Madersperger machine was in their museum. The
+photographs that were sent, however, were of the 1839 machine. This
+machine is entirely different from the 1814-1817 machine, as can readily
+be seen by the reader (figs. 7 and 10).
+
+[14] JOHN P. STAMBAUGH, _A History of the Sewing Machine_ (Hartford,
+Conn., 1872), p. 13; _Sewing Machine News_ (July 1880), vol. 1, no. 12,
+p. 4.
+
+[15] "Sewing Machines," _Johnson's Universal Cyclopaedia_ (New York,
+1878), vol. 4, p. 205. The 1874 edition does not include this reference
+to Rev. John Adam Dodge.
+
+[16] Letters to the author from the Vermont Historical Society (Nov. 13,
+1953) and the Bennington Historical Museum and Art Gallery (May 2,
+1953).
+
+[17] EDMUND BURKE. Commissioner of Patents, _List of Patents for
+Inventions and Designs Issued by the United States from 1790 to 1847_
+(Washington, 1847).
+
+[18] See Barthelemy Thimonnier's biographical sketch, p. 137.
+
+[19] French patent issued to Barthelemy Thimonnier and M. Ferrand (who
+was a tutor at l'Ecole des Mines, Saint-Etienne, and helped finance the
+patent), July 17, 1830.
+
+[20] The company was located at Villefranche-sur-Saone, but no name is
+recorded. See J. Granger, _Thimonnier et la machine a coudre_ (1943), p.
+16.
+
+[21] See Walter Hunt's biographical sketch, p. 138.
+
+[22] The earliest known reference in print to Walter Hunt's sewing
+machine is in _Sewing by Machinery: An Exposition of the History of
+Patentees of Various Sewing Machines and of the Rights of the Public_
+(I. M. Singer & Co., 1853). A more detailed story of Hunt's invention is
+in _Sewing Machine News_ (1880-81), vol. 2, no. 2, p. 4; no. 4, p. 5;
+and no. 8, pp. 3 and 8.
+
+[23] Vol. 2, no. 8, p. 3.
+
+[24] In the opinion and decision of C. Mason, Commissioner of the Patent
+Office, offered on May 24, 1854, for the Hunt vs. Howe interference
+suit, Mason stated: "He [Hunt] proves that in 1834 or 1835 he contrived
+a machine by which he actually effected his purpose of sewing cloth with
+considerable success."
+
+[25] The rebuilt machine, according to a letter to the author from B. F.
+Thompson of the Singer company, is believed to have been one of the
+machines lost in a Singer factory fire at Elizabethport, N.J., in 1890.
+
+[26] Op. cit. (footnote 24).
+
+[27] EDWARD H. KNIGHT, _Sewing Machines_, vol. 3 of _Knight's American
+Mechanical Dictionary_.
+
+[28] A seam using the saddler's stitch appears as a neat line of
+touching stitches on both sides. Even when made by hand, it is sometimes
+misidentified by the casual observer as the lockstitch because of the
+uniformity of both sides. If the saddler's stitch was formed of threads
+of two different colors, the even stitches on one side of the seam and
+the odd stitches on the reverse side would be of one color, and vice
+versa.
+
+[29] _The Life and Works of George H. Corliss_, privately printed for
+Mary Corliss by the American Historical Society, 1930. The Corliss
+family records were turned over to the Baker Library, Harvard
+University. In a letter addressed to this author by Robert W. Lovett of
+the Manuscripts Division on August 2, 1954, it was reported that there
+was a record on their Corliss card to the effect that a model of his
+sewing machine, received with the collection, was turned over to the
+Massachusetts Institute of Technology; however, Mr. Lovett also stated
+that from a manuscript memoir of Mr. Corliss that it would seem that he
+developed only the one machine--the patent model. In a letter dated
+November 15, 1954, Stanley Backer, assistant professor of mechanical
+engineering, stated that after extensive inquiries they were unable to
+locate the model at M.I.T. In 1964, Dr. Robert Woodbury, of M.I.T.,
+turned over to the Smithsonian Institution the official copies of the
+Corliss drawings and the specifications which had been awarded to the
+inventor by the Patent Office. It is possible that this may have been
+the material noted on the Harvard University card as having been
+transferred to M.I.T.
+
+[30] _Sewing Machine Times_ (July 10, 1907), vol. 26, no. 858, p. 1.
+
+[31] This is the earliest known patent using the combination of an
+eye-pointed needle and a shuttle to form a stitch.
+
+[32] In embroidery, couching is the technique of laying a decorative
+thread on the surface of the fabric and stitching it into place with a
+second less-conspicuous thread.
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter Two_
+
+
+[Illustration: Figure 14.--HOWE'S PREPATENT MODEL of 1845, and the box
+used by the inventor to carry the machine to England in 1847.
+(Smithsonian photo 45506-B.)]
+
+Elements of a Successful Machine
+
+The requirements for producing a successful, practical sewing machine
+were a support for the cloth, a needle to carry the thread through the
+fabric and a combining device to form the stitch, a feeding mechanism to
+permit one stitch to follow another, tension controls to provide an even
+delivery of thread, and the related mechanism to insure the precise
+performance of each operation in its proper sequence. Weisenthal had
+added a point to the eye-end of the needle, Saint supported the fabric
+by placing it in a horizontal position with a needle entering
+vertically, Duncan successfully completed a chainstitch for embroidery
+purposes, Chapman used a needle with an eye at its point and did not
+pass it completely through the fabric, Krems stitched circular caps with
+an eye-pointed needle used with a hook to form a chainstitch, Thimonnier
+used the hooked needle to form a chainstitch on a fabric laid
+horizontally, and Hunt created a new stitch that was more readily
+adapted to sewing by machine than the hand stitches had been, but,
+although each may have had the germ of an idea, a successful machine had
+not evolved. There were to be hundreds of patents issued in an attempt
+to solve these and the numerous minor problems that would ensue. But the
+problems were solved. And, in spite of its Old World inception, the
+successful sewing machine can be credited as an American invention.
+
+Although the invention of the practical sewing machine, like most
+important inventions, was a many-man project, historians generally give
+full credit to Elias Howe, Jr. Though such credit may be overly
+generous, Howe's important role in this history cannot be denied.
+
+Elias Howe, Jr., was born on a farm near Spencer, Massachusetts, but he
+left home at an early age to learn the machinist's trade.[33] After
+serving an apprenticeship in Lowell, he moved to Boston. In the late
+1830s, while employed in the instrument shop of Ari Davis, Howe is
+reported to have overheard a discussion concerning the need for a
+machine that would sew. In 1843, when illness kept him from his job for
+days at a time, he remembered the conversation and the promises of the
+rich reward that reputedly awaited the successful inventor. Determined
+to invent such a machine, he finally managed to produce sufficient
+results to interest George Fisher in buying a one-half interest in his
+proposed invention. By April 1845, Howe's machine (fig. 14) was used to
+sew all the seams of two woolen suits for men's clothing. He continued
+to demonstrate his machine but found that interest was, at best,
+indifferent.
+
+Nevertheless, Howe completed a second machine (fig. 15), which he
+submitted with his application for a patent. The fifth United States
+patent (No. 4,750) for a sewing machine was issued to him on September
+10, 1846. The machine used a grooved and curved eye-pointed needle
+carried by a vibrating arm, with the needle supplied with thread from a
+spool. Loops of thread from the needle were locked by a thread carried
+by a shuttle, which was moved through the loop by means of
+reciprocating drivers. The cloth was suspended in a vertical position,
+impaled on pins projecting from a baster plate, which moved
+intermittently under the needle by means of a toothed wheel. The length
+of each stitching operation depended upon the length of the baster
+plate, and the seams were necessarily straight. When the end of the
+baster plate reached the position of the needle, the machine was
+stopped. The cloth was removed from the baster plate, which was moved
+back to its original position. The cloth was moved forward on the pins,
+and the seam continued.
+
+In his patent specifications, Howe claimed the following:
+
+     1. The forming of the seam by carrying a thread through the cloth
+     by means of a curved needle on the end of a vibrating arm, and the
+     passing of a shuttle furnished with its bobbin, in the manner set
+     forth, between the needle and the thread which it carried, under
+     combination and arrangement of parts substantially the same with
+     that described.
+
+     2. The lifting of the thread that passes through the needle-eye by
+     means of the lifting-rod, for the purpose of forming a loop of
+     loose thread that is to be subsequently drawn in by the passage of
+     the shuttle, as herein fully described, said lifting-rod being
+     furnished with a lifting pin, and governed in its motion by the
+     guide-pieces and other devices, arranged and operating
+     substantially as described.
+
+     3. The holding of the thread that is given out by the shuttle, so
+     as to prevent its unwinding from the shuttle-bobbin after the
+     shuttle has passed through the loop, said thread being held by
+     means of the lever or slipping-piece, as herein made known, or in
+     any other manner that is substantially the same in its operation
+     and result.
+
+     4. The manner of arranging and combining the small lever with the
+     sliding box, in combination with the spring-piece, for the purpose
+     of tightening the stitch as the needle is retracted.
+
+     5. The holding of the cloth to be sewed by the use of a
+     baster-plate furnished with points for that purpose, and with holes
+     enabling it to operate as a rack in the manner set forth, thereby
+     carrying the cloth forward and dispensing altogether with the
+     necessity of basting the parts together.
+
+The five claims, which were allowed Howe in his patent, have been quoted
+to show that he did not claim the invention of the eye-pointed needle,
+for which he has so often been credited. The court judgment[34] that
+upheld Howe's claim to his patented right to control the use of the
+eye-pointed needle in combination with a shuttle to form a lockstitch
+was mistakenly interpreted by some as verifying control of the
+eye-pointed needle itself.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 15.--HOWE'S PATENT MODEL, 1846. (Smithsonian photo
+45525-B.)]
+
+After patenting his invention, Howe spent three discouraging years in
+both the United States and in England trying to interest manufacturers
+in building his sewing machine, under license. Finally, for L250
+sterling, he sold the British patent rights to William Thomas and
+further agreed to adapt the machine to Thomas' manufacture of umbrellas
+and corsets.[35] This did not prove to be a financial success for Howe
+and by 1849 he was back in the United States, once again without funds.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 16.--AN ENLARGEMENT of the stitching area.
+(Smithsonian photo 45525-B.)]
+
+On his return, Howe was surprised to find that other inventors were
+engaged in the sewing-machine problem and that sewing machines were
+being manufactured for sale. The sixth United States sewing-machine
+patent (No. 5,942) had been issued to John A. Bradshaw on November 28,
+1848, for a machine specifically stated as correcting the defects in the
+E. Howe patent. Bradshaw did not purport that his machine was a new
+invention. His specifications read:
+
+     The curved needle used in Howe's machine will not by itself form
+     the loop in the thread, which is necessary for the flying bobbin,
+     with its case, to pass through, and has, therefore, to be aided in
+     that operation by a lifting-pin, with the necessary mechanism to
+     operate it. This is a very bungling device, and is a great
+     incumbrance to the action of the machine, being an impediment in
+     the way of introducing the cloth to be sewed, difficult to keep
+     properly adjusted, and very frequently gets entangled between the
+     thread and the needle, by which the latter is frequently broken.
+     This accident happens very often, not withstanding all the
+     precaution which it is possible for the most careful operator to
+     exercise; and inasmuch as the delay occasioned thereby is very
+     considerable, and the needles costly and difficult to replace, it
+     is therefore very important that their breaking in this manner be
+     prevented, which in my machine is done in the most effectual manner
+     by dispensing with the lifting-pin altogether, the loop for the
+     flying bobbin to pass through being made with certainty and of the
+     proper form by means of my angular needle moved in a particular
+     manner just before the flying-bobbin case is thrown. The shuttle
+     and its bobbin for giving off the thread in Howe's machine are very
+     defective ... my neat and simple bobbin-case ... gives off its
+     thread with certainty and uniformity.... The baster-plate in the
+     Howe machine is very inconvenient and troublesome ... in my machine
+     ... the clamp ... is a very simple and efficient device.... The
+     Howe machine is stationary, and the baster-plate or cloth-holder
+     progressive. The Bradshaw machine is progressive and the
+     cloth-holder stationary.
+
+Bradshaw's patent accurately described some of the defects of the Howe
+machine, but other inventors were later to offer better solutions to the
+problems.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 17.--MOREY AND JOHNSON sewing machine, 1849.
+Below: The machine is marked with the name of its maker, Safford &
+Williams. The number 49 is a serial number. Missing parts have been
+replaced with plastic. (Smithsonian photo 48400; brass plate: 48400-H.)]
+
+Although the Bradshaw machine was not in current manufacture, a machine
+based on it received the seventh United States sewing-machine patent.
+Patent 6,099 was issued to Charles Morey and Joseph B. Johnson on
+February 6, 1849. Their machine (fig. 17) was being offered for sale
+even before the patent was issued.
+
+This was the first American patent for a chainstitch machine. The stitch
+was made by an eye-pointed needle carrying the thread through the
+fabric; the thread was detained by a hook until the loop was enchained
+by the succeeding one. The fabric was held vertically by a baster plate
+in a manner similar to the Howe machine. Although not claimed in the
+patent description, the Morey and Johnson machine also had a bar device
+for stripping the cloth from the needle. This bar had a slight motion
+causing a yielding pressure to be exerted on the cloth. Although the
+patent was not granted until February 6, 1849, the application had been
+filed in April of the previous year. The machine was featured in the
+_Scientific American_ on January 27, 1849 (fig. 18):
+
+     Morey and Johnson Machine--These machines are very accurately
+     adjusted in all their parts to work in harmony, without this they
+     would be of no use. But they are now used in most of the Print
+     Works and Bleach Works in New England, and especially by the East
+     Boston Flour Company. It sews about one yard per minute, and we
+     consider it superior to the London Sewing Machine the specification
+     of which is in our possession. It [Morey and Johnson] is more
+     simple--and this is a great deal.... The price of a machine and
+     right to use $135.[36]
+
+An improvement in the Morey and Johnson machine was patented by Jotham
+S. Conant for which he was issued a patent on May 8, 1849. Conant's
+machine offered a slight modification of the cloth bar and of the method
+of keeping the cloth taut during the stitching operation. No successful
+use of it is known.
+
+A second improvement of the Morey and Johnson patent was also issued on
+May 8, 1849; this United States patent (No. 6,439) was to John Bachelder
+for the first continuous, but intermittent, sewing mechanism. As shown
+in the patent model (fig. 19), his clothholder consisted of an endless
+belt supported by and running around three or any other suitable number
+of cylindrical rollers. A series of pointed wires projected from the
+surface of the belt near the edge immediately adjacent to the needle.
+The wires could be placed at regular or irregular distances as required.
+The shaft of one of the cylindrical rollers, which supported the
+endless clothholder, carried a ratchet wheel advanced by the action of a
+pawl connected to the end of the crankshaft by a small crankpin, whose
+position or distance from the axis of rotation of the shaft could be
+adjusted.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 18.--A MOREY AND JOHNSON sewing machine as
+illustrated in _Scientific American_, January 27, 1849. (Smithsonian
+photo 45771.)]
+
+By this adjustment the extent of the vertical travel of the impelling
+pawl was regulated to control the length of the stitch. A spring catch
+kept the ratchet wheel in place at the end of each forward rotation of
+the wheel by the pawl. A roller placed over the endless belt at its
+middle roller pressed the cloth onto the wire points. A curved piece of
+metal was bent over and down upon the top of the belt so that the cloth,
+as it was sewed, was carried toward and against the piece by the belt.
+The cloth rose upon and over the piece and was separated from the
+points. When the machine was in motion the cloth was carried forward,
+passed under the needle, was stitched, and finally, passed the separator
+and off the belt. A vertically reciprocating, straight, eye-pointed
+needle, a horizontal supporting surface, and a yielding cloth presser
+were all used, but none were claimed as part of the patent. These were
+later specifically claimed in reissues of this patent. Bachelder's one
+specific claim, the endless feed belt, was not limited to belt feeding
+only. As he explained in the patent, a revolving table or a cylinder
+might be substituted.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 19.--BACHELDER'S PATENT MODEL, 1849. (Smithsonian
+photo 45572).]
+
+Bachelder did not manufacture machines, but his patent was sold in the
+mid-1850s to I. M. Singer.[37] It eventually became one of the most
+important patents to be contributed to the "Sewing-Machine Combination,"
+a patent pool, which is discussed in more detail on pages 41 and 42.
+
+While new ideas and inventors continued to provide the answers to some
+of the sewing-machine problems, Elias Howe began a series of patent
+suits to sustain the rights that he felt were his. Since his interest
+had never been in constructing machines for sale, it was absolutely
+essential for Howe to protect his royalty rights in order to realize any
+return from his patent. He was reported[38] to have supervised the
+construction of 14 sewing machines at a shop[39] on Gold Street in New
+York toward the close of 1850. Sworn contemporary testimony indicates
+that the machines were of no practical use.[40] Elias stated, in his
+application for his patent extension,[41] that he made only one machine
+in 1850-51. In 1852 he advertised[42] territorial rights and machines,
+but apparently did not realize any financial success until he sold a
+half interest in his patent to George Bliss in November 1852.[43] Bliss
+later began manufacturing machines that he initially sold as "Howe's
+Patent"; however, these machines were substantially different from the
+basic Howe machine.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 20.--BLODGETT & LEROW SEWING MACHINE, 1850, as
+manufactured by A. Bartholf, New York; the serial number of the machine
+is 19. At right, an original brass plate from the same type of machine
+with needle arm and presser foot and arm, serial number 119; the plate,
+however, does not fit the machine correctly. (Smithsonian photo 48440-D;
+brass plate: 48440-K.)]
+
+On May 18, 1853, Elias Howe granted his first royalty license to
+Wheeler, Wilson & Company. Within a few months licenses were also
+granted to Grover & Baker; A. Bartholf; Nichols & Bliss; J. A. Lerow;
+Woolridge, Keene, and Moore; and A. B. Howe, the brother of Elias. These
+licenses granted the manufacturer the right to use any part of the Howe
+patent,[44] but it did not mean that the machines were Elias Howe
+machines. When a royalty license was paid, the patent date and sometimes
+the name was stamped onto the machine. For this reason, these machines
+are sometimes mistakenly thought to be Elias Howe machines. They are
+not.
+
+Howe was also prevented from manufacturing a practical machine unless he
+paid a royalty to other inventors. Three of the major manufacturers and
+Howe resolved their differences by forming the "Sewing Machine
+Combination." Although Howe did not enter the manufacturing competition
+for many years, he profited substantially from the royalty terms of the
+combination. In 1860, he applied for and received a seven-year extension
+on his patent.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 21.--BLODGETT & LEROW SEWING MACHINE, 1850,
+stamped with the legend "Goddard, Rice & Co., Makers, Worcester, Mass."
+and the serial number 37. Below: An original brass plate marked "No.
+38"; this plate fits the machine perfectly. (Smithsonian photo 48440-E;
+brass plate: 48440-J.)]
+
+There were Howe family machines for sale during this period, but these
+were the ones that Amasa Howe had been manufacturing since 1853. The
+machine was an excellent one and received the highest medal for sewing
+machines, together with many flattering testimonials, at the London
+International Exhibition in 1862. After the publication of this award
+the demand for (Amasa) Howe sewing machines was greatly increased at
+home and abroad. Elias took this opportunity to gain entry into the
+manufacturing business by persuading Amasa to let him build a factory at
+Bridgeport, Connecticut, and manufacture the (Amasa) Howe machines. Two
+years passed before the factory was completed, and Amasa's agents were
+discouraged. The loss could have been regained, but the machines
+produced at Bridgeport were not of the quality of the earlier machines.
+Amasa attempted to rebuild the Bridgeport machines, but finally
+abandoned them and resumed manufacturing machines in New York under his
+own immediate supervision.[45] Elias formed his own company and
+continued to manufacture sewing machines. In 1867 he requested a second
+extension of his patent, but the request was refused. Elias Howe died in
+October of the same year.
+
+Meanwhile, another important sewing machine of a different principle had
+also been patented in 1849. This was the machine of Sherburne C.
+Blodgett, a tailor by trade, who was supported financially by John A.
+Lerow. United States patent 6,766 was issued to both men on October 2,
+1849. In the patent, the machine was termed as "our new 'Rotary Sewing
+Machine'." The shuttle movement was continuous, revolving in a circle,
+rather than reciprocating as in the earlier machines. Automatic tension
+was initiated, restraining the slack thread from interference with the
+point of the needle.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 22.--WILSON'S PREPATENT MODEL for his
+reciprocating-shuttle machine, 1850. (Smithsonian photo 45525-A.)]
+
+The Blodgett and Lerow machine was built by several shops. One of the
+earliest was the shop of Orson C. Phelps on Harvard Place in Boston.
+Phelps took the Blodgett and Lerow machine to the sixth exhibition of
+the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association in September 1850 and
+won a silver medal and this praise, "This machine performed admirably;
+it is an exceedingly ingenious and compact machine, able to perform
+tailor's sewing beautifully and thoroughly."[46] Although Phelps had won
+the earliest known premium for a sewing machine, and although the
+machine was produced commercially to a considerable extent (figs. 20 and
+21), one outstanding flaw in its operation could not be overlooked. As
+the shuttle passed around the six-inch circular shuttle race, it put a
+twist in the thread (or took one out if the direction was reversed) at
+each revolution. This caused a constant breaking of the thread, a
+condition that could not be rectified without changing the principle of
+operation. Such required changes were later to lead I. M. Singer,
+another well-known name, into the work of improving this machine.
+
+Also exhibited at the same 1850 mechanics fair was the machine of Allen
+B. Wilson. Wilson's machine received only a bronze medal, but his
+inventive genius was to have a far greater effect on the development of
+the practical sewing machine than the work of Blodgett and Lerow. A. B.
+Wilson[47] was one of the ablest of the early inventors in the field of
+mechanical stitching, and probably the most original.
+
+Wilson, a native of Willett, New York, was a young cabinetmaker at
+Adrian, Michigan, in 1847 when he first conceived of a machine that
+would sew. He was apparently unaware of parallel efforts by inventors in
+distant New England. After an illness, he moved to Pittsfield,
+Massachusetts, and pursued his idea in earnest. By November 1848 he had
+produced the basic drawings for a machine that would make a lockstitch.
+The needle, piercing the cloth, left a loop of thread below the seam. A
+shuttle carrying a second thread passed through the loop, and as the
+tension was adjusted a completed lockstitch was formed (fig. 22).
+Wilson's shuttle was pointed on both ends to form a stitch on both its
+forward and backward motion, a decided improvement over the shuttles of
+Hunt and Howe, which formed stitches in only one direction. After each
+stitch the cloth was advanced for the next stitch by a sliding bar
+against which the cloth was held by a stationary presser. While the
+needle was still in the cloth and holding it, the sliding bar returned
+for a fresh grip on the cloth.
+
+Wilson made a second machine, on the same principle, and applied for a
+patent. He was approached by the owners of the Bradshaw 1848 patent,
+who claimed control of the double-pointed shuttle. Although this claim
+was without justification, as can be seen by examining the Bradshaw
+patent specifications, Wilson did not have sufficient funds to fight the
+claim. In order to avoid a suit, he relinquished to A. P. Kline and
+Edward Lee, a one-half interest in his U.S. patent 7,776 which was
+issued on November 12, 1850 (fig. 23).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 23.--WILSON'S PATENT MODEL, 1850. (Smithsonian
+photo 45504-H.)]
+
+Inventor Wilson had been associated with Kline and Lee (E. Lee & Co.)
+for only a few months, when, on November 25, 1850, he agreed to sell his
+remaining interest to his partners for $2,000. He retained only limited
+rights for New Jersey and for Massachusetts. The sale was fruitless for
+the inventor, as no payment was ever made. How much money E. E. Lee &
+Co. realized from the Wilson machine is difficult to determine, but they
+ran numerous ads in the 1851 and 1852 issues of _Scientific American_. A
+typical one reads:
+
+     A. B. Wilson's Sewing Machine, justly allowed to be the cheapest
+     and best now in use, patented November 12, 1850; can be seen on
+     exhibition at 195 and 197 Broadway (formerly the Franklin House,
+     Room 23, third floor) or to E. E. Lee & Co., Earle's Hotel. Rights
+     for territory or machines can be had by applying to George R.
+     Chittenden, Agent.[48]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 24.--WILSON'S PREPATENT MODEL for his rotary hook,
+1851. (Smithsonian photo 45506-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 25.--WILSON'S ROTARY-HOOK PATENT MODEL, 1851.
+(Smithsonian photo 45505-B.)]
+
+Another reads:
+
+     A. B. Wilson's Sewing Machine ... the best and only practical
+     sewing machine--not larger than a lady's work box--for the trifling
+     sum of $35.[49]
+
+Wilson severed relations with Lee and Kline in early 1851 shortly after
+meeting Nathaniel Wheeler, who was to become his partner in a happier,
+more profitable enterprise involving the sewing machine.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 26.--WILSON'S stationary-bobbin patent model,
+1852; a commercial machine was used since Wheeler, Wilson, Co. had begun
+manufacturing machines the previous year. (Smithsonian photo 45504-B.)]
+
+Wilson, with his two partners, was occupying a room in the old Sun
+Building at 128 Fulton Street, when Wheeler, on a business trip to New
+York City, learned of the Wilson sewing machine. Wheeler examined the
+machine, saw its possibilities, and at once contracted with E. Lee & Co.
+to make 500 of them. At the same time he engaged Wilson to go with him
+to Watertown, Connecticut, to perfect the machine and supervise its
+manufacture. Meanwhile, Wilson had been working on a substitute for the
+shuttle. He showed his model of the device, which became known as the
+rotary hook, to Wheeler who was so convinced of its superiority that he
+decided to develop this new machine and leave Wilson's first machine to
+the others, who, by degrees, had become its owners.
+
+Wilson now applied all his effort to improving the rotary hook, for
+which he received his second patent on August 12, 1851 (figs. 24 and
+25). Wheeler, his two partners Warren and Woodruff, and Wilson now
+formed a new copartnership--Wheeler, Wilson, and Company. They began the
+manufacture of the machines under the patent, which combined the rotary
+hook and a reciprocating bobbin. The rotary hook extended or opened more
+widely the loop of the needle thread, while a reciprocating bobbin
+carried its thread through the extended loop. To avoid litigation which
+the reciprocating bobbin might have caused, Wilson contrived his third
+outstanding invention--the stationary bobbin. This was a feature of the
+first machine produced by the new company in 1851, though the patent
+for the stationary bobbin was not issued until June 15, 1852 (fig. 26).
+
+In all reciprocating-shuttle machines a certain loss of power is
+incurred in driving forward, stopping, and bringing back the shuttle at
+each stitch; also, the machines are rather noisy, owing to the striking
+of the driver against the shuttle at each stroke. These objections were
+removed by Wilson's rotary hook and stationary bobbin. The locking of
+the needle thread with the bobbin thread was accomplished, not by
+driving a shuttle through the loop of the needle thread, but by passing
+that loop under the bobbin. The driving shaft carried the circular
+rotary hook, one of the sewing machine's most beautiful contrivances.
+The success of the machine is indicated in an article that appeared in
+the June 1853 issue of _Scientific American_:
+
+     There are 300 of these machines now in operation in various parts
+     of the country, and the work which they can perform cannot be
+     surpassed.... The time must soon come when every private family
+     that has much sewing to do, will have one of these neat and perfect
+     machines; indeed many private families have them now.... The price
+     of one all complete is $125; every machine is made under the eye of
+     the inventor at the company's machine shop, Watertown, Connecticut,
+     so that every one is warranted ... agreement between Mr. Howe and
+     Messrs. Wheeler, Wilson & Co., so every customer will be perfectly
+     protected....[50]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 27.--WILSON'S four-motion-feed patent model, 1854,
+is not known to be in existence; this is a commercial machine of the
+period. The plate is stamped "A. B. Wilson, Patented Aug. 12, 1851,
+Watertown, Conn., No. 1...." (Smithsonian photo 45504.)]
+
+This agreement was important to sales, as Elias Howe was known to have
+sued purchasers of machines, as well as rival inventors and companies.
+
+The business was on a substantial basis by October 1853, and a stock
+company was formed under the name of Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing
+Company.[51] A little more than a year later, on December 19, 1854,
+Wilson's fourth important patent (U.S. patent 12,116)--for the
+four-motion cloth feed--was issued to him (fig. 27). In this
+development, the flat-toothed surface in contact with the cloth moved
+forward carrying the cloth with it; then it dropped a little, so as not
+to touch the cloth; next it moved backward; then in the fourth motion it
+pushed up against the cloth and was ready to repeat the forward
+movements. This simple and effective feed method is still used today,
+with only minor modifications, in almost every sewing machine. This feed
+with the rotary hook and the stationary circular-disk bobbin, completed
+the essential features of Wilson's machine. It was original and
+fundamentally different from all other machines of that time.
+
+The resulting Wheeler and Wilson machine made a lockstitch by means of a
+curved eye-pointed needle carried by a vibrating arm projecting from a
+rock shaft connected by link and eccentric strap with an eccentric on
+the rotating hook shaft. This shaft had at its outer end the rotary
+hook, provided with a point adapted to enter the loop of needle thread.
+As the hook rotated, it passed into and drew down the loop of
+needle-thread, which was held by means of a loop check, while the point
+of the hook entered a new loop. When the first loop was cast off--the
+face of the hook being beveled for that purpose--it was drawn upward by
+the action of the hook upon the loop through which it was then passing.
+During the rotation of the hook each loop was passed around a disk
+bobbin provided with the second thread and serving the part of the
+shuttle in other machines. The four-motion feed was actuated in this
+machine by means of a spring bar and a cam in conjunction with the
+mandrel.
+
+From the beginning, Wheeler and Wilson had looked beyond the use of the
+sewing machine solely by manufacturers and had seen the demand for a
+light-running, lightweight machine for sewing in the home. Wilson's
+inventions lent themselves to this design, and Wheeler and Wilson led
+the way to the introduction of the machine as a home appliance. Other
+manufacturers followed.
+
+When the stock company was formed, Mr. Wilson retired from active
+participation in the business at his own request. His health had not
+been good, and a nervous condition made it advisable for him to be freed
+from the responsibility of daily routine. During this period Wilson's
+inventive contributions to the sewing machine continued as noted, and in
+addition he worked on inventions concerning cotton picking and
+illuminating gases.
+
+Wheeler and Wilson's foremost competitor in the early years of
+sewing-machine manufacture was the Singer Company, which overtook them
+by 1870 and finally absorbed the entire Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing
+Company in 1905.
+
+The founder of this most successful 19th-century company was Isaac
+Singer, a native of Pittstown, New York.[52] Successively a mechanic, an
+actor, and an inventor, Singer came to Boston in 1850 to promote his
+invention of a machine for carving printers' wooden type. He exhibited
+the carving machine in Orson Phelps' shop, where the Blodgett and Lerow
+machines were being manufactured.
+
+Because the carving machine evoked but little interest, Singer turned
+his attention to the sewing machine as a device offering considerable
+opportunity for both improvement and financial reward. Phelps liked
+Singer's ideas and joined with George Zieber, the publisher who had been
+backing the carving-machine venture, to support Singer in the work of
+improving the sewing machine. His improvements in the Blodgett and Lerow
+machine included a table to hold the cloth horizontally rather than
+vertically (this had been used by Bachelder and Wilson also), a yielding
+vertical presser foot to hold the cloth down as the needle was drawn up,
+and a vertically reciprocating straight needle driven by a rotary,
+overhanging shaft.
+
+The story of the invention and first trial of the machine was told by
+Singer in the course of a patent suit sometime later:
+
+     I explained to them how the work was to be fed over the table and
+     under the presser-foot, by a wheel, having short pins on its
+     periphery, projecting through a slot in the table, so that the work
+     would be automatically caught, fed and freed from the pins, in
+     place of attaching and detaching the work to and from the baster
+     plate by hand, as was necessary in the Blodgett machine.
+
+     Phelps and Zieber were satisfied that it would work. I had no
+     money. Zieber offered forty dollars to build a model machine.
+     Phelps offered his best endeavors to carry out my plan and make the
+     model in his shop; if successful we were to share equally. I worked
+     at it day and night, sleeping but three or four hours a day out of
+     the twenty-four, and eating generally but once a day, as I knew I
+     must make it for the forty dollars or not get it at all.
+
+     The machine was completed in eleven days. About nine o'clock in the
+     evening we got the parts together and tried it; it did not sew; the
+     workmen exhausted with almost unremitting work, pronounced it a
+     failure and left me one by one.
+
+     Zieber held the lamp, and I continued to try the machine, but
+     anxiety and incessant work had made me nervous and I could not get
+     tight stitches. Sick at heart, about midnight, we started for our
+     hotel. On the way we sat down on a pile of boards, and Zieber
+     mentioned that the loose loops of thread were on the upper side of
+     the cloth. It flashed upon me that we had forgot to adjust the
+     tension on the needle thread. We went back, adjusted the tension,
+     tried the machine, sewed five stitches perfectly and the thread
+     snapped, but that was enough. At three o'clock the next day the
+     machine was finished. I took it to New York and employed Mr.
+     Charles M. Keller to patent it. It was used as a model in the
+     application for the patent.[53]
+
+The first machine was completed about the last of September 1850. The
+partners considered naming the machine the "Jenny Lind," after the
+Swedish soprano who was then the toast of America. It was reported[54]
+to have been advertised under that name when the machine was first
+placed on the market, but the name was soon changed to "Singer's
+Perpendicular Action Sewing Machine" or simply the "Singer Sewing
+Machine"--a name correctly anticipated to achieve a popularity of its
+own.
+
+According to the contract made by the partners, the hurriedly built
+first machine was to be sent to the Patent Office with an application in
+the name of Singer and Phelps. An application was made between the end
+of September 1850 and March 14, 1851, as Singer refers to it briefly in
+the application formally filed on April 16, 1851, stating, "My present
+invention is of improvements on a machine heretofore invented by me and
+for which an application is now pending."[55]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 28.--SINGER'S PATENT MODEL, 1851; a commercial
+machine was used, bearing the serial number 22. (Smithsonian photo
+45572-D.)]
+
+In late December 1850 Singer had bought Phelps' interest in the company.
+Whether the first application was later abandoned by Singer or whether
+it was rejected is not known,[56] but a patent on the first application
+was never issued. The final disposition of this first machine has
+remained a mystery.[57]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 29.--SINGER'S PERPENDICULAR ACTION sewing machine,
+an engraving from _Illustrated News_, June 25, 1853, which states: "The
+sewing machine has, within the last two years acquired a wide celebrity,
+and established its character as one of the most efficient labor saving
+instruments ever introduced to public notice.... We must not forget to
+call attention to the fact that this instrument is peculiarly calculated
+for female operatives. They should never allow its use to be monopolized
+by men." (Smithsonian photo 48091-D.)]
+
+A few machines were manufactured in late 1850 and early 1851, and these
+attracted considerable attention; orders began to be received in advance
+of production. The pending patent application did not delay the
+manufacture, and a number of machines were sold before August 12, 1851,
+when the patent was granted. The patent model is shown in figure 28.[58]
+It made a lockstitch by means of a straight eye-pointed needle and a
+reciprocating shuttle. The patent claims, as quoted from the
+specifications, were as follows:
+
+     1. Giving to the shuttle an additional forward motion after it has
+     been stopped to close the loop, as described, for the purpose of
+     drawing the stitch tight, when such additional motion is given at
+     and in combination with the feed motion of the cloth in the reverse
+     direction, and the final upward motion of the needle, as described,
+     so that the two threads shall be drawn tight at the same time, as
+     described.
+
+     2. Controlling the thread during the downward motion of the needle
+     by the combination of a friction-pad to prevent the slack above the
+     cloth, with the eye on the needle-carrier for drawing back the
+     thread, for the purposes and in the manner substantially as
+     described.
+
+     3. Placing the bobbin from which the needle is supplied with thread
+     on an adjustable arm attached to the frame, substantially as
+     described, when this is combined with the carrying of the said
+     thread through an eye or guide attached to and moving with the
+     needle-carrier, as described, whereby any desired length of thread
+     can be given for the formation of the loop without varying the
+     range of motion of the needle, as described.
+
+The feeding described in the Singer patent was "by the friction surface
+of a wheel, whose periphery is formed with very fine grooves, the edges
+of which are slightly serrated, against which the cloth is pressed by a
+spring plate or pad." Although claimed by the inventor in the
+handwritten specifications, it was not allowed as original.
+
+The machines manufactured by the Singer company (fig. 29) were
+duplicates of the patent model. These machines were quite heavy and
+intended for manufacturing rather than for family use in the home.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 30.--I. M. SINGER & CO. NEW YORK SHOWROOM of the
+mid-1850s, as illustrated in _Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper_,
+August 29, 1857; only manufacturing machines are shown in this
+illustration. (Smithsonian photo 48091-B.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 31.--HUNT AND WEBSTER'S SEWING-MACHINE MANUFACTORY
+exhibition and salesroom in Boston, as illustrated in _Ballou's
+Pictorial_, July 5, 1856; only manufacturing machines are shown.
+(Smithsonian photo 45771-A.)]
+
+Singer enjoyed demonstrating the machine and showed it to church and
+social groups and even at circuses; this personal association then
+encouraged him to improve its reliability and convenience. He developed
+a wooden packing case which doubled as a stand for the machine and a
+treadle to allow it to be operated by foot. Because of the dimensions of
+the packing case, Singer put the pivot of the treadle toward its center,
+about where the instep of the foot would rest. This produced the
+heel-and-toe action treadle, a familiar part of the sewing machine until
+its replacement by the electric motor. Both hands were freed to guide
+and arrange the cloth that was being stitched. Singer also added a
+flywheel to smooth out the treadle action and later an iron stand with a
+treadle wide enough for both feet. The treadle had been in use for two
+years before a rival pointed out that it might have been patented. To
+Singer's chagrin it was then too late for patent laws did not permit
+patenting a device that had been in public use.
+
+A new obstacle appeared in the Singer company's path when Howe demanded
+$25,000 for infringement of his patent. Singer and Zieber decided to
+fight, enlisting the legal aid of Edward Clark, a lawyer and financier.
+Howe's action was opposed on the basis of Hunt's machine of 1834, which
+they stated had anticipated Howe's invention.
