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diff --git a/31814.txt b/31814.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f4c88b --- /dev/null +++ b/31814.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5559 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Literary New York, by Charles Hemstreet + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Literary New York + Its Landmarks and Associations + + +Author: Charles Hemstreet + + + +Release Date: March 29, 2010 [eBook #31814] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LITERARY NEW YORK*** + + +E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Linda Cantoni, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 31814-h.htm or 31814-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31814/31814-h/31814-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31814/31814-h.zip) + + + + + +LITERARY NEW YORK + +Its Landmarks and Associations + +by + +CHARLES HEMSTREET + +With 65 Illustrations + + + + + + + +[Illustration] + + +G.P. Putnam's Sons +New York and London +The Knickerbocker Press +1903 + +Copyright, 1903 +by +Charles Hemstreet + +Published, November, 1903 + +The Knickerbocker Press, New York + + + + +[Illustration: The "Half-Moon" on the Hudson--1609. + +From the painting by L.W. SEAVEY.] + + + + +Contents + + +CHAPTER PAGE + + I. WRITERS OF NEW AMSTERDAM 1 + + II. BEFORE THE REVOLUTION 25 + + III. THE POET OF THE REVOLUTION 45 + + IV. IN THE DAYS OF THOMAS PAINE 67 + + V. THE CITY THAT IRVING KNEW 87 + + VI. WITH PAULDING, DRAKE, AND HALLECK 106 + + VII. COOPER AND HIS FRIENDS 125 + + VIII. THOSE WHO GATHERED ABOUT POE 145 + + IX. AT THE CLOSE OF THE KNICKERBOCKER DAYS 167 + + X. HALF A CENTURY AGO 189 + + XI. TWO FAMOUS MEETING-PLACES 209 + + XII. SOME OF THE WRITERS OF TO-DAY 230 + + + + +Full-Page Illustrations + + + PAGE + +THE "HALF MOON" ON THE HUDSON, 1609 _Frontispiece_ + From the painting by L.W. Seavey. + +THE STADT HUYS 8 + +BROAD STREET, 1642 30 + +KING'S COLLEGE, ABOUT 1773 42 + +THE DEBTORS' PRISON 48 + +WILLIAM SMITH } +PETER STUYVESANT } +PHILIP FRENEAU } 60 +THOMAS PAINE } +JOEL BARLOW } + +THE FIRST TAMMANY WIGWAM, CORNER NASSAU AND + SPRUCE STREETS 70 + +MAP OF STREETS IN THE CITY OF NEW YORK IN 1827 76 + +JAMES KIRKE PAULDING } +PHILIP HONE } +WASHINGTON IRVING } 100 +JOSEPH RODMAN DRAKE } +FITZ-GREENE HALLECK } +J. FENIMORE COOPER } + +THE PARK THEATRE, PARK ROW, 1831 136 + +RICHARD HENRY STODDARD } +JOHN JAMES AUDUBON } +WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT } 150 +BAYARD TAYLOR } +EDGAR ALLAN POE } +ROBERT FULTON } + +POE'S COTTAGE AT FORDHAM 158 + From a drawing by C.W. Mielatz, by permission. + Copyright, 1899, by The Society of Iconophiles. + +THE BATTERY IN 1830 164 + From a drawing by C. Burton. + +THE APOLLO ROOMS IN 1830 170 + +VIEW OF OLD BUILDINGS IN WILLIAM STREET, + LOOKING TOWARDS MAIDEN LANE, 1800 182 + +W.D. HOWELLS } +J.G. HOLLAND } +RICHARD GRANT WHITE } 200 +BRANDER MATTHEWS } +WILLIAM WINTER } + From an engraving of the picture by J.H. Marble; + courtesy of W.E. Benjamin. + + + + +Illustrations in the Text + + + PAGE + +SEAL OF NEW AMSTERDAM 1 + +EARLY DUTCH HOUSES 2 + +THE WALL AND GATE 5 + +AN OLD FAMILY BIBLE 6 + +STUYVESANT'S "WHITEHALL" 8 + +ALONG THE STRAND 9 + +DE SILLE'S HOUSE 14 + +A WOMAN'S COSTUME, NEW AMSTERDAM 16 + +STUYVESANT'S BOUWERIE HOUSE 20 + +THE CHURCH IN THE FORT 21 + +CAPTAIN KIDD'S HOUSE 23 + +THE CHURCH CALLED TRINITY 34 + +"THE NEW-YORK GAZETTE" 39 + +THE COLLECT 48 + +THE BRITISH PRISON-SHIP 53 + +THE MIDDLE DUTCH CHURCH 55 + +FRAUNCES' TAVERN 62 + +BROAD STREET AND FEDERAL HALL 63 + +RICHMOND HILL 64 + +THE CORNER STONE OF THE PARK THEATRE 69 + +THE POST OFFICE, WILLIAM STREET 78 + +GOLDEN HILL INN 88 + +ST. GEORGE'S CHAPEL, BEEKMAN ST. 89 + +THE CITY HOTEL 101 + +THE HOUSE OF ASTOR, WHERE IRVING WROTE "ASTORIA" 102 + +WHERE IRVING LIVED, 17TH STREET AND IRVING PLACE 104 + +THE SHAKESPEARE TAVERN 120 + +THE JUMEL MANSION 123 + +WASHINGTON HALL 132 + +ON BLOOMINGDALE ROAD, NEAR 75TH STREET, IN POE'S TIME 147 + +THE HOUSE IN CARMINE STREET 149 + +WHERE POE WROTE "THE RAVEN" 157 + +MUSEUM AT THE NORTH END OF THE PARK, 1825 170 + +NIBLO'S GARDEN 171 + +AUDUBON'S HOME, 156TH STREET AND NORTH RIVER 193 + +CLEMENT C. MOORE'S HOUSE, CHELSEA 196 + +THE UNIVERSITY BUILDING 219 + +THE STUDIO BUILDING IN WEST 10TH STREET 221 + +53 EAST 20TH STREET 223 + +10 WEST STREET 232 + +WHERE "HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVES" WAS WRITTEN 237 + +146 MACDOUGAL STREET 239 + +108 WAVERLY PLACE 240 + +RICHARD GRANT WHITE'S HOME 241 + +WHERE RICHARD HENRY STODDARD DIED 243 + +WHERE THE AUTHORS' CLUB WAS ORGANIZED 244 + +HORACE GREELEY'S HOME 245 + +THE BEEKMAN MANSION 249 + +LAWRENCE HUTTON'S HOUSE 252 + +DE KAY'S HOUSE, LONDON TERRACE 254 + + + + +Literary New York + + + + +Chapter I + +Writers of New Amsterdam + + +[Illustration: Seal of New Amsterdam] + +There is a fashion nowadays of trimming the fronts of brick houses by +placing black bricks among the red in such a way as to form odd and +unique designs. It is an attractive way of doing, for it varies the +staid simplicity of the solid color. But for all it may seem original +and new, it is a style that had its beginning long, long ago, even in +the days when the stern Peter Stuyvesant governed with an iron hand +over the Dutch colony of fifteen hundred people, the town that was one +day to be New York, but which in his time was called New Amsterdam. + +[Illustration: Early Dutch Houses] + +It was a tiny town then; picturesque, too, for the houses were low, +irregular, with sloping roofs and gable ends to the street. They were +built of wood--that is, all except the church, the Stadt Huys, the +Governor's house, and some few dwellings of colonists who had brought +much wealth with them from Holland. These were for the most part of +stone. It was usual in them all--there were scarcely more than a +hundred,--whether of wood or stone, to have chimneys outside the +walls, thus making less the danger of fire, and if any part of the +house were of brick it was sure to be the chimney. All the brick had +then to be brought from Holland, so it was an expensive building +material and but sparingly used. + +At this time when Stuyvesant held full sway there were two industrious +colonists who held the idea that their short-cut to immense wealth lay +in the way of making bricks at home and supplying them to their fellow +colonists. So it came about, after long and slow deliberation, that +the first brickyard was started. To be sure the venturesome +fortune-hunters soon found that they were not to succeed all at once, +for, owing to their lack of knowledge, they ruined so many of their +bricks that the profits of the business were like to be consumed in +the black-burned material that they threw aside as worthless. + +But just at this time an odd thing happened. This was no less than +the appearance of a colonist who agreed to buy--at a low price to be +sure, but still to buy--all the black-burned and apparently useless +brick. The brickmakers wondered very much at this, and without doubt +thought the man a trifle unsound in his mind, but they agreed, and +very soon the buyer had built himself a house, which when it was +completed showed the burnt brick alternating with the red, prettily +decorating the front and making of it the most attractive dwelling in +the town. And at this they were filled with admiration and respect. +All the townspeople went to look at the house, and while looking +marvelled that Jacob Steendam could have thought out such a useful +plan, for he was not known as a practical man. Anything but that, for +was he not a poet? More than this, was he not the only poet in the +colony? And still more than this, he was the first poet of New +Amsterdam. + +[Illustration: The Wall and Gate] + +And in other ways, too, this first literary man of the colony was no +ordinary man. He had come to New Amsterdam in the employ of the owners +of the colony, the Dutch West India Company, and he worked in the +Company's warehouse. But he had a mind which fixed itself on things +above the beaver skins which it was his task to register before they +were sent across the sea. He was clerk by day, poet by night. It was +his custom while the townspeople slept, and they were early abed, to +wander about in the moonlight. He could walk the length and breadth of +the town with no great exertion, for it merely tipped the triangular +point of the island of Manhattan, enclosed on two sides by rivers and +on the land side by a wall of wood and soil which served to keep the +Indians out--a wall stretching straight across the island quite from +river to river, following the line that Wall Street was to take later +when Indians should be no more and when the town itself should have +burst its bounds. Here then the poet walked through the narrow +streets--winding ways that had their birth as Indian trails, passed +their infancy as cow-paths, and had so wound around marshy tracts and +deviated from their course that as streets they must of necessity be +irregular and vacillating. + +[Illustration: An Old Family Bible] + +While this was a time of advancement for the little colony, as you may +have guessed from the brickmaking venture, yet it was certainly not a +literary period. The colonists who had left their homes in Holland to +seek their fortunes in a new world had found that Fortune overseas +frowned upon them as often as she smiled, and while she had raised the +hopes of some, the many were struggling for bare existence. There was +no book-making; indeed there were few books of any sort, and reading +meant conning over Bibles, prayer-books, psalm-books, and Testaments +which had been brought across the ocean. These were stoutly bound +volumes, many of them heirlooms, their pages bearing the marks of +patient and persistent handling. + +[Illustration: Stuyvesant's "Whitehall"] + +The poet Steendam dreamed and thought out many a verse as he stood on +the bridge that spanned the canal leading from the bay to the Sheep +Pasture,--the canal that was one day to be buried deep beneath Broad +Street. He must have walked beneath the wall of the weak little fort +at the water's edge, passed Governor Stuyvesant's new home that was +called Whitehall, and that was to pass away, leaving its name to the +road leading to it, which the road was still to bear more than two +hundred and fifty years later. And perhaps he went on along the strand +to the Stadt Huys (for it was only a few steps farther along the +waterside), the stone house that "William the Testy" had built as a +tavern and that in the first poet's day had become the first City Hall +of New Amsterdam. And he sometimes stood beside the first graveyard, +near the plaine that was to become the Bowling Green, and so on to +the city wall, with its gates locked while the townsmen slept. + +[Illustration: THE STADT HUYS.] + +[Illustration: Along the Strand] + +Though the streets are to-day much changed from those which the poet +walked alone save for the company of his Muse, you can walk them even +now, until you come to a thoroughfare noticeable because it is so +short and winding, tucked away at the edge of the city's business +section. And if you do walk into Stone Street, you must of necessity +come to a bend from which both ends of the street curve out of sight, +while you stand in a kind of huge well, closed in by iron-shuttered +warehouses. Here in this bend you are standing on what was the garden +of Jacob Steendam's checker-fronted house. In his day it was Hoogh +Street, though in a few years it was to take its present name when it +was the first street to be paved with stone. + +In those nightly walks through the quiet streets of the sleeping town, +the poet Steendam found inspiration for his verses--the first verses +ever penned in the colony, and called variously _The Praise of New +Netherland_, _The Complaint of New Amsterdam_, _The Thistle Finch_, +and others. Although these suggested true affection for the land of +his adoption, it was the home of his youth and the never-fading +remembrance of his childhood's days that haunted him and called to +him. And at last, one day after thirteen years, the sight of a ship +preparing to sail for Holland so overcame him that almost within the +hour he had bidden farewell and had sailed with her, leaving to the +townspeople his memory and his verse. + +But by the time of his going there had come forward another poet to +take his place, by name Nicasius De Sille. There was a vast difference +between the first poet and the second. Steendam was a poor man, and in +his verses sought always to touch those who had never grasped the +skirts of fleeting Fortune. The second was a man of wealth, a kind of +"society poet." For even in that small circle, in the first +half-century of its existence, there were marked differences in +wealth, birth, and reputation, which were to develop with the passing +years into the distinctions of to-day. + +The aristocracy of those times centred about the family of the Dutch +Governor, Peter Stuyvesant. Mrs. Stuyvesant had been, before her +marriage, Judith Bayard, the daughter of a Paris divine. Mrs. Bayard, +the sister of Peter Stuyvesant, had married Mrs. Stuyvesant's brother, +and when left a widow with three infant sons she followed her brother +when he became Governor of New Netherland. These two women had lived +in ease and refinement, and in coming to the colony well knew that +there they would find a life of comparative hardship. Yet they came +willingly enough, following husband and brother, and brought with them +an atmosphere of intellectual and social culture that left its impress +for all time. By the time Steendam returned to his boyhood home, a few +ambitious folk had gathered themselves about the Stuyvesants. There +was Oloff Van Cortlandt, a thriving merchant and one of the richest +men in New Netherland; there were Hendrick Kip and his three sons; +there were Dr. La Montagne and his daughters, and Govert Loockermans, +and others. + +It was to this well-to-do-set that Nicasius De Sille belonged, and +after the going of Steendam he became the only literary man in the +colony. He also had come over in the service of the Dutch West India +Company, but in a far different capacity from Steendam. For he came, +when Stuyvesant's rule had run eight years of its course, as a +Councillor in the provincial government, and his life was thenceforth +closely connected with that of the Governor. He came, heralded as a +statesman, as a lawyer, as a man of deep learning, as a man of wealth. +But with not one word of his being a poet--yet only by reason of his +poems has his name lived. He built for himself a house beside the +little canal where Steendam walked in the night, just where now +Exchange Street touches Broad, and here, with his two motherless +daughters and one son, he lived more luxuriously than had yet been +seen. For he had brought with him from Holland heavy plate of rich +design, more plate than was in all the town beside; solid, carved +furniture and rare hangings; and on winter nights his guests sat down +to a table laden with blue and white china ornamented with strange +Chinese pictures, and drank their tea, alternately biting lumps of +sugar, from the tiniest china cups, and altogether were entertained +with all the pomp and circumstance he had known in The Hague. At these +evening entertainments De Sille read his poems in such perfect style +as to win much applause, and doubtless it was the reading of these, as +well as his courtly manner and great wealth, that very soon won for +him the love of fair Tryntie Croegers. + +[Illustration: De Sille's House] + +And then one day there was a grand gathering in the stone church +inside the fort--on the wedding-day of Nicasius De Sille and Mistress +Tryntie Croegers. Into the church went the friends: women, some with +petticoats of red cloth, some with skirts of blue or purple silk set +off with rare lace, all with silken hoods over much befrizzled hair, +and their fingers covered with glittering rings, and with great +lockets of gold on their bosoms. Each had a Bible fastened to her +girdle by links of gold--not the plain, strongly bound Bibles used by +Jacob Steendam and his friends, but elaborately wrought in silver, +with golden clasps. The men were just as gaily dressed as the women, +for they wore long coats adorned with shining buttons and pockets +trimmed with lace, and colored waistcoats, knee-breeches of velvet, +silk stockings, and low shoes set off by silver buckles. Outside the +fort among the townspeople of lower degree it was, too, quite a +holiday. Men with coarse frocks and leather aprons, women in homespun +gowns, turbaned negresses, swarthy negro slaves, dusky Indians,--all +made merry in their several ways as though glad of an excuse. And the +motley throng outside the fort and the elegant gathering within all +made way for the wrinkled little bell-ringer, who carried the cushions +from the Stadt Huys for the burgomasters and the schepens, who +insisted on every bit of their dignity, come what would, on this day +or on any other. So, with those inside the church looking on in +silence and the people outside keeping up an incessant din and +clatter, the poet of the rich was married to Tryntie Croegers by the +good Dominie Megapolensis. + +[Illustration: A Woman's Costume + +New Amsterdam] + +But for all such a fair starting off this married life had an untimely +ending. Though Nicasius De Sille might win a wife by his poetry, it +seemed that he could not hold one. There were no poetic readings in +the house by the canal after the marriage, and the literature of the +town which had started out so bravely fell into a decline with the +languishing of De Sille's connubial bliss. Before the third year had +gone by, a commission of their friends was trying to tell the pair how +happy their lives should have been. But all the reasoning had no +effect, and the friends were forced to give it up and submit to a +decision, in very quaint wording, the tenor of which was that it was +acknowledged that there was no love between the two, and that the only +recommendation that could be made was that the property should be +divided equally and they go their several ways,--which they did. But +the earlier readings of poetry had sown the seed of still another +marriage. For at those readings, Anna, the youngest daughter of the +poet, had sat by her father's side, and young Hendrick Kip had sat by +his father's side, and about the time the commission of friends was +announcing its failure to patch up matters, Anna De Sille and Hendrick +Kip, all undismayed by the bad example, had decided to sit side by +side through the remainder of their lives. + +[Illustration: Stuyvesant's Bouwerie House] + +All this time De Sille was growing more and more rich, when there +came a great change. Of a sudden one day the English ship sailed into +the bay, and the English soldiers took possession of the town, and the +rule of the Dutch in New Amsterdam had passed, and the English became +governors of their province of New York. Then Stuyvesant went to live +in a little settlement he had built up and called Bouwerie Village, +which was far out on the Bouwerie Road, and Nicasius De Sille settled +down as a merchant, and little more was heard of him as a poet. + +It was a simple enough thing to rename the town and call it after the +brother of an English king, but that made but little change in the +customs of the people. For many a long year it was to remain the +quaint, slow-going town it had been. Certainly no English brain or +hand added to the literature of this time, and the only bit of writing +which survives is the work of a Dutch minister. + +In the eighteenth year after the coming of the English, when it had +come to be 1682, Dominie Henricus Selyns came to New York from +Holland. He had lived four years in the town when it was New +Amsterdam, and we have his own words for it that he found the +settlement scarcely altered a whit from the time he left. And now he +took charge of the little church in the fort, the same church where +Nicasius De Sille was married with such pomp. His congregation was +made up of much the same kind of people as of old, and perhaps it was +just as well, since he still preached in the Dutch language. The poems +he wrote, all in the Dutch language, were read as piously as were the +Bibles, and were quite at one with them in religious feeling. No one +then imagined that a day would come when a critic might hint that the +good Dominie's contributions to the early literature of New York might +be just a shade gloomy and despairing in their views of the +fearfulness of the after-life. + +[Illustration: The Church in the Fort] + +For quite twenty years the good Dominie lived to aid in fostering the +infant literature of infant New York, living a life as quiet and as +regular as any Dutch colonist could have demanded. On a Sunday morning +he preached in the church in the fort the long, heavy sermons that his +people loved. In the afternoon he rode away on the highway that led +into the country, past the Collect Pond, over the Kissing Bridge at +the Fresh Water, on to the stretch that was to grow into the Bowery, +through the forest till he came to the few clustering houses of the +Bouwerie Village, where Stuyvesant had spent his old age. In the +village church he preached of an afternoon,--the church which +Stuyvesant had built and beside which he was buried,--the church which +was to stand another hundred years and which was then to give way to a +house of worship to be called St. Mark's, which, in turn, two +centuries and more after Stuyvesant's day, was still to be found +standing in the core of a great metropolis. + +[Illustration: Capt. Kidd's House] + +Dominie Selyns lived long enough to see many changes. He lived to see +a Dutch prince become England's king; he lived to see New York rent +asunder through the overzealousness of one Jacob Leisler, who feared +lest the town should not recognize a king of Dutch blood; he lived to +see Lord Bellomont made Governor and riding through the streets in a +coach the gorgeousness of which astounded all; he lived to see +Captain William Kidd sail out of the harbor in the ship _Adventure +Galley_, with never a thought that a few years more would see him +executed as a pirate. And when Dominie Selyns died, bequeathing his +poems to swell the scanty literature of his times, the era of the +Dutch had well-nigh ended. + + + + +Chapter II + +Before the Revolution + + +When William Bradford came to New York, in 1693, the town had grown so +large that it must needs have a night-watch--four men who each carried +a lantern, and who, strolling through the quiet streets, proclaimed at +the start of each hour that the weather was fair, or that the weather +was foul, and told beside that all was as well as it should be in +those nightly hours. More than this, the town went a step farther +towards the making of a metropolis, and lit the streets by night +(whether for the benefit of the night-watch or for some other the +records say not), by placing on a pole projecting from each seventh +house a lantern with a candle in it. + +Pilgrims who year after year seek out the shrines that are connected +in one way or another with the literature of the city have worn a path +plain to be seen along the stone pavement about Trinity Church, a path +leading straight to a bit of greensward where, beside a gravel walk, +is the tomb of William Bradford. Although Bradford made slight +pretence of being a man of letters, he is remembered as one who loved +to foster literature. And, there being little enough left to recall +the writings of the seventeenth century, this tombstone has its many +visitors. The pilgrims who find their way to it have but half +completed their journey. If they leave the churchyard and stray on, +not going by way of crowded Wall Street, which would be the direct +course, but taking one of the more winding and narrow streets to the +south, they will come after a time to a thoroughfare where the +structure of the Elevated Road forms a bridge to convey heavy trains +that hurry past, stirring the air with constant vibration. In this +street, dark even when the sun shines brightest, is another reminder +of William Bradford,--a tablet in form, but quite as much a tombstone +as the other; for its brazen letters tell in true epitaph how he lived +here two hundred years gone by, and how here on this spot he set up +the first printing-press in the colony, and that here he did the +public printing, as well as such books and psalms, tracts and +almanacs, and such like things as he had time for. These were all +queer, rough-lettered, black-lined pamphlets, and none was more quaint +than John Clapp's _Almanac_, the first which came from the press and +the first written in the city. + +John Clapp had time without end to write this almanac, and yet no one +ever knew just when he did it. He was the keeper of the inn in the +Bouwerie Village, and, having more idle moments than busy ones, he +spent most of his time on the broad stoop of the inn, pipe in mouth, +looking first at the house where Peter Stuyvesant had lived, then at +the dusty road leading away up country towards the King's Bridge in +one direction, and down country towards the town. But write it he did, +and Bradford printed it, and John Clapp was shrewd enough to advertise +himself well by writing in his Table of Contents concerning his +tavern: + + It is two miles from the city, and is generally the baiting + place where gentlemen take leave of their friends, and where + a parting glass or two of generous wine + + If well applied makes dull horses feel + One spur in the head is worth two in the heel. + +Again, in a Chronological Table, under the June date, he made the +interesting announcement: + + The 24th of this month is celebrated the feast of St. John + the Baptist, in commemoration of which (and to keep up a + happy union and lasting friendship by the sweet harmony of + good society) a feast is held by the _Johns_ of this city, + at John Clapp's in the Bouwerie, where any gentleman whose + name is John may find a hearty welcome to join in concert + with his namesakes. + +In response to this there came such a large gathering as would make it +seem that all the townsmen had been baptized by one name. + +It was by an odd slip that the only important book planned and partly +written in these last years of the seventeenth century was not printed +by Bradford. More than once had the Episcopal minister, the Rev. John +Miller, talked with this first printer of his plan for a history of +the colony which he was then writing. This would have been carried +out, beyond all doubt, if the clergyman had not just then decided to +go to England to settle some troublesome Church matters, taking his +history with him. As ill-fortune would have it, the ship in which he +sailed was captured by the French,--France then being at war with +England,--and rather than have the slightest bit of information +conveyed to the enemy through his means, the clergyman tossed the +precious pages into the sea. In the course of time, released by the +French, he reached England, and there rewrote the history from memory, +and drew for it a quaint map of the town as he had known it. Having +done so much he died, leaving his work to lie for more than a century +and a quarter unpublished, until, in 1843, a London bookseller put it +into print. The original, being sold again passed through several +hands until it finally found a resting-place in the British Museum, +where it is now preserved. + +[Illustration: BROAD STREET, 1642.] + +The early days of the eighteenth century saw the fitting out of the +first library to which the townsmen had general access--a library that +in the next fifty years was to change from the private property of the +Rev. John Sharpe into the Corporation Library, and later be chartered +as the Society Library, under which