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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Invention of the Sewing Machine, by 
+Grace Rogers Cooper
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Invention of the Sewing Machine
+
+Author: Grace Rogers Cooper
+
+Release Date: June 4, 2010 [EBook #32677]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Joseph Cooper, Louise Pattison
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
+UNITED STATES NATIONAL MUSEUM
+
+[Illustration]
+
+BULLETIN 254
+
+WASHINGTON, D.C.
+
+1968
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION PRESS
+
+
+
+
+_The Invention
+Of the Sewing Machine_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Grace Rogers Cooper_
+
+CURATOR OF TEXTILES
+MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY
+
+SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D.C. 1968
+
+
+
+
+_Publications of the United States National Museum_
+
+
+The scholarly and scientific publications of the United States National
+Museum include two series, _Proceedings of the United States National
+Museum_ and _United States National Museum Bulletin_.
+
+In these series, the Museum publishes original articles and monographs
+dealing with the collections and work of its constituent museums--The
+Museum of Natural History and the Museum of History and
+Technology--setting forth newly acquired facts in the fields of
+anthropology, biology, history, geology, and technology. Copies of each
+publication are distributed to libraries, to cultural and scientific
+organizations, and to specialists and others interested in the different
+subjects.
+
+The _Proceedings_, begun in 1878, are intended for the publication, in
+separate form, of shorter papers from the Museum of Natural History.
+These are gathered in volumes, octavo in size, with the publication date
+of each paper recorded in the table of contents of the volume.
+
+In the _Bulletin_ series, the first of which was issued in 1875, appear
+longer, separate publications consisting of monographs (occasionally in
+several parts) and volumes in which are collected works on related
+subjects. _Bulletins_ are either octavo or quarto in size, depending on
+the needs of the presentation. Since 1902 papers relating to the
+botanical collections of the Museum of Natural History have been
+published in the _Bulletin_ series under the heading _Contributions from
+the United States National Herbarium_ and, since 1959, in _Bulletins_
+titled "Contributions from the Museum of History and Technology," have
+been gathered shorter papers relating to the collections and research of
+that Museum.
+
+This work forms volume 254 of the _Bulletin_ series.
+
+  Frank A. Taylor
+  _Director, United States National Museum_
+
+  For sale by Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office
+  Washington, D.C. 20402--Price $2.75
+
+
+
+
+_Contents_
+
+
+   Preface                                                   vii
+
+   Acknowledgments                                          viii
+
+1. Early Efforts                                               1
+
+2. Elements of a Successful Machine                           17
+
+3. The "Sewing-Machine Combination"                           39
+
+4. Less Expensive Machines                                    43
+
+   Appendixes                                                 55
+
+     I. Notes on the Development and Commercial
+        Use of the Sewing Machine                             57
+
+    II. American Sewing-Machine Companies of the
+        19th Century                                          65
+
+   III. Chronological List of U.S. Sewing-Machine
+        Patent Models in the Smithsonian Collections         125
+
+    IV. 19th-Century Sewing Machine Leaflets in the
+        Smithsonian Collections                              134
+
+     V. A Brief History of Cotton Thread                     135
+
+    VI. Biographical Sketches                                137
+
+   Bibliography                                              144
+
+   Indexes                                                   147
+
+     Geographical Index to Companies Listed in Appendix II   149
+
+     Alphabetical Index to Patentees Listed in Appendix III  151
+
+     General Index to Chapters 1-4                           155
+
+
+
+
+_Preface_
+
+
+It had no instrument panel with push-button controls. It was not
+operated electronically or jet-propelled. But to many 19th-century
+people the sewing machine was probably as awe-inspiring as a space
+capsule is to their 20th-century descendants. It was expensive, but,
+considering the work it could do and the time it could save, the cost
+was more than justified. The sewing machine became the first widely
+advertised consumer appliance, pioneered installment buying and patent
+pooling, and revolutionized the ready-made clothing industry. It also
+weathered the protests of those who feared the new machine was a threat
+to their livelihood.
+
+The practical sewing machine is not the result of one man's genius, but
+rather the culmination of a century of thought, work, trials, failures,
+and partial successes of a long list of inventors. History is too quick
+to credit one or two men for an important invention and to forget the
+work that preceded and prodded each man to contribute his share. It is
+no discredit to Howe to state that he _did not invent the sewing
+machine_. Howe's work with the sewing machine was important, and he did
+patent certain improvements, but his work was one step along the way. It
+is for the reader to decide whether it was the turning point.
+
+Since the sewing machine has been considered by some as one of the most
+important inventions of 19th-century America, of equal importance to
+this story of the invention is the history of the sewing machine's
+development into a practical, popular commodity. Since many new
+companies blossomed overnight to manufacture this very salable item, a
+catalog list of more than one hundred and fifty of these 19th-century
+companies is included in this study. Still, the list is probably
+incomplete. Many of the companies remained in business a very short time
+or kept their activities a secret to avoid payment of royalties to
+patent holders. Evidence of these companies is difficult to find. It is
+hoped that additional information will come to light as a result of
+this initial attempt to list and date known companies. The dating of
+individual machines based on their serial numbers is also a difficult
+task. Individual company records of this type have not survived;
+however, using the commercial machines in the patent collection, for
+which we know one limiting date--the date the machine was deposited at
+the patent office--and using the records that have survived, an
+estimated date based on the serial number can be established for many of
+the better known machines.
+
+
+     _Acknowledgments_
+
+     I am greatly indebted to the late Dr. Frederick Lewton, whose
+     interest in the history of the sewing machine initiated the
+     collecting of information about it for the Smithsonian
+     Institution's Division of Textiles archives and whose out-of-print
+     booklet "A Servant in the House" prompted the writing of this work.
+     I would also like to thank Mr. Bogart Thompson of the Singer
+     Manufacturing Company for his cooperation in arranging for the gift
+     of an excellent collection of 19th-century sewing machines to the
+     Smithsonian and for allowing me to use the Singer historical files.
+     Acknowledgment is also made of the cooperation extended by The
+     Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village for permitting me to study
+     their collection of old sewing machines.
+
+     _Grace Rogers Cooper_
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter One_
+
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1.--AFTER ALMOST A CENTURY OF ATTEMPTS TO INVENT A
+MACHINE THAT WOULD SEW, the practical sewing machine evolved in the
+mid-19th century. This elegant, carpeted salesroom of the 1870s, with
+fashionable ladies and gentlemen scanning the latest model sewing
+machines, reflects the pinnacle reached by the new industry in just a
+few decades. This example, one of many of its type, is the Wheeler and
+Wilson sewing-machine offices and salesroom, No. 44 Fourteenth Street,
+Union Square, New York City. From _The Daily Graphic_, New York City,
+December 29, 1874. (Smithsonian photo 48091-A.)]
+
+
+Early Efforts
+
+To 1800
+
+For thousands of years, the only means of stitching two pieces of fabric
+together had been with a common needle and a length of thread. The
+thread might be of silk, flax, wool, sinew, or other fibrous material.
+The needle, whether of bone, silver, bronze, steel, or some other metal,
+was always the same in design--a thin shaft with a point at one end and
+a hole or eye for receiving the thread at the other end. Simple as it
+was, the common needle (fig. 2) with its thread-carrying eye had been an
+ingenious improvement over the sharp bone, stick, or other object used
+to pierce a hole through which a lacing then had to be passed.[1] In
+addition to utilitarian stitching for such things as the making of
+garments and household furnishings, the needle was also used for
+decorative stitching, commonly called embroidery. And it was for this
+purpose that the needle, the seemingly perfect tool that defied
+improvement, was first altered for ease of stitching and to increase
+production.
+
+One of the forms that the needle took in the process of adaptation was
+that of the fine steel hook. Called an _aguja_ in Spain, the hook was
+used in making a type of lace known as _punto de aguja_. During the 17th
+century after the introduction of chainstitch embroideries from India,
+this hook was used to produce chainstitch designs on a net ground.[2]
+The stitch and the fine hook to make it were especially adaptable to
+this work. By the 18th century the hook had been reduced to needle size
+and inserted into a handle, and was used to chainstitch-embroider woven
+fabrics.[3] In France the hook was called a crochet and was sharpened to
+a point for easy entry into the fabric (fig. 3). For stitching, the
+fabric was held taut on a drum-shaped frame. The hooked needle pierced
+the fabric, caught the thread from below the surface and pulled a loop
+to the top. The needle reentered the fabric a stitch-length from the
+first entry and caught the thread again, pulling a second loop through
+the first to which it became enchained. This method of embroidery
+permitted for the first time the use of a continuous length of thread.
+At this time the chainstitch was used exclusively for decorative
+embroidery, and from the French name for drum--the shape of the frame
+that held the fabric--the worked fabric came to be called tambour
+embroidery. The crochet[4] or small hooked needle soon became known as
+a tambour needle.
+
+In 1755 a new type of needle was invented for producing embroidery
+stitches. This needle had to pass completely through the fabric two
+times (a through-and-through motion) for every stitch. The inventor was
+Charles F. Weisenthal, a German mechanic living in London who was
+granted British patent 701 for a two-pointed needle (fig. 4). The
+invention was described in the patent as follows:
+
+     The muslin, being put into a frame, is to be worked with a needle
+     that has two points, one at the head, and the other point as a
+     common needle, which is to be worked by holding it with the fingers
+     in the middle, so as not to require turning.
+
+It might be argued that Weisenthal had invented the eye-pointed needle,
+since he was the first inventor to put a point at the end of the needle
+having the eye. But, since his specifically stated use required the
+needle to have two points and to be passed completely through the
+fabric, Weisenthal had no intention of utilizing the very important
+advantage that the eye-pointed needle provided, that of _not_ requiring
+the passage of the needle through the fabric as in hand sewing.
+
+While no records can be found to establish that Weisenthal's patent was
+put to any commercial use during the inventor's lifetime, the
+two-pointed needle with eye at midpoint appeared in several 19th-century
+sewing-machine inventions.
+
+The earliest of the known mechanical sewing devices produced a chain or
+tambour stitch, but by an entirely different principle than that used
+with either needle just described. Although the idea was incorporated
+into a patent, the machine was entirely overlooked for almost a century
+as the patent itself was classed under wearing apparel. It was entitled
+"An Entire New Method of Making and Completing Shoes, Boots,
+Splatterdashes, Clogs, and Other Articles, by Means of Tools and
+Machines also Invented by Me for that Purpose, and of Certain
+Compositions of the Nature of Japan or Varnish, which will be very
+advantageous in many useful Applications." This portentously titled
+British patent 1,764 was issued to an English cabinetmaker, Thomas
+Saint, on July 17, 1790. Along with accounts of several processes for
+making various varnish compositions, the patent contains descriptions of
+three separate machines; the second of these was for "stitching,
+quilting, or sewing." Though far from practical, the machine
+incorporated several features common to a modern sewing machine. It had
+a horizontal cloth plate or table, an overhanging arm carrying a
+straight needle, and a continuous supply of thread from a spool. The
+motion was derived from the rotation of a hand crank on a shaft, which
+activated cams that produced all the actions of the machine.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2.--PRIMITIVE NEEDLE. Bronze. Egyptian (Roman
+period, 30 B.C.-A.D. 642). (Smithsonian photo 1379-A.)]
+
+One cam operated the forked needle (fig. 5) that pushed the thread
+through a hole made by a preceding thrust of the awl. The thread was
+caught by a looper and detained so that it then became enchained in the
+next loop of thread. The patent described thread tighteners above and
+below the work and an adjustment to vary the stitches for different
+kinds of material. Other than the British patent records, no
+contemporary reference to Saint's machine has ever been found. The
+stitching-machine contents of this patent was happened on by accident in
+1873.[5] Using the patent description, a Newton Wilson of London
+attempted to build a model of Saint's machine in 1874.[6] Wilson found,
+however, that it was necessary to modify the construction before the
+machine would stitch at all.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3.--TAMBOUR NEEDLE AND FRAME, showing the method
+of forming the chainstitch, from the Diderot Encyclopedia of 1763, vol.
+II, _Plates Brodeur_, plate II. (Smithsonian photo 43995-C.)]
+
+This raised the question whether Saint had built even one machine.
+Nevertheless, the germ of an idea was there, and had the inventor
+followed through the sewing machine might have been classed an
+18th-century rather than a 19th-century contribution.
+
+
+1800-1820
+
+There is no doubt that the successful late-18th-century improvements in
+spinning and weaving methods, resulting in increased production of
+fabrics, had a great effect in spurring inventors to ideas of stitching
+by machinery. Several efforts were made during the first two decades of
+the 19th century to produce such machines.
+
+On February 14, 1804, a French patent was issued to Thomas Stone and
+James Henderson for a "new mechanical principle designed to replace
+handwork in joining the edges of all kinds of flexible material, and
+particularly applicable to the manufacture of clothing."[7] The machine
+used a common needle and made an overcast stitch in the same manner as
+hand sewing. A pair of jaws or pincers, imitating the action of the
+fingers, alternately seized and released the needle on each side of the
+fabric. The pincers were attached to a pair of arms arranged to be moved
+backward and forward by "any suitable mechanism."[8] This machine was
+capable of making curved or angular as well as straight seams, but it
+was limited to carrying a short length of thread, necessitating frequent
+rethreading. The machine may have had some limited use, but it was not
+commercially successful.
+
+On May 30 of the same year John Duncan, a Glasgow manufacturer, was
+granted British patent 2,769 for "a new and improved method of
+tambouring, or raising flowers, figures or other ornaments upon muslins,
+lawns and other cottons, cloths, or stuffs." This machine made the
+chainstitch, using not one but many hooked needles that operated
+simultaneously. The needles, attached to a bar or carrier, were pushed
+through the vertically held fabric from the upper right side, which in
+this case was also the outer side. After passing through it, they were
+supplied with thread from spools by means of peculiarly formed hooks or
+thread carriers. The thread was twisted around the needle above the
+hook, so as to be caught by it, and drawn through to the outer surface.
+The shaft of the needle was grooved on the hook side and fitted with a
+slider. This slider closed upon the retraction of the needle from the
+fabric, holding the thread in place and preventing the hook from
+catching. The fabric was stretched between two rollers set in an upright
+frame capable of sliding vertically in a second frame arranged to have
+longitudinal motion. The combination of these two motions was sufficient
+to produce any required design. The principle developed by Duncan was
+used on embroidery machines, in a modified form, for many years. Of
+several early attempts, his was the first to realize any form of
+success.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4.--WEISENTHAL'S two-pointed needle, 1755.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5.--SAINT'S SEWING MACHINE, 1790. (Smithsonian
+photo 42490-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6.--CHAPMAN'S SEWING MACHINE, first eye-pointed
+needle, 1807. (Smithsonian photo 33299-K.)]
+
+A type of rope-stitching machine, which might be considered unimportant
+to this study, must be included because of its use of the eye-pointed
+needle, the needle that was to play a most important part in the later
+development of a practical sewing machine. The earliest reference to the
+use of a needle with an eye not being required to be passed completely
+through the fabric it was stitching is found in a machine invented by
+Edward Walter Chapman, for which he and William Chapman were granted
+British patent 3,078 on October 30, 1807. The machine (fig. 6) was
+designed to construct belting or flat banding by stitching together
+several strands of rope that had been laid side by side. Two needles
+were required and used alternately. One needle was threaded and then
+forced through the ropes. On the opposite side the thread was removed
+from the eye of the first needle before it was withdrawn. The second
+needle was threaded and the operation repeated. The needles could also
+be used to draw the thread, rather than push it, through the ropes with
+the same result. While being stitched, the ropes were held fast and the
+sewing frame and supporting carriage were moved manually as each stitch
+was made. Such a machine would be applicable only to the work described,
+since the necessity of rethreading at every stitch would make it
+impractical for any other type of sewing.
+
+Another early machine reported to have used the eye-pointed needle to
+form the chainstitch was invented about 1810 by Balthasar Krems,[9] a
+hosiery worker of Mayen, Germany. One knitted article produced there was
+a peaked cap, and Krems' machine was devised to stitch the turned edges
+of the cap,[10] which was suspended from wire pins on a moving wheel.
+The needle of the machine was attached to a horizontal shaft and carried
+the thread through the fabric. The loop of thread was retained by a
+hook-shaped pin to become enchained with the next loop at the reentry of
+the needle. Local history reports that this device may have been used as
+early as 1800, but the inventor did not patent his machine and
+apparently made no attempt to commercialize it. No contemporary
+references to the machine could be found, and use of the machine may
+have died with the inventor in 1813.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7.--MADERSPERGER'S 1814 SEWING MACHINE.
+Illustration from a pamphlet by the inventor entitled _Beschreibung
+einer Nähmaschine_, Vienna, ca. 1816. (Smithsonian photo 49373.)]
+
+About the same time, Josef Madersperger, a tailor in Vienna, Austria,
+invented a sewing machine, which was illustrated (fig. 7) and described
+in a 15-page pamphlet published about 1816.[11] On May 12, 1817, a
+Vienna newspaper wrote of the Madersperger machine: "The approbation
+which his machine received everywhere has induced his Royal Imperial
+Majesty, in the year 1814, to give to the inventor an exclusive
+privilege [patent] which has already been mentioned before in these
+papers."[12] Madersperger's 1814 machine stitched straight or curving
+lines. His second machine stitched small semicircles, as shown in the
+illustration, and also small circles, egg-shaped figures, and angles of
+various degrees. The machine, acclaimed by the art experts, must
+therefore have been intended for embroidery stitching. From the
+contemporary descriptions and the illustration, the machine is judged to
+have made a couched stitch--one thread was laid on the surface of the
+fabric and stitched in place with a short thread carried by a
+two-pointed needle of the type invented by Weisenthal. Two fabrics could
+have been stitched together, but not in the manner required for
+tailoring. The machine must have had many deficiencies in the tension
+adjustment, feed, and related mechanical operations, for despite the
+published wishes for success the inventor did not put the machine into
+practical operation.[13] Years later Madersperger again attempted to
+invent a sewing machine using a different stitch (see p. 13).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 8.--AN ENGRAVING OF THIMONNIER and his sewing
+machine of 1830, from _Sewing Machine News_, 1880. (Smithsonian photo
+10569-C.)]
+
+A story persists that about 1818-1819 a machine that formed a
+backstitch, identical to the one used in hand sewing, was invented in
+Monkton, Vermont. The earliest record of this machine that this author
+has found was in the second or 1867 edition of _Eighty Years of Progress
+of the United States_; the machine is not mentioned in the earlier
+edition. The writer of the article on sewing machines states that John
+Knowles invented and constructed a sewing machine, which used a single
+thread and a two-pointed needle with the eye in the middle to form the
+backstitch. This information must have come to light after the first
+edition was published, but from where and by whom is not known. Other
+sources state that two men, Adams and Dodge, produced this machine in
+Monkton.[14] While still others credit the Reverend John Adam Dodge,
+assisted by a mechanic by the name of John Knowles, with the same
+invention in the same location.[15] Vermont historical societies have
+been unable to identify the men named or to verify the story of the
+invention.[16] The importance of the credibility of this story, if
+proved, rests in the fact that it represents the first effort in the
+United States to produce a mechanical stitching device.
+
+
+1820-1845
+
+American records of this period are incomplete as a result of the Patent
+Office fire of 1836, in which most of the specific descriptions of
+patents issued to that date were destroyed. Patentees were asked to
+provide another description of their patents so that these might be
+copied, but comparatively few responded and only a small percentage was
+restored. Thus, although the printed index of patents[17] lists Henry
+Lye as patenting a machine for "sewing leather, and so forth" on March
+10, 1826, no description of the machine has ever been located. Many
+patents whose original claim was for only a mechanical awl to pierce
+holes in leather or a clamp to hold leather for hand stitching were
+claimed as sewing devices once a practical machine had evolved. But no
+evidence has ever been found that any of these machines performed the
+actual stitching operation.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 9.--AN ADAPTED DRAWING of Hunt's sewing machine
+published by the _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 2, no. 8, 1881, to give
+some idea of its construction and operation. "The frame of the machine
+(A) rested on a base (B) that was supported by a table. The wheel (C)
+worked on a central shaft (E) and was set in motion by hand or foot
+power. On the front of the wheel (C) was a raised cam (D) into which the
+connecting rod (F) engaged to communicate motion to the vibrating arm
+(G) pivoted to the frame at (H) and carrying at the end (g) the curved
+needle (I). The take-up (J) served to tighten the thread after each
+stitch; it was connected to the vibrating arm by a rod (K). The cloth
+(L) was held in a vertical position between the fingers or nippers (M),
+which were attached to the frame. The bar (N) was toothed on one side
+(n) to mesh with the geared wheel (o). The lever (P) was operated by a
+cam (m) upon the periphery of the wheel (C), and carried the vertical
+pawl (S) which meshed with the ratchet (T) and moved the cloth as each
+stitch was made. The shuttle (U) worked in its race (V); it was operated
+by the vibrating lever (W), the upper end of which engaged into a groove
+on the face of the wheel (C)." (Smithsonian photo 42554.)]
+
+The first man known to have put a mechanical sewing device into
+commercial operation was Barthelemy Thimonnier,[18] a French tailor.
+After several years of fruitless effort he invented a machine for which
+he received a French patent in 1830.[19] The machine (fig. 8) made a
+chainstitch by means of a barbed or hooked needle. The vertically held
+needle worked from an overhanging arm. The needle thrust through the
+fabric laid on the horizontal table, caught a thread from the thread
+carrier and looper beneath the table, and brought a loop to the surface
+of the fabric. When the process was repeated the second loop became
+enchained in the first. The needle was moved downward by the depression
+of a cord-connected foot treadle and was raised by the action of a
+spring. The fabric was fed through the stitching mechanism manually, and
+a regular rate of speed had to be maintained by the operator in order to
+produce stitches of equal length. A type of retractable thimble or
+presser foot was used to hold the fabric down as required.
+
+The needle, and the entire machine, was basically an attempt to
+mechanize tambour embroidery, with which the inventor was quite
+familiar. Although this work, which served as the machine's inspiration,
+was always used for decorative embroidery, Thimonnier saw the
+possibilities of using the stitch for utilitarian purposes. By 1841 he
+had 80 machines stitching army clothing in a Paris shop. But a mob of
+tailors, fearing that the invention would rob them of a livelihood,
+broke into the shop and destroyed the machines. Thimonnier fled Paris,
+penniless. Four years later he had obtained new financial help, improved
+his machine to produce 200 stitches a minute, and organized the first
+French sewing-machine company.[20] The Revolution of 1848, however,
+brought this enterprise to an early end. Before new support could be
+found other inventors had appeared with better machines, and
+Thimonnier's was passed by. In addition to the two French patents
+Thimonnier also received a British patent with his associate Jean Marie
+Magnin in 1848 and one in the United States in 1850. He achieved no
+financial gain from either of these and died a poor man.
+
+While Thimonnier was developing his chainstitch machine in France,
+Walter Hunt,[21] perhaps best described as a Yankee mechanical genius,
+was working on a different kind of sewing machine in the United States.
+Sometime between 1832 and 1834 he produced at his shop in New York a
+machine that made a lockstitch.[22] This stitch was the direct result of
+the mechanical method devised to produce the stitching and represented
+the first occasion an inventor had not attempted to reproduce a hand
+stitch. The lockstitch required two threads, one passing through a loop
+in the other and both interlocking in the heart of the seam. At the time
+Hunt did not consider the sewing machine any more promising than several
+other inventions that he had in mind, and, after demonstrating that the
+machine would sew, he sold his interest in it for a small sum and did
+not bother to patent it.
+
+A description--one of few ever published--and sketch of a rebuilt Hunt
+machine (fig. 9) appeared in an article in the _Sewing Machine News_ in
+1881.[23] The important element in the Hunt invention was an eye-pointed
+needle working in combination with a shuttle carrying a second thread.
+Future inventors were thus no longer hampered by the erroneous idea that
+the sewing machine must imitate the human hands and fingers. Though
+Hunt's machine stitched short, straight seams with speed and accuracy,
+it could not sew curved or angular work. Its stitching was not
+continuous, but had to be reset at the end of a short run. The validity
+of Hunt's claim as the inventor of the lockstitch and the prescribed
+method of making it was argued many times, especially during the Elias
+Howe patent suits of the 1850s. The decision against Hunt was not a
+question of invention,[24] but one of right to ownership or control.
+Hunt did little to promote his sewing machine and sold it together with
+the right to patent to George A. Arrowsmith.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 10.--MADERSPERGER'S 1839 sewing machine.
+Madersperger's machine consisted of two major parts: the frame, which
+held the material, and the stitching mechanism, called the hand. The
+hand shown here is an original model. (_Photo courtesy of Technisches
+Museum für Industrie und Gewerbe, Vienna._)]
+
+For over fifteen years, from the mid-1830s to the early 1850s, the
+machine dropped out of sight. When the sewing-machine litigation
+developed in the 1850s, the I. M. Singer company searched out the Hunt
+machine, had the inventor rebuild one,[25] and attempted to use this to
+break the Howe patent. The plan did not work. The Honorable Charles
+Mason, Patent Commissioner, reported:
+
+     When the first inventor allows his discovery to slumber for
+     eighteen years, with no probability of its ever being brought into
+     useful activity, and when it is only resurrected to supplant and
+     strangle an invention which has been given to the public, and which
+     has been made practically useful, all reasonable presumption should
+     be in favor of the inventor who has been the means of conferring
+     the real benefit upon the world.[26]
+
+Hunt's machine was an invention of the 1830s, but only because of the
+patent litigation was it ever heard of again.
+
+During the time that a potentially successful sewing machine was being
+invented and forgotten in America, Josef Madersperger of Austria made a
+second attempt to solve the mechanical stitching problem. In 1839 he
+received a second patent on a machine entirely different from his 1814
+effort. It was similar to Hunt's in that it used an eye-pointed needle
+and passed a thread through the loop of the needle-thread--the thread
+carried by the needle--to lock the stitch. Madersperger's machine was a
+multiple-needle quilting machine. The threaded needles penetrated the
+fabric from below and were retracted, leaving the loops on the surface.
+A thread was drawn through the loops to produce what the inventor termed
+a chain. The first two stitches were twisted before insertion into the
+next two, producing a type of twisted lockstitch. The mechanism for
+feeding the cloth was faulty, however, and the inventor himself stated
+in the specifications that much remained to perfect and simplify it
+before its general application. (This machine was illustrated [fig. 10]
+in the _Sewing Machine Times_, October 25, 1907, and mistakenly referred
+to as the 1814 model.) Madersperger realized no financial gain from
+either venture and died in a poorhouse in 1850.
+
+The first efforts of the 1840s reflected the work of the earlier years.
+In England, Edward Newton and Thomas Archbold invented and patented a
+machine on May 4, 1841, for tambouring or ornamenting the backs of
+gloves. Their machine used a hook on the upper surface to catch the loop
+of thread, but an eye-pointed needle from underneath was used to carry
+the thread up through the fabric. The machine was designed to use three
+needles for three rows of chainstitching, if required. Although the
+machine was capable of stitching two fabrics together, it was never
+contemplated as a sewing machine in the present use of the term. Their
+British patent 8,948 stated it was for "improvements in producing
+ornamental or tambour work in the manufacture of gloves."
+
+The earliest American patent specifically recorded as a sewing machine
+was U.S. patent 2,466, issued to John J. Greenough on February 21, 1842.
+His machine was a short-thread model that made both the running stitch
+and the backstitch. It used the two-pointed needle, with eye at
+mid-length, which was passed back and forth through the material by
+means of a pair of pincers on each side of the seam. The pincers opened
+and closed automatically. The material to be sewn was held in clamps
+which moved it forward between the pincers to form a running stitch or
+moved it alternately backward and forward to produce a backstitch. The
+clamps were attached to a rack that automatically fed the material at a
+predetermined rate according to the length of stitch required. Since the
+machine was designed for leather or other hard material, the needle was
+preceded by an awl, which pierced a hole. The machine had a weight to
+draw out the thread and a stop-motion to stop the machinery when a
+thread broke or became too short. The needle was threaded with a short
+length of thread and required frequent refilling. Only straight seams
+could be stitched. The feed was continuous to the length of the rack
+bar; then it had to be reset. The motions were all obtained from the
+revolution of a crank. It is not believed that any machines, other than
+the patent model (fig. 11), were ever made. Little is known of Greenough
+other than his name.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 11.--GREENOUGH'S PATENT MODEL, 1842. (Smithsonian
+photo 45525-G.)]
+
+In the succeeding year, on March 4, 1843, Benjamin W. Bean received the
+second American sewing-machine patent, U.S. patent 2,982. Like
+Greenough's, this machine made a running stitch, but by a different
+method. In Bean's machine the fabric was fed between the teeth of a
+series of gears. Held in a groove in the gears was a peculiarly shaped
+needle bent in two places to permit it to be held in place by the gears
+and with a point at one end and the eye at the opposite end, as in a
+common hand needle. The action of the gears caused the fabric to be
+forced onto and through the threaded needle. Indefinite straight seams
+could be stitched as the fabric was continuously forced off the needle
+by the turning gears (fig. 12). A screw clamp held the machine to a
+table or other work surface. Machines of this and similar types
+reportedly had some limited usage in the dyeing and bleaching mills,[27]
+where lengths of fabric were stitched together before processing.
+Improved versions of Bean's machine were to be patented in subsequent
+years in England and America. The same principle was also used in home
+machines two decades later.
+
+The third sewing-machine patent on record in the United States Patent
+Office is patent 3,389 issued on December 27, 1843, to George H.
+Corliss, better remembered as the inventor and manufacturer of the
+Corliss steam engine. It was his interest in the sewing machine,
+however, that eventually directed his attention to the steam engine.
+
+Corliss had a general store at Greenwich, New York. A customer's
+complaint that the boots he had purchased split at the seams made
+Corliss wonder why someone had not invented a machine to sew stronger
+seams than hand-sewn ones. He considered the problem of sewing leather,
+analyzing the steps required to make the saddler's stitch, one popularly
+used in boots and shoes. He concluded that a sewing machine to do this
+type of work must first perforate the leather, then draw the threads
+through the holes, and finally secure the stitches by pulling the
+threads tight. The machine Corliss invented (fig. 13) was of the same
+general type as Greenough's, except that two two-pointed needles were
+required to make the saddler's stitch. This stitch was composed of two
+running stitches made simultaneously, one from each side.[28] The
+machine used two awls to pierce the holes through which the needles
+passed; finger levers approached from opposite sides, seized the
+needles, pulled the threads firmly, and passed the needles through to
+repeat the operation. The working model that Corliss completed could
+unite two pieces of heavy leather at the rate of 20 stitches per minute.
+
+Corliss, lacking capital, went to Providence, Rhode Island, in 1844 to
+secure backers. After months without success, he was forced to abandon
+the sewing machine and accept employment as a draftsman and designer.
+Though he considered himself a failure, this change of employment placed
+him on the threshold of his more rewarding life work, improvement of the
+steam engine.[29]
+
+On July 22, 1844, James Rodgers was granted U.S. patent 3,672, the
+fourth American sewing-machine patent. The patent model is not known to
+be in existence, but this machine was of minor importance for it offered
+only a negligible change in the Bean running-stitch machine. The same
+corrugated gears were used but were placed in different positions so
+that one bend in the needle was eliminated. When Bean secured a reissue
+of his patent in 1849, he had adapted it to use a straight needle.
+Rodgers' machine is not known to have had any commercial success,
+although this type of machine experienced a brief period of popularity.
+By the early 1900s, however, the running-stitch machine was so little
+known that when one was illustrated in the _Sewing Machine Times_ in
+1907[30] it excited more curiosity than any of the other early types.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 12.--BEAN'S PATENT MODEL, 1843. (Smithsonian photo
+42490-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 13.--CORLISS' PATENT MODEL, 1843. The piece of
+wood in the foreground is an enlarged model of the needle. (Smithsonian
+photo 42490.)]
+
+On December 7, 1844, the same year that Rodgers secured his American
+patent, John Fisher and James Gibbons were granted British patent 10,424
+for "certain improvements in the manufacture of figured or ornamental
+lace, or net, or other fabrics." From this superficial description of
+its work, the device might seem to be just another tambouring machine.
+It was not. Designed specifically for ornamental stitching, the machine
+made a two-thread stitch using an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle.[31]
+Several sets of needles and shuttles worked simultaneously. The needles
+were secured to a needlebar placed beneath the fabric. The shuttles were
+pointed at both ends to pass through each succeeding new loop formed by
+the needles. Each shuttle was activated by two vibrating arms worked by
+cams. Each needle was curved in the form of a bow, and in addition to
+the eye at the point each also had a second eye at the bottom of the
+curve. The shape of the needle together with the position of the eyes
+permitted the pointed shuttle, carrying the second thread, to pass
+freely through the loop in the ascending needle thread. The fabric was
+carried by a pair of cloth rollers, capable of sliding in a horizontal
+plane in both a lateral and a lengthwise direction. These combined
+movements were sufficient to enable the operator to produce almost every
+embroidered design. The ornamenting, which might be a yarn, cord, or
+gimp, was carried by the shuttle thread. There was no tension on the
+shuttle thread, which was held in place by the thread from the needle.
+The stitch produced was a form of couching.[32] It was in no sense a
+lockstitch. Fisher, who was the inventor, readily admitted at a later
+date that he had not had the slightest idea of producing a sewing
+machine, in the utilitarian meaning of the term. Although it has not
+been established that this machine was ever put into practical
+operation, Fisher's invention was to have a far-reaching effect on the
+development of the sewing machine in England.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] CHARLES M. KARCH, _Needles: Historical and Descriptive_ (12 Census
+U.S., vol. X, 1902), pp. 429-432.
+
+[2] FLORENCE LEWIS MAY, _Hispanic Lace and Lace Making_ (New York,
+1939), pp. 267-271.
+
+[3] Diderot's _L'Encyclopédie, ou dictionnaire raisonné des sciences,
+des arts et des métiers ..._, vol. II (1763), Plates Brodeur, plate II.
+
+[4] The term "crochet," as used today, became the modern counterpart of
+the Spanish _punto de aguja_ about the second quarter of the 19th
+century.
+
+[5] _Sewing Machine News_ (1880), vol. 1, no. 7, p. 2.
+
+[6] This model of Saint's machine was bequeathed by Mr. Wilson to the
+South Kensington Museum, London, England.
+
+[7] _Sewing Machine News_ (1880), vol. 1, no. 8, p. 2.
+
+[8] Ibid.
+
+[9] ERICH LUTH, _Ein Mayener Strumpfwirker, Balthasar Krems, 1760-1813,
+Erfinder der Nähmaschine_, p. 10, states that the machine used an
+eye-pointed needle. WILHELM RENTERS, _Praktisches Wissen von der
+Nähmaschine_, p. 4, states that Krems used a hooked needle. Renters
+probably mistook the hooked retaining pin for the needle.
+
+[10] Dr. Dahmen, Burgermeister of Mayen, stated in a letter of October
+8, 1963, that the original Krems machine was turned over to the
+officials of Mayen by Krems' descendants about the turn of the century.
+He verified that the machine used an eye-pointed needle. About 1920 the
+machine was placed in the Eifelmuseum in Genovevaburg; some of the
+unessential parts were restored. The machine now at this museum is the
+one pictured in Luth's book. A replica of the machine is in the
+Deutsches Museum, Munich, Germany.
+
+[11] JOSEF MADERSPERGER, _Beschreibung einer Nähmaschine_ (Vienna, ca.
+1816). The exact date of this small booklet is not known. In the booklet
+Madersperger reports that he had received a patent in 1814 for his
+_first_ machine adapted to straight sewing. However, the machine
+described and illustrated in this booklet was one that could stitch
+semicircles and small figures. In _Kunst und Gewerbeblatt_, a periodical
+(Munich, Germany, 1817, pp. 336-338), reference is made to the
+Madersperger machine and a statement to the effect that the inventor had
+published a leaflet describing his machine. The leaflet referred to is
+believed to be the one under discussion. For this reason it must have
+been published between 1814 and 1817, therefore ca. 1816. The only copy
+of this booklet known to this author is in the New York Public Library.
+It was probably not known to authors Luth and Renters. The author wishes
+to thank Miss Rita J. Adrosko of her staff for her important help in
+translating these German publications.
+
+[12] _Sewing Machine Times_ (1907), vol. 26, no. 865, p. 1.
+
+[13] There are no known models of these early Madersperger machines in
+existence. Although the _Sewing Machine Times_ reported in the 1907
+issue that the 1814 sewing machine was then on exhibition in the Museum
+of the Vienna Polytechnic, the illustration shown was of Madersperger's
+1839 machine. In a letter from the director of the Technisches Museum
+für Industrie und Gewerbe in Vienna, received in 1962, it was stated
+that the original 1814 Madersperger machine was in their museum. The
+photographs that were sent, however, were of the 1839 machine. This
+machine is entirely different from the 1814-1817 machine, as can readily
+be seen by the reader (figs. 7 and 10).
+
+[14] JOHN P. STAMBAUGH, _A History of the Sewing Machine_ (Hartford,
+Conn., 1872), p. 13; _Sewing Machine News_ (July 1880), vol. 1, no. 12,
+p. 4.
+
+[15] "Sewing Machines," _Johnson's Universal Cyclopaedia_ (New York,
+1878), vol. 4, p. 205. The 1874 edition does not include this reference
+to Rev. John Adam Dodge.
+
+[16] Letters to the author from the Vermont Historical Society (Nov. 13,
+1953) and the Bennington Historical Museum and Art Gallery (May 2,
+1953).
+
+[17] EDMUND BURKE. Commissioner of Patents, _List of Patents for
+Inventions and Designs Issued by the United States from 1790 to 1847_
+(Washington, 1847).
+
+[18] See Barthelemy Thimonnier's biographical sketch, p. 137.
+
+[19] French patent issued to Barthelemy Thimonnier and M. Ferrand (who
+was a tutor at l'Ecole des Mines, Saint-Etienne, and helped finance the
+patent), July 17, 1830.
+
+[20] The company was located at Villefranche-sur-Saône, but no name is
+recorded. See J. Granger, _Thimonnier et la machine à coudre_ (1943), p.
+16.
+
+[21] See Walter Hunt's biographical sketch, p. 138.
+
+[22] The earliest known reference in print to Walter Hunt's sewing
+machine is in _Sewing by Machinery: An Exposition of the History of
+Patentees of Various Sewing Machines and of the Rights of the Public_
+(I. M. Singer & Co., 1853). A more detailed story of Hunt's invention is
+in _Sewing Machine News_ (1880-81), vol. 2, no. 2, p. 4; no. 4, p. 5;
+and no. 8, pp. 3 and 8.
+
+[23] Vol. 2, no. 8, p. 3.
+
+[24] In the opinion and decision of C. Mason, Commissioner of the Patent
+Office, offered on May 24, 1854, for the Hunt vs. Howe interference
+suit, Mason stated: "He [Hunt] proves that in 1834 or 1835 he contrived
+a machine by which he actually effected his purpose of sewing cloth with
+considerable success."
+
+[25] The rebuilt machine, according to a letter to the author from B. F.
+Thompson of the Singer company, is believed to have been one of the
+machines lost in a Singer factory fire at Elizabethport, N.J., in 1890.
+
+[26] Op. cit. (footnote 24).
+
+[27] EDWARD H. KNIGHT, _Sewing Machines_, vol. 3 of _Knight's American
+Mechanical Dictionary_.
+
+[28] A seam using the saddler's stitch appears as a neat line of
+touching stitches on both sides. Even when made by hand, it is sometimes
+misidentified by the casual observer as the lockstitch because of the
+uniformity of both sides. If the saddler's stitch was formed of threads
+of two different colors, the even stitches on one side of the seam and
+the odd stitches on the reverse side would be of one color, and vice
+versa.
+
+[29] _The Life and Works of George H. Corliss_, privately printed for
+Mary Corliss by the American Historical Society, 1930. The Corliss
+family records were turned over to the Baker Library, Harvard
+University. In a letter addressed to this author by Robert W. Lovett of
+the Manuscripts Division on August 2, 1954, it was reported that there
+was a record on their Corliss card to the effect that a model of his
+sewing machine, received with the collection, was turned over to the
+Massachusetts Institute of Technology; however, Mr. Lovett also stated
+that from a manuscript memoir of Mr. Corliss that it would seem that he
+developed only the one machine--the patent model. In a letter dated
+November 15, 1954, Stanley Backer, assistant professor of mechanical
+engineering, stated that after extensive inquiries they were unable to
+locate the model at M.I.T. In 1964, Dr. Robert Woodbury, of M.I.T.,
+turned over to the Smithsonian Institution the official copies of the
+Corliss drawings and the specifications which had been awarded to the
+inventor by the Patent Office. It is possible that this may have been
+the material noted on the Harvard University card as having been
+transferred to M.I.T.
+
+[30] _Sewing Machine Times_ (July 10, 1907), vol. 26, no. 858, p. 1.
+
+[31] This is the earliest known patent using the combination of an
+eye-pointed needle and a shuttle to form a stitch.
+
+[32] In embroidery, couching is the technique of laying a decorative
+thread on the surface of the fabric and stitching it into place with a
+second less-conspicuous thread.
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter Two_
+
+
+[Illustration: Figure 14.--HOWE'S PREPATENT MODEL of 1845, and the box
+used by the inventor to carry the machine to England in 1847.
+(Smithsonian photo 45506-B.)]
+
+Elements of a Successful Machine
+
+The requirements for producing a successful, practical sewing machine
+were a support for the cloth, a needle to carry the thread through the
+fabric and a combining device to form the stitch, a feeding mechanism to
+permit one stitch to follow another, tension controls to provide an even
+delivery of thread, and the related mechanism to insure the precise
+performance of each operation in its proper sequence. Weisenthal had
+added a point to the eye-end of the needle, Saint supported the fabric
+by placing it in a horizontal position with a needle entering
+vertically, Duncan successfully completed a chainstitch for embroidery
+purposes, Chapman used a needle with an eye at its point and did not
+pass it completely through the fabric, Krems stitched circular caps with
+an eye-pointed needle used with a hook to form a chainstitch, Thimonnier
+used the hooked needle to form a chainstitch on a fabric laid
+horizontally, and Hunt created a new stitch that was more readily
+adapted to sewing by machine than the hand stitches had been, but,
+although each may have had the germ of an idea, a successful machine had
+not evolved. There were to be hundreds of patents issued in an attempt
+to solve these and the numerous minor problems that would ensue. But the
+problems were solved. And, in spite of its Old World inception, the
+successful sewing machine can be credited as an American invention.
+
+Although the invention of the practical sewing machine, like most
+important inventions, was a many-man project, historians generally give
+full credit to Elias Howe, Jr. Though such credit may be overly
+generous, Howe's important role in this history cannot be denied.
+
+Elias Howe, Jr., was born on a farm near Spencer, Massachusetts, but he
+left home at an early age to learn the machinist's trade.[33] After
+serving an apprenticeship in Lowell, he moved to Boston. In the late
+1830s, while employed in the instrument shop of Ari Davis, Howe is
+reported to have overheard a discussion concerning the need for a
+machine that would sew. In 1843, when illness kept him from his job for
+days at a time, he remembered the conversation and the promises of the
+rich reward that reputedly awaited the successful inventor. Determined
+to invent such a machine, he finally managed to produce sufficient
+results to interest George Fisher in buying a one-half interest in his
+proposed invention. By April 1845, Howe's machine (fig. 14) was used to
+sew all the seams of two woolen suits for men's clothing. He continued
+to demonstrate his machine but found that interest was, at best,
+indifferent.
+
+Nevertheless, Howe completed a second machine (fig. 15), which he
+submitted with his application for a patent. The fifth United States
+patent (No. 4,750) for a sewing machine was issued to him on September
+10, 1846. The machine used a grooved and curved eye-pointed needle
+carried by a vibrating arm, with the needle supplied with thread from a
+spool. Loops of thread from the needle were locked by a thread carried
+by a shuttle, which was moved through the loop by means of
+reciprocating drivers. The cloth was suspended in a vertical position,
+impaled on pins projecting from a baster plate, which moved
+intermittently under the needle by means of a toothed wheel. The length
+of each stitching operation depended upon the length of the baster
+plate, and the seams were necessarily straight. When the end of the
+baster plate reached the position of the needle, the machine was
+stopped. The cloth was removed from the baster plate, which was moved
+back to its original position. The cloth was moved forward on the pins,
+and the seam continued.
+
+In his patent specifications, Howe claimed the following:
+
+     1. The forming of the seam by carrying a thread through the cloth
+     by means of a curved needle on the end of a vibrating arm, and the
+     passing of a shuttle furnished with its bobbin, in the manner set
+     forth, between the needle and the thread which it carried, under
+     combination and arrangement of parts substantially the same with
+     that described.
+
+     2. The lifting of the thread that passes through the needle-eye by
+     means of the lifting-rod, for the purpose of forming a loop of
+     loose thread that is to be subsequently drawn in by the passage of
+     the shuttle, as herein fully described, said lifting-rod being
+     furnished with a lifting pin, and governed in its motion by the
+     guide-pieces and other devices, arranged and operating
+     substantially as described.
+
+     3. The holding of the thread that is given out by the shuttle, so
+     as to prevent its unwinding from the shuttle-bobbin after the
+     shuttle has passed through the loop, said thread being held by
+     means of the lever or slipping-piece, as herein made known, or in
+     any other manner that is substantially the same in its operation
+     and result.
+
+     4. The manner of arranging and combining the small lever with the
+     sliding box, in combination with the spring-piece, for the purpose
+     of tightening the stitch as the needle is retracted.
+
+     5. The holding of the cloth to be sewed by the use of a
+     baster-plate furnished with points for that purpose, and with holes
+     enabling it to operate as a rack in the manner set forth, thereby
+     carrying the cloth forward and dispensing altogether with the
+     necessity of basting the parts together.
+
+The five claims, which were allowed Howe in his patent, have been quoted
+to show that he did not claim the invention of the eye-pointed needle,
+for which he has so often been credited. The court judgment[34] that
+upheld Howe's claim to his patented right to control the use of the
+eye-pointed needle in combination with a shuttle to form a lockstitch
+was mistakenly interpreted by some as verifying control of the
+eye-pointed needle itself.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 15.--HOWE'S PATENT MODEL, 1846. (Smithsonian photo
+45525-B.)]
+
+After patenting his invention, Howe spent three discouraging years in
+both the United States and in England trying to interest manufacturers
+in building his sewing machine, under license. Finally, for £250
+sterling, he sold the British patent rights to William Thomas and
+further agreed to adapt the machine to Thomas' manufacture of umbrellas
+and corsets.[35] This did not prove to be a financial success for Howe
+and by 1849 he was back in the United States, once again without funds.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 16.--AN ENLARGEMENT of the stitching area.
+(Smithsonian photo 45525-B.)]
+
+On his return, Howe was surprised to find that other inventors were
+engaged in the sewing-machine problem and that sewing machines were
+being manufactured for sale. The sixth United States sewing-machine
+patent (No. 5,942) had been issued to John A. Bradshaw on November 28,
+1848, for a machine specifically stated as correcting the defects in the
+E. Howe patent. Bradshaw did not purport that his machine was a new
+invention. His specifications read:
+
+     The curved needle used in Howe's machine will not by itself form
+     the loop in the thread, which is necessary for the flying bobbin,
+     with its case, to pass through, and has, therefore, to be aided in
+     that operation by a lifting-pin, with the necessary mechanism to
+     operate it. This is a very bungling device, and is a great
+     incumbrance to the action of the machine, being an impediment in
+     the way of introducing the cloth to be sewed, difficult to keep
+     properly adjusted, and very frequently gets entangled between the
+     thread and the needle, by which the latter is frequently broken.
+     This accident happens very often, not withstanding all the
+     precaution which it is possible for the most careful operator to
+     exercise; and inasmuch as the delay occasioned thereby is very
+     considerable, and the needles costly and difficult to replace, it
+     is therefore very important that their breaking in this manner be
+     prevented, which in my machine is done in the most effectual manner
+     by dispensing with the lifting-pin altogether, the loop for the
+     flying bobbin to pass through being made with certainty and of the
+     proper form by means of my angular needle moved in a particular
+     manner just before the flying-bobbin case is thrown. The shuttle
+     and its bobbin for giving off the thread in Howe's machine are very
+     defective ... my neat and simple bobbin-case ... gives off its
+     thread with certainty and uniformity.... The baster-plate in the
+     Howe machine is very inconvenient and troublesome ... in my machine
+     ... the clamp ... is a very simple and efficient device.... The
+     Howe machine is stationary, and the baster-plate or cloth-holder
+     progressive. The Bradshaw machine is progressive and the
+     cloth-holder stationary.
+
+Bradshaw's patent accurately described some of the defects of the Howe
+machine, but other inventors were later to offer better solutions to the
+problems.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 17.--MOREY AND JOHNSON sewing machine, 1849.
+Below: The machine is marked with the name of its maker, Safford &
+Williams. The number 49 is a serial number. Missing parts have been
+replaced with plastic. (Smithsonian photo 48400; brass plate: 48400-H.)]
+
+Although the Bradshaw machine was not in current manufacture, a machine
+based on it received the seventh United States sewing-machine patent.
+Patent 6,099 was issued to Charles Morey and Joseph B. Johnson on
+February 6, 1849. Their machine (fig. 17) was being offered for sale
+even before the patent was issued.
+
+This was the first American patent for a chainstitch machine. The stitch
+was made by an eye-pointed needle carrying the thread through the
+fabric; the thread was detained by a hook until the loop was enchained
+by the succeeding one. The fabric was held vertically by a baster plate
+in a manner similar to the Howe machine. Although not claimed in the
+patent description, the Morey and Johnson machine also had a bar device
+for stripping the cloth from the needle. This bar had a slight motion
+causing a yielding pressure to be exerted on the cloth. Although the
+patent was not granted until February 6, 1849, the application had been
+filed in April of the previous year. The machine was featured in the
+_Scientific American_ on January 27, 1849 (fig. 18):
+
+     Morey and Johnson Machine--These machines are very accurately
+     adjusted in all their parts to work in harmony, without this they
+     would be of no use. But they are now used in most of the Print
+     Works and Bleach Works in New England, and especially by the East
+     Boston Flour Company. It sews about one yard per minute, and we
+     consider it superior to the London Sewing Machine the specification
+     of which is in our possession. It [Morey and Johnson] is more
+     simple--and this is a great deal.... The price of a machine and
+     right to use $135.[36]
+
+An improvement in the Morey and Johnson machine was patented by Jotham
+S. Conant for which he was issued a patent on May 8, 1849. Conant's
+machine offered a slight modification of the cloth bar and of the method
+of keeping the cloth taut during the stitching operation. No successful
+use of it is known.
+
+A second improvement of the Morey and Johnson patent was also issued on
+May 8, 1849; this United States patent (No. 6,439) was to John Bachelder
+for the first continuous, but intermittent, sewing mechanism. As shown
+in the patent model (fig. 19), his clothholder consisted of an endless
+belt supported by and running around three or any other suitable number
+of cylindrical rollers. A series of pointed wires projected from the
+surface of the belt near the edge immediately adjacent to the needle.
+The wires could be placed at regular or irregular distances as required.
+The shaft of one of the cylindrical rollers, which supported the
+endless clothholder, carried a ratchet wheel advanced by the action of a
+pawl connected to the end of the crankshaft by a small crankpin, whose
+position or distance from the axis of rotation of the shaft could be
+adjusted.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 18.--A MOREY AND JOHNSON sewing machine as
+illustrated in _Scientific American_, January 27, 1849. (Smithsonian
+photo 45771.)]
+
+By this adjustment the extent of the vertical travel of the impelling
+pawl was regulated to control the length of the stitch. A spring catch
+kept the ratchet wheel in place at the end of each forward rotation of
+the wheel by the pawl. A roller placed over the endless belt at its
+middle roller pressed the cloth onto the wire points. A curved piece of
+metal was bent over and down upon the top of the belt so that the cloth,
+as it was sewed, was carried toward and against the piece by the belt.
+The cloth rose upon and over the piece and was separated from the
+points. When the machine was in motion the cloth was carried forward,
+passed under the needle, was stitched, and finally, passed the separator
+and off the belt. A vertically reciprocating, straight, eye-pointed
+needle, a horizontal supporting surface, and a yielding cloth presser
+were all used, but none were claimed as part of the patent. These were
+later specifically claimed in reissues of this patent. Bachelder's one
+specific claim, the endless feed belt, was not limited to belt feeding
+only. As he explained in the patent, a revolving table or a cylinder
+might be substituted.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 19.--BACHELDER'S PATENT MODEL, 1849. (Smithsonian
+photo 45572).]
+
+Bachelder did not manufacture machines, but his patent was sold in the
+mid-1850s to I. M. Singer.[37] It eventually became one of the most
+important patents to be contributed to the "Sewing-Machine Combination,"
+a patent pool, which is discussed in more detail on pages 41 and 42.
+
+While new ideas and inventors continued to provide the answers to some
+of the sewing-machine problems, Elias Howe began a series of patent
+suits to sustain the rights that he felt were his. Since his interest
+had never been in constructing machines for sale, it was absolutely
+essential for Howe to protect his royalty rights in order to realize any
+return from his patent. He was reported[38] to have supervised the
+construction of 14 sewing machines at a shop[39] on Gold Street in New
+York toward the close of 1850. Sworn contemporary testimony indicates
+that the machines were of no practical use.[40] Elias stated, in his
+application for his patent extension,[41] that he made only one machine
+in 1850-51. In 1852 he advertised[42] territorial rights and machines,
+but apparently did not realize any financial success until he sold a
+half interest in his patent to George Bliss in November 1852.[43] Bliss
+later began manufacturing machines that he initially sold as "Howe's
+Patent"; however, these machines were substantially different from the
+basic Howe machine.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 20.--BLODGETT & LEROW SEWING MACHINE, 1850, as
+manufactured by A. Bartholf, New York; the serial number of the machine
+is 19. At right, an original brass plate from the same type of machine
+with needle arm and presser foot and arm, serial number 119; the plate,
+however, does not fit the machine correctly. (Smithsonian photo 48440-D;
+brass plate: 48440-K.)]
+
+On May 18, 1853, Elias Howe granted his first royalty license to
+Wheeler, Wilson & Company. Within a few months licenses were also
+granted to Grover & Baker; A. Bartholf; Nichols & Bliss; J. A. Lerow;
+Woolridge, Keene, and Moore; and A. B. Howe, the brother of Elias. These
+licenses granted the manufacturer the right to use any part of the Howe
+patent,[44] but it did not mean that the machines were Elias Howe
+machines. When a royalty license was paid, the patent date and sometimes
+the name was stamped onto the machine. For this reason, these machines
+are sometimes mistakenly thought to be Elias Howe machines. They are
+not.
+
+Howe was also prevented from manufacturing a practical machine unless he
+paid a royalty to other inventors. Three of the major manufacturers and
+Howe resolved their differences by forming the "Sewing Machine
+Combination." Although Howe did not enter the manufacturing competition
+for many years, he profited substantially from the royalty terms of the
+combination. In 1860, he applied for and received a seven-year extension
+on his patent.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 21.--BLODGETT & LEROW SEWING MACHINE, 1850,
+stamped with the legend "Goddard, Rice & Co., Makers, Worcester, Mass."
+and the serial number 37. Below: An original brass plate marked "No.
+38"; this plate fits the machine perfectly. (Smithsonian photo 48440-E;
+brass plate: 48440-J.)]
+
+There were Howe family machines for sale during this period, but these
+were the ones that Amasa Howe had been manufacturing since 1853. The
+machine was an excellent one and received the highest medal for sewing
+machines, together with many flattering testimonials, at the London
+International Exhibition in 1862. After the publication of this award
+the demand for (Amasa) Howe sewing machines was greatly increased at
+home and abroad. Elias took this opportunity to gain entry into the
+manufacturing business by persuading Amasa to let him build a factory at
+Bridgeport, Connecticut, and manufacture the (Amasa) Howe machines. Two
+years passed before the factory was completed, and Amasa's agents were
+discouraged. The loss could have been regained, but the machines
+produced at Bridgeport were not of the quality of the earlier machines.
+Amasa attempted to rebuild the Bridgeport machines, but finally
+abandoned them and resumed manufacturing machines in New York under his
+own immediate supervision.[45] Elias formed his own company and
+continued to manufacture sewing machines. In 1867 he requested a second
+extension of his patent, but the request was refused. Elias Howe died in
+October of the same year.
+
+Meanwhile, another important sewing machine of a different principle had
+also been patented in 1849. This was the machine of Sherburne C.
+Blodgett, a tailor by trade, who was supported financially by John A.
+Lerow. United States patent 6,766 was issued to both men on October 2,
+1849. In the patent, the machine was termed as "our new 'Rotary Sewing
+Machine'." The shuttle movement was continuous, revolving in a circle,
+rather than reciprocating as in the earlier machines. Automatic tension
+was initiated, restraining the slack thread from interference with the
+point of the needle.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 22.--WILSON'S PREPATENT MODEL for his
+reciprocating-shuttle machine, 1850. (Smithsonian photo 45525-A.)]
+
+The Blodgett and Lerow machine was built by several shops. One of the
+earliest was the shop of Orson C. Phelps on Harvard Place in Boston.
+Phelps took the Blodgett and Lerow machine to the sixth exhibition of
+the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association in September 1850 and
+won a silver medal and this praise, "This machine performed admirably;
+it is an exceedingly ingenious and compact machine, able to perform
+tailor's sewing beautifully and thoroughly."[46] Although Phelps had won
+the earliest known premium for a sewing machine, and although the
+machine was produced commercially to a considerable extent (figs. 20 and
+21), one outstanding flaw in its operation could not be overlooked. As
+the shuttle passed around the six-inch circular shuttle race, it put a
+twist in the thread (or took one out if the direction was reversed) at
+each revolution. This caused a constant breaking of the thread, a
+condition that could not be rectified without changing the principle of
+operation. Such required changes were later to lead I. M. Singer,
+another well-known name, into the work of improving this machine.
+
+Also exhibited at the same 1850 mechanics fair was the machine of Allen
+B. Wilson. Wilson's machine received only a bronze medal, but his
+inventive genius was to have a far greater effect on the development of
+the practical sewing machine than the work of Blodgett and Lerow. A. B.
+Wilson[47] was one of the ablest of the early inventors in the field of
+mechanical stitching, and probably the most original.
+
+Wilson, a native of Willett, New York, was a young cabinetmaker at
+Adrian, Michigan, in 1847 when he first conceived of a machine that
+would sew. He was apparently unaware of parallel efforts by inventors in
+distant New England. After an illness, he moved to Pittsfield,
+Massachusetts, and pursued his idea in earnest. By November 1848 he had
+produced the basic drawings for a machine that would make a lockstitch.
+The needle, piercing the cloth, left a loop of thread below the seam. A
+shuttle carrying a second thread passed through the loop, and as the
+tension was adjusted a completed lockstitch was formed (fig. 22).
+Wilson's shuttle was pointed on both ends to form a stitch on both its
+forward and backward motion, a decided improvement over the shuttles of
+Hunt and Howe, which formed stitches in only one direction. After each
+stitch the cloth was advanced for the next stitch by a sliding bar
+against which the cloth was held by a stationary presser. While the
+needle was still in the cloth and holding it, the sliding bar returned
+for a fresh grip on the cloth.
+
+Wilson made a second machine, on the same principle, and applied for a
+patent. He was approached by the owners of the Bradshaw 1848 patent,
+who claimed control of the double-pointed shuttle. Although this claim
+was without justification, as can be seen by examining the Bradshaw
+patent specifications, Wilson did not have sufficient funds to fight the
+claim. In order to avoid a suit, he relinquished to A. P. Kline and
+Edward Lee, a one-half interest in his U.S. patent 7,776 which was
+issued on November 12, 1850 (fig. 23).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 23.--WILSON'S PATENT MODEL, 1850. (Smithsonian
+photo 45504-H.)]
+
+Inventor Wilson had been associated with Kline and Lee (E. Lee & Co.)
+for only a few months, when, on November 25, 1850, he agreed to sell his
+remaining interest to his partners for $2,000. He retained only limited
+rights for New Jersey and for Massachusetts. The sale was fruitless for
+the inventor, as no payment was ever made. How much money E. E. Lee &
+Co. realized from the Wilson machine is difficult to determine, but they
+ran numerous ads in the 1851 and 1852 issues of _Scientific American_. A
+typical one reads:
+
+     A. B. Wilson's Sewing Machine, justly allowed to be the cheapest
+     and best now in use, patented November 12, 1850; can be seen on
+     exhibition at 195 and 197 Broadway (formerly the Franklin House,
+     Room 23, third floor) or to E. E. Lee & Co., Earle's Hotel. Rights
+     for territory or machines can be had by applying to George R.
+     Chittenden, Agent.[48]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 24.--WILSON'S PREPATENT MODEL for his rotary hook,
+1851. (Smithsonian photo 45506-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 25.--WILSON'S ROTARY-HOOK PATENT MODEL, 1851.
+(Smithsonian photo 45505-B.)]
+
+Another reads:
+
+     A. B. Wilson's Sewing Machine ... the best and only practical
+     sewing machine--not larger than a lady's work box--for the trifling
+     sum of $35.[49]
+
+Wilson severed relations with Lee and Kline in early 1851 shortly after
+meeting Nathaniel Wheeler, who was to become his partner in a happier,
+more profitable enterprise involving the sewing machine.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 26.--WILSON'S stationary-bobbin patent model,
+1852; a commercial machine was used since Wheeler, Wilson, Co. had begun
+manufacturing machines the previous year. (Smithsonian photo 45504-B.)]
+
+Wilson, with his two partners, was occupying a room in the old Sun
+Building at 128 Fulton Street, when Wheeler, on a business trip to New
+York City, learned of the Wilson sewing machine. Wheeler examined the
+machine, saw its possibilities, and at once contracted with E. Lee & Co.
+to make 500 of them. At the same time he engaged Wilson to go with him
+to Watertown, Connecticut, to perfect the machine and supervise its
+manufacture. Meanwhile, Wilson had been working on a substitute for the
+shuttle. He showed his model of the device, which became known as the
+rotary hook, to Wheeler who was so convinced of its superiority that he
+decided to develop this new machine and leave Wilson's first machine to
+the others, who, by degrees, had become its owners.
+
+Wilson now applied all his effort to improving the rotary hook, for
+which he received his second patent on August 12, 1851 (figs. 24 and
+25). Wheeler, his two partners Warren and Woodruff, and Wilson now
+formed a new copartnership--Wheeler, Wilson, and Company. They began the
+manufacture of the machines under the patent, which combined the rotary
+hook and a reciprocating bobbin. The rotary hook extended or opened more
+widely the loop of the needle thread, while a reciprocating bobbin
+carried its thread through the extended loop. To avoid litigation which
+the reciprocating bobbin might have caused, Wilson contrived his third
+outstanding invention--the stationary bobbin. This was a feature of the
+first machine produced by the new company in 1851, though the patent
+for the stationary bobbin was not issued until June 15, 1852 (fig. 26).
+
+In all reciprocating-shuttle machines a certain loss of power is
+incurred in driving forward, stopping, and bringing back the shuttle at
+each stitch; also, the machines are rather noisy, owing to the striking
+of the driver against the shuttle at each stroke. These objections were
+removed by Wilson's rotary hook and stationary bobbin. The locking of
+the needle thread with the bobbin thread was accomplished, not by
+driving a shuttle through the loop of the needle thread, but by passing
+that loop under the bobbin. The driving shaft carried the circular
+rotary hook, one of the sewing machine's most beautiful contrivances.
+The success of the machine is indicated in an article that appeared in
+the June 1853 issue of _Scientific American_:
+
+     There are 300 of these machines now in operation in various parts
+     of the country, and the work which they can perform cannot be
+     surpassed.... The time must soon come when every private family
+     that has much sewing to do, will have one of these neat and perfect
+     machines; indeed many private families have them now.... The price
+     of one all complete is $125; every machine is made under the eye of
+     the inventor at the company's machine shop, Watertown, Connecticut,
+     so that every one is warranted ... agreement between Mr. Howe and
+     Messrs. Wheeler, Wilson & Co., so every customer will be perfectly
+     protected....[50]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 27.--WILSON'S four-motion-feed patent model, 1854,
+is not known to be in existence; this is a commercial machine of the
+period. The plate is stamped "A. B. Wilson, Patented Aug. 12, 1851,
+Watertown, Conn., No. 1...." (Smithsonian photo 45504.)]
+
+This agreement was important to sales, as Elias Howe was known to have
+sued purchasers of machines, as well as rival inventors and companies.
+
+The business was on a substantial basis by October 1853, and a stock
+company was formed under the name of Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing
+Company.[51] A little more than a year later, on December 19, 1854,
+Wilson's fourth important patent (U.S. patent 12,116)--for the
+four-motion cloth feed--was issued to him (fig. 27). In this
+development, the flat-toothed surface in contact with the cloth moved
+forward carrying the cloth with it; then it dropped a little, so as not
+to touch the cloth; next it moved backward; then in the fourth motion it
+pushed up against the cloth and was ready to repeat the forward
+movements. This simple and effective feed method is still used today,
+with only minor modifications, in almost every sewing machine. This feed
+with the rotary hook and the stationary circular-disk bobbin, completed
+the essential features of Wilson's machine. It was original and
+fundamentally different from all other machines of that time.
+
+The resulting Wheeler and Wilson machine made a lockstitch by means of a
+curved eye-pointed needle carried by a vibrating arm projecting from a
+rock shaft connected by link and eccentric strap with an eccentric on
+the rotating hook shaft. This shaft had at its outer end the rotary
+hook, provided with a point adapted to enter the loop of needle thread.
+As the hook rotated, it passed into and drew down the loop of
+needle-thread, which was held by means of a loop check, while the point
+of the hook entered a new loop. When the first loop was cast off--the
+face of the hook being beveled for that purpose--it was drawn upward by
+the action of the hook upon the loop through which it was then passing.
+During the rotation of the hook each loop was passed around a disk
+bobbin provided with the second thread and serving the part of the
+shuttle in other machines. The four-motion feed was actuated in this
+machine by means of a spring bar and a cam in conjunction with the
+mandrel.
+
+From the beginning, Wheeler and Wilson had looked beyond the use of the
+sewing machine solely by manufacturers and had seen the demand for a
+light-running, lightweight machine for sewing in the home. Wilson's
+inventions lent themselves to this design, and Wheeler and Wilson led
+the way to the introduction of the machine as a home appliance. Other
+manufacturers followed.
+
+When the stock company was formed, Mr. Wilson retired from active
+participation in the business at his own request. His health had not
+been good, and a nervous condition made it advisable for him to be freed
+from the responsibility of daily routine. During this period Wilson's
+inventive contributions to the sewing machine continued as noted, and in
+addition he worked on inventions concerning cotton picking and
+illuminating gases.
+
+Wheeler and Wilson's foremost competitor in the early years of
+sewing-machine manufacture was the Singer Company, which overtook them
+by 1870 and finally absorbed the entire Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing
+Company in 1905.
+
+The founder of this most successful 19th-century company was Isaac
+Singer, a native of Pittstown, New York.[52] Successively a mechanic, an
+actor, and an inventor, Singer came to Boston in 1850 to promote his
+invention of a machine for carving printers' wooden type. He exhibited
+the carving machine in Orson Phelps' shop, where the Blodgett and Lerow
+machines were being manufactured.
+
+Because the carving machine evoked but little interest, Singer turned
+his attention to the sewing machine as a device offering considerable
+opportunity for both improvement and financial reward. Phelps liked
+Singer's ideas and joined with George Zieber, the publisher who had been
+backing the carving-machine venture, to support Singer in the work of
+improving the sewing machine. His improvements in the Blodgett and Lerow
+machine included a table to hold the cloth horizontally rather than
+vertically (this had been used by Bachelder and Wilson also), a yielding
+vertical presser foot to hold the cloth down as the needle was drawn up,
+and a vertically reciprocating straight needle driven by a rotary,
+overhanging shaft.
+
+The story of the invention and first trial of the machine was told by
+Singer in the course of a patent suit sometime later:
+
+     I explained to them how the work was to be fed over the table and
+     under the presser-foot, by a wheel, having short pins on its
+     periphery, projecting through a slot in the table, so that the work
+     would be automatically caught, fed and freed from the pins, in
+     place of attaching and detaching the work to and from the baster
+     plate by hand, as was necessary in the Blodgett machine.
+
+     Phelps and Zieber were satisfied that it would work. I had no
+     money. Zieber offered forty dollars to build a model machine.
+     Phelps offered his best endeavors to carry out my plan and make the
+     model in his shop; if successful we were to share equally. I worked
+     at it day and night, sleeping but three or four hours a day out of
+     the twenty-four, and eating generally but once a day, as I knew I
+     must make it for the forty dollars or not get it at all.
+
+     The machine was completed in eleven days. About nine o'clock in the
+     evening we got the parts together and tried it; it did not sew; the
+     workmen exhausted with almost unremitting work, pronounced it a
+     failure and left me one by one.
+
+     Zieber held the lamp, and I continued to try the machine, but
+     anxiety and incessant work had made me nervous and I could not get
+     tight stitches. Sick at heart, about midnight, we started for our
+     hotel. On the way we sat down on a pile of boards, and Zieber
+     mentioned that the loose loops of thread were on the upper side of
+     the cloth. It flashed upon me that we had forgot to adjust the
+     tension on the needle thread. We went back, adjusted the tension,
+     tried the machine, sewed five stitches perfectly and the thread
+     snapped, but that was enough. At three o'clock the next day the
+     machine was finished. I took it to New York and employed Mr.
+     Charles M. Keller to patent it. It was used as a model in the
+     application for the patent.[53]
+
+The first machine was completed about the last of September 1850. The
+partners considered naming the machine the "Jenny Lind," after the
+Swedish soprano who was then the toast of America. It was reported[54]
+to have been advertised under that name when the machine was first
+placed on the market, but the name was soon changed to "Singer's
+Perpendicular Action Sewing Machine" or simply the "Singer Sewing
+Machine"--a name correctly anticipated to achieve a popularity of its
+own.
+
+According to the contract made by the partners, the hurriedly built
+first machine was to be sent to the Patent Office with an application in
+the name of Singer and Phelps. An application was made between the end
+of September 1850 and March 14, 1851, as Singer refers to it briefly in
+the application formally filed on April 16, 1851, stating, "My present
+invention is of improvements on a machine heretofore invented by me and
+for which an application is now pending."[55]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 28.--SINGER'S PATENT MODEL, 1851; a commercial
+machine was used, bearing the serial number 22. (Smithsonian photo
+45572-D.)]
+
+In late December 1850 Singer had bought Phelps' interest in the company.
+Whether the first application was later abandoned by Singer or whether
+it was rejected is not known,[56] but a patent on the first application
+was never issued. The final disposition of this first machine has
+remained a mystery.[57]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 29.--SINGER'S PERPENDICULAR ACTION sewing machine,
+an engraving from _Illustrated News_, June 25, 1853, which states: "The
+sewing machine has, within the last two years acquired a wide celebrity,
+and established its character as one of the most efficient labor saving
+instruments ever introduced to public notice.... We must not forget to
+call attention to the fact that this instrument is peculiarly calculated
+for female operatives. They should never allow its use to be monopolized
+by men." (Smithsonian photo 48091-D.)]
+
+A few machines were manufactured in late 1850 and early 1851, and these
+attracted considerable attention; orders began to be received in advance
+of production. The pending patent application did not delay the
+manufacture, and a number of machines were sold before August 12, 1851,
+when the patent was granted. The patent model is shown in figure 28.[58]
+It made a lockstitch by means of a straight eye-pointed needle and a
+reciprocating shuttle. The patent claims, as quoted from the
+specifications, were as follows:
+
+     1. Giving to the shuttle an additional forward motion after it has
+     been stopped to close the loop, as described, for the purpose of
+     drawing the stitch tight, when such additional motion is given at
+     and in combination with the feed motion of the cloth in the reverse
+     direction, and the final upward motion of the needle, as described,
+     so that the two threads shall be drawn tight at the same time, as
+     described.
+
+     2. Controlling the thread during the downward motion of the needle
+     by the combination of a friction-pad to prevent the slack above the
+     cloth, with the eye on the needle-carrier for drawing back the
+     thread, for the purposes and in the manner substantially as
+     described.
+
+     3. Placing the bobbin from which the needle is supplied with thread
+     on an adjustable arm attached to the frame, substantially as
+     described, when this is combined with the carrying of the said
+     thread through an eye or guide attached to and moving with the
+     needle-carrier, as described, whereby any desired length of thread
+     can be given for the formation of the loop without varying the
+     range of motion of the needle, as described.
+
+The feeding described in the Singer patent was "by the friction surface
+of a wheel, whose periphery is formed with very fine grooves, the edges
+of which are slightly serrated, against which the cloth is pressed by a
+spring plate or pad." Although claimed by the inventor in the
+handwritten specifications, it was not allowed as original.
+
+The machines manufactured by the Singer company (fig. 29) were
+duplicates of the patent model. These machines were quite heavy and
+intended for manufacturing rather than for family use in the home.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 30.--I. M. SINGER & CO. NEW YORK SHOWROOM of the
+mid-1850s, as illustrated in _Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper_,
+August 29, 1857; only manufacturing machines are shown in this
+illustration. (Smithsonian photo 48091-B.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 31.--HUNT AND WEBSTER'S SEWING-MACHINE MANUFACTORY
+exhibition and salesroom in Boston, as illustrated in _Ballou's
+Pictorial_, July 5, 1856; only manufacturing machines are shown.
+(Smithsonian photo 45771-A.)]
+
+Singer enjoyed demonstrating the machine and showed it to church and
+social groups and even at circuses; this personal association then
+encouraged him to improve its reliability and convenience. He developed
+a wooden packing case which doubled as a stand for the machine and a
+treadle to allow it to be operated by foot. Because of the dimensions of
+the packing case, Singer put the pivot of the treadle toward its center,
+about where the instep of the foot would rest. This produced the
+heel-and-toe action treadle, a familiar part of the sewing machine until
+its replacement by the electric motor. Both hands were freed to guide
+and arrange the cloth that was being stitched. Singer also added a
+flywheel to smooth out the treadle action and later an iron stand with a
+treadle wide enough for both feet. The treadle had been in use for two
+years before a rival pointed out that it might have been patented. To
+Singer's chagrin it was then too late for patent laws did not permit
+patenting a device that had been in public use.
+
+A new obstacle appeared in the Singer company's path when Howe demanded
+$25,000 for infringement of his patent. Singer and Zieber decided to
+fight, enlisting the legal aid of Edward Clark, a lawyer and financier.
+Howe's action was opposed on the basis of Hunt's machine of 1834, which
+they stated had anticipated Howe's invention.
+
+While they were resisting, Howe sued three firms that were using and
+selling Singer machines. The court order required the selling firms and
+the purchasers to provide an account of the profits accrued from the
+sale and the use of the sewing machines and restrained the firms from
+selling the machines during the pendency of the suit.[59] As a result of
+this action, a number of Singer's rivals purchased licenses from Howe
+and advertised that anyone could sell their machines without fear of a
+suit. This gave them a great competitive advantage, and Singer and
+Clark[60] decided it was best to seek a settlement with Howe. On July 1,
+1854, they paid him $15,000 and took out a license.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 32.--SINGER'S NEW FAMILY SEWING MACHINE,
+illustration from a brochure dating about 1858 or 1859 which states: "A
+few months since, we came to the conclusion that the public taste
+demanded a sewing machine for family purposes more exclusively; a
+machine of smaller size, and of a lighter and more elegant form; a
+machine decorated in the best style of art, so as to make a beautiful
+ornament in the parlor or boudoir; a machine very easily operated, and
+rapid in working.... To supply this public want, we have just produced,
+and are now prepared to receive orders for, 'Singer's new Family Sewing
+Machine.'" (Smithsonian photo 48091-H.)]
+
+In spite of this defeat, the Singer company could claim several
+important improvements to the sewing machine and the acquisition of the
+patents rights to the Morey and Johnson machine of 1849, which gave them
+control of the spring or curved arm to hold the cloth by a yielding
+pressure. Although this point had not been claimed in the 1849 patent,
+the established principle of patent law allowed that a novel device
+introduced and used in a patented machine could be covered by a reissue
+at any time during the life of the patent. Upon becoming owners of the
+Morey and Johnson patent, Singer applied for a reissue which covered
+this type of yielding pressure. It was granted on June 27, 1854. The
+Singer company's acquisition of the Bachelder patent had given them
+control of the yielding pressure bar also.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 33.--SINGER FAMILY MACHINE, 1858, head only.
+(Smithsonian photo 45524-F.)]
+
+Singer's aggressive selling had begun to overcome the public's suspicion
+of sewing machines. He pioneered in the use of lavishly decorated
+sewing-machine showrooms when the company offices were expanded in the
+mid-1850s (fig. 30). These were rich with carved walnut furniture,
+gilded ornaments, and carpeted floors, places in which Victorian women
+were not ashamed to be seen. The machines were demonstrated by pretty
+young women. The total effect was a new concept of selling, and Singer
+became the drum major of a new and coming industry that had many
+followers (see fig. 31).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 34.--GROVER AND BAKER'S PATENT MODEL, 1851.
+(Smithsonian photo 32003-G.)]
+
+The first, light, family sewing machine by the Singer company was not
+manufactured until 1858 (figs. 32 and 33). Comparatively few of these
+machines were made as they proved to be too small and light. The men in
+the shop dubbed the machine "The Grasshopper," but it was officially
+called the new Family Sewing Machine or the Family Machine.[61] Because
+of its shape, Singer company brochures of the 1920s referred to it as
+the Turtleback Machine.
+
+Since the cost of sewing machines was quite high and the average family
+income was low, Clark suggested the adoption of the hire-purchase plan.
+Into the American economy thus came the now-familiar installment
+buying.
+
+Singer and Clark continued to be partners until 1863 when a corporation
+was formed. At this time Singer decided to withdraw from active work. He
+received 40 percent of the stock and retired to Paris and later to
+England, where he died in 1875.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 35.--THIS GROVER AND BAKER CABINET-STYLE SEWING
+MACHINE of 1856 bears the serial number 5675 and the patent dates
+February 11, 1851, June 22, 1852, February 22, 1853, and May 27, 1856.
+(Smithsonian photo 45572-F.)]
+
+By the mid-1850s the basic elements of a successful, practical sewing
+machine were at hand, but the continuing court litigation over rival
+patent rights seemed destined to ruin the economics of the new industry.
+It was then that the lawyer of the Grover and Baker company, another
+sewing-machine manufacturer of the early 1850s, supplied the solution.
+Grover and Baker were manufacturing a machine that was mechanically
+good, for this early period. William O. Grover was another Boston
+tailor, who, unlike many others, was convinced that the sewing machine
+was going to revolutionize his chosen trade. Although the sewing
+machines that he had seen were not very practical, he began in 1849 to
+experiment with an idea based on a new kind of stitch. His design was
+for a machine that would take both its threads from spools and eliminate
+the need to wind one thread upon a bobbin. After much experimenting, he
+proved that it was possible to make a seam by interlocking two threads
+in a succession of slipknots, but he found that building a machine to do
+this was a much more difficult task. It is quite surprising that while
+he was working on this idea, he did not stumble upon a good method to
+produce the single-thread (as opposed to Grover and Baker's two-thread)
+chainstitch, later worked out by another. Grover was working so intently
+on the use of two threads that apparently no thought of forming a stitch
+with one thread had a chance to develop.
+
+At this time Grover became a partner with another Boston tailor,
+William E. Baker, and on February 11, 1851, they were issued U.S. patent
+No. 7,931 for a machine that did exactly what Grover had set out to do;
+it made a double chainstitch with two threads both carried on ordinary
+thread spools. The machine (figs. 34 and 35) used a vertical eye-pointed
+needle for the top thread and a horizontal needle for the underthread.
+The cloth was placed on the horizontal platform or table, which had a
+hole for the entry of the vertical needle. When this needle passed
+through the cloth, it formed a loop on the underside. The horizontal
+needle passed through this loop forming another loop beyond, which was
+retained until the redescending vertical needle enchained it, and the
+process repeated. The slack in the needle thread was controlled by means
+of a spring guide. The cloth was fed by feeding rolls and a band.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 36.--GROVER'S PATENT MODEL FOR THE FIRST PORTABLE
+CASE, 1856. The machine in the case is a commercial machine of 1854,
+bearing the serial number 3012 and the patent dates "Feby 11, 1851, June
+22, 1852, Feby 22, 1853." Powered by a single, foot-shaped treadle that
+was connected by a removable wooden pitman, it also could be turned by
+hand. (Smithsonian photo 45525-D.)]
+
+A company was organized under the name of Grover and Baker Sewing
+Machine Company, and soon the partners took Jacob Weatherill, mechanic,
+and Orlando B. Potter, lawyer (who became the president), into the firm.
+Potter contributed his ability as a lawyer in lieu of a financial
+investment and handled the several succeeding patents of Grover and
+Baker. These patents were primarily for mechanical improvements such as
+U.S. patent No. 9,053 issued to Grover and Baker on June 22, 1852, for
+devising a curved upper needle and an under looper[62] to form the
+double-looped stitch which became known as the Grover and Baker stitch.
+One of the more interesting of the patents, however, was for the box or
+sewing case for which Grover was issued U.S. patent No. 14,956 on May
+27, 1856. The inventor stated "that when open the box shall constitute
+the bed for the machine to be operated upon, and hanging the machine
+thereto to facilitate oiling, cleansing, and repairs without removing it
+from the box." It was the first portable sewing machine (fig. 36).
+
+Though the Grover and Baker company manufactured machines using a
+shuttle and producing the more common lockstitch, both under royalty in
+their own name and also for other smaller companies, Potter was
+convinced that the Grover and Baker stitch was the one that eventually
+would be used in both family and commercial machines. He, as president,
+directed the efforts of the company to that end. When the basic patents
+held by the "Sewing-Machine Combination" (discussed on pp. 41-42) began
+to run out in the mid-1870s, dissolving its purpose and lowering the
+selling price of sewing machines, the Grover and Baker company began a
+systematic curtailing of expenses and closing of branch offices. All the
+patents held by the company and the business itself were sold to
+another company.[63] But the members of the Grover and Baker company
+fared well financially by the strategic move.
+
+The Grover and Baker machine and its unique stitch did not have a great
+influence on the overall development of the mechanics of machine sewing.
+The merits of a double-looped stitch--its elasticity and the taking of
+both threads from commercial spools--were outweighed by the bulkiness of
+the seam and its consumption of three times as much thread as the
+lockstitch required. Machines making a similar type of stitch have
+continued in limited use in the manufacture of knit goods and other
+products requiring an elastic seam. But, more importantly, Grover and
+Baker's astute Orlando B. Potter placed their names in the annals of
+sewing-machine history by his work in forming the "Combination,"
+believed to be the first "trust" of any prominence.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[33] See biographical sketch, pp. 138-141.
+
+[34] _In the Matter of the Application of Elias Howe, Jr. for an
+Extension of His Sewing Machine Patent Dated September 10, 1846_, New
+York, 1860, with attachments A and B, U.S. Patent Office. [L.C. call no.
+TJ 1512.H6265]
+
+[35] It is interesting to note that when William Thomas applied for the
+British patent of the Howe machine (issued Dec. 1, 1846), the courts
+would not allow the claim for the combination of the eye-pointed needle
+and shuttle to form a stitch, due to the Fisher and Gibbons patent of
+1844. For more details on Howe's years in England see his biographical
+sketch, pp. 138-141.
+
+[36] The machine referred to as the London Sewing Machine is the British
+patent of the Thimonnier machine. This patent was applied for by Jean
+Marie Magnin and was published by _Newton's London Journal_, vol. 39, p.
+317, as Magnin's invention.
+
+[37] The exact date is not known; however, it was prior to 1856 as the
+patent was included in the sewing-machine patent pool formed that year.
+
+[38] JAMES PARTON, _History of the Sewing Machine_, p. 12, (originally
+published in the _Atlantic Monthly_, May 1867), later reprinted by the
+Howe Machine Company as a separate.
+
+[39] _Sewing Machine Times_ (Feb. 25, 1907), vol. 17, no. 382, p. 1,
+"His [Bonata's] shop was on Gold Street, New York, near the Bartholf
+shop, where Howe was building some of his early machines."
+
+[40] _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 3, no. 5, p. 5, Sept. 1881-Jan. 1882.
+"History of the Sewing Machine."
+
+[41] Op. cit. (footnote 34).
+
+[42] _New York Daily Tribune_, Jan. 15, 1852, p. 2.
+
+[43] See Howe's biographical sketch, p. 141.
+
+[44] Op. cit. (footnote 34). Attachments A and B are copies of Judge
+Sprague's decisions.
+
+[45] _Sewing Machine Journal_ (July 1887), pp. 93-94.
+
+[46] _Report of the Sixth Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association, in the City of Boston, September 1850_ (Boston,
+1850).
+
+[47] See biographical sketch, pp. 141-142.
+
+[48]_Scientific American_ (Dec. 6, 1851), vol. 7, no. 12, p. 95.
+
+[49] Ibid. (Sept. 20, 1851), vol. 7, no. 1, p. 7.
+
+[50] Ibid. (June 4, 1853), vol. 7, no. 38, p. 298
+
+[51] J. D. VAN SLYCK, _New England Manufactures and Manufactories_, vol.
+2, pp. 672-682.
+
+[52] See his biographical sketch, pp. 142-143.
+
+[53] CHESTER MCNEIL, _A History of the Sewing Machine_ in Union Sales
+Bulletin, vol. 3, Union Special Sewing Machine Co., Chicago, Illinois,
+pp. 83-85. 1903.
+
+[54] _Sewing Machine Times_ (Aug. 25, 1908), vol. 18, no. 418.
+
+[55] Singer gives this limited description of the first machine, with
+detailed improvements for which he was then applying for a patent: "In
+my previous machine, to which reference has been made, the bobbin was
+carried by the needle-carrier, and hence the motion of the needle had to
+be equal to the length of thread required to form the loop, which was
+objectionable, as in many instances this range of motion was
+unnecessarily long for all other purposes...." Quoted from U.S. patent
+8,294 issued to Isaac M. Singer, Aug. 12, 1851. It should be noted that
+in some instances there was a considerable lapse of time from the date a
+patent application was made until the patent was issued. In this case
+the handwritten specifications were dated March 14, 1851, and the formal
+Patent Office receipt was dated April 16, 1851.
+
+[56] If a patent was not approved, for any reason, the records were
+placed in an "Abandoned File." In 1930 Congress authorized the disposal
+of the old "Abandoned Files," requiring them to be kept for twenty years
+only. There are no Singer Company records giving an account of the first
+patent application.
+
+[57] Its whereabouts was unknown as early as 1908, as stated in the
+_Sewing Machine Times_ (Aug. 25, 1908), vol. 18, no. 418. Models of
+abandoned patents frequently remained at the Patent Office.
+Approximately 76,000 models were ruined in a Patent Office fire in 1877.
+In 1908 over 3000 models of abandoned patents were sold at auction.
+Either incident could account for the machine's disappearance.
+
+[58] The patent model of 8,294 is a machine that bears the serial number
+22; it was manufactured before April 18, 1851, the date it was recorded
+as received by the Patent Office.
+
+[59] William R. Bagnall, in "Contributions to American Economic
+History," vol. 1 (1908), MS, Harvard School of Business Library.
+
+[60] Singer purchased Phelps' interest in the company in 1851 and sold
+it to Edward Clark.
+
+[61] This first, family sewing machine should not be confused in name
+with a model brought out in the sixties. The name of this first, family
+machine was in the sense of a new "family" sewing machine. In 1859 a
+"Letter A" family machine was introduced. Thus in 1865 when the Singer
+Company brought out another family machine they called it the "New"
+Family Sewing Machine. Both the first-style Family machine and the
+Letter A machine are illustrated in _Eighty Years of Progress of the
+United States_ (New York, 1861), vol. 2, p. 417, and discussed in an
+article, "The Place and Its Tenants," in the _Sewing Machine Times_
+(Dec. 25, 1908), vol. 27, no. 893.
+
+[62] A looper on the underside in place of the horizontal needle.
+
+[63] Domestic Sewing Machine Company. See _Union Special Sewing Machine
+Co. Sales Bulletin_, vol. 3, ch. 15, pp. 58-59.
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter Three_
+
+
+[Illustration:
++----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
+|   A PARTIAL STATEMENT FROM RECORDS OF "THE SEWING-MACHINE COMBINATION,"    |
+|             SHOWING NUMBER OF SEWING-MACHINES LICENSED ANNUALLY            |
+|                       UNDER THE _ELIAS HOWE_ PATENT.                       |
++-----+--------+---------+---------+---------+------+-------+-------+--------+
+|NAME |Wheeler |I. M.    |The      |Grover & |A. B. |Leavitt|Ladd & |Bartholf|
+|OF   |&       |Singer   |Singer   |Baker    |Howe  |S. M.  |Webster|S. M.   |
+|MANU-|Wilson  |& Co.    |Manufac- |S. M. Co.|S. M. |Co.    |S. M.  |Co.     |
+|FACT-|Mfg. Co.|         |turing   |         |Co.   |       |Co.    |        |
+|URER.|        |         |Co.      |         |      |       |       |        |
++-----+--------+---------+---------+---------+------+-------+-------+--------+
+|1853 |799     |810      |....     |657      |....  |28     |100    |135     |
+|1854 |756     |879      |....     |2,034    |60    |217    |268    |55      |
+|1855 |1,171   |883      |....     |1,144    |53    |152    |73     |31      |
+|1856 |2,210   |2,564    |....     |1,952    |47    |235    |180    |35      |
+|1857 |4,591   |3,630    |....     |3,680    |133   |195    |453    |31      |
+|1858 |7,978   |3,594    |....     |5,070    |179   |75     |490    |203     |
+|1859 |21,306  |10,953   |....     |10,280   |921   |213    |1,788  |747     |
+|1860 |25,102  |13,000(a)|....     |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |        |
+|1861 |18,556  |16,000(a)|....     |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1862 |28,202  |18,396   |....     |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1863 |29,778  |....     |20,030   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1864 |40,062  |....     |23,632   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1865 |39,157  |....     |26,340   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1866 |50,132  |....     |30,960   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
++-----+--------+---------+---------+---------+------+-------+-------+--------+
+
++-------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
+|    A PARTIAL STATEMENT SHOWING NUMBER OF SEWING-MACHINES LICENSED ANNUALLY    |
+|                         FROM 1867 TO 1876 INCLUSIVE.                          |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+| NAME OF MANUFACTURER.      |  1867.   |  1868.  |  1869.  |  1870.  |  1871.  |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+|The Singer Manufacturing Co.|43,053    |59,629   |86,781   |127,833  |181,260  |
+|Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co.   |38,055    |(b)      |78,866   |83,208   |128,526  |
+|Grover & Baker S. M. Co.    |32,999    |35,000(a)|35,188   |57,402   |50,838   |
+|Weed Sewing-Machine Co.     |3,638     |12,000   |19,687   |35,002   |39,655   |
+|Howe Sewing-Machine Co.     |11,053    |35,000(a)|45,000(a)|75,156   |134,010  |
+|A. B. Howe     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |20,051   |
+|B. P. Howe     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Willcox & Gibbs S. M.  Co.  |14,152    |15,000   |17,201   |28,890   |30,127   |
+|Wilson (W. G.)   "      "   |....      |....     |....     |....     |21,153   |
+|American B. H. & S. M. Co.  |....      |....     |7,792    |14,573   |20,121   |
+|Florence S. M. Co.          |10,534    |12,000   |13,661   |17,660   |15,947   |
+|Shaw & Clark  S. M. Co.     |2,692     |3,000    |....     |....     |....     |
+|Gold Medal    "  "  "       |....      |....     |....     |8,912    |13,562   |
+|Davis         "  "  "       |....      |....     |....     |....     |11,568   |
+|Domestic      "  "  "       |....      |....     |....     |....     |10,397   |
+|Finkle & Lyon Mfg. Co. and  |2,488     |2,000    |1,339    |2,420    |7,639    |
+|  Victor.                   |          |         |         |         |         |
+|Ætna Sewing-Machine Co.     |2,958     |3,500    |4,548    |5,806    |4,720    |
+|Blees   "      "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |4,557    |
+|Elliptic "     "     "      |3,185     |....     |....     |....     |4,555    |
+|Empire  "      "     "      |2,121     |5,000    |8,700    |....     |....     |
+|Remington Sewing-Machine Co.|....      |....     |....     |3,560    |2,965    |
+|Parham       "      "     " |....      |....     |1,141    |1,766    |2,056    |
+|Bartram & Fanton Mfg. Co.   |2,958     |....     |....     |....     |1,004    |
+|Bartlett Sewing-Machine Co. |....      |....     |....     |....     |614      |
+|J. G. Folsom                |....      |....     |....     |....     |280      |
+|McKay Sewing-Machine Asso.  |....      |....     |....     |129      |218      |
+|C. F. Thompson              |....      |....     |....     |....     |147      |
+|Union Buttonhole Machine Co.|....      |....     |....     |....     |124      |
+|Leavitt Sewing-Machine Co.  |1,051     |1,000    |771      |....     |....     |
+|Goodspeed & Wyman S. M. Co. |2,126     |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Keystone Sewing-Machine Co. |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Secor       "      "     "  |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Centennial  "      "     "  |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+| NAME OF MANUFACTURER.      |  1872.   |  1873.  |  1874.  |  1875.  |   1876. |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+|The Singer Manufacturing Co.|219,758   |232,444  |241,679  |249,852  |262,316  |
+|Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co.   |174,088   |119,190  |92,827   |103,740  |108,997  |
+|Grover & Baker S. M. Co.    |52,010    |36,179   |20,000(a)|15,000(a)|....     |
+|Weed Sewing-Machine Co.     |42,444    |21,769   |20,495   |21,993   |14,425   |
+|Howe Sewing-Machine Co.     |145,000(a)|90,000(a)|35,000(a)|25,000(a)|109,294  |
+|A. B. Howe     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|B. P. Howe     "     "      |14,907    |13,919   |....     |....     |....     |
+|Willcox & Gibbs S. M.  Co.  |33,639    |15,881   |13,710   |14,522   |12,758   |
+|Wilson (W. G.)   "      "   |22,666    |21,247   |17,525   |9,508    |....     |
+|American B. H. & S. M. Co.  |18,930    |14,182   |13,529   |14,406   |17,937   |
+|Florence S. M. Co.          |15,793    |8,960    |5,517    |4,892    |2,978    |
+|Shaw & Clark  S. M. Co.     |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Gold Medal    "  "  "       |18,897    |16,431   |15,214   |14,262   |7,185    |
+|Davis         "  "  "       |11,376    |8,861    |....     |....     |....     |
+|Domestic      "  "  "       |49,554    |40,114   |22,700   |21,452   |23,587   |
+|Finkle & Lyon Mfg. Co. and  |11,901    |7,446    |6,292    |6,103    |5,750    |
+|  Victor.                   |          |         |         |         |         |
+|Ætna Sewing-Machine Co.     |4,262     |3,081    |1,866    |1,447    |707      |
+|Blees   "      "     "      |6,053     |3,458    |....     |....     |....     |
+|Elliptic "     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Empire  "      "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Remington Sewing-Machine Co.|4,982     |9,183    |17,608   |25,110   |12,716   |
+|Parham       "      "     " |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Bartram & Fanton Mfg. Co.   |1,000     |1,000    |250      |....     |....     |
+|Bartlett Sewing-Machine Co. |1,000     |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|J. G. Folsom                |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|McKay Sewing-Machine Asso.  |....      |....     |128      |161      |102      |
+|C. F. Thompson              |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Union Buttonhole Machine Co.|....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Leavitt Sewing-Machine Co.  |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Goodspeed & Wyman S. M. Co. |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Keystone Sewing-Machine Co. |2,665     |217      |37       |....     |....     |
+|Secor       "      "     "  |311       |3,430    |4,541    |1,307    |....     |
+|Centennial  "      "     "  |....      |514      |....     |....     |....     |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+
+(a) Number estimated.
+(b) No data.
+
+Figure 37.--TABLE OF SEWING-MACHINE STATISTICS. From Frederick G.
+Bourne, "American Sewing Machines" in _One Hundred Years of American
+Commerce_, vol. 2. ed. Chauncey Mitchell Depew (New York: D. O. Haines,
+1895), p. 530. (Smithsonian photo 42542-A.)]
+
+
+The "Sewing-Machine Combination"
+
+With the basic elements of a successful sewing machine assembled, the
+various manufacturers should have been able to produce good machines
+unencumbered. The court order, however, which restrained several firms
+from selling Singer machines while the Howe suit was pending, started a
+landslide; soon Wheeler, Wilson and company, Grover and Baker company,
+and several others[64] purchased rights from Elias Howe. This gave Howe
+almost absolute control of the sewing-machine business as these
+companies agreed to his royalty terms of $25 for every machine sold. In
+an attempt to improve his own machine, Howe was almost immediately
+caught up in another series of legal battles in which he was the
+defendant; the companies he had defeated were able to accuse him of
+infringing on patents that they owned. To compound the confusion,
+individual companies also were suing each other on various grounds.
+
+Because of this situation Orlando B. Potter, president of the Grover and
+Baker company, advanced in 1856 the idea of a "Combination" of
+sewing-machine manufacturers. He pointed out how the various companies
+were harming themselves by continuing litigation and tried to convince
+Howe that all would benefit by an agreement of some kind. He proposed
+that Elias Howe; Wheeler, Wilson and company; I. M. Singer and company;
+and Grover and Baker company pool their patents covering the essential
+features of the machine. The three companies had started production
+about the same time and approved of Potter's idea; Howe opposed it as he
+felt that he had the most to lose by joining the "Combination." He
+finally consented to take part in Potter's plan if the others would
+agree to certain stipulations. The first requirement was that at least
+twenty-four manufacturers were to be licensed. The second was that, in
+addition to sharing equally in the profits with the three companies,
+Howe would receive a royalty of $5 for each machine sold in the United
+States and $1 for each machine exported. It has been estimated that, as
+a result of this agreement, Howe received at least $2,000,000 as his
+share of the license fees between 1856 and 1867 when his patent
+expired.[65]
+
+The organization was called the Sewing-Machine Trust and/or the
+Sewing-Machine Combination. The important patents contributed to it
+were:
+
+     1. The grooved, eye-pointed needle used with a shuttle to form the
+     lockstitch (E. Howe patent, held by E. Howe);
+
+     2. The four-motion feeding mechanism (A. B. Wilson patent, held by
+     Wheeler and Wilson company);
+
+     3. The needle moving vertically above a horizontal work-plate
+     (Bachelder patent), a continuous feeding device by belt or wheel
+     (Bachelder patent), a yielding presser resting on the cloth
+     (Bachelder patent), the spring or curved arm to hold the cloth by a
+     yielding pressure (Morey and Johnson patent), the heart-shaped cam
+     as applied to moving the needle bar (Singer patent); all these
+     patents, held by the Singer Company.[66]
+
+The Grover and Baker company contributed several patents of relative
+importance, but its most important claim for admission was the fact that
+Potter had promoted the idea.
+
+The consent of all four member-parties was required before any license
+could be granted, and all were required to have a license--even the
+member companies. The fee was $15 per machine. A portion of this money
+was set aside to pay the cost of prosecuting infringers, Howe received
+his initial fee, and the rest was divided between the four parties. The
+advantage to the licensee was that he was required to pay only one fee.
+Most license applications were granted; only those manufacturing a
+machine specifically imitating the product of a licensed manufacturer
+were refused.
+
+The "Combination's" three company members each continued to manufacture,
+improve, and perfect its own machine. Other than the joint control of
+the patents, there was no pooling of interests, and each company
+competed to attract purchasers to buy its particular type of machine, as
+did the companies who were licensed by them.
+
+In 1860, the year Howe's patent was renewed, the general license fee was
+reduced from $15 to $7, and Howe's special royalty was reduced to $1 per
+machine. Howe remained a member until his patent ran out in 1867. The
+other members continued the "Combination" until 1877, when the Bachelder
+patent, which had been extended twice, finally expired. By that time the
+fundamental features of the sewing machine were no longer controlled by
+anyone. Open competition by the smaller manufacturers was possible, and
+a slight reduction in price followed. Many new companies came into
+being--some destined to be very short-lived.
+
+From the beginning to the end of the "Combination" there was an army of
+independents, including infringers and imitators, who kept up a constant
+complaint against it, maintaining that its existence tended to retard
+the improvement of the sewing machine and that the public suffered
+thereby. In the period immediately following the termination of the
+"Combination," however, only a few improvements of any importance were
+made, and most of these were by the member companies.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[64] These included the American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co.; A.
+Bartholf; Nichols and Bliss; J. A. Lerow; Woolridge, Keene, and Moore;
+and A. B. Howe. _New York Daily Tribune_, Sept. 3, 1853.
+
+[65] "Who Invented the Sewing-Machine," unsigned article in _The
+Galaxy_, vol. 4, August 31, 1867, pp. 471-481.
+
+[66] Singer has sometimes been credited as the inventor of the various
+improvements covered by the patents that the Singer company purchased
+and later contributed to the efforts of the Combination.
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter Four_
+
+[Illustration: Figure 38.--GIBBS' PATENT MODEL, 1857. (Smithsonian photo
+45504-E.)]
+
+Less Expensive Machines
+
+
+While the "Combination" was attempting to solve the problems of patent
+litigation, another problem faced the would-be home users of this new
+invention. The budget limitations of the average family caused a demand
+for a less expensive machine, for this first consumer appliance was a
+most desirable commodity.[67]
+
+There were many attempts to satisfy this demand, but one of the best and
+most successful grew out of a young man's curiosity. James E. A. Gibbs'
+first exposure to the sewing machine was in 1855 when, at the age of 24,
+he saw a simple woodcut illustration of a Grover and Baker machine. The
+woodcut represented only the upper part of the machine. Nothing in the
+illustration indicated that more than one thread was used, and none of
+the stitch-forming mechanism was visible. Gibbs assumed that the stitch
+was formed with one thread; he then proceeded to imagine a mechanism
+that would make a stitch with one thread. His solution was described in
+his own statement:
+
+     As I was then living in a very out of the way place, far from
+     railroads and public conveyances of all kinds, modern improvements
+     seldom reached our locality, and not being likely to have my
+     curiosity satisfied otherwise, I set to work to see what I could
+     learn from the woodcut, which was not accompanied by any
+     description. I first discovered that the needle was attached to a
+     needle arm, and consequently could not pass entirely through the
+     material, but must retreat through the same hole by which it
+     entered. From this I saw that I could not make a stitch similar to
+     handwork, but must have some other mode of fastening the thread on
+     the underside, and among other possible methods of doing this, the
+     chainstitch occurred to me as a likely means of accomplishing the
+     end.
+
+     I next endeavored to discover how this stitch was or could be made,
+     and from the woodcut I saw that the driving shaft which had the
+     driving wheel on the outer end, passed along under the cloth plate
+     of the machine. I knew that the mechanism which made the stitch
+     must be connected with and actuated by this driving shaft. After
+     studying the position and relations of the needle and shaft with
+     each other, I conceived the idea of the revolving hook on the end
+     of the shaft, which might take hold of the thread and manipulate it
+     into a chainstitch. My ideas were, of course, very crude and
+     indefinite, but it will be seen that I then had the correct
+     conception of the invention afterwards embodied in my machine.[68]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 39.--ONE OF THE FIRST COMMERCIAL MACHINES produced
+by the Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Co. in 1857, this machine bears no
+serial number, although the name "James E. A. Gibbs" is inscribed in two
+places on the cloth plate. It was used as the patent model for Gibbs'
+improvement on his 1857 patent issued the following year on August 10,
+1858. (Smithsonian photo P. 6393.)]
+
+Gibbs had no immediate interest in the sewing machine other than to
+satisfy his curiosity. He did not think of it again until January 1856
+when he was visiting his father in Rockbridge County, Virginia. While in
+a tailor's shop there, he happened to see a Singer machine. Gibbs was
+very much impressed, but thought the machine entirely too heavy,
+complicated, and cumbersome, and the price exorbitant. It was then that
+he recalled the machine he had devised. Remembering how simple it was,
+he decided to work in earnest to produce a less-expensive type of sewing
+machine.
+
+Gibbs had little time to spend on this invention since his family was
+dependent upon him for support, but he managed to find time at night and
+during inclement weather. In contemporary references, Gibbs is referred
+to as a farmer, but since he is also reported to have had employers, it
+may be surmised that he was a farmhand. In any event, his decision to
+try to produce a less-expensive sewing machine suffered from a lack of
+proper tools and adequate materials. Most of the machine had to be
+constructed of wood, and he was forced to make his own needles. By the
+end of April 1856, however, his model was sufficiently completed to
+arouse the interest of his employers, who agreed to furnish the money
+necessary to patent the machine.
+
+Gibbs went to Washington, where he examined sewing-machine models in the
+Patent Office and other machines then on the market. Completing his
+investigations, Gibbs made a trip to Philadelphia and showed his
+invention to a builder of models of new inventions, James Willcox. Much
+impressed with the machine, Willcox arranged for Gibbs to work with his
+son, Charles Willcox, in a small room in the rear of his shop. After
+taking out two minor patents (on December 16, 1856, and January 20,
+1857), Gibbs obtained his important one, U.S. patent No. 17,427 on June
+2, 1857 (fig. 38). His association with Charles Willcox led to the
+formation of the Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company, and they began
+manufacturing chainstitch machines in 1857 (fig. 39). The machine used a
+straight needle to make a chainstitch. At the forward end of the main
+shaft was a hook which, as it rotated, carried the loop of
+needle-thread, elongated and held it expanded while the feed moved the
+cloth until the needle at the next stroke descended through the loop so
+held. When the needle descended through the first loop, the point of the
+hook was again in position to catch the second loop, at which time the
+first loop was cast off and the second loop drawn through it, the first
+loop having been drawn up against the lower edge of the cloth to form a
+chain.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 40.--A DOLPHIN sewing machine based on Clark's
+patent of 1858. This design was first used by T. J. W. Robertson in
+1855, but in his patent issued on May 22 of that year no claim was made
+for the machine design, only for the chainstitch mechanism. The same
+style was used by D. W. Clark in several of his chainstitch patents, but
+he also made no claim for the design, stating that the machine "may be
+made in any desired ornamental form." The dolphin-style machines are all
+chainstitch models of solid brass, originally gilt. Although only about
+five inches long, they are full-size machines using a full-size needle.
+(Smithsonian photo 45505.)]
+
+A Gibbs sewing machine, on a simple iron-frame stand with treadle, sold
+for approximately $50 in the late 1850s,[69] while a Wheeler and
+Wilson[70] machine or a Grover and Baker[71] with the same type of
+stand sold for approximately $100. After the introduction of the Gibbs
+machine, the Singer company[72] brought out a light family machine in
+1858 that was also first sold for $100. It was then reduced to $50, but
+it was not popular because it was too light (see discussion of Singer
+machines, pp. 34-35). In 1859, Singer brought out its second, more
+successful family machine, which sold for $75.
+
+Like the other companies licensed by the "Combination," Willcox and
+Gibbs company paid a royalty for the use of the patents it held.
+Although the Willcox and Gibbs machine was a single-thread chainstitch
+machine and the company held the Gibbs patents, the company was required
+to be licensed to use the basic feed, vertical needle, and other
+related patents held by the "Sewing-Machine Combination."
+
+With the approach of the Civil War, Gibbs returned to Virginia. Poor
+health prevented him from taking an active part in the war, but he
+worked throughout the conflict in a factory processing saltpeter for
+gunpowder. Afterward, Gibbs returned to Philadelphia and found that
+Willcox had faithfully protected his sewing-machine interests during his
+long absence. The firm prospered, and Gibbs finally retired to Virginia
+a wealthy man. Interestingly, Gibbs named the Virginia village to which
+he returned in later life "Raphine"--derived, somewhat incorrectly, from
+the Greek word "to sew."
+
+The Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company is one of the few old
+companies still in existence. It discontinued making and selling
+family-style machines many years ago and directed its energies toward
+specialized commercial sewing machines, many of which are based on the
+original chainstitch principle.
+
+There was also an ever-increasing number of other patentees and
+manufacturers who, in the late 1850s and 1860s, attempted to produce a
+sewing machine that would circumvent both the "Combination" and the high
+cost of manufacturing a more complicated type of machine. Some of the
+more interesting of these are pictured and described in figures 40
+through 54.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 41.--THE CHERUB sewing machine was another
+Robertson first which was adopted by Clark. Robertson's patent of
+October 20, 1857, once again makes no claim for the design; neither does
+Clark's patent of January 5, 1858, illustrated here. The machine is
+approximately the same size as the dolphin and is made in the same
+manner and of the same materials. Two cherubs form the main support, one
+also supporting the spool and leashing a dragonfly which backs the
+needle mechanism. (Smithsonian photo 45504-D.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 42.--THE FOLIAGE SEWING MACHINE originated with D.
+W. Clark. Once again he did not include the design in his June 8, 1858,
+patent, which was aimed at improving the feeding mechanism. Like most
+hand-turned models, these required a clamp to fasten them to the table
+when in operation. (Smithsonian photo 45504-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 43.--THE SEWING SHEARS was another popular machine
+of unusual style. Some models were designed to both cut and sew, but
+most derived their names from the method of motivating power. The
+earliest example of the sewing-shears machine was invented by Joseph
+Hendrick, who stated in his patent that he was attempting to produce "a
+simple, portable, cheap, and efficient machine." His patent model of
+October 5, 1858, is illustrated. (Smithsonian photo 45504-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 44.--THE HORSE SEWING MACHINE is among the most
+unusual of the patents issued for mechanical improvements. Although
+James Perry, the patentee, made several claims for the looper, feeder,
+and tension, he made no mention of the unusual design of the machine,
+for which a patent was issued on November 23, 1858. Although it was
+probably one of a kind, the horse machine illustrates the extent to
+which the inventor's mind struggled for original design. (Smithsonian
+photo 45505-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 45.--MANY INVENTORS attempted to cut the cost of
+manufacturing a complicated machine. One of these was Albert H. Hook,
+whose machine is only about four inches high and two inches wide. His
+patent, granted November 30, 1858, simplified the construction and
+arrangement of the various parts. Although Hook used a barbed needle
+reminiscent of the one used by Thimonnier, his method of forming the
+stitch was entirely different. The thread was passed through the
+necessary guides, and when the cloth was in place the needle was thrust
+up from below. Passing through the fabric, the needle descended,
+carrying with it a loop of thread. As the process was repeated, a
+chainstitch was formed with the enchained loop on the under side. In
+spite of its simple mechanism, Hook's machine was not a commercial
+success. (Smithsonian photo 45505-D.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 46.--IN ADDITION TO MECHANICAL PATENTS, a number
+of design patents were also issued for sewing machines. These fall into
+a separate series in the Patent Office's numerical records. This unusual
+example featured two semidraped female figures holding the spool of
+thread, a mermaid holding the needle, a serpent which served as the
+presser foot, and a heart-shaped baster plate. The design was patented
+by W. N. Brown, October 25, 1859, but no examples other than the patent
+model are known to have been made. (Smithsonian photo 45504-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 47.--THE SQUIRREL MACHINE was another interesting
+design patent. S. B. Ellithorp had received a mechanical patent for a
+two-thread, stationary-bobbin machine on August 26, 1857. That same
+month he published a picture of his machine, shown here as republished
+in the _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 7, no. 11, November 1885. The machine
+was designed in the shape of "the ordinary gray squirrel so common
+throughout this country--an animal that is selected as a type of
+provident care and forethought, for its habits of frugality and for
+making provision for seasons of scarcity and want in times of
+plenty--and the different parts of the animal are each put to a useful
+purpose; the moving power being placed within its body, the needle stock
+through its head, one of its fore feet serving to guide the thread, and
+the other to hold down the cloth while being sewed, and the tip of its
+tail forming a support to the spool from which the thread is supplied."
+
+Although the design patent was not secured until June 7, 1859, the
+inventor was reported to have been perfecting his machine for
+manufacture in 1857. Ellithorp planned "to place them in market at a
+price that will permit families and individuals that have heretofore
+been deterred from purchasing a machine by the excessive and exorbitant
+price charged for those now in use, to possess one." Patent rights were
+sold under the name of Ellithorp & Fox, but the machine was never
+manufactured on a large scale, if at all. No squirrel machines are known
+to have survived. (Smithsonian photo 53112.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 48.--HEYER'S POCKET SEWING MACHINE patent model,
+November 17, 1863. This patent model is one piece, and measures about
+two inches in height and two inches in length. It will stitch--but only
+coarse, loosely woven fabrics. As can be expected, a great deal of
+manual dexterity is required to compensate for the omission of
+mechanical parts. Heyer advertised patent rights for sale, but evidence
+of manufactured machines of this type has yet to be discovered.
+(Smithsonian photo 18115-D[a].)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 49.--HEYER'S MACHINE as illustrated in _Scientific
+American_, July 30, 1864. The smallest and most original of all the
+attempts to simplify machine sewing, Heyer's machine, which made a
+chainstitch, was constructed of a single strip of metal. The _Scientific
+American_ stated: "It is simply a steel spring ingeniously bent and
+arranged and it is said to sew small articles very well. The whole
+affair can easily be carried in the coat pocket."
+
+One method of operation, vibrating with the finger, was illustrated. The
+machine could be operated also by holding it in the hand and pressuring
+it between two fingers. Cloth was inserted at _c_, and the prongs of the
+spring feed _f_ carried it along after each stitch. It was stated that
+the needle could be cut from the same strip of metal, but it was advised
+also that the needle could be made as a separate piece and attached.
+(Smithsonian photo 48221.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 50.--ALTHOUGH BEAN'S AND RODGERS' running-stitch
+machines, the second and fourth U.S. sewing-machine patents, experienced
+little commercial success, small manufactured machines based on Aaron
+Palmer's patent of May 13, 1862, were popular in the 1860s. The patent
+model above is a small brass implement with crimping gears that forced
+the fabric onto an ordinary sewing needle. The full needle was then
+removed from its position, and the thread was pulled through the fabric
+by hand. (Smithsonian photo 45524.)]
+
+[Illustration: THE FAIRY SEWING-MACHINE. A HOLIDAY GIFT FOR THE
+WORK-TABLE
+
+Figure 51.--ONE OF THE EARLY COMMERCIAL MANUFACTURERS of the Palmer
+patent was Madame Demorest, a New York dressmaker. She advertised her
+Fairy sewing machine in _Godey's Lady's Book_, vol. 66, 1863, and
+stated: "In the first place it will attract attention from its
+diminutive, fairy-like size, and with the same ease with which it can be
+carried, an important matter to a seamstress or dressmaker employed from
+house to house ... What no other sewing machine attempts to do, it runs,
+and does not stitch, it sews the more delicate materials an ordinary
+sewing machine cuts or draws...." (Smithsonian photo 43690.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 52.--THE FAIRY SEWING MACHINE sold for five
+dollars and was adequate for its advertised purpose, sewing or running
+very lightweight fabrics. The machine was marked with the Palmer patent,
+the date May 13, 1862, and the name "Mme. Demorest."
+
+A machine identical to the Fairy, but bearing both Palmer patent dates,
+May 13, 1862, and June 19, 1863, and the name "Gold Medal," was
+manufactured by a less-scrupulous company. This machine was advertised
+as follows: "A first class sewing machine, handsomely ornamented, with
+all working parts silver plated. Put up in a highly polished mahogany
+case, packed ready for shipment. Price $10.00. This machine uses a
+common sewing needle, is very simple. A child can operate it. Cash with
+order." Some buyers felt they were swindled, as they had expected a
+heavy-duty machine, but no recourse could be taken against the
+advertiser. Another similar machine was also manufactured under the name
+"Little Gem." (Smithsonian photo 45525.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 53 and 54.--RUNNING-STITCH MACHINES were also
+attempted by several other inventors. Shaw & Clark, manufacturers of
+chainstitch machines, patented this running-stitch machine on April 21,
+1863. From the appearance of the patent model, it was already in
+commercial production. On May 26, 1863, John D. Dale also received a
+patent for an improvement related to the method of holding the needle
+and regulating the stitches in a running-stitch machine. Dale's patent
+model was a commercial machine.
+
+John Heberling patented several improvements in 1878 and 1880. His
+machine, which was a little larger and in appearance resembled a more
+conventional type of sewing machine, was a commercial success. (Shaw &
+Clark: Smithsonian photo P. 6395; Dale: Smithsonian photo P. 6394.)]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[67] _Scientific American_ (Jan. 29, 1859), vol. 14, no. 21, p. 165. In
+a description of the new Willcox and Gibbs sewing machine the following
+observation is made: "It is astonishing how, in a few years, the sewing
+machine has made such strides in popular favor, and become, from being a
+mechanical wonder, a household necessity and extensive object of
+manufacture. While the higher priced varieties have such a large sale,
+it is no wonder that the cheaper ones sell in such tremendous
+quantities, and that our inventors are always trying to produce
+something new and cheap."
+
+[68] Op. cit. (footnote 53), pp. 129-131.
+
+[69] _Scientific American_, vol. 15, no. 21 (January 29, 1859), p. 165,
+and Willcox and Gibbs advertising brochure, 1864.
+
+[70] _Scientific American_, vol. 12, no. 8 (November 1, 1856), p. 62.
+
+[71] Ibid., vol. 1, no. 19 (November 5, 1859), p. 303.
+
+[72] I. M. Singer & Co.'s Gazette, vol. 5, no. 4 (March 1, 1859), p. 4,
+and a brochure, _Singer's New Family Sewing Machine_ (in Singer
+Manufacturing Company, Historic Archives).
+
+
+
+
+_Appendixes_
+
+
+
+
+I. Notes on the Development and Commercial Use of the Sewing Machine
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+While researching the history of the invention and the development of
+the sewing machine, many items of related interest concerning the
+machine's economic value came to light. The manufacture of the machines
+was in itself a boost to the economy of the emerging "industrial United
+States," as was the production of attachments for specialized stitching
+and the need for new types of needles and thread. Moreover, the
+machine's ability to speed up production permitted it to permeate the
+entire field of products manufactured by any type of stitching, from
+umbrellas to tents. Since this aspect of the story was not completed for
+this study, no attempt will be made to include any definitive statements
+on the economic importance of the sewing machine at home or abroad. This
+related information is of sufficient interest, however, to warrant
+inclusion in this first Appendix. Perhaps these notes will suggest areas
+of future research for students of American technology.
+
+
+READY-MADE CLOTHING
+
+Whether of the expensive or the inexpensive type, the sewing machine was
+much more than a popular household appliance. Its introduction had
+far-reaching effects on many different types of manufacturing
+establishments as well as on the export trade. The newly developing
+ready-made clothing industry was not only in a state of development to
+welcome the new machine but also was, in all probability, responsible
+for its immediate practical application and success.
+
+Until the early part of the second quarter of the 19th century, the
+ready-made clothing trade in the United States was confined almost
+entirely to furnishing the clothing required by sailors about to ship
+out to sea. The stores that kept these supplies were usually in the
+neighborhood of wharf areas. But other than the needs of these seamen,
+there was little market for ready-made goods. Out of necessity many of
+the families in the early years in this country had made their own
+clothing. As wealth was acquired and taste could be cultivated,
+professional seamstresses and tailors were in increasing demand, moved
+into the cities and towns, and even visited the smaller villages for as
+long as their services were needed. At the same time a related trade was
+also growing in the cities, especially in New York City, that of dealing
+in second-hand clothing. Industrious persons bought up old clothes,
+cleaned, repaired and refinished them, and sold the clothing to
+immigrants and transients who wished to avoid the high cost of new
+custom-made clothing.
+
+The repairing of this second-hand clothing led to the purchase of cheap
+cloth at auction--"half-burnt," "wet-goods," and other damaged yardage.
+When in excess of the repairing needs, this fabric was made into
+garments and sold with the second-hand items. Many visitors who passed
+through New York City were found to be potential buyers of this
+merchandise if a better class of ready-made clothes was made available.
+Manufacture began to increase. Tailors of the city began to keep an
+assortment of finished garments on hand. When visitors bought these,
+they were also very likely to buy additional garments for resale at
+home. The latter led to the establishment of the wholesale
+garment-manufacturing industry in New York about 1834-35.
+
+Most of the ready-made clothing establishments were small operations,
+not large factories. Large quantities of cloth were purchased; cutting
+was done in multiple layers with tailor's shears. Since many
+seamstresses were needed, the garments were farmed out to the girls in
+their homes. The manufacture of garments in quantity meant that the
+profit on each garment was larger than a tailor could make on a single
+custom-made item. The appeal of increased profits influenced many to
+enter the new industry and, due to the ensuing competition, the retail
+cost of each garment was lowered. Just as the new businesses were
+getting underway, the Panic of 1837 ruined most of them. But the lower
+cost and the convenience of ready-made clothing had left its mark. Not
+only was the garment-manufacturing business re-established soon after
+the Panic had subsided, but by 1841 the value of clothing sold at
+wholesale in New York was estimated at $2,500,000 and by 1850--a year
+before sewing machines were manufactured in any quantity--there were
+4,278 clothing manufacturing establishments in the United States. Beside
+New York City, Cincinnati was also one of the important ready-made
+clothing centers. In 1850 the value of its products amounted to
+$4,427,500 and in 1860 to $6,381,190. Boston was another important
+center with a ready-made clothing production of $4,567,749 in 1860.
+Philadelphia, Baltimore, Louisville, and St. Louis all had a large
+wholesale clothing trade by 1860. Here was the ready market for a
+practical sewing machine.[73]
+
+Clothing establishments grew and began to have agencies in small towns
+and the sewing work was distributed throughout the countryside. The new,
+competing sewing-machine companies were willing to deliver a machine for
+a small sum and to allow the buyer to pay a dollar or two a month until
+the full amount of the sale was paid. This was an extension of the
+hire-purchase plan (buying on credit) initiated by Clark of the Singer
+Company. The home seamstresses were eager to buy, for they were able to
+produce more piecework with a sewing machine and therefore earn more
+money. An example of the effect that the sewing machine had on the
+stitching time required was interestingly established through a series
+of experiments conducted by the Wheeler and Wilson company. Four hand
+sewers and four sewing-machine operators were used to provide the
+average figures in this comparative time study, the results of which
+were published in 1861;[74]
+
+
+NUMBER OF STITCHES PER MINUTE
+
+                                    _By Hand_  _By Machine_
+  Patent leather, fine stitching        7          175
+  Binding hats                         33          374
+  Stitching vamped shoes               10          210
+  Stitching fine linen                 23          640
+  Stitching fine silk                  30          550
+
+
+TIME FOR GARMENTS STITCHED
+
+                                _By Hand_          _By Machine_
+  Frock coats                16 hrs. 35 min.     2 hrs. 38 min.
+  Satin vests                 7 hrs. 19 min.     1 hr. 14 min.
+  Summer pants                2 hrs. 50 min.     0 hr. 38 min.
+  Calico dress                6 hrs. 37 min.     0 hr. 57 min.
+  Plain apron                 1 hr. 26 min.      0 hr. 9 min.
+  Gentlemen's shirts         14 hrs. 26 min.     1 hr. 16 min.
+
+The factory manufacturer, with the sewing work done at the factory, was
+also developing. In 1860, Oliver F. Winchester, a shirt manufacturer of
+New Haven, Connecticut, stated that his factory turned out 800 dozen
+shirts per week, using 400 sewing machines and operators to do the work
+of 2,000 hand sewers. The price for hand sewing was then $3 per week,
+which made labor costs $6000 per week. The 400 machine operators
+received $4 per week, making the labor cost $1600 per week. Allowing
+$150 as the cost of each machine, the sewing machines more than paid for
+themselves in less than 14 weeks, increased the operators pay by $1 a
+week, and lowered the retail cost of the item.[75] The greatest savings
+of time, which was as much as fifty percent, was in the manufacture of
+light goods--such items as shirts, aprons, and calico dresses. The
+Commissioner of Patents weighed the monetary effect that this or any
+invention had on the economy against the monetary gain received by the
+patentee. When he found that the patentee had not been fairly
+compensated, he had the authority to grant a seven-year extension to the
+patent.[76]
+
+The sewing machine also contributed to the popularity of certain
+fashions. Ready-made cloaks for women were a business of a few years'
+standing when the sewing machine was adopted for their manufacture in
+1853. Machine sewing reduced the cost of constructing the garment by
+about eighty percent, thereby decreasing its price and increasing its
+popularity. In New York City alone, the value of the "cloak and
+mantilla" manufacture in 1860 was $618,400.[77] Crinolines and
+hoopskirts were easier to stitch by machine than by hand, and these
+items had a spirited period of popularity due to the introduction of the
+sewing machine. Braiding, pleating, and tucking adorned many costume
+items because they could be produced by machine with ease and rapidity.
+
+In addition to using the sewing machine for the manufacture of shirts,
+collars, and related men's furnishings, the machine was also used in the
+production of men's and boy's suits and reportedly gave "a vast impetus
+to the trade."[78] The Army, however, was not quite convinced of the
+sewing machine's practical adaptation to its needs. Although a sewing
+machine was purchased for the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot as early
+as 1851, they had only six by 1860. On March 31, 1859, General Jesup of
+the Philadelphia Depot wrote to a Nechard & Company stating that the
+machine sewing had been tried but was not used for clothing, only for
+stitching caps and chevrons. In another letter, on the same day, to
+"Messers Hebrard & Co., Louisiana Steam Clothing Factory, N. Orleans,"
+Jesup states: "Machine sewing has been tried with us, and though it
+meets the requirements of a populous and civilized life, it has been
+found not to answer for the hard wear and tear and limited means of our
+frontier service. Particular attention has been paid to this subject,
+and we have abandoned the use of machines for coats, jackets and
+trousers, etc. and use them on caps and bands that are not exposed to
+much hard usage...."[79] At this period prior to the Civil War, the Army
+manufactured its own clothing. As the demands of war increased, more and
+more of the Army's clothing supplies were furnished on open
+contract--with no specifications as to stitching.[80] Machine
+stitching, in fact, is found in most of the Civil War uniforms. One of
+the problems that most probably affected the durability of the machine
+stitching in the 1850s was the sewing thread, a problem that was not
+solved until the 1860s and which is discussed later under "thread for
+the machine."
+
+[Illustration: Figure 55.--BLAKE'S LEATHER-STITCHING MACHINE patent
+model of July 6, 1858; the inventor claimed the arrangement of the
+mechanism used and an auxiliary arm capable of entering the shoe, which
+enabled the outer sole to be stitched both to the inner sole and to the
+upper part of the shoe. (Smithsonian photo 50361.)]
+
+
+SHOE MANUFACTURE
+
+Another industry that was aided by the new invention was that of shoe
+manufacture. Although the earliest sewing-machine patents in the United
+States reflect the inventors' efforts to solve the difficult task of
+leather stitching, and, although machines were used to a limited extent
+in stitching some parts of the shoe in the early and mid-1850s, it was
+not until 1858 that a machine was invented that could stitch the sole to
+the inner sole and to the upper part of the shoe. This was the invention
+of Lyman R. Blake and was patented by him on July 8, 1858; the patent
+model is shown in figure 55. Blake formed a chainstitch by using a
+hooked needle, which descended from above, to draw a thread through the
+supporting arm. Serving as the machine's bedplate, the arm was shaped to
+accommodate the stitching of all the parts of the shoe.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 56.--HARRIS' patent thread cutter, 1872.
+(Smithsonian photo P-6397.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 57.--WEST'S patent thread cutter, 1874.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63100.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 58.--KARR'S patent needle threader, 1871.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63101.)]
+
+The increased number of shoes required by the Army during the Civil War
+spurred the use of the sewing machine in their manufacture. The first
+"machine sewed bootees" were purchased by the Army in 1861. Inventors
+continued their efforts; the most prominent of these was Gordon McKay,
+who worked on an improvement of the Blake machine with Robert Mathies in
+1862 and then with Blake in 1864. Reportedly, the Government at first
+preferred the machine-stitched shoes as they lasted eight times longer
+than those stitched by hand; during the war the Army purchased 473,000
+pairs, but in 1871 the Quartermaster General wrote:
+
+     No complaints regarding the quality of these shoes were received up
+     to February 1867 when a Board of Survey, which convened at Hart's
+     Island, New York Harbor reported upon the inferior quality of
+     certain machine sewed bootees of the McKay patent, issued to the
+     enlisted men at that post. The acting Quartermaster General, Col.
+     D. H. Rucker, April 10, 1867, addressed a letter to all the
+     officers in charge of depots, with instructions not to issue any
+     more of the shoes in question, but to report to this office the
+     quantity remaining in store. From these reports it appears that
+     there were in store at that time 362,012 pairs M. S. Bootees, all
+     of which were ordered to be, and have since been sold at public
+     auction.[81]
+
+The exact complaint against the shoes was not recorded. Possibly the
+entire shoe was stitched by machine. It was found that although
+machine-stitched shoes were more durable in some respects and the upper
+parts of most shoes continued to be machine stitched, pegged soles for
+the more durable varieties remained the fashion for a decade or more, as
+did custom hand-stitched shoes for those who could afford them.
+
+
+OTHER USES
+
+The use of sewing machines in all types of manufacturing that required
+stitching of any type continued to grow each year. While the principal
+purpose for which they were utilized continued to be the manufacture of
+clothing items, by the year 1900 they were also used for awnings, tents,
+and sails; cloth bags; bookbinding and related book manufacture; flags
+and banners; pocketbooks, trunks, and valises; saddlery and harnesses;
+mattresses; umbrellas; linen and rubber belting and hose; to the
+aggregate sum of nearly a billion dollars--$979,988,413.[82]
+
+
+SEWING-MACHINE ATTACHMENTS
+
+The growing popularity of the sewing machine offered still another boost
+to the economy--the development of many minor, related manufacturing
+industries. The repetitive need for machine needles, the development of
+various types of attachments to simplify the many sewing tasks, and the
+ever-increasing need for more and better sewing thread--the sewing
+machine consumed from two to five times as much thread as stitching by
+hand--created new manufacturing establishments and new jobs.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 59.--SHANK'S patent bobbin winder, 1870.
+(Smithsonian photo P-6398.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 60.--SWEET'S patent binder, 1853. (Smithsonian
+photo P-6396.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 61.--SPOUL'S patent braid guide, 1871.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63102.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 62.--ROSE'S patent embroiderer, 1881. (Smithsonian
+photo P-6399.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 63.--HARRIS' patent buttonhole attachment, 1882.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63103.)]
+
+The method of manufacturing machine needles did not differ appreciably
+from the method used in making the common sewing needle, but the latter
+had never become an important permanent industry in the United States.
+Since the manufacture of practical sewing machines was essentially an
+American development and the eye-pointed needle a vital component of the
+machine, it followed that the manufacture of needles would also develop
+here. Although such a manufacture was established in 1852,[83] foreign
+imports still supplied much of the need in the 1870s. As more highly
+specialized stitching machines were developed, an ever-increasing
+variety of needles was required, and the industry grew.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 64.--THE TREADLE OF THE MACHINE was also used to
+help create music. George D. Garvie and George Wood received patent
+267,874, Nov. 21, 1882, for "a cover for a sewing machine provided with
+a musical instrument and means for transmitting motion from the shaft of
+the sewing machine to the operating parts of the musical instrument."
+Although no patent model was submitted by the inventors, the "Musical
+Sewing Machine Cover" was offered for sale as early as October 1882, as
+shown by this advertisement that appeared in _The Sewing Machine News_
+that month. (Smithsonian photo 57983.)]
+
+Soon after the sewing machine was commercially successful, special
+attachments for it were invented and manufactured. These ranged from the
+simplest devices for cutting thread to complicated ones for making
+buttonholes (see figs. 56 through 66).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 65.--THIS FANNING ATTACHMENT was commercially
+available from James Morrison & Co. in the early 1870s; it sold for one
+dollar as stated in the advertising brochure from which this engraving
+was copied. Other inventors also patented similar implements.
+(Smithsonian photo 45513.)]
+
+The first patent for an attachment was issued in 1853 to Harry Sweet for
+a binder, used to stitch a special binding edge to the fabric. Other
+related attachments followed; among these were the hemmer which was
+similar to the binder, but turned the edge of the same piece of fabric
+to itself as the stitching was performed. Guides for stitching braid in
+any pattern, as directed by the movement of the goods below, were also
+developed; this was followed by the embroiderer, an elaborate form of
+braider. The first machine to stitch buttonholes was patented in 1854
+and the first buttonhole attachment in 1856, but the latter was not
+practical until improvements were made in the late 1860s. Special
+devices for refilling the bobbins were invented and patented as early as
+1862, and the popularity of tucked and ruffled garments inspired
+inventors to provide sewing-machine attachments for these purposes also.
+To keep the seamstress cool, C. D. Stewart patented an attachment for
+fanning the operator by an action derived from the treadle (fig. 65).
+While electric sewing machines did not become common until the 20th
+century, several 19th-century inventors considered the possibility of
+attaching a type of motor to the machine. One was the 1871 patent of
+Solomon Jones, who added an "electro motor" to an 1865 Bartlett machine
+(fig. 66). The attachments that were developed during the latter part of
+the 19th century numbered in the thousands; many of these were
+superfluous. Most of the basic ones in use today were developed by the
+1880s and remain almost unchanged. Even the recently popular home zigzag
+machine, an outgrowth of the buttonhole machine, was in commercial use
+by the 1870s.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 66.--JONES "ELECTRO MOTOR" PATENT MODEL of 1871 on
+a Bartlett sewing machine. (Smithsonian photo P-63104.)]
+
+Sewing-machine improvements have been made from time to time. Like other
+mechanical items the machine has become increasingly automatic, but the
+basic principles remain the same. One of the more recent developments,
+patented[84] in 1933 by Valentine Naftali et al., is for a manufacturing
+machine that imitates hand stitching. This machine uses a two-pointed
+"floating needle" that is passed completely through the fabric--the very
+idea that was attempted over one hundred years ago. The machine is
+currently used by commercial manufacturers to produce decorative
+edge-stitching that very closely resembles hand stitching.
+
+
+THREAD FOR THE MACHINE
+
+[Illustration: Figure 67.--SIX-CORD cabled thread.]
+
+The need for a good thread durable enough to withstand the action of
+machine stitching first created a problem and ultimately another new
+industry in this country. When the sewing machine was first developed
+the inventors necessarily had to use the sewing thread that was
+available. But, although the contemporary thread was quite suitable for
+hand sewing, it did not lend itself to the requirements of the machine.
+Cotton thread, then more commonly a three-ply variety, had a glazed
+finish and was wiry. Silk thread frequently broke owing to abrasion at
+the needle eye. For the most part linen thread was too coarse, or the
+fine variety was too expensive. All of the thread had imperfections that
+went unnoticed in the hands of a seamstress, but caused havoc in a
+machine. Quality silk thread that would withstand the rigors of machine
+stitching could be produced, but it was quite expensive also. A new type
+of inexpensive thread was needed; the obvious answer lay in improving
+the cotton thread.[85]
+
+In addition to the popular three-ply variety, cotton thread was also
+made by twisting together either two single yarns or more than three
+yarns. Increasing the number of yarns produced a more cylindrical
+thread. The earliest record of a six-ply cotton thread was about
+1840.[86] And in 1850 C. E. Bennett of Portsmouth, New Hampshire,
+received a gold medal for superior six-cord, or six-ply, spool cotton at
+the Fair of the American Institute. But the thread was still wiry and
+far from satisfactory. By the mid-1860s the demonstrated need for thread
+manufacturers in America brought George A. Clark and William Clark,
+third generation cotton-thread manufacturers of Paisley, Scotland, to
+Newark, New Jersey, where they built a large mill. George Clark decided
+that a thread having both a softer finish and a different construction
+was needed. He produced a six-cord cabled thread, made up of three
+two-ply yarns (see fig. 67). The thread was called "Clark's 'Our New
+Thread,'" which was later shortened to O.N.T. The basic machine-thread
+problem was solved. When other manufacturers used the six-cord cabled
+construction they referred to their thread as "Best Six-Cord"[87] or
+"Superior Six-Cord"[88] to distinguish it from the earlier variety made
+up of six single yarns in a simple twist. Another new side industry of
+the sewing machine was successfully established.
+
+
+MANUFACTURE AND EXPORT, TO 1900
+
+Sewing machines were a commodity in themselves, both at home and abroad.
+In 1850, there were no establishments exclusively devoted to the
+manufacture of sewing machines, the few constructed were made in small
+machine shops. The industry, however, experienced a very rapid growth
+during the next ten years. By 1860 there were 74 factories in 12
+States,[89] mainly in the East and Midwest,[90] producing over 111,000
+sewing machines a year. In addition, there were 14 factories that
+produced sewing-machine cases and attachments. The yearly value of these
+products was approximately four and a half million dollars, of which the
+amount exported in 1861 was $61,000. Although the number of
+sewing-machine factories dropped from 74 in 1860 to 69 by 1870, the
+value of the machines produced increased to almost sixteen million
+dollars.
+
+The number of sewing-machine companies fluctuated greatly from year to
+year as many attempted to enter this new field of manufacture. Some were
+not able to make a commercial success of their products. The Civil War
+did not seem to be an important factor in the number of companies in
+business in the North. Although one manufacturer ceased operations in
+Richmond, Virginia, and a Vermont firm converted to arms manufacture,
+several companies began operations during the war years. Of the 69 firms
+in business in 1870, only part had been in business since 1860 or
+before; some were quite new as a result of the expiration of the Howe
+patent renewal in 1867.
+
+Probably due to the termination of many of the major patents, there were
+124 factories in 1880, but the yearly product value remained at sixteen
+million dollars. The 1890 census reports only 66 factories with a yearly
+production of a little less than the earlier decade. But by 1900, the
+yearly production of a like number of factories had reached a value of
+over twenty-one million, of which four and a half million dollars worth
+were exported annually. The total value of American sewing machines
+exported from 1860 to 1900 was approximately ninety million dollars. The
+manufacture of sewing machines made a significant contribution to the
+economic development of 19th-century America.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[73] _Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures, Clothing_ (United States Census
+Office, published Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865).
+
+[74] _Eighty Years of Progress of the United States_ (New York, 1861),
+vol. 2, pp. 413-429.
+
+[75] GEORGE GIFFORD, "Argument of [George] Gifford in Favor of the Howe
+Application for Extension of Patent" (New York: United States Patent
+Office, 1860).
+
+[76] Op. cit. (footnote 34).
+
+[77] _Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures_ (United States Census Office,
+published Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865), "Women's
+Ready-Made Clothing," p. 83.
+
+[78] Ibid., p. 64.
+
+[79] National Archives, Record Group 92, Office of the Quartermaster
+General, Clothing Book, Letters Sent, volume 17.
+
+[80] The author wishes to acknowledge the valuable help of Mr. Donald
+Kloster of the Smithsonian Institution's Division of Military History
+for the preceding four references and related information.
+
+[81] Letter of Nov. 4, 1871, to Col. Theo. A. Dodge, USA (Ret.), Boston,
+from Quartermaster General M. C. Meigs, in the National Archives, Record
+Group 92, Quartermaster General's Office, Letters Sent, Clothing
+Supplies, 1871.
+
+[82] _Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900_, vol. 10,
+_Manufactures_, Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United
+States Census Office, Washington, D.C., 1902).
+
+[83] CHARLES M. KARCH, "Needles: Historical and Descriptive," in
+_Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900_, vol. 10, _Manufactures_,
+Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United States Census
+Office: Washington, D.C., 1902), pp. 429-432.
+
+[84] U.S. patent 1,931,447, issued to Valentine Naftali, Henry Naftali,
+and Rudolph Naftali, Oct. 17, 1933. The Naftali machines are
+manufactured by the American Machine and Foundry Company and are called
+AMF Stitching Machines.
+
+[85] See Appendix V, p. 135, "A Brief History of Cotton Thread."
+
+[86] _The Story of Cotton Thread_ (New York, The Spool Cotton Company,
+1933).
+
+[87] J. and P. Coats spool cotton.
+
+[88] Willimantic spool cotton.
+
+[89] New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut,
+New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Kentucky.
+_Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures_ (United States Census Office,
+published by Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865.)
+
+[90] Sewing-machine manufacture in the South was just beginning to
+blossom when it was curtailed by the outbreak of the Civil War. See
+Lester sewing machine, figure 109 on page 102.