+
+While they were resisting, Howe sued three firms that were using and
+selling Singer machines. The court order required the selling firms and
+the purchasers to provide an account of the profits accrued from the
+sale and the use of the sewing machines and restrained the firms from
+selling the machines during the pendency of the suit.[59] As a result of
+this action, a number of Singer's rivals purchased licenses from Howe
+and advertised that anyone could sell their machines without fear of a
+suit. This gave them a great competitive advantage, and Singer and
+Clark[60] decided it was best to seek a settlement with Howe. On July 1,
+1854, they paid him $15,000 and took out a license.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 32.--SINGER'S NEW FAMILY SEWING MACHINE,
+illustration from a brochure dating about 1858 or 1859 which states: "A
+few months since, we came to the conclusion that the public taste
+demanded a sewing machine for family purposes more exclusively; a
+machine of smaller size, and of a lighter and more elegant form; a
+machine decorated in the best style of art, so as to make a beautiful
+ornament in the parlor or boudoir; a machine very easily operated, and
+rapid in working.... To supply this public want, we have just produced,
+and are now prepared to receive orders for, 'Singer's new Family Sewing
+Machine.'" (Smithsonian photo 48091-H.)]
+
+In spite of this defeat, the Singer company could claim several
+important improvements to the sewing machine and the acquisition of the
+patents rights to the Morey and Johnson machine of 1849, which gave them
+control of the spring or curved arm to hold the cloth by a yielding
+pressure. Although this point had not been claimed in the 1849 patent,
+the established principle of patent law allowed that a novel device
+introduced and used in a patented machine could be covered by a reissue
+at any time during the life of the patent. Upon becoming owners of the
+Morey and Johnson patent, Singer applied for a reissue which covered
+this type of yielding pressure. It was granted on June 27, 1854. The
+Singer company's acquisition of the Bachelder patent had given them
+control of the yielding pressure bar also.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 33.--SINGER FAMILY MACHINE, 1858, head only.
+(Smithsonian photo 45524-F.)]
+
+Singer's aggressive selling had begun to overcome the public's suspicion
+of sewing machines. He pioneered in the use of lavishly decorated
+sewing-machine showrooms when the company offices were expanded in the
+mid-1850s (fig. 30). These were rich with carved walnut furniture,
+gilded ornaments, and carpeted floors, places in which Victorian women
+were not ashamed to be seen. The machines were demonstrated by pretty
+young women. The total effect was a new concept of selling, and Singer
+became the drum major of a new and coming industry that had many
+followers (see fig. 31).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 34.--GROVER AND BAKER'S PATENT MODEL, 1851.
+(Smithsonian photo 32003-G.)]
+
+The first, light, family sewing machine by the Singer company was not
+manufactured until 1858 (figs. 32 and 33). Comparatively few of these
+machines were made as they proved to be too small and light. The men in
+the shop dubbed the machine "The Grasshopper," but it was officially
+called the new Family Sewing Machine or the Family Machine.[61] Because
+of its shape, Singer company brochures of the 1920s referred to it as
+the Turtleback Machine.
+
+Since the cost of sewing machines was quite high and the average family
+income was low, Clark suggested the adoption of the hire-purchase plan.
+Into the American economy thus came the now-familiar installment
+buying.
+
+Singer and Clark continued to be partners until 1863 when a corporation
+was formed. At this time Singer decided to withdraw from active work. He
+received 40 percent of the stock and retired to Paris and later to
+England, where he died in 1875.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 35.--THIS GROVER AND BAKER CABINET-STYLE SEWING
+MACHINE of 1856 bears the serial number 5675 and the patent dates
+February 11, 1851, June 22, 1852, February 22, 1853, and May 27, 1856.
+(Smithsonian photo 45572-F.)]
+
+By the mid-1850s the basic elements of a successful, practical sewing
+machine were at hand, but the continuing court litigation over rival
+patent rights seemed destined to ruin the economics of the new industry.
+It was then that the lawyer of the Grover and Baker company, another
+sewing-machine manufacturer of the early 1850s, supplied the solution.
+Grover and Baker were manufacturing a machine that was mechanically
+good, for this early period. William O. Grover was another Boston
+tailor, who, unlike many others, was convinced that the sewing machine
+was going to revolutionize his chosen trade. Although the sewing
+machines that he had seen were not very practical, he began in 1849 to
+experiment with an idea based on a new kind of stitch. His design was
+for a machine that would take both its threads from spools and eliminate
+the need to wind one thread upon a bobbin. After much experimenting, he
+proved that it was possible to make a seam by interlocking two threads
+in a succession of slipknots, but he found that building a machine to do
+this was a much more difficult task. It is quite surprising that while
+he was working on this idea, he did not stumble upon a good method to
+produce the single-thread (as opposed to Grover and Baker's two-thread)
+chainstitch, later worked out by another. Grover was working so intently
+on the use of two threads that apparently no thought of forming a stitch
+with one thread had a chance to develop.
+
+At this time Grover became a partner with another Boston tailor,
+William E. Baker, and on February 11, 1851, they were issued U.S. patent
+No. 7,931 for a machine that did exactly what Grover had set out to do;
+it made a double chainstitch with two threads both carried on ordinary
+thread spools. The machine (figs. 34 and 35) used a vertical eye-pointed
+needle for the top thread and a horizontal needle for the underthread.
+The cloth was placed on the horizontal platform or table, which had a
+hole for the entry of the vertical needle. When this needle passed
+through the cloth, it formed a loop on the underside. The horizontal
+needle passed through this loop forming another loop beyond, which was
+retained until the redescending vertical needle enchained it, and the
+process repeated. The slack in the needle thread was controlled by means
+of a spring guide. The cloth was fed by feeding rolls and a band.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 36.--GROVER'S PATENT MODEL FOR THE FIRST PORTABLE
+CASE, 1856. The machine in the case is a commercial machine of 1854,
+bearing the serial number 3012 and the patent dates "Feby 11, 1851, June
+22, 1852, Feby 22, 1853." Powered by a single, foot-shaped treadle that
+was connected by a removable wooden pitman, it also could be turned by
+hand. (Smithsonian photo 45525-D.)]
+
+A company was organized under the name of Grover and Baker Sewing
+Machine Company, and soon the partners took Jacob Weatherill, mechanic,
+and Orlando B. Potter, lawyer (who became the president), into the firm.
+Potter contributed his ability as a lawyer in lieu of a financial
+investment and handled the several succeeding patents of Grover and
+Baker. These patents were primarily for mechanical improvements such as
+U.S. patent No. 9,053 issued to Grover and Baker on June 22, 1852, for
+devising a curved upper needle and an under looper[62] to form the
+double-looped stitch which became known as the Grover and Baker stitch.
+One of the more interesting of the patents, however, was for the box or
+sewing case for which Grover was issued U.S. patent No. 14,956 on May
+27, 1856. The inventor stated "that when open the box shall constitute
+the bed for the machine to be operated upon, and hanging the machine
+thereto to facilitate oiling, cleansing, and repairs without removing it
+from the box." It was the first portable sewing machine (fig. 36).
+
+Though the Grover and Baker company manufactured machines using a
+shuttle and producing the more common lockstitch, both under royalty in
+their own name and also for other smaller companies, Potter was
+convinced that the Grover and Baker stitch was the one that eventually
+would be used in both family and commercial machines. He, as president,
+directed the efforts of the company to that end. When the basic patents
+held by the "Sewing-Machine Combination" (discussed on pp. 41-42) began
+to run out in the mid-1870s, dissolving its purpose and lowering the
+selling price of sewing machines, the Grover and Baker company began a
+systematic curtailing of expenses and closing of branch offices. All the
+patents held by the company and the business itself were sold to
+another company.[63] But the members of the Grover and Baker company
+fared well financially by the strategic move.
+
+The Grover and Baker machine and its unique stitch did not have a great
+influence on the overall development of the mechanics of machine sewing.
+The merits of a double-looped stitch--its elasticity and the taking of
+both threads from commercial spools--were outweighed by the bulkiness of
+the seam and its consumption of three times as much thread as the
+lockstitch required. Machines making a similar type of stitch have
+continued in limited use in the manufacture of knit goods and other
+products requiring an elastic seam. But, more importantly, Grover and
+Baker's astute Orlando B. Potter placed their names in the annals of
+sewing-machine history by his work in forming the "Combination,"
+believed to be the first "trust" of any prominence.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[33] See biographical sketch, pp. 138-141.
+
+[34] _In the Matter of the Application of Elias Howe, Jr. for an
+Extension of His Sewing Machine Patent Dated September 10, 1846_, New
+York, 1860, with attachments A and B, U.S. Patent Office. [L.C. call no.
+TJ 1512.H6265]
+
+[35] It is interesting to note that when William Thomas applied for the
+British patent of the Howe machine (issued Dec. 1, 1846), the courts
+would not allow the claim for the combination of the eye-pointed needle
+and shuttle to form a stitch, due to the Fisher and Gibbons patent of
+1844. For more details on Howe's years in England see his biographical
+sketch, pp. 138-141.
+
+[36] The machine referred to as the London Sewing Machine is the British
+patent of the Thimonnier machine. This patent was applied for by Jean
+Marie Magnin and was published by _Newton's London Journal_, vol. 39, p.
+317, as Magnin's invention.
+
+[37] The exact date is not known; however, it was prior to 1856 as the
+patent was included in the sewing-machine patent pool formed that year.
+
+[38] JAMES PARTON, _History of the Sewing Machine_, p. 12, (originally
+published in the _Atlantic Monthly_, May 1867), later reprinted by the
+Howe Machine Company as a separate.
+
+[39] _Sewing Machine Times_ (Feb. 25, 1907), vol. 17, no. 382, p. 1,
+"His [Bonata's] shop was on Gold Street, New York, near the Bartholf
+shop, where Howe was building some of his early machines."
+
+[40] _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 3, no. 5, p. 5, Sept. 1881-Jan. 1882.
+"History of the Sewing Machine."
+
+[41] Op. cit. (footnote 34).
+
+[42] _New York Daily Tribune_, Jan. 15, 1852, p. 2.
+
+[43] See Howe's biographical sketch, p. 141.
+
+[44] Op. cit. (footnote 34). Attachments A and B are copies of Judge
+Sprague's decisions.
+
+[45] _Sewing Machine Journal_ (July 1887), pp. 93-94.
+
+[46] _Report of the Sixth Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association, in the City of Boston, September 1850_ (Boston,
+1850).
+
+[47] See biographical sketch, pp. 141-142.
+
+[48]_Scientific American_ (Dec. 6, 1851), vol. 7, no. 12, p. 95.
+
+[49] Ibid. (Sept. 20, 1851), vol. 7, no. 1, p. 7.
+
+[50] Ibid. (June 4, 1853), vol. 7, no. 38, p. 298
+
+[51] J. D. VAN SLYCK, _New England Manufactures and Manufactories_, vol.
+2, pp. 672-682.
+
+[52] See his biographical sketch, pp. 142-143.
+
+[53] CHESTER MCNEIL, _A History of the Sewing Machine_ in Union Sales
+Bulletin, vol. 3, Union Special Sewing Machine Co., Chicago, Illinois,
+pp. 83-85. 1903.
+
+[54] _Sewing Machine Times_ (Aug. 25, 1908), vol. 18, no. 418.
+
+[55] Singer gives this limited description of the first machine, with
+detailed improvements for which he was then applying for a patent: "In
+my previous machine, to which reference has been made, the bobbin was
+carried by the needle-carrier, and hence the motion of the needle had to
+be equal to the length of thread required to form the loop, which was
+objectionable, as in many instances this range of motion was
+unnecessarily long for all other purposes...." Quoted from U.S. patent
+8,294 issued to Isaac M. Singer, Aug. 12, 1851. It should be noted that
+in some instances there was a considerable lapse of time from the date a
+patent application was made until the patent was issued. In this case
+the handwritten specifications were dated March 14, 1851, and the formal
+Patent Office receipt was dated April 16, 1851.
+
+[56] If a patent was not approved, for any reason, the records were
+placed in an "Abandoned File." In 1930 Congress authorized the disposal
+of the old "Abandoned Files," requiring them to be kept for twenty years
+only. There are no Singer Company records giving an account of the first
+patent application.
+
+[57] Its whereabouts was unknown as early as 1908, as stated in the
+_Sewing Machine Times_ (Aug. 25, 1908), vol. 18, no. 418. Models of
+abandoned patents frequently remained at the Patent Office.
+Approximately 76,000 models were ruined in a Patent Office fire in 1877.
+In 1908 over 3000 models of abandoned patents were sold at auction.
+Either incident could account for the machine's disappearance.
+
+[58] The patent model of 8,294 is a machine that bears the serial number
+22; it was manufactured before April 18, 1851, the date it was recorded
+as received by the Patent Office.
+
+[59] William R. Bagnall, in "Contributions to American Economic
+History," vol. 1 (1908), MS, Harvard School of Business Library.
+
+[60] Singer purchased Phelps' interest in the company in 1851 and sold
+it to Edward Clark.
+
+[61] This first, family sewing machine should not be confused in name
+with a model brought out in the sixties. The name of this first, family
+machine was in the sense of a new "family" sewing machine. In 1859 a
+"Letter A" family machine was introduced. Thus in 1865 when the Singer
+Company brought out another family machine they called it the "New"
+Family Sewing Machine. Both the first-style Family machine and the
+Letter A machine are illustrated in _Eighty Years of Progress of the
+United States_ (New York, 1861), vol. 2, p. 417, and discussed in an
+article, "The Place and Its Tenants," in the _Sewing Machine Times_
+(Dec. 25, 1908), vol. 27, no. 893.
+
+[62] A looper on the underside in place of the horizontal needle.
+
+[63] Domestic Sewing Machine Company. See _Union Special Sewing Machine
+Co. Sales Bulletin_, vol. 3, ch. 15, pp. 58-59.
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter Three_
+
+
+[Illustration:
++----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
+|   A PARTIAL STATEMENT FROM RECORDS OF "THE SEWING-MACHINE COMBINATION,"    |
+|             SHOWING NUMBER OF SEWING-MACHINES LICENSED ANNUALLY            |
+|                       UNDER THE _ELIAS HOWE_ PATENT.                       |
++-----+--------+---------+---------+---------+------+-------+-------+--------+
+|NAME |Wheeler |I. M.    |The      |Grover & |A. B. |Leavitt|Ladd & |Bartholf|
+|OF   |&       |Singer   |Singer   |Baker    |Howe  |S. M.  |Webster|S. M.   |
+|MANU-|Wilson  |& Co.    |Manufac- |S. M. Co.|S. M. |Co.    |S. M.  |Co.     |
+|FACT-|Mfg. Co.|         |turing   |         |Co.   |       |Co.    |        |
+|URER.|        |         |Co.      |         |      |       |       |        |
++-----+--------+---------+---------+---------+------+-------+-------+--------+
+|1853 |799     |810      |....     |657      |....  |28     |100    |135     |
+|1854 |756     |879      |....     |2,034    |60    |217    |268    |55      |
+|1855 |1,171   |883      |....     |1,144    |53    |152    |73     |31      |
+|1856 |2,210   |2,564    |....     |1,952    |47    |235    |180    |35      |
+|1857 |4,591   |3,630    |....     |3,680    |133   |195    |453    |31      |
+|1858 |7,978   |3,594    |....     |5,070    |179   |75     |490    |203     |
+|1859 |21,306  |10,953   |....     |10,280   |921   |213    |1,788  |747     |
+|1860 |25,102  |13,000(a)|....     |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |        |
+|1861 |18,556  |16,000(a)|....     |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1862 |28,202  |18,396   |....     |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1863 |29,778  |....     |20,030   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1864 |40,062  |....     |23,632   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1865 |39,157  |....     |26,340   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1866 |50,132  |....     |30,960   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
++-----+--------+---------+---------+---------+------+-------+-------+--------+
+
++-------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
+|    A PARTIAL STATEMENT SHOWING NUMBER OF SEWING-MACHINES LICENSED ANNUALLY    |
+|                         FROM 1867 TO 1876 INCLUSIVE.                          |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+| NAME OF MANUFACTURER.      |  1867.   |  1868.  |  1869.  |  1870.  |  1871.  |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+|The Singer Manufacturing Co.|43,053    |59,629   |86,781   |127,833  |181,260  |
+|Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co.   |38,055    |(b)      |78,866   |83,208   |128,526  |
+|Grover & Baker S. M. Co.    |32,999    |35,000(a)|35,188   |57,402   |50,838   |
+|Weed Sewing-Machine Co.     |3,638     |12,000   |19,687   |35,002   |39,655   |
+|Howe Sewing-Machine Co.     |11,053    |35,000(a)|45,000(a)|75,156   |134,010  |
+|A. B. Howe     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |20,051   |
+|B. P. Howe     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Willcox & Gibbs S. M.  Co.  |14,152    |15,000   |17,201   |28,890   |30,127   |
+|Wilson (W. G.)   "      "   |....      |....     |....     |....     |21,153   |
+|American B. H. & S. M. Co.  |....      |....     |7,792    |14,573   |20,121   |
+|Florence S. M. Co.          |10,534    |12,000   |13,661   |17,660   |15,947   |
+|Shaw & Clark  S. M. Co.     |2,692     |3,000    |....     |....     |....     |
+|Gold Medal    "  "  "       |....      |....     |....     |8,912    |13,562   |
+|Davis         "  "  "       |....      |....     |....     |....     |11,568   |
+|Domestic      "  "  "       |....      |....     |....     |....     |10,397   |
+|Finkle & Lyon Mfg. Co. and  |2,488     |2,000    |1,339    |2,420    |7,639    |
+|  Victor.                   |          |         |         |         |         |
+|AEtna Sewing-Machine Co.     |2,958     |3,500    |4,548    |5,806    |4,720    |
+|Blees   "      "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |4,557    |
+|Elliptic "     "     "      |3,185     |....     |....     |....     |4,555    |
+|Empire  "      "     "      |2,121     |5,000    |8,700    |....     |....     |
+|Remington Sewing-Machine Co.|....      |....     |....     |3,560    |2,965    |
+|Parham       "      "     " |....      |....     |1,141    |1,766    |2,056    |
+|Bartram & Fanton Mfg. Co.   |2,958     |....     |....     |....     |1,004    |
+|Bartlett Sewing-Machine Co. |....      |....     |....     |....     |614      |
+|J. G. Folsom                |....      |....     |....     |....     |280      |
+|McKay Sewing-Machine Asso.  |....      |....     |....     |129      |218      |
+|C. F. Thompson              |....      |....     |....     |....     |147      |
+|Union Buttonhole Machine Co.|....      |....     |....     |....     |124      |
+|Leavitt Sewing-Machine Co.  |1,051     |1,000    |771      |....     |....     |
+|Goodspeed & Wyman S. M. Co. |2,126     |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Keystone Sewing-Machine Co. |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Secor       "      "     "  |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Centennial  "      "     "  |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+| NAME OF MANUFACTURER.      |  1872.   |  1873.  |  1874.  |  1875.  |   1876. |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+|The Singer Manufacturing Co.|219,758   |232,444  |241,679  |249,852  |262,316  |
+|Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co.   |174,088   |119,190  |92,827   |103,740  |108,997  |
+|Grover & Baker S. M. Co.    |52,010    |36,179   |20,000(a)|15,000(a)|....     |
+|Weed Sewing-Machine Co.     |42,444    |21,769   |20,495   |21,993   |14,425   |
+|Howe Sewing-Machine Co.     |145,000(a)|90,000(a)|35,000(a)|25,000(a)|109,294  |
+|A. B. Howe     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|B. P. Howe     "     "      |14,907    |13,919   |....     |....     |....     |
+|Willcox & Gibbs S. M.  Co.  |33,639    |15,881   |13,710   |14,522   |12,758   |
+|Wilson (W. G.)   "      "   |22,666    |21,247   |17,525   |9,508    |....     |
+|American B. H. & S. M. Co.  |18,930    |14,182   |13,529   |14,406   |17,937   |
+|Florence S. M. Co.          |15,793    |8,960    |5,517    |4,892    |2,978    |
+|Shaw & Clark  S. M. Co.     |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Gold Medal    "  "  "       |18,897    |16,431   |15,214   |14,262   |7,185    |
+|Davis         "  "  "       |11,376    |8,861    |....     |....     |....     |
+|Domestic      "  "  "       |49,554    |40,114   |22,700   |21,452   |23,587   |
+|Finkle & Lyon Mfg. Co. and  |11,901    |7,446    |6,292    |6,103    |5,750    |
+|  Victor.                   |          |         |         |         |         |
+|AEtna Sewing-Machine Co.     |4,262     |3,081    |1,866    |1,447    |707      |
+|Blees   "      "     "      |6,053     |3,458    |....     |....     |....     |
+|Elliptic "     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Empire  "      "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Remington Sewing-Machine Co.|4,982     |9,183    |17,608   |25,110   |12,716   |
+|Parham       "      "     " |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Bartram & Fanton Mfg. Co.   |1,000     |1,000    |250      |....     |....     |
+|Bartlett Sewing-Machine Co. |1,000     |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|J. G. Folsom                |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|McKay Sewing-Machine Asso.  |....      |....     |128      |161      |102      |
+|C. F. Thompson              |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Union Buttonhole Machine Co.|....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Leavitt Sewing-Machine Co.  |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Goodspeed & Wyman S. M. Co. |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Keystone Sewing-Machine Co. |2,665     |217      |37       |....     |....     |
+|Secor       "      "     "  |311       |3,430    |4,541    |1,307    |....     |
+|Centennial  "      "     "  |....      |514      |....     |....     |....     |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+
+(a) Number estimated.
+(b) No data.
+
+Figure 37.--TABLE OF SEWING-MACHINE STATISTICS. From Frederick G.
+Bourne, "American Sewing Machines" in _One Hundred Years of American
+Commerce_, vol. 2. ed. Chauncey Mitchell Depew (New York: D. O. Haines,
+1895), p. 530. (Smithsonian photo 42542-A.)]
+
+
+The "Sewing-Machine Combination"
+
+With the basic elements of a successful sewing machine assembled, the
+various manufacturers should have been able to produce good machines
+unencumbered. The court order, however, which restrained several firms
+from selling Singer machines while the Howe suit was pending, started a
+landslide; soon Wheeler, Wilson and company, Grover and Baker company,
+and several others[64] purchased rights from Elias Howe. This gave Howe
+almost absolute control of the sewing-machine business as these
+companies agreed to his royalty terms of $25 for every machine sold. In
+an attempt to improve his own machine, Howe was almost immediately
+caught up in another series of legal battles in which he was the
+defendant; the companies he had defeated were able to accuse him of
+infringing on patents that they owned. To compound the confusion,
+individual companies also were suing each other on various grounds.
+
+Because of this situation Orlando B. Potter, president of the Grover and
+Baker company, advanced in 1856 the idea of a "Combination" of
+sewing-machine manufacturers. He pointed out how the various companies
+were harming themselves by continuing litigation and tried to convince
+Howe that all would benefit by an agreement of some kind. He proposed
+that Elias Howe; Wheeler, Wilson and company; I. M. Singer and company;
+and Grover and Baker company pool their patents covering the essential
+features of the machine. The three companies had started production
+about the same time and approved of Potter's idea; Howe opposed it as he
+felt that he had the most to lose by joining the "Combination." He
+finally consented to take part in Potter's plan if the others would
+agree to certain stipulations. The first requirement was that at least
+twenty-four manufacturers were to be licensed. The second was that, in
+addition to sharing equally in the profits with the three companies,
+Howe would receive a royalty of $5 for each machine sold in the United
+States and $1 for each machine exported. It has been estimated that, as
+a result of this agreement, Howe received at least $2,000,000 as his
+share of the license fees between 1856 and 1867 when his patent
+expired.[65]
+
+The organization was called the Sewing-Machine Trust and/or the
+Sewing-Machine Combination. The important patents contributed to it
+were:
+
+     1. The grooved, eye-pointed needle used with a shuttle to form the
+     lockstitch (E. Howe patent, held by E. Howe);
+
+     2. The four-motion feeding mechanism (A. B. Wilson patent, held by
+     Wheeler and Wilson company);
+
+     3. The needle moving vertically above a horizontal work-plate
+     (Bachelder patent), a continuous feeding device by belt or wheel
+     (Bachelder patent), a yielding presser resting on the cloth
+     (Bachelder patent), the spring or curved arm to hold the cloth by a
+     yielding pressure (Morey and Johnson patent), the heart-shaped cam
+     as applied to moving the needle bar (Singer patent); all these
+     patents, held by the Singer Company.[66]
+
+The Grover and Baker company contributed several patents of relative
+importance, but its most important claim for admission was the fact that
+Potter had promoted the idea.
+
+The consent of all four member-parties was required before any license
+could be granted, and all were required to have a license--even the
+member companies. The fee was $15 per machine. A portion of this money
+was set aside to pay the cost of prosecuting infringers, Howe received
+his initial fee, and the rest was divided between the four parties. The
+advantage to the licensee was that he was required to pay only one fee.
+Most license applications were granted; only those manufacturing a
+machine specifically imitating the product of a licensed manufacturer
+were refused.
+
+The "Combination's" three company members each continued to manufacture,
+improve, and perfect its own machine. Other than the joint control of
+the patents, there was no pooling of interests, and each company
+competed to attract purchasers to buy its particular type of machine, as
+did the companies who were licensed by them.
+
+In 1860, the year Howe's patent was renewed, the general license fee was
+reduced from $15 to $7, and Howe's special royalty was reduced to $1 per
+machine. Howe remained a member until his patent ran out in 1867. The
+other members continued the "Combination" until 1877, when the Bachelder
+patent, which had been extended twice, finally expired. By that time the
+fundamental features of the sewing machine were no longer controlled by
+anyone. Open competition by the smaller manufacturers was possible, and
+a slight reduction in price followed. Many new companies came into
+being--some destined to be very short-lived.
+
+From the beginning to the end of the "Combination" there was an army of
+independents, including infringers and imitators, who kept up a constant
+complaint against it, maintaining that its existence tended to retard
+the improvement of the sewing machine and that the public suffered
+thereby. In the period immediately following the termination of the
+"Combination," however, only a few improvements of any importance were
+made, and most of these were by the member companies.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[64] These included the American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co.; A.
+Bartholf; Nichols and Bliss; J. A. Lerow; Woolridge, Keene, and Moore;
+and A. B. Howe. _New York Daily Tribune_, Sept. 3, 1853.
+
+[65] "Who Invented the Sewing-Machine," unsigned article in _The
+Galaxy_, vol. 4, August 31, 1867, pp. 471-481.
+
+[66] Singer has sometimes been credited as the inventor of the various
+improvements covered by the patents that the Singer company purchased
+and later contributed to the efforts of the Combination.
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter Four_
+
+[Illustration: Figure 38.--GIBBS' PATENT MODEL, 1857. (Smithsonian photo
+45504-E.)]
+
+Less Expensive Machines
+
+
+While the "Combination" was attempting to solve the problems of patent
+litigation, another problem faced the would-be home users of this new
+invention. The budget limitations of the average family caused a demand
+for a less expensive machine, for this first consumer appliance was a
+most desirable commodity.[67]
+
+There were many attempts to satisfy this demand, but one of the best and
+most successful grew out of a young man's curiosity. James E. A. Gibbs'
+first exposure to the sewing machine was in 1855 when, at the age of 24,
+he saw a simple woodcut illustration of a Grover and Baker machine. The
+woodcut represented only the upper part of the machine. Nothing in the
+illustration indicated that more than one thread was used, and none of
+the stitch-forming mechanism was visible. Gibbs assumed that the stitch
+was formed with one thread; he then proceeded to imagine a mechanism
+that would make a stitch with one thread. His solution was described in
+his own statement:
+
+     As I was then living in a very out of the way place, far from
+     railroads and public conveyances of all kinds, modern improvements
+     seldom reached our locality, and not being likely to have my
+     curiosity satisfied otherwise, I set to work to see what I could
+     learn from the woodcut, which was not accompanied by any
+     description. I first discovered that the needle was attached to a
+     needle arm, and consequently could not pass entirely through the
+     material, but must retreat through the same hole by which it
+     entered. From this I saw that I could not make a stitch similar to
+     handwork, but must have some other mode of fastening the thread on
+     the underside, and among other possible methods of doing this, the
+     chainstitch occurred to me as a likely means of accomplishing the
+     end.
+
+     I next endeavored to discover how this stitch was or could be made,
+     and from the woodcut I saw that the driving shaft which had the
+     driving wheel on the outer end, passed along under the cloth plate
+     of the machine. I knew that the mechanism which made the stitch
+     must be connected with and actuated by this driving shaft. After
+     studying the position and relations of the needle and shaft with
+     each other, I conceived the idea of the revolving hook on the end
+     of the shaft, which might take hold of the thread and manipulate it
+     into a chainstitch. My ideas were, of course, very crude and
+     indefinite, but it will be seen that I then had the correct
+     conception of the invention afterwards embodied in my machine.[68]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 39.--ONE OF THE FIRST COMMERCIAL MACHINES produced
+by the Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Co. in 1857, this machine bears no
+serial number, although the name "James E. A. Gibbs" is inscribed in two
+places on the cloth plate. It was used as the patent model for Gibbs'
+improvement on his 1857 patent issued the following year on August 10,
+1858. (Smithsonian photo P. 6393.)]
+
+Gibbs had no immediate interest in the sewing machine other than to
+satisfy his curiosity. He did not think of it again until January 1856
+when he was visiting his father in Rockbridge County, Virginia. While in
+a tailor's shop there, he happened to see a Singer machine. Gibbs was
+very much impressed, but thought the machine entirely too heavy,
+complicated, and cumbersome, and the price exorbitant. It was then that
+he recalled the machine he had devised. Remembering how simple it was,
+he decided to work in earnest to produce a less-expensive type of sewing
+machine.
+
+Gibbs had little time to spend on this invention since his family was
+dependent upon him for support, but he managed to find time at night and
+during inclement weather. In contemporary references, Gibbs is referred
+to as a farmer, but since he is also reported to have had employers, it
+may be surmised that he was a farmhand. In any event, his decision to
+try to produce a less-expensive sewing machine suffered from a lack of
+proper tools and adequate materials. Most of the machine had to be
+constructed of wood, and he was forced to make his own needles. By the
+end of April 1856, however, his model was sufficiently completed to
+arouse the interest of his employers, who agreed to furnish the money
+necessary to patent the machine.
+
+Gibbs went to Washington, where he examined sewing-machine models in the
+Patent Office and other machines then on the market. Completing his
+investigations, Gibbs made a trip to Philadelphia and showed his
+invention to a builder of models of new inventions, James Willcox. Much
+impressed with the machine, Willcox arranged for Gibbs to work with his
+son, Charles Willcox, in a small room in the rear of his shop. After
+taking out two minor patents (on December 16, 1856, and January 20,
+1857), Gibbs obtained his important one, U.S. patent No. 17,427 on June
+2, 1857 (fig. 38). His association with Charles Willcox led to the
+formation of the Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company, and they began
+manufacturing chainstitch machines in 1857 (fig. 39). The machine used a
+straight needle to make a chainstitch. At the forward end of the main
+shaft was a hook which, as it rotated, carried the loop of
+needle-thread, elongated and held it expanded while the feed moved the
+cloth until the needle at the next stroke descended through the loop so
+held. When the needle descended through the first loop, the point of the
+hook was again in position to catch the second loop, at which time the
+first loop was cast off and the second loop drawn through it, the first
+loop having been drawn up against the lower edge of the cloth to form a
+chain.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 40.--A DOLPHIN sewing machine based on Clark's
+patent of 1858. This design was first used by T. J. W. Robertson in
+1855, but in his patent issued on May 22 of that year no claim was made
+for the machine design, only for the chainstitch mechanism. The same
+style was used by D. W. Clark in several of his chainstitch patents, but
+he also made no claim for the design, stating that the machine "may be
+made in any desired ornamental form." The dolphin-style machines are all
+chainstitch models of solid brass, originally gilt. Although only about
+five inches long, they are full-size machines using a full-size needle.
+(Smithsonian photo 45505.)]
+
+A Gibbs sewing machine, on a simple iron-frame stand with treadle, sold
+for approximately $50 in the late 1850s,[69] while a Wheeler and
+Wilson[70] machine or a Grover and Baker[71] with the same type of
+stand sold for approximately $100. After the introduction of the Gibbs
+machine, the Singer company[72] brought out a light family machine in
+1858 that was also first sold for $100. It was then reduced to $50, but
+it was not popular because it was too light (see discussion of Singer
+machines, pp. 34-35). In 1859, Singer brought out its second, more
+successful family machine, which sold for $75.
+
+Like the other companies licensed by the "Combination," Willcox and
+Gibbs company paid a royalty for the use of the patents it held.
+Although the Willcox and Gibbs machine was a single-thread chainstitch
+machine and the company held the Gibbs patents, the company was required
+to be licensed to use the basic feed, vertical needle, and other
+related patents held by the "Sewing-Machine Combination."
+
+With the approach of the Civil War, Gibbs returned to Virginia. Poor
+health prevented him from taking an active part in the war, but he
+worked throughout the conflict in a factory processing saltpeter for
+gunpowder. Afterward, Gibbs returned to Philadelphia and found that
+Willcox had faithfully protected his sewing-machine interests during his
+long absence. The firm prospered, and Gibbs finally retired to Virginia
+a wealthy man. Interestingly, Gibbs named the Virginia village to which
+he returned in later life "Raphine"--derived, somewhat incorrectly, from
+the Greek word "to sew."
+
+The Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company is one of the few old
+companies still in existence. It discontinued making and selling
+family-style machines many years ago and directed its energies toward
+specialized commercial sewing machines, many of which are based on the
+original chainstitch principle.
+
+There was also an ever-increasing number of other patentees and
+manufacturers who, in the late 1850s and 1860s, attempted to produce a
+sewing machine that would circumvent both the "Combination" and the high
+cost of manufacturing a more complicated type of machine. Some of the
+more interesting of these are pictured and described in figures 40
+through 54.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 41.--THE CHERUB sewing machine was another
+Robertson first which was adopted by Clark. Robertson's patent of
+October 20, 1857, once again makes no claim for the design; neither does
+Clark's patent of January 5, 1858, illustrated here. The machine is
+approximately the same size as the dolphin and is made in the same
+manner and of the same materials. Two cherubs form the main support, one
+also supporting the spool and leashing a dragonfly which backs the
+needle mechanism. (Smithsonian photo 45504-D.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 42.--THE FOLIAGE SEWING MACHINE originated with D.
+W. Clark. Once again he did not include the design in his June 8, 1858,
+patent, which was aimed at improving the feeding mechanism. Like most
+hand-turned models, these required a clamp to fasten them to the table
+when in operation. (Smithsonian photo 45504-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 43.--THE SEWING SHEARS was another popular machine
+of unusual style. Some models were designed to both cut and sew, but
+most derived their names from the method of motivating power. The
+earliest example of the sewing-shears machine was invented by Joseph
+Hendrick, who stated in his patent that he was attempting to produce "a
+simple, portable, cheap, and efficient machine." His patent model of
+October 5, 1858, is illustrated. (Smithsonian photo 45504-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 44.--THE HORSE SEWING MACHINE is among the most
+unusual of the patents issued for mechanical improvements. Although
+James Perry, the patentee, made several claims for the looper, feeder,
+and tension, he made no mention of the unusual design of the machine,
+for which a patent was issued on November 23, 1858. Although it was
+probably one of a kind, the horse machine illustrates the extent to
+which the inventor's mind struggled for original design. (Smithsonian
+photo 45505-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 45.--MANY INVENTORS attempted to cut the cost of
+manufacturing a complicated machine. One of these was Albert H. Hook,
+whose machine is only about four inches high and two inches wide. His
+patent, granted November 30, 1858, simplified the construction and
+arrangement of the various parts. Although Hook used a barbed needle
+reminiscent of the one used by Thimonnier, his method of forming the
+stitch was entirely different. The thread was passed through the
+necessary guides, and when the cloth was in place the needle was thrust
+up from below. Passing through the fabric, the needle descended,
+carrying with it a loop of thread. As the process was repeated, a
+chainstitch was formed with the enchained loop on the under side. In
+spite of its simple mechanism, Hook's machine was not a commercial
+success. (Smithsonian photo 45505-D.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 46.--IN ADDITION TO MECHANICAL PATENTS, a number
+of design patents were also issued for sewing machines. These fall into
+a separate series in the Patent Office's numerical records. This unusual
+example featured two semidraped female figures holding the spool of
+thread, a mermaid holding the needle, a serpent which served as the
+presser foot, and a heart-shaped baster plate. The design was patented
+by W. N. Brown, October 25, 1859, but no examples other than the patent
+model are known to have been made. (Smithsonian photo 45504-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 47.--THE SQUIRREL MACHINE was another interesting
+design patent. S. B. Ellithorp had received a mechanical patent for a
+two-thread, stationary-bobbin machine on August 26, 1857. That same
+month he published a picture of his machine, shown here as republished
+in the _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 7, no. 11, November 1885. The machine
+was designed in the shape of "the ordinary gray squirrel so common
+throughout this country--an animal that is selected as a type of
+provident care and forethought, for its habits of frugality and for
+making provision for seasons of scarcity and want in times of
+plenty--and the different parts of the animal are each put to a useful
+purpose; the moving power being placed within its body, the needle stock
+through its head, one of its fore feet serving to guide the thread, and
+the other to hold down the cloth while being sewed, and the tip of its
+tail forming a support to the spool from which the thread is supplied."
+
+Although the design patent was not secured until June 7, 1859, the
+inventor was reported to have been perfecting his machine for
+manufacture in 1857. Ellithorp planned "to place them in market at a
+price that will permit families and individuals that have heretofore
+been deterred from purchasing a machine by the excessive and exorbitant
+price charged for those now in use, to possess one." Patent rights were
+sold under the name of Ellithorp & Fox, but the machine was never
+manufactured on a large scale, if at all. No squirrel machines are known
+to have survived. (Smithsonian photo 53112.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 48.--HEYER'S POCKET SEWING MACHINE patent model,
+November 17, 1863. This patent model is one piece, and measures about
+two inches in height and two inches in length. It will stitch--but only
+coarse, loosely woven fabrics. As can be expected, a great deal of
+manual dexterity is required to compensate for the omission of
+mechanical parts. Heyer advertised patent rights for sale, but evidence
+of manufactured machines of this type has yet to be discovered.
+(Smithsonian photo 18115-D[a].)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 49.--HEYER'S MACHINE as illustrated in _Scientific
+American_, July 30, 1864. The smallest and most original of all the
+attempts to simplify machine sewing, Heyer's machine, which made a
+chainstitch, was constructed of a single strip of metal. The _Scientific
+American_ stated: "It is simply a steel spring ingeniously bent and
+arranged and it is said to sew small articles very well. The whole
+affair can easily be carried in the coat pocket."
+
+One method of operation, vibrating with the finger, was illustrated. The
+machine could be operated also by holding it in the hand and pressuring
+it between two fingers. Cloth was inserted at _c_, and the prongs of the
+spring feed _f_ carried it along after each stitch. It was stated that
+the needle could be cut from the same strip of metal, but it was advised
+also that the needle could be made as a separate piece and attached.