title it was to live to grow +richer and richer in literary treasures until it came to be called the +oldest library in America in the days when the city had grown far +beyond any bounds then thought of. In the first days of its existence, +the library occupied tiny quarters, quite large enough for all the +books it contained, in a room in the City Hall. This was not in the +old Stadt Huys of the Dutch by the waterside, for that was gone now, +but in a pretentious building facing the "broad street" that had been +made by the filling up of the Heere Graft of old. Other buildings +were set up at this same time. There was the new French Huguenot +church which had been in Petticoat Lane and was now rebuilt in the +newly laid-out street below the Maiden's Lane, called Pine Street from +the pine-trees there. Then there was the church called Trinity. Though +it, too, was a new church, the ground on which it stood had a history +that harked back to the very earliest Dutch times. For it was upon the +lower edge of the Annetje Jans Farm, the strip of land above the city +to the west which had been given to the husband of Annetje Jans far +back in the year 1635; that had been linked with another farm by +Governor Lovelace to make the Duke's Farm; and had become the King's +Farm when the duke after whom it was named became a king. And then, it +having become the Queen's Farm (and Queen Anne graciously presenting +it in the year 1703 to Trinity Church for all time), it took the last +name that it was to have and became the Church Farm--a name that was +to cling to it after every vestige of country green had disappeared +from its surface, and when houses had been set upon it as thick as the +stalks of grain that once ripened upon its rolling bosom. + +[Illustration: "The Church called Trinity"] + +The library in the City Hall was yet quite a new thing, the church +called Trinity had stood on the historic ground but a few years, the +French church was barely completed, and the town was so sprightly and +full of activity that 't is small wonder Madame Sarah Knight, coming +at such a time, should find much to wonder at and to write about. Her +coming marks another advance in literary New York, for Madame Knight +was a bookish woman come from far-off Boston town, and was a teacher +well versed in the "art of composition." She found all quite different +as compared with her own Massachusetts, where her father had been +sentenced to stand for two hours in the stocks, his conduct having +been found "lewd and unseemly" when, on a Sabbath day, after an +absence of three years, he had kissed his wife when she met him at his +own door-step! No wonder Madame Knight thought New York society quite +gay and reckless, for at this time Lord Cornbury governed, and he had +an odd fancy for wearing women's clothing indoors for his own +delectation and to the amusement of the citizens as he walked the +walls of the fort. Though Madame Knight met many persons of quality +and witnessed many interesting scenes, had her visit in the city been +extended, say for half a dozen years, until the coming of Governor +Robert Hunter, she would have met a man truly in full accord with her +ideas and tastes. + +Had Governor Hunter's hopes been fulfilled there might have been a far +different writing of literary history. He came from England in the +summer of 1710, from the midst of a busy and troublous life, seeing +before him in imagination quiet and peaceful years with the wife he +cherished, and a career which should be helped on by his +correspondence with his English friends, Dean Swift, Richard Steele, +Joseph Addison, and some others. It would be an ideal life; he had +planned it well. But the repose he sought he scarce for an hour +realized. Undreamed-of turmoil kept him in a whirl of unsettledness. +And though the wife of his heart stood by his side, and he gained +comfort from knowing that nothing could turn her away, differences +with the Government at home, which refused to reimburse him for money +spent; wrangling with the Assembly, which refused money for the +conduct of affairs in the colony; the uprising of negro slaves; the +turbulent actions of unfriendly Indians--these things and others left +him never an hour for the work he had planned. It was a note of +despair that he sounded when he wrote to Swift across the sea: + + This is the finest air to live upon in the universe, and if + our trees and birds could speak and our Assemblymen be + silent, the finest conversation also. The soil bears all + things, but not for me.... In a word, and to be serious, I + have spent my time here in such torment and vexation that + nothing hereafter in life can ever make amends for it. + +Still, for all this, he found time for some writing, especially for a +play, the one called _Androborus_--The Man-eater,--in which he wrote +in such a bantering, humorous, satirical manner of the colonial +officers as to set the town going with laughter. From this on he got +along better and the people came to appreciate their Governor. +Gradually there centred about the house in the fort a "Court Circle," +where the Lady Hunter shone brightly, not alone because she was the +first lady of the province, nor because her husband was Governor and a +writer, but because others came to know her as a loving, lovely, and +lovable woman. But when it looked as though the Governor was to have +at last the ease and rest and quiet he had hoped for from the +beginning, Lady Hunter died! This was the worst that could happen to +Robert Hunter. There was nothing more for him to live and struggle +for, he said. He resigned his office and, before many years, his life. + +At this time of the "Court Circle," a mild, quiet man, the son of a +Presbyterian minister, came from Philadelphia to visit the Governor. +And no one could foresee that this Cadwallader Colden would remain +during the rest of his life and be, for almost half a century, the +leader of literary New York. + +Colden came to be a friend of William Bradford, as he had been of +Hunter, and watched his work with deep interest. He often advised +Bradford when that first printer of New York published the _New York +Gazette_, in 1725, the first newspaper in the city, and upheld him a +few years later when the second newspaper was issued by Bradford's old +apprentice boy, Peter Zenger, who had become his rival. + +In the first ten years that Colden lived in New York he wrote +diligently, and published his _History of the Five Nations_, an +exhaustive work telling of the powerful Indian tribes, of their forms +of government, and their wars. This was one of the earliest books of +importance, and he was planning a second part of this same history +when, in the year 1732, Cosby came to be Governor. In after years +Colden told how his studies and his writings were interrupted by the +coming of the new and lively Governor. + +[Illustration: + +Numb. 425 + +THE + +New-York Gazette, + +From _December_ 10, to Monday, _December_ 17, 1733.] + +And now it seemed as though there were to be dissensions in the city. +There was trouble with the Governor; trouble with Peter Zenger, who +wished to print what the king's representatives did not want printed; +trouble about who should be Chief Justice. But when these were +straightened out there began a season of festivity, and during one +entire winter there were entertainments at which the culture, the +refinement, and the wit of the province gathered. These were days of +splendor, when women wore gay brocades and arranged their hair in a +variety of bewildering, towering, and fantastic shapes; when wide +skirts were in the heyday of their fashion; when tight-lacing was in +vogue; when men wore enormous wigs, and attired themselves in many +colors, adorning themselves with buttons of silver--large, and +decorated with the initials of the wearer. + +In the height of this brilliant season there came from England, to +visit the Governor's family, Lord Augustus Fitzroy, son of that Duke +of Grafton who was Chamberlain to King George II. He was received with +all the ceremony due to his rank. The Mayor, the Recorder, and some +other city officials met, and presented to him the freedom of the city +in a box of burnished gold. Soon Lord Augustus had made himself so +vastly agreeable to one of the daughters of Governor Cosby that there +was talk of a marriage. But everybody agreed that this could not be, +for the match was beneath him, according to the ideas of English +society. Still, the young man was determined, the young woman was +inclined, and the Governor's wife was a strategist. So one mild +summer's night the young nobleman, resplendent in gay clothes, with a +couple of his friends, assisted Dominie Campbell over the fort wall, +where they found the young woman waiting, and there in the silence and +the darkness the marriage occurred. There was some stern talk of what +ought to be done to Dominie Campbell, and wonderment as to what the +Duke of Grafton would say, but nothing serious came of it, although +the romantic wedding was the talk of the town for many a year. + +Cadwallader Colden lived down by the waterside near the fort wall over +which Dominie Campbell was dragged. And in his house there, when +Cosby's rule quieted down, Colden got to his studies again. He lived +until the days of the Revolution were at hand; lived to exercise the +duties of Governor in a stormy period; lived to see the town rent by +turmoil and political rancor; lived to be hated by many people for +loyalty to a king they would no longer serve. Quite to the end of +his life he remained a leader, and, dying, left writings on history, +medicine, geology, botany, metaphysics, and other learned subjects. + +[Illustration: KING'S COLLEGE, ABOUT 1773.] + +It was in this midway time between the days of Cosby and the period of +the Revolution that William Smith lived and wrote. Not so marked a +figure in literature as Colden, nor so profound a student; not one to +leave so strong and lasting an imprint, but well to be remembered as a +writer whose birthplace was New York. Born in the year after Colden +published his _History of the Five Nations_, he attained a high place +as a lawyer, giving his attention to the political and legal records. +When still a young man he was one of those who spoke at the ceremony +of the laying of the corner-stone of King's College--which was to be +in existence a century and a half later as Columbia University. For +many years he lived close by Colden and intercourse would have led to +mutual good, but the two were not friendly after Smith wrote a history +of the city and Colden criticised it. + +Although William Smith was one of the earliest writers to own New York +as his birthplace, he would not join in a revolt against the king whom +he had served all his life. So he accepted the post of Chief Justice +of Canada, leaving others to become the writers of the Revolution. + + + + +Chapter III + +The Poet of the Revolution + + +In the far down-town business section of New York, there is a street +so short that you can walk its entire length in ten minutes or less +time. It leads from the park where the City Hall is, straight to the +river. Beginning at the tall buildings where the newspapers have their +homes, it continues along between the warehouses of leather merchants +and the solid stonework of the bridge that crosses from the Manhattan +to the Brooklyn shore; leads to the open space at the top of Cherry +Hill, then makes a steep descent as though about to plunge deep into +the river. For much of its length it is a constant scene of noise and +bustle and disorder--that is, in the daylight hours. At night, when +it is silent and deserted, it suggests the time, far back in the year +1678, when it was a country lane some distance from the city, a +by-path leading from the house of Jacob Leisler to the river. It was +Frankfort Lane then, Leisler calling it so as a reminder of the German +town of his birth. Now it has become Frankfort Street. Leisler's +garden was close upon the spot where the street touches the parkside, +and here Leisler was executed in 1691, a martyr to the cause of +constitutional liberty. + +The lane was beginning to assume the proportions of a street in the +year 1752, when there lived in one of the dainty houses that fronted +it the family of Pierre Freneau, the last of a long line of Huguenots. +There were Freneaus who fought with the Huguenots at La Rochelle, and +there were Freneaus still living in that ancient city when the +revocation of the Edict of Nantes forced so many to strange lands. The +Freneau family, refugees from their native land, prospered in America, +and a son born in the Frankfort Street house in this year 1752 gave +historic interest to the name. The boy was christened Philip, and came +to be called the Poet of the Revolution. + +Philip Freneau struggled through babyhood in Frankfort Street, and +just as he was able to walk was whisked away to a farm in New Jersey, +where his father had built a house, calling it Mount Pleasant after +the old homestead in La Rochelle. + +Quite within the throw of a stone of Frankfort Street, and in the very +year of Philip Freneau's birth, was born Eliza Schuyler, who with the +passing of years was to marry and bear the name of Eliza Bleecker and +the title of the first poetess of New York. + +[Illustration: The Collect] + +In her childhood, the future poetess had a favorite walk over the bit +of rolling ground to the south of Frankfort Street, the spot called +Golden Hill, which a few years later was to be trampled by many +soldiers, where the tall grass was to be reddened by the blood of +patriots--the first blood shed in the Revolution. She strolled hand in +hand with her father over the green Common, which was to become the +City Hall Park. Sometimes, in the mid-summer, she was taken on +excursions to the shores of a pleasant lake, called the Collect, +quite a journey from the city. It was there that John Fitch's boat +sailed years before Fulton's successful boat was launched into the +Hudson. When the city outgrew its early bounds, the lake was drained +and solid ground made, and the Tombs Prison rose in gloomy majesty +where the deep waters had been. + +[Illustration: THE DEBTORS' PRISON.] + +Eliza Schuyler preserved a lively memory of playing about a little +square frame building on the Common, and though she never spoke of it +by name it was the first Poor House of the city. She wrote, too, of a +certain day when she went to the Common with her father--he was an +important man that day and served on a committee--to see laid the +first stone of another building. It was only a Debtors' Prison, but it +was looked upon as the most beautiful structure in the city for many a +day. For it was in the main patterned after the temple of Diana of +Ephesus. The townsmen of those early days admired the building, and +would have grieved if they could have foreseen that the day would come +when city officials would forget that the old prison had been copied +from so perfect a model; would forget that it had been a military +prison when the British held possession of the city; would forget that +many a brave officer of the Continental Army and many a true patriot +soldier had passed bitter days there, and dying had left memories of +sentiment and poetry and historic interest hovering about the old +place. + +Still, though it could not be foretold, the day did come when it was +no longer a prison but had become the Hall of Records, when it was +called an ugly and unsightly structure which obstructed the view of +newer and taller ones--buildings that Tammany architects considered +the perfection of beauty perhaps on account of their costliness. So it +must be torn down. + +At the age between girlhood and womanhood, Eliza Schuyler left New +York to live in the village of Tomhannock, and when news of her again +reached her friends in the city she was the wife of John J. Bleecker. +Only twice after that did she revisit the scenes of her early life, +and it was not until her death that the writings of this first poetess +of New York became well known and popular. + +The short and peaceful life of Eliza Bleecker was nearing an end +before--his college days being over--Philip Freneau again trod the +streets of New York. Already his tireless pen was at work, the pen +that was to aid the cause of the Revolution. But when it looked to him +as though his country would not be able to throw off the kingly yoke, +he decided on a journey. He passed two years in the West Indies +writing of the _Beauties of Santa Cruz_ and the _House of Night_. Then +a longing for the home from which he received scant word came upon +him. He started homeward, only to be lured from his course by the +beauties of Bermuda, where he fell in love with the Governor's +daughter, remembered in his verse as the "Fair Amanda." He was still +writing, lolling his time away beneath tropical skies, when tardy news +came that the colonies had declared themselves free. Swiftly he threw +off the languor of repose, of love, of romance, and returned home. +The charm of the sea life was on him then, so taking out letters of +reprisal from the Continental Congress, Freneau the poet sailed over +the sea, actively aiding his country's cause by capturing British +merchantmen and sinking British ships for a year, until in 1780 he +had a ship of his own built. But on her first voyage disaster befell +her, and almost within sight of land the _Aurora_ was captured. When +Philip Freneau next saw New York it was as a prisoner on the hulk +_Scorpion_, as she lay anchored alongside another notorious +prison-ship, the _Jersey_, close by the Battery shore. + +There never was such an energetic prisoner. Each moment was employed +for his country, if not with his sword at least with his pen, which +was quite as powerful a weapon. + +[Illustration: The British Prison-Ship] + +In those days of wretched misery and suffering, within view of the +city by day, in the noisome ship's hold by night, Freneau thought out +his best-remembered poem, _The British Prison-Ship_ and many another +line which in the later days of the Revolution was to rouse American +feeling; verse that was to be distributed to the American soldiers, to +be read by them on the march and by the light of the camp-fires; lines +that were to commemorate the victories and the heroism of the soldiers +of the Revolution; lines ridiculing each separate act of the British. + +New York, in this time that the poet Freneau lay a prisoner, was not +as it had been in his college days. The battle of Long Island had been +fought, and Washington and his army had been driven from New York. And +on the night of the British entry a great fire had started in the +lower part of the city, swept away the house where Bradford's press +had been, leaped across Broadway and laid Trinity Church a mass of +ruins scattered over the churchyard where Freneau's father lay buried. + +The British soldiers were quartered in the public buildings; the +British officers had taken possession of the houses deserted by +wealthy patriots; the Middle Dutch Church, which had been the +architectural pride of the city, had become a riding school for +troopers. + +[Illustration: The Middle Dutch Church] + +There was a red-painted wooden building in John Street, a few feet +from Broadway, the only theatre in the city. The actors had closed it, +and fled at the coming of the British. But the house was open again +now, and the British officers played at mimic war between the +intervals of real battles. + +No one threw himself more heartily into these performances than Major +John Andre, who was so soon to give up his life for his country. He +even wrote some of the speeches used by the actors, and one of the +poems he wrote for Rivington's _Gazetteer_ was printed while he was +away on his last mission, conferring with Benedict Arnold on the banks +of the Hudson. + +After the treason was discovered, Arnold sought a safe retreat within +the British lines at New York, and lived for a time in a solid, +picturesque little house by the Bowling Green. It stood on a grassy +slope that stretched down to the water's edge a few boat lengths from +where the _Scorpion_ lay with the poet prisoner on board. + +There was a picket fence, painted white, on one side of the green +slope, and Sergeant John Champe once hid his men behind it to carry +off Arnold when he should take his nightly walk by the waterside, an +attempt that failed through Arnold's changing his quarters on the +selfsame day. + +When the Revolution was over, Freneau was again in New York, which +slowly recovered from the ravages of war. Hanover Square was a +favorite haunt of his. He has left the record that he loved to linger +in that open space, where might be seen a mingling of business and +home life. Freneau liked it, for there books were printed and sold, +and, too, it was the "Newspaper Row" of the town. This open space had +been at first Van Brugh Street, taking its name from Johannes +Pietersen Van Brugh, a wealthy Hollander whose home faced the square +for close upon half a century. It bore his name until in 1714, when +with the accession of George I. of Hanover it took the name of Hanover +Square. + +In a house facing this square, Bradford printed the first newspaper, +and though in Freneau's time it was still standing, a more stately +building was to take its place and bear a tablet telling of the old +one. It was here that the other early newspapers came into existence: +Parker's _Weekly Post-Boy_, in 1742; Weyman's _New York Gazette_, in +1759; Holt's _New York Journal_, in 1766. It was here, too, that was +prominently displayed the "Sign of the Bible and Crown," before the +house of Hugh Gaine. Freneau had flayed this man in his verse many a +time. + +Gaine was an Irishman who published the _New York Mercury_, and +changed his politics to whichever side was uppermost--Whig to-day, +Tory to-morrow. He printed Freneau's satires against Great Britain as +a Whig, and then as a Tory fell under the power of Freneau's pen, for +Freneau hated inconstancy quite as much as he did Tory principles. + +Then there was close at hand the home of Rivington's _New York +Gazetteer_. This Rivington, failing as a bookseller in London, +planted his sign in Hanover Square and proudly proclaimed himself as +the only London bookseller in America. He established his Tory +newspaper, the _New York Gazetteer_, and had it wrecked by patriots, +who threw the furniture out into Hanover Square and moulded the type +into bullets. It was he who printed the poems of Andre; who after the +war gave up a Tory paper and was strong for the cause of the new +nation and was in consequence denounced by Freneau. + +Freneau smiled to see the signs of Gaine and Rivington changed to suit +the views of the new republic and rivalling one another in their show +of patriotism. Tempted into Gaine's bookstore by the display of +volumes, he chanced upon a friend who called him by name. And old Hugh +Gaine, turning slowly about at the sound of a name he knew so well, +stared at the enemy he had never seen: + +"Is your name Freneau?" he asked. And the poet answered: + +"Yes, Philip Freneau." + +For just a moment the bookseller hesitated, then said: + +"I want to shake your hand; you have given me and my friend Rivington +a lasting reputation." + +It was in one of these very bookstores that Freneau met Lindley Murray +in the year after the peace was declared. From their first meeting the +two were friends. Murray had accumulated a fortune as a salt merchant +on Long Island during the British occupation. Strong patriot as +Freneau was, he was attracted to the son at first through the memory +of the parent, for it was Lindley Murray's mother, living on Murray +Hill, who had saved Putnam's troops from being trapped by the British. +The friendship of Freneau and Lindley Murray might have ripened, +but that in the year after their meeting Murray went to England, where +he was to devote himself, for his own amusement, to horticulture, in a +pretty little garden beside his home near York, and where he wrote his +famous grammar for a young ladies' school. + +[Illustration: + +1. WILLIAM SMITH. +2. PETER STUYVESANT. +3. PHILIP FRENEAU. +4. THOMAS PAINE. +5. JOEL BARLOW.] + +Even in the lifetime of Freneau, changes came to Hanover Square. For +more than half a century it was the "Newspaper Row," then it gradually +became the dry-goods district, then settled down to a general centre +for wholesale houses. At one corner of the square lived for a time +Jean Victor Moreau, the French General, after he had been banished for +supposed participation in the plot of Cadoudal and Pichegru against +the life of the First Consul. + +[Illustration: Fraunces' Tavern] + +In the years that followed the Revolution, Freneau spent much of his +time in sea trips, but he was in the city again when George Washington +took the oath of office as the first President of the United States at +the Federal Hall in Wall Street; and was in the quaint St. Paul's +Chapel, then quite a new structure, when Washington went there on the +day of his inauguration. In the same year, Freneau lived for a time in +Wall Street, close by the house where Alexander Hamilton lived, who in +those days was a figure in literary New York by reason of his writing +of the _Federalist_ papers. That was thirteen years before Hamilton +occupied his country house, "The Grange," far up the island, which +was to be still standing a hundred years later, when the city had +crept up to and beyond it, and left it where One Hundred and +Forty-first Street crosses Convent Avenue. Close by, in narrow Nassau +Street, when Freneau lived in Wall, was the home of a man who had been +his classmate in college. This was Aaron Burr. He, too, in a few +years, was to leave the humble house in Nassau Street, to live in the +Richmond Hill house, where the British Commissary Mortier had lived, +and from which Burr walked forth on an eventful morning in 1804 to +fight a mortal combat with Hamilton on the Jersey shore. + +[Illustration: Broad St. and Federal Hall] + +In 1791 Philip Freneau was in Philadelphia editing the _National +Gazette_, the strongest political paper of his day, memorable for +partisan abuse and for such bitter attacks on the administration that +Washington alluded to its editor as "that rascal Freneau." The paper +continued under Freneau until 1793, when he returned to New York for a +time. + +[Illustration: Richmond Hill] + +In those days of 1793 there were three or four detached houses in +Cedar Street close by Nassau. In the one nearest the corner, on any +day of the week a man, slender and tall, with eyes that were keen and +gray, with dress always in perfect taste, with broad-brimmed hat and +queue, could be seen. He came from this house and walked over to +Broadway, and his neighbors watched regularly for his going and his +coming. He was Noah Webster, editor of _The Minerva_, a paper at that +time devoted to the support of President Washington's administration. +His name was to become a household word, for his paper became the +_Commercial Advertiser_ (that lived and throve even in the twentieth +century), and after he had left the city he wrote a world-famed +dictionary. + +The poetic muse hovered closest about Philip Freneau in the days of +stirring scenes and momentous events. The Poet of the Revolution was +less active when quieter days came. Still he continued to pass a life +of restless energy, and lived far into another century and long after +many another writer had arisen to eclipse him in the literary life of +New York. + + + + +Chapter IV + +In the Days of Thomas Paine + + +When the eighteenth century was within two years of its close, a group +of men, perhaps half a dozen in all, made up the writers of New York. + +The city then lay between the park (a name that had just been bestowed +upon the Common of old) and the Battery; with Broadway, the main +thoroughfare of the town, sending out tendrils of narrow