+
+
+
+
+II. American Sewing-Machine Companies of the 19th Century
+
+
+During the latter half of the 19th century, there was a total of two
+hundred or more sewing-machine companies in the United States. Although
+a great many manufacturing-type machines were sold, this business was
+carried on by relatively few companies and most were primarily concerned
+with the family-type machines. A representative number of these family
+machines together with information concerning both the company and
+serial-number dating are found in figures 68 through 132. A great many
+of the companies were licensed by the "Combination," but, in addition,
+some companies were constructing machines that did not infringe the
+patents, other companies infringed the patents but managed to avoid
+legal action, and there were numerous companies that mushroomed into
+existence after the "Combination" was dissolved in 1877. Most of the
+latter were very short-lived. It is difficult to establish the exact
+dates of some of these companies as many of their records were
+incomplete or have since disappeared; even a great many of the
+"Combination" records were lost by fire. A summary of the existing
+records kept by the "Combination" is given in figure 37.
+
+As will be noted in the subsequent listing, only a small percentage of
+the companies were in business for a period longer than ten years; of
+those that continued longer, all but a few had disappeared by 1910.
+Today there are about sixty United States sewing-machine companies. Most
+of them manufacture highly specialized sewing machines used for specific
+types of commercial work; only a few produce family or home-style
+machines. Foreign competition has increased, and the high cost of
+skilled labor in this country has made competition in this
+consumer-product field increasingly difficult. The countless varieties
+of American family sewing machines, so evident in the 19th century, have
+passed away.
+
+                                                 First Made    Discontinued
+                       Manufacturer              or Earliest   or Last
+ Sewing Machine        or Company                Record        Record
+
+  Aetna                 Aetna Sewing Machine      ca. 1867      ca. 1877
+                        Co., Lowell, Mass.
+
+  Aiken and             ----, Ithaca, N.Y.        ca. 1855      before 1880
+   Felthousen
+
+  Alsop                 ----                      --            ca. 1880
+
+  American              American Sewing           1854          --
+                         Machine Co.
+
+  American Buttonhole,  American Buttonhole,      1869          ca. 1874
+   Overseaming and       Overseaming and
+   Sewing Machine        Sewing Machine Co.,
+   (fig. 68)             Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+    Later New           American Sewing           ca. 1874      ca. 1886
+     American           Machine Co.,
+     (fig. 69)          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  American Magnetic     American Magnetic         1853          1854
+   (fig. 70)             Sewing Machine
+                         Company, Ithaca, N.Y.
+
+  Atlantic (fig. 71)    ----                      1869          ca. 1870
+
+  Atwater (fig. 87)     ----                      1857          ca. 1860
+
+  Avery                 Avery Sewing Machine      1852          185-
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Avery                 Avery Manufacturing       1875          1886-1900
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  A. Bartholf Manfr.    A. Bartholf,              ca. 1850      185-
+    Blodgett & Lerow      manufacturer,
+    patent 1849           New York, N.Y.
+    (_see also_)
+
+  A. Bartholf Manfr.    A. Bartholf,              1853          ca. 1856
+    Howe's patent,        manufacturer,
+    1846 (fig. 72)        New York, N.Y.
+
+  Bartholf              A. Bartholf,              1857          1859
+                          manufacturer
+                        Bartholf Sewing           1859          ca. 1865
+                          Machine Co.
+
+  Bartlett (fig. 73)    Goodspeed & Wyman         1866          ca. 1870
+                        Bartlett Sewing Machine   ca. 1870      1872
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Baker                 ----                      --            before 1880
+
+  Bartram & Fanton      Bartram & Fanton Mfg.     1867          1874
+    (fig. 74)             Co., Danbury, Conn.
+
+  Bay State             ----                      --            before 1880
+
+  Beckwith (fig. 75)    Barlow & Son, New York,   1871          1872
+                          N.Y.
+                        Beckwith Sewing Machine   1872          ca. 1876
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Blees                 Blees Sewing Machine      1870          1873
+                          Co.
+
+  Blodgett & Lerow      O. Phelps, Boston,        1849          1849
+    (fig. 21)             Mass.
+                        Goddard, Rice & Co.,      1849          1850
+                          Worcester, Mass.
+    (fig. 20)           A. Bartholf,              1849          185-
+                          manufacturer, New
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Bond                  ----                      --            before 1880
+
+  Boston                J. F. Paul & Co.,         1880          --
+                          Boston, Mass.
+    Later New Boston    Boston Sewing Machine     --            after 1886
+                          Co., Boston, Mass.
+
+  Boudoir (fig. 76)     Daniel Harris,            1857          ca. 1870
+                          inventor and patentee
+                          Manufacturer--several
+
+  Bradford & Barber     Bradford & Barber,        1860          1861
+                          manufacturers,
+                          Boston, Mass.
+
+  Brattleboro           Samuel Barker and         ca. 1858      1861
+                          Thomas White,
+                          Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  Buckeye               Wilson [W.G.] Sewing      ca. 1867      ca. 1876
+    Later New Buckeye     Machine Company,
+    (fig. 77)             Cleveland, Ohio
+    (_see_ Wilson)
+
+  Buell, "E. T.         A. B. Buell,              ca. 1860      --
+    Lathbury's Patent"    Westmoreland, New York
+
+  Burnet & Broderick    Burnet, Broderick and     1859          ca. 1860
+                          Co.
+
+  Centennial            Centennial Sewing         1873          1876
+    (fig. 78)             Machine Co. (_see_
+                          McLean and Hooper),
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Chamberlain           Woolridge, Keene and      1853          ca. 1854
+                          Moore, Lynn, Mass.
+
+  Chicago Singer        Scates, Tryber &          1879          1882
+                          Sweetland Mfg. Co.,
+                          Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Later Chicago         Chicago Sewing Machine    1882          ca. 1885
+                           Co.
+
+  Chicopee
+    (_see_ Shaw & Clark)
+
+  Clark (fig. 42)       D. W. Clark,              ca. 1858      after 1860
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Clark's Revolving     Lamson, Goodnow & Yale,   1859          1861
+    Looper [double        Windsor, Vt.
+    thread] (fig. 79)
+      (_see_ Windsor)
+
+  Clinton               Clinton Brothers,         ca. 1861      ca. 1865
+                          Ithaca, N.Y.
+
+  Companion             Thurston Mfg. Co.,        1882          --
+                          Marlboro, N.H.
+
+  Crown                 Florence Sewing Machine   1879          after 1886
+      (_see_ Florence)    Co., Florence, Mass.
+
+  Dauntless (later      Dauntless Mfg. Co.,       1877          after 1882
+    New Dauntless)        Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Davis                 J.A. Davis, New York,     ca. 1860      --
+                          N.Y.
+      Davis Vertical    Davis Sewing Machine      1869          after 1886
+        Feed              Co., Watertown, N.Y.
+
+      Davis Vertical    Davis Sewing Machine      after 1886    1924
+        Feed and          Co., Dayton, Ohio
+        Rotary Shuttle
+
+  Decker (_also_ The    Decker Mfg. Co.,          --            before 1881
+    Princess)             Detroit, Mich.
+
+  Demorest              Demorest Mfg. Co          1882          1908
+                          (formerly N.Y.
+                          Sewing Machine Co.)
+
+  Diamond (formerly     Sigwalt Sewing Machine    1880          --
+    Sigwalt)              Co., Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Domestic              Wm. A. Mack & Co. and     1864          1869
+                          N. S. Perkins,
+                          Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Domestic              Domestic Sewing Machine   1869          [A]
+                          Co., Norwalk, Ohio,
+                          acquired by White
+                          Sewing Machine Co. in
+                          1924 and maintained
+                          as a subsidiary at
+                          Cleveland, Ohio.
+
+  Dorcas                John P. Bowker, Boston,   1853          185-
+                          Mass.
+
+  Du Laney (fig. 80)
+      Also called
+      Little Monitor
+      (_see_)
+
+  Durgin                Charles A. Durgin, New    1853          after 1855
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Eldredge              Eldredge Sewing Machine   1869          1890
+                          Co., Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Elliptic
+    Sloat's Elliptic    George B. Sloat and Co.,  ca. 1858      ca. 1860
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+    Sloat's Elliptic    Union Sewing Machine      1860          1861
+                          Co., Richmond, Va.
+
+    Elliptic            Wheeler & Wilson Mfg.     1861          ca. 1867
+                          Co.
+                        Elliptic Sewing           1867          before 1880
+                          Machine Co., N.Y.,
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Empire (fig. 86)      Empire Sewing Machine     ca. 1860      1869
+      Later               Co., Boston, Mass.
+      Remington-Empire
+
+  Empress               Manufactured on order     1877          --
+                          through Jerome B.
+                          Secor, Bridgeport,
+                          Conn.
+
+  Estey                 Estey Sewing Machine      ca. 1880      1882
+                          Co.
+      Estey,            Brattleboro Sewing        1883          after 1886
+      Fuller-Model        Machine Co.,
+                          Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  Eureka (fig. 81)      Eureka Shuttle Sewing     1859          --
+                          New York, N.Y.
+
+  Excelsior             Excelsior Sewing Machine  1854          1854
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Fairy (figs. 51, 52)  Madame Demorest, New      1863          ca. 1865
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Finkle, M. (fig. 82)  M. Finkle, Boston,        1856          ca. 1859
+                          Mass.
+      Finkle & Lyon     Finkle & Lyon Sewing      ca. 1859      1867
+                          Machine Co., Boston,
+                          Mass.
+      Later Victor
+
+  First and Frost       First and Frost, New      ca. 1859      ca. 1861
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Florence (fig. 83)    Florence Sewing Machine   ca. 1860      after 1878
+      Later Crown         Co., Florence, Mass.
+
+  Folsom                Folsom, J. G.,            1865          ca. 1871
+      (_see_ Globe and    Winchendon, Mass.
+      New England)
+
+  Fosket and Savage     Fosket and Savage,        1858          1859
+                          Meriden, Conn.
+
+  Foxboro               Foxboro Rotary Shuttle    ca. 1882      --
+                          Co., Foxboro, Mass.
+
+  Franklin              Franklin Sewing Machine   1871          1871
+                          Co., Mason
+                          Village, N.H.
+
+  Free                  Free Sewing Machine       1898          [A]
+                          Co., Chicago and
+                          Rockford, Ill.
+
+  Gardner               C. R. Gardner,            1856          --
+                          Detroit, Mich.
+
+  Globe (figs. 84, 85)  J. G. Folsom,             1865          1869
+                          Winchendon, Mass.
+
+  Gold Medal            Gold Medal Sewing         1863          1876
+    (chainstitch)         Machine Co., Orange,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Gold Medal            ----                      1863          ca. 1865
+    (running stitch)
+
+  Gold Hibbard          Hibbard, B. S., & Co.     1875          --
+
+  Goodbody (sewing      Goodbody Sewing Machine   1880          ca. 1890
+    shears)               Co., Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Goodes                Rex & Bockius,            ca. 1876      before 1881
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Goodrich              H. B. Goodrich, Chicago,  ca. 1880      ca. 1895
+                          Ill.
+
+  Grant Brothers        Grant Bros. & Co.,        1867          ca. 1870
+    (fig. 90)             Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Greenman and True     Greenman and True Mfg.    1859          1860
+    (fig. 91)             Co. Norwich, Conn.
+                        Morse and True            1860          1861
+
+  Green Mountain        ----                      ca. 1860      --
+
+  Griswold Variety      L. Griswold, New York,    ca. 1886      ca. 1890
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Grover and Baker      Grover and Baker Sewing   1851          1875
+    (figs. 34-36, 92)     Machine Co., Boston,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Hancock               ----                      1868          before 1881
+    (figs. 93, 94)
+
+  Heberling Running     John Heberling            1878          ca. 1885
+    Stitch
+
+  Herron's Patent       ----                      1857          --
+    (fig. 95)
+
+  Higby                 Higby Sewing Machine      ca. 1882      after 1886
+      Later Acme          Co., Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  Home                  Johnson, Clark & Co.,     1869          after 1876
+    Home Shuttle          Orange, Mass.
+
+  Homestead             ----                      ca. 1881      --
+
+  Household             Providence Tool Co.,      1880          ca. 1884
+                          Providence, R.I.
+                        Household Sewing          ca. 1885      1906
+                          Machine Co.
+
+  Howe (figs. 96, 97)   Howe Sewing Machine Co.,  1853          1873
+                          New York, N.Y.
+                          (company of A. B. Howe
+                          sold to Howe Machine
+                          Co.)
+
+  Howe (fig. 98)        Howe Machine Co.,         1867          1886
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Howe's Improved       Nichols and Bliss,        1852          1853
+    Patent (fig. 107)     Boston, Mass.
+                        J. B. Nichols & Co.       1853          1854
+      which became      Nichols, Leavitt & Co.,   1854          1856
+      Leavitt             Boston, Mass.
+
+  N. Hunt, which        N. Hunt & Co., Boston,    1853          1854
+    became Hunt and       Mass.
+    Webster (figs. 99,  Hunt and Webster,         1854          1857
+    100)                  Boston, Mass.
+      Later Ladd and
+      Webster (_see_)
+
+  Improved Common       ----                      ca. 1870      --
+    Sense (fig. 102)
+
+  Independent           Independent Sewing        1873          --
+    Noiseless             Machine Co.,
+                          Binghamton, N.Y.
+
+  Jennie June           June Mfg. Co., Chicago,   1881          1890
+                          Ill. Later
+                          Belvidere, Ill.
+
+  Jewel                 Jewel Mfg. Co., Toledo,   1884          after 1886
+                          Ohio
+
+  Johnson (fig. 103)    Emery, Houghton & Co.,    1856          after 1865
+                          Boston, Mass.
+
+  Keystone              Keystone Sewing Machine   before 1872   ca. 1874
+                          Co.
+
+  Ladd & Webster        Ladd, Webster & Co.,      1858          ca. 1866
+    (fig. 101)            Boston, Mass.
+
+  Ladies Companion      ----                      1858          ca. 1858
+    (fig. 115)
+    (_see_ Pratt's Patent)
+
+  "Lady" (fig. 104)     ----                      1859          --
+
+  Landfear's Patent     Parkers, Snow, Brooks     1857          --
+    (fig. 105)            & Co., West Meriden,
+                          Conn.
+
+  Langdon               L.W. Langdon              1856          --
+
+  Lathrop (fig. 106)    Lathrop Combination       1873          --
+                          Sewing Machine Co.
+
+  Leader                Leader Sewing Machine     1882          --
+                          Co., Springfield,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Leavitt (fig. 108)    Nichols, Leavitt & Co.,   1855          1857
+                          Boston, Mass.
+                        Leavitt & Co.             1857          ca. 1865
+                        Leavitt Sewing Machine    ca. 1865      1870
+                          Co.
+
+  Leslie Revolving      Leslie Sewing Machine     1881          --
+    Shuttle               Co., Cleveland, Ohio
+
+  Lester (fig. 109)     J.H. Lester, Brooklyn,    ca. 1858      early 1860
+                          N.Y.
+                        Lester Mfg. Co.,          early 1860    late 1860
+                          Richmond, Va.
+                        Union Sewing Machine      late 1860     1861
+                          Co., Richmond, Va.
+
+  Little Gem            ----                      --            ca. 1870
+
+  Little Giant          Domestic Sewing Machine   ca. 1882      --
+                          Co., Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Little Monitor (not   G.L. Du Laney, Brooklyn,  ca. 1866      after 1875
+    associated with       N.Y.
+    Monitor)
+
+  Love                  Love Mfg. Co.,            1885          after 1886
+                          Pittsburgh, Pa.
+
+  Lyon                  Lyon Sewing Machine Co.   1879          ca. 1880
+
+  Macauley              Thos. A. Macauley Mfg.,   before 1879   --
+                          New York, N.Y.
+
+  Manhattan             Manhattan Sewing Machine  ca. 1868      ca. 1880
+                          Co.
+
+  McKay                 McKay Sewing Machine      1870          1876
+                         Assoc.
+
+  McLean and Hooper     B. W. Lacy & Co.,         ca. 1869      ca. 1873
+                         Philadelphia, Pa.
+                          (_see_ Centennial)
+
+  Meyers                J. M. Meyers              1859          --
+
+  Miller's Patent       ----                      1853          --
+
+  Monitor (fig. 88)     Shaw & Clark Sewing       1860          1864
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Biddeford, Me.
+
+  Moore                 Moore Sewing Machine      ca. 1860      --
+                          Co.
+
+  Morey & Johnson       Safford & Williams        1849          ca. 1851
+    (fig. 18)             Makers, Boston,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Morrison              Morrison, Wilkinson &     1881          --
+                          Co., Hartford, Conn.
+
+  Mower                 ----                      ca. 1863      --
+
+  National              Johnson, Clark & Co.,     1874          --
+                          Orange, Mass.
+
+  National (also sold   National Sewing Machine   1890          1953
+  under distributor's     Co. (consolidation of
+  name)                   the June and Eldredge
+                          Companies), Belvidere,
+                          Ill.
+
+  Ne Plus Ultra         O. L. Reynolds            1857          --
+    (fig. 110)            Manufacturing Co.,
+                          Dover, N.H.
+
+  Nettleton & Raymond   Nettleton & Raymond,      ca. 1857      --
+  (fig. 111)              Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  New England           Charles Raymond (also     ca. 1859      1866
+    (figs. 112, 113)      by: Grout & White,      1862          1863
+                          Orange, Mass.; William  1863          --
+                          Grout, Winchendon,      1865          1865
+                          Mass.; and J. G. Folsom,
+                          Winchendon, Mass.)
+
+  Newell                ----                      1881          --
+
+  New Fairbanks         J. H. Drew & Co.          1878          1880
+                          Thomas M. Cochrane      1880          --
+                          Co., Belleville, Ill.
+
+  New Home              New Home Sewing Machine   1876          [A]
+                          Co., Orange, Mass. (in
+                          1928 became affiliated
+                          with Free Sewing
+                          Machine Co.)
+
+  New York              ----, New York, N.Y.      ca. 1855      ca. 1855
+
+  New York Shuttle      N.Y. Sewing Machine Co.,  before 1880   1882
+                          New York, N.Y. (later
+                          Demorest Mfg. Co.)
+
+  Noble                 Noble Sewing Machine      before 1881   after 1886
+                          Co., Erie, Pa.
+
+  Novelty               C. A. French, Boston,     1869          --
+                          Mass.
+
+  Old Dominion          Old Dominion Sewing       ca. 1858      1860
+                          Machine Co., Richmond,
+                          Va.
+
+  Pardox                ----                      ca. 1865      --
+
+  Parham                Parham Sewing Machine     ca. 1869      ca. 1871
+                          Co., Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Parker                Charles Parker Co.,       before 1860   after 1865
+                          Meriden, Conn.
+                            Later Parker Sewing
+                            Machine Co.
+
+  Pearl                 ---- Bennett              ca. 1859      --
+
+  Philadelphia          Philadelphia Sewing       ca. 1872      ca. 1881
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Post Combination      Post Combination Sewing   before 1885   after 1886
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Washington, D.C.
+
+  Pratt's Patent        ----                      1857          ca. 1858
+  (fig. 114)  Later
+  Ladies Companion
+
+  Queen                 Dauntless Mfg Co.,        ca. 1881      --
+                          Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Quaker City           Quaker City Sewing        1859          ca. 1861
+  (fig. 116)              Machine Co.,
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Remington Empire      Remington Empire Sewing   1870          1872
+  Later Remington         Machine Co.
+                        E. Remington & Sons,      1873          ca. 1894
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Robertson (dolphin    T. W. Robertson, New      1855          after 1860
+    & cherub) (figs.      York, N.Y.
+    40, 41)
+
+  Robinson              F. R. Robinson, Boston,   1853          ca. 1855
+                          Mass.
+
+  Robinson's patent     Howard & Davis, Boston,   1855          --
+    sewing machine        Mass.
+    with Roper's
+    improvement (fig. 117)
+      Later Robinson    same                      1856          before 1860
+      and Roper
+      (fig. 118)
+
+  Royal St. John        Royal Sewing Machine      ca. 1883      1898
+  (formerly St. John)     Co., Springfield, Ohio
+                          (later Free Co.)
+
+  Ruddick               ----                      ca. 1860      --
+
+  Secor                 Secor Machine Co.,        1870          1876
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Sewing Shears         Nettleton & Raymond,      ca. 1859      --
+  (Hendrick's patent)     Bristol, Conn.
+  (fig. 43)
+
+  Sewing Shears         American Hand Sewing      ca. 1884      ca. 1900
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Shaw & Clark          Shaw & Clark Co.,         ca. 1857      1866
+    Running Stitch        Biddeford, Me.
+    Machine (fig. 53)
+
+    Chainstitch
+    Machine (fig. 119)
+
+    Chainstitch         Shaw & Clark Co.,         1867          1868
+    Machine (fig. 120)    Chicopee Falls, Mass.
+                        Chicopee Sewing Machine   1868          ca. 1869
+                          Co., Chicopee Falls,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Sigwalt               Sigwalt Sewing Machine    ca. 1879      --
+                           Co., Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Singer (figs. 28,     I. M. Singer & Co.        1851          [A]
+    29, 30, 32, 33,       (later Singer Mfg. Co.).
+    121, 122)             Moved  from Boston to
+                          New York  to
+                          Elizabethport, N.J.
+                          (factory).
+
+  Springfield           Springfield Sewing        1880          --
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Springfield, Mass.
+
+  Standard              ----                      1870          --
+    (chainstitch)
+    (fig. 123)
+      Standard          Standard Shuttle Sewing   1874          ca. 1881
+      (shuttle)           Machine Co., New York,
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Standard              Standard Sewing Machine   1884          ca. 1930
+                          Co., Cleveland, Ohio
+                          (acquired by Singer Co.)
+
+  Stewart               Henry Stewart & Co.,      1874          1880
+                          N.Y., N.Y.
+      Later New         Stewart Mfg Co.           1880          ca. 1883
+      Stewart
+
+  St. John (later       St. John Sewing Machine   1870          ca. 1883
+    Royal St. John)       Co., Springfield, O.
+
+  Taggart & Farr        Taggart & Farr,           1858          --
+    (figs. 124, 125)      Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Thompson              C. F. Thompson Co.        1871          1871
+                        T. C. Thompson, Ithaca,   ca. 1854      --
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Union                 Johnson, Clark & Co.,     1876          --
+                          Orange, Mass.
+
+  Victor                Finkle & Lyon Mfg. Co.    1867          ca. 1872
+                        Victor Sewing Machine     ca. 1872      ca. 1890
+                          Co., Middletown, Conn.
+
+  Wardwell              Wardwell Mfg. Co., St.    ca. 1876      1890
+                          Louis, Mo.
+
+  Watson (fig. 126)     Jones & Lee               1850          ca. 1853
+                        Watson & Wooster,         ca. 1853      ca. 1860
+                          Bristol, Conn.
+
+  Waterbury             Waterbury Co.,            1853          ca. 1860
+                          Waterbury, Conn.
+
+  Weed                  T. E. Weed & Co. (became  1854          --
+                          Whitney & Lyons)
+
+  Weed                  Weed Sewing Machine Co.   1865          --
+                          (reorganized from
+                          Whitney & Lyons),
+                          Hartford, Conn.
+
+    Family Favorite                               1867          --
+    Manu. Favorite                                1868          --
+    General Favorite                              1872          --
+    Hartford                                      1881          ca. 1900
+
+  Wesson                Farmer & Gardner          1879          1880
+                          Manufacturing Co.
+                        D. B. Wesson Sewing       1880          --
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Springfield, Mass.
+
+  West & Willson        West & Willson Co.,       1858          --
+    (fig. 127)             Elyria, Ohio
+
+  A. B. Wilson          E. E. Lee & Co., New      1851          1852
+    (fig. 23)             York, N.Y.
+
+  A. B. Wilson's        Wheeler, Wilson, Co.,     late 1851     1856
+    patent seaming        Watertown, N.Y.
+    lathe
+      Later Wheeler     Wheeler & Wilson Mfg.     1856          1905
+      and Wilson          Co., Bridgeport, Conn.
+      (fig. 26, 27,     Singer Co., Bridgeport,   1905          1907
+      128, 129)            Conn.
+
+  White (fig. 130)      White Sewing Machine      1876          [A]
+                          Co., Cleveland, Ohio
+
+  Whitehill             Whitehill Mfg. Co.,       ca. 1875      after 1886
+                         Milwaukee, Wis.
+
+  Whitney               Whitney Sewing Machine    ca. 1872      ca. 1880
+                         Co., Paterson, N.J.
+
+  Whitney & Lyons       Whitney & Lyons (a        ca. 1859      ca. 1865
+                          machine based on the
+                          1854 patent of T. E.
+                          Weed)
+
+  Wickersham            Butterfield & Stevens     1853          --
+                          Mfg. Co., Boston, Mass.
+
+  Willcox & Gibbs       Willcox & Gibbs Sewing    1857          [A]
+    (figs. 39, 131)       Machine Co., New York,
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Williams & Orvis      Williams & Orvis Sewing   ca. 1859      after 1860
+                          Machine Co., Boston,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Wilson (fig. 89)      Wilson (W.G.) Sewing      ca.1867       after 1885
+      (_see_ Buckeye)     Machine Co., Cleveland,
+                          Ohio
+
+  Windsor (one thread)  Vermont Arms Co.,         1856          1858
+                          Windsor, Vt.
+
+  Windsor               Lamson, Goodnow & Yale,   1859          1861
+      (_see_ Clark's      Windsor, Vt.
+      Revolving Looper)
+
+  Name Unknown          John W. Beane             1853          --
+
+       "                Henry Brind               1860          --
+
+       "                Garfield Sewing Machine   1881          --
+                          Co.
+
+       "                Geneva Sewing Machine     1880          --
+                          Co.
+
+       "                Gove & Howard             1855          --
+
+       "                Charles W. Howland,       ca. 1860      --
+                          Wilmington, Del.
+
+       "                Miles Greenwood & Co.,    ca. 1861      --
+                          Cincinnati, Ohio
+
+       "                Hood, Batelle & Co.       1854          1854
+
+       "                Wells & Haynes            1854          1854
+
+       "                Wilson H. Smith,          ca. 1860      --
+                          Birmingham, Conn.
+
+[A] Still in existence.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 68.--AMERICAN BUTTONHOLE, Overseaming & Sewing Machine of about
+1870. Using serial numbers, these machines can be dated approximately as
+follows: 1-7792, 1869; 7793-22366, 1870; 22367-42488, 1871; 42489-61419,
+1872; 61420-75602, 1873; 75603-89132, 1874; 89133-103539, 1875; and
+103540-121477, 1876. Figures are not available for the years from 1877
+to 1886. (Smithsonian photo 46953-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 69.--(NEW) AMERICAN SEWING MACHINE of about 1874.
+Illustration is from a contemporary advertising brochure. (Smithsonian
+photo 33507.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 70.--AMERICAN MAGNETIC SEWING MACHINE, 1854.
+Machines of this type were manufactured for only two years under the
+patent of Thomas C. Thompson, March 29, 1853, and later under the
+patents of Samuel J. Parker, April 11, 1854, and Simon Coon, May 9,
+1854. On September 30, 1853, Elias Howe listed receipts of $1000 from
+the American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co. for patent infringement. The
+machines manufactured after that date carry the Howe name and 1846
+patent date to show proper licensing. Judging by Howe's usual license
+fee of $25 per machine, about 40 machines were manufactured prior to
+September 1853. The company was reported to have made about 600 machines
+in 1854 before it went out of business. The only American Magnetic
+machine known to be in existence is in the collection of the Northern
+Indiana Historical Society at South Bend, Indiana. (_Photo courtesy of
+the Northern Indiana Historical Society._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 71.--ATLANTIC SEWING MACHINE, 1869. This machine
+is typical of the many varieties manufactured for a very short time in
+the 1860s and 1870s. It is about the size of the average hand-turned
+variety, 8 by 10 inches, but lighter in weight. The frame design was the
+patent of L. Porter, May 11, 1869, and the mechanism was patented by
+Alonzo Porter, February 8, 1870. The latter patent model bears the
+painted legend "Atlantic" and is stamped "Aprl 1, 69," indicating that
+it was probably already in commercial production. This date possibly may
+refer also to L. Porter's design patent, since actual date of issue was
+usually later than date of application. (Smithsonian photo 48329-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 72.--A. BARTHOLF SEWING MACHINE, 1853. Abraham
+Bartholf of New York began manufacturing Blodgett & Lerow machines (see
+fig. 20) about 1850; the style and mechanics of these machines, however,
+were primarily those of the Blodgett & Lerow patent as manufactured by
+O. C. Phelps and Goddard, Rice & Co. For this reason they are considered
+Blodgett & Lerow--not Bartholf--machines.
+
+The true Bartholf machine evolved when the manufacturer substituted
+Howe's reciprocating shuttle for the rotary shuttle of the Blodgett &
+Lerow machine, continuing to manufacture the machine in his own adapted
+style. Bartholf manufactured reciprocating-shuttle machines as early as
+1853, and his was one of the first companies licensed by Howe.
+
+All Bartholf machines licensed under Howe's patent carry the Howe name
+and patent date. They are sometimes mistakenly referred to as Howe
+machines, but they are no more Howe machines than those manufactured by
+Wheeler & Wilson, Singer, or many others.
+
+On April 6, 1858, Bartholf was granted a patent for an improvement of
+the shuttle carrier. He continued to manufacture sewing machines under
+the name "Bartholf Sewing Machine Co." until about 1865.
+
+Using serial numbers, Bartholf machines can be dated approximately as
+follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_ _Year_
+
+  1-20             1850
+  21-50            1851
+  51-100           1852
+  101-235          1853
+  236-290          1854
+  291-321          1855
+  322-356          1856
+  357-387          1857
+  388-590          1858
+  591-1337         1859
+
+No record of the number of machines produced by Bartholf after 1859 is
+available.
+
+The Bartholf machine illustrated bears the serial number 128 and the
+inscription "A. Bartholf Manfr., NY--Patented Sept. 1846 E. Howe, Jr."
+This machine is in the collection of the Baltimore County Historical
+Society. Note the close similarity between it and the 1850 Blodgett &
+Lerow machine manufactured by Bartholf. (_Photo courtesy of the
+Baltimore County Historical Society._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 73.--BARTLETT SEWING MACHINE, 1867. The Bartlett
+machine was first manufactured in 1866 under the January 31, 1865, and
+October 10, 1865, patents of Joseph W. Bartlett. The machines were made
+by Goodspeed & Wyman for the Bartlett Co. and were so marked. The
+inventor received another patent on April 7, 1868, and later machines
+carry this third date also. Although the first few hundred machines did
+not bear the dates of patents held by the "Combination," before the end
+of the first year of production Bartlett was paying royalties. He
+continued to manufacture sewing machines until the early seventies when
+he converted to the manufacturing of street lamps.
+
+Using serial numbers, Bartlett's machines can be dated approximately as
+follows: 1-1000, 1866; 1001-3126, 1867; 3127-?, 1868. There is no record
+of serial numbers for the succeeding years. (Smithsonian photo
+45524-G.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 74.--BARTRAM & FANTON SEWING MACHINE, 1867. These
+machines were first manufactured in 1867 under the patents of W. B.
+Bartram, notably his patent of January 1, 1867. Three machines were
+exhibited at The Eleventh Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association in 1869 where they were awarded a bronze medal.
+They were compared favorably to the Willcox & Gibbs machine (see fig.
+39), which they resembled. Bartram received additional patents in the
+early seventies and also manufactured lockstitch machines.
+
+Using serial numbers, machines may be approximately dated as follows:
+1-2958, 1867; 2959-3958, 1868; 3959-4958, 1869; 4959-5958, 1870;
+5959-6962, 1871; 6963-7961, 1872; 7962-8961, 1873; and 8962-9211, 1874.
+(Smithsonian photo P63198.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 75.--BECKWITH SEWING MACHINE, 1871. Among the
+inventors whose patent claims were "to produce a cheap and effective
+sewing machine" was William G. Beckwith. His machine was first
+manufactured by Barlow & Son, and it realized considerable success in
+the few years of its production. The earliest model was operated like a
+pair of scissors or with a cord and ring as illustrated. Beckwith later
+added a hand crank. The machine was purchased in Crewe, Cheshire,
+England; it is stamped "Pat. April 18, 71 by Wm. G. Beckwith, Foreign
+Pats. Secured, Barlow & Son Manuf. N.Y., [serial number] 706." By 1874
+the machines were marked "Beckwith S.M. Co." and two 1872 patent dates
+were added.
+
+Using serial numbers, machines may be dated approximately as follows:
+1-3500, 1871; 3501-7500, 1872; 7501-12500, 1873; 12501-18000, 1874;
+18001-23000, 1875; 23001-?, 1876. (Smithsonian photo 46953-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 76.--BOUDOIR SEWING MACHINE, 1858. This machine, a
+single-thread, chainstitch model was based on the patents of Daniel
+Harris, dated June 9, 1857, June 16, 1857, and October 5, 1858.
+Manufactured primarily by Bennett in Chicago in 1859, it also may have
+been produced in the East, although no manufacturer's name can be found.
+
+In 1860, the Boudoir, also called Harris's Patent sewing machine, was
+exhibited at the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association
+Exhibition where it won a silver medal for "its combination of parts,
+its beauty and simplicity, together with its ease of operation." At this
+time the machine was described as making a "double lock stitch" (another
+name for the double chainstitch). It was also described as having been
+before the public for some time and combining "the improvements of
+others for which the parties pay license." The machine head was
+positioned on the stand similarly to that of the West & Willson (fig.
+127) and stitched from left to right.
+
+It is not known exactly how many of these machines were made or how long
+they were in vogue. Manufacture, although probably ceasing in the 1860s,
+is known to have been discontinued before 1881, when a list of obsolete
+sewing machines was published in _The Sewing Machine News_. (Smithsonian
+photo P63199.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 77.--(NEW) BUCKEYE SEWING MACHINE of about 1875.
+The Buckeye machine was one of several manufactured by W. G. Wilson of
+Cleveland, Ohio. It was licensed under Johnson's extended patent of
+April 18, 1867. Although it was small and hand turned, it used two
+threads and a shuttle to form a lockstitch. The machine was sufficiently
+popular for Wilson to introduce an improved model in the early 1870s,
+which he called the New Buckeye. W. G. Wilson continued to manufacture
+sewing machines until about the mid-eighties, although the Buckeye
+machines were discontinued in the seventies. (Smithsonian photo
+45524-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 78.--CENTENNIAL SEWING MACHINE, 1876. The
+Centennial machine was basically a McLean and Hooper sewing machine
+which was renamed to take advantage of the coming Centennial
+celebration. It was based on the patents of J. N. McLean, March 30,
+1869, and August 2, 1870, and made a two-thread chainstitch. Only about
+five hundred Centennial machines were manufactured in 1873, but by 1876
+over three thousand had been constructed. The machines were advertised
+on white circulars which were printed in red and blue, and engraved with
+two women sewing, one by hand, labeled "Sewing in 1776," and one at a
+Centennial sewing machine, labeled "Sewing in 1876." There is no record
+that the machines were made after 1876. (Smithsonian photo 48216-T.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 79.--CLARK'S Revolving-Looper double-thread sewing
+machine, 1860. This machine was manufactured by Lamson, Goodnow, & Yale
+of Windsor, Vermont. It was an attempt to improve on the combined ideas
+of the Grover and Baker machine, the Nettleton & Raymond machine, and
+the earlier single-thread Windsor machine. The improvements were made
+and patented by Edwin Clark on December 6, 1859. Widely advertised, the
+machines sold for $35 with a foot-power table. They could also be
+operated by hand. Over three thousand were manufactured and sold, and
+preparations were being made to continue manufacture of the earlier
+single-thread Windsor, originally made by the company's predecessor,
+Vermont Arms Co., when the Civil War broke out. A flood of arms orders
+arrived, and the sewing-machine manufacture was discontinued early in
+the summer of 1861. The sewing-machine equipment and business was sold
+to Grout & White of Massachusetts. (Smithsonian photo 48216.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 80.--DU LANEY SEWING MACHINE of about 1872. Most
+of the small, simple, chainstitch sewing machines of this period were
+constructed so that they could either be turned by hand or set into a
+treadle-powered table. Du Laney's Little Monitor, manufactured for only
+a few years, was based on the patents of G.L. Du Laney, July 3, 1866,
+and May 2, 1871. It was a two-thread, chainstitch machine powered only
+by a foot treadle. By simple adjustment, the machine could also make the
+cablestitch and the lockstitch. (Smithsonian photo 48221-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 81.--EUREKA SEWING MACHINE, 1859. An example of
+the many short-lived types of which no written record can be found, this
+particular machine was used as a patent model for certain minor
+improvements in 1859. It has the name "Eureka" painted on the top and
+the following inscription incised on the baster plate: "Eureka Shuttle
+S. M. Co. 469 Broadway, N.Y." Although it is a shuttle machine, it
+carries no patent dates and was not included in the Howe royalty
+records. Neither is it listed in the obsolescence list published in
+1881. The company probably could not pay its royalty fees and was forced
+out of business almost immediately. If this machine had not been used as
+a patent model, no record of the company's existence might remain. It
+should be noted that as in most shuttle machines the head was meant to
+be set into a treadle-powered table. Since most tables are very similar,
+they are not required for identification. (Smithsonian photo 48328-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 82.--M. FINKLE SEWING MACHINE, 1857. The M. Finkle
+machines were manufactured in 1856 and 1857. Sometime before or about
+1859, the inventor, Milton Finkle, formed a partnership and the machines
+were subsequently called M. Finkle & Lyon and later simply Finkle &
+Lyon. In 1859 the machine was awarded a silver medal by the American
+Institute for producing superior manufacturing and family lockstitch
+sewing machines. It also won a silver medal in Boston in 1860 at the
+Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association Exhibition. Although the
+name of the machine was changed to Victor in 1867, the company name
+remained Finkle & Lyon until about 1872 when it was changed to Victor
+also. Victor machines were manufactured until about 1890.
+
+Machines can be dated by their serial number approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_ _Year_
+
+  1-200            1856
+  201-450          1857
+  451-700          1858
+  701-950          1859
+  951-1500         1860
+  1501-3000        1861
+  3001-5000        1862
+  5001-7000        1863
+  7001-9000        1864
+  9001-11000       1865
+  11001-13000      1866
+  13001-15490      1867
+  15491-17490      1868
+  17491-18830      1869
+  18831-21250      1870
+  21251-28890      1871
+  28891-40790      1872
+  40791-48240      1873
+  48241-53530      1874
+  53531-59635      1875
+  59636-65385      1876
+
+No estimates are available for the years 1877 to 1890. (Smithsonian
+photo 48216-A.)]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+<----
+
+[Illustration: Figure 83.--FLORENCE SEWING MACHINE. The Florence machine
+was based on the patents of Leander W. Langdon, whose first patent was
+obtained in 1855. Langdon sewing machines were manufactured by the
+inventor for a few years. It was his patent of March 20, 1860, that was
+the immediate forerunner of the Florence machine, whose name was derived
+from the city of manufacture, Florence, Massachusetts. The Howe royalty
+records of 1860 listed the Florence Sewing Machine Co. as one that took
+out a license that year. Langdon's patent of July 14, 1863, was
+incorporated into the machines manufactured after that date; however,
+the date is always incorrectly stamped "July 18, 1863." In 1865, the
+machine won a silver medal at the Tenth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association.
+
+Over 100,000 Florence machines were manufactured by 1870. About 1880 the
+company changed the name of the machine to Crown. Improvements led to
+the name New Crown by 1885. About this time the right to use the name
+Florence for a sewing machine was purchased by a midwestern firm for an
+entirely different machine. In 1885 the Florence company began to
+manufacture lamp stoves and heating stoves and shortly thereafter they
+discontinued the manufacture of sewing machines.
+
+Using the serial numbers, Florence machines can be dated approximately
+as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-500                1860
+  501-2000             1861
+  2001-8000            1862
+  8001-20000           1863
+  20001-35000          1864
+  35001-50000          1865
+  50001-60000          1866
+  60001-70534          1867
+  70535-82534          1868
+  82535-96195          1869
+  96196-113855         1870
+  113856-129802        1871
+  129803-145592        1872
+  145593-154555        1873
+  154556-160072        1874
+  160073-164964        1875
+  164965-167942        1876
+
+No record of the number of machines produced each year between 1877 and
+1885 is available.
+
+The machine shown here, serial number 49131, was manufactured in 1865.
+It is stamped with the following patent dates: "Oct. 30, 1855, Mar. 20,
+1860, Jan. 22, 1861, and July 18, 1863" and the Wilson patent date "Nov.
+12, 1850." The machines from 1860-1863 are marked with the early Langdon
+patents, excluding the 1863 one, and they have the additional patent
+dates of Howe and others: "Sept. 10, 1846, Nov. 12, 1850, Aug. 12, 1851,
+May 30, 1854, Dec. 19, 1854, Nov. 4, 1856." (Smithsonian photo
+45572-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 84.--GLOBE SEWING MACHINE. J. G. Folsom received
+two design patents in 1864, one on March 1 for a spool holder and one on
+May 17 for the basic style of the machine. Also in the same year, he was
+awarded a mechanical patent for an adjustment in the lower looper that
+would accommodate a change in needle size. Using these patents, he
+manufactured a single-thread, chainstitch machine, the Globe. Folsom
+also exhibited his machines at the Tenth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association in 1865. The Globe attracted particular
+attention and was awarded a silver medal.]
+
+In 1866 Folsom devised a new treadle attachment for hand-operated
+machines; the invention was featured in _Scientific American_, volume
+14, number 17, with a Globe machine. Folsom again exhibited at the
+Massachusetts Mechanics exhibition in 1869. In addition to an improved
+single-thread Globe, he also showed a double-thread, elastic-stitch
+(double chainstitch) machine for which he received a silver medal.
+
+Folsom machines were manufactured until 1871; 280 machines were
+manufactured in that year.
+
+The Globe sewing machine illustrated is stamped "J. G. Folsom, Maker,
+Winchendon, Mass. Patented April 28, 1863 [Ketchum's patent], Mar. 1,
+1864. May 17, 1864." The machine was manufactured before November 1864
+or it would include the patent for the lower loop adjustment.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-H.)
+
+NOTE: At least five sewing machines, those in figures 84 through 89, are
+similar enough in appearance to cause some confusion, because their
+basic design stems from a short pillar.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 85.--GLOBE SEWING MACHINE with treadle attachment
+as illustrated in _Scientific American_, April 21, 1866. (Smithsonian
+photo 48221-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 86.--EMPIRE SEWING MACHINE, late 1860s. Although
+an Empire Sewing Machine Co. existed in New York in the 1860s (the
+predecessor of the Remington-Empire Co.), it is not known whether this
+machine was manufactured by that same company, which was primarily
+concerned with producing shuttle machines. This chainstitch machine is
+marked "Empire Co., Patented April 23, 1863," the date referring again
+to Ketchum's patent. It is very similar to Folsom's Globe, except that
+it has claw feet rather than a closed base; the painted designs on the
+base of both are almost identical to those on the Monitor. Its spool
+holder, mounted in reverse, is a crude imitation of the Folsom patent.
+The Empire machines were probably manufactured about the same time as
+the Wilson machine. (_Photo courtesy of The Henry Ford Museum and
+Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 87.--ATWATER SEWING MACHINE, 1858. Atwater
+machines, based on the patent of B. Atwater, issued May 5, 1857, were
+manufactured from 1857 to about 1860. The machine illustrated, which is
+designed to be operated by a hand-turned wheel, has an upper forked dog
+feed, and its horizontally supported spool is directly over the
+stitching area. Like the others, it has a striated pillar and claw feet.
+The manufacturer is unknown. (Smithsonian photo P63200.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 88.--MONITOR SEWING MACHINE, 1860-1866. The
+Monitor machines of this style were not marked by their manufacturers,
+Shaw & Clark of Biddeford, Maine. Later the company was forced by the
+"Combination" to pay a royalty, so it changed the style and began
+marking its machines with the company name and patent dates (see fig.
+119 for copy of seal). The Monitor, which employed the conventional
+vertical spindle to hold the spool of thread, had a top feed in the form
+of a walking presser. Its striated pillar was similar to that of the
+Atwater machine, and both featured the same claw feet and urn-like top.
+Unlike the Atwater, however, the Monitor had a double drive from the
+hand-turned wheel, which was grooved for operation with belt and
+treadle. (Smithsonian photo 33458.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 89.--WILSON SEWING MACHINE, late 1860s to early
+1870s. In addition to the Buckeye (see fig. 77), W. G. Wilson
+manufactured several other styles of sewing machines. This one, a
+combination of the varying styles of the earlier pillar machine has even
+duplicated the general style of the spool holder patented by Folsom. The
+pillar is not striated, but the machine does repeat the claw feet of the
+Atwater and Monitor machines. Wilson machines are usually marked "Wilson
+Sewing Mach. Manuf'g Co. Cleveland, Ohio, Ketchum's Patent April 28,
+1863." The latter name and/or patent date are found on many of the
+machines of this general construction. The patent is that issued to
+Stephen C. Ketchum for his method of converting rotary motion into
+reciprocal motion. (_Photo courtesy of The Henry Ford Museum and
+Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 90.--GRANT BROTHERS SEWING MACHINE, 1867. This
+machine was one of several styles that utilized Raymond's 1861 patented
+chainstitch method. This machine, however, used an under feed rather
+than a top feed.
+
+Neither a name nor a date appears on the machine. In the June 25, 1907,
+issue of the _Sewing Machine Times_ it was called the Common Sense
+machine, but detailed research has turned up no evidence to substantiate
+this name. However, a dated brochure advertising the Grant Brothers
+machine and showing a model identical to that illustrated in the _Sewing
+Machine Times_ has been found. The brochure states that the machine made
+an elastic lockstitch; this was not a true lockstitch, however, but was
+in fact a simple chainstitch.
+
+Grant Brothers sold their machine, which had silver-plated mountings,
+for $18; the price included hemmer, Barnum's self-sewer, oilcan,
+screwdriver, clamp, gauge, and four silver needles. An additional charge
+of $12 was made for a table and treadle. Compared to other chainstitch
+machines the price was high, and the company was short-lived.
+(Smithsonian photo 60794-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 91.--GREENMAN AND TRUE SEWING MACHINE. This
+lockstitch machine based on S. H. Roper's patent of 1857 was
+manufactured at Norwich, Connecticut, from 1859 to 1861 by Cyrus B.
+True, the inventor, and Jared F. Greenman, True's financial partner.
+Licensed by the "Combination" and carrying the Howe patent date, the
+machine had obvious merit: it was strong, well made--a good family
+machine. Exhibited at the Ninth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association in September 1860, it received a bronze
+medal. (At this time the company was listed as Morse and True--the
+inventor had obviously taken on a second financial backer.)
+Unfortunately, the best market for the machine lay in the South, and the
+outbreak of the Civil War made collections impossible. This greatly
+retarded business and finally drove the firm into bankruptcy. In all, it
+is doubtful that more than one thousand machines were produced in the
+three years of manufacture.
+
+The machine illustrated is marked "Greenman and True" and bears the
+serial number 402; it was probably manufactured early in 1860.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-N.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 92.--GROVER AND BAKER SEWING MACHINE. The Grover
+and Baker machine was one of the more popular machines from the 1850s
+until the early 1870s. The company produced iron-frame machines, fine
+cabinet models, and portables (figs. 35 and 36). Their machines may be
+dated by serial number approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-500                1851
+  501-1000             1852
+  1001-1658            1853
+  1659-3893            1854
+  3894-5038            1855
+  5039-7000            1856
+  7001-10681           1857
+  10682-15752          1858
+  15753-26033          1859
+  26034-44869          1860
+  44870-63705          1861
+  63706-82641          1862
+  82642-101477         1863
+  101478-120313        1864
+  120314-139148        1865
+  139149-157886        1866
+  157887-190886        1867
+  190887-225886        1868
+  225887-261004        1869
+  261005-338407        1870
+  338408-389246        1871
+  389247-441257        1872
+  441258-477437        1873
+  477438-497438        1874
+  497439-512439        1875
+
+(Smithsonian photo 45513-B, an engraving of a Grover and Baker sewing
+machine from an advertising brochure of about 1870.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 93.--HANCOCK SEWING MACHINE, 1867. One of the many
+inventors who turned his talents to inventing and producing a
+mechanically simple and cheaper machine was Henry J. Hancock. His 1867
+machine is only about six inches wide; it uses a tambour-type needle,
+pulling a loop of thread from below the stitching surface. (Smithsonian
+photo P63197.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 94.--HANCOCK SEWING MACHINE, 1868. Hancock in 1868
+received both a design patent and a mechanical patent now using the
+eye-pointed needle and a hook to form the chainstitch. The design was an
+open framework circle with a mirror mounted in front of the table clamp.
+The purpose of the designated "looking glass" was decorative only. The
+Hancock machines were only manufactured for a few years. They measure
+10-1/2 inches in width, slightly larger than the earlier machine.
+(Smithsonian photo 48328-M.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 95.--[A.C.] HERRON'S PATENT SEWING MACHINE, 1858.
+The manufacturer of this machine is not known, but the machine was based
+on the patent of Abial C. Herron issued August 4, 1857. All the machines
+carry a small heart-shaped plate just above the needle descent bearing
+the patentee's name and the patent date. The patent covered an
+improvement in the method of making the chainstitch. The machines were
+provided with a hand crank, but were also meant to be operated by a belt
+and treadle. No records of the extent of manufacture of this machine
+have been found. This machine head measures 14 inches in width, about
+standard size. (Smithsonian photo 48329-J.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 96.--A. B. HOWE SEWING MACHINE of about 1860.
+(Smithsonian photo 45525-C.)]
+
+Figures 96, 97, and 98.--THE HOWE MACHINES. It is difficult for many to
+believe that the stamped legend "Elias Howe patent, Sept. 10, 1846" does
+not certify that a machine is an original Howe. Although Elias Howe was
+granted a patent for the lockstitch machine in 1846, he did not
+establish a sewing-machine factory for about twenty years. Early in the
+1850s and later through the "Combination," however, he licensed others
+to make machines using his patent. These machines bore that patent date
+for which a royalty was being paid.
+
+Among his early licensees was his elder brother Amasa who organized the
+Howe Sewing Machine Co. in 1854. The Amasa Howe machines were very good
+ones, and in 1862 Amasa won the prize medal at the London International
+Exhibition. This immensely increased the popularity of the machine and
+Elias offered to join Amasa by building a large factory at Bridgeport,
+Connecticut, to fill the increasing demand for more machines. The
+machines produced at Bridgeport, however, although imitating the Amasa
+Howe machines, proved inferior in quality. Amasa found that, rather than
+helping his business reputation, his brother's efforts were hurting him,
+and he severed business relations with Elias.
+
+Because of their brief association, the 1862 prize medal awarded to A.
+B. Howe was sometimes credited to Elias. The latter did receive awards
+for his patent, but never for his manufactured machines. When the two
+brothers dissolved their joint venture, Elias attempted to call his new
+company the Howe Sewing Machine Co., but Amasa's claim that this name
+had been his exclusive property for many years was upheld by the courts.
+Elias then omitted the word "Sewing" and called his company simply the
+Howe Machine Co.
+
+After Elias died in 1867, the company was run by his sons-in-law, the
+Stockwell brothers. To distinguish their machines from those of A. B.
+Howe, they marked each machine with a brass medallion picturing the head
+and flowing locks of Elias Howe. They also continued to advertise their
+machine as the "original" Howe. In about 1873, B. P. Howe, Amasa's son,
+sold the Howe Sewing Machine Co. to the Stockwell brothers, who
+continued to manufacture Howe machines until 1886.
+
+The machines of the A. B. Howe Sewing Machine Co. may be dated by serial
+number approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-60                 1854
+  61-113               1855
+  114-166              1856
+  167-299              1857
+  300-478              1858
+  479-1399             1859
+
+No figures are available for 1860-1870, but 20,051 machines were
+manufactured in 1871.
+
+The machines of the [Elias] Howe Machine Co. are not believed to have
+begun with serial number 1, and no figures are available for 1865-1867.
+After that, the machines may be dated by serial number approximately as
+follows:
+
+_Serial Number_ _Year_
+
+11,000-46,000        1868
+46,001-91,843        1869
+91,844-167,000       1870
+167,001-301,010      1871
+301,011-446,010      1872
+446,011-536,010      1873
+536,011-571,010      1874
+571,011-596,010      1875
+596,011-705,304      1876
+
+No figures are available for 1877-1886.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 97.--ADVERTISING BROCHURE distributed by E. Howe
+during the brothers' brief partnership; the machines are basically A. B.
+Howe machines, 1863. (Smithsonian photo 49373-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 98.--HOWE (STOCKWELL BROTHERS) MACHINE, 1870.
+(Smithsonian photo 45572-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 99.--PATENT MODEL OF CHRISTOPHER HODGKINS,
+November 2, 1852, assigned to Nehemiah Hunt. (Smithsonian photo 34551.)]
+
+Figures 99, 100, and 101.--THE N. HUNT (later, in 1856, Hunt & Webster
+and finally in 1858 Ladd and Webster) sewing machine was based on the
+patents of Christopher Hodgkins, November 2, 1852, and May 9, 1854, both
+of which were assigned to Nehemiah Hunt. First manufactured in 1853, the
+machine, which closely resembled the Hodgkins' patent, won a silver
+medal at the exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics
+Association that same year.
+
+In 1856 Hunt took a partner, and the company became Hunt & Webster. An
+interesting account of this company appeared as a feature article in
+_Ballou's Pictorial_, July 5, 1856, where it was reported that "the
+North American Shoe Company have over fifty of the latest improved
+machines, represented in these drawings [fig. 31], now running...." The
+article also estimated that a 55-million dollar increase in shoe
+manufacturing in Massachusetts in 1855 was due to the sewing machine. In
+1856 the Hunt & Webster machine again won a silver medal at the
+exhibition. Very late in 1858 the company became Ladd, Webster, & Co.
+and continued to manufacture both family and manufacturing sewing
+machines until the mid-1860s.
+
+The approximate date of manufacture can be determined by serial number:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-100                1853
+  101-368              1854
+  369-442              1855
+  443-622              1856
+  623-1075             1857
+  1076-1565            1858
+  1566-3353            1859
+
+No figures are available for the 1860s.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 100.--RIGHT: HUNT & WEBSTER sewing machine of
+about 1855, serial number 414. (Smithsonian photo 48216-V.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 101.--LADD, WEBSTER & CO. sewing machine of about
+1858, Boston, serial number 1497. (Smithsonian photo 46953.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 102.--IMPROVED COMMON SENSE sewing machine of
+about 1870. This machine is so very similar to the New England machines
+in its feed, threading, looping mechanism, and in its general design,
+that it is sometimes mistaken for the earlier New England machines (see
+figs. 112 and 113).
+
+Dating from the early 1870s, the Improved Common Sense machine is about
+10 inches in width, two inches larger than the New England machine. The
+spool holder is similar to Folsom's patented design, but is less
+refined. A page from an advertising brochure of the period verifies the
+name of the machine, but does not identify the manufacturer.
+
+There are no patent dates or identifying names or numbers on the machine
+illustrated. Although the Empire Co. also produced a machine of this
+style, their models are marked with their name and with Ketchum's patent
+date, April 23, 1863. Of the several styles of machine using the Raymond
+looper, this type seems to account for the largest volume manufactured,
+as evidenced by the proportionately higher number of examples still
+extant. (Smithsonian photo 48328-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 103.--JOHNSON SEWING MACHINE, 1857. Another of the
+all-but-forgotten manufacturers of the 1850s was Emery, Houghton & Co.,
+who constructed the A.F. Johnson machines. Examination of existing
+machines indicates that they were manufactured in 1856 and 1857, and
+possibly a little longer. This one from 1857 bears the serial number
+624, so we know that several hundred were manufactured. The head is
+ornately attractive, slightly reminiscent of Wheeler & Wilson models,
+and of standard size. (Smithsonian photo 48329-B.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 104.--"LADY" SEWING MACHINE of about 1859. The
+contemporary name of this machine is unknown. The unusual design of the
+head, or main support, is based in part on the design patent, number
+216, of Isaac F. Baker, issued April 10, 1849, for a "new and useful
+design[,] for ornamenting furniture[,] called Cora Munro" who was a
+character in James Fenimore Cooper's _Last of the Mohicans_. The design
+shows a female figure wearing a riding dress and hat that is ornamented
+with a plume and a bow. Her right hand holds a riding stick and the
+left, her skirt. Trunks of trees and foliage complete the Baker design,
+which is known to have been used for girandoles of the period. A
+companion design was also patented by Baker, number 215, which is in the
+form of a man in military costume and is named "Major Heyward," for
+another character in _Last of the Mohicans_.
+
+The sewing machines based on the "Cora Munro" design also use branch
+designs as the overhanging arms. A mother bird sits in the upper branch
+and descends to feed a young bird as the machine is in operation. The
+one illustrated was used as the machine submitted with a request for
+patent by George Hensel of New York City for which patent 24,737 was
+issued on July 12, 1859. Since Hensel's patent application was for an
+improvement in the feed, there was no need for the highly decorative
+head unless such a machine was commercially available. The patent
+specifications merely state that the head is "ornamented." Another
+sewing machine of this type was used as the patent model by Sidney
+Parker of Sing Sing, New York, number 24,780, issued on the same date as
+the Hensel patent. Parker's patent also covered an improved feeding
+mechanism. In the patent description, however, the inventor states that
+"the general form of the machine is not unlike others now in use." By
+this he might have meant in the design, or possibly in the basic
+structural form. Other than the two machines described, no other
+examples are known to have survived, but "Lady" or "Cora Munro" sewing
+machines were manufactured. (Smithsonian photo 45506-D.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 105.--LANDFEAR'S PATENT SEWING MACHINE of about
+1857. Another of the many machines that, except for isolated examples,
+have almost completely disappeared from the records is Landfear's
+machine. Fortunately, this manufacturer marked his machine--where many
+did not--stamping it: "Landfear's patent-Dec^r 1856, No. 262, W. H.
+Johnson's Patent Feb. 26th 1856, Manfrd by Parkers, Snow, Brooks & Co.,
+West Meriden, Conn." (There was a Parker sewing machine manufactured by
+the Charles Parker Co. of Meriden, but his machine was a double-thread
+chainstitch machine and was licensed by the "Combination." The Landfear
+machine may have been an earlier attempt by a predecessor or closely
+related company.)
+
+The Landfear patent was for a shuttle machine, but it also included a
+mode for regulating stitch length. The name chosen for this machine may
+be incorrect, since the single-thread chainstitch mechanism is primarily
+that of W. H. Johnson, but since the Johnson patent also was used on
+other machines the name "Landfear" was assigned. The machine was
+probably another attempt to evade royalty payment to the "Combination."
+
+The serial number 262 indicates that at least that many machines were
+manufactured, although this model is the only one known to be in
+existence. The support arm of the machine head is iron, cast as a vase
+of flowers and painted in natural colors. The paint on the head is
+original, but the table has been refinished, and the iron legs, which
+had rusted, have been repainted. (Smithsonian photo 48440-G.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 106.--LATHROP SEWING MACHINE of about 1873. These
+machines were manufactured by the Lathrop Combination Sewing Machine Co.
+under the patents of Lebbeus W. Lathrop of 1869, 1870, and 1873. The
+machine used two threads, both taken from spools; moreover, it produced
+not only the double chainstitch, but it was constructed to produce also
+a lockstitch and a combined "lock and chain stitch." The machine
+illustrated bears the serial number 31 and the patent dates of Grover &
+Baker, and Bachelder among others, in addition to the first two Lathrop
+patent dates. The company lasted only a few years as it is included in
+the 1881 list of manufacturers that had ceased to exist. (Smithsonian
+photo 46953-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 107.--ILLUSTRATION FROM A BROCHURE, marked in ink:
+"The National Portrait Gallery, 1855." Singer Archives. (Smithsonian
+photo 48091-E.)]
+
+Figures 107 and 108.--THE NICHOLS AND LEAVITT sewing machines. One of
+Elias Howe's earliest licensees was J. B. Nichols. His machine,
+manufactured at first with George Bliss and later alone as J. B. Nichols
+& Co., was called Howe's Improved Patent Sewing Machine. It was,
+however, no more a Howe machine than any of the others produced under
+the Howe patent.
+
+In July 1855 Nichols went into partnership with Rufus Leavitt, and the
+company name changed to Nichols, Leavitt & Co. In 1857 it was changed
+again to Leavitt & Co., and finally in the mid-1860s to Leavitt Sewing
+Machine Co. By the 1870s, it was defunct.
+
+The Nichols-Leavitt machines can be dated by their serial numbers
+approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_    _Year_    _Company_
+
+  1-28               1853      Nichols & Bliss
+  29-245             1854      J. B. Nichols & Co.
+  246-397            1855      J. B. Nichols & Co.--Nichols, Leavitt & Co.
+  398-632            1856      Nichols, Leavitt & Co.
+  633-827            1857      Leavitt & Co.
+  828-902            1858               "
+  903-1115           1859               "
+  1116-1436          1860               "
+  1437-1757          1861               "
+  1758-2077          1862               "
+  2078-2400          1863               "
+  2401-2900          1864               "
+  2901-3900          1865      Leavitt Sewing Machine Co.
+  3901-4900          1866               "
+  4901-5951          1867               "
+  5952-6951          1868               "
+  6952-7722          1869               "
+
+There is no record that the company was in existence after 1869.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 108.--LEAVITT SEWING MACHINE of about 1868, serial
+number 6907. (Smithsonian photo 48328.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 109.--LESTER SEWING MACHINE of about 1858. The
+Lester machine was first manufactured by J. H. Lester in Brooklyn, New
+York. His machine was based on the patents of William Johnson, John
+Bradshaw and others but not on the patents held by the "Combination,"
+although he had secured a license. When the Old Dominion Company applied
+for a license from the "Combination," Lester learned of this, went to
+Richmond, and arranged to combine his business with theirs. Since the
+Lester machine was the better one, it was agreed to cease the
+manufacture of the Old Dominion machines early in 1860 and in March the
+company name was changed to the Lester Mfg. Co. Late in 1860, George
+Sloat entered the company with his Elliptic machine; the name was
+changed again, this time to Union Sewing Machine Co. The manufacture of
+both sewing machines continued until the outbreak of the Civil War the
+following year, which brought a conversion to arms production. The
+manufacture of Lester machines was never resumed.
+
+The machine illustrated was manufactured by J. H. Lester in Brooklyn; it
+bears the serial number 96. The number of Lester machines manufactured
+from 1858 through 1861 is not known, but it was probably less than
+1,000. (Smithsonian photo P63359.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 110.--NE PLUS ULTRA of about 1867. Another of the
+interesting hand-turned chainstitch machines of the late 1850s and 1860s
+was patented by O.L. Reynolds. The baster plates and the handle on the
+wheel are missing on this machine, but an interesting shield and
+draped-flag pattern is painted on the base.
+
+Another machine of this type has the following inscription stamped on
+the baster plate: "Ne Plus Ultra, Patent Applied For, 174, O.L.
+Reynolds, Patentee & Manufacturer, Dover N.H." Reynold's patent model,
+March 30, 1858, bears the serial number 110, indicating that the machine
+illustrated here--which bears the serial number 26--was manufactured
+before the patent was obtained. (Smithsonian photo 48216-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 111.--NETTLETON & RAYMOND SEWING MACHINE. One of
+the most ornate of the early, small, hand-turned sewing machines was
+patented and manufactured by Willford H. Nettleton and Charles Raymond
+whose first patent was received on April 14, 1857. The patent model,
+believed to be a commercial machine, is beautifully silver-plated.
+Whether this was a special one-of-a-kind model, or whether the inventors
+tried to make a commercial success of a silver-plated machine is not
+known. The machine made a two-thread chainstitch, taking both threads
+from commercial spools. By October 1857, the inventors had received
+their second patent. This time the machine was brass and gilt--brighter,
+but less expensive. At the same time, Nettleton & Raymond began
+manufacturing sewing-shears machines under the patent of J. E.
+Hendricks.
+
+By the latter half of 1858, Nettleton & Raymond had moved from Bristol,
+Connecticut, to Brattleboro, Vermont. The patented improvement of the
+two-thread chainstitch machine received that year was in the name of
+"Raymond, assignor to Nettleton," although the machines of this type
+bear neither name nor patent date. No record of the price for which they
+were sold has been found, but it would be fair to estimate that it was
+probably about $25. This style of machine was discontinued when the
+manufacture of the simpler, more profitable New England model began, a
+machine that Raymond had initiated just before the partners left
+Bristol. (Smithsonian photo 45505-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 112.--RAYMOND PATENT MODEL, March 9, 1858.
+(Smithsonian photo 32009-O.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 113.--NEW ENGLAND sewing machine of about 1860,
+manufactured by Nettleton & Raymond; it bears the Raymond patent date of
+March 9, 1858. (Smithsonian photo 45505-G.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 112 and 113.--NEW ENGLAND SEWING MACHINES. The
+small, hand-turned, sewing machines some of which were called Common
+Sense, were manufactured by at least three companies and possibly more.
+The earliest ones were those made by Nettleton & Raymond based on
+Charles Raymond's patent of March 9, 1858, which featured a hinged
+presser foot acting as the top feed. On July 30, 1861, Raymond received
+a patent for an improved looper; this date is found on all machines
+later manufactured by the inventor.
+
+In 1858 Nettleton and Raymond had moved from Bristol, Connecticut, to
+Brattleboro, Vermont. Also in Brattleboro at this time were Thomas H.
+White and Samuel Barker, who were manufacturing a small machine called
+the Brattleboro. White left Vermont in 1862 and went to Massachusetts.
+There, in partnership with William Grout, he also began to manufacture
+New England machines; these were basically the same as the Raymond
+machines. After a short time, Grout left the partnership with White and
+moved to Winchendon, there continuing to make New England machines for
+approximately one more year. In 1865, J. G. Folsom of Winchendon
+exhibited a New England machine at the Tenth Exhibition of the
+Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association along with his Globe
+machine. Whether both machines were manufactured by him or whether he
+might have been exhibiting one of Grout's machines is not known.
+
+There is no record that New England machines were manufactured after
+1865. There is a great similarity between these machines and the
+Improved Common Sense sewing machines of the 1870s. It is believed that
+the name "Common Sense" was given by frugal New Englanders to several of
+the cheaper chainstitch machines of the 1860s.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 114.--PRATT'S SECOND PATENT MODEL, March 3, 1857,
+probably a commercial machine. (Smithsonian photo 48328-H.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 114 and 115.--PRATT'S PATENT and the Ladies
+Companion sewing machine. The machines manufactured under the patents of
+Samuel F. Pratt were first sold in 1857 and 1858 as Pratt's patent.
+These machines carry the Pratt name and the patent dates "Feb. 3, 1857
+Mar. 3;" the latter is an 1857 patent date also. In 1859 the Pratt
+machine was called the Ladies Companion and was so marked. It was also
+marked with the 1857 patent dates, the date February 16, 1858, and a
+serial number, and was stamped "Boston, Mass." Manufacture was
+discontinued after a few years.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 115.--LADIES COMPANION, 1859. (_Photo courtesy of
+The Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 116.--QUAKER CITY SEWING MACHINE. During the first
+decade of sewing-machine manufacture many types of handsome wooden cases
+were developed to house the mechanisms. Although such cases increased
+the total cost, they were greatly admired and were purchased whenever
+family funds permitted. The machine was based on the patents of William
+P. Uhlinger: a mechanical patent for a double chainstitch machine on
+August 17, 1858 (antedated May 8), and a patent for the casing on
+December 28, 1858. The machine head was lowered into the casing as the
+lid was brought forward and closed--an idea much ahead of its time.
+
+This Quaker City machine, serial number 18, was purchased by Benjamin F.
+Meadows of Lafayette, Alabama, for $150 just prior to the Civil War.
+Relatively few machines of this type were manufactured, and the Quaker
+City Sewing Machine Co. existed for only a few years. Its apparent hope
+for a southern market was short-lived, and it was unable to compete
+either with the companies licensed under the "Combination" or with those
+producing less expensive machines. (Smithsonian photo 46953-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 117.--FROM AN ADVERTISING BROCHURE, marked in ink,
+"The National Portrait Gallery, 1855," in the Singer Company's archives.
+The brochure states "Howard & Davis, 34 Water Street, Boston,
+Massachusetts Sole Manufacturers of Robinson's Patent Sewing Machine
+with Rope[r]'s Improvements." (Smithsonian photo 48091-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 118.--SEWING MACHINE OF ABOUT 1856 with
+inscription "Howard & Davis Makers, Boston, Mass. Robinson & Roper Pat.
+Dec. 10, 1850, Aug. 15, 1854"; the drive wheel and the circular
+stitching plate of this machine are missing. (Smithsonian photo
+48440-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 117 and 118.--ROBINSON AND ROPER sewing machines,
+1855-1856. This is one of the few machines producing a backstitch or
+half backstitch to realize any commercial success. Manufactured a very
+short time by Howard & Davis, it was a short-thread machine, based on
+the Frederick Robinson patent of December 10, 1850, and the Samuel Roper
+patent of August 15, 1854. Roper produced additional improvements for
+which he received a patent on November 4, 1856. In the _Scientific
+American_, November 1, 1856, the new machine was discussed: "Robinson &
+Roper exhibit their new improved sewing machines, which appear to
+operate with great success. Two needles are employed, the points of
+which are furnished with hooks that alternately catch the thread and
+form the stitch. The finest kind of cotton thread or silk can be used.
+The work appears well done. Price $100."]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 119.--ILLUSTRATED PAGE in a Shaw & Clark
+advertising brochure, published in late 1864. (Smithsonian photo
+61321.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 120.--SHAW & CLARK SEWING MACHINE (Page patent) of
+1867, Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts. (Smithsonian photo 48216-L.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 119 and 120.--SHAW & CLARK SEWING MACHINES. In
+addition to the early style Monitor sewing machine sold by Shaw & Clark
+without a name or any identifying marks, the company continued to
+manufacture machines after a lawsuit with the "Combination" forced them
+to take out a license. They manufactured an adapted version of their
+Monitor and an entirely new design patented in 1861. Their machines were
+now marked with the company name and a list of patent dates including
+those of Howe, Wheeler and Wilson, Grover and Baker, and Singer and the
+Batchelder patent, together with their own design patents. In 1867 the
+company moved from Biddeford, Maine, to Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts.
+In the same year, they began manufacturing a machine of the design
+patented by T. C. Page. The company is believed to have become the
+Chicopee Sewing Machine Company which appeared the following year and
+remained in business only a very short time. One Chicopee sewing machine
+is in the Smithsonian collection.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 121.--SINGER "Traverse Shuttle Machine--Letter A."
+(Smithsonian photo 58984.)]
+
+Figures 121 and 122.--SINGER SEWING MACHINES. From 1850 to 1858 the
+Singer company produced heavy manufacturing-type sewing machines similar
+to the patent model shown earlier (fig. 28). The first machine for
+family use, Singer's new "Family" sewing machine (fig. 33) was
+manufactured from 1858-1861. Their second-style family machine was
+called the "Traverse Shuttle Machine--Letter A;" it was manufactured
+from 1859 to 1865, when they introduced their third family machine and
+called it the "New Family" sewing machine. This style machine continued
+until about 1883 when the "Improved Family" machine appeared. In
+addition to the lockstitch machines, Singer also manufactured
+chainstitch machines, and many highly specialized manufacturing
+machines.
+
+From 1857 through the 1880s, the Singer machines were marked with two
+serial numbers. It is possible that the numbers were related to the
+"Combination" royalties paid by the Singer company. Until about 1873
+there was a difference of exactly 4,000 in the two numbers, thus one
+machine would be marked 12163 and directly below it would be marked
+16163. From 1873 the last three digits of the two numbers continued to
+be the same but the lower number might be much lower in value than
+either number used in earlier years. The larger number is believed to
+have been a record of total production while the lower number may have
+referred to a machine of a particular style. The Singer company records
+can shed no light on the meaning of the top (or lower of the two) serial
+numbers. Generally, in the earlier machines, the difference in the two
+numbers will not affect the dating of a machine by more than one year.
+Since dating by serial number can only be estimated, the two numbers do
+not add an appreciable variable prior to 1873. Only the larger number,
+however, should be considered in dating machines after 1873.
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-100                1850
+  101-900              1851
+  901-1711             1852
+  1712-2521            1853
+  2522-3400            1854
+  3401-4283            1855
+  4284-6847            1856
+  6848-10477           1857
+  10478-14071          1858
+  14072-25024          1859
+  25025-43000          1860
+  43001-61000          1861
+  61001-79396          1862
+  79397-99426          1863
+  99427-123058         1864
+  123059-149399        1865
+  149400-180360        1866
+  180361-223414        1867
+  223415-283044        1868
+  283045-369826        1869
+  369827-497660        1870
+  497661-678921        1871
+  678922-898680        1872
+  898681-1121125       1873
+  1121126-1362805      1874
+  1362806-1612658      1875
+  1612659-1874975      1876
+
+Since records of annual production from 1877 to the turn of the century
+are not complete, it is difficult to establish yearly approximations.
+Using the machines submitted as patent models, and thus known to have
+been manufactured before the date of deposit, however, has provided us
+with the following date guides. By 1877 there had been 2 million
+machines manufactured, 3 million by 1880, 4 million by 1882, 5 million
+by 1884, 6 million by 1886, 7 million by 1888, 8 million by 1889, 9
+million by 1890, and 10 million by 1891.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 122.--SINGER "New Family" sewing machine.
+(Smithsonian photo 58987.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 123.--STANDARD SEWING MACHINE of about 1870. This
+chainstitch machine is believed to have been made by the company that
+later became the Standard Shuttle Sewing Machine Company, when they
+began manufacturing lockstitch machines about 1874. This machine is
+marked with the name, "Standard," and with the dates "Patented July 14,
+1870, Patented Jan. 22, 1856, Dec. 9, 1856, Dec. 12, 1865." The dates
+refer to the reissue and extended reissue of the Bachelder and the A. B.
+Wilson patents. The number of chainstitch machines of this type that
+were manufactured is not known. (Smithsonian photo 45506-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 124.--TAGGART & FARR sewing machine, front view.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-P.)]
+
+Figures 124 and 125.--TAGGART & FARR sewing machine, 1860. The Taggart &
+Farr is an almost forgotten machine. It was based on Chester Farr's
+patent of August 9, 1859. The machine, however, was in commercial
+production as early as 1858, the year the patent application was made.
+Using two threads--both taken directly from the spool--to form a
+chainstitch, the machine was operated basically by treadle but also by
+hand. The drive wheel is missing on this machine, but it would normally
+appear on the right.
+
+The name and patent date were painted on the end of the machine. This
+was true of many other machines of this period, which is why so many go
+unidentified once the paint has become worn. Several thousand Taggart &
+Farr machines were manufactured, but the company is believed to have had
+a short life, for it was among those that had disappeared by 1881.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 125.--TAGGART & FARR sewing machine, end view.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-M.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 126.--WATSON SEWING MACHINE, 1856, illustrated in
+Scientific American, December 13, 1856. The earliest Watson machines
+were two-thread lockstitch machines, as described in the _Scientific
+American_, August 10, 1850. Although the magazine reported that the
+inventor had applied for a patent, the earliest lockstitch patent issued
+to William C. Watson was on March 11, 1856. A few of his machines were
+made in 1850, the article continued, "several of these machines are
+nearly finished ... persons desirous of seeing them can be gratified by
+calling upon Messrs. Jones & Lee." A Watson machine was exhibited by
+Jones & Lee at the Sixth Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association held in Boston in September 1850.
+
+In 1853 a Watson machine was exhibited at the New York Industry of All
+Nations Exhibition, but this was a single-looping machine; Watson
+received a patent for this single-thread machine on November 25, 1856.
+
+In the December 13, 1856, issue of _Scientific American_ a machine
+called Watson's "Family" sewing machine was illustrated and described.
+It was a small machine (only 8 by 5 inches) manufactured by Watson &
+Wooster and selling for $10. References to the Watson single-thread
+machine occur as late as 1860, but no examples are known to have
+survived. (Smithsonian photo 48221-B.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 127.--WEST & WILLSON SEWING MACHINE of about 1859.
+The West & Willson machine, manufactured under the patent of H. B. West
+and H. F. Willson, enjoyed a very brief span of popularity. The patent
+covered the peculiar method of operating a spring-looper in combination
+with an eye-pointed needle to form a single chainstitch, but whether
+machines of this single-thread variety were manufactured is unknown. The
+machine illustrated here is a two-thread machine of basically the same
+description. It stitches from left to right and bears serial number 1544
+and the inscription "West & Willson Co. patented June 29, 1858."
+(Smithsonian photo 49456-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 128.--WHEELER & WILSON SEWING MACHINE of about
+1872. Serial number 670974. (Smithsonian photo P63149-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 129.--WHEELER AND WILSON NO. 8 sewing machine of
+about 1876. (Smithsonian photo 17663-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 128 and 129.--Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines.
+The Wheeler and Wilson company was the largest manufacturer of sewing
+machines in the 1850s and the 1860s.
+
+It began in 1851 as A. B. Wilson; from 1852 to 1856 it was the Wheeler,
+Wilson & Co., Watertown, Connecticut; and from 1856 to 1876, it was
+Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co., Bridgeport, Connecticut.
+
+The style of the head changed very little during these years (see figs.
+26 and 27). Both a table style with iron legs and a cabinet model were
+made: the head was usually mounted to stitch from left to right. In
+1861, the company introduced the famous glass presser foot, patented on
+March 5 of that year by J. L. Hyde. The presser foot was made of metal
+but shaped like an open [?] into which was slid a small glass plate, with a
+hole for the needle descent. The glass allowed the seamstress to observe
+the stitching and to produce very close-edge stitching. It remained a
+favorite of many women for years. In 1876, the new No. 8 machine was
+introduced and a new series of serial numbers was initiated. It is,
+therefore, imperative to know that the machine is one of the earlier
+style machines before using the following list of serial numbers to date
+the machines, approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-200                1851
+  201-650              1852
+  651-1449             1853
+  1450-2205            1854
+  2206-3376            1855
+  3377-5586            1856
+  5587-10177           1857
+  10178-18155          1858
+  18156-39461          1859
+  39462-64563          1860
+  64564-83119          1861
+  83120-111321         1862
+  111322-141099        1863
+  141100-181161        1864
+  181161-220318        1865
+  220319-270450        1866
+  270451-308505        1867
+  308506-357856        1868
+  357857-436722        1869
+  436723-519930        1870
+  519931-648456        1871
+  648457-822545        1872
+  822546-941735        1873
+  941736-1034563       1874
+  1034564-1318303      1875
+  1138304-1247300      1876
+
+Records of the second series of serial numbers dating from 1876 are not
+available.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 130.--WHITE SEWING MACHINE. Although the White
+sewing machines date from 1876, Thomas H. White had been busy in the
+manufacture of sewing machines for many years prior to this. White is
+known to have been associated with Barker in the manufacture of the
+Brattleboro machine and later with Grout in producing one of the several
+New England machines. In 1866 he moved to Cleveland, Ohio, and began
+manufacturing machines for sale under special trade names through
+selling organizations. In 1876, the White Sewing Machine Company was
+formed and machines were sold under the White name.
+
+The machine illustrated is a standard lockstitch machine, which would
+have been set into a sewing-machine table and operated by a treadle. The
+small handle was used to start the wheel, and thus the stitching
+operation, in the forward direction. This machine bears the serial
+number 28241 and the following patents: "Mar. 14, 1876, May 2, 1876,
+Oct. 24, 1876, Jan. 16, 1877, Mar. 20, 1877, Mar. 27, 1877," which are
+primarily the patents of D'Arcy Porter and George W. Baker.
+
+The machines of the 1870s may be dated approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-9000               1876
+  9000-27000           1877
+  27001-45000          1878
+  45001-63000          1879
+
+(Smithsonian photo 48329-H.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 131.--WILLCOX AND GIBBS SEWING MACHINE, serial
+number 296572, of about 1878. From 1857 to the turn of the century, the
+style of the Willcox and Gibbs sewing machine changed very little (fig.
+39). It was the most popular and the most reliable of the many
+chainstitch machines. In addition to the basic mechanical patents, Gibbs
+also patented the design of the sewing-machine head in 1860. In the
+specifications, he described it as an open ring set on a base or
+pedestal. The lower part of the open section supported the cloth plate.
+The design of the head, intentionally or not, formed a perfect letter G,
+the initial of the inventor. Later the machine head as a letter G was
+incorporated into the company's trademark. Additional patents were also
+granted to James Willcox for a leg and treadle design and to Charles
+Willcox for mechanical improvements.
+
+It has not been possible to secure information on records of serial
+numbers from the late 1870s through the 1920s to aid in dating machines
+of that period. For the preceding years, however, the machines may be
+dated approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-10000              1857
+  10001-20000          1858
+  20001-30000          1859
+  30001-40000          1860
+  40001-50000          1861
+  50001-60000          1862
+  60001-70000          1863
+  70001-80000          1864
+  80001-90000          1865
+  90001-100000         1866
+  100001-115000        1867
+  115001-130000        1868
+  130001-145000        1869
+  145001-160000        1870
+  160001-190127        1871
+  190128-223766        1872
+  223767-239647        1873
+  239648-253357        1874
+  253358-267879        1875
+  267880-279637        1876
+
+Although the Willcox and Gibbs company is still in existence, for the
+past several decades the company has limited itself to the production of
+specialized manufacturing machines rather than family machines.
+(Smithsonian photo 58986.)]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+<----
+
+[Illustration: Figure 132.--ILLUSTRATION from _Knights American
+Mechanical Dictionary_, vol. 3, p. 2122. The 68 sewing-machine stitches
+in use by 1882 are as follows:
+
+     SINGLE THREAD
+
+      1. Running stitch.
+
+      2. Back stitch.
+
+      3. Fast stitch.
+
+      4. Chainstitch.
+
+      5. Coiled-loop chainstitch.
+
+      6. Knitted-loop chainstitch.
+
+      7. Knotted-loop chainstitch.
+
+      8. Loop enchained by second alternate stitch.
+
+      9. Each loop locks and enchains alternate loops.
+
+     10. Staple stitch (for waxed threads only).
+
+     TWO THREADS
+
+     11. Double-needle chainstitch.
+
+     12. Double-thread chainstitch (one needle).
+
+     13. Double-looped chainstitch.
+
+     14. Chain with interlocking thread.
+
+     15. Under-thread through its own loop.
+
+     16. Two needles penetrate fabric from opposite sides.
+
+     17. Two needles working from the same side.
+
+     18. Double interlocking loop.
+
+     19. Lockstitch.
+
+     20. Twist in needle thread.
+
+     21. Double twist in needle thread.
+
+     22. Twist in shuttle thread.
+
+     23. Double twist in shuttle thread.
+
+     24. Knot stitch, shuttle thread knotted at every stitch.
+
+     25. Knot stitch, shuttle thread knotted at every other stitch.
+
+     26. Knot stitch, shuttle thread through the needle thread loop and
+         knotted around the loop.
+
+     27. Shuttle thread pulled to the surface and interlocked with
+         succeeding stitch to form an embroidery stitch.
+
+     28. Wire-lock stitch, thread locked in place with wire.
+
+     THREE THREADS
+
+     29. Two shuttles, each locking alternate loops.
+
+     30. Double loop with interlocking third thread.
+
+     31. Two shuttle threads, both locking each loop.
+
+     32. Two shuttle threads intertwining and locking each loop.
+
+     33. Single thread; loop of needle thread drawn up over the edge and
+         locked by needle at its next descent.
+
+     34. Two threads; loops of needle thread, above and below, extend to
+         the edge of the fabric, and are locked by shuttle thread.
+
+     35. Two threads; needle penetrates back from edge, its loop passed
+         to and interlocked by the needle at its next descent over the
+         edge, and this second needle-loop locked by shuttle thread.
+
+     36. Two threads; shuttle thread drawn up over the edge of the
+         fabric to the line of the needle thread.
+
+     37. Two threads; needle loop through the fabric locked by needle
+         loop over the edge and second loop locked by second thread.
+
+     38. Two threads; edge of fabric covered by shuttle thread.
+
+     39. Three threads; third thread laid around the stitch at the edge
+         of the fabric.
+
+     ORNAMENTAL STITCHES
+
+     40. Zigzag; single thread chainstitch (4).
+
+     41. Zigzag; two-thread lockstitch (19).
+
+     42. Zigzag; two-thread chainstitch (13).
+
+     43. Zigzag; chain stitch with interlocking thread (14).
+
+     44. Zigzag; double loop with interlocking third thread (30).
+
+     45. Zigzag; running stitch (1).
+
+     46. Zigzag; two needles and shuttle.
+
+     47. Zigzag; variation of 46.
+
+     48-52. Zigzag stitches for sewing straw braid.
+
+     53-62. Straight straw-braid stitches.
+
+     63-67. Special embroidery stitches.
+
+     68. Saddler's stitch.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In the _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 3, no. 5, p. 12 (1881), there were
+listed a number of then "defunct" machines and companies. Among these
+are many well-known names and little-known names for which at least one
+additional reference can be found. There are some, however, for which
+this is the only reference to date. These are: Blanchard, Babcock,
+Banner, Brown Rotary, Cottage, Cole, Duplex, Economist, Erie, Gutman,
+Hill, Hancock & Bennett, Jenks, Lockmar, La Favorite, Learned, Leggett,
+McCoy, McCardy, Medallion, McArthur & Co., Monopoly, Moreau, Mack,
+Niagra, New Cannaan, Orphean, Pride-of-the-West, Seamen & Guiness,
+Surprise, Stackpole, Shanks, Stanford, Troy, Utica, United States
+Family, Weaver, Wagner, and Williams. Some of these names may have been
+a "special" name given to machines manufactured by one of the known
+companies, but at least a few are names of machines manufactured for a
+very short time prior to 1881 about which we would like to know more.
+
+
+
+
+III. Chronological List of U.S. Sewing-Machine Patent Models in the
+Smithsonian Collections
+
+
+There are more than seven hundred sewing-machine patent models and a
+similar number of attachment models in the Smithsonian collections. Most
+of these machines were received in 1926 when the Patent Office disposed
+of its collection of hundreds of thousands of models. Prior to 1880,
+models had been required with the patent application; although the
+requirement was discontinued that year, patentees continued to furnish
+models for another decade or so. All models prior to 1836 were lost in a
+Patent Office fire of that year, but since the sewing-machine patent
+history dates from the 1840s, most of the historically important ones of
+this subject have been preserved.
+
+These models form a valuable part of the record of the invention,
+supplementing the drawings and the text of the written specifications.
+The early sewing-machine models were made to order, either by the
+inventor or a commissioned model maker. As soon as sewing machines were
+produced commercially, it was less expensive for the patentee to use a
+commercial machine of the period, to which he added his change or
+improvement, than to have a complete model constructed to order. Some of
+the commercial machines used in this way are the only examples known to
+be in existence, and as such, are of more interest in establishing the
+history of the manufactured machine than for the minor patented changes.
+
+During the period of the "Sewing Machine Combination," many patentees
+attempted to invent and patent "the different machine." This was either
+a radical change in style or an attempt to produce a far less-expensive
+type of machine. These machines were not always put into commercial
+production, but the patent models give an indication of the extent to
+which some inventors went to simplify or vary the mechanics of machine
+sewing.
+
+The following is a list of those sewing-machine patent models in the
+Smithsonian Institution collections:
+
+  _Patentee_                       |_Date_         |_Patent Number_
+                                   |               |
+  Greenough, John J.               |Feb. 21, 1842  |2,466
+  Bean, Benjamin W.                |March 4, 1843  |2,982
+  Corliss, George H.               |Dec. 27, 1843  |3,389
+  Howe, Elias, Jr.                 |Sept. 10, 1846 |4,750
+  Bachelder, John                  |May 8, 1849    |6,439
+  Wilson, Allen B.                 |Nov. 12, 1850  |7,776
+  Robinson, Frederick R.           |Dec. 10, 1850  |7,824
+  Grover & Baker                   |Feb. 11, 1851  |7,931
+  Singer, Isaac M.                 |Aug. 12, 1851  |8,294
+  Wilson, Allen B.                 |Aug. 12, 1851  |8,296
+  Wilson, Allen B.                 |June 15, 1852  |9,041
+  Miller, Charles                  |July 20, 1852  |9,139
+  Avery, Otis                      |Oct. 19, 1852  |9,338
+  Hodgkins, G.                     |Nov. 2, 1852   |9,365
+  Bradeen, J. G.                   |Nov. 2, 1852   |9,380
+  Bates, W. G.                     |Feb. 22, 1853  |9,592
+  Thompson, T. C.                  |March 29, 1853 |9,641
+  Wickersham, W.                   |April 19, 1853 |9,679
+  Johnson, W. H.                   |March 7, 1854  |10,597
+  Harrison, J., Jr.                |April 11, 1854 |10,763
+  Avery, Otis                      |May 9, 1854    |10,880
+  Singer, Isaac                    |May 30, 1854   |10,975
+  Hunt, Walter                     |June 27, 1854  |11,161
+  Roper, S. H.                     |Aug. 15, 1854  |11,531
+  Shaw, P.                         |Sept. 12, 1854 |11,680
+  Ambler, D. C.                    |Nov. 1, 1854   |11,884
+  Robertson, T. J. W.              |Nov. 28, 1854  |12,015
+  Lyon, W.                         |Dec. 12, 1854  |12,066
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |Dec. 12, 1854  |12,074
+  Ward, D. T.                      |Jan. 2, 1855   |12,146
+  Conant, J. S.                    |Jan. 16, 1855  |12,233
+  Smith, H. B.                     |Jan. 16, 1855  |12,247
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Feb. 6, 1855   |12,364
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |March 20, 1855 |12,573
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |May 1, 1855    |12,798
+  Chilcott, J., and Scrimgeour, J. |March 15, 1855 |12,856
+  Durgin, Charles A.               |May 22, 1855   |12,902
+  Bond, J., Jr.                    |May 22, 1855   |12,939
+  Singer, Isaac                    |June 12, 1855  |13,065
+  Harrison, J., Jr.                |Oct. 2, 1855   |13,616
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Oct. 9, 1855   |13,661
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Oct. 9, 1855   |13,662
+  Langdon, L. W.                   |Oct. 30, 1855  |13,727
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |Nov. 27, 1855  |13,856
+  Swingle, A.                      |Feb. 5, 1856   |14,207
+  Watson, Wm. C.                   |March 11, 1856 |14,433
+  Singer, I. M.                    |March 18, 1856 |14,475
+  Grover, W. O.                    |May 27, 1856   |14,956
+  Blodgett, S. C.                  |Aug. 5, 1856   |15,469
+  Roper, S. H.                     |Nov. 4, 1856   |16,026
+  Singer, Isaac M.                 |Nov. 4, 1856   |16,030
+  Gibbs, James E. A.               |Dec. 16, 1856  |16,234
+  Jennings, L.                     |Dec. 16, 1856  |16,237
+  Johnson, A. F.                   |Jan. 13, 1857  |16,387
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |Jan. 20, 1857  |16,434
+  Howe, Elias, Jr.                 |Jan. 20, 1857  |16,436
+  Alexander, Elisa                 |Feb. 3, 1857   |16,518
+  Gray, Joshua                     |Feb. 3, 1857   |16,566
+  Belcher, C. D.                   |March 3, 1857  |16,710
+  Pratt, S. F.                     |March 3, 1857  |16,745
+  Nettleton & Raymond              |April 14, 1857 |17,049
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |June 2, 1857   |17,427
+  Harris, Daniel                   |June 9, 1857   |17,508
+  Harris, Daniel                   |June 16, 1857  |17,571
+  Sage, William                    |June 30, 1857  |17,717
+  Lathbury, E. T.                  |July 7, 1857   |17,744
+  Wickersham, W.                   |Aug. 25, 1857  |18,068
+  Wickersham, W.                   |Aug. 25, 1857  |18,069
+  Behn, Henry                      |Aug. 25, 1857  |18,071
+  Nettleton, Wm. H., and           |Oct. 6, 1857   |18,350
+    Raymond, Charles               |               |
+  Roper, S. H.                     |Oct. 27, 1857  |18,522
+  Fetter, George                   |Dec. 1, 1857   |18,793
+  Watson, W. C.                    |Dec. 8, 1857   |18,834
+  Behn, H.                         |Dec. 15, 1857  |18,880
+  Hubbard, George W.               |Dec. 22, 1857  |18,904
+  Lazelle, W. H.                   |Dec. 22, 1857  |18,915
+  Clark, David W.                  |Jan. 5, 1858   |19,015
+  Fetter, George                   |Jan. 5, 1858   |19,059
+  Clark, David W.                  |Jan. 12, 1858  |19,072
+  Clark, David W.                  |Jan. 19, 1858  |19,129
+  Dimmock, Martial, and            |Jan. 19, 1858  |19,135
+    Rixford, Nathan                |               |
+  Boyd, A. H.                      |Jan. 19, 1858  |19,171
+  Angell, Benjamin J.              |Feb. 9, 1858   |19,285
+  Clark, David W.                  |Feb. 23, 1858  |19,409
+  Raymond, Charles                 |March 9, 1858  |19,612
+  Hendrick, Joseph E.              |March 16, 1858 |19,660
+  Parker, Sidney                   |March 16, 1858 |19,662
+  Gray, Joshua                     |March 16, 1858 |19,665
+  Coates, F. S.                    |March 23, 1858 |19,684
+  Clark, David W.                  |March 23, 1858 |19,732
+  Reynolds, O. S.                  |March 30, 1858 |19,793
+  Bartholf, Abraham                |April 6, 1858  |19,823
+  Savage, E.                       |April 6, 1858  |19,876
+  Atwood, J. E., J. C., and O.     |April 13, 1858 |19,903
+  Bosworth, Chas. F.               |April 20, 1858 |19,979
+  Clark, David W.                  |June 8, 1858   |20,481
+  Herron, A. C.                    |June 15, 1858  |20,557
+  Johnson, A. F.                   |June 22, 1858  |20,686
+  Barnes, W. T.                    |June 29, 1858  |20,688
+  Smith, E. H.                     |June 29, 1858  |20,739
+  West, H. B., and                 |June 29, 1858  |20,753
+    Willson, H. F.                 |               |
+  Miller, W.                       |June 29, 1858  |20,763
+  Blake, Lyman R.                  |July 6, 1858   |20,775
+  Carpenter, Lunan                 |July 27, 1858  |20,990
+  Moore, Charles                   |July 27, 1858  |21,015
+  Smith, E. H.                     |Aug. 3, 1858   |21,089
+  Wheeler and Carpenter            |Aug. 3, 1858   |21,100
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |Aug. 10, 1858  |21,129
+  Uhlinger, W. P.                  |Aug. 17, 1858  |21,224
+  Clark, David W.                  |Aug. 31, 1858  |21,322
+  Blodgett, S. C.                  |Sept. 7, 1858  |21,465
+  Hubbard, G. W.                   |Sept. 14, 1858 |21,537
+  Hendrick, J. E.                  |Oct. 5, 1858   |21,722
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |Oct. 12, 1858  |21,751
+  Sangster, Amos. W.               |Oct. 26, 1858  |21,929
+  Avery, O. and Z. W.              |Nov. 9, 1858   |22,007
+  Spencer and Lamb                 |Nov. 23, 1858  |22,137
+  Perry, James                     |Nov. 23, 1858  |22,148
+  Burnet and Broderick             |Nov. 30, 1858  |22,160
+  Hook, Albert H.                  |Nov. 30, 1858  |22,179
+  Raymond, Charles                 |Nov. 30, 1858  |22,220
+  Bishop, H. H.                    |Dec. 7, 1858   |22,226
+  Pratt, S. F.                     |Dec. 7, 1858   |22,240
+  Atwood, J. E.                    |Dec. 14, 1858  |22,273
+  Fosket, W. A., and               |Jan. 25, 1859  |22,719
+    Savage, Elliot                 |               |
+  Snyder, W.                       |Feb. 15, 1859  |22,987
+  Clark, D. W.                     |May 3, 1859    |23,823
+  Boyd, A. H.                      |May 17, 1859   |24,003
+  Gray, Joshua                     |May 17, 1859   |24,022
+  Hook, Albert H.                  |May 17, 1859   |24,027
+  Spencer, James C.                |May 17, 1859   |24,061
+  Carhart, Peter S.                |May 24, 1859   |24,098
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |June 14, 1859  |24,395
+  Goodwyn, H. H.                   |June 21, 1859  |24,455
+  Grout, William                   |July 5, 1859   |24,629
+  Hensel, George                   |July 12, 1859  |24,737
+  Parker, Sidney                   |July 12, 1859  |24,780
+  Hall, William                    |July 26, 1859  |24,870
+  Hayden, H. W.                    |Aug. 2, 1859   |24,937
+  Kelsey, D.                       |Aug. 2, 1859   |24,939
+  Emswiler, J. B.                  |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,002
+  Farr, C. N.                      |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,004
+  Harrison, James, Jr.             |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,013
+  Tapley, G. S.                    |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,059
+  Barnes, W. T.                    |Aug. 16, 1859  |25,084
+  Booth, Ezekial                   |Aug. 16, 1859  |25,087
+  Hinkley, J.                      |Aug. 23, 1859  |25,231
+  Harrison, James, Jr.             |Aug. 30, 1859  |25,262
+  Buell, J. S.                     |Sept. 13, 1859 |25,381
+  Vogel, Kasimir                   |Oct. 4, 1859   |25,692
+  Woodward, F. G.                  |Oct. 11, 1859  |25,782
+  Barrett, O. D.                   |Oct. 11, 1859  |25,785
+  Barnes, William T.               |Oct. 25, 1859  |25,876
+  Sawyer, Irwin, and Alsop, T.     |Oct. 25, 1859  |25,918
+  Budlong, William G.              |Nov. 1, 1859   |25,946
+  Fosket, William A.,              |Nov. 1, 1859   |25,963
+    and Savage, E.                 |               |
+  Hicks, W. C.                     |Nov. 8, 1859   |26,035
+  Scofield, C.                     |Nov. 8, 1859   |26,059
+  Pearson, William                 |Nov. 22, 1859  |26,201
+  McCurdy, James S.                |Nov. 22, 1859  |26,234
+  Clark, Edwin                     |Dec. 6, 1859   |26,336
+  Dickinson, C. W.                 |Dec. 6, 1859   |26,346
+  Miller, Charles                  |Dec. 13, 1859  |26,462
+  Rowe, Jas.                       |Dec. 27, 1859  |26,638
+  Johnson, A. F.                   |Jan. 24, 1860  |26,948
+  Thomson, J.                      |Feb. 7, 1860   |27,082
+  Juengst, George                  |Feb. 14, 1860  |27,132
+  Davis, Job A.                    |Feb. 21, 1860  |27,208
+  Gibbs, James E. A.               |Feb. 21, 1860  |27,214
+  Rowe, James                      |Feb. 21, 1860  |27,260
+  Dopp, H. W.                      |Feb. 28, 1860  |27,279
+  Paine, A. R.                     |March 6, 1860  |27,412
+  Smalley, J.                      |March 20, 1860 |27,577
+  Newlove, T.                      |April 3, 1860  |27,761
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |May 1, 1860    |28,097
+  Arnold, G. B.                    |May 8, 1860    |28,139
+  Bean, E. E.                      |May 8, 1860    |28,144
+  Holly, Birdsill                  |May 8, 1860    |28,176
+  Chamberlain, J. N.               |May 29, 1860   |28,452
+  Ruddick, H.                      |May 29, 1860   |28,538
+  Scofield, Chas., and             |June 5, 1860   |28,610
+    Rice, Clarke                   |               |
+  Smith, Wilson H.                 |June 19, 1860  |28,785
+  Rose, I. M.                      |June 19, 1860  |28,814
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |June 26, 1860  |28,851
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |July 3, 1860   |28,993
+  Mueller, H.                      |July 3, 1860   |28,996
+  Sutton, Wm. A.                   |July 17, 1860  |29,202
+  Hicks, W. C.                     |July 24, 1860  |29,268
+  Tracy, D.                        |Sept. 11, 1860 |30,012
+  Washburn, T. S.                  |Sept. 11, 1860 |30,031
+  Arnold, G. B., and A.            |Sept. 25, 1860 |30,112
+  Leavitt, Rufus                   |Nov. 13, 1860  |30,634
+  Payne, R. S.                     |Nov. 13, 1860  |30,641
+  Heyer, Frederick                 |Nov. 27, 1860  |30,731
+  Hardie, J. W.                    |Dec. 4, 1860   |30,854
+  Earle, T.                        |Jan. 22, 1861  |31,156
+  Bruen, J. T.                     |Jan. 22, 1861  |31,208
+  Smith, J. M.                     |Feb. 5, 1861   |31,334
+  Smith, L. H.                     |Feb. 12, 1861  |31,411
+  Rice, Quartus                    |Feb. 12, 1861  |31,429
+  Rose, I. M.                      |March 5, 1861  |31,628
+  Ross, Noble G.                   |March 26, 1861 |31,829
+  Boyd, A. H.                      |April 2, 1861  |31,864
+  Mallary, G. H.                   |April 2, 1861  |31,897
+  Shaw, H. L.                      |April 9, 1861  |32,007
+  Burr, Theodore                   |April 9, 1861  |32,023
+  Jones, William, and              |May 14, 1861   |32,297
+    Haughian, P.                   |               |
+  Wilder, M. G.                    |May 14, 1861   |32,323
+  Smith, Lewis H.                  |May 21, 1861   |32,385
+  Stoakes, J. W.                   |May 28, 1861   |32,456
+  Fuller, William M.               |June 4, 1861   |32,496
+  Norton, B. F.                    |July 9, 1861   |32,782
+  Raymond, C.                      |July 9, 1861   |32,785
+  Raymond, Charles                 |July 30, 1861  |32,925
+  Case, G. F.                      |Aug. 13, 1861  |33,029
+  Hodgkins, C.                     |Aug. 20, 1861  |33,085
+  Marble, F. E.                    |Oct. 8, 1861   |33,439
+  Mann, Charles                    |Oct. 22, 1861  |33,556
+  Grover, W. O.                    |Nov. 26, 1861  |33,778
+  Hendrickson, E. M.               |Feb. 4, 1862   |34,330
+  Derocquigny, A. C. F.,           |March 25, 1862 |34,748
+    Gance, D., and Hanzo, L.       |               |
+  Thompson, R.                     |April 8, 1862  |34,926
+  Smith, John C.                   |April 15, 1862 |34,988
+  Palmer, Aaron                    |May 13, 1862   |35,252
+  Hall, W. S.                      |Aug. 5, 1862   |36,084
+  McCurdy, James S.                |Aug. 19, 1862  |36,256
+  Grover, W. O.                    |Sept. 9, 1862  |36,405
+  Wilkins, J. N.                   |Sept. 30, 1862 |36,591
+  Humphrey, D. W. G.               |Oct. 7, 1862   |36,617
+  House, H. A., and J. A.          |Nov. 11, 1862  |36,932
+  Crossby, C. O., and Kellogg, H.  |Dec. 2, 1862   |37,033
+  Shaw, A. B.                      |Dec. 16, 1862  |37,202
+  Pipo, John A.                    |Jan. 27, 1863  |37,550
+  Hollowell, J. G.                 |Feb. 10, 1863  |37,624
+  Howe, A. B.                      |March 17, 1863 |37,913
+  Weitling, W.                     |March 17, 1863 |37,931
+  Shaw & Clark                     |April 21, 1863 |38,246
+  Baldwin, Cyrus W.                |April 28, 1863 |38,276
+  Grote, F. W.                     |May 5, 1863    |38,447
+  Palmer, C. H.                    |May 5, 1863    |38,450
+  Mack, W. A.                      |May 19, 1863   |38,592
+  Bosworth, C. F.                  |June 9, 1863   |38,807
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |June 16, 1863  |38,931
+  Langdon, Leander W.              |July 14, 1863  |39,256
+  House, J. A., and H.A.           |Aug. 4, 1863   |39,442-39,445
+    (4 patents on 1 machine)       |               |
+  Tracy and Hobbs                  |Sept. 15, 1863 |40,000
+  Wagener, Jeptha A.               |Oct. 13, 1863  |40,296
+  Rehfuss, G.                      |Oct. 13, 1863  |40,311
+  Lathrop, Lebbeus W.,             |Oct. 27, 1863  |40,446
+    and de Sanno, Wm. P.           |               |
+  Heyer, W. D.                     |Nov. 17, 1863  |40,622
+  Simmons, A. G., and Scofield, C. |March 1, 1864  |41,790
+  Guinness, W. S.                  |March 15, 1864 |41,916
+  Willcox, Charles H.              |March 22, 1864 |42,036
+    (4 patents on 1 machine)       |Aug. 9, 1864   |43,819
+                                   |Sept. 27, 1864 |44,490
+                                   |Sept. 27, 1864 |44,491
+  Sibley, J. J.                    |March 29, 1864 |42,117
+  Thompson, R.                     |April 19, 1864 |42,449
+  McKay & Blake                    |May 24, 1864   |42,916
+  Chittenden, H. H.                |June 28, 1864  |43,289
+  Hall, Luther                     |July 5, 1864   |43,404
+  Planer, Louis                    |Aug. 23, 1864  |43,927
+  Atwater, B.                      |Sept. 6, 1864  |44,063
+  Dale, John D.                    |Oct. 11, 1864  |44,686
+  Gritzner, M. C.                  |Oct. 18, 1864  |44,720
+  Smith, DeWitt C.                 |Dec. 20, 1864  |45,528
+  Weitling, W.                     |Jan. 3, 1865   |45,777
+  Cadwell, C.                      |Jan. 24, 1865  |45,972
+  Bartlett, J. W.                  |Jan. 31, 1865  |46,064
+  McCurdy, James S.                |Feb. 7, 1865   |46,303
+  Lamb, Thomas, and                |Aug. 15, 1865  |49,421
+    Allen, John                    |               |
+  Humphrey, D. W. G.               |Aug. 29, 1865  |49,627
+  Tarbox, John N.                  |Sept. 5, 1865  |49,803
+  Crosby, C. O.                    |Oct. 3, 1865   |50,225
+  Cajar, E.                        |Oct. 3, 1865   |50,299
+  Hart, William                    |Oct. 17, 1865  |50,469
+  Hecht, A.                        |Oct. 17, 1865  |50,473
+  Emerson, John                    |Nov. 14, 1865  |50,989
+  Keats, John, and Clark, Wm. S.   |Nov. 14, 1865  |50,995
+  Rehfuss, George                  |Nov. 21, 1865  |51,086
+  Eickemeyer, Rudolf               |Feb. 20, 1866  |52,698
+  Hanlon, John                     |Feb. 27, 1866  |52,847
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |April 3, 1866  |53,743
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |May 15, 1866   |54,670
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |May 15, 1866   |54,671
+  Goodspeed, G. N.                 |May 15, 1866   |54,816
+  Hayes, J.                        |May 22, 1866   |55,029
+  McCloskey, John                  |June 19, 1866  |55,688
+  House, J. A. and H. A.           |June 26, 1866  |55,865
+  Tucker, Joseph C.                |July 24, 1866  |56,641
+  Warth, Albin                     |July 24, 1866  |56,646
+  Destouy, A.                      |July 31, 1866  |56,729
+  Schwalback, M.                   |July 31, 1866  |56,805
+  Cately, William H.               |Aug. 7, 1866   |56,902
+  Piper, D. B.                     |Aug. 7, 1866   |56,990
+  Leyden, Austin                   |Aug. 14, 1866  |57,157
+  Clements, James M.               |Aug. 21, 1866  |57,451
+  Davis, Job A.                    |Oct. 9, 1866   |58,614
+  Rodier, Peter                    |Nov. 13, 1866  |59,659
+  Duchemin, Wm.                    |Nov. 13, 1866  |59,715
+  Kilbourn, E. E.                  |Nov. 20, 1866  |59,746
+  Reed, T. K.                      |Dec. 4, 1866   |60,241
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Dec. 11, 1866  |60,433
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |Jan. 1, 1867   |60,669
+  Rehfuss, G.                      |Jan. 8, 1867   |61,102
+  Singer, Isaac                    |Jan. 15, 1867  |61,270
+  Cajar, Emil                      |Feb. 5, 1867   |61,711
+  Craige, E. H.                    |Feb. 19, 1867  |62,186
+  Reed, T. K.                      |Feb. 19, 1867  |62,287
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |March 5, 1867  |62,520
+  Fuller, H. W.                    |March 19, 1867 |63,033
+  Stannard, M.                     |April 23, 1867 |64,184
+  Craige, E. H.                    |Aug. 13, 1867  |67,635
+  Doll, Arnold                     |Sept. 3, 1867  |68,420
+  Bruen, L. B.                     |Sept. 17, 1867 |68,839
+  Hodgkins, C.                     |Oct. 8, 1867   |69,666
+  Baker, G. W.                     |Oct. 29, 1867  |70,152
+  Cadwell, Caleb                   |Nov. 19, 1867  |71,131
+  Fanning, J.                      |Dec. 31, 1867  |72,829
+  Warth, Albin                     |Jan. 7, 1868   |73,064
+  Rehfuss, George                  |Jan. 7, 1868   |73,119
+  Cornely, E.                      |Jan. 28, 1868  |73,696
+  Blake, L. R.                     |Feb. 11, 1868  |74,289
+  Fales, J. F.                     |Feb. 11, 1868  |74,328
+  Jencks, G. L.                    |Feb. 18, 1868  |74,694
+  Clark, Edwin E.                  |Feb. 25, 1868  |74,751
+  Halbert, A. W.                   |March 31, 1868 |76,076
+  Gritzner, M. C.                  |April 7, 1868  |76,323
+  Bartlett, Joseph W.              |April 7, 1868  |76,385
+  Waterbury, Enos                  |June 16, 1868  |79,037
+  Cole, W. H.                      |June 30, 1868  |79,447
+  Lamson, Henry P.                 |July 7, 1868   |79,579
+  French, S.                       |July 28, 1868  |80,345
+  Stein, M. J.                     |Sept. 8, 1868  |81,956
+  Hancock, H. J.                   |Oct. 27, 1868  |83,492
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |Nov. 3, 1868   |83,592
+  Benedict, C. P.                  |Nov. 3, 1868   |83,596
+  Bonnaz, A.                       |Nov. 10, 1868  |83,909
+  Bonnaz, A.                       |Nov. 10, 1868  |83,910
+  Elliott, F.                      |Jan. 19, 1869  |85,918
+  Canfield, F. P.                  |Jan. 19, 1869  |86,057
+  Arnold B.                        |Jan. 26, 1869  |86,121
+  Jones, John                      |Jan. 26, 1869  |86,163
+  Russell, W. W.                   |Feb. 9, 1869   |86,695
+  Eldridge, G. W.                  |March 2, 1869  |87,331
+  House, J. A. and H. A.           |March 2, 1869  |87,338
+  Gird, E. D.                      |March 9, 1869  |87,559
+  Carpenter, William               |March 9, 1869  |87,633
+  Dunbar, C. F.                    |March 30, 1869 |88,282
+  McLean, J. N.                    |March 30, 1869 |88,499
+  Billings, C. E.                  |April 6, 1869  |88,603
+  Winter, Wm.                      |April 13, 1869 |88,936
+  Tittman, A.                      |April 20, 1869 |89,093
+  Swartwout, H. L.                 |April 27, 1869 |89,357
+  Lyons, Lucius                    |April 27, 1869 |89,489
+  Crosby, C. O.                    |May 25, 1869   |90,507
+  Gutmann, J.                      |May 25, 1869   |90,528
+  Duchemin, William                |June 8, 1869   |91,101
+  Adams, John Q.                   |July 6, 1869   |92,138
+  Bond, Joseph, Jr.                |Aug. 10, 1869  |93,588
+  Hoffman, Geo. W.                 |Aug. 24, 1869  |94,112
+  Brown, John H.                   |Aug. 31, 1869  |94,389
+  Heery, Luke                      |Sept. 14, 1869 |94,740
+  Gray, Joshua                     |Oct. 5, 1869   |95,581
+  Smith, E. H.                     |Oct. 26, 1869  |96,160
+  Page, Chas.                      |Nov. 2, 1869   |96,343
+  Lyon, Lucius                     |Nov. 9, 1869   |96,713
+  Clever, P. J.                    |Nov. 16, 1869  |96,886
+  Mills, Daniel                    |Nov. 16, 1869  |96,944
+  Woodruff, Geo. B., and           |Nov. 16, 1869  |97,014
+    Browning, Geo.                 |               |
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |Dec. 7, 1869   |97,518
+  Hurtu, Auguste J., and           |Dec. 21, 1869  |98,064
+    Hautin, Victor J.              |               |
+  Lamb, Thomas                     |Dec. 28, 1869  |98,390
+  Rudolph, B.                      |Feb. 1, 1870   |99,481
+  Porter, Alonzo                   |Feb. 8, 1870   |99,704
+  Smith, W. T.                     |Feb. 8, 1870   |99,743
+  Meyers, N.                       |Feb. 15, 1870  |99,783
+  Grover, W. O.                    |Feb. 22, 1870  |100,139
+  Spoehr, F.                       |April 12, 1870 |101,779
+  Kendall, George F.               |April 12, 1870 |101,887
+  Cooney, W.                       |April 26, 1870 |102,226
+  Brown, F. H.                     |April 26, 1870 |102,366
+  Howard E., and Jackson, W. H.    |May 31, 1870   |103,745
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |June 14, 1870  |104,247
+  Henriksen, H. P.                 |June 21, 1870  |104,590
+  Martine, Charles F.              |June 21, 1870  |104,612
+  Nasch, Isidor                    |June 21, 1870  |104,630
+  Hall, L.                         |July 12, 1870  |105,329
+  Lyon, Lucius                     |July 26, 1870  |105,820
+  Bennor, Joseph                   |Aug. 9, 1870   |106,249
+  Barnes, M. M.                    |Aug. 16, 1870  |106,307
+  Leslie, Arthur M.                |Oct. 18, 1870  |108,492
+  Rayer, William A.,and            |Nov. 1, 1870   |108,827
+    Lincoln, Wm. S.                |               |
+  Landfear, Wm. R.                 |Nov. 22, 1870  |109,427
+  Parham, Charles                  |Nov. 22, 1870  |109,443
+  Lamb, I. W.                      |Nov. 29, 1870  |109,632
+  Moreau, Eugene                   |Jan. 3, 1871   |110,669
+  Robinson, Charles E.             |Jan. 3, 1871   |110,790
+  Goodyear, Charles, Jr.           |Jan. 24, 1871  |111,197
+  Stevens, G., and Hendy, J.       |Jan. 31, 1871  |111,488
+  Carpenter, Mary P.               |Feb. 21, 1871  |112,016
+  Hancock, Henry J.                |Feb. 21, 1871  |112,033
+  Sidenberg, W.                    |March 14, 1871 |112,745
+  Chase, M.                        |April 11, 1871 |113,498
+  Stein, M. J.                     |April 11, 1871 |113,593
+  Tate, Wm. J.                     |April 11, 1871 |113,704
+  House, J. A. and H. A.           |May 2, 1871    |114,294
+  Sidenberg, W.                    |May 23, 1871   |115,117
+  Beuttels, Charles                |May 23, 1871   |115,155
+  Thompson, G.                     |May 23, 1871   |115,255
+  Willcox and Carleton             |June 27, 1871  |116,521
+    (3 patents on 1 machine)       |               |116,522
+                                   |               |116,523
+  Willcox and Carleton             |July 4, 1871   |116,783
+  Goodyear, Charles, Jr.           |July 11, 1871  |116,947
+  Necker, Carl                     |July 18, 1871  |117,101
+  Pitt, James; Joseph;             |July 18, 1871  |117,203
+    Edward; and Wm.                |               |
+  Jones, John T.                   |Aug. 1, 1871   |117,640
+  West, E. P.                      |Aug. 1, 1871   |117,708
+  Jones, Solomon                   |Aug. 29, 1871  |118,537
+    (2 patents on 1 machine)       |               |118,538
+  Lamb, Thomas                     |Sept. 5, 1871  |118,728
+  Bosworth, C. F.                  |Jan. 9, 1872   |122,555
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |Jan. 9, 1872   |122,673
+  Fish, Warren L.                  |Feb. 13, 1872  |123,625
+  Palmer, C. H.                    |March 19, 1872 |124,694
+  Baker, G. W.                     |April 9, 1872  |125,374
+  Gordon and Kinert                |April 16, 1872 |125,807
+  Howard, C. W.                    |April 23, 1872 |126,056
+    (second machine)               |               |126,057
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |May 14, 1872   |126,845
+  Beckwith, W. G.                  |May 21, 1872   |126,921
+  Bouscay, Eloi, Jr.               |May 28, 1872   |127,145
+  Braundbeck, E.                   |June 11, 1872  |127,675
+  Heidenthal, W.                   |June 11, 1872  |127,765
+  Cleminshaw, S.                   |June 25, 1872  |128,363
+  Wardwell, S. W., Jr.             |July 2, 1872   |128,684
+  Springer, W. A.                  |July 9, 1872   |128,919
+  Fanning, John                    |July 16, 1872  |129,013
+  Parks, Volney                    |July 30, 1872  |129,981
+  Baker, G. W.                     |July 30, 1872  |130,005
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |Aug. 6, 1872   |130,324
+  McClure, A. T.                   |Aug. 13, 1872  |130,385
+  Ashe, Robert                     |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,555
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,557
+  West, Elliot P.                  |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,674
+  Happe, J., and Newman, W.        |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,715
+  Hinds, Jesse L.                  |Sept. 10, 1872 |131,166
+  Brown, F. H.                     |Oct. 1, 1872   |131,735
+  Beckwith, W. G.                  |Nov. 26, 1872  |133,351
+  Turner, S. S.                    |Dec. 3, 1872   |133,553
+  Chandler, R.                     |Dec. 10, 1872  |133,757
+  Venner, O.                       |Dec. 10, 1872  |133,814
+  Duchemin, W.                     |Jan. 21, 1873  |135,032
+  Sheffield, G. V.                 |Jan. 21, 1873  |135,047
+  Parham, Charles                  |Feb. 4, 1873   |135,579
+  Goodes, E. A.                    |March 11, 1873 |136,718
+  Tittman, A.                      |March 11, 1873 |136,792
+  Happe, J., and Newman, W.        |March 25, 1873 |137,199
+  Ragan, Daniel                    |April 1, 1873  |137,321
+  O'Neil, John                     |April 8, 1873  |137,618
+  Kallmeyer, G.                    |April 8, 1873  |137,689
+  Ross, J. G., and Miller, T. L.   |May 13, 1873   |138,764
+  West, Elliott P.                 |May 13, 1873   |138,772
+  Koch and Brass                   |May 13, 1873   |138,898
+  Arnold, B.                       |May 20, 1873   |138,981
+  Arnold, B.                       |May 20, 1873   |138,982
+  Lathrop, L. W.                   |May 20, 1873   |139,067
+  Chandler, Rufus                  |May 27, 1873   |139,368
+  Jones, S. H.                     |July 8, 1873   |140,631
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |July 22, 1873  |141,088
+  Wardwell, S. W., Jr.             |July 29, 1873  |141,245
+  Stewart, J., Jr.                 |July 29, 1873  |141,397
+  Walker, William                  |July 29, 1873  |141,407
+  Blanchard, Helen A.              |Aug. 19, 1873  |141,987
+  Springer, W. A.                  |Aug. 26, 1873  |142,290
+  Cushman, C. S.                   |Sept. 2, 1873  |142,442
+  Porter, D. A.                    |Nov. 25, 1873  |144,864
+  Koch & Brass                     |Dec. 2, 1873   |145,215
+  Richardson, E. F.                |Dec. 16, 1873  |145,687
+  Weber, Theo. A.                  |Dec. 23, 1873  |145,823
+  Scribner, Benjamin, Jr.          |Jan. 13, 1874  |146,483
+  Black, Samuel S.                 |Jan. 20, 1874  |146,642
+  Taylor, F. B.                    |Jan. 20, 1874  |146,721
+  Richardson, Everett P.           |Jan. 27, 1874  |146,948
+  Muir, William                    |Feb. 3, 1874   |147,152
+  Goodes, E. A.                    |Feb. 10, 1874  |147,387
+  Springer, Wm. A.                 |Feb. 10, 1874  |147,441
+  True, C. B.                      |March 10, 1874 |148,336
+  Wardwell, S. W., Jr.             |March 10, 1874 |148,339
+  Shorey, Samuel W.                |March 17, 1874 |148,765
+  Smith, James H.                  |March 24, 1874 |148,902
+  Horr, Addison D.                 |April 21, 1874 |149,862
+  Page, Chas.                      |May 5, 1874    |150,479
+  Crane, Thomas                    |May 5, 1874    |150,532
+  Buhr, J.                         |May 26, 1874   |151,272
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |June 9, 1874   |151,801
+  Wensley, James                   |June 16, 1874  |152,055
+  Dinsmore, A. S., and             |June 30, 1874  |152,618
+    Carter, John T.                |               |
+  Speirs, J.                       |July 7, 1874   |152,813
+  Brewer, A. G.                    |July 14, 1874  |152,894
+  Baglin, Wm.                      |Aug. 18, 1874  |154,113
+  Howard, E. L.                    |Aug. 25, 1874  |154,485
+  Landfear, Wm. R.                 |Sept. 22, 1874 |155,193
+  Drake, Ellis                     |Oct. 13, 1874  |155,932
+  Barney, Samuel C.                |Oct. 20, 1874  |156,119
+  Moreau, Eugene                   |Oct. 20, 1874  |156,171
+  Huntington, Thomas S.            |Dec. 29, 1874  |158,214
+  Bartlett and Plant               |Jan. 26, 1875  |159,065
+  Garland, H. P.                   |Feb. 16, 1875  |159,812
+  Dinsmore, Alfred S.              |March 9, 1875  |160,512
+  McCloskey, John                  |March 30, 1875 |161,534
+  Schmidt, Albert E.               |April 27, 1875 |162,697
+  Darling & Darling                |May 25, 1875   |163,639
+  Richardson, Everett P.           |July 13, 1875  |165,506
+  Whitehill, Robert                |July 27, 1875  |166,172
+  Weber, Theodore A.               |Aug. 3, 1875   |166,236
+  Pearson, Wm.                     |Aug. 17, 1875  |166,805
+  Beckwith, William G.             |Sept. 7, 1875  |167,382
+  Hall, John S.                    |Oct. 11, 1875  |168,637
+  Jones, J. T.                     |Oct. 26, 1875  |169,106
+  Garland, H. P.                   |Oct. 26, 1875  |169,163
+  Wormald & Dobson                 |Nov. 9, 1875   |169,881
+  Rose, R. M.                      |Nov. 30, 1875  |170,596
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |Dec. 7, 1875   |170,741
+  Keith, T. K.                     |Dec. 14, 1875  |170,955
+  Leavitte, Albert                 |Dec. 14, 1875  |171,147
+  Toll, Charles F.                 |Dec. 14, 1875  |171,193
+  Keats, Greenwood, & Keats        |Dec. 28, 1875  |171,622
+  Thayer, Augustus                 |Jan. 11, 1876  |172,205
+  Frese, B.                        |Jan. 18, 1876  |172,308
+  Pearson, William                 |Jan. 18, 1876  |172,478
+  Sawyer & Esty                    |Feb. 29, 1876  |174,159
+  Porter & Baker                   |March 14, 1876 |174,703
+  Walker, William                  |April 11, 1876 |176,101
+  Upson, L. A.                     |April 18, 1876 |176,153
+  Witherspoon, S. A.               |April 18, 1876 |176,211
+  Rice, T. M.                      |April 25, 1876 |176,686
+  Murphy, E.                       |May 2, 1876    |176,880
+  Bradford, E. F., and             |May 16, 1876   |177,371
+    Pierce, V. R.                  |               |
+  Applegate & Webb                 |May 25, 1876   |177,784
+  Sullivan, John J.                |June 27, 1876  |179,232
+  Appleton, C. J., and             |July 4, 1876   |179,440
+    Sibley, J. J.                  |               |
+  Marin, Chas.                     |July 11, 1876  |179,709
+  Gullransen, P. E., and           |July 25, 1876  |180,225
+    Rettinger, J. C.               |               |
+  Butcher, Joseph                  |Aug. 1, 1876   |180,542
+  Jackson, William                 |Sept. 5, 1876  |181,941
+  Barton, Kate C.                  |Sept. 12, 1876 |182,096
+  Eickemeyer, Rudolf               |Sept. 12, 1876 |182,182
+  Webster, W.                      |Sept. 12, 1876 |182,249
+  Knoch, C. F.                     |Oct. 17, 1876  |183,400
+  Cushman, C. S.                   |Nov. 21, 1876  |184,594
+  Harris, David                    |Dec. 12, 1876  |185,228
+  Wood, J.                         |Dec. 26, 1876  |185,811
+  Oram, Henry                      |Jan. 2, 1877   |185,952
+  Palmer, Frank L.                 |Jan. 2, 1877   |185,954
+  Hall, John S.                    |Feb. 6, 1877   |187,006
+  Palmateer, William A.            |Feb. 20, 1877  |187,479
+  Cummins, William G.              |Feb. 27, 1877  |187,822
+  Esty, William                    |Feb. 27, 1877  |187,837
+  Leavitt & Drew                   |Feb. 27, 1877  |187,874
+  Henriksen, H. P.                 |March 20, 1877 |188,515
+  McKay, Gordon                    |March 27, 1877 |188,809
+  Follett, J. L.                   |April 10, 1877 |189,446
+  Bond, James, Jr.                 |April 17, 1877 |189,599
+  Jacob, F.                        |April 24, 1877 |190,047
+  Beck, A.                         |May 1, 1877    |190,184
+  Hallett, H. H.                   |June 5, 1877   |191,584
+  Randel, William                  |June 12, 1877  |192,008
+  Corbett, E., and Harlow, C. F.   |July 3, 1877   |192,568
+  Brown, F. H.                     |July 24, 1877  |193,477
+  Melhuish, R. M.                  |Aug. 28, 1877  |194,610
+  Atwood, K. C.                    |Sept. 4, 1877  |194,759
+  Macaulay, F. A.                  |Oct. 9, 1877   |195,939
+  Dimond, George H.                |Oct. 16, 1877  |196,198
+  Sedmihradsky, A. J.              |Oct. 23, 1877  |196,486
+  Keith, J.                        |Nov. 6, 1877   |196,809
+  Beck, August                     |Nov. 6, 1877   |196,863
+  Keith, T. H.                     |Nov. 6, 1877   |196,909
+  Keats, John                      |Dec. 11, 1877  |198,120
+  Briggs, Thomas                   |Jan. 1, 1878   |198,790
+  Corey, J. W.                     |Jan. 8, 1878   |198,970
+  Howard, T. S. L.                 |Jan. 15, 1878  |199,206
+  Bosworth, C. F.                  |Jan. 22, 1878  |199,500
+  Dancel, C.                       |Jan. 29, 1878  |199,802
+  Pearson, M. H.                   |Feb. 5, 1878   |199,991
+  Morrell, Robert W.;              |April 23, 1878 |202,857
+    Parkinson, Thomas; and         |               |
+    Parkinson, Joseph              |               |
+  Barcellos, D.                    |April 30, 1878 |203,102
+  Elderfield, F. D.                |June 4, 1878   |204,429
+  Heberling, J.                    |June 4, 1878   |204,604
+  Beukler, William                 |June 11, 1878  |204,704
+  Varicas, L.                      |June 11, 1878  |204,864
+  Stewart, W. T.                   |July 2, 1878   |205,698
+  House, Jas. A.                   |July 23, 1878  |206,239
+  Martin, W., Jr.; Dawson,  D. R.; |Aug. 6, 1878   |206,743
+    and Orchar, R.                 |               |
+  Conklin, N. A.                   |Aug. 6, 1878   |206,774
+  Wollenberg, H., and Priesner, J. |Aug. 6, 1878   |206,848
+  Young, E. S., and Dimond, G. H.  |Aug. 13, 1878  |206,992
+  Hoffman, Clara P., and           |Aug. 13, 1878  |207,035
+    Meyers, Nicholas               |               |
+  Wensley, Jas.                    |Aug. 20, 1878  |207,230
+  Dimond, G. H.                    |Aug. 27, 1878  |207,400
+  Steward, A.                      |Aug. 27, 1878  |207,454
+  Wood, Richard G.                 |Sept. 10, 1878 |207,928
+  McCombs, Geo. F.                 |Sept. 24, 1878 |208,407
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |Oct. 22, 1878  |209,126
+  Wells, W. W.                     |Nov. 12, 1878  |209,843
+  Bayley, C. H.                    |Feb. 11, 1879  |212,122
+  Parmenter, Charles O.            |Feb. 18, 1879  |212,495
+  Ingalls, N., Jr.                 |Feb. 25, 1879  |212,602
+  Cleminshaw, S.                   |March 18, 1879 |213,391
+  Webb, T., and Heartfield, C. H.  |March 25, 1879 |213,537
+  Borton, Stockton                 |April 8, 1879  |214,089
+  Henriksen, H. P.                 |May 20, 1879   |215,615
+  Bland, Henry                     |June 3, 1879   |216,016
+  Morrison, T. W.                  |June 10, 1879  |216,289
+  Bosworth, Charles F.             |June 17, 1879  |216,504
+  Simmons, Frederick               |June 24, 1879  |216,902
+  Junker, Carl                     |July 1, 1879   |217,112
+  Legat, Désiré Mathurin           |Aug. 12, 1879  |218,388
+  Willcox, C. H.                   |Aug. 12, 1879  |218,413
+  Cornely, Emile                   |Sept. 2, 1879  |219,225
+  Hamm, E.                         |Sept. 16, 1879 |219,578
+  Tuttle, J. W., and Keith, T. K.  |Sept. 16, 1879 |219,782
+  Stackpole, G., and               |Oct. 7, 1879   |220,314
+    Applegate, J. H.               |               |
+  Otis, S. L.                      |Oct. 28, 1879  |221,093
+  Bland, H.                        |Nov. 11, 1879  |221,505
+  Bracher, T. W.                   |Nov. 11,1879   |221,508
+  Snediker, J. F.                  |Nov. 25, 1879  |222,089
+  Mooney, J. H.                    |Dec. 2, 1879   |222,298
+  Osborne, J. H.                   |Feb. 3, 1880   |224,219
+  Smith, W. M.                     |March 2, 1880  |225,199
+  Banks, C. M.                     |March 23, 1880 |225,784
+  Haberling, J.                    |May 4, 1880    |227,249
+  Haberling, J.                    |May 11, 1880   |227,525
+  Wiseman, Edmund                  |June 8, 1880   |228,711
+  Juengst, George                  |June 15, 1880  |228,820
+  Morley, J. H.                    |June 15, 1880  |228,918
+  Curtis, G. H. W.                 |June 22, 1880  |228,985
+  Lipe, C. E.                      |June 29, 1880  |229,322
+  Miller, L. B., and Diehl, P.     |July 6, 1880   |229,629
+  Willcox, C. H.                   |July 20, 1880  |230,212
+  Shaw, E.                         |July 27, 1880  |230,580
+  Dinsmore, A. S.                  |Aug. 17, 1880  |231,155
+  Thurston, C. H.                  |Oct. 12, 1880  |231,300
+  Butcher, J.                      |Oct. 26, 1880  |233,657
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |Nov. 23, 1880  |234,732
+  Hesse, J.                        |Dec. 7, 1880   |235,085
+  Kjalman, H. N.                   |Dec. 21, 1880  |235,783
+  Morley, J. H.                    |Jan. 4, 1881   |236,350
+  Thomas, J.                       |Jan. 11, 1881  |236,466
+  Benson, G.                       |March 8, 1881  |238,556
+  Green, G. F.                     |March 8, 1881  |238,678
+  Eickemeyer, Rudolf               |March 29, 1881 |239,319
+  Palmer, C. H.                    |April 26, 1881 |240,758
+  Campbell, D. H.                  |May 17, 1881   |241,612
+  Campbell, Duncan H.              |May 17, 1881   |241,613
+  Leslie, A. M.                    |May 24, 1881   |241,808
+  Newell, George F.                |June 7, 1881   |242,470
+  Gritzner, Max C.                 |June 28, 1881  |243,444
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |July 5, 1881   |243,710
+  Choquette, A. E.                 |July 12, 1881  |244,033
+  Mooney, J. H.                    |July 19, 1881  |244,470
+  Beardslee, W. F.                 |Aug. 16, 1881  |245,781
+  Hine, Charlie M.                 |Aug. 23, 1881  |246,136
+  Willcox, C. H.                   |Sept. 6, 1881  |246,700
+  Hoefler, J.                      |Sept. 13, 1881 |246,883
+  Woodward, E.                     |Sept. 20, 1881 |247,285
+  Richards, Jean E.                |Jan. 24, 1882  |252,799
+  Abbott, W. W.                    |Jan. 31, 1882  |252,984
+  Secor, J. B.                     |Feb. 14, 1882  |253,772
+  Deschamps, O. L.                 |Feb. 21, 1882  |253,915
+  Hull, E. H.                      |Feb. 28, 1882  |254,217
+  Roberts, William                 |March 7, 1882  |254,696
+  Willcox and Borton               |March 28, 1882 |255,576
+  Borton and Willcox               |March 28, 1882 |255,577
+  Borton and Willcox               |March 28, 1882 |255,580
+  Borton and Willcox               |March 28, 1882 |255,581
+  Veukler, W.                      |April 4, 1882  |255,916
+  Hurtu, A. J.                     |May 30, 1882   |258,761
+  Keats, Alphonso                  |July 11, 1882  |260,990
+  Ramsden, John W.                 |Aug. 1, 1882   |262,116
+  Koch, William                    |Aug. 8, 1882   |262,298
+  Bigelow, J.                      |Aug. 29, 1882  |263,467
+  Mills, Daniel                    |Oct. 10, 1882  |265,850
+  Wilkinson, Charles E.            |Dec. 19, 1882  |269,251
+  Carlisle, W. S.                  |Jan. 9, 1883   |270,540
+  Holden, O. J., and Griswold, L.  |Feb. 13, 1883  |272,050
+  Cameron, James W.                |Feb. 20, 1883  |272,527
+  Miller, L. B., and Diehl, P.     |March 20, 1883 |274,359
+  Ludeke, W.                       |April 10, 1883 |275,506
+  Bolton, J., and Petnz, A. D.     |May 8, 1883    |277,106
+  Blodgett, John W.                |June 12, 1883  |279,320
+  Haberling, J.                    |Sept. 4, 1883  |284,300
+  Thimonnier, E., and Vernaz, C.   |Oct. 30, 1883  |287,592
+  Duchemin, William                |Nov. 20, 1883  |288,929
+  Lawrence, G. H.                  |Dec. 25, 1883  |290,895
+  Clever, Peter J.                 |April 8, 1884  |296,529
+  Palmer, John H.                  |May 6, 1884    |298,228
+  Dowling, James, and              |May 27, 1884   |299,118
+  Connolly, John                   |               |
+  Boecher, Adam                    |June 10, 1884  |300,199
+  Luedeke, Waldemar                |June 17, 1884  |300,380
+  VanVechten, Orville R.           |July 15, 1884  |302,063
+  Carr, Wm. H., and Ostrom, F. W.  |Aug. 12, 1884  |303,361
+  Trip, J.                         |Dec. 2, 1884   |308,711
+  Farrar, Arthur                   |Dec. 30, 1884  |309,837
+  Turner, M. G.                    |Feb. 17, 1885  |312,306
+  Mills, D.                        |March 3, 1885  |313,359
+  Hurtu, August J.                 |April 7, 1885  |315,037
+  Charmbury, Henry                 |April 28, 1885 |316,745
+  Woodward & Keith                 |April 28, 1885 |316,927
+  Walker, William                  |June 16, 1885  |320,099
+  Tucker, R. D.                    |June 23, 1885  |320,898
+  Wheeler and Dial                 |Oct. 13, 1885  |328,165
+  Thomas, Joseph                   |Nov. 10, 1885  |330,170
+  Muegge, C. A.                    |Dec. 8, 1885   |332,207
+  Diehl, P.                        |April 13, 1886 |339,623
+  Diehl, P.                        |Aug. 24, 1886  |347,776
+  Helwig, Arthur                   |Oct. 5, 1886   |350,364
+  Miehling, Charles                |Nov. 2, 1886   |351,992
+  Dieterle, H. E.                  |Nov. 30, 1886  |353,542
+  Walker, William                  |Dec. 7, 1886   |353,720
+  Rosenthal, S. A.                 |Dec. 7, 1886   |353,970
+  Temple, John                     |Feb. 22, 1887  |358,088
+  Gee, W. V.                       |April 19, 1887 |361,406
+  Lingley, John W.                 |Aug. 16, 1887  |368,538
+  Boppel, Jacob                    |Jan. 29, 1889  |396,979
+  Webster, William                 |April 30, 1889 |402,497
+  Osterhout and Hallenbeck         |May 7, 1889    |402,610
+  Bennett and Dowling              |Aug. 27, 1889  |409,728
+  Hine, Charles M.                 |Jan. 28, 1890  |420,382
+  Wheeler, Nathaniel               |Feb. 4, 1890   |420,847
+  Hallenbeck, J. P.                |April 8, 1890  |425,422
+  Lisle, Myron C.                  |May 20, 1890   |428,171
+  Walker and Bennet                |May 20, 1890   |428,548
+  Stewart, James, Jr.              |July 15, 1890  |432,449
+  Dewees, J. W.                    |July 22, 1890  |432,746
+  Powell, Thomas                   |Dec. 16, 1890  |442,695
+  Fletcher, James H.               |Dec. 30, 1890  |443,756
+  Rudolph, Ernst B., deceased,     |April 7, 1891  |449,927
+    Boulter, W. E., administrator  |               |
+  Goodwin, Julius C.               |April 21, 1891 |450,793
+  Cook, Hugo                       |June 23, 1891  |454,610
+  Bowyer, J. T.                    |June 23, 1891  |454,708
+  Willcox, C. H., and Borton, S.   |April 5, 1892  |472,094
+  Legg and Weston                  |May 17, 1892   |474,840
+  Kern, Ferdinand                  |July 19, 1892  |479,369
+  Jackson, Francis                 |May 1, 1894    |519,064
+  Charles Abercrombi               |June 5, 1892   |520,977
+  Taft, J. C.                      |Oct. 15, 1895  |547,866
+
+
+
+
+IV. 19th-Century Sewing-Machine Leaflets in the Smithsonian Collections
+
+  _Machine or Manufacturer_            |_Date_        |_Type_
+                                       |              |
+  American B.H.O. and Sewing Machine   |1874          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Buckeye sewing machine               |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, directions for using
+                                       |              |  the machine
+  New Buckeye                          |ca. 1872      |Illustrated, directions for using
+                                       |              |  the machine
+  Centennial sewing machine            |1876          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Domestic sewing machine              |1872          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Florence sewing machine              |1873          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Florence sewing machine              |1878          |Illustrated, directions for using
+                                       |              |  the machine
+  Goodes sewing machine                |ca. 1876      |Advertising leaflet
+  Grant Brothers sewing machine        |1867          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+                                       |              |  (Xerox copy)
+  Grover and Baker sewing machine      |1853          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Grover and Baker sewing machine      |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Home sewing machine                  |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Howe sewing machine, new "B" machine |1868          |Illustrated, instruction booklet
+  Howe sewing machine                  |1876          |Illustrated, catalog of machines
+  Independent Noiseless sewing machine |ca. 1874      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Ladd, Webster sewing machine         |1861          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Little Monitor sewing machine        |ca. 1872      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Remington Family sewing machine      |ca. 1874      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Shaw and Clark sewing machine        |1864          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Singer sewing machine                |1871          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Singer sewing machine                |1893          |Catalog of machines shown at the
+                                       |              |  Columbian Exposition
+  Standard Shuttle sewing machine      |ca. 1875      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Ten Dollar Novelty sewing machine    |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Weed sewing machine                  |1873          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine    |ca. 1869      |Illustrated, instruction booklet
+  Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine    |ca. 1870-1875 |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Wheeler and Wilson no. 8 machine     |ca. 1878      |Illustrated, instruction booklet
+  Wilson sewing machine                |1872          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+
+
+
+
+V. A Brief History of Cotton Thread
+
+
+Although Samuel Slater's wife is credited with making the first cotton
+sewing thread from yarns spun at the Pawtucket, Rhode Island, mill in
+about 1794, cotton thread did not become a manufactured item at that
+time. Slater turned all his interests to producing cotton-twist yarns
+needed for the warps of cotton fabrics. By 1809, however, the agents of
+Almy and Brown, partners and distributors for Slater, were advertising
+cotton thread as follows:
+
+     Factory Cotton and Thread Store, No. 26 Court Street opposite
+     Concert Hall. George Connell, Agent for Almy and Brown of
+     Providence and Pawtucket Manufactories, has now for sale from eight
+     to ten thousand weight of yarn, for weaving ... five hundred pounds
+     cotton thread, in hanks, from No. 12 to 60 of a superior quality
+     and very white.[91]
+
+Although it was a short hop from the spinning of cotton warps to the
+twisting of these cotton yarns to form a sewing thread, the general
+manufacture of cotton thread as an industry did not originate in the
+United States but rather in Scotland in the early 19th century.