+(Smithsonian photo 48221.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 50.--ALTHOUGH BEAN'S AND RODGERS' running-stitch
+machines, the second and fourth U.S. sewing-machine patents, experienced
+little commercial success, small manufactured machines based on Aaron
+Palmer's patent of May 13, 1862, were popular in the 1860s. The patent
+model above is a small brass implement with crimping gears that forced
+the fabric onto an ordinary sewing needle. The full needle was then
+removed from its position, and the thread was pulled through the fabric
+by hand. (Smithsonian photo 45524.)]
+
+[Illustration: THE FAIRY SEWING-MACHINE. A HOLIDAY GIFT FOR THE
+WORK-TABLE
+
+Figure 51.--ONE OF THE EARLY COMMERCIAL MANUFACTURERS of the Palmer
+patent was Madame Demorest, a New York dressmaker. She advertised her
+Fairy sewing machine in _Godey's Lady's Book_, vol. 66, 1863, and
+stated: "In the first place it will attract attention from its
+diminutive, fairy-like size, and with the same ease with which it can be
+carried, an important matter to a seamstress or dressmaker employed from
+house to house ... What no other sewing machine attempts to do, it runs,
+and does not stitch, it sews the more delicate materials an ordinary
+sewing machine cuts or draws...." (Smithsonian photo 43690.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 52.--THE FAIRY SEWING MACHINE sold for five
+dollars and was adequate for its advertised purpose, sewing or running
+very lightweight fabrics. The machine was marked with the Palmer patent,
+the date May 13, 1862, and the name "Mme. Demorest."
+
+A machine identical to the Fairy, but bearing both Palmer patent dates,
+May 13, 1862, and June 19, 1863, and the name "Gold Medal," was
+manufactured by a less-scrupulous company. This machine was advertised
+as follows: "A first class sewing machine, handsomely ornamented, with
+all working parts silver plated. Put up in a highly polished mahogany
+case, packed ready for shipment. Price $10.00. This machine uses a
+common sewing needle, is very simple. A child can operate it. Cash with
+order." Some buyers felt they were swindled, as they had expected a
+heavy-duty machine, but no recourse could be taken against the
+advertiser. Another similar machine was also manufactured under the name
+"Little Gem." (Smithsonian photo 45525.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 53 and 54.--RUNNING-STITCH MACHINES were also
+attempted by several other inventors. Shaw & Clark, manufacturers of
+chainstitch machines, patented this running-stitch machine on April 21,
+1863. From the appearance of the patent model, it was already in
+commercial production. On May 26, 1863, John D. Dale also received a
+patent for an improvement related to the method of holding the needle
+and regulating the stitches in a running-stitch machine. Dale's patent
+model was a commercial machine.
+
+John Heberling patented several improvements in 1878 and 1880. His
+machine, which was a little larger and in appearance resembled a more
+conventional type of sewing machine, was a commercial success. (Shaw &
+Clark: Smithsonian photo P. 6395; Dale: Smithsonian photo P. 6394.)]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[67] _Scientific American_ (Jan. 29, 1859), vol. 14, no. 21, p. 165. In
+a description of the new Willcox and Gibbs sewing machine the following
+observation is made: "It is astonishing how, in a few years, the sewing
+machine has made such strides in popular favor, and become, from being a
+mechanical wonder, a household necessity and extensive object of
+manufacture. While the higher priced varieties have such a large sale,
+it is no wonder that the cheaper ones sell in such tremendous
+quantities, and that our inventors are always trying to produce
+something new and cheap."
+
+[68] Op. cit. (footnote 53), pp. 129-131.
+
+[69] _Scientific American_, vol. 15, no. 21 (January 29, 1859), p. 165,
+and Willcox and Gibbs advertising brochure, 1864.
+
+[70] _Scientific American_, vol. 12, no. 8 (November 1, 1856), p. 62.
+
+[71] Ibid., vol. 1, no. 19 (November 5, 1859), p. 303.
+
+[72] I. M. Singer & Co.'s Gazette, vol. 5, no. 4 (March 1, 1859), p. 4,
+and a brochure, _Singer's New Family Sewing Machine_ (in Singer
+Manufacturing Company, Historic Archives).
+
+
+
+
+_Appendixes_
+
+
+
+
+I. Notes on the Development and Commercial Use of the Sewing Machine
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+While researching the history of the invention and the development of
+the sewing machine, many items of related interest concerning the
+machine's economic value came to light. The manufacture of the machines
+was in itself a boost to the economy of the emerging "industrial United
+States," as was the production of attachments for specialized stitching
+and the need for new types of needles and thread. Moreover, the
+machine's ability to speed up production permitted it to permeate the
+entire field of products manufactured by any type of stitching, from
+umbrellas to tents. Since this aspect of the story was not completed for
+this study, no attempt will be made to include any definitive statements
+on the economic importance of the sewing machine at home or abroad. This
+related information is of sufficient interest, however, to warrant
+inclusion in this first Appendix. Perhaps these notes will suggest areas
+of future research for students of American technology.
+
+
+READY-MADE CLOTHING
+
+Whether of the expensive or the inexpensive type, the sewing machine was
+much more than a popular household appliance. Its introduction had
+far-reaching effects on many different types of manufacturing
+establishments as well as on the export trade. The newly developing
+ready-made clothing industry was not only in a state of development to
+welcome the new machine but also was, in all probability, responsible
+for its immediate practical application and success.
+
+Until the early part of the second quarter of the 19th century, the
+ready-made clothing trade in the United States was confined almost
+entirely to furnishing the clothing required by sailors about to ship
+out to sea. The stores that kept these supplies were usually in the
+neighborhood of wharf areas. But other than the needs of these seamen,
+there was little market for ready-made goods. Out of necessity many of
+the families in the early years in this country had made their own
+clothing. As wealth was acquired and taste could be cultivated,
+professional seamstresses and tailors were in increasing demand, moved
+into the cities and towns, and even visited the smaller villages for as
+long as their services were needed. At the same time a related trade was
+also growing in the cities, especially in New York City, that of dealing
+in second-hand clothing. Industrious persons bought up old clothes,
+cleaned, repaired and refinished them, and sold the clothing to
+immigrants and transients who wished to avoid the high cost of new
+custom-made clothing.
+
+The repairing of this second-hand clothing led to the purchase of cheap
+cloth at auction--"half-burnt," "wet-goods," and other damaged yardage.
+When in excess of the repairing needs, this fabric was made into
+garments and sold with the second-hand items. Many visitors who passed
+through New York City were found to be potential buyers of this
+merchandise if a better class of ready-made clothes was made available.
+Manufacture began to increase. Tailors of the city began to keep an
+assortment of finished garments on hand. When visitors bought these,
+they were also very likely to buy additional garments for resale at
+home. The latter led to the establishment of the wholesale
+garment-manufacturing industry in New York about 1834-35.
+
+Most of the ready-made clothing establishments were small operations,
+not large factories. Large quantities of cloth were purchased; cutting
+was done in multiple layers with tailor's shears. Since many
+seamstresses were needed, the garments were farmed out to the girls in
+their homes. The manufacture of garments in quantity meant that the
+profit on each garment was larger than a tailor could make on a single
+custom-made item. The appeal of increased profits influenced many to
+enter the new industry and, due to the ensuing competition, the retail
+cost of each garment was lowered. Just as the new businesses were
+getting underway, the Panic of 1837 ruined most of them. But the lower
+cost and the convenience of ready-made clothing had left its mark. Not
+only was the garment-manufacturing business re-established soon after
+the Panic had subsided, but by 1841 the value of clothing sold at
+wholesale in New York was estimated at $2,500,000 and by 1850--a year
+before sewing machines were manufactured in any quantity--there were
+4,278 clothing manufacturing establishments in the United States. Beside
+New York City, Cincinnati was also one of the important ready-made
+clothing centers. In 1850 the value of its products amounted to
+$4,427,500 and in 1860 to $6,381,190. Boston was another important
+center with a ready-made clothing production of $4,567,749 in 1860.
+Philadelphia, Baltimore, Louisville, and St. Louis all had a large
+wholesale clothing trade by 1860. Here was the ready market for a
+practical sewing machine.[73]
+
+Clothing establishments grew and began to have agencies in small towns
+and the sewing work was distributed throughout the countryside. The new,
+competing sewing-machine companies were willing to deliver a machine for
+a small sum and to allow the buyer to pay a dollar or two a month until
+the full amount of the sale was paid. This was an extension of the
+hire-purchase plan (buying on credit) initiated by Clark of the Singer
+Company. The home seamstresses were eager to buy, for they were able to
+produce more piecework with a sewing machine and therefore earn more
+money. An example of the effect that the sewing machine had on the
+stitching time required was interestingly established through a series
+of experiments conducted by the Wheeler and Wilson company. Four hand
+sewers and four sewing-machine operators were used to provide the
+average figures in this comparative time study, the results of which
+were published in 1861;[74]
+
+
+NUMBER OF STITCHES PER MINUTE
+
+                                    _By Hand_  _By Machine_
+  Patent leather, fine stitching        7          175
+  Binding hats                         33          374
+  Stitching vamped shoes               10          210
+  Stitching fine linen                 23          640
+  Stitching fine silk                  30          550
+
+
+TIME FOR GARMENTS STITCHED
+
+                                _By Hand_          _By Machine_
+  Frock coats                16 hrs. 35 min.     2 hrs. 38 min.
+  Satin vests                 7 hrs. 19 min.     1 hr. 14 min.
+  Summer pants                2 hrs. 50 min.     0 hr. 38 min.
+  Calico dress                6 hrs. 37 min.     0 hr. 57 min.
+  Plain apron                 1 hr. 26 min.      0 hr. 9 min.
+  Gentlemen's shirts         14 hrs. 26 min.     1 hr. 16 min.
+
+The factory manufacturer, with the sewing work done at the factory, was
+also developing. In 1860, Oliver F. Winchester, a shirt manufacturer of
+New Haven, Connecticut, stated that his factory turned out 800 dozen
+shirts per week, using 400 sewing machines and operators to do the work
+of 2,000 hand sewers. The price for hand sewing was then $3 per week,
+which made labor costs $6000 per week. The 400 machine operators
+received $4 per week, making the labor cost $1600 per week. Allowing
+$150 as the cost of each machine, the sewing machines more than paid for
+themselves in less than 14 weeks, increased the operators pay by $1 a
+week, and lowered the retail cost of the item.[75] The greatest savings
+of time, which was as much as fifty percent, was in the manufacture of
+light goods--such items as shirts, aprons, and calico dresses. The
+Commissioner of Patents weighed the monetary effect that this or any
+invention had on the economy against the monetary gain received by the
+patentee. When he found that the patentee had not been fairly
+compensated, he had the authority to grant a seven-year extension to the
+patent.[76]
+
+The sewing machine also contributed to the popularity of certain
+fashions. Ready-made cloaks for women were a business of a few years'
+standing when the sewing machine was adopted for their manufacture in
+1853. Machine sewing reduced the cost of constructing the garment by
+about eighty percent, thereby decreasing its price and increasing its
+popularity. In New York City alone, the value of the "cloak and
+mantilla" manufacture in 1860 was $618,400.[77] Crinolines and
+hoopskirts were easier to stitch by machine than by hand, and these
+items had a spirited period of popularity due to the introduction of the
+sewing machine. Braiding, pleating, and tucking adorned many costume
+items because they could be produced by machine with ease and rapidity.
+
+In addition to using the sewing machine for the manufacture of shirts,
+collars, and related men's furnishings, the machine was also used in the
+production of men's and boy's suits and reportedly gave "a vast impetus
+to the trade."[78] The Army, however, was not quite convinced of the
+sewing machine's practical adaptation to its needs. Although a sewing
+machine was purchased for the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot as early
+as 1851, they had only six by 1860. On March 31, 1859, General Jesup of
+the Philadelphia Depot wrote to a Nechard & Company stating that the
+machine sewing had been tried but was not used for clothing, only for
+stitching caps and chevrons. In another letter, on the same day, to
+"Messers Hebrard & Co., Louisiana Steam Clothing Factory, N. Orleans,"
+Jesup states: "Machine sewing has been tried with us, and though it
+meets the requirements of a populous and civilized life, it has been
+found not to answer for the hard wear and tear and limited means of our
+frontier service. Particular attention has been paid to this subject,
+and we have abandoned the use of machines for coats, jackets and
+trousers, etc. and use them on caps and bands that are not exposed to
+much hard usage...."[79] At this period prior to the Civil War, the Army
+manufactured its own clothing. As the demands of war increased, more and
+more of the Army's clothing supplies were furnished on open
+contract--with no specifications as to stitching.[80] Machine
+stitching, in fact, is found in most of the Civil War uniforms. One of
+the problems that most probably affected the durability of the machine
+stitching in the 1850s was the sewing thread, a problem that was not
+solved until the 1860s and which is discussed later under "thread for
+the machine."
+
+[Illustration: Figure 55.--BLAKE'S LEATHER-STITCHING MACHINE patent
+model of July 6, 1858; the inventor claimed the arrangement of the
+mechanism used and an auxiliary arm capable of entering the shoe, which
+enabled the outer sole to be stitched both to the inner sole and to the
+upper part of the shoe. (Smithsonian photo 50361.)]
+
+
+SHOE MANUFACTURE
+
+Another industry that was aided by the new invention was that of shoe
+manufacture. Although the earliest sewing-machine patents in the United
+States reflect the inventors' efforts to solve the difficult task of
+leather stitching, and, although machines were used to a limited extent
+in stitching some parts of the shoe in the early and mid-1850s, it was
+not until 1858 that a machine was invented that could stitch the sole to
+the inner sole and to the upper part of the shoe. This was the invention
+of Lyman R. Blake and was patented by him on July 8, 1858; the patent
+model is shown in figure 55. Blake formed a chainstitch by using a
+hooked needle, which descended from above, to draw a thread through the
+supporting arm. Serving as the machine's bedplate, the arm was shaped to
+accommodate the stitching of all the parts of the shoe.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 56.--HARRIS' patent thread cutter, 1872.
+(Smithsonian photo P-6397.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 57.--WEST'S patent thread cutter, 1874.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63100.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 58.--KARR'S patent needle threader, 1871.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63101.)]
+
+The increased number of shoes required by the Army during the Civil War
+spurred the use of the sewing machine in their manufacture. The first
+"machine sewed bootees" were purchased by the Army in 1861. Inventors
+continued their efforts; the most prominent of these was Gordon McKay,
+who worked on an improvement of the Blake machine with Robert Mathies in
+1862 and then with Blake in 1864. Reportedly, the Government at first
+preferred the machine-stitched shoes as they lasted eight times longer
+than those stitched by hand; during the war the Army purchased 473,000
+pairs, but in 1871 the Quartermaster General wrote:
+
+     No complaints regarding the quality of these shoes were received up
+     to February 1867 when a Board of Survey, which convened at Hart's
+     Island, New York Harbor reported upon the inferior quality of
+     certain machine sewed bootees of the McKay patent, issued to the
+     enlisted men at that post. The acting Quartermaster General, Col.
+     D. H. Rucker, April 10, 1867, addressed a letter to all the
+     officers in charge of depots, with instructions not to issue any
+     more of the shoes in question, but to report to this office the
+     quantity remaining in store. From these reports it appears that
+     there were in store at that time 362,012 pairs M. S. Bootees, all
+     of which were ordered to be, and have since been sold at public
+     auction.[81]
+
+The exact complaint against the shoes was not recorded. Possibly the
+entire shoe was stitched by machine. It was found that although
+machine-stitched shoes were more durable in some respects and the upper
+parts of most shoes continued to be machine stitched, pegged soles for
+the more durable varieties remained the fashion for a decade or more, as
+did custom hand-stitched shoes for those who could afford them.
+
+
+OTHER USES
+
+The use of sewing machines in all types of manufacturing that required
+stitching of any type continued to grow each year. While the principal
+purpose for which they were utilized continued to be the manufacture of
+clothing items, by the year 1900 they were also used for awnings, tents,
+and sails; cloth bags; bookbinding and related book manufacture; flags
+and banners; pocketbooks, trunks, and valises; saddlery and harnesses;
+mattresses; umbrellas; linen and rubber belting and hose; to the
+aggregate sum of nearly a billion dollars--$979,988,413.[82]
+
+
+SEWING-MACHINE ATTACHMENTS
+
+The growing popularity of the sewing machine offered still another boost
+to the economy--the development of many minor, related manufacturing
+industries. The repetitive need for machine needles, the development of
+various types of attachments to simplify the many sewing tasks, and the
+ever-increasing need for more and better sewing thread--the sewing
+machine consumed from two to five times as much thread as stitching by
+hand--created new manufacturing establishments and new jobs.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 59.--SHANK'S patent bobbin winder, 1870.
+(Smithsonian photo P-6398.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 60.--SWEET'S patent binder, 1853. (Smithsonian
+photo P-6396.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 61.--SPOUL'S patent braid guide, 1871.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63102.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 62.--ROSE'S patent embroiderer, 1881. (Smithsonian
+photo P-6399.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 63.--HARRIS' patent buttonhole attachment, 1882.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63103.)]
+
+The method of manufacturing machine needles did not differ appreciably
+from the method used in making the common sewing needle, but the latter
+had never become an important permanent industry in the United States.
+Since the manufacture of practical sewing machines was essentially an
+American development and the eye-pointed needle a vital component of the
+machine, it followed that the manufacture of needles would also develop
+here. Although such a manufacture was established in 1852,[83] foreign
+imports still supplied much of the need in the 1870s. As more highly
+specialized stitching machines were developed, an ever-increasing
+variety of needles was required, and the industry grew.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 64.--THE TREADLE OF THE MACHINE was also used to
+help create music. George D. Garvie and George Wood received patent
+267,874, Nov. 21, 1882, for "a cover for a sewing machine provided with
+a musical instrument and means for transmitting motion from the shaft of
+the sewing machine to the operating parts of the musical instrument."
+Although no patent model was submitted by the inventors, the "Musical
+Sewing Machine Cover" was offered for sale as early as October 1882, as
+shown by this advertisement that appeared in _The Sewing Machine News_
+that month. (Smithsonian photo 57983.)]
+
+Soon after the sewing machine was commercially successful, special
+attachments for it were invented and manufactured. These ranged from the
+simplest devices for cutting thread to complicated ones for making
+buttonholes (see figs. 56 through 66).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 65.--THIS FANNING ATTACHMENT was commercially
+available from James Morrison & Co. in the early 1870s; it sold for one
+dollar as stated in the advertising brochure from which this engraving
+was copied. Other inventors also patented similar implements.
+(Smithsonian photo 45513.)]
+
+The first patent for an attachment was issued in 1853 to Harry Sweet for
+a binder, used to stitch a special binding edge to the fabric. Other
+related attachments followed; among these were the hemmer which was
+similar to the binder, but turned the edge of the same piece of fabric
+to itself as the stitching was performed. Guides for stitching braid in
+any pattern, as directed by the movement of the goods below, were also
+developed; this was followed by the embroiderer, an elaborate form of
+braider. The first machine to stitch buttonholes was patented in 1854
+and the first buttonhole attachment in 1856, but the latter was not
+practical until improvements were made in the late 1860s. Special
+devices for refilling the bobbins were invented and patented as early as
+1862, and the popularity of tucked and ruffled garments inspired
+inventors to provide sewing-machine attachments for these purposes also.
+To keep the seamstress cool, C. D. Stewart patented an attachment for
+fanning the operator by an action derived from the treadle (fig. 65).
+While electric sewing machines did not become common until the 20th
+century, several 19th-century inventors considered the possibility of
+attaching a type of motor to the machine. One was the 1871 patent of
+Solomon Jones, who added an "electro motor" to an 1865 Bartlett machine
+(fig. 66). The attachments that were developed during the latter part of
+the 19th century numbered in the thousands; many of these were
+superfluous. Most of the basic ones in use today were developed by the
+1880s and remain almost unchanged. Even the recently popular home zigzag
+machine, an outgrowth of the buttonhole machine, was in commercial use
+by the 1870s.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 66.--JONES "ELECTRO MOTOR" PATENT MODEL of 1871 on
+a Bartlett sewing machine. (Smithsonian photo P-63104.)]
+
+Sewing-machine improvements have been made from time to time. Like other
+mechanical items the machine has become increasingly automatic, but the
+basic principles remain the same. One of the more recent developments,
+patented[84] in 1933 by Valentine Naftali et al., is for a manufacturing
+machine that imitates hand stitching. This machine uses a two-pointed
+"floating needle" that is passed completely through the fabric--the very
+idea that was attempted over one hundred years ago. The machine is
+currently used by commercial manufacturers to produce decorative
+edge-stitching that very closely resembles hand stitching.
+
+
+THREAD FOR THE MACHINE
+
+[Illustration: Figure 67.--SIX-CORD cabled thread.]
+
+The need for a good thread durable enough to withstand the action of
+machine stitching first created a problem and ultimately another new
+industry in this country. When the sewing machine was first developed
+the inventors necessarily had to use the sewing thread that was
+available. But, although the contemporary thread was quite suitable for
+hand sewing, it did not lend itself to the requirements of the machine.
+Cotton thread, then more commonly a three-ply variety, had a glazed
+finish and was wiry. Silk thread frequently broke owing to abrasion at
+the needle eye. For the most part linen thread was too coarse, or the
+fine variety was too expensive. All of the thread had imperfections that
+went unnoticed in the hands of a seamstress, but caused havoc in a
+machine. Quality silk thread that would withstand the rigors of machine
+stitching could be produced, but it was quite expensive also. A new type
+of inexpensive thread was needed; the obvious answer lay in improving
+the cotton thread.[85]
+
+In addition to the popular three-ply variety, cotton thread was also
+made by twisting together either two single yarns or more than three
+yarns. Increasing the number of yarns produced a more cylindrical
+thread. The earliest record of a six-ply cotton thread was about
+1840.[86] And in 1850 C. E. Bennett of Portsmouth, New Hampshire,
+received a gold medal for superior six-cord, or six-ply, spool cotton at
+the Fair of the American Institute. But the thread was still wiry and
+far from satisfactory. By the mid-1860s the demonstrated need for thread
+manufacturers in America brought George A. Clark and William Clark,
+third generation cotton-thread manufacturers of Paisley, Scotland, to
+Newark, New Jersey, where they built a large mill. George Clark decided
+that a thread having both a softer finish and a different construction
+was needed. He produced a six-cord cabled thread, made up of three
+two-ply yarns (see fig. 67). The thread was called "Clark's 'Our New
+Thread,'" which was later shortened to O.N.T. The basic machine-thread
+problem was solved. When other manufacturers used the six-cord cabled
+construction they referred to their thread as "Best Six-Cord"[87] or
+"Superior Six-Cord"[88] to distinguish it from the earlier variety made
+up of six single yarns in a simple twist. Another new side industry of
+the sewing machine was successfully established.
+
+
+MANUFACTURE AND EXPORT, TO 1900
+
+Sewing machines were a commodity in themselves, both at home and abroad.
+In 1850, there were no establishments exclusively devoted to the
+manufacture of sewing machines, the few constructed were made in small
+machine shops. The industry, however, experienced a very rapid growth
+during the next ten years. By 1860 there were 74 factories in 12
+States,[89] mainly in the East and Midwest,[90] producing over 111,000
+sewing machines a year. In addition, there were 14 factories that
+produced sewing-machine cases and attachments. The yearly value of these
+products was approximately four and a half million dollars, of which the
+amount exported in 1861 was $61,000. Although the number of
+sewing-machine factories dropped from 74 in 1860 to 69 by 1870, the
+value of the machines produced increased to almost sixteen million
+dollars.
+
+The number of sewing-machine companies fluctuated greatly from year to
+year as many attempted to enter this new field of manufacture. Some were
+not able to make a commercial success of their products. The Civil War
+did not seem to be an important factor in the number of companies in
+business in the North. Although one manufacturer ceased operations in
+Richmond, Virginia, and a Vermont firm converted to arms manufacture,
+several companies began operations during the war years. Of the 69 firms
+in business in 1870, only part had been in business since 1860 or
+before; some were quite new as a result of the expiration of the Howe
+patent renewal in 1867.
+
+Probably due to the termination of many of the major patents, there were
+124 factories in 1880, but the yearly product value remained at sixteen
+million dollars. The 1890 census reports only 66 factories with a yearly
+production of a little less than the earlier decade. But by 1900, the
+yearly production of a like number of factories had reached a value of
+over twenty-one million, of which four and a half million dollars worth
+were exported annually. The total value of American sewing machines
+exported from 1860 to 1900 was approximately ninety million dollars. The
+manufacture of sewing machines made a significant contribution to the
+economic development of 19th-century America.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[73] _Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures, Clothing_ (United States Census
+Office, published Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865).
+
+[74] _Eighty Years of Progress of the United States_ (New York, 1861),
+vol. 2, pp. 413-429.
+
+[75] GEORGE GIFFORD, "Argument of [George] Gifford in Favor of the Howe
+Application for Extension of Patent" (New York: United States Patent
+Office, 1860).
+
+[76] Op. cit. (footnote 34).
+
+[77] _Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures_ (United States Census Office,
+published Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865), "Women's
+Ready-Made Clothing," p. 83.
+
+[78] Ibid., p. 64.
+
+[79] National Archives, Record Group 92, Office of the Quartermaster
+General, Clothing Book, Letters Sent, volume 17.
+
+[80] The author wishes to acknowledge the valuable help of Mr. Donald
+Kloster of the Smithsonian Institution's Division of Military History
+for the preceding four references and related information.
+
+[81] Letter of Nov. 4, 1871, to Col. Theo. A. Dodge, USA (Ret.), Boston,
+from Quartermaster General M. C. Meigs, in the National Archives, Record
+Group 92, Quartermaster General's Office, Letters Sent, Clothing
+Supplies, 1871.
+
+[82] _Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900_, vol. 10,
+_Manufactures_, Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United
+States Census Office, Washington, D.C., 1902).
+
+[83] CHARLES M. KARCH, "Needles: Historical and Descriptive," in
+_Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900_, vol. 10, _Manufactures_,
+Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United States Census
+Office: Washington, D.C., 1902), pp. 429-432.
+
+[84] U.S. patent 1,931,447, issued to Valentine Naftali, Henry Naftali,
+and Rudolph Naftali, Oct. 17, 1933. The Naftali machines are
+manufactured by the American Machine and Foundry Company and are called
+AMF Stitching Machines.
+
+[85] See Appendix V, p. 135, "A Brief History of Cotton Thread."
+
+[86] _The Story of Cotton Thread_ (New York, The Spool Cotton Company,
+1933).
+
+[87] J. and P. Coats spool cotton.
+
+[88] Willimantic spool cotton.
+
+[89] New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut,
+New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Kentucky.
+_Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures_ (United States Census Office,
+published by Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865.)
+
+[90] Sewing-machine manufacture in the South was just beginning to
+blossom when it was curtailed by the outbreak of the Civil War. See
+Lester sewing machine, figure 109 on page 102.
+
+
+
+
+II. American Sewing-Machine Companies of the 19th Century
+
+
+During the latter half of the 19th century, there was a total of two
+hundred or more sewing-machine companies in the United States. Although
+a great many manufacturing-type machines were sold, this business was
+carried on by relatively few companies and most were primarily concerned
+with the family-type machines. A representative number of these family
+machines together with information concerning both the company and
+serial-number dating are found in figures 68 through 132. A great many
+of the companies were licensed by the "Combination," but, in addition,
+some companies were constructing machines that did not infringe the
+patents, other companies infringed the patents but managed to avoid
+legal action, and there were numerous companies that mushroomed into
+existence after the "Combination" was dissolved in 1877. Most of the
+latter were very short-lived. It is difficult to establish the exact
+dates of some of these companies as many of their records were
+incomplete or have since disappeared; even a great many of the
+"Combination" records were lost by fire. A summary of the existing
+records kept by the "Combination" is given in figure 37.
+
+As will be noted in the subsequent listing, only a small percentage of
+the companies were in business for a period longer than ten years; of
+those that continued longer, all but a few had disappeared by 1910.
+Today there are about sixty United States sewing-machine companies. Most
+of them manufacture highly specialized sewing machines used for specific
+types of commercial work; only a few produce family or home-style
+machines. Foreign competition has increased, and the high cost of
+skilled labor in this country has made competition in this
+consumer-product field increasingly difficult. The countless varieties
+of American family sewing machines, so evident in the 19th century, have
+passed away.
+
+                                                 First Made    Discontinued
+                       Manufacturer              or Earliest   or Last
+ Sewing Machine        or Company                Record        Record
+
+  Aetna                 Aetna Sewing Machine      ca. 1867      ca. 1877
+                        Co., Lowell, Mass.
+
+  Aiken and             ----, Ithaca, N.Y.        ca. 1855      before 1880
+   Felthousen
+
+  Alsop                 ----                      --            ca. 1880
+
+  American              American Sewing           1854          --
+                         Machine Co.
+
+  American Buttonhole,  American Buttonhole,      1869          ca. 1874
+   Overseaming and       Overseaming and
+   Sewing Machine        Sewing Machine Co.,
+   (fig. 68)             Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+    Later New           American Sewing           ca. 1874      ca. 1886
+     American           Machine Co.,
+     (fig. 69)          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  American Magnetic     American Magnetic         1853          1854
+   (fig. 70)             Sewing Machine
+                         Company, Ithaca, N.Y.
+
+  Atlantic (fig. 71)    ----                      1869          ca. 1870
+
+  Atwater (fig. 87)     ----                      1857          ca. 1860
+
+  Avery                 Avery Sewing Machine      1852          185-
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Avery                 Avery Manufacturing       1875          1886-1900
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  A. Bartholf Manfr.    A. Bartholf,              ca. 1850      185-
+    Blodgett & Lerow      manufacturer,
+    patent 1849           New York, N.Y.
+    (_see also_)
+
+  A. Bartholf Manfr.    A. Bartholf,              1853          ca. 1856
+    Howe's patent,        manufacturer,
+    1846 (fig. 72)        New York, N.Y.
+
+  Bartholf              A. Bartholf,              1857          1859
+                          manufacturer
+                        Bartholf Sewing           1859          ca. 1865
+                          Machine Co.
+
+  Bartlett (fig. 73)    Goodspeed & Wyman         1866          ca. 1870
+                        Bartlett Sewing Machine   ca. 1870      1872
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Baker                 ----                      --            before 1880
+
+  Bartram & Fanton      Bartram & Fanton Mfg.     1867          1874
+    (fig. 74)             Co., Danbury, Conn.
+
+  Bay State             ----                      --            before 1880
+
+  Beckwith (fig. 75)    Barlow & Son, New York,   1871          1872
+                          N.Y.
+                        Beckwith Sewing Machine   1872          ca. 1876
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Blees                 Blees Sewing Machine      1870          1873
+                          Co.
+
+  Blodgett & Lerow      O. Phelps, Boston,        1849          1849
+    (fig. 21)             Mass.
+                        Goddard, Rice & Co.,      1849          1850
+                          Worcester, Mass.
+    (fig. 20)           A. Bartholf,              1849          185-
+                          manufacturer, New
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Bond                  ----                      --            before 1880
+
+  Boston                J. F. Paul & Co.,         1880          --
+                          Boston, Mass.
+    Later New Boston    Boston Sewing Machine     --            after 1886
+                          Co., Boston, Mass.
+
+  Boudoir (fig. 76)     Daniel Harris,            1857          ca. 1870
+                          inventor and patentee
+                          Manufacturer--several
+
+  Bradford & Barber     Bradford & Barber,        1860          1861
+                          manufacturers,
+                          Boston, Mass.
+
+  Brattleboro           Samuel Barker and         ca. 1858      1861
+                          Thomas White,
+                          Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  Buckeye               Wilson [W.G.] Sewing      ca. 1867      ca. 1876
+    Later New Buckeye     Machine Company,
+    (fig. 77)             Cleveland, Ohio
+    (_see_ Wilson)
+
+  Buell, "E. T.         A. B. Buell,              ca. 1860      --
+    Lathbury's Patent"    Westmoreland, New York
+
+  Burnet & Broderick    Burnet, Broderick and     1859          ca. 1860
+                          Co.
+
+  Centennial            Centennial Sewing         1873          1876
+    (fig. 78)             Machine Co. (_see_
+                          McLean and Hooper),
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Chamberlain           Woolridge, Keene and      1853          ca. 1854
+                          Moore, Lynn, Mass.
+
+  Chicago Singer        Scates, Tryber &          1879          1882
+                          Sweetland Mfg. Co.,
+                          Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Later Chicago         Chicago Sewing Machine    1882          ca. 1885
+                           Co.
+
+  Chicopee
+    (_see_ Shaw & Clark)
+
+  Clark (fig. 42)       D. W. Clark,              ca. 1858      after 1860
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Clark's Revolving     Lamson, Goodnow & Yale,   1859          1861
+    Looper [double        Windsor, Vt.
+    thread] (fig. 79)
+      (_see_ Windsor)
+
+  Clinton               Clinton Brothers,         ca. 1861      ca. 1865
+                          Ithaca, N.Y.
+
+  Companion             Thurston Mfg. Co.,        1882          --
+                          Marlboro, N.H.
+
+  Crown                 Florence Sewing Machine   1879          after 1886
+      (_see_ Florence)    Co., Florence, Mass.
+
+  Dauntless (later      Dauntless Mfg. Co.,       1877          after 1882
+    New Dauntless)        Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Davis                 J.A. Davis, New York,     ca. 1860      --
+                          N.Y.
+      Davis Vertical    Davis Sewing Machine      1869          after 1886
+        Feed              Co., Watertown, N.Y.
+
+      Davis Vertical    Davis Sewing Machine      after 1886    1924
+        Feed and          Co., Dayton, Ohio
+        Rotary Shuttle
+
+  Decker (_also_ The    Decker Mfg. Co.,          --            before 1881
+    Princess)             Detroit, Mich.
+
+  Demorest              Demorest Mfg. Co          1882          1908
+                          (formerly N.Y.
+                          Sewing Machine Co.)
+
+  Diamond (formerly     Sigwalt Sewing Machine    1880          --
+    Sigwalt)              Co., Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Domestic              Wm. A. Mack & Co. and     1864          1869
+                          N. S. Perkins,
+                          Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Domestic              Domestic Sewing Machine   1869          [A]
+                          Co., Norwalk, Ohio,
+                          acquired by White
+                          Sewing Machine Co. in
+                          1924 and maintained
+                          as a subsidiary at
+                          Cleveland, Ohio.
+
+  Dorcas                John P. Bowker, Boston,   1853          185-
+                          Mass.
+
+  Du Laney (fig. 80)
+      Also called
+      Little Monitor
+      (_see_)
+
+  Durgin                Charles A. Durgin, New    1853          after 1855
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Eldredge              Eldredge Sewing Machine   1869          1890
+                          Co., Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Elliptic
+    Sloat's Elliptic    George B. Sloat and Co.,  ca. 1858      ca. 1860
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+    Sloat's Elliptic    Union Sewing Machine      1860          1861
+                          Co., Richmond, Va.
+
+    Elliptic            Wheeler & Wilson Mfg.     1861          ca. 1867
+                          Co.
+                        Elliptic Sewing           1867          before 1880
+                          Machine Co., N.Y.,
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Empire (fig. 86)      Empire Sewing Machine     ca. 1860      1869
+      Later               Co., Boston, Mass.
+      Remington-Empire
+
+  Empress               Manufactured on order     1877          --
+                          through Jerome B.
+                          Secor, Bridgeport,
+                          Conn.
+
+  Estey                 Estey Sewing Machine      ca. 1880      1882
+                          Co.
+      Estey,            Brattleboro Sewing        1883          after 1886
+      Fuller-Model        Machine Co.,
+                          Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  Eureka (fig. 81)      Eureka Shuttle Sewing     1859          --
+                          New York, N.Y.
+
+  Excelsior             Excelsior Sewing Machine  1854          1854
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Fairy (figs. 51, 52)  Madame Demorest, New      1863          ca. 1865
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Finkle, M. (fig. 82)  M. Finkle, Boston,        1856          ca. 1859
+                          Mass.
+      Finkle & Lyon     Finkle & Lyon Sewing      ca. 1859      1867
+                          Machine Co., Boston,
+                          Mass.
+      Later Victor
+
+  First and Frost       First and Frost, New      ca. 1859      ca. 1861
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Florence (fig. 83)    Florence Sewing Machine   ca. 1860      after 1878
+      Later Crown         Co., Florence, Mass.
+
+  Folsom                Folsom, J. G.,            1865          ca. 1871
+      (_see_ Globe and    Winchendon, Mass.
+      New England)
+
+  Fosket and Savage     Fosket and Savage,        1858          1859
+                          Meriden, Conn.
+
+  Foxboro               Foxboro Rotary Shuttle    ca. 1882      --
+                          Co., Foxboro, Mass.
+
+  Franklin              Franklin Sewing Machine   1871          1871
+                          Co., Mason
+                          Village, N.H.
+
+  Free                  Free Sewing Machine       1898          [A]
+                          Co., Chicago and
+                          Rockford, Ill.
+
+  Gardner               C. R. Gardner,            1856          --
+                          Detroit, Mich.
+
+  Globe (figs. 84, 85)  J. G. Folsom,             1865          1869
+                          Winchendon, Mass.
+
+  Gold Medal            Gold Medal Sewing         1863          1876
+    (chainstitch)         Machine Co., Orange,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Gold Medal            ----                      1863          ca. 1865
+    (running stitch)
+
+  Gold Hibbard          Hibbard, B. S., & Co.     1875          --
+
+  Goodbody (sewing      Goodbody Sewing Machine   1880          ca. 1890
+    shears)               Co., Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Goodes                Rex & Bockius,            ca. 1876      before 1881
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Goodrich              H. B. Goodrich, Chicago,  ca. 1880      ca. 1895
+                          Ill.
+
+  Grant Brothers        Grant Bros. & Co.,        1867          ca. 1870
+    (fig. 90)             Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Greenman and True     Greenman and True Mfg.    1859          1860
+    (fig. 91)             Co. Norwich, Conn.
+                        Morse and True            1860          1861
+
+  Green Mountain        ----                      ca. 1860      --
+
+  Griswold Variety      L. Griswold, New York,    ca. 1886      ca. 1890
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Grover and Baker      Grover and Baker Sewing   1851          1875
+    (figs. 34-36, 92)     Machine Co., Boston,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Hancock               ----                      1868          before 1881
+    (figs. 93, 94)
+
+  Heberling Running     John Heberling            1878          ca. 1885
+    Stitch
+
+  Herron's Patent       ----                      1857          --
+    (fig. 95)
+
+  Higby                 Higby Sewing Machine      ca. 1882      after 1886
+      Later Acme          Co., Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  Home                  Johnson, Clark & Co.,     1869          after 1876
+    Home Shuttle          Orange, Mass.
+
+  Homestead             ----                      ca. 1881      --
+
+  Household             Providence Tool Co.,      1880          ca. 1884
+                          Providence, R.I.