streets to +tangle and turn about themselves in such persistent fashion that they +were never to be straightened out. Quite abruptly, where the park +began, Broadway dwindled from a street to a lane, but with a strong +branch thoroughfare to the east which, with the advent of years, was +to become Park Row. It was not a new thoroughfare by any means, since, +as far back as the days of the Dutch Governors, it had been the one +road that led up through the forested island. + +There faced the road, and so quite of necessity faced the park as +well, a square building, its front so taken up with windows and doors +as to cause wonder that there should be any pretence whatsoever of a +front wall. Not an attractive building, with these many windows always +staring, like eyes, across the road into the park, but one to be +remembered because, for one reason or another, it could well be called +the literary centre of the town. Here it stood, the first Park +Theatre, towering above its neighbors, glistening in its newness. + +[Illustration: The Corner Stone of the Park Theatre + +The corner stone of +this Theatre was laid +on the 5th day of May +AD 1795 + +Jacob Morton } +Wm. Henderson } Commissioners +Carlile Pollock } + +Lewis Hallem } +John Hodgkinson } managers] + +It was rare in the days when the Park Theatre was new, just as it is +rare nowadays, for writers to be of a practical turn of mind. But in +this little group, oddly enough, there was one man of business. He was +the proprietor of the theatre, and although he wrote plays, and +painted pictures, and wrote books, William Dunlap was a man of +affairs. His home was around the corner in quiet Ann Street, which in +another hundred years came to be a very noisy street indeed, crowded +with venders of every sort of odds and ends that can be imagined. A +block away, around another corner in Beekman Street, on the south side +below Nassau, was Dunlap's home when he had given up the theatre, +settled down to literature, and got to writing his important books, +the _American Theatre_ and the _History, Rise, and Progress of the +Arts of Design in the United States_. While he was yet managing the +theatre, Dunlap's favorite strolling-place was up along the parkside, +past the Brick Church, and so on a few steps across Nassau Street to +where Spruce Street has its start. On any pleasant afternoon he could +be found standing on that corner, for a time at least, before the +door of Martling's Tavern, where the Tammany Society had its first +home. Looking at that first Wigwam after this lapse of time, it seems +picturesque enough, and it must in truth have been so, for the enemies +of the Tammany Society were in the habit of referring to it as the +"Pig-pen." A frame building, low, rough, and unpainted, with a +bar-room at one end, a kitchen at the other, and between the two a +"long room," some steps lower than the general floor,--that was +Martling's. + +[Illustration: THE FIRST TAMMANY WIGWAM, CORNER NASSAU AND SPRUCE +STREETS.] + +In the tap-room at Martling's, after an evening in which the untimely +death of George Frederick Cooke had been discussed, Dunlap announced +his intention of writing a life of his actor-friend, who then lay in a +new-made grave in St. Paul's Churchyard. The book was written, and +though few remember the volume now, it was widely read and served to +keep alive the actor's memory. Since that time the grave has been +cared for, and the marble tombstone, later erected by Edmund Kean, +still stands amid the bushes close by the entrance door of the Chapel. + +It was in the year 1810 that Cooke played at the Park Theatre, the +first foreign "star" to come to the city and to attract the +townspeople in such wise that they almost mobbed the playhouse in +their efforts to see him. It was this same Cooke, who, hearing many +speak of a young actor who had played there the year before, said, "I +should have liked to have seen this Payne of yours." Cooke saw him the +next year, and they appeared together in this same Park Theatre, Payne +playing Edgar to Cooke's Lear. + +The name of John Howard Payne did not then have the significance that +it came to have later. For he was known only as a youth who had acted +Norval in the tragedy of _Douglas_ with such fiery earnestness as to +be proclaimed the "Young American Roscius." Who could have foreseen +that adventurous "boy actor" grown to manhood, and writing a song that +was to live and be known the world over by reason of its appeal to all +hearts? + +In Pearl Street, scarce a foot of which is left untrod by the +footsteps of the writers of the city, Payne was born. Around the +modest house that bore the number 33, near to Whitehall Street, he +first toddled with baby steps, and the nearby "broad" street, where +the canal had been, was his first journey when he could walk. His +parents moved to East Hampton, on Long Island, so early in his +childhood, and so many of his childish days were passed in the fields +there while his father taught school in the Clinton Academy, that +East Hampton is often spoken of as the place of his birth. But for all +that the "lowly thatched cottage" of his song was there, and for all +that much of his later life was passed in foreign countries, Payne +loved the city of his birth and took occasion many times to say so. + +In London, when ill-luck bore hardest upon him, he wrote _Clari, the +Maid of Milan_, and gave _Home, Sweet Home_ to the heroine as her +principal song. He received the honors of New York when he returned +for a brief period, twenty-two years after his boyish triumph at the +Park Theatre, and was so affectionately remembered that when, a decade +later, he died in far-away Tunis, it was felt that he should not be +left in a foreign land. But, although this sentiment was strong, it +was not until 1883 that his body was brought to America. Then, for a +day, the coffin lay in state in the City Hall, in the Governor's Room, +close by a window from which a view could be had of where the old Park +Theatre had stood, just across the stretch of green sward. And the +people, in honor of the man whose one song had thrilled an entire +world, filed past the sealed coffin by the thousands, and shed many a +tear that day. + +One of the tortuous streets springing from Broadway, starting close by +Trinity Church, winding away to the east, and mingling with other +streets until brought to an abrupt halt by the river, was called, and +is still called, Pine Street. In the first days of the nineteenth +century it bore no suggestion, save in name, of a forest that once +stretched above the city. In those good old days when the Dutch held +full sway, Cornelius van Tienhoven was the bookkeeper of the West +India Company, and when he married the step-daughter of Jan Jansen +Damen, the bride brought him as dower a slice of this forest. When, +later, a clearing was cut through the wood it was called Tienhoven's +Street. But such a name rang too strongly Dutch for those who served +an English king, and when the English came they quickly called it King +Street. And so it remained until after the Revolution, when, in +remembrance of the Dutch forest, the name was changed to Pine Street. + +Now, whether it was pure accident or whether he searched and found the +prettiest street in all the town, it is nevertheless a fact that here +Dr. Elihu Hubbard Smith had fixed his home, scarce more than a block +from Trinity Church, and here he wrote much of his verse. Here, too, +in his house, on many a Tuesday evening, met the Friendly Club, and +at these meetings, following the custom of the club from the time that +Washington lived in the city, each member in turn read a passage from +some favorite author, thus giving impetus to the conversation. In Dr. +Smith's parlor, joining in these discussions, sat William Dunlap, +Charles Brockden Brown, James Kent, Joseph Dennie, and all the writers +of the circle. It was Dr. Smith who wrote the prologue for the Park +Theatre upon its opening, and not a member of the Friendly Club but +attended the first performance. + +[Illustration: MAP OF STREETS IN THE CITY OF NEW YORK IN 1827.] + +It is small wonder that Charles Brockden Brown was the foremost member +of the club. He had just claim. Thrusting aside criticism and advice, +ignoring the fact that he was an invalid facing the hardship that must +be overcome, he stood forth as the first writer in America to support +himself by his pen alone. The Bar, even though there was ever so fair +a prospect of his earning a living by it, could not attract him +against his natural desire. The writings of this determined genius +could not but be successful. Seeking no friends, but having many, +preferring the single companionship of Dr. Smith, with whom he lived, +Charles Brockden Brown wrote his novel, _Wieland_, and followed it in +the next three years with _Ormond_, _Edgar Huntley_, _Arthur Mervyn_, +_Jane Talbot_, and _Clara Howard_. Many a man of the pen, in +admiration of the iron will of this first American novelist, finds a +delight in thinking of him and in following his footsteps along Pine +Street and the lower end of Broadway to the Battery. + +[Illustration: The Post Office + +William St.] + +In the days of bereavement following the death of Dr. Smith, the +companion of Brown's solitude was Joseph Dennie. Often in the +intervals of work they wandered through the quiet park, and many a +time they knelt together in the Brick Church, a square beyond the Park +Theatre, with the memory of their dead companion strong upon them. The +shadow of their friend's death was still over them when they parted, +and Joseph Dennie went to Philadelphia to start his magazine, _The +Portfolio_, which was to cause the name of "The Lay Preacher" to ring +through the land. He was in Philadelphia when Brown, in 1803, started +_The Literary Magazine and American Register_. But the next year he +was in New York again, occasionally joining in a literary partnership +in which there was a third member now, for Brown had married the +daughter of Dr. Linn, the Presbyterian minister. The years rolled on, +and Brown sought to fight off death by terrific work. But death only +clutched him the tighter. The strolls with Elizabeth, his +gentle-hearted wife, grew shorter and shorter and less frequent, until +they ceased altogether six years after his marriage, and another +landmark in the literary history of the city had gone down. + +There was one stately and studious member of the Friendly Club who, it +is recorded, could seldom be persuaded to go to the Park Theatre +except on the "great nights." James Kent, then a Professor of Law at +Columbia College, when not at work (those were rare moments indeed), +loved best to wander over the College grounds. These are now lost +beyond all tracing in the overcrowding between the City Hall and +Hudson River. Then it was a delightful country spot. When Professor +Kent did not walk on the College grounds by the riverside, he strolled +up Broadway past the hospital with his friend, Dr. David Hosack, and +the two discussed at length the Elgin Botanical Garden that the +physician had just laid out three miles above the city. It was this +James Kent who came to be Chancellor of New York and whose memory +lives in his _Commentaries on American Law_. + +Beyond the city, separated from it in summer by a mile of marshy and +untilled land, in winter by a dreary waste with a single road leading +across a snow-bound way, lay the village of Greenwich. A dreamy little +country place that had been an Indian village before the settling of +New Amsterdam; with lines of peaked-roof houses on zig-zagged lanes, +and now and again, in the midst of a farm-like garden, a rambling +house of stone, with great square windows and gables enough for half a +dozen houses. The village might have been thousands of miles away from +New York for all the likeness it bore to it. + +On a dusty and rarely travelled lane, that led from the village +towards the city, lived a man who had won the hearts of Americans by +writing _Common Sense_, but who lived to reap their hatred by writing +_The Age of Reason_, a deistic argument against Christianity. In the +quiet village his house was pointed out as the abode of a friendless +man, and when they spoke of him the villagers whispered the dread +name--Tom Paine. + +There he lived with Madame Bonneville and her two sons, the only +companions he cared to have near him save his own thoughts. In that +picturesque spot he was fully content to pass his final days in +solitude and marked contrast to a life of energy and excitement. + +It is close upon a century since that time, and the pilgrim feet that +seek to follow Paine through Greenwich Village must walk Bleecker +Street (the dusty lane in much changed form), must pass Grove Street, +and the fourth house from the corner, on the north side, walking +towards the east, is Paine's. It was humble enough in the days when he +lived there. It is far humbler now in contrast to the buildings that +have grown up about it. A two-story frame house, the ground floor is +made into a store, as though it made an effort to keep up with the +business character of the street. Two brick structures rise above it +on each side and seem to have forced the roof to a frightful angle, so +different is it from its new neighbors. Once Joel Barlow went to see +Paine there, and the two spent almost an entire day beside a front +window, talking of many things. Paine recalled the troublous days of +the French Revolution, when he had written his _Age of Reason_ in the +prison of the Luxembourg, and had given it to Barlow to find a +publisher. The author of the _Columbiad_ often spoke of the visit +later. + +The dusty road where the house stood, even though it was little +travelled, came to be too noisy a place for Paine, for in his illness +even the chance passer-by irritated him. So he moved away to a house +in a nearby field, so far from the road that he found absolute quiet. +In after days Grove Street swept this home away, and another building, +numbered 59, is pointed out as the place where Paine died shortly +after his removal. + +The hatred of many people followed Thomas Paine even after death, and +there could be no rest for an advocate of infidel opinions in a town +where dwelt descendants of stern Huguenots. His body was taken to New +Rochelle, and there, refused burial in hallowed ground, was finally +laid to rest outside the town, in a corner of the farm given to him by +the State in recognition of his services in the cause of the colonies +against the mother country. Ten years later, William Cobbett, the +English Radical, an ardent admirer of Paine, visited New Rochelle, +and, seeing the neglected grave by the wayside, had the bones dug up +one night and spirited away to England. In another twenty years the +followers of Thomas Paine had grown in number, and the Paine +Historical Society erected a monument over the empty grave by the +roadside. But on this spot, where no rest had been permitted him in +life or in death, it seems rather to mock than to bless his grave. + + + + +Chapter V + +The City that Irving Knew + + +Stretching from Broadway towards the east, starting from the +ivy-covered walls of the Chapel of St. Paul--here lay the scenes of +Washington Irving's childhood. Golden Hill was the name given to this +district, long before Irving was born; called so because of its golden +appearance in the autumn days. It was a wondrously beautiful place, +and set squarely upon the hill-top was an inn that, in the days of the +Revolution, came to be a meeting-place for patriots. Even now, when +the glories of Golden Hill seem quite forgotten, there are those who +love to walk its crowded ways, and who firmly believe that it came by +its name in prophecy of the golden flower of literature one day to be +born close by it. + +[Illustration: Golden Hill Inn] + +The lane that once had its course up the grain-covered hill is there +yet; now, a crowded, dismal thoroughfare bearing the name of William +Street. It is well to start with this old lane, partly because it is +the oldest street in the Golden Hill district, and partly because the +Golden Hill inn of old still stands upon it: a squatty building built +of narrow bricks that were brought from Holland, with a tall chimney +like none of its neighbors; a venerable house full of cracks and +crevices, carved mantels, open fireplaces, wide doorways; made over to +conform to modern business ideas, but not conforming to these very +well; painted and patched up to look new, but looking quite its age to +any one with half an eye for architecture. + +Almost opposite this inn of Golden Hill, midway of the block between +Fulton and John streets, there stood in the year 1783 a quaint little +two-storied dwelling with high-backed roof. One morning the patrons of +the inn had a bit to gossip about. It was a year for gossip anyway, +for the War of the Revolution was near its close. The talk was of a +child that had been born to the Irving family over the way, and who +was to be called Washington in honor of the man so well named the +"Father of his Country." Before another year the Irving family moved +into a house next to the inn on the north and separated from it only +by a garden. In this house Washington Irving spent his youth. Close by +he was baptized, in the Chapel of St. George. The Chapel is gone now, +but where Beekman Street crosses Cliff, on the front of a building +appear in raised letters the words "St. George Building," that show +the spot where it once stood. + +Not far off is the place where the John Street Theatre was, where +Irving went with his friend James K. Paulding, who was himself to make +a name in the literature of the city. Irving's parents were not given +to theatre-going, but Irving, when the family prayers had been said +and he had been sent to bed, ofttimes crept out of the gable window, +slid down the slanting roof, dropped to the ground, and stole away. He +went, just as now following in his footsteps you can go, past the old +inn, around the next corner where, on a house wall, is a tablet +reciting the departed glories of Golden Hill, then on a few steps +until you reach, close by Broadway, a dreary arcade. Walk through the +arcade and you will find it heavy with the sounds of workmen and +machines. The arcade was a covered way leading to the playhouse, and +is all that remains of the theatre. + +[Illustration: St. George's Chapel + +Beekman St.] + +Two minutes' walk away in Ann Street was Mrs. Ann Kilmaster's school, +where Irving studied. Ann Street is only three blocks long and far +from an inviting spot at any point, but here, in the last block of its +length, it dwindles to half the width it had in starting. + +A score of steps from the school, at the northwest corner of Ann +Street and William, Irving lived with his mother after his father's +death. The house is no longer there, but there is one just like it +five houses farther along William Street, that stood there in Irving's +time. + +In the Ann Street house, when he was a law clerk, he did his first +writing, the sketches signed "Jonathan Oldstyle," and published in the +_Morning Chronicle_, which was conducted by his brother Peter. From +this house, while still a lad, he loved to wander down the streets +that stretched over the eastern slope of Golden Hill, and spent hours +on the piers watching the ships loading and unloading, dreaming of the +foreign ports where they had touched, hoping that he might one day see +the shores of those far-away lands. For even in his boyhood the +longing for travel was strong upon him. + +He was still a law clerk, and still living in this Ann Street house, +when he sat in an upper room with his brother William and James K. +Paulding, and they planned a magazine of their own. They went to see +David Longworth, the printer, in his shop beside the Park +Theatre,--"Dusky Davie" they called him, after a song that was popular +at the time,--and after many conferences and much secret doing the +three stripling writers started the sparkling _Salmagundi_ on its way, +with the avowed purpose "to instruct the young, reform the old, +correct the town, and castigate the age." Paulding was the "Launcelot +Langstaff" of the publication, and William Irving was "Pindar +Cockloft" the poet. + +To the west of Golden Hill, Cortlandt Street extends to the river. In +a house on that street close by Broadway, the three writers of +_Salmagundi_ spent much time at the home of the Fairlie sisters. +There lived Mary Fairlie, known to _Salmagundi_ readers as "Sophia +Sparkle," and who married Cooper the tragic actor. + +In the Ann Street house most of the _Knickerbocker History of New +York_ was written. Washington Irving and his brother Peter were to +write it as an extravagant burlesque on Dr. Samuel Mitchill's _Picture +of New York_, then a very popular and learned work. But Peter Irving +was forced to Europe by ill health in 1808, and Washington settled +down to the history, changing its plan and scope. Ten minutes' walk to +the north of where Irving lived in Ann Street is a little park--a +green spot that has taken the place of the squalid Mulberry Bend slum. +In Mulberry Street opposite the park was the location of the imaginary +Independent Columbian Hotel where Dietrich Knickerbocker was supposed +to have lived, and left his manuscript in payment of his board bill. + +But by far the most important house connected with this part of +Irving's life is gone now. This was in Broadway where Leonard Street +now crosses. A square house of many rooms, indeed it was a mansion in +the city of 1809. Here lived Josiah Ogden Hoffman, the protector of +the youthful author, in whose office Irving came by his law training. +In the Hoffman mansion, Irving courted Matilda Hoffman, the lawyer's +fair daughter; here he saw her sicken and grow more feeble day by day; +here she died, and so ended the romance of his life. He never +mentioned her name in after days and could not bear to hear it spoken. +But she lived in his memory, and he never married. In the depths of +his seclusion, during the first months of his sorrow, he finished the +_History_. But his heart was not in the laughter of the book, and he +made joy for others out of his own sorrow. + +Two years after this, Irving was living beside the Bowling Green, at +16 Broadway, with his friend, Henry Brevoort, at the house of Mrs. +Ryckman. While here he edited the _Analectic Magazine_. From here he +often strolled up Broadway as far as Cortlandt Street, to dine at the +house of Jane Renwick, then passing her widowhood in the city. Her son +became the Professor James Renwick of Columbia College. It was she of +whom Burns sang as _The Blue-Eyed Lassie_. + +Still another house knew the Irving of early days, the boarding-house +of Mrs. Brandish, at Greenwich and Rector streets, where he went from +Bowling Green. It was a pretty brick building on a quiet street then, +but it is a gloomy-enough place to look upon now, darkened by the +Elevated Railroad and overrun with hoards of noisy children and +tenement dwellers; a strange spot to look for memories of the +gentle-hearted Irving. + +When Irving left New York in 1815, it was with no intention of +remaining away any length of time. In England he wrote _Rip Van +Winkle_, though he had never been in the Catskills, where the scene of +his classic lay. In Paris he met John Howard Payne, and the two worked +together, in the Rue Richelieu, adapting French plays to English +representation--but this partnership came to little. He went to Spain +and there, while writing the _Life and Voyages of Columbus_, he met a +young man then fitting himself by travel to enter on the duties of +Professor of Modern Languages in Bowdoin College. This was Henry W. +Longfellow, unknown then as a poet. While in Spain, Irving occupied +the Governor's quarters in the Alhambra, an otherwise deserted palace, +abiding there in a kind of Oriental dream, and living over in +imagination the _Conquest of Granada_. Back in London again as +Secretary of the Legation to the Court of St. James, he arranged his +material for the _Voyages of the Companions of Columbus_, and half a +dozen other works. Then, after seventeen years of wandering, he +returned to his native city. + +Although he tells us that his heart throbbed at sight of New York, and +that in all his travels he had seen no place that caused such a thrill +of joy, it was no longer the city of his youth. He had left a town of +one hundred thousand people and found a city of two hundred thousand. +The companions of his youth had grown to be men, and many of them were +renowned in literature and business life. He found streets grown long +out of all remembrance, houses tall beyond all knowing, strangers who +knew him simply as a name. He found many silent graves where he had +left blooming youth. But for all this there were many ready and +anxious to do him honor. + +A few steps beyond Trinity Churchyard on Broadway is a narrow +thoroughfare called Thames Street. It is easy to be found, and beside +it is a tall building on which is a tablet relating how the Burns's +Coffee-House once stood on the spot. This had been a mansion built by +Etienne De Lancey, a Huguenot noble, and Thames Street was the +carriage-way that led to the door. In this coffee-house the merchants +of the city signed the Non-Importation Agreement in the days before +the Revolution. + +When Irving returned to the city the coffee-house was gone, and on +its site was the City Hotel, the main hostelry of the city. Here the +chief citizens gathered and a banquet was held and all honor paid to +the "illustrious guest, thrice welcome to his native city." + +[Illustration: The City Hotel] + +From the site of this old house, it is a pleasant walk down Broadway, +past the Bowling Green to Bridge Street, where, at No. 3, Irving, +after his return, went to live with his brother Ebenezer, who had been +the Captain Greatheart of "Cockloft Hall." Here, in this home, Irving +spent many happy days. It was called by him "the family hive," for it +was always filled to overflowing with relatives. + +[Illustration: + +1. JAMES KIRKE PAULDING. +2. PHILIP HONE. +3. WASHINGTON IRVING. +4. JOSEPH RODMAN DRAKE. +5. FITZ GREENE HALLECK. +6. J. FENIMORE COOPER.] + +But one place above all others in New York is filled with the memory +of Irving. This is a bit of ground on the east side of the city, a +point of land stretching out into the river. Here of all places the +spirit of Irving still lingers, for here of all places it is less +changed in appearance since his feet trod the ground. In Irving's day +it was a stretch of countryside with summer houses of the wealthy at +long distances facing the river. Now, though the city has encompassed +it, there is still left the one green spot by the riverside beyond +Eighty-eighth Street. The East River Park they call it, and there are +rough stone steps leading to the waterside, winding paths and +overhanging trees--the trees that Irving stood beneath. And there, +across the stretch of water, is Hell Gate, its tempestuous waters +tamed by the hand of man, but nevertheless the same Hell Gate that +Irving looked upon and that Irving wrote about. Part of this park were +the grounds of John Jacob Astor, the friend of Irving. His house stood +beyond the park, where Eighty-eighth Street now touches East End +Avenue,--a square two-story frame dwelling of colonial type, painted +white, with deep veranda, wide halls, and spacious rooms; set high +upon a hill, backed by a forest of towering trees, and fronted by a +vast lawn stretching by gentle slope to the cliff at the riverside. +Here Irving was a guest, and wrote _Astoria_, telling of Astor's +settlement on the Columbia River and of scenes beyond the Rockies; +here he met Captain Bonneville and his friends, and the journals of +the one and thrilling tales of the other gave material for the +_Adventures of Captain Bonneville_. + +The house of Astor is gone now, but within the limits of