+Napoleon's blockade, which curtailed Great Britain's importation of
+silk--needed not only for fabrics but also for making heddle strings for
+the looms--stimulated the production of cotton thread there. James and
+Patrick Clark, in desperation, attempted to substitute cotton for silk
+in their manufacture of these heddle strings. When they were successful,
+they considered that if cotton could be used successfully for this
+purpose it could also be made suitable for sewing thread. In 1812 they
+built a factory in Paisley, Scotland, which had long been noted for its
+textile industries. The thread was sold in hanks. About 1820 James'
+sons, James and John, who were now running J. & J. Clark & Co., began to
+wind the thread on spools. For this service they charged an extra
+halfpenny, which was refunded when the empty spool was returned. The
+thread was usually a three-ply or so-called three-cord thread.
+
+About 1815 James Coats, also of Paisley, started manufacturing thread at
+Ferguslie, Scotland. His two sons took over the company in 1826 and
+formed the J. & P. Coats Company. Another brother, Andrew Coats, became
+the selling agent in the United States about 1840. But the cotton-thread
+industry was not fully launched.
+
+As reported in an 1853 _Scientific American_, there was "more American
+thread made ten years ago than there is today."[92] It was not until the
+six-cord cabled cotton thread, which was suitable for both machine and
+hand sewing, was perfected that the industry progressed into full
+operation.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[91] William R. Bagnall, _Textile Industries of the United States_
+(Cambridge, Mass., 1893), vol. 1, p. 164.
+
+
+
+VI. Biographical Sketches
+
+
+BARTHELEMY THIMONNIER
+
+The first man known to have put a sewing machine into practical
+operation, Barthelemy Thimonnier, was a Frenchman of obscure parentage.
+His father, a textile dyer of Lyon, left that city in 1793 as a result
+of the Revolution and journeyed with his family to l'Arbresle where
+Barthelemy was born in August of that year.
+
+The family resources were small, and, although the young Thimonnier was
+able to begin studies at the Seminaire de Saint-Jean at Lyons, he soon
+was forced to leave school for financial reasons and return to his home,
+then at Amplepuis. There he learned the tailoring trade and by 1813 was
+fairly well established in his own shop.
+
+At that time many of the town's inhabitants were weavers and almost
+every house possessed one or two looms. The noise of the shuttle echoed
+from these family workshops. Thimonnier noted the relatively small
+amount of time needed to weave a fabric compared with the slow
+painstaking task of sewing a garment by passing the needle in and out
+for each stitch of each seam. When his mind began to dwell on the idea
+of producing a machine to do this stitching, another of the town's
+occupations supplied him with a clue and an additional incentive. This
+village industry produced a type of embroidery work called _point de
+chainette_, in which a needle with a small hook was used to form the
+chainstitch, a popular type of decorative stitch long used in countries
+all over the world. It was Thimonnier's plan to use this type of hooked
+needle and produce the stitch by machine, employing it both as a
+decorative stitch and a seam-forming one.
+
+In 1825 Thimonnier moved to St. Etienne, where he became completely
+absorbed in the idea of inventing a sewing machine. Ignorant of any of
+the principles of mechanics, he worked alone and in secret for four
+years, neglecting his tailoring business to the extent that neighbors
+looked upon him as peculiar, if not crazy. By 1829 he had not only
+mastered the mechanical difficulties of bringing his dream to
+realization, but also had made the acquaintance of the man who helped
+him to success. Ferrand, of l'Ecole des Mines of Saint-Etienne, became
+interested in the machine and helped finance Thimonnier through his
+trials and disappointments. In 1830 Thimonnier received a patent on his
+machine, which produced the chainstitch by means of a needle shaped like
+a small crochet hook.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 133.--BARTHELEMY THIMONNIER, 1793-1857. From an
+engraving in the _Sewing Machine Advance_, November 15, 1880.
+(Smithsonian photo 10569-A.)]
+
+Thimonnier, together with Ferrand and a M. Beaunier, made attempts to
+introduce his machine in Paris. By 1841 they were successful in having
+eighty of Thimonnier's machines in use sewing army clothing in a shop in
+Paris. But the fears of the tailors could not be quieted. The machines
+were destroyed by an ignorant and infuriated mob, as had been earlier
+labor-saving devices such as the Jacquard attachment for the loom and
+Hargreaves' spinning jenny. Thimonnier was forced to flee to his home in
+St. Etienne, once more penniless.
+
+Soon after this, Jean Marie Magnin, an engineer from
+Villefranche-sur-Saône became interested in Thimonnier's machine and
+provided the inventor again with financial backing. In 1845 under the
+name of Thimonnier and Magnin the patent of 1830 was renewed, and under
+it they organized the first French sewing-machine company. The machines
+they manufactured could produce 200 stitches per minute.
+
+The Revolution of 1848 curtailed the manufacture and sale of the
+machines. Thimonnier, remembering his unpleasant experience in 1841,
+decided to go to England with Magnin, where, on February 8, 1848, they
+received the English patent for his chainstitch machine. He was also
+granted United States patent 7,622 on September 20, 1850. This later
+machine had some advantages over his French machine of 1830, but by this
+time other inventors had joined the field with machines that were more
+practical. Magnin entered a sewing machine (which from the description
+in the catalog must have been Thimonnier's invention) in the Crystal
+Palace Exhibition in London in 1850, but because it was late in arriving
+it was overlooked by the judges and not even considered in the
+competition. Thimonnier died in poverty at Amplepuis on July 5, 1857.
+
+
+WALTER HUNT
+
+Walter Hunt was born near Martinsburg, New York, on July 29, 1796.
+Although little is known of Hunt's early childhood, we do learn from the
+author of his obituary, which appeared in _Scientific American_, July 9,
+1860, that even as a child he was more interested in people and what he
+could do for them than in what he could do to insure his own welfare. He
+is said to have devoted his life to his friends, frequently giving away
+his last cent when he did not have enough to provide for himself.
+
+There is no record that Hunt maintained a regular business other than
+the occupation of inventor. His interests were numerous and varied. He
+received his first patent on June 26, 1826, for a machine for spinning
+flax and hemp. During the next 33 years he patented 26 ideas. In
+addition he sold or dropped several more. His second patent was for a
+coach alarm, and through the years he also received patents for a
+variety of things including a knife sharpener, heating stove, ice boat,
+nail machine, inkwell, fountain pen, safety pin, bottle stopper, sewing
+machine (1854), paper collars, and a reversible metallic heel.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 134.--WALTER HUNT, 1796-1860. From a daguerreotype
+owned by his great-grandson, C. N. Hunt. (Smithsonian photo 32066-A.)]
+
+
+ELIAS HOWE, JR.
+
+Elias Howe, Jr., was born on his father's farm in Spencer,
+Massachusetts, on July 9, 1819. This was one of those barren New England
+farms with many rock-filled acres. All possible ingenuity was necessary
+to secure a living. The elder Howe supplemented his farming by having a
+small gristmill, a sawmill, and also by manufacturing cards for the
+fast-growing cotton industry of New England. Elias Jr.'s earliest
+recollections were of the latter. He worked with his brothers and
+sisters sticking wire teeth into strips of leather to make these cotton
+cards, but, not being very good at this, his family decided to let him
+"live out" with a neighboring farmer. (Children were leased in those
+days; they received their board and keep in exchange for chores they
+would perform.) After a few years, Elias returned home and worked in his
+father's mill until he was sixteen. Then, against the wishes of his
+family, he went to Lowell, Massachusetts. Here, he obtained a learner's
+place in a machine shop where cotton-spinning machinery was made and
+repaired.
+
+In 1837, when a financial panic hit the country, Howe lost his job. He
+then decided to go to Boston, and this marked a turning point in his
+career. In Boston he met Ari Davis, a maker of mariners' instruments and
+scientific apparatus. Howe began to work in Davis' shop, a place to
+which inventors often came to ask advice about their ideas. Davis
+sometimes helped them, but just as often he shouted at them in anger--he
+is said to have been one of the noisiest men in Boston. One day Howe
+overheard his employer bellowing at a man who had brought a knitting
+machine to the shop to seek Davis' advice. "Why are you wasting your
+time over a knitting machine?" said Davis, "Take my advice, try
+something that will pay. Make a sewing machine." "It can't be done," was
+the reply. "Can't be done?" shouted Davis, "Don't tell me that. Why--I
+can make a sewing machine myself." "If you do," interrupted the
+capitalist, "I can make an independent fortune for you." Davis, like
+most men of many words, often talked of more than he planned to do. He
+never attempted to invent a sewing machine.
+
+But the loud voices interested Howe, who, it is said, determined then
+that he would produce a sewing machine and win the fortune that the
+prosperous-looking man had asserted was waiting for such a deed. A kind
+of lameness since birth had made physical tasks painful for Howe, and he
+perhaps felt that this would offer an opportunity to become independent
+of hard physical work.
+
+After marrying on a journeyman machinist's pay of $9 a week, Howe's
+health worsened and by 1843 was so bad that he had to stop work for days
+at a time. His wife was forced to take in sewing to maintain the family.
+It was the sight of his wife toiling at her stitches together with the
+pressure of poverty that recalled to Howe his earlier interest in a
+machine to sew. He decided to make an earnest attempt to invent one.
+Watching his wife for hours at a time, he tried to visualize a machine
+that would duplicate the motions of the arm. After many trials, he
+conceived the idea of using an eye-pointed needle in combination with a
+shuttle to form a stitch. It is possible that, as some authors state,
+the solution appeared to him in a dream, a manifestation of the
+subconscious at work. Others have suggested that he may have learned of
+Hunt's machine. There is a general similarity in the two, not only in
+the combination of eye-pointed needle and shuttle but in the overhanging
+arm and vertical cloth suspension.
+
+After conceiving the idea, whatever his inspiration, Howe determined to
+devote all of his time to producing a working model of his machine.
+Elias' father, who had then started a factory for splitting palm leaves
+in Cambridge, gave him permission to set up a lathe and a few tools in
+the garret of the factory. Elias moved his family to Cambridge. Soon
+after his arrival, unfortunately, the building burned down, and Howe
+despaired of finding a place to work. He had a friend, however, in
+George Fisher, who had just come into a small inheritance, and Howe
+persuaded him to enter into partnership with him for the development of
+the machine. Fisher agreed to board Howe and his family, which now
+included two children, while Howe completed the model. Fisher also
+agreed to supply $500 for material and tools in exchange for a half
+interest in a patent if one was obtained.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 135.--ELIAS HOWE, JR., 1819-1867. From an oil
+painting in the Smithsonian Institution presented by the inventor's
+grandson, Elias Howe Stockwell. (Smithsonian photo 622.)]
+
+At long last Howe was able to spend his full time and concentration on
+building his machine. His family was being fed and had a roof over its
+head. Within a few months Howe had completed a model and by April 1845
+had sewed his first seam (see fig. 14). In July of that year he sewed
+all the principal seams of two suits of wool clothes, one for George
+Fisher and one for himself.
+
+Several efforts were made to solicit public interest in the new machine.
+One was installed in a public hall in Boston, and a tailor was employed
+to operate it at three times the regular wage. The reception was similar
+to that of Thimonnier's: crowds came to see the "contraption," but, when
+Howe tried to interest large clothing establishments in using the
+machine, the protests of the tailors effectively blocked him. He took
+his sewing machine to the Quincy Hall Clothing Manufactory and offered
+to sew up any seams brought to him. Daily he sat in one of the rooms
+demonstrating his machine, and finally he challenged five of the
+swiftest seamstresses there to a race. Ten seams of equal length were
+prepared for stitching. One was given to each of the girls while the
+remaining five were given to Howe. Howe finished his five a little
+sooner than the girls each finished one, and his seams were declared the
+strongest and neatest. (Had any curved or angular work been brought, he
+could not have stitched it.) Still Howe did not receive a single order.
+The fear of throwing hand sewers out of work was again expressed, and,
+in addition, the cost of the machine was said to be too high. When it
+was estimated that a large shirtmaker would have to buy thirty or forty
+such machines, the necessary large investment was dismissed as
+ridiculous.
+
+Howe was not too discouraged. In the meantime, he had finished a second
+machine for deposit with the patent specifications, as the patent laws
+then required. The second was a better made machine (fig. 15) and showed
+several minor changes. As soon as the patent was issued on September 10,
+1846, Howe and his partner returned to Cambridge.
+
+Without the inventor's enthusiasm or love of his own invention, George
+Fisher became thoroughly discouraged. He had boarded Howe and his family
+for nearly two years, had furnished the money needed to purchase the
+tools and materials for making the two sewing machines, had met the
+expense of obtaining the patent and the trip of Howe and himself to
+Washington; representing in all an outlay of practically $2000. Since no
+orders for machines had been received from either garment makers or
+tailors, Fisher did not see the slightest probability of the machine's
+becoming profitable and regarded his advances of cash as a dead loss.
+
+Howe moved back to his father's house with a plan to look elsewhere for
+a chance to introduce the machine. Obtaining a loan from his father, he
+built another machine and sent it to England by his brother Amasa. After
+many discouraging attempts to interest the British, Amasa met William
+Thomas, a manufacturer of umbrellas, corsets, and leather goods. Thomas
+employed many workmen, all of whom stitched by hand, and he immediately
+saw the possibilities of a sewing machine. He proposed that Howe sell
+the machine to him for £250 sterling (about $1250). Thomas further
+proposed to engage the inventor to adapt this machine to the making of
+corsets, at a salary of £3 a week.
+
+When Amasa Howe returned to Cambridge with the news, Elias was reluctant
+to accept Thomas' offer but had nothing better in sight. So the brothers
+sailed for London in February 1847, taking with them Howe's first
+machine and his patent papers. Thomas later advanced the passage money
+for Howe's wife and three children so that they could join Howe in
+England.
+
+At this point, historians disagree on how long Howe was in Thomas'
+employ and whether he succeeded in adapting the machine to meet Thomas'
+needs. He was in England long enough, however, to find himself without
+employment in a strange country, his funds nearly exhausted, and his
+wife ill. He hoped to profit by the notice that his work had received
+and began to build another machine. He sent his family home to reduce
+expenses while he stayed on to finish the machine.
+
+After working on it for three or four months, he was forced to sell it
+for five pounds and to take a note for that. To collect enough for his
+passage home, he sold the note for four pounds cash and pawned his
+precious first machine and his patent papers. He landed in New York in
+April 1849 with but half a crown in his pocket to show for his labors. A
+short time after he arrived, he learned that his wife was desperately
+ill. Only with a loan from his father was he able to reach her side
+before she died. Friends were found to look after the children, and
+Elias returned to work as a journeyman machinist.
+
+Howe discovered, much to his surprise, that during his absence in
+England the sewing machine had become recognized in the United States.
+Several machines made in Boston had been sold to manufacturers and were
+in daily operation. Upon investigating them, he felt that they utilized
+all or part of the invention that he had patented in 1846, and he
+prepared to secure just compensation for its use. The first thing he did
+was to regain his first machine and patent papers from the London
+pawnshop. It was no easy matter for Howe to raise the money, but by
+summer he had managed. It was sent to London with Anson Burlingame, who
+redeemed the loans, and by autumn of the same year the precious
+possessions were back in Howe's hands. Though Howe gained nothing by his
+English experience, William Thomas by his modest expenditure obtained
+all rights to the machine for Great Britain. This later proved to be a
+valuable property.
+
+Howe then began writing letters to those whom he considered patent
+infringers, requesting them to pay a fee or discontinue the manufacture
+of sewing machines which incorporated his patented inventions. Some at
+first were willing to pay the fee, but they were persuaded by the others
+to stand with them and resist Howe. This action forced Howe to the
+courts. With his father's aid he began a suit, but soon found that
+considerably more money than either possessed was necessary for such
+actions. Howe turned once more to George Fisher, but years of investing
+money in Howe's machine without any monetary return had cooled him to
+the idea. Fisher, however, agreed to sell his half interest, and in
+February 1851 George S. Jackson, Daniel C. Johnson, and William E.
+Whiting became joint owners with Howe. These men helped Howe to procure
+witnesses in the furtherance of numerous suits, but more money was
+needed than they could raise. The following year a Massachusetts man by
+the name of George W. Bliss was persuaded to advance the money for the
+heavy legal expenses needed to protect the patent. Bliss did this as a
+speculation and demanded additional security. Once more Elias'
+long-suffering parent came to the rescue and mortgaged his farm to get
+the necessary collateral.
+
+Only one of these suits was prosecuted to a hearing, but this one,
+relatively unimportant in itself, set the precedent. In it the defense
+relied on the earlier invention of Walter Hunt to oppose Howe's claims.
+The defendant succeeded in proving that Hunt invented, perfected, and
+sold two machines in 1834 and 1835 which contained all the essential
+devices in Howe's machine of 1846. But Howe showed that the defendant's
+machine (which was a Blodgett and Lerow) contained some features of
+Howe's machine which were not in Hunt's. The jury decided the case in
+favor of Howe. Howe later fought a vigorous battle with Isaac Singer,
+but after much legal controversy the ultimate decision in that case also
+was in Howe's favor. The suits and payments to each patent holder for
+the right to use his idea were choking the sewing-machine industry. Even
+Howe could not manufacture a practical machine without an infringement.
+Finally an agreement was reached and a "Combination" was formed by the
+major patent holders (see pp. 41-42).
+
+In the meantime, eight years of the first term of Howe's patent had
+expired without producing much revenue. This permitted Howe, upon the
+death of his partner, George Bliss, to buy Bliss' half interest for a
+small sum. He became, then, the sole owner of his patent just as it was
+to bring him a fortune. He obtained a seven-year extension for his
+patent in 1860 without any difficulty, and in 1867, when he applied for
+another extension, he stated that he had received $1,185,000 from it.
+Though he endeavored to show that because of the machine's great value
+to the public he was entitled to receive at least $150,000,000, the
+second application was denied.
+
+During the Civil War, Howe enlisted as a private soldier in the 17th
+Regiment Connecticut Volunteers. He went into the field and served as an
+enlisted man. On occasion when the Government was pressed for funds to
+pay its soldiers, he advanced the money necessary to pay his entire
+regiment.
+
+Howe did not establish a sewing-machine factory until just before his
+death in 1867. One of his early licensees had been his elder brother,
+Amasa, who had organized the Howe Sewing Machine Company about 1853.
+When Elias began manufacturing machines on his own, he sunk into the
+bedplate of each machine a brass medallion bearing his likeness. Elias
+gave his company the same name that his elder brother had used. As this
+had been Amasa's exclusive property for many years, he took the matter
+to the courts where the decision went against Elias. He then organized
+the Howe Machine Company and began to manufacture sewing machines. On
+October 3, 1867, Elias died in Brooklyn, New York, at the home of one of
+his sons-in-law. The company was then carried on by his two sons-in-law,
+who were Stockwell brothers. In 1872 the Howe Sewing Machine Company was
+sold by Amasa's son to the Stockwells' Howe Machine Company, which in
+turn went out of business in the mid-1880s.
+
+
+ALLEN BENJAMIN WILSON
+
+Allen B. Wilson was born in the small town of Willett, Cortlandt County,
+New York, in 1824. At sixteen he was apprenticed to a distant relative,
+a cabinetmaker. Unfortunate circumstances caused him to leave this
+employ, and in 1847 Wilson was in Adrian, Michigan, working as a
+journeyman cabinetmaker. The place and year are important, for it was at
+this time that he conceived his idea of a sewing machine. Because of the
+distant location, it is believed that he was not aware of similar
+efforts being made in New England. Wilson became ill and for many months
+could not work at his trade. By August 1848 he was able to work again
+and found employment at Pittsfield, Massachusetts. Resolving to develop
+his idea of a sewing machine, he worked diligently and by November had
+made full drawings of all the parts, according to his previous
+conceptions.
+
+In comparison to the monetary returns received by the inventors Howe and
+Singer, Wilson himself did not receive as great a monetary reward for
+his outstanding sewing-machine inventions. Because of his health Wilson
+retired in 1853, when the stock company was formed, but he received a
+regular salary and additional money from the patent renewals. Wilson
+petitioned for a second extension of his patents on April 7, 1874,
+stating that, due to his early poverty, he had been compelled to sell a
+half interest in a patent (his first one) for the sum of $200. Also he
+stated that he had not received more than his expenses during the
+original fourteen-year term. Wilson also stated that he had received
+only $137,000 during the first seven-year extension period. These
+figures were verified by his partner. The petition was read before both
+Houses of Congress and referred to the Committee on Patents.[94] There
+was strong feeling against the extension of the Wilson patents. The New
+York _Daily Graphic_, December 30, 1874, reported:
+
+[Illustration: Figure 136.--ALLEN BENJAMIN WILSON, 1824-1888. From a
+drawing owned by the Singer Mfg. Co. Formerly, the drawing was owned by
+the Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co. (Smithsonian photo 32066.)]
+
+     So valuable has been this latter four-motion feed that few or no
+     cloth-sewing machines are now made without it. The joint ownership
+     of this feature of the Wilson patents has served to bind the
+     combination of sewing-machine builders together, and enabled them
+     to defy competition by force of the monopoly. It is this feature
+     which the combination wishes to further monopolize for seven years
+     by act of Congress. The inventor has probably realized millions for
+     his invention. Singer admits that his patents, which are much less
+     important, paid him two millions prior to 1870, since which time he
+     has not been compelled to render an account. The Wilson patents
+     with their extended terms were worth a much larger sum. They have
+     been public property, so far as the feed is concerned, since June
+     15, 1873, and will remain so if too great a pressure is not brought
+     to bear on Congress for their extension. A monopoly of this feed
+     motion for seven years more would be worth from ten to thirty
+     millions to the owner--and would cost the people four times as
+     much.
+
+Wilson had not made the millions for he only received a small percentage
+of the renewals' earnings plus his salary from the patents' owner, the
+Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing Company.
+
+The Congressional Committee on Patents made an adverse report in 1874
+and again in 1875 and 1876, when applications for an extension were
+continued
+
+Wilson died on April 29, 1888.
+
+
+ISAAC MERRITT SINGER
+
+[Illustration: Figure 137.--- ISAAC MERRITT SINGER, 1811-1875. From a
+charcoal drawing owned by the Singer Mfg. Co. (Smithsonian photo
+32066-B)]
+
+Isaac Singer, whose name is known around the world as a manufacturer of
+sewing machines, was the eighth child of poor German immigrants. Isaac
+was born on October 27, 1811, in Pittstown, New York, but most of his
+early life was spent in Oswego. He worked as a mechanic and
+cabinetmaker, but acquired an interest in the theater. Under the name of
+Isaac Merritt, he went to Rochester and became an actor. In 1839, during
+an absence from the theater, he completed his first invention, a
+mechanical excavator, which he sold for $2000. With the money Singer
+organized a theatrical troupe of his own, which he called "The Merritt
+Players." When the group failed in Fredericksburg, Ohio, Singer was
+stranded for lack of funds.
+
+Forced to find some type of employment, Singer took a job in a
+Fredericksburg plant that manufactured wooden printers' type. He quickly
+recognized the need for an improved type-carving machine. After
+inventing and patenting one, he found no financial support in
+Fredericksburg and decided to take the machine to New York City. Here,
+the firm of A. B. Taylor and Co. agreed to furnish the money and give
+Singer room in its Hague Street factory to build machines. A boiler
+explosion destroyed the first machine, and Taylor refused to advance
+more money.
+
+While Singer was with Taylor, George B. Zieber, a bookseller who had
+seen the type-carving machine, considered its value to publishers.
+Zieber offered to help Singer and raised $1700 to build another model.
+In June 1850 the machine was completed. Singer and Zieber took the
+machine to Boston where they rented display space in the steam-powered
+workshop of Orson C. Phelps at 19 Harvard Place. Only a few publishers
+came to look at the machine, and none wanted to buy it.
+
+Singer, contemplating his future, became interested in Phelps' work,
+manufacturing sewing machines for J. A. Lerow and S. C. Blodgett. Phelps
+welcomed Singer's interest as the design of the mechanism was faulty and
+purchasers kept returning the machines for repairs. Singer examined the
+sewing machine with the eyes of a practical machinist. He criticized the
+action of the shuttle, which passed around a circle, and the needle bar,
+which pushed a curved needle horizontally. Singer suggested that the
+shuttle move to and fro in a straight path and that a straight needle be
+used vertically. Phelps encouraged Singer to abandon the type-carving
+machine and turn his energies toward the improvement of the sewing
+machine. Convinced that he could make his ideas work, Singer sketched a
+rough draft of his proposed machine, and with the support of Zieber and
+Phelps the work began.
+
+Singer continued to be active in the sewing-machine business until 1863.
+He made his home in Paris for a short time and then moved to England.
+While living at Torquay he conceived the idea of a fabulous Greco-Roman
+mansion, which he planned to have built at Paignton. Singer called it
+"The Wigwam." Unfortunately, after all his plans, he did not live to see
+its completion. Singer died on July 23, 1875, of heart disease at the
+age of sixty-three.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[93] _The Proceedings and Debates of the 43rd Congress_, First Session,
+1874 Congressional Record, vol. 2, part 3, petition read to the House by
+Mr. Creamer on April 7, 1874. In part 4 of the same, Mr. Buckingham read
+a similar petition to the Senate on May 19, 1874. Both were referred to
+the Committee on Patents; an extension was not granted.
+
+
+
+
+_Bibliography_
+
+
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+     universal cyclopaedia_, New York: D. Appleton and Company, 1895.
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+     [?].
+
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+
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+     1816.
+
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+
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+     Historical Society, 1886.
+
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+     General Survey_, vol. 1, pp. 293-297. 1867.
+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+
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+     vol. 4, August 1867.
+
+
+
+
+_Indexes_
+
+
+Geographical Index to Companies listed in Appendix II
+
+
+CONNECTICUT
+
+Bridgeport
+  D. W. Clark, 67
+  Jerome B. Secor, 68
+  Goodbody Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Howe Machine Co., 69
+  Secor Machine Co., 72
+  American Hand Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co., 74
+
+Bristol
+  Nettleton & Raymond, 72
+  Watson & Wooster, 73
+
+Danbury
+  Bartram & Fanton Mfg. Co., 66
+
+Hartford
+  Morrison, Wilkinson & Co., 71
+  Weed Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Meriden
+  Fosket and Savage, 68
+  Charles Parker Co., 72
+  Parker Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+Middletown
+  Victor Sewing Machine Co., 73
+
+Norwich
+  Greenman and True Mfg. Co., 69
+
+Waterbury
+  Waterbury Co., 73
+
+West Meriden
+  Parkers, Snow, Brooks & Co., 70
+
+
+DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA
+
+Washington
+  Post Combination Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+
+ILLINOIS
+
+Belleville
+  Thomas M. Cochrane Co., 71
+  J. H. Drew & Co., 71
+
+Belvidere
+  June Mfg. Co., 70
+  National Sewing Machine Co., 71
+
+Chicago
+  Chicago Sewing Machine Co., 67
+  Eldredge Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Free Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Scates, Tryber & Sweetland Mfg., 67
+  Sigwalt Sewing Machine Co., 67, 73
+  H. B. Goodrich, 69
+  June Mfg. Co., 70
+
+Rockford
+  Free Sewing Machine Co., 69
+
+
+MAINE
+
+Biddeford
+  Shaw & Clark Sewing Machine Co., 71, 73
+
+
+MASSACHUSETTS
+
+Boston
+  O. Phelps, 66
+  J. F. Paul & Co., 66
+  Boston Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  Bradford & Barber, mfgs., 66
+  John P. Bowker, 68
+  Empire Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Finkle & Lyon Sewing Machine Co., 68, 73
+  Grover and Baker Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Nichols and Bliss, 69
+  J. B. Nichols & Co., 69
+  Nichols, Leavitt & Co., 69, 70
+  N. Hunt & Co., 70
+  Hunt and Webster, 70
+  Emery, Houghton & Co., 70
+  Ladd, Webster & Co., 70
+  Leavitt & Co., 70
+  Leavitt Sewing Machine Co., 70
+  Safford & Williams Makers, 71
+  C. A. French, 72
+  F. R. Robinson, 72
+  Howard & Davis, 72
+  I. M. Singer & Co., 73
+  Butterfield & Stevens Mfg. Co., 74
+  Williams & Orvis Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Chicopee Falls
+  Shaw & Clark Co., 73
+  Chicopee Sewing Machine Co., 73
+
+Florence
+  Florence Sewing Machine Co., 67, 68
+
+Foxboro
+  Foxboro Rotary Shuttle Co., 68
+
+Lowell
+  Aetna Sewing Machine Co., 65
+
+Lynn
+  Woolridge, Keene and Moore, 67
+
+Orange
+  Gold Medal Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Johnson, Clark & Co., 69, 71, 73
+  Grout & White, 71
+  New Home Sewing Machine Co., 71
+
+Springfield
+  Leader Sewing Machine Co., 70
+  Springfield Sewing Machine Co., 73
+  D. B. Wesson Sewing Machine Co.,74
+
+Winchendon
+  J. G. Folsom, 68, 69, 71
+  William Grout, 71
+
+Worcester
+  Goddard, Rice & Co., 66
+
+
+MICHIGAN
+
+Detroit
+  Decker Mfg. Co., 67
+  C. G. Gardner, 69
+
+
+MISSOURI
+
+St. Louis
+  Wardwell Mfg. Co., 73
+
+
+NEW HAMPSHIRE
+
+Dover
+  O. L. Reynolds Manufacturing Co., 71
+
+Marlboro
+  Thurston Mfg. Co., 67
+
+Mason Village
+  Franklin Sewing Machine Co., 68
+
+
+NEW JERSEY
+
+Elizabethport
+  Singer Mfg. Co. (manufactory, not office), 73
+
+Paterson
+  Whitney Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+
+NEW YORK
+
+Binghamton
+  Independent Sewing Machine Co., 70
+
+Brooklyn
+  J. H. Lester, 70
+  G. L. Du Laney, 70
+
+Ithaca
+  Aiken and Felthousen (patentees), 65
+  American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co., 65
+  Clinton Brothers, 67
+  T. C. Thompson, 73
+
+New York
+  Avery Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  A. Bartholf, mfg., 66
+  Bartholf Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  Bartlett Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  Barlow & Son, 66
+  Beckwith Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  J. A. Davis, 67
+  Demorest Mfg. Co., 67
+  Charles A. Durgin, 68
+  Elliptic Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Eureka Shuttle Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Excelsior Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Madame Demorest, 68
+  First and Frost, 68
+  L. Griswold, 69
+  Howe Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Thos. A. Macauley Mfg., 70
+  New York Sewing Machine Co., 71
+  T. W. Robertson, 72
+  I. M. Singer & Co., 73
+  Singer Mfg. Co., 73
+  Standard Shuttle Sewing Machine Co., 73
+  Henry Stewart & Co., 73
+  Stewart Mfg. Co., 73
+  E. E. Lee & Co., 74
+  Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Watertown
+  Davis Sewing Machine Co., 67
+  Wheeler, Wilson & Co., 74
+
+Westmoreland
+  A. B. Buell, 67
+
+
+OHIO
+
+Cleveland
+  Wilson (W. G.) Sewing Machine Co., 66, 74
+  Domestic Sewing Machine Co. (after 1924), 67
+  Leslie Sewing Machine Co., 70
+  Standard Sewing Machine Co., 73
+  White Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Dayton
+  Davis Sewing Machine Co., 67
+
+Elyria
+  West & Willson Co., 74
+
+Norwalk
+  Dauntless Mfg. Co., 67, 72
+  Wm. A. Mack & Co., and N. S. Perkins, 67
+  Domestic Sewing Machine Co., 67, 70
+
+Springfield
+  Royal Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  St. John Sewing Machine Co., 73
+
+Toledo
+  Jewel Mfg. Co., 70
+
+
+PENNSYLVANIA
+
+Erie
+  Noble Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+Philadelphia
+  American Buttonhole, Overseaming and Sewing Machine Co., 65
+  Centennial Sewing Machine Co., 67
+  George B. Sloat and Co., 68
+  Rex & Bockius, 69
+  Grant Bros. & Co., 69
+  B. W. Lacey & Co., 71
+  Parham Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  Philadelphia Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  Quaker City Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  E. Remington & Sons, 72
+  Taggart & Farr, 73
+
+Pittsburgh
+  Love Mfg. Co., 70
+
+
+RHODE ISLAND
+
+Providence
+  Household Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Providence Tool Co., 69
+
+
+VERMONT
+
+Brattleboro
+  Samuel Barker and Thomas White, 66
+  Brattleboro Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Estey Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Higby Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Nettleton & Raymond (Charles Raymond), 71
+
+Windsor
+  Lamson, Goodnow & Yale, 67, 74
+  Vermont Arms Co., 74
+
+
+VIRGINIA
+
+Richmond
+  Lester Mfg. Co., 70
+  Union Sewing Machine Co., 68, 70
+  Old Dominion Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+
+WISCONSIN
+
+Milwaukee
+  Whitehill Mfg. Co., 74
+
+
+Alphabetical Index to Patentees listed in Appendix III
+
+
+Abercrombi, Charles, 520977
+
+Abbott, W. W., 252984
+
+Adams, John Q., 92138
+
+Alexander, Elisa, 16518
+
+Ambler, D. C., 11884
+
+Angell, Benjamin J., 19285
+
+Applegate, John H., and Webb, Charles B., 177784
+
+Appleton, C. J., and Sibley, J. J., 179440
+
+Arnold, B., 86121, 138981, 138982
+
+Arnold, G. B. and A., 30112
+
+Arnold, G. B., 28139
+
+Atwater, B., 44063
+
+Atwood, J. E., 22273
+
+Atwood, K. C., 194759
+
+Atwood, J. E., J. C., and O., 19903
+
+Avery, Otis, 9338, 10880
+
+Avery, O. and Z. W., 22007
+
+
+Bachelder, J., 6439
+
+Baglin, William, 154113
+
+Baker, G. W., 70152, 125374, 130005
+
+Baldwin, Cyrus W., 38276
+
+Banks, C. M., 225784
+
+Barcellos, D., 203102
+
+Barnes, M. M., 106307
+
+Barnes, William T., 20688, 25084, 25876
+
+Barney, Samuel C., 156119
+
+Barrett, O. D., 25785
+
+Bartholf, Abraham, 19823
+
+Bartlett, Joseph W., 46064, 76385
+
+Bartlett, Joseph W., and Plant, Frederick, 159065
+
+Barton, Kate C., 182096
+
+Bartram, W. B., 54670, 54671, 60669, 62520, 83592, 104247, 130557
+
+Bates, W. G., assignor to Johnson, William H., 9592
+
+Bayley, C. H., 212122
+
+Bean, Benjamin W., 2982
+
+Bean, E. E., 28144
+
+Beardslee, W. F., 245781
+
+Beck, August, 190184, 196863
+
+Beckwith, William G., 126921, 133351, 167382
+
+Behn, Henry, 18071, 18880
+
+Belcher, C. D., 16710
+
+Benedict, C. P., 83596
+
+Bennett, Frank Howard, and Dowling, James, 409728
+
+Bennor, Joseph, 106249
+
+Benson, George, 238556
+
+Beukler, William, 204704
+
+Beuttel, Charles, 115155
+
+Bigelow, J., 263467
+
+Billings, C. E., 88603
+
+Bishop, H. H., 22226
+
+Black, Samuel S., 146642
+
+Blake, Lyman R., 20775, 74289
+
+Blanchard, Helen A., 141987
+
+Bland, Henry, 216016, 221505
+
+Blodgett, S. C, 15469, 21465
+
+Blodgett, John W., 279320
+
+Boecher, Adam, 300199
+
+Bond, Joseph Jr., 12939, 93588, 189599
+
+Booth, Ezekiel, 25087
+
+Boppel, Jacob, 396979
+
+Borton, S., 214089
+
+Borton, Stockton, and Willcox, Charles H., 255576, 255577, 255580, 255581
+
+Bosworth, C. F., 19979, 38807, 122555, 199500, 216504
+
+Bounaz, A., 83909, 83910
+
+Bouscay, Eloi, Jr., 127145
+
+Bowyer, J. T., 454708
+
+Boyd, A. H., 19171, 24003, 31864
+
+Bracher, T. W., 221508
+
+Bradeen, J. G., 9380
+
+Bradford, E. F. and Pierce, V. R., 177371
+
+Braundbeck, E., 127675
+
+Brewer, A. G., 152894
+
+Briggs, Thomas, 198790
+
+Brown, F. H., 94389, 102366, 131735, 193477
+
+Bruen, J. T., 31208
+
+Bruen, L. B., 68839
+
+Budlong, William G., 25946
+
+Buell, J. S., 25381
+
+Buhr, Johannes, 151272
+
+Burnet, S. S. and Broderick, W., 22160
+
+Burr, Theodore, 32023
+
+Butcher, Joseph, 180542, 233657
+
+
+Cadwell, Caleb, 45972, 71131
+
+Cajar, Emil, 50299, 61711
+
+Cameron, James W., 272527
+
+Campbell, Duncan H., 241612, 241613
+
+Canfield, F. P., 86057
+
+Carhart, Peter S., 24098
+
+Carlisle, W. S., 270540
+
+Carpenter, Lunan, 20990
+
+Carpenter, Mary P., 112016
+
+Carpenter, William, 87633
+
+Carr, William H. and Ostrom, F. W., 303361
+
+Case, George F., 33029
+
+Cately, William H., 56902
+
+Chamberlain, J. N., 28452
+
+Chandler, Rufus, 133757, 139368
+
+Charmbury, H., 316745
+
+Chase, M., 113498
+
+Chilcott, J. and Scrimgeour, J., 12856
+
+Chittenden, H. H., 43289
+
+Choquette, A. E., 244033
+
+Clark, David W., 19015, 19072, 19129, 19409, 19732, 20481, 21322, 23823
+
+Clark, Edwin, 26336
+
+Clark, Edwin E., 74751
+
+Clements, James M., 57451
+
+Cleminshaw, S., 128363, 213391
+
+Clever, P. J., 96886
+
+Clever, Peter J., 296529
+
+Coates, F. S., 19684
+
+Cole, W. H., 79447
+
+Conant, J. S., 12233
+
+Conklin, N. A., 206774
+
+Cook, Hugo, 454610
+
+Cooney, W., 102226
+
+Corbett, E. and Harlow, C. F., 192568
+
+Corey, J. W., 198970
+
+Corliss, George H., 3389
+
+Cornely, E., 73696
+
+Cornely, Emile, 219225
+
+Craige, E. H., 62186, 67635
+
+Crane, Thomas, 150532
+
+Crosby, C. O., 50225, 90507
+
+Crosby, C. O. and Kellogg, H., 37033
+
+Cummins, William G., 187822
+
+Curtis, G. H. W., 228985
+
+Cushman, C. S., 142442, 184594
+
+
+Dale, John D., 44686
+
+Dancel, Christian, 199802
+
+Darling and Darling, 163639
+
+Davis, Job A., 27208, 58614
+
+Derocquigny, A. C. F., Gance, D., and Hanzo, L., 34748
+
+Deschamps, O. L., 253915
+
+Destouy, Auguste, 56729
+
+Dewees, John W., 432746
+
+Dickinson, C. W., 26346
+
+Diehl, Philipp, 339623, 347776, 347777, 348113
+
+Dieterle, H. E., 353542
+
+Dimmock, Martial and  Rixford, Nathan, 19135
+
+Dimond, George H., 196198, 207400
+
+Dinsmore, Alfred S., 160512, 231155
+
+Dinsmore, A. S., and Carter, John T., 152618
+
+Doll, Arnold, 68420
+
+Dopp, H. W., 27279
+
+Dowling, James, and Connolly, John, 299118
+
+Drake, Ellis, 155932
+
+Duchemin, William, 59715, 91101, 135032, 288929
+
+Dunbar, C. F., 88282
+
+Durgin, Charles A., 12902
+
+
+Earle, T., 31156
+
+Eickemeyer, Rudolf, 52698, 182182, 239319
+
+Elderfield, F. D., 204429
+
+Eldridge, G. W., 87331
+
+Elliott, F., 85918
+
+Emerson, John, 50989
+
+Emswiler, J. B., 25002
+
+Esty, William, 187837
+
+
+Fales, J. F., 74328
+
+Fanning, John, 72829, 129013
+
+Farr, Chester N., 25004
+
+Farrar, Arthur, 309837
+
+Fetter, George, 18793, 19059
+
+Fish, Warren L., 123625
+
+Fletcher, James N., 443756
+
+Follett, Joseph L., 189446
+
+Fosket, William A., and Savage, Elliot,  22719, 25963
+
+French, Stephen, 80345
+
+Frese, B., 172308
+
+Fuller, H. W., 63033
+
+Fuller, William M., 32496
+
+
+Garland, H. P., 159812, 169163
+
+Gee, W. V., 361406
+
+Gibbs, James E. A., 16234, 16434, 17427, 21129, 21751, 27214, 28851
+
+Gird, E. D., 87559
+
+Goodes, E. A., 136718, 147387
+
+Goodspeed, G. N., 54816
+
+Goodwin, Julius C., 450793
+
+Goodwyn, H. H., 24455
+
+Goodyear, Charles Jr., 111197, 116947
+
+Gordon, James, and Kinert, William, 125807
+
+Gray, Joshua, 16566, 19665, 24022, 95581
+
+Green, George F., 238678
+
+Greenough, John J., 2466
+
+Gritzner, M. C., 44720, 76323
+
+Gritzner, Max C., 243444
+
+Grote, F. W., 38447
+
+Grout, William, 24629
+
+Grover, William O., 14956, 33778, 36405, 100139
+
+Grover, William O., and Baker, William E., 7931
+
+Guinness, William S., 41916
+
+Gullrandsen, P. E., and Rettinger, J. C., 180225
+
+Gutmann, Julius, 90528
+
+
+Halbert, A. W., 76076
+
+Hall, William, 24870
+
+Hale, William S., 36084
+
+Hall, Luther, 43404
+
+Hall, L., 105329
+
+Hall, John S., 168637, 187006
+
+Hallenbeck, J. P., 425422
+
+Hallett, H. H., 191584
+
+Hamm, E., 219578
+
+Hancock, Henry J., 83492, 112033
+
+Hanlon, John, 52847
+
+Happe, J., and Newman, W., 130715, 137199
+
+Hardie, J. W., 30854
+
+Harris, Daniel, 17508, 17571
+
+Harris, David, 185228
+
+Harrison, J. Jr., 10763, 13616, 25013, 25262
+
+Hart, William, 50469
+
+Hayes, James, 55029
+
+Hayden, H. W., 24937
+
+Heberling, J., 204604, 227249, 227525, 284300
+
+Hecht, A., 50473
+
+Heery, Luke, 94740
+
+Heidenthal, William, 127765
+
+Helwig, Arthur, 350364
+
+Hendrick, Joseph E., 19660, 21722
+
+Hendrickson, E. M., 34330
+
+Henriksen, H. P., 104590, 188515, 215615
+
+Hensel, George, 24737
+
+Herron, A. C., 20557
+
+Hesse, Joseph, 235085
+
+Heyer, W. D., 40622
+
+Heyer, Frederick, 30731
+
+Hicks, William C., 26035, 29268
+
+Hinkley, Jonas, 25231
+
+Hinds, Jesse L., 131166
+
+Hine, Charles M., 420382
+
+Hine, Charlie M., 246136
+
+Hodgkins, Christopher, 9365, 33085, 69666
+
+Hoefler, J., 246883
+
+Hoffman, George W., 94112
+
+Hoffman, Clara P., and Meyers, Nicholas, 207035
+
+Holden, O. J., and Griswold, L., 272050
+
+Hollowell, J. G., 27624
+
+Holly, Birdsill, 28176
+
+Hook, Albert H., 22179, 24027
+
+Horr, Addison D., 149862
+
+House, James A., 206239
+
+House, James A., and House, Henry A., 36932, 39442, 39445, 55865, 87338, 114294
+
+Howard, C. W., 126056, 126057
+
+Howard, T. S. L., 199206
+
+Howard, E. L., 154485
+
+Howard, E., and Jackson, W. H., 103745
+
+Howe, Amasa Bemis, 37913
+
+Howe, Elias, 4750, 16436
+
+Hubbard, George W., 18904, 21537
+
+Hull, E. H., 254217
+
+Humphrey, D. W. G., 36617, 49627
+
+Hunt, Walter, 11161
+
+Huntington, Thomas S., 158214
+
+Hurtu, Auguste J., 258761, 315037
+
+Hurtu, Auguste J., and Hautin, Victor J., 98064
+
+
+Ingalls, N., Jr., 212602
+
+
+Jackson, Francis, 519064
+
+Jackson, William, 181941
+
+Jacob, Frederick, 190047
+
+Jencks, G. L., 74694
+
+Jennings, L., 16237
+
+Johnson, Albert F., 16387, 20686, 26948
+
+Johnson, W. H., 10597
+
+Jones, John T., 86163, 117640, 169106
+
+Jones, Samuel H., 140631
+
+Jones, Solomon, 118537, 118538
+
+Jones, William, and Haughian, P., 32297
+
+Juengst, George, 27132, 228820
+
+Junker, Carl, 217112
+
+
+Kallmeyer, G., 137689
+
+Keats, Alphonso, 260990
+
+Keats, John, 198120
+
+Keats, John; Greenwood, Arthur; and Keats, Alphonso, 171622
+
+Keats, John, and Clark. Wm. S., 50995
+
+Keith, Jeremiah, 97518, 170741, 196809, 209126, 243710
+
+Keith, T. H., 196909
+
+Keith, T. K., 170955
+
+Kelsey, D., 24939
+
+Kendall, George F., 101887
+
+Kern, Ferdinand, 479369
+
+Kilbourn, E. E., 59746
+
+Kjalman, H. N., 235783
+
+Knoch, Charles F., 183400
+
+Koch, William, 262298
+
+Koch, Friederich, and Brass, Robert, 138898, 145215
+
+
+Lamb, Isaac W., 109632
+
+Lamb, Thomas, 98390, 118728
+
+Lamb, Thomas, and Allen, John, 49421
+
+Lamson, Henry P., 79579
+
+Landfear, William R., 109427, 155193
+
+Langdon, Leander W., 13727, 39256
+
+Lathbury, E. T., 17744
+
+Lathrop, Lebbeus W., 139067
+
+Lathrop, Lebbeus W., and de Sanno, William P., 40446
+
+Lawrence, G. H., 290895
+
+Lazelle, W. H., 18915
+
+Leavitte, Albert, 171147
+
+Leavitt, Rufus, 30634
+
+Leavitt, Albert, and Drew, Henry L., 187874
+
+Legat, D. M., 218388
+
+Legg, Albert, and Weston, Charles W., 474840
+
+Leslie, A. M., 241808
+
+Leyden, Austin, 57157
+
+Lingley, John W., 368538
+
+Lipe, C. E., 229322
+
+Lisle, Myron C., 428171
+
+Ludeke, Waldemar, 275506, 300380
+
+Lyon, Lucius, 89489, 96713, 105820
+
+Lyon, W., 12066
+
+
+Macauley, F. A., 195939
+
+Mack, William A., 38592
+
+Mallary, G. H., 31897
+
+Mann, Charles, 33556
+
+Marble, F. E., 33439
+
+Marin, Charles, 179709
+
+Martin, W., Jr.; Dawson, D. R.; and Orchar, R., 206743
+
+Martine, Charles F., 104612
+
+Meyers, Nicholas, 99783
+
+Melhuish, R. M., 194610
+
+McCloskey, John, 55688, 161534
+
+McClure, A. T., 130385
+
+McKay, Gordon, and Blake, Lyman, 42916
+
+McKay, Gordon, 188809
+
+McLean, J. N., 88499
+
+McCombs, George F., 208407
+
+McCurdy, James S., 24395, 26234, 28097, 28993, 36256, 38931, 46303, 53743
+
+Miehling, Charles, 351992
+
+Miller, Charles, 9139, 26462
+
+Miller, Westley, 20763
+
+Miller, Lebbens B., and Diehl, Philipp, 229629, 274359
+
+Mills, Daniel, 96944, 265850, 313359
+
+Mooney, John H., 222298, 244470
+
+Moore, Charles, 21015
+
+Moreau, Eugene, 110669, 156171
+
+Morley, J. H., 228918, 236350
+
+Morrell, R. W.; Parkinson, T.; Parkinson, J., 202857
+
+Morrison, T. W., 216289
+
+Muegge, C. A., 332207
+
+Mueller, H., 28996
+
+Muir, William, 147152
+
+Murphy, E., 176880
+
+
+Nasch, Isidor, 104630
+
+Necker, Carl, 117101
+
+Nettleton, William H., and Raymond, Charles, 17049, 18350
+
+Newell, George F., 242470
+
+Newlove, Thomas, 27761
+
+Norton, B. F., 32782
+
+
+O'Neil, John, 137618
+
+Oram, Henry, 185952
+
+Osborne, J. H., 224219
+
+Otis, S. L., 221093
+
+Osterhout, James A., and Hallenbeck, Joseph P., 402610
+
+
+Page, Charles, 96343, 150479
+
+Paine, A. R., 27412
+
+Palmateer, William A., 187479
+
+Palmer, Aaron, 35252
+
+Palmer, C. H., 38450, 124694, 240758
+
+Palmer, Frank L., 185954
+
+Palmer, John H., 298228
+
+Parham, Charles, 109443, 135579
+
+Parker, Sidney, 19662, 24780
+
+Parks, Volney, 129981
+
+Parmenter, Charles O., 212495
+
+Payne, R. S., 30641
+
+Pearson, M. H., 199991
+
+Pearson, William, 26201
+
+Pearson, William, 166805, 172478
+
+Perry, James, 22148
+
+Piper, D. B., 56990
+
+Pipo, John A., 37550
+
+Pitt, James; Joseph; Edward; and William, 117203
+
+Planer, Louis, 43927
+
+Porter, D. A., 144864
+
+Porter, Alonzo, 99704
+
+Porter, D'Arcy, and Baker, George W., 174703
+
+Powell, Thomas, 442695
+
+Pratt, Samuel F., 16745, 22240
+
+
+Ragan, Daniel, 137321
+
+Ramsden, John W., 262116
+
+Randel, William, 192008
+
+Rayer, William A., and Lincoln, William S., 108827
+
+Raymond, Charles, 19612, 22220, 32785, 32925
+
+Reed, T. K., 60241, 62287
+
+Rehfuss, George, 40311, 51086, 61102, 73119
+
+Reynolds, O. S., 19793
+
+Rice, T. M., 176686
+
+Rice, Quartus, 31429
+
+Richards, Jean E., 252799
+
+Richardson, E. F., 145687
+
+Richardson, Everett P., 146948, 165506
+
+Roberts, William, 254696
+
+Robertson, T. J. W., 12015
+
+Robinson, Charles E., 110790
+
+Robinson, Frederick R., 7824
+
+Rodier, Peter, 59659
+
+Roper, S. H., 11531, 16026, 18522
+
+Rose, Israel M., 28814, 31628
+
+Rose, Reubin M., 170596
+
+Rosenthal, Sally Adolph, 353970
+
+Ross, Noble G., 31829
+
+Ross, J. G., and Miller, T. L., 138764
+
+Rowe, James, 26638, 27260
+
+Ruddick, H., 28538
+
+Rudolph, Bruno, 99481
+
+Rudolph, Ernst B. (deceased), Boulter, W. E. (administrator), 449927
+
+Russell, W. W., 86695
+
+
+Sage, William, 17717
+
+Sangster, Amos W., 21929
+
+Savage, Elliott, 19876
+
+Sawyer, Irvin P., and Alsop, T., 25918
+
+Sawyer, Sylvanus, and Esty, William, 174159
+
+Schmidt, Albert E., 162697
+
+Schwalback, M., 56805
+
+Scofield, Charles, 26059
+
+Scofield, Charles, and Rice, Clarke, 28610
+
+Scribner, Benjamin, Jr., 146483
+
+Secor, J. B., 253772
+
+Sedmihradsky, A. J., 196486
+
+Shaw, E., 230580
+
+Shaw, Philander, 11680
+
+Shaw, A. B., 37202
+
+Shaw, Henry L., 32007
+
+Shaw and Clark, 38246
+
+Sheffield, G. V., 135047
+
+Shorey, Samuel W., 148765
+
+Sibley, J. J., 42117
+
+Sidenberg, William, 112745, 115117
+
+Simmons, Frederick, 216902
+
+Simmons, A. G., and Scofield, C., 41790
+
+Singer, Isaac M., 8294, 10975, 12364, 13065, 13661, 13662, 14475, 60433, 61270
+
+Smalley, J., 27577
+
+Smith, DeWitt C., 45528
+
+Smith, E. H., 20739, 21089, 96160
+
+Smith, H. B., 12247
+
+Smith, J. M., 31334
+
+Smith, Lewis H., 31411, 32385
+
+Smith, John C., 34988
+
+Smith, James H., 148902
+
+Smith, Wilson H., 28785
+
+Smith, W. M., 225199
+
+Smith, William T., 99743
+
+Smyth, D. M., 126845, 234732
+
+Snediker, J. F., 222089
+
+Snyder, Watson, 22987
+
+Spencer, James C., 24061
+
+Spencer, James H., and Lamb, Thomas, 22137
+
+Speirs, John, 152813
+
+Spoehr, F., 101779
+
+Springer, William A., 128919, 142290, 147441
+
+Stackpole, G., and Applegate, J. H., 220314
+
+Stannard, M., 64184
+
+Stedman, G. W., 12074, 12573, 12798, 13856
+
+Stein, M. J., 81956, 113593
+
+Stevens, George, and Hendy, Joshua, 111488
+
+Steward, A., 207454
+
+Stewart, James, Jr., 141397, 432449
+
+Stewart, W. T., 205698
+
+Stoakes, J. W., 32456
+
+Sullivan, John J., 179232
+
+Sutton, William A., 29202
+
+Swartwout, H. L., 89357
+
+Swingle, A., 14207
+
+
+Taft, J. C., 547866
+
+Tapley, G. S., 25059
+
+Tarbox, John N., 49803
+
+Tate, William J., 113704
+
+Taylor, F. B., 146721
+
+Temple, John, 358088
+
+Thayer, Augustus, 172205
+
+Thimonnier, E., and Vernaz, C., 287592
+
+Thomas, Joseph, 330170
+
+Thomas, J., 236466
+
+Thompson, J., 27082
+
+Thompson, T. C., 9641
+
+Thompson, Rosewell, 34926, 42449
+
+Thurston, C. H., 233300
+
+Tittman, Alexander, 89093, 136792
+
+Toll, Charles F., 171193
+
+Tracy, Dwight, 30012
+
+Tracy, Dwight, and Hobbs, George, 40000
+
+Trip, J., 308711
+
+True, Cyrus B., 148336
+
+Tucker, R. D., 320898
+
+Tucker, Joseph C., 56641
+
+Turner, M. G., 312306
+
+Turner, S. S., 133553
+
+Tuttle, J. W., and Keith, T. K., 219782
+
+Thompson, George, 115255
+
+
+Uhlinger, W. P., 21224
+
+Upson, L. A., 176153
+
+
+Van Vechten, O. R., 302063
+
+Varicas, L., 204864
+
+Venner, O., 133814
+
+Veukler, W., 255916
+
+
+Wagener, Jeptha A., 40296
+
+Walker, William, 141407, 176101, 320099, 353720
+
+Walker and Bennet, 428548
+
+Ward, D. T., 12146
+
+Wardwell, Simon W., Jr., 128684, 141245, 148339
+
+Warth, Albin, 56646, 73064
+
+Washburn, T. S., 30031
+
+Waterbury, Enos, 79037
+
+Watson, William C., 14433, 18834
+
+Weber, Theodore A., 145823, 166236
+
+Webb, T., and Heartfield, C. H., 213537
+
+Webster, W., 182249, 402497
+
+Weitling, W., 37931, 45777
+
+Wells, W. W., 209843
+
+Wensley, James, 152055, 207230
+
+West, Elliott P., 117708, 130674, 138772
+
+West, H. B., and Willson, H. F., 20753
+
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, 420847
+
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, and Dial, Wilbur F., 328165
+
+Wheeler, Darius, and Carpenter, Lunan, 21100
+
+Whitehill, Robert, 166172
+
+Wickersham, William, 9679, 18068, 18069
+
+Wilder, M. G., 32323
+
+Wilkins, J. N., 36591
+
+Wilkinson, Charles E., 269251
+
+Willcox, Charles H., 42036, 43819, 44490, 44491, 218413, 230212, 246700
+
+Willcox, C. H., and Borton, S., 472094
+
+Willcox, C. H., and Carleton, C., 116521, 116523, 116783
+
+Wilson, Allen B., 7776, 8296, 9041
+
+Wiseman, Edmund, 228711
+
+Witherspoon, S. A., 176211
+
+Winter, William, 88936
+
+Wollenberg, H., and Priesner, J., 206848
+
+Wood, John, 185811
+
+Wood, Richard G., 207928
+
+Woodruff, George B., and Browning, George, 97014
+
+Woodward, E., 247285
+
+Woodward, F. G., 25782
+
+Woodward, Erastus, and Keith, Thomas K., 316927
+
+Wormald, William, and Dobson, Edmund, 169881
+
+
+Young, E. S., and Dimond, G. H., 206992
+
+
+General Index to Chapters 1-4
+
+
+Adams and Dodge, 9
+
+Aetna Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+American Buttonhole and Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Archbold, Thomas, 13
+
+Arrowsmith, George A., 11
+
+
+Bachelder, John, 22, 30, 34, 41, 42
+
+Baker, William E., 36 (_see_ Grover & Baker)
+
+Bartholf, A., 24, 40
+
+Bartlett Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Bartram & Fanton Manufacturing Company, 40
+
+Bean, Benjamin W., 13, 14, 15
+
+Blees Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Bliss, George, 24
+
+Blodgett and Lerow, 24, 26, 30
+
+Blodgett, Sherbrune C., 25
+
+Bradshaw, John A., 21, 22, 26, 27
+
+Brown, W. N., 50
+
+
+Centennial Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Chapman, Edward Walter, 7, 19
+
+Chapman, William, 7
+
+Clark, D. W., 47, 49
+
+Clark, Edward, 33, 34, 35
+
+Combination, Sewing-Machine, 23, 24, 38, 41-42, 47, 48
+
+Conant, Jotham S., 22
+
+Corliss, George H., 14, 15, 16
+
+
+Dale, John D., 54
+
+Davis, Ari, 19
+
+Davis Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Demorest, Madame, 53
+
+Dodge, Rev. John Adam, 9
+
+Domestic Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Duncan, John, 6, 19
+
+
+Elliptic Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Ellithorp, S. B., 51
+
+Ellithorp & Fox, 51
+
+Empire Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Fairy Sewing Machine, 53
+
+Family Sewing Machine (Singer), 35
+
+Finkle & Lyon Manufacturing Company, 40
+
+Fisher, George, 19
+
+Fisher, John, 15, 16
+
+Florence Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Folsom, J. G., 40
+
+
+Gibbons, James, 15
+
+Gibbs, James E. A., 45, 48
+
+Goddard, Rice & Co., 25
+
+Gold Medal Sewing Machine Company, 40, 53
+
+Goodspeed & Wyman Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Grasshopper, The, 35
+
+Greenough, John J., 13, 14
+
+Grover & Baker Sewing Machine Company, 24, 35, 37, 38, 40, 41
+
+Grover, William O., 35, 38
+
+
+Heberling, John, 54
+
+Henderson, James, 6
+
+Hendrick, Joseph, 49
+
+Heyer, W. D., 52
+
+Hook, Albert H., 50
+
+Howe, Amasa B., 24
+
+Howe, Elias, Jr., 11, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 28, 29, 33, 34, 41,
+  42, 138 (biographical sketch)
+
+Howe Machine Company (Elias), 25
+
+Howe Sewing Machine Company (Amasa, then B. P.), 24, 25, 40
+
+Hunt, Walter, 10, 11, 19, 33, 138 (biographical sketch)
+
+
+Jenny Lind (sewing machine), 30
+
+Johnson, Joseph B., 22
+
+
+Keystone Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Kline, A. P., 27
+
+Knowles, John, 9
+
+Krems, Balthasar, 7, 19
+
+Ladd & Webster Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Leavitt Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Lee, Edward, 27
+
+Lee, E. & Co., 27, 28
+
+Lerow, John A., 24, 25
+
+Little Gem, 53
+
+London Sewing Machine, 22
+
+Lye, Henry, 9
+
+
+McKay Sewing Machine Association, 40
+
+Madersperger, Josef, 8, 9, 12, 13
+
+Magnin, Jean Marie, 11, 22
+
+Mason, The Honorable Charles, 13
+
+Morey, Charles, 22
+
+Morey & Johnson, 23, 34, 42
+
+
+Newton, Edward, 13
+
+Nichols and Bliss, 24
+
+
+Palmer, Aaron, 52
+
+Parham Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Perry, James, 49
+
+Phelps, Orson C., 25, 30, 31
+
+Potter, Orlando B., 37, 38, 41
+
+
+Remington Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Robertson, T. J. W., 47
+
+Rodgers, James, 15
+
+
+Safford & Williams Makers, 22
+
+Saint, Thomas, 4, 5, 19
+
+Secor Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Shaw & Clark Sewing Machine Co., 40, 54
+
+Singer, Isaac Merritt, 23, 25, 30, 31, 33, 34, 35, 41, 142
+  (biographical sketch)
+
+Singer, I. M. Company, 13, 32, 34, 40
+
+Singer Manufacturing Co., 30, 40, 42
+
+Singer's Perpendicular Action Sewing Machine, 30, 31
+
+Stone, Thomas, 6
+
+Thimonnier, Barthelemy, 11, 19, 137 (biographical sketch)
+
+Thomas, William, 20
+
+Thompson, C. F., 40
+
+Turtleback Machine (Singer), 35
+
+
+Union Buttonhole Machine Company, 40
+
+
+Warren and Woodruff, 28
+
+Weatherill, Jacob, 37
+
+Weed Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Weisenthal, Charles F., 4, 19
+
+Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Company, 22, 29, 30, 40
+
+Wheeler, Wilson and Company, 24, 28, 41
+
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, 27, 28
+
+Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Company, 40, 46, 48
+
+Willcox, Charles, 46, 48
+
+Willcox, James, 46
+
+Wilson, Allen Benjamin, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 141 (biographical sketch).
+  (_See_ Wheeler & Wilson.)
+
+Wilson, Newton, 4
+
+Wilson, (W. G.), Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Woolridge, Keene, and Moore, 24
+
+
+Zieber, George, 30, 33
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+
+Table layouts have been changed to avoid very long line lengths.
+Footnotes have been moved to Chapter ends. Minor punctuation errors have
+been corrected without note. The following typographical errors have
+been corrected/noted:
+
+  Footnote 9 "Praktisches Wissen von der Nähmaschine."--was "Praktisches
+              wissen von der Nähmaschine."
+  p. 11      "a loop in the other"--was "a loop in the the other"
+  p. 19      "chainstitch, Thimonnier used"--was "chainstitch, Thimmonier
+              used"
+  p. 76      "known to be in existence is"--was "known to be in eixstence is"
+  p. 80      "7501-12500, 1873;"--was "7501-12500, 8173;"
+  p. 119     "shaped like an open [?] into which"--A letter or symbol appears
+              to be missing in the original between open and into.
+  p. 119     "181161-220318"--overlaps range of previous entry.
+  p. 130     "June 30, 1874 |152,618"--was "Jan. 30, 1874 |152,618"
+  p. 138     "Villefranche-sur-Saône"--was "Ville-franche-sur-Saône"
+  p. 145     "Praktisches Wissen von der Nähmaschine."--was "Praktisches
+              wissin von der Nähmaschine."
+  p. 153     "O'Neil, John, 137618"--was "O'Niel, John, 137618"
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Invention of the Sewing Machine, by 
+Grace Rogers Cooper
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE ***
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Invention of the Sewing Machine, by 
+Grace Rogers Cooper
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Invention of the Sewing Machine
+
+Author: Grace Rogers Cooper
+
+Release Date: June 4, 2010 [EBook #32677]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Joseph Cooper, Louise Pattison
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
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+
+
+</pre>
+
+<div class="tn">
+<p class="center">Transcriber&rsquo;s Note: <a href="#Transcribers_Notes">Corrections</a> to typographical errors are underlined
+<ins class="mycorr" title="Original: like thsi">like this</ins>. Mouse over to view the original text.</p>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;<br /></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/icover.jpg" width="400" height="480" alt="Detail from inside front cover" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Detail from front cover.</span>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><h1 style="text-align: left">
+SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION<br />
+<small>UNITED STATES NATIONAL MUSEUM</small></h1></div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
+<img src="images/i001.png" width="200" height="186" alt="Smithsonian Logo" title="" />
+
+
+<p class="center"><big>BULLETIN 254</big></p>
+
+<p class="center"><big>WASHINGTON, D.C.</big></p>
+
+<p class="center">1968<br /><br /></p></div>
+<p style="clear: both">&nbsp;</p>
+<p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 100px;">
+<img src="images/i002.png" width="100" height="123" alt="Smithsonian Institution Press Logo" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><big>THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION PRESS</big><br /><br /></p>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p>
+<h1><br /><br />
+<i>The Invention<br />
+Of the Sewing Machine</i><br /><br /></h1>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<img src="images/i003.png" width="200" height="256" alt="Title Page Illustration" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><big><i>Grace Rogers Cooper</i></big></p>
+
+<p class="center"><small>CURATOR OF TEXTILES</small></p>
+<p class="center"><big><span class="smcap">Museum of History and Technology</span></big></p>
+
+<p class="center">SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION &middot; WASHINGTON, &middot; D.C. 1968</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><i>Publications of the United States National Museum</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>The scholarly and scientific publications of the United States National
+Museum include two series, <i>Proceedings of the United States National
+Museum</i> and <i>United States National Museum Bulletin</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In these series, the Museum publishes original articles and monographs
+dealing with the collections and work of its constituent museums&mdash;The
+Museum of Natural History and the Museum of History and
+Technology&mdash;setting forth newly acquired facts in the fields of
+anthropology, biology, history, geology, and technology. Copies of each
+publication are distributed to libraries, to cultural and scientific
+organizations, and to specialists and others interested in the different
+subjects.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Proceedings</i>, begun in 1878, are intended for the publication, in
+separate form, of shorter papers from the Museum of Natural History.
+These are gathered in volumes, octavo in size, with the publication date
+of each paper recorded in the table of contents of the volume.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>Bulletin</i> series, the first of which was issued in 1875, appear
+longer, separate publications consisting of monographs (occasionally in
+several parts) and volumes in which are collected works on related
+subjects. <i>Bulletins</i> are either octavo or quarto in size, depending on
+the needs of the presentation. Since 1902 papers relating to the
+botanical collections of the Museum of Natural History have been
+published in the <i>Bulletin</i> series under the heading <i>Contributions from
+the United States National Herbarium</i> and, since 1959, in <i>Bulletins</i>
+titled &ldquo;Contributions from the Museum of History and Technology,&rdquo; have
+been gathered shorter papers relating to the collections and research of
+that Museum.</p>
+
+<p>This work forms volume 254 of the <i>Bulletin</i> series.</p>
+
+<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Frank A. Taylor</span><br />
+<i>Director, United States National Museum</i></p>
+
+<p class="center"><br /><br /><br />
+<small>For sale by Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office<br />
+Washington, D.C. 20402&mdash;Price $2.75<br /></small></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Contents" id="Contents"></a><i>Contents</i></h2>
+
+<table summary="table of contents">
+<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">Preface</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_vii">vii</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">Acknowledgments</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_viii">viii</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1.</td><td colspan="2">Early Efforts</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>2.</td><td colspan="2">Elements of a Successful Machine</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_17">17</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>3.</td><td colspan="2">The &ldquo;Sewing-Machine Combination&rdquo;</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>4.</td><td colspan="2">Less Expensive Machines</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">Appendixes</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_55">55</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="right">I.</td><td>Notes on the Development and Commercial Use of the Sewing Machine</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_57">57</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="right">II.</td><td>American Sewing-Machine Companies of the 19th Century</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="right">&nbsp;III.</td><td>Chronological List of U.S. Sewing-Machine Patent Models in the Smithsonian Collections</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_125">125</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="right">IV.</td><td>19th-Century Sewing Machine Leaflets in the Smithsonian Collections</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_134">134</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="right">V.</td><td>A Brief History of Cotton Thread</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="right">VI.</td><td>Biographical Sketches</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_137">137</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">Bibliography</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_144">144</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">Indexes</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_147">147</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td><td>Geographical Index to Companies Listed in Appendix II</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_149">149</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td><td>Alphabetical Index to Patentees Listed in Appendix III</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_151">151</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td><td>General Index to Chapters 1-4</td><td class="right"><a class="xref" href="#Page_155">155</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>Preface</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>It had no instrument panel with push-button controls. It was not
+operated electronically or jet-propelled. But to many 19th-century
+people the sewing machine was probably as awe-inspiring as a space
+capsule is to their 20th-century descendants. It was expensive, but,
+considering the work it could do and the time it could save, the cost
+was more than justified. The sewing machine became the first widely
+advertised consumer appliance, pioneered installment buying and patent
+pooling, and revolutionized the ready-made clothing industry. It also
+weathered the protests of those who feared the new machine was a threat
+to their livelihood.</p>
+
+<p>The practical sewing machine is not the result of one man&rsquo;s genius, but
+rather the culmination of a century of thought, work, trials, failures,
+and partial successes of a long list of inventors. History is too quick
+to credit one or two men for an important invention and to forget the
+work that preceded and prodded each man to contribute his share. It is
+no discredit to Howe to state that he <i>did not invent the sewing
+machine</i>. Howe&rsquo;s work with the sewing machine was important, and he did
+patent certain improvements, but his work was one step along the way. It
+is for the reader to decide whether it was the turning point.</p>
+
+<p>Since the sewing machine has been considered by some as one of the most
+important inventions of 19th-century America, of equal importance to
+this story of the invention is the history of the sewing machine&rsquo;s
+development into a practical, popular commodity. Since many new
+companies blossomed overnight to manufacture this very salable item, a
+catalog list of more than one hundred and fifty of these 19th-century
+companies is included in this study. Still, the list is probably
+incomplete. Many of the companies remained in business a very short time
+or kept their activities a secret to avoid payment of royalties to
+patent holders. Evidence of these companies is difficult to find. It is
+hoped that additional information will come to light<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span> as a result of
+this initial attempt to list and date known companies. The dating of
+individual machines based on their serial numbers is also a difficult
+task. Individual company records of this type have not survived;
+however, using the commercial machines in the patent collection, for
+which we know one limiting date&mdash;the date the machine was deposited at
+the patent office&mdash;and using the records that have survived, an
+estimated date based on the serial number can be established for many of
+the better known machines.</p>
+
+<div class="bbox blockquot2">
+
+<p class="center large"><i>Acknowledgments</i></p>
+
+<p>I am greatly indebted to the late Dr. Frederick Lewton, whose
+interest in the history of the sewing machine initiated the
+collecting of information about it for the Smithsonian
+Institution&rsquo;s Division of Textiles archives and whose out-of-print
+booklet &ldquo;A Servant in the House&rdquo; prompted the writing of this work.
+I would also like to thank Mr. Bogart Thompson of the Singer
+Manufacturing Company for his cooperation in arranging for the gift
+of an excellent collection of 19th-century sewing machines to the
+Smithsonian and for allowing me to use the Singer historical files.
+Acknowledgment is also made of the cooperation extended by The
+Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village for permitting me to study
+their collection of old sewing machines.</p>
+
+<p class="right"><i>Grace Rogers Cooper</i></p></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><i>Chapter One</i><br /><br /></h2>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><img src="images/i010.png" width="600" height="432" alt="Figure 1." title="Figure 1." /><p class="caption">Figure 1.&mdash;<span class="smcap">After almost a century of attempts to invent a
+machine that would sew</span>, the practical sewing machine evolved in the
+mid-19th century. This elegant, carpeted salesroom of the 1870s, with
+fashionable ladies and gentlemen scanning the latest model sewing
+machines, reflects the pinnacle reached by the new industry in just a
+few decades. This example, one of many of its type, is the Wheeler and
+Wilson sewing-machine offices and salesroom, No. 44 Fourteenth Street,
+Union Square, New York City. From <i>The Daily Graphic</i>, New York City,
+December 29, 1874. (Smithsonian photo 48091-A.)</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p>
+<h2>Early Efforts</h2>
+<h3>To 1800</h3>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">For thousands of years</span>, the only means of stitching two pieces of fabric
+together had been with a common needle and a length of thread. The
+thread might be of silk, flax, wool, sinew, or other fibrous material.
+The needle, whether of bone, silver, bronze, steel, or some other metal,
+was always the same in design&mdash;a thin shaft with a point at one end and
+a hole or eye for receiving the thread at the other end. Simple as it
+was, the common needle (fig. 2) with its thread-carrying eye had been an
+ingenious improvement over the sharp bone, stick, or other object used
+to pierce a hole through which a lacing then had to be passed.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> In
+addition to utilitarian stitching for such things as the making of
+garments and household furnishings, the needle was also used for
+decorative stitching, commonly called embroidery. And it was for this
+purpose that the needle, the seemingly perfect tool that defied
+improvement, was first altered for ease of stitching and to increase
+production.</p>
+
+<p>One of the forms that the needle took in the process of adaptation was
+that of the fine steel hook. Called an <i>aguja</i> in Spain, the hook was
+used in making a type of lace known as <i>punto de aguja</i>. During the 17th
+century after the introduction of chainstitch embroideries from India,
+this hook was used to produce chainstitch designs on a net ground.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>
+The stitch and the fine hook to make it were especially adaptable to
+this work. By the 18th century the hook had been reduced to needle size
+and inserted into a handle, and was used to chainstitch-embroider woven
+fabrics.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> In France the hook was called a crochet and was sharpened to
+a point for easy entry into the fabric (fig. 3). For stitching, the
+fabric was held taut on a drum-shaped frame. The hooked needle pierced
+the fabric, caught the thread from below the surface and pulled a loop
+to the top. The needle reentered the fabric a stitch-length from the
+first entry and caught the thread again, pulling a second loop through
+the first to which it became enchained. This method of embroidery
+permitted for the first time the use of a continuous length of thread.
+At this time the chainstitch was used exclusively for decorative
+embroidery, and from the French name for drum&mdash;the shape of the frame
+that held the fabric&mdash;the worked fabric came to be called tambour
+embroidery. The crochet<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>or small hooked needle soon became known as
+a tambour needle.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><img src="images/i015.png" width="200" height="379" alt="Figure 2." title="Figure 2." /><p class="caption">Figure 2.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Primitive needle.</span> Bronze. Egyptian (Roman
+period, 30 B.C.-A.D. 642). (Smithsonian photo 1379-A.)</p></div>
+
+<p>In 1755 a new type of needle was invented for producing embroidery
+stitches. This needle had to pass completely through the fabric two
+times (a through-and-through motion) for every stitch. The inventor was
+Charles F. Weisenthal, a German mechanic living in London who was
+granted British patent 701 for a two-pointed needle (fig. 4). The
+invention was described in the patent as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The muslin, being put into a frame, is to be worked with a needle
+that has two points, one at the head, and the other point as a
+common needle, which is to be worked by holding it with the fingers
+in the middle, so as not to require turning.</p></div>
+
+<p>It might be argued that Weisenthal had invented the eye-pointed needle,
+since he was the first inventor to put a point at the end of the needle
+having the eye. But, since his specifically stated use required the
+needle to have two points and to be passed completely through the
+fabric, Weisenthal had no intention of utilizing the very important
+advantage that the eye-pointed needle provided, that of <i>not</i> requiring
+the passage of the needle through the fabric as in hand sewing.</p>
+
+<p>While no records can be found to establish that Weisenthal&rsquo;s patent was
+put to any commercial use during the inventor&rsquo;s lifetime, the
+two-pointed needle with eye at midpoint appeared in several 19th-century
+sewing-machine inventions.</p>
+
+<p>The earliest of the known mechanical sewing devices produced a chain or
+tambour stitch, but by an entirely different principle than that used
+with either needle just described. Although the idea was incorporated
+into a patent, the machine was entirely overlooked for almost a century
+as the patent itself was classed under wearing apparel. It was entitled
+&ldquo;An Entire New Method of Making and Completing Shoes, Boots,
+Splatterdashes, Clogs, and Other Articles, by Means of Tools and
+Machines also Invented by Me for that Purpose, and of Certain
+Compositions of the Nature of Japan or Varnish, which will be very
+advantageous in many useful Applications.&rdquo; This portentously titled
+British patent 1,764 was issued to an English cabinetmaker, Thomas
+Saint, on July 17, 1790. Along with accounts of several processes for
+making various varnish compositions, the patent contains descriptions of
+three separate machines; the second of these was for &ldquo;stitching,
+quilting, or sewing.&rdquo; Though far from practical, the machine
+incorporated several features common to a modern sewing machine. It had
+a horizontal cloth plate or table, an overhanging arm carrying a
+straight needle, and a continuous supply of thread from a spool. The
+motion was derived from the rotation of a hand crank on a shaft, which
+activated cams that produced all the actions of the machine.</p>
+
+<p>One cam operated the forked needle (fig. 5) that pushed the thread
+through a hole made by a preceding thrust of the awl. The thread was
+caught by a looper and detained so that it then became enchained in the
+next loop of thread. The patent described thread tighteners above and
+below the work and an adjustment to vary the stitches for different
+kinds of material. Other than the British patent records, no
+contemporary reference to Saint&rsquo;s machine has ever been found. The
+stitching-machine contents of this patent was happened on by accident in
+1873.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Using the patent description, a Newton Wilson of London
+attempted to build a model of Saint&rsquo;s machine in 1874.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Wilson found,
+however, that it was necessary to modify the construction before the
+machine would stitch at all.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span><img src="images/i016.png" width="600" height="907" alt="Figure 3." title="Figure 3." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 3.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Tambour needle and frame</span>, showing the method
+of forming the chainstitch, from the Diderot Encyclopedia of 1763, vol.
+<span class="smcap">II</span>, <i>Plates Brodeur</i>, plate II. (Smithsonian photo 43995-C.)</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>This raised the question whether Saint had built even one machine.
+Nevertheless, the germ of an idea was there, and had the inventor
+followed through the sewing machine might have been classed an
+18th-century rather than a 19th-century contribution.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;"><img src="images/i018a.png" width="60" height="423" alt="Figure 4." title="Figure 4." /><p class="caption">Figure 4.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Weisenthal&rsquo;s</span> two-pointed needle, 1755.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;">
+<a name="fig_5" id="fig_5"></a>
+<img src="images/i018b.png" width="400" height="322" alt="Figure 5." title="Figure 5." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 5.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Saint&rsquo;s sewing machine</span>, 1790. (Smithsonian
+photo 42490-A.)</p></div>
+
+<h3>1800-1820</h3>
+
+<p>There is no doubt that the successful late-18th-century improvements in
+spinning and weaving methods, resulting in increased production of
+fabrics, had a great effect in spurring inventors to ideas of stitching
+by machinery. Several efforts were made during the first two decades of
+the 19th century to produce such machines.</p>
+
+<p>On February 14, 1804, a French patent was issued to Thomas Stone and
+James Henderson for a &ldquo;new mechanical principle designed to replace
+handwork in joining the edges of all kinds of flexible material, and
+particularly applicable to the manufacture of clothing.&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> The machine
+used a common needle and made an overcast stitch in the same manner as
+hand sewing. A pair of jaws or pincers, imitating the action of the
+fingers, alternately seized and released the needle on each side of the
+fabric. The pincers were attached to a pair of arms arranged to be moved
+backward and forward by &ldquo;any suitable mechanism.&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> This machine was
+capable of making curved or angular as well as straight seams, but it
+was limited to carrying a short length of thread, necessitating frequent
+rethreading. The machine may have had some limited use, but it was not
+commercially successful.</p>
+
+<p>On May 30 of the same year John Duncan, a Glasgow manufacturer, was
+granted British patent 2,769 for &ldquo;a new and improved method of
+tambouring, or raising flowers, figures or other ornaments upon muslins,
+lawns and other cottons, cloths, or stuffs.&rdquo; This machine made the
+chainstitch, using not one but many hooked needles that operated
+simultaneously. The needles, attached to a bar or carrier, were pushed
+through the vertically held fabric from the upper right side, which in
+this case was also the outer side. After passing through it, they were
+supplied with thread from spools by means of peculiarly formed hooks or
+thread carriers. The thread was twisted around the needle above the
+hook, so as to be caught by it, and drawn through to the outer surface.
+The shaft of the needle was grooved on the hook side and fitted with a
+slider. This slider closed upon the retraction of the needle from the
+fabric, holding the thread in place and preventing the hook from
+catching. The fabric was stretched between two rollers set in an upright
+frame capable of sliding vertically in a second frame arranged to have
+longitudinal motion. The combination of these two motions was sufficient
+to produce any required design. The principle developed by Duncan was
+used on embroidery machines, in a modified form, for many years. Of
+several early attempts, his was the first to realize any form of
+success.</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_6" id="fig_6"></a>
+<img src="images/i019.png" width="600" height="259" alt="Figure 6." title="Figure 6." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 6.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Chapman&rsquo;s sewing machine</span>, first eye-pointed
+needle, 1807. (Smithsonian photo 33299-K.)</p></div>
+
+<p>A type of rope-stitching machine, which might be considered unimportant
+to this study, must be included because of its use of the eye-pointed
+needle, the needle that was to play a most important part in the later
+development of a practical sewing machine. The earliest reference to the
+use of a needle with an eye not being required to be passed completely
+through the fabric it was stitching is found in a machine invented by
+Edward Walter Chapman, for which he and William Chapman were granted
+British patent 3,078 on October 30, 1807. The machine (fig. 6) was
+designed to construct belting or flat banding by stitching together
+several strands of rope that had been laid side by side. Two needles
+were required and used alternately. One needle was threaded and then
+forced through the ropes. On the opposite side the thread was removed
+from the eye of the first needle before it was withdrawn. The second
+needle was threaded and the operation repeated. The needles could also
+be used to draw the thread, rather than push it, through the ropes with
+the same result. While being stitched, the ropes were held fast and the
+sewing frame and supporting carriage were moved manually as each stitch
+was made. Such a machine would be applicable only to the work described,
+since the necessity of rethreading at every stitch would make it
+impractical for any other type of sewing.</p>
+
+<p>Another early machine reported to have used the eye-pointed needle to
+form the chainstitch was invented about 1810 by Balthasar Krems,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> a
+hosiery worker of Mayen, Germany. One knitted article produced there was
+a peaked cap, and Krems&rsquo; machine was devised to stitch the turned edges
+of the cap,<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> which was suspended from wire pins on a moving wheel.
+The needle of the machine was attached to a horizontal shaft and carried
+the thread through the fabric. The loop of thread was retained by a
+hook-shaped pin to become enchained with the next loop at the reentry of
+the needle. Local history reports that this device may have been used as
+early as 1800, but the inventor did not patent his machine and
+apparently made no attempt to commercialize it. No contemporary
+references to the machine could be found, and use of the machine may
+have died with the inventor in 1813.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_7" id="fig_7"></a>
+<img src="images/i022.png" width="600" height="406" alt="Figure 7." title="Figure 7." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 7.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Madersperger&rsquo;s 1814 sewing machine.</span>
+Illustration from a pamphlet by the inventor entitled <i>Beschreibung
+einer N&auml;hmaschine</i>, Vienna, ca. 1816. (Smithsonian photo 49373.)</p></div>
+
+<p>About the same time, Josef Madersperger, a tailor in Vienna, Austria,
+invented a sewing machine, which was illustrated (fig. 7) and described
+in a 15-page pamphlet published about 1816.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> On May 12, 1817, a
+Vienna newspaper wrote of the Madersperger machine: &ldquo;The approbation
+which his machine received everywhere has induced his Royal Imperial
+Majesty, in the year 1814, to give to the inventor an exclusive
+privilege [patent] which has already been mentioned before in these
+papers.&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> Madersperger&rsquo;s 1814 machine stitched straight or curving
+lines. His second machine stitched small semicircles, as shown in the
+illustration, and also small circles, egg-shaped figures, and angles of
+various degrees. The machine, acclaimed by the art experts, must
+therefore have been intended for embroidery stitching. From the
+contemporary descriptions and the illustration, the machine is judged to
+have made a couched stitch&mdash;one thread was laid on the surface of the
+fabric and stitched in place with a short thread carried by a
+two-pointed needle of the type invented by Weisenthal. Two fabrics could
+have been stitched together, but not in the manner required for
+tailoring. The machine must have had many deficiencies in the tension
+adjustment, feed, and related mechanical operations, for despite the
+published wishes for success the inventor did not put the machine into
+practical<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> operation.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> Years later Madersperger again attempted to
+invent a sewing machine using a different stitch (see p. 13).</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_8" id="fig_8"></a>
+<img src="images/i025.png" width="300" height="393" alt="Figure 8." title="Figure 8." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 8.&mdash;<span class="smcap">An engraving of Thimonnier</span> and his sewing
+machine of 1830, from <i>Sewing Machine News</i>, 1880. (Smithsonian photo
+10569-C.)</p></div>
+
+<p>A story persists that about 1818-1819 a machine that formed a
+backstitch, identical to the one used in hand sewing, was invented in
+Monkton, Vermont. The earliest record of this machine that this author
+has found was in the second or 1867 edition of <i>Eighty Years of Progress
+of the United States</i>; the machine is not mentioned in the earlier
+edition. The writer of the article on sewing machines states that John
+Knowles invented and constructed a sewing machine, which used a single
+thread and a two-pointed needle with the eye in the middle to form the
+backstitch. This information must have come to light after the first
+edition was published, but from where and by whom is not known. Other
+sources state that two men, Adams and Dodge, produced this machine in
+Monkton.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> While still others credit the Reverend John Adam Dodge,
+assisted by a mechanic by the name of John Knowles, with the same
+invention in the same location.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> Vermont historical societies have
+been unable to identify the men named or to verify the story of the
+invention.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> The importance of the credibility of this story, if
+proved, rests in the fact that it represents the first effort in the
+United States to produce a mechanical stitching device.</p>
+
+
+<h3>1820-1845</h3>
+
+<p>American records of this period are incomplete as a result of the Patent
+Office fire of 1836, in which most of the specific descriptions of
+patents issued to that date were destroyed. Patentees were asked to
+provide another description of their patents so that these might be
+copied, but comparatively few responded and only a small percentage was
+restored. Thus, although the printed index of patents<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> lists Henry
+Lye as patenting a machine for &ldquo;sewing leather, and so forth&rdquo; on March
+10, 1826, no description of the machine has ever been located. Many
+patents whose original claim was for only a mechanical awl to pierce
+holes in leather or a clamp to hold leather for hand stitching were
+claimed as sewing devices once a practical machine had evolved. But no
+evidence has ever been found that any of these machines performed the
+actual stitching operation.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_9" id="fig_9"></a>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i027.png" width="400" height="513" alt="Figure 9." title="Figure 9." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 9.&mdash;<span class="smcap">An adapted drawing</span> of Hunt&rsquo;s sewing machine
+published by the <i>Sewing Machine News</i>, vol. 2, no. 8, 1881, to give
+some idea of its construction and operation. &ldquo;The frame of the machine
+(A) rested on a base (B) that was supported by a table. The wheel (C)
+worked on a central shaft (E) and was set in motion by hand or foot
+power. On the front of the wheel (C) was a raised cam (D) into which the
+connecting rod (F) engaged to communicate motion to the vibrating arm
+(G) pivoted to the frame at (H) and carrying at the end (g) the curved
+needle (I). The take-up (J) served to tighten the thread after each
+stitch; it was connected to the vibrating arm by a rod (K). The cloth
+(L) was held in a vertical position between the fingers or nippers (M),
+which were attached to the frame. The bar (N) was toothed on one side
+(n) to mesh with the geared wheel (o). The lever (P) was operated by a
+cam (m) upon the periphery of the wheel (C), and carried the vertical
+pawl (S) which meshed with the ratchet (T) and moved the cloth as each
+stitch was made. The shuttle (U) worked in its race (V); it was operated
+by the vibrating lever (W), the upper end of which engaged into a groove
+on the face of the wheel (C).&rdquo; (Smithsonian photo 42554.)</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>The first man known to have put a mechanical sewing device into
+commercial operation was Barthelemy Thimonnier,<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> a French tailor.
+After several years of fruitless effort he invented a machine for which
+he received a French patent in 1830.<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> The machine (fig. 8) made a
+chainstitch by means of a barbed or hooked needle. The vertically held
+needle worked from an overhanging arm. The needle thrust through the
+fabric laid on the horizontal table, caught a thread from the thread
+carrier and looper beneath the table, and brought a loop to the surface
+of the fabric. When the process was repeated the second loop became
+enchained in the first. The needle was moved downward by the depression
+of a cord-connected foot treadle and was raised by the action of a
+spring. The fabric was fed through the stitching mechanism manually, and
+a regular rate of speed had to be maintained by the operator in order to
+produce stitches of equal length. A type of retractable thimble or
+presser foot was used to hold the fabric down as required.</p>
+
+<p>The needle, and the entire machine, was basically an attempt to
+mechanize tambour embroidery, with which the inventor was quite
+familiar. Although this work, which served as the machine&rsquo;s inspiration,
+was always used for decorative embroidery, Thimonnier saw the
+possibilities of using the stitch for utilitarian purposes. By 1841 he
+had 80 machines stitching army clothing in a Paris shop. But a mob of
+tailors, fearing that the invention would rob them of a livelihood,
+broke into the shop and destroyed the machines. Thimonnier fled Paris,
+penniless. Four years later he had obtained new financial help, improved
+his machine to produce 200 stitches a minute, and organized the first
+French sewing-machine company.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> The Revolution of 1848, however,
+brought this enterprise to an early end. Before new support could be
+found other inventors had appeared with better machines, and
+Thimonnier&rsquo;s was passed by. In addition to the two French patents
+Thimonnier also received a British patent with his associate Jean Marie
+Magnin in 1848 and one in the United States in 1850. He achieved no
+financial gain from either of these and died a poor man.</p>
+
+<p>While Thimonnier was developing his chainstitch machine in France,
+Walter Hunt,<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> perhaps best described as a Yankee mechanical genius,
+was working on a different kind of sewing machine in the United States.
+Sometime between 1832 and 1834 he produced at his shop in New York a
+machine that made a lockstitch.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> This stitch was the direct result of
+the mechanical method devised to produce the stitching and represented
+the first occasion an inventor had not attempted to reproduce a hand
+stitch. The lockstitch required two threads, one passing through a loop
+in <a name="corr_2" id="corr_2"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: the the">the</ins> and both interlocking in the heart of the seam. At the time
+Hunt did not consider the sewing machine any more promising than several
+other inventions that he had in mind, and, after demonstrating that the
+machine would sew, he sold his interest in it for a small sum and did
+not bother to patent it.</p>
+
+<p>A description&mdash;one of few ever published&mdash;and sketch of a rebuilt Hunt
+machine (fig. 9) appeared in an article in the <i>Sewing Machine News</i> in
+1881.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> The important element in the Hunt invention was an eye-pointed
+needle working in combination with a shuttle carrying a second thread.
+Future inventors were thus no longer hampered by the erroneous idea that
+the sewing machine must imitate the human hands and fingers. Though
+Hunt&rsquo;s machine stitched short, straight seams with speed and accuracy,
+it could not sew curved or angular work. Its stitching was not
+continuous, but had to be reset at the end of a short run. The validity
+of Hunt&rsquo;s claim as the inventor of the lockstitch and the prescribed
+method of making it was argued many times, especially during the Elias
+Howe patent suits of the 1850s. The decision against Hunt was not a
+question of invention,<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> but one of right to ownership or control.
+Hunt did little to promote his sewing machine and sold it together with
+the right to patent to George A. Arrowsmith.</p>
+
+<div style="width: 600px;" class="figcenter">
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_10" id="fig_10"></a>
+<img src="images/i030a.png" width="300" height="438" alt="Figure 10." title="Figure 10." />
+</div>
+<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
+<p class="caption">Figure 10.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Madersperger&rsquo;s</span> 1839 sewing machine.
+Madersperger&rsquo;s machine consisted of two major parts: the frame, which
+held the material, and the stitching mechanism, called the hand. The
+hand shown here is an original model. (<i>Photo courtesy of Technisches
+Museum f&uuml;r Industrie und Gewerbe, Vienna.</i>)</p></div>
+<img src="images/i030b.png" width="600" height="485" alt="Figure 10." title="Figure 10." />
+</div>
+
+
+<p style="clear:both;"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>For over fifteen years, from the mid-1830s to the early 1850s, the
+machine dropped out of sight. When the sewing-machine litigation
+developed in the 1850s, the I. M. Singer company searched out the Hunt
+machine, had the inventor rebuild one,<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> and attempted to use this to
+break the Howe patent. The plan did not work. The Honorable Charles
+Mason, Patent Commissioner, reported:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>When the first inventor allows his discovery to slumber for
+eighteen years, with no probability of its ever being brought into
+useful activity, and when it is only resurrected to supplant and
+strangle an invention which has been given to the public, and which
+has been made practically useful, all reasonable presumption should
+be in favor of the inventor who has been the means of conferring
+the real benefit upon the world.<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a></p></div>
+
+<p>Hunt&rsquo;s machine was an invention of the 1830s, but only because of the
+patent litigation was it ever heard of again.</p>
+
+<p>During the time that a potentially successful sewing machine was being
+invented and forgotten in America, Josef Madersperger of Austria made a
+second attempt to solve the mechanical stitching problem. In 1839 he
+received a second patent on a machine entirely different from his 1814
+effort. It was similar to Hunt&rsquo;s in that it used an eye-pointed needle
+and passed a thread through the loop of the needle-thread&mdash;the thread
+carried by the needle&mdash;to lock the stitch. Madersperger&rsquo;s machine was a
+multiple-needle quilting machine. The threaded needles penetrated the
+fabric from below and were retracted, leaving the loops on the surface.
+A thread was drawn through the loops to produce what the inventor termed
+a chain. The first two stitches were twisted before insertion into the
+next two, producing a type of twisted lockstitch. The mechanism for
+feeding the cloth was faulty, however, and the inventor himself stated
+in the specifications that much remained to perfect and simplify it
+before its general application. (This machine was illustrated [fig. 10]
+in the <i>Sewing Machine Times</i>, October 25, 1907, and mistakenly referred
+to as the 1814 model.) Madersperger realized no financial gain from
+either venture and died in a poorhouse in 1850.</p>
+
+<p>The first efforts of the 1840s reflected the work of the earlier years.
+In England, Edward Newton and Thomas Archbold invented and patented a
+machine on May 4, 1841, for tambouring or ornamenting the backs of
+gloves. Their machine used a hook on the upper surface to catch the loop
+of thread, but an eye-pointed needle from underneath was used to carry
+the thread up through the fabric. The machine was designed to use three
+needles for three rows of chainstitching, if required. Although the
+machine was capable of stitching two fabrics together, it was never
+contemplated as a sewing machine in the present use of the term. Their
+British patent 8,948 stated it was for &ldquo;improvements in producing
+ornamental or tambour work in the manufacture of gloves.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The earliest American patent specifically recorded as a sewing machine
+was U.S. patent 2,466, issued to John J. Greenough on February 21, 1842.
+His machine was a short-thread model that made both the running stitch
+and the backstitch. It used the two-pointed needle, with eye at
+mid-length, which was passed back and forth through the material by
+means of a pair of pincers on each side of the seam. The pincers opened
+and closed automatically. The material to be sewn was held in clamps
+which moved it forward between the pincers to form a running stitch or
+moved it alternately backward and forward to produce a backstitch. The
+clamps were attached to a rack that automatically fed the material at a
+predetermined rate according to the length of stitch required. Since the
+machine was designed for leather or other hard material, the needle was
+preceded by an awl, which pierced a hole. The machine had a weight to
+draw out the thread and a stop-motion to stop the machinery when a
+thread broke or became too short. The needle was threaded with a short
+length of thread and required frequent refilling. Only straight seams
+could be stitched. The feed was continuous to the length of the rack
+bar; then it had to be reset. The motions were all obtained from the
+revolution of a crank. It is not believed that any machines, other than
+the patent model (fig. 11), were ever made. Little is known of Greenough
+other than his name.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_11" id="fig_11"></a>
+<img src="images/i033.png" width="400" height="290" alt="Figure 11." title="Figure 11." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 11.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Greenough&rsquo;s patent model</span>, 1842. (Smithsonian
+photo 45525-G.)</p></div>
+
+<p>In the succeeding year, on March 4, 1843, Benjamin W. Bean received the
+second American sewing-machine patent, U.S. patent 2,982. Like
+Greenough&rsquo;s, this machine made a running stitch, but by a different
+method. In Bean&rsquo;s machine the fabric was fed between the teeth of a
+series of gears. Held in a groove in the gears was a peculiarly shaped
+needle bent in two places to permit it to be held in place by the gears
+and with a point at one end and the eye at the opposite end, as in a
+common hand needle. The action of the gears caused the fabric to be
+forced onto and through the threaded needle. Indefinite straight seams
+could be stitched as the fabric was continuously forced off the needle
+by the turning gears (fig. 12). A screw clamp held the machine to a
+table or other work surface. Machines of this and similar types
+reportedly had some limited usage in the dyeing and bleaching mills,<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a>
+where lengths of fabric were stitched together before processing.
+Improved versions of Bean&rsquo;s machine were to be patented in subsequent
+years in England and America. The same principle was also used in home
+machines two decades later.</p>
+
+<p>The third sewing-machine patent on record in the United States Patent
+Office is patent 3,389 issued on December 27, 1843, to George H.
+Corliss, better remembered as the inventor and manufacturer of the
+Corliss steam engine. It was his interest in the sewing machine,
+however, that eventually directed his attention to the steam engine.</p>
+
+<p>Corliss had a general store at Greenwich, New York. A customer&rsquo;s
+complaint that the boots he had purchased split at the seams made
+Corliss wonder why someone had not invented a machine to sew stronger
+seams than hand-sewn ones. He considered the problem of sewing leather,
+analyzing the steps required to make the saddler&rsquo;s stitch, one popularly
+used in boots and shoes. He concluded that a sewing machine to do this
+type of work must first perforate the leather, then draw the threads
+through the holes, and finally secure the stitches by pulling the
+threads tight. The machine Corliss invented (fig. 13) was of the same
+general type as Greenough&rsquo;s, except that two two-pointed needles were
+required to make the saddler&rsquo;s stitch. This stitch was composed of two
+running stitches made simultaneously, one from each side.<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> The
+machine used two awls to pierce the holes through which the needles
+passed; finger levers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> approached from opposite sides, seized the
+needles, pulled the threads firmly, and passed the needles through to
+repeat the operation. The working model that Corliss completed could
+unite two pieces of heavy leather at the rate of 20 stitches per minute.</p>
+
+<p>Corliss, lacking capital, went to Providence, Rhode Island, in 1844 to
+secure backers. After months without success, he was forced to abandon
+the sewing machine and accept employment as a draftsman and designer.
+Though he considered himself a failure, this change of employment placed
+him on the threshold of his more rewarding life work, improvement of the
+steam engine.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a></p>
+
+<p>On July 22, 1844, James Rodgers was granted U.S. patent 3,672, the
+fourth American sewing-machine patent. The patent model is not known to
+be in existence, but this machine was of minor importance for it offered
+only a negligible change in the Bean running-stitch machine. The same
+corrugated gears were used but were placed in different positions so
+that one bend in the needle was eliminated. When Bean secured a reissue
+of his patent in 1849, he had adapted it to use a straight needle.
+Rodgers&rsquo; machine is not known to have had any commercial success,
+although this type of machine experienced a brief period of popularity.
+By the early 1900s, however, the running-stitch machine was so little
+known that when one was illustrated in the <i>Sewing Machine Times</i> in
+1907<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> it excited more curiosity than any of the other early types.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_12" id="fig_12"></a>
+<img src="images/i037.png" width="300" height="386" alt="Figure 12." title="Figure 12." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 12.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Bean&rsquo;s patent model</span>, 1843. (Smithsonian photo
+42490-C.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_13" id="fig_13"></a>
+<img src="images/i038.png" width="300" height="386" alt="Figure 13." title="Figure 13." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 13.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Corliss&rsquo; patent model</span>, 1843. The piece of
+wood in the foreground is an enlarged model of the needle. (Smithsonian
+photo 42490.)</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">On December 7, 1844, the same year that Rodgers secured his American
+patent, John Fisher and James Gibbons were granted British patent 10,424
+for &ldquo;certain improvements in the manufacture of figured or ornamental
+lace, or net, or other fabrics.&rdquo; From this superficial description of
+its work, the device might seem to be just another tambouring machine.
+It was not. Designed specifically for ornamental stitching, the machine
+made a two-thread stitch using an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle.<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a>
+Several sets of needles and shuttles worked simultaneously. The needles
+were secured to a needlebar placed beneath the fabric. The shuttles were
+pointed at both ends to pass through each succeeding new loop formed by
+the needles. Each shuttle was activated by two vibrating arms worked by
+cams. Each needle was curved in the form of a bow, and in addition to
+the eye at the point each also had a second eye at the bottom of the
+curve. The shape of the needle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> together with the position of the eyes
+permitted the pointed shuttle, carrying the second thread, to pass
+freely through the loop in the ascending needle thread. The fabric was
+carried by a pair of cloth rollers, capable of sliding in a horizontal
+plane in both a lateral and a lengthwise direction. These combined
+movements were sufficient to enable the operator to produce almost every
+embroidered design. The ornamenting, which might be a yarn, cord, or
+gimp, was carried by the shuttle thread. There was no tension on the
+shuttle thread, which was held in place by the thread from the needle.
+The stitch produced was a form of couching.<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> It was in no sense a
+lockstitch. Fisher, who was the inventor, readily admitted at a later
+date that he had not had the slightest idea of producing a sewing
+machine, in the utilitarian meaning of the term. Although it has not
+been established that this machine was ever put into practical
+operation, Fisher&rsquo;s invention was to have a far-reaching effect on the
+development of the sewing machine in England.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="fnheader">FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Charles M. Karch</span>, <i>Needles: Historical and Descriptive</i> (12
+Census U.S., vol. X, 1902), pp. 429-432.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Florence Lewis May</span>, <i>Hispanic Lace and Lace Making</i> (New
+York, 1939), pp. 267-271.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Diderot&rsquo;s <i>L&rsquo;Encyclop&eacute;die, ou dictionnaire raisonn&eacute; des
+sciences, des arts et des m&eacute;tiers ...</i>, vol. II (1763), Plates Brodeur,
+plate II.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The term &ldquo;crochet,&rdquo; as used today, became the modern
+counterpart of the Spanish <i>punto de aguja</i> about the second quarter of
+the 19th century.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> <i>Sewing Machine News</i> (1880), vol. 1, no. 7, p. 2.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> This model of Saint&rsquo;s machine was bequeathed by Mr. Wilson
+to the South Kensington Museum, London, England.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> <i>Sewing Machine News</i> (1880), vol. 1, no. 8, p. 2.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Erich Luth</span>, <i>Ein Mayener Strumpfwirker, Balthasar Krems,
+1760-1813, Erfinder der N&auml;hmaschine</i>, p. 10, states that the machine
+used an eye-pointed needle. <span class="smcap">Wilhelm Renters</span>, <i>Praktisches <a name="corr_1" id="corr_1"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: wissen">Wissen</ins> von der
+N&auml;hmaschine</i>, p. 4, states that Krems used a hooked needle. Renters
+probably mistook the hooked retaining pin for the needle.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Dr. Dahmen, Burgermeister of Mayen, stated in a letter of
+October 8, 1963, that the original Krems machine was turned over to the
+officials of Mayen by Krems&rsquo; descendants about the turn of the century.
+He verified that the machine used an eye-pointed needle. About 1920 the
+machine was placed in the Eifelmuseum in Genovevaburg; some of the
+unessential parts were restored. The machine now at this museum is the
+one pictured in Luth&rsquo;s book. A replica of the machine is in the
+Deutsches Museum, Munich, Germany.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Josef Madersperger</span>, <i>Beschreibung einer N&auml;hmaschine</i>
+(Vienna, ca. 1816). The exact date of this small booklet is not known.
+In the booklet Madersperger reports that he had received a patent in
+1814 for his <i>first</i> machine adapted to straight sewing. However, the
+machine described and illustrated in this booklet was one that could
+stitch semicircles and small figures. In <i>Kunst und Gewerbeblatt</i>, a
+periodical (Munich, Germany, 1817, pp. 336-338), reference is made to
+the Madersperger machine and a statement to the effect that the inventor
+had published a leaflet describing his machine. The leaflet referred to
+is believed to be the one under discussion. For this reason it must have
+been published between 1814 and 1817, therefore ca. 1816. The only copy
+of this booklet known to this author is in the New York Public Library.
+It was probably not known to authors Luth and Renters. The author wishes
+to thank Miss Rita J. Adrosko of her staff for her important help in
+translating these German publications.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> <i>Sewing Machine Times</i> (1907), vol. 26, no. 865, p. 1.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> There are no known models of these early Madersperger
+machines in existence. Although the <i>Sewing Machine Times</i> reported in
+the 1907 issue that the 1814 sewing machine was then on exhibition in
+the Museum of the Vienna Polytechnic, the illustration shown was of
+Madersperger&rsquo;s 1839 machine. In a letter from the director of the
+Technisches Museum f&uuml;r Industrie und Gewerbe in Vienna, received in
+1962, it was stated that the original 1814 Madersperger machine was in
+their museum. The photographs that were sent, however, were of the 1839
+machine. This machine is entirely different from the 1814-1817 machine,
+as can readily be seen by the reader (figs. 7 and 10).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> <span class="smcap">John P. Stambaugh</span>, <i>A History of the Sewing Machine</i>
+(Hartford, Conn., 1872), p. 13; <i>Sewing Machine News</i> (July 1880), vol.
+1, no. 12, p. 4.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> &ldquo;Sewing Machines,&rdquo; <i>Johnson&rsquo;s Universal Cyclopaedia</i> (New
+York, 1878), vol. 4, p. 205. The 1874 edition does not include this
+reference to Rev. John Adam Dodge.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Letters to the author from the Vermont Historical Society
+(Nov. 13, 1953) and the Bennington Historical Museum and Art Gallery
+(May 2, 1953).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Edmund Burke.</span> Commissioner of Patents, <i>List of Patents
+for Inventions and Designs Issued by the United States from 1790 to
+1847</i> (Washington, 1847).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> See Barthelemy Thimonnier&rsquo;s biographical sketch, p. 137.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> French patent issued to Barthelemy Thimonnier and M.
+Ferrand (who was a tutor at l&rsquo;Ecole des Mines, Saint-Etienne, and helped
+finance the patent), July 17, 1830.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> The company was located at Villefranche-sur-Sa&ocirc;ne, but no
+name is recorded. See J. Granger, <i>Thimonnier et la machine &agrave; coudre</i>
+(1943), p. 16.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> See Walter Hunt&rsquo;s biographical sketch, p. 138.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> The earliest known reference in print to Walter Hunt&rsquo;s
+sewing machine is in <i>Sewing by Machinery: An Exposition of the History
+of Patentees of Various Sewing Machines and of the Rights of the Public</i>
+(I. M. Singer &amp; Co., 1853). A more detailed story of Hunt&rsquo;s invention is
+in <i>Sewing Machine News</i> (1880-81), vol. 2, no. 2, p. 4; no. 4, p. 5;
+and no. 8, pp. 3 and 8.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> Vol. 2, no. 8, p. 3.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> In the opinion and decision of C. Mason, Commissioner of
+the Patent Office, offered on May 24, 1854, for the Hunt vs. Howe
+interference suit, Mason stated: &ldquo;He [Hunt] proves that in 1834 or 1835
+he contrived a machine by which he actually effected his purpose of
+sewing cloth with considerable success.&rdquo;</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> The rebuilt machine, according to a letter to the author
+from B. F. Thompson of the Singer company, is believed to have been one
+of the machines lost in a Singer factory fire at Elizabethport, N.J., in
+1890.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Op. cit. (footnote 24).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Edward H. Knight</span>, <i>Sewing Machines</i>, vol. 3 of <i>Knight&rsquo;s
+American Mechanical Dictionary</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> A seam using the saddler&rsquo;s stitch appears as a neat line
+of touching stitches on both sides. Even when made by hand, it is
+sometimes misidentified by the casual observer as the lockstitch because
+of the uniformity of both sides. If the saddler&rsquo;s stitch was formed of
+threads of two different colors, the even stitches on one side of the
+seam and the odd stitches on the reverse side would be of one color, and
+vice versa.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> <i>The Life and Works of George H. Corliss</i>, privately
+printed for Mary Corliss by the American Historical Society, 1930. The
+Corliss family records were turned over to the Baker Library, Harvard
+University. In a letter addressed to this author by Robert W. Lovett of
+the Manuscripts Division on August 2, 1954, it was reported that there
+was a record on their Corliss card to the effect that a model of his
+sewing machine, received with the collection, was turned over to the
+Massachusetts Institute of Technology; however, Mr. Lovett also stated
+that from a manuscript memoir of Mr. Corliss that it would seem that he
+developed only the one machine&mdash;the patent model. In a letter dated
+November 15, 1954, Stanley Backer, assistant professor of mechanical
+engineering, stated that after extensive inquiries they were unable to
+locate the model at M.I.T. In 1964, Dr. Robert Woodbury, of M.I.T.,
+turned over to the Smithsonian Institution the official copies of the
+Corliss drawings and the specifications which had been awarded to the
+inventor by the Patent Office. It is possible that this may have been
+the material noted on the Harvard University card as having been
+transferred to M.I.T.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> <i>Sewing Machine Times</i> (July 10, 1907), vol. 26, no. 858,
+p. 1.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> This is the earliest known patent using the combination of
+an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle to form a stitch.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> In embroidery, couching is the technique of laying a
+decorative thread on the surface of the fabric and stitching it into
+place with a second less-conspicuous thread.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>Chapter Two</i><br /><br /></h2>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_14" id="fig_14"></a>
+<img src="images/i042.png" width="600" height="342" alt="Figure 14." title="Figure 14." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 14.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Howe&rsquo;s prepatent model</span> of 1845, and the box
+used by the inventor to carry the machine to England in 1847.
+(Smithsonian photo 45506-B.)</p></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p>
+<h2>Elements of a Successful Machine</h2>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The requirements </span>for producing a successful, practical sewing machine
+were a support for the cloth, a needle to carry the thread through the
+fabric and a combining device to form the stitch, a feeding mechanism to
+permit one stitch to follow another, tension controls to provide an even
+delivery of thread, and the related mechanism to insure the precise
+performance of each operation in its proper sequence. Weisenthal had
+added a point to the eye-end of the needle, Saint supported the fabric
+by placing it in a horizontal position with a needle entering
+vertically, Duncan successfully completed a chainstitch for embroidery
+purposes, Chapman used a needle with an eye at its point and did not
+pass it completely through the fabric, Krems stitched circular caps with
+an eye-pointed needle used with a hook to form a chainstitch, <a name="corr_3" id="corr_3"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: Thimmonier">Thimonnier</ins>
+used the hooked needle to form a chainstitch on a fabric laid
+horizontally, and Hunt created a new stitch that was more readily
+adapted to sewing by machine than the hand stitches had been, but,
+although each may have had the germ of an idea, a successful machine had
+not evolved. There were to be hundreds of patents issued in an attempt
+to solve these and the numerous minor problems that would ensue. But the
+problems were solved. And, in spite of its Old World inception, the
+successful sewing machine can be credited as an American invention.</p>
+
+<p>Although the invention of the practical sewing machine, like most
+important inventions, was a many-man project, historians generally give
+full credit to Elias Howe, Jr. Though such credit may be overly
+generous, Howe&rsquo;s important role in this history cannot be denied.</p>
+
+<p>Elias Howe, Jr., was born on a farm near Spencer, Massachusetts, but he
+left home at an early age to learn the machinist&rsquo;s trade.<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> After
+serving an apprenticeship in Lowell, he moved to Boston. In the late
+1830s, while employed in the instrument shop of Ari Davis, Howe is
+reported to have overheard a discussion concerning the need for a
+machine that would sew. In 1843, when illness kept him from his job for
+days at a time, he remembered the conversation and the promises of the
+rich reward that reputedly awaited the successful inventor. Determined
+to invent such a machine, he finally managed to produce sufficient
+results to interest George Fisher in buying a one-half interest in his
+proposed invention. By April 1845, Howe&rsquo;s machine (fig. 14) was used to
+sew all the seams of two woolen suits for men&rsquo;s clothing. He continued
+to demonstrate his machine but found that interest was, at best,
+indifferent.</p>
+
+<p>Nevertheless, Howe completed a second machine (fig. 15), which he
+submitted with his application for a patent. The fifth United States
+patent (No. 4,750) for a sewing machine was issued to him on September
+10, 1846. The machine used a grooved and curved eye-pointed needle
+carried by a vibrating arm, with the needle supplied with thread from a
+spool. Loops of thread from the needle were locked by a thread carried
+by a shuttle, which was moved<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> through the loop by means of
+reciprocating drivers. The cloth was suspended in a vertical position,
+impaled on pins projecting from a baster plate, which moved
+intermittently under the needle by means of a toothed wheel. The length
+of each stitching operation depended upon the length of the baster
+plate, and the seams were necessarily straight. When the end of the
+baster plate reached the position of the needle, the machine was
+stopped. The cloth was removed from the baster plate, which was moved
+back to its original position. The cloth was moved forward on the pins,
+and the seam continued.</p>
+
+<p>In his patent specifications, Howe claimed the following:</p>
+
+<div class="blockhang"><p>1. The forming of the seam by carrying a thread through the cloth
+by means of a curved needle on the end of a vibrating arm, and the
+passing of a shuttle furnished with its bobbin, in the manner set
+forth, between the needle and the thread which it carried, under
+combination and arrangement of parts substantially the same with
+that described.</p>
+
+<p>2. The lifting of the thread that passes through the needle-eye by
+means of the lifting-rod, for the purpose of forming a loop of
+loose thread that is to be subsequently drawn in by the passage of
+the shuttle, as herein fully described, said lifting-rod being
+furnished with a lifting pin, and governed in its motion by the
+guide-pieces and other devices, arranged and operating
+substantially as described.</p>
+
+<p>3. The holding of the thread that is given out by the shuttle, so
+as to prevent its unwinding from the shuttle-bobbin after the
+shuttle has passed through the loop, said thread being held by
+means of the lever or slipping-piece, as herein made known, or in
+any other manner that is substantially the same in its operation
+and result.</p>
+
+<p>4. The manner of arranging and combining the small lever with the
+sliding box, in combination with the spring-piece, for the purpose
+of tightening the stitch as the needle is retracted.</p>
+
+<p>5. The holding of the cloth to be sewed by the use of a
+baster-plate furnished with points for that purpose, and with holes
+enabling it to operate as a rack in the manner set forth, thereby
+carrying the cloth forward and dispensing altogether with the
+necessity of basting the parts together.</p></div>
+
+<p>The five claims, which were allowed Howe in his patent, have been quoted
+to show that he did not claim the invention of the eye-pointed needle,
+for which he has so often been credited. The court judgment<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> that
+upheld Howe&rsquo;s claim to his patented right to control the use of the
+eye-pointed needle in combination with a shuttle to form a lockstitch
+was mistakenly interpreted by some as verifying control of the
+eye-pointed needle itself.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_15" id="fig_15"></a>
+<img src="images/i047.png" width="400" height="474" alt="Figure 15." title="Figure 15." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 15.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Howe&rsquo;s patent model</span>, 1846. (Smithsonian photo
+45525-B.)</p></div>
+
+<p>After patenting his invention, Howe spent three discouraging years in
+both the United States and in England trying to interest manufacturers
+in building his sewing machine, under license. Finally, for &pound;250
+sterling, he sold the British patent rights to William Thomas and
+further agreed to adapt the machine to Thomas&rsquo; manufacture of umbrellas
+and corsets.<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> This did not prove to be a financial success for Howe
+and by 1849 he was back in the United States, once again without funds.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_16" id="fig_16"></a>
+<img src="images/i048.png" width="600" height="489" alt="Figure 16." title="Figure 16." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 16.&mdash;<span class="smcap">An enlargement</span> of the stitching area.
+(Smithsonian photo 45525-B.)</p></div>
+
+<p>On his return, Howe was surprised to find that other inventors were
+engaged in the sewing-machine problem and that sewing machines were
+being manufactured for sale. The sixth United States sewing-machine
+patent (No. 5,942) had been issued to John A. Bradshaw on November 28,
+1848, for a machine specifically stated as correcting the defects in the
+E. Howe patent. Bradshaw did not purport that his machine was a new
+invention. His specifications read:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The curved needle used in Howe&rsquo;s machine will not by itself form
+the loop in the thread, which is necessary for the flying bobbin,
+with its case, to pass through, and has, therefore, to be aided in
+that operation by a lifting-pin, with the necessary mechanism to
+operate it. This is a very bungling device, and is a great
+incumbrance to the action of the machine, being an impediment in
+the way of introducing the cloth to be sewed, difficult to keep
+properly adjusted, and very frequently gets entangled between the
+thread and the needle, by which the latter is frequently broken.
+This accident happens very often, not withstanding all the
+precaution which it is possible for the most careful operator to
+exercise; and inasmuch as the delay occasioned thereby is very
+considerable, and the needles costly and difficult to replace, it
+is therefore very important that their breaking in this manner be
+prevented, which in my machine is done in the most effectual manner
+by dispensing with the lifting-pin altogether, the loop for the
+flying bobbin to pass through being made with certainty and of the
+proper form by means of my angular needle moved in a particular
+manner just before the flying-bobbin case is thrown. The shuttle
+and its bobbin for giving off the thread in Howe&rsquo;s machine are very
+defective ... my neat and simple bobbin-case ... gives off its
+thread with certainty and uniformity.... The baster-plate in the
+Howe machine is very inconvenient and troublesome ... in my machine
+... the clamp ... is a very simple and efficient device.... The
+Howe machine is stationary, and the baster-plate or cloth-holder
+progressive. The Bradshaw machine is progressive and the
+cloth-holder stationary.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Bradshaw&rsquo;s patent accurately described some of the defects of the Howe
+machine, but other inventors were later to offer better solutions to the
+problems.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"><a name="fig_17" id="fig_17"></a>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/i051a.png" width="300" height="290" alt="Figure 17." title="Figure 17." />
+</div>
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;">
+<p class="caption">Figure 17.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Morey and Johnson</span> sewing machine, 1849.
+Below: The machine is marked with the name of its maker, Safford &amp;
+Williams. The number 49 is a serial number. Missing parts have been
+replaced with plastic. (Smithsonian photo 48400; brass plate: 48400-H.)</p>
+<img src="images/i051b.png" width="300" height="135" alt="Figure 17." title="Figure 17." />
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">Although the Bradshaw machine was not in current manufacture, a machine
+based on it received the seventh United States sewing-machine patent.
+Patent 6,099 was issued to Charles Morey and Joseph B. Johnson on
+February 6, 1849. Their machine (fig. 17) was being offered for sale
+even before the patent was issued.</p>
+
+<p>This was the first American patent for a chainstitch machine. The stitch
+was made by an eye-pointed needle carrying the thread through the
+fabric; the thread was detained by a hook until the loop was enchained
+by the succeeding one. The fabric was held vertically by a baster plate
+in a manner similar to the Howe machine. Although not claimed in the
+patent description, the Morey and Johnson machine also had a bar device
+for stripping the cloth from the needle. This bar had a slight motion
+causing a yielding pressure to be exerted on the cloth. Although the
+patent was not granted until February 6, 1849, the application had been
+filed in April of the previous year. The machine was featured in the
+<i>Scientific American</i> on January 27, 1849 (fig. 18):</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Morey and Johnson Machine&mdash;These machines are very accurately
+adjusted in all their parts to work in harmony, without this they
+would be of no use. But they are now used in most of the Print
+Works and Bleach Works in New England, and especially by the East
+Boston Flour Company. It sews about one yard per minute, and we
+consider it superior to the London Sewing Machine the specification
+of which is in our possession. It [Morey and Johnson] is more
+simple&mdash;and this is a great deal.... The price of a machine and
+right to use $135.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a></p></div>
+
+<p>An improvement in the Morey and Johnson machine was patented by Jotham
+S. Conant for which he was issued a patent on May 8, 1849. Conant&rsquo;s
+machine offered a slight modification of the cloth bar and of the method
+of keeping the cloth taut during the stitching operation. No successful
+use of it is known.</p>
+
+<p>A second improvement of the Morey and Johnson patent was also issued on
+May 8, 1849; this United States patent (No. 6,439) was to John Bachelder
+for the first continuous, but intermittent, sewing mechanism. As shown
+in the patent model (fig. 19), his clothholder consisted of an endless
+belt supported by and running around three or any other suitable number
+of cylindrical rollers. A series of pointed wires projected from the
+surface of the belt near the edge immediately adjacent to the needle.
+The wires could be placed at regular or irregular distances as required.
+The shaft of one of the cylindrical<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> rollers, which supported the
+endless clothholder, carried a ratchet wheel advanced by the action of a
+pawl connected to the end of the crankshaft by a small crankpin, whose
+position or distance from the axis of rotation of the shaft could be
+adjusted.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_18" id="fig_18"></a>
+<img src="images/i053.png" width="400" height="401" alt="Figure 18." title="Figure 18." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 18.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A Morey and Johnson</span> sewing machine as
+illustrated in <i>Scientific American</i>, January 27, 1849. (Smithsonian
+photo 45771.)</p></div>
+
+<p>By this adjustment the extent of the vertical travel of the impelling
+pawl was regulated to control the length of the stitch. A spring catch
+kept the ratchet wheel in place at the end of each forward rotation of
+the wheel by the pawl. A roller placed over the endless belt at its
+middle roller pressed the cloth onto the wire points. A curved piece of
+metal was bent over and down upon the top of the belt so that the cloth,
+as it was sewed, was carried toward and against the piece by the belt.
+The cloth rose upon and over the piece and was separated from the
+points. When the machine was in motion the cloth was carried forward,
+passed under the needle, was stitched, and finally, passed the separator
+and off the belt. A vertically reciprocating, straight, eye-pointed
+needle, a horizontal supporting surface, and a yielding cloth presser
+were all used, but none were claimed as part of the patent. These were
+later specifically claimed in reissues of this patent. Bachelder&rsquo;s one
+specific claim, the endless feed belt, was not limited to belt feeding
+only. As he explained in the patent, a revolving table or a cylinder
+might be substituted.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_19" id="fig_19"></a>
+<img src="images/i054.png" width="400" height="297" alt="Figure 19." title="Figure 19." /><p class="caption">Figure 19.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Bachelder&rsquo;s patent model</span>, 1849. (Smithsonian
+photo 45572).</p></div>
+
+<p>Bachelder did not manufacture machines, but his patent was sold in the
+mid-1850s to I. M. Singer.<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> It eventually became one of the most
+important patents to be contributed to the &ldquo;Sewing-Machine Combination,&rdquo;
+a patent pool, which is discussed in more detail on pages 41 and 42.</p>
+
+<p>While new ideas and inventors continued to provide the answers to some
+of the sewing-machine problems, Elias Howe began a series of patent
+suits to sustain the rights that he felt were his. Since his interest
+had never been in constructing machines for sale, it was absolutely
+essential for Howe to protect his royalty rights in order to realize any
+return from his patent. He was reported<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> to have supervised the
+construction of 14 sewing machines at a shop<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> on Gold Street in New
+York toward the close of 1850. Sworn contemporary testimony indicates
+that the machines were of no practical use.<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> Elias stated, in his
+application for his patent extension,<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> that he made only one machine
+in 1850-51. In 1852 he advertised<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> territorial rights and machines,
+but apparently did not realize any financial success until he sold a
+half interest in his patent to George Bliss in November 1852.<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> Bliss
+later began manufacturing machines that he initially sold as &ldquo;Howe&rsquo;s
+Patent&rdquo;; however, these machines were substantially different from the
+basic Howe machine.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_20" id="fig_20"></a>
+<img src="images/i055.png" width="600" height="392" alt="Figure 20." title="Figure 20." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 20.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Blodgett &amp; Lerow sewing machine</span>, 1850, as
+manufactured by A. Bartholf, New York; the serial number of the machine
+is 19. At right, an original brass plate from the same type of machine
+with needle arm and presser foot and arm, serial number 119; the plate,
+however, does not fit the machine correctly. (Smithsonian photo 48440-D;
+brass plate: 48440-K.)</p></div>
+
+<p>On May 18, 1853, Elias Howe granted his first royalty license to
+Wheeler, Wilson &amp; Company. Within a few months licenses were also
+granted to Grover &amp; Baker; A. Bartholf; Nichols &amp; Bliss; J. A. Lerow;
+Woolridge, Keene, and Moore; and A. B. Howe, the brother of Elias. These
+licenses granted the manufacturer the right to use any part of the Howe
+patent,<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> but it did not mean that the machines were Elias Howe
+machines. When a royalty license was paid, the patent date and sometimes
+the name was stamped onto the machine. For this reason, these machines
+are sometimes mistakenly thought to be Elias Howe machines. They are
+not.</p>
+
+<p>Howe was also prevented from manufacturing a practical machine unless he
+paid a royalty to other inventors. Three of the major manufacturers and
+Howe resolved their differences by forming the &ldquo;Sewing Machine
+Combination.&rdquo; Although Howe did not enter the manufacturing competition
+for many years, he profited substantially from the royalty terms of the
+combination. In 1860, he applied for and received a seven-year extension
+on his patent.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"><a name="fig_21" id="fig_21"></a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
+<p class="caption">Figure 21.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Blodgett &amp; Lerow sewing machine</span>, 1850,
+stamped with the legend &ldquo;Goddard, Rice &amp; Co., Makers, Worcester, Mass.&rdquo;
+and the serial number 37. Below: An original brass plate marked &ldquo;No.
+38&rdquo;; this plate fits the machine perfectly. (Smithsonian photo 48440-E;
+brass plate: 48440-J.)</p>
+<img src="images/i058a.png" width="300" height="222" alt="Figure 21." title="Figure 21." />
+</div>
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/i058b.png" width="300" height="409" alt="Figure 21." title="Figure 21." />
+</div>
+</div>
+<p style="clear:both;">There were Howe family machines for sale during this period, but these
+were the ones that Amasa Howe had been manufacturing since 1853. The
+machine was an excellent one and received the highest medal for sewing
+machines, together with many flattering testimonials, at the London
+International Exhibition in 1862. After the publication of this award
+the demand for (Amasa) Howe sewing machines was greatly increased at
+home and abroad. Elias took this opportunity to gain entry into the
+manufacturing business by persuading Amasa to let him build a factory at
+Bridgeport, Connecticut, and manufacture the (Amasa) Howe machines. Two
+years passed before the factory was completed, and Amasa&rsquo;s agents were
+discouraged. The loss could have been regained, but the machines
+produced at Bridgeport were not of the quality of the earlier machines.
+Amasa attempted to rebuild the Bridgeport machines, but finally
+abandoned them and resumed manufacturing machines in New York under his
+own immediate supervision.<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> Elias formed his own company and
+continued to manufacture sewing machines. In 1867 he requested a second
+extension of his patent, but the request was refused. Elias Howe died in
+October of the same year.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, another important sewing machine of a different principle had
+also been patented in 1849. This was the machine of Sherburne C.
+Blodgett, a tailor by trade, who was supported financially by John A.
+Lerow. United States patent 6,766 was issued to both men on October 2,
+1849. In the patent, the machine was termed as &ldquo;our new &lsquo;Rotary Sewing
+Machine&rsquo;.&rdquo; The shuttle movement was continuous, revolving in a circle,
+rather than reciprocating as in the earlier machines. Automatic tension
+was initiated, restraining the slack thread from interference with the
+point of the needle.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_22" id="fig_22"></a>
+<img src="images/i060.png" width="600" height="373" alt="Figure 22." title="Figure 22." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 22.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wilson&rsquo;s prepatent model</span> for his
+reciprocating-shuttle machine, 1850. (Smithsonian photo 45525-A.)</p></div>
+
+<p>The Blodgett and Lerow machine was built by several shops. One of the
+earliest was the shop of Orson C. Phelps on Harvard Place in Boston.
+Phelps took the Blodgett and Lerow machine to the sixth exhibition of
+the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association in September 1850 and
+won a silver medal and this praise, &ldquo;This machine performed admirably;
+it is an exceedingly ingenious and compact machine, able to perform
+tailor&rsquo;s sewing beautifully and thoroughly.&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> Although Phelps had won
+the earliest known premium for a sewing machine, and although the
+machine was produced commercially to a considerable extent (figs. 20 and
+21), one outstanding flaw in its operation could not be overlooked. As
+the shuttle passed around the six-inch circular shuttle race, it put a
+twist in the thread (or took one out if the direction was reversed) at
+each revolution. This caused a constant breaking of the thread, a
+condition that could not be rectified without changing the principle of
+operation. Such required changes were later to lead I. M. Singer,
+another well-known name, into the work of improving this machine.</p>
+
+<p>Also exhibited at the same 1850 mechanics fair was the machine of Allen
+B. Wilson. Wilson&rsquo;s machine received only a bronze medal, but his
+inventive genius was to have a far greater effect on the development of
+the practical sewing machine than the work of Blodgett and Lerow. A. B.
+Wilson<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> was one of the ablest of the early inventors in the field of
+mechanical stitching, and probably the most original.</p>
+
+<p>Wilson, a native of Willett, New York, was a young cabinetmaker at
+Adrian, Michigan, in 1847 when he first conceived of a machine that
+would sew. He was apparently unaware of parallel efforts by inventors in
+distant New England. After an illness, he moved to Pittsfield,
+Massachusetts, and pursued his idea in earnest. By November 1848 he had
+produced the basic drawings for a machine that would make a lockstitch.
+The needle, piercing the cloth, left a loop of thread below the seam. A
+shuttle carrying a second thread passed through the loop, and as the
+tension was adjusted a completed lockstitch was formed (fig. 22).
+Wilson&rsquo;s shuttle was pointed on both ends to form a stitch on both its
+forward and backward motion, a decided improvement over the shuttles of
+Hunt and Howe, which formed stitches in only one direction. After each
+stitch the cloth was advanced for the next stitch by a sliding bar
+against which the cloth was held by a stationary presser. While the
+needle was still in the cloth and holding it, the sliding bar returned
+for a fresh grip on the cloth.</p>
+
+<p>Wilson made a second machine, on the same principle, and applied for a
+patent. He was approached by the owners of the Bradshaw 1848 patent,
+who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> claimed control of the double-pointed shuttle. Although this claim
+was without justification, as can be seen by examining the Bradshaw
+patent specifications, Wilson did not have sufficient funds to fight the
+claim. In order to avoid a suit, he relinquished to A. P. Kline and
+Edward Lee, a one-half interest in his U.S. patent 7,776 which was
+issued on November 12, 1850 (fig. 23).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_23" id="fig_23"></a>
+<img src="images/i063.png" width="400" height="302" alt="Figure 23." title="Figure 23." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 23.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wilson&rsquo;s patent model</span>, 1850. (Smithsonian
+photo 45504-H.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Inventor Wilson had been associated with Kline and Lee (E. Lee &amp; Co.)
+for only a few months, when, on November 25, 1850, he agreed to sell his
+remaining interest to his partners for $2,000. He retained only limited
+rights for New Jersey and for Massachusetts. The sale was fruitless for
+the inventor, as no payment was ever made. How much money E. E. Lee &amp;
+Co. realized from the Wilson machine is difficult to determine, but they
+ran numerous ads in the 1851 and 1852 issues of <i>Scientific American</i>. A
+typical one reads:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>A. B. Wilson&rsquo;s Sewing Machine, justly allowed to be the cheapest
+and best now in use, patented November 12, 1850; can be seen on
+exhibition at 195 and 197 Broadway (formerly the Franklin House,
+Room 23, third floor) or to E. E. Lee &amp; Co., Earle&rsquo;s Hotel. Rights
+for territory or machines can be had by applying to George R.
+Chittenden, Agent.<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a></p></div>
+
+<p>Another reads:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>A. B. Wilson&rsquo;s Sewing Machine ... the best and only practical
+sewing machine&mdash;not larger than a lady&rsquo;s work box&mdash;for the trifling
+sum of $35.<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a></p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_24" id="fig_24"></a>
+<img src="images/i064a.png" width="400" height="391" alt="Figure 24." title="Figure 24." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 24.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wilson&rsquo;s prepatent model</span> for his rotary hook,
+1851. (Smithsonian photo 45506-E.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_25" id="fig_25"></a>
+<img src="images/i064b.png" width="400" height="256" alt="Figure 25." title="Figure 25." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 25.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wilson&rsquo;s rotary-hook patent model</span>, 1851.
+(Smithsonian photo 45505-B.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Wilson severed relations with Lee and Kline in early 1851 shortly after
+meeting Nathaniel Wheeler, who was to become his partner in a happier,
+more profitable enterprise involving the sewing machine.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_26" id="fig_26"></a>
+<img src="images/i065.png" width="400" height="231" alt="Figure 26." title="Figure 26." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 26.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wilson&rsquo;s</span> stationary-bobbin patent model,
+1852; a commercial machine was used since Wheeler, Wilson, Co. had begun
+manufacturing machines the previous year. (Smithsonian photo 45504-B.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Wilson, with his two partners, was occupying a room in the old Sun
+Building at 128 Fulton Street, when Wheeler, on a business trip to New
+York City, learned of the Wilson sewing machine. Wheeler examined the
+machine, saw its possibilities, and at once contracted with E. Lee &amp; Co.
+to make 500 of them. At the same time he engaged Wilson to go with him
+to Watertown, Connecticut, to perfect the machine and supervise its
+manufacture. Meanwhile, Wilson had been working on a substitute for the
+shuttle. He showed his model of the device, which became known as the
+rotary hook, to Wheeler who was so convinced of its superiority that he
+decided to develop this new machine and leave Wilson&rsquo;s first machine to
+the others, who, by degrees, had become its owners.</p>
+
+<p>Wilson now applied all his effort to improving the rotary hook, for
+which he received his second patent on August 12, 1851 (figs. 24 and
+25). Wheeler, his two partners Warren and Woodruff, and Wilson now
+formed a new copartnership&mdash;Wheeler, Wilson, and Company. They began the
+manufacture of the machines under the patent, which combined the rotary
+hook and a reciprocating bobbin. The rotary hook extended or opened more
+widely the loop of the needle thread, while a reciprocating bobbin
+carried its thread through the extended loop. To avoid litigation which
+the reciprocating bobbin might have caused, Wilson contrived his third
+outstanding invention&mdash;the stationary bobbin. This was a feature of the
+first machine produced by the new company in 1851, though the patent
+for the stationary bobbin was not issued until June 15, 1852 (fig. 26).</p>
+
+<p>In all reciprocating-shuttle machines a certain loss of power is
+incurred in driving forward, stopping, and bringing back the shuttle at
+each stitch; also, the machines are rather noisy, owing to the striking
+of the driver against the shuttle at each stroke. These objections were
+removed by Wilson&rsquo;s rotary hook and stationary bobbin. The locking of
+the needle thread with the bobbin thread was accomplished, not by
+driving a shuttle through the loop of the needle thread, but by passing
+that loop under the bobbin. The driving shaft carried the circular
+rotary hook, one of the sewing machine&rsquo;s most beautiful contrivances.
+The success of the machine is indicated in an article that appeared in
+the June 1853 issue of <i>Scientific American</i>:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>There are 300 of these machines now in operation in various parts
+of the country, and the work which they can perform cannot be
+surpassed.... The time must soon come when every private family
+that has much sewing to do, will have one of these neat and perfect
+machines; indeed many private families have them now.... The price
+of one all complete is $125; every machine is made under the eye of
+the inventor at the company&rsquo;s machine shop, Watertown, Connecticut,
+so that every one is warranted ... agreement between Mr. Howe and
+Messrs. Wheeler, Wilson &amp; Co., so every customer will be perfectly
+protected....<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a></p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fig_27" id="fig_27"></a>
+<img src="images/i068.png" width="400" height="203" alt="Figure 27." title="Figure 27." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 27.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wilson&rsquo;s</span> four-motion-feed patent model, 1854,
+is not known to be in existence; this is a commercial machine of the
+period. The plate is stamped &ldquo;A. B. Wilson, Patented Aug. 12, 1851,
+Watertown, Conn., No. 1....&rdquo; (Smithsonian photo 45504.)</p></div>
+
+<p>This agreement was important to sales, as Elias Howe was known to have
+sued purchasers of machines, as well as rival inventors and companies.</p>
+
+<p>The business was on a substantial basis by October 1853, and a stock
+company was formed under the name of Wheeler &amp; Wilson Manufacturing
+Company.<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> A little more than a year later, on December 19, 1854,
+Wilson&rsquo;s fourth important patent (U.S. patent 12,116)&mdash;for the
+four-motion cloth feed&mdash;was issued to him (fig. 27). In this
+development, the flat-toothed surface in contact with the cloth moved
+forward carrying the cloth with it; then it dropped a little, so as not
+to touch the cloth; next it moved backward; then in the fourth motion it
+pushed up against the cloth and was ready to repeat the forward
+movements. This simple and effective feed method is still used today,
+with only minor modifications, in almost every sewing machine. This feed
+with the rotary hook and the stationary circular-disk bobbin, completed
+the essential features of Wilson&rsquo;s machine. It was original and
+fundamentally different from all other machines of that time.</p>
+
+<p>The resulting Wheeler and Wilson machine made a lockstitch by means of a
+curved eye-pointed needle carried by a vibrating arm projecting from a
+rock shaft connected by link and eccentric strap with an eccentric on
+the rotating hook shaft. This shaft had at its outer end the rotary
+hook, provided with a point adapted to enter the loop of needle thread.
+As the hook rotated, it passed into and drew down the loop of
+needle-thread, which was held by means of a loop check, while the point
+of the hook entered a new loop. When the first loop was cast off&mdash;the
+face of the hook being beveled for that purpose&mdash;it was drawn upward by
+the action of the hook upon the loop through which it was then passing.
+During the rotation of the hook each loop was passed around a disk
+bobbin provided with the second thread and serving the part of the
+shuttle in other machines. The four-motion feed was actuated in this
+machine by means of a spring bar and a cam in conjunction with the
+mandrel.</p>
+
+<p>From the beginning, Wheeler and Wilson had looked beyond the use of the
+sewing machine solely by manufacturers and had seen the demand for a
+light-running, lightweight machine for sewing in the home. Wilson&rsquo;s
+inventions lent themselves to this design, and Wheeler and Wilson led
+the way to the introduction of the machine as a home appliance. Other
+manufacturers followed.</p>
+
+<p>When the stock company was formed, Mr. Wilson retired from active
+participation in the business at his own request. His health had not
+been good, and a nervous condition made it advisable for him to be freed
+from the responsibility of daily routine. During this period Wilson&rsquo;s
+inventive contributions to the sewing machine continued as noted, and in
+addition he worked on inventions concerning cotton picking and
+illuminating gases.</p>
+
+<p>Wheeler and Wilson&rsquo;s foremost competitor in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> early years of
+sewing-machine manufacture was the Singer Company, which overtook them
+by 1870 and finally absorbed the entire Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing
+Company in 1905.</p>
+
+<p>The founder of this most successful 19th-century company was Isaac
+Singer, a native of Pittstown, New York.<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> Successively a mechanic, an
+actor, and an inventor, Singer came to Boston in 1850 to promote his
+invention of a machine for carving printers&rsquo; wooden type. He exhibited
+the carving machine in Orson Phelps&rsquo; shop, where the Blodgett and Lerow
+machines were being manufactured.</p>
+
+<p>Because the carving machine evoked but little interest, Singer turned
+his attention to the sewing machine as a device offering considerable
+opportunity for both improvement and financial reward. Phelps liked
+Singer&rsquo;s ideas and joined with George Zieber, the publisher who had been
+backing the carving-machine venture, to support Singer in the work of
+improving the sewing machine. His improvements in the Blodgett and Lerow
+machine included a table to hold the cloth horizontally rather than
+vertically (this had been used by Bachelder and Wilson also), a yielding
+vertical presser foot to hold the cloth down as the needle was drawn up,
+and a vertically reciprocating straight needle driven by a rotary,
+overhanging shaft.</p>
+
+<p>The story of the invention and first trial of the machine was told by
+Singer in the course of a patent suit sometime later:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>I explained to them how the work was to be fed over the table and
+under the presser-foot, by a wheel, having short pins on its
+periphery, projecting through a slot in the table, so that the work
+would be automatically caught, fed and freed from the pins, in
+place of attaching and detaching the work to and from the baster
+plate by hand, as was necessary in the Blodgett machine.</p>
+
+<p>Phelps and Zieber were satisfied that it would work. I had no
+money. Zieber offered forty dollars to build a model machine.