+                        Household Sewing          ca. 1885      1906
+                          Machine Co.
+
+  Howe (figs. 96, 97)   Howe Sewing Machine Co.,  1853          1873
+                          New York, N.Y.
+                          (company of A. B. Howe
+                          sold to Howe Machine
+                          Co.)
+
+  Howe (fig. 98)        Howe Machine Co.,         1867          1886
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Howe's Improved       Nichols and Bliss,        1852          1853
+    Patent (fig. 107)     Boston, Mass.
+                        J. B. Nichols & Co.       1853          1854
+      which became      Nichols, Leavitt & Co.,   1854          1856
+      Leavitt             Boston, Mass.
+
+  N. Hunt, which        N. Hunt & Co., Boston,    1853          1854
+    became Hunt and       Mass.
+    Webster (figs. 99,  Hunt and Webster,         1854          1857
+    100)                  Boston, Mass.
+      Later Ladd and
+      Webster (_see_)
+
+  Improved Common       ----                      ca. 1870      --
+    Sense (fig. 102)
+
+  Independent           Independent Sewing        1873          --
+    Noiseless             Machine Co.,
+                          Binghamton, N.Y.
+
+  Jennie June           June Mfg. Co., Chicago,   1881          1890
+                          Ill. Later
+                          Belvidere, Ill.
+
+  Jewel                 Jewel Mfg. Co., Toledo,   1884          after 1886
+                          Ohio
+
+  Johnson (fig. 103)    Emery, Houghton & Co.,    1856          after 1865
+                          Boston, Mass.
+
+  Keystone              Keystone Sewing Machine   before 1872   ca. 1874
+                          Co.
+
+  Ladd & Webster        Ladd, Webster & Co.,      1858          ca. 1866
+    (fig. 101)            Boston, Mass.
+
+  Ladies Companion      ----                      1858          ca. 1858
+    (fig. 115)
+    (_see_ Pratt's Patent)
+
+  "Lady" (fig. 104)     ----                      1859          --
+
+  Landfear's Patent     Parkers, Snow, Brooks     1857          --
+    (fig. 105)            & Co., West Meriden,
+                          Conn.
+
+  Langdon               L.W. Langdon              1856          --
+
+  Lathrop (fig. 106)    Lathrop Combination       1873          --
+                          Sewing Machine Co.
+
+  Leader                Leader Sewing Machine     1882          --
+                          Co., Springfield,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Leavitt (fig. 108)    Nichols, Leavitt & Co.,   1855          1857
+                          Boston, Mass.
+                        Leavitt & Co.             1857          ca. 1865
+                        Leavitt Sewing Machine    ca. 1865      1870
+                          Co.
+
+  Leslie Revolving      Leslie Sewing Machine     1881          --
+    Shuttle               Co., Cleveland, Ohio
+
+  Lester (fig. 109)     J.H. Lester, Brooklyn,    ca. 1858      early 1860
+                          N.Y.
+                        Lester Mfg. Co.,          early 1860    late 1860
+                          Richmond, Va.
+                        Union Sewing Machine      late 1860     1861
+                          Co., Richmond, Va.
+
+  Little Gem            ----                      --            ca. 1870
+
+  Little Giant          Domestic Sewing Machine   ca. 1882      --
+                          Co., Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Little Monitor (not   G.L. Du Laney, Brooklyn,  ca. 1866      after 1875
+    associated with       N.Y.
+    Monitor)
+
+  Love                  Love Mfg. Co.,            1885          after 1886
+                          Pittsburgh, Pa.
+
+  Lyon                  Lyon Sewing Machine Co.   1879          ca. 1880
+
+  Macauley              Thos. A. Macauley Mfg.,   before 1879   --
+                          New York, N.Y.
+
+  Manhattan             Manhattan Sewing Machine  ca. 1868      ca. 1880
+                          Co.
+
+  McKay                 McKay Sewing Machine      1870          1876
+                         Assoc.
+
+  McLean and Hooper     B. W. Lacy & Co.,         ca. 1869      ca. 1873
+                         Philadelphia, Pa.
+                          (_see_ Centennial)
+
+  Meyers                J. M. Meyers              1859          --
+
+  Miller's Patent       ----                      1853          --
+
+  Monitor (fig. 88)     Shaw & Clark Sewing       1860          1864
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Biddeford, Me.
+
+  Moore                 Moore Sewing Machine      ca. 1860      --
+                          Co.
+
+  Morey & Johnson       Safford & Williams        1849          ca. 1851
+    (fig. 18)             Makers, Boston,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Morrison              Morrison, Wilkinson &     1881          --
+                          Co., Hartford, Conn.
+
+  Mower                 ----                      ca. 1863      --
+
+  National              Johnson, Clark & Co.,     1874          --
+                          Orange, Mass.
+
+  National (also sold   National Sewing Machine   1890          1953
+  under distributor's     Co. (consolidation of
+  name)                   the June and Eldredge
+                          Companies), Belvidere,
+                          Ill.
+
+  Ne Plus Ultra         O. L. Reynolds            1857          --
+    (fig. 110)            Manufacturing Co.,
+                          Dover, N.H.
+
+  Nettleton & Raymond   Nettleton & Raymond,      ca. 1857      --
+  (fig. 111)              Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  New England           Charles Raymond (also     ca. 1859      1866
+    (figs. 112, 113)      by: Grout & White,      1862          1863
+                          Orange, Mass.; William  1863          --
+                          Grout, Winchendon,      1865          1865
+                          Mass.; and J. G. Folsom,
+                          Winchendon, Mass.)
+
+  Newell                ----                      1881          --
+
+  New Fairbanks         J. H. Drew & Co.          1878          1880
+                          Thomas M. Cochrane      1880          --
+                          Co., Belleville, Ill.
+
+  New Home              New Home Sewing Machine   1876          [A]
+                          Co., Orange, Mass. (in
+                          1928 became affiliated
+                          with Free Sewing
+                          Machine Co.)
+
+  New York              ----, New York, N.Y.      ca. 1855      ca. 1855
+
+  New York Shuttle      N.Y. Sewing Machine Co.,  before 1880   1882
+                          New York, N.Y. (later
+                          Demorest Mfg. Co.)
+
+  Noble                 Noble Sewing Machine      before 1881   after 1886
+                          Co., Erie, Pa.
+
+  Novelty               C. A. French, Boston,     1869          --
+                          Mass.
+
+  Old Dominion          Old Dominion Sewing       ca. 1858      1860
+                          Machine Co., Richmond,
+                          Va.
+
+  Pardox                ----                      ca. 1865      --
+
+  Parham                Parham Sewing Machine     ca. 1869      ca. 1871
+                          Co., Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Parker                Charles Parker Co.,       before 1860   after 1865
+                          Meriden, Conn.
+                            Later Parker Sewing
+                            Machine Co.
+
+  Pearl                 ---- Bennett              ca. 1859      --
+
+  Philadelphia          Philadelphia Sewing       ca. 1872      ca. 1881
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Post Combination      Post Combination Sewing   before 1885   after 1886
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Washington, D.C.
+
+  Pratt's Patent        ----                      1857          ca. 1858
+  (fig. 114)  Later
+  Ladies Companion
+
+  Queen                 Dauntless Mfg Co.,        ca. 1881      --
+                          Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Quaker City           Quaker City Sewing        1859          ca. 1861
+  (fig. 116)              Machine Co.,
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Remington Empire      Remington Empire Sewing   1870          1872
+  Later Remington         Machine Co.
+                        E. Remington & Sons,      1873          ca. 1894
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Robertson (dolphin    T. W. Robertson, New      1855          after 1860
+    & cherub) (figs.      York, N.Y.
+    40, 41)
+
+  Robinson              F. R. Robinson, Boston,   1853          ca. 1855
+                          Mass.
+
+  Robinson's patent     Howard & Davis, Boston,   1855          --
+    sewing machine        Mass.
+    with Roper's
+    improvement (fig. 117)
+      Later Robinson    same                      1856          before 1860
+      and Roper
+      (fig. 118)
+
+  Royal St. John        Royal Sewing Machine      ca. 1883      1898
+  (formerly St. John)     Co., Springfield, Ohio
+                          (later Free Co.)
+
+  Ruddick               ----                      ca. 1860      --
+
+  Secor                 Secor Machine Co.,        1870          1876
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Sewing Shears         Nettleton & Raymond,      ca. 1859      --
+  (Hendrick's patent)     Bristol, Conn.
+  (fig. 43)
+
+  Sewing Shears         American Hand Sewing      ca. 1884      ca. 1900
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Shaw & Clark          Shaw & Clark Co.,         ca. 1857      1866
+    Running Stitch        Biddeford, Me.
+    Machine (fig. 53)
+
+    Chainstitch
+    Machine (fig. 119)
+
+    Chainstitch         Shaw & Clark Co.,         1867          1868
+    Machine (fig. 120)    Chicopee Falls, Mass.
+                        Chicopee Sewing Machine   1868          ca. 1869
+                          Co., Chicopee Falls,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Sigwalt               Sigwalt Sewing Machine    ca. 1879      --
+                           Co., Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Singer (figs. 28,     I. M. Singer & Co.        1851          [A]
+    29, 30, 32, 33,       (later Singer Mfg. Co.).
+    121, 122)             Moved  from Boston to
+                          New York  to
+                          Elizabethport, N.J.
+                          (factory).
+
+  Springfield           Springfield Sewing        1880          --
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Springfield, Mass.
+
+  Standard              ----                      1870          --
+    (chainstitch)
+    (fig. 123)
+      Standard          Standard Shuttle Sewing   1874          ca. 1881
+      (shuttle)           Machine Co., New York,
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Standard              Standard Sewing Machine   1884          ca. 1930
+                          Co., Cleveland, Ohio
+                          (acquired by Singer Co.)
+
+  Stewart               Henry Stewart & Co.,      1874          1880
+                          N.Y., N.Y.
+      Later New         Stewart Mfg Co.           1880          ca. 1883
+      Stewart
+
+  St. John (later       St. John Sewing Machine   1870          ca. 1883
+    Royal St. John)       Co., Springfield, O.
+
+  Taggart & Farr        Taggart & Farr,           1858          --
+    (figs. 124, 125)      Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Thompson              C. F. Thompson Co.        1871          1871
+                        T. C. Thompson, Ithaca,   ca. 1854      --
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Union                 Johnson, Clark & Co.,     1876          --
+                          Orange, Mass.
+
+  Victor                Finkle & Lyon Mfg. Co.    1867          ca. 1872
+                        Victor Sewing Machine     ca. 1872      ca. 1890
+                          Co., Middletown, Conn.
+
+  Wardwell              Wardwell Mfg. Co., St.    ca. 1876      1890
+                          Louis, Mo.
+
+  Watson (fig. 126)     Jones & Lee               1850          ca. 1853
+                        Watson & Wooster,         ca. 1853      ca. 1860
+                          Bristol, Conn.
+
+  Waterbury             Waterbury Co.,            1853          ca. 1860
+                          Waterbury, Conn.
+
+  Weed                  T. E. Weed & Co. (became  1854          --
+                          Whitney & Lyons)
+
+  Weed                  Weed Sewing Machine Co.   1865          --
+                          (reorganized from
+                          Whitney & Lyons),
+                          Hartford, Conn.
+
+    Family Favorite                               1867          --
+    Manu. Favorite                                1868          --
+    General Favorite                              1872          --
+    Hartford                                      1881          ca. 1900
+
+  Wesson                Farmer & Gardner          1879          1880
+                          Manufacturing Co.
+                        D. B. Wesson Sewing       1880          --
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Springfield, Mass.
+
+  West & Willson        West & Willson Co.,       1858          --
+    (fig. 127)             Elyria, Ohio
+
+  A. B. Wilson          E. E. Lee & Co., New      1851          1852
+    (fig. 23)             York, N.Y.
+
+  A. B. Wilson's        Wheeler, Wilson, Co.,     late 1851     1856
+    patent seaming        Watertown, N.Y.
+    lathe
+      Later Wheeler     Wheeler & Wilson Mfg.     1856          1905
+      and Wilson          Co., Bridgeport, Conn.
+      (fig. 26, 27,     Singer Co., Bridgeport,   1905          1907
+      128, 129)            Conn.
+
+  White (fig. 130)      White Sewing Machine      1876          [A]
+                          Co., Cleveland, Ohio
+
+  Whitehill             Whitehill Mfg. Co.,       ca. 1875      after 1886
+                         Milwaukee, Wis.
+
+  Whitney               Whitney Sewing Machine    ca. 1872      ca. 1880
+                         Co., Paterson, N.J.
+
+  Whitney & Lyons       Whitney & Lyons (a        ca. 1859      ca. 1865
+                          machine based on the
+                          1854 patent of T. E.
+                          Weed)
+
+  Wickersham            Butterfield & Stevens     1853          --
+                          Mfg. Co., Boston, Mass.
+
+  Willcox & Gibbs       Willcox & Gibbs Sewing    1857          [A]
+    (figs. 39, 131)       Machine Co., New York,
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Williams & Orvis      Williams & Orvis Sewing   ca. 1859      after 1860
+                          Machine Co., Boston,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Wilson (fig. 89)      Wilson (W.G.) Sewing      ca.1867       after 1885
+      (_see_ Buckeye)     Machine Co., Cleveland,
+                          Ohio
+
+  Windsor (one thread)  Vermont Arms Co.,         1856          1858
+                          Windsor, Vt.
+
+  Windsor               Lamson, Goodnow & Yale,   1859          1861
+      (_see_ Clark's      Windsor, Vt.
+      Revolving Looper)
+
+  Name Unknown          John W. Beane             1853          --
+
+       "                Henry Brind               1860          --
+
+       "                Garfield Sewing Machine   1881          --
+                          Co.
+
+       "                Geneva Sewing Machine     1880          --
+                          Co.
+
+       "                Gove & Howard             1855          --
+
+       "                Charles W. Howland,       ca. 1860      --
+                          Wilmington, Del.
+
+       "                Miles Greenwood & Co.,    ca. 1861      --
+                          Cincinnati, Ohio
+
+       "                Hood, Batelle & Co.       1854          1854
+
+       "                Wells & Haynes            1854          1854
+
+       "                Wilson H. Smith,          ca. 1860      --
+                          Birmingham, Conn.
+
+[A] Still in existence.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 68.--AMERICAN BUTTONHOLE, Overseaming & Sewing Machine of about
+1870. Using serial numbers, these machines can be dated approximately as
+follows: 1-7792, 1869; 7793-22366, 1870; 22367-42488, 1871; 42489-61419,
+1872; 61420-75602, 1873; 75603-89132, 1874; 89133-103539, 1875; and
+103540-121477, 1876. Figures are not available for the years from 1877
+to 1886. (Smithsonian photo 46953-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 69.--(NEW) AMERICAN SEWING MACHINE of about 1874.
+Illustration is from a contemporary advertising brochure. (Smithsonian
+photo 33507.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 70.--AMERICAN MAGNETIC SEWING MACHINE, 1854.
+Machines of this type were manufactured for only two years under the
+patent of Thomas C. Thompson, March 29, 1853, and later under the
+patents of Samuel J. Parker, April 11, 1854, and Simon Coon, May 9,
+1854. On September 30, 1853, Elias Howe listed receipts of $1000 from
+the American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co. for patent infringement. The
+machines manufactured after that date carry the Howe name and 1846
+patent date to show proper licensing. Judging by Howe's usual license
+fee of $25 per machine, about 40 machines were manufactured prior to
+September 1853. The company was reported to have made about 600 machines
+in 1854 before it went out of business. The only American Magnetic
+machine known to be in existence is in the collection of the Northern
+Indiana Historical Society at South Bend, Indiana. (_Photo courtesy of
+the Northern Indiana Historical Society._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 71.--ATLANTIC SEWING MACHINE, 1869. This machine
+is typical of the many varieties manufactured for a very short time in
+the 1860s and 1870s. It is about the size of the average hand-turned
+variety, 8 by 10 inches, but lighter in weight. The frame design was the
+patent of L. Porter, May 11, 1869, and the mechanism was patented by
+Alonzo Porter, February 8, 1870. The latter patent model bears the
+painted legend "Atlantic" and is stamped "Aprl 1, 69," indicating that
+it was probably already in commercial production. This date possibly may
+refer also to L. Porter's design patent, since actual date of issue was
+usually later than date of application. (Smithsonian photo 48329-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 72.--A. BARTHOLF SEWING MACHINE, 1853. Abraham
+Bartholf of New York began manufacturing Blodgett & Lerow machines (see
+fig. 20) about 1850; the style and mechanics of these machines, however,
+were primarily those of the Blodgett & Lerow patent as manufactured by
+O. C. Phelps and Goddard, Rice & Co. For this reason they are considered
+Blodgett & Lerow--not Bartholf--machines.
+
+The true Bartholf machine evolved when the manufacturer substituted
+Howe's reciprocating shuttle for the rotary shuttle of the Blodgett &
+Lerow machine, continuing to manufacture the machine in his own adapted
+style. Bartholf manufactured reciprocating-shuttle machines as early as
+1853, and his was one of the first companies licensed by Howe.
+
+All Bartholf machines licensed under Howe's patent carry the Howe name
+and patent date. They are sometimes mistakenly referred to as Howe
+machines, but they are no more Howe machines than those manufactured by
+Wheeler & Wilson, Singer, or many others.
+
+On April 6, 1858, Bartholf was granted a patent for an improvement of
+the shuttle carrier. He continued to manufacture sewing machines under
+the name "Bartholf Sewing Machine Co." until about 1865.
+
+Using serial numbers, Bartholf machines can be dated approximately as
+follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_ _Year_
+
+  1-20             1850
+  21-50            1851
+  51-100           1852
+  101-235          1853
+  236-290          1854
+  291-321          1855
+  322-356          1856
+  357-387          1857
+  388-590          1858
+  591-1337         1859
+
+No record of the number of machines produced by Bartholf after 1859 is
+available.
+
+The Bartholf machine illustrated bears the serial number 128 and the
+inscription "A. Bartholf Manfr., NY--Patented Sept. 1846 E. Howe, Jr."
+This machine is in the collection of the Baltimore County Historical
+Society. Note the close similarity between it and the 1850 Blodgett &
+Lerow machine manufactured by Bartholf. (_Photo courtesy of the
+Baltimore County Historical Society._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 73.--BARTLETT SEWING MACHINE, 1867. The Bartlett
+machine was first manufactured in 1866 under the January 31, 1865, and
+October 10, 1865, patents of Joseph W. Bartlett. The machines were made
+by Goodspeed & Wyman for the Bartlett Co. and were so marked. The
+inventor received another patent on April 7, 1868, and later machines
+carry this third date also. Although the first few hundred machines did
+not bear the dates of patents held by the "Combination," before the end
+of the first year of production Bartlett was paying royalties. He
+continued to manufacture sewing machines until the early seventies when
+he converted to the manufacturing of street lamps.
+
+Using serial numbers, Bartlett's machines can be dated approximately as
+follows: 1-1000, 1866; 1001-3126, 1867; 3127-?, 1868. There is no record
+of serial numbers for the succeeding years. (Smithsonian photo
+45524-G.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 74.--BARTRAM & FANTON SEWING MACHINE, 1867. These
+machines were first manufactured in 1867 under the patents of W. B.
+Bartram, notably his patent of January 1, 1867. Three machines were
+exhibited at The Eleventh Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association in 1869 where they were awarded a bronze medal.
+They were compared favorably to the Willcox & Gibbs machine (see fig.
+39), which they resembled. Bartram received additional patents in the
+early seventies and also manufactured lockstitch machines.
+
+Using serial numbers, machines may be approximately dated as follows:
+1-2958, 1867; 2959-3958, 1868; 3959-4958, 1869; 4959-5958, 1870;
+5959-6962, 1871; 6963-7961, 1872; 7962-8961, 1873; and 8962-9211, 1874.
+(Smithsonian photo P63198.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 75.--BECKWITH SEWING MACHINE, 1871. Among the
+inventors whose patent claims were "to produce a cheap and effective
+sewing machine" was William G. Beckwith. His machine was first
+manufactured by Barlow & Son, and it realized considerable success in
+the few years of its production. The earliest model was operated like a
+pair of scissors or with a cord and ring as illustrated. Beckwith later
+added a hand crank. The machine was purchased in Crewe, Cheshire,
+England; it is stamped "Pat. April 18, 71 by Wm. G. Beckwith, Foreign
+Pats. Secured, Barlow & Son Manuf. N.Y., [serial number] 706." By 1874
+the machines were marked "Beckwith S.M. Co." and two 1872 patent dates
+were added.
+
+Using serial numbers, machines may be dated approximately as follows:
+1-3500, 1871; 3501-7500, 1872; 7501-12500, 1873; 12501-18000, 1874;
+18001-23000, 1875; 23001-?, 1876. (Smithsonian photo 46953-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 76.--BOUDOIR SEWING MACHINE, 1858. This machine, a
+single-thread, chainstitch model was based on the patents of Daniel
+Harris, dated June 9, 1857, June 16, 1857, and October 5, 1858.
+Manufactured primarily by Bennett in Chicago in 1859, it also may have
+been produced in the East, although no manufacturer's name can be found.
+
+In 1860, the Boudoir, also called Harris's Patent sewing machine, was
+exhibited at the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association
+Exhibition where it won a silver medal for "its combination of parts,
+its beauty and simplicity, together with its ease of operation." At this
+time the machine was described as making a "double lock stitch" (another
+name for the double chainstitch). It was also described as having been
+before the public for some time and combining "the improvements of
+others for which the parties pay license." The machine head was
+positioned on the stand similarly to that of the West & Willson (fig.
+127) and stitched from left to right.
+
+It is not known exactly how many of these machines were made or how long
+they were in vogue. Manufacture, although probably ceasing in the 1860s,
+is known to have been discontinued before 1881, when a list of obsolete
+sewing machines was published in _The Sewing Machine News_. (Smithsonian
+photo P63199.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 77.--(NEW) BUCKEYE SEWING MACHINE of about 1875.
+The Buckeye machine was one of several manufactured by W. G. Wilson of
+Cleveland, Ohio. It was licensed under Johnson's extended patent of
+April 18, 1867. Although it was small and hand turned, it used two
+threads and a shuttle to form a lockstitch. The machine was sufficiently
+popular for Wilson to introduce an improved model in the early 1870s,
+which he called the New Buckeye. W. G. Wilson continued to manufacture
+sewing machines until about the mid-eighties, although the Buckeye
+machines were discontinued in the seventies. (Smithsonian photo
+45524-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 78.--CENTENNIAL SEWING MACHINE, 1876. The
+Centennial machine was basically a McLean and Hooper sewing machine
+which was renamed to take advantage of the coming Centennial
+celebration. It was based on the patents of J. N. McLean, March 30,
+1869, and August 2, 1870, and made a two-thread chainstitch. Only about
+five hundred Centennial machines were manufactured in 1873, but by 1876
+over three thousand had been constructed. The machines were advertised
+on white circulars which were printed in red and blue, and engraved with
+two women sewing, one by hand, labeled "Sewing in 1776," and one at a
+Centennial sewing machine, labeled "Sewing in 1876." There is no record
+that the machines were made after 1876. (Smithsonian photo 48216-T.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 79.--CLARK'S Revolving-Looper double-thread sewing
+machine, 1860. This machine was manufactured by Lamson, Goodnow, & Yale
+of Windsor, Vermont. It was an attempt to improve on the combined ideas
+of the Grover and Baker machine, the Nettleton & Raymond machine, and
+the earlier single-thread Windsor machine. The improvements were made
+and patented by Edwin Clark on December 6, 1859. Widely advertised, the
+machines sold for $35 with a foot-power table. They could also be
+operated by hand. Over three thousand were manufactured and sold, and
+preparations were being made to continue manufacture of the earlier
+single-thread Windsor, originally made by the company's predecessor,
+Vermont Arms Co., when the Civil War broke out. A flood of arms orders
+arrived, and the sewing-machine manufacture was discontinued early in
+the summer of 1861. The sewing-machine equipment and business was sold
+to Grout & White of Massachusetts. (Smithsonian photo 48216.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 80.--DU LANEY SEWING MACHINE of about 1872. Most
+of the small, simple, chainstitch sewing machines of this period were
+constructed so that they could either be turned by hand or set into a
+treadle-powered table. Du Laney's Little Monitor, manufactured for only
+a few years, was based on the patents of G.L. Du Laney, July 3, 1866,
+and May 2, 1871. It was a two-thread, chainstitch machine powered only
+by a foot treadle. By simple adjustment, the machine could also make the
+cablestitch and the lockstitch. (Smithsonian photo 48221-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 81.--EUREKA SEWING MACHINE, 1859. An example of
+the many short-lived types of which no written record can be found, this
+particular machine was used as a patent model for certain minor
+improvements in 1859. It has the name "Eureka" painted on the top and
+the following inscription incised on the baster plate: "Eureka Shuttle
+S. M. Co. 469 Broadway, N.Y." Although it is a shuttle machine, it
+carries no patent dates and was not included in the Howe royalty
+records. Neither is it listed in the obsolescence list published in
+1881. The company probably could not pay its royalty fees and was forced
+out of business almost immediately. If this machine had not been used as
+a patent model, no record of the company's existence might remain. It
+should be noted that as in most shuttle machines the head was meant to
+be set into a treadle-powered table. Since most tables are very similar,
+they are not required for identification. (Smithsonian photo 48328-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 82.--M. FINKLE SEWING MACHINE, 1857. The M. Finkle
+machines were manufactured in 1856 and 1857. Sometime before or about
+1859, the inventor, Milton Finkle, formed a partnership and the machines
+were subsequently called M. Finkle & Lyon and later simply Finkle &
+Lyon. In 1859 the machine was awarded a silver medal by the American
+Institute for producing superior manufacturing and family lockstitch
+sewing machines. It also won a silver medal in Boston in 1860 at the
+Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association Exhibition. Although the
+name of the machine was changed to Victor in 1867, the company name
+remained Finkle & Lyon until about 1872 when it was changed to Victor
+also. Victor machines were manufactured until about 1890.
+
+Machines can be dated by their serial number approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_ _Year_
+
+  1-200            1856
+  201-450          1857
+  451-700          1858
+  701-950          1859
+  951-1500         1860
+  1501-3000        1861
+  3001-5000        1862
+  5001-7000        1863
+  7001-9000        1864
+  9001-11000       1865
+  11001-13000      1866
+  13001-15490      1867
+  15491-17490      1868
+  17491-18830      1869
+  18831-21250      1870
+  21251-28890      1871
+  28891-40790      1872
+  40791-48240      1873
+  48241-53530      1874
+  53531-59635      1875
+  59636-65385      1876
+
+No estimates are available for the years 1877 to 1890. (Smithsonian
+photo 48216-A.)]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+<----
+
+[Illustration: Figure 83.--FLORENCE SEWING MACHINE. The Florence machine
+was based on the patents of Leander W. Langdon, whose first patent was
+obtained in 1855. Langdon sewing machines were manufactured by the
+inventor for a few years. It was his patent of March 20, 1860, that was
+the immediate forerunner of the Florence machine, whose name was derived
+from the city of manufacture, Florence, Massachusetts. The Howe royalty
+records of 1860 listed the Florence Sewing Machine Co. as one that took
+out a license that year. Langdon's patent of July 14, 1863, was
+incorporated into the machines manufactured after that date; however,
+the date is always incorrectly stamped "July 18, 1863." In 1865, the
+machine won a silver medal at the Tenth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association.
+
+Over 100,000 Florence machines were manufactured by 1870. About 1880 the
+company changed the name of the machine to Crown. Improvements led to
+the name New Crown by 1885. About this time the right to use the name
+Florence for a sewing machine was purchased by a midwestern firm for an
+entirely different machine. In 1885 the Florence company began to
+manufacture lamp stoves and heating stoves and shortly thereafter they
+discontinued the manufacture of sewing machines.
+
+Using the serial numbers, Florence machines can be dated approximately
+as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-500                1860
+  501-2000             1861
+  2001-8000            1862
+  8001-20000           1863
+  20001-35000          1864
+  35001-50000          1865
+  50001-60000          1866
+  60001-70534          1867
+  70535-82534          1868
+  82535-96195          1869
+  96196-113855         1870
+  113856-129802        1871
+  129803-145592        1872
+  145593-154555        1873
+  154556-160072        1874
+  160073-164964        1875
+  164965-167942        1876
+
+No record of the number of machines produced each year between 1877 and
+1885 is available.
+
+The machine shown here, serial number 49131, was manufactured in 1865.
+It is stamped with the following patent dates: "Oct. 30, 1855, Mar. 20,
+1860, Jan. 22, 1861, and July 18, 1863" and the Wilson patent date "Nov.
+12, 1850." The machines from 1860-1863 are marked with the early Langdon
+patents, excluding the 1863 one, and they have the additional patent
+dates of Howe and others: "Sept. 10, 1846, Nov. 12, 1850, Aug. 12, 1851,
+May 30, 1854, Dec. 19, 1854, Nov. 4, 1856." (Smithsonian photo
+45572-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 84.--GLOBE SEWING MACHINE. J. G. Folsom received
+two design patents in 1864, one on March 1 for a spool holder and one on
+May 17 for the basic style of the machine. Also in the same year, he was
+awarded a mechanical patent for an adjustment in the lower looper that
+would accommodate a change in needle size. Using these patents, he
+manufactured a single-thread, chainstitch machine, the Globe. Folsom
+also exhibited his machines at the Tenth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association in 1865. The Globe attracted particular
+attention and was awarded a silver medal.]
+
+In 1866 Folsom devised a new treadle attachment for hand-operated
+machines; the invention was featured in _Scientific American_, volume
+14, number 17, with a Globe machine. Folsom again exhibited at the
+Massachusetts Mechanics exhibition in 1869. In addition to an improved
+single-thread Globe, he also showed a double-thread, elastic-stitch
+(double chainstitch) machine for which he received a silver medal.
+
+Folsom machines were manufactured until 1871; 280 machines were
+manufactured in that year.
+
+The Globe sewing machine illustrated is stamped "J. G. Folsom, Maker,
+Winchendon, Mass. Patented April 28, 1863 [Ketchum's patent], Mar. 1,
+1864. May 17, 1864." The machine was manufactured before November 1864
+or it would include the patent for the lower loop adjustment.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-H.)
+
+NOTE: At least five sewing machines, those in figures 84 through 89, are
+similar enough in appearance to cause some confusion, because their
+basic design stems from a short pillar.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 85.--GLOBE SEWING MACHINE with treadle attachment
+as illustrated in _Scientific American_, April 21, 1866. (Smithsonian
+photo 48221-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 86.--EMPIRE SEWING MACHINE, late 1860s. Although
+an Empire Sewing Machine Co. existed in New York in the 1860s (the
+predecessor of the Remington-Empire Co.), it is not known whether this
+machine was manufactured by that same company, which was primarily
+concerned with producing shuttle machines. This chainstitch machine is
+marked "Empire Co., Patented April 23, 1863," the date referring again
+to Ketchum's patent. It is very similar to Folsom's Globe, except that
+it has claw feet rather than a closed base; the painted designs on the
+base of both are almost identical to those on the Monitor. Its spool
+holder, mounted in reverse, is a crude imitation of the Folsom patent.
+The Empire machines were probably manufactured about the same time as
+the Wilson machine. (_Photo courtesy of The Henry Ford Museum and
+Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 87.--ATWATER SEWING MACHINE, 1858. Atwater
+machines, based on the patent of B. Atwater, issued May 5, 1857, were
+manufactured from 1857 to about 1860. The machine illustrated, which is
+designed to be operated by a hand-turned wheel, has an upper forked dog
+feed, and its horizontally supported spool is directly over the
+stitching area. Like the others, it has a striated pillar and claw feet.
+The manufacturer is unknown. (Smithsonian photo P63200.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 88.--MONITOR SEWING MACHINE, 1860-1866. The
+Monitor machines of this style were not marked by their manufacturers,
+Shaw & Clark of Biddeford, Maine. Later the company was forced by the
+"Combination" to pay a royalty, so it changed the style and began
+marking its machines with the company name and patent dates (see fig.
+119 for copy of seal). The Monitor, which employed the conventional
+vertical spindle to hold the spool of thread, had a top feed in the form
+of a walking presser. Its striated pillar was similar to that of the
+Atwater machine, and both featured the same claw feet and urn-like top.
+Unlike the Atwater, however, the Monitor had a double drive from the
+hand-turned wheel, which was grooved for operation with belt and
+treadle. (Smithsonian photo 33458.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 89.--WILSON SEWING MACHINE, late 1860s to early
+1870s. In addition to the Buckeye (see fig. 77), W. G. Wilson
+manufactured several other styles of sewing machines. This one, a
+combination of the varying styles of the earlier pillar machine has even
+duplicated the general style of the spool holder patented by Folsom. The
+pillar is not striated, but the machine does repeat the claw feet of the
+Atwater and Monitor machines. Wilson machines are usually marked "Wilson
+Sewing Mach. Manuf'g Co. Cleveland, Ohio, Ketchum's Patent April 28,
+1863." The latter name and/or patent date are found on many of the
+machines of this general construction. The patent is that issued to
+Stephen C. Ketchum for his method of converting rotary motion into
+reciprocal motion. (_Photo courtesy of The Henry Ford Museum and
+Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 90.--GRANT BROTHERS SEWING MACHINE, 1867. This
+machine was one of several styles that utilized Raymond's 1861 patented
+chainstitch method. This machine, however, used an under feed rather
+than a top feed.
+
+Neither a name nor a date appears on the machine. In the June 25, 1907,
+issue of the _Sewing Machine Times_ it was called the Common Sense
+machine, but detailed research has turned up no evidence to substantiate
+this name. However, a dated brochure advertising the Grant Brothers
+machine and showing a model identical to that illustrated in the _Sewing
+Machine Times_ has been found. The brochure states that the machine made
+an elastic lockstitch; this was not a true lockstitch, however, but was
+in fact a simple chainstitch.
+
+Grant Brothers sold their machine, which had silver-plated mountings,
+for $18; the price included hemmer, Barnum's self-sewer, oilcan,
+screwdriver, clamp, gauge, and four silver needles. An additional charge
+of $12 was made for a table and treadle. Compared to other chainstitch
+machines the price was high, and the company was short-lived.
+(Smithsonian photo 60794-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 91.--GREENMAN AND TRUE SEWING MACHINE. This
+lockstitch machine based on S. H. Roper's patent of 1857 was
+manufactured at Norwich, Connecticut, from 1859 to 1861 by Cyrus B.
+True, the inventor, and Jared F. Greenman, True's financial partner.
+Licensed by the "Combination" and carrying the Howe patent date, the
+machine had obvious merit: it was strong, well made--a good family
+machine. Exhibited at the Ninth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association in September 1860, it received a bronze
+medal. (At this time the company was listed as Morse and True--the
+inventor had obviously taken on a second financial backer.)
+Unfortunately, the best market for the machine lay in the South, and the
+outbreak of the Civil War made collections impossible. This greatly
+retarded business and finally drove the firm into bankruptcy. In all, it
+is doubtful that more than one thousand machines were produced in the
+three years of manufacture.
+
+The machine illustrated is marked "Greenman and True" and bears the
+serial number 402; it was probably manufactured early in 1860.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-N.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 92.--GROVER AND BAKER SEWING MACHINE. The Grover
+and Baker machine was one of the more popular machines from the 1850s
+until the early 1870s. The company produced iron-frame machines, fine
+cabinet models, and portables (figs. 35 and 36). Their machines may be
+dated by serial number approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-500                1851
+  501-1000             1852
+  1001-1658            1853
+  1659-3893            1854
+  3894-5038            1855
+  5039-7000            1856
+  7001-10681           1857
+  10682-15752          1858
+  15753-26033          1859
+  26034-44869          1860
+  44870-63705          1861
+  63706-82641          1862
+  82642-101477         1863
+  101478-120313        1864
+  120314-139148        1865
+  139149-157886        1866
+  157887-190886        1867
+  190887-225886        1868
+  225887-261004        1869
+  261005-338407        1870
+  338408-389246        1871
+  389247-441257        1872
+  441258-477437        1873
+  477438-497438        1874
+  497439-512439        1875
+
+(Smithsonian photo 45513-B, an engraving of a Grover and Baker sewing
+machine from an advertising brochure of about 1870.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 93.--HANCOCK SEWING MACHINE, 1867. One of the many
+inventors who turned his talents to inventing and producing a
+mechanically simple and cheaper machine was Henry J. Hancock. His 1867
+machine is only about six inches wide; it uses a tambour-type needle,
+pulling a loop of thread from below the stitching surface. (Smithsonian
+photo P63197.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 94.--HANCOCK SEWING MACHINE, 1868. Hancock in 1868
+received both a design patent and a mechanical patent now using the
+eye-pointed needle and a hook to form the chainstitch. The design was an
+open framework circle with a mirror mounted in front of the table clamp.
+The purpose of the designated "looking glass" was decorative only. The
+Hancock machines were only manufactured for a few years. They measure
+10-1/2 inches in width, slightly larger than the earlier machine.
+(Smithsonian photo 48328-M.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 95.--[A.C.] HERRON'S PATENT SEWING MACHINE, 1858.
+The manufacturer of this machine is not known, but the machine was based
+on the patent of Abial C. Herron issued August 4, 1857. All the machines
+carry a small heart-shaped plate just above the needle descent bearing
+the patentee's name and the patent date. The patent covered an
+improvement in the method of making the chainstitch. The machines were
+provided with a hand crank, but were also meant to be operated by a belt
+and treadle. No records of the extent of manufacture of this machine
+have been found. This machine head measures 14 inches in width, about
+standard size. (Smithsonian photo 48329-J.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 96.--A. B. HOWE SEWING MACHINE of about 1860.
+(Smithsonian photo 45525-C.)]
+
+Figures 96, 97, and 98.--THE HOWE MACHINES. It is difficult for many to
+believe that the stamped legend "Elias Howe patent, Sept. 10, 1846" does
+not certify that a machine is an original Howe. Although Elias Howe was
+granted a patent for the lockstitch machine in 1846, he did not
+establish a sewing-machine factory for about twenty years. Early in the
+1850s and later through the "Combination," however, he licensed others
+to make machines using his patent. These machines bore that patent date
+for which a royalty was being paid.
+
+Among his early licensees was his elder brother Amasa who organized the
+Howe Sewing Machine Co. in 1854. The Amasa Howe machines were very good
+ones, and in 1862 Amasa won the prize medal at the London International
+Exhibition. This immensely increased the popularity of the machine and
+Elias offered to join Amasa by building a large factory at Bridgeport,
+Connecticut, to fill the increasing demand for more machines. The
+machines produced at Bridgeport, however, although imitating the Amasa
+Howe machines, proved inferior in quality. Amasa found that, rather than
+helping his business reputation, his brother's efforts were hurting him,
+and he severed business relations with Elias.