this park +still stands the home of Gracie, the merchant, where Irving was a +constant visitor, and where, in the rooms given over to stranger +hands, still linger memories of Paulding and Halleck, Bancroft and +Drake, and a host of others. + +[Illustration: The House of Astor where Irving wrote "Astoria"] + +It was while working on _Astoria_ that Irving began the building of +Wolfert's Roost, the Van Tassel house of the _Legend of Sleepy +Hollow_, on that delightful spot on the Hudson which in the first +days of Irving's residence there was called Dearman. In after time the +name was changed to Irvington, in his honor, and Wolfert's Roost, in +honor of the glorious country, became Sunnyside. It is Sunnyside to +this day, altered by additions made in the intervening years, but +still the house of Irving; and the ivy clinging to its walls has +sprung from a root taken from the ruins of Scott's "fair Melrose" and +planted where it now grows by the friendly hand of Jane Renwick. + +[Illustration: Where Irving lived--17th St. and Irving Place] + +On the corner of Seventeenth Street and Irving Place (a thoroughfare +to which his memory gave a name), late in life, Irving lived betimes. +Here was once the home of John T. Irving, a nephew of the author. It +is a sturdy house still, and looks as youthful as its neighbors that +were built many a day after it. Then it stood quite alone in a stretch +of country. From the windows of the large room on the ground floor, +Irving could see the waters of the East River. In this room he wrote +portions of _Oliver Goldsmith_, parts, too, of the _Life of Mahomet_, +and arranged the notes of what was to be his last book--the _Life of +Washington_. + +But his real home was Sunnyside, and there, in the year 1859, when he +was seventy-six years old, he died. + + + + +Chapter VI + +With Paulding, Drake, and Halleck + + +In the summer of 1797, a tall, well-built lad with a face showing just +a suggestion of melancholy, landed from the weekly market sloop and +walked along the streets of New York for the first time. He was a +country boy, well versed in trees and brooks and used to pathless +hills and rough country roads, and his first impression of New York +was that the dwellers there were great lumpkins. He could not imagine +why they pointed at him and nodded at him and laughed as he walked in +the middle of the street, quite disregarding the paved walk. He +stopped, from time to time, to ask his way, until he came to a little +square brick house in Vesey Street, below Church, bearing the number +43, the home of William Irving. There he went in and was given a good +hug by Mrs. Irving. The boy was James Kirke Paulding, and she who +welcomed him was his sister, with whom he was to live until he should +get a start in the ways and work of the city. + +William Irving lived in a house delightfully situated, though no one +would think so now when the spot is jammed with merchants' warehouses, +and sounds of trade fill the air. When Paulding came to town, it was +beyond the ken of the business section, and there were not so many +houses about but that he could enjoy an inviting view. From the front +door he looked straight before him over the grounds of Columbia +College, and to the left across green gardens to the river. From his +little window in the upper story he saw the city to the south, and to +the east St. Paul's Chapel, with the steeple that came to be so gray +with age looking then so new, for it had just been added to the +church. Beyond the graveyard and across Broadway, he had a good view +of the park with its three buildings--the Bridewell, the Almshouse, +and the Prison,--and across the park could see the Park Theatre and +the Brick Church. He could catch a glimpse of Broadway winding over a +hill toward the Stone Bridge at Canal Street, and other roads leading +into the country towards the north, where level stretches led past +rude farmhouses and quaint inns. + +The first few years of Paulding in the city, when he was clerk in the +United States Loan Office, were years of hard work. But there were +relaxations, too, for his relationship to William Irving brought him +in contact with the other members of the family--young Washington +Irving and Dr. Peter Irving. When, in a few years, Dr. Irving +published his newspaper, the _Morning Chronicle_, Paulding wrote bits +of prose and verse for it. So his first writings appeared in the same +publication and at the same time as the first writings of Washington +Irving, and it was the interchange of thought in the Vesey Street +house and the opportunities afforded by the _Morning Chronicle_ that +led Paulding's thoughts towards writing as a profession. + +Meantime there was much going on in the way of improvement. The new +City Hall was erected in the park; the first free schoolhouse was +opened; and Fulton's _Clermont_ sailed up the Hudson, the first +successful steamboat. A commission had been appointed, too, with the +object of directing the course of the streets, which up to that time +had grown out of the paths left by the cows in their wanderings to +pasture. The commissioners did their work so that, as time went on, +the highways were laid out to form a city of strict right angles. The +cows certainly did their part in a manner that left far more +picturesque twists and turns than were to be found in the upper part +laid out by the commissioners in such a scientifically uninteresting +way. + +Paulding lived with William Irving in the Vesey Street house for nine +years, and then the Irvings moved a few blocks the other side of +Columbia College, to 287 Greenwich Street, and Paulding went with +them. Here began the meetings of a literary set, which in a few months +developed into the "Ancient Club of New York," with Washington, Peter, +and William Irving, Paulding, Henry Brevoort, and Gouverneur Kemble +leading members. Kemble owned some land in New Jersey, on which was +located _Salmagundi's_ Cockloft Hall, and on this account was called +"The Patroon." From one of the informal meetings of the Ancient Club, +Washington Irving, his brother William, and Paulding went secretly to +Irving's house in Ann Street to discuss details of _Salmagundi_. +Paulding wrote his share of _Salmagundi_ on the upper floor of the +Greenwich Street house, while the lower floor was the mill of Pindar +Cockloft, conducted by William Irving. + +From this house on many an evening the friends went to dine at Dyde's, +the fascinating eating-house near the Park Theatre, then beginning a +long career with the founders of _Salmagundi_ as a foundation for the +memories that were to cluster around its doors, to be passed over, +years later, to Windust's still more famous resort on almost the same +spot. + +Paulding was still living with the Irving family when, in 1807, they +went to live at No. 17 in aristocratic State Street, at the corner of +Pearl, facing the Battery Park. Here, overlooking the blue waters of +the bay dotted with sailboats and rowboats, and beyond to the +stretches of Jersey shore, Paulding wrote his contributions to the +_Analectic Magazine_, edited by Washington Irving from his home little +more than a stone's throw away across the Bowling Green; also, _The +Diverting History of John Bull and Brother Jonathan_. Here, too, +replying to an attack on his country, he wrote, _The United States and +England_, a pamphlet that attracted the notice of President Madison, +who summoned Paulding to Washington for eight years as Secretary of +the Board of Navy Commissioners. During those eight years he wrote +_The Backwoodsman_ his longest poem and the one which he liked best of +all, a liking not generally shared by his readers; the second series +of _Salmagundi_; and _Koningsmarke_. + +Having married Gertrude, the sister of his friend and companion +Gouverneur Kemble, his days were moving smoothly along when the death +of his wife's father took him again to New York and he went to live in +what had long been the home of "The Patroon." This was a mansion of +solid type in Whitehall Street, corner of Stone, set in the midst of a +wide-spreading garden, a site blurred out in later days by the Produce +Exchange. Here he lived during the fourteen years he acted as Navy +Agent at New York, devoting his evenings to literary work, writing his +most successful book, _The Dutchman's Fireside_, also _John Bull in +America_, _Tales of the Good Woman_, and _Westward Ho!_ In the evening +he went often to the Park Theatre, and came to know James H. Hackett, +the greatest Falstaff America had seen, writing for him _The Lion of +the West_, which Hackett acted for many years. And then after fifteen +years in this house he left it, and with his family went to Washington +as Secretary of the Navy. + +Once more, in 1841, he returned to New York, to live in Beach Street, +then the fashionable St. John's Park neighborhood. But, his wife dying +before he was really settled, he soon left New York and passed the +last days of his life in Dutchess County, the region of his birth. + +At about the time Paulding moved into the State Street house two young +men met one afternoon at the home of a mutual friend. One was +studying medicine and beginning to see something more in life than a +struggle for mere existence. He was Joseph Rodman Drake. The other, +Fitz-Greene Halleck, was a bookkeeper and had but just come from his +birthplace in Guilford, Connecticut. He had read much poetry and had +written some stray verse. A few days after their meeting, the two came +together again in the rooms where Halleck boarded in Greenwich Street, +not half a dozen houses from the place where Washington Irving was +living with Mrs. Brandish. The second meeting was the real start of an +inseparable friendship which has caused them to be looked upon as the +Orestes and Pylades of American poets. + +Halleck had begun his work for Jacob Barker. The warehouse where he +was employed stands yet and can easily be found by walking down John +Street to Burling Slip, and so on around the corner into South Street +by the waterside. Drake ofttimes took that walk and sat there by the +side of his friend's desk. Often, too, in the late afternoon, Halleck +walked from there to the green that since has been called the City +Hall Park, and sat until Drake came from his studies in the nearby +College of Physicians and Surgeons. The college was part of Columbia, +which lay to the west of the green. In time the city overgrew the +college grounds so completely that those interested in remembering +where they had been set up a tablet at West Broadway and Murray +Street, as a reminder that they should not be entirely forgotten. From +the park it was the wont of the youthful poets to walk along Broadway +below Trinity Church--then the fashionable promenade,--and so on to +the Battery, past where Irving had lived by the Bowling Green, past +where Paulding was then living. + +The time came when Drake was graduated, and then there were the long +evenings together back of his office in the store numbered 121 Bowery, +just above Hester Street. From this house the friends made their long +excursions across the Harlem River, far beyond the town, into the +romantic Bronx of which Drake sang so often and so well. + +One night, starting from the Bowery shop, Drake took Halleck down +Broadway into Thames Street, and there, back of the City Hotel, dined +him in a dingy little public house, the first of many pleasant +evenings there. It was the ale-house kept by William Reynolds, a +genial, red-faced man who had been a grave-digger in the nearby +Trinity Churchyard. + +The tavern remained a place of entertainment for close upon a hundred +years, most of the time known as "Old Tom's," from Reynolds's +successor. It came to be a landmark for the curious, but as the +curious always stood outside and never by any chance went in to buy of +what was on sale there, it went the way of all old places. To-day, if +you turn into Thames Street, from busy Broadway, you come upon a mass +of buildings in perpetual shade, and with a decidedly provincial air +not at all in keeping with the up-to-date city. A walk of half a block +brings you to Temple Street--a thoroughfare leading nowhere in +particular, but which wise chroniclers have quarrelled over, some +urging that it came by its name because of being close by Trinity +Church, which is a temple of worship, and others quite as vigorously +contending that it took its name from Charlotte Temple, who lived +nearby. Here you find Reynolds's tavern metamorphosed into a modern +place of business, and though the street is still quaint-appearing, +every suggestion of romance has vanished from the tavern. Nevertheless +the curious, who in its days of need regarded it from afar, love to +sit in it, surrounded by modern conveniences, and tell what it was +like "in Drake's time." + +Drake prospered, and after a time set up his pharmacy in the busiest +part of town, that later grew to be the core of Newspaper Row. When +Drake lived in Park Row, the second door from Beekman Street, he and +Halleck hit upon the idea of the "Croaker Papers," a series of satires +in verse, printed in the _Evening Post_, in which the poets sailed +into the public characters of the day. This was the house where +Halleck went to read his _Fanny_ to Drake, and made some corrections +at his friend's suggestion before he gave it to the world. + +[Illustration: The Shakespeare Tavern] + +Around the corner from the Park Row shop, the Shakespeare Tavern was +conducted by Thomas Hawkins Hodgkinson, the actor; a resort for the +actors, the artists, the writers, the talkers of the town; a popular +rendezvous quite in contrast to Reynolds's quiet inn. It stood at the +southwest corner of Fulton and Nassau streets, a double house of +brick, having for its sign a bust of the great poet over the door. In +after years a tablet was set to mark the spot. Halleck tells of a +meeting here with James Lawson, the journalist, who came to write the +_Tales and Sketches of a Cosmopolite_. + +On a night when Drake and Paulding and some others gathered for a +friendly evening there arose a discussion, argued for and against by +all the company, as to whether or not the rivers of America were rich +enough in legend and romance to lend themselves to poetic treatment. +And after the talk had lengthened into the morning hours, Drake went +to the room over his Park Row shop to put his view of the subject into +writing. In a few days he read to Halleck the poem on which his fame +chiefly rests, _The Culprit Fay_--a poetic fantasy illumining the +Highlands of the Hudson. + +In the year 1820, Halleck sat in the Park Row house by the bedside of +his friend, who was dying of consumption, and here, at the age of +twenty-five, Joseph Rodman Drake passed away. Halleck followed the +coffin to that beautiful spot beyond the Harlem that they both loved +so well, and there by the side of the Bronx streamlet the poet Drake +was buried. In the depth of his grief Halleck wrote the lines: + + Green be the turf above thee, + Friend of my better days; + None knew thee but to love thee, + None named thee but to praise. + +And now after more than three quarters of a century the words still +murmur their message of friendship and sorrow above Drake's grave. The +city has sped on far beyond the little graveyard, and harsh sounds +throb where once was only the singing of birds; but the consecrated +spot remains, cared for year by year as well as may be in despite of +relic-hunting vandals. + +Halleck outlived his friend by many long years. He gave up bookkeeping +for Jacob Barker, and during eighteen years was the confidential +manager of the affairs of John Jacob Astor. But he never failed to +regret the comrade of his youth, losing with him much of his +inspiration. + +[Illustration: The Jumel Mansion] + +Half an hour's journey from Drake's grave, on the western side of the +Harlem River, there stands, at One Hundred and Sixtieth Street and +Edgecombe Avenue, a house on a bluff so high above the river that it +can be seen from afar--white in the sunlight. This is the Morris +house, where Mary Philipse lived after she became the wife of Roger +Morris; where Washington had his headquarters; where Madame Jumel +lived, and where she married Aaron Burr. To the one who strolls in the +footsteps of _litterateurs_ of a bygone day, it is, more than all, the +house where Halleck visited, and where he wrote _Marco Bozzaris_. +Although this was his most widely known poem, and though it was +written five years after the death of Drake, the memory of his friend +was like a fresh sorrow to him while he wrote. During forty odd years +from that time he continued the gently courteous, witty talker, the +dignified life of each gathering he attended. But, as he knew so well, +his Muse was sorely wounded when Drake died, and the fuller poetic +life that might have been his was buried on the green slope of the +Bronx with his friend. + + + + +Chapter VII + +Cooper and His Friends + + +In that cheerless precinct of New York City to which still clings the +name St. John's Park, though there has been no park there this +half-century,--in Beach Street, a dozen or perhaps twenty steps from +Hudson Street, there stands a house that could not fail to attract the +attention of an observant passer-by. A brick building, its +architectural features suggest roomy attractiveness--a condition +little sought after in these days when the value of every inch of +ground calls for compactness regardless of beauty of appearance. One +looking at this building and given to sentiment might argue that it is +strongly reminiscent of a human being who had once been vigorous and +had made a considerable show in the world of fashion and pride, but +who had sunk to poverty and decrepitude. For the carved window-cases +are hacked and beaten away, the wrought-iron railings are twisted and +rusty, the marble steps are cracked and crumbling, the high ceilings +with their heavy and ornate mouldings are seamed and discolored, and +the massive oaken doors are cracked by many a rusty nail driven into +them, holding ragged and worn-out garments. Yet even in its age and +neglect are found traces of its primal sturdy and artistic +proportions. + +In the year 1821, this house was the home of James Fenimore Cooper. +His first book, _Precaution_, had failed utterly. His second book, +_The Spy_, had been prodigiously successful, when in this year he went +to New York to live in what was then the fashionable district of St. +John's Park. He was thirty-one years old, had lived at Cooperstown, +studied at Yale, shipped as a sailor before the mast, made voyages to +England and Spain, been appointed midshipman, and seen service on Lake +Ontario and Lake Champlain, had resigned his commission, and had +married Augusta de Lancey at Heathcote Hill Manor, Mamaroneck. After +the birth of his daughter, Susan Fenimore Cooper, who became a writer +of rural sketches, he settled down in Westchester County to live the +life of a country gentleman. He might have remained there all his days +but that one day he got hold of a particularly stupid book of English +life, and was so bored by it that it forced from him the exclamation +that he could write a better himself! Which remark being interpreted +literally by his wife, there was nothing for the country gentleman but +to make good his boast. So he wrote a dull and stupid story which +even his friends had difficulty in reading to the end, and then, +doubtless finding writing more agreeable than farming, wrote another +that destined him evermore to a literary life. + +This much of Cooper's life was behind him when he moved into the Beach +Street house. In this home he wrote _The Pioneers_, first of the +famous Leatherstocking Tales and, too, _The Pilot_. + +In the New York of that day there was one place where he loved to go +for a quiet dinner and discussion with the literary friends whom he +quickly gathered around him. This was the chief hostelry of the day, +the City Hotel, which stood close by where Wall Street runs into +Broadway. It was at one of these dinners that he met James A. +Hillhouse, who, though he had already written _The Judgment_ and was +recognized as a poet, was then engaged in mercantile pursuits in the +city; but was very soon to make a home in New Haven and remain there +during the rest of his life. Hillhouse was not a regular diner with +Cooper, but he introduced there a friend who became much more regular +in his attendance. Samuel Woodworth was even then shouldering aside +adversity with intermittent success. It was his habit to walk briskly +up from his printing office at the foot of Wall Street, very much in +the manner of a man having an imperative appointment. Four years +before Cooper came to town, on a very hot summer day, Woodworth had +walked in this same eager manner to his house farther up-town in Duane +Street, and there, drinking from a pump before his door, had said: +"I'd like to have a drink to-day from the old bucket that hung in my +father's well." Whereupon his kindly wife hinted that the old bucket +of his remembrance would make a good subject for a poem--a hint that +within the hour took the form of _The Old Oaken Bucket_, a pastoral +poem well remembered and much sung, though many another of his, many +an operetta, and even the historical romance, _The Champion of +Freedom_, have faded from memory. + +At these dinners, when Cooper sat with his friends, Woodworth and +Morris held the first discussions of the plans for _The Mirror_, which +was started in 1823, but from which the inconstant Woodworth soon +retired. + +On more than one occasion one of the dinner party was Richard Henry +Dana, a founder of the _North American Review_ and the friend of +Bryant. The City Hotel was quite convenient for him, for he had made a +sort of headquarters in the place of Wiley, the publisher, around the +corner in Wall Street by New Street. At that time he issued from +Wiley's shop _The Idle Man_, that literary publication which scarcely +lived long enough to include his novels, _Tom Thornton_ and _Paul +Felton_, and some contributions from Washington Allston and Bryant. + +Many a good idea came from the meetings at the City Hotel, but +possibly none more felicitous than that of the Bread-and-Cheese Club. +This remained so long in the germ that the realization seemed far off, +but finally, in 1824, began the holding of its fortnightly meetings in +Washington Hall--afterwards swept away to give place to the Stewart +Building at Broadway and Reade Street. The club derived its name from +Cooper's conceit of having candidates balloted for with bread and +cheese, a bit of bread favoring election and cheese deciding against +it. + +[Illustration: Washington Hall] + +As Cooper had in the main originated the club, he was the leading +spirit around whom gathered Halleck and Bryant, Percival, Professor +Renwick, Dr. J.W. Francis, and all the writers of the day. An +enthusiastic member was Philip Hone, who had just retired from +business and bought a house at 235 Broadway opposite the park, a site +considered a good way up-town for a residence. His diary, which in +after years led him to be called the Pepys of America, was commenced +in this house, but the greater part was written at his residence of +later date, at the southwest corner of Broadway and Great Jones +Street. + +Gulian C. Verplanck was a member too. At the time he occupied a +professorship in the General Theological Seminary. From one of the +meetings he walked down Broadway and through Wall Street past the +house, near Broad Street, where he was born, discussing with Bryant +and Robert C. Sands an early suggestion of the _Talisman_ magazine, +which was not to ripen into an accomplished fact for a good three +years. On this same walk, too, he took part while Bryant and Sands +discussed plans for the _Atlantic Monthly_, which Sands established +the next year. + +But writers were not the only members of the Bread-and-Cheese Club. +There were scholars and professional men, and often there were +statesmen and men of national distinction as guests. But as Cooper was +its leading spirit, when he left for his trip abroad the club went to +pieces. He started in 1825 on his foreign travels, and at the time of +his going was living at 345 Greenwich Street, where he had finished +work on _The Last of the Mohicans_. + +In the year after his going there was a gala night at the Lafayette +Theatre, when _The Spy_ was enacted. The Lafayette was the largest +theatre then. Upon its site in West Broadway near Canal Street St. +Alphonsus's Church now stands. To that performance came from up-State +Enoch Crosby, who was said to be the original Spy, and when he +appeared in a box with some friends the audience gave him a thunderous +ovation. + +Cooper returned from abroad in 1833, having added _The Prairie_, _The +Red Rover_, _The Water Witch_, and _The Bravo_ to his list of +published books, and went to live in Bleecker Street, two blocks from +Broadway, near Thompson Street. This was a select neighborhood then of +pretty, irregular brick dwellings. The house is there yet, but the +neighborhood is no longer elegant. Italian merchants, unkempt in +appearance, carry on meagre and uncertain kinds of business, and +Cooper's old house is so decorated with signs inside and out as to be +picturesque only for its dinginess and disorder. Cooper did not live +there long, for he soon moved to Broadway at Prince Street, into a +house that later gave way to Niblo's Garden, and there he completed +work on the volumes covering his stay in Europe, under the titles +_Sketches in Switzerland_ and _Gleanings in Europe_. But he made no +very long stay on Broadway, for he moved again, this time to St. +Mark's Place, a few doors from Third Avenue, into an unpretentious +brick house of three stories that is there still. There he wrote +_Homeward Bound_ and began in earnest that fierce combat with his +critics which was to last to the end of his days and leave many a +regret that he had not been a more even-tempered man. From this house +he went to Cooperstown, which became his final home. + +At the time that Cooper lived in New York there walked along Broadway, +between Canal Street and the Chapel of St. Paul's, on almost every +pleasant afternoon, a man who in appearance was a veritable Hamlet. +His garb was a customary suit of solemn black, and his eyes sought the +ground as he moved with pensive step. This was McDonald Clarke, whose +eccentric appearance and acts and whose melancholy verses gave him the +name of The Mad Poet. + +[Illustration: THE PARK THEATRE, PARK ROW, 1831.] + +If Broadway was his walk of an afternoon, Park Row was his haunt by +night; and Windust's place, a door or two below the Park Theatre +(literally below it, for it was beneath the sidewalk), was his +centring point. + +The resort of Edward Windust was not an old place, but a famous one. +It was opened in 1824 and lasted only until 1837, when the proprietor +thought himself cramped in space and opportunity and, moving away to +seek a larger field, found failure. It was the actors' museum of the +city. Its walls were lined with reminders of the stage: playbills, and +swords that had seen the service of savage mimic wars; pictures, and +frames of clippings, and bits of the wardrobes of kings and queens who +had strutted their brief hour and passed away. It was the nightly +gathering point of such actors as were in town, such writers, such +wits, such gallant gentlemen. Edmund Kean and the Wallacks, Harry +Placide and Cooper, Jack Scott, Mitchell, Brown, and Junius Brutus +Booth were frequenters, with Fitz-Greene Halleck, Willis, Morris, and +the rest, who nightly crowded the tier of stalls that ranged along one +side of the room, making them resound with gay and brilliant talk. + +In Windust's, too, sat McDonald Clarke in gloomy majesty night after +night. There he formed among many others the acquaintance of Mordecai +M. Noah, journalist and playwright, who had been Consul