+Phelps offered his best endeavors to carry out my plan and make the
+model in his shop; if successful we were to share equally. I worked
+at it day and night, sleeping but three or four hours a day out of
+the twenty-four, and eating generally but once a day, as I knew I
+must make it for the forty dollars or not get it at all.</p>
+
+<p>The machine was completed in eleven days. About nine o&rsquo;clock in the
+evening we got the parts together and tried it; it did not sew; the
+workmen exhausted with almost unremitting work, pronounced it a
+failure and left me one by one.</p>
+
+<p>Zieber held the lamp, and I continued to try the machine, but
+anxiety and incessant work had made me nervous and I could not get
+tight stitches. Sick at heart, about midnight, we started for our
+hotel. On the way we sat down on a pile of boards, and Zieber
+mentioned that the loose loops of thread were on the upper side of
+the cloth. It flashed upon me that we had forgot to adjust the
+tension on the needle thread. We went back, adjusted the tension,
+tried the machine, sewed five stitches perfectly and the thread
+snapped, but that was enough. At three o&rsquo;clock the next day the
+machine was finished. I took it to New York and employed Mr.
+Charles M. Keller to patent it. It was used as a model in the
+application for the patent.<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a></p></div>
+
+<p>The first machine was completed about the last of September 1850. The
+partners considered naming the machine the &ldquo;Jenny Lind,&rdquo; after the
+Swedish soprano who was then the toast of America. It was reported<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a>
+to have been advertised under that name when the machine was first
+placed on the market, but the name was soon changed to &ldquo;Singer&rsquo;s
+Perpendicular Action Sewing Machine&rdquo; or simply the &ldquo;Singer Sewing
+Machine&rdquo;&mdash;a name correctly anticipated to achieve a popularity of its
+own.</p>
+
+<p>According to the contract made by the partners, the hurriedly built
+first machine was to be sent to the Patent Office with an application in
+the name of Singer and Phelps. An application was made between the end
+of September 1850 and March 14, 1851, as Singer refers to it briefly in
+the application formally filed on April 16, 1851, stating, &ldquo;My present
+invention is of improvements on a machine heretofore invented by me and
+for which an application is now pending.&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>
+<a name="fig_28" id="fig_28"></a>
+<img src="images/i073.png" width="300" height="347" alt="Figure 28." title="Figure 28." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 28.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Singer&rsquo;s patent model, 1851</span>; a commercial
+machine was used, bearing the serial number 22. (Smithsonian photo
+45572-D.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_29" id="fig_29"></a>
+<img src="images/i074.png" width="300" height="347" alt="Figure 29." title="Figure 29." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 29.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Singer&rsquo;s Perpendicular Action</span> sewing machine,
+an engraving from <i>Illustrated News</i>, June 25, 1853, which states: &ldquo;The
+sewing machine has, within the last two years acquired a wide celebrity,
+and established its character as one of the most efficient labor saving
+instruments ever introduced to public notice.... We must not forget to
+call attention to the fact that this instrument is peculiarly calculated
+for female operatives. They should never allow its use to be monopolized
+by men.&rdquo; (Smithsonian photo 48091-D.)</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">In late December 1850 Singer had bought Phelps&rsquo; interest in the company.
+Whether the first application was later abandoned by Singer or whether
+it was rejected is not known,<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> but a patent on the first application
+was never issued. The final disposition of this first machine has
+remained a mystery.<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a></p>
+
+
+
+<p>A few machines were manufactured in late 1850 and early 1851, and these
+attracted considerable attention; orders began to be received in advance
+of production. The pending patent application did not delay the
+manufacture, and a number of machines were sold before August 12, 1851,
+when the patent was granted. The patent model is shown in figure 28.<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a>
+It made a lockstitch by means of a straight eye-pointed needle and a
+reciprocating shuttle. The patent claims, as quoted from the
+specifications, were as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="blockhang"><p>1. Giving to the shuttle an additional forward motion after it has
+been stopped to close the loop, as described, for the purpose of
+drawing the stitch tight, when such additional motion is given at
+and in combination with the feed motion of the cloth in the reverse
+direction, and the final upward motion of the needle, as described,
+so that the two threads shall be drawn tight at the same time, as
+described.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="blockhang"><p>2. Controlling the thread during the downward motion of the needle
+by the combination of a friction-pad to prevent the slack above the
+cloth, with the eye on the needle-carrier for drawing back the
+thread, for the purposes and in the manner substantially as
+described.</p>
+
+<p>3. Placing the bobbin from which the needle is supplied with thread
+on an adjustable arm attached to the frame, substantially as
+described, when this is combined with the carrying of the said
+thread through an eye or guide attached to and moving with the
+needle-carrier, as described, whereby any desired length of thread
+can be given for the formation of the loop without varying the
+range of motion of the needle, as described.</p></div>
+
+<p>The feeding described in the Singer patent was &ldquo;by the friction surface
+of a wheel, whose periphery is formed with very fine grooves, the edges
+of which are slightly serrated, against which the cloth is pressed by a
+spring plate or pad.&rdquo; Although claimed by the inventor in the
+handwritten specifications, it was not allowed as original.</p>
+
+<p>The machines manufactured by the Singer company (fig. 29) were
+duplicates of the patent model. These machines were quite heavy and
+intended for manufacturing rather than for family use in the home.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_30" id="fig_30"></a>
+<img src="images/i075.png" width="600" height="453" alt="Figure 30." title="Figure 30." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 30.&mdash;<span class="smcap">I. M. Singer &amp; Co. New York showroom</span> of the
+mid-1850s, as illustrated in <i>Frank Leslie&rsquo;s Illustrated Newspaper</i>,
+August 29, 1857; only manufacturing machines are shown in this
+illustration. (Smithsonian photo 48091-B.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>
+<a name="fig_31" id="fig_31"></a>
+<img src="images/i078.png" width="600" height="376" alt="Figure 31." title="Figure 31." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 31.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Hunt and Webster&rsquo;s sewing-machine manufactory</span>
+exhibition and salesroom in Boston, as illustrated in <i>Ballou&rsquo;s
+Pictorial</i>, July 5, 1856; only manufacturing machines are shown.
+(Smithsonian photo 45771-A.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Singer enjoyed demonstrating the machine and showed it to church and
+social groups and even at circuses; this personal association then
+encouraged him to improve its reliability and convenience. He developed
+a wooden packing case which doubled as a stand for the machine and a
+treadle to allow it to be operated by foot. Because of the dimensions of
+the packing case, Singer put the pivot of the treadle toward its center,
+about where the instep of the foot would rest. This produced the
+heel-and-toe action treadle, a familiar part of the sewing machine until
+its replacement by the electric motor. Both hands were freed to guide
+and arrange the cloth that was being stitched. Singer also added a
+flywheel to smooth out the treadle action and later an iron stand with a
+treadle wide enough for both feet. The treadle had been in use for two
+years before a rival pointed out that it might have been patented. To
+Singer&rsquo;s chagrin it was then too late for patent laws<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> did not permit
+patenting a device that had been in public use.</p>
+
+<p>A new obstacle appeared in the Singer company&rsquo;s path when Howe demanded
+$25,000 for infringement of his patent. Singer and Zieber decided to
+fight, enlisting the legal aid of Edward Clark, a lawyer and financier.
+Howe&rsquo;s action was opposed on the basis of Hunt&rsquo;s machine of 1834, which
+they stated had anticipated Howe&rsquo;s invention.</p>
+
+<p>While they were resisting, Howe sued three firms that were using and
+selling Singer machines. The court order required the selling firms and
+the purchasers to provide an account of the profits accrued from the
+sale and the use of the sewing machines and restrained the firms from
+selling the machines during the pendency of the suit.<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> As a result of
+this action, a number of Singer&rsquo;s rivals purchased licenses from Howe
+and advertised that anyone could sell their machines without fear of a
+suit. This gave them a great competitive advantage, and Singer and
+Clark<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a> decided it was best to seek a settlement with Howe. On July 1,
+1854, they paid him $15,000 and took out a license.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_32" id="fig_32"></a>
+<img src="images/i081.png" width="300" height="373" alt="Figure 32." title="Figure 32." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 32.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Singer&rsquo;s new Family Sewing Machine</span>,
+illustration from a brochure dating about 1858 or 1859 which states: &ldquo;A
+few months since, we came to the conclusion that the public taste
+demanded a sewing machine for family purposes more exclusively; a
+machine of smaller size, and of a lighter and more elegant form; a
+machine decorated in the best style of art, so as to make a beautiful
+ornament in the parlor or boudoir; a machine very easily operated, and
+rapid in working.... To supply this public want, we have just produced,
+and are now prepared to receive orders for, &lsquo;Singer&rsquo;s new Family Sewing
+Machine.&rsquo;&rdquo; (Smithsonian photo 48091-H.)</p></div>
+
+<p>In spite of this defeat, the Singer company could claim several
+important improvements to the sewing machine and the acquisition of the
+patents rights to the Morey and Johnson machine of 1849, which gave them
+control of the spring or curved arm to hold the cloth by a yielding
+pressure. Although this point had not been claimed in the 1849 patent,
+the established principle of patent law allowed that a novel device
+introduced and used in a patented machine could be covered by a reissue
+at any time during the life of the patent. Upon becoming owners of the
+Morey and Johnson patent, Singer applied for a reissue which covered
+this type of yielding pressure. It was granted on June 27, 1854. The
+Singer company&rsquo;s acquisition of the Bachelder patent had given them
+control of the yielding pressure bar also.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="fig_33" id="fig_33"></a>
+<img src="images/i082.png" width="400" height="413" alt="Figure 33." title="Figure 33." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 33.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Singer Family Machine</span>, 1858, head only.
+(Smithsonian photo 45524-F.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Singer&rsquo;s aggressive selling had begun to overcome the public&rsquo;s suspicion
+of sewing machines. He pioneered in the use of lavishly decorated
+sewing-machine showrooms when the company offices were expanded in the
+mid-1850s (fig. 30). These were rich with carved walnut furniture,
+gilded ornaments, and carpeted floors, places in which Victorian women
+were not ashamed to be seen. The machines were demonstrated by pretty
+young women. The total effect was a new concept of selling, and Singer
+became the drum major of a new and coming industry that had many
+followers (see fig. 31).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span><a name="fig_34" id="fig_34"></a>
+<img src="images/i083.png" width="600" height="412" alt="Figure 34." title="Figure 34." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 34.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Grover and Baker&rsquo;s patent model, 1851.</span>
+(Smithsonian photo 32003-G.)</p></div>
+
+<p>The first, light, family sewing machine by the Singer company was not
+manufactured until 1858 (figs. 32 and 33). Comparatively few of these
+machines were made as they proved to be too small and light. The men in
+the shop dubbed the machine &ldquo;The Grasshopper,&rdquo; but it was officially
+called the new Family Sewing Machine or the Family Machine.<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a>
+Because of its shape, Singer company brochures of the 1920s referred to it as
+the Turtleback Machine.</p>
+
+<p>Since the cost of sewing machines was quite high and the average family
+income was low, Clark suggested the adoption of the hire-purchase plan.
+Into the American economy thus came the now-familiar installment
+buying.</p>
+
+<p>Singer and Clark continued to be partners until 1863 when a corporation
+was formed. At this time Singer decided to withdraw from active work. He
+received 40 percent of the stock and retired to Paris and later to
+England, where he died in 1875.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_35" id="fig_35"></a>
+<img src="images/i086.png" width="600" height="520" alt="Figure 35." title="Figure 35." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 35.&mdash;<span class="smcap">This Grover and Baker cabinet-style sewing
+machine</span> of 1856 bears the serial number 5675 and the patent dates
+February 11, 1851, June 22, 1852, February 22, 1853, and May 27, 1856.
+(Smithsonian photo 45572-F.)</p></div>
+
+<p>By the mid-1850s the basic elements of a successful, practical sewing
+machine were at hand, but the continuing court litigation over rival
+patent rights seemed destined to ruin the economics of the new industry.
+It was then that the lawyer of the Grover and Baker company, another
+sewing-machine manufacturer of the early 1850s, supplied the solution.
+Grover and Baker were manufacturing a machine that was mechanically
+good, for this early period. William O. Grover was another Boston
+tailor, who, unlike many others, was convinced that the sewing machine
+was going to revolutionize his chosen trade. Although the sewing
+machines that he had seen were not very practical, he began in 1849 to
+experiment with an idea based on a new kind of stitch. His design was
+for a machine that would take both its threads from spools and eliminate
+the need to wind one thread upon a bobbin. After much experimenting, he
+proved that it was possible to make a seam by interlocking two threads
+in a succession of slipknots, but he found that building a machine to do
+this was a much more difficult task. It is quite surprising that while
+he was working on this idea, he did not stumble upon a good method to
+produce the single-thread (as opposed to Grover and Baker&rsquo;s two-thread)
+chainstitch, later worked out by another. Grover was working so intently
+on the use of two threads that apparently no thought of forming a stitch
+with one thread had a chance to develop.</p>
+
+<p>At this time Grover became a partner with another Boston tailor,
+William E. Baker, and on February 11, 1851, they were issued U.S. patent
+No. 7,931 for a machine that did exactly what Grover had set out to do;
+it made a double chainstitch with two threads both carried on ordinary
+thread spools. The machine (figs. 34 and 35) used a vertical eye-pointed
+needle for the top thread and a horizontal needle for the underthread.
+The cloth was placed on the horizontal platform or table, which had a
+hole for the entry of the vertical needle. When this needle passed
+through the cloth, it formed a loop on the underside. The horizontal
+needle passed through this loop forming another loop beyond, which was
+retained until the redescending vertical needle enchained it, and the
+process repeated. The slack in the needle thread was controlled by means
+of a spring guide. The cloth was fed by feeding rolls and a band.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_36" id="fig_36"></a>
+<img src="images/i089.png" width="600" height="520" alt="Figure 36." title="Figure 36." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 36.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Grover&rsquo;s patent model for the first portable
+case, 1856.</span> The machine in the case is a commercial machine of 1854,
+bearing the serial number 3012 and the patent dates &ldquo;Feby 11, 1851, June
+22, 1852, Feby 22, 1853.&rdquo; Powered by a single, foot-shaped treadle that
+was connected by a removable wooden pitman, it also could be turned by
+hand. (Smithsonian photo 45525-D.)</p></div>
+
+<p>A company was organized under the name of Grover and Baker Sewing
+Machine Company, and soon the partners took Jacob Weatherill, mechanic,
+and Orlando B. Potter, lawyer (who became the president), into the firm.
+Potter contributed his ability as a lawyer in lieu of a financial
+investment and handled the several succeeding patents of Grover and
+Baker. These patents were primarily for mechanical improvements such as
+U.S. patent No. 9,053 issued to Grover and Baker on June 22, 1852, for
+devising a curved upper needle and an under looper<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> to form the
+double-looped stitch which became known as the Grover and Baker stitch.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>
+One of the more interesting of the patents, however, was for the box or
+sewing case for which Grover was issued U.S. patent No. 14,956 on May
+27, 1856. The inventor stated &ldquo;that when open the box shall constitute
+the bed for the machine to be operated upon, and hanging the machine
+thereto to facilitate oiling, cleansing, and repairs without removing it
+from the box.&rdquo; It was the first portable sewing machine (fig. 36).</p>
+
+<p>Though the Grover and Baker company manufactured machines using a
+shuttle and producing the more common lockstitch, both under royalty in
+their own name and also for other smaller companies, Potter was
+convinced that the Grover and Baker stitch was the one that eventually
+would be used in both family and commercial machines. He, as president,
+directed the efforts of the company to that end. When the basic patents
+held by the &ldquo;Sewing-Machine Combination&rdquo; (discussed on pp. 41-42) began
+to run out in the mid-1870s, dissolving its purpose and lowering the
+selling price of sewing machines, the Grover and Baker company began a
+systematic curtailing of expenses and closing of branch offices. All the
+patents held by the company and the business itself were sold to
+another company.<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> But the members of the Grover and Baker company
+fared well financially by the strategic move.</p>
+
+<p>The Grover and Baker machine and its unique stitch did not have a great
+influence on the overall development of the mechanics of machine sewing.
+The merits of a double-looped stitch&mdash;its elasticity and the taking of
+both threads from commercial spools&mdash;were outweighed by the bulkiness of
+the seam and its consumption of three times as much thread as the
+lockstitch required. Machines making a similar type of stitch have
+continued in limited use in the manufacture of knit goods and other
+products requiring an elastic seam. But, more importantly, Grover and
+Baker&rsquo;s astute Orlando B. Potter placed their names in the annals of
+sewing-machine history by his work in forming the &ldquo;Combination,&rdquo;
+believed to be the first &ldquo;trust&rdquo; of any prominence.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="fnheader">FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> See biographical sketch, pp. 138-141.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> <i>In the Matter of the Application of Elias Howe, Jr. for
+an Extension of His Sewing Machine Patent Dated September 10, 1846</i>, New
+York, 1860, with attachments A and B, U.S. Patent Office. [L.C. call no.
+TJ 1512.H6265]</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> It is interesting to note that when William Thomas applied
+for the British patent of the Howe machine (issued Dec. 1, 1846), the
+courts would not allow the claim for the combination of the eye-pointed
+needle and shuttle to form a stitch, due to the Fisher and Gibbons
+patent of 1844. For more details on Howe&rsquo;s years in England see his
+biographical sketch, pp. 138-141.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> The machine referred to as the London Sewing Machine is
+the British patent of the Thimonnier machine. This patent was applied
+for by Jean Marie Magnin and was published by <i>Newton&rsquo;s London Journal</i>,
+vol. 39, p. 317, as Magnin&rsquo;s invention.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> The exact date is not known; however, it was prior to 1856
+as the patent was included in the sewing-machine patent pool formed that
+year.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> <span class="smcap">James Parton</span>, <i>History of the Sewing Machine</i>, p. 12,
+(originally published in the <i>Atlantic Monthly</i>, May 1867), later
+reprinted by the Howe Machine Company as a separate.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> <i>Sewing Machine Times</i> (Feb. 25, 1907), vol. 17, no. 382,
+p. 1, &ldquo;His [Bonata&rsquo;s] shop was on Gold Street, New York, near the
+Bartholf shop, where Howe was building some of his early machines.&rdquo;</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> <i>Sewing Machine News</i>, vol. 3, no. 5, p. 5, Sept.
+1881-Jan. 1882. &ldquo;History of the Sewing Machine.&rdquo;</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> Op. cit. (footnote 34).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> <i>New York Daily Tribune</i>, Jan. 15, 1852, p. 2.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> See Howe&rsquo;s biographical sketch, p. 141.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> Op. cit. (footnote 34). Attachments A and B are copies of
+Judge Sprague&rsquo;s decisions.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> <i>Sewing Machine Journal</i> (July 1887), pp. 93-94.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> <i>Report of the Sixth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association, in the City of Boston, September 1850</i>
+(Boston, 1850).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> See biographical sketch, pp. 141-142.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a><i>Scientific American</i> (Dec. 6, 1851), vol. 7, no. 12, p.
+95.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> Ibid. (Sept. 20, 1851), vol. 7, no. 1, p. 7.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> Ibid. (June 4, 1853), vol. 7, no. 38, p. 298</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> <span class="smcap">J. D. Van Slyck</span>, <i>New England Manufactures and
+Manufactories</i>, vol. 2, pp. 672-682.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> See his biographical sketch, pp. 142-143.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Chester McNeil</span>, <i>A History of the Sewing Machine</i> in Union
+Sales Bulletin, vol. 3, Union Special Sewing Machine Co., Chicago,
+Illinois, pp. 83-85. 1903.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> <i>Sewing Machine Times</i> (Aug. 25, 1908), vol. 18, no. 418.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> Singer gives this limited description of the first
+machine, with detailed improvements for which he was then applying for a
+patent: &ldquo;In my previous machine, to which reference has been made, the
+bobbin was carried by the needle-carrier, and hence the motion of the
+needle had to be equal to the length of thread required to form the
+loop, which was objectionable, as in many instances this range of motion
+was unnecessarily long for all other purposes....&rdquo; Quoted from U.S.
+patent 8,294 issued to Isaac M. Singer, Aug. 12, 1851. It should be
+noted that in some instances there was a considerable lapse of time from
+the date a patent application was made until the patent was issued. In
+this case the handwritten specifications were dated March 14, 1851, and
+the formal Patent Office receipt was dated April 16, 1851.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> If a patent was not approved, for any reason, the records
+were placed in an &ldquo;Abandoned File.&rdquo; In 1930 Congress authorized the
+disposal of the old &ldquo;Abandoned Files,&rdquo; requiring them to be kept for
+twenty years only. There are no Singer Company records giving an account
+of the first patent application.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> Its whereabouts was unknown as early as 1908, as stated in
+the <i>Sewing Machine Times</i> (Aug. 25, 1908), vol. 18, no. 418. Models of
+abandoned patents frequently remained at the Patent Office.
+Approximately 76,000 models were ruined in a Patent Office fire in 1877.
+In 1908 over 3000 models of abandoned patents were sold at auction.
+Either incident could account for the machine&rsquo;s disappearance.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> The patent model of 8,294 is a machine that bears the
+serial number 22; it was manufactured before April 18, 1851, the date it
+was recorded as received by the Patent Office.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> William R. Bagnall, in &ldquo;Contributions to American Economic
+History,&rdquo; vol. 1 (1908), MS, Harvard School of Business Library.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> Singer purchased Phelps&rsquo; interest in the company in 1851
+and sold it to Edward Clark.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> This first, family sewing machine should not be confused
+in name with a model brought out in the sixties. The name of this first,
+family machine was in the sense of a new &ldquo;family&rdquo; sewing machine. In
+1859 a &ldquo;Letter A&rdquo; family machine was introduced. Thus in 1865 when the
+Singer Company brought out another family machine they called it the
+&ldquo;New&rdquo; Family Sewing Machine. Both the first-style Family machine and the
+Letter A machine are illustrated in <i>Eighty Years of Progress of the
+United States</i> (New York, 1861), vol. 2, p. 417, and discussed in an
+article, &ldquo;The Place and Its Tenants,&rdquo; in the <i>Sewing Machine Times</i>
+(Dec. 25, 1908), vol. 27, no. 893.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> A looper on the underside in place of the horizontal
+needle.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> Domestic Sewing Machine Company. See <i>Union Special Sewing
+Machine Co. Sales Bulletin</i>, vol. 3, ch. 15, pp. 58-59.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>Chapter Three</i><br /><br /></h2>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span></p>
+<table summary="Sewing Machines Licensed 1853-1856" width="100%">
+<tr><th class="border" colspan="15">A PARTIAL STATEMENT FROM RECORDS OF &ldquo;THE SEWING-MACHINE COMBINATION,&rdquo; SHOWING
+<br />NUMBER OF SEWING-MACHINES LICENSED ANNUALLY UNDER THE <i>ELIAS HOWE</i> PATENT.</th></tr>
+<tr><td class="border"><span class="smcap">Name of Manufacturer.</span></td><td class="border">1853.</td><td class="border">1854.</td><td class="border">1855.</td><td class="border">1856.</td><td class="border">1857.</td><td class="border">1858.</td><td class="border">1859.</td><td class="border">1860.</td><td class="border">1861.</td><td class="border">1862.</td><td class="border">1863.</td><td class="border">1864.</td><td class="border">1865.</td><td class="border">1866.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Wheeler &amp; Wilson Mfg. Co.</td><td class="border">799</td><td class="border">756</td><td class="border">1,171</td><td class="border">2,210</td><td class="border">4,591</td><td class="border">7,978</td><td class="border">21,306</td><td class="border">25,102</td><td class="border">18,556</td><td class="border">28,202</td><td class="border">29,778</td><td class="border">40,062</td><td class="border">39,157</td><td class="border">50,132</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">I. M. Singer &amp; Co.</td><td class="border">810</td><td class="border">879</td><td class="border">883</td><td class="border">2,564</td><td class="border">3,630</td><td class="border">3,594</td><td class="border">10,953</td><td class="border">13,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">16,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">18,396</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">The Singer Manufacturing Co.</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">20,030</td><td class="border">23,632</td><td class="border">26,340</td><td class="border">30,960</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Grover &amp; Baker S. M. Co.</td><td class="border">657</td><td class="border">2,034</td><td class="border">1,144</td><td class="border">1,952</td><td class="border">3,680</td><td class="border">5,070</td><td class="border">10,280</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">A. B. Howe &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">60</td><td class="border">53</td><td class="border">47</td><td class="border">133</td><td class="border">179</td><td class="border">921</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Leavitt &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">28</td><td class="border">217</td><td class="border">152</td><td class="border">235</td><td class="border">195</td><td class="border">75</td><td class="border">213</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Ladd &amp; Webster &nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">100</td><td class="border">268</td><td class="border">73</td><td class="border">180</td><td class="border">453</td><td class="border">490</td><td class="border">1,788</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Bartholf &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">135</td><td class="border">55</td><td class="border">31</td><td class="border">35</td><td class="border">31</td><td class="border">203</td><td class="border">747</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td></tr>
+</table>
+<table summary="Sewing Machines Licensed 1867-1876" width="100%">
+<tr><th class="border" colspan="11">A PARTIAL STATEMENT SHOWING NUMBER OF SEWING-MACHINES LICENSED ANNUALLY
+<br />FROM 1867 TO 1876 INCLUSIVE.</th></tr>
+<tr><td class="border"><span class="smcap">Name of Manufacturer.</span></td><td class="border">1867.</td><td class="border">1868.</td><td class="border">1869.</td><td class="border">1870.</td><td class="border">1871.</td><td class="border">1872.</td><td class="border">1873.</td><td class="border">1874.</td><td class="border">1875.</td><td class="border">1876.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">The Singer Manufacturing Co.</td><td class="border">43,053</td><td class="border">59,629</td><td class="border">86,781</td><td class="border">127,833</td><td class="border">181,260</td><td class="border">219,758</td><td class="border">232,444</td><td class="border">241,679</td><td class="border">249,852</td><td class="border">262,316</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Wheeler &amp; Wilson Mfg. Co.</td><td class="border">38,055</td><td class="border">(<i>b</i>)</td><td class="border">78,866</td><td class="border">83,208</td><td class="border">128,526</td><td class="border">174,088</td><td class="border">119,190</td><td class="border">92,827</td><td class="border">103,740</td><td class="border">108,997</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Grover &amp; Baker S. M. Co.</td><td class="border">32,999</td><td class="border">35,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">35,188</td><td class="border">57,402</td><td class="border">50,838</td><td class="border">52,010</td><td class="border">36,179</td><td class="border">20,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">15,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Weed Sewing-Machine Co.</td><td class="border">3,638</td><td class="border">12,000</td><td class="border">19,687</td><td class="border">35,002</td><td class="border">39,655</td><td class="border">42,444</td><td class="border">21,769</td><td class="border">20,495</td><td class="border">21,993</td><td class="border">14,425</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Howe Sewing-Machine Co.</td><td class="border">11,053</td><td class="border">35,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">45,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">75,156</td><td class="border">134,010</td><td class="border">145,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">90,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">35,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">25,000(<i>a</i>)</td><td class="border">109,294</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">A. B. Howe &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">20,051</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">B. P. Howe &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">14,907</td><td class="border">13,919</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Willcox &amp; Gibbs S. M. Co.</td><td class="border">14,152</td><td class="border">15,000</td><td class="border">17,201</td><td class="border">28,890</td><td class="border">30,127</td><td class="border">33,639</td><td class="border">15,881</td><td class="border">13,710</td><td class="border">14,522</td><td class="border">12,758</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Wilson (W. G.) &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">21,153</td><td class="border">22,666</td><td class="border">21,247</td><td class="border">17,525</td><td class="border">9,508</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">American B. H. &amp; S. M. Co.</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">7,792</td><td class="border">14,573</td><td class="border">20,121</td><td class="border">18,930</td><td class="border">14,182</td><td class="border">13,529</td><td class="border">14,406</td><td class="border">17,937</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Florence S. M. Co.</td><td class="border">10,534</td><td class="border">12,000</td><td class="border">13,661</td><td class="border">17,660</td><td class="border">15,947</td><td class="border">15,793</td><td class="border">8,960</td><td class="border">5,517</td><td class="border">4,892</td><td class="border">2,978</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Shaw &amp; Clark S. M. Co.</td><td class="border">2,692</td><td class="border">3,000</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Gold Medal &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">8,912</td><td class="border">13,562</td><td class="border">18,897</td><td class="border">16,431</td><td class="border">15,214</td><td class="border">14,262</td><td class="border">7,185</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Davis &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">11,568</td><td class="border">11,376</td><td class="border">8,861</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Domestic &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">10,397</td><td class="border">49,554</td><td class="border">40,114</td><td class="border">22,700</td><td class="border">21,452</td><td class="border">23,587</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Finkle &amp; Lyon Mfg. Co. and  Victor.</td><td class="border">2,488</td><td class="border">2,000</td><td class="border">1,339</td><td class="border">2,420</td><td class="border">7,639</td><td class="border">11,901</td><td class="border">7,446</td><td class="border">6,292</td><td class="border">6,103</td><td class="border">5,750</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">&AElig;tna Sewing-Machine Co.</td><td class="border">2,958</td><td class="border">3,500</td><td class="border">4,548</td><td class="border">5,806</td><td class="border">4,720</td><td class="border">4,262</td><td class="border">3,081</td><td class="border">1,866</td><td class="border">1,447</td><td class="border">707</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Blees &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">4,557</td><td class="border">6,053</td><td class="border">3,458</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Elliptic &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">3,185</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">4,555</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Empire &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">2,121</td><td class="border">5,000</td><td class="border">8,700</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Remington Sewing-Machine Co.</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">3,560</td><td class="border">2,965</td><td class="border">4,982</td><td class="border">9,183</td><td class="border">17,608</td><td class="border">25,110</td><td class="border">12,716</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Parham &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">1,141</td><td class="border">1,766</td><td class="border">2,056</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Bartram &amp; Fanton Mfg. Co.</td><td class="border">2,958</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">1,004</td><td class="border">1,000</td><td class="border">1,000</td><td class="border">250</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Bartlett Sewing-Machine Co.</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">614</td><td class="border">1,000</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">J. G. Folsom</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">280</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">McKay Sewing-Machine Asso.</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">129</td><td class="border">218</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">128</td><td class="border">161</td><td class="border">102</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">C. F. Thompson</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">147</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Union Buttonhole Machine Co.</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">124</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Leavitt Sewing-Machine Co.</td><td class="border">1,051</td><td class="border">1,000</td><td class="border">771</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Goodspeed &amp; Wyman S. M. Co.</td><td class="border">2,126</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Keystone Sewing-Machine Co.</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">2,665</td><td class="border">217</td><td class="border">37</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Secor &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">311</td><td class="border">3,430</td><td class="border">4,541</td><td class="border">1,307</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="border">Centennial &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&rdquo;</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">514</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td><td class="border">....</td></tr>
+</table>
+<p>
+(<i>a</i>) Number estimated.<br />
+(<i>b</i>) No data.</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Figure 37.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Table of sewing-machine statistics.</span> From Frederick G.
+Bourne, &ldquo;American Sewing Machines&rdquo; in <i>One Hundred Years of American
+Commerce</i>, vol. 2. ed. Chauncey Mitchell Depew (New York: D. O. Haines,
+1895), p. 530. (Smithsonian photo 42542-A.)</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p>
+<h2>The &ldquo;Sewing-Machine Combination&rdquo;</h2>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">With the basic elements</span> of a successful sewing machine assembled, the
+various manufacturers should have been able to produce good machines
+unencumbered. The court order, however, which restrained several firms
+from selling Singer machines while the Howe suit was pending, started a
+landslide; soon Wheeler, Wilson and company, Grover and Baker company,
+and several others<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> purchased rights from Elias Howe. This gave Howe
+almost absolute control of the sewing-machine business as these
+companies agreed to his royalty terms of $25 for every machine sold. In
+an attempt to improve his own machine, Howe was almost immediately
+caught up in another series of legal battles in which he was the
+defendant; the companies he had defeated were able to accuse him of
+infringing on patents that they owned. To compound the confusion,
+individual companies also were suing each other on various grounds.</p>
+
+<p>Because of this situation Orlando B. Potter, president of the Grover and
+Baker company, advanced in 1856 the idea of a &ldquo;Combination&rdquo; of
+sewing-machine manufacturers. He pointed out how the various companies
+were harming themselves by continuing litigation and tried to convince
+Howe that all would benefit by an agreement of some kind. He proposed
+that Elias Howe; Wheeler, Wilson and company; I. M. Singer and company;
+and Grover and Baker company pool their patents covering the essential
+features of the machine. The three companies had started production
+about the same time and approved of Potter&rsquo;s idea; Howe opposed it as he
+felt that he had the most to lose by joining the &ldquo;Combination.&rdquo; He
+finally consented to take part in Potter&rsquo;s plan if the others would
+agree to certain stipulations. The first requirement was that at least
+twenty-four manufacturers were to be licensed. The second was that, in
+addition to sharing equally in the profits with the three companies,
+Howe would receive a royalty of $5 for each machine sold in the United
+States and $1 for each machine exported. It has been estimated that, as
+a result of this agreement, Howe received at least $2,000,000 as his
+share of the license fees between 1856 and 1867 when his patent
+expired.<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a></p>
+
+<p>The organization was called the Sewing-Machine Trust and/or the
+Sewing-Machine Combination. The important patents contributed to it
+were:</p>
+
+<div class="blockhang"><p>1. The grooved, eye-pointed needle used with a shuttle to form the
+lockstitch (E. Howe patent, held by E. Howe);</p>
+
+<p>2. The four-motion feeding mechanism (A. B. Wilson patent, held by
+Wheeler and Wilson company);</p>
+
+<p>3. The needle moving vertically above a horizontal work-plate
+(Bachelder patent), a continuous feeding device by belt or wheel
+(Bachelder patent), a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> yielding presser resting on the cloth
+(Bachelder patent), the spring or curved arm to hold the cloth by a
+yielding pressure (Morey and Johnson patent), the heart-shaped cam
+as applied to moving the needle bar (Singer patent); all these
+patents, held by the Singer Company.<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a></p></div>
+
+<p>The Grover and Baker company contributed several patents of relative
+importance, but its most important claim for admission was the fact that
+Potter had promoted the idea.</p>
+
+<p>The consent of all four member-parties was required before any license
+could be granted, and all were required to have a license&mdash;even the
+member companies. The fee was $15 per machine. A portion of this money
+was set aside to pay the cost of prosecuting infringers, Howe received
+his initial fee, and the rest was divided between the four parties. The
+advantage to the licensee was that he was required to pay only one fee.
+Most license applications were granted; only those manufacturing a
+machine specifically imitating the product of a licensed manufacturer
+were refused.</p>
+
+<p>The  three company members each continued to manufacture,
+improve, and perfect its own machine. Other than the joint control of
+the patents, there was no pooling of interests, and each company
+competed to attract purchasers to buy its particular type of machine, as
+did the companies who were licensed by them.</p>
+
+<p>In 1860, the year Howe&rsquo;s patent was renewed, the general license fee was
+reduced from $15 to $7, and Howe&rsquo;s special royalty was reduced to $1 per
+machine. Howe remained a member until his patent ran out in 1867. The
+other members continued the &ldquo;Combination&rdquo; until 1877, when the Bachelder
+patent, which had been extended twice, finally expired. By that time the
+fundamental features of the sewing machine were no longer controlled by
+anyone. Open competition by the smaller manufacturers was possible, and
+a slight reduction in price followed. Many new companies came into
+being&mdash;some destined to be very short-lived.</p>
+
+<p>From the beginning to the end of the &ldquo;Combination&rdquo; there was an army of
+independents, including infringers and imitators, who kept up a constant
+complaint against it, maintaining that its existence tended to retard
+the improvement of the sewing machine and that the public suffered
+thereby. In the period immediately following the termination of the<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">however, only a few improvements of any importance were</span><br />
+made, and most of these were by the member companies.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="fnheader">FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> These included the American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co.;
+A. Bartholf; Nichols and Bliss; J. A. Lerow; Woolridge, Keene, and
+Moore; and A. B. Howe. <i>New York Daily Tribune</i>, Sept. 3, 1853.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> &ldquo;Who Invented the Sewing-Machine,&rdquo; unsigned article in
+<i>The Galaxy</i>, vol. 4, August 31, 1867, pp. 471-481.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> Singer has sometimes been credited as the inventor of the
+various improvements covered by the patents that the Singer company
+purchased and later contributed to the efforts of the Combination.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>Chapter Four</i><br /><br /></h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_38" id="fig_38"></a>
+<img src="images/i101.png" width="400" height="496" alt="Figure 38." title="Figure 38." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 38.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Gibbs&rsquo; patent model, 1857.</span> (Smithsonian photo
+45504-E.)</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+<h2>Less Expensive Machines</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">While the &ldquo;Combination&rdquo;</span> was attempting to solve the problems of patent
+litigation, another problem faced the would-be home users of this new
+invention. The budget limitations of the average family caused a demand
+for a less expensive machine, for this first consumer appliance was a
+most desirable commodity.<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a></p>
+
+<p>There were many attempts to satisfy this demand, but one of the best and
+most successful grew out of a young man&rsquo;s curiosity. James E. A. Gibbs&rsquo;
+first exposure to the sewing machine was in 1855 when, at the age of 24,
+he saw a simple woodcut illustration of a Grover and Baker machine. The
+woodcut represented only the upper part of the machine. Nothing in the
+illustration indicated that more than one thread was used, and none of
+the stitch-forming mechanism was visible. Gibbs assumed that the stitch
+was formed with one thread; he then proceeded to imagine a mechanism
+that would make a stitch with one thread. His solution was described in
+his own statement:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>As I was then living in a very out of the way place, far from
+railroads and public conveyances of all kinds, modern improvements
+seldom reached our locality, and not being likely to have my
+curiosity satisfied otherwise, I set to work to see what I could
+learn from the woodcut, which was not accompanied by any
+description. I first discovered that the needle was attached to a
+needle arm, and consequently could not pass entirely through the
+material, but must retreat through the same hole by which it
+entered. From this I saw that I could not make a stitch similar to
+handwork, but must have some other mode of fastening the thread on
+the underside, and among other possible methods of doing this, the
+chainstitch occurred to me as a likely means of accomplishing the
+end.</p>
+
+<p>I next endeavored to discover how this stitch was or could be made,
+and from the woodcut I saw that the driving shaft which had the
+driving wheel on the outer end, passed along under the cloth plate
+of the machine. I knew that the mechanism which made the stitch
+must be connected with and actuated by this driving shaft. After
+studying the position and relations of the needle and shaft with
+each other, I conceived the idea of the revolving hook on the end
+of the shaft, which might take hold of the thread and manipulate it
+into a chainstitch. My ideas were, of course, very crude and
+indefinite, but it will be seen that I then had the correct
+conception of the invention afterwards embodied in my machine.<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a></p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_39" id="fig_39"></a>
+<img src="images/i105.png" width="600" height="438" alt="Figure 39." title="Figure 39." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 39.&mdash;<span class="smcap">One of the first commercial machines</span> produced
+by the Willcox &amp; Gibbs Sewing Machine Co. in 1857, this machine bears no
+serial number, although the name &ldquo;James E. A. Gibbs&rdquo; is inscribed in two
+places on the cloth plate. It was used as the patent model for Gibbs&rsquo;
+improvement on his 1857 patent issued the following year on August 10,
+1858. (Smithsonian photo P. 6393.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Gibbs had no immediate interest in the sewing machine other than to
+satisfy his curiosity. He did not think of it again until January 1856
+when he was visiting his father in Rockbridge County, Virginia. While in
+a tailor&rsquo;s shop there, he happened to see a Singer machine. Gibbs was
+very much impressed, but thought the machine entirely too heavy,
+complicated, and cumbersome, and the price exorbitant. It was then that
+he recalled the machine he had devised. Remembering how simple it was,
+he decided to work in earnest to produce a less-expensive type of sewing
+machine.</p>
+
+<p>Gibbs had little time to spend on this invention since his family was
+dependent upon him for support, but he managed to find time at night and
+during inclement weather. In contemporary references, Gibbs is referred
+to as a farmer, but since he is also reported to have had employers, it
+may be surmised that he was a farmhand. In any event, his decision to
+try to produce a less-expensive sewing machine suffered from a lack of
+proper tools and adequate materials. Most of the machine had to be
+constructed of wood, and he was forced to make his own needles. By the
+end of April 1856, however, his model was sufficiently completed to
+arouse the interest of his employers, who agreed to furnish the money
+necessary to patent the machine.</p>
+
+<p>Gibbs went to Washington, where he examined sewing-machine models in the
+Patent Office and other machines then on the market. Completing his
+investigations, Gibbs made a trip to Philadelphia and showed his
+invention to a builder of models of new inventions, James Willcox. Much
+impressed with the machine, Willcox arranged for Gibbs to work with his
+son, Charles Willcox, in a small room in the rear of his shop. After
+taking out two minor patents (on December 16, 1856, and January 20,
+1857), Gibbs obtained his important one, U.S. patent No. 17,427 on June
+2, 1857 (fig. 38). His association with Charles Willcox led to the
+formation of the Willcox &amp; Gibbs Sewing Machine Company, and they began
+manufacturing chainstitch machines in 1857 (fig. 39). The machine used a
+straight needle to make a chainstitch. At the forward end of the main
+shaft was a hook which, as it rotated, carried the loop of
+needle-thread, elongated and held it expanded while the feed moved the
+cloth until the needle at the next stroke descended through the loop so
+held. When the needle descended through the first loop, the point of the
+hook was again in position to catch the second loop, at which time the
+first loop was cast off and the second loop drawn through it, the first
+loop having been drawn up against the lower edge of the cloth to form a
+chain.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_40" id="fig_40"></a>
+<img src="images/i108.png" width="400" height="399" alt="Figure 40." title="Figure 40." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 40.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A dolphin</span> sewing machine based on Clark&rsquo;s
+patent of 1858. This design was first used by T. J. W. Robertson in
+1855, but in his patent issued on May 22 of that year no claim was made
+for the machine design, only for the chainstitch mechanism. The same
+style was used by D. W. Clark in several of his chainstitch patents, but
+he also made no claim for the design, stating that the machine &ldquo;may be
+made in any desired ornamental form.&rdquo; The dolphin-style machines are all
+chainstitch models of solid brass, originally gilt. Although only about
+five inches long, they are full-size machines using a full-size needle.
+(Smithsonian photo 45505.)</p></div>
+
+<p>A Gibbs sewing machine, on a simple iron-frame stand with treadle, sold
+for approximately $50 in the late 1850s,<a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> while a Wheeler and
+Wilson<a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a> machine or a Grover and Baker<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> with the same type of
+stand sold for approximately $100. After the introduction of the Gibbs
+machine, the Singer company<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> brought out a light family machine in
+1858 that was also first sold for $100. It was then reduced to $50, but
+it was not popular because it was too light (see discussion of Singer
+machines, pp. 34-35). In 1859, Singer brought out its second, more
+successful family machine, which sold for $75.</p>
+
+<p>Like the other companies licensed by the &ldquo;Combination,&rdquo; Willcox and
+Gibbs company paid a royalty for the use of the patents it held.
+Although the Willcox and Gibbs machine was a single-thread chainstitch
+machine and the company held the Gibbs patents, the company was required
+to be licensed to use the basic feed, vertical needle, and other
+related<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> patents held by the &ldquo;Sewing-Machine Combination.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>With the approach of the Civil War, Gibbs returned to Virginia. Poor
+health prevented him from taking an active part in the war, but he
+worked throughout the conflict in a factory processing saltpeter for
+gunpowder. Afterward, Gibbs returned to Philadelphia and found that
+Willcox had faithfully protected his sewing-machine interests during his
+long absence. The firm prospered, and Gibbs finally retired to Virginia
+a wealthy man. Interestingly, Gibbs named the Virginia village to which
+he returned in later life &ldquo;Raphine&rdquo;&mdash;derived, somewhat incorrectly, from
+the Greek word &ldquo;to sew.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The Willcox &amp; Gibbs Sewing Machine Company is one of the few old
+companies still in existence. It discontinued making and selling
+family-style machines many years ago and directed its energies toward
+specialized commercial sewing machines, many of which are based on the
+original chainstitch principle.</p>
+
+<p>There was also an ever-increasing number of other patentees and
+manufacturers who, in the late 1850s and 1860s, attempted to produce a
+sewing machine that would circumvent both the &ldquo;Combination&rdquo; and the high
+cost of manufacturing a more complicated type of machine. Some of the
+more interesting of these are pictured and described in figures 40
+through 54.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_41" id="fig_41"></a>
+<img src="images/i112.png" width="300" height="334" alt="Figure 41." title="Figure 41." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 41.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The cherub</span> sewing machine was another
+Robertson first which was adopted by Clark. Robertson&rsquo;s patent of
+October 20, 1857, once again makes no claim for the design; neither does
+Clark&rsquo;s patent of January 5, 1858, illustrated here. The machine is
+approximately the same size as the dolphin and is made in the same
+manner and of the same materials. Two cherubs form the main support, one
+also supporting the spool and leashing a dragonfly which backs the
+needle mechanism. (Smithsonian photo 45504-D.)</p></div>
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_42" id="fig_42">
+</a><img src="images/i113.png" width="300" height="213" alt="Figure 42." title="Figure 42." /><p class="caption">Figure 42.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The foliage sewing machine</span> originated with D.
+W. Clark. Once again he did not include the design in his June 8, 1858,
+patent, which was aimed at improving the feeding mechanism. Like most
+hand-turned models, these required a clamp to fasten them to the table
+when in operation. (Smithsonian photo 45504-C.)</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_43" id="fig_43"></a>
+<img src="images/i115.png" width="300" height="399" alt="Figure 43." title="Figure 43." /><p class="caption">Figure 43.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The sewing shears</span> was another popular machine
+of unusual style. Some models were designed to both cut and sew, but
+most derived their names from the method of motivating power. The
+earliest example of the sewing-shears machine was invented by Joseph
+Hendrick, who stated in his patent that he was attempting to produce &ldquo;a
+simple, portable, cheap, and efficient machine.&rdquo; His patent model of
+October 5, 1858, is illustrated. (Smithsonian photo 45504-F.)</p></div>
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_44" id="fig_44">
+</a><img src="images/i114.png" width="300" height="326" alt="Figure 44." title="Figure 44." /><p class="caption">Figure 44.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The horse sewing machine</span> is among the most
+unusual of the patents issued for mechanical improvements. Although
+James Perry, the patentee, made several claims for the looper, feeder,
+and tension, he made no mention of the unusual design of the machine,
+for which a patent was issued on November 23, 1858. Although it was
+probably one of a kind, the horse machine illustrates the extent to
+which the inventor&rsquo;s mind struggled for original design. (Smithsonian
+photo 45505-C.)</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_45" id="fig_45"></a>
+<img src="images/i116.png" width="300" height="394" alt="Figure 45." title="Figure 45." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 45.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Many inventors</span> attempted to cut the cost of
+manufacturing a complicated machine. One of these was Albert H. Hook,
+whose machine is only about four inches high and two inches wide. His
+patent, granted November 30, 1858, simplified the construction and
+arrangement of the various parts. Although Hook used a barbed needle
+reminiscent of the one used by Thimonnier, his method of forming the
+stitch was entirely different. The thread was passed through the
+necessary guides, and when the cloth was in place the needle was thrust
+up from below. Passing through the fabric, the needle descended,
+carrying with it a loop of thread. As the process was repeated, a
+chainstitch was formed with the enchained loop on the under side. In
+spite of its simple mechanism, Hook&rsquo;s machine was not a commercial
+success. (Smithsonian photo 45505-D.)</p></div>
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_46" id="fig_46"></a>
+<img src="images/i117.png" width="300" height="437" alt="Figure 46." title="Figure 46." /><p class="caption">Figure 46.&mdash;<span class="smcap">In addition to mechanical patents</span>, a number
+of design patents were also issued for sewing machines. These fall into
+a separate series in the Patent Office&rsquo;s numerical records. This unusual
+example featured two semidraped female figures holding the spool of
+thread, a mermaid holding the needle, a serpent which served as the
+presser foot, and a heart-shaped baster plate. The design was patented
+by W. N. Brown, October 25, 1859, but no examples other than the patent
+model are known to have been made. (Smithsonian photo 45504-A.)</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_47" id="fig_47"></a>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p>
+<img src="images/i118.png" width="600" height="599" alt="Figure 47." title="Figure 47." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 47.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The squirrel machine</span> was another interesting
+design patent. S. B. Ellithorp had received a mechanical patent for a
+two-thread, stationary-bobbin machine on August 26, 1857. That same
+month he published a picture of his machine, shown here as republished
+in the <i>Sewing Machine News</i>, vol. 7, no. 11, November 1885. The machine
+was designed in the shape of &ldquo;the ordinary gray squirrel so common
+throughout this country&mdash;an animal that is selected as a type of
+provident care and forethought, for its habits of frugality and for
+making provision for seasons of scarcity and want in times of
+plenty&mdash;and the different parts of the animal are each put to a useful
+purpose; the moving power being placed within its body, the needle stock
+through its head, one of its fore feet serving to guide the thread, and
+the other to hold down the cloth while being sewed, and the tip of its
+tail forming a support to the spool from which the thread is supplied.&rdquo;</p>
+
+
+<p  class="caption">Although the design patent was not secured until June 7, 1859, the
+inventor was reported to have been perfecting his machine for
+manufacture in 1857. Ellithorp planned &ldquo;to place them in market at a
+price that will permit families and individuals that have heretofore
+been deterred from purchasing a machine by the excessive and exorbitant
+price charged for those now in use, to possess one.&rdquo; Patent rights were
+sold under the name of Ellithorp &amp; Fox, but the machine was never
+manufactured on a large scale, if at all. No squirrel machines are known
+to have survived. (Smithsonian photo 53112.)</p></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_48" id="fig_48"></a>
+<img src="images/i119.png" width="300" height="270" alt="Figure 48." title="Figure 48." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 48.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Heyer&rsquo;s pocket sewing machine</span> patent model,
+November 17, 1863. This patent model is one piece, and measures about
+two inches in height and two inches in length. It will stitch&mdash;but only
+coarse, loosely woven fabrics. As can be expected, a great deal of
+manual dexterity is required to compensate for the omission of
+mechanical parts. Heyer advertised patent rights for sale, but evidence
+of manufactured machines of this type has yet to be discovered.
+(Smithsonian photo 18115-D[a].)</p></div>
+
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_49" id="fig_49"></a>
+<img src="images/i120.png" width="300" height="340" alt="Figure 49." title="Figure 49." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 49.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Heyer&rsquo;s machine</span> as illustrated in <i>Scientific
+American</i>, July 30, 1864. The smallest and most original of all the
+attempts to simplify machine sewing, Heyer&rsquo;s machine, which made a
+chainstitch, was constructed of a single strip of metal. The <i>Scientific
+American</i> stated: &ldquo;It is simply a steel spring ingeniously bent and
+arranged and it is said to sew small articles very well. The whole
+affair can easily be carried in the coat pocket.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="caption">One method of operation, vibrating with the finger, was illustrated. The
+machine could be operated also by holding it in the hand and pressuring
+it between two fingers. Cloth was inserted at <i>c</i>, and the prongs of the
+spring feed <i>f</i> carried it along after each stitch. It was stated that
+the needle could be cut from the same strip of metal, but it was advised
+also that the needle could be made as a separate piece and attached.
+(Smithsonian photo 48221.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_50" id="fig_50"></a>
+<img src="images/i121.png" width="300" height="186" alt="Figure 50." title="Figure 50." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 50.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Although Bean&rsquo;s and Rodgers&rsquo;</span> running-stitch
+machines, the second and fourth U.S. sewing-machine patents, experienced
+little commercial success, small manufactured machines based on Aaron
+Palmer&rsquo;s patent of May 13, 1862, were popular in the 1860s. The patent
+model above is a small brass implement with crimping gears that forced
+the fabric onto an ordinary sewing needle. The full needle was then
+removed from its position, and the thread was pulled through the fabric
+by hand. (Smithsonian photo 45524.)</p></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+<a name="fig_51" id="fig_51"></a>
+<img src="images/i122.png" width="600" height="398" alt="THE FAIRY SEWING-MACHINE. A HOLIDAY GIFT FOR THE
+WORK-TABLE" title="Figure 51." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 51.&mdash;<span class="smcap">One of the early commercial manufacturers</span> of the Palmer
+patent was Madame Demorest, a New York dressmaker. She advertised her
+Fairy sewing machine in <i>Godey&rsquo;s Lady&rsquo;s Book</i>, vol. 66, 1863, and
+stated: &ldquo;In the first place it will attract attention from its
+diminutive, fairy-like size, and with the same ease with which it can be
+carried, an important matter to a seamstress or dressmaker employed from
+house to house ... What no other sewing machine attempts to do, it runs,
+and does not stitch, it sews the more delicate materials an ordinary
+sewing machine cuts or draws....&rdquo; (Smithsonian photo 43690.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_52" id="fig_52"></a>
+<img src="images/i123.png" width="300" height="337" alt="Figure 52." title="Figure 52." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 52.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Fairy sewing machine</span> sold for five
+dollars and was adequate for its advertised purpose, sewing or running
+very lightweight fabrics. The machine was marked with the Palmer patent,
+the date May 13, 1862, and the name &ldquo;Mme. Demorest.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p class="caption">A machine identical to the Fairy, but bearing both Palmer patent dates,
+May 13, 1862, and June 19, 1863, and the name &ldquo;Gold Medal,&rdquo; was
+manufactured by a less-scrupulous company. This machine was advertised
+as follows: &ldquo;A first class sewing machine, handsomely ornamented, with
+all working parts silver plated. Put up in a highly polished mahogany
+case, packed ready for shipment. Price $10.00. This machine uses a
+common sewing needle, is very simple. A child can operate it. Cash with
+order.&rdquo; Some buyers felt they were swindled, as they had expected a
+heavy-duty machine, but no recourse could be taken against the
+advertiser. Another similar machine was also manufactured under the name
+&ldquo;Little Gem.&rdquo; (Smithsonian photo 45525.)</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p>
+<a name="fig_53" id="fig_53"></a>
+<img src="images/i124a.png" width="600" height="403" alt="Figure 53." title="Figure 53." />
+
+<p class="caption">Figure 53 and 54.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Running-stitch machines</span> were also
+attempted by several other inventors. Shaw &amp; Clark, manufacturers of
+chainstitch machines, patented this running-stitch machine on April 21,
+1863. From the appearance of the patent model, it was already in
+commercial production. On May 26, 1863, John D. Dale also received a
+patent for an improvement related to the method of holding the needle
+and regulating the stitches in a running-stitch machine. Dale&rsquo;s patent
+model was a commercial machine.</p>
+
+<p class="caption">John Heberling patented several improvements in 1878 and 1880. His
+machine, which was a little larger and in appearance resembled a more
+conventional type of sewing machine, was a commercial success. (Shaw &amp;
+Clark: Smithsonian photo P. 6395; Dale: Smithsonian photo P. 6394.)</p>
+<a name="fig_54" id="fig_54"></a><img src="images/i124b.png" width="600" height="361" alt="Figure 54." title="Figure 54." />
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="fnheader">FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> <i>Scientific American</i> (Jan. 29, 1859), vol. 14, no. 21, p.
+165. In a description of the new Willcox and Gibbs sewing machine the
+following observation is made: &ldquo;It is astonishing how, in a few years,
+the sewing machine has made such strides in popular favor, and become,
+from being a mechanical wonder, a household necessity and extensive
+object of manufacture. While the higher priced varieties have such a
+large sale, it is no wonder that the cheaper ones sell in such
+tremendous quantities, and that our inventors are always trying to
+produce something new and cheap.&rdquo;</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> Op. cit. (footnote 53), pp. 129-131.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> <i>Scientific American</i>, vol. 15, no. 21 (January 29, 1859),
+p. 165, and Willcox and Gibbs advertising brochure, 1864.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> <i>Scientific American</i>, vol. 12, no. 8 (November 1, 1856),
+p. 62.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> Ibid., vol. 1, no. 19 (November 5, 1859), p. 303.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> I. M. Singer &amp; Co.&rsquo;s Gazette, vol. 5, no. 4 (March 1,
+1859), p. 4, and a brochure, <i>Singer&rsquo;s New Family Sewing Machine</i> (in
+Singer Manufacturing Company, Historic Archives).</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><i>Appendixes</i></h2>
+<p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p>
+<h3 class="apphead">I. Notes on the Development and Commercial Use of the Sewing Machine</h3>
+
+<h4>INTRODUCTION</h4>
+
+<p>While researching the history of the invention and the development of
+the sewing machine, many items of related interest concerning the
+machine&rsquo;s economic value came to light. The manufacture of the machines
+was in itself a boost to the economy of the emerging &ldquo;industrial United
+States,&rdquo; as was the production of attachments for specialized stitching
+and the need for new types of needles and thread. Moreover, the
+machine&rsquo;s ability to speed up production permitted it to permeate the
+entire field of products manufactured by any type of stitching, from
+umbrellas to tents. Since this aspect of the story was not completed for
+this study, no attempt will be made to include any definitive statements
+on the economic importance of the sewing machine at home or abroad. This
+related information is of sufficient interest, however, to warrant
+inclusion in this first Appendix. Perhaps these notes will suggest areas
+of future research for students of American technology.</p>
+
+
+<h4>READY-MADE CLOTHING</h4>
+
+<p>Whether of the expensive or the inexpensive type, the sewing machine was
+much more than a popular household appliance. Its introduction had
+far-reaching effects on many different types of manufacturing
+establishments as well as on the export trade. The newly developing
+ready-made clothing industry was not only in a state of development to
+welcome the new machine but also was, in all probability, responsible
+for its immediate practical application and success.</p>
+
+<p>Until the early part of the second quarter of the 19th century, the
+ready-made clothing trade in the United States was confined almost
+entirely to furnishing the clothing required by sailors about to ship
+out to sea. The stores that kept these supplies were usually in the
+neighborhood of wharf areas. But other than the needs of these seamen,
+there was little market for ready-made goods. Out of necessity many of
+the families in the early years in this country had made their own
+clothing. As wealth was acquired and taste could be cultivated,
+professional seamstresses and tailors were in increasing demand, moved
+into the cities and towns, and even visited the smaller villages for as
+long as their services were needed. At the same time a related trade was
+also growing in the cities, especially in New York City, that of dealing
+in second-hand clothing. Industrious persons bought up old clothes,
+cleaned, repaired and refinished them, and sold the clothing to
+immigrants and transients who wished to avoid the high cost of new
+custom-made clothing.</p>
+
+<p>The repairing of this second-hand clothing led to the purchase of cheap
+cloth at auction&mdash; &ldquo;half-burnt,&rdquo; &ldquo;wet-goods,&rdquo; and other damaged yardage.
+When in excess of the repairing needs, this fabric was made into
+garments and sold with the second-hand items. Many visitors who passed
+through New York City were found to be potential buyers of this
+merchandise if a better class of ready-made clothes was made available.
+Manufacture began to increase. Tailors of the city began to keep an
+assortment of finished garments on hand. When visitors bought these,
+they were also very likely to buy additional garments for resale at
+home. The latter led to the establishment of the wholesale
+garment-manufacturing industry in New York about 1834-35.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the ready-made clothing establishments were small operations,
+not large factories. Large<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> quantities of cloth were purchased; cutting
+was done in multiple layers with tailor&rsquo;s shears. Since many
+seamstresses were needed, the garments were farmed out to the girls in
+their homes. The manufacture of garments in quantity meant that the
+profit on each garment was larger than a tailor could make on a single
+custom-made item. The appeal of increased profits influenced many to
+enter the new industry and, due to the ensuing competition, the retail
+cost of each garment was lowered. Just as the new businesses were
+getting underway, the Panic of 1837 ruined most of them. But the lower
+cost and the convenience of ready-made clothing had left its mark. Not
+only was the garment-manufacturing business re-established soon after
+the Panic had subsided, but by 1841 the value of clothing sold at
+wholesale in New York was estimated at $2,500,000 and by 1850&mdash;a year
+before sewing machines were manufactured in any quantity&mdash;there were
+4,278 clothing manufacturing establishments in the United States. Beside
+New York City, Cincinnati was also one of the important ready-made
+clothing centers. In 1850 the value of its products amounted to
+$4,427,500 and in 1860 to $6,381,190. Boston was another important
+center with a ready-made clothing production of $4,567,749 in 1860.
+Philadelphia, Baltimore, Louisville, and St. Louis all had a large
+wholesale clothing trade by 1860. Here was the ready market for a
+practical sewing machine.<a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a></p>
+
+<p>Clothing establishments grew and began to have agencies in small towns
+and the sewing work was distributed throughout the countryside. The new,
+competing sewing-machine companies were willing to deliver a machine for
+a small sum and to allow the buyer to pay a dollar or two a month until
+the full amount of the sale was paid. This was an extension of the
+hire-purchase plan (buying on credit) initiated by Clark of the Singer
+Company. The home seamstresses were eager to buy, for they were able to
+produce more piecework with a sewing machine and therefore earn more
+money. An example of the effect that the sewing machine had on the
+stitching time required was interestingly established through a series
+of experiments conducted by the Wheeler and Wilson company. Four hand
+sewers and four sewing-machine operators were used to provide the
+average figures in this comparative time study, the results of which
+were published in 1861;<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="center">NUMBER OF STITCHES PER MINUTE</p>
+
+<table summary="Number of stitches per minute in various fabrics by hand and machine">
+<tr><td></td><td><i>By Hand</i></td><td><i>By Machine</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Patent leather, fine stitching</td><td>7</td><td>175</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Binding hats</td><td>33</td><td>374</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Stitching vamped shoes</td><td>10</td><td>210</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Stitching fine linen</td><td>23</td><td>640</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Stitching fine silk</td><td>30</td><td>550</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">TIME FOR GARMENTS STITCHED</p>
+
+<table summary="Time for stitching various garments by hand and machine">
+<tr><td></td><td><i>By Hand</i></td><td><i>By Machine</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Frock coats</td><td>16 hrs. 35 min.</td><td>2 hrs. 38 min.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Satin vests</td><td>7 hrs. 19 min.</td><td>1 hr. 14 min.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Summer pants</td><td>2 hrs. 50 min.</td><td>0 hr. 38 min.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Calico dress</td><td>6 hrs. 37 min.</td><td>0 hr. 57 min.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Plain apron</td><td>1 hr. 26 min.</td><td>0 hr. 9 min.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Gentlemen&rsquo;s shirts</td><td>14 hrs. 26 min.</td><td>1 hr. 16 min.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The factory manufacturer, with the sewing work done at the factory, was
+also developing. In 1860, Oliver F. Winchester, a shirt manufacturer of
+New Haven, Connecticut, stated that his factory turned out 800 dozen
+shirts per week, using 400 sewing machines and operators to do the work
+of 2,000 hand sewers. The price for hand sewing was then $3 per week,
+which made labor costs $6000 per week. The 400 machine operators
+received $4 per week, making the labor cost $1600 per week. Allowing
+$150 as the cost of each machine, the sewing machines more than paid for
+themselves in less than 14 weeks, increased the operators pay by $1 a
+week, and lowered the retail cost of the item.<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a> The greatest savings
+of time, which was as much as fifty percent, was in the manufacture of
+light goods&mdash;such items as shirts, aprons, and calico dresses. The
+Commissioner of Patents weighed the monetary effect that this or any
+invention had on the economy against the monetary gain received by the
+patentee. When he found that the patentee had not been fairly
+compensated, he had the authority to grant a seven-year extension to the
+patent.<a name="FNanchor_76_76" id="FNanchor_76_76"></a>
+<a href="#Footnote_76_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The sewing machine also contributed to the popularity of certain
+fashions. Ready-made cloaks for women were a business of a few years&rsquo;
+standing when the sewing machine was adopted for their manufacture in
+1853. Machine sewing reduced the cost of constructing the garment by
+about eighty percent, thereby decreasing its price and increasing its
+popularity. In New York City alone, the value of the &ldquo;cloak and
+mantilla&rdquo; manufacture in 1860 was $618,400.<a name="FNanchor_77_77" id="FNanchor_77_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> Crinolines and
+hoopskirts were easier to stitch by machine than by hand, and these
+items had a spirited period of popularity due to the introduction of the
+sewing machine. Braiding, pleating, and tucking adorned many costume
+items because they could be produced by machine with ease and rapidity.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to using the sewing machine for the manufacture of shirts,
+collars, and related men&rsquo;s furnishings, the machine was also used in the
+production of men&rsquo;s and boy&rsquo;s suits and reportedly gave &ldquo;a vast impetus
+to the trade.&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_78_78" id="FNanchor_78_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a> The Army, however, was not quite convinced of the
+sewing machine&rsquo;s practical adaptation to its needs. Although a sewing
+machine was purchased for the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot as early
+as 1851, they had only six by 1860. On March 31, 1859, General Jesup of
+the Philadelphia Depot wrote to a Nechard &amp; Company stating that the
+machine sewing had been tried but was not used for clothing, only for
+stitching caps and chevrons. In another letter, on the same day, to
+&ldquo;Messers Hebrard &amp; Co., Louisiana Steam Clothing Factory, N. Orleans,&rdquo;
+Jesup states: &ldquo;Machine sewing has been tried with us, and though it
+meets the requirements of a populous and civilized life, it has been
+found not to answer for the hard wear and tear and limited means of our
+frontier service. Particular attention has been paid to this subject,
+and we have abandoned the use of machines for coats, jackets and
+trousers, etc. and use them on caps and bands that are not exposed to
+much hard usage....&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_79_79" id="FNanchor_79_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a> At this period prior to the Civil War, the Army
+manufactured its own clothing. As the demands of war increased, more and
+more of the Army&rsquo;s clothing supplies were furnished on open
+contract&mdash;with no specifications as to stitching.<a name="FNanchor_80_80" id="FNanchor_80_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a> Machine
+stitching, in fact, is found in most of the Civil War uniforms. One of
+the problems that most probably affected the durability of the machine
+stitching in the 1850s was the sewing thread, a problem that was not
+solved until the 1860s and which is discussed later under &ldquo;thread for
+the machine.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_55" id="fig_55"></a>
+<img src="images/i133.png" width="300" height="307" alt="Figure 55." title="Figure 55." /><p class="caption">Figure 55.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Blake&rsquo;s leather-stitching machine</span> patent
+model of July 6, 1858; the inventor claimed the arrangement of the
+mechanism used and an auxiliary arm capable of entering the shoe, which
+enabled the outer sole to be stitched both to the inner sole and to the
+upper part of the shoe. (Smithsonian photo 50361.)</p></div>
+
+
+<h4>SHOE MANUFACTURE</h4>
+
+<p>Another industry that was aided by the new invention was that of shoe
+manufacture. Although the earliest sewing-machine patents in the United
+States reflect the inventors&rsquo; efforts to solve the difficult task of
+leather stitching, and, although machines were used to a limited extent
+in stitching some parts of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> the shoe in the early and mid-1850s, it was
+not until 1858 that a machine was invented that could stitch the sole to
+the inner sole and to the upper part of the shoe. This was the invention
+of Lyman R. Blake and was patented by him on July 8, 1858; the patent
+model is shown in figure 55. Blake formed a chainstitch by using a
+hooked needle, which descended from above, to draw a thread through the
+supporting arm. Serving as the machine&rsquo;s bedplate, the arm was shaped to
+accommodate the stitching of all the parts of the shoe.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_56" id="fig_56"></a>
+<img src="images/i134a.png" width="300" height="162" alt="Figure 56." title="Figure 56." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 56.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Harris&rsquo;</span> patent thread cutter, 1872.
+(Smithsonian photo P-6397.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_57" id="fig_57"></a>
+<img src="images/i134b.png" width="600" height="100" alt="Figure 57." title="Figure 57." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 57.&mdash;<span class="smcap">West&rsquo;s</span> patent thread cutter, 1874.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63100.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_58" id="fig_58"></a>
+<img src="images/i134c.png" width="300" height="134" alt="Figure 58." title="Figure 58." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 58.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Karr&rsquo;s</span> patent needle threader, 1871.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63101.)</p></div>
+
+<p>The increased number of shoes required by the Army during the Civil War
+spurred the use of the sewing machine in their manufacture. The first
+&ldquo;machine sewed bootees&rdquo; were purchased by the Army in 1861. Inventors
+continued their efforts; the most prominent of these was Gordon McKay,
+who worked on an improvement of the Blake machine with Robert Mathies in
+1862 and then with Blake in 1864. Reportedly, the Government at first
+preferred the machine-stitched shoes as they lasted eight times longer
+than those stitched by hand; during the war the Army purchased 473,000
+pairs, but in 1871 the Quartermaster General wrote:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>No complaints regarding the quality of these shoes were received up
+to February 1867 when a Board of Survey, which convened at Hart&rsquo;s
+Island, New York Harbor reported upon the inferior quality of
+certain machine sewed bootees of the McKay patent, issued to the
+enlisted men at that post. The acting Quartermaster General, Col.
+D. H. Rucker, April 10, 1867, addressed a letter to all the
+officers in charge of depots, with instructions not to issue any
+more of the shoes in question, but to report to this office the
+quantity remaining in store. From these reports it appears that
+there were in store at that time 362,012 pairs M. S. Bootees, all
+of which were ordered to be, and have since been sold at public
+auction.<a name="FNanchor_81_81" id="FNanchor_81_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a></p></div>
+
+<p>The exact complaint against the shoes was not recorded. Possibly the
+entire shoe was stitched by machine. It was found that although
+machine-stitched shoes were more durable in some respects and the upper
+parts of most shoes continued to be machine stitched, pegged soles for
+the more durable varieties remained the fashion for a decade or more, as
+did custom hand-stitched shoes for those who could afford them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>OTHER USES</h4>
+
+<p>The use of sewing machines in all types of manufacturing that required
+stitching of any type continued to grow each year. While the principal
+purpose for which they were utilized continued to be the manufacture of
+clothing items, by the year 1900 they were also used for awnings, tents,
+and sails; cloth bags; bookbinding and related book manufacture; flags
+and banners; pocketbooks, trunks, and valises; saddlery and harnesses;
+mattresses; umbrellas; linen and rubber belting and hose; to the
+aggregate sum of nearly a billion dollars&mdash;$979,988,413.<a name="FNanchor_82_82" id="FNanchor_82_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a></p>
+
+
+<h4>SEWING-MACHINE ATTACHMENTS</h4>
+
+<p>The growing popularity of the sewing machine offered still another boost
+to the economy&mdash;the development of many minor, related manufacturing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>
+industries. The repetitive need for machine needles, the development of
+various types of attachments to simplify the many sewing tasks, and the
+ever-increasing need for more and better sewing thread&mdash;the sewing
+machine consumed from two to five times as much thread as stitching by
+hand&mdash;created new manufacturing establishments and new jobs.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_59" id="fig_59"></a>
+<img src="images/i136a.png" width="300" height="114" alt="Figure 59." title="Figure 59." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 59.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Shank&rsquo;s</span> patent bobbin winder, 1870.
+(Smithsonian photo P-6398.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_60" id="fig_60"></a>
+<img src="images/i136b.png" width="300" height="162" alt="Figure 60." title="Figure 60." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 60.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Sweet&rsquo;s</span> patent binder, 1853. (Smithsonian
+photo P-6396.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_61" id="fig_61"></a>
+<img src="images/i136c.png" width="300" height="330" alt="Figure 61." title="Figure 61." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 61.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Spoul&rsquo;s</span> patent braid guide, 1871.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63102.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_62" id="fig_62"></a>
+<img src="images/i137a.png" width="300" height="215" alt="Figure 62." title="Figure 62." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 62.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Rose&rsquo;s</span> patent embroiderer, 1881. (Smithsonian
+photo P-6399.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_63" id="fig_63"></a>
+<img src="images/i137b.png" width="300" height="279" alt="Figure 63." title="Figure 63." /><p class="caption">Figure 63.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Harris</span>&rsquo; patent buttonhole attachment, 1882.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63103.)</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">The method of manufacturing machine needles did not differ appreciably
+from the method used in making the common sewing needle, but the latter
+had never become an important permanent industry in the United States.
+Since the manufacture of practical sewing machines was essentially an
+American development and the eye-pointed needle a vital component of the
+machine, it followed that the manufacture of needles would also develop
+here. Although such a manufacture was established in 1852,<a name="FNanchor_83_83" id="FNanchor_83_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a> foreign
+imports still supplied much of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> need in the 1870s. As more highly
+specialized stitching machines were developed, an ever-increasing
+variety of needles was required, and the industry grew.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_64" id="fig_64"></a>
+<img src="images/i138.png" width="300" height="403" alt="Figure 64." title="Figure 64." /><p class="caption">Figure 64.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The treadle of the machine</span> was also used to
+help create music. George D. Garvie and George Wood received patent
+267,874, Nov. 21, 1882, for &ldquo;a cover for a sewing machine provided with
+a musical instrument and means for transmitting motion from the shaft of
+the sewing machine to the operating parts of the musical instrument.&rdquo;
+Although no patent model was submitted by the inventors, the &ldquo;Musical
+Sewing Machine Cover&rdquo; was offered for sale as early as October 1882, as
+shown by this advertisement that appeared in <i>The Sewing Machine News</i>
+that month. (Smithsonian photo 57983.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Soon after the sewing machine was commercially successful, special
+attachments for it were invented and manufactured. These ranged from the
+simplest devices for cutting thread to complicated ones for making
+buttonholes (see figs. 56 through 66).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_65" id="fig_65"></a>
+<img src="images/i139.jpg" width="300" height="361" alt="Figure 65." title="Figure 65." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 65.&mdash;<span class="smcap">This fanning attachment</span> was commercially
+available from James Morrison &amp; Co. in the early 1870s; it sold for one
+dollar as stated in the advertising brochure from which this engraving
+was copied. Other inventors also patented similar implements.
+(Smithsonian photo 45513.)</p></div>
+
+<p>The first patent for an attachment was issued in 1853 to Harry Sweet for
+a binder, used to stitch a special binding edge to the fabric. Other
+related attachments followed; among these were the hemmer which was
+similar to the binder, but turned the edge of the same piece of fabric
+to itself as the stitching was performed. Guides for stitching braid in
+any pattern, as directed by the movement of the goods below, were also
+developed; this was followed by the embroiderer, an elaborate form of
+braider. The first machine to stitch buttonholes was patented in 1854
+and the first buttonhole attachment in 1856, but the latter was not
+practical until improvements were made in the late 1860s. Special
+devices for refilling the bobbins were invented and patented as early as
+1862, and the popularity of tucked and ruffled garments inspired
+inventors to provide sewing-machine attachments for these purposes also.
+To keep the seamstress cool, C. D. Stewart patented an attachment for
+fanning the operator by an action derived from the treadle (fig. 65).
+While electric<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> sewing machines did not become common until the 20th
+century, several 19th-century inventors considered the possibility of
+attaching a type of motor to the machine. One was the 1871 patent of
+Solomon Jones, who added an &ldquo;electro motor&rdquo; to an 1865 Bartlett machine
+(fig. 66). The attachments that were developed during the latter part of
+the 19th century numbered in the thousands; many of these were
+superfluous. Most of the basic ones in use today were developed by the
+1880s and remain almost unchanged. Even the recently popular home zigzag
+machine, an outgrowth of the buttonhole machine, was in commercial use
+by the 1870s.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fig_66" id="fig_66"></a>
+<img src="images/i140.png" width="300" height="286" alt="Figure 66." title="Figure 66." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 66.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Jones &ldquo;electro motor&rdquo; patent model</span> of 1871 on
+a Bartlett sewing machine. (Smithsonian photo P-63104.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Sewing-machine improvements have been made from time to time. Like other
+mechanical items the machine has become increasingly automatic, but the
+basic principles remain the same. One of the more recent developments,
+patented<a name="FNanchor_84_84" id="FNanchor_84_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a> in 1933 by Valentine Naftali et al., is for a manufacturing
+machine that imitates hand stitching. This machine uses a two-pointed
+&ldquo;floating needle&rdquo; that is passed completely through the fabric&mdash;the very
+idea that was attempted over one hundred years ago. The machine is
+currently used by commercial manufacturers to produce decorative
+edge-stitching that very closely resembles hand stitching.</p>
+
+
+
+<h4>THREAD FOR THE MACHINE</h4>
+<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"><a name="fig_67" id="fig_67"></a>
+<img src="images/i141.png" width="200" height="511" alt="Figure 67." title="Figure 67." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 67.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Six-cord</span> cabled thread.</p></div>
+
+<p>The need for a good thread durable enough to withstand the action of
+machine stitching first created a problem and ultimately another new
+industry in this country. When the sewing machine was first developed
+the inventors necessarily had to use the sewing thread that was
+available. But, although the contemporary thread was quite suitable for
+hand sewing, it did not lend itself to the requirements of the machine.
+Cotton thread, then more commonly a three-ply variety, had a glazed
+finish and was wiry. Silk thread frequently broke owing to abrasion at
+the needle eye. For the most part linen thread was too coarse, or the
+fine variety was too expensive. All of the thread had imperfections that
+went unnoticed in the hands of a seamstress, but caused havoc in a
+machine.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> Quality silk thread that would withstand the rigors of machine
+stitching could be produced, but it was quite expensive also. A new type
+of inexpensive thread was needed; the obvious answer lay in improving
+the cotton thread.<a name="FNanchor_85_85" id="FNanchor_85_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a></p>
+
+<p>In addition to the popular three-ply variety, cotton thread was also
+made by twisting together either two single yarns or more than three
+yarns. Increasing the number of yarns produced a more cylindrical
+thread. The earliest record of a six-ply cotton thread was about
+1840.<a name="FNanchor_86_86" id="FNanchor_86_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a> And in 1850 C. E. Bennett of Portsmouth, New Hampshire,
+received a gold medal for superior six-cord, or six-ply, spool cotton at
+the Fair of the American Institute. But the thread was still wiry and
+far from satisfactory. By the mid-1860s the demonstrated need for thread
+manufacturers in America brought George A. Clark and William Clark,
+third generation cotton-thread manufacturers of Paisley, Scotland, to
+Newark, New Jersey, where they built a large mill. George Clark decided
+that a thread having both a softer finish and a different construction
+was needed. He produced a six-cord cabled thread, made up of three
+two-ply yarns (see fig. 67). The thread was called &ldquo;Clark&rsquo;s &lsquo;Our New
+Thread,&rsquo;&rdquo; which was later shortened to O.N.T. The basic machine-thread
+problem was solved. When other manufacturers used the six-cord cabled
+construction they referred to their thread as &ldquo;Best Six-Cord&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_87_87" id="FNanchor_87_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a> or
+&ldquo;Superior Six-Cord&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_88_88" id="FNanchor_88_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a> to distinguish it from the earlier variety made
+up of six single yarns in a simple twist. Another new side industry of
+the sewing machine was successfully established.</p>
+
+
+<h4>MANUFACTURE AND EXPORT, TO 1900</h4>
+
+<p>Sewing machines were a commodity in themselves, both at home and abroad.
+In 1850, there were no establishments exclusively devoted to the
+manufacture of sewing machines, the few constructed were made in small
+machine shops. The industry, however, experienced a very rapid growth
+during the next ten years. By 1860 there were 74 factories in 12
+States,<a name="FNanchor_89_89" id="FNanchor_89_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a> mainly in the East and Midwest,<a name="FNanchor_90_90" id="FNanchor_90_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> producing over 111,000
+sewing machines a year. In addition, there were 14 factories that
+produced sewing-machine cases and attachments. The yearly value of these
+products was approximately four and a half million dollars, of which the
+amount exported in 1861 was $61,000. Although the number of
+sewing-machine factories dropped from 74 in 1860 to 69 by 1870, the
+value of the machines produced increased to almost sixteen million
+dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The number of sewing-machine companies fluctuated greatly from year to
+year as many attempted to enter this new field of manufacture. Some were
+not able to make a commercial success of their products. The Civil War
+did not seem to be an important factor in the number of companies in
+business in the North. Although one manufacturer ceased operations in
+Richmond, Virginia, and a Vermont firm converted to arms manufacture,
+several companies began operations during the war years. Of the 69 firms
+in business in 1870, only part had been in business since 1860 or
+before; some were quite new as a result of the expiration of the Howe
+patent renewal in 1867.</p>
+
+<p>Probably due to the termination of many of the major patents, there were
+124 factories in 1880, but the yearly product value remained at sixteen
+million dollars. The 1890 census reports only 66 factories with a yearly
+production of a little less than the earlier decade. But by 1900, the
+yearly production of a like number of factories had reached a value of
+over twenty-one million, of which four and a half million dollars worth
+were exported annually. The total value of American sewing machines
+exported from 1860 to 1900 was approximately ninety million dollars. The
+manufacture of sewing machines made a significant contribution to the
+economic development of 19th-century America.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="fnheader">FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> <i>Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures, Clothing</i> (United
+States Census Office, published Government Printing Office: Washington,
+D.C., 1865).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> <i>Eighty Years of Progress of the United States</i> (New York,
+1861), vol. 2, pp. 413-429.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> <span class="smcap">George Gifford</span>, &ldquo;Argument of [George] Gifford in Favor of
+the Howe Application for Extension of Patent&rdquo; (New York: United States
+Patent Office, 1860).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_76_76" id="Footnote_76_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> Op. cit. (footnote 34).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> <i>Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures</i> (United States Census
+Office, published Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865),
+&ldquo;Women&rsquo;s Ready-Made Clothing,&rdquo; p. 83.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> Ibid., p. 64.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_79_79" id="Footnote_79_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> National Archives, Record Group 92, Office of the
+Quartermaster General, Clothing Book, Letters Sent, volume 17.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_80_80" id="Footnote_80_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> The author wishes to acknowledge the valuable help of Mr.
+Donald Kloster of the Smithsonian Institution&rsquo;s Division of Military
+History for the preceding four references and related information.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_81_81" id="Footnote_81_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> Letter of Nov. 4, 1871, to Col. Theo. A. Dodge, USA
+(Ret.), Boston, from Quartermaster General M. C. Meigs, in the National
+Archives, Record Group 92, Quartermaster General&rsquo;s Office, Letters Sent,
+Clothing Supplies, 1871.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_82_82" id="Footnote_82_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> <i>Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900</i>, vol. 10,
+<i>Manufactures</i>, Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United
+States Census Office, Washington, D.C., 1902).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_83_83" id="Footnote_83_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Charles M. Karch</span>, &ldquo;Needles: Historical and Descriptive,&rdquo;
+in <i>Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900</i>, vol. 10, <i>Manufactures</i>,
+Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United States Census
+Office: Washington, D.C., 1902), pp. 429-432.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_84_84" id="Footnote_84_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> U.S. patent 1,931,447, issued to Valentine Naftali, Henry
+Naftali, and Rudolph Naftali, Oct. 17, 1933. The Naftali machines are
+manufactured by the American Machine and Foundry Company and are called
+AMF Stitching Machines.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_85_85" id="Footnote_85_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> See Appendix V, p. 135, &ldquo;A Brief History of Cotton
+Thread.&rdquo;</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_86_86" id="Footnote_86_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> <i>The Story of Cotton Thread</i> (New York, The Spool Cotton
+Company, 1933).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_87_87" id="Footnote_87_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> J. and P. Coats spool cotton.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_88_88" id="Footnote_88_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> Willimantic spool cotton.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_89_89" id="Footnote_89_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island,
+Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois,
+Kentucky. <i>Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures</i> (United States Census
+Office, published by Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C.,
+1865.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_90_90" id="Footnote_90_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> Sewing-machine manufacture in the South was just beginning
+to blossom when it was curtailed by the outbreak of the Civil War. See
+Lester sewing machine, figure 109 on page 102.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p>
+<h3 class="apphead">II. American Sewing-Machine Companies of the 19th Century</h3>
+
+<p>During the latter half of the 19th century, there was a total of two
+hundred or more sewing-machine companies in the United States. Although
+a great many manufacturing-type machines were sold, this business was
+carried on by relatively few companies and most were primarily concerned
+with the family-type machines. A representative number of these family
+machines together with information concerning both the company and
+serial-number dating are found in figures 68 through 132. A great many
+of the companies were licensed by the &ldquo;Combination,&rdquo; but, in addition,
+some companies were constructing machines that did not infringe the
+patents, other companies infringed the patents but managed to avoid
+legal action, and there were numerous companies that mushroomed into
+existence after the &ldquo;Combination&rdquo; was dissolved in 1877. Most of the
+latter were very short-lived. It is difficult to establish the exact
+dates of some of these companies as many of their records were
+incomplete or have since disappeared; even a great many of the
+&ldquo;Combination&rdquo; records were lost by fire. A summary of the existing
+records kept by the &ldquo;Combination&rdquo; is given in figure 37.</p>
+
+<p>As will be noted in the subsequent listing, only a small percentage of
+the companies were in business for a period longer than ten years; of
+those that continued longer, all but a few had disappeared by 1910.
+Today there are about sixty United States sewing-machine companies. Most
+of them manufacture highly specialized sewing machines used for specific
+types of commercial work; only a few produce family or home-style
+machines. Foreign competition has increased, and the high cost of
+skilled labor in this country has made competition in this
+consumer-product field increasingly difficult. The countless varieties
+of American family sewing machines, so evident in the 19th century, have
+passed away.</p>
+
+<table summary="Sewing Machines, their Manufacturers and Dates of Manufacture">
+<tr><th><i>Sewing Machine</i></th><th><i>Manufacturer or Company</i></th><th><i>First Made or Earliest Record</i></th><th><i>Discontinued or Last Record</i></th></tr>
+<tr><td>Aetna</td><td>Aetna Sewing Machine Co., Lowell, Mass.</td><td>ca. 1867</td><td>ca. 1877</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Aiken and Felthousen</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;, Ithaca, N.Y.</td><td>ca. 1855</td><td>before 1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Alsop</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>&mdash;</td><td>ca. 1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td>American</td><td>American Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>1854</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>American Buttonhole, Overseaming and Sewing Machine (fig. <a href="#fig_68">68</a>)</td><td>American Buttonhole, Overseaming and Sewing Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>1869</td><td>ca. 1874</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later New American (fig. <a href="#fig_69">69</a>)</td><td>American Sewing Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>ca. 1874</td><td>ca. 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td>American Magnetic (fig. <a href="#fig_70">70</a>)</td><td>American Magnetic Sewing Machine Company, Ithaca, N.Y.</td><td>1853</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> Atlantic (fig. <a href="#fig_71">71</a>)</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1869</td><td>ca. 1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Atwater (fig. <a href="#fig_87">87</a>)</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1857</td><td>ca. 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Avery</td><td>Avery Sewing Machine Co., New York, N.Y.</td><td>1852</td><td>185-</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Avery</td><td>Avery Manufacturing Co., New York, N.Y.</td><td>1875</td><td>1886-1900</td></tr>
+<tr><td>A. Bartholf Manfr.</td><td rowspan="2">A. Bartholf, manufacturer, New York, N.Y.</td><td rowspan="2">ca. 1850</td><td rowspan="2">185-</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Blodgett &amp; Lerow patent 1849 (<i>see also</i>)</td></tr>
+<tr><td>A. Bartholf Manfr.</td><td rowspan="2">A. Bartholf, manufacturer, New York, N.Y.</td><td rowspan="2">1853</td><td rowspan="2">ca. 1856</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Howe&rsquo;s patent, 1846 (fig. <a href="#fig_72">72</a>)</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Bartholf</td><td>A. Bartholf, manufacturer</td><td>1857</td><td>1859</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Bartholf Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>1859</td><td>ca. 1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Bartlett (fig. <a href="#fig_73">73</a>)</td><td>Goodspeed &amp; Wyman</td><td>1866</td><td>ca. 1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Bartlett Sewing Machine Co., New York, N.Y.</td><td>ca. 1870</td><td>1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Baker</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>&mdash;</td><td>before 1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Bartram &amp; Fanton (fig. <a href="#fig_74">74</a>)</td><td>Bartram &amp; Fanton Mfg. Co., Danbury, Conn.</td><td>1867</td><td>1874</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Bay State</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>&mdash;</td><td>before 1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Beckwith (fig. <a href="#fig_75">75</a>)</td><td>Barlow &amp; Son, New York, N.Y.</td><td>1871</td><td>1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Beckwith Sewing Machine Co., New York, N.Y.</td><td>1872</td><td>ca. 1876</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Blees</td><td>Blees Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>1870</td><td>1873</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Blodgett &amp; Lerow</td><td>O. Phelps, Boston, Mass.</td><td>1849</td><td>1849</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">(fig. <a href="#fig_21">21</a>)</td><td>Goddard, Rice &amp; Co., Worcester, Mass.</td><td>1849</td><td>1850</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">(fig. <a href="#fig_20">20</a>)</td><td>A. Bartholf, manufacturer, New York, N.Y.</td><td>1849</td><td>185-</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Bond</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>&mdash;</td><td>before 1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Boston</td><td>J. F. Paul &amp; Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td>1880</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later New Boston</td><td>Boston Sewing Machine Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td>&mdash;</td><td>after 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Boudoir (fig. <a href="#fig_76">76</a>)</td><td>Daniel Harris, inventor and patentee<br />Manufacturer&mdash;several</td><td>1857</td><td>ca. 1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Bradford &amp; Barber</td><td>Bradford &amp; Barber, manufacturers, Boston, Mass.</td><td>1860</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Brattleboro</td><td>Samuel Barker and Thomas White, Brattleboro, Vt.</td><td>ca. 1858</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Buckeye</td><td rowspan="2">Wilson [W.G.] Sewing Machine Company, Cleveland, Ohio</td><td rowspan="2">ca. 1867</td><td rowspan="2">ca. 1876</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later New Buckeye (fig. <a href="#fig_77">77</a>) (<i>see</i> Wilson)</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>Buell, &ldquo;E. T. Lathbury&rsquo;s Patent&rdquo;</td><td> A. B. Buell, Westmoreland, New York</td><td> ca. 1860</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Burnet &amp; Broderick</td><td>Burnet, Broderick and Co.</td><td>1859</td><td>ca. 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Centennial (fig. <a href="#fig_78">78</a>)</td><td>Centennial Sewing Machine Co. (<i>see</i> McLean and Hooper), Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>1873</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Chamberlain</td><td> Woolridge, Keene and Moore, Lynn, Mass.</td><td> 1853</td><td> ca. 1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Chicago Singer</td><td>Scates, Tryber &amp; Sweetland Mfg. Co., Chicago, Ill.</td><td>1879</td><td>1882</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later Chicago</td><td>Chicago Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>1882</td><td>ca. 1885</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Chicopee</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">(<i>see</i> Shaw &amp; Clark)</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Clark (fig. <a href="#fig_42">42</a>)</td><td>D. W. Clark, Bridgeport, Conn.</td><td>ca. 1858</td><td>after 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Clark&rsquo;s Revolving Looper [double thread] (fig. <a href="#fig_79">79</a>)</td><td rowspan="2">Lamson, Goodnow &amp; Yale, Windsor, Vt.</td><td rowspan="2">1859</td><td rowspan="2">1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">(<i>see</i> Windsor)</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Clinton</td><td>Clinton Brothers, Ithaca, N.Y.</td><td>ca. 1861</td><td>ca. 1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Companion</td><td>Thurston Mfg. Co., Marlboro, N.H.</td><td>1882</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Crown</td><td rowspan="2">Florence Sewing Machine Co., Florence, Mass.</td><td rowspan="2">1879</td><td rowspan="2">after 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">(<i>see</i> Florence)</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Dauntless (later New Dauntless)</td><td>Dauntless Mfg. Co., Norwalk, Ohio</td><td>1877</td><td>after 1882</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Davis</td><td>J.A. Davis, New York, N.Y.</td><td>ca. 1860</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Davis Vertical Feed</td><td>Davis Sewing Machine Co., Watertown, N.Y.</td><td>1869</td><td>after 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Davis Vertical Feed and Rotary Shuttle</td><td>Davis Sewing Machine Co., Dayton, Ohio</td><td>after 1886</td><td>1924</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Decker (<i>also</i> The Princess)</td><td>Decker Mfg. Co., Detroit, Mich.</td><td>&mdash;</td><td>before 1881</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Demorest</td><td>Demorest Mfg. Co (formerly N.Y. Sewing Machine Co.)</td><td>1882</td><td>1908</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Diamond (formerly Sigwalt)</td><td>Sigwalt Sewing Machine Co., Chicago, Ill.</td><td>1880</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Domestic</td><td>Wm. A. Mack &amp; Co. and N. S. Perkins, Norwalk, Ohio</td><td>1864</td><td>1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>Domestic</td><td>Domestic Sewing Machine Co., Norwalk, Ohio, acquired by White Sewing Machine Co. in 1924 and maintained as a subsidiary at Cleveland, Ohio.</td><td>1869</td><td><a name="FNanchor_A_91" id="FNanchor_A_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_91" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Dorcas</td><td>John P. Bowker, Boston, Mass.</td><td>1853</td><td>185-</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Du Laney (fig. <a href="#fig_80">80</a>)</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Also called Little Monitor (<i>see</i>)</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Durgin</td><td>Charles A. Durgin, New York, N.Y.</td><td>1853</td><td>after 1855</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Eldredge</td><td>Eldredge Sewing Machine Co., Chicago, Ill.</td><td>1869</td><td>1890</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Elliptic</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Sloat&rsquo;s Elliptic</td><td>George B. Sloat and Co., Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>ca. 1858</td><td>ca. 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Sloat&rsquo;s Elliptic</td><td>Union Sewing Machine Co., Richmond, Va.</td><td>1860</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Elliptic</td><td>Wheeler &amp; Wilson Mfg. Co.</td><td>1861</td><td>ca. 1867</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Elliptic Sewing Machine Co., N.Y., N.Y.</td><td>1867</td><td>before 1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Empire (fig. <a href="#fig_86">86</a>)</td><td rowspan="2">Empire Sewing Machine Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td rowspan="2">ca. 1860</td><td rowspan="2">1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later Remington-Empire</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Empress</td><td>Manufactured on order through Jerome B. Secor, Bridgeport, Conn.</td><td>1877</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Estey</td><td>Estey Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>ca. 1880</td><td>1882</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Estey, Fuller-Model</td><td>Brattleboro Sewing Machine Co., Brattleboro, Vt.</td><td>1883</td><td>after 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Eureka (fig. <a href="#fig_81">81</a>)</td><td>Eureka Shuttle Sewing New York, N.Y.</td><td>1859</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Excelsior</td><td>Excelsior Sewing Machine Co., New York, N.Y.</td><td>1854</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Fairy (figs. <a href="#fig_51">51</a>, <a href="#fig_52">52</a>)</td><td>Madame Demorest, New York, N.Y.</td><td>1863</td><td>ca. 1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Finkle, M. (fig. <a href="#fig_82">82</a>)</td><td>M. Finkle, Boston, Mass.</td><td>1856</td><td>ca. 1859</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Finkle &amp; Lyon</td><td rowspan="2">Finkle &amp; Lyon Sewing Machine Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td rowspan="2">ca. 1859</td><td rowspan="2">1867</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later Victor</td></tr>
+<tr><td>First and Frost</td><td>First and Frost, New York, N.Y.</td><td>ca. 1859</td><td>ca. 1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Florence (fig. <a href="#fig_83">83</a>)</td><td rowspan="2">Florence Sewing Machine Co., Florence, Mass.</td><td rowspan="2">ca. 1860</td><td rowspan="2">after 1878</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later Crown</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Folsom</td><td rowspan="2">Folsom, J. G., Winchendon, Mass.</td><td rowspan="2">1865</td><td rowspan="2">ca. 1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">(<i>see</i> Globe and New England)</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Fosket and Savage</td><td>Fosket and Savage, Meriden, Conn.</td><td>1858</td><td>1859</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Foxboro</td><td>Foxboro Rotary Shuttle Co., Foxboro, Mass.</td><td>ca. 1882</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Franklin</td><td>Franklin Sewing Machine Co., Mason Village, N.H.</td><td>1871</td><td>1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>Free</td><td>Free Sewing Machine Co., Chicago and Rockford, Ill.</td><td>1898</td><td><a href="#Footnote_A_91" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Gardner</td><td>C. R. Gardner, Detroit, Mich.</td><td>1856</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Globe (figs. <a href="#fig_84">84</a>, <a href="#fig_85">85</a>)</td><td>J. G. Folsom, Winchendon, Mass.</td><td>1865</td><td>1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Gold Medal (chainstitch)</td><td>Gold Medal Sewing Machine Co., Orange, Mass.</td><td>1863</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Gold Medal (running stitch)</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1863</td><td>ca. 1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Gold Hibbard</td><td>Hibbard, B. S., &amp; Co.</td><td>1875</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Goodbody (sewing shears)</td><td>Goodbody Sewing Machine Co., Bridgeport, Conn.</td><td>1880</td><td>ca. 1890</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Goodes</td><td>Rex &amp; Bockius, Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>ca. 1876</td><td>before 1881</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Goodrich</td><td>H. B. Goodrich, Chicago, Ill.</td><td>ca. 1880</td><td>ca. 1895</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Grant Brothers (fig. <a href="#fig_90">90</a>)</td><td>Grant Bros. &amp; Co., Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>1867</td><td>ca. 1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td rowspan="2">Greenman and True (fig. <a href="#fig_91">91</a>)</td><td>Greenman and True Mfg. Co. Norwich, Conn.</td><td>1859</td><td>1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Morse and True</td><td>1860</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Green Mountain</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>ca. 1860</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Griswold Variety</td><td>L. Griswold, New York, N.Y.</td><td>ca. 1886</td><td>ca. 1890</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Grover and Baker (figs. <a href="#fig_34">34</a>-<a href="#fig_36">36</a>, <a href="#fig_92">92</a>)</td><td>Grover and Baker Sewing Machine Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td>1851</td><td>1875</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Hancock (figs. <a href="#fig_93">93</a>, <a href="#fig_94">94</a>)</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1868</td><td>before 1881</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Heberling Running Stitch</td><td>John Heberling</td><td>1878</td><td>ca. 1885</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Herron&rsquo;s Patent (fig. <a href="#fig_95">95</a>)</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1857</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Higby</td><td>Higby Sewing Machine Co., Brattleboro, Vt.</td><td>ca. 1882</td><td>after 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later Acme</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Home<br />Home Shuttle</td><td>Johnson, Clark &amp; Co., Orange, Mass.</td><td>1869</td><td>after 1876</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Homestead</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>ca. 1881</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td rowspan="2">Household</td><td>Providence Tool Co., Providence, R.I.</td><td>1880</td><td>ca. 1884</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Household Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>ca. 1885</td><td>1906</td></tr>
+<tr><td rowspan="2">Howe (figs. <a href="#fig_96">96</a>, <a href="#fig_97">97</a>)</td><td>Howe Sewing Machine Co., New York, N.Y.</td><td>1853</td><td>1873</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">(company of A. B. Howe sold to Howe Machine Co.)</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Howe (fig. <a href="#fig_98">98</a>)</td><td>Howe Machine Co., Bridgeport, Conn.</td><td>1867</td><td>1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td rowspan="2">Howe&rsquo;s Improved Patent (fig. <a href="#fig_107">107</a>)</td><td>Nichols and Bliss, Boston, Mass.</td><td>1852</td><td>1853</td></tr>
+<tr><td>J. B. Nichols &amp; Co.</td><td>1853</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">which became Leavitt</td><td>Nichols, Leavitt &amp; Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td>1854</td><td>1856</td></tr>
+<tr><td rowspan="2"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>N. Hunt, which became Hunt and Webster (figs. <a href="#fig_99">99</a>, <a href="#fig_100">100</a>)</td><td>N. Hunt &amp; Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td>1853</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Hunt and Webster, Boston, Mass.</td><td>1854</td><td>1857</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later Ladd and Webster (<i>see</i>)</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Improved Common Sense (fig. <a href="#fig_102">102</a>)</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>ca. 1870</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Independent Noiseless</td><td>Independent Sewing Machine Co., Binghamton, N.Y.</td><td>1873</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Jennie June</td><td>June Mfg. Co., Chicago, Ill.</td><td>1881</td><td>1890</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="allindent">Later Belvidere, Ill.</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Jewel</td><td>Jewel Mfg. Co., Toledo, Ohio</td><td>1884</td><td>after 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Johnson (fig. <a href="#fig_103">103</a>)</td><td>Emery, Houghton &amp; Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td>1856</td><td>after 1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Keystone</td><td>Keystone Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>before 1872</td><td>ca. 1874</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Ladd &amp; Webster (fig. <a href="#fig_101">101</a>)</td><td>Ladd, Webster &amp; Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td>1858</td><td>ca. 1866</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Ladies Companion (fig. <a href="#fig_115">115</a>)</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1858</td><td>ca. 1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">(<i>see</i> Pratt&rsquo;s Patent)</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&ldquo;Lady&rdquo; (fig. <a href="#fig_104">104</a>)</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1859</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Landfear&rsquo;s Patent (fig. <a href="#fig_105">105</a>)</td><td>Parkers, Snow, Brooks &amp; Co., West Meriden, Conn.</td><td>1857</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Langdon</td><td>L.W. Langdon</td><td>1856</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Lathrop (fig. <a href="#fig_106">106</a>)</td><td>Lathrop Combination Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>1873</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Leader</td><td>Leader Sewing Machine Co., Springfield, Mass.</td><td>1882</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Leavitt (fig. <a href="#fig_108">108</a>)</td><td>Nichols, Leavitt &amp; Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td>1855</td><td>1857</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Leavitt &amp; Co.</td><td>1857</td><td>ca. 1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Leavitt Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>ca. 1865</td><td>1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Leslie Revolving Shuttle</td><td>Leslie Sewing Machine Co., Cleveland, Ohio</td><td>1881</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Lester (fig. <a href="#fig_109">109</a>)</td><td>J.H. Lester, Brooklyn, N.Y.</td><td>ca. 1858</td><td>early 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Lester Mfg. Co., Richmond, Va.</td><td>early 1860</td><td>late 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Union Sewing Machine Co., Richmond, Va.</td><td>late 1860</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Little Gem</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>&mdash;</td><td>ca. 1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Little Giant</td><td>Domestic Sewing Machine Co., Norwalk, Ohio</td><td>ca. 1882</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Little Monitor (not associated with Monitor)</td><td>G.L. Du Laney, Brooklyn, N.Y.</td><td>ca. 1866</td><td>after 1875</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Love</td><td>Love Mfg. Co., Pittsburgh, Pa.</td><td>1885</td><td>after 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Lyon</td><td>Lyon Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>1879</td><td>ca. 1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Macauley</td><td>Thos. A. Macauley Mfg., New York, N.Y.</td><td>before 1879</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Manhattan</td><td>Manhattan Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>ca. 1868</td><td>ca. 1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>McKay</td><td>McKay Sewing Machine Assoc.</td><td>1870</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+<tr><td>McLean and Hooper</td><td>B. W. Lacy &amp; Co., Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>ca. 1869</td><td>ca. 1873</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="allindent">(<i>see</i> Centennial)</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Meyers</td><td>J. M. Meyers</td><td>1859</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Miller&rsquo;s Patent</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1853</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Monitor (fig. <a href="#fig_88">88</a>)</td><td>Shaw &amp; Clark Sewing Machine Co., Biddeford, Me.</td><td>1860</td><td>1864</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Moore</td><td>Moore Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>ca. 1860</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Morey &amp; Johnson (fig. <a href="#fig_18">18</a>)</td><td>Safford &amp; Williams Makers, Boston, Mass.</td><td>1849</td><td>ca. 1851</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Morrison</td><td>Morrison, Wilkinson &amp; Co., Hartford, Conn.</td><td>1881</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Mower</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>ca. 1863</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>National</td><td>Johnson, Clark &amp; Co., Orange, Mass.</td><td>1874</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>National (also sold under distributor&rsquo;s name)</td><td>National Sewing Machine Co. (consolidation of the June and Eldredge Companies), Belvidere, Ill.</td><td>1890</td><td>1953</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Ne Plus Ultra (fig. <a href="#fig_110">110</a>)</td><td>O. L. Reynolds Manufacturing Co., Dover, N.H.</td><td>1857</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Nettleton &amp; Raymond (fig. <a href="#fig_111">111</a>)</td><td>Nettleton &amp; Raymond, Brattleboro, Vt.</td><td>ca. 1857</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>New England (figs. <a href="#fig_112">112</a>, <a href="#fig_113">113</a>)</td><td>Charles Raymond (also by:</td><td>ca. 1859</td><td>1866</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Grout &amp; White, Orange, Mass.;</td><td>1862</td><td>1863</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>William Grout, Winchendon, Mass.;</td><td>1863</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>and J. G. Folsom, Winchendon, Mass.)</td><td>1865</td><td>1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Newell</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1881</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>New Fairbanks</td><td>J. H. Drew &amp; Co.</td><td>1878</td><td>1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Thomas M. Cochrane Co., Belleville, Ill.</td><td>1880</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>New Home</td><td>New Home Sewing Machine Co., Orange, Mass. (in 1928 became affiliated with Free Sewing Machine Co.)</td><td>1876</td><td><a href="#Footnote_A_91" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>New York</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;, New York, N.Y.</td><td>ca. 1855</td><td>ca. 1855</td></tr>
+<tr><td>New York Shuttle</td><td>N.Y. Sewing Machine Co., New York, N.Y. (later Demorest Mfg. Co.)</td><td>before 1880</td><td>1882</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>Noble</td><td>Noble Sewing Machine Co., Erie, Pa.</td><td>before 1881</td><td>after 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Novelty</td><td>C. A. French, Boston, Mass.</td><td>1869</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Old Dominion</td><td>Old Dominion Sewing Machine Co., Richmond, Va.</td><td>ca. 1858</td><td>1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Pardox</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>ca. 1865</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Parham</td><td>Parham Sewing Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>ca. 1869</td><td>ca. 1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Parker</td><td>Charles Parker Co., Meriden, Conn.</td><td>before 1860</td><td>after 1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="allindent">Later Parker Sewing Machine Co.</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Pearl</td><td>&mdash;&mdash; Bennett</td><td>ca. 1859</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Philadelphia</td><td>Philadelphia Sewing Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>ca. 1872</td><td>ca. 1881</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Post Combination</td><td>Post Combination Sewing Machine Co., Washington, D.C.</td><td>before 1885</td><td>after 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Pratt&rsquo;s Patent (fig. <a href="#fig_114">114</a>)</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1857</td><td>ca. 1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later Ladies Companion</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Queen</td><td>Dauntless Mfg Co., Norwalk, Ohio</td><td>ca. 1881</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Quaker City (fig. <a href="#fig_116">116</a>)</td><td>Quaker City Sewing Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>1859</td><td>ca. 1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Remington Empire<br />Later Remington</td><td>Remington Empire Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>1870</td><td>1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>E. Remington &amp; Sons, Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>1873</td><td>ca. 1894</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Robertson (dolphin &amp; cherub) (figs. <a href="#fig_40">40</a>, <a href="#fig_41">41</a>)</td><td>T. W. Robertson, New York, N.Y.</td><td>1855</td><td>after 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Robinson</td><td>F. R. Robinson, Boston, Mass.</td><td>1853</td><td>ca. 1855</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Robinson&rsquo;s patent sewing machine with Roper&rsquo;s improvement (fig. <a href="#fig_117">117</a>)</td><td>Howard &amp; Davis, Boston, Mass.</td><td>1855</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later Robinson and Roper (fig. <a href="#fig_118">118</a>)</td><td>same</td><td>1856</td><td>before 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Royal St. John (formerly St. John)</td><td>Royal Sewing Machine Co., Springfield, Ohio (later Free Co.)</td><td>ca. 1883</td><td>1898</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Ruddick</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>ca. 1860</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Secor</td><td>Secor Machine Co., Bridgeport, Conn.</td><td>1870</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Sewing Shears (Hendrick&rsquo;s patent) (fig. <a href="#fig_43">43</a>)</td><td>Nettleton &amp; Raymond, Bristol, Conn.</td><td>ca. 1859</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Sewing Shears</td><td>American Hand Sewing Machine Co., Bridgeport, Conn.</td><td>ca. 1884</td><td>ca. 1900</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>Shaw &amp; Clark</td><td>Shaw &amp; Clark Co., Biddeford, Me.</td><td>ca. 1857</td><td>1866</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Running Stitch Machine (fig. <a href="#fig_53">53</a>)</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Chainstitch Machine (fig. <a href="#fig_119">119</a>)</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Chainstitch Machine (fig. <a href="#fig_120">120</a>)</td><td>Shaw &amp; Clark Co., Chicopee Falls, Mass.</td><td>1867</td><td>1868</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Chicopee Sewing Machine Co., Chicopee Falls, Mass.</td><td>1868</td><td>ca. 1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Sigwalt</td><td>Sigwalt Sewing Machine Co., Chicago, Ill.</td><td>ca. 1879</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Singer (figs. <a href="#fig_28">28</a>, <a href="#fig_29">29</a>, <a href="#fig_30">30</a>, <a href="#fig_32">32</a>, <a href="#fig_33">33</a>, <a href="#fig_121">121</a>, <a href="#fig_122">122</a>)</td><td>I. M. Singer &amp; Co. (later Singer Mfg. Co.). Moved from Boston to New York to Elizabethport, N.J. (factory).</td><td>1851</td><td><a href="#Footnote_A_91" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Springfield</td><td>Springfield Sewing Machine Co., Springfield, Mass.</td><td>1880</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Standard (chainstitch) (fig. <a href="#fig_123">123</a>)</td><td>&mdash;&mdash;</td><td>1870</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Standard (shuttle)</td><td>Standard Shuttle Sewing Machine Co., New York, N.Y.</td><td>1874</td><td>ca. 1881</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Standard</td><td>Standard Sewing Machine Co., Cleveland, Ohio (acquired by Singer Co.)</td><td>1884</td><td>ca. 1930</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Stewart</td><td>Henry Stewart &amp; Co., N.Y., N.Y.</td><td>1874</td><td>1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later New Stewart</td><td>Stewart Mfg Co.</td><td>1880</td><td>ca. 1883</td></tr>
+<tr><td>St. John (later Royal St. John)</td><td>St. John Sewing Machine Co., Springfield, O.</td><td>1870</td><td>ca. 1883</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Taggart &amp; Farr (figs. <a href="#fig_124">124</a>, <a href="#fig_125">125</a>)</td><td>Taggart &amp; Farr, Philadelphia, Pa.</td><td>1858</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Thompson</td><td>C. F. Thompson Co.</td><td>1871</td><td>1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>T. C. Thompson, Ithaca, N.Y.</td><td>ca. 1854</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Union</td><td>Johnson, Clark &amp; Co., Orange, Mass.</td><td>1876</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Victor</td><td>Finkle &amp; Lyon Mfg. Co.</td><td>1867</td><td>ca. 1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Victor Sewing Machine Co., Middletown, Conn.</td><td>ca. 1872</td><td>ca. 1890</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Wardwell</td><td>Wardwell Mfg. Co., St. Louis, Mo.</td><td>ca. 1876</td><td>1890</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Watson (fig. <a href="#fig_126">126</a>)</td><td>Jones &amp; Lee</td><td>1850</td><td>ca. 1853</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Watson &amp; Wooster, Bristol, Conn.</td><td>ca. 1853</td><td>ca. 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Waterbury</td><td>Waterbury Co., Waterbury, Conn.</td><td>1853</td><td>ca. 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Weed</td><td>T. E. Weed &amp; Co. (became Whitney &amp; Lyons)</td><td>1854</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>Weed</td><td>Weed Sewing Machine Co. (reorganized from Whitney &amp; Lyons), Hartford, Conn.</td><td>1865</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Family Favorite</td><td></td><td>1867</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Manu. Favorite</td><td></td><td>1868</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">General Favorite</td><td></td><td>1872</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Hartford</td><td></td><td>1881</td><td>ca. 1900</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Wesson</td><td>Farmer &amp; Gardner Manufacturing Co.</td><td>1879</td><td>1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>D. B. Wesson Sewing Machine Co., Springfield, Mass.</td><td>1880</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>West &amp; Willson (fig. <a href="#fig_127">127</a>)</td><td>West &amp; Willson Co., Elyria, Ohio</td><td>1858</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>A. B. Wilson (fig. <a href="#fig_23">23</a>)</td><td>E. E. Lee &amp; Co., New York, N.Y.</td><td>1851</td><td>1852</td></tr>
+<tr><td>A. B. Wilson&rsquo;s patent seaming lathe</td><td>Wheeler, Wilson, Co., Watertown, N.Y.</td><td>late 1851</td><td>1856</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">Later Wheeler and Wilson (fig. <a href="#fig_26">26</a>, <a href="#fig_27">27</a>, <a href="#fig_128">128</a>, <a href="#fig_129">129</a>)</td><td>Wheeler &amp; Wilson Mfg.Co., Bridgeport, Conn.</td><td>1856</td><td>1905</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td>Singer Co., Bridgeport, Conn.</td><td>1905</td><td>1907</td></tr>
+<tr><td>White (fig. <a href="#fig_130">130</a>)</td><td>White Sewing Machine Co., Cleveland, Ohio</td><td>1876</td><td><a href="#Footnote_A_91" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Whitehill</td><td>Whitehill Mfg. Co., Milwaukee, Wis.</td><td>ca. 1875</td><td>after 1886</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Whitney</td><td>Whitney Sewing Machine Co., Paterson, N.J.</td><td>ca. 1872</td><td>ca. 1880</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Whitney &amp; Lyons</td><td>Whitney &amp; Lyons (a machine based on the 1854 patent of T. E. Weed)</td><td>ca. 1859</td><td>ca. 1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Wickersham</td><td>Butterfield &amp; Stevens Mfg. Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td>1853</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Willcox &amp; Gibbs (figs. <a href="#fig_39">39</a>, <a href="#fig_131">131</a>)</td><td>Willcox &amp; Gibbs Sewing Machine Co., New York, N.Y.</td><td>1857</td><td><a href="#Footnote_A_91" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Williams &amp; Orvis</td><td>Williams &amp; Orvis Sewing Machine Co., Boston, Mass.</td><td>ca. 1859</td><td>after 1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Wilson (fig. <a href="#fig_89">89</a>)</td><td>Wilson (W.G.) Sewing Machine Co., Cleveland, Ohio</td><td>ca. 1867 </td><td>after 1885</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">(<i>see</i> Buckeye)</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Windsor (one thread)</td><td>Vermont Arms Co., Windsor, Vt.</td><td>1856</td><td>1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Windsor</td><td>Lamson, Goodnow &amp; Yale, Windsor, Vt.</td><td>1859</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">(<i>see</i> Clark&rsquo;s Revolving Looper)</td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>Name Unknown</td><td>John W. Beane</td><td>1853</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">&ldquo;</td><td>Henry Brind</td><td>1860</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">&ldquo;</td><td>Garfield Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>1881</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">&ldquo;</td><td>Geneva Sewing Machine Co.</td><td>1880</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">&ldquo;</td><td>Gove &amp; Howard</td><td>1855</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">&ldquo;</td><td>Charles W. Howland, Wilmington, Del.</td><td>ca. 1860</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">&ldquo;</td><td>Miles Greenwood &amp; Co., Cincinnati, Ohio</td><td>ca. 1861</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">&ldquo;</td><td>Hood, Batelle &amp; Co.</td><td>1854</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">&ldquo;</td><td>Wells &amp; Haynes</td><td>1854</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="allindent">&ldquo;</td><td>Wilson H. Smith, Birmingham, Conn.</td><td>ca. 1860</td><td>&mdash;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_91" id="Footnote_A_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_91"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Still in existence.</p></div>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_68" id="fig_68"></a>
+<img src="images/i156a.png" width="300" height="262" alt="Figure 68." title="Figure 68." />
+</div><p class="caption3">Figure 68.&mdash;<span class="smcap">American Buttonhole</span>, Overseaming &amp; Sewing Machine of about
+1870. Using serial numbers, these machines can be dated approximately as
+follows: 1-7792, 1869; 7793-22366, 1870; 22367-42488, 1871; 42489-61419,
+1872; 61420-75602, 1873; 75603-89132, 1874; 89133-103539, 1875; and
+103540-121477, 1876. Figures are not available for the years from 1877
+to 1886. (Smithsonian photo 46953-E.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_69" id="fig_69"></a>
+<img src="images/i156b.png" width="300" height="372" alt="Figure 69." title="Figure 69." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 69.&mdash;<span class="smcap">(New) American sewing machine</span> of about 1874.
+Illustration is from a contemporary advertising brochure. (Smithsonian
+photo 33507.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_70" id="fig_70"></a>
+<img src="images/i157.png" width="600" height="879" alt="Figure 70." title="Figure 70." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 70.&mdash;<span class="smcap">American Magnetic sewing machine</span>, 1854.
+Machines of this type were manufactured for only two years under the
+patent of Thomas C. Thompson, March 29, 1853, and later under the
+patents of Samuel J. Parker, April 11, 1854, and Simon Coon, May 9,
+1854. On September 30, 1853, Elias Howe listed receipts of $1000 from
+the American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co. for patent infringement. The
+machines manufactured after that date carry the Howe name and 1846
+patent date to show proper licensing. Judging by Howe&rsquo;s usual license
+fee of $25 per machine, about 40 machines were manufactured prior to
+September 1853. The company was reported to have made about 600 machines
+in 1854 before it went out of business. The only American Magnetic
+machine known to be in <a name="corr_4" id="corr_4"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: eixstence">existence</ins> is in the collection of the Northern
+Indiana Historical Society at South Bend, Indiana. (<i>Photo courtesy of
+the Northern Indiana Historical Society.</i>)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_71" id="fig_71"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i158.png" width="600" height="505" alt="Figure 71." title="Figure 71." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 71.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Atlantic sewing machine, 1869.</span> This machine
+is typical of the many varieties manufactured for a very short time in
+the 1860s and 1870s. It is about the size of the average hand-turned
+variety, 8 by 10 inches, but lighter in weight. The frame design was the
+patent of L. Porter, May 11, 1869, and the mechanism was patented by
+Alonzo Porter, February 8, 1870. The latter patent model bears the
+painted legend &ldquo;Atlantic&rdquo; and is stamped &ldquo;Aprl 1, 69,&rdquo; indicating that
+it was probably already in commercial production. This date possibly may
+refer also to L. Porter&rsquo;s design patent, since actual date of issue was
+usually later than date of application. (Smithsonian photo 48329-A.)</p>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span><a name="fig_72" id="fig_72"></a>
+<img src="images/i159.png" width="450" height="541" alt="Figure 72." title="Figure 72." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 72.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A. Bartholf sewing machine, 1853.</span> Abraham
+Bartholf of New York began manufacturing Blodgett &amp; Lerow machines (see
+fig. 20) about 1850; the style and mechanics of these machines, however,
+were primarily those of the Blodgett &amp; Lerow patent as manufactured by
+O. C. Phelps and Goddard, Rice &amp; Co. For this reason they are considered
+Blodgett &amp; Lerow&mdash;not Bartholf&mdash;machines.</p>
+
+<p>The true Bartholf machine evolved when the manufacturer substituted
+Howe&rsquo;s reciprocating shuttle for the rotary shuttle of the Blodgett &amp;
+Lerow machine, continuing to manufacture the machine in his own adapted
+style. Bartholf manufactured reciprocating-shuttle machines as early as
+1853, and his was one of the first companies licensed by Howe.</p>
+
+<p>All Bartholf machines licensed under Howe&rsquo;s patent carry the Howe name
+and patent date. They are sometimes mistakenly referred to as Howe
+machines, but they are no more Howe machines than those manufactured by
+Wheeler &amp; Wilson, Singer, or many others.</p>
+
+<p>On April 6, 1858, Bartholf was granted a patent for an improvement of
+the shuttle carrier. He continued to manufacture sewing machines under
+the name &ldquo;Bartholf Sewing Machine Co.&rdquo; until about 1865.</p>
+
+<p>Using serial numbers, Bartholf machines can be dated approximately as
+follows:</p>
+
+<table summary="Serial Numbers and Dates of Bartholf sewing machines">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-20</td><td>1850</td></tr>
+<tr><td>21-50</td><td>1851</td></tr>
+<tr><td>51-100</td><td>1852</td></tr>
+<tr><td>101-235</td><td>1853</td></tr>
+<tr><td>236-290</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td>291-321</td><td>1855</td></tr>
+<tr><td>322-356</td><td>1856</td></tr>
+<tr><td>357-387</td><td>1857</td></tr>
+<tr><td>388-590</td><td>1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td>591-1337</td><td>1859</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>No record of the number of machines produced by Bartholf after 1859 is
+available.</p>
+
+<p>The Bartholf machine illustrated bears the serial number 128 and the
+inscription &ldquo;A. Bartholf Manfr., NY&mdash;Patented Sept. 1846 E. Howe, Jr.&rdquo;
+This machine is in the collection of the Baltimore County Historical
+Society. Note the close similarity between it and the 1850 Blodgett &amp;
+Lerow machine manufactured by Bartholf. (<i>Photo courtesy of the
+Baltimore County Historical Society.</i>)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>
+<a name="fig_73" id="fig_73"></a>
+<img src="images/i160.png" width="300" height="209" alt="Figure 73." title="Figure 73." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 73.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Bartlett sewing machine, 1867.</span> The Bartlett
+machine was first manufactured in 1866 under the January 31, 1865, and
+October 10, 1865, patents of Joseph W. Bartlett. The machines were made
+by Goodspeed &amp; Wyman for the Bartlett Co. and were so marked. The
+inventor received another patent on April 7, 1868, and later machines
+carry this third date also. Although the first few hundred machines did
+not bear the dates of patents held by the &ldquo;Combination,&rdquo; before the end
+of the first year of production Bartlett was paying royalties. He
+continued to manufacture sewing machines until the early seventies when
+he converted to the manufacturing of street lamps.</p>
+
+<p>Using serial numbers, Bartlett&rsquo;s machines can be dated approximately as
+follows: 1-1000, 1866; 1001-3126, 1867; 3127-?, 1868. There is no record
+of serial numbers for the succeeding years. (Smithsonian photo
+45524-G.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_74" id="fig_74"></a>
+<img src="images/i161.png" width="300" height="210" alt="Figure 74." title="Figure 74." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 74.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Bartram &amp; Fanton sewing machine</span>, 1867. These
+machines were first manufactured in 1867 under the patents of W. B.
+Bartram, notably his patent of January 1, 1867. Three machines were
+exhibited at The Eleventh Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association in 1869 where they were awarded a bronze medal.
+They were compared favorably to the Willcox &amp; Gibbs machine (see fig.
+39), which they resembled. Bartram received additional patents in the
+early seventies and also manufactured lockstitch machines.</p>
+
+<p class="caption3">Using serial numbers, machines may be approximately dated as follows:
+1-2958, 1867; 2959-3958, 1868; 3959-4958, 1869; 4959-5958, 1870;
+5959-6962, 1871; 6963-7961, 1872; 7962-8961, 1873; and 8962-9211, 1874.
+(Smithsonian photo P63198.)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_75" id="fig_75"></a>
+<img src="images/i162.png" width="300" height="415" alt="Figure 75." title="Figure 75." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 75.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Beckwith sewing machine</span>, 1871. Among the
+inventors whose patent claims were &ldquo;to produce a cheap and effective
+sewing machine&rdquo; was William G. Beckwith. His machine was first
+manufactured by Barlow &amp; Son, and it realized considerable success in
+the few years of its production. The earliest model was operated like a
+pair of scissors or with a cord and ring as illustrated. Beckwith later
+added a hand crank. The machine was purchased in Crewe, Cheshire,
+England; it is stamped &ldquo;Pat. April 18, 71 by Wm. G. Beckwith, Foreign
+Pats. Secured, Barlow &amp; Son Manuf. N.Y., [serial number] 706.&rdquo; By 1874
+the machines were marked &ldquo;Beckwith S.M. Co.&rdquo; and two 1872 patent dates
+were added.</p>
+
+<p class="caption3">Using serial numbers, machines may be dated approximately as follows:
+1-3500, 1871; 3501-7500, 1872; 7501-12500, <a name="corr_5" id="corr_5"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: 8173">1873</ins>; 12501-18000, 1874;
+18001-23000, 1875; 23001-?, 1876. (Smithsonian photo 46953-C.)</p>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_76" id="fig_76"></a>
+<img src="images/i163.png" width="300" height="216" alt="Figure 76." title="Figure 76." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 76.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Boudoir sewing machine, 1858.</span> This machine, a
+single-thread, chainstitch model was based on the patents of Daniel
+Harris, dated June 9, 1857, June 16, 1857, and October 5, 1858.
+Manufactured primarily by Bennett in Chicago in 1859, it also may have
+been produced in the East, although no manufacturer&rsquo;s name can be found.</p>
+
+<p>In 1860, the Boudoir, also called Harris&rsquo;s Patent sewing machine, was
+exhibited at the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association
+Exhibition where it won a silver medal for &ldquo;its combination of parts,
+its beauty and simplicity, together with its ease of operation.&rdquo; At this
+time the machine was described as making a &ldquo;double lock stitch&rdquo; (another
+name for the double chainstitch). It was also described as having been
+before the public for some time and combining &ldquo;the improvements of
+others for which the parties pay license.&rdquo; The machine head was
+positioned on the stand similarly to that of the West &amp; Willson (fig.
+127) and stitched from left to right.</p>
+
+<p>It is not known exactly how many of these machines were made or how long
+they were in vogue. Manufacture, although probably ceasing in the 1860s,
+is known to have been discontinued before 1881, when a list of obsolete
+sewing machines was published in <i>The Sewing Machine News</i>. (Smithsonian
+photo P63199.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_77" id="fig_77"></a>
+<img src="images/i164.png" width="300" height="263" alt="Figure 77." title="Figure 77." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 77.&mdash;<span class="smcap">(New) Buckeye sewing machine</span> of about 1875.
+The Buckeye machine was one of several manufactured by W. G. Wilson of
+Cleveland, Ohio. It was licensed under Johnson&rsquo;s extended patent of
+April 18, 1867. Although it was small and hand turned, it used two
+threads and a shuttle to form a lockstitch. The machine was sufficiently
+popular for Wilson to introduce an improved model in the early 1870s,
+which he called the New Buckeye. W. G. Wilson continued to manufacture
+sewing machines until about the mid-eighties, although the Buckeye
+machines were discontinued in the seventies. (Smithsonian photo
+45524-A.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_78" id="fig_78"></a>
+<img src="images/i165.png" width="600" height="409" alt="Figure 78." title="Figure 78." />
+</div><p class="caption3">Figure 78.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Centennial sewing machine</span>, 1876. The
+Centennial machine was basically a McLean and Hooper sewing machine
+which was renamed to take advantage of the coming Centennial
+celebration. It was based on the patents of J. N. McLean, March 30,
+1869, and August 2, 1870, and made a two-thread chainstitch. Only about
+five hundred Centennial machines were manufactured in 1873, but by 1876
+over three thousand had been constructed. The machines were advertised
+on white circulars which were printed in red and blue, and engraved with
+two women sewing, one by hand, labeled &ldquo;Sewing in 1776,&rdquo; and one at a
+Centennial sewing machine, labeled &ldquo;Sewing in 1876.&rdquo; There is no record
+that the machines were made after 1876. (Smithsonian photo 48216-T.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_79" id="fig_79"></a>
+<img src="images/i166.png" width="300" height="263" alt="Figure 79." title="Figure 79." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 79.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Clark&rsquo;s</span> Revolving-Looper double-thread sewing
+machine, 1860. This machine was manufactured by Lamson, Goodnow, &amp; Yale
+of Windsor, Vermont. It was an attempt to improve on the combined ideas
+of the Grover and Baker machine, the Nettleton &amp; Raymond machine, and
+the earlier single-thread Windsor machine. The improvements were made
+and patented by Edwin Clark on December 6, 1859. Widely advertised, the
+machines sold for $35 with a foot-power table. They could also be
+operated by hand. Over three thousand were manufactured and sold, and
+preparations were being made to continue manufacture of the earlier
+single-thread Windsor, originally made by the company&rsquo;s predecessor,
+Vermont Arms Co., when the Civil War broke out. A flood of arms orders
+arrived, and the sewing-machine manufacture was discontinued early in
+the summer of 1861. The sewing-machine equipment and business was sold
+to Grout &amp; White of Massachusetts. (Smithsonian photo 48216.)</p>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_80" id="fig_80"></a>
+<img src="images/i167.png" width="400" height="460" alt="Figure 80." title="Figure 80." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 80.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Du Laney sewing machine</span> of about 1872. Most
+of the small, simple, chainstitch sewing machines of this period were
+constructed so that they could either be turned by hand or set into a
+treadle-powered table. Du Laney&rsquo;s Little Monitor, manufactured for only
+a few years, was based on the patents of G.L. Du Laney, July 3, 1866,
+and May 2, 1871. It was a two-thread, chainstitch machine powered only
+by a foot treadle. By simple adjustment, the machine could also make the
+cablestitch and the lockstitch. (Smithsonian photo 48221-C.)</p>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_81" id="fig_81"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i168.png" width="300" height="309" alt="Figure 81." title="Figure 81." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 81.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Eureka sewing machine</span>, 1859. An example of
+the many short-lived types of which no written record can be found, this
+particular machine was used as a patent model for certain minor
+improvements in 1859. It has the name &ldquo;Eureka&rdquo; painted on the top and
+the following inscription incised on the baster plate: &ldquo;Eureka Shuttle
+S. M. Co. 469 Broadway, N.Y.&rdquo; Although it is a shuttle machine, it
+carries no patent dates and was not included in the Howe royalty
+records. Neither is it listed in the obsolescence list published in
+1881. The company probably could not pay its royalty fees and was forced
+out of business almost immediately. If this machine had not been used as
+a patent model, no record of the company&rsquo;s existence might remain. It
+should be noted that as in most shuttle machines the head was meant to
+be set into a treadle-powered table. Since most tables are very similar,
+they are not required for identification. (Smithsonian photo 48328-C.)</p>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_82" id="fig_82"></a>
+<img src="images/i169.png" width="300" height="275" alt="Figure 82." title="Figure 82." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 82.&mdash;<span class="smcap">M. Finkle sewing machine</span>, 1857. The M. Finkle
+machines were manufactured in 1856 and 1857. Sometime before or about
+1859, the inventor, Milton Finkle, formed a partnership and the machines
+were subsequently called M. Finkle &amp; Lyon and later simply Finkle &amp;
+Lyon. In 1859 the machine was awarded a silver medal by the American
+Institute for producing superior manufacturing and family lockstitch
+sewing machines. It also won a silver medal in Boston in 1860 at the
+Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association Exhibition. Although the
+name of the machine was changed to Victor in 1867, the company name
+remained Finkle &amp; Lyon until about 1872 when it was changed to Victor
+also. Victor machines were manufactured until about 1890.</p>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">Machines can be dated by their serial number approximately as follows:</p>
+
+<table summary="Serial Numbers and Dates of M. Finkle sewing machines">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-200</td><td>1856</td></tr>
+<tr><td>201-450</td><td>1857</td></tr>
+<tr><td>451-700</td><td>1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td>701-950</td><td>1859</td></tr>
+<tr><td>951-1500</td><td>1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1501-3000</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>3001-5000</td><td>1862</td></tr>
+<tr><td>5001-7000</td><td>1863</td></tr>
+<tr><td>7001-9000</td><td>1864</td></tr>
+<tr><td>9001-11000</td><td>1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>11001-13000</td><td>1866</td></tr>
+<tr><td>13001-15490</td><td>1867</td></tr>
+<tr><td>15491-17490</td><td>1868</td></tr>
+<tr><td>17491-18830</td><td>1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td>18831-21250</td><td>1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>21251-28890</td><td>1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td>28891-40790</td><td>1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td>40791-48240</td><td>1873</td></tr>
+<tr><td>48241-53530</td><td>1874</td></tr>
+<tr><td>53531-59635</td><td>1875</td></tr>
+<tr><td>59636-65385</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>No estimates are available for the years 1877 to 1890. (Smithsonian
+photo 48216-A.)</p>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_83" id="fig_83"></a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>
+
+<img src="images/i170.png" width="600" height="744" alt="Figure 83." title="Figure 83." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>Figure 83.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Florence sewing machine.</span> The Florence machine
+was based on the patents of Leander W. Langdon, whose first patent was
+obtained in 1855. Langdon sewing machines were manufactured by the
+inventor for a few years. It was his patent of March 20, 1860, that was
+the immediate forerunner of the Florence machine, whose name was derived
+from the city of manufacture, Florence, Massachusetts. The Howe royalty
+records of 1860 listed the Florence Sewing Machine Co. as one that took
+out a license that year. Langdon&rsquo;s patent of July 14, 1863, was
+incorporated into the machines manufactured after that date; however,
+the date is always incorrectly stamped &ldquo;July 18, 1863.&rdquo; In 1865, the
+machine won a silver medal at the Tenth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association.</p>
+
+<p class="caption3">Over 100,000 Florence machines were manufactured by 1870. About 1880 the
+company changed the name of the machine to Crown. Improvements led to
+the name New Crown by 1885. About this time the right to use the name
+Florence for a sewing machine was purchased by a midwestern firm for an
+entirely different machine. In 1885 the Florence company began to
+manufacture lamp stoves and heating stoves and shortly thereafter they
+discontinued the manufacture of sewing machines.</p>
+
+<p class="caption3">Using the serial numbers, Florence machines can be dated approximately
+as follows:</p>
+
+<table border="0" summary="Serial Numbers and Dates of Florence sewing machines">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-500</td><td>1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>501-2000</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2001-8000</td><td>1862</td></tr>
+<tr><td>8001-20000</td><td>1863</td></tr>
+<tr><td>20001-35000</td><td>1864</td></tr>
+<tr><td>35001-50000</td><td>1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>50001-60000</td><td>1866</td></tr>
+<tr><td>60001-70534</td><td>1867</td></tr>
+<tr><td>70535-82534</td><td>1868</td></tr>
+<tr><td>82535-96195</td><td>1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td>96196-113855</td><td>1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>113856-129802</td><td>1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td>129803-145592</td><td>1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td>145593-154555</td><td>1873</td></tr>
+<tr><td>154556-160072</td><td>1874</td></tr>
+<tr><td>160073-164964</td><td>1875</td></tr>
+<tr><td>164965-167942</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="caption3">No record of the number of machines produced each year between 1877 and
+1885 is available.</p>
+
+<p class="caption3">The machine shown here, serial number 49131, was manufactured in 1865.
+It is stamped with the following patent dates: &ldquo;Oct. 30, 1855, Mar. 20,
+1860, Jan. 22, 1861, and July 18, 1863&rdquo; and the Wilson patent date &ldquo;Nov.
+12, 1850.&rdquo; The machines from 1860-1863 are marked with the early Langdon
+patents, excluding the 1863 one, and they have the additional patent
+dates of Howe and others: &ldquo;Sept. 10, 1846, Nov. 12, 1850, Aug. 12, 1851,
+May 30, 1854, Dec. 19, 1854, Nov. 4, 1856.&rdquo; (Smithsonian photo
+45572-A.)</p>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_84" id="fig_84"></a>
+<img src="images/i172.png" width="300" height="261" alt="Figure 84." title="Figure 84." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 84.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Globe sewing machine.</span> J. G. Folsom received
+two design patents in 1864, one on March 1 for a spool holder and one on
+May 17 for the basic style of the machine. Also in the same year, he was
+awarded a mechanical patent for an adjustment in the lower looper that
+would accommodate a change in needle size. Using these patents, he
+manufactured a single-thread, chainstitch machine, the Globe. Folsom
+also exhibited his machines at the Tenth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association in 1865. The Globe attracted particular
+attention and was awarded a silver medal.</p>
+
+<p>In 1866 Folsom devised a new treadle attachment for hand-operated
+machines; the invention was featured in <i>Scientific American</i>, volume
+14, number 17, with a Globe machine. Folsom again exhibited at the
+Massachusetts Mechanics exhibition in 1869. In addition to an improved
+single-thread Globe, he also showed a double-thread, elastic-stitch
+(double chainstitch) machine for which he received a silver medal.</p>
+
+<p>Folsom machines were manufactured until 1871; 280 machines were
+manufactured in that year.</p>
+
+<p>The Globe sewing machine illustrated is stamped &ldquo;J. G. Folsom, Maker,
+Winchendon, Mass. Patented April 28, 1863 [Ketchum&rsquo;s patent], Mar. 1,
+1864. May 17, 1864.&rdquo; The machine was manufactured before November 1864
+or it would include the patent for the lower loop adjustment.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-H.)</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Note:</span> At least five sewing machines, those in figures 84 through 89, are
+similar enough in appearance to cause some confusion, because their
+basic design stems from a short pillar.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_85" id="fig_85"></a>
+<img src="images/i173.png" width="300" height="505" alt="Figure 85." title="Figure 85." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 85.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Globe sewing machine</span> with treadle attachment
+as illustrated in <i>Scientific American</i>, April 21, 1866. (Smithsonian
+photo 48221-A.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_86" id="fig_86"></a>
+<img src="images/i174.png" width="300" height="223" alt="Figure 86." title="Figure 86." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 86.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Empire sewing machine</span>, late 1860s. Although
+an Empire Sewing Machine Co. existed in New York in the 1860s (the
+predecessor of the Remington-Empire Co.), it is not known whether this
+machine was manufactured by that same company, which was primarily
+concerned with producing shuttle machines. This chainstitch machine is
+marked &ldquo;Empire Co., Patented April 23, 1863,&rdquo; the date referring again
+to Ketchum&rsquo;s patent. It is very similar to Folsom&rsquo;s Globe, except that
+it has claw feet rather than a closed base; the painted designs on the
+base of both are almost identical to those on the Monitor. Its spool
+holder, mounted in reverse, is a crude imitation of the Folsom patent.
+The Empire machines were probably manufactured about the same time as
+the Wilson machine. (<i>Photo courtesy of The Henry Ford Museum and
+Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan.</i>)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_87" id="fig_87"></a>
+<img src="images/i175.png" width="300" height="278" alt="Figure 87." title="Figure 87." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 87.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Atwater sewing machine</span>, 1858. Atwater
+machines, based on the patent of B. Atwater, issued May 5, 1857, were
+manufactured from 1857 to about 1860. The machine illustrated, which is
+designed to be operated by a hand-turned wheel, has an upper forked dog
+feed, and its horizontally supported spool is directly over the
+stitching area. Like the others, it has a striated pillar and claw feet.
+The manufacturer is unknown. (Smithsonian photo P63200.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_88" id="fig_88"></a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i176.png" width="300" height="211" alt="Figure 88." title="Figure 88." /></div><p class="caption3">Figure 88.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Monitor sewing machine</span>, 1860-1866. The
+Monitor machines of this style were not marked by their manufacturers,
+Shaw &amp; Clark of Biddeford, Maine. Later the company was forced by the
+&ldquo;Combination&rdquo; to pay a royalty, so it changed the style and began
+marking its machines with the company name and patent dates (see fig.
+119 for copy of seal). The Monitor, which employed the conventional
+vertical spindle to hold the spool of thread, had a top feed in the form
+of a walking presser. Its striated pillar was similar to that of the
+Atwater machine, and both featured the same claw feet and urn-like top.