+
+Because of their brief association, the 1862 prize medal awarded to A.
+B. Howe was sometimes credited to Elias. The latter did receive awards
+for his patent, but never for his manufactured machines. When the two
+brothers dissolved their joint venture, Elias attempted to call his new
+company the Howe Sewing Machine Co., but Amasa's claim that this name
+had been his exclusive property for many years was upheld by the courts.
+Elias then omitted the word "Sewing" and called his company simply the
+Howe Machine Co.
+
+After Elias died in 1867, the company was run by his sons-in-law, the
+Stockwell brothers. To distinguish their machines from those of A. B.
+Howe, they marked each machine with a brass medallion picturing the head
+and flowing locks of Elias Howe. They also continued to advertise their
+machine as the "original" Howe. In about 1873, B. P. Howe, Amasa's son,
+sold the Howe Sewing Machine Co. to the Stockwell brothers, who
+continued to manufacture Howe machines until 1886.
+
+The machines of the A. B. Howe Sewing Machine Co. may be dated by serial
+number approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-60                 1854
+  61-113               1855
+  114-166              1856
+  167-299              1857
+  300-478              1858
+  479-1399             1859
+
+No figures are available for 1860-1870, but 20,051 machines were
+manufactured in 1871.
+
+The machines of the [Elias] Howe Machine Co. are not believed to have
+begun with serial number 1, and no figures are available for 1865-1867.
+After that, the machines may be dated by serial number approximately as
+follows:
+
+_Serial Number_ _Year_
+
+11,000-46,000        1868
+46,001-91,843        1869
+91,844-167,000       1870
+167,001-301,010      1871
+301,011-446,010      1872
+446,011-536,010      1873
+536,011-571,010      1874
+571,011-596,010      1875
+596,011-705,304      1876
+
+No figures are available for 1877-1886.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 97.--ADVERTISING BROCHURE distributed by E. Howe
+during the brothers' brief partnership; the machines are basically A. B.
+Howe machines, 1863. (Smithsonian photo 49373-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 98.--HOWE (STOCKWELL BROTHERS) MACHINE, 1870.
+(Smithsonian photo 45572-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 99.--PATENT MODEL OF CHRISTOPHER HODGKINS,
+November 2, 1852, assigned to Nehemiah Hunt. (Smithsonian photo 34551.)]
+
+Figures 99, 100, and 101.--THE N. HUNT (later, in 1856, Hunt & Webster
+and finally in 1858 Ladd and Webster) sewing machine was based on the
+patents of Christopher Hodgkins, November 2, 1852, and May 9, 1854, both
+of which were assigned to Nehemiah Hunt. First manufactured in 1853, the
+machine, which closely resembled the Hodgkins' patent, won a silver
+medal at the exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics
+Association that same year.
+
+In 1856 Hunt took a partner, and the company became Hunt & Webster. An
+interesting account of this company appeared as a feature article in
+_Ballou's Pictorial_, July 5, 1856, where it was reported that "the
+North American Shoe Company have over fifty of the latest improved
+machines, represented in these drawings [fig. 31], now running...." The
+article also estimated that a 55-million dollar increase in shoe
+manufacturing in Massachusetts in 1855 was due to the sewing machine. In
+1856 the Hunt & Webster machine again won a silver medal at the
+exhibition. Very late in 1858 the company became Ladd, Webster, & Co.
+and continued to manufacture both family and manufacturing sewing
+machines until the mid-1860s.
+
+The approximate date of manufacture can be determined by serial number:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-100                1853
+  101-368              1854
+  369-442              1855
+  443-622              1856
+  623-1075             1857
+  1076-1565            1858
+  1566-3353            1859
+
+No figures are available for the 1860s.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 100.--RIGHT: HUNT & WEBSTER sewing machine of
+about 1855, serial number 414. (Smithsonian photo 48216-V.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 101.--LADD, WEBSTER & CO. sewing machine of about
+1858, Boston, serial number 1497. (Smithsonian photo 46953.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 102.--IMPROVED COMMON SENSE sewing machine of
+about 1870. This machine is so very similar to the New England machines
+in its feed, threading, looping mechanism, and in its general design,
+that it is sometimes mistaken for the earlier New England machines (see
+figs. 112 and 113).
+
+Dating from the early 1870s, the Improved Common Sense machine is about
+10 inches in width, two inches larger than the New England machine. The
+spool holder is similar to Folsom's patented design, but is less
+refined. A page from an advertising brochure of the period verifies the
+name of the machine, but does not identify the manufacturer.
+
+There are no patent dates or identifying names or numbers on the machine
+illustrated. Although the Empire Co. also produced a machine of this
+style, their models are marked with their name and with Ketchum's patent
+date, April 23, 1863. Of the several styles of machine using the Raymond
+looper, this type seems to account for the largest volume manufactured,
+as evidenced by the proportionately higher number of examples still
+extant. (Smithsonian photo 48328-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 103.--JOHNSON SEWING MACHINE, 1857. Another of the
+all-but-forgotten manufacturers of the 1850s was Emery, Houghton & Co.,
+who constructed the A.F. Johnson machines. Examination of existing
+machines indicates that they were manufactured in 1856 and 1857, and
+possibly a little longer. This one from 1857 bears the serial number
+624, so we know that several hundred were manufactured. The head is
+ornately attractive, slightly reminiscent of Wheeler & Wilson models,
+and of standard size. (Smithsonian photo 48329-B.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 104.--"LADY" SEWING MACHINE of about 1859. The
+contemporary name of this machine is unknown. The unusual design of the
+head, or main support, is based in part on the design patent, number
+216, of Isaac F. Baker, issued April 10, 1849, for a "new and useful
+design[,] for ornamenting furniture[,] called Cora Munro" who was a
+character in James Fenimore Cooper's _Last of the Mohicans_. The design
+shows a female figure wearing a riding dress and hat that is ornamented
+with a plume and a bow. Her right hand holds a riding stick and the
+left, her skirt. Trunks of trees and foliage complete the Baker design,
+which is known to have been used for girandoles of the period. A
+companion design was also patented by Baker, number 215, which is in the
+form of a man in military costume and is named "Major Heyward," for
+another character in _Last of the Mohicans_.
+
+The sewing machines based on the "Cora Munro" design also use branch
+designs as the overhanging arms. A mother bird sits in the upper branch
+and descends to feed a young bird as the machine is in operation. The
+one illustrated was used as the machine submitted with a request for
+patent by George Hensel of New York City for which patent 24,737 was
+issued on July 12, 1859. Since Hensel's patent application was for an
+improvement in the feed, there was no need for the highly decorative
+head unless such a machine was commercially available. The patent
+specifications merely state that the head is "ornamented." Another
+sewing machine of this type was used as the patent model by Sidney
+Parker of Sing Sing, New York, number 24,780, issued on the same date as
+the Hensel patent. Parker's patent also covered an improved feeding
+mechanism. In the patent description, however, the inventor states that
+"the general form of the machine is not unlike others now in use." By
+this he might have meant in the design, or possibly in the basic
+structural form. Other than the two machines described, no other
+examples are known to have survived, but "Lady" or "Cora Munro" sewing
+machines were manufactured. (Smithsonian photo 45506-D.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 105.--LANDFEAR'S PATENT SEWING MACHINE of about
+1857. Another of the many machines that, except for isolated examples,
+have almost completely disappeared from the records is Landfear's
+machine. Fortunately, this manufacturer marked his machine--where many
+did not--stamping it: "Landfear's patent-Dec^r 1856, No. 262, W. H.
+Johnson's Patent Feb. 26th 1856, Manfrd by Parkers, Snow, Brooks & Co.,
+West Meriden, Conn." (There was a Parker sewing machine manufactured by
+the Charles Parker Co. of Meriden, but his machine was a double-thread
+chainstitch machine and was licensed by the "Combination." The Landfear
+machine may have been an earlier attempt by a predecessor or closely
+related company.)
+
+The Landfear patent was for a shuttle machine, but it also included a
+mode for regulating stitch length. The name chosen for this machine may
+be incorrect, since the single-thread chainstitch mechanism is primarily
+that of W. H. Johnson, but since the Johnson patent also was used on
+other machines the name "Landfear" was assigned. The machine was
+probably another attempt to evade royalty payment to the "Combination."
+
+The serial number 262 indicates that at least that many machines were
+manufactured, although this model is the only one known to be in
+existence. The support arm of the machine head is iron, cast as a vase
+of flowers and painted in natural colors. The paint on the head is
+original, but the table has been refinished, and the iron legs, which
+had rusted, have been repainted. (Smithsonian photo 48440-G.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 106.--LATHROP SEWING MACHINE of about 1873. These
+machines were manufactured by the Lathrop Combination Sewing Machine Co.
+under the patents of Lebbeus W. Lathrop of 1869, 1870, and 1873. The
+machine used two threads, both taken from spools; moreover, it produced
+not only the double chainstitch, but it was constructed to produce also
+a lockstitch and a combined "lock and chain stitch." The machine
+illustrated bears the serial number 31 and the patent dates of Grover &
+Baker, and Bachelder among others, in addition to the first two Lathrop
+patent dates. The company lasted only a few years as it is included in
+the 1881 list of manufacturers that had ceased to exist. (Smithsonian
+photo 46953-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 107.--ILLUSTRATION FROM A BROCHURE, marked in ink:
+"The National Portrait Gallery, 1855." Singer Archives. (Smithsonian
+photo 48091-E.)]
+
+Figures 107 and 108.--THE NICHOLS AND LEAVITT sewing machines. One of
+Elias Howe's earliest licensees was J. B. Nichols. His machine,
+manufactured at first with George Bliss and later alone as J. B. Nichols
+& Co., was called Howe's Improved Patent Sewing Machine. It was,
+however, no more a Howe machine than any of the others produced under
+the Howe patent.
+
+In July 1855 Nichols went into partnership with Rufus Leavitt, and the
+company name changed to Nichols, Leavitt & Co. In 1857 it was changed
+again to Leavitt & Co., and finally in the mid-1860s to Leavitt Sewing
+Machine Co. By the 1870s, it was defunct.
+
+The Nichols-Leavitt machines can be dated by their serial numbers
+approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_    _Year_    _Company_
+
+  1-28               1853      Nichols & Bliss
+  29-245             1854      J. B. Nichols & Co.
+  246-397            1855      J. B. Nichols & Co.--Nichols, Leavitt & Co.
+  398-632            1856      Nichols, Leavitt & Co.
+  633-827            1857      Leavitt & Co.
+  828-902            1858               "
+  903-1115           1859               "
+  1116-1436          1860               "
+  1437-1757          1861               "
+  1758-2077          1862               "
+  2078-2400          1863               "
+  2401-2900          1864               "
+  2901-3900          1865      Leavitt Sewing Machine Co.
+  3901-4900          1866               "
+  4901-5951          1867               "
+  5952-6951          1868               "
+  6952-7722          1869               "
+
+There is no record that the company was in existence after 1869.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 108.--LEAVITT SEWING MACHINE of about 1868, serial
+number 6907. (Smithsonian photo 48328.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 109.--LESTER SEWING MACHINE of about 1858. The
+Lester machine was first manufactured by J. H. Lester in Brooklyn, New
+York. His machine was based on the patents of William Johnson, John
+Bradshaw and others but not on the patents held by the "Combination,"
+although he had secured a license. When the Old Dominion Company applied
+for a license from the "Combination," Lester learned of this, went to
+Richmond, and arranged to combine his business with theirs. Since the
+Lester machine was the better one, it was agreed to cease the
+manufacture of the Old Dominion machines early in 1860 and in March the
+company name was changed to the Lester Mfg. Co. Late in 1860, George
+Sloat entered the company with his Elliptic machine; the name was
+changed again, this time to Union Sewing Machine Co. The manufacture of
+both sewing machines continued until the outbreak of the Civil War the
+following year, which brought a conversion to arms production. The
+manufacture of Lester machines was never resumed.
+
+The machine illustrated was manufactured by J. H. Lester in Brooklyn; it
+bears the serial number 96. The number of Lester machines manufactured
+from 1858 through 1861 is not known, but it was probably less than
+1,000. (Smithsonian photo P63359.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 110.--NE PLUS ULTRA of about 1867. Another of the
+interesting hand-turned chainstitch machines of the late 1850s and 1860s
+was patented by O.L. Reynolds. The baster plates and the handle on the
+wheel are missing on this machine, but an interesting shield and
+draped-flag pattern is painted on the base.
+
+Another machine of this type has the following inscription stamped on
+the baster plate: "Ne Plus Ultra, Patent Applied For, 174, O.L.
+Reynolds, Patentee & Manufacturer, Dover N.H." Reynold's patent model,
+March 30, 1858, bears the serial number 110, indicating that the machine
+illustrated here--which bears the serial number 26--was manufactured
+before the patent was obtained. (Smithsonian photo 48216-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 111.--NETTLETON & RAYMOND SEWING MACHINE. One of
+the most ornate of the early, small, hand-turned sewing machines was
+patented and manufactured by Willford H. Nettleton and Charles Raymond
+whose first patent was received on April 14, 1857. The patent model,
+believed to be a commercial machine, is beautifully silver-plated.
+Whether this was a special one-of-a-kind model, or whether the inventors
+tried to make a commercial success of a silver-plated machine is not
+known. The machine made a two-thread chainstitch, taking both threads
+from commercial spools. By October 1857, the inventors had received
+their second patent. This time the machine was brass and gilt--brighter,
+but less expensive. At the same time, Nettleton & Raymond began
+manufacturing sewing-shears machines under the patent of J. E.
+Hendricks.
+
+By the latter half of 1858, Nettleton & Raymond had moved from Bristol,
+Connecticut, to Brattleboro, Vermont. The patented improvement of the
+two-thread chainstitch machine received that year was in the name of
+"Raymond, assignor to Nettleton," although the machines of this type
+bear neither name nor patent date. No record of the price for which they
+were sold has been found, but it would be fair to estimate that it was
+probably about $25. This style of machine was discontinued when the
+manufacture of the simpler, more profitable New England model began, a
+machine that Raymond had initiated just before the partners left
+Bristol. (Smithsonian photo 45505-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 112.--RAYMOND PATENT MODEL, March 9, 1858.
+(Smithsonian photo 32009-O.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 113.--NEW ENGLAND sewing machine of about 1860,
+manufactured by Nettleton & Raymond; it bears the Raymond patent date of
+March 9, 1858. (Smithsonian photo 45505-G.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 112 and 113.--NEW ENGLAND SEWING MACHINES. The
+small, hand-turned, sewing machines some of which were called Common
+Sense, were manufactured by at least three companies and possibly more.
+The earliest ones were those made by Nettleton & Raymond based on
+Charles Raymond's patent of March 9, 1858, which featured a hinged
+presser foot acting as the top feed. On July 30, 1861, Raymond received
+a patent for an improved looper; this date is found on all machines
+later manufactured by the inventor.
+
+In 1858 Nettleton and Raymond had moved from Bristol, Connecticut, to
+Brattleboro, Vermont. Also in Brattleboro at this time were Thomas H.
+White and Samuel Barker, who were manufacturing a small machine called
+the Brattleboro. White left Vermont in 1862 and went to Massachusetts.
+There, in partnership with William Grout, he also began to manufacture
+New England machines; these were basically the same as the Raymond
+machines. After a short time, Grout left the partnership with White and
+moved to Winchendon, there continuing to make New England machines for
+approximately one more year. In 1865, J. G. Folsom of Winchendon
+exhibited a New England machine at the Tenth Exhibition of the
+Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association along with his Globe
+machine. Whether both machines were manufactured by him or whether he
+might have been exhibiting one of Grout's machines is not known.
+
+There is no record that New England machines were manufactured after
+1865. There is a great similarity between these machines and the
+Improved Common Sense sewing machines of the 1870s. It is believed that
+the name "Common Sense" was given by frugal New Englanders to several of
+the cheaper chainstitch machines of the 1860s.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 114.--PRATT'S SECOND PATENT MODEL, March 3, 1857,
+probably a commercial machine. (Smithsonian photo 48328-H.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 114 and 115.--PRATT'S PATENT and the Ladies
+Companion sewing machine. The machines manufactured under the patents of
+Samuel F. Pratt were first sold in 1857 and 1858 as Pratt's patent.
+These machines carry the Pratt name and the patent dates "Feb. 3, 1857
+Mar. 3;" the latter is an 1857 patent date also. In 1859 the Pratt
+machine was called the Ladies Companion and was so marked. It was also
+marked with the 1857 patent dates, the date February 16, 1858, and a
+serial number, and was stamped "Boston, Mass." Manufacture was
+discontinued after a few years.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 115.--LADIES COMPANION, 1859. (_Photo courtesy of
+The Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 116.--QUAKER CITY SEWING MACHINE. During the first
+decade of sewing-machine manufacture many types of handsome wooden cases
+were developed to house the mechanisms. Although such cases increased
+the total cost, they were greatly admired and were purchased whenever
+family funds permitted. The machine was based on the patents of William
+P. Uhlinger: a mechanical patent for a double chainstitch machine on
+August 17, 1858 (antedated May 8), and a patent for the casing on
+December 28, 1858. The machine head was lowered into the casing as the
+lid was brought forward and closed--an idea much ahead of its time.
+
+This Quaker City machine, serial number 18, was purchased by Benjamin F.
+Meadows of Lafayette, Alabama, for $150 just prior to the Civil War.
+Relatively few machines of this type were manufactured, and the Quaker
+City Sewing Machine Co. existed for only a few years. Its apparent hope
+for a southern market was short-lived, and it was unable to compete
+either with the companies licensed under the "Combination" or with those
+producing less expensive machines. (Smithsonian photo 46953-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 117.--FROM AN ADVERTISING BROCHURE, marked in ink,
+"The National Portrait Gallery, 1855," in the Singer Company's archives.
+The brochure states "Howard & Davis, 34 Water Street, Boston,
+Massachusetts Sole Manufacturers of Robinson's Patent Sewing Machine
+with Rope[r]'s Improvements." (Smithsonian photo 48091-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 118.--SEWING MACHINE OF ABOUT 1856 with
+inscription "Howard & Davis Makers, Boston, Mass. Robinson & Roper Pat.
+Dec. 10, 1850, Aug. 15, 1854"; the drive wheel and the circular
+stitching plate of this machine are missing. (Smithsonian photo
+48440-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 117 and 118.--ROBINSON AND ROPER sewing machines,
+1855-1856. This is one of the few machines producing a backstitch or
+half backstitch to realize any commercial success. Manufactured a very
+short time by Howard & Davis, it was a short-thread machine, based on
+the Frederick Robinson patent of December 10, 1850, and the Samuel Roper
+patent of August 15, 1854. Roper produced additional improvements for
+which he received a patent on November 4, 1856. In the _Scientific
+American_, November 1, 1856, the new machine was discussed: "Robinson &
+Roper exhibit their new improved sewing machines, which appear to
+operate with great success. Two needles are employed, the points of
+which are furnished with hooks that alternately catch the thread and
+form the stitch. The finest kind of cotton thread or silk can be used.
+The work appears well done. Price $100."]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 119.--ILLUSTRATED PAGE in a Shaw & Clark
+advertising brochure, published in late 1864. (Smithsonian photo
+61321.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 120.--SHAW & CLARK SEWING MACHINE (Page patent) of
+1867, Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts. (Smithsonian photo 48216-L.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 119 and 120.--SHAW & CLARK SEWING MACHINES. In
+addition to the early style Monitor sewing machine sold by Shaw & Clark
+without a name or any identifying marks, the company continued to
+manufacture machines after a lawsuit with the "Combination" forced them
+to take out a license. They manufactured an adapted version of their
+Monitor and an entirely new design patented in 1861. Their machines were
+now marked with the company name and a list of patent dates including
+those of Howe, Wheeler and Wilson, Grover and Baker, and Singer and the
+Batchelder patent, together with their own design patents. In 1867 the
+company moved from Biddeford, Maine, to Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts.
+In the same year, they began manufacturing a machine of the design
+patented by T. C. Page. The company is believed to have become the
+Chicopee Sewing Machine Company which appeared the following year and
+remained in business only a very short time. One Chicopee sewing machine
+is in the Smithsonian collection.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 121.--SINGER "Traverse Shuttle Machine--Letter A."
+(Smithsonian photo 58984.)]
+
+Figures 121 and 122.--SINGER SEWING MACHINES. From 1850 to 1858 the
+Singer company produced heavy manufacturing-type sewing machines similar
+to the patent model shown earlier (fig. 28). The first machine for
+family use, Singer's new "Family" sewing machine (fig. 33) was
+manufactured from 1858-1861. Their second-style family machine was
+called the "Traverse Shuttle Machine--Letter A;" it was manufactured
+from 1859 to 1865, when they introduced their third family machine and
+called it the "New Family" sewing machine. This style machine continued
+until about 1883 when the "Improved Family" machine appeared. In
+addition to the lockstitch machines, Singer also manufactured
+chainstitch machines, and many highly specialized manufacturing
+machines.
+
+From 1857 through the 1880s, the Singer machines were marked with two
+serial numbers. It is possible that the numbers were related to the
+"Combination" royalties paid by the Singer company. Until about 1873
+there was a difference of exactly 4,000 in the two numbers, thus one
+machine would be marked 12163 and directly below it would be marked
+16163. From 1873 the last three digits of the two numbers continued to
+be the same but the lower number might be much lower in value than
+either number used in earlier years. The larger number is believed to
+have been a record of total production while the lower number may have
+referred to a machine of a particular style. The Singer company records
+can shed no light on the meaning of the top (or lower of the two) serial
+numbers. Generally, in the earlier machines, the difference in the two
+numbers will not affect the dating of a machine by more than one year.
+Since dating by serial number can only be estimated, the two numbers do
+not add an appreciable variable prior to 1873. Only the larger number,
+however, should be considered in dating machines after 1873.
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-100                1850
+  101-900              1851
+  901-1711             1852
+  1712-2521            1853
+  2522-3400            1854
+  3401-4283            1855
+  4284-6847            1856
+  6848-10477           1857
+  10478-14071          1858
+  14072-25024          1859
+  25025-43000          1860
+  43001-61000          1861
+  61001-79396          1862
+  79397-99426          1863
+  99427-123058         1864
+  123059-149399        1865
+  149400-180360        1866
+  180361-223414        1867
+  223415-283044        1868
+  283045-369826        1869
+  369827-497660        1870
+  497661-678921        1871
+  678922-898680        1872
+  898681-1121125       1873
+  1121126-1362805      1874
+  1362806-1612658      1875
+  1612659-1874975      1876
+
+Since records of annual production from 1877 to the turn of the century
+are not complete, it is difficult to establish yearly approximations.
+Using the machines submitted as patent models, and thus known to have
+been manufactured before the date of deposit, however, has provided us
+with the following date guides. By 1877 there had been 2 million
+machines manufactured, 3 million by 1880, 4 million by 1882, 5 million
+by 1884, 6 million by 1886, 7 million by 1888, 8 million by 1889, 9
+million by 1890, and 10 million by 1891.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 122.--SINGER "New Family" sewing machine.
+(Smithsonian photo 58987.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 123.--STANDARD SEWING MACHINE of about 1870. This
+chainstitch machine is believed to have been made by the company that
+later became the Standard Shuttle Sewing Machine Company, when they
+began manufacturing lockstitch machines about 1874. This machine is
+marked with the name, "Standard," and with the dates "Patented July 14,
+1870, Patented Jan. 22, 1856, Dec. 9, 1856, Dec. 12, 1865." The dates
+refer to the reissue and extended reissue of the Bachelder and the A. B.
+Wilson patents. The number of chainstitch machines of this type that
+were manufactured is not known. (Smithsonian photo 45506-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 124.--TAGGART & FARR sewing machine, front view.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-P.)]
+
+Figures 124 and 125.--TAGGART & FARR sewing machine, 1860. The Taggart &
+Farr is an almost forgotten machine. It was based on Chester Farr's
+patent of August 9, 1859. The machine, however, was in commercial
+production as early as 1858, the year the patent application was made.
+Using two threads--both taken directly from the spool--to form a
+chainstitch, the machine was operated basically by treadle but also by
+hand. The drive wheel is missing on this machine, but it would normally
+appear on the right.
+
+The name and patent date were painted on the end of the machine. This
+was true of many other machines of this period, which is why so many go
+unidentified once the paint has become worn. Several thousand Taggart &
+Farr machines were manufactured, but the company is believed to have had
+a short life, for it was among those that had disappeared by 1881.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 125.--TAGGART & FARR sewing machine, end view.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-M.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 126.--WATSON SEWING MACHINE, 1856, illustrated in
+Scientific American, December 13, 1856. The earliest Watson machines
+were two-thread lockstitch machines, as described in the _Scientific
+American_, August 10, 1850. Although the magazine reported that the
+inventor had applied for a patent, the earliest lockstitch patent issued
+to William C. Watson was on March 11, 1856. A few of his machines were
+made in 1850, the article continued, "several of these machines are
+nearly finished ... persons desirous of seeing them can be gratified by
+calling upon Messrs. Jones & Lee." A Watson machine was exhibited by
+Jones & Lee at the Sixth Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association held in Boston in September 1850.
+
+In 1853 a Watson machine was exhibited at the New York Industry of All
+Nations Exhibition, but this was a single-looping machine; Watson
+received a patent for this single-thread machine on November 25, 1856.
+
+In the December 13, 1856, issue of _Scientific American_ a machine
+called Watson's "Family" sewing machine was illustrated and described.
+It was a small machine (only 8 by 5 inches) manufactured by Watson &
+Wooster and selling for $10. References to the Watson single-thread
+machine occur as late as 1860, but no examples are known to have
+survived. (Smithsonian photo 48221-B.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 127.--WEST & WILLSON SEWING MACHINE of about 1859.
+The West & Willson machine, manufactured under the patent of H. B. West
+and H. F. Willson, enjoyed a very brief span of popularity. The patent
+covered the peculiar method of operating a spring-looper in combination
+with an eye-pointed needle to form a single chainstitch, but whether
+machines of this single-thread variety were manufactured is unknown. The
+machine illustrated here is a two-thread machine of basically the same
+description. It stitches from left to right and bears serial number 1544
+and the inscription "West & Willson Co. patented June 29, 1858."
+(Smithsonian photo 49456-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 128.--WHEELER & WILSON SEWING MACHINE of about
+1872. Serial number 670974. (Smithsonian photo P63149-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 129.--WHEELER AND WILSON NO. 8 sewing machine of
+about 1876. (Smithsonian photo 17663-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 128 and 129.--Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines.
+The Wheeler and Wilson company was the largest manufacturer of sewing
+machines in the 1850s and the 1860s.
+
+It began in 1851 as A. B. Wilson; from 1852 to 1856 it was the Wheeler,
+Wilson & Co., Watertown, Connecticut; and from 1856 to 1876, it was
+Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co., Bridgeport, Connecticut.
+
+The style of the head changed very little during these years (see figs.
+26 and 27). Both a table style with iron legs and a cabinet model were
+made: the head was usually mounted to stitch from left to right. In
+1861, the company introduced the famous glass presser foot, patented on
+March 5 of that year by J. L. Hyde. The presser foot was made of metal
+but shaped like an open [?] into which was slid a small glass plate, with a
+hole for the needle descent. The glass allowed the seamstress to observe
+the stitching and to produce very close-edge stitching. It remained a
+favorite of many women for years. In 1876, the new No. 8 machine was
+introduced and a new series of serial numbers was initiated. It is,
+therefore, imperative to know that the machine is one of the earlier
+style machines before using the following list of serial numbers to date
+the machines, approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-200                1851
+  201-650              1852
+  651-1449             1853
+  1450-2205            1854
+  2206-3376            1855
+  3377-5586            1856
+  5587-10177           1857
+  10178-18155          1858
+  18156-39461          1859
+  39462-64563          1860
+  64564-83119          1861
+  83120-111321         1862
+  111322-141099        1863
+  141100-181161        1864
+  181161-220318        1865
+  220319-270450        1866
+  270451-308505        1867
+  308506-357856        1868
+  357857-436722        1869
+  436723-519930        1870
+  519931-648456        1871
+  648457-822545        1872
+  822546-941735        1873
+  941736-1034563       1874
+  1034564-1318303      1875
+  1138304-1247300      1876
+
+Records of the second series of serial numbers dating from 1876 are not
+available.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 130.--WHITE SEWING MACHINE. Although the White
+sewing machines date from 1876, Thomas H. White had been busy in the
+manufacture of sewing machines for many years prior to this. White is
+known to have been associated with Barker in the manufacture of the
+Brattleboro machine and later with Grout in producing one of the several
+New England machines. In 1866 he moved to Cleveland, Ohio, and began
+manufacturing machines for sale under special trade names through
+selling organizations. In 1876, the White Sewing Machine Company was
+formed and machines were sold under the White name.
+
+The machine illustrated is a standard lockstitch machine, which would
+have been set into a sewing-machine table and operated by a treadle. The
+small handle was used to start the wheel, and thus the stitching
+operation, in the forward direction. This machine bears the serial
+number 28241 and the following patents: "Mar. 14, 1876, May 2, 1876,
+Oct. 24, 1876, Jan. 16, 1877, Mar. 20, 1877, Mar. 27, 1877," which are
+primarily the patents of D'Arcy Porter and George W. Baker.
+
+The machines of the 1870s may be dated approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-9000               1876
+  9000-27000           1877
+  27001-45000          1878
+  45001-63000          1879
+
+(Smithsonian photo 48329-H.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 131.--WILLCOX AND GIBBS SEWING MACHINE, serial
+number 296572, of about 1878. From 1857 to the turn of the century, the
+style of the Willcox and Gibbs sewing machine changed very little (fig.
+39). It was the most popular and the most reliable of the many
+chainstitch machines. In addition to the basic mechanical patents, Gibbs
+also patented the design of the sewing-machine head in 1860. In the
+specifications, he described it as an open ring set on a base or
+pedestal. The lower part of the open section supported the cloth plate.
+The design of the head, intentionally or not, formed a perfect letter G,
+the initial of the inventor. Later the machine head as a letter G was
+incorporated into the company's trademark. Additional patents were also
+granted to James Willcox for a leg and treadle design and to Charles
+Willcox for mechanical improvements.
+
+It has not been possible to secure information on records of serial
+numbers from the late 1870s through the 1920s to aid in dating machines
+of that period. For the preceding years, however, the machines may be
+dated approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-10000              1857
+  10001-20000          1858
+  20001-30000          1859
+  30001-40000          1860
+  40001-50000          1861
+  50001-60000          1862
+  60001-70000          1863
+  70001-80000          1864
+  80001-90000          1865
+  90001-100000         1866
+  100001-115000        1867
+  115001-130000        1868
+  130001-145000        1869
+  145001-160000        1870
+  160001-190127        1871
+  190128-223766        1872
+  223767-239647        1873
+  239648-253357        1874
+  253358-267879        1875
+  267880-279637        1876
+
+Although the Willcox and Gibbs company is still in existence, for the
+past several decades the company has limited itself to the production of
+specialized manufacturing machines rather than family machines.
+(Smithsonian photo 58986.)]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+<----
+
+[Illustration: Figure 132.--ILLUSTRATION from _Knights American
+Mechanical Dictionary_, vol. 3, p. 2122. The 68 sewing-machine stitches
+in use by 1882 are as follows:
+
+     SINGLE THREAD
+
+      1. Running stitch.
+
+      2. Back stitch.
+
+      3. Fast stitch.
+
+      4. Chainstitch.
+
+      5. Coiled-loop chainstitch.
+
+      6. Knitted-loop chainstitch.
+
+      7. Knotted-loop chainstitch.
+
+      8. Loop enchained by second alternate stitch.
+
+      9. Each loop locks and enchains alternate loops.
+
+     10. Staple stitch (for waxed threads only).
+
+     TWO THREADS
+
+     11. Double-needle chainstitch.
+
+     12. Double-thread chainstitch (one needle).
+
+     13. Double-looped chainstitch.
+
+     14. Chain with interlocking thread.
+
+     15. Under-thread through its own loop.
+
+     16. Two needles penetrate fabric from opposite sides.
+
+     17. Two needles working from the same side.
+
+     18. Double interlocking loop.
+
+     19. Lockstitch.
+
+     20. Twist in needle thread.
+
+     21. Double twist in needle thread.
+
+     22. Twist in shuttle thread.
+
+     23. Double twist in shuttle thread.
+
+     24. Knot stitch, shuttle thread knotted at every stitch.
+
+     25. Knot stitch, shuttle thread knotted at every other stitch.
+
+     26. Knot stitch, shuttle thread through the needle thread loop and
+         knotted around the loop.
+
+     27. Shuttle thread pulled to the surface and interlocked with
+         succeeding stitch to form an embroidery stitch.
+
+     28. Wire-lock stitch, thread locked in place with wire.
+
+     THREE THREADS
+
+     29. Two shuttles, each locking alternate loops.
+
+     30. Double loop with interlocking third thread.
+
+     31. Two shuttle threads, both locking each loop.
+
+     32. Two shuttle threads intertwining and locking each loop.
+
+     33. Single thread; loop of needle thread drawn up over the edge and
+         locked by needle at its next descent.
+
+     34. Two threads; loops of needle thread, above and below, extend to
+         the edge of the fabric, and are locked by shuttle thread.
+
+     35. Two threads; needle penetrates back from edge, its loop passed
+         to and interlocked by the needle at its next descent over the
+         edge, and this second needle-loop locked by shuttle thread.
+
+     36. Two threads; shuttle thread drawn up over the edge of the
+         fabric to the line of the needle thread.
+
+     37. Two threads; needle loop through the fabric locked by needle
+         loop over the edge and second loop locked by second thread.
+
+     38. Two threads; edge of fabric covered by shuttle thread.
+
+     39. Three threads; third thread laid around the stitch at the edge
+         of the fabric.
+
+     ORNAMENTAL STITCHES
+
+     40. Zigzag; single thread chainstitch (4).
+
+     41. Zigzag; two-thread lockstitch (19).
+
+     42. Zigzag; two-thread chainstitch (13).
+
+     43. Zigzag; chain stitch with interlocking thread (14).
+
+     44. Zigzag; double loop with interlocking third thread (30).
+
+     45. Zigzag; running stitch (1).
+
+     46. Zigzag; two needles and shuttle.
+
+     47. Zigzag; variation of 46.
+
+     48-52. Zigzag stitches for sewing straw braid.
+
+     53-62. Straight straw-braid stitches.
+
+     63-67. Special embroidery stitches.
+
+     68. Saddler's stitch.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In the _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 3, no. 5, p. 12 (1881), there were
+listed a number of then "defunct" machines and companies. Among these
+are many well-known names and little-known names for which at least one
+additional reference can be found. There are some, however, for which
+this is the only reference to date. These are: Blanchard, Babcock,
+Banner, Brown Rotary, Cottage, Cole, Duplex, Economist, Erie, Gutman,
+Hill, Hancock & Bennett, Jenks, Lockmar, La Favorite, Learned, Leggett,
+McCoy, McCardy, Medallion, McArthur & Co., Monopoly, Moreau, Mack,
+Niagra, New Cannaan, Orphean, Pride-of-the-West, Seamen & Guiness,
+Surprise, Stackpole, Shanks, Stanford, Troy, Utica, United States
+Family, Weaver, Wagner, and Williams. Some of these names may have been
+a "special" name given to machines manufactured by one of the known
+companies, but at least a few are names of machines manufactured for a
+very short time prior to 1881 about which we would like to know more.
+
+
+
+
+III. Chronological List of U.S. Sewing-Machine Patent Models in the
+Smithsonian Collections
+
+
+There are more than seven hundred sewing-machine patent models and a
+similar number of attachment models in the Smithsonian collections. Most
+of these machines were received in 1926 when the Patent Office disposed
+of its collection of hundreds of thousands of models. Prior to 1880,
+models had been required with the patent application; although the
+requirement was discontinued that year, patentees continued to furnish
+models for another decade or so. All models prior to 1836 were lost in a
+Patent Office fire of that year, but since the sewing-machine patent
+history dates from the 1840s, most of the historically important ones of
+this subject have been preserved.
+
+These models form a valuable part of the record of the invention,
+supplementing the drawings and the text of the written specifications.
+The early sewing-machine models were made to order, either by the
+inventor or a commissioned model maker. As soon as sewing machines were
+produced commercially, it was less expensive for the patentee to use a
+commercial machine of the period, to which he added his change or
+improvement, than to have a complete model constructed to order. Some of
+the commercial machines used in this way are the only examples known to
+be in existence, and as such, are of more interest in establishing the
+history of the manufactured machine than for the minor patented changes.
+
+During the period of the "Sewing Machine Combination," many patentees
+attempted to invent and patent "the different machine." This was either
+a radical change in style or an attempt to produce a far less-expensive
+type of machine. These machines were not always put into commercial
+production, but the patent models give an indication of the extent to
+which some inventors went to simplify or vary the mechanics of machine
+sewing.