at Tunis and +who in the years to come was to start several unsuccessful papers, +until in 1843 he was to publish the _Sunday Times and Messenger_, +which continued for more than half a century. + +From Windust's McDonald Clarke often wandered out into the City Hall +Park over the way, and sat there through many a long summer night +dreaming over his _Elixir of Moonshine_, or, with the memory of his +afternoon walks upon him, composing lines for his _Afara, or the +Belles of Broadway_, and many another melancholy verse. Often he sat +there until daybreak, then went on into Broadway again. He had a +favorite early-morning stand on the Fulton Street side of St. Paul's +Churchyard, and there, an hour before the town was stirring, +soliloquized as he looked through the railings at the brown +tombstones. + +On these same mornings, but a few hours later, another writer looked +down on the same faded tombstones, for Ray Palmer was the teacher of a +young ladies' school down Fulton Street beyond Broadway. He was young +then, in his twenty-second year, in ill-health, and suffering under +discouragements that would have been unendurable to a weaker-dispositioned +man. As he looked from the school window into the churchyard he wrote +a hymn which remained in his desk for several years, until it was +published in quite an accidental manner by Dr. Lowell Mason, when he +needed material for a book of church music which he had compiled. In a +few years this hymn, _My Faith Looks Up to Thee_, was to be sung +oftener than any other American hymn. + +The sights and the sounds of the busy city that were an inspiration to +Ray Palmer always sent The Mad Poet in another direction,--on up +Broadway to Leonard Street, turning down there two short blocks to +Chapel Street, to the house where at that time he made his home. It +was a dreary enough street and a dismal enough upper room, but there +was a narrow window where the poet could look over the housetops in +the midnight hour and watch the stars that he seemed ever to hold +converse with. Or, if it was in the early evening, he had but to lean +forward from his window to see the people going into the Italian Opera +House on the next corner. The Italian Opera House had a great deal of +attraction for The Mad Poet. Not that he went there often to attend +the performances, but he liked to inspect it from his window height as +though he caught a glimpse of the sorrows and disappointments +connected with it. He had moved into the house in the year 1833--the +year that the opera house was opened after it had been built for a +company headed by Lorenzo Da Ponte. + +This Da Ponte had come to America in 1805, having a record as an +Italian dramatist, who had furnished libretti for Mozart's operas, +_Don Giovanni_ and _Nozze di Figaro_. He was professor in Columbia +College when he matured an idea for establishing a home for Italian +opera in New York, a plan which led to the building of the opera house +near which The Mad Poet lived. It opened splendidly with the singers +of the Cavalier di Rivafinoli, but a short season ended Lorenzo Da +Ponte's hopes. + +If The Mad Poet from his housetop could have seen what the next few +years had in store, he would have beheld the aged dramatist dying at +his home in Spring Street, close to Broadway, his body followed from +there by his mourning friends--Halleck and Verplanck and Woodworth and +some few others,--followed to the churchyard surrounding the nearby +St. Patrick's Church; he would have seen the mark above the grave +crumbling away, leaving nothing to point the spot where Da Ponte lay +buried with his dreams and his hopes. But no inspiration hinted any of +these things to McDonald Clarke, and once, in speaking of Da Ponte, he +said that there at least was a man who had lived long unrewarded but +had attained his ambition at last. + +For nine years after The Mad Poet went to the Chapel Street house his +Broadway walks continued, his dress each year growing more shabby, his +eye more downcast, and his verse more melancholy. Then one day he was +seen close by his favorite stand near the Churchyard of St. Paul's, +acting so strangely that he was thought to be intoxicated. Next +morning he awoke to find himself a prisoner in a vagrant cell, and the +shock to his sensitive nature sent him, a madman indeed, to the +Blackwell's Island Asylum, where in a few days he died. + +Years after, the author of _Glimpses of Home Life_, Emma C. Embury, +whose home was in Brooklyn, told of a knoll in Greenwood Cemetery by +the side of a little lake where the oak-trees shaded a modest tomb on +which there were some lines of verse. They were lines written by +McDonald Clarke. The tomb is there yet, still shaded by oaks that have +grown sturdier with the passing years, and the grave by the lake is +the grave of The Mad Poet. + + + + +Chapter VIII + +Those Who Gathered about Poe + + +When New York was a much younger city than it is, when it was well +within bounds on the lower part of the island of Manhattan, long +before there was a thought that it would overspread the island, jump +over a stream and go wandering up the mainland, overleap a river and +go spreading over another island to the sea,--long before the time +when these things came to be, there lay scattered in several +directions on the island of Manhattan and dotting the rolling country +land beyond, several tiny villages. These were Harlem, and Yorkville, +and Odellville, and Bloomingdale, and Chelsea, and Greenwich. The last +was the hamlet closest to the city. Quaint and curious, it spread its +scattered way along the Hudson River where houses had been set up +according to the needs and vagaries of men on roads natural and +unplanned. When the city grew larger and finally swept around +Greenwich Village, the roads becoming city streets, the village +continued a labyrinthian way, where strangers wandered and were lost +before they knew it. + +[Illustration: On Bloomingdale Road near 75th St. in Poe's time] + +In the very core of this old-time Greenwich section and at the very +place where the streets are so tangled, so irregular, so crooked, so +often no thoroughfare, so winding that they seem to be seeking out the +old farmhouses which they led to in early days, there is a pretty +little playground for children. This Hudson Park is an open spot with +green lawns and marble walks and a tall iron fence surrounding it; +quite a model park with everything about fresh, and new, and modern. +It is so very new and so very neat and so very clean that one would +not look there for old-time flavor. But curiously enough one thing +about it seems out of tone. On the green lawn is a monument old and +faded which, in an effort to match it with its natty surroundings, has +been set upon a base of glistening white marble. The monument is a +sort of key for the antiquarian, for without it this playground in its +spick-and-span newness might not be readily identified as the old St. +John's Burying-Ground, where once stood the accumulated tombstones of +more than fourscore years, until they were swept away and buried as +deep as those whose memories they marked. A new generation tramples +in and romps over the new park, with no knowledge or thought of what +is below the surface. + +The graveyard of St. John's was a quiet, restful place in a quiet, +restful locality in the year 1837, when Edgar Allan Poe had a habit of +wandering through it. In that year Poe lived within a few steps of the +burial-ground in a modest wooden house that was numbered 113 Carmine +Street. He was then in his twenty-eighth year, had published three +volumes of poems, and had written some short stories and criticisms. +He had but just given up the editorship of the _Southern Literary +Messenger_ at Richmond, a position he had secured through the +friendship of John P. Kennedy, who had been his friend in his early +struggles in Baltimore and who was to continue a friend to him through +all his life. In 1832 Poe had first met him, when Kennedy was writing +_Swallow Barn_. Afterwards Kennedy wrote _Horseshoe Robinson_ and +other books before abandoning literature for politics and, in time, +becoming Secretary of the Navy. + +[Illustration: The House in Carmine Street] + +So Poe came to New York, and with him Virginia, his child wife, who +was already marked a victim of consumption, and there in the Carmine +Street house they lived. Sometimes she walked with her sombre-faced +husband through the nearby burying-ground, but more often she sat at +an upper window from which she could watch him on his ramble. In the +same house lived William Gowans the bookseller of Nassau Street; and +there Poe did work for the _New York Quarterly Review_; there also he +finished _The Narrative of Arthur Gordon Pym_. + +In another house, some little distance away but in a direct course up +Carmine Street, in Sixth Avenue close by Waverley Place, Poe lived for +a short time, but long enough to write _The Fall of the House of +Usher_ and some magazine work, when he went to Philadelphia to _The +Gentleman's Magazine_, edited by William E. Burton, the famous +comedian. Oddly enough, when Burton died years afterwards, he found a +resting place in the obscure St. John's Burying-Ground. + +[Illustration: + +1. RICHARD HENRY STODDARD. +2. JOHN JAMES AUDUBON. +3. WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT. +4. BAYARD TAYLOR. +5. EDGAR ALLAN POE. +6. ROBERT FULTON.] + +It was not until 1844 that Poe returned to New York, and during the +years of his absence several writers with whom he was to become +acquainted on his return had forged their literary way. There was Seba +Smith, more generally known as "Major Jack Downing," from the +humorous papers which he wrote under that name, and who about this +time was writing the romance in verse called _Powhatan_. There was +William Ross Wallace, the lawyer and magazine writer, who in after +years was to be known through his poem of _The Liberty Bell_. There +was the Congregational clergyman George B. Cheever making his way, +having resigned his first pastorate, at Salem, Massachusetts, where he +had been imprisoned for libel on account of his temperance sketch +_Deacon Giles's Distillery_. There was Robert H. Messinger, known +through his Horatian ode, _Give Me the Old_, his fame daily expanding +in fashionable and literary circles. There was Edward Robinson, +Professor in the Union Theological Seminary, just returned from a tour +of exploration in Palestine with Rev. Eli Smith, publishing _Biblical +Researches in Palestine_. And there was Isaac McLelland, whose verse +was as good as his sportsmanship. These were some few of the men who +were first to recognize the genius of the poet. + +Poe returned to New York the wiser for his experience with _The +Gentleman's Magazine_ and with _Graham's Magazine_, but having failed +to establish _The Stylus_, a proposed publication of his own, which +during all his life was to be a vision of Tantalus, just beyond his +grasp. He returned rich in experience, strong in adversity, poor in +pocket. There was no glorious opening for him, and finally he accepted +a sub-editorship on the _Evening Mirror_, grinding out copy for +several hard-working hours each day. + +The _Evening Mirror_ was a newly started publication, but its +interests were so entwined with others that its history stretched back +something more than twenty years from the day when Poe first occupied +a desk in the office. Going back these one and twenty years, the +better to understand the atmosphere in which Poe worked, to the spring +of 1823, the time is reached when George P. Morris and Samuel +Woodworth joined forces and opened an office for the publication of +the _New York Mirror_ at 163 William Street. Morris was a young man +then, but already gave strong evidence of the decided character he was +to develop as an eminently practical printer and successful writer of +songs--a man of such unusual personal magnetism that well-nigh every +man who walked towards him a stranger walked away from him a friend. +The eight years which followed the starting of the _New York Mirror_ +saw many changes; saw Morris becoming more and more popular as a +writer of songs; saw him publishing the memorable _Woodman, Spare +that Tree_, that was to make his name known over the land; saw +Woodworth withdraw from the _Mirror_, and that publication +strengthened and starting anew when Morris drew to the enterprise +Theodore S. Fay and Nathaniel P. Willis; saw Fay going abroad in a few +years as Secretary of Legation at Berlin, in which city he was to live +out most of his life. + +N.P. Willis was a young man, too, in those early days of his +association with Morris. He had given up the _American Monthly +Magazine_ at Boston to devote his energies to the _New York Mirror_. +In the year that he became associated with Morris, 1831, he went +abroad at a salary of ten dollars a week, hoping to add strength and +diversity to the paper by a series of letters. In London, poor and +struggling, he managed to introduce himself into the fashionable set +at that time presided over by Lady Blessington, and he came to be the +adoration of all the sentimental young ladies in that set. There was a +daintiness about his dress, a suggestion of foppishness in the +arrangement of his blond hair, trifles about him which suggested the +dandy and the idler; but withal there was a terrific capacity for work +under the smooth outside. His letters to the _Mirror_ and other papers +did much for the refinement of literature and art, and, indirectly, +for the manners of the times. He was in America again in 1836, +bringing with him an English lady as a bride,--the Mary for whom the +country place Glen Mary at Owego was named, where he wrote his +delightful _Letters from under a Bridge_. He was again in Europe in +1839, soon starting _The Corsair_, and back to America in 1844, to +join his friend Morris (the _Mirror_ by this time being defunct) in +the starting of a daily paper which took the name of the _Evening +Mirror_. From this on Willis lived an active social-literary life, +singing of Broadway with the same facileness as he sang of country +scenes. He came to be a grave and patient invalid, living happily with +his second wife as he had with his first, and ending his days at +Idlewild,--his home on the Hudson. + +It was with the newly started _Evening Mirror_ that Poe became +connected on his return from Philadelphia, and it would seem that if +he ever had prospects bright to look forward to it was with the +fair-minded, business-like Morris and the gentle-hearted Willis. But +when Poe had continued with them a brief six months even that gentle +restraint proved too much. The _Evening Mirror_ did not last long +after his going, though this had little to do with its failure. Then +the indefatigable Morris, with Willis, started the _Home Journal_ at +107 Fulton Street, which continued into the twentieth century, and is +now known under its changed title of _Town and Country_. + +[Illustration: Where Poe wrote "The Raven"] + +While Poe was working on the _Mirror_ he lived with his frail wife +Virginia and her mother, Mrs. Clemm, in Bloomingdale Village. It was a +village indeed then, and about the scattered houses were broad roads +and shaded lanes and clustering trees. The house in which Poe lived +was on a high bluff beside a country road which is now Eighty-fourth +Street, the house standing (as the thoroughfares run now) between +Broadway and West End Avenue. It was a plain, square, frame dwelling +with brick chimneys reaching high above the pointed roof, kept by Mrs. +Mary Brennan, and Poe rented rooms of her. Two windows faced towards +the Hudson, and he could sit and looking through the trees catch a +silvery glimpse of the river. Here he wrote _The Raven_ and _The Imp +of the Perverse_. From here he sent _The Raven_ to the _American +Review_ at 118 Nassau Street, where it was published over the pen name +of "Quarles"; and he was still living here when the poem was reprinted +in the _Evening Mirror_, for the first time over his own name. + +[Illustration: POE'S COTTAGE AT FORDHAM. + +(From a drawing by C.W. Mielatz, by permission.) + +Copyright, 1899, by The Society of Iconophiles.] + +It had come to be the summer of 1845 when Poe left the _Evening +Mirror_ for the long black desk in lower Nassau Street where he helped +Charles F. Briggs conduct the _Broadway Journal_. Briggs was the +matter-of-fact "Harry Franco," a journalist of great ability who in +another ten years was to edit _Putnam's Magazine_ from 10 Park Place. +More than one of Poe's friends said that the combination of Harry +Franco and the poet must assuredly bring forth great literary results +and financial success. But the partnership did not work at all well. +In a very short time Poe bought out his partner's interest through an +arrangement with Horace Greeley and moved the office of the paper into +Clinton Hall. But the _Broadway Journal_ under the management of Poe +was less of a success than it had been under Briggs and Poe, and the +poet retired from it in the first month of 1846. + +This Clinton Hall in which Poe had his office was a substantial +building at the southwest corner of Nassau and Beekman streets. Temple +Court now stands on the site. A second and a third building of the +name have arisen in Astor Place, the second having been remodelled in +1854 from the Astor Place Opera House, the scene of the +Forrest-Macready riots. The present building, tall and heavy-looking, +is the home of the Mercantile Library, as each Clinton Hall has been +in its turn, and still retains the name first given to it in 1830, +when Governor De Witt Clinton presented a _History of England_ as a +nucleus for the library. + +About the time when Poe was with the _Broadway Journal_ he moved into +a house not a great many steps from Broadway, in Amity Street, since +renamed West Third Street. Here amid surroundings marked by a +simplicity due less to simple tastes than poverty Poe lived and wrote +by the side of the delicate wife who was wasting away before his eyes. +Here he penned the _Philosophy of Composition_, by which he would make +it appear that _The Raven_ was not a product of inspiration, but the +work of calm reason and artistic construction,--a theory which no one +seems to have accepted. Here, too, he wrote _The Literati of New +York_, a series of papers that appeared in _Godey's Lady's Book_, and +were the sensation of the hour in literary circles. Their criticisms +were severe and impassioned, and one of the criticised, believing +himself ill-treated and his writings unjustly abused, sought +vindication. His answer entirely overlooked the libel laws and he was +promptly sued for damages by Poe. This was Thomas Dunn English, a +young man then twenty-four years old, who a few years before, in 1843, +had been asked by N.P. Willis to write a poem for the _New Mirror_. +The poem was written and sent to Willis with the suggestion that he +either print it or tear it up as he thought best. Willis printed it, +and though the writer came to be known as a poet, author, physician, +lawyer, and statesman, the best known of his achievements were these +verses of _Ben Bolt_. + +In the spring of 1846, when the poet's wife grew more feeble, her +brilliant eyes more brilliant, and her pallid look more unearthly, Poe +moved out into the country to a little village called Fordham in +Westchester County. This was then far out from the city, a secluded +spot with rocky heights from which a view could be had of country +lanes and broad sweeps of meadow where farmers worked in the fields. +Since then the open landscape has given way to the regularity of city +streets and buildings. + +Not a great distance from the railroad station still stands the house +where Poe lived; such a plain, low wooden building that those that +have grown up around it seem to be shouldering it out of the way, and +the widening and improving of streets have pushed it somewhat aside +from its original position. But there the dingy little house still +stands with its veranda, where Poe walked in the night just outside +the sitting-room windows,--walked and dreamed out his _Eureka_. There +are the door and the dwarf hallway. Inside, to the right, is the room, +with its meagre furniture, much of which was purchased with the +proceeds of the suit against Thomas Dunn English, where Poe received +the friends who remembered him in his hours of illness, of poverty, +and distress. In a room towards the front lay the dying wife on her +straw bed, covered with the poet's coat and clasping the +tortoise-shell cat closely to her wasted form. Up the stairs is the +attic chamber, with its slanting roof, where Poe worked, with the cat +at his elbow; where after his wife's death he penned a dirge for her +in the exquisite _Annabel Lee_; where he wrote the first draught of +_The Bells_, which he was to revise and complete while on his lecture +trip to Lowell. Next to it is the room where slept Mrs. Clemm, his +more than mother. + +So many memories cling to this home of Poe that those who search for +substantial literary reminders have made it a visiting shrine, much to +the dismay of landowners who hold to the strong belief that +historic old houses are well enough as curiosities, but are +inconvenient things when they stand in the way of money-making +improvements. + +[Illustration: THE BATTERY IN 1830. + +(From a drawing by C. Burton.)] + +After passing through these rooms and with the memory of Poe strong +upon you, walk away along the street remembering that in Poe's time it +was a delightful country road. Stroll towards the Harlem River as he +wandered many a moonlight night, his brain busy with the deep problems +of _The Universe_. After a time you will pass on to the High Bridge, +that carried the pipes of the Croton Aqueduct over the river,--this at +least unchanged since his day. Walk over the path there, high above +the water, and visit the lonely spot where the suggestion came to Poe +for that requiem of despair, the mystic _Ulalume_. + +In the little wooden house at Fordham Poe lived, weak and lonely and +poor, after the death of his wife, making daily visits to her nearby +grave,--the grave that is there no longer. He was cared for by +Virginia's mother for something more than two years. Then in the June +of 1849 he left Fordham. Before the end of the year he was dead. + + + + +Chapter IX + +At the Close of the Knickerbocker Days + + +A bustling, energetic, but provincial city was New York between the +years 1830 and 1840, the last days of the Knickerbockers. After 1840 +it changed greatly, speeding rapidly on in the making of a metropolis. +Looking back now it is plain that the progress of enlargement went +steadily on year by year, but then the changes came on imperceptibly +enough. + +To any one who knows the great metropolis of this twentieth century, +it will seem remarkable that Hanover Square was the place where +merchants and jobbers most did congregate, and that the business part +of the city (and that really meant all the town in those times) lay +all below Canal Street. Beyond that was the country, crossed by sand +hills, watered by many rivulets, traversed by roads that led to the +country places of the wealthy or to popular wayside taverns. The main +thoroughfares looked wider than they do now, for they were far less +crowded, although there were busses, and coaches, and drays, and many +other vehicles of a variety that would look quite odd on the streets +of this day, and in fact anywhere except in old prints, for they +became extinct many a day ago. There were no surface roads, no +elevated roads, no clanging electric cars, no bicycles, no motor +carriages, no thousand and one conveniences of comfort and confusion +that inventive genius and modern methods have called forth. To be sure +the first street railroad in the world had just been projected and +the cars were about to run through the streets, but this was not as +yet established. + +The architectural appearance of the city was more meagre, more +uniform, far more picturesquely simple. There were wooden houses, +squat and irregular, and there were brick houses, low and solid; there +were no great towering structures to make one crane the neck to see +the top. It was a city where provinciality stared out at every corner, +a city which has been swept so entirely away that what is left of it +lingers only in odd nooks and corners and back streets where even the +oldest New Yorker has lost sight of it, and where visitors spend many +hours seeking out old-time curiosities in the byways of the +metropolis. + +[Illustration: Museum at the north end of the Park + +1825] + +The larger buildings of those days, the ones to catch the eye of a +stranger, are all memories now, and it is a difficult matter to say +even where they stood with any degree of certainty. There was Masonic +Hall in Broadway and Pearl Street, with its great chamber in imitation +of the Chapel of Henry VIII., that was quite the pride of the town, +and indeed looked upon as the most elegant reception-room in detail +and appointment to be found in America. Close by, on the other side of +the way, was Contoit's Garden, a delightful resort, where could be had +the finest of ices and cakes. Farther on the Apollo dancing-rooms were +a Mecca for the youth of the town. Opposite the lower end of City +Hall Park was Scudder's, the first museum in the city, the forerunner +of Barnum's, filled to overflowing with curiosities of earth and sea +and air. Across the way, on the opposite side of the park, was the +Park Theatre with its broad white front and its record as the chief +playhouse of the city, although there were hosts of admirers and +patrons of the Old Bowery, and of the National in Leonard Street, and +of the Olympic in Broadway, where Mitchell was established as a great +favorite. Out beyond the city was Niblo's Garden, newly established +and a real rural retreat; near to it, over on the Bowery Road, was the +old Vauxhall, fast losing caste as a place of outdoor amusement. In +Nassau Street the Middle Dutch Church still stood, its silvery bell +sounding over the city in which Sunday was a day set apart for +religious observance and had not come to be a day of merrymaking. + +[Illustration: THE APOLLO ROOMS IN 1830.] + +[Illustration: Niblo's Garden] + +It had come to be very near the end of the Knickerbocker days in this +quiet city where brimstone matches and india-rubber overshoes had just +been introduced,--indeed, it was close upon the year 1840,--when the +Astor House was a new structure talked about all over the land as a +wonderful palace. On the ground floor of this hotel John R. Bartlett +kept a well stocked book-shop, and not a day but it was much visited +by the literary folk of the town, for he was the friend of all bookish +people. He himself was a quiet, scholarly man, and it was there in his +shop, when his many friends left him leisure for work, that he +arranged the greater part of his _Dictionary of Americanisms_, by +which his name is remembered far better than by his historical +records,--remembered when the fact that he was Secretary of State in +Rhode Island is quite forgotten if it was ever widely known. + +One of the familiar figures in Bartlett's book-shop was a keen-eyed, +spectacled man who walked with quite a noticeable limp. This was +Charles Fenno Hoffman, a notable man of his time, whose song, +_Sparkling and Bright_, was on everybody's tongue. Thirty-four years +of his life were behind him, years that were full to overflowing. He +was a New Yorker in the full meaning of the term, and many of the +events of his active life had centred about the little book-shop. His +birthplace was only eight blocks away, there where the structure of +the Elevated Road throws its shadow over Greenwich Street at its +crossing with Rector. Those interested searchers who have visited the +house where Washington Irving boarded close by this same corner will +find the house where Hoffman