+Unlike the Atwater, however, the Monitor had a double drive from the
+hand-turned wheel, which was grooved for operation with belt and
+treadle. (Smithsonian photo 33458.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_89" id="fig_89"></a>
+<img src="images/i177.png" width="400" height="265" alt="Figure 89." title="Figure 89." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 89.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wilson sewing machine</span>, late 1860s to early
+1870s. In addition to the Buckeye (see fig. 77), W. G. Wilson
+manufactured several other styles of sewing machines. This one, a
+combination of the varying styles of the earlier pillar machine has even
+duplicated the general style of the spool holder patented by Folsom. The
+pillar is not striated, but the machine does repeat the claw feet of the
+Atwater and Monitor machines. Wilson machines are usually marked &ldquo;Wilson
+Sewing Mach. Manuf&rsquo;g Co. Cleveland, Ohio, Ketchum&rsquo;s Patent April 28,
+1863.&rdquo; The latter name and/or patent date are found on many of the
+machines of this general construction. The patent is that issued to
+Stephen C. Ketchum for his method of converting rotary motion into
+reciprocal motion. (<i>Photo courtesy of The Henry Ford Museum and
+Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan.</i>)</p>
+
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_90" id="fig_90"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i178.png" width="300" height="253" alt="Figure 90." title="Figure 90." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 90.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Grant Brothers sewing machine</span>, 1867. This
+machine was one of several styles that utilized Raymond&rsquo;s 1861 patented
+chainstitch method. This machine, however, used an under feed rather
+than a top feed.</p>
+
+<p>Neither a name nor a date appears on the machine. In the June 25, 1907,
+issue of the <i>Sewing Machine Times</i> it was called the Common Sense
+machine, but detailed research has turned up no evidence to substantiate
+this name. However, a dated brochure advertising the Grant Brothers
+machine and showing a model identical to that illustrated in the <i>Sewing
+Machine Times</i> has been found. The brochure states that the machine made
+an elastic lockstitch; this was not a true lockstitch, however, but was
+in fact a simple chainstitch.</p>
+
+<p>Grant Brothers sold their machine, which had silver-plated mountings,
+for $18; the price included hemmer, Barnum&rsquo;s self-sewer, oilcan,
+screwdriver, clamp, gauge, and four silver needles. An additional charge
+of $12 was made for a table and treadle. Compared to other chainstitch
+machines the price was high, and the company was short-lived.
+(Smithsonian photo 60794-E.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_91" id="fig_91"></a>
+<img src="images/i179.png" width="300" height="259" alt="Figure 91." title="Figure 91." />
+</div><p class="caption3">Figure 91.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Greenman and True sewing machine.</span> This
+lockstitch machine based on S. H. Roper&rsquo;s patent of 1857 was
+manufactured at Norwich, Connecticut, from 1859 to 1861 by Cyrus B.
+True, the inventor, and Jared F. Greenman, True&rsquo;s financial partner.
+Licensed by the &ldquo;Combination&rdquo; and carrying the Howe patent date, the
+machine had obvious merit: it was strong, well made&mdash;a good family
+machine. Exhibited at the Ninth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association in September 1860, it received a bronze
+medal. (At this time the company was listed as Morse and True&mdash;the
+inventor had obviously taken on a second financial backer.)
+Unfortunately, the best market for the machine lay in the South, and the
+outbreak of the Civil War made collections impossible. This greatly
+retarded business and finally drove the firm into bankruptcy. In all, it
+is doubtful that more than one thousand machines were produced in the
+three years of manufacture.</p>
+
+<p>The machine illustrated is marked &ldquo;Greenman and True&rdquo; and bears the
+serial number 402; it was probably manufactured early in 1860.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-N.)</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_92" id="fig_92"></a>
+<img src="images/i180.jpg" width="600" height="677" alt="Figure 92." title="Figure 92." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 92.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Grover and Baker sewing machine.</span> The Grover
+and Baker machine was one of the more popular machines from the 1850s
+until the early 1870s. The company produced iron-frame machines, fine
+cabinet models, and portables (figs. 35 and 36). Their machines may be
+dated by serial number approximately as follows:</p>
+
+<table summary="Serial Numbers and Dates of Baker sewing machines">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-500</td><td>1851</td></tr>
+<tr><td>501-1000</td><td>1852</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1001-1658</td><td>1853</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1659-3893</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td>3894-5038</td><td>1855</td></tr>
+<tr><td>5039-7000</td><td>1856</td></tr>
+<tr><td>7001-10681</td><td>1857</td></tr>
+<tr><td>10682-15752</td><td>1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td>15753-26033</td><td>1859</td></tr>
+<tr><td>26034-44869</td><td>1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>44870-63705</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>63706-82641</td><td>1862</td></tr>
+<tr><td>82642-101477</td><td>1863</td></tr>
+<tr><td>101478-120313</td><td>1864</td></tr>
+<tr><td>120314-139148</td><td>1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>139149-157886</td><td>1866</td></tr>
+<tr><td>157887-190886</td><td>1867</td></tr>
+<tr><td>190887-225886</td><td>1868</td></tr>
+<tr><td>225887-261004</td><td>1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td>261005-338407</td><td>1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>338408-389246</td><td>1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td>389247-441257</td><td>1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td>441258-477437</td><td>1873</td></tr>
+<tr><td>477438-497438</td><td>1874</td></tr>
+<tr><td>497439-512439</td><td>1875</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>(Smithsonian photo 45513-B, an engraving of a Grover and Baker sewing
+machine from an advertising brochure of about 1870.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_93" id="fig_93"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i181.png" width="400" height="293" alt="Figure 93." title="Figure 93." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 93.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Hancock sewing machine</span>, 1867. One of the many
+inventors who turned his talents to inventing and producing a
+mechanically simple and cheaper machine was Henry J. Hancock. His 1867
+machine is only about six inches wide; it uses a tambour-type needle,
+pulling a loop of thread from below the stitching surface. (Smithsonian
+photo P63197.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_94" id="fig_94"></a>
+<img src="images/i182.png" width="300" height="261" alt="Figure 94." title="Figure 94." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 94.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Hancock sewing machine</span>, 1868. Hancock in 1868
+received both a design patent and a mechanical patent now using the
+eye-pointed needle and a hook to form the chainstitch. The design was an
+open framework circle with a mirror mounted in front of the table clamp.
+The purpose of the designated &ldquo;looking glass&rdquo; was decorative only. The
+Hancock machines were only manufactured for a few years. They measure
+10-1/2 inches in width, slightly larger than the earlier machine.
+(Smithsonian photo 48328-M.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_95" id="fig_95"></a>
+<img src="images/i183.png" width="400" height="283" alt="Figure 95." title="Figure 95." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 95.&mdash;<span class="smcap">[A.C.] Herron&rsquo;s patent sewing machine</span>, 1858.
+The manufacturer of this machine is not known, but the machine was based
+on the patent of Abial C. Herron issued August 4, 1857. All the machines
+carry a small heart-shaped plate just above the needle descent bearing
+the patentee&rsquo;s name and the patent date. The patent covered an
+improvement in the method of making the chainstitch. The machines were
+provided with a hand crank, but were also meant to be operated by a belt
+and treadle. No records of the extent of manufacture of this machine
+have been found. This machine head measures 14 inches in width, about
+standard size. (Smithsonian photo 48329-J.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_96" id="fig_96"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i184.png" width="450" height="315" alt="Figure 96." title="Figure 96." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 96.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A. B. Howe sewing machine</span> of about 1860.
+(Smithsonian photo 45525-C.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<p>Figures 96, 97, and 98.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Howe machines.</span> It is difficult for many to
+believe that the stamped legend &ldquo;Elias Howe patent, Sept. 10, 1846&rdquo; does
+not certify that a machine is an original Howe. Although Elias Howe was
+granted a patent for the lockstitch machine in 1846, he did not
+establish a sewing-machine factory for about twenty years. Early in the
+1850s and later through the &ldquo;Combination,&rdquo; however, he licensed others
+to make machines using his patent. These machines bore that patent date
+for which a royalty was being paid.</p>
+
+<p>Among his early licensees was his elder brother Amasa who organized the
+Howe Sewing Machine Co. in 1854. The Amasa Howe machines were very good
+ones, and in 1862 Amasa won the prize medal at the London International
+Exhibition. This immensely increased the popularity of the machine and
+Elias offered to join Amasa by building a large factory at Bridgeport,
+Connecticut, to fill the increasing demand for more machines. The
+machines produced at Bridgeport, however, although imitating the Amasa
+Howe machines, proved inferior in quality. Amasa found that, rather than
+helping his business reputation, his brother&rsquo;s efforts were hurting him,
+and he severed business relations with Elias.</p>
+
+<p>Because of their brief association, the 1862 prize medal awarded to A.
+B. Howe was sometimes credited to Elias. The latter did receive awards
+for his patent, but never for his manufactured machines. When the two
+brothers dissolved their joint venture, Elias attempted to call his new
+company the Howe Sewing Machine Co., but Amasa&rsquo;s claim that this name
+had been his exclusive property for many years was upheld by the courts.
+Elias then omitted the word &ldquo;Sewing&rdquo; and called his company simply the
+Howe Machine Co.</p>
+
+<p>After Elias died in 1867, the company was run by his sons-in-law, the
+Stockwell brothers. To distinguish their machines from those of A. B.
+Howe, they marked each machine with a brass medallion picturing the head
+and flowing locks of Elias Howe. They also continued to advertise their
+machine as the &ldquo;original&rdquo; Howe. In about 1873, B. P. Howe, Amasa&rsquo;s son,
+sold the Howe Sewing Machine Co. to the Stockwell brothers, who
+continued to manufacture Howe machines until 1886.</p>
+
+<p>The machines of the A. B. Howe Sewing Machine Co. may be dated by serial
+number approximately as follows:</p>
+
+<table summary="Serial Numbers and Dates of A. B. Howe sewing machines">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-60</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td>61-113</td><td>1855</td></tr>
+<tr><td>114-166</td><td>1856</td></tr>
+<tr><td>167-299</td><td>1857</td></tr>
+<tr><td>300-478</td><td>1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td>479-1399</td><td>1859</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>No figures are available for 1860-1870, but 20,051 machines were
+manufactured in 1871.</p>
+
+<p>The machines of the [Elias] Howe Machine Co. are not believed to have
+begun with serial number 1, and no figures are available for 1865-1867.
+After that, the machines may be dated by serial number approximately as
+follows:</p>
+
+<table summary="Serial Numbers and Dates of [Elias] Howe sewing machines">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>11,000-46,000</td><td>1868</td></tr>
+<tr><td>46,001-91,843</td><td>1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td>91,844-167,000</td><td>1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>167,001-301,010</td><td>1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td>301,011-446,010</td><td>1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td>446,011-536,010</td><td>1873</td></tr>
+<tr><td>536,011-571,010</td><td>1874</td></tr>
+<tr><td>571,011-596,010</td><td>1875</td></tr>
+<tr><td>596,011-705,304</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>No figures are available for 1877-1886.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_97" id="fig_97"></a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i187.jpg" width="600" height="892" alt="Figure 97." title="Figure 97." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 97.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Advertising brochure</span> distributed by E. Howe
+during the brothers&rsquo; brief partnership; the machines are basically A. B.
+Howe machines, 1863. (Smithsonian photo 49373-A.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_98" id="fig_98"></a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i188.png" width="600" height="787" alt="Figure 98." title="Figure 98." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 98.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Howe (Stockwell brothers) machine</span>, 1870.
+(Smithsonian photo 45572-E.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>
+<a name="fig_99" id="fig_99"></a>
+<img src="images/i189.png" width="600" height="405" alt="Figure 99." title="Figure 99." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 99.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Patent Model Of Christopher Hodgkins</span>,
+November 2, 1852, assigned to Nehemiah Hunt. (Smithsonian photo 34551.)</p>
+
+<p>Figures 99, 100, and 101.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The N. Hunt</span> (later, in 1856, Hunt &amp; Webster
+and finally in 1858 Ladd and Webster) sewing machine was based on the
+patents of Christopher Hodgkins, November 2, 1852, and May 9, 1854, both
+of which were assigned to Nehemiah Hunt. First manufactured in 1853, the
+machine, which closely resembled the Hodgkins&rsquo; patent, won a silver
+medal at the exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics
+Association that same year.</p>
+
+<p>In 1856 Hunt took a partner, and the company became Hunt &amp; Webster. An
+interesting account of this company appeared as a feature article in
+<i>Ballou&rsquo;s Pictorial</i>, July 5, 1856, where it was reported that &ldquo;the
+North American Shoe Company have over fifty of the latest improved
+machines, represented in these drawings [fig. 31], now running....&rdquo; The
+article also estimated that a 55-million dollar increase in shoe
+manufacturing in Massachusetts in 1855 was due to the sewing machine. In
+1856 the Hunt &amp; Webster machine again won a silver medal at the
+exhibition. Very late in 1858 the company became Ladd, Webster, &amp; Co.
+and continued to manufacture both family and manufacturing sewing
+machines until the mid-1860s.</p>
+
+<p>The approximate date of manufacture can be determined by serial number:</p>
+
+<table summary="Serial Numbers and Dates of Hunt &amp; Webster sewing machines">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-100</td><td>1853</td></tr>
+<tr><td>101-368</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td>369-442</td><td>1855</td></tr>
+<tr><td>443-622</td><td>1856</td></tr>
+<tr><td>623-1075</td><td>1857</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1076-1565</td><td>1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1566-3353</td><td>1859</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>No figures are available for the 1860s.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_100" id="fig_100"></a>
+<img src="images/i190a.png" width="300" height="259" alt="Figure 100." title="Figure 100." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 100.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Right: Hunt &amp; Webster</span> sewing machine of
+about 1855, serial number 414. (Smithsonian photo 48216-V.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_101" id="fig_101"></a>
+<img src="images/i190b.png" width="400" height="501" alt="Figure 101." title="Figure 101." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 101.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ladd, Webster &amp; Co.</span> sewing machine of about
+1858, Boston, serial number 1497. (Smithsonian photo 46953.)</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p>
+<p style="clear:both;">&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_102" id="fig_102"></a>
+<img src="images/i191.png" width="300" height="257" alt="Figure 102." title="Figure 102." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 102.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Improved Common Sense</span> sewing machine of
+about 1870. This machine is so very similar to the New England machines
+in its feed, threading, looping mechanism, and in its general design,
+that it is sometimes mistaken for the earlier New England machines (see
+figs. 112 and 113).</p>
+
+<p>Dating from the early 1870s, the Improved Common Sense machine is about
+10 inches in width, two inches larger than the New England machine. The
+spool holder is similar to Folsom&rsquo;s patented design, but is less
+refined. A page from an advertising brochure of the period verifies the
+name of the machine, but does not identify the manufacturer.</p>
+
+<p>There are no patent dates or identifying names or numbers on the machine
+illustrated. Although the Empire Co. also produced a machine of this
+style, their models are marked with their name and with Ketchum&rsquo;s patent
+date, April 23, 1863. Of the several styles of machine using the Raymond
+looper, this type seems to account for the largest volume manufactured,
+as evidenced by the proportionately higher number of examples still
+extant. (Smithsonian photo 48328-E.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_103" id="fig_103"></a>
+<img src="images/i192.png" width="600" height="410" alt="Figure 103." title="Figure 103." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 103.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Johnson sewing machine</span>, 1857. Another of the
+all-but-forgotten manufacturers of the 1850s was Emery, Houghton &amp; Co.,
+who constructed the A.F. Johnson machines. Examination of existing
+machines indicates that they were manufactured in 1856 and 1857, and
+possibly a little longer. This one from 1857 bears the serial number
+624, so we know that several hundred were manufactured. The head is
+ornately attractive, slightly reminiscent of Wheeler &amp; Wilson models,
+and of standard size. (Smithsonian photo 48329-B.)</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_104" id="fig_104"></a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i193.png" width="600" height="514" alt="Figure 104." title="Figure 104." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 104.&mdash;<span class="smcap">&ldquo;Lady&rdquo; sewing machine</span> of about 1859. The
+contemporary name of this machine is unknown. The unusual design of the
+head, or main support, is based in part on the design patent, number
+216, of Isaac F. Baker, issued April 10, 1849, for a &ldquo;new and useful
+design[,] for ornamenting furniture[,] called Cora Munro&rdquo; who was a
+character in James Fenimore Cooper&rsquo;s <i>Last of the Mohicans</i>. The design
+shows a female figure wearing a riding dress and hat that is ornamented
+with a plume and a bow. Her right hand holds a riding stick and the
+left, her skirt. Trunks of trees and foliage complete the Baker design,
+which is known to have been used for girandoles of the period. A
+companion design was also patented by Baker, number 215, which is in the
+form of a man in military costume and is named &ldquo;Major Heyward,&rdquo; for
+another character in <i>Last of the Mohicans</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The sewing machines based on the &ldquo;Cora Munro&rdquo; design also use branch
+designs as the overhanging arms. A mother bird sits in the upper branch
+and descends to feed a young bird as the machine is in operation. The
+one illustrated was used as the machine submitted with a request for
+patent by George Hensel of New York City for which patent 24,737 was
+issued on July 12, 1859. Since Hensel&rsquo;s patent application was for an
+improvement in the feed, there was no need for the highly decorative
+head unless such a machine was commercially available. The patent
+specifications merely state that the head is &ldquo;ornamented.&rdquo; Another
+sewing machine of this type was used as the patent model by Sidney
+Parker of Sing Sing, New York, number 24,780, issued on the same date as
+the Hensel patent. Parker&rsquo;s patent also covered an improved feeding
+mechanism. In the patent description, however, the inventor states that
+&ldquo;the general form of the machine is not unlike others now in use.&rdquo; By
+this he might have meant in the design, or possibly in the basic
+structural form. Other than the two machines described, no other
+examples are known to have survived, but &ldquo;Lady&rdquo; or &ldquo;Cora Munro&rdquo; sewing
+machines were manufactured. (Smithsonian photo 45506-D.)</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_105" id="fig_105"></a>
+<img src="images/i194.png" width="450" height="572" alt="Figure 105." title="Figure 105." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 105.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Landfear&rsquo;s Patent Sewing Machine</span> of about
+1857. Another of the many machines that, except for isolated examples,
+have almost completely disappeared from the records is Landfear&rsquo;s
+machine. Fortunately, this manufacturer marked his machine&mdash;where many
+did not&mdash;stamping it: &ldquo;Landfear&rsquo;s patent-Dec<span class="super">r</span> 1856, No. 262, W. H.
+Johnson&rsquo;s Patent Feb. 26th 1856, Manfrd by Parkers, Snow, Brooks &amp; Co.,
+West Meriden, Conn.&rdquo; (There was a Parker sewing machine manufactured by
+the Charles Parker Co. of Meriden, but his machine was a double-thread
+chainstitch machine and was licensed by the &ldquo;Combination.&rdquo; The Landfear
+machine may have been an earlier attempt by a predecessor or closely
+related company.)</p>
+
+<p>The Landfear patent was for a shuttle machine, but it also included a
+mode for regulating stitch length. The name chosen for this machine may
+be incorrect, since the single-thread chainstitch mechanism is primarily
+that of W. H. Johnson, but since the Johnson patent also was used on
+other machines the name &ldquo;Landfear&rdquo; was assigned. The machine was
+probably another attempt to evade royalty payment to the &ldquo;Combination.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The serial number 262 indicates that at least that many machines were
+manufactured, although this model is the only one known to be in
+existence. The support arm of the machine head is iron, cast as a vase
+of flowers and painted in natural colors. The paint on the head is
+original, but the table has been refinished, and the iron legs, which
+had rusted, have been repainted. (Smithsonian photo 48440-G.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_106" id="fig_106"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i195.png" width="600" height="474" alt="Figure 106." title="Figure 106." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 106.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Lathrop sewing machine</span> of about 1873. These
+machines were manufactured by the Lathrop Combination Sewing Machine Co.
+under the patents of Lebbeus W. Lathrop of 1869, 1870, and 1873. The
+machine used two threads, both taken from spools; moreover, it produced
+not only the double chainstitch, but it was constructed to produce also
+a lockstitch and a combined &ldquo;lock and chain stitch.&rdquo; The machine
+illustrated bears the serial number 31 and the patent dates of Grover &amp;
+Baker, and Bachelder among others, in addition to the first two Lathrop
+patent dates. The company lasted only a few years as it is included in
+the 1881 list of manufacturers that had ceased to exist. (Smithsonian
+photo 46953-F.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_107" id="fig_107"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i196.png" width="600" height="434" alt="Figure 107." title="Figure 107." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 107.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Illustration from a brochure</span>, marked in ink:
+&ldquo;The National Portrait Gallery, 1855.&rdquo; Singer Archives. (Smithsonian
+photo 48091-E.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Figures 107 and 108.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Nichols and Leavitt</span> sewing machines. One of
+Elias Howe&rsquo;s earliest licensees was J. B. Nichols. His machine,
+manufactured at first with George Bliss and later alone as J. B. Nichols
+&amp; Co., was called Howe&rsquo;s Improved Patent Sewing Machine. It was,
+however, no more a Howe machine than any of the others produced under
+the Howe patent.</p>
+
+<p>In July 1855 Nichols went into partnership with Rufus Leavitt, and the
+company name changed to Nichols, Leavitt &amp; Co. In 1857 it was changed
+again to Leavitt &amp; Co., and finally in the mid-1860s to Leavitt Sewing
+Machine Co. By the 1870s, it was defunct.</p>
+
+<p>The Nichols-Leavitt machines can be dated by their serial numbers
+approximately as follows:</p>
+
+<table summary="Serial Numbers and Dates of Nichols-Leavitt sewing machines">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td><td><i>Company</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-28</td><td>1853</td><td>Nichols &amp; Bliss</td></tr>
+<tr><td>29-245</td><td>1854</td><td>J. B. Nichols &amp; Co.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>246-397</td><td>1855</td><td>J. B. Nichols &amp; Co.&mdash;Nichols, Leavitt &amp; Co.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>398-632</td><td>1856</td><td>Nichols, Leavitt &amp; Co.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>633-827</td><td>1857</td><td>Leavitt &amp; Co.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>828-902</td><td>1858</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>903-1115</td><td>1859</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1116-1436</td><td>1860</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1437-1757</td><td>1861</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1758-2077</td><td>1862</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2078-2400</td><td>1863</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2401-2900</td><td>1864</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2901-3900</td><td>1865</td><td>Leavitt Sewing Machine Co.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>3901-4900</td><td>1866</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>4901-5951</td><td>1867</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>5952-6951</td><td>1868</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>6952-7722</td><td>1869</td><td align='center'>&rdquo;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>There is no record that the company was in existence after 1869.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_108" id="fig_108"></a>
+<img src="images/i197.png" width="600" height="418" alt="Figure 108." title="Figure 108." /><p class="caption3">Figure 108.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Leavitt sewing machine</span> of about 1868, serial
+number 6907. (Smithsonian photo 48328.)</p></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_109" id="fig_109"></a>
+<img src="images/i198.png" width="600" height="526" alt="Figure 109." title="Figure 109." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 109.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Lester sewing machine</span> of about 1858. The
+Lester machine was first manufactured by J. H. Lester in Brooklyn, New
+York. His machine was based on the patents of William Johnson, John
+Bradshaw and others but not on the patents held by the &ldquo;Combination,&rdquo;
+although he had secured a license. When the Old Dominion Company applied
+for a license from the &ldquo;Combination,&rdquo; Lester learned of this, went to
+Richmond, and arranged to combine his business with theirs. Since the
+Lester machine was the better one, it was agreed to cease the
+manufacture of the Old Dominion machines early in 1860 and in March the
+company name was changed to the Lester Mfg. Co. Late in 1860, George
+Sloat entered the company with his Elliptic machine; the name was
+changed again, this time to Union Sewing Machine Co. The manufacture of
+both sewing machines continued until the outbreak of the Civil War the
+following year, which brought a conversion to arms production. The
+manufacture of Lester machines was never resumed.</p>
+
+<p>The machine illustrated was manufactured by J. H. Lester in Brooklyn; it
+bears the serial number 96. The number of Lester machines manufactured
+from 1858 through 1861 is not known, but it was probably less than
+1,000. (Smithsonian photo P63359.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_110" id="fig_110"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i199.png" width="600" height="647" alt="Figure 110." title="Figure 110." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 110.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ne Plus Ultra</span> of about 1867. Another of the
+interesting hand-turned chainstitch machines of the late 1850s and 1860s
+was patented by O.L. Reynolds. The baster plates and the handle on the
+wheel are missing on this machine, but an interesting shield and
+draped-flag pattern is painted on the base.</p>
+
+<p>Another machine of this type has the following inscription stamped on
+the baster plate: &ldquo;Ne Plus Ultra, Patent Applied For, 174, O.L.
+Reynolds, Patentee &amp; Manufacturer, Dover N.H.&rdquo; Reynold&rsquo;s patent model,
+March 30, 1858, bears the serial number 110, indicating that the machine
+illustrated here&mdash;which bears the serial number 26&mdash;was manufactured
+before the patent was obtained. (Smithsonian photo 48216-F.)</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_111" id="fig_111"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i200.png" width="600" height="494" alt="Figure 111." title="Figure 111." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 111.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Nettleton &amp; Raymond sewing machine.</span> One of
+the most ornate of the early, small, hand-turned sewing machines was
+patented and manufactured by Willford H. Nettleton and Charles Raymond
+whose first patent was received on April 14, 1857. The patent model,
+believed to be a commercial machine, is beautifully silver-plated.
+Whether this was a special one-of-a-kind model, or whether the inventors
+tried to make a commercial success of a silver-plated machine is not
+known. The machine made a two-thread chainstitch, taking both threads
+from commercial spools. By October 1857, the inventors had received
+their second patent. This time the machine was brass and gilt&mdash;brighter,
+but less expensive. At the same time, Nettleton &amp; Raymond began
+manufacturing sewing-shears machines under the patent of J. E.
+Hendricks.</p>
+
+<p>By the latter half of 1858, Nettleton &amp; Raymond had moved from Bristol,
+Connecticut, to Brattleboro, Vermont. The patented improvement of the
+two-thread chainstitch machine received that year was in the name of
+&ldquo;Raymond, assignor to Nettleton,&rdquo; although the machines of this type
+bear neither name nor patent date. No record of the price for which they
+were sold has been found, but it would be fair to estimate that it was
+probably about $25. This style of machine was discontinued when the
+manufacture of the simpler, more profitable New England model began, a
+machine that Raymond had initiated just before the partners left
+Bristol. (Smithsonian photo 45505-E.)</p></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width:400px;"><a name="fig_112" id="fig_112"></a>
+<img src="images/i201a.png" width="300" height="337" alt="Figure 112." title="Figure 112." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 112.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Raymond patent model</span>, March 9, 1858.
+(Smithsonian photo 32009-O.)</p>
+
+<a name="fig_113" id="fig_113"></a>
+<img src="images/i201b.png" width="400" height="398" alt="Figure 113." title="Figure 113." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 113.&mdash;<span class="smcap">New England</span> sewing machine of about 1860,
+manufactured by Nettleton &amp; Raymond; it bears the Raymond patent date of
+March 9, 1858. (Smithsonian photo 45505-G.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Figures 112 and 113.&mdash;<span class="smcap">New England sewing machines.</span> The
+small, hand-turned, sewing machines some of which were called Common
+Sense, were manufactured by at least three companies and possibly more.
+The earliest ones were those made by Nettleton &amp; Raymond based on
+Charles Raymond&rsquo;s patent of March 9, 1858, which featured a hinged
+presser foot acting as the top feed. On July 30, 1861, Raymond received
+a patent for an improved looper; this date is found on all machines
+later manufactured by the inventor.</p>
+
+<p>In 1858 Nettleton and Raymond had moved from Bristol, Connecticut, to
+Brattleboro, Vermont. Also in Brattleboro at this time were Thomas H.
+White and Samuel Barker, who were manufacturing a small machine called
+the Brattleboro. White left Vermont in 1862 and went to Massachusetts.
+There, in partnership with William Grout, he also began to manufacture
+New England machines; these were basically the same as the Raymond
+machines. After a short time, Grout left the partnership with White and
+moved to Winchendon, there continuing to make New England machines for
+approximately one more year. In 1865, J. G. Folsom of Winchendon
+exhibited a New England machine at the Tenth Exhibition of the
+Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association along with his Globe
+machine. Whether both machines were manufactured by him or whether he
+might have been exhibiting one of Grout&rsquo;s machines is not known.</p>
+
+<p>There is no record that New England machines were manufactured after
+1865. There is a great similarity between these machines and the
+Improved Common Sense sewing machines of the 1870s. It is believed that
+the name &ldquo;Common Sense&rdquo; was given by frugal New Englanders to several of
+the cheaper chainstitch machines of the 1860s.</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width:400px;"><a name="fig_114" id="fig_114"></a>
+<img src="images/i202a.png" width="400" height="321" alt="Figure 114." title="Figure 114." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 114.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Pratt&rsquo;s second patent model</span>, March 3, 1857,
+probably a commercial machine. (Smithsonian photo 48328-H.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Figures 114 and 115.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Pratt&rsquo;s patent</span> and the Ladies
+Companion sewing machine. The machines manufactured under the patents of
+Samuel F. Pratt were first sold in 1857 and 1858 as Pratt&rsquo;s patent.
+These machines carry the Pratt name and the patent dates &ldquo;Feb. 3, 1857
+Mar. 3;&rdquo; the latter is an 1857 patent date also. In 1859 the Pratt
+machine was called the Ladies Companion and was so marked. It was also
+marked with the 1857 patent dates, the date February 16, 1858, and a
+serial number, and was stamped &ldquo;Boston, Mass.&rdquo; Manufacture was
+discontinued after a few years.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width:300px;"><a name="fig_115" id="fig_115"></a>
+<img src="images/i202b.png" width="300" height="539" alt="Figure 115." title="Figure 115." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 115.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ladies Companion</span>, 1859. (<i>Photo courtesy of
+The Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan.</i>)</p></div>
+
+<p style="clear:both;"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_116" id="fig_116"></a>
+<img src="images/i203.png" width="600" height="772" alt="Figure 116." title="Figure 116." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 116.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Quaker City sewing machine.</span> During the first
+decade of sewing-machine manufacture many types of handsome wooden cases
+were developed to house the mechanisms. Although such cases increased
+the total cost, they were greatly admired and were purchased whenever
+family funds permitted. The machine was based on the patents of William
+P. Uhlinger: a mechanical patent for a double chainstitch machine on
+August 17, 1858 (antedated May 8), and a patent for the casing on
+December 28, 1858. The machine head was lowered into the casing as the
+lid was brought forward and closed&mdash;an idea much ahead of its time.</p>
+
+<p>This Quaker City machine, serial number 18, was purchased by Benjamin F.
+Meadows of Lafayette, Alabama, for $150 just prior to the Civil War.
+Relatively few machines of this type were manufactured, and the Quaker
+City Sewing Machine Co. existed for only a few years. Its apparent hope
+for a southern market was short-lived, and it was unable to compete
+either with the companies licensed under the &ldquo;Combination&rdquo; or with those
+producing less expensive machines. (Smithsonian photo 46953-A.)</p></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_117" id="fig_117"></a>
+<img src="images/i204.png" width="600" height="782" alt="Figure 117." title="Figure 117." /><p class="caption3">Figure 117.&mdash;<span class="smcap">From an advertising brochure</span>, marked in ink,
+&ldquo;The National Portrait Gallery, 1855,&rdquo; in the Singer Company&rsquo;s archives.
+The brochure states &ldquo;Howard &amp; Davis, 34 Water Street, Boston,
+Massachusetts Sole Manufacturers of Robinson&rsquo;s Patent Sewing Machine
+with Rope[r]&rsquo;s Improvements.&rdquo; (Smithsonian photo 48091-F.)</p></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_118" id="fig_118"></a>
+<img src="images/i205.png" width="600" height="605" alt="Figure 118." title="Figure 118." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 118.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Sewing machine of about 1856</span> with
+inscription &ldquo;Howard &amp; Davis Makers, Boston, Mass. Robinson &amp; Roper Pat.
+Dec. 10, 1850, Aug. 15, 1854&rdquo;; the drive wheel and the circular
+stitching plate of this machine are missing. (Smithsonian photo
+48440-C.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Figures 117 and 118.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Robinson and Roper</span> sewing machines,
+1855-1856. This is one of the few machines producing a backstitch or
+half backstitch to realize any commercial success. Manufactured a very
+short time by Howard &amp; Davis, it was a short-thread machine, based on
+the Frederick Robinson patent of December 10, 1850, and the Samuel Roper
+patent of August 15, 1854. Roper produced additional improvements for
+which he received a patent on November 4, 1856. In the <i>Scientific
+American</i>, November 1, 1856, the new machine was discussed: &ldquo;Robinson &amp;
+Roper exhibit their new improved sewing machines, which appear to
+operate with great success. Two needles are employed, the points of
+which are furnished with hooks that alternately catch the thread and
+form the stitch. The finest kind of cotton thread or silk can be used.
+The work appears well done. Price $100.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_119" id="fig_119"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i206.png" width="600" height="842" alt="Figure 119." title="Figure 119." /><p class="caption3">Figure 119.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Illustrated page</span> in a Shaw &amp; Clark
+advertising brochure, published in late 1864. (Smithsonian photo
+61321.)</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_120" id="fig_120"></a>
+<img src="images/i207.png" width="450" height="438" alt="Figure 120." title="Figure 120." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 120.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Shaw &amp; Clark sewing machine</span> (Page patent) of
+1867, Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts. (Smithsonian photo 48216-L.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Figures 119 and 120.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Shaw &amp; Clark sewing machines.</span> In
+addition to the early style Monitor sewing machine sold by Shaw &amp; Clark
+without a name or any identifying marks, the company continued to
+manufacture machines after a lawsuit with the &ldquo;Combination&rdquo; forced them
+to take out a license. They manufactured an adapted version of their
+Monitor and an entirely new design patented in 1861. Their machines were
+now marked with the company name and a list of patent dates including
+those of Howe, Wheeler and Wilson, Grover and Baker, and Singer and the
+Batchelder patent, together with their own design patents. In 1867 the
+company moved from Biddeford, Maine, to Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts.
+In the same year, they began manufacturing a machine of the design
+patented by T. C. Page. The company is believed to have become the
+Chicopee Sewing Machine Company which appeared the following year and
+remained in business only a very short time. One Chicopee sewing machine
+is in the Smithsonian collection.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_121" id="fig_121"></a>
+<img src="images/i208.png" width="400" height="320" alt="Figure 121." title="Figure 121." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 121.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Singer</span> &ldquo;Traverse Shuttle Machine&mdash;Letter A.&rdquo;
+(Smithsonian photo 58984.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Figures 121 and 122.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Singer sewing machines.</span> From 1850 to 1858 the
+Singer company produced heavy manufacturing-type sewing machines similar
+to the patent model shown earlier (fig. 28). The first machine for
+family use, Singer&rsquo;s new &ldquo;Family&rdquo; sewing machine (fig. 33) was
+manufactured from 1858-1861. Their second-style family machine was
+called the &ldquo;Traverse Shuttle Machine&mdash;Letter A;&rdquo; it was manufactured
+from 1859 to 1865, when they introduced their third family machine and
+called it the &ldquo;New Family&rdquo; sewing machine. This style machine continued
+until about 1883 when the &ldquo;Improved Family&rdquo; machine appeared. In
+addition to the lockstitch machines, Singer also manufactured
+chainstitch machines, and many highly specialized manufacturing
+machines.</p>
+
+<p>From 1857 through the 1880s, the Singer machines were marked with two
+serial numbers. It is possible that the numbers were related to the
+&ldquo;Combination&rdquo; royalties paid by the Singer company. Until about 1873
+there was a difference of exactly 4,000 in the two numbers, thus one
+machine would be marked 12163 and directly below it would be marked
+16163. From 1873 the last three digits of the two numbers continued to
+be the same but the lower number might be much lower in value than
+either number used in earlier years. The larger number is believed to
+have been a record of total production while the lower number may have
+referred to a machine of a particular style. The Singer company records
+can shed no light on the meaning of the top (or lower of the two) serial
+numbers. Generally, in the earlier machines, the difference in the two
+numbers will not affect the dating of a machine by more than one year.
+Since dating by serial number can only be estimated, the two numbers do
+not add an appreciable variable prior to 1873. Only the larger number,
+however, should be considered in dating machines after 1873.</p>
+
+<table summary="Serial Numbers of Singer Sewing Machines from 1850-1876">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i> <i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-100</td><td>1850</td></tr>
+<tr><td>101-900</td><td>1851</td></tr>
+<tr><td>901-1711</td><td>1852</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1712-2521</td><td>1853</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2522-3400</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td>3401-4283</td><td>1855</td></tr>
+<tr><td>4284-6847</td><td>1856</td></tr>
+<tr><td>6848-10477</td><td>1857</td></tr>
+<tr><td>10478-14071</td><td>1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td>14072-25024</td><td>1859</td></tr>
+<tr><td>25025-43000</td><td>1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>43001-61000</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>61001-79396</td><td>1862</td></tr>
+<tr><td>79397-99426</td><td>1863</td></tr>
+<tr><td>99427-123058</td><td>1864</td></tr>
+<tr><td>123059-149399</td><td>1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>149400-180360</td><td>1866</td></tr>
+<tr><td>180361-223414</td><td>1867</td></tr>
+<tr><td>223415-283044</td><td>1868</td></tr>
+<tr><td>283045-369826</td><td>1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td>369827-497660</td><td>1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>497661-678921</td><td>1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td>678922-898680</td><td>1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td>898681-1121125</td><td>1873</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1121126-1362805</td><td>1874</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1362806-1612658</td><td>1875</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1612659-1874975</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Since records of annual production from 1877 to the turn of the century
+are not complete, it is difficult to establish yearly approximations.
+Using the machines submitted as patent models, and thus known to have
+been manufactured before the date of deposit, however, has provided us
+with the following date guides. By 1877 there had been 2 million
+machines manufactured, 3 million by 1880, 4 million by 1882, 5 million
+by 1884, 6 million by 1886, 7 million by 1888, 8 million by 1889, 9
+million by 1890, and 10 million by 1891.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_122" id="fig_122"></a>
+<img src="images/i211.png" width="600" height="690" alt="Figure 122." title="Figure 122." /><p class="caption3">Figure 122.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Singer</span> &ldquo;New Family&rdquo; sewing machine.
+(Smithsonian photo 58987.)</p></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_123" id="fig_123"></a>
+<img src="images/i212.png" width="600" height="468" alt="Figure 123." title="Figure 123." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 123.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Standard sewing machine</span> of about 1870. This
+chainstitch machine is believed to have been made by the company that
+later became the Standard Shuttle Sewing Machine Company, when they
+began manufacturing lockstitch machines about 1874. This machine is
+marked with the name, &ldquo;Standard,&rdquo; and with the dates &ldquo;Patented July 14,
+1870, Patented Jan. 22, 1856, Dec. 9, 1856, Dec. 12, 1865.&rdquo; The dates
+refer to the reissue and extended reissue of the Bachelder and the A. B.
+Wilson patents. The number of chainstitch machines of this type that
+were manufactured is not known. (Smithsonian photo 45506-C.)</p></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width:400px;"><a name="fig_124" id="fig_124"></a>
+<img src="images/i213a.png" width="400" height="350" alt="Figure 124." title="Figure 124." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 124.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Taggart &amp; Farr</span> sewing machine, front view.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-P.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Figures 124 and 125.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Taggart &amp; Farr</span> sewing machine, 1860. The Taggart &amp;
+Farr is an almost forgotten machine. It was based on Chester Farr&rsquo;s
+patent of August 9, 1859. The machine, however, was in commercial
+production as early as 1858, the year the patent application was made.
+Using two threads&mdash;both taken directly from the spool&mdash;to form a
+chainstitch, the machine was operated basically by treadle but also by
+hand. The drive wheel is missing on this machine, but it would normally
+appear on the right.</p>
+
+<p>The name and patent date were painted on the end of the machine. This
+was true of many other machines of this period, which is why so many go
+unidentified once the paint has become worn. Several thousand Taggart &amp;
+Farr machines were manufactured, but the company is believed to have had
+a short life, for it was among those that had disappeared by 1881.</p>
+
+<div class="figright"><a name="fig_125" id="fig_125"></a>
+<img src="images/i213b.png" width="300" height="466" alt="Figure 125." title="Figure 125." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 125.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Taggart &amp; Farr</span> sewing machine, end view.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-M.)</p></div>
+<p style="clear:both;"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_126" id="fig_126"></a>
+<img src="images/i214.png" width="600" height="437" alt="Figure 126." title="Figure 126." />
+<p class="caption3">Figure 126.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Watson sewing machine, 1856</span>, illustrated in
+Scientific American, December 13, 1856. The earliest Watson machines
+were two-thread lockstitch machines, as described in the <i>Scientific
+American</i>, August 10, 1850. Although the magazine reported that the
+inventor had applied for a patent, the earliest lockstitch patent issued
+to William C. Watson was on March 11, 1856. A few of his machines were
+made in 1850, the article continued, &ldquo;several of these machines are
+nearly finished ... persons desirous of seeing them can be gratified by
+calling upon Messrs. Jones &amp; Lee.&rdquo; A Watson machine was exhibited by
+Jones &amp; Lee at the Sixth Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association held in Boston in September 1850.</p>
+
+<p>In 1853 a Watson machine was exhibited at the New York Industry of All
+Nations Exhibition, but this was a single-looping machine; Watson
+received a patent for this single-thread machine on November 25, 1856.</p>
+
+<p>In the December 13, 1856, issue of <i>Scientific American</i> a machine
+called Watson&rsquo;s &ldquo;Family&rdquo; sewing machine was illustrated and described.
+It was a small machine (only 8 by 5 inches) manufactured by Watson &amp;
+Wooster and selling for $10. References to the Watson single-thread
+machine occur as late as 1860, but no examples are known to have
+survived. (Smithsonian photo 48221-B.)</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_127" id="fig_127"></a>
+<img src="images/i215.png" width="450" height="697" alt="Figure 127." title="Figure 127." /></div><p class="caption3">Figure 127.&mdash;<span class="smcap">West &amp; Willson sewing machine</span> of about 1859.
+The West &amp; Willson machine, manufactured under the patent of H. B. West
+and H. F. Willson, enjoyed a very brief span of popularity. The patent
+covered the peculiar method of operating a spring-looper in combination
+with an eye-pointed needle to form a single chainstitch, but whether
+machines of this single-thread variety were manufactured is unknown. The
+machine illustrated here is a two-thread machine of basically the same
+description. It stitches from left to right and bears serial number 1544
+and the inscription &ldquo;West &amp; Willson Co. patented June 29, 1858.&rdquo;
+(Smithsonian photo 49456-A.)</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_128" id="fig_128"></a>
+<img src="images/i216.png" width="600" height="590" alt="Figure 128." title="Figure 128." /><p class="caption3">Figure 128.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wheeler &amp; Wilson sewing machine</span> of about
+1872. Serial number 670974. (Smithsonian photo P63149-A.)</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_129" id="fig_129"></a>
+<img src="images/i217.png" width="600" height="437" alt="Figure 129." title="Figure 129." /><p class="caption3">Figure 129.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wheeler and Wilson No. 8</span> sewing machine of
+about 1876. (Smithsonian photo 17663-C.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Figures 128 and 129.&mdash;Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines.
+The Wheeler and Wilson company was the largest manufacturer of sewing
+machines in the 1850s and the 1860s.</p>
+
+<p>It began in 1851 as A. B. Wilson; from 1852 to 1856 it was the Wheeler,
+Wilson &amp; Co., Watertown, Connecticut; and from 1856 to 1876, it was
+Wheeler &amp; Wilson Mfg. Co., Bridgeport, Connecticut.</p>
+
+<p>The style of the head changed very little during these years (see figs.
+26 and 27). Both a table style with iron legs and a cabinet model were
+made: the head was usually mounted to stitch from left to right. In
+1861, the company introduced the famous glass presser foot, patented on
+March 5 of that year by J. L. Hyde. The presser foot was made of metal
+but shaped like an open <a name="corr_6" id="corr_6"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="A character appears to be missing in the original here.">_</ins> into which was slid a small glass plate, with a
+hole for the needle descent. The glass allowed the seamstress to observe
+the stitching and to produce very close-edge stitching. It remained a
+favorite of many women for years. In 1876, the new No. 8 machine was
+introduced and a new series of serial numbers was initiated. It is,
+therefore, imperative to know that the machine is one of the earlier
+style machines before using the following list of serial numbers to date
+the machines, approximately as follows:</p>
+
+
+<table summary="Wheeler Wilson Sewing Machine Serial Numbers 1851-1876">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-200</td><td>1851</td></tr>
+<tr><td>201-650</td><td>1852</td></tr>
+<tr><td>651-1449</td><td>1853</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1450-2205</td><td>1854</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2206-3376</td><td>1855</td></tr>
+<tr><td>3377-5586</td><td>1856</td></tr>
+<tr><td>5587-10177</td><td>1857</td></tr>
+<tr><td>10178-18155</td><td>1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td>18156-39461</td><td>1859</td></tr>
+<tr><td>39462-64563</td><td>1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>64564-83119</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>83120-111321</td><td>1862</td></tr>
+<tr><td>111322-141099</td><td>1863</td></tr>
+<tr><td>141100-181161</td><td>1864</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a name="corr_7" id="corr_7"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="This range overlaps the previous one.">181161</ins>-220318</td><td>1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>220319-270450</td><td>1866</td></tr>
+<tr><td>270451-308505</td><td>1867</td></tr>
+<tr><td>308506-357856</td><td>1868</td></tr>
+<tr><td>357857-436722</td><td>1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td>436723-519930</td><td>1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>519931-648456</td><td>1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td>648457-822545</td><td>1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td>822546-941735</td><td>1873</td></tr>
+<tr><td>941736-1034563</td><td>1874</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1034564-1318303</td><td>1875</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1138304-1247300</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Records of the second series of serial numbers dating from 1876 are not
+available.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_130" id="fig_130"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i218.png" width="600" height="440" alt="Figure 130." title="Figure 130." /></div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 130.&mdash;<span class="smcap">White Sewing Machine.</span> Although the White
+sewing machines date from 1876, Thomas H. White had been busy in the
+manufacture of sewing machines for many years prior to this. White is
+known to have been associated with Barker in the manufacture of the
+Brattleboro machine and later with Grout in producing one of the several
+New England machines. In 1866 he moved to Cleveland, Ohio, and began
+manufacturing machines for sale under special trade names through
+selling organizations. In 1876, the White Sewing Machine Company was
+formed and machines were sold under the White name.</p>
+
+<p>The machine illustrated is a standard lockstitch machine, which would
+have been set into a sewing-machine table and operated by a treadle. The
+small handle was used to start the wheel, and thus the stitching
+operation, in the forward direction. This machine bears the serial
+number 28241 and the following patents: &ldquo;Mar. 14, 1876, May 2, 1876,
+Oct. 24, 1876, Jan. 16, 1877, Mar. 20, 1877, Mar. 27, 1877,&rdquo; which are
+primarily the patents of D&rsquo;Arcy Porter and George W. Baker.</p>
+
+<p>The machines of the 1870s may be dated approximately as follows:</p>
+
+<table summary="Dates and Serial Numbers of White sewing machines">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-9000</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+<tr><td>9000-27000</td><td>1877</td></tr>
+<tr><td>27001-45000</td><td>1878</td></tr>
+<tr><td>45001-63000</td><td>1879</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>(Smithsonian photo 58986.)</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="fig_131" id="fig_131"></a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i219.png" width="450" height="592" alt="Figure 131." title="Figure 131." />
+</div>
+<p class="caption3">Figure 131.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Willcox And Gibbs sewing machine</span>, serial
+number 296572, of about 1878. From 1857 to the turn of the century, the
+style of the Willcox and Gibbs sewing machine changed very little (fig.
+39). It was the most popular and the most reliable of the many
+chainstitch machines. In addition to the basic mechanical patents, Gibbs
+also patented the design of the sewing-machine head in 1860. In the
+specifications, he described it as an open ring set on a base or
+pedestal. The lower part of the open section supported the cloth plate.
+The design of the head, intentionally or not, formed a perfect letter G,
+the initial of the inventor. Later the machine head as a letter G was
+incorporated into the company&rsquo;s trademark. Additional patents were also
+granted to James Willcox for a leg and treadle design and to Charles
+Willcox for mechanical improvements.</p>
+
+<p>It has not been possible to secure information on records of serial
+numbers from the late 1870s through the 1920s to aid in dating machines
+of that period. For the preceding years, however, the machines may be
+dated approximately as follows:</p>
+
+<table summary="Dates and Serial Numbers of Willcox and Gibbs sewing machines">
+<tr><td><i>Serial Number</i></td><td><i>Year</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>1-10000</td><td>1857</td></tr>
+<tr><td>10001-20000</td><td>1858</td></tr>
+<tr><td>20001-30000</td><td>1859</td></tr>
+<tr><td>30001-40000</td><td>1860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>40001-50000</td><td>1861</td></tr>
+<tr><td>50001-60000</td><td>1862</td></tr>
+<tr><td>60001-70000</td><td>1863</td></tr>
+<tr><td>70001-80000</td><td>1864</td></tr>
+<tr><td>80001-90000</td><td>1865</td></tr>
+<tr><td>90001-100000</td><td>1866</td></tr>
+<tr><td>100001-115000</td><td>1867</td></tr>
+<tr><td>115001-130000</td><td>1868</td></tr>
+<tr><td>130001-145000</td><td>1869</td></tr>
+<tr><td>145001-160000</td><td>1870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>160001-190127</td><td>1871</td></tr>
+<tr><td>190128-223766</td><td>1872</td></tr>
+<tr><td>223767-239647</td><td>1873</td></tr>
+<tr><td>239648-253357</td><td>1874</td></tr>
+<tr><td>253358-267879</td><td>1875</td></tr>
+<tr><td>267880-279637</td><td>1876</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Although the Willcox and Gibbs company is still in existence, for the
+past several decades the company has limited itself to the production of
+specialized manufacturing machines rather than family machines.
+(Smithsonian photo 58986.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="fig_132" id="fig_132"></a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>
+<img src="images/i220.png" width="600" height="970" alt="Figure 132." title="Figure 132." /></div>
+<p class="caption3"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>Figure 132.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Illustration</span> from <i>Knights American
+Mechanical Dictionary</i>, vol. 3, p. 2122. The 68 sewing-machine stitches
+in use by 1882 are as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="blockhang"><p><span class="smcap">Single Thread</span></p>
+
+<p>1. Running stitch.</p>
+
+<p>2. Back stitch.</p>
+
+<p>3. Fast stitch.</p>
+
+<p>4. Chainstitch.</p>
+
+<p>5. Coiled-loop chainstitch.</p>
+
+<p>6. Knitted-loop chainstitch.</p>
+
+<p>7. Knotted-loop chainstitch.</p>
+
+<p>8. Loop enchained by second alternate stitch.</p>
+
+<p>9. Each loop locks and enchains alternate loops.</p>
+
+<p>10. Staple stitch (for waxed threads only).</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Two Threads</span></p>
+
+<p>11. Double-needle chainstitch.</p>
+
+<p>12. Double-thread chainstitch (one needle).</p>
+
+<p>13. Double-looped chainstitch.</p>
+
+<p>14. Chain with interlocking thread.</p>
+
+<p>15. Under-thread through its own loop.</p>
+
+<p>16. Two needles penetrate fabric from opposite sides.</p>
+
+<p>17. Two needles working from the same side.</p>
+
+<p>18. Double interlocking loop.</p>
+
+<p>19. Lockstitch.</p>
+
+<p>20. Twist in needle thread.</p>
+
+<p>21. Double twist in needle thread.</p>
+
+<p>22. Twist in shuttle thread.</p>
+
+<p>23. Double twist in shuttle thread.</p>
+
+<p>24. Knot stitch, shuttle thread knotted at every stitch.</p>
+
+<p>25. Knot stitch, shuttle thread knotted at every other stitch.</p>
+
+<p>26. Knot stitch, shuttle thread through the needle thread loop and
+knotted around the loop.</p>
+
+<p>27. Shuttle thread pulled to the surface and interlocked with
+succeeding stitch to form an embroidery stitch.</p>
+
+<p>28. Wire-lock stitch, thread locked in place with wire.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Three Threads</span></p>
+
+<p>29. Two shuttles, each locking alternate loops.</p>
+
+<p>30. Double loop with interlocking third thread.</p>
+
+<p>31. Two shuttle threads, both locking each loop.</p>
+
+<p>32. Two shuttle threads intertwining and locking each loop.</p>
+
+<p>33. Single thread; loop of needle thread drawn up over the edge and
+locked by needle at its next descent.</p>
+
+<p>34. Two threads; loops of needle thread, above and below, extend to
+the edge of the fabric, and are locked by shuttle thread.</p>
+
+<p>35. Two threads; needle penetrates back from edge, its loop passed
+to and interlocked by the needle at its next descent over the edge,
+and this second needle-loop locked by shuttle thread.</p>
+
+<p>36. Two threads; shuttle thread drawn up over the edge of the
+fabric to the line of the needle thread.</p>
+
+<p>37. Two threads; needle loop through the fabric locked by needle
+loop over the edge and second loop locked by second thread.</p>
+
+<p>38. Two threads; edge of fabric covered by shuttle thread.</p>
+
+<p>39. Three threads; third thread laid around the stitch at the edge
+of the fabric.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Ornamental Stitches</span></p>
+
+<p>40. Zigzag; single thread chainstitch (4).</p>
+
+<p>41. Zigzag; two-thread lockstitch (19).</p>
+
+<p>42. Zigzag; two-thread chainstitch (13).</p>
+
+<p>43. Zigzag; chain stitch with interlocking thread (14).</p>
+
+<p>44. Zigzag; double loop with interlocking third thread (30).</p>
+
+<p>45. Zigzag; running stitch (1).</p>
+
+<p>46. Zigzag; two needles and shuttle.</p>
+
+<p>47. Zigzag; variation of 46.</p>
+
+<p>48-52. Zigzag stitches for sewing straw braid.</p>
+
+<p>53-62. Straight straw-braid stitches.</p>
+
+<p>63-67. Special embroidery stitches.</p>
+
+<p>68. Saddler&rsquo;s stitch.</p></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p>In the <i>Sewing Machine News</i>, vol. 3, no. 5, p. 12 (1881), there were
+listed a number of then &ldquo;defunct&rdquo; machines and companies. Among these
+are many well-known names and little-known names for which at least one
+additional reference can be found. There are some, however, for which
+this is the only reference to date. These are: Blanchard, Babcock,
+Banner, Brown Rotary, Cottage, Cole, Duplex, Economist, Erie, Gutman,
+Hill, Hancock &amp; Bennett, Jenks, Lockmar, La Favorite, Learned, Leggett,
+McCoy, McCardy, Medallion, McArthur &amp; Co., Monopoly, Moreau, Mack,
+Niagra, New Cannaan, Orphean, Pride-of-the-West, Seamen &amp; Guiness,
+Surprise, Stackpole, Shanks, Stanford, Troy, Utica, United States
+Family, Weaver, Wagner, and Williams. Some of these names may have been
+a &ldquo;special&rdquo; name given to machines manufactured by one of the known
+companies, but at least a few are names of machines manufactured for a
+very short time prior to 1881 about which we would like to know more.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p>
+<h3 class="apphead">III. Chronological List of U.S. Sewing-Machine Patent Models in the
+Smithsonian Collections</h3>
+
+
+<p>There are more than seven hundred sewing-machine patent models and a
+similar number of attachment models in the Smithsonian collections. Most
+of these machines were received in 1926 when the Patent Office disposed
+of its collection of hundreds of thousands of models. Prior to 1880,
+models had been required with the patent application; although the
+requirement was discontinued that year, patentees continued to furnish
+models for another decade or so. All models prior to 1836 were lost in a
+Patent Office fire of that year, but since the sewing-machine patent
+history dates from the 1840s, most of the historically important ones of
+this subject have been preserved.</p>
+
+<p>These models form a valuable part of the record of the invention,
+supplementing the drawings and the text of the written specifications.
+The early sewing-machine models were made to order, either by the
+inventor or a commissioned model maker. As soon as sewing machines were
+produced commercially, it was less expensive for the patentee to use a
+commercial machine of the period, to which he added his change or
+improvement, than to have a complete model constructed to order. Some of
+the commercial machines used in this way are the only examples known to
+be in existence, and as such, are of more interest in establishing the
+history of the manufactured machine than for the minor patented changes.</p>
+
+<p>During the period of the &ldquo;Sewing Machine Combination,&rdquo; many patentees
+attempted to invent and patent &ldquo;the different machine.&rdquo; This was either
+a radical change in style or an attempt to produce a far less-expensive
+type of machine. These machines were not always put into commercial
+production, but the patent models give an indication of the extent to
+which some inventors went to simplify or vary the mechanics of machine
+sewing.</p>
+
+<p>The following is a list of those sewing-machine patent models in the
+Smithsonian Institution collections:</p>
+<table width="90%" summary="Patentees, dates and patent numbers of sewing machine models in Smithsonian collection">
+<tr><th><i>Patentee</i></th><th><i>Date</i></th><th align='right'><i>Patent Number</i></th></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td> Greenough, John J.</td><td>Feb. 21, 1842</td><td align='right'>2,466</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bean, Benjamin W.</td><td>March 4, 1843</td><td align='right'>2,982</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Corliss, George H.</td><td>Dec. 27, 1843</td><td align='right'>3,389</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Howe, Elias, Jr.</td><td>Sept. 10, 1846</td><td align='right'>4,750</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bachelder, John</td><td>May 8, 1849</td><td align='right'>6,439</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wilson, Allen B.</td><td>Nov. 12, 1850</td><td align='right'>7,776</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Robinson, Frederick R.</td><td>Dec. 10, 1850</td><td align='right'>7,824</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Grover &amp; Baker</td><td>Feb. 11, 1851</td><td align='right'>7,931</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Singer, Isaac M.</td><td>Aug. 12, 1851</td><td align='right'>8,294</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wilson, Allen B.</td><td>Aug. 12, 1851</td><td align='right'>8,296</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wilson, Allen B.</td><td>June 15, 1852</td><td align='right'>9,041</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Miller, Charles</td><td>July 20, 1852</td><td align='right'>9,139</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Avery, Otis</td><td>Oct. 19, 1852</td><td align='right'>9,338</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hodgkins, G.</td><td>Nov. 2, 1852</td><td align='right'>9,365</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bradeen, J. G.</td><td>Nov. 2, 1852</td><td align='right'>9,380</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bates, W. G.</td><td>Feb. 22, 1853</td><td align='right'>9,592</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Thompson, T. C.</td><td>March 29, 1853</td><td align='right'>9,641</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wickersham, W.</td><td>April 19, 1853</td><td align='right'>9,679</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Johnson, W. H.</td><td>March 7, 1854</td><td align='right'>10,597</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Harrison, J., Jr.</td><td>April 11, 1854</td><td align='right'>10,763</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Avery, Otis</td><td>May 9, 1854</td><td align='right'>10,880</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Singer, Isaac</td><td>May 30, 1854</td><td align='right'>10,975</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hunt, Walter</td><td>June 27, 1854</td><td align='right'>11,161</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Roper, S. H.</td><td>Aug. 15, 1854</td><td align='right'>11,531</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Shaw, P.</td><td>Sept. 12, 1854</td><td align='right'>11,680</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Ambler, D. C.</td><td>Nov. 1, 1854</td><td align='right'>11,884</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Robertson, T. J. W.</td><td>Nov. 28, 1854</td><td align='right'>12,015</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lyon, W.</td><td>Dec. 12, 1854</td><td align='right'>12,066</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stedman, G. W.</td><td>Dec. 12, 1854</td><td align='right'>12,074</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Ward, D. T.</td><td>Jan. 2, 1855</td><td align='right'>12,146</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Conant, J. S.</td><td>Jan. 16, 1855</td><td align='right'>12,233</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, H. B.</td><td>Jan. 16, 1855</td><td align='right'>12,247</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Singer, I. M.</td><td>Feb. 6, 1855</td><td align='right'>12,364</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stedman, G. W.</td><td>March 20, 1855</td><td align='right'>12,573</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stedman, G. W.</td><td>May 1, 1855</td><td align='right'>12,798<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td> Chilcott, J., and Scrimgeour, J.</td><td>March 15, 1855</td><td align='right'>12,856</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Durgin, Charles A.</td><td>May 22, 1855</td><td align='right'>12,902</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bond, J., Jr.</td><td>May 22, 1855</td><td align='right'>12,939</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Singer, Isaac</td><td>June 12, 1855</td><td align='right'>13,065</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Harrison, J., Jr.</td><td>Oct. 2, 1855</td><td align='right'>13,616</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Singer, I. M.</td><td>Oct. 9, 1855</td><td align='right'>13,661</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Singer, I. M.</td><td>Oct. 9, 1855</td><td align='right'>13,662</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Langdon, L. W.</td><td>Oct. 30, 1855</td><td align='right'>13,727</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stedman, G. W.</td><td>Nov. 27, 1855</td><td align='right'>13,856</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Swingle, A.</td><td>Feb. 5, 1856</td><td align='right'>14,207</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Watson, Wm. C.</td><td>March 11, 1856</td><td align='right'>14,433</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Singer, I. M.</td><td>March 18, 1856</td><td align='right'>14,475</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Grover, W. O.</td><td>May 27, 1856</td><td align='right'>14,956</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Blodgett, S. C.</td><td>Aug. 5, 1856</td><td align='right'>15,469</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Roper, S. H.</td><td>Nov. 4, 1856</td><td align='right'>16,026</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Singer, Isaac M.</td><td>Nov. 4, 1856</td><td align='right'>16,030</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gibbs, James E. A.</td><td>Dec. 16, 1856</td><td align='right'>16,234</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Jennings, L.</td><td>Dec. 16, 1856</td><td align='right'>16,237</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Johnson, A. F.</td><td>Jan. 13, 1857</td><td align='right'>16,387</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gibbs, J. E. A.</td><td>Jan. 20, 1857</td><td align='right'>16,434</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Howe, Elias, Jr.</td><td>Jan. 20, 1857</td><td align='right'>16,436</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Alexander, Elisa</td><td>Feb. 3, 1857</td><td align='right'>16,518</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gray, Joshua</td><td>Feb. 3, 1857</td><td align='right'>16,566</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Belcher, C. D.</td><td>March 3, 1857</td><td align='right'>16,710</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Pratt, S. F.</td><td>March 3, 1857</td><td align='right'>16,745</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Nettleton &amp; Raymond</td><td>April 14, 1857</td><td align='right'>17,049</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gibbs, J. E. A.</td><td>June 2, 1857</td><td align='right'>17,427</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Harris, Daniel</td><td>June 9, 1857</td><td align='right'>17,508</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Harris, Daniel</td><td>June 16, 1857</td><td align='right'>17,571</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sage, William</td><td>June 30, 1857</td><td align='right'>17,717</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lathbury, E. T.</td><td>July 7, 1857</td><td align='right'>17,744</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wickersham, W.</td><td>Aug. 25, 1857</td><td align='right'>18,068</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wickersham, W.</td><td>Aug. 25, 1857</td><td align='right'>18,069</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Behn, Henry</td><td>Aug. 25, 1857</td><td align='right'>18,071</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Nettleton, Wm. H., and Raymond, Charles</td><td>Oct. 6, 1857</td><td align='right'>18,350</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Roper, S. H.</td><td>Oct. 27, 1857</td><td align='right'>18,522</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fetter, George</td><td>Dec. 1, 1857</td><td align='right'>18,793</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Watson, W. C.</td><td>Dec. 8, 1857</td><td align='right'>18,834</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Behn, H.</td><td>Dec. 15, 1857</td><td align='right'>18,880</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hubbard, George W.</td><td>Dec. 22, 1857</td><td align='right'>18,904</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lazelle, W. H.</td><td>Dec. 22, 1857</td><td align='right'>18,915</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clark, David W.</td><td>Jan. 5, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,015</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fetter, George</td><td>Jan. 5, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,059</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clark, David W.</td><td>Jan. 12, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,072</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clark, David W.</td><td>Jan. 19, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,129</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dimmock, Martial, and Rixford, Nathan</td><td>Jan. 19, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,135</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Boyd, A. H.</td><td>Jan. 19, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,171</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Angell, Benjamin J.</td><td>Feb. 9, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,285</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clark, David W.</td><td>Feb. 23, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,409</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Raymond, Charles</td><td>March 9, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,612</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hendrick, Joseph E.</td><td>March 16, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,660</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Parker, Sidney</td><td>March 16, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,662</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gray, Joshua</td><td>March 16, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,665</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Coates, F. S.</td><td>March 23, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,684</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clark, David W.</td><td>March 23, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,732</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Reynolds, O. S.</td><td>March 30, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,793</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartholf, Abraham</td><td>April 6, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,823</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Savage, E.</td><td>April 6, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,876</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Atwood, J. E., J. C., and O.</td><td>April 13, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,903</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bosworth, Chas. F.</td><td>April 20, 1858</td><td align='right'>19,979</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clark, David W.</td><td>June 8, 1858</td><td align='right'>20,481</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Herron, A. C.</td><td>June 15, 1858</td><td align='right'>20,557</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Johnson, A. F.</td><td>June 22, 1858</td><td align='right'>20,686</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Barnes, W. T.</td><td>June 29, 1858</td><td align='right'>20,688</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, E. H.</td><td>June 29, 1858</td><td align='right'>20,739</td></tr>
+<tr><td> West, H. B., and Willson, H. F.</td><td>June 29, 1858</td><td align='right'>20,753</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Miller, W.</td><td>June 29, 1858</td><td align='right'>20,763</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Blake, Lyman R.</td><td>July 6, 1858</td><td align='right'>20,775</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Carpenter, Lunan</td><td>July 27, 1858</td><td align='right'>20,990</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Moore, Charles</td><td>July 27, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,015</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, E. H.</td><td>Aug. 3, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,089</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wheeler and Carpenter</td><td>Aug. 3, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,100</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gibbs, J. E. A.</td><td>Aug. 10, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,129</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Uhlinger, W. P.</td><td>Aug. 17, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,224</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clark, David W.</td><td>Aug. 31, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,322</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Blodgett, S. C.</td><td>Sept. 7, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,465</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hubbard, G. W.</td><td>Sept. 14, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,537</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hendrick, J. E.</td><td>Oct. 5, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,722</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gibbs, J. E. A.</td><td>Oct. 12, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,751</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sangster, Amos. W.</td><td>Oct. 26, 1858</td><td align='right'>21,929</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Avery, O. and Z. W.</td><td>Nov. 9, 1858</td><td align='right'>22,007</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Spencer and Lamb</td><td>Nov. 23, 1858</td><td align='right'>22,137</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Perry, James</td><td>Nov. 23, 1858</td><td align='right'>22,148</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Burnet and Broderick</td><td>Nov. 30, 1858</td><td align='right'>22,160</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hook, Albert H.</td><td>Nov. 30, 1858</td><td align='right'>22,179</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Raymond, Charles</td><td>Nov. 30, 1858</td><td align='right'>22,220</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bishop, H. H.</td><td>Dec. 7, 1858</td><td align='right'>22,226</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Pratt, S. F.</td><td>Dec. 7, 1858</td><td align='right'>22,240</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Atwood, J. E.</td><td>Dec. 14, 1858</td><td align='right'>22,273</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fosket, W. A., and  Savage, Elliot</td><td>Jan. 25, 1859</td><td align='right'>22,719</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Snyder, W.</td><td>Feb. 15, 1859</td><td align='right'>22,987</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clark, D. W.</td><td>May 3, 1859</td><td align='right'>23,823</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Boyd, A. H.</td><td>May 17, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,003</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gray, Joshua</td><td>May 17, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,022</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hook, Albert H.</td><td>May 17, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,027</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Spencer, James C.</td><td>May 17, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,061</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Carhart, Peter S.</td><td>May 24, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,098</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCurdy, J. S.</td><td>June 14, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,395<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td> Goodwyn, H. H.</td><td>June 21, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,455</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Grout, William</td><td>July 5, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,629</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hensel, George</td><td>July 12, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,737</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Parker, Sidney</td><td>July 12, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,780</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hall, William</td><td>July 26, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,870</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hayden, H. W.</td><td>Aug. 2, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,937</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Kelsey, D.</td><td>Aug. 2, 1859</td><td align='right'>24,939</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Emswiler, J. B.</td><td>Aug. 9, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,002</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Farr, C. N.</td><td>Aug. 9, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,004</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Harrison, James, Jr.</td><td>Aug. 9, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,013</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Tapley, G. S.</td><td>Aug. 9, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,059</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Barnes, W. T.</td><td>Aug. 16, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,084</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Booth, Ezekial</td><td>Aug. 16, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,087</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hinkley, J.</td><td>Aug. 23, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,231</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Harrison, James, Jr.</td><td>Aug. 30, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,262</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Buell, J. S.</td><td>Sept. 13, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,381</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Vogel, Kasimir</td><td>Oct. 4, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,692</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Woodward, F. G.</td><td>Oct. 11, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,782</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Barrett, O. D.</td><td>Oct. 11, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,785</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Barnes, William T.</td><td>Oct. 25, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,876</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sawyer, Irwin, and Alsop, T.</td><td>Oct. 25, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,918</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Budlong, William G.</td><td>Nov. 1, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,946</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fosket, William A., and Savage, E.</td><td>Nov. 1, 1859</td><td align='right'>25,963</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hicks, W. C.</td><td>Nov. 8, 1859</td><td align='right'>26,035</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Scofield, C.</td><td>Nov. 8, 1859</td><td align='right'>26,059</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Pearson, William</td><td>Nov. 22, 1859</td><td align='right'>26,201</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCurdy, James S.</td><td>Nov. 22, 1859</td><td align='right'>26,234</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clark, Edwin</td><td>Dec. 6, 1859</td><td align='right'>26,336</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dickinson, C. W.</td><td>Dec. 6, 1859</td><td align='right'>26,346</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Miller, Charles</td><td>Dec. 13, 1859</td><td align='right'>26,462</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rowe, Jas.</td><td>Dec. 27, 1859</td><td align='right'>26,638</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Johnson, A. F.</td><td>Jan. 24, 1860</td><td align='right'>26,948</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Thomson, J.</td><td>Feb. 7, 1860</td><td align='right'>27,082</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Juengst, George</td><td>Feb. 14, 1860</td><td align='right'>27,132</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Davis, Job A.</td><td>Feb. 21, 1860</td><td align='right'>27,208</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gibbs, James E. A.</td><td>Feb. 21, 1860</td><td align='right'>27,214</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rowe, James</td><td>Feb. 21, 1860</td><td align='right'>27,260</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dopp, H. W.</td><td>Feb. 28, 1860</td><td align='right'>27,279</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Paine, A. R.</td><td>March 6, 1860</td><td align='right'>27,412</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smalley, J.</td><td>March 20, 1860</td><td align='right'>27,577</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Newlove, T.</td><td>April 3, 1860</td><td align='right'>27,761</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCurdy, J. S.</td><td>May 1, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,097</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Arnold, G. B.</td><td>May 8, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,139</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bean, E. E.</td><td>May 8, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,144</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Holly, Birdsill</td><td>May 8, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,176</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Chamberlain, J. N.</td><td>May 29, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,452</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Ruddick, H.</td><td>May 29, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,538</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Scofield, Chas., and Rice, Clarke</td><td>June 5, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,610</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, Wilson H.</td><td>June 19, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,785</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rose, I. M.</td><td>June 19, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,814</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gibbs, J. E. A.</td><td>June 26, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,851</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCurdy, J. S.</td><td>July 3, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,993</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Mueller, H.</td><td>July 3, 1860</td><td align='right'>28,996</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sutton, Wm. A.</td><td>July 17, 1860</td><td align='right'>29,202</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hicks, W. C.</td><td>July 24, 1860</td><td align='right'>29,268</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Tracy, D.</td><td>Sept. 11, 1860</td><td align='right'>30,012</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Washburn, T. S.</td><td>Sept. 11, 1860</td><td align='right'>30,031</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Arnold, G. B., and A.</td><td>Sept. 25, 1860</td><td align='right'>30,112</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Leavitt, Rufus</td><td>Nov. 13, 1860</td><td align='right'>30,634</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Payne, R. S.</td><td>Nov. 13, 1860</td><td align='right'>30,641</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Heyer, Frederick</td><td>Nov. 27, 1860</td><td align='right'>30,731</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hardie, J. W.</td><td>Dec. 4, 1860</td><td align='right'>30,854</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Earle, T.</td><td>Jan. 22, 1861</td><td align='right'>31,156</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bruen, J. T.</td><td>Jan. 22, 1861</td><td align='right'>31,208</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, J. M.</td><td>Feb. 5, 1861</td><td align='right'>31,334</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, L. H.</td><td>Feb. 12, 1861</td><td align='right'>31,411</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rice, Quartus</td><td>Feb. 12, 1861</td><td align='right'>31,429</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rose, I. M.</td><td>March 5, 1861</td><td align='right'>31,628</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Ross, Noble G.</td><td>March 26, 1861</td><td align='right'>31,829</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Boyd, A. H.</td><td>April 2, 1861</td><td align='right'>31,864</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Mallary, G. H.</td><td>April 2, 1861</td><td align='right'>31,897</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Shaw, H. L.</td><td>April 9, 1861</td><td align='right'>32,007</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Burr, Theodore</td><td>April 9, 1861</td><td align='right'>32,023</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Jones, William, and Haughian, P.</td><td>May 14, 1861</td><td align='right'>32,297</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wilder, M. G.</td><td>May 14, 1861</td><td align='right'>32,323</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, Lewis H.</td><td>May 21, 1861</td><td align='right'>32,385</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stoakes, J. W.</td><td>May 28, 1861</td><td align='right'>32,456</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fuller, William M.</td><td>June 4, 1861</td><td align='right'>32,496</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Norton, B. F.</td><td>July 9, 1861</td><td align='right'>32,782</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Raymond, C.</td><td>July 9, 1861</td><td align='right'>32,785</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Raymond, Charles</td><td>July 30, 1861</td><td align='right'>32,925</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Case, G. F.</td><td>Aug. 13, 1861</td><td align='right'>33,029</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hodgkins, C.</td><td>Aug. 20, 1861</td><td align='right'>33,085</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Marble, F. E.</td><td>Oct. 8, 1861</td><td align='right'>33,439</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Mann, Charles</td><td>Oct. 22, 1861</td><td align='right'>33,556</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Grover, W. O.</td><td>Nov. 26, 1861</td><td align='right'>33,778</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hendrickson, E. M.</td><td>Feb. 4, 1862</td><td align='right'>34,330</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Derocquigny, A. C. F., Gance, D., and Hanzo, L.</td><td>March 25, 1862</td><td align='right'>34,748</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Thompson, R.</td><td>April 8, 1862</td><td align='right'>34,926</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, John C.</td><td>April 15, 1862</td><td align='right'>34,988</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Palmer, Aaron</td><td>May 13, 1862</td><td align='right'>35,252</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hall, W. S.</td><td>Aug. 5, 1862</td><td align='right'>36,084</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCurdy, James S.</td><td>Aug. 19, 1862</td><td align='right'>36,256</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Grover, W. O.</td><td>Sept. 9, 1862</td><td align='right'>36,405</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wilkins, J. N.</td><td>Sept. 30, 1862</td><td align='right'>36,591</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Humphrey, D. W. G.</td><td>Oct. 7, 1862</td><td align='right'>36,617</td></tr>
+<tr><td> House, H. A., and J. A.</td><td>Nov. 11, 1862</td><td align='right'>36,932</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Crossby, C. O., and Kellogg, H.</td><td>Dec. 2, 1862</td><td align='right'>37,033</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Shaw, A. B.</td><td>Dec. 16, 1862</td><td align='right'>37,202<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td> Pipo, John A.</td><td>Jan. 27, 1863</td><td align='right'>37,550</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hollowell, J. G.</td><td>Feb. 10, 1863</td><td align='right'>37,624</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Howe, A. B.</td><td>March 17, 1863</td><td align='right'>37,913</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Weitling, W.</td><td>March 17, 1863</td><td align='right'>37,931</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Shaw &amp; Clark</td><td>April 21, 1863</td><td align='right'>38,246</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Baldwin, Cyrus W.</td><td>April 28, 1863</td><td align='right'>38,276</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Grote, F. W.</td><td>May 5, 1863</td><td align='right'>38,447</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Palmer, C. H.</td><td>May 5, 1863</td><td align='right'>38,450</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Mack, W. A.</td><td>May 19, 1863</td><td align='right'>38,592</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bosworth, C. F.</td><td>June 9, 1863</td><td align='right'>38,807</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCurdy, J. S.</td><td>June 16, 1863</td><td align='right'>38,931</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Langdon, Leander W.</td><td>July 14, 1863</td><td align='right'>39,256</td></tr>
+<tr><td> House, J. A., and H.A. (4 patents on 1 machine)</td><td>Aug. 4, 1863</td><td align='right'>39,442-39,445</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Tracy and Hobbs</td><td>Sept. 15, 1863</td><td align='right'>40,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wagener, Jeptha A.</td><td>Oct. 13, 1863</td><td align='right'>40,296</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rehfuss, G.</td><td>Oct. 13, 1863</td><td align='right'>40,311</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lathrop, Lebbeus W.,  and de Sanno, Wm. P.</td><td>Oct. 27, 1863</td><td align='right'>40,446</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Heyer, W. D.</td><td>Nov. 17, 1863</td><td align='right'>40,622</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Simmons, A. G., and Scofield, C.</td><td>March 1, 1864</td><td align='right'>41,790</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Guinness, W. S.</td><td>March 15, 1864</td><td align='right'>41,916</td></tr>
+<tr><td rowspan="4"> Willcox, Charles H. (4 patents on 1 machine)</td><td>March 22, 1864</td><td align='right'>42,036</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Aug. 9, 1864</td><td align='right'>43,819</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Sept. 27, 1864</td><td align='right'>44,490</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Sept. 27, 1864</td><td align='right'>44,491</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sibley, J. J.</td><td>March 29, 1864</td><td align='right'>42,117</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Thompson, R.</td><td>April 19, 1864</td><td align='right'>42,449</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McKay &amp; Blake</td><td>May 24, 1864</td><td align='right'>42,916</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Chittenden, H. H.</td><td>June 28, 1864</td><td align='right'>43,289</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hall, Luther</td><td>July 5, 1864</td><td align='right'>43,404</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Planer, Louis</td><td>Aug. 23, 1864</td><td align='right'>43,927</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Atwater, B.</td><td>Sept. 6, 1864</td><td align='right'>44,063</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dale, John D.</td><td>Oct. 11, 1864</td><td align='right'>44,686</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gritzner, M. C.</td><td>Oct. 18, 1864</td><td align='right'>44,720</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, DeWitt C.</td><td>Dec. 20, 1864</td><td align='right'>45,528</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Weitling, W.</td><td>Jan. 3, 1865</td><td align='right'>45,777</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cadwell, C.</td><td>Jan. 24, 1865</td><td align='right'>45,972</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartlett, J. W.</td><td>Jan. 31, 1865</td><td align='right'>46,064</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCurdy, James S.</td><td>Feb. 7, 1865</td><td align='right'>46,303</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lamb, Thomas, and Allen, John</td><td>Aug. 15, 1865</td><td align='right'>49,421</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Humphrey, D. W. G.</td><td>Aug. 29, 1865</td><td align='right'>49,627</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Tarbox, John N.</td><td>Sept. 5, 1865</td><td align='right'>49,803</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Crosby, C. O.</td><td>Oct. 3, 1865</td><td align='right'>50,225</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cajar, E.</td><td>Oct. 3, 1865</td><td align='right'>50,299</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hart, William</td><td>Oct. 17, 1865</td><td align='right'>50,469</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hecht, A.</td><td>Oct. 17, 1865</td><td align='right'>50,473</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Emerson, John</td><td>Nov. 14, 1865</td><td align='right'>50,989</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keats, John, and Clark, Wm. S.</td><td>Nov. 14, 1865</td><td align='right'>50,995</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rehfuss, George</td><td>Nov. 21, 1865</td><td align='right'>51,086</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Eickemeyer, Rudolf</td><td>Feb. 20, 1866</td><td align='right'>52,698</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hanlon, John</td><td>Feb. 27, 1866</td><td align='right'>52,847</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCurdy, J. S.</td><td>April 3, 1866</td><td align='right'>53,743</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartram, W. B.</td><td>May 15, 1866</td><td align='right'>54,670</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartram, W. B.</td><td>May 15, 1866</td><td align='right'>54,671</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Goodspeed, G. N.</td><td>May 15, 1866</td><td align='right'>54,816</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hayes, J.</td><td>May 22, 1866</td><td align='right'>55,029</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCloskey, John</td><td>June 19, 1866</td><td align='right'>55,688</td></tr>
+<tr><td> House, J. A. and H. A.</td><td>June 26, 1866</td><td align='right'>55,865</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Tucker, Joseph C.</td><td>July 24, 1866</td><td align='right'>56,641</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Warth, Albin</td><td>July 24, 1866</td><td align='right'>56,646</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Destouy, A.</td><td>July 31, 1866</td><td align='right'>56,729</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Schwalback, M.</td><td>July 31, 1866</td><td align='right'>56,805</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cately, William H.</td><td>Aug. 7, 1866</td><td align='right'>56,902</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Piper, D. B.</td><td>Aug. 7, 1866</td><td align='right'>56,990</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Leyden, Austin</td><td>Aug. 14, 1866</td><td align='right'>57,157</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clements, James M.</td><td>Aug. 21, 1866</td><td align='right'>57,451</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Davis, Job A.</td><td>Oct. 9, 1866</td><td align='right'>58,614</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rodier, Peter</td><td>Nov. 13, 1866</td><td align='right'>59,659</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Duchemin, Wm.</td><td>Nov. 13, 1866</td><td align='right'>59,715</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Kilbourn, E. E.</td><td>Nov. 20, 1866</td><td align='right'>59,746</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Reed, T. K.</td><td>Dec. 4, 1866</td><td align='right'>60,241</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Singer, I. M.</td><td>Dec. 11, 1866</td><td align='right'>60,433</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartram, W. B.</td><td>Jan. 1, 1867</td><td align='right'>60,669</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rehfuss, G.</td><td>Jan. 8, 1867</td><td align='right'>61,102</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Singer, Isaac</td><td>Jan. 15, 1867</td><td align='right'>61,270</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cajar, Emil</td><td>Feb. 5, 1867</td><td align='right'>61,711</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Craige, E. H.</td><td>Feb. 19, 1867</td><td align='right'>62,186</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Reed, T. K.</td><td>Feb. 19, 1867</td><td align='right'>62,287</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartram, W. B.</td><td>March 5, 1867</td><td align='right'>62,520</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fuller, H. W.</td><td>March 19, 1867</td><td align='right'>63,033</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stannard, M.</td><td>April 23, 1867</td><td align='right'>64,184</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Craige, E. H.</td><td>Aug. 13, 1867</td><td align='right'>67,635</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Doll, Arnold</td><td>Sept. 3, 1867</td><td align='right'>68,420</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bruen, L. B.</td><td>Sept. 17, 1867</td><td align='right'>68,839</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hodgkins, C.</td><td>Oct. 8, 1867</td><td align='right'>69,666</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Baker, G. W.</td><td>Oct. 29, 1867</td><td align='right'>70,152</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cadwell, Caleb</td><td>Nov. 19, 1867</td><td align='right'>71,131</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fanning, J.</td><td>Dec. 31, 1867</td><td align='right'>72,829</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Warth, Albin</td><td>Jan. 7, 1868</td><td align='right'>73,064</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rehfuss, George</td><td>Jan. 7, 1868</td><td align='right'>73,119</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cornely, E.</td><td>Jan. 28, 1868</td><td align='right'>73,696</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Blake, L. R.</td><td>Feb. 11, 1868</td><td align='right'>74,289</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fales, J. F.</td><td>Feb. 11, 1868</td><td align='right'>74,328</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Jencks, G. L.</td><td>Feb. 18, 1868</td><td align='right'>74,694</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clark, Edwin E.</td><td>Feb. 25, 1868</td><td align='right'>74,751</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Halbert, A. W.</td><td>March 31, 1868</td><td align='right'>76,076</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gritzner, M. C.</td><td>April 7, 1868</td><td align='right'>76,323</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartlett, Joseph W.</td><td>April 7, 1868</td><td align='right'>76,385</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Waterbury, Enos</td><td>June 16, 1868</td><td align='right'>79,037</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cole, W. H.</td><td>June 30, 1868</td><td align='right'>79,447<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lamson, Henry P.</td><td>July 7, 1868</td><td align='right'>79,579</td></tr>
+<tr><td> French, S.</td><td>July 28, 1868</td><td align='right'>80,345</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stein, M. J.</td><td>Sept. 8, 1868</td><td align='right'>81,956</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hancock, H. J.</td><td>Oct. 27, 1868</td><td align='right'>83,492</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartram, W. B.</td><td>Nov. 3, 1868</td><td align='right'>83,592</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Benedict, C. P.</td><td>Nov. 3, 1868</td><td align='right'>83,596</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bonnaz, A.</td><td>Nov. 10, 1868</td><td align='right'>83,909</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bonnaz, A.</td><td>Nov. 10, 1868</td><td align='right'>83,910</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Elliott, F.</td><td>Jan. 19, 1869</td><td align='right'>85,918</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Canfield, F. P.</td><td>Jan. 19, 1869</td><td align='right'>86,057</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Arnold B.</td><td>Jan. 26, 1869</td><td align='right'>86,121</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Jones, John</td><td>Jan. 26, 1869</td><td align='right'>86,163</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Russell, W. W.</td><td>Feb. 9, 1869</td><td align='right'>86,695</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Eldridge, G. W.</td><td>March 2, 1869</td><td align='right'>87,331</td></tr>
+<tr><td> House, J. A. and H. A.</td><td>March 2, 1869</td><td align='right'>87,338</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gird, E. D.</td><td>March 9, 1869</td><td align='right'>87,559</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Carpenter, William</td><td>March 9, 1869</td><td align='right'>87,633</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dunbar, C. F.</td><td>March 30, 1869</td><td align='right'>88,282</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McLean, J. N.</td><td>March 30, 1869</td><td align='right'>88,499</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Billings, C. E.</td><td>April 6, 1869</td><td align='right'>88,603</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Winter, Wm.</td><td>April 13, 1869</td><td align='right'>88,936</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Tittman, A.</td><td>April 20, 1869</td><td align='right'>89,093</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Swartwout, H. L.</td><td>April 27, 1869</td><td align='right'>89,357</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lyons, Lucius</td><td>April 27, 1869</td><td align='right'>89,489</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Crosby, C. O.</td><td>May 25, 1869</td><td align='right'>90,507</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gutmann, J.</td><td>May 25, 1869</td><td align='right'>90,528</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Duchemin, William</td><td>June 8, 1869</td><td align='right'>91,101</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Adams, John Q.</td><td>July 6, 1869</td><td align='right'>92,138</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bond, Joseph, Jr.</td><td>Aug. 10, 1869</td><td align='right'>93,588</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hoffman, Geo. W.</td><td>Aug. 24, 1869</td><td align='right'>94,112</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Brown, John H.</td><td>Aug. 31, 1869</td><td align='right'>94,389</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Heery, Luke</td><td>Sept. 14, 1869</td><td align='right'>94,740</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gray, Joshua</td><td>Oct. 5, 1869</td><td align='right'>95,581</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, E. H.</td><td>Oct. 26, 1869</td><td align='right'>96,160</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Page, Chas.</td><td>Nov. 2, 1869</td><td align='right'>96,343</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lyon, Lucius</td><td>Nov. 9, 1869</td><td align='right'>96,713</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clever, P. J.</td><td>Nov. 16, 1869</td><td align='right'>96,886</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Mills, Daniel</td><td>Nov. 16, 1869</td><td align='right'>96,944</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Woodruff, Geo. B., and Browning, Geo.</td><td>Nov. 16, 1869</td><td align='right'>97,014</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keith, Jeremiah</td><td>Dec. 7, 1869</td><td align='right'>97,518</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hurtu, Auguste J., and Hautin, Victor J.</td><td>Dec. 21, 1869</td><td align='right'>98,064</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lamb, Thomas</td><td>Dec. 28, 1869</td><td align='right'>98,390</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rudolph, B.</td><td>Feb. 1, 1870</td><td align='right'>99,481</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Porter, Alonzo</td><td>Feb. 8, 1870</td><td align='right'>99,704</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, W. T.</td><td>Feb. 8, 1870</td><td align='right'>99,743</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Meyers, N.</td><td>Feb. 15, 1870</td><td align='right'>99,783</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Grover, W. O.</td><td>Feb. 22, 1870</td><td align='right'>100,139</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Spoehr, F.</td><td>April 12, 1870</td><td align='right'>101,779</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Kendall, George F.</td><td>April 12, 1870</td><td align='right'>101,887</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cooney, W.</td><td>April 26, 1870</td><td align='right'>102,226</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Brown, F. H.</td><td>April 26, 1870</td><td align='right'>102,366</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Howard E., and Jackson, W. H.</td><td>May 31, 1870</td><td align='right'>103,745</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartram, W. B.</td><td>June 14, 1870</td><td align='right'>104,247</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Henriksen, H. P.</td><td>June 21, 1870</td><td align='right'>104,590</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Martine, Charles F.</td><td>June 21, 1870</td><td align='right'>104,612</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Nasch, Isidor</td><td>June 21, 1870</td><td align='right'>104,630</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hall, L.</td><td>July 12, 1870</td><td align='right'>105,329</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lyon, Lucius</td><td>July 26, 1870</td><td align='right'>105,820</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bennor, Joseph</td><td>Aug. 9, 1870</td><td align='right'>106,249</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Barnes, M. M.</td><td>Aug. 16, 1870</td><td align='right'>106,307</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Leslie, Arthur M.</td><td>Oct. 18, 1870</td><td align='right'>108,492</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rayer, William A., and Lincoln, Wm. S.</td><td>Nov. 1, 1870</td><td align='right'>108,827</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Landfear, Wm. R.</td><td>Nov. 22, 1870</td><td align='right'>109,427</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Parham, Charles</td><td>Nov. 22, 1870</td><td align='right'>109,443</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lamb, I. W.</td><td>Nov. 29, 1870</td><td align='right'>109,632</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Moreau, Eugene</td><td>Jan. 3, 1871</td><td align='right'>110,669</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Robinson, Charles E.</td><td>Jan. 3, 1871</td><td align='right'>110,790</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Goodyear, Charles, Jr.</td><td>Jan. 24, 1871</td><td align='right'>111,197</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stevens, G., and Hendy, J.</td><td>Jan. 31, 1871</td><td align='right'>111,488</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Carpenter, Mary P.</td><td>Feb. 21, 1871</td><td align='right'>112,016</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hancock, Henry J.</td><td>Feb. 21, 1871</td><td align='right'>112,033</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sidenberg, W.</td><td>March 14, 1871</td><td align='right'>112,745</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Chase, M.</td><td>April 11, 1871</td><td align='right'>113,498</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stein, M. J.</td><td>April 11, 1871</td><td align='right'>113,593</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Tate, Wm. J.</td><td>April 11, 1871</td><td align='right'>113,704</td></tr>
+<tr><td> House, J. A. and H. A.</td><td>May 2, 1871</td><td align='right'>114,294</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sidenberg, W.</td><td>May 23, 1871</td><td align='right'>115,117</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Beuttels, Charles</td><td>May 23, 1871</td><td align='right'>115,155</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Thompson, G.</td><td>May 23, 1871</td><td align='right'>115,255</td></tr>
+<tr><td rowspan="3"> Willcox and Carleton (3 patents on 1 machine)</td><td rowspan="3">June 27, 1871</td><td align='right'>116,521</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>116,522</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>116,523</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Willcox and Carleton</td><td>July 4, 1871</td><td align='right'>116,783</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Goodyear, Charles, Jr.</td><td>July 11, 1871</td><td align='right'>116,947</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Necker, Carl</td><td>July 18, 1871</td><td align='right'>117,101</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Pitt, James; Joseph;</td><td>July 18, 1871</td><td align='right'>117,203</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Edward; and Wm.</td><td></td><td align='right'></td></tr>
+<tr><td> Jones, John T.</td><td>Aug. 1, 1871</td><td align='right'>117,640</td></tr>
+<tr><td> West, E. P.</td><td>Aug. 1, 1871</td><td align='right'>117,708</td></tr>
+<tr><td rowspan="2"> Jones, Solomon  (2 patents on 1 machine)</td><td rowspan="2">Aug. 29, 1871</td><td align='right'>118,537</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>118,538</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lamb, Thomas</td><td>Sept. 5, 1871</td><td align='right'>118,728</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bosworth, C. F.</td><td>Jan. 9, 1872</td><td align='right'>122,555</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smyth, D. M.</td><td>Jan. 9, 1872</td><td align='right'>122,673</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fish, Warren L.</td><td>Feb. 13, 1872</td><td align='right'>123,625</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Palmer, C. H.</td><td>March 19, 1872</td><td align='right'>124,694</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Baker, G. W.</td><td>April 9, 1872</td><td align='right'>125,374</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gordon and Kinert</td><td>April 16, 1872</td><td align='right'>125,807</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Howard, C. W.</td><td>April 23, 1872</td><td align='right'>126,056</td></tr>
+<tr><td> &nbsp;&nbsp;(second machine)</td><td></td><td align='right'>126,057<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smyth, D. M.</td><td>May 14, 1872</td><td align='right'>126,845</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Beckwith, W. G.</td><td>May 21, 1872</td><td align='right'>126,921</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bouscay, Eloi, Jr.</td><td>May 28, 1872</td><td align='right'>127,145</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Braundbeck, E.</td><td>June 11, 1872</td><td align='right'>127,675</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Heidenthal, W.</td><td>June 11, 1872</td><td align='right'>127,765</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cleminshaw, S.</td><td>June 25, 1872</td><td align='right'>128,363</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wardwell, S. W., Jr.</td><td>July 2, 1872</td><td align='right'>128,684</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Springer, W. A.</td><td>July 9, 1872</td><td align='right'>128,919</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fanning, John</td><td>July 16, 1872</td><td align='right'>129,013</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Parks, Volney</td><td>July 30, 1872</td><td align='right'>129,981</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Baker, G. W.</td><td>July 30, 1872</td><td align='right'>130,005</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smyth, D. M.</td><td>Aug. 6, 1872</td><td align='right'>130,324</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McClure, A. T.</td><td>Aug. 13, 1872</td><td align='right'>130,385</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Ashe, Robert</td><td>Aug. 20, 1872</td><td align='right'>130,555</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartram, W. B.</td><td>Aug. 20, 1872</td><td align='right'>130,557</td></tr>
+<tr><td> West, Elliot P.</td><td>Aug. 20, 1872</td><td align='right'>130,674</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Happe, J., and Newman, W.</td><td>Aug. 20, 1872</td><td align='right'>130,715</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hinds, Jesse L.</td><td>Sept. 10, 1872</td><td align='right'>131,166</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Brown, F. H.</td><td>Oct. 1, 1872</td><td align='right'>131,735</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Beckwith, W. G.</td><td>Nov. 26, 1872</td><td align='right'>133,351</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Turner, S. S.</td><td>Dec. 3, 1872</td><td align='right'>133,553</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Chandler, R.</td><td>Dec. 10, 1872</td><td align='right'>133,757</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Venner, O.</td><td>Dec. 10, 1872</td><td align='right'>133,814</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Duchemin, W.</td><td>Jan. 21, 1873</td><td align='right'>135,032</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sheffield, G. V.</td><td>Jan. 21, 1873</td><td align='right'>135,047</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Parham, Charles</td><td>Feb. 4, 1873</td><td align='right'>135,579</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Goodes, E. A.</td><td>March 11, 1873</td><td align='right'>136,718</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Tittman, A.</td><td>March 11, 1873</td><td align='right'>136,792</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Happe, J., and Newman, W.</td><td>March 25, 1873</td><td align='right'>137,199</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Ragan, Daniel</td><td>April 1, 1873</td><td align='right'>137,321</td></tr>
+<tr><td> O&rsquo;Neil, John</td><td>April 8, 1873</td><td align='right'>137,618</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Kallmeyer, G.</td><td>April 8, 1873</td><td align='right'>137,689</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Ross, J. G., and Miller, T. L.</td><td>May 13, 1873</td><td align='right'>138,764</td></tr>
+<tr><td> West, Elliott P.</td><td>May 13, 1873</td><td align='right'>138,772</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Koch and Brass</td><td>May 13, 1873</td><td align='right'>138,898</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Arnold, B.</td><td>May 20, 1873</td><td align='right'>138,981</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Arnold, B.</td><td>May 20, 1873</td><td align='right'>138,982</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lathrop, L. W.</td><td>May 20, 1873</td><td align='right'>139,067</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Chandler, Rufus</td><td>May 27, 1873</td><td align='right'>139,368</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Jones, S. H.</td><td>July 8, 1873</td><td align='right'>140,631</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smyth, D. M.</td><td>July 22, 1873</td><td align='right'>141,088</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wardwell, S. W., Jr.</td><td>July 29, 1873</td><td align='right'>141,245</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stewart, J., Jr.</td><td>July 29, 1873</td><td align='right'>141,397</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Walker, William</td><td>July 29, 1873</td><td align='right'>141,407</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Blanchard, Helen A.</td><td>Aug. 19, 1873</td><td align='right'>141,987</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Springer, W. A.</td><td>Aug. 26, 1873</td><td align='right'>142,290</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cushman, C. S.</td><td>Sept. 2, 1873</td><td align='right'>142,442</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Porter, D. A.</td><td>Nov. 25, 1873</td><td align='right'>144,864</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Koch &amp; Brass</td><td>Dec. 2, 1873</td><td align='right'>145,215</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Richardson, E. F.</td><td>Dec. 16, 1873</td><td align='right'>145,687</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Weber, Theo. A.</td><td>Dec. 23, 1873</td><td align='right'>145,823</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Scribner, Benjamin, Jr.</td><td>Jan. 13, 1874</td><td align='right'>146,483</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Black, Samuel S.</td><td>Jan. 20, 1874</td><td align='right'>146,642</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Taylor, F. B.</td><td>Jan. 20, 1874</td><td align='right'>146,721</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Richardson, Everett P.</td><td>Jan. 27, 1874</td><td align='right'>146,948</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Muir, William</td><td>Feb. 3, 1874</td><td align='right'>147,152</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Goodes, E. A.</td><td>Feb. 10, 1874</td><td align='right'>147,387</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Springer, Wm. A.</td><td>Feb. 10, 1874</td><td align='right'>147,441</td></tr>
+<tr><td> True, C. B.</td><td>March 10, 1874</td><td align='right'>148,336</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wardwell, S. W., Jr.</td><td>March 10, 1874</td><td align='right'>148,339</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Shorey, Samuel W.</td><td>March 17, 1874</td><td align='right'>148,765</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, James H.</td><td>March 24, 1874</td><td align='right'>148,902</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Horr, Addison D.</td><td>April 21, 1874</td><td align='right'>149,862</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Page, Chas.</td><td>May 5, 1874</td><td align='right'>150,479</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Crane, Thomas</td><td>May 5, 1874</td><td align='right'>150,532</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Buhr, J.</td><td>May 26, 1874</td><td align='right'>151,272</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smyth, D. M.</td><td>June 9, 1874</td><td align='right'>151,801</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wensley, James</td><td>June 16, 1874</td><td align='right'>152,055</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dinsmore, A. S., and Carter, John T.</td><td><a name="corr_8" id="corr_8"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: Jan.">June</ins> 30, 1874</td><td align='right'>152,618</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Speirs, J.</td><td>July 7, 1874</td><td align='right'>152,813</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Brewer, A. G.</td><td>July 14, 1874</td><td align='right'>152,894</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Baglin, Wm.</td><td>Aug. 18, 1874</td><td align='right'>154,113</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Howard, E. L.</td><td>Aug. 25, 1874</td><td align='right'>154,485</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Landfear, Wm. R.</td><td>Sept. 22, 1874</td><td align='right'>155,193</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Drake, Ellis</td><td>Oct. 13, 1874</td><td align='right'>155,932</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Barney, Samuel C.</td><td>Oct. 20, 1874</td><td align='right'>156,119</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Moreau, Eugene</td><td>Oct. 20, 1874</td><td align='right'>156,171</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Huntington, Thomas S.</td><td>Dec. 29, 1874</td><td align='right'>158,214</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bartlett and Plant</td><td>Jan. 26, 1875</td><td align='right'>159,065</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Garland, H. P.</td><td>Feb. 16, 1875</td><td align='right'>159,812</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dinsmore, Alfred S.</td><td>March 9, 1875</td><td align='right'>160,512</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCloskey, John</td><td>March 30, 1875</td><td align='right'>161,534</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Schmidt, Albert E.</td><td>April 27, 1875</td><td align='right'>162,697</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Darling &amp; Darling</td><td>May 25, 1875</td><td align='right'>163,639</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Richardson, Everett P.</td><td>July 13, 1875</td><td align='right'>165,506</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Whitehill, Robert</td><td>July 27, 1875</td><td align='right'>166,172</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Weber, Theodore A.</td><td>Aug. 3, 1875</td><td align='right'>166,236</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Pearson, Wm.</td><td>Aug. 17, 1875</td><td align='right'>166,805</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Beckwith, William G.</td><td>Sept. 7, 1875</td><td align='right'>167,382</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hall, John S.</td><td>Oct. 11, 1875</td><td align='right'>168,637</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Jones, J. T.</td><td>Oct. 26, 1875</td><td align='right'>169,106</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Garland, H. P.</td><td>Oct. 26, 1875</td><td align='right'>169,163</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wormald &amp; Dobson</td><td>Nov. 9, 1875</td><td align='right'>169,881</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rose, R. M.</td><td>Nov. 30, 1875</td><td align='right'>170,596</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keith, Jeremiah</td><td>Dec. 7, 1875</td><td align='right'>170,741</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keith, T. K.</td><td>Dec. 14, 1875</td><td align='right'>170,955</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Leavitte, Albert</td><td>Dec. 14, 1875</td><td align='right'>171,147</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Toll, Charles F.</td><td>Dec. 14, 1875</td><td align='right'>171,193</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keats, Greenwood, &amp; Keats</td><td>Dec. 28, 1875</td><td align='right'>171,622<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td> Thayer, Augustus</td><td>Jan. 11, 1876</td><td align='right'>172,205</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Frese, B.</td><td>Jan. 18, 1876</td><td align='right'>172,308</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Pearson, William</td><td>Jan. 18, 1876</td><td align='right'>172,478</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sawyer &amp; Esty</td><td>Feb. 29, 1876</td><td align='right'>174,159</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Porter &amp; Baker</td><td>March 14, 1876</td><td align='right'>174,703</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Walker, William</td><td>April 11, 1876</td><td align='right'>176,101</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Upson, L. A.</td><td>April 18, 1876</td><td align='right'>176,153</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Witherspoon, S. A.</td><td>April 18, 1876</td><td align='right'>176,211</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rice, T. M.</td><td>April 25, 1876</td><td align='right'>176,686</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Murphy, E.</td><td>May 2, 1876</td><td align='right'>176,880</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bradford, E. F., and Pierce, V. R.</td><td>May 16, 1876</td><td align='right'>177,371</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Applegate &amp; Webb</td><td>May 25, 1876</td><td align='right'>177,784</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sullivan, John J.</td><td>June 27, 1876</td><td align='right'>179,232</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Appleton, C. J., and Sibley, J. J.</td><td>July 4, 1876</td><td align='right'>179,440</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Marin, Chas.</td><td>July 11, 1876</td><td align='right'>179,709</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gullransen, P. E., and Rettinger, J. C.</td><td>July 25, 1876</td><td align='right'>180,225</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Butcher, Joseph</td><td>Aug. 1, 1876</td><td align='right'>180,542</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Jackson, William</td><td>Sept. 5, 1876</td><td align='right'>181,941</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Barton, Kate C.</td><td>Sept. 12, 1876</td><td align='right'>182,096</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Eickemeyer, Rudolf</td><td>Sept. 12, 1876</td><td align='right'>182,182</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Webster, W.</td><td>Sept. 12, 1876</td><td align='right'>182,249</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Knoch, C. F.</td><td>Oct. 17, 1876</td><td align='right'>183,400</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cushman, C. S.</td><td>Nov. 21, 1876</td><td align='right'>184,594</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Harris, David</td><td>Dec. 12, 1876</td><td align='right'>185,228</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wood, J.</td><td>Dec. 26, 1876</td><td align='right'>185,811</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Oram, Henry</td><td>Jan. 2, 1877</td><td align='right'>185,952</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Palmer, Frank L.</td><td>Jan. 2, 1877</td><td align='right'>185,954</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hall, John S.</td><td>Feb. 6, 1877</td><td align='right'>187,006</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Palmateer, William A.</td><td>Feb. 20, 1877</td><td align='right'>187,479</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cummins, William G.</td><td>Feb. 27, 1877</td><td align='right'>187,822</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Esty, William</td><td>Feb. 27, 1877</td><td align='right'>187,837</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Leavitt &amp; Drew</td><td>Feb. 27, 1877</td><td align='right'>187,874</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Henriksen, H. P.</td><td>March 20, 1877</td><td align='right'>188,515</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McKay, Gordon</td><td>March 27, 1877</td><td align='right'>188,809</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Follett, J. L.</td><td>April 10, 1877</td><td align='right'>189,446</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bond, James, Jr.</td><td>April 17, 1877</td><td align='right'>189,599</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Jacob, F.</td><td>April 24, 1877</td><td align='right'>190,047</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Beck, A.</td><td>May 1, 1877</td><td align='right'>190,184</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hallett, H. H.</td><td>June 5, 1877</td><td align='right'>191,584</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Randel, William</td><td>June 12, 1877</td><td align='right'>192,008</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Corbett, E., and Harlow, C. F.</td><td>July 3, 1877</td><td align='right'>192,568</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Brown, F. H.</td><td>July 24, 1877</td><td align='right'>193,477</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Melhuish, R. M.</td><td>Aug. 28, 1877</td><td align='right'>194,610</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Atwood, K. C.</td><td>Sept. 4, 1877</td><td align='right'>194,759</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Macaulay, F. A.</td><td>Oct. 9, 1877</td><td align='right'>195,939</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dimond, George H.</td><td>Oct. 16, 1877</td><td align='right'>196,198</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Sedmihradsky, A. J.</td><td>Oct. 23, 1877</td><td align='right'>196,486</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keith, J.</td><td>Nov. 6, 1877</td><td align='right'>196,809</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Beck, August</td><td>Nov. 6, 1877</td><td align='right'>196,863</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keith, T. H.</td><td>Nov. 6, 1877</td><td align='right'>196,909</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keats, John</td><td>Dec. 11, 1877</td><td align='right'>198,120</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Briggs, Thomas</td><td>Jan. 1, 1878</td><td align='right'>198,790</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Corey, J. W.</td><td>Jan. 8, 1878</td><td align='right'>198,970</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Howard, T. S. L.</td><td>Jan. 15, 1878</td><td align='right'>199,206</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bosworth, C. F.</td><td>Jan. 22, 1878</td><td align='right'>199,500</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dancel, C.</td><td>Jan. 29, 1878</td><td align='right'>199,802</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Pearson, M. H.</td><td>Feb. 5, 1878</td><td align='right'>199,991</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Morrell, Robert W.; Parkinson, Thomas; and Parkinson, Joseph</td><td>April 23, 1878</td><td align='right'>202,857</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Barcellos, D.</td><td>April 30, 1878</td><td align='right'>203,102</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Elderfield, F. D.</td><td>June 4, 1878</td><td align='right'>204,429</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Heberling, J.</td><td>June 4, 1878</td><td align='right'>204,604</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Beukler, William</td><td>June 11, 1878</td><td align='right'>204,704</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Varicas, L.</td><td>June 11, 1878</td><td align='right'>204,864</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stewart, W. T.</td><td>July 2, 1878</td><td align='right'>205,698</td></tr>
+<tr><td> House, Jas. A.</td><td>July 23, 1878</td><td align='right'>206,239</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Martin, W., Jr.; Dawson, D. R.; and Orchar, R.</td><td>Aug. 6, 1878</td><td align='right'>206,743</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Conklin, N. A.</td><td>Aug. 6, 1878</td><td align='right'>206,774</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wollenberg, H., and Priesner, J.</td><td>Aug. 6, 1878</td><td align='right'>206,848</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Young, E. S., and Dimond, G. H.</td><td>Aug. 13, 1878</td><td align='right'>206,992</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hoffman, Clara P., and Meyers, Nicholas</td><td>Aug. 13, 1878</td><td align='right'>207,035</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wensley, Jas.</td><td>Aug. 20, 1878</td><td align='right'>207,230</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dimond, G. H.</td><td>Aug. 27, 1878</td><td align='right'>207,400</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Steward, A.</td><td>Aug. 27, 1878</td><td align='right'>207,454</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wood, Richard G.</td><td>Sept. 10, 1878</td><td align='right'>207,928</td></tr>
+<tr><td> McCombs, Geo. F.</td><td>Sept. 24, 1878</td><td align='right'>208,407</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keith, Jeremiah</td><td>Oct. 22, 1878</td><td align='right'>209,126</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wells, W. W.</td><td>Nov. 12, 1878</td><td align='right'>209,843</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bayley, C. H.</td><td>Feb. 11, 1879</td><td align='right'>212,122</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Parmenter, Charles O.</td><td>Feb. 18, 1879</td><td align='right'>212,495</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Ingalls, N., Jr.</td><td>Feb. 25, 1879</td><td align='right'>212,602</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cleminshaw, S.</td><td>March 18, 1879</td><td align='right'>213,391</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Webb, T., and Heartfield, C. H.</td><td>March 25, 1879</td><td align='right'>213,537</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Borton, Stockton</td><td>April 8, 1879</td><td align='right'>214,089</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Henriksen, H. P.</td><td>May 20, 1879</td><td align='right'>215,615</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bland, Henry</td><td>June 3, 1879</td><td align='right'>216,016</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Morrison, T. W.</td><td>June 10, 1879</td><td align='right'>216,289</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bosworth, Charles F.</td><td>June 17, 1879</td><td align='right'>216,504</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Simmons, Frederick</td><td>June 24, 1879</td><td align='right'>216,902</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Junker, Carl</td><td>July 1, 1879</td><td align='right'>217,112</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Legat, D&eacute;sir&eacute; Mathurin</td><td>Aug. 12, 1879</td><td align='right'>218,388</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Willcox, C. H.</td><td>Aug. 12, 1879</td><td align='right'>218,413</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cornely, Emile</td><td>Sept. 2, 1879</td><td align='right'>219,225<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hamm, E.</td><td>Sept. 16, 1879</td><td align='right'>219,578</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Tuttle, J. W., and Keith, T. K.</td><td>Sept. 16, 1879</td><td align='right'>219,782</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stackpole, G., and Applegate, J. H.</td><td>Oct. 7, 1879</td><td align='right'>220,314</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Otis, S. L.</td><td>Oct. 28, 1879</td><td align='right'>221,093</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bland, H.</td><td>Nov. 11, 1879</td><td align='right'>221,505</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bracher, T. W.</td><td>Nov. 11,1879</td><td align='right'>221,508</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Snediker, J. F.</td><td>Nov. 25, 1879</td><td align='right'>222,089</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Mooney, J. H.</td><td>Dec. 2, 1879</td><td align='right'>222,298</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Osborne, J. H.</td><td>Feb. 3, 1880</td><td align='right'>224,219</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smith, W. M.</td><td>March 2, 1880</td><td align='right'>225,199</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Banks, C. M.</td><td>March 23, 1880</td><td align='right'>225,784</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Haberling, J.</td><td>May 4, 1880</td><td align='right'>227,249</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Haberling, J.</td><td>May 11, 1880</td><td align='right'>227,525</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wiseman, Edmund</td><td>June 8, 1880</td><td align='right'>228,711</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Juengst, George</td><td>June 15, 1880</td><td align='right'>228,820</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Morley, J. H.</td><td>June 15, 1880</td><td align='right'>228,918</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Curtis, G. H. W.</td><td>June 22, 1880</td><td align='right'>228,985</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lipe, C. E.</td><td>June 29, 1880</td><td align='right'>229,322</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Miller, L. B., and Diehl, P.</td><td>July 6, 1880</td><td align='right'>229,629</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Willcox, C. H.</td><td>July 20, 1880</td><td align='right'>230,212</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Shaw, E.</td><td>July 27, 1880</td><td align='right'>230,580</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dinsmore, A. S.</td><td>Aug. 17, 1880</td><td align='right'>231,155</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Thurston, C. H.</td><td>Oct. 12, 1880</td><td align='right'>231,300</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Butcher, J.</td><td>Oct. 26, 1880</td><td align='right'>233,657</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Smyth, D. M.</td><td>Nov. 23, 1880</td><td align='right'>234,732</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hesse, J.</td><td>Dec. 7, 1880</td><td align='right'>235,085</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Kjalman, H. N.</td><td>Dec. 21, 1880</td><td align='right'>235,783</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Morley, J. H.</td><td>Jan. 4, 1881</td><td align='right'>236,350</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Thomas, J.</td><td>Jan. 11, 1881</td><td align='right'>236,466</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Benson, G.</td><td>March 8, 1881</td><td align='right'>238,556</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Green, G. F.</td><td>March 8, 1881</td><td align='right'>238,678</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Eickemeyer, Rudolf</td><td>March 29, 1881</td><td align='right'>239,319</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Palmer, C. H.</td><td>April 26, 1881</td><td align='right'>240,758</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Campbell, D. H.</td><td>May 17, 1881</td><td align='right'>241,612</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Campbell, Duncan H.</td><td>May 17, 1881</td><td align='right'>241,613</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Leslie, A. M.</td><td>May 24, 1881</td><td align='right'>241,808</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Newell, George F.</td><td>June 7, 1881</td><td align='right'>242,470</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gritzner, Max C.</td><td>June 28, 1881</td><td align='right'>243,444</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keith, Jeremiah</td><td>July 5, 1881</td><td align='right'>243,710</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Choquette, A. E.</td><td>July 12, 1881</td><td align='right'>244,033</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Mooney, J. H.</td><td>July 19, 1881</td><td align='right'>244,470</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Beardslee, W. F.</td><td>Aug. 16, 1881</td><td align='right'>245,781</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hine, Charlie M.</td><td>Aug. 23, 1881</td><td align='right'>246,136</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Willcox, C. H.</td><td>Sept. 6, 1881</td><td align='right'>246,700</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hoefler, J.</td><td>Sept. 13, 1881</td><td align='right'>246,883</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Woodward, E.</td><td>Sept. 20, 1881</td><td align='right'>247,285</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Richards, Jean E.</td><td>Jan. 24, 1882</td><td align='right'>252,799</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Abbott, W. W.</td><td>Jan. 31, 1882</td><td align='right'>252,984</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Secor, J. B.</td><td>Feb. 14, 1882</td><td align='right'>253,772</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Deschamps, O. L.</td><td>Feb. 21, 1882</td><td align='right'>253,915</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hull, E. H.</td><td>Feb. 28, 1882</td><td align='right'>254,217</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Roberts, William</td><td>March 7, 1882</td><td align='right'>254,696</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Willcox and Borton</td><td>March 28, 1882</td><td align='right'>255,576</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Borton and Willcox</td><td>March 28, 1882</td><td align='right'>255,577</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Borton and Willcox</td><td>March 28, 1882</td><td align='right'>255,580</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Borton and Willcox</td><td>March 28, 1882</td><td align='right'>255,581</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Veukler, W.</td><td>April 4, 1882</td><td align='right'>255,916</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hurtu, A. J.</td><td>May 30, 1882</td><td align='right'>258,761</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Keats, Alphonso</td><td>July 11, 1882</td><td align='right'>260,990</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Ramsden, John W.</td><td>Aug. 1, 1882</td><td align='right'>262,116</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Koch, William</td><td>Aug. 8, 1882</td><td align='right'>262,298</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bigelow, J.</td><td>Aug. 29, 1882</td><td align='right'>263,467</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Mills, Daniel</td><td>Oct. 10, 1882</td><td align='right'>265,850</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wilkinson, Charles E.</td><td>Dec. 19, 1882</td><td align='right'>269,251</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Carlisle, W. S.</td><td>Jan. 9, 1883</td><td align='right'>270,540</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Holden, O. J., and Griswold, L.</td><td>Feb. 13, 1883</td><td align='right'>272,050</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cameron, James W.</td><td>Feb. 20, 1883</td><td align='right'>272,527</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Miller, L. B., and Diehl, P.</td><td>March 20, 1883</td><td align='right'>274,359</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Ludeke, W.</td><td>April 10, 1883</td><td align='right'>275,506</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bolton, J., and Petnz, A. D.</td><td>May 8, 1883</td><td align='right'>277,106</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Blodgett, John W.</td><td>June 12, 1883</td><td align='right'>279,320</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Haberling, J.</td><td>Sept. 4, 1883</td><td align='right'>284,300</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Thimonnier, E., and Vernaz, C.</td><td>Oct. 30, 1883</td><td align='right'>287,592</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Duchemin, William</td><td>Nov. 20, 1883</td><td align='right'>288,929</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lawrence, G. H.</td><td>Dec. 25, 1883</td><td align='right'>290,895</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Clever, Peter J.</td><td>April 8, 1884</td><td align='right'>296,529</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Palmer, John H.</td><td>May 6, 1884</td><td align='right'>298,228</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dowling, James, and Connolly, John</td><td>May 27, 1884</td><td align='right'>299,118</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Boecher, Adam</td><td>June 10, 1884</td><td align='right'>300,199</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Luedeke, Waldemar</td><td>June 17, 1884</td><td align='right'>300,380</td></tr>
+<tr><td> VanVechten, Orville R.</td><td>July 15, 1884</td><td align='right'>302,063</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Carr, Wm. H., and Ostrom, F. W.</td><td>Aug. 12, 1884</td><td align='right'>303,361</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Trip, J.</td><td>Dec. 2, 1884</td><td align='right'>308,711</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Farrar, Arthur</td><td>Dec. 30, 1884</td><td align='right'>309,837</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Turner, M. G.</td><td>Feb. 17, 1885</td><td align='right'>312,306</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Mills, D.</td><td>March 3, 1885</td><td align='right'>313,359</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hurtu, August J.</td><td>April 7, 1885</td><td align='right'>315,037</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Charmbury, Henry</td><td>April 28, 1885</td><td align='right'>316,745</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Woodward &amp; Keith</td><td>April 28, 1885</td><td align='right'>316,927</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Walker, William</td><td>June 16, 1885</td><td align='right'>320,099</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Tucker, R. D.</td><td>June 23, 1885</td><td align='right'>320,898</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wheeler and Dial</td><td>Oct. 13, 1885</td><td align='right'>328,165</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Thomas, Joseph</td><td>Nov. 10, 1885</td><td align='right'>330,170</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Muegge, C. A.</td><td>Dec. 8, 1885</td><td align='right'>332,207</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Diehl, P.</td><td>April 13, 1886</td><td align='right'>339,623</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Diehl, P.</td><td>Aug. 24, 1886</td><td align='right'>347,776<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td> Helwig, Arthur</td><td>Oct. 5, 1886</td><td align='right'>350,364</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Miehling, Charles</td><td>Nov. 2, 1886</td><td align='right'>351,992</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dieterle, H. E.</td><td>Nov. 30, 1886</td><td align='right'>353,542</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Walker, William</td><td>Dec. 7, 1886</td><td align='right'>353,720</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rosenthal, S. A.</td><td>Dec. 7, 1886</td><td align='right'>353,970</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Temple, John</td><td>Feb. 22, 1887</td><td align='right'>358,088</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Gee, W. V.</td><td>April 19, 1887</td><td align='right'>361,406</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lingley, John W.</td><td>Aug. 16, 1887</td><td align='right'>368,538</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Boppel, Jacob</td><td>Jan. 29, 1889</td><td align='right'>396,979</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Webster, William</td><td>April 30, 1889</td><td align='right'>402,497</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Osterhout and Hallenbeck</td><td>May 7, 1889</td><td align='right'>402,610</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bennett and Dowling</td><td>Aug. 27, 1889</td><td align='right'>409,728</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hine, Charles M.</td><td>Jan. 28, 1890</td><td align='right'>420,382</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Wheeler, Nathaniel</td><td>Feb. 4, 1890</td><td align='right'>420,847</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Hallenbeck, J. P.</td><td>April 8, 1890</td><td align='right'>425,422</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Lisle, Myron C.</td><td>May 20, 1890</td><td align='right'>428,171</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Walker and Bennet</td><td>May 20, 1890</td><td align='right'>428,548</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Stewart, James, Jr.</td><td>July 15, 1890</td><td align='right'>432,449</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Dewees, J. W.</td><td>July 22, 1890</td><td align='right'>432,746</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Powell, Thomas</td><td>Dec. 16, 1890</td><td align='right'>442,695</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Fletcher, James H.</td><td>Dec. 30, 1890</td><td align='right'>443,756</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Rudolph, Ernst B., deceased,  Boulter, W. E., administrator</td><td>April 7, 1891</td><td align='right'>449,927</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Goodwin, Julius C.</td><td>April 21, 1891</td><td align='right'>450,793</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Cook, Hugo</td><td>June 23, 1891</td><td align='right'>454,610</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Bowyer, J. T.</td><td>June 23, 1891</td><td align='right'>454,708</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Willcox, C. H., and Borton, S.</td><td>April 5, 1892</td><td align='right'>472,094</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Legg and Weston</td><td>May 17, 1892</td><td align='right'>474,840</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Kern, Ferdinand</td><td>July 19, 1892</td><td align='right'>479,369</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Jackson, Francis</td><td>May 1, 1894</td><td align='right'>519,064</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Charles Abercrombi</td><td>June 5, 1892</td><td align='right'>520,977</td></tr>
+<tr><td> Taft, J. C.</td><td>Oct. 15, 1895</td><td align='right'>547,866</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span></p>
+<h3 class="apphead">IV. 19th-Century Sewing-Machine Leaflets in the Smithsonian Collections</h3>
+
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td><i>Machine or Manufacturer</i></td><td><i>Date</i></td><td><i>Type</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td>American B.H.O. and Sewing Machine</td><td>1874</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Buckeye sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1870</td><td>Illustrated, directions for using the machine</td></tr>
+<tr><td>New Buckeye</td><td>ca. 1872</td><td>Illustrated, directions for using the machine</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Centennial sewing machine</td><td>1876</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Domestic sewing machine</td><td>1872</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Florence sewing machine</td><td>1873</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Florence sewing machine</td><td>1878</td><td>Illustrated, directions for using the machine</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Goodes sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1876</td><td>Advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Grant Brothers sewing machine</td><td>1867</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet (Xerox copy)</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Grover and Baker sewing machine</td><td>1853</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Grover and Baker sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1870</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Home sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1870</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Howe sewing machine, new &ldquo;B&rdquo; machine</td><td>1868</td><td>Illustrated, instruction booklet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Howe sewing machine</td><td>1876</td><td>Illustrated, catalog of machines</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Independent Noiseless sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1874</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Ladd, Webster sewing machine</td><td>1861</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Little Monitor sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1872</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Remington Family sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1874</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Shaw and Clark sewing machine</td><td>1864</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Singer sewing machine</td><td>1871</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Singer sewing machine</td><td>1893</td><td>Catalog of machines shown at the Columbian Exposition</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Standard Shuttle sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1875</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Ten Dollar Novelty sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1870</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Weed sewing machine</td><td>1873</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1869</td><td>Illustrated, instruction booklet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine</td><td>ca. 1870-1875</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Wheeler and Wilson no. 8 machine</td><td>ca. 1878</td><td>Illustrated, instruction booklet</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Wilson sewing machine</td><td>1872</td><td>Illustrated, advertising leaflet</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span></p>
+<h3 class="apphead">V. A Brief History of Cotton Thread</h3>
+
+
+<p>Although Samuel Slater&rsquo;s wife is credited with making the first cotton
+sewing thread from yarns spun at the Pawtucket, Rhode Island, mill in
+about 1794, cotton thread did not become a manufactured item at that
+time. Slater turned all his interests to producing cotton-twist yarns
+needed for the warps of cotton fabrics. By 1809, however, the agents of
+Almy and Brown, partners and distributors for Slater, were advertising
+cotton thread as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Factory Cotton and Thread Store, No. 26 Court Street opposite
+Concert Hall. George Connell, Agent for Almy and Brown of
+Providence and Pawtucket Manufactories, has now for sale from eight
+to ten thousand weight of yarn, for weaving ... five hundred pounds
+cotton thread, in hanks, from No. 12 to 60 of a superior quality
+and very white.<a name="FNanchor_B_92" id="FNanchor_B_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_92" class="fnanchor">[91]</a></p></div>
+
+<p>Although it was a short hop from the spinning of cotton warps to the
+twisting of these cotton yarns to form a sewing thread, the general
+manufacture of cotton thread as an industry did not originate in the
+United States but rather in Scotland in the early 19th century.
+Napoleon&rsquo;s blockade, which curtailed Great Britain&rsquo;s importation of
+silk&mdash;needed not only for fabrics but also for making heddle strings for
+the looms&mdash;stimulated the production of cotton thread there. James and
+Patrick Clark, in desperation, attempted to substitute cotton for silk
+in their manufacture of these heddle strings. When they were successful,
+they considered that if cotton could be used successfully for this
+purpose it could also be made suitable for sewing thread. In 1812 they
+built a factory in Paisley, Scotland, which had long been noted for its
+textile industries. The thread was sold in hanks. About 1820 James&rsquo;
+sons, James and John, who were now running J. &amp; J. Clark &amp; Co., began to
+wind the thread on spools. For this service they charged an extra
+halfpenny, which was refunded when the empty spool was returned. The
+thread was usually a three-ply or so-called three-cord thread.</p>
+
+<p>About 1815 James Coats, also of Paisley, started manufacturing thread at
+Ferguslie, Scotland. His two sons took over the company in 1826 and
+formed the J. &amp; P. Coats Company. Another brother, Andrew Coats, became
+the selling agent in the United States about 1840. But the cotton-thread
+industry was not fully launched.</p>
+
+<p>As reported in an 1853 <i>Scientific American</i>, there was &ldquo;more American
+thread made ten years ago than there is today.&rdquo;<a name="FNanchor_C_93" id="FNanchor_C_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_93" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> It was not until the
+six-cord cabled cotton thread, which was suitable for both machine and
+hand sewing, was perfected that the industry progressed into full
+operation.</p>
+<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="fnheader">FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_92" id="Footnote_B_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_92"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> William R. Bagnall, <i>Textile Industries of the United
+States</i> (Cambridge, Mass., 1893), vol. 1, p. 164.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_93" id="Footnote_C_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_93"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> <i>Scientific American</i> (Oct. 22, 1853), vol. 9, no. 6, p.
+46.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 class="apphead">VI. Biographical Sketches</h3>
+
+
+<h4>BARTHELEMY THIMONNIER</h4>
+
+<p>The first man known to have put a sewing machine into practical
+operation, Barthelemy Thimonnier, was a Frenchman of obscure parentage.
+His father, a textile dyer of Lyon, left that city in 1793 as a result
+of the Revolution and journeyed with his family to l&rsquo;Arbresle where
+Barthelemy was born in August of that year.</p>
+
+<p>The family resources were small, and, although the young Thimonnier was
+able to begin studies at the Seminaire de Saint-Jean at Lyons, he soon
+was forced to leave school for financial reasons and return to his home,
+then at Amplepuis. There he learned the tailoring trade and by 1813 was
+fairly well established in his own shop.</p>
+
+<p>At that time many of the town&rsquo;s inhabitants were weavers and almost
+every house possessed one or two looms. The noise of the shuttle echoed
+from these family workshops. Thimonnier noted the relatively small
+amount of time needed to weave a fabric compared with the slow
+painstaking task of sewing a garment by passing the needle in and out
+for each stitch of each seam. When his mind began to dwell on the idea
+of producing a machine to do this stitching, another of the town&rsquo;s
+occupations supplied him with a clue and an additional incentive. This
+village industry produced a type of embroidery work called <i>point de
+chainette</i>, in which a needle with a small hook was used to form the
+chainstitch, a popular type of decorative stitch long used in countries
+all over the world. It was Thimonnier&rsquo;s plan to use this type of hooked
+needle and produce the stitch by machine, employing it both as a
+decorative stitch and a seam-forming one.</p>
+
+<p>In 1825 Thimonnier moved to St. Etienne, where he became completely
+absorbed in the idea of inventing a sewing machine. Ignorant of any of
+the principles of mechanics, he worked alone and in secret for four
+years, neglecting his tailoring business to the extent that neighbors
+looked upon him as peculiar, if not crazy. By 1829 he had not only
+mastered the mechanical difficulties of bringing his dream to
+realization, but also had made the acquaintance of the man who helped
+him to success. Ferrand, of l&rsquo;Ecole des Mines of Saint-Etienne, became
+interested in the machine and helped finance Thimonnier through his
+trials and disappointments. In 1830 Thimonnier received a patent on his
+machine, which produced the chainstitch by means of a needle shaped like
+a small crochet hook.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width:300px;"><a name="fig_133" id="fig_133"></a>
+<img src="images/i251.png" width="300" height="330" alt="Figure 133." title="Figure 133." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 133.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Barthelemy Thimonnier</span>, 1793-1857. From an
+engraving in the <i>Sewing Machine Advance</i>, November 15, 1880.
+(Smithsonian photo 10569-A.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Thimonnier, together with Ferrand and a M. Beaunier, made attempts to
+introduce his machine in Paris. By 1841 they were successful in having
+eighty of Thimonnier&rsquo;s machines in use sewing army clothing in a shop in
+Paris. But the fears of the tailors could not be quieted. The machines
+were destroyed by an ignorant and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> infuriated mob, as had been earlier
+labor-saving devices such as the Jacquard attachment for the loom and
+Hargreaves&rsquo; spinning jenny. Thimonnier was forced to flee to his home in
+St. Etienne, once more penniless.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after this, Jean Marie Magnin, an engineer from
+<a name="corr_9" id="corr_9"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: Ville-franche">Villefranche</ins>
+-sur-Sa&ocirc;ne became interested in Thimonnier&rsquo;s machine and
+provided the inventor again with financial backing. In 1845 under the
+name of Thimonnier and Magnin the patent of 1830 was renewed, and under
+it they organized the first French sewing-machine company. The machines
+they manufactured could produce 200 stitches per minute.</p>
+
+<p>The Revolution of 1848 curtailed the manufacture and sale of the
+machines. Thimonnier, remembering his unpleasant experience in 1841,
+decided to go to England with Magnin, where, on February 8, 1848, they
+received the English patent for his chainstitch machine. He was also
+granted United States patent 7,622 on September 20, 1850. This later
+machine had some advantages over his French machine of 1830, but by this
+time other inventors had joined the field with machines that were more
+practical. Magnin entered a sewing machine (which from the description
+in the catalog must have been Thimonnier&rsquo;s invention) in the Crystal
+Palace Exhibition in London in 1850, but because it was late in arriving
+it was overlooked by the judges and not even considered in the
+competition. Thimonnier died in poverty at Amplepuis on July 5, 1857.</p>
+
+
+<h4>WALTER HUNT</h4>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width:300px;"><a name="fig_134" id="fig_134"></a>
+<img src="images/i253.png" width="300" height="444" alt="Figure 134." title="Figure 134." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 134.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Walter Hunt</span>, 1796-1860. From a daguerreotype
+owned by his great-grandson, C. N. Hunt. (Smithsonian photo 32066-A.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Walter Hunt was born near Martinsburg, New York, on July 29, 1796.
+Although little is known of Hunt&rsquo;s early childhood, we do learn from the
+author of his obituary, which appeared in <i>Scientific American</i>, July 9,
+1860, that even as a child he was more interested in people and what he
+could do for them than in what he could do to insure his own welfare. He
+is said to have devoted his life to his friends, frequently giving away
+his last cent when he did not have enough to provide for himself.</p>
+
+<p>There is no record that Hunt maintained a regular business other than
+the occupation of inventor. His interests were numerous and varied. He
+received his first patent on June 26, 1826, for a machine for spinning
+flax and hemp. During the next 33 years he patented 26 ideas. In
+addition he sold or dropped several more. His second patent was for a
+coach alarm, and through the years he also received patents for a
+variety of things including a knife sharpener, heating stove, ice boat,
+nail machine, inkwell, fountain pen, safety pin, bottle stopper, sewing
+machine (1854), paper collars, and a reversible metallic heel.</p>
+
+
+
+<h4>ELIAS HOWE, JR.</h4>
+
+<p>Elias Howe, Jr., was born on his father&rsquo;s farm in Spencer,
+Massachusetts, on July 9, 1819. This was one of those barren New England
+farms with many rock-filled acres. All possible ingenuity was necessary
+to secure a living. The elder Howe supplemented his farming by having a
+small gristmill, a sawmill, and also by manufacturing cards for the
+fast-growing cotton industry of New England. Elias Jr.&rsquo;s earliest
+recollections were of the latter. He worked with his brothers and
+sisters sticking wire teeth into strips of leather to make these cotton
+cards, but, not being very good at this, his family decided to let him
+&ldquo;live out&rdquo; with a neighboring farmer. (Children were leased in those
+days; they received their board and keep in exchange for chores they
+would perform.) After a few years, Elias returned home and worked in his
+father&rsquo;s mill until he was sixteen. Then, against the wishes of his
+family, he went to Lowell, Massachusetts. Here, he obtained a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> learner&rsquo;s
+place in a machine shop where cotton-spinning machinery was made and
+repaired.</p>
+
+<p>In 1837, when a financial panic hit the country, Howe lost his job. He
+then decided to go to Boston, and this marked a turning point in his
+career. In Boston he met Ari Davis, a maker of mariners&rsquo; instruments and
+scientific apparatus. Howe began to work in Davis&rsquo; shop, a place to
+which inventors often came to ask advice about their ideas. Davis
+sometimes helped them, but just as often he shouted at them in anger&mdash;he
+is said to have been one of the noisiest men in Boston. One day Howe
+overheard his employer bellowing at a man who had brought a knitting
+machine to the shop to seek Davis&rsquo; advice. &ldquo;Why are you wasting your
+time over a knitting machine?&rdquo; said Davis, &ldquo;Take my advice, try
+something that will pay. Make a sewing machine.&rdquo; &ldquo;It can&rsquo;t be done,&rdquo; was
+the reply. &ldquo;Can&rsquo;t be done?&rdquo; shouted Davis, &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t tell me that. Why&mdash;I
+can make a sewing machine myself.&rdquo; &ldquo;If you do,&rdquo; interrupted the
+capitalist, &ldquo;I can make an independent fortune for you.&rdquo; Davis, like
+most men of many words, often talked of more than he planned to do. He
+never attempted to invent a sewing machine.</p>
+
+<p>But the loud voices interested Howe, who, it is said, determined then
+that he would produce a sewing machine and win the fortune that the
+prosperous-looking man had asserted was waiting for such a deed. A kind
+of lameness since birth had made physical tasks painful for Howe, and he
+perhaps felt that this would offer an opportunity to become independent
+of hard physical work.</p>
+
+<p>After marrying on a journeyman machinist&rsquo;s pay of $9 a week, Howe&rsquo;s
+health worsened and by 1843 was so bad that he had to stop work for days
+at a time. His wife was forced to take in sewing to maintain the family.
+It was the sight of his wife toiling at her stitches together with the
+pressure of poverty that recalled to Howe his earlier interest in a
+machine to sew. He decided to make an earnest attempt to invent one.
+Watching his wife for hours at a time, he tried to visualize a machine
+that would duplicate the motions of the arm. After many trials, he
+conceived the idea of using an eye-pointed needle in combination with a
+shuttle to form a stitch. It is possible that, as some authors state,
+the solution appeared to him in a dream, a manifestation of the
+subconscious at work. Others have suggested that he may have learned of
+Hunt&rsquo;s machine. There is a general similarity in the two, not only in
+the combination of eye-pointed needle and shuttle but in the overhanging
+arm and vertical cloth suspension.</p>
+
+<p>After conceiving the idea, whatever his inspiration, Howe determined to
+devote all of his time to producing a working model of his machine.
+Elias&rsquo; father, who had then started a factory for splitting palm leaves
+in Cambridge, gave him permission to set up a lathe and a few tools in
+the garret of the factory. Elias moved his family to Cambridge. Soon
+after his arrival, unfortunately, the building burned down, and Howe
+despaired of finding a place to work. He had a friend, however, in
+George Fisher, who had just come into a small inheritance, and Howe
+persuaded him to enter into partnership with him for the development of
+the machine. Fisher agreed to board Howe and his family, which now
+included two children, while Howe completed the model. Fisher also
+agreed to supply $500 for material and tools in exchange for a half
+interest in a patent if one was obtained.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width:300px;"><a name="fig_135" id="fig_135"></a>
+<img src="images/i255.png" width="300" height="363" alt="Figure 135." title="Figure 135." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 135.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Elias Howe, Jr.</span>, 1819-1867. From an oil
+painting in the Smithsonian Institution presented by the inventor&rsquo;s
+grandson, Elias Howe Stockwell. (Smithsonian photo 622.)</p></div>
+
+<p>At long last Howe was able to spend his full time and concentration on
+building his machine. His family was being fed and had a roof over its
+head. Within a few months Howe had completed a model and by April 1845
+had sewed his first seam (see fig. 14). In July of that year he sewed
+all the principal seams of two suits of wool clothes, one for George
+Fisher and one for himself.</p>
+
+<p>Several efforts were made to solicit public interest in the new machine.
+One was installed in a public hall in Boston, and a tailor was employed
+to operate it at three times the regular wage. The reception was similar
+to that of Thimonnier&rsquo;s: crowds came to see the &ldquo;contraption,&rdquo; but, when
+Howe tried to interest large clothing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> establishments in using the
+machine, the protests of the tailors effectively blocked him. He took
+his sewing machine to the Quincy Hall Clothing Manufactory and offered
+to sew up any seams brought to him. Daily he sat in one of the rooms
+demonstrating his machine, and finally he challenged five of the
+swiftest seamstresses there to a race. Ten seams of equal length were
+prepared for stitching. One was given to each of the girls while the
+remaining five were given to Howe. Howe finished his five a little
+sooner than the girls each finished one, and his seams were declared the
+strongest and neatest. (Had any curved or angular work been brought, he
+could not have stitched it.) Still Howe did not receive a single order.
+The fear of throwing hand sewers out of work was again expressed, and,
+in addition, the cost of the machine was said to be too high. When it
+was estimated that a large shirtmaker would have to buy thirty or forty
+such machines, the necessary large investment was dismissed as
+ridiculous.</p>
+
+<p>Howe was not too discouraged. In the meantime, he had finished a second
+machine for deposit with the patent specifications, as the patent laws
+then required. The second was a better made machine (fig. 15) and showed
+several minor changes. As soon as the patent was issued on September 10,
+1846, Howe and his partner returned to Cambridge.</p>
+
+<p>Without the inventor&rsquo;s enthusiasm or love of his own invention, George
+Fisher became thoroughly discouraged. He had boarded Howe and his family
+for nearly two years, had furnished the money needed to purchase the
+tools and materials for making the two sewing machines, had met the
+expense of obtaining the patent and the trip of Howe and himself to
+Washington; representing in all an outlay of practically $2000. Since no
+orders for machines had been received from either garment makers or
+tailors, Fisher did not see the slightest probability of the machine&rsquo;s
+becoming profitable and regarded his advances of cash as a dead loss.</p>
+
+<p>Howe moved back to his father&rsquo;s house with a plan to look elsewhere for
+a chance to introduce the machine. Obtaining a loan from his father, he
+built another machine and sent it to England by his brother Amasa. After
+many discouraging attempts to interest the British, Amasa met William
+Thomas, a manufacturer of umbrellas, corsets, and leather goods. Thomas
+employed many workmen, all of whom stitched by hand, and he immediately
+saw the possibilities of a sewing machine. He proposed that Howe sell
+the machine to him for &pound;250 sterling (about $1250). Thomas further
+proposed to engage the inventor to adapt this machine to the making of
+corsets, at a salary of &pound;3 a week.</p>
+
+<p>When Amasa Howe returned to Cambridge with the news, Elias was reluctant
+to accept Thomas&rsquo; offer but had nothing better in sight. So the brothers
+sailed for London in February 1847, taking with them Howe&rsquo;s first
+machine and his patent papers. Thomas later advanced the passage money
+for Howe&rsquo;s wife and three children so that they could join Howe in
+England.</p>
+
+<p>At this point, historians disagree on how long Howe was in Thomas&rsquo;
+employ and whether he succeeded in adapting the machine to meet Thomas&rsquo;
+needs. He was in England long enough, however, to find himself without
+employment in a strange country, his funds nearly exhausted, and his
+wife ill. He hoped to profit by the notice that his work had received
+and began to build another machine. He sent his family home to reduce
+expenses while he stayed on to finish the machine.</p>
+
+<p>After working on it for three or four months, he was forced to sell it
+for five pounds and to take a note for that. To collect enough for his
+passage home, he sold the note for four pounds cash and pawned his
+precious first machine and his patent papers. He landed in New York in
+April 1849 with but half a crown in his pocket to show for his labors. A
+short time after he arrived, he learned that his wife was desperately
+ill. Only with a loan from his father was he able to reach her side
+before she died. Friends were found to look after the children, and
+Elias returned to work as a journeyman machinist.</p>
+
+<p>Howe discovered, much to his surprise, that during his absence in
+England the sewing machine had become recognized in the United States.