+
+The following is a list of those sewing-machine patent models in the
+Smithsonian Institution collections:
+
+  _Patentee_                       |_Date_         |_Patent Number_
+                                   |               |
+  Greenough, John J.               |Feb. 21, 1842  |2,466
+  Bean, Benjamin W.                |March 4, 1843  |2,982
+  Corliss, George H.               |Dec. 27, 1843  |3,389
+  Howe, Elias, Jr.                 |Sept. 10, 1846 |4,750
+  Bachelder, John                  |May 8, 1849    |6,439
+  Wilson, Allen B.                 |Nov. 12, 1850  |7,776
+  Robinson, Frederick R.           |Dec. 10, 1850  |7,824
+  Grover & Baker                   |Feb. 11, 1851  |7,931
+  Singer, Isaac M.                 |Aug. 12, 1851  |8,294
+  Wilson, Allen B.                 |Aug. 12, 1851  |8,296
+  Wilson, Allen B.                 |June 15, 1852  |9,041
+  Miller, Charles                  |July 20, 1852  |9,139
+  Avery, Otis                      |Oct. 19, 1852  |9,338
+  Hodgkins, G.                     |Nov. 2, 1852   |9,365
+  Bradeen, J. G.                   |Nov. 2, 1852   |9,380
+  Bates, W. G.                     |Feb. 22, 1853  |9,592
+  Thompson, T. C.                  |March 29, 1853 |9,641
+  Wickersham, W.                   |April 19, 1853 |9,679
+  Johnson, W. H.                   |March 7, 1854  |10,597
+  Harrison, J., Jr.                |April 11, 1854 |10,763
+  Avery, Otis                      |May 9, 1854    |10,880
+  Singer, Isaac                    |May 30, 1854   |10,975
+  Hunt, Walter                     |June 27, 1854  |11,161
+  Roper, S. H.                     |Aug. 15, 1854  |11,531
+  Shaw, P.                         |Sept. 12, 1854 |11,680
+  Ambler, D. C.                    |Nov. 1, 1854   |11,884
+  Robertson, T. J. W.              |Nov. 28, 1854  |12,015
+  Lyon, W.                         |Dec. 12, 1854  |12,066
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |Dec. 12, 1854  |12,074
+  Ward, D. T.                      |Jan. 2, 1855   |12,146
+  Conant, J. S.                    |Jan. 16, 1855  |12,233
+  Smith, H. B.                     |Jan. 16, 1855  |12,247
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Feb. 6, 1855   |12,364
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |March 20, 1855 |12,573
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |May 1, 1855    |12,798
+  Chilcott, J., and Scrimgeour, J. |March 15, 1855 |12,856
+  Durgin, Charles A.               |May 22, 1855   |12,902
+  Bond, J., Jr.                    |May 22, 1855   |12,939
+  Singer, Isaac                    |June 12, 1855  |13,065
+  Harrison, J., Jr.                |Oct. 2, 1855   |13,616
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Oct. 9, 1855   |13,661
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Oct. 9, 1855   |13,662
+  Langdon, L. W.                   |Oct. 30, 1855  |13,727
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |Nov. 27, 1855  |13,856
+  Swingle, A.                      |Feb. 5, 1856   |14,207
+  Watson, Wm. C.                   |March 11, 1856 |14,433
+  Singer, I. M.                    |March 18, 1856 |14,475
+  Grover, W. O.                    |May 27, 1856   |14,956
+  Blodgett, S. C.                  |Aug. 5, 1856   |15,469
+  Roper, S. H.                     |Nov. 4, 1856   |16,026
+  Singer, Isaac M.                 |Nov. 4, 1856   |16,030
+  Gibbs, James E. A.               |Dec. 16, 1856  |16,234
+  Jennings, L.                     |Dec. 16, 1856  |16,237
+  Johnson, A. F.                   |Jan. 13, 1857  |16,387
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |Jan. 20, 1857  |16,434
+  Howe, Elias, Jr.                 |Jan. 20, 1857  |16,436
+  Alexander, Elisa                 |Feb. 3, 1857   |16,518
+  Gray, Joshua                     |Feb. 3, 1857   |16,566
+  Belcher, C. D.                   |March 3, 1857  |16,710
+  Pratt, S. F.                     |March 3, 1857  |16,745
+  Nettleton & Raymond              |April 14, 1857 |17,049
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |June 2, 1857   |17,427
+  Harris, Daniel                   |June 9, 1857   |17,508
+  Harris, Daniel                   |June 16, 1857  |17,571
+  Sage, William                    |June 30, 1857  |17,717
+  Lathbury, E. T.                  |July 7, 1857   |17,744
+  Wickersham, W.                   |Aug. 25, 1857  |18,068
+  Wickersham, W.                   |Aug. 25, 1857  |18,069
+  Behn, Henry                      |Aug. 25, 1857  |18,071
+  Nettleton, Wm. H., and           |Oct. 6, 1857   |18,350
+    Raymond, Charles               |               |
+  Roper, S. H.                     |Oct. 27, 1857  |18,522
+  Fetter, George                   |Dec. 1, 1857   |18,793
+  Watson, W. C.                    |Dec. 8, 1857   |18,834
+  Behn, H.                         |Dec. 15, 1857  |18,880
+  Hubbard, George W.               |Dec. 22, 1857  |18,904
+  Lazelle, W. H.                   |Dec. 22, 1857  |18,915
+  Clark, David W.                  |Jan. 5, 1858   |19,015
+  Fetter, George                   |Jan. 5, 1858   |19,059
+  Clark, David W.                  |Jan. 12, 1858  |19,072
+  Clark, David W.                  |Jan. 19, 1858  |19,129
+  Dimmock, Martial, and            |Jan. 19, 1858  |19,135
+    Rixford, Nathan                |               |
+  Boyd, A. H.                      |Jan. 19, 1858  |19,171
+  Angell, Benjamin J.              |Feb. 9, 1858   |19,285
+  Clark, David W.                  |Feb. 23, 1858  |19,409
+  Raymond, Charles                 |March 9, 1858  |19,612
+  Hendrick, Joseph E.              |March 16, 1858 |19,660
+  Parker, Sidney                   |March 16, 1858 |19,662
+  Gray, Joshua                     |March 16, 1858 |19,665
+  Coates, F. S.                    |March 23, 1858 |19,684
+  Clark, David W.                  |March 23, 1858 |19,732
+  Reynolds, O. S.                  |March 30, 1858 |19,793
+  Bartholf, Abraham                |April 6, 1858  |19,823
+  Savage, E.                       |April 6, 1858  |19,876
+  Atwood, J. E., J. C., and O.     |April 13, 1858 |19,903
+  Bosworth, Chas. F.               |April 20, 1858 |19,979
+  Clark, David W.                  |June 8, 1858   |20,481
+  Herron, A. C.                    |June 15, 1858  |20,557
+  Johnson, A. F.                   |June 22, 1858  |20,686
+  Barnes, W. T.                    |June 29, 1858  |20,688
+  Smith, E. H.                     |June 29, 1858  |20,739
+  West, H. B., and                 |June 29, 1858  |20,753
+    Willson, H. F.                 |               |
+  Miller, W.                       |June 29, 1858  |20,763
+  Blake, Lyman R.                  |July 6, 1858   |20,775
+  Carpenter, Lunan                 |July 27, 1858  |20,990
+  Moore, Charles                   |July 27, 1858  |21,015
+  Smith, E. H.                     |Aug. 3, 1858   |21,089
+  Wheeler and Carpenter            |Aug. 3, 1858   |21,100
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |Aug. 10, 1858  |21,129
+  Uhlinger, W. P.                  |Aug. 17, 1858  |21,224
+  Clark, David W.                  |Aug. 31, 1858  |21,322
+  Blodgett, S. C.                  |Sept. 7, 1858  |21,465
+  Hubbard, G. W.                   |Sept. 14, 1858 |21,537
+  Hendrick, J. E.                  |Oct. 5, 1858   |21,722
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |Oct. 12, 1858  |21,751
+  Sangster, Amos. W.               |Oct. 26, 1858  |21,929
+  Avery, O. and Z. W.              |Nov. 9, 1858   |22,007
+  Spencer and Lamb                 |Nov. 23, 1858  |22,137
+  Perry, James                     |Nov. 23, 1858  |22,148
+  Burnet and Broderick             |Nov. 30, 1858  |22,160
+  Hook, Albert H.                  |Nov. 30, 1858  |22,179
+  Raymond, Charles                 |Nov. 30, 1858  |22,220
+  Bishop, H. H.                    |Dec. 7, 1858   |22,226
+  Pratt, S. F.                     |Dec. 7, 1858   |22,240
+  Atwood, J. E.                    |Dec. 14, 1858  |22,273
+  Fosket, W. A., and               |Jan. 25, 1859  |22,719
+    Savage, Elliot                 |               |
+  Snyder, W.                       |Feb. 15, 1859  |22,987
+  Clark, D. W.                     |May 3, 1859    |23,823
+  Boyd, A. H.                      |May 17, 1859   |24,003
+  Gray, Joshua                     |May 17, 1859   |24,022
+  Hook, Albert H.                  |May 17, 1859   |24,027
+  Spencer, James C.                |May 17, 1859   |24,061
+  Carhart, Peter S.                |May 24, 1859   |24,098
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |June 14, 1859  |24,395
+  Goodwyn, H. H.                   |June 21, 1859  |24,455
+  Grout, William                   |July 5, 1859   |24,629
+  Hensel, George                   |July 12, 1859  |24,737
+  Parker, Sidney                   |July 12, 1859  |24,780
+  Hall, William                    |July 26, 1859  |24,870
+  Hayden, H. W.                    |Aug. 2, 1859   |24,937
+  Kelsey, D.                       |Aug. 2, 1859   |24,939
+  Emswiler, J. B.                  |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,002
+  Farr, C. N.                      |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,004
+  Harrison, James, Jr.             |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,013
+  Tapley, G. S.                    |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,059
+  Barnes, W. T.                    |Aug. 16, 1859  |25,084
+  Booth, Ezekial                   |Aug. 16, 1859  |25,087
+  Hinkley, J.                      |Aug. 23, 1859  |25,231
+  Harrison, James, Jr.             |Aug. 30, 1859  |25,262
+  Buell, J. S.                     |Sept. 13, 1859 |25,381
+  Vogel, Kasimir                   |Oct. 4, 1859   |25,692
+  Woodward, F. G.                  |Oct. 11, 1859  |25,782
+  Barrett, O. D.                   |Oct. 11, 1859  |25,785
+  Barnes, William T.               |Oct. 25, 1859  |25,876
+  Sawyer, Irwin, and Alsop, T.     |Oct. 25, 1859  |25,918
+  Budlong, William G.              |Nov. 1, 1859   |25,946
+  Fosket, William A.,              |Nov. 1, 1859   |25,963
+    and Savage, E.                 |               |
+  Hicks, W. C.                     |Nov. 8, 1859   |26,035
+  Scofield, C.                     |Nov. 8, 1859   |26,059
+  Pearson, William                 |Nov. 22, 1859  |26,201
+  McCurdy, James S.                |Nov. 22, 1859  |26,234
+  Clark, Edwin                     |Dec. 6, 1859   |26,336
+  Dickinson, C. W.                 |Dec. 6, 1859   |26,346
+  Miller, Charles                  |Dec. 13, 1859  |26,462
+  Rowe, Jas.                       |Dec. 27, 1859  |26,638
+  Johnson, A. F.                   |Jan. 24, 1860  |26,948
+  Thomson, J.                      |Feb. 7, 1860   |27,082
+  Juengst, George                  |Feb. 14, 1860  |27,132
+  Davis, Job A.                    |Feb. 21, 1860  |27,208
+  Gibbs, James E. A.               |Feb. 21, 1860  |27,214
+  Rowe, James                      |Feb. 21, 1860  |27,260
+  Dopp, H. W.                      |Feb. 28, 1860  |27,279
+  Paine, A. R.                     |March 6, 1860  |27,412
+  Smalley, J.                      |March 20, 1860 |27,577
+  Newlove, T.                      |April 3, 1860  |27,761
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |May 1, 1860    |28,097
+  Arnold, G. B.                    |May 8, 1860    |28,139
+  Bean, E. E.                      |May 8, 1860    |28,144
+  Holly, Birdsill                  |May 8, 1860    |28,176
+  Chamberlain, J. N.               |May 29, 1860   |28,452
+  Ruddick, H.                      |May 29, 1860   |28,538
+  Scofield, Chas., and             |June 5, 1860   |28,610
+    Rice, Clarke                   |               |
+  Smith, Wilson H.                 |June 19, 1860  |28,785
+  Rose, I. M.                      |June 19, 1860  |28,814
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |June 26, 1860  |28,851
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |July 3, 1860   |28,993
+  Mueller, H.                      |July 3, 1860   |28,996
+  Sutton, Wm. A.                   |July 17, 1860  |29,202
+  Hicks, W. C.                     |July 24, 1860  |29,268
+  Tracy, D.                        |Sept. 11, 1860 |30,012
+  Washburn, T. S.                  |Sept. 11, 1860 |30,031
+  Arnold, G. B., and A.            |Sept. 25, 1860 |30,112
+  Leavitt, Rufus                   |Nov. 13, 1860  |30,634
+  Payne, R. S.                     |Nov. 13, 1860  |30,641
+  Heyer, Frederick                 |Nov. 27, 1860  |30,731
+  Hardie, J. W.                    |Dec. 4, 1860   |30,854
+  Earle, T.                        |Jan. 22, 1861  |31,156
+  Bruen, J. T.                     |Jan. 22, 1861  |31,208
+  Smith, J. M.                     |Feb. 5, 1861   |31,334
+  Smith, L. H.                     |Feb. 12, 1861  |31,411
+  Rice, Quartus                    |Feb. 12, 1861  |31,429
+  Rose, I. M.                      |March 5, 1861  |31,628
+  Ross, Noble G.                   |March 26, 1861 |31,829
+  Boyd, A. H.                      |April 2, 1861  |31,864
+  Mallary, G. H.                   |April 2, 1861  |31,897
+  Shaw, H. L.                      |April 9, 1861  |32,007
+  Burr, Theodore                   |April 9, 1861  |32,023
+  Jones, William, and              |May 14, 1861   |32,297
+    Haughian, P.                   |               |
+  Wilder, M. G.                    |May 14, 1861   |32,323
+  Smith, Lewis H.                  |May 21, 1861   |32,385
+  Stoakes, J. W.                   |May 28, 1861   |32,456
+  Fuller, William M.               |June 4, 1861   |32,496
+  Norton, B. F.                    |July 9, 1861   |32,782
+  Raymond, C.                      |July 9, 1861   |32,785
+  Raymond, Charles                 |July 30, 1861  |32,925
+  Case, G. F.                      |Aug. 13, 1861  |33,029
+  Hodgkins, C.                     |Aug. 20, 1861  |33,085
+  Marble, F. E.                    |Oct. 8, 1861   |33,439
+  Mann, Charles                    |Oct. 22, 1861  |33,556
+  Grover, W. O.                    |Nov. 26, 1861  |33,778
+  Hendrickson, E. M.               |Feb. 4, 1862   |34,330
+  Derocquigny, A. C. F.,           |March 25, 1862 |34,748
+    Gance, D., and Hanzo, L.       |               |
+  Thompson, R.                     |April 8, 1862  |34,926
+  Smith, John C.                   |April 15, 1862 |34,988
+  Palmer, Aaron                    |May 13, 1862   |35,252
+  Hall, W. S.                      |Aug. 5, 1862   |36,084
+  McCurdy, James S.                |Aug. 19, 1862  |36,256
+  Grover, W. O.                    |Sept. 9, 1862  |36,405
+  Wilkins, J. N.                   |Sept. 30, 1862 |36,591
+  Humphrey, D. W. G.               |Oct. 7, 1862   |36,617
+  House, H. A., and J. A.          |Nov. 11, 1862  |36,932
+  Crossby, C. O., and Kellogg, H.  |Dec. 2, 1862   |37,033
+  Shaw, A. B.                      |Dec. 16, 1862  |37,202
+  Pipo, John A.                    |Jan. 27, 1863  |37,550
+  Hollowell, J. G.                 |Feb. 10, 1863  |37,624
+  Howe, A. B.                      |March 17, 1863 |37,913
+  Weitling, W.                     |March 17, 1863 |37,931
+  Shaw & Clark                     |April 21, 1863 |38,246
+  Baldwin, Cyrus W.                |April 28, 1863 |38,276
+  Grote, F. W.                     |May 5, 1863    |38,447
+  Palmer, C. H.                    |May 5, 1863    |38,450
+  Mack, W. A.                      |May 19, 1863   |38,592
+  Bosworth, C. F.                  |June 9, 1863   |38,807
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |June 16, 1863  |38,931
+  Langdon, Leander W.              |July 14, 1863  |39,256
+  House, J. A., and H.A.           |Aug. 4, 1863   |39,442-39,445
+    (4 patents on 1 machine)       |               |
+  Tracy and Hobbs                  |Sept. 15, 1863 |40,000
+  Wagener, Jeptha A.               |Oct. 13, 1863  |40,296
+  Rehfuss, G.                      |Oct. 13, 1863  |40,311
+  Lathrop, Lebbeus W.,             |Oct. 27, 1863  |40,446
+    and de Sanno, Wm. P.           |               |
+  Heyer, W. D.                     |Nov. 17, 1863  |40,622
+  Simmons, A. G., and Scofield, C. |March 1, 1864  |41,790
+  Guinness, W. S.                  |March 15, 1864 |41,916
+  Willcox, Charles H.              |March 22, 1864 |42,036
+    (4 patents on 1 machine)       |Aug. 9, 1864   |43,819
+                                   |Sept. 27, 1864 |44,490
+                                   |Sept. 27, 1864 |44,491
+  Sibley, J. J.                    |March 29, 1864 |42,117
+  Thompson, R.                     |April 19, 1864 |42,449
+  McKay & Blake                    |May 24, 1864   |42,916
+  Chittenden, H. H.                |June 28, 1864  |43,289
+  Hall, Luther                     |July 5, 1864   |43,404
+  Planer, Louis                    |Aug. 23, 1864  |43,927
+  Atwater, B.                      |Sept. 6, 1864  |44,063
+  Dale, John D.                    |Oct. 11, 1864  |44,686
+  Gritzner, M. C.                  |Oct. 18, 1864  |44,720
+  Smith, DeWitt C.                 |Dec. 20, 1864  |45,528
+  Weitling, W.                     |Jan. 3, 1865   |45,777
+  Cadwell, C.                      |Jan. 24, 1865  |45,972
+  Bartlett, J. W.                  |Jan. 31, 1865  |46,064
+  McCurdy, James S.                |Feb. 7, 1865   |46,303
+  Lamb, Thomas, and                |Aug. 15, 1865  |49,421
+    Allen, John                    |               |
+  Humphrey, D. W. G.               |Aug. 29, 1865  |49,627
+  Tarbox, John N.                  |Sept. 5, 1865  |49,803
+  Crosby, C. O.                    |Oct. 3, 1865   |50,225
+  Cajar, E.                        |Oct. 3, 1865   |50,299
+  Hart, William                    |Oct. 17, 1865  |50,469
+  Hecht, A.                        |Oct. 17, 1865  |50,473
+  Emerson, John                    |Nov. 14, 1865  |50,989
+  Keats, John, and Clark, Wm. S.   |Nov. 14, 1865  |50,995
+  Rehfuss, George                  |Nov. 21, 1865  |51,086
+  Eickemeyer, Rudolf               |Feb. 20, 1866  |52,698
+  Hanlon, John                     |Feb. 27, 1866  |52,847
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |April 3, 1866  |53,743
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |May 15, 1866   |54,670
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |May 15, 1866   |54,671
+  Goodspeed, G. N.                 |May 15, 1866   |54,816
+  Hayes, J.                        |May 22, 1866   |55,029
+  McCloskey, John                  |June 19, 1866  |55,688
+  House, J. A. and H. A.           |June 26, 1866  |55,865
+  Tucker, Joseph C.                |July 24, 1866  |56,641
+  Warth, Albin                     |July 24, 1866  |56,646
+  Destouy, A.                      |July 31, 1866  |56,729
+  Schwalback, M.                   |July 31, 1866  |56,805
+  Cately, William H.               |Aug. 7, 1866   |56,902
+  Piper, D. B.                     |Aug. 7, 1866   |56,990
+  Leyden, Austin                   |Aug. 14, 1866  |57,157
+  Clements, James M.               |Aug. 21, 1866  |57,451
+  Davis, Job A.                    |Oct. 9, 1866   |58,614
+  Rodier, Peter                    |Nov. 13, 1866  |59,659
+  Duchemin, Wm.                    |Nov. 13, 1866  |59,715
+  Kilbourn, E. E.                  |Nov. 20, 1866  |59,746
+  Reed, T. K.                      |Dec. 4, 1866   |60,241
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Dec. 11, 1866  |60,433
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |Jan. 1, 1867   |60,669
+  Rehfuss, G.                      |Jan. 8, 1867   |61,102
+  Singer, Isaac                    |Jan. 15, 1867  |61,270
+  Cajar, Emil                      |Feb. 5, 1867   |61,711
+  Craige, E. H.                    |Feb. 19, 1867  |62,186
+  Reed, T. K.                      |Feb. 19, 1867  |62,287
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |March 5, 1867  |62,520
+  Fuller, H. W.                    |March 19, 1867 |63,033
+  Stannard, M.                     |April 23, 1867 |64,184
+  Craige, E. H.                    |Aug. 13, 1867  |67,635
+  Doll, Arnold                     |Sept. 3, 1867  |68,420
+  Bruen, L. B.                     |Sept. 17, 1867 |68,839
+  Hodgkins, C.                     |Oct. 8, 1867   |69,666
+  Baker, G. W.                     |Oct. 29, 1867  |70,152
+  Cadwell, Caleb                   |Nov. 19, 1867  |71,131
+  Fanning, J.                      |Dec. 31, 1867  |72,829
+  Warth, Albin                     |Jan. 7, 1868   |73,064
+  Rehfuss, George                  |Jan. 7, 1868   |73,119
+  Cornely, E.                      |Jan. 28, 1868  |73,696
+  Blake, L. R.                     |Feb. 11, 1868  |74,289
+  Fales, J. F.                     |Feb. 11, 1868  |74,328
+  Jencks, G. L.                    |Feb. 18, 1868  |74,694
+  Clark, Edwin E.                  |Feb. 25, 1868  |74,751
+  Halbert, A. W.                   |March 31, 1868 |76,076
+  Gritzner, M. C.                  |April 7, 1868  |76,323
+  Bartlett, Joseph W.              |April 7, 1868  |76,385
+  Waterbury, Enos                  |June 16, 1868  |79,037
+  Cole, W. H.                      |June 30, 1868  |79,447
+  Lamson, Henry P.                 |July 7, 1868   |79,579
+  French, S.                       |July 28, 1868  |80,345
+  Stein, M. J.                     |Sept. 8, 1868  |81,956
+  Hancock, H. J.                   |Oct. 27, 1868  |83,492
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |Nov. 3, 1868   |83,592
+  Benedict, C. P.                  |Nov. 3, 1868   |83,596
+  Bonnaz, A.                       |Nov. 10, 1868  |83,909
+  Bonnaz, A.                       |Nov. 10, 1868  |83,910
+  Elliott, F.                      |Jan. 19, 1869  |85,918
+  Canfield, F. P.                  |Jan. 19, 1869  |86,057
+  Arnold B.                        |Jan. 26, 1869  |86,121
+  Jones, John                      |Jan. 26, 1869  |86,163
+  Russell, W. W.                   |Feb. 9, 1869   |86,695
+  Eldridge, G. W.                  |March 2, 1869  |87,331
+  House, J. A. and H. A.           |March 2, 1869  |87,338
+  Gird, E. D.                      |March 9, 1869  |87,559
+  Carpenter, William               |March 9, 1869  |87,633
+  Dunbar, C. F.                    |March 30, 1869 |88,282
+  McLean, J. N.                    |March 30, 1869 |88,499
+  Billings, C. E.                  |April 6, 1869  |88,603
+  Winter, Wm.                      |April 13, 1869 |88,936
+  Tittman, A.                      |April 20, 1869 |89,093
+  Swartwout, H. L.                 |April 27, 1869 |89,357
+  Lyons, Lucius                    |April 27, 1869 |89,489
+  Crosby, C. O.                    |May 25, 1869   |90,507
+  Gutmann, J.                      |May 25, 1869   |90,528
+  Duchemin, William                |June 8, 1869   |91,101
+  Adams, John Q.                   |July 6, 1869   |92,138
+  Bond, Joseph, Jr.                |Aug. 10, 1869  |93,588
+  Hoffman, Geo. W.                 |Aug. 24, 1869  |94,112
+  Brown, John H.                   |Aug. 31, 1869  |94,389
+  Heery, Luke                      |Sept. 14, 1869 |94,740
+  Gray, Joshua                     |Oct. 5, 1869   |95,581
+  Smith, E. H.                     |Oct. 26, 1869  |96,160
+  Page, Chas.                      |Nov. 2, 1869   |96,343
+  Lyon, Lucius                     |Nov. 9, 1869   |96,713
+  Clever, P. J.                    |Nov. 16, 1869  |96,886
+  Mills, Daniel                    |Nov. 16, 1869  |96,944
+  Woodruff, Geo. B., and           |Nov. 16, 1869  |97,014
+    Browning, Geo.                 |               |
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |Dec. 7, 1869   |97,518
+  Hurtu, Auguste J., and           |Dec. 21, 1869  |98,064
+    Hautin, Victor J.              |               |
+  Lamb, Thomas                     |Dec. 28, 1869  |98,390
+  Rudolph, B.                      |Feb. 1, 1870   |99,481
+  Porter, Alonzo                   |Feb. 8, 1870   |99,704
+  Smith, W. T.                     |Feb. 8, 1870   |99,743
+  Meyers, N.                       |Feb. 15, 1870  |99,783
+  Grover, W. O.                    |Feb. 22, 1870  |100,139
+  Spoehr, F.                       |April 12, 1870 |101,779
+  Kendall, George F.               |April 12, 1870 |101,887
+  Cooney, W.                       |April 26, 1870 |102,226
+  Brown, F. H.                     |April 26, 1870 |102,366
+  Howard E., and Jackson, W. H.    |May 31, 1870   |103,745
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |June 14, 1870  |104,247
+  Henriksen, H. P.                 |June 21, 1870  |104,590
+  Martine, Charles F.              |June 21, 1870  |104,612
+  Nasch, Isidor                    |June 21, 1870  |104,630
+  Hall, L.                         |July 12, 1870  |105,329
+  Lyon, Lucius                     |July 26, 1870  |105,820
+  Bennor, Joseph                   |Aug. 9, 1870   |106,249
+  Barnes, M. M.                    |Aug. 16, 1870  |106,307
+  Leslie, Arthur M.                |Oct. 18, 1870  |108,492
+  Rayer, William A.,and            |Nov. 1, 1870   |108,827
+    Lincoln, Wm. S.                |               |
+  Landfear, Wm. R.                 |Nov. 22, 1870  |109,427
+  Parham, Charles                  |Nov. 22, 1870  |109,443
+  Lamb, I. W.                      |Nov. 29, 1870  |109,632
+  Moreau, Eugene                   |Jan. 3, 1871   |110,669
+  Robinson, Charles E.             |Jan. 3, 1871   |110,790
+  Goodyear, Charles, Jr.           |Jan. 24, 1871  |111,197
+  Stevens, G., and Hendy, J.       |Jan. 31, 1871  |111,488
+  Carpenter, Mary P.               |Feb. 21, 1871  |112,016
+  Hancock, Henry J.                |Feb. 21, 1871  |112,033
+  Sidenberg, W.                    |March 14, 1871 |112,745
+  Chase, M.                        |April 11, 1871 |113,498
+  Stein, M. J.                     |April 11, 1871 |113,593
+  Tate, Wm. J.                     |April 11, 1871 |113,704
+  House, J. A. and H. A.           |May 2, 1871    |114,294
+  Sidenberg, W.                    |May 23, 1871   |115,117
+  Beuttels, Charles                |May 23, 1871   |115,155
+  Thompson, G.                     |May 23, 1871   |115,255
+  Willcox and Carleton             |June 27, 1871  |116,521
+    (3 patents on 1 machine)       |               |116,522
+                                   |               |116,523
+  Willcox and Carleton             |July 4, 1871   |116,783
+  Goodyear, Charles, Jr.           |July 11, 1871  |116,947
+  Necker, Carl                     |July 18, 1871  |117,101
+  Pitt, James; Joseph;             |July 18, 1871  |117,203
+    Edward; and Wm.                |               |
+  Jones, John T.                   |Aug. 1, 1871   |117,640
+  West, E. P.                      |Aug. 1, 1871   |117,708
+  Jones, Solomon                   |Aug. 29, 1871  |118,537
+    (2 patents on 1 machine)       |               |118,538
+  Lamb, Thomas                     |Sept. 5, 1871  |118,728
+  Bosworth, C. F.                  |Jan. 9, 1872   |122,555
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |Jan. 9, 1872   |122,673
+  Fish, Warren L.                  |Feb. 13, 1872  |123,625
+  Palmer, C. H.                    |March 19, 1872 |124,694
+  Baker, G. W.                     |April 9, 1872  |125,374
+  Gordon and Kinert                |April 16, 1872 |125,807
+  Howard, C. W.                    |April 23, 1872 |126,056
+    (second machine)               |               |126,057
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |May 14, 1872   |126,845
+  Beckwith, W. G.                  |May 21, 1872   |126,921
+  Bouscay, Eloi, Jr.               |May 28, 1872   |127,145
+  Braundbeck, E.                   |June 11, 1872  |127,675
+  Heidenthal, W.                   |June 11, 1872  |127,765
+  Cleminshaw, S.                   |June 25, 1872  |128,363
+  Wardwell, S. W., Jr.             |July 2, 1872   |128,684
+  Springer, W. A.                  |July 9, 1872   |128,919
+  Fanning, John                    |July 16, 1872  |129,013
+  Parks, Volney                    |July 30, 1872  |129,981
+  Baker, G. W.                     |July 30, 1872  |130,005
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |Aug. 6, 1872   |130,324
+  McClure, A. T.                   |Aug. 13, 1872  |130,385
+  Ashe, Robert                     |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,555
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,557
+  West, Elliot P.                  |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,674
+  Happe, J., and Newman, W.        |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,715
+  Hinds, Jesse L.                  |Sept. 10, 1872 |131,166
+  Brown, F. H.                     |Oct. 1, 1872   |131,735
+  Beckwith, W. G.                  |Nov. 26, 1872  |133,351
+  Turner, S. S.                    |Dec. 3, 1872   |133,553
+  Chandler, R.                     |Dec. 10, 1872  |133,757
+  Venner, O.                       |Dec. 10, 1872  |133,814
+  Duchemin, W.                     |Jan. 21, 1873  |135,032
+  Sheffield, G. V.                 |Jan. 21, 1873  |135,047
+  Parham, Charles                  |Feb. 4, 1873   |135,579
+  Goodes, E. A.                    |March 11, 1873 |136,718
+  Tittman, A.                      |March 11, 1873 |136,792
+  Happe, J., and Newman, W.        |March 25, 1873 |137,199
+  Ragan, Daniel                    |April 1, 1873  |137,321
+  O'Neil, John                     |April 8, 1873  |137,618
+  Kallmeyer, G.                    |April 8, 1873  |137,689
+  Ross, J. G., and Miller, T. L.   |May 13, 1873   |138,764
+  West, Elliott P.                 |May 13, 1873   |138,772
+  Koch and Brass                   |May 13, 1873   |138,898
+  Arnold, B.                       |May 20, 1873   |138,981
+  Arnold, B.                       |May 20, 1873   |138,982
+  Lathrop, L. W.                   |May 20, 1873   |139,067
+  Chandler, Rufus                  |May 27, 1873   |139,368
+  Jones, S. H.                     |July 8, 1873   |140,631
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |July 22, 1873  |141,088
+  Wardwell, S. W., Jr.             |July 29, 1873  |141,245
+  Stewart, J., Jr.                 |July 29, 1873  |141,397
+  Walker, William                  |July 29, 1873  |141,407
+  Blanchard, Helen A.              |Aug. 19, 1873  |141,987
+  Springer, W. A.                  |Aug. 26, 1873  |142,290
+  Cushman, C. S.                   |Sept. 2, 1873  |142,442
+  Porter, D. A.                    |Nov. 25, 1873  |144,864
+  Koch & Brass                     |Dec. 2, 1873   |145,215
+  Richardson, E. F.                |Dec. 16, 1873  |145,687
+  Weber, Theo. A.                  |Dec. 23, 1873  |145,823
+  Scribner, Benjamin, Jr.          |Jan. 13, 1874  |146,483
+  Black, Samuel S.                 |Jan. 20, 1874  |146,642
+  Taylor, F. B.                    |Jan. 20, 1874  |146,721
+  Richardson, Everett P.           |Jan. 27, 1874  |146,948
+  Muir, William                    |Feb. 3, 1874   |147,152
+  Goodes, E. A.                    |Feb. 10, 1874  |147,387
+  Springer, Wm. A.                 |Feb. 10, 1874  |147,441
+  True, C. B.                      |March 10, 1874 |148,336
+  Wardwell, S. W., Jr.             |March 10, 1874 |148,339
+  Shorey, Samuel W.                |March 17, 1874 |148,765
+  Smith, James H.                  |March 24, 1874 |148,902
+  Horr, Addison D.                 |April 21, 1874 |149,862
+  Page, Chas.                      |May 5, 1874    |150,479
+  Crane, Thomas                    |May 5, 1874    |150,532
+  Buhr, J.                         |May 26, 1874   |151,272
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |June 9, 1874   |151,801
+  Wensley, James                   |June 16, 1874  |152,055
+  Dinsmore, A. S., and             |June 30, 1874  |152,618
+    Carter, John T.                |               |
+  Speirs, J.                       |July 7, 1874   |152,813
+  Brewer, A. G.                    |July 14, 1874  |152,894
+  Baglin, Wm.                      |Aug. 18, 1874  |154,113
+  Howard, E. L.                    |Aug. 25, 1874  |154,485
+  Landfear, Wm. R.                 |Sept. 22, 1874 |155,193
+  Drake, Ellis                     |Oct. 13, 1874  |155,932
+  Barney, Samuel C.                |Oct. 20, 1874  |156,119
+  Moreau, Eugene                   |Oct. 20, 1874  |156,171
+  Huntington, Thomas S.            |Dec. 29, 1874  |158,214
+  Bartlett and Plant               |Jan. 26, 1875  |159,065
+  Garland, H. P.                   |Feb. 16, 1875  |159,812
+  Dinsmore, Alfred S.              |March 9, 1875  |160,512
+  McCloskey, John                  |March 30, 1875 |161,534
+  Schmidt, Albert E.               |April 27, 1875 |162,697
+  Darling & Darling                |May 25, 1875   |163,639
+  Richardson, Everett P.           |July 13, 1875  |165,506
+  Whitehill, Robert                |July 27, 1875  |166,172
+  Weber, Theodore A.               |Aug. 3, 1875   |166,236
+  Pearson, Wm.                     |Aug. 17, 1875  |166,805
+  Beckwith, William G.             |Sept. 7, 1875  |167,382
+  Hall, John S.                    |Oct. 11, 1875  |168,637
+  Jones, J. T.                     |Oct. 26, 1875  |169,106
+  Garland, H. P.                   |Oct. 26, 1875  |169,163
+  Wormald & Dobson                 |Nov. 9, 1875   |169,881
+  Rose, R. M.                      |Nov. 30, 1875  |170,596
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |Dec. 7, 1875   |170,741
+  Keith, T. K.                     |Dec. 14, 1875  |170,955
+  Leavitte, Albert                 |Dec. 14, 1875  |171,147
+  Toll, Charles F.                 |Dec. 14, 1875  |171,193
+  Keats, Greenwood, & Keats        |Dec. 28, 1875  |171,622
+  Thayer, Augustus                 |Jan. 11, 1876  |172,205
+  Frese, B.                        |Jan. 18, 1876  |172,308
+  Pearson, William                 |Jan. 18, 1876  |172,478
+  Sawyer & Esty                    |Feb. 29, 1876  |174,159
+  Porter & Baker                   |March 14, 1876 |174,703
+  Walker, William                  |April 11, 1876 |176,101
+  Upson, L. A.                     |April 18, 1876 |176,153
+  Witherspoon, S. A.               |April 18, 1876 |176,211
+  Rice, T. M.                      |April 25, 1876 |176,686
+  Murphy, E.                       |May 2, 1876    |176,880
+  Bradford, E. F., and             |May 16, 1876   |177,371
+    Pierce, V. R.                  |               |
+  Applegate & Webb                 |May 25, 1876   |177,784
+  Sullivan, John J.                |June 27, 1876  |179,232
+  Appleton, C. J., and             |July 4, 1876   |179,440
+    Sibley, J. J.                  |               |
+  Marin, Chas.                     |July 11, 1876  |179,709
+  Gullransen, P. E., and           |July 25, 1876  |180,225
+    Rettinger, J. C.               |               |
+  Butcher, Joseph                  |Aug. 1, 1876   |180,542
+  Jackson, William                 |Sept. 5, 1876  |181,941
+  Barton, Kate C.                  |Sept. 12, 1876 |182,096
+  Eickemeyer, Rudolf               |Sept. 12, 1876 |182,182
+  Webster, W.                      |Sept. 12, 1876 |182,249
+  Knoch, C. F.                     |Oct. 17, 1876  |183,400
+  Cushman, C. S.                   |Nov. 21, 1876  |184,594
+  Harris, David                    |Dec. 12, 1876  |185,228
+  Wood, J.                         |Dec. 26, 1876  |185,811
+  Oram, Henry                      |Jan. 2, 1877   |185,952
+  Palmer, Frank L.                 |Jan. 2, 1877   |185,954
+  Hall, John S.                    |Feb. 6, 1877   |187,006
+  Palmateer, William A.            |Feb. 20, 1877  |187,479
+  Cummins, William G.              |Feb. 27, 1877  |187,822
+  Esty, William                    |Feb. 27, 1877  |187,837
+  Leavitt & Drew                   |Feb. 27, 1877  |187,874
+  Henriksen, H. P.                 |March 20, 1877 |188,515
+  McKay, Gordon                    |March 27, 1877 |188,809
+  Follett, J. L.                   |April 10, 1877 |189,446
+  Bond, James, Jr.                 |April 17, 1877 |189,599
+  Jacob, F.                        |April 24, 1877 |190,047
+  Beck, A.                         |May 1, 1877    |190,184
+  Hallett, H. H.                   |June 5, 1877   |191,584
+  Randel, William                  |June 12, 1877  |192,008
+  Corbett, E., and Harlow, C. F.   |July 3, 1877   |192,568
+  Brown, F. H.                     |July 24, 1877  |193,477
+  Melhuish, R. M.                  |Aug. 28, 1877  |194,610
+  Atwood, K. C.                    |Sept. 4, 1877  |194,759
+  Macaulay, F. A.                  |Oct. 9, 1877   |195,939
+  Dimond, George H.                |Oct. 16, 1877  |196,198
+  Sedmihradsky, A. J.              |Oct. 23, 1877  |196,486
+  Keith, J.                        |Nov. 6, 1877   |196,809
+  Beck, August                     |Nov. 6, 1877   |196,863
+  Keith, T. H.                     |Nov. 6, 1877   |196,909
+  Keats, John                      |Dec. 11, 1877  |198,120
+  Briggs, Thomas                   |Jan. 1, 1878   |198,790
+  Corey, J. W.                     |Jan. 8, 1878   |198,970
+  Howard, T. S. L.                 |Jan. 15, 1878  |199,206
+  Bosworth, C. F.                  |Jan. 22, 1878  |199,500
+  Dancel, C.                       |Jan. 29, 1878  |199,802
+  Pearson, M. H.                   |Feb. 5, 1878   |199,991
+  Morrell, Robert W.;              |April 23, 1878 |202,857
+    Parkinson, Thomas; and         |               |
+    Parkinson, Joseph              |               |
+  Barcellos, D.                    |April 30, 1878 |203,102
+  Elderfield, F. D.                |June 4, 1878   |204,429
+  Heberling, J.                    |June 4, 1878   |204,604
+  Beukler, William                 |June 11, 1878  |204,704
+  Varicas, L.                      |June 11, 1878  |204,864
+  Stewart, W. T.                   |July 2, 1878   |205,698
+  House, Jas. A.                   |July 23, 1878  |206,239
+  Martin, W., Jr.; Dawson,  D. R.; |Aug. 6, 1878   |206,743
+    and Orchar, R.                 |               |
+  Conklin, N. A.                   |Aug. 6, 1878   |206,774
+  Wollenberg, H., and Priesner, J. |Aug. 6, 1878   |206,848
+  Young, E. S., and Dimond, G. H.  |Aug. 13, 1878  |206,992
+  Hoffman, Clara P., and           |Aug. 13, 1878  |207,035
+    Meyers, Nicholas               |               |
+  Wensley, Jas.                    |Aug. 20, 1878  |207,230
+  Dimond, G. H.                    |Aug. 27, 1878  |207,400
+  Steward, A.                      |Aug. 27, 1878  |207,454
+  Wood, Richard G.                 |Sept. 10, 1878 |207,928
+  McCombs, Geo. F.                 |Sept. 24, 1878 |208,407
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |Oct. 22, 1878  |209,126
+  Wells, W. W.                     |Nov. 12, 1878  |209,843
+  Bayley, C. H.                    |Feb. 11, 1879  |212,122
+  Parmenter, Charles O.            |Feb. 18, 1879  |212,495
+  Ingalls, N., Jr.                 |Feb. 25, 1879  |212,602
+  Cleminshaw, S.                   |March 18, 1879 |213,391
+  Webb, T., and Heartfield, C. H.  |March 25, 1879 |213,537
+  Borton, Stockton                 |April 8, 1879  |214,089
+  Henriksen, H. P.                 |May 20, 1879   |215,615
+  Bland, Henry                     |June 3, 1879   |216,016
+  Morrison, T. W.                  |June 10, 1879  |216,289
+  Bosworth, Charles F.             |June 17, 1879  |216,504
+  Simmons, Frederick               |June 24, 1879  |216,902
+  Junker, Carl                     |July 1, 1879   |217,112
+  Legat, Desire Mathurin           |Aug. 12, 1879  |218,388
+  Willcox, C. H.                   |Aug. 12, 1879  |218,413
+  Cornely, Emile                   |Sept. 2, 1879  |219,225
+  Hamm, E.                         |Sept. 16, 1879 |219,578
+  Tuttle, J. W., and Keith, T. K.  |Sept. 16, 1879 |219,782
+  Stackpole, G., and               |Oct. 7, 1879   |220,314
+    Applegate, J. H.               |               |
+  Otis, S. L.                      |Oct. 28, 1879  |221,093
+  Bland, H.                        |Nov. 11, 1879  |221,505
+  Bracher, T. W.                   |Nov. 11,1879   |221,508
+  Snediker, J. F.                  |Nov. 25, 1879  |222,089
+  Mooney, J. H.                    |Dec. 2, 1879   |222,298
+  Osborne, J. H.                   |Feb. 3, 1880   |224,219
+  Smith, W. M.                     |March 2, 1880  |225,199
+  Banks, C. M.                     |March 23, 1880 |225,784
+  Haberling, J.                    |May 4, 1880    |227,249
+  Haberling, J.                    |May 11, 1880   |227,525
+  Wiseman, Edmund                  |June 8, 1880   |228,711
+  Juengst, George                  |June 15, 1880  |228,820
+  Morley, J. H.                    |June 15, 1880  |228,918
+  Curtis, G. H. W.                 |June 22, 1880  |228,985
+  Lipe, C. E.                      |June 29, 1880  |229,322
+  Miller, L. B., and Diehl, P.     |July 6, 1880   |229,629