was born nearby it. Thoughts of Irving +and Hoffman entwine themselves naturally and closely, for Hoffman's +half-sister was that Matilda who was affianced to Irving and whose +early death shadowed his whole life. + +Just around the corner from Bartlett's shop Hoffman went to school at +Columbia College, where the present Park Place now wends its way from +the river to Printing House Square. After leaving college he studied +law, but soon gave up that profession to become the associate editor +of the _American_ as the commencement of a literary career. In 1833 he +founded the _Knickerbocker_ magazine, and while conducting it enjoyed +the intimate fellowship of Harry Franco, William Cullen Bryant, Lewis +Gaylord Clark, William L. Stone, the brothers Duyckinck, Frederick S. +Cozzens, Park Benjamin, John L. Stephens, and a great many others in +the same field of writing. + +All this was behind him when he became a familiar figure in Bartlett's +shop; and more, too, for he had worked with N.P. Willis on the +_Mirror_, and had travelled far in the wild West despite an accident +in his youth which had crushed his leg between a boat and the wharf, +leaving him a life-long cripple. In this western journeying he +gathered material for _A Winter in the West_ and _Wild Scenes in +Forest and Prairie_. He had already written _Vanderlyn_, and now in +the book-shop was daily discussing his plans for _Grayslaer_. No hint +came to the minds of those who listened to his witty talk in idle +hours at the book-shop that in another ten years he would be taken +from his last city home in Greene Street to live out the remaining +thirty-four years of his life in the asylum at Harrisburg, Pa., a +mental wreck. + +It was Hoffman who introduced Lewis Gaylord Clark to the book-shop. +Clark had been associated with him on the _Knickerbocker_ magazine, +and it was Clark who continued that publication for many years in the +office on Broadway, just south of Cortlandt Street. To the office very +often went his twin brother, Willis Gaylord Clark, editor of the +Philadelphia _Gazette_, who contributed his now long-forgotten verse +to his brother's magazine almost to the day of his death. + +It was quite natural that John L. Stephens should make Bartlett's +book-shop a headquarters while he was in town, for Bartlett and he +were firm friends of years' standing, and their minds ran along in +very much the same historical groove. Many a story the famous +traveller recounted to his friend and to the others who were gathered +there, and his presence was eagerly looked for. He had been to Egypt +and had written from there letters that were published in the +_Knickerbocker_ when Hoffman was at its head. He had been to Arabia, +to Poland, and to half a dozen other countries, and had written of his +travels with a straightforward directness that was very much like his +clear ringing talk. His visits to the book-shop happened years before +he became interested in the Panama Railroad, for when this project +came to his hand he devoted so much of himself to the building of the +road across the Isthmus that he gave little time to writing. + +Another man who lingered in the book-shop more than any of the others +was a sort of _protege_ of Clark's, since Clark had in a great +measure discovered him. His name was Frederick S. Cozzens, a wine +merchant, and almost every afternoon he walked from his place around +the next corner in Vesey Street, the second block below Broadway. It +was Clark who recognized him as a humorist long before any one else +appreciated him. His merry conversation was a delightful incident in +the book-shop years and years before he moved to Yonkers and was then +a great deal talked about as the author of the _Sparrowgrass Papers_. + +This book-shop was a veritable treasury of literary secrets, for if +there was to be anything new in the literary world it was sure to be +spoken of there before it was rumored about anywhere else. In this way +the book-shop was first to hear of the publication of that journal of +books and opinions, _Arcturus_, for Evert A. Duyckinck was one of the +_habitues_ there. This is the author who, seven years later, with his +brother George was to start the publication of _The Literary World_; +and these are the brothers Duyckinck who while editing this +publication collected material and wrote their _Encyclopaedia of +American Literature_, which gave them fame long after both were dead. + +The publication of literary periodicals was in the air that year of +1840, and the little book-shop, being a literary world unto itself, +heard of all of them in turn before public announcement was made. +James Aldrich, who four years before had given up a prosperous +business for a writer's career, projected his _Literary Gazette_, in +which most of his poems afterwards appeared; and Park Benjamin, rather +a newcomer in the town, it having been only three years since he +transferred his _New England Magazine_ to New York under the title of +the _American Monthly Magazine_, the same year established _Our New +World_. He was a pleasant, affable man, and his companions at +Bartlett's place thought much of the author of _The Old Sexton_. + +William Cullen Bryant lived in New York through these last days of +Knickerbocker life and still lived there when these times were looked +back upon as a period of great good-fellowship. He arrived in the city +a young man, scarcely known, but he lived to be old, still a citizen, +so entwined with the literary, social, and business interests that +innumerable places can be pointed out to-day as bearing closely upon +the poet's life and suggesting many reminders of himself and his work. + +In the far down-town, in Broadway at the Pine Street corner, these +memories start. At that corner, in a building long gone now, when +Bryant was quite a stranger in the city, he edited the _New York +Review and Athenaeum_, in which his own poem, _Death of the Flowers_, +was published, and in which Halleck's _Marco Bozzaris_ first appeared. +In his office there Bryant often talked with Percival and with +Hillhouse, and there he discussed with Verplanck and Sands what manner +of verse he would contribute to the newly started _Talisman_ magazine. + +Up Broadway a little farther, at the Fulton Street corner, is the +publication office of the _Evening Post_, a building which more than +any other in New York should call forth thoughts of Bryant, for he was +the editor of that newspaper for two-and-fifty years. When he joined +the staff in 1826, in two years succeeding Coleman as editor and +remaining so until his death, the _Evening Post_ had its office in +William Street, near Pine. But Bryant spent many years of his +editorial life in the Broadway building, and one of its attractions, +now pointed out to all visitors, is the poet's window on an upper +floor where he sat at his desk, that was always stacked high and +negligently with all manner of useless papers and rejected +manuscripts, and looked over the city to the south as he worked. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF OLD BUILDINGS IN WILLIAM STREET, LOOKING +TOWARDS MAIDEN LANE, 1800.] + +Standing beside this window there are memories of other men than +Bryant to be called up, for here remembrance of many of his associates +comes vividly to mind. There was William Leggett, the poet's friend +and business companion, the brilliant journalist who wrote _Tales of a +Country Schoolmaster_, and who worked beside Bryant from 1829 to 1836. +With thoughts of him come those of Parke Godwin, who joined the +_Evening Post_ staff the year after Leggett left it, who as long as +the poet lived was his close friend, and who, marrying Bryant's +daughter Fanny, wove closer year by year the relations that bound +them. There are memories, too, of John Bigelow, who occupied an +editorial chair on the _Post_ for a dozen years after 1849. + +Going still farther up Broadway in search of Bryant reminders, you +walk past the Post-Office and over the stretch of pavement made +historic by the personal encounter between the poet and William L. +Stone. This happened in 1831, and Stone, then editor of the +_Commercial Advertiser_, was not at all friendly to Bryant. The two +met there on the parkside, just opposite where Philip Hone lived, and +Hone, looking from his window, saw the encounter. Sitting down he +immediately wrote of it in the diary which is such a perfect +reflection of the city's history during the first half of the +nineteenth century. + +Those were the days when Stone was collecting his information +concerning the Indians which he afterwards utilized to such advantage +in _The Life of Joseph Brant_, _The Life of Red Jacket_, and kindred +books. + +Keeping on up Broadway to Leonard Street, thence over across town +three blocks west to 92 Hudson Street, the stroller comes to a +warehouse that has been reared above the home where Bryant lived when +he became editor of the _Evening Post_ and from which he often walked +around the corner to 345 Greenwich Street to make an evening call on +his near neighbor and friend J. Fenimore Cooper. + +On a little farther, up Varick Street this time, past the old Chapel +of St. John's, lingering in its stately age quiet and dignified amid +the unwholesome neighbors that have grown up around it. On the very +next block, close by Canal Street, there is a red brick house with +stone steps, and here Bryant lived after his removal from Hudson +Street. + +This same Varick Street leads straight north for half a mile until it +touches Carmine Street, and in the second block of that thoroughfare +is the house of age-worn brick that was the poet's "home in Carmine +Street," of which he spoke so often and so affectionately. + +From this point, a walk due east straight across town to the Bowery is +as direct a route as could be found to the house where Bryant boarded +in Fourth Street near the Bowery. It was here he entertained the +friendly Unitarian clergyman, Orville Dewey, and discussed poetry with +him. Here too he began the acquaintance with his fellow-lodger, Parke +Godwin, without a thought that Godwin would one day be his son-in-law, +without a thought that they would walk side by side through a literary +life for close upon half a century. + +Still on up-town, this time to Union Square. Between that green spot +and Irving Place in Fifteenth Street, you come upon the home of the +Century Club in its early days, when it was the chief place in America +for the entertainment of men of letters. This club, founded by Bryant, +was presided over at various times by Bancroft, Verplanck, and men +whose names are equally well remembered. Bryant was the president when +he died. The club now has a sumptuous home in Forty-third Street near +Fifth Avenue. + +Last home of all of Bryant in New York is the brownstone house next to +the College of St. Francis Xavier, in Sixteenth Street. Here he lived +during the last years of his life when he was not passing the long +spring and summer months at his well-beloved Cedarmere at Roslyn, Long +Island, which had been his favorite abiding place since 1843. It was +in this Sixteenth Street house that he wrote his last lines of +verse--on the birthday of Washington; it was here that he died. + +One more structure not a great distance away calls up strongly the +memory of Bryant. In Fourth Avenue at Twentieth Street is picturesque +All Souls' Church, which has been there since 1855. Built of brick +trimmed with Caen stone, planned in the form of a Greek cross, it was +the first example of the Byzantine style of architecture in America. +It was to have a tall, square, tower-like steeple, but this was never +built. To this church the body of Bryant was taken, and there in the +presence of all literary New York, and while the whole city mourned, +Dr. Bellows, who had been his long-time friend, preached his funeral +sermon. + + + + +Chapter X + +Half a Century Ago + + +Like many a landed estate, like many a quiet village, like many a +battle-ground, like many a winding and historic road, like so many +other places of interest of which the island of Manhattan has been the +scene in days agone--Minniesland is not easy to locate. Relentlessly +and remorselessly the great masses of brick and mortar have forged +ahead in their furtherance of the city's growth, seeking a level as +they spread, dominating the island, levelling the hills, and +stretching over valleys until the surface of the land is altered +beyond all knowing. Minniesland is one of the almost buried districts +of the great city. Its last surviving relic, a square ornamental +structure, is the one token that it ever existed. Now that the town +has surrounded this building, and streets have cut through and +mutilated the first plan of the district, this house may be found +standing where One Hundred and Fifty-fifth Street slopes down to the +Hudson River. Enter it; pass through its ancient halls, and, standing +on its porch, blot from the mind the spot as it is and reconstruct it +as it was half a century ago. + +Fifty years ago the city was far away there to the south, and this +house, miles and miles away up-country, was at the edge of a forest +stretching down the hillside to the river. There were other farmhouses +around it. To the north was the mansion where Colonel Morris had lived +before the Revolution; where Madame Jumel in later days had married +Aaron Burr. To the south was the square frame building, close by a +clump of thirteen trees, where Alexander Hamilton had lived and where +his widow stayed on after his death. + +Forgetting for a moment these old-time surroundings of the house by +the forest edge, turn to the building itself, and imagine at the +window a man sitting. He has long hair and clear blue eyes. He is +painting at a small easel and working in quite a wonderful manner, for +he is ambidextrous. He stops in his work and looks over the trees +towards the Hudson. If that ever-moving river recalls to him his past +life, John James Audubon, ornithologist, is reviewing a strange and +adventurous career in many countries, full of losses, of suffering, of +changes, of perils. He thinks of himself as a boy wandering through +the dense, hot wilds of San Domingo; as a youth hard at his art +studies in Paris under the master David; as a man at his father's +country place on the Schuylkill, failing utterly and absolutely when +he goes into business, and letting his father's fortune slip away from +his nerveless grasp. He remembers, too, his marriage, and how his wife +followed his restless career with unchanging love and remained always +a balance-wheel to his impetuosity. He recalls how, through all the +changes of that early and unsettled life, the naturalist-love born in +him when he roamed the tropical home of his youth was always strongest +in his nature, and was constantly cropping out in his mania for +collecting beautiful things that were quite worthless from a +commercial point of view, just as it was shown in his personal +appearance; for his manner of dressing, always with his hair falling +over his shoulders, marked him as a man regardless of conventionality, +a man so bound within the circle of his own thoughts that he had +little time or inclination to peek out and see which way the world was +moving. + +[Illustration: Audubon's Home + +156th St. and N. River] + +Audubon had passed through the hardest struggles of his life, had +travelled in England, in France, in Scotland, arranging for the +publication of his bird pictures, that remarkable work which set his +memory apart; he had succeeded in his life's object, and at the close +of 1840 had come here to this forest hillside by the Hudson, built +the house on the estate Minniesland, named in honor of his wife, made +it a luxurious abode, and there gathered his friends about him. + +With this home of Audubon there is associated a memory of the early +days of the telegraph. When Samuel F.B. Morse built the first +telegraph line to Philadelphia, he had it strung across the river from +Fort Lee to the basement of Audubon's house, and there he received the +first telegraphic message ever sent to the island of Manhattan. Here +Audubon lived, wrote, and painted until even his rugged strength was +worn out. He worked until those clever ambidextrous hands lost the +cunning to work out the forms his active brain could still conceive. +The day came, in 1851, when he died, fortunately before any great +change had come over the beauties of Minniesland. The peacefulness of +Trinity Cemetery, which takes in part of the Audubon farm, is still +faintly reminiscent of the scene of the ornithologist's later life, +and there, close by the old house, is the grave of Audubon, and upon +his tomb are sculptured the birds he loved so well, now keeping watch +over him. + +[Illustration: Clement C. Moore's House + +Chelsea] + +While Audubon worked in his out-of-town retreat, another scholar and +writer lived farther down the island towards the city. Clement C. +Moore lived in a little district of his own called Chelsea Village, +now merged into the city by so deft a laying out of streets that there +is little irregularity at the point where town and village met. A bit +of the old village remains exactly as it was in the General +Theological Seminary, and the block on which it stands, Twentieth to +Twenty-first streets, Ninth and Tenth avenues, is still called Chelsea +Square. Clement C. Moore inherited from his father, Bishop Benjamin +Moore, a large tract of land along the river near the present Chelsea +Square, and gave the land on which the seminary was built to that +institution. He himself lived in a house which his father had occupied +before him and which stood on the line of the present Twenty-third +Street on the block between Ninth and Tenth avenues. It was a very old +building, renowned for the fact that General Washington had stopped +there one afternoon when he had his headquarters in the city. Clement +C. Moore was a professor in the General Theological Seminary, and +while there compiled the first Greek and Hebrew lexicons ever +published in this country. But it is not by reason of his learned +books or his philanthropy that his name is best recalled, but by a +poem which he wrote for his children and of which the world at large +might never have known but that it was sent without his knowledge and +published in an up-State paper. This poem, the Christmas classic of +_The Visit of St. Nicholas_, begins with "'T was the night before +Christmas," and its simple yet merry jingle and delightful +word-pictures have endeared it to all children since his time and will +endure to please many more to come. + +All that there was of literary New York half a century ago centred +about Anne C. Lynch. She established a circle, a gathering which +increased or fell off in numbers as men and women of brains came and +went. This was the first near approach to a _salon_ in this country. +In the early days of her coming to the city, Miss Lynch lived in a +neat-appearing brick house in Waverly Place, just off Washington +Square. She moved elsewhere from time to time, the literary coterie +moving about as she moved. At the height of her success, in 1855, she +married the Italian educator, Vincenzo Botta, then in his second year +in New York and occupying a professorship of Italian literature in the +University of New York. The receptions of Mrs. Botta flourished and +were as popular as had been those of Miss Lynch. Her writings, too, +went on, and her most widely known work, the material for which she +gathered during her intimate personal association with many authors, +the _Handbook of Universal Literature_, was written when she lived in +Thirty-seventh Street, a few doors west of Fifth Avenue. + +In the early years of Anne C. Lynch's receptions, one of her intimates +was Caroline M. Kirkland, the friend of Bayard Taylor. Mrs. Kirkland, +who had just returned after a residence in Michigan, sought her advice +before she published _Forest Life_, which was the second of her +descriptions of the sparsely settled region where she had spent three +years of her life. The intimacy between these two continued for years, +indeed until Mrs. Kirkland died, in 1864, stricken with paralysis +while under the strain of managing a great sanitary fair during the +Civil War. + +Through Mrs. Kirkland, Lydia M. Child was introduced at the Lynch +receptions, when she was associated with her husband in conducting the +_National Anti-Slavery Standard_. She had been a writer since her +youth, having published her first book, _Hobomok_, in 1821. Her works +had been much read, but lost much of their popularity after she +published the first anti-slavery book in America, in 1833, under the +title _An Appeal for that Class of Americans Called Africans_. She +ever remained prominent as an abolitionist, but because of her +opinions lost caste as a writer of novels. But Miss Lynch cared little +what opinions any one held so long as they really had opinions and +would stand by them, and Mrs. Child was welcomed to her home until she +left the city, in 1844, to spend the rest of her life in Wayland, +Massachusetts. + +Very often Edgar Allan Poe attended the Lynch receptions, taking with +him his delicate wife, who seemed to get better for the moment when +she saw her husband the centre of a notable gathering. For even here +Poe had quite a following of his own. It was on one of these evenings +that he gave it as his opinion that _The Sinless Child_ was one of the +strongest long poems ever produced in America. This poem was just +then making a great stir and on this special evening had been the +subject of much discussion. The author was present, as she usually was +where writers congregated, for the beautiful and witty Elizabeth Oakes +Smith carried enthusiasm and inspiration wherever she went. She found +time to form part of many a circle, even though her days were well +filled, for she assisted her husband, "Major Jack Downing," in his +editorial work. For many a year before she finally retired to +Hollywood, South Carolina, she held her place as the first and only +woman lecturer in America. + +[Illustration: + +1. W.D. HOWELLS. +2. J.G. HOLLAND. +3. RICHARD GRANT WHITE. +4. BRANDER MATTHEWS. +5. WILLIAM WINTER. + +From an engraving of the picture by J.H. Marble; courtesy of Mr. W.E. +Benjamin.] + +Another dear friend of Poe's might usually be found at these +receptions. "Estella" Lewis, the poet, lived in Brooklyn and held +there quite a court of clever people. The time came when she was, +indeed, a friend in need to Poe in his time of dire necessity at +Fordham. It was at her Brooklyn home that he read _The Raven_ before +it was published, and Estella Lewis was the last friend he visited +before he left New York on the journey south which ended in his death. + +On the "Poe nights," too, Ann S. Stephens was usually to be found at +Miss Lynch's. She became a much-read novelist, writing _Fashion and +Famine_ and _Mary Derwent_. On these nights, too, might be seen +Margaret Fuller, the transcendentalist. She had left her Massachusetts +home to take her place with Horace Greeley as literary editor of the +_Tribune_, and between whiles devoted herself to charitable work in an +effort to better the social condition of the poor of the metropolis. +During most of her stay she lived in a locality much changed since her +time, near where Forty-ninth Street touches the East River. A +picturesque spot it was, overlooking the green stretches of +Blackwell's Island, in the midst of suburban life. Her stay in New +York was short. After a year or so she went to Europe and in Italy +married the Marquis Ossoli. She was on her way back to America, in +1850, a passenger in the merchantman _Elizabeth_, when the ship was +wrecked off Fire Island and she perished with it. + +To this group of writers also belongs Frances Sargent Osgood. While, +somewhere about the year 1846, the country was ringing with her +praise, she was living the secluded life of an invalid, with her +husband, in what was then becoming a fashionable neighborhood, 18 East +Fourteenth Street. Once, in 1845, she had met Poe, had been instantly +attracted by him, and became thereafter his staunch admirer, +expressing her opinion persistently whenever opportunity offered. He, +on his part, appreciated her poetic genius, and more than once +referred to the scrupulous taste, faultless style, and magical grace +of her verse. And several of his poems are addressed directly to her. + +There was a young man named Richard Henry Stoddard who frequented the +Lynch receptions. He had worked for six years in a foundry learning +the trade of iron moulder, and writing poetry as he worked. By the +year 1848 he was beginning to make a name for himself, and his first +volume of poems, _Footnotes_, had just been published. At Miss Lynch's +house he met Miss Elizabeth Barstow, herself a poet, and some time +later visited her at her home in Mattapoisett. This led to their +marriage. Early in the year of his meeting with Miss Barstow, Stoddard +made the acquaintance of Bayard Taylor. Taylor had already travelled +on foot over Europe, had crystallized the results of these travels in +_Views Afoot_, and was then working under Greeley on the _Tribune_, as +one of the several editors. Side by side with him worked that +pure-hearted and thoughtful man who had been the instigator and +supporter of the Brook Farm experiment, George Ripley, who wrote the +_Tribune's_ book criticisms. + +_Views Afoot_ was the most popular book of the day when Stoddard +walked into the _Tribune_ office and introduced himself to the author, +finding him very hard at work in a little pen of a room. This was the +start of a friendship which lasted for thirty years, and was only +broken in upon by death. + +A few days after, Stoddard called upon Taylor, who then lived in +Murray Street, a few steps from Broadway. Charles Fenno Hoffman, who +occupied rooms in the same building, was then beginning to show signs +of the mental breakdown which was to cloud the last thirty-four years +of his life. But Hoffman was prosperous and occupied luxurious +quarters on the ground floor, while Taylor, despite the popularity of +his book, led a life of hard work and struggle. He was ill paid for +his services on the _Tribune_, as Greeley did not believe in high +salaries, and he lived up four flights of stairs in a sort of +two-roomed attic. There Stoddard went almost every Saturday after his +labors at the iron foundry, and there the friendship strengthened week +by week; there Taylor taught Stoddard to smoke; there they discussed +books and writers, and there wrote poetry together. There Taylor wrote +_Kubleh_ and _Ariel in the Cloven Pine_, and, too, the song that won +for him a prize when Barnum invited the entire country to a +competition in writing a song for Jenny Lind. Taylor was visited by a +great many friends, and with them the youthful Stoddard became +acquainted. Sometimes to the house in Murray Street came Rufus W. +Griswold, author of _Poets and Poetry of America_, _Prose Writers of +America_, and kindred works. He had been one of Taylor's early +advisers. The diplomatist and playwright, George H. Boker, often made +one of the party at this time, when his tragedy, _Calaynos_, was being +acted with great success at Sadlers's Wells Theatre in England. +Another visitor was Richard Kimball, the lawyer-author, then +enthusiastically putting the finishing touches to _St. Leger_. + +These days of changing fortunes were the most romantic of Taylor's +career. Many other places in the city are associated with him, one a +house near Washington Square, where he lived for some years and wrote +among other things the _Poems of the Orient_. His last city home was +at 142 East Eighteenth Street. There he wrote _Deukalion_, and from +there he started out, after being dined and feted, on his mission as +United States Minister to Germany. In England he met Carlyle. In Paris +he had a "queer midnight supper" with Victor Hugo. In