+Several machines made in Boston had been sold to manufacturers and were
+in daily operation. Upon investigating them, he felt that they utilized
+all or part of the invention that he had patented in 1846, and he
+prepared to secure just compensation for its use. The first thing he did
+was to regain his first machine and patent papers from the London
+pawnshop. It was no easy matter for Howe to raise the money, but by
+summer he had managed. It was sent to London with Anson Burlingame, who
+redeemed the loans, and by autumn of the same year the precious
+possessions were back in Howe&rsquo;s hands. Though Howe gained nothing by his
+English experience, William Thomas by his modest expenditure obtained
+all rights to the machine for Great Britain. This later proved to be a
+valuable property.</p>
+
+<p>Howe then began writing letters to those whom he considered patent
+infringers, requesting them to pay a fee or discontinue the manufacture
+of sewing machines which incorporated his patented inventions. Some at
+first were willing to pay the fee, but they were persuaded by the others
+to stand with them and resist Howe. This action forced Howe to the
+courts. With his father&rsquo;s aid he began a suit, but soon found that
+considerably more money than either possessed was necessary for such
+actions. Howe turned once more to George Fisher, but years of investing
+money in Howe&rsquo;s machine without any monetary return had cooled him to
+the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> idea. Fisher, however, agreed to sell his half interest, and in
+February 1851 George S. Jackson, Daniel C. Johnson, and William E.
+Whiting became joint owners with Howe. These men helped Howe to procure
+witnesses in the furtherance of numerous suits, but more money was
+needed than they could raise. The following year a Massachusetts man by
+the name of George W. Bliss was persuaded to advance the money for the
+heavy legal expenses needed to protect the patent. Bliss did this as a
+speculation and demanded additional security. Once more Elias&rsquo;
+long-suffering parent came to the rescue and mortgaged his farm to get
+the necessary collateral.</p>
+
+<p>Only one of these suits was prosecuted to a hearing, but this one,
+relatively unimportant in itself, set the precedent. In it the defense
+relied on the earlier invention of Walter Hunt to oppose Howe&rsquo;s claims.
+The defendant succeeded in proving that Hunt invented, perfected, and
+sold two machines in 1834 and 1835 which contained all the essential
+devices in Howe&rsquo;s machine of 1846. But Howe showed that the defendant&rsquo;s
+machine (which was a Blodgett and Lerow) contained some features of
+Howe&rsquo;s machine which were not in Hunt&rsquo;s. The jury decided the case in
+favor of Howe. Howe later fought a vigorous battle with Isaac Singer,
+but after much legal controversy the ultimate decision in that case also
+was in Howe&rsquo;s favor. The suits and payments to each patent holder for
+the right to use his idea were choking the sewing-machine industry. Even
+Howe could not manufacture a practical machine without an infringement.
+Finally an agreement was reached and a &ldquo;Combination&rdquo; was formed by the
+major patent holders (see pp. 41-42).</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime, eight years of the first term of Howe&rsquo;s patent had
+expired without producing much revenue. This permitted Howe, upon the
+death of his partner, George Bliss, to buy Bliss&rsquo; half interest for a
+small sum. He became, then, the sole owner of his patent just as it was
+to bring him a fortune. He obtained a seven-year extension for his
+patent in 1860 without any difficulty, and in 1867, when he applied for
+another extension, he stated that he had received $1,185,000 from it.
+Though he endeavored to show that because of the machine&rsquo;s great value
+to the public he was entitled to receive at least $150,000,000, the
+second application was denied.</p>
+
+<p>During the Civil War, Howe enlisted as a private soldier in the 17th
+Regiment Connecticut Volunteers. He went into the field and served as an
+enlisted man. On occasion when the Government was pressed for funds to
+pay its soldiers, he advanced the money necessary to pay his entire
+regiment.</p>
+
+<p>Howe did not establish a sewing-machine factory until just before his
+death in 1867. One of his early licensees had been his elder brother,
+Amasa, who had organized the Howe Sewing Machine Company about 1853.
+When Elias began manufacturing machines on his own, he sunk into the
+bedplate of each machine a brass medallion bearing his likeness. Elias
+gave his company the same name that his elder brother had used. As this
+had been Amasa&rsquo;s exclusive property for many years, he took the matter
+to the courts where the decision went against Elias. He then organized
+the Howe Machine Company and began to manufacture sewing machines. On
+October 3, 1867, Elias died in Brooklyn, New York, at the home of one of
+his sons-in-law. The company was then carried on by his two sons-in-law,
+who were Stockwell brothers. In 1872 the Howe Sewing Machine Company was
+sold by Amasa&rsquo;s son to the Stockwells&rsquo; Howe Machine Company, which in
+turn went out of business in the mid-1880s.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ALLEN BENJAMIN WILSON</h4>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width:300px;"><a name="fig_136" id="fig_136"></a>
+<img src="images/i260.png" width="300" height="376" alt="Figure 136." title="Figure 136." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 136.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Allen Benjamin Wilson</span>, 1824-1888. From a
+drawing owned by the Singer Mfg. Co. Formerly, the drawing was owned by
+the Wheeler &amp; Wilson Mfg. Co. (Smithsonian photo 32066.)</p></div>
+
+<p>Allen B. Wilson was born in the small town of Willett, Cortlandt County,
+New York, in 1824. At sixteen he was apprenticed to a distant relative,
+a cabinetmaker. Unfortunate circumstances caused him to leave this
+employ, and in 1847 Wilson was in Adrian, Michigan, working as a
+journeyman cabinetmaker. The place and year are important, for it was at
+this time that he conceived his idea of a sewing machine. Because of the
+distant location, it is believed that he was not aware of similar
+efforts being made in New England. Wilson became ill and for many months
+could not work at his trade. By August 1848 he was able to work again
+and found employment at Pittsfield, Massachusetts. Resolving to develop
+his idea of a sewing machine, he worked diligently and by November had
+made full drawings of all the parts, according to his previous
+conceptions.</p>
+
+<p>In comparison to the monetary returns received by the inventors Howe and
+Singer, Wilson himself did not receive as great a monetary reward for
+his outstanding sewing-machine inventions. Because of his health Wilson
+retired in 1853, when the stock company was formed, but he received a
+regular salary and additional money from the patent renewals. Wilson
+petitioned for a second extension of his patents on April 7, 1874,
+stating that, due to his early poverty, he had been compelled to sell a
+half interest in a patent (his first one) for the sum of $200. Also he
+stated that he had not received more than his expenses during the
+original fourteen-year term. Wilson also stated that he had received
+only $137,000 during the first seven-year extension period. These
+figures were verified by his partner. The petition was read before both
+Houses of Congress and referred to the Committee on Patents.<a name="FNanchor_D_94" id="FNanchor_D_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_D_94" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> There
+was strong feeling against the extension of the Wilson patents. The New
+York <i>Daily Graphic</i>, December 30, 1874, reported:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot" style="clear:both;"><p>So valuable has been this latter four-motion feed that few or no
+cloth-sewing machines are now made without it. The joint ownership
+of this feature of the Wilson patents has served to bind the
+combination of sewing-machine builders together, and enabled them
+to defy competition by force of the monopoly. It is this feature
+which the combination wishes to further monopolize for seven years
+by act of Congress. The inventor has probably realized millions for
+his invention. Singer admits that his patents, which are much less
+important, paid him two millions prior to 1870, since which time he
+has not been compelled to render an account. The Wilson patents
+with their extended terms were worth a much larger sum. They have
+been public property, so far as the feed is concerned, since June
+15, 1873, and will remain so if too great a pressure is not brought
+to bear on Congress for their extension. A monopoly of this feed
+motion for seven years more would be worth from ten to thirty
+millions to the owner&mdash;and would cost the people four times as
+much.</p></div>
+
+<p>Wilson had not made the millions for he only received a small percentage
+of the renewals&rsquo; earnings plus his salary from the patents&rsquo; owner, the
+Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing Company.</p>
+
+<p>The Congressional Committee on Patents made an adverse report in 1874
+and again in 1875 and 1876, when applications for an extension were
+continued</p>
+
+<p>Wilson died on April 29, 1888.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ISAAC MERRITT SINGER</h4>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width:300px;"><a name="fig_137" id="fig_137"></a>
+<img src="images/i261.png" width="300" height="349" alt="Figure 137." title="Figure 137." />
+<p class="caption">Figure 137.&mdash;- <span class="smcap">Isaac Merritt Singer</span>, 1811-1875. From a
+charcoal drawing owned by the Singer Mfg. Co. (Smithsonian photo
+32066-B)</p></div>
+
+<p>Isaac Singer, whose name is known around the world as a manufacturer of
+sewing machines, was the eighth child of poor German immigrants. Isaac
+was born on October 27, 1811, in Pittstown, New York, but most of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> his
+early life was spent in Oswego. He worked as a mechanic and
+cabinetmaker, but acquired an interest in the theater. Under the name of
+Isaac Merritt, he went to Rochester and became an actor. In 1839, during
+an absence from the theater, he completed his first invention, a
+mechanical excavator, which he sold for $2000. With the money Singer
+organized a theatrical troupe of his own, which he called &ldquo;The Merritt
+Players.&rdquo; When the group failed in Fredericksburg, Ohio, Singer was
+stranded for lack of funds.</p>
+
+<p>Forced to find some type of employment, Singer took a job in a
+Fredericksburg plant that manufactured wooden printers&rsquo; type. He quickly
+recognized the need for an improved type-carving machine. After
+inventing and patenting one, he found no financial support in
+Fredericksburg and decided to take the machine to New York City. Here,
+the firm of A. B. Taylor and Co. agreed to furnish the money and give
+Singer room in its Hague Street factory to build machines. A boiler
+explosion destroyed the first machine, and Taylor refused to advance
+more money.</p>
+
+<p>While Singer was with Taylor, George B. Zieber, a bookseller who had
+seen the type-carving machine, considered its value to publishers.
+Zieber offered to help Singer and raised $1700 to build another model.
+In June 1850 the machine was completed. Singer and Zieber took the
+machine to Boston where they rented display space in the steam-powered
+workshop of Orson C. Phelps at 19 Harvard Place. Only a few publishers
+came to look at the machine, and none wanted to buy it.</p>
+
+<p>Singer, contemplating his future, became interested in Phelps&rsquo; work,
+manufacturing sewing machines for J. A. Lerow and S. C. Blodgett. Phelps
+welcomed Singer&rsquo;s interest as the design of the mechanism was faulty and
+purchasers kept returning the machines for repairs. Singer examined the
+sewing machine with the eyes of a practical machinist. He criticized the
+action of the shuttle, which passed around a circle, and the needle bar,
+which pushed a curved needle horizontally. Singer suggested that the
+shuttle move to and fro in a straight path and that a straight needle be
+used vertically. Phelps encouraged Singer to abandon the type-carving
+machine and turn his energies toward the improvement of the sewing
+machine. Convinced that he could make his ideas work, Singer sketched a
+rough draft of his proposed machine, and with the support of Zieber and
+Phelps the work began.</p>
+
+<p>Singer continued to be active in the sewing-machine business until 1863.
+He made his home in Paris for a short time and then moved to England.
+While living at Torquay he conceived the idea of a fabulous Greco-Roman
+mansion, which he planned to have built at Paignton. Singer called it
+&ldquo;The Wigwam.&rdquo; Unfortunately, after all his plans, he did not live to see
+its completion. Singer died on July 23, 1875, of heart disease at the
+age of sixty-three.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="fnheader">FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_D_94" id="Footnote_D_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_D_94"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> <i>The Proceedings and Debates of the 43rd Congress</i>, First
+Session, 1874 Congressional Record, vol. 2, part 3, petition read to the
+House by Mr. Creamer on April 7, 1874. In part 4 of the same, Mr.
+Buckingham read a similar petition to the Senate on May 19, 1874. Both
+were referred to the Committee on Patents; an extension was not
+granted.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Bibliography" id="Bibliography"></a><i>Bibliography</i></h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p><span class="smcap">Adams, Charles K.</span> Sewing machines. In vol. 7 of <i>Johnson&rsquo;s
+universal cyclopaedia</i>, New York: D. Appleton and Company, 1895.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Alexander, Edwin P.</span> Sewing, plaiting, and felting machines. Pp.
+341-353 in <i>The Practical Mechanic&rsquo;s Journal&rsquo;s record of the great
+exhibition, 1862</i>. 1862.</p>
+
+<p>&mdash;&mdash;. On the sewing machine: Its history and progress. <i>Journal of
+the Royal Society of Arts</i> (April 10, 1863), vol. 2, no. 542, p.
+358.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">American Historical Society.</span> <i>The life and works of George H.
+Corliss.</i> (Privately printed for Mary Corliss by the Society.)
+1930.</p>
+
+<p>Biography of Isaac M. Singer. <i>The Atlas</i>, New York, N.Y., March
+20, 1853.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bishop, J. Leander.</span> In vol. 2 of <i>A history of American
+manufactures from 1608 to 1860</i>, by Bishop; Philadelphia: Edward
+Young and Company, 1866.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bolton, James.</span> Sewing machines, special report on special subjects.
+In vol. 2 of <i>Report of the Committee on Awards</i>; Chicago: World&rsquo;s
+Columbian Exposition, 1893.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Brockett, Linus P.</span> Sewing machines. In vol. 4 of <i>Johnson&rsquo;s
+universal cyclopaedia</i>; New York: D. Appleton and Company, 1874.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Burr, J. B.</span> <i>The great industries of the United States.</i> Hartford:
+J. B. Burr and Hyde, n.d.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cook, Rosamond C.</span> <i>Sewing machines.</i> Peoria, Illinois: Manual Arts
+Press, 1922.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Depew, C. M.</span> 100 years of American commerce. In vol. 2, <i>American
+sewing machines</i> by F. G. Bourne. New York: D. O. Haines, 1895.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">District of Columbia Circuit Court.</span> Case of Hunt vs. Howe. In
+<i>Federal Cases</i>, case 6891, book 12, 1855.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Doolittle, William H.</span> <i>Inventions.</i> Vol. in Library of modern
+progress. Philadelphia: Modern Progress Publishing Company, 1905.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Durgin, Charles A.</span> <i>Digest of patents on sewing machines, Feb. 21,
+1842-July 1, 1859.</i> New York: Livesey Brothers, 1859.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Fairfield, George A.</span> Report on sewing machines. In vol. 3 of
+<i>Report of the commissioners of the United States to the
+international exhibition held at Vienna, 1873.</i> 1874.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Fiske, Bradley A.</span> <i>Invention, the master-key to progress.</i> New
+York: E. P. Dutton and Company, 1921.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Gifford, George W.</span> [Counsel for Elias Howe, Jr.] <i>Argument of
+Gifford in favor of Howe&rsquo;s application for extension of patent.</i>
+Washington: U.S. Patent Office, 1860.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Granger, Jean.</span> Thimonnier et la machine &agrave; coudre. In vol. 2 of <i>Les
+publications techniques.</i> Paris, 1943. [Source for biographical
+sketch on Barthelemy Thimonnier.]</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Gregory, George W.</span> <i>Machines, etc., used in sewing and making
+clothing.</i> Vol. 7 of <i>Reports and Awards</i>. Philadelphia
+International Exhibition, 1876. U.S. Centennial Commission,
+Washington, D.C., 1880.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hersberg, Rudolph.</span> <i>The sewing machine, its history, construction
+and application.</i> Transl. Upfield Green. London: E. &amp; F. N. Spon,
+1864.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Howe, Henry.</span> <i>Adventures and achievements of Americans.</i> Published
+by the author, 1860.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Howe Machine Company.</span> <i>The Howe exhibition catalog of sewing
+machines.</i> Published by the company for the Philadelphia Centennial
+Exposition, 1876.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hubert, Philip G., Jr.</span> <i>Men of achievement: inventors.</i> New York:
+Charles Scribner&rsquo;s Sons, 1894.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hunt, Clinton N.</span> <i>Walter Hunt, American inventor.</i> Published by the
+author, 1935. [Source for biographical sketch on Walter Hunt.]</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">International Exhibition.</span> Sewing and knitting machines. In <i>Reports
+of the Juries</i>, Class VII, Section A. London, 1862.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Johnson Clark and Company.</span> <i>Sewing machines for domestic and export
+trade.</i> Published by the company, 1883.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Kaempffert, Waldemar.</span> A popular history of American invention.
+<i>Making clothes by machine</i>, by John Walker Harrington, vol 2. New
+York: Charles Scribner&rsquo;s Sons, 1924.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Kilgare, C. B.</span> <i>Sewing-machines.</i> Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott
+Company, 1892.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Knight, Edward H.</span> Vol. 3 of <i>Knight&rsquo;s American mechanical
+dictionary</i>. Boston: Houghton, Mifflin and Company, 1882.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Lewton, Frederick L.</span> The servant in the house: a brief history of
+the sewing machine. Pp. 559-583 in Annual Report of the Smithsonian
+Institution (1929); Washington: 1930.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Luth, Erich.</span> <i>Ein Mayener Strumpfwirker, Balthasar Krems,
+1760-1813, Erfinder der N&auml;hmaschine.</i> Hamburg, Germany: Verlag
+Herbert Luth, 1941.</p>
+
+<p>&mdash;&mdash;. <i>Josef Madersperger oder der unscheinbore Genius.</i> Hamburg,
+Germany: Reichsnerband des Deutschen N&auml;hmaschinenhandels EV, 1933
+[?].</p>
+
+<p>Obituary of Isaac M. Singer. <i>New York Tribune</i>, July 26, 1875.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Madersperger, Joseph.</span> <i>Beschreibung einer N&auml;hmaschine.</i> Vienna, ca.
+1816.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">O&rsquo;Brien, Walter.</span> Sewing machines. <i>Textile American</i>, reprinted
+March 1931. [A paper read at a meeting of the Leicester Textile
+Society.]</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Orcutt, Rev. Samuel.</span> <i>A history of the old town of Stratford and
+the city of Bridgeport, Connecticut.</i> 2 vols. Fairfield County
+Historical Society, 1886.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Paris Universal Exposition.</span> <i>Reports of the U.S. Commissioners
+General Survey</i>, vol. 1, pp. 293-297. 1867.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Parton, James.</span> History of the sewing machine. <i>Atlantic Monthly</i>,
+May 1867.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Raymond, William Chandler.</span> <i>Curiosities of the Patent Office.</i>
+Syracuse, N.Y.: published by the author, 1888.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Reid, J. A.</span> <i>A monograph prepared for American industrial education
+conference and exposition.</i> Elizabethport, N.J.: Singer
+Manufacturing Company, 1915.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Renters, Wilhelm.</span> <i>Praktisches <a name="corr_10" id="corr_10"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: wissin">Wissen</ins> von der N&auml;hmaschine.</i>
+Langensalza, Berlin, and Leipzig: Verlag Julius Beltz, 1933.</p>
+
+<p><i>Scientific American.</i> Issues of January 27, February 3, and
+November 24, 1849; July 17, 1852; July 9 and November 5, 1859;
+January 3 and May 16, 1863; October 19, 1867; and July 25, 1896.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Scott, John.</span> <i>Genius rewarded, or the story of the sewing machine.</i>
+New York: J. J. Caulon, 1880.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sewing Machine Advance.</i> Chicago. Vols. 1-35, no. 5, May 1879 to
+1913.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sewing Machine Journal.</i> September 1879 to December 1884.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sewing Machine News.</i> New York. Vols. 1-6, 1877-1879; n.s. vols.
+1-16, 1879-1893.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Sewing Machine Times.</i> New York. Vols. 1-9, 1882-1890; n.s. vols.
+1-38 (nos. 1-725), 1891-April 1924.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Stambaugh, John P.</span> <i>Sewing machines at the 22nd annual exhibition
+of the Maryland Institute, also a history of the sewing machine.</i>
+Hartford, Conn.: Weed Sewing Machine Company, 1872.</p>
+
+<p>Story of sewing machine patents. <i>New York Tribune</i>, May 23, 1862.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Thompson, Holland.</span> The age of invention. Vol. 37 of the Chronicles
+of America. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1921.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Towers, Henry M.</span> <i>Historical sketches relating to Spencer,
+Massachusetts.</i> Vol. 1. Spencer, Mass.: W. G. Heffernan, 1901.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Urquhart, J. W.</span> <i>Sewing machinery.</i> Vol. 8 in Weale&rsquo;s rudimentary
+scientific and educational series. London: Crosby Lockwood and Co.,
+1881.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Van Slyck, J. D.</span> <i>New England manufacturers and manufactories.</i>
+Vol. 2. Boston: Van Slyck and Company, 1879. [Source for
+biographical sketch on Allen Benjamin Wilson, Van Slyck, vol. 2,
+pp. 672-682.]</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Walso, George C., Jr.</span> <i>History of Bridgeport and vicinity.</i> Vol. 2.
+Bridgeport, Conn.: S. J. Clarke Publishing Company, 1917.</p>
+
+<p>Who invented the sewing machine? <i>The Galaxy</i> [article unsigned],
+vol. 4, August 1867.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Indexes" id="Indexes"></a><i>Indexes</i></h2>
+
+<p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Geographical Index to Companies listed in Appendix II</h3>
+
+
+<p>
+CONNECTICUT<br />
+<br />
+Bridgeport<br />
+<span class="inoneem">D. W. Clark, <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Jerome B. Secor, <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Goodbody Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Howe Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Secor Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">American Hand Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Wheeler &amp; Wilson Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Bristol<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Nettleton &amp; Raymond, <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Watson &amp; Wooster, <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Danbury<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Bartram &amp; Fanton Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Hartford<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Morrison, Wilkinson &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Weed Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Meriden<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Fosket and Savage, <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Charles Parker Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Parker Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Middletown<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Victor Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Norwich<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Greenman and True Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Waterbury<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Waterbury Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+West Meriden<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Parkers, Snow, Brooks &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA<br />
+<br />
+Washington<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Post Combination Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+ILLINOIS<br />
+<br />
+Belleville<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Thomas M. Cochrane Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">J. H. Drew &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Belvidere<br />
+<span class="inoneem">June Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">National Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Chicago<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Chicago Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Eldredge Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Free Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Scates, Tryber &amp; Sweetland Mfg., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Sigwalt Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">H. B. Goodrich, <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">June Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Rockford<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Free Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+MAINE<br />
+<br />
+Biddeford<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Shaw &amp; Clark Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+MASSACHUSETTS<br />
+<br />
+Boston<br />
+<span class="inoneem">O. Phelps, <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">J. F. Paul &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Boston Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Bradford &amp; Barber, mfgs., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">John P. Bowker, <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Empire Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Finkle &amp; Lyon Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Grover and Baker Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Nichols and Bliss, <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">J. B. Nichols &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Nichols, Leavitt &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">N. Hunt &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Hunt and Webster, <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Emery, Houghton &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Ladd, Webster &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Leavitt &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Leavitt Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Safford &amp; Williams Makers, <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">C. A. French, <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">F. R. Robinson, <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Howard &amp; Davis, <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">I. M. Singer &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Butterfield &amp; Stevens Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Williams &amp; Orvis Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Chicopee Falls<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Shaw &amp; Clark Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Chicopee Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Florence<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Florence Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Foxboro<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Foxboro Rotary Shuttle Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Lowell<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Aetna Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_65">65</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Lynn<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Woolridge, Keene and Moore, <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Orange<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Gold Medal Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Johnson, Clark &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Grout &amp; White, <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">New Home Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Springfield<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Leader Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Springfield Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">D. B. Wesson Sewing Machine Co.,<a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Winchendon<br />
+<span class="inoneem">J. G. Folsom, <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">William Grout, <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Worcester<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Goddard, Rice &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+MICHIGAN<br />
+<br />
+Detroit<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Decker Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">C. G. Gardner, <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+MISSOURI<br />
+<br />
+St. Louis<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Wardwell Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+NEW HAMPSHIRE<br />
+<br />
+Dover<br />
+<span class="inoneem">O. L. Reynolds Manufacturing Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Marlboro<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Thurston Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Mason Village<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Franklin Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+NEW JERSEY<br />
+<br />
+Elizabethport<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Singer Mfg. Co. (manufactory, not office), <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Paterson<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Whitney Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+NEW YORK<br />
+<br />
+Binghamton<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Independent Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Brooklyn<br />
+<span class="inoneem">J. H. Lester, <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">G. L. Du Laney, <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Ithaca<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Aiken and Felthousen (patentees), <a class="xref" href="#Page_65">65</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_65">65</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Clinton Brothers, <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">T. C. Thompson, <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+New York<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Avery Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">A. Bartholf, mfg., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Bartholf Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Bartlett Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Barlow &amp; Son, <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span><span class="inoneem">Beckwith Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">J. A. Davis, <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Demorest Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Charles A. Durgin, <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Elliptic Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Eureka Shuttle Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Excelsior Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Madame Demorest, <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">First and Frost, <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">L. Griswold, <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Howe Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Thos. A. Macauley Mfg., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">New York Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">T. W. Robertson, <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">I. M. Singer &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Singer Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Standard Shuttle Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Henry Stewart &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Stewart Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">E. E. Lee &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Willcox &amp; Gibbs Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Watertown<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Davis Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Wheeler, Wilson &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Westmoreland<br />
+<span class="inoneem">A. B. Buell, <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+OHIO<br />
+<br />
+Cleveland<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Wilson (W. G.) Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Domestic Sewing Machine Co. (after 1924), <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Leslie Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Standard Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">White Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Dayton<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Davis Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Elyria<br />
+<span class="inoneem">West &amp; Willson Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Norwalk<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Dauntless Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Wm. A. Mack &amp; Co., and N. S. Perkins, <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Domestic Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Springfield<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Royal Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">St. John Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Toledo<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Jewel Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+PENNSYLVANIA<br />
+<br />
+Erie<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Noble Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Philadelphia<br />
+<span class="inoneem">American Buttonhole, Overseaming and Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_65">65</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Centennial Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">George B. Sloat and Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Rex &amp; Bockius, <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Grant Bros. &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">B. W. Lacey &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Parham Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Philadelphia Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Quaker City Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">E. Remington &amp; Sons, <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Taggart &amp; Farr, <a class="xref" href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Pittsburgh<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Love Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+RHODE ISLAND<br />
+<br />
+Providence<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Household Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Providence Tool Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+VERMONT<br />
+<br />
+Brattleboro<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Samuel Barker and Thomas White, <a class="xref" href="#Page_66">66</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Brattleboro Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Estey Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Higby Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_69">69</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Nettleton &amp; Raymond (Charles Raymond), <a class="xref" href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Windsor<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Lamson, Goodnow &amp; Yale, <a class="xref" href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Vermont Arms Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+VIRGINIA<br />
+<br />
+Richmond<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Lester Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Union Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br />
+<span class="inoneem">Old Dominion Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_72">72</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+WISCONSIN<br />
+<br />
+Milwaukee<br />
+<span class="inoneem">Whitehill Mfg. Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_74">74</a></span><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><br /><br />Alphabetical Index to Patentees listed in Appendix III</h3>
+
+<p>
+Abercrombi, Charles, 520977<br />
+<br />
+Abbott, W. W., 252984<br />
+<br />
+Adams, John Q., 92138<br />
+<br />
+Alexander, Elisa, 16518<br />
+<br />
+Ambler, D. C., 11884<br />
+<br />
+Angell, Benjamin J., 19285<br />
+<br />
+Applegate, John H., and Webb, Charles B., 177784<br />
+<br />
+Appleton, C. J., and Sibley, J. J., 179440<br />
+<br />
+Arnold, B., 86121, 138981, 138982<br />
+<br />
+Arnold, G. B. and A., 30112<br />
+<br />
+Arnold, G. B., 28139<br />
+<br />
+Atwater, B., 44063<br />
+<br />
+Atwood, J. E., 22273<br />
+<br />
+Atwood, K. C., 194759<br />
+<br />
+Atwood, J. E., J. C., and O., 19903<br />
+<br />
+Avery, Otis, 9338, 10880<br />
+<br />
+Avery, O. and Z. W., 22007<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Bachelder, J., 6439<br />
+<br />
+Baglin, William, 154113<br />
+<br />
+Baker, G. W., 70152, 125374, 130005<br />
+<br />
+Baldwin, Cyrus W., 38276<br />
+<br />
+Banks, C. M., 225784<br />
+<br />
+Barcellos, D., 203102<br />
+<br />
+Barnes, M. M., 106307<br />
+<br />
+Barnes, William T., 20688, 25084, 25876<br />
+<br />
+Barney, Samuel C., 156119<br />
+<br />
+Barrett, O. D., 25785<br />
+<br />
+Bartholf, Abraham, 19823<br />
+<br />
+Bartlett, Joseph W., 46064, 76385<br />
+<br />
+Bartlett, Joseph W., and Plant, Frederick, 159065<br />
+<br />
+Barton, Kate C., 182096<br />
+<br />
+Bartram, W. B., 54670, 54671, 60669, 62520, 83592, 104247, 130557<br />
+<br />
+Bates, W. G., assignor to Johnson, William H., 9592<br />
+<br />
+Bayley, C. H., 212122<br />
+<br />
+Bean, Benjamin W., 2982<br />
+<br />
+Bean, E. E., 28144<br />
+<br />
+Beardslee, W. F., 245781<br />
+<br />
+Beck, August, 190184, 196863<br />
+<br />
+Beckwith, William G., 126921, 133351, 167382<br />
+<br />
+Behn, Henry, 18071, 18880<br />
+<br />
+Belcher, C. D., 16710<br />
+<br />
+Benedict, C. P., 83596<br />
+<br />
+Bennett, Frank Howard, and Dowling, James, 409728<br />
+<br />
+Bennor, Joseph, 106249<br />
+<br />
+Benson, George, 238556<br />
+<br />
+Beukler, William, 204704<br />
+<br />
+Beuttel, Charles, 115155<br />
+<br />
+Bigelow, J., 263467<br />
+<br />
+Billings, C. E., 88603<br />
+<br />
+Bishop, H. H., 22226<br />
+<br />
+Black, Samuel S., 146642<br />
+<br />
+Blake, Lyman R., 20775, 74289<br />
+<br />
+Blanchard, Helen A., 141987<br />
+<br />
+Bland, Henry, 216016, 221505<br />
+<br />
+Blodgett, S. C, 15469, 21465<br />
+<br />
+Blodgett, John W., 279320<br />
+<br />
+Boecher, Adam, 300199<br />
+<br />
+Bond, Joseph Jr., 12939, 93588, 189599<br />
+<br />
+Booth, Ezekiel, 25087<br />
+<br />
+Boppel, Jacob, 396979<br />
+<br />
+Borton, S., 214089<br />
+<br />
+Borton, Stockton, and Willcox, Charles H., 255576, 255577, 255580, 255581<br />
+<br />
+Bosworth, C. F., 19979, 38807, 122555, 199500, 216504<br />
+<br />
+Bounaz, A., 83909, 83910<br />
+<br />
+Bouscay, Eloi, Jr., 127145<br />
+<br />
+Bowyer, J. T., 454708<br />
+<br />
+Boyd, A. H., 19171, 24003, 31864<br />
+<br />
+Bracher, T. W., 221508<br />
+<br />
+Bradeen, J. G., 9380<br />
+<br />
+Bradford, E. F. and Pierce, V. R., 177371<br />
+<br />
+Braundbeck, E., 127675<br />
+<br />
+Brewer, A. G., 152894<br />
+<br />
+Briggs, Thomas, 198790<br />
+<br />
+Brown, F. H., 94389, 102366, 131735, 193477<br />
+<br />
+Bruen, J. T., 31208<br />
+<br />
+Bruen, L. B., 68839<br />
+<br />
+Budlong, William G., 25946<br />
+<br />
+Buell, J. S., 25381<br />
+<br />
+Buhr, Johannes, 151272<br />
+<br />
+Burnet, S. S. and Broderick, W., 22160<br />
+<br />
+Burr, Theodore, 32023<br />
+<br />
+Butcher, Joseph, 180542, 233657<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Cadwell, Caleb, 45972, 71131<br />
+<br />
+Cajar, Emil, 50299, 61711<br />
+<br />
+Cameron, James W., 272527<br />
+<br />
+Campbell, Duncan H., 241612, 241613<br />
+<br />
+Canfield, F. P., 86057<br />
+<br />
+Carhart, Peter S., 24098<br />
+<br />
+Carlisle, W. S., 270540<br />
+<br />
+Carpenter, Lunan, 20990<br />
+<br />
+Carpenter, Mary P., 112016<br />
+<br />
+Carpenter, William, 87633<br />
+<br />
+Carr, William H. and Ostrom, F. W., 303361<br />
+<br />
+Case, George F., 33029<br />
+<br />
+Cately, William H., 56902<br />
+<br />
+Chamberlain, J. N., 28452<br />
+<br />
+Chandler, Rufus, 133757, 139368<br />
+<br />
+Charmbury, H., 316745<br />
+<br />
+Chase, M., 113498<br />
+<br />
+Chilcott, J. and Scrimgeour, J., 12856<br />
+<br />
+Chittenden, H. H., 43289<br />
+<br />
+Choquette, A. E., 244033<br />
+<br />
+Clark, David W., 19015, 19072, 19129, 19409, 19732, 20481, 21322, 23823<br />
+<br />
+Clark, Edwin, 26336<br />
+<br />
+Clark, Edwin E., 74751<br />
+<br />
+Clements, James M., 57451<br />
+<br />
+Cleminshaw, S., 128363, 213391<br />
+<br />
+Clever, P. J., 96886<br />
+<br />
+Clever, Peter J., 296529<br />
+<br />
+Coates, F. S., 19684<br />
+<br />
+Cole, W. H., 79447<br />
+<br />
+Conant, J. S., 12233<br />
+<br />
+Conklin, N. A., 206774<br />
+<br />
+Cook, Hugo, 454610<br />
+<br />
+Cooney, W., 102226<br />
+<br />
+Corbett, E. and Harlow, C. F., 192568<br />
+<br />
+Corey, J. W., 198970<br />
+<br />
+Corliss, George H., 3389<br />
+<br />
+Cornely, E., 73696<br />
+<br />
+Cornely, Emile, 219225<br />
+<br />
+Craige, E. H., 62186, 67635<br />
+<br />
+Crane, Thomas, 150532<br />
+<br />
+Crosby, C. O., 50225, 90507<br />
+<br />
+Crosby, C. O. and Kellogg, H., 37033<br />
+<br />
+Cummins, William G., 187822<br />
+<br />
+Curtis, G. H. W., 228985<br />
+<br />
+Cushman, C. S., 142442, 184594<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Dale, John D., 44686<br />
+<br />
+Dancel, Christian, 199802<br />
+<br />
+Darling and Darling, 163639<br />
+<br />
+Davis, Job A., 27208, 58614<br />
+<br />
+Derocquigny, A. C. F., Gance, D., and Hanzo, L., 34748<br />
+<br />
+Deschamps, O. L., 253915<br />
+<br />
+Destouy, Auguste, 56729<br />
+<br />
+Dewees, John W., 432746<br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span><br />
+Dickinson, C. W., 26346<br />
+<br />
+Diehl, Philipp, 339623, 347776, 347777, 348113<br />
+<br />
+Dieterle, H. E., 353542<br />
+<br />
+Dimmock, Martial and  Rixford, Nathan, 19135<br />
+<br />
+Dimond, George H., 196198, 207400<br />
+<br />
+Dinsmore, Alfred S., 160512, 231155<br />
+<br />
+Dinsmore, A. S., and Carter, John T., 152618<br />
+<br />
+Doll, Arnold, 68420<br />
+<br />
+Dopp, H. W., 27279<br />
+<br />
+Dowling, James, and Connolly, John, 299118<br />
+<br />
+Drake, Ellis, 155932<br />
+<br />
+Duchemin, William, 59715, 91101, 135032, 288929<br />
+<br />
+Dunbar, C. F., 88282<br />
+<br />
+Durgin, Charles A., 12902<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Earle, T., 31156<br />
+<br />
+Eickemeyer, Rudolf, 52698, 182182, 239319<br />
+<br />
+Elderfield, F. D., 204429<br />
+<br />
+Eldridge, G. W., 87331<br />
+<br />
+Elliott, F., 85918<br />
+<br />
+Emerson, John, 50989<br />
+<br />
+Emswiler, J. B., 25002<br />
+<br />
+Esty, William, 187837<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Fales, J. F., 74328<br />
+<br />
+Fanning, John, 72829, 129013<br />
+<br />
+Farr, Chester N., 25004<br />
+<br />
+Farrar, Arthur, 309837<br />
+<br />
+Fetter, George, 18793, 19059<br />
+<br />
+Fish, Warren L., 123625<br />
+<br />
+Fletcher, James N., 443756<br />
+<br />
+Follett, Joseph L., 189446<br />
+<br />
+Fosket, William A., and Savage, Elliot,  22719, 25963<br />
+<br />
+French, Stephen, 80345<br />
+<br />
+Frese, B., 172308<br />
+<br />
+Fuller, H. W., 63033<br />
+<br />
+Fuller, William M., 32496<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Garland, H. P., 159812, 169163<br />
+<br />
+Gee, W. V., 361406<br />
+<br />
+Gibbs, James E. A., 16234, 16434, 17427, 21129, 21751, 27214, 28851<br />
+<br />
+Gird, E. D., 87559<br />
+<br />
+Goodes, E. A., 136718, 147387<br />
+<br />
+Goodspeed, G. N., 54816<br />
+<br />
+Goodwin, Julius C., 450793<br />
+<br />
+Goodwyn, H. H., 24455<br />
+<br />
+Goodyear, Charles Jr., 111197, 116947<br />
+<br />
+Gordon, James, and Kinert, William, 125807<br />
+<br />
+Gray, Joshua, 16566, 19665, 24022, 95581<br />
+<br />
+Green, George F., 238678<br />
+<br />
+Greenough, John J., 2466<br />
+<br />
+Gritzner, M. C., 44720, 76323<br />
+<br />
+Gritzner, Max C., 243444<br />
+<br />
+Grote, F. W., 38447<br />
+<br />
+Grout, William, 24629<br />
+<br />
+Grover, William O., 14956, 33778, 36405, 100139<br />
+<br />
+Grover, William O., and Baker, William E., 7931<br />
+<br />
+Guinness, William S., 41916<br />
+<br />
+Gullrandsen, P. E., and Rettinger, J. C., 180225<br />
+<br />
+Gutmann, Julius, 90528<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Halbert, A. W., 76076<br />
+<br />
+Hall, William, 24870<br />
+<br />
+Hale, William S., 36084<br />
+<br />
+Hall, Luther, 43404<br />
+<br />
+Hall, L., 105329<br />
+<br />
+Hall, John S., 168637, 187006<br />
+<br />
+Hallenbeck, J. P., 425422<br />
+<br />
+Hallett, H. H., 191584<br />
+<br />
+Hamm, E., 219578<br />
+<br />
+Hancock, Henry J., 83492, 112033<br />
+<br />
+Hanlon, John, 52847<br />
+<br />
+Happe, J., and Newman, W., 130715, 137199<br />
+<br />
+Hardie, J. W., 30854<br />
+<br />
+Harris, Daniel, 17508, 17571<br />
+<br />
+Harris, David, 185228<br />
+<br />
+Harrison, J. Jr., 10763, 13616, 25013, 25262<br />
+<br />
+Hart, William, 50469<br />
+<br />
+Hayes, James, 55029<br />
+<br />
+Hayden, H. W., 24937<br />
+<br />
+Heberling, J., 204604, 227249, 227525, 284300<br />
+<br />
+Hecht, A., 50473<br />
+<br />
+Heery, Luke, 94740<br />
+<br />
+Heidenthal, William, 127765<br />
+<br />
+Helwig, Arthur, 350364<br />
+<br />
+Hendrick, Joseph E., 19660, 21722<br />
+<br />
+Hendrickson, E. M., 34330<br />
+<br />
+Henriksen, H. P., 104590, 188515, 215615<br />
+<br />
+Hensel, George, 24737<br />
+<br />
+Herron, A. C., 20557<br />
+<br />
+Hesse, Joseph, 235085<br />
+<br />
+Heyer, W. D., 40622<br />
+<br />
+Heyer, Frederick, 30731<br />
+<br />
+Hicks, William C., 26035, 29268<br />
+<br />
+Hinkley, Jonas, 25231<br />
+<br />
+Hinds, Jesse L., 131166<br />
+<br />
+Hine, Charles M., 420382<br />
+<br />
+Hine, Charlie M., 246136<br />
+<br />
+Hodgkins, Christopher, 9365, 33085, 69666<br />
+<br />
+Hoefler, J., 246883<br />
+<br />
+Hoffman, George W., 94112<br />
+<br />
+Hoffman, Clara P., and Meyers, Nicholas, 207035<br />
+<br />
+Holden, O. J., and Griswold, L., 272050<br />
+<br />
+Hollowell, J. G., 27624<br />
+<br />
+Holly, Birdsill, 28176<br />
+<br />
+Hook, Albert H., 22179, 24027<br />
+<br />
+Horr, Addison D., 149862<br />
+<br />
+House, James A., 206239<br />
+<br />
+House, James A., and House, Henry A., 36932, 39442, 39445, 55865, 87338, 114294<br />
+<br />
+Howard, C. W., 126056, 126057<br />
+<br />
+Howard, T. S. L., 199206<br />
+<br />
+Howard, E. L., 154485<br />
+<br />
+Howard, E., and Jackson, W. H., 103745<br />
+<br />
+Howe, Amasa Bemis, 37913<br />
+<br />
+Howe, Elias, 4750, 16436<br />
+<br />
+Hubbard, George W., 18904, 21537<br />
+<br />
+Hull, E. H., 254217<br />
+<br />
+Humphrey, D. W. G., 36617, 49627<br />
+<br />
+Hunt, Walter, 11161<br />
+<br />
+Huntington, Thomas S., 158214<br />
+<br />
+Hurtu, Auguste J., 258761, 315037<br />
+<br />
+Hurtu, Auguste J., and Hautin, Victor J., 98064<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Ingalls, N., Jr., 212602<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Jackson, Francis, 519064<br />
+<br />
+Jackson, William, 181941<br />
+<br />
+Jacob, Frederick, 190047<br />
+<br />
+Jencks, G. L., 74694<br />
+<br />
+Jennings, L., 16237<br />
+<br />
+Johnson, Albert F., 16387, 20686, 26948<br />
+<br />
+Johnson, W. H., 10597<br />
+<br />
+Jones, John T., 86163, 117640, 169106<br />
+<br />
+Jones, Samuel H., 140631<br />
+<br />
+Jones, Solomon, 118537, 118538<br />
+<br />
+Jones, William, and Haughian, P., 32297<br />
+<br />
+Juengst, George, 27132, 228820<br />
+<br />
+Junker, Carl, 217112<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Kallmeyer, G., 137689<br />
+<br />
+Keats, Alphonso, 260990<br />
+<br />
+Keats, John, 198120<br />
+<br />
+Keats, John; Greenwood, Arthur; and Keats, Alphonso, 171622<br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span><br />
+Keats, John, and Clark. Wm. S., 50995<br />
+<br />
+Keith, Jeremiah, 97518, 170741, 196809, 209126, 243710<br />
+<br />
+Keith, T. H., 196909<br />
+<br />
+Keith, T. K., 170955<br />
+<br />
+Kelsey, D., 24939<br />
+<br />
+Kendall, George F., 101887<br />
+<br />
+Kern, Ferdinand, 479369<br />
+<br />
+Kilbourn, E. E., 59746<br />
+<br />
+Kjalman, H. N., 235783<br />
+<br />
+Knoch, Charles F., 183400<br />
+<br />
+Koch, William, 262298<br />
+<br />
+Koch, Friederich, and Brass, Robert, 138898, 145215<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Lamb, Isaac W., 109632<br />
+<br />
+Lamb, Thomas, 98390, 118728<br />
+<br />
+Lamb, Thomas, and Allen, John, 49421<br />
+<br />
+Lamson, Henry P., 79579<br />
+<br />
+Landfear, William R., 109427, 155193<br />
+<br />
+Langdon, Leander W., 13727, 39256<br />
+<br />
+Lathbury, E. T., 17744<br />
+<br />
+Lathrop, Lebbeus W., 139067<br />
+<br />
+Lathrop, Lebbeus W., and de Sanno, William P., 40446<br />
+<br />
+Lawrence, G. H., 290895<br />
+<br />
+Lazelle, W. H., 18915<br />
+<br />
+Leavitte, Albert, 171147<br />
+<br />
+Leavitt, Rufus, 30634<br />
+<br />
+Leavitt, Albert, and Drew, Henry L., 187874<br />
+<br />
+Legat, D. M., 218388<br />
+<br />
+Legg, Albert, and Weston, Charles W., 474840<br />
+<br />
+Leslie, A. M., 241808<br />
+<br />
+Leyden, Austin, 57157<br />
+<br />
+Lingley, John W., 368538<br />
+<br />
+Lipe, C. E., 229322<br />
+<br />
+Lisle, Myron C., 428171<br />
+<br />
+Ludeke, Waldemar, 275506, 300380<br />
+<br />
+Lyon, Lucius, 89489, 96713, 105820<br />
+<br />
+Lyon, W., 12066<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Macauley, F. A., 195939<br />
+<br />
+Mack, William A., 38592<br />
+<br />
+Mallary, G. H., 31897<br />
+<br />
+Mann, Charles, 33556<br />
+<br />
+Marble, F. E., 33439<br />
+<br />
+Marin, Charles, 179709<br />
+<br />
+Martin, W., Jr.; Dawson, D. R.; and Orchar, R., 206743<br />
+<br />
+Martine, Charles F., 104612<br />
+<br />
+Meyers, Nicholas, 99783<br />
+<br />
+Melhuish, R. M., 194610<br />
+<br />
+McCloskey, John, 55688, 161534<br />
+<br />
+McClure, A. T., 130385<br />
+<br />
+McKay, Gordon, and Blake, Lyman, 42916<br />
+<br />
+McKay, Gordon, 188809<br />
+<br />
+McLean, J. N., 88499<br />
+<br />
+McCombs, George F., 208407<br />
+<br />
+McCurdy, James S., 24395, 26234, 28097, 28993, 36256, 38931, 46303, 53743<br />
+<br />
+Miehling, Charles, 351992<br />
+<br />
+Miller, Charles, 9139, 26462<br />
+<br />
+Miller, Westley, 20763<br />
+<br />
+Miller, Lebbens B., and Diehl, Philipp, 229629, 274359<br />
+<br />
+Mills, Daniel, 96944, 265850, 313359<br />
+<br />
+Mooney, John H., 222298, 244470<br />
+<br />
+Moore, Charles, 21015<br />
+<br />
+Moreau, Eugene, 110669, 156171<br />
+<br />
+Morley, J. H., 228918, 236350<br />
+<br />
+Morrell, R. W.; Parkinson, T.; Parkinson, J., 202857<br />
+<br />
+Morrison, T. W., 216289<br />
+<br />
+Muegge, C. A., 332207<br />
+<br />
+Mueller, H., 28996<br />
+<br />
+Muir, William, 147152<br />
+<br />
+Murphy, E., 176880<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Nasch, Isidor, 104630<br />
+<br />
+Necker, Carl, 117101<br />
+<br />
+Nettleton, William H., and Raymond, Charles, 17049, 18350<br />
+<br />
+Newell, George F., 242470<br />
+<br />
+Newlove, Thomas, 27761<br />
+<br />
+Norton, B. F., 32782<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="corr_11" id="corr_11"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: O&rsquo;Niel">
+O&rsquo;Neil</ins>, John, 137618<br />
+<br />
+Oram, Henry, 185952<br />
+<br />
+Osborne, J. H., 224219<br />
+<br />
+Otis, S. L., 221093<br />
+<br />
+Osterhout, James A., and Hallenbeck, Joseph P., 402610<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Page, Charles, 96343, 150479<br />
+<br />
+Paine, A. R., 27412<br />
+<br />
+Palmateer, William A., 187479<br />
+<br />
+Palmer, Aaron, 35252<br />
+<br />
+Palmer, C. H., 38450, 124694, 240758<br />
+<br />
+Palmer, Frank L., 185954<br />
+<br />
+Palmer, John H., 298228<br />
+<br />
+Parham, Charles, 109443, 135579<br />
+<br />
+Parker, Sidney, 19662, 24780<br />
+<br />
+Parks, Volney, 129981<br />
+<br />
+Parmenter, Charles O., 212495<br />
+<br />
+Payne, R. S., 30641<br />
+<br />
+Pearson, M. H., 199991<br />
+<br />
+Pearson, William, 26201<br />
+<br />
+Pearson, William, 166805, 172478<br />
+<br />
+Perry, James, 22148<br />
+<br />
+Piper, D. B., 56990<br />
+<br />
+Pipo, John A., 37550<br />
+<br />
+Pitt, James; Joseph; Edward; and William, 117203<br />
+<br />
+Planer, Louis, 43927<br />
+<br />
+Porter, D. A., 144864<br />
+<br />
+Porter, Alonzo, 99704<br />
+<br />
+Porter, D&rsquo;Arcy, and Baker, George W., 174703<br />
+<br />
+Powell, Thomas, 442695<br />
+<br />
+Pratt, Samuel F., 16745, 22240<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Ragan, Daniel, 137321<br />
+<br />
+Ramsden, John W., 262116<br />
+<br />
+Randel, William, 192008<br />
+<br />
+Rayer, William A., and Lincoln, William S., 108827<br />
+<br />
+Raymond, Charles, 19612, 22220, 32785, 32925<br />
+<br />
+Reed, T. K., 60241, 62287<br />
+<br />
+Rehfuss, George, 40311, 51086, 61102, 73119<br />
+<br />
+Reynolds, O. S., 19793<br />
+<br />
+Rice, T. M., 176686<br />
+<br />
+Rice, Quartus, 31429<br />
+<br />
+Richards, Jean E., 252799<br />
+<br />
+Richardson, E. F., 145687<br />
+<br />
+Richardson, Everett P., 146948, 165506<br />
+<br />
+Roberts, William, 254696<br />
+<br />
+Robertson, T. J. W., 12015<br />
+<br />
+Robinson, Charles E., 110790<br />
+<br />
+Robinson, Frederick R., 7824<br />
+<br />
+Rodier, Peter, 59659<br />
+<br />
+Roper, S. H., 11531, 16026, 18522<br />
+<br />
+Rose, Israel M., 28814, 31628<br />
+<br />
+Rose, Reubin M., 170596<br />
+<br />
+Rosenthal, Sally Adolph, 353970<br />
+<br />
+Ross, Noble G., 31829<br />
+<br />
+Ross, J. G., and Miller, T. L., 138764<br />
+<br />
+Rowe, James, 26638, 27260<br />
+<br />
+Ruddick, H., 28538<br />
+<br />
+Rudolph, Bruno, 99481<br />
+<br />
+Rudolph, Ernst B. (deceased), Boulter, W. E. (administrator), 449927<br />
+<br />
+Russell, W. W., 86695<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Sage, William, 17717<br />
+<br />
+Sangster, Amos W., 21929<br />
+<br />
+Savage, Elliott, 19876<br />
+<br />
+Sawyer, Irvin P., and Alsop, T., 25918<br />
+<br />
+Sawyer, Sylvanus, and Esty, William, 174159<br />
+<br />
+Schmidt, Albert E., 162697<br />
+<br />
+Schwalback, M., 56805<br />
+<br />
+Scofield, Charles, 26059<br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span><br />
+Scofield, Charles, and Rice, Clarke, 28610<br />
+<br />
+Scribner, Benjamin, Jr., 146483<br />
+<br />
+Secor, J. B., 253772<br />
+<br />
+Sedmihradsky, A. J., 196486<br />
+<br />
+Shaw, E., 230580<br />
+<br />
+Shaw, Philander, 11680<br />
+<br />
+Shaw, A. B., 37202<br />
+<br />
+Shaw, Henry L., 32007<br />
+<br />
+Shaw and Clark, 38246<br />
+<br />
+Sheffield, G. V., 135047<br />
+<br />
+Shorey, Samuel W., 148765<br />
+<br />
+Sibley, J. J., 42117<br />
+<br />
+Sidenberg, William, 112745, 115117<br />
+<br />
+Simmons, Frederick, 216902<br />
+<br />
+Simmons, A. G., and Scofield, C., 41790<br />
+<br />
+Singer, Isaac M., 8294, 10975, 12364, 13065, 13661, 13662, 14475, 60433, 61270<br />
+<br />
+Smalley, J., 27577<br />
+<br />
+Smith, DeWitt C., 45528<br />
+<br />
+Smith, E. H., 20739, 21089, 96160<br />
+<br />
+Smith, H. B., 12247<br />
+<br />
+Smith, J. M., 31334<br />
+<br />
+Smith, Lewis H., 31411, 32385<br />
+<br />
+Smith, John C., 34988<br />
+<br />
+Smith, James H., 148902<br />
+<br />
+Smith, Wilson H., 28785<br />
+<br />
+Smith, W. M., 225199<br />
+<br />
+Smith, William T., 99743<br />
+<br />
+Smyth, D. M., 126845, 234732<br />
+<br />
+Snediker, J. F., 222089<br />
+<br />
+Snyder, Watson, 22987<br />
+<br />
+Spencer, James C., 24061<br />
+<br />
+Spencer, James H., and Lamb, Thomas, 22137<br />
+<br />
+Speirs, John, 152813<br />
+<br />
+Spoehr, F., 101779<br />
+<br />
+Springer, William A., 128919, 142290, 147441<br />
+<br />
+Stackpole, G., and Applegate, J. H., 220314<br />
+<br />
+Stannard, M., 64184<br />
+<br />
+Stedman, G. W., 12074, 12573, 12798, 13856<br />
+<br />
+Stein, M. J., 81956, 113593<br />
+<br />
+Stevens, George, and Hendy, Joshua, 111488<br />
+<br />
+Steward, A., 207454<br />
+<br />
+Stewart, James, Jr., 141397, 432449<br />
+<br />
+Stewart, W. T., 205698<br />
+<br />
+Stoakes, J. W., 32456<br />
+<br />
+Sullivan, John J., 179232<br />
+<br />
+Sutton, William A., 29202<br />
+<br />
+Swartwout, H. L., 89357<br />
+<br />
+Swingle, A., 14207<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Taft, J. C., 547866<br />
+<br />
+Tapley, G. S., 25059<br />
+<br />
+Tarbox, John N., 49803<br />
+<br />
+Tate, William J., 113704<br />
+<br />
+Taylor, F. B., 146721<br />
+<br />
+Temple, John, 358088<br />
+<br />
+Thayer, Augustus, 172205<br />
+<br />
+Thimonnier, E., and Vernaz, C., 287592<br />
+<br />
+Thomas, Joseph, 330170<br />
+<br />
+Thomas, J., 236466<br />
+<br />
+Thompson, J., 27082<br />
+<br />
+Thompson, T. C., 9641<br />
+<br />
+Thompson, Rosewell, 34926, 42449<br />
+<br />
+Thurston, C. H., 233300<br />
+<br />
+Tittman, Alexander, 89093, 136792<br />
+<br />
+Toll, Charles F., 171193<br />
+<br />
+Tracy, Dwight, 30012<br />
+<br />
+Tracy, Dwight, and Hobbs, George, 40000<br />
+<br />
+Trip, J., 308711<br />
+<br />
+True, Cyrus B., 148336<br />
+<br />
+Tucker, R. D., 320898<br />
+<br />
+Tucker, Joseph C., 56641<br />
+<br />
+Turner, M. G., 312306<br />
+<br />
+Turner, S. S., 133553<br />
+<br />
+Tuttle, J. W., and Keith, T. K., 219782<br />
+<br />
+Thompson, George, 115255<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Uhlinger, W. P., 21224<br />
+<br />
+Upson, L. A., 176153<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Van Vechten, O. R., 302063<br />
+<br />
+Varicas, L., 204864<br />
+<br />
+Venner, O., 133814<br />
+<br />
+Veukler, W., 255916<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Wagener, Jeptha A., 40296<br />
+<br />
+Walker, William, 141407, 176101, 320099, 353720<br />
+<br />
+Walker and Bennet, 428548<br />
+<br />
+Ward, D. T., 12146<br />
+<br />
+Wardwell, Simon W., Jr., 128684, 141245, 148339<br />
+<br />
+Warth, Albin, 56646, 73064<br />
+<br />
+Washburn, T. S., 30031<br />
+<br />
+Waterbury, Enos, 79037<br />
+<br />
+Watson, William C., 14433, 18834<br />
+<br />
+Weber, Theodore A., 145823, 166236<br />
+<br />
+Webb, T., and Heartfield, C. H., 213537<br />
+<br />
+Webster, W., 182249, 402497<br />
+<br />
+Weitling, W., 37931, 45777<br />
+<br />
+Wells, W. W., 209843<br />
+<br />
+Wensley, James, 152055, 207230<br />
+<br />
+West, Elliott P., 117708, 130674, 138772<br />
+<br />
+West, H. B., and Willson, H. F., 20753<br />
+<br />
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, 420847<br />
+<br />
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, and Dial, Wilbur F., 328165<br />
+<br />
+Wheeler, Darius, and Carpenter, Lunan, 21100<br />
+<br />
+Whitehill, Robert, 166172<br />
+<br />
+Wickersham, William, 9679, 18068, 18069<br />
+<br />
+Wilder, M. G., 32323<br />
+<br />
+Wilkins, J. N., 36591<br />
+<br />
+Wilkinson, Charles E., 269251<br />
+<br />
+Willcox, Charles H., 42036, 43819, 44490, 44491, 218413, 230212, 246700<br />
+<br />
+Willcox, C. H., and Borton, S., 472094<br />
+<br />
+Willcox, C. H., and Carleton, C., 116521, 116523, 116783<br />
+<br />
+Wilson, Allen B., 7776, 8296, 9041<br />
+<br />
+Wiseman, Edmund, 228711<br />
+<br />
+Witherspoon, S. A., 176211<br />
+<br />
+Winter, William, 88936<br />
+<br />
+Wollenberg, H., and Priesner, J., 206848<br />
+<br />
+Wood, John, 185811<br />
+<br />
+Wood, Richard G., 207928<br />
+<br />
+Woodruff, George B., and Browning, George, 97014<br />
+<br />
+Woodward, E., 247285<br />
+<br />
+Woodward, F. G., 25782<br />
+<br />
+Woodward, Erastus, and Keith, Thomas K., 316927<br />
+<br />
+Wormald, William, and Dobson, Edmund, 169881<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Young, E. S., and Dimond, G. H., 206992<br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p>
+<h3><br /><br />General Index to Chapters 1-4</h3>
+
+<p>
+Adams and Dodge, <a class="xref" href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+<br />
+Aetna Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+American Buttonhole and Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Archbold, Thomas, <a class="xref" href="#Page_13">13</a><br />
+<br />
+Arrowsmith, George A., <a class="xref" href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Bachelder, John, <a class="xref" href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_42">42</a><br />
+<br />
+Baker, William E., <a class="xref" href="#Page_36">36</a> (<i>see</i> Grover &amp; Baker)<br />
+<br />
+Bartholf, A., <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Bartlett Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Bartram &amp; Fanton Manufacturing Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Bean, Benjamin W., <a class="xref" href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_15">15</a><br />
+<br />
+Blees Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Bliss, George, <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a><br />
+<br />
+Blodgett and Lerow, <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_30">30</a><br />
+<br />
+Blodgett, Sherbrune C., <a class="xref" href="#Page_25">25</a><br />
+<br />
+Bradshaw, John A., <a class="xref" href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_27">27</a><br />
+<br />
+Brown, W. N., <a class="xref" href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Centennial Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Chapman, Edward Walter, <a class="xref" href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+<br />
+Chapman, William, <a class="xref" href="#Page_7">7</a><br />
+<br />
+Clark, D. W., <a class="xref" href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+<br />
+Clark, Edward, <a class="xref" href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_35">35</a><br />
+<br />
+Combination, Sewing-Machine, <a class="xref" href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_41">41</a>-<a class="xref" href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+<br />
+Conant, Jotham S., <a class="xref" href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+<br />
+Corliss, George H., <a class="xref" href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_16">16</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Dale, John D., <a class="xref" href="#Page_54">54</a><br />
+<br />
+Davis, Ari, <a class="xref" href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+<br />
+Davis Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Demorest, Madame, <a class="xref" href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+<br />
+Dodge, Rev. John Adam, <a class="xref" href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+<br />
+Domestic Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Duncan, John, <a class="xref" href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Elliptic Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Ellithorp, S. B., <a class="xref" href="#Page_51">51</a><br />
+<br />
+Ellithorp &amp; Fox, <a class="xref" href="#Page_51">51</a><br />
+<br />
+Empire Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Fairy Sewing Machine, <a class="xref" href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+<br />
+Family Sewing Machine (Singer), <a class="xref" href="#Page_35">35</a><br />
+<br />
+Finkle &amp; Lyon Manufacturing Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Fisher, George, <a class="xref" href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+<br />
+Fisher, John, <a class="xref" href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_16">16</a><br />
+<br />
+Florence Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Folsom, J. G., <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Gibbons, James, <a class="xref" href="#Page_15">15</a><br />
+<br />
+Gibbs, James E. A., <a class="xref" href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+<br />
+Goddard, Rice &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_25">25</a><br />
+<br />
+Gold Medal Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+<br />
+Goodspeed &amp; Wyman Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Grasshopper, The, <a class="xref" href="#Page_35">35</a><br />
+<br />
+Greenough, John J., <a class="xref" href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_14">14</a><br />
+<br />
+Grover &amp; Baker Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_41">41</a><br />
+<br />
+Grover, William O., <a class="xref" href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_38">38</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Heberling, John, <a class="xref" href="#Page_54">54</a><br />
+<br />
+Henderson, James, <a class="xref" href="#Page_6">6</a><br />
+<br />
+Hendrick, Joseph, <a class="xref" href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+<br />
+Heyer, W. D., <a class="xref" href="#Page_52">52</a><br />
+<br />
+Hook, Albert H., <a class="xref" href="#Page_50">50</a><br />
+<br />
+Howe, Amasa B., <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a><br />
+<br />
+Howe, Elias, Jr., <a class="xref" href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_138">138</a> (biographical sketch)<br />
+<br />
+Howe Machine Company (Elias), <a class="xref" href="#Page_25">25</a><br />
+<br />
+Howe Sewing Machine Company (Amasa, then B. P.), <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Hunt, Walter, <a class="xref" href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_138">138</a> (biographical sketch)<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Jenny Lind (sewing machine), <a class="xref" href="#Page_30">30</a><br />
+<br />
+Johnson, Joseph B., <a class="xref" href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Keystone Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Kline, A. P., <a class="xref" href="#Page_27">27</a><br />
+<br />
+Knowles, John, <a class="xref" href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+<br />
+Krems, Balthasar, <a class="xref" href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+<br />
+Ladd &amp; Webster Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Leavitt Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Lee, Edward, <a class="xref" href="#Page_27">27</a><br />
+<br />
+Lee, E. &amp; Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_28">28</a><br />
+<br />
+Lerow, John A., <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_25">25</a><br />
+<br />
+Little Gem, <a class="xref" href="#Page_53">53</a><br />
+<br />
+London Sewing Machine, <a class="xref" href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+<br />
+Lye, Henry, <a class="xref" href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+McKay Sewing Machine Association, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Madersperger, Josef, <a class="xref" href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_13">13</a><br />
+<br />
+Magnin, Jean Marie, <a class="xref" href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+<br />
+Mason, The Honorable Charles, <a class="xref" href="#Page_13">13</a><br />
+<br />
+Morey, Charles, <a class="xref" href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+<br />
+Morey &amp; Johnson, <a class="xref" href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_42">42</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Newton, Edward, <a class="xref" href="#Page_13">13</a><br />
+<br />
+Nichols and Bliss, <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Palmer, Aaron, <a class="xref" href="#Page_52">52</a><br />
+<br />
+Parham Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Perry, James, <a class="xref" href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+<br />
+Phelps, Orson C., <a class="xref" href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_31">31</a><br />
+<br />
+Potter, Orlando B., <a class="xref" href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_41">41</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Remington Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Robertson, T. J. W., <a class="xref" href="#Page_47">47</a><br />
+<br />
+Rodgers, James, <a class="xref" href="#Page_15">15</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Safford &amp; Williams Makers, <a class="xref" href="#Page_22">22</a><br />
+<br />
+Saint, Thomas, <a class="xref" href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+<br />
+Secor Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Shaw &amp; Clark Sewing Machine Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_54">54</a><br />
+<br />
+Singer, Isaac Merritt, <a class="xref" href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_142">142</a> (biographical sketch)<br />
+<br />
+Singer, I. M. Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Singer Manufacturing Co., <a class="xref" href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_42">42</a><br />
+<br />
+Singer&rsquo;s Perpendicular Action Sewing Machine, <a class="xref" href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_31">31</a><br />
+<br />
+Stone, Thomas, <a class="xref" href="#Page_6">6</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span><br />
+Thimonnier, Barthelemy, <a class="xref" href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_137">137</a> (biographical sketch)<br />
+<br />
+Thomas, William, <a class="xref" href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+<br />
+Thompson, C. F., <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Turtleback Machine (Singer), <a class="xref" href="#Page_35">35</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Union Buttonhole Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Warren and Woodruff, <a class="xref" href="#Page_28">28</a><br />
+<br />
+Weatherill, Jacob, <a class="xref" href="#Page_37">37</a><br />
+<br />
+Weed Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Weisenthal, Charles F., <a class="xref" href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+<br />
+Wheeler &amp; Wilson Manufacturing Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Wheeler, Wilson and Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_41">41</a><br />
+<br />
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, <a class="xref" href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_28">28</a><br />
+<br />
+Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+<br />
+Willcox, Charles, <a class="xref" href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_48">48</a><br />
+<br />
+Willcox, James, <a class="xref" href="#Page_46">46</a><br />
+<br />
+Wilson, Allen Benjamin, <a class="xref" href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_141">141</a> (biographical sketch). (<i>See</i> Wheeler &amp; Wilson.)<br />
+<br />
+Wilson, Newton, <a class="xref" href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+<br />
+Wilson, (W. G.), Sewing Machine Company, <a class="xref" href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Woolridge, Keene, and Moore, <a class="xref" href="#Page_24">24</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Zieber, George, <a class="xref" href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a class="xref" href="#Page_33">33</a><br />
+</p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 802px;">
+<img src="images/inside_cover.jpg" width="802" height="532" alt="Inside cover." title="Inside cover." />
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<div class="tn">
+<h2><a name="Transcribers_Notes" id="Transcribers_Notes"></a>Transcriber&rsquo;s Notes:</h2>
+
+<p>Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without note.
+Footnotes have been moved to Chapter ends.
+The following typographical errors have been corrected/noted:</p>
+<div class="blockhang">
+<p>Footnote <a href="#corr_1">9</a> &ldquo;Praktisches Wissen von der N&auml;hmaschine.&rdquo;&mdash;was &ldquo;Praktisches wissen von der N&auml;hmaschine.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>p. <a href="#corr_2">11</a>&nbsp;&nbsp; &ldquo;a loop in the other&rdquo;&mdash;was &ldquo;a loop in the the other&rdquo;</p>
+<p>p. <a href="#corr_3">19</a>&nbsp;&nbsp; &ldquo;chainstitch, Thimonnier used&rdquo;&mdash;was &ldquo;chainstitch, Thimmonier used&rdquo;</p>
+<p>p. <a href="#corr_4">76</a>&nbsp;&nbsp; &ldquo;known to be in existence is&rdquo;&mdash;was &ldquo;known to be in eixstence is&rdquo;</p>
+<p>p. <a href="#corr_5">80</a>&nbsp;&nbsp; &ldquo;7501-12500,&nbsp; 1873;&rdquo;&mdash;was &ldquo;7501-12500,&nbsp; 8173;&rdquo;</p>
+<p>p. <a href="#corr_6">119</a>&nbsp; &ldquo;shaped like an open _ into which&rdquo;&mdash; A letter or symbol appears to be missing in the original between open and into.</p>
+<p>p. <a href="#corr_7">119</a>&nbsp; &ldquo;181161-220318&rdquo;&mdash;overlaps range of previous entry.</p>
+<p>p. <a href="#corr_8">130</a>&nbsp; &ldquo;June 30, 1874&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;152,618&rdquo;&mdash;was &ldquo;Jan. 30, 1874&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;152,618&rdquo;</p>
+<p>p. <a href="#corr_9">138</a>&nbsp; &ldquo;Villefranche-sur-Sa&ocirc;ne&rdquo;&mdash;was &ldquo;Ville-franche-sur-Sa&ocirc;ne&rdquo;</p>
+<p>p. <a href="#corr_10">145</a>&nbsp; &ldquo;Praktisches Wissen von der N&auml;hmaschine.&rdquo;&mdash;was &ldquo;Praktisches wissin von der N&auml;hmaschine.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>p. <a href="#corr_11">153</a>&nbsp; &ldquo;O&rsquo;Neil, John, 137618&rdquo;&mdash;was &ldquo;O&rsquo;Niel, John, 137618&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Invention of the Sewing Machine, by 
+Grace Rogers Cooper
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Invention of the Sewing Machine, by
+Grace Rogers Cooper
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Invention of the Sewing Machine
+
+Author: Grace Rogers Cooper
+
+Release Date: June 4, 2010 [EBook #32677]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Joseph Cooper, Louise Pattison
+and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
+UNITED STATES NATIONAL MUSEUM
+
+[Illustration]
+
+BULLETIN 254
+
+WASHINGTON, D.C.
+
+1968
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION PRESS
+
+
+
+
+_The Invention
+Of the Sewing Machine_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Grace Rogers Cooper_
+
+CURATOR OF TEXTILES
+MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY
+
+SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D.C. 1968
+
+
+
+
+_Publications of the United States National Museum_
+
+
+The scholarly and scientific publications of the United States National
+Museum include two series, _Proceedings of the United States National
+Museum_ and _United States National Museum Bulletin_.
+
+In these series, the Museum publishes original articles and monographs
+dealing with the collections and work of its constituent museums--The
+Museum of Natural History and the Museum of History and
+Technology--setting forth newly acquired facts in the fields of
+anthropology, biology, history, geology, and technology. Copies of each
+publication are distributed to libraries, to cultural and scientific
+organizations, and to specialists and others interested in the different
+subjects.
+
+The _Proceedings_, begun in 1878, are intended for the publication, in
+separate form, of shorter papers from the Museum of Natural History.
+These are gathered in volumes, octavo in size, with the publication date
+of each paper recorded in the table of contents of the volume.
+
+In the _Bulletin_ series, the first of which was issued in 1875, appear
+longer, separate publications consisting of monographs (occasionally in
+several parts) and volumes in which are collected works on related
+subjects. _Bulletins_ are either octavo or quarto in size, depending on
+the needs of the presentation. Since 1902 papers relating to the
+botanical collections of the Museum of Natural History have been
+published in the _Bulletin_ series under the heading _Contributions from
+the United States National Herbarium_ and, since 1959, in _Bulletins_
+titled "Contributions from the Museum of History and Technology," have
+been gathered shorter papers relating to the collections and research of
+that Museum.
+
+This work forms volume 254 of the _Bulletin_ series.
+
+  Frank A. Taylor
+  _Director, United States National Museum_
+
+  For sale by Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office
+  Washington, D.C. 20402--Price $2.75
+
+
+
+
+_Contents_
+
+
+   Preface                                                   vii
+
+   Acknowledgments                                          viii
+
+1. Early Efforts                                               1
+
+2. Elements of a Successful Machine                           17
+
+3. The "Sewing-Machine Combination"                           39
+
+4. Less Expensive Machines                                    43
+
+   Appendixes                                                 55
+
+     I. Notes on the Development and Commercial
+        Use of the Sewing Machine                             57
+
+    II. American Sewing-Machine Companies of the
+        19th Century                                          65
+
+   III. Chronological List of U.S. Sewing-Machine
+        Patent Models in the Smithsonian Collections         125
+
+    IV. 19th-Century Sewing Machine Leaflets in the
+        Smithsonian Collections                              134
+
+     V. A Brief History of Cotton Thread                     135
+
+    VI. Biographical Sketches                                137
+
+   Bibliography                                              144
+
+   Indexes                                                   147
+
+     Geographical Index to Companies Listed in Appendix II   149
+
+     Alphabetical Index to Patentees Listed in Appendix III  151
+
+     General Index to Chapters 1-4                           155
+
+
+
+
+_Preface_
+
+
+It had no instrument panel with push-button controls. It was not
+operated electronically or jet-propelled. But to many 19th-century
+people the sewing machine was probably as awe-inspiring as a space
+capsule is to their 20th-century descendants. It was expensive, but,
+considering the work it could do and the time it could save, the cost
+was more than justified. The sewing machine became the first widely
+advertised consumer appliance, pioneered installment buying and patent
+pooling, and revolutionized the ready-made clothing industry. It also
+weathered the protests of those who feared the new machine was a threat
+to their livelihood.
+
+The practical sewing machine is not the result of one man's genius, but
+rather the culmination of a century of thought, work, trials, failures,
+and partial successes of a long list of inventors. History is too quick
+to credit one or two men for an important invention and to forget the
+work that preceded and prodded each man to contribute his share. It is
+no discredit to Howe to state that he _did not invent the sewing
+machine_. Howe's work with the sewing machine was important, and he did
+patent certain improvements, but his work was one step along the way. It
+is for the reader to decide whether it was the turning point.
+
+Since the sewing machine has been considered by some as one of the most
+important inventions of 19th-century America, of equal importance to
+this story of the invention is the history of the sewing machine's
+development into a practical, popular commodity. Since many new
+companies blossomed overnight to manufacture this very salable item, a
+catalog list of more than one hundred and fifty of these 19th-century
+companies is included in this study. Still, the list is probably
+incomplete. Many of the companies remained in business a very short time
+or kept their activities a secret to avoid payment of royalties to
+patent holders. Evidence of these companies is difficult to find. It is
+hoped that additional information will come to light as a result of
+this initial attempt to list and date known companies. The dating of
+individual machines based on their serial numbers is also a difficult
+task. Individual company records of this type have not survived;
+however, using the commercial machines in the patent collection, for
+which we know one limiting date--the date the machine was deposited at
+the patent office--and using the records that have survived, an
+estimated date based on the serial number can be established for many of
+the better known machines.
+
+
+     _Acknowledgments_
+
+     I am greatly indebted to the late Dr. Frederick Lewton, whose
+     interest in the history of the sewing machine initiated the
+     collecting of information about it for the Smithsonian
+     Institution's Division of Textiles archives and whose out-of-print
+     booklet "A Servant in the House" prompted the writing of this work.
+     I would also like to thank Mr. Bogart Thompson of the Singer
+     Manufacturing Company for his cooperation in arranging for the gift
+     of an excellent collection of 19th-century sewing machines to the
+     Smithsonian and for allowing me to use the Singer historical files.
+     Acknowledgment is also made of the cooperation extended by The
+     Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village for permitting me to study
+     their collection of old sewing machines.
+
+     _Grace Rogers Cooper_
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter One_
+
+
+[Illustration: Figure 1.--AFTER ALMOST A CENTURY OF ATTEMPTS TO INVENT A
+MACHINE THAT WOULD SEW, the practical sewing machine evolved in the
+mid-19th century. This elegant, carpeted salesroom of the 1870s, with
+fashionable ladies and gentlemen scanning the latest model sewing
+machines, reflects the pinnacle reached by the new industry in just a
+few decades. This example, one of many of its type, is the Wheeler and
+Wilson sewing-machine offices and salesroom, No. 44 Fourteenth Street,
+Union Square, New York City. From _The Daily Graphic_, New York City,
+December 29, 1874. (Smithsonian photo 48091-A.)]
+
+
+Early Efforts
+
+To 1800
+
+For thousands of years, the only means of stitching two pieces of fabric
+together had been with a common needle and a length of thread. The
+thread might be of silk, flax, wool, sinew, or other fibrous material.
+The needle, whether of bone, silver, bronze, steel, or some other metal,
+was always the same in design--a thin shaft with a point at one end and
+a hole or eye for receiving the thread at the other end. Simple as it
+was, the common needle (fig. 2) with its thread-carrying eye had been an
+ingenious improvement over the sharp bone, stick, or other object used
+to pierce a hole through which a lacing then had to be passed.[1] In
+addition to utilitarian stitching for such things as the making of
+garments and household furnishings, the needle was also used for
+decorative stitching, commonly called embroidery. And it was for this
+purpose that the needle, the seemingly perfect tool that defied
+improvement, was first altered for ease of stitching and to increase
+production.
+
+One of the forms that the needle took in the process of adaptation was
+that of the fine steel hook. Called an _aguja_ in Spain, the hook was
+used in making a type of lace known as _punto de aguja_. During the 17th
+century after the introduction of chainstitch embroideries from India,
+this hook was used to produce chainstitch designs on a net ground.[2]
+The stitch and the fine hook to make it were especially adaptable to
+this work. By the 18th century the hook had been reduced to needle size
+and inserted into a handle, and was used to chainstitch-embroider woven
+fabrics.[3] In France the hook was called a crochet and was sharpened to
+a point for easy entry into the fabric (fig. 3). For stitching, the
+fabric was held taut on a drum-shaped frame. The hooked needle pierced
+the fabric, caught the thread from below the surface and pulled a loop
+to the top. The needle reentered the fabric a stitch-length from the
+first entry and caught the thread again, pulling a second loop through
+the first to which it became enchained. This method of embroidery
+permitted for the first time the use of a continuous length of thread.
+At this time the chainstitch was used exclusively for decorative
+embroidery, and from the French name for drum--the shape of the frame
+that held the fabric--the worked fabric came to be called tambour
+embroidery. The crochet[4] or small hooked needle soon became known as
+a tambour needle.
+
+In 1755 a new type of needle was invented for producing embroidery
+stitches. This needle had to pass completely through the fabric two
+times (a through-and-through motion) for every stitch. The inventor was
+Charles F. Weisenthal, a German mechanic living in London who was
+granted British patent 701 for a two-pointed needle (fig. 4). The
+invention was described in the patent as follows:
+
+     The muslin, being put into a frame, is to be worked with a needle
+     that has two points, one at the head, and the other point as a
+     common needle, which is to be worked by holding it with the fingers
+     in the middle, so as not to require turning.
+
+It might be argued that Weisenthal had invented the eye-pointed needle,
+since he was the first inventor to put a point at the end of the needle
+having the eye. But, since his specifically stated use required the
+needle to have two points and to be passed completely through the
+fabric, Weisenthal had no intention of utilizing the very important
+advantage that the eye-pointed needle provided, that of _not_ requiring
+the passage of the needle through the fabric as in hand sewing.
+
+While no records can be found to establish that Weisenthal's patent was
+put to any commercial use during the inventor's lifetime, the
+two-pointed needle with eye at midpoint appeared in several 19th-century
+sewing-machine inventions.
+
+The earliest of the known mechanical sewing devices produced a chain or
+tambour stitch, but by an entirely different principle than that used
+with either needle just described. Although the idea was incorporated
+into a patent, the machine was entirely overlooked for almost a century
+as the patent itself was classed under wearing apparel. It was entitled
+"An Entire New Method of Making and Completing Shoes, Boots,
+Splatterdashes, Clogs, and Other Articles, by Means of Tools and
+Machines also Invented by Me for that Purpose, and of Certain
+Compositions of the Nature of Japan or Varnish, which will be very
+advantageous in many useful Applications." This portentously titled
+British patent 1,764 was issued to an English cabinetmaker, Thomas
+Saint, on July 17, 1790. Along with accounts of several processes for
+making various varnish compositions, the patent contains descriptions of
+three separate machines; the second of these was for "stitching,
+quilting, or sewing." Though far from practical, the machine
+incorporated several features common to a modern sewing machine. It had
+a horizontal cloth plate or table, an overhanging arm carrying a
+straight needle, and a continuous supply of thread from a spool. The
+motion was derived from the rotation of a hand crank on a shaft, which
+activated cams that produced all the actions of the machine.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 2.--PRIMITIVE NEEDLE. Bronze. Egyptian (Roman
+period, 30 B.C.-A.D. 642). (Smithsonian photo 1379-A.)]
+
+One cam operated the forked needle (fig. 5) that pushed the thread
+through a hole made by a preceding thrust of the awl. The thread was
+caught by a looper and detained so that it then became enchained in the
+next loop of thread. The patent described thread tighteners above and
+below the work and an adjustment to vary the stitches for different
+kinds of material. Other than the British patent records, no
+contemporary reference to Saint's machine has ever been found. The
+stitching-machine contents of this patent was happened on by accident in
+1873.[5] Using the patent description, a Newton Wilson of London
+attempted to build a model of Saint's machine in 1874.[6] Wilson found,
+however, that it was necessary to modify the construction before the
+machine would stitch at all.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 3.--TAMBOUR NEEDLE AND FRAME, showing the method
+of forming the chainstitch, from the Diderot Encyclopedia of 1763, vol.
+II, _Plates Brodeur_, plate II. (Smithsonian photo 43995-C.)]
+
+This raised the question whether Saint had built even one machine.
+Nevertheless, the germ of an idea was there, and had the inventor
+followed through the sewing machine might have been classed an
+18th-century rather than a 19th-century contribution.
+
+
+1800-1820
+
+There is no doubt that the successful late-18th-century improvements in
+spinning and weaving methods, resulting in increased production of
+fabrics, had a great effect in spurring inventors to ideas of stitching
+by machinery. Several efforts were made during the first two decades of
+the 19th century to produce such machines.
+
+On February 14, 1804, a French patent was issued to Thomas Stone and
+James Henderson for a "new mechanical principle designed to replace
+handwork in joining the edges of all kinds of flexible material, and
+particularly applicable to the manufacture of clothing."[7] The machine
+used a common needle and made an overcast stitch in the same manner as
+hand sewing. A pair of jaws or pincers, imitating the action of the
+fingers, alternately seized and released the needle on each side of the
+fabric. The pincers were attached to a pair of arms arranged to be moved
+backward and forward by "any suitable mechanism."[8] This machine was
+capable of making curved or angular as well as straight seams, but it
+was limited to carrying a short length of thread, necessitating frequent
+rethreading. The machine may have had some limited use, but it was not
+commercially successful.
+
+On May 30 of the same year John Duncan, a Glasgow manufacturer, was
+granted British patent 2,769 for "a new and improved method of
+tambouring, or raising flowers, figures or other ornaments upon muslins,
+lawns and other cottons, cloths, or stuffs." This machine made the
+chainstitch, using not one but many hooked needles that operated
+simultaneously. The needles, attached to a bar or carrier, were pushed
+through the vertically held fabric from the upper right side, which in
+this case was also the outer side. After passing through it, they were
+supplied with thread from spools by means of peculiarly formed hooks or
+thread carriers. The thread was twisted around the needle above the
+hook, so as to be caught by it, and drawn through to the outer surface.
+The shaft of the needle was grooved on the hook side and fitted with a
+slider. This slider closed upon the retraction of the needle from the
+fabric, holding the thread in place and preventing the hook from
+catching. The fabric was stretched between two rollers set in an upright
+frame capable of sliding vertically in a second frame arranged to have
+longitudinal motion. The combination of these two motions was sufficient
+to produce any required design. The principle developed by Duncan was
+used on embroidery machines, in a modified form, for many years. Of
+several early attempts, his was the first to realize any form of
+success.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 4.--WEISENTHAL'S two-pointed needle, 1755.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 5.--SAINT'S SEWING MACHINE, 1790. (Smithsonian
+photo 42490-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 6.--CHAPMAN'S SEWING MACHINE, first eye-pointed
+needle, 1807. (Smithsonian photo 33299-K.)]
+
+A type of rope-stitching machine, which might be considered unimportant
+to this study, must be included because of its use of the eye-pointed
+needle, the needle that was to play a most important part in the later
+development of a practical sewing machine. The earliest reference to the
+use of a needle with an eye not being required to be passed completely
+through the fabric it was stitching is found in a machine invented by
+Edward Walter Chapman, for which he and William Chapman were granted
+British patent 3,078 on October 30, 1807. The machine (fig. 6) was
+designed to construct belting or flat banding by stitching together
+several strands of rope that had been laid side by side. Two needles
+were required and used alternately. One needle was threaded and then
+forced through the ropes. On the opposite side the thread was removed
+from the eye of the first needle before it was withdrawn. The second
+needle was threaded and the operation repeated. The needles could also
+be used to draw the thread, rather than push it, through the ropes with
+the same result. While being stitched, the ropes were held fast and the
+sewing frame and supporting carriage were moved manually as each stitch
+was made. Such a machine would be applicable only to the work described,
+since the necessity of rethreading at every stitch would make it
+impractical for any other type of sewing.
+
+Another early machine reported to have used the eye-pointed needle to
+form the chainstitch was invented about 1810 by Balthasar Krems,[9] a
+hosiery worker of Mayen, Germany. One knitted article produced there was
+a peaked cap, and Krems' machine was devised to stitch the turned edges
+of the cap,[10] which was suspended from wire pins on a moving wheel.
+The needle of the machine was attached to a horizontal shaft and carried
+the thread through the fabric. The loop of thread was retained by a
+hook-shaped pin to become enchained with the next loop at the reentry of
+the needle. Local history reports that this device may have been used as
+early as 1800, but the inventor did not patent his machine and
+apparently made no attempt to commercialize it. No contemporary
+references to the machine could be found, and use of the machine may
+have died with the inventor in 1813.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 7.--MADERSPERGER'S 1814 SEWING MACHINE.
+Illustration from a pamphlet by the inventor entitled _Beschreibung
+einer Naehmaschine_, Vienna, ca. 1816. (Smithsonian photo 49373.)]
+
+About the same time, Josef Madersperger, a tailor in Vienna, Austria,
+invented a sewing machine, which was illustrated (fig. 7) and described
+in a 15-page pamphlet published about 1816.[11] On May 12, 1817, a
+Vienna newspaper wrote of the Madersperger machine: "The approbation
+which his machine received everywhere has induced his Royal Imperial
+Majesty, in the year 1814, to give to the inventor an exclusive
+privilege [patent] which has already been mentioned before in these
+papers."[12] Madersperger's 1814 machine stitched straight or curving
+lines. His second machine stitched small semicircles, as shown in the
+illustration, and also small circles, egg-shaped figures, and angles of
+various degrees. The machine, acclaimed by the art experts, must
+therefore have been intended for embroidery stitching. From the
+contemporary descriptions and the illustration, the machine is judged to
+have made a couched stitch--one thread was laid on the surface of the
+fabric and stitched in place with a short thread carried by a
+two-pointed needle of the type invented by Weisenthal. Two fabrics could
+have been stitched together, but not in the manner required for
+tailoring. The machine must have had many deficiencies in the tension
+adjustment, feed, and related mechanical operations, for despite the
+published wishes for success the inventor did not put the machine into
+practical operation.[13] Years later Madersperger again attempted to
+invent a sewing machine using a different stitch (see p. 13).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 8.--AN ENGRAVING OF THIMONNIER and his sewing
+machine of 1830, from _Sewing Machine News_, 1880. (Smithsonian photo
+10569-C.)]
+
+A story persists that about 1818-1819 a machine that formed a
+backstitch, identical to the one used in hand sewing, was invented in
+Monkton, Vermont. The earliest record of this machine that this author
+has found was in the second or 1867 edition of _Eighty Years of Progress
+of the United States_; the machine is not mentioned in the earlier
+edition. The writer of the article on sewing machines states that John
+Knowles invented and constructed a sewing machine, which used a single
+thread and a two-pointed needle with the eye in the middle to form the
+backstitch. This information must have come to light after the first
+edition was published, but from where and by whom is not known. Other
+sources state that two men, Adams and Dodge, produced this machine in
+Monkton.[14] While still others credit the Reverend John Adam Dodge,
+assisted by a mechanic by the name of John Knowles, with the same
+invention in the same location.[15] Vermont historical societies have
+been unable to identify the men named or to verify the story of the
+invention.[16] The importance of the credibility of this story, if
+proved, rests in the fact that it represents the first effort in the
+United States to produce a mechanical stitching device.
+
+
+1820-1845
+
+American records of this period are incomplete as a result of the Patent
+Office fire of 1836, in which most of the specific descriptions of
+patents issued to that date were destroyed. Patentees were asked to
+provide another description of their patents so that these might be
+copied, but comparatively few responded and only a small percentage was
+restored. Thus, although the printed index of patents[17] lists Henry
+Lye as patenting a machine for "sewing leather, and so forth" on March
+10, 1826, no description of the machine has ever been located. Many
+patents whose original claim was for only a mechanical awl to pierce
+holes in leather or a clamp to hold leather for hand stitching were
+claimed as sewing devices once a practical machine had evolved. But no
+evidence has ever been found that any of these machines performed the
+actual stitching operation.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 9.--AN ADAPTED DRAWING of Hunt's sewing machine
+published by the _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 2, no. 8, 1881, to give
+some idea of its construction and operation. "The frame of the machine
+(A) rested on a base (B) that was supported by a table. The wheel (C)
+worked on a central shaft (E) and was set in motion by hand or foot
+power. On the front of the wheel (C) was a raised cam (D) into which the
+connecting rod (F) engaged to communicate motion to the vibrating arm
+(G) pivoted to the frame at (H) and carrying at the end (g) the curved
+needle (I). The take-up (J) served to tighten the thread after each
+stitch; it was connected to the vibrating arm by a rod (K). The cloth
+(L) was held in a vertical position between the fingers or nippers (M),
+which were attached to the frame. The bar (N) was toothed on one side
+(n) to mesh with the geared wheel (o). The lever (P) was operated by a
+cam (m) upon the periphery of the wheel (C), and carried the vertical
+pawl (S) which meshed with the ratchet (T) and moved the cloth as each
+stitch was made. The shuttle (U) worked in its race (V); it was operated
+by the vibrating lever (W), the upper end of which engaged into a groove
+on the face of the wheel (C)." (Smithsonian photo 42554.)]
+
+The first man known to have put a mechanical sewing device into
+commercial operation was Barthelemy Thimonnier,[18] a French tailor.
+After several years of fruitless effort he invented a machine for which
+he received a French patent in 1830.[19] The machine (fig. 8) made a
+chainstitch by means of a barbed or hooked needle. The vertically held
+needle worked from an overhanging arm. The needle thrust through the
+fabric laid on the horizontal table, caught a thread from the thread
+carrier and looper beneath the table, and brought a loop to the surface
+of the fabric. When the process was repeated the second loop became
+enchained in the first. The needle was moved downward by the depression
+of a cord-connected foot treadle and was raised by the action of a
+spring. The fabric was fed through the stitching mechanism manually, and
+a regular rate of speed had to be maintained by the operator in order to
+produce stitches of equal length. A type of retractable thimble or
+presser foot was used to hold the fabric down as required.
+
+The needle, and the entire machine, was basically an attempt to
+mechanize tambour embroidery, with which the inventor was quite
+familiar. Although this work, which served as the machine's inspiration,
+was always used for decorative embroidery, Thimonnier saw the
+possibilities of using the stitch for utilitarian purposes. By 1841 he
+had 80 machines stitching army clothing in a Paris shop. But a mob of
+tailors, fearing that the invention would rob them of a livelihood,
+broke into the shop and destroyed the machines. Thimonnier fled Paris,
+penniless. Four years later he had obtained new financial help, improved
+his machine to produce 200 stitches a minute, and organized the first
+French sewing-machine company.[20] The Revolution of 1848, however,
+brought this enterprise to an early end. Before new support could be
+found other inventors had appeared with better machines, and
+Thimonnier's was passed by. In addition to the two French patents
+Thimonnier also received a British patent with his associate Jean Marie
+Magnin in 1848 and one in the United States in 1850. He achieved no
+financial gain from either of these and died a poor man.
+
+While Thimonnier was developing his chainstitch machine in France,
+Walter Hunt,[21] perhaps best described as a Yankee mechanical genius,
+was working on a different kind of sewing machine in the United States.
+Sometime between 1832 and 1834 he produced at his shop in New York a
+machine that made a lockstitch.[22] This stitch was the direct result of
+the mechanical method devised to produce the stitching and represented
+the first occasion an inventor had not attempted to reproduce a hand
+stitch. The lockstitch required two threads, one passing through a loop
+in the other and both interlocking in the heart of the seam. At the time
+Hunt did not consider the sewing machine any more promising than several
+other inventions that he had in mind, and, after demonstrating that the
+machine would sew, he sold his interest in it for a small sum and did
+not bother to patent it.
+
+A description--one of few ever published--and sketch of a rebuilt Hunt
+machine (fig. 9) appeared in an article in the _Sewing Machine News_ in
+1881.[23] The important element in the Hunt invention was an eye-pointed
+needle working in combination with a shuttle carrying a second thread.
+Future inventors were thus no longer hampered by the erroneous idea that
+the sewing machine must imitate the human hands and fingers. Though
+Hunt's machine stitched short, straight seams with speed and accuracy,
+it could not sew curved or angular work. Its stitching was not
+continuous, but had to be reset at the end of a short run. The validity
+of Hunt's claim as the inventor of the lockstitch and the prescribed
+method of making it was argued many times, especially during the Elias
+Howe patent suits of the 1850s. The decision against Hunt was not a
+question of invention,[24] but one of right to ownership or control.
+Hunt did little to promote his sewing machine and sold it together with
+the right to patent to George A. Arrowsmith.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 10.--MADERSPERGER'S 1839 sewing machine.
+Madersperger's machine consisted of two major parts: the frame, which
+held the material, and the stitching mechanism, called the hand. The
+hand shown here is an original model. (_Photo courtesy of Technisches
+Museum fuer Industrie und Gewerbe, Vienna._)]
+
+For over fifteen years, from the mid-1830s to the early 1850s, the
+machine dropped out of sight. When the sewing-machine litigation
+developed in the 1850s, the I. M. Singer company searched out the Hunt
+machine, had the inventor rebuild one,[25] and attempted to use this to
+break the Howe patent. The plan did not work. The Honorable Charles
+Mason, Patent Commissioner, reported:
+
+     When the first inventor allows his discovery to slumber for
+     eighteen years, with no probability of its ever being brought into
+     useful activity, and when it is only resurrected to supplant and
+     strangle an invention which has been given to the public, and which
+     has been made practically useful, all reasonable presumption should
+     be in favor of the inventor who has been the means of conferring
+     the real benefit upon the world.[26]
+
+Hunt's machine was an invention of the 1830s, but only because of the
+patent litigation was it ever heard of again.
+
+During the time that a potentially successful sewing machine was being
+invented and forgotten in America, Josef Madersperger of Austria made a
+second attempt to solve the mechanical stitching problem. In 1839 he
+received a second patent on a machine entirely different from his 1814
+effort. It was similar to Hunt's in that it used an eye-pointed needle
+and passed a thread through the loop of the needle-thread--the thread
+carried by the needle--to lock the stitch. Madersperger's machine was a
+multiple-needle quilting machine. The threaded needles penetrated the
+fabric from below and were retracted, leaving the loops on the surface.
+A thread was drawn through the loops to produce what the inventor termed
+a chain. The first two stitches were twisted before insertion into the
+next two, producing a type of twisted lockstitch. The mechanism for
+feeding the cloth was faulty, however, and the inventor himself stated
+in the specifications that much remained to perfect and simplify it
+before its general application. (This machine was illustrated [fig. 10]
+in the _Sewing Machine Times_, October 25, 1907, and mistakenly referred
+to as the 1814 model.) Madersperger realized no financial gain from
+either venture and died in a poorhouse in 1850.
+
+The first efforts of the 1840s reflected the work of the earlier years.
+In England, Edward Newton and Thomas Archbold invented and patented a
+machine on May 4, 1841, for tambouring or ornamenting the backs of
+gloves. Their machine used a hook on the upper surface to catch the loop
+of thread, but an eye-pointed needle from underneath was used to carry
+the thread up through the fabric. The machine was designed to use three
+needles for three rows of chainstitching, if required. Although the
+machine was capable of stitching two fabrics together, it was never
+contemplated as a sewing machine in the present use of the term. Their
+British patent 8,948 stated it was for "improvements in producing
+ornamental or tambour work in the manufacture of gloves."
+
+The earliest American patent specifically recorded as a sewing machine
+was U.S. patent 2,466, issued to John J. Greenough on February 21, 1842.
+His machine was a short-thread model that made both the running stitch
+and the backstitch. It used the two-pointed needle, with eye at
+mid-length, which was passed back and forth through the material by
+means of a pair of pincers on each side of the seam. The pincers opened
+and closed automatically. The material to be sewn was held in clamps
+which moved it forward between the pincers to form a running stitch or
+moved it alternately backward and forward to produce a backstitch. The
+clamps were attached to a rack that automatically fed the material at a
+predetermined rate according to the length of stitch required. Since the
+machine was designed for leather or other hard material, the needle was
+preceded by an awl, which pierced a hole. The machine had a weight to
+draw out the thread and a stop-motion to stop the machinery when a
+thread broke or became too short. The needle was threaded with a short
+length of thread and required frequent refilling. Only straight seams
+could be stitched. The feed was continuous to the length of the rack
+bar; then it had to be reset. The motions were all obtained from the
+revolution of a crank. It is not believed that any machines, other than
+the patent model (fig. 11), were ever made. Little is known of Greenough
+other than his name.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 11.--GREENOUGH'S PATENT MODEL, 1842. (Smithsonian
+photo 45525-G.)]
+
+In the succeeding year, on March 4, 1843, Benjamin W. Bean received the
+second American sewing-machine patent, U.S. patent 2,982. Like
+Greenough's, this machine made a running stitch, but by a different
+method. In Bean's machine the fabric was fed between the teeth of a
+series of gears. Held in a groove in the gears was a peculiarly shaped
+needle bent in two places to permit it to be held in place by the gears
+and with a point at one end and the eye at the opposite end, as in a
+common hand needle. The action of the gears caused the fabric to be
+forced onto and through the threaded needle. Indefinite straight seams
+could be stitched as the fabric was continuously forced off the needle
+by the turning gears (fig. 12). A screw clamp held the machine to a
+table or other work surface. Machines of this and similar types
+reportedly had some limited usage in the dyeing and bleaching mills,[27]
+where lengths of fabric were stitched together before processing.
+Improved versions of Bean's machine were to be patented in subsequent
+years in England and America. The same principle was also used in home
+machines two decades later.
+
+The third sewing-machine patent on record in the United States Patent
+Office is patent 3,389 issued on December 27, 1843, to George H.
+Corliss, better remembered as the inventor and manufacturer of the
+Corliss steam engine. It was his interest in the sewing machine,
+however, that eventually directed his attention to the steam engine.
+
+Corliss had a general store at Greenwich, New York. A customer's
+complaint that the boots he had purchased split at the seams made
+Corliss wonder why someone had not invented a machine to sew stronger
+seams than hand-sewn ones. He considered the problem of sewing leather,
+analyzing the steps required to make the saddler's stitch, one popularly
+used in boots and shoes. He concluded that a sewing machine to do this
+type of work must first perforate the leather, then draw the threads
+through the holes, and finally secure the stitches by pulling the
+threads tight. The machine Corliss invented (fig. 13) was of the same
+general type as Greenough's, except that two two-pointed needles were
+required to make the saddler's stitch. This stitch was composed of two
+running stitches made simultaneously, one from each side.[28] The
+machine used two awls to pierce the holes through which the needles
+passed; finger levers approached from opposite sides, seized the
+needles, pulled the threads firmly, and passed the needles through to
+repeat the operation. The working model that Corliss completed could
+unite two pieces of heavy leather at the rate of 20 stitches per minute.
+
+Corliss, lacking capital, went to Providence, Rhode Island, in 1844 to
+secure backers. After months without success, he was forced to abandon
+the sewing machine and accept employment as a draftsman and designer.
+Though he considered himself a failure, this change of employment placed
+him on the threshold of his more rewarding life work, improvement of the
+steam engine.[29]
+
+On July 22, 1844, James Rodgers was granted U.S. patent 3,672, the
+fourth American sewing-machine patent. The patent model is not known to
+be in existence, but this machine was of minor importance for it offered
+only a negligible change in the Bean running-stitch machine. The same
+corrugated gears were used but were placed in different positions so
+that one bend in the needle was eliminated. When Bean secured a reissue
+of his patent in 1849, he had adapted it to use a straight needle.
+Rodgers' machine is not known to have had any commercial success,
+although this type of machine experienced a brief period of popularity.
+By the early 1900s, however, the running-stitch machine was so little
+known that when one was illustrated in the _Sewing Machine Times_ in
+1907[30] it excited more curiosity than any of the other early types.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 12.--BEAN'S PATENT MODEL, 1843. (Smithsonian photo
+42490-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 13.--CORLISS' PATENT MODEL, 1843. The piece of
+wood in the foreground is an enlarged model of the needle. (Smithsonian
+photo 42490.)]
+
+On December 7, 1844, the same year that Rodgers secured his American
+patent, John Fisher and James Gibbons were granted British patent 10,424
+for "certain improvements in the manufacture of figured or ornamental
+lace, or net, or other fabrics." From this superficial description of
+its work, the device might seem to be just another tambouring machine.
+It was not. Designed specifically for ornamental stitching, the machine
+made a two-thread stitch using an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle.[31]
+Several sets of needles and shuttles worked simultaneously. The needles
+were secured to a needlebar placed beneath the fabric. The shuttles were
+pointed at both ends to pass through each succeeding new loop formed by
+the needles. Each shuttle was activated by two vibrating arms worked by
+cams. Each needle was curved in the form of a bow, and in addition to
+the eye at the point each also had a second eye at the bottom of the
+curve. The shape of the needle together with the position of the eyes
+permitted the pointed shuttle, carrying the second thread, to pass
+freely through the loop in the ascending needle thread. The fabric was
+carried by a pair of cloth rollers, capable of sliding in a horizontal
+plane in both a lateral and a lengthwise direction. These combined
+movements were sufficient to enable the operator to produce almost every
+embroidered design. The ornamenting, which might be a yarn, cord, or
+gimp, was carried by the shuttle thread. There was no tension on the
+shuttle thread, which was held in place by the thread from the needle.
+The stitch produced was a form of couching.[32] It was in no sense a
+lockstitch. Fisher, who was the inventor, readily admitted at a later
+date that he had not had the slightest idea of producing a sewing
+machine, in the utilitarian meaning of the term. Although it has not
+been established that this machine was ever put into practical
+operation, Fisher's invention was to have a far-reaching effect on the
+development of the sewing machine in England.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] CHARLES M. KARCH, _Needles: Historical and Descriptive_ (12 Census
+U.S., vol. X, 1902), pp. 429-432.
+
+[2] FLORENCE LEWIS MAY, _Hispanic Lace and Lace Making_ (New York,
+1939), pp. 267-271.
+
+[3] Diderot's _L'Encyclopedie, ou dictionnaire raisonne des sciences,
+des arts et des metiers ..._, vol. II (1763), Plates Brodeur, plate II.
+
+[4] The term "crochet," as used today, became the modern counterpart of
+the Spanish _punto de aguja_ about the second quarter of the 19th
+century.
+
+[5] _Sewing Machine News_ (1880), vol. 1, no. 7, p. 2.
+
+[6] This model of Saint's machine was bequeathed by Mr. Wilson to the
+South Kensington Museum, London, England.
+
+[7] _Sewing Machine News_ (1880), vol. 1, no. 8, p. 2.
+
+[8] Ibid.
+
+[9] ERICH LUTH, _Ein Mayener Strumpfwirker, Balthasar Krems, 1760-1813,
+Erfinder der Naehmaschine_, p. 10, states that the machine used an
+eye-pointed needle. WILHELM RENTERS, _Praktisches Wissen von der
+Naehmaschine_, p. 4, states that Krems used a hooked needle. Renters
+probably mistook the hooked retaining pin for the needle.
+
+[10] Dr. Dahmen, Burgermeister of Mayen, stated in a letter of October
+8, 1963, that the original Krems machine was turned over to the
+officials of Mayen by Krems' descendants about the turn of the century.
+He verified that the machine used an eye-pointed needle. About 1920 the
+machine was placed in the Eifelmuseum in Genovevaburg; some of the
+unessential parts were restored. The machine now at this museum is the
+one pictured in Luth's book. A replica of the machine is in the
+Deutsches Museum, Munich, Germany.
+
+[11] JOSEF MADERSPERGER, _Beschreibung einer Naehmaschine_ (Vienna, ca.
+1816). The exact date of this small booklet is not known. In the booklet
+Madersperger reports that he had received a patent in 1814 for his
+_first_ machine adapted to straight sewing. However, the machine
+described and illustrated in this booklet was one that could stitch
+semicircles and small figures. In _Kunst und Gewerbeblatt_, a periodical
+(Munich, Germany, 1817, pp. 336-338), reference is made to the
+Madersperger machine and a statement to the effect that the inventor had
+published a leaflet describing his machine. The leaflet referred to is
+believed to be the one under discussion. For this reason it must have
+been published between 1814 and 1817, therefore ca. 1816. The only copy
+of this booklet known to this author is in the New York Public Library.
+It was probably not known to authors Luth and Renters. The author wishes
+to thank Miss Rita J. Adrosko of her staff for her important help in
+translating these German publications.
+
+[12] _Sewing Machine Times_ (1907), vol. 26, no. 865, p. 1.
+
+[13] There are no known models of these early Madersperger machines in
+existence. Although the _Sewing Machine Times_ reported in the 1907
+issue that the 1814 sewing machine was then on exhibition in the Museum
+of the Vienna Polytechnic, the illustration shown was of Madersperger's
+1839 machine. In a letter from the director of the Technisches Museum
+fuer Industrie und Gewerbe in Vienna, received in 1962, it was stated
+that the original 1814 Madersperger machine was in their museum. The
+photographs that were sent, however, were of the 1839 machine. This
+machine is entirely different from the 1814-1817 machine, as can readily
+be seen by the reader (figs. 7 and 10).
+
+[14] JOHN P. STAMBAUGH, _A History of the Sewing Machine_ (Hartford,
+Conn., 1872), p. 13; _Sewing Machine News_ (July 1880), vol. 1, no. 12,
+p. 4.
+
+[15] "Sewing Machines," _Johnson's Universal Cyclopaedia_ (New York,
+1878), vol. 4, p. 205. The 1874 edition does not include this reference
+to Rev. John Adam Dodge.
+
+[16] Letters to the author from the Vermont Historical Society (Nov. 13,
+1953) and the Bennington Historical Museum and Art Gallery (May 2,
+1953).
+
+[17] EDMUND BURKE. Commissioner of Patents, _List of Patents for
+Inventions and Designs Issued by the United States from 1790 to 1847_
+(Washington, 1847).
+
+[18] See Barthelemy Thimonnier's biographical sketch, p. 137.
+
+[19] French patent issued to Barthelemy Thimonnier and M. Ferrand (who
+was a tutor at l'Ecole des Mines, Saint-Etienne, and helped finance the
+patent), July 17, 1830.
+
+[20] The company was located at Villefranche-sur-Saone, but no name is
+recorded. See J. Granger, _Thimonnier et la machine a coudre_ (1943), p.
+16.
+
+[21] See Walter Hunt's biographical sketch, p. 138.
+
+[22] The earliest known reference in print to Walter Hunt's sewing
+machine is in _Sewing by Machinery: An Exposition of the History of
+Patentees of Various Sewing Machines and of the Rights of the Public_
+(I. M. Singer & Co., 1853). A more detailed story of Hunt's invention is
+in _Sewing Machine News_ (1880-81), vol. 2, no. 2, p. 4; no. 4, p. 5;
+and no. 8, pp. 3 and 8.
+
+[23] Vol. 2, no. 8, p. 3.
+
+[24] In the opinion and decision of C. Mason, Commissioner of the Patent
+Office, offered on May 24, 1854, for the Hunt vs. Howe interference
+suit, Mason stated: "He [Hunt] proves that in 1834 or 1835 he contrived
+a machine by which he actually effected his purpose of sewing cloth with
+considerable success."
+
+[25] The rebuilt machine, according to a letter to the author from B. F.
+Thompson of the Singer company, is believed to have been one of the
+machines lost in a Singer factory fire at Elizabethport, N.J., in 1890.
+
+[26] Op. cit. (footnote 24).
+
+[27] EDWARD H. KNIGHT, _Sewing Machines_, vol. 3 of _Knight's American
+Mechanical Dictionary_.
+
+[28] A seam using the saddler's stitch appears as a neat line of
+touching stitches on both sides. Even when made by hand, it is sometimes
+misidentified by the casual observer as the lockstitch because of the
+uniformity of both sides. If the saddler's stitch was formed of threads
+of two different colors, the even stitches on one side of the seam and
+the odd stitches on the reverse side would be of one color, and vice
+versa.
+
+[29] _The Life and Works of George H. Corliss_, privately printed for
+Mary Corliss by the American Historical Society, 1930. The Corliss
+family records were turned over to the Baker Library, Harvard
+University. In a letter addressed to this author by Robert W. Lovett of
+the Manuscripts Division on August 2, 1954, it was reported that there
+was a record on their Corliss card to the effect that a model of his
+sewing machine, received with the collection, was turned over to the
+Massachusetts Institute of Technology; however, Mr. Lovett also stated
+that from a manuscript memoir of Mr. Corliss that it would seem that he
+developed only the one machine--the patent model. In a letter dated
+November 15, 1954, Stanley Backer, assistant professor of mechanical
+engineering, stated that after extensive inquiries they were unable to
+locate the model at M.I.T. In 1964, Dr. Robert Woodbury, of M.I.T.,
+turned over to the Smithsonian Institution the official copies of the
+Corliss drawings and the specifications which had been awarded to the
+inventor by the Patent Office. It is possible that this may have been
+the material noted on the Harvard University card as having been
+transferred to M.I.T.
+
+[30] _Sewing Machine Times_ (July 10, 1907), vol. 26, no. 858, p. 1.
+
+[31] This is the earliest known patent using the combination of an
+eye-pointed needle and a shuttle to form a stitch.
+
+[32] In embroidery, couching is the technique of laying a decorative
+thread on the surface of the fabric and stitching it into place with a
+second less-conspicuous thread.
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter Two_
+
+
+[Illustration: Figure 14.--HOWE'S PREPATENT MODEL of 1845, and the box
+used by the inventor to carry the machine to England in 1847.
+(Smithsonian photo 45506-B.)]
+
+Elements of a Successful Machine
+
+The requirements for producing a successful, practical sewing machine
+were a support for the cloth, a needle to carry the thread through the
+fabric and a combining device to form the stitch, a feeding mechanism to
+permit one stitch to follow another, tension controls to provide an even
+delivery of thread, and the related mechanism to insure the precise
+performance of each operation in its proper sequence. Weisenthal had
+added a point to the eye-end of the needle, Saint supported the fabric
+by placing it in a horizontal position with a needle entering
+vertically, Duncan successfully completed a chainstitch for embroidery
+purposes, Chapman used a needle with an eye at its point and did not
+pass it completely through the fabric, Krems stitched circular caps with
+an eye-pointed needle used with a hook to form a chainstitch, Thimonnier
+used the hooked needle to form a chainstitch on a fabric laid
+horizontally, and Hunt created a new stitch that was more readily
+adapted to sewing by machine than the hand stitches had been, but,
+although each may have had the germ of an idea, a successful machine had
+not evolved. There were to be hundreds of patents issued in an attempt
+to solve these and the numerous minor problems that would ensue. But the
+problems were solved. And, in spite of its Old World inception, the
+successful sewing machine can be credited as an American invention.
+
+Although the invention of the practical sewing machine, like most
+important inventions, was a many-man project, historians generally give
+full credit to Elias Howe, Jr. Though such credit may be overly
+generous, Howe's important role in this history cannot be denied.
+
+Elias Howe, Jr., was born on a farm near Spencer, Massachusetts, but he
+left home at an early age to learn the machinist's trade.[33] After
+serving an apprenticeship in Lowell, he moved to Boston. In the late
+1830s, while employed in the instrument shop of Ari Davis, Howe is
+reported to have overheard a discussion concerning the need for a
+machine that would sew. In 1843, when illness kept him from his job for
+days at a time, he remembered the conversation and the promises of the
+rich reward that reputedly awaited the successful inventor. Determined
+to invent such a machine, he finally managed to produce sufficient
+results to interest George Fisher in buying a one-half interest in his
+proposed invention. By April 1845, Howe's machine (fig. 14) was used to
+sew all the seams of two woolen suits for men's clothing. He continued
+to demonstrate his machine but found that interest was, at best,
+indifferent.
+
+Nevertheless, Howe completed a second machine (fig. 15), which he
+submitted with his application for a patent. The fifth United States
+patent (No. 4,750) for a sewing machine was issued to him on September
+10, 1846. The machine used a grooved and curved eye-pointed needle
+carried by a vibrating arm, with the needle supplied with thread from a
+spool. Loops of thread from the needle were locked by a thread carried
+by a shuttle, which was moved through the loop by means of
+reciprocating drivers. The cloth was suspended in a vertical position,
+impaled on pins projecting from a baster plate, which moved
+intermittently under the needle by means of a toothed wheel. The length
+of each stitching operation depended upon the length of the baster
+plate, and the seams were necessarily straight. When the end of the
+baster plate reached the position of the needle, the machine was
+stopped. The cloth was removed from the baster plate, which was moved
+back to its original position. The cloth was moved forward on the pins,
+and the seam continued.
+
+In his patent specifications, Howe claimed the following:
+
+     1. The forming of the seam by carrying a thread through the cloth
+     by means of a curved needle on the end of a vibrating arm, and the
+     passing of a shuttle furnished with its bobbin, in the manner set
+     forth, between the needle and the thread which it carried, under
+     combination and arrangement of parts substantially the same with
+     that described.
+
+     2. The lifting of the thread that passes through the needle-eye by
+     means of the lifting-rod, for the purpose of forming a loop of
+     loose thread that is to be subsequently drawn in by the passage of
+     the shuttle, as herein fully described, said lifting-rod being
+     furnished with a lifting pin, and governed in its motion by the
+     guide-pieces and other devices, arranged and operating
+     substantially as described.
+
+     3. The holding of the thread that is given out by the shuttle, so
+     as to prevent its unwinding from the shuttle-bobbin after the
+     shuttle has passed through the loop, said thread being held by
+     means of the lever or slipping-piece, as herein made known, or in
+     any other manner that is substantially the same in its operation
+     and result.
+
+     4. The manner of arranging and combining the small lever with the
+     sliding box, in combination with the spring-piece, for the purpose
+     of tightening the stitch as the needle is retracted.
+
+     5. The holding of the cloth to be sewed by the use of a
+     baster-plate furnished with points for that purpose, and with holes
+     enabling it to operate as a rack in the manner set forth, thereby
+     carrying the cloth forward and dispensing altogether with the
+     necessity of basting the parts together.
+
+The five claims, which were allowed Howe in his patent, have been quoted
+to show that he did not claim the invention of the eye-pointed needle,
+for which he has so often been credited. The court judgment[34] that
+upheld Howe's claim to his patented right to control the use of the
+eye-pointed needle in combination with a shuttle to form a lockstitch
+was mistakenly interpreted by some as verifying control of the
+eye-pointed needle itself.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 15.--HOWE'S PATENT MODEL, 1846. (Smithsonian photo
+45525-B.)]
+
+After patenting his invention, Howe spent three discouraging years in
+both the United States and in England trying to interest manufacturers
+in building his sewing machine, under license. Finally, for L250
+sterling, he sold the British patent rights to William Thomas and
+further agreed to adapt the machine to Thomas' manufacture of umbrellas
+and corsets.[35] This did not prove to be a financial success for Howe
+and by 1849 he was back in the United States, once again without funds.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 16.--AN ENLARGEMENT of the stitching area.
+(Smithsonian photo 45525-B.)]
+
+On his return, Howe was surprised to find that other inventors were
+engaged in the sewing-machine problem and that sewing machines were
+being manufactured for sale. The sixth United States sewing-machine
+patent (No. 5,942) had been issued to John A. Bradshaw on November 28,
+1848, for a machine specifically stated as correcting the defects in the
+E. Howe patent. Bradshaw did not purport that his machine was a new
+invention. His specifications read:
+
+     The curved needle used in Howe's machine will not by itself form
+     the loop in the thread, which is necessary for the flying bobbin,
+     with its case, to pass through, and has, therefore, to be aided in
+     that operation by a lifting-pin, with the necessary mechanism to
+     operate it. This is a very bungling device, and is a great
+     incumbrance to the action of the machine, being an impediment in
+     the way of introducing the cloth to be sewed, difficult to keep
+     properly adjusted, and very frequently gets entangled between the
+     thread and the needle, by which the latter is frequently broken.
+     This accident happens very often, not withstanding all the
+     precaution which it is possible for the most careful operator to
+     exercise; and inasmuch as the delay occasioned thereby is very
+     considerable, and the needles costly and difficult to replace, it
+     is therefore very important that their breaking in this manner be
+     prevented, which in my machine is done in the most effectual manner
+     by dispensing with the lifting-pin altogether, the loop for the
+     flying bobbin to pass through being made with certainty and of the
+     proper form by means of my angular needle moved in a particular
+     manner just before the flying-bobbin case is thrown. The shuttle
+     and its bobbin for giving off the thread in Howe's machine are very
+     defective ... my neat and simple bobbin-case ... gives off its
+     thread with certainty and uniformity.... The baster-plate in the
+     Howe machine is very inconvenient and troublesome ... in my machine
+     ... the clamp ... is a very simple and efficient device.... The
+     Howe machine is stationary, and the baster-plate or cloth-holder
+     progressive. The Bradshaw machine is progressive and the
+     cloth-holder stationary.
+
+Bradshaw's patent accurately described some of the defects of the Howe
+machine, but other inventors were later to offer better solutions to the
+problems.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 17.--MOREY AND JOHNSON sewing machine, 1849.
+Below: The machine is marked with the name of its maker, Safford &
+Williams. The number 49 is a serial number. Missing parts have been
+replaced with plastic. (Smithsonian photo 48400; brass plate: 48400-H.)]
+
+Although the Bradshaw machine was not in current manufacture, a machine
+based on it received the seventh United States sewing-machine patent.
+Patent 6,099 was issued to Charles Morey and Joseph B. Johnson on
+February 6, 1849. Their machine (fig. 17) was being offered for sale
+even before the patent was issued.
+
+This was the first American patent for a chainstitch machine. The stitch
+was made by an eye-pointed needle carrying the thread through the
+fabric; the thread was detained by a hook until the loop was enchained
+by the succeeding one. The fabric was held vertically by a baster plate
+in a manner similar to the Howe machine. Although not claimed in the
+patent description, the Morey and Johnson machine also had a bar device
+for stripping the cloth from the needle. This bar had a slight motion
+causing a yielding pressure to be exerted on the cloth. Although the
+patent was not granted until February 6, 1849, the application had been
+filed in April of the previous year. The machine was featured in the
+_Scientific American_ on January 27, 1849 (fig. 18):
+
+     Morey and Johnson Machine--These machines are very accurately
+     adjusted in all their parts to work in harmony, without this they
+     would be of no use. But they are now used in most of the Print
+     Works and Bleach Works in New England, and especially by the East
+     Boston Flour Company. It sews about one yard per minute, and we
+     consider it superior to the London Sewing Machine the specification
+     of which is in our possession. It [Morey and Johnson] is more
+     simple--and this is a great deal.... The price of a machine and
+     right to use $135.[36]
+
+An improvement in the Morey and Johnson machine was patented by Jotham
+S. Conant for which he was issued a patent on May 8, 1849. Conant's
+machine offered a slight modification of the cloth bar and of the method
+of keeping the cloth taut during the stitching operation. No successful
+use of it is known.
+
+A second improvement of the Morey and Johnson patent was also issued on
+May 8, 1849; this United States patent (No. 6,439) was to John Bachelder
+for the first continuous, but intermittent, sewing mechanism. As shown
+in the patent model (fig. 19), his clothholder consisted of an endless
+belt supported by and running around three or any other suitable number
+of cylindrical rollers. A series of pointed wires projected from the
+surface of the belt near the edge immediately adjacent to the needle.
+The wires could be placed at regular or irregular distances as required.
+The shaft of one of the cylindrical rollers, which supported the
+endless clothholder, carried a ratchet wheel advanced by the action of a
+pawl connected to the end of the crankshaft by a small crankpin, whose
+position or distance from the axis of rotation of the shaft could be
+adjusted.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 18.--A MOREY AND JOHNSON sewing machine as
+illustrated in _Scientific American_, January 27, 1849. (Smithsonian
+photo 45771.)]
+
+By this adjustment the extent of the vertical travel of the impelling
+pawl was regulated to control the length of the stitch. A spring catch
+kept the ratchet wheel in place at the end of each forward rotation of
+the wheel by the pawl. A roller placed over the endless belt at its
+middle roller pressed the cloth onto the wire points. A curved piece of
+metal was bent over and down upon the top of the belt so that the cloth,
+as it was sewed, was carried toward and against the piece by the belt.
+The cloth rose upon and over the piece and was separated from the
+points. When the machine was in motion the cloth was carried forward,
+passed under the needle, was stitched, and finally, passed the separator
+and off the belt. A vertically reciprocating, straight, eye-pointed
+needle, a horizontal supporting surface, and a yielding cloth presser
+were all used, but none were claimed as part of the patent. These were
+later specifically claimed in reissues of this patent. Bachelder's one
+specific claim, the endless feed belt, was not limited to belt feeding
+only. As he explained in the patent, a revolving table or a cylinder
+might be substituted.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 19.--BACHELDER'S PATENT MODEL, 1849. (Smithsonian
+photo 45572).]
+
+Bachelder did not manufacture machines, but his patent was sold in the
+mid-1850s to I. M. Singer.[37] It eventually became one of the most
+important patents to be contributed to the "Sewing-Machine Combination,"
+a patent pool, which is discussed in more detail on pages 41 and 42.
+
+While new ideas and inventors continued to provide the answers to some
+of the sewing-machine problems, Elias Howe began a series of patent
+suits to sustain the rights that he felt were his. Since his interest
+had never been in constructing machines for sale, it was absolutely
+essential for Howe to protect his royalty rights in order to realize any
+return from his patent. He was reported[38] to have supervised the
+construction of 14 sewing machines at a shop[39] on Gold Street in New
+York toward the close of 1850. Sworn contemporary testimony indicates
+that the machines were of no practical use.[40] Elias stated, in his
+application for his patent extension,[41] that he made only one machine
+in 1850-51. In 1852 he advertised[42] territorial rights and machines,
+but apparently did not realize any financial success until he sold a
+half interest in his patent to George Bliss in November 1852.[43] Bliss
+later began manufacturing machines that he initially sold as "Howe's
+Patent"; however, these machines were substantially different from the
+basic Howe machine.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 20.--BLODGETT & LEROW SEWING MACHINE, 1850, as
+manufactured by A. Bartholf, New York; the serial number of the machine
+is 19. At right, an original brass plate from the same type of machine
+with needle arm and presser foot and arm, serial number 119; the plate,
+however, does not fit the machine correctly. (Smithsonian photo 48440-D;
+brass plate: 48440-K.)]
+
+On May 18, 1853, Elias Howe granted his first royalty license to
+Wheeler, Wilson & Company. Within a few months licenses were also
+granted to Grover & Baker; A. Bartholf; Nichols & Bliss; J. A. Lerow;
+Woolridge, Keene, and Moore; and A. B. Howe, the brother of Elias. These
+licenses granted the manufacturer the right to use any part of the Howe
+patent,[44] but it did not mean that the machines were Elias Howe
+machines. When a royalty license was paid, the patent date and sometimes
+the name was stamped onto the machine. For this reason, these machines
+are sometimes mistakenly thought to be Elias Howe machines. They are
+not.
+
+Howe was also prevented from manufacturing a practical machine unless he
+paid a royalty to other inventors. Three of the major manufacturers and
+Howe resolved their differences by forming the "Sewing Machine
+Combination." Although Howe did not enter the manufacturing competition
+for many years, he profited substantially from the royalty terms of the
+combination. In 1860, he applied for and received a seven-year extension
+on his patent.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 21.--BLODGETT & LEROW SEWING MACHINE, 1850,
+stamped with the legend "Goddard, Rice & Co., Makers, Worcester, Mass."
+and the serial number 37. Below: An original brass plate marked "No.
+38"; this plate fits the machine perfectly. (Smithsonian photo 48440-E;
+brass plate: 48440-J.)]
+
+There were Howe family machines for sale during this period, but these
+were the ones that Amasa Howe had been manufacturing since 1853. The
+machine was an excellent one and received the highest medal for sewing
+machines, together with many flattering testimonials, at the London
+International Exhibition in 1862. After the publication of this award
+the demand for (Amasa) Howe sewing machines was greatly increased at
+home and abroad. Elias took this opportunity to gain entry into the
+manufacturing business by persuading Amasa to let him build a factory at
+Bridgeport, Connecticut, and manufacture the (Amasa) Howe machines. Two
+years passed before the factory was completed, and Amasa's agents were
+discouraged. The loss could have been regained, but the machines
+produced at Bridgeport were not of the quality of the earlier machines.
+Amasa attempted to rebuild the Bridgeport machines, but finally
+abandoned them and resumed manufacturing machines in New York under his
+own immediate supervision.[45] Elias formed his own company and
+continued to manufacture sewing machines. In 1867 he requested a second
+extension of his patent, but the request was refused. Elias Howe died in
+October of the same year.
+
+Meanwhile, another important sewing machine of a different principle had
+also been patented in 1849. This was the machine of Sherburne C.
+Blodgett, a tailor by trade, who was supported financially by John A.
+Lerow. United States patent 6,766 was issued to both men on October 2,
+1849. In the patent, the machine was termed as "our new 'Rotary Sewing
+Machine'." The shuttle movement was continuous, revolving in a circle,
+rather than reciprocating as in the earlier machines. Automatic tension
+was initiated, restraining the slack thread from interference with the
+point of the needle.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 22.--WILSON'S PREPATENT MODEL for his
+reciprocating-shuttle machine, 1850. (Smithsonian photo 45525-A.)]
+
+The Blodgett and Lerow machine was built by several shops. One of the
+earliest was the shop of Orson C. Phelps on Harvard Place in Boston.
+Phelps took the Blodgett and Lerow machine to the sixth exhibition of
+the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association in September 1850 and
+won a silver medal and this praise, "This machine performed admirably;
+it is an exceedingly ingenious and compact machine, able to perform
+tailor's sewing beautifully and thoroughly."[46] Although Phelps had won
+the earliest known premium for a sewing machine, and although the
+machine was produced commercially to a considerable extent (figs. 20 and
+21), one outstanding flaw in its operation could not be overlooked. As
+the shuttle passed around the six-inch circular shuttle race, it put a
+twist in the thread (or took one out if the direction was reversed) at
+each revolution. This caused a constant breaking of the thread, a
+condition that could not be rectified without changing the principle of
+operation. Such required changes were later to lead I. M. Singer,
+another well-known name, into the work of improving this machine.
+
+Also exhibited at the same 1850 mechanics fair was the machine of Allen
+B. Wilson. Wilson's machine received only a bronze medal, but his
+inventive genius was to have a far greater effect on the development of
+the practical sewing machine than the work of Blodgett and Lerow. A. B.
+Wilson[47] was one of the ablest of the early inventors in the field of
+mechanical stitching, and probably the most original.
+
+Wilson, a native of Willett, New York, was a young cabinetmaker at
+Adrian, Michigan, in 1847 when he first conceived of a machine that
+would sew. He was apparently unaware of parallel efforts by inventors in
+distant New England. After an illness, he moved to Pittsfield,
+Massachusetts, and pursued his idea in earnest. By November 1848 he had
+produced the basic drawings for a machine that would make a lockstitch.
+The needle, piercing the cloth, left a loop of thread below the seam. A
+shuttle carrying a second thread passed through the loop, and as the
+tension was adjusted a completed lockstitch was formed (fig. 22).
+Wilson's shuttle was pointed on both ends to form a stitch on both its
+forward and backward motion, a decided improvement over the shuttles of
+Hunt and Howe, which formed stitches in only one direction. After each
+stitch the cloth was advanced for the next stitch by a sliding bar
+against which the cloth was held by a stationary presser. While the
+needle was still in the cloth and holding it, the sliding bar returned
+for a fresh grip on the cloth.
+
+Wilson made a second machine, on the same principle, and applied for a
+patent. He was approached by the owners of the Bradshaw 1848 patent,
+who claimed control of the double-pointed shuttle. Although this claim
+was without justification, as can be seen by examining the Bradshaw
+patent specifications, Wilson did not have sufficient funds to fight the
+claim. In order to avoid a suit, he relinquished to A. P. Kline and
+Edward Lee, a one-half interest in his U.S. patent 7,776 which was
+issued on November 12, 1850 (fig. 23).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 23.--WILSON'S PATENT MODEL, 1850. (Smithsonian
+photo 45504-H.)]
+
+Inventor Wilson had been associated with Kline and Lee (E. Lee & Co.)
+for only a few months, when, on November 25, 1850, he agreed to sell his
+remaining interest to his partners for $2,000. He retained only limited
+rights for New Jersey and for Massachusetts. The sale was fruitless for
+the inventor, as no payment was ever made. How much money E. E. Lee &
+Co. realized from the Wilson machine is difficult to determine, but they
+ran numerous ads in the 1851 and 1852 issues of _Scientific American_. A
+typical one reads:
+
+     A. B. Wilson's Sewing Machine, justly allowed to be the cheapest
+     and best now in use, patented November 12, 1850; can be seen on
+     exhibition at 195 and 197 Broadway (formerly the Franklin House,
+     Room 23, third floor) or to E. E. Lee & Co., Earle's Hotel. Rights
+     for territory or machines can be had by applying to George R.
+     Chittenden, Agent.[48]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 24.--WILSON'S PREPATENT MODEL for his rotary hook,
+1851. (Smithsonian photo 45506-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 25.--WILSON'S ROTARY-HOOK PATENT MODEL, 1851.
+(Smithsonian photo 45505-B.)]
+
+Another reads:
+
+     A. B. Wilson's Sewing Machine ... the best and only practical
+     sewing machine--not larger than a lady's work box--for the trifling
+     sum of $35.[49]
+
+Wilson severed relations with Lee and Kline in early 1851 shortly after
+meeting Nathaniel Wheeler, who was to become his partner in a happier,
+more profitable enterprise involving the sewing machine.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 26.--WILSON'S stationary-bobbin patent model,
+1852; a commercial machine was used since Wheeler, Wilson, Co. had begun
+manufacturing machines the previous year. (Smithsonian photo 45504-B.)]
+
+Wilson, with his two partners, was occupying a room in the old Sun
+Building at 128 Fulton Street, when Wheeler, on a business trip to New
+York City, learned of the Wilson sewing machine. Wheeler examined the
+machine, saw its possibilities, and at once contracted with E. Lee & Co.
+to make 500 of them. At the same time he engaged Wilson to go with him
+to Watertown, Connecticut, to perfect the machine and supervise its
+manufacture. Meanwhile, Wilson had been working on a substitute for the
+shuttle. He showed his model of the device, which became known as the
+rotary hook, to Wheeler who was so convinced of its superiority that he
+decided to develop this new machine and leave Wilson's first machine to
+the others, who, by degrees, had become its owners.
+
+Wilson now applied all his effort to improving the rotary hook, for
+which he received his second patent on August 12, 1851 (figs. 24 and
+25). Wheeler, his two partners Warren and Woodruff, and Wilson now
+formed a new copartnership--Wheeler, Wilson, and Company. They began the
+manufacture of the machines under the patent, which combined the rotary
+hook and a reciprocating bobbin. The rotary hook extended or opened more
+widely the loop of the needle thread, while a reciprocating bobbin
+carried its thread through the extended loop. To avoid litigation which
+the reciprocating bobbin might have caused, Wilson contrived his third
+outstanding invention--the stationary bobbin. This was a feature of the
+first machine produced by the new company in 1851, though the patent
+for the stationary bobbin was not issued until June 15, 1852 (fig. 26).
+
+In all reciprocating-shuttle machines a certain loss of power is
+incurred in driving forward, stopping, and bringing back the shuttle at
+each stitch; also, the machines are rather noisy, owing to the striking
+of the driver against the shuttle at each stroke. These objections were
+removed by Wilson's rotary hook and stationary bobbin. The locking of
+the needle thread with the bobbin thread was accomplished, not by
+driving a shuttle through the loop of the needle thread, but by passing
+that loop under the bobbin. The driving shaft carried the circular
+rotary hook, one of the sewing machine's most beautiful contrivances.
+The success of the machine is indicated in an article that appeared in
+the June 1853 issue of _Scientific American_:
+
+     There are 300 of these machines now in operation in various parts
+     of the country, and the work which they can perform cannot be
+     surpassed.... The time must soon come when every private family
+     that has much sewing to do, will have one of these neat and perfect
+     machines; indeed many private families have them now.... The price
+     of one all complete is $125; every machine is made under the eye of
+     the inventor at the company's machine shop, Watertown, Connecticut,
+     so that every one is warranted ... agreement between Mr. Howe and
+     Messrs. Wheeler, Wilson & Co., so every customer will be perfectly
+     protected....[50]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 27.--WILSON'S four-motion-feed patent model, 1854,
+is not known to be in existence; this is a commercial machine of the
+period. The plate is stamped "A. B. Wilson, Patented Aug. 12, 1851,
+Watertown, Conn., No. 1...." (Smithsonian photo 45504.)]
+
+This agreement was important to sales, as Elias Howe was known to have
+sued purchasers of machines, as well as rival inventors and companies.
+
+The business was on a substantial basis by October 1853, and a stock
+company was formed under the name of Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing
+Company.[51] A little more than a year later, on December 19, 1854,
+Wilson's fourth important patent (U.S. patent 12,116)--for the
+four-motion cloth feed--was issued to him (fig. 27). In this
+development, the flat-toothed surface in contact with the cloth moved
+forward carrying the cloth with it; then it dropped a little, so as not
+to touch the cloth; next it moved backward; then in the fourth motion it
+pushed up against the cloth and was ready to repeat the forward
+movements. This simple and effective feed method is still used today,
+with only minor modifications, in almost every sewing machine. This feed
+with the rotary hook and the stationary circular-disk bobbin, completed
+the essential features of Wilson's machine. It was original and
+fundamentally different from all other machines of that time.
+
+The resulting Wheeler and Wilson machine made a lockstitch by means of a
+curved eye-pointed needle carried by a vibrating arm projecting from a
+rock shaft connected by link and eccentric strap with an eccentric on
+the rotating hook shaft. This shaft had at its outer end the rotary
+hook, provided with a point adapted to enter the loop of needle thread.
+As the hook rotated, it passed into and drew down the loop of
+needle-thread, which was held by means of a loop check, while the point
+of the hook entered a new loop. When the first loop was cast off--the
+face of the hook being beveled for that purpose--it was drawn upward by
+the action of the hook upon the loop through which it was then passing.
+During the rotation of the hook each loop was passed around a disk
+bobbin provided with the second thread and serving the part of the
+shuttle in other machines. The four-motion feed was actuated in this
+machine by means of a spring bar and a cam in conjunction with the
+mandrel.
+
+From the beginning, Wheeler and Wilson had looked beyond the use of the
+sewing machine solely by manufacturers and had seen the demand for a
+light-running, lightweight machine for sewing in the home. Wilson's
+inventions lent themselves to this design, and Wheeler and Wilson led
+the way to the introduction of the machine as a home appliance. Other
+manufacturers followed.
+
+When the stock company was formed, Mr. Wilson retired from active
+participation in the business at his own request. His health had not
+been good, and a nervous condition made it advisable for him to be freed
+from the responsibility of daily routine. During this period Wilson's
+inventive contributions to the sewing machine continued as noted, and in
+addition he worked on inventions concerning cotton picking and
+illuminating gases.
+
+Wheeler and Wilson's foremost competitor in the early years of
+sewing-machine manufacture was the Singer Company, which overtook them
+by 1870 and finally absorbed the entire Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing
+Company in 1905.
+
+The founder of this most successful 19th-century company was Isaac
+Singer, a native of Pittstown, New York.[52] Successively a mechanic, an
+actor, and an inventor, Singer came to Boston in 1850 to promote his
+invention of a machine for carving printers' wooden type. He exhibited
+the carving machine in Orson Phelps' shop, where the Blodgett and Lerow
+machines were being manufactured.
+
+Because the carving machine evoked but little interest, Singer turned
+his attention to the sewing machine as a device offering considerable
+opportunity for both improvement and financial reward. Phelps liked
+Singer's ideas and joined with George Zieber, the publisher who had been
+backing the carving-machine venture, to support Singer in the work of
+improving the sewing machine. His improvements in the Blodgett and Lerow
+machine included a table to hold the cloth horizontally rather than
+vertically (this had been used by Bachelder and Wilson also), a yielding
+vertical presser foot to hold the cloth down as the needle was drawn up,
+and a vertically reciprocating straight needle driven by a rotary,
+overhanging shaft.
+
+The story of the invention and first trial of the machine was told by
+Singer in the course of a patent suit sometime later:
+
+     I explained to them how the work was to be fed over the table and
+     under the presser-foot, by a wheel, having short pins on its
+     periphery, projecting through a slot in the table, so that the work
+     would be automatically caught, fed and freed from the pins, in
+     place of attaching and detaching the work to and from the baster
+     plate by hand, as was necessary in the Blodgett machine.
+
+     Phelps and Zieber were satisfied that it would work. I had no
+     money. Zieber offered forty dollars to build a model machine.
+     Phelps offered his best endeavors to carry out my plan and make the
+     model in his shop; if successful we were to share equally. I worked
+     at it day and night, sleeping but three or four hours a day out of
+     the twenty-four, and eating generally but once a day, as I knew I
+     must make it for the forty dollars or not get it at all.
+
+     The machine was completed in eleven days. About nine o'clock in the
+     evening we got the parts together and tried it; it did not sew; the
+     workmen exhausted with almost unremitting work, pronounced it a
+     failure and left me one by one.
+
+     Zieber held the lamp, and I continued to try the machine, but
+     anxiety and incessant work had made me nervous and I could not get
+     tight stitches. Sick at heart, about midnight, we started for our
+     hotel. On the way we sat down on a pile of boards, and Zieber
+     mentioned that the loose loops of thread were on the upper side of
+     the cloth. It flashed upon me that we had forgot to adjust the
+     tension on the needle thread. We went back, adjusted the tension,
+     tried the machine, sewed five stitches perfectly and the thread
+     snapped, but that was enough. At three o'clock the next day the
+     machine was finished. I took it to New York and employed Mr.
+     Charles M. Keller to patent it. It was used as a model in the
+     application for the patent.[53]
+
+The first machine was completed about the last of September 1850. The
+partners considered naming the machine the "Jenny Lind," after the
+Swedish soprano who was then the toast of America. It was reported[54]
+to have been advertised under that name when the machine was first
+placed on the market, but the name was soon changed to "Singer's
+Perpendicular Action Sewing Machine" or simply the "Singer Sewing
+Machine"--a name correctly anticipated to achieve a popularity of its
+own.
+
+According to the contract made by the partners, the hurriedly built
+first machine was to be sent to the Patent Office with an application in
+the name of Singer and Phelps. An application was made between the end
+of September 1850 and March 14, 1851, as Singer refers to it briefly in
+the application formally filed on April 16, 1851, stating, "My present
+invention is of improvements on a machine heretofore invented by me and
+for which an application is now pending."[55]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 28.--SINGER'S PATENT MODEL, 1851; a commercial
+machine was used, bearing the serial number 22. (Smithsonian photo
+45572-D.)]
+
+In late December 1850 Singer had bought Phelps' interest in the company.
+Whether the first application was later abandoned by Singer or whether
+it was rejected is not known,[56] but a patent on the first application
+was never issued. The final disposition of this first machine has
+remained a mystery.[57]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 29.--SINGER'S PERPENDICULAR ACTION sewing machine,
+an engraving from _Illustrated News_, June 25, 1853, which states: "The
+sewing machine has, within the last two years acquired a wide celebrity,
+and established its character as one of the most efficient labor saving
+instruments ever introduced to public notice.... We must not forget to
+call attention to the fact that this instrument is peculiarly calculated
+for female operatives. They should never allow its use to be monopolized
+by men." (Smithsonian photo 48091-D.)]
+
+A few machines were manufactured in late 1850 and early 1851, and these
+attracted considerable attention; orders began to be received in advance
+of production. The pending patent application did not delay the
+manufacture, and a number of machines were sold before August 12, 1851,
+when the patent was granted. The patent model is shown in figure 28.[58]
+It made a lockstitch by means of a straight eye-pointed needle and a
+reciprocating shuttle. The patent claims, as quoted from the
+specifications, were as follows:
+
+     1. Giving to the shuttle an additional forward motion after it has
+     been stopped to close the loop, as described, for the purpose of
+     drawing the stitch tight, when such additional motion is given at
+     and in combination with the feed motion of the cloth in the reverse
+     direction, and the final upward motion of the needle, as described,
+     so that the two threads shall be drawn tight at the same time, as
+     described.