+  Willcox, C. H.                   |July 20, 1880  |230,212
+  Shaw, E.                         |July 27, 1880  |230,580
+  Dinsmore, A. S.                  |Aug. 17, 1880  |231,155
+  Thurston, C. H.                  |Oct. 12, 1880  |231,300
+  Butcher, J.                      |Oct. 26, 1880  |233,657
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |Nov. 23, 1880  |234,732
+  Hesse, J.                        |Dec. 7, 1880   |235,085
+  Kjalman, H. N.                   |Dec. 21, 1880  |235,783
+  Morley, J. H.                    |Jan. 4, 1881   |236,350
+  Thomas, J.                       |Jan. 11, 1881  |236,466
+  Benson, G.                       |March 8, 1881  |238,556
+  Green, G. F.                     |March 8, 1881  |238,678
+  Eickemeyer, Rudolf               |March 29, 1881 |239,319
+  Palmer, C. H.                    |April 26, 1881 |240,758
+  Campbell, D. H.                  |May 17, 1881   |241,612
+  Campbell, Duncan H.              |May 17, 1881   |241,613
+  Leslie, A. M.                    |May 24, 1881   |241,808
+  Newell, George F.                |June 7, 1881   |242,470
+  Gritzner, Max C.                 |June 28, 1881  |243,444
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |July 5, 1881   |243,710
+  Choquette, A. E.                 |July 12, 1881  |244,033
+  Mooney, J. H.                    |July 19, 1881  |244,470
+  Beardslee, W. F.                 |Aug. 16, 1881  |245,781
+  Hine, Charlie M.                 |Aug. 23, 1881  |246,136
+  Willcox, C. H.                   |Sept. 6, 1881  |246,700
+  Hoefler, J.                      |Sept. 13, 1881 |246,883
+  Woodward, E.                     |Sept. 20, 1881 |247,285
+  Richards, Jean E.                |Jan. 24, 1882  |252,799
+  Abbott, W. W.                    |Jan. 31, 1882  |252,984
+  Secor, J. B.                     |Feb. 14, 1882  |253,772
+  Deschamps, O. L.                 |Feb. 21, 1882  |253,915
+  Hull, E. H.                      |Feb. 28, 1882  |254,217
+  Roberts, William                 |March 7, 1882  |254,696
+  Willcox and Borton               |March 28, 1882 |255,576
+  Borton and Willcox               |March 28, 1882 |255,577
+  Borton and Willcox               |March 28, 1882 |255,580
+  Borton and Willcox               |March 28, 1882 |255,581
+  Veukler, W.                      |April 4, 1882  |255,916
+  Hurtu, A. J.                     |May 30, 1882   |258,761
+  Keats, Alphonso                  |July 11, 1882  |260,990
+  Ramsden, John W.                 |Aug. 1, 1882   |262,116
+  Koch, William                    |Aug. 8, 1882   |262,298
+  Bigelow, J.                      |Aug. 29, 1882  |263,467
+  Mills, Daniel                    |Oct. 10, 1882  |265,850
+  Wilkinson, Charles E.            |Dec. 19, 1882  |269,251
+  Carlisle, W. S.                  |Jan. 9, 1883   |270,540
+  Holden, O. J., and Griswold, L.  |Feb. 13, 1883  |272,050
+  Cameron, James W.                |Feb. 20, 1883  |272,527
+  Miller, L. B., and Diehl, P.     |March 20, 1883 |274,359
+  Ludeke, W.                       |April 10, 1883 |275,506
+  Bolton, J., and Petnz, A. D.     |May 8, 1883    |277,106
+  Blodgett, John W.                |June 12, 1883  |279,320
+  Haberling, J.                    |Sept. 4, 1883  |284,300
+  Thimonnier, E., and Vernaz, C.   |Oct. 30, 1883  |287,592
+  Duchemin, William                |Nov. 20, 1883  |288,929
+  Lawrence, G. H.                  |Dec. 25, 1883  |290,895
+  Clever, Peter J.                 |April 8, 1884  |296,529
+  Palmer, John H.                  |May 6, 1884    |298,228
+  Dowling, James, and              |May 27, 1884   |299,118
+  Connolly, John                   |               |
+  Boecher, Adam                    |June 10, 1884  |300,199
+  Luedeke, Waldemar                |June 17, 1884  |300,380
+  VanVechten, Orville R.           |July 15, 1884  |302,063
+  Carr, Wm. H., and Ostrom, F. W.  |Aug. 12, 1884  |303,361
+  Trip, J.                         |Dec. 2, 1884   |308,711
+  Farrar, Arthur                   |Dec. 30, 1884  |309,837
+  Turner, M. G.                    |Feb. 17, 1885  |312,306
+  Mills, D.                        |March 3, 1885  |313,359
+  Hurtu, August J.                 |April 7, 1885  |315,037
+  Charmbury, Henry                 |April 28, 1885 |316,745
+  Woodward & Keith                 |April 28, 1885 |316,927
+  Walker, William                  |June 16, 1885  |320,099
+  Tucker, R. D.                    |June 23, 1885  |320,898
+  Wheeler and Dial                 |Oct. 13, 1885  |328,165
+  Thomas, Joseph                   |Nov. 10, 1885  |330,170
+  Muegge, C. A.                    |Dec. 8, 1885   |332,207
+  Diehl, P.                        |April 13, 1886 |339,623
+  Diehl, P.                        |Aug. 24, 1886  |347,776
+  Helwig, Arthur                   |Oct. 5, 1886   |350,364
+  Miehling, Charles                |Nov. 2, 1886   |351,992
+  Dieterle, H. E.                  |Nov. 30, 1886  |353,542
+  Walker, William                  |Dec. 7, 1886   |353,720
+  Rosenthal, S. A.                 |Dec. 7, 1886   |353,970
+  Temple, John                     |Feb. 22, 1887  |358,088
+  Gee, W. V.                       |April 19, 1887 |361,406
+  Lingley, John W.                 |Aug. 16, 1887  |368,538
+  Boppel, Jacob                    |Jan. 29, 1889  |396,979
+  Webster, William                 |April 30, 1889 |402,497
+  Osterhout and Hallenbeck         |May 7, 1889    |402,610
+  Bennett and Dowling              |Aug. 27, 1889  |409,728
+  Hine, Charles M.                 |Jan. 28, 1890  |420,382
+  Wheeler, Nathaniel               |Feb. 4, 1890   |420,847
+  Hallenbeck, J. P.                |April 8, 1890  |425,422
+  Lisle, Myron C.                  |May 20, 1890   |428,171
+  Walker and Bennet                |May 20, 1890   |428,548
+  Stewart, James, Jr.              |July 15, 1890  |432,449
+  Dewees, J. W.                    |July 22, 1890  |432,746
+  Powell, Thomas                   |Dec. 16, 1890  |442,695
+  Fletcher, James H.               |Dec. 30, 1890  |443,756
+  Rudolph, Ernst B., deceased,     |April 7, 1891  |449,927
+    Boulter, W. E., administrator  |               |
+  Goodwin, Julius C.               |April 21, 1891 |450,793
+  Cook, Hugo                       |June 23, 1891  |454,610
+  Bowyer, J. T.                    |June 23, 1891  |454,708
+  Willcox, C. H., and Borton, S.   |April 5, 1892  |472,094
+  Legg and Weston                  |May 17, 1892   |474,840
+  Kern, Ferdinand                  |July 19, 1892  |479,369
+  Jackson, Francis                 |May 1, 1894    |519,064
+  Charles Abercrombi               |June 5, 1892   |520,977
+  Taft, J. C.                      |Oct. 15, 1895  |547,866
+
+
+
+
+IV. 19th-Century Sewing-Machine Leaflets in the Smithsonian Collections
+
+  _Machine or Manufacturer_            |_Date_        |_Type_
+                                       |              |
+  American B.H.O. and Sewing Machine   |1874          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Buckeye sewing machine               |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, directions for using
+                                       |              |  the machine
+  New Buckeye                          |ca. 1872      |Illustrated, directions for using
+                                       |              |  the machine
+  Centennial sewing machine            |1876          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Domestic sewing machine              |1872          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Florence sewing machine              |1873          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Florence sewing machine              |1878          |Illustrated, directions for using
+                                       |              |  the machine
+  Goodes sewing machine                |ca. 1876      |Advertising leaflet
+  Grant Brothers sewing machine        |1867          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+                                       |              |  (Xerox copy)
+  Grover and Baker sewing machine      |1853          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Grover and Baker sewing machine      |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Home sewing machine                  |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Howe sewing machine, new "B" machine |1868          |Illustrated, instruction booklet
+  Howe sewing machine                  |1876          |Illustrated, catalog of machines
+  Independent Noiseless sewing machine |ca. 1874      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Ladd, Webster sewing machine         |1861          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Little Monitor sewing machine        |ca. 1872      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Remington Family sewing machine      |ca. 1874      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Shaw and Clark sewing machine        |1864          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Singer sewing machine                |1871          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Singer sewing machine                |1893          |Catalog of machines shown at the
+                                       |              |  Columbian Exposition
+  Standard Shuttle sewing machine      |ca. 1875      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Ten Dollar Novelty sewing machine    |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Weed sewing machine                  |1873          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine    |ca. 1869      |Illustrated, instruction booklet
+  Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine    |ca. 1870-1875 |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Wheeler and Wilson no. 8 machine     |ca. 1878      |Illustrated, instruction booklet
+  Wilson sewing machine                |1872          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+
+
+
+
+V. A Brief History of Cotton Thread
+
+
+Although Samuel Slater's wife is credited with making the first cotton
+sewing thread from yarns spun at the Pawtucket, Rhode Island, mill in
+about 1794, cotton thread did not become a manufactured item at that
+time. Slater turned all his interests to producing cotton-twist yarns
+needed for the warps of cotton fabrics. By 1809, however, the agents of
+Almy and Brown, partners and distributors for Slater, were advertising
+cotton thread as follows:
+
+     Factory Cotton and Thread Store, No. 26 Court Street opposite
+     Concert Hall. George Connell, Agent for Almy and Brown of
+     Providence and Pawtucket Manufactories, has now for sale from eight
+     to ten thousand weight of yarn, for weaving ... five hundred pounds
+     cotton thread, in hanks, from No. 12 to 60 of a superior quality
+     and very white.[91]
+
+Although it was a short hop from the spinning of cotton warps to the
+twisting of these cotton yarns to form a sewing thread, the general
+manufacture of cotton thread as an industry did not originate in the
+United States but rather in Scotland in the early 19th century.
+Napoleon's blockade, which curtailed Great Britain's importation of
+silk--needed not only for fabrics but also for making heddle strings for
+the looms--stimulated the production of cotton thread there. James and
+Patrick Clark, in desperation, attempted to substitute cotton for silk
+in their manufacture of these heddle strings. When they were successful,
+they considered that if cotton could be used successfully for this
+purpose it could also be made suitable for sewing thread. In 1812 they
+built a factory in Paisley, Scotland, which had long been noted for its
+textile industries. The thread was sold in hanks. About 1820 James'
+sons, James and John, who were now running J. & J. Clark & Co., began to
+wind the thread on spools. For this service they charged an extra
+halfpenny, which was refunded when the empty spool was returned. The
+thread was usually a three-ply or so-called three-cord thread.
+
+About 1815 James Coats, also of Paisley, started manufacturing thread at
+Ferguslie, Scotland. His two sons took over the company in 1826 and
+formed the J. & P. Coats Company. Another brother, Andrew Coats, became
+the selling agent in the United States about 1840. But the cotton-thread
+industry was not fully launched.
+
+As reported in an 1853 _Scientific American_, there was "more American
+thread made ten years ago than there is today."[92] It was not until the
+six-cord cabled cotton thread, which was suitable for both machine and
+hand sewing, was perfected that the industry progressed into full
+operation.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[91] William R. Bagnall, _Textile Industries of the United States_
+(Cambridge, Mass., 1893), vol. 1, p. 164.
+
+
+
+VI. Biographical Sketches
+
+
+BARTHELEMY THIMONNIER
+
+The first man known to have put a sewing machine into practical
+operation, Barthelemy Thimonnier, was a Frenchman of obscure parentage.
+His father, a textile dyer of Lyon, left that city in 1793 as a result
+of the Revolution and journeyed with his family to l'Arbresle where
+Barthelemy was born in August of that year.
+
+The family resources were small, and, although the young Thimonnier was
+able to begin studies at the Seminaire de Saint-Jean at Lyons, he soon
+was forced to leave school for financial reasons and return to his home,
+then at Amplepuis. There he learned the tailoring trade and by 1813 was
+fairly well established in his own shop.
+
+At that time many of the town's inhabitants were weavers and almost
+every house possessed one or two looms. The noise of the shuttle echoed
+from these family workshops. Thimonnier noted the relatively small
+amount of time needed to weave a fabric compared with the slow
+painstaking task of sewing a garment by passing the needle in and out
+for each stitch of each seam. When his mind began to dwell on the idea
+of producing a machine to do this stitching, another of the town's
+occupations supplied him with a clue and an additional incentive. This
+village industry produced a type of embroidery work called _point de
+chainette_, in which a needle with a small hook was used to form the
+chainstitch, a popular type of decorative stitch long used in countries
+all over the world. It was Thimonnier's plan to use this type of hooked
+needle and produce the stitch by machine, employing it both as a
+decorative stitch and a seam-forming one.
+
+In 1825 Thimonnier moved to St. Etienne, where he became completely
+absorbed in the idea of inventing a sewing machine. Ignorant of any of
+the principles of mechanics, he worked alone and in secret for four
+years, neglecting his tailoring business to the extent that neighbors
+looked upon him as peculiar, if not crazy. By 1829 he had not only
+mastered the mechanical difficulties of bringing his dream to
+realization, but also had made the acquaintance of the man who helped
+him to success. Ferrand, of l'Ecole des Mines of Saint-Etienne, became
+interested in the machine and helped finance Thimonnier through his
+trials and disappointments. In 1830 Thimonnier received a patent on his
+machine, which produced the chainstitch by means of a needle shaped like
+a small crochet hook.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 133.--BARTHELEMY THIMONNIER, 1793-1857. From an
+engraving in the _Sewing Machine Advance_, November 15, 1880.
+(Smithsonian photo 10569-A.)]
+
+Thimonnier, together with Ferrand and a M. Beaunier, made attempts to
+introduce his machine in Paris. By 1841 they were successful in having
+eighty of Thimonnier's machines in use sewing army clothing in a shop in
+Paris. But the fears of the tailors could not be quieted. The machines
+were destroyed by an ignorant and infuriated mob, as had been earlier
+labor-saving devices such as the Jacquard attachment for the loom and
+Hargreaves' spinning jenny. Thimonnier was forced to flee to his home in
+St. Etienne, once more penniless.
+
+Soon after this, Jean Marie Magnin, an engineer from
+Villefranche-sur-Saone became interested in Thimonnier's machine and
+provided the inventor again with financial backing. In 1845 under the
+name of Thimonnier and Magnin the patent of 1830 was renewed, and under
+it they organized the first French sewing-machine company. The machines
+they manufactured could produce 200 stitches per minute.
+
+The Revolution of 1848 curtailed the manufacture and sale of the
+machines. Thimonnier, remembering his unpleasant experience in 1841,
+decided to go to England with Magnin, where, on February 8, 1848, they
+received the English patent for his chainstitch machine. He was also
+granted United States patent 7,622 on September 20, 1850. This later
+machine had some advantages over his French machine of 1830, but by this
+time other inventors had joined the field with machines that were more
+practical. Magnin entered a sewing machine (which from the description
+in the catalog must have been Thimonnier's invention) in the Crystal
+Palace Exhibition in London in 1850, but because it was late in arriving
+it was overlooked by the judges and not even considered in the
+competition. Thimonnier died in poverty at Amplepuis on July 5, 1857.
+
+
+WALTER HUNT
+
+Walter Hunt was born near Martinsburg, New York, on July 29, 1796.
+Although little is known of Hunt's early childhood, we do learn from the
+author of his obituary, which appeared in _Scientific American_, July 9,
+1860, that even as a child he was more interested in people and what he
+could do for them than in what he could do to insure his own welfare. He
+is said to have devoted his life to his friends, frequently giving away
+his last cent when he did not have enough to provide for himself.
+
+There is no record that Hunt maintained a regular business other than
+the occupation of inventor. His interests were numerous and varied. He
+received his first patent on June 26, 1826, for a machine for spinning
+flax and hemp. During the next 33 years he patented 26 ideas. In
+addition he sold or dropped several more. His second patent was for a
+coach alarm, and through the years he also received patents for a
+variety of things including a knife sharpener, heating stove, ice boat,
+nail machine, inkwell, fountain pen, safety pin, bottle stopper, sewing
+machine (1854), paper collars, and a reversible metallic heel.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 134.--WALTER HUNT, 1796-1860. From a daguerreotype
+owned by his great-grandson, C. N. Hunt. (Smithsonian photo 32066-A.)]
+
+
+ELIAS HOWE, JR.
+
+Elias Howe, Jr., was born on his father's farm in Spencer,
+Massachusetts, on July 9, 1819. This was one of those barren New England
+farms with many rock-filled acres. All possible ingenuity was necessary
+to secure a living. The elder Howe supplemented his farming by having a
+small gristmill, a sawmill, and also by manufacturing cards for the
+fast-growing cotton industry of New England. Elias Jr.'s earliest
+recollections were of the latter. He worked with his brothers and
+sisters sticking wire teeth into strips of leather to make these cotton
+cards, but, not being very good at this, his family decided to let him
+"live out" with a neighboring farmer. (Children were leased in those
+days; they received their board and keep in exchange for chores they
+would perform.) After a few years, Elias returned home and worked in his
+father's mill until he was sixteen. Then, against the wishes of his
+family, he went to Lowell, Massachusetts. Here, he obtained a learner's
+place in a machine shop where cotton-spinning machinery was made and
+repaired.
+
+In 1837, when a financial panic hit the country, Howe lost his job. He
+then decided to go to Boston, and this marked a turning point in his
+career. In Boston he met Ari Davis, a maker of mariners' instruments and
+scientific apparatus. Howe began to work in Davis' shop, a place to
+which inventors often came to ask advice about their ideas. Davis
+sometimes helped them, but just as often he shouted at them in anger--he
+is said to have been one of the noisiest men in Boston. One day Howe
+overheard his employer bellowing at a man who had brought a knitting
+machine to the shop to seek Davis' advice. "Why are you wasting your
+time over a knitting machine?" said Davis, "Take my advice, try
+something that will pay. Make a sewing machine." "It can't be done," was
+the reply. "Can't be done?" shouted Davis, "Don't tell me that. Why--I
+can make a sewing machine myself." "If you do," interrupted the
+capitalist, "I can make an independent fortune for you." Davis, like
+most men of many words, often talked of more than he planned to do. He
+never attempted to invent a sewing machine.
+
+But the loud voices interested Howe, who, it is said, determined then
+that he would produce a sewing machine and win the fortune that the
+prosperous-looking man had asserted was waiting for such a deed. A kind
+of lameness since birth had made physical tasks painful for Howe, and he
+perhaps felt that this would offer an opportunity to become independent
+of hard physical work.
+
+After marrying on a journeyman machinist's pay of $9 a week, Howe's
+health worsened and by 1843 was so bad that he had to stop work for days
+at a time. His wife was forced to take in sewing to maintain the family.
+It was the sight of his wife toiling at her stitches together with the
+pressure of poverty that recalled to Howe his earlier interest in a
+machine to sew. He decided to make an earnest attempt to invent one.
+Watching his wife for hours at a time, he tried to visualize a machine
+that would duplicate the motions of the arm. After many trials, he
+conceived the idea of using an eye-pointed needle in combination with a
+shuttle to form a stitch. It is possible that, as some authors state,
+the solution appeared to him in a dream, a manifestation of the
+subconscious at work. Others have suggested that he may have learned of
+Hunt's machine. There is a general similarity in the two, not only in
+the combination of eye-pointed needle and shuttle but in the overhanging
+arm and vertical cloth suspension.
+
+After conceiving the idea, whatever his inspiration, Howe determined to
+devote all of his time to producing a working model of his machine.
+Elias' father, who had then started a factory for splitting palm leaves
+in Cambridge, gave him permission to set up a lathe and a few tools in
+the garret of the factory. Elias moved his family to Cambridge. Soon
+after his arrival, unfortunately, the building burned down, and Howe
+despaired of finding a place to work. He had a friend, however, in
+George Fisher, who had just come into a small inheritance, and Howe
+persuaded him to enter into partnership with him for the development of
+the machine. Fisher agreed to board Howe and his family, which now
+included two children, while Howe completed the model. Fisher also
+agreed to supply $500 for material and tools in exchange for a half
+interest in a patent if one was obtained.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 135.--ELIAS HOWE, JR., 1819-1867. From an oil
+painting in the Smithsonian Institution presented by the inventor's
+grandson, Elias Howe Stockwell. (Smithsonian photo 622.)]
+
+At long last Howe was able to spend his full time and concentration on
+building his machine. His family was being fed and had a roof over its
+head. Within a few months Howe had completed a model and by April 1845
+had sewed his first seam (see fig. 14). In July of that year he sewed
+all the principal seams of two suits of wool clothes, one for George
+Fisher and one for himself.
+
+Several efforts were made to solicit public interest in the new machine.
+One was installed in a public hall in Boston, and a tailor was employed
+to operate it at three times the regular wage. The reception was similar
+to that of Thimonnier's: crowds came to see the "contraption," but, when
+Howe tried to interest large clothing establishments in using the
+machine, the protests of the tailors effectively blocked him. He took
+his sewing machine to the Quincy Hall Clothing Manufactory and offered
+to sew up any seams brought to him. Daily he sat in one of the rooms
+demonstrating his machine, and finally he challenged five of the
+swiftest seamstresses there to a race. Ten seams of equal length were
+prepared for stitching. One was given to each of the girls while the
+remaining five were given to Howe. Howe finished his five a little
+sooner than the girls each finished one, and his seams were declared the
+strongest and neatest. (Had any curved or angular work been brought, he
+could not have stitched it.) Still Howe did not receive a single order.
+The fear of throwing hand sewers out of work was again expressed, and,
+in addition, the cost of the machine was said to be too high. When it
+was estimated that a large shirtmaker would have to buy thirty or forty
+such machines, the necessary large investment was dismissed as
+ridiculous.
+
+Howe was not too discouraged. In the meantime, he had finished a second
+machine for deposit with the patent specifications, as the patent laws
+then required. The second was a better made machine (fig. 15) and showed
+several minor changes. As soon as the patent was issued on September 10,
+1846, Howe and his partner returned to Cambridge.
+
+Without the inventor's enthusiasm or love of his own invention, George
+Fisher became thoroughly discouraged. He had boarded Howe and his family
+for nearly two years, had furnished the money needed to purchase the
+tools and materials for making the two sewing machines, had met the
+expense of obtaining the patent and the trip of Howe and himself to
+Washington; representing in all an outlay of practically $2000. Since no
+orders for machines had been received from either garment makers or
+tailors, Fisher did not see the slightest probability of the machine's
+becoming profitable and regarded his advances of cash as a dead loss.
+
+Howe moved back to his father's house with a plan to look elsewhere for
+a chance to introduce the machine. Obtaining a loan from his father, he
+built another machine and sent it to England by his brother Amasa. After
+many discouraging attempts to interest the British, Amasa met William
+Thomas, a manufacturer of umbrellas, corsets, and leather goods. Thomas
+employed many workmen, all of whom stitched by hand, and he immediately
+saw the possibilities of a sewing machine. He proposed that Howe sell
+the machine to him for L250 sterling (about $1250). Thomas further
+proposed to engage the inventor to adapt this machine to the making of
+corsets, at a salary of L3 a week.
+
+When Amasa Howe returned to Cambridge with the news, Elias was reluctant
+to accept Thomas' offer but had nothing better in sight. So the brothers
+sailed for London in February 1847, taking with them Howe's first
+machine and his patent papers. Thomas later advanced the passage money
+for Howe's wife and three children so that they could join Howe in
+England.
+
+At this point, historians disagree on how long Howe was in Thomas'
+employ and whether he succeeded in adapting the machine to meet Thomas'
+needs. He was in England long enough, however, to find himself without
+employment in a strange country, his funds nearly exhausted, and his
+wife ill. He hoped to profit by the notice that his work had received
+and began to build another machine. He sent his family home to reduce
+expenses while he stayed on to finish the machine.
+
+After working on it for three or four months, he was forced to sell it
+for five pounds and to take a note for that. To collect enough for his
+passage home, he sold the note for four pounds cash and pawned his
+precious first machine and his patent papers. He landed in New York in
+April 1849 with but half a crown in his pocket to show for his labors. A
+short time after he arrived, he learned that his wife was desperately
+ill. Only with a loan from his father was he able to reach her side
+before she died. Friends were found to look after the children, and
+Elias returned to work as a journeyman machinist.
+
+Howe discovered, much to his surprise, that during his absence in
+England the sewing machine had become recognized in the United States.
+Several machines made in Boston had been sold to manufacturers and were
+in daily operation. Upon investigating them, he felt that they utilized
+all or part of the invention that he had patented in 1846, and he
+prepared to secure just compensation for its use. The first thing he did
+was to regain his first machine and patent papers from the London
+pawnshop. It was no easy matter for Howe to raise the money, but by
+summer he had managed. It was sent to London with Anson Burlingame, who
+redeemed the loans, and by autumn of the same year the precious
+possessions were back in Howe's hands. Though Howe gained nothing by his
+English experience, William Thomas by his modest expenditure obtained
+all rights to the machine for Great Britain. This later proved to be a
+valuable property.
+
+Howe then began writing letters to those whom he considered patent
+infringers, requesting them to pay a fee or discontinue the manufacture
+of sewing machines which incorporated his patented inventions. Some at
+first were willing to pay the fee, but they were persuaded by the others
+to stand with them and resist Howe. This action forced Howe to the
+courts. With his father's aid he began a suit, but soon found that
+considerably more money than either possessed was necessary for such
+actions. Howe turned once more to George Fisher, but years of investing
+money in Howe's machine without any monetary return had cooled him to
+the idea. Fisher, however, agreed to sell his half interest, and in
+February 1851 George S. Jackson, Daniel C. Johnson, and William E.
+Whiting became joint owners with Howe. These men helped Howe to procure
+witnesses in the furtherance of numerous suits, but more money was
+needed than they could raise. The following year a Massachusetts man by
+the name of George W. Bliss was persuaded to advance the money for the
+heavy legal expenses needed to protect the patent. Bliss did this as a
+speculation and demanded additional security. Once more Elias'
+long-suffering parent came to the rescue and mortgaged his farm to get
+the necessary collateral.
+
+Only one of these suits was prosecuted to a hearing, but this one,
+relatively unimportant in itself, set the precedent. In it the defense
+relied on the earlier invention of Walter Hunt to oppose Howe's claims.
+The defendant succeeded in proving that Hunt invented, perfected, and
+sold two machines in 1834 and 1835 which contained all the essential
+devices in Howe's machine of 1846. But Howe showed that the defendant's
+machine (which was a Blodgett and Lerow) contained some features of
+Howe's machine which were not in Hunt's. The jury decided the case in
+favor of Howe. Howe later fought a vigorous battle with Isaac Singer,
+but after much legal controversy the ultimate decision in that case also
+was in Howe's favor. The suits and payments to each patent holder for
+the right to use his idea were choking the sewing-machine industry. Even
+Howe could not manufacture a practical machine without an infringement.
+Finally an agreement was reached and a "Combination" was formed by the
+major patent holders (see pp. 41-42).
+
+In the meantime, eight years of the first term of Howe's patent had
+expired without producing much revenue. This permitted Howe, upon the
+death of his partner, George Bliss, to buy Bliss' half interest for a
+small sum. He became, then, the sole owner of his patent just as it was
+to bring him a fortune. He obtained a seven-year extension for his
+patent in 1860 without any difficulty, and in 1867, when he applied for
+another extension, he stated that he had received $1,185,000 from it.
+Though he endeavored to show that because of the machine's great value
+to the public he was entitled to receive at least $150,000,000, the
+second application was denied.
+
+During the Civil War, Howe enlisted as a private soldier in the 17th
+Regiment Connecticut Volunteers. He went into the field and served as an
+enlisted man. On occasion when the Government was pressed for funds to
+pay its soldiers, he advanced the money necessary to pay his entire
+regiment.
+
+Howe did not establish a sewing-machine factory until just before his
+death in 1867. One of his early licensees had been his elder brother,
+Amasa, who had organized the Howe Sewing Machine Company about 1853.
+When Elias began manufacturing machines on his own, he sunk into the
+bedplate of each machine a brass medallion bearing his likeness. Elias
+gave his company the same name that his elder brother had used. As this
+had been Amasa's exclusive property for many years, he took the matter
+to the courts where the decision went against Elias. He then organized
+the Howe Machine Company and began to manufacture sewing machines. On
+October 3, 1867, Elias died in Brooklyn, New York, at the home of one of
+his sons-in-law. The company was then carried on by his two sons-in-law,
+who were Stockwell brothers. In 1872 the Howe Sewing Machine Company was
+sold by Amasa's son to the Stockwells' Howe Machine Company, which in
+turn went out of business in the mid-1880s.
+
+
+ALLEN BENJAMIN WILSON
+
+Allen B. Wilson was born in the small town of Willett, Cortlandt County,
+New York, in 1824. At sixteen he was apprenticed to a distant relative,
+a cabinetmaker. Unfortunate circumstances caused him to leave this
+employ, and in 1847 Wilson was in Adrian, Michigan, working as a
+journeyman cabinetmaker. The place and year are important, for it was at
+this time that he conceived his idea of a sewing machine. Because of the
+distant location, it is believed that he was not aware of similar
+efforts being made in New England. Wilson became ill and for many months
+could not work at his trade. By August 1848 he was able to work again
+and found employment at Pittsfield, Massachusetts. Resolving to develop
+his idea of a sewing machine, he worked diligently and by November had
+made full drawings of all the parts, according to his previous
+conceptions.
+
+In comparison to the monetary returns received by the inventors Howe and
+Singer, Wilson himself did not receive as great a monetary reward for
+his outstanding sewing-machine inventions. Because of his health Wilson
+retired in 1853, when the stock company was formed, but he received a
+regular salary and additional money from the patent renewals. Wilson
+petitioned for a second extension of his patents on April 7, 1874,
+stating that, due to his early poverty, he had been compelled to sell a
+half interest in a patent (his first one) for the sum of $200. Also he
+stated that he had not received more than his expenses during the
+original fourteen-year term. Wilson also stated that he had received
+only $137,000 during the first seven-year extension period. These
+figures were verified by his partner. The petition was read before both
+Houses of Congress and referred to the Committee on Patents.[94] There
+was strong feeling against the extension of the Wilson patents. The New
+York _Daily Graphic_, December 30, 1874, reported:
+
+[Illustration: Figure 136.--ALLEN BENJAMIN WILSON, 1824-1888. From a
+drawing owned by the Singer Mfg. Co. Formerly, the drawing was owned by
+the Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co. (Smithsonian photo 32066.)]
+
+     So valuable has been this latter four-motion feed that few or no
+     cloth-sewing machines are now made without it. The joint ownership
+     of this feature of the Wilson patents has served to bind the
+     combination of sewing-machine builders together, and enabled them
+     to defy competition by force of the monopoly. It is this feature
+     which the combination wishes to further monopolize for seven years
+     by act of Congress. The inventor has probably realized millions for
+     his invention. Singer admits that his patents, which are much less
+     important, paid him two millions prior to 1870, since which time he
+     has not been compelled to render an account. The Wilson patents
+     with their extended terms were worth a much larger sum. They have
+     been public property, so far as the feed is concerned, since June
+     15, 1873, and will remain so if too great a pressure is not brought
+     to bear on Congress for their extension. A monopoly of this feed
+     motion for seven years more would be worth from ten to thirty
+     millions to the owner--and would cost the people four times as
+     much.
+
+Wilson had not made the millions for he only received a small percentage
+of the renewals' earnings plus his salary from the patents' owner, the
+Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing Company.
+
+The Congressional Committee on Patents made an adverse report in 1874
+and again in 1875 and 1876, when applications for an extension were
+continued
+
+Wilson died on April 29, 1888.
+
+
+ISAAC MERRITT SINGER
+
+[Illustration: Figure 137.--- ISAAC MERRITT SINGER, 1811-1875. From a
+charcoal drawing owned by the Singer Mfg. Co. (Smithsonian photo
+32066-B)]
+
+Isaac Singer, whose name is known around the world as a manufacturer of
+sewing machines, was the eighth child of poor German immigrants. Isaac
+was born on October 27, 1811, in Pittstown, New York, but most of his
+early life was spent in Oswego. He worked as a mechanic and
+cabinetmaker, but acquired an interest in the theater. Under the name of
+Isaac Merritt, he went to Rochester and became an actor. In 1839, during
+an absence from the theater, he completed his first invention, a
+mechanical excavator, which he sold for $2000. With the money Singer
+organized a theatrical troupe of his own, which he called "The Merritt
+Players." When the group failed in Fredericksburg, Ohio, Singer was
+stranded for lack of funds.
+
+Forced to find some type of employment, Singer took a job in a
+Fredericksburg plant that manufactured wooden printers' type. He quickly
+recognized the need for an improved type-carving machine. After
+inventing and patenting one, he found no financial support in
+Fredericksburg and decided to take the machine to New York City. Here,
+the firm of A. B. Taylor and Co. agreed to furnish the money and give
+Singer room in its Hague Street factory to build machines. A boiler
+explosion destroyed the first machine, and Taylor refused to advance
+more money.
+
+While Singer was with Taylor, George B. Zieber, a bookseller who had
+seen the type-carving machine, considered its value to publishers.
+Zieber offered to help Singer and raised $1700 to build another model.
+In June 1850 the machine was completed. Singer and Zieber took the
+machine to Boston where they rented display space in the steam-powered
+workshop of Orson C. Phelps at 19 Harvard Place. Only a few publishers
+came to look at the machine, and none wanted to buy it.
+
+Singer, contemplating his future, became interested in Phelps' work,
+manufacturing sewing machines for J. A. Lerow and S. C. Blodgett. Phelps
+welcomed Singer's interest as the design of the mechanism was faulty and
+purchasers kept returning the machines for repairs. Singer examined the
+sewing machine with the eyes of a practical machinist. He criticized the
+action of the shuttle, which passed around a circle, and the needle bar,
+which pushed a curved needle horizontally. Singer suggested that the
+shuttle move to and fro in a straight path and that a straight needle be
+used vertically. Phelps encouraged Singer to abandon the type-carving
+machine and turn his energies toward the improvement of the sewing
+machine. Convinced that he could make his ideas work, Singer sketched a
+rough draft of his proposed machine, and with the support of Zieber and
+Phelps the work began.
+
+Singer continued to be active in the sewing-machine business until 1863.
+He made his home in Paris for a short time and then moved to England.
+While living at Torquay he conceived the idea of a fabulous Greco-Roman
+mansion, which he planned to have built at Paignton. Singer called it
+"The Wigwam." Unfortunately, after all his plans, he did not live to see
+its completion. Singer died on July 23, 1875, of heart disease at the
+age of sixty-three.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[93] _The Proceedings and Debates of the 43rd Congress_, First Session,
+1874 Congressional Record, vol. 2, part 3, petition read to the House by
+Mr. Creamer on April 7, 1874. In part 4 of the same, Mr. Buckingham read
+a similar petition to the Senate on May 19, 1874. Both were referred to
+the Committee on Patents; an extension was not granted.