Germany, though +he was then quite an ill man, he threw himself into official business +with an energy that his constitution, worn by years of persistent hard +work, would not warrant. Before the end of the year, the friends in +America who had wished him farewell in April, congratulating him that +he had attained an honor that he prized, knew that he lay dead in +Berlin. + + + + +Chapter XI + +Two Famous Meeting-Places + + +Looking backward to the days before the Civil War is to bring into +review a host of men who then walked through the city in which time +has wrought so many changes, and to bring to the mind's eye familiar +streets, but so altered that they seem like unknown highways. + +There was the Battery, with its old-time appearance, when the green +grass of summer was not cast into deep and continual shade by an +overhanging device of modern travel, and when its broad walk was a +promenade, the like and popularity of which was not to be found +elsewhere. There stood squat Castle Garden, half in the water and half +on the land, of nondescript style of architecture, suggesting a means +of defence against an invading force and giving cause for wonder as to +how it ever came by the flowery half of its name. + +Wandering swiftly through the lower end of the town, memory recalls +old houses whose begrimed fronts bore the markings of a good hundred +years. There, by the Bowling Green, was where Washington and Putnam +had their headquarters. Farther up-town a hotel arose where Franconi's +Hippodrome had been. Still farther along was Murray Hill, where there +was just enough elevation of land to account in a measure for its +name. Still farther on were country places beyond the town--beyond the +town then, but now come to be the very heart's core of the metropolis. + +But of all the points of interest none comes fresher to the mind than +Broadway. And though they have all changed, some swept away, some +freshened up, others reconstructed into modern ways and made to keep +pace with the progress of the passing days, no change or series of +changes have brought about such complete renewal, if the reminiscent +eye of the mind is to be believed, as has come to Broadway. Blotting +out for the moment the city's chief canyon of travel as it is to-day, +with its brobdingnagian structures, and its sights and sounds of +business and pleasure and enterprise, let the highway of old take its +place. As far back as fifty years ago, residences were gradually +metamorphosed into business hives, but they managed to retain much of +their conservative appearance for a long time, as though a battle were +being waged as to whether Broadway should be a place of homes or a +business thoroughfare. Trees by the curb line waved their branches in +angry protest against commercial encroachments and in opposition to +great glaring signs that blurted out business announcements in a +bold-faced manner, that argued they had come to stay. While the +Broadway of to-day gives the impression of narrowness because of the +height of the sky-scrapers that border it, it then looked exceedingly +wide. It was never a quiet street, for a continual procession of +omnibuses and other vehicles on business and pleasure bent streamed +along it. Among the popular resorts at which they often stopped was +Charles Pfaff's, where beer was sold. There of an evening met the +literary Bohemians of the city, in the days when Bohemia really +existed and before the word had well-nigh lost significance and +respect. They were gifted men with great power of intellect, who +spoke without fear and without favor and whose every word expressed a +thought. They were real men and they made the world a real place, a +place without affectation, without pretence, without show, without +need of applause, and without undue cringing to mere conventional +forms. These were the characteristics of the Bohemians, and Bohemia +was wherever two or three of them were gathered together. Bohemia was +the atmosphere they carried with them, and whether upon the streets or +in Pfaff's cellar they were at home. Pfaff's happening to be a +convenient gathering-place, and beer happening to be the popular brew +with most of them, they gathered there. + +It is a tradition that the place came into favor through the personal +efforts of the energetic Henry Clapp. He was attracted to it, so the +tradition runs, soon after he started the _Saturday Press_ in 1858, +that lively publication, so brilliant while it lasted, so soon to die, +and at its death having pasted on its outer door an announcement which +read: "This paper is discontinued for want of funds, which by a +coincidence is precisely the reason for which it was started." Whether +it is true or not that Clapp was the first to call attention to the +resort that came to be the meeting-place of the Bohemians, matters +little. It grew to be such a meeting-place, and it is quite true that +the members of the staff of the _Saturday Press_ did more than any one +else to give it a name that has lived through the years. + +It is hard to locate Pfaff's place now. Go to look for it on the east +side of Broadway, above Bleecker Street three or four doors, and you +will be disappointed, for there is nothing to locate--just a +conventional business house. Take an idle hour and picture it in +memory; that will be better. Thinking of it now it is quite natural to +contrast it with modern eating- and drinking-houses, famous for their +mirror-lined walls, richly carved appointments, carpeted floors, and +flashing electric lights. Pfaff's was a hole beneath the surface of +the street, ill-lighted, ill-ventilated, ill-kept. But it is far +better to read George Arnold's poem embodying the spirit of the +cellar, and recording how the company was "very merry at Pfaff's." +This poet was one of the merry company in the days when he wrote +regularly for the columns of _Vanity Fair_. He has himself said that +some of the poems were written in the late hours after an evening +spent in the underground Broadway resort with Fitz-Hugh Ludlow, with +Mortimer Thomson, the famous "Q. K. Philander Doesticks," and a score +of like writers. It was Arnold, too, who caused an hour of sadness +when he took there the story of the death of Henry W. Herbert, who was +well known to all the habitues. They all knew his life's story; they +had heard him tell of his father, the Dean of Manchester and cousin to +the Earl of Carnarvon; they had heard him tell how he had come to New +York from London, how he had taught in the school in Beaver Street +near Whitehall, and how in that little school he had partly written +his historical romance _Cromwell_, and how he had mapped out some of +the others that followed it. They knew, too, how he had, under the +name of "Frank Forester," produced such books as _American Game in its +Season_, _The Horse and Horsemanship in North America_, and become +famous by novel-writing. He was the first to introduce sports of the +field into fiction in America. Some of his comrades knew the +unhappiness that had crept into his life, but even his dearest friends +were not prepared for the news which Arnold brought one day, that +"Frank Forester" had died by his own hand in a room on the second +floor of the Stevens House, there in Broadway by the Bowling Green, +not more than the throw of a stone from the place where, in his early +days in New York, he had taught school. + +Another friend of George Arnold's, who sometimes spent hours with him +at Pfaff's, was George Farrar Browne, but few will remember him by +this name, while many will recall that which he made famous, Artemus +Ward. He had passed his apprenticeship as a printer and reporter, had +made the country ring with the name of the lively but illiterate +showman, and was in New York trying to carry _Vanity Fair_ to +success--a task which he could not accomplish. + +Another of the Pfaff company was Thomas Bailey Aldrich. This was at a +time when he had editorial charge of the _Saturday Press_ after he had +come from Portsmouth and served three years at his desk in the +commission house of his rich uncle. Working over the books of the +firm, his mind was often busy with themes outside of the commission +house, all tending towards a literary career. + +Another lounger at Pfaff's whose name has become famous in the world +of letters was William Winter, who was sometimes a visitor. Howells +went there on his first visit to New York and dined with Walt Whitman, +and there were others--Bayard Taylor and Stedman among them. + +[Illustration: The University Building] + +It was only a few minutes' walk from Pfaff's to Washington Square, +and there could be found the substantial-appearing University +building, where Theodore Winthrop had his office and where he wrote +_Cecil Dreeme_ and _John Brent_. From that gloomy building he was +called to the war, and to his home there friends brought the details +of his death--shot through the heart while rallying his men in an +attack which he had helped to plan at the action of Big Bethel in +June, 1861. At the time of his death he was scarcely known as a +writer, and it was not until the publication of _Cecil Dreeme_ that +the world realized that it had lost an entertaining story-teller as +well as a brave soldier when Winthrop fell. + +Among others who served in the Seventh Regiment of New York, of which +Theodore Winthrop was a member, was Fitz-James O'Brien, the erratic +and brilliant journalist, whose tale of _The Diamond Lens_ was his +best contribution to the literature of the day. The only literary man +of the Seventh to return to New York was O'Brien's friend, Charles +Graham Halpine, who resigned, and lived to make his name famous by his +humorous sketches of army life supposed to have been penned by +"Private Miles O'Reilly." + +The name of Winthrop naturally suggests the name of Dr. John W. +Draper, who was associated with the University of New York for more +than thirty years. His technical writings made his name known over the +world, and he spent many years of his life in the dingy old University +building working on a _History of Intellectual Development in Europe_. + +[Illustration: The Studio Building in West 70th St.] + +Fitz-James O'Brien has told of how he was once sent by a newspaper to +see Henry T. Tuckerman, in a big brown building in Tenth Street. This +studio building, just east of Sixth Avenue, is there yet, and the room +on the second floor where O'Brien had his talk with the scholarly +essayist and critic may be seen. At that time Tuckerman was writing +_The Criterion; or, The Test of Talk about Familiar Things_. In this +large room overlooking the street it was his custom on Sunday evenings +to entertain his literary friends. + +Another home where there were Sunday-evening gatherings for many years +was that of Alice and Phoebe Cary. This house, one of the few +residences remaining in a neighborhood otherwise given up to business +structures to-day, is numbered 53 on East Twentieth Street. Here the +Carys lived when they made their home in this city, coming from their +Ohio birthplace to a wider field of activity. You can walk now into +the little parlor where the gatherings were held. You can go into the +room above, where Phoebe worked--when she found time; for in the +joint housekeeping of the sisters Phoebe often said that she had to +be the housekeeper before she could be the poet. In that room she +wrote, after coming from church one Sunday, the hymn which has made +her name famous and well-beloved, _Nearer My Home_. + +[Illustration: 53 EAST 20th St.] + +There on the same floor was the favorite work-corner of Alice, and +sitting close by the window, where she could look out into the street, +she wrote many of her poems of memory and of domestic affection. In +this room, too, she died. + +To recite the names of those Sunday-evening callers would be to recall +all the writers in the city at that time, and to mention all those +prominent in the world of letters who came from out of town. James +Parton was often one of the company, in the days when he was arranging +the material for his _Life of Horace Greeley_, material gathered from +those who had known the great editor during his early days in New +Hampshire and Vermont. Greeley himself dropped in occasionally, and +also another member of the _Tribune_ staff, Richard Hildreth, the +writer from Massachusetts, who had been associate editor of the Boston +_Atlas_ and who in after years was United States Consul at Trieste. + +Herman Melville was invited to the Twentieth Street house at the time +when he was at work on his _Battle Pieces_, and could look back on +years of adventure by land and by sea, and on the hardships that had +supplied him with the material from which to write so much that was +odd and interesting. At one of these Sunday-night receptions, at which +Alice Cary introduced him first, Melville told the company, and told +it far better than he had ever written anything (at least so one of +his hearers has recorded), the story of that life of trial and +adventure. He began at the beginning, telling of his boyhood in New +York, of his shipping as a common sailor, and of his youthful +wanderings in London and Liverpool. In true sailor fashion, and with +picturesque detail, he spun the tale of his eighteen months' cruise to +the sperm fisheries in the Pacific, and held his hearers' close +attention while he related the coarse brutality of his captain, who +had forced him to desert at the Marquesas Islands. Then he traced his +wanderings with his one companion through the trackless forest on the +island of Nukahiva and of his capture by the Typee cannibals. He +related how there was little hope in his heart that he could ever +escape, but that he still held tight to life and his courage did not +desert him; how with the thought of death before him by night and by +day he yet hourly studied the strange life about him and garnered +those facts and fancies which he afterwards used to such advantage in +his successful _Typee_. It was a thrilling tale to listen to, in +strange contrast to his humdrum later life when he was an employee of +the New York Custom House. When you go to see the home of the Cary +sisters, walk on a few blocks to East Twenty-sixth Street, and there +see the house numbered 104. On this site stood Melville's house, where +he lived for many years and where, when he had come to be an old man, +he died. + +Mary L. Booth was another visitor to the home of the Cary sisters, and +with them she talked over a great many details of her _History of the +City of New York_, which she was at that time energetically engaged +upon. And there this future editor of _Harper's Bazar_ met Martha J. +Lamb when Mrs. Lamb came to the city from Chicago. A talk between the +two had much to do with directing Mrs. Lamb's thought into historical +lines, and led to her publishing, some seventeen years later, her +_History of New York_, and to her assuming, in 1883, the editorship of +the _Magazine of American History_. Mary L. Booth used to tell very +amusingly how she had once met Samuel G. Goodrich, then famous as +"Peter Parley," at the little house in Twentieth Street, and how +disappointed she had been in listening to his talk and not finding it +as impressive as it should have been as coming from the author and +editor of more than one hundred and fifty volumes. This incident +occurred within a year or two of "Peter Parley's" death. + +That popular writer of juvenile tales, Alice Haven, was also a visitor +of the Cary sisters. Her early life had been spent in Philadelphia, +where she had been married to J.C. Neal, but after his death she had +removed to New York and made her home there. She was very much +interested in the work of St. Luke's Hospital, which was not a great +distance away, and often came to talk with Phoebe Cary about that +institution. Miss Cary herself was interested in it because of her +regard for its founder, Dr. William Augustus Muhlenberg, who had +written a hymn that was a great favorite of hers, _I Would Not Live +Alway_. Dr. Muhlenberg was the rector of the Church of the Holy +Communion, and in 1846 on St. Luke's Day after his sermon he suggested +to his congregation that of the collection that was about to be taken +half should be put aside as the commencement of a fund which should be +used to found an institution for the care of the sick poor. The fund +started that day with thirty dollars, and that was the beginning of +St. Luke's Hospital. It was not a great while before the actual +hospital work was begun in a building at 330 Sixth Avenue, near +Twentieth Street, and there had a home until the completion of that at +Fifth Avenue and Fifty-fourth Street, where it remained until those +quarters were outgrown, and in 1896 it removed to the new buildings on +Cathedral Heights. + + + + +Chapter XII + +Some of the Writers of To-Day + + +There is little of old-time picturesqueness in the city of New York +to-day, where buildings are too towering, too massive, too thickly +clustered to offer artistic and unique effects. But a stroll about the +homes of the writers of the city invests their rather commonplace +surroundings with more than passing interest. + +In the older part of the town, the section that was all of New York a +hundred years ago and is now the far down-town, there are many +reminders of those friends whose books are on the most easily reached +library shelf. + +To No. 10 West Street, that stands on the river front, Robert Louis +Stevenson was taken by a fellow-voyager in 1879; here he stopped the +first night he spent in America, and of this house he wrote in the +_Amateur Emigrant_. From the waterside just at dusk, catching a dim +outline of the varying housetops is to glimpse some old castle of +feudal times. The lowest building in all this block is No. 10--a +meagre, dingy, two-story structure that has come to be very old. The +doors and windows seem to have been made for some other building, and +to be trying to get back to where they belong, bulging out in the +struggle and making rents in the house-front. + +[Illustration: No. 10 West St.] + +Crossing Battery Park to State Street, at No. 17 is the tall +Chesebrough building that has sprung up on the spot where William +Irving, brother of Washington, lived, and where the Salmagundi wits +gathered sometimes in the evening. Two or three doors farther along is +a survival of old New York which delights the eye, with its porticoes +and oval windows, odd appearing and many-sided; a mansion when wealth +and affluence clustered around the Battery. This is the scene of the +first few chapters of Bunner's _Story of a New York House_. Around the +corner and through the wide doors of the Produce Exchange, at the back +of that building and literally hidden in the middle of the block, is +an old street that seems to have lost its usefulness, a quaint and +curious way full half a century and more behind the times, now bearing +the name of Marketfield Street, but once called Petticoat Lane. It is +no longer a thoroughfare, for in its length of half a block it has +neither beginning nor end. Here is all that is left of the house in +which Julia Ward Howe was born. + +Passing along Broad Street, where Edmund C. Stedman, the poet and +financier, has an office close to Wall Street, you come in a few +minutes to the Custom House. To enter that building is to get lost in +a moment. Pass through the door into a veritable trackless wilderness +of narrow black halls, with rooms that open in the most unexpected +corners, and come after a while to the Debenture Room of old, and to +the window near which Richard Henry Stoddard had his desk for close +upon twenty years. + +Freed from the intricacies of the old building, continue the stroll +up-town, and in Park Row, at No. 29, on the third floor, is found the +old home of the _Commercial Advertiser_, where Jesse Lynch Williams +worked, and wrote _A City Editor's Conscience_, and other stories. A +little way farther on is the _Tribune_ building, where William Winter +has his den, and under the same roof the room where Irving Bacheller +conducted a newspaper syndicate before _Eben Holden_ was thought of. +Then on again a few steps to the _Sun_ building and into the room, +little changed from the time when Charles A. Dana sat there so many +years, and, close by, the reporters' room where Edward W. Townsend +worked, and wrote about _Chimmie Fadden_. There is a winding +staircase, that the uninitiated could never find, leading into the +rooms of the _Evening Sun_, where Richard Harding Davis "reported," +and where he conceived some of the Van Bibber stories. Directly +across the street is the _World_ office, and looking from the +windows, so high up that the city looks like a Lilliputian village, +you have the view that Elizabeth Jordan looked upon during the ten +years she was getting inspiration for the _Tales of a City Room_. Down +narrow Frankfort Street is Franklin Square, the home of _Harper's +Magazine_, where George W. Curtis established his Easy Chair in which +he was enthroned so long, and which is now occupied by William Dean +Howells. + +Cherry Street leads out of Franklin Square direct to Corlear's Hook +Park. Half a hundred feet before that green spot is reached, in a +squalid neighborhood of dirty house-fronts, ragged children, begrimed +men, and slovenly women, there is a house numbered 426, above the door +of which are the words: "I was sick and ye visited Me." Dwellers in +the neighborhood know that this is a hospital for those suffering +from incurable disease, but, beyond this, seem to know very little +about it. It is the home of Rose Hawthorne Lathrop, the daughter of +Nathaniel Hawthorne, who has given up her entire life to brighten many +another. In the same block, but nearer to Scammel Street, which is +next towards the south, Brent's foundry used to be in the days when +Richard Henry Stoddard was an iron-worker and the friend of Bayard +Taylor, whom he visited in Murray Street. + +From this far East Side to Washington Square is quite a distance, but +stop half-way at Police Headquarters and the nearby reporters' +offices. Any one there will be glad to point out the room where Jacob +A. Riis worked so many years and wrote most of _How the Other Half +Lives_, and from which he carried out his ideas for benefiting the +city poor--carried them out so well that President Roosevelt called +him New York's most useful citizen. + +[Illustration: Where "How The Other Half Lives" was written] + +In Washington Square the wanderer has much to think of in the literary +associations recalled by this green garden that has blossomed from a +pauper graveyard, and which has been written of by Howells, Brander +Matthews, Bayard Taylor, Bunner, Henry James, F. Hopkinson Smith, and +almost every writer who has brought New York into fiction. + +[Illustration: 146 Macdougal St.] + +From the square, stroll in any direction for definite reminders. +Towards the south and around into Macdougal Street, at No. 146, there +is a dingy brick house with a trellised portico, where Brander +Matthews and his friends used to dine, and which James L. Ford made +the Garibaldi of his _Bohemia Invaded_. Walk towards the east, past +the site of the University building, and stand at the Greene Street +corner, at No. 21 Washington Place, where Henry James was born. +Towards the west a few steps into Waverly Place, at No. 108, is a +squat red brick house where Richard Harding Davis wrote his newspaper +tales. Across, at the corner, lived George Parsons Lathrop when he +wrote _Behind Time_, and there his wife, Rose Hawthorne Lathrop, wrote +_Along the Shore_. An historic site this house stands on, for it is +where Stoddard and Taylor once lived together. A block to the north is +old-time Clinton Place, which now, for modern convenience, recking +not of memory or of sentiment, has become Eighth Street. There, to the +left of Fifth Avenue, at No. 18, is where Paul du Chaillu wrote _Ivar +the Viking_, and to the right the house opposite, covered from +basement to eaves with green clustering vines, is the home of Richard +Watson Gilder. + +[Illustration: 108 Waverly Place] + +It is only a question now of crossing half a dozen city blocks towards +the east to wander into what was called the Bouwerie Village. Modern +streets and modern improvements have so overridden the village of old +that traces of it are few and difficult to find. Here in this +district many a writer of New York has lived. At Fourth Avenue and +Tenth Street still stands the house, known to all who lived there as +"The Deanery," in which Miss Annie Swift kept boarders, and where the +family of Richard Henry Stoddard lived during the last four years that +Mr. Stoddard held his post in the Custom House. Here Stedman, and +Bayard Taylor, and Howells were visitors, with scores of other +writers; here Mrs. Stoddard wrote _The Morgensons_, and here Stoddard +himself wrote _The King's Bell_, _Melodies and Madrigals_, and other +poems. Not more than a block away, in the house numbered 118, Richard +Grant White had his home when he wrote _The New Gospel of Peace, +According to St. Benjamin_. + +[Illustration: Richard Grant White's Home] + +Around the corner in Third Avenue, at Thirteenth Street, is a tablet +telling of the pear tree that Peter Stuyvesant brought from Holland, +that grew and flourished on the edge of the Stuyvesant orchard for +more than two hundred years. Within a stone's throw of the tree in the +sixties, and while it yet bloomed, Stoddard lived with his friend +Bayard Taylor, and here the _Life of Humboldt_ came from Stoddard's +pen. Around another corner into Fourteenth Street and down a block to +No. 224, Paul du Chaillu had apartments when he wrote _The Land of +the Midnight Sun_; but the tree-filled yard and the vine-covered +cottage next to it, on which the writer's window looked, are buried +beneath a dwelling in the full flush of newness. + +In Fifteenth Street, just past Stuyvesant Park, is a really +picturesque row of tiny houses that must have been there when +Stuyvesant Park was very new indeed. They have balconies enclosed by +iron fretwork, and the first in the row is especially dainty and +attractive, and quite overshadowed by the lofty building that has +grown up beside it. In this out-of-the-way corner the Stoddards lived +for something more than a quarter of a century, and here they died, +the brilliant son first, then Mrs. Stoddard, and finally Richard Henry +Stoddard, in 1903. + +Along the parkside and around the corner to Seventeenth Street, No. +330 was another interesting landmark until, quite lately, it was +swept away. Brander Matthews lived there, and could look across the +square to the gray towers of St. George's while he wrote the _French +Dramatists of the Nineteenth Century_. H.C. Bunner had quarters there +when he wrote _A Woman of Honor_ and other stories of that period, and +Richard Grant White was a long dweller there. + +[Illustration: Where Richard Henry Stoddard Died] + +Northward a few streets, on the south side of Gramercy Park, is the +house of John Bigelow, writer of half a dozen important books, who +fifty years and more ago assisted William Cullen Bryant in the +editorial conduct of the _Evening Post_. Only a few steps away, in +historic Irving Place, the ivy-covered house is where Mrs. Burton +Harrison wrote _Sweet Bells out of Tune_, and on another block farther +to the south the Lotus Club long had its home, the building now given +over to commercial uses. + +[Illustration: Where the Author's Club was organized] + +In the short stretch of Fifteenth Street that leads from Irving Place +to Union Square are two points closely associated with the literature +of the city. One is midway the distance, the prosaic office of a +brewer now, but once the home of the Century Club when Bancroft the +historian was its president. The other is nearer to the square, with a +tall iron fence, and a gateway not at all in keeping with the modern +appearance of the street. Behind