+
+     2. Controlling the thread during the downward motion of the needle
+     by the combination of a friction-pad to prevent the slack above the
+     cloth, with the eye on the needle-carrier for drawing back the
+     thread, for the purposes and in the manner substantially as
+     described.
+
+     3. Placing the bobbin from which the needle is supplied with thread
+     on an adjustable arm attached to the frame, substantially as
+     described, when this is combined with the carrying of the said
+     thread through an eye or guide attached to and moving with the
+     needle-carrier, as described, whereby any desired length of thread
+     can be given for the formation of the loop without varying the
+     range of motion of the needle, as described.
+
+The feeding described in the Singer patent was "by the friction surface
+of a wheel, whose periphery is formed with very fine grooves, the edges
+of which are slightly serrated, against which the cloth is pressed by a
+spring plate or pad." Although claimed by the inventor in the
+handwritten specifications, it was not allowed as original.
+
+The machines manufactured by the Singer company (fig. 29) were
+duplicates of the patent model. These machines were quite heavy and
+intended for manufacturing rather than for family use in the home.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 30.--I. M. SINGER & CO. NEW YORK SHOWROOM of the
+mid-1850s, as illustrated in _Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper_,
+August 29, 1857; only manufacturing machines are shown in this
+illustration. (Smithsonian photo 48091-B.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 31.--HUNT AND WEBSTER'S SEWING-MACHINE MANUFACTORY
+exhibition and salesroom in Boston, as illustrated in _Ballou's
+Pictorial_, July 5, 1856; only manufacturing machines are shown.
+(Smithsonian photo 45771-A.)]
+
+Singer enjoyed demonstrating the machine and showed it to church and
+social groups and even at circuses; this personal association then
+encouraged him to improve its reliability and convenience. He developed
+a wooden packing case which doubled as a stand for the machine and a
+treadle to allow it to be operated by foot. Because of the dimensions of
+the packing case, Singer put the pivot of the treadle toward its center,
+about where the instep of the foot would rest. This produced the
+heel-and-toe action treadle, a familiar part of the sewing machine until
+its replacement by the electric motor. Both hands were freed to guide
+and arrange the cloth that was being stitched. Singer also added a
+flywheel to smooth out the treadle action and later an iron stand with a
+treadle wide enough for both feet. The treadle had been in use for two
+years before a rival pointed out that it might have been patented. To
+Singer's chagrin it was then too late for patent laws did not permit
+patenting a device that had been in public use.
+
+A new obstacle appeared in the Singer company's path when Howe demanded
+$25,000 for infringement of his patent. Singer and Zieber decided to
+fight, enlisting the legal aid of Edward Clark, a lawyer and financier.
+Howe's action was opposed on the basis of Hunt's machine of 1834, which
+they stated had anticipated Howe's invention.
+
+While they were resisting, Howe sued three firms that were using and
+selling Singer machines. The court order required the selling firms and
+the purchasers to provide an account of the profits accrued from the
+sale and the use of the sewing machines and restrained the firms from
+selling the machines during the pendency of the suit.[59] As a result of
+this action, a number of Singer's rivals purchased licenses from Howe
+and advertised that anyone could sell their machines without fear of a
+suit. This gave them a great competitive advantage, and Singer and
+Clark[60] decided it was best to seek a settlement with Howe. On July 1,
+1854, they paid him $15,000 and took out a license.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 32.--SINGER'S NEW FAMILY SEWING MACHINE,
+illustration from a brochure dating about 1858 or 1859 which states: "A
+few months since, we came to the conclusion that the public taste
+demanded a sewing machine for family purposes more exclusively; a
+machine of smaller size, and of a lighter and more elegant form; a
+machine decorated in the best style of art, so as to make a beautiful
+ornament in the parlor or boudoir; a machine very easily operated, and
+rapid in working.... To supply this public want, we have just produced,
+and are now prepared to receive orders for, 'Singer's new Family Sewing
+Machine.'" (Smithsonian photo 48091-H.)]
+
+In spite of this defeat, the Singer company could claim several
+important improvements to the sewing machine and the acquisition of the
+patents rights to the Morey and Johnson machine of 1849, which gave them
+control of the spring or curved arm to hold the cloth by a yielding
+pressure. Although this point had not been claimed in the 1849 patent,
+the established principle of patent law allowed that a novel device
+introduced and used in a patented machine could be covered by a reissue
+at any time during the life of the patent. Upon becoming owners of the
+Morey and Johnson patent, Singer applied for a reissue which covered
+this type of yielding pressure. It was granted on June 27, 1854. The
+Singer company's acquisition of the Bachelder patent had given them
+control of the yielding pressure bar also.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 33.--SINGER FAMILY MACHINE, 1858, head only.
+(Smithsonian photo 45524-F.)]
+
+Singer's aggressive selling had begun to overcome the public's suspicion
+of sewing machines. He pioneered in the use of lavishly decorated
+sewing-machine showrooms when the company offices were expanded in the
+mid-1850s (fig. 30). These were rich with carved walnut furniture,
+gilded ornaments, and carpeted floors, places in which Victorian women
+were not ashamed to be seen. The machines were demonstrated by pretty
+young women. The total effect was a new concept of selling, and Singer
+became the drum major of a new and coming industry that had many
+followers (see fig. 31).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 34.--GROVER AND BAKER'S PATENT MODEL, 1851.
+(Smithsonian photo 32003-G.)]
+
+The first, light, family sewing machine by the Singer company was not
+manufactured until 1858 (figs. 32 and 33). Comparatively few of these
+machines were made as they proved to be too small and light. The men in
+the shop dubbed the machine "The Grasshopper," but it was officially
+called the new Family Sewing Machine or the Family Machine.[61] Because
+of its shape, Singer company brochures of the 1920s referred to it as
+the Turtleback Machine.
+
+Since the cost of sewing machines was quite high and the average family
+income was low, Clark suggested the adoption of the hire-purchase plan.
+Into the American economy thus came the now-familiar installment
+buying.
+
+Singer and Clark continued to be partners until 1863 when a corporation
+was formed. At this time Singer decided to withdraw from active work. He
+received 40 percent of the stock and retired to Paris and later to
+England, where he died in 1875.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 35.--THIS GROVER AND BAKER CABINET-STYLE SEWING
+MACHINE of 1856 bears the serial number 5675 and the patent dates
+February 11, 1851, June 22, 1852, February 22, 1853, and May 27, 1856.
+(Smithsonian photo 45572-F.)]
+
+By the mid-1850s the basic elements of a successful, practical sewing
+machine were at hand, but the continuing court litigation over rival
+patent rights seemed destined to ruin the economics of the new industry.
+It was then that the lawyer of the Grover and Baker company, another
+sewing-machine manufacturer of the early 1850s, supplied the solution.
+Grover and Baker were manufacturing a machine that was mechanically
+good, for this early period. William O. Grover was another Boston
+tailor, who, unlike many others, was convinced that the sewing machine
+was going to revolutionize his chosen trade. Although the sewing
+machines that he had seen were not very practical, he began in 1849 to
+experiment with an idea based on a new kind of stitch. His design was
+for a machine that would take both its threads from spools and eliminate
+the need to wind one thread upon a bobbin. After much experimenting, he
+proved that it was possible to make a seam by interlocking two threads
+in a succession of slipknots, but he found that building a machine to do
+this was a much more difficult task. It is quite surprising that while
+he was working on this idea, he did not stumble upon a good method to
+produce the single-thread (as opposed to Grover and Baker's two-thread)
+chainstitch, later worked out by another. Grover was working so intently
+on the use of two threads that apparently no thought of forming a stitch
+with one thread had a chance to develop.
+
+At this time Grover became a partner with another Boston tailor,
+William E. Baker, and on February 11, 1851, they were issued U.S. patent
+No. 7,931 for a machine that did exactly what Grover had set out to do;
+it made a double chainstitch with two threads both carried on ordinary
+thread spools. The machine (figs. 34 and 35) used a vertical eye-pointed
+needle for the top thread and a horizontal needle for the underthread.
+The cloth was placed on the horizontal platform or table, which had a
+hole for the entry of the vertical needle. When this needle passed
+through the cloth, it formed a loop on the underside. The horizontal
+needle passed through this loop forming another loop beyond, which was
+retained until the redescending vertical needle enchained it, and the
+process repeated. The slack in the needle thread was controlled by means
+of a spring guide. The cloth was fed by feeding rolls and a band.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 36.--GROVER'S PATENT MODEL FOR THE FIRST PORTABLE
+CASE, 1856. The machine in the case is a commercial machine of 1854,
+bearing the serial number 3012 and the patent dates "Feby 11, 1851, June
+22, 1852, Feby 22, 1853." Powered by a single, foot-shaped treadle that
+was connected by a removable wooden pitman, it also could be turned by
+hand. (Smithsonian photo 45525-D.)]
+
+A company was organized under the name of Grover and Baker Sewing
+Machine Company, and soon the partners took Jacob Weatherill, mechanic,
+and Orlando B. Potter, lawyer (who became the president), into the firm.
+Potter contributed his ability as a lawyer in lieu of a financial
+investment and handled the several succeeding patents of Grover and
+Baker. These patents were primarily for mechanical improvements such as
+U.S. patent No. 9,053 issued to Grover and Baker on June 22, 1852, for
+devising a curved upper needle and an under looper[62] to form the
+double-looped stitch which became known as the Grover and Baker stitch.
+One of the more interesting of the patents, however, was for the box or
+sewing case for which Grover was issued U.S. patent No. 14,956 on May
+27, 1856. The inventor stated "that when open the box shall constitute
+the bed for the machine to be operated upon, and hanging the machine
+thereto to facilitate oiling, cleansing, and repairs without removing it
+from the box." It was the first portable sewing machine (fig. 36).
+
+Though the Grover and Baker company manufactured machines using a
+shuttle and producing the more common lockstitch, both under royalty in
+their own name and also for other smaller companies, Potter was
+convinced that the Grover and Baker stitch was the one that eventually
+would be used in both family and commercial machines. He, as president,
+directed the efforts of the company to that end. When the basic patents
+held by the "Sewing-Machine Combination" (discussed on pp. 41-42) began
+to run out in the mid-1870s, dissolving its purpose and lowering the
+selling price of sewing machines, the Grover and Baker company began a
+systematic curtailing of expenses and closing of branch offices. All the
+patents held by the company and the business itself were sold to
+another company.[63] But the members of the Grover and Baker company
+fared well financially by the strategic move.
+
+The Grover and Baker machine and its unique stitch did not have a great
+influence on the overall development of the mechanics of machine sewing.
+The merits of a double-looped stitch--its elasticity and the taking of
+both threads from commercial spools--were outweighed by the bulkiness of
+the seam and its consumption of three times as much thread as the
+lockstitch required. Machines making a similar type of stitch have
+continued in limited use in the manufacture of knit goods and other
+products requiring an elastic seam. But, more importantly, Grover and
+Baker's astute Orlando B. Potter placed their names in the annals of
+sewing-machine history by his work in forming the "Combination,"
+believed to be the first "trust" of any prominence.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[33] See biographical sketch, pp. 138-141.
+
+[34] _In the Matter of the Application of Elias Howe, Jr. for an
+Extension of His Sewing Machine Patent Dated September 10, 1846_, New
+York, 1860, with attachments A and B, U.S. Patent Office. [L.C. call no.
+TJ 1512.H6265]
+
+[35] It is interesting to note that when William Thomas applied for the
+British patent of the Howe machine (issued Dec. 1, 1846), the courts
+would not allow the claim for the combination of the eye-pointed needle
+and shuttle to form a stitch, due to the Fisher and Gibbons patent of
+1844. For more details on Howe's years in England see his biographical
+sketch, pp. 138-141.
+
+[36] The machine referred to as the London Sewing Machine is the British
+patent of the Thimonnier machine. This patent was applied for by Jean
+Marie Magnin and was published by _Newton's London Journal_, vol. 39, p.
+317, as Magnin's invention.
+
+[37] The exact date is not known; however, it was prior to 1856 as the
+patent was included in the sewing-machine patent pool formed that year.
+
+[38] JAMES PARTON, _History of the Sewing Machine_, p. 12, (originally
+published in the _Atlantic Monthly_, May 1867), later reprinted by the
+Howe Machine Company as a separate.
+
+[39] _Sewing Machine Times_ (Feb. 25, 1907), vol. 17, no. 382, p. 1,
+"His [Bonata's] shop was on Gold Street, New York, near the Bartholf
+shop, where Howe was building some of his early machines."
+
+[40] _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 3, no. 5, p. 5, Sept. 1881-Jan. 1882.
+"History of the Sewing Machine."
+
+[41] Op. cit. (footnote 34).
+
+[42] _New York Daily Tribune_, Jan. 15, 1852, p. 2.
+
+[43] See Howe's biographical sketch, p. 141.
+
+[44] Op. cit. (footnote 34). Attachments A and B are copies of Judge
+Sprague's decisions.
+
+[45] _Sewing Machine Journal_ (July 1887), pp. 93-94.
+
+[46] _Report of the Sixth Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association, in the City of Boston, September 1850_ (Boston,
+1850).
+
+[47] See biographical sketch, pp. 141-142.
+
+[48]_Scientific American_ (Dec. 6, 1851), vol. 7, no. 12, p. 95.
+
+[49] Ibid. (Sept. 20, 1851), vol. 7, no. 1, p. 7.
+
+[50] Ibid. (June 4, 1853), vol. 7, no. 38, p. 298
+
+[51] J. D. VAN SLYCK, _New England Manufactures and Manufactories_, vol.
+2, pp. 672-682.
+
+[52] See his biographical sketch, pp. 142-143.
+
+[53] CHESTER MCNEIL, _A History of the Sewing Machine_ in Union Sales
+Bulletin, vol. 3, Union Special Sewing Machine Co., Chicago, Illinois,
+pp. 83-85. 1903.
+
+[54] _Sewing Machine Times_ (Aug. 25, 1908), vol. 18, no. 418.
+
+[55] Singer gives this limited description of the first machine, with
+detailed improvements for which he was then applying for a patent: "In
+my previous machine, to which reference has been made, the bobbin was
+carried by the needle-carrier, and hence the motion of the needle had to
+be equal to the length of thread required to form the loop, which was
+objectionable, as in many instances this range of motion was
+unnecessarily long for all other purposes...." Quoted from U.S. patent
+8,294 issued to Isaac M. Singer, Aug. 12, 1851. It should be noted that
+in some instances there was a considerable lapse of time from the date a
+patent application was made until the patent was issued. In this case
+the handwritten specifications were dated March 14, 1851, and the formal
+Patent Office receipt was dated April 16, 1851.
+
+[56] If a patent was not approved, for any reason, the records were
+placed in an "Abandoned File." In 1930 Congress authorized the disposal
+of the old "Abandoned Files," requiring them to be kept for twenty years
+only. There are no Singer Company records giving an account of the first
+patent application.
+
+[57] Its whereabouts was unknown as early as 1908, as stated in the
+_Sewing Machine Times_ (Aug. 25, 1908), vol. 18, no. 418. Models of
+abandoned patents frequently remained at the Patent Office.
+Approximately 76,000 models were ruined in a Patent Office fire in 1877.
+In 1908 over 3000 models of abandoned patents were sold at auction.
+Either incident could account for the machine's disappearance.
+
+[58] The patent model of 8,294 is a machine that bears the serial number
+22; it was manufactured before April 18, 1851, the date it was recorded
+as received by the Patent Office.
+
+[59] William R. Bagnall, in "Contributions to American Economic
+History," vol. 1 (1908), MS, Harvard School of Business Library.
+
+[60] Singer purchased Phelps' interest in the company in 1851 and sold
+it to Edward Clark.
+
+[61] This first, family sewing machine should not be confused in name
+with a model brought out in the sixties. The name of this first, family
+machine was in the sense of a new "family" sewing machine. In 1859 a
+"Letter A" family machine was introduced. Thus in 1865 when the Singer
+Company brought out another family machine they called it the "New"
+Family Sewing Machine. Both the first-style Family machine and the
+Letter A machine are illustrated in _Eighty Years of Progress of the
+United States_ (New York, 1861), vol. 2, p. 417, and discussed in an
+article, "The Place and Its Tenants," in the _Sewing Machine Times_
+(Dec. 25, 1908), vol. 27, no. 893.
+
+[62] A looper on the underside in place of the horizontal needle.
+
+[63] Domestic Sewing Machine Company. See _Union Special Sewing Machine
+Co. Sales Bulletin_, vol. 3, ch. 15, pp. 58-59.
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter Three_
+
+
+[Illustration:
++----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
+|   A PARTIAL STATEMENT FROM RECORDS OF "THE SEWING-MACHINE COMBINATION,"    |
+|             SHOWING NUMBER OF SEWING-MACHINES LICENSED ANNUALLY            |
+|                       UNDER THE _ELIAS HOWE_ PATENT.                       |
++-----+--------+---------+---------+---------+------+-------+-------+--------+
+|NAME |Wheeler |I. M.    |The      |Grover & |A. B. |Leavitt|Ladd & |Bartholf|
+|OF   |&       |Singer   |Singer   |Baker    |Howe  |S. M.  |Webster|S. M.   |
+|MANU-|Wilson  |& Co.    |Manufac- |S. M. Co.|S. M. |Co.    |S. M.  |Co.     |
+|FACT-|Mfg. Co.|         |turing   |         |Co.   |       |Co.    |        |
+|URER.|        |         |Co.      |         |      |       |       |        |
++-----+--------+---------+---------+---------+------+-------+-------+--------+
+|1853 |799     |810      |....     |657      |....  |28     |100    |135     |
+|1854 |756     |879      |....     |2,034    |60    |217    |268    |55      |
+|1855 |1,171   |883      |....     |1,144    |53    |152    |73     |31      |
+|1856 |2,210   |2,564    |....     |1,952    |47    |235    |180    |35      |
+|1857 |4,591   |3,630    |....     |3,680    |133   |195    |453    |31      |
+|1858 |7,978   |3,594    |....     |5,070    |179   |75     |490    |203     |
+|1859 |21,306  |10,953   |....     |10,280   |921   |213    |1,788  |747     |
+|1860 |25,102  |13,000(a)|....     |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |        |
+|1861 |18,556  |16,000(a)|....     |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1862 |28,202  |18,396   |....     |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1863 |29,778  |....     |20,030   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1864 |40,062  |....     |23,632   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1865 |39,157  |....     |26,340   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
+|1866 |50,132  |....     |30,960   |(b)      |(b)   |(b)    |(b)    |(b)     |
++-----+--------+---------+---------+---------+------+-------+-------+--------+
+
++-------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
+|    A PARTIAL STATEMENT SHOWING NUMBER OF SEWING-MACHINES LICENSED ANNUALLY    |
+|                         FROM 1867 TO 1876 INCLUSIVE.                          |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+| NAME OF MANUFACTURER.      |  1867.   |  1868.  |  1869.  |  1870.  |  1871.  |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+|The Singer Manufacturing Co.|43,053    |59,629   |86,781   |127,833  |181,260  |
+|Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co.   |38,055    |(b)      |78,866   |83,208   |128,526  |
+|Grover & Baker S. M. Co.    |32,999    |35,000(a)|35,188   |57,402   |50,838   |
+|Weed Sewing-Machine Co.     |3,638     |12,000   |19,687   |35,002   |39,655   |
+|Howe Sewing-Machine Co.     |11,053    |35,000(a)|45,000(a)|75,156   |134,010  |
+|A. B. Howe     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |20,051   |
+|B. P. Howe     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Willcox & Gibbs S. M.  Co.  |14,152    |15,000   |17,201   |28,890   |30,127   |
+|Wilson (W. G.)   "      "   |....      |....     |....     |....     |21,153   |
+|American B. H. & S. M. Co.  |....      |....     |7,792    |14,573   |20,121   |
+|Florence S. M. Co.          |10,534    |12,000   |13,661   |17,660   |15,947   |
+|Shaw & Clark  S. M. Co.     |2,692     |3,000    |....     |....     |....     |
+|Gold Medal    "  "  "       |....      |....     |....     |8,912    |13,562   |
+|Davis         "  "  "       |....      |....     |....     |....     |11,568   |
+|Domestic      "  "  "       |....      |....     |....     |....     |10,397   |
+|Finkle & Lyon Mfg. Co. and  |2,488     |2,000    |1,339    |2,420    |7,639    |
+|  Victor.                   |          |         |         |         |         |
+|AEtna Sewing-Machine Co.     |2,958     |3,500    |4,548    |5,806    |4,720    |
+|Blees   "      "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |4,557    |
+|Elliptic "     "     "      |3,185     |....     |....     |....     |4,555    |
+|Empire  "      "     "      |2,121     |5,000    |8,700    |....     |....     |
+|Remington Sewing-Machine Co.|....      |....     |....     |3,560    |2,965    |
+|Parham       "      "     " |....      |....     |1,141    |1,766    |2,056    |
+|Bartram & Fanton Mfg. Co.   |2,958     |....     |....     |....     |1,004    |
+|Bartlett Sewing-Machine Co. |....      |....     |....     |....     |614      |
+|J. G. Folsom                |....      |....     |....     |....     |280      |
+|McKay Sewing-Machine Asso.  |....      |....     |....     |129      |218      |
+|C. F. Thompson              |....      |....     |....     |....     |147      |
+|Union Buttonhole Machine Co.|....      |....     |....     |....     |124      |
+|Leavitt Sewing-Machine Co.  |1,051     |1,000    |771      |....     |....     |
+|Goodspeed & Wyman S. M. Co. |2,126     |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Keystone Sewing-Machine Co. |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Secor       "      "     "  |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Centennial  "      "     "  |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+| NAME OF MANUFACTURER.      |  1872.   |  1873.  |  1874.  |  1875.  |   1876. |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+|The Singer Manufacturing Co.|219,758   |232,444  |241,679  |249,852  |262,316  |
+|Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co.   |174,088   |119,190  |92,827   |103,740  |108,997  |
+|Grover & Baker S. M. Co.    |52,010    |36,179   |20,000(a)|15,000(a)|....     |
+|Weed Sewing-Machine Co.     |42,444    |21,769   |20,495   |21,993   |14,425   |
+|Howe Sewing-Machine Co.     |145,000(a)|90,000(a)|35,000(a)|25,000(a)|109,294  |
+|A. B. Howe     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|B. P. Howe     "     "      |14,907    |13,919   |....     |....     |....     |
+|Willcox & Gibbs S. M.  Co.  |33,639    |15,881   |13,710   |14,522   |12,758   |
+|Wilson (W. G.)   "      "   |22,666    |21,247   |17,525   |9,508    |....     |
+|American B. H. & S. M. Co.  |18,930    |14,182   |13,529   |14,406   |17,937   |
+|Florence S. M. Co.          |15,793    |8,960    |5,517    |4,892    |2,978    |
+|Shaw & Clark  S. M. Co.     |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Gold Medal    "  "  "       |18,897    |16,431   |15,214   |14,262   |7,185    |
+|Davis         "  "  "       |11,376    |8,861    |....     |....     |....     |
+|Domestic      "  "  "       |49,554    |40,114   |22,700   |21,452   |23,587   |
+|Finkle & Lyon Mfg. Co. and  |11,901    |7,446    |6,292    |6,103    |5,750    |
+|  Victor.                   |          |         |         |         |         |
+|AEtna Sewing-Machine Co.     |4,262     |3,081    |1,866    |1,447    |707      |
+|Blees   "      "     "      |6,053     |3,458    |....     |....     |....     |
+|Elliptic "     "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Empire  "      "     "      |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Remington Sewing-Machine Co.|4,982     |9,183    |17,608   |25,110   |12,716   |
+|Parham       "      "     " |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Bartram & Fanton Mfg. Co.   |1,000     |1,000    |250      |....     |....     |
+|Bartlett Sewing-Machine Co. |1,000     |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|J. G. Folsom                |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|McKay Sewing-Machine Asso.  |....      |....     |128      |161      |102      |
+|C. F. Thompson              |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Union Buttonhole Machine Co.|....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Leavitt Sewing-Machine Co.  |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Goodspeed & Wyman S. M. Co. |....      |....     |....     |....     |....     |
+|Keystone Sewing-Machine Co. |2,665     |217      |37       |....     |....     |
+|Secor       "      "     "  |311       |3,430    |4,541    |1,307    |....     |
+|Centennial  "      "     "  |....      |514      |....     |....     |....     |
++----------------------------+----------+---------+---------+---------+---------+
+
+(a) Number estimated.
+(b) No data.
+
+Figure 37.--TABLE OF SEWING-MACHINE STATISTICS. From Frederick G.
+Bourne, "American Sewing Machines" in _One Hundred Years of American
+Commerce_, vol. 2. ed. Chauncey Mitchell Depew (New York: D. O. Haines,
+1895), p. 530. (Smithsonian photo 42542-A.)]
+
+
+The "Sewing-Machine Combination"
+
+With the basic elements of a successful sewing machine assembled, the
+various manufacturers should have been able to produce good machines
+unencumbered. The court order, however, which restrained several firms
+from selling Singer machines while the Howe suit was pending, started a
+landslide; soon Wheeler, Wilson and company, Grover and Baker company,
+and several others[64] purchased rights from Elias Howe. This gave Howe
+almost absolute control of the sewing-machine business as these
+companies agreed to his royalty terms of $25 for every machine sold. In
+an attempt to improve his own machine, Howe was almost immediately
+caught up in another series of legal battles in which he was the
+defendant; the companies he had defeated were able to accuse him of
+infringing on patents that they owned. To compound the confusion,
+individual companies also were suing each other on various grounds.
+
+Because of this situation Orlando B. Potter, president of the Grover and
+Baker company, advanced in 1856 the idea of a "Combination" of
+sewing-machine manufacturers. He pointed out how the various companies
+were harming themselves by continuing litigation and tried to convince
+Howe that all would benefit by an agreement of some kind. He proposed
+that Elias Howe; Wheeler, Wilson and company; I. M. Singer and company;
+and Grover and Baker company pool their patents covering the essential
+features of the machine. The three companies had started production
+about the same time and approved of Potter's idea; Howe opposed it as he
+felt that he had the most to lose by joining the "Combination." He
+finally consented to take part in Potter's plan if the others would
+agree to certain stipulations. The first requirement was that at least
+twenty-four manufacturers were to be licensed. The second was that, in
+addition to sharing equally in the profits with the three companies,
+Howe would receive a royalty of $5 for each machine sold in the United
+States and $1 for each machine exported. It has been estimated that, as
+a result of this agreement, Howe received at least $2,000,000 as his
+share of the license fees between 1856 and 1867 when his patent
+expired.[65]
+
+The organization was called the Sewing-Machine Trust and/or the
+Sewing-Machine Combination. The important patents contributed to it
+were:
+
+     1. The grooved, eye-pointed needle used with a shuttle to form the
+     lockstitch (E. Howe patent, held by E. Howe);
+
+     2. The four-motion feeding mechanism (A. B. Wilson patent, held by
+     Wheeler and Wilson company);
+
+     3. The needle moving vertically above a horizontal work-plate
+     (Bachelder patent), a continuous feeding device by belt or wheel
+     (Bachelder patent), a yielding presser resting on the cloth
+     (Bachelder patent), the spring or curved arm to hold the cloth by a
+     yielding pressure (Morey and Johnson patent), the heart-shaped cam
+     as applied to moving the needle bar (Singer patent); all these
+     patents, held by the Singer Company.[66]
+
+The Grover and Baker company contributed several patents of relative
+importance, but its most important claim for admission was the fact that
+Potter had promoted the idea.
+
+The consent of all four member-parties was required before any license
+could be granted, and all were required to have a license--even the
+member companies. The fee was $15 per machine. A portion of this money
+was set aside to pay the cost of prosecuting infringers, Howe received
+his initial fee, and the rest was divided between the four parties. The
+advantage to the licensee was that he was required to pay only one fee.
+Most license applications were granted; only those manufacturing a
+machine specifically imitating the product of a licensed manufacturer
+were refused.
+
+The "Combination's" three company members each continued to manufacture,
+improve, and perfect its own machine. Other than the joint control of
+the patents, there was no pooling of interests, and each company
+competed to attract purchasers to buy its particular type of machine, as
+did the companies who were licensed by them.
+
+In 1860, the year Howe's patent was renewed, the general license fee was
+reduced from $15 to $7, and Howe's special royalty was reduced to $1 per
+machine. Howe remained a member until his patent ran out in 1867. The
+other members continued the "Combination" until 1877, when the Bachelder
+patent, which had been extended twice, finally expired. By that time the
+fundamental features of the sewing machine were no longer controlled by
+anyone. Open competition by the smaller manufacturers was possible, and
+a slight reduction in price followed. Many new companies came into
+being--some destined to be very short-lived.
+
+From the beginning to the end of the "Combination" there was an army of
+independents, including infringers and imitators, who kept up a constant
+complaint against it, maintaining that its existence tended to retard
+the improvement of the sewing machine and that the public suffered
+thereby. In the period immediately following the termination of the
+"Combination," however, only a few improvements of any importance were
+made, and most of these were by the member companies.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[64] These included the American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co.; A.
+Bartholf; Nichols and Bliss; J. A. Lerow; Woolridge, Keene, and Moore;
+and A. B. Howe. _New York Daily Tribune_, Sept. 3, 1853.
+
+[65] "Who Invented the Sewing-Machine," unsigned article in _The
+Galaxy_, vol. 4, August 31, 1867, pp. 471-481.
+
+[66] Singer has sometimes been credited as the inventor of the various
+improvements covered by the patents that the Singer company purchased
+and later contributed to the efforts of the Combination.
+
+
+
+
+_Chapter Four_
+
+[Illustration: Figure 38.--GIBBS' PATENT MODEL, 1857. (Smithsonian photo
+45504-E.)]
+
+Less Expensive Machines
+
+
+While the "Combination" was attempting to solve the problems of patent
+litigation, another problem faced the would-be home users of this new
+invention. The budget limitations of the average family caused a demand
+for a less expensive machine, for this first consumer appliance was a
+most desirable commodity.[67]
+
+There were many attempts to satisfy this demand, but one of the best and
+most successful grew out of a young man's curiosity. James E. A. Gibbs'
+first exposure to the sewing machine was in 1855 when, at the age of 24,
+he saw a simple woodcut illustration of a Grover and Baker machine. The
+woodcut represented only the upper part of the machine. Nothing in the
+illustration indicated that more than one thread was used, and none of
+the stitch-forming mechanism was visible. Gibbs assumed that the stitch
+was formed with one thread; he then proceeded to imagine a mechanism
+that would make a stitch with one thread. His solution was described in
+his own statement:
+
+     As I was then living in a very out of the way place, far from
+     railroads and public conveyances of all kinds, modern improvements
+     seldom reached our locality, and not being likely to have my
+     curiosity satisfied otherwise, I set to work to see what I could
+     learn from the woodcut, which was not accompanied by any
+     description. I first discovered that the needle was attached to a
+     needle arm, and consequently could not pass entirely through the
+     material, but must retreat through the same hole by which it
+     entered. From this I saw that I could not make a stitch similar to
+     handwork, but must have some other mode of fastening the thread on
+     the underside, and among other possible methods of doing this, the
+     chainstitch occurred to me as a likely means of accomplishing the
+     end.
+
+     I next endeavored to discover how this stitch was or could be made,
+     and from the woodcut I saw that the driving shaft which had the
+     driving wheel on the outer end, passed along under the cloth plate
+     of the machine. I knew that the mechanism which made the stitch
+     must be connected with and actuated by this driving shaft. After
+     studying the position and relations of the needle and shaft with
+     each other, I conceived the idea of the revolving hook on the end
+     of the shaft, which might take hold of the thread and manipulate it
+     into a chainstitch. My ideas were, of course, very crude and
+     indefinite, but it will be seen that I then had the correct
+     conception of the invention afterwards embodied in my machine.[68]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 39.--ONE OF THE FIRST COMMERCIAL MACHINES produced
+by the Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Co. in 1857, this machine bears no
+serial number, although the name "James E. A. Gibbs" is inscribed in two
+places on the cloth plate. It was used as the patent model for Gibbs'
+improvement on his 1857 patent issued the following year on August 10,
+1858. (Smithsonian photo P. 6393.)]
+
+Gibbs had no immediate interest in the sewing machine other than to
+satisfy his curiosity. He did not think of it again until January 1856
+when he was visiting his father in Rockbridge County, Virginia. While in
+a tailor's shop there, he happened to see a Singer machine. Gibbs was
+very much impressed, but thought the machine entirely too heavy,
+complicated, and cumbersome, and the price exorbitant. It was then that
+he recalled the machine he had devised. Remembering how simple it was,
+he decided to work in earnest to produce a less-expensive type of sewing
+machine.
+
+Gibbs had little time to spend on this invention since his family was
+dependent upon him for support, but he managed to find time at night and
+during inclement weather. In contemporary references, Gibbs is referred
+to as a farmer, but since he is also reported to have had employers, it
+may be surmised that he was a farmhand. In any event, his decision to
+try to produce a less-expensive sewing machine suffered from a lack of
+proper tools and adequate materials. Most of the machine had to be
+constructed of wood, and he was forced to make his own needles. By the
+end of April 1856, however, his model was sufficiently completed to
+arouse the interest of his employers, who agreed to furnish the money
+necessary to patent the machine.
+
+Gibbs went to Washington, where he examined sewing-machine models in the
+Patent Office and other machines then on the market. Completing his
+investigations, Gibbs made a trip to Philadelphia and showed his
+invention to a builder of models of new inventions, James Willcox. Much
+impressed with the machine, Willcox arranged for Gibbs to work with his
+son, Charles Willcox, in a small room in the rear of his shop. After
+taking out two minor patents (on December 16, 1856, and January 20,
+1857), Gibbs obtained his important one, U.S. patent No. 17,427 on June
+2, 1857 (fig. 38). His association with Charles Willcox led to the
+formation of the Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company, and they began
+manufacturing chainstitch machines in 1857 (fig. 39). The machine used a
+straight needle to make a chainstitch. At the forward end of the main
+shaft was a hook which, as it rotated, carried the loop of
+needle-thread, elongated and held it expanded while the feed moved the
+cloth until the needle at the next stroke descended through the loop so
+held. When the needle descended through the first loop, the point of the
+hook was again in position to catch the second loop, at which time the
+first loop was cast off and the second loop drawn through it, the first
+loop having been drawn up against the lower edge of the cloth to form a
+chain.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 40.--A DOLPHIN sewing machine based on Clark's
+patent of 1858. This design was first used by T. J. W. Robertson in
+1855, but in his patent issued on May 22 of that year no claim was made
+for the machine design, only for the chainstitch mechanism. The same
+style was used by D. W. Clark in several of his chainstitch patents, but
+he also made no claim for the design, stating that the machine "may be
+made in any desired ornamental form." The dolphin-style machines are all
+chainstitch models of solid brass, originally gilt. Although only about
+five inches long, they are full-size machines using a full-size needle.
+(Smithsonian photo 45505.)]
+
+A Gibbs sewing machine, on a simple iron-frame stand with treadle, sold
+for approximately $50 in the late 1850s,[69] while a Wheeler and
+Wilson[70] machine or a Grover and Baker[71] with the same type of
+stand sold for approximately $100. After the introduction of the Gibbs
+machine, the Singer company[72] brought out a light family machine in
+1858 that was also first sold for $100. It was then reduced to $50, but
+it was not popular because it was too light (see discussion of Singer
+machines, pp. 34-35). In 1859, Singer brought out its second, more
+successful family machine, which sold for $75.
+
+Like the other companies licensed by the "Combination," Willcox and
+Gibbs company paid a royalty for the use of the patents it held.
+Although the Willcox and Gibbs machine was a single-thread chainstitch
+machine and the company held the Gibbs patents, the company was required
+to be licensed to use the basic feed, vertical needle, and other
+related patents held by the "Sewing-Machine Combination."
+
+With the approach of the Civil War, Gibbs returned to Virginia. Poor
+health prevented him from taking an active part in the war, but he
+worked throughout the conflict in a factory processing saltpeter for
+gunpowder. Afterward, Gibbs returned to Philadelphia and found that
+Willcox had faithfully protected his sewing-machine interests during his
+long absence. The firm prospered, and Gibbs finally retired to Virginia
+a wealthy man. Interestingly, Gibbs named the Virginia village to which
+he returned in later life "Raphine"--derived, somewhat incorrectly, from
+the Greek word "to sew."
+
+The Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company is one of the few old
+companies still in existence. It discontinued making and selling
+family-style machines many years ago and directed its energies toward
+specialized commercial sewing machines, many of which are based on the
+original chainstitch principle.
+
+There was also an ever-increasing number of other patentees and
+manufacturers who, in the late 1850s and 1860s, attempted to produce a
+sewing machine that would circumvent both the "Combination" and the high
+cost of manufacturing a more complicated type of machine. Some of the
+more interesting of these are pictured and described in figures 40
+through 54.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 41.--THE CHERUB sewing machine was another
+Robertson first which was adopted by Clark. Robertson's patent of
+October 20, 1857, once again makes no claim for the design; neither does
+Clark's patent of January 5, 1858, illustrated here. The machine is
+approximately the same size as the dolphin and is made in the same
+manner and of the same materials. Two cherubs form the main support, one
+also supporting the spool and leashing a dragonfly which backs the
+needle mechanism. (Smithsonian photo 45504-D.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 42.--THE FOLIAGE SEWING MACHINE originated with D.
+W. Clark. Once again he did not include the design in his June 8, 1858,
+patent, which was aimed at improving the feeding mechanism. Like most
+hand-turned models, these required a clamp to fasten them to the table
+when in operation. (Smithsonian photo 45504-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 43.--THE SEWING SHEARS was another popular machine
+of unusual style. Some models were designed to both cut and sew, but
+most derived their names from the method of motivating power. The
+earliest example of the sewing-shears machine was invented by Joseph
+Hendrick, who stated in his patent that he was attempting to produce "a
+simple, portable, cheap, and efficient machine." His patent model of
+October 5, 1858, is illustrated. (Smithsonian photo 45504-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 44.--THE HORSE SEWING MACHINE is among the most
+unusual of the patents issued for mechanical improvements. Although
+James Perry, the patentee, made several claims for the looper, feeder,
+and tension, he made no mention of the unusual design of the machine,
+for which a patent was issued on November 23, 1858. Although it was
+probably one of a kind, the horse machine illustrates the extent to
+which the inventor's mind struggled for original design. (Smithsonian
+photo 45505-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 45.--MANY INVENTORS attempted to cut the cost of
+manufacturing a complicated machine. One of these was Albert H. Hook,
+whose machine is only about four inches high and two inches wide. His
+patent, granted November 30, 1858, simplified the construction and
+arrangement of the various parts. Although Hook used a barbed needle
+reminiscent of the one used by Thimonnier, his method of forming the
+stitch was entirely different. The thread was passed through the
+necessary guides, and when the cloth was in place the needle was thrust
+up from below. Passing through the fabric, the needle descended,
+carrying with it a loop of thread. As the process was repeated, a
+chainstitch was formed with the enchained loop on the under side. In
+spite of its simple mechanism, Hook's machine was not a commercial
+success. (Smithsonian photo 45505-D.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 46.--IN ADDITION TO MECHANICAL PATENTS, a number
+of design patents were also issued for sewing machines. These fall into
+a separate series in the Patent Office's numerical records. This unusual
+example featured two semidraped female figures holding the spool of
+thread, a mermaid holding the needle, a serpent which served as the
+presser foot, and a heart-shaped baster plate. The design was patented
+by W. N. Brown, October 25, 1859, but no examples other than the patent
+model are known to have been made. (Smithsonian photo 45504-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 47.--THE SQUIRREL MACHINE was another interesting
+design patent. S. B. Ellithorp had received a mechanical patent for a
+two-thread, stationary-bobbin machine on August 26, 1857. That same
+month he published a picture of his machine, shown here as republished
+in the _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 7, no. 11, November 1885. The machine
+was designed in the shape of "the ordinary gray squirrel so common
+throughout this country--an animal that is selected as a type of
+provident care and forethought, for its habits of frugality and for
+making provision for seasons of scarcity and want in times of
+plenty--and the different parts of the animal are each put to a useful
+purpose; the moving power being placed within its body, the needle stock
+through its head, one of its fore feet serving to guide the thread, and
+the other to hold down the cloth while being sewed, and the tip of its
+tail forming a support to the spool from which the thread is supplied."
+
+Although the design patent was not secured until June 7, 1859, the
+inventor was reported to have been perfecting his machine for
+manufacture in 1857. Ellithorp planned "to place them in market at a
+price that will permit families and individuals that have heretofore
+been deterred from purchasing a machine by the excessive and exorbitant
+price charged for those now in use, to possess one." Patent rights were
+sold under the name of Ellithorp & Fox, but the machine was never
+manufactured on a large scale, if at all. No squirrel machines are known
+to have survived. (Smithsonian photo 53112.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 48.--HEYER'S POCKET SEWING MACHINE patent model,
+November 17, 1863. This patent model is one piece, and measures about
+two inches in height and two inches in length. It will stitch--but only
+coarse, loosely woven fabrics. As can be expected, a great deal of
+manual dexterity is required to compensate for the omission of
+mechanical parts. Heyer advertised patent rights for sale, but evidence
+of manufactured machines of this type has yet to be discovered.
+(Smithsonian photo 18115-D[a].)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 49.--HEYER'S MACHINE as illustrated in _Scientific
+American_, July 30, 1864. The smallest and most original of all the
+attempts to simplify machine sewing, Heyer's machine, which made a
+chainstitch, was constructed of a single strip of metal. The _Scientific
+American_ stated: "It is simply a steel spring ingeniously bent and
+arranged and it is said to sew small articles very well. The whole
+affair can easily be carried in the coat pocket."
+
+One method of operation, vibrating with the finger, was illustrated. The
+machine could be operated also by holding it in the hand and pressuring
+it between two fingers. Cloth was inserted at _c_, and the prongs of the
+spring feed _f_ carried it along after each stitch. It was stated that
+the needle could be cut from the same strip of metal, but it was advised
+also that the needle could be made as a separate piece and attached.
+(Smithsonian photo 48221.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 50.--ALTHOUGH BEAN'S AND RODGERS' running-stitch
+machines, the second and fourth U.S. sewing-machine patents, experienced
+little commercial success, small manufactured machines based on Aaron
+Palmer's patent of May 13, 1862, were popular in the 1860s. The patent
+model above is a small brass implement with crimping gears that forced
+the fabric onto an ordinary sewing needle. The full needle was then
+removed from its position, and the thread was pulled through the fabric
+by hand. (Smithsonian photo 45524.)]
+
+[Illustration: THE FAIRY SEWING-MACHINE. A HOLIDAY GIFT FOR THE
+WORK-TABLE
+
+Figure 51.--ONE OF THE EARLY COMMERCIAL MANUFACTURERS of the Palmer
+patent was Madame Demorest, a New York dressmaker. She advertised her
+Fairy sewing machine in _Godey's Lady's Book_, vol. 66, 1863, and
+stated: "In the first place it will attract attention from its
+diminutive, fairy-like size, and with the same ease with which it can be
+carried, an important matter to a seamstress or dressmaker employed from
+house to house ... What no other sewing machine attempts to do, it runs,
+and does not stitch, it sews the more delicate materials an ordinary
+sewing machine cuts or draws...." (Smithsonian photo 43690.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 52.--THE FAIRY SEWING MACHINE sold for five
+dollars and was adequate for its advertised purpose, sewing or running
+very lightweight fabrics. The machine was marked with the Palmer patent,
+the date May 13, 1862, and the name "Mme. Demorest."
+
+A machine identical to the Fairy, but bearing both Palmer patent dates,
+May 13, 1862, and June 19, 1863, and the name "Gold Medal," was
+manufactured by a less-scrupulous company. This machine was advertised
+as follows: "A first class sewing machine, handsomely ornamented, with
+all working parts silver plated. Put up in a highly polished mahogany
+case, packed ready for shipment. Price $10.00. This machine uses a
+common sewing needle, is very simple. A child can operate it. Cash with
+order." Some buyers felt they were swindled, as they had expected a
+heavy-duty machine, but no recourse could be taken against the
+advertiser. Another similar machine was also manufactured under the name
+"Little Gem." (Smithsonian photo 45525.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 53 and 54.--RUNNING-STITCH MACHINES were also
+attempted by several other inventors. Shaw & Clark, manufacturers of
+chainstitch machines, patented this running-stitch machine on April 21,
+1863. From the appearance of the patent model, it was already in
+commercial production. On May 26, 1863, John D. Dale also received a
+patent for an improvement related to the method of holding the needle
+and regulating the stitches in a running-stitch machine. Dale's patent
+model was a commercial machine.
+
+John Heberling patented several improvements in 1878 and 1880. His
+machine, which was a little larger and in appearance resembled a more
+conventional type of sewing machine, was a commercial success. (Shaw &
+Clark: Smithsonian photo P. 6395; Dale: Smithsonian photo P. 6394.)]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[67] _Scientific American_ (Jan. 29, 1859), vol. 14, no. 21, p. 165. In
+a description of the new Willcox and Gibbs sewing machine the following
+observation is made: "It is astonishing how, in a few years, the sewing
+machine has made such strides in popular favor, and become, from being a
+mechanical wonder, a household necessity and extensive object of
+manufacture. While the higher priced varieties have such a large sale,
+it is no wonder that the cheaper ones sell in such tremendous
+quantities, and that our inventors are always trying to produce
+something new and cheap."
+
+[68] Op. cit. (footnote 53), pp. 129-131.
+
+[69] _Scientific American_, vol. 15, no. 21 (January 29, 1859), p. 165,
+and Willcox and Gibbs advertising brochure, 1864.
+
+[70] _Scientific American_, vol. 12, no. 8 (November 1, 1856), p. 62.
+
+[71] Ibid., vol. 1, no. 19 (November 5, 1859), p. 303.
+
+[72] I. M. Singer & Co.'s Gazette, vol. 5, no. 4 (March 1, 1859), p. 4,
+and a brochure, _Singer's New Family Sewing Machine_ (in Singer
+Manufacturing Company, Historic Archives).
+
+
+
+
+_Appendixes_
+
+
+
+
+I. Notes on the Development and Commercial Use of the Sewing Machine
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+While researching the history of the invention and the development of
+the sewing machine, many items of related interest concerning the
+machine's economic value came to light. The manufacture of the machines
+was in itself a boost to the economy of the emerging "industrial United
+States," as was the production of attachments for specialized stitching
+and the need for new types of needles and thread. Moreover, the
+machine's ability to speed up production permitted it to permeate the
+entire field of products manufactured by any type of stitching, from
+umbrellas to tents. Since this aspect of the story was not completed for
+this study, no attempt will be made to include any definitive statements
+on the economic importance of the sewing machine at home or abroad. This
+related information is of sufficient interest, however, to warrant
+inclusion in this first Appendix. Perhaps these notes will suggest areas
+of future research for students of American technology.
+
+
+READY-MADE CLOTHING
+
+Whether of the expensive or the inexpensive type, the sewing machine was
+much more than a popular household appliance. Its introduction had
+far-reaching effects on many different types of manufacturing
+establishments as well as on the export trade. The newly developing
+ready-made clothing industry was not only in a state of development to
+welcome the new machine but also was, in all probability, responsible
+for its immediate practical application and success.
+
+Until the early part of the second quarter of the 19th century, the
+ready-made clothing trade in the United States was confined almost
+entirely to furnishing the clothing required by sailors about to ship
+out to sea. The stores that kept these supplies were usually in the
+neighborhood of wharf areas. But other than the needs of these seamen,
+there was little market for ready-made goods. Out of necessity many of
+the families in the early years in this country had made their own
+clothing. As wealth was acquired and taste could be cultivated,
+professional seamstresses and tailors were in increasing demand, moved
+into the cities and towns, and even visited the smaller villages for as
+long as their services were needed. At the same time a related trade was
+also growing in the cities, especially in New York City, that of dealing
+in second-hand clothing. Industrious persons bought up old clothes,
+cleaned, repaired and refinished them, and sold the clothing to
+immigrants and transients who wished to avoid the high cost of new
+custom-made clothing.
+
+The repairing of this second-hand clothing led to the purchase of cheap
+cloth at auction--"half-burnt," "wet-goods," and other damaged yardage.
+When in excess of the repairing needs, this fabric was made into
+garments and sold with the second-hand items. Many visitors who passed
+through New York City were found to be potential buyers of this
+merchandise if a better class of ready-made clothes was made available.
+Manufacture began to increase. Tailors of the city began to keep an
+assortment of finished garments on hand. When visitors bought these,
+they were also very likely to buy additional garments for resale at
+home. The latter led to the establishment of the wholesale
+garment-manufacturing industry in New York about 1834-35.
+
+Most of the ready-made clothing establishments were small operations,
+not large factories. Large quantities of cloth were purchased; cutting
+was done in multiple layers with tailor's shears. Since many
+seamstresses were needed, the garments were farmed out to the girls in
+their homes. The manufacture of garments in quantity meant that the
+profit on each garment was larger than a tailor could make on a single
+custom-made item. The appeal of increased profits influenced many to
+enter the new industry and, due to the ensuing competition, the retail
+cost of each garment was lowered. Just as the new businesses were
+getting underway, the Panic of 1837 ruined most of them. But the lower
+cost and the convenience of ready-made clothing had left its mark. Not
+only was the garment-manufacturing business re-established soon after
+the Panic had subsided, but by 1841 the value of clothing sold at
+wholesale in New York was estimated at $2,500,000 and by 1850--a year
+before sewing machines were manufactured in any quantity--there were
+4,278 clothing manufacturing establishments in the United States. Beside
+New York City, Cincinnati was also one of the important ready-made
+clothing centers. In 1850 the value of its products amounted to
+$4,427,500 and in 1860 to $6,381,190. Boston was another important
+center with a ready-made clothing production of $4,567,749 in 1860.
+Philadelphia, Baltimore, Louisville, and St. Louis all had a large
+wholesale clothing trade by 1860. Here was the ready market for a
+practical sewing machine.[73]
+
+Clothing establishments grew and began to have agencies in small towns
+and the sewing work was distributed throughout the countryside. The new,
+competing sewing-machine companies were willing to deliver a machine for
+a small sum and to allow the buyer to pay a dollar or two a month until
+the full amount of the sale was paid. This was an extension of the
+hire-purchase plan (buying on credit) initiated by Clark of the Singer
+Company. The home seamstresses were eager to buy, for they were able to
+produce more piecework with a sewing machine and therefore earn more
+money. An example of the effect that the sewing machine had on the
+stitching time required was interestingly established through a series
+of experiments conducted by the Wheeler and Wilson company. Four hand
+sewers and four sewing-machine operators were used to provide the
+average figures in this comparative time study, the results of which
+were published in 1861;[74]
+
+
+NUMBER OF STITCHES PER MINUTE
+
+                                    _By Hand_  _By Machine_
+  Patent leather, fine stitching        7          175
+  Binding hats                         33          374
+  Stitching vamped shoes               10          210
+  Stitching fine linen                 23          640
+  Stitching fine silk                  30          550
+
+
+TIME FOR GARMENTS STITCHED
+
+                                _By Hand_          _By Machine_
+  Frock coats                16 hrs. 35 min.     2 hrs. 38 min.
+  Satin vests                 7 hrs. 19 min.     1 hr. 14 min.
+  Summer pants                2 hrs. 50 min.     0 hr. 38 min.
+  Calico dress                6 hrs. 37 min.     0 hr. 57 min.
+  Plain apron                 1 hr. 26 min.      0 hr. 9 min.
+  Gentlemen's shirts         14 hrs. 26 min.     1 hr. 16 min.
+
+The factory manufacturer, with the sewing work done at the factory, was
+also developing. In 1860, Oliver F. Winchester, a shirt manufacturer of
+New Haven, Connecticut, stated that his factory turned out 800 dozen
+shirts per week, using 400 sewing machines and operators to do the work
+of 2,000 hand sewers. The price for hand sewing was then $3 per week,
+which made labor costs $6000 per week. The 400 machine operators
+received $4 per week, making the labor cost $1600 per week. Allowing
+$150 as the cost of each machine, the sewing machines more than paid for
+themselves in less than 14 weeks, increased the operators pay by $1 a
+week, and lowered the retail cost of the item.[75] The greatest savings
+of time, which was as much as fifty percent, was in the manufacture of
+light goods--such items as shirts, aprons, and calico dresses. The
+Commissioner of Patents weighed the monetary effect that this or any
+invention had on the economy against the monetary gain received by the
+patentee. When he found that the patentee had not been fairly
+compensated, he had the authority to grant a seven-year extension to the
+patent.[76]
+
+The sewing machine also contributed to the popularity of certain
+fashions. Ready-made cloaks for women were a business of a few years'
+standing when the sewing machine was adopted for their manufacture in
+1853. Machine sewing reduced the cost of constructing the garment by
+about eighty percent, thereby decreasing its price and increasing its
+popularity. In New York City alone, the value of the "cloak and
+mantilla" manufacture in 1860 was $618,400.[77] Crinolines and
+hoopskirts were easier to stitch by machine than by hand, and these
+items had a spirited period of popularity due to the introduction of the
+sewing machine. Braiding, pleating, and tucking adorned many costume
+items because they could be produced by machine with ease and rapidity.
+
+In addition to using the sewing machine for the manufacture of shirts,
+collars, and related men's furnishings, the machine was also used in the
+production of men's and boy's suits and reportedly gave "a vast impetus
+to the trade."[78] The Army, however, was not quite convinced of the
+sewing machine's practical adaptation to its needs. Although a sewing
+machine was purchased for the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot as early
+as 1851, they had only six by 1860. On March 31, 1859, General Jesup of
+the Philadelphia Depot wrote to a Nechard & Company stating that the
+machine sewing had been tried but was not used for clothing, only for
+stitching caps and chevrons. In another letter, on the same day, to
+"Messers Hebrard & Co., Louisiana Steam Clothing Factory, N. Orleans,"
+Jesup states: "Machine sewing has been tried with us, and though it
+meets the requirements of a populous and civilized life, it has been
+found not to answer for the hard wear and tear and limited means of our
+frontier service. Particular attention has been paid to this subject,
+and we have abandoned the use of machines for coats, jackets and
+trousers, etc. and use them on caps and bands that are not exposed to
+much hard usage...."[79] At this period prior to the Civil War, the Army
+manufactured its own clothing. As the demands of war increased, more and
+more of the Army's clothing supplies were furnished on open
+contract--with no specifications as to stitching.[80] Machine
+stitching, in fact, is found in most of the Civil War uniforms. One of
+the problems that most probably affected the durability of the machine
+stitching in the 1850s was the sewing thread, a problem that was not
+solved until the 1860s and which is discussed later under "thread for
+the machine."
+
+[Illustration: Figure 55.--BLAKE'S LEATHER-STITCHING MACHINE patent
+model of July 6, 1858; the inventor claimed the arrangement of the
+mechanism used and an auxiliary arm capable of entering the shoe, which
+enabled the outer sole to be stitched both to the inner sole and to the
+upper part of the shoe. (Smithsonian photo 50361.)]
+
+
+SHOE MANUFACTURE
+
+Another industry that was aided by the new invention was that of shoe
+manufacture. Although the earliest sewing-machine patents in the United
+States reflect the inventors' efforts to solve the difficult task of
+leather stitching, and, although machines were used to a limited extent
+in stitching some parts of the shoe in the early and mid-1850s, it was
+not until 1858 that a machine was invented that could stitch the sole to
+the inner sole and to the upper part of the shoe. This was the invention
+of Lyman R. Blake and was patented by him on July 8, 1858; the patent
+model is shown in figure 55. Blake formed a chainstitch by using a
+hooked needle, which descended from above, to draw a thread through the
+supporting arm. Serving as the machine's bedplate, the arm was shaped to
+accommodate the stitching of all the parts of the shoe.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 56.--HARRIS' patent thread cutter, 1872.
+(Smithsonian photo P-6397.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 57.--WEST'S patent thread cutter, 1874.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63100.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 58.--KARR'S patent needle threader, 1871.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63101.)]
+
+The increased number of shoes required by the Army during the Civil War
+spurred the use of the sewing machine in their manufacture. The first
+"machine sewed bootees" were purchased by the Army in 1861. Inventors
+continued their efforts; the most prominent of these was Gordon McKay,
+who worked on an improvement of the Blake machine with Robert Mathies in
+1862 and then with Blake in 1864. Reportedly, the Government at first
+preferred the machine-stitched shoes as they lasted eight times longer
+than those stitched by hand; during the war the Army purchased 473,000
+pairs, but in 1871 the Quartermaster General wrote:
+
+     No complaints regarding the quality of these shoes were received up
+     to February 1867 when a Board of Survey, which convened at Hart's
+     Island, New York Harbor reported upon the inferior quality of
+     certain machine sewed bootees of the McKay patent, issued to the
+     enlisted men at that post. The acting Quartermaster General, Col.
+     D. H. Rucker, April 10, 1867, addressed a letter to all the
+     officers in charge of depots, with instructions not to issue any
+     more of the shoes in question, but to report to this office the
+     quantity remaining in store. From these reports it appears that
+     there were in store at that time 362,012 pairs M. S. Bootees, all
+     of which were ordered to be, and have since been sold at public
+     auction.[81]
+
+The exact complaint against the shoes was not recorded. Possibly the
+entire shoe was stitched by machine. It was found that although
+machine-stitched shoes were more durable in some respects and the upper
+parts of most shoes continued to be machine stitched, pegged soles for
+the more durable varieties remained the fashion for a decade or more, as
+did custom hand-stitched shoes for those who could afford them.
+
+
+OTHER USES
+
+The use of sewing machines in all types of manufacturing that required
+stitching of any type continued to grow each year. While the principal
+purpose for which they were utilized continued to be the manufacture of
+clothing items, by the year 1900 they were also used for awnings, tents,
+and sails; cloth bags; bookbinding and related book manufacture; flags
+and banners; pocketbooks, trunks, and valises; saddlery and harnesses;
+mattresses; umbrellas; linen and rubber belting and hose; to the
+aggregate sum of nearly a billion dollars--$979,988,413.[82]
+
+
+SEWING-MACHINE ATTACHMENTS
+
+The growing popularity of the sewing machine offered still another boost
+to the economy--the development of many minor, related manufacturing
+industries. The repetitive need for machine needles, the development of
+various types of attachments to simplify the many sewing tasks, and the
+ever-increasing need for more and better sewing thread--the sewing
+machine consumed from two to five times as much thread as stitching by
+hand--created new manufacturing establishments and new jobs.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 59.--SHANK'S patent bobbin winder, 1870.
+(Smithsonian photo P-6398.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 60.--SWEET'S patent binder, 1853. (Smithsonian
+photo P-6396.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 61.--SPOUL'S patent braid guide, 1871.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63102.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 62.--ROSE'S patent embroiderer, 1881. (Smithsonian
+photo P-6399.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 63.--HARRIS' patent buttonhole attachment, 1882.
+(Smithsonian photo P-63103.)]
+
+The method of manufacturing machine needles did not differ appreciably
+from the method used in making the common sewing needle, but the latter
+had never become an important permanent industry in the United States.
+Since the manufacture of practical sewing machines was essentially an
+American development and the eye-pointed needle a vital component of the
+machine, it followed that the manufacture of needles would also develop
+here. Although such a manufacture was established in 1852,[83] foreign
+imports still supplied much of the need in the 1870s. As more highly
+specialized stitching machines were developed, an ever-increasing
+variety of needles was required, and the industry grew.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 64.--THE TREADLE OF THE MACHINE was also used to
+help create music. George D. Garvie and George Wood received patent
+267,874, Nov. 21, 1882, for "a cover for a sewing machine provided with
+a musical instrument and means for transmitting motion from the shaft of
+the sewing machine to the operating parts of the musical instrument."
+Although no patent model was submitted by the inventors, the "Musical
+Sewing Machine Cover" was offered for sale as early as October 1882, as
+shown by this advertisement that appeared in _The Sewing Machine News_
+that month. (Smithsonian photo 57983.)]
+
+Soon after the sewing machine was commercially successful, special
+attachments for it were invented and manufactured. These ranged from the
+simplest devices for cutting thread to complicated ones for making
+buttonholes (see figs. 56 through 66).
+
+[Illustration: Figure 65.--THIS FANNING ATTACHMENT was commercially
+available from James Morrison & Co. in the early 1870s; it sold for one
+dollar as stated in the advertising brochure from which this engraving
+was copied. Other inventors also patented similar implements.
+(Smithsonian photo 45513.)]
+
+The first patent for an attachment was issued in 1853 to Harry Sweet for
+a binder, used to stitch a special binding edge to the fabric. Other
+related attachments followed; among these were the hemmer which was
+similar to the binder, but turned the edge of the same piece of fabric
+to itself as the stitching was performed. Guides for stitching braid in
+any pattern, as directed by the movement of the goods below, were also
+developed; this was followed by the embroiderer, an elaborate form of
+braider. The first machine to stitch buttonholes was patented in 1854
+and the first buttonhole attachment in 1856, but the latter was not
+practical until improvements were made in the late 1860s. Special
+devices for refilling the bobbins were invented and patented as early as
+1862, and the popularity of tucked and ruffled garments inspired
+inventors to provide sewing-machine attachments for these purposes also.
+To keep the seamstress cool, C. D. Stewart patented an attachment for
+fanning the operator by an action derived from the treadle (fig. 65).
+While electric sewing machines did not become common until the 20th
+century, several 19th-century inventors considered the possibility of
+attaching a type of motor to the machine. One was the 1871 patent of
+Solomon Jones, who added an "electro motor" to an 1865 Bartlett machine
+(fig. 66). The attachments that were developed during the latter part of
+the 19th century numbered in the thousands; many of these were
+superfluous. Most of the basic ones in use today were developed by the
+1880s and remain almost unchanged. Even the recently popular home zigzag
+machine, an outgrowth of the buttonhole machine, was in commercial use
+by the 1870s.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 66.--JONES "ELECTRO MOTOR" PATENT MODEL of 1871 on
+a Bartlett sewing machine. (Smithsonian photo P-63104.)]
+
+Sewing-machine improvements have been made from time to time. Like other
+mechanical items the machine has become increasingly automatic, but the
+basic principles remain the same. One of the more recent developments,
+patented[84] in 1933 by Valentine Naftali et al., is for a manufacturing
+machine that imitates hand stitching. This machine uses a two-pointed
+"floating needle" that is passed completely through the fabric--the very
+idea that was attempted over one hundred years ago. The machine is
+currently used by commercial manufacturers to produce decorative
+edge-stitching that very closely resembles hand stitching.
+
+
+THREAD FOR THE MACHINE
+
+[Illustration: Figure 67.--SIX-CORD cabled thread.]
+
+The need for a good thread durable enough to withstand the action of
+machine stitching first created a problem and ultimately another new
+industry in this country. When the sewing machine was first developed
+the inventors necessarily had to use the sewing thread that was
+available. But, although the contemporary thread was quite suitable for
+hand sewing, it did not lend itself to the requirements of the machine.
+Cotton thread, then more commonly a three-ply variety, had a glazed
+finish and was wiry. Silk thread frequently broke owing to abrasion at
+the needle eye. For the most part linen thread was too coarse, or the
+fine variety was too expensive. All of the thread had imperfections that
+went unnoticed in the hands of a seamstress, but caused havoc in a
+machine. Quality silk thread that would withstand the rigors of machine
+stitching could be produced, but it was quite expensive also. A new type
+of inexpensive thread was needed; the obvious answer lay in improving
+the cotton thread.[85]
+
+In addition to the popular three-ply variety, cotton thread was also
+made by twisting together either two single yarns or more than three
+yarns. Increasing the number of yarns produced a more cylindrical
+thread. The earliest record of a six-ply cotton thread was about
+1840.[86] And in 1850 C. E. Bennett of Portsmouth, New Hampshire,
+received a gold medal for superior six-cord, or six-ply, spool cotton at
+the Fair of the American Institute. But the thread was still wiry and
+far from satisfactory. By the mid-1860s the demonstrated need for thread
+manufacturers in America brought George A. Clark and William Clark,
+third generation cotton-thread manufacturers of Paisley, Scotland, to
+Newark, New Jersey, where they built a large mill. George Clark decided
+that a thread having both a softer finish and a different construction
+was needed. He produced a six-cord cabled thread, made up of three
+two-ply yarns (see fig. 67). The thread was called "Clark's 'Our New
+Thread,'" which was later shortened to O.N.T. The basic machine-thread
+problem was solved. When other manufacturers used the six-cord cabled
+construction they referred to their thread as "Best Six-Cord"[87] or
+"Superior Six-Cord"[88] to distinguish it from the earlier variety made
+up of six single yarns in a simple twist. Another new side industry of
+the sewing machine was successfully established.
+
+
+MANUFACTURE AND EXPORT, TO 1900
+
+Sewing machines were a commodity in themselves, both at home and abroad.
+In 1850, there were no establishments exclusively devoted to the
+manufacture of sewing machines, the few constructed were made in small
+machine shops. The industry, however, experienced a very rapid growth
+during the next ten years. By 1860 there were 74 factories in 12
+States,[89] mainly in the East and Midwest,[90] producing over 111,000
+sewing machines a year. In addition, there were 14 factories that
+produced sewing-machine cases and attachments. The yearly value of these
+products was approximately four and a half million dollars, of which the
+amount exported in 1861 was $61,000. Although the number of
+sewing-machine factories dropped from 74 in 1860 to 69 by 1870, the
+value of the machines produced increased to almost sixteen million
+dollars.
+
+The number of sewing-machine companies fluctuated greatly from year to
+year as many attempted to enter this new field of manufacture. Some were
+not able to make a commercial success of their products. The Civil War
+did not seem to be an important factor in the number of companies in
+business in the North. Although one manufacturer ceased operations in
+Richmond, Virginia, and a Vermont firm converted to arms manufacture,
+several companies began operations during the war years. Of the 69 firms
+in business in 1870, only part had been in business since 1860 or
+before; some were quite new as a result of the expiration of the Howe
+patent renewal in 1867.
+
+Probably due to the termination of many of the major patents, there were
+124 factories in 1880, but the yearly product value remained at sixteen
+million dollars. The 1890 census reports only 66 factories with a yearly
+production of a little less than the earlier decade. But by 1900, the
+yearly production of a like number of factories had reached a value of
+over twenty-one million, of which four and a half million dollars worth
+were exported annually. The total value of American sewing machines
+exported from 1860 to 1900 was approximately ninety million dollars. The
+manufacture of sewing machines made a significant contribution to the
+economic development of 19th-century America.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[73] _Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures, Clothing_ (United States Census
+Office, published Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865).
+
+[74] _Eighty Years of Progress of the United States_ (New York, 1861),
+vol. 2, pp. 413-429.
+
+[75] GEORGE GIFFORD, "Argument of [George] Gifford in Favor of the Howe
+Application for Extension of Patent" (New York: United States Patent
+Office, 1860).
+
+[76] Op. cit. (footnote 34).
+
+[77] _Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures_ (United States Census Office,
+published Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865), "Women's
+Ready-Made Clothing," p. 83.
+
+[78] Ibid., p. 64.
+
+[79] National Archives, Record Group 92, Office of the Quartermaster
+General, Clothing Book, Letters Sent, volume 17.
+
+[80] The author wishes to acknowledge the valuable help of Mr. Donald
+Kloster of the Smithsonian Institution's Division of Military History
+for the preceding four references and related information.
+
+[81] Letter of Nov. 4, 1871, to Col. Theo. A. Dodge, USA (Ret.), Boston,
+from Quartermaster General M. C. Meigs, in the National Archives, Record
+Group 92, Quartermaster General's Office, Letters Sent, Clothing
+Supplies, 1871.
+
+[82] _Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900_, vol. 10,
+_Manufactures_, Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United
+States Census Office, Washington, D.C., 1902).
+
+[83] CHARLES M. KARCH, "Needles: Historical and Descriptive," in
+_Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900_, vol. 10, _Manufactures_,
+Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United States Census
+Office: Washington, D.C., 1902), pp. 429-432.
+
+[84] U.S. patent 1,931,447, issued to Valentine Naftali, Henry Naftali,
+and Rudolph Naftali, Oct. 17, 1933. The Naftali machines are
+manufactured by the American Machine and Foundry Company and are called
+AMF Stitching Machines.
+
+[85] See Appendix V, p. 135, "A Brief History of Cotton Thread."
+
+[86] _The Story of Cotton Thread_ (New York, The Spool Cotton Company,
+1933).
+
+[87] J. and P. Coats spool cotton.
+
+[88] Willimantic spool cotton.
+
+[89] New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut,
+New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Kentucky.
+_Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures_ (United States Census Office,
+published by Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865.)
+
+[90] Sewing-machine manufacture in the South was just beginning to
+blossom when it was curtailed by the outbreak of the Civil War. See
+Lester sewing machine, figure 109 on page 102.
+
+
+
+
+II. American Sewing-Machine Companies of the 19th Century
+
+
+During the latter half of the 19th century, there was a total of two
+hundred or more sewing-machine companies in the United States. Although
+a great many manufacturing-type machines were sold, this business was
+carried on by relatively few companies and most were primarily concerned
+with the family-type machines. A representative number of these family
+machines together with information concerning both the company and
+serial-number dating are found in figures 68 through 132. A great many
+of the companies were licensed by the "Combination," but, in addition,
+some companies were constructing machines that did not infringe the
+patents, other companies infringed the patents but managed to avoid
+legal action, and there were numerous companies that mushroomed into
+existence after the "Combination" was dissolved in 1877. Most of the
+latter were very short-lived. It is difficult to establish the exact
+dates of some of these companies as many of their records were
+incomplete or have since disappeared; even a great many of the
+"Combination" records were lost by fire. A summary of the existing
+records kept by the "Combination" is given in figure 37.
+
+As will be noted in the subsequent listing, only a small percentage of
+the companies were in business for a period longer than ten years; of
+those that continued longer, all but a few had disappeared by 1910.
+Today there are about sixty United States sewing-machine companies. Most
+of them manufacture highly specialized sewing machines used for specific
+types of commercial work; only a few produce family or home-style
+machines. Foreign competition has increased, and the high cost of
+skilled labor in this country has made competition in this
+consumer-product field increasingly difficult. The countless varieties
+of American family sewing machines, so evident in the 19th century, have
+passed away.
+
+                                                 First Made    Discontinued
+                       Manufacturer              or Earliest   or Last
+ Sewing Machine        or Company                Record        Record
+
+  Aetna                 Aetna Sewing Machine      ca. 1867      ca. 1877
+                        Co., Lowell, Mass.
+
+  Aiken and             ----, Ithaca, N.Y.        ca. 1855      before 1880
+   Felthousen
+
+  Alsop                 ----                      --            ca. 1880
+
+  American              American Sewing           1854          --
+                         Machine Co.
+
+  American Buttonhole,  American Buttonhole,      1869          ca. 1874
+   Overseaming and       Overseaming and
+   Sewing Machine        Sewing Machine Co.,
+   (fig. 68)             Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+    Later New           American Sewing           ca. 1874      ca. 1886
+     American           Machine Co.,
+     (fig. 69)          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  American Magnetic     American Magnetic         1853          1854
+   (fig. 70)             Sewing Machine
+                         Company, Ithaca, N.Y.
+
+  Atlantic (fig. 71)    ----                      1869          ca. 1870
+
+  Atwater (fig. 87)     ----                      1857          ca. 1860
+
+  Avery                 Avery Sewing Machine      1852          185-
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Avery                 Avery Manufacturing       1875          1886-1900
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  A. Bartholf Manfr.    A. Bartholf,              ca. 1850      185-
+    Blodgett & Lerow      manufacturer,
+    patent 1849           New York, N.Y.
+    (_see also_)
+
+  A. Bartholf Manfr.    A. Bartholf,              1853          ca. 1856
+    Howe's patent,        manufacturer,
+    1846 (fig. 72)        New York, N.Y.
+
+  Bartholf              A. Bartholf,              1857          1859
+                          manufacturer
+                        Bartholf Sewing           1859          ca. 1865
+                          Machine Co.
+
+  Bartlett (fig. 73)    Goodspeed & Wyman         1866          ca. 1870
+                        Bartlett Sewing Machine   ca. 1870      1872
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Baker                 ----                      --            before 1880
+
+  Bartram & Fanton      Bartram & Fanton Mfg.     1867          1874
+    (fig. 74)             Co., Danbury, Conn.
+
+  Bay State             ----                      --            before 1880
+
+  Beckwith (fig. 75)    Barlow & Son, New York,   1871          1872
+                          N.Y.
+                        Beckwith Sewing Machine   1872          ca. 1876
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Blees                 Blees Sewing Machine      1870          1873
+                          Co.
+
+  Blodgett & Lerow      O. Phelps, Boston,        1849          1849
+    (fig. 21)             Mass.
+                        Goddard, Rice & Co.,      1849          1850
+                          Worcester, Mass.
+    (fig. 20)           A. Bartholf,              1849          185-
+                          manufacturer, New
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Bond                  ----                      --            before 1880
+
+  Boston                J. F. Paul & Co.,         1880          --
+                          Boston, Mass.
+    Later New Boston    Boston Sewing Machine     --            after 1886
+                          Co., Boston, Mass.
+
+  Boudoir (fig. 76)     Daniel Harris,            1857          ca. 1870
+                          inventor and patentee
+                          Manufacturer--several
+
+  Bradford & Barber     Bradford & Barber,        1860          1861
+                          manufacturers,
+                          Boston, Mass.
+
+  Brattleboro           Samuel Barker and         ca. 1858      1861
+                          Thomas White,
+                          Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  Buckeye               Wilson [W.G.] Sewing      ca. 1867      ca. 1876
+    Later New Buckeye     Machine Company,
+    (fig. 77)             Cleveland, Ohio
+    (_see_ Wilson)
+
+  Buell, "E. T.         A. B. Buell,              ca. 1860      --
+    Lathbury's Patent"    Westmoreland, New York
+
+  Burnet & Broderick    Burnet, Broderick and     1859          ca. 1860
+                          Co.
+
+  Centennial            Centennial Sewing         1873          1876
+    (fig. 78)             Machine Co. (_see_
+                          McLean and Hooper),
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Chamberlain           Woolridge, Keene and      1853          ca. 1854
+                          Moore, Lynn, Mass.
+
+  Chicago Singer        Scates, Tryber &          1879          1882
+                          Sweetland Mfg. Co.,
+                          Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Later Chicago         Chicago Sewing Machine    1882          ca. 1885
+                           Co.
+
+  Chicopee
+    (_see_ Shaw & Clark)
+
+  Clark (fig. 42)       D. W. Clark,              ca. 1858      after 1860
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Clark's Revolving     Lamson, Goodnow & Yale,   1859          1861
+    Looper [double        Windsor, Vt.
+    thread] (fig. 79)
+      (_see_ Windsor)
+
+  Clinton               Clinton Brothers,         ca. 1861      ca. 1865
+                          Ithaca, N.Y.
+
+  Companion             Thurston Mfg. Co.,        1882          --
+                          Marlboro, N.H.
+
+  Crown                 Florence Sewing Machine   1879          after 1886
+      (_see_ Florence)    Co., Florence, Mass.
+
+  Dauntless (later      Dauntless Mfg. Co.,       1877          after 1882
+    New Dauntless)        Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Davis                 J.A. Davis, New York,     ca. 1860      --
+                          N.Y.
+      Davis Vertical    Davis Sewing Machine      1869          after 1886
+        Feed              Co., Watertown, N.Y.
+
+      Davis Vertical    Davis Sewing Machine      after 1886    1924
+        Feed and          Co., Dayton, Ohio
+        Rotary Shuttle
+
+  Decker (_also_ The    Decker Mfg. Co.,          --            before 1881
+    Princess)             Detroit, Mich.
+
+  Demorest              Demorest Mfg. Co          1882          1908
+                          (formerly N.Y.
+                          Sewing Machine Co.)
+
+  Diamond (formerly     Sigwalt Sewing Machine    1880          --
+    Sigwalt)              Co., Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Domestic              Wm. A. Mack & Co. and     1864          1869
+                          N. S. Perkins,
+                          Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Domestic              Domestic Sewing Machine   1869          [A]
+                          Co., Norwalk, Ohio,
+                          acquired by White
+                          Sewing Machine Co. in
+                          1924 and maintained
+                          as a subsidiary at
+                          Cleveland, Ohio.
+
+  Dorcas                John P. Bowker, Boston,   1853          185-
+                          Mass.
+
+  Du Laney (fig. 80)
+      Also called
+      Little Monitor
+      (_see_)
+
+  Durgin                Charles A. Durgin, New    1853          after 1855
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Eldredge              Eldredge Sewing Machine   1869          1890
+                          Co., Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Elliptic
+    Sloat's Elliptic    George B. Sloat and Co.,  ca. 1858      ca. 1860
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+    Sloat's Elliptic    Union Sewing Machine      1860          1861
+                          Co., Richmond, Va.
+
+    Elliptic            Wheeler & Wilson Mfg.     1861          ca. 1867
+                          Co.
+                        Elliptic Sewing           1867          before 1880
+                          Machine Co., N.Y.,
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Empire (fig. 86)      Empire Sewing Machine     ca. 1860      1869
+      Later               Co., Boston, Mass.
+      Remington-Empire
+
+  Empress               Manufactured on order     1877          --
+                          through Jerome B.
+                          Secor, Bridgeport,
+                          Conn.
+
+  Estey                 Estey Sewing Machine      ca. 1880      1882
+                          Co.
+      Estey,            Brattleboro Sewing        1883          after 1886
+      Fuller-Model        Machine Co.,
+                          Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  Eureka (fig. 81)      Eureka Shuttle Sewing     1859          --
+                          New York, N.Y.
+
+  Excelsior             Excelsior Sewing Machine  1854          1854
+                          Co., New York, N.Y.
+
+  Fairy (figs. 51, 52)  Madame Demorest, New      1863          ca. 1865
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Finkle, M. (fig. 82)  M. Finkle, Boston,        1856          ca. 1859
+                          Mass.
+      Finkle & Lyon     Finkle & Lyon Sewing      ca. 1859      1867
+                          Machine Co., Boston,
+                          Mass.
+      Later Victor
+
+  First and Frost       First and Frost, New      ca. 1859      ca. 1861
+                          York, N.Y.
+
+  Florence (fig. 83)    Florence Sewing Machine   ca. 1860      after 1878
+      Later Crown         Co., Florence, Mass.
+
+  Folsom                Folsom, J. G.,            1865          ca. 1871
+      (_see_ Globe and    Winchendon, Mass.
+      New England)
+
+  Fosket and Savage     Fosket and Savage,        1858          1859
+                          Meriden, Conn.
+
+  Foxboro               Foxboro Rotary Shuttle    ca. 1882      --
+                          Co., Foxboro, Mass.
+
+  Franklin              Franklin Sewing Machine   1871          1871
+                          Co., Mason
+                          Village, N.H.
+
+  Free                  Free Sewing Machine       1898          [A]
+                          Co., Chicago and
+                          Rockford, Ill.
+
+  Gardner               C. R. Gardner,            1856          --
+                          Detroit, Mich.
+
+  Globe (figs. 84, 85)  J. G. Folsom,             1865          1869
+                          Winchendon, Mass.
+
+  Gold Medal            Gold Medal Sewing         1863          1876
+    (chainstitch)         Machine Co., Orange,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Gold Medal            ----                      1863          ca. 1865
+    (running stitch)
+
+  Gold Hibbard          Hibbard, B. S., & Co.     1875          --
+
+  Goodbody (sewing      Goodbody Sewing Machine   1880          ca. 1890
+    shears)               Co., Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Goodes                Rex & Bockius,            ca. 1876      before 1881
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Goodrich              H. B. Goodrich, Chicago,  ca. 1880      ca. 1895
+                          Ill.
+
+  Grant Brothers        Grant Bros. & Co.,        1867          ca. 1870
+    (fig. 90)             Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Greenman and True     Greenman and True Mfg.    1859          1860
+    (fig. 91)             Co. Norwich, Conn.
+                        Morse and True            1860          1861
+
+  Green Mountain        ----                      ca. 1860      --
+
+  Griswold Variety      L. Griswold, New York,    ca. 1886      ca. 1890
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Grover and Baker      Grover and Baker Sewing   1851          1875
+    (figs. 34-36, 92)     Machine Co., Boston,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Hancock               ----                      1868          before 1881
+    (figs. 93, 94)
+
+  Heberling Running     John Heberling            1878          ca. 1885
+    Stitch
+
+  Herron's Patent       ----                      1857          --
+    (fig. 95)
+
+  Higby                 Higby Sewing Machine      ca. 1882      after 1886
+      Later Acme          Co., Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  Home                  Johnson, Clark & Co.,     1869          after 1876
+    Home Shuttle          Orange, Mass.
+
+  Homestead             ----                      ca. 1881      --
+
+  Household             Providence Tool Co.,      1880          ca. 1884
+                          Providence, R.I.
+                        Household Sewing          ca. 1885      1906
+                          Machine Co.
+
+  Howe (figs. 96, 97)   Howe Sewing Machine Co.,  1853          1873
+                          New York, N.Y.
+                          (company of A. B. Howe
+                          sold to Howe Machine
+                          Co.)
+
+  Howe (fig. 98)        Howe Machine Co.,         1867          1886
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Howe's Improved       Nichols and Bliss,        1852          1853
+    Patent (fig. 107)     Boston, Mass.
+                        J. B. Nichols & Co.       1853          1854
+      which became      Nichols, Leavitt & Co.,   1854          1856
+      Leavitt             Boston, Mass.
+
+  N. Hunt, which        N. Hunt & Co., Boston,    1853          1854
+    became Hunt and       Mass.
+    Webster (figs. 99,  Hunt and Webster,         1854          1857
+    100)                  Boston, Mass.
+      Later Ladd and
+      Webster (_see_)
+
+  Improved Common       ----                      ca. 1870      --
+    Sense (fig. 102)
+
+  Independent           Independent Sewing        1873          --
+    Noiseless             Machine Co.,
+                          Binghamton, N.Y.
+
+  Jennie June           June Mfg. Co., Chicago,   1881          1890
+                          Ill. Later
+                          Belvidere, Ill.
+
+  Jewel                 Jewel Mfg. Co., Toledo,   1884          after 1886
+                          Ohio
+
+  Johnson (fig. 103)    Emery, Houghton & Co.,    1856          after 1865
+                          Boston, Mass.
+
+  Keystone              Keystone Sewing Machine   before 1872   ca. 1874
+                          Co.
+
+  Ladd & Webster        Ladd, Webster & Co.,      1858          ca. 1866
+    (fig. 101)            Boston, Mass.
+
+  Ladies Companion      ----                      1858          ca. 1858
+    (fig. 115)
+    (_see_ Pratt's Patent)
+
+  "Lady" (fig. 104)     ----                      1859          --
+
+  Landfear's Patent     Parkers, Snow, Brooks     1857          --
+    (fig. 105)            & Co., West Meriden,
+                          Conn.
+
+  Langdon               L.W. Langdon              1856          --
+
+  Lathrop (fig. 106)    Lathrop Combination       1873          --
+                          Sewing Machine Co.
+
+  Leader                Leader Sewing Machine     1882          --
+                          Co., Springfield,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Leavitt (fig. 108)    Nichols, Leavitt & Co.,   1855          1857
+                          Boston, Mass.
+                        Leavitt & Co.             1857          ca. 1865
+                        Leavitt Sewing Machine    ca. 1865      1870
+                          Co.
+
+  Leslie Revolving      Leslie Sewing Machine     1881          --
+    Shuttle               Co., Cleveland, Ohio
+
+  Lester (fig. 109)     J.H. Lester, Brooklyn,    ca. 1858      early 1860
+                          N.Y.
+                        Lester Mfg. Co.,          early 1860    late 1860
+                          Richmond, Va.
+                        Union Sewing Machine      late 1860     1861
+                          Co., Richmond, Va.
+
+  Little Gem            ----                      --            ca. 1870
+
+  Little Giant          Domestic Sewing Machine   ca. 1882      --
+                          Co., Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Little Monitor (not   G.L. Du Laney, Brooklyn,  ca. 1866      after 1875
+    associated with       N.Y.
+    Monitor)
+
+  Love                  Love Mfg. Co.,            1885          after 1886
+                          Pittsburgh, Pa.
+
+  Lyon                  Lyon Sewing Machine Co.   1879          ca. 1880
+
+  Macauley              Thos. A. Macauley Mfg.,   before 1879   --
+                          New York, N.Y.
+
+  Manhattan             Manhattan Sewing Machine  ca. 1868      ca. 1880
+                          Co.
+
+  McKay                 McKay Sewing Machine      1870          1876
+                         Assoc.
+
+  McLean and Hooper     B. W. Lacy & Co.,         ca. 1869      ca. 1873
+                         Philadelphia, Pa.
+                          (_see_ Centennial)
+
+  Meyers                J. M. Meyers              1859          --
+
+  Miller's Patent       ----                      1853          --
+
+  Monitor (fig. 88)     Shaw & Clark Sewing       1860          1864
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Biddeford, Me.
+
+  Moore                 Moore Sewing Machine      ca. 1860      --
+                          Co.
+
+  Morey & Johnson       Safford & Williams        1849          ca. 1851
+    (fig. 18)             Makers, Boston,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Morrison              Morrison, Wilkinson &     1881          --
+                          Co., Hartford, Conn.
+
+  Mower                 ----                      ca. 1863      --
+
+  National              Johnson, Clark & Co.,     1874          --
+                          Orange, Mass.
+
+  National (also sold   National Sewing Machine   1890          1953
+  under distributor's     Co. (consolidation of
+  name)                   the June and Eldredge
+                          Companies), Belvidere,
+                          Ill.
+
+  Ne Plus Ultra         O. L. Reynolds            1857          --
+    (fig. 110)            Manufacturing Co.,
+                          Dover, N.H.
+
+  Nettleton & Raymond   Nettleton & Raymond,      ca. 1857      --
+  (fig. 111)              Brattleboro, Vt.
+
+  New England           Charles Raymond (also     ca. 1859      1866
+    (figs. 112, 113)      by: Grout & White,      1862          1863
+                          Orange, Mass.; William  1863          --
+                          Grout, Winchendon,      1865          1865
+                          Mass.; and J. G. Folsom,
+                          Winchendon, Mass.)
+
+  Newell                ----                      1881          --
+
+  New Fairbanks         J. H. Drew & Co.          1878          1880
+                          Thomas M. Cochrane      1880          --
+                          Co., Belleville, Ill.
+
+  New Home              New Home Sewing Machine   1876          [A]
+                          Co., Orange, Mass. (in
+                          1928 became affiliated
+                          with Free Sewing
+                          Machine Co.)
+
+  New York              ----, New York, N.Y.      ca. 1855      ca. 1855
+
+  New York Shuttle      N.Y. Sewing Machine Co.,  before 1880   1882
+                          New York, N.Y. (later
+                          Demorest Mfg. Co.)
+
+  Noble                 Noble Sewing Machine      before 1881   after 1886
+                          Co., Erie, Pa.
+
+  Novelty               C. A. French, Boston,     1869          --
+                          Mass.
+
+  Old Dominion          Old Dominion Sewing       ca. 1858      1860
+                          Machine Co., Richmond,
+                          Va.
+
+  Pardox                ----                      ca. 1865      --
+
+  Parham                Parham Sewing Machine     ca. 1869      ca. 1871
+                          Co., Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Parker                Charles Parker Co.,       before 1860   after 1865
+                          Meriden, Conn.
+                            Later Parker Sewing
+                            Machine Co.
+
+  Pearl                 ---- Bennett              ca. 1859      --
+
+  Philadelphia          Philadelphia Sewing       ca. 1872      ca. 1881
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Post Combination      Post Combination Sewing   before 1885   after 1886
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Washington, D.C.
+
+  Pratt's Patent        ----                      1857          ca. 1858
+  (fig. 114)  Later
+  Ladies Companion
+
+  Queen                 Dauntless Mfg Co.,        ca. 1881      --
+                          Norwalk, Ohio
+
+  Quaker City           Quaker City Sewing        1859          ca. 1861
+  (fig. 116)              Machine Co.,
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Remington Empire      Remington Empire Sewing   1870          1872
+  Later Remington         Machine Co.
+                        E. Remington & Sons,      1873          ca. 1894
+                          Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Robertson (dolphin    T. W. Robertson, New      1855          after 1860
+    & cherub) (figs.      York, N.Y.
+    40, 41)
+
+  Robinson              F. R. Robinson, Boston,   1853          ca. 1855
+                          Mass.
+
+  Robinson's patent     Howard & Davis, Boston,   1855          --
+    sewing machine        Mass.
+    with Roper's
+    improvement (fig. 117)
+      Later Robinson    same                      1856          before 1860
+      and Roper
+      (fig. 118)
+
+  Royal St. John        Royal Sewing Machine      ca. 1883      1898
+  (formerly St. John)     Co., Springfield, Ohio
+                          (later Free Co.)
+
+  Ruddick               ----                      ca. 1860      --
+
+  Secor                 Secor Machine Co.,        1870          1876
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Sewing Shears         Nettleton & Raymond,      ca. 1859      --
+  (Hendrick's patent)     Bristol, Conn.
+  (fig. 43)
+
+  Sewing Shears         American Hand Sewing      ca. 1884      ca. 1900
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Bridgeport, Conn.
+
+  Shaw & Clark          Shaw & Clark Co.,         ca. 1857      1866
+    Running Stitch        Biddeford, Me.
+    Machine (fig. 53)
+
+    Chainstitch
+    Machine (fig. 119)
+
+    Chainstitch         Shaw & Clark Co.,         1867          1868
+    Machine (fig. 120)    Chicopee Falls, Mass.
+                        Chicopee Sewing Machine   1868          ca. 1869
+                          Co., Chicopee Falls,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Sigwalt               Sigwalt Sewing Machine    ca. 1879      --
+                           Co., Chicago, Ill.
+
+  Singer (figs. 28,     I. M. Singer & Co.        1851          [A]
+    29, 30, 32, 33,       (later Singer Mfg. Co.).
+    121, 122)             Moved  from Boston to
+                          New York  to
+                          Elizabethport, N.J.
+                          (factory).
+
+  Springfield           Springfield Sewing        1880          --
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Springfield, Mass.
+
+  Standard              ----                      1870          --
+    (chainstitch)
+    (fig. 123)
+      Standard          Standard Shuttle Sewing   1874          ca. 1881
+      (shuttle)           Machine Co., New York,
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Standard              Standard Sewing Machine   1884          ca. 1930
+                          Co., Cleveland, Ohio
+                          (acquired by Singer Co.)
+
+  Stewart               Henry Stewart & Co.,      1874          1880
+                          N.Y., N.Y.
+      Later New         Stewart Mfg Co.           1880          ca. 1883
+      Stewart
+
+  St. John (later       St. John Sewing Machine   1870          ca. 1883
+    Royal St. John)       Co., Springfield, O.
+
+  Taggart & Farr        Taggart & Farr,           1858          --
+    (figs. 124, 125)      Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+  Thompson              C. F. Thompson Co.        1871          1871
+                        T. C. Thompson, Ithaca,   ca. 1854      --
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Union                 Johnson, Clark & Co.,     1876          --
+                          Orange, Mass.
+
+  Victor                Finkle & Lyon Mfg. Co.    1867          ca. 1872
+                        Victor Sewing Machine     ca. 1872      ca. 1890
+                          Co., Middletown, Conn.
+
+  Wardwell              Wardwell Mfg. Co., St.    ca. 1876      1890
+                          Louis, Mo.
+
+  Watson (fig. 126)     Jones & Lee               1850          ca. 1853
+                        Watson & Wooster,         ca. 1853      ca. 1860
+                          Bristol, Conn.
+
+  Waterbury             Waterbury Co.,            1853          ca. 1860
+                          Waterbury, Conn.
+
+  Weed                  T. E. Weed & Co. (became  1854          --
+                          Whitney & Lyons)
+
+  Weed                  Weed Sewing Machine Co.   1865          --
+                          (reorganized from
+                          Whitney & Lyons),
+                          Hartford, Conn.
+
+    Family Favorite                               1867          --
+    Manu. Favorite                                1868          --
+    General Favorite                              1872          --
+    Hartford                                      1881          ca. 1900
+
+  Wesson                Farmer & Gardner          1879          1880
+                          Manufacturing Co.
+                        D. B. Wesson Sewing       1880          --
+                          Machine Co.,
+                          Springfield, Mass.
+
+  West & Willson        West & Willson Co.,       1858          --
+    (fig. 127)             Elyria, Ohio
+
+  A. B. Wilson          E. E. Lee & Co., New      1851          1852
+    (fig. 23)             York, N.Y.
+
+  A. B. Wilson's        Wheeler, Wilson, Co.,     late 1851     1856
+    patent seaming        Watertown, N.Y.
+    lathe
+      Later Wheeler     Wheeler & Wilson Mfg.     1856          1905
+      and Wilson          Co., Bridgeport, Conn.
+      (fig. 26, 27,     Singer Co., Bridgeport,   1905          1907
+      128, 129)            Conn.
+
+  White (fig. 130)      White Sewing Machine      1876          [A]
+                          Co., Cleveland, Ohio
+
+  Whitehill             Whitehill Mfg. Co.,       ca. 1875      after 1886
+                         Milwaukee, Wis.
+
+  Whitney               Whitney Sewing Machine    ca. 1872      ca. 1880
+                         Co., Paterson, N.J.
+
+  Whitney & Lyons       Whitney & Lyons (a        ca. 1859      ca. 1865
+                          machine based on the
+                          1854 patent of T. E.
+                          Weed)
+
+  Wickersham            Butterfield & Stevens     1853          --
+                          Mfg. Co., Boston, Mass.
+
+  Willcox & Gibbs       Willcox & Gibbs Sewing    1857          [A]
+    (figs. 39, 131)       Machine Co., New York,
+                          N.Y.
+
+  Williams & Orvis      Williams & Orvis Sewing   ca. 1859      after 1860
+                          Machine Co., Boston,
+                          Mass.
+
+  Wilson (fig. 89)      Wilson (W.G.) Sewing      ca.1867       after 1885
+      (_see_ Buckeye)     Machine Co., Cleveland,
+                          Ohio
+
+  Windsor (one thread)  Vermont Arms Co.,         1856          1858
+                          Windsor, Vt.
+
+  Windsor               Lamson, Goodnow & Yale,   1859          1861
+      (_see_ Clark's      Windsor, Vt.
+      Revolving Looper)
+
+  Name Unknown          John W. Beane             1853          --
+
+       "                Henry Brind               1860          --
+
+       "                Garfield Sewing Machine   1881          --
+                          Co.
+
+       "                Geneva Sewing Machine     1880          --
+                          Co.
+
+       "                Gove & Howard             1855          --
+
+       "                Charles W. Howland,       ca. 1860      --
+                          Wilmington, Del.
+
+       "                Miles Greenwood & Co.,    ca. 1861      --
+                          Cincinnati, Ohio
+
+       "                Hood, Batelle & Co.       1854          1854
+
+       "                Wells & Haynes            1854          1854
+
+       "                Wilson H. Smith,          ca. 1860      --
+                          Birmingham, Conn.
+
+[A] Still in existence.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 68.--AMERICAN BUTTONHOLE, Overseaming & Sewing Machine of about
+1870. Using serial numbers, these machines can be dated approximately as
+follows: 1-7792, 1869; 7793-22366, 1870; 22367-42488, 1871; 42489-61419,
+1872; 61420-75602, 1873; 75603-89132, 1874; 89133-103539, 1875; and
+103540-121477, 1876. Figures are not available for the years from 1877
+to 1886. (Smithsonian photo 46953-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 69.--(NEW) AMERICAN SEWING MACHINE of about 1874.
+Illustration is from a contemporary advertising brochure. (Smithsonian
+photo 33507.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 70.--AMERICAN MAGNETIC SEWING MACHINE, 1854.
+Machines of this type were manufactured for only two years under the
+patent of Thomas C. Thompson, March 29, 1853, and later under the
+patents of Samuel J. Parker, April 11, 1854, and Simon Coon, May 9,
+1854. On September 30, 1853, Elias Howe listed receipts of $1000 from
+the American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co. for patent infringement. The
+machines manufactured after that date carry the Howe name and 1846
+patent date to show proper licensing. Judging by Howe's usual license
+fee of $25 per machine, about 40 machines were manufactured prior to
+September 1853. The company was reported to have made about 600 machines
+in 1854 before it went out of business. The only American Magnetic
+machine known to be in existence is in the collection of the Northern
+Indiana Historical Society at South Bend, Indiana. (_Photo courtesy of
+the Northern Indiana Historical Society._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 71.--ATLANTIC SEWING MACHINE, 1869. This machine
+is typical of the many varieties manufactured for a very short time in
+the 1860s and 1870s. It is about the size of the average hand-turned
+variety, 8 by 10 inches, but lighter in weight. The frame design was the
+patent of L. Porter, May 11, 1869, and the mechanism was patented by
+Alonzo Porter, February 8, 1870. The latter patent model bears the
+painted legend "Atlantic" and is stamped "Aprl 1, 69," indicating that
+it was probably already in commercial production. This date possibly may
+refer also to L. Porter's design patent, since actual date of issue was
+usually later than date of application. (Smithsonian photo 48329-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 72.--A. BARTHOLF SEWING MACHINE, 1853. Abraham
+Bartholf of New York began manufacturing Blodgett & Lerow machines (see
+fig. 20) about 1850; the style and mechanics of these machines, however,
+were primarily those of the Blodgett & Lerow patent as manufactured by
+O. C. Phelps and Goddard, Rice & Co. For this reason they are considered
+Blodgett & Lerow--not Bartholf--machines.
+
+The true Bartholf machine evolved when the manufacturer substituted
+Howe's reciprocating shuttle for the rotary shuttle of the Blodgett &
+Lerow machine, continuing to manufacture the machine in his own adapted
+style. Bartholf manufactured reciprocating-shuttle machines as early as
+1853, and his was one of the first companies licensed by Howe.
+
+All Bartholf machines licensed under Howe's patent carry the Howe name
+and patent date. They are sometimes mistakenly referred to as Howe
+machines, but they are no more Howe machines than those manufactured by
+Wheeler & Wilson, Singer, or many others.
+
+On April 6, 1858, Bartholf was granted a patent for an improvement of
+the shuttle carrier. He continued to manufacture sewing machines under
+the name "Bartholf Sewing Machine Co." until about 1865.
+
+Using serial numbers, Bartholf machines can be dated approximately as
+follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_ _Year_
+
+  1-20             1850
+  21-50            1851
+  51-100           1852
+  101-235          1853
+  236-290          1854
+  291-321          1855
+  322-356          1856
+  357-387          1857
+  388-590          1858
+  591-1337         1859
+
+No record of the number of machines produced by Bartholf after 1859 is
+available.
+
+The Bartholf machine illustrated bears the serial number 128 and the
+inscription "A. Bartholf Manfr., NY--Patented Sept. 1846 E. Howe, Jr."
+This machine is in the collection of the Baltimore County Historical
+Society. Note the close similarity between it and the 1850 Blodgett &
+Lerow machine manufactured by Bartholf. (_Photo courtesy of the
+Baltimore County Historical Society._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 73.--BARTLETT SEWING MACHINE, 1867. The Bartlett
+machine was first manufactured in 1866 under the January 31, 1865, and
+October 10, 1865, patents of Joseph W. Bartlett. The machines were made
+by Goodspeed & Wyman for the Bartlett Co. and were so marked. The
+inventor received another patent on April 7, 1868, and later machines
+carry this third date also. Although the first few hundred machines did
+not bear the dates of patents held by the "Combination," before the end
+of the first year of production Bartlett was paying royalties. He
+continued to manufacture sewing machines until the early seventies when
+he converted to the manufacturing of street lamps.
+
+Using serial numbers, Bartlett's machines can be dated approximately as
+follows: 1-1000, 1866; 1001-3126, 1867; 3127-?, 1868. There is no record
+of serial numbers for the succeeding years. (Smithsonian photo
+45524-G.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 74.--BARTRAM & FANTON SEWING MACHINE, 1867. These
+machines were first manufactured in 1867 under the patents of W. B.
+Bartram, notably his patent of January 1, 1867. Three machines were
+exhibited at The Eleventh Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association in 1869 where they were awarded a bronze medal.
+They were compared favorably to the Willcox & Gibbs machine (see fig.
+39), which they resembled. Bartram received additional patents in the
+early seventies and also manufactured lockstitch machines.
+
+Using serial numbers, machines may be approximately dated as follows:
+1-2958, 1867; 2959-3958, 1868; 3959-4958, 1869; 4959-5958, 1870;
+5959-6962, 1871; 6963-7961, 1872; 7962-8961, 1873; and 8962-9211, 1874.
+(Smithsonian photo P63198.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 75.--BECKWITH SEWING MACHINE, 1871. Among the
+inventors whose patent claims were "to produce a cheap and effective
+sewing machine" was William G. Beckwith. His machine was first
+manufactured by Barlow & Son, and it realized considerable success in
+the few years of its production. The earliest model was operated like a
+pair of scissors or with a cord and ring as illustrated. Beckwith later
+added a hand crank. The machine was purchased in Crewe, Cheshire,
+England; it is stamped "Pat. April 18, 71 by Wm. G. Beckwith, Foreign
+Pats. Secured, Barlow & Son Manuf. N.Y., [serial number] 706." By 1874
+the machines were marked "Beckwith S.M. Co." and two 1872 patent dates
+were added.
+
+Using serial numbers, machines may be dated approximately as follows:
+1-3500, 1871; 3501-7500, 1872; 7501-12500, 1873; 12501-18000, 1874;
+18001-23000, 1875; 23001-?, 1876. (Smithsonian photo 46953-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 76.--BOUDOIR SEWING MACHINE, 1858. This machine, a
+single-thread, chainstitch model was based on the patents of Daniel
+Harris, dated June 9, 1857, June 16, 1857, and October 5, 1858.
+Manufactured primarily by Bennett in Chicago in 1859, it also may have
+been produced in the East, although no manufacturer's name can be found.
+
+In 1860, the Boudoir, also called Harris's Patent sewing machine, was
+exhibited at the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association
+Exhibition where it won a silver medal for "its combination of parts,
+its beauty and simplicity, together with its ease of operation." At this
+time the machine was described as making a "double lock stitch" (another
+name for the double chainstitch). It was also described as having been
+before the public for some time and combining "the improvements of
+others for which the parties pay license." The machine head was
+positioned on the stand similarly to that of the West & Willson (fig.
+127) and stitched from left to right.
+
+It is not known exactly how many of these machines were made or how long
+they were in vogue. Manufacture, although probably ceasing in the 1860s,
+is known to have been discontinued before 1881, when a list of obsolete
+sewing machines was published in _The Sewing Machine News_. (Smithsonian
+photo P63199.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 77.--(NEW) BUCKEYE SEWING MACHINE of about 1875.
+The Buckeye machine was one of several manufactured by W. G. Wilson of
+Cleveland, Ohio. It was licensed under Johnson's extended patent of
+April 18, 1867. Although it was small and hand turned, it used two
+threads and a shuttle to form a lockstitch. The machine was sufficiently
+popular for Wilson to introduce an improved model in the early 1870s,
+which he called the New Buckeye. W. G. Wilson continued to manufacture
+sewing machines until about the mid-eighties, although the Buckeye
+machines were discontinued in the seventies. (Smithsonian photo
+45524-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 78.--CENTENNIAL SEWING MACHINE, 1876. The
+Centennial machine was basically a McLean and Hooper sewing machine
+which was renamed to take advantage of the coming Centennial
+celebration. It was based on the patents of J. N. McLean, March 30,
+1869, and August 2, 1870, and made a two-thread chainstitch. Only about
+five hundred Centennial machines were manufactured in 1873, but by 1876
+over three thousand had been constructed. The machines were advertised
+on white circulars which were printed in red and blue, and engraved with
+two women sewing, one by hand, labeled "Sewing in 1776," and one at a
+Centennial sewing machine, labeled "Sewing in 1876." There is no record
+that the machines were made after 1876. (Smithsonian photo 48216-T.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 79.--CLARK'S Revolving-Looper double-thread sewing
+machine, 1860. This machine was manufactured by Lamson, Goodnow, & Yale
+of Windsor, Vermont. It was an attempt to improve on the combined ideas
+of the Grover and Baker machine, the Nettleton & Raymond machine, and
+the earlier single-thread Windsor machine. The improvements were made
+and patented by Edwin Clark on December 6, 1859. Widely advertised, the
+machines sold for $35 with a foot-power table. They could also be
+operated by hand. Over three thousand were manufactured and sold, and
+preparations were being made to continue manufacture of the earlier
+single-thread Windsor, originally made by the company's predecessor,
+Vermont Arms Co., when the Civil War broke out. A flood of arms orders
+arrived, and the sewing-machine manufacture was discontinued early in
+the summer of 1861. The sewing-machine equipment and business was sold
+to Grout & White of Massachusetts. (Smithsonian photo 48216.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 80.--DU LANEY SEWING MACHINE of about 1872. Most
+of the small, simple, chainstitch sewing machines of this period were
+constructed so that they could either be turned by hand or set into a
+treadle-powered table. Du Laney's Little Monitor, manufactured for only
+a few years, was based on the patents of G.L. Du Laney, July 3, 1866,
+and May 2, 1871. It was a two-thread, chainstitch machine powered only
+by a foot treadle. By simple adjustment, the machine could also make the
+cablestitch and the lockstitch. (Smithsonian photo 48221-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 81.--EUREKA SEWING MACHINE, 1859. An example of
+the many short-lived types of which no written record can be found, this
+particular machine was used as a patent model for certain minor
+improvements in 1859. It has the name "Eureka" painted on the top and
+the following inscription incised on the baster plate: "Eureka Shuttle
+S. M. Co. 469 Broadway, N.Y." Although it is a shuttle machine, it
+carries no patent dates and was not included in the Howe royalty
+records. Neither is it listed in the obsolescence list published in
+1881. The company probably could not pay its royalty fees and was forced
+out of business almost immediately. If this machine had not been used as
+a patent model, no record of the company's existence might remain. It
+should be noted that as in most shuttle machines the head was meant to
+be set into a treadle-powered table. Since most tables are very similar,
+they are not required for identification. (Smithsonian photo 48328-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 82.--M. FINKLE SEWING MACHINE, 1857. The M. Finkle
+machines were manufactured in 1856 and 1857. Sometime before or about
+1859, the inventor, Milton Finkle, formed a partnership and the machines
+were subsequently called M. Finkle & Lyon and later simply Finkle &
+Lyon. In 1859 the machine was awarded a silver medal by the American
+Institute for producing superior manufacturing and family lockstitch
+sewing machines. It also won a silver medal in Boston in 1860 at the
+Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association Exhibition. Although the
+name of the machine was changed to Victor in 1867, the company name
+remained Finkle & Lyon until about 1872 when it was changed to Victor
+also. Victor machines were manufactured until about 1890.
+
+Machines can be dated by their serial number approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_ _Year_
+
+  1-200            1856
+  201-450          1857
+  451-700          1858
+  701-950          1859
+  951-1500         1860
+  1501-3000        1861
+  3001-5000        1862
+  5001-7000        1863
+  7001-9000        1864
+  9001-11000       1865
+  11001-13000      1866
+  13001-15490      1867
+  15491-17490      1868
+  17491-18830      1869
+  18831-21250      1870
+  21251-28890      1871
+  28891-40790      1872
+  40791-48240      1873
+  48241-53530      1874
+  53531-59635      1875
+  59636-65385      1876
+
+No estimates are available for the years 1877 to 1890. (Smithsonian
+photo 48216-A.)]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+<----
+
+[Illustration: Figure 83.--FLORENCE SEWING MACHINE. The Florence machine
+was based on the patents of Leander W. Langdon, whose first patent was
+obtained in 1855. Langdon sewing machines were manufactured by the
+inventor for a few years. It was his patent of March 20, 1860, that was
+the immediate forerunner of the Florence machine, whose name was derived
+from the city of manufacture, Florence, Massachusetts. The Howe royalty
+records of 1860 listed the Florence Sewing Machine Co. as one that took
+out a license that year. Langdon's patent of July 14, 1863, was
+incorporated into the machines manufactured after that date; however,
+the date is always incorrectly stamped "July 18, 1863." In 1865, the
+machine won a silver medal at the Tenth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association.
+
+Over 100,000 Florence machines were manufactured by 1870. About 1880 the
+company changed the name of the machine to Crown. Improvements led to
+the name New Crown by 1885. About this time the right to use the name
+Florence for a sewing machine was purchased by a midwestern firm for an
+entirely different machine. In 1885 the Florence company began to
+manufacture lamp stoves and heating stoves and shortly thereafter they
+discontinued the manufacture of sewing machines.
+
+Using the serial numbers, Florence machines can be dated approximately
+as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-500                1860
+  501-2000             1861
+  2001-8000            1862
+  8001-20000           1863
+  20001-35000          1864
+  35001-50000          1865
+  50001-60000          1866
+  60001-70534          1867
+  70535-82534          1868
+  82535-96195          1869
+  96196-113855         1870
+  113856-129802        1871
+  129803-145592        1872
+  145593-154555        1873
+  154556-160072        1874
+  160073-164964        1875
+  164965-167942        1876
+
+No record of the number of machines produced each year between 1877 and
+1885 is available.
+
+The machine shown here, serial number 49131, was manufactured in 1865.
+It is stamped with the following patent dates: "Oct. 30, 1855, Mar. 20,
+1860, Jan. 22, 1861, and July 18, 1863" and the Wilson patent date "Nov.
+12, 1850." The machines from 1860-1863 are marked with the early Langdon
+patents, excluding the 1863 one, and they have the additional patent
+dates of Howe and others: "Sept. 10, 1846, Nov. 12, 1850, Aug. 12, 1851,
+May 30, 1854, Dec. 19, 1854, Nov. 4, 1856." (Smithsonian photo
+45572-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 84.--GLOBE SEWING MACHINE. J. G. Folsom received
+two design patents in 1864, one on March 1 for a spool holder and one on
+May 17 for the basic style of the machine. Also in the same year, he was
+awarded a mechanical patent for an adjustment in the lower looper that
+would accommodate a change in needle size. Using these patents, he
+manufactured a single-thread, chainstitch machine, the Globe. Folsom
+also exhibited his machines at the Tenth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association in 1865. The Globe attracted particular
+attention and was awarded a silver medal.]
+
+In 1866 Folsom devised a new treadle attachment for hand-operated
+machines; the invention was featured in _Scientific American_, volume
+14, number 17, with a Globe machine. Folsom again exhibited at the
+Massachusetts Mechanics exhibition in 1869. In addition to an improved
+single-thread Globe, he also showed a double-thread, elastic-stitch
+(double chainstitch) machine for which he received a silver medal.
+
+Folsom machines were manufactured until 1871; 280 machines were
+manufactured in that year.
+
+The Globe sewing machine illustrated is stamped "J. G. Folsom, Maker,
+Winchendon, Mass. Patented April 28, 1863 [Ketchum's patent], Mar. 1,
+1864. May 17, 1864." The machine was manufactured before November 1864
+or it would include the patent for the lower loop adjustment.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-H.)
+
+NOTE: At least five sewing machines, those in figures 84 through 89, are
+similar enough in appearance to cause some confusion, because their
+basic design stems from a short pillar.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 85.--GLOBE SEWING MACHINE with treadle attachment
+as illustrated in _Scientific American_, April 21, 1866. (Smithsonian
+photo 48221-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 86.--EMPIRE SEWING MACHINE, late 1860s. Although
+an Empire Sewing Machine Co. existed in New York in the 1860s (the
+predecessor of the Remington-Empire Co.), it is not known whether this
+machine was manufactured by that same company, which was primarily
+concerned with producing shuttle machines. This chainstitch machine is
+marked "Empire Co., Patented April 23, 1863," the date referring again
+to Ketchum's patent. It is very similar to Folsom's Globe, except that
+it has claw feet rather than a closed base; the painted designs on the
+base of both are almost identical to those on the Monitor. Its spool
+holder, mounted in reverse, is a crude imitation of the Folsom patent.
+The Empire machines were probably manufactured about the same time as
+the Wilson machine. (_Photo courtesy of The Henry Ford Museum and
+Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 87.--ATWATER SEWING MACHINE, 1858. Atwater
+machines, based on the patent of B. Atwater, issued May 5, 1857, were
+manufactured from 1857 to about 1860. The machine illustrated, which is
+designed to be operated by a hand-turned wheel, has an upper forked dog
+feed, and its horizontally supported spool is directly over the
+stitching area. Like the others, it has a striated pillar and claw feet.
+The manufacturer is unknown. (Smithsonian photo P63200.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 88.--MONITOR SEWING MACHINE, 1860-1866. The
+Monitor machines of this style were not marked by their manufacturers,
+Shaw & Clark of Biddeford, Maine. Later the company was forced by the
+"Combination" to pay a royalty, so it changed the style and began
+marking its machines with the company name and patent dates (see fig.
+119 for copy of seal). The Monitor, which employed the conventional
+vertical spindle to hold the spool of thread, had a top feed in the form
+of a walking presser. Its striated pillar was similar to that of the
+Atwater machine, and both featured the same claw feet and urn-like top.
+Unlike the Atwater, however, the Monitor had a double drive from the
+hand-turned wheel, which was grooved for operation with belt and
+treadle. (Smithsonian photo 33458.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 89.--WILSON SEWING MACHINE, late 1860s to early
+1870s. In addition to the Buckeye (see fig. 77), W. G. Wilson
+manufactured several other styles of sewing machines. This one, a
+combination of the varying styles of the earlier pillar machine has even
+duplicated the general style of the spool holder patented by Folsom. The
+pillar is not striated, but the machine does repeat the claw feet of the
+Atwater and Monitor machines. Wilson machines are usually marked "Wilson
+Sewing Mach. Manuf'g Co. Cleveland, Ohio, Ketchum's Patent April 28,
+1863." The latter name and/or patent date are found on many of the
+machines of this general construction. The patent is that issued to
+Stephen C. Ketchum for his method of converting rotary motion into
+reciprocal motion. (_Photo courtesy of The Henry Ford Museum and
+Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 90.--GRANT BROTHERS SEWING MACHINE, 1867. This
+machine was one of several styles that utilized Raymond's 1861 patented
+chainstitch method. This machine, however, used an under feed rather
+than a top feed.
+
+Neither a name nor a date appears on the machine. In the June 25, 1907,
+issue of the _Sewing Machine Times_ it was called the Common Sense
+machine, but detailed research has turned up no evidence to substantiate
+this name. However, a dated brochure advertising the Grant Brothers
+machine and showing a model identical to that illustrated in the _Sewing
+Machine Times_ has been found. The brochure states that the machine made
+an elastic lockstitch; this was not a true lockstitch, however, but was
+in fact a simple chainstitch.
+
+Grant Brothers sold their machine, which had silver-plated mountings,
+for $18; the price included hemmer, Barnum's self-sewer, oilcan,
+screwdriver, clamp, gauge, and four silver needles. An additional charge
+of $12 was made for a table and treadle. Compared to other chainstitch
+machines the price was high, and the company was short-lived.
+(Smithsonian photo 60794-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 91.--GREENMAN AND TRUE SEWING MACHINE. This
+lockstitch machine based on S. H. Roper's patent of 1857 was
+manufactured at Norwich, Connecticut, from 1859 to 1861 by Cyrus B.
+True, the inventor, and Jared F. Greenman, True's financial partner.
+Licensed by the "Combination" and carrying the Howe patent date, the
+machine had obvious merit: it was strong, well made--a good family
+machine. Exhibited at the Ninth Exhibition of the Massachusetts
+Charitable Mechanics Association in September 1860, it received a bronze
+medal. (At this time the company was listed as Morse and True--the
+inventor had obviously taken on a second financial backer.)
+Unfortunately, the best market for the machine lay in the South, and the
+outbreak of the Civil War made collections impossible. This greatly
+retarded business and finally drove the firm into bankruptcy. In all, it
+is doubtful that more than one thousand machines were produced in the
+three years of manufacture.
+
+The machine illustrated is marked "Greenman and True" and bears the
+serial number 402; it was probably manufactured early in 1860.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-N.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 92.--GROVER AND BAKER SEWING MACHINE. The Grover
+and Baker machine was one of the more popular machines from the 1850s
+until the early 1870s. The company produced iron-frame machines, fine
+cabinet models, and portables (figs. 35 and 36). Their machines may be
+dated by serial number approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-500                1851
+  501-1000             1852
+  1001-1658            1853
+  1659-3893            1854
+  3894-5038            1855
+  5039-7000            1856
+  7001-10681           1857
+  10682-15752          1858
+  15753-26033          1859
+  26034-44869          1860
+  44870-63705          1861
+  63706-82641          1862
+  82642-101477         1863
+  101478-120313        1864
+  120314-139148        1865
+  139149-157886        1866
+  157887-190886        1867
+  190887-225886        1868
+  225887-261004        1869
+  261005-338407        1870
+  338408-389246        1871
+  389247-441257        1872
+  441258-477437        1873
+  477438-497438        1874
+  497439-512439        1875
+
+(Smithsonian photo 45513-B, an engraving of a Grover and Baker sewing
+machine from an advertising brochure of about 1870.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 93.--HANCOCK SEWING MACHINE, 1867. One of the many
+inventors who turned his talents to inventing and producing a
+mechanically simple and cheaper machine was Henry J. Hancock. His 1867
+machine is only about six inches wide; it uses a tambour-type needle,
+pulling a loop of thread from below the stitching surface. (Smithsonian
+photo P63197.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 94.--HANCOCK SEWING MACHINE, 1868. Hancock in 1868
+received both a design patent and a mechanical patent now using the
+eye-pointed needle and a hook to form the chainstitch. The design was an
+open framework circle with a mirror mounted in front of the table clamp.
+The purpose of the designated "looking glass" was decorative only. The
+Hancock machines were only manufactured for a few years. They measure
+10-1/2 inches in width, slightly larger than the earlier machine.
+(Smithsonian photo 48328-M.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 95.--[A.C.] HERRON'S PATENT SEWING MACHINE, 1858.
+The manufacturer of this machine is not known, but the machine was based
+on the patent of Abial C. Herron issued August 4, 1857. All the machines
+carry a small heart-shaped plate just above the needle descent bearing
+the patentee's name and the patent date. The patent covered an
+improvement in the method of making the chainstitch. The machines were
+provided with a hand crank, but were also meant to be operated by a belt
+and treadle. No records of the extent of manufacture of this machine
+have been found. This machine head measures 14 inches in width, about
+standard size. (Smithsonian photo 48329-J.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 96.--A. B. HOWE SEWING MACHINE of about 1860.
+(Smithsonian photo 45525-C.)]
+
+Figures 96, 97, and 98.--THE HOWE MACHINES. It is difficult for many to
+believe that the stamped legend "Elias Howe patent, Sept. 10, 1846" does
+not certify that a machine is an original Howe. Although Elias Howe was
+granted a patent for the lockstitch machine in 1846, he did not
+establish a sewing-machine factory for about twenty years. Early in the
+1850s and later through the "Combination," however, he licensed others
+to make machines using his patent. These machines bore that patent date
+for which a royalty was being paid.
+
+Among his early licensees was his elder brother Amasa who organized the
+Howe Sewing Machine Co. in 1854. The Amasa Howe machines were very good
+ones, and in 1862 Amasa won the prize medal at the London International
+Exhibition. This immensely increased the popularity of the machine and
+Elias offered to join Amasa by building a large factory at Bridgeport,
+Connecticut, to fill the increasing demand for more machines. The
+machines produced at Bridgeport, however, although imitating the Amasa
+Howe machines, proved inferior in quality. Amasa found that, rather than
+helping his business reputation, his brother's efforts were hurting him,
+and he severed business relations with Elias.
+
+Because of their brief association, the 1862 prize medal awarded to A.
+B. Howe was sometimes credited to Elias. The latter did receive awards
+for his patent, but never for his manufactured machines. When the two
+brothers dissolved their joint venture, Elias attempted to call his new
+company the Howe Sewing Machine Co., but Amasa's claim that this name
+had been his exclusive property for many years was upheld by the courts.
+Elias then omitted the word "Sewing" and called his company simply the
+Howe Machine Co.
+
+After Elias died in 1867, the company was run by his sons-in-law, the
+Stockwell brothers. To distinguish their machines from those of A. B.
+Howe, they marked each machine with a brass medallion picturing the head
+and flowing locks of Elias Howe. They also continued to advertise their
+machine as the "original" Howe. In about 1873, B. P. Howe, Amasa's son,
+sold the Howe Sewing Machine Co. to the Stockwell brothers, who
+continued to manufacture Howe machines until 1886.
+
+The machines of the A. B. Howe Sewing Machine Co. may be dated by serial
+number approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-60                 1854
+  61-113               1855
+  114-166              1856
+  167-299              1857
+  300-478              1858
+  479-1399             1859
+
+No figures are available for 1860-1870, but 20,051 machines were
+manufactured in 1871.
+
+The machines of the [Elias] Howe Machine Co. are not believed to have
+begun with serial number 1, and no figures are available for 1865-1867.
+After that, the machines may be dated by serial number approximately as
+follows:
+
+_Serial Number_ _Year_
+
+11,000-46,000        1868
+46,001-91,843        1869
+91,844-167,000       1870
+167,001-301,010      1871
+301,011-446,010      1872
+446,011-536,010      1873
+536,011-571,010      1874
+571,011-596,010      1875
+596,011-705,304      1876
+
+No figures are available for 1877-1886.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 97.--ADVERTISING BROCHURE distributed by E. Howe
+during the brothers' brief partnership; the machines are basically A. B.
+Howe machines, 1863. (Smithsonian photo 49373-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 98.--HOWE (STOCKWELL BROTHERS) MACHINE, 1870.
+(Smithsonian photo 45572-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 99.--PATENT MODEL OF CHRISTOPHER HODGKINS,
+November 2, 1852, assigned to Nehemiah Hunt. (Smithsonian photo 34551.)]
+
+Figures 99, 100, and 101.--THE N. HUNT (later, in 1856, Hunt & Webster
+and finally in 1858 Ladd and Webster) sewing machine was based on the
+patents of Christopher Hodgkins, November 2, 1852, and May 9, 1854, both
+of which were assigned to Nehemiah Hunt. First manufactured in 1853, the
+machine, which closely resembled the Hodgkins' patent, won a silver
+medal at the exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics
+Association that same year.
+
+In 1856 Hunt took a partner, and the company became Hunt & Webster. An
+interesting account of this company appeared as a feature article in
+_Ballou's Pictorial_, July 5, 1856, where it was reported that "the
+North American Shoe Company have over fifty of the latest improved
+machines, represented in these drawings [fig. 31], now running...." The
+article also estimated that a 55-million dollar increase in shoe
+manufacturing in Massachusetts in 1855 was due to the sewing machine. In
+1856 the Hunt & Webster machine again won a silver medal at the
+exhibition. Very late in 1858 the company became Ladd, Webster, & Co.
+and continued to manufacture both family and manufacturing sewing
+machines until the mid-1860s.
+
+The approximate date of manufacture can be determined by serial number:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-100                1853
+  101-368              1854
+  369-442              1855
+  443-622              1856
+  623-1075             1857
+  1076-1565            1858
+  1566-3353            1859
+
+No figures are available for the 1860s.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 100.--RIGHT: HUNT & WEBSTER sewing machine of
+about 1855, serial number 414. (Smithsonian photo 48216-V.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 101.--LADD, WEBSTER & CO. sewing machine of about
+1858, Boston, serial number 1497. (Smithsonian photo 46953.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 102.--IMPROVED COMMON SENSE sewing machine of
+about 1870. This machine is so very similar to the New England machines
+in its feed, threading, looping mechanism, and in its general design,
+that it is sometimes mistaken for the earlier New England machines (see
+figs. 112 and 113).
+
+Dating from the early 1870s, the Improved Common Sense machine is about
+10 inches in width, two inches larger than the New England machine. The
+spool holder is similar to Folsom's patented design, but is less
+refined. A page from an advertising brochure of the period verifies the
+name of the machine, but does not identify the manufacturer.
+
+There are no patent dates or identifying names or numbers on the machine
+illustrated. Although the Empire Co. also produced a machine of this
+style, their models are marked with their name and with Ketchum's patent
+date, April 23, 1863. Of the several styles of machine using the Raymond
+looper, this type seems to account for the largest volume manufactured,
+as evidenced by the proportionately higher number of examples still
+extant. (Smithsonian photo 48328-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 103.--JOHNSON SEWING MACHINE, 1857. Another of the
+all-but-forgotten manufacturers of the 1850s was Emery, Houghton & Co.,
+who constructed the A.F. Johnson machines. Examination of existing
+machines indicates that they were manufactured in 1856 and 1857, and
+possibly a little longer. This one from 1857 bears the serial number
+624, so we know that several hundred were manufactured. The head is
+ornately attractive, slightly reminiscent of Wheeler & Wilson models,
+and of standard size. (Smithsonian photo 48329-B.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 104.--"LADY" SEWING MACHINE of about 1859. The
+contemporary name of this machine is unknown. The unusual design of the
+head, or main support, is based in part on the design patent, number
+216, of Isaac F. Baker, issued April 10, 1849, for a "new and useful
+design[,] for ornamenting furniture[,] called Cora Munro" who was a
+character in James Fenimore Cooper's _Last of the Mohicans_. The design
+shows a female figure wearing a riding dress and hat that is ornamented
+with a plume and a bow. Her right hand holds a riding stick and the
+left, her skirt. Trunks of trees and foliage complete the Baker design,
+which is known to have been used for girandoles of the period. A
+companion design was also patented by Baker, number 215, which is in the
+form of a man in military costume and is named "Major Heyward," for
+another character in _Last of the Mohicans_.
+
+The sewing machines based on the "Cora Munro" design also use branch
+designs as the overhanging arms. A mother bird sits in the upper branch
+and descends to feed a young bird as the machine is in operation. The
+one illustrated was used as the machine submitted with a request for
+patent by George Hensel of New York City for which patent 24,737 was
+issued on July 12, 1859. Since Hensel's patent application was for an
+improvement in the feed, there was no need for the highly decorative
+head unless such a machine was commercially available. The patent
+specifications merely state that the head is "ornamented." Another
+sewing machine of this type was used as the patent model by Sidney
+Parker of Sing Sing, New York, number 24,780, issued on the same date as
+the Hensel patent. Parker's patent also covered an improved feeding
+mechanism. In the patent description, however, the inventor states that
+"the general form of the machine is not unlike others now in use." By
+this he might have meant in the design, or possibly in the basic
+structural form. Other than the two machines described, no other
+examples are known to have survived, but "Lady" or "Cora Munro" sewing
+machines were manufactured. (Smithsonian photo 45506-D.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 105.--LANDFEAR'S PATENT SEWING MACHINE of about
+1857. Another of the many machines that, except for isolated examples,
+have almost completely disappeared from the records is Landfear's
+machine. Fortunately, this manufacturer marked his machine--where many
+did not--stamping it: "Landfear's patent-Dec^r 1856, No. 262, W. H.
+Johnson's Patent Feb. 26th 1856, Manfrd by Parkers, Snow, Brooks & Co.,
+West Meriden, Conn." (There was a Parker sewing machine manufactured by
+the Charles Parker Co. of Meriden, but his machine was a double-thread
+chainstitch machine and was licensed by the "Combination." The Landfear
+machine may have been an earlier attempt by a predecessor or closely
+related company.)
+
+The Landfear patent was for a shuttle machine, but it also included a
+mode for regulating stitch length. The name chosen for this machine may
+be incorrect, since the single-thread chainstitch mechanism is primarily
+that of W. H. Johnson, but since the Johnson patent also was used on
+other machines the name "Landfear" was assigned. The machine was
+probably another attempt to evade royalty payment to the "Combination."
+
+The serial number 262 indicates that at least that many machines were
+manufactured, although this model is the only one known to be in
+existence. The support arm of the machine head is iron, cast as a vase
+of flowers and painted in natural colors. The paint on the head is
+original, but the table has been refinished, and the iron legs, which
+had rusted, have been repainted. (Smithsonian photo 48440-G.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 106.--LATHROP SEWING MACHINE of about 1873. These
+machines were manufactured by the Lathrop Combination Sewing Machine Co.
+under the patents of Lebbeus W. Lathrop of 1869, 1870, and 1873. The
+machine used two threads, both taken from spools; moreover, it produced
+not only the double chainstitch, but it was constructed to produce also
+a lockstitch and a combined "lock and chain stitch." The machine
+illustrated bears the serial number 31 and the patent dates of Grover &
+Baker, and Bachelder among others, in addition to the first two Lathrop
+patent dates. The company lasted only a few years as it is included in
+the 1881 list of manufacturers that had ceased to exist. (Smithsonian
+photo 46953-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 107.--ILLUSTRATION FROM A BROCHURE, marked in ink:
+"The National Portrait Gallery, 1855." Singer Archives. (Smithsonian
+photo 48091-E.)]
+
+Figures 107 and 108.--THE NICHOLS AND LEAVITT sewing machines. One of
+Elias Howe's earliest licensees was J. B. Nichols. His machine,
+manufactured at first with George Bliss and later alone as J. B. Nichols
+& Co., was called Howe's Improved Patent Sewing Machine. It was,
+however, no more a Howe machine than any of the others produced under
+the Howe patent.
+
+In July 1855 Nichols went into partnership with Rufus Leavitt, and the
+company name changed to Nichols, Leavitt & Co. In 1857 it was changed
+again to Leavitt & Co., and finally in the mid-1860s to Leavitt Sewing
+Machine Co. By the 1870s, it was defunct.
+
+The Nichols-Leavitt machines can be dated by their serial numbers
+approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_    _Year_    _Company_
+
+  1-28               1853      Nichols & Bliss
+  29-245             1854      J. B. Nichols & Co.
+  246-397            1855      J. B. Nichols & Co.--Nichols, Leavitt & Co.
+  398-632            1856      Nichols, Leavitt & Co.
+  633-827            1857      Leavitt & Co.
+  828-902            1858               "
+  903-1115           1859               "
+  1116-1436          1860               "
+  1437-1757          1861               "
+  1758-2077          1862               "
+  2078-2400          1863               "
+  2401-2900          1864               "
+  2901-3900          1865      Leavitt Sewing Machine Co.
+  3901-4900          1866               "
+  4901-5951          1867               "
+  5952-6951          1868               "
+  6952-7722          1869               "
+
+There is no record that the company was in existence after 1869.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 108.--LEAVITT SEWING MACHINE of about 1868, serial
+number 6907. (Smithsonian photo 48328.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 109.--LESTER SEWING MACHINE of about 1858. The
+Lester machine was first manufactured by J. H. Lester in Brooklyn, New
+York. His machine was based on the patents of William Johnson, John
+Bradshaw and others but not on the patents held by the "Combination,"
+although he had secured a license. When the Old Dominion Company applied
+for a license from the "Combination," Lester learned of this, went to
+Richmond, and arranged to combine his business with theirs. Since the
+Lester machine was the better one, it was agreed to cease the
+manufacture of the Old Dominion machines early in 1860 and in March the
+company name was changed to the Lester Mfg. Co. Late in 1860, George
+Sloat entered the company with his Elliptic machine; the name was
+changed again, this time to Union Sewing Machine Co. The manufacture of
+both sewing machines continued until the outbreak of the Civil War the
+following year, which brought a conversion to arms production. The
+manufacture of Lester machines was never resumed.
+
+The machine illustrated was manufactured by J. H. Lester in Brooklyn; it
+bears the serial number 96. The number of Lester machines manufactured
+from 1858 through 1861 is not known, but it was probably less than
+1,000. (Smithsonian photo P63359.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 110.--NE PLUS ULTRA of about 1867. Another of the
+interesting hand-turned chainstitch machines of the late 1850s and 1860s
+was patented by O.L. Reynolds. The baster plates and the handle on the
+wheel are missing on this machine, but an interesting shield and
+draped-flag pattern is painted on the base.
+
+Another machine of this type has the following inscription stamped on
+the baster plate: "Ne Plus Ultra, Patent Applied For, 174, O.L.
+Reynolds, Patentee & Manufacturer, Dover N.H." Reynold's patent model,
+March 30, 1858, bears the serial number 110, indicating that the machine
+illustrated here--which bears the serial number 26--was manufactured
+before the patent was obtained. (Smithsonian photo 48216-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 111.--NETTLETON & RAYMOND SEWING MACHINE. One of
+the most ornate of the early, small, hand-turned sewing machines was
+patented and manufactured by Willford H. Nettleton and Charles Raymond
+whose first patent was received on April 14, 1857. The patent model,
+believed to be a commercial machine, is beautifully silver-plated.
+Whether this was a special one-of-a-kind model, or whether the inventors
+tried to make a commercial success of a silver-plated machine is not
+known. The machine made a two-thread chainstitch, taking both threads
+from commercial spools. By October 1857, the inventors had received
+their second patent. This time the machine was brass and gilt--brighter,
+but less expensive. At the same time, Nettleton & Raymond began
+manufacturing sewing-shears machines under the patent of J. E.
+Hendricks.
+
+By the latter half of 1858, Nettleton & Raymond had moved from Bristol,
+Connecticut, to Brattleboro, Vermont. The patented improvement of the
+two-thread chainstitch machine received that year was in the name of
+"Raymond, assignor to Nettleton," although the machines of this type
+bear neither name nor patent date. No record of the price for which they
+were sold has been found, but it would be fair to estimate that it was
+probably about $25. This style of machine was discontinued when the
+manufacture of the simpler, more profitable New England model began, a
+machine that Raymond had initiated just before the partners left
+Bristol. (Smithsonian photo 45505-E.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 112.--RAYMOND PATENT MODEL, March 9, 1858.
+(Smithsonian photo 32009-O.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 113.--NEW ENGLAND sewing machine of about 1860,
+manufactured by Nettleton & Raymond; it bears the Raymond patent date of
+March 9, 1858. (Smithsonian photo 45505-G.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 112 and 113.--NEW ENGLAND SEWING MACHINES. The
+small, hand-turned, sewing machines some of which were called Common
+Sense, were manufactured by at least three companies and possibly more.
+The earliest ones were those made by Nettleton & Raymond based on
+Charles Raymond's patent of March 9, 1858, which featured a hinged
+presser foot acting as the top feed. On July 30, 1861, Raymond received
+a patent for an improved looper; this date is found on all machines
+later manufactured by the inventor.
+
+In 1858 Nettleton and Raymond had moved from Bristol, Connecticut, to
+Brattleboro, Vermont. Also in Brattleboro at this time were Thomas H.
+White and Samuel Barker, who were manufacturing a small machine called
+the Brattleboro. White left Vermont in 1862 and went to Massachusetts.
+There, in partnership with William Grout, he also began to manufacture
+New England machines; these were basically the same as the Raymond
+machines. After a short time, Grout left the partnership with White and
+moved to Winchendon, there continuing to make New England machines for
+approximately one more year. In 1865, J. G. Folsom of Winchendon
+exhibited a New England machine at the Tenth Exhibition of the
+Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Association along with his Globe
+machine. Whether both machines were manufactured by him or whether he
+might have been exhibiting one of Grout's machines is not known.
+
+There is no record that New England machines were manufactured after
+1865. There is a great similarity between these machines and the
+Improved Common Sense sewing machines of the 1870s. It is believed that
+the name "Common Sense" was given by frugal New Englanders to several of
+the cheaper chainstitch machines of the 1860s.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 114.--PRATT'S SECOND PATENT MODEL, March 3, 1857,
+probably a commercial machine. (Smithsonian photo 48328-H.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 114 and 115.--PRATT'S PATENT and the Ladies
+Companion sewing machine. The machines manufactured under the patents of
+Samuel F. Pratt were first sold in 1857 and 1858 as Pratt's patent.
+These machines carry the Pratt name and the patent dates "Feb. 3, 1857
+Mar. 3;" the latter is an 1857 patent date also. In 1859 the Pratt
+machine was called the Ladies Companion and was so marked. It was also
+marked with the 1857 patent dates, the date February 16, 1858, and a
+serial number, and was stamped "Boston, Mass." Manufacture was
+discontinued after a few years.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 115.--LADIES COMPANION, 1859. (_Photo courtesy of
+The Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan._)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 116.--QUAKER CITY SEWING MACHINE. During the first
+decade of sewing-machine manufacture many types of handsome wooden cases
+were developed to house the mechanisms. Although such cases increased
+the total cost, they were greatly admired and were purchased whenever
+family funds permitted. The machine was based on the patents of William
+P. Uhlinger: a mechanical patent for a double chainstitch machine on
+August 17, 1858 (antedated May 8), and a patent for the casing on
+December 28, 1858. The machine head was lowered into the casing as the
+lid was brought forward and closed--an idea much ahead of its time.
+
+This Quaker City machine, serial number 18, was purchased by Benjamin F.
+Meadows of Lafayette, Alabama, for $150 just prior to the Civil War.
+Relatively few machines of this type were manufactured, and the Quaker
+City Sewing Machine Co. existed for only a few years. Its apparent hope
+for a southern market was short-lived, and it was unable to compete
+either with the companies licensed under the "Combination" or with those
+producing less expensive machines. (Smithsonian photo 46953-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 117.--FROM AN ADVERTISING BROCHURE, marked in ink,
+"The National Portrait Gallery, 1855," in the Singer Company's archives.
+The brochure states "Howard & Davis, 34 Water Street, Boston,
+Massachusetts Sole Manufacturers of Robinson's Patent Sewing Machine
+with Rope[r]'s Improvements." (Smithsonian photo 48091-F.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 118.--SEWING MACHINE OF ABOUT 1856 with
+inscription "Howard & Davis Makers, Boston, Mass. Robinson & Roper Pat.
+Dec. 10, 1850, Aug. 15, 1854"; the drive wheel and the circular
+stitching plate of this machine are missing. (Smithsonian photo
+48440-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 117 and 118.--ROBINSON AND ROPER sewing machines,
+1855-1856. This is one of the few machines producing a backstitch or
+half backstitch to realize any commercial success. Manufactured a very
+short time by Howard & Davis, it was a short-thread machine, based on
+the Frederick Robinson patent of December 10, 1850, and the Samuel Roper
+patent of August 15, 1854. Roper produced additional improvements for
+which he received a patent on November 4, 1856. In the _Scientific
+American_, November 1, 1856, the new machine was discussed: "Robinson &
+Roper exhibit their new improved sewing machines, which appear to
+operate with great success. Two needles are employed, the points of
+which are furnished with hooks that alternately catch the thread and
+form the stitch. The finest kind of cotton thread or silk can be used.
+The work appears well done. Price $100."]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 119.--ILLUSTRATED PAGE in a Shaw & Clark
+advertising brochure, published in late 1864. (Smithsonian photo
+61321.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 120.--SHAW & CLARK SEWING MACHINE (Page patent) of
+1867, Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts. (Smithsonian photo 48216-L.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 119 and 120.--SHAW & CLARK SEWING MACHINES. In
+addition to the early style Monitor sewing machine sold by Shaw & Clark
+without a name or any identifying marks, the company continued to
+manufacture machines after a lawsuit with the "Combination" forced them
+to take out a license. They manufactured an adapted version of their
+Monitor and an entirely new design patented in 1861. Their machines were
+now marked with the company name and a list of patent dates including
+those of Howe, Wheeler and Wilson, Grover and Baker, and Singer and the
+Batchelder patent, together with their own design patents. In 1867 the
+company moved from Biddeford, Maine, to Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts.
+In the same year, they began manufacturing a machine of the design
+patented by T. C. Page. The company is believed to have become the
+Chicopee Sewing Machine Company which appeared the following year and
+remained in business only a very short time. One Chicopee sewing machine
+is in the Smithsonian collection.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 121.--SINGER "Traverse Shuttle Machine--Letter A."
+(Smithsonian photo 58984.)]
+
+Figures 121 and 122.--SINGER SEWING MACHINES. From 1850 to 1858 the
+Singer company produced heavy manufacturing-type sewing machines similar
+to the patent model shown earlier (fig. 28). The first machine for
+family use, Singer's new "Family" sewing machine (fig. 33) was
+manufactured from 1858-1861. Their second-style family machine was
+called the "Traverse Shuttle Machine--Letter A;" it was manufactured
+from 1859 to 1865, when they introduced their third family machine and
+called it the "New Family" sewing machine. This style machine continued
+until about 1883 when the "Improved Family" machine appeared. In
+addition to the lockstitch machines, Singer also manufactured
+chainstitch machines, and many highly specialized manufacturing
+machines.