+
+
+
+
+_Bibliography_
+
+
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+     universal cyclopaedia_, New York: D. Appleton and Company, 1895.
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+     [?].
+
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+
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+     1816.
+
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+     Society.]
+
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+     Historical Society, 1886.
+
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+     General Survey_, vol. 1, pp. 293-297. 1867.
+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+     vol. 4, August 1867.
+
+
+
+
+_Indexes_
+
+
+Geographical Index to Companies listed in Appendix II
+
+
+CONNECTICUT
+
+Bridgeport
+  D. W. Clark, 67
+  Jerome B. Secor, 68
+  Goodbody Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Howe Machine Co., 69
+  Secor Machine Co., 72
+  American Hand Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co., 74
+
+Bristol
+  Nettleton & Raymond, 72
+  Watson & Wooster, 73
+
+Danbury
+  Bartram & Fanton Mfg. Co., 66
+
+Hartford
+  Morrison, Wilkinson & Co., 71
+  Weed Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Meriden
+  Fosket and Savage, 68
+  Charles Parker Co., 72
+  Parker Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+Middletown
+  Victor Sewing Machine Co., 73
+
+Norwich
+  Greenman and True Mfg. Co., 69
+
+Waterbury
+  Waterbury Co., 73
+
+West Meriden
+  Parkers, Snow, Brooks & Co., 70
+
+
+DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA
+
+Washington
+  Post Combination Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+
+ILLINOIS
+
+Belleville
+  Thomas M. Cochrane Co., 71
+  J. H. Drew & Co., 71
+
+Belvidere
+  June Mfg. Co., 70
+  National Sewing Machine Co., 71
+
+Chicago
+  Chicago Sewing Machine Co., 67
+  Eldredge Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Free Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Scates, Tryber & Sweetland Mfg., 67
+  Sigwalt Sewing Machine Co., 67, 73
+  H. B. Goodrich, 69
+  June Mfg. Co., 70
+
+Rockford
+  Free Sewing Machine Co., 69
+
+
+MAINE
+
+Biddeford
+  Shaw & Clark Sewing Machine Co., 71, 73
+
+
+MASSACHUSETTS
+
+Boston
+  O. Phelps, 66
+  J. F. Paul & Co., 66
+  Boston Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  Bradford & Barber, mfgs., 66
+  John P. Bowker, 68
+  Empire Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Finkle & Lyon Sewing Machine Co., 68, 73
+  Grover and Baker Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Nichols and Bliss, 69
+  J. B. Nichols & Co., 69
+  Nichols, Leavitt & Co., 69, 70
+  N. Hunt & Co., 70
+  Hunt and Webster, 70
+  Emery, Houghton & Co., 70
+  Ladd, Webster & Co., 70
+  Leavitt & Co., 70
+  Leavitt Sewing Machine Co., 70
+  Safford & Williams Makers, 71
+  C. A. French, 72
+  F. R. Robinson, 72
+  Howard & Davis, 72
+  I. M. Singer & Co., 73
+  Butterfield & Stevens Mfg. Co., 74
+  Williams & Orvis Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Chicopee Falls
+  Shaw & Clark Co., 73
+  Chicopee Sewing Machine Co., 73
+
+Florence
+  Florence Sewing Machine Co., 67, 68
+
+Foxboro
+  Foxboro Rotary Shuttle Co., 68
+
+Lowell
+  Aetna Sewing Machine Co., 65
+
+Lynn
+  Woolridge, Keene and Moore, 67
+
+Orange
+  Gold Medal Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Johnson, Clark & Co., 69, 71, 73
+  Grout & White, 71
+  New Home Sewing Machine Co., 71
+
+Springfield
+  Leader Sewing Machine Co., 70
+  Springfield Sewing Machine Co., 73
+  D. B. Wesson Sewing Machine Co.,74
+
+Winchendon
+  J. G. Folsom, 68, 69, 71
+  William Grout, 71
+
+Worcester
+  Goddard, Rice & Co., 66
+
+
+MICHIGAN
+
+Detroit
+  Decker Mfg. Co., 67
+  C. G. Gardner, 69
+
+
+MISSOURI
+
+St. Louis
+  Wardwell Mfg. Co., 73
+
+
+NEW HAMPSHIRE
+
+Dover
+  O. L. Reynolds Manufacturing Co., 71
+
+Marlboro
+  Thurston Mfg. Co., 67
+
+Mason Village
+  Franklin Sewing Machine Co., 68
+
+
+NEW JERSEY
+
+Elizabethport
+  Singer Mfg. Co. (manufactory, not office), 73
+
+Paterson
+  Whitney Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+
+NEW YORK
+
+Binghamton
+  Independent Sewing Machine Co., 70
+
+Brooklyn
+  J. H. Lester, 70
+  G. L. Du Laney, 70
+
+Ithaca
+  Aiken and Felthousen (patentees), 65
+  American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co., 65
+  Clinton Brothers, 67
+  T. C. Thompson, 73
+
+New York
+  Avery Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  A. Bartholf, mfg., 66
+  Bartholf Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  Bartlett Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  Barlow & Son, 66
+  Beckwith Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  J. A. Davis, 67
+  Demorest Mfg. Co., 67
+  Charles A. Durgin, 68
+  Elliptic Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Eureka Shuttle Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Excelsior Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Madame Demorest, 68
+  First and Frost, 68
+  L. Griswold, 69
+  Howe Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Thos. A. Macauley Mfg., 70
+  New York Sewing Machine Co., 71
+  T. W. Robertson, 72
+  I. M. Singer & Co., 73
+  Singer Mfg. Co., 73
+  Standard Shuttle Sewing Machine Co., 73
+  Henry Stewart & Co., 73
+  Stewart Mfg. Co., 73
+  E. E. Lee & Co., 74
+  Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Watertown
+  Davis Sewing Machine Co., 67
+  Wheeler, Wilson & Co., 74
+
+Westmoreland
+  A. B. Buell, 67
+
+
+OHIO
+
+Cleveland
+  Wilson (W. G.) Sewing Machine Co., 66, 74
+  Domestic Sewing Machine Co. (after 1924), 67
+  Leslie Sewing Machine Co., 70
+  Standard Sewing Machine Co., 73
+  White Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Dayton
+  Davis Sewing Machine Co., 67
+
+Elyria
+  West & Willson Co., 74
+
+Norwalk
+  Dauntless Mfg. Co., 67, 72
+  Wm. A. Mack & Co., and N. S. Perkins, 67
+  Domestic Sewing Machine Co., 67, 70
+
+Springfield
+  Royal Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  St. John Sewing Machine Co., 73
+
+Toledo
+  Jewel Mfg. Co., 70
+
+
+PENNSYLVANIA
+
+Erie
+  Noble Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+Philadelphia
+  American Buttonhole, Overseaming and Sewing Machine Co., 65
+  Centennial Sewing Machine Co., 67
+  George B. Sloat and Co., 68
+  Rex & Bockius, 69
+  Grant Bros. & Co., 69
+  B. W. Lacey & Co., 71
+  Parham Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  Philadelphia Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  Quaker City Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  E. Remington & Sons, 72
+  Taggart & Farr, 73
+
+Pittsburgh
+  Love Mfg. Co., 70
+
+
+RHODE ISLAND
+
+Providence
+  Household Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Providence Tool Co., 69
+
+
+VERMONT
+
+Brattleboro
+  Samuel Barker and Thomas White, 66
+  Brattleboro Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Estey Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Higby Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Nettleton & Raymond (Charles Raymond), 71
+
+Windsor
+  Lamson, Goodnow & Yale, 67, 74
+  Vermont Arms Co., 74
+
+
+VIRGINIA
+
+Richmond
+  Lester Mfg. Co., 70
+  Union Sewing Machine Co., 68, 70
+  Old Dominion Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+
+WISCONSIN
+
+Milwaukee
+  Whitehill Mfg. Co., 74
+
+
+Alphabetical Index to Patentees listed in Appendix III
+
+
+Abercrombi, Charles, 520977
+
+Abbott, W. W., 252984
+
+Adams, John Q., 92138
+
+Alexander, Elisa, 16518
+
+Ambler, D. C., 11884
+
+Angell, Benjamin J., 19285
+
+Applegate, John H., and Webb, Charles B., 177784
+
+Appleton, C. J., and Sibley, J. J., 179440
+
+Arnold, B., 86121, 138981, 138982
+
+Arnold, G. B. and A., 30112
+
+Arnold, G. B., 28139
+
+Atwater, B., 44063
+
+Atwood, J. E., 22273
+
+Atwood, K. C., 194759
+
+Atwood, J. E., J. C., and O., 19903
+
+Avery, Otis, 9338, 10880
+
+Avery, O. and Z. W., 22007
+
+
+Bachelder, J., 6439
+
+Baglin, William, 154113
+
+Baker, G. W., 70152, 125374, 130005
+
+Baldwin, Cyrus W., 38276
+
+Banks, C. M., 225784
+
+Barcellos, D., 203102
+
+Barnes, M. M., 106307
+
+Barnes, William T., 20688, 25084, 25876
+
+Barney, Samuel C., 156119
+
+Barrett, O. D., 25785
+
+Bartholf, Abraham, 19823
+
+Bartlett, Joseph W., 46064, 76385
+
+Bartlett, Joseph W., and Plant, Frederick, 159065
+
+Barton, Kate C., 182096
+
+Bartram, W. B., 54670, 54671, 60669, 62520, 83592, 104247, 130557
+
+Bates, W. G., assignor to Johnson, William H., 9592
+
+Bayley, C. H., 212122
+
+Bean, Benjamin W., 2982
+
+Bean, E. E., 28144
+
+Beardslee, W. F., 245781
+
+Beck, August, 190184, 196863
+
+Beckwith, William G., 126921, 133351, 167382
+
+Behn, Henry, 18071, 18880
+
+Belcher, C. D., 16710
+
+Benedict, C. P., 83596
+
+Bennett, Frank Howard, and Dowling, James, 409728
+
+Bennor, Joseph, 106249
+
+Benson, George, 238556
+
+Beukler, William, 204704
+
+Beuttel, Charles, 115155
+
+Bigelow, J., 263467
+
+Billings, C. E., 88603
+
+Bishop, H. H., 22226
+
+Black, Samuel S., 146642
+
+Blake, Lyman R., 20775, 74289
+
+Blanchard, Helen A., 141987
+
+Bland, Henry, 216016, 221505
+
+Blodgett, S. C, 15469, 21465
+
+Blodgett, John W., 279320
+
+Boecher, Adam, 300199
+
+Bond, Joseph Jr., 12939, 93588, 189599
+
+Booth, Ezekiel, 25087
+
+Boppel, Jacob, 396979
+
+Borton, S., 214089
+
+Borton, Stockton, and Willcox, Charles H., 255576, 255577, 255580, 255581
+
+Bosworth, C. F., 19979, 38807, 122555, 199500, 216504
+
+Bounaz, A., 83909, 83910
+
+Bouscay, Eloi, Jr., 127145
+
+Bowyer, J. T., 454708
+
+Boyd, A. H., 19171, 24003, 31864
+
+Bracher, T. W., 221508
+
+Bradeen, J. G., 9380
+
+Bradford, E. F. and Pierce, V. R., 177371
+
+Braundbeck, E., 127675
+
+Brewer, A. G., 152894
+
+Briggs, Thomas, 198790
+
+Brown, F. H., 94389, 102366, 131735, 193477
+
+Bruen, J. T., 31208
+
+Bruen, L. B., 68839
+
+Budlong, William G., 25946
+
+Buell, J. S., 25381
+
+Buhr, Johannes, 151272
+
+Burnet, S. S. and Broderick, W., 22160
+
+Burr, Theodore, 32023
+
+Butcher, Joseph, 180542, 233657
+
+
+Cadwell, Caleb, 45972, 71131
+
+Cajar, Emil, 50299, 61711
+
+Cameron, James W., 272527
+
+Campbell, Duncan H., 241612, 241613
+
+Canfield, F. P., 86057
+
+Carhart, Peter S., 24098
+
+Carlisle, W. S., 270540
+
+Carpenter, Lunan, 20990
+
+Carpenter, Mary P., 112016
+
+Carpenter, William, 87633
+
+Carr, William H. and Ostrom, F. W., 303361
+
+Case, George F., 33029
+
+Cately, William H., 56902
+
+Chamberlain, J. N., 28452
+
+Chandler, Rufus, 133757, 139368
+
+Charmbury, H., 316745
+
+Chase, M., 113498
+
+Chilcott, J. and Scrimgeour, J., 12856
+
+Chittenden, H. H., 43289
+
+Choquette, A. E., 244033
+
+Clark, David W., 19015, 19072, 19129, 19409, 19732, 20481, 21322, 23823
+
+Clark, Edwin, 26336
+
+Clark, Edwin E., 74751
+
+Clements, James M., 57451
+
+Cleminshaw, S., 128363, 213391
+
+Clever, P. J., 96886
+
+Clever, Peter J., 296529
+
+Coates, F. S., 19684
+
+Cole, W. H., 79447
+
+Conant, J. S., 12233
+
+Conklin, N. A., 206774
+
+Cook, Hugo, 454610
+
+Cooney, W., 102226
+
+Corbett, E. and Harlow, C. F., 192568
+
+Corey, J. W., 198970
+
+Corliss, George H., 3389
+
+Cornely, E., 73696
+
+Cornely, Emile, 219225
+
+Craige, E. H., 62186, 67635
+
+Crane, Thomas, 150532
+
+Crosby, C. O., 50225, 90507
+
+Crosby, C. O. and Kellogg, H., 37033
+
+Cummins, William G., 187822
+
+Curtis, G. H. W., 228985
+
+Cushman, C. S., 142442, 184594
+
+
+Dale, John D., 44686
+
+Dancel, Christian, 199802
+
+Darling and Darling, 163639
+
+Davis, Job A., 27208, 58614
+
+Derocquigny, A. C. F., Gance, D., and Hanzo, L., 34748
+
+Deschamps, O. L., 253915
+
+Destouy, Auguste, 56729
+
+Dewees, John W., 432746
+
+Dickinson, C. W., 26346
+
+Diehl, Philipp, 339623, 347776, 347777, 348113
+
+Dieterle, H. E., 353542
+
+Dimmock, Martial and  Rixford, Nathan, 19135
+
+Dimond, George H., 196198, 207400
+
+Dinsmore, Alfred S., 160512, 231155
+
+Dinsmore, A. S., and Carter, John T., 152618
+
+Doll, Arnold, 68420
+
+Dopp, H. W., 27279
+
+Dowling, James, and Connolly, John, 299118
+
+Drake, Ellis, 155932
+
+Duchemin, William, 59715, 91101, 135032, 288929
+
+Dunbar, C. F., 88282
+
+Durgin, Charles A., 12902
+
+
+Earle, T., 31156
+
+Eickemeyer, Rudolf, 52698, 182182, 239319
+
+Elderfield, F. D., 204429
+
+Eldridge, G. W., 87331
+
+Elliott, F., 85918
+
+Emerson, John, 50989
+
+Emswiler, J. B., 25002
+
+Esty, William, 187837
+
+
+Fales, J. F., 74328
+
+Fanning, John, 72829, 129013
+
+Farr, Chester N., 25004
+
+Farrar, Arthur, 309837
+
+Fetter, George, 18793, 19059
+
+Fish, Warren L., 123625
+
+Fletcher, James N., 443756
+
+Follett, Joseph L., 189446
+
+Fosket, William A., and Savage, Elliot,  22719, 25963
+
+French, Stephen, 80345
+
+Frese, B., 172308
+
+Fuller, H. W., 63033
+
+Fuller, William M., 32496
+
+
+Garland, H. P., 159812, 169163
+
+Gee, W. V., 361406
+
+Gibbs, James E. A., 16234, 16434, 17427, 21129, 21751, 27214, 28851
+
+Gird, E. D., 87559
+
+Goodes, E. A., 136718, 147387
+
+Goodspeed, G. N., 54816
+
+Goodwin, Julius C., 450793
+
+Goodwyn, H. H., 24455
+
+Goodyear, Charles Jr., 111197, 116947
+
+Gordon, James, and Kinert, William, 125807
+
+Gray, Joshua, 16566, 19665, 24022, 95581
+
+Green, George F., 238678
+
+Greenough, John J., 2466
+
+Gritzner, M. C., 44720, 76323
+
+Gritzner, Max C., 243444
+
+Grote, F. W., 38447
+
+Grout, William, 24629
+
+Grover, William O., 14956, 33778, 36405, 100139
+
+Grover, William O., and Baker, William E., 7931
+
+Guinness, William S., 41916
+
+Gullrandsen, P. E., and Rettinger, J. C., 180225
+
+Gutmann, Julius, 90528
+
+
+Halbert, A. W., 76076
+
+Hall, William, 24870
+
+Hale, William S., 36084
+
+Hall, Luther, 43404
+
+Hall, L., 105329
+
+Hall, John S., 168637, 187006
+
+Hallenbeck, J. P., 425422
+
+Hallett, H. H., 191584
+
+Hamm, E., 219578
+
+Hancock, Henry J., 83492, 112033
+
+Hanlon, John, 52847
+
+Happe, J., and Newman, W., 130715, 137199
+
+Hardie, J. W., 30854
+
+Harris, Daniel, 17508, 17571
+
+Harris, David, 185228
+
+Harrison, J. Jr., 10763, 13616, 25013, 25262
+
+Hart, William, 50469
+
+Hayes, James, 55029
+
+Hayden, H. W., 24937
+
+Heberling, J., 204604, 227249, 227525, 284300
+
+Hecht, A., 50473
+
+Heery, Luke, 94740
+
+Heidenthal, William, 127765
+
+Helwig, Arthur, 350364
+
+Hendrick, Joseph E., 19660, 21722
+
+Hendrickson, E. M., 34330
+
+Henriksen, H. P., 104590, 188515, 215615
+
+Hensel, George, 24737
+
+Herron, A. C., 20557
+
+Hesse, Joseph, 235085
+
+Heyer, W. D., 40622
+
+Heyer, Frederick, 30731
+
+Hicks, William C., 26035, 29268
+
+Hinkley, Jonas, 25231
+
+Hinds, Jesse L., 131166
+
+Hine, Charles M., 420382
+
+Hine, Charlie M., 246136
+
+Hodgkins, Christopher, 9365, 33085, 69666
+
+Hoefler, J., 246883
+
+Hoffman, George W., 94112
+
+Hoffman, Clara P., and Meyers, Nicholas, 207035
+
+Holden, O. J., and Griswold, L., 272050
+
+Hollowell, J. G., 27624
+
+Holly, Birdsill, 28176
+
+Hook, Albert H., 22179, 24027
+
+Horr, Addison D., 149862
+
+House, James A., 206239
+
+House, James A., and House, Henry A., 36932, 39442, 39445, 55865, 87338, 114294
+
+Howard, C. W., 126056, 126057
+
+Howard, T. S. L., 199206
+
+Howard, E. L., 154485
+
+Howard, E., and Jackson, W. H., 103745
+
+Howe, Amasa Bemis, 37913
+
+Howe, Elias, 4750, 16436
+
+Hubbard, George W., 18904, 21537
+
+Hull, E. H., 254217
+
+Humphrey, D. W. G., 36617, 49627
+
+Hunt, Walter, 11161
+
+Huntington, Thomas S., 158214
+
+Hurtu, Auguste J., 258761, 315037
+
+Hurtu, Auguste J., and Hautin, Victor J., 98064
+
+
+Ingalls, N., Jr., 212602
+
+
+Jackson, Francis, 519064
+
+Jackson, William, 181941
+
+Jacob, Frederick, 190047
+
+Jencks, G. L., 74694
+
+Jennings, L., 16237
+
+Johnson, Albert F., 16387, 20686, 26948
+
+Johnson, W. H., 10597
+
+Jones, John T., 86163, 117640, 169106
+
+Jones, Samuel H., 140631
+
+Jones, Solomon, 118537, 118538
+
+Jones, William, and Haughian, P., 32297
+
+Juengst, George, 27132, 228820
+
+Junker, Carl, 217112
+
+
+Kallmeyer, G., 137689
+
+Keats, Alphonso, 260990
+
+Keats, John, 198120
+
+Keats, John; Greenwood, Arthur; and Keats, Alphonso, 171622
+
+Keats, John, and Clark. Wm. S., 50995
+
+Keith, Jeremiah, 97518, 170741, 196809, 209126, 243710
+
+Keith, T. H., 196909
+
+Keith, T. K., 170955
+
+Kelsey, D., 24939
+
+Kendall, George F., 101887
+
+Kern, Ferdinand, 479369
+
+Kilbourn, E. E., 59746
+
+Kjalman, H. N., 235783
+
+Knoch, Charles F., 183400
+
+Koch, William, 262298
+
+Koch, Friederich, and Brass, Robert, 138898, 145215
+
+
+Lamb, Isaac W., 109632
+
+Lamb, Thomas, 98390, 118728
+
+Lamb, Thomas, and Allen, John, 49421
+
+Lamson, Henry P., 79579
+
+Landfear, William R., 109427, 155193
+
+Langdon, Leander W., 13727, 39256
+
+Lathbury, E. T., 17744
+
+Lathrop, Lebbeus W., 139067
+
+Lathrop, Lebbeus W., and de Sanno, William P., 40446
+
+Lawrence, G. H., 290895
+
+Lazelle, W. H., 18915
+
+Leavitte, Albert, 171147
+
+Leavitt, Rufus, 30634
+
+Leavitt, Albert, and Drew, Henry L., 187874
+
+Legat, D. M., 218388
+
+Legg, Albert, and Weston, Charles W., 474840
+
+Leslie, A. M., 241808
+
+Leyden, Austin, 57157
+
+Lingley, John W., 368538
+
+Lipe, C. E., 229322
+
+Lisle, Myron C., 428171
+
+Ludeke, Waldemar, 275506, 300380
+
+Lyon, Lucius, 89489, 96713, 105820
+
+Lyon, W., 12066
+
+
+Macauley, F. A., 195939
+
+Mack, William A., 38592
+
+Mallary, G. H., 31897
+
+Mann, Charles, 33556
+
+Marble, F. E., 33439
+
+Marin, Charles, 179709
+
+Martin, W., Jr.; Dawson, D. R.; and Orchar, R., 206743
+
+Martine, Charles F., 104612
+
+Meyers, Nicholas, 99783
+
+Melhuish, R. M., 194610
+
+McCloskey, John, 55688, 161534
+
+McClure, A. T., 130385
+
+McKay, Gordon, and Blake, Lyman, 42916
+
+McKay, Gordon, 188809
+
+McLean, J. N., 88499
+
+McCombs, George F., 208407
+
+McCurdy, James S., 24395, 26234, 28097, 28993, 36256, 38931, 46303, 53743
+
+Miehling, Charles, 351992
+
+Miller, Charles, 9139, 26462
+
+Miller, Westley, 20763
+
+Miller, Lebbens B., and Diehl, Philipp, 229629, 274359
+
+Mills, Daniel, 96944, 265850, 313359
+
+Mooney, John H., 222298, 244470
+
+Moore, Charles, 21015
+
+Moreau, Eugene, 110669, 156171
+
+Morley, J. H., 228918, 236350
+
+Morrell, R. W.; Parkinson, T.; Parkinson, J., 202857
+
+Morrison, T. W., 216289
+
+Muegge, C. A., 332207
+
+Mueller, H., 28996
+
+Muir, William, 147152
+
+Murphy, E., 176880
+
+
+Nasch, Isidor, 104630
+
+Necker, Carl, 117101
+
+Nettleton, William H., and Raymond, Charles, 17049, 18350
+
+Newell, George F., 242470
+
+Newlove, Thomas, 27761
+
+Norton, B. F., 32782
+
+
+O'Neil, John, 137618
+
+Oram, Henry, 185952
+
+Osborne, J. H., 224219
+
+Otis, S. L., 221093
+
+Osterhout, James A., and Hallenbeck, Joseph P., 402610
+
+
+Page, Charles, 96343, 150479
+
+Paine, A. R., 27412
+
+Palmateer, William A., 187479
+
+Palmer, Aaron, 35252
+
+Palmer, C. H., 38450, 124694, 240758
+
+Palmer, Frank L., 185954
+
+Palmer, John H., 298228
+
+Parham, Charles, 109443, 135579
+
+Parker, Sidney, 19662, 24780
+
+Parks, Volney, 129981
+
+Parmenter, Charles O., 212495
+
+Payne, R. S., 30641
+
+Pearson, M. H., 199991
+
+Pearson, William, 26201
+
+Pearson, William, 166805, 172478
+
+Perry, James, 22148
+
+Piper, D. B., 56990
+
+Pipo, John A., 37550
+
+Pitt, James; Joseph; Edward; and William, 117203
+
+Planer, Louis, 43927
+
+Porter, D. A., 144864
+
+Porter, Alonzo, 99704
+
+Porter, D'Arcy, and Baker, George W., 174703
+
+Powell, Thomas, 442695
+
+Pratt, Samuel F., 16745, 22240
+
+
+Ragan, Daniel, 137321
+
+Ramsden, John W., 262116
+
+Randel, William, 192008
+
+Rayer, William A., and Lincoln, William S., 108827
+
+Raymond, Charles, 19612, 22220, 32785, 32925
+
+Reed, T. K., 60241, 62287
+
+Rehfuss, George, 40311, 51086, 61102, 73119
+
+Reynolds, O. S., 19793
+
+Rice, T. M., 176686
+
+Rice, Quartus, 31429
+
+Richards, Jean E., 252799
+
+Richardson, E. F., 145687
+
+Richardson, Everett P., 146948, 165506
+
+Roberts, William, 254696
+
+Robertson, T. J. W., 12015
+
+Robinson, Charles E., 110790
+
+Robinson, Frederick R., 7824
+
+Rodier, Peter, 59659
+
+Roper, S. H., 11531, 16026, 18522
+
+Rose, Israel M., 28814, 31628
+
+Rose, Reubin M., 170596
+
+Rosenthal, Sally Adolph, 353970
+
+Ross, Noble G., 31829
+
+Ross, J. G., and Miller, T. L., 138764
+
+Rowe, James, 26638, 27260
+
+Ruddick, H., 28538
+
+Rudolph, Bruno, 99481
+
+Rudolph, Ernst B. (deceased), Boulter, W. E. (administrator), 449927
+
+Russell, W. W., 86695
+
+
+Sage, William, 17717
+
+Sangster, Amos W., 21929
+
+Savage, Elliott, 19876
+
+Sawyer, Irvin P., and Alsop, T., 25918
+
+Sawyer, Sylvanus, and Esty, William, 174159
+
+Schmidt, Albert E., 162697
+
+Schwalback, M., 56805
+
+Scofield, Charles, 26059
+
+Scofield, Charles, and Rice, Clarke, 28610
+
+Scribner, Benjamin, Jr., 146483
+
+Secor, J. B., 253772
+
+Sedmihradsky, A. J., 196486
+
+Shaw, E., 230580
+
+Shaw, Philander, 11680
+
+Shaw, A. B., 37202
+
+Shaw, Henry L., 32007
+
+Shaw and Clark, 38246
+
+Sheffield, G. V., 135047
+
+Shorey, Samuel W., 148765
+
+Sibley, J. J., 42117
+
+Sidenberg, William, 112745, 115117
+
+Simmons, Frederick, 216902
+
+Simmons, A. G., and Scofield, C., 41790
+
+Singer, Isaac M., 8294, 10975, 12364, 13065, 13661, 13662, 14475, 60433, 61270
+
+Smalley, J., 27577
+
+Smith, DeWitt C., 45528
+
+Smith, E. H., 20739, 21089, 96160
+
+Smith, H. B., 12247
+
+Smith, J. M., 31334
+
+Smith, Lewis H., 31411, 32385
+
+Smith, John C., 34988
+
+Smith, James H., 148902
+
+Smith, Wilson H., 28785
+
+Smith, W. M., 225199
+
+Smith, William T., 99743
+
+Smyth, D. M., 126845, 234732
+
+Snediker, J. F., 222089
+
+Snyder, Watson, 22987
+
+Spencer, James C., 24061
+
+Spencer, James H., and Lamb, Thomas, 22137
+
+Speirs, John, 152813
+
+Spoehr, F., 101779
+
+Springer, William A., 128919, 142290, 147441
+
+Stackpole, G., and Applegate, J. H., 220314
+
+Stannard, M., 64184
+
+Stedman, G. W., 12074, 12573, 12798, 13856
+
+Stein, M. J., 81956, 113593
+
+Stevens, George, and Hendy, Joshua, 111488
+
+Steward, A., 207454
+
+Stewart, James, Jr., 141397, 432449
+
+Stewart, W. T., 205698
+
+Stoakes, J. W., 32456
+
+Sullivan, John J., 179232
+
+Sutton, William A., 29202
+
+Swartwout, H. L., 89357
+
+Swingle, A., 14207
+
+
+Taft, J. C., 547866
+
+Tapley, G. S., 25059
+
+Tarbox, John N., 49803
+
+Tate, William J., 113704
+
+Taylor, F. B., 146721
+
+Temple, John, 358088
+
+Thayer, Augustus, 172205
+
+Thimonnier, E., and Vernaz, C., 287592
+
+Thomas, Joseph, 330170
+
+Thomas, J., 236466
+
+Thompson, J., 27082
+
+Thompson, T. C., 9641
+
+Thompson, Rosewell, 34926, 42449
+
+Thurston, C. H., 233300
+
+Tittman, Alexander, 89093, 136792
+
+Toll, Charles F., 171193
+
+Tracy, Dwight, 30012
+
+Tracy, Dwight, and Hobbs, George, 40000
+
+Trip, J., 308711
+
+True, Cyrus B., 148336
+
+Tucker, R. D., 320898
+
+Tucker, Joseph C., 56641
+
+Turner, M. G., 312306
+
+Turner, S. S., 133553
+
+Tuttle, J. W., and Keith, T. K., 219782
+
+Thompson, George, 115255
+
+
+Uhlinger, W. P., 21224
+
+Upson, L. A., 176153
+
+
+Van Vechten, O. R., 302063
+
+Varicas, L., 204864
+
+Venner, O., 133814
+
+Veukler, W., 255916
+
+
+Wagener, Jeptha A., 40296
+
+Walker, William, 141407, 176101, 320099, 353720
+
+Walker and Bennet, 428548
+
+Ward, D. T., 12146
+
+Wardwell, Simon W., Jr., 128684, 141245, 148339
+
+Warth, Albin, 56646, 73064
+
+Washburn, T. S., 30031
+
+Waterbury, Enos, 79037
+
+Watson, William C., 14433, 18834
+
+Weber, Theodore A., 145823, 166236
+
+Webb, T., and Heartfield, C. H., 213537
+
+Webster, W., 182249, 402497
+
+Weitling, W., 37931, 45777
+
+Wells, W. W., 209843
+
+Wensley, James, 152055, 207230
+
+West, Elliott P., 117708, 130674, 138772
+
+West, H. B., and Willson, H. F., 20753
+
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, 420847
+
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, and Dial, Wilbur F., 328165
+
+Wheeler, Darius, and Carpenter, Lunan, 21100
+
+Whitehill, Robert, 166172
+
+Wickersham, William, 9679, 18068, 18069
+
+Wilder, M. G., 32323
+
+Wilkins, J. N., 36591
+
+Wilkinson, Charles E., 269251
+
+Willcox, Charles H., 42036, 43819, 44490, 44491, 218413, 230212, 246700
+
+Willcox, C. H., and Borton, S., 472094
+
+Willcox, C. H., and Carleton, C., 116521, 116523, 116783
+
+Wilson, Allen B., 7776, 8296, 9041
+
+Wiseman, Edmund, 228711
+
+Witherspoon, S. A., 176211
+
+Winter, William, 88936
+
+Wollenberg, H., and Priesner, J., 206848
+
+Wood, John, 185811
+
+Wood, Richard G., 207928
+
+Woodruff, George B., and Browning, George, 97014
+
+Woodward, E., 247285
+
+Woodward, F. G., 25782
+
+Woodward, Erastus, and Keith, Thomas K., 316927
+
+Wormald, William, and Dobson, Edmund, 169881
+
+
+Young, E. S., and Dimond, G. H., 206992
+
+
+General Index to Chapters 1-4
+
+
+Adams and Dodge, 9
+
+Aetna Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+American Buttonhole and Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Archbold, Thomas, 13
+
+Arrowsmith, George A., 11
+
+
+Bachelder, John, 22, 30, 34, 41, 42
+
+Baker, William E., 36 (_see_ Grover & Baker)
+
+Bartholf, A., 24, 40
+
+Bartlett Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Bartram & Fanton Manufacturing Company, 40
+
+Bean, Benjamin W., 13, 14, 15
+
+Blees Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Bliss, George, 24
+
+Blodgett and Lerow, 24, 26, 30
+
+Blodgett, Sherbrune C., 25
+
+Bradshaw, John A., 21, 22, 26, 27
+
+Brown, W. N., 50
+
+
+Centennial Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Chapman, Edward Walter, 7, 19
+
+Chapman, William, 7
+
+Clark, D. W., 47, 49
+
+Clark, Edward, 33, 34, 35
+
+Combination, Sewing-Machine, 23, 24, 38, 41-42, 47, 48
+
+Conant, Jotham S., 22
+
+Corliss, George H., 14, 15, 16
+
+
+Dale, John D., 54
+
+Davis, Ari, 19
+
+Davis Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Demorest, Madame, 53
+
+Dodge, Rev. John Adam, 9
+
+Domestic Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Duncan, John, 6, 19
+
+
+Elliptic Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Ellithorp, S. B., 51
+
+Ellithorp & Fox, 51
+
+Empire Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Fairy Sewing Machine, 53
+
+Family Sewing Machine (Singer), 35
+
+Finkle & Lyon Manufacturing Company, 40
+
+Fisher, George, 19
+
+Fisher, John, 15, 16
+
+Florence Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Folsom, J. G., 40
+
+
+Gibbons, James, 15
+
+Gibbs, James E. A., 45, 48
+
+Goddard, Rice & Co., 25
+
+Gold Medal Sewing Machine Company, 40, 53
+
+Goodspeed & Wyman Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Grasshopper, The, 35
+
+Greenough, John J., 13, 14
+
+Grover & Baker Sewing Machine Company, 24, 35, 37, 38, 40, 41
+
+Grover, William O., 35, 38
+
+
+Heberling, John, 54
+
+Henderson, James, 6
+
+Hendrick, Joseph, 49
+
+Heyer, W. D., 52
+
+Hook, Albert H., 50
+
+Howe, Amasa B., 24
+
+Howe, Elias, Jr., 11, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 28, 29, 33, 34, 41,
+  42, 138 (biographical sketch)
+
+Howe Machine Company (Elias), 25
+
+Howe Sewing Machine Company (Amasa, then B. P.), 24, 25, 40
+
+Hunt, Walter, 10, 11, 19, 33, 138 (biographical sketch)
+
+
+Jenny Lind (sewing machine), 30
+
+Johnson, Joseph B., 22
+
+
+Keystone Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Kline, A. P., 27
+
+Knowles, John, 9
+
+Krems, Balthasar, 7, 19
+
+Ladd & Webster Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Leavitt Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Lee, Edward, 27
+
+Lee, E. & Co., 27, 28
+
+Lerow, John A., 24, 25
+
+Little Gem, 53
+
+London Sewing Machine, 22
+
+Lye, Henry, 9
+
+
+McKay Sewing Machine Association, 40
+
+Madersperger, Josef, 8, 9, 12, 13
+
+Magnin, Jean Marie, 11, 22
+
+Mason, The Honorable Charles, 13
+
+Morey, Charles, 22
+
+Morey & Johnson, 23, 34, 42
+
+
+Newton, Edward, 13
+
+Nichols and Bliss, 24
+
+
+Palmer, Aaron, 52
+
+Parham Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Perry, James, 49
+
+Phelps, Orson C., 25, 30, 31
+
+Potter, Orlando B., 37, 38, 41
+
+
+Remington Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Robertson, T. J. W., 47
+
+Rodgers, James, 15
+
+
+Safford & Williams Makers, 22
+
+Saint, Thomas, 4, 5, 19
+
+Secor Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Shaw & Clark Sewing Machine Co., 40, 54
+
+Singer, Isaac Merritt, 23, 25, 30, 31, 33, 34, 35, 41, 142
+  (biographical sketch)
+
+Singer, I. M. Company, 13, 32, 34, 40
+
+Singer Manufacturing Co., 30, 40, 42
+
+Singer's Perpendicular Action Sewing Machine, 30, 31
+
+Stone, Thomas, 6
+
+Thimonnier, Barthelemy, 11, 19, 137 (biographical sketch)
+
+Thomas, William, 20
+
+Thompson, C. F., 40
+
+Turtleback Machine (Singer), 35
+
+
+Union Buttonhole Machine Company, 40
+
+
+Warren and Woodruff, 28
+
+Weatherill, Jacob, 37
+
+Weed Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Weisenthal, Charles F., 4, 19
+
+Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Company, 22, 29, 30, 40
+
+Wheeler, Wilson and Company, 24, 28, 41
+
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, 27, 28
+
+Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Company, 40, 46, 48
+
+Willcox, Charles, 46, 48
+
+Willcox, James, 46
+
+Wilson, Allen Benjamin, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 141 (biographical sketch).
+  (_See_ Wheeler & Wilson.)
+
+Wilson, Newton, 4
+
+Wilson, (W. G.), Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Woolridge, Keene, and Moore, 24
+
+
+Zieber, George, 30, 33
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+
+Table layouts have been changed to avoid very long line lengths.
+Footnotes have been moved to Chapter ends. Minor punctuation errors have
+been corrected without note. The following typographical errors have
+been corrected/noted:
+
+  Footnote 9 "Praktisches Wissen von der Naehmaschine."--was "Praktisches
+              wissen von der Naehmaschine."
+  p. 11      "a loop in the other"--was "a loop in the the other"
+  p. 19      "chainstitch, Thimonnier used"--was "chainstitch, Thimmonier
+              used"
+  p. 76      "known to be in existence is"--was "known to be in eixstence is"
+  p. 80      "7501-12500, 1873;"--was "7501-12500, 8173;"
+  p. 119     "shaped like an open [?] into which"--A letter or symbol appears
+              to be missing in the original between open and into.
+  p. 119     "181161-220318"--overlaps range of previous entry.
+  p. 130     "June 30, 1874 |152,618"--was "Jan. 30, 1874 |152,618"
+  p. 138     "Villefranche-sur-Saone"--was "Ville-franche-sur-Saone"
+  p. 145     "Praktisches Wissen von der Naehmaschine."--was "Praktisches
+              wissin von der Naehmaschine."
+  p. 153     "O'Neil, John, 137618"--was "O'Niel, John, 137618"
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Invention of the Sewing Machine, by
+Grace Rogers Cooper
+
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