the tall fence is a bit of +greensward, and beyond that a house quaintly unusual in appearance, +seeming to shrink from sight in the shadows cast about it. This is +where Richard Watson Gilder at one time lived, where Charles De Kay +organized the Authors' Club, and where the Society of American Artists +was formed. + +[Illustration: Horace Greeley's Home] + +Beyond Union Square there is in Eighteenth Street the house numbered +121 where Brander Matthews lived for fourteen or more years, where he +wrote many of his books, and where was held the first meeting to +organize the American Copyright League. It was Professor Matthews who +gave the dinner at which the unique society known as the Kinsmen came +into being, at the Florence on the same street at number 105,--an +apartment house in which Ellen Glasgow, Elizabeth Bisland, and Edgar +Saltus have made their homes, and in which the widow of Herman +Melville is now living. + +In nearby Nineteenth Street is still standing No. 35, a house where +Horace Greeley lived, with William Allen Butler, the author of +_Nothing to Wear_, for a next-door neighbor. Three blocks farther on +is the big office building where Dr. Josiah Strong wrote most of _Our +Country_, and where Hamilton W. Mabie has a study in the editorial +rooms of _The Outlook_. A few steps farther in Twenty-second Street, +at No. 33, Stephen Crane wrote part of _The Red Badge of Courage_ and +worked on the daily newspapers. Close by in Fifth Avenue is the +publishing house where the critic and essayist, William Crary +Brownell, author of _French Traits_, and other works, spends his +business hours. Around the corner in Twenty-third Street, on the top +floor of another publishing house is the den of the energetic author, +editor, and critic, Jeannette L. Gilder. Across Madison Square, at the +Twenty-fifth Street corner, Edgar Saltus had apartments for some time, +and just off Broadway in Twenty-seventh Street, at No. 26, Edgar +Fawcett wrote _A Mild Barbarian_. + +On up Madison Avenue past Twenty-eighth Street is a brownstone +dwelling with a luxuriantly blooming window garden, where James Lane +Allen lives when he is in town and revises his writings. A few steps +into the next thoroughfare the Little Church Around the Corner +nestles in a populous district, and in the next block, just beyond the +Woman's Hotel, Mrs. Burton Harrison has written many of her books. Two +blocks away, in the _Life_ building, John A. Mitchell, founder of the +paper, spends several working hours of each day. + +Going farther up-town in Park Avenue just beyond Thirty-sixth Street +is a substantial building where Dr. Josiah Gilbert Holland wrote and +where he died. In nearby Thirty-seventh Street hover memories of Parke +Godwin, who married the daughter of William Cullen Bryant, and whose +business and literary interests were closely entwined with those of +his father-in-law. A few steps westward is the solemnly quiet Brick +Presbyterian Church, where Dr. Henry van Dyke preached before he was +called to Princeton. Turning into Forty-sixth Street, note a house +distinguished from its neighbors by a doorway of wrought-iron, where +John A. Mitchell did much of the writing of _Amos Judd_. + +[Illustration: The Beekman Mansion near 52nd St. [Transcriber's +Note: should be 51st St.] East River] + +Across town, where Fifty-first Street touches the East River, is a +street so short and so out-of-the-way that few New Yorkers have ever +heard of it. It is called Beekman Place, and in it survives the memory +of the old Beekman house which stood near by, and which in the days of +the Revolution was used as a British headquarters. It was in the +Beekman house that Nathan Hale rested his last night on earth. Here in +this quiet spot Henry Harland lived in the eighties, when he was +employed in the Register's Office and got up at two o'clock many and +many a morning to write (under the name of Sidney Luska) some of his +earlier books. The windows of his home looked out upon a beautiful and +unusual city scene. Any one going now to where Fifty-first Street ends +at an embankment high above the river may see it just as he saw it +then--see the waves splashing on a rocky shore, with neither docks nor +wharves nor factories to interfere; see a broad river; see a green +island with stone turreted towers, and in the distance, forming a +background, the irregular sky-line of the Brooklyn borough shore. + +Farther up-town to Central Park, and there on the south side is the +mammoth apartment house close to Sixth Avenue, where William Dean +Howells did much of his work; and on beyond the avenue, at No. 150, +Kate Douglas Wiggin evolved _Penelope's Experiences_. Still on +up-town, following the easterly side of the park, in Sixty-fourth +Street, at No. 16, Carl Schurz lived, and in Seventy-seventh Street is +the square house of stone where Paul Leicester Ford met such a fearful +death. + +Crossing Central Park to the far west side, the journeyer comes to +wide, tree-lined West End Avenue, and there at Ninety-third Street, +almost upon the shores of the Hudson River, in a locality of beautiful +homes, Brander Matthews, author of _Vignettes of Manhattan_ and _A +Confident To-morrow_, lives and works. Returning down-town on the +westerly side of the city, stop just beyond Amsterdam Avenue and +Eighty-sixth Street before a house, colonial as to its doors and +windows at least, the home of that distinguished naval officer and +writer, Captain A.T. Mahan. On the nearest corner is the church where +funeral services were held over Paul du Chaillu when his body was +brought back from Russia. Down a few streets, John Denison Champlin, +author and encyclopaedist, has his home, in a yellow apartment house, +and half a block along Seventy-eighth Street stands the terra cotta +building occupied by Stedman before he moved to Bronxville. Down to +Sixty-fifth Street now, a dozen steps or more west of Central Park, +Edgar Fawcett conceived _A Romance of Old New York_, before going to +Europe for an indefinite stay. + +[Illustration: Lawrence Hutton's House] + +In Thirty-fourth Street, midway between Seventh and Eighth Avenues, +visit the solid little brick house, with green shutters and an air of +dignity that proclaims it of another time. This has stood for three +quarters of a century and at one time had no neighbors. There, until +1898, when he went to Princeton, Lawrence Hutton gathered his +collection of objects artistic from all parts of the world; there he +kept his assortment of death masks; there he wrote and entertained his +friends, authors, actors, men of different callings. + +[Illustration: De Kay's House--London Terrace] + +Let the last step be to that reminder of old Chelsea Village, in +Twenty-third Street beyond Ninth Avenue, called London Terrace. The +Terrace was built when Chelsea was really a village, and exists +to-day long after the village has ceased to have an identity. One +house in the row, No. 413, is particularly interesting, picturesquely +and historically, carrying as its literary association the name of +Charles De Kay, critic and author--a name of to-day and of the past as +well, for he is the grandson of the poet, Joseph Rodman Drake. + + + + +Index + + +A + +_Adventures of Captain Bonneville, The_, 102 + +_Afara_, 139 + +_Age of Reason, The_, 32, 84 + +Aldrich, James, 179 + +Aldrich, Thomas Bailey, 218 + +Allen, James Lane, 247 + +All Souls' Church, 188 + +_Along the Shore_, 238 + +_Amateur Emigrant_, 231 + +_American_, 174 + +American Copyright League, 245 + +_American Game in its Season_, 216 + +_American Monthly Magazine_, 154, 180 + +_American Review_, 158 + +_American Theatre, The_, 70 + +_Amos Judd_, 249 + +_Analectic Magazine_, 96, 112 + +_An Appeal for that Class of Americans Called Africans_, 200 + +"Ancient Club of New York," 110 + +Andre, Major John, 55, 56 + +_Androborus_, 37 + +_Annabel Lee_, 164 + +Apollo dancing rooms, 170 + +_Arcturus_, 178 + +_Ariel in the Cloven Pine_, 206 + +Arnold, Benedict, House of, 56 + +Arnold, George, 215, 216 + +_Arthur Mervyn_, 78 + +Astor House, 172 + +Astor, John Jacob, 102, 123 + +Astor Place Opera House, 160 + +_Astoria_, 102 + +_Atlantic Monthly_, 133 + +Audubon, John James, 189-195 + +Authors' Club, 245 + + +B + +Bacheller, Irving, 234 + +_Backwoodsman, The_, 113 + +Bancroft, George, 103, 186 + +Barlow, Joel, 84 + +Barstow, Elizabeth, 204 + +Bartlett, John R., 172-180 + +Bartlett's Book Shop, 172-180 + +_Battle Pieces_, 224 + +_Beauties of Santa Cruz_, 52 + +Beekman House, The, 249 + +_Behind Time_, 238 + +_Bells, The_, 164 + +_Ben Bolt_, 162 + +Benjamin, Park, 175, 179, 180 + +_Biblical Researches in Palestine_, 151 + +Bigelow, John, 183, 243 + +Bisland, Elizabeth, 246 + +Bleecker, Eliza, 47-51 + +Bleecker Street, 83 + +Bloomingdale Village, 145, 157 + +_Bohemia Invaded_, 238 + +Boker, George H., 207 + +Bonneville, Captain, 102 + +Bonneville, Madame, 82, 83 + +Books of New Amsterdam, 7 + +Booth, Mary L., 227 + +Botta, Mrs., 197, 199, 200 + +Botta, Vincenzo, 198 + +Bouwerie Village, 19, 22 + +Bowling Green, 8 + +Bradford's printing press, 27 + +Bradford, William, 38, 57 + +Bradford, William, tomb of, 25-29 + +_Bravo, The_, 134 + +Bread-and-Cheese Club, 131-133 + +Brevoort, Henry, 110 + +Brickmaking in New Amsterdam, 3 + +Briggs, Charles F., 159, 160 + +_British Prison Ship, The_, 53 + +Broad Street, 7, 13, 31 + +Broadway, 67 + +_Broadway Journal_, 159 + +Brook Farm, 205 + +Brown, Charles Brockden, 77, 78-80 + +Browne, George Farrar, 217 + +Brownell, William Crary, 247 + +Bryant, William Cullen, 132, 133, 174, 180-188 + +Bunner, H.C., 243 + +Burns's Coffee House, 99 + +Burr, Aaron, 63, 190 + +Burton, William E., 150 + +Butler, William Allen, 246 + + +C + +_Calaynos_, 207 + +Cary, Alice, 222-228 + +Cary, Phoebe, 222-228 + +_Cecil Dreeme_, 219 + +Century Club, 186, 244 + +_Champion of Freedom, The_, 130 + +Champlin, John Denison, 252 + +Cheever, George B, 151 + +Chelsea Square, 195, 196 + +Chelsea Village, 145, 195, 196 + +Child, Lydia M., 199, 200 + +_Chimmie Fadden_, 234 + +Church Farm, 33 + +Church in the Fort, 15, 20 + +Church of the Holy Communion, 229 + +_City Editor's Conscience, A_, 234 + +City Hall, First, 8 + +City Hall in Wall Street, 31 + +City Hall Park, 48, 67, 108 + +City Hall (Present), 75, 109 + +City Hotel, 100, 128 + +City Plan Commission, 109, 110 + +Clapp, Henry, 213 + +Clapp's _Almanac_, John, 27-29 + +_Clara Howard_, 78 + +_Clari, the Maid of Milan_, 74 + +Clark, Lewis Gaylord, 175-178 + +Clark, Willis Gaylord, 176 + +Clarke, McDonald, 136-144 + +_Clermont, The_, 109 + +Clinton Hall, 159, 160 + +Cobbett, William, 85 + +Colden, Cadwallader, 38, 39, 42, 43 + +Collect Pond, 22, 48 + +Columbia College, 81, 116, 174 + +Columbia University, 43 + +_Columbiad_, 84 + +_Commentaries on American Law_, 81 + +_Commercial Advertiser_, 65, 183 + +_Common Sense_, 82 + +Common, The, 48, 49, 67 + +_Complaint of New Netherland, The_, 10 + +_Confident To-morrow, A_, 251 + +_Conquest of Grenada_, 97 + +Contoit's Garden, 170 + +Cooke, George Frederick, 71, 72 + +Cooper, James Fenimore, 125-136, 184 + +Cooper, Susan Fenimore, 127 + +Cornbury, Lord, 34, 35 + +Corporation Library, 31 + +_Corsair, The_, 155 + +Cosby, Governor, 39-43 + +Cozzens, Frederick S., 175, 178 + +Crane, Stephen, 246 + +_Criterion, The_, 222 + +"Croaker Papers," 119 + +Croegers, Tryntie, 15 + +_Cromwell_, 216 + +_Culprit Fay, The_, 121 + +Curtis, George William, 235 + + +D + +Dana, Charles A., 234 + +Dana, Richard Henry, 130, 131 + +Da Ponte, Lorenzo, 141, 142 + +Davis, Richard Harding, 234, 238 + +_Deacon Giles's Distillery_, 151 + +Dearman, 104 + +_Death of the Flowers_, 181 + +Debtors' Prison, 49-51 + +DeKay, Charles, 245, 254 + +De Lancey, Etienne, 99 + +Dennie, Joseph, 77, 79, 80 + +De Sille, Anna, 18 + +De Sille, Nicasius, 11-19 + +_Deukalion_, 208 + +Dewey, Orville, 185 + +_Diamond Lens, The_, 220 + +_Dictionary of Americanisms_, 172 + +_Diverting History of John Bull and Brother Jonathan_, 112 + +_Don Giovanni_, 141 + +Downing, Major Jack, 150, 201 + +Drake, Joseph Rodman, 103, 115-124 + +Draper, Dr. John W., 220, 221 + +Du Chaillu, Paul, 239, 241, 252 + +Duke's Farm, 32 + +Dunlap, William, 70, 71, 77 + +_Dutchman's Fireside, The_, 113 + +Duyckinck, Evert A., 175, 178, 179 + +Duyckinck, George, 179 + +Dyde's, 111 + + +E + +East River Park, 101 + +_Eben Holden_, 234 + +_Edgar Huntley_, 78 + +Elgin Botanical Garden, 81 + +_Elixir of Moonshine_, 139 + +Embury, Emma C., 144 + +_Encyclopaedia of American Literature_, 179 + +English, Thomas Dunn, 162, 164 + +_Eureka_, 163 + +_Evening Mirror_, 152, 156-159 + +_Evening Post_, 181, 182 + +Exchange Street, 13 + + +F + +Fairlie, Mary, 94 + +_Fall of the House of Usher_, 150 + +_Fanny_, 118 + +_Fashion and Famine_, 202 + +Fawcett, Edgar, 247, 253 + +Fay, Theodore S., 154 + +Federal Hall, 62 + +_Federalist_, 62 + +Fire of 1776, 54 + +First almanac printed, 27-29 + +First City Hall, 8 + +First free school, 109 + +First library, 31 + +First museum, 171 + +First newspaper, 38, 57 + +First newspaper row, 57 + +First night watch, 25 + +First poet of New Amsterdam, 4-10 + +First Poorhouse, 49 + +First printing press, 27 + +First street lighting, 25 + +First Tammany Hall, 71 + +First telegraphic message, 194 + +Fitzroy, Lord Augustus, 41, 42 + +_Footnotes_, 204 + +Fordham, 162-166 + +Ford, James L., 238 + +Ford, Paul Leicester, 251 + +Forester, Frank, 216 + +_Forest Life_, 199 + +Forrest-Macready Riots, 160 + +Francis, Dr. J.W., 132 + +Frankfort Street, 45, 46 + +_French Dramatists of the Nineteenth Century_, 243 + +_French Traits_, 247 + +Freneau, Philip, 47, 51-66 + +Friendly Club, 77 + +Fuller, Margaret, 202, 203 + + +G + +Gaine, Hugh, 58-60 + +_Gazetteer_, Rivington's, 56 + +General Theological Seminary, 195, 196 + +_Gentleman's Magazine, The_, 150, 152 + +Gilder, Jeannette L., 247 + +Gilder, Richard Watson, 239, 245 + +_Give Me the Old_, 151 + +Glasgow, Ellen, 246 + +_Gleanings in Europe_, 135 + +_Glimpses of Home Life_, 143 + +_Godey's Lady's Book_, 161 + +Godwin, Parke, 182, 183, 186, 248 + +Golden Hill, 48, 87, 88 + +Golden Hill Inn, 88 + +Goodrich, Samuel G., 227 + +Gowans, William, 149 + +Gracie's house, 103 + +_Graham's Magazine_, 152 + +_Grayslaer_, 175 + +Greeley, Horace, 202, 205, 206, 224, 246 + +Greenwich Village, 81-83, 145, 146 + +Griswold, Rufus W., 207 + +Grove Street, 84 + + +H + +Hackett, James H., 114 + +Halleck, Fitz-Greene, 103, 115-124, 132, 138, 142 + +Hall of Records, 49-51 + +Halpine, Charles Graham, 220 + +Hamilton, Alexander, 62, 191 + +Hamilton Grange, 62 + +_Handbook of Universal Literature_, 198 + +Hanover Square, 57-59, 61 + +Harland, Henry, 250 + +Harlem, 145 + +Harrison, Mrs. Burton, 244, 248 + +"Harry Franco," 159, 174 + +Haven, Alice, 228 + +Hell Gate, 101 + +Herbert, Henry W., 216, 217 + +Hildreth, Richard, 224 + +Hillhouse, James A., 128, 181 + +_History of Intellectual Development in Europe_, 221 + +_History of New York_, 227 + +_History of the City of New York_, 227 + +_History of the Five Nations_, 39 + +_History, Rise, and Progress of the Arts of Design in +the United States_, 70 + +_Hobomok_, 199 + +Hodgkinson, Thomas Hawkins, 120 + +Hoffman, Charles Fenno, 173-176, 206 + +Hoffman, Josiah Ogden, 95 + +Hoffman, Matilda, 95, 174 + +Holland, Dr. Josiah Gilbert, 248 + +_Home Journal_, 157 + +_Home, Sweet Home_, 74 + +_Homeward Bound_, 136 + +Hone, Philip, 132, 183 + +Hoogh Street, 10 + +_Horse and Horsemanship in North America, The_, 216 + +_Horseshoe Robinson_, 149 + +Hosack, Dr. David, 81 + +_House of Night, The_, 52 + +Houses of New Amsterdam, 2, 3 + +Howe, Julia Ward, 233 + +Howells, William Dean, 218, 235, 251 + +_How the Other Half Lives_, 236 + +Hudson Park, 146-148 + +Huguenot Church, 32 + +Hunter, Governor Robert, 35-38 + +Hutton, Lawrence, 253 + + +I + +_Idle Man, The_, 131 + +Idlewild, 156 + +_Imp of the Perverse, The_, 158 + +Independent Columbian Hotel, 94 + +Irving, Ebenezer, 100 + +Irving, John T., 104 + +Irving, Peter, 92, 94, 109, 110 + +Irvington, 104 + +Irving, Washington, 87-105, 109-112, 115, 174 + +Irving, Washington, birthplace of, 89 + +Irving, William, 93, 107, 108, 110-112, 231 + +Italian Opera House, 141 + +_Ivar the Viking_, 239 + +_I Would Not Live Alway_, 228 + + +J + +James, Henry, 238 + +_Jane Talbot_, 78 + +Jans Farm, Annetje, 32, 33 + +_Jersey_, The prison ship, 53 + +_John Brent_, 219 + +_John Bull in America_, 114 + +John Street Theatre, 55, 56, 90, 91 + +Jordan, Elizabeth, 235 + +_Judgment, The_, 128 + +Jumel, Madame, 190 + +Jumel Mansion, 190 + + +K + +Kean, Edmund, 137 + +Kemble, Gouverneur, 110, 111, 113 + +Kennedy, John P., 148, 149 + +Kent, James, 77, 80, 81 + +Kidd, Captain William, 24 + +Kilmaster's School, 91 + +Kimball, Richard, 207 + +_King's Bell_, 240 + +King's College, 43 + +King's Farm, 32 + +Kinsmen, The, 246 + +Kip, Hendrick, 12, 18 + +Kirkland, Caroline M., 198, 199 + +Kissing Bridge, 22 + +Knickerbocker Days, Close of the, 167-172 + +_Knickerbocker History of New York_, 94 + +_Knickerbocker_ Magazine, 174, 176, 177 + +Knight, Madame Sarah, 33-35 + +_Koningsmarke_, 113 + +_Kubleh_, 206 + + +L + +Lafayette Theatre, 134 + +Lamb, Martha J., 227 + +La Montagne, Dr., 12 + +_Land of the Midnight Sun, The_, 242 + +_Last of the Mohicans, The_, 134 + +Lathrop, George Parsons, 238 + +Lathrop, Rose Hawthorne, 236, 238 + +Lawson, James, 120 + +"Lay Preacher, The," 79 + +_Legend of Sleepy Hollow_, 103 + +Leggett, William, 182 + +Leisler, Jacob, 46 + +_Letters from under a Bridge_, 155 + +Lewis, Estella, 201, 202 + +_Liberty Bell, The_, 151 + +_Life and Voyages of Columbus_, 97 + +_Life of Horace Greeley_, 224 + +_Life of Humboldt_, 241 + +_Life of Joseph Brant, The_, 184 + +_Life of Mahomet_, 105 + +_Life of Red Jacket, The_, 184 + +_Life of Washington_, 105 + +_Lion of the West, The_, 114 + +_Literary Gazette_, 179 + +_Literary Magazine and American Register, The_, 80 + +_Literary World, The_, 179 + +_Literati of New York, The_, 161 + +London Terrace, 253 + +Longfellow, Henry W., 97 + +Longworth, David, 93 + +Loockermans, Govert, 12 + +Ludlow, Fitz-Hugh, 215 + +Luska, Sidney, 250 + +Lynch, Anne C., 197-204 + + +M + +Mabie, Hamilton W., 246 + +Mad Poet, The, 136-144 + +_Magazine of American History_, 227 + +Mahan, Captain A.T., 252 + +"Major Jack Downing," 150, 201 + +_Marco Bozzaris_, 124, 181 + +Martling's Tavern, 71 + +_Mary Derwent_, 202 + +Masonic Hall, 170 + +Matthews, Brander, 238, 243, 245, 246, 251 + +McLelland, Isaac, 152 + +_Melodies and Madrigals_, 240 + +Melville, Herman, 224-226 + +Mercantile Library, 160 + +Messinger, Robert H., 151 + +Middle Dutch Church, 55, 171 + +_Mild Barbarian, A_, 247 + +Miller, John, 29, 30 + +_Minerva, The_, 65 + +Minniesland, 189, 194 + +_Mirror, The_, 130 + +Mitchell, John A., 248, 249 + +Mitchill, Dr. Samuel, 94 + +Moore, Bishop Benjamin, 196 + +Moore, Clement C., 195, 196 + +Moreau, Jean Victor, 61 + +_Morgensons, The_, 240 + +_Morning Chronicle_, 92, 109 + +Morris, George P., 130, 138, 153, 154, 156, 157 + +Morris House, 123, 190 + +Morse, Samuel F.B., 194 + +Muhlenberg, Dr. William Augustus, 228 + +Murray Hill, 60 + +Murray, Lindley, 60, 61 + +Murray, Mrs., 60 + +_My Faith Looks up to Thee_, 140 + + +N + +_Narrative of Arthur Gordon Pym_, 150 + +_National Anti-Slavery Standard_, 199 + +_National Gazette_, 64 + +_Nearer My Home_, 223 + +New Amsterdam, 2-6 + +_New England Magazine_, 179 + +_New Gospel of Peace, The_, 241 + +_New Mirror_, 162 + +Newspaper, First, 38, 57 + +Newspaper Row, The first, 57 + +New York before the Civil War, 209-212 + +_New York Gazette_, 38, 58 + +_New York Gazetteer_, 58 + +New York in 1830, 167-172 + +_New York Journal_, 58 + +_New York Mercury_, 58 + +_New York Mirror_, 153-156 + +_New York Quarterly Review_, 149 + +_New York Review and Athenaeum_, 181 + +Niblo's Garden, 171 + +Night watch, The first, 25 + +Noah, Mordecai M., 138 + +_Nothing to Wear_, 246 + +_Nozze di Figaro_, 141 + + +O + +O'Brien, Fitz-James, 220, 221 + +Odellville, 145 + +_Old Oaken Bucket, The_, 130 + +_Old Sexton, The_, 180 + +"Old Tom's," 118, 119 + +_Oliver Goldsmith_, 105 + +O'Reilly, Miles, 220 + +_Ormond_, 78 + +Osgood, Frances Sargent, 203, 204 + +_Our Country_, 246 + +_Our New World_, 180 + +_Outlook, The_, 246 + + +P + +Paine, Thomas, 82-86 + +Paine, Thomas, Grave of, 85, 86 + +Paine, Thomas, House of, 83, 84 + +Palmer, Ray, 139, 140 + +Park Row, 68 + +Park Theatre, 68, 72, 75, 77, 171 + +Parton, James, 224 + +Paulding, James Kirke, 90, 93, 103, 107-114 + +_Paul Felton_, 131 + +Payne, John Howard, 72-75, 97 + +_Penelope's Experiences_, 251 + +Percival, James G., 132, 181 + +"Peter Parley," 227 + +Petticoat Lane, 233 + +Pfaff's, 213-218 + +_Philosophy of Composition_, 161 + +_Picture of New York_, 94 + +_Pilot, The_, 128 + +Pine Street, 32, 75, 76 + +_Pioneers, The_, 128 + +Poe, Edgar Allan, 145-166, 200-204 + +Poe, Virginia, 149, 157, 162, 164 + +_Poems of the Orient_, 208 + +Poet, First, of New Netherland, 4-10 + +_Poets and Poetry of America_, 207 + +Poorhouse, First, 49 + +_Portfolio, The_, 79 + +_Powhatan_, 151 + +_Prairie, The_, 134 + +_Praise of New Netherland, The_, 10 + +_Precaution_, 126 + +_Prose Writers of America_, 207 + +_Putnam's Magazine_, 159 + + +Q + +Queen's Farm, 32 + + +R + +_Raven, The_, 158, 161, 202 + +_Red Badge of Courage, The_, 246 + +_Red Rover, The_, 134 + +Renwick, Jane, 96, 104 + +Renwick, Professor James, 96, 132 + +Revolution, New York during the, 54-56 + +Reynold's Ale House, 117-119 + +Richmond Hill, 63 + +Riis, Jacob A., 236 + +Ripley, George, 205 + +_Rip Van Winkle_, 97 + +Rivington, James, 58, 59 + +Robinson, Edward, 151 + +_Romance of Old New York, A_, 253 + + +S + +St. George's Chapel, 90 + +St. John's Burying-Ground, 147, 148, 150 + +St. John's Park, 125, 126 + +_St. Leger_, 207 + +St. Luke's Hospital, 228, 229 + +St. Mark's Church, 22, 23 + +St. Patrick's Church, 142 + +St. Paul's Chapel, 62, 108 + +_Salmagundi_, 41, 93 + +_Salmagundi's_ Cockloft Hall, 111 + +Saltus, Edgar, 246, 247 + +Sands, Robert C, 133, 181 + +_Saturday Press_, 214, 218 + +Schurz, Carl, 251 + +Scudder's Museum, 171 + +Second City Hall, 12 + +Selyns, Henricus, 20-24 + +Shakespeare Tavern, 120 + +"Sign of the Bible and Crown," 58 + +_Sinless Child, The_, 200 + +_Sketches in Switzerland_, 135 + +Smith, Rev. Eli, 151 + +Smith, Dr. Elihu Hubbard, 76-79 + +Smith, Elizabeth Oakes, 201 + +Smith, Seba, 150 + +Smith, William, 43, 44 + +Society Library, 31 + +Society of American Artists, 245 + +_Southern Literary Messenger_, 148 + +_Sparkling and Bright_, 173 + +_Sparrowgrass Papers_, 178 + +_Spy, The_, 126, 134 + +Stadt Huys, 8 + +Stedman, Edmund C., 218, 233, 253 + +Steendam, Jacob, 4-10 + +Stephens, Ann S., 202 + +Stephens, John L., 175-177 + +Stevenson, Robert Louis, 230, 231 + +Stoddard, Richard Henry, 204-207, 233, 236, 238, 240-242 + +Stoddard, Mrs. Richard Henry, 240, 242 + +Stone Street, 9 + +Stone, William L., 175, 183, 184 + +_Story of a New York House, The_, 232 + +Streets first lighted, 25 + +Strong, Dr. Josiah, 246 + +Stuyvesant, Judith, 11 + +Stuyvesant, Peter, 1, 11, 12, 19 + +_Stylus, The_, 152 + +_Sunday Times and Messenger_, 138 + +Sunnyside, 104 + +_Swallow Barn_, 149 + +_Sweet Bells Out of Tune_, 244 + + +T + +_Tales and Sketches of a Cosmopolite_, 120 + +_Tales of a City Room_, 235 + +_Tales of a Country Schoolmaster_, 182 + +_Tales of the Good Woman_, 114 + +_Talisman_ Magazine, 181 + +_Talisman, The_, 133 + +Tammany Hall, First, 71 + +Taylor, Bayard, 198, 204-208, 218, 238, 241 + +Temple, Charlotte, 118 + +Temple Street, 118 + +Thames Street, 99 + +_Thistle Finch, The_, 10 + +Thomson, Mortimer, 215 + +Tienhoven's Street, 76 + +_Tom Thornton_, 131 + +_Town and Country_, 157 + +Townsend, Edward W., 234 + +Trinity Church, 26, 32 + +Tuckerman, Henry T., 221, 222 + +_Typee_, 226 + + +U + +_Ulalume_, 165 + +_United States and England_, 112 + +_Universe, The_, 165 + + +V + +Van Brugh Street, 57 + +Van Cortlandt, Oloff, 12 + +_Vanderlyn_, 175 + +Van Dyke, Henry, 248 + +_Vanity Fair_, 215, 218 + +Van Tassel house, 103 + +Vauxhall, 171 + +Verplanck, Gulian C., 133, 142, 181, 186 + +_Views Afoot_, 205 + +_Vignettes of Manhattan_, 251 + +_Visit of St. Nicholas_, 197 + +_Voyages of the Companions of Columbus_, 98 + + +W + +Wallace, William Ross, 151 + +Wall Street, 6 + +Wall, The city, 5 + +Ward, Artemus, 217 + +Washington, George, 62, 64 + +Washington Hall, 131 + +_Water Witch, The_, 134 + +Webster, Noah, 65 + +_Weekly Post-Boy_, 58 + +_Westward Ho!_, 114 + +Whitehall, 8 + +White, Richard Grant, 241, 243 + +Whitman, Walt, 218 + +_Wieland_, 78 + +Wiggin, Kate Douglas, 251 + +_Wild Scenes in Forest and Prairie_, 175 + +Wiley, the publisher, 130 + +Williams, Jesse Lynch, 234 + +William Street, 88 + +Willis, Nathaniel P., 138, 154-157, 162 + +Windust's, 111, 137, 138 + +_Winter in the West, A_, 175 + +Winter, William, 218, 234 + +Winthrop, Theodore, 219, 220 + +_Wolfert's Roost_, 103, 104 + +_Woman of Honor, The_, 243 + +_Woodman, Spare that Tree_, 154 + +Woodworth, Samuel, 129, 130, 142, 153, 154 + + +Y + +Yorkville, 145 + +"Young American Roscius," 73 + + +Z + +Zenger, Peter, 38, 40 + + + + +_BELLES-LETTRES_ + + +Browning, Poet and Man + +A Survey. By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY, author of "The Rossettis," +"William Morris," etc. + +_8o. With 25 illustrations in photogravure and some text +illustrations. Net, $3.50._ + +_LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations +in half-tone. $2.50._ + +"It is written with taste and judgment.... The book is exactly what it +ought to be, and will lead many to an appreciation of Browning who +have hitherto looked at the bulk of his writings with disgust.... It +is beautifully illustrated, and the paper and typography are superb. +It is an edition that every admirer of Browning should possess, being +worthy in every way of the poet."--_Chicago Evening Post._ + + +Tennyson, His Homes, his Friends, and his Work. + +By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY, author of "The Rossettis," "William Morris," +etc. + +_8o. With 18 illustrations in photogravure and some text +illustrations. Net, $3.50._ + +_LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations +in half-tone, $2.50._ + +"The multitude of admirers of Tennyson in the United States will mark +this beautiful volume as very satisfactory. The text is clear, terse, +and intelligent, and the matter admirably arranged, while the +mechanical work is faultless, with art work especially marked for +excellence."--_Chicago Inter-Ocean._ + +_G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS_ + +_New York_ _London_ + + + + +_BELLES-LETTRES_ + + +William Morris, Poet, Craftsman, Socialist + +By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY, author of "The Rossettis," "Robert +Browning," "Tennyson," etc. + +_8o. Fully illustrated, uniform with "The Rossettis," "Browning," +etc. Net, $3.50. By mail, $3.75._ + +William Morris, of active, varied, and interesting life, has been the +subject of several biographies, written from different points of view. +Nevertheless, there is need for an account that gathers together the +chief facts of the life in a condensed form, and connects them with +comment and criticism of an informing character. Miss Cary has +emphasized the essential unity of purpose underlying the numerous and +diverse pursuits in which Morris was engaged, and has sought to +distinguish the peculiar and enduring qualities by which his genius +was marked. + + +The Rossettis, Dante Gabriel and Christina + +By ELISABETH LUTHER CARY + +_With 27 illustrations in photogravure and some text illustrations. +Net, $3.50._ + +_LIBRARY EDITION. With photogravure frontispiece and 16 illustrations +in half-tone, $2.50._ + +"The story of this life has been told by Mr. Hall Caine, Mr. William +Sharp, Mr. Watts-Dunton, and Mr. William Rossetti, his brother, but +never quite so well as by Miss Cary, who, thoroughly conversant with +all the material which their writings furnish, has turned it to better +advantage than they were capable of from their personal relation to +its perplexing subject."--_Mail and Express._ + +_G.P. 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