+
+From 1857 through the 1880s, the Singer machines were marked with two
+serial numbers. It is possible that the numbers were related to the
+"Combination" royalties paid by the Singer company. Until about 1873
+there was a difference of exactly 4,000 in the two numbers, thus one
+machine would be marked 12163 and directly below it would be marked
+16163. From 1873 the last three digits of the two numbers continued to
+be the same but the lower number might be much lower in value than
+either number used in earlier years. The larger number is believed to
+have been a record of total production while the lower number may have
+referred to a machine of a particular style. The Singer company records
+can shed no light on the meaning of the top (or lower of the two) serial
+numbers. Generally, in the earlier machines, the difference in the two
+numbers will not affect the dating of a machine by more than one year.
+Since dating by serial number can only be estimated, the two numbers do
+not add an appreciable variable prior to 1873. Only the larger number,
+however, should be considered in dating machines after 1873.
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-100                1850
+  101-900              1851
+  901-1711             1852
+  1712-2521            1853
+  2522-3400            1854
+  3401-4283            1855
+  4284-6847            1856
+  6848-10477           1857
+  10478-14071          1858
+  14072-25024          1859
+  25025-43000          1860
+  43001-61000          1861
+  61001-79396          1862
+  79397-99426          1863
+  99427-123058         1864
+  123059-149399        1865
+  149400-180360        1866
+  180361-223414        1867
+  223415-283044        1868
+  283045-369826        1869
+  369827-497660        1870
+  497661-678921        1871
+  678922-898680        1872
+  898681-1121125       1873
+  1121126-1362805      1874
+  1362806-1612658      1875
+  1612659-1874975      1876
+
+Since records of annual production from 1877 to the turn of the century
+are not complete, it is difficult to establish yearly approximations.
+Using the machines submitted as patent models, and thus known to have
+been manufactured before the date of deposit, however, has provided us
+with the following date guides. By 1877 there had been 2 million
+machines manufactured, 3 million by 1880, 4 million by 1882, 5 million
+by 1884, 6 million by 1886, 7 million by 1888, 8 million by 1889, 9
+million by 1890, and 10 million by 1891.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 122.--SINGER "New Family" sewing machine.
+(Smithsonian photo 58987.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 123.--STANDARD SEWING MACHINE of about 1870. This
+chainstitch machine is believed to have been made by the company that
+later became the Standard Shuttle Sewing Machine Company, when they
+began manufacturing lockstitch machines about 1874. This machine is
+marked with the name, "Standard," and with the dates "Patented July 14,
+1870, Patented Jan. 22, 1856, Dec. 9, 1856, Dec. 12, 1865." The dates
+refer to the reissue and extended reissue of the Bachelder and the A. B.
+Wilson patents. The number of chainstitch machines of this type that
+were manufactured is not known. (Smithsonian photo 45506-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 124.--TAGGART & FARR sewing machine, front view.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-P.)]
+
+Figures 124 and 125.--TAGGART & FARR sewing machine, 1860. The Taggart &
+Farr is an almost forgotten machine. It was based on Chester Farr's
+patent of August 9, 1859. The machine, however, was in commercial
+production as early as 1858, the year the patent application was made.
+Using two threads--both taken directly from the spool--to form a
+chainstitch, the machine was operated basically by treadle but also by
+hand. The drive wheel is missing on this machine, but it would normally
+appear on the right.
+
+The name and patent date were painted on the end of the machine. This
+was true of many other machines of this period, which is why so many go
+unidentified once the paint has become worn. Several thousand Taggart &
+Farr machines were manufactured, but the company is believed to have had
+a short life, for it was among those that had disappeared by 1881.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 125.--TAGGART & FARR sewing machine, end view.
+(Smithsonian photo 48216-M.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 126.--WATSON SEWING MACHINE, 1856, illustrated in
+Scientific American, December 13, 1856. The earliest Watson machines
+were two-thread lockstitch machines, as described in the _Scientific
+American_, August 10, 1850. Although the magazine reported that the
+inventor had applied for a patent, the earliest lockstitch patent issued
+to William C. Watson was on March 11, 1856. A few of his machines were
+made in 1850, the article continued, "several of these machines are
+nearly finished ... persons desirous of seeing them can be gratified by
+calling upon Messrs. Jones & Lee." A Watson machine was exhibited by
+Jones & Lee at the Sixth Exhibition of the Massachusetts Charitable
+Mechanics Association held in Boston in September 1850.
+
+In 1853 a Watson machine was exhibited at the New York Industry of All
+Nations Exhibition, but this was a single-looping machine; Watson
+received a patent for this single-thread machine on November 25, 1856.
+
+In the December 13, 1856, issue of _Scientific American_ a machine
+called Watson's "Family" sewing machine was illustrated and described.
+It was a small machine (only 8 by 5 inches) manufactured by Watson &
+Wooster and selling for $10. References to the Watson single-thread
+machine occur as late as 1860, but no examples are known to have
+survived. (Smithsonian photo 48221-B.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 127.--WEST & WILLSON SEWING MACHINE of about 1859.
+The West & Willson machine, manufactured under the patent of H. B. West
+and H. F. Willson, enjoyed a very brief span of popularity. The patent
+covered the peculiar method of operating a spring-looper in combination
+with an eye-pointed needle to form a single chainstitch, but whether
+machines of this single-thread variety were manufactured is unknown. The
+machine illustrated here is a two-thread machine of basically the same
+description. It stitches from left to right and bears serial number 1544
+and the inscription "West & Willson Co. patented June 29, 1858."
+(Smithsonian photo 49456-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 128.--WHEELER & WILSON SEWING MACHINE of about
+1872. Serial number 670974. (Smithsonian photo P63149-A.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 129.--WHEELER AND WILSON NO. 8 sewing machine of
+about 1876. (Smithsonian photo 17663-C.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figures 128 and 129.--Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines.
+The Wheeler and Wilson company was the largest manufacturer of sewing
+machines in the 1850s and the 1860s.
+
+It began in 1851 as A. B. Wilson; from 1852 to 1856 it was the Wheeler,
+Wilson & Co., Watertown, Connecticut; and from 1856 to 1876, it was
+Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co., Bridgeport, Connecticut.
+
+The style of the head changed very little during these years (see figs.
+26 and 27). Both a table style with iron legs and a cabinet model were
+made: the head was usually mounted to stitch from left to right. In
+1861, the company introduced the famous glass presser foot, patented on
+March 5 of that year by J. L. Hyde. The presser foot was made of metal
+but shaped like an open [?] into which was slid a small glass plate, with a
+hole for the needle descent. The glass allowed the seamstress to observe
+the stitching and to produce very close-edge stitching. It remained a
+favorite of many women for years. In 1876, the new No. 8 machine was
+introduced and a new series of serial numbers was initiated. It is,
+therefore, imperative to know that the machine is one of the earlier
+style machines before using the following list of serial numbers to date
+the machines, approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-200                1851
+  201-650              1852
+  651-1449             1853
+  1450-2205            1854
+  2206-3376            1855
+  3377-5586            1856
+  5587-10177           1857
+  10178-18155          1858
+  18156-39461          1859
+  39462-64563          1860
+  64564-83119          1861
+  83120-111321         1862
+  111322-141099        1863
+  141100-181161        1864
+  181161-220318        1865
+  220319-270450        1866
+  270451-308505        1867
+  308506-357856        1868
+  357857-436722        1869
+  436723-519930        1870
+  519931-648456        1871
+  648457-822545        1872
+  822546-941735        1873
+  941736-1034563       1874
+  1034564-1318303      1875
+  1138304-1247300      1876
+
+Records of the second series of serial numbers dating from 1876 are not
+available.]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 130.--WHITE SEWING MACHINE. Although the White
+sewing machines date from 1876, Thomas H. White had been busy in the
+manufacture of sewing machines for many years prior to this. White is
+known to have been associated with Barker in the manufacture of the
+Brattleboro machine and later with Grout in producing one of the several
+New England machines. In 1866 he moved to Cleveland, Ohio, and began
+manufacturing machines for sale under special trade names through
+selling organizations. In 1876, the White Sewing Machine Company was
+formed and machines were sold under the White name.
+
+The machine illustrated is a standard lockstitch machine, which would
+have been set into a sewing-machine table and operated by a treadle. The
+small handle was used to start the wheel, and thus the stitching
+operation, in the forward direction. This machine bears the serial
+number 28241 and the following patents: "Mar. 14, 1876, May 2, 1876,
+Oct. 24, 1876, Jan. 16, 1877, Mar. 20, 1877, Mar. 27, 1877," which are
+primarily the patents of D'Arcy Porter and George W. Baker.
+
+The machines of the 1870s may be dated approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-9000               1876
+  9000-27000           1877
+  27001-45000          1878
+  45001-63000          1879
+
+(Smithsonian photo 48329-H.)]
+
+[Illustration: Figure 131.--WILLCOX AND GIBBS SEWING MACHINE, serial
+number 296572, of about 1878. From 1857 to the turn of the century, the
+style of the Willcox and Gibbs sewing machine changed very little (fig.
+39). It was the most popular and the most reliable of the many
+chainstitch machines. In addition to the basic mechanical patents, Gibbs
+also patented the design of the sewing-machine head in 1860. In the
+specifications, he described it as an open ring set on a base or
+pedestal. The lower part of the open section supported the cloth plate.
+The design of the head, intentionally or not, formed a perfect letter G,
+the initial of the inventor. Later the machine head as a letter G was
+incorporated into the company's trademark. Additional patents were also
+granted to James Willcox for a leg and treadle design and to Charles
+Willcox for mechanical improvements.
+
+It has not been possible to secure information on records of serial
+numbers from the late 1870s through the 1920s to aid in dating machines
+of that period. For the preceding years, however, the machines may be
+dated approximately as follows:
+
+  _Serial Number_     _Year_
+
+  1-10000              1857
+  10001-20000          1858
+  20001-30000          1859
+  30001-40000          1860
+  40001-50000          1861
+  50001-60000          1862
+  60001-70000          1863
+  70001-80000          1864
+  80001-90000          1865
+  90001-100000         1866
+  100001-115000        1867
+  115001-130000        1868
+  130001-145000        1869
+  145001-160000        1870
+  160001-190127        1871
+  190128-223766        1872
+  223767-239647        1873
+  239648-253357        1874
+  253358-267879        1875
+  267880-279637        1876
+
+Although the Willcox and Gibbs company is still in existence, for the
+past several decades the company has limited itself to the production of
+specialized manufacturing machines rather than family machines.
+(Smithsonian photo 58986.)]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+<----
+
+[Illustration: Figure 132.--ILLUSTRATION from _Knights American
+Mechanical Dictionary_, vol. 3, p. 2122. The 68 sewing-machine stitches
+in use by 1882 are as follows:
+
+     SINGLE THREAD
+
+      1. Running stitch.
+
+      2. Back stitch.
+
+      3. Fast stitch.
+
+      4. Chainstitch.
+
+      5. Coiled-loop chainstitch.
+
+      6. Knitted-loop chainstitch.
+
+      7. Knotted-loop chainstitch.
+
+      8. Loop enchained by second alternate stitch.
+
+      9. Each loop locks and enchains alternate loops.
+
+     10. Staple stitch (for waxed threads only).
+
+     TWO THREADS
+
+     11. Double-needle chainstitch.
+
+     12. Double-thread chainstitch (one needle).
+
+     13. Double-looped chainstitch.
+
+     14. Chain with interlocking thread.
+
+     15. Under-thread through its own loop.
+
+     16. Two needles penetrate fabric from opposite sides.
+
+     17. Two needles working from the same side.
+
+     18. Double interlocking loop.
+
+     19. Lockstitch.
+
+     20. Twist in needle thread.
+
+     21. Double twist in needle thread.
+
+     22. Twist in shuttle thread.
+
+     23. Double twist in shuttle thread.
+
+     24. Knot stitch, shuttle thread knotted at every stitch.
+
+     25. Knot stitch, shuttle thread knotted at every other stitch.
+
+     26. Knot stitch, shuttle thread through the needle thread loop and
+         knotted around the loop.
+
+     27. Shuttle thread pulled to the surface and interlocked with
+         succeeding stitch to form an embroidery stitch.
+
+     28. Wire-lock stitch, thread locked in place with wire.
+
+     THREE THREADS
+
+     29. Two shuttles, each locking alternate loops.
+
+     30. Double loop with interlocking third thread.
+
+     31. Two shuttle threads, both locking each loop.
+
+     32. Two shuttle threads intertwining and locking each loop.
+
+     33. Single thread; loop of needle thread drawn up over the edge and
+         locked by needle at its next descent.
+
+     34. Two threads; loops of needle thread, above and below, extend to
+         the edge of the fabric, and are locked by shuttle thread.
+
+     35. Two threads; needle penetrates back from edge, its loop passed
+         to and interlocked by the needle at its next descent over the
+         edge, and this second needle-loop locked by shuttle thread.
+
+     36. Two threads; shuttle thread drawn up over the edge of the
+         fabric to the line of the needle thread.
+
+     37. Two threads; needle loop through the fabric locked by needle
+         loop over the edge and second loop locked by second thread.
+
+     38. Two threads; edge of fabric covered by shuttle thread.
+
+     39. Three threads; third thread laid around the stitch at the edge
+         of the fabric.
+
+     ORNAMENTAL STITCHES
+
+     40. Zigzag; single thread chainstitch (4).
+
+     41. Zigzag; two-thread lockstitch (19).
+
+     42. Zigzag; two-thread chainstitch (13).
+
+     43. Zigzag; chain stitch with interlocking thread (14).
+
+     44. Zigzag; double loop with interlocking third thread (30).
+
+     45. Zigzag; running stitch (1).
+
+     46. Zigzag; two needles and shuttle.
+
+     47. Zigzag; variation of 46.
+
+     48-52. Zigzag stitches for sewing straw braid.
+
+     53-62. Straight straw-braid stitches.
+
+     63-67. Special embroidery stitches.
+
+     68. Saddler's stitch.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In the _Sewing Machine News_, vol. 3, no. 5, p. 12 (1881), there were
+listed a number of then "defunct" machines and companies. Among these
+are many well-known names and little-known names for which at least one
+additional reference can be found. There are some, however, for which
+this is the only reference to date. These are: Blanchard, Babcock,
+Banner, Brown Rotary, Cottage, Cole, Duplex, Economist, Erie, Gutman,
+Hill, Hancock & Bennett, Jenks, Lockmar, La Favorite, Learned, Leggett,
+McCoy, McCardy, Medallion, McArthur & Co., Monopoly, Moreau, Mack,
+Niagra, New Cannaan, Orphean, Pride-of-the-West, Seamen & Guiness,
+Surprise, Stackpole, Shanks, Stanford, Troy, Utica, United States
+Family, Weaver, Wagner, and Williams. Some of these names may have been
+a "special" name given to machines manufactured by one of the known
+companies, but at least a few are names of machines manufactured for a
+very short time prior to 1881 about which we would like to know more.
+
+
+
+
+III. Chronological List of U.S. Sewing-Machine Patent Models in the
+Smithsonian Collections
+
+
+There are more than seven hundred sewing-machine patent models and a
+similar number of attachment models in the Smithsonian collections. Most
+of these machines were received in 1926 when the Patent Office disposed
+of its collection of hundreds of thousands of models. Prior to 1880,
+models had been required with the patent application; although the
+requirement was discontinued that year, patentees continued to furnish
+models for another decade or so. All models prior to 1836 were lost in a
+Patent Office fire of that year, but since the sewing-machine patent
+history dates from the 1840s, most of the historically important ones of
+this subject have been preserved.
+
+These models form a valuable part of the record of the invention,
+supplementing the drawings and the text of the written specifications.
+The early sewing-machine models were made to order, either by the
+inventor or a commissioned model maker. As soon as sewing machines were
+produced commercially, it was less expensive for the patentee to use a
+commercial machine of the period, to which he added his change or
+improvement, than to have a complete model constructed to order. Some of
+the commercial machines used in this way are the only examples known to
+be in existence, and as such, are of more interest in establishing the
+history of the manufactured machine than for the minor patented changes.
+
+During the period of the "Sewing Machine Combination," many patentees
+attempted to invent and patent "the different machine." This was either
+a radical change in style or an attempt to produce a far less-expensive
+type of machine. These machines were not always put into commercial
+production, but the patent models give an indication of the extent to
+which some inventors went to simplify or vary the mechanics of machine
+sewing.
+
+The following is a list of those sewing-machine patent models in the
+Smithsonian Institution collections:
+
+  _Patentee_                       |_Date_         |_Patent Number_
+                                   |               |
+  Greenough, John J.               |Feb. 21, 1842  |2,466
+  Bean, Benjamin W.                |March 4, 1843  |2,982
+  Corliss, George H.               |Dec. 27, 1843  |3,389
+  Howe, Elias, Jr.                 |Sept. 10, 1846 |4,750
+  Bachelder, John                  |May 8, 1849    |6,439
+  Wilson, Allen B.                 |Nov. 12, 1850  |7,776
+  Robinson, Frederick R.           |Dec. 10, 1850  |7,824
+  Grover & Baker                   |Feb. 11, 1851  |7,931
+  Singer, Isaac M.                 |Aug. 12, 1851  |8,294
+  Wilson, Allen B.                 |Aug. 12, 1851  |8,296
+  Wilson, Allen B.                 |June 15, 1852  |9,041
+  Miller, Charles                  |July 20, 1852  |9,139
+  Avery, Otis                      |Oct. 19, 1852  |9,338
+  Hodgkins, G.                     |Nov. 2, 1852   |9,365
+  Bradeen, J. G.                   |Nov. 2, 1852   |9,380
+  Bates, W. G.                     |Feb. 22, 1853  |9,592
+  Thompson, T. C.                  |March 29, 1853 |9,641
+  Wickersham, W.                   |April 19, 1853 |9,679
+  Johnson, W. H.                   |March 7, 1854  |10,597
+  Harrison, J., Jr.                |April 11, 1854 |10,763
+  Avery, Otis                      |May 9, 1854    |10,880
+  Singer, Isaac                    |May 30, 1854   |10,975
+  Hunt, Walter                     |June 27, 1854  |11,161
+  Roper, S. H.                     |Aug. 15, 1854  |11,531
+  Shaw, P.                         |Sept. 12, 1854 |11,680
+  Ambler, D. C.                    |Nov. 1, 1854   |11,884
+  Robertson, T. J. W.              |Nov. 28, 1854  |12,015
+  Lyon, W.                         |Dec. 12, 1854  |12,066
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |Dec. 12, 1854  |12,074
+  Ward, D. T.                      |Jan. 2, 1855   |12,146
+  Conant, J. S.                    |Jan. 16, 1855  |12,233
+  Smith, H. B.                     |Jan. 16, 1855  |12,247
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Feb. 6, 1855   |12,364
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |March 20, 1855 |12,573
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |May 1, 1855    |12,798
+  Chilcott, J., and Scrimgeour, J. |March 15, 1855 |12,856
+  Durgin, Charles A.               |May 22, 1855   |12,902
+  Bond, J., Jr.                    |May 22, 1855   |12,939
+  Singer, Isaac                    |June 12, 1855  |13,065
+  Harrison, J., Jr.                |Oct. 2, 1855   |13,616
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Oct. 9, 1855   |13,661
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Oct. 9, 1855   |13,662
+  Langdon, L. W.                   |Oct. 30, 1855  |13,727
+  Stedman, G. W.                   |Nov. 27, 1855  |13,856
+  Swingle, A.                      |Feb. 5, 1856   |14,207
+  Watson, Wm. C.                   |March 11, 1856 |14,433
+  Singer, I. M.                    |March 18, 1856 |14,475
+  Grover, W. O.                    |May 27, 1856   |14,956
+  Blodgett, S. C.                  |Aug. 5, 1856   |15,469
+  Roper, S. H.                     |Nov. 4, 1856   |16,026
+  Singer, Isaac M.                 |Nov. 4, 1856   |16,030
+  Gibbs, James E. A.               |Dec. 16, 1856  |16,234
+  Jennings, L.                     |Dec. 16, 1856  |16,237
+  Johnson, A. F.                   |Jan. 13, 1857  |16,387
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |Jan. 20, 1857  |16,434
+  Howe, Elias, Jr.                 |Jan. 20, 1857  |16,436
+  Alexander, Elisa                 |Feb. 3, 1857   |16,518
+  Gray, Joshua                     |Feb. 3, 1857   |16,566
+  Belcher, C. D.                   |March 3, 1857  |16,710
+  Pratt, S. F.                     |March 3, 1857  |16,745
+  Nettleton & Raymond              |April 14, 1857 |17,049
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |June 2, 1857   |17,427
+  Harris, Daniel                   |June 9, 1857   |17,508
+  Harris, Daniel                   |June 16, 1857  |17,571
+  Sage, William                    |June 30, 1857  |17,717
+  Lathbury, E. T.                  |July 7, 1857   |17,744
+  Wickersham, W.                   |Aug. 25, 1857  |18,068
+  Wickersham, W.                   |Aug. 25, 1857  |18,069
+  Behn, Henry                      |Aug. 25, 1857  |18,071
+  Nettleton, Wm. H., and           |Oct. 6, 1857   |18,350
+    Raymond, Charles               |               |
+  Roper, S. H.                     |Oct. 27, 1857  |18,522
+  Fetter, George                   |Dec. 1, 1857   |18,793
+  Watson, W. C.                    |Dec. 8, 1857   |18,834
+  Behn, H.                         |Dec. 15, 1857  |18,880
+  Hubbard, George W.               |Dec. 22, 1857  |18,904
+  Lazelle, W. H.                   |Dec. 22, 1857  |18,915
+  Clark, David W.                  |Jan. 5, 1858   |19,015
+  Fetter, George                   |Jan. 5, 1858   |19,059
+  Clark, David W.                  |Jan. 12, 1858  |19,072
+  Clark, David W.                  |Jan. 19, 1858  |19,129
+  Dimmock, Martial, and            |Jan. 19, 1858  |19,135
+    Rixford, Nathan                |               |
+  Boyd, A. H.                      |Jan. 19, 1858  |19,171
+  Angell, Benjamin J.              |Feb. 9, 1858   |19,285
+  Clark, David W.                  |Feb. 23, 1858  |19,409
+  Raymond, Charles                 |March 9, 1858  |19,612
+  Hendrick, Joseph E.              |March 16, 1858 |19,660
+  Parker, Sidney                   |March 16, 1858 |19,662
+  Gray, Joshua                     |March 16, 1858 |19,665
+  Coates, F. S.                    |March 23, 1858 |19,684
+  Clark, David W.                  |March 23, 1858 |19,732
+  Reynolds, O. S.                  |March 30, 1858 |19,793
+  Bartholf, Abraham                |April 6, 1858  |19,823
+  Savage, E.                       |April 6, 1858  |19,876
+  Atwood, J. E., J. C., and O.     |April 13, 1858 |19,903
+  Bosworth, Chas. F.               |April 20, 1858 |19,979
+  Clark, David W.                  |June 8, 1858   |20,481
+  Herron, A. C.                    |June 15, 1858  |20,557
+  Johnson, A. F.                   |June 22, 1858  |20,686
+  Barnes, W. T.                    |June 29, 1858  |20,688
+  Smith, E. H.                     |June 29, 1858  |20,739
+  West, H. B., and                 |June 29, 1858  |20,753
+    Willson, H. F.                 |               |
+  Miller, W.                       |June 29, 1858  |20,763
+  Blake, Lyman R.                  |July 6, 1858   |20,775
+  Carpenter, Lunan                 |July 27, 1858  |20,990
+  Moore, Charles                   |July 27, 1858  |21,015
+  Smith, E. H.                     |Aug. 3, 1858   |21,089
+  Wheeler and Carpenter            |Aug. 3, 1858   |21,100
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |Aug. 10, 1858  |21,129
+  Uhlinger, W. P.                  |Aug. 17, 1858  |21,224
+  Clark, David W.                  |Aug. 31, 1858  |21,322
+  Blodgett, S. C.                  |Sept. 7, 1858  |21,465
+  Hubbard, G. W.                   |Sept. 14, 1858 |21,537
+  Hendrick, J. E.                  |Oct. 5, 1858   |21,722
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |Oct. 12, 1858  |21,751
+  Sangster, Amos. W.               |Oct. 26, 1858  |21,929
+  Avery, O. and Z. W.              |Nov. 9, 1858   |22,007
+  Spencer and Lamb                 |Nov. 23, 1858  |22,137
+  Perry, James                     |Nov. 23, 1858  |22,148
+  Burnet and Broderick             |Nov. 30, 1858  |22,160
+  Hook, Albert H.                  |Nov. 30, 1858  |22,179
+  Raymond, Charles                 |Nov. 30, 1858  |22,220
+  Bishop, H. H.                    |Dec. 7, 1858   |22,226
+  Pratt, S. F.                     |Dec. 7, 1858   |22,240
+  Atwood, J. E.                    |Dec. 14, 1858  |22,273
+  Fosket, W. A., and               |Jan. 25, 1859  |22,719
+    Savage, Elliot                 |               |
+  Snyder, W.                       |Feb. 15, 1859  |22,987
+  Clark, D. W.                     |May 3, 1859    |23,823
+  Boyd, A. H.                      |May 17, 1859   |24,003
+  Gray, Joshua                     |May 17, 1859   |24,022
+  Hook, Albert H.                  |May 17, 1859   |24,027
+  Spencer, James C.                |May 17, 1859   |24,061
+  Carhart, Peter S.                |May 24, 1859   |24,098
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |June 14, 1859  |24,395
+  Goodwyn, H. H.                   |June 21, 1859  |24,455
+  Grout, William                   |July 5, 1859   |24,629
+  Hensel, George                   |July 12, 1859  |24,737
+  Parker, Sidney                   |July 12, 1859  |24,780
+  Hall, William                    |July 26, 1859  |24,870
+  Hayden, H. W.                    |Aug. 2, 1859   |24,937
+  Kelsey, D.                       |Aug. 2, 1859   |24,939
+  Emswiler, J. B.                  |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,002
+  Farr, C. N.                      |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,004
+  Harrison, James, Jr.             |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,013
+  Tapley, G. S.                    |Aug. 9, 1859   |25,059
+  Barnes, W. T.                    |Aug. 16, 1859  |25,084
+  Booth, Ezekial                   |Aug. 16, 1859  |25,087
+  Hinkley, J.                      |Aug. 23, 1859  |25,231
+  Harrison, James, Jr.             |Aug. 30, 1859  |25,262
+  Buell, J. S.                     |Sept. 13, 1859 |25,381
+  Vogel, Kasimir                   |Oct. 4, 1859   |25,692
+  Woodward, F. G.                  |Oct. 11, 1859  |25,782
+  Barrett, O. D.                   |Oct. 11, 1859  |25,785
+  Barnes, William T.               |Oct. 25, 1859  |25,876
+  Sawyer, Irwin, and Alsop, T.     |Oct. 25, 1859  |25,918
+  Budlong, William G.              |Nov. 1, 1859   |25,946
+  Fosket, William A.,              |Nov. 1, 1859   |25,963
+    and Savage, E.                 |               |
+  Hicks, W. C.                     |Nov. 8, 1859   |26,035
+  Scofield, C.                     |Nov. 8, 1859   |26,059
+  Pearson, William                 |Nov. 22, 1859  |26,201
+  McCurdy, James S.                |Nov. 22, 1859  |26,234
+  Clark, Edwin                     |Dec. 6, 1859   |26,336
+  Dickinson, C. W.                 |Dec. 6, 1859   |26,346
+  Miller, Charles                  |Dec. 13, 1859  |26,462
+  Rowe, Jas.                       |Dec. 27, 1859  |26,638
+  Johnson, A. F.                   |Jan. 24, 1860  |26,948
+  Thomson, J.                      |Feb. 7, 1860   |27,082
+  Juengst, George                  |Feb. 14, 1860  |27,132
+  Davis, Job A.                    |Feb. 21, 1860  |27,208
+  Gibbs, James E. A.               |Feb. 21, 1860  |27,214
+  Rowe, James                      |Feb. 21, 1860  |27,260
+  Dopp, H. W.                      |Feb. 28, 1860  |27,279
+  Paine, A. R.                     |March 6, 1860  |27,412
+  Smalley, J.                      |March 20, 1860 |27,577
+  Newlove, T.                      |April 3, 1860  |27,761
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |May 1, 1860    |28,097
+  Arnold, G. B.                    |May 8, 1860    |28,139
+  Bean, E. E.                      |May 8, 1860    |28,144
+  Holly, Birdsill                  |May 8, 1860    |28,176
+  Chamberlain, J. N.               |May 29, 1860   |28,452
+  Ruddick, H.                      |May 29, 1860   |28,538
+  Scofield, Chas., and             |June 5, 1860   |28,610
+    Rice, Clarke                   |               |
+  Smith, Wilson H.                 |June 19, 1860  |28,785
+  Rose, I. M.                      |June 19, 1860  |28,814
+  Gibbs, J. E. A.                  |June 26, 1860  |28,851
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |July 3, 1860   |28,993
+  Mueller, H.                      |July 3, 1860   |28,996
+  Sutton, Wm. A.                   |July 17, 1860  |29,202
+  Hicks, W. C.                     |July 24, 1860  |29,268
+  Tracy, D.                        |Sept. 11, 1860 |30,012
+  Washburn, T. S.                  |Sept. 11, 1860 |30,031
+  Arnold, G. B., and A.            |Sept. 25, 1860 |30,112
+  Leavitt, Rufus                   |Nov. 13, 1860  |30,634
+  Payne, R. S.                     |Nov. 13, 1860  |30,641
+  Heyer, Frederick                 |Nov. 27, 1860  |30,731
+  Hardie, J. W.                    |Dec. 4, 1860   |30,854
+  Earle, T.                        |Jan. 22, 1861  |31,156
+  Bruen, J. T.                     |Jan. 22, 1861  |31,208
+  Smith, J. M.                     |Feb. 5, 1861   |31,334
+  Smith, L. H.                     |Feb. 12, 1861  |31,411
+  Rice, Quartus                    |Feb. 12, 1861  |31,429
+  Rose, I. M.                      |March 5, 1861  |31,628
+  Ross, Noble G.                   |March 26, 1861 |31,829
+  Boyd, A. H.                      |April 2, 1861  |31,864
+  Mallary, G. H.                   |April 2, 1861  |31,897
+  Shaw, H. L.                      |April 9, 1861  |32,007
+  Burr, Theodore                   |April 9, 1861  |32,023
+  Jones, William, and              |May 14, 1861   |32,297
+    Haughian, P.                   |               |
+  Wilder, M. G.                    |May 14, 1861   |32,323
+  Smith, Lewis H.                  |May 21, 1861   |32,385
+  Stoakes, J. W.                   |May 28, 1861   |32,456
+  Fuller, William M.               |June 4, 1861   |32,496
+  Norton, B. F.                    |July 9, 1861   |32,782
+  Raymond, C.                      |July 9, 1861   |32,785
+  Raymond, Charles                 |July 30, 1861  |32,925
+  Case, G. F.                      |Aug. 13, 1861  |33,029
+  Hodgkins, C.                     |Aug. 20, 1861  |33,085
+  Marble, F. E.                    |Oct. 8, 1861   |33,439
+  Mann, Charles                    |Oct. 22, 1861  |33,556
+  Grover, W. O.                    |Nov. 26, 1861  |33,778
+  Hendrickson, E. M.               |Feb. 4, 1862   |34,330
+  Derocquigny, A. C. F.,           |March 25, 1862 |34,748
+    Gance, D., and Hanzo, L.       |               |
+  Thompson, R.                     |April 8, 1862  |34,926
+  Smith, John C.                   |April 15, 1862 |34,988
+  Palmer, Aaron                    |May 13, 1862   |35,252
+  Hall, W. S.                      |Aug. 5, 1862   |36,084
+  McCurdy, James S.                |Aug. 19, 1862  |36,256
+  Grover, W. O.                    |Sept. 9, 1862  |36,405
+  Wilkins, J. N.                   |Sept. 30, 1862 |36,591
+  Humphrey, D. W. G.               |Oct. 7, 1862   |36,617
+  House, H. A., and J. A.          |Nov. 11, 1862  |36,932
+  Crossby, C. O., and Kellogg, H.  |Dec. 2, 1862   |37,033
+  Shaw, A. B.                      |Dec. 16, 1862  |37,202
+  Pipo, John A.                    |Jan. 27, 1863  |37,550
+  Hollowell, J. G.                 |Feb. 10, 1863  |37,624
+  Howe, A. B.                      |March 17, 1863 |37,913
+  Weitling, W.                     |March 17, 1863 |37,931
+  Shaw & Clark                     |April 21, 1863 |38,246
+  Baldwin, Cyrus W.                |April 28, 1863 |38,276
+  Grote, F. W.                     |May 5, 1863    |38,447
+  Palmer, C. H.                    |May 5, 1863    |38,450
+  Mack, W. A.                      |May 19, 1863   |38,592
+  Bosworth, C. F.                  |June 9, 1863   |38,807
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |June 16, 1863  |38,931
+  Langdon, Leander W.              |July 14, 1863  |39,256
+  House, J. A., and H.A.           |Aug. 4, 1863   |39,442-39,445
+    (4 patents on 1 machine)       |               |
+  Tracy and Hobbs                  |Sept. 15, 1863 |40,000
+  Wagener, Jeptha A.               |Oct. 13, 1863  |40,296
+  Rehfuss, G.                      |Oct. 13, 1863  |40,311
+  Lathrop, Lebbeus W.,             |Oct. 27, 1863  |40,446
+    and de Sanno, Wm. P.           |               |
+  Heyer, W. D.                     |Nov. 17, 1863  |40,622
+  Simmons, A. G., and Scofield, C. |March 1, 1864  |41,790
+  Guinness, W. S.                  |March 15, 1864 |41,916
+  Willcox, Charles H.              |March 22, 1864 |42,036
+    (4 patents on 1 machine)       |Aug. 9, 1864   |43,819
+                                   |Sept. 27, 1864 |44,490
+                                   |Sept. 27, 1864 |44,491
+  Sibley, J. J.                    |March 29, 1864 |42,117
+  Thompson, R.                     |April 19, 1864 |42,449
+  McKay & Blake                    |May 24, 1864   |42,916
+  Chittenden, H. H.                |June 28, 1864  |43,289
+  Hall, Luther                     |July 5, 1864   |43,404
+  Planer, Louis                    |Aug. 23, 1864  |43,927
+  Atwater, B.                      |Sept. 6, 1864  |44,063
+  Dale, John D.                    |Oct. 11, 1864  |44,686
+  Gritzner, M. C.                  |Oct. 18, 1864  |44,720
+  Smith, DeWitt C.                 |Dec. 20, 1864  |45,528
+  Weitling, W.                     |Jan. 3, 1865   |45,777
+  Cadwell, C.                      |Jan. 24, 1865  |45,972
+  Bartlett, J. W.                  |Jan. 31, 1865  |46,064
+  McCurdy, James S.                |Feb. 7, 1865   |46,303
+  Lamb, Thomas, and                |Aug. 15, 1865  |49,421
+    Allen, John                    |               |
+  Humphrey, D. W. G.               |Aug. 29, 1865  |49,627
+  Tarbox, John N.                  |Sept. 5, 1865  |49,803
+  Crosby, C. O.                    |Oct. 3, 1865   |50,225
+  Cajar, E.                        |Oct. 3, 1865   |50,299
+  Hart, William                    |Oct. 17, 1865  |50,469
+  Hecht, A.                        |Oct. 17, 1865  |50,473
+  Emerson, John                    |Nov. 14, 1865  |50,989
+  Keats, John, and Clark, Wm. S.   |Nov. 14, 1865  |50,995
+  Rehfuss, George                  |Nov. 21, 1865  |51,086
+  Eickemeyer, Rudolf               |Feb. 20, 1866  |52,698
+  Hanlon, John                     |Feb. 27, 1866  |52,847
+  McCurdy, J. S.                   |April 3, 1866  |53,743
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |May 15, 1866   |54,670
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |May 15, 1866   |54,671
+  Goodspeed, G. N.                 |May 15, 1866   |54,816
+  Hayes, J.                        |May 22, 1866   |55,029
+  McCloskey, John                  |June 19, 1866  |55,688
+  House, J. A. and H. A.           |June 26, 1866  |55,865
+  Tucker, Joseph C.                |July 24, 1866  |56,641
+  Warth, Albin                     |July 24, 1866  |56,646
+  Destouy, A.                      |July 31, 1866  |56,729
+  Schwalback, M.                   |July 31, 1866  |56,805
+  Cately, William H.               |Aug. 7, 1866   |56,902
+  Piper, D. B.                     |Aug. 7, 1866   |56,990
+  Leyden, Austin                   |Aug. 14, 1866  |57,157
+  Clements, James M.               |Aug. 21, 1866  |57,451
+  Davis, Job A.                    |Oct. 9, 1866   |58,614
+  Rodier, Peter                    |Nov. 13, 1866  |59,659
+  Duchemin, Wm.                    |Nov. 13, 1866  |59,715
+  Kilbourn, E. E.                  |Nov. 20, 1866  |59,746
+  Reed, T. K.                      |Dec. 4, 1866   |60,241
+  Singer, I. M.                    |Dec. 11, 1866  |60,433
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |Jan. 1, 1867   |60,669
+  Rehfuss, G.                      |Jan. 8, 1867   |61,102
+  Singer, Isaac                    |Jan. 15, 1867  |61,270
+  Cajar, Emil                      |Feb. 5, 1867   |61,711
+  Craige, E. H.                    |Feb. 19, 1867  |62,186
+  Reed, T. K.                      |Feb. 19, 1867  |62,287
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |March 5, 1867  |62,520
+  Fuller, H. W.                    |March 19, 1867 |63,033
+  Stannard, M.                     |April 23, 1867 |64,184
+  Craige, E. H.                    |Aug. 13, 1867  |67,635
+  Doll, Arnold                     |Sept. 3, 1867  |68,420
+  Bruen, L. B.                     |Sept. 17, 1867 |68,839
+  Hodgkins, C.                     |Oct. 8, 1867   |69,666
+  Baker, G. W.                     |Oct. 29, 1867  |70,152
+  Cadwell, Caleb                   |Nov. 19, 1867  |71,131
+  Fanning, J.                      |Dec. 31, 1867  |72,829
+  Warth, Albin                     |Jan. 7, 1868   |73,064
+  Rehfuss, George                  |Jan. 7, 1868   |73,119
+  Cornely, E.                      |Jan. 28, 1868  |73,696
+  Blake, L. R.                     |Feb. 11, 1868  |74,289
+  Fales, J. F.                     |Feb. 11, 1868  |74,328
+  Jencks, G. L.                    |Feb. 18, 1868  |74,694
+  Clark, Edwin E.                  |Feb. 25, 1868  |74,751
+  Halbert, A. W.                   |March 31, 1868 |76,076
+  Gritzner, M. C.                  |April 7, 1868  |76,323
+  Bartlett, Joseph W.              |April 7, 1868  |76,385
+  Waterbury, Enos                  |June 16, 1868  |79,037
+  Cole, W. H.                      |June 30, 1868  |79,447
+  Lamson, Henry P.                 |July 7, 1868   |79,579
+  French, S.                       |July 28, 1868  |80,345
+  Stein, M. J.                     |Sept. 8, 1868  |81,956
+  Hancock, H. J.                   |Oct. 27, 1868  |83,492
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |Nov. 3, 1868   |83,592
+  Benedict, C. P.                  |Nov. 3, 1868   |83,596
+  Bonnaz, A.                       |Nov. 10, 1868  |83,909
+  Bonnaz, A.                       |Nov. 10, 1868  |83,910
+  Elliott, F.                      |Jan. 19, 1869  |85,918
+  Canfield, F. P.                  |Jan. 19, 1869  |86,057
+  Arnold B.                        |Jan. 26, 1869  |86,121
+  Jones, John                      |Jan. 26, 1869  |86,163
+  Russell, W. W.                   |Feb. 9, 1869   |86,695
+  Eldridge, G. W.                  |March 2, 1869  |87,331
+  House, J. A. and H. A.           |March 2, 1869  |87,338
+  Gird, E. D.                      |March 9, 1869  |87,559
+  Carpenter, William               |March 9, 1869  |87,633
+  Dunbar, C. F.                    |March 30, 1869 |88,282
+  McLean, J. N.                    |March 30, 1869 |88,499
+  Billings, C. E.                  |April 6, 1869  |88,603
+  Winter, Wm.                      |April 13, 1869 |88,936
+  Tittman, A.                      |April 20, 1869 |89,093
+  Swartwout, H. L.                 |April 27, 1869 |89,357
+  Lyons, Lucius                    |April 27, 1869 |89,489
+  Crosby, C. O.                    |May 25, 1869   |90,507
+  Gutmann, J.                      |May 25, 1869   |90,528
+  Duchemin, William                |June 8, 1869   |91,101
+  Adams, John Q.                   |July 6, 1869   |92,138
+  Bond, Joseph, Jr.                |Aug. 10, 1869  |93,588
+  Hoffman, Geo. W.                 |Aug. 24, 1869  |94,112
+  Brown, John H.                   |Aug. 31, 1869  |94,389
+  Heery, Luke                      |Sept. 14, 1869 |94,740
+  Gray, Joshua                     |Oct. 5, 1869   |95,581
+  Smith, E. H.                     |Oct. 26, 1869  |96,160
+  Page, Chas.                      |Nov. 2, 1869   |96,343
+  Lyon, Lucius                     |Nov. 9, 1869   |96,713
+  Clever, P. J.                    |Nov. 16, 1869  |96,886
+  Mills, Daniel                    |Nov. 16, 1869  |96,944
+  Woodruff, Geo. B., and           |Nov. 16, 1869  |97,014
+    Browning, Geo.                 |               |
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |Dec. 7, 1869   |97,518
+  Hurtu, Auguste J., and           |Dec. 21, 1869  |98,064
+    Hautin, Victor J.              |               |
+  Lamb, Thomas                     |Dec. 28, 1869  |98,390
+  Rudolph, B.                      |Feb. 1, 1870   |99,481
+  Porter, Alonzo                   |Feb. 8, 1870   |99,704
+  Smith, W. T.                     |Feb. 8, 1870   |99,743
+  Meyers, N.                       |Feb. 15, 1870  |99,783
+  Grover, W. O.                    |Feb. 22, 1870  |100,139
+  Spoehr, F.                       |April 12, 1870 |101,779
+  Kendall, George F.               |April 12, 1870 |101,887
+  Cooney, W.                       |April 26, 1870 |102,226
+  Brown, F. H.                     |April 26, 1870 |102,366
+  Howard E., and Jackson, W. H.    |May 31, 1870   |103,745
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |June 14, 1870  |104,247
+  Henriksen, H. P.                 |June 21, 1870  |104,590
+  Martine, Charles F.              |June 21, 1870  |104,612
+  Nasch, Isidor                    |June 21, 1870  |104,630
+  Hall, L.                         |July 12, 1870  |105,329
+  Lyon, Lucius                     |July 26, 1870  |105,820
+  Bennor, Joseph                   |Aug. 9, 1870   |106,249
+  Barnes, M. M.                    |Aug. 16, 1870  |106,307
+  Leslie, Arthur M.                |Oct. 18, 1870  |108,492
+  Rayer, William A.,and            |Nov. 1, 1870   |108,827
+    Lincoln, Wm. S.                |               |
+  Landfear, Wm. R.                 |Nov. 22, 1870  |109,427
+  Parham, Charles                  |Nov. 22, 1870  |109,443
+  Lamb, I. W.                      |Nov. 29, 1870  |109,632
+  Moreau, Eugene                   |Jan. 3, 1871   |110,669
+  Robinson, Charles E.             |Jan. 3, 1871   |110,790
+  Goodyear, Charles, Jr.           |Jan. 24, 1871  |111,197
+  Stevens, G., and Hendy, J.       |Jan. 31, 1871  |111,488
+  Carpenter, Mary P.               |Feb. 21, 1871  |112,016
+  Hancock, Henry J.                |Feb. 21, 1871  |112,033
+  Sidenberg, W.                    |March 14, 1871 |112,745
+  Chase, M.                        |April 11, 1871 |113,498
+  Stein, M. J.                     |April 11, 1871 |113,593
+  Tate, Wm. J.                     |April 11, 1871 |113,704
+  House, J. A. and H. A.           |May 2, 1871    |114,294
+  Sidenberg, W.                    |May 23, 1871   |115,117
+  Beuttels, Charles                |May 23, 1871   |115,155
+  Thompson, G.                     |May 23, 1871   |115,255
+  Willcox and Carleton             |June 27, 1871  |116,521
+    (3 patents on 1 machine)       |               |116,522
+                                   |               |116,523
+  Willcox and Carleton             |July 4, 1871   |116,783
+  Goodyear, Charles, Jr.           |July 11, 1871  |116,947
+  Necker, Carl                     |July 18, 1871  |117,101
+  Pitt, James; Joseph;             |July 18, 1871  |117,203
+    Edward; and Wm.                |               |
+  Jones, John T.                   |Aug. 1, 1871   |117,640
+  West, E. P.                      |Aug. 1, 1871   |117,708
+  Jones, Solomon                   |Aug. 29, 1871  |118,537
+    (2 patents on 1 machine)       |               |118,538
+  Lamb, Thomas                     |Sept. 5, 1871  |118,728
+  Bosworth, C. F.                  |Jan. 9, 1872   |122,555
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |Jan. 9, 1872   |122,673
+  Fish, Warren L.                  |Feb. 13, 1872  |123,625
+  Palmer, C. H.                    |March 19, 1872 |124,694
+  Baker, G. W.                     |April 9, 1872  |125,374
+  Gordon and Kinert                |April 16, 1872 |125,807
+  Howard, C. W.                    |April 23, 1872 |126,056
+    (second machine)               |               |126,057
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |May 14, 1872   |126,845
+  Beckwith, W. G.                  |May 21, 1872   |126,921
+  Bouscay, Eloi, Jr.               |May 28, 1872   |127,145
+  Braundbeck, E.                   |June 11, 1872  |127,675
+  Heidenthal, W.                   |June 11, 1872  |127,765
+  Cleminshaw, S.                   |June 25, 1872  |128,363
+  Wardwell, S. W., Jr.             |July 2, 1872   |128,684
+  Springer, W. A.                  |July 9, 1872   |128,919
+  Fanning, John                    |July 16, 1872  |129,013
+  Parks, Volney                    |July 30, 1872  |129,981
+  Baker, G. W.                     |July 30, 1872  |130,005
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |Aug. 6, 1872   |130,324
+  McClure, A. T.                   |Aug. 13, 1872  |130,385
+  Ashe, Robert                     |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,555
+  Bartram, W. B.                   |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,557
+  West, Elliot P.                  |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,674
+  Happe, J., and Newman, W.        |Aug. 20, 1872  |130,715
+  Hinds, Jesse L.                  |Sept. 10, 1872 |131,166
+  Brown, F. H.                     |Oct. 1, 1872   |131,735
+  Beckwith, W. G.                  |Nov. 26, 1872  |133,351
+  Turner, S. S.                    |Dec. 3, 1872   |133,553
+  Chandler, R.                     |Dec. 10, 1872  |133,757
+  Venner, O.                       |Dec. 10, 1872  |133,814
+  Duchemin, W.                     |Jan. 21, 1873  |135,032
+  Sheffield, G. V.                 |Jan. 21, 1873  |135,047
+  Parham, Charles                  |Feb. 4, 1873   |135,579
+  Goodes, E. A.                    |March 11, 1873 |136,718
+  Tittman, A.                      |March 11, 1873 |136,792
+  Happe, J., and Newman, W.        |March 25, 1873 |137,199
+  Ragan, Daniel                    |April 1, 1873  |137,321
+  O'Neil, John                     |April 8, 1873  |137,618
+  Kallmeyer, G.                    |April 8, 1873  |137,689
+  Ross, J. G., and Miller, T. L.   |May 13, 1873   |138,764
+  West, Elliott P.                 |May 13, 1873   |138,772
+  Koch and Brass                   |May 13, 1873   |138,898
+  Arnold, B.                       |May 20, 1873   |138,981
+  Arnold, B.                       |May 20, 1873   |138,982
+  Lathrop, L. W.                   |May 20, 1873   |139,067
+  Chandler, Rufus                  |May 27, 1873   |139,368
+  Jones, S. H.                     |July 8, 1873   |140,631
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |July 22, 1873  |141,088
+  Wardwell, S. W., Jr.             |July 29, 1873  |141,245
+  Stewart, J., Jr.                 |July 29, 1873  |141,397
+  Walker, William                  |July 29, 1873  |141,407
+  Blanchard, Helen A.              |Aug. 19, 1873  |141,987
+  Springer, W. A.                  |Aug. 26, 1873  |142,290
+  Cushman, C. S.                   |Sept. 2, 1873  |142,442
+  Porter, D. A.                    |Nov. 25, 1873  |144,864
+  Koch & Brass                     |Dec. 2, 1873   |145,215
+  Richardson, E. F.                |Dec. 16, 1873  |145,687
+  Weber, Theo. A.                  |Dec. 23, 1873  |145,823
+  Scribner, Benjamin, Jr.          |Jan. 13, 1874  |146,483
+  Black, Samuel S.                 |Jan. 20, 1874  |146,642
+  Taylor, F. B.                    |Jan. 20, 1874  |146,721
+  Richardson, Everett P.           |Jan. 27, 1874  |146,948
+  Muir, William                    |Feb. 3, 1874   |147,152
+  Goodes, E. A.                    |Feb. 10, 1874  |147,387
+  Springer, Wm. A.                 |Feb. 10, 1874  |147,441
+  True, C. B.                      |March 10, 1874 |148,336
+  Wardwell, S. W., Jr.             |March 10, 1874 |148,339
+  Shorey, Samuel W.                |March 17, 1874 |148,765
+  Smith, James H.                  |March 24, 1874 |148,902
+  Horr, Addison D.                 |April 21, 1874 |149,862
+  Page, Chas.                      |May 5, 1874    |150,479
+  Crane, Thomas                    |May 5, 1874    |150,532
+  Buhr, J.                         |May 26, 1874   |151,272
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |June 9, 1874   |151,801
+  Wensley, James                   |June 16, 1874  |152,055
+  Dinsmore, A. S., and             |June 30, 1874  |152,618
+    Carter, John T.                |               |
+  Speirs, J.                       |July 7, 1874   |152,813
+  Brewer, A. G.                    |July 14, 1874  |152,894
+  Baglin, Wm.                      |Aug. 18, 1874  |154,113
+  Howard, E. L.                    |Aug. 25, 1874  |154,485
+  Landfear, Wm. R.                 |Sept. 22, 1874 |155,193
+  Drake, Ellis                     |Oct. 13, 1874  |155,932
+  Barney, Samuel C.                |Oct. 20, 1874  |156,119
+  Moreau, Eugene                   |Oct. 20, 1874  |156,171
+  Huntington, Thomas S.            |Dec. 29, 1874  |158,214
+  Bartlett and Plant               |Jan. 26, 1875  |159,065
+  Garland, H. P.                   |Feb. 16, 1875  |159,812
+  Dinsmore, Alfred S.              |March 9, 1875  |160,512
+  McCloskey, John                  |March 30, 1875 |161,534
+  Schmidt, Albert E.               |April 27, 1875 |162,697
+  Darling & Darling                |May 25, 1875   |163,639
+  Richardson, Everett P.           |July 13, 1875  |165,506
+  Whitehill, Robert                |July 27, 1875  |166,172
+  Weber, Theodore A.               |Aug. 3, 1875   |166,236
+  Pearson, Wm.                     |Aug. 17, 1875  |166,805
+  Beckwith, William G.             |Sept. 7, 1875  |167,382
+  Hall, John S.                    |Oct. 11, 1875  |168,637
+  Jones, J. T.                     |Oct. 26, 1875  |169,106
+  Garland, H. P.                   |Oct. 26, 1875  |169,163
+  Wormald & Dobson                 |Nov. 9, 1875   |169,881
+  Rose, R. M.                      |Nov. 30, 1875  |170,596
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |Dec. 7, 1875   |170,741
+  Keith, T. K.                     |Dec. 14, 1875  |170,955
+  Leavitte, Albert                 |Dec. 14, 1875  |171,147
+  Toll, Charles F.                 |Dec. 14, 1875  |171,193
+  Keats, Greenwood, & Keats        |Dec. 28, 1875  |171,622
+  Thayer, Augustus                 |Jan. 11, 1876  |172,205
+  Frese, B.                        |Jan. 18, 1876  |172,308
+  Pearson, William                 |Jan. 18, 1876  |172,478
+  Sawyer & Esty                    |Feb. 29, 1876  |174,159
+  Porter & Baker                   |March 14, 1876 |174,703
+  Walker, William                  |April 11, 1876 |176,101
+  Upson, L. A.                     |April 18, 1876 |176,153
+  Witherspoon, S. A.               |April 18, 1876 |176,211
+  Rice, T. M.                      |April 25, 1876 |176,686
+  Murphy, E.                       |May 2, 1876    |176,880
+  Bradford, E. F., and             |May 16, 1876   |177,371
+    Pierce, V. R.                  |               |
+  Applegate & Webb                 |May 25, 1876   |177,784
+  Sullivan, John J.                |June 27, 1876  |179,232
+  Appleton, C. J., and             |July 4, 1876   |179,440
+    Sibley, J. J.                  |               |
+  Marin, Chas.                     |July 11, 1876  |179,709
+  Gullransen, P. E., and           |July 25, 1876  |180,225
+    Rettinger, J. C.               |               |
+  Butcher, Joseph                  |Aug. 1, 1876   |180,542
+  Jackson, William                 |Sept. 5, 1876  |181,941
+  Barton, Kate C.                  |Sept. 12, 1876 |182,096
+  Eickemeyer, Rudolf               |Sept. 12, 1876 |182,182
+  Webster, W.                      |Sept. 12, 1876 |182,249
+  Knoch, C. F.                     |Oct. 17, 1876  |183,400
+  Cushman, C. S.                   |Nov. 21, 1876  |184,594
+  Harris, David                    |Dec. 12, 1876  |185,228
+  Wood, J.                         |Dec. 26, 1876  |185,811
+  Oram, Henry                      |Jan. 2, 1877   |185,952
+  Palmer, Frank L.                 |Jan. 2, 1877   |185,954
+  Hall, John S.                    |Feb. 6, 1877   |187,006
+  Palmateer, William A.            |Feb. 20, 1877  |187,479
+  Cummins, William G.              |Feb. 27, 1877  |187,822
+  Esty, William                    |Feb. 27, 1877  |187,837
+  Leavitt & Drew                   |Feb. 27, 1877  |187,874
+  Henriksen, H. P.                 |March 20, 1877 |188,515
+  McKay, Gordon                    |March 27, 1877 |188,809
+  Follett, J. L.                   |April 10, 1877 |189,446
+  Bond, James, Jr.                 |April 17, 1877 |189,599
+  Jacob, F.                        |April 24, 1877 |190,047
+  Beck, A.                         |May 1, 1877    |190,184
+  Hallett, H. H.                   |June 5, 1877   |191,584
+  Randel, William                  |June 12, 1877  |192,008
+  Corbett, E., and Harlow, C. F.   |July 3, 1877   |192,568
+  Brown, F. H.                     |July 24, 1877  |193,477
+  Melhuish, R. M.                  |Aug. 28, 1877  |194,610
+  Atwood, K. C.                    |Sept. 4, 1877  |194,759
+  Macaulay, F. A.                  |Oct. 9, 1877   |195,939
+  Dimond, George H.                |Oct. 16, 1877  |196,198
+  Sedmihradsky, A. J.              |Oct. 23, 1877  |196,486
+  Keith, J.                        |Nov. 6, 1877   |196,809
+  Beck, August                     |Nov. 6, 1877   |196,863
+  Keith, T. H.                     |Nov. 6, 1877   |196,909
+  Keats, John                      |Dec. 11, 1877  |198,120
+  Briggs, Thomas                   |Jan. 1, 1878   |198,790
+  Corey, J. W.                     |Jan. 8, 1878   |198,970
+  Howard, T. S. L.                 |Jan. 15, 1878  |199,206
+  Bosworth, C. F.                  |Jan. 22, 1878  |199,500
+  Dancel, C.                       |Jan. 29, 1878  |199,802
+  Pearson, M. H.                   |Feb. 5, 1878   |199,991
+  Morrell, Robert W.;              |April 23, 1878 |202,857
+    Parkinson, Thomas; and         |               |
+    Parkinson, Joseph              |               |
+  Barcellos, D.                    |April 30, 1878 |203,102
+  Elderfield, F. D.                |June 4, 1878   |204,429
+  Heberling, J.                    |June 4, 1878   |204,604
+  Beukler, William                 |June 11, 1878  |204,704
+  Varicas, L.                      |June 11, 1878  |204,864
+  Stewart, W. T.                   |July 2, 1878   |205,698
+  House, Jas. A.                   |July 23, 1878  |206,239
+  Martin, W., Jr.; Dawson,  D. R.; |Aug. 6, 1878   |206,743
+    and Orchar, R.                 |               |
+  Conklin, N. A.                   |Aug. 6, 1878   |206,774
+  Wollenberg, H., and Priesner, J. |Aug. 6, 1878   |206,848
+  Young, E. S., and Dimond, G. H.  |Aug. 13, 1878  |206,992
+  Hoffman, Clara P., and           |Aug. 13, 1878  |207,035
+    Meyers, Nicholas               |               |
+  Wensley, Jas.                    |Aug. 20, 1878  |207,230
+  Dimond, G. H.                    |Aug. 27, 1878  |207,400
+  Steward, A.                      |Aug. 27, 1878  |207,454
+  Wood, Richard G.                 |Sept. 10, 1878 |207,928
+  McCombs, Geo. F.                 |Sept. 24, 1878 |208,407
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |Oct. 22, 1878  |209,126
+  Wells, W. W.                     |Nov. 12, 1878  |209,843
+  Bayley, C. H.                    |Feb. 11, 1879  |212,122
+  Parmenter, Charles O.            |Feb. 18, 1879  |212,495
+  Ingalls, N., Jr.                 |Feb. 25, 1879  |212,602
+  Cleminshaw, S.                   |March 18, 1879 |213,391
+  Webb, T., and Heartfield, C. H.  |March 25, 1879 |213,537
+  Borton, Stockton                 |April 8, 1879  |214,089
+  Henriksen, H. P.                 |May 20, 1879   |215,615
+  Bland, Henry                     |June 3, 1879   |216,016
+  Morrison, T. W.                  |June 10, 1879  |216,289
+  Bosworth, Charles F.             |June 17, 1879  |216,504
+  Simmons, Frederick               |June 24, 1879  |216,902
+  Junker, Carl                     |July 1, 1879   |217,112
+  Legat, Desire Mathurin           |Aug. 12, 1879  |218,388
+  Willcox, C. H.                   |Aug. 12, 1879  |218,413
+  Cornely, Emile                   |Sept. 2, 1879  |219,225
+  Hamm, E.                         |Sept. 16, 1879 |219,578
+  Tuttle, J. W., and Keith, T. K.  |Sept. 16, 1879 |219,782
+  Stackpole, G., and               |Oct. 7, 1879   |220,314
+    Applegate, J. H.               |               |
+  Otis, S. L.                      |Oct. 28, 1879  |221,093
+  Bland, H.                        |Nov. 11, 1879  |221,505
+  Bracher, T. W.                   |Nov. 11,1879   |221,508
+  Snediker, J. F.                  |Nov. 25, 1879  |222,089
+  Mooney, J. H.                    |Dec. 2, 1879   |222,298
+  Osborne, J. H.                   |Feb. 3, 1880   |224,219
+  Smith, W. M.                     |March 2, 1880  |225,199
+  Banks, C. M.                     |March 23, 1880 |225,784
+  Haberling, J.                    |May 4, 1880    |227,249
+  Haberling, J.                    |May 11, 1880   |227,525
+  Wiseman, Edmund                  |June 8, 1880   |228,711
+  Juengst, George                  |June 15, 1880  |228,820
+  Morley, J. H.                    |June 15, 1880  |228,918
+  Curtis, G. H. W.                 |June 22, 1880  |228,985
+  Lipe, C. E.                      |June 29, 1880  |229,322
+  Miller, L. B., and Diehl, P.     |July 6, 1880   |229,629
+  Willcox, C. H.                   |July 20, 1880  |230,212
+  Shaw, E.                         |July 27, 1880  |230,580
+  Dinsmore, A. S.                  |Aug. 17, 1880  |231,155
+  Thurston, C. H.                  |Oct. 12, 1880  |231,300
+  Butcher, J.                      |Oct. 26, 1880  |233,657
+  Smyth, D. M.                     |Nov. 23, 1880  |234,732
+  Hesse, J.                        |Dec. 7, 1880   |235,085
+  Kjalman, H. N.                   |Dec. 21, 1880  |235,783
+  Morley, J. H.                    |Jan. 4, 1881   |236,350
+  Thomas, J.                       |Jan. 11, 1881  |236,466
+  Benson, G.                       |March 8, 1881  |238,556
+  Green, G. F.                     |March 8, 1881  |238,678
+  Eickemeyer, Rudolf               |March 29, 1881 |239,319
+  Palmer, C. H.                    |April 26, 1881 |240,758
+  Campbell, D. H.                  |May 17, 1881   |241,612
+  Campbell, Duncan H.              |May 17, 1881   |241,613
+  Leslie, A. M.                    |May 24, 1881   |241,808
+  Newell, George F.                |June 7, 1881   |242,470
+  Gritzner, Max C.                 |June 28, 1881  |243,444
+  Keith, Jeremiah                  |July 5, 1881   |243,710
+  Choquette, A. E.                 |July 12, 1881  |244,033
+  Mooney, J. H.                    |July 19, 1881  |244,470
+  Beardslee, W. F.                 |Aug. 16, 1881  |245,781
+  Hine, Charlie M.                 |Aug. 23, 1881  |246,136
+  Willcox, C. H.                   |Sept. 6, 1881  |246,700
+  Hoefler, J.                      |Sept. 13, 1881 |246,883
+  Woodward, E.                     |Sept. 20, 1881 |247,285
+  Richards, Jean E.                |Jan. 24, 1882  |252,799
+  Abbott, W. W.                    |Jan. 31, 1882  |252,984
+  Secor, J. B.                     |Feb. 14, 1882  |253,772
+  Deschamps, O. L.                 |Feb. 21, 1882  |253,915
+  Hull, E. H.                      |Feb. 28, 1882  |254,217
+  Roberts, William                 |March 7, 1882  |254,696
+  Willcox and Borton               |March 28, 1882 |255,576
+  Borton and Willcox               |March 28, 1882 |255,577
+  Borton and Willcox               |March 28, 1882 |255,580
+  Borton and Willcox               |March 28, 1882 |255,581
+  Veukler, W.                      |April 4, 1882  |255,916
+  Hurtu, A. J.                     |May 30, 1882   |258,761
+  Keats, Alphonso                  |July 11, 1882  |260,990
+  Ramsden, John W.                 |Aug. 1, 1882   |262,116
+  Koch, William                    |Aug. 8, 1882   |262,298
+  Bigelow, J.                      |Aug. 29, 1882  |263,467
+  Mills, Daniel                    |Oct. 10, 1882  |265,850
+  Wilkinson, Charles E.            |Dec. 19, 1882  |269,251
+  Carlisle, W. S.                  |Jan. 9, 1883   |270,540
+  Holden, O. J., and Griswold, L.  |Feb. 13, 1883  |272,050
+  Cameron, James W.                |Feb. 20, 1883  |272,527
+  Miller, L. B., and Diehl, P.     |March 20, 1883 |274,359
+  Ludeke, W.                       |April 10, 1883 |275,506
+  Bolton, J., and Petnz, A. D.     |May 8, 1883    |277,106
+  Blodgett, John W.                |June 12, 1883  |279,320
+  Haberling, J.                    |Sept. 4, 1883  |284,300
+  Thimonnier, E., and Vernaz, C.   |Oct. 30, 1883  |287,592
+  Duchemin, William                |Nov. 20, 1883  |288,929
+  Lawrence, G. H.                  |Dec. 25, 1883  |290,895
+  Clever, Peter J.                 |April 8, 1884  |296,529
+  Palmer, John H.                  |May 6, 1884    |298,228
+  Dowling, James, and              |May 27, 1884   |299,118
+  Connolly, John                   |               |
+  Boecher, Adam                    |June 10, 1884  |300,199
+  Luedeke, Waldemar                |June 17, 1884  |300,380
+  VanVechten, Orville R.           |July 15, 1884  |302,063
+  Carr, Wm. H., and Ostrom, F. W.  |Aug. 12, 1884  |303,361
+  Trip, J.                         |Dec. 2, 1884   |308,711
+  Farrar, Arthur                   |Dec. 30, 1884  |309,837
+  Turner, M. G.                    |Feb. 17, 1885  |312,306
+  Mills, D.                        |March 3, 1885  |313,359
+  Hurtu, August J.                 |April 7, 1885  |315,037
+  Charmbury, Henry                 |April 28, 1885 |316,745
+  Woodward & Keith                 |April 28, 1885 |316,927
+  Walker, William                  |June 16, 1885  |320,099
+  Tucker, R. D.                    |June 23, 1885  |320,898
+  Wheeler and Dial                 |Oct. 13, 1885  |328,165
+  Thomas, Joseph                   |Nov. 10, 1885  |330,170
+  Muegge, C. A.                    |Dec. 8, 1885   |332,207
+  Diehl, P.                        |April 13, 1886 |339,623
+  Diehl, P.                        |Aug. 24, 1886  |347,776
+  Helwig, Arthur                   |Oct. 5, 1886   |350,364
+  Miehling, Charles                |Nov. 2, 1886   |351,992
+  Dieterle, H. E.                  |Nov. 30, 1886  |353,542
+  Walker, William                  |Dec. 7, 1886   |353,720
+  Rosenthal, S. A.                 |Dec. 7, 1886   |353,970
+  Temple, John                     |Feb. 22, 1887  |358,088
+  Gee, W. V.                       |April 19, 1887 |361,406
+  Lingley, John W.                 |Aug. 16, 1887  |368,538
+  Boppel, Jacob                    |Jan. 29, 1889  |396,979
+  Webster, William                 |April 30, 1889 |402,497
+  Osterhout and Hallenbeck         |May 7, 1889    |402,610
+  Bennett and Dowling              |Aug. 27, 1889  |409,728
+  Hine, Charles M.                 |Jan. 28, 1890  |420,382
+  Wheeler, Nathaniel               |Feb. 4, 1890   |420,847
+  Hallenbeck, J. P.                |April 8, 1890  |425,422
+  Lisle, Myron C.                  |May 20, 1890   |428,171
+  Walker and Bennet                |May 20, 1890   |428,548
+  Stewart, James, Jr.              |July 15, 1890  |432,449
+  Dewees, J. W.                    |July 22, 1890  |432,746
+  Powell, Thomas                   |Dec. 16, 1890  |442,695
+  Fletcher, James H.               |Dec. 30, 1890  |443,756
+  Rudolph, Ernst B., deceased,     |April 7, 1891  |449,927
+    Boulter, W. E., administrator  |               |
+  Goodwin, Julius C.               |April 21, 1891 |450,793
+  Cook, Hugo                       |June 23, 1891  |454,610
+  Bowyer, J. T.                    |June 23, 1891  |454,708
+  Willcox, C. H., and Borton, S.   |April 5, 1892  |472,094
+  Legg and Weston                  |May 17, 1892   |474,840
+  Kern, Ferdinand                  |July 19, 1892  |479,369
+  Jackson, Francis                 |May 1, 1894    |519,064
+  Charles Abercrombi               |June 5, 1892   |520,977
+  Taft, J. C.                      |Oct. 15, 1895  |547,866
+
+
+
+
+IV. 19th-Century Sewing-Machine Leaflets in the Smithsonian Collections
+
+  _Machine or Manufacturer_            |_Date_        |_Type_
+                                       |              |
+  American B.H.O. and Sewing Machine   |1874          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Buckeye sewing machine               |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, directions for using
+                                       |              |  the machine
+  New Buckeye                          |ca. 1872      |Illustrated, directions for using
+                                       |              |  the machine
+  Centennial sewing machine            |1876          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Domestic sewing machine              |1872          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Florence sewing machine              |1873          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Florence sewing machine              |1878          |Illustrated, directions for using
+                                       |              |  the machine
+  Goodes sewing machine                |ca. 1876      |Advertising leaflet
+  Grant Brothers sewing machine        |1867          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+                                       |              |  (Xerox copy)
+  Grover and Baker sewing machine      |1853          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Grover and Baker sewing machine      |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Home sewing machine                  |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Howe sewing machine, new "B" machine |1868          |Illustrated, instruction booklet
+  Howe sewing machine                  |1876          |Illustrated, catalog of machines
+  Independent Noiseless sewing machine |ca. 1874      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Ladd, Webster sewing machine         |1861          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Little Monitor sewing machine        |ca. 1872      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Remington Family sewing machine      |ca. 1874      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Shaw and Clark sewing machine        |1864          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Singer sewing machine                |1871          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Singer sewing machine                |1893          |Catalog of machines shown at the
+                                       |              |  Columbian Exposition
+  Standard Shuttle sewing machine      |ca. 1875      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Ten Dollar Novelty sewing machine    |ca. 1870      |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Weed sewing machine                  |1873          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine    |ca. 1869      |Illustrated, instruction booklet
+  Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine    |ca. 1870-1875 |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+  Wheeler and Wilson no. 8 machine     |ca. 1878      |Illustrated, instruction booklet
+  Wilson sewing machine                |1872          |Illustrated, advertising leaflet
+
+
+
+
+V. A Brief History of Cotton Thread
+
+
+Although Samuel Slater's wife is credited with making the first cotton
+sewing thread from yarns spun at the Pawtucket, Rhode Island, mill in
+about 1794, cotton thread did not become a manufactured item at that
+time. Slater turned all his interests to producing cotton-twist yarns
+needed for the warps of cotton fabrics. By 1809, however, the agents of
+Almy and Brown, partners and distributors for Slater, were advertising
+cotton thread as follows:
+
+     Factory Cotton and Thread Store, No. 26 Court Street opposite
+     Concert Hall. George Connell, Agent for Almy and Brown of
+     Providence and Pawtucket Manufactories, has now for sale from eight
+     to ten thousand weight of yarn, for weaving ... five hundred pounds
+     cotton thread, in hanks, from No. 12 to 60 of a superior quality
+     and very white.[91]
+
+Although it was a short hop from the spinning of cotton warps to the
+twisting of these cotton yarns to form a sewing thread, the general
+manufacture of cotton thread as an industry did not originate in the
+United States but rather in Scotland in the early 19th century.
+Napoleon's blockade, which curtailed Great Britain's importation of
+silk--needed not only for fabrics but also for making heddle strings for
+the looms--stimulated the production of cotton thread there. James and
+Patrick Clark, in desperation, attempted to substitute cotton for silk
+in their manufacture of these heddle strings. When they were successful,
+they considered that if cotton could be used successfully for this
+purpose it could also be made suitable for sewing thread. In 1812 they
+built a factory in Paisley, Scotland, which had long been noted for its
+textile industries. The thread was sold in hanks. About 1820 James'
+sons, James and John, who were now running J. & J. Clark & Co., began to
+wind the thread on spools. For this service they charged an extra
+halfpenny, which was refunded when the empty spool was returned. The
+thread was usually a three-ply or so-called three-cord thread.
+
+About 1815 James Coats, also of Paisley, started manufacturing thread at
+Ferguslie, Scotland. His two sons took over the company in 1826 and
+formed the J. & P. Coats Company. Another brother, Andrew Coats, became
+the selling agent in the United States about 1840. But the cotton-thread
+industry was not fully launched.
+
+As reported in an 1853 _Scientific American_, there was "more American
+thread made ten years ago than there is today."[92] It was not until the
+six-cord cabled cotton thread, which was suitable for both machine and
+hand sewing, was perfected that the industry progressed into full
+operation.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[91] William R. Bagnall, _Textile Industries of the United States_
+(Cambridge, Mass., 1893), vol. 1, p. 164.
+
+
+
+VI. Biographical Sketches
+
+
+BARTHELEMY THIMONNIER
+
+The first man known to have put a sewing machine into practical
+operation, Barthelemy Thimonnier, was a Frenchman of obscure parentage.
+His father, a textile dyer of Lyon, left that city in 1793 as a result
+of the Revolution and journeyed with his family to l'Arbresle where
+Barthelemy was born in August of that year.
+
+The family resources were small, and, although the young Thimonnier was
+able to begin studies at the Seminaire de Saint-Jean at Lyons, he soon
+was forced to leave school for financial reasons and return to his home,
+then at Amplepuis. There he learned the tailoring trade and by 1813 was
+fairly well established in his own shop.
+
+At that time many of the town's inhabitants were weavers and almost
+every house possessed one or two looms. The noise of the shuttle echoed
+from these family workshops. Thimonnier noted the relatively small
+amount of time needed to weave a fabric compared with the slow
+painstaking task of sewing a garment by passing the needle in and out
+for each stitch of each seam. When his mind began to dwell on the idea
+of producing a machine to do this stitching, another of the town's
+occupations supplied him with a clue and an additional incentive. This
+village industry produced a type of embroidery work called _point de
+chainette_, in which a needle with a small hook was used to form the
+chainstitch, a popular type of decorative stitch long used in countries
+all over the world. It was Thimonnier's plan to use this type of hooked
+needle and produce the stitch by machine, employing it both as a
+decorative stitch and a seam-forming one.
+
+In 1825 Thimonnier moved to St. Etienne, where he became completely
+absorbed in the idea of inventing a sewing machine. Ignorant of any of
+the principles of mechanics, he worked alone and in secret for four
+years, neglecting his tailoring business to the extent that neighbors
+looked upon him as peculiar, if not crazy. By 1829 he had not only
+mastered the mechanical difficulties of bringing his dream to
+realization, but also had made the acquaintance of the man who helped
+him to success. Ferrand, of l'Ecole des Mines of Saint-Etienne, became
+interested in the machine and helped finance Thimonnier through his
+trials and disappointments. In 1830 Thimonnier received a patent on his
+machine, which produced the chainstitch by means of a needle shaped like
+a small crochet hook.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 133.--BARTHELEMY THIMONNIER, 1793-1857. From an
+engraving in the _Sewing Machine Advance_, November 15, 1880.
+(Smithsonian photo 10569-A.)]
+
+Thimonnier, together with Ferrand and a M. Beaunier, made attempts to
+introduce his machine in Paris. By 1841 they were successful in having
+eighty of Thimonnier's machines in use sewing army clothing in a shop in
+Paris. But the fears of the tailors could not be quieted. The machines
+were destroyed by an ignorant and infuriated mob, as had been earlier
+labor-saving devices such as the Jacquard attachment for the loom and
+Hargreaves' spinning jenny. Thimonnier was forced to flee to his home in
+St. Etienne, once more penniless.
+
+Soon after this, Jean Marie Magnin, an engineer from
+Villefranche-sur-Saone became interested in Thimonnier's machine and
+provided the inventor again with financial backing. In 1845 under the
+name of Thimonnier and Magnin the patent of 1830 was renewed, and under
+it they organized the first French sewing-machine company. The machines
+they manufactured could produce 200 stitches per minute.
+
+The Revolution of 1848 curtailed the manufacture and sale of the
+machines. Thimonnier, remembering his unpleasant experience in 1841,
+decided to go to England with Magnin, where, on February 8, 1848, they
+received the English patent for his chainstitch machine. He was also
+granted United States patent 7,622 on September 20, 1850. This later
+machine had some advantages over his French machine of 1830, but by this
+time other inventors had joined the field with machines that were more
+practical. Magnin entered a sewing machine (which from the description
+in the catalog must have been Thimonnier's invention) in the Crystal
+Palace Exhibition in London in 1850, but because it was late in arriving
+it was overlooked by the judges and not even considered in the
+competition. Thimonnier died in poverty at Amplepuis on July 5, 1857.
+
+
+WALTER HUNT
+
+Walter Hunt was born near Martinsburg, New York, on July 29, 1796.
+Although little is known of Hunt's early childhood, we do learn from the
+author of his obituary, which appeared in _Scientific American_, July 9,
+1860, that even as a child he was more interested in people and what he
+could do for them than in what he could do to insure his own welfare. He
+is said to have devoted his life to his friends, frequently giving away
+his last cent when he did not have enough to provide for himself.
+
+There is no record that Hunt maintained a regular business other than
+the occupation of inventor. His interests were numerous and varied. He
+received his first patent on June 26, 1826, for a machine for spinning
+flax and hemp. During the next 33 years he patented 26 ideas. In
+addition he sold or dropped several more. His second patent was for a
+coach alarm, and through the years he also received patents for a
+variety of things including a knife sharpener, heating stove, ice boat,
+nail machine, inkwell, fountain pen, safety pin, bottle stopper, sewing
+machine (1854), paper collars, and a reversible metallic heel.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 134.--WALTER HUNT, 1796-1860. From a daguerreotype
+owned by his great-grandson, C. N. Hunt. (Smithsonian photo 32066-A.)]
+
+
+ELIAS HOWE, JR.
+
+Elias Howe, Jr., was born on his father's farm in Spencer,
+Massachusetts, on July 9, 1819. This was one of those barren New England
+farms with many rock-filled acres. All possible ingenuity was necessary
+to secure a living. The elder Howe supplemented his farming by having a
+small gristmill, a sawmill, and also by manufacturing cards for the
+fast-growing cotton industry of New England. Elias Jr.'s earliest
+recollections were of the latter. He worked with his brothers and
+sisters sticking wire teeth into strips of leather to make these cotton
+cards, but, not being very good at this, his family decided to let him
+"live out" with a neighboring farmer. (Children were leased in those
+days; they received their board and keep in exchange for chores they
+would perform.) After a few years, Elias returned home and worked in his
+father's mill until he was sixteen. Then, against the wishes of his
+family, he went to Lowell, Massachusetts. Here, he obtained a learner's
+place in a machine shop where cotton-spinning machinery was made and
+repaired.
+
+In 1837, when a financial panic hit the country, Howe lost his job. He
+then decided to go to Boston, and this marked a turning point in his
+career. In Boston he met Ari Davis, a maker of mariners' instruments and
+scientific apparatus. Howe began to work in Davis' shop, a place to
+which inventors often came to ask advice about their ideas. Davis
+sometimes helped them, but just as often he shouted at them in anger--he
+is said to have been one of the noisiest men in Boston. One day Howe
+overheard his employer bellowing at a man who had brought a knitting
+machine to the shop to seek Davis' advice. "Why are you wasting your
+time over a knitting machine?" said Davis, "Take my advice, try
+something that will pay. Make a sewing machine." "It can't be done," was
+the reply. "Can't be done?" shouted Davis, "Don't tell me that. Why--I
+can make a sewing machine myself." "If you do," interrupted the
+capitalist, "I can make an independent fortune for you." Davis, like
+most men of many words, often talked of more than he planned to do. He
+never attempted to invent a sewing machine.
+
+But the loud voices interested Howe, who, it is said, determined then
+that he would produce a sewing machine and win the fortune that the
+prosperous-looking man had asserted was waiting for such a deed. A kind
+of lameness since birth had made physical tasks painful for Howe, and he
+perhaps felt that this would offer an opportunity to become independent
+of hard physical work.
+
+After marrying on a journeyman machinist's pay of $9 a week, Howe's
+health worsened and by 1843 was so bad that he had to stop work for days
+at a time. His wife was forced to take in sewing to maintain the family.
+It was the sight of his wife toiling at her stitches together with the
+pressure of poverty that recalled to Howe his earlier interest in a
+machine to sew. He decided to make an earnest attempt to invent one.
+Watching his wife for hours at a time, he tried to visualize a machine
+that would duplicate the motions of the arm. After many trials, he
+conceived the idea of using an eye-pointed needle in combination with a
+shuttle to form a stitch. It is possible that, as some authors state,
+the solution appeared to him in a dream, a manifestation of the
+subconscious at work. Others have suggested that he may have learned of
+Hunt's machine. There is a general similarity in the two, not only in
+the combination of eye-pointed needle and shuttle but in the overhanging
+arm and vertical cloth suspension.
+
+After conceiving the idea, whatever his inspiration, Howe determined to
+devote all of his time to producing a working model of his machine.
+Elias' father, who had then started a factory for splitting palm leaves
+in Cambridge, gave him permission to set up a lathe and a few tools in
+the garret of the factory. Elias moved his family to Cambridge. Soon
+after his arrival, unfortunately, the building burned down, and Howe
+despaired of finding a place to work. He had a friend, however, in
+George Fisher, who had just come into a small inheritance, and Howe
+persuaded him to enter into partnership with him for the development of
+the machine. Fisher agreed to board Howe and his family, which now
+included two children, while Howe completed the model. Fisher also
+agreed to supply $500 for material and tools in exchange for a half
+interest in a patent if one was obtained.
+
+[Illustration: Figure 135.--ELIAS HOWE, JR., 1819-1867. From an oil
+painting in the Smithsonian Institution presented by the inventor's
+grandson, Elias Howe Stockwell. (Smithsonian photo 622.)]
+
+At long last Howe was able to spend his full time and concentration on
+building his machine. His family was being fed and had a roof over its
+head. Within a few months Howe had completed a model and by April 1845
+had sewed his first seam (see fig. 14). In July of that year he sewed
+all the principal seams of two suits of wool clothes, one for George
+Fisher and one for himself.
+
+Several efforts were made to solicit public interest in the new machine.
+One was installed in a public hall in Boston, and a tailor was employed
+to operate it at three times the regular wage. The reception was similar
+to that of Thimonnier's: crowds came to see the "contraption," but, when
+Howe tried to interest large clothing establishments in using the
+machine, the protests of the tailors effectively blocked him. He took
+his sewing machine to the Quincy Hall Clothing Manufactory and offered
+to sew up any seams brought to him. Daily he sat in one of the rooms
+demonstrating his machine, and finally he challenged five of the
+swiftest seamstresses there to a race. Ten seams of equal length were
+prepared for stitching. One was given to each of the girls while the
+remaining five were given to Howe. Howe finished his five a little
+sooner than the girls each finished one, and his seams were declared the
+strongest and neatest. (Had any curved or angular work been brought, he
+could not have stitched it.) Still Howe did not receive a single order.
+The fear of throwing hand sewers out of work was again expressed, and,
+in addition, the cost of the machine was said to be too high. When it
+was estimated that a large shirtmaker would have to buy thirty or forty
+such machines, the necessary large investment was dismissed as
+ridiculous.
+
+Howe was not too discouraged. In the meantime, he had finished a second
+machine for deposit with the patent specifications, as the patent laws
+then required. The second was a better made machine (fig. 15) and showed
+several minor changes. As soon as the patent was issued on September 10,
+1846, Howe and his partner returned to Cambridge.
+
+Without the inventor's enthusiasm or love of his own invention, George
+Fisher became thoroughly discouraged. He had boarded Howe and his family
+for nearly two years, had furnished the money needed to purchase the
+tools and materials for making the two sewing machines, had met the
+expense of obtaining the patent and the trip of Howe and himself to
+Washington; representing in all an outlay of practically $2000. Since no
+orders for machines had been received from either garment makers or
+tailors, Fisher did not see the slightest probability of the machine's
+becoming profitable and regarded his advances of cash as a dead loss.
+
+Howe moved back to his father's house with a plan to look elsewhere for
+a chance to introduce the machine. Obtaining a loan from his father, he
+built another machine and sent it to England by his brother Amasa. After
+many discouraging attempts to interest the British, Amasa met William
+Thomas, a manufacturer of umbrellas, corsets, and leather goods. Thomas
+employed many workmen, all of whom stitched by hand, and he immediately
+saw the possibilities of a sewing machine. He proposed that Howe sell
+the machine to him for L250 sterling (about $1250). Thomas further
+proposed to engage the inventor to adapt this machine to the making of
+corsets, at a salary of L3 a week.
+
+When Amasa Howe returned to Cambridge with the news, Elias was reluctant
+to accept Thomas' offer but had nothing better in sight. So the brothers
+sailed for London in February 1847, taking with them Howe's first
+machine and his patent papers. Thomas later advanced the passage money
+for Howe's wife and three children so that they could join Howe in
+England.
+
+At this point, historians disagree on how long Howe was in Thomas'
+employ and whether he succeeded in adapting the machine to meet Thomas'
+needs. He was in England long enough, however, to find himself without
+employment in a strange country, his funds nearly exhausted, and his
+wife ill. He hoped to profit by the notice that his work had received
+and began to build another machine. He sent his family home to reduce
+expenses while he stayed on to finish the machine.
+
+After working on it for three or four months, he was forced to sell it
+for five pounds and to take a note for that. To collect enough for his
+passage home, he sold the note for four pounds cash and pawned his
+precious first machine and his patent papers. He landed in New York in
+April 1849 with but half a crown in his pocket to show for his labors. A
+short time after he arrived, he learned that his wife was desperately
+ill. Only with a loan from his father was he able to reach her side
+before she died. Friends were found to look after the children, and
+Elias returned to work as a journeyman machinist.
+
+Howe discovered, much to his surprise, that during his absence in
+England the sewing machine had become recognized in the United States.
+Several machines made in Boston had been sold to manufacturers and were
+in daily operation. Upon investigating them, he felt that they utilized
+all or part of the invention that he had patented in 1846, and he
+prepared to secure just compensation for its use. The first thing he did
+was to regain his first machine and patent papers from the London
+pawnshop. It was no easy matter for Howe to raise the money, but by
+summer he had managed. It was sent to London with Anson Burlingame, who
+redeemed the loans, and by autumn of the same year the precious
+possessions were back in Howe's hands. Though Howe gained nothing by his
+English experience, William Thomas by his modest expenditure obtained
+all rights to the machine for Great Britain. This later proved to be a
+valuable property.
+
+Howe then began writing letters to those whom he considered patent
+infringers, requesting them to pay a fee or discontinue the manufacture
+of sewing machines which incorporated his patented inventions. Some at
+first were willing to pay the fee, but they were persuaded by the others
+to stand with them and resist Howe. This action forced Howe to the
+courts. With his father's aid he began a suit, but soon found that
+considerably more money than either possessed was necessary for such
+actions. Howe turned once more to George Fisher, but years of investing
+money in Howe's machine without any monetary return had cooled him to
+the idea. Fisher, however, agreed to sell his half interest, and in
+February 1851 George S. Jackson, Daniel C. Johnson, and William E.
+Whiting became joint owners with Howe. These men helped Howe to procure
+witnesses in the furtherance of numerous suits, but more money was
+needed than they could raise. The following year a Massachusetts man by
+the name of George W. Bliss was persuaded to advance the money for the
+heavy legal expenses needed to protect the patent. Bliss did this as a
+speculation and demanded additional security. Once more Elias'
+long-suffering parent came to the rescue and mortgaged his farm to get
+the necessary collateral.
+
+Only one of these suits was prosecuted to a hearing, but this one,
+relatively unimportant in itself, set the precedent. In it the defense
+relied on the earlier invention of Walter Hunt to oppose Howe's claims.
+The defendant succeeded in proving that Hunt invented, perfected, and
+sold two machines in 1834 and 1835 which contained all the essential
+devices in Howe's machine of 1846. But Howe showed that the defendant's
+machine (which was a Blodgett and Lerow) contained some features of
+Howe's machine which were not in Hunt's. The jury decided the case in
+favor of Howe. Howe later fought a vigorous battle with Isaac Singer,
+but after much legal controversy the ultimate decision in that case also
+was in Howe's favor. The suits and payments to each patent holder for
+the right to use his idea were choking the sewing-machine industry. Even
+Howe could not manufacture a practical machine without an infringement.
+Finally an agreement was reached and a "Combination" was formed by the
+major patent holders (see pp. 41-42).
+
+In the meantime, eight years of the first term of Howe's patent had
+expired without producing much revenue. This permitted Howe, upon the
+death of his partner, George Bliss, to buy Bliss' half interest for a
+small sum. He became, then, the sole owner of his patent just as it was
+to bring him a fortune. He obtained a seven-year extension for his
+patent in 1860 without any difficulty, and in 1867, when he applied for
+another extension, he stated that he had received $1,185,000 from it.
+Though he endeavored to show that because of the machine's great value
+to the public he was entitled to receive at least $150,000,000, the
+second application was denied.
+
+During the Civil War, Howe enlisted as a private soldier in the 17th
+Regiment Connecticut Volunteers. He went into the field and served as an
+enlisted man. On occasion when the Government was pressed for funds to
+pay its soldiers, he advanced the money necessary to pay his entire
+regiment.
+
+Howe did not establish a sewing-machine factory until just before his
+death in 1867. One of his early licensees had been his elder brother,
+Amasa, who had organized the Howe Sewing Machine Company about 1853.
+When Elias began manufacturing machines on his own, he sunk into the
+bedplate of each machine a brass medallion bearing his likeness. Elias
+gave his company the same name that his elder brother had used. As this
+had been Amasa's exclusive property for many years, he took the matter
+to the courts where the decision went against Elias. He then organized
+the Howe Machine Company and began to manufacture sewing machines. On
+October 3, 1867, Elias died in Brooklyn, New York, at the home of one of
+his sons-in-law. The company was then carried on by his two sons-in-law,
+who were Stockwell brothers. In 1872 the Howe Sewing Machine Company was
+sold by Amasa's son to the Stockwells' Howe Machine Company, which in
+turn went out of business in the mid-1880s.
+
+
+ALLEN BENJAMIN WILSON
+
+Allen B. Wilson was born in the small town of Willett, Cortlandt County,
+New York, in 1824. At sixteen he was apprenticed to a distant relative,
+a cabinetmaker. Unfortunate circumstances caused him to leave this
+employ, and in 1847 Wilson was in Adrian, Michigan, working as a
+journeyman cabinetmaker. The place and year are important, for it was at
+this time that he conceived his idea of a sewing machine. Because of the
+distant location, it is believed that he was not aware of similar
+efforts being made in New England. Wilson became ill and for many months
+could not work at his trade. By August 1848 he was able to work again
+and found employment at Pittsfield, Massachusetts. Resolving to develop
+his idea of a sewing machine, he worked diligently and by November had
+made full drawings of all the parts, according to his previous
+conceptions.
+
+In comparison to the monetary returns received by the inventors Howe and
+Singer, Wilson himself did not receive as great a monetary reward for
+his outstanding sewing-machine inventions. Because of his health Wilson
+retired in 1853, when the stock company was formed, but he received a
+regular salary and additional money from the patent renewals. Wilson
+petitioned for a second extension of his patents on April 7, 1874,
+stating that, due to his early poverty, he had been compelled to sell a
+half interest in a patent (his first one) for the sum of $200. Also he
+stated that he had not received more than his expenses during the
+original fourteen-year term. Wilson also stated that he had received
+only $137,000 during the first seven-year extension period. These
+figures were verified by his partner. The petition was read before both
+Houses of Congress and referred to the Committee on Patents.[94] There
+was strong feeling against the extension of the Wilson patents. The New
+York _Daily Graphic_, December 30, 1874, reported:
+
+[Illustration: Figure 136.--ALLEN BENJAMIN WILSON, 1824-1888. From a
+drawing owned by the Singer Mfg. Co. Formerly, the drawing was owned by
+the Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co. (Smithsonian photo 32066.)]
+
+     So valuable has been this latter four-motion feed that few or no
+     cloth-sewing machines are now made without it. The joint ownership
+     of this feature of the Wilson patents has served to bind the
+     combination of sewing-machine builders together, and enabled them
+     to defy competition by force of the monopoly. It is this feature
+     which the combination wishes to further monopolize for seven years
+     by act of Congress. The inventor has probably realized millions for
+     his invention. Singer admits that his patents, which are much less
+     important, paid him two millions prior to 1870, since which time he
+     has not been compelled to render an account. The Wilson patents
+     with their extended terms were worth a much larger sum. They have
+     been public property, so far as the feed is concerned, since June
+     15, 1873, and will remain so if too great a pressure is not brought
+     to bear on Congress for their extension. A monopoly of this feed
+     motion for seven years more would be worth from ten to thirty
+     millions to the owner--and would cost the people four times as
+     much.
+
+Wilson had not made the millions for he only received a small percentage
+of the renewals' earnings plus his salary from the patents' owner, the
+Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing Company.
+
+The Congressional Committee on Patents made an adverse report in 1874
+and again in 1875 and 1876, when applications for an extension were
+continued
+
+Wilson died on April 29, 1888.
+
+
+ISAAC MERRITT SINGER
+
+[Illustration: Figure 137.--- ISAAC MERRITT SINGER, 1811-1875. From a
+charcoal drawing owned by the Singer Mfg. Co. (Smithsonian photo
+32066-B)]
+
+Isaac Singer, whose name is known around the world as a manufacturer of
+sewing machines, was the eighth child of poor German immigrants. Isaac
+was born on October 27, 1811, in Pittstown, New York, but most of his
+early life was spent in Oswego. He worked as a mechanic and
+cabinetmaker, but acquired an interest in the theater. Under the name of
+Isaac Merritt, he went to Rochester and became an actor. In 1839, during
+an absence from the theater, he completed his first invention, a
+mechanical excavator, which he sold for $2000. With the money Singer
+organized a theatrical troupe of his own, which he called "The Merritt
+Players." When the group failed in Fredericksburg, Ohio, Singer was
+stranded for lack of funds.
+
+Forced to find some type of employment, Singer took a job in a
+Fredericksburg plant that manufactured wooden printers' type. He quickly
+recognized the need for an improved type-carving machine. After
+inventing and patenting one, he found no financial support in
+Fredericksburg and decided to take the machine to New York City. Here,
+the firm of A. B. Taylor and Co. agreed to furnish the money and give
+Singer room in its Hague Street factory to build machines. A boiler
+explosion destroyed the first machine, and Taylor refused to advance
+more money.
+
+While Singer was with Taylor, George B. Zieber, a bookseller who had
+seen the type-carving machine, considered its value to publishers.
+Zieber offered to help Singer and raised $1700 to build another model.
+In June 1850 the machine was completed. Singer and Zieber took the
+machine to Boston where they rented display space in the steam-powered
+workshop of Orson C. Phelps at 19 Harvard Place. Only a few publishers
+came to look at the machine, and none wanted to buy it.
+
+Singer, contemplating his future, became interested in Phelps' work,
+manufacturing sewing machines for J. A. Lerow and S. C. Blodgett. Phelps
+welcomed Singer's interest as the design of the mechanism was faulty and
+purchasers kept returning the machines for repairs. Singer examined the
+sewing machine with the eyes of a practical machinist. He criticized the
+action of the shuttle, which passed around a circle, and the needle bar,
+which pushed a curved needle horizontally. Singer suggested that the
+shuttle move to and fro in a straight path and that a straight needle be
+used vertically. Phelps encouraged Singer to abandon the type-carving
+machine and turn his energies toward the improvement of the sewing
+machine. Convinced that he could make his ideas work, Singer sketched a
+rough draft of his proposed machine, and with the support of Zieber and
+Phelps the work began.
+
+Singer continued to be active in the sewing-machine business until 1863.
+He made his home in Paris for a short time and then moved to England.
+While living at Torquay he conceived the idea of a fabulous Greco-Roman
+mansion, which he planned to have built at Paignton. Singer called it
+"The Wigwam." Unfortunately, after all his plans, he did not live to see
+its completion. Singer died on July 23, 1875, of heart disease at the
+age of sixty-three.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[93] _The Proceedings and Debates of the 43rd Congress_, First Session,
+1874 Congressional Record, vol. 2, part 3, petition read to the House by
+Mr. Creamer on April 7, 1874. In part 4 of the same, Mr. Buckingham read
+a similar petition to the Senate on May 19, 1874. Both were referred to
+the Committee on Patents; an extension was not granted.
+
+
+
+
+_Bibliography_
+
+
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+     universal cyclopaedia_, New York: D. Appleton and Company, 1895.
+
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+     341-353 in _The Practical Mechanic's Journal's record of the great
+     exhibition, 1862_. 1862.
+
+     ----. On the sewing machine: Its history and progress. _Journal of
+     the Royal Society of Arts_ (April 10, 1863), vol. 2, no. 542, p.
+     358.
+
+     AMERICAN HISTORICAL SOCIETY. _The life and works of George H.
+     Corliss._ (Privately printed for Mary Corliss by the Society.)
+     1930.
+
+     Biography of Isaac M. Singer. _The Atlas_, New York, N.Y., March
+     20, 1853.
+
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+     manufactures from 1608 to 1860_, by Bishop; Philadelphia: Edward
+     Young and Company, 1866.
+
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+     In vol. 2 of _Report of the Committee on Awards_; Chicago: World's
+     Columbian Exposition, 1893.
+
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+     universal cyclopaedia_; New York: D. Appleton and Company, 1874.
+
+     BURR, J. B. _The great industries of the United States._ Hartford:
+     J. B. Burr and Hyde, n.d.
+
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+     Press, 1922.
+
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+     sewing machines_ by F. G. Bourne. New York: D. O. Haines, 1895.
+
+     DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA CIRCUIT COURT. Case of Hunt vs. Howe. In
+     _Federal Cases_, case 6891, book 12, 1855.
+
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+     progress. Philadelphia: Modern Progress Publishing Company, 1905.
+
+     DURGIN, CHARLES A. _Digest of patents on sewing machines, Feb. 21,
+     1842-July 1, 1859._ New York: Livesey Brothers, 1859.
+
+     FAIRFIELD, GEORGE A. Report on sewing machines. In vol. 3 of
+     _Report of the commissioners of the United States to the
+     international exhibition held at Vienna, 1873._ 1874.
+
+     FISKE, BRADLEY A. _Invention, the master-key to progress._ New
+     York: E. P. Dutton and Company, 1921.
+
+     GIFFORD, GEORGE W. [Counsel for Elias Howe, Jr.] _Argument of
+     Gifford in favor of Howe's application for extension of patent._
+     Washington: U.S. Patent Office, 1860.
+
+     GRANGER, JEAN. Thimonnier et la machine a coudre. In vol. 2 of _Les
+     publications techniques._ Paris, 1943. [Source for biographical
+     sketch on Barthelemy Thimonnier.]
+
+     GREGORY, GEORGE W. _Machines, etc., used in sewing and making
+     clothing._ Vol. 7 of _Reports and Awards_. Philadelphia
+     International Exhibition, 1876. U.S. Centennial Commission,
+     Washington, D.C., 1880.
+
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+     1864.
+
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+     by the author, 1860.
+
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+     machines._ Published by the company for the Philadelphia Centennial
+     Exposition, 1876.
+
+     HUBERT, PHILIP G., JR. _Men of achievement: inventors._ New York:
+     Charles Scribner's Sons, 1894.
+
+     HUNT, CLINTON N. _Walter Hunt, American inventor._ Published by the
+     author, 1935. [Source for biographical sketch on Walter Hunt.]
+
+     INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION. Sewing and knitting machines. In _Reports
+     of the Juries_, Class VII, Section A. London, 1862.
+
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+     trade._ Published by the company, 1883.
+
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+     _Making clothes by machine_, by John Walker Harrington, vol 2. New
+     York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1924.
+
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+     Company, 1892.
+
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+     dictionary_. Boston: Houghton, Mifflin and Company, 1882.
+
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+     the sewing machine. Pp. 559-583 in Annual Report of the Smithsonian
+     Institution (1929); Washington: 1930.
+
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+     1760-1813, Erfinder der Naehmaschine._ Hamburg, Germany: Verlag
+     Herbert Luth, 1941.
+
+     ----. _Josef Madersperger oder der unscheinbore Genius._ Hamburg,
+     Germany: Reichsnerband des Deutschen Naehmaschinenhandels EV, 1933
+     [?].
+
+     Obituary of Isaac M. Singer. _New York Tribune_, July 26, 1875.
+
+     MADERSPERGER, JOSEPH. _Beschreibung einer Naehmaschine._ Vienna, ca.
+     1816.
+
+     O'BRIEN, WALTER. Sewing machines. _Textile American_, reprinted
+     March 1931. [A paper read at a meeting of the Leicester Textile
+     Society.]
+
+     ORCUTT, REV. SAMUEL. _A history of the old town of Stratford and
+     the city of Bridgeport, Connecticut._ 2 vols. Fairfield County
+     Historical Society, 1886.
+
+     PARIS UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION. _Reports of the U.S. Commissioners
+     General Survey_, vol. 1, pp. 293-297. 1867.
+
+     PARTON, JAMES. History of the sewing machine. _Atlantic Monthly_,
+     May 1867.
+
+     RAYMOND, WILLIAM CHANDLER. _Curiosities of the Patent Office._
+     Syracuse, N.Y.: published by the author, 1888.
+
+     REID, J. A. _A monograph prepared for American industrial education
+     conference and exposition._ Elizabethport, N.J.: Singer
+     Manufacturing Company, 1915.
+
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+     Langensalza, Berlin, and Leipzig: Verlag Julius Beltz, 1933.
+
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+     November 24, 1849; July 17, 1852; July 9 and November 5, 1859;
+     January 3 and May 16, 1863; October 19, 1867; and July 25, 1896.
+
+     SCOTT, JOHN. _Genius rewarded, or the story of the sewing machine._
+     New York: J. J. Caulon, 1880.
+
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+     1913.
+
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+
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+     1-16, 1879-1893.
+
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+     1-38 (nos. 1-725), 1891-April 1924.
+
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+
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+
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+     of America. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1921.
+
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+     Massachusetts._ Vol. 1. Spencer, Mass.: W. G. Heffernan, 1901.
+
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+     scientific and educational series. London: Crosby Lockwood and Co.,
+     1881.
+
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+     Vol. 2. Boston: Van Slyck and Company, 1879. [Source for
+     biographical sketch on Allen Benjamin Wilson, Van Slyck, vol. 2,
+     pp. 672-682.]
+
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+     Bridgeport, Conn.: S. J. Clarke Publishing Company, 1917.
+
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+     vol. 4, August 1867.
+
+
+
+
+_Indexes_
+
+
+Geographical Index to Companies listed in Appendix II
+
+
+CONNECTICUT
+
+Bridgeport
+  D. W. Clark, 67
+  Jerome B. Secor, 68
+  Goodbody Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Howe Machine Co., 69
+  Secor Machine Co., 72
+  American Hand Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  Wheeler & Wilson Mfg. Co., 74
+
+Bristol
+  Nettleton & Raymond, 72
+  Watson & Wooster, 73
+
+Danbury
+  Bartram & Fanton Mfg. Co., 66
+
+Hartford
+  Morrison, Wilkinson & Co., 71
+  Weed Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Meriden
+  Fosket and Savage, 68
+  Charles Parker Co., 72
+  Parker Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+Middletown
+  Victor Sewing Machine Co., 73
+
+Norwich
+  Greenman and True Mfg. Co., 69
+
+Waterbury
+  Waterbury Co., 73
+
+West Meriden
+  Parkers, Snow, Brooks & Co., 70
+
+
+DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA
+
+Washington
+  Post Combination Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+
+ILLINOIS
+
+Belleville
+  Thomas M. Cochrane Co., 71
+  J. H. Drew & Co., 71
+
+Belvidere
+  June Mfg. Co., 70
+  National Sewing Machine Co., 71
+
+Chicago
+  Chicago Sewing Machine Co., 67
+  Eldredge Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Free Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Scates, Tryber & Sweetland Mfg., 67
+  Sigwalt Sewing Machine Co., 67, 73
+  H. B. Goodrich, 69
+  June Mfg. Co., 70
+
+Rockford
+  Free Sewing Machine Co., 69
+
+
+MAINE
+
+Biddeford
+  Shaw & Clark Sewing Machine Co., 71, 73
+
+
+MASSACHUSETTS
+
+Boston
+  O. Phelps, 66
+  J. F. Paul & Co., 66
+  Boston Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  Bradford & Barber, mfgs., 66
+  John P. Bowker, 68
+  Empire Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Finkle & Lyon Sewing Machine Co., 68, 73
+  Grover and Baker Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Nichols and Bliss, 69
+  J. B. Nichols & Co., 69
+  Nichols, Leavitt & Co., 69, 70
+  N. Hunt & Co., 70
+  Hunt and Webster, 70
+  Emery, Houghton & Co., 70
+  Ladd, Webster & Co., 70
+  Leavitt & Co., 70
+  Leavitt Sewing Machine Co., 70
+  Safford & Williams Makers, 71
+  C. A. French, 72
+  F. R. Robinson, 72
+  Howard & Davis, 72
+  I. M. Singer & Co., 73
+  Butterfield & Stevens Mfg. Co., 74
+  Williams & Orvis Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Chicopee Falls
+  Shaw & Clark Co., 73
+  Chicopee Sewing Machine Co., 73
+
+Florence
+  Florence Sewing Machine Co., 67, 68
+
+Foxboro
+  Foxboro Rotary Shuttle Co., 68
+
+Lowell
+  Aetna Sewing Machine Co., 65
+
+Lynn
+  Woolridge, Keene and Moore, 67
+
+Orange
+  Gold Medal Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Johnson, Clark & Co., 69, 71, 73
+  Grout & White, 71
+  New Home Sewing Machine Co., 71
+
+Springfield
+  Leader Sewing Machine Co., 70
+  Springfield Sewing Machine Co., 73
+  D. B. Wesson Sewing Machine Co.,74
+
+Winchendon
+  J. G. Folsom, 68, 69, 71
+  William Grout, 71
+
+Worcester
+  Goddard, Rice & Co., 66
+
+
+MICHIGAN
+
+Detroit
+  Decker Mfg. Co., 67
+  C. G. Gardner, 69
+
+
+MISSOURI
+
+St. Louis
+  Wardwell Mfg. Co., 73
+
+
+NEW HAMPSHIRE
+
+Dover
+  O. L. Reynolds Manufacturing Co., 71
+
+Marlboro
+  Thurston Mfg. Co., 67
+
+Mason Village
+  Franklin Sewing Machine Co., 68
+
+
+NEW JERSEY
+
+Elizabethport
+  Singer Mfg. Co. (manufactory, not office), 73
+
+Paterson
+  Whitney Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+
+NEW YORK
+
+Binghamton
+  Independent Sewing Machine Co., 70
+
+Brooklyn
+  J. H. Lester, 70
+  G. L. Du Laney, 70
+
+Ithaca
+  Aiken and Felthousen (patentees), 65
+  American Magnetic Sewing Machine Co., 65
+  Clinton Brothers, 67
+  T. C. Thompson, 73
+
+New York
+  Avery Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  A. Bartholf, mfg., 66
+  Bartholf Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  Bartlett Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  Barlow & Son, 66
+  Beckwith Sewing Machine Co., 66
+  J. A. Davis, 67
+  Demorest Mfg. Co., 67
+  Charles A. Durgin, 68
+  Elliptic Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Eureka Shuttle Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Excelsior Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Madame Demorest, 68
+  First and Frost, 68
+  L. Griswold, 69
+  Howe Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Thos. A. Macauley Mfg., 70
+  New York Sewing Machine Co., 71
+  T. W. Robertson, 72
+  I. M. Singer & Co., 73
+  Singer Mfg. Co., 73
+  Standard Shuttle Sewing Machine Co., 73
+  Henry Stewart & Co., 73
+  Stewart Mfg. Co., 73
+  E. E. Lee & Co., 74
+  Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Watertown
+  Davis Sewing Machine Co., 67
+  Wheeler, Wilson & Co., 74
+
+Westmoreland
+  A. B. Buell, 67
+
+
+OHIO
+
+Cleveland
+  Wilson (W. G.) Sewing Machine Co., 66, 74
+  Domestic Sewing Machine Co. (after 1924), 67
+  Leslie Sewing Machine Co., 70
+  Standard Sewing Machine Co., 73
+  White Sewing Machine Co., 74
+
+Dayton
+  Davis Sewing Machine Co., 67
+
+Elyria
+  West & Willson Co., 74
+
+Norwalk
+  Dauntless Mfg. Co., 67, 72
+  Wm. A. Mack & Co., and N. S. Perkins, 67
+  Domestic Sewing Machine Co., 67, 70
+
+Springfield
+  Royal Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  St. John Sewing Machine Co., 73
+
+Toledo
+  Jewel Mfg. Co., 70
+
+
+PENNSYLVANIA
+
+Erie
+  Noble Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+Philadelphia
+  American Buttonhole, Overseaming and Sewing Machine Co., 65
+  Centennial Sewing Machine Co., 67
+  George B. Sloat and Co., 68
+  Rex & Bockius, 69
+  Grant Bros. & Co., 69
+  B. W. Lacey & Co., 71
+  Parham Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  Philadelphia Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  Quaker City Sewing Machine Co., 72
+  E. Remington & Sons, 72
+  Taggart & Farr, 73
+
+Pittsburgh
+  Love Mfg. Co., 70
+
+
+RHODE ISLAND
+
+Providence
+  Household Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Providence Tool Co., 69
+
+
+VERMONT
+
+Brattleboro
+  Samuel Barker and Thomas White, 66
+  Brattleboro Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Estey Sewing Machine Co., 68
+  Higby Sewing Machine Co., 69
+  Nettleton & Raymond (Charles Raymond), 71
+
+Windsor
+  Lamson, Goodnow & Yale, 67, 74
+  Vermont Arms Co., 74
+
+
+VIRGINIA
+
+Richmond
+  Lester Mfg. Co., 70
+  Union Sewing Machine Co., 68, 70
+  Old Dominion Sewing Machine Co., 72
+
+
+WISCONSIN
+
+Milwaukee
+  Whitehill Mfg. Co., 74
+
+
+Alphabetical Index to Patentees listed in Appendix III
+
+
+Abercrombi, Charles, 520977
+
+Abbott, W. W., 252984
+
+Adams, John Q., 92138
+
+Alexander, Elisa, 16518
+
+Ambler, D. C., 11884
+
+Angell, Benjamin J., 19285
+
+Applegate, John H., and Webb, Charles B., 177784
+
+Appleton, C. J., and Sibley, J. J., 179440
+
+Arnold, B., 86121, 138981, 138982
+
+Arnold, G. B. and A., 30112
+
+Arnold, G. B., 28139
+
+Atwater, B., 44063
+
+Atwood, J. E., 22273
+
+Atwood, K. C., 194759
+
+Atwood, J. E., J. C., and O., 19903
+
+Avery, Otis, 9338, 10880
+
+Avery, O. and Z. W., 22007
+
+
+Bachelder, J., 6439
+
+Baglin, William, 154113
+
+Baker, G. W., 70152, 125374, 130005
+
+Baldwin, Cyrus W., 38276
+
+Banks, C. M., 225784
+
+Barcellos, D., 203102
+
+Barnes, M. M., 106307
+
+Barnes, William T., 20688, 25084, 25876
+
+Barney, Samuel C., 156119
+
+Barrett, O. D., 25785
+
+Bartholf, Abraham, 19823
+
+Bartlett, Joseph W., 46064, 76385
+
+Bartlett, Joseph W., and Plant, Frederick, 159065
+
+Barton, Kate C., 182096
+
+Bartram, W. B., 54670, 54671, 60669, 62520, 83592, 104247, 130557
+
+Bates, W. G., assignor to Johnson, William H., 9592
+
+Bayley, C. H., 212122
+
+Bean, Benjamin W., 2982
+
+Bean, E. E., 28144
+
+Beardslee, W. F., 245781
+
+Beck, August, 190184, 196863
+
+Beckwith, William G., 126921, 133351, 167382
+
+Behn, Henry, 18071, 18880
+
+Belcher, C. D., 16710
+
+Benedict, C. P., 83596
+
+Bennett, Frank Howard, and Dowling, James, 409728
+
+Bennor, Joseph, 106249
+
+Benson, George, 238556
+
+Beukler, William, 204704
+
+Beuttel, Charles, 115155
+
+Bigelow, J., 263467
+
+Billings, C. E., 88603
+
+Bishop, H. H., 22226
+
+Black, Samuel S., 146642
+
+Blake, Lyman R., 20775, 74289
+
+Blanchard, Helen A., 141987
+
+Bland, Henry, 216016, 221505
+
+Blodgett, S. C, 15469, 21465
+
+Blodgett, John W., 279320
+
+Boecher, Adam, 300199
+
+Bond, Joseph Jr., 12939, 93588, 189599
+
+Booth, Ezekiel, 25087
+
+Boppel, Jacob, 396979
+
+Borton, S., 214089
+
+Borton, Stockton, and Willcox, Charles H., 255576, 255577, 255580, 255581
+
+Bosworth, C. F., 19979, 38807, 122555, 199500, 216504
+
+Bounaz, A., 83909, 83910
+
+Bouscay, Eloi, Jr., 127145
+
+Bowyer, J. T., 454708
+
+Boyd, A. H., 19171, 24003, 31864
+
+Bracher, T. W., 221508
+
+Bradeen, J. G., 9380
+
+Bradford, E. F. and Pierce, V. R., 177371
+
+Braundbeck, E., 127675
+
+Brewer, A. G., 152894
+
+Briggs, Thomas, 198790
+
+Brown, F. H., 94389, 102366, 131735, 193477
+
+Bruen, J. T., 31208
+
+Bruen, L. B., 68839
+
+Budlong, William G., 25946
+
+Buell, J. S., 25381
+
+Buhr, Johannes, 151272
+
+Burnet, S. S. and Broderick, W., 22160
+
+Burr, Theodore, 32023
+
+Butcher, Joseph, 180542, 233657
+
+
+Cadwell, Caleb, 45972, 71131
+
+Cajar, Emil, 50299, 61711
+
+Cameron, James W., 272527
+
+Campbell, Duncan H., 241612, 241613
+
+Canfield, F. P., 86057
+
+Carhart, Peter S., 24098
+
+Carlisle, W. S., 270540
+
+Carpenter, Lunan, 20990
+
+Carpenter, Mary P., 112016
+
+Carpenter, William, 87633
+
+Carr, William H. and Ostrom, F. W., 303361
+
+Case, George F., 33029
+
+Cately, William H., 56902
+
+Chamberlain, J. N., 28452
+
+Chandler, Rufus, 133757, 139368
+
+Charmbury, H., 316745
+
+Chase, M., 113498
+
+Chilcott, J. and Scrimgeour, J., 12856
+
+Chittenden, H. H., 43289
+
+Choquette, A. E., 244033
+
+Clark, David W., 19015, 19072, 19129, 19409, 19732, 20481, 21322, 23823
+
+Clark, Edwin, 26336
+
+Clark, Edwin E., 74751
+
+Clements, James M., 57451
+
+Cleminshaw, S., 128363, 213391
+
+Clever, P. J., 96886
+
+Clever, Peter J., 296529
+
+Coates, F. S., 19684
+
+Cole, W. H., 79447
+
+Conant, J. S., 12233
+
+Conklin, N. A., 206774
+
+Cook, Hugo, 454610
+
+Cooney, W., 102226
+
+Corbett, E. and Harlow, C. F., 192568
+
+Corey, J. W., 198970
+
+Corliss, George H., 3389
+
+Cornely, E., 73696
+
+Cornely, Emile, 219225
+
+Craige, E. H., 62186, 67635
+
+Crane, Thomas, 150532
+
+Crosby, C. O., 50225, 90507
+
+Crosby, C. O. and Kellogg, H., 37033
+
+Cummins, William G., 187822
+
+Curtis, G. H. W., 228985
+
+Cushman, C. S., 142442, 184594
+
+
+Dale, John D., 44686
+
+Dancel, Christian, 199802
+
+Darling and Darling, 163639
+
+Davis, Job A., 27208, 58614
+
+Derocquigny, A. C. F., Gance, D., and Hanzo, L., 34748
+
+Deschamps, O. L., 253915
+
+Destouy, Auguste, 56729
+
+Dewees, John W., 432746
+
+Dickinson, C. W., 26346
+
+Diehl, Philipp, 339623, 347776, 347777, 348113
+
+Dieterle, H. E., 353542
+
+Dimmock, Martial and  Rixford, Nathan, 19135
+
+Dimond, George H., 196198, 207400
+
+Dinsmore, Alfred S., 160512, 231155
+
+Dinsmore, A. S., and Carter, John T., 152618
+
+Doll, Arnold, 68420
+
+Dopp, H. W., 27279
+
+Dowling, James, and Connolly, John, 299118
+
+Drake, Ellis, 155932
+
+Duchemin, William, 59715, 91101, 135032, 288929
+
+Dunbar, C. F., 88282
+
+Durgin, Charles A., 12902
+
+
+Earle, T., 31156
+
+Eickemeyer, Rudolf, 52698, 182182, 239319
+
+Elderfield, F. D., 204429
+
+Eldridge, G. W., 87331
+
+Elliott, F., 85918
+
+Emerson, John, 50989
+
+Emswiler, J. B., 25002
+
+Esty, William, 187837
+
+
+Fales, J. F., 74328
+
+Fanning, John, 72829, 129013
+
+Farr, Chester N., 25004
+
+Farrar, Arthur, 309837
+
+Fetter, George, 18793, 19059
+
+Fish, Warren L., 123625
+
+Fletcher, James N., 443756
+
+Follett, Joseph L., 189446
+
+Fosket, William A., and Savage, Elliot,  22719, 25963
+
+French, Stephen, 80345
+
+Frese, B., 172308
+
+Fuller, H. W., 63033
+
+Fuller, William M., 32496
+
+
+Garland, H. P., 159812, 169163
+
+Gee, W. V., 361406
+
+Gibbs, James E. A., 16234, 16434, 17427, 21129, 21751, 27214, 28851
+
+Gird, E. D., 87559
+
+Goodes, E. A., 136718, 147387
+
+Goodspeed, G. N., 54816
+
+Goodwin, Julius C., 450793
+
+Goodwyn, H. H., 24455
+
+Goodyear, Charles Jr., 111197, 116947
+
+Gordon, James, and Kinert, William, 125807
+
+Gray, Joshua, 16566, 19665, 24022, 95581
+
+Green, George F., 238678
+
+Greenough, John J., 2466
+
+Gritzner, M. C., 44720, 76323
+
+Gritzner, Max C., 243444
+
+Grote, F. W., 38447
+
+Grout, William, 24629
+
+Grover, William O., 14956, 33778, 36405, 100139
+
+Grover, William O., and Baker, William E., 7931
+
+Guinness, William S., 41916
+
+Gullrandsen, P. E., and Rettinger, J. C., 180225
+
+Gutmann, Julius, 90528
+
+
+Halbert, A. W., 76076
+
+Hall, William, 24870
+
+Hale, William S., 36084
+
+Hall, Luther, 43404
+
+Hall, L., 105329
+
+Hall, John S., 168637, 187006
+
+Hallenbeck, J. P., 425422
+
+Hallett, H. H., 191584
+
+Hamm, E., 219578
+
+Hancock, Henry J., 83492, 112033
+
+Hanlon, John, 52847
+
+Happe, J., and Newman, W., 130715, 137199
+
+Hardie, J. W., 30854
+
+Harris, Daniel, 17508, 17571
+
+Harris, David, 185228
+
+Harrison, J. Jr., 10763, 13616, 25013, 25262
+
+Hart, William, 50469
+
+Hayes, James, 55029
+
+Hayden, H. W., 24937
+
+Heberling, J., 204604, 227249, 227525, 284300
+
+Hecht, A., 50473
+
+Heery, Luke, 94740
+
+Heidenthal, William, 127765
+
+Helwig, Arthur, 350364
+
+Hendrick, Joseph E., 19660, 21722
+
+Hendrickson, E. M., 34330
+
+Henriksen, H. P., 104590, 188515, 215615
+
+Hensel, George, 24737
+
+Herron, A. C., 20557
+
+Hesse, Joseph, 235085
+
+Heyer, W. D., 40622
+
+Heyer, Frederick, 30731
+
+Hicks, William C., 26035, 29268
+
+Hinkley, Jonas, 25231
+
+Hinds, Jesse L., 131166
+
+Hine, Charles M., 420382
+
+Hine, Charlie M., 246136
+
+Hodgkins, Christopher, 9365, 33085, 69666
+
+Hoefler, J., 246883
+
+Hoffman, George W., 94112
+
+Hoffman, Clara P., and Meyers, Nicholas, 207035
+
+Holden, O. J., and Griswold, L., 272050
+
+Hollowell, J. G., 27624
+
+Holly, Birdsill, 28176
+
+Hook, Albert H., 22179, 24027
+
+Horr, Addison D., 149862
+
+House, James A., 206239
+
+House, James A., and House, Henry A., 36932, 39442, 39445, 55865, 87338, 114294
+
+Howard, C. W., 126056, 126057
+
+Howard, T. S. L., 199206
+
+Howard, E. L., 154485
+
+Howard, E., and Jackson, W. H., 103745
+
+Howe, Amasa Bemis, 37913
+
+Howe, Elias, 4750, 16436
+
+Hubbard, George W., 18904, 21537
+
+Hull, E. H., 254217
+
+Humphrey, D. W. G., 36617, 49627
+
+Hunt, Walter, 11161
+
+Huntington, Thomas S., 158214
+
+Hurtu, Auguste J., 258761, 315037
+
+Hurtu, Auguste J., and Hautin, Victor J., 98064
+
+
+Ingalls, N., Jr., 212602
+
+
+Jackson, Francis, 519064
+
+Jackson, William, 181941
+
+Jacob, Frederick, 190047
+
+Jencks, G. L., 74694
+
+Jennings, L., 16237
+
+Johnson, Albert F., 16387, 20686, 26948
+
+Johnson, W. H., 10597
+
+Jones, John T., 86163, 117640, 169106
+
+Jones, Samuel H., 140631
+
+Jones, Solomon, 118537, 118538
+
+Jones, William, and Haughian, P., 32297
+
+Juengst, George, 27132, 228820
+
+Junker, Carl, 217112
+
+
+Kallmeyer, G., 137689
+
+Keats, Alphonso, 260990
+
+Keats, John, 198120
+
+Keats, John; Greenwood, Arthur; and Keats, Alphonso, 171622
+
+Keats, John, and Clark. Wm. S., 50995
+
+Keith, Jeremiah, 97518, 170741, 196809, 209126, 243710
+
+Keith, T. H., 196909
+
+Keith, T. K., 170955
+
+Kelsey, D., 24939
+
+Kendall, George F., 101887
+
+Kern, Ferdinand, 479369
+
+Kilbourn, E. E., 59746
+
+Kjalman, H. N., 235783
+
+Knoch, Charles F., 183400
+
+Koch, William, 262298
+
+Koch, Friederich, and Brass, Robert, 138898, 145215
+
+
+Lamb, Isaac W., 109632
+
+Lamb, Thomas, 98390, 118728
+
+Lamb, Thomas, and Allen, John, 49421
+
+Lamson, Henry P., 79579
+
+Landfear, William R., 109427, 155193
+
+Langdon, Leander W., 13727, 39256
+
+Lathbury, E. T., 17744
+
+Lathrop, Lebbeus W., 139067
+
+Lathrop, Lebbeus W., and de Sanno, William P., 40446
+
+Lawrence, G. H., 290895
+
+Lazelle, W. H., 18915
+
+Leavitte, Albert, 171147
+
+Leavitt, Rufus, 30634
+
+Leavitt, Albert, and Drew, Henry L., 187874
+
+Legat, D. M., 218388
+
+Legg, Albert, and Weston, Charles W., 474840
+
+Leslie, A. M., 241808
+
+Leyden, Austin, 57157
+
+Lingley, John W., 368538
+
+Lipe, C. E., 229322
+
+Lisle, Myron C., 428171
+
+Ludeke, Waldemar, 275506, 300380
+
+Lyon, Lucius, 89489, 96713, 105820
+
+Lyon, W., 12066
+
+
+Macauley, F. A., 195939
+
+Mack, William A., 38592
+
+Mallary, G. H., 31897
+
+Mann, Charles, 33556
+
+Marble, F. E., 33439
+
+Marin, Charles, 179709
+
+Martin, W., Jr.; Dawson, D. R.; and Orchar, R., 206743
+
+Martine, Charles F., 104612
+
+Meyers, Nicholas, 99783
+
+Melhuish, R. M., 194610
+
+McCloskey, John, 55688, 161534
+
+McClure, A. T., 130385
+
+McKay, Gordon, and Blake, Lyman, 42916
+
+McKay, Gordon, 188809
+
+McLean, J. N., 88499
+
+McCombs, George F., 208407
+
+McCurdy, James S., 24395, 26234, 28097, 28993, 36256, 38931, 46303, 53743
+
+Miehling, Charles, 351992
+
+Miller, Charles, 9139, 26462
+
+Miller, Westley, 20763
+
+Miller, Lebbens B., and Diehl, Philipp, 229629, 274359
+
+Mills, Daniel, 96944, 265850, 313359
+
+Mooney, John H., 222298, 244470
+
+Moore, Charles, 21015
+
+Moreau, Eugene, 110669, 156171
+
+Morley, J. H., 228918, 236350
+
+Morrell, R. W.; Parkinson, T.; Parkinson, J., 202857
+
+Morrison, T. W., 216289
+
+Muegge, C. A., 332207
+
+Mueller, H., 28996
+
+Muir, William, 147152
+
+Murphy, E., 176880
+
+
+Nasch, Isidor, 104630
+
+Necker, Carl, 117101
+
+Nettleton, William H., and Raymond, Charles, 17049, 18350
+
+Newell, George F., 242470
+
+Newlove, Thomas, 27761
+
+Norton, B. F., 32782
+
+
+O'Neil, John, 137618
+
+Oram, Henry, 185952
+
+Osborne, J. H., 224219
+
+Otis, S. L., 221093
+
+Osterhout, James A., and Hallenbeck, Joseph P., 402610
+
+
+Page, Charles, 96343, 150479
+
+Paine, A. R., 27412
+
+Palmateer, William A., 187479
+
+Palmer, Aaron, 35252
+
+Palmer, C. H., 38450, 124694, 240758
+
+Palmer, Frank L., 185954
+
+Palmer, John H., 298228
+
+Parham, Charles, 109443, 135579
+
+Parker, Sidney, 19662, 24780
+
+Parks, Volney, 129981
+
+Parmenter, Charles O., 212495
+
+Payne, R. S., 30641
+
+Pearson, M. H., 199991
+
+Pearson, William, 26201
+
+Pearson, William, 166805, 172478
+
+Perry, James, 22148
+
+Piper, D. B., 56990
+
+Pipo, John A., 37550
+
+Pitt, James; Joseph; Edward; and William, 117203
+
+Planer, Louis, 43927
+
+Porter, D. A., 144864
+
+Porter, Alonzo, 99704
+
+Porter, D'Arcy, and Baker, George W., 174703
+
+Powell, Thomas, 442695
+
+Pratt, Samuel F., 16745, 22240
+
+
+Ragan, Daniel, 137321
+
+Ramsden, John W., 262116
+
+Randel, William, 192008
+
+Rayer, William A., and Lincoln, William S., 108827
+
+Raymond, Charles, 19612, 22220, 32785, 32925
+
+Reed, T. K., 60241, 62287
+
+Rehfuss, George, 40311, 51086, 61102, 73119
+
+Reynolds, O. S., 19793
+
+Rice, T. M., 176686
+
+Rice, Quartus, 31429
+
+Richards, Jean E., 252799
+
+Richardson, E. F., 145687
+
+Richardson, Everett P., 146948, 165506
+
+Roberts, William, 254696
+
+Robertson, T. J. W., 12015
+
+Robinson, Charles E., 110790
+
+Robinson, Frederick R., 7824
+
+Rodier, Peter, 59659
+
+Roper, S. H., 11531, 16026, 18522
+
+Rose, Israel M., 28814, 31628
+
+Rose, Reubin M., 170596
+
+Rosenthal, Sally Adolph, 353970
+
+Ross, Noble G., 31829
+
+Ross, J. G., and Miller, T. L., 138764
+
+Rowe, James, 26638, 27260
+
+Ruddick, H., 28538
+
+Rudolph, Bruno, 99481
+
+Rudolph, Ernst B. (deceased), Boulter, W. E. (administrator), 449927
+
+Russell, W. W., 86695
+
+
+Sage, William, 17717
+
+Sangster, Amos W., 21929
+
+Savage, Elliott, 19876
+
+Sawyer, Irvin P., and Alsop, T., 25918
+
+Sawyer, Sylvanus, and Esty, William, 174159
+
+Schmidt, Albert E., 162697
+
+Schwalback, M., 56805
+
+Scofield, Charles, 26059
+
+Scofield, Charles, and Rice, Clarke, 28610
+
+Scribner, Benjamin, Jr., 146483
+
+Secor, J. B., 253772
+
+Sedmihradsky, A. J., 196486
+
+Shaw, E., 230580
+
+Shaw, Philander, 11680
+
+Shaw, A. B., 37202
+
+Shaw, Henry L., 32007
+
+Shaw and Clark, 38246
+
+Sheffield, G. V., 135047
+
+Shorey, Samuel W., 148765
+
+Sibley, J. J., 42117
+
+Sidenberg, William, 112745, 115117
+
+Simmons, Frederick, 216902
+
+Simmons, A. G., and Scofield, C., 41790
+
+Singer, Isaac M., 8294, 10975, 12364, 13065, 13661, 13662, 14475, 60433, 61270
+
+Smalley, J., 27577
+
+Smith, DeWitt C., 45528
+
+Smith, E. H., 20739, 21089, 96160
+
+Smith, H. B., 12247
+
+Smith, J. M., 31334
+
+Smith, Lewis H., 31411, 32385
+
+Smith, John C., 34988
+
+Smith, James H., 148902
+
+Smith, Wilson H., 28785
+
+Smith, W. M., 225199
+
+Smith, William T., 99743
+
+Smyth, D. M., 126845, 234732
+
+Snediker, J. F., 222089
+
+Snyder, Watson, 22987
+
+Spencer, James C., 24061
+
+Spencer, James H., and Lamb, Thomas, 22137
+
+Speirs, John, 152813
+
+Spoehr, F., 101779
+
+Springer, William A., 128919, 142290, 147441
+
+Stackpole, G., and Applegate, J. H., 220314
+
+Stannard, M., 64184
+
+Stedman, G. W., 12074, 12573, 12798, 13856
+
+Stein, M. J., 81956, 113593
+
+Stevens, George, and Hendy, Joshua, 111488
+
+Steward, A., 207454
+
+Stewart, James, Jr., 141397, 432449
+
+Stewart, W. T., 205698
+
+Stoakes, J. W., 32456
+
+Sullivan, John J., 179232
+
+Sutton, William A., 29202
+
+Swartwout, H. L., 89357
+
+Swingle, A., 14207
+
+
+Taft, J. C., 547866
+
+Tapley, G. S., 25059
+
+Tarbox, John N., 49803
+
+Tate, William J., 113704
+
+Taylor, F. B., 146721
+
+Temple, John, 358088
+
+Thayer, Augustus, 172205
+
+Thimonnier, E., and Vernaz, C., 287592
+
+Thomas, Joseph, 330170
+
+Thomas, J., 236466
+
+Thompson, J., 27082
+
+Thompson, T. C., 9641
+
+Thompson, Rosewell, 34926, 42449
+
+Thurston, C. H., 233300
+
+Tittman, Alexander, 89093, 136792
+
+Toll, Charles F., 171193
+
+Tracy, Dwight, 30012
+
+Tracy, Dwight, and Hobbs, George, 40000
+
+Trip, J., 308711
+
+True, Cyrus B., 148336
+
+Tucker, R. D., 320898
+
+Tucker, Joseph C., 56641
+
+Turner, M. G., 312306
+
+Turner, S. S., 133553
+
+Tuttle, J. W., and Keith, T. K., 219782
+
+Thompson, George, 115255
+
+
+Uhlinger, W. P., 21224
+
+Upson, L. A., 176153
+
+
+Van Vechten, O. R., 302063
+
+Varicas, L., 204864
+
+Venner, O., 133814
+
+Veukler, W., 255916
+
+
+Wagener, Jeptha A., 40296
+
+Walker, William, 141407, 176101, 320099, 353720
+
+Walker and Bennet, 428548
+
+Ward, D. T., 12146
+
+Wardwell, Simon W., Jr., 128684, 141245, 148339
+
+Warth, Albin, 56646, 73064
+
+Washburn, T. S., 30031
+
+Waterbury, Enos, 79037
+
+Watson, William C., 14433, 18834
+
+Weber, Theodore A., 145823, 166236
+
+Webb, T., and Heartfield, C. H., 213537
+
+Webster, W., 182249, 402497
+
+Weitling, W., 37931, 45777
+
+Wells, W. W., 209843
+
+Wensley, James, 152055, 207230
+
+West, Elliott P., 117708, 130674, 138772
+
+West, H. B., and Willson, H. F., 20753
+
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, 420847
+
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, and Dial, Wilbur F., 328165
+
+Wheeler, Darius, and Carpenter, Lunan, 21100
+
+Whitehill, Robert, 166172
+
+Wickersham, William, 9679, 18068, 18069
+
+Wilder, M. G., 32323
+
+Wilkins, J. N., 36591
+
+Wilkinson, Charles E., 269251
+
+Willcox, Charles H., 42036, 43819, 44490, 44491, 218413, 230212, 246700
+
+Willcox, C. H., and Borton, S., 472094
+
+Willcox, C. H., and Carleton, C., 116521, 116523, 116783
+
+Wilson, Allen B., 7776, 8296, 9041
+
+Wiseman, Edmund, 228711
+
+Witherspoon, S. A., 176211
+
+Winter, William, 88936
+
+Wollenberg, H., and Priesner, J., 206848
+
+Wood, John, 185811
+
+Wood, Richard G., 207928
+
+Woodruff, George B., and Browning, George, 97014
+
+Woodward, E., 247285
+
+Woodward, F. G., 25782
+
+Woodward, Erastus, and Keith, Thomas K., 316927
+
+Wormald, William, and Dobson, Edmund, 169881
+
+
+Young, E. S., and Dimond, G. H., 206992
+
+
+General Index to Chapters 1-4
+
+
+Adams and Dodge, 9
+
+Aetna Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+American Buttonhole and Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Archbold, Thomas, 13
+
+Arrowsmith, George A., 11
+
+
+Bachelder, John, 22, 30, 34, 41, 42
+
+Baker, William E., 36 (_see_ Grover & Baker)
+
+Bartholf, A., 24, 40
+
+Bartlett Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Bartram & Fanton Manufacturing Company, 40
+
+Bean, Benjamin W., 13, 14, 15
+
+Blees Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Bliss, George, 24
+
+Blodgett and Lerow, 24, 26, 30
+
+Blodgett, Sherbrune C., 25
+
+Bradshaw, John A., 21, 22, 26, 27
+
+Brown, W. N., 50
+
+
+Centennial Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Chapman, Edward Walter, 7, 19
+
+Chapman, William, 7
+
+Clark, D. W., 47, 49
+
+Clark, Edward, 33, 34, 35
+
+Combination, Sewing-Machine, 23, 24, 38, 41-42, 47, 48
+
+Conant, Jotham S., 22
+
+Corliss, George H., 14, 15, 16
+
+
+Dale, John D., 54
+
+Davis, Ari, 19
+
+Davis Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Demorest, Madame, 53
+
+Dodge, Rev. John Adam, 9
+
+Domestic Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Duncan, John, 6, 19
+
+
+Elliptic Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Ellithorp, S. B., 51
+
+Ellithorp & Fox, 51
+
+Empire Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Fairy Sewing Machine, 53
+
+Family Sewing Machine (Singer), 35
+
+Finkle & Lyon Manufacturing Company, 40
+
+Fisher, George, 19
+
+Fisher, John, 15, 16
+
+Florence Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Folsom, J. G., 40
+
+
+Gibbons, James, 15
+
+Gibbs, James E. A., 45, 48
+
+Goddard, Rice & Co., 25
+
+Gold Medal Sewing Machine Company, 40, 53
+
+Goodspeed & Wyman Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Grasshopper, The, 35
+
+Greenough, John J., 13, 14
+
+Grover & Baker Sewing Machine Company, 24, 35, 37, 38, 40, 41
+
+Grover, William O., 35, 38
+
+
+Heberling, John, 54
+
+Henderson, James, 6
+
+Hendrick, Joseph, 49
+
+Heyer, W. D., 52
+
+Hook, Albert H., 50
+
+Howe, Amasa B., 24
+
+Howe, Elias, Jr., 11, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 28, 29, 33, 34, 41,
+  42, 138 (biographical sketch)
+
+Howe Machine Company (Elias), 25
+
+Howe Sewing Machine Company (Amasa, then B. P.), 24, 25, 40
+
+Hunt, Walter, 10, 11, 19, 33, 138 (biographical sketch)
+
+
+Jenny Lind (sewing machine), 30
+
+Johnson, Joseph B., 22
+
+
+Keystone Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Kline, A. P., 27
+
+Knowles, John, 9
+
+Krems, Balthasar, 7, 19
+
+Ladd & Webster Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Leavitt Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Lee, Edward, 27
+
+Lee, E. & Co., 27, 28
+
+Lerow, John A., 24, 25
+
+Little Gem, 53
+
+London Sewing Machine, 22
+
+Lye, Henry, 9
+
+
+McKay Sewing Machine Association, 40
+
+Madersperger, Josef, 8, 9, 12, 13
+
+Magnin, Jean Marie, 11, 22
+
+Mason, The Honorable Charles, 13
+
+Morey, Charles, 22
+
+Morey & Johnson, 23, 34, 42
+
+
+Newton, Edward, 13
+
+Nichols and Bliss, 24
+
+
+Palmer, Aaron, 52
+
+Parham Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Perry, James, 49
+
+Phelps, Orson C., 25, 30, 31
+
+Potter, Orlando B., 37, 38, 41
+
+
+Remington Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Robertson, T. J. W., 47
+
+Rodgers, James, 15
+
+
+Safford & Williams Makers, 22
+
+Saint, Thomas, 4, 5, 19
+
+Secor Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Shaw & Clark Sewing Machine Co., 40, 54
+
+Singer, Isaac Merritt, 23, 25, 30, 31, 33, 34, 35, 41, 142
+  (biographical sketch)
+
+Singer, I. M. Company, 13, 32, 34, 40
+
+Singer Manufacturing Co., 30, 40, 42
+
+Singer's Perpendicular Action Sewing Machine, 30, 31
+
+Stone, Thomas, 6
+
+Thimonnier, Barthelemy, 11, 19, 137 (biographical sketch)
+
+Thomas, William, 20
+
+Thompson, C. F., 40
+
+Turtleback Machine (Singer), 35
+
+
+Union Buttonhole Machine Company, 40
+
+
+Warren and Woodruff, 28
+
+Weatherill, Jacob, 37
+
+Weed Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Weisenthal, Charles F., 4, 19
+
+Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Company, 22, 29, 30, 40
+
+Wheeler, Wilson and Company, 24, 28, 41
+
+Wheeler, Nathaniel, 27, 28
+
+Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Company, 40, 46, 48
+
+Willcox, Charles, 46, 48
+
+Willcox, James, 46
+
+Wilson, Allen Benjamin, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 141 (biographical sketch).
+  (_See_ Wheeler & Wilson.)
+
+Wilson, Newton, 4
+
+Wilson, (W. G.), Sewing Machine Company, 40
+
+Woolridge, Keene, and Moore, 24
+
+
+Zieber, George, 30, 33
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+
+Table layouts have been changed to avoid very long line lengths.
+Footnotes have been moved to Chapter ends. Minor punctuation errors have
+been corrected without note. The following typographical errors have
+been corrected/noted:
+
+  Footnote 9 "Praktisches Wissen von der Naehmaschine."--was "Praktisches
+              wissen von der Naehmaschine."
+  p. 11      "a loop in the other"--was "a loop in the the other"
+  p. 19      "chainstitch, Thimonnier used"--was "chainstitch, Thimmonier
+              used"
+  p. 76      "known to be in existence is"--was "known to be in eixstence is"
+  p. 80      "7501-12500, 1873;"--was "7501-12500, 8173;"
+  p. 119     "shaped like an open [?] into which"--A letter or symbol appears
+              to be missing in the original between open and into.
+  p. 119     "181161-220318"--overlaps range of previous entry.
+  p. 130     "June 30, 1874 |152,618"--was "Jan. 30, 1874 |152,618"
+  p. 138     "Villefranche-sur-Saone"--was "Ville-franche-sur-Saone"
+  p. 145     "Praktisches Wissen von der Naehmaschine."--was "Praktisches
+              wissin von der Naehmaschine."
+  p. 153     "O'Neil, John, 137618"--was "O'Niel, John, 137618"
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Invention of the Sewing Machine, by
+Grace Rogers